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diff --git a/old/69184-0.txt b/old/69184-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 654f498..0000000 --- a/old/69184-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8717 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Western Australia, by May -Vivienne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels in Western Australia - being a description of the various cities and towns, goldfields, - and agricultural districts of that state - -Author: May Vivienne - -Release Date: October 19, 2022 [eBook #69184] - -Language: English - -Produced by: MWS and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive/American - Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN -AUSTRALIA *** - - - - - - -TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - - - -TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - -Some Press Opinions of the First Edition - -_The Daily Chronicle_: “This book is a pleasant and interesting one; it -tells what somebody really saw and felt, not what somebody thought the -proper thing to say. The average man will find May Vivienne a delightful -and exhilarating guide to the still only half-understood pleasures and -resources of Western Australia.” - -_The Empire Review_: “It contains much first-hand information, clearly -given, concerning the cities, goldfields, and agricultural districts -of Western Australia. It is well illustrated, and will be found a most -useful work of reference.” - -_The Financial Times_: “Among the several books published dealing -with Western Australia, we know of few, if any, which are at once so -entertaining and so instructive as this volume. Any one who desires -to obtain in a most pleasant way a good general knowledge of this -distant colony could scarcely do better than purchase this book. As a -mere record of travel, apart from its special interest as dealing with -a gold-producing colony, it is well worth reading, and it contains a -profusion of interesting illustrations.” - -_The Pall Mall Gazette_: “Miss Vivienne knows her Westralia up and down; -she takes us to farms and timber estates; she has visited the goldfields -more than once, inspected all the chief mines, pegged a claim with her -own hand, and pluckily traversed the pioneer fringe of civilisation. -Her delightful journeys, which (with admirable illustrations) take us -over the whole country, reveal its astounding promise, which has already -largely become performance.” - - - - -[Illustration: _John Forrest_] - - - - - TRAVELS IN - WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - BEING A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS - CITIES AND TOWNS, GOLDFIELDS, AND - AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS - OF THAT STATE - - BY - MAY VIVIENNE - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS - - [Illustration] - - LONDON - WILLIAM HEINEMANN - 1902 - - _First Edition, May 1901_ - _Second Edition, January 1902_ - - _All rights reserved_ - - - - - “_He Masters whose Spirit Masters_” - - DEDICATED TO - THE RIGHT HON. SIR JOHN FORREST - P.C., K.C.M.G., G.C.M.G. - EX-PREMIER OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA - AND - MINISTER FOR FEDERAL DEFENCE - IN THE COMMONWEALTH - OF - UNITED AUSTRALIA - - “_Steer thou with good strong hand and wary eye, oh Helmsman_” - - - - -_AUTHOR’S NOTE_ - - -_Some readers may be disposed to question the accuracy of my statements -regarding the mines, and the actual wealth in gold of the State. I can -assure them that these statements are absolutely devoid of exaggeration, -and capable of being easily verified._ - -_This is true also of what is said respecting timber, fruits, and -agricultural produce._ - -_Finally, my hope in issuing this volume is that it may induce people not -only to visit but to settle in Western Australia, and so share in the -benefits offered by its prolific tracts._ - - _M. V._ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - - Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little - Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old Colonists—Travelling - Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land - Regulations—King George’s Sound Pp. 1-14 - - CHAPTER II - - Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount - Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely - Wildflowers Pp. 15-28 - - CHAPTER III - - Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation - Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free” Pp. 29-40 - - CHAPTER IV - - Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady - Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park - Races Pp. 41-46 - - CHAPTER V - - The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South - Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight Pp. 49-69 - - CHAPTER VI - - Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The - Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s - Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle Pp. 70-83 - - CHAPTER VII - - Rottnest—Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The - Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour Pp. 84-89 - - CHAPTER VIII - - Guildford—Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John - Forrest—Darling Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby - Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields Pp. 90-105 - - CHAPTER IX - - Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native - Murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old - Residents Pp. 106-117 - - CHAPTER X - - Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A - Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great Forest Pp. 118-123 - - CHAPTER XI - - Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All - aboard”—Karridale—Touring the Forest—King Karri—The Sand - Patch Pp. 124-136 - - CHAPTER XII - - Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape Leeuwin Pp. 137-147 - - CHAPTER XIII - - Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The - Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The - Show Pp. 148-158 - - CHAPTER XIV - - Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking - on Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato - Ground—Bayley’s Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great - Boulder Find—The Londonderry Pp. 159-175 - - CHAPTER XV - - Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting - a Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward Mine—Bonnie - Vale—Londonderry—Nearly Lost—King Solomon’s Mine—Hampton - Plains Pp. 176-195 - - CHAPTER XVI - - The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial - Treasures Pp. 196-203 - - CHAPTER XVII - - Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. - Kaufman—Early Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View Consols - and Great Boulder Pp. 204-223 - - CHAPTER XVIII - - The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder - Perseverance—The Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting - the Rock—British Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our - own Zeb. Lane—Kalgoorlie Again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the - Goldfields Pp. 224-236 - - CHAPTER XIX - - Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father - Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong Pp. 237-245 - - CHAPTER XX - - Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in the - Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and - Cake—Native Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat - of the Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh - Water Pp. 246-256 - - CHAPTER XXI - - A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold - Everywhere—A Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! - Murrin!—A Welcome Surprise—Western Australian Mount - Morgans—Golden Hills—Blackfellows on the Trail—The Lagoon Pp. 257-268 - - CHAPTER XXII - - Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass - Widowers—More Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle - Nugget—Euro Mine—Hospitality in the Bush Pp. 269-279 - - CHAPTER XXIII - - Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More Nuggets—Gold - Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the Fair Sex—Saturday - Life—Alas, poor Prospectors! Pp. 280-291 - - CHAPTER XXIV - - Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount Sir - Samuel—While the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across the - Country—The “Back-blocks”—Camping Out—Arrival at Nannine—Bed - Once More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak Hill—The Gold - Patch—An Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome Pp. 292-312 - - CHAPTER XXV - - Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet - Flowers Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The - Mirage—Jolly Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The - Morning Star—Windsor Castle Pp. 313-324 - - CHAPTER XXVI - - Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The - Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis Pp. 325-344 - - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - _Page_ - - _The Right Hon. Sir John Forrest_ _Frontispiece_ - - _Bird’s-eye View of Albany_ 1 - - _The_ “Omrah” _at Albany_ 1 - - _A Part of Kendinup Station_ 5 - - _Civilised Aborigines at Kendinup Station_ 11 - - _The Residency, Albany_ 13 - - _The Homestead, Kendinup Station_ 17 - - _Hauling Logs at the Mills_ 19 - - _Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills_ 23 - - _York_ 25 - - _Moirs’ Buildings_ 29 - - _Swan River, Perth_ 29 - - _Hay Street, Perth_ 31 - - _Perth Railway Station_ 33 - - _Melville Water_ 35 - - _Perth Water_ 37 - - _Mount Eliza and Swan River_ 43 - - _St. George’s Terrace_ 47 - - _City of Perth_ 53 - - _Aboriginal Camp_ 55 - - _Driving in Perth Park, at the Summit_ 59 - - _Gathering Wildflowers_ 63 - - _South Perth from the Banks of the Swan_ 67 - - _Fremantle Pier_ 70 - - _Freshwater Bay, Claremont_ 73 - - _North Fremantle_ 77 - - _High Street, Fremantle_ 81 - - _Government House, Perth_ 87 - - _Hon. H. J. Saunders_ 91 - - _Government Bore, near Mundaring_ 93 - - _Lunatic Asylum, Western Australia_ 99 - - _Paper Bark Tree_ 106 - - _Lady Forrest_ 109 - - _Bunbury_ 115 - - _Blackwood River_ 118 - - _Davies’ Karridale Timber Station_ 129 - - _Felling the Giant Karri_ 132 - - _The Sand Patch_ 133 - - _Cave_ 139 - - _Lighthouse_ 145 - - _Newcastle_ 149 - - _Avon River_ 157 - - _Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie_ 159 - - _Teams Returned to Southern Cross from Coolgardie_ 163 - - _Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross_ 166 - - _Bayley’s Reward Mine—Underlay Shaft_ 169 - - _Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897_ 176 - - _Early Days, Coolgardie_ 177 - - _Water Condenser—Filling the Water-bag_ 183 - - _Burbanks Grand Junction Mine_ 187 - - _Vale of Coolgardie Mine_ 188 - - _Jubilee at Red Hill Mine_ 191 - - _Golden Butterfly Nugget_ 196 - - _The Main Shaft. Butterfly Leases_ 197 - - _The Miners’ Holiday_ 201 - - _Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898_ 204 - - _Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie_ 207 - - _Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days_ 208 - - _Great Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols_ 213 - - _Overlooking the Great Boulder_ 215 - - _Hannan’s Star Mine_ 217 - - _The Ivanhoe Mine_ 219 - - _Mr. Zebina Lane_ 221 - - _Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine_ 226 - - _Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine_ 227 - - _Mr. Frank L. Gardner_ 231 - - _Hannan’s Public Crushing Company_ 233 - - _Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House_ 234 - - _Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna_ 237 - - _Deep Lead, Kanowna_ 240 - - _Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna_ 243 - - _Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow_ 246 - - _Part of Lady Shenton Battery_ 248 - - _Messrs. A. Forrest and J. Dunn on a Prospecting Tour_ 251 - - _Merton’s Find, Mertondale_ 257 - - _Mr. Alick Forrest Inspecting Dunn’s Shaft near Mount Morgans_ 261 - - _Westralian Mount Morgans Mine_ 265 - - _Mine at Laverton_ 269 - - _Miners’ Camp, Laverton_ 273 - - _Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora_ 280 - - _Camels at Diorite King_ 285 - - _Auction Sale, Goldfields (Tin Hotel)_ 287 - - _Off by Coach to Lawlers_ 292 - - _Lake Way Gold Mine_ 293 - - _Kangaroo_ 297 - - _A Well near Lake Way_ 300 - - _Lubra and Pickaninny_ 301 - - _Dry-blowing in the Golden West_ 307 - - _Mine at Cue_ 313 - - _Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine_ 315 - - _Colonel North’s Expedition to Mount Magnet_ 319 - - _Donkey Team, Mount Magnet_ 323 - - _Marine Terrace, Geraldton_ 327 - - _Four Generations of the Western Australian Native_ 334 - - _Aborigines with Spears_ 338 - - _Distant View of Fremantle_ 341 - - - - -[Illustration: Bird’s-Eye View of Albany] - - - - -CHAPTER I - - Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little - Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old Colonists—Travelling - Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land - Regulations—King George’s Sound. - - -[Illustration: The _Omrah_ at Albany] - -Having travelled all over Tasmania, Queensland, New South Wales, -Victoria, and South Australia (now United Australia), I one day made up -my mind to set out for the land of gold, Western Australia, that has -created such a _furore_ in these last few years. Accordingly I took -my passage from Sydney in the mail-steamer _Omrah_ and, after a very -charming voyage on board that splendid vessel, landed at Albany. It was a -lovely day, and the first things that pleasantly greeted the passengers -on stepping from the tug-boat to the wharf were various small boys with -huge bunches of the exquisite-smelling boronia, of which I had often -heard. Pretty little Albany looked charming. The day was really perfect -in its loveliness; the country round looked like an exquisite emerald -robe fringed with pearl and sapphire, the grand blue mountains in the -distance, the opal sea, with its white-winged yachts and various sailing -vessels lying at anchor in beautiful Princess Royal Harbour; the blue -sky above, with here and there a tiny white cloud like a dove carrying -a message to heaven; the matchless wild flowers springing around in -profusion, and the scent of the sweet boronia wafting on the breeze from -the gullies, where it grows in such luxuriance that one wonders no scent -farm has been started to distil the exquisite perfume, made the drive -taken by most of us before lunch most delightful. The peacefulness of -this charming place was broken only by the arrival of the great steamers, -with their crowds of passengers, who always went ashore for an hour or -so, some of them to take the train _en route_ to Perth, Fremantle, or the -goldfields; the others, after driving, lunching, or dining, as time will -allow, at the Freemasons’ Hotel (where I put up for a week), returning to -the steamer to continue their passage “home,” as all we Australians call -dear mother England. - -After an excellent lunch at the above-named hotel we set out to view the -surroundings of Albany. - -On that day everything really looked so beautiful that one might -believe Nature to have put on her most attractive garb for us, as if to -say, “Why go from here?” Driving round the Marine Drive to Middleton -Beach, we thought nothing could be lovelier than the view to which no -attraction seemed wanting. The calm and stillness were broken only by a -few other tourists, also feasting their eyes on this scene of beauty. -It is a five-mile drive to Middleton Beach. The beach forms a circle -of some three miles. Mount Clarence is in the background; in front is -the land-locked Princess Royal Harbour, with its narrow gateway for the -passage of ships; tiny bays surround it, and the picturesque islands -look like so many lions guarding the portal. This is a favourite place -for picnics; family parties are often here in numbers; the water is -so limpid and shallow that children can dabble about to their hearts’ -content; the sand is beautifully white and firm, and many little spades -and buckets are employed in making sandhouses. Afternoon tea-parties are -also quite an institution; it is considered quite “the thing” to bring a -party of friends to tea, and, if you do not wish to have it _al fresco_, -there is the pretty Esplanade Hotel, where everything, from afternoon -teas to wedding breakfasts, is served up in most excellent fashion. - -Another beauteous spot near Albany is Little Grove. The day I went the -steamer was full, it being a holiday. Launches were plying from jetty -to jetty, taking parties of picnickers to the pretty shady groves. A -regatta was also being held, and many people were watching it. It was -a pretty sight to see the contest of the boats as they sailed merrily -round the lovely bay. The weather was exquisite, but a strong breeze -was blowing; good seamanship was called into play in the sailing of the -yachts and robust muscular exertion in the rowing events. Albany may well -be called the sanatorium of the colony. The air is so invigorating that, -after being there only a few days, one feels almost a new being. Any one -suffering from brain fag or exhaustion cannot do better than go to Albany -for a holiday. One need only look at the faces of the children, see their -healthy looks, bright eyes and general activity, to know that they have -been born and brought up amongst healthy surroundings. One feature of the -children is their beautiful hair; many possess such luxuriant tresses -that one feels inclined to envy the lovely colour and beauty of them, and -to wish one also had been born in Albany. - -The town possesses some very good buildings, and, although not of very -large extent, is well laid out. It lies between the Mounts Clarence and -Melville, and the many dwellings on the hillsides give it a most quaint -and charming appearance. The principal places are the Town Hall, Post -Office, Customs House Office, and large sheds, also some fine stores. -There are still some very old structures standing, for Albany is an old -town, Princess Royal Harbour having been called after the daughter of -King George of England. The old-fashioned church of St. John has been -beautified by the hand of time and adorned with a mantle of ivy green. -Many stone cottages show the primitive way of building that prevailed in -1836. The gaol, built about that year, and in much the same style, still -exists, but the stocks then in use have almost disappeared. A very old -woman to whom I was speaking told me she remembered three women at a time -being put into them. Other evidences of days gone by are immense heaps of -bleached whalebones lying about in some parts. Albany was once a fishing -village frequented by traders of all countries, who did a large trade in -whale-oil, seals, &c., and exchanged for these things not only coin but -also potatoes and fruit. There were evidently stirring times in Albany in -those early days, and it was not an uncommon thing to see nine whales at -a time disporting themselves in the harbour. The huge mail-steamers must -have frightened them all away, for a whale is now a rare visitor. I spent -a pleasant hour at the house of Mr. J. McKenzie, which in the ’fifties -was the only hotel in Albany, and was known as The Thistle. It was also -the general concert-hall and theatre. There were no theatrical companies -in Western Australia in those days, and the small community used to get -up its own entertainments without aid from outside. Among the relics -cherished by Mr. McKenzie is the speaking-trumpet used by his father, a -master mariner, an imposing-looking instrument of brass, something like a -cornet. A magnificent double-pearl shell, with five or six lovely pearls -embedded in its sides, must be of great value. - -One of the most prominent early colonists was Captain John Hassell, -who, after calling two or three times in his brig the _Belinda_, being -wrecked, and undergoing many hardships, was still so much attracted by -the splendid locality that he resolved to settle here, took another -trip to Sydney, N.S.W., and returned with his family in 1838, bringing -with him 700 sheep, 12 horses, 20 head of cattle, poultry, 15 men, also -rations for twelve months. Captain Hassell went first to Strawberry -Hill and afterwards to Kendinup Station, where a fine mansion stands, -which now belongs to his son, John Hassell. It comprises 41,144 acres of -freehold and 122,000 acres of leasehold property; the area is 225 square -miles, and there are 320 miles of fencing on it. 6000 sheep are on the -run, and one magnificent flock of imported sheep cost Mr. Hassell £4000. -The samples of wool I saw from this station are really splendid. There -is a plentiful supply of water, one well being 80 feet deep, and nearly -always full. There are 30 civilised natives on the station, photographs -of five of whom are here given. - -[Illustration: A PART OF KENDINUP STATION] - -Albany has been connected with the capital by rail since 1886; previous -to that time the overland journey of more than 300 miles was made by -mail-coach or private conveyance over a very lonely road. The first -railway here was negotiated by the late Mr. Anthony Hordern, of Sydney, -N.S.W., and constructed under the land-grant system by a company of -which he was director-chairman. Mr. Hordern took up large grants of land -near Albany, having a high opinion of its agricultural possibilities. -He had also large schemes for the future of the south-west part of the -colony, and intended to build agricultural colleges to teach people how -to use the splendid soil to advantage. Unfortunately Mr. Hordern did not -live to complete the schemes; he died at sea, and a splendid monument -to his memory tops the incline of the principal street in Albany. The -late Premier, Sir John Forrest, said he remembered taking a journey from -Albany to Perth in 1880, when the coach broke down at a distance of some -40 or 50 miles from the town, and it was necessary to get a team and -travel by it another 40 or 50 miles; also many other difficulties were -encountered before arriving at Perth, and the journey took a week. My -own experiences when I visited this colony in 1882 were worse than the -Premier’s. I landed in Albany with a party of four others; we hired two -conveyances and four horses, paying £50 for them, provisioned for ten -days, and set off through the sand and bush. As it took us sixteen days -to perform the journey, as very little food could be obtained anywhere, -and as we arrived at our journey’s end with only two horses, the other -two having died on the way, the pleasures of that expedition can better -be imagined than described. - -The garden lands which lie in the valleys close to the town are being -largely cultivated, and selectors from England and elsewhere are -frequently arriving with the intention of taking up selections, and -undertaking dairy farming and market gardening. The new travelling dairy -instituted by the Government will be a great boon; it will have all the -latest appliances, and the plant will be erected in places where the -people have not facilities for making butter, &c., and persons who do not -understand the process can be instructed. The yield from this district -is one ton of hay, or fifteen bushels of wheat, per acre. This quantity -has been exceeded at Toobrunup Lake, where the yield was twenty bushels -per acre. Further proof of the fertility of the soil is given by the fact -that cabbages grown at Mr. Horton’s selection weighed from 20 to 30 lb., -and grew to maturity in thirteen weeks. Forty-two tons of cabbage came -off three acres of land last year, and brought £10 per ton. Potatoes from -the farm at Strawberry Hill, cultivated 60 years ago by Sir R. Spencer, -weigh over a pound each, so that at dinner you are not asked to take -potatoes but a part of one. These potatoes are really stupendous; one -that I had in my hand I measured, and found it to be nearly a foot long, -and wide in proportion! Seventy tons of these gigantic tubers, grown -without the aid of any fertilisers, were taken from nine acres. Turnips -flourish in the same way and grow to the weight of 3 and 5 lb. It is not -“some pumpkins,” as they say in America, but “some turnips,” as they say -in Australia. Onions also grow to an immense size, often weighing over 6 -lb. each. - -Albany and its surroundings are really as near perfection as it is -possible for any place to be. It has a heavenly summer climate, the -coolest in Australia. A day is considered hot if the mercury rises above -80°. During the week of the terrible heat-wave, when in other parts -of the colony the temperature was from 110° to 115°, the record heat -here was 95°. There are never by any chance hot winds. The grass is -always green and flowers are always blooming. With its miles of harbour -frontage, its lovely valleys nestling at the foot of its grand hills, its -beautiful river, and the natural drainage which keeps the little town -always clean and healthy, no wonder it should be regarded as the very -choicest of health resorts. The rainfall is abundant, and the district -seldom suffers from frost. The winters are very mild, snow has only been -known to fall two or three times, and then was so novel a sight as to -excite wonder in all the native-born Albanians. Last winter, however, Mr. -Knight, of Wattle Farm, carted into town a huge snowball that had been -rolled on his farm in the Porongurup ranges, which then were covered with -snow, and afforded the grandest spectacle ever seen here. At Mr. Knight’s -farm and orchard some magnificent fruit is grown, the apples being -sometimes over a pound in weight. I shall never forget the lovely sight -of that orchard. It is on an elevation of 1200 feet above the sea-level, -and commands a view of the rich and fertile valleys around. The soil is -of a rich deep chocolate colour, and the country is stated by experts to -be volcanic. - -Besides being endowed with beauty and richness of soil, Albany is likely -to become famous as a coal- and gold-producing district, for coal has -recently been found, and a company which will make further researches -formed. Timber also is abundant, and copper has recently been found at -the Phillips River, about 180 miles away. Thousands of people who have -gone direct to the goldfields have no idea of the beauty of this place. -They only think of Western Australia as a place in which, to look for -gold, and when that has been obtained in sufficiency, to be left behind -as quickly as possible. Tinned fruits, meat and vegetables have until -recently been the staple food of dwellers in the goldfields; but, as -population increases and fertile lands are taken up and cultivated, -a sufficiency of fresh fruits for all requirements will probably be -produced before long. - -[Illustration: CIVILISED ABORIGINALS AT KENDINUP STATION] - -The land regulations of Western Australia are so favourable to the -colonist that, if well known in England and upon the continent of Europe, -they would probably attract many families of the vine-growing, artisan, -and small capitalist classes. Any person over the age of eighteen, who -is the head of a family, can take up an area of 160 acres of land for a -free or homestead farm. A deposit of £1 is required as a guarantee of -_bona fides_. The applicant must live on the land for six months of each -year, and within two years must spend £30 in clearing or cropping, or put -down two acres of garden, orchard or vineyard; within five years, one -quarter of the selection must be fenced and one-eighth cropped; within -seven years the whole area must be fenced, and one quarter cultivated. -The selector then becomes entitled to his certificate of title, after -having paid for it and the cost of survey. Direct purchase can be made, -if desired, of from 100 to 5000 acres. The land is valued at 10_s._ per -acre, of which 10 per cent. is payable on application and the balance by -four quarterly instalments. Applicants must fence in the course of three -years and spend 5_s._ per acre within seven years, and then can acquire -their certificates of title. Grazing farms can be taken up at a rental of -2½_d._ per acre. Pastoral leases, or grass rights for grazing purposes, -can be got for the nominal rental of 2_s._ 6_d._ per 1000 acres per -annum and upwards. Garden lots, from 5 up to 50 acres, can be obtained. -In this case the land is valued at 20_s._ per acre, and the plot must -be fenced within three years, one-tenth to be put under cultivation as -a _bona fide_ garden. The terms are 10 per cent. deposit on application -and the balance in six half-yearly instalments. In addition to all this, -the Government have done yet more to induce land settlements by offering -assistance from the Agricultural Bank, created by the late Premier, Sir -John Forrest, for the benefit of all who desire to make a home in Western -Australia. This bank will lend money on freeholds at conditional purchase -(already fenced) to the amount of £800. An application fee of 1 per cent. -on the loan is demanded, and this amount covers cost of inspection -and mortgage. The amount lent is repayable by the borrower in thirty -years; for the first five years the interest is payable half-yearly. At -the sixth year a sinking fund of 4 per cent. commences, and continues -until the end of the thirty years, when the debt is wiped out. There are -Government land agents in nearly every agricultural town of the colony, -and a would-be selector arriving and communicating with the Government -agent receives all the assistance he wishes in making his selection. The -present population of Albany is about 3500. - -[Illustration: The Residency, Albany] - -A fine Quarantine Station has lately been built at a cost of £10,000. The -forts are very interesting. No doubt, in the future Albany will become -an important Naval station. An Imperial Officer of the Royal Artillery -is in command, there is a small garrison, and some murderous-looking -guns are in readiness to give a warm reception to any enemy who may -appear. Before leaving Albany I accepted an invitation to take a trip -out into the Sound. This was named by Vancouver, in 1791, King George’s -Sound, after the then reigning sovereign of England. It is sheltered by -magnificent granite rocks or headlands, and the anchorage is perfect, -for the islands of Breaksea, Michaelmas, and Haul Off Rock—an immense -block of stone, almost like a mediæval fortress—break the ocean swell. -The beauties of King George’s Sound have been well known since the first -navigators sought refuge in its quiet waters, and its maritime value can -never cease. - -I said “Good-bye” with much regret to the many friends made during my -short stay in this little town, where even the Railway Reserve is a -perfect garden of Arum lilies. These peerless flowers seem to grow wild, -and their stately heads are to be seen everywhere. The scent of the -boronia is wafted on the breeze from afar; you hear the merry laughter -of boating-parties and of children who come along with their hands full -of gorgeous wild flowers. One of the townsfolk brought me a lovely -collection of orchids, of which there are many varieties to be found -hereabout; another friend brought me a collection of Western Australia -curiosities, shells, corals, &c.; indeed I was overwhelmed with kindness -by the warm-hearted people, and could not but be sorry to leave a place -where I had been received with so much kindness. - - - - -[Illustration: A Chopping Contest.] - - - - -CHAPTER II - - Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount - Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely Wildflowers. - - -Leaving Albany under more auspicious circumstances this time than when I -had left it by road, I took my seat in the train, my destination being -Denmark Mills, where I went to see a great timber station and Jarrah -Forest. On arrival at Torbay Junction, 9 miles from Albany, I left the -mail train and took the timber train, as the company, who own the Denmark -Timber Mills, have a private line running to that place; once seated -I was soon carried into the timber country. We passed through country -covered with boronia and other sweet flowers, and with Sheoak, Karri, -and Jarrah trees. We crossed the Hay river and came to Denmark Mill and -township. We were now in the thick of the Karri country, covered with -immense trees. The site of the township, covering 150 acres, has, of -course, been cleared, and there are many comfortable wooden and slab -cottages with nice gardens attached, giving a plentiful supply of fruit -and vegetables; as well as a good store, where everything appertaining -to housekeeping can be obtained. No liquor is allowed to be sold at the -mill on account of the dangerous nature of the occupation, consequently -this is a model township. There are several coffee-houses, and, in spite -of their enforced sobriety, the men seem to be very jolly and happy. An -enormous stack of timber was ready to be shipped to Colombo, and the men -were at work cutting more, as the enormous demand for Western Australian -wood keeps the workmen busy night and day, working in relays. The line -train wound round the hills in picturesque fashion, until we came to -a valley which looked more picturesque still, but rather dangerous to -cross in a timber-train. Here the flying fox or aerial tram is used to -bridge the steep part and to carry small timber. I was glad I did not -venture down into the valley, for I was afterwards told that it was not -an infrequent occurrence for the timber-trucks, and occasionally the -engine also, to leave the line, and as the trucks are of the roughest -description, consisting merely of four wheels and a platform, and are -loaded with immense logs, the passenger can only travel on the engine, -or on the “dummy,” which is a special truck placed immediately behind -the engine to keep it from being damaged in case some huge log, weighing -perhaps 20 tons, should slide forward in the course of a descent. It is -difficult to give an idea of the size of the gigantic Karri-trees here. -One which I saw was quite hollow, and a bullock team drove right through -it with perfect ease. In returning to the town I saw another large -quantity of battens or pickets waiting to be shipped for London to fence -two large cemeteries. Enormous fires are always burning in the town to -consume the great heaps of waste from the mills. A pile, about 120 feet -high, was waiting to be burned, and it did seem a pity that good wood -should be reduced to ashes merely to get it out of the way. A scheme for -shipping the refuse of the mills to America for conversion into paper has -lately been mooted. - -[Illustration: THE HOMESTEAD, KENDINUP STATION] - -[Illustration: Hauling Logs at the Mills] - -The Karri-trees, grow to a height of 300 feet, with a circumference of -from 20 to 30 feet. From one Karri-tree alone 100 tons of timber have -been cut. Karri is also called _Eucalyptus collossea_ or _diversicolor_, -the latter name denoting the difference between its leaves and those -of other eucalypti. The timber is impervious to damp. I was shown a -block cut from a log that had been buried forty-six years in moist -earth, and it was perfectly sound. For mining, harbour works, railways -and street-paving the wood is unequalled, and is now greatly used in -different parts of London, notably in paving Charing Cross, where traffic -goes on at the rate of 402 omnibuses every hour; and in Paris the Rue -Lafayette and Rue Château d’Eau are also paved with our famous Australian -woods. This particular wood is preferred for street-paving because it is -safer for horse traffic than other kinds; observations taken by Colonel -Hayward, late City Engineer of London, have shown that horses might be -expected to travel over 446 miles of Karri road without accident. On -Westminster Bridge, London (south side), the Jarrah paving has lasted -for seven years. This wood is also being used all over the world for -jetty piles; some enormous ones, 90 feet in length, were waiting at the -train-shed to go to Albany, where thirty vessels are under charter to -take the timber away to South Africa, South America, India, &c. There -is another very large karri district which I mean to visit; I must not -therefore exhaust all I have to say about karri timber here, but pass -on, leaving behind Denmark Mill with its 20,000 acres of forest, where -the manager told me over two million loads of timber were waiting to be -cut down. Mr. Millar also owns very large jarrah forests, the Wagerup of -35,000 acres, and the Mornington, 55,000 acres, and employs upon them a -very large staff of workmen. - -Returning next day to Torbay Junction, I caught the mail-train and -continued my travels, passing thousands of acres of land waiting for -selectors. Stopping at Mount Barker, 28 miles from Torbay, I visited the -homestead of Mr. Somnes, the land around which was first cultivated over -40 years ago by Mr. Somnes, senior, now 90 years of age, and many of the -fruit-trees, though planted so long ago, are still bearing good crops of -fruit. Over 55 acres of fruit-trees of different kinds, bearing lovely -fruit, testify to the excellence of the soil. Two thousand apple-trees -seem to be specially prolific. In another part of the Mount Barker -district, Mr. Miller’s estate, comprising more than 5000 acres, has a -fine orchard of over 6000 fruit-trees of all descriptions. Two other -orchards, not quite so large but with much exquisite fruit, are not -far off, and the old homestead of St. Werbergs, where the late Colonel -Warburton resided, is a place of much interest. In addition to fruit, the -necessary potato and onion are being cultivated, and in some cases yield -very largely per acre. It was my intention to stay at Katanning, as I -wished to see the much-talked-of orchard and vineyard of the Hon. F. H. -Piesse. - -It being night when I arrived, I could not see what the place was like, -but in the morning light I found it a most charming little village. -A great deal of land has recently been taken up by selectors; during -last year over 1500 applications were made for homesteads and farms -on conditional purchase, and many more for pastoral leases and town -and suburban lots. The harvest returns here are very satisfactory, 15 -bushels of wheat to the acre being the average. Many farmers are coming -over from the other colonies to select land for farms, as well as people -from England and other countries. The Katanning area contains 100,000 -acres, so there is plenty of room for many farms and orchards. Assisted -passages are granted from England to intending farmers and agriculturists -and their families, also to single women and widows. They can come to -this colony by only paying £8 5_s._ towards their passages. These people -must, however, be approved by the Agent-General, Hon. Henry Bruce Lefroy, -in London (15 Victoria Street, Westminster, S.W.), from whose clerks -intending passengers can get any necessary information by writing to ask -for it. On arrival in Western Australia the new-comer will be afforded -every assistance by the Government land-agents who are stationed in the -principal towns. - -The orchards and vineyards of Mr. Piesse are really wonderful. There are -65 acres of fruit-trees, bearing all kinds of fruit of exquisite flavour, -some of the pears weighing over 2 lb. each, and the peaches, apricots, -and apples of equal size and beauty. The apples grown here are famed for -their size, sweetness, and flavour. - -There were acres and acres of vines loaded with large and luscious -grapes, the purple ones, with their lovely bloom, offering a picture to -the eye as well as refreshment to the palate. The cost of clearing land -in this district is only from 35s. to £3 per acre, so that any one with -small capital could soon have an orchard or farm of their own. The day is -evidently not far distant when Western Australia will not only produce -sufficient for all her own requirements, but, being nearer the European -markets by several days’ journey than the other colonies, will be able -to supply the markets of the outside world with her fruits, especially -grapes, the soil in some parts being particularly suitable for vine -culture. Her goldfields may in time be exhausted, her forests may be -converted into timber, but the soil will always remain and vines will -always grow as long as the sun shines to mature the grapes for wine to -make glad the heart of man. Almond-trees also grow wonderfully well, and -tons of almonds are sent every year from Katanning to different parts of -the colonies. - -One very great feature connected with fruit farming in Western Australia -is that there are no fruit pests in the colony, no phylloxera, no codlin -moth, and no nasty little fruit-fly to spoil the growth of things. Every -care is taken that nothing of the kind shall be brought here from other -places, all fruit being rigorously examined by experts before being -passed by the Customs. - -Seated behind a fast pair of Australian brumbys—(these horses, called by -the natives Warrigals, are very hardy animals, and are well known to go -longer distances without nourishment of any sort than any others of their -kind; when proper food is unobtainable, they can subsist on the driest -of spinifex grass, or scrub, and what would kill other horses does not -seem materially to injure them)—I had a lovely drive over Mr. Piesse’s -properties. One splendid field of wheat, 300 acres in extent, was a great -sight. As far as the eye could reach this field, with its magnificent -crop, waved before the breeze. We had passed the orchard with its acres -of fruit-trees bending beneath the weight of fruit. Then we came to the -vines with their rich and luscious grapes, then—a complete and charming -change of scene—to the cornfield. On the far side of the field two -waggons, each drawn by nine horses and laden with a tremendous load of -produce of the glorious earth, were wending their way to the mill, which -was seen in the distance on the other side. A forest of trees, white gum, -York gum, and raspberry wood, sent a subtle perfume through the air. -Opening a large white double gate (one of many), we drove right through -the pretty cornfield, and one could imagine the feelings of Bobby Burns -when he wrote his exquisite poem, “When the corn is waving, Annie dear.” -Returning on the other side of the field, a pretty view is seen of the -village of Katanning bathed in the golden sunlight. - -We passed the model farm of Mr. Stanbury and came to Mr. Piesse’s -splendid and most interesting mill: all the very newest machinery for -turning the ripe corn into flour is here. I thought of our ancestors -crushing wheat between stones, and watched the beautiful white stuff -coming down the huge cylinders, automatically filling the corn sacks -and coming to a dead stop when full, with no assistance from the human -hand, while the man who had placed the sack on the cylinder stood by -sewing up with twine the last one filled. The click came to notify that -a bag was full; it was taken off, and another put on to go through the -same process. Tons of refuse from the wheat were being thrown out, and -on my asking what was done with it, Mr. Piesse said that it was given to -the pigs. This splendid mill was built in 1891, but, in consequence of -the rush to goldfields which broke out in 1893, lay idle for nearly two -years, all the produce being wanted for chaff, which could not be cut -quick enough for the demand. - -A great deal of land-clearing is going on in the different selections, -and it is interesting to see the forest devil or tree-puller at work. -This operates by means of a chain placed round the tree and a lever -worked by a man; in about 15 minutes a great tree will come up root and -branch, and fall never to rise again. - -[Illustration: Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills] - -Resuming my journey next morning, I once more sped on by train through -the flower-scented country, passing Wagin, Narrogin, famous for oranges; -Pingelly, and Beverley (all rich agricultural country). Here we partook -of a very good repast, this being the place where many Perth passengers -break the journey when going to Albany, or _vice versâ_; then, after a -further run of 20 miles, we stopped at the pretty little town of York, on -the banks of the Avon river. It nestles in a valley almost surrounded -by green hills, and as I walked across the bridge, built of jarrah-wood, -that spans the pretty river, I thought I had never seen a more pastoral -or a prettier place. The town is in two parts, one each side of the Avon, -which is crossed by three bridges. The pale yellow fields of corn, the -pretty houses on the hillsides, the beautiful cattle grazing, and the -fruit growing in profusion in the various gardens and orchards, make a -charming picture. Quantities of sandal-wood grow close to the town, and -constitute a valuable industry; the jam-wood also thrives well, and the -scent of it makes one imagine oneself in the vicinity of a raspberry-jam -factory. The headquarters of Parker’s Eucalyptus Distillery are here. The -distillery is at Dangin, about 40 miles off, where the beautiful fruits -that grow at York are preserved by the same firm, and are quite tempting -to look at and exquisite to taste. Farming is very advanced in York. -I was shown some wheat from a farm, a portion of a crop that yielded -32 bushels per acre. The farmers employ the very latest improvements -in machinery, and say that, though expensive at first, they find these -cheaper in the end, the expense of working the land being greatly reduced -by using the newest strippers, &c. It speaks well for the productive -capacity of the district that 24,000 bushels of splendid wheat were -waiting, at the Empire Milling Company’s storehouse, to be turned into -flour. - -Driving from York to Greenhills, through the Avon valley, I passed Mr. -Jesse Scott’s magnificent farm. Imagine a cornfield, or, I should say, a -succession of cornfields, of 450 acres, on some parts of which the oats -had attained the height of 7 feet. These portions of the fields would -yield 60 bushels to the acre, and the whole 450 acres would average 35 -bushels per acre. It was, indeed, a magnificent sight. On other parts of -Mr. Scott’s property rye, buffalo, and prairie grass were making great -progress, while 12 acres were planted with vines. - -[Illustration: YORK] - -The tanning industry is well represented. I saw splendid samples of plain -and fancy leather when visiting Mr. Hay’s factory; one enormous side -weighed 39 pounds, kangaroo skins are also tanned and make a beautiful -shiny leather. Kangaroo meat is eaten here, although beef and mutton are -plentiful. Many people seem to prefer “Roo” steak. I confess I was rather -surprised at breakfast to hear the waiter, in reading the menu, mention -the latter dish. I did not test it, but at dinner tried kangaroo-tail -soup, and found it really excellent. The much-esteemed Roman Catholic -priest, Father Gibney, brother of Bishop Gibney, lives in York, and also -has a pretty little place (which is his hobby) called Springfield, about -three miles out. The Rev. Father has hundreds of fruit-trees of different -kinds, and quite an orangery. I brought away several branches with eight -or nine oranges on each as mementoes of my very pleasant visit. There -are some good buildings, a fine Post Office, Mechanics’ Institute, -Court-house, and some handsome churches, as well as many good shops. York -is one of the oldest Western Australian towns, and enjoys the distinction -of being the place where the first official execution took place in -1840. The wife of a settler, Mrs. Cook, and her infant, were murdered -by aborigines during the absence of her husband. The murderers escaped -into the Bush, and were only brought to justice through a tribal quarrel -which resulted in some natives betraying them. They were conveyed to the -scene of their crime and hanged in chains, in the presence of a large -gathering of natives. Up to this time there was an impression amongst the -natives that an absence in the bush, long or short, absolved them from -punishment. This execution dispelled any idea of that kind which they may -have entertained, and taught them a wholesome lesson. - -A very well-known person in early times was called the Duke of York. He -used to go between Perth and York in a little cart carrying goods, not -least of which was a keg of rum, the virtues of which would have been -even more warmly appreciated if the old fellow had left it in its natural -state, and not mixed so much _aqua pura_ with it. His descendants have -risen in the world, and in place of the keg of rum of their ancestor have -now bonded stores of large extent. - -On leaving York _en route_ for Perth the train journey was rendered -delightful by the beautiful carpet of wild and many-coloured flowers on -each side of the line. As the train sped past the idea struck me that -these flowers—lovely immortelles, white, pink, and yellow, growing in -countless millions—could be turned to good account. Conversing with a -Westralian (white) native in the train, I find such a thing had never -been thought of, and what could be made a source of wealth by some -energetic people seems here hardly to be noticed. Thousands of crosses, -wreaths, anchors, screens, fans, and other decorations could be made -of these flowers, and would, I am sure, command a ready sale on the -Continent, especially in France, where there is such a love of flowers -for ceremonial purposes. At present, like the boronia, which usually -seems to waste its sweetness on the desert air, they appear to be not -much admired, except by people travelling through the country, who -cannot fail to be impressed, like myself, by their beauty. For perfumery -purposes, the little coffee-coloured boronia must have a great future -before it, as well as the lovely immortelles. My friend in the train -said, “I don’t think they are much good.” He put me in mind of the -soldier, a good many years ago, who, on the defeat of Parses the Persian, -found a bag of shining leather filled with pearls. Not knowing their -value, he threw them away, but kept the leather bag, saying, “What was of -no use could be of no value.” - - - - -[Illustration: Moirs’ Buildings] - - - - -CHAPTER III - - Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation - Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.” - - -And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I remember it -on my last arrival, after my memorable journey across the sand plains, it -was a very sleepy little town. Now it is a handsome and prosperous city, -with noble buildings on all sides, electric light, tramcars, beautiful -parks around it, and yachts dancing on the broad waters of the Swan -river. Perth is beautifully situated, and one cannot fail to be charmed -with its picturesque and lovely surroundings. - -[Illustration: Swan River, Perth] - -Perth on a Spring day presents a charming and animated picture. Boats -and steamers ply across Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other -shore, while black swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much -admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies and trees, -the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above everything its -smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild flowers of every colour, -all help to give charm to the scene. St. George’s Terrace, the principal -fashionable street, is nearly two miles in length and planted with shady -trees. The Council have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the -idea, I suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden fruit -growing along the street will be something novel, but not, perhaps, -financially profitable, since in the hot summer time it will offer rather -a temptation to small boys who may have a leaning towards lemon squash. -Russell Square will, in course of time, be as fine a public ground as -any in Western Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred -there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor of Perth, -assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first trees: the rest -were set by the school children, who had been invited to attend. Many -beautiful Westralian, tropical, and sub-tropical trees will in future -throw their grateful shade over this fine square. - -[Illustration: HAY STREET, PERTH] - -Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in Perth: Moirs’ -Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New South Wales, De Baun’s -Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the new Public Works Offices would -do credit to any city in the world. The Town Hall, which, although -an imposing-looking building, is old, will shortly be removed, the -Government having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is -one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A new Town Hall -will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of the city. The Post Office -is a fine building in the French Renaissance style. Then there are the -Mines Department Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall -for entertainments, and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where in the -hot weather people take their amusements in the open air while smoking -and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is a fine theatre in Hay -Street, and another will shortly be erected in Barrack Street; across -the bridge we come to the Victoria Public Library, a splendid stone -building recently built, with an excellent library of 28,000 books and -pamphlets. The Museum adjoins it, and contains valuable specimens of all -the minerals of the colony, as well as biological and botanical samples. -The Railway Station and Offices form a fine block of buildings, and an -overhead railway is shortly to be started. There are some very large -churches, Trinity Church, St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church, -in connection with which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of -buildings adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, -an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on Sundays a -very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and Convent are near it. Not -far off is the Hospital, which is a credit to Perth, not only on account -of the arrangements, which are excellent, but on account of the kindness, -skilfulness, and attention received by the patients. It is most highly -spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The Royal Mint is a new -and handsome building, recently opened and Western Australia can now coin -its own gold into sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was -formerly done. - -[Illustration: Perth Railway Station] - -Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine yachts -and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one of the oldest -institutions, and has not only a splendid new boathouse, whose -accommodation and appointments excel those of any other on this side of -the continent, but also the newest racing-skiffs procurable and handsome -sailing-boats. The Club also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which -the members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess has -earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” The Royal -Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by the riverside, and the -many white-winged yachts that form the flotilla are a pretty sight when -sailing on the broad bosom of the Swan. - -Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers and colonnade -giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the grounds, though small, -are very beautiful; they slope gently down to the river by a series of -terraces, and contain many rare plants and shrubs. - -The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well laid out, -and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football clubs indulge in -their favourite sport, under the sunny skies and genial air that render -open-air existence so delightful in Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the -river faces the ground. This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club, -whose club-boathouse is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green, -where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first youth take -their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be found there on a fine -afternoon, for the club members are very gallant and always have nice -afternoon tea and its accessories for their lady visitors. The Cricket -Association possess a very fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the -other end of the town, near the Causeway. - -[Illustration: Melville Water] - -It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such remarkable -strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been appreciated. A few years -ago it was nothing but wild bush, and though, of course, the view was -just as good as it is now, few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills -to the top of the Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and -a transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a fence, -and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty summer-houses -have been built; it is five miles in circumference, and on the west side -are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads. The observatory, near -the entrance gate, forms an imposing landmark. Standing at this point -a magnificent panorama is spread before you. The city of Perth lies at -your feet, while far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds -its way to Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in -the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth beneath. Going -along the broad drive you come to the highest pavilion on the summit of -the Mount. Perth Water, with the boat-sheds and their many boats and -yachts, and little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a -jewel below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm Old Men’s -Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road continues on, and we soon -begin to go down the incline, where another still finer view looms in the -distance. Crawley Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at -the foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across the -river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that one cannot bear to -go on, but must pull up the horse and stop for a few minutes, that the -mind may drink in the sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the -other colonies, and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza on a -spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild bush is ablaze -with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. I felt I must stay for -a while and gather some of the beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which -are far more varied than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards -that by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, hope -for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native profusion, many -species have been transplanted from other parts of the colony. Young -eucalyptus and tica folia, trees which are indigenous to the Albany -district, and bear a handsome scarlet flower, have been planted on both -sides of the road, and will in time form an avenue. - -Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, with its -brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its exquisite velvety -softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, with their lemon-centred -foliage; the beautiful snowflake flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow -hibbertia; the pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or -native tulip, fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous -to particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall -never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery dales, -country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching far and wide. -Terraces have been formed, and paths wind their way down the hill to -the lower road. Here and there are rustic seats, where visitors can -rest and enjoy the splendid view, and there are, of course, tea-houses, -where you can enjoy the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other -refreshments. Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants -add to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a -really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen on all -sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the Narrows to the famous -and beautiful Melville Park. In the background, the Darling Ranges loom -grandly; in fact, the view is a magnificent panorama that could never be -justly described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the Park -Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for the improvements made -to this lovely spot in so short a space of time. Perth has now settled -down and become quite a quiet city again, whereas a few years ago, -when the gold fever was at its height, the state of the town was very -different. Then the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was -of nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal topic, and -one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a nugget or some gold dust, -or who had not specimens in hand—received from persons interested, who -expected to make fortunes, and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in -quartz, or of some other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they -were called. - -[Illustration: PERTH WATER] - -Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every stranger -who came to the country had to conform to the country’s laws. The term -“sandgroper” means white native; another term used here is “straight -hair,” given in the early days by the free inhabitants to the convicts, -on account of always having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago -any one walking in the streets of Perth after 10 P.M. took his chance of -being arrested for the night. The constables on their beats invariably -threw out the challenge, “Bond or free?” and unless the person so -challenged could answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z., -he was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known citizen was -challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! Bond or free?” “Free,” -answered the pedestrian. “Your name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good -enough,” said the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of -that name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal of explanation -the minion of the law rather reluctantly let the citizen proceed on his -way. A few yards further along he challenged another man, who gave the -name of “Snowball.” This name was too much for the new policeman, who -remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow go, for who ever -heard of such names before? Explanations, though freely offered, would -not be accepted by the officer, who triumphantly marched a well-known -and reputable citizen to the police-station under the belief that he was -some desperate criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the -prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to go home. -All this is now changed in Western Australia, the only convicts who are -now alive being a few old people whose terms have expired and who are now -inmates of charitable homes. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - - Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady - Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park Races. - - -It was a very pretty drive from Perth to the Darling Range Quarries, -where great quantities of stone for road-making and other purposes -were being turned out. The quarry is situated on the western slopes of -the range, and commands a magnificent view of the whole country to the -sea-board. The proprietor of the now prosperous quarries, Mr. Statham, -gave us a brief history of his enterprise, which began nearly five years -ago. For the first three years, March 26 was for him an unlucky day. -First he was burned out and lost between £300 and £400. In the following -year the same thing occurred, and he was a loser by £1200. The third -time, when March 26 came round, he felt disposed to stop the machinery, -but the day did not pass without accident, for the engineer was blown -up, and had to be taken to the hospital, but recovered in about a month. -Since the third accident Mr. Statham has felt proof against disaster on -March 26. - -Stretching away from here in the direction of Bunbury are over 80,000 -acres of well-matured land waiting for clearance and then cultivation; at -present there is no stock to feed on it, no creatures being seen but a -few wild horses. - -The homestead and vine plantations of Kalayamba, belonging to Mr. -Wiedenbach, are prettily situated on the wooded banks of the Canning -river, and the grapes some of the finest that I have ever seen. Five -years ago Mr. Wiedenbach obtained cuttings at a cost of 2_s._ 6_d._ -each, and from these he grafted six vines, out of that number four grew, -and at the present time the vines from the four cuttings number 500 or -600. The vinery contains 4000 vines. There are 3100 citron-trees, and -over 5000 other fruit-trees, many of them having fruit of phenomenal -size and most exquisite flavour. The oranges, especially the mandarins, -are really splendid. Last year 300 orange-trees yielded over 3000 dozen -oranges. The lemon-trees are almost as good. The climate of Western -Australia is specially suited to the growth of the orange. The most -delicious oranges I have ever tasted grow on the slopes of the Darling -Range, and must be eaten to be appreciated. The apple- and quince-trees -were positively bent to the ground with their lovely burdens; while the -almond-trees were a beautiful sight. - -There is also a magnificent estate situated on the Canning river at -Cannington, called Riverside, and belonging to Mr. W. Brookman, the -well-known mining millionaire of Perth and Kalgoorlie. - -This gentleman’s town house is full of fine furniture and curiosities -brought in part from Europe, among these being a dinner service of 120 -pieces, each of which bears a different pattern of Venetian lace, the -whole set representing every pattern made in Venice since the earliest -manufacture of lace. In the drawing-room are exquisite chairs, the -embroidery of which is the work of a continental sisterhood; vases of -Venetian glass which cost 100 guineas each, Bohemian glass bowls in -amethyst, thickly encrusted with gold; priceless statuettes of Carrara -marble, and elegant Louis Seize cabinets containing rare curios from all -countries, are a few of the contents of this rich room; while on the -polished floor are handsome Brussels squares, on which lie rare skins, -one specimen of a magnificent Polar bear, with glistening teeth, bright -eyes, and perfect head, lying almost life-like. A fine aviary adjoining -the house is full of the twittering of birds and chattering of parrots. - -[Illustration: MOUNT ELIZA AND SWAN RIVER] - -After the wealth and magnificence of the Gold King’s house, it is not -to be wondered at if other homes look plainly furnished, and yet Lady -Forrest’s, although an old-fashioned house, is most pleasant to visit. -The furniture and surroundings are in exquisite taste. The afternoon I -called, the artistic drawing-room looking out into the garden of sweet -flowers was most restful to the eye. Lady Forrest is most kind and -genial, and very much liked by every one. She takes great interest in her -husband’s work, and takes many a worry from him by seeing people herself -who come to interview him. “Sir John is nearly always busy,” said Lady -Forrest pathetically, “I can’t get him to talk to me sometimes.” There -are a great many works of art in the house, especially pictures, some by -Lady Forrest herself and some by well-known artists; many portraits of -Lady Forrest’s ancestors, and also bits of lovely English scenery from -her father, the late Mr. Hammersly’s, old home in England, called Pyrton, -of which she is justly proud. Mr. Hammersly was an English sportsman, and -came to Australia many years ago. Lady Forrest is a Western Australian -born. - -There are many other nice old houses in Perth, notably Mrs. O’Grady -Lefroy’s, at the upper end of St. George’s Terrace, called Cambay. The -house stands back in spacious grounds, and belongs to the family, which -is of old standing in Perth. Mr. H. Maxwell Lefroy in 1843 made an -excursion into the Lake District to the east of York, and his discoveries -have been of great value to the country. Twenty years after, in 1863, -Mr. Lefroy made a more extended exploration. Mr. H. Bruce. Lefroy, -the late genial Minister of Mines, is a Western Australian, but was -educated at Rugby, England. He was Minister of Education in 1897, and -has administered the Department of Mines with great skill, and to the -satisfaction of Parliament and people. - -Next to Mrs. Lefroy’s house is that of the late Mr. Alexander Forrest, in -1900 Mayor of Perth for the third time. Mr. Forrest has also done good -service in the early exploration of the colony, and is now known as the -Cattle King, because he took up immense tracts of land in the various -districts, utilised them for cattle stations, and amassed a large fortune. - -There are two daily newspapers in Perth. The _West Australian_ is edited -and owned by the Hon. J. Hackett, M.L.C. Mr. Hackett is an Irishman who -landed in Melbourne thirty-five years ago. He was a barrister, but shook -off the shackles of the law, came to Western Australia, took up land, and -eventually became proprietor of the _Western Australian_ newspaper. - -The other daily, the _Morning Herald_, belongs to a syndicate. As there -are several weekly papers, and a _Sunday Times_, Perth is well supplied -with newspaper lore. - -The weather being beautifully fine, I one day accepted an invitation -to the races, and behind a spanking pair of horses, and in congenial -company, whirled away to Canning Park. Arriving at the course, after a -pleasant drive, we found fully 3000 people on the picturesque racecourse. -Nature had donned her most inviting garb, the day was beautifully cool, -and the effect of the mantle of green with which the lovely country was -decked was heightened by the shades of the surrounding hills. The vista -from the grand stand was delightful, and everybody was in good spirits -and well pleased. The terrible stiffness which, as a rule, characterises -Perth society, seemed to be thrown off for a time, and the leaders did -not, as they often do, glare at all newcomers as if to say, “How dare -you come here? This is our country; stay away.” Many pleasant afternoon -tea-parties were in evidence, the racing was good, and the band played -excellently. Some very handsome dresses were worn. When we left to return -to Perth I felt quite charmed with the pretty course, and also with -my good luck, for I had won two dozen pairs of gloves and ten golden -sovereigns—quite a run of luck for me. - -[Illustration: ST. GEORGE’S TERRACE] - - - - -CHAPTER V - - The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South - Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight. - - -The new public library and museum in Beaufort Street is a very handsome -building, and well worth visiting. It contains many interesting -collections of birds, beasts, fishes, and other specimens indigenous to -Western Australia. The fossils found in the coastal limestone and in the -carboniferous formations extending from the Irwin to the Gascoyne and -thence to Kimberly are truly wonderful. - -The upper part of a mastodon gives one an idea of the tremendous size -and strength the animal must have had. The casts of the fish-eating -reptiles and saurians are marvellous. Any one going through the museum -and noting the productions of Western Australia, past and present—other -than gold, which many people seem to think is the only thing the colony -can produce—will be considerably surprised. - -The marsupials are, I think, of especial interest, and of these there -is a large and varied collection. These marsupials or pouched animals, -from the tiny crescent wallaby, no larger than a very small rabbit, -the pretty little kangaroo-rat, and the funny spectacled wallaby, to -the rufus or red kangaroo, and the great old-man grey kangaroo, taller -than a big man, and possessed of enormous strength and vitality, are, -according to Mr. Woodward, the curator of the museum, characteristic -only of the Australian region, the only kind of animal at all like them -in the world being the American opossum. Some opossums, however, have no -pouch, but carry their young on their backs. The kangaroos, as I think -all Australians know, always carry the little Joeys snug in their pouch. -And during my travels I have often seen them peeping out of their snug -home. Many different kinds of pretty opossums come next, ranging from -the pigmy flying opossum, little ring-tail opossum, and the odd little -rabbit bandicoot to the pussy-looking black, grey, or white opossum, -whose skin and fur make such warm and comfortable rugs for cold places, -but are not often wanted in the mild climate of Western Australia. One -tiny little mouse-coloured kangaroo-rat, found only in the south of -the colony, is very pretty, and makes a dear little pet; these animals -feed on the nectar of flowers, and when tamed, on bread and honey; they -sleep all day curled up into a ball, but are very lively at night. -Sleepless persons desiring a companion may be glad to note this. The -_Myrmecobius fasciatus_, or banded ant-eater, from Coolgardie, is a most -remarkable-looking creature, as, indeed, its Latin name indicates. - -The splendid collection of Western Australian birds is really surprising; -after seeing it one wonders how some people could say that there are no -birds in Australia. The typical black swan, white swan, and pelican from -the Swan River; the handsome bittern from Herdsman’s Lake, near Perth; -the giant petrel from Fremantle; enormous emus from the Murchison, are -all to be seen here, the last named with some dear little striped fluffy -young ones, the size of goslings. I have often seen these birds when -travelling on the Murchison myself. The ossifrag, a gigantic black-necked -stork from Derby, in the far north; the Australian egret, so often -plundered for ladies’ hats; magnificent sea-eagles; a most interesting -nest of the sparrow-hawk made of twigs and gum-leaves, and containing -four young ones, over whom the mother mounts guard; cockatoos, parrots -innumerable, with most lovely plumage; and last, but not least, the -graceful native companion from Broome. These are only a few of the birds -belonging to the colony of Western Australia, but I have not space to -mention more of them. - -The nests of the trap-door spider are very peculiar; they look like -a piece of ordinary clay, but when the door is opened a perfectly -hollowed-out room is seen within, where the spider and his prey almost -exemplify the old rhyme of childhood’s days. Some of the moths are very -handsome, notably the diuran and the podacanthus, the first named being -very large and of a lovely heliotrope colour. From these insects to a -whale is a big jump, and the skeleton of the whale stranded at the Vasse -in 1897 and secured by Mr. E. C. B. Locke, M.L.A., for the Museum, is one -of the largest of its species, if not _the_ largest; it is nearly 80 feet -in length, and when in the flesh it must have measured 86 feet. The head -alone weighs a ton or more, and the whole skeleton is prodigious. Coming -back from viewing the whale, my attention was drawn to the first two -sovereigns struck off in the Perth Mint, which repose on a velvet bed, -and are, it appears, of much interest to the rising generation, for three -boys were looking at them with great attention. The models of all the -great and wonderful diamonds ever found in the world, some very ancient -Greek coins, and famous French medals, work of noted French medallists -also a cast of the celebrated Moabite stone, the original of which is in -the British Museum, are near here; the last named is of great interest, -being inscribed in three languages—Egyptian hieroglyphics, Semitic, and -Greek; it was discovered in 1799 in the little town of Rosetta, on the -Nile. It was the deciphering of this stone in the Greek language that -gave the clue to Egyptian hieroglyphics. There are also copies of many of -the great works of art in London and Paris, so that, although separated -by so many thousands of miles, Perth still keeps touch with the old world. - -The relics from the wrecks of the _Batavia_ in 1629, and of the _Zeewyk_, -wrecked in 1727 at the Abrolhos Islands (the story of which I will tell -later on), are the most interesting things to be seen in the museum. -They consist of silver and copper coins, rosary beads, clay tobacco -pipes, copper kettles and stewpans, knives, spoons, scissors, fish-hooks -and sinkers, tumblers and wine-glasses, some of most delicate glass, -enormous greenish-looking liquor bottles, and some round ones, capable, I -should think, of holding gallons, cannon-balls and bullets, said to have -been manufactured by the mutineers on the islands, and two complete but -rather gruesome skeletons tell a silent and sorrowful tale of the past. - -The wonderful shells and corals from these islands made me no longer -wonder that the Dutchmen in 1629 named them “Abros vos olhos,” or “Keep -your eyes open”; they must have named them not only for the dangers of -the coast but for the marvellous things to be seen there. - -[Illustration: CITY OF PERTH] - -The different kinds of shells, sponges, corals, fish, and birds are -simply amazing. I can only specify a few, amongst which are the -tremendous cup-sponge shell, fully three feet long, the peculiar -montipara or screw coral, and the enormous sponges, the many wonderful -kinds of fish, birds, &c., from these strange islands so near our shore, -as well as from Mandurah, Rottnest, Garden Island, and Fremantle must -be seen to be appreciated, and I recommend every one visiting Western -Australia to go and see them for themselves. The collection of aboriginal -curiosities and relics is ample. The skull of a notorious aboriginal -murderer called Pigeon, who gave the police much trouble in catching him, -was shown to me. This native was named Pigeon on account of his favourite -way of despatching his victims by wringing their necks. There are some -fine native shields, spears, knife dabbas, meeras or throwing-sticks, -kileys or boomerangs, &c., and some most peculiar boat-shaped shells -that are hollowed from young trees and used for carrying water or food; -a wooden helmet, exactly like a sou’-wester, makes one think that one of -the Dutch sailors who came ashore in the early days must have dropped his -hat and some savage have copied the pattern in wood. The fish-spears have -about eighteen barbs both ways; the spearheads are made of many kinds -of different glass, and nowadays the natives knock down the telegraph -insulators and make them into spearheads. In former times silex, of -which knives and chisels were made, was used, but the other material is -easier to get, and the black fellow is well known to be as much averse to -trouble as some of the white fellows. I possess three spear heads from -the Kimberly district, one of which gave the death-blow to a man from -whose chest it was extracted. - -[Illustration: Aboriginal Camp] - -The medicine-stick or bunganarrie used by the natives as a cure is very -strangely marked, the markings no doubt constituting some imaginary -spell. The dandie is used for tattooing, and the gunda-stick, with a -knob at the end, looks like our life-preserver. The pindie pindie is a -native ornament stick, frilled to represent a feather, and sometimes made -of pretty green and cream colour. The effect is produced by scraping -down the green part of a young branch about two inches till it frills, -then scraping the inner pale part to frill over that. A space comes -next, and then another frill, until the ornament reaches the length -required. These objects the natives stick all over their heads. They -also make very handsome ornaments of large mother-of-pearl shells by -drilling a hole through the top, and hang them by a string of hair about -their bodies. The women have an ornament made from pearl-shell called -the binjah binjah, which hangs down their back attached to a currican -or woman’s necklace. The long marrie is an ornament of kangaroo teeth -attached to a hair-string, to hang down between the eyes. The booran is -a belt made from human hair, worn by the Kimberly natives. The native -women have most stringent ideas of mourning for their dead. A picture -of one mourning for her brother shows her hair all screwed up in little -knobs with wilgie clay and fat. Wilgie is a red-coloured clay or earth -used for various rites and ceremonies. The tomahawk or pulboo has a -handle of wood, the head being made of a kind of flint or stone, fixed -in with a resinous substance called pulga or gum, made from the roots of -the spinifex grass. Native spearheads too are fastened on with this gum, -which is found in solid lumps, and dissolves with heat. String is made by -the natives from the skin of the opossum by means of an instrument called -the boolga, which consists of a long thin round stick, crossed near the -top by two shorter sticks, and has somewhat the appearance of a boy’s -kite. In making their implements they generally employ a tool called a -bedoo, which resembles a spearhead. The ongath or fire-stick is used for -lighting fires, and keeps alight a long while, burning very slowly. These -sticks are carried about almost as we carry matches. The letter-sticks of -the natives, or paper-talk as they now call them, are beautifully marked -and of different sizes, the designs on those from the Gascoyne district -being quite remarkable. Around the stick will be marked, in a kind of -blue ink, all sorts of odd signs and figures, such as a crab, a gun, a -leg, an arm, a lover’s knot, a hand and arm outstretched almost like a -masonic emblem, and many other peculiar signs best known to themselves. -The dewark, or throwing-stick, is also an interesting object, and so are -the many aboriginal carvings and the sharp stones used in their sacred -or tribal rites. The stones used for grinding their food consist of a -large flat stone and a round smooth heavy one. Nalgo is the name of the -principal seed thus ground, but they have many different kinds of food, -which I will describe later. A tree called the boobah-tree grows at -Derby, and produces a nut as large as a goose egg. - -The natives about Perth and Fremantle were in early days very numerous -and troublesome. Native risings were frequent, and many hundreds of -aborigines were shot. The present site of the Great Western Hotel was -the scene of a large fight, arising out of the murder of two boys, the -sons of settlers, who were minding cows, and were set upon by the blacks. -The boys ran away to the Swan river, and one jumped in and swam across, -only to be speared on the other side. The other boy did not reach the -bank, but received five spears in his back and died at once. At this the -settlers were soon up in arms, and one bloodthirsty native called Yagin -was outlawed. He was eventually shot near Hutt Street, where the rising -took place, by Dr. Dodd, who afterwards took a large strip of his skin -from shoulder to foot, tanned it, and made it into a belt, which he wore -for years! - -That silk can be grown in Perth is testified by some lovely blue and -cream-coloured handkerchiefs made from silk grown here, and presented -to the museum by Sir John Forrest. Next to this case is an old plan of -Leschenhault Port, now called Bunbury, in 1803. Also a little picture of -the ship _Success_ and a man-of-war in Careering Bay, Swan River, in 1829. - -Perth does not yet boast of a large Botanic Garden, but as, in the -spring, the whole country around is one vast garden the absence is -not severely felt. There is a charming public garden, small, but very -prettily laid out, near Government House, and opposite the Post Office. - -Sir John Forrest prophesied, ten years ago, that in the future Western -Australia would come to the fore, and the prophecy is being amply -fulfilled; no travellers now ever think of making a tour in Australia -without coming to the West. Mr. Frederick Villiers, the famous war -correspondent, says that when he came to the colonies, seven years ago, -he was nearly coming here, and, now having been, he professes to be so -much charmed with Perth, and the view of the Swan River, as to feel -inclined to settle down and end his days there. These little corners of -the world have made him dissatisfied with his business, and as I gazed -upon the many spots of beauty on the river before me, while the faint -red blush of the sky deepened into a crimson sunset and cast a glorious -reflection on the water, I felt myself agreeing with Mr. Villiers and -disposed to stay in my pretty Claremont home for ever, where the sun -seldom shines too fiercely and the winter is like a gentle friend. - -One spring day I drove in to Perth to see the flower show, then being -held in the Town Hall. The drive over the bloom-covered slopes of the -park, the sweet odours of the pretty flowers of the Bush mingling with -that of the golden wattle, was most enjoyable. I can never ride or -drive through that park, and gaze on the beautiful scene below, without -feeling that God has indeed given us a lovely world to live in. It was -a holiday, and consequently many little parties (frequently of two) -were exploring the flower-scented knolls and enjoying the breeze from -the water. Perth was quite gay, all the carriages of the _élite_ seemed -engaged in carrying their fair owners to the flower-show. On entering -the Town Hall a perfect blaze of beauty in the shape of wild flowers met -the eye. The silver and golden wattle, laden with fragrant perfume, drew -me immediately to the spot where they were. In the “Salyang Mia-Mia” -(wattle-house) a most refreshing cup of tea was to be procured. Sitting -in this fragrant bower and sipping tea brought to mind the lines: - - All the world is turning golden, turning golden, - Gold buttercups, gold moths upon the wing, - Gold is shining thro’ the eyelids that were holden, - Till the spring. - -“Djanni Mia-Mia” (bark-tree house) was a triumph of rusticity, and the -collection of hibiscus, boronia, flannel-plants and mauve everlastings -were so lovely that I was obliged to buy several bunches of the different -kinds. The bamboo stall was also very artistic, and the bamboos furnished -receptacles for water, by means of which the flowers were kept fresh. -“Yanget Mia-Mia” was the name of the bush-house, which had a background -of bulrushes and blossom, and various bouquets of all sorts, sizes and -scents were so tempting that I bought more, and found myself becoming a -walking flower-garden. Wild flowers were here in every variety and hue. -Specimens of native flora had been gathered from the hills and dales for -miles around. The anygoxanthus (kangaroo paw), a most wonderful flower, -was to be seen in many different hues: the blue and red leschenaultia, -the trailing white clematis, or virgin’s bower, hanging in charming -clusters, white and red hibiscus, and the more delicate heliotrope -variety of the same flower, the delicate grey smoke-plant, with its dark -green leaves, the snowflake flower, which, when blooming on its native -earth, looks like a snow white carpet, one after another caught the eye. -These flowers have long stems, and make exquisite table decorations. -The thysanctus, or fringed lily, is a remarkable satiny-looking flower, -and has a habit of climbing. The delightful boronia has many different -varieties, the pale yellow being the prettiest, and the pink and white -coming next; the dark red or brown, however, gives off a most delightful -and refreshing perfume. The native roses are very pretty, the small blue -ones being the first and last flowers to bloom during the season. The -blossoms of the eucalyptus are of a magnificent crimson, and the delicate -pink and white flowers of the crowea hang in loose clusters. Having -travelled through so much of the Western Australian country, I recognised -many of the beautiful gems that are to be seen adorning the Bush in -various parts I visited. The kangaroo paw, before spoken of, has many -varieties, ranging from faint cream colour, through scarlet, crimson, -yellow, chrome, and green to sable, and in form is exactly like the foot -of our typical Australian animal. The little trigger (candolea) plant, -with its white flower suffused with shades of pink and yellow, and the -marianthus, a climbing flower, are extremely beautiful. - -[Illustration: DRIVING IN PERTH PARK AT THE SUMMIT] - -The peculiar-looking ice-plant grows in the hot dry sand of the coast. -I admired greatly some soft-tinted native tulips (pink), which were -prettily veined and almost transparent. The actinotis (or flannel -flower) is very abundant and long lasting, and therefore well fitted for -decorations. Pilotus (or cat’s paw) has a pink and white flower, and -retains its colour for a long time. A flower called the lactinostachys -is most phenomenal; the stem and leaves seem to be without sap, and have -a thick woolly covering; the flower looks so artificial that one can -hardly believe it to be real. It is found in the northern part of the -colony in hot dry localities. The clematis is a sweet pure white flower, -which literally covers the trees and shrubs where it climbs. The banksia -(or honeysuckle) is a handsome flower, with a kind of crimson cone. The -parrot-plant looks like a many-coloured bird. The grevillia (or native -fuchsia) is here in many hues. Sturt’s desert-pea is a very handsome, -brilliant scarlet flower, with black centre. The fringed verticordia, -with its lemon-centred foliage, is pretty, and so is the callistemon, -which has bright scarlet plumes. The petrophila flower has striking -blossoms that look like rich pink velvet, while the yellow flowers and -peculiarly formed leaves (resembling a stag’s horn) of the synaphea were -the most remarkable growths that I saw. Everlastings in every colour -imaginable were there. The delicate but striking beauty of various -orchids was shown to great advantage; the calendia (or spider orchid), -with its peculiar spots, was particularly attractive: the douris (or -dog-ear orchid), and the prasophyllum, with its spikes, 18 inches long, -of dense white flowers, were interesting; so was the lyperanthus orchid, -whose flowers turn black when dried; while the drakea (or hammer-head -orchid) looked almost like a little duckling. The glossodia, spotted -white, seemed as if it were varnished. Then there was a sensitive plant -called the pterostylis, which almost resembled a tiny box, with a movable -labellum, which is sensitive, and, when irritated by an insect, closes -the box and imprisons the insect. Droseracea belongs to the fly-trap -family, and has leaves and tentacles covered with a sticky juicy kind of -acid, which arrests the inquisitive little insects, who come doubtless -attracted by the dew on the leaf. As soon as these tentacles are touched -the leaf closes in upon the unwary insect, which is soon absorbed by the -juice exuded by the plant. The flower of the byblis, by far the largest -and most attractive of the species, is of a rich salmon-pink colour. -Probably the brightness of the flower attracts the insect to the stem and -leaves, which are covered with the same juice as the droseracea, but in -this instance the insect is absorbed on the surface of the plant. There -are thirty-six species of insectivorous droseracea. - -[Illustration: GATHERING WILDFLOWERS] - -There are hundreds of other species of orchids and thousands more of -wild flowers. The late Baron von Mueller said, “Australia is a great -continent, and much of its vegetation is yet unexplored.” The Baron added -“that more than half of the total vegetable species known in Australia -were represented in the West,” and mentioned over 9000 of them. Dr. -Morrison, our Government botanist, informed me that there were more than -3000 species of wild flowers. - -As I was leaving the flower-show I noticed some very fine Anthorreas. -“The King Blackboy” is a Western Australian grass-tree much admired. -A handsome painting of the Nutsyia fire-tree, or Christmas-bush, also -demanded notice. This tree bears very bright yellow or amber flowers -about November and December, and the blossoms being of such a brilliant -colour, and growing on trees that attain the height of from 20 to 30 -feet, are very conspicuous and visible at a great distance. - -Taking the little steamer one morning I crossed to South Perth. The new -Zoological Gardens are worth seeing, if only for the superb view from -them. A recent visitor said that he had seen many gardens in various -parts of the world, but none in a more beautiful position than at Perth. -The gardens occupy about forty acres of ground, and are a favourite -resort on Sundays and holidays. Family parties are made up to go to the -“Zoo,” for many Western Australian children have never seen wild animals -elsewhere, except in picture-books. The grounds are beautifully laid -out; the aromatic flower-beds, ornamental ponds and rockeries, gushing -fountains, miniature castles, turrets, &c., make it a charming place to -spend an afternoon and evening. At night the grounds are illuminated with -hundreds of different-coloured lamps, which send a rainbow radiance -over the scene. Concerts are held every Saturday evening during summer, -and there is a really fine quartet, called the Orpheus, whose harmonious -blending of sweet music in the lovely summer nights is well worth -listening to; the Headquarters band also plays. Many of the animals -awakened by the sounds of music (which is said to soothe the savage -breast) evince much curiosity, others slumber on, no doubt soothed by -the sweet strains. There are two splendid lions in separate cages. The -lioness is very bad-tempered, and on being placed in the cage with the -king of beasts, instead of showing a taste for his society, clawed him -unmercifully, he standing the bad treatment in a most kingly manner. Her -highness was, therefore, placed in a cage by herself to recover her good -temper. - -The baby tiger seemed to be a great favourite, and it was quite amusing -to see the antics of the monkeys in their play-room with the little -ourang-outang, with whom they seemed to fraternise amicably and to -play with quite happily. A ride on the donkey was much enjoyed by my -little niece. I wanted her to mount the dromedary, but she declined -that pleasure. Boys are pleased with the ponies, and the handsome -goat-carriages come in for a share of admiration. The sacred Indian cow -from Singapore, the newly arrived leopards, the white kangaroo (a great -favourite), and all the others, too numerous to mention, were thoroughly -inspected, and the children from the goldfields seemed delighted to see -animals hitherto only known to them through the medium of books. Hot -water is provided free of charge, and picnics are frequent; happy parties -of little ones were sitting down in the cool shade and making the place -ring with their voices. A view of the Canning river lies on one side and -of the Swan river on the other, the garden being situated on an arm of -land almost surrounded by water. - -[Illustration: SOUTH PERTH FROM THE BANKS OF THE SWAN] - -South Perth was in early days intended for the site of the city, but the -business parts having occupied the other side of the river, South Perth -has been left to become a most charming and aristocratic suburb, many -handsome residences, pretty villas and gardens adding to the natural -beauty of the place. An old mill is still standing on the extreme end of -the Point, and eventually a bridge will span the Swan river and connect -Mill Point with Perth at the foot of Mount Eliza, near the park. Land -is becoming very valuable here, and I have bought a plot with a view to -building a villa in this beautiful place. - -I did not return by steamer, which only takes ten minutes to cross the -water, but preferred to drive round by land—a drive of about four miles. -We drove about three miles before coming to the glorious Causeway, a -stretch of water which is spanned by an enormous and handsome bridge. -From this point a moonlight view of South Perth, Perth, and the Swan -river winding its way to Guildford, is seen, and forms a very fitting end -to a day’s pleasant excursion. - - - - -[Illustration: Fremantle Pier] - - - - -CHAPTER VI - - Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The - Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s - Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle. - - -One bright morning I started to drive from Perth to Fremantle, a distance -of twelve miles. Taking the lower road around Mount Eliza, a beautiful -prospect lay before me. The Mount rises 200 feet above the road, which -is only a little way from the broad river; the sun shone on Melville -Water in the distance, while on the other side lay the Canning river, -with trees and hills beyond. The pretty suburb of South Perth on its arm -of land, with the old mill at the extreme end; the many little boats and -steamers going to and fro, made a charming summer-day’s picture. Along -the road past Perth Park we saw the blue and silvery water all the time, -and then, when we came to Crawley, we entered a road fenced on each side. -Valuable land is placarded for sale, and no doubt in course of time will -become even more valuable. Already streets have been laid out for a -suburb, which, being so beautifully situated, will be charming to live -in. After a pretty drive of six miles we reached the fashionable suburb -of Claremont, where there are some very elegant villas and mansions. -A mile farther on is Osborne, the most magnificent hotel and grounds -in Western Australia. This fine building stands in large gardens and -grounds, and is surrounded by splendid conservatories and terraces. There -are wide balconies, arbours, and seats, and, in the matter of beauty, -the place almost realises Claude Melnotte’s description of “a palace -lifting to eternal summer.” It seems almost incredible that three years -ago this exquisite spot was the abode only of the blackboy, banksia, and -other native trees, and a shelter for the dusky son of the soil. Towering -high above the hotel is a turret of spacious dimensions, from which the -growing port of Fremantle, with many merchant vessels and steamships -riding peacefully at anchor, may be clearly seen in the distance. The -adjacent islands of Carnac, Garden, and Rottnest, with their rugged -coast-lines, lashed by the surging waves of the ocean, are but a few -miles distant. The clearness of the air gives a wonderful range of vision -from the tower. As you turn, you behold in the distance the dark woodland -of the Darling Ranges, whose summits seem to touch the sky. In the zenith -of summer heat in Western Australia, Osborne is always delightfully -shaded and cool. - -An artesian well in the grounds, which struck water at a depth of 150 -feet, gives an abundant supply, capable of supplying the whole of Perth. -No less than 50,000 gallons of water are used every day on the grounds of -Osborne alone. Steamers come to Osborne jetty during the week, and every -Sunday in the summer, bringing hundreds of people to enjoy the scene. -The steamer moors at a landing at the bottom of the cliff, and hundred -of steps have to be climbed before the top is reached. The climb is made -easy by a platform with seats at the end of every flight of steps, of -which there are five, and one can rest on these to enjoy the pleasing -prospect. Pretty villas are built all around the hillsides; dear little -Freshwater Bay, with its numerous bathing-houses and jetties, the pretty -yachts and boats on its bosom looking like white-winged birds, lies at -your feet; and the wild note of the magpies, not yet frightened away -by civilisation as the aborigines have been, is heard from the trees -in the distance. Continuing our drive, we took the inner road up the -hill. Another pretty little bay and suburb called Peppermint Grove, from -the fact that at one time it was a grove of delicate peppermint-trees, -discloses itself. There are many beautiful villas with gardens, a nice -white, hard sandy beach, a fine jetty for the many boats that come from -Perth and Fremantle, and the Yacht Club House. Keane’s Point, with a -handsome old bungalow on a fine site, hides a bend of the river. The -Chine, so called from its peculiar conformation, the ridge appearing -like the backbone of an enormous whale or other gigantic sea monster, is -another pretty spot. Any one who has the fortitude to climb to the top of -the Chine will be rewarded by one of the most exquisite panoramic views -of ocean, river, flower, shrub, sea and sky ever seen. The tints of the -water from the reflection of the azure sky melting into pale yellow, then -into rich gold and crimson from the setting sun, once seen will never be -forgotten. Turning back, we resumed our drive up Forrest Street and into -the main Fremantle Road. We were now in the seaside suburb of Cottesloe, -and away over the hill lay the beautiful Cottesloe Beach, stretching -along for miles. Cottesloe is one of the most flourishing suburbs of -Perth. A few years ago it was all one dense bush; now it is full of human -life, and houses are going up in all directions as fast as the builders -can erect them. Past the quarries we went until a turn of the road -brought us to a view so magnificent that its effect can never fade from -my memory. In the distance the dark blue Indian Ocean rolled in all its -majestic splendour; North Fremantle was in sight, and so was the mouth of -the Swan river. We approached the bridge to cross it, and saw an effect -even more beautiful. From the bridge on which we stopped a few minutes -in order to gaze on this gorgeous scene we saw many fine ships lying at -anchor on the broad ocean; up the river many small boats and steamers -were moored; in the distance were white cliffs and pretty houses; the -magnificent German steamer, the _Friedrich der Grosse_, was just going -out to sea—and altogether the scene was truly a grand one. I hope I -shall not be thought to rhapsodise too much, but I can assure my readers -that I am writing exactly as I felt when first viewing the approach to -Fremantle. - -[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT] - -When the new harbour is finished, Fremantle will be, as Sir John Forrest -puts it, the Brindisi of Australia. And now we crossed the bridge and -entered East Fremantle, leaving behind us the broad river winding its way -to the ocean between two splendid breakwaters. - -On we drove down Cantonment Road into High Street, the principal -thoroughfare, at the top of which is the fine Town Hall with its splendid -clock. From that point the street runs to Arthur’s Head, and is connected -by a tunnel with the sea; on the top of the limestone cliff is an old -building called the Old Cantonment, formerly used as a lock-up. Fremantle -is built on a low-lying neck of land between Arthur’s Head on the one -side and the limestone heights on the other, hemmed in on one hand by -the river and on the other by the sea. The city was named after Captain -Fremantle, who first hoisted the British flag there, in 1829. - -There is a fine lighthouse on Arthur’s Head. It is a white stone tower -71 feet high, with a fixed white light, visible for 16 miles. Fremantle -still possesses some old and singular-looking buildings. The old gaol -and court-house, with the harbourmaster’s quarters and the barracks, -will, no doubt, in course of time be replaced by more up-to-date -structures; there are already many very fine new buildings. Fremantle -has an excellent Grammar School, where most of the boys from Perth and -the country districts receive their education. Mr. G. Bland Humble, the -present worthy and respected Town Clerk of Fremantle, was the first -master, having been brought from England in 1886 to teach the young idea -of Western Australia how to shoot. - -There are many good hotels, the Hotel Fremantle being the best at the -city end of the town, and the Hotel Australia at the upper end. This -latter is really a splendid hotel, standing in an excellent position, -with a grand view of the river, harbour, and islands beyond. The jetty is -half a mile long, and some large vessels are always lying there. - -Fremantle is rapidly increasing in size and population, and social life -is not so divided as in Perth; there seem to be more geniality and not -so much stiffness about the people. A volunteer artillery corps, turf, -bicycle, rowing, cricket, and football clubs provide various forms of -social activity. There is a nice park, also a good recreation-ground, and -several places of entertainment, and the large hall in the Town Hall is -very handsome and superbly decorated. An inexhaustible supply of water is -obtained from three large wells connected by drives. The water is pumped -up by steam into reservoirs at the rate of 45,000 gallons an hour. - -The smelting works about two miles from Fremantle, at Owen’s Anchorage, -have lately commenced working, and are a great boon to the goldfields, -which until recently were very much handicapped by having to send their -ore to the other colonies to be smelted. - -[Illustration: NORTH FREMANTLE] - -The South African War is the general topic of the day, and with what -sorrow do we read of the sacrifice of so many noble lives! Several -contingents of our brave Australians have left the different parts of the -colonies to assist their British brothers with a little of the courage -we have in the Sunny South. The second contingent has just left these -shores, and Fremantle has had the honour of giving them the send-off. -Over 30,000 people assembled to bid them farewell, and a scene of such -unbounded enthusiasm ensued as has never before been witnessed in the -colony. The magnificent steamer _Surrey_ brought the New South Wales -and South Australian contingents, and these soldiers came in for their -share of admiration no less than the Western Australians. The enthusiasm -shown for the Western Australian contingent from the time they left -the camp at Karrakatta until they waved their last good-bye from the -steamer’s side will never be forgotten. The street decorations, although -hurriedly got up, were handsome and patriotic. At the Oval, where the -reception to the troops was held, a huge marquee occupied considerable -space, and rows of tables laden with every delicacy were provided for -the troops and for the many distinguished visitors. Over 200 of the -leading society ladies of Fremantle acted as waitresses, proud to attend -on brave men soon to embark for the perils of war. Although the men were -going away to face battle, all seemed jubilant, proud, and confident. -The three contingents were all like brothers. The cries of the multitude -were: “Cheers for the Cornstalks of New South Wales,” another for the -“Gum-suckers of Victoria,” one for the “Crow-eaters of South Australia,” -and “A great big one for Westralians; do your best, boys!”[1] At the -wharf, prior to the _Surrey_ leaving next day, somebody handed up a -bottle of whisky, intending it for a Westralian trooper. A Cornstalk, -however, became possessed of it. “That’s not for you, it’s for one of the -Western Australians,” shouted the donor. “It doesn’t matter, we’re all -alike, we’ll soon be Federated Australia,” laughed the Cornstalk, and -opening the bottle took a drop, then handed it round to the rest, who all -participated in it with real federal spirit. When the time came for the -troopship to leave, some affecting scenes took place between mothers, -sisters, wives and soldiers, but all bore up as bravely as possible. -Were they not going for the glory of Old England and the honour of their -beloved Queen? - -A Bushmen’s contingent has since left all the colonies, comprising men -who are accustomed to rough-riding and thoroughly used to rough life in -most trying conditions. From what I know of many of the Bushmen I have -met in my travels, I should say that they will afford the British troops -valuable aid in reconnoitring the wily Boer. - -As we all know, the Australians have since bravely distinguished -themselves, and our late dearly beloved Queen testified her approval of -their actions in many ways. Her late Majesty’s gracious act of proposing -that the Duke and Duchess of York should go so far in order to open -the Federal Parliament of Australia endeared her still more, were that -possible, to the hearts of her colonial subjects. As one of them who saw -the late lamented Prince Edward and Prince George when they went out to -Australia years ago in the _Bacchante_, “I can testify to the unswerving -loyalty and affection of Australians for our beloved Queen and all her -family.” - -[Illustration: HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE] - -And what a brilliant record our Western Australians, especially those of -the first contingent, who have returned to Perth, have taken back with -them! Truly they deserve the laurel-wreath of honour, while those who -fell on the field of battle, giving up their lives for their beloved -Queen and country, will live for all time in our hearts. I cannot do -better, I am sure, than give Major McWilliams’ description (at the -banquet given in Perth in honour of their return) of the way in which -some Australians bravely distinguished themselves. - -“Before closing, he desired to tell them a story about their entry -into Pretoria. He thought it was an incident that all who participated -in would remember to the last days of their lives. The hills around -Pretoria were most strongly held by the enemy. Their mounted infantry, -which included the 1st Western Australians, were ordered to take a hill. -They climbed up the kopje, the horses being led behind them, and fought -until relieved by the Gordon Highlanders. Their little band had to do -the work of infantry, and the handful of men held the top of that hill, -and kept the enemy at bay, until the Imperial troops appeared on the -scene. The latter said: ‘This is our job now; you are mounted, and you -will be required somewhere else.’ The colonials informally handed over -the work to the Highlanders, and an order came from Colonel De Lisle to -move back to the hills to outflank the enemy, if possible. They did so -under a heavy fire, but the enemy, on seeing them, must have exaggerated -their numbers, for they made off into Pretoria as fast as they could. The -Western Australians followed, and on that night got within a thousand -yards of Pretoria. At that time Lord Roberts’ main column was six miles -in their rear. Their infantry decided to hold the position close to -Pretoria until morning. During that night one of their number, a son of -an esteemed resident of Perth—he referred to Captain Parker—was sent with -a few men into Pretoria to blow up the line, and he certainly had the -honour of being the first armed man to enter Pretoria. That, he thought, -was a great thing to claim for a Western Australian. He might also state -a fact not generally known, that the flag of truce on the night before -was taken in by a New South Wales officer, an Australian born. This -little company numbered less than one hundred men.” - - TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES. - - The _Gazette_ of October 4 states that the King has been - graciously pleased to signify his intention to confer the - decoration of the Victoria Cross on Lieut. F. W. Bell, West - Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham, - 4th New Zealand Contingent. - - At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy - fire after holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man - dismounted, and returned and took him up behind him; the horse - not being equal to the weight fell with them; Lieut. Bell then - remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement till he was - out of danger. - - Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third - generation. He was one of the handful of men who so - distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, when twenty-five - members of the corps held a body of twelve times their number - of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the - corps was attached—and the guns retired. - - Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. - Hardham was with a section which was extended and hotly engaged - with a party of about twenty Boers. Just before the force - commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was wounded and his horse - killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under a heavy fire - to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, - and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety. - - Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New - Zealand. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -ROTTNEST - - Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The - Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour. - - -A very pleasant excursion is to Rottnest Island, twelve miles from -Fremantle. We left Perth in the morning in the steamer to go down the -Swan river, and then across the harbour from Fremantle to the island. -The day was perfect, the scenery exquisite. I do not think the Eastern -Colonists are aware how beautiful their Western sister is, or they would -flock over here still faster than they are now doing. Leaving South -Perth at our back, we had the magnificent stretch of Melville Water in -front of us. Melville Park Estate is a very valuable property, and is -rapidly being transformed from the primeval bush into a place of busy -life; residential areas are being laid out, houses have been built, -suburbs will soon arise, and land is rapidly going up in value. The -little steamer for Coffee Point was just ahead of us, and at the Point -we could see a fine bungalow, which must be a pleasant house to live in. -Wattle-trees and beautiful flowers were seen in abundance through the -field glass I had brought, and we decided that Melville Water was another -beautiful feature of Western Australia. - -We steamed past Mount Eliza, with its beautiful terraces of flowers and -shrubs looking down upon us. The water was shining like a jewel at its -foot. After rounding Crawley Point, where the handsome residence of Sir -George Shenton stands, we soon passed into the loveliest little bay -conceivable (Freshwater), its high cliffs studded with pretty villas, and -the grand Hotel Osborne in the distance. Then on past Cottesloe, and -into the Swan river again, down past Fremantle, and across to Rottnest. -It was a most delightful trip, and I am sure the lovely Swan river is -without a peer in Australia for rowing and yachting; it is perfect. - -Rottnest is an island about 7 miles long and 2½ miles broad, and the -scenery is very lovely. I do not know when I shall come to the end of all -the beautiful scenery of Westralia, as the more I travel the prettier -each place appears. The summer residence of the Governor is here, and -although not a palatial mansion, yet the situation is so exquisite and -the fishing on the island so good, that the Governor always enjoys his -time of residence there. An avenue of Morton Bay fig-trees, a mile in -length, has lately been planted on the shore of the Serpentine Lake, -near the viceregal residence. Salt lakes abound on the island. There -are chains of them, and the salt contains medicinal properties, but at -present the lakes are only utilised for the manufacture of salt. There -are some nice gardens, and agriculture is carried on by means of the -labour of the prisoners on the island, for at Rottnest is the prison -for aboriginal offenders and juvenile delinquents. There is a splendid -lighthouse on the hill, with a revolving light visible for 40 miles. A -most peculiar phenomenon appeared at Fremantle during the extreme heat of -the summer, namely, a perfect mirage, so that two Rottnests appeared, one -immediately above the other, and the lighthouse seemed to be of immense -height. Strangest of all, about half way up the double-edged island there -appeared a long line of foam, while beyond the island there seemed to be -a line of rocks—recorded by no chart—on the far-distant horizon. It was a -most uncommon sight. Rottnest has rich little valleys, and all kinds of -fruit could be grown there, for the soil is extremely fertile. There are -some very peculiar rock formations and caves, one particularly fine one -being called, after our eminent tragedian, “The Henry Irving.” No better -spot could be found for an invalid in search of health. Many people have -cause to thank the Western Australian climate for a return to health -after having been threatened with consumption. A friend of mine came -from Victoria very ill, and was thoroughly restored after a few months’ -residence here. The long summer, the bright sunshine, the dry warm air -and pure atmosphere are just suited for delicate lungs. The winter is -quite invigorating, with just enough rain and cloud to give variety—the -spice of life. This colony seems to combine all the good qualities of -the famous health resorts about which we colonials hear and read so -much—Madeira, Egypt, the Riviera, &c. - -After a most enjoyable day we returned to Perth in the moonlight, and -with the scent of many sweet flowers wafting from the shore, to the -steamer, arrived all too soon at the end of our charming excursion. - -A very pretty drive is to Woodman’s Point, not far from Fremantle. This -is a great place for camping out and fishing at holiday times. Numbers of -tents dotted about testified to its being a favourite spot. The boys of -the Swan Orphanage are taken out every year to the seaside for a holiday, -and this year Woodman’s Point was chosen. Their happy faces and healthy -appearance told you how well they were looked after. The poor little -fellows were delighted at the sweets and cakes taken to them by several -lady visitors. Their tents were models of tidiness and comfort; the -dining-room was a floor of bushes under a big gum-tree. With the lovely -blue sky overhead, the sparkling water of the sea close by, the beautiful -view all around of ships, steamers and boats, it is an ideal place for -boys to enjoy themselves, and they appeared thoroughly to do so, playing -cricket, climbing trees, and pursuing other amusements dear to the hearts -of boyhood. Some of them sang and recited very nicely, one patriotic boy -giving “The Absent-Minded Beggar” with much enthusiasm. As we drove back -to Fremantle the harbour looked splendid. A great deal of money has been -spent by the Government to make it suitable for large vessels; at one -time no very large ship could get a safe anchorage. At an expenditure of -over a million of money, however, Fremantle Harbour has now been made -able to anchor and berth the largest vessels coming to the colony. The -trade of Western Australia is now most important, and sums up to the -big figure of £12,000,000 a year; 50,000 people travel between here and -the eastern colonies every year, and millions of pounds worth of gold -produced in the colony have been taken away by sea. The mail-steamers now -put in at Fremantle in place of Albany as heretofore, thus giving great -dissatisfaction to the Albanians. However, the change of port is not only -necessary for trade, as Fremantle is the principal port of the colony, -but will also give people travelling from the other side of the world a -better opportunity of seeing the metropolis and goldfields of Western -Australia, which they were often deterred from doing by the journey from -Albany to Perth, a distance of 338 miles, so it is an ill wind that blows -nobody good. - -[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -GUILDFORD - - Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John Forrest—Darling - Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby - Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields. - - -One morning I drove to Guildford, 9 miles from Perth. Such a pretty -drive! The Swan river winds its way so far, and is there joined by the -Helena. The many farmhouses and crops of this fine agricultural district -impress one very favourably. About half-way there is a fine hotel and -good pleasure-grounds, called the Hotel Ascot, overlooking the river, -where much boating and fishing are enjoyed by the visitors patronising -the hotel. - -Guildford is a pretty place, and, being so near Perth, is likely to -become quite an important town. There are some good residences near. -On Mr. Hammersly’s estate, called Pyrton, after the family estate in -England, is a fine house, standing amongst unrivalled scenery. The -scented foliage of the big gum-trees casts a grateful shade for the sleek -cattle, and in the sweet springtime almost every bit of ground is covered -with wild flowers of exquisite beauty. The Hon. H. J. Saunders’ estate at -Henley Park is a few miles farther on, with a very quaint-looking house -70 years old, and built of sun-dried bricks. The walls are nearly covered -with ivy, and woodbine runs over the fences. All kinds of flowers spread -their rich perfume around. The orchard is close by, the scented blossoms -of the various trees mingling their fragrance with that of the flowers. -Mr. Saunders has a large racing-stable, and takes great interest in -racing matters. The private training-track, made at great expense, is -a mile round, and looked like a smooth lawn; the stud flock of Romney -Marsh bred sheep had been feeding there for the previous few weeks. Mr. -Saunders’ racing-stables are recognised as the best in Western Australia, -and he has a small and select breeding-stud, including Leda by Trenton -and Lady Sylvia by Newminster. His racehorses are likely-looking animals, -especially Henley and Black Rock, which have some very good records. As -we drove back to Guildford the sun was just setting, and the country road -with its red soil contrasted well with the different greens of the trees -and fields, and with occasional waving crops, vineyards, and blossoming -orchards. Everything was perfectly peaceful, until, all at once, the -stillness was broken by a party of huntsmen returning from a good day’s -sport. One of them turned out to be an old friend, who told me that the -country around Guildford is excellent for hunting, and that there is a -very good hunt club. Our Australian poet, A. L. Gordon, writes: - - “Here’s a health to every sportsman, - Be he stableman or lord; - If his heart be true I care not - What his pockets may afford. - And may he ever pleasantly - Each gallant sport pursue, - If he takes his liquor fairly, - And his fences fairly too.” - -[Illustration: Hon. H. J. Saunders] - -I put up at the Guildford Hotel for the night, and in the morning -thoroughly enjoyed the fresh fish caught for my breakfast in the river -close by. Some excitement was one day caused in quiet Guildford when, -some new works being in progress, some of the quartz boulders forming -the old foundation were dug up and carted elsewhere; a boulder fell from -the dray, and was crushed by one of the wheels; a glittering object -was noticed in the _débris_, and turned out to be gold; the quartz had -originally been taken from the Darling Ranges. - -I went on to Midland Junction, 2 miles away, _en route_ to the Mundaring -Weir, from which source the much-needed river of water is to be taken -to the Coolgardie Goldfields. This gigantic scheme will cost two and -a half millions of money, but what a boon it will be to the waterless -goldfields, of which far-famed Coolgardie is perhaps the most waterless! -In spite of the croakings of those who are adverse to the scheme, Sir -John Forrest will, I am sure, be found right, and when plenty of fresh -water is obtainable at Coolgardie, so that the millions of tons of ore -waiting for treatment can be properly crushed, people will see that the -first Queen of the Goldfields is not yet dethroned. - -The reservoir, where the waters of the Helena river will be stored by -hundreds of millions of gallons and then carried across the country to -the goldfields, is now in course of construction, and in two years a -river (so to say) of fresh water, yielding 5,000,000 gallons daily by -means of enormous steel pipes, 330 miles long and 30 inches in diameter, -will be flowing, and the Coolgardie housewives will be able to turn on -their taps for fresh water. A new era will then dawn for that beautiful -city, and its true prosperity begin. The sum paid yearly by the Railway -Department for water on its goldfields’ service would more than pay -interest on the cost of the scheme. The morning that I arrived at -Mundaring Weir the workmen were in a great state of excitement; their -residence blocks were being allotted. There were 130 applications, 6 -of which were refused, the applicants not being considered desirable -residents. The Department will not allow an hotel to be established. -Work at the weir was progressing well. At the huge quarries masons were -working up granite into blocks. There is an almost inexhaustible deposit -of granite, and the chief engineer, Mr. C. Y. O’Connor, intends to form -the outer face of the wall with granite instead of using concrete, as is -generally done. One enormous dam, nearly finished, is to hold 10,000,000 -gallons of water. The watercourse has been divested of timber, and the -appearance of the landscape thereby greatly changed. The weir, when -finished, will be 560 feet long, and will hold 4,600,000,000 gallons of -water. - -[Illustration: GOVERNMENT BORE, NEAR MUNDARING] - -The train that carried us back passed through miles and miles of -everlasting flowers. The ground on each side was covered with a carpet -of them. Acres first of white, then of pink, blue, yellow and purple, -charm the eye, and the kangaroo paw, standing up in its vivid hues of -crimson and green, added a still further charm to the scene. On we went -through the country robed in its spring garb of beauty, until we came to -Smith’s Mill, named after Frederick Smith, a young gentleman explorer in -1836, who died of exhaustion at this place after having shown courage and -endurance of hardship worthy of his cousin, Florence Nightingale. Here I -left the train in order to visit the Darling Nurseries, which, although -it is only seven years since they were first planted, are remarkable for -luxuriance. The trees, with their loads of fruit, were weighed down with -their own excellence. Thousands of citron-trees, 50,000 apple-trees, -peaches and nectarines in enormous quantities, plums, pears and prunes -in profusion, persimmons and other Japanese fruits were to be seen; and -as for the flowers, the scent of them was almost overpowering. The roses -were especially fine; all possible sorts seemed to be growing here. -The foliage of the English and Canadian elm-trees and poplars formed -a pleasing contrast to the forest vegetation around. It is only a few -minutes’ walk from the station to this charming place, which is but 16 -miles from Perth; and any one wanting a change from the city should take -an afternoon and visit it. - -Five miles from Mr. Hawter’s nursery garden is the Haughton Vineyard, now -owned by the Mundaring Wine Company. The vines grow at an altitude of -1000 feet above the sea-level. The wine is delicious. There is a notable -grape growing there called “Tarbinet Sauvignon,” from which is produced -the celebrated Lafitte claret. Mundaring seems to be a congenial home to -the vine, and its productive powers are of a high order. - -Another charming place to see, 28 miles from Perth, is Kelmscott, -nestling in its bed of flowers. Everything looked delightful on the -morning that I went there. Nature never appeared more beautiful; it -seemed cruel to pluck the flowers from their beds and crush the sweet -grass with the horse’s hoofs. I felt almost like Mr. Ruskin, who was such -a passionate defender of nature that he would never pluck a flower. Two -miles from Kelmscott is another sweet little village called Armadale. I -put up at the picturesque inn and enjoyed a few days’ quiet rest among -the beautiful surroundings. The orchards, gardens, and vineyards here -are so many that it would take a whole book to describe them. Sir Arthur -Stepney and Mr. Jull own the largest properties, and have recently -equipped a vinery. Only a few years ago immense jarrah and cool white and -red gum trees stood in undisputed possession. Now fruits of all kinds -are growing in luxuriance. Oranges, lemons, and sub-tropical fruits -seem to flourish especially well. So do flowers; blue lechenaultias, -coral creeper, heaths of all colours, heliotrope, primroses, pink, and -yellow blossoms nestle in the grass. Lovely bouquets can be made from -the delicate grey smoke-flower and the pink immortelles, and will last -a long time without water. Six miles farther on we came to Jarrahdale. -As its name imports, this is the home of the jarrah-tree, and there are -large timber mills called the Jarrahdale Jarrah Mills, owned by a London -company with a capital of £300,000. This company have the advantage of -the fine harbour of Rockingham, where large ships call to convey the -timber to all parts of the world. There are five mills on this property. -I stayed at the town one night, and attended a concert got up by the -employées, which was quite enjoyable, many of them being really good -singers and dancers. There is a nice hall, built, of course, with the -handsome jarrah-wood, which polishes so beautifully that it looks like -mahogany. It never shrinks or warps, so that for a dancing-floor it -cannot be excelled. There has been a great demand from South Africa for -this wood, which is almost impervious to the ravages of time. Piles -that have been driven into the River Swan at the Causeway, and others -into the sea at Fremantle, have been taken up after 57 years and found -to be uninjured, having resisted the attacks of the sea worm. This wood -is one of the best for building purposes, for it resists the white ant -and is the least inflammable kind known; yet when burning it throws out -immense heat and makes splendid charcoal. There are many charcoal-burners -about who are making a good living. Iron bolts and nails driven into the -jarrah do not loosen from rust, and there is no doubt the jarrah is the -principal tree of the colony. It has come triumphantly through several -severe tests, and is now in great demand all over the world. The Golden -West does not depend on her mines alone, but, as Mr. Zeb Lane said last -year, “Make no mistake about it, the jarrah of Western Australia will -yet pave the streets of many of the leading cities of the world.” The -late Mr. Ednie Brown, Conservator of Forests, told me that there were -20,000,000 acres of timbered land in Western Australia valued by an -expert at £124,000,000. At present there are 50 sawmills in the colony, -employing over 4000 men, and still the demand is much greater than the -supply, so that there is a great opening for more capitalists. - -Whitby Falls Lunatic Asylum is near Jarrahdale, and the poor souls who -inhabit it must, I am sure, find there a real haven of rest. The asylum -nestles in a sweet valley at the foot of the Darling Range, and the hills -make a grand background. Gardens, large fields and paddocks, with cattle -feeding, stretch all round, and close by is a magnificent orchard. Five -miles farther on are the famous Serpentine Falls, whose glittering -cascades falling among the big rocks and boulders, nearly covered with -scented foliage, then bubbling and rippling down the valley in joyous -frolic among the sweet flowers and ferns, form an idyllic picture. By -many this spot is called the “garden of the colony,” and certainly the -luxuriant ferns and flowers seemed to grow more beautiful at every step. -The blackboy and red gum trees grew more thickly than in any place I have -seen, and where those trees flourish everything seems to grow with extra -luxuriance. The blackboy is a most peculiar-looking grass tree, with a -rough thick stem and a crown of thick heavy dark green grass, looking -at a distance, especially in the twilight, like a real blackboy. The -gum from the tree is eagerly eaten by the natives and cattle. It also -exudes a resin from the stem, which is used for pitch in thatching the -native houses, or Mia-Mias, as well as for other purposes; these trees -burn brilliantly. The falls come rapidly down from the Darling Range -in picturesque cascades, falling over the crystalline rocks into pools -below, thence into the river. Twenty-six miles farther on is Pinjarrah. -To see this quiet little place now, one would not imagine that years -ago it was the scene of an immense native rising; that the soldiers and -mounted police had followed the aborigines for miles, and that here the -climax came, and hundreds of natives fell. Things are changed since those -days of bloodshed, and the few aborigines left do not seem to bear any -ill-will to the white fellow. An old native said to me: “I like white -fellow; he take all my land, but he make my house, and my big railway, -grow big corn, big potatoes; black fellow do nothing, white fellow know -everything, so white fellow do what he like—you give me sixpence?” The -black fellow always finishes up any conversation with that request. -Pinjarrah is on the Murray river, and the centre of a large agricultural -district, where plenty of splendid land is available for the selector. -Some economists say that population is pressing on the earth’s productive -powers, and that by-and-by there will be a dearth of animal food; yet -before mankind is starved out he can become vegetarian, as meat diet is -expensive compared with a vegetable one. It is said that twenty acres of -land are necessary to feed one man on meat, while the same land under -vegetable crops would support a great number. One acre of wheat will -support 42 people; one of oats, 84; of potatoes and rice, 176; so let -us not despair while the rich land is still wailing for cultivation. -Cabbages flourish exceedingly at Pinjarrah, and the climate and soil are -well adapted for English fruits. There is quite a thriving village, with -good buildings and private houses. From this place I took a drive of 14 -miles through rich fruit-growing country to the charming seaside town -of Mandurah. Pears, peaches and nectarines loaded the trees, and there -is a fine fruit-preserving factory, as well as several factories for -preserving fish. The Brighton Hotel is very comfortable, and you can get -a vast amount of pleasure at this charming resort. Boating, fishing and -shooting can be indulged in to your heart’s content. I had a right merry -time; several people I knew were staying there, and I became quite an -expert at fishing. Across the ferry from the hotel is the Murray estuary, -which is really teeming with fish. The goldfields people patronise -Mandurah largely, and many huge catches of fish have been chronicled -by them on their return to the fields from their holiday. Very large -kingfish are frequently caught with hand-lines. Almost any kind of line -will do; it is amusing to see the greedy things snapping at anything you -put on the hook. I saw one caught that measured 5 feet in length and -weighed 38 lb. Black bream weighing 4 lb. are a common catch. Hosts of -crabs are about, making the fishing more exciting than ever. At one time -I thought fishing the slowest amusement in the world, but after this -experience at Mandurah I am convinced that there is some fascination in -it after all. In two days a visitor caught 17 dozen whiting, bream and -mullet. The mullet is a delicious fish, more like salmon than anything. -Some English people staying at the hotel said it was quite equal to the -English salmon. As you may imagine, plenty of well-cooked fish is always -supplied at table, and any one requiring a quiet and enjoyable rest from -city troubles cannot do better than visit Mandurah, where, in addition to -the splendid fishing, other sports can be indulged in, since plenty of -good duck, teal and snipe shooting is to be got at the lakes 5 miles out. - -[Illustration: LUNATIC ASYLUM, W.A.] - -Returning to Pinjarrah, I drove out to a fine orange grove. Some idea of -its character can be gained from the fact that some well-known fruiterers -of Perth bought four trees from the owner at £100 per tree, and, -after ripening and picking, made £50 profit per tree. The Drakesbrook -Experimental Government Farm is about 12 miles off, and I there saw -enormous cucumbers, pumpkins, and other vegetables. - -Seven miles farther on are Millar’s Yarloop Mills. The export from these -mills is very large; 21 sailing ships and 15 steamers were employed to -take away the timber to various places last year. The settlement presents -a busy appearance. When the train stopped over 100 men came from the -mills to get their newspapers and see if there was any one they knew in -the train. I left the train and looked for an hotel to put up at, but -there is none; however, I obtained comfortable quarters at a private -house. There are several mills connected with Yarloop, among them Iron -Pot, so called from a conical hill near to it. Hoffman & Waterhouse’s -Mills are 13 miles away, and are connected by telephone with the head -mill. The office is very handsomely built of jarrah lined with polished -wood, tongued and grooved. Much of the wood of Western Australia is -suitable for small manufacturing purposes, such as making picture-frames, -walking-sticks and knife-handles, while the jam-wood, with its aromatic -perfume, is the very thing for pipe-making. I am sure a large trade could -be worked up in that business. - -Some beautiful artistic work in jarrah carving has lately been done by -Mr. Howitt, of Perth, and was shown at the Paris Exhibition. One piece -especially, a font, is most exquisitely carved. Besides these jarrah -carvings, Mr. Howitt has made some panels from the following Australian -woods—karri, tuart, redgum, sandal-wood, raspberry jam, banksia, she -oak, prickly pear, York gum, blackbutt, wandoo and morrell; each of the -panels is decorated with a carving of the tree’s foliage. I also saw -at Robertson & Moffat’s furnishing warehouse, before leaving Perth, a -handsome dinner-waggon made from seventeen kinds of Western Australian -woods, with which, besides the before-mentioned woods, salmon gum, -gimblet, castor-oil, swamp gum, and curly jarrah were most artistically -introduced in the mosaic part, and with the handsomely carved typical -swan on the top made a very effective piece of furniture. - -The Chamber of Commerce, Prague, Bohemia, have recently written to -Mr. Ulrich, of Fremantle, asking for specimens and samples of Western -Australian woods to be sent to that place with a view to future business; -and when the beauty and excellence of the woods become more generally -known I think they will be put to more artistic uses than wood-paving. -Outdoor enjoyments are yearly coming into more favour, and the demand for -outdoor chairs, seats, and tables must increase. The jarrah-wood never -shrinks, and being of a beautiful dark red colour does not require paint. -The timber resources of the colony are marvellous, and it is estimated -that it would take fully a century to exhaust the now matured trees, -while fresh ones would be growing all the time. - -The Harvey agricultural area, 9 miles from Yarloop, comprises 43,000 -acres; of this 19,803 acres have been surveyed into 155 plots. The -land is splendid for fruit and vegetables, and there are a good many -selections, 10,000 acres having already been taken up. The soil is -rather heavy, and expensive to clear and drain. The Korijekup Estate is -managed by Mr. Asche, and is well under cultivation, the oranges grown -there being especially fine. There are good paddocks for horses to run -in, and the next time our family steed is sent out to grass it will be -to Korijekup. There are about 12 homesteads on the estate, occupied -by different families. The pasture lands are very good, and the soil -well adapted for strawberry and gooseberry growing. There are about 10 -acres of these delicious fruits under cultivation. The manager’s house -and men’s quarters are near the river, the latter a substantially built -structure of slabs, made 60 years ago by convict labour for Sir James -Stirling, to whom the land was originally granted (in lieu of payment -of salary). In the winter time there are a great many trappers about, -who gain a good living by trapping the native bear and opossum, for -the skins of which they get 9s. per dozen in Perth. The grey skins, -when edged with black, make beautiful rugs for a cold climate, but the -winters in Western Australia are so mild that things of that kind are -not required. In the early days the old coach-road to Perth from Bunbury -passed near Korijekup, and where there were formerly only halting-places -many flourishing farms now stand. The land about there is very suitable -for dairying, the grass being green all the year round; the soil is brown -loam, interspersed with rich black swamps, and suitable for intense -culture. - -Another 15 miles brought me to Collie Station, where I took the branch -train to the Collie coalfields. Until recently these fields have been -somewhat neglected, but are now coming into great favour, the coal got -there having been proved to be of excellent quality, and now being -extensively used. The Government have decided to use it on the railways, -and many of the shipping merchants trading to different places have also -signified their intention of using it. The Smelting Works at Fremantle -are following suit; householders are consuming it largely, and I can -state from my own experience that it is excellent coal, which never goes -out, but burns to the last bit, just leaving clean brown dust behind. -It will in time be a mine of wealth to Western Australia and constitute -a great industry, making work for thousands of coal-miners, for the -deposits of coal are almost limitless. Bores have been used in different -parts of the field, and have proved the existence of enormous bodies -of coal. The Collie coal-mine has recently been bought from the Collie -Company by Mr. Zeb Lane, for the British Westralia Syndicate, and is now -called the Collie Proprietary Coalfields of Western Australia. - -Collie is a very pleasant little town, with some hotels, several stores, -and many snug and pretty dwellings. One usually thinks of a coal-mining -town as an uninteresting, grimy place, but Collie is nothing of the kind. -In the midst of a magnificent jarrah forest, at an elevation of 600 feet -above sea-level, this place has, I imagine, a brilliant future before it. -The air is delightfully bracing; the sea breeze blows in from the coast, -and in the near future, when the gardens now being planted by the men on -their residential plots have come to maturity, the miners will be able, -after their work underground, to sit under their own vine or fig-tree -and enjoy the pipe of peace. This is not a mere form of words, but will -be solid fact, for the ground is so good that, beside containing coal -underneath, it will grow all kinds of products on its fertile flats and -valleys. - -Many of the men are making very comfortable homes for themselves; they -can see that the field is permanent, and that they may hope to remain -here. Collie will, I predict, be in the future one of the principal towns -of the colony. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - - Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native - murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old - Residents. - - -[Illustration: Paper Bark Tree] - -Bunbury is 13 miles from Collie, and is the terminus of this line -of railway. In passing through Picton, 4 miles before you come to -Bunbury, you can see the homestead of the Forrest family. It is a -picturesque-looking old house on a little hill with a pretty brook -running below, and the surroundings are very beautiful. Mr. William -Forrest, the ex-Premier’s father, who recently passed away at the ripe -age of 80 years, arrived in this colony by the ship _Trusty_ in 1842, and -first settled at Australind. Some three years later he erected a mill -on what has since been called Mill Point, on the banks of the estuary -near Bunbury, and in 1849 removed to Picton, where he resided until -the day of his death. Mr. Forrest bore with indomitable courage many -misfortunes, such as the burning of his flour-mill, the engine and stones -of which were afterwards removed to Bunbury, and formed the nucleus of -the well-known Koombanah Mill, now owned by Mr. Robert Forrest, his -sixth son. The above-mentioned mill was the first water flour-mill in the -South-West, and was erected in 1849. Mr. Forrest dammed up the Preston -river and utilised it for the purpose of his business. You may be sure -that he was particularly proud of his explorer sons, John and Alick, and -also proud of the fact that one was Premier of the colony, and the other -Mayor of Perth. Sir John made three exploring expeditions, and it is -amusing to hear what “Tommy Pierre,” one of the natives who accompanied -him, said at the banquet held in honour of the explorers’ return to -Perth: “Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful to get back to Swan river, -Bunbury, Fremantle; I thought that we never get back again. Many a time -I go into camp, going through desert places, and say, ‘Master Forrest, -where the devil are you going to? Master Forrest, I give you one pound -to take me back.’ Master say: ‘Hush! What are you talking about? I’ll -take you right through to Adelaide,’ and I hush. I always obey him; I -only black fellow, you know, but I am all thankful; I always very glad to -see white fellow around me.” The _South Australian Register_, of August -27, 1870, says: “On Saturday morning, the band of explorers from Western -Australia, under the leadership of Mr. John Forrest, reached Adelaide. -They were escorted to Government House by a number of horsemen, and the -crowd heartily cheered them as they came up. These men are heroes in the -highest sense of the term. The expedition, as many in Western Australia -still remember, was organised through the instrumentality of Governor -Weld.” The late Premier, who a year before had piloted an expedition to -search for the remains of the explorer Leichhart, readily acquiesced in -the suggestions that were put forward by the then Governor of the colony, -and on March 30, 1870, accompanied by Mr. Alex. Forrest as second in -command; H. M’Larty, a police constable; W. H. Osborne, farrier, &c., and -two natives, he set out for Perth. The party followed the course taken -out by Eyre in 1841, but in an opposite direction, and although they did -not experience the difficulties that Eyre encountered, the troubles -were numerous enough. On March 18, 1874, Sir John Forrest led another -expedition to Adelaide. From Perth his party proceeded to Champion Bay, -and the wild, untrodden desert was safely crossed. On November 3, the -explorers reached Adelaide, and at a banquet which was given in their -honour a few days afterwards, the Premier of South Australia (the Hon. -Arthur Blyth), speaking of the leader, said: “Here we have the likeness -of a man who knew not what fear was, because he never saw fear—who -carried out the thorough principle of the Briton, in that he always -persevered to the end.” - -[Illustration: LADY FORREST] - -I have before me as I write a picture of Sir John as he was in 1866, 34 -years ago; also a picture of the third expedition crossing the spinifex -desert; terrible country to go through. An extract from Sir John’s diary -says: “Tommy (a native) went on with the only horse not knocked up to -find water. I followed his tracks, leading the two done-up horses. -Spinifex everywhere. We can only crawl along, having to walk and drag the -horses with us.” At some places the aborigines were very troublesome, -the camp being attacked one night by 60 of them, who could not be driven -off until some of them had been shot. Sir John Forrest is a man who -has the colony’s interests at heart. By his wisdom and foresight great -tracts of land are being opened up. In his own words: “We have a great -work to do in the great continent of Australia, all of it encircled by -the sea, and flying the flag of Old England, no other nation having any -right or part in it. And what a continent it is! The Western Australian -territory is as big as France, Spain, Italy, Austria, and Germany, and -contains 973,000 miles (square). If you were to walk round it, you -would have nearly a 4000-mile walk. The Empire of Australia represents -nearly one-seventeenth part of the world’s surface. We have great works -and great responsibilities before us, and we are proud of Western -Australia. We want to be in the future one of the brightest gems in the -English Crown.” In 1890 Sir John spoke the following words into Edison’s -phonograph: “I firmly believe that Western Australia has started on -a progressive and prosperous career.” Such words bring to mind the -prophetic words of Cowper’s “Boadicea”: - - The progeny that springs from the forests of our land - Armed with thunder, clad with wings, shall a wider world command; - Regions Cæsar never knew thy posterity shall sway - Where his Eagles never flew, none invincible as they. - -It was in 1890 that representative government was granted to Western -Australia, and Mr. Forrest chosen as Premier. In 1891 her Majesty Queen -Victoria conferred on him the honour of knighthood, and for ten years Sir -John Forrest remained Premier of Western Australia (establishing a record -in Australia’s history), a post which he resigned in order to assume -that of Postmaster-General for Australia; but has since been appointed -Minister of Federal Defence in the Ministry of the Commonwealth of -Federated Australia. Not long before her lamented death, our late beloved -Queen was pleased to bestow on Sir John Forrest the Grand Cross of St. -Michael and St. George, he being, I believe, the first Australian born -who has received that honour. - -I was quite surprised to find such a fine hotel as Gordon’s Pier in a -country town. The dinner was excellently served, the meat especially -tender, the fish sweeter, the vegetables nicer, and the fruit more juicy, -than usual. Perhaps it was because I had been roughing it a little just -before that I valued the extra comfort I obtained here. A splendid -balcony reached right round the hotel, from which was visible the -sparkling water of Koombanah Bay, with its long pier and beach of silver -sand. The lighthouse on the hill, with its square tower and grey walls, -stood like a sentinel against the sky. The light that shines out to sea -at night is 117 feet above high water, and is visible 12 miles. As it was -a hot night, most of the guests were out on the balcony. I lay back in -my comfortable lounge-chair, inhaled the health-giving sea breeze, and -thoroughly enjoyed a cup of delicious coffee brought me by the attentive -waiter. From the drawing-room, where some of the guests were passing -a pleasant half-hour, and while singing for their own pleasure, also -affording gratification to the visitors outside, came strains of music. -I retired early, and was agreeably surprised to find my bedroom lit up -with electric light. The noise from the machinery rather kept me awake at -first, but I soon passed into the land of dreams. The housemaid told me -in the morning that a great many people from the goldfields stay here in -the summer to recoup after the dryness and heat of the fields, and that -the managers of the mines usually wish to have their bedrooms on the side -near the machine-room, as the noise is home-like, or mine-like, and lulls -them off to sleep. - -In the morning I took a waggonette and drove out to explore Bunbury, -going first to the Leschenault Estuary, a sheet of water divided from the -sea by a strip of land 10 or 12 miles long. The surface was dotted with -wild fowl and its depths are full of fish. The Collie and Preston rivers -fall into the estuary. On the shore there are plenty of black swans and -wild duck which seem to be quite tame. On the east side of the estuary -is the site of Australind, to which, 57 years ago, many people came -from England to settle, but finding the place was not what it had been -represented to them by unscrupulous agents, they disbanded and settled in -different parts of the colony, so that Australind now is merely a name. -It is very prettily situated at the junction of the Brunswick and Collie -rivers. There are large dykes about there not yet explored, which may -contain wonderful mineral wealth. Manna gum-trees are to be found, and -yield sometimes as much as fifty tons of gum from one tree. - -Bunbury’s history dates from the first settlement of the colony, when New -South Wales sent soldiers to King George’s Sound in order to circumvent -the French, who nearly had possession of Western Australia. Governor -Stirling took up large tracts of country near Bunbury in lieu of salary, -and settlers were granted 200 and 300 acres of land as an inducement to -go there. When, 60 years ago, the intending settlers arrived and pitched -their camps, a few soldiers were stationed for their protection, but as -the natives were mostly friendly and intelligent, the soldiers had little -to do, so whiled away the time by helping the settlers, and as many hands -make light work the little community soon became prosperous. - -In those days the post was sent twice a month by an aboriginal foot -postman. Sometimes he got tired of his work, and would leave the post-bag -under a tree and decamp. Then scouts had to be sent out to find the mail. -An old colonist, Mr. R. Scott, related to me many of his experiences at -that time. Mr. Scott’s father arrived in the colony in 1830, and not -liking the look of Fremantle, which was merely a sandy beach and wild -bush, with a few tents scattered about, intended returning to Scotland, -but Governor Stirling persuaded him to go to Bunbury with some other -intending settlers. The younger members of the party traversed the 115 -miles on foot, the older people going in the Governor’s ship to the port. -The tramp was a long one, and young Scott’s clothes were so tattered -when he arrived that he would not go out to speak to the Governor, but -hid behind a tree. He was, however, persuaded to show himself, and the -Governor, seeing the poor boy in such a plight, sent to the vessel for a -suit of his own clothes and a cap, no others being available. By cutting -off portions and tucking in other parts the boy was made presentable. Mr. -Scott’s mother, who died some years ago, aged 88, kept those clothes with -great pride until the day of her death. - -Whaling was a local industry in those days. Mr. Scott and his brother had -several whaling-boats, and sometimes took as much as 90 tons of whale-oil -to Fremantle. An American vessel went ashore at that time, and the -enterprising captain, being stranded, took up a piece of land and started -a garden, which he fenced in with the staves of olive barrels. - -The only native murder at Bunbury was perpetrated in 1840, Mr. Layman, -a settler at Wanerup, being the victim. He was speared by the king of -the black tribe then at Wanerup, about 6 miles from Busselton. This -booka (king) came to Mr. Layman’s camp when a native boy, servant to -Mr. Layman, was packing up his damper (a kind of large colonial scone -cooked in ashes) to take with him as rations when he was going out with -sheep. The booka took the damper from the boy, and throwing him a small -piece, was going off with the rest. Mr. Layman came up and saw this, and -taking the booka by the beard forced him to give up the damper. This was -evidently too much indignity for him, and when Mr. Layman turned his back -he speared and killed him, then immediately made off into the bush. The -settlers, about twenty in number, determined to follow and execute him, -but found many difficulties in the way, as none of the natives would lead -them to his tracks. They, however, tracked him as well as they could, and -to frighten the tribe they shot down every native they came across. This -put such fear into them that an old man called Crocodile was induced to -show them the way, and they then tracked the murderer to the Capel river, -to a hollow tree, whence it was some time before he could be dislodged. -When this was effected he was found to be well armed with spears ready -to fight. He was, however, summarily shot by Corporal Gill, and his -head carried back on a pole to the Vasse (now called Busselton). Since -then the only known murder by natives was that of Mrs. McGowan, who was -speared by a half-witted native. The shooting of the blacks, although it -seems cruel, was the means of showing them that the white man was their -master, and after this no more trouble arose with the various tribes. Had -it not been done the tables would have been turned, and all the white -settlers might have been murdered. - -The natives are divided into four families or tribes—the Ballarook, -Deduruk, Donderup, and Gnakerunk. Consequently, if you want to find -out what tribe a certain native belongs to you must say to him: “You -Ballarook?” If he does not belong to that tribe he will say: “No, me -Donderup.” They are all brothers and sisters in each tribe, and bound -to protect one another. When civilised they make fairly good servants, -but never quite lose their wild instincts; and when they have a holiday, -which they frequently take of their own free will, away they go to their -tribe, and revel in free life until they tire and once more long for the -flesh-pots of civilisation, when they again return to their work. - -[Illustration: BUNBURY] - -Thousands of acres of land are available here for purchase. The Mangles -Estate has lately been opened up for settlement on very easy terms. -Potatoes, onions and other vegetables grow most luxuriantly. The pastoral -and agricultural land is very rich, and as many as three crops a year -are sometimes taken off the same land by Mr. Clarke, who has a farm near -Bunbury. The forest lands around abound with splendid jarrah and other -timber. The harbour is very safe and partially protected by a coral reef. -There are many handsome residences. The Hon. Charles Spencer has a large -house on a hill in the most beautiful position in Bunbury, and there are -some splendid vineyards, the soil being specially good for vine culture. - -The town has 1200 inhabitants and the district about 3000. It is very -prosperous, and has many fine public buildings; some of the early -settlers who went through so many rough times are now in the enjoyment of -comfortable homes, and passing peacefully down the vale of life. There -is an exceptionally fine post-office, standing near the spot where the -barracks were erected for the soldiers in the long-ago days. The hospital -is an imposing building, on an elevation commanding a fine view of the -bay, and has very pretty grounds. It would be by no means intolerable to -be ill in this lovely seaside resort, but, as a rule, people who come -to Bunbury get well, not ill. The walking, driving, boating, fishing, -bathing and shooting excursions that are the order of the day give one -no time to think of being ill. Cycling is a favourite pastime, and there -is a very good club. The streets are wide and planted with shady trees. -The Preston river runs into the estuary, its banks are loaded with bright -flowers, and the golden sunshine shining through the trees, the blue -water and the massive breakwater in the distance make beautiful Bunbury -look like a bit of Paradise. - - - - -[Illustration: Blackwood River] - - - - -CHAPTER X - - Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A - Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great Forest. - - -The Hon. H. W. Venn has a splendid estate called Dardanup Park, 10 -miles from Bunbury. The dwelling-house is built in old English style -and surrounded by a garden, where all kinds of beautiful flowers grow -in profusion. There is an enormous shed, capable of holding large -quantities of hay. The dairy cows, standing knee-deep in pasture, are -specially sleek and fat; the milk and cream that I tasted at Dardanup -seemed exceptionally sweet. I went for a six-mile drive to the Ferguson -river, passing many pretty farms, nearly all on Mr. Venn’s land. One -goes for miles down a narrow road like an English lane, except that the -hedges are formed of the beautiful Australian wattle in place of English -hawthorn. The grand Australian trees, red gum and jarrah (some of immense -size), the pretty banksia, the delicate paper-tree, the coral creeper, -which, as its name implies, is of the colour of pink coral, and in some -instances, had embraced the banksia-trees and mingled lovingly with their -broad green leaves, all combined to make a pretty picture. A little Roman -Catholic church and, farther on, a Protestant one, gave token that the -spiritual welfare of the people at Dardanup is well looked after. It is -singular how many native names end with “up.” On to the road to Bunbury -there is a station called Wagerup. An old settler in the district was -not satisfied with that name, and wrote to Mr. Venn, the member for -the district, to say that he was an old settler of 30 or 40 years, and -thought he ought to have a say in the naming of the railway station. -Being a loyal Englishman, he wished it to be called Queen Victoria -Station. I am sorry to say his request has not yet been acceded to. -Another loyal subject at another railway station, where there are about -two other dwellings, has recently built a bush public-house, and outside -is printed, in large letters, “The Palace Hotel.” - -Mr. Venn is very much liked by all the farming community. I overheard a -controversy on politics at the dinner-table between several farmers, and -they were unanimous in their opinion that Mr. Venn was the man for them, -and for the country. - -Beyond lies Donnybrook, not the great Irish fair of that name, but a -fertile spot of Western Australia. A mile before arriving there we -stopped at Baxter & Prince’s siding, 2½ miles from which are their -well-known sawmills, in which are employed a large number of workmen. -There are some fine farms at Donnybrook, and the estate of the Hon. -J. W. Hackett, with its orchards and gardens, is half a mile from the -station. In these gardens all kinds of fruits, especially raspberries and -strawberries, grow in luxuriance. - -On account of the marvellous fertility of the ground there are a great -many applications from people wishing to establish themselves on the -land here, and take up small plots for fruit growing. Two miles out of -Donnybrook is a goldfield, which may some day turn out to be immensely -rich. Gold was first discovered in the surface soil by some men searching -for the alluvial deposit. Further investigations with the miner’s -faithful prospecting-dish eventually led to the discovery of quartz -veins. There are several shafts sunk now to a great depth, all of which -have yielded a profit. Perhaps a new Coolgardie will one day spring into -existence here. - -Mr. Maryanski, the well-known mining expert, is largely interested, has -purchased property here, and has now gone to Europe for the purpose of -floating companies. - -To drive up the Preston Valley from Donnybrook in the lovely weather was -pleasant. The roads were certainly not all that could be desired, but the -forest scenery compensated for a little jolting, and the more one travels -in the West the more is one convinced of the resources of the colony. The -soil is a rich chocolate loam, and grass and water plentiful all the year -round. Hay is principally cultivated here, as a great quantity of chaff -is required for the horses at the mills in the district. - -On my return to Donnybrook, rather tired with my day’s excursion, I -retired early, and after a refreshing night’s rest started for Bridgetown -in the morning. The line has only recently been completed, and was -formally opened on December 2, 1898. It must have been pretty hard work -to make this railway, for the various cuttings are in some parts so deep -that 40 or 50 kegs of powder per day were often used in blasting the -hard rock. There are 178 cuttings and 204 embankments on the line of -only 42 miles, so no wonder it cost the Government a considerable sum -of money. Donnybrook is 208 feet above the sea-level, but Needes Hill, -7 miles farther on, is 770 feet above. After that the road drops down -again to 400 feet, then it rises again to an altitude of 1000 feet, and -at this point comes within 10 miles of the now well-known Greenbushes -Tinfield (of which more anon). A further depression of this elevation -brings it to Hester’s Brook, and then a further rise ascends to Dalgarup -Station, landing at an elevation of more than 1000 feet, whence the line -drops again to Bridgetown, only 510 feet high in the clouds. I quickly -made my way to Warner’s Hotel, and after an excellent dinner proceeded -to investigate Bridgetown and the Blackwood river. The orchards around -this district appeared to be very fine. Sir James Lee Steere, the member -for the district, gives a handsome silver cup every year as a trophy at -the annual show for the best-kept orchard. This has been now won three -years in succession by the Messrs. Allnutt, the Grange. Their orchard -covers an area of 30 acres. Mr. Allnutt, the father of the present owner, -planted this fine orchard 30 years ago. One can imagine what a wilderness -the place must have been then, and what perseverance has been practised -to achieve such a successful issue. The latest development is a steam -sawmill on the property for the purpose of cutting up timber and making -boxes for packing the fruit in. Every kind of fruit one can think of -is here. As well as fruit, magnificent potatoes are grown, and often -yield 15 tons to the acre. Now that the railway touches the place, the -inhabitants say that this will be the chief agricultural centre of the -south-west district. The people seemed so genial that it was really a -pleasure to converse with them. - -A very beautiful drive through richly wooded hills, the tender green -grass of which was dotted here and there by clusters of trees and covered -by the perfumed golden wattle and by many spring wild flowers—appearing -between an occasional field of newly growing wheat—brought me to -Dallgarrup, the homestead of Mr. Godfrey Hester, who has over 7000 -acres of land altogether. I found this gentleman engaged in skinning -and dressing a sheep; he had taken on a Chinese cook, and all the other -hands, objecting to the introduction of Chinese labour, had left in a -body. Consequently Mr. Hester had to turn to and do the work himself. - -About a mile farther on is Blackwood Park, Mr. Gerald Hester’s homestead, -with an orchard of 23 acres, 6 of which bear most lovely apples. There -are 2000 acres, and many cattle and sheep. The house is an old-fashioned -one, having been built 50 years ago for Mr. Hester’s father, who was -the oldest settler on the Blackwood river, and came out 52 years ago -He was the first Stipendiary Magistrate in the district. The house is -in a charming spot, and many handsome willows grow about the running -brook close by. The largest grape-vine I have ever seen is here. Mr. -Hester told me it was planted 40 years ago by his mother. The height of -this marvellous vine is 7 feet to the first branch. There are 6 enormous -branches measuring 8 inches round and averaging 100 feet long. The body -of the vine is 50 inches round. A very large trellis, which from time -to time has been added to, now takes up 39 feet of ground in length by -54 feet in width. The kind of arbour thus formed maybe imagined. 2064 -bunches of magnificent black Hamburg grapes, weighing over a ton, came -off this vine last year, which I am sure breaks the record of production -of one vine in any of the colonies. - -The drive from Bridgetown to Greenbushes Tinfield through forest country -is most enjoyable. This tinfield has of late been richly developed. Until -recently it was not thought much of, gold-mining having deadened all -other kinds of mining in the colony. Now, however, things have taken a -turn, and quite a large settlement has sprung up, and over 2000 men are -on the field. A good town has been formed where three months before was a -dense forest, and solitude reigned supreme. Jarrah growing on the spot, -and two timber-mills being close by, nearly all the houses are built of -the handsome dark wood, are thus much more pleasing than the usual tents -and camps of mining places, and stand out well against the tall green -forest trees. People have built very nice houses, evidently having an eye -to solid comfort, and thinking the field a permanent one. - -The town of Greenbushes is one long street or avenue. On either side -tower the enormous forest trees. The ring of the axe and the crash of -some of these falling giants, together with the immense fires burning -day and night for the purpose of getting out the tremendous stumps -of the trees; the energy of the people, and the numbers of visitors -constantly arriving to see the field, make Greenbushes a lively place. -The town seems to have sprung up by magic; there are 30 stores of all -descriptions, 3 hotels, the Court House Hotel being a very comfortable -one, post and telegraph offices, warden’s court, and other public -buildings. - -Miles and miles of the country contain rich tin. The tinfields are on -the highest point of the Darling Range, 1100 feet above sea-level. The -gullies and watercourses are very picturesque being in the heart of the -green forest. I drove down to Spring Gully, where the men were all at -work in their claims, and the various workings were most interesting. -Dumpling Gully is the name of another part of the field. - -There have been some rich finds. The Cornwall Mine, on the highest point, -has been proved to carry 13½ per cent. of lode tin. Another lode tin mine -is the Yarana, which has given good results. The lode in this mine is -similar to that found in Cornwall, England, being associated with quartz, -schist and kaolin. Tin ore is most peculiar-looking stuff. Some lumps -of it that are called “nuggets of wood tin,” weigh 30 lb. each; another -kind is like fine sand, and another like gunpowder, and the colours range -from white to red, yellow, ruby, black, grey and brown. Some of the men -have sold their claims to the syndicates for £4000 and £5000, and gone -on their way rejoicing. I was surprised to find plenty of horses and -cabs at Greenbushes; these are, no doubt, accounted for by the distance -of the town—three miles—from the railway station, which I passed going -to Bridgetown. The cabbies were doing a roaring trade, and the whole -community seemed very well satisfied with things in general. Gold has -also been found at a depth of 33 feet, the reef being nearly 8 inches -wide, and comprised of quartz; the formation enclosing it contains free -tin worth about 3 ounces to the dish. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - - Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All - aboard”—Karridale—Touring the Forest—King Karri—The Sand Patch. - - -Starting from Greenbushes railway station, I made my return journey as -far as Boyanup Junction, where I changed trains for Busselton, or, to -call it by its first name, “The Vasse.” This was one of the earliest -settlements of the colony, and is one of the most picturesque. It has -a beautiful bay, which, like Bunbury, was at one time a great whaling -place. There are about 30 fishermen there, and most of the fish caught -is sent every day by the Perth Ice Company to the metropolis. The bay is -nearly always calm, and English people say that it resembles Bournemouth -in old England. The lovely beach, with its hard white sand, is a -favourite place for cycling. - -In the afternoon I sallied forth to inspect the beauties of this place -and was quite delighted with this ideal town. Everything is sweet and -clean; the grass and the trees seemed to me to have a more tender green -than in other places. The beautiful sky, with white fleecy clouds, was -reflected in the sparkling sea; dear little boats were dancing on the -water, and at the jetty, which is a mile long, two ships were moored, -while another had just spread its white wings to fly to fresh seas. It -was a perfect afternoon for fishing, which accounted for the number of -fishing-boats out. - -The morning sun shining in all its glory awoke me early. I strolled down -to the pier, and met some boys coming along laden with fish that they had -just caught. I wanted to buy some, but the boys would not hear of that, -and presented me with two for my breakfast, which I took to the hotel to -be cooked, and no fish, I think, ever tasted sweeter. - -Looking one way from the top of the lighthouse at the end of the jetty -one saw an exquisite carpet of green stretching for miles, white houses -nestling in shrubberies near the winding river, and sleek cows in the -pasture, nearly up to their knees in the waving grass; out at sea the -fishing-boats were dancing on the waves; a big steamer in the distance -was on its way to the East; a white-winged ship was just disappearing -from sight on the horizon; and all these, with flocks of birds soaring -across the sky, formed a picture pleasant enough to charm any eye. - -There are some remarkably fine old houses about Busselton; Fairlawn, the -old Residency, for one. The immense China tree in front of the house was -a favourite spot with the late Colonel Molloy, when resident magistrate. -Under its shade he sat many a time transacting the business of the -Residency, and soldiers of the Queen have often passed beneath its shady -branches. Colonel Molloy was with Sir John Moore’s army, and also fought -under Wellington at Waterloo. A magnificent willow-tree, planted by the -Colonel in 1862, a few years before his death, from a slip growing over -Napoleon’s grave at St. Helena, is now 12 feet in circumference. I asked -for a slip as a memento, and it was graciously given to me. Fairlawn -now belongs to Mr. R. Gale, who has a nice dairy, with all the latest -improvements, stables and stockyards. As much as 380 lb. of butter, -from 60 cows, is made weekly by the Laval cream separator, worked by -horse-power. This part of the beautiful country is so noted for its fine -milch-cows that there would be great scope for a large butter factory, -since real nice country butter is seldom to be obtained in Perth at any -price; and I am sure housekeepers would hail the advent of fresh pats of -butter from the country with delight. - -Mulberry-trees were loaded with their luscious fruit, and the bees -were hovering around and sipping the sweets from them. Honey is very -plentiful. In some orchards at Busselton there are as many as 130 hives, -yielding four tons of the sweet commodity. - -Mr. J. Bussell’s estate has a singular name, “Cattle Chosen,” and it -was a strange chance that named it so. Mr. Bussell, the oldest settler -in these parts, had taken up land at Augusta, nearer the coast, but was -not entirely pleased with the place, and while driving some cattle to -the Swan Settlement lost one of his cows. On his return journey he saw -cattle-tracks, and following them up found not only the lost cow, but a -beautiful calf also, on the richest pasture he had seen. Considering the -circumstance as an omen of good luck, and delighted with the locality, -he applied to have his grant, 6000 acres, transferred to the Vasse, and -named the place “Cattle Chosen.” The town was afterwards called Busselton -out of respect to his name. - -The homestead of Cattle Chosen is a pleasant place. Willows grow over the -pretty brooks and white bridges. An avenue of palm-trees leading to the -house, and an old cannon in the garden in front of it, add romance to the -scene. I was shown some marvellous ears of wheat grown by Mr. Tanner near -here, 12 inches long by 8 inches round; also cabbages 12 lb. in weight. -Tomatoes grow by the ton, and as to potatoes, 11 tons have been taken off -one patch of two acres. There is some swamp land near Busselton which it -is said would produce as many potatoes as the whole of Ireland. - -In Mr. Pries’ orchard apples and pears load the trees so heavily—some of -the trees yielding 16 cases of fruit each—that the boughs actually break -beneath the weight. Wax models of some of the pears grown here are to -be seen at the office of the Agricultural Bureau, St. George’s Terrace, -Perth. - -The children on the beach and in the flowery meadows seemed to revel in -their play, and their healthy faces and merry laughter proclaimed that -doctors were not required. No wonder they looked so well, with such a -beautiful place to live in! The summer temperature is never over 100°, -and the winters are mild. With the ample supply of milk, butter, eggs, -fruit, and other good things, the lives of these children are cast in a -pleasant place. - -Mr. Locke, the member for the district, has a great racing-stable at -Lockville, and several horses are training for the coming races. I -admired the beautiful creatures very much. Several of them have already -won important races. Mr. Locke has also many dogs, which have taken -prizes at various shows; he is further well known as one of the best -judges of horseflesh in the colony, and the breeding of bloodstock is -carried on extensively on his estate. - -The recreation-ground is a very level ground of 20 acres, and sport of -all kind is carried on there. Near the fine new bridge is the pretty -English church, covered with ivy, with the peaceful God’s Acre adjoining -it. St. Mary’s Catholic Church, served by that genial and benevolent -parish priest, Father Tracey, is near. Busselton, in addition to its -agricultural capabilities, offers a good opening for the timber business, -and one gentleman, Mr. Porritt, late of Queensland, who has settled -there, with the intention of developing this trade, has obtained a lease -of the Ballarat tramline, and purchased two sawmills, as well as taking -up 60,000 acres of forest land. Employment will thus be given to a great -many men, so emigrants will be welcome. - -Tin has been found close to Busselton, at Quindalup, and as water is -plentiful close by, profit to the district is likely to arise from the -discovery. - -The morning sun was shining in all its splendour over the fair River -Vasse when the driver of the four-in-hand mail-coach cried, “All aboard!” -I climbed to the box-seat, and with a crack of the driver’s whip off we -went. The day was beautiful; the air was exhilarating, and after the -50-mile journey to Karridale I felt inclined for a good dinner. Luckily -I had supplied myself with sandwiches and sherry, or should not have -fared too well. As the journey is nearly all through the bush, one must -not expect to find luxuries in the way of provisions. The scenery and -country we passed through satisfied my eye and soul, but after four hours -in the coach I began to feel that the cravings of the material inner -woman required satisfying also, and was very glad of the little basket -that had been prepared for me. The peppermint-trees growing by the road -are very pretty. These graceful trees grow in thickets, are very shady, -and give a pungent scent. We passed many homesteads on our way, and right -in the middle of the forest a large brick building loomed up. I thought -at first it was a church, but found it was the Newtown Agricultural -Hall. There are no people living about it now, but I suppose there will -be a settlement some day, and Newtown is evidently taking time by the -forelock. When I saw the first karri-tree I was surprised. Without doubt -it is the handsomest kind of tree in the colony. It over-tops all the -other trees, towering to the sky, with delicate feathery leaves, and the -huge trunk, as straight as a mast, is covered by white smooth bark. Some -of these trees are known to reach great heights—as much, indeed, as 400 -feet. Captain Pemberton Walcott is stated to have measured one whose -circumference was 60 feet. I did not see any quite as large as that, but -they certainly looked gigantic. - -On approaching Karridale we passed the racecourse and cricket-ground, -where several lads were at play. This spot is singularly picturesque, -and the district is one of the oldest in the colony. (Augusta, where -the trees grow to 400 feet high, is 11 miles from Karridale, and is the -site of one of the earliest settlements in 1826, but it has never been a -favourite place, and has been abandoned several times.) The magnificent -forest trees await the woodman’s axe; life and industry are everywhere; -the people are like busy bees. I was agreeably surprised to find such a -large township. It is a regular little colony of itself, right away in -one corner of the continent of which we are so justly proud. - -[Illustration: DAVIES’ KARRIDALE TIMBER STATION] - -Karridale is the headquarters of Mr. Davies’ Karri and Jarrah Mill -Company, and 18 years ago was an impenetrable forest. Mr. Davies has -42,000 acres leased from the Government for 42 years from 1882, and the -mill was started in that year amid many difficulties that have been -overcome only by much perseverance. To-day the settlement is a credit to -Mr. Davies and to the colony, and there is a population of 800 persons -dependent on the estate for their living. There is a good post-office, -through which last year the sum of £2340 was remitted; 3700 telegrams -were sent, and 15,000 letters were posted; all the result of the energy -and enterprise of the gentleman above mentioned, who is assisted by his -handsome sons. The Government now derives a revenue of £5000 per year -from this district. Many of the employées have pretty gardens by their -cottages, which are dotted about the bush in most picturesque fashion. -The single men have rows of cottages to themselves, and there is a large -dining-room built for their use, presided over by a good housekeeper, -and as house-rent is free, and there are no rates or taxes to pay, this -seems to me to be a paradise for the working community. Any article -that a civilised being requires is obtainable here; you might almost -say, from a needle to an anchor. A large store adjoins the office, and -although it is a private agency, settlers in the district also can get -their supplies there. There is a nice hall for entertainments, which are -often got up by the people, and a ball is one of the frequent recreations -in the winter-time. A handsome little church has just been built, which -we observed when coming into the settlement. Moreover, there is the -unusual institution of a hospital for horses, of which there are 200 -in the place. A hospital for the people is being built, but everybody -looks so very healthy that I think it will be almost a superfluity. Two -market-gardens and orchards give one an idea of the splendid productivity -of the soil. Ten tons of potatoes per acre, and apple-trees that yield -seven cases each, are quite usual. There is plenty of good grass, and -the bullocks of the estate, 300 in number, live entirely on it, without -artificial food, which means a large saving, and they look splendidly -fat and strong. Mr. Davies was the first man to introduce karri timber -into the markets of the world, and now the company send supplies of it -through England, China, Egypt, India, South Africa, Mauritius, and all -the eastern colonies. Melbourne has patronised karri timber largely. -For wood-blocks it has great strength, and has been proved by British -Admiralty tests to be equal to English oak. The floors of the art gallery -and museum in Melbourne are laid with karri-wood, and in London, Pall -Mall, Piccadilly, and Regent Street have lately been paved with karri -blocks. A log cut over 40 years ago was presented by Mr. Davies to the -Kew Museum. It had been in the ocean 30 years, and is now as good as when -first cut. Karri-wood has the further advantage of not being slippery, -a very essential point in wood-blocks. The karri is an exceptionally -quick-growing tree, and when the matured trees are cut down the young -trees shoot up at once. All the latest improvements are to be found at -Karridale, electric lighting and a telephone service running to the port -and to the lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin. Mr. Davies has a very handsome -house, built in bungalow style. - -[Illustration: Felling the Giant Karri] - -Taking a seat one morning, by invitation, in the inspection-car, with -its comfortable seats, I started for a tour through the forest to the -adjoining mills at Baranup, where a great many men are employed, and -where there is another little place, more evidences of happiness and -prosperity, and more little cottages nestling among the trees. In -the butcher’s shop I saw an enormous block, the complete section of -a tremendous tree. Seeing a strange lady on the car, the men looked -somewhat surprised, but quite pleased. I wished to see the felling of one -of the kings of the forest, upon which four men were then engaged, two -at each end of the cross-saw. It takes six to fell one of these giants, -and when it is coming down one needs to stand “off the grass,” as the -saying is. When felled, the tree is marked off into certain lengths and -severed into so many logs, then numbers of horses and bullocks appear on -the scene and drag the logs to the nearest landing, then they are put -into the truck and borne off to the mill. At Baranup I was to see the -King Karri that I had heard about before coming, and now, when I saw it, -I was satisfied that, although not yet 400 feet high, it is a king of the -forest; indeed, this giant tree is the largest on indisputable record -in Western Australia. It stands in its great majesty in one of the most -picturesque spots of the colony. Its gnarled and weather-beaten roots of -immense size show that it must be of great age. Its dimensions were given -to me by Mr. Davies, and are as follows: - - Girth 4 ft. above ground 30 ft. 8 in. - ” 6 ft. 2 in. ” 28 ft. 1 in. - ” 132 ft. 6 in. ” 20 ft. 7 in. - Height to top of branches 342 ft. 0 in. - ” first fork 146 ft. 0 in. - -This tree would make 146 loads of timber and cut up into 3000 sleepers, -enough to lay a mile and a half of railway. Around here are many more -tremendous giant trees awaiting the woodman’s axe. The demand for Western -Australia hardwood is now far greater than the mills can at present -supply. - -[Illustration: THE SAND PATCH] - -Hamelin Harbour was another surprise. Next morning I proceeded on an -excursion to that place, the train taking a quantity of wood-blocks for -Melbourne streets. A mile and a half on our journey we arrived at the top -of Hamelin Hill. A perfect panorama lay around us; the forest was at our -back, while in front lay the Southern Ocean in all its grandeur, with -little bays and headlands falling into its depths. The pier at Hamelin -Bay, which is seen in the distance, a mile and a half off, is 1800 feet -long. As we approached the bay, the homes of the people employed there -and a charming little lake at the bottom of the valley, with Mr. Davies -yacht and several pretty boats lying at rest on its placid bosom, added -fresh charm to the scene. Arrived at Hamelin Bay, I took a walk down the -long jetty, and the salt seabreeze from both Indian and Southern Oceans -fanned my cheeks with a breath so fresh and bracing that I almost felt as -if I had wings to my feet. Two large vessels were being loaded; the men -seemed to be vying with each other in the effort to do the most work. Two -very large and rather dangerous-looking rocks are not far off the jetty. -I think one is called Mushroom Rock, and certainly it looks more like a -huge mushroom than anything else but a rock. The other is Peak Rock. At -one of the cottages the wife of one of the men was most hospitable, and -made me a nice cup of tea and some toast, which I enjoyed after my early -morning’s start. - -On my return to Karridale, having some time to spare, I drove out about -a mile to see the Sand Patch, which is a most peculiar place. It is a -tremendous sandhill 100 feet high, a few miles from the sea, and has -slowly moved inland a few inches every year. Tops of trees may be seen -over the summit, looking like bushes. It is 2 miles wide, and can be seen -a long way off at sea. Many sea-captains take their bearings from it. An -attempt has been made to arrest its march by planting 70,000 grass roots -in the direction it takes, so as to stop its advance, but whether the -attempt will succeed will only be proved by time. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - - Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape Leeuwin. - - -The Deepdene Caves were my next place of call, Mr. Bruce kindly driving a -party of us to them, and explaining everything to us in a most agreeable -fashion. I enjoyed the drive so much that I was almost sorry to arrive. -The approach to the caves is through a deep dell, where there is a brook, -called Turner’s Brook. A very quaint old house stood on a slope, and -the high cliffs in the distance looked picturesque. But I could see no -sign of a cave, and when we came to a stop I was still looking for one. -However, Mr. Bruce soon stopped the trap, and we got out and were guided -by him through some dense bush up the hill until we came to a yawning -gulf, like a gigantic chasm. I own to feeling a desire to turn back, -without seeing the caves at all, so forbidding did the approach look, -but pride came to the rescue. It would never do to say I was afraid, -so assuming a valour, though I had it not, I followed my guides, who -had now lit candles and also armed themselves with bundles of blackboy -rushes. We entered the cavern, and I found the chasm not so terrible as -I had anticipated. The first large gallery once had a number of fine -stalactites, but some vandals have torn them away. The path now became -very steep, and I had to cling to jutting stalactites. It was very dark, -the candles had gone out, and the vapours we breathed were not exactly -refreshing; but I had to go on—on—on. I was not sorry when my friends -set light to the friendly blackboys and lightened the darkness. We were -now in a splendid hall, roofed with icicles. There was an almost perfect -opera-box, with lace curtains, carved arm-rest, pillars, and everything -complete. The ground sounded rather hollow; I did not feel comfortable, -so we moved on to another vast cavern, called the King’s Council Chamber. -It was a grand sight. The light, of course, was imperfect, as the cave -is of enormous size, fully 100 feet high. The stalactites hang from the -domed roof like huge crystal lights, and shadows play about the walls, -which look as if festooned with lovely lace. Great seats seem to fill the -cavern in the middle. One could almost imagine a king and queen holding -court there, with all their attendants, and being suddenly turned to -marble. It was all very grand, but I felt glad when I was out in God’s -sunshine again, with the blue sky over my head and the blue sea at my -feet. Darkness and gloom, however grand, do not forcibly appeal to me. - -Various other beautiful caves have been discovered comparatively -recently, and named the Margaret Caves, in compliment to Lady Forrest. - -No beaver ever made a more artful concealment of the entrance to his nest -than the lip of the Wallcliffe Cave. Part some peppermints, push aside -the flowing fronds of ferns and bend low, almost on all-fours, creep -slowly for 30 feet, eyes bent to ground, and then, what a transformation -scene! The fairy grotto of a pantomime, the lustrous lair of the King of -Jewels in the Arabian Nights—these are the only similes that give even a -prosaic idea of it. A circular chamber, richly bedecked by gleaming white -stalactites, with mammoth bunches of grapes, fleecy wefts apparently as -soft as lambs-wool, but solid as marble, and—upspringing from the floor -of the chamber, as if greedy to clutch the fruit, yet frozen in making -the grasp—a monstrous hand several feet long—these are just hints of what -we see. - -[Illustration: A WESTERN AUSTRALIAN CAVE] - -The Warrawerrie or Blackboy Hollow Cave is about 2 miles south of -Wallcliffe, and is a mantrap for the unwary, for if you fall in instead -of using the ladder that the discoverer (Mr. John Bussell) made in order -to sound his find, and was thoughtful enough to leave behind him, you -drop 15 feet. This vertical hole will not take in any one of very round -proportions. So rough and high are the boulders that we scrambled over -on the floor of this cave by the dim, flickering light of a candle, -that we called it “Spion Kop.” It was more than worth the scramble, -however. There is another chamber of this cave that has never been -entered. A broken column, apparently cut from Italian marble, as pure -as alabaster, would make a noble monument for a patriot. There are also -semi-transparent shields which look like snow-white tapestry from an -Indian loom, but which touch shows to be hard as flint. - -While all the caves we saw are worth many times the journey, the most -beautiful is, in my opinion, that known as Doodjijup, a mile south of -Blackboy Hollow, and 100 feet above the slanderously entitled “Devil’s -Pool.” A lady could go through this cave without soiling her dress. You -enter this lovely “bower” from the side of a high limestone ridge and the -commanding situation allows a pretty prospect of water and lea, with the -shimmering streak of the Doodjijup brook in the foreground. The access -to the cave is rather steep and somewhat rugged, but when once the inlet -is gained the labour is rewarded, and the visitor can move at ease and -admire the terraces, the columns like the pipes of a cathedral organ, and -the pendants that glow like the stars of night in the three chambers of -this wondrous arcade. - -Nearly 3 miles south there is a descent of about 100 feet, first through -an enormous pit like the excavation of a quarry, and then by the side -of a limestone cliff, when the “door” of Calgadup Cave is disclosed. -The floor of this cave is moist enough to show that it is the bed of a -subterranean creek; it is about 70 feet across. The chamber sides are -hung with many stalactites of myriad shapes and colours under the rays -of our artificial light. What would be taken in a lady’s boudoir for a -very beautiful opera-cloak of swansdown thrown over the top of a low -pillar stands out in the foreground. This is a stalagmite “growing” -upwards, while the stalactite is formed downwards like the tendrils or -fruit of a vine. Here, too, in my opinion, is the gem of all the caves, -the suspended dome, the delicate tracery of whose splendid and fantastic -fretwork hangs in mid-air, held by almost gossamer crystalline threads. - -A running stream which flows over the bed of Crystal Cave, half a mile -south of Nannup Caves, gives it its name. This cave, of sandstone -formation, is almost a ruin owing to the ravages of marauders and the -falling of karri timber overhead, which have wrought havoc among its -former grandeur. Ascending some 50 or 60 feet another vast chamber is -entered; the dome-shaped roof that is set off by colonnades is cracked, -and to all appearance unsafe. Already this season, although there are -few facilities for visiting the caves or for enjoying the fishing and -shooting of Hardy’s Inlet in the cool climate by the seaside, about 70 -goldfield visitors have equipped themselves at special expense for the -tour, which, I understand, they found highly beneficial, interesting and -enjoyable. - -From the caves we returned to Karridale, and during the pleasant drive -I somewhat recovered from the fatigue of so much cave clambering. The -next morning early I was fortunate in getting a seat in a buggy to Cape -Leeuwin, the first Australian land sighted by mail-boats coming from -England, and the last seen by those that leave for the dear homeland. -I was anxious to see this place and to go up the famous lighthouse. -So off we went, bidding a regretful farewell to the hospitable people -of Karridale. We had a drive of 16 miles before us, but I am never so -happy as when seated behind a good pair of horses and spinning merrily -along. I feel sure that, though thousands of people have seen the cape -and lighthouse from the sea, very few have been so fortunate as I was -in being able to visit it by land. So I felt particularly well pleased -with myself and my trip through the west that day. As we drove along -for 7 miles nothing particular was to be seen, except perhaps that the -forest vegetation seemed to grow more luxuriantly than ever, and in -greater variety; I noticed several kind of trees that I had not seen in -other parts. Then we got occasional gleams of water shining through the -foliage, and the hills around loomed in grandeur to the sky. The trees -seemed to become smaller as we went along; that was because we were -near the coast. A few miles farther on a pretty house on the banks of a -lovely broad sheet of water, the Blackwood estuary, came into view. A -lady, seeing us driving along, came out to meet us, and cordially invited -us into the house to partake of refreshments in the shape of fruit and -fresh milk with hot scones, which had just been baked for the family -lunch, and of which we had arrived in time to partake. The horses were -glad of a little breathing-time, during which I looked round at the scene -before me. Over the broad sheet of placid water wild ducks and swans were -dotted. A fisherman had just come up with a haul of fish, the finest -whiting I have seen for some time, and a tremendous schnapper. In the -distance could be seen the white sandy bar, with its long white breakers -stretching out into the depths of the ocean beyond. What an ideal spot -for a sportsman, a convalescent, or a pair of honeymooners, so quiet, -so peaceful, so beautiful! Mr. Ellis has lived in this place for years, -and will tell you how, 50 years ago, food was almost unobtainable, and -American whalers were looked to for nearly all supplies. It is most -interesting to talk to this gentleman. Governor Broome, Governor Weld, -and Sir Gerard Smith (the late Governor), have visited this place, and -enjoyed Mr. Ellis’s hospitality. We soon passed through the old and once -ill-fated settlement of Augusta, and I wondered why fate was so unkind -to such a charming spot, especially as there is such a natural harbour -as Flinders Bay close by. On we went and reached Point Matthew. Now we -were near the corner where two great oceans meet. On we drove to the -edge of the peninsula and soon arrived at Cape Leeuwin, and its fine -lighthouse. In 1867 the coast east of Cape Leeuwin was called Nuyts Land -from a passenger on board the _Guilde Zeepart_, or Good Shepherd, on her -voyage to Japan. Cape Leeuwin, or Lioness, was so named in 1822, after -the vessel from which it was first seen, or, as others say, because the -cape standing at the corner of the two oceans, with the breakers dashing -round, seemed like a lioness defending her home. Be this as it may, I -came here, and was delighted. Years ago, during a heavy storm, I was a -passenger in a sailing barque loaded with pearl shell that was blown out -to sea 600 miles beyond Cape Leeuwin, but we safely weathered the storm -and I live to tell the tale. Since that time I have always had strong -recollections of this particular cape. - -As we drove up the lighthouse stood before us like a sentinel guarding -the seas. We were now on that corner of our continent where the Indian -and Southern Oceans meet. Right on the southern point at the foot of the -high bare hills, and 700 feet above the sea, stands the white lighthouse -and its shining dome, the building of which was an event of national -importance. It was a solemn and magnificent sight. To-day the sea was -beautifully calm, but sometimes the breakers roar and lash the strong -lighthouse in their fury; then mariners have to beware of the Lioness -and to keep at a safe and civil distance. The base is 70 feet above -high water-mark, the foundations are deep down to bed rock, 23 feet. -The building was erected by Messrs. Davies and Wishart, and cost £6000, -exclusive of the dome and light. The handsome white stone of which it -is built was all quarried half a mile away. The walls are 7 feet in -thickness on the ground-floor. To get to the top we had to mount a spiral -iron staircase, broken at intervals by 7 floors. These breaks give one -time to breathe and comment on the peculiar sensation of mounting to -the top of a lighthouse; strange it is certainly, but I would not on -any account have missed it. A heavy iron column goes down the centre to -hold the chain and the three-quarters of a ton weight propelling the -clockwork that causes the light to revolve. It takes 7 gallons of oil -each night to keep this burning. Mr. Tattersall, the head keeper, was -most attentive and kind in explaining all this to me. On the fifth floor -is the telephone connected with the men’s quarters and with the Karridale -Post Office, from which all messages are forwarded by telegraph. Here -also observations are taken every two hours and recorded. Down the wall -there is a lightning conductor. The lighting apparatus is on the sixth -floor, and is a wonderful piece of mechanical work. The operative power -is clockwork, and the light reflected is equal to 250,000 candles. The -flash is sighted fully 30 miles out from land on a clear night. Are -not the improvements in lighthouses since the days when little Grace -Darling stood on her bible to reach the lamp that lighted the shipwrecked -mariners to safety truly wonderful? - -[Illustration: LIGHTHOUSE (OLD AND NEW)] - -I must confess to feeling very giddy in the head when I stepped on the -balcony outside the dome, but it was the grandest sight of my tour. On -the north side was Hamelin Bay, on the east the mouth of the beautiful -Blackwood, and the many little islands, reefs and rocks, lying at our -feet; also Cumberland Island; while away on the land side stretches the -vast forest with its millions of giant trees, combining to form a picture -not easily forgotten. - -The lighthouse-keepers, of whom there are six, work four hours each and -are then relieved. They report every ship that passes, and wind up the -clockwork weights every hour. Coming down to _terra firma_ again, and -before leaving this grand piece of man’s work, I read the following -inscription on a huge block of stone: “Foundation-stone laid by Sir John -Forrest, Premier of the Colony, 13th December 1895.” And on the other -side: “Dedicated to the World’s Mariners, 10th December 1896.” - -Outside are some comfortable-looking stone cottages, where the -lighthouse-keepers live. My only feeling of regret as I left was that -Leeuwin Lighthouse is not more accessible, so that many people could take -the same enjoyable tour that I had taken; but time may change even this -cape’s inaccessibility. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - - Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The - Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The - Show. - - -There is without doubt a great field in Western Australia for workers -who will settle on the land and cultivate it. Newcastle is a little -town, nestling at the foot of hills and beautifully situated near the -Avon river. It is a splendid farming district; the soil will grow almost -everything. I saw some magnificent oranges and vegetables. The cattle are -as fat and sleek as can be. Rain had been falling when I was there, and -now the sun was shining and a beautiful rainbow rose over the hills. The -pink everlasting flowers—acres of them—surrounded by the green grass, the -pretty winding river, the white bridges and long good roads made up a -very pleasant picture. There is plenty of good land around here waiting -to be taken up and utilised. Newcastle is one of the oldest Westralian -towns, and the roads and bridges were nearly all made by convict labour -in days gone by. There is a great quantity of stone lying about, and -granite is obtainable in large quantities a little way off. There are -vineyards and orchards, and an elderly woman at the Clackline Junction -Station seemed to be doing a good trade with an enormous basket of -splendid oranges and bunches of pink everlasting flowers. She came across -the meadows and joined the train at Delmore on the way to Newcastle a boy -helping her with the big basket of oranges just gathered from the trees. -She told me she came to meet all the trains and invariably did good -business. - -[Illustration: NEWCASTLE] - -Gold was found about here in 1887 by Mr. Glass, of Mugakine, who found a -piece weighing 11 grains while digging a well. The ground about the hills -is very rocky, but the flats are fertile and favourable for fruit-trees -and vines, and there is plenty of water in ponds; Mr. Clarkson, in the -early days, found sandstone ranges rising 1000 feet; small rivers fall -between these ranges into the sea. - -New Norcia, the Benedictine’s Mission settlement, is situated on the -Victoria plains, about 50 miles from Newcastle by road, and 80 miles to -the north of Perth. You can also go to New Norcia by taking the train -to Mogumbur on the Cue line, and thence driving 15 miles to New Norcia. -Here the late good Bishop Salvado, laboured amongst the aboriginals for -over half a century, and died at over 85. The religious community numbers -about 60 monks, most of whom are Spanish. The Abbey is called Abbey -Nullias, and there are a cruciform church of stone, a monastery, and 51 -other buildings. Over 1000 acres of land are cleared and fenced, 800 are -under cultivation, and 150 aboriginals are clothed and educated by the -monks. The object of these good men of the Mission is to civilise and -christianise the natives. Bishop Salvado describes his first interview -with the aboriginals thus: “I tried to begin a conversation by signs -with these poor Australians, so hideous to view, though mild and almost -timid; but all that they would say was ‘Maragna’ (food).” In 1846, Father -Salvado and Father Serra, with a few catechists, were guided by some -natives to the site which is now called New Norcia. Fifty acres of land -had been granted them by the Colonial Government, and thus was laid the -foundation of this now well-known and flourishing settlement. In 1848 -the first R.C. Bishop of Perth, Dr. Brady, sent Father Serra to Europe -to obtain subscriptions and more missionaries for New Norcia, and 1250 -acres of land were purchased by him with the collections obtained in this -way from Europe. In 1849 Father Salvado went to Europe, taking with him -two native Christian boys. There he collected large sums of money, and on -his return a number of missionaries, competent in agriculture and trade, -returned with him, thus giving new life to the Mission, where they built -a chapel, cottages, corn and granary mills, wooden houses, workshops, -and quarters for natives. The land was soon cleared by these good and -energetic men, assisted by the aborigines whom they had befriended, and -to-day one can look around the Mission and see happiness, prosperity, and -contentment on all sides. All the aborigines now there are civilised, -but, for years before they became so, they looked on the Bishop as a god -who possessed superhuman knowledge, especially in doctoring the sick. One -native whom he had relieved leaped and danced, and shouted war-cries, -and said: “Father, when you die I shall be so sorry that I shall kill, -not only one man of the enemy’s tribe, but six kangaroo-hunters, to show -everybody the love I have for you.” Many years have passed away, and -if you now visit New Norcia you will see 1000 acres of fields, stocked -with sheep and cattle; a most prosperous agricultural settlement; corn -in abundance; barley, hay, vegetables, tobacco, and acres of vineyard, -from which a wine, said by those who have sampled it to be excellent, is -made. Fine olives are grown; olive oil, pure and clear, is made; candied -almonds, figs, raisins, grapes, and apples are in profusion. The Bishop’s -only luxury was snuff, grown at the Mission, which is very aromatic and -provocative of much sneezing. Almost everything required and used is -made and produced on the spot. The aborigines learn quickly and are most -devout Christians. The Mission has a brass band of natives, who have been -well trained, and their efforts are most pleasing. - -Bishop Salvado was in Perth a few months ago, and received a warm welcome -from all creeds and classes; he was then on his way to Rome, in which -city he recently passed away. - -Progressive Northam, the gateway of the goldfields, in the lovely Avon -Valley, was the scene of my next visit. The green undulating fields -through which I passed in the train on my approach to Northam showed a -perfect blaze of wild flowers in every spot where there was room for -them to spring between the well-cultivated farm lands. The rich soil -of this beautiful valley is quite different from the deep sandy soil -near the coast, or from the loam and ironstone of the ranges of the -Darling. Quantities of water are always obtainable by shallow sinking, -should other supplies fail. The fat cattle always seem to be waiting -to accumulate wealth for their owners, and the comfortable-looking -farmhouses impress one with the idea of solid comfort within. Northam -has a population of 2000 people, is increasing fast, and prospering more -than any other agricultural district in Western Australia; and being the -starting-point of the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, Mount Malcolm and -Mount Margaret goldfields, is really the threshold of the fields, as well -as the great centre of the agricultural industry in this part of the -colony. - -A large staff of railway men is employed in the locomotive department, -over 400 men being paid every fortnight at Northam. The railway platform -is half a mile long, and I believe a magnificent railway station will -shortly further improve the town. - -Northam has gone ahead with gigantic strides. On my first visit, a little -over two years ago, it was a very small place indeed, in fact two places, -as I found to my sorrow when I got out of the train at the wrong station -(there are both East and West Northam) and had to walk a mile and a half -up a desolate country road to get to my destination. Now houses, shops, -banks, &c., are built nearly all along that road, and omnibuses ply from -one end of the town to the other. Northam bids fair to become one of the -most important towns in Western Australia. - -There are some charming estates about here, notably that of the Hon. -George Throssell, late Commissioner of Crown Lands, and now Premier -since Sir John Forrest relinquished office. Mr. Throssell might almost -be described as the father of Northam. He has resided in what he so -poetically describes as his lovely valley home for 36 years, and it is -chiefly due to his strenuous exertions, the devotion of his energies to -its development, and his manly spirit of help to all, that Northam is -what it is to-day. Mr. Throssell goes home to Northam after his week’s -official work every Friday and remains until Tuesday in the company -of his wife and numerous and happy family of sons, daughters, and -grandchildren. This grand old man has a large and important business in -Northam in conjunction with Mr. Stewart, and branches in different parts -of the colony as well. The machinery stores are well worth inspection. -Every possible kind of English and American machinery for tilling the -soil is here to be seen. The drill and fertiliser now coming into use -make farming a pastime and pleasure, instead of the weariness and hard -work of past ages. With these new implements of agriculture, 600 acres of -land can be drilled with only 20 lb. of wheat to the acre, in place of 75 -lb., as in olden days. - -Many new implements were going out to the Jenapullen ploughing-match, -a few miles away, for trial that day; so, availing myself of the offer -of a drive there, I started off to see this match. The pastoral country -appeared very thriving as we drove along by the beautiful River Avon, and -the richness of the soil gave ample promise of the harvest to come. Bush -flowers were growing all round, native grasses were flourishing in wild -luxuriance, healthy green crops were waving in the gentle breeze, giving -promise of a most abundant yield and adding beauty to the surrounding -scene. - -On arrival at the ploughing-field, I found many kinds of entertainments -going on as well as the ploughing, which I was sure was very splendid, -although I did not understand the art. There was a fine collection of -vegetables, bread, butter, fruit, and many other things; also some very -splendid horses, bred in the district. After the ploughing-match was -over, the folks amused themselves with jumping, running, and pony races. -Every one looked prosperous, happy and contented, and no doubt was so, -for there are many well established farmers in this fertile district, who -long ago secured for themselves a position of independence. - -[Illustration: AVON RIVER] - -What a future lies before this wheat-growing district! One of the most -prominent townsmen of Northam says that more wheat has been produced -there than in any other part of the colony. Many farmers are also -thinking of raising pigs, to be turned into the toothsome bacon. Mr. -Throssell told me that there are big openings for bacon-curing, as the -quantity of bacon and ham imported to Western Australia last year was -very large. - -The Department of Agriculture is doing good work, and experts are sent -out into the different farming districts to teach the benefits of mixed -farming to persons not already acquainted with them, and any one who -wants advice on the management of vineyards, orchards and farms can, by -writing to the Department, have an expert sent at once. - -There is also scope for the establishment of a butter and cheese factory -here. This valley of the Avon is an ideal spot for a large dairy, and -might have thousands of sleek cows grazing on the rich pastures, and -hundreds of rosy-cheeked dairymaids turning sweet cream into butter and -cheese for the dusty goldseekers. - -Northam has a fine town hall, some handsome churches, a convent, -magnificent post-office, and many beautiful mansions and villas standing -in fine grounds with nice gardens. Many of the favourite English flowers -flourish here. Roses, honeysuckle, geraniums, and mignonette grow very -fine in this soil, and the flowers indigenous to the colony bloom in -sweet and infinite variety. The splendour of Western Australian flowers -cannot be imagined by those who have not seen it. Their dainty delicate -odours are unsurpassable, and if people in other lands only knew of our -glorious wealth of flowers, I am sure they would be anxious to obtain -seeds and cultivate the lovely blossoms. - -Coming from one of the splendid homesteads around Northam, I passed a -wheatfield in the valley that extended farther than my eye could reach. -Oats grow to perfection. One farmer in the valley, who has a field of 90 -acres, last year harvested as much as 36 bushels to the acre; barley is -also grown with great success. - -Our young country has a chance of great and lasting prosperity for -population increases and new people settle on the rich lands to cultivate -them. Mr. Throssell says: “We look forward to seeing our harbour filled -with ships laden with not only gold, timber, pearl shell and wool -products of the colony, but also with golden grain, wine and fruit.” Our -Agent-General in London, Sir E. Wittenoom, recently said at a dinner in -Paris: “There is something fascinating in the phenomena of the rise of -this new colony of Western Australia, which 10 years ago, with an area -equal to nearly half that of Europe, had only the population of the Isle -of Man. Gold reefs were discovered, and the population advanced with -great strides in less than 4 years from 50,000 to 186,000.” - - - - -[Illustration: Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - - Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking - on Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato - Ground—Bayley’s Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great - Boulder Find—The Londonderry. - - -Lake Polaris, or Southern Cross, was so called by the Phœnix party of -prospectors, who, owing to an accidental discovery of gold by Mr. Ansty -at Mugakine in 1887, determined thoroughly to prospect the country from -Newcastle and the Yilgarn hills. Their first discovery of payable reefs -was named Golden Valley, and, as would be supposed from the name, the -reefs were rich. Travelling by night, guided by the Southern Cross, the -party went on, and 30 miles farther on found reefs still richer on the -site of what is now called Southern Cross. Two of the prospectors were -eventually lost in the Bush, and their mates, taking a black fellow for -tracking, followed their tracks, mostly in circles, for 30 miles, and at -last found the two poor fellows dead, doubtless from thirst, as they were -without clothing, which is always a sign of that terrible death. - -Southern Cross was destined to become in a short time a most important -place in Australian history, although it did not become the talk of the -world, as Coolgardie afterwards did. It was from Southern Cross that the -news of the magnificent discovery of Bayley’s Reward and the other rich -finds at Coolgardie came. From the time when Mr. Colreavy, of the Phœnix -party, first found Golden Valley until now, the finds of gold on the -Coolgardie goldfields have been without parallel in Australian history. -Fraser’s Mine, Southern Cross, paid the first dividend received from any -mine in Western Australia. Captain Oats, one of the most genial men in -the West, is the legal manager for Fraser’s Mine. - -When the train came to a stop on our arrival at the Cross, as it is now -usually called, I must confess that I was not much attracted by the -appearance of the place, for anything more dreary-looking one could not -well see. Imagine a sandy desert, with here and there a stunted-looking -tree, a string of camels, with Afghan guides, some bare-looking houses, -and a few mines with poppet-heads standing out like crosses against the -sky. That is Southern Cross. The train stops at 7 A.M. for 40 minutes for -breakfast, and, after travelling from five o’clock the previous night, -one feels inclined for hot coffee at least. I hurried across to the -hotel, and after partaking of a really excellent breakfast, felt a little -more friendly to the place, and had my luggage taken off the train with -the intention of stopping here a day to make inquiries. After a two-hours -rest I started off to see Fraser’s Mine, and then found that I had to -walk half a mile in order to reach the town, the part where the hotel is -being only the railway portion of it. Across flat uninteresting ground -affording very scanty herbage to a few grazing goats, I came at last to -the town proper, which is one fairly long street and two cross ones, of -little houses and shops. I here presented my letter of introduction to -the mayor, who, with his wife, was most hospitable; and, in fact, I found -that, in spite of the dreary-looking surroundings, Southern Cross was -not a bad place after all, and that there were a great many nice genial -people living there. Fraser’s Mine is another two miles on. Nothing -much is to be seen, but close to the mine is a small empty house. It -is the house formerly inhabited by the notorious Deeming (who murdered -and cemented three wives and four children), in which he had stored -the cement in readiness for a new grave for his next wife when he was -stopped by his arrest. I looked inside with a kind of morbid interest, -remembering well the stir there was in Melbourne at the time when this -terrible man committed his last awful crime. - -When one thinks of the hardships people had to endure when gold was -first discovered in this desert, and when water was scarce and food -still more so, one feels that they deserved all the money and gold they -got.[2] It then took four days to get to the Cross from York and Northam, -and the Bush roads were terrible. One party of fifty Victorian miners -started from Albany on foot, on what was known as Holland’s Track, and -after undergoing terrible privations, 35 of them reached the Cross in -safety. Holland’s Track is so called from the following circumstances: -John Holland and party set out from Brown Hill, 103 miles from Albany, -to reach Coolgardie _viâ_ Southern Cross, the distance being nearly 350 -miles. They paid £50 for three horses and a conveyance. Their road was -through an almost impenetrable bush. Holland’s way of finding the road -was to ride ahead, the team having instructions to follow his tracks. He -then made observations from the highest points, and was enabled to judge -many miles ahead the nature of the country before him and the probable -whereabouts of water. In this respect he was singularly successful. He -would then take his bearings, retrace his tracks, and lead the team -in as direct a line as possible to the place. The length of the track -cut was 230 miles. The greatest portion of this was through country -unexplored, and 130 miles were traversed without encountering tracks of -any description, save that of an occasional emu. There were many high -granite rocks in the country, one of such height and extent—200 feet—that -they named it King Rock. On investigation a splendid supply of water was -found on the top of this, and at the base there is a salt-water lake 2 -miles in circumference. - -Another party started overland from Adelaide to the Western Australian -goldfields, and went through hardships that can be better imagined than -described. The course taken was from Port Augusta along the west coast to -Israelite Bay, thence to Fraser Range and Southern Cross. The track ran -through dense forests and sand plains, where little exists save stunted -herbage, which not even a camel could eat, every bush on these plains -being armed with thorns. The party camped about 6 miles from Southern -Cross on the only decent patch of pasture for 100 miles. - -A Bendigo miner, with his party, started from Narrogin, beyond Broome -Hill, for Southern Cross. After going 15 miles they got bogged twice -on the road, the horses being in the bog to their knees and the dray -to the axle. The second time the men had to carry all their things on -their backs. Next day they had to cut away with an axe big trees that -had fallen across the track. Another day they camped 100 miles from the -Cross, and on getting up early found the horses gone. After a long search -of 15 miles, during which time they had nothing to eat, they finally -found them. Next day the party set out again, and after 25 miles the axle -broke and the dray became a total wreck; they then waited coming events, -and luckily a teamster came along and took some of their things. The rest -they had to leave behind. They arrived at Southern Cross after three -weeks travelling. - -[Illustration: TEAMS RETURNED TO SOUTHERN CROSS FROM COOLGARDIE] - -These are a few of the experiences of the early days of the Golden West. -After such experiences Southern Cross, no doubt, seemed an oasis in the -desert. Who will say these poor men did not deserve success? I truly hope -they got it. It was five years after the discovery of Southern Cross that -Coolgardie was discovered by Arthur Bayley, who had formerly been working -at the Cross, but afterwards went to Nannine and took 1000 ounces of -gold from a claim there; then returned to the Southern Cross in 1892, -started from that place prospecting, eventually finding Coolgardie. - -People who were here in 1892 tell me that when the news came of Bayley’s -find the excitement was indescribable. Southern Cross was almost -deserted. Coolgardie lies about 120 miles from the Cross, and along the -track were to be seen men in scores, using every means of locomotion -conceivable. Some were lucky enough to get teamsters to carry their -swags; others had to carry them on their backs; others, again, had -pack-horses; some had what is called a “one-wheeler” cart. The wheel is -fixed underneath, in the centre is a frame or miniature platform, on -which the goods and swags are placed; four men take hold, one at each -corner, and a start is made. One enterprising man pushed in front of him -an ordinary beer cask, which he had rigged up to resemble a miniature -road-roller. His goods were on top and he was in the shafts. Other -adventurous spirits had their goods in wheelbarrows, which they drove -through the heavy sand. Camels sometimes crossed as much as 22 miles of -sand plain at a stretch, getting one meal at the end. As pack-camels only -travel at the rate of 2½ miles an hour, such a journey would occupy the -whole of the daylight, then the Afghan drivers would let the camels lie -down until the moon rose; then on again in search of food, until at 7 in -the morning perhaps they were lucky enough to find some salt-bush on the -shores of a salt lake. - -At the stores at Southern Cross in those days you would see all sorts and -conditions of men coming for their provisions. New chums with white soft -hands would sometimes appear on their way to the goldfields. Those poor -hands would look very different after their owners had put in a month on -the burning sands of the mines. - -The railway to Coolgardie from Southern Cross was begun in 1894 and -opened soon afterwards. - -[Illustration: Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross] - -It was with feelings of curiosity that I viewed the desert-looking -country as the train approached the world-famed place. It is nearly -always in waste, arid, and uninteresting places that gold is found. As -the train drew up at the spacious station and I stepped out on to the -wide platforms, where some hundreds of people were waiting, I looked -round me and said to myself: “Am I really at the famous Coolgardie at -last, the Queen Gold City of the West?” I took a cab—dozens of them were -waiting—and drove to Summers’ Hotel, where apartments had been reserved -for me, and with a sigh of contentment gave myself up to the thought of -thoroughly inspecting this famed place. After a very good dinner, with -white-waistcoated waiters in attendance, and with every elegance and -comfort that could be suggested, I took my coffee on the broad balcony -overlooking Bayley Street. I found several people who were here in the -early days, and who gave me all the information I desired about the past -and the present. The first thing that struck me in Coolgardie was, “What -a splendid lot of men there are here!” They were, indeed, unusually tall, -stalwart, and good-looking. And why not? The pick of the Australian -colonies, the flower of our manhood, were here seeking for gold. Next -I was struck by the fine wide streets, lit with electric light, the -handsome buildings, and, lastly, the beautiful horses to be seen in cabs -or carts, or ridden by horsemen. It is wonderful to view this city of -the Golden West which was so recently a desert of sand, mulga-trees, -and scrub, where an occasional emu or kangaroo was monarch of all he -surveyed; where Sir John Forrest and his party of explorers twice camped, -little dreaming of the wealth of gold lying beneath their feet. - -The facts about the finding of Coolgardie are thus given in Mr. Bayley’s -own narrative: “One morning before breakfast, while going after horses, -I picked up a nugget weighing half an ounce, and before dinner found 20 -more ounces in the same way. We had left Southern Cross three months -previously, prospecting, in consequence of the report of Mr. Hardman, the -Government geologist, who had issued a map showing the places where gold -was most likely to be found, and had not found any gold of consequence -until now. The spot where we made the first find was about 200 miles from -the present Reward Claim. In about a month, by specking and a little dry -blowing, our gold consisted of about 200 ounces. Our rations ran out and -we made tracks to Southern Cross, but went back to the old workings, and -on Sunday afternoon, while fossiking around, we struck the reef. That -evening we picked up about 50 ounces of gold, and on Monday we pegged out -a prospecting area on the reef. That morning a party of three men came on -the scene. They had followed us from Southern Cross. That day we obtained -300 ounces from the cap of the reef. The party who had followed us stole -about 200 ounces from our claim, so we had to report it. For that purpose -I went into the Cross, carrying 554 ounces, which I showed to the Warden. -The field was then declared open. After another two days we collected -another lot of gold, amounting to 528 ounces. I conveyed them to Southern -Cross, and a fortnight after returning to the field had to make another -trip there, escorting 642 ounces. All we found was right on the surface, -and all we did was to knock the stuff out and dolly it with a pestle -and mortar. There were six cartloads of tailings left. After the gold -referred to had been extracted from the quantity of stuff, we obtained a -further amount of 298 ounces. We got a little over 2000 ounces altogether -out of the claim. We only had a five-acre lease of the Reward Claim.” - -The news of the unprecedented richness of Bayley’s Find had long ere -this found its way over the entire world. Shortly after the goldfield -was proclaimed, and when the enormous richness of Bayley’s Reward Claim -was flashed all over the Australian continent, Mr. Sylvester Browne, of -Melbourne, a brother to Mr. T. Browne (better known as Rolf Boldrewood, -author of the famous Australian book, “Robbery under Arms”), travelled -to Coolgardie and, after making an examination of the property, bought -the Reward Claim from Bayley and Ford for £6000 and a sixth share in the -mine. The bargain completed, Mr. Sylvester Browne and some three or four -other gentlemen (mostly connections of his) set to work with their own -hands, and with no other tools but picks, shovels, hammers, and an iron -dolly, extracted the enormous quantity of 9000 ounces, or £36,000 worth -of gold, in a few weeks. On April 8, 1893, a parcel of 2500 ounces, worth -£10,000, arrived in Perth, and was lodged in the Union Bank. Then, on -June 7, 3185 ounces more were received by this bank and exhibited, and -on September 6 a third lot of 3605 ounces were deposited by Mr. Everard -Browne on behalf of Bayley’s Reward Company, and, finally, during the -Christmas holidays, a trophy, valued at £30,000, was gazed upon by -admiring crowds at the office of the bank. The trophy is a stirring -sight. It consists of 7000 ounces of smelted gold and 600 or 700 ounces -of rich quartz specimens, and everybody, from the Governor downwards, has -been to see it. This gold was taken from a depth of only 40 feet, while -some of the biggest nuggets at Ballarat, Victoria, were found more than -1000 feet below the surface. It is now placed beyond all doubt that our -golden reefs are what is termed “permanent,” a fact which pessimists, -both in and out of the colony, have until now been loath to admit. - -[Illustration: BAYLEY’S REWARD MINE—UNDERLAY SHAFT] - -Facts are stubborn things, and an ounce of experience is worth a ton of -theory. Here was a mine which in a few months yielded over,£80,000. The -following is an extract from a Perth newspaper:— - -“The cry from Coolgardie is still of astounding discoveries of such rich -gold-bearing rock as mankind has never known before. There is actually -being exhibited at Counsel’s Stores a lump of gold and stone weighing a -little over two hundredweight, in which, it was estimated by experts, -there was nearly a hundredweight and a half of the precious metal. It -looks as if the time were within reasonable distance when _Punch’s_ old -prophecy would be realised, and the Cheapside hawkers be seen going about -with gold snuff-boxes and a ha’porth of snuff for a penny.” - -One of the prospectors wrote thus: “I left the field at the end of -January last, when things were at their earliest stage, and even then -phenomenal finds were of daily occurrence. I remember one evening -particularly when the whole camp was thrown into a furore of excitement -owing to three men coming in with a gunny sack full of quartz some 60 lb. -in weight (I saw and handled the stone myself), and before the evening -they had dollied 150 ounces from it. At Adams’ Reef, 25 miles north of -Bayley’s, I saw tons of stone on which the gold was sticking in small -nuggets. There was one place we christened the Potato Ground, owing to -the large size of the nuggets picked up there. - -“On Sundays, by way of rest, picks and shovels were abandoned, and almost -every one in the camp went out for an afternoon’s specking (looking on -the ground for nuggets). Before leaving Coolgardie I had the pleasure of -seeing over Bayley’s Reef. I shall never forget the sight; it settled my -career, and I do not think I shall ever follow any avocation but that -of a miner; for there on this reef, instead of, as one usually sees in -an ordinarily rich reef, specks and perhaps here and there nuggets of -gold—on Bayley’s there were veins, in fact, literally outstanding bars of -gold. So much so that if Mr. Bayley had given me leave to do an hour’s -work on it and take the results, my trip to the old country and back to -Western Australia would have cost me nothing, and I warrant I could have -had a pretty good time too.” - -Arthur Bayley did not live long to enjoy the wealth he acquired through -his discovery, as he died at Melbourne in 1897, at the early age of -34 years. Gold-mining will trouble him no more. The handsome city of -Coolgardie remains a monument to his memory. - -Many other reefs had by this time been discovered by various parties at -different distances from Coolgardie, one notably big and rich one at the -90-Mile, called the “Roaring Gimlet.” No stores or provisions lay that -way, consequently great privations had to be endured. However, those who -managed to remain got surprisingly rich stone on the surface. Here the -quartz was quite white and barren looking, but, on sinking, rich alluvial -gold was found at the rate of 250 ounces to the ton. Half-way to the -90-Mile, at what they call the 45-Mile, surprisingly rich results were -also obtained. - -The camp at Bayley’s was at this time a scene of intense excitement; 3000 -men were on the field. Such a collection of habitations was never before -seen—blanket-shelters, bush-humpies, and tents covered the ground; men -were digging, specking, dry blowing, and knapping every bit of available -quartz. Then provisions and water got scarce; famine was feared, and many -of the miners had to move on. “Water, water, everywhere, but not a drop -to drink.” Many a poor parched prospector on the weary tramp has said -this, and many explorers in this vast country have given the same cry. No -water—this is the terror of the Australian desert, more deadly than wild -beasts or savages in other countries. As the dragon in olden days guarded -the gate of the Hesperides wherein grew the golden apples, so thirst, -famine and fever seemed at first to guard Nature’s treasure-house. -Civilisation and engineering have now greatly diminished these terrors, -and in the new Eldorado large cities have arisen where once was an -inhospitable desert. - -The marvellous City of Kalgoorlie stands on the site of Hannan’s Find. - -Twelve months after the finding of Coolgardie an important discovery -was made 24 miles away in a north-easterly direction. About 150 miners -had set out to search for some lost prospectors near Yerilla. They were -compelled by lack of water to halt, and actually camped on the spot -where the find was afterwards made! Rain fell and the main body went -forward and continued their search, but two of the party, named Hannan -and Harrigan, remained, and stumbled on what has since proved to be the -richest field the world has ever known. They had begun specking, and -obtained nearly 100 ounces in a few days. As gold is worth nearly £4 per -ounce, that was good work. They returned to Coolgardie, reported the -find, and secured an area equal to 10 alluvial claims. Nearly 2000 men -followed them on their return to the find, most of whom remained there. -It would be impossible to tell in words the value and marvellous richness -of this new Eldorado. Nine thousand ounces of gold were taken from 4 tons -of stone at Hannan’s mine, and other claims of 50 feet square yielded 400 -and 500 ounces of gold each. Some of the prospectors were new chums, and -had never been on a goldfield before. One who knew nothing of mining sunk -his shaft by sheer luck fair on the gold. Hundreds of practical diggers -had walked over the ground before, little thinking that the ironstone -gravel was so rich in the precious metal and that they were passing over -thousands of ounces. Another man dollied (that is, crushed by hand labour -with a heavy weight) 650 ounces in three weeks, the only implements -being half a bottle of quicksilver and the head of a pick. Many a time -these prospectors of the gold country have felt that a spring of fresh -water and a few loaves of bread would be more welcome to them than all -the gleaming gold they were getting. Under what trials did they work! No -water to wash the dirt, and yet the ground so moist that they had to dry -the dirt before they could blow it to find the gold; yet they persevered, -and many found fortunes by hard work and persistence. No wonder many -miners say that gold-mining is not so easy as falling off a log. - -An Adelaide syndicate at this time sent Messrs. W. G. Brookman and -Pearce, with a capital of only £150, out of which passages, camels, and -rations had to be found, to prospect around this marvellous new find, -which they did with such success that they discovered a still more -wonderful place 3 miles from Hannan’s Find, and now called the Boulder. -Their find has since proved the greatest of all. The first claim was -called the Great Boulder, and the property included two ironstone hills, -one 100 yards long by 50 feet wide; the other twice that size. These -hills were covered with rich stones, the prospectors picking them up from -all parts, and Mr. Pearce picked up several large slugs (nuggets) at the -foot of the hill. They afterwards took up several more claims, and soon -found these to contain enormous gold-bearing reefs. Messrs. Brookman and -Pearce, by keeping to the old adage, that “a still tongue makes a wise -head,” remained undisturbed, and were able to take up all the ground they -wanted. Lake View Consols, Ivanhoe Associated, and other rich mines were -taken up by this little syndicate, and are now valued at £21,000,000. Mr. -Brookman, as you may suppose, is now one of the millionaires of Western -Australia. - -The next great find was the Londonderry, in May 1894, when thousands of -ounces were dollied out from the surface. Lord Fingall bought out the -claim for an interest and £180,000 cash. Then followed the Wealth of -Nations, from whose first find was taken an enormous quantity of gold -and specimens worth £20,000. This claim was soon bought up for £150,000. -The inevitable rush to both these places followed. The men all seemed -to run mad in their thirst for gold. It was at this time that almost -everything showing gold was snapped up and put on the London market. -Stories savouring of the Arabian Nights were in free circulation, and -thousands of people from all parts of the world began to flock to -Western Australia, which from comparative obscurity has now become the -greatest gold-mining country the world has ever seen, and, no doubt, the -interior of this vast country holds an almost inexhaustible quantity of -gold-bearing quartz, which in years to come, when railways and other -appliances have made it easier to reach the far-off fields, will be -discovered and used. We may see such marvellous discoveries of gold -that “Golden Western Australia” will be the fitting name for the once -neglected Cinderella of the colonies. - - - - -[Illustration: Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - - Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting - a Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward Mine—Bonnie - Vale—Londonderry—Nearly Lost—King Solomon’s Mine—Hampton Plains. - - -At 9 o’clock in the morning after my arrival in the Golden City, I stood -gazing in amazement at a string of 135 camels, with numerous baby camels, -such funny-looking creatures, walking by their mothers! The Afghan -leaders came crying “Hoostah,” and their Indian dresses and huge turbans -made a most picturesque sight for eyes that had before only seen the -like in pictures, or, yes, one, I think, at the Melbourne “Zoo.” Then -another camel came trotting or galloping with a European on its back, who -seemed as much at home as on a horse. I am told camel-riding gives one -a sea-sick feeling. I have never tried the experiment of a ride, though -several ladies on the fields have done so. To look at the camel you would -think a step-ladder required to mount one, but it is not so, as the camel -kneels down and allows you to get on his back; you then cling on tight, -while he proceeds to get up, which he does with an awful jerk, at the -same time making a peculiar bellowing noise, which sent me away to a good -distance. When I tell you that a camel’s hind legs will reach any part -of him, over his head, round his chest, and on to his hump, and that he -has the unpleasant habit of shooting out his legs without warning, and -also that his neck is of the same pliancy, you will not wonder that the -“ship of the desert” has no charm for me. The camel is the great beast -of burden of Western Australia; the first were brought as an experiment -to the West by two Hindoo traders; these animals quickly came into -favour in the waterless districts, and now there are thousands of them -carrying supplies to the different parts of the colony. They are very -obedient to their Afghan masters, but it is difficult for a white man -ever to obtain great influence over them; they never seem to take kindly -to white people. A string of these useful but ungainly animals is led -by one of their own species, a string passing through a peg in the nose -of every camel in the train, and keeping them in a line. The headgear -of a leading camel is a gay affair; a network of fancy coloured wool -with many a bright-hued tassel and white shells, finished off with blue -and red beads. The Afghans are very careful and proud of their “leading -gentleman.” - -[Illustration: EARLY DAYS, COOLGARDIE] - -Taking a drive round Coolgardie I was much surprised at the size of -the place. It is four miles square. Driving out to the racecourse we -passed the recreation-ground. As it was Saturday, many of the boys of -the town were playing cricket. We passed through the suburb of Toorak. -Certainly there are no fine mansions; for the most part the places -are Hessian camps with occasional tents, but there are also some very -comfortable-looking wooden cottages, many with praiseworthy attempts at -ornamentation, painted light green, and not at all unpleasing to the eye -in this sandy and desert-looking country. There are no large trees here -at all, a few medium-sized ones, and plenty of mulga scrub and salt-bush, -which looks most dry and uninviting, but contains much nourishment, so -that sheep and cattle thrive well on it, and mulga is almost the only -food of the camel. Returning to Coolgardie, we passed through the town -again and crossed the railway bridge to the other chief suburb, Montana. -Here we saw the fine residence of Warden Finnerty, and the hospital, -called John of God. On we went past the suburb along the road to the -famed Londonderry. The country just here was very pretty; there is a deep -gully on one side with a good deal of vegetation, which, after all the -sand and mulga, was most pleasing to the eye. The sun was just setting, -and the brilliant red of the sky seemed to cast a reflection on the -earth. The mines in the background, with the tents scattered round, a -camel-train along the bush, and the town in the distance, formed a unique -picture. Returning we took another direction, past the oldest part of the -town, and past the Afghans’ camp. The day’s work was done and hundreds of -camels were lying down or munching the mulga. The Afghans were preparing -their evening meal and chattering to one another in shrill voices. I -soon saw quite enough of this part, and was not sorry to return to my -comfortable quarters at the hotel. - -The population of Coolgardie and the immediate neighbourhood is at the -present time about 13,000; a few years ago there were more than twice -that number, most of whom have gone to the Kalgoorlie and other fields, -as the enormous richness of Coolgardie is now a thing of the past, -although many mines are still yielding well. - -There is a really splendid post-office, also a court-house and warden’s -offices, recently finished. These are three of the finest public -buildings in Western Australia. There are many other fine buildings, -notably the Grand Hotel, Union Bank, and Beaconsfield Chambers. The -Chamber of Mines is another handsome building on a splendid site, and a -most valuable place for the mining community. The Chamber of Mines keeps -the people of the world well informed concerning the great gold-mining -industry, and communicates statistical information of a trustworthy -character to every member interested in the mines of the colony, as well -as information concerning the fairness and justice of legislation dealing -with mines. One half of the building is occupied by the Coolgardie Club. -Looking at these magnificent buildings in the wide and spacious streets, -all lighted up by electricity, and supplied with every luxury, one can -scarcely realise that a few years ago Coolgardie was a sandy desert; -where many men went through hardships almost beyond imagination; where -fever reigned supreme; where the bare necessities of life were daily -longed for in vain; where comforts were the things to be only dreamed -of and the isolation was terrible; where tinned meat, the only kind -obtainable, became almost hateful, and received the name of “tinned dog”; -where one could almost cry, “Water, water everywhere, but not a drop -to drink,” since the pioneers often found themselves in a wilderness -with nothing but salt water, quite unfit to drink, and refused even by -the camel, who is supposed to drink almost anything obtainable. Camels -would stray away seeking for water, and then the owners would return -to their camps disheartened, saying that they had no time to look for -gold, it took all their time to look for water and camels. The terrible -longing for home news, and the uncertainty of getting any; the wall that -seemed to divide the miners from the rest of the world, together with -the feeling that there was untold wealth of gold lying beneath their -feet if they could only hold out and keep up strength to get at it, made -their lives almost intolerable, and many of those first prospectors have -gone under, poor fellows! leaving others to reap the reward and to make -Coolgardie the wonderful place it is to-day. - -Then came better times, when sufficient food could be obtained, and -water condensers were brought, which, by a certain heat process, made -the salt water more fit for use, although it was still sometimes so bad -that the rich prospectors often performed their ablutions in champagne by -preference to it. - -Going down Bayley Street that morning there was quite a stir outside one -of the smaller hotels. Of course, woman’s curiosity prompted me to stop -and look, and I found a wedding-party just returned from church. The -landlord of this hotel, Mr. Faahan, has really had a unique experience -in servants, for this is the twenty-second of his women assistants, -presumably in the bar, who has entered the bonds of wedlock while in -his employ. The hotel is one of the oldest in Coolgardie. I have since -entered it and met the genial Mrs. Faahan, who took me outside and showed -me an old tree beneath which the first drink under licence was served in -Coolgardie. The place that is now the kitchen was then the bar, gold-dust -was plentiful, and champagne ran like streams of water. Opposite to Mr. -Faahan’s is the Cremorne Theatre, a very large place now, but in the -first days it was a shed with a stage made of rough planks laid across -beer-casks, and no accommodation for visitors to sit down, and it is said -that the miners used to pass the time between the “turns,” as they call -them, by calling out the favourite players and throwing nuggets or screws -of gold-dust at them. Good old days! - -[Illustration: WATER CONDENSER—FILLING THE WATER-BAG] - -Taking my bicycle I went for a tour of inspection around the various -streets adjacent to the town, where I found many very nice houses, and -to my surprise saw a lady in a very nice carriage drawn by a pair of -greys. Truly, I ought to be surprised at nothing in wonderful Coolgardie. -The roads here are the most level and the best for cycling I have ever -ridden on; not only are the streets remarkably wide, but the footpaths -also. The town is on quite a plain. Riding merrily along I was overtaken -by a man cyclist, who did not favour me with more than a passing glance, -lady cyclists being no rarity here. I, however, recognised him as an -old friend and called out, “Jack, don’t you know me?” He stopped in -astonishment at seeing me riding about Coolgardie on a bicycle, as we -had last said good-bye in New South Wales, three years since, before -his leaving for the Golden West, whither I then had no intention of -migrating. After a little chat, in which I discovered that Jack had not -struck a gold patch or “made his pile yet,” he invited me to the camp to -dinner with himself and the boys (his mates), and feeling quite anxious -really to see for myself what the inside of the camp was like, I did not -require a second invitation. We accordingly rode off side by side, past -endless rows of tents and hessian camps, all alive with the miners now -home for their dinner. Some of them had wives in the camp to cook their -dinner, but the majority of the campers had to cook for themselves. “We -must hurry up, for I am cook this week,” said my friend, and pointing to -a parcel on the bicycle, remarked, “Here is our dinner that is to be.” -No tinned dog now, as it used to be, but real, genuine steak. On arrival -at the camp we found two of the boys anxiously awaiting the arrival of -the steak, and somewhat surprised at seeing Jack accompanied by a lady -cyclist, whom, however, they greeted with much heartiness. Poor fellows! -here were four of them all away from home and mother; all had given up -good appointments on the other side to come over and search for gold. -They were all very jolly, however, and said that they had no cause to -complain of Coolgardie. My first anxiety was to inspect the camp, which -was a neat one. It consisted of five little Hessian houses: four of -these were the sleeping apartments of the four mates, and two of them -especially were models of comfort, as far as the boys could manage it. -One was lined with bright cretonne, a shaded lamp by the side of the -bed, a rough bookcase with the owner’s favourite books and photographs -of various friends opposite; a nice cosy chair and a wooden table, made -by my friend Jack, completed the furniture. Then another had his camp -lined with green baize, very nice in winter, but too hot, I imagine, -in summer-time. Here was a nice little table, two shelves painted with -white enamel paint, and some sketches done by the owner; many little -presents that had been sent from home were being proudly shown to me -when we heard the welcome sound, “Dinner is ready.” We then adjourned to -the fifth tent, which proved to be dining-room, parlour, and card-room -in one. A table down the middle covered with oil-cloth, a bench at each -side, with a side shelf and rustic dresser, formed the furniture. The -steak was cooked splendidly. My thoughts went back to the time when I -had seen Jack last, quite a swell young man at Newcastle, N.S.W., and -now here he was in a wide hat and shirt-sleeves, cook to the camp, and -looking, I must say, all the better for his roughing experiences. They -had brought out the man in him. Before he was somewhat inclined to be -effeminate, now he had become a fine fellow. But I am wandering away from -the dinner-party. The butter was good, although it was tinned butter, -and the bread as light as a feather. “The baker calls every day,” they -told me, “and if we are all out we pin up a memo. on the door and tell -him how many loaves to leave.” “Now,” said Jack, “I must go out and -get the pudding.” I felt I ought at least to assist, and was also a -little curious to see how it was being cooked, so getting up in spite of -protests that I was the guest and must do nothing, I went out to quiz. I -found the fireplace consisted of two iron spikes in the ground with a bar -across, from which hooks were hanging, and on the hooks were two billies -(tin cans with wire at top to hang by), one with tea and the other with -pudding. I was presently to have what we call in the colonies “billy -tea.” I could see no pudding-cloth, but presently Jack fished out a -shining tin which proved to contain one of Swallow and Ariel’s Melbourne -plum puddings, and a delicious one it was. Mothers in the colonies and -in England need never fear that their boys away on the goldfields do -not get nice puddings or cakes while Swallow and Ariel are to the fore. -Returning to the dining-tent pudding laden, I found the boys had just -extracted from a tin a sweet cake and also a preserved pineapple. This, -with tinned Viking cream and the billy tea, finished up a dinner fit for -a Princess of Coolgardie, as indeed I felt myself to be that evening, -with those four boys doing me homage. I found out afterwards that they -had all these nice things in the camp in reserve for Christmas, but they -were only too glad to open them all in my honour. Apropos of tinned -articles, the piles of discarded tins on the fields make one open one’s -eyes; there must be millions of them. One of my friends told me that in -earlier days, when everything in the palpitating heat-waves and fearful -grilliness of the camps got destroyed with heat and dust, they used to -come home to their meals feeling almost inclined to fall down and worship -the tinned vegetables and meat that they had buried in holes to try and -keep cool, and that these were the only eatable things to be got. Canned -apples were a special luxury for Sundays, and took them back to orchards -and gardens where they had wandered in the past. “Those apples, with a -lump of plum pudding, full of good things, sustained our waning energies -and brought us up smiling out of our then dreary camp life, and,” said -another, “it brought back happy recollections of civilisation and home.” - -After dinner we played a game of Nap on the camp-table, and I was the -winner of nine shillings, after which they all escorted me back to -my hotel, calling in on our way to see some other friends at another -camp, which proved to be a more pretentious place than the first, and -consisted of one of the pretty cottages before spoken of, the tenants -again bachelors. The inmates, a mining manager, his secretary, and clerk, -are attended by a Japanese servant; a very nice piano was in the pretty -drawing-room. One of the boys sang “Queen of my Heart,” in compliment he -said to me, and after a friendly glass of wine we resumed our bicycles -and rode gaily into the town, where I bade them good-bye, after spending -a most enjoyable afternoon in a goldfields’ camp. - -[Illustration: Burbanks Grand Junction Mine] - -I went next day to see Bayley’s Mine, where those wonderful first -finds were made. As I drove down broad Bayley Street and looked at the -stately buildings, I could not but think of those early days and of the -excitement of that time. - -Of course I did not expect to pick up lumps of gold as people did then, -but I certainly intended to keep my eyes very wide open, for I knew it -was not an infrequent occurrence for men to find good slugs of gold about -Coolgardie still. There are always a lot of men fossicking (looking for -gold at the surface) about Bayley’s, and recently a man found a specimen -of quartz weighing 144 ounces, and containing 97 ounces of pure gold; -later on he found several smaller pieces near the same place. The country -around Bayley’s is not very striking. Beyond the mines working and the -smoke from their batteries there is nothing to be seen except miles of -holes where the prospectors have been at work seeking for gold. It must -have been a busy scene when they were here. Thousands of miners digging -away, and then washing the stuff in tin dishes to see if there was a show -of gold; and if one hole showed nothing, away they turned to another. The -manager of Bayley’s took me round and told me that the mine is still very -rich. - -[Illustration: Vale of Coolgardie Mine] - -I think the people of Coolgardie ought to erect a memorial pillar to mark -the wonderful spot which may well be called the Mother of Coolgardie. -Little did the pioneers think, when they camped on this spot a few -years ago, that the arid desert would turn into a fine city, with more -golden country farther out, and other cities, with tens of thousands -of people earning good wages, and many amassing large fortunes. Such a -transformation in so short a time the world has never known. - -After leaving Bayley’s I crossed through a network of poles until I -struck the main road, and drove off to Bonnie Vale, which deserves its -name, the country being very hilly and quite surprisingly fresh and -green. Here many fine mines, viz., the Vale of Coolgardie, New Victoria -Consols, and others, under the control of Mr. A. E. Morgans, the member -for the district, are in full swing, and only wanting plenty of water -to give big results. A very nice little town lies close to the mines. -In another direction are the Big Blow and the Flagstaff; then come -Burbanks and Burbanks Birthday Gift. Burbanks Birthday Gift is really -a splendid mine. The main shaft, with its steel poppet-heads, is well -worth a visit, and so are the interesting models of different parts of -the mine, which were sent to the Paris Exhibition. Lady Charlotte Mine is -well worth inspection; a fine new battery has lately been erected, and -operations are now in full swing. The gold I saw from this mine—what they -call “coarse free gold”—was very splendid, and the quartz with the gold -showing through was exceedingly rich. - -I next visited the famous Londonderry Mine, some five miles farther on -through the bush. I had some difficulty in finding my way, as, after -leaving the last mine a few miles behind, there were several tracks, and -I did not know which to take. However, I took the one to the right, and, -after going on another mile, came across a party of five prospectors, -who looked somewhat surprised when I drove up and asked to be directed -to the Londonderry. They were, however, most civil, and gave me the -requisite directions, one even offering to accompany me. That, however, -I thought unnecessary, so I drove off, and soon came in sight of the -big poppet-heads of Londonderry, and none too soon, for I had just -discovered that a portion of the buggy I was driving had given way and -I could not have gone on much farther. The mine and its surroundings -gave one a very favourable impression. Everything looked bright and -nice. I drove up to the manager’s office, who immediately sent a man to -take the buggy to the blacksmith’s shop for repair, the horse to the -stables for a feed, after which he kindly invited me to his house, and -giving instructions to his housekeeper to attend to all my wants, had -to leave me, as it was time to go down the mine for inspection. I was -not at all sorry for a rest in a cool room, with a cup of tea and some -excellent cakes made by the housekeeper, for after the drive of ten -miles in the hot sun through the Coolgardie bush I felt that there are -drawbacks to travelling. When the manager came up from below he escorted -me over the mine and showed me everything of interest. Londonderry was, -after Bayley’s, the richest find near Coolgardie, and held a wonderful -record. The mine is the brightest-looking I have seen. Everything about -it seemed spick and span; the manager’s house was a model of comfort. -There was a store, a blacksmith’s shop, offices, and, indeed, every -appurtenance that could be desired for a mine. The manager unlocked the -great iron safe and showed me such gold that I had never seen before. I -felt like Shakespeare’s Benedick, “I did not think that I should live to -see such gold.” It was really the most brilliant and beautiful sight I -had ever seen. One large block of white quartz was thickly studded with -gold in nuggets all over it. I wanted to pick one off, but on trying to -do so found it firmly imbedded in the quartz. Over a dozen magnificent -specimens came from one rich pocket. Down below in this wonderful mine, -at the 200-foot level, a huge case is fitted up with iron doors for the -reception of the rich surplus ore that the safes cannot hold. I admired -some peculiar-looking specimens that I was told were felspar, which is -valuable for glass-making, and is found here in large quantities. - -[Illustration: JUBILEE AT RED HILL MINE] - -After all the kindness I had received from the manager I bade him a -reluctant farewell, as it was getting late and a ten-mile drive through -strange country to Coolgardie lay before me, but I knew there was a moon -that night, and did not fear the Australian bush at all, so I refused -the offer of an escort, and drove off by a different road from the one -I came for I wanted to see the township of Londonderry before I left. -This is about half a mile from the mine, past the tidy camps of the men, -who all came out and bade me a cheery good-bye. I stopped long enough -in the town to see that it is remarkably well laid out, with a very wide -principal street, a few very nice buildings, viz., post-office, store, -hotel and church; also a nice recreation-ground, where a number of the -miners and other townfolk were playing cricket. But I had to hurry away, -so, turning round a corner and following the telegraph-line, I started -for Coolgardie. The sun was just going down, the heat of the day was -over, and with the evening a refreshing breeze had arisen. I drove on -quite happily. Nothing happened, except that I met two swagmen in the -Bush, who looked at me so hard that I must confess I whipped up the horse -and got on as quickly as I could. I was now on quite a different road -from the one I came by. Everything looked strange, and I began to wonder -whether I was lost, but consoled myself by looking at the telegraph-line, -which I knew must lead to Coolgardie. The Wealth of Nations Mine lies in -this direction, one of the Western Australian golcondas of early days, -where discoveries of gold, frequently in pockets—small holes containing -comparatively large quantities of gold—such as had not previously been -known, were made near the surface, and caused the wildest excitement. It -was, however, too late to go there now, so I continued on the same road. -Another mile brought a big mine in view, and to my relief I found myself -at Burbanks again, and on the main road, so I was all right, and drove -merrily along, meeting only a carter or so walking by the side of their -teams, who, seeing a lady driving alone, said, “Good-night, missus,” -and went steadily on. As we got to the rise of the hill at Montana the -presence of hundreds of lights gave me welcome to the Queen City of Gold, -so there was a safe ending to that day’s journey, and both myself and -horse were quite ready for a good supper when we arrived at the hotel. - -Next morning I started for Hampton Plains, which is a large area of -ground taken up many years ago by an English syndicate at 2_s._ 6_d._ per -acre for pastoral purposes. However, when the rush of ’92 broke out at -Coolgardie, the news travelled to England that the great rush was only a -few miles from their territory. No wonder that they then immediately sent -out an expert, Mr. Lapage, M.I.E.C.E., to reconnoitre. On Mr. Lapage’s -arrival he found that a considerable number of alluvial surface holes had -already been struck, and 1000 ounces of gold had been taken out within -their boundary. Going over the land he found shows of gold in various -places; owing to the scarcity of water, nothing much, however, had ever -been developed there until recently, when the estate was thrown open to -prospectors. Large brickworks are now started on one part of the plains, -and the demand from Kalgoorlie for bricks is so great that the company -have lately duplicated their plant in order to make bricks enough to meet -the orders they receive. - -On my way to Hampton Plains I called at Bayley’s South, which are -yielding up very good gold. I saw a lot of ore come up out of the mine -that showed gold distinctly. I felt myself becoming quite an expert now. -The ore brought up here is in part hornblende schist, carrying very -visible gold. The manager told me the gold had evidently been shed from -the reef into the surrounding country rock, where there are cross reefs. -I also saw some ironstone, which I was told was very rich, but the gold -in it was so fine that one required to use a magnifying-glass, with the -aid of which I could distinctly see it. - -I next visited King Solomon’s Mine—not Rider Haggard’s famous one but -an exceedingly interesting namesake. Here there are quantities of the -diorite mixture of felspar and hornblende, with gold distinctly showing -through. This is an unusual and peculiar geological formation, and the -best specimens found on the field are at this mine. The gold has been -found impregnated in the diorite at a considerable distance from the -reefs, probably deposited there by water. I presently passed the Golden -Queen, and thought this such a nice name for a mine that I had to get -down and inspect it. I was lucky in just being in time to see two bars -of gold come up from the smelting works, and felt very covetous. The -manager told me that if I liked I could take them. I tried to do so and -found they were too heavy for me to carry, so perforce had to leave them, -much to my regret. I now approached Hampton Plains, a very flat part -of the country, as its name indicates. I looked around in vain for a -hostelry where I might put up and refresh myself and horse, but no sign -of anything of the kind appeared; about a dozen nice-looking houses in a -line were all I could see, the rest was plain, plain, plain. I summoned -courage to open the double gates of one of the houses and drove up to -ask for a drink for my poor horse, who seemed almost overcome with the -heat of the day. A man seeing me came to inquire what I wanted, and while -I was speaking to him a lady appeared on the broad verandah and kindly -invited me to enter. I was really glad to do so. Mrs. Ridsdale—for such -was the lady’s name—kindly told the man to put the horse up and go and -try and find enough water for a drink for him. They were really without -water on this dreadful hot day, waiting for the water-carts to come with -supplies. However, I was hospitably entertained with soda-water and -claret and biscuits, and after a rest, finding that my horse had been -refreshed with water, and also with some food, the carts having arrived, -I started off to investigate Hampton Plains. I did not find a great deal -to see. Several claims have been taken up, with no very great results so -far, except at the Italians Reward Claim, where some very rich stuff has -been got from the mine. There I was shown some handsome specimens, which -were kept in pickle-bottles, and very much admired one large nugget, -weighing 15 ounces. The land around here seemed suitable for pastoral -pursuits, if it were not for the scarcity of water, a difficulty which -will be overcome when the river of fresh water arrives at Coolgardie, and -there will no doubt in time be plenty of gardens and orchards, for the -soil is most productive. I saw a finger-post marked, “To Red Hill.” That -is another goldfield likely to be rich in the future. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - - The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial - Treasures. - - -Before leaving for England Mr. St. John Winne, the manager of the -Butterfly Leases at Red Hill, showed me some marvellously rich gold -specimens that he was taking with him to show the English investors. One -particular piece from which the mine derives its name is in the shape of -a butterfly—wings, body, even the little horns are perfectly like one. I -have read the “Golden Butterfly,” and have seen many golden butterflies -careering in the air, but never thought to have one of natural solid gold -in my hand. Mr. Winne has now returned from England, and I believe the -English shareholders’ eyes were fairly dazzled with the samples of the -prospective wealth before them. - -[Illustration: Golden Butterfly Nugget] - -It is 40 miles from Coolgardie to Red Hill and Lake Lefroy, and the -journey is anything but pleasant; the “Brumbies,” however, knew their -way, and the manner in which they got through the bush was astounding. -There was no road, only a track, but they took us safely over fallen -trees, &c., for which we were duly thankful. There were several camps -of prospectors about and the men seemed to be quite contented, and were -getting gold; they were, however, like all alluvial miners, rather -reticent about the quantity. Water is very scarce; it was a good thing we -had provided ourselves with water-bags and a good hamper of provisions, -otherwise we should have fared badly, for the only bush hotel we came -to was made of the proverbial tin, and everything inside was nearly at -boiling-point, so we preferred camping out under a tree. Water-bags are a -great institution in Western Australia. They are made of canvas, and have -a metal spout; as you drive along they swing in the air, which makes the -water delightfully cool. Lake Lefroy is a beautiful-looking lake, and I -longed for a bathe after the intense heat and dust of the day; but, alas! -the water was but a mirage, and you could only look and long. It was, -however, a beautiful sight; the white salt on its surface, stretching -for miles, seemed to reflect the blue sky with the sun shimmering on it. -There are a great number of lakes in Western Australia, but they are -nearly all dry and salt; no water can be obtained except by boring, and -then it has to be condensed before it is usable. After being condensed it -is quite palatable, and many fortunes have been made on the goldfields by -people owning condensers. - -[Illustration: The Main Shaft, Butterfly Leases.] - -Red Hill is not a bad little place. The accommodation of the Bush -“hotel” was very primitive, but we were in the “back-blocks” of the -West, and felt that we must not be too critical. There were several -mines and numbers of alluvial miners at work getting good results, -and very sanguine of making a big find one of these days. I saw the -stope (excavation) where the Treasure Chamber was, in which all the -before-mentioned gold at the Butterfly Mine was found, and I wished a -similar rich pocket might be struck while I was on the spot. Thirty miles -from Red Hill is Wigiemooltha, and 65 miles farther on is Norseman, a -rich mining town in the Dundas Goldfield. In the future there is to be a -railway line through these places, and, the people hope, to Esperance, -a seaport 200 miles from Coolgardie and 237 miles from Albany. Norseman -is a very flourishing goldfields town of over 1000 people. There are -some good mines there, the foremost one, The Norseman, turning out -considerably over 1000 ounces of gold per month. The Princess Royal and -Break o’ Day Mines have also given splendid results, sensationally rich -gold having been recently found at the latter mine. - -The clergyman at Norseman performs the tying of the marriage-knot for -many hundred miles around, and it is recorded that two couples were so -anxious for connubial felicity, and wrote so many pressing letters for -the minister to come and unite them, that he started on his bicycle for a -150-mile ride through the desert country, and that when within 20 miles -of the place the bicycle broke down and he had to push it the rest of -the way! Had this not happened he had intended going on another trifle -of 100 miles or so to make another couple happy! The breakdown, however, -put a stop to his travels, and the couple are perhaps still watching and -waiting for the parson, who returned to Norseman per camel. - -An exhibition was being held at Coolgardie during one of my visits -there, and was very interesting on account of the many magnificent gold -exhibits. As well as the gold, there were many splendid exhibits from the -agricultural districts, which opened the eyes of the goldfields people, -most of whom had never been in any other part of the colony but the -goldfields, and who had an idea that gold was Western Australia’s only -product. Many of these people have been so much impressed that they have -taken up agricultural land with a view to having a country residence, -to which they can retire after the heat and dryness of the goldfields -and recruit while planting their gardens. In the Agricultural and Fruit -Court bunches of grapes, weighing 8 lb. each, apples, pears, and quinces, -2 lb. each, pomegranates, oranges, and other fruits, were shown in rich -and tempting profusion. A trophy of pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers of -all hues, shapes, and sizes was displayed. The crown of the trophy was a -huge brown pumpkin weighing 165 lb.! A vast array of watermelons, some -weighing 50 lb. each, mangels and other sorts of homely vegetables, of -immense size, were to be seen. All kinds of cereals were represented. It -is a fact that no less than 32 distinct varieties of wheat can be grown -in the colony. The wool I thought very good, considering what a small -quantity is grown here yet. The collection certainly demonstrates the -fitness of certain parts of the colony for raising flocks. One fleece of -330 days growth weighed 13½ lb. I was also surprised to see some cotton -that was grown on the East Murchison at Mount Warragi. - -The row of gilt pyramids representing the output of gold from each field -struck my eye as soon as I entered the exhibition. It is interesting to -remember that, when the Colonial and Indian Exhibition was held at South -Kensington, London, Western Australia was not known as a gold-producing -country, and was represented principally by wild flowers. In this -exhibition the collection of auriferous ores was simply marvellous. There -were many bags of rich gold ores from all parts of the country, as well -as curious beautiful and interesting specimens of tin, iron, copper, -asbestos, mica, and coal; in fact, samples of almost everything found -beneath the earth’s surface in this wide colony. Then the gold: gold in -granite, gold in quartz, gold in diorite, gold in telluride, gold in the -wash, gold in the pug, gold in all kinds of alluvial deposits—in fact, -gold, gold everywhere. A section of the calcite vein from the Block 45 -Mine, where the telluride was first discovered, is interesting. The -auriferous breccia from Nullagine, in the North-west, was shown to me -by my guide, who explained that the stuff was of similar formation to -the gold deposits of the Rand in South Africa, in which diamonds are -sometimes found; and, speaking of Nullagine, there is now a syndicate -there looking for diamonds. The mine is called after Lady Forrest, some -small diamonds have been found, and from the latest reports fresh wonders -are expected there soon. - -There was a splendid specimen of fine flake gold, and a magnificent large -piece of quartz with gold all through it. This was from the Brown Hill -Mine. The Golden Horseshoe showed such wonderful specimens of richness -that my eyes were fairly dazzled, and it is impossible to enumerate them. -Free gold, mustard gold, and the sparkling sponge gold that really shone -like diamonds were shown me, and a part of the rich finds that were -discovered when the shares went up to £45; it nearly took my breath away -to look at them. The Associated Mines had a wonderful exhibit, the finest -of its kind in the world. It consisted of a block of ore showing massive -telluride gold of different kinds. A dark mineral in the centre of the -block when analysed proved to be sulphide of copper. By way of contrast, -a small piece of ore containing telluride has been placed in front, and -acid employed to dissolve the tellurium, and this helps one to comprehend -the value of telluride. - -The Boulder Perseverance had a very fine collection of different kinds -of ore and gold and also some diamond drill cores which I had not seen -before. The magnificent collection of the Lake View Consols, consisting -of 68 specimens, showing telluride of gold, 34 valuable samples of -sulphide ore, and 32 pieces of oxidised ore, showing immense quantities -of gold, besides many others showing the various stages of oxidisation, -really ought to be seen, words cannot describe their beauty. The Great -Boulder Mine showed 14 splendid specimens of rich oxidised ore from the -100-foot level, containing sponge and free gold, and 15 specimens from -the 200-foot level. In the centre of these was a block of ore with a -hole right through it full of sponge gold; there were 12 specimens of -rich sulphide ore from the 300-foot level, 10 very interesting samples -of tellurides of gold, mercury, and silver, and saucers with chips of -telluride of gold. Kalgurlite, which is a new mineral, a telluride of -gold, silver, and mercury, containing 35 per cent. of gold, 10 per cent. -of silver, and 46 per cent. of tellurium, was also exhibited, and a very -unique collection of sponge gold occupied a case in the centre of the -court. This was found in a very large vugh, and 60lb. weight was obtained -from one spot in the oxidised ore. It was composed of a mass of minute -crystals, and is the most brilliant form of gold found upon the field. -From the 400-foot level came some marvellous samples of ore showing -telluride of gold and free gold, and from the hanging wall of the lode, -and the foot wall of the same level, more rich specimens were shown. - -[Illustration: The Miners’ Holiday] - -There were some splendid exhibits from the Ivanhoe Mine, and from -hundreds of other mines on the field. Those I have first mentioned were -from Kalgoorlie alone. There were splendid exhibits from Coolgardie, -Kanowna, Menzies, and Murchison Mines, and from many other parts of the -colony, whose unparalleled richness called forth the following remark -from an American mining-man, who was visiting the court at the same time -as I was, and who had come from Cripple Creek in Colorado: “Wal, I’ve -seen a big lot of specimens in my time, but I must take off my hat to -these; they lick creation!” I returned next day to have a look at the -alluvial gold from the famed Kanowna. The court of alluvial diggings -was attracting a great deal of attention, not because of its richness -but also on account of the stir made in 1897 by the rush there, when the -rich alluvial gold was first struck by George Sim. Not only has Kanowna -proved itself a mine of wealth for thousands of hard-working alluvial -miners, who chiefly worked the claims themselves, and consequently -had all the gold “on their own,” as their saying goes, but it also -produces a very fine building stone. There was in the exhibition a most -remarkable-looking perfect crystal 17½ inches long and 9 inches thick, -which was discovered in the alluvial wash at Shand and party’s Claim. The -display of alluvial matter in all its varied forms shown in this court -was almost enough to spur on any one to become a prospector. A golden -harvest has been reaped by thousands of men in a few short months, for -the rush to Kanowna began in November 1897, and at that time the town -of Kanowna was virtually dead; three months later it was estimated that -there were 2000 miners in the field and 20,000 people in Kanowna all -told. In twelve months the field was virtually worked out, and although a -few parties are still getting a reward for their labours, there are not -now more than 1000 men on the field. The stuff called “pug,” from which -they get very fine gold, is a most peculiar greenish, soft, putty-looking -substance, and there was a fine show of it from Hampton’s Claim in the -Golden Valley. This was found 61 feet down, and the deposit is 7 feet -thick. Some splendid specimens of lode material showed crystalline gold -extremely rich, worth 40 ounces to the ton. The Red, White and Blue -Claim, owned by Pratt and party, displayed rich ironstone alluvial -wash. This claim yielded 4500 ounces of gold, worth £18,000, and only a -few partners divided it. Some green alluvial wash which has given rich -results was from the Moonlight Lead, which also showed flake gold; and -from the Magpie Claim there was rich alluvial ore shown worth 9 ounces -per ton. - -Rich treasures similar to these were sent from the mines to the Paris -Exhibition, and the Western Australian Court was universally said to -have the finest collection of minerals the world had ever shown. The -Bobby Dazzler nugget, weighing 413 ounces of solid gold, valued at £1500, -was a surprise to many beholders; among the hundreds of other solid lumps -of the precious metal sent to Paris was the large nugget that was cut in -two by one of the two men who found it, and who then drew lots for the -sections and found that there was only a difference of 30s. in the value -of them. Another slug of gold, worth £639, had the distinct mark of a -pick on it. I suppose the man who found it could hardly believe in his -good luck until he struck it a second time. Another strange lump of gold -is shaped like the map of England, another like a camel’s head. The last -“clean up” of the Westralian Mount Morgans Mine was sent in bars of gold -worth £11,600. The Westralian Government purchased from the owners of -various mines I mention in these travels over £100,000 worth of gold for -the exhibition, and this, supplemented by quantities more since won, will -be shown at the Glasgow Exhibition this year. The pearl-shell exhibit, -was composed of 600 enormous gleaming shells, which, when lit up by -electric light, looked like a fairy grotto. During last year there were -179 vessels engaged in the pearl-shell fisheries in Western Australia, -and their aggregate tonnage was 2707. The number of men employed was -1165, of which total 991 were Asiatics. The pearl-shell raised amounted -to 720 tons, valued at £80,479, and the value of pearls found was -£15,529. Also our colony took four first prizes for timber, wool, wheat, -and minerals, at the Paris Exhibition, besides eight gold medals, five -silver ones, and five bronze for other productions. - - - - -[Illustration: Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - - Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. - Kaufman—Early Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View Consols - and Great Boulder. - - -Hannan’s, or Kalgoorlie as it is now called, is 24 miles from Coolgardie, -and as I took my comfortable seat in the railway carriage, sped along -the once forsaken desert and arrived at the now famous City of Gold, -with its broad streets and splendid buildings, it seemed incredible that -such a transformation should take place in a few short years. It would -be difficult to point to any place in the world that has developed so -rapidly. During their short existence Kalgoorlie and the Boulder City -have turned out over 31 tons of gold, and Coolgardie has been quite -outstripped by her younger sister. I think, when gold is measured by the -ton, the colony from which it comes may be fairly considered marvellous. -It is only seven years since Hannan and Harrigan threw themselves down -to rest on the ground at the eastern corner of what is now Kalgoorlie, -and, fortunately for thousands of lucky people, discovered gold, and -now, as far as that precious metal is concerned, Kalgoorlie is the hub of -Australia. Kalgoorlie is a well-laid-out city. Bicycle tracks are laid -down on the 30-foot wide paths, electric lights are everywhere, trees -have been planted in the broad streets, and by-and-by will afford shade -in the hot days for which Kalgoorlie is noted. The new post-office is a -splendid building, and has cost £40,000. The warden’s and other public -offices are also on a grand scale. There are several magnificent hotels, -especially the Railway, opposite the station, and the Palace, covering -half an acre of ground, which I have made my headquarters. This hotel -is far the best on the goldfields of Western Australia; every luxury -is obtainable; it has a spacious dining-room with electric fans always -going, exquisite drawing-rooms, and good attendance. - -There are several newspapers, the chief of which is the _Kalgoorlie -Miner_, edited by Mr. Kirwan, who identifies himself in every way with -the interests of the people as well as with his editorial duties; -the miners have a staunch friend in him. There are many fine shops, -especially jewellers, where gold nuggets of all shapes and sizes -made into handsome ornaments may be bought. Land at Kalgoorlie is -daily increasing in value. An offer of £100 a foot was refused by -an acquaintance of mine for a plot she is lucky enough to own. Some -mining-men, including the well-known Mr. Zeb. Lane, were dining at the -next table to myself on one occasion, and one of them remarked that he -was sure that in a few years there would be 300,000 people in Kalgoorlie. -You may be sure, holding that opinion, that the gentleman was looking -out for investments. A handsome new theatre is being erected in Hannan’s -Street. At present the Miners’ Institute supplies the entertainments. The -suburbs of Piccadilly and Mullingar stretch far beyond the town site, and -the three miles to Boulder City are fast being built on, and will shortly -form one continuous busy road. Three fine breweries supply the needful -refreshment to thirsty souls, and altogether Kalgoorlie is a splendid -goldfields city, but the summer weather is almost indescribable. One of -the days had been unbearably hot and oppressive; but dark clouds were -overhead, and I said, “Soon we shall have a rain storm, which will cool -the air.” My friends whom I was visiting laughed, and one of them, with -a merry twinkle in the eye, said, “There will probably be a storm, but -you will soon get accustomed to this kind of weather; _wait awhile_.” In -the evening Fitzgerald’s “Great World Circus” being in town, we decided -to risk the “storm,” make up a party, and go to the performance. All -went well until about nine o’clock, when suddenly came “the dreadful -thunder”—the clouds had broken; then came, not the rain, but dust, dust, -_dust_—red, stifling, blinding, and terrible; for the roof of the “Great -World Circus” had been completely lifted off by the red-dust fiend, while -with his breath he had extinguished almost every light in the tent. -Crash! whiff! whirl! and the “willy willy” had madly danced far away. One -minute’s terrified silence and then through the remaining red haze could -be seen the circus performers bravely continuing their entertainment as -if nothing had happened; and blended with the echo of the distant din -could be heard the strains, “Gaily the music go-o-es, so gaily.” But -the vast audience of upwards of 3000 people, who, though the roar had -been so strangely “hush,” had witnessed enough excitement for one night, -gradually filed out through the rent of the swaying canvas wall, my -friends and I amongst them, arriving home very white-faced, underneath -the brown-red war paint so cunningly and weirdly distributed on us by the -fiend. After wiping the dust out of my own eye, I remembered the twinkle -that I had seen in some one else’s, and I laughingly exclaimed, “Was that -the ‘thunderstorm’ you recommended me to ‘wait’ for?” - -[Illustration: Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie] - -“We had a narrow escape,” tersely and grimly (I had almost written -grimily), remarked my friend; but he must have rubbed the twinkle out of -his eye and the dust into his temper for he declined to see the joke; -however, as mirth is catching, we were soon a merry party once more, -and I was regaled with “willy willy” stories of roofs being carried -for miles, and of houses being torn down by these huge “dust spouts,” -and, as at intervals I heard the “thunder” in the distance, I could -well believe the dancing, whirling devils capable of anything. Many -good theatrical companies now visit the goldfields, but the expenses of -a travelling company are very large, the railway fare from Perth being -about six pounds each return ticket first class, and four pounds second -(there is no third class in the colonies). The hotel tariff is from -twelve shillings per day (Palace sixteen), the smallest drinks (a big -item in such a hot and thirsty country) are a shilling each, and half a -crown is the usual price for a bath, as before said. There are no large -theatres on the fields, but the managers make the prices for admission -high, the community not caring how much they spend if they really wish -to see anything; in fact, that is one of their little worries, they are -always looking out for something to spend their money on. Horses, yes, -the best procurable, and they are a very high price. Champagne is from -twenty-five shillings a bottle, and that is the first drink the lucky -miner calls for; his great mania is “shouting,” as they call it, that -is treating wine to everybody they know. “Wives and families to spend -it on?” “Oh, yes; but they are on the other side,” meaning the Eastern -colonies; “I always send them plenty to live on, and when I’ve made my -pile (fortune) I’ll go home with it; in the meantime I must do something -to make life endurable here,” and the Hebe at the bar smiles sweetly, -and for it receives perhaps a diamond bracelet. I am not speaking of -the miner who earns his weekly wages, but of the man who is lucky in -his speculations of shares, or who owns part of a mine, and when they -strike rich, as they call it, spends his money lavishly. I sat on the -Palace Hotel balcony in Hannan Street one afternoon and watched the crowd -passing up and down; I was surprised to see the women so richly dressed, -elegant Redfern tailor-made gowns and Worth carriage costumes (although -no carriages were to be seen, but plenty of buggies with dust-covered -hoods) were much in evidence; many of the rich women send to London and -Paris I am told for their gowns. Occasionally a plainly-dressed woman in -a tweed or Assam silk costume with neat sailor hat would pass, probably -a mine manager’s wife or English visitor, but the majority of the women -of the goldfields spare no expense in the style and richness of their -dresses. At the present time the population of Kalgoorlie, its suburbs, -and Boulder City is nearly 60,000. In a very short time electric tramways -will be running, and extensive swimming baths are now being built. There -are many good churches, which shows that in the rush for gold the welfare -of the soul is not neglected. Goldfields places are usually looked on -as somewhat lawless. I can assure my readers, however, that those in -Western Australia are an exception. - -[Illustration: Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days] - -Over the hill, not to the poorhouse, but to the rich Mount Charlotte -Mine, I one morning took my way. From the hill a splendid view is -obtained, and for three miles beyond nearly all to be seen is mines, -their poppet-heads and batteries showing distinct against the sky. The -manager of the Mount Charlotte Mine was away, so I could not get much -information, and so, like Jo in “Bleak House,” I had to move on. The -next mine is Hannan’s Reward, where gold was first struck (found) at -Kalgoorlie; and although such wonderful results came from this place at -first, the mine has now been outpaced by many others. I passed dozens -more of mines, but did not stop until I got to the Brown Hill Mine, under -the control of Messrs. Bewick, Moreing & Co., one of the finest on the -field. This mine, as its name indicates, is on the top of a hill, and is -a most imposing-looking one; wealth seems to speak from the buildings -around it. The manager’s house is a splendid bungalow style of place, -replete, I believe, with every modern comfort. Outside is a tennis court -and other evidences of the manager’s tastes. The offices are large and -convenient. The manager, Mr. Feldman, being away in England, I did not -go down the mine, therefore cannot tell you anything about it; but Dr. -Diehl, who represents the London and Hamburg Gold Recovery Company in -connection with the Brown Hill Mine, has lately made a most interesting -discovery _re_ the treatment of sulphide ore, likely to be of much value -in the mining world. From this place I went to the Crœsus, thence to -Block 45, another mine that has given big results. Of course there are -many mines that have not proved as rich as those mentioned. Mining seems -to be like fishing: there may be any number of fine fish, but it does not -fall to the luck of all anglers to catch them. - -Away again past more mines, down through Golden Valley, now past -the Oroya, North Boulder, Bank of England, and Coolgardie Mint—all -splendid mines; then up the highest hill at the Boulder, as this part -of the goldfield is called, where I came to the great Australia mine -(Associated). From this place one has a glorious view of the other great -mines on the Golden Mile, so-called on account of the marvellous quantity -of gold that has been and is still being extracted from its depths—Lake -Mew, Great Boulder, Ivanhoe, Boulder Perseverance, and Golden Horseshoe. -They present a magnificent spectacle. It is almost impossible to describe -in words the wonders of the golden hills on which these wonderful mines -are placed. - -Close to the Golden Mile is a small square of business places—hotels, -stores, different kinds of little shops, and a brewery; this was the -beginning of Boulder City, but in consequence of the influx of people -and the increasing prosperity of the mines, it was found necessary to -establish the Miners’ City, a mile farther away, the intervening ground -being required for mining. According to mining laws any ground taken up -for that purpose cannot legally be built on, but miners are allowed to -camp there on sufferance, and the area is therefore dotted over with -mushroom-like tents and canvas houses. - -The Australia is the largest of the Associated Mines. Everything seen -is of the latest date; every appliance that man’s ingenuity can devise -is here. To convey the stone along the open cut to the mill there is a -wonderful aerial tramway composed of wire cables, on which the trucks -run high up in the air; it is a marvellous way of conveyance, but more -peculiar still is what is here called the “Flying Fox,” which has an -iron bucket on a single rope of twisted wire. Machinery on the top of -the shaft and above the crushing mill conveys it to its destination; -then the bucket empties as if by magic, and flies back to the bottom of -the open cut, a quarter of a mile journey, to be again replenished. It -seems almost incredible that a girl ever had the courage to take that -journey, and yet one actually performed the perilous feat. The manager in -jest had dared her to do it on her visit to the mine, and she, being a -strong-willed Scotch girl, took him at his word, got into the new aerial -car, flew through the air, and arrived quite safe at the bottom of the -cut, while every one present held their breath with amazement; and I -believe that all the workmen, on seeing a pretty girl deposited at their -feet in place of the usual prosaic empty bucket, stood in consternation -and amazement, wondering what the clouds were going to rain next. The -underground workings of the Australia are brilliantly lit with electric -light, which shows up the gleam of the rich gold through the ores so -beautifully as you peer through the light into the magnificent chambers -of oxidised or sulphide ore, you can almost imagine yourself in Aladdin’s -Cave. On the 300-foot level there is a magnificent chamber or stope, 16 -ft. high and 40 ft. wide, from which thousands of tons of ore have been -taken, returning 8 oz. to the ton. A specimen weighing 1½ cwt. had just -been broken off. It was studded and seamed with rich telluride. Owing to -the telluride lodes, mining presents wonderful possibilities. There is -no knowing what marvels may any day come to light. The rock-drill, whose -motive power is compressed air, had pierced down 550 ft. There was a -large gang of men down the mine timbering, enormous great poles, almost -tree trunks, were being put in position, propping up the earth to make it -safe. It made me shudder to think of the dangers of a miner’s life, and -yet, comparatively speaking, there are very few accidents in the mines -here. The genial underground-manager told me that every precaution was -taken in all the mines nowadays. We emerged from the shaft once more into -the light of day. The first thing to strike the eye on the top were the -enormous looking cyanide tanks, then the amalgamator’s rooms, where we -saw all the modern appliances for extracting the gold, wonderful vats of -chemicals where the rich tailings were lying waiting for the chemical -action to take place, ripple beds, then ball mills, pug mills, rock -breakers, and enormous stamping batteries in their various houses; then -last, but not least, the new roasting furnaces with their huge boilers, -and other parts looking like some immense military fortifications; these -are used for smelting, and cost £100,000. There were 20,000 or 30,000 -bags of ore waiting for treatment, full of gold. It is wonderful to see -the gold being smelted. To stay in the furnace-room for a minute or two, -even before the furnace-door was opened, was like taking a Turkish-bath. -I was quite content to stay on the outside when it was opened, and to -see the man, dressed in an asbestos suit from head to foot, pull out -with a great iron hook the red-hot pot full of molten gold and pour it -like golden sunshine into a mould. After seeing this man at his work I -thought him a kind of hero, and wondered what he weighed in the asbestos -suit. About 200 yards from the mine are the large and commodious offices, -and the quarters of some of the managers of different departments. The -gold produced from this mine up to the end of November 1901 was 214,485 -ounces, and the dividends paid amounted to over £258,750. - -[Illustration: A Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols] - -Driving over to the Lake View Mine was not altogether pleasant, as, when -nearly half-way down the steep and stony hill, my horse stumbled and -nearly fell; however, a kindly pedestrian seeing my difficulty came to -my assistance, and, much to my relief, led him down to the foot of the -hill. I then crossed over to Lake View, which is said to be the greatest -gold-producer of this marvellous field, outrivalling even the famed Mount -Morgan in Queensland, which was almost a mountain of gold. Mr. Charles -Kaufman purchased this wonderful mine for a company when he was on a -visit to Australia; seeing the wealth and magnitude of the Kalgoorlie -mines, he did not hesitate to pay the sum of three-quarters of a million -sterling, and to take a quantity of shares for himself, and since that -time he has also purchased other large mines. There is a very large -and efficient staff of experts in their different departments on high -salaries. Lake View Consols, to give the mine its full title, was, until -the advent of Mr. Kaufman, a mine that seemed fated to bad luck. It was -at that time owned by an Adelaide company. The first manager pronounced -it a failure, the second died of typhoid, and the third, Mr. O’Neill, -managed to pay out a dividend of 3_d._ per share! This was the first -dividend ever paid on the field. Since then many dividends of £1 per -share have been made. When Mr. Kaufman purchased Lake View he soon had it -equipped properly and started on a new basis. Now, in place of the meagre -poppet-heads and small shafts, a gallows-frame towers 120 ft. into the -air, and immense shafts, sending up their continuous supply of splendid -ore, give token of the change that has taken place. When you go down the -mine in the “cage,” as they call it, you need only close your eyes and -fancy you are in an elevator. When you get down 100 ft. you step out to -a drive running 1700 ft., then on the north side you go 450 ft., and -must not go any farther, because you are near the Boulder Perseverance -ground, which is another rich mine close by. Here is an immense body of -rich high-grade sulphide ore, 51 ft. wide. Teluro sulphide (in which -telluride is found) and sulphide ores differ from oxidised ore, which -is usually of a light colour and shows the gold freely; the other ores -have a silvery-grey appearance, seldom showing gold, but when treated at -the mills and smelting works they frequently yield a large percentage of -it. Down again the visitor goes in the cage to 500 ft., the mine growing -richer and richer to the bottom. Coming up again, the stope[3] at the -300-foot level,[4] from which such phenomenally rich telluride, assaying -150 ounces to the ton, has been taken, shines like a star-bespangled -sky on a dark night. The shares in this great mine have been sold at £28 -10_s._ At that time the production was one hundred and twenty thousand -pounds worth of gold per month. The immense quantity of huge timber down -below is astounding. I am sure there must be enough used in timbering -this great mine to build a town. The level at the 100-foot is quite -large enough to give a ball in; the electric light and electric bells -are all ready, and the air is so beautifully cool that this would be an -ideal place for a ball on a hot summer’s night. The production from this -wonderful mine has been enormous, and when one has been down and seen -all I saw below, one does not wonder at it; it is a perfect marvel of -richness. I went over all the drives, stopes, cross-cuts, &c., and saw -everything. In place of men pushing the trucks of ore below, as is the -case in other mines, horses were drawing 8 or 9 trucks at a time. One -of the horses is a real pet with the miners, and at crib-time (mid-day, -dinner-time) he is unfastened and allowed to walk about the drive. He -always finds out where the men are, and comes up for bread or cake, which -he eats with a relish. He is lowered down the mine every morning in a -net, and is as quiet as a lamb now; at first, when he was very young, -he did not like the lowering process at all, but he has since got quite -used to it. Such bodies of rich ore have been opened up that years will -be occupied in treating it, the plant belonging to the mine not being -yet large enough to cope with the quantity. After the magnitude of the -under workings, nothing surprised me on the top, although the rumble and -stamping of the batteries, the hum of the mighty machines, the beautiful -bright engines that seem to work with perpetual motion, the enormous -furnaces, the magnificent cyanide plant, with its wonderful machinery -for extracting the gold, the electricity that seems to fill the air and -almost takes one’s breath away, are all so vast and wonderful that a -sense of something like awe came over one, and I was not sorry to get -into the open air again and see the blue sky above me. - -Only five years ago a miner returned to Adelaide, South Australia, from -the West, and called on a sharebroker, giving him 500 Lake View shares to -sell at as high a price as possible. They were sold for a few shillings, -and when the miner got his cheque he remarked “he was sorry for the -‘bloke’ who bought them, as he had been working on the mine and knew she -was no good.” Those 500 shares would now be worth several fortunes to -that miner had he kept them. The biter was bitten; I wonder how he feels -at the present day about it? - -[Illustration: Overlooking the Great Boulder] - -That Mr. G. Brookman, of Adelaide, was certain five years ago of the -great future of Lake View Consols is shown by a piece of paper with his -calculations on it, now in the possession of Mr. Fotheringham, also of -Adelaide, which reads as follows:— - -“Reef on Lake View, 3000 feet long, 100 feet deep, equal to 300,000 -feet, 6 feet wide, equal to 1,800,000 cub. feet, equal to 140,000 tons; -3 ounces to the ton, equal to 420,000 ounces; £4 per ounce, equal to -£1,680,000; allow £420,000 for cost of raising and crushing, &c., leaves -£1,260,000 available for dividends.” - -This great mine stands first in the field as a gold-producer, the total -yield in 1900 being 528,368 ounces, and dividends at the time of writing -having been paid to the amount of £1,187,500 (one million one hundred -and eighty-seven thousand five hundred pounds). When Brookman and Pearce -arrived at Coolgardie where Bayley found his Eldorado, and not finding -much there, went on to what was then called Hannan’s, now Kalgoorlie, -to look at Cassidy’s Claim, they saw plenty of the golden metal to -gladden their eyes. They began to work upon a reef, but Mr. Pearce, in -his wanderings around the then Bush in spare time, was attracted to some -ironstone hills. He prospected about, and was so well satisfied that he -and his mate shifted camp and began to work on what is now the Ivanhoe -property. Not keeping exactly within the pegged ground, they discovered -a rich leader (a small lode running into a large one) not far from the -camp. This was the first gold found on the Great Boulder. They then -pegged out 20 acres around each find, and keeping their good fortune to -themselves (knowing that a still tongue makes a wise head), soon pegged -out what is now Lake View Consols. The present value of these syndicate -holdings, if realised, would be about £30,000,000! So little was thought -of the leases at first that they were called “Brookman’s Sheep Farms.” - -I have a few pieces of really fabulously rich telluride that were -given to me from the same place, the 300-foot level, which yielded the -magnificent specimens sent to the Glasgow Exhibition. The veins of the -precious stuff were nearly four inches thick. They are so handsome that -it seems almost a pity to break them up and turn them into what is called -“filthy lucre.” - -After coming from the mine I, with the rest of a party that I had been so -fortunate as to meet on my visit here, was hospitably entertained by the -manager. I then resumed my journey. This time I thought myself growing -so clever, and beginning to know so much travelling alone, that, seeing -an opening between two large heaps of what I afterwards discovered to be -rich tailings (from the crushings of the ore from which all the gold has -not been extracted, and when treated by cyanide, which is a solution for -extracting every particle of it, often gives good returns), I started to -take a short cut through. I had, however, not thought of the air-tram -going along with its freight of ore overhead, and just as we were going -through the opening whirl it went along, frightening the poor horse, -who nearly upset the trap. But a second time that day I was saved to -continue my journey, this time by two miners, who were just emerging from -a shed close by, and who said, “Private road, missus.” However, on seeing -my look of distress, and on my mentioning my business as a lady explorer, -they let me pass on my way again rejoicing. From the side of Lake View -on which I now was, a totally different view presented itself. The large -buildings of the mine completely block the township of the Boulder, and -for a mile ahead nothing can be seen but mines, mines, mines, and on the -flats tents, Hessian camps, offices, and mine-managers’ houses. Many -good-sized places about here are boarding-houses. The majority of the -men camp and cook for themselves, but some of them merely sleep in their -tents and take their meals at the above-mentioned houses, usually looked -after by two or three women, who do the mending and washing required. -They speak in highest terms of the conduct of all the men; indeed, from -what I saw and heard, the camps are very well conducted, and I am sure -I have met with the greatest kindness and politeness from the mining -community in general. I drove all round these mines and camps, but only -stopped once to get a cup of tea at one of the houses, where I found the -housekeeper most kind and communicative. - -[Illustration: Hannan’s Star Mine] - -Hannan’s Star, Boulder Main Reef, and Chaffer’s are the mines adjacent to -the one I next stopped at—the Golden Horseshoe. Here I interviewed Mr. -Sutherland, the manager, at the office, who sent for the underground boss -(as he is termed), Mr. Morgan, to show me over the mine. To give an idea -of the wealth of this famous mine I must tell you that, when shares were -£8 each, such magnificent finds of gold were made that they went up in -value to £51! On going below, Mr. Morgan courteously showed me all over -the golden mine which has proved so profitable. He also showed me some -of the most magnificent gold, and specimens I have ever seen. These were -some of those that were found when the shares went up to the tremendous -price before mentioned. Sometimes the gold is found in solid pieces; -when mixed with quartz, the pieces are called “specimens.” We went down -to the 200-foot level, and saw the wonderful place where the finds ran -for weeks at a rate of 80 ounces and 90 ounces to the ton; 2000 ounces, -valued at £8000, were won in a few days. This was oxidised ore, and at -the same level is still abundant, but not quite so rich as the above -quotations. We then proceeded to the 400-foot level, where more rich -ore and wonderful workings were seen. Then along a drive down another -shaft to the 700-foot level, through stopes and cross-cuts, picking out -more specimens until I was fairly bewildered. Coming up we stopped at -the 400-foot level, where the rich sulpho-telluride ore showed free gold -quite plainly. Mr. C. D. Rose, the chairman of this mine, estimates that -the monthly production from oxidised ores alone will reach 14,000 ounces, -and will be maintained at that. This estimation has been more than -reached, one month’s production of the mine since that time having been -15,280 ounces of gold. - -[Illustration: The Ivanhoe Mine] - -When the mine’s great richness was first becoming apparent, a very -jovial meeting of the shareholders was held. The shares had then made -a big jump to £17. Previous to the time when the shares in the Golden -Horseshoe were £7 10_s._ a strong “bear” attack was made on them. (A -“bear,” in mining parlance, is a speculator who sells stock he does not -possess, with the idea of being able to purchase at a cheaper price -later on.) The mine was at that time “jumped” on account of some legal -technicality; but, instead of this producing the desired effect of a -fall in prices, the shares shortly afterwards rose, and the “jumpers” -made a hasty retreat, sadder but wiser men. A director of this mine told -me of the time, not very long past, when he advised his friends to buy -shares up to as he had himself done. Some of them acted on his advice, -but shortly afterwards the shares went down to £2 10_s._ He was then -overwhelmed with inquiries as to what was the matter. After making a -strict examination of the Golden Horseshoe properties, and seeing the -large bodies of valuable ore below, this gentleman’s advice was to stick -to the shares. Shortly afterwards they rose to £5 and £6, and now, as I -before said, they have been as high as £51 per share, and up to 19 ounces -of gold to the ton of ore has been got. This speaks for itself, and no -doubt it is one of the best mines in the world. I was told a story about -this mine, which at first I thought too incredible to be taken seriously, -but which I am assured is a fact. It is stated that an old lady recently -entered a London broker’s office and produced the certificates for -various shares which she said she wanted to dispose of, saying she would -take £5 for the lot. The broker found most of them to be shares of a -valueless kind, but one represented 500 Golden Horseshoes, which he sent -into the market and sold at £40 each, so that the old lady, instead of -getting £5 for her entire collection, was credited with £20,000 for one -slip of paper alone! - -I made my next move onwards along a narrow road between two hills. On -one side is the Ivanhoe, and on the other that marvellous mine the Great -Boulder. This is the second on the list as champion gold-producer, having -produced over 449,726 ounces. If each ounce of gold were to be coined -into four sovereigns, these ounces would represent over a million and a -half of money, of which £910,000 has been distributed in dividends. Mr. -George Inglis, well-known in England and on the Continent, was one of -the foundation members of the board of the Great Boulder Mine, and was -instrumental in finding some of the working capital of the company, and -has been deeply interested in it ever since its inception. The offices of -this great mine are close to it. I had to wait some little time before -seeing any one who would conduct me round, everybody seeming to be up to -their eyes in business. I accordingly mounted a hill to the open door of -a large building, which I found to be the amalgamators’ room. Here was a -feast of gold in bars, in ingots, in oval shape. It had just been brought -from the smelting-room, and the police escort was waiting to take it into -the bank at Kalgoorlie. I was fortunate in arriving at the time I did. -I had seen gold before, but never to this extent in its newly smelted -state; it was a revelation. - -The manager, Mr. Hamilton, was very courteous to me, and on my telling -him I wished to go underground at once acceded to my request. It was -hardly necessary to show him the letter I carried with me from the -Minister of Mines, Perth, asking all managers to extend their courtesy -and help to me in my travels on the goldfields. On arrival at the shaft, -a crowd of men had just come up, and another crowd were waiting to go -below; they were changing “shift,” which is the term used to denote -their working time of eight hours. During the week the mines never -stop working, consequently relays of men are required. In these shifts -their hours of labour are changed at certain times, and so the men are -sometimes on what is termed day shift or night shift. - -[Illustration: Mr. Zebina Lane] - -When I descended the 800-foot level the men who were there were taking -their mid-day meal, most of them sitting down on the great stones. Their -bright dinner cans, which contain three compartments, one for tea, one -for bread and meat, and one for sweets, looked very clean and nice, while -the many candles that lit up the otherwise gloomy cavern, the picks, -shovels, and other mining implements lying about, helped to make up a -characteristic scene of underground life. - -The diamond drill was at work. It was wonderful to see how the diamond -penetrated the hard rock, for the quartz must be nearly as hard as the -diamonds are themselves. Mr. Hamilton gave me a piece of the core of the -drill, which I shall place among my treasures from the mines. I peered -down the 300 feet below where I was, as the mine went down to 1100 feet, -but it was so dark and wet that I had no wish to descend any farther, so -mounting the cage I again ascended, stopping at two of the other levels -and climbing all around them, and seeing all the wonders beneath the -earth, and collecting more specimens. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - - The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder - Perseverance—The Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting - the Rock—British Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our - own Zeb. Lane—Kalgoorlie again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the - Goldfields. - - -The Ivanhoe Mine is quite close to the Great Boulder, and next morning -I set out to take a look at that, although I must confess I was getting -weary, having walked many miles underground in the last few days. -However, I was determined to go over the 6 biggest mines of the field, -so away I went. The manager received me in the kindest manner, and -offered me his room to prepare in, and told everybody to do everything -I wished, as he had important business at Lake View, and could not take -me down himself. The important business afterwards turned out to be that -he was taking over the charge of the Lake View Consols as well as the -Ivanhoe. Accompanied by three gentlemen visitors and the underground -manager, I descended the great Ivanhoe Mine. I had a particular wish -to see an enormous stope, 1500 feet long, about which I had heard; so -at the 600-foot level we got out and went along a long drive until we -came to what looked like a hanging ladder. If I wanted to see the famous -stope I had to mount this ladder. It was very narrow, and I felt rather -dubious of my climbing powers; however, it was only about 60 feet high, -so I ventured. I climbed up very carefully and got into the stope quite -safely. After walking along for a few feet I found we had to bend down -to get along; next we came to a small aperture through which we had to -creep; then we could not walk any more, but had to go on our hands and -knees, like our Darwinian ancestors. I had not bargained for this, but -having come down below to go over the 1500-foot stope, I went on. So, -gradually creeping and sometimes walking doubled up, we got to the end -where the men were working. They all threw down their picks and spades -and looked in amazement at me coming along that stope; they never did -it. There was a ladder over 100-ft. long by which they went up and down -to their work. I had been told about this ladder, but I felt afraid of -the 100 feet ascent, and preferred walking, as I thought, through the -stope. I must here explain that the stope was originally quite deep -enough for any one to walk comfortably in, but after the lodes—mineral -veins containing ore—have been taken out, the stopes are filled in with -refuse tailings, which have been treated by cyanide, and later thrown out -for refuse and used as filling-in stuff. Of this I had traversed 1500 -feet, bumping my head innumerable times against the hanging wall. Oh! -I was tired, and the worst of it was that I had to go back, or else go -down in mid-air on a 100-foot ladder. After sitting on a boulder for a -few minutes’ rest, and accepting many compliments from the miners about -my courage, I decided to descend the ladder, which I did in fear and -trembling, but got safely to the bottom, for which I felt duly thankful; -and we went down to another level, and saw much more rich stone waiting -to be taken up; then up to the 400-foot, where the sulpho-telluride ore, -worth 10 ounces to the ton, was being taken out; then to the 200-foot -level, where the rich oxidised ore is. There is a million’s worth of ore -at sight here, and yet in the first year of the mine’s existence many -shares were forfeited for non-payment of 6_d._ calls. The market value is -now over £2,000,000; production of gold, 304,848 ounces. - -[Illustration: Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine] - -After coming up from the Ivanhoe Mine, a telephone message was given -me that the underground manager, Mr. Flynn was waiting at the Boulder -Perseverance Mine to show me over that. So, hastily untying my horse, who -had been taking his food under the shade of the offices of the Ivanhoe, -I hurriedly drove over to the Boulder Perseverance, and after making a -change in my toilet, such as was necessary, jumped into the cage and went -swiftly down to the 300-foot level. Here we stopped and walked through -the long drive to the stopes, where much richness was to be seen; it was -a veritable jewellers’ warehouse. Mr. Flynn gave me a pick and told me -I could knock out some sulphide ore for myself, which I did, and many -beautiful specimens from this mine are in my collection. While here I -heard a tremendous rumbling noise, and thought the mine was falling in. -On inquiry I found that the miners were blasting rock 200 feet below us -at the 500-foot level. I expressed a wish to go there, and Mr. Flynn said -it would not be safe for half an hour, and then I should have to go down -in a bucket, as the cage only went to the 300-foot level. After walking -all over the stopes on this level we went up to the 200-foot level, and -I saw all the wonderful oxidised ore. I learned much during my travels -underground. Oxidised ore is always found on the top levels. At a depth -of 300 feet the sulphide ore, which contains telluride, is reached. - -Going through the various drives we often met miners walking along to -different parts of the mine. We were all carrying candles, so could -peer into each other’s faces, and the look of surprise on some of them -at seeing a strange lady rambling about underground was quite amusing. -Then we would come on a group of workmen at a stope; then sounds of the -rock-drill would make me curious to go in its direction. The heat is -fearful in places where the rock-drill is at work making holes for the -dynamite charge which is to blast out tons of rock. The men were just -going to begin a new hole, so I asked to be allowed to start it. The -sensation was like an electric battery; I held the drill too tight, I -suppose. However, I persevered for fully five minutes, and when we looked -at the machine I was told I had drilled quite a quarter of an inch of -rock, so I felt very proud, especially as they told me no lady had ever -touched the rock-drills down here before. - -[Illustration: Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine] - -By this time I was ready to go down in the bucket, so we took another -walk of about a quarter of a mile along the drive to another shaft called -Lane’s Shaft, named after Mr. Zebina Lane. In this shaft was the bucket. -Never having been in a bucket before for the purpose of a downward -journey of 200 feet I felt a tiny bit nervous. However, the journey was -perfectly safe, and when I arrived at the bottom I saw a grand sight -which I shall never forget. There was still much smoke hanging about from -the blasting. Some 20 men with candles alight were waiting about in the -gloom, some of them partly black from handling powder. Over 70 tons of -sulphide ore had just been blasted out, and lay about in great pieces -and boulders. The cave—for such it looked—fairly sparkled with richness, -the different minerals in the sulphide rock shining like diamonds. I -climbed over the great boulders and went all over the stope, picking out -any sparkling bits that took my fancy, and a miner was sent on ahead to -try the sides for fear of any loose rock falling on me. The lode here is -41 feet wide, and very rich indeed. It was pretty rough climbing, I can -assure you, but I would not have missed it on any account. On the return -journey I went up the entire 500-foot shaft in the bucket, and although -deeply interested by all I saw, I was not sorry to breathe once more in -the sunshine away from dynamite and rocks. - -Some idea of the wealth of this mine may be given by the fact that the -last shipment from the western lode averaged 17 ounces per ton. The -high-grade oxidised ore in the upper levels, of which I spoke before, is -an immensely rich body of mineral, continuing in richness for an eighth -of a mile. Another lode, on a lower level, near the Lake View Consols, -is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, and so phenomenally wide and -rich that even Americans, who are generally apt to throw cold water on -our mines, admit that its equal is unknown in the world; in fact, the -Boulder Perseverance shows every sign of becoming the richest mine on the -field, for the more it is opened up the better it looks and the richer it -becomes. - -Mr. Zebina Lane and Mr. Frank Gardner, besides controlling the Boulder -Perseverance, the Boulder Bonanza, Great Boulder South, and other rich -mines in Western Australia, have more recently taken over Hannan’s Public -Crushing Company, Central Australian Exploration Syndicate, and Collie -Coalfields, lately floated with a capital of £150,000. At the banquet -given to Mr. Lane last year previous to his departure for London, he said -that on this coalfield there was enough coal at sight to last the colony -for 20 years. It was Mr. Lane who in 1893 placed the now wonderful -Great Boulder Mine before London investors. The Boulder Perseverance -Mine shares could at that time be bought for a few shillings, now they -are of high value, and Mr. Lane has made a large fortune out of his -various mining transactions. Among the properties in Western Australia -turning out among them the enormous quantities of gold of which we know, -the properties partly controlled by Mr. Lane have turned out nearly -half. Western Australia has no truer friend than he; he battled on -behalf of the colony for years before prosperity came; went all over the -goldfields, endured all kinds of hardships on the arid plains, and earned -his success fairly. The other two gold mines on the Kalgoorlie field -belonging to the British Westralia Syndicate, and under the part control -of Mr. Lane, namely, the Great Boulder South and Boulder Bonanza, are -lower down the field, over the Golden Hill, and near the Great Boulder -and Lake View Consols. The aforesaid mines join each other, and no -doubt the continuation of the famous lodes of these great mines will be -eventually picked up by the Great Boulder South and Bonanza. The diamond -drill is being used to advantage, and great things may be looked for in -the future from its developments. - -The British Westralia Syndicate was formed by Messrs. F. L. Gardner and -Zebina Lane in October 1894, and registered on the 6th of that month -with a capital of £80,000 fully paid-up shares, the Syndicate really -consisting of only four members, the other two being the late Mr. Barney -Barnato and Mr. Woolf Joel, who was assassinated in Johannesburg. - -Since the incorporation of the company, regular dividends of 50 per -cent. per annum have been paid, and last year a 50 per cent. bonus was -divided in addition. As I said before, the shares now stand high in the -market, and show every likelihood of rising to £20. The Syndicate’s -palatial offices in Moorgate Street are, if not the finest, one of the -finest suites in the city of London. Mr. F. L. Gardner is the chairman -of the company, and Mr. Z. Lane the managing director and superintending -engineer. - -In addition to the above-mentioned mines, Mr. Lane has recently taken in -hand three properties in the Nannine country, Upper Murchison, all of -which have developed into paying properties and are making good returns. - -Mr. F. L. Gardner, chairman of the British Westralia Syndicate and -its offshoots, has long been associated with Australian mining, but -was drawn into West Australian ventures by his old friend Zeb. Lane. -His speculations in Great Boulder, Perseverance, Lake Views, Crushing -Company, Boulder South, and the ever-increasing dividend-paying British -Westralia Syndicate, have amply repaid him for his courage. - -An American by birth, with all the strength of mind and will of a big -investor, he is a tower of strength in the market, known as a man -of strict integrity and sound financial position, being in fact a -millionaire, he has now the strongest following in London, and with Mr. -Zebina Lane to engineer the mines which he controls, will soon be, if he -is not already, the biggest man in the Western Australian Market, which -more particularly concerns this book and this colony than any other -market in which he may operate. Pity it is, for the sake of Western -Australia, that we have not more combinations of such straight-going men -as these two have proved themselves to be; then the investing public -would have more confidence in mining speculations, and would certainly -have, in horse-racing phraseology, a run for their money. - -[Illustration: _Frank Gardner_] - -Mr. Z. Lane, generally known as “Zeb.,” may be described as the pioneer -of successful gold-mining in Western Australia. Born, brought up, -and educated to the mining industry, he for many years successfully -managed the great silver mines of Broken Hill, New South Wales, and was -unanimously elected the first mayor of that city when it grew into a -municipality. He left Broken Hill in 1893, and paid an extended trip -to Western Australia, where, after careful examination, he fixed on -what is now known as the Golden Mile; but as Western Australia was then -so little known, he had difficulty in getting working capital for the -various holdings and had to drop some of them, but pinned his faith to -the Great Boulder and the Perseverance (certainly two of the best), and -floated them both in London amongst his own friends. He started the first -10 stamps on the Boulder on April 10, 1895, afterwards increasing them -by degrees to 30, and has since that date been instrumental in shipping -over 15 tons of gold from the mines under his individual control—surely -a wonderful record in a new waterless country, with so many difficulties -to be contended with! He is a man of few words, but of iron will -and determination, and is one of the most popular men in Western -Australia—has been repeatedly asked to allow himself to be elected to -Parliament and to the Mayorial Chair of Perth, but prefers to look after -his mining interests. Perhaps he is quite right in doing so. He is a -Justice of the Peace for every colony in Australia, is a good public -speaker and debater, and will be greatly missed in Western Australia -should he decide to settle down in London, as many of his co-directors in -the various companies are anxious that he should do. - -[Illustration: Hannan’s Public Crushing Company] - -Crossing another road I came to the Brookman Boulder, a very fine mine. -Mr. Brookman has amassed a large fortune and settled in Perth, and is -spending his money where he made it, instead of going away to other -countries to live, as most of the lucky people do. Mr. Brookman and -Captain Oats recently paid a visit to Ballarat, the Queen Gold City of -Victoria, and at a banquet given in his honour, Mr. Brookman said that in -a few years Kalgoorlie would, no doubt, be as fine a city as Ballarat, an -opinion with which I most emphatically agree. I must mention that this is -one of the places that caused such a stir in the world fifty years ago, -on account of the wonderful goldfinds there. - -Two of the largest nuggets found in the district were the Welcome in -1858, weight 154 lbs., value £8872; and the Welcome Stranger in 1869, -weight 190 lbs., value £9000. I trust this digression will be pardoned. - -[Illustration: Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House] - -There are two large and splendidly furnished clubs here, namely, Hannan’s -and Kalgoorlie for the well-to-do, and several institutes, affording -opportunities for reading and recreation to the miners. I must not forget -to mention the fine park, cricket ground, and racecourse. - -Having finished my journey round the wonderful mines, I feel how poor -has been my description of them. It has been almost impossible even to -mention half the important discoveries that have been made in these -marvellous chambers of the earth. I have tried to explain some of the -developments that stand out most strikingly. The rapid progress that is -being made in all ways makes it quite safe to say that what has already -been done is as nothing to what will be done in the future, and that -by the time the new century is a few years old, and all the latest -processes of extracting gold from the ores are in full swing, we may hear -of such great returns as will amaze the most incredulous. As I go along -the three miles between Boulder City and Kalgoorlie, and think of the -wonders I have seen, it seems quite safe to say that very soon the whole -three miles will be covered with buildings and the predicted population -of 300,000 an actual fact. - -The scale of wages on the field is as follows:— - - MINE MANAGERS’ ASSOCIATION SCALE. - - OCCUPATION. RATE PER DAY. - _s._ _d._ - Timbermen 13 4 - Rock-drill men 13 4 - Miners (wet) 13 4 - Bracemen 11 0 - Truckers 10 6 - Blacksmiths 15 0 - Labourers 10 0 - Carpenters 15 0 - Millmen 13 0 - Batterymen 11 8 - Battery boys 8 4 - Engine drivers, 1st 13 4 - Pitmen 16 8 - Assistants 12 6 - Miners (dry) 11 8 - Plattmen 11 0 - Tool sharpeners 13 4 - Strikers 11 0 - Draymen 11 8 - Fitters 15 0 - Masons 15 0 - Feeders 10 0 - Cranide labourers 11 8 - Engine drivers, 2nd 11 8 - -There are more than 6500 men working in the Kalgoorlie mines, and over -£28,000 weekly is paid in wages. The cable from the Government to the -Agent-General for Western Australia, London, October 1901, gave the -crushing returns of the colony for that year as 1,580,950 ounces, valued -at £6,007,610, making a total gold production of £27,726,233 sterling. -Several millions of money have been paid to the shareholders of the -various mines in dividends since the Adelaide and Coolgardie Syndicate -took up the ground at the Boulder, and that ground, which was chaffingly -alluded to by the prospector’s friends as a “sheep farm,” has certainly -produced many “golden fleeces.” - -The Kalgoorlie field has yielded in its short life over thirty-one -tons of gold, Western Australia’s total output since it first entered -the world’s list as a gold-producer in 1886 is sixty-two tons of solid -gold; now, with the new machinery that is being erected, with the latest -methods for extracting gold from ore, it will not be surprising if the -output from each of our golden giant mines should shortly be doubled. -In all the mines I have been down there is enough amazingly rich ore at -sight to keep the crushing stamps going for years. Miners should be proud -of having brought Western Australia into the position of the greatest -gold-producing country in the world. - -The Witwatersrand, South Africa, has but a narrow belt of gold-producing -country, thirty miles long. In Western Australia the auriferous belt is -over one thousand miles in length, and three hundred miles in width, and -out of a territory of 975,920 square miles, the area of the goldfields is -324,111 square miles. Bear raids and slumps may come and go, unscrupulous -speculators may cause depression in the share market through bad reports -for their own gain, “but the gold is here,” and energy, pluck, and -perseverance, will overcome all the difficulties there may be to obtain -it, in this truly golden West. - - - - -[Illustration: Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna] - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - - Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father - Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong. - - -Looking at the town of Kanowna, White Feather, at the present time, one -can hardly believe that two years ago there were 20,000 people there. It -is now a quiet settled little town, the outskirts riddled with holes, -like an immense rabbit warren. Even what was once the large cemetery is -now dug up in all directions, with just a little plot fenced in where -burials had really taken place. The other portion, which, owing to the -richness of the surrounding ground, was thrown open for digging, had, of -course, not been used for burial purposes. I first went to Kanowna in -November 1897, at the commencement of the great rush. I wanted to see -a rush on the spot, and accordingly started one morning by coach from -Kalgoorlie. On arrival at Kanowna, quite a stranger, I had to carry my -own portmanteau around and look for a hotel to stay at. There was no -sign of a man about the little town. I afterwards found that all the -men were up at the Lead, as it was called. At this time there were only -three hotels in the town, now there are more than twelve. I was fortunate -enough to secure the only vacant room in Donnelon’s Hotel; so, after -getting off some of the red dust of the 12-mile coach ride I started -for the said Lead, about half a mile from the hotel. When I first saw -it I was amazed, not only at the number of tents and bough-houses, the -thousands of windlasses at work, the thousands of men with tin dishes -washing the ore for gold, the thousands of cradles (not babies’) being -rocked for the same purpose, but at the thousands of men rushing about in -all directions in a state of wild excitement. People at that time came -from all directions to see the wonderful alluvial field—miners to take -up claims, speculators to buy out claims, men to buy gold, men to buy -ore, and plenty of people only as spectators, who wanted to see the gold -as it was washed off. In this, however, they did not always succeed, for -those men who had time to do it had made bough-sheds and pitched tents, -and had their cradles inside, where they could wash their ore in privacy, -and not let everybody know how many ounces would go to the dish. It was -my good fortune to make friends with many of the mining-parties and to -see the gold washed off, often 8 and 10 ounces to the tin dish. Many -nice little slugs were given me by those kindly miners as a souvenir of -my visit. Many days in succession I visited the Lead, as it was called; -much kindness did I receive, and many a billy of tea was boiled for my -refreshment. - -At the beginning of the Lead the first claim was held by Sim and Gresson; -the latter joined the second Australian Contingent, and has since been -fighting for our Queen in Africa. George Sim, the original finder of the -rich cement ore, told me that he had worked there for 18 months, with -very poor results, and yet felt sure of ultimate success, so that he was -not surprised when one day he “struck it rich,” as the miners’ saying -goes, and since then he and his partners have been taking out cement, -full of rich gold, as fast as pick and shovel can dig, and have taken -over £10,000 worth of gold out of their ground. The next claim, held -by Morris, Long, and party, also turned out very rich. From 60 tons of -cement they obtained 555 ounces of gold, 200 ounces of this being taken -from the dish, that is, obtained merely by washing the stuff in the -dish and picking out the gold; the rest was treated at the battery. The -cement is a greenish-looking stuff, more like pipeclay than anything I -have ever seen. Most of it crumbles up in the hand when touched, and the -gold is plainly visible, but there are occasionally some hard lumps as -well. There were hundreds of other claims around here, notably that of P. -McManus, Huntington, and party. Poor Paddy McManus has since joined the -great majority. He was one of the best and kindliest of men on the field -and was regretted by all. This claim yielded an enormous quantity of -gold. Then Tassy O’Connor, Doyle, and party’s claims, called the Arctic -Circle and Klondyke, yielded the partners a fortune each. Ninety tons -crushed for Jackson and party yielded the handsome return of 497 ounces -of gold. At Casey’s Claim, the day I was there, they had just washed -off some wonderfully rich coarse gold. They had about 40 ounces of the -precious metal in a frying-pan, no other article being available to hold -it since all the tin dishes were required for gold washing purposes. Some -nice pieces of gold, running to about 27 dwts., are often found in these -dishes. - -[Illustration: Deep Lead, Kanowna] - -These claims, with numbers of others just as rich, were on the Main, -or Fitzroy Lead; on the right, and to the north, was the North Lead, -where more riches have been found. Eaton and party refused a large sum -for a ninth interest in their claim; they were making hundreds a week, -and none of them felt disposed to sell out. Close to this claim was the -famous Donegal. While I was there four buckets of ore were brought to the -surface thick with gold, and when washed were found to contain nearly -300 ounces. There was great excitement on the Lead that day, although -the miners keep things of that sort as much as possible to themselves. -It is reckoned that £12,000 worth of gold has been obtained from this -claim alone. The Red, White and Blue Company have also taken phenomenal -quantities of gold from their claim near the Donegal, about £600 or £700 -worth of gold having been taken from the earth every week. Many of these -men who had now struck such wonderful good luck had previously worked for -years for what in mining parlance is called “tucker” (food). No doubt -pluck and perseverance are the two essentials required, and if everybody -could see the 12,000 miners on Kanowna field as I saw them, and could -hear of all the hardships that the majority of them had endured prior -to striking this rich field, no one would deny that their good fortune -was deserved. Another very rich lead was called the Golden Valley. Here -the ore chiefly obtained was that called “pug”; it proved very rich, but -there was great difficulty in extracting the gold from it until a special -process was discovered. The Death Valley and Cemetery Claims also proved -to be very rich. Enormous quantities of gold were taken from Kanowna -in 12 months; but it is difficult to obtain really accurate returns of -an alluvial field, as many miners keep quantities of their gold, while -others carry it away and sell it at different places; but I saw with my -own eyes the enormous richness of the field, and, if I never see another -alluvial rush, shall consider I was in luck when I saw Kanowna, not only -because of the information I received, the money I made by being advised -in what to speculate, but for the mere sake of seeing the place as it was -in the full tide of its golden glory. There were no very large nuggets at -this rush, but about two years before, at a place called Black Flag, one -weighing 303 ounces was found; it was called “The Joker.” In company with -it were four other nuggets and a piece of quartz containing 60 ounces of -gold. The Joker was an exceptionally bright piece of gold, three-cornered -in shape, with a bit out of one base. The other nuggets weighed 73 -ounces, 51 ounces, 37 ounces, and a little over 10 ounces respectively. -All of this gold was found at a depth of 6 feet, and in the course of one -week’s work, the total weight being 537 ounces. One day all Kanowna and -the surrounding country were roused to a state of tremendous excitement -by the report spread by Father Long, the parish priest, that an enormous -nugget, weighing 1636 ounces, valued at £6500, had been found close by, -and had been named the Sacred Nugget, or the “Golden Sickle.” When the -news reached Koolgarlie and Coolgardie, parties were organised, horses -and buggies, cabs, carts, bicycles, and every other available vehicle -taken possession of, and thousands of persons started for Kanowna field. -In the meantime no authentic information could be obtained in Kanowna -as to the place from which this tremendous lump of gold had come, the -lucky finders keeping that a profound secret. However, search-parties -were organised, and set off to look for the spot whence the nugget came, -some one having given the slight clue: “It was near the Dry Lake.” Off -the parties went to the neighbourhood indicated, and a very lively drive -they had. It took an hour to reach the Lake, and there a consultation -took place. It was decided to skirt along the Lake, but nothing came in -sight except a boundless track of low bush. Another halt took place, when -a journalist among the search-party, more venturesome than the rest, -climbed a steep hill, and at once gave a loud “Hullo!” Every one thought -the object of the journey had been attained. The spy had discovered -tents some distance away. Off went the horses and vehicles at a hard -gallop. The tents were all a dream, however. There were no tents, and -there was nothing in sight. It was resolved to turn round and try in -another direction. At another likely spot a halt was again made, and here -occurred the most amusing incident. One of the vehicles had been left -by all its occupants except a lady. Everybody was engaged in individual -searching when a loud cry from the lady recalled every one to the drag. -Perhaps she had been more fortunate. “Look there!” said she; “look at -all these men running and shouting;” and lo and behold, about 200 men -were seen rushing down an adjacent hill toward the party, each with a -branch of a tree. It appeared, however, that the newcomers had only been -following the conveyances. Off went the vehicles again, down the Lake, -up the Lake, and round the Lake. Everywhere did these parties go, but -no gold or signs of habitation were seen. Father Long was besieged by -people, over 300 visiting his camp to find out where the lucky spot was, -but the priest said it was told to him under the seal, and he could not -divulge the spot. After searching all over the country near to Kanowna -no discoveries were made, and the searchers returned sadder but wiser -men. You may be sure Father Long came in for no small share of abuse from -thousands of disappointed people. The truth of this remarkable story has -never come to light, but it is quite certain that no such nugget was ever -found, no official notice of it having been recorded, and no bank ever -having had charge of it. Father Long has since passed away from earth and -nuggets, dying of typhoid fever in Perth Hospital in May 1899, and what -was his share in reporting the find will never now be known. Many people -are inclined to think that Father Long really thought he did see the -nugget, and therefore spoke of it in good faith. A version of the affair -given me by a good authority at Kanowna, after it had all blown over, was -that a certain party of men, who owned one of the richest claims in the -neighbourhood, had all the gold they had collected for some time at one -of the hotels and that one of the partners, an Irishman, placed all the -lumps and pieces of gold together in the form of a sickle, and called it -the “Golden Sickle,” the collection of pieces looking exactly like a huge -lump of gold. Father Long, being near at hand, was invited to see the -splendid specimen, which he immediately blessed and called the “Sacred -Nugget.” The partners did not undeceive him, but bound him to secrecy -concerning the names of the party who found it and the alleged locality -from whence it came. This promise poor Father Long faithfully kept, -thereby gaining for himself the condemnation of the multitude. None of -the partners were brave enough to own what they had done, and Father Long -had to bear the burden to the last. - -[Illustration: Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna] - -In those times Kanowna was a place never to be forgotten. At night, after -work was over, thousands of men used to flock into the little town, -and the three hotels being quite inadequate to their wants, grog-shops -existed in dozens and plied a big trade. I must say, however, that, -considering all things, Kanowna was in general strikingly orderly and -peaceful. Of course there were occasional fights. We witnessed several -from the balcony of the hotel, the only place where we could sit in the -hot summer evenings. The hotel was crowded, hundreds were unable to get -served, and men were waiting five deep in the bars; all drinks cost -1_s._ The hotel-keepers made rapid fortunes from the bars, and were, -besides, partners in claims on the Lead. Two hundred and thirty thousand -ounces of gold have been obtained from this great alluvial field. It -is well known that miners, more especially the prospectors, are very -kind-hearted and resourceful men. If they “strike it rich” they spend -money freely, and are generous to a fault to any old mates they may -meet who have not been so fortunate as themselves. It cannot be denied -that, for strong and able-bodied young men, life in the West, with its -freedom and many chances of good luck, is one not to be despised. Men -from surprisingly different classes are to be met on the goldfields, and -yet, so to speak, all classes are alike. I met during my travels on the -Lead several university men who were trying their luck with the pick and -shovel, and were not ashamed of their clay-stained moleskins. There are -a good many new chums (arrivals), easily recognisable. The nobility is -also represented; one trooper who was there belonged to a noble family -in England. Another, a sprig of Scotch nobility, was on one of the -large mines adjacent to Kanowna, and was said to be a fine fellow and -universally liked. One meets quite a large proportion of men and women -recently arrived from the old country, who seem always to make for the -goldfields by preference, while most Australians seem to love the towns -and want to stay there. There are several deep-level mines within a short -distance of Kanowna, none of them, however, calling for special mention, -with the exception of the White Feather Main Reefs, which occasionally -gives a good yield, and the managers of which look on it as having better -things still in store; recent crushings have been highly satisfactory, -and future ones are expected largely to increase the profits of the -shareholders. - -Bulong is a mining township 12 miles from Kanowna, and as several good -finds have been made there, one of 500 ounces of gold, I should not be at -all surprised to hear of a more sensational find some day, followed by -the inevitable rush. The Queen Margaret Mine has given good returns, and -there are a number of men on the alluvial ground who make a good living, -and a little to spare, all the year round. The ground has not been -thoroughly prospected yet, and its worth remains to be decided. Sixteen -miles from Bulong, at Black Hills, two men, who had been prospecting, -lately came across a nice little find of 2000 ounces of gold from a few -tons of quartz. The usual subsequent rush to rich finds of course took -place. In October 1900 a large nugget weighing 13 lb. was found by a man -named Eddy, at Kurnalpi, about 40 miles from here, not 200 yards from -the place where the nugget weighing 168 ounces was found the year before -by John Symonds. Kurnalpi has been one of the richest districts of the -goldfields, and who knows how soon some still more sensational finds may -startle us all! - - - - -[Illustration: Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow] - - - - -CHAPTER XX - - Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in the - Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and - Cake—Native Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat of - the Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh Water. - - -I went back to Kalgoorlie this time by train, the railway having now been -open over twelve months; stayed at Wilkie’s Hotel, opposite the station, -and found it most comfortable as well as convenient. Wilkie Brothers, who -were the successful tenderers for the Coolgardie Railway (which brought -them a profit of £300,000) own this hotel. The next morning I set out for -more goldfields, and arrived at the Menzies after an interesting journey -through various small townships, Paddington and Broad Arrow being the -best. There are some large mines at Paddington giving excellent returns. -Broad Arrow, a very nice little place, has lately been the scene of an -alluvial rush, and the usual population of 300 was quickly increased -to 3000. There are a post-office, four hotels, several stores, and a -good many shops, as well as some nice dwelling-houses. It is now a very -thriving place of some importance and a scene of bustling activity. -Shops which a short time ago would not let at any price now command such -rents as their owners scarcely dreamed would ever be possible. There -are several very rich claims which have bottomed on rich gold; in fact, -gold is everywhere. The extent and value of the golden ground can only be -conjectured. One claim, called the Blue Duck, was exceptionally good; so -is the Maltese Cross; while the Bird’s Nest is a veritable golden hole. -The names of these claims struck me as being very peculiar; another rich -one, owned by men who, until they struck this, had had a continued stream -of ill-luck, is called the Battlers’ Reward, and indeed they richly -deserved their splendid find, the gold from which stands out to the wash -in halfpenny-weight pieces. - -Farther along the line is Bardoc, from which place much rich gold has -been won. It was at Bardoc that an accident recently happened in one of -the mines, a poor man being killed by five tons of rock falling on him. - -Twenty-six miles before we reached Menzies was Goongarrie, which a few -years ago made a great sensation in the mining world. - -[Illustration: Part of Lady Shenton Battery] - -Menzies was the nicest small mining town I had seen. There was a -wonderful air of prosperity about it. As I walked up the principal -street it seemed almost to say, “This is a good place,” and the people -were extremely kind to the stranger in their midst. Until quite recently -Menzies was one of the “back-block” towns, only accessible by coach from -Kalgoorlie, a distance of 90 miles. The people in what we Australians -call coach-towns always seem more genial and warm-hearted than those -who can pop into a train and be whirled along to the metropolis, and -Menzies only having had the train service recently has not had time to -get spoiled. I think it is because of their isolation that people in -these places, as a rule, hail strange faces with more pleasure than -others do. There are some very nice houses in Menzies, and the hotels -are especially good. The Grand Hotel (I can speak from experience) is a -model of comfort. A very well-built post-office and court-house adorn the -town, and there are many other substantial buildings in the place, which -is, no doubt, a most important centre of business and industry, and -which has made great strides during the last twelve months, especially -since it received a new impetus from the advent of the railway. The -town is literally surrounded by mines, not only of gold; copper has -been found near in lodes of 50 feet wide, that bear 5 dwts. of gold as -well as 60 per cent. of copper. Menzies is quite a young town, and is -named after Mr. Menzies, the explorer, who, in 1894, went prospecting -from Kalgoorlie to see if he could discover any more Kalgoorlies. After -travelling some weeks he discovered some rich “shows,” and telegraphed to -the syndicate, of which Sir George Shenton and the Hon. H. J. Saunders -are head, to that effect. Application for ground was made and accepted, -and works afterwards commenced, with what success may be imagined from -the results of that noble mine the Lady Shenton, which, since 1897, -has paid 12 dividends of over £88,000, besides expending large sums of -money on machinery, &c. The Lady Shenton Mine occupies 36 acres of land. -There is a splendid electric-light installation, both on the surface and -underground, at the main shaft as well as in the crushing-sheds, and -in many other places where it is useful. The total output of the mine -is 97,278 ounces of smelted gold, exclusive of gold from tailings and -concentrates, the latter sometimes giving a very high percentage of gold, -since as much as 327 ounces had been taken from 73 tons when I was there; -14,000 tons of tailings were awaiting treatment. Some time ago, when Sir -Gerard Smith visited the mine, luncheon was served to the visitors in the -300-foot level. I happened to be at the Lady Shenton Mine at “crib” time, -and after “crib” the miners went out with their football to have a game -before beginning work again. They were fine looking specimens of colonial -manhood, and seemed thoroughly to enjoy their friendly game. - -The sleeping tents of the miners are some little distance from the mine, -but there were several dinner tents close by. The men form themselves -into little parties of five or six, taking it in turns to act as house -boy, or, as I should say, tent boy. In the day time the menu is cold, and -looking at the stock of tins of preserved meats (elegantly termed tinned -dog), fish, jam, milk, cake, and vegetables, it is easy to see that -they do not neglect their meals. Why should they, since they are in the -receipt of high and regular wages? - -The next large mine is the Queensland Menzies, from which there have -been large returns. There are some other first-class mines from which -great things are expected. Four miles from Menzies is Kensington, where -there are more good mines, also two splendid breweries. I next travelled -across the country for about four miles, all alone, with only the pony -I was driving for company; but happening, with my usual luck, to strike -the right track and not get lost, I came to the Four Mile, where there -is a little township (small settlement), and a magnificent mine called -the Menzies Consolidated. There are 120 men engaged on this mine, who -form quite a little colony by themselves. There is a fine tennis court, -where several of the officials of the mine were enjoying a game. Mrs. -Strickland, the sub-manager’s wife, insisted on getting tea and cake for -me, and seeing that my horse also was refreshed after the heat of the -day. On my way back to Menzies by another road, a metalled one this time, -I passed many prospectors and dry-blowers, who all seemed quite satisfied -with what they were getting. When I got in sight of Menzies I took a -short cut through the Bush, and found I had to pass through abandoned -alluvial diggings and several shut-down mines. I was glad to get back -again on to the hard road and to Menzies, for the shades of night were -falling fast. Next morning I learned from the paper that a murder had -been committed by natives and the body found near Kensington the day -before. I must have passed quite close to it, and am very glad I did not -see it. Many crimes are committed in these remote parts, the perpetrators -of which are never discovered. A long-standing mystery has just been -solved: a man named McInnes disappeared about two years ago; he was known -to be a thorough Bushman, and fora few days no notice was taken of his -disappearance. However, as he did not return search-parties went out to -look for him, but he was never found. Shortly after his supposed death -his brother came from Victoria, took charge of his affairs, and vowed -that he would never leave the colony until he had solved the mystery of -his brother’s disappearance. This has apparently been done by a blackboy -named Tiger, who found the skeleton of a man at the Bullarchi Rocks, 12 -miles off, and Mr. McInnes, the brother of the missing man, being sent -for, identified the remains as those of his long-lost brother. The poor -fellow had evidently, in Western vernacular, “done a perish,” like so -many others, in the course of searching for gold. - -An extraordinary meteor was witnessed here a short time ago. A -magnificent ball of fire shot across the heavens from the north-west to -the north-east, leaving an almost straight trail of light behind it. At -the head of this trail of light appeared a ball of fire, which became -gradually diffused around the luminous trail or meteor in convolutions -resembling the movements of a serpent. For some moments the display -bore a likeness of a pillar of light with a serpent twined around it. -Gradually this semblance was transformed into the figure of a man -standing upright, with his arms partly spread and his hands clasped. -This form grew gradually into an attitude as if the figure were about -to spring, the head and shoulders being inclined forwards and the legs -slightly drawn up, and in this attitude it remained till the luminosity, -gradually becoming paler, was absorbed in the silver light of the -breaking day. Altogether the phenomenon lasted from 10 to 15 minutes. - -[Illustration: MESSRS. A. FORREST AND J. DUNN ON A PROSPECTING TOUR] - -To the west of Menzies is Mulline, where there are some very rich mines. -Mr. De Baun, of Perth, has a mine there from which he recently brought -to Perth a very nice little cake of gold weighing 447 ounces, valued at -£1700. Then on the east side there are Yerilla, Pendinnie, and Eujidine; -here the Nita Mine, lately called the North Fingall, has recently had a -fine crushing. At Pendinnie, 120 miles from Menzies, a find lately took -place, and the scene along the road was a repetition on a smaller scale -of the rush to the Boulder a few years ago. Camel and horse teams crowded -the way, and everybody was smitten with the feverish race to get to the -promising spot; nothing stupendous has yet been found, but the place is -good and fair results have been obtained. The Waihi Mine, about 32 miles -from Menzies, is one of the latest sensations, and promises to be of -great value. Much of the stone is being broken out, showing rich gold, -and, on being tested, gave results from 6 to 20 ounces per ton. Although -only discovered in October 1900, the lucky prospectors in November were -offered £20,000 for the mine by a syndicate, and since then a company has -been floated and over a hundred thousand shares taken up. - -I went on by coach to Mount Malcolm from Menzies. Certainly there was not -much but sand and scrub to be seen in the way of scenery. We arrived at -Niagara, the end of the first 30-mile stage, quite ready for dinner at 1 -o’clock. This little place did not present a very attractive appearance; -in fact, it was most remarkably dull looking. The mining district of -Niagara is scattered, but there are some good mines about. After the -60-mile coach drive I was very pleased to see the lights of the little -town of Mount Malcolm appear, which is the most typical mining place I -have ever seen. As I strolled down the one street in the morning I said -to myself, “I am indeed getting away from town life, and shall now see -real mining business to my heart’s content.” The coach journey is indeed -terrible, the road being almost one sand patch, and the horses having to -walk a great part of the way, so the sooner the railway comes the better -for all parties concerned. There seemed to be some grass growing about -Malcolm, which was quite a fresh sight for me, and I am sure a boon for -the horses and their owners in these parts, where fodder is so expensive. -Then the beautiful supply of fresh water is a blessing to every one, -and a great aid to the development of the country, the work of digging -for gold being rendered so much easier than in the sterile wastes of -country where water is scarce. Mount Malcolm might almost be called -Windmill Town, on account of the windmills over the wells; nearly all -the public-houses and many private places have their own water supply. -The gold escort had just gone down, taking the month’s gold to Perth. -I saw it start from the post-office, which is quite a nice large one -for a mining township. The warden’s offices, or court-house, are nearly -opposite—such a funny place!—just two Hessian tents with bough-sheds -built over to protect them from the sun. (A new warden’s office has -since been built.) There is no lock-up here, so any one who misbehaves -is chained to a small tree not far from the court-house and left there -all night. This seemed to me a custom more fit for the barbarous dark -ages than this enlightened century. A little while ago a man was chained -up for being intoxicated. It appears he woke from his tipsy sleep in the -night and felt very thirsty. He tried to get the chain off his leg, but -could not. The tree they had chained him to that night did not happen to -be firm enough in the ground, for he pulled and pulled until he got it -uprooted, and then made his way down the street to an hotel, dragging -chain and tree after him, and with his blanket fluttering in the wind -made night hideous with his cries and woke the whole town with his noise. -As the authorities could not give him a month under the tree for this, -they packed him off in the coach next morning to the nearest gaol. - -There are not many mines in the immediate vicinity of Malcolm. The -Richmond Gem was under exemption, also at that time under a cloud, but it -had been a good mine, and will, no doubt, recover itself. Another large -mine about half a mile out is the North Star, where very good results -have been obtained. There are many men employed here, and on Saturday -nights they come into Malcolm and make the little township lively. A -novel procession passed up the street while I was there; it was a new -engine for the Malcolm Mohr battery, drawn by 14 horses, and caused quite -a flutter of excitement. Malcolm was comparatively quiet, as there was a -rush to Mertonville, 18 miles off. - -The ex-Premier, at a recent visit, said that when he was last in the -district, 30 years ago, he stood on and named Mount Malcolm, and in -those days never thought that it would be the centre of a great mining -district. On the earlier occasion he was at the head of a small exploring -expedition sent to see whether the reports of the natives that white men -had been murdered there were true; it was thought that these white men -might be members of Leichhardt’s expedition. - -During my stay at Mount Malcolm I was shown many really beautiful -specimens by the managers of some of the principal mines. Many of these -were from deep levels, and would, I am sure, much surprise many people -who are sceptical about the richness of the mines in these parts. I -received some very pretty little specimens, souvenirs of my visit, -which I shall always value very much. There is no lack of money; every -one appeared to be well off. The following story may serve to show -what a lucky miner will sometimes do after he has had a good crushing -or found some good specimens. A man who had unearthed a nice slug—30 -ounces—in the Lake Way district came into Malcolm for a spree, and on -one occasion, while drinking “not wisely, but too well,” he upbraided -the Hebe behind the counter for wiping the glasses with an old towel. -The delinquent pleaded poverty as an excuse, and straightway the accuser -threw down ten sovereigns and suggested the purchase of a new towel. -Another man at another township, who had a splendid claim, and had taken -over £2000 worth of gold from it, has now not a penny, because every -time he realised on his gold he immediately spent the whole sum in the -hotels. As there are but two of these in the township, they have made -good profits from this man’s mine. When he has spent all his money, -the hotel-keepers put him into a cart and drive him out to the mine to -recover himself. After he has done so, he usually sets to work for a -month or two, and unearths some more nuggets for another spree (drunk). - -Shortly after breakfast a few friends and myself drove to some nice -gardens a little way from town. Although the weather was very warm, -everything was delightfully fresh and green, the flowers were smelling -sweetly, and the vegetables a perfect picture. What a blessing is -plenty of fresh water! Any quantity can be got here by digging a -well, and the experts from the Goldfields Water Supply Department, -who were here recently, say that the country between the hills is -really a subterreanean reservoir extending for miles. We drove on to -the Mount, which is five miles farther away. A splendid view of the -surrounding country for fully 30 miles is obtained from the Mount. The -Trigonometrical Station here is very interesting. We had lunch on the -very top of the hill, and returned to Malcolm in good spirits, having -passed a most enjoyable day. - -Daseyhurst, 35 miles from Menzies, is a coming goldfield, and North’s -Consolidated Blocks, owned by Mr. J. H. North and Mr. W. E. Millar, may -yet rival the fame of Great Westralian Mount Morgans, of which mine these -gentlemen were the pioneers. Mr. North has recently successfully floated -a company in London to further develop the North Consolidated, and we -expect to hear great things in the future from this promising mine. - - - - -[Illustration: Merton’s Find, Mertondale] - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - - A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold - everywhere—A Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! - Murrin!—A Welcome Surprise—Western Australian Mount - Morgans—Golden Hills—Blackfellows on the Trail—The Lagoon. - - -My investigations at Mount Malcolm took me some days, so, after a good -rest and pleasant time at that very lively little township, I started one -Friday, at 7 o’clock, for the new goldfield of Mertondale, to which there -was a rush. One morning Malcolm folk woke up to the startling news that -a new and phenomenal rush had begun 18 miles off. Soon everybody was on -the _qui vive_ to see it. All the vehicles in the township were loaded, -and the male population started _en masse_ for the new find. It turned -out to be a great one, and many stories have been told me concerning -the richness of it. There was nothing of great interest on the road to -Mertondale. A bough-shed off the road in the distance, pointed out to -me as the place where a prospector had lately chosen to shuffle off -this mortal coil by cutting his throat, and that just as his claim had -struck gold, was about all that varied the monotony of the journey. The -Australian Peer Mine was the first seen on the road. It was the one at -which Merton and Gallagher were working when Merton went out one day on -his bicycle to look for a lost horse and found the lucky hill which has -since yielded so much gold. Mr. Merton said that when he discovered it -he did not think it was so good, until he commenced breaking the stone -he picked up on it, and found in every instance that it contained gold. -After discovering the reef he applied for a lease, and put on two men to -work at carrying out the quartz. The stone had to be taken two miles to -the Waitekari Battery, but in the short space of two months £3206 worth -of gold was crushed. A short time afterwards, Mr. Merton, who was a poor -man at the time of the find, purchased a 20-head battery, and now crushes -the stone on the spot where it is found. The reef of solid quartz is 100 -feet wide, and traverses the whole of Merton’s area of 36 acres. He said -that he would want a higher price, cash down, for his holding than has -ever been paid for any mining property in Western Australia; so, from a -poor man, a few months have made this lucky prospector a millionaire. -On arriving at Mertondale the sound of the battery waked the stillness -of the morning. The township is very small as yet, merely a few Hessian -houses and tents, but I saw before me the hill, with the battery in full -work, in which I was interested. So I asked the driver of the coach to -take me there, which he did as a very great favour, for he was carrying -the mail and had not yet been to the Bush-house post-office. However, as -it was a very hot day, gallantry to the fair sex prevailed and the mail -had to wait. I got down from the coach at the foot of the hill, and at -the battery-house found Mr. Robinson, the manager, who kindly took me -round and showed me everything of interest. First he went to the spot -where Merton picked up the first rich stone. Plenty of it was still lying -about. We went down into the open cut (or quarries) where the men were -digging out the stone. I took a pick and dug out a piece myself, striking -rich gold at the first stroke. Several other pieces followed, and I keep -them as specimens. We then went down the underlay shaft, on the western -side of the big quarry. It was 12 feet deep. I got down by means of a -rope, two of the men at the bottom holding their spades against the sides -of the shaft for me to put my feet on. I managed to make a successful -descent and began to use the pick again with much success. I could see -the gold running through the rock quite plainly, so, having permission to -do so, dug out several nice pieces, after which I essayed to climb the -rope to the surface again, and, assisting myself by sticking my feet upon -the jutting pieces of rock on the sides of the shaft, I soon got out of -the rich hole. I then walked all over the hill and found many pieces of -quartz lying about, all containing gold. Mr. Robinson afterwards took me -to the battery and showed me the plates into which the gold and amalgam -run after being crushed by the mill. I scraped some of the rich stuff off -the plates; to my disappointment it looked like silver, but Mr. Robinson -explained to me that this colour is caused by the action of the mercury -used in the process, and that when smelted pure gold appears. Some idea -of the power of the mercury may be given by this fact: I put in paper -the piece which I had scraped off and placed it in my purse, in which -was a gold ring that I had just put there to take to be repaired. Next -morning, when I went to take it out, the gold ring was gone, but a silver -one remained. The jeweller had to retort it (put it in fire) to regain -its colour. Merton’s Hill is, no doubt, a perfect mine of wealth, and, -so far, all on the surface, as the deepest digging then was the 12-foot -shaft I have mentioned. Over £40,000 worth of gold had been taken out in -the few months since the beginning of the rush, besides fully 20,000 tons -of rich stone that will give 7 or 8 ounces to the ton, and as every ounce -is worth nearly £4, a nice little sum is looking at lucky Merton out of -the stone.[5] There are many other claims on the field, but the one on -the hill is the most valuable. It gives gold, gold everywhere. I was so -much taken with this wonderful place that I pegged out an 18-acre lease -for myself, and am hoping to strike a rich patch on it at some not far -distant day. In the Golden West one never knows when luck may come to one. - -It was great fun and hard work pegging out that lease. To enable one to -do so, in the first place one must be provided with a miner’s right, -which costs ten shillings per year; this document enables the holder -to take up any ground he or she desires (not previously taken) in -mining country; after the lease has been approved by the Warden of the -Goldfields, one may start and dig or put men on to dig, and the gold -found would be private property; if, however, any one dug and found gold -without these preliminaries, the precious metal would have to be handed -over to the Warden as the property of the Government. - -Behold me then (knowing all this, and having secured a miner’s right -before I left Perth) accompanied by some kindly miners and the lady under -whose roof (canvas) I was domiciled, with my sleeves tucked up and a -spade in my hands digging holes for the pegs to be put in, which must -be done personally; as it was an 18-acre lease the distance between the -four pegs was considerable, and required some walking to be done in the -hot and dusty morning. However, I successfully planted my pegs, marked my -number on them, and after paying the fees in the Warden’s Court at Mount -Malcolm on my return, I became a leaseholder. - -Another rich find had lately been made at Wilson’s Creek, 30 miles from -this place, by two prospectors named Paddy Crowley and Dick Donovan. Over -twelve months ago they found some alluvial gold there, but until a few -months since nothing phenomenal; then they found a lode at a depth of 10 -feet, with rich leaders running in all directions. One of the partners -went into Malcolm the other day with a bagful of specimens weighing 372 -ounces, and the other partner is digging out more as fast as he can. -Mr. Hamilton, of the Great Boulder Mine, Kalgoorlie, recently visited -Mertondale, and gave it as his opinion that the place would turn out a -second Great Boulder and the Flying Pig Mine a second Golden Horseshoe. -As yet all the gold obtained has been found near the surface, and if the -deposit continues down lower the possibility of incredible wealth lies -in this wonderful spot. As yet Western Australia’s surface seems only to -have been scratched in a few places. If the bodies of ore prove to go -down, Mertondale bids fair to outrival the Boulder, Kalgoorlie. - -[Illustration: MR. ALICK FORREST INSPECTING DUNN’S SHAFT NEAR MOUNT -MORGANS] - -The weather being intensely hot—109°—I decided to return to Malcolm in -the moonlight, and a friend succeeded, after a great deal of trouble (for -horses and vehicles are not yet very common here), in borrowing the only -horse on the field, and managed to get an old buckboard buggy to drive me -down. Camels are the usual mode of transit in this district, but I refuse -to ride these animals. - -Starting the next morning by coach from Malcolm at half-past five for -Westralian Mount Morgans, I was fortunate in having the box-seat of the -coach. A cool breeze had sprung up in the night, no doubt accompanied -by a willy willy, which, as I told you before, is a terrific whirlwind -of dust that sweeps along everything before it, and frequently carries -verandahs away bodily and deposits them on the roofs of adjoining houses, -besides removing tents as it passes. On arrival at a little hotel at 8 -o’clock I felt quite ready for breakfast, and wondered what kind of fare -we should get in these remote parts. Nearing the place, which rejoices -in the name of Bummer’s Creek, a fine vegetable garden surprised me. It -looked very refreshing to see the nice green garden after nothing but -sand and mulga-trees for 10 miles. On going into the hotel (a tin one) -evidences of comfort out of the usual order of “back-blocks” travelling -appeared. Many little dainties were on the table, and we were served with -an excellent breakfast, fresh eggs, fresh milk, and hot scones coming -on us as a complete surprise. There were two lady passengers besides -myself: Victorian girls who were on their way to an engagement at the -next hotel, where one of them was to be a “companion” at a weekly salary -of £2 10_s._ - -Twelve miles farther on we reached Murrin Murrin, where I stayed for a -day. Here I visited the Malcolm Proprietary, and was much interested in -the works and management of the mine, a fine one, giving good returns. -An interesting feature is the tailings hoist, worked by a compressed-air -plant. Returning to the Murrin Hotel for dinner, I was surprised at the -delicate way in which it was served, at a table with beautiful napery, -elegant silver, and glass ware. On becoming acquainted with the little -landlady, I was no longer surprised, for I found her a cultured lady, who -invited me to stay a few days as her guest, and I thoroughly enjoyed the -quiet change from the roughness to which I can never accustom myself. - -There is a great deal of copper about Murrin, and many copper mines are -being worked with good results, the Anaconda taking the first place. - -On arrival at Mount Morgans I found it quite a flourishing township. -Twelve months ago there were no houses, but now the place is increasing -wonderfully. The Westralian Mount Morgans Mine is less than a quarter of -a mile from the township, and is on a hill overlooking the surrounding -country. The large machinery on it made it look very imposing. From the -hill Mount Margaret is visible, a township now quite deserted, all the -houses having been bodily moved to Mount Morgans, and the hospital to -Laverton, another rising mining place, the former name of which, British -Flag, was changed to Laverton in compliment to Dr. Laver, who has been -mainly instrumental in bringing the place into prominence and attracting -an inflow of British capital. - -There are some very valuable mines here, as well as the Westralian Mount -Morgans, Guest’s Mine being the next in importance, and rapidly coming -to the fore as a gold-producer. A company in England has recently been -floated with a quarter of a million of money to deal with this mine. The -reefs are very large, and known to extend over 20 miles. The Westralian -Mount Morgans, which bids fair to be one of the biggest gold-producers -of Western Australia, is named after Mr. A. E. Morgans, the Member for -Coolgardie, the largest shareholder. There was an enormous quantity of -ore waiting to be crushed, and, although the gold is too fine to be seen -by the naked eye, it realises from ½ ounce to 3 ounces per ton. Thousands -of tons of this ore, sufficient to keep the battery going for five years, -are visible, waiting to be taken out. Occasionally some rich pockets of -gold are found, the rock simply glistening with the precious metal. The -output of this mine is very large, and nearly 200 workmen are employed. -Water for crushing purposes not being abundant, a pipe-line was laid -to an extensive lagoon 6 miles away, and now brings an ample supply. -The cyanide plant can treat 2500 tons of tailings monthly. Two thousand -cords of wood are neatly stacked by the mine ready for use, and more is -obtainable at a short distance. - -[Illustration: Westralian Mount Morgans Mine] - -The working-men’s club and library, a very nice building, built of -mud-bricks in their spare time by the men, who are very proud of it, -faces the mine. The term “mud-bricks” may need explanation: the bricks -are made from a kind of reddish soil found here, and when moulded into -shape look very well. - -The first hotel in Mount Morgans had just been opened when I was there. I -had great difficulty in getting accommodation, and was obliged to share -the room of the landlady’s daughter. The proprietor was doing a roaring -trade. There was a large dining-room, which was turned into a dormitory -at night. Visitors were constantly coming and going, so much being heard -on the lower fields of the recently wonderful finds. The post-office is -as yet a very primitive place, merely a canvas tent with a bough-shed -over it; but new buildings are going up in all directions as fast as -they can be built. Land brings a good price, plots now fetching as much -as £300 (which six months ago could have been got for the pegging out). -When a goldfield is proclaimed, the warden of the place gives permission -for people to take up ground for residential areas. Then comes a wild -rush to get in the first pegs. These pegs are to mark the ground which an -applicant desires to take up. When the warden’s permission was given, at -a court held at Mount Margaret, numbers of men hurried to Mount Morgans -to peg the best plots of land. Some went on bicycles, some on horses, and -those who arrived first of course got the best choice. One well-known -man had an old racehorse which he had “kept dark,” as they say, and he -outpaced them all and got the choicest plot on the township. He has since -erected the second hotel there, and sold it, I am told, for a very large -sum before it was completed. - -Very few women are yet on the field, and as I sat writing in the only -little parlour, all the male population seemed to walk past the open door -(the room being too small and hot to shut it) and to gaze at me as if I -were something rare and remarkable. - -With the exception of the few golden hills, the country was very flat, -and cyclists were constantly arriving. The country around Morgans is very -pretty in some parts, and there is plenty of nice grass growing. Every -coach coming up from Menzies was crowded with miners and prospectors, -who, having heard so much of this wonderful district, where a plentiful -supply of water is to be obtained, were getting out as fast as possible. -Not far from Mount Morgans, a mine, which is reported very rich, has -lately been discovered by Mr. Dunne, who found the Wealth of Nations Mine -at Coolgardie. Mr. Alick Forrest is largely interested, and lately paid -a visit of inspection to it. - -It is a very pleasant drive of six miles to the now deserted township -of Mount Margaret, and three miles farther on is the Mount itself, from -which a grand view of the country is obtained. The enormous Lake Carey -(salt) stretched far away in the distance. This is one of the innumerable -salt lakes of Western Australia, and with the glorious sun shining on it -it looks like a lake of gold. Sir John Forrest was the first white man to -set foot in this district, and stood on the Mount 30 years ago, when he -named it Margaret after his mother and his intended wife. - -As I returned to Mount Morgans in the cool of the evening, a very large -tribe of blacks (natives) appeared on the scene, but they were very -peaceful, and asked me for “bacca” and sixpence, which the king having -obtained, they all appeared satisfied. They were dressed in civilised -clothes, and looked quite fat. “White-man’s tucker,” as they call it, -and which they beg for as they go along, seemed to suit them. They -had just lit their camp fires. The aborigines’ means of fire lighting -is by wood friction, and as it takes a long time to get a spark they -usually carry fire-sticks, which keep alight a long time and save them -much trouble. They often bring into the townships or camps pieces of -gold which they have found in the bush, for they know they will receive -something, although they do not know the real value. They know, however, -the superior value of silver to copper, being aware that they can get -much more “bacca,” or food, for a silver piece than for a copper one, -and when they take their finds to any one, asking “how much this fella?” -meaning “what is it worth.” If it is a small find, and they are told the -value in pennyweights, they will say “Bael (no) pennyweight, that fella -shillingweight.” (The native, in his attempt to talk English, terms -nearly every person place, or thing “fella.”) They told me in their -broken way that this tribe had travelled from Kalgoorlie, and was going -to the Murchison, looking for a renegade blackfellow called “Kangaroo,” -who had transgressed their laws, and whom they meant to kill. Let us -hope, for “Kangaroo’s” sake, that they never found him. - -Mount Wilga is a very rich property which lies on the other side of Lake -Carey, is in a country that might almost be called undiscovered. But Mr. -G. W. Hall has discovered its richness, and sent up a manager and gang of -men, who are working away with great vigour. The lode is as big and rich -as any one could desire. Some of the ore from a good depth that has been -assayed has yielded 20 ounces to the ton; how much equally rich will be -got remains to be proved. - -Although the supply of water for mining purposes at Mount Morgans is not -adequate, there is plenty for domestic purposes, the wells sunk in many -parts of the township giving a good supply. In the rainy season, which, -however, seldom comes, the lagoon that supplies Westralian Mount Morgans -Mine with water is a huge lake, and teems with waterfowl. Kangaroos and -wallabies sport around its banks, and give great opportunities to the -sportsmen, who during other parts of the year have to let their guns lie -idle. - - - - -[Illustration: Mine at Laverton] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - - Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass - Widowers—More Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle - Nugget—Euro Mine—Hospitality in the Bush. - - -The coach to British Flag, or Laverton, turned out to be a large kind of -conveyance with three open seats and no cover; consequently, as the day -had been hot, I was glad when we drove into the township at 8 o’clock -in the evening, for I was fairly tired out. Every one in the place was -looking out for the mail, which only goes up three times a week. Several -gentlemen whom I had known in other parts of the colony were here, and -having heard that I was to arrive by this coach, were waiting to receive -me, and three pairs of stalwart arms were held out to help me down. I was -escorted into the hotel, and from the time I arrived until I left was the -recipient of so much attention from the numerous and kindly fellows as to -be almost bewildered. - -The very comfortable hotel was kept by three bachelors, one looking after -the hotel business and the other two after the store which they also -own. Wages up here are very high: cooks get £3 10s. per week, and two -young women, one of whom acts as housekeeper, while the other attends in -the bar, were receiving £5 per week! Another young woman was making a -small fortune by washing and mending the clothes of the gay bachelors, -who, having plenty of money, do not mind what they pay for work done -for them. The whole of the country seemed to be a vast auriferous area, -and thousands of miles of rich country higher up yet are absolutely -unprospected. - -Horses being very scarce, I was indebted to Mr. Campbell Shaw for the -use of his horse and buggy during my stay. Mr. Shaw drove me out to the -Augusta Mine, of which he is manager. This little mine is very rich, -and had just been bought from the three original prospectors for £2500 -in cash and 1300 shares. There was no battery there as yet, and so the -stone raised was taken to the Hawkes Nest Battery, 9 miles away, every -morning by a 60-camel train, the camels returning at night for their next -morning’s load. The country around is really pretty, and from the hill on -which the Augusta Mine stands you can see the houses at Mount Morgans, -20 miles off, through the clear air. Some very fine specimens have been -sent from this admirable little mine to the Glasgow Exhibition, and I was -fortunate to get some myself. The camps here were all very neat and tidy, -and yet there was not a woman on the mine, all the men being bachelors -or grass widowers. I intended to go down the shaft, but there had been -an accident the day before, and two young men had been injured—happily, -however, not very seriously—so I thought discretion the better part of -valour and did not go down. As no women were at the mine I volunteered to -do a little nursing by putting cold bandages on the injured men’s arms, -and making them nice cool lemon drinks, for which the poor fellows were -very grateful. - -Going back to Laverton, just as the sun was setting, I thought the -little township looked very flourishing. It is wonderful how quickly -these places spring up! A few months ago only a few tents marked the -spot which then was called British Flag. We stopped at Dr. Laver’s old -camp and surveyed the little township with wondering eyes, and two lucky -prospectors coming up gave me a pretty little nugget they had found that -day. These men had previously struck a patch in an abandoned shaft near -where they were camped a few miles out. They thought they would go down -and look all over it, and did so with such perseverance that they found -a leader. Following it up, they discovered it to be 18 inches wide, and -eventually came across a rich pocket from which they afterwards took -£4000 worth of gold. - -Driving into the township we went down to the post-office, not a Bush -one, but really a nice building. As it was the mail night all the folk -were there waiting for their letters. Most of the shops and houses are -built of galvanised iron, and are very hot during the day; but this -drawback has to be endured, for the place is in the Mulga country, where -the trees are very small and only fit for firewood, and the distances are -too great to bring timber from elsewhere. The Western Australian Bank had -a very nice place; it was one of the best buildings there. - -I was now over 600 miles from Perth, the capital, and had reached the -very last township in the Mount Margaret district. - -Erlistoun is another rising mining place, where there have recently -been some rich finds. It is 60 miles from Laverton. Several old -prospectors have been there for years, and have quite lost the customs of -civilisation, so much so, that one old man called Jack, on hearing that -one of the miners had brought his wife to the Erlistoun, and that she, -having a goat, had brought it up with her (at a terrible inconvenience, -as you may imagine), in order to have fresh milk in her tea, remarked: -“I shall pack my swag and go farther back, now that women and goats are -arriving here; this is no place for me.” - -I saw some marvellous specimens, more gold than quartz, from the -Erlistoun, and should not be surprised to hear any day of a tremendous -rush there. Consignments of plump wildfowl from beyond Mount Black and -the Erlistoun are frequently sent to Perth, and the country about is said -to be very fine. - -The Craig-i-more was the scene of my next mining visit. This mine -belongs to Sir Donald Currie, and, like most in this district, is worked -at the expense of the owners without the aid of the outside public -as shareholders. The machinery is very fine. I found the people most -hospitable; they made tea for me, and one of the managers presented me -with several valuable native weapons and curiosities, which I was proud -to add to the already fine collection in my pretty home at Claremont. - -Next day I set out to drive myself to the Euro Mine, about 12 miles -from Laverton, and refused all offers of escort, wishing to explore -the country myself. All went well for about seven miles, then I came -to two roads, did not know which to take, and of course took the wrong -one. After going on for about a mile the track grew very indistinct; I -found I was on the wrong one, and presently lost it altogether. However, -knowing by the sun that I was now going quite in the opposite direction, -I turned round, found the track, and determined to trust to luck and keep -to the left. When I had gone on for about a mile the track began to get -very indistinct, again being woven into others in a most confusing way. -The wind having risen made it also very dusty and disagreeable. I now -felt completely lost, but drove on hoping to strike a road once more. -Presently, a few yards to my right, there appeared a huge “willy willy.” -It interested and amused me at first, but presently it whirled nearer, -too near for my fancy and also to suit my horse, who needed no urging on. -Surely I heard a shriek. No! it was only the horrid “willy willy”; then -began a race, and “willy willy” was edging nearer. I turned my horse’s -head and let him gallop in the opposite direction; “willy willy” had -turned too _and was following us_. Half mad with fright I gave my horse -his head, who, by-the-by, took a small rut as if he were out with hounds, -the buggy and poor I taking it also. But where was “willy willy?” Right -away back, slowly dying (perhaps of laughter at giving us such a fright). -I slackened speed, and, looking around, was surprised to find that we -were nearly back at the Junction. We had struck the road again somehow, -the horse, perhaps, knowing his way better than I did. After all, “willy -willy” had done us a good turn. “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody -good,” I said to myself as I straightened my hat and drove sedately down -the road. - -[Illustration: MINERS’ CAMP, LAVERTON] - -Seeing smoke rising amongst the trees, I drove over to the place, hoping -to find a camp where I might get water for my horse. I found the camp -and one solitary man working by it, who had been in the neighbourhood -prospecting for months. He asked me to give my horse a rest, offering to -attend to him and also to make some tea for me, which hospitable offer I -gratefully accepted. While the “billy” boiled he told me much about the -hardships he had endured for many months. “But now,” said he, “luck has -turned; look here, ma’am.” At the same time he unearthed from the ground -an old jam tin, which proved to be full of little lumps of gold. For -months, he told me, he had been fossicking (that is, searching the top -ground), and looking for shows of gold, and one day had struck a patch. -Picking out one little piece he said, “That’s the first bit I found, and -you are the first white woman I have seen for months, so I’ll give it to -you for luck.” The piece was almost exactly in the form of an eagle, and -is now one of my gold treasures. He said that he had often been without -food, or the money to obtain it, but had subsisted on the kindness of -other prospectors, who had helped him from their often scanty store, and -of the storekeepers who had given him tick (credit). (I have since heard -that the man afterwards struck an immense find, and is now thoroughly -successful.) Bidding my hospitable entertainer “good-bye,” I again -started on my journey and soon found myself at the Euro, not having met -even a solitary kangaroo on the road. - -In the early days this mine was known as Quartz Hill, and the company -owning it was unlucky. Thousands of pounds were spent, but nothing much -was got, and the mine was finally abandoned; but some prospectors, who -often have a liking for fossicking on an abandoned spot, thought that -it had not had a fair trial, and two men, named Champion and Mason, -determined to give it another. Knowledge or chance led them to continue -a costéen, and they were not long coming on stringers (thin courses) of -rich quartz. Mr. G. W. Hall eventually came upon the scene in company -with Mr. A. W. Castle, and these well-known gentlemen were not long -in making a proposition to the prospectors, from whom they shortly -afterwards bought the mine for a considerable sum and renamed it the Euro. - -There is every appearance of a brilliant future for the Euro. There is -a large body of ore in sight. The reef is 10 feet wide, and some of it -gives assay equal to the rich Kalgoorlie claims. Many nice houses are -being built for offices, manager’s house, and stores. Farther on is the -Sons of England, another rich property acquired by Mr. Hall. - -At the Euro I was most hospitably entertained by the manager’s wife. -There were two other visitors at the mine that day, and we made quite a -merry party in the cool Bush-house, where we were invited to a very nice -lunch. - -Mount Weld was the object of my next day’s journeying. I did not lose -myself this time, but on the way came across some prospector’s camping, -and stopped to have a talk with them. They showed me a bottle full of -gold that they had recently got. One of them, the old man of the camp, -went very mysteriously into the camp and brought out something tied up -in a piece of an old bag. It turned out to be a nugget which must have -weighed 60 ounces. A small piece of gold was given me as a souvenir, and -I was bound to secrecy for a month about the big nugget; but, as the -month will be long past when this is published, I may now safely speak. - -At Mount Weld the miners seemed amazed to see a lady drive up alone, -and all work was suspended for the time by the hands on top. At the same -time an “Hallo” was given to those working below, with the message, “Come -up; a lady visitor.” The reply came, “You’re codding” (joking); but -when I went to the top of the shaft and called down, “It’s quite true,” -they came up the rope (dispensing with the bucket) with great alacrity. -Several claims here were yielding splendid returns, notably the new find, -7 miles from the Mount, where Bates and Whelan have recently struck a -rich patch. - -Another new place is called Bett’s Find, and 150 men were working there; -but, the heat having been terrible and water rather scarce, a good many -of them had left the place. The North Country, as this part is called, -has the advantage of rock not nearly so hard as on the fields lower down, -consequently the ores can be more easily treated. - -The time came when I had to bid farewell to Laverton and to its many -interesting mines. As time goes on the now modest little township will, -no doubt, develop into a fine city, for it is the centre of a very rich -district, although almost up in the Never Never country (where there is -no white population). Many mines of which I cannot speak are full of -golden promise, and many more will yet be discovered. The country around -is mountainous, and it is near mountains and hills that all the rich -reefs are found. - -It was on a lovely morning that I started for my return journey to Mount -Malcolm. As I had 70 miles to go, and as I was on the front seat of the -coach, I was thankful that the weather was cool. At first some difficulty -was experienced in getting the off-side leader to go. He was a young -horse, just broken in, and had never been in harness before; the way he -stood on his hind legs and curvetted around put terror into my heart, for -I am not strikingly brave where horses are concerned; with a great effort -I controlled myself and sat still, for I could see that the coach-driver -had full command, and, after about ten minutes of fear to me and fun -to the crowd who gathered round, we got away, the unmanageable animal -behaving admirably for the rest of the journey. - -There was only one other passenger (a gentleman) besides myself, and he -kindly got down and gathered Australian quondongs,[6] and some very rare -flowers new to me. Farther on the spinifex was very plentiful. I begged -some of that, not knowing its terrible prickly nature. It is a deceitful -plant that grows in pretty green grasslike clumps, with a flower—out at -this time—that looks almost like golden wheat, but is, oh, how wiry and -prickly! - -About 12 miles from Laverton was Hawke’s Nest, where the coach stopped -for a while at the store. This is a flourishing alluvial place, where -many nuggets are often found by dry-blowers and prospectors. A man came -into the store while we were waiting there with a nice piece, which the -storekeeper weighed; it was 14 ounces, and he had another of 7 ounces. A -little while ago a man found a piece weighing 27 ounces, and these good -finds are not of unfrequent occurrence. - -On arrival at Mount Morgans we changed coaches and found the new one -crowded. - -By the time I got to Murrin Murrin I was pretty thoroughly tired, and -decided to stay at the nice hotel and once more see silver and pretty -glass-ware on a table, for Mount Morgans and Laverton, although rich with -gold, are not exactly rich in comfort. - -I wanted to get to Malcolm the next day; there was no coach going, but -I was determined, and, my little landlady providing me with a horse and -spring-cart (the only conveyance obtainable), I made a start the next -morning like a veritable Bushwoman. I had no adventure beyond seeing a -long camel-train with three Afghan drivers, before getting near whom I -made a détour into the Bush, for horses are invariably afraid of camels. -I then resumed the road and got safely into Malcolm. - -A railway is soon to be begun to the Mount Margaret goldfields, and, -considering that this field is producing at the rate of 13,000 ounces -of gold per month, almost double the output of any other colonial field -except Kalgoorlie, it is to be hoped that the line will be finished with -as little delay as possible. - - - - -[Illustration: Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - - Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More Nuggets—Gold - Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the Fair Sex—Saturday - Life—Alas, poor Prospectors! - - -From Mount Malcolm to Leonora I drove 12 miles through very pleasant -country spread with wild flowers of all colours. About 2½ miles before -reaching Leonora lie, a little off the main road, the great mines called -the Gwalia Group, which seem likely to develop shortly into a second -Kalgoorlie. Leonora is a new place, and its great importance has not yet -been fully realised, but some managers told me that there are belts of -richness there similar to those in Kalgoorlie and Boulder City, so that, -when the railway is finished, no doubt thousands will flock to Leonora, -which by coach is now at a distance of 80 miles from Menzies. The Gwalia -Group occupies about a mile of ground, and is a leasehold of some 477 -acres. Over that expanse all the miners’ huts, camps, and tents are -scattered. I stopped at several and found a great many women and families -there, and some of their places were very comfortable inside, although -the outside was not much to look at. The men who work in this mine -are chiefly from Victoria, and they are bringing over their wives and -families every week. As the mine is evidently likely to be permanent, -and the men see a prospect of years of work before them, the people -there are very happy and have quite a little township of their own. The -principal mine of the group, the Sons of Gwalia, is on a hill, from which -place you look down over a mile of Bush dotted about with various camps. -The smoke rising from the chimneys, the poppet-heads of the other mines -lying beyond, with a blue haze of hills behind them, combine to make up a -good picture of life on the goldfields. - -There are 500 men working on this mine who turn out some thousands of -ounces of gold per month, independent of the tailings, which are almost -sure to give 1½ ounces to the ton. No doubt in a short time there will be -a tremendous boom here. - -The small town of Leonora very much resembles Mount Malcolm, except that -the main street is longer, and that there are a few more buildings. It -boasts of three hotels, one made of wood and two of mud bricks, but -withal not ungainly looking, and tolerably comfortable. Expenses are -heavy but wages are good, and there are so many lucky prospectors that -there is always plenty of money there. On Saturday nights a great deal -of business is done, especially on the pay Saturday, which at the Gwalia -mines arrives once a month; then most of the men come in and have some -amusement in the way of visiting the hotels and playing billiards; there -is nothing else for them to do. There is no good hall for amusements yet, -and if there were the men would have to provide their own play, for no -company of any calibre has yet ventured so far into the “back-blocks.” -A handsome semi-grand piano had just arrived at Thompson’s Hotel from -Perth, and the son of the landlady, who was an excellent musician, played -a selection from several new operas for my pleasure, as well as that of -the crowd who thronged the place. There is not much music to be had in -Leonora, but the inhabitants are quite able to appreciate it when it -comes. There is one luxury here, however, which is generally denied to -the people on the fields lower down towards Kalgoorlie—the luxury of -bathing at the public shower-baths. The men can have three baths daily -by paying the weekly fee of 2_s._ 6_d._ There are three splendid wells -in the town, with windmills, giving good supplies of fresh water. Horses -are very scarce; I had great difficulty in getting a horse and trap in -order to drive out and see the different mines; in fact, I had one day to -enlist the assistance of the local baker to take me out to one mine that -I wished very much to see, while another day the driver of the gingerbeer -carriage gallantly gave me a lift. - -Another day I had quite an adventure. I started in a cart, but the animal -called a horse, after jog-trotting for a mile or so, refused to go any -farther. The driver explained: “You see, ma’am, he’s an old ’un, and -knows at this time he ought to be going towards home, so he won’t go any -farther away from it.” All coaxings and persuasions were vain, so I had -to get out and walk. The day was intensely hot, and after walking some -distance I had to sit down on a log, feeling that I could go no farther. -At last in the distance a conveyance appeared coming from the place to -which I wanted to go, and proved to be that of the butcher. I stopped -the cart, and, with the sweetest smile I could call up, asked the young -man to take me to the mine. “But I am just going away from there.” “Oh, -never mind, turn back; I will pay you any money to take me there.” After -much hesitation he consented to do so, but would not accept payment. I am -glad to say that from the mine the manager sent me back in one of their -own buggies. The only people who kept horses for hire had let theirs -out to graze during the night and could not find them in the morning. -At last, in desperation I telegraphed to Mount Malcolm for a buggy and -horse, which were brought down to me, and I finished my inspection in -comfort. However, on my second visit to Leonora I found that the place -had advanced with great strides, and that now I had no difficulty in -obtaining a nice horse and buggy in the township to take me to the -different places I wished to visit. - -Going into one of the banks (there are two there), I collided at the door -with a rough-looking man carrying a canvas bag. This he emptied out upon -the counter. It proved to contain some splendid nuggets of gold and a -quantity of gold-dust. Seeing my eyes full of admiration, the man, rough -as he was, picked out a pretty little piece, and holding it towards me, -said, “Will you accept this, ma’am, from a rough miner who hasn’t spoken -to a lady for two years, and may I shake hands with you?” You may be sure -I did not refuse either of these offers, made in a most kindly spirit. - -We were now nearly 600 miles from Perth in a different direction to -Laverton. - -The Great Boston Reward Claim is only two miles from Leonora. Here -O’Brien and party made a vast profit out of the gold and nuggets they -obtained from their rich claim. The same party have another claim at a -place called Savannah, where they are also getting great results. - -Farther along the same road, which is the main road to Diorite and -Lawlers, is the Trump Mine, which has a small battery of its own, for -which the proprietors paid out of their first crushing of 10 ounces to -the ton. There are dozens of working-parties of men about this particular -part, which is exceptionally rich. Close to the Trump are the Leonora -Gold Blocks, which for richness have not been surpassed in the district. -This mine also has its own battery, bought and paid for out of its first -profits, so now the lucky owners have nothing to do but raise the stone -and extract the gold on the premises, independent of everybody. The -ample water supply makes work here comparatively easy, and I came to the -conclusion that this was an excellent place to look for gold. When one -looks back and thinks of the difficulties miners have had to contend with -at Hannan’s, I should say that a man would rather work in the Leonora -district, even for lower pay, than down below, where there is no fresh -water and few vegetables; and the fact is that wages are higher here. -There can be no doubt that a very great future lies before the Leonora, -or, I should say, Mount Malcolm goldfields, and probably in two years -from this time, instead of 1000 there will be 10,000 people on the field. -There are now scores of mines there, about which nobody hears anything. -Steady work is in progress everywhere in the district; there are no -unemployed men, the country, all the way from Menzies, is being rapidly -opened up, and so many improvements have been decided on by the various -mining companies, that thousands more men will shortly be required to do -the work. There is, therefore, nothing to prevent this rich field, which -has the advantage of being extensive, consistent, and well watered, from -developing shortly into a great community. Mr. Morgans, who should be -a good authority on mines, says that he sees no reason why the Gwalia -Mine should not shortly turn out 10,000 ounces of gold per month, and -that there are fully a dozen mines in the neighbourhood of Leonora with -striking lode formations which in the future will be as rich as any in -the district. - -On the road to the Diorite King, which is about 40 miles from Leonora, -there was nothing much to see except a good many swampers. A “swamper” -is a man tramping without his swag, which he entrusts to a teamster to -bring on his waggon. Arrived at the camping-place, which is recognisable -by the old fires, the swamper awaits the teamster’s coming, recovers -his swag and spends the night at the camp. While on foot the swamper -will generally leave the track, and prospect, and shows wonderful skill -in recovering the track again, after these deviations. The country, -however, was certainly prettier than that of the Coolgardie district. -I was somewhat surprised when the coach pulled up at a small-looking -hotel, called the Kurrajong, with a few houses about it, to find that I -was at Diorite King township. It is certainly the smallest place I ever -stayed at. However, I was not sorry to get to my journey’s end, for the -heat and red dust had made me long for a refreshing cup of tea, which I -got at the hotel. I was fortunate in getting a nice comfortable room, -which, however, I was told was reserved for the manager of a mine who -was expected soon, but I was allowed to have it until he came, and I am -thankful to say he did not arrive while I was there, so that I remained -for a few days in undisputed possession. - -At Diorite the township consists of one hotel, one store, one baker -and butcher’s shop combined, one blacksmith’s forge, a few mud houses, -and two galvanised-iron ones, the house of Mr. Williams, the manager -of the Diorite Mine, and a post-office. My readers may perhaps wonder -why I stayed so long. Certainly of all the uninviting desert-looking -places I ever saw, Diorite is the worst, but mines of wealth lie close -to it. There are only four women in Diorite, the landlady, the barmaid -of the hotel, a shopkeeper, and the wife of one of the men on the mine. -Women, being so few, are looked upon in these parts as goddesses, and -are treated with reverence, and I was made quite an object of adoration. -Of course there was no chance of getting a horse and vehicle here (how -I regretted leaving my bicycle at Menzies because I would not pay full -coach fare for it!) so one mine was explored by the medium of the -grocer’s cart. However, the day after, Mr. Williams kindly lent me his -horse and buggy, and safe transit to the other mines was then assured. - -[Illustration: Camels at Diorite King] - -The Diorite King Mine is about two miles from the township, and lies -between two hills. A great deal of gold has been got there. I found -myself most hospitably entertained, as the men were all at their “crib” -when I arrived, and being invited into their dining-room, a bough-shed -with two benches and long table, I took the mug of “billy” tea offered -me, but did not feel disposed to partake of the corned beef, cabbage, -and potatoes, although everything looked very nice and well cooked, and -also well served up by the cook of the day. This mine, and another called -the Middlesex, have both turned out good results, and while I was there -I saw some of what is called “surface stone,” freely splashed with gold -all over. On the way back to Diorite a long string of camels, over eighty -passed on their way to Lawlers with stores. What would the people in -these remote places do if it were not for these “ships of the desert”? - -On one of them, in a kind of wicker basket, was a poor little lamb, -looking wonderingly around with its head out of the cage. I thought, -perhaps, it might have been a pet of one of the Afghans. “No fear, -ma’am, it’s to be killed at sundown; they won’t eat any meat killed by -Europeans, drat them,” said the grocer, for like all Westralians he had a -hatred of the wily Afghan. - -The Calcutta Mine is not far from Diorite, and has a splendid reef. It -adjoins the Little Wonder, owned by Doyle and party, who a few years -ago had a find of gold so rich and phenomenal that thousands of pounds -worth of gold were taken in no time, and the men are working in daily -expectation of cutting a rich leader again. - -Mount Stirling is another mine held by a Perth syndicate. Very rich ore -was lately struck there, and the syndicate have now erected their own -crushing battery. Plenty of fuel and water is available in the vicinity. -Hundreds of tons of the valuable ore lie on top waiting to be crushed, -and thousands more are plainly to be seen below waiting to be dug out. -This is the richest stone that has ever been found near here, and is -causing much excitement on the lease adjoining Mount Stirling. A lode was -being worked by some miners at a depth of 90 feet, a pocket of some of -the stuff assaying the immense value of 100 ounces to the ton. A great -many more men have claims about the vicinity of Mount Stirling Mines, but -it is almost impossible to know what is being got, as they keep silence -over their findings. The manager of the store says that a large quantity -of alluvial gold is sent away from the district of which the warden knows -nothing. His firm, being buyers of gold, often purchase from the men as -much as 100 ounces a month, £390 worth, sometimes more. - -[Illustration: AUCTION SALE GOLDFIELDS (TIN HOTEL)] - -Last, but far from least, I went to the King of the Hills Mine. The -farther I got away from Diorite the nicer the country looked. When I -came to the King of the Hills the surroundings were really pretty. -The wonderful gold got there has been obtained by sinking to no great -depth. The main shaft was only 25 feet deep at the time when I saw it. -Many rich quartz veins have been found in the workings, the finds being -occasionally most sensational. A small parcel of 18 tons of stone was -treated for a yield of 280 ounces of gold; 14 tons yielded 276 ounces, -and since then a further sensation has been caused by 1 ton of quartz -which yielded 116 ounces of gold. On one of the shafts large sacks of ore -were stacked which fairly glistened with gold, and were expected to give -as high a result as that just quoted. The mine was owned at this time by -Read and party, but has since been sold to Mr. Raymond, of the Harquehala -Company, for £6000 cash. After pegging out their claim, Reid and party -obtained over 1600 ounces of gold, worth about the nice little sum of -£6200. That, with the sale of the mine, makes a fortune of £12,000 for -four partners. - -Saturday afternoon brought all, or nearly all, the miners from the -surrounding country into Diorite, where, as you can imagine, the -hotelkeeper was kept busy. The hotel proprietor, no doubt, has made a -fortune out of these Saturdays, the men having no other means of spending -their money; there is no bank where they can change their gold into -coin, but the storekeeper does that necessary kindness for them, or the -landlady notes a score on her little slate. All the time that I was -there one lucky claim-holder was falling about the place intoxicated. -Some of the scenes witnessed are by no means pleasant, but I suppose the -four women of the place had got quite used to them, for they did not -seem to take any notice of anything that went on. Many of the men on -the Saturday night become incapable of going back to their camps, and -there being no sleeping accommodation at Diorite beyond the one hotel, -they take shelter in any empty hut or under any cover they can find. The -men are all very kind to one another, only a few fights occur, and the -fighters soon shake hands and make friends again. There is no police -protection, and not even a tree lock-up, so every one does pretty well as -he likes at Diorite King; but when one thinks of the life these men lead, -shut off in a desert country from almost every trace of civilisation, -one feels that their faults should be looked on with a lenient eye. One -man seemed terribly drink-sodden, and I was told he had taken thousands -of pounds worth of gold as a partner in a certain claim, and his friends -had tried to get him away to reclaim him, but he would not leave the -place, and preferred to spend the money as he got it in the desert. -Occasionally some poor miner gets lost in the Bush and is never heard -of again. The blacks were very troublesome at one time about here, but -there are now very few. Mr. J. Leyland, one of the original owners of -the Little Wonder Mine, was killed by them about two years ago. He had -gone out to look for two horses that were lost, and having found them had -camped for the night at Doyle’s Well, about 20 miles off, and was boiling -his billy when he noticed a bush in motion close by, and before he could -arm himself two blacks sprang upon him and hit him on the head with a -waddy, and then speared the horses, leaving Mr. Leyland, as they thought, -dead. They then, having satisfied their thirst for blood, decamped. On -the poor man’s return to consciousness he dragged himself to the horses -and found one poor beast dead but the other not severely injured. He -managed to mount it, and horse and rider, covered with blood, managed to -make their way back to the mine. The horse dropped dead on their arrival -there, and poor Leyland only lived long enough to relate his terrible -night’s experience. Two men were lost in the Bush a little after this, -and parties went out searching for them. One poor fellow was found dead -under a tree, with his billy beside him, on the smoked part of which was -scratched: “Dying from thirst; Jim tried to go on, follow him.” A horse -lying dead close by mutely told a dreadful tale. The search-party, going -on for many miles, at last came across a hut near a well. The hut-keeper -told them he was awakened by a noise at daybreak, and on looking out saw -a dark object leaning over a rough hollowed-out tree trunk (used for -giving his horse a drink) and ravenously gulping down the water like a -thirsty wild animal. It was hardly daylight, so he could not distinguish -what it was, but knowing there were no wild animals about he ventured out -to see, and found it was the other poor lost man in the throes of death. -He took him into the hut and cared for him as well as he could, but it -was too late, so all the search-party could do was to dig a grave and -bury the second poor mate as they had done the first. - -About 62 miles from Leonora is the splendid goldfields’ pastoral station, -called Sturt’s Meadows, which belongs to Mr. Manuel, and consists of -570,000 acres of land. There is an abundance of water, and wells have -been sunk in many parts to supply the enormous herds of stock which Mr. -Manuel sends to the southern markets. The boundary of the station lies -20 miles away, and we drove 18 miles, during which we were always on -the property, before coming to the homestead. Here we were hospitably -received, and tasted “Brownie,” a currant loaf peculiar to this station, -of which I can personally speak in the highest terms. Mr. Manuel drives -four and sometimes six brumbies, and the way he gets over the ground is -simply amazing. - - - - -[Illustration: Off by the Coach to Lawlers] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - - Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount Sir - Samuel—While the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across the - Country—The “Back-blocks”—Camping out—Arrival at Nannine—Bed - once More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak Hill—The Gold - Patch—An Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome. - - -Another coach journey of 50 miles brought me to Lawlers. I was now out -of the Mount Malcolm and Mount Margaret districts, and in the East -Murchison. Mount Magnet, which is on the Cue railway line, is almost -in a direct line with Lawlers, and it is 130 miles from Lawlers to -Menzies. Lawlers is a nice little town; all the people so friendly and -pleased to see a strange lady on the field that many of them came into -the hotel to see me. The buildings are creditable, and a great amount of -business seemed to be doing. The gold output is steadily increasing, but -although much good ore is realised, there is great difficulty experienced -in getting it crushed, the batteries being too small. The people seem -unusually healthy. They say no one is ever sick at Lawlers, and the -soil is magnificent for growing fruit and vegetables, despite the small -rainfall. Mr. Homann has a very fine garden, watered by the surplus -water from the Great Western Mine, and from a well with a windmill. -Melons, tomatoes, and cabbages are fully equal to any I have seen. There -are also some vines that have borne beautiful grapes. If there were -only a plentiful fall of rain, which unfortunately seldom happens, -Lawlers could compete with any place in the matters of agriculture -and viticulture. Everything has to be carted to the place by team or -camel-train, consequently things of all kinds are very dear, the actual -cost of carriage from Mount Magnet being £12 per ton by team and £8 by -camel-train. The coach fare to that place from Lawlers, 192 miles, is -£5, and to Menzies, 130 miles, £4. Until the railway went to Menzies -from Kalgoorlie, most of the supplies came from Mount Magnet, but now -that the traffic of Lawlers is going to Menzies, since the train service -commenced, instead of Magnet, it increases daily. This, of course, will -naturally benefit both places, since Menzies will now also obtain some -of the splendid vegetables grown in Lawlers. Previously there were only -tinned vegetables to be had there. The people of Menzies have no desire -to see a railway line extended past that place, but as the Government has -now decided to build a railway speedily to Leonora, the Lawlers people -are hoping that at no distant time the line may be extended to their town -also; Lawlers will then be the pivot between the Murchison (Cue line) -and East Murchison goldfields, and with its excellent soil, its rich -mines, the Great Eastern for instance, will probably become one of the -principal towns in the goldfields. When the railway reaches Lawlers there -will be only 192 miles of this part without train service, through which -a railway could soon be made to Mount Magnet, completing a belt of rails -from Perth right round the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Mount Malcolm, Margaret, -East Murchison, Murchison, and Yalgoo goldfields. - -[Illustration: Lake Way Gold Mine] - -I next prepared for a long journey through the Western Australian Bush. -My destination was Lake Way and Wiluna. How I was to get there I did -not know, as there were no coaches even for the mails, which were only -taken once a week, and then by bicycle, over a distance of 120 miles, -a journey too long and too lonely for me to take alone. However, I was -cheered by the news that some miners were expected at Lawlers in a day -or two for whom horses were waiting. So, never doubting that they would -be gallant enough to offer me a seat, I rested quietly and waited for -their arrival. When they came they proved to have two friends with them, -who proposed to travel on what is called the “buckboard,” that is the -kind of ledge, about three feet long, for carrying luggage at the back -of the buggy, and as there was only room for two persons in front there -seemed to be a difficulty about conveying the whole party. However, the -pleasure of having a lady to drive with them for 120 miles was great -enough to make the party alter all their arrangements. One of them -borrowed a bicycle, and two of us in front of the buggy, a lad and other -friend on the buckboard, and four brumbies in hand, we gaily started off -one fine morning. We reached the first stopping-place, Mount Sir Samuel, -31 miles off, at 4 o’clock, and put up there, as I wished to see this -little place, where there are some very good mines—one, the Bellevue, -being a first-rate property. Another, called the Sulphide King, is very -promising. Mining here is not so hard as in some places, owing to the -softness of the ground and the plentiful supply of water. - -Lake Darlot is about 20 miles from here, and there is now a very -promising goldfields township in the district. A wild rush occurred a -few years ago. This was one of the places where great hardships were -endured by the diggers on account of the terrible scarcity of provisions; -the price of flour, when procurable, was at that time £5 for a small bag! - -Every one at Mount Sir Samuel was very kind and hospitable, and I felt -quite sorry to leave next morning, as we did at daybreak, for we wished -to make a long journey that day. We should have, we knew, to camp out. I -looked forward to this unusual experience with great eagerness. - -As I was watching the camp making I heard “Coo-e-e! Coo-e-e!” the -Australian bush cry, and presently a party of four miners rode up. -They had just sold their mines for £17,000, and were on their way to -Melbourne, _en route_ for New Zealand to see their parents. They told me -that, five years ago, they landed in the West with £200 between the four -of them, and are now leaving with the above-mentioned sum; but they hope -to come back to the Golden West after a six-months holiday. As you may -imagine, they were very jolly; they took off their kits (bags), which -contained provisions, we combined forces, and made a very pleasant meal -under the shade of some pretty kurrajong-trees. At night, attracted by -our fires, some natives appeared, but I felt quite safe with so many -protectors. They made up a bed of bushes for me under the buggy, and put -branches all around it. I felt as if I was in a Mia Mia (native hut), and -was as comfortable as possible. I heard the natives saying, “Mimi lubra,” -which means, “Woman in a tent.” They thought the men would not trouble to -make a place like it for themselves, and their conjectures were right; -they are not such a stupid race after all! - -Early in the morning we parted company and started off again. An -adventure shortly after stirred us up. A kangaroo, pursued by an emu, -came on the scene, but, being so fleet, both were soon out of sight. -After the excitement was over the boy on the buckboard repeated to us an -essay he said he wrote at school, on the kangaroo, which struck me as -being so funny that I give it you verbatim: - - “The kangaroo is a quadruped, but two of his feet is only - hands. He is closely related to the flea family, an’ jumps like - him, an’ has the same kind of resemblance. He is Australian by - birth an’ has a watch-pocket to carry his children in. There - is two or more kinds of kang’roos, but they are mostly male - an’ female, and live on grass, cabbage, and curren buns. The - kang’roo’s tale is his chief support; it is thick at one end, - and runs to the other end; it is good to jump with, and the - kang’roo when it’s cut off don’t know his way home, and has to - walk on his hands. The kang’roo is good for makin’ soup and - bootlaces and putting in zoos, and sometimes he is presented to - the roil Family to represent Australia.” - -We reached Wiluna, the township of Lake Way, next day, and found it a -very nice little place. There are three hotels and stores, and I was -surprised to find everything so nice away up in the wilds of the West. -There is plenty of fresh water in this district and several nice gardens. -Watermelons grow splendidly, and, with the thermometer at 114°, are very -welcome. Tomatoes also grow in profusion, and several people are growing -fruit and vegetables as a business, so that Lake Way is not a bad place -in which to find oneself. There are many good mines, turning out handsome -yields, and companies have recently been floated in London to take over -several properties here. The chief characteristics of the reefs are -evenness of quality, great wealth, and permanency. A very nice cake of -gold, weighing 145 ounces, from one of the claims was shown me; it came -from a claim called The Brothers. - -The people about Wiluna are, in spite of the heat of the climate, very -fond of dancing. It really is almost their only amusement. The evening -of our arrival a ball was held; it might truly be termed a Bachelors’ -Ball, for so few of the opposite sex are in the district; however, the -boys, as they are termed, arrived in great force, their dancing costumes -being riding breeches and coloured shirts, with turned down collars -and broad hats, real “back blocks” costume. As it was a very hot and -bright moonlight night, they danced on the open plain, and seemed to -enjoy themselves thoroughly. At about 9 o’clock a terrific shouting and -native yabber, yabber (talk) from a part of the Bush, where a tribe of -aborigines were encamped, gave token of rival amusement. The natives were -holding a Corroboree. They had camped at Wiluna, but were travelling to -some particular part of the country, where a favourite large grub, which -they used for food, was to be found in quantities. Natives always travel -from place to place in search of food, and they know the parts in which -the different kinds will be plentiful or in season. - -[Illustration: KANGAROO - -_Copyright—Gambier Bolton_] - -Wishing to see a Corroboree dance, I, with some of the onlookers of -the Bachelors’ Ball, migrated to the camp. The black fellows, who had -ornamented their heads and kangaroo-skin garment with what feathers and -tufts of grass they could obtain and coloured their faces and bodies -with wilgey, were leaping up in the air, with a spear in one hand and -a shield in the other, and contorting their bodies in most grotesque -fashion to the accompaniment of native music supplied by some of the men -of the tribe, who squatted on the ground chanting strange sounds and -beating sticks, while the lubras (wives), gins (girls), and pickaninnies -(children) sat or lay around, making a fearful noise and clapping their -hands vigorously. In the light of the camp fire it was a novel and weird -sight, but a little of it sufficed me. Before leaving, the head man of -the tribe threw the boomerang, which is a native weapon shaped like a -quarter-moon, and so constructed that it assumes a return motion at the -will of the native who throws it. It really was wonderful to hear it -whirr as it started through the air to a great distance and height, and -then come back to exactly the same place it started from. The boomerang -is not so unique as many people think; a weapon almost the same was used -by the Abyssinians hundreds of years ago, and still earlier by the people -of ancient Egypt. - -The journey from Lake Way to Nannine, over 120 miles of rather barren -country, was one to be remembered. No coach having yet been started on -this route, I was fortunate in being able to join a party of people, -including two ladies, who were going there in their own conveyances; -they had been in the “back-blocks” for four years, and thought it time -to take a holiday, especially as their husbands had made over £6000 -each from their mines, and had given them £500 each to go to Victoria, -see their friends, and have a good time, as I have no doubt they did. -We camped out for four nights, but the weather was fine, and it was -very pleasant to be under a canopy of stars, although towards morning -it got pretty cold. The two ladies took it in turn to do the cooking, -and would not hear of my doing anything, saying it would be a pity to -roughen my hands, which, by the way, were becoming almost as brown as -theirs. I quite enjoyed the bush-cooking. Johnny cake or “damper,” as it -is called here, cooked in the wood-ashes, is very nice, especially with -good butter, which we had in tins. Then there were plenty of wild turkeys -about, some of which were shot for us. My companions had brought some -tinned asparagus also, so, taking it altogether, our manna in the desert -was not to be despised. We met a few aborigines during our journey, but -they were generally very quiet and only asked for bacca and food. The -lubras were carrying their pickaninnies in a coota (bag) on their backs -(this is their usual custom except in the colder parts of the colony, -where they are supplied with blankets and also with rations); they were -also carrying sticks and some freshly killed birds. The women always have -to carry all the burdens, their lords and masters stalking on ahead with -their spears, no doubt on the look-out for game. - -[Illustration: A Well near Lake Way] - -One night, as we were sitting round the camp-fire, several of them again -appeared and demanded more bacca and food, which was given them, and they -were told to go away, but they would not do so until the men of our party -fired off several shots, which soon caused them to disappear, as they -are very much afraid of fire-arms. - -[Illustration: LUBRA AND PICKANINNY] - -Another night we camped in company with two teams. Each team had ten -horses and splendid large waggons, one of which the teamster gave up -to us three ladies, and we had quite a luxurious bed on sacks of chaff -that night. The teamsters were educated men; one had received a college -education, but had been eight years in the “back-blocks.” He said he -had not been in a lady’s company for years, and the poor fellow seemed -delighted to talk to me about his mother and sisters, who, he said, were -in dear old England, but he never wrote home, as he was the black sheep -of the family. I made him promise that when he got to Nannine he would -write to his mother, who, no doubt, in her heart was thinking, “Where is -my wandering boy to-night?” I do hope he kept his promise. On our arrival -at Nannine I bade a reluctant farewell to the party, who took the coach -to Cue, _en route_ for Fremantle, there to take the steamer to Victoria -to spend their well-earned holiday. - -We were now in the Murchison district. Nannine is a nice little place, -and everything seemed to be flourishing. The people form a very happy, -lively community. Several good buildings adorn the town, and I considered -myself fortunate in getting very comfortable quarters, for I was -really tired after my journey and late camping-out experiences. It was -delightful to rest on a nice soft bed and to have my breakfast brought me -in the morning. There are two good hotels at Nannine, which do a splendid -business. There are over 80 mines in the district—the first in which -gold was discovered in Western Australia. This first discovery dates -from 1854, when Robert Austin was sent by Governor Fitzgerald to explore -the country in the Gascoyne district above Peak Hill for agricultural -and pastoral land for settlement. Mr. Austin was accompanied by the -sons of some of the early settlers, and the little band of explorers -underwent many hardships. Most of their horses were poisoned by the -Bri-gastrolobium plant, and the party had to travel on foot for many -weary months. It was owing to this circumstance that the gold discovery -was made, for while reconnoitring for grass and water Mr. Austin came -across some likely looking stone, which he broke, and found it contained -gold. The only prospecting tools available (except a tomahawk, a small -hatchet always carried by explorers and prospectors), being a knife and -a pannikin, much progress could not be made. On Mr. Austin’s return to -Perth from the expedition he informed the Government, who did not think -it worth while to make further inquiries. Had they done so, the colony’s -prosperity might have dated 35 years earlier than it has done, as Mr. -Austin correctly described the auriferous nature of the belt of country -around Mount Magnet, Lake Austin, and Mount Kenneth, and also predicted -that the Murchison would become one of the greatest goldfields in the -world. The little party were the first white men who ever set foot in -that part of the colony, and I do not think that their efforts were -ever recognised. Mr. Austin is now a very old gentleman, and last year -was mining surveyor at the Mines Department, Hodgkinson Goldfields, -Queensland, from which place he wrote to the papers in Perth asking that -his claims as the first discoverer of gold should be recognised by the -present Parliament, and giving interesting particulars of his travels. -In 1856 gold was discovered at Kojânup, but little attention was paid to -gold in Western Australia in those days. It was not until 1884 that Mr. -Hardman, the Government geologist, discovered rich gold at Kimberley in -the far north of Western Australia, and this was followed in 1887 by the -find of gold at Mugakine while a man was digging a well. Golden Valley -and Southern Cross followed, and an era of prosperity for the colony -opened which I hope will never be closed. - -At the Aberfoyle Mine, to which I went from Nannine, I saw some beautiful -quartz thickly encrusted with gold. Twenty-two pounds of this stone -contained over 62 ounces of gold, valued at £230. This rich piece of -quartz has been secured for the Glasgow Exhibition. There are seven -shafts on this really amazing mine, from each of which the ore taken is -so marvellously rich that they are watched at night. Splendid machinery -is being put up, but sufficient masons cannot be got to do the work, -consequently the progress is slow. The Nannine Mine has shown wonderful -results during the year. In six weeks 1371 ounces were crushed from 285 -tons of stone. The chute (opening) from which this was taken improves -still richer as the mine opens up. The Champion is another group of -mines, from which excellent returns have been taken. At the Royalist, -another mine owned by the oldest mining resident of Nannine, as much as -300 ounces in two weeks have recently been obtained. There are many other -mines, but I cannot specify them all. Mount Yagahong is also a rich part -of the field, and Meekatharra, 25 miles away, is rapidly forging ahead -as a gold producer. Then 14 miles from Nannine is Burnakura, from which -place 71 lb. of specimens, containing 700 ounces of gold, some of the -pieces being nearly pure gold, were recently brought into Nannine and -lodged in the Western Australian Bank. Previous to this, £2000 worth of -gold was taken from the same claim, called Jewett’s United Lease, and -still more recently a Perth paper records that “A small parcel of stone, -weighing 4¾ cwt., from Jewett’s Union Mine at Burnakura, and crushed -at the Nannine battery, yielded 494½ ounces of gold. Nine hundred tons -of stone lie at grass—that is, on the top waiting to be crushed—on the -property.” This magnificent mine is owned by a local syndicate of seven -people. Gabanuntha is a rich mine near Nannine, and Star of the East -another. A leasehold with a peculiar name is “After Many Years,” which -gives every indication of turning out rich. This district, and Peak Hill, -owing to their remoteness, have not attracted speculators much, but must -eventually become prominent, for they are as rich as any part of Western -Australia, and after many years will, no doubt, fully verify Robert -Austin’s prediction. - -To drive another 120 miles through the Bush to Peak Hill did not seem to -me a very agreeable undertaking, but the advent one day of a spanking -four-in-hand at Nannine, bringing three gentlemen, one of whom I was -fortunate enough to know, and who gallantly offered to take me to Peak -Hill, altered the case completely. One of the party was an Englishman -inspecting Western Australian mines with a view to large investments. -Relays of horses had been sent on to the different stages along the road -and sleeping accommodation arranged for. I am afraid I put out these -arrangements considerably, but the gentlemen did not seem to mind giving -up the best to me, gallantly saying that my company compensated for -any discomfort. I felt at first that, as they were on mining business, -they did not want womenfolk around, but they soon found out that I took -as much interest in mining matters as themselves, and we became _bon -camarades_. Knowing that the _menu_ at these places would not be of the -best, the party had sent ahead supplies of everything necessary for table -comfort, also a man cook and waiter, so you may well understand that the -journey to Peak Hill was a most enjoyable one to me. - -As we approached the famous Peak Hill, which is a nice little mining -town, endowed with wonders of which you will presently hear, we passed -several dry-blowers working. These men fossick (look) over the old -workings, and by aid of a tin dish, in which they place any earth -they think contains gold, and a coarse riddle with which to sift it, -afterwards blowing away the fine dirt, they frequently find gold at the -bottom of the dish. The ground is remarkably rich in gold, and I find -it impossible to describe the magnitude of this golden country, which, -like other fields, seems only to have been tested in a few places, those -places being so rich that one wonders what the country will be when the -hundreds of miles of good ground that I have passed have been opened out -by miners. We were now far, far away from Perth, and the country looked -different from any I had seen before in Western Australia. Peak Hill lies -very high, 2000 feet above the sea-level. The ascent is steep and very -rocky, four miles of it going through the Robinson Ranges. An interesting -sight is found at the top, which has the appearance of a wide plain, -with shafts and dumps of the thrown-up earth all over it. The manager of -the principal mine here has a very comfortable residence, and the miners’ -camps give the place the usual prosperous appearance. There are over 600 -men on this field. The whole of the leases of Peak Hill have been taken -over by a syndicate, which has formed a company in London. The finds -have been marvellously rich. I went down one shaft, and saw some very -interesting specimens being dug out. The gold is in a kaolin formation, -and in some parts the kaolin is of all kinds of colours, and with the -gold shining through looks really lovely. In other parts of the mine the -kaolin is quite white, and the deposit easy to dig out. The results from -the Peak Hill reef have been as high as 2621 ounces 15 dwts. of gold -from 331 tons of this ore. Some of the mines have given as much as 21 -ounces of gold to the ton, which is a wonderful record. The Christmas -Gift is a rich mine, and many others have had such phenomenal crushings -that the Peak Hill district is unsurpassed in wealth of gold. When Sir -Gerard Smith, late Governor of Western Australia, visited Peak Hill, the -mine-owners had a solid gold plate and a cup, to use at dinner, cast for -him. - -[Illustration: DRY-BLOWING IN THE GOLDEN STEW] - -There are some really fine public buildings, and the hotels, especially -the Peak, are very comfortable. A nice Miners’ Institute, for meetings, -entertainments, &c., has recently been finished. Land for building sites -realises splendid prices, nearly £1000 having been paid for different -allotments. The private houses seem very comfortable habitations. Many of -the people have made fortunes, and everything seems prosperous about the -place. - -A very original character, called “Tom the Rager,” sold his interest in -one of the leases some time ago for £15,000. This man, an old Irishman, -made a memorable journey from Kimberley, in the North-West, across the -greater part of Western Australia, accompanied only by his faithful dog -“Paddy,” and subsequently got an interest in some of the richest claims -at Peak Hill, as the sale mentioned may testify. The Golden Patch, as -it is called, in which all the rich mines are, covers about a square -mile of ground of quite a different nature from that in other parts. -This mile of ground is formed by a mass of rich veins of quartz, and the -wealth contained there is unsurpassed in any part of Western Australia. -Were Peak Hill not such a tremendous distance away from the capital, -its growth would, no doubt, be as quick as that of Kalgoorlie, which it -so much resembles. Some of the wonderful crushings from a few of the -golden mines may interest you. The Peak Hill Reef, from 331 tons of stone -crushed 2621 ounces of gold; Daisy Bell, 82 tons, gave 1245 ounces; -Golden Chimes, 195 tons, gave 1402 ounces. The Horseshoe and the Golden -Patch are supposed to be the two richest spots in the colony. Some of the -specimens taken from the Patch are not only rich but vastly interesting -in other ways, some of the pieces being not gold held together by quartz, -but _vice versâ_; the small pieces of quartz, if tapped by a hard -substance, vibrate like a tuning-fork. The gold is very brilliant, and -positively sparkles in the light. - -I drove out to the Horseshoe Mines, a distance of about 20 miles. There -were over 50 men working there, and getting a great deal of gold; some of -them gave me some pretty pieces. I have now got enough nuggets to make -any other collectors envious. While there I met a young man who knew me -in Melbourne when he was quite a boy. I did not recognise him, as he had -grown up and had a moustache; but he came to me almost with tears in his -eyes, so pleased was he to see me so far away from home. For the moment -I could hardly realise that I was nearly 800 miles in the interior of -Western Australia, and felt inclined to cry with sympathy. He gave me a -very pretty little nugget, which cheered me considerably. Alluvial gold -often takes most singular forms; it is usually found on the surface, -or not far below, while reef-gold is got in a quartz lode, or vein, at -some depth underground. Some magnificent nuggets have been found in this -part; one weighing 132 ounces, worth over £500, was found in one of the -gullies which we passed when driving to this spot. The name of Horseshoe -is taken from the long range of hills shaped almost like a horseshoe, and -the gullies between them have made many of the miners wealthy. There are -two very rich reefs here, which have been proved for six or seven miles. -The specimens are very massive, gold predominating to a large extent in -the quartz, and the ironstone fairly glistening with richness. I was -now getting so much accustomed to looking at and handling gold that I -began to fear I should look coldly on the common articles of everyday -life. The miners, with the usual hospitality of their class, would boil -the billy and give me tea, and all the best that their “back-block” -larder afforded. Times are much changed now, since the early days of the -fields, and the miners can live very comfortably. I said good-bye to them -all with regret, wishing I could stay longer in this grand part of the -country, the scenic beauty of which is also great. I enjoyed the drive -back very much, and could not help thinking what store of wealth must lie -beneath the ground we were driving over. The great bulk of this part of -the country must contain untold gold. - -Revelstone is another rich mining camp a few miles from Peak Hill, where -a public crushing plant has been erected, at which the miners of the -neighbourhood can have their ore crushed as soon as they raise it. - -Farther on still is that wonderful Nor’-West country, to which I hope -some day to go. The biggest nuggets the colony has produced have been -found there. “The Bobby Dazzler,” which I was fortunate enough to see, -and tried to lift, before I left Perth, and which is to be shown at the -Glasgow Exhibition, came from Marble Bar, Nor’-West. It weighs over 400 -ounces of gold, and is worth over £1600. Another large nugget was found -in that district a few years ago, which weighed 334 ounces; so that -people wishing to pick up the precious metal in large lumps had better -try their luck in the far North. - -After spending some days at Peak Hill, I started, with my kind friends, -on my return to Nannine, and passed through acres and acres of the -finest everlasting flowers I have ever seen. The beautiful cream-coloured -starry flowers were as large as a florin; the country looked like a foamy -sea. Then, in other parts, bright-coloured flowers surrounded us, like -patterns in a huge kaleidoscope. - -We came to Abbot’s Find, some miles before reaching Nannine; the locality -is very rich; it was near here that last year a lucky prospector, named -Campbell, found some splendid specimens. The stone was creamy-white, -thickly permeated with gold, and was obtained from near the surface. -The place is full of outcrops (likely places for gold), leaders, and -reefs, it is wonderful that no rush has yet begun; but the rich spots -are so many, and the men comparatively so few, that they cannot prospect -them all. There are several important mines at Abbot’s, notably the New -Murchison King, White Horse, Abbot’s, and others, which have all given -good returns. - - - - -[Illustration: Mine at Cue] - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - - Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet - Flowers Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The - Mirage—Jolly Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The - Morning Star—Windsor Castle. - - -After a good rest at Nannine, which is 50 miles from Cue, we started off -for Tuckanarra, where I stayed for a day to see the much-talked-of spot -where so rich a find was lately made, my friends going on meanwhile to -Cue. The country around here is much broken and there are many large -caves. It was at the head of a huge gorge that the big find was made, -right on the surface, and many hundredweights of rich specimens were -quickly dug out. The lucky prospector communicated with Mr. Zeb. Lane, -in Perth, who went up, inspected the find, and took an option of the -mine for the British Westralia Syndicate, taking 4 cwt. of the rich -stuff home to England with him. However, the find proved to be a pocket, -and all the gold had centred there; consequently Mr. Lane surrendered -the option, as not being valuable enough for flotation. (He has since -floated in England the Anchor Consolidated Group, which includes several -good mines at Tuckanarra.) The original owners, Messrs. Taylor and Co., -have now retaken the work of opening up the mine with much success, and -have recently struck a rich reef, a parcel of 34 tons of stone from -which have yielded 138 ounces of gold. Boyd’s Claim is the best one -here, over 3000 ounces of gold having been taken out of it by crushing -and dollying, while the tailings, concentrates, and blanketings brought -the yield up to a considerably larger amount. At present Tuckanarra is a -quiet little place, but there is no knowing at what moment the colony may -be electrified by more finds. It was Warden Dowley’s blackboy who first -discovered gold in the Tuckanarra district. Whilst travelling with the -warden to Nannine he showed a piece of gold to his master and pointed -out the place where he found it, on which the warden marked the spot and -afterwards circulated the news. The usual rush ensued, and many claims -were pegged out. - -Only 25 miles of Bush travelling now lay between me and the town of Cue. -The coach driver favoured me with the box-seat, much to the disgust of -a male passenger, who wanted the seat and did not feel inclined to give -way to a lady. But the driver of the coach is always the boss (master) of -the box-seat, and this one, being fond of ladies’ society, gave me the -preference, not resembling in this point the driver in one of the other -districts, who said he “didn’t want no women sitting alongside of him.” - -At last I saw the lights of Cue. Electric lights in the streets, horses -and carts, the shrill whistle of the railway engine, boys calling out the -evening papers, and the stopping of the coach to deliver the mails at the -brilliantly lighted and splendid post-office, told me that I had emerged -from the “back-blocks” and was once more nearing the metropolis. - -[Illustration: Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine] - -I had heard a good deal about this centre of the Murchison, Cue, and, now -that I was here, found it an agreeable place to spend a few days in. The -living is in many ways immensely good, fresh milk is abundant, eggs are, -it is true, 5_s._ a dozen, but are obtainable. The meat is the finest I -have seen in the colony, and the vegetables are equally good. Passing -the door of the kitchen one morning I saw a pile of cauliflowers, the -outside leaves of which were 4 feet high, and the white flower on the -same scale. The cabbages were as hard as a rock and over a foot and a -half in diameter. Turnips and other kinds of vegetables were equally -surprising. The cook told me that they were grown at Mr. Rickett’s -garden, two miles out of town. To look at the barren country one would -think that nothing would grow, but it justifies the words of Sir -Frederick Weld, one of the first Governors, who, when people described -Western Australia as a sand heap, said, “If it be only sand, it is sand -that will grow anything if you give it water.” I was agreeably surprised -one morning to receive a lovely bunch of mignonette and a few violets, -the first of the season. I did enjoy the gift; no garden flowers ever -smelled sweeter or looked prettier to me, for it was a long time since -I had seen any. It was a perfect Sunday morning, and picnics and drives -were the order of the day; several parties were just setting out. The -people seem to be very happy, and, though so far away from their old -homes, have got quite used to goldfields life and get plenty of enjoyment -out of it. I drove out to some of the gardens and was surprised at the -green spots in the desert. Plenty of water is got by sinking wells and -the gardens are well irrigated. - -There are two newspapers published at Cue. At a dinner given to the Press -while I was there, one of the toasts was as follows: “Woman, second only -to the Press in disseminating news.” Are we ladies to take this as a -compliment, or otherwise? - -It is proposed to carry the railway from Cue on to Nannine. The Cue -people do not want this, as it would make Nannine the centre and spoil -Cue. A splendid court-house and warden’s offices are here, as well as -many other fine public buildings, shops, dwelling-houses, and hotels. - -There are some good mines, but a great many of them are under exemption -at present; that means, allowed to stop working for a specified time -named in their application; consequently many men are out of work and -the town is comparatively quiet, because these men have to go out -back-prospecting, to keep their wives and children. - -There are many families in Victoria and elsewhere who bless the day when -the goldfields of Western Australia were discovered, and a great many -miners in these districts have brought over their wives and families and -have made humble but comfortable homes for them. They all seem happy, and -I have talked with many of the women, who tell me that, though the life -is rather rough, yet they have money always regularly coming in, while, -on the other side, they had nothing to keep themselves with the failure -of the banks and general crash in Melbourne having ruined so many people. - -Coming back from a drive I passed the racecourse, with such a funny -little grand-stand, perched on top of a rocky hill. There was to be a -wild-flower show soon. The ladies were working hard to make it a success. -There seemed to be a great many of them here, and yet it is only a few -years since the arrival of a fair lady in Cue was an event of importance, -in which almost the entire population showed their interest by crowding -round the coach. Wages are still very good. A housekeeper will get £3 a -week; barmaids, £3 10_s._; housemaids and waitresses, £2 10_s._; and a -lady to whom I was speaking told me she was extremely tired, from having -had to do all the washing for the family herself, as the laundrywoman -wanted £1 per day for doing it, or 15_s._ for half a day! Chinese are -sometimes engaged as servants, and, as a rule, give satisfaction. No -Chinaman or coloured man is allowed to mine; in Western Australia they -are tolerated as gardeners or servants only. - -Mr. A. W. Walder has a large station called Coodardy, 20 miles from Cue. -It extends nearly 100 miles up towards Lake Way. There are always 1500 -head of cattle and 4000 or 5000 sheep on it to supply the necessities of -the Cue and Mount Magnet districts. This number is supplemented by drafts -from the far north, even as far as Gascoyne and Kimberley. The feed is -good, as may be supposed from the beautiful quality of the meat. It is -chiefly salt-bush, of which the stock are very fond, and which does not -grow very high, but is most nourishing. The water supply for them is -drawn from wells by blacks kept for that purpose. - -Day Dawn, where the largest mines are situated, is four miles from Cue. -One of these is called the Consolidated Murchison Gold Mines, Limited. -The machinery on these mines is magnificent, and has cost an enormous -sum of money. The cyanide process, all of which the assayer showed me, -was most interesting. The various articles used in assaying are very -delicate—scales that will weigh a breath and little wee china basins -the size of a doll’s cup. The splendid laboratory was full of different -chemicals; there were three immense rooms for the cyanide and assaying -processes. - -Coming back to Cue, I called at the Lady Forrest Mine, which is in quite -a picturesque spot, and I was not surprised at the beautifully arranged -collection of wild flowers and ferns that the manager had picked around -the mine and dried. The mine not working, he had plenty of time to pursue -his favourite pastime of botany. He also showed me a fine collection -of choice orchids; these are found at the Granites, a few miles out. -Parrots, with brilliant colouring, and cockatoos, are to be seen about -here, especially when you are near a soak (well). Occasionally an iguana -glides along, looking like a tiny land-alligator. Iguanas, though not -agreeable to the eye, are considered almost sacred in the Bush, because -they destroy snakes. - -The Island is a wonderful little place, a real treasure-house, 16 miles -from Cue. It is in the centre of the salt lake Austin (called after -Robert Austin, the explorer), from which it is separated by channels 1000 -yards wide. The lake, like all Western Australian lakes, is dry; but when -the sun is shining on it it looks like a sheet of glistening gold. - -The Mainland, dignified sometimes by the name of Salt Lake City, is -a few miles farther off. I do not know whether there are any Mormons -settled there or not. There are several good mines at the Mainland and -the Island. The reefs are highly auriferous. The Golconda is the largest -mine, giving very rich yields, and is now owned by an English syndicate. -The representatives of this mine are very careful not to let outside -people know too much about it; they keep the doors of the battery locked, -and no one is allowed to go in to inspect. The Island Eureka is a small -but rich mine owned by a syndicate on the Island. Mrs. Hurfit, who is -part-owner of the mine, lives close to it. This lady who is the first -white woman that came to these parts, showed me a fine collection of -specimens of all kinds of minerals found here. The gold quartz is very -beautiful. The jewellery Mrs. Hurfit has had made from it by Streeter, of -London, is unique, some of the polished quartz with veins of gold showing -through it being the handsomest I have ever seen. - -[Illustration: COLONEL NORTH’S EXPEDITION TO MOUNT MAGNET] - -Seeing a peculiar-looking place on a hill, I climbed up to see what it -was, and found a large hut composed of big flat stones. These stones were -lying around in great quantities. Some men were working near, but they -were Italians, and as they could not speak English and I could not speak -Italian, our conversation was nil. The view from the hill was charming; -the salt lakes shimmering in the sun, the flat country with the grass -and wild flowers, the low-lying purple hills in the background, a lovely -and most peculiar colouring in the sky, the rising stacks of the mines, -and the high metaphoric rocks in the distance, formed an uncommon and -pretty picture. Just as I was leaving, the sun came out with unusual -brilliancy, casting exquisite reflections on the glistening golden sand, -which seemed to crystallise into various forms. I almost felt as if I had -dropped into fairyland, but in a moment the sun hid behind a cloud and -the beautiful scene was gone. - -There are about 150 people at the Island and Mainland, and they all -appear to be in comfortable positions. On the day I left it was raining -heavily, and I had to wait an hour at the station for the train, which -was late in arriving. This brought to my mind the story of a gentleman -who had promised to attend at a certain place and make a speech, but -found himself unable to do so on account of the heavy rains having -destroyed a section of the railway line. Accordingly he wired, “Cannot -come; wash out on the line.” The reply came: “Come any way; borrow a -shirt.” - -At last the train made its appearance, and I took my seat and went to -Mount Magnet (not to be confused with Mount Margaret, which is in quite -a different part of the country), about 32 miles farther on. On arrival -there the railway station was so crowded that I could scarcely get out. -There were about 300 young men of all sorts and sizes, and with such -jolly smiling faces that I began to feel quite hilarious myself. They -turned out to be the successful footballers just returned from a match at -Cue. Several buggies and horses were waiting at the station, and I had no -difficulty in being conveyed to an hotel, which bore the significant name -of “The Oasis.” - -My first impression of Mount Magnet next morning was that there were a -great many donkeys—I mean, of course, of the four-footed variety. They -seemed to perambulate the town in dozens, and a team of about 20 going -out of town with a wagon was a novel sight. I can assure you that, while -I was writing these words, two inquisitive donkeys put in their heads at -the door and almost said “Good-morning,” recognising a friend, perhaps. -The outlook from this place was very dreary, as nearly always seems to -be the case where gold is found. Several nice specimens had just been -brought into the hotel by a lucky prospector, some of the pieces weighing -several ounces. The Mount is about four miles from Magnet township, and -was named Mount Magnet in 1854 by Mr. Austin, because the stone was so -mineralised that it attract the compass to an extent which rendered it -useless. Despite the barren-looking country, there are many varieties -of wild flowers growing in the neighbourhood, and the desert octopus or -tiger-plant is most remarkable. It bears a fairylike pink flower, and -seems almost to be a living thing. The leaves of the plant are remarkably -sensitive, and there are numerous little caplike flowers fringed with -tentacles and filled with a sweet substance; any insect that approaches -is seized, and the plant, which grows only a few inches in height, and is -also known as “Rainbow” or “Fly-trap,” absorbs the life of it. - -Five miles away is Boogardie, or Jones’ Well. A singular discovery was -recently made there. Portions of underground rock, on being broken, were -found to contain a living frog at a depth of 40 feet! Many of these have -been found. Query, how did they get there? - -There are many tidy houses in the little township; one Hessian camp, -containing three separate rooms, was most tastefully arranged with pretty -art-muslin and cretonne, a nice carpet on the ground, and cane furniture -beautifully draped. The bedroom was quite elegant, and the kitchen had -cocoanut matting on the ground; there were, as usual, no floors. A bright -Peerless Cooker stove and spotlessly white dresser and crockery finished -as natty a little home as a man and woman could wish for. The men out -here all work their own claims, and are very comfortably off. - -A few miles from Magnet is the Morning Star, a low-grade mine, but -still a paying one. Mr. Bryant, the manager, made me most welcome, and -explained to me very conclusively that, to make a mine pay, it is not -necessary to find gold in occasional very large pieces, and that a steady -quantity, though small, will, if the supply hold out, prove profitable. -The mine is worked almost entirely by men from Clunes, Victoria, where -Mr. Bryant formerly was; they have quite a camp of their own, and with -their reading-room and recreation-ground, where they play cricket and -football, they pass a very jolly life and seem quite contented. Total -abstinence is the rule of this mine. Before the train service was started -they had to cart all the machinery and stores 200 miles to the mine. -Farther on is Lennonville, another important mining centre, where rich -finds have lately been struck; and farther still, what is called the -10-Mile. There are many good mines in these localities. The Long Reef is -a fine mine, and with its magnificent new machinery looks imposing. The -plant is one of the finest in Western Australia, and there is enough good -ore to show profitable results for years to come. - -[Illustration: Donkey Team, Mount Magnet] - -Coming back from these mines I stopped at the Lennonville Hotel (to have -dinner), the landlady of which was the biggest woman I had ever seen, she -weighed over twenty-one stone. - -The scenery of this district is far more pleasing than the barrenness -of Magnet township. There are plenty of enormous emus scudding through -the scrub, and occasionally a few kangaroos enliven the scene. Some of -the big hills are completely riddled with enormous holes made by the -earthworm. It must have taken centuries to make these tunnels. I thought -they must be mining excavations, but one of the mining managers, who is -a mining expert and engineer, and who ought to know, told me they were -the work of earthworms. - -In another direction from Magnet is the New Chum Mine; farther on the Two -Chums, and others; all giving good results. - -There is a fine hospital, with a skilful surgeon, such skill being very -necessary where mining accidents ate liable to occur. The country is by -no means unhealthy, and there were only four patients in the hospital -on the day I visited it. The nurses seemed to be very kind women, and -the patients said it was like being nursed at home to be in the Magnet -Hospital. - -East Mount Magnet is about 50 miles away, and the coach journey to it is -tedious. There is a tidy little township, and some of the mines are very -rich. Mr. Zeb. Lane, before going to London last year, paid a visit to -this place, and took over the Windsor Castle Mine, a fine property, upon -which Mr. Lane estimates that there are 25,000 tons of good ore at sight -ready to pay handsome dividends. The Havelock Mine has given splendid -results, and a wonderful collection of specimens was recently lodged in -the Bank. Christmas Gift is another good mine, and not far off is another -rich find called Payneville. Several rich patches have been found and -hundreds of ounces of gold taken out of them. The district seems to have -a bright future before it. I was glad to return to Magnet, and to have -made my last coach journey for the present. One of the miners to whom I -was speaking looked so fearfully cadaverous that I asked him what was the -matter. He told me he had once been poisoned by lead in a mine, and had -never got the poison out of his system. I told him about the new cure by -electricity lately discovered. He seemed very thankful and said he would -see the mine doctor about it at once. Over 30 experiments with this cure -have lately been carried out successfully in England, and I hope it will -soon be generally known, and many cures made in the colonies. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - - Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The - Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis. - - -I reached the uninteresting township of Yalgoo at 2 o’clock, very -cold, tired and hungry. I stepped from the train with my portmanteau -and sallied out of the station to look for a vehicle to take me to the -hotel to which I had been recommended; but, alas! there was no sign of -a conveyance. A drearier-looking place I never saw. So disheartened did -I feel that I returned and got back into the railway carriage again, -intending to resume the journey and go on to Geraldton; but on looking -out of the now open window I saw so many nice and jolly-faced people -on the platform that I thought it might not be so bad a place after -all, so I took a second thought and got out of the carriage once more. -Approaching the gate I discovered a small boy in charge of a cart, on -which I placed my belongings, and told him to take them to the Emerald -Hotel, I walking behind. When we arrived there he put out my luggage -and left me. Not a soul was about the hotel or the street. I felt like -a sailor in a desert. I essayed to reconnoitre the place, and went in -and out of several rooms, with no result. I then tried the kitchen, -and found every one out there also, except the fire, which luckily was -in, so I took possession and sat down on a box to warm myself. Looking -out of the window, I saw two enormous emus stalking about and peering -into everything. I was afterwards told that they are the most curious -birds in existence, and their prying ways often cause them to be taken -captive. Presently the cook turned up; strange to say, a woman cook, as -most cooks in these parts are Japanese men. I asked her for some dinner; -she said she had none in the hotel, it was all at the railway station. -I may as well here explain that the proprietor of the hotel also caters -for the railway station, and his staff goes down there to attend to the -train passengers at the dinner-hour, everybody who requires dinner being -supposed to get it there. The whole male population of Yalgoo goes to see -the train come in; it is the event of the day. However, the cook made me -a nice cup of tea and some hot toast, and boiled some fresh eggs, after -partaking of which I felt myself again. Taking a look out of the front -door I saw the street just as deserted as ever, so, going into a bedroom, -I took a siesta until 4 o’clock, when sounds about the neighbourhood -told me that the townsfolk had returned from the railway station. I -accordingly went forth to make their acquaintance, and having done so I -am able to speak of them in the warmest terms. - -The township being such a barren-looking place I was surprised, on -driving around, to find very beautiful environs. The rains had brought -up millions of wild flowers of all colours, and the grass and trees -were exceptionally green. There are a great many sheep stations in this -district, and the mines are a considerable distance away, so I did -not go to them. The exception was the Emerald Mine, which is almost -in the township, and which has returned its owners a large fortune. -Fifteen thousand pounds worth of gold was dollied out of it before it -was sold to an English company, who then erected machinery and crushed -large quantities of rich ore with big results. It was on this spot that -Yalgoo’s first find was made by a native shepherd and his lubra, who -told some prospectors that they knew of a quartz-heap with bright stuff -on it. You may be sure the prospectors lost no time in finding the heap; -other finds followed, and the Yalgoo rush commenced. Aboriginal shepherds -are almost the only ones to be had in the West, and they are not very -reliable; yet if any animal is lost they can always find it; they are -wonderful trackers, and can follow up the track of anything alive; this -power has been cultivated in them by hunting for food from infancy. - -[Illustration: MARINE TERRACE, GERALDTON] - -The next day I left Yalgoo, longing ardently for a breath of sea air -once more. After a journey of eight hours in the train I arrived at -Geraldton, on the shores of Champion Bay; the town nearest the point at -which the history of the colony really commences. It is a shipping port -for a large agricultural and pastoral country, although as yet only 2000 -acres are under cultivation. I went for many beautiful drives, and one -night to a “social” given by the footballers, to which I was invited; -but as I did not dance, and contented myself with being a “wallflower,” -my participation in the enjoyment was not very keen; I consequently -returned early to my comfortable parlour at the Club Hotel. The new -public buildings here are quite an ornament to the town, and the people -may well be proud of them. There are also some other fine buildings and -many nice shops. Altogether Geraldton is a very jolly place in which to -spend a holiday. It can be reached from Perth by boat instead of the long -train journey of 297 miles, for the steamers going to the far north of -Western Australia and Singapore every fortnight always call; there are -also several coasting-boats. The extensive and rich goldfields of the -Murchison make Geraldton a very important place, and in course of time, -when the North is more known and visited, it will, no doubt, become one -of the most important towns in Western Australia. - -Some beautiful pearls were shown me by a trader from Sharks Bay in the -North-west district of Western Australia, and I wished I were a queen -who could order a necklace of them. As it was I had to content myself -with one for a ring. They were really exquisite gems, especially three -pink ones. The trader also had two black ones, which are rare and very -valuable, but I prefer those of delicate hue. - -Pearls to the value of £285,000 and pearl shell valued at £1,000,000 -have been raised from the North West Fisheries during the last ten -years. Nearly two hundred luggers, with over a thousand Malay, Japanese, -Chinese, and Manilla men, with whites for officers, are engaged in the -pearl industry. For diving, natives are chiefly employed, they being -such wonderful swimmers and divers. Occasionally dissensions take place -between these mixed people and their masters. Not long ago a terrible -tragedy occurred on a pearling vessel, the _Ethel_, and the captain, his -son, and the first mate were cruelly murdered by some of the Manilla -and Malay crew. The offenders escaped at the time, but were afterwards -captured (chiefly by the instrumentality of a poor Chinese cook, who was -loyal), and have since paid the penalty of their terrible crime. - -There is a pretty river near this place, called the Chapman, which falls -into Champion Bay. Garnets are found in the sand near the mouth of it, -and you may be sure that any one who visits the place spends some time -looking for the jewels. I was no exception to the rule, and found a few -small ones, but until they are polished they are not very beautiful. - -The orange groves are exquisite, and produce quantities of splendid -oranges. Mr. Jupp, one of the growers, had just sent into Geraldton some -immense loads, the whole of his golden crop. The rainfall having been -exceptional in the previous season, the country was bright with grass and -flowers. It seemed quite a pity the fine grass should not be feeding more -cattle. - -The view from the top of the lighthouse, where we stopped on the way back -from a river picnic, is very grand. The rocky Abrolhos, 35 miles away, -with the surrounding agricultural country, Champion Bay, and, farther -out still, the grand rolling Indian Ocean, make up a most impressive -scene. The lighthouse has a revolving white light, brilliantly flashing -every 40 seconds, and visible for 16 miles; two other lights, lower -down, showing red rays, visible from the north and south. Another day -I drove to Greenough Flats, a level and fertile plain, with many fine -crops, principally wheat, under cultivation. These flats were, no doubt, -in former days vast lagoons, which accounts for the unlimited supply of -good underground water. The grass is very nutritious, and the sheep and -cattle looked fat. At Minchooka, Mr. Redhead’s station, the stock was -looking exceptionally well, and a fine crop of wheat returned 26 bushels -per acre from 11 acres. Mr. T. McGuiness, of Greenough Back Flats, lately -had a peculiar experience while cleaning out his well, which is 96 feet -deep, and was dry. In the hope of obtaining a fresh supply, Mr. McGuiness -sank the well 13 feet deeper, and, when driving down his bar, struck -water, which spouted up so quickly and with such a rush that he had -hardly time to escape drowning; the water rose 30 feet in a very short -space of time. - -The Greenough river runs between the flats, and there is a nice little -township, with public offices, hotels, churches, and many comfortable -dwelling-houses; there are also several large farms in the district, -which is a magnificent grain-producing one. - -Newmarracarra Station, 20 miles from Geraldton, was formerly the property -of Mr. Maitland Browne, the resident magistrate, who at one time used -his land exclusively for horse-breeding. Thirty thousand acres of the -station are now utilised for sheep-farming at great profit, there are -24,000 sheep on the run in splendid condition, as well as many beautiful -high-bred cattle. Mr. McKenzie Grant, the owner, manages this station -himself, and has spent £55,000 on improvements. A grand water supply -comes from the Greenough river and also from twelve springs in different -parts of the land, which is very picturesque, with its hills and rich -flats, covered with waving grass, and, in some spots, is brilliant with -wild flowers. All kinds of native trees add beauty to the scene. - -Mr. Broadhurst, to whom I am indebted for all the information relating -to the Abrolhos, 35 miles from the mainland, gave me, as a great favour, -a copper coin from the _Batavia_, wrecked there in 1629, also a part of -a pair of scissors that have nearly lost their form, and other relics of -the past. A very interesting curiosity is a pair of large silver buttons -with links, in splendid preservation and very slightly tarnished. The -figures on these buttons represent Joseph and Potiphar’s wife. The -Abrolhos are the abode of countless millions of birds, principally the -noddy and sooty tern, which in the breeding season congregate there -in such numbers that the sky is quite obscured by their flight, and -everything is in almost total darkness. The group of islands have been -leased from the Government since 1883 by Messrs. Broadhurst and McNeill, -who command a very large trade in guano. The main stations in the group -are Rat, Pelsart, and Gun Islands, on each of which there are commodious -managers’ quarters and laboratory, besides kitchen and quarters for 48 -hands. No Australian should neglect to see the relics of the wrecks on -the Abrolhos that are in the Perth Museum. Mr. Broadhurst showed me a -book, printed in the Dutch language, that he accidentally came across -on a London bookstall in 1895, being then on a tour and engaged in -collecting information concerning early Australia. The book bore the date -of 1647, and has since been translated into English by Mr. Siebenhaur, a -Dutch gentleman in Perth, and proved to be, strange to say, a complete -narrative of the wreck of the _Batavia_ and the massacre of the people, -in 1629, at the Abrolhos Islands. The _Batavia_ was the commodore’s ship -of a fleet of eleven vessels sent from Amsterdam in 1628 to the East -Indies in search of treasure and to form a colony on one of the islands. -Storms arose, the commodore’s vessel was separated from the others, and -finally got down among the perilous banks of the Abrolhos, where the -vessel became a wreck. After much danger, the people, numbering several -hundreds—soldiers, sailors, women and children—were landed on two of the -islands, several trips having to be made between the ship and the shore -before this could be effected. Some water and bread was also got ashore, -as well as some cases of treasure, jewels, and gold-laced clothing -belonging to the Dutch Government that the commodore was anxious to save. -The ship shortly afterwards foundered and the hardships of the seafarers -commenced. It was found that there was very little fresh water on the -island, so the commodore, Pelsart, and several of the men set off in -the sloop, which had been saved, to the mainland to look for water for -their fellows. After much difficulty six of them succeeded in landing by -swimming, the shore being stony and rocky, and great breakers beating -violently against the rocks so that it was not safe to take the sloop -in too near. They saw smoke rising, and going towards it, saw four dark -figures creeping on their hands and knees, who, on the approach of the -sailors, leaped to their feet and fled away at full speed. Each carried -a stick, no doubt a boomerang. Around the fires were the bones of birds. -The savages were naked, and were the first ever seen on Australian -soil by white men. The sailors dug holes, trying to find fresh water, -but could find very little, and returned to the ship disconsolate. The -commodore then, knowing that by returning to the islands he could do -no good for his fellow sufferers, determined to return to Batavia for -assistance. On arrival there he obtained speedy help from the Government, -and provided with all necessaries and a good crew, at once set out again -for the Abrolhos to succour the shipwrecked people. On arrival there they -saw, close to where they had been wrecked, smoke from several fires, and -were much rejoiced, hoping to find all or most of the poor people alive. -Having cast anchor, the commodore, taking with him a cask of water, bread -and wine, went in his boat to the highest island, but on arrival there -found no one, at which he was much astonished. Jumping ashore, they saw a -little boat coming round the northern point with four men rowing; one of -them jumped ashore and welcomed the commodore, but begged him to return -to the ship, as there was a party of miscreants who intended to seize the -vessel. He then told the terrible story of the massacre. These miscreants -had murdered 120 people on the island, now called Pelsart Island, or -“Batavia’s Churchyard.” The commodore then sorrowfully returned to the -ship. The man who told the commodore all this was named Webbey Hayes, -and he with forty others had tried their best to save their comrades, -and were then on what they called Long Island. The commodore took some -boats and men and brought them away, arming them with muskets. With -these he proceeded to Batavia’s Churchyard and captured the mutineers. -They found them all dressed in the beautiful clothes trimmed with gold -lace belonging to the Government, and jewels were scattered about in -all directions. The mutineers were divested of their gay clothes, put -in irons and conveyed to Seal Island, to remain there till they should -be tried, which was afterwards done, and they were then executed for -their crimes. This is a very short and crude synopsis of the interesting -translation of the Dutch book of which I have spoken, but may serve to -give some idea of the Abrolhos. The many curios of this time that are -spoken of on page 51 are well worth seeing. Previous to this, in 1540, -Portuguese vessels had been driven on to the coasts of the Great South -Land, as it was called. Houtmann, a Dutchman who had served with the -Portuguese, had sighted the cluster of rocky islets and called them -Abrolhos, a contraction of the Portuguese “Abro vos olhos” (“Keep your -eyes open”). In far-back ages Chinese junks used to sail down to the Gulf -of Carpentaria, and the natives of that part of Australia are now said to -have a distinctly Mongolian cast of countenance. Marco Polo, at the close -of the thirteenth century, alluded to the Great South Land. Allusions -to this unknown land are also met with in writings dating as far back -as Alexander the Great in the fourth century; Strabo, Pliny and Ptolemy -also make mention of a mysterious territory, which was probably the -continent of Australia. Dampier is said to have been the first Englishman -to land on the coast of Western Australia, which was then, in the reign -of William III., called New Holland. His report was so unfavourable, that -Australia was left to itself again until 1770, when Captain Cook landed -at Botany Bay, New South Wales, and not until 60 years afterwards was -Western Australia found to be suitable for colonising. In 1829 the first -governor, Captain (afterwards Sir James) Stirling, with his family and -over 60 settlers, arrived at the Swan River and founded the settlement -which is now the city of Perth; two years previous to this, Captain -Fremantle had hoisted the British flag at the entrance of the river, and -the port of Fremantle is named after him. - -[Illustration: Four generations of the Western Australian Native] - -For some time past I have been collecting all the facts of interest -that I could concerning the natives of Australia, and have gathered a -really fine collection of the native weapons, boomerangs, nulla-nullas, -spears, waddies, womerahs, shields, &c. There are a good many aborigines -about Geraldton at present, but civilisation has made them lazy, and it -is not easy to get many of their weapons. Mine have chiefly been given -to me by friends who have gone to the trouble of collecting them for -years. The blacks are not a very pleasant race, still we ought to have -a kindly feeling for the poor creatures, whose chief capacities seem -to be hunting, fishing, and tracking. Their own laws, and the way they -keep them, are somewhat remarkable, especially those relating to the -affinities and the division of the people into families. - -There are four tribes or clans amongst the aborigines of Western -Australia, namely—Booranggnoo, Banagher, Kimera, Palgarie. A Booranggnoo -man may marry a Banagher woman, their children will be Kimera; a -Banagher man may marry a Booranggnoo woman, their children will be -Palgarie; a Kimera man may marry a Palgarie woman, their children will be -Booranggnoo; a Palgarie man may marry a Kimera woman, their children will -be Banagher. - -Children take the name of the mother, and intermarriage between the same -tribe is not allowed. Polygamy is permitted. A native may have several -wives and various families, but each family incurs the responsibilities -of the mother, and all such relations become involved in the guilt of any -crime; if the offender cannot be reached, any other relative may have -to suffer instead. In case of death by violence, the nearest relative -of the slayer is found and punished. Homicide in obedience to law is -therefore common among them. Their law is blood for blood, an eye for -an eye, a tooth for a tooth. Girls are betrothed when they are young, -and may be claimed at any time. A blackfellow must take his lubra (wife) -from the clan or tribe which alone is eligible to give a wife to him, -otherwise he becomes an outcast. The women are severely punished by the -men even for trifling offences. On the death of the husband the wives and -children pass to his brother; all property in land is held for hunting -and obtaining food. They are very fond of music and dancing, their songs -being chiefly extempore. The dances, or corroborees, are adapted to the -various circumstances of their lives—marriage, birth, death, war or -hunting. It is not usual for the women to take part in these dances, but -on rare occasions they do, and they carry a peeled stick tufted at one -end, as was the custom of the ancient Bacchantes. Songs are composed -by musical natives of the clan, and are soon learnt: every blackfellow -knows the songs of his clan, and if one is composed for any special -occasion it is soon learned. The food of these natives is very varied and -peculiar, one kind being the knomat, the gum of the swamp mimosa. There -are also six kinds of kangaroo eaten, two kinds of opossum, twenty-nine -sorts of fish, three kinds of turtle, emu, wild turkey, and many kinds -of waterfowl; frogs, seven kinds of lizards, four kinds of grubs, -twenty-nine roots, seven fungi, four gums, two kinds of manna, four -fruits, four nuts—two of the zamia, which are poisonous without proper -preparation—the seeds of many plants and the flowers of the banksia. -Cannibalism is not common, but has been known in the North and East. -The weapons employed are suited for the chase as well as war. These are -the codja or hatchet, the dabba or knife, the meera or throwing-stick, -the guicka or spear, the dowark or club, the womerah or digging-stick, -and the killy or boomerang, which they throw with great skill. Their -skill in hunting is remarkable, weirs are made for fish, stakes driven -to intercept the kangaroos at their watering-places, and the fish are -commonly speared by day and by torchlight. Their mias, or huts, vary -in construction from a light shell made of brushwood to a dome, large -enough to contain several persons, of logs covered with clay, and in size -according to season and locality. From the Murchison northward, and also -in the interior, the natives go naked; but southward, near the coast, -the dress is the “booka,” a sort of cloak made of kangaroo-skins, that -of the men being longer than that of the women, who use bags of skin, -coota or boka, and mats of vegetable fibre, for carrying their children -and domestic necessaries. They have many ornaments, and work opossum fur -with yarn to make girdles for carrying things and bands to twine round -the head to stick feathers in. They tattoo their bodies, and during the -operation of tattooing, other natives swing round small curved pieces of -wood, producing a whirring noise. They cover themselves with wilgey, a -sort of red ochre, charcoal, or white clay. They send messages by marked -sticks or bomar, the markings being quite intelligible to them, but to us -just looking like a number of jagged chips in the sticks. They are not -deficient in gratitude, but rather treacherous, although they will offer -themselves up for punishment, a thing which very few white men ever do. -They are very superstitious; the power of evil is a constant source of -terror to them. They have their karakats, boolga-men, or medicine-men, -able to inflict as well as cure diseases. They greatly fear an evil -spirit, Jingie, and an imaginary monster, Wangul, inhabiting the fresh -waters, and chiefly making victims of women. Each family has its kobong, -or cognisance, some animal or vegetable for which they have a reverence, -and which, therefore, is not used as food by the family who adopt it. -Some of the domestic and personal habits of the natives resemble those -inculcated by the laws of Moses. Their social intercourse is regulated -by very strict and ceremonious customs. There are forms of meeting, -also forms of parting. Mrs. Canfield, who had charge of the school at -Amesfield, Albany, especially reports their fondness for music. One girl, -sent to Sydney, played the harmonium in St. Philip’s Church for some -time. Several other native scholars have become good housewives; some are -now employed as school-teachers. Mrs. Canfield also notes the fondness of -the boys for mechanical arts. The native Mission home is near Guildford, -and another is in the Vasse district, but there are only about 40 -children in each place. The natives around Geraldton are half-civilised; -in fact, some speak quite good English. I suppose the heavy fine of -£50 for supplying drink to natives keeps them sober, as they find it -difficult to obtain strong drink, of which they are very fond. They have -been known to go to a large heap of bottles, and taking one, empty into -it the dregs of all the others, until they get sufficient to take a -drink, which they seem to relish exceedingly. - -[Illustration: Aborigines with Spears] - -Native wells or “namma-holes” have saved may a prospector from death by -thirst, and men well used to the Bush soon know how to find them. Some -of the wells are not more than two feet deep; others go down to ten or -twelve feet, and are usually found by rock-holes, or certain trees that -are near them. Some wells have a small drive at the bottom, so arranged -by the blacks that, when the water gets shallow, it cannot be seen from -the top of the hole. The old prospectors have learned from the blacks -how to find these oases in the desert, but “new chums” might pass dozens -while parched with thirst and never find one. - -After saying good-bye to the numerous friends I had made in Geraldton, I -set out for the south in the Perth mail-train, my destination, however, -being Dongarra, a little station 24 miles from Geraldton. On alighting -there I found that the hotel was some distance off, and I regretted that -I had got out of the train at all. However, a good-natured boy with -a cart solved my dilemma by saying: “Get up, missus, I’ll give you a -lift.” I accepted his invitation with much pleasure, and drove on through -wonderful grass lands. I thought, as it waved in the wind, that this must -be a cultivated crop, but found it to be common wild grass. A great deal -of the land about here is rented to the farmers at 10_s._ per acre, and -they have an average yield of 16 to 25 bushels of wheat and 30 bushels -of barley. Wheat can be grown at a large profit, as the cost of growing -it is not more than 4_d._ a bushel, and the timber being light in the -district, the expense of clearing the land is small. - -There are a number of farms about Dongarra, which is one of the prettiest -little country places I have seen in the colony. The township is situated -near the mouth of the Irwin river, and so there is no lack of water. -There is a small and safe harbour at Dongarra, formed by a reef at the -river’s mouth, which is the outlet to the valley of the river. There are -many early settlers living here. The following notice that was fastened -on a tree I thought very comical: “If any man or woman’s cows or horses -get into this paddock, his or her tail will be forthwith cut off, with no -respect to persons.” This is on a par with a letter written by a justice -of the peace in one of the places that shall be nameless:— - - “To J. murphy: thars 5 kows of yourse runnin in mi paddock and - if they aint tuk out be Frida nite ime goin to sit the lor agen - yer; ime on the binch and ile make it warm for yer.” - -The little hotel at Dongarra proved very comfortable, and next morning I -resumed my journey in the train, which took all day. In the afternoon we -stopped for awhile at a place called Watheroo. I gathered a pretty bunch -of wild flowers while waiting; some red ones especially took my fancy. -They smelt very sweet, something like honeysuckle. I found that they were -of the “verticordia” species, and that they grow in great profusion near -the Irwin river. In the evening, at seven o’clock, I left the train at -Gingin, for I wanted to see some of the famous orange and lemon groves -there. After quite a pastoral supper at the little inn where I put up I -retired early, feeling somewhat fatigued after my long journey in the -slow train. In the morning I set out to see some of the groves. The -forest scenery through which I passed looked particularly grand after -the monotony of the goldfields, and the beautiful orange groves further -enhanced the scene. I have seen oranges growing in various parts, but -the fruit hanging here in golden clusters was the finest I had seen -in Western Australia. In returning I stopped at a large garden, where -strawberries and other fruits were growing; some children were picking -the ripe fruit, which looked so tempting that I went to the door of the -little homestead and asked whether I could buy some. “Oh, certainly, and -cream, too,” replied the mother of the children, who had now come in with -their spoils from the garden. After I had finished my unexpected treat, -the mother put on her big white sun-bonnet (the usual head-covering in -country parts), and, with the children following, showed me all over -her selection and farm (which was a very fine one), and, with true -Australian hospitality, pressed on me many gifts of fruit and flowers. -There are about 350 people in the district of Gingin, mostly gardeners -and graziers; all kinds of cereals are grown, as well as the fruits I -have mentioned, and grapes of the finest quality are produced. Fat cattle -and horses are also raised for export; a splendid clear stream of water -runs near the township; sportsmen can have good shooting, for kangaroo; -wallaby and wild duck are abundant in the vicinity of this pretty little -place, which is 50 miles from Perth. - -[Illustration: FREMANTLE] - -In the morning I took the train for Perth and Fremantle, and on arrival -at the Perth railway station there, waiting for me, were my own horse -and Ralli car. Didn’t we spin along through the park? I thought of -the Mulga scrub and red dust “out back”; here the roads were red, but -“with a difference,” and the grass and the trees delightfully fresh and -green; surely the water never looked so sparkling. In and out through -the trees along the winding road we drove, past the little villas, with -their sweet gardens, up the hill, around the bend to the dearest spot on -earth, “Home, sweet home.” The house and verandah were almost hidden by -the glossy green leaves of the “Canadia” and passion vines; through the -lattice of the fern-houses peeped the delicate pink blossoms of the tall -ivy-geranium twined with the ever-flowering purple runner. The gate-porch -and garden fence were embroidered from end to end with blue and green. -Blue sea beyond, blue sky above. The gate was open, and thus my journey -of two thousand miles came to an end. I hope that my record of it may -help the reader to gain an idea of Western Australia. - -Our hands are outstretched to our brothers and sisters across the sea. -We want them to come and work _with_ us. Energy and courage are the best -cards to bring out to this big land. Should they wish to see the country -for themselves, as I have done, I trust that my efforts will help to make -their tour as easy as possible. - -Like all new countries, it has its rough uncultivated tracts, but I have -also tried to show that it has its “meadow sweet” as well. Hundreds of -thousands of acres of the soil are waiting to be tilled by strong willing -hands and to yield richly of its fruits, while underneath the earth is -“golden,” “golden,” overhead the glorious sun is shining, and the Austral -sky is blue. - -[Illustration: MAY VIVIENNE] - - - - -FOOTNOTES - - -[1] These are names given to each other by the Australian-born people of -the then separated colonies. - -[2] For most of these particulars of the early days of the goldfields I -am indebted to Mr. Calvert’s book, “The Coolgardie Goldfield,” 1894. - -[3] A stope is the part of the workings in a mine between the levels. - -[4] The levels are the drives, or excavations, at different depths in a -mine. - -[5] Since the above was written the mine has been sunk over 100 feet, and -Mr. Merton has now gold valued at over a hundred thousand pounds. - -[6] The nut of the tree that, when polished, makes pretty ornaments. - - Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO. - London & Edinburgh - -[Illustration: The Golden Butterfly] - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN -AUSTRALIA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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