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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e3327e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69184 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69184) diff --git a/old/69184-0.txt b/old/69184-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 654f498..0000000 --- a/old/69184-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8717 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Western Australia, by May -Vivienne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels in Western Australia - being a description of the various cities and towns, goldfields, - and agricultural districts of that state - -Author: May Vivienne - -Release Date: October 19, 2022 [eBook #69184] - -Language: English - -Produced by: MWS and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive/American - Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN -AUSTRALIA *** - - - - - - -TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - - - -TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - -Some Press Opinions of the First Edition - -_The Daily Chronicle_: “This book is a pleasant and interesting one; it -tells what somebody really saw and felt, not what somebody thought the -proper thing to say. The average man will find May Vivienne a delightful -and exhilarating guide to the still only half-understood pleasures and -resources of Western Australia.” - -_The Empire Review_: “It contains much first-hand information, clearly -given, concerning the cities, goldfields, and agricultural districts -of Western Australia. It is well illustrated, and will be found a most -useful work of reference.” - -_The Financial Times_: “Among the several books published dealing -with Western Australia, we know of few, if any, which are at once so -entertaining and so instructive as this volume. Any one who desires -to obtain in a most pleasant way a good general knowledge of this -distant colony could scarcely do better than purchase this book. As a -mere record of travel, apart from its special interest as dealing with -a gold-producing colony, it is well worth reading, and it contains a -profusion of interesting illustrations.” - -_The Pall Mall Gazette_: “Miss Vivienne knows her Westralia up and down; -she takes us to farms and timber estates; she has visited the goldfields -more than once, inspected all the chief mines, pegged a claim with her -own hand, and pluckily traversed the pioneer fringe of civilisation. -Her delightful journeys, which (with admirable illustrations) take us -over the whole country, reveal its astounding promise, which has already -largely become performance.” - - - - -[Illustration: _John Forrest_] - - - - - TRAVELS IN - WESTERN AUSTRALIA - - BEING A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS - CITIES AND TOWNS, GOLDFIELDS, AND - AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS - OF THAT STATE - - BY - MAY VIVIENNE - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS - - [Illustration] - - LONDON - WILLIAM HEINEMANN - 1902 - - _First Edition, May 1901_ - _Second Edition, January 1902_ - - _All rights reserved_ - - - - - “_He Masters whose Spirit Masters_” - - DEDICATED TO - THE RIGHT HON. SIR JOHN FORREST - P.C., K.C.M.G., G.C.M.G. - EX-PREMIER OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA - AND - MINISTER FOR FEDERAL DEFENCE - IN THE COMMONWEALTH - OF - UNITED AUSTRALIA - - “_Steer thou with good strong hand and wary eye, oh Helmsman_” - - - - -_AUTHOR’S NOTE_ - - -_Some readers may be disposed to question the accuracy of my statements -regarding the mines, and the actual wealth in gold of the State. I can -assure them that these statements are absolutely devoid of exaggeration, -and capable of being easily verified._ - -_This is true also of what is said respecting timber, fruits, and -agricultural produce._ - -_Finally, my hope in issuing this volume is that it may induce people not -only to visit but to settle in Western Australia, and so share in the -benefits offered by its prolific tracts._ - - _M. V._ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - - Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little - Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old Colonists—Travelling - Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land - Regulations—King George’s Sound Pp. 1-14 - - CHAPTER II - - Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount - Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely - Wildflowers Pp. 15-28 - - CHAPTER III - - Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation - Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free” Pp. 29-40 - - CHAPTER IV - - Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady - Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park - Races Pp. 41-46 - - CHAPTER V - - The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South - Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight Pp. 49-69 - - CHAPTER VI - - Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The - Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s - Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle Pp. 70-83 - - CHAPTER VII - - Rottnest—Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The - Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour Pp. 84-89 - - CHAPTER VIII - - Guildford—Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John - Forrest—Darling Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby - Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields Pp. 90-105 - - CHAPTER IX - - Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native - Murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old - Residents Pp. 106-117 - - CHAPTER X - - Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A - Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great Forest Pp. 118-123 - - CHAPTER XI - - Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All - aboard”—Karridale—Touring the Forest—King Karri—The Sand - Patch Pp. 124-136 - - CHAPTER XII - - Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape Leeuwin Pp. 137-147 - - CHAPTER XIII - - Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The - Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The - Show Pp. 148-158 - - CHAPTER XIV - - Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking - on Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato - Ground—Bayley’s Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great - Boulder Find—The Londonderry Pp. 159-175 - - CHAPTER XV - - Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting - a Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward Mine—Bonnie - Vale—Londonderry—Nearly Lost—King Solomon’s Mine—Hampton - Plains Pp. 176-195 - - CHAPTER XVI - - The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial - Treasures Pp. 196-203 - - CHAPTER XVII - - Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. - Kaufman—Early Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View Consols - and Great Boulder Pp. 204-223 - - CHAPTER XVIII - - The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder - Perseverance—The Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting - the Rock—British Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our - own Zeb. Lane—Kalgoorlie Again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the - Goldfields Pp. 224-236 - - CHAPTER XIX - - Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father - Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong Pp. 237-245 - - CHAPTER XX - - Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in the - Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and - Cake—Native Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat - of the Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh - Water Pp. 246-256 - - CHAPTER XXI - - A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold - Everywhere—A Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! - Murrin!—A Welcome Surprise—Western Australian Mount - Morgans—Golden Hills—Blackfellows on the Trail—The Lagoon Pp. 257-268 - - CHAPTER XXII - - Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass - Widowers—More Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle - Nugget—Euro Mine—Hospitality in the Bush Pp. 269-279 - - CHAPTER XXIII - - Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More Nuggets—Gold - Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the Fair Sex—Saturday - Life—Alas, poor Prospectors! Pp. 280-291 - - CHAPTER XXIV - - Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount Sir - Samuel—While the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across the - Country—The “Back-blocks”—Camping Out—Arrival at Nannine—Bed - Once More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak Hill—The Gold - Patch—An Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome Pp. 292-312 - - CHAPTER XXV - - Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet - Flowers Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The - Mirage—Jolly Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The - Morning Star—Windsor Castle Pp. 313-324 - - CHAPTER XXVI - - Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The - Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis Pp. 325-344 - - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - _Page_ - - _The Right Hon. Sir John Forrest_ _Frontispiece_ - - _Bird’s-eye View of Albany_ 1 - - _The_ “Omrah” _at Albany_ 1 - - _A Part of Kendinup Station_ 5 - - _Civilised Aborigines at Kendinup Station_ 11 - - _The Residency, Albany_ 13 - - _The Homestead, Kendinup Station_ 17 - - _Hauling Logs at the Mills_ 19 - - _Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills_ 23 - - _York_ 25 - - _Moirs’ Buildings_ 29 - - _Swan River, Perth_ 29 - - _Hay Street, Perth_ 31 - - _Perth Railway Station_ 33 - - _Melville Water_ 35 - - _Perth Water_ 37 - - _Mount Eliza and Swan River_ 43 - - _St. George’s Terrace_ 47 - - _City of Perth_ 53 - - _Aboriginal Camp_ 55 - - _Driving in Perth Park, at the Summit_ 59 - - _Gathering Wildflowers_ 63 - - _South Perth from the Banks of the Swan_ 67 - - _Fremantle Pier_ 70 - - _Freshwater Bay, Claremont_ 73 - - _North Fremantle_ 77 - - _High Street, Fremantle_ 81 - - _Government House, Perth_ 87 - - _Hon. H. J. Saunders_ 91 - - _Government Bore, near Mundaring_ 93 - - _Lunatic Asylum, Western Australia_ 99 - - _Paper Bark Tree_ 106 - - _Lady Forrest_ 109 - - _Bunbury_ 115 - - _Blackwood River_ 118 - - _Davies’ Karridale Timber Station_ 129 - - _Felling the Giant Karri_ 132 - - _The Sand Patch_ 133 - - _Cave_ 139 - - _Lighthouse_ 145 - - _Newcastle_ 149 - - _Avon River_ 157 - - _Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie_ 159 - - _Teams Returned to Southern Cross from Coolgardie_ 163 - - _Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross_ 166 - - _Bayley’s Reward Mine—Underlay Shaft_ 169 - - _Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897_ 176 - - _Early Days, Coolgardie_ 177 - - _Water Condenser—Filling the Water-bag_ 183 - - _Burbanks Grand Junction Mine_ 187 - - _Vale of Coolgardie Mine_ 188 - - _Jubilee at Red Hill Mine_ 191 - - _Golden Butterfly Nugget_ 196 - - _The Main Shaft. Butterfly Leases_ 197 - - _The Miners’ Holiday_ 201 - - _Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898_ 204 - - _Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie_ 207 - - _Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days_ 208 - - _Great Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols_ 213 - - _Overlooking the Great Boulder_ 215 - - _Hannan’s Star Mine_ 217 - - _The Ivanhoe Mine_ 219 - - _Mr. Zebina Lane_ 221 - - _Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine_ 226 - - _Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine_ 227 - - _Mr. Frank L. Gardner_ 231 - - _Hannan’s Public Crushing Company_ 233 - - _Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House_ 234 - - _Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna_ 237 - - _Deep Lead, Kanowna_ 240 - - _Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna_ 243 - - _Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow_ 246 - - _Part of Lady Shenton Battery_ 248 - - _Messrs. A. Forrest and J. Dunn on a Prospecting Tour_ 251 - - _Merton’s Find, Mertondale_ 257 - - _Mr. Alick Forrest Inspecting Dunn’s Shaft near Mount Morgans_ 261 - - _Westralian Mount Morgans Mine_ 265 - - _Mine at Laverton_ 269 - - _Miners’ Camp, Laverton_ 273 - - _Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora_ 280 - - _Camels at Diorite King_ 285 - - _Auction Sale, Goldfields (Tin Hotel)_ 287 - - _Off by Coach to Lawlers_ 292 - - _Lake Way Gold Mine_ 293 - - _Kangaroo_ 297 - - _A Well near Lake Way_ 300 - - _Lubra and Pickaninny_ 301 - - _Dry-blowing in the Golden West_ 307 - - _Mine at Cue_ 313 - - _Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine_ 315 - - _Colonel North’s Expedition to Mount Magnet_ 319 - - _Donkey Team, Mount Magnet_ 323 - - _Marine Terrace, Geraldton_ 327 - - _Four Generations of the Western Australian Native_ 334 - - _Aborigines with Spears_ 338 - - _Distant View of Fremantle_ 341 - - - - -[Illustration: Bird’s-Eye View of Albany] - - - - -CHAPTER I - - Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little - Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old Colonists—Travelling - Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land - Regulations—King George’s Sound. - - -[Illustration: The _Omrah_ at Albany] - -Having travelled all over Tasmania, Queensland, New South Wales, -Victoria, and South Australia (now United Australia), I one day made up -my mind to set out for the land of gold, Western Australia, that has -created such a _furore_ in these last few years. Accordingly I took -my passage from Sydney in the mail-steamer _Omrah_ and, after a very -charming voyage on board that splendid vessel, landed at Albany. It was a -lovely day, and the first things that pleasantly greeted the passengers -on stepping from the tug-boat to the wharf were various small boys with -huge bunches of the exquisite-smelling boronia, of which I had often -heard. Pretty little Albany looked charming. The day was really perfect -in its loveliness; the country round looked like an exquisite emerald -robe fringed with pearl and sapphire, the grand blue mountains in the -distance, the opal sea, with its white-winged yachts and various sailing -vessels lying at anchor in beautiful Princess Royal Harbour; the blue -sky above, with here and there a tiny white cloud like a dove carrying -a message to heaven; the matchless wild flowers springing around in -profusion, and the scent of the sweet boronia wafting on the breeze from -the gullies, where it grows in such luxuriance that one wonders no scent -farm has been started to distil the exquisite perfume, made the drive -taken by most of us before lunch most delightful. The peacefulness of -this charming place was broken only by the arrival of the great steamers, -with their crowds of passengers, who always went ashore for an hour or -so, some of them to take the train _en route_ to Perth, Fremantle, or the -goldfields; the others, after driving, lunching, or dining, as time will -allow, at the Freemasons’ Hotel (where I put up for a week), returning to -the steamer to continue their passage “home,” as all we Australians call -dear mother England. - -After an excellent lunch at the above-named hotel we set out to view the -surroundings of Albany. - -On that day everything really looked so beautiful that one might -believe Nature to have put on her most attractive garb for us, as if to -say, “Why go from here?” Driving round the Marine Drive to Middleton -Beach, we thought nothing could be lovelier than the view to which no -attraction seemed wanting. The calm and stillness were broken only by a -few other tourists, also feasting their eyes on this scene of beauty. -It is a five-mile drive to Middleton Beach. The beach forms a circle -of some three miles. Mount Clarence is in the background; in front is -the land-locked Princess Royal Harbour, with its narrow gateway for the -passage of ships; tiny bays surround it, and the picturesque islands -look like so many lions guarding the portal. This is a favourite place -for picnics; family parties are often here in numbers; the water is -so limpid and shallow that children can dabble about to their hearts’ -content; the sand is beautifully white and firm, and many little spades -and buckets are employed in making sandhouses. Afternoon tea-parties are -also quite an institution; it is considered quite “the thing” to bring a -party of friends to tea, and, if you do not wish to have it _al fresco_, -there is the pretty Esplanade Hotel, where everything, from afternoon -teas to wedding breakfasts, is served up in most excellent fashion. - -Another beauteous spot near Albany is Little Grove. The day I went the -steamer was full, it being a holiday. Launches were plying from jetty -to jetty, taking parties of picnickers to the pretty shady groves. A -regatta was also being held, and many people were watching it. It was -a pretty sight to see the contest of the boats as they sailed merrily -round the lovely bay. The weather was exquisite, but a strong breeze -was blowing; good seamanship was called into play in the sailing of the -yachts and robust muscular exertion in the rowing events. Albany may well -be called the sanatorium of the colony. The air is so invigorating that, -after being there only a few days, one feels almost a new being. Any one -suffering from brain fag or exhaustion cannot do better than go to Albany -for a holiday. One need only look at the faces of the children, see their -healthy looks, bright eyes and general activity, to know that they have -been born and brought up amongst healthy surroundings. One feature of the -children is their beautiful hair; many possess such luxuriant tresses -that one feels inclined to envy the lovely colour and beauty of them, and -to wish one also had been born in Albany. - -The town possesses some very good buildings, and, although not of very -large extent, is well laid out. It lies between the Mounts Clarence and -Melville, and the many dwellings on the hillsides give it a most quaint -and charming appearance. The principal places are the Town Hall, Post -Office, Customs House Office, and large sheds, also some fine stores. -There are still some very old structures standing, for Albany is an old -town, Princess Royal Harbour having been called after the daughter of -King George of England. The old-fashioned church of St. John has been -beautified by the hand of time and adorned with a mantle of ivy green. -Many stone cottages show the primitive way of building that prevailed in -1836. The gaol, built about that year, and in much the same style, still -exists, but the stocks then in use have almost disappeared. A very old -woman to whom I was speaking told me she remembered three women at a time -being put into them. Other evidences of days gone by are immense heaps of -bleached whalebones lying about in some parts. Albany was once a fishing -village frequented by traders of all countries, who did a large trade in -whale-oil, seals, &c., and exchanged for these things not only coin but -also potatoes and fruit. There were evidently stirring times in Albany in -those early days, and it was not an uncommon thing to see nine whales at -a time disporting themselves in the harbour. The huge mail-steamers must -have frightened them all away, for a whale is now a rare visitor. I spent -a pleasant hour at the house of Mr. J. McKenzie, which in the ’fifties -was the only hotel in Albany, and was known as The Thistle. It was also -the general concert-hall and theatre. There were no theatrical companies -in Western Australia in those days, and the small community used to get -up its own entertainments without aid from outside. Among the relics -cherished by Mr. McKenzie is the speaking-trumpet used by his father, a -master mariner, an imposing-looking instrument of brass, something like a -cornet. A magnificent double-pearl shell, with five or six lovely pearls -embedded in its sides, must be of great value. - -One of the most prominent early colonists was Captain John Hassell, -who, after calling two or three times in his brig the _Belinda_, being -wrecked, and undergoing many hardships, was still so much attracted by -the splendid locality that he resolved to settle here, took another -trip to Sydney, N.S.W., and returned with his family in 1838, bringing -with him 700 sheep, 12 horses, 20 head of cattle, poultry, 15 men, also -rations for twelve months. Captain Hassell went first to Strawberry -Hill and afterwards to Kendinup Station, where a fine mansion stands, -which now belongs to his son, John Hassell. It comprises 41,144 acres of -freehold and 122,000 acres of leasehold property; the area is 225 square -miles, and there are 320 miles of fencing on it. 6000 sheep are on the -run, and one magnificent flock of imported sheep cost Mr. Hassell £4000. -The samples of wool I saw from this station are really splendid. There -is a plentiful supply of water, one well being 80 feet deep, and nearly -always full. There are 30 civilised natives on the station, photographs -of five of whom are here given. - -[Illustration: A PART OF KENDINUP STATION] - -Albany has been connected with the capital by rail since 1886; previous -to that time the overland journey of more than 300 miles was made by -mail-coach or private conveyance over a very lonely road. The first -railway here was negotiated by the late Mr. Anthony Hordern, of Sydney, -N.S.W., and constructed under the land-grant system by a company of -which he was director-chairman. Mr. Hordern took up large grants of land -near Albany, having a high opinion of its agricultural possibilities. -He had also large schemes for the future of the south-west part of the -colony, and intended to build agricultural colleges to teach people how -to use the splendid soil to advantage. Unfortunately Mr. Hordern did not -live to complete the schemes; he died at sea, and a splendid monument -to his memory tops the incline of the principal street in Albany. The -late Premier, Sir John Forrest, said he remembered taking a journey from -Albany to Perth in 1880, when the coach broke down at a distance of some -40 or 50 miles from the town, and it was necessary to get a team and -travel by it another 40 or 50 miles; also many other difficulties were -encountered before arriving at Perth, and the journey took a week. My -own experiences when I visited this colony in 1882 were worse than the -Premier’s. I landed in Albany with a party of four others; we hired two -conveyances and four horses, paying £50 for them, provisioned for ten -days, and set off through the sand and bush. As it took us sixteen days -to perform the journey, as very little food could be obtained anywhere, -and as we arrived at our journey’s end with only two horses, the other -two having died on the way, the pleasures of that expedition can better -be imagined than described. - -The garden lands which lie in the valleys close to the town are being -largely cultivated, and selectors from England and elsewhere are -frequently arriving with the intention of taking up selections, and -undertaking dairy farming and market gardening. The new travelling dairy -instituted by the Government will be a great boon; it will have all the -latest appliances, and the plant will be erected in places where the -people have not facilities for making butter, &c., and persons who do not -understand the process can be instructed. The yield from this district -is one ton of hay, or fifteen bushels of wheat, per acre. This quantity -has been exceeded at Toobrunup Lake, where the yield was twenty bushels -per acre. Further proof of the fertility of the soil is given by the fact -that cabbages grown at Mr. Horton’s selection weighed from 20 to 30 lb., -and grew to maturity in thirteen weeks. Forty-two tons of cabbage came -off three acres of land last year, and brought £10 per ton. Potatoes from -the farm at Strawberry Hill, cultivated 60 years ago by Sir R. Spencer, -weigh over a pound each, so that at dinner you are not asked to take -potatoes but a part of one. These potatoes are really stupendous; one -that I had in my hand I measured, and found it to be nearly a foot long, -and wide in proportion! Seventy tons of these gigantic tubers, grown -without the aid of any fertilisers, were taken from nine acres. Turnips -flourish in the same way and grow to the weight of 3 and 5 lb. It is not -“some pumpkins,” as they say in America, but “some turnips,” as they say -in Australia. Onions also grow to an immense size, often weighing over 6 -lb. each. - -Albany and its surroundings are really as near perfection as it is -possible for any place to be. It has a heavenly summer climate, the -coolest in Australia. A day is considered hot if the mercury rises above -80°. During the week of the terrible heat-wave, when in other parts -of the colony the temperature was from 110° to 115°, the record heat -here was 95°. There are never by any chance hot winds. The grass is -always green and flowers are always blooming. With its miles of harbour -frontage, its lovely valleys nestling at the foot of its grand hills, its -beautiful river, and the natural drainage which keeps the little town -always clean and healthy, no wonder it should be regarded as the very -choicest of health resorts. The rainfall is abundant, and the district -seldom suffers from frost. The winters are very mild, snow has only been -known to fall two or three times, and then was so novel a sight as to -excite wonder in all the native-born Albanians. Last winter, however, Mr. -Knight, of Wattle Farm, carted into town a huge snowball that had been -rolled on his farm in the Porongurup ranges, which then were covered with -snow, and afforded the grandest spectacle ever seen here. At Mr. Knight’s -farm and orchard some magnificent fruit is grown, the apples being -sometimes over a pound in weight. I shall never forget the lovely sight -of that orchard. It is on an elevation of 1200 feet above the sea-level, -and commands a view of the rich and fertile valleys around. The soil is -of a rich deep chocolate colour, and the country is stated by experts to -be volcanic. - -Besides being endowed with beauty and richness of soil, Albany is likely -to become famous as a coal- and gold-producing district, for coal has -recently been found, and a company which will make further researches -formed. Timber also is abundant, and copper has recently been found at -the Phillips River, about 180 miles away. Thousands of people who have -gone direct to the goldfields have no idea of the beauty of this place. -They only think of Western Australia as a place in which, to look for -gold, and when that has been obtained in sufficiency, to be left behind -as quickly as possible. Tinned fruits, meat and vegetables have until -recently been the staple food of dwellers in the goldfields; but, as -population increases and fertile lands are taken up and cultivated, -a sufficiency of fresh fruits for all requirements will probably be -produced before long. - -[Illustration: CIVILISED ABORIGINALS AT KENDINUP STATION] - -The land regulations of Western Australia are so favourable to the -colonist that, if well known in England and upon the continent of Europe, -they would probably attract many families of the vine-growing, artisan, -and small capitalist classes. Any person over the age of eighteen, who -is the head of a family, can take up an area of 160 acres of land for a -free or homestead farm. A deposit of £1 is required as a guarantee of -_bona fides_. The applicant must live on the land for six months of each -year, and within two years must spend £30 in clearing or cropping, or put -down two acres of garden, orchard or vineyard; within five years, one -quarter of the selection must be fenced and one-eighth cropped; within -seven years the whole area must be fenced, and one quarter cultivated. -The selector then becomes entitled to his certificate of title, after -having paid for it and the cost of survey. Direct purchase can be made, -if desired, of from 100 to 5000 acres. The land is valued at 10_s._ per -acre, of which 10 per cent. is payable on application and the balance by -four quarterly instalments. Applicants must fence in the course of three -years and spend 5_s._ per acre within seven years, and then can acquire -their certificates of title. Grazing farms can be taken up at a rental of -2½_d._ per acre. Pastoral leases, or grass rights for grazing purposes, -can be got for the nominal rental of 2_s._ 6_d._ per 1000 acres per -annum and upwards. Garden lots, from 5 up to 50 acres, can be obtained. -In this case the land is valued at 20_s._ per acre, and the plot must -be fenced within three years, one-tenth to be put under cultivation as -a _bona fide_ garden. The terms are 10 per cent. deposit on application -and the balance in six half-yearly instalments. In addition to all this, -the Government have done yet more to induce land settlements by offering -assistance from the Agricultural Bank, created by the late Premier, Sir -John Forrest, for the benefit of all who desire to make a home in Western -Australia. This bank will lend money on freeholds at conditional purchase -(already fenced) to the amount of £800. An application fee of 1 per cent. -on the loan is demanded, and this amount covers cost of inspection -and mortgage. The amount lent is repayable by the borrower in thirty -years; for the first five years the interest is payable half-yearly. At -the sixth year a sinking fund of 4 per cent. commences, and continues -until the end of the thirty years, when the debt is wiped out. There are -Government land agents in nearly every agricultural town of the colony, -and a would-be selector arriving and communicating with the Government -agent receives all the assistance he wishes in making his selection. The -present population of Albany is about 3500. - -[Illustration: The Residency, Albany] - -A fine Quarantine Station has lately been built at a cost of £10,000. The -forts are very interesting. No doubt, in the future Albany will become -an important Naval station. An Imperial Officer of the Royal Artillery -is in command, there is a small garrison, and some murderous-looking -guns are in readiness to give a warm reception to any enemy who may -appear. Before leaving Albany I accepted an invitation to take a trip -out into the Sound. This was named by Vancouver, in 1791, King George’s -Sound, after the then reigning sovereign of England. It is sheltered by -magnificent granite rocks or headlands, and the anchorage is perfect, -for the islands of Breaksea, Michaelmas, and Haul Off Rock—an immense -block of stone, almost like a mediæval fortress—break the ocean swell. -The beauties of King George’s Sound have been well known since the first -navigators sought refuge in its quiet waters, and its maritime value can -never cease. - -I said “Good-bye” with much regret to the many friends made during my -short stay in this little town, where even the Railway Reserve is a -perfect garden of Arum lilies. These peerless flowers seem to grow wild, -and their stately heads are to be seen everywhere. The scent of the -boronia is wafted on the breeze from afar; you hear the merry laughter -of boating-parties and of children who come along with their hands full -of gorgeous wild flowers. One of the townsfolk brought me a lovely -collection of orchids, of which there are many varieties to be found -hereabout; another friend brought me a collection of Western Australia -curiosities, shells, corals, &c.; indeed I was overwhelmed with kindness -by the warm-hearted people, and could not but be sorry to leave a place -where I had been received with so much kindness. - - - - -[Illustration: A Chopping Contest.] - - - - -CHAPTER II - - Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount - Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely Wildflowers. - - -Leaving Albany under more auspicious circumstances this time than when I -had left it by road, I took my seat in the train, my destination being -Denmark Mills, where I went to see a great timber station and Jarrah -Forest. On arrival at Torbay Junction, 9 miles from Albany, I left the -mail train and took the timber train, as the company, who own the Denmark -Timber Mills, have a private line running to that place; once seated -I was soon carried into the timber country. We passed through country -covered with boronia and other sweet flowers, and with Sheoak, Karri, -and Jarrah trees. We crossed the Hay river and came to Denmark Mill and -township. We were now in the thick of the Karri country, covered with -immense trees. The site of the township, covering 150 acres, has, of -course, been cleared, and there are many comfortable wooden and slab -cottages with nice gardens attached, giving a plentiful supply of fruit -and vegetables; as well as a good store, where everything appertaining -to housekeeping can be obtained. No liquor is allowed to be sold at the -mill on account of the dangerous nature of the occupation, consequently -this is a model township. There are several coffee-houses, and, in spite -of their enforced sobriety, the men seem to be very jolly and happy. An -enormous stack of timber was ready to be shipped to Colombo, and the men -were at work cutting more, as the enormous demand for Western Australian -wood keeps the workmen busy night and day, working in relays. The line -train wound round the hills in picturesque fashion, until we came to -a valley which looked more picturesque still, but rather dangerous to -cross in a timber-train. Here the flying fox or aerial tram is used to -bridge the steep part and to carry small timber. I was glad I did not -venture down into the valley, for I was afterwards told that it was not -an infrequent occurrence for the timber-trucks, and occasionally the -engine also, to leave the line, and as the trucks are of the roughest -description, consisting merely of four wheels and a platform, and are -loaded with immense logs, the passenger can only travel on the engine, -or on the “dummy,” which is a special truck placed immediately behind -the engine to keep it from being damaged in case some huge log, weighing -perhaps 20 tons, should slide forward in the course of a descent. It is -difficult to give an idea of the size of the gigantic Karri-trees here. -One which I saw was quite hollow, and a bullock team drove right through -it with perfect ease. In returning to the town I saw another large -quantity of battens or pickets waiting to be shipped for London to fence -two large cemeteries. Enormous fires are always burning in the town to -consume the great heaps of waste from the mills. A pile, about 120 feet -high, was waiting to be burned, and it did seem a pity that good wood -should be reduced to ashes merely to get it out of the way. A scheme for -shipping the refuse of the mills to America for conversion into paper has -lately been mooted. - -[Illustration: THE HOMESTEAD, KENDINUP STATION] - -[Illustration: Hauling Logs at the Mills] - -The Karri-trees, grow to a height of 300 feet, with a circumference of -from 20 to 30 feet. From one Karri-tree alone 100 tons of timber have -been cut. Karri is also called _Eucalyptus collossea_ or _diversicolor_, -the latter name denoting the difference between its leaves and those -of other eucalypti. The timber is impervious to damp. I was shown a -block cut from a log that had been buried forty-six years in moist -earth, and it was perfectly sound. For mining, harbour works, railways -and street-paving the wood is unequalled, and is now greatly used in -different parts of London, notably in paving Charing Cross, where traffic -goes on at the rate of 402 omnibuses every hour; and in Paris the Rue -Lafayette and Rue Château d’Eau are also paved with our famous Australian -woods. This particular wood is preferred for street-paving because it is -safer for horse traffic than other kinds; observations taken by Colonel -Hayward, late City Engineer of London, have shown that horses might be -expected to travel over 446 miles of Karri road without accident. On -Westminster Bridge, London (south side), the Jarrah paving has lasted -for seven years. This wood is also being used all over the world for -jetty piles; some enormous ones, 90 feet in length, were waiting at the -train-shed to go to Albany, where thirty vessels are under charter to -take the timber away to South Africa, South America, India, &c. There -is another very large karri district which I mean to visit; I must not -therefore exhaust all I have to say about karri timber here, but pass -on, leaving behind Denmark Mill with its 20,000 acres of forest, where -the manager told me over two million loads of timber were waiting to be -cut down. Mr. Millar also owns very large jarrah forests, the Wagerup of -35,000 acres, and the Mornington, 55,000 acres, and employs upon them a -very large staff of workmen. - -Returning next day to Torbay Junction, I caught the mail-train and -continued my travels, passing thousands of acres of land waiting for -selectors. Stopping at Mount Barker, 28 miles from Torbay, I visited the -homestead of Mr. Somnes, the land around which was first cultivated over -40 years ago by Mr. Somnes, senior, now 90 years of age, and many of the -fruit-trees, though planted so long ago, are still bearing good crops of -fruit. Over 55 acres of fruit-trees of different kinds, bearing lovely -fruit, testify to the excellence of the soil. Two thousand apple-trees -seem to be specially prolific. In another part of the Mount Barker -district, Mr. Miller’s estate, comprising more than 5000 acres, has a -fine orchard of over 6000 fruit-trees of all descriptions. Two other -orchards, not quite so large but with much exquisite fruit, are not -far off, and the old homestead of St. Werbergs, where the late Colonel -Warburton resided, is a place of much interest. In addition to fruit, the -necessary potato and onion are being cultivated, and in some cases yield -very largely per acre. It was my intention to stay at Katanning, as I -wished to see the much-talked-of orchard and vineyard of the Hon. F. H. -Piesse. - -It being night when I arrived, I could not see what the place was like, -but in the morning light I found it a most charming little village. -A great deal of land has recently been taken up by selectors; during -last year over 1500 applications were made for homesteads and farms -on conditional purchase, and many more for pastoral leases and town -and suburban lots. The harvest returns here are very satisfactory, 15 -bushels of wheat to the acre being the average. Many farmers are coming -over from the other colonies to select land for farms, as well as people -from England and other countries. The Katanning area contains 100,000 -acres, so there is plenty of room for many farms and orchards. Assisted -passages are granted from England to intending farmers and agriculturists -and their families, also to single women and widows. They can come to -this colony by only paying £8 5_s._ towards their passages. These people -must, however, be approved by the Agent-General, Hon. Henry Bruce Lefroy, -in London (15 Victoria Street, Westminster, S.W.), from whose clerks -intending passengers can get any necessary information by writing to ask -for it. On arrival in Western Australia the new-comer will be afforded -every assistance by the Government land-agents who are stationed in the -principal towns. - -The orchards and vineyards of Mr. Piesse are really wonderful. There are -65 acres of fruit-trees, bearing all kinds of fruit of exquisite flavour, -some of the pears weighing over 2 lb. each, and the peaches, apricots, -and apples of equal size and beauty. The apples grown here are famed for -their size, sweetness, and flavour. - -There were acres and acres of vines loaded with large and luscious -grapes, the purple ones, with their lovely bloom, offering a picture to -the eye as well as refreshment to the palate. The cost of clearing land -in this district is only from 35s. to £3 per acre, so that any one with -small capital could soon have an orchard or farm of their own. The day is -evidently not far distant when Western Australia will not only produce -sufficient for all her own requirements, but, being nearer the European -markets by several days’ journey than the other colonies, will be able -to supply the markets of the outside world with her fruits, especially -grapes, the soil in some parts being particularly suitable for vine -culture. Her goldfields may in time be exhausted, her forests may be -converted into timber, but the soil will always remain and vines will -always grow as long as the sun shines to mature the grapes for wine to -make glad the heart of man. Almond-trees also grow wonderfully well, and -tons of almonds are sent every year from Katanning to different parts of -the colonies. - -One very great feature connected with fruit farming in Western Australia -is that there are no fruit pests in the colony, no phylloxera, no codlin -moth, and no nasty little fruit-fly to spoil the growth of things. Every -care is taken that nothing of the kind shall be brought here from other -places, all fruit being rigorously examined by experts before being -passed by the Customs. - -Seated behind a fast pair of Australian brumbys—(these horses, called by -the natives Warrigals, are very hardy animals, and are well known to go -longer distances without nourishment of any sort than any others of their -kind; when proper food is unobtainable, they can subsist on the driest -of spinifex grass, or scrub, and what would kill other horses does not -seem materially to injure them)—I had a lovely drive over Mr. Piesse’s -properties. One splendid field of wheat, 300 acres in extent, was a great -sight. As far as the eye could reach this field, with its magnificent -crop, waved before the breeze. We had passed the orchard with its acres -of fruit-trees bending beneath the weight of fruit. Then we came to the -vines with their rich and luscious grapes, then—a complete and charming -change of scene—to the cornfield. On the far side of the field two -waggons, each drawn by nine horses and laden with a tremendous load of -produce of the glorious earth, were wending their way to the mill, which -was seen in the distance on the other side. A forest of trees, white gum, -York gum, and raspberry wood, sent a subtle perfume through the air. -Opening a large white double gate (one of many), we drove right through -the pretty cornfield, and one could imagine the feelings of Bobby Burns -when he wrote his exquisite poem, “When the corn is waving, Annie dear.” -Returning on the other side of the field, a pretty view is seen of the -village of Katanning bathed in the golden sunlight. - -We passed the model farm of Mr. Stanbury and came to Mr. Piesse’s -splendid and most interesting mill: all the very newest machinery for -turning the ripe corn into flour is here. I thought of our ancestors -crushing wheat between stones, and watched the beautiful white stuff -coming down the huge cylinders, automatically filling the corn sacks -and coming to a dead stop when full, with no assistance from the human -hand, while the man who had placed the sack on the cylinder stood by -sewing up with twine the last one filled. The click came to notify that -a bag was full; it was taken off, and another put on to go through the -same process. Tons of refuse from the wheat were being thrown out, and -on my asking what was done with it, Mr. Piesse said that it was given to -the pigs. This splendid mill was built in 1891, but, in consequence of -the rush to goldfields which broke out in 1893, lay idle for nearly two -years, all the produce being wanted for chaff, which could not be cut -quick enough for the demand. - -A great deal of land-clearing is going on in the different selections, -and it is interesting to see the forest devil or tree-puller at work. -This operates by means of a chain placed round the tree and a lever -worked by a man; in about 15 minutes a great tree will come up root and -branch, and fall never to rise again. - -[Illustration: Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills] - -Resuming my journey next morning, I once more sped on by train through -the flower-scented country, passing Wagin, Narrogin, famous for oranges; -Pingelly, and Beverley (all rich agricultural country). Here we partook -of a very good repast, this being the place where many Perth passengers -break the journey when going to Albany, or _vice versâ_; then, after a -further run of 20 miles, we stopped at the pretty little town of York, on -the banks of the Avon river. It nestles in a valley almost surrounded -by green hills, and as I walked across the bridge, built of jarrah-wood, -that spans the pretty river, I thought I had never seen a more pastoral -or a prettier place. The town is in two parts, one each side of the Avon, -which is crossed by three bridges. The pale yellow fields of corn, the -pretty houses on the hillsides, the beautiful cattle grazing, and the -fruit growing in profusion in the various gardens and orchards, make a -charming picture. Quantities of sandal-wood grow close to the town, and -constitute a valuable industry; the jam-wood also thrives well, and the -scent of it makes one imagine oneself in the vicinity of a raspberry-jam -factory. The headquarters of Parker’s Eucalyptus Distillery are here. The -distillery is at Dangin, about 40 miles off, where the beautiful fruits -that grow at York are preserved by the same firm, and are quite tempting -to look at and exquisite to taste. Farming is very advanced in York. -I was shown some wheat from a farm, a portion of a crop that yielded -32 bushels per acre. The farmers employ the very latest improvements -in machinery, and say that, though expensive at first, they find these -cheaper in the end, the expense of working the land being greatly reduced -by using the newest strippers, &c. It speaks well for the productive -capacity of the district that 24,000 bushels of splendid wheat were -waiting, at the Empire Milling Company’s storehouse, to be turned into -flour. - -Driving from York to Greenhills, through the Avon valley, I passed Mr. -Jesse Scott’s magnificent farm. Imagine a cornfield, or, I should say, a -succession of cornfields, of 450 acres, on some parts of which the oats -had attained the height of 7 feet. These portions of the fields would -yield 60 bushels to the acre, and the whole 450 acres would average 35 -bushels per acre. It was, indeed, a magnificent sight. On other parts of -Mr. Scott’s property rye, buffalo, and prairie grass were making great -progress, while 12 acres were planted with vines. - -[Illustration: YORK] - -The tanning industry is well represented. I saw splendid samples of plain -and fancy leather when visiting Mr. Hay’s factory; one enormous side -weighed 39 pounds, kangaroo skins are also tanned and make a beautiful -shiny leather. Kangaroo meat is eaten here, although beef and mutton are -plentiful. Many people seem to prefer “Roo” steak. I confess I was rather -surprised at breakfast to hear the waiter, in reading the menu, mention -the latter dish. I did not test it, but at dinner tried kangaroo-tail -soup, and found it really excellent. The much-esteemed Roman Catholic -priest, Father Gibney, brother of Bishop Gibney, lives in York, and also -has a pretty little place (which is his hobby) called Springfield, about -three miles out. The Rev. Father has hundreds of fruit-trees of different -kinds, and quite an orangery. I brought away several branches with eight -or nine oranges on each as mementoes of my very pleasant visit. There -are some good buildings, a fine Post Office, Mechanics’ Institute, -Court-house, and some handsome churches, as well as many good shops. York -is one of the oldest Western Australian towns, and enjoys the distinction -of being the place where the first official execution took place in -1840. The wife of a settler, Mrs. Cook, and her infant, were murdered -by aborigines during the absence of her husband. The murderers escaped -into the Bush, and were only brought to justice through a tribal quarrel -which resulted in some natives betraying them. They were conveyed to the -scene of their crime and hanged in chains, in the presence of a large -gathering of natives. Up to this time there was an impression amongst the -natives that an absence in the bush, long or short, absolved them from -punishment. This execution dispelled any idea of that kind which they may -have entertained, and taught them a wholesome lesson. - -A very well-known person in early times was called the Duke of York. He -used to go between Perth and York in a little cart carrying goods, not -least of which was a keg of rum, the virtues of which would have been -even more warmly appreciated if the old fellow had left it in its natural -state, and not mixed so much _aqua pura_ with it. His descendants have -risen in the world, and in place of the keg of rum of their ancestor have -now bonded stores of large extent. - -On leaving York _en route_ for Perth the train journey was rendered -delightful by the beautiful carpet of wild and many-coloured flowers on -each side of the line. As the train sped past the idea struck me that -these flowers—lovely immortelles, white, pink, and yellow, growing in -countless millions—could be turned to good account. Conversing with a -Westralian (white) native in the train, I find such a thing had never -been thought of, and what could be made a source of wealth by some -energetic people seems here hardly to be noticed. Thousands of crosses, -wreaths, anchors, screens, fans, and other decorations could be made -of these flowers, and would, I am sure, command a ready sale on the -Continent, especially in France, where there is such a love of flowers -for ceremonial purposes. At present, like the boronia, which usually -seems to waste its sweetness on the desert air, they appear to be not -much admired, except by people travelling through the country, who -cannot fail to be impressed, like myself, by their beauty. For perfumery -purposes, the little coffee-coloured boronia must have a great future -before it, as well as the lovely immortelles. My friend in the train -said, “I don’t think they are much good.” He put me in mind of the -soldier, a good many years ago, who, on the defeat of Parses the Persian, -found a bag of shining leather filled with pearls. Not knowing their -value, he threw them away, but kept the leather bag, saying, “What was of -no use could be of no value.” - - - - -[Illustration: Moirs’ Buildings] - - - - -CHAPTER III - - Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation - Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.” - - -And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I remember it -on my last arrival, after my memorable journey across the sand plains, it -was a very sleepy little town. Now it is a handsome and prosperous city, -with noble buildings on all sides, electric light, tramcars, beautiful -parks around it, and yachts dancing on the broad waters of the Swan -river. Perth is beautifully situated, and one cannot fail to be charmed -with its picturesque and lovely surroundings. - -[Illustration: Swan River, Perth] - -Perth on a Spring day presents a charming and animated picture. Boats -and steamers ply across Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other -shore, while black swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much -admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies and trees, -the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above everything its -smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild flowers of every colour, -all help to give charm to the scene. St. George’s Terrace, the principal -fashionable street, is nearly two miles in length and planted with shady -trees. The Council have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the -idea, I suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden fruit -growing along the street will be something novel, but not, perhaps, -financially profitable, since in the hot summer time it will offer rather -a temptation to small boys who may have a leaning towards lemon squash. -Russell Square will, in course of time, be as fine a public ground as -any in Western Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred -there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor of Perth, -assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first trees: the rest -were set by the school children, who had been invited to attend. Many -beautiful Westralian, tropical, and sub-tropical trees will in future -throw their grateful shade over this fine square. - -[Illustration: HAY STREET, PERTH] - -Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in Perth: Moirs’ -Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New South Wales, De Baun’s -Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the new Public Works Offices would -do credit to any city in the world. The Town Hall, which, although -an imposing-looking building, is old, will shortly be removed, the -Government having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is -one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A new Town Hall -will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of the city. The Post Office -is a fine building in the French Renaissance style. Then there are the -Mines Department Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall -for entertainments, and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where in the -hot weather people take their amusements in the open air while smoking -and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is a fine theatre in Hay -Street, and another will shortly be erected in Barrack Street; across -the bridge we come to the Victoria Public Library, a splendid stone -building recently built, with an excellent library of 28,000 books and -pamphlets. The Museum adjoins it, and contains valuable specimens of all -the minerals of the colony, as well as biological and botanical samples. -The Railway Station and Offices form a fine block of buildings, and an -overhead railway is shortly to be started. There are some very large -churches, Trinity Church, St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church, -in connection with which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of -buildings adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, -an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on Sundays a -very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and Convent are near it. Not -far off is the Hospital, which is a credit to Perth, not only on account -of the arrangements, which are excellent, but on account of the kindness, -skilfulness, and attention received by the patients. It is most highly -spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The Royal Mint is a new -and handsome building, recently opened and Western Australia can now coin -its own gold into sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was -formerly done. - -[Illustration: Perth Railway Station] - -Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine yachts -and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one of the oldest -institutions, and has not only a splendid new boathouse, whose -accommodation and appointments excel those of any other on this side of -the continent, but also the newest racing-skiffs procurable and handsome -sailing-boats. The Club also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which -the members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess has -earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” The Royal -Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by the riverside, and the -many white-winged yachts that form the flotilla are a pretty sight when -sailing on the broad bosom of the Swan. - -Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers and colonnade -giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the grounds, though small, -are very beautiful; they slope gently down to the river by a series of -terraces, and contain many rare plants and shrubs. - -The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well laid out, -and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football clubs indulge in -their favourite sport, under the sunny skies and genial air that render -open-air existence so delightful in Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the -river faces the ground. This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club, -whose club-boathouse is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green, -where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first youth take -their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be found there on a fine -afternoon, for the club members are very gallant and always have nice -afternoon tea and its accessories for their lady visitors. The Cricket -Association possess a very fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the -other end of the town, near the Causeway. - -[Illustration: Melville Water] - -It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such remarkable -strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been appreciated. A few years -ago it was nothing but wild bush, and though, of course, the view was -just as good as it is now, few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills -to the top of the Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and -a transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a fence, -and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty summer-houses -have been built; it is five miles in circumference, and on the west side -are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads. The observatory, near -the entrance gate, forms an imposing landmark. Standing at this point -a magnificent panorama is spread before you. The city of Perth lies at -your feet, while far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds -its way to Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in -the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth beneath. Going -along the broad drive you come to the highest pavilion on the summit of -the Mount. Perth Water, with the boat-sheds and their many boats and -yachts, and little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a -jewel below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm Old Men’s -Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road continues on, and we soon -begin to go down the incline, where another still finer view looms in the -distance. Crawley Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at -the foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across the -river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that one cannot bear to -go on, but must pull up the horse and stop for a few minutes, that the -mind may drink in the sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the -other colonies, and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza on a -spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild bush is ablaze -with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. I felt I must stay for -a while and gather some of the beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which -are far more varied than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards -that by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, hope -for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native profusion, many -species have been transplanted from other parts of the colony. Young -eucalyptus and tica folia, trees which are indigenous to the Albany -district, and bear a handsome scarlet flower, have been planted on both -sides of the road, and will in time form an avenue. - -Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, with its -brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its exquisite velvety -softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, with their lemon-centred -foliage; the beautiful snowflake flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow -hibbertia; the pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or -native tulip, fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous -to particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall -never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery dales, -country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching far and wide. -Terraces have been formed, and paths wind their way down the hill to -the lower road. Here and there are rustic seats, where visitors can -rest and enjoy the splendid view, and there are, of course, tea-houses, -where you can enjoy the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other -refreshments. Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants -add to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a -really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen on all -sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the Narrows to the famous -and beautiful Melville Park. In the background, the Darling Ranges loom -grandly; in fact, the view is a magnificent panorama that could never be -justly described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the Park -Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for the improvements made -to this lovely spot in so short a space of time. Perth has now settled -down and become quite a quiet city again, whereas a few years ago, -when the gold fever was at its height, the state of the town was very -different. Then the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was -of nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal topic, and -one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a nugget or some gold dust, -or who had not specimens in hand—received from persons interested, who -expected to make fortunes, and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in -quartz, or of some other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they -were called. - -[Illustration: PERTH WATER] - -Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every stranger -who came to the country had to conform to the country’s laws. The term -“sandgroper” means white native; another term used here is “straight -hair,” given in the early days by the free inhabitants to the convicts, -on account of always having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago -any one walking in the streets of Perth after 10 P.M. took his chance of -being arrested for the night. The constables on their beats invariably -threw out the challenge, “Bond or free?” and unless the person so -challenged could answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z., -he was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known citizen was -challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! Bond or free?” “Free,” -answered the pedestrian. “Your name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good -enough,” said the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of -that name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal of explanation -the minion of the law rather reluctantly let the citizen proceed on his -way. A few yards further along he challenged another man, who gave the -name of “Snowball.” This name was too much for the new policeman, who -remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow go, for who ever -heard of such names before? Explanations, though freely offered, would -not be accepted by the officer, who triumphantly marched a well-known -and reputable citizen to the police-station under the belief that he was -some desperate criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the -prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to go home. -All this is now changed in Western Australia, the only convicts who are -now alive being a few old people whose terms have expired and who are now -inmates of charitable homes. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - - Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady - Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park Races. - - -It was a very pretty drive from Perth to the Darling Range Quarries, -where great quantities of stone for road-making and other purposes -were being turned out. The quarry is situated on the western slopes of -the range, and commands a magnificent view of the whole country to the -sea-board. The proprietor of the now prosperous quarries, Mr. Statham, -gave us a brief history of his enterprise, which began nearly five years -ago. For the first three years, March 26 was for him an unlucky day. -First he was burned out and lost between £300 and £400. In the following -year the same thing occurred, and he was a loser by £1200. The third -time, when March 26 came round, he felt disposed to stop the machinery, -but the day did not pass without accident, for the engineer was blown -up, and had to be taken to the hospital, but recovered in about a month. -Since the third accident Mr. Statham has felt proof against disaster on -March 26. - -Stretching away from here in the direction of Bunbury are over 80,000 -acres of well-matured land waiting for clearance and then cultivation; at -present there is no stock to feed on it, no creatures being seen but a -few wild horses. - -The homestead and vine plantations of Kalayamba, belonging to Mr. -Wiedenbach, are prettily situated on the wooded banks of the Canning -river, and the grapes some of the finest that I have ever seen. Five -years ago Mr. Wiedenbach obtained cuttings at a cost of 2_s._ 6_d._ -each, and from these he grafted six vines, out of that number four grew, -and at the present time the vines from the four cuttings number 500 or -600. The vinery contains 4000 vines. There are 3100 citron-trees, and -over 5000 other fruit-trees, many of them having fruit of phenomenal -size and most exquisite flavour. The oranges, especially the mandarins, -are really splendid. Last year 300 orange-trees yielded over 3000 dozen -oranges. The lemon-trees are almost as good. The climate of Western -Australia is specially suited to the growth of the orange. The most -delicious oranges I have ever tasted grow on the slopes of the Darling -Range, and must be eaten to be appreciated. The apple- and quince-trees -were positively bent to the ground with their lovely burdens; while the -almond-trees were a beautiful sight. - -There is also a magnificent estate situated on the Canning river at -Cannington, called Riverside, and belonging to Mr. W. Brookman, the -well-known mining millionaire of Perth and Kalgoorlie. - -This gentleman’s town house is full of fine furniture and curiosities -brought in part from Europe, among these being a dinner service of 120 -pieces, each of which bears a different pattern of Venetian lace, the -whole set representing every pattern made in Venice since the earliest -manufacture of lace. In the drawing-room are exquisite chairs, the -embroidery of which is the work of a continental sisterhood; vases of -Venetian glass which cost 100 guineas each, Bohemian glass bowls in -amethyst, thickly encrusted with gold; priceless statuettes of Carrara -marble, and elegant Louis Seize cabinets containing rare curios from all -countries, are a few of the contents of this rich room; while on the -polished floor are handsome Brussels squares, on which lie rare skins, -one specimen of a magnificent Polar bear, with glistening teeth, bright -eyes, and perfect head, lying almost life-like. A fine aviary adjoining -the house is full of the twittering of birds and chattering of parrots. - -[Illustration: MOUNT ELIZA AND SWAN RIVER] - -After the wealth and magnificence of the Gold King’s house, it is not -to be wondered at if other homes look plainly furnished, and yet Lady -Forrest’s, although an old-fashioned house, is most pleasant to visit. -The furniture and surroundings are in exquisite taste. The afternoon I -called, the artistic drawing-room looking out into the garden of sweet -flowers was most restful to the eye. Lady Forrest is most kind and -genial, and very much liked by every one. She takes great interest in her -husband’s work, and takes many a worry from him by seeing people herself -who come to interview him. “Sir John is nearly always busy,” said Lady -Forrest pathetically, “I can’t get him to talk to me sometimes.” There -are a great many works of art in the house, especially pictures, some by -Lady Forrest herself and some by well-known artists; many portraits of -Lady Forrest’s ancestors, and also bits of lovely English scenery from -her father, the late Mr. Hammersly’s, old home in England, called Pyrton, -of which she is justly proud. Mr. Hammersly was an English sportsman, and -came to Australia many years ago. Lady Forrest is a Western Australian -born. - -There are many other nice old houses in Perth, notably Mrs. O’Grady -Lefroy’s, at the upper end of St. George’s Terrace, called Cambay. The -house stands back in spacious grounds, and belongs to the family, which -is of old standing in Perth. Mr. H. Maxwell Lefroy in 1843 made an -excursion into the Lake District to the east of York, and his discoveries -have been of great value to the country. Twenty years after, in 1863, -Mr. Lefroy made a more extended exploration. Mr. H. Bruce. Lefroy, -the late genial Minister of Mines, is a Western Australian, but was -educated at Rugby, England. He was Minister of Education in 1897, and -has administered the Department of Mines with great skill, and to the -satisfaction of Parliament and people. - -Next to Mrs. Lefroy’s house is that of the late Mr. Alexander Forrest, in -1900 Mayor of Perth for the third time. Mr. Forrest has also done good -service in the early exploration of the colony, and is now known as the -Cattle King, because he took up immense tracts of land in the various -districts, utilised them for cattle stations, and amassed a large fortune. - -There are two daily newspapers in Perth. The _West Australian_ is edited -and owned by the Hon. J. Hackett, M.L.C. Mr. Hackett is an Irishman who -landed in Melbourne thirty-five years ago. He was a barrister, but shook -off the shackles of the law, came to Western Australia, took up land, and -eventually became proprietor of the _Western Australian_ newspaper. - -The other daily, the _Morning Herald_, belongs to a syndicate. As there -are several weekly papers, and a _Sunday Times_, Perth is well supplied -with newspaper lore. - -The weather being beautifully fine, I one day accepted an invitation -to the races, and behind a spanking pair of horses, and in congenial -company, whirled away to Canning Park. Arriving at the course, after a -pleasant drive, we found fully 3000 people on the picturesque racecourse. -Nature had donned her most inviting garb, the day was beautifully cool, -and the effect of the mantle of green with which the lovely country was -decked was heightened by the shades of the surrounding hills. The vista -from the grand stand was delightful, and everybody was in good spirits -and well pleased. The terrible stiffness which, as a rule, characterises -Perth society, seemed to be thrown off for a time, and the leaders did -not, as they often do, glare at all newcomers as if to say, “How dare -you come here? This is our country; stay away.” Many pleasant afternoon -tea-parties were in evidence, the racing was good, and the band played -excellently. Some very handsome dresses were worn. When we left to return -to Perth I felt quite charmed with the pretty course, and also with -my good luck, for I had won two dozen pairs of gloves and ten golden -sovereigns—quite a run of luck for me. - -[Illustration: ST. GEORGE’S TERRACE] - - - - -CHAPTER V - - The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South - Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight. - - -The new public library and museum in Beaufort Street is a very handsome -building, and well worth visiting. It contains many interesting -collections of birds, beasts, fishes, and other specimens indigenous to -Western Australia. The fossils found in the coastal limestone and in the -carboniferous formations extending from the Irwin to the Gascoyne and -thence to Kimberly are truly wonderful. - -The upper part of a mastodon gives one an idea of the tremendous size -and strength the animal must have had. The casts of the fish-eating -reptiles and saurians are marvellous. Any one going through the museum -and noting the productions of Western Australia, past and present—other -than gold, which many people seem to think is the only thing the colony -can produce—will be considerably surprised. - -The marsupials are, I think, of especial interest, and of these there -is a large and varied collection. These marsupials or pouched animals, -from the tiny crescent wallaby, no larger than a very small rabbit, -the pretty little kangaroo-rat, and the funny spectacled wallaby, to -the rufus or red kangaroo, and the great old-man grey kangaroo, taller -than a big man, and possessed of enormous strength and vitality, are, -according to Mr. Woodward, the curator of the museum, characteristic -only of the Australian region, the only kind of animal at all like them -in the world being the American opossum. Some opossums, however, have no -pouch, but carry their young on their backs. The kangaroos, as I think -all Australians know, always carry the little Joeys snug in their pouch. -And during my travels I have often seen them peeping out of their snug -home. Many different kinds of pretty opossums come next, ranging from -the pigmy flying opossum, little ring-tail opossum, and the odd little -rabbit bandicoot to the pussy-looking black, grey, or white opossum, -whose skin and fur make such warm and comfortable rugs for cold places, -but are not often wanted in the mild climate of Western Australia. One -tiny little mouse-coloured kangaroo-rat, found only in the south of -the colony, is very pretty, and makes a dear little pet; these animals -feed on the nectar of flowers, and when tamed, on bread and honey; they -sleep all day curled up into a ball, but are very lively at night. -Sleepless persons desiring a companion may be glad to note this. The -_Myrmecobius fasciatus_, or banded ant-eater, from Coolgardie, is a most -remarkable-looking creature, as, indeed, its Latin name indicates. - -The splendid collection of Western Australian birds is really surprising; -after seeing it one wonders how some people could say that there are no -birds in Australia. The typical black swan, white swan, and pelican from -the Swan River; the handsome bittern from Herdsman’s Lake, near Perth; -the giant petrel from Fremantle; enormous emus from the Murchison, are -all to be seen here, the last named with some dear little striped fluffy -young ones, the size of goslings. I have often seen these birds when -travelling on the Murchison myself. The ossifrag, a gigantic black-necked -stork from Derby, in the far north; the Australian egret, so often -plundered for ladies’ hats; magnificent sea-eagles; a most interesting -nest of the sparrow-hawk made of twigs and gum-leaves, and containing -four young ones, over whom the mother mounts guard; cockatoos, parrots -innumerable, with most lovely plumage; and last, but not least, the -graceful native companion from Broome. These are only a few of the birds -belonging to the colony of Western Australia, but I have not space to -mention more of them. - -The nests of the trap-door spider are very peculiar; they look like -a piece of ordinary clay, but when the door is opened a perfectly -hollowed-out room is seen within, where the spider and his prey almost -exemplify the old rhyme of childhood’s days. Some of the moths are very -handsome, notably the diuran and the podacanthus, the first named being -very large and of a lovely heliotrope colour. From these insects to a -whale is a big jump, and the skeleton of the whale stranded at the Vasse -in 1897 and secured by Mr. E. C. B. Locke, M.L.A., for the Museum, is one -of the largest of its species, if not _the_ largest; it is nearly 80 feet -in length, and when in the flesh it must have measured 86 feet. The head -alone weighs a ton or more, and the whole skeleton is prodigious. Coming -back from viewing the whale, my attention was drawn to the first two -sovereigns struck off in the Perth Mint, which repose on a velvet bed, -and are, it appears, of much interest to the rising generation, for three -boys were looking at them with great attention. The models of all the -great and wonderful diamonds ever found in the world, some very ancient -Greek coins, and famous French medals, work of noted French medallists -also a cast of the celebrated Moabite stone, the original of which is in -the British Museum, are near here; the last named is of great interest, -being inscribed in three languages—Egyptian hieroglyphics, Semitic, and -Greek; it was discovered in 1799 in the little town of Rosetta, on the -Nile. It was the deciphering of this stone in the Greek language that -gave the clue to Egyptian hieroglyphics. There are also copies of many of -the great works of art in London and Paris, so that, although separated -by so many thousands of miles, Perth still keeps touch with the old world. - -The relics from the wrecks of the _Batavia_ in 1629, and of the _Zeewyk_, -wrecked in 1727 at the Abrolhos Islands (the story of which I will tell -later on), are the most interesting things to be seen in the museum. -They consist of silver and copper coins, rosary beads, clay tobacco -pipes, copper kettles and stewpans, knives, spoons, scissors, fish-hooks -and sinkers, tumblers and wine-glasses, some of most delicate glass, -enormous greenish-looking liquor bottles, and some round ones, capable, I -should think, of holding gallons, cannon-balls and bullets, said to have -been manufactured by the mutineers on the islands, and two complete but -rather gruesome skeletons tell a silent and sorrowful tale of the past. - -The wonderful shells and corals from these islands made me no longer -wonder that the Dutchmen in 1629 named them “Abros vos olhos,” or “Keep -your eyes open”; they must have named them not only for the dangers of -the coast but for the marvellous things to be seen there. - -[Illustration: CITY OF PERTH] - -The different kinds of shells, sponges, corals, fish, and birds are -simply amazing. I can only specify a few, amongst which are the -tremendous cup-sponge shell, fully three feet long, the peculiar -montipara or screw coral, and the enormous sponges, the many wonderful -kinds of fish, birds, &c., from these strange islands so near our shore, -as well as from Mandurah, Rottnest, Garden Island, and Fremantle must -be seen to be appreciated, and I recommend every one visiting Western -Australia to go and see them for themselves. The collection of aboriginal -curiosities and relics is ample. The skull of a notorious aboriginal -murderer called Pigeon, who gave the police much trouble in catching him, -was shown to me. This native was named Pigeon on account of his favourite -way of despatching his victims by wringing their necks. There are some -fine native shields, spears, knife dabbas, meeras or throwing-sticks, -kileys or boomerangs, &c., and some most peculiar boat-shaped shells -that are hollowed from young trees and used for carrying water or food; -a wooden helmet, exactly like a sou’-wester, makes one think that one of -the Dutch sailors who came ashore in the early days must have dropped his -hat and some savage have copied the pattern in wood. The fish-spears have -about eighteen barbs both ways; the spearheads are made of many kinds -of different glass, and nowadays the natives knock down the telegraph -insulators and make them into spearheads. In former times silex, of -which knives and chisels were made, was used, but the other material is -easier to get, and the black fellow is well known to be as much averse to -trouble as some of the white fellows. I possess three spear heads from -the Kimberly district, one of which gave the death-blow to a man from -whose chest it was extracted. - -[Illustration: Aboriginal Camp] - -The medicine-stick or bunganarrie used by the natives as a cure is very -strangely marked, the markings no doubt constituting some imaginary -spell. The dandie is used for tattooing, and the gunda-stick, with a -knob at the end, looks like our life-preserver. The pindie pindie is a -native ornament stick, frilled to represent a feather, and sometimes made -of pretty green and cream colour. The effect is produced by scraping -down the green part of a young branch about two inches till it frills, -then scraping the inner pale part to frill over that. A space comes -next, and then another frill, until the ornament reaches the length -required. These objects the natives stick all over their heads. They -also make very handsome ornaments of large mother-of-pearl shells by -drilling a hole through the top, and hang them by a string of hair about -their bodies. The women have an ornament made from pearl-shell called -the binjah binjah, which hangs down their back attached to a currican -or woman’s necklace. The long marrie is an ornament of kangaroo teeth -attached to a hair-string, to hang down between the eyes. The booran is -a belt made from human hair, worn by the Kimberly natives. The native -women have most stringent ideas of mourning for their dead. A picture -of one mourning for her brother shows her hair all screwed up in little -knobs with wilgie clay and fat. Wilgie is a red-coloured clay or earth -used for various rites and ceremonies. The tomahawk or pulboo has a -handle of wood, the head being made of a kind of flint or stone, fixed -in with a resinous substance called pulga or gum, made from the roots of -the spinifex grass. Native spearheads too are fastened on with this gum, -which is found in solid lumps, and dissolves with heat. String is made by -the natives from the skin of the opossum by means of an instrument called -the boolga, which consists of a long thin round stick, crossed near the -top by two shorter sticks, and has somewhat the appearance of a boy’s -kite. In making their implements they generally employ a tool called a -bedoo, which resembles a spearhead. The ongath or fire-stick is used for -lighting fires, and keeps alight a long while, burning very slowly. These -sticks are carried about almost as we carry matches. The letter-sticks of -the natives, or paper-talk as they now call them, are beautifully marked -and of different sizes, the designs on those from the Gascoyne district -being quite remarkable. Around the stick will be marked, in a kind of -blue ink, all sorts of odd signs and figures, such as a crab, a gun, a -leg, an arm, a lover’s knot, a hand and arm outstretched almost like a -masonic emblem, and many other peculiar signs best known to themselves. -The dewark, or throwing-stick, is also an interesting object, and so are -the many aboriginal carvings and the sharp stones used in their sacred -or tribal rites. The stones used for grinding their food consist of a -large flat stone and a round smooth heavy one. Nalgo is the name of the -principal seed thus ground, but they have many different kinds of food, -which I will describe later. A tree called the boobah-tree grows at -Derby, and produces a nut as large as a goose egg. - -The natives about Perth and Fremantle were in early days very numerous -and troublesome. Native risings were frequent, and many hundreds of -aborigines were shot. The present site of the Great Western Hotel was -the scene of a large fight, arising out of the murder of two boys, the -sons of settlers, who were minding cows, and were set upon by the blacks. -The boys ran away to the Swan river, and one jumped in and swam across, -only to be speared on the other side. The other boy did not reach the -bank, but received five spears in his back and died at once. At this the -settlers were soon up in arms, and one bloodthirsty native called Yagin -was outlawed. He was eventually shot near Hutt Street, where the rising -took place, by Dr. Dodd, who afterwards took a large strip of his skin -from shoulder to foot, tanned it, and made it into a belt, which he wore -for years! - -That silk can be grown in Perth is testified by some lovely blue and -cream-coloured handkerchiefs made from silk grown here, and presented -to the museum by Sir John Forrest. Next to this case is an old plan of -Leschenhault Port, now called Bunbury, in 1803. Also a little picture of -the ship _Success_ and a man-of-war in Careering Bay, Swan River, in 1829. - -Perth does not yet boast of a large Botanic Garden, but as, in the -spring, the whole country around is one vast garden the absence is -not severely felt. There is a charming public garden, small, but very -prettily laid out, near Government House, and opposite the Post Office. - -Sir John Forrest prophesied, ten years ago, that in the future Western -Australia would come to the fore, and the prophecy is being amply -fulfilled; no travellers now ever think of making a tour in Australia -without coming to the West. Mr. Frederick Villiers, the famous war -correspondent, says that when he came to the colonies, seven years ago, -he was nearly coming here, and, now having been, he professes to be so -much charmed with Perth, and the view of the Swan River, as to feel -inclined to settle down and end his days there. These little corners of -the world have made him dissatisfied with his business, and as I gazed -upon the many spots of beauty on the river before me, while the faint -red blush of the sky deepened into a crimson sunset and cast a glorious -reflection on the water, I felt myself agreeing with Mr. Villiers and -disposed to stay in my pretty Claremont home for ever, where the sun -seldom shines too fiercely and the winter is like a gentle friend. - -One spring day I drove in to Perth to see the flower show, then being -held in the Town Hall. The drive over the bloom-covered slopes of the -park, the sweet odours of the pretty flowers of the Bush mingling with -that of the golden wattle, was most enjoyable. I can never ride or -drive through that park, and gaze on the beautiful scene below, without -feeling that God has indeed given us a lovely world to live in. It was -a holiday, and consequently many little parties (frequently of two) -were exploring the flower-scented knolls and enjoying the breeze from -the water. Perth was quite gay, all the carriages of the _élite_ seemed -engaged in carrying their fair owners to the flower-show. On entering -the Town Hall a perfect blaze of beauty in the shape of wild flowers met -the eye. The silver and golden wattle, laden with fragrant perfume, drew -me immediately to the spot where they were. In the “Salyang Mia-Mia” -(wattle-house) a most refreshing cup of tea was to be procured. Sitting -in this fragrant bower and sipping tea brought to mind the lines: - - All the world is turning golden, turning golden, - Gold buttercups, gold moths upon the wing, - Gold is shining thro’ the eyelids that were holden, - Till the spring. - -“Djanni Mia-Mia” (bark-tree house) was a triumph of rusticity, and the -collection of hibiscus, boronia, flannel-plants and mauve everlastings -were so lovely that I was obliged to buy several bunches of the different -kinds. The bamboo stall was also very artistic, and the bamboos furnished -receptacles for water, by means of which the flowers were kept fresh. -“Yanget Mia-Mia” was the name of the bush-house, which had a background -of bulrushes and blossom, and various bouquets of all sorts, sizes and -scents were so tempting that I bought more, and found myself becoming a -walking flower-garden. Wild flowers were here in every variety and hue. -Specimens of native flora had been gathered from the hills and dales for -miles around. The anygoxanthus (kangaroo paw), a most wonderful flower, -was to be seen in many different hues: the blue and red leschenaultia, -the trailing white clematis, or virgin’s bower, hanging in charming -clusters, white and red hibiscus, and the more delicate heliotrope -variety of the same flower, the delicate grey smoke-plant, with its dark -green leaves, the snowflake flower, which, when blooming on its native -earth, looks like a snow white carpet, one after another caught the eye. -These flowers have long stems, and make exquisite table decorations. -The thysanctus, or fringed lily, is a remarkable satiny-looking flower, -and has a habit of climbing. The delightful boronia has many different -varieties, the pale yellow being the prettiest, and the pink and white -coming next; the dark red or brown, however, gives off a most delightful -and refreshing perfume. The native roses are very pretty, the small blue -ones being the first and last flowers to bloom during the season. The -blossoms of the eucalyptus are of a magnificent crimson, and the delicate -pink and white flowers of the crowea hang in loose clusters. Having -travelled through so much of the Western Australian country, I recognised -many of the beautiful gems that are to be seen adorning the Bush in -various parts I visited. The kangaroo paw, before spoken of, has many -varieties, ranging from faint cream colour, through scarlet, crimson, -yellow, chrome, and green to sable, and in form is exactly like the foot -of our typical Australian animal. The little trigger (candolea) plant, -with its white flower suffused with shades of pink and yellow, and the -marianthus, a climbing flower, are extremely beautiful. - -[Illustration: DRIVING IN PERTH PARK AT THE SUMMIT] - -The peculiar-looking ice-plant grows in the hot dry sand of the coast. -I admired greatly some soft-tinted native tulips (pink), which were -prettily veined and almost transparent. The actinotis (or flannel -flower) is very abundant and long lasting, and therefore well fitted for -decorations. Pilotus (or cat’s paw) has a pink and white flower, and -retains its colour for a long time. A flower called the lactinostachys -is most phenomenal; the stem and leaves seem to be without sap, and have -a thick woolly covering; the flower looks so artificial that one can -hardly believe it to be real. It is found in the northern part of the -colony in hot dry localities. The clematis is a sweet pure white flower, -which literally covers the trees and shrubs where it climbs. The banksia -(or honeysuckle) is a handsome flower, with a kind of crimson cone. The -parrot-plant looks like a many-coloured bird. The grevillia (or native -fuchsia) is here in many hues. Sturt’s desert-pea is a very handsome, -brilliant scarlet flower, with black centre. The fringed verticordia, -with its lemon-centred foliage, is pretty, and so is the callistemon, -which has bright scarlet plumes. The petrophila flower has striking -blossoms that look like rich pink velvet, while the yellow flowers and -peculiarly formed leaves (resembling a stag’s horn) of the synaphea were -the most remarkable growths that I saw. Everlastings in every colour -imaginable were there. The delicate but striking beauty of various -orchids was shown to great advantage; the calendia (or spider orchid), -with its peculiar spots, was particularly attractive: the douris (or -dog-ear orchid), and the prasophyllum, with its spikes, 18 inches long, -of dense white flowers, were interesting; so was the lyperanthus orchid, -whose flowers turn black when dried; while the drakea (or hammer-head -orchid) looked almost like a little duckling. The glossodia, spotted -white, seemed as if it were varnished. Then there was a sensitive plant -called the pterostylis, which almost resembled a tiny box, with a movable -labellum, which is sensitive, and, when irritated by an insect, closes -the box and imprisons the insect. Droseracea belongs to the fly-trap -family, and has leaves and tentacles covered with a sticky juicy kind of -acid, which arrests the inquisitive little insects, who come doubtless -attracted by the dew on the leaf. As soon as these tentacles are touched -the leaf closes in upon the unwary insect, which is soon absorbed by the -juice exuded by the plant. The flower of the byblis, by far the largest -and most attractive of the species, is of a rich salmon-pink colour. -Probably the brightness of the flower attracts the insect to the stem and -leaves, which are covered with the same juice as the droseracea, but in -this instance the insect is absorbed on the surface of the plant. There -are thirty-six species of insectivorous droseracea. - -[Illustration: GATHERING WILDFLOWERS] - -There are hundreds of other species of orchids and thousands more of -wild flowers. The late Baron von Mueller said, “Australia is a great -continent, and much of its vegetation is yet unexplored.” The Baron added -“that more than half of the total vegetable species known in Australia -were represented in the West,” and mentioned over 9000 of them. Dr. -Morrison, our Government botanist, informed me that there were more than -3000 species of wild flowers. - -As I was leaving the flower-show I noticed some very fine Anthorreas. -“The King Blackboy” is a Western Australian grass-tree much admired. -A handsome painting of the Nutsyia fire-tree, or Christmas-bush, also -demanded notice. This tree bears very bright yellow or amber flowers -about November and December, and the blossoms being of such a brilliant -colour, and growing on trees that attain the height of from 20 to 30 -feet, are very conspicuous and visible at a great distance. - -Taking the little steamer one morning I crossed to South Perth. The new -Zoological Gardens are worth seeing, if only for the superb view from -them. A recent visitor said that he had seen many gardens in various -parts of the world, but none in a more beautiful position than at Perth. -The gardens occupy about forty acres of ground, and are a favourite -resort on Sundays and holidays. Family parties are made up to go to the -“Zoo,” for many Western Australian children have never seen wild animals -elsewhere, except in picture-books. The grounds are beautifully laid -out; the aromatic flower-beds, ornamental ponds and rockeries, gushing -fountains, miniature castles, turrets, &c., make it a charming place to -spend an afternoon and evening. At night the grounds are illuminated with -hundreds of different-coloured lamps, which send a rainbow radiance -over the scene. Concerts are held every Saturday evening during summer, -and there is a really fine quartet, called the Orpheus, whose harmonious -blending of sweet music in the lovely summer nights is well worth -listening to; the Headquarters band also plays. Many of the animals -awakened by the sounds of music (which is said to soothe the savage -breast) evince much curiosity, others slumber on, no doubt soothed by -the sweet strains. There are two splendid lions in separate cages. The -lioness is very bad-tempered, and on being placed in the cage with the -king of beasts, instead of showing a taste for his society, clawed him -unmercifully, he standing the bad treatment in a most kingly manner. Her -highness was, therefore, placed in a cage by herself to recover her good -temper. - -The baby tiger seemed to be a great favourite, and it was quite amusing -to see the antics of the monkeys in their play-room with the little -ourang-outang, with whom they seemed to fraternise amicably and to -play with quite happily. A ride on the donkey was much enjoyed by my -little niece. I wanted her to mount the dromedary, but she declined -that pleasure. Boys are pleased with the ponies, and the handsome -goat-carriages come in for a share of admiration. The sacred Indian cow -from Singapore, the newly arrived leopards, the white kangaroo (a great -favourite), and all the others, too numerous to mention, were thoroughly -inspected, and the children from the goldfields seemed delighted to see -animals hitherto only known to them through the medium of books. Hot -water is provided free of charge, and picnics are frequent; happy parties -of little ones were sitting down in the cool shade and making the place -ring with their voices. A view of the Canning river lies on one side and -of the Swan river on the other, the garden being situated on an arm of -land almost surrounded by water. - -[Illustration: SOUTH PERTH FROM THE BANKS OF THE SWAN] - -South Perth was in early days intended for the site of the city, but the -business parts having occupied the other side of the river, South Perth -has been left to become a most charming and aristocratic suburb, many -handsome residences, pretty villas and gardens adding to the natural -beauty of the place. An old mill is still standing on the extreme end of -the Point, and eventually a bridge will span the Swan river and connect -Mill Point with Perth at the foot of Mount Eliza, near the park. Land -is becoming very valuable here, and I have bought a plot with a view to -building a villa in this beautiful place. - -I did not return by steamer, which only takes ten minutes to cross the -water, but preferred to drive round by land—a drive of about four miles. -We drove about three miles before coming to the glorious Causeway, a -stretch of water which is spanned by an enormous and handsome bridge. -From this point a moonlight view of South Perth, Perth, and the Swan -river winding its way to Guildford, is seen, and forms a very fitting end -to a day’s pleasant excursion. - - - - -[Illustration: Fremantle Pier] - - - - -CHAPTER VI - - Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The - Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s - Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle. - - -One bright morning I started to drive from Perth to Fremantle, a distance -of twelve miles. Taking the lower road around Mount Eliza, a beautiful -prospect lay before me. The Mount rises 200 feet above the road, which -is only a little way from the broad river; the sun shone on Melville -Water in the distance, while on the other side lay the Canning river, -with trees and hills beyond. The pretty suburb of South Perth on its arm -of land, with the old mill at the extreme end; the many little boats and -steamers going to and fro, made a charming summer-day’s picture. Along -the road past Perth Park we saw the blue and silvery water all the time, -and then, when we came to Crawley, we entered a road fenced on each side. -Valuable land is placarded for sale, and no doubt in course of time will -become even more valuable. Already streets have been laid out for a -suburb, which, being so beautifully situated, will be charming to live -in. After a pretty drive of six miles we reached the fashionable suburb -of Claremont, where there are some very elegant villas and mansions. -A mile farther on is Osborne, the most magnificent hotel and grounds -in Western Australia. This fine building stands in large gardens and -grounds, and is surrounded by splendid conservatories and terraces. There -are wide balconies, arbours, and seats, and, in the matter of beauty, -the place almost realises Claude Melnotte’s description of “a palace -lifting to eternal summer.” It seems almost incredible that three years -ago this exquisite spot was the abode only of the blackboy, banksia, and -other native trees, and a shelter for the dusky son of the soil. Towering -high above the hotel is a turret of spacious dimensions, from which the -growing port of Fremantle, with many merchant vessels and steamships -riding peacefully at anchor, may be clearly seen in the distance. The -adjacent islands of Carnac, Garden, and Rottnest, with their rugged -coast-lines, lashed by the surging waves of the ocean, are but a few -miles distant. The clearness of the air gives a wonderful range of vision -from the tower. As you turn, you behold in the distance the dark woodland -of the Darling Ranges, whose summits seem to touch the sky. In the zenith -of summer heat in Western Australia, Osborne is always delightfully -shaded and cool. - -An artesian well in the grounds, which struck water at a depth of 150 -feet, gives an abundant supply, capable of supplying the whole of Perth. -No less than 50,000 gallons of water are used every day on the grounds of -Osborne alone. Steamers come to Osborne jetty during the week, and every -Sunday in the summer, bringing hundreds of people to enjoy the scene. -The steamer moors at a landing at the bottom of the cliff, and hundred -of steps have to be climbed before the top is reached. The climb is made -easy by a platform with seats at the end of every flight of steps, of -which there are five, and one can rest on these to enjoy the pleasing -prospect. Pretty villas are built all around the hillsides; dear little -Freshwater Bay, with its numerous bathing-houses and jetties, the pretty -yachts and boats on its bosom looking like white-winged birds, lies at -your feet; and the wild note of the magpies, not yet frightened away -by civilisation as the aborigines have been, is heard from the trees -in the distance. Continuing our drive, we took the inner road up the -hill. Another pretty little bay and suburb called Peppermint Grove, from -the fact that at one time it was a grove of delicate peppermint-trees, -discloses itself. There are many beautiful villas with gardens, a nice -white, hard sandy beach, a fine jetty for the many boats that come from -Perth and Fremantle, and the Yacht Club House. Keane’s Point, with a -handsome old bungalow on a fine site, hides a bend of the river. The -Chine, so called from its peculiar conformation, the ridge appearing -like the backbone of an enormous whale or other gigantic sea monster, is -another pretty spot. Any one who has the fortitude to climb to the top of -the Chine will be rewarded by one of the most exquisite panoramic views -of ocean, river, flower, shrub, sea and sky ever seen. The tints of the -water from the reflection of the azure sky melting into pale yellow, then -into rich gold and crimson from the setting sun, once seen will never be -forgotten. Turning back, we resumed our drive up Forrest Street and into -the main Fremantle Road. We were now in the seaside suburb of Cottesloe, -and away over the hill lay the beautiful Cottesloe Beach, stretching -along for miles. Cottesloe is one of the most flourishing suburbs of -Perth. A few years ago it was all one dense bush; now it is full of human -life, and houses are going up in all directions as fast as the builders -can erect them. Past the quarries we went until a turn of the road -brought us to a view so magnificent that its effect can never fade from -my memory. In the distance the dark blue Indian Ocean rolled in all its -majestic splendour; North Fremantle was in sight, and so was the mouth of -the Swan river. We approached the bridge to cross it, and saw an effect -even more beautiful. From the bridge on which we stopped a few minutes -in order to gaze on this gorgeous scene we saw many fine ships lying at -anchor on the broad ocean; up the river many small boats and steamers -were moored; in the distance were white cliffs and pretty houses; the -magnificent German steamer, the _Friedrich der Grosse_, was just going -out to sea—and altogether the scene was truly a grand one. I hope I -shall not be thought to rhapsodise too much, but I can assure my readers -that I am writing exactly as I felt when first viewing the approach to -Fremantle. - -[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT] - -When the new harbour is finished, Fremantle will be, as Sir John Forrest -puts it, the Brindisi of Australia. And now we crossed the bridge and -entered East Fremantle, leaving behind us the broad river winding its way -to the ocean between two splendid breakwaters. - -On we drove down Cantonment Road into High Street, the principal -thoroughfare, at the top of which is the fine Town Hall with its splendid -clock. From that point the street runs to Arthur’s Head, and is connected -by a tunnel with the sea; on the top of the limestone cliff is an old -building called the Old Cantonment, formerly used as a lock-up. Fremantle -is built on a low-lying neck of land between Arthur’s Head on the one -side and the limestone heights on the other, hemmed in on one hand by -the river and on the other by the sea. The city was named after Captain -Fremantle, who first hoisted the British flag there, in 1829. - -There is a fine lighthouse on Arthur’s Head. It is a white stone tower -71 feet high, with a fixed white light, visible for 16 miles. Fremantle -still possesses some old and singular-looking buildings. The old gaol -and court-house, with the harbourmaster’s quarters and the barracks, -will, no doubt, in course of time be replaced by more up-to-date -structures; there are already many very fine new buildings. Fremantle -has an excellent Grammar School, where most of the boys from Perth and -the country districts receive their education. Mr. G. Bland Humble, the -present worthy and respected Town Clerk of Fremantle, was the first -master, having been brought from England in 1886 to teach the young idea -of Western Australia how to shoot. - -There are many good hotels, the Hotel Fremantle being the best at the -city end of the town, and the Hotel Australia at the upper end. This -latter is really a splendid hotel, standing in an excellent position, -with a grand view of the river, harbour, and islands beyond. The jetty is -half a mile long, and some large vessels are always lying there. - -Fremantle is rapidly increasing in size and population, and social life -is not so divided as in Perth; there seem to be more geniality and not -so much stiffness about the people. A volunteer artillery corps, turf, -bicycle, rowing, cricket, and football clubs provide various forms of -social activity. There is a nice park, also a good recreation-ground, and -several places of entertainment, and the large hall in the Town Hall is -very handsome and superbly decorated. An inexhaustible supply of water is -obtained from three large wells connected by drives. The water is pumped -up by steam into reservoirs at the rate of 45,000 gallons an hour. - -The smelting works about two miles from Fremantle, at Owen’s Anchorage, -have lately commenced working, and are a great boon to the goldfields, -which until recently were very much handicapped by having to send their -ore to the other colonies to be smelted. - -[Illustration: NORTH FREMANTLE] - -The South African War is the general topic of the day, and with what -sorrow do we read of the sacrifice of so many noble lives! Several -contingents of our brave Australians have left the different parts of the -colonies to assist their British brothers with a little of the courage -we have in the Sunny South. The second contingent has just left these -shores, and Fremantle has had the honour of giving them the send-off. -Over 30,000 people assembled to bid them farewell, and a scene of such -unbounded enthusiasm ensued as has never before been witnessed in the -colony. The magnificent steamer _Surrey_ brought the New South Wales -and South Australian contingents, and these soldiers came in for their -share of admiration no less than the Western Australians. The enthusiasm -shown for the Western Australian contingent from the time they left -the camp at Karrakatta until they waved their last good-bye from the -steamer’s side will never be forgotten. The street decorations, although -hurriedly got up, were handsome and patriotic. At the Oval, where the -reception to the troops was held, a huge marquee occupied considerable -space, and rows of tables laden with every delicacy were provided for -the troops and for the many distinguished visitors. Over 200 of the -leading society ladies of Fremantle acted as waitresses, proud to attend -on brave men soon to embark for the perils of war. Although the men were -going away to face battle, all seemed jubilant, proud, and confident. -The three contingents were all like brothers. The cries of the multitude -were: “Cheers for the Cornstalks of New South Wales,” another for the -“Gum-suckers of Victoria,” one for the “Crow-eaters of South Australia,” -and “A great big one for Westralians; do your best, boys!”[1] At the -wharf, prior to the _Surrey_ leaving next day, somebody handed up a -bottle of whisky, intending it for a Westralian trooper. A Cornstalk, -however, became possessed of it. “That’s not for you, it’s for one of the -Western Australians,” shouted the donor. “It doesn’t matter, we’re all -alike, we’ll soon be Federated Australia,” laughed the Cornstalk, and -opening the bottle took a drop, then handed it round to the rest, who all -participated in it with real federal spirit. When the time came for the -troopship to leave, some affecting scenes took place between mothers, -sisters, wives and soldiers, but all bore up as bravely as possible. -Were they not going for the glory of Old England and the honour of their -beloved Queen? - -A Bushmen’s contingent has since left all the colonies, comprising men -who are accustomed to rough-riding and thoroughly used to rough life in -most trying conditions. From what I know of many of the Bushmen I have -met in my travels, I should say that they will afford the British troops -valuable aid in reconnoitring the wily Boer. - -As we all know, the Australians have since bravely distinguished -themselves, and our late dearly beloved Queen testified her approval of -their actions in many ways. Her late Majesty’s gracious act of proposing -that the Duke and Duchess of York should go so far in order to open -the Federal Parliament of Australia endeared her still more, were that -possible, to the hearts of her colonial subjects. As one of them who saw -the late lamented Prince Edward and Prince George when they went out to -Australia years ago in the _Bacchante_, “I can testify to the unswerving -loyalty and affection of Australians for our beloved Queen and all her -family.” - -[Illustration: HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE] - -And what a brilliant record our Western Australians, especially those of -the first contingent, who have returned to Perth, have taken back with -them! Truly they deserve the laurel-wreath of honour, while those who -fell on the field of battle, giving up their lives for their beloved -Queen and country, will live for all time in our hearts. I cannot do -better, I am sure, than give Major McWilliams’ description (at the -banquet given in Perth in honour of their return) of the way in which -some Australians bravely distinguished themselves. - -“Before closing, he desired to tell them a story about their entry -into Pretoria. He thought it was an incident that all who participated -in would remember to the last days of their lives. The hills around -Pretoria were most strongly held by the enemy. Their mounted infantry, -which included the 1st Western Australians, were ordered to take a hill. -They climbed up the kopje, the horses being led behind them, and fought -until relieved by the Gordon Highlanders. Their little band had to do -the work of infantry, and the handful of men held the top of that hill, -and kept the enemy at bay, until the Imperial troops appeared on the -scene. The latter said: ‘This is our job now; you are mounted, and you -will be required somewhere else.’ The colonials informally handed over -the work to the Highlanders, and an order came from Colonel De Lisle to -move back to the hills to outflank the enemy, if possible. They did so -under a heavy fire, but the enemy, on seeing them, must have exaggerated -their numbers, for they made off into Pretoria as fast as they could. The -Western Australians followed, and on that night got within a thousand -yards of Pretoria. At that time Lord Roberts’ main column was six miles -in their rear. Their infantry decided to hold the position close to -Pretoria until morning. During that night one of their number, a son of -an esteemed resident of Perth—he referred to Captain Parker—was sent with -a few men into Pretoria to blow up the line, and he certainly had the -honour of being the first armed man to enter Pretoria. That, he thought, -was a great thing to claim for a Western Australian. He might also state -a fact not generally known, that the flag of truce on the night before -was taken in by a New South Wales officer, an Australian born. This -little company numbered less than one hundred men.” - - TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES. - - The _Gazette_ of October 4 states that the King has been - graciously pleased to signify his intention to confer the - decoration of the Victoria Cross on Lieut. F. W. Bell, West - Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham, - 4th New Zealand Contingent. - - At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy - fire after holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man - dismounted, and returned and took him up behind him; the horse - not being equal to the weight fell with them; Lieut. Bell then - remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement till he was - out of danger. - - Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third - generation. He was one of the handful of men who so - distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, when twenty-five - members of the corps held a body of twelve times their number - of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the - corps was attached—and the guns retired. - - Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. - Hardham was with a section which was extended and hotly engaged - with a party of about twenty Boers. Just before the force - commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was wounded and his horse - killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under a heavy fire - to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, - and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety. - - Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New - Zealand. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -ROTTNEST - - Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The - Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour. - - -A very pleasant excursion is to Rottnest Island, twelve miles from -Fremantle. We left Perth in the morning in the steamer to go down the -Swan river, and then across the harbour from Fremantle to the island. -The day was perfect, the scenery exquisite. I do not think the Eastern -Colonists are aware how beautiful their Western sister is, or they would -flock over here still faster than they are now doing. Leaving South -Perth at our back, we had the magnificent stretch of Melville Water in -front of us. Melville Park Estate is a very valuable property, and is -rapidly being transformed from the primeval bush into a place of busy -life; residential areas are being laid out, houses have been built, -suburbs will soon arise, and land is rapidly going up in value. The -little steamer for Coffee Point was just ahead of us, and at the Point -we could see a fine bungalow, which must be a pleasant house to live in. -Wattle-trees and beautiful flowers were seen in abundance through the -field glass I had brought, and we decided that Melville Water was another -beautiful feature of Western Australia. - -We steamed past Mount Eliza, with its beautiful terraces of flowers and -shrubs looking down upon us. The water was shining like a jewel at its -foot. After rounding Crawley Point, where the handsome residence of Sir -George Shenton stands, we soon passed into the loveliest little bay -conceivable (Freshwater), its high cliffs studded with pretty villas, and -the grand Hotel Osborne in the distance. Then on past Cottesloe, and -into the Swan river again, down past Fremantle, and across to Rottnest. -It was a most delightful trip, and I am sure the lovely Swan river is -without a peer in Australia for rowing and yachting; it is perfect. - -Rottnest is an island about 7 miles long and 2½ miles broad, and the -scenery is very lovely. I do not know when I shall come to the end of all -the beautiful scenery of Westralia, as the more I travel the prettier -each place appears. The summer residence of the Governor is here, and -although not a palatial mansion, yet the situation is so exquisite and -the fishing on the island so good, that the Governor always enjoys his -time of residence there. An avenue of Morton Bay fig-trees, a mile in -length, has lately been planted on the shore of the Serpentine Lake, -near the viceregal residence. Salt lakes abound on the island. There -are chains of them, and the salt contains medicinal properties, but at -present the lakes are only utilised for the manufacture of salt. There -are some nice gardens, and agriculture is carried on by means of the -labour of the prisoners on the island, for at Rottnest is the prison -for aboriginal offenders and juvenile delinquents. There is a splendid -lighthouse on the hill, with a revolving light visible for 40 miles. A -most peculiar phenomenon appeared at Fremantle during the extreme heat of -the summer, namely, a perfect mirage, so that two Rottnests appeared, one -immediately above the other, and the lighthouse seemed to be of immense -height. Strangest of all, about half way up the double-edged island there -appeared a long line of foam, while beyond the island there seemed to be -a line of rocks—recorded by no chart—on the far-distant horizon. It was a -most uncommon sight. Rottnest has rich little valleys, and all kinds of -fruit could be grown there, for the soil is extremely fertile. There are -some very peculiar rock formations and caves, one particularly fine one -being called, after our eminent tragedian, “The Henry Irving.” No better -spot could be found for an invalid in search of health. Many people have -cause to thank the Western Australian climate for a return to health -after having been threatened with consumption. A friend of mine came -from Victoria very ill, and was thoroughly restored after a few months’ -residence here. The long summer, the bright sunshine, the dry warm air -and pure atmosphere are just suited for delicate lungs. The winter is -quite invigorating, with just enough rain and cloud to give variety—the -spice of life. This colony seems to combine all the good qualities of -the famous health resorts about which we colonials hear and read so -much—Madeira, Egypt, the Riviera, &c. - -After a most enjoyable day we returned to Perth in the moonlight, and -with the scent of many sweet flowers wafting from the shore, to the -steamer, arrived all too soon at the end of our charming excursion. - -A very pretty drive is to Woodman’s Point, not far from Fremantle. This -is a great place for camping out and fishing at holiday times. Numbers of -tents dotted about testified to its being a favourite spot. The boys of -the Swan Orphanage are taken out every year to the seaside for a holiday, -and this year Woodman’s Point was chosen. Their happy faces and healthy -appearance told you how well they were looked after. The poor little -fellows were delighted at the sweets and cakes taken to them by several -lady visitors. Their tents were models of tidiness and comfort; the -dining-room was a floor of bushes under a big gum-tree. With the lovely -blue sky overhead, the sparkling water of the sea close by, the beautiful -view all around of ships, steamers and boats, it is an ideal place for -boys to enjoy themselves, and they appeared thoroughly to do so, playing -cricket, climbing trees, and pursuing other amusements dear to the hearts -of boyhood. Some of them sang and recited very nicely, one patriotic boy -giving “The Absent-Minded Beggar” with much enthusiasm. As we drove back -to Fremantle the harbour looked splendid. A great deal of money has been -spent by the Government to make it suitable for large vessels; at one -time no very large ship could get a safe anchorage. At an expenditure of -over a million of money, however, Fremantle Harbour has now been made -able to anchor and berth the largest vessels coming to the colony. The -trade of Western Australia is now most important, and sums up to the -big figure of £12,000,000 a year; 50,000 people travel between here and -the eastern colonies every year, and millions of pounds worth of gold -produced in the colony have been taken away by sea. The mail-steamers now -put in at Fremantle in place of Albany as heretofore, thus giving great -dissatisfaction to the Albanians. However, the change of port is not only -necessary for trade, as Fremantle is the principal port of the colony, -but will also give people travelling from the other side of the world a -better opportunity of seeing the metropolis and goldfields of Western -Australia, which they were often deterred from doing by the journey from -Albany to Perth, a distance of 338 miles, so it is an ill wind that blows -nobody good. - -[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -GUILDFORD - - Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John Forrest—Darling - Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby - Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields. - - -One morning I drove to Guildford, 9 miles from Perth. Such a pretty -drive! The Swan river winds its way so far, and is there joined by the -Helena. The many farmhouses and crops of this fine agricultural district -impress one very favourably. About half-way there is a fine hotel and -good pleasure-grounds, called the Hotel Ascot, overlooking the river, -where much boating and fishing are enjoyed by the visitors patronising -the hotel. - -Guildford is a pretty place, and, being so near Perth, is likely to -become quite an important town. There are some good residences near. -On Mr. Hammersly’s estate, called Pyrton, after the family estate in -England, is a fine house, standing amongst unrivalled scenery. The -scented foliage of the big gum-trees casts a grateful shade for the sleek -cattle, and in the sweet springtime almost every bit of ground is covered -with wild flowers of exquisite beauty. The Hon. H. J. Saunders’ estate at -Henley Park is a few miles farther on, with a very quaint-looking house -70 years old, and built of sun-dried bricks. The walls are nearly covered -with ivy, and woodbine runs over the fences. All kinds of flowers spread -their rich perfume around. The orchard is close by, the scented blossoms -of the various trees mingling their fragrance with that of the flowers. -Mr. Saunders has a large racing-stable, and takes great interest in -racing matters. The private training-track, made at great expense, is -a mile round, and looked like a smooth lawn; the stud flock of Romney -Marsh bred sheep had been feeding there for the previous few weeks. Mr. -Saunders’ racing-stables are recognised as the best in Western Australia, -and he has a small and select breeding-stud, including Leda by Trenton -and Lady Sylvia by Newminster. His racehorses are likely-looking animals, -especially Henley and Black Rock, which have some very good records. As -we drove back to Guildford the sun was just setting, and the country road -with its red soil contrasted well with the different greens of the trees -and fields, and with occasional waving crops, vineyards, and blossoming -orchards. Everything was perfectly peaceful, until, all at once, the -stillness was broken by a party of huntsmen returning from a good day’s -sport. One of them turned out to be an old friend, who told me that the -country around Guildford is excellent for hunting, and that there is a -very good hunt club. Our Australian poet, A. L. Gordon, writes: - - “Here’s a health to every sportsman, - Be he stableman or lord; - If his heart be true I care not - What his pockets may afford. - And may he ever pleasantly - Each gallant sport pursue, - If he takes his liquor fairly, - And his fences fairly too.” - -[Illustration: Hon. H. J. Saunders] - -I put up at the Guildford Hotel for the night, and in the morning -thoroughly enjoyed the fresh fish caught for my breakfast in the river -close by. Some excitement was one day caused in quiet Guildford when, -some new works being in progress, some of the quartz boulders forming -the old foundation were dug up and carted elsewhere; a boulder fell from -the dray, and was crushed by one of the wheels; a glittering object -was noticed in the _débris_, and turned out to be gold; the quartz had -originally been taken from the Darling Ranges. - -I went on to Midland Junction, 2 miles away, _en route_ to the Mundaring -Weir, from which source the much-needed river of water is to be taken -to the Coolgardie Goldfields. This gigantic scheme will cost two and -a half millions of money, but what a boon it will be to the waterless -goldfields, of which far-famed Coolgardie is perhaps the most waterless! -In spite of the croakings of those who are adverse to the scheme, Sir -John Forrest will, I am sure, be found right, and when plenty of fresh -water is obtainable at Coolgardie, so that the millions of tons of ore -waiting for treatment can be properly crushed, people will see that the -first Queen of the Goldfields is not yet dethroned. - -The reservoir, where the waters of the Helena river will be stored by -hundreds of millions of gallons and then carried across the country to -the goldfields, is now in course of construction, and in two years a -river (so to say) of fresh water, yielding 5,000,000 gallons daily by -means of enormous steel pipes, 330 miles long and 30 inches in diameter, -will be flowing, and the Coolgardie housewives will be able to turn on -their taps for fresh water. A new era will then dawn for that beautiful -city, and its true prosperity begin. The sum paid yearly by the Railway -Department for water on its goldfields’ service would more than pay -interest on the cost of the scheme. The morning that I arrived at -Mundaring Weir the workmen were in a great state of excitement; their -residence blocks were being allotted. There were 130 applications, 6 -of which were refused, the applicants not being considered desirable -residents. The Department will not allow an hotel to be established. -Work at the weir was progressing well. At the huge quarries masons were -working up granite into blocks. There is an almost inexhaustible deposit -of granite, and the chief engineer, Mr. C. Y. O’Connor, intends to form -the outer face of the wall with granite instead of using concrete, as is -generally done. One enormous dam, nearly finished, is to hold 10,000,000 -gallons of water. The watercourse has been divested of timber, and the -appearance of the landscape thereby greatly changed. The weir, when -finished, will be 560 feet long, and will hold 4,600,000,000 gallons of -water. - -[Illustration: GOVERNMENT BORE, NEAR MUNDARING] - -The train that carried us back passed through miles and miles of -everlasting flowers. The ground on each side was covered with a carpet -of them. Acres first of white, then of pink, blue, yellow and purple, -charm the eye, and the kangaroo paw, standing up in its vivid hues of -crimson and green, added a still further charm to the scene. On we went -through the country robed in its spring garb of beauty, until we came to -Smith’s Mill, named after Frederick Smith, a young gentleman explorer in -1836, who died of exhaustion at this place after having shown courage and -endurance of hardship worthy of his cousin, Florence Nightingale. Here I -left the train in order to visit the Darling Nurseries, which, although -it is only seven years since they were first planted, are remarkable for -luxuriance. The trees, with their loads of fruit, were weighed down with -their own excellence. Thousands of citron-trees, 50,000 apple-trees, -peaches and nectarines in enormous quantities, plums, pears and prunes -in profusion, persimmons and other Japanese fruits were to be seen; and -as for the flowers, the scent of them was almost overpowering. The roses -were especially fine; all possible sorts seemed to be growing here. -The foliage of the English and Canadian elm-trees and poplars formed -a pleasing contrast to the forest vegetation around. It is only a few -minutes’ walk from the station to this charming place, which is but 16 -miles from Perth; and any one wanting a change from the city should take -an afternoon and visit it. - -Five miles from Mr. Hawter’s nursery garden is the Haughton Vineyard, now -owned by the Mundaring Wine Company. The vines grow at an altitude of -1000 feet above the sea-level. The wine is delicious. There is a notable -grape growing there called “Tarbinet Sauvignon,” from which is produced -the celebrated Lafitte claret. Mundaring seems to be a congenial home to -the vine, and its productive powers are of a high order. - -Another charming place to see, 28 miles from Perth, is Kelmscott, -nestling in its bed of flowers. Everything looked delightful on the -morning that I went there. Nature never appeared more beautiful; it -seemed cruel to pluck the flowers from their beds and crush the sweet -grass with the horse’s hoofs. I felt almost like Mr. Ruskin, who was such -a passionate defender of nature that he would never pluck a flower. Two -miles from Kelmscott is another sweet little village called Armadale. I -put up at the picturesque inn and enjoyed a few days’ quiet rest among -the beautiful surroundings. The orchards, gardens, and vineyards here -are so many that it would take a whole book to describe them. Sir Arthur -Stepney and Mr. Jull own the largest properties, and have recently -equipped a vinery. Only a few years ago immense jarrah and cool white and -red gum trees stood in undisputed possession. Now fruits of all kinds -are growing in luxuriance. Oranges, lemons, and sub-tropical fruits -seem to flourish especially well. So do flowers; blue lechenaultias, -coral creeper, heaths of all colours, heliotrope, primroses, pink, and -yellow blossoms nestle in the grass. Lovely bouquets can be made from -the delicate grey smoke-flower and the pink immortelles, and will last -a long time without water. Six miles farther on we came to Jarrahdale. -As its name imports, this is the home of the jarrah-tree, and there are -large timber mills called the Jarrahdale Jarrah Mills, owned by a London -company with a capital of £300,000. This company have the advantage of -the fine harbour of Rockingham, where large ships call to convey the -timber to all parts of the world. There are five mills on this property. -I stayed at the town one night, and attended a concert got up by the -employées, which was quite enjoyable, many of them being really good -singers and dancers. There is a nice hall, built, of course, with the -handsome jarrah-wood, which polishes so beautifully that it looks like -mahogany. It never shrinks or warps, so that for a dancing-floor it -cannot be excelled. There has been a great demand from South Africa for -this wood, which is almost impervious to the ravages of time. Piles -that have been driven into the River Swan at the Causeway, and others -into the sea at Fremantle, have been taken up after 57 years and found -to be uninjured, having resisted the attacks of the sea worm. This wood -is one of the best for building purposes, for it resists the white ant -and is the least inflammable kind known; yet when burning it throws out -immense heat and makes splendid charcoal. There are many charcoal-burners -about who are making a good living. Iron bolts and nails driven into the -jarrah do not loosen from rust, and there is no doubt the jarrah is the -principal tree of the colony. It has come triumphantly through several -severe tests, and is now in great demand all over the world. The Golden -West does not depend on her mines alone, but, as Mr. Zeb Lane said last -year, “Make no mistake about it, the jarrah of Western Australia will -yet pave the streets of many of the leading cities of the world.” The -late Mr. Ednie Brown, Conservator of Forests, told me that there were -20,000,000 acres of timbered land in Western Australia valued by an -expert at £124,000,000. At present there are 50 sawmills in the colony, -employing over 4000 men, and still the demand is much greater than the -supply, so that there is a great opening for more capitalists. - -Whitby Falls Lunatic Asylum is near Jarrahdale, and the poor souls who -inhabit it must, I am sure, find there a real haven of rest. The asylum -nestles in a sweet valley at the foot of the Darling Range, and the hills -make a grand background. Gardens, large fields and paddocks, with cattle -feeding, stretch all round, and close by is a magnificent orchard. Five -miles farther on are the famous Serpentine Falls, whose glittering -cascades falling among the big rocks and boulders, nearly covered with -scented foliage, then bubbling and rippling down the valley in joyous -frolic among the sweet flowers and ferns, form an idyllic picture. By -many this spot is called the “garden of the colony,” and certainly the -luxuriant ferns and flowers seemed to grow more beautiful at every step. -The blackboy and red gum trees grew more thickly than in any place I have -seen, and where those trees flourish everything seems to grow with extra -luxuriance. The blackboy is a most peculiar-looking grass tree, with a -rough thick stem and a crown of thick heavy dark green grass, looking -at a distance, especially in the twilight, like a real blackboy. The -gum from the tree is eagerly eaten by the natives and cattle. It also -exudes a resin from the stem, which is used for pitch in thatching the -native houses, or Mia-Mias, as well as for other purposes; these trees -burn brilliantly. The falls come rapidly down from the Darling Range -in picturesque cascades, falling over the crystalline rocks into pools -below, thence into the river. Twenty-six miles farther on is Pinjarrah. -To see this quiet little place now, one would not imagine that years -ago it was the scene of an immense native rising; that the soldiers and -mounted police had followed the aborigines for miles, and that here the -climax came, and hundreds of natives fell. Things are changed since those -days of bloodshed, and the few aborigines left do not seem to bear any -ill-will to the white fellow. An old native said to me: “I like white -fellow; he take all my land, but he make my house, and my big railway, -grow big corn, big potatoes; black fellow do nothing, white fellow know -everything, so white fellow do what he like—you give me sixpence?” The -black fellow always finishes up any conversation with that request. -Pinjarrah is on the Murray river, and the centre of a large agricultural -district, where plenty of splendid land is available for the selector. -Some economists say that population is pressing on the earth’s productive -powers, and that by-and-by there will be a dearth of animal food; yet -before mankind is starved out he can become vegetarian, as meat diet is -expensive compared with a vegetable one. It is said that twenty acres of -land are necessary to feed one man on meat, while the same land under -vegetable crops would support a great number. One acre of wheat will -support 42 people; one of oats, 84; of potatoes and rice, 176; so let -us not despair while the rich land is still wailing for cultivation. -Cabbages flourish exceedingly at Pinjarrah, and the climate and soil are -well adapted for English fruits. There is quite a thriving village, with -good buildings and private houses. From this place I took a drive of 14 -miles through rich fruit-growing country to the charming seaside town -of Mandurah. Pears, peaches and nectarines loaded the trees, and there -is a fine fruit-preserving factory, as well as several factories for -preserving fish. The Brighton Hotel is very comfortable, and you can get -a vast amount of pleasure at this charming resort. Boating, fishing and -shooting can be indulged in to your heart’s content. I had a right merry -time; several people I knew were staying there, and I became quite an -expert at fishing. Across the ferry from the hotel is the Murray estuary, -which is really teeming with fish. The goldfields people patronise -Mandurah largely, and many huge catches of fish have been chronicled -by them on their return to the fields from their holiday. Very large -kingfish are frequently caught with hand-lines. Almost any kind of line -will do; it is amusing to see the greedy things snapping at anything you -put on the hook. I saw one caught that measured 5 feet in length and -weighed 38 lb. Black bream weighing 4 lb. are a common catch. Hosts of -crabs are about, making the fishing more exciting than ever. At one time -I thought fishing the slowest amusement in the world, but after this -experience at Mandurah I am convinced that there is some fascination in -it after all. In two days a visitor caught 17 dozen whiting, bream and -mullet. The mullet is a delicious fish, more like salmon than anything. -Some English people staying at the hotel said it was quite equal to the -English salmon. As you may imagine, plenty of well-cooked fish is always -supplied at table, and any one requiring a quiet and enjoyable rest from -city troubles cannot do better than visit Mandurah, where, in addition to -the splendid fishing, other sports can be indulged in, since plenty of -good duck, teal and snipe shooting is to be got at the lakes 5 miles out. - -[Illustration: LUNATIC ASYLUM, W.A.] - -Returning to Pinjarrah, I drove out to a fine orange grove. Some idea of -its character can be gained from the fact that some well-known fruiterers -of Perth bought four trees from the owner at £100 per tree, and, -after ripening and picking, made £50 profit per tree. The Drakesbrook -Experimental Government Farm is about 12 miles off, and I there saw -enormous cucumbers, pumpkins, and other vegetables. - -Seven miles farther on are Millar’s Yarloop Mills. The export from these -mills is very large; 21 sailing ships and 15 steamers were employed to -take away the timber to various places last year. The settlement presents -a busy appearance. When the train stopped over 100 men came from the -mills to get their newspapers and see if there was any one they knew in -the train. I left the train and looked for an hotel to put up at, but -there is none; however, I obtained comfortable quarters at a private -house. There are several mills connected with Yarloop, among them Iron -Pot, so called from a conical hill near to it. Hoffman & Waterhouse’s -Mills are 13 miles away, and are connected by telephone with the head -mill. The office is very handsomely built of jarrah lined with polished -wood, tongued and grooved. Much of the wood of Western Australia is -suitable for small manufacturing purposes, such as making picture-frames, -walking-sticks and knife-handles, while the jam-wood, with its aromatic -perfume, is the very thing for pipe-making. I am sure a large trade could -be worked up in that business. - -Some beautiful artistic work in jarrah carving has lately been done by -Mr. Howitt, of Perth, and was shown at the Paris Exhibition. One piece -especially, a font, is most exquisitely carved. Besides these jarrah -carvings, Mr. Howitt has made some panels from the following Australian -woods—karri, tuart, redgum, sandal-wood, raspberry jam, banksia, she -oak, prickly pear, York gum, blackbutt, wandoo and morrell; each of the -panels is decorated with a carving of the tree’s foliage. I also saw -at Robertson & Moffat’s furnishing warehouse, before leaving Perth, a -handsome dinner-waggon made from seventeen kinds of Western Australian -woods, with which, besides the before-mentioned woods, salmon gum, -gimblet, castor-oil, swamp gum, and curly jarrah were most artistically -introduced in the mosaic part, and with the handsomely carved typical -swan on the top made a very effective piece of furniture. - -The Chamber of Commerce, Prague, Bohemia, have recently written to -Mr. Ulrich, of Fremantle, asking for specimens and samples of Western -Australian woods to be sent to that place with a view to future business; -and when the beauty and excellence of the woods become more generally -known I think they will be put to more artistic uses than wood-paving. -Outdoor enjoyments are yearly coming into more favour, and the demand for -outdoor chairs, seats, and tables must increase. The jarrah-wood never -shrinks, and being of a beautiful dark red colour does not require paint. -The timber resources of the colony are marvellous, and it is estimated -that it would take fully a century to exhaust the now matured trees, -while fresh ones would be growing all the time. - -The Harvey agricultural area, 9 miles from Yarloop, comprises 43,000 -acres; of this 19,803 acres have been surveyed into 155 plots. The -land is splendid for fruit and vegetables, and there are a good many -selections, 10,000 acres having already been taken up. The soil is -rather heavy, and expensive to clear and drain. The Korijekup Estate is -managed by Mr. Asche, and is well under cultivation, the oranges grown -there being especially fine. There are good paddocks for horses to run -in, and the next time our family steed is sent out to grass it will be -to Korijekup. There are about 12 homesteads on the estate, occupied -by different families. The pasture lands are very good, and the soil -well adapted for strawberry and gooseberry growing. There are about 10 -acres of these delicious fruits under cultivation. The manager’s house -and men’s quarters are near the river, the latter a substantially built -structure of slabs, made 60 years ago by convict labour for Sir James -Stirling, to whom the land was originally granted (in lieu of payment -of salary). In the winter time there are a great many trappers about, -who gain a good living by trapping the native bear and opossum, for -the skins of which they get 9s. per dozen in Perth. The grey skins, -when edged with black, make beautiful rugs for a cold climate, but the -winters in Western Australia are so mild that things of that kind are -not required. In the early days the old coach-road to Perth from Bunbury -passed near Korijekup, and where there were formerly only halting-places -many flourishing farms now stand. The land about there is very suitable -for dairying, the grass being green all the year round; the soil is brown -loam, interspersed with rich black swamps, and suitable for intense -culture. - -Another 15 miles brought me to Collie Station, where I took the branch -train to the Collie coalfields. Until recently these fields have been -somewhat neglected, but are now coming into great favour, the coal got -there having been proved to be of excellent quality, and now being -extensively used. The Government have decided to use it on the railways, -and many of the shipping merchants trading to different places have also -signified their intention of using it. The Smelting Works at Fremantle -are following suit; householders are consuming it largely, and I can -state from my own experience that it is excellent coal, which never goes -out, but burns to the last bit, just leaving clean brown dust behind. -It will in time be a mine of wealth to Western Australia and constitute -a great industry, making work for thousands of coal-miners, for the -deposits of coal are almost limitless. Bores have been used in different -parts of the field, and have proved the existence of enormous bodies -of coal. The Collie coal-mine has recently been bought from the Collie -Company by Mr. Zeb Lane, for the British Westralia Syndicate, and is now -called the Collie Proprietary Coalfields of Western Australia. - -Collie is a very pleasant little town, with some hotels, several stores, -and many snug and pretty dwellings. One usually thinks of a coal-mining -town as an uninteresting, grimy place, but Collie is nothing of the kind. -In the midst of a magnificent jarrah forest, at an elevation of 600 feet -above sea-level, this place has, I imagine, a brilliant future before it. -The air is delightfully bracing; the sea breeze blows in from the coast, -and in the near future, when the gardens now being planted by the men on -their residential plots have come to maturity, the miners will be able, -after their work underground, to sit under their own vine or fig-tree -and enjoy the pipe of peace. This is not a mere form of words, but will -be solid fact, for the ground is so good that, beside containing coal -underneath, it will grow all kinds of products on its fertile flats and -valleys. - -Many of the men are making very comfortable homes for themselves; they -can see that the field is permanent, and that they may hope to remain -here. Collie will, I predict, be in the future one of the principal towns -of the colony. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - - Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native - murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old - Residents. - - -[Illustration: Paper Bark Tree] - -Bunbury is 13 miles from Collie, and is the terminus of this line -of railway. In passing through Picton, 4 miles before you come to -Bunbury, you can see the homestead of the Forrest family. It is a -picturesque-looking old house on a little hill with a pretty brook -running below, and the surroundings are very beautiful. Mr. William -Forrest, the ex-Premier’s father, who recently passed away at the ripe -age of 80 years, arrived in this colony by the ship _Trusty_ in 1842, and -first settled at Australind. Some three years later he erected a mill -on what has since been called Mill Point, on the banks of the estuary -near Bunbury, and in 1849 removed to Picton, where he resided until -the day of his death. Mr. Forrest bore with indomitable courage many -misfortunes, such as the burning of his flour-mill, the engine and stones -of which were afterwards removed to Bunbury, and formed the nucleus of -the well-known Koombanah Mill, now owned by Mr. Robert Forrest, his -sixth son. The above-mentioned mill was the first water flour-mill in the -South-West, and was erected in 1849. Mr. Forrest dammed up the Preston -river and utilised it for the purpose of his business. You may be sure -that he was particularly proud of his explorer sons, John and Alick, and -also proud of the fact that one was Premier of the colony, and the other -Mayor of Perth. Sir John made three exploring expeditions, and it is -amusing to hear what “Tommy Pierre,” one of the natives who accompanied -him, said at the banquet held in honour of the explorers’ return to -Perth: “Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful to get back to Swan river, -Bunbury, Fremantle; I thought that we never get back again. Many a time -I go into camp, going through desert places, and say, ‘Master Forrest, -where the devil are you going to? Master Forrest, I give you one pound -to take me back.’ Master say: ‘Hush! What are you talking about? I’ll -take you right through to Adelaide,’ and I hush. I always obey him; I -only black fellow, you know, but I am all thankful; I always very glad to -see white fellow around me.” The _South Australian Register_, of August -27, 1870, says: “On Saturday morning, the band of explorers from Western -Australia, under the leadership of Mr. John Forrest, reached Adelaide. -They were escorted to Government House by a number of horsemen, and the -crowd heartily cheered them as they came up. These men are heroes in the -highest sense of the term. The expedition, as many in Western Australia -still remember, was organised through the instrumentality of Governor -Weld.” The late Premier, who a year before had piloted an expedition to -search for the remains of the explorer Leichhart, readily acquiesced in -the suggestions that were put forward by the then Governor of the colony, -and on March 30, 1870, accompanied by Mr. Alex. Forrest as second in -command; H. M’Larty, a police constable; W. H. Osborne, farrier, &c., and -two natives, he set out for Perth. The party followed the course taken -out by Eyre in 1841, but in an opposite direction, and although they did -not experience the difficulties that Eyre encountered, the troubles -were numerous enough. On March 18, 1874, Sir John Forrest led another -expedition to Adelaide. From Perth his party proceeded to Champion Bay, -and the wild, untrodden desert was safely crossed. On November 3, the -explorers reached Adelaide, and at a banquet which was given in their -honour a few days afterwards, the Premier of South Australia (the Hon. -Arthur Blyth), speaking of the leader, said: “Here we have the likeness -of a man who knew not what fear was, because he never saw fear—who -carried out the thorough principle of the Briton, in that he always -persevered to the end.” - -[Illustration: LADY FORREST] - -I have before me as I write a picture of Sir John as he was in 1866, 34 -years ago; also a picture of the third expedition crossing the spinifex -desert; terrible country to go through. An extract from Sir John’s diary -says: “Tommy (a native) went on with the only horse not knocked up to -find water. I followed his tracks, leading the two done-up horses. -Spinifex everywhere. We can only crawl along, having to walk and drag the -horses with us.” At some places the aborigines were very troublesome, -the camp being attacked one night by 60 of them, who could not be driven -off until some of them had been shot. Sir John Forrest is a man who -has the colony’s interests at heart. By his wisdom and foresight great -tracts of land are being opened up. In his own words: “We have a great -work to do in the great continent of Australia, all of it encircled by -the sea, and flying the flag of Old England, no other nation having any -right or part in it. And what a continent it is! The Western Australian -territory is as big as France, Spain, Italy, Austria, and Germany, and -contains 973,000 miles (square). If you were to walk round it, you -would have nearly a 4000-mile walk. The Empire of Australia represents -nearly one-seventeenth part of the world’s surface. We have great works -and great responsibilities before us, and we are proud of Western -Australia. We want to be in the future one of the brightest gems in the -English Crown.” In 1890 Sir John spoke the following words into Edison’s -phonograph: “I firmly believe that Western Australia has started on -a progressive and prosperous career.” Such words bring to mind the -prophetic words of Cowper’s “Boadicea”: - - The progeny that springs from the forests of our land - Armed with thunder, clad with wings, shall a wider world command; - Regions Cæsar never knew thy posterity shall sway - Where his Eagles never flew, none invincible as they. - -It was in 1890 that representative government was granted to Western -Australia, and Mr. Forrest chosen as Premier. In 1891 her Majesty Queen -Victoria conferred on him the honour of knighthood, and for ten years Sir -John Forrest remained Premier of Western Australia (establishing a record -in Australia’s history), a post which he resigned in order to assume -that of Postmaster-General for Australia; but has since been appointed -Minister of Federal Defence in the Ministry of the Commonwealth of -Federated Australia. Not long before her lamented death, our late beloved -Queen was pleased to bestow on Sir John Forrest the Grand Cross of St. -Michael and St. George, he being, I believe, the first Australian born -who has received that honour. - -I was quite surprised to find such a fine hotel as Gordon’s Pier in a -country town. The dinner was excellently served, the meat especially -tender, the fish sweeter, the vegetables nicer, and the fruit more juicy, -than usual. Perhaps it was because I had been roughing it a little just -before that I valued the extra comfort I obtained here. A splendid -balcony reached right round the hotel, from which was visible the -sparkling water of Koombanah Bay, with its long pier and beach of silver -sand. The lighthouse on the hill, with its square tower and grey walls, -stood like a sentinel against the sky. The light that shines out to sea -at night is 117 feet above high water, and is visible 12 miles. As it was -a hot night, most of the guests were out on the balcony. I lay back in -my comfortable lounge-chair, inhaled the health-giving sea breeze, and -thoroughly enjoyed a cup of delicious coffee brought me by the attentive -waiter. From the drawing-room, where some of the guests were passing -a pleasant half-hour, and while singing for their own pleasure, also -affording gratification to the visitors outside, came strains of music. -I retired early, and was agreeably surprised to find my bedroom lit up -with electric light. The noise from the machinery rather kept me awake at -first, but I soon passed into the land of dreams. The housemaid told me -in the morning that a great many people from the goldfields stay here in -the summer to recoup after the dryness and heat of the fields, and that -the managers of the mines usually wish to have their bedrooms on the side -near the machine-room, as the noise is home-like, or mine-like, and lulls -them off to sleep. - -In the morning I took a waggonette and drove out to explore Bunbury, -going first to the Leschenault Estuary, a sheet of water divided from the -sea by a strip of land 10 or 12 miles long. The surface was dotted with -wild fowl and its depths are full of fish. The Collie and Preston rivers -fall into the estuary. On the shore there are plenty of black swans and -wild duck which seem to be quite tame. On the east side of the estuary -is the site of Australind, to which, 57 years ago, many people came -from England to settle, but finding the place was not what it had been -represented to them by unscrupulous agents, they disbanded and settled in -different parts of the colony, so that Australind now is merely a name. -It is very prettily situated at the junction of the Brunswick and Collie -rivers. There are large dykes about there not yet explored, which may -contain wonderful mineral wealth. Manna gum-trees are to be found, and -yield sometimes as much as fifty tons of gum from one tree. - -Bunbury’s history dates from the first settlement of the colony, when New -South Wales sent soldiers to King George’s Sound in order to circumvent -the French, who nearly had possession of Western Australia. Governor -Stirling took up large tracts of country near Bunbury in lieu of salary, -and settlers were granted 200 and 300 acres of land as an inducement to -go there. When, 60 years ago, the intending settlers arrived and pitched -their camps, a few soldiers were stationed for their protection, but as -the natives were mostly friendly and intelligent, the soldiers had little -to do, so whiled away the time by helping the settlers, and as many hands -make light work the little community soon became prosperous. - -In those days the post was sent twice a month by an aboriginal foot -postman. Sometimes he got tired of his work, and would leave the post-bag -under a tree and decamp. Then scouts had to be sent out to find the mail. -An old colonist, Mr. R. Scott, related to me many of his experiences at -that time. Mr. Scott’s father arrived in the colony in 1830, and not -liking the look of Fremantle, which was merely a sandy beach and wild -bush, with a few tents scattered about, intended returning to Scotland, -but Governor Stirling persuaded him to go to Bunbury with some other -intending settlers. The younger members of the party traversed the 115 -miles on foot, the older people going in the Governor’s ship to the port. -The tramp was a long one, and young Scott’s clothes were so tattered -when he arrived that he would not go out to speak to the Governor, but -hid behind a tree. He was, however, persuaded to show himself, and the -Governor, seeing the poor boy in such a plight, sent to the vessel for a -suit of his own clothes and a cap, no others being available. By cutting -off portions and tucking in other parts the boy was made presentable. Mr. -Scott’s mother, who died some years ago, aged 88, kept those clothes with -great pride until the day of her death. - -Whaling was a local industry in those days. Mr. Scott and his brother had -several whaling-boats, and sometimes took as much as 90 tons of whale-oil -to Fremantle. An American vessel went ashore at that time, and the -enterprising captain, being stranded, took up a piece of land and started -a garden, which he fenced in with the staves of olive barrels. - -The only native murder at Bunbury was perpetrated in 1840, Mr. Layman, -a settler at Wanerup, being the victim. He was speared by the king of -the black tribe then at Wanerup, about 6 miles from Busselton. This -booka (king) came to Mr. Layman’s camp when a native boy, servant to -Mr. Layman, was packing up his damper (a kind of large colonial scone -cooked in ashes) to take with him as rations when he was going out with -sheep. The booka took the damper from the boy, and throwing him a small -piece, was going off with the rest. Mr. Layman came up and saw this, and -taking the booka by the beard forced him to give up the damper. This was -evidently too much indignity for him, and when Mr. Layman turned his back -he speared and killed him, then immediately made off into the bush. The -settlers, about twenty in number, determined to follow and execute him, -but found many difficulties in the way, as none of the natives would lead -them to his tracks. They, however, tracked him as well as they could, and -to frighten the tribe they shot down every native they came across. This -put such fear into them that an old man called Crocodile was induced to -show them the way, and they then tracked the murderer to the Capel river, -to a hollow tree, whence it was some time before he could be dislodged. -When this was effected he was found to be well armed with spears ready -to fight. He was, however, summarily shot by Corporal Gill, and his -head carried back on a pole to the Vasse (now called Busselton). Since -then the only known murder by natives was that of Mrs. McGowan, who was -speared by a half-witted native. The shooting of the blacks, although it -seems cruel, was the means of showing them that the white man was their -master, and after this no more trouble arose with the various tribes. Had -it not been done the tables would have been turned, and all the white -settlers might have been murdered. - -The natives are divided into four families or tribes—the Ballarook, -Deduruk, Donderup, and Gnakerunk. Consequently, if you want to find -out what tribe a certain native belongs to you must say to him: “You -Ballarook?” If he does not belong to that tribe he will say: “No, me -Donderup.” They are all brothers and sisters in each tribe, and bound -to protect one another. When civilised they make fairly good servants, -but never quite lose their wild instincts; and when they have a holiday, -which they frequently take of their own free will, away they go to their -tribe, and revel in free life until they tire and once more long for the -flesh-pots of civilisation, when they again return to their work. - -[Illustration: BUNBURY] - -Thousands of acres of land are available here for purchase. The Mangles -Estate has lately been opened up for settlement on very easy terms. -Potatoes, onions and other vegetables grow most luxuriantly. The pastoral -and agricultural land is very rich, and as many as three crops a year -are sometimes taken off the same land by Mr. Clarke, who has a farm near -Bunbury. The forest lands around abound with splendid jarrah and other -timber. The harbour is very safe and partially protected by a coral reef. -There are many handsome residences. The Hon. Charles Spencer has a large -house on a hill in the most beautiful position in Bunbury, and there are -some splendid vineyards, the soil being specially good for vine culture. - -The town has 1200 inhabitants and the district about 3000. It is very -prosperous, and has many fine public buildings; some of the early -settlers who went through so many rough times are now in the enjoyment of -comfortable homes, and passing peacefully down the vale of life. There -is an exceptionally fine post-office, standing near the spot where the -barracks were erected for the soldiers in the long-ago days. The hospital -is an imposing building, on an elevation commanding a fine view of the -bay, and has very pretty grounds. It would be by no means intolerable to -be ill in this lovely seaside resort, but, as a rule, people who come -to Bunbury get well, not ill. The walking, driving, boating, fishing, -bathing and shooting excursions that are the order of the day give one -no time to think of being ill. Cycling is a favourite pastime, and there -is a very good club. The streets are wide and planted with shady trees. -The Preston river runs into the estuary, its banks are loaded with bright -flowers, and the golden sunshine shining through the trees, the blue -water and the massive breakwater in the distance make beautiful Bunbury -look like a bit of Paradise. - - - - -[Illustration: Blackwood River] - - - - -CHAPTER X - - Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A - Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great Forest. - - -The Hon. H. W. Venn has a splendid estate called Dardanup Park, 10 -miles from Bunbury. The dwelling-house is built in old English style -and surrounded by a garden, where all kinds of beautiful flowers grow -in profusion. There is an enormous shed, capable of holding large -quantities of hay. The dairy cows, standing knee-deep in pasture, are -specially sleek and fat; the milk and cream that I tasted at Dardanup -seemed exceptionally sweet. I went for a six-mile drive to the Ferguson -river, passing many pretty farms, nearly all on Mr. Venn’s land. One -goes for miles down a narrow road like an English lane, except that the -hedges are formed of the beautiful Australian wattle in place of English -hawthorn. The grand Australian trees, red gum and jarrah (some of immense -size), the pretty banksia, the delicate paper-tree, the coral creeper, -which, as its name implies, is of the colour of pink coral, and in some -instances, had embraced the banksia-trees and mingled lovingly with their -broad green leaves, all combined to make a pretty picture. A little Roman -Catholic church and, farther on, a Protestant one, gave token that the -spiritual welfare of the people at Dardanup is well looked after. It is -singular how many native names end with “up.” On to the road to Bunbury -there is a station called Wagerup. An old settler in the district was -not satisfied with that name, and wrote to Mr. Venn, the member for -the district, to say that he was an old settler of 30 or 40 years, and -thought he ought to have a say in the naming of the railway station. -Being a loyal Englishman, he wished it to be called Queen Victoria -Station. I am sorry to say his request has not yet been acceded to. -Another loyal subject at another railway station, where there are about -two other dwellings, has recently built a bush public-house, and outside -is printed, in large letters, “The Palace Hotel.” - -Mr. Venn is very much liked by all the farming community. I overheard a -controversy on politics at the dinner-table between several farmers, and -they were unanimous in their opinion that Mr. Venn was the man for them, -and for the country. - -Beyond lies Donnybrook, not the great Irish fair of that name, but a -fertile spot of Western Australia. A mile before arriving there we -stopped at Baxter & Prince’s siding, 2½ miles from which are their -well-known sawmills, in which are employed a large number of workmen. -There are some fine farms at Donnybrook, and the estate of the Hon. -J. W. Hackett, with its orchards and gardens, is half a mile from the -station. In these gardens all kinds of fruits, especially raspberries and -strawberries, grow in luxuriance. - -On account of the marvellous fertility of the ground there are a great -many applications from people wishing to establish themselves on the -land here, and take up small plots for fruit growing. Two miles out of -Donnybrook is a goldfield, which may some day turn out to be immensely -rich. Gold was first discovered in the surface soil by some men searching -for the alluvial deposit. Further investigations with the miner’s -faithful prospecting-dish eventually led to the discovery of quartz -veins. There are several shafts sunk now to a great depth, all of which -have yielded a profit. Perhaps a new Coolgardie will one day spring into -existence here. - -Mr. Maryanski, the well-known mining expert, is largely interested, has -purchased property here, and has now gone to Europe for the purpose of -floating companies. - -To drive up the Preston Valley from Donnybrook in the lovely weather was -pleasant. The roads were certainly not all that could be desired, but the -forest scenery compensated for a little jolting, and the more one travels -in the West the more is one convinced of the resources of the colony. The -soil is a rich chocolate loam, and grass and water plentiful all the year -round. Hay is principally cultivated here, as a great quantity of chaff -is required for the horses at the mills in the district. - -On my return to Donnybrook, rather tired with my day’s excursion, I -retired early, and after a refreshing night’s rest started for Bridgetown -in the morning. The line has only recently been completed, and was -formally opened on December 2, 1898. It must have been pretty hard work -to make this railway, for the various cuttings are in some parts so deep -that 40 or 50 kegs of powder per day were often used in blasting the -hard rock. There are 178 cuttings and 204 embankments on the line of -only 42 miles, so no wonder it cost the Government a considerable sum -of money. Donnybrook is 208 feet above the sea-level, but Needes Hill, -7 miles farther on, is 770 feet above. After that the road drops down -again to 400 feet, then it rises again to an altitude of 1000 feet, and -at this point comes within 10 miles of the now well-known Greenbushes -Tinfield (of which more anon). A further depression of this elevation -brings it to Hester’s Brook, and then a further rise ascends to Dalgarup -Station, landing at an elevation of more than 1000 feet, whence the line -drops again to Bridgetown, only 510 feet high in the clouds. I quickly -made my way to Warner’s Hotel, and after an excellent dinner proceeded -to investigate Bridgetown and the Blackwood river. The orchards around -this district appeared to be very fine. Sir James Lee Steere, the member -for the district, gives a handsome silver cup every year as a trophy at -the annual show for the best-kept orchard. This has been now won three -years in succession by the Messrs. Allnutt, the Grange. Their orchard -covers an area of 30 acres. Mr. Allnutt, the father of the present owner, -planted this fine orchard 30 years ago. One can imagine what a wilderness -the place must have been then, and what perseverance has been practised -to achieve such a successful issue. The latest development is a steam -sawmill on the property for the purpose of cutting up timber and making -boxes for packing the fruit in. Every kind of fruit one can think of -is here. As well as fruit, magnificent potatoes are grown, and often -yield 15 tons to the acre. Now that the railway touches the place, the -inhabitants say that this will be the chief agricultural centre of the -south-west district. The people seemed so genial that it was really a -pleasure to converse with them. - -A very beautiful drive through richly wooded hills, the tender green -grass of which was dotted here and there by clusters of trees and covered -by the perfumed golden wattle and by many spring wild flowers—appearing -between an occasional field of newly growing wheat—brought me to -Dallgarrup, the homestead of Mr. Godfrey Hester, who has over 7000 -acres of land altogether. I found this gentleman engaged in skinning -and dressing a sheep; he had taken on a Chinese cook, and all the other -hands, objecting to the introduction of Chinese labour, had left in a -body. Consequently Mr. Hester had to turn to and do the work himself. - -About a mile farther on is Blackwood Park, Mr. Gerald Hester’s homestead, -with an orchard of 23 acres, 6 of which bear most lovely apples. There -are 2000 acres, and many cattle and sheep. The house is an old-fashioned -one, having been built 50 years ago for Mr. Hester’s father, who was -the oldest settler on the Blackwood river, and came out 52 years ago -He was the first Stipendiary Magistrate in the district. The house is -in a charming spot, and many handsome willows grow about the running -brook close by. The largest grape-vine I have ever seen is here. Mr. -Hester told me it was planted 40 years ago by his mother. The height of -this marvellous vine is 7 feet to the first branch. There are 6 enormous -branches measuring 8 inches round and averaging 100 feet long. The body -of the vine is 50 inches round. A very large trellis, which from time -to time has been added to, now takes up 39 feet of ground in length by -54 feet in width. The kind of arbour thus formed maybe imagined. 2064 -bunches of magnificent black Hamburg grapes, weighing over a ton, came -off this vine last year, which I am sure breaks the record of production -of one vine in any of the colonies. - -The drive from Bridgetown to Greenbushes Tinfield through forest country -is most enjoyable. This tinfield has of late been richly developed. Until -recently it was not thought much of, gold-mining having deadened all -other kinds of mining in the colony. Now, however, things have taken a -turn, and quite a large settlement has sprung up, and over 2000 men are -on the field. A good town has been formed where three months before was a -dense forest, and solitude reigned supreme. Jarrah growing on the spot, -and two timber-mills being close by, nearly all the houses are built of -the handsome dark wood, are thus much more pleasing than the usual tents -and camps of mining places, and stand out well against the tall green -forest trees. People have built very nice houses, evidently having an eye -to solid comfort, and thinking the field a permanent one. - -The town of Greenbushes is one long street or avenue. On either side -tower the enormous forest trees. The ring of the axe and the crash of -some of these falling giants, together with the immense fires burning -day and night for the purpose of getting out the tremendous stumps -of the trees; the energy of the people, and the numbers of visitors -constantly arriving to see the field, make Greenbushes a lively place. -The town seems to have sprung up by magic; there are 30 stores of all -descriptions, 3 hotels, the Court House Hotel being a very comfortable -one, post and telegraph offices, warden’s court, and other public -buildings. - -Miles and miles of the country contain rich tin. The tinfields are on -the highest point of the Darling Range, 1100 feet above sea-level. The -gullies and watercourses are very picturesque being in the heart of the -green forest. I drove down to Spring Gully, where the men were all at -work in their claims, and the various workings were most interesting. -Dumpling Gully is the name of another part of the field. - -There have been some rich finds. The Cornwall Mine, on the highest point, -has been proved to carry 13½ per cent. of lode tin. Another lode tin mine -is the Yarana, which has given good results. The lode in this mine is -similar to that found in Cornwall, England, being associated with quartz, -schist and kaolin. Tin ore is most peculiar-looking stuff. Some lumps -of it that are called “nuggets of wood tin,” weigh 30 lb. each; another -kind is like fine sand, and another like gunpowder, and the colours range -from white to red, yellow, ruby, black, grey and brown. Some of the men -have sold their claims to the syndicates for £4000 and £5000, and gone -on their way rejoicing. I was surprised to find plenty of horses and -cabs at Greenbushes; these are, no doubt, accounted for by the distance -of the town—three miles—from the railway station, which I passed going -to Bridgetown. The cabbies were doing a roaring trade, and the whole -community seemed very well satisfied with things in general. Gold has -also been found at a depth of 33 feet, the reef being nearly 8 inches -wide, and comprised of quartz; the formation enclosing it contains free -tin worth about 3 ounces to the dish. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - - Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All - aboard”—Karridale—Touring the Forest—King Karri—The Sand Patch. - - -Starting from Greenbushes railway station, I made my return journey as -far as Boyanup Junction, where I changed trains for Busselton, or, to -call it by its first name, “The Vasse.” This was one of the earliest -settlements of the colony, and is one of the most picturesque. It has -a beautiful bay, which, like Bunbury, was at one time a great whaling -place. There are about 30 fishermen there, and most of the fish caught -is sent every day by the Perth Ice Company to the metropolis. The bay is -nearly always calm, and English people say that it resembles Bournemouth -in old England. The lovely beach, with its hard white sand, is a -favourite place for cycling. - -In the afternoon I sallied forth to inspect the beauties of this place -and was quite delighted with this ideal town. Everything is sweet and -clean; the grass and the trees seemed to me to have a more tender green -than in other places. The beautiful sky, with white fleecy clouds, was -reflected in the sparkling sea; dear little boats were dancing on the -water, and at the jetty, which is a mile long, two ships were moored, -while another had just spread its white wings to fly to fresh seas. It -was a perfect afternoon for fishing, which accounted for the number of -fishing-boats out. - -The morning sun shining in all its glory awoke me early. I strolled down -to the pier, and met some boys coming along laden with fish that they had -just caught. I wanted to buy some, but the boys would not hear of that, -and presented me with two for my breakfast, which I took to the hotel to -be cooked, and no fish, I think, ever tasted sweeter. - -Looking one way from the top of the lighthouse at the end of the jetty -one saw an exquisite carpet of green stretching for miles, white houses -nestling in shrubberies near the winding river, and sleek cows in the -pasture, nearly up to their knees in the waving grass; out at sea the -fishing-boats were dancing on the waves; a big steamer in the distance -was on its way to the East; a white-winged ship was just disappearing -from sight on the horizon; and all these, with flocks of birds soaring -across the sky, formed a picture pleasant enough to charm any eye. - -There are some remarkably fine old houses about Busselton; Fairlawn, the -old Residency, for one. The immense China tree in front of the house was -a favourite spot with the late Colonel Molloy, when resident magistrate. -Under its shade he sat many a time transacting the business of the -Residency, and soldiers of the Queen have often passed beneath its shady -branches. Colonel Molloy was with Sir John Moore’s army, and also fought -under Wellington at Waterloo. A magnificent willow-tree, planted by the -Colonel in 1862, a few years before his death, from a slip growing over -Napoleon’s grave at St. Helena, is now 12 feet in circumference. I asked -for a slip as a memento, and it was graciously given to me. Fairlawn -now belongs to Mr. R. Gale, who has a nice dairy, with all the latest -improvements, stables and stockyards. As much as 380 lb. of butter, -from 60 cows, is made weekly by the Laval cream separator, worked by -horse-power. This part of the beautiful country is so noted for its fine -milch-cows that there would be great scope for a large butter factory, -since real nice country butter is seldom to be obtained in Perth at any -price; and I am sure housekeepers would hail the advent of fresh pats of -butter from the country with delight. - -Mulberry-trees were loaded with their luscious fruit, and the bees -were hovering around and sipping the sweets from them. Honey is very -plentiful. In some orchards at Busselton there are as many as 130 hives, -yielding four tons of the sweet commodity. - -Mr. J. Bussell’s estate has a singular name, “Cattle Chosen,” and it -was a strange chance that named it so. Mr. Bussell, the oldest settler -in these parts, had taken up land at Augusta, nearer the coast, but was -not entirely pleased with the place, and while driving some cattle to -the Swan Settlement lost one of his cows. On his return journey he saw -cattle-tracks, and following them up found not only the lost cow, but a -beautiful calf also, on the richest pasture he had seen. Considering the -circumstance as an omen of good luck, and delighted with the locality, -he applied to have his grant, 6000 acres, transferred to the Vasse, and -named the place “Cattle Chosen.” The town was afterwards called Busselton -out of respect to his name. - -The homestead of Cattle Chosen is a pleasant place. Willows grow over the -pretty brooks and white bridges. An avenue of palm-trees leading to the -house, and an old cannon in the garden in front of it, add romance to the -scene. I was shown some marvellous ears of wheat grown by Mr. Tanner near -here, 12 inches long by 8 inches round; also cabbages 12 lb. in weight. -Tomatoes grow by the ton, and as to potatoes, 11 tons have been taken off -one patch of two acres. There is some swamp land near Busselton which it -is said would produce as many potatoes as the whole of Ireland. - -In Mr. Pries’ orchard apples and pears load the trees so heavily—some of -the trees yielding 16 cases of fruit each—that the boughs actually break -beneath the weight. Wax models of some of the pears grown here are to -be seen at the office of the Agricultural Bureau, St. George’s Terrace, -Perth. - -The children on the beach and in the flowery meadows seemed to revel in -their play, and their healthy faces and merry laughter proclaimed that -doctors were not required. No wonder they looked so well, with such a -beautiful place to live in! The summer temperature is never over 100°, -and the winters are mild. With the ample supply of milk, butter, eggs, -fruit, and other good things, the lives of these children are cast in a -pleasant place. - -Mr. Locke, the member for the district, has a great racing-stable at -Lockville, and several horses are training for the coming races. I -admired the beautiful creatures very much. Several of them have already -won important races. Mr. Locke has also many dogs, which have taken -prizes at various shows; he is further well known as one of the best -judges of horseflesh in the colony, and the breeding of bloodstock is -carried on extensively on his estate. - -The recreation-ground is a very level ground of 20 acres, and sport of -all kind is carried on there. Near the fine new bridge is the pretty -English church, covered with ivy, with the peaceful God’s Acre adjoining -it. St. Mary’s Catholic Church, served by that genial and benevolent -parish priest, Father Tracey, is near. Busselton, in addition to its -agricultural capabilities, offers a good opening for the timber business, -and one gentleman, Mr. Porritt, late of Queensland, who has settled -there, with the intention of developing this trade, has obtained a lease -of the Ballarat tramline, and purchased two sawmills, as well as taking -up 60,000 acres of forest land. Employment will thus be given to a great -many men, so emigrants will be welcome. - -Tin has been found close to Busselton, at Quindalup, and as water is -plentiful close by, profit to the district is likely to arise from the -discovery. - -The morning sun was shining in all its splendour over the fair River -Vasse when the driver of the four-in-hand mail-coach cried, “All aboard!” -I climbed to the box-seat, and with a crack of the driver’s whip off we -went. The day was beautiful; the air was exhilarating, and after the -50-mile journey to Karridale I felt inclined for a good dinner. Luckily -I had supplied myself with sandwiches and sherry, or should not have -fared too well. As the journey is nearly all through the bush, one must -not expect to find luxuries in the way of provisions. The scenery and -country we passed through satisfied my eye and soul, but after four hours -in the coach I began to feel that the cravings of the material inner -woman required satisfying also, and was very glad of the little basket -that had been prepared for me. The peppermint-trees growing by the road -are very pretty. These graceful trees grow in thickets, are very shady, -and give a pungent scent. We passed many homesteads on our way, and right -in the middle of the forest a large brick building loomed up. I thought -at first it was a church, but found it was the Newtown Agricultural -Hall. There are no people living about it now, but I suppose there will -be a settlement some day, and Newtown is evidently taking time by the -forelock. When I saw the first karri-tree I was surprised. Without doubt -it is the handsomest kind of tree in the colony. It over-tops all the -other trees, towering to the sky, with delicate feathery leaves, and the -huge trunk, as straight as a mast, is covered by white smooth bark. Some -of these trees are known to reach great heights—as much, indeed, as 400 -feet. Captain Pemberton Walcott is stated to have measured one whose -circumference was 60 feet. I did not see any quite as large as that, but -they certainly looked gigantic. - -On approaching Karridale we passed the racecourse and cricket-ground, -where several lads were at play. This spot is singularly picturesque, -and the district is one of the oldest in the colony. (Augusta, where -the trees grow to 400 feet high, is 11 miles from Karridale, and is the -site of one of the earliest settlements in 1826, but it has never been a -favourite place, and has been abandoned several times.) The magnificent -forest trees await the woodman’s axe; life and industry are everywhere; -the people are like busy bees. I was agreeably surprised to find such a -large township. It is a regular little colony of itself, right away in -one corner of the continent of which we are so justly proud. - -[Illustration: DAVIES’ KARRIDALE TIMBER STATION] - -Karridale is the headquarters of Mr. Davies’ Karri and Jarrah Mill -Company, and 18 years ago was an impenetrable forest. Mr. Davies has -42,000 acres leased from the Government for 42 years from 1882, and the -mill was started in that year amid many difficulties that have been -overcome only by much perseverance. To-day the settlement is a credit to -Mr. Davies and to the colony, and there is a population of 800 persons -dependent on the estate for their living. There is a good post-office, -through which last year the sum of £2340 was remitted; 3700 telegrams -were sent, and 15,000 letters were posted; all the result of the energy -and enterprise of the gentleman above mentioned, who is assisted by his -handsome sons. The Government now derives a revenue of £5000 per year -from this district. Many of the employées have pretty gardens by their -cottages, which are dotted about the bush in most picturesque fashion. -The single men have rows of cottages to themselves, and there is a large -dining-room built for their use, presided over by a good housekeeper, -and as house-rent is free, and there are no rates or taxes to pay, this -seems to me to be a paradise for the working community. Any article -that a civilised being requires is obtainable here; you might almost -say, from a needle to an anchor. A large store adjoins the office, and -although it is a private agency, settlers in the district also can get -their supplies there. There is a nice hall for entertainments, which are -often got up by the people, and a ball is one of the frequent recreations -in the winter-time. A handsome little church has just been built, which -we observed when coming into the settlement. Moreover, there is the -unusual institution of a hospital for horses, of which there are 200 -in the place. A hospital for the people is being built, but everybody -looks so very healthy that I think it will be almost a superfluity. Two -market-gardens and orchards give one an idea of the splendid productivity -of the soil. Ten tons of potatoes per acre, and apple-trees that yield -seven cases each, are quite usual. There is plenty of good grass, and -the bullocks of the estate, 300 in number, live entirely on it, without -artificial food, which means a large saving, and they look splendidly -fat and strong. Mr. Davies was the first man to introduce karri timber -into the markets of the world, and now the company send supplies of it -through England, China, Egypt, India, South Africa, Mauritius, and all -the eastern colonies. Melbourne has patronised karri timber largely. -For wood-blocks it has great strength, and has been proved by British -Admiralty tests to be equal to English oak. The floors of the art gallery -and museum in Melbourne are laid with karri-wood, and in London, Pall -Mall, Piccadilly, and Regent Street have lately been paved with karri -blocks. A log cut over 40 years ago was presented by Mr. Davies to the -Kew Museum. It had been in the ocean 30 years, and is now as good as when -first cut. Karri-wood has the further advantage of not being slippery, -a very essential point in wood-blocks. The karri is an exceptionally -quick-growing tree, and when the matured trees are cut down the young -trees shoot up at once. All the latest improvements are to be found at -Karridale, electric lighting and a telephone service running to the port -and to the lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin. Mr. Davies has a very handsome -house, built in bungalow style. - -[Illustration: Felling the Giant Karri] - -Taking a seat one morning, by invitation, in the inspection-car, with -its comfortable seats, I started for a tour through the forest to the -adjoining mills at Baranup, where a great many men are employed, and -where there is another little place, more evidences of happiness and -prosperity, and more little cottages nestling among the trees. In -the butcher’s shop I saw an enormous block, the complete section of -a tremendous tree. Seeing a strange lady on the car, the men looked -somewhat surprised, but quite pleased. I wished to see the felling of one -of the kings of the forest, upon which four men were then engaged, two -at each end of the cross-saw. It takes six to fell one of these giants, -and when it is coming down one needs to stand “off the grass,” as the -saying is. When felled, the tree is marked off into certain lengths and -severed into so many logs, then numbers of horses and bullocks appear on -the scene and drag the logs to the nearest landing, then they are put -into the truck and borne off to the mill. At Baranup I was to see the -King Karri that I had heard about before coming, and now, when I saw it, -I was satisfied that, although not yet 400 feet high, it is a king of the -forest; indeed, this giant tree is the largest on indisputable record -in Western Australia. It stands in its great majesty in one of the most -picturesque spots of the colony. Its gnarled and weather-beaten roots of -immense size show that it must be of great age. Its dimensions were given -to me by Mr. Davies, and are as follows: - - Girth 4 ft. above ground 30 ft. 8 in. - ” 6 ft. 2 in. ” 28 ft. 1 in. - ” 132 ft. 6 in. ” 20 ft. 7 in. - Height to top of branches 342 ft. 0 in. - ” first fork 146 ft. 0 in. - -This tree would make 146 loads of timber and cut up into 3000 sleepers, -enough to lay a mile and a half of railway. Around here are many more -tremendous giant trees awaiting the woodman’s axe. The demand for Western -Australia hardwood is now far greater than the mills can at present -supply. - -[Illustration: THE SAND PATCH] - -Hamelin Harbour was another surprise. Next morning I proceeded on an -excursion to that place, the train taking a quantity of wood-blocks for -Melbourne streets. A mile and a half on our journey we arrived at the top -of Hamelin Hill. A perfect panorama lay around us; the forest was at our -back, while in front lay the Southern Ocean in all its grandeur, with -little bays and headlands falling into its depths. The pier at Hamelin -Bay, which is seen in the distance, a mile and a half off, is 1800 feet -long. As we approached the bay, the homes of the people employed there -and a charming little lake at the bottom of the valley, with Mr. Davies -yacht and several pretty boats lying at rest on its placid bosom, added -fresh charm to the scene. Arrived at Hamelin Bay, I took a walk down the -long jetty, and the salt seabreeze from both Indian and Southern Oceans -fanned my cheeks with a breath so fresh and bracing that I almost felt as -if I had wings to my feet. Two large vessels were being loaded; the men -seemed to be vying with each other in the effort to do the most work. Two -very large and rather dangerous-looking rocks are not far off the jetty. -I think one is called Mushroom Rock, and certainly it looks more like a -huge mushroom than anything else but a rock. The other is Peak Rock. At -one of the cottages the wife of one of the men was most hospitable, and -made me a nice cup of tea and some toast, which I enjoyed after my early -morning’s start. - -On my return to Karridale, having some time to spare, I drove out about -a mile to see the Sand Patch, which is a most peculiar place. It is a -tremendous sandhill 100 feet high, a few miles from the sea, and has -slowly moved inland a few inches every year. Tops of trees may be seen -over the summit, looking like bushes. It is 2 miles wide, and can be seen -a long way off at sea. Many sea-captains take their bearings from it. An -attempt has been made to arrest its march by planting 70,000 grass roots -in the direction it takes, so as to stop its advance, but whether the -attempt will succeed will only be proved by time. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - - Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape Leeuwin. - - -The Deepdene Caves were my next place of call, Mr. Bruce kindly driving a -party of us to them, and explaining everything to us in a most agreeable -fashion. I enjoyed the drive so much that I was almost sorry to arrive. -The approach to the caves is through a deep dell, where there is a brook, -called Turner’s Brook. A very quaint old house stood on a slope, and -the high cliffs in the distance looked picturesque. But I could see no -sign of a cave, and when we came to a stop I was still looking for one. -However, Mr. Bruce soon stopped the trap, and we got out and were guided -by him through some dense bush up the hill until we came to a yawning -gulf, like a gigantic chasm. I own to feeling a desire to turn back, -without seeing the caves at all, so forbidding did the approach look, -but pride came to the rescue. It would never do to say I was afraid, -so assuming a valour, though I had it not, I followed my guides, who -had now lit candles and also armed themselves with bundles of blackboy -rushes. We entered the cavern, and I found the chasm not so terrible as -I had anticipated. The first large gallery once had a number of fine -stalactites, but some vandals have torn them away. The path now became -very steep, and I had to cling to jutting stalactites. It was very dark, -the candles had gone out, and the vapours we breathed were not exactly -refreshing; but I had to go on—on—on. I was not sorry when my friends -set light to the friendly blackboys and lightened the darkness. We were -now in a splendid hall, roofed with icicles. There was an almost perfect -opera-box, with lace curtains, carved arm-rest, pillars, and everything -complete. The ground sounded rather hollow; I did not feel comfortable, -so we moved on to another vast cavern, called the King’s Council Chamber. -It was a grand sight. The light, of course, was imperfect, as the cave -is of enormous size, fully 100 feet high. The stalactites hang from the -domed roof like huge crystal lights, and shadows play about the walls, -which look as if festooned with lovely lace. Great seats seem to fill the -cavern in the middle. One could almost imagine a king and queen holding -court there, with all their attendants, and being suddenly turned to -marble. It was all very grand, but I felt glad when I was out in God’s -sunshine again, with the blue sky over my head and the blue sea at my -feet. Darkness and gloom, however grand, do not forcibly appeal to me. - -Various other beautiful caves have been discovered comparatively -recently, and named the Margaret Caves, in compliment to Lady Forrest. - -No beaver ever made a more artful concealment of the entrance to his nest -than the lip of the Wallcliffe Cave. Part some peppermints, push aside -the flowing fronds of ferns and bend low, almost on all-fours, creep -slowly for 30 feet, eyes bent to ground, and then, what a transformation -scene! The fairy grotto of a pantomime, the lustrous lair of the King of -Jewels in the Arabian Nights—these are the only similes that give even a -prosaic idea of it. A circular chamber, richly bedecked by gleaming white -stalactites, with mammoth bunches of grapes, fleecy wefts apparently as -soft as lambs-wool, but solid as marble, and—upspringing from the floor -of the chamber, as if greedy to clutch the fruit, yet frozen in making -the grasp—a monstrous hand several feet long—these are just hints of what -we see. - -[Illustration: A WESTERN AUSTRALIAN CAVE] - -The Warrawerrie or Blackboy Hollow Cave is about 2 miles south of -Wallcliffe, and is a mantrap for the unwary, for if you fall in instead -of using the ladder that the discoverer (Mr. John Bussell) made in order -to sound his find, and was thoughtful enough to leave behind him, you -drop 15 feet. This vertical hole will not take in any one of very round -proportions. So rough and high are the boulders that we scrambled over -on the floor of this cave by the dim, flickering light of a candle, -that we called it “Spion Kop.” It was more than worth the scramble, -however. There is another chamber of this cave that has never been -entered. A broken column, apparently cut from Italian marble, as pure -as alabaster, would make a noble monument for a patriot. There are also -semi-transparent shields which look like snow-white tapestry from an -Indian loom, but which touch shows to be hard as flint. - -While all the caves we saw are worth many times the journey, the most -beautiful is, in my opinion, that known as Doodjijup, a mile south of -Blackboy Hollow, and 100 feet above the slanderously entitled “Devil’s -Pool.” A lady could go through this cave without soiling her dress. You -enter this lovely “bower” from the side of a high limestone ridge and the -commanding situation allows a pretty prospect of water and lea, with the -shimmering streak of the Doodjijup brook in the foreground. The access -to the cave is rather steep and somewhat rugged, but when once the inlet -is gained the labour is rewarded, and the visitor can move at ease and -admire the terraces, the columns like the pipes of a cathedral organ, and -the pendants that glow like the stars of night in the three chambers of -this wondrous arcade. - -Nearly 3 miles south there is a descent of about 100 feet, first through -an enormous pit like the excavation of a quarry, and then by the side -of a limestone cliff, when the “door” of Calgadup Cave is disclosed. -The floor of this cave is moist enough to show that it is the bed of a -subterranean creek; it is about 70 feet across. The chamber sides are -hung with many stalactites of myriad shapes and colours under the rays -of our artificial light. What would be taken in a lady’s boudoir for a -very beautiful opera-cloak of swansdown thrown over the top of a low -pillar stands out in the foreground. This is a stalagmite “growing” -upwards, while the stalactite is formed downwards like the tendrils or -fruit of a vine. Here, too, in my opinion, is the gem of all the caves, -the suspended dome, the delicate tracery of whose splendid and fantastic -fretwork hangs in mid-air, held by almost gossamer crystalline threads. - -A running stream which flows over the bed of Crystal Cave, half a mile -south of Nannup Caves, gives it its name. This cave, of sandstone -formation, is almost a ruin owing to the ravages of marauders and the -falling of karri timber overhead, which have wrought havoc among its -former grandeur. Ascending some 50 or 60 feet another vast chamber is -entered; the dome-shaped roof that is set off by colonnades is cracked, -and to all appearance unsafe. Already this season, although there are -few facilities for visiting the caves or for enjoying the fishing and -shooting of Hardy’s Inlet in the cool climate by the seaside, about 70 -goldfield visitors have equipped themselves at special expense for the -tour, which, I understand, they found highly beneficial, interesting and -enjoyable. - -From the caves we returned to Karridale, and during the pleasant drive -I somewhat recovered from the fatigue of so much cave clambering. The -next morning early I was fortunate in getting a seat in a buggy to Cape -Leeuwin, the first Australian land sighted by mail-boats coming from -England, and the last seen by those that leave for the dear homeland. -I was anxious to see this place and to go up the famous lighthouse. -So off we went, bidding a regretful farewell to the hospitable people -of Karridale. We had a drive of 16 miles before us, but I am never so -happy as when seated behind a good pair of horses and spinning merrily -along. I feel sure that, though thousands of people have seen the cape -and lighthouse from the sea, very few have been so fortunate as I was -in being able to visit it by land. So I felt particularly well pleased -with myself and my trip through the west that day. As we drove along -for 7 miles nothing particular was to be seen, except perhaps that the -forest vegetation seemed to grow more luxuriantly than ever, and in -greater variety; I noticed several kind of trees that I had not seen in -other parts. Then we got occasional gleams of water shining through the -foliage, and the hills around loomed in grandeur to the sky. The trees -seemed to become smaller as we went along; that was because we were -near the coast. A few miles farther on a pretty house on the banks of a -lovely broad sheet of water, the Blackwood estuary, came into view. A -lady, seeing us driving along, came out to meet us, and cordially invited -us into the house to partake of refreshments in the shape of fruit and -fresh milk with hot scones, which had just been baked for the family -lunch, and of which we had arrived in time to partake. The horses were -glad of a little breathing-time, during which I looked round at the scene -before me. Over the broad sheet of placid water wild ducks and swans were -dotted. A fisherman had just come up with a haul of fish, the finest -whiting I have seen for some time, and a tremendous schnapper. In the -distance could be seen the white sandy bar, with its long white breakers -stretching out into the depths of the ocean beyond. What an ideal spot -for a sportsman, a convalescent, or a pair of honeymooners, so quiet, -so peaceful, so beautiful! Mr. Ellis has lived in this place for years, -and will tell you how, 50 years ago, food was almost unobtainable, and -American whalers were looked to for nearly all supplies. It is most -interesting to talk to this gentleman. Governor Broome, Governor Weld, -and Sir Gerard Smith (the late Governor), have visited this place, and -enjoyed Mr. Ellis’s hospitality. We soon passed through the old and once -ill-fated settlement of Augusta, and I wondered why fate was so unkind -to such a charming spot, especially as there is such a natural harbour -as Flinders Bay close by. On we went and reached Point Matthew. Now we -were near the corner where two great oceans meet. On we drove to the -edge of the peninsula and soon arrived at Cape Leeuwin, and its fine -lighthouse. In 1867 the coast east of Cape Leeuwin was called Nuyts Land -from a passenger on board the _Guilde Zeepart_, or Good Shepherd, on her -voyage to Japan. Cape Leeuwin, or Lioness, was so named in 1822, after -the vessel from which it was first seen, or, as others say, because the -cape standing at the corner of the two oceans, with the breakers dashing -round, seemed like a lioness defending her home. Be this as it may, I -came here, and was delighted. Years ago, during a heavy storm, I was a -passenger in a sailing barque loaded with pearl shell that was blown out -to sea 600 miles beyond Cape Leeuwin, but we safely weathered the storm -and I live to tell the tale. Since that time I have always had strong -recollections of this particular cape. - -As we drove up the lighthouse stood before us like a sentinel guarding -the seas. We were now on that corner of our continent where the Indian -and Southern Oceans meet. Right on the southern point at the foot of the -high bare hills, and 700 feet above the sea, stands the white lighthouse -and its shining dome, the building of which was an event of national -importance. It was a solemn and magnificent sight. To-day the sea was -beautifully calm, but sometimes the breakers roar and lash the strong -lighthouse in their fury; then mariners have to beware of the Lioness -and to keep at a safe and civil distance. The base is 70 feet above -high water-mark, the foundations are deep down to bed rock, 23 feet. -The building was erected by Messrs. Davies and Wishart, and cost £6000, -exclusive of the dome and light. The handsome white stone of which it -is built was all quarried half a mile away. The walls are 7 feet in -thickness on the ground-floor. To get to the top we had to mount a spiral -iron staircase, broken at intervals by 7 floors. These breaks give one -time to breathe and comment on the peculiar sensation of mounting to -the top of a lighthouse; strange it is certainly, but I would not on -any account have missed it. A heavy iron column goes down the centre to -hold the chain and the three-quarters of a ton weight propelling the -clockwork that causes the light to revolve. It takes 7 gallons of oil -each night to keep this burning. Mr. Tattersall, the head keeper, was -most attentive and kind in explaining all this to me. On the fifth floor -is the telephone connected with the men’s quarters and with the Karridale -Post Office, from which all messages are forwarded by telegraph. Here -also observations are taken every two hours and recorded. Down the wall -there is a lightning conductor. The lighting apparatus is on the sixth -floor, and is a wonderful piece of mechanical work. The operative power -is clockwork, and the light reflected is equal to 250,000 candles. The -flash is sighted fully 30 miles out from land on a clear night. Are -not the improvements in lighthouses since the days when little Grace -Darling stood on her bible to reach the lamp that lighted the shipwrecked -mariners to safety truly wonderful? - -[Illustration: LIGHTHOUSE (OLD AND NEW)] - -I must confess to feeling very giddy in the head when I stepped on the -balcony outside the dome, but it was the grandest sight of my tour. On -the north side was Hamelin Bay, on the east the mouth of the beautiful -Blackwood, and the many little islands, reefs and rocks, lying at our -feet; also Cumberland Island; while away on the land side stretches the -vast forest with its millions of giant trees, combining to form a picture -not easily forgotten. - -The lighthouse-keepers, of whom there are six, work four hours each and -are then relieved. They report every ship that passes, and wind up the -clockwork weights every hour. Coming down to _terra firma_ again, and -before leaving this grand piece of man’s work, I read the following -inscription on a huge block of stone: “Foundation-stone laid by Sir John -Forrest, Premier of the Colony, 13th December 1895.” And on the other -side: “Dedicated to the World’s Mariners, 10th December 1896.” - -Outside are some comfortable-looking stone cottages, where the -lighthouse-keepers live. My only feeling of regret as I left was that -Leeuwin Lighthouse is not more accessible, so that many people could take -the same enjoyable tour that I had taken; but time may change even this -cape’s inaccessibility. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - - Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The - Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The - Show. - - -There is without doubt a great field in Western Australia for workers -who will settle on the land and cultivate it. Newcastle is a little -town, nestling at the foot of hills and beautifully situated near the -Avon river. It is a splendid farming district; the soil will grow almost -everything. I saw some magnificent oranges and vegetables. The cattle are -as fat and sleek as can be. Rain had been falling when I was there, and -now the sun was shining and a beautiful rainbow rose over the hills. The -pink everlasting flowers—acres of them—surrounded by the green grass, the -pretty winding river, the white bridges and long good roads made up a -very pleasant picture. There is plenty of good land around here waiting -to be taken up and utilised. Newcastle is one of the oldest Westralian -towns, and the roads and bridges were nearly all made by convict labour -in days gone by. There is a great quantity of stone lying about, and -granite is obtainable in large quantities a little way off. There are -vineyards and orchards, and an elderly woman at the Clackline Junction -Station seemed to be doing a good trade with an enormous basket of -splendid oranges and bunches of pink everlasting flowers. She came across -the meadows and joined the train at Delmore on the way to Newcastle a boy -helping her with the big basket of oranges just gathered from the trees. -She told me she came to meet all the trains and invariably did good -business. - -[Illustration: NEWCASTLE] - -Gold was found about here in 1887 by Mr. Glass, of Mugakine, who found a -piece weighing 11 grains while digging a well. The ground about the hills -is very rocky, but the flats are fertile and favourable for fruit-trees -and vines, and there is plenty of water in ponds; Mr. Clarkson, in the -early days, found sandstone ranges rising 1000 feet; small rivers fall -between these ranges into the sea. - -New Norcia, the Benedictine’s Mission settlement, is situated on the -Victoria plains, about 50 miles from Newcastle by road, and 80 miles to -the north of Perth. You can also go to New Norcia by taking the train -to Mogumbur on the Cue line, and thence driving 15 miles to New Norcia. -Here the late good Bishop Salvado, laboured amongst the aboriginals for -over half a century, and died at over 85. The religious community numbers -about 60 monks, most of whom are Spanish. The Abbey is called Abbey -Nullias, and there are a cruciform church of stone, a monastery, and 51 -other buildings. Over 1000 acres of land are cleared and fenced, 800 are -under cultivation, and 150 aboriginals are clothed and educated by the -monks. The object of these good men of the Mission is to civilise and -christianise the natives. Bishop Salvado describes his first interview -with the aboriginals thus: “I tried to begin a conversation by signs -with these poor Australians, so hideous to view, though mild and almost -timid; but all that they would say was ‘Maragna’ (food).” In 1846, Father -Salvado and Father Serra, with a few catechists, were guided by some -natives to the site which is now called New Norcia. Fifty acres of land -had been granted them by the Colonial Government, and thus was laid the -foundation of this now well-known and flourishing settlement. In 1848 -the first R.C. Bishop of Perth, Dr. Brady, sent Father Serra to Europe -to obtain subscriptions and more missionaries for New Norcia, and 1250 -acres of land were purchased by him with the collections obtained in this -way from Europe. In 1849 Father Salvado went to Europe, taking with him -two native Christian boys. There he collected large sums of money, and on -his return a number of missionaries, competent in agriculture and trade, -returned with him, thus giving new life to the Mission, where they built -a chapel, cottages, corn and granary mills, wooden houses, workshops, -and quarters for natives. The land was soon cleared by these good and -energetic men, assisted by the aborigines whom they had befriended, and -to-day one can look around the Mission and see happiness, prosperity, and -contentment on all sides. All the aborigines now there are civilised, -but, for years before they became so, they looked on the Bishop as a god -who possessed superhuman knowledge, especially in doctoring the sick. One -native whom he had relieved leaped and danced, and shouted war-cries, -and said: “Father, when you die I shall be so sorry that I shall kill, -not only one man of the enemy’s tribe, but six kangaroo-hunters, to show -everybody the love I have for you.” Many years have passed away, and -if you now visit New Norcia you will see 1000 acres of fields, stocked -with sheep and cattle; a most prosperous agricultural settlement; corn -in abundance; barley, hay, vegetables, tobacco, and acres of vineyard, -from which a wine, said by those who have sampled it to be excellent, is -made. Fine olives are grown; olive oil, pure and clear, is made; candied -almonds, figs, raisins, grapes, and apples are in profusion. The Bishop’s -only luxury was snuff, grown at the Mission, which is very aromatic and -provocative of much sneezing. Almost everything required and used is -made and produced on the spot. The aborigines learn quickly and are most -devout Christians. The Mission has a brass band of natives, who have been -well trained, and their efforts are most pleasing. - -Bishop Salvado was in Perth a few months ago, and received a warm welcome -from all creeds and classes; he was then on his way to Rome, in which -city he recently passed away. - -Progressive Northam, the gateway of the goldfields, in the lovely Avon -Valley, was the scene of my next visit. The green undulating fields -through which I passed in the train on my approach to Northam showed a -perfect blaze of wild flowers in every spot where there was room for -them to spring between the well-cultivated farm lands. The rich soil -of this beautiful valley is quite different from the deep sandy soil -near the coast, or from the loam and ironstone of the ranges of the -Darling. Quantities of water are always obtainable by shallow sinking, -should other supplies fail. The fat cattle always seem to be waiting -to accumulate wealth for their owners, and the comfortable-looking -farmhouses impress one with the idea of solid comfort within. Northam -has a population of 2000 people, is increasing fast, and prospering more -than any other agricultural district in Western Australia; and being the -starting-point of the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, Mount Malcolm and -Mount Margaret goldfields, is really the threshold of the fields, as well -as the great centre of the agricultural industry in this part of the -colony. - -A large staff of railway men is employed in the locomotive department, -over 400 men being paid every fortnight at Northam. The railway platform -is half a mile long, and I believe a magnificent railway station will -shortly further improve the town. - -Northam has gone ahead with gigantic strides. On my first visit, a little -over two years ago, it was a very small place indeed, in fact two places, -as I found to my sorrow when I got out of the train at the wrong station -(there are both East and West Northam) and had to walk a mile and a half -up a desolate country road to get to my destination. Now houses, shops, -banks, &c., are built nearly all along that road, and omnibuses ply from -one end of the town to the other. Northam bids fair to become one of the -most important towns in Western Australia. - -There are some charming estates about here, notably that of the Hon. -George Throssell, late Commissioner of Crown Lands, and now Premier -since Sir John Forrest relinquished office. Mr. Throssell might almost -be described as the father of Northam. He has resided in what he so -poetically describes as his lovely valley home for 36 years, and it is -chiefly due to his strenuous exertions, the devotion of his energies to -its development, and his manly spirit of help to all, that Northam is -what it is to-day. Mr. Throssell goes home to Northam after his week’s -official work every Friday and remains until Tuesday in the company -of his wife and numerous and happy family of sons, daughters, and -grandchildren. This grand old man has a large and important business in -Northam in conjunction with Mr. Stewart, and branches in different parts -of the colony as well. The machinery stores are well worth inspection. -Every possible kind of English and American machinery for tilling the -soil is here to be seen. The drill and fertiliser now coming into use -make farming a pastime and pleasure, instead of the weariness and hard -work of past ages. With these new implements of agriculture, 600 acres of -land can be drilled with only 20 lb. of wheat to the acre, in place of 75 -lb., as in olden days. - -Many new implements were going out to the Jenapullen ploughing-match, -a few miles away, for trial that day; so, availing myself of the offer -of a drive there, I started off to see this match. The pastoral country -appeared very thriving as we drove along by the beautiful River Avon, and -the richness of the soil gave ample promise of the harvest to come. Bush -flowers were growing all round, native grasses were flourishing in wild -luxuriance, healthy green crops were waving in the gentle breeze, giving -promise of a most abundant yield and adding beauty to the surrounding -scene. - -On arrival at the ploughing-field, I found many kinds of entertainments -going on as well as the ploughing, which I was sure was very splendid, -although I did not understand the art. There was a fine collection of -vegetables, bread, butter, fruit, and many other things; also some very -splendid horses, bred in the district. After the ploughing-match was -over, the folks amused themselves with jumping, running, and pony races. -Every one looked prosperous, happy and contented, and no doubt was so, -for there are many well established farmers in this fertile district, who -long ago secured for themselves a position of independence. - -[Illustration: AVON RIVER] - -What a future lies before this wheat-growing district! One of the most -prominent townsmen of Northam says that more wheat has been produced -there than in any other part of the colony. Many farmers are also -thinking of raising pigs, to be turned into the toothsome bacon. Mr. -Throssell told me that there are big openings for bacon-curing, as the -quantity of bacon and ham imported to Western Australia last year was -very large. - -The Department of Agriculture is doing good work, and experts are sent -out into the different farming districts to teach the benefits of mixed -farming to persons not already acquainted with them, and any one who -wants advice on the management of vineyards, orchards and farms can, by -writing to the Department, have an expert sent at once. - -There is also scope for the establishment of a butter and cheese factory -here. This valley of the Avon is an ideal spot for a large dairy, and -might have thousands of sleek cows grazing on the rich pastures, and -hundreds of rosy-cheeked dairymaids turning sweet cream into butter and -cheese for the dusty goldseekers. - -Northam has a fine town hall, some handsome churches, a convent, -magnificent post-office, and many beautiful mansions and villas standing -in fine grounds with nice gardens. Many of the favourite English flowers -flourish here. Roses, honeysuckle, geraniums, and mignonette grow very -fine in this soil, and the flowers indigenous to the colony bloom in -sweet and infinite variety. The splendour of Western Australian flowers -cannot be imagined by those who have not seen it. Their dainty delicate -odours are unsurpassable, and if people in other lands only knew of our -glorious wealth of flowers, I am sure they would be anxious to obtain -seeds and cultivate the lovely blossoms. - -Coming from one of the splendid homesteads around Northam, I passed a -wheatfield in the valley that extended farther than my eye could reach. -Oats grow to perfection. One farmer in the valley, who has a field of 90 -acres, last year harvested as much as 36 bushels to the acre; barley is -also grown with great success. - -Our young country has a chance of great and lasting prosperity for -population increases and new people settle on the rich lands to cultivate -them. Mr. Throssell says: “We look forward to seeing our harbour filled -with ships laden with not only gold, timber, pearl shell and wool -products of the colony, but also with golden grain, wine and fruit.” Our -Agent-General in London, Sir E. Wittenoom, recently said at a dinner in -Paris: “There is something fascinating in the phenomena of the rise of -this new colony of Western Australia, which 10 years ago, with an area -equal to nearly half that of Europe, had only the population of the Isle -of Man. Gold reefs were discovered, and the population advanced with -great strides in less than 4 years from 50,000 to 186,000.” - - - - -[Illustration: Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - - Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking - on Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato - Ground—Bayley’s Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great - Boulder Find—The Londonderry. - - -Lake Polaris, or Southern Cross, was so called by the Phœnix party of -prospectors, who, owing to an accidental discovery of gold by Mr. Ansty -at Mugakine in 1887, determined thoroughly to prospect the country from -Newcastle and the Yilgarn hills. Their first discovery of payable reefs -was named Golden Valley, and, as would be supposed from the name, the -reefs were rich. Travelling by night, guided by the Southern Cross, the -party went on, and 30 miles farther on found reefs still richer on the -site of what is now called Southern Cross. Two of the prospectors were -eventually lost in the Bush, and their mates, taking a black fellow for -tracking, followed their tracks, mostly in circles, for 30 miles, and at -last found the two poor fellows dead, doubtless from thirst, as they were -without clothing, which is always a sign of that terrible death. - -Southern Cross was destined to become in a short time a most important -place in Australian history, although it did not become the talk of the -world, as Coolgardie afterwards did. It was from Southern Cross that the -news of the magnificent discovery of Bayley’s Reward and the other rich -finds at Coolgardie came. From the time when Mr. Colreavy, of the Phœnix -party, first found Golden Valley until now, the finds of gold on the -Coolgardie goldfields have been without parallel in Australian history. -Fraser’s Mine, Southern Cross, paid the first dividend received from any -mine in Western Australia. Captain Oats, one of the most genial men in -the West, is the legal manager for Fraser’s Mine. - -When the train came to a stop on our arrival at the Cross, as it is now -usually called, I must confess that I was not much attracted by the -appearance of the place, for anything more dreary-looking one could not -well see. Imagine a sandy desert, with here and there a stunted-looking -tree, a string of camels, with Afghan guides, some bare-looking houses, -and a few mines with poppet-heads standing out like crosses against the -sky. That is Southern Cross. The train stops at 7 A.M. for 40 minutes for -breakfast, and, after travelling from five o’clock the previous night, -one feels inclined for hot coffee at least. I hurried across to the -hotel, and after partaking of a really excellent breakfast, felt a little -more friendly to the place, and had my luggage taken off the train with -the intention of stopping here a day to make inquiries. After a two-hours -rest I started off to see Fraser’s Mine, and then found that I had to -walk half a mile in order to reach the town, the part where the hotel is -being only the railway portion of it. Across flat uninteresting ground -affording very scanty herbage to a few grazing goats, I came at last to -the town proper, which is one fairly long street and two cross ones, of -little houses and shops. I here presented my letter of introduction to -the mayor, who, with his wife, was most hospitable; and, in fact, I found -that, in spite of the dreary-looking surroundings, Southern Cross was -not a bad place after all, and that there were a great many nice genial -people living there. Fraser’s Mine is another two miles on. Nothing -much is to be seen, but close to the mine is a small empty house. It -is the house formerly inhabited by the notorious Deeming (who murdered -and cemented three wives and four children), in which he had stored -the cement in readiness for a new grave for his next wife when he was -stopped by his arrest. I looked inside with a kind of morbid interest, -remembering well the stir there was in Melbourne at the time when this -terrible man committed his last awful crime. - -When one thinks of the hardships people had to endure when gold was -first discovered in this desert, and when water was scarce and food -still more so, one feels that they deserved all the money and gold they -got.[2] It then took four days to get to the Cross from York and Northam, -and the Bush roads were terrible. One party of fifty Victorian miners -started from Albany on foot, on what was known as Holland’s Track, and -after undergoing terrible privations, 35 of them reached the Cross in -safety. Holland’s Track is so called from the following circumstances: -John Holland and party set out from Brown Hill, 103 miles from Albany, -to reach Coolgardie _viâ_ Southern Cross, the distance being nearly 350 -miles. They paid £50 for three horses and a conveyance. Their road was -through an almost impenetrable bush. Holland’s way of finding the road -was to ride ahead, the team having instructions to follow his tracks. He -then made observations from the highest points, and was enabled to judge -many miles ahead the nature of the country before him and the probable -whereabouts of water. In this respect he was singularly successful. He -would then take his bearings, retrace his tracks, and lead the team -in as direct a line as possible to the place. The length of the track -cut was 230 miles. The greatest portion of this was through country -unexplored, and 130 miles were traversed without encountering tracks of -any description, save that of an occasional emu. There were many high -granite rocks in the country, one of such height and extent—200 feet—that -they named it King Rock. On investigation a splendid supply of water was -found on the top of this, and at the base there is a salt-water lake 2 -miles in circumference. - -Another party started overland from Adelaide to the Western Australian -goldfields, and went through hardships that can be better imagined than -described. The course taken was from Port Augusta along the west coast to -Israelite Bay, thence to Fraser Range and Southern Cross. The track ran -through dense forests and sand plains, where little exists save stunted -herbage, which not even a camel could eat, every bush on these plains -being armed with thorns. The party camped about 6 miles from Southern -Cross on the only decent patch of pasture for 100 miles. - -A Bendigo miner, with his party, started from Narrogin, beyond Broome -Hill, for Southern Cross. After going 15 miles they got bogged twice -on the road, the horses being in the bog to their knees and the dray -to the axle. The second time the men had to carry all their things on -their backs. Next day they had to cut away with an axe big trees that -had fallen across the track. Another day they camped 100 miles from the -Cross, and on getting up early found the horses gone. After a long search -of 15 miles, during which time they had nothing to eat, they finally -found them. Next day the party set out again, and after 25 miles the axle -broke and the dray became a total wreck; they then waited coming events, -and luckily a teamster came along and took some of their things. The rest -they had to leave behind. They arrived at Southern Cross after three -weeks travelling. - -[Illustration: TEAMS RETURNED TO SOUTHERN CROSS FROM COOLGARDIE] - -These are a few of the experiences of the early days of the Golden West. -After such experiences Southern Cross, no doubt, seemed an oasis in the -desert. Who will say these poor men did not deserve success? I truly hope -they got it. It was five years after the discovery of Southern Cross that -Coolgardie was discovered by Arthur Bayley, who had formerly been working -at the Cross, but afterwards went to Nannine and took 1000 ounces of -gold from a claim there; then returned to the Southern Cross in 1892, -started from that place prospecting, eventually finding Coolgardie. - -People who were here in 1892 tell me that when the news came of Bayley’s -find the excitement was indescribable. Southern Cross was almost -deserted. Coolgardie lies about 120 miles from the Cross, and along the -track were to be seen men in scores, using every means of locomotion -conceivable. Some were lucky enough to get teamsters to carry their -swags; others had to carry them on their backs; others, again, had -pack-horses; some had what is called a “one-wheeler” cart. The wheel is -fixed underneath, in the centre is a frame or miniature platform, on -which the goods and swags are placed; four men take hold, one at each -corner, and a start is made. One enterprising man pushed in front of him -an ordinary beer cask, which he had rigged up to resemble a miniature -road-roller. His goods were on top and he was in the shafts. Other -adventurous spirits had their goods in wheelbarrows, which they drove -through the heavy sand. Camels sometimes crossed as much as 22 miles of -sand plain at a stretch, getting one meal at the end. As pack-camels only -travel at the rate of 2½ miles an hour, such a journey would occupy the -whole of the daylight, then the Afghan drivers would let the camels lie -down until the moon rose; then on again in search of food, until at 7 in -the morning perhaps they were lucky enough to find some salt-bush on the -shores of a salt lake. - -At the stores at Southern Cross in those days you would see all sorts and -conditions of men coming for their provisions. New chums with white soft -hands would sometimes appear on their way to the goldfields. Those poor -hands would look very different after their owners had put in a month on -the burning sands of the mines. - -The railway to Coolgardie from Southern Cross was begun in 1894 and -opened soon afterwards. - -[Illustration: Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross] - -It was with feelings of curiosity that I viewed the desert-looking -country as the train approached the world-famed place. It is nearly -always in waste, arid, and uninteresting places that gold is found. As -the train drew up at the spacious station and I stepped out on to the -wide platforms, where some hundreds of people were waiting, I looked -round me and said to myself: “Am I really at the famous Coolgardie at -last, the Queen Gold City of the West?” I took a cab—dozens of them were -waiting—and drove to Summers’ Hotel, where apartments had been reserved -for me, and with a sigh of contentment gave myself up to the thought of -thoroughly inspecting this famed place. After a very good dinner, with -white-waistcoated waiters in attendance, and with every elegance and -comfort that could be suggested, I took my coffee on the broad balcony -overlooking Bayley Street. I found several people who were here in the -early days, and who gave me all the information I desired about the past -and the present. The first thing that struck me in Coolgardie was, “What -a splendid lot of men there are here!” They were, indeed, unusually tall, -stalwart, and good-looking. And why not? The pick of the Australian -colonies, the flower of our manhood, were here seeking for gold. Next -I was struck by the fine wide streets, lit with electric light, the -handsome buildings, and, lastly, the beautiful horses to be seen in cabs -or carts, or ridden by horsemen. It is wonderful to view this city of -the Golden West which was so recently a desert of sand, mulga-trees, -and scrub, where an occasional emu or kangaroo was monarch of all he -surveyed; where Sir John Forrest and his party of explorers twice camped, -little dreaming of the wealth of gold lying beneath their feet. - -The facts about the finding of Coolgardie are thus given in Mr. Bayley’s -own narrative: “One morning before breakfast, while going after horses, -I picked up a nugget weighing half an ounce, and before dinner found 20 -more ounces in the same way. We had left Southern Cross three months -previously, prospecting, in consequence of the report of Mr. Hardman, the -Government geologist, who had issued a map showing the places where gold -was most likely to be found, and had not found any gold of consequence -until now. The spot where we made the first find was about 200 miles from -the present Reward Claim. In about a month, by specking and a little dry -blowing, our gold consisted of about 200 ounces. Our rations ran out and -we made tracks to Southern Cross, but went back to the old workings, and -on Sunday afternoon, while fossiking around, we struck the reef. That -evening we picked up about 50 ounces of gold, and on Monday we pegged out -a prospecting area on the reef. That morning a party of three men came on -the scene. They had followed us from Southern Cross. That day we obtained -300 ounces from the cap of the reef. The party who had followed us stole -about 200 ounces from our claim, so we had to report it. For that purpose -I went into the Cross, carrying 554 ounces, which I showed to the Warden. -The field was then declared open. After another two days we collected -another lot of gold, amounting to 528 ounces. I conveyed them to Southern -Cross, and a fortnight after returning to the field had to make another -trip there, escorting 642 ounces. All we found was right on the surface, -and all we did was to knock the stuff out and dolly it with a pestle -and mortar. There were six cartloads of tailings left. After the gold -referred to had been extracted from the quantity of stuff, we obtained a -further amount of 298 ounces. We got a little over 2000 ounces altogether -out of the claim. We only had a five-acre lease of the Reward Claim.” - -The news of the unprecedented richness of Bayley’s Find had long ere -this found its way over the entire world. Shortly after the goldfield -was proclaimed, and when the enormous richness of Bayley’s Reward Claim -was flashed all over the Australian continent, Mr. Sylvester Browne, of -Melbourne, a brother to Mr. T. Browne (better known as Rolf Boldrewood, -author of the famous Australian book, “Robbery under Arms”), travelled -to Coolgardie and, after making an examination of the property, bought -the Reward Claim from Bayley and Ford for £6000 and a sixth share in the -mine. The bargain completed, Mr. Sylvester Browne and some three or four -other gentlemen (mostly connections of his) set to work with their own -hands, and with no other tools but picks, shovels, hammers, and an iron -dolly, extracted the enormous quantity of 9000 ounces, or £36,000 worth -of gold, in a few weeks. On April 8, 1893, a parcel of 2500 ounces, worth -£10,000, arrived in Perth, and was lodged in the Union Bank. Then, on -June 7, 3185 ounces more were received by this bank and exhibited, and -on September 6 a third lot of 3605 ounces were deposited by Mr. Everard -Browne on behalf of Bayley’s Reward Company, and, finally, during the -Christmas holidays, a trophy, valued at £30,000, was gazed upon by -admiring crowds at the office of the bank. The trophy is a stirring -sight. It consists of 7000 ounces of smelted gold and 600 or 700 ounces -of rich quartz specimens, and everybody, from the Governor downwards, has -been to see it. This gold was taken from a depth of only 40 feet, while -some of the biggest nuggets at Ballarat, Victoria, were found more than -1000 feet below the surface. It is now placed beyond all doubt that our -golden reefs are what is termed “permanent,” a fact which pessimists, -both in and out of the colony, have until now been loath to admit. - -[Illustration: BAYLEY’S REWARD MINE—UNDERLAY SHAFT] - -Facts are stubborn things, and an ounce of experience is worth a ton of -theory. Here was a mine which in a few months yielded over,£80,000. The -following is an extract from a Perth newspaper:— - -“The cry from Coolgardie is still of astounding discoveries of such rich -gold-bearing rock as mankind has never known before. There is actually -being exhibited at Counsel’s Stores a lump of gold and stone weighing a -little over two hundredweight, in which, it was estimated by experts, -there was nearly a hundredweight and a half of the precious metal. It -looks as if the time were within reasonable distance when _Punch’s_ old -prophecy would be realised, and the Cheapside hawkers be seen going about -with gold snuff-boxes and a ha’porth of snuff for a penny.” - -One of the prospectors wrote thus: “I left the field at the end of -January last, when things were at their earliest stage, and even then -phenomenal finds were of daily occurrence. I remember one evening -particularly when the whole camp was thrown into a furore of excitement -owing to three men coming in with a gunny sack full of quartz some 60 lb. -in weight (I saw and handled the stone myself), and before the evening -they had dollied 150 ounces from it. At Adams’ Reef, 25 miles north of -Bayley’s, I saw tons of stone on which the gold was sticking in small -nuggets. There was one place we christened the Potato Ground, owing to -the large size of the nuggets picked up there. - -“On Sundays, by way of rest, picks and shovels were abandoned, and almost -every one in the camp went out for an afternoon’s specking (looking on -the ground for nuggets). Before leaving Coolgardie I had the pleasure of -seeing over Bayley’s Reef. I shall never forget the sight; it settled my -career, and I do not think I shall ever follow any avocation but that -of a miner; for there on this reef, instead of, as one usually sees in -an ordinarily rich reef, specks and perhaps here and there nuggets of -gold—on Bayley’s there were veins, in fact, literally outstanding bars of -gold. So much so that if Mr. Bayley had given me leave to do an hour’s -work on it and take the results, my trip to the old country and back to -Western Australia would have cost me nothing, and I warrant I could have -had a pretty good time too.” - -Arthur Bayley did not live long to enjoy the wealth he acquired through -his discovery, as he died at Melbourne in 1897, at the early age of -34 years. Gold-mining will trouble him no more. The handsome city of -Coolgardie remains a monument to his memory. - -Many other reefs had by this time been discovered by various parties at -different distances from Coolgardie, one notably big and rich one at the -90-Mile, called the “Roaring Gimlet.” No stores or provisions lay that -way, consequently great privations had to be endured. However, those who -managed to remain got surprisingly rich stone on the surface. Here the -quartz was quite white and barren looking, but, on sinking, rich alluvial -gold was found at the rate of 250 ounces to the ton. Half-way to the -90-Mile, at what they call the 45-Mile, surprisingly rich results were -also obtained. - -The camp at Bayley’s was at this time a scene of intense excitement; 3000 -men were on the field. Such a collection of habitations was never before -seen—blanket-shelters, bush-humpies, and tents covered the ground; men -were digging, specking, dry blowing, and knapping every bit of available -quartz. Then provisions and water got scarce; famine was feared, and many -of the miners had to move on. “Water, water, everywhere, but not a drop -to drink.” Many a poor parched prospector on the weary tramp has said -this, and many explorers in this vast country have given the same cry. No -water—this is the terror of the Australian desert, more deadly than wild -beasts or savages in other countries. As the dragon in olden days guarded -the gate of the Hesperides wherein grew the golden apples, so thirst, -famine and fever seemed at first to guard Nature’s treasure-house. -Civilisation and engineering have now greatly diminished these terrors, -and in the new Eldorado large cities have arisen where once was an -inhospitable desert. - -The marvellous City of Kalgoorlie stands on the site of Hannan’s Find. - -Twelve months after the finding of Coolgardie an important discovery -was made 24 miles away in a north-easterly direction. About 150 miners -had set out to search for some lost prospectors near Yerilla. They were -compelled by lack of water to halt, and actually camped on the spot -where the find was afterwards made! Rain fell and the main body went -forward and continued their search, but two of the party, named Hannan -and Harrigan, remained, and stumbled on what has since proved to be the -richest field the world has ever known. They had begun specking, and -obtained nearly 100 ounces in a few days. As gold is worth nearly £4 per -ounce, that was good work. They returned to Coolgardie, reported the -find, and secured an area equal to 10 alluvial claims. Nearly 2000 men -followed them on their return to the find, most of whom remained there. -It would be impossible to tell in words the value and marvellous richness -of this new Eldorado. Nine thousand ounces of gold were taken from 4 tons -of stone at Hannan’s mine, and other claims of 50 feet square yielded 400 -and 500 ounces of gold each. Some of the prospectors were new chums, and -had never been on a goldfield before. One who knew nothing of mining sunk -his shaft by sheer luck fair on the gold. Hundreds of practical diggers -had walked over the ground before, little thinking that the ironstone -gravel was so rich in the precious metal and that they were passing over -thousands of ounces. Another man dollied (that is, crushed by hand labour -with a heavy weight) 650 ounces in three weeks, the only implements -being half a bottle of quicksilver and the head of a pick. Many a time -these prospectors of the gold country have felt that a spring of fresh -water and a few loaves of bread would be more welcome to them than all -the gleaming gold they were getting. Under what trials did they work! No -water to wash the dirt, and yet the ground so moist that they had to dry -the dirt before they could blow it to find the gold; yet they persevered, -and many found fortunes by hard work and persistence. No wonder many -miners say that gold-mining is not so easy as falling off a log. - -An Adelaide syndicate at this time sent Messrs. W. G. Brookman and -Pearce, with a capital of only £150, out of which passages, camels, and -rations had to be found, to prospect around this marvellous new find, -which they did with such success that they discovered a still more -wonderful place 3 miles from Hannan’s Find, and now called the Boulder. -Their find has since proved the greatest of all. The first claim was -called the Great Boulder, and the property included two ironstone hills, -one 100 yards long by 50 feet wide; the other twice that size. These -hills were covered with rich stones, the prospectors picking them up from -all parts, and Mr. Pearce picked up several large slugs (nuggets) at the -foot of the hill. They afterwards took up several more claims, and soon -found these to contain enormous gold-bearing reefs. Messrs. Brookman and -Pearce, by keeping to the old adage, that “a still tongue makes a wise -head,” remained undisturbed, and were able to take up all the ground they -wanted. Lake View Consols, Ivanhoe Associated, and other rich mines were -taken up by this little syndicate, and are now valued at £21,000,000. Mr. -Brookman, as you may suppose, is now one of the millionaires of Western -Australia. - -The next great find was the Londonderry, in May 1894, when thousands of -ounces were dollied out from the surface. Lord Fingall bought out the -claim for an interest and £180,000 cash. Then followed the Wealth of -Nations, from whose first find was taken an enormous quantity of gold -and specimens worth £20,000. This claim was soon bought up for £150,000. -The inevitable rush to both these places followed. The men all seemed -to run mad in their thirst for gold. It was at this time that almost -everything showing gold was snapped up and put on the London market. -Stories savouring of the Arabian Nights were in free circulation, and -thousands of people from all parts of the world began to flock to -Western Australia, which from comparative obscurity has now become the -greatest gold-mining country the world has ever seen, and, no doubt, the -interior of this vast country holds an almost inexhaustible quantity of -gold-bearing quartz, which in years to come, when railways and other -appliances have made it easier to reach the far-off fields, will be -discovered and used. We may see such marvellous discoveries of gold -that “Golden Western Australia” will be the fitting name for the once -neglected Cinderella of the colonies. - - - - -[Illustration: Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - - Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting - a Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward Mine—Bonnie - Vale—Londonderry—Nearly Lost—King Solomon’s Mine—Hampton Plains. - - -At 9 o’clock in the morning after my arrival in the Golden City, I stood -gazing in amazement at a string of 135 camels, with numerous baby camels, -such funny-looking creatures, walking by their mothers! The Afghan -leaders came crying “Hoostah,” and their Indian dresses and huge turbans -made a most picturesque sight for eyes that had before only seen the -like in pictures, or, yes, one, I think, at the Melbourne “Zoo.” Then -another camel came trotting or galloping with a European on its back, who -seemed as much at home as on a horse. I am told camel-riding gives one -a sea-sick feeling. I have never tried the experiment of a ride, though -several ladies on the fields have done so. To look at the camel you would -think a step-ladder required to mount one, but it is not so, as the camel -kneels down and allows you to get on his back; you then cling on tight, -while he proceeds to get up, which he does with an awful jerk, at the -same time making a peculiar bellowing noise, which sent me away to a good -distance. When I tell you that a camel’s hind legs will reach any part -of him, over his head, round his chest, and on to his hump, and that he -has the unpleasant habit of shooting out his legs without warning, and -also that his neck is of the same pliancy, you will not wonder that the -“ship of the desert” has no charm for me. The camel is the great beast -of burden of Western Australia; the first were brought as an experiment -to the West by two Hindoo traders; these animals quickly came into -favour in the waterless districts, and now there are thousands of them -carrying supplies to the different parts of the colony. They are very -obedient to their Afghan masters, but it is difficult for a white man -ever to obtain great influence over them; they never seem to take kindly -to white people. A string of these useful but ungainly animals is led -by one of their own species, a string passing through a peg in the nose -of every camel in the train, and keeping them in a line. The headgear -of a leading camel is a gay affair; a network of fancy coloured wool -with many a bright-hued tassel and white shells, finished off with blue -and red beads. The Afghans are very careful and proud of their “leading -gentleman.” - -[Illustration: EARLY DAYS, COOLGARDIE] - -Taking a drive round Coolgardie I was much surprised at the size of -the place. It is four miles square. Driving out to the racecourse we -passed the recreation-ground. As it was Saturday, many of the boys of -the town were playing cricket. We passed through the suburb of Toorak. -Certainly there are no fine mansions; for the most part the places -are Hessian camps with occasional tents, but there are also some very -comfortable-looking wooden cottages, many with praiseworthy attempts at -ornamentation, painted light green, and not at all unpleasing to the eye -in this sandy and desert-looking country. There are no large trees here -at all, a few medium-sized ones, and plenty of mulga scrub and salt-bush, -which looks most dry and uninviting, but contains much nourishment, so -that sheep and cattle thrive well on it, and mulga is almost the only -food of the camel. Returning to Coolgardie, we passed through the town -again and crossed the railway bridge to the other chief suburb, Montana. -Here we saw the fine residence of Warden Finnerty, and the hospital, -called John of God. On we went past the suburb along the road to the -famed Londonderry. The country just here was very pretty; there is a deep -gully on one side with a good deal of vegetation, which, after all the -sand and mulga, was most pleasing to the eye. The sun was just setting, -and the brilliant red of the sky seemed to cast a reflection on the -earth. The mines in the background, with the tents scattered round, a -camel-train along the bush, and the town in the distance, formed a unique -picture. Returning we took another direction, past the oldest part of the -town, and past the Afghans’ camp. The day’s work was done and hundreds of -camels were lying down or munching the mulga. The Afghans were preparing -their evening meal and chattering to one another in shrill voices. I -soon saw quite enough of this part, and was not sorry to return to my -comfortable quarters at the hotel. - -The population of Coolgardie and the immediate neighbourhood is at the -present time about 13,000; a few years ago there were more than twice -that number, most of whom have gone to the Kalgoorlie and other fields, -as the enormous richness of Coolgardie is now a thing of the past, -although many mines are still yielding well. - -There is a really splendid post-office, also a court-house and warden’s -offices, recently finished. These are three of the finest public -buildings in Western Australia. There are many other fine buildings, -notably the Grand Hotel, Union Bank, and Beaconsfield Chambers. The -Chamber of Mines is another handsome building on a splendid site, and a -most valuable place for the mining community. The Chamber of Mines keeps -the people of the world well informed concerning the great gold-mining -industry, and communicates statistical information of a trustworthy -character to every member interested in the mines of the colony, as well -as information concerning the fairness and justice of legislation dealing -with mines. One half of the building is occupied by the Coolgardie Club. -Looking at these magnificent buildings in the wide and spacious streets, -all lighted up by electricity, and supplied with every luxury, one can -scarcely realise that a few years ago Coolgardie was a sandy desert; -where many men went through hardships almost beyond imagination; where -fever reigned supreme; where the bare necessities of life were daily -longed for in vain; where comforts were the things to be only dreamed -of and the isolation was terrible; where tinned meat, the only kind -obtainable, became almost hateful, and received the name of “tinned dog”; -where one could almost cry, “Water, water everywhere, but not a drop -to drink,” since the pioneers often found themselves in a wilderness -with nothing but salt water, quite unfit to drink, and refused even by -the camel, who is supposed to drink almost anything obtainable. Camels -would stray away seeking for water, and then the owners would return -to their camps disheartened, saying that they had no time to look for -gold, it took all their time to look for water and camels. The terrible -longing for home news, and the uncertainty of getting any; the wall that -seemed to divide the miners from the rest of the world, together with -the feeling that there was untold wealth of gold lying beneath their -feet if they could only hold out and keep up strength to get at it, made -their lives almost intolerable, and many of those first prospectors have -gone under, poor fellows! leaving others to reap the reward and to make -Coolgardie the wonderful place it is to-day. - -Then came better times, when sufficient food could be obtained, and -water condensers were brought, which, by a certain heat process, made -the salt water more fit for use, although it was still sometimes so bad -that the rich prospectors often performed their ablutions in champagne by -preference to it. - -Going down Bayley Street that morning there was quite a stir outside one -of the smaller hotels. Of course, woman’s curiosity prompted me to stop -and look, and I found a wedding-party just returned from church. The -landlord of this hotel, Mr. Faahan, has really had a unique experience -in servants, for this is the twenty-second of his women assistants, -presumably in the bar, who has entered the bonds of wedlock while in -his employ. The hotel is one of the oldest in Coolgardie. I have since -entered it and met the genial Mrs. Faahan, who took me outside and showed -me an old tree beneath which the first drink under licence was served in -Coolgardie. The place that is now the kitchen was then the bar, gold-dust -was plentiful, and champagne ran like streams of water. Opposite to Mr. -Faahan’s is the Cremorne Theatre, a very large place now, but in the -first days it was a shed with a stage made of rough planks laid across -beer-casks, and no accommodation for visitors to sit down, and it is said -that the miners used to pass the time between the “turns,” as they call -them, by calling out the favourite players and throwing nuggets or screws -of gold-dust at them. Good old days! - -[Illustration: WATER CONDENSER—FILLING THE WATER-BAG] - -Taking my bicycle I went for a tour of inspection around the various -streets adjacent to the town, where I found many very nice houses, and -to my surprise saw a lady in a very nice carriage drawn by a pair of -greys. Truly, I ought to be surprised at nothing in wonderful Coolgardie. -The roads here are the most level and the best for cycling I have ever -ridden on; not only are the streets remarkably wide, but the footpaths -also. The town is on quite a plain. Riding merrily along I was overtaken -by a man cyclist, who did not favour me with more than a passing glance, -lady cyclists being no rarity here. I, however, recognised him as an -old friend and called out, “Jack, don’t you know me?” He stopped in -astonishment at seeing me riding about Coolgardie on a bicycle, as we -had last said good-bye in New South Wales, three years since, before -his leaving for the Golden West, whither I then had no intention of -migrating. After a little chat, in which I discovered that Jack had not -struck a gold patch or “made his pile yet,” he invited me to the camp to -dinner with himself and the boys (his mates), and feeling quite anxious -really to see for myself what the inside of the camp was like, I did not -require a second invitation. We accordingly rode off side by side, past -endless rows of tents and hessian camps, all alive with the miners now -home for their dinner. Some of them had wives in the camp to cook their -dinner, but the majority of the campers had to cook for themselves. “We -must hurry up, for I am cook this week,” said my friend, and pointing to -a parcel on the bicycle, remarked, “Here is our dinner that is to be.” -No tinned dog now, as it used to be, but real, genuine steak. On arrival -at the camp we found two of the boys anxiously awaiting the arrival of -the steak, and somewhat surprised at seeing Jack accompanied by a lady -cyclist, whom, however, they greeted with much heartiness. Poor fellows! -here were four of them all away from home and mother; all had given up -good appointments on the other side to come over and search for gold. -They were all very jolly, however, and said that they had no cause to -complain of Coolgardie. My first anxiety was to inspect the camp, which -was a neat one. It consisted of five little Hessian houses: four of -these were the sleeping apartments of the four mates, and two of them -especially were models of comfort, as far as the boys could manage it. -One was lined with bright cretonne, a shaded lamp by the side of the -bed, a rough bookcase with the owner’s favourite books and photographs -of various friends opposite; a nice cosy chair and a wooden table, made -by my friend Jack, completed the furniture. Then another had his camp -lined with green baize, very nice in winter, but too hot, I imagine, -in summer-time. Here was a nice little table, two shelves painted with -white enamel paint, and some sketches done by the owner; many little -presents that had been sent from home were being proudly shown to me -when we heard the welcome sound, “Dinner is ready.” We then adjourned to -the fifth tent, which proved to be dining-room, parlour, and card-room -in one. A table down the middle covered with oil-cloth, a bench at each -side, with a side shelf and rustic dresser, formed the furniture. The -steak was cooked splendidly. My thoughts went back to the time when I -had seen Jack last, quite a swell young man at Newcastle, N.S.W., and -now here he was in a wide hat and shirt-sleeves, cook to the camp, and -looking, I must say, all the better for his roughing experiences. They -had brought out the man in him. Before he was somewhat inclined to be -effeminate, now he had become a fine fellow. But I am wandering away from -the dinner-party. The butter was good, although it was tinned butter, -and the bread as light as a feather. “The baker calls every day,” they -told me, “and if we are all out we pin up a memo. on the door and tell -him how many loaves to leave.” “Now,” said Jack, “I must go out and -get the pudding.” I felt I ought at least to assist, and was also a -little curious to see how it was being cooked, so getting up in spite of -protests that I was the guest and must do nothing, I went out to quiz. I -found the fireplace consisted of two iron spikes in the ground with a bar -across, from which hooks were hanging, and on the hooks were two billies -(tin cans with wire at top to hang by), one with tea and the other with -pudding. I was presently to have what we call in the colonies “billy -tea.” I could see no pudding-cloth, but presently Jack fished out a -shining tin which proved to contain one of Swallow and Ariel’s Melbourne -plum puddings, and a delicious one it was. Mothers in the colonies and -in England need never fear that their boys away on the goldfields do -not get nice puddings or cakes while Swallow and Ariel are to the fore. -Returning to the dining-tent pudding laden, I found the boys had just -extracted from a tin a sweet cake and also a preserved pineapple. This, -with tinned Viking cream and the billy tea, finished up a dinner fit for -a Princess of Coolgardie, as indeed I felt myself to be that evening, -with those four boys doing me homage. I found out afterwards that they -had all these nice things in the camp in reserve for Christmas, but they -were only too glad to open them all in my honour. Apropos of tinned -articles, the piles of discarded tins on the fields make one open one’s -eyes; there must be millions of them. One of my friends told me that in -earlier days, when everything in the palpitating heat-waves and fearful -grilliness of the camps got destroyed with heat and dust, they used to -come home to their meals feeling almost inclined to fall down and worship -the tinned vegetables and meat that they had buried in holes to try and -keep cool, and that these were the only eatable things to be got. Canned -apples were a special luxury for Sundays, and took them back to orchards -and gardens where they had wandered in the past. “Those apples, with a -lump of plum pudding, full of good things, sustained our waning energies -and brought us up smiling out of our then dreary camp life, and,” said -another, “it brought back happy recollections of civilisation and home.” - -After dinner we played a game of Nap on the camp-table, and I was the -winner of nine shillings, after which they all escorted me back to -my hotel, calling in on our way to see some other friends at another -camp, which proved to be a more pretentious place than the first, and -consisted of one of the pretty cottages before spoken of, the tenants -again bachelors. The inmates, a mining manager, his secretary, and clerk, -are attended by a Japanese servant; a very nice piano was in the pretty -drawing-room. One of the boys sang “Queen of my Heart,” in compliment he -said to me, and after a friendly glass of wine we resumed our bicycles -and rode gaily into the town, where I bade them good-bye, after spending -a most enjoyable afternoon in a goldfields’ camp. - -[Illustration: Burbanks Grand Junction Mine] - -I went next day to see Bayley’s Mine, where those wonderful first -finds were made. As I drove down broad Bayley Street and looked at the -stately buildings, I could not but think of those early days and of the -excitement of that time. - -Of course I did not expect to pick up lumps of gold as people did then, -but I certainly intended to keep my eyes very wide open, for I knew it -was not an infrequent occurrence for men to find good slugs of gold about -Coolgardie still. There are always a lot of men fossicking (looking for -gold at the surface) about Bayley’s, and recently a man found a specimen -of quartz weighing 144 ounces, and containing 97 ounces of pure gold; -later on he found several smaller pieces near the same place. The country -around Bayley’s is not very striking. Beyond the mines working and the -smoke from their batteries there is nothing to be seen except miles of -holes where the prospectors have been at work seeking for gold. It must -have been a busy scene when they were here. Thousands of miners digging -away, and then washing the stuff in tin dishes to see if there was a show -of gold; and if one hole showed nothing, away they turned to another. The -manager of Bayley’s took me round and told me that the mine is still very -rich. - -[Illustration: Vale of Coolgardie Mine] - -I think the people of Coolgardie ought to erect a memorial pillar to mark -the wonderful spot which may well be called the Mother of Coolgardie. -Little did the pioneers think, when they camped on this spot a few -years ago, that the arid desert would turn into a fine city, with more -golden country farther out, and other cities, with tens of thousands -of people earning good wages, and many amassing large fortunes. Such a -transformation in so short a time the world has never known. - -After leaving Bayley’s I crossed through a network of poles until I -struck the main road, and drove off to Bonnie Vale, which deserves its -name, the country being very hilly and quite surprisingly fresh and -green. Here many fine mines, viz., the Vale of Coolgardie, New Victoria -Consols, and others, under the control of Mr. A. E. Morgans, the member -for the district, are in full swing, and only wanting plenty of water -to give big results. A very nice little town lies close to the mines. -In another direction are the Big Blow and the Flagstaff; then come -Burbanks and Burbanks Birthday Gift. Burbanks Birthday Gift is really -a splendid mine. The main shaft, with its steel poppet-heads, is well -worth a visit, and so are the interesting models of different parts of -the mine, which were sent to the Paris Exhibition. Lady Charlotte Mine is -well worth inspection; a fine new battery has lately been erected, and -operations are now in full swing. The gold I saw from this mine—what they -call “coarse free gold”—was very splendid, and the quartz with the gold -showing through was exceedingly rich. - -I next visited the famous Londonderry Mine, some five miles farther on -through the bush. I had some difficulty in finding my way, as, after -leaving the last mine a few miles behind, there were several tracks, and -I did not know which to take. However, I took the one to the right, and, -after going on another mile, came across a party of five prospectors, -who looked somewhat surprised when I drove up and asked to be directed -to the Londonderry. They were, however, most civil, and gave me the -requisite directions, one even offering to accompany me. That, however, -I thought unnecessary, so I drove off, and soon came in sight of the -big poppet-heads of Londonderry, and none too soon, for I had just -discovered that a portion of the buggy I was driving had given way and -I could not have gone on much farther. The mine and its surroundings -gave one a very favourable impression. Everything looked bright and -nice. I drove up to the manager’s office, who immediately sent a man to -take the buggy to the blacksmith’s shop for repair, the horse to the -stables for a feed, after which he kindly invited me to his house, and -giving instructions to his housekeeper to attend to all my wants, had -to leave me, as it was time to go down the mine for inspection. I was -not at all sorry for a rest in a cool room, with a cup of tea and some -excellent cakes made by the housekeeper, for after the drive of ten -miles in the hot sun through the Coolgardie bush I felt that there are -drawbacks to travelling. When the manager came up from below he escorted -me over the mine and showed me everything of interest. Londonderry was, -after Bayley’s, the richest find near Coolgardie, and held a wonderful -record. The mine is the brightest-looking I have seen. Everything about -it seemed spick and span; the manager’s house was a model of comfort. -There was a store, a blacksmith’s shop, offices, and, indeed, every -appurtenance that could be desired for a mine. The manager unlocked the -great iron safe and showed me such gold that I had never seen before. I -felt like Shakespeare’s Benedick, “I did not think that I should live to -see such gold.” It was really the most brilliant and beautiful sight I -had ever seen. One large block of white quartz was thickly studded with -gold in nuggets all over it. I wanted to pick one off, but on trying to -do so found it firmly imbedded in the quartz. Over a dozen magnificent -specimens came from one rich pocket. Down below in this wonderful mine, -at the 200-foot level, a huge case is fitted up with iron doors for the -reception of the rich surplus ore that the safes cannot hold. I admired -some peculiar-looking specimens that I was told were felspar, which is -valuable for glass-making, and is found here in large quantities. - -[Illustration: JUBILEE AT RED HILL MINE] - -After all the kindness I had received from the manager I bade him a -reluctant farewell, as it was getting late and a ten-mile drive through -strange country to Coolgardie lay before me, but I knew there was a moon -that night, and did not fear the Australian bush at all, so I refused -the offer of an escort, and drove off by a different road from the one -I came for I wanted to see the township of Londonderry before I left. -This is about half a mile from the mine, past the tidy camps of the men, -who all came out and bade me a cheery good-bye. I stopped long enough -in the town to see that it is remarkably well laid out, with a very wide -principal street, a few very nice buildings, viz., post-office, store, -hotel and church; also a nice recreation-ground, where a number of the -miners and other townfolk were playing cricket. But I had to hurry away, -so, turning round a corner and following the telegraph-line, I started -for Coolgardie. The sun was just going down, the heat of the day was -over, and with the evening a refreshing breeze had arisen. I drove on -quite happily. Nothing happened, except that I met two swagmen in the -Bush, who looked at me so hard that I must confess I whipped up the horse -and got on as quickly as I could. I was now on quite a different road -from the one I came by. Everything looked strange, and I began to wonder -whether I was lost, but consoled myself by looking at the telegraph-line, -which I knew must lead to Coolgardie. The Wealth of Nations Mine lies in -this direction, one of the Western Australian golcondas of early days, -where discoveries of gold, frequently in pockets—small holes containing -comparatively large quantities of gold—such as had not previously been -known, were made near the surface, and caused the wildest excitement. It -was, however, too late to go there now, so I continued on the same road. -Another mile brought a big mine in view, and to my relief I found myself -at Burbanks again, and on the main road, so I was all right, and drove -merrily along, meeting only a carter or so walking by the side of their -teams, who, seeing a lady driving alone, said, “Good-night, missus,” -and went steadily on. As we got to the rise of the hill at Montana the -presence of hundreds of lights gave me welcome to the Queen City of Gold, -so there was a safe ending to that day’s journey, and both myself and -horse were quite ready for a good supper when we arrived at the hotel. - -Next morning I started for Hampton Plains, which is a large area of -ground taken up many years ago by an English syndicate at 2_s._ 6_d._ per -acre for pastoral purposes. However, when the rush of ’92 broke out at -Coolgardie, the news travelled to England that the great rush was only a -few miles from their territory. No wonder that they then immediately sent -out an expert, Mr. Lapage, M.I.E.C.E., to reconnoitre. On Mr. Lapage’s -arrival he found that a considerable number of alluvial surface holes had -already been struck, and 1000 ounces of gold had been taken out within -their boundary. Going over the land he found shows of gold in various -places; owing to the scarcity of water, nothing much, however, had ever -been developed there until recently, when the estate was thrown open to -prospectors. Large brickworks are now started on one part of the plains, -and the demand from Kalgoorlie for bricks is so great that the company -have lately duplicated their plant in order to make bricks enough to meet -the orders they receive. - -On my way to Hampton Plains I called at Bayley’s South, which are -yielding up very good gold. I saw a lot of ore come up out of the mine -that showed gold distinctly. I felt myself becoming quite an expert now. -The ore brought up here is in part hornblende schist, carrying very -visible gold. The manager told me the gold had evidently been shed from -the reef into the surrounding country rock, where there are cross reefs. -I also saw some ironstone, which I was told was very rich, but the gold -in it was so fine that one required to use a magnifying-glass, with the -aid of which I could distinctly see it. - -I next visited King Solomon’s Mine—not Rider Haggard’s famous one but -an exceedingly interesting namesake. Here there are quantities of the -diorite mixture of felspar and hornblende, with gold distinctly showing -through. This is an unusual and peculiar geological formation, and the -best specimens found on the field are at this mine. The gold has been -found impregnated in the diorite at a considerable distance from the -reefs, probably deposited there by water. I presently passed the Golden -Queen, and thought this such a nice name for a mine that I had to get -down and inspect it. I was lucky in just being in time to see two bars -of gold come up from the smelting works, and felt very covetous. The -manager told me that if I liked I could take them. I tried to do so and -found they were too heavy for me to carry, so perforce had to leave them, -much to my regret. I now approached Hampton Plains, a very flat part -of the country, as its name indicates. I looked around in vain for a -hostelry where I might put up and refresh myself and horse, but no sign -of anything of the kind appeared; about a dozen nice-looking houses in a -line were all I could see, the rest was plain, plain, plain. I summoned -courage to open the double gates of one of the houses and drove up to -ask for a drink for my poor horse, who seemed almost overcome with the -heat of the day. A man seeing me came to inquire what I wanted, and while -I was speaking to him a lady appeared on the broad verandah and kindly -invited me to enter. I was really glad to do so. Mrs. Ridsdale—for such -was the lady’s name—kindly told the man to put the horse up and go and -try and find enough water for a drink for him. They were really without -water on this dreadful hot day, waiting for the water-carts to come with -supplies. However, I was hospitably entertained with soda-water and -claret and biscuits, and after a rest, finding that my horse had been -refreshed with water, and also with some food, the carts having arrived, -I started off to investigate Hampton Plains. I did not find a great deal -to see. Several claims have been taken up, with no very great results so -far, except at the Italians Reward Claim, where some very rich stuff has -been got from the mine. There I was shown some handsome specimens, which -were kept in pickle-bottles, and very much admired one large nugget, -weighing 15 ounces. The land around here seemed suitable for pastoral -pursuits, if it were not for the scarcity of water, a difficulty which -will be overcome when the river of fresh water arrives at Coolgardie, and -there will no doubt in time be plenty of gardens and orchards, for the -soil is most productive. I saw a finger-post marked, “To Red Hill.” That -is another goldfield likely to be rich in the future. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - - The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial - Treasures. - - -Before leaving for England Mr. St. John Winne, the manager of the -Butterfly Leases at Red Hill, showed me some marvellously rich gold -specimens that he was taking with him to show the English investors. One -particular piece from which the mine derives its name is in the shape of -a butterfly—wings, body, even the little horns are perfectly like one. I -have read the “Golden Butterfly,” and have seen many golden butterflies -careering in the air, but never thought to have one of natural solid gold -in my hand. Mr. Winne has now returned from England, and I believe the -English shareholders’ eyes were fairly dazzled with the samples of the -prospective wealth before them. - -[Illustration: Golden Butterfly Nugget] - -It is 40 miles from Coolgardie to Red Hill and Lake Lefroy, and the -journey is anything but pleasant; the “Brumbies,” however, knew their -way, and the manner in which they got through the bush was astounding. -There was no road, only a track, but they took us safely over fallen -trees, &c., for which we were duly thankful. There were several camps -of prospectors about and the men seemed to be quite contented, and were -getting gold; they were, however, like all alluvial miners, rather -reticent about the quantity. Water is very scarce; it was a good thing we -had provided ourselves with water-bags and a good hamper of provisions, -otherwise we should have fared badly, for the only bush hotel we came -to was made of the proverbial tin, and everything inside was nearly at -boiling-point, so we preferred camping out under a tree. Water-bags are a -great institution in Western Australia. They are made of canvas, and have -a metal spout; as you drive along they swing in the air, which makes the -water delightfully cool. Lake Lefroy is a beautiful-looking lake, and I -longed for a bathe after the intense heat and dust of the day; but, alas! -the water was but a mirage, and you could only look and long. It was, -however, a beautiful sight; the white salt on its surface, stretching -for miles, seemed to reflect the blue sky with the sun shimmering on it. -There are a great number of lakes in Western Australia, but they are -nearly all dry and salt; no water can be obtained except by boring, and -then it has to be condensed before it is usable. After being condensed it -is quite palatable, and many fortunes have been made on the goldfields by -people owning condensers. - -[Illustration: The Main Shaft, Butterfly Leases.] - -Red Hill is not a bad little place. The accommodation of the Bush -“hotel” was very primitive, but we were in the “back-blocks” of the -West, and felt that we must not be too critical. There were several -mines and numbers of alluvial miners at work getting good results, -and very sanguine of making a big find one of these days. I saw the -stope (excavation) where the Treasure Chamber was, in which all the -before-mentioned gold at the Butterfly Mine was found, and I wished a -similar rich pocket might be struck while I was on the spot. Thirty miles -from Red Hill is Wigiemooltha, and 65 miles farther on is Norseman, a -rich mining town in the Dundas Goldfield. In the future there is to be a -railway line through these places, and, the people hope, to Esperance, -a seaport 200 miles from Coolgardie and 237 miles from Albany. Norseman -is a very flourishing goldfields town of over 1000 people. There are -some good mines there, the foremost one, The Norseman, turning out -considerably over 1000 ounces of gold per month. The Princess Royal and -Break o’ Day Mines have also given splendid results, sensationally rich -gold having been recently found at the latter mine. - -The clergyman at Norseman performs the tying of the marriage-knot for -many hundred miles around, and it is recorded that two couples were so -anxious for connubial felicity, and wrote so many pressing letters for -the minister to come and unite them, that he started on his bicycle for a -150-mile ride through the desert country, and that when within 20 miles -of the place the bicycle broke down and he had to push it the rest of -the way! Had this not happened he had intended going on another trifle -of 100 miles or so to make another couple happy! The breakdown, however, -put a stop to his travels, and the couple are perhaps still watching and -waiting for the parson, who returned to Norseman per camel. - -An exhibition was being held at Coolgardie during one of my visits -there, and was very interesting on account of the many magnificent gold -exhibits. As well as the gold, there were many splendid exhibits from the -agricultural districts, which opened the eyes of the goldfields people, -most of whom had never been in any other part of the colony but the -goldfields, and who had an idea that gold was Western Australia’s only -product. Many of these people have been so much impressed that they have -taken up agricultural land with a view to having a country residence, -to which they can retire after the heat and dryness of the goldfields -and recruit while planting their gardens. In the Agricultural and Fruit -Court bunches of grapes, weighing 8 lb. each, apples, pears, and quinces, -2 lb. each, pomegranates, oranges, and other fruits, were shown in rich -and tempting profusion. A trophy of pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers of -all hues, shapes, and sizes was displayed. The crown of the trophy was a -huge brown pumpkin weighing 165 lb.! A vast array of watermelons, some -weighing 50 lb. each, mangels and other sorts of homely vegetables, of -immense size, were to be seen. All kinds of cereals were represented. It -is a fact that no less than 32 distinct varieties of wheat can be grown -in the colony. The wool I thought very good, considering what a small -quantity is grown here yet. The collection certainly demonstrates the -fitness of certain parts of the colony for raising flocks. One fleece of -330 days growth weighed 13½ lb. I was also surprised to see some cotton -that was grown on the East Murchison at Mount Warragi. - -The row of gilt pyramids representing the output of gold from each field -struck my eye as soon as I entered the exhibition. It is interesting to -remember that, when the Colonial and Indian Exhibition was held at South -Kensington, London, Western Australia was not known as a gold-producing -country, and was represented principally by wild flowers. In this -exhibition the collection of auriferous ores was simply marvellous. There -were many bags of rich gold ores from all parts of the country, as well -as curious beautiful and interesting specimens of tin, iron, copper, -asbestos, mica, and coal; in fact, samples of almost everything found -beneath the earth’s surface in this wide colony. Then the gold: gold in -granite, gold in quartz, gold in diorite, gold in telluride, gold in the -wash, gold in the pug, gold in all kinds of alluvial deposits—in fact, -gold, gold everywhere. A section of the calcite vein from the Block 45 -Mine, where the telluride was first discovered, is interesting. The -auriferous breccia from Nullagine, in the North-west, was shown to me -by my guide, who explained that the stuff was of similar formation to -the gold deposits of the Rand in South Africa, in which diamonds are -sometimes found; and, speaking of Nullagine, there is now a syndicate -there looking for diamonds. The mine is called after Lady Forrest, some -small diamonds have been found, and from the latest reports fresh wonders -are expected there soon. - -There was a splendid specimen of fine flake gold, and a magnificent large -piece of quartz with gold all through it. This was from the Brown Hill -Mine. The Golden Horseshoe showed such wonderful specimens of richness -that my eyes were fairly dazzled, and it is impossible to enumerate them. -Free gold, mustard gold, and the sparkling sponge gold that really shone -like diamonds were shown me, and a part of the rich finds that were -discovered when the shares went up to £45; it nearly took my breath away -to look at them. The Associated Mines had a wonderful exhibit, the finest -of its kind in the world. It consisted of a block of ore showing massive -telluride gold of different kinds. A dark mineral in the centre of the -block when analysed proved to be sulphide of copper. By way of contrast, -a small piece of ore containing telluride has been placed in front, and -acid employed to dissolve the tellurium, and this helps one to comprehend -the value of telluride. - -The Boulder Perseverance had a very fine collection of different kinds -of ore and gold and also some diamond drill cores which I had not seen -before. The magnificent collection of the Lake View Consols, consisting -of 68 specimens, showing telluride of gold, 34 valuable samples of -sulphide ore, and 32 pieces of oxidised ore, showing immense quantities -of gold, besides many others showing the various stages of oxidisation, -really ought to be seen, words cannot describe their beauty. The Great -Boulder Mine showed 14 splendid specimens of rich oxidised ore from the -100-foot level, containing sponge and free gold, and 15 specimens from -the 200-foot level. In the centre of these was a block of ore with a -hole right through it full of sponge gold; there were 12 specimens of -rich sulphide ore from the 300-foot level, 10 very interesting samples -of tellurides of gold, mercury, and silver, and saucers with chips of -telluride of gold. Kalgurlite, which is a new mineral, a telluride of -gold, silver, and mercury, containing 35 per cent. of gold, 10 per cent. -of silver, and 46 per cent. of tellurium, was also exhibited, and a very -unique collection of sponge gold occupied a case in the centre of the -court. This was found in a very large vugh, and 60lb. weight was obtained -from one spot in the oxidised ore. It was composed of a mass of minute -crystals, and is the most brilliant form of gold found upon the field. -From the 400-foot level came some marvellous samples of ore showing -telluride of gold and free gold, and from the hanging wall of the lode, -and the foot wall of the same level, more rich specimens were shown. - -[Illustration: The Miners’ Holiday] - -There were some splendid exhibits from the Ivanhoe Mine, and from -hundreds of other mines on the field. Those I have first mentioned were -from Kalgoorlie alone. There were splendid exhibits from Coolgardie, -Kanowna, Menzies, and Murchison Mines, and from many other parts of the -colony, whose unparalleled richness called forth the following remark -from an American mining-man, who was visiting the court at the same time -as I was, and who had come from Cripple Creek in Colorado: “Wal, I’ve -seen a big lot of specimens in my time, but I must take off my hat to -these; they lick creation!” I returned next day to have a look at the -alluvial gold from the famed Kanowna. The court of alluvial diggings -was attracting a great deal of attention, not because of its richness -but also on account of the stir made in 1897 by the rush there, when the -rich alluvial gold was first struck by George Sim. Not only has Kanowna -proved itself a mine of wealth for thousands of hard-working alluvial -miners, who chiefly worked the claims themselves, and consequently -had all the gold “on their own,” as their saying goes, but it also -produces a very fine building stone. There was in the exhibition a most -remarkable-looking perfect crystal 17½ inches long and 9 inches thick, -which was discovered in the alluvial wash at Shand and party’s Claim. The -display of alluvial matter in all its varied forms shown in this court -was almost enough to spur on any one to become a prospector. A golden -harvest has been reaped by thousands of men in a few short months, for -the rush to Kanowna began in November 1897, and at that time the town -of Kanowna was virtually dead; three months later it was estimated that -there were 2000 miners in the field and 20,000 people in Kanowna all -told. In twelve months the field was virtually worked out, and although a -few parties are still getting a reward for their labours, there are not -now more than 1000 men on the field. The stuff called “pug,” from which -they get very fine gold, is a most peculiar greenish, soft, putty-looking -substance, and there was a fine show of it from Hampton’s Claim in the -Golden Valley. This was found 61 feet down, and the deposit is 7 feet -thick. Some splendid specimens of lode material showed crystalline gold -extremely rich, worth 40 ounces to the ton. The Red, White and Blue -Claim, owned by Pratt and party, displayed rich ironstone alluvial -wash. This claim yielded 4500 ounces of gold, worth £18,000, and only a -few partners divided it. Some green alluvial wash which has given rich -results was from the Moonlight Lead, which also showed flake gold; and -from the Magpie Claim there was rich alluvial ore shown worth 9 ounces -per ton. - -Rich treasures similar to these were sent from the mines to the Paris -Exhibition, and the Western Australian Court was universally said to -have the finest collection of minerals the world had ever shown. The -Bobby Dazzler nugget, weighing 413 ounces of solid gold, valued at £1500, -was a surprise to many beholders; among the hundreds of other solid lumps -of the precious metal sent to Paris was the large nugget that was cut in -two by one of the two men who found it, and who then drew lots for the -sections and found that there was only a difference of 30s. in the value -of them. Another slug of gold, worth £639, had the distinct mark of a -pick on it. I suppose the man who found it could hardly believe in his -good luck until he struck it a second time. Another strange lump of gold -is shaped like the map of England, another like a camel’s head. The last -“clean up” of the Westralian Mount Morgans Mine was sent in bars of gold -worth £11,600. The Westralian Government purchased from the owners of -various mines I mention in these travels over £100,000 worth of gold for -the exhibition, and this, supplemented by quantities more since won, will -be shown at the Glasgow Exhibition this year. The pearl-shell exhibit, -was composed of 600 enormous gleaming shells, which, when lit up by -electric light, looked like a fairy grotto. During last year there were -179 vessels engaged in the pearl-shell fisheries in Western Australia, -and their aggregate tonnage was 2707. The number of men employed was -1165, of which total 991 were Asiatics. The pearl-shell raised amounted -to 720 tons, valued at £80,479, and the value of pearls found was -£15,529. Also our colony took four first prizes for timber, wool, wheat, -and minerals, at the Paris Exhibition, besides eight gold medals, five -silver ones, and five bronze for other productions. - - - - -[Illustration: Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - - Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. - Kaufman—Early Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View Consols - and Great Boulder. - - -Hannan’s, or Kalgoorlie as it is now called, is 24 miles from Coolgardie, -and as I took my comfortable seat in the railway carriage, sped along -the once forsaken desert and arrived at the now famous City of Gold, -with its broad streets and splendid buildings, it seemed incredible that -such a transformation should take place in a few short years. It would -be difficult to point to any place in the world that has developed so -rapidly. During their short existence Kalgoorlie and the Boulder City -have turned out over 31 tons of gold, and Coolgardie has been quite -outstripped by her younger sister. I think, when gold is measured by the -ton, the colony from which it comes may be fairly considered marvellous. -It is only seven years since Hannan and Harrigan threw themselves down -to rest on the ground at the eastern corner of what is now Kalgoorlie, -and, fortunately for thousands of lucky people, discovered gold, and -now, as far as that precious metal is concerned, Kalgoorlie is the hub of -Australia. Kalgoorlie is a well-laid-out city. Bicycle tracks are laid -down on the 30-foot wide paths, electric lights are everywhere, trees -have been planted in the broad streets, and by-and-by will afford shade -in the hot days for which Kalgoorlie is noted. The new post-office is a -splendid building, and has cost £40,000. The warden’s and other public -offices are also on a grand scale. There are several magnificent hotels, -especially the Railway, opposite the station, and the Palace, covering -half an acre of ground, which I have made my headquarters. This hotel -is far the best on the goldfields of Western Australia; every luxury -is obtainable; it has a spacious dining-room with electric fans always -going, exquisite drawing-rooms, and good attendance. - -There are several newspapers, the chief of which is the _Kalgoorlie -Miner_, edited by Mr. Kirwan, who identifies himself in every way with -the interests of the people as well as with his editorial duties; -the miners have a staunch friend in him. There are many fine shops, -especially jewellers, where gold nuggets of all shapes and sizes -made into handsome ornaments may be bought. Land at Kalgoorlie is -daily increasing in value. An offer of £100 a foot was refused by -an acquaintance of mine for a plot she is lucky enough to own. Some -mining-men, including the well-known Mr. Zeb. Lane, were dining at the -next table to myself on one occasion, and one of them remarked that he -was sure that in a few years there would be 300,000 people in Kalgoorlie. -You may be sure, holding that opinion, that the gentleman was looking -out for investments. A handsome new theatre is being erected in Hannan’s -Street. At present the Miners’ Institute supplies the entertainments. The -suburbs of Piccadilly and Mullingar stretch far beyond the town site, and -the three miles to Boulder City are fast being built on, and will shortly -form one continuous busy road. Three fine breweries supply the needful -refreshment to thirsty souls, and altogether Kalgoorlie is a splendid -goldfields city, but the summer weather is almost indescribable. One of -the days had been unbearably hot and oppressive; but dark clouds were -overhead, and I said, “Soon we shall have a rain storm, which will cool -the air.” My friends whom I was visiting laughed, and one of them, with -a merry twinkle in the eye, said, “There will probably be a storm, but -you will soon get accustomed to this kind of weather; _wait awhile_.” In -the evening Fitzgerald’s “Great World Circus” being in town, we decided -to risk the “storm,” make up a party, and go to the performance. All -went well until about nine o’clock, when suddenly came “the dreadful -thunder”—the clouds had broken; then came, not the rain, but dust, dust, -_dust_—red, stifling, blinding, and terrible; for the roof of the “Great -World Circus” had been completely lifted off by the red-dust fiend, while -with his breath he had extinguished almost every light in the tent. -Crash! whiff! whirl! and the “willy willy” had madly danced far away. One -minute’s terrified silence and then through the remaining red haze could -be seen the circus performers bravely continuing their entertainment as -if nothing had happened; and blended with the echo of the distant din -could be heard the strains, “Gaily the music go-o-es, so gaily.” But -the vast audience of upwards of 3000 people, who, though the roar had -been so strangely “hush,” had witnessed enough excitement for one night, -gradually filed out through the rent of the swaying canvas wall, my -friends and I amongst them, arriving home very white-faced, underneath -the brown-red war paint so cunningly and weirdly distributed on us by the -fiend. After wiping the dust out of my own eye, I remembered the twinkle -that I had seen in some one else’s, and I laughingly exclaimed, “Was that -the ‘thunderstorm’ you recommended me to ‘wait’ for?” - -[Illustration: Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie] - -“We had a narrow escape,” tersely and grimly (I had almost written -grimily), remarked my friend; but he must have rubbed the twinkle out of -his eye and the dust into his temper for he declined to see the joke; -however, as mirth is catching, we were soon a merry party once more, -and I was regaled with “willy willy” stories of roofs being carried -for miles, and of houses being torn down by these huge “dust spouts,” -and, as at intervals I heard the “thunder” in the distance, I could -well believe the dancing, whirling devils capable of anything. Many -good theatrical companies now visit the goldfields, but the expenses of -a travelling company are very large, the railway fare from Perth being -about six pounds each return ticket first class, and four pounds second -(there is no third class in the colonies). The hotel tariff is from -twelve shillings per day (Palace sixteen), the smallest drinks (a big -item in such a hot and thirsty country) are a shilling each, and half a -crown is the usual price for a bath, as before said. There are no large -theatres on the fields, but the managers make the prices for admission -high, the community not caring how much they spend if they really wish -to see anything; in fact, that is one of their little worries, they are -always looking out for something to spend their money on. Horses, yes, -the best procurable, and they are a very high price. Champagne is from -twenty-five shillings a bottle, and that is the first drink the lucky -miner calls for; his great mania is “shouting,” as they call it, that -is treating wine to everybody they know. “Wives and families to spend -it on?” “Oh, yes; but they are on the other side,” meaning the Eastern -colonies; “I always send them plenty to live on, and when I’ve made my -pile (fortune) I’ll go home with it; in the meantime I must do something -to make life endurable here,” and the Hebe at the bar smiles sweetly, -and for it receives perhaps a diamond bracelet. I am not speaking of -the miner who earns his weekly wages, but of the man who is lucky in -his speculations of shares, or who owns part of a mine, and when they -strike rich, as they call it, spends his money lavishly. I sat on the -Palace Hotel balcony in Hannan Street one afternoon and watched the crowd -passing up and down; I was surprised to see the women so richly dressed, -elegant Redfern tailor-made gowns and Worth carriage costumes (although -no carriages were to be seen, but plenty of buggies with dust-covered -hoods) were much in evidence; many of the rich women send to London and -Paris I am told for their gowns. Occasionally a plainly-dressed woman in -a tweed or Assam silk costume with neat sailor hat would pass, probably -a mine manager’s wife or English visitor, but the majority of the women -of the goldfields spare no expense in the style and richness of their -dresses. At the present time the population of Kalgoorlie, its suburbs, -and Boulder City is nearly 60,000. In a very short time electric tramways -will be running, and extensive swimming baths are now being built. There -are many good churches, which shows that in the rush for gold the welfare -of the soul is not neglected. Goldfields places are usually looked on -as somewhat lawless. I can assure my readers, however, that those in -Western Australia are an exception. - -[Illustration: Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days] - -Over the hill, not to the poorhouse, but to the rich Mount Charlotte -Mine, I one morning took my way. From the hill a splendid view is -obtained, and for three miles beyond nearly all to be seen is mines, -their poppet-heads and batteries showing distinct against the sky. The -manager of the Mount Charlotte Mine was away, so I could not get much -information, and so, like Jo in “Bleak House,” I had to move on. The -next mine is Hannan’s Reward, where gold was first struck (found) at -Kalgoorlie; and although such wonderful results came from this place at -first, the mine has now been outpaced by many others. I passed dozens -more of mines, but did not stop until I got to the Brown Hill Mine, under -the control of Messrs. Bewick, Moreing & Co., one of the finest on the -field. This mine, as its name indicates, is on the top of a hill, and is -a most imposing-looking one; wealth seems to speak from the buildings -around it. The manager’s house is a splendid bungalow style of place, -replete, I believe, with every modern comfort. Outside is a tennis court -and other evidences of the manager’s tastes. The offices are large and -convenient. The manager, Mr. Feldman, being away in England, I did not -go down the mine, therefore cannot tell you anything about it; but Dr. -Diehl, who represents the London and Hamburg Gold Recovery Company in -connection with the Brown Hill Mine, has lately made a most interesting -discovery _re_ the treatment of sulphide ore, likely to be of much value -in the mining world. From this place I went to the Crœsus, thence to -Block 45, another mine that has given big results. Of course there are -many mines that have not proved as rich as those mentioned. Mining seems -to be like fishing: there may be any number of fine fish, but it does not -fall to the luck of all anglers to catch them. - -Away again past more mines, down through Golden Valley, now past -the Oroya, North Boulder, Bank of England, and Coolgardie Mint—all -splendid mines; then up the highest hill at the Boulder, as this part -of the goldfield is called, where I came to the great Australia mine -(Associated). From this place one has a glorious view of the other great -mines on the Golden Mile, so-called on account of the marvellous quantity -of gold that has been and is still being extracted from its depths—Lake -Mew, Great Boulder, Ivanhoe, Boulder Perseverance, and Golden Horseshoe. -They present a magnificent spectacle. It is almost impossible to describe -in words the wonders of the golden hills on which these wonderful mines -are placed. - -Close to the Golden Mile is a small square of business places—hotels, -stores, different kinds of little shops, and a brewery; this was the -beginning of Boulder City, but in consequence of the influx of people -and the increasing prosperity of the mines, it was found necessary to -establish the Miners’ City, a mile farther away, the intervening ground -being required for mining. According to mining laws any ground taken up -for that purpose cannot legally be built on, but miners are allowed to -camp there on sufferance, and the area is therefore dotted over with -mushroom-like tents and canvas houses. - -The Australia is the largest of the Associated Mines. Everything seen -is of the latest date; every appliance that man’s ingenuity can devise -is here. To convey the stone along the open cut to the mill there is a -wonderful aerial tramway composed of wire cables, on which the trucks -run high up in the air; it is a marvellous way of conveyance, but more -peculiar still is what is here called the “Flying Fox,” which has an -iron bucket on a single rope of twisted wire. Machinery on the top of -the shaft and above the crushing mill conveys it to its destination; -then the bucket empties as if by magic, and flies back to the bottom of -the open cut, a quarter of a mile journey, to be again replenished. It -seems almost incredible that a girl ever had the courage to take that -journey, and yet one actually performed the perilous feat. The manager in -jest had dared her to do it on her visit to the mine, and she, being a -strong-willed Scotch girl, took him at his word, got into the new aerial -car, flew through the air, and arrived quite safe at the bottom of the -cut, while every one present held their breath with amazement; and I -believe that all the workmen, on seeing a pretty girl deposited at their -feet in place of the usual prosaic empty bucket, stood in consternation -and amazement, wondering what the clouds were going to rain next. The -underground workings of the Australia are brilliantly lit with electric -light, which shows up the gleam of the rich gold through the ores so -beautifully as you peer through the light into the magnificent chambers -of oxidised or sulphide ore, you can almost imagine yourself in Aladdin’s -Cave. On the 300-foot level there is a magnificent chamber or stope, 16 -ft. high and 40 ft. wide, from which thousands of tons of ore have been -taken, returning 8 oz. to the ton. A specimen weighing 1½ cwt. had just -been broken off. It was studded and seamed with rich telluride. Owing to -the telluride lodes, mining presents wonderful possibilities. There is -no knowing what marvels may any day come to light. The rock-drill, whose -motive power is compressed air, had pierced down 550 ft. There was a -large gang of men down the mine timbering, enormous great poles, almost -tree trunks, were being put in position, propping up the earth to make it -safe. It made me shudder to think of the dangers of a miner’s life, and -yet, comparatively speaking, there are very few accidents in the mines -here. The genial underground-manager told me that every precaution was -taken in all the mines nowadays. We emerged from the shaft once more into -the light of day. The first thing to strike the eye on the top were the -enormous looking cyanide tanks, then the amalgamator’s rooms, where we -saw all the modern appliances for extracting the gold, wonderful vats of -chemicals where the rich tailings were lying waiting for the chemical -action to take place, ripple beds, then ball mills, pug mills, rock -breakers, and enormous stamping batteries in their various houses; then -last, but not least, the new roasting furnaces with their huge boilers, -and other parts looking like some immense military fortifications; these -are used for smelting, and cost £100,000. There were 20,000 or 30,000 -bags of ore waiting for treatment, full of gold. It is wonderful to see -the gold being smelted. To stay in the furnace-room for a minute or two, -even before the furnace-door was opened, was like taking a Turkish-bath. -I was quite content to stay on the outside when it was opened, and to -see the man, dressed in an asbestos suit from head to foot, pull out -with a great iron hook the red-hot pot full of molten gold and pour it -like golden sunshine into a mould. After seeing this man at his work I -thought him a kind of hero, and wondered what he weighed in the asbestos -suit. About 200 yards from the mine are the large and commodious offices, -and the quarters of some of the managers of different departments. The -gold produced from this mine up to the end of November 1901 was 214,485 -ounces, and the dividends paid amounted to over £258,750. - -[Illustration: A Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols] - -Driving over to the Lake View Mine was not altogether pleasant, as, when -nearly half-way down the steep and stony hill, my horse stumbled and -nearly fell; however, a kindly pedestrian seeing my difficulty came to -my assistance, and, much to my relief, led him down to the foot of the -hill. I then crossed over to Lake View, which is said to be the greatest -gold-producer of this marvellous field, outrivalling even the famed Mount -Morgan in Queensland, which was almost a mountain of gold. Mr. Charles -Kaufman purchased this wonderful mine for a company when he was on a -visit to Australia; seeing the wealth and magnitude of the Kalgoorlie -mines, he did not hesitate to pay the sum of three-quarters of a million -sterling, and to take a quantity of shares for himself, and since that -time he has also purchased other large mines. There is a very large -and efficient staff of experts in their different departments on high -salaries. Lake View Consols, to give the mine its full title, was, until -the advent of Mr. Kaufman, a mine that seemed fated to bad luck. It was -at that time owned by an Adelaide company. The first manager pronounced -it a failure, the second died of typhoid, and the third, Mr. O’Neill, -managed to pay out a dividend of 3_d._ per share! This was the first -dividend ever paid on the field. Since then many dividends of £1 per -share have been made. When Mr. Kaufman purchased Lake View he soon had it -equipped properly and started on a new basis. Now, in place of the meagre -poppet-heads and small shafts, a gallows-frame towers 120 ft. into the -air, and immense shafts, sending up their continuous supply of splendid -ore, give token of the change that has taken place. When you go down the -mine in the “cage,” as they call it, you need only close your eyes and -fancy you are in an elevator. When you get down 100 ft. you step out to -a drive running 1700 ft., then on the north side you go 450 ft., and -must not go any farther, because you are near the Boulder Perseverance -ground, which is another rich mine close by. Here is an immense body of -rich high-grade sulphide ore, 51 ft. wide. Teluro sulphide (in which -telluride is found) and sulphide ores differ from oxidised ore, which -is usually of a light colour and shows the gold freely; the other ores -have a silvery-grey appearance, seldom showing gold, but when treated at -the mills and smelting works they frequently yield a large percentage of -it. Down again the visitor goes in the cage to 500 ft., the mine growing -richer and richer to the bottom. Coming up again, the stope[3] at the -300-foot level,[4] from which such phenomenally rich telluride, assaying -150 ounces to the ton, has been taken, shines like a star-bespangled -sky on a dark night. The shares in this great mine have been sold at £28 -10_s._ At that time the production was one hundred and twenty thousand -pounds worth of gold per month. The immense quantity of huge timber down -below is astounding. I am sure there must be enough used in timbering -this great mine to build a town. The level at the 100-foot is quite -large enough to give a ball in; the electric light and electric bells -are all ready, and the air is so beautifully cool that this would be an -ideal place for a ball on a hot summer’s night. The production from this -wonderful mine has been enormous, and when one has been down and seen -all I saw below, one does not wonder at it; it is a perfect marvel of -richness. I went over all the drives, stopes, cross-cuts, &c., and saw -everything. In place of men pushing the trucks of ore below, as is the -case in other mines, horses were drawing 8 or 9 trucks at a time. One -of the horses is a real pet with the miners, and at crib-time (mid-day, -dinner-time) he is unfastened and allowed to walk about the drive. He -always finds out where the men are, and comes up for bread or cake, which -he eats with a relish. He is lowered down the mine every morning in a -net, and is as quiet as a lamb now; at first, when he was very young, -he did not like the lowering process at all, but he has since got quite -used to it. Such bodies of rich ore have been opened up that years will -be occupied in treating it, the plant belonging to the mine not being -yet large enough to cope with the quantity. After the magnitude of the -under workings, nothing surprised me on the top, although the rumble and -stamping of the batteries, the hum of the mighty machines, the beautiful -bright engines that seem to work with perpetual motion, the enormous -furnaces, the magnificent cyanide plant, with its wonderful machinery -for extracting the gold, the electricity that seems to fill the air and -almost takes one’s breath away, are all so vast and wonderful that a -sense of something like awe came over one, and I was not sorry to get -into the open air again and see the blue sky above me. - -Only five years ago a miner returned to Adelaide, South Australia, from -the West, and called on a sharebroker, giving him 500 Lake View shares to -sell at as high a price as possible. They were sold for a few shillings, -and when the miner got his cheque he remarked “he was sorry for the -‘bloke’ who bought them, as he had been working on the mine and knew she -was no good.” Those 500 shares would now be worth several fortunes to -that miner had he kept them. The biter was bitten; I wonder how he feels -at the present day about it? - -[Illustration: Overlooking the Great Boulder] - -That Mr. G. Brookman, of Adelaide, was certain five years ago of the -great future of Lake View Consols is shown by a piece of paper with his -calculations on it, now in the possession of Mr. Fotheringham, also of -Adelaide, which reads as follows:— - -“Reef on Lake View, 3000 feet long, 100 feet deep, equal to 300,000 -feet, 6 feet wide, equal to 1,800,000 cub. feet, equal to 140,000 tons; -3 ounces to the ton, equal to 420,000 ounces; £4 per ounce, equal to -£1,680,000; allow £420,000 for cost of raising and crushing, &c., leaves -£1,260,000 available for dividends.” - -This great mine stands first in the field as a gold-producer, the total -yield in 1900 being 528,368 ounces, and dividends at the time of writing -having been paid to the amount of £1,187,500 (one million one hundred -and eighty-seven thousand five hundred pounds). When Brookman and Pearce -arrived at Coolgardie where Bayley found his Eldorado, and not finding -much there, went on to what was then called Hannan’s, now Kalgoorlie, -to look at Cassidy’s Claim, they saw plenty of the golden metal to -gladden their eyes. They began to work upon a reef, but Mr. Pearce, in -his wanderings around the then Bush in spare time, was attracted to some -ironstone hills. He prospected about, and was so well satisfied that he -and his mate shifted camp and began to work on what is now the Ivanhoe -property. Not keeping exactly within the pegged ground, they discovered -a rich leader (a small lode running into a large one) not far from the -camp. This was the first gold found on the Great Boulder. They then -pegged out 20 acres around each find, and keeping their good fortune to -themselves (knowing that a still tongue makes a wise head), soon pegged -out what is now Lake View Consols. The present value of these syndicate -holdings, if realised, would be about £30,000,000! So little was thought -of the leases at first that they were called “Brookman’s Sheep Farms.” - -I have a few pieces of really fabulously rich telluride that were -given to me from the same place, the 300-foot level, which yielded the -magnificent specimens sent to the Glasgow Exhibition. The veins of the -precious stuff were nearly four inches thick. They are so handsome that -it seems almost a pity to break them up and turn them into what is called -“filthy lucre.” - -After coming from the mine I, with the rest of a party that I had been so -fortunate as to meet on my visit here, was hospitably entertained by the -manager. I then resumed my journey. This time I thought myself growing -so clever, and beginning to know so much travelling alone, that, seeing -an opening between two large heaps of what I afterwards discovered to be -rich tailings (from the crushings of the ore from which all the gold has -not been extracted, and when treated by cyanide, which is a solution for -extracting every particle of it, often gives good returns), I started to -take a short cut through. I had, however, not thought of the air-tram -going along with its freight of ore overhead, and just as we were going -through the opening whirl it went along, frightening the poor horse, -who nearly upset the trap. But a second time that day I was saved to -continue my journey, this time by two miners, who were just emerging from -a shed close by, and who said, “Private road, missus.” However, on seeing -my look of distress, and on my mentioning my business as a lady explorer, -they let me pass on my way again rejoicing. From the side of Lake View -on which I now was, a totally different view presented itself. The large -buildings of the mine completely block the township of the Boulder, and -for a mile ahead nothing can be seen but mines, mines, mines, and on the -flats tents, Hessian camps, offices, and mine-managers’ houses. Many -good-sized places about here are boarding-houses. The majority of the -men camp and cook for themselves, but some of them merely sleep in their -tents and take their meals at the above-mentioned houses, usually looked -after by two or three women, who do the mending and washing required. -They speak in highest terms of the conduct of all the men; indeed, from -what I saw and heard, the camps are very well conducted, and I am sure -I have met with the greatest kindness and politeness from the mining -community in general. I drove all round these mines and camps, but only -stopped once to get a cup of tea at one of the houses, where I found the -housekeeper most kind and communicative. - -[Illustration: Hannan’s Star Mine] - -Hannan’s Star, Boulder Main Reef, and Chaffer’s are the mines adjacent to -the one I next stopped at—the Golden Horseshoe. Here I interviewed Mr. -Sutherland, the manager, at the office, who sent for the underground boss -(as he is termed), Mr. Morgan, to show me over the mine. To give an idea -of the wealth of this famous mine I must tell you that, when shares were -£8 each, such magnificent finds of gold were made that they went up in -value to £51! On going below, Mr. Morgan courteously showed me all over -the golden mine which has proved so profitable. He also showed me some -of the most magnificent gold, and specimens I have ever seen. These were -some of those that were found when the shares went up to the tremendous -price before mentioned. Sometimes the gold is found in solid pieces; -when mixed with quartz, the pieces are called “specimens.” We went down -to the 200-foot level, and saw the wonderful place where the finds ran -for weeks at a rate of 80 ounces and 90 ounces to the ton; 2000 ounces, -valued at £8000, were won in a few days. This was oxidised ore, and at -the same level is still abundant, but not quite so rich as the above -quotations. We then proceeded to the 400-foot level, where more rich -ore and wonderful workings were seen. Then along a drive down another -shaft to the 700-foot level, through stopes and cross-cuts, picking out -more specimens until I was fairly bewildered. Coming up we stopped at -the 400-foot level, where the rich sulpho-telluride ore showed free gold -quite plainly. Mr. C. D. Rose, the chairman of this mine, estimates that -the monthly production from oxidised ores alone will reach 14,000 ounces, -and will be maintained at that. This estimation has been more than -reached, one month’s production of the mine since that time having been -15,280 ounces of gold. - -[Illustration: The Ivanhoe Mine] - -When the mine’s great richness was first becoming apparent, a very -jovial meeting of the shareholders was held. The shares had then made -a big jump to £17. Previous to the time when the shares in the Golden -Horseshoe were £7 10_s._ a strong “bear” attack was made on them. (A -“bear,” in mining parlance, is a speculator who sells stock he does not -possess, with the idea of being able to purchase at a cheaper price -later on.) The mine was at that time “jumped” on account of some legal -technicality; but, instead of this producing the desired effect of a -fall in prices, the shares shortly afterwards rose, and the “jumpers” -made a hasty retreat, sadder but wiser men. A director of this mine told -me of the time, not very long past, when he advised his friends to buy -shares up to as he had himself done. Some of them acted on his advice, -but shortly afterwards the shares went down to £2 10_s._ He was then -overwhelmed with inquiries as to what was the matter. After making a -strict examination of the Golden Horseshoe properties, and seeing the -large bodies of valuable ore below, this gentleman’s advice was to stick -to the shares. Shortly afterwards they rose to £5 and £6, and now, as I -before said, they have been as high as £51 per share, and up to 19 ounces -of gold to the ton of ore has been got. This speaks for itself, and no -doubt it is one of the best mines in the world. I was told a story about -this mine, which at first I thought too incredible to be taken seriously, -but which I am assured is a fact. It is stated that an old lady recently -entered a London broker’s office and produced the certificates for -various shares which she said she wanted to dispose of, saying she would -take £5 for the lot. The broker found most of them to be shares of a -valueless kind, but one represented 500 Golden Horseshoes, which he sent -into the market and sold at £40 each, so that the old lady, instead of -getting £5 for her entire collection, was credited with £20,000 for one -slip of paper alone! - -I made my next move onwards along a narrow road between two hills. On -one side is the Ivanhoe, and on the other that marvellous mine the Great -Boulder. This is the second on the list as champion gold-producer, having -produced over 449,726 ounces. If each ounce of gold were to be coined -into four sovereigns, these ounces would represent over a million and a -half of money, of which £910,000 has been distributed in dividends. Mr. -George Inglis, well-known in England and on the Continent, was one of -the foundation members of the board of the Great Boulder Mine, and was -instrumental in finding some of the working capital of the company, and -has been deeply interested in it ever since its inception. The offices of -this great mine are close to it. I had to wait some little time before -seeing any one who would conduct me round, everybody seeming to be up to -their eyes in business. I accordingly mounted a hill to the open door of -a large building, which I found to be the amalgamators’ room. Here was a -feast of gold in bars, in ingots, in oval shape. It had just been brought -from the smelting-room, and the police escort was waiting to take it into -the bank at Kalgoorlie. I was fortunate in arriving at the time I did. -I had seen gold before, but never to this extent in its newly smelted -state; it was a revelation. - -The manager, Mr. Hamilton, was very courteous to me, and on my telling -him I wished to go underground at once acceded to my request. It was -hardly necessary to show him the letter I carried with me from the -Minister of Mines, Perth, asking all managers to extend their courtesy -and help to me in my travels on the goldfields. On arrival at the shaft, -a crowd of men had just come up, and another crowd were waiting to go -below; they were changing “shift,” which is the term used to denote -their working time of eight hours. During the week the mines never -stop working, consequently relays of men are required. In these shifts -their hours of labour are changed at certain times, and so the men are -sometimes on what is termed day shift or night shift. - -[Illustration: Mr. Zebina Lane] - -When I descended the 800-foot level the men who were there were taking -their mid-day meal, most of them sitting down on the great stones. Their -bright dinner cans, which contain three compartments, one for tea, one -for bread and meat, and one for sweets, looked very clean and nice, while -the many candles that lit up the otherwise gloomy cavern, the picks, -shovels, and other mining implements lying about, helped to make up a -characteristic scene of underground life. - -The diamond drill was at work. It was wonderful to see how the diamond -penetrated the hard rock, for the quartz must be nearly as hard as the -diamonds are themselves. Mr. Hamilton gave me a piece of the core of the -drill, which I shall place among my treasures from the mines. I peered -down the 300 feet below where I was, as the mine went down to 1100 feet, -but it was so dark and wet that I had no wish to descend any farther, so -mounting the cage I again ascended, stopping at two of the other levels -and climbing all around them, and seeing all the wonders beneath the -earth, and collecting more specimens. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - - The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder - Perseverance—The Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting - the Rock—British Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our - own Zeb. Lane—Kalgoorlie again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the - Goldfields. - - -The Ivanhoe Mine is quite close to the Great Boulder, and next morning -I set out to take a look at that, although I must confess I was getting -weary, having walked many miles underground in the last few days. -However, I was determined to go over the 6 biggest mines of the field, -so away I went. The manager received me in the kindest manner, and -offered me his room to prepare in, and told everybody to do everything -I wished, as he had important business at Lake View, and could not take -me down himself. The important business afterwards turned out to be that -he was taking over the charge of the Lake View Consols as well as the -Ivanhoe. Accompanied by three gentlemen visitors and the underground -manager, I descended the great Ivanhoe Mine. I had a particular wish -to see an enormous stope, 1500 feet long, about which I had heard; so -at the 600-foot level we got out and went along a long drive until we -came to what looked like a hanging ladder. If I wanted to see the famous -stope I had to mount this ladder. It was very narrow, and I felt rather -dubious of my climbing powers; however, it was only about 60 feet high, -so I ventured. I climbed up very carefully and got into the stope quite -safely. After walking along for a few feet I found we had to bend down -to get along; next we came to a small aperture through which we had to -creep; then we could not walk any more, but had to go on our hands and -knees, like our Darwinian ancestors. I had not bargained for this, but -having come down below to go over the 1500-foot stope, I went on. So, -gradually creeping and sometimes walking doubled up, we got to the end -where the men were working. They all threw down their picks and spades -and looked in amazement at me coming along that stope; they never did -it. There was a ladder over 100-ft. long by which they went up and down -to their work. I had been told about this ladder, but I felt afraid of -the 100 feet ascent, and preferred walking, as I thought, through the -stope. I must here explain that the stope was originally quite deep -enough for any one to walk comfortably in, but after the lodes—mineral -veins containing ore—have been taken out, the stopes are filled in with -refuse tailings, which have been treated by cyanide, and later thrown out -for refuse and used as filling-in stuff. Of this I had traversed 1500 -feet, bumping my head innumerable times against the hanging wall. Oh! -I was tired, and the worst of it was that I had to go back, or else go -down in mid-air on a 100-foot ladder. After sitting on a boulder for a -few minutes’ rest, and accepting many compliments from the miners about -my courage, I decided to descend the ladder, which I did in fear and -trembling, but got safely to the bottom, for which I felt duly thankful; -and we went down to another level, and saw much more rich stone waiting -to be taken up; then up to the 400-foot, where the sulpho-telluride ore, -worth 10 ounces to the ton, was being taken out; then to the 200-foot -level, where the rich oxidised ore is. There is a million’s worth of ore -at sight here, and yet in the first year of the mine’s existence many -shares were forfeited for non-payment of 6_d._ calls. The market value is -now over £2,000,000; production of gold, 304,848 ounces. - -[Illustration: Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine] - -After coming up from the Ivanhoe Mine, a telephone message was given -me that the underground manager, Mr. Flynn was waiting at the Boulder -Perseverance Mine to show me over that. So, hastily untying my horse, who -had been taking his food under the shade of the offices of the Ivanhoe, -I hurriedly drove over to the Boulder Perseverance, and after making a -change in my toilet, such as was necessary, jumped into the cage and went -swiftly down to the 300-foot level. Here we stopped and walked through -the long drive to the stopes, where much richness was to be seen; it was -a veritable jewellers’ warehouse. Mr. Flynn gave me a pick and told me -I could knock out some sulphide ore for myself, which I did, and many -beautiful specimens from this mine are in my collection. While here I -heard a tremendous rumbling noise, and thought the mine was falling in. -On inquiry I found that the miners were blasting rock 200 feet below us -at the 500-foot level. I expressed a wish to go there, and Mr. Flynn said -it would not be safe for half an hour, and then I should have to go down -in a bucket, as the cage only went to the 300-foot level. After walking -all over the stopes on this level we went up to the 200-foot level, and -I saw all the wonderful oxidised ore. I learned much during my travels -underground. Oxidised ore is always found on the top levels. At a depth -of 300 feet the sulphide ore, which contains telluride, is reached. - -Going through the various drives we often met miners walking along to -different parts of the mine. We were all carrying candles, so could -peer into each other’s faces, and the look of surprise on some of them -at seeing a strange lady rambling about underground was quite amusing. -Then we would come on a group of workmen at a stope; then sounds of the -rock-drill would make me curious to go in its direction. The heat is -fearful in places where the rock-drill is at work making holes for the -dynamite charge which is to blast out tons of rock. The men were just -going to begin a new hole, so I asked to be allowed to start it. The -sensation was like an electric battery; I held the drill too tight, I -suppose. However, I persevered for fully five minutes, and when we looked -at the machine I was told I had drilled quite a quarter of an inch of -rock, so I felt very proud, especially as they told me no lady had ever -touched the rock-drills down here before. - -[Illustration: Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine] - -By this time I was ready to go down in the bucket, so we took another -walk of about a quarter of a mile along the drive to another shaft called -Lane’s Shaft, named after Mr. Zebina Lane. In this shaft was the bucket. -Never having been in a bucket before for the purpose of a downward -journey of 200 feet I felt a tiny bit nervous. However, the journey was -perfectly safe, and when I arrived at the bottom I saw a grand sight -which I shall never forget. There was still much smoke hanging about from -the blasting. Some 20 men with candles alight were waiting about in the -gloom, some of them partly black from handling powder. Over 70 tons of -sulphide ore had just been blasted out, and lay about in great pieces -and boulders. The cave—for such it looked—fairly sparkled with richness, -the different minerals in the sulphide rock shining like diamonds. I -climbed over the great boulders and went all over the stope, picking out -any sparkling bits that took my fancy, and a miner was sent on ahead to -try the sides for fear of any loose rock falling on me. The lode here is -41 feet wide, and very rich indeed. It was pretty rough climbing, I can -assure you, but I would not have missed it on any account. On the return -journey I went up the entire 500-foot shaft in the bucket, and although -deeply interested by all I saw, I was not sorry to breathe once more in -the sunshine away from dynamite and rocks. - -Some idea of the wealth of this mine may be given by the fact that the -last shipment from the western lode averaged 17 ounces per ton. The -high-grade oxidised ore in the upper levels, of which I spoke before, is -an immensely rich body of mineral, continuing in richness for an eighth -of a mile. Another lode, on a lower level, near the Lake View Consols, -is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, and so phenomenally wide and -rich that even Americans, who are generally apt to throw cold water on -our mines, admit that its equal is unknown in the world; in fact, the -Boulder Perseverance shows every sign of becoming the richest mine on the -field, for the more it is opened up the better it looks and the richer it -becomes. - -Mr. Zebina Lane and Mr. Frank Gardner, besides controlling the Boulder -Perseverance, the Boulder Bonanza, Great Boulder South, and other rich -mines in Western Australia, have more recently taken over Hannan’s Public -Crushing Company, Central Australian Exploration Syndicate, and Collie -Coalfields, lately floated with a capital of £150,000. At the banquet -given to Mr. Lane last year previous to his departure for London, he said -that on this coalfield there was enough coal at sight to last the colony -for 20 years. It was Mr. Lane who in 1893 placed the now wonderful -Great Boulder Mine before London investors. The Boulder Perseverance -Mine shares could at that time be bought for a few shillings, now they -are of high value, and Mr. Lane has made a large fortune out of his -various mining transactions. Among the properties in Western Australia -turning out among them the enormous quantities of gold of which we know, -the properties partly controlled by Mr. Lane have turned out nearly -half. Western Australia has no truer friend than he; he battled on -behalf of the colony for years before prosperity came; went all over the -goldfields, endured all kinds of hardships on the arid plains, and earned -his success fairly. The other two gold mines on the Kalgoorlie field -belonging to the British Westralia Syndicate, and under the part control -of Mr. Lane, namely, the Great Boulder South and Boulder Bonanza, are -lower down the field, over the Golden Hill, and near the Great Boulder -and Lake View Consols. The aforesaid mines join each other, and no -doubt the continuation of the famous lodes of these great mines will be -eventually picked up by the Great Boulder South and Bonanza. The diamond -drill is being used to advantage, and great things may be looked for in -the future from its developments. - -The British Westralia Syndicate was formed by Messrs. F. L. Gardner and -Zebina Lane in October 1894, and registered on the 6th of that month -with a capital of £80,000 fully paid-up shares, the Syndicate really -consisting of only four members, the other two being the late Mr. Barney -Barnato and Mr. Woolf Joel, who was assassinated in Johannesburg. - -Since the incorporation of the company, regular dividends of 50 per -cent. per annum have been paid, and last year a 50 per cent. bonus was -divided in addition. As I said before, the shares now stand high in the -market, and show every likelihood of rising to £20. The Syndicate’s -palatial offices in Moorgate Street are, if not the finest, one of the -finest suites in the city of London. Mr. F. L. Gardner is the chairman -of the company, and Mr. Z. Lane the managing director and superintending -engineer. - -In addition to the above-mentioned mines, Mr. Lane has recently taken in -hand three properties in the Nannine country, Upper Murchison, all of -which have developed into paying properties and are making good returns. - -Mr. F. L. Gardner, chairman of the British Westralia Syndicate and -its offshoots, has long been associated with Australian mining, but -was drawn into West Australian ventures by his old friend Zeb. Lane. -His speculations in Great Boulder, Perseverance, Lake Views, Crushing -Company, Boulder South, and the ever-increasing dividend-paying British -Westralia Syndicate, have amply repaid him for his courage. - -An American by birth, with all the strength of mind and will of a big -investor, he is a tower of strength in the market, known as a man -of strict integrity and sound financial position, being in fact a -millionaire, he has now the strongest following in London, and with Mr. -Zebina Lane to engineer the mines which he controls, will soon be, if he -is not already, the biggest man in the Western Australian Market, which -more particularly concerns this book and this colony than any other -market in which he may operate. Pity it is, for the sake of Western -Australia, that we have not more combinations of such straight-going men -as these two have proved themselves to be; then the investing public -would have more confidence in mining speculations, and would certainly -have, in horse-racing phraseology, a run for their money. - -[Illustration: _Frank Gardner_] - -Mr. Z. Lane, generally known as “Zeb.,” may be described as the pioneer -of successful gold-mining in Western Australia. Born, brought up, -and educated to the mining industry, he for many years successfully -managed the great silver mines of Broken Hill, New South Wales, and was -unanimously elected the first mayor of that city when it grew into a -municipality. He left Broken Hill in 1893, and paid an extended trip -to Western Australia, where, after careful examination, he fixed on -what is now known as the Golden Mile; but as Western Australia was then -so little known, he had difficulty in getting working capital for the -various holdings and had to drop some of them, but pinned his faith to -the Great Boulder and the Perseverance (certainly two of the best), and -floated them both in London amongst his own friends. He started the first -10 stamps on the Boulder on April 10, 1895, afterwards increasing them -by degrees to 30, and has since that date been instrumental in shipping -over 15 tons of gold from the mines under his individual control—surely -a wonderful record in a new waterless country, with so many difficulties -to be contended with! He is a man of few words, but of iron will -and determination, and is one of the most popular men in Western -Australia—has been repeatedly asked to allow himself to be elected to -Parliament and to the Mayorial Chair of Perth, but prefers to look after -his mining interests. Perhaps he is quite right in doing so. He is a -Justice of the Peace for every colony in Australia, is a good public -speaker and debater, and will be greatly missed in Western Australia -should he decide to settle down in London, as many of his co-directors in -the various companies are anxious that he should do. - -[Illustration: Hannan’s Public Crushing Company] - -Crossing another road I came to the Brookman Boulder, a very fine mine. -Mr. Brookman has amassed a large fortune and settled in Perth, and is -spending his money where he made it, instead of going away to other -countries to live, as most of the lucky people do. Mr. Brookman and -Captain Oats recently paid a visit to Ballarat, the Queen Gold City of -Victoria, and at a banquet given in his honour, Mr. Brookman said that in -a few years Kalgoorlie would, no doubt, be as fine a city as Ballarat, an -opinion with which I most emphatically agree. I must mention that this is -one of the places that caused such a stir in the world fifty years ago, -on account of the wonderful goldfinds there. - -Two of the largest nuggets found in the district were the Welcome in -1858, weight 154 lbs., value £8872; and the Welcome Stranger in 1869, -weight 190 lbs., value £9000. I trust this digression will be pardoned. - -[Illustration: Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House] - -There are two large and splendidly furnished clubs here, namely, Hannan’s -and Kalgoorlie for the well-to-do, and several institutes, affording -opportunities for reading and recreation to the miners. I must not forget -to mention the fine park, cricket ground, and racecourse. - -Having finished my journey round the wonderful mines, I feel how poor -has been my description of them. It has been almost impossible even to -mention half the important discoveries that have been made in these -marvellous chambers of the earth. I have tried to explain some of the -developments that stand out most strikingly. The rapid progress that is -being made in all ways makes it quite safe to say that what has already -been done is as nothing to what will be done in the future, and that -by the time the new century is a few years old, and all the latest -processes of extracting gold from the ores are in full swing, we may hear -of such great returns as will amaze the most incredulous. As I go along -the three miles between Boulder City and Kalgoorlie, and think of the -wonders I have seen, it seems quite safe to say that very soon the whole -three miles will be covered with buildings and the predicted population -of 300,000 an actual fact. - -The scale of wages on the field is as follows:— - - MINE MANAGERS’ ASSOCIATION SCALE. - - OCCUPATION. RATE PER DAY. - _s._ _d._ - Timbermen 13 4 - Rock-drill men 13 4 - Miners (wet) 13 4 - Bracemen 11 0 - Truckers 10 6 - Blacksmiths 15 0 - Labourers 10 0 - Carpenters 15 0 - Millmen 13 0 - Batterymen 11 8 - Battery boys 8 4 - Engine drivers, 1st 13 4 - Pitmen 16 8 - Assistants 12 6 - Miners (dry) 11 8 - Plattmen 11 0 - Tool sharpeners 13 4 - Strikers 11 0 - Draymen 11 8 - Fitters 15 0 - Masons 15 0 - Feeders 10 0 - Cranide labourers 11 8 - Engine drivers, 2nd 11 8 - -There are more than 6500 men working in the Kalgoorlie mines, and over -£28,000 weekly is paid in wages. The cable from the Government to the -Agent-General for Western Australia, London, October 1901, gave the -crushing returns of the colony for that year as 1,580,950 ounces, valued -at £6,007,610, making a total gold production of £27,726,233 sterling. -Several millions of money have been paid to the shareholders of the -various mines in dividends since the Adelaide and Coolgardie Syndicate -took up the ground at the Boulder, and that ground, which was chaffingly -alluded to by the prospector’s friends as a “sheep farm,” has certainly -produced many “golden fleeces.” - -The Kalgoorlie field has yielded in its short life over thirty-one -tons of gold, Western Australia’s total output since it first entered -the world’s list as a gold-producer in 1886 is sixty-two tons of solid -gold; now, with the new machinery that is being erected, with the latest -methods for extracting gold from ore, it will not be surprising if the -output from each of our golden giant mines should shortly be doubled. -In all the mines I have been down there is enough amazingly rich ore at -sight to keep the crushing stamps going for years. Miners should be proud -of having brought Western Australia into the position of the greatest -gold-producing country in the world. - -The Witwatersrand, South Africa, has but a narrow belt of gold-producing -country, thirty miles long. In Western Australia the auriferous belt is -over one thousand miles in length, and three hundred miles in width, and -out of a territory of 975,920 square miles, the area of the goldfields is -324,111 square miles. Bear raids and slumps may come and go, unscrupulous -speculators may cause depression in the share market through bad reports -for their own gain, “but the gold is here,” and energy, pluck, and -perseverance, will overcome all the difficulties there may be to obtain -it, in this truly golden West. - - - - -[Illustration: Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna] - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - - Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father - Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong. - - -Looking at the town of Kanowna, White Feather, at the present time, one -can hardly believe that two years ago there were 20,000 people there. It -is now a quiet settled little town, the outskirts riddled with holes, -like an immense rabbit warren. Even what was once the large cemetery is -now dug up in all directions, with just a little plot fenced in where -burials had really taken place. The other portion, which, owing to the -richness of the surrounding ground, was thrown open for digging, had, of -course, not been used for burial purposes. I first went to Kanowna in -November 1897, at the commencement of the great rush. I wanted to see -a rush on the spot, and accordingly started one morning by coach from -Kalgoorlie. On arrival at Kanowna, quite a stranger, I had to carry my -own portmanteau around and look for a hotel to stay at. There was no -sign of a man about the little town. I afterwards found that all the -men were up at the Lead, as it was called. At this time there were only -three hotels in the town, now there are more than twelve. I was fortunate -enough to secure the only vacant room in Donnelon’s Hotel; so, after -getting off some of the red dust of the 12-mile coach ride I started -for the said Lead, about half a mile from the hotel. When I first saw -it I was amazed, not only at the number of tents and bough-houses, the -thousands of windlasses at work, the thousands of men with tin dishes -washing the ore for gold, the thousands of cradles (not babies’) being -rocked for the same purpose, but at the thousands of men rushing about in -all directions in a state of wild excitement. People at that time came -from all directions to see the wonderful alluvial field—miners to take -up claims, speculators to buy out claims, men to buy gold, men to buy -ore, and plenty of people only as spectators, who wanted to see the gold -as it was washed off. In this, however, they did not always succeed, for -those men who had time to do it had made bough-sheds and pitched tents, -and had their cradles inside, where they could wash their ore in privacy, -and not let everybody know how many ounces would go to the dish. It was -my good fortune to make friends with many of the mining-parties and to -see the gold washed off, often 8 and 10 ounces to the tin dish. Many -nice little slugs were given me by those kindly miners as a souvenir of -my visit. Many days in succession I visited the Lead, as it was called; -much kindness did I receive, and many a billy of tea was boiled for my -refreshment. - -At the beginning of the Lead the first claim was held by Sim and Gresson; -the latter joined the second Australian Contingent, and has since been -fighting for our Queen in Africa. George Sim, the original finder of the -rich cement ore, told me that he had worked there for 18 months, with -very poor results, and yet felt sure of ultimate success, so that he was -not surprised when one day he “struck it rich,” as the miners’ saying -goes, and since then he and his partners have been taking out cement, -full of rich gold, as fast as pick and shovel can dig, and have taken -over £10,000 worth of gold out of their ground. The next claim, held -by Morris, Long, and party, also turned out very rich. From 60 tons of -cement they obtained 555 ounces of gold, 200 ounces of this being taken -from the dish, that is, obtained merely by washing the stuff in the -dish and picking out the gold; the rest was treated at the battery. The -cement is a greenish-looking stuff, more like pipeclay than anything I -have ever seen. Most of it crumbles up in the hand when touched, and the -gold is plainly visible, but there are occasionally some hard lumps as -well. There were hundreds of other claims around here, notably that of P. -McManus, Huntington, and party. Poor Paddy McManus has since joined the -great majority. He was one of the best and kindliest of men on the field -and was regretted by all. This claim yielded an enormous quantity of -gold. Then Tassy O’Connor, Doyle, and party’s claims, called the Arctic -Circle and Klondyke, yielded the partners a fortune each. Ninety tons -crushed for Jackson and party yielded the handsome return of 497 ounces -of gold. At Casey’s Claim, the day I was there, they had just washed -off some wonderfully rich coarse gold. They had about 40 ounces of the -precious metal in a frying-pan, no other article being available to hold -it since all the tin dishes were required for gold washing purposes. Some -nice pieces of gold, running to about 27 dwts., are often found in these -dishes. - -[Illustration: Deep Lead, Kanowna] - -These claims, with numbers of others just as rich, were on the Main, -or Fitzroy Lead; on the right, and to the north, was the North Lead, -where more riches have been found. Eaton and party refused a large sum -for a ninth interest in their claim; they were making hundreds a week, -and none of them felt disposed to sell out. Close to this claim was the -famous Donegal. While I was there four buckets of ore were brought to the -surface thick with gold, and when washed were found to contain nearly -300 ounces. There was great excitement on the Lead that day, although -the miners keep things of that sort as much as possible to themselves. -It is reckoned that £12,000 worth of gold has been obtained from this -claim alone. The Red, White and Blue Company have also taken phenomenal -quantities of gold from their claim near the Donegal, about £600 or £700 -worth of gold having been taken from the earth every week. Many of these -men who had now struck such wonderful good luck had previously worked for -years for what in mining parlance is called “tucker” (food). No doubt -pluck and perseverance are the two essentials required, and if everybody -could see the 12,000 miners on Kanowna field as I saw them, and could -hear of all the hardships that the majority of them had endured prior -to striking this rich field, no one would deny that their good fortune -was deserved. Another very rich lead was called the Golden Valley. Here -the ore chiefly obtained was that called “pug”; it proved very rich, but -there was great difficulty in extracting the gold from it until a special -process was discovered. The Death Valley and Cemetery Claims also proved -to be very rich. Enormous quantities of gold were taken from Kanowna -in 12 months; but it is difficult to obtain really accurate returns of -an alluvial field, as many miners keep quantities of their gold, while -others carry it away and sell it at different places; but I saw with my -own eyes the enormous richness of the field, and, if I never see another -alluvial rush, shall consider I was in luck when I saw Kanowna, not only -because of the information I received, the money I made by being advised -in what to speculate, but for the mere sake of seeing the place as it was -in the full tide of its golden glory. There were no very large nuggets at -this rush, but about two years before, at a place called Black Flag, one -weighing 303 ounces was found; it was called “The Joker.” In company with -it were four other nuggets and a piece of quartz containing 60 ounces of -gold. The Joker was an exceptionally bright piece of gold, three-cornered -in shape, with a bit out of one base. The other nuggets weighed 73 -ounces, 51 ounces, 37 ounces, and a little over 10 ounces respectively. -All of this gold was found at a depth of 6 feet, and in the course of one -week’s work, the total weight being 537 ounces. One day all Kanowna and -the surrounding country were roused to a state of tremendous excitement -by the report spread by Father Long, the parish priest, that an enormous -nugget, weighing 1636 ounces, valued at £6500, had been found close by, -and had been named the Sacred Nugget, or the “Golden Sickle.” When the -news reached Koolgarlie and Coolgardie, parties were organised, horses -and buggies, cabs, carts, bicycles, and every other available vehicle -taken possession of, and thousands of persons started for Kanowna field. -In the meantime no authentic information could be obtained in Kanowna -as to the place from which this tremendous lump of gold had come, the -lucky finders keeping that a profound secret. However, search-parties -were organised, and set off to look for the spot whence the nugget came, -some one having given the slight clue: “It was near the Dry Lake.” Off -the parties went to the neighbourhood indicated, and a very lively drive -they had. It took an hour to reach the Lake, and there a consultation -took place. It was decided to skirt along the Lake, but nothing came in -sight except a boundless track of low bush. Another halt took place, when -a journalist among the search-party, more venturesome than the rest, -climbed a steep hill, and at once gave a loud “Hullo!” Every one thought -the object of the journey had been attained. The spy had discovered -tents some distance away. Off went the horses and vehicles at a hard -gallop. The tents were all a dream, however. There were no tents, and -there was nothing in sight. It was resolved to turn round and try in -another direction. At another likely spot a halt was again made, and here -occurred the most amusing incident. One of the vehicles had been left -by all its occupants except a lady. Everybody was engaged in individual -searching when a loud cry from the lady recalled every one to the drag. -Perhaps she had been more fortunate. “Look there!” said she; “look at -all these men running and shouting;” and lo and behold, about 200 men -were seen rushing down an adjacent hill toward the party, each with a -branch of a tree. It appeared, however, that the newcomers had only been -following the conveyances. Off went the vehicles again, down the Lake, -up the Lake, and round the Lake. Everywhere did these parties go, but -no gold or signs of habitation were seen. Father Long was besieged by -people, over 300 visiting his camp to find out where the lucky spot was, -but the priest said it was told to him under the seal, and he could not -divulge the spot. After searching all over the country near to Kanowna -no discoveries were made, and the searchers returned sadder but wiser -men. You may be sure Father Long came in for no small share of abuse from -thousands of disappointed people. The truth of this remarkable story has -never come to light, but it is quite certain that no such nugget was ever -found, no official notice of it having been recorded, and no bank ever -having had charge of it. Father Long has since passed away from earth and -nuggets, dying of typhoid fever in Perth Hospital in May 1899, and what -was his share in reporting the find will never now be known. Many people -are inclined to think that Father Long really thought he did see the -nugget, and therefore spoke of it in good faith. A version of the affair -given me by a good authority at Kanowna, after it had all blown over, was -that a certain party of men, who owned one of the richest claims in the -neighbourhood, had all the gold they had collected for some time at one -of the hotels and that one of the partners, an Irishman, placed all the -lumps and pieces of gold together in the form of a sickle, and called it -the “Golden Sickle,” the collection of pieces looking exactly like a huge -lump of gold. Father Long, being near at hand, was invited to see the -splendid specimen, which he immediately blessed and called the “Sacred -Nugget.” The partners did not undeceive him, but bound him to secrecy -concerning the names of the party who found it and the alleged locality -from whence it came. This promise poor Father Long faithfully kept, -thereby gaining for himself the condemnation of the multitude. None of -the partners were brave enough to own what they had done, and Father Long -had to bear the burden to the last. - -[Illustration: Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna] - -In those times Kanowna was a place never to be forgotten. At night, after -work was over, thousands of men used to flock into the little town, -and the three hotels being quite inadequate to their wants, grog-shops -existed in dozens and plied a big trade. I must say, however, that, -considering all things, Kanowna was in general strikingly orderly and -peaceful. Of course there were occasional fights. We witnessed several -from the balcony of the hotel, the only place where we could sit in the -hot summer evenings. The hotel was crowded, hundreds were unable to get -served, and men were waiting five deep in the bars; all drinks cost -1_s._ The hotel-keepers made rapid fortunes from the bars, and were, -besides, partners in claims on the Lead. Two hundred and thirty thousand -ounces of gold have been obtained from this great alluvial field. It -is well known that miners, more especially the prospectors, are very -kind-hearted and resourceful men. If they “strike it rich” they spend -money freely, and are generous to a fault to any old mates they may -meet who have not been so fortunate as themselves. It cannot be denied -that, for strong and able-bodied young men, life in the West, with its -freedom and many chances of good luck, is one not to be despised. Men -from surprisingly different classes are to be met on the goldfields, and -yet, so to speak, all classes are alike. I met during my travels on the -Lead several university men who were trying their luck with the pick and -shovel, and were not ashamed of their clay-stained moleskins. There are -a good many new chums (arrivals), easily recognisable. The nobility is -also represented; one trooper who was there belonged to a noble family -in England. Another, a sprig of Scotch nobility, was on one of the -large mines adjacent to Kanowna, and was said to be a fine fellow and -universally liked. One meets quite a large proportion of men and women -recently arrived from the old country, who seem always to make for the -goldfields by preference, while most Australians seem to love the towns -and want to stay there. There are several deep-level mines within a short -distance of Kanowna, none of them, however, calling for special mention, -with the exception of the White Feather Main Reefs, which occasionally -gives a good yield, and the managers of which look on it as having better -things still in store; recent crushings have been highly satisfactory, -and future ones are expected largely to increase the profits of the -shareholders. - -Bulong is a mining township 12 miles from Kanowna, and as several good -finds have been made there, one of 500 ounces of gold, I should not be at -all surprised to hear of a more sensational find some day, followed by -the inevitable rush. The Queen Margaret Mine has given good returns, and -there are a number of men on the alluvial ground who make a good living, -and a little to spare, all the year round. The ground has not been -thoroughly prospected yet, and its worth remains to be decided. Sixteen -miles from Bulong, at Black Hills, two men, who had been prospecting, -lately came across a nice little find of 2000 ounces of gold from a few -tons of quartz. The usual subsequent rush to rich finds of course took -place. In October 1900 a large nugget weighing 13 lb. was found by a man -named Eddy, at Kurnalpi, about 40 miles from here, not 200 yards from -the place where the nugget weighing 168 ounces was found the year before -by John Symonds. Kurnalpi has been one of the richest districts of the -goldfields, and who knows how soon some still more sensational finds may -startle us all! - - - - -[Illustration: Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow] - - - - -CHAPTER XX - - Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in the - Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and - Cake—Native Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat of - the Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh Water. - - -I went back to Kalgoorlie this time by train, the railway having now been -open over twelve months; stayed at Wilkie’s Hotel, opposite the station, -and found it most comfortable as well as convenient. Wilkie Brothers, who -were the successful tenderers for the Coolgardie Railway (which brought -them a profit of £300,000) own this hotel. The next morning I set out for -more goldfields, and arrived at the Menzies after an interesting journey -through various small townships, Paddington and Broad Arrow being the -best. There are some large mines at Paddington giving excellent returns. -Broad Arrow, a very nice little place, has lately been the scene of an -alluvial rush, and the usual population of 300 was quickly increased -to 3000. There are a post-office, four hotels, several stores, and a -good many shops, as well as some nice dwelling-houses. It is now a very -thriving place of some importance and a scene of bustling activity. -Shops which a short time ago would not let at any price now command such -rents as their owners scarcely dreamed would ever be possible. There -are several very rich claims which have bottomed on rich gold; in fact, -gold is everywhere. The extent and value of the golden ground can only be -conjectured. One claim, called the Blue Duck, was exceptionally good; so -is the Maltese Cross; while the Bird’s Nest is a veritable golden hole. -The names of these claims struck me as being very peculiar; another rich -one, owned by men who, until they struck this, had had a continued stream -of ill-luck, is called the Battlers’ Reward, and indeed they richly -deserved their splendid find, the gold from which stands out to the wash -in halfpenny-weight pieces. - -Farther along the line is Bardoc, from which place much rich gold has -been won. It was at Bardoc that an accident recently happened in one of -the mines, a poor man being killed by five tons of rock falling on him. - -Twenty-six miles before we reached Menzies was Goongarrie, which a few -years ago made a great sensation in the mining world. - -[Illustration: Part of Lady Shenton Battery] - -Menzies was the nicest small mining town I had seen. There was a -wonderful air of prosperity about it. As I walked up the principal -street it seemed almost to say, “This is a good place,” and the people -were extremely kind to the stranger in their midst. Until quite recently -Menzies was one of the “back-block” towns, only accessible by coach from -Kalgoorlie, a distance of 90 miles. The people in what we Australians -call coach-towns always seem more genial and warm-hearted than those -who can pop into a train and be whirled along to the metropolis, and -Menzies only having had the train service recently has not had time to -get spoiled. I think it is because of their isolation that people in -these places, as a rule, hail strange faces with more pleasure than -others do. There are some very nice houses in Menzies, and the hotels -are especially good. The Grand Hotel (I can speak from experience) is a -model of comfort. A very well-built post-office and court-house adorn the -town, and there are many other substantial buildings in the place, which -is, no doubt, a most important centre of business and industry, and -which has made great strides during the last twelve months, especially -since it received a new impetus from the advent of the railway. The -town is literally surrounded by mines, not only of gold; copper has -been found near in lodes of 50 feet wide, that bear 5 dwts. of gold as -well as 60 per cent. of copper. Menzies is quite a young town, and is -named after Mr. Menzies, the explorer, who, in 1894, went prospecting -from Kalgoorlie to see if he could discover any more Kalgoorlies. After -travelling some weeks he discovered some rich “shows,” and telegraphed to -the syndicate, of which Sir George Shenton and the Hon. H. J. Saunders -are head, to that effect. Application for ground was made and accepted, -and works afterwards commenced, with what success may be imagined from -the results of that noble mine the Lady Shenton, which, since 1897, -has paid 12 dividends of over £88,000, besides expending large sums of -money on machinery, &c. The Lady Shenton Mine occupies 36 acres of land. -There is a splendid electric-light installation, both on the surface and -underground, at the main shaft as well as in the crushing-sheds, and -in many other places where it is useful. The total output of the mine -is 97,278 ounces of smelted gold, exclusive of gold from tailings and -concentrates, the latter sometimes giving a very high percentage of gold, -since as much as 327 ounces had been taken from 73 tons when I was there; -14,000 tons of tailings were awaiting treatment. Some time ago, when Sir -Gerard Smith visited the mine, luncheon was served to the visitors in the -300-foot level. I happened to be at the Lady Shenton Mine at “crib” time, -and after “crib” the miners went out with their football to have a game -before beginning work again. They were fine looking specimens of colonial -manhood, and seemed thoroughly to enjoy their friendly game. - -The sleeping tents of the miners are some little distance from the mine, -but there were several dinner tents close by. The men form themselves -into little parties of five or six, taking it in turns to act as house -boy, or, as I should say, tent boy. In the day time the menu is cold, and -looking at the stock of tins of preserved meats (elegantly termed tinned -dog), fish, jam, milk, cake, and vegetables, it is easy to see that -they do not neglect their meals. Why should they, since they are in the -receipt of high and regular wages? - -The next large mine is the Queensland Menzies, from which there have -been large returns. There are some other first-class mines from which -great things are expected. Four miles from Menzies is Kensington, where -there are more good mines, also two splendid breweries. I next travelled -across the country for about four miles, all alone, with only the pony -I was driving for company; but happening, with my usual luck, to strike -the right track and not get lost, I came to the Four Mile, where there -is a little township (small settlement), and a magnificent mine called -the Menzies Consolidated. There are 120 men engaged on this mine, who -form quite a little colony by themselves. There is a fine tennis court, -where several of the officials of the mine were enjoying a game. Mrs. -Strickland, the sub-manager’s wife, insisted on getting tea and cake for -me, and seeing that my horse also was refreshed after the heat of the -day. On my way back to Menzies by another road, a metalled one this time, -I passed many prospectors and dry-blowers, who all seemed quite satisfied -with what they were getting. When I got in sight of Menzies I took a -short cut through the Bush, and found I had to pass through abandoned -alluvial diggings and several shut-down mines. I was glad to get back -again on to the hard road and to Menzies, for the shades of night were -falling fast. Next morning I learned from the paper that a murder had -been committed by natives and the body found near Kensington the day -before. I must have passed quite close to it, and am very glad I did not -see it. Many crimes are committed in these remote parts, the perpetrators -of which are never discovered. A long-standing mystery has just been -solved: a man named McInnes disappeared about two years ago; he was known -to be a thorough Bushman, and fora few days no notice was taken of his -disappearance. However, as he did not return search-parties went out to -look for him, but he was never found. Shortly after his supposed death -his brother came from Victoria, took charge of his affairs, and vowed -that he would never leave the colony until he had solved the mystery of -his brother’s disappearance. This has apparently been done by a blackboy -named Tiger, who found the skeleton of a man at the Bullarchi Rocks, 12 -miles off, and Mr. McInnes, the brother of the missing man, being sent -for, identified the remains as those of his long-lost brother. The poor -fellow had evidently, in Western vernacular, “done a perish,” like so -many others, in the course of searching for gold. - -An extraordinary meteor was witnessed here a short time ago. A -magnificent ball of fire shot across the heavens from the north-west to -the north-east, leaving an almost straight trail of light behind it. At -the head of this trail of light appeared a ball of fire, which became -gradually diffused around the luminous trail or meteor in convolutions -resembling the movements of a serpent. For some moments the display -bore a likeness of a pillar of light with a serpent twined around it. -Gradually this semblance was transformed into the figure of a man -standing upright, with his arms partly spread and his hands clasped. -This form grew gradually into an attitude as if the figure were about -to spring, the head and shoulders being inclined forwards and the legs -slightly drawn up, and in this attitude it remained till the luminosity, -gradually becoming paler, was absorbed in the silver light of the -breaking day. Altogether the phenomenon lasted from 10 to 15 minutes. - -[Illustration: MESSRS. A. FORREST AND J. DUNN ON A PROSPECTING TOUR] - -To the west of Menzies is Mulline, where there are some very rich mines. -Mr. De Baun, of Perth, has a mine there from which he recently brought -to Perth a very nice little cake of gold weighing 447 ounces, valued at -£1700. Then on the east side there are Yerilla, Pendinnie, and Eujidine; -here the Nita Mine, lately called the North Fingall, has recently had a -fine crushing. At Pendinnie, 120 miles from Menzies, a find lately took -place, and the scene along the road was a repetition on a smaller scale -of the rush to the Boulder a few years ago. Camel and horse teams crowded -the way, and everybody was smitten with the feverish race to get to the -promising spot; nothing stupendous has yet been found, but the place is -good and fair results have been obtained. The Waihi Mine, about 32 miles -from Menzies, is one of the latest sensations, and promises to be of -great value. Much of the stone is being broken out, showing rich gold, -and, on being tested, gave results from 6 to 20 ounces per ton. Although -only discovered in October 1900, the lucky prospectors in November were -offered £20,000 for the mine by a syndicate, and since then a company has -been floated and over a hundred thousand shares taken up. - -I went on by coach to Mount Malcolm from Menzies. Certainly there was not -much but sand and scrub to be seen in the way of scenery. We arrived at -Niagara, the end of the first 30-mile stage, quite ready for dinner at 1 -o’clock. This little place did not present a very attractive appearance; -in fact, it was most remarkably dull looking. The mining district of -Niagara is scattered, but there are some good mines about. After the -60-mile coach drive I was very pleased to see the lights of the little -town of Mount Malcolm appear, which is the most typical mining place I -have ever seen. As I strolled down the one street in the morning I said -to myself, “I am indeed getting away from town life, and shall now see -real mining business to my heart’s content.” The coach journey is indeed -terrible, the road being almost one sand patch, and the horses having to -walk a great part of the way, so the sooner the railway comes the better -for all parties concerned. There seemed to be some grass growing about -Malcolm, which was quite a fresh sight for me, and I am sure a boon for -the horses and their owners in these parts, where fodder is so expensive. -Then the beautiful supply of fresh water is a blessing to every one, -and a great aid to the development of the country, the work of digging -for gold being rendered so much easier than in the sterile wastes of -country where water is scarce. Mount Malcolm might almost be called -Windmill Town, on account of the windmills over the wells; nearly all -the public-houses and many private places have their own water supply. -The gold escort had just gone down, taking the month’s gold to Perth. -I saw it start from the post-office, which is quite a nice large one -for a mining township. The warden’s offices, or court-house, are nearly -opposite—such a funny place!—just two Hessian tents with bough-sheds -built over to protect them from the sun. (A new warden’s office has -since been built.) There is no lock-up here, so any one who misbehaves -is chained to a small tree not far from the court-house and left there -all night. This seemed to me a custom more fit for the barbarous dark -ages than this enlightened century. A little while ago a man was chained -up for being intoxicated. It appears he woke from his tipsy sleep in the -night and felt very thirsty. He tried to get the chain off his leg, but -could not. The tree they had chained him to that night did not happen to -be firm enough in the ground, for he pulled and pulled until he got it -uprooted, and then made his way down the street to an hotel, dragging -chain and tree after him, and with his blanket fluttering in the wind -made night hideous with his cries and woke the whole town with his noise. -As the authorities could not give him a month under the tree for this, -they packed him off in the coach next morning to the nearest gaol. - -There are not many mines in the immediate vicinity of Malcolm. The -Richmond Gem was under exemption, also at that time under a cloud, but it -had been a good mine, and will, no doubt, recover itself. Another large -mine about half a mile out is the North Star, where very good results -have been obtained. There are many men employed here, and on Saturday -nights they come into Malcolm and make the little township lively. A -novel procession passed up the street while I was there; it was a new -engine for the Malcolm Mohr battery, drawn by 14 horses, and caused quite -a flutter of excitement. Malcolm was comparatively quiet, as there was a -rush to Mertonville, 18 miles off. - -The ex-Premier, at a recent visit, said that when he was last in the -district, 30 years ago, he stood on and named Mount Malcolm, and in -those days never thought that it would be the centre of a great mining -district. On the earlier occasion he was at the head of a small exploring -expedition sent to see whether the reports of the natives that white men -had been murdered there were true; it was thought that these white men -might be members of Leichhardt’s expedition. - -During my stay at Mount Malcolm I was shown many really beautiful -specimens by the managers of some of the principal mines. Many of these -were from deep levels, and would, I am sure, much surprise many people -who are sceptical about the richness of the mines in these parts. I -received some very pretty little specimens, souvenirs of my visit, -which I shall always value very much. There is no lack of money; every -one appeared to be well off. The following story may serve to show -what a lucky miner will sometimes do after he has had a good crushing -or found some good specimens. A man who had unearthed a nice slug—30 -ounces—in the Lake Way district came into Malcolm for a spree, and on -one occasion, while drinking “not wisely, but too well,” he upbraided -the Hebe behind the counter for wiping the glasses with an old towel. -The delinquent pleaded poverty as an excuse, and straightway the accuser -threw down ten sovereigns and suggested the purchase of a new towel. -Another man at another township, who had a splendid claim, and had taken -over £2000 worth of gold from it, has now not a penny, because every -time he realised on his gold he immediately spent the whole sum in the -hotels. As there are but two of these in the township, they have made -good profits from this man’s mine. When he has spent all his money, -the hotel-keepers put him into a cart and drive him out to the mine to -recover himself. After he has done so, he usually sets to work for a -month or two, and unearths some more nuggets for another spree (drunk). - -Shortly after breakfast a few friends and myself drove to some nice -gardens a little way from town. Although the weather was very warm, -everything was delightfully fresh and green, the flowers were smelling -sweetly, and the vegetables a perfect picture. What a blessing is -plenty of fresh water! Any quantity can be got here by digging a -well, and the experts from the Goldfields Water Supply Department, -who were here recently, say that the country between the hills is -really a subterreanean reservoir extending for miles. We drove on to -the Mount, which is five miles farther away. A splendid view of the -surrounding country for fully 30 miles is obtained from the Mount. The -Trigonometrical Station here is very interesting. We had lunch on the -very top of the hill, and returned to Malcolm in good spirits, having -passed a most enjoyable day. - -Daseyhurst, 35 miles from Menzies, is a coming goldfield, and North’s -Consolidated Blocks, owned by Mr. J. H. North and Mr. W. E. Millar, may -yet rival the fame of Great Westralian Mount Morgans, of which mine these -gentlemen were the pioneers. Mr. North has recently successfully floated -a company in London to further develop the North Consolidated, and we -expect to hear great things in the future from this promising mine. - - - - -[Illustration: Merton’s Find, Mertondale] - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - - A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold - everywhere—A Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! - Murrin!—A Welcome Surprise—Western Australian Mount - Morgans—Golden Hills—Blackfellows on the Trail—The Lagoon. - - -My investigations at Mount Malcolm took me some days, so, after a good -rest and pleasant time at that very lively little township, I started one -Friday, at 7 o’clock, for the new goldfield of Mertondale, to which there -was a rush. One morning Malcolm folk woke up to the startling news that -a new and phenomenal rush had begun 18 miles off. Soon everybody was on -the _qui vive_ to see it. All the vehicles in the township were loaded, -and the male population started _en masse_ for the new find. It turned -out to be a great one, and many stories have been told me concerning -the richness of it. There was nothing of great interest on the road to -Mertondale. A bough-shed off the road in the distance, pointed out to -me as the place where a prospector had lately chosen to shuffle off -this mortal coil by cutting his throat, and that just as his claim had -struck gold, was about all that varied the monotony of the journey. The -Australian Peer Mine was the first seen on the road. It was the one at -which Merton and Gallagher were working when Merton went out one day on -his bicycle to look for a lost horse and found the lucky hill which has -since yielded so much gold. Mr. Merton said that when he discovered it -he did not think it was so good, until he commenced breaking the stone -he picked up on it, and found in every instance that it contained gold. -After discovering the reef he applied for a lease, and put on two men to -work at carrying out the quartz. The stone had to be taken two miles to -the Waitekari Battery, but in the short space of two months £3206 worth -of gold was crushed. A short time afterwards, Mr. Merton, who was a poor -man at the time of the find, purchased a 20-head battery, and now crushes -the stone on the spot where it is found. The reef of solid quartz is 100 -feet wide, and traverses the whole of Merton’s area of 36 acres. He said -that he would want a higher price, cash down, for his holding than has -ever been paid for any mining property in Western Australia; so, from a -poor man, a few months have made this lucky prospector a millionaire. -On arriving at Mertondale the sound of the battery waked the stillness -of the morning. The township is very small as yet, merely a few Hessian -houses and tents, but I saw before me the hill, with the battery in full -work, in which I was interested. So I asked the driver of the coach to -take me there, which he did as a very great favour, for he was carrying -the mail and had not yet been to the Bush-house post-office. However, as -it was a very hot day, gallantry to the fair sex prevailed and the mail -had to wait. I got down from the coach at the foot of the hill, and at -the battery-house found Mr. Robinson, the manager, who kindly took me -round and showed me everything of interest. First he went to the spot -where Merton picked up the first rich stone. Plenty of it was still lying -about. We went down into the open cut (or quarries) where the men were -digging out the stone. I took a pick and dug out a piece myself, striking -rich gold at the first stroke. Several other pieces followed, and I keep -them as specimens. We then went down the underlay shaft, on the western -side of the big quarry. It was 12 feet deep. I got down by means of a -rope, two of the men at the bottom holding their spades against the sides -of the shaft for me to put my feet on. I managed to make a successful -descent and began to use the pick again with much success. I could see -the gold running through the rock quite plainly, so, having permission to -do so, dug out several nice pieces, after which I essayed to climb the -rope to the surface again, and, assisting myself by sticking my feet upon -the jutting pieces of rock on the sides of the shaft, I soon got out of -the rich hole. I then walked all over the hill and found many pieces of -quartz lying about, all containing gold. Mr. Robinson afterwards took me -to the battery and showed me the plates into which the gold and amalgam -run after being crushed by the mill. I scraped some of the rich stuff off -the plates; to my disappointment it looked like silver, but Mr. Robinson -explained to me that this colour is caused by the action of the mercury -used in the process, and that when smelted pure gold appears. Some idea -of the power of the mercury may be given by this fact: I put in paper -the piece which I had scraped off and placed it in my purse, in which -was a gold ring that I had just put there to take to be repaired. Next -morning, when I went to take it out, the gold ring was gone, but a silver -one remained. The jeweller had to retort it (put it in fire) to regain -its colour. Merton’s Hill is, no doubt, a perfect mine of wealth, and, -so far, all on the surface, as the deepest digging then was the 12-foot -shaft I have mentioned. Over £40,000 worth of gold had been taken out in -the few months since the beginning of the rush, besides fully 20,000 tons -of rich stone that will give 7 or 8 ounces to the ton, and as every ounce -is worth nearly £4, a nice little sum is looking at lucky Merton out of -the stone.[5] There are many other claims on the field, but the one on -the hill is the most valuable. It gives gold, gold everywhere. I was so -much taken with this wonderful place that I pegged out an 18-acre lease -for myself, and am hoping to strike a rich patch on it at some not far -distant day. In the Golden West one never knows when luck may come to one. - -It was great fun and hard work pegging out that lease. To enable one to -do so, in the first place one must be provided with a miner’s right, -which costs ten shillings per year; this document enables the holder -to take up any ground he or she desires (not previously taken) in -mining country; after the lease has been approved by the Warden of the -Goldfields, one may start and dig or put men on to dig, and the gold -found would be private property; if, however, any one dug and found gold -without these preliminaries, the precious metal would have to be handed -over to the Warden as the property of the Government. - -Behold me then (knowing all this, and having secured a miner’s right -before I left Perth) accompanied by some kindly miners and the lady under -whose roof (canvas) I was domiciled, with my sleeves tucked up and a -spade in my hands digging holes for the pegs to be put in, which must -be done personally; as it was an 18-acre lease the distance between the -four pegs was considerable, and required some walking to be done in the -hot and dusty morning. However, I successfully planted my pegs, marked my -number on them, and after paying the fees in the Warden’s Court at Mount -Malcolm on my return, I became a leaseholder. - -Another rich find had lately been made at Wilson’s Creek, 30 miles from -this place, by two prospectors named Paddy Crowley and Dick Donovan. Over -twelve months ago they found some alluvial gold there, but until a few -months since nothing phenomenal; then they found a lode at a depth of 10 -feet, with rich leaders running in all directions. One of the partners -went into Malcolm the other day with a bagful of specimens weighing 372 -ounces, and the other partner is digging out more as fast as he can. -Mr. Hamilton, of the Great Boulder Mine, Kalgoorlie, recently visited -Mertondale, and gave it as his opinion that the place would turn out a -second Great Boulder and the Flying Pig Mine a second Golden Horseshoe. -As yet all the gold obtained has been found near the surface, and if the -deposit continues down lower the possibility of incredible wealth lies -in this wonderful spot. As yet Western Australia’s surface seems only to -have been scratched in a few places. If the bodies of ore prove to go -down, Mertondale bids fair to outrival the Boulder, Kalgoorlie. - -[Illustration: MR. ALICK FORREST INSPECTING DUNN’S SHAFT NEAR MOUNT -MORGANS] - -The weather being intensely hot—109°—I decided to return to Malcolm in -the moonlight, and a friend succeeded, after a great deal of trouble (for -horses and vehicles are not yet very common here), in borrowing the only -horse on the field, and managed to get an old buckboard buggy to drive me -down. Camels are the usual mode of transit in this district, but I refuse -to ride these animals. - -Starting the next morning by coach from Malcolm at half-past five for -Westralian Mount Morgans, I was fortunate in having the box-seat of the -coach. A cool breeze had sprung up in the night, no doubt accompanied -by a willy willy, which, as I told you before, is a terrific whirlwind -of dust that sweeps along everything before it, and frequently carries -verandahs away bodily and deposits them on the roofs of adjoining houses, -besides removing tents as it passes. On arrival at a little hotel at 8 -o’clock I felt quite ready for breakfast, and wondered what kind of fare -we should get in these remote parts. Nearing the place, which rejoices -in the name of Bummer’s Creek, a fine vegetable garden surprised me. It -looked very refreshing to see the nice green garden after nothing but -sand and mulga-trees for 10 miles. On going into the hotel (a tin one) -evidences of comfort out of the usual order of “back-blocks” travelling -appeared. Many little dainties were on the table, and we were served with -an excellent breakfast, fresh eggs, fresh milk, and hot scones coming -on us as a complete surprise. There were two lady passengers besides -myself: Victorian girls who were on their way to an engagement at the -next hotel, where one of them was to be a “companion” at a weekly salary -of £2 10_s._ - -Twelve miles farther on we reached Murrin Murrin, where I stayed for a -day. Here I visited the Malcolm Proprietary, and was much interested in -the works and management of the mine, a fine one, giving good returns. -An interesting feature is the tailings hoist, worked by a compressed-air -plant. Returning to the Murrin Hotel for dinner, I was surprised at the -delicate way in which it was served, at a table with beautiful napery, -elegant silver, and glass ware. On becoming acquainted with the little -landlady, I was no longer surprised, for I found her a cultured lady, who -invited me to stay a few days as her guest, and I thoroughly enjoyed the -quiet change from the roughness to which I can never accustom myself. - -There is a great deal of copper about Murrin, and many copper mines are -being worked with good results, the Anaconda taking the first place. - -On arrival at Mount Morgans I found it quite a flourishing township. -Twelve months ago there were no houses, but now the place is increasing -wonderfully. The Westralian Mount Morgans Mine is less than a quarter of -a mile from the township, and is on a hill overlooking the surrounding -country. The large machinery on it made it look very imposing. From the -hill Mount Margaret is visible, a township now quite deserted, all the -houses having been bodily moved to Mount Morgans, and the hospital to -Laverton, another rising mining place, the former name of which, British -Flag, was changed to Laverton in compliment to Dr. Laver, who has been -mainly instrumental in bringing the place into prominence and attracting -an inflow of British capital. - -There are some very valuable mines here, as well as the Westralian Mount -Morgans, Guest’s Mine being the next in importance, and rapidly coming -to the fore as a gold-producer. A company in England has recently been -floated with a quarter of a million of money to deal with this mine. The -reefs are very large, and known to extend over 20 miles. The Westralian -Mount Morgans, which bids fair to be one of the biggest gold-producers -of Western Australia, is named after Mr. A. E. Morgans, the Member for -Coolgardie, the largest shareholder. There was an enormous quantity of -ore waiting to be crushed, and, although the gold is too fine to be seen -by the naked eye, it realises from ½ ounce to 3 ounces per ton. Thousands -of tons of this ore, sufficient to keep the battery going for five years, -are visible, waiting to be taken out. Occasionally some rich pockets of -gold are found, the rock simply glistening with the precious metal. The -output of this mine is very large, and nearly 200 workmen are employed. -Water for crushing purposes not being abundant, a pipe-line was laid -to an extensive lagoon 6 miles away, and now brings an ample supply. -The cyanide plant can treat 2500 tons of tailings monthly. Two thousand -cords of wood are neatly stacked by the mine ready for use, and more is -obtainable at a short distance. - -[Illustration: Westralian Mount Morgans Mine] - -The working-men’s club and library, a very nice building, built of -mud-bricks in their spare time by the men, who are very proud of it, -faces the mine. The term “mud-bricks” may need explanation: the bricks -are made from a kind of reddish soil found here, and when moulded into -shape look very well. - -The first hotel in Mount Morgans had just been opened when I was there. I -had great difficulty in getting accommodation, and was obliged to share -the room of the landlady’s daughter. The proprietor was doing a roaring -trade. There was a large dining-room, which was turned into a dormitory -at night. Visitors were constantly coming and going, so much being heard -on the lower fields of the recently wonderful finds. The post-office is -as yet a very primitive place, merely a canvas tent with a bough-shed -over it; but new buildings are going up in all directions as fast as -they can be built. Land brings a good price, plots now fetching as much -as £300 (which six months ago could have been got for the pegging out). -When a goldfield is proclaimed, the warden of the place gives permission -for people to take up ground for residential areas. Then comes a wild -rush to get in the first pegs. These pegs are to mark the ground which an -applicant desires to take up. When the warden’s permission was given, at -a court held at Mount Margaret, numbers of men hurried to Mount Morgans -to peg the best plots of land. Some went on bicycles, some on horses, and -those who arrived first of course got the best choice. One well-known -man had an old racehorse which he had “kept dark,” as they say, and he -outpaced them all and got the choicest plot on the township. He has since -erected the second hotel there, and sold it, I am told, for a very large -sum before it was completed. - -Very few women are yet on the field, and as I sat writing in the only -little parlour, all the male population seemed to walk past the open door -(the room being too small and hot to shut it) and to gaze at me as if I -were something rare and remarkable. - -With the exception of the few golden hills, the country was very flat, -and cyclists were constantly arriving. The country around Morgans is very -pretty in some parts, and there is plenty of nice grass growing. Every -coach coming up from Menzies was crowded with miners and prospectors, -who, having heard so much of this wonderful district, where a plentiful -supply of water is to be obtained, were getting out as fast as possible. -Not far from Mount Morgans, a mine, which is reported very rich, has -lately been discovered by Mr. Dunne, who found the Wealth of Nations Mine -at Coolgardie. Mr. Alick Forrest is largely interested, and lately paid -a visit of inspection to it. - -It is a very pleasant drive of six miles to the now deserted township -of Mount Margaret, and three miles farther on is the Mount itself, from -which a grand view of the country is obtained. The enormous Lake Carey -(salt) stretched far away in the distance. This is one of the innumerable -salt lakes of Western Australia, and with the glorious sun shining on it -it looks like a lake of gold. Sir John Forrest was the first white man to -set foot in this district, and stood on the Mount 30 years ago, when he -named it Margaret after his mother and his intended wife. - -As I returned to Mount Morgans in the cool of the evening, a very large -tribe of blacks (natives) appeared on the scene, but they were very -peaceful, and asked me for “bacca” and sixpence, which the king having -obtained, they all appeared satisfied. They were dressed in civilised -clothes, and looked quite fat. “White-man’s tucker,” as they call it, -and which they beg for as they go along, seemed to suit them. They -had just lit their camp fires. The aborigines’ means of fire lighting -is by wood friction, and as it takes a long time to get a spark they -usually carry fire-sticks, which keep alight a long time and save them -much trouble. They often bring into the townships or camps pieces of -gold which they have found in the bush, for they know they will receive -something, although they do not know the real value. They know, however, -the superior value of silver to copper, being aware that they can get -much more “bacca,” or food, for a silver piece than for a copper one, -and when they take their finds to any one, asking “how much this fella?” -meaning “what is it worth.” If it is a small find, and they are told the -value in pennyweights, they will say “Bael (no) pennyweight, that fella -shillingweight.” (The native, in his attempt to talk English, terms -nearly every person place, or thing “fella.”) They told me in their -broken way that this tribe had travelled from Kalgoorlie, and was going -to the Murchison, looking for a renegade blackfellow called “Kangaroo,” -who had transgressed their laws, and whom they meant to kill. Let us -hope, for “Kangaroo’s” sake, that they never found him. - -Mount Wilga is a very rich property which lies on the other side of Lake -Carey, is in a country that might almost be called undiscovered. But Mr. -G. W. Hall has discovered its richness, and sent up a manager and gang of -men, who are working away with great vigour. The lode is as big and rich -as any one could desire. Some of the ore from a good depth that has been -assayed has yielded 20 ounces to the ton; how much equally rich will be -got remains to be proved. - -Although the supply of water for mining purposes at Mount Morgans is not -adequate, there is plenty for domestic purposes, the wells sunk in many -parts of the township giving a good supply. In the rainy season, which, -however, seldom comes, the lagoon that supplies Westralian Mount Morgans -Mine with water is a huge lake, and teems with waterfowl. Kangaroos and -wallabies sport around its banks, and give great opportunities to the -sportsmen, who during other parts of the year have to let their guns lie -idle. - - - - -[Illustration: Mine at Laverton] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - - Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass - Widowers—More Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle - Nugget—Euro Mine—Hospitality in the Bush. - - -The coach to British Flag, or Laverton, turned out to be a large kind of -conveyance with three open seats and no cover; consequently, as the day -had been hot, I was glad when we drove into the township at 8 o’clock -in the evening, for I was fairly tired out. Every one in the place was -looking out for the mail, which only goes up three times a week. Several -gentlemen whom I had known in other parts of the colony were here, and -having heard that I was to arrive by this coach, were waiting to receive -me, and three pairs of stalwart arms were held out to help me down. I was -escorted into the hotel, and from the time I arrived until I left was the -recipient of so much attention from the numerous and kindly fellows as to -be almost bewildered. - -The very comfortable hotel was kept by three bachelors, one looking after -the hotel business and the other two after the store which they also -own. Wages up here are very high: cooks get £3 10s. per week, and two -young women, one of whom acts as housekeeper, while the other attends in -the bar, were receiving £5 per week! Another young woman was making a -small fortune by washing and mending the clothes of the gay bachelors, -who, having plenty of money, do not mind what they pay for work done -for them. The whole of the country seemed to be a vast auriferous area, -and thousands of miles of rich country higher up yet are absolutely -unprospected. - -Horses being very scarce, I was indebted to Mr. Campbell Shaw for the -use of his horse and buggy during my stay. Mr. Shaw drove me out to the -Augusta Mine, of which he is manager. This little mine is very rich, -and had just been bought from the three original prospectors for £2500 -in cash and 1300 shares. There was no battery there as yet, and so the -stone raised was taken to the Hawkes Nest Battery, 9 miles away, every -morning by a 60-camel train, the camels returning at night for their next -morning’s load. The country around is really pretty, and from the hill on -which the Augusta Mine stands you can see the houses at Mount Morgans, -20 miles off, through the clear air. Some very fine specimens have been -sent from this admirable little mine to the Glasgow Exhibition, and I was -fortunate to get some myself. The camps here were all very neat and tidy, -and yet there was not a woman on the mine, all the men being bachelors -or grass widowers. I intended to go down the shaft, but there had been -an accident the day before, and two young men had been injured—happily, -however, not very seriously—so I thought discretion the better part of -valour and did not go down. As no women were at the mine I volunteered to -do a little nursing by putting cold bandages on the injured men’s arms, -and making them nice cool lemon drinks, for which the poor fellows were -very grateful. - -Going back to Laverton, just as the sun was setting, I thought the -little township looked very flourishing. It is wonderful how quickly -these places spring up! A few months ago only a few tents marked the -spot which then was called British Flag. We stopped at Dr. Laver’s old -camp and surveyed the little township with wondering eyes, and two lucky -prospectors coming up gave me a pretty little nugget they had found that -day. These men had previously struck a patch in an abandoned shaft near -where they were camped a few miles out. They thought they would go down -and look all over it, and did so with such perseverance that they found -a leader. Following it up, they discovered it to be 18 inches wide, and -eventually came across a rich pocket from which they afterwards took -£4000 worth of gold. - -Driving into the township we went down to the post-office, not a Bush -one, but really a nice building. As it was the mail night all the folk -were there waiting for their letters. Most of the shops and houses are -built of galvanised iron, and are very hot during the day; but this -drawback has to be endured, for the place is in the Mulga country, where -the trees are very small and only fit for firewood, and the distances are -too great to bring timber from elsewhere. The Western Australian Bank had -a very nice place; it was one of the best buildings there. - -I was now over 600 miles from Perth, the capital, and had reached the -very last township in the Mount Margaret district. - -Erlistoun is another rising mining place, where there have recently -been some rich finds. It is 60 miles from Laverton. Several old -prospectors have been there for years, and have quite lost the customs of -civilisation, so much so, that one old man called Jack, on hearing that -one of the miners had brought his wife to the Erlistoun, and that she, -having a goat, had brought it up with her (at a terrible inconvenience, -as you may imagine), in order to have fresh milk in her tea, remarked: -“I shall pack my swag and go farther back, now that women and goats are -arriving here; this is no place for me.” - -I saw some marvellous specimens, more gold than quartz, from the -Erlistoun, and should not be surprised to hear any day of a tremendous -rush there. Consignments of plump wildfowl from beyond Mount Black and -the Erlistoun are frequently sent to Perth, and the country about is said -to be very fine. - -The Craig-i-more was the scene of my next mining visit. This mine -belongs to Sir Donald Currie, and, like most in this district, is worked -at the expense of the owners without the aid of the outside public -as shareholders. The machinery is very fine. I found the people most -hospitable; they made tea for me, and one of the managers presented me -with several valuable native weapons and curiosities, which I was proud -to add to the already fine collection in my pretty home at Claremont. - -Next day I set out to drive myself to the Euro Mine, about 12 miles -from Laverton, and refused all offers of escort, wishing to explore -the country myself. All went well for about seven miles, then I came -to two roads, did not know which to take, and of course took the wrong -one. After going on for about a mile the track grew very indistinct; I -found I was on the wrong one, and presently lost it altogether. However, -knowing by the sun that I was now going quite in the opposite direction, -I turned round, found the track, and determined to trust to luck and keep -to the left. When I had gone on for about a mile the track began to get -very indistinct, again being woven into others in a most confusing way. -The wind having risen made it also very dusty and disagreeable. I now -felt completely lost, but drove on hoping to strike a road once more. -Presently, a few yards to my right, there appeared a huge “willy willy.” -It interested and amused me at first, but presently it whirled nearer, -too near for my fancy and also to suit my horse, who needed no urging on. -Surely I heard a shriek. No! it was only the horrid “willy willy”; then -began a race, and “willy willy” was edging nearer. I turned my horse’s -head and let him gallop in the opposite direction; “willy willy” had -turned too _and was following us_. Half mad with fright I gave my horse -his head, who, by-the-by, took a small rut as if he were out with hounds, -the buggy and poor I taking it also. But where was “willy willy?” Right -away back, slowly dying (perhaps of laughter at giving us such a fright). -I slackened speed, and, looking around, was surprised to find that we -were nearly back at the Junction. We had struck the road again somehow, -the horse, perhaps, knowing his way better than I did. After all, “willy -willy” had done us a good turn. “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody -good,” I said to myself as I straightened my hat and drove sedately down -the road. - -[Illustration: MINERS’ CAMP, LAVERTON] - -Seeing smoke rising amongst the trees, I drove over to the place, hoping -to find a camp where I might get water for my horse. I found the camp -and one solitary man working by it, who had been in the neighbourhood -prospecting for months. He asked me to give my horse a rest, offering to -attend to him and also to make some tea for me, which hospitable offer I -gratefully accepted. While the “billy” boiled he told me much about the -hardships he had endured for many months. “But now,” said he, “luck has -turned; look here, ma’am.” At the same time he unearthed from the ground -an old jam tin, which proved to be full of little lumps of gold. For -months, he told me, he had been fossicking (that is, searching the top -ground), and looking for shows of gold, and one day had struck a patch. -Picking out one little piece he said, “That’s the first bit I found, and -you are the first white woman I have seen for months, so I’ll give it to -you for luck.” The piece was almost exactly in the form of an eagle, and -is now one of my gold treasures. He said that he had often been without -food, or the money to obtain it, but had subsisted on the kindness of -other prospectors, who had helped him from their often scanty store, and -of the storekeepers who had given him tick (credit). (I have since heard -that the man afterwards struck an immense find, and is now thoroughly -successful.) Bidding my hospitable entertainer “good-bye,” I again -started on my journey and soon found myself at the Euro, not having met -even a solitary kangaroo on the road. - -In the early days this mine was known as Quartz Hill, and the company -owning it was unlucky. Thousands of pounds were spent, but nothing much -was got, and the mine was finally abandoned; but some prospectors, who -often have a liking for fossicking on an abandoned spot, thought that -it had not had a fair trial, and two men, named Champion and Mason, -determined to give it another. Knowledge or chance led them to continue -a costéen, and they were not long coming on stringers (thin courses) of -rich quartz. Mr. G. W. Hall eventually came upon the scene in company -with Mr. A. W. Castle, and these well-known gentlemen were not long -in making a proposition to the prospectors, from whom they shortly -afterwards bought the mine for a considerable sum and renamed it the Euro. - -There is every appearance of a brilliant future for the Euro. There is -a large body of ore in sight. The reef is 10 feet wide, and some of it -gives assay equal to the rich Kalgoorlie claims. Many nice houses are -being built for offices, manager’s house, and stores. Farther on is the -Sons of England, another rich property acquired by Mr. Hall. - -At the Euro I was most hospitably entertained by the manager’s wife. -There were two other visitors at the mine that day, and we made quite a -merry party in the cool Bush-house, where we were invited to a very nice -lunch. - -Mount Weld was the object of my next day’s journeying. I did not lose -myself this time, but on the way came across some prospector’s camping, -and stopped to have a talk with them. They showed me a bottle full of -gold that they had recently got. One of them, the old man of the camp, -went very mysteriously into the camp and brought out something tied up -in a piece of an old bag. It turned out to be a nugget which must have -weighed 60 ounces. A small piece of gold was given me as a souvenir, and -I was bound to secrecy for a month about the big nugget; but, as the -month will be long past when this is published, I may now safely speak. - -At Mount Weld the miners seemed amazed to see a lady drive up alone, -and all work was suspended for the time by the hands on top. At the same -time an “Hallo” was given to those working below, with the message, “Come -up; a lady visitor.” The reply came, “You’re codding” (joking); but -when I went to the top of the shaft and called down, “It’s quite true,” -they came up the rope (dispensing with the bucket) with great alacrity. -Several claims here were yielding splendid returns, notably the new find, -7 miles from the Mount, where Bates and Whelan have recently struck a -rich patch. - -Another new place is called Bett’s Find, and 150 men were working there; -but, the heat having been terrible and water rather scarce, a good many -of them had left the place. The North Country, as this part is called, -has the advantage of rock not nearly so hard as on the fields lower down, -consequently the ores can be more easily treated. - -The time came when I had to bid farewell to Laverton and to its many -interesting mines. As time goes on the now modest little township will, -no doubt, develop into a fine city, for it is the centre of a very rich -district, although almost up in the Never Never country (where there is -no white population). Many mines of which I cannot speak are full of -golden promise, and many more will yet be discovered. The country around -is mountainous, and it is near mountains and hills that all the rich -reefs are found. - -It was on a lovely morning that I started for my return journey to Mount -Malcolm. As I had 70 miles to go, and as I was on the front seat of the -coach, I was thankful that the weather was cool. At first some difficulty -was experienced in getting the off-side leader to go. He was a young -horse, just broken in, and had never been in harness before; the way he -stood on his hind legs and curvetted around put terror into my heart, for -I am not strikingly brave where horses are concerned; with a great effort -I controlled myself and sat still, for I could see that the coach-driver -had full command, and, after about ten minutes of fear to me and fun -to the crowd who gathered round, we got away, the unmanageable animal -behaving admirably for the rest of the journey. - -There was only one other passenger (a gentleman) besides myself, and he -kindly got down and gathered Australian quondongs,[6] and some very rare -flowers new to me. Farther on the spinifex was very plentiful. I begged -some of that, not knowing its terrible prickly nature. It is a deceitful -plant that grows in pretty green grasslike clumps, with a flower—out at -this time—that looks almost like golden wheat, but is, oh, how wiry and -prickly! - -About 12 miles from Laverton was Hawke’s Nest, where the coach stopped -for a while at the store. This is a flourishing alluvial place, where -many nuggets are often found by dry-blowers and prospectors. A man came -into the store while we were waiting there with a nice piece, which the -storekeeper weighed; it was 14 ounces, and he had another of 7 ounces. A -little while ago a man found a piece weighing 27 ounces, and these good -finds are not of unfrequent occurrence. - -On arrival at Mount Morgans we changed coaches and found the new one -crowded. - -By the time I got to Murrin Murrin I was pretty thoroughly tired, and -decided to stay at the nice hotel and once more see silver and pretty -glass-ware on a table, for Mount Morgans and Laverton, although rich with -gold, are not exactly rich in comfort. - -I wanted to get to Malcolm the next day; there was no coach going, but -I was determined, and, my little landlady providing me with a horse and -spring-cart (the only conveyance obtainable), I made a start the next -morning like a veritable Bushwoman. I had no adventure beyond seeing a -long camel-train with three Afghan drivers, before getting near whom I -made a détour into the Bush, for horses are invariably afraid of camels. -I then resumed the road and got safely into Malcolm. - -A railway is soon to be begun to the Mount Margaret goldfields, and, -considering that this field is producing at the rate of 13,000 ounces -of gold per month, almost double the output of any other colonial field -except Kalgoorlie, it is to be hoped that the line will be finished with -as little delay as possible. - - - - -[Illustration: Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - - Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More Nuggets—Gold - Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the Fair Sex—Saturday - Life—Alas, poor Prospectors! - - -From Mount Malcolm to Leonora I drove 12 miles through very pleasant -country spread with wild flowers of all colours. About 2½ miles before -reaching Leonora lie, a little off the main road, the great mines called -the Gwalia Group, which seem likely to develop shortly into a second -Kalgoorlie. Leonora is a new place, and its great importance has not yet -been fully realised, but some managers told me that there are belts of -richness there similar to those in Kalgoorlie and Boulder City, so that, -when the railway is finished, no doubt thousands will flock to Leonora, -which by coach is now at a distance of 80 miles from Menzies. The Gwalia -Group occupies about a mile of ground, and is a leasehold of some 477 -acres. Over that expanse all the miners’ huts, camps, and tents are -scattered. I stopped at several and found a great many women and families -there, and some of their places were very comfortable inside, although -the outside was not much to look at. The men who work in this mine -are chiefly from Victoria, and they are bringing over their wives and -families every week. As the mine is evidently likely to be permanent, -and the men see a prospect of years of work before them, the people -there are very happy and have quite a little township of their own. The -principal mine of the group, the Sons of Gwalia, is on a hill, from which -place you look down over a mile of Bush dotted about with various camps. -The smoke rising from the chimneys, the poppet-heads of the other mines -lying beyond, with a blue haze of hills behind them, combine to make up a -good picture of life on the goldfields. - -There are 500 men working on this mine who turn out some thousands of -ounces of gold per month, independent of the tailings, which are almost -sure to give 1½ ounces to the ton. No doubt in a short time there will be -a tremendous boom here. - -The small town of Leonora very much resembles Mount Malcolm, except that -the main street is longer, and that there are a few more buildings. It -boasts of three hotels, one made of wood and two of mud bricks, but -withal not ungainly looking, and tolerably comfortable. Expenses are -heavy but wages are good, and there are so many lucky prospectors that -there is always plenty of money there. On Saturday nights a great deal -of business is done, especially on the pay Saturday, which at the Gwalia -mines arrives once a month; then most of the men come in and have some -amusement in the way of visiting the hotels and playing billiards; there -is nothing else for them to do. There is no good hall for amusements yet, -and if there were the men would have to provide their own play, for no -company of any calibre has yet ventured so far into the “back-blocks.” -A handsome semi-grand piano had just arrived at Thompson’s Hotel from -Perth, and the son of the landlady, who was an excellent musician, played -a selection from several new operas for my pleasure, as well as that of -the crowd who thronged the place. There is not much music to be had in -Leonora, but the inhabitants are quite able to appreciate it when it -comes. There is one luxury here, however, which is generally denied to -the people on the fields lower down towards Kalgoorlie—the luxury of -bathing at the public shower-baths. The men can have three baths daily -by paying the weekly fee of 2_s._ 6_d._ There are three splendid wells -in the town, with windmills, giving good supplies of fresh water. Horses -are very scarce; I had great difficulty in getting a horse and trap in -order to drive out and see the different mines; in fact, I had one day to -enlist the assistance of the local baker to take me out to one mine that -I wished very much to see, while another day the driver of the gingerbeer -carriage gallantly gave me a lift. - -Another day I had quite an adventure. I started in a cart, but the animal -called a horse, after jog-trotting for a mile or so, refused to go any -farther. The driver explained: “You see, ma’am, he’s an old ’un, and -knows at this time he ought to be going towards home, so he won’t go any -farther away from it.” All coaxings and persuasions were vain, so I had -to get out and walk. The day was intensely hot, and after walking some -distance I had to sit down on a log, feeling that I could go no farther. -At last in the distance a conveyance appeared coming from the place to -which I wanted to go, and proved to be that of the butcher. I stopped -the cart, and, with the sweetest smile I could call up, asked the young -man to take me to the mine. “But I am just going away from there.” “Oh, -never mind, turn back; I will pay you any money to take me there.” After -much hesitation he consented to do so, but would not accept payment. I am -glad to say that from the mine the manager sent me back in one of their -own buggies. The only people who kept horses for hire had let theirs -out to graze during the night and could not find them in the morning. -At last, in desperation I telegraphed to Mount Malcolm for a buggy and -horse, which were brought down to me, and I finished my inspection in -comfort. However, on my second visit to Leonora I found that the place -had advanced with great strides, and that now I had no difficulty in -obtaining a nice horse and buggy in the township to take me to the -different places I wished to visit. - -Going into one of the banks (there are two there), I collided at the door -with a rough-looking man carrying a canvas bag. This he emptied out upon -the counter. It proved to contain some splendid nuggets of gold and a -quantity of gold-dust. Seeing my eyes full of admiration, the man, rough -as he was, picked out a pretty little piece, and holding it towards me, -said, “Will you accept this, ma’am, from a rough miner who hasn’t spoken -to a lady for two years, and may I shake hands with you?” You may be sure -I did not refuse either of these offers, made in a most kindly spirit. - -We were now nearly 600 miles from Perth in a different direction to -Laverton. - -The Great Boston Reward Claim is only two miles from Leonora. Here -O’Brien and party made a vast profit out of the gold and nuggets they -obtained from their rich claim. The same party have another claim at a -place called Savannah, where they are also getting great results. - -Farther along the same road, which is the main road to Diorite and -Lawlers, is the Trump Mine, which has a small battery of its own, for -which the proprietors paid out of their first crushing of 10 ounces to -the ton. There are dozens of working-parties of men about this particular -part, which is exceptionally rich. Close to the Trump are the Leonora -Gold Blocks, which for richness have not been surpassed in the district. -This mine also has its own battery, bought and paid for out of its first -profits, so now the lucky owners have nothing to do but raise the stone -and extract the gold on the premises, independent of everybody. The -ample water supply makes work here comparatively easy, and I came to the -conclusion that this was an excellent place to look for gold. When one -looks back and thinks of the difficulties miners have had to contend with -at Hannan’s, I should say that a man would rather work in the Leonora -district, even for lower pay, than down below, where there is no fresh -water and few vegetables; and the fact is that wages are higher here. -There can be no doubt that a very great future lies before the Leonora, -or, I should say, Mount Malcolm goldfields, and probably in two years -from this time, instead of 1000 there will be 10,000 people on the field. -There are now scores of mines there, about which nobody hears anything. -Steady work is in progress everywhere in the district; there are no -unemployed men, the country, all the way from Menzies, is being rapidly -opened up, and so many improvements have been decided on by the various -mining companies, that thousands more men will shortly be required to do -the work. There is, therefore, nothing to prevent this rich field, which -has the advantage of being extensive, consistent, and well watered, from -developing shortly into a great community. Mr. Morgans, who should be -a good authority on mines, says that he sees no reason why the Gwalia -Mine should not shortly turn out 10,000 ounces of gold per month, and -that there are fully a dozen mines in the neighbourhood of Leonora with -striking lode formations which in the future will be as rich as any in -the district. - -On the road to the Diorite King, which is about 40 miles from Leonora, -there was nothing much to see except a good many swampers. A “swamper” -is a man tramping without his swag, which he entrusts to a teamster to -bring on his waggon. Arrived at the camping-place, which is recognisable -by the old fires, the swamper awaits the teamster’s coming, recovers -his swag and spends the night at the camp. While on foot the swamper -will generally leave the track, and prospect, and shows wonderful skill -in recovering the track again, after these deviations. The country, -however, was certainly prettier than that of the Coolgardie district. -I was somewhat surprised when the coach pulled up at a small-looking -hotel, called the Kurrajong, with a few houses about it, to find that I -was at Diorite King township. It is certainly the smallest place I ever -stayed at. However, I was not sorry to get to my journey’s end, for the -heat and red dust had made me long for a refreshing cup of tea, which I -got at the hotel. I was fortunate in getting a nice comfortable room, -which, however, I was told was reserved for the manager of a mine who -was expected soon, but I was allowed to have it until he came, and I am -thankful to say he did not arrive while I was there, so that I remained -for a few days in undisputed possession. - -At Diorite the township consists of one hotel, one store, one baker -and butcher’s shop combined, one blacksmith’s forge, a few mud houses, -and two galvanised-iron ones, the house of Mr. Williams, the manager -of the Diorite Mine, and a post-office. My readers may perhaps wonder -why I stayed so long. Certainly of all the uninviting desert-looking -places I ever saw, Diorite is the worst, but mines of wealth lie close -to it. There are only four women in Diorite, the landlady, the barmaid -of the hotel, a shopkeeper, and the wife of one of the men on the mine. -Women, being so few, are looked upon in these parts as goddesses, and -are treated with reverence, and I was made quite an object of adoration. -Of course there was no chance of getting a horse and vehicle here (how -I regretted leaving my bicycle at Menzies because I would not pay full -coach fare for it!) so one mine was explored by the medium of the -grocer’s cart. However, the day after, Mr. Williams kindly lent me his -horse and buggy, and safe transit to the other mines was then assured. - -[Illustration: Camels at Diorite King] - -The Diorite King Mine is about two miles from the township, and lies -between two hills. A great deal of gold has been got there. I found -myself most hospitably entertained, as the men were all at their “crib” -when I arrived, and being invited into their dining-room, a bough-shed -with two benches and long table, I took the mug of “billy” tea offered -me, but did not feel disposed to partake of the corned beef, cabbage, -and potatoes, although everything looked very nice and well cooked, and -also well served up by the cook of the day. This mine, and another called -the Middlesex, have both turned out good results, and while I was there -I saw some of what is called “surface stone,” freely splashed with gold -all over. On the way back to Diorite a long string of camels, over eighty -passed on their way to Lawlers with stores. What would the people in -these remote places do if it were not for these “ships of the desert”? - -On one of them, in a kind of wicker basket, was a poor little lamb, -looking wonderingly around with its head out of the cage. I thought, -perhaps, it might have been a pet of one of the Afghans. “No fear, -ma’am, it’s to be killed at sundown; they won’t eat any meat killed by -Europeans, drat them,” said the grocer, for like all Westralians he had a -hatred of the wily Afghan. - -The Calcutta Mine is not far from Diorite, and has a splendid reef. It -adjoins the Little Wonder, owned by Doyle and party, who a few years -ago had a find of gold so rich and phenomenal that thousands of pounds -worth of gold were taken in no time, and the men are working in daily -expectation of cutting a rich leader again. - -Mount Stirling is another mine held by a Perth syndicate. Very rich ore -was lately struck there, and the syndicate have now erected their own -crushing battery. Plenty of fuel and water is available in the vicinity. -Hundreds of tons of the valuable ore lie on top waiting to be crushed, -and thousands more are plainly to be seen below waiting to be dug out. -This is the richest stone that has ever been found near here, and is -causing much excitement on the lease adjoining Mount Stirling. A lode was -being worked by some miners at a depth of 90 feet, a pocket of some of -the stuff assaying the immense value of 100 ounces to the ton. A great -many more men have claims about the vicinity of Mount Stirling Mines, but -it is almost impossible to know what is being got, as they keep silence -over their findings. The manager of the store says that a large quantity -of alluvial gold is sent away from the district of which the warden knows -nothing. His firm, being buyers of gold, often purchase from the men as -much as 100 ounces a month, £390 worth, sometimes more. - -[Illustration: AUCTION SALE GOLDFIELDS (TIN HOTEL)] - -Last, but far from least, I went to the King of the Hills Mine. The -farther I got away from Diorite the nicer the country looked. When I -came to the King of the Hills the surroundings were really pretty. -The wonderful gold got there has been obtained by sinking to no great -depth. The main shaft was only 25 feet deep at the time when I saw it. -Many rich quartz veins have been found in the workings, the finds being -occasionally most sensational. A small parcel of 18 tons of stone was -treated for a yield of 280 ounces of gold; 14 tons yielded 276 ounces, -and since then a further sensation has been caused by 1 ton of quartz -which yielded 116 ounces of gold. On one of the shafts large sacks of ore -were stacked which fairly glistened with gold, and were expected to give -as high a result as that just quoted. The mine was owned at this time by -Read and party, but has since been sold to Mr. Raymond, of the Harquehala -Company, for £6000 cash. After pegging out their claim, Reid and party -obtained over 1600 ounces of gold, worth about the nice little sum of -£6200. That, with the sale of the mine, makes a fortune of £12,000 for -four partners. - -Saturday afternoon brought all, or nearly all, the miners from the -surrounding country into Diorite, where, as you can imagine, the -hotelkeeper was kept busy. The hotel proprietor, no doubt, has made a -fortune out of these Saturdays, the men having no other means of spending -their money; there is no bank where they can change their gold into -coin, but the storekeeper does that necessary kindness for them, or the -landlady notes a score on her little slate. All the time that I was -there one lucky claim-holder was falling about the place intoxicated. -Some of the scenes witnessed are by no means pleasant, but I suppose the -four women of the place had got quite used to them, for they did not -seem to take any notice of anything that went on. Many of the men on -the Saturday night become incapable of going back to their camps, and -there being no sleeping accommodation at Diorite beyond the one hotel, -they take shelter in any empty hut or under any cover they can find. The -men are all very kind to one another, only a few fights occur, and the -fighters soon shake hands and make friends again. There is no police -protection, and not even a tree lock-up, so every one does pretty well as -he likes at Diorite King; but when one thinks of the life these men lead, -shut off in a desert country from almost every trace of civilisation, -one feels that their faults should be looked on with a lenient eye. One -man seemed terribly drink-sodden, and I was told he had taken thousands -of pounds worth of gold as a partner in a certain claim, and his friends -had tried to get him away to reclaim him, but he would not leave the -place, and preferred to spend the money as he got it in the desert. -Occasionally some poor miner gets lost in the Bush and is never heard -of again. The blacks were very troublesome at one time about here, but -there are now very few. Mr. J. Leyland, one of the original owners of -the Little Wonder Mine, was killed by them about two years ago. He had -gone out to look for two horses that were lost, and having found them had -camped for the night at Doyle’s Well, about 20 miles off, and was boiling -his billy when he noticed a bush in motion close by, and before he could -arm himself two blacks sprang upon him and hit him on the head with a -waddy, and then speared the horses, leaving Mr. Leyland, as they thought, -dead. They then, having satisfied their thirst for blood, decamped. On -the poor man’s return to consciousness he dragged himself to the horses -and found one poor beast dead but the other not severely injured. He -managed to mount it, and horse and rider, covered with blood, managed to -make their way back to the mine. The horse dropped dead on their arrival -there, and poor Leyland only lived long enough to relate his terrible -night’s experience. Two men were lost in the Bush a little after this, -and parties went out searching for them. One poor fellow was found dead -under a tree, with his billy beside him, on the smoked part of which was -scratched: “Dying from thirst; Jim tried to go on, follow him.” A horse -lying dead close by mutely told a dreadful tale. The search-party, going -on for many miles, at last came across a hut near a well. The hut-keeper -told them he was awakened by a noise at daybreak, and on looking out saw -a dark object leaning over a rough hollowed-out tree trunk (used for -giving his horse a drink) and ravenously gulping down the water like a -thirsty wild animal. It was hardly daylight, so he could not distinguish -what it was, but knowing there were no wild animals about he ventured out -to see, and found it was the other poor lost man in the throes of death. -He took him into the hut and cared for him as well as he could, but it -was too late, so all the search-party could do was to dig a grave and -bury the second poor mate as they had done the first. - -About 62 miles from Leonora is the splendid goldfields’ pastoral station, -called Sturt’s Meadows, which belongs to Mr. Manuel, and consists of -570,000 acres of land. There is an abundance of water, and wells have -been sunk in many parts to supply the enormous herds of stock which Mr. -Manuel sends to the southern markets. The boundary of the station lies -20 miles away, and we drove 18 miles, during which we were always on -the property, before coming to the homestead. Here we were hospitably -received, and tasted “Brownie,” a currant loaf peculiar to this station, -of which I can personally speak in the highest terms. Mr. Manuel drives -four and sometimes six brumbies, and the way he gets over the ground is -simply amazing. - - - - -[Illustration: Off by the Coach to Lawlers] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - - Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount Sir - Samuel—While the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across the - Country—The “Back-blocks”—Camping out—Arrival at Nannine—Bed - once More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak Hill—The Gold - Patch—An Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome. - - -Another coach journey of 50 miles brought me to Lawlers. I was now out -of the Mount Malcolm and Mount Margaret districts, and in the East -Murchison. Mount Magnet, which is on the Cue railway line, is almost -in a direct line with Lawlers, and it is 130 miles from Lawlers to -Menzies. Lawlers is a nice little town; all the people so friendly and -pleased to see a strange lady on the field that many of them came into -the hotel to see me. The buildings are creditable, and a great amount of -business seemed to be doing. The gold output is steadily increasing, but -although much good ore is realised, there is great difficulty experienced -in getting it crushed, the batteries being too small. The people seem -unusually healthy. They say no one is ever sick at Lawlers, and the -soil is magnificent for growing fruit and vegetables, despite the small -rainfall. Mr. Homann has a very fine garden, watered by the surplus -water from the Great Western Mine, and from a well with a windmill. -Melons, tomatoes, and cabbages are fully equal to any I have seen. There -are also some vines that have borne beautiful grapes. If there were -only a plentiful fall of rain, which unfortunately seldom happens, -Lawlers could compete with any place in the matters of agriculture -and viticulture. Everything has to be carted to the place by team or -camel-train, consequently things of all kinds are very dear, the actual -cost of carriage from Mount Magnet being £12 per ton by team and £8 by -camel-train. The coach fare to that place from Lawlers, 192 miles, is -£5, and to Menzies, 130 miles, £4. Until the railway went to Menzies -from Kalgoorlie, most of the supplies came from Mount Magnet, but now -that the traffic of Lawlers is going to Menzies, since the train service -commenced, instead of Magnet, it increases daily. This, of course, will -naturally benefit both places, since Menzies will now also obtain some -of the splendid vegetables grown in Lawlers. Previously there were only -tinned vegetables to be had there. The people of Menzies have no desire -to see a railway line extended past that place, but as the Government has -now decided to build a railway speedily to Leonora, the Lawlers people -are hoping that at no distant time the line may be extended to their town -also; Lawlers will then be the pivot between the Murchison (Cue line) -and East Murchison goldfields, and with its excellent soil, its rich -mines, the Great Eastern for instance, will probably become one of the -principal towns in the goldfields. When the railway reaches Lawlers there -will be only 192 miles of this part without train service, through which -a railway could soon be made to Mount Magnet, completing a belt of rails -from Perth right round the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Mount Malcolm, Margaret, -East Murchison, Murchison, and Yalgoo goldfields. - -[Illustration: Lake Way Gold Mine] - -I next prepared for a long journey through the Western Australian Bush. -My destination was Lake Way and Wiluna. How I was to get there I did -not know, as there were no coaches even for the mails, which were only -taken once a week, and then by bicycle, over a distance of 120 miles, -a journey too long and too lonely for me to take alone. However, I was -cheered by the news that some miners were expected at Lawlers in a day -or two for whom horses were waiting. So, never doubting that they would -be gallant enough to offer me a seat, I rested quietly and waited for -their arrival. When they came they proved to have two friends with them, -who proposed to travel on what is called the “buckboard,” that is the -kind of ledge, about three feet long, for carrying luggage at the back -of the buggy, and as there was only room for two persons in front there -seemed to be a difficulty about conveying the whole party. However, the -pleasure of having a lady to drive with them for 120 miles was great -enough to make the party alter all their arrangements. One of them -borrowed a bicycle, and two of us in front of the buggy, a lad and other -friend on the buckboard, and four brumbies in hand, we gaily started off -one fine morning. We reached the first stopping-place, Mount Sir Samuel, -31 miles off, at 4 o’clock, and put up there, as I wished to see this -little place, where there are some very good mines—one, the Bellevue, -being a first-rate property. Another, called the Sulphide King, is very -promising. Mining here is not so hard as in some places, owing to the -softness of the ground and the plentiful supply of water. - -Lake Darlot is about 20 miles from here, and there is now a very -promising goldfields township in the district. A wild rush occurred a -few years ago. This was one of the places where great hardships were -endured by the diggers on account of the terrible scarcity of provisions; -the price of flour, when procurable, was at that time £5 for a small bag! - -Every one at Mount Sir Samuel was very kind and hospitable, and I felt -quite sorry to leave next morning, as we did at daybreak, for we wished -to make a long journey that day. We should have, we knew, to camp out. I -looked forward to this unusual experience with great eagerness. - -As I was watching the camp making I heard “Coo-e-e! Coo-e-e!” the -Australian bush cry, and presently a party of four miners rode up. -They had just sold their mines for £17,000, and were on their way to -Melbourne, _en route_ for New Zealand to see their parents. They told me -that, five years ago, they landed in the West with £200 between the four -of them, and are now leaving with the above-mentioned sum; but they hope -to come back to the Golden West after a six-months holiday. As you may -imagine, they were very jolly; they took off their kits (bags), which -contained provisions, we combined forces, and made a very pleasant meal -under the shade of some pretty kurrajong-trees. At night, attracted by -our fires, some natives appeared, but I felt quite safe with so many -protectors. They made up a bed of bushes for me under the buggy, and put -branches all around it. I felt as if I was in a Mia Mia (native hut), and -was as comfortable as possible. I heard the natives saying, “Mimi lubra,” -which means, “Woman in a tent.” They thought the men would not trouble to -make a place like it for themselves, and their conjectures were right; -they are not such a stupid race after all! - -Early in the morning we parted company and started off again. An -adventure shortly after stirred us up. A kangaroo, pursued by an emu, -came on the scene, but, being so fleet, both were soon out of sight. -After the excitement was over the boy on the buckboard repeated to us an -essay he said he wrote at school, on the kangaroo, which struck me as -being so funny that I give it you verbatim: - - “The kangaroo is a quadruped, but two of his feet is only - hands. He is closely related to the flea family, an’ jumps like - him, an’ has the same kind of resemblance. He is Australian by - birth an’ has a watch-pocket to carry his children in. There - is two or more kinds of kang’roos, but they are mostly male - an’ female, and live on grass, cabbage, and curren buns. The - kang’roo’s tale is his chief support; it is thick at one end, - and runs to the other end; it is good to jump with, and the - kang’roo when it’s cut off don’t know his way home, and has to - walk on his hands. The kang’roo is good for makin’ soup and - bootlaces and putting in zoos, and sometimes he is presented to - the roil Family to represent Australia.” - -We reached Wiluna, the township of Lake Way, next day, and found it a -very nice little place. There are three hotels and stores, and I was -surprised to find everything so nice away up in the wilds of the West. -There is plenty of fresh water in this district and several nice gardens. -Watermelons grow splendidly, and, with the thermometer at 114°, are very -welcome. Tomatoes also grow in profusion, and several people are growing -fruit and vegetables as a business, so that Lake Way is not a bad place -in which to find oneself. There are many good mines, turning out handsome -yields, and companies have recently been floated in London to take over -several properties here. The chief characteristics of the reefs are -evenness of quality, great wealth, and permanency. A very nice cake of -gold, weighing 145 ounces, from one of the claims was shown me; it came -from a claim called The Brothers. - -The people about Wiluna are, in spite of the heat of the climate, very -fond of dancing. It really is almost their only amusement. The evening -of our arrival a ball was held; it might truly be termed a Bachelors’ -Ball, for so few of the opposite sex are in the district; however, the -boys, as they are termed, arrived in great force, their dancing costumes -being riding breeches and coloured shirts, with turned down collars -and broad hats, real “back blocks” costume. As it was a very hot and -bright moonlight night, they danced on the open plain, and seemed to -enjoy themselves thoroughly. At about 9 o’clock a terrific shouting and -native yabber, yabber (talk) from a part of the Bush, where a tribe of -aborigines were encamped, gave token of rival amusement. The natives were -holding a Corroboree. They had camped at Wiluna, but were travelling to -some particular part of the country, where a favourite large grub, which -they used for food, was to be found in quantities. Natives always travel -from place to place in search of food, and they know the parts in which -the different kinds will be plentiful or in season. - -[Illustration: KANGAROO - -_Copyright—Gambier Bolton_] - -Wishing to see a Corroboree dance, I, with some of the onlookers of -the Bachelors’ Ball, migrated to the camp. The black fellows, who had -ornamented their heads and kangaroo-skin garment with what feathers and -tufts of grass they could obtain and coloured their faces and bodies -with wilgey, were leaping up in the air, with a spear in one hand and -a shield in the other, and contorting their bodies in most grotesque -fashion to the accompaniment of native music supplied by some of the men -of the tribe, who squatted on the ground chanting strange sounds and -beating sticks, while the lubras (wives), gins (girls), and pickaninnies -(children) sat or lay around, making a fearful noise and clapping their -hands vigorously. In the light of the camp fire it was a novel and weird -sight, but a little of it sufficed me. Before leaving, the head man of -the tribe threw the boomerang, which is a native weapon shaped like a -quarter-moon, and so constructed that it assumes a return motion at the -will of the native who throws it. It really was wonderful to hear it -whirr as it started through the air to a great distance and height, and -then come back to exactly the same place it started from. The boomerang -is not so unique as many people think; a weapon almost the same was used -by the Abyssinians hundreds of years ago, and still earlier by the people -of ancient Egypt. - -The journey from Lake Way to Nannine, over 120 miles of rather barren -country, was one to be remembered. No coach having yet been started on -this route, I was fortunate in being able to join a party of people, -including two ladies, who were going there in their own conveyances; -they had been in the “back-blocks” for four years, and thought it time -to take a holiday, especially as their husbands had made over £6000 -each from their mines, and had given them £500 each to go to Victoria, -see their friends, and have a good time, as I have no doubt they did. -We camped out for four nights, but the weather was fine, and it was -very pleasant to be under a canopy of stars, although towards morning -it got pretty cold. The two ladies took it in turn to do the cooking, -and would not hear of my doing anything, saying it would be a pity to -roughen my hands, which, by the way, were becoming almost as brown as -theirs. I quite enjoyed the bush-cooking. Johnny cake or “damper,” as it -is called here, cooked in the wood-ashes, is very nice, especially with -good butter, which we had in tins. Then there were plenty of wild turkeys -about, some of which were shot for us. My companions had brought some -tinned asparagus also, so, taking it altogether, our manna in the desert -was not to be despised. We met a few aborigines during our journey, but -they were generally very quiet and only asked for bacca and food. The -lubras were carrying their pickaninnies in a coota (bag) on their backs -(this is their usual custom except in the colder parts of the colony, -where they are supplied with blankets and also with rations); they were -also carrying sticks and some freshly killed birds. The women always have -to carry all the burdens, their lords and masters stalking on ahead with -their spears, no doubt on the look-out for game. - -[Illustration: A Well near Lake Way] - -One night, as we were sitting round the camp-fire, several of them again -appeared and demanded more bacca and food, which was given them, and they -were told to go away, but they would not do so until the men of our party -fired off several shots, which soon caused them to disappear, as they -are very much afraid of fire-arms. - -[Illustration: LUBRA AND PICKANINNY] - -Another night we camped in company with two teams. Each team had ten -horses and splendid large waggons, one of which the teamster gave up -to us three ladies, and we had quite a luxurious bed on sacks of chaff -that night. The teamsters were educated men; one had received a college -education, but had been eight years in the “back-blocks.” He said he -had not been in a lady’s company for years, and the poor fellow seemed -delighted to talk to me about his mother and sisters, who, he said, were -in dear old England, but he never wrote home, as he was the black sheep -of the family. I made him promise that when he got to Nannine he would -write to his mother, who, no doubt, in her heart was thinking, “Where is -my wandering boy to-night?” I do hope he kept his promise. On our arrival -at Nannine I bade a reluctant farewell to the party, who took the coach -to Cue, _en route_ for Fremantle, there to take the steamer to Victoria -to spend their well-earned holiday. - -We were now in the Murchison district. Nannine is a nice little place, -and everything seemed to be flourishing. The people form a very happy, -lively community. Several good buildings adorn the town, and I considered -myself fortunate in getting very comfortable quarters, for I was -really tired after my journey and late camping-out experiences. It was -delightful to rest on a nice soft bed and to have my breakfast brought me -in the morning. There are two good hotels at Nannine, which do a splendid -business. There are over 80 mines in the district—the first in which -gold was discovered in Western Australia. This first discovery dates -from 1854, when Robert Austin was sent by Governor Fitzgerald to explore -the country in the Gascoyne district above Peak Hill for agricultural -and pastoral land for settlement. Mr. Austin was accompanied by the -sons of some of the early settlers, and the little band of explorers -underwent many hardships. Most of their horses were poisoned by the -Bri-gastrolobium plant, and the party had to travel on foot for many -weary months. It was owing to this circumstance that the gold discovery -was made, for while reconnoitring for grass and water Mr. Austin came -across some likely looking stone, which he broke, and found it contained -gold. The only prospecting tools available (except a tomahawk, a small -hatchet always carried by explorers and prospectors), being a knife and -a pannikin, much progress could not be made. On Mr. Austin’s return to -Perth from the expedition he informed the Government, who did not think -it worth while to make further inquiries. Had they done so, the colony’s -prosperity might have dated 35 years earlier than it has done, as Mr. -Austin correctly described the auriferous nature of the belt of country -around Mount Magnet, Lake Austin, and Mount Kenneth, and also predicted -that the Murchison would become one of the greatest goldfields in the -world. The little party were the first white men who ever set foot in -that part of the colony, and I do not think that their efforts were -ever recognised. Mr. Austin is now a very old gentleman, and last year -was mining surveyor at the Mines Department, Hodgkinson Goldfields, -Queensland, from which place he wrote to the papers in Perth asking that -his claims as the first discoverer of gold should be recognised by the -present Parliament, and giving interesting particulars of his travels. -In 1856 gold was discovered at Kojânup, but little attention was paid to -gold in Western Australia in those days. It was not until 1884 that Mr. -Hardman, the Government geologist, discovered rich gold at Kimberley in -the far north of Western Australia, and this was followed in 1887 by the -find of gold at Mugakine while a man was digging a well. Golden Valley -and Southern Cross followed, and an era of prosperity for the colony -opened which I hope will never be closed. - -At the Aberfoyle Mine, to which I went from Nannine, I saw some beautiful -quartz thickly encrusted with gold. Twenty-two pounds of this stone -contained over 62 ounces of gold, valued at £230. This rich piece of -quartz has been secured for the Glasgow Exhibition. There are seven -shafts on this really amazing mine, from each of which the ore taken is -so marvellously rich that they are watched at night. Splendid machinery -is being put up, but sufficient masons cannot be got to do the work, -consequently the progress is slow. The Nannine Mine has shown wonderful -results during the year. In six weeks 1371 ounces were crushed from 285 -tons of stone. The chute (opening) from which this was taken improves -still richer as the mine opens up. The Champion is another group of -mines, from which excellent returns have been taken. At the Royalist, -another mine owned by the oldest mining resident of Nannine, as much as -300 ounces in two weeks have recently been obtained. There are many other -mines, but I cannot specify them all. Mount Yagahong is also a rich part -of the field, and Meekatharra, 25 miles away, is rapidly forging ahead -as a gold producer. Then 14 miles from Nannine is Burnakura, from which -place 71 lb. of specimens, containing 700 ounces of gold, some of the -pieces being nearly pure gold, were recently brought into Nannine and -lodged in the Western Australian Bank. Previous to this, £2000 worth of -gold was taken from the same claim, called Jewett’s United Lease, and -still more recently a Perth paper records that “A small parcel of stone, -weighing 4¾ cwt., from Jewett’s Union Mine at Burnakura, and crushed -at the Nannine battery, yielded 494½ ounces of gold. Nine hundred tons -of stone lie at grass—that is, on the top waiting to be crushed—on the -property.” This magnificent mine is owned by a local syndicate of seven -people. Gabanuntha is a rich mine near Nannine, and Star of the East -another. A leasehold with a peculiar name is “After Many Years,” which -gives every indication of turning out rich. This district, and Peak Hill, -owing to their remoteness, have not attracted speculators much, but must -eventually become prominent, for they are as rich as any part of Western -Australia, and after many years will, no doubt, fully verify Robert -Austin’s prediction. - -To drive another 120 miles through the Bush to Peak Hill did not seem to -me a very agreeable undertaking, but the advent one day of a spanking -four-in-hand at Nannine, bringing three gentlemen, one of whom I was -fortunate enough to know, and who gallantly offered to take me to Peak -Hill, altered the case completely. One of the party was an Englishman -inspecting Western Australian mines with a view to large investments. -Relays of horses had been sent on to the different stages along the road -and sleeping accommodation arranged for. I am afraid I put out these -arrangements considerably, but the gentlemen did not seem to mind giving -up the best to me, gallantly saying that my company compensated for -any discomfort. I felt at first that, as they were on mining business, -they did not want womenfolk around, but they soon found out that I took -as much interest in mining matters as themselves, and we became _bon -camarades_. Knowing that the _menu_ at these places would not be of the -best, the party had sent ahead supplies of everything necessary for table -comfort, also a man cook and waiter, so you may well understand that the -journey to Peak Hill was a most enjoyable one to me. - -As we approached the famous Peak Hill, which is a nice little mining -town, endowed with wonders of which you will presently hear, we passed -several dry-blowers working. These men fossick (look) over the old -workings, and by aid of a tin dish, in which they place any earth -they think contains gold, and a coarse riddle with which to sift it, -afterwards blowing away the fine dirt, they frequently find gold at the -bottom of the dish. The ground is remarkably rich in gold, and I find -it impossible to describe the magnitude of this golden country, which, -like other fields, seems only to have been tested in a few places, those -places being so rich that one wonders what the country will be when the -hundreds of miles of good ground that I have passed have been opened out -by miners. We were now far, far away from Perth, and the country looked -different from any I had seen before in Western Australia. Peak Hill lies -very high, 2000 feet above the sea-level. The ascent is steep and very -rocky, four miles of it going through the Robinson Ranges. An interesting -sight is found at the top, which has the appearance of a wide plain, -with shafts and dumps of the thrown-up earth all over it. The manager of -the principal mine here has a very comfortable residence, and the miners’ -camps give the place the usual prosperous appearance. There are over 600 -men on this field. The whole of the leases of Peak Hill have been taken -over by a syndicate, which has formed a company in London. The finds -have been marvellously rich. I went down one shaft, and saw some very -interesting specimens being dug out. The gold is in a kaolin formation, -and in some parts the kaolin is of all kinds of colours, and with the -gold shining through looks really lovely. In other parts of the mine the -kaolin is quite white, and the deposit easy to dig out. The results from -the Peak Hill reef have been as high as 2621 ounces 15 dwts. of gold -from 331 tons of this ore. Some of the mines have given as much as 21 -ounces of gold to the ton, which is a wonderful record. The Christmas -Gift is a rich mine, and many others have had such phenomenal crushings -that the Peak Hill district is unsurpassed in wealth of gold. When Sir -Gerard Smith, late Governor of Western Australia, visited Peak Hill, the -mine-owners had a solid gold plate and a cup, to use at dinner, cast for -him. - -[Illustration: DRY-BLOWING IN THE GOLDEN STEW] - -There are some really fine public buildings, and the hotels, especially -the Peak, are very comfortable. A nice Miners’ Institute, for meetings, -entertainments, &c., has recently been finished. Land for building sites -realises splendid prices, nearly £1000 having been paid for different -allotments. The private houses seem very comfortable habitations. Many of -the people have made fortunes, and everything seems prosperous about the -place. - -A very original character, called “Tom the Rager,” sold his interest in -one of the leases some time ago for £15,000. This man, an old Irishman, -made a memorable journey from Kimberley, in the North-West, across the -greater part of Western Australia, accompanied only by his faithful dog -“Paddy,” and subsequently got an interest in some of the richest claims -at Peak Hill, as the sale mentioned may testify. The Golden Patch, as -it is called, in which all the rich mines are, covers about a square -mile of ground of quite a different nature from that in other parts. -This mile of ground is formed by a mass of rich veins of quartz, and the -wealth contained there is unsurpassed in any part of Western Australia. -Were Peak Hill not such a tremendous distance away from the capital, -its growth would, no doubt, be as quick as that of Kalgoorlie, which it -so much resembles. Some of the wonderful crushings from a few of the -golden mines may interest you. The Peak Hill Reef, from 331 tons of stone -crushed 2621 ounces of gold; Daisy Bell, 82 tons, gave 1245 ounces; -Golden Chimes, 195 tons, gave 1402 ounces. The Horseshoe and the Golden -Patch are supposed to be the two richest spots in the colony. Some of the -specimens taken from the Patch are not only rich but vastly interesting -in other ways, some of the pieces being not gold held together by quartz, -but _vice versâ_; the small pieces of quartz, if tapped by a hard -substance, vibrate like a tuning-fork. The gold is very brilliant, and -positively sparkles in the light. - -I drove out to the Horseshoe Mines, a distance of about 20 miles. There -were over 50 men working there, and getting a great deal of gold; some of -them gave me some pretty pieces. I have now got enough nuggets to make -any other collectors envious. While there I met a young man who knew me -in Melbourne when he was quite a boy. I did not recognise him, as he had -grown up and had a moustache; but he came to me almost with tears in his -eyes, so pleased was he to see me so far away from home. For the moment -I could hardly realise that I was nearly 800 miles in the interior of -Western Australia, and felt inclined to cry with sympathy. He gave me a -very pretty little nugget, which cheered me considerably. Alluvial gold -often takes most singular forms; it is usually found on the surface, -or not far below, while reef-gold is got in a quartz lode, or vein, at -some depth underground. Some magnificent nuggets have been found in this -part; one weighing 132 ounces, worth over £500, was found in one of the -gullies which we passed when driving to this spot. The name of Horseshoe -is taken from the long range of hills shaped almost like a horseshoe, and -the gullies between them have made many of the miners wealthy. There are -two very rich reefs here, which have been proved for six or seven miles. -The specimens are very massive, gold predominating to a large extent in -the quartz, and the ironstone fairly glistening with richness. I was -now getting so much accustomed to looking at and handling gold that I -began to fear I should look coldly on the common articles of everyday -life. The miners, with the usual hospitality of their class, would boil -the billy and give me tea, and all the best that their “back-block” -larder afforded. Times are much changed now, since the early days of the -fields, and the miners can live very comfortably. I said good-bye to them -all with regret, wishing I could stay longer in this grand part of the -country, the scenic beauty of which is also great. I enjoyed the drive -back very much, and could not help thinking what store of wealth must lie -beneath the ground we were driving over. The great bulk of this part of -the country must contain untold gold. - -Revelstone is another rich mining camp a few miles from Peak Hill, where -a public crushing plant has been erected, at which the miners of the -neighbourhood can have their ore crushed as soon as they raise it. - -Farther on still is that wonderful Nor’-West country, to which I hope -some day to go. The biggest nuggets the colony has produced have been -found there. “The Bobby Dazzler,” which I was fortunate enough to see, -and tried to lift, before I left Perth, and which is to be shown at the -Glasgow Exhibition, came from Marble Bar, Nor’-West. It weighs over 400 -ounces of gold, and is worth over £1600. Another large nugget was found -in that district a few years ago, which weighed 334 ounces; so that -people wishing to pick up the precious metal in large lumps had better -try their luck in the far North. - -After spending some days at Peak Hill, I started, with my kind friends, -on my return to Nannine, and passed through acres and acres of the -finest everlasting flowers I have ever seen. The beautiful cream-coloured -starry flowers were as large as a florin; the country looked like a foamy -sea. Then, in other parts, bright-coloured flowers surrounded us, like -patterns in a huge kaleidoscope. - -We came to Abbot’s Find, some miles before reaching Nannine; the locality -is very rich; it was near here that last year a lucky prospector, named -Campbell, found some splendid specimens. The stone was creamy-white, -thickly permeated with gold, and was obtained from near the surface. -The place is full of outcrops (likely places for gold), leaders, and -reefs, it is wonderful that no rush has yet begun; but the rich spots -are so many, and the men comparatively so few, that they cannot prospect -them all. There are several important mines at Abbot’s, notably the New -Murchison King, White Horse, Abbot’s, and others, which have all given -good returns. - - - - -[Illustration: Mine at Cue] - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - - Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet - Flowers Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The - Mirage—Jolly Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The - Morning Star—Windsor Castle. - - -After a good rest at Nannine, which is 50 miles from Cue, we started off -for Tuckanarra, where I stayed for a day to see the much-talked-of spot -where so rich a find was lately made, my friends going on meanwhile to -Cue. The country around here is much broken and there are many large -caves. It was at the head of a huge gorge that the big find was made, -right on the surface, and many hundredweights of rich specimens were -quickly dug out. The lucky prospector communicated with Mr. Zeb. Lane, -in Perth, who went up, inspected the find, and took an option of the -mine for the British Westralia Syndicate, taking 4 cwt. of the rich -stuff home to England with him. However, the find proved to be a pocket, -and all the gold had centred there; consequently Mr. Lane surrendered -the option, as not being valuable enough for flotation. (He has since -floated in England the Anchor Consolidated Group, which includes several -good mines at Tuckanarra.) The original owners, Messrs. Taylor and Co., -have now retaken the work of opening up the mine with much success, and -have recently struck a rich reef, a parcel of 34 tons of stone from -which have yielded 138 ounces of gold. Boyd’s Claim is the best one -here, over 3000 ounces of gold having been taken out of it by crushing -and dollying, while the tailings, concentrates, and blanketings brought -the yield up to a considerably larger amount. At present Tuckanarra is a -quiet little place, but there is no knowing at what moment the colony may -be electrified by more finds. It was Warden Dowley’s blackboy who first -discovered gold in the Tuckanarra district. Whilst travelling with the -warden to Nannine he showed a piece of gold to his master and pointed -out the place where he found it, on which the warden marked the spot and -afterwards circulated the news. The usual rush ensued, and many claims -were pegged out. - -Only 25 miles of Bush travelling now lay between me and the town of Cue. -The coach driver favoured me with the box-seat, much to the disgust of -a male passenger, who wanted the seat and did not feel inclined to give -way to a lady. But the driver of the coach is always the boss (master) of -the box-seat, and this one, being fond of ladies’ society, gave me the -preference, not resembling in this point the driver in one of the other -districts, who said he “didn’t want no women sitting alongside of him.” - -At last I saw the lights of Cue. Electric lights in the streets, horses -and carts, the shrill whistle of the railway engine, boys calling out the -evening papers, and the stopping of the coach to deliver the mails at the -brilliantly lighted and splendid post-office, told me that I had emerged -from the “back-blocks” and was once more nearing the metropolis. - -[Illustration: Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine] - -I had heard a good deal about this centre of the Murchison, Cue, and, now -that I was here, found it an agreeable place to spend a few days in. The -living is in many ways immensely good, fresh milk is abundant, eggs are, -it is true, 5_s._ a dozen, but are obtainable. The meat is the finest I -have seen in the colony, and the vegetables are equally good. Passing -the door of the kitchen one morning I saw a pile of cauliflowers, the -outside leaves of which were 4 feet high, and the white flower on the -same scale. The cabbages were as hard as a rock and over a foot and a -half in diameter. Turnips and other kinds of vegetables were equally -surprising. The cook told me that they were grown at Mr. Rickett’s -garden, two miles out of town. To look at the barren country one would -think that nothing would grow, but it justifies the words of Sir -Frederick Weld, one of the first Governors, who, when people described -Western Australia as a sand heap, said, “If it be only sand, it is sand -that will grow anything if you give it water.” I was agreeably surprised -one morning to receive a lovely bunch of mignonette and a few violets, -the first of the season. I did enjoy the gift; no garden flowers ever -smelled sweeter or looked prettier to me, for it was a long time since -I had seen any. It was a perfect Sunday morning, and picnics and drives -were the order of the day; several parties were just setting out. The -people seem to be very happy, and, though so far away from their old -homes, have got quite used to goldfields life and get plenty of enjoyment -out of it. I drove out to some of the gardens and was surprised at the -green spots in the desert. Plenty of water is got by sinking wells and -the gardens are well irrigated. - -There are two newspapers published at Cue. At a dinner given to the Press -while I was there, one of the toasts was as follows: “Woman, second only -to the Press in disseminating news.” Are we ladies to take this as a -compliment, or otherwise? - -It is proposed to carry the railway from Cue on to Nannine. The Cue -people do not want this, as it would make Nannine the centre and spoil -Cue. A splendid court-house and warden’s offices are here, as well as -many other fine public buildings, shops, dwelling-houses, and hotels. - -There are some good mines, but a great many of them are under exemption -at present; that means, allowed to stop working for a specified time -named in their application; consequently many men are out of work and -the town is comparatively quiet, because these men have to go out -back-prospecting, to keep their wives and children. - -There are many families in Victoria and elsewhere who bless the day when -the goldfields of Western Australia were discovered, and a great many -miners in these districts have brought over their wives and families and -have made humble but comfortable homes for them. They all seem happy, and -I have talked with many of the women, who tell me that, though the life -is rather rough, yet they have money always regularly coming in, while, -on the other side, they had nothing to keep themselves with the failure -of the banks and general crash in Melbourne having ruined so many people. - -Coming back from a drive I passed the racecourse, with such a funny -little grand-stand, perched on top of a rocky hill. There was to be a -wild-flower show soon. The ladies were working hard to make it a success. -There seemed to be a great many of them here, and yet it is only a few -years since the arrival of a fair lady in Cue was an event of importance, -in which almost the entire population showed their interest by crowding -round the coach. Wages are still very good. A housekeeper will get £3 a -week; barmaids, £3 10_s._; housemaids and waitresses, £2 10_s._; and a -lady to whom I was speaking told me she was extremely tired, from having -had to do all the washing for the family herself, as the laundrywoman -wanted £1 per day for doing it, or 15_s._ for half a day! Chinese are -sometimes engaged as servants, and, as a rule, give satisfaction. No -Chinaman or coloured man is allowed to mine; in Western Australia they -are tolerated as gardeners or servants only. - -Mr. A. W. Walder has a large station called Coodardy, 20 miles from Cue. -It extends nearly 100 miles up towards Lake Way. There are always 1500 -head of cattle and 4000 or 5000 sheep on it to supply the necessities of -the Cue and Mount Magnet districts. This number is supplemented by drafts -from the far north, even as far as Gascoyne and Kimberley. The feed is -good, as may be supposed from the beautiful quality of the meat. It is -chiefly salt-bush, of which the stock are very fond, and which does not -grow very high, but is most nourishing. The water supply for them is -drawn from wells by blacks kept for that purpose. - -Day Dawn, where the largest mines are situated, is four miles from Cue. -One of these is called the Consolidated Murchison Gold Mines, Limited. -The machinery on these mines is magnificent, and has cost an enormous -sum of money. The cyanide process, all of which the assayer showed me, -was most interesting. The various articles used in assaying are very -delicate—scales that will weigh a breath and little wee china basins -the size of a doll’s cup. The splendid laboratory was full of different -chemicals; there were three immense rooms for the cyanide and assaying -processes. - -Coming back to Cue, I called at the Lady Forrest Mine, which is in quite -a picturesque spot, and I was not surprised at the beautifully arranged -collection of wild flowers and ferns that the manager had picked around -the mine and dried. The mine not working, he had plenty of time to pursue -his favourite pastime of botany. He also showed me a fine collection -of choice orchids; these are found at the Granites, a few miles out. -Parrots, with brilliant colouring, and cockatoos, are to be seen about -here, especially when you are near a soak (well). Occasionally an iguana -glides along, looking like a tiny land-alligator. Iguanas, though not -agreeable to the eye, are considered almost sacred in the Bush, because -they destroy snakes. - -The Island is a wonderful little place, a real treasure-house, 16 miles -from Cue. It is in the centre of the salt lake Austin (called after -Robert Austin, the explorer), from which it is separated by channels 1000 -yards wide. The lake, like all Western Australian lakes, is dry; but when -the sun is shining on it it looks like a sheet of glistening gold. - -The Mainland, dignified sometimes by the name of Salt Lake City, is -a few miles farther off. I do not know whether there are any Mormons -settled there or not. There are several good mines at the Mainland and -the Island. The reefs are highly auriferous. The Golconda is the largest -mine, giving very rich yields, and is now owned by an English syndicate. -The representatives of this mine are very careful not to let outside -people know too much about it; they keep the doors of the battery locked, -and no one is allowed to go in to inspect. The Island Eureka is a small -but rich mine owned by a syndicate on the Island. Mrs. Hurfit, who is -part-owner of the mine, lives close to it. This lady who is the first -white woman that came to these parts, showed me a fine collection of -specimens of all kinds of minerals found here. The gold quartz is very -beautiful. The jewellery Mrs. Hurfit has had made from it by Streeter, of -London, is unique, some of the polished quartz with veins of gold showing -through it being the handsomest I have ever seen. - -[Illustration: COLONEL NORTH’S EXPEDITION TO MOUNT MAGNET] - -Seeing a peculiar-looking place on a hill, I climbed up to see what it -was, and found a large hut composed of big flat stones. These stones were -lying around in great quantities. Some men were working near, but they -were Italians, and as they could not speak English and I could not speak -Italian, our conversation was nil. The view from the hill was charming; -the salt lakes shimmering in the sun, the flat country with the grass -and wild flowers, the low-lying purple hills in the background, a lovely -and most peculiar colouring in the sky, the rising stacks of the mines, -and the high metaphoric rocks in the distance, formed an uncommon and -pretty picture. Just as I was leaving, the sun came out with unusual -brilliancy, casting exquisite reflections on the glistening golden sand, -which seemed to crystallise into various forms. I almost felt as if I had -dropped into fairyland, but in a moment the sun hid behind a cloud and -the beautiful scene was gone. - -There are about 150 people at the Island and Mainland, and they all -appear to be in comfortable positions. On the day I left it was raining -heavily, and I had to wait an hour at the station for the train, which -was late in arriving. This brought to my mind the story of a gentleman -who had promised to attend at a certain place and make a speech, but -found himself unable to do so on account of the heavy rains having -destroyed a section of the railway line. Accordingly he wired, “Cannot -come; wash out on the line.” The reply came: “Come any way; borrow a -shirt.” - -At last the train made its appearance, and I took my seat and went to -Mount Magnet (not to be confused with Mount Margaret, which is in quite -a different part of the country), about 32 miles farther on. On arrival -there the railway station was so crowded that I could scarcely get out. -There were about 300 young men of all sorts and sizes, and with such -jolly smiling faces that I began to feel quite hilarious myself. They -turned out to be the successful footballers just returned from a match at -Cue. Several buggies and horses were waiting at the station, and I had no -difficulty in being conveyed to an hotel, which bore the significant name -of “The Oasis.” - -My first impression of Mount Magnet next morning was that there were a -great many donkeys—I mean, of course, of the four-footed variety. They -seemed to perambulate the town in dozens, and a team of about 20 going -out of town with a wagon was a novel sight. I can assure you that, while -I was writing these words, two inquisitive donkeys put in their heads at -the door and almost said “Good-morning,” recognising a friend, perhaps. -The outlook from this place was very dreary, as nearly always seems to -be the case where gold is found. Several nice specimens had just been -brought into the hotel by a lucky prospector, some of the pieces weighing -several ounces. The Mount is about four miles from Magnet township, and -was named Mount Magnet in 1854 by Mr. Austin, because the stone was so -mineralised that it attract the compass to an extent which rendered it -useless. Despite the barren-looking country, there are many varieties -of wild flowers growing in the neighbourhood, and the desert octopus or -tiger-plant is most remarkable. It bears a fairylike pink flower, and -seems almost to be a living thing. The leaves of the plant are remarkably -sensitive, and there are numerous little caplike flowers fringed with -tentacles and filled with a sweet substance; any insect that approaches -is seized, and the plant, which grows only a few inches in height, and is -also known as “Rainbow” or “Fly-trap,” absorbs the life of it. - -Five miles away is Boogardie, or Jones’ Well. A singular discovery was -recently made there. Portions of underground rock, on being broken, were -found to contain a living frog at a depth of 40 feet! Many of these have -been found. Query, how did they get there? - -There are many tidy houses in the little township; one Hessian camp, -containing three separate rooms, was most tastefully arranged with pretty -art-muslin and cretonne, a nice carpet on the ground, and cane furniture -beautifully draped. The bedroom was quite elegant, and the kitchen had -cocoanut matting on the ground; there were, as usual, no floors. A bright -Peerless Cooker stove and spotlessly white dresser and crockery finished -as natty a little home as a man and woman could wish for. The men out -here all work their own claims, and are very comfortably off. - -A few miles from Magnet is the Morning Star, a low-grade mine, but -still a paying one. Mr. Bryant, the manager, made me most welcome, and -explained to me very conclusively that, to make a mine pay, it is not -necessary to find gold in occasional very large pieces, and that a steady -quantity, though small, will, if the supply hold out, prove profitable. -The mine is worked almost entirely by men from Clunes, Victoria, where -Mr. Bryant formerly was; they have quite a camp of their own, and with -their reading-room and recreation-ground, where they play cricket and -football, they pass a very jolly life and seem quite contented. Total -abstinence is the rule of this mine. Before the train service was started -they had to cart all the machinery and stores 200 miles to the mine. -Farther on is Lennonville, another important mining centre, where rich -finds have lately been struck; and farther still, what is called the -10-Mile. There are many good mines in these localities. The Long Reef is -a fine mine, and with its magnificent new machinery looks imposing. The -plant is one of the finest in Western Australia, and there is enough good -ore to show profitable results for years to come. - -[Illustration: Donkey Team, Mount Magnet] - -Coming back from these mines I stopped at the Lennonville Hotel (to have -dinner), the landlady of which was the biggest woman I had ever seen, she -weighed over twenty-one stone. - -The scenery of this district is far more pleasing than the barrenness -of Magnet township. There are plenty of enormous emus scudding through -the scrub, and occasionally a few kangaroos enliven the scene. Some of -the big hills are completely riddled with enormous holes made by the -earthworm. It must have taken centuries to make these tunnels. I thought -they must be mining excavations, but one of the mining managers, who is -a mining expert and engineer, and who ought to know, told me they were -the work of earthworms. - -In another direction from Magnet is the New Chum Mine; farther on the Two -Chums, and others; all giving good results. - -There is a fine hospital, with a skilful surgeon, such skill being very -necessary where mining accidents ate liable to occur. The country is by -no means unhealthy, and there were only four patients in the hospital -on the day I visited it. The nurses seemed to be very kind women, and -the patients said it was like being nursed at home to be in the Magnet -Hospital. - -East Mount Magnet is about 50 miles away, and the coach journey to it is -tedious. There is a tidy little township, and some of the mines are very -rich. Mr. Zeb. Lane, before going to London last year, paid a visit to -this place, and took over the Windsor Castle Mine, a fine property, upon -which Mr. Lane estimates that there are 25,000 tons of good ore at sight -ready to pay handsome dividends. The Havelock Mine has given splendid -results, and a wonderful collection of specimens was recently lodged in -the Bank. Christmas Gift is another good mine, and not far off is another -rich find called Payneville. Several rich patches have been found and -hundreds of ounces of gold taken out of them. The district seems to have -a bright future before it. I was glad to return to Magnet, and to have -made my last coach journey for the present. One of the miners to whom I -was speaking looked so fearfully cadaverous that I asked him what was the -matter. He told me he had once been poisoned by lead in a mine, and had -never got the poison out of his system. I told him about the new cure by -electricity lately discovered. He seemed very thankful and said he would -see the mine doctor about it at once. Over 30 experiments with this cure -have lately been carried out successfully in England, and I hope it will -soon be generally known, and many cures made in the colonies. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - - Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The - Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis. - - -I reached the uninteresting township of Yalgoo at 2 o’clock, very -cold, tired and hungry. I stepped from the train with my portmanteau -and sallied out of the station to look for a vehicle to take me to the -hotel to which I had been recommended; but, alas! there was no sign of -a conveyance. A drearier-looking place I never saw. So disheartened did -I feel that I returned and got back into the railway carriage again, -intending to resume the journey and go on to Geraldton; but on looking -out of the now open window I saw so many nice and jolly-faced people -on the platform that I thought it might not be so bad a place after -all, so I took a second thought and got out of the carriage once more. -Approaching the gate I discovered a small boy in charge of a cart, on -which I placed my belongings, and told him to take them to the Emerald -Hotel, I walking behind. When we arrived there he put out my luggage -and left me. Not a soul was about the hotel or the street. I felt like -a sailor in a desert. I essayed to reconnoitre the place, and went in -and out of several rooms, with no result. I then tried the kitchen, -and found every one out there also, except the fire, which luckily was -in, so I took possession and sat down on a box to warm myself. Looking -out of the window, I saw two enormous emus stalking about and peering -into everything. I was afterwards told that they are the most curious -birds in existence, and their prying ways often cause them to be taken -captive. Presently the cook turned up; strange to say, a woman cook, as -most cooks in these parts are Japanese men. I asked her for some dinner; -she said she had none in the hotel, it was all at the railway station. -I may as well here explain that the proprietor of the hotel also caters -for the railway station, and his staff goes down there to attend to the -train passengers at the dinner-hour, everybody who requires dinner being -supposed to get it there. The whole male population of Yalgoo goes to see -the train come in; it is the event of the day. However, the cook made me -a nice cup of tea and some hot toast, and boiled some fresh eggs, after -partaking of which I felt myself again. Taking a look out of the front -door I saw the street just as deserted as ever, so, going into a bedroom, -I took a siesta until 4 o’clock, when sounds about the neighbourhood -told me that the townsfolk had returned from the railway station. I -accordingly went forth to make their acquaintance, and having done so I -am able to speak of them in the warmest terms. - -The township being such a barren-looking place I was surprised, on -driving around, to find very beautiful environs. The rains had brought -up millions of wild flowers of all colours, and the grass and trees -were exceptionally green. There are a great many sheep stations in this -district, and the mines are a considerable distance away, so I did -not go to them. The exception was the Emerald Mine, which is almost -in the township, and which has returned its owners a large fortune. -Fifteen thousand pounds worth of gold was dollied out of it before it -was sold to an English company, who then erected machinery and crushed -large quantities of rich ore with big results. It was on this spot that -Yalgoo’s first find was made by a native shepherd and his lubra, who -told some prospectors that they knew of a quartz-heap with bright stuff -on it. You may be sure the prospectors lost no time in finding the heap; -other finds followed, and the Yalgoo rush commenced. Aboriginal shepherds -are almost the only ones to be had in the West, and they are not very -reliable; yet if any animal is lost they can always find it; they are -wonderful trackers, and can follow up the track of anything alive; this -power has been cultivated in them by hunting for food from infancy. - -[Illustration: MARINE TERRACE, GERALDTON] - -The next day I left Yalgoo, longing ardently for a breath of sea air -once more. After a journey of eight hours in the train I arrived at -Geraldton, on the shores of Champion Bay; the town nearest the point at -which the history of the colony really commences. It is a shipping port -for a large agricultural and pastoral country, although as yet only 2000 -acres are under cultivation. I went for many beautiful drives, and one -night to a “social” given by the footballers, to which I was invited; -but as I did not dance, and contented myself with being a “wallflower,” -my participation in the enjoyment was not very keen; I consequently -returned early to my comfortable parlour at the Club Hotel. The new -public buildings here are quite an ornament to the town, and the people -may well be proud of them. There are also some other fine buildings and -many nice shops. Altogether Geraldton is a very jolly place in which to -spend a holiday. It can be reached from Perth by boat instead of the long -train journey of 297 miles, for the steamers going to the far north of -Western Australia and Singapore every fortnight always call; there are -also several coasting-boats. The extensive and rich goldfields of the -Murchison make Geraldton a very important place, and in course of time, -when the North is more known and visited, it will, no doubt, become one -of the most important towns in Western Australia. - -Some beautiful pearls were shown me by a trader from Sharks Bay in the -North-west district of Western Australia, and I wished I were a queen -who could order a necklace of them. As it was I had to content myself -with one for a ring. They were really exquisite gems, especially three -pink ones. The trader also had two black ones, which are rare and very -valuable, but I prefer those of delicate hue. - -Pearls to the value of £285,000 and pearl shell valued at £1,000,000 -have been raised from the North West Fisheries during the last ten -years. Nearly two hundred luggers, with over a thousand Malay, Japanese, -Chinese, and Manilla men, with whites for officers, are engaged in the -pearl industry. For diving, natives are chiefly employed, they being -such wonderful swimmers and divers. Occasionally dissensions take place -between these mixed people and their masters. Not long ago a terrible -tragedy occurred on a pearling vessel, the _Ethel_, and the captain, his -son, and the first mate were cruelly murdered by some of the Manilla -and Malay crew. The offenders escaped at the time, but were afterwards -captured (chiefly by the instrumentality of a poor Chinese cook, who was -loyal), and have since paid the penalty of their terrible crime. - -There is a pretty river near this place, called the Chapman, which falls -into Champion Bay. Garnets are found in the sand near the mouth of it, -and you may be sure that any one who visits the place spends some time -looking for the jewels. I was no exception to the rule, and found a few -small ones, but until they are polished they are not very beautiful. - -The orange groves are exquisite, and produce quantities of splendid -oranges. Mr. Jupp, one of the growers, had just sent into Geraldton some -immense loads, the whole of his golden crop. The rainfall having been -exceptional in the previous season, the country was bright with grass and -flowers. It seemed quite a pity the fine grass should not be feeding more -cattle. - -The view from the top of the lighthouse, where we stopped on the way back -from a river picnic, is very grand. The rocky Abrolhos, 35 miles away, -with the surrounding agricultural country, Champion Bay, and, farther -out still, the grand rolling Indian Ocean, make up a most impressive -scene. The lighthouse has a revolving white light, brilliantly flashing -every 40 seconds, and visible for 16 miles; two other lights, lower -down, showing red rays, visible from the north and south. Another day -I drove to Greenough Flats, a level and fertile plain, with many fine -crops, principally wheat, under cultivation. These flats were, no doubt, -in former days vast lagoons, which accounts for the unlimited supply of -good underground water. The grass is very nutritious, and the sheep and -cattle looked fat. At Minchooka, Mr. Redhead’s station, the stock was -looking exceptionally well, and a fine crop of wheat returned 26 bushels -per acre from 11 acres. Mr. T. McGuiness, of Greenough Back Flats, lately -had a peculiar experience while cleaning out his well, which is 96 feet -deep, and was dry. In the hope of obtaining a fresh supply, Mr. McGuiness -sank the well 13 feet deeper, and, when driving down his bar, struck -water, which spouted up so quickly and with such a rush that he had -hardly time to escape drowning; the water rose 30 feet in a very short -space of time. - -The Greenough river runs between the flats, and there is a nice little -township, with public offices, hotels, churches, and many comfortable -dwelling-houses; there are also several large farms in the district, -which is a magnificent grain-producing one. - -Newmarracarra Station, 20 miles from Geraldton, was formerly the property -of Mr. Maitland Browne, the resident magistrate, who at one time used -his land exclusively for horse-breeding. Thirty thousand acres of the -station are now utilised for sheep-farming at great profit, there are -24,000 sheep on the run in splendid condition, as well as many beautiful -high-bred cattle. Mr. McKenzie Grant, the owner, manages this station -himself, and has spent £55,000 on improvements. A grand water supply -comes from the Greenough river and also from twelve springs in different -parts of the land, which is very picturesque, with its hills and rich -flats, covered with waving grass, and, in some spots, is brilliant with -wild flowers. All kinds of native trees add beauty to the scene. - -Mr. Broadhurst, to whom I am indebted for all the information relating -to the Abrolhos, 35 miles from the mainland, gave me, as a great favour, -a copper coin from the _Batavia_, wrecked there in 1629, also a part of -a pair of scissors that have nearly lost their form, and other relics of -the past. A very interesting curiosity is a pair of large silver buttons -with links, in splendid preservation and very slightly tarnished. The -figures on these buttons represent Joseph and Potiphar’s wife. The -Abrolhos are the abode of countless millions of birds, principally the -noddy and sooty tern, which in the breeding season congregate there -in such numbers that the sky is quite obscured by their flight, and -everything is in almost total darkness. The group of islands have been -leased from the Government since 1883 by Messrs. Broadhurst and McNeill, -who command a very large trade in guano. The main stations in the group -are Rat, Pelsart, and Gun Islands, on each of which there are commodious -managers’ quarters and laboratory, besides kitchen and quarters for 48 -hands. No Australian should neglect to see the relics of the wrecks on -the Abrolhos that are in the Perth Museum. Mr. Broadhurst showed me a -book, printed in the Dutch language, that he accidentally came across -on a London bookstall in 1895, being then on a tour and engaged in -collecting information concerning early Australia. The book bore the date -of 1647, and has since been translated into English by Mr. Siebenhaur, a -Dutch gentleman in Perth, and proved to be, strange to say, a complete -narrative of the wreck of the _Batavia_ and the massacre of the people, -in 1629, at the Abrolhos Islands. The _Batavia_ was the commodore’s ship -of a fleet of eleven vessels sent from Amsterdam in 1628 to the East -Indies in search of treasure and to form a colony on one of the islands. -Storms arose, the commodore’s vessel was separated from the others, and -finally got down among the perilous banks of the Abrolhos, where the -vessel became a wreck. After much danger, the people, numbering several -hundreds—soldiers, sailors, women and children—were landed on two of the -islands, several trips having to be made between the ship and the shore -before this could be effected. Some water and bread was also got ashore, -as well as some cases of treasure, jewels, and gold-laced clothing -belonging to the Dutch Government that the commodore was anxious to save. -The ship shortly afterwards foundered and the hardships of the seafarers -commenced. It was found that there was very little fresh water on the -island, so the commodore, Pelsart, and several of the men set off in -the sloop, which had been saved, to the mainland to look for water for -their fellows. After much difficulty six of them succeeded in landing by -swimming, the shore being stony and rocky, and great breakers beating -violently against the rocks so that it was not safe to take the sloop -in too near. They saw smoke rising, and going towards it, saw four dark -figures creeping on their hands and knees, who, on the approach of the -sailors, leaped to their feet and fled away at full speed. Each carried -a stick, no doubt a boomerang. Around the fires were the bones of birds. -The savages were naked, and were the first ever seen on Australian -soil by white men. The sailors dug holes, trying to find fresh water, -but could find very little, and returned to the ship disconsolate. The -commodore then, knowing that by returning to the islands he could do -no good for his fellow sufferers, determined to return to Batavia for -assistance. On arrival there he obtained speedy help from the Government, -and provided with all necessaries and a good crew, at once set out again -for the Abrolhos to succour the shipwrecked people. On arrival there they -saw, close to where they had been wrecked, smoke from several fires, and -were much rejoiced, hoping to find all or most of the poor people alive. -Having cast anchor, the commodore, taking with him a cask of water, bread -and wine, went in his boat to the highest island, but on arrival there -found no one, at which he was much astonished. Jumping ashore, they saw a -little boat coming round the northern point with four men rowing; one of -them jumped ashore and welcomed the commodore, but begged him to return -to the ship, as there was a party of miscreants who intended to seize the -vessel. He then told the terrible story of the massacre. These miscreants -had murdered 120 people on the island, now called Pelsart Island, or -“Batavia’s Churchyard.” The commodore then sorrowfully returned to the -ship. The man who told the commodore all this was named Webbey Hayes, -and he with forty others had tried their best to save their comrades, -and were then on what they called Long Island. The commodore took some -boats and men and brought them away, arming them with muskets. With -these he proceeded to Batavia’s Churchyard and captured the mutineers. -They found them all dressed in the beautiful clothes trimmed with gold -lace belonging to the Government, and jewels were scattered about in -all directions. The mutineers were divested of their gay clothes, put -in irons and conveyed to Seal Island, to remain there till they should -be tried, which was afterwards done, and they were then executed for -their crimes. This is a very short and crude synopsis of the interesting -translation of the Dutch book of which I have spoken, but may serve to -give some idea of the Abrolhos. The many curios of this time that are -spoken of on page 51 are well worth seeing. Previous to this, in 1540, -Portuguese vessels had been driven on to the coasts of the Great South -Land, as it was called. Houtmann, a Dutchman who had served with the -Portuguese, had sighted the cluster of rocky islets and called them -Abrolhos, a contraction of the Portuguese “Abro vos olhos” (“Keep your -eyes open”). In far-back ages Chinese junks used to sail down to the Gulf -of Carpentaria, and the natives of that part of Australia are now said to -have a distinctly Mongolian cast of countenance. Marco Polo, at the close -of the thirteenth century, alluded to the Great South Land. Allusions -to this unknown land are also met with in writings dating as far back -as Alexander the Great in the fourth century; Strabo, Pliny and Ptolemy -also make mention of a mysterious territory, which was probably the -continent of Australia. Dampier is said to have been the first Englishman -to land on the coast of Western Australia, which was then, in the reign -of William III., called New Holland. His report was so unfavourable, that -Australia was left to itself again until 1770, when Captain Cook landed -at Botany Bay, New South Wales, and not until 60 years afterwards was -Western Australia found to be suitable for colonising. In 1829 the first -governor, Captain (afterwards Sir James) Stirling, with his family and -over 60 settlers, arrived at the Swan River and founded the settlement -which is now the city of Perth; two years previous to this, Captain -Fremantle had hoisted the British flag at the entrance of the river, and -the port of Fremantle is named after him. - -[Illustration: Four generations of the Western Australian Native] - -For some time past I have been collecting all the facts of interest -that I could concerning the natives of Australia, and have gathered a -really fine collection of the native weapons, boomerangs, nulla-nullas, -spears, waddies, womerahs, shields, &c. There are a good many aborigines -about Geraldton at present, but civilisation has made them lazy, and it -is not easy to get many of their weapons. Mine have chiefly been given -to me by friends who have gone to the trouble of collecting them for -years. The blacks are not a very pleasant race, still we ought to have -a kindly feeling for the poor creatures, whose chief capacities seem -to be hunting, fishing, and tracking. Their own laws, and the way they -keep them, are somewhat remarkable, especially those relating to the -affinities and the division of the people into families. - -There are four tribes or clans amongst the aborigines of Western -Australia, namely—Booranggnoo, Banagher, Kimera, Palgarie. A Booranggnoo -man may marry a Banagher woman, their children will be Kimera; a -Banagher man may marry a Booranggnoo woman, their children will be -Palgarie; a Kimera man may marry a Palgarie woman, their children will be -Booranggnoo; a Palgarie man may marry a Kimera woman, their children will -be Banagher. - -Children take the name of the mother, and intermarriage between the same -tribe is not allowed. Polygamy is permitted. A native may have several -wives and various families, but each family incurs the responsibilities -of the mother, and all such relations become involved in the guilt of any -crime; if the offender cannot be reached, any other relative may have -to suffer instead. In case of death by violence, the nearest relative -of the slayer is found and punished. Homicide in obedience to law is -therefore common among them. Their law is blood for blood, an eye for -an eye, a tooth for a tooth. Girls are betrothed when they are young, -and may be claimed at any time. A blackfellow must take his lubra (wife) -from the clan or tribe which alone is eligible to give a wife to him, -otherwise he becomes an outcast. The women are severely punished by the -men even for trifling offences. On the death of the husband the wives and -children pass to his brother; all property in land is held for hunting -and obtaining food. They are very fond of music and dancing, their songs -being chiefly extempore. The dances, or corroborees, are adapted to the -various circumstances of their lives—marriage, birth, death, war or -hunting. It is not usual for the women to take part in these dances, but -on rare occasions they do, and they carry a peeled stick tufted at one -end, as was the custom of the ancient Bacchantes. Songs are composed -by musical natives of the clan, and are soon learnt: every blackfellow -knows the songs of his clan, and if one is composed for any special -occasion it is soon learned. The food of these natives is very varied and -peculiar, one kind being the knomat, the gum of the swamp mimosa. There -are also six kinds of kangaroo eaten, two kinds of opossum, twenty-nine -sorts of fish, three kinds of turtle, emu, wild turkey, and many kinds -of waterfowl; frogs, seven kinds of lizards, four kinds of grubs, -twenty-nine roots, seven fungi, four gums, two kinds of manna, four -fruits, four nuts—two of the zamia, which are poisonous without proper -preparation—the seeds of many plants and the flowers of the banksia. -Cannibalism is not common, but has been known in the North and East. -The weapons employed are suited for the chase as well as war. These are -the codja or hatchet, the dabba or knife, the meera or throwing-stick, -the guicka or spear, the dowark or club, the womerah or digging-stick, -and the killy or boomerang, which they throw with great skill. Their -skill in hunting is remarkable, weirs are made for fish, stakes driven -to intercept the kangaroos at their watering-places, and the fish are -commonly speared by day and by torchlight. Their mias, or huts, vary -in construction from a light shell made of brushwood to a dome, large -enough to contain several persons, of logs covered with clay, and in size -according to season and locality. From the Murchison northward, and also -in the interior, the natives go naked; but southward, near the coast, -the dress is the “booka,” a sort of cloak made of kangaroo-skins, that -of the men being longer than that of the women, who use bags of skin, -coota or boka, and mats of vegetable fibre, for carrying their children -and domestic necessaries. They have many ornaments, and work opossum fur -with yarn to make girdles for carrying things and bands to twine round -the head to stick feathers in. They tattoo their bodies, and during the -operation of tattooing, other natives swing round small curved pieces of -wood, producing a whirring noise. They cover themselves with wilgey, a -sort of red ochre, charcoal, or white clay. They send messages by marked -sticks or bomar, the markings being quite intelligible to them, but to us -just looking like a number of jagged chips in the sticks. They are not -deficient in gratitude, but rather treacherous, although they will offer -themselves up for punishment, a thing which very few white men ever do. -They are very superstitious; the power of evil is a constant source of -terror to them. They have their karakats, boolga-men, or medicine-men, -able to inflict as well as cure diseases. They greatly fear an evil -spirit, Jingie, and an imaginary monster, Wangul, inhabiting the fresh -waters, and chiefly making victims of women. Each family has its kobong, -or cognisance, some animal or vegetable for which they have a reverence, -and which, therefore, is not used as food by the family who adopt it. -Some of the domestic and personal habits of the natives resemble those -inculcated by the laws of Moses. Their social intercourse is regulated -by very strict and ceremonious customs. There are forms of meeting, -also forms of parting. Mrs. Canfield, who had charge of the school at -Amesfield, Albany, especially reports their fondness for music. One girl, -sent to Sydney, played the harmonium in St. Philip’s Church for some -time. Several other native scholars have become good housewives; some are -now employed as school-teachers. Mrs. Canfield also notes the fondness of -the boys for mechanical arts. The native Mission home is near Guildford, -and another is in the Vasse district, but there are only about 40 -children in each place. The natives around Geraldton are half-civilised; -in fact, some speak quite good English. I suppose the heavy fine of -£50 for supplying drink to natives keeps them sober, as they find it -difficult to obtain strong drink, of which they are very fond. They have -been known to go to a large heap of bottles, and taking one, empty into -it the dregs of all the others, until they get sufficient to take a -drink, which they seem to relish exceedingly. - -[Illustration: Aborigines with Spears] - -Native wells or “namma-holes” have saved may a prospector from death by -thirst, and men well used to the Bush soon know how to find them. Some -of the wells are not more than two feet deep; others go down to ten or -twelve feet, and are usually found by rock-holes, or certain trees that -are near them. Some wells have a small drive at the bottom, so arranged -by the blacks that, when the water gets shallow, it cannot be seen from -the top of the hole. The old prospectors have learned from the blacks -how to find these oases in the desert, but “new chums” might pass dozens -while parched with thirst and never find one. - -After saying good-bye to the numerous friends I had made in Geraldton, I -set out for the south in the Perth mail-train, my destination, however, -being Dongarra, a little station 24 miles from Geraldton. On alighting -there I found that the hotel was some distance off, and I regretted that -I had got out of the train at all. However, a good-natured boy with -a cart solved my dilemma by saying: “Get up, missus, I’ll give you a -lift.” I accepted his invitation with much pleasure, and drove on through -wonderful grass lands. I thought, as it waved in the wind, that this must -be a cultivated crop, but found it to be common wild grass. A great deal -of the land about here is rented to the farmers at 10_s._ per acre, and -they have an average yield of 16 to 25 bushels of wheat and 30 bushels -of barley. Wheat can be grown at a large profit, as the cost of growing -it is not more than 4_d._ a bushel, and the timber being light in the -district, the expense of clearing the land is small. - -There are a number of farms about Dongarra, which is one of the prettiest -little country places I have seen in the colony. The township is situated -near the mouth of the Irwin river, and so there is no lack of water. -There is a small and safe harbour at Dongarra, formed by a reef at the -river’s mouth, which is the outlet to the valley of the river. There are -many early settlers living here. The following notice that was fastened -on a tree I thought very comical: “If any man or woman’s cows or horses -get into this paddock, his or her tail will be forthwith cut off, with no -respect to persons.” This is on a par with a letter written by a justice -of the peace in one of the places that shall be nameless:— - - “To J. murphy: thars 5 kows of yourse runnin in mi paddock and - if they aint tuk out be Frida nite ime goin to sit the lor agen - yer; ime on the binch and ile make it warm for yer.” - -The little hotel at Dongarra proved very comfortable, and next morning I -resumed my journey in the train, which took all day. In the afternoon we -stopped for awhile at a place called Watheroo. I gathered a pretty bunch -of wild flowers while waiting; some red ones especially took my fancy. -They smelt very sweet, something like honeysuckle. I found that they were -of the “verticordia” species, and that they grow in great profusion near -the Irwin river. In the evening, at seven o’clock, I left the train at -Gingin, for I wanted to see some of the famous orange and lemon groves -there. After quite a pastoral supper at the little inn where I put up I -retired early, feeling somewhat fatigued after my long journey in the -slow train. In the morning I set out to see some of the groves. The -forest scenery through which I passed looked particularly grand after -the monotony of the goldfields, and the beautiful orange groves further -enhanced the scene. I have seen oranges growing in various parts, but -the fruit hanging here in golden clusters was the finest I had seen -in Western Australia. In returning I stopped at a large garden, where -strawberries and other fruits were growing; some children were picking -the ripe fruit, which looked so tempting that I went to the door of the -little homestead and asked whether I could buy some. “Oh, certainly, and -cream, too,” replied the mother of the children, who had now come in with -their spoils from the garden. After I had finished my unexpected treat, -the mother put on her big white sun-bonnet (the usual head-covering in -country parts), and, with the children following, showed me all over -her selection and farm (which was a very fine one), and, with true -Australian hospitality, pressed on me many gifts of fruit and flowers. -There are about 350 people in the district of Gingin, mostly gardeners -and graziers; all kinds of cereals are grown, as well as the fruits I -have mentioned, and grapes of the finest quality are produced. Fat cattle -and horses are also raised for export; a splendid clear stream of water -runs near the township; sportsmen can have good shooting, for kangaroo; -wallaby and wild duck are abundant in the vicinity of this pretty little -place, which is 50 miles from Perth. - -[Illustration: FREMANTLE] - -In the morning I took the train for Perth and Fremantle, and on arrival -at the Perth railway station there, waiting for me, were my own horse -and Ralli car. Didn’t we spin along through the park? I thought of -the Mulga scrub and red dust “out back”; here the roads were red, but -“with a difference,” and the grass and the trees delightfully fresh and -green; surely the water never looked so sparkling. In and out through -the trees along the winding road we drove, past the little villas, with -their sweet gardens, up the hill, around the bend to the dearest spot on -earth, “Home, sweet home.” The house and verandah were almost hidden by -the glossy green leaves of the “Canadia” and passion vines; through the -lattice of the fern-houses peeped the delicate pink blossoms of the tall -ivy-geranium twined with the ever-flowering purple runner. The gate-porch -and garden fence were embroidered from end to end with blue and green. -Blue sea beyond, blue sky above. The gate was open, and thus my journey -of two thousand miles came to an end. I hope that my record of it may -help the reader to gain an idea of Western Australia. - -Our hands are outstretched to our brothers and sisters across the sea. -We want them to come and work _with_ us. Energy and courage are the best -cards to bring out to this big land. Should they wish to see the country -for themselves, as I have done, I trust that my efforts will help to make -their tour as easy as possible. - -Like all new countries, it has its rough uncultivated tracts, but I have -also tried to show that it has its “meadow sweet” as well. Hundreds of -thousands of acres of the soil are waiting to be tilled by strong willing -hands and to yield richly of its fruits, while underneath the earth is -“golden,” “golden,” overhead the glorious sun is shining, and the Austral -sky is blue. - -[Illustration: MAY VIVIENNE] - - - - -FOOTNOTES - - -[1] These are names given to each other by the Australian-born people of -the then separated colonies. - -[2] For most of these particulars of the early days of the goldfields I -am indebted to Mr. Calvert’s book, “The Coolgardie Goldfield,” 1894. - -[3] A stope is the part of the workings in a mine between the levels. - -[4] The levels are the drives, or excavations, at different depths in a -mine. - -[5] Since the above was written the mine has been sunk over 100 feet, and -Mr. Merton has now gold valued at over a hundred thousand pounds. - -[6] The nut of the tree that, when polished, makes pretty ornaments. - - Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO. - London & Edinburgh - -[Illustration: The Golden Butterfly] - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN -AUSTRALIA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Western Australia, by May Vivienne</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Travels in Western Australia</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>being a description of the various cities and towns, goldfields, and agricultural districts of that state</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: May Vivienne</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: October 19, 2022 [eBook #69184]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: MWS and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA ***</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_i"></a>[i]</span></p> - -<h1>TRAVELS IN<br /> -WESTERN AUSTRALIA</h1> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ii"></a>[ii]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="box"> - -<p class="center larger">TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA<br /> -<span class="smaller">Some Press Opinions of the First Edition</span></p> - -<p><i>The Daily Chronicle</i>: “This book is a pleasant -and interesting one; it tells what somebody really -saw and felt, not what somebody thought the -proper thing to say. The average man will find -May Vivienne a delightful and exhilarating guide -to the still only half-understood pleasures and -resources of Western Australia.”</p> - -<p><i>The Empire Review</i>: “It contains much first-hand -information, clearly given, concerning the -cities, goldfields, and agricultural districts of -Western Australia. It is well illustrated, and will -be found a most useful work of reference.”</p> - -<p><i>The Financial Times</i>: “Among the several -books published dealing with Western Australia, -we know of few, if any, which are at once so -entertaining and so instructive as this volume. -Any one who desires to obtain in a most pleasant -way a good general knowledge of this distant -colony could scarcely do better than purchase this -book. As a mere record of travel, apart from its -special interest as dealing with a gold-producing -colony, it is well worth reading, and it contains a -profusion of interesting illustrations.”</p> - -<p><i>The Pall Mall Gazette</i>: “Miss Vivienne knows -her Westralia up and down; she takes us to farms -and timber estates; she has visited the goldfields -more than once, inspected all the chief mines, -pegged a claim with her own hand, and pluckily -traversed the pioneer fringe of civilisation. Her -delightful journeys, which (with admirable illustrations) -take us over the whole country, reveal its -astounding promise, which has already largely -become performance.”</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a>[iii]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iv"></a>[iv]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp53" id="illus01" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus01.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><i>John Forrest</i></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage larger">TRAVELS IN<br /> -WESTERN AUSTRALIA</p> - -<p class="center">BEING A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS<br /> -CITIES AND TOWNS, GOLDFIELDS, AND<br /> -AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS<br /> -OF THAT STATE</p> - -<p class="titlepage"><span class="smaller">BY</span><br /> -MAY VIVIENNE</p> - -<p class="titlepage">WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS</p> - -<div class="figcenter titlepage illowp75" style="max-width: 9.375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/heinemann.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="titlepage">LONDON<br /> -WILLIAM HEINEMANN<br /> -<span class="smaller">1902</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a>[vi]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller"><i>First Edition, May 1901</i><br /> -<i>Second Edition, January 1902</i></p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller"><i>All rights reserved</i></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage">“<i>He Masters whose Spirit Masters</i>”</p> - -<p class="dedication">DEDICATED TO<br /> -<span class="larger">THE RIGHT HON. SIR JOHN FORREST</span><br /> -P.C., K.C.M.G., G.C.M.G.<br /> -EX-PREMIER OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA<br /> -AND<br /> -MINISTER FOR FEDERAL DEFENCE<br /> -IN THE COMMONWEALTH<br /> -OF<br /> -UNITED AUSTRALIA</p> - -<p class="titlepage">“<i>Steer thou with good strong hand and wary eye, oh Helmsman</i>”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a>[viii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><i>AUTHOR’S NOTE</i></h2> - -</div> - -<p><i>Some readers may be disposed to question the accuracy -of my statements regarding the mines, and the actual -wealth in gold of the State. I can assure them that these -statements are absolutely devoid of exaggeration, and -capable of being easily verified.</i></p> - -<p><i>This is true also of what is said respecting timber, fruits, -and agricultural produce.</i></p> - -<p><i>Finally, my hope in issuing this volume is that it may -induce people not only to visit but to settle in Western -Australia, and so share in the benefits offered by its -prolific tracts.</i></p> - -<p class="right"><i>M. V.</i></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix"></a>[ix]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2> - -</div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER I</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old - Colonists—Travelling Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle - Farm—Porongurup—Land Regulations—King George’s Sound</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Pp. 1-14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER II</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely - Wildflowers</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Pp. 15-28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER III</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation - Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free”</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Pp. 29-40</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady Forrest—Cambria—Mayor - of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park Races</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Pp. 41-46</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER V</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South Perth—The - Old Mill—Moonlight</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_V"> Pp. 49-69</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The Chine—Cottesloe—The - Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Pp. 70-83</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x"></a>[x]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Rottnest—Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The - Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">Pp. 84-89</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Guildford—Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John Forrest—Darling - Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop - Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Pp. 90-105</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native - Murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old - Residents</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Pp. 106-117</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER X</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A - Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great Forest</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">Pp. 118-123</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All aboard”—Karridale—Touring - the Forest—King Karri—The Sand Patch</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">Pp. 124-136</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape Leeuwin</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">Pp. 137-147</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The Mission—Northam—The - Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The Show</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">Pp. 148-158</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XIV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking on - Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato Ground—Bayley’s - Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great Boulder Find—The - Londonderry</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">Pp. 159-175</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi"></a>[xi]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting a - Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward Mine—Bonnie Vale—Londonderry—Nearly - Lost—King Solomon’s Mine—Hampton Plains</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"> Pp. 176-195</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XVI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial - Treasures</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">Pp. 196-203</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XVII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. Kaufman—Early - Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View Consols and Great - Boulder</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">Pp. 204-223</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XVIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder Perseverance—The - Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting the Rock—British - Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our own Zeb. - Lane—Kalgoorlie Again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the Goldfields</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">Pp. 224-236</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XIX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father - Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"> Pp. 237-245</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in the - Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and Cake—Native - Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat of the - Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh Water</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">Pp. 246-256</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold Everywhere—A - Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! Murrin!—A Welcome - Surprise—Western Australian Mount Morgans—Golden Hills—Blackfellows - on the Trail—The Lagoon</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">Pp. 257-268</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a>[xii]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass Widowers—More - Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle Nugget—Euro - Mine—Hospitality in the Bush</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">Pp. 269-279</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More Nuggets—Gold - Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the Fair Sex—Saturday - Life—Alas, poor Prospectors!</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">Pp. 280-291</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXIV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount Sir Samuel—While - the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across the Country—The - “Back-blocks”—Camping Out—Arrival at Nannine—Bed Once - More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak Hill—The Gold Patch—An - Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">Pp. 292-312</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet Flowers - Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The Mirage—Jolly - Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The Morning Star—Windsor - Castle</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">Pp. 313-324</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER XXVI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The - Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">Pp. 325-344</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -</div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdpg"><i>Page</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Right Hon. Sir John Forrest</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus01"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Bird’s-eye View of Albany</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus02">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The “<span class="antiqua">Omrah</span>” at Albany</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus03">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>A Part of Kendinup Station</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus04">5</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Civilised Aborigines at Kendinup Station</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus05">11</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Residency, Albany</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus06">13</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Homestead, Kendinup Station</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus08">17</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hauling Logs at the Mills</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus09">19</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus10">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>York</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus11">25</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Moirs’ Buildings</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus12">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Swan River, Perth</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus13">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hay Street, Perth</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus14">31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Perth Railway Station</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus15">33</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Melville Water</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus16">35</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Perth Water</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus17">37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mount Eliza and Swan River</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus18">43</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>St. George’s Terrace</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus19">47</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>City of Perth</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus20">53</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Aboriginal Camp</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus21">55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Driving in Perth Park, at the Summit</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus22">59</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Gathering Wildflowers</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus23">63</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>South Perth from the Banks of the Swan</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus24">67</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Fremantle Pier</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus25">70</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Freshwater Bay, Claremont</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus26">73</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>North Fremantle</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus27">77</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>High Street, Fremantle</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus28">81</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Government House, Perth</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus29">87</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a>[xiv]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hon. H. J. Saunders</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus30">91</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Government Bore, near Mundaring</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus31">93</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lunatic Asylum, Western Australia</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus32">99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Paper Bark Tree</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus33">106</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lady Forrest</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus34">109</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Bunbury</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus35">115</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Blackwood River</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus36">118</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Davies’ Karridale Timber Station</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus37">129</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Felling the Giant Karri</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus38">132</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Sand Patch</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus39">133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Cave</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus40">139</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lighthouse</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus41">145</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Newcastle</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus42">149</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Avon River</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus43">157</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus44">159</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Teams Returned to Southern Cross from Coolgardie</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus45">163</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus46">166</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Bayley’s Reward Mine—Underlay Shaft</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus47">169</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus48">176</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Early Days, Coolgardie</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus49">177</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Water Condenser—Filling the Water-bag</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus50">183</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Burbanks Grand Junction Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus51">187</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Vale of Coolgardie Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus52">188</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Jubilee at Red Hill Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus53">191</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Golden Butterfly Nugget</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus54">196</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Main Shaft. Butterfly Leases</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus55">197</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Miners’ Holiday</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus56">201</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus57">204</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus58">207</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus59">208</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Great Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus60">213</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Overlooking the Great Boulder</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus61">215</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hannan’s Star Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus62">217</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>The Ivanhoe Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus63">219</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mr. Zebina Lane</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus64">221</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus65">226</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus66">227</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mr. Frank L. Gardner</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus67">231</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hannan’s Public Crushing Company</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus68">233</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus69">234</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xv"></a>[xv]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus70">237</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Deep Lead, Kanowna</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus71">240</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus72">243</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus73">246</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Part of Lady Shenton Battery</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus74">248</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Messrs. A. Forrest and J. Dunn on a Prospecting Tour</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus75">251</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Merton’s Find, Mertondale</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus76">257</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mr. Alick Forrest Inspecting Dunn’s Shaft near Mount Morgans</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus77">261</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Westralian Mount Morgans Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus78">265</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mine at Laverton</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus79">269</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Miners’ Camp, Laverton</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus80">273</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus81">280</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Camels at Diorite King</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus82">285</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Auction Sale, Goldfields (Tin Hotel)</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus83">287</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Off by Coach to Lawlers</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus84">292</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lake Way Gold Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus85">293</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Kangaroo</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus86">297</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>A Well near Lake Way</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus87">300</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Lubra and Pickaninny</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus88">301</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Dry-blowing in the Golden West</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus89">307</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Mine at Cue</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus90">313</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus91">315</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Colonel North’s Expedition to Mount Magnet</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus92">319</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Donkey Team, Mount Magnet</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus93">323</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Marine Terrace, Geraldton</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus94">327</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Four Generations of the Western Australian Native</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus95">334</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Aborigines with Spears</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus96">338</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Distant View of Fremantle</i></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus97">341</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus02" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus02.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Bird’s-Eye View of Albany</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</h2> - -<p>Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old -Colonists—Travelling Dairy—Splendid -Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land Regulations—King -George’s Sound.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp78" id="illus03" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus03.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The <i>Omrah</i> at Albany</p> -</div> - -<p>Having travelled all over Tasmania, Queensland, New South -Wales, Victoria, and South Australia (now United Australia), -I one day made up my mind to -set out for the land of gold, Western -Australia, that has created such a -<i>furore</i> in these last few years. -Accordingly I took my -passage from Sydney in the -mail-steamer <i>Omrah</i> and, -after a very charming -voyage on board that -splendid vessel, landed at -Albany. It was a lovely -day, and the first things -that pleasantly greeted the -passengers on stepping from the tug-boat to the wharf were -various small boys with huge bunches of the exquisite-smelling<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span> -boronia, of which I had often heard. Pretty little -Albany looked charming. The day was really perfect in -its loveliness; the country round looked like an exquisite -emerald robe fringed with pearl and sapphire, the grand blue -mountains in the distance, the opal sea, with its white-winged -yachts and various sailing vessels lying at anchor in beautiful -Princess Royal Harbour; the blue sky above, with here and there -a tiny white cloud like a dove carrying a message to heaven; the -matchless wild flowers springing around in profusion, and the -scent of the sweet boronia wafting on the breeze from the -gullies, where it grows in such luxuriance that one wonders no -scent farm has been started to distil the exquisite perfume, made -the drive taken by most of us before lunch most delightful. The -peacefulness of this charming place was broken only by the -arrival of the great steamers, with their crowds of passengers, -who always went ashore for an hour or so, some of them to take -the train <i>en route</i> to Perth, Fremantle, or the goldfields; the -others, after driving, lunching, or dining, as time will allow, at -the Freemasons’ Hotel (where I put up for a week), returning -to the steamer to continue their passage “home,” as all we -Australians call dear mother England.</p> - -<p>After an excellent lunch at the above-named hotel we set out -to view the surroundings of Albany.</p> - -<p>On that day everything really looked so beautiful that one -might believe Nature to have put on her most attractive garb -for us, as if to say, “Why go from here?” Driving round the -Marine Drive to Middleton Beach, we thought nothing could be -lovelier than the view to which no attraction seemed wanting. -The calm and stillness were broken only by a few other -tourists, also feasting their eyes on this scene of beauty. It is -a five-mile drive to Middleton Beach. The beach forms a circle -of some three miles. Mount Clarence is in the background; in -front is the land-locked Princess Royal Harbour, with its narrow -gateway for the passage of ships; tiny bays surround it, and -the picturesque islands look like so many lions guarding the -portal. This is a favourite place for picnics; family parties are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span> -often here in numbers; the water is so limpid and shallow -that children can dabble about to their hearts’ content; the -sand is beautifully white and firm, and many little spades and -buckets are employed in making sandhouses. Afternoon tea-parties -are also quite an institution; it is considered quite “the -thing” to bring a party of friends to tea, and, if you do not wish -to have it <i>al fresco</i>, there is the pretty Esplanade Hotel, where -everything, from afternoon teas to wedding breakfasts, is served -up in most excellent fashion.</p> - -<p>Another beauteous spot near Albany is Little Grove. The -day I went the steamer was full, it being a holiday. Launches -were plying from jetty to jetty, taking parties of picnickers to -the pretty shady groves. A regatta was also being held, and -many people were watching it. It was a pretty sight to see -the contest of the boats as they sailed merrily round the lovely -bay. The weather was exquisite, but a strong breeze was -blowing; good seamanship was called into play in the sailing of -the yachts and robust muscular exertion in the rowing events. -Albany may well be called the sanatorium of the colony. The -air is so invigorating that, after being there only a few days, -one feels almost a new being. Any one suffering from brain -fag or exhaustion cannot do better than go to Albany for a -holiday. One need only look at the faces of the children, see -their healthy looks, bright eyes and general activity, to know -that they have been born and brought up amongst healthy -surroundings. One feature of the children is their beautiful -hair; many possess such luxuriant tresses that one feels -inclined to envy the lovely colour and beauty of them, and to -wish one also had been born in Albany.</p> - -<p>The town possesses some very good buildings, and, although -not of very large extent, is well laid out. It lies between the -Mounts Clarence and Melville, and the many dwellings on the -hillsides give it a most quaint and charming appearance. The -principal places are the Town Hall, Post Office, Customs House -Office, and large sheds, also some fine stores. There are still some -very old structures standing, for Albany is an old town, Princess<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span> -Royal Harbour having been called after the daughter of King -George of England. The old-fashioned church of St. John has -been beautified by the hand of time and adorned with a mantle of -ivy green. Many stone cottages show the primitive way of -building that prevailed in 1836. The gaol, built about that year, -and in much the same style, still exists, but the stocks then in -use have almost disappeared. A very old woman to whom I -was speaking told me she remembered three women at a time -being put into them. Other evidences of days gone by are -immense heaps of bleached whalebones lying about in some -parts. Albany was once a fishing village frequented by traders -of all countries, who did a large trade in whale-oil, seals, &c., -and exchanged for these things not only coin but also potatoes -and fruit. There were evidently stirring times in Albany in -those early days, and it was not an uncommon thing to see nine -whales at a time disporting themselves in the harbour. The -huge mail-steamers must have frightened them all away, for a -whale is now a rare visitor. I spent a pleasant hour at the -house of Mr. J. McKenzie, which in the ’fifties was the only -hotel in Albany, and was known as The Thistle. It was -also the general concert-hall and theatre. There were no -theatrical companies in Western Australia in those days, and the -small community used to get up its own entertainments without -aid from outside. Among the relics cherished by Mr. McKenzie -is the speaking-trumpet used by his father, a master mariner, -an imposing-looking instrument of brass, something like a -cornet. A magnificent double-pearl shell, with five or six -lovely pearls embedded in its sides, must be of great value.</p> - -<p>One of the most prominent early colonists was Captain John -Hassell, who, after calling two or three times in his brig -the <i>Belinda</i>, being wrecked, and undergoing many hardships, -was still so much attracted by the splendid locality that he -resolved to settle here, took another trip to Sydney, N.S.W., -and returned with his family in 1838, bringing with him 700 -sheep, 12 horses, 20 head of cattle, poultry, 15 men, also -rations for twelve months. Captain Hassell went first to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span> -Strawberry Hill and afterwards to Kendinup Station, where a -fine mansion stands, which now belongs to his son, John -Hassell. It comprises 41,144 acres of freehold and 122,000 -acres of leasehold property; the area is 225 square miles, and -there are 320 miles of fencing on it. 6000 sheep are on the -run, and one magnificent flock of imported sheep cost Mr. Hassell -£4000. The samples of wool I saw from this station are really -splendid. There is a plentiful supply of water, one well being -80 feet deep, and nearly always full. There are 30 civilised -natives on the station, photographs of five of whom are here -given.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus04" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus04.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">A PART OF KENDINUP STATION</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p> - -<p>Albany has been connected with the capital by rail since -1886; previous to that time the overland journey of more than -300 miles was made by mail-coach or private conveyance over -a very lonely road. The first railway here was negotiated -by the late Mr. Anthony Hordern, of Sydney, N.S.W., and constructed -under the land-grant system by a company of which he -was director-chairman. Mr. Hordern took up large grants -of land near Albany, having a high opinion of its agricultural -possibilities. He had also large schemes for the future of the -south-west part of the colony, and intended to build agricultural -colleges to teach people how to use the splendid soil to advantage. -Unfortunately Mr. Hordern did not live to complete the -schemes; he died at sea, and a splendid monument to his -memory tops the incline of the principal street in Albany. The -late Premier, Sir John Forrest, said he remembered taking a -journey from Albany to Perth in 1880, when the coach broke -down at a distance of some 40 or 50 miles from the town, and -it was necessary to get a team and travel by it another 40 or 50 -miles; also many other difficulties were encountered before -arriving at Perth, and the journey took a week. My own -experiences when I visited this colony in 1882 were worse -than the Premier’s. I landed in Albany with a party of four -others; we hired two conveyances and four horses, paying £50 -for them, provisioned for ten days, and set off through the -sand and bush. As it took us sixteen days to perform the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> -journey, as very little food could be obtained anywhere, and as -we arrived at our journey’s end with only two horses, the other -two having died on the way, the pleasures of that expedition -can better be imagined than described.</p> - -<p>The garden lands which lie in the valleys close to the town -are being largely cultivated, and selectors from England -and elsewhere are frequently arriving with the intention of -taking up selections, and undertaking dairy farming and market -gardening. The new travelling dairy instituted by the Government -will be a great boon; it will have all the latest appliances, -and the plant will be erected in places where the people have not -facilities for making butter, &c., and persons who do not understand -the process can be instructed. The yield from this district -is one ton of hay, or fifteen bushels of wheat, per acre. This -quantity has been exceeded at Toobrunup Lake, where the yield -was twenty bushels per acre. Further proof of the fertility of -the soil is given by the fact that cabbages grown at Mr. Horton’s -selection weighed from 20 to 30 lb., and grew to maturity in -thirteen weeks. Forty-two tons of cabbage came off three -acres of land last year, and brought £10 per ton. Potatoes -from the farm at Strawberry Hill, cultivated 60 years ago by -Sir R. Spencer, weigh over a pound each, so that at dinner you -are not asked to take potatoes but a part of one. These -potatoes are really stupendous; one that I had in my hand -I measured, and found it to be nearly a foot long, and wide -in proportion! Seventy tons of these gigantic tubers, grown -without the aid of any fertilisers, were taken from nine -acres. Turnips flourish in the same way and grow to the -weight of 3 and 5 lb. It is not “some pumpkins,” as they -say in America, but “some turnips,” as they say in Australia. -Onions also grow to an immense size, often weighing over -6 lb. each.</p> - -<p>Albany and its surroundings are really as near perfection as -it is possible for any place to be. It has a heavenly summer -climate, the coolest in Australia. A day is considered hot if -the mercury rises above 80°. During the week of the terrible<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span> -heat-wave, when in other parts of the colony the temperature -was from 110° to 115°, the record heat here was 95°. There -are never by any chance hot winds. The grass is always -green and flowers are always blooming. With its miles of -harbour frontage, its lovely valleys nestling at the foot of its -grand hills, its beautiful river, and the natural drainage which -keeps the little town always clean and healthy, no wonder -it should be regarded as the very choicest of health resorts. -The rainfall is abundant, and the district seldom suffers from -frost. The winters are very mild, snow has only been known -to fall two or three times, and then was so novel a sight as to -excite wonder in all the native-born Albanians. Last winter, -however, Mr. Knight, of Wattle Farm, carted into town a huge -snowball that had been rolled on his farm in the Porongurup -ranges, which then were covered with snow, and afforded the -grandest spectacle ever seen here. At Mr. Knight’s farm and -orchard some magnificent fruit is grown, the apples being -sometimes over a pound in weight. I shall never forget the -lovely sight of that orchard. It is on an elevation of 1200 feet -above the sea-level, and commands a view of the rich and -fertile valleys around. The soil is of a rich deep chocolate -colour, and the country is stated by experts to be volcanic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span></p> - -<p>Besides being endowed with beauty and richness of soil, -Albany is likely to become famous as a coal- and gold-producing -district, for coal has recently been found, and a company which -will make further researches formed. Timber also is abundant, -and copper has recently been found at the Phillips River, -about 180 miles away. Thousands of people who have -gone direct to the goldfields have no idea of the beauty of this -place. They only think of Western Australia as a place in which, -to look for gold, and when that has been obtained in sufficiency, -to be left behind as quickly as possible. Tinned fruits, meat -and vegetables have until recently been the staple food of -dwellers in the goldfields; but, as population increases and -fertile lands are taken up and cultivated, a sufficiency of fresh -fruits for all requirements will probably be produced before long.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus05" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus05.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">CIVILISED ABORIGINALS AT KENDINUP STATION</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span></p> - -<p>The land regulations of Western Australia are so favourable -to the colonist that, if well known in England and upon the -continent of Europe, they would probably attract many families -of the vine-growing, artisan, and small capitalist classes. Any -person over the age of eighteen, who is the head of a family, -can take up an area of 160 acres of land for a free or homestead -farm. A deposit of £1 is required as a guarantee of -<i>bona fides</i>. The applicant must live on the land for six months -of each year, and within two years must spend £30 in clearing -or cropping, or put down two acres of garden, orchard or -vineyard; within five years, one quarter of the selection must -be fenced and one-eighth cropped; within seven years the -whole area must be fenced, and one quarter cultivated. The -selector then becomes entitled to his certificate of title, after -having paid for it and the cost of survey. Direct purchase -can be made, if desired, of from 100 to 5000 acres. The land -is valued at 10<i>s.</i> per acre, of which 10 per cent. is payable on -application and the balance by four quarterly instalments. -Applicants must fence in the course of three years and spend -5<i>s.</i> per acre within seven years, and then can acquire their -certificates of title. Grazing farms can be taken up at a rental -of 2½<i>d.</i> per acre. Pastoral leases, or grass rights for grazing -purposes, can be got for the nominal rental of 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per 1000 -acres per annum and upwards. Garden lots, from 5 up to -50 acres, can be obtained. In this case the land is valued at -20<i>s.</i> per acre, and the plot must be fenced within three years, -one-tenth to be put under cultivation as a <i>bona fide</i> garden. -The terms are 10 per cent. deposit on application and the -balance in six half-yearly instalments. In addition to all this, -the Government have done yet more to induce land settlements -by offering assistance from the Agricultural Bank, created by -the late Premier, Sir John Forrest, for the benefit of all who -desire to make a home in Western Australia. This bank will -lend money on freeholds at conditional purchase (already -fenced) to the amount of £800. An application fee of 1 per -cent. on the loan is demanded, and this amount covers cost of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> -inspection and mortgage. The amount lent is repayable by -the borrower in thirty years; for the first five years the interest -is payable half-yearly. At the sixth year a sinking fund of -4 per cent. commences, and continues until the end of the thirty -years, when the debt is wiped out. There are Government -land agents in nearly every agricultural town of the colony, and -a would-be selector arriving and communicating with the Government -agent receives all the assistance he wishes in making his -selection. The present population of Albany is about 3500.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus06" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus06.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The Residency, Albany</p> -</div> - -<p>A fine Quarantine Station has lately been built at a cost of -£10,000. The forts are very interesting. No doubt, in the -future Albany will become an important Naval station. An -Imperial Officer of the Royal Artillery is in command, there is -a small garrison, and some murderous-looking guns are in -readiness to give a warm reception to any enemy who may -appear. Before leaving Albany I accepted an invitation to take -a trip out into the Sound. This was named by Vancouver, in -1791, King George’s Sound, after the then reigning sovereign -of England. It is sheltered by magnificent granite rocks or -headlands, and the anchorage is perfect, for the islands of -Breaksea, Michaelmas, and Haul Off Rock—an immense block -of stone, almost like a mediæval fortress—break the ocean -swell. The beauties of King George’s Sound have been well -known since the first navigators sought refuge in its quiet -waters, and its maritime value can never cease.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span></p> - -<p>I said “Good-bye” with much regret to the many friends -made during my short stay in this little town, where even -the Railway Reserve is a perfect garden of Arum lilies. -These peerless flowers seem to grow wild, and their stately -heads are to be seen everywhere. The scent of the boronia is -wafted on the breeze from afar; you hear the merry laughter -of boating-parties and of children who come along with their -hands full of gorgeous wild flowers. One of the townsfolk -brought me a lovely collection of orchids, of which there are -many varieties to be found hereabout; another friend brought -me a collection of Western Australia curiosities, shells, corals, -&c.; indeed I was overwhelmed with kindness by the warm-hearted -people, and could not but be sorry to leave a place where -I had been received with so much kindness.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp75" id="illus07" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus07.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">A Chopping Contest.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</h2> - -<p>Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely -Wildflowers.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Leaving Albany under more auspicious circumstances this -time than when I had left it by road, I took my seat in the -train, my destination being Denmark Mills, where I went to -see a great timber station and Jarrah Forest. On arrival at -Torbay Junction, 9 miles from Albany, I left the mail train and -took the timber train, as the company, who own the Denmark -Timber Mills, have a private line running to that place; once -seated I was soon carried into the timber country. We -passed through country covered with boronia and other sweet -flowers, and with Sheoak, Karri, and Jarrah trees. We -crossed the Hay river and came to Denmark Mill and township. -We were now in the thick of the Karri country, covered with -immense trees. The site of the township, covering 150 acres, -has, of course, been cleared, and there are many comfortable -wooden and slab cottages with nice gardens attached, giving a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span> -plentiful supply of fruit and vegetables; as well as a good store, -where everything appertaining to housekeeping can be obtained. -No liquor is allowed to be sold at the mill on account of the -dangerous nature of the occupation, consequently this is a model -township. There are several coffee-houses, and, in spite of -their enforced sobriety, the men seem to be very jolly and -happy. An enormous stack of timber was ready to be -shipped to Colombo, and the men were at work cutting more, -as the enormous demand for Western Australian wood -keeps the workmen busy night and day, working in relays. -The line train wound round the hills in picturesque fashion, until -we came to a valley which looked more picturesque still, -but rather dangerous to cross in a timber-train. Here the -flying fox or aerial tram is used to bridge the steep part and to -carry small timber. I was glad I did not venture down -into the valley, for I was afterwards told that it was not an infrequent -occurrence for the timber-trucks, and occasionally the -engine also, to leave the line, and as the trucks are of the -roughest description, consisting merely of four wheels and a -platform, and are loaded with immense logs, the passenger can -only travel on the engine, or on the “dummy,” which is a -special truck placed immediately behind the engine to keep it -from being damaged in case some huge log, weighing perhaps -20 tons, should slide forward in the course of a descent. It is -difficult to give an idea of the size of the gigantic Karri-trees -here. One which I saw was quite hollow, and a bullock team -drove right through it with perfect ease. In returning to the -town I saw another large quantity of battens or pickets waiting -to be shipped for London to fence two large cemeteries. -Enormous fires are always burning in the town to consume the -great heaps of waste from the mills. A pile, about 120 feet -high, was waiting to be burned, and it did seem a pity -that good wood should be reduced to ashes merely to get -it out of the way. A scheme for shipping the refuse of the -mills to America for conversion into paper has lately been -mooted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus08" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus08.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">THE HOMESTEAD, KENDINUP STATION</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus09" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus09.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hauling Logs at the Mills</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p> - -<p>The Karri-trees, grow to a height of 300 feet, with a circumference -of from 20 to 30 feet. From one Karri-tree alone -100 tons of timber have been cut. Karri is also called -<i>Eucalyptus collossea</i> or <i>diversicolor</i>, the latter name denoting -the difference between its leaves and those of other eucalypti. -The timber is impervious to damp. I was shown a block cut -from a log that had been buried forty-six years in moist earth, -and it was perfectly sound. For mining, harbour works, railways -and street-paving the wood is unequalled, and is now -greatly used in different parts of London, notably in paving -Charing Cross, where traffic goes on at the rate of 402 omnibuses -every hour; and in Paris the Rue Lafayette and Rue -Château d’Eau are also paved with our famous Australian -woods. This particular wood is preferred for street-paving -because it is safer for horse traffic than other kinds; observations -taken by Colonel Hayward, late City Engineer of London, -have shown that horses might be expected to travel over 446 -miles of Karri road without accident. On Westminster Bridge, -London (south side), the Jarrah paving has lasted for seven -years. This wood is also being used all over the world for -jetty piles; some enormous ones, 90 feet in length, were waiting -at the train-shed to go to Albany, where thirty vessels are -under charter to take the timber away to South Africa, South<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span> -America, India, &c. There is another very large karri district -which I mean to visit; I must not therefore exhaust all -I have to say about karri timber here, but pass on, leaving -behind Denmark Mill with its 20,000 acres of forest, where the -manager told me over two million loads of timber were waiting -to be cut down. Mr. Millar also owns very large jarrah -forests, the Wagerup of 35,000 acres, and the Mornington, -55,000 acres, and employs upon them a very large staff of -workmen.</p> - -<p>Returning next day to Torbay Junction, I caught the -mail-train and continued my travels, passing thousands of -acres of land waiting for selectors. Stopping at Mount -Barker, 28 miles from Torbay, I visited the homestead of -Mr. Somnes, the land around which was first cultivated -over 40 years ago by Mr. Somnes, senior, now 90 years of -age, and many of the fruit-trees, though planted so long -ago, are still bearing good crops of fruit. Over 55 acres of -fruit-trees of different kinds, bearing lovely fruit, testify to the -excellence of the soil. Two thousand apple-trees seem to be -specially prolific. In another part of the Mount Barker district, -Mr. Miller’s estate, comprising more than 5000 acres, has a -fine orchard of over 6000 fruit-trees of all descriptions. Two -other orchards, not quite so large but with much exquisite fruit, -are not far off, and the old homestead of St. Werbergs, where -the late Colonel Warburton resided, is a place of much interest. -In addition to fruit, the necessary potato and onion are being -cultivated, and in some cases yield very largely per acre. It -was my intention to stay at Katanning, as I wished to see -the much-talked-of orchard and vineyard of the Hon. F. H. -Piesse.</p> - -<p>It being night when I arrived, I could not see what the place -was like, but in the morning light I found it a most charming -little village. A great deal of land has recently been taken up -by selectors; during last year over 1500 applications were made -for homesteads and farms on conditional purchase, and many -more for pastoral leases and town and suburban lots. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -harvest returns here are very satisfactory, 15 bushels of wheat -to the acre being the average. Many farmers are coming over -from the other colonies to select land for farms, as well as -people from England and other countries. The Katanning -area contains 100,000 acres, so there is plenty of room for -many farms and orchards. Assisted passages are granted -from England to intending farmers and agriculturists and their -families, also to single women and widows. They can come to -this colony by only paying £8 5<i>s.</i> towards their passages. -These people must, however, be approved by the Agent-General, -Hon. Henry Bruce Lefroy, in London (15 Victoria Street, Westminster, -S.W.), from whose clerks intending passengers can -get any necessary information by writing to ask for it. On -arrival in Western Australia the new-comer will be afforded -every assistance by the Government land-agents who are -stationed in the principal towns.</p> - -<p>The orchards and vineyards of Mr. Piesse are really wonderful. -There are 65 acres of fruit-trees, bearing all kinds of -fruit of exquisite flavour, some of the pears weighing over 2 lb. -each, and the peaches, apricots, and apples of equal size and -beauty. The apples grown here are famed for their size, -sweetness, and flavour.</p> - -<p>There were acres and acres of vines loaded with large and -luscious grapes, the purple ones, with their lovely bloom, -offering a picture to the eye as well as refreshment to the -palate. The cost of clearing land in this district is only from -35s. to £3 per acre, so that any one with small capital could -soon have an orchard or farm of their own. The day is evidently -not far distant when Western Australia will not only -produce sufficient for all her own requirements, but, being -nearer the European markets by several days’ journey than the -other colonies, will be able to supply the markets of the -outside world with her fruits, especially grapes, the soil in -some parts being particularly suitable for vine culture. Her -goldfields may in time be exhausted, her forests may be converted -into timber, but the soil will always remain and vines<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -will always grow as long as the sun shines to mature the -grapes for wine to make glad the heart of man. Almond-trees -also grow wonderfully well, and tons of almonds are sent every -year from Katanning to different parts of the colonies.</p> - -<p>One very great feature connected with fruit farming in -Western Australia is that there are no fruit pests in the colony, -no phylloxera, no codlin moth, and no nasty little fruit-fly to -spoil the growth of things. Every care is taken that nothing of -the kind shall be brought here from other places, all fruit being -rigorously examined by experts before being passed by the -Customs.</p> - -<p>Seated behind a fast pair of Australian brumbys—(these -horses, called by the natives Warrigals, are very hardy -animals, and are well known to go longer distances without -nourishment of any sort than any others of their kind; when -proper food is unobtainable, they can subsist on the driest of -spinifex grass, or scrub, and what would kill other horses does -not seem materially to injure them)—I had a lovely drive over -Mr. Piesse’s properties. One splendid field of wheat, 300 acres -in extent, was a great sight. As far as the eye could reach this -field, with its magnificent crop, waved before the breeze. We -had passed the orchard with its acres of fruit-trees bending -beneath the weight of fruit. Then we came to the vines -with their rich and luscious grapes, then—a complete and -charming change of scene—to the cornfield. On the far side -of the field two waggons, each drawn by nine horses and -laden with a tremendous load of produce of the glorious earth, -were wending their way to the mill, which was seen in the -distance on the other side. A forest of trees, white gum, York -gum, and raspberry wood, sent a subtle perfume through the -air. Opening a large white double gate (one of many), we -drove right through the pretty cornfield, and one could imagine -the feelings of Bobby Burns when he wrote his exquisite poem, -“When the corn is waving, Annie dear.” Returning on the -other side of the field, a pretty view is seen of the village of -Katanning bathed in the golden sunlight.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span></p> - -<p>We passed the model farm of Mr. Stanbury and came to Mr. -Piesse’s splendid and most interesting mill: all the very newest -machinery for turning the ripe corn into flour is here. I -thought of our ancestors crushing wheat between stones, and -watched the beautiful white stuff coming down the huge -cylinders, automatically filling the corn sacks and coming to a -dead stop when full, with no assistance from the human hand, -while the man who had placed the sack on the cylinder stood by -sewing up with twine the last one filled. The click came to -notify that a bag was full; it was taken off, and another put on -to go through the same process. Tons of refuse from the -wheat were being thrown out, and on my asking what was done -with it, Mr. Piesse said that it was given to the pigs. This -splendid mill was built in 1891, but, in consequence of the rush -to goldfields which broke out in 1893, lay idle for nearly two -years, all the produce being -wanted for chaff, which -could not be cut quick -enough for the demand.</p> - -<p>A great deal of land-clearing -is going on in the different -selections, and it is -interesting to see the forest -devil or tree-puller at work. -This operates by means of -a chain placed round the tree and a lever worked by a man; in -about 15 minutes a great tree will come up root and branch, and -fall never to rise again.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus10" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus10.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills</p> -</div> - -<p>Resuming my journey next morning, I once more sped on -by train through the flower-scented country, passing Wagin, -Narrogin, famous for oranges; Pingelly, and Beverley (all rich -agricultural country). Here we partook of a very good repast, -this being the place where many Perth passengers break the -journey when going to Albany, or <i>vice versâ</i>; then, after a -further run of 20 miles, we stopped at the pretty little town of -York, on the banks of the Avon river. It nestles in a valley<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span> -almost surrounded by green hills, and as I walked across the -bridge, built of jarrah-wood, that spans the pretty river, I thought -I had never seen a more pastoral or a prettier place. The -town is in two parts, one each side of the Avon, which is -crossed by three bridges. The pale yellow fields of corn, the -pretty houses on the hillsides, the beautiful cattle grazing, and -the fruit growing in profusion in the various gardens and -orchards, make a charming picture. Quantities of sandal-wood -grow close to the town, and constitute a valuable industry; -the jam-wood also thrives well, and the scent of it makes one -imagine oneself in the vicinity of a raspberry-jam factory. The -headquarters of Parker’s Eucalyptus Distillery are here. The -distillery is at Dangin, about 40 miles off, where the beautiful -fruits that grow at York are preserved by the same firm, and -are quite tempting to look at and exquisite to taste. Farming -is very advanced in York. I was shown some wheat from a -farm, a portion of a crop that yielded 32 bushels per acre. The -farmers employ the very latest improvements in machinery, and -say that, though expensive at first, they find these cheaper in -the end, the expense of working the land being greatly reduced -by using the newest strippers, &c. It speaks well for the productive -capacity of the district that 24,000 bushels of splendid -wheat were waiting, at the Empire Milling Company’s storehouse, -to be turned into flour.</p> - -<p>Driving from York to Greenhills, through the Avon valley, -I passed Mr. Jesse Scott’s magnificent farm. Imagine a cornfield, -or, I should say, a succession of cornfields, of 450 -acres, on some parts of which the oats had attained the height -of 7 feet. These portions of the fields would yield 60 bushels -to the acre, and the whole 450 acres would average 35 bushels -per acre. It was, indeed, a magnificent sight. On other parts -of Mr. Scott’s property rye, buffalo, and prairie grass were -making great progress, while 12 acres were planted with vines.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus11" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus11.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">YORK</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span></p> - -<p>The tanning industry is well represented. I saw splendid -samples of plain and fancy leather when visiting Mr. Hay’s -factory; one enormous side weighed 39 pounds, kangaroo<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -skins are also tanned and make a beautiful shiny leather. -Kangaroo meat is eaten here, although beef and mutton are -plentiful. Many people seem to prefer “Roo” steak. I -confess I was rather surprised at breakfast to hear the waiter, -in reading the menu, mention the latter dish. I did not test -it, but at dinner tried kangaroo-tail soup, and found it really -excellent. The much-esteemed Roman Catholic priest, Father -Gibney, brother of Bishop Gibney, lives in York, and also has a -pretty little place (which is his hobby) called Springfield, about -three miles out. The Rev. Father has hundreds of fruit-trees of -different kinds, and quite an orangery. I brought away several -branches with eight or nine oranges on each as mementoes of -my very pleasant visit. There are some good buildings, a fine -Post Office, Mechanics’ Institute, Court-house, and some handsome -churches, as well as many good shops. York is one of -the oldest Western Australian towns, and enjoys the distinction -of being the place where the first official execution took place -in 1840. The wife of a settler, Mrs. Cook, and her infant, were -murdered by aborigines during the absence of her husband. -The murderers escaped into the Bush, and were only brought -to justice through a tribal quarrel which resulted in some natives -betraying them. They were conveyed to the scene of their -crime and hanged in chains, in the presence of a large gathering -of natives. Up to this time there was an impression amongst -the natives that an absence in the bush, long or short, absolved -them from punishment. This execution dispelled any idea of -that kind which they may have entertained, and taught them a -wholesome lesson.</p> - -<p>A very well-known person in early times was called the Duke -of York. He used to go between Perth and York in a little cart -carrying goods, not least of which was a keg of rum, the virtues -of which would have been even more warmly appreciated if the -old fellow had left it in its natural state, and not mixed so -much <i>aqua pura</i> with it. His descendants have risen in the -world, and in place of the keg of rum of their ancestor have -now bonded stores of large extent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p> - -<p>On leaving York <i>en route</i> for Perth the train journey was -rendered delightful by the beautiful carpet of wild and many-coloured -flowers on each side of the line. As the train sped -past the idea struck me that these flowers—lovely immortelles, -white, pink, and yellow, growing in countless millions—could -be turned to good account. Conversing with a Westralian -(white) native in the train, I find such a thing had never been -thought of, and what could be made a source of wealth by -some energetic people seems here hardly to be noticed. -Thousands of crosses, wreaths, anchors, screens, fans, and -other decorations could be made of these flowers, and would, I -am sure, command a ready sale on the Continent, especially in -France, where there is such a love of flowers for ceremonial -purposes. At present, like the boronia, which usually seems -to waste its sweetness on the desert air, they appear to be -not much admired, except by people travelling through the -country, who cannot fail to be impressed, like myself, by their -beauty. For perfumery purposes, the little coffee-coloured -boronia must have a great future before it, as well as the lovely -immortelles. My friend in the train said, “I don’t think they -are much good.” He put me in mind of the soldier, a good -many years ago, who, on the defeat of Parses the Persian, -found a bag of shining leather filled with pearls. Not knowing -their value, he threw them away, but kept the leather bag, -saying, “What was of no use could be of no value.”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus12" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus12.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Moirs’ Buildings</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</h2> - -<p>Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation -Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I -remember it on my last arrival, after my memorable journey -across the sand plains, it was a -very sleepy little town. Now -it is a handsome and prosperous -city, with noble buildings on all -sides, electric light, tramcars, -beautiful parks around it, and -yachts dancing on the broad -waters of the Swan river. Perth -is beautifully situated, and one -cannot fail to be charmed with -its picturesque and lovely surroundings.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp64" id="illus13" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus13.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Swan River, Perth</p> -</div> - -<p>Perth on a Spring day presents -a charming and animated picture. Boats and steamers ply across -Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other shore, while<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span> -black swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much -admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies -and trees, the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above -everything its smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild -flowers of every colour, all help to give charm to the scene. -St. George’s Terrace, the principal fashionable street, is nearly -two miles in length and planted with shady trees. The Council -have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the idea, I -suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden -fruit growing along the street will be something novel, but -not, perhaps, financially profitable, since in the hot summer -time it will offer rather a temptation to small boys who may -have a leaning towards lemon squash. Russell Square will, in -course of time, be as fine a public ground as any in Western -Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred -there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor -of Perth, assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first -trees: the rest were set by the school children, who had been -invited to attend. Many beautiful Westralian, tropical, and -sub-tropical trees will in future throw their grateful shade over -this fine square.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus14" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus14.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">HAY STREET, PERTH</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span></p> - -<p>Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in -Perth: Moirs’ Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New -South Wales, De Baun’s Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the -new Public Works Offices would do credit to any city in the -world. The Town Hall, which, although an imposing-looking -building, is old, will shortly be removed, the Government -having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is -one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A -new Town Hall will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of -the city. The Post Office is a fine building in the French -Renaissance style. Then there are the Mines Department -Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall for entertainments, -and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where -in the hot weather people take their amusements in the open air -while smoking and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span> -fine theatre in Hay Street, and another will shortly be erected -in Barrack Street; across the bridge we come to the Victoria -Public Library, a splendid stone building recently built, with -an excellent library of -28,000 books and -pamphlets. The -Museum adjoins it, -and contains valuable -specimens of all the -minerals of the -colony, as well as biological -and botanical -samples. The Railway -Station and Offices -form a fine block of buildings, and an overhead railway is shortly -to be started. There are some very large churches, Trinity Church, -St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church, in connection with -which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of buildings -adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, -an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on -Sundays a very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and -Convent are near it. Not far off is the Hospital, which is a -credit to Perth, not only on account of the arrangements, -which are excellent, but on account of the kindness, skilfulness, -and attention received by the patients. It is most highly -spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The -Royal Mint is a new and handsome building, recently opened -and Western Australia can now coin its own gold into -sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was formerly -done.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus15" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus15.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Perth Railway Station</p> -</div> - -<p>Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine -yachts and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one -of the oldest institutions, and has not only a splendid new -boathouse, whose accommodation and appointments excel those -of any other on this side of the continent, but also the newest -racing-skiffs procurable and handsome sailing-boats. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> -Club also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which the -members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess -has earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” -The Royal Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by -the riverside, and the many white-winged yachts that form the -flotilla are a pretty sight when sailing on the broad bosom of -the Swan.</p> - -<p>Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers -and colonnade giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the -grounds, though small, are very beautiful; they slope gently -down to the river by a series of terraces, and contain many -rare plants and shrubs.</p> - -<p>The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well -laid out, and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football -clubs indulge in their favourite sport, under the sunny skies -and genial air that render open-air existence so delightful in -Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the river faces the ground. -This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club, whose club-boathouse -is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green, -where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first -youth take their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be -found there on a fine afternoon, for the club members are very -gallant and always have nice afternoon tea and its accessories -for their lady visitors. The Cricket Association possess a very -fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the other end of the -town, near the Causeway.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus16" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus16.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Melville Water</p> -</div> - -<p>It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such -remarkable strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been -appreciated. A few years ago it was nothing but wild bush, -and though, of course, the view was just as good as it is now, -few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills to the top of the -Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and a -transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a -fence, and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty -summer-houses have been built; it is five miles in circumference, -and on the west side are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -The observatory, near the entrance gate, forms an imposing -landmark. Standing at this point a magnificent panorama is -spread before you. The city of Perth lies at your feet, while -far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds its way to -Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in -the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth -beneath. Going along the broad drive you come to the -highest pavilion on the summit of the Mount. Perth Water, -with the boat-sheds and their many boats and yachts, and -little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a jewel -below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm -Old Men’s Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road -continues on, and we soon begin to go down the incline, -where another still finer view looms in the distance. Crawley -Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at the -foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across -the river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that -one cannot bear to go on, but must pull up the horse and -stop for a few minutes, that the mind may drink in the -sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the other colonies, -and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span> -a spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild -bush is ablaze with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. -I felt I must stay for a while and gather some of the -beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which are far more varied -than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards that -by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, -hope for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native -profusion, many species have been transplanted from other -parts of the colony. Young eucalyptus and tica folia, trees -which are indigenous to the Albany district, and bear a handsome -scarlet flower, have been planted on both sides of the -road, and will in time form an avenue.</p> - -<p>Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, -with its brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its -exquisite velvety softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, -with their lemon-centred foliage; the beautiful snowflake -flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow hibbertia; the -pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or native tulip, -fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous to -particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall -never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery -dales, country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching -far and wide. Terraces have been formed, and paths wind -their way down the hill to the lower road. Here and there are -rustic seats, where visitors can rest and enjoy the splendid -view, and there are, of course, tea-houses, where you can enjoy -the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other refreshments. -Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants add -to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a -really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen -on all sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the -Narrows to the famous and beautiful Melville Park. In the -background, the Darling Ranges loom grandly; in fact, the -view is a magnificent panorama that could never be justly -described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the -Park Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span> -improvements made to this lovely spot in so short a space of -time. Perth has now settled down and become quite a quiet -city again, whereas a few years ago, when the gold fever was -at its height, the state of the town was very different. Then -the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was of -nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal -topic, and one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a -nugget or some gold dust, or who had not specimens in hand—received -from persons interested, who expected to make fortunes, -and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in quartz, or of some -other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they were -called.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus17" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus17.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">PERTH WATER</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span></p> - -<p>Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every -stranger who came to the country had to conform to the country’s -laws. The term “sandgroper” means white native; another -term used here is “straight hair,” given in the early days -by the free inhabitants to the convicts, on account of always -having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago any -one walking in the streets of Perth after 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> took his -chance of being arrested for the night. The constables on -their beats invariably threw out the challenge, “Bond -or free?” and unless the person so challenged could -answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z., he -was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known -citizen was challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! -Bond or free?” “Free,” answered the pedestrian. “Your -name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good enough,” said -the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of that -name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal -of explanation the minion of the law rather reluctantly let -the citizen proceed on his way. A few yards further along -he challenged another man, who gave the name of “Snowball.” -This name was too much for the new policeman, -who remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow -go, for who ever heard of such names before? Explanations, -though freely offered, would not be accepted by the officer, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span> -triumphantly marched a well-known and reputable citizen to -the police-station under the belief that he was some desperate -criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the -prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to -go home. All this is now changed in Western Australia, the -only convicts who are now alive being a few old people whose -terms have expired and who are now inmates of charitable -homes.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</h2> - -<p>Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady -Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park -Races.</p> - -</div> - -<p>It was a very pretty drive from Perth to the Darling Range -Quarries, where great quantities of stone for road-making and -other purposes were being turned out. The quarry is situated -on the western slopes of the range, and commands a magnificent -view of the whole country to the sea-board. The -proprietor of the now prosperous quarries, Mr. Statham, gave -us a brief history of his enterprise, which began nearly five -years ago. For the first three years, March 26 was for him an -unlucky day. First he was burned out and lost between £300 -and £400. In the following year the same thing occurred, -and he was a loser by £1200. The third time, when March 26 -came round, he felt disposed to stop the machinery, but the -day did not pass without accident, for the engineer was blown -up, and had to be taken to the hospital, but recovered in about -a month. Since the third accident Mr. Statham has felt proof -against disaster on March 26.</p> - -<p>Stretching away from here in the direction of Bunbury are -over 80,000 acres of well-matured land waiting for clearance -and then cultivation; at present there is no stock to feed on it, -no creatures being seen but a few wild horses.</p> - -<p>The homestead and vine plantations of Kalayamba, belonging -to Mr. Wiedenbach, are prettily situated on the wooded banks -of the Canning river, and the grapes some of the finest that I have -ever seen. Five years ago Mr. Wiedenbach obtained cuttings<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> -at a cost of 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each, and from these he grafted six vines, -out of that number four grew, and at the present time the -vines from the four cuttings number 500 or 600. The vinery -contains 4000 vines. There are 3100 citron-trees, and over -5000 other fruit-trees, many of them having fruit of phenomenal -size and most exquisite flavour. The oranges, especially -the mandarins, are really splendid. Last year 300 orange-trees -yielded over 3000 dozen oranges. The lemon-trees are -almost as good. The climate of Western Australia is specially -suited to the growth of the orange. The most delicious -oranges I have ever tasted grow on the slopes of the Darling -Range, and must be eaten to be appreciated. The -apple- and quince-trees were positively bent to the ground -with their lovely burdens; while the almond-trees were a -beautiful sight.</p> - -<p>There is also a magnificent estate situated on the Canning -river at Cannington, called Riverside, and belonging to -Mr. W. Brookman, the well-known mining millionaire of -Perth and Kalgoorlie.</p> - -<p>This gentleman’s town house is full of fine furniture and -curiosities brought in part from Europe, among these being a -dinner service of 120 pieces, each of which bears a different -pattern of Venetian lace, the whole set representing every -pattern made in Venice since the earliest manufacture of lace. -In the drawing-room are exquisite chairs, the embroidery of -which is the work of a continental sisterhood; vases of Venetian -glass which cost 100 guineas each, Bohemian glass bowls in -amethyst, thickly encrusted with gold; priceless statuettes of -Carrara marble, and elegant Louis Seize cabinets containing -rare curios from all countries, are a few of the contents of -this rich room; while on the polished floor are handsome -Brussels squares, on which lie rare skins, one specimen of a -magnificent Polar bear, with glistening teeth, bright eyes, and -perfect head, lying almost life-like. A fine aviary adjoining -the house is full of the twittering of birds and chattering of -parrots.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus18" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus18.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MOUNT ELIZA AND SWAN RIVER</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span></p> - -<p>After the wealth and magnificence of the Gold King’s house, -it is not to be wondered at if other homes look plainly -furnished, and yet Lady Forrest’s, although an old-fashioned -house, is most pleasant to visit. The furniture and surroundings -are in exquisite taste. The afternoon I called, the artistic -drawing-room looking out into the garden of sweet flowers was -most restful to the eye. Lady Forrest is most kind and -genial, and very much liked by every one. She takes great -interest in her husband’s work, and takes many a worry from -him by seeing people herself who come to interview him. -“Sir John is nearly always busy,” said Lady Forrest pathetically, -“I can’t get him to talk to me sometimes.” There -are a great many works of art in the house, especially pictures, -some by Lady Forrest herself and some by well-known -artists; many portraits of Lady Forrest’s ancestors, and -also bits of lovely English scenery from her father, the late Mr. -Hammersly’s, old home in England, called Pyrton, of which -she is justly proud. Mr. Hammersly was an English sportsman, -and came to Australia many years ago. Lady Forrest is a -Western Australian born.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span></p> - -<p>There are many other nice old houses in Perth, notably Mrs. -O’Grady Lefroy’s, at the upper end of St. George’s Terrace, called -Cambay. The house stands back in spacious grounds, and belongs -to the family, which is of old standing in Perth. Mr. H. Maxwell -Lefroy in 1843 made an excursion into the Lake District to -the east of York, and his discoveries have been of great value -to the country. Twenty years after, in 1863, Mr. Lefroy made -a more extended exploration. Mr. H. Bruce. Lefroy, the -late genial Minister of Mines, is a Western Australian, -but was educated at Rugby, England. He was Minister of -Education in 1897, and has administered the Department of -Mines with great skill, and to the satisfaction of Parliament -and people.</p> - -<p>Next to Mrs. Lefroy’s house is that of the late Mr. Alexander -Forrest, in 1900 Mayor of Perth for the third time. Mr. Forrest -has also done good service in the early exploration of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span> -colony, and is now known as the Cattle King, because he took -up immense tracts of land in the various districts, utilised -them for cattle stations, and amassed a large fortune.</p> - -<p>There are two daily newspapers in Perth. The <i>West -Australian</i> is edited and owned by the Hon. J. Hackett, M.L.C. -Mr. Hackett is an Irishman who landed in Melbourne thirty-five -years ago. He was a barrister, but shook off the shackles of -the law, came to Western Australia, took up land, and eventually -became proprietor of the <i>Western Australian</i> newspaper.</p> - -<p>The other daily, the <i>Morning Herald</i>, belongs to a syndicate. -As there are several weekly papers, and a <i>Sunday Times</i>, Perth -is well supplied with newspaper lore.</p> - -<p>The weather being beautifully fine, I one day accepted an -invitation to the races, and behind a spanking pair of horses, -and in congenial company, whirled away to Canning Park. -Arriving at the course, after a pleasant drive, we found fully -3000 people on the picturesque racecourse. Nature had -donned her most inviting garb, the day was beautifully cool, -and the effect of the mantle of green with which the lovely -country was decked was heightened by the shades of the -surrounding hills. The vista from the grand stand was delightful, -and everybody was in good spirits and well pleased. The -terrible stiffness which, as a rule, characterises Perth society, -seemed to be thrown off for a time, and the leaders did not, as -they often do, glare at all newcomers as if to say, “How dare -you come here? This is our country; stay away.” Many -pleasant afternoon tea-parties were in evidence, the racing -was good, and the band played excellently. Some very handsome -dresses were worn. When we left to return to Perth I -felt quite charmed with the pretty course, and also with my -good luck, for I had won two dozen pairs of gloves and ten -golden sovereigns—quite a run of luck for me.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus19" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus19.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">ST. GEORGE’S TERRACE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</h2> - -<p>The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South -Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The new public library and museum in Beaufort Street is a -very handsome building, and well worth visiting. It contains -many interesting collections of birds, beasts, fishes, and other -specimens indigenous to Western Australia. The fossils found -in the coastal limestone and in the carboniferous formations -extending from the Irwin to the Gascoyne and thence to -Kimberly are truly wonderful.</p> - -<p>The upper part of a mastodon gives one an idea of the -tremendous size and strength the animal must have had. The -casts of the fish-eating reptiles and saurians are marvellous. -Any one going through the museum and noting the productions -of Western Australia, past and present—other than gold, -which many people seem to think is the only thing the colony -can produce—will be considerably surprised.</p> - -<p>The marsupials are, I think, of especial interest, and of these -there is a large and varied collection. These marsupials or -pouched animals, from the tiny crescent wallaby, no larger than -a very small rabbit, the pretty little kangaroo-rat, and the -funny spectacled wallaby, to the rufus or red kangaroo, and -the great old-man grey kangaroo, taller than a big man, and -possessed of enormous strength and vitality, are, according to -Mr. Woodward, the curator of the museum, characteristic only -of the Australian region, the only kind of animal at all like -them in the world being the American opossum. Some -opossums, however, have no pouch, but carry their young on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> -their backs. The kangaroos, as I think all Australians know, -always carry the little Joeys snug in their pouch. And during -my travels I have often seen them peeping out of their snug -home. Many different kinds of pretty opossums come next, ranging -from the pigmy flying opossum, little ring-tail opossum, and -the odd little rabbit bandicoot to the pussy-looking black, grey, -or white opossum, whose skin and fur make such warm and -comfortable rugs for cold places, but are not often wanted in -the mild climate of Western Australia. One tiny little mouse-coloured -kangaroo-rat, found only in the south of the colony, is -very pretty, and makes a dear little pet; these animals feed on -the nectar of flowers, and when tamed, on bread and honey; -they sleep all day curled up into a ball, but are very lively at -night. Sleepless persons desiring a companion may be glad -to note this. The <i>Myrmecobius fasciatus</i>, or banded ant-eater, -from Coolgardie, is a most remarkable-looking creature, as, -indeed, its Latin name indicates.</p> - -<p>The splendid collection of Western Australian birds is really -surprising; after seeing it one wonders how some people could -say that there are no birds in Australia. The typical black -swan, white swan, and pelican from the Swan River; the -handsome bittern from Herdsman’s Lake, near Perth; the -giant petrel from Fremantle; enormous emus from the Murchison, -are all to be seen here, the last named with some dear -little striped fluffy young ones, the size of goslings. I have -often seen these birds when travelling on the Murchison myself. -The ossifrag, a gigantic black-necked stork from Derby, in the -far north; the Australian egret, so often plundered for ladies’ -hats; magnificent sea-eagles; a most interesting nest of the -sparrow-hawk made of twigs and gum-leaves, and containing -four young ones, over whom the mother mounts guard; -cockatoos, parrots innumerable, with most lovely plumage; -and last, but not least, the graceful native companion from -Broome. These are only a few of the birds belonging to the -colony of Western Australia, but I have not space to mention -more of them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span></p> - -<p>The nests of the trap-door spider are very peculiar; they -look like a piece of ordinary clay, but when the door is opened -a perfectly hollowed-out room is seen within, where the spider -and his prey almost exemplify the old rhyme of childhood’s -days. Some of the moths are very handsome, notably the -diuran and the podacanthus, the first named being very large -and of a lovely heliotrope colour. From these insects to a -whale is a big jump, and the skeleton of the whale stranded -at the Vasse in 1897 and secured by Mr. E. C. B. Locke, M.L.A., -for the Museum, is one of the largest of its species, if not <i>the</i> -largest; it is nearly 80 feet in length, and when in the flesh it -must have measured 86 feet. The head alone weighs a ton or -more, and the whole skeleton is prodigious. Coming back -from viewing the whale, my attention was drawn to the first -two sovereigns struck off in the Perth Mint, which repose on a -velvet bed, and are, it appears, of much interest to the rising -generation, for three boys were looking at them with great -attention. The models of all the great and wonderful diamonds -ever found in the world, some very ancient Greek coins, and -famous French medals, work of noted French medallists -also a cast of the celebrated Moabite stone, the original of -which is in the British Museum, are near here; the last named -is of great interest, being inscribed in three languages—Egyptian -hieroglyphics, Semitic, and Greek; it was discovered -in 1799 in the little town of Rosetta, on the Nile. It was the -deciphering of this stone in the Greek language that gave the -clue to Egyptian hieroglyphics. There are also copies of many -of the great works of art in London and Paris, so that, although -separated by so many thousands of miles, Perth still keeps -touch with the old world.</p> - -<p>The relics from the wrecks of the <i>Batavia</i> in 1629, and of -the <i>Zeewyk</i>, wrecked in 1727 at the Abrolhos Islands (the story -of which I will tell later on), are the most interesting things to -be seen in the museum. They consist of silver and copper -coins, rosary beads, clay tobacco pipes, copper kettles and -stewpans, knives, spoons, scissors, fish-hooks and sinkers,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span> -tumblers and wine-glasses, some of most delicate glass, -enormous greenish-looking liquor bottles, and some round -ones, capable, I should think, of holding gallons, cannon-balls -and bullets, said to have been manufactured by the mutineers -on the islands, and two complete but rather gruesome skeletons -tell a silent and sorrowful tale of the past.</p> - -<p>The wonderful shells and corals from these islands made me -no longer wonder that the Dutchmen in 1629 named them -“Abros vos olhos,” or “Keep your eyes open”; they must -have named them not only for the dangers of the coast but -for the marvellous things to be seen there.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus20" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus20.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">CITY OF PERTH</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span></p> - -<p>The different kinds of shells, sponges, corals, fish, and birds -are simply amazing. I can only specify a few, amongst which -are the tremendous cup-sponge shell, fully three feet long, the -peculiar montipara or screw coral, and the enormous sponges, -the many wonderful kinds of fish, birds, &c., from these -strange islands so near our shore, as well as from Mandurah, -Rottnest, Garden Island, and Fremantle must be seen to be -appreciated, and I recommend every one visiting Western -Australia to go and see them for themselves. The collection -of aboriginal curiosities and relics is ample. The skull of a -notorious aboriginal murderer called Pigeon, who gave the -police much trouble in catching him, was shown to me. -This native was named Pigeon on account of his favourite way -of despatching his victims by wringing their necks. There are -some fine native shields, spears, knife dabbas, meeras or -throwing-sticks, kileys or boomerangs, &c., and some most -peculiar boat-shaped shells that are hollowed from young trees -and used for carrying water or food; a wooden helmet, exactly -like a sou’-wester, makes one think that one of the Dutch sailors -who came ashore in the early days must have dropped his hat -and some savage have copied the pattern in wood. The fish-spears -have about eighteen barbs both ways; the spearheads -are made of many kinds of different glass, and nowadays the -natives knock down the telegraph insulators and make them -into spearheads. In former times silex, of which knives and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> -chisels were made, was used, but the other material is easier -to get, and the black fellow is well known to be as much averse -to trouble as some of the white fellows. I possess three spear -heads from the -Kimberly district, -one of which -gave the death-blow -to a man -from whose chest -it was extracted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp93" id="illus21" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus21.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Aboriginal Camp</p> -</div> - -<p>The medicine-stick -or bunganarrie -used by the -natives as a cure -is very strangely -marked, the -markings no -doubt constituting -some imaginary spell. The dandie is used for tattooing, -and the gunda-stick, with a knob at the end, looks like our life-preserver. -The pindie pindie is a native ornament stick, frilled -to represent a feather, and sometimes made of pretty green and -cream colour. The effect is produced by scraping down the -green part of a young branch about two inches till it frills, -then scraping the inner pale part to frill over that. A space -comes next, and then another frill, until the ornament reaches -the length required. These objects the natives stick all over -their heads. They also make very handsome ornaments of -large mother-of-pearl shells by drilling a hole through the top, -and hang them by a string of hair about their bodies. The -women have an ornament made from pearl-shell called the -binjah binjah, which hangs down their back attached to a -currican or woman’s necklace. The long marrie is an ornament -of kangaroo teeth attached to a hair-string, to hang down -between the eyes. The booran is a belt made from human -hair, worn by the Kimberly natives. The native women have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> -most stringent ideas of mourning for their dead. A picture of -one mourning for her brother shows her hair all screwed up in -little knobs with wilgie clay and fat. Wilgie is a red-coloured -clay or earth used for various rites and ceremonies. The -tomahawk or pulboo has a handle of wood, the head being made -of a kind of flint or stone, fixed in with a resinous substance -called pulga or gum, made from the roots of the spinifex grass. -Native spearheads too are fastened on with this gum, which is -found in solid lumps, and dissolves with heat. String is made -by the natives from the skin of the opossum by means of an -instrument called the boolga, which consists of a long thin -round stick, crossed near the top by two shorter sticks, and has -somewhat the appearance of a boy’s kite. In making their -implements they generally employ a tool called a bedoo, which -resembles a spearhead. The ongath or fire-stick is used for -lighting fires, and keeps alight a long while, burning very -slowly. These sticks are carried about almost as we carry -matches. The letter-sticks of the natives, or paper-talk as they -now call them, are beautifully marked and of different -sizes, the designs on those from the Gascoyne district being -quite remarkable. Around the stick will be marked, in a kind -of blue ink, all sorts of odd signs and figures, such as a crab, a -gun, a leg, an arm, a lover’s knot, a hand and arm outstretched -almost like a masonic emblem, and many other peculiar signs -best known to themselves. The dewark, or throwing-stick, -is also an interesting object, and so are the many aboriginal -carvings and the sharp stones used in their sacred or tribal -rites. The stones used for grinding their food consist of a large -flat stone and a round smooth heavy one. Nalgo is the name -of the principal seed thus ground, but they have many different -kinds of food, which I will describe later. A tree called the -boobah-tree grows at Derby, and produces a nut as large as a -goose egg.</p> - -<p>The natives about Perth and Fremantle were in early days -very numerous and troublesome. Native risings were frequent, -and many hundreds of aborigines were shot. The present site<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span> -of the Great Western Hotel was the scene of a large fight, -arising out of the murder of two boys, the sons of settlers, who -were minding cows, and were set upon by the blacks. The -boys ran away to the Swan river, and one jumped in and -swam across, only to be speared on the other side. The other -boy did not reach the bank, but received five spears in his -back and died at once. At this the settlers were soon up in -arms, and one bloodthirsty native called Yagin was outlawed. -He was eventually shot near Hutt Street, where the rising took -place, by Dr. Dodd, who afterwards took a large strip of his -skin from shoulder to foot, tanned it, and made it into a belt, -which he wore for years!</p> - -<p>That silk can be grown in Perth is testified by some lovely -blue and cream-coloured handkerchiefs made from silk grown -here, and presented to the museum by Sir John Forrest. -Next to this case is an old plan of Leschenhault Port, now called -Bunbury, in 1803. Also a little picture of the ship <i>Success</i> -and a man-of-war in Careering Bay, Swan River, in 1829.</p> - -<p>Perth does not yet boast of a large Botanic Garden, but as, -in the spring, the whole country around is one vast garden the -absence is not severely felt. There is a charming public -garden, small, but very prettily laid out, near Government -House, and opposite the Post Office.</p> - -<p>Sir John Forrest prophesied, ten years ago, that in the future -Western Australia would come to the fore, and the prophecy is -being amply fulfilled; no travellers now ever think of making -a tour in Australia without coming to the West. Mr. Frederick -Villiers, the famous war correspondent, says that when he came -to the colonies, seven years ago, he was nearly coming here, -and, now having been, he professes to be so much charmed -with Perth, and the view of the Swan River, as to feel -inclined to settle down and end his days there. These little -corners of the world have made him dissatisfied with his business, -and as I gazed upon the many spots of beauty on the river -before me, while the faint red blush of the sky deepened into -a crimson sunset and cast a glorious reflection on the water, I<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span> -felt myself agreeing with Mr. Villiers and disposed to stay in -my pretty Claremont home for ever, where the sun seldom shines -too fiercely and the winter is like a gentle friend.</p> - -<p>One spring day I drove in to Perth to see the flower -show, then being held in the Town Hall. The drive over the -bloom-covered slopes of the park, the sweet odours of the -pretty flowers of the Bush mingling with that of the golden -wattle, was most enjoyable. I can never ride or drive through -that park, and gaze on the beautiful scene below, without -feeling that God has indeed given us a lovely world to live -in. It was a holiday, and consequently many little parties -(frequently of two) were exploring the flower-scented knolls and -enjoying the breeze from the water. Perth was quite gay, -all the carriages of the <i>élite</i> seemed engaged in carrying -their fair owners to the flower-show. On entering the Town -Hall a perfect blaze of beauty in the shape of wild flowers met -the eye. The silver and golden wattle, laden with fragrant -perfume, drew me immediately to the spot where they were. -In the “Salyang Mia-Mia” (wattle-house) a most refreshing -cup of tea was to be procured. Sitting in this fragrant bower -and sipping tea brought to mind the lines:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">All the world is turning golden, turning golden,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Gold buttercups, gold moths upon the wing,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Gold is shining thro’ the eyelids that were holden,</div> - <div class="verse indent6">Till the spring.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>“Djanni Mia-Mia” (bark-tree house) was a triumph of -rusticity, and the collection of hibiscus, boronia, flannel-plants -and mauve everlastings were so lovely that I was obliged -to buy several bunches of the different kinds. The bamboo -stall was also very artistic, and the bamboos furnished -receptacles for water, by means of which the flowers were -kept fresh. “Yanget Mia-Mia” was the name of the bush-house, -which had a background of bulrushes and blossom, and -various bouquets of all sorts, sizes and scents were so -tempting that I bought more, and found myself becoming a -walking flower-garden. Wild flowers were here in every variety<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span> -and hue. Specimens of native flora had been gathered from -the hills and dales for miles around. The anygoxanthus -(kangaroo paw), a most wonderful flower, was to be seen in -many different hues: the blue and red leschenaultia, the -trailing white clematis, or virgin’s bower, hanging in charming -clusters, white and red hibiscus, and the more delicate -heliotrope variety of the same flower, the delicate grey smoke-plant, -with its dark green leaves, the snowflake flower, -which, when blooming on its native earth, looks like a snow -white carpet, one after another caught the eye. These flowers -have long stems, and make exquisite table decorations. The -thysanctus, or fringed lily, is a remarkable satiny-looking -flower, and has a habit of climbing. The delightful boronia has -many different varieties, the pale yellow being the prettiest, -and the pink and white coming next; the dark red or brown, -however, gives off a most delightful and refreshing perfume. -The native roses are very pretty, the small blue ones being the -first and last flowers to bloom during the season. The blossoms -of the eucalyptus are of a magnificent crimson, and the delicate -pink and white flowers of the crowea hang in loose clusters. -Having travelled through so much of the Western Australian -country, I recognised many of the beautiful gems that are to -be seen adorning the Bush in various parts I visited. The -kangaroo paw, before spoken of, has many varieties, ranging -from faint cream colour, through scarlet, crimson, yellow, -chrome, and green to sable, and in form is exactly like the -foot of our typical Australian animal. The little trigger -(candolea) plant, with its white flower suffused with shades -of pink and yellow, and the marianthus, a climbing flower, -are extremely beautiful.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus22" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus22.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">DRIVING IN PERTH PARK AT THE SUMMIT</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span></p> - -<p>The peculiar-looking ice-plant grows in the hot dry sand of -the coast. I admired greatly some soft-tinted native tulips -(pink), which were prettily veined and almost transparent. -The actinotis (or flannel flower) is very abundant and long -lasting, and therefore well fitted for decorations. Pilotus (or -cat’s paw) has a pink and white flower, and retains its colour<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span> -for a long time. A flower called the lactinostachys is most -phenomenal; the stem and leaves seem to be without sap, and -have a thick woolly covering; the flower looks so artificial -that one can hardly believe it to be real. It is found in the -northern part of the colony in hot dry localities. The clematis -is a sweet pure white flower, which literally covers the trees -and shrubs where it climbs. The banksia (or honeysuckle) is -a handsome flower, with a kind of crimson cone. The parrot-plant -looks like a many-coloured bird. The grevillia (or -native fuchsia) is here in many hues. Sturt’s desert-pea is -a very handsome, brilliant scarlet flower, with black centre. -The fringed verticordia, with its lemon-centred foliage, is -pretty, and so is the callistemon, which has bright scarlet -plumes. The petrophila flower has striking blossoms that -look like rich pink velvet, while the yellow flowers and -peculiarly formed leaves (resembling a stag’s horn) of the -synaphea were the most remarkable growths that I saw. -Everlastings in every colour imaginable were there. The -delicate but striking beauty of various orchids was shown to -great advantage; the calendia (or spider orchid), with its -peculiar spots, was particularly attractive: the douris (or dog-ear -orchid), and the prasophyllum, with its spikes, 18 inches -long, of dense white flowers, were interesting; so was the -lyperanthus orchid, whose flowers turn black when dried; -while the drakea (or hammer-head orchid) looked almost -like a little duckling. The glossodia, spotted white, seemed as -if it were varnished. Then there was a sensitive plant called -the pterostylis, which almost resembled a tiny box, with a -movable labellum, which is sensitive, and, when irritated by an -insect, closes the box and imprisons the insect. Droseracea -belongs to the fly-trap family, and has leaves and tentacles -covered with a sticky juicy kind of acid, which arrests the -inquisitive little insects, who come doubtless attracted by the -dew on the leaf. As soon as these tentacles are touched the -leaf closes in upon the unwary insect, which is soon absorbed -by the juice exuded by the plant. The flower of the byblis, by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span> -far the largest and most attractive of the species, is of a rich -salmon-pink colour. Probably the brightness of the flower -attracts the insect to the stem and leaves, which are covered -with the same juice as the droseracea, but in this instance the -insect is absorbed on the surface of the plant. There are -thirty-six species of insectivorous droseracea.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus23" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus23.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">GATHERING WILDFLOWERS</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<p>There are hundreds of other species of orchids and thousands -more of wild flowers. The late Baron von Mueller said, -“Australia is a great continent, and much of its vegetation is -yet unexplored.” The Baron added “that more than half of -the total vegetable species known in Australia were represented -in the West,” and mentioned over 9000 of them. -Dr. Morrison, our Government botanist, informed me that -there were more than 3000 species of wild flowers.</p> - -<p>As I was leaving the flower-show I noticed some very fine -Anthorreas. “The King Blackboy” is a Western Australian -grass-tree much admired. A handsome painting of the Nutsyia -fire-tree, or Christmas-bush, also demanded notice. This tree -bears very bright yellow or amber flowers about November and -December, and the blossoms being of such a brilliant colour, -and growing on trees that attain the height of from 20 to 30 -feet, are very conspicuous and visible at a great distance.</p> - -<p>Taking the little steamer one morning I crossed to South -Perth. The new Zoological Gardens are worth seeing, if -only for the superb view from them. A recent visitor said -that he had seen many gardens in various parts of the world, -but none in a more beautiful position than at Perth. The -gardens occupy about forty acres of ground, and are a favourite -resort on Sundays and holidays. Family parties are made up -to go to the “Zoo,” for many Western Australian children have -never seen wild animals elsewhere, except in picture-books. -The grounds are beautifully laid out; the aromatic flower-beds, -ornamental ponds and rockeries, gushing fountains, miniature -castles, turrets, &c., make it a charming place to spend an -afternoon and evening. At night the grounds are illuminated -with hundreds of different-coloured lamps, which send a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span> -rainbow radiance over the scene. Concerts are held every -Saturday evening during summer, and there is a really fine -quartet, called the Orpheus, whose harmonious blending of -sweet music in the lovely summer nights is well worth listening -to; the Headquarters band also plays. Many of the animals -awakened by the sounds of music (which is said to soothe the -savage breast) evince much curiosity, others slumber on, no -doubt soothed by the sweet strains. There are two splendid -lions in separate cages. The lioness is very bad-tempered, and -on being placed in the cage with the king of beasts, instead of -showing a taste for his society, clawed him unmercifully, he -standing the bad treatment in a most kingly manner. Her -highness was, therefore, placed in a cage by herself to recover -her good temper.</p> - -<p>The baby tiger seemed to be a great favourite, and it was -quite amusing to see the antics of the monkeys in their play-room -with the little ourang-outang, with whom they seemed -to fraternise amicably and to play with quite happily. A -ride on the donkey was much enjoyed by my little niece. I -wanted her to mount the dromedary, but she declined that -pleasure. Boys are pleased with the ponies, and the handsome -goat-carriages come in for a share of admiration. The sacred -Indian cow from Singapore, the newly arrived leopards, the -white kangaroo (a great favourite), and all the others, too -numerous to mention, were thoroughly inspected, and the -children from the goldfields seemed delighted to see animals -hitherto only known to them through the medium of books. -Hot water is provided free of charge, and picnics are frequent; -happy parties of little ones were sitting down in the cool -shade and making the place ring with their voices. A view -of the Canning river lies on one side and of the Swan river -on the other, the garden being situated on an arm of land -almost surrounded by water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus24" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus24.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">SOUTH PERTH FROM THE BANKS OF THE SWAN</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p> - -<p>South Perth was in early days intended for the site of the -city, but the business parts having occupied the other side of -the river, South Perth has been left to become a most charming<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span> -and aristocratic suburb, many handsome residences, pretty -villas and gardens adding to the natural beauty of the place. -An old mill is still standing on the extreme end of the Point, -and eventually a bridge will span the Swan river and connect -Mill Point with Perth at the foot of Mount Eliza, near the -park. Land is becoming very valuable here, and I have -bought a plot with a view to building a villa in this beautiful -place.</p> - -<p>I did not return by steamer, which only takes ten minutes to -cross the water, but preferred to drive round by land—a drive -of about four miles. We drove about three miles before coming -to the glorious Causeway, a stretch of water which is spanned -by an enormous and handsome bridge. From this point a -moonlight view of South Perth, Perth, and the Swan river -winding its way to Guildford, is seen, and forms a very fitting -end to a day’s pleasant excursion.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus25" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus25.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Fremantle Pier</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</h2> - -<p>Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The Chine—Cottesloe—The -Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s Head—Smelting -Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle.</p> - -</div> - -<p>One bright morning I started to drive from Perth to Fremantle, -a distance of twelve miles. Taking the lower road -around Mount Eliza, a beautiful prospect lay before me. -The Mount rises 200 feet above the road, which is only a -little way from the broad river; the sun shone on Melville -Water in the distance, while on the other side lay the -Canning river, with trees and hills beyond. The pretty -suburb of South Perth on its arm of land, with the old mill at -the extreme end; the many little boats and steamers going to -and fro, made a charming summer-day’s picture. Along the -road past Perth Park we saw the blue and silvery water all the -time, and then, when we came to Crawley, we entered a road -fenced on each side. Valuable land is placarded for sale, and -no doubt in course of time will become even more valuable. -Already streets have been laid out for a suburb, which, being -so beautifully situated, will be charming to live in. After a -pretty drive of six miles we reached the fashionable suburb of -Claremont, where there are some very elegant villas and -mansions. A mile farther on is Osborne, the most magnificent<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> -hotel and grounds in Western Australia. This fine building -stands in large gardens and grounds, and is surrounded by -splendid conservatories and terraces. There are wide balconies, -arbours, and seats, and, in the matter of beauty, the place almost -realises Claude Melnotte’s description of “a palace lifting to -eternal summer.” It seems almost incredible that three years -ago this exquisite spot was the abode only of the blackboy, -banksia, and other native trees, and a shelter for the dusky -son of the soil. Towering high above the hotel is a turret of -spacious dimensions, from which the growing port of Fremantle, -with many merchant vessels and steamships riding peacefully at -anchor, may be clearly seen in the distance. The adjacent -islands of Carnac, Garden, and Rottnest, with their rugged -coast-lines, lashed by the surging waves of the ocean, are but a -few miles distant. The clearness of the air gives a wonderful -range of vision from the tower. As you turn, you behold in -the distance the dark woodland of the Darling Ranges, whose -summits seem to touch the sky. In the zenith of summer -heat in Western Australia, Osborne is always delightfully -shaded and cool.</p> - -<p>An artesian well in the grounds, which struck water at a -depth of 150 feet, gives an abundant supply, capable of supplying -the whole of Perth. No less than 50,000 gallons of -water are used every day on the grounds of Osborne alone. -Steamers come to Osborne jetty during the week, and every -Sunday in the summer, bringing hundreds of people to enjoy -the scene. The steamer moors at a landing at the bottom -of the cliff, and hundred of steps have to be climbed before the -top is reached. The climb is made easy by a platform with -seats at the end of every flight of steps, of which there are -five, and one can rest on these to enjoy the pleasing prospect. -Pretty villas are built all around the hillsides; dear -little Freshwater Bay, with its numerous bathing-houses and -jetties, the pretty yachts and boats on its bosom looking like -white-winged birds, lies at your feet; and the wild note of -the magpies, not yet frightened away by civilisation as the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span> -aborigines have been, is heard from the trees in the distance. -Continuing our drive, we took the inner road up the hill. -Another pretty little bay and suburb called Peppermint Grove, -from the fact that at one time it was a grove of delicate -peppermint-trees, discloses itself. There are many beautiful -villas with gardens, a nice white, hard sandy beach, a fine jetty -for the many boats that come from Perth and Fremantle, and -the Yacht Club House. Keane’s Point, with a handsome -old bungalow on a fine site, hides a bend of the river. -The Chine, so called from its peculiar conformation, the -ridge appearing like the backbone of an enormous whale or -other gigantic sea monster, is another pretty spot. Any one -who has the fortitude to climb to the top of the Chine will be -rewarded by one of the most exquisite panoramic views of -ocean, river, flower, shrub, sea and sky ever seen. The -tints of the water from the reflection of the azure sky melting -into pale yellow, then into rich gold and crimson from the setting -sun, once seen will never be forgotten. Turning back, we -resumed our drive up Forrest Street and into the main Fremantle -Road. We were now in the seaside suburb of Cottesloe, -and away over the hill lay the beautiful Cottesloe Beach, -stretching along for miles. Cottesloe is one of the most flourishing -suburbs of Perth. A few years ago it was all one dense -bush; now it is full of human life, and houses are going up in -all directions as fast as the builders can erect them. Past the -quarries we went until a turn of the road brought us to a view -so magnificent that its effect can never fade from my memory. -In the distance the dark blue Indian Ocean rolled in all its -majestic splendour; North Fremantle was in sight, and so was -the mouth of the Swan river. We approached the bridge to -cross it, and saw an effect even more beautiful. From the -bridge on which we stopped a few minutes in order to gaze on -this gorgeous scene we saw many fine ships lying at anchor on -the broad ocean; up the river many small boats and steamers -were moored; in the distance were white cliffs and pretty -houses; the magnificent German steamer, the <i>Friedrich der<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span> -Grosse</i>, was just going out to sea—and altogether the scene was -truly a grand one. I hope I shall not be thought to rhapsodise -too much, but I can assure my readers that I am writing exactly -as I felt when first viewing the approach to Fremantle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus26" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus26.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></p> - -<p>When the new harbour is finished, Fremantle will be, as Sir -John Forrest puts it, the Brindisi of Australia. And now we -crossed the bridge and entered East Fremantle, leaving behind -us the broad river winding its way to the ocean between two -splendid breakwaters.</p> - -<p>On we drove down Cantonment Road into High Street, the -principal thoroughfare, at the top of which is the fine Town -Hall with its splendid clock. From that point the street runs -to Arthur’s Head, and is connected by a tunnel with the sea; -on the top of the limestone cliff is an old building called the Old -Cantonment, formerly used as a lock-up. Fremantle is built on -a low-lying neck of land between Arthur’s Head on the one side -and the limestone heights on the other, hemmed in on one -hand by the river and on the other by the sea. The city was -named after Captain Fremantle, who first hoisted the British -flag there, in 1829.</p> - -<p>There is a fine lighthouse on Arthur’s Head. It is a white -stone tower 71 feet high, with a fixed white light, visible for -16 miles. Fremantle still possesses some old and singular-looking -buildings. The old gaol and court-house, with -the harbourmaster’s quarters and the barracks, will, no -doubt, in course of time be replaced by more up-to-date -structures; there are already many very fine new buildings. -Fremantle has an excellent Grammar School, where -most of the boys from Perth and the country districts -receive their education. Mr. G. Bland Humble, the present -worthy and respected Town Clerk of Fremantle, was the first -master, having been brought from England in 1886 to teach the -young idea of Western Australia how to shoot.</p> - -<p>There are many good hotels, the Hotel Fremantle being the -best at the city end of the town, and the Hotel Australia at the -upper end. This latter is really a splendid hotel, standing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span> -in an excellent position, with a grand view of the river, harbour, -and islands beyond. The jetty is half a mile long, and some -large vessels are always lying there.</p> - -<p>Fremantle is rapidly increasing in size and population, and -social life is not so divided as in Perth; there seem to be more -geniality and not so much stiffness about the people. A -volunteer artillery corps, turf, bicycle, rowing, cricket, and football -clubs provide various forms of social activity. There is a -nice park, also a good recreation-ground, and several places of -entertainment, and the large hall in the Town Hall is very -handsome and superbly decorated. An inexhaustible supply of -water is obtained from three large wells connected by drives. -The water is pumped up by steam into reservoirs at the rate -of 45,000 gallons an hour.</p> - -<p>The smelting works about two miles from Fremantle, at -Owen’s Anchorage, have lately commenced working, and -are a great boon to the goldfields, which until recently were -very much handicapped by having to send their ore to the other -colonies to be smelted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus27" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus27.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">NORTH FREMANTLE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p> - -<p>The South African War is the general topic of the day, and -with what sorrow do we read of the sacrifice of so many noble -lives! Several contingents of our brave Australians have left -the different parts of the colonies to assist their British brothers -with a little of the courage we have in the Sunny South. -The second contingent has just left these shores, and Fremantle -has had the honour of giving them the send-off. Over -30,000 people assembled to bid them farewell, and a scene -of such unbounded enthusiasm ensued as has never before -been witnessed in the colony. The magnificent steamer <i>Surrey</i> -brought the New South Wales and South Australian contingents, -and these soldiers came in for their share of admiration -no less than the Western Australians. The enthusiasm shown -for the Western Australian contingent from the time they -left the camp at Karrakatta until they waved their last good-bye -from the steamer’s side will never be forgotten. The street -decorations, although hurriedly got up, were handsome and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span> -patriotic. At the Oval, where the reception to the troops was -held, a huge marquee occupied considerable space, and rows -of tables laden with every delicacy were provided for the -troops and for the many distinguished visitors. Over 200 of the -leading society ladies of Fremantle acted as waitresses, proud -to attend on brave men soon to embark for the perils of war. -Although the men were going away to face battle, all seemed -jubilant, proud, and confident. The three contingents were all -like brothers. The cries of the multitude were: “Cheers for -the Cornstalks of New South Wales,” another for the “Gum-suckers -of Victoria,” one for the “Crow-eaters of South -Australia,” and “A great big one for Westralians; do your -best, boys!”<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> At the wharf, prior to the <i>Surrey</i> leaving next -day, somebody handed up a bottle of whisky, intending it for a -Westralian trooper. A Cornstalk, however, became possessed -of it. “That’s not for you, it’s for one of the Western Australians,” -shouted the donor. “It doesn’t matter, we’re all -alike, we’ll soon be Federated Australia,” laughed the Cornstalk, -and opening the bottle took a drop, then handed it -round to the rest, who all participated in it with real federal -spirit. When the time came for the troopship to leave, some -affecting scenes took place between mothers, sisters, wives and -soldiers, but all bore up as bravely as possible. Were they -not going for the glory of Old England and the honour of their -beloved Queen?</p> - -<p>A Bushmen’s contingent has since left all the colonies, comprising -men who are accustomed to rough-riding and thoroughly -used to rough life in most trying conditions. From what I -know of many of the Bushmen I have met in my travels, I -should say that they will afford the British troops valuable aid -in reconnoitring the wily Boer.</p> - -<p>As we all know, the Australians have since bravely distinguished -themselves, and our late dearly beloved Queen -testified her approval of their actions in many ways. Her late<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span> -Majesty’s gracious act of proposing that the Duke and Duchess -of York should go so far in order to open the Federal Parliament -of Australia endeared her still more, were that possible, to -the hearts of her colonial subjects. As one of them who saw -the late lamented Prince Edward and Prince George when -they went out to Australia years ago in the <i>Bacchante</i>, “I can -testify to the unswerving loyalty and affection of Australians -for our beloved Queen and all her family.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus28" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus28.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span></p> - -<p>And what a brilliant record our Western Australians, especially -those of the first contingent, who have returned to -Perth, have taken back with them! Truly they deserve the -laurel-wreath of honour, while those who fell on the field of -battle, giving up their lives for their beloved Queen and -country, will live for all time in our hearts. I cannot do better, -I am sure, than give Major McWilliams’ description (at the -banquet given in Perth in honour of their return) of the way in -which some Australians bravely distinguished themselves.</p> - -<p>“Before closing, he desired to tell them a story about their -entry into Pretoria. He thought it was an incident that all who -participated in would remember to the last days of their lives. -The hills around Pretoria were most strongly held by the -enemy. Their mounted infantry, which included the 1st -Western Australians, were ordered to take a hill. They climbed -up the kopje, the horses being led behind them, and fought -until relieved by the Gordon Highlanders. Their little band -had to do the work of infantry, and the handful of men held the -top of that hill, and kept the enemy at bay, until the Imperial -troops appeared on the scene. The latter said: ‘This is our -job now; you are mounted, and you will be required somewhere -else.’ The colonials informally handed over the work to -the Highlanders, and an order came from Colonel De Lisle to -move back to the hills to outflank the enemy, if possible. They -did so under a heavy fire, but the enemy, on seeing them, must -have exaggerated their numbers, for they made off into Pretoria -as fast as they could. The Western Australians followed, and -on that night got within a thousand yards of Pretoria. At<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span> -that time Lord Roberts’ main column was six miles in their -rear. Their infantry decided to hold the position close to -Pretoria until morning. During that night one of their number, -a son of an esteemed resident of Perth—he referred to Captain -Parker—was sent with a few men into Pretoria to blow up the -line, and he certainly had the honour of being the first armed -man to enter Pretoria. That, he thought, was a great thing to -claim for a Western Australian. He might also state a fact not -generally known, that the flag of truce on the night before was -taken in by a New South Wales officer, an Australian born. -This little company numbered less than one hundred men.”</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES.</p> - -<p>The <i>Gazette</i> of October 4 states that the King has been graciously pleased -to signify his intention to confer the decoration of the Victoria Cross on -Lieut. F. W. Bell, West Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major -W. J. Hardham, 4th New Zealand Contingent.</p> - -<p>At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy fire after -holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man dismounted, and returned -and took him up behind him; the horse not being equal to the weight fell -with them; Lieut. Bell then remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement -till he was out of danger.</p> - -<p>Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third generation. He was -one of the handful of men who so distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, -when twenty-five members of the corps held a body of twelve times their -number of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the corps -was attached—and the guns retired.</p> - -<p>Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham was -with a section which was extended and hotly engaged with a party of about -twenty Boers. Just before the force commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was -wounded and his horse killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under -a heavy fire to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, -and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety.</p> - -<p>Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New Zealand.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII<br /> -<span class="smaller">ROTTNEST</span></h2> - -<p>Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The Island—Boys’ -Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour.</p> - -</div> - -<p>A very pleasant excursion is to Rottnest Island, twelve miles -from Fremantle. We left Perth in the morning in the steamer -to go down the Swan river, and then across the harbour from -Fremantle to the island. The day was perfect, the scenery -exquisite. I do not think the Eastern Colonists are aware how -beautiful their Western sister is, or they would flock over here -still faster than they are now doing. Leaving South Perth at our -back, we had the magnificent stretch of Melville Water in front -of us. Melville Park Estate is a very valuable property, and is -rapidly being transformed from the primeval bush into a place -of busy life; residential areas are being laid out, houses have -been built, suburbs will soon arise, and land is rapidly going -up in value. The little steamer for Coffee Point was just ahead of -us, and at the Point we could see a fine bungalow, which must -be a pleasant house to live in. Wattle-trees and beautiful -flowers were seen in abundance through the field glass I had -brought, and we decided that Melville Water was another -beautiful feature of Western Australia.</p> - -<p>We steamed past Mount Eliza, with its beautiful terraces -of flowers and shrubs looking down upon us. The water was -shining like a jewel at its foot. After rounding Crawley Point, -where the handsome residence of Sir George Shenton stands, we -soon passed into the loveliest little bay conceivable (Freshwater), -its high cliffs studded with pretty villas, and the grand Hotel<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span> -Osborne in the distance. Then on past Cottesloe, and into the -Swan river again, down past Fremantle, and across to Rottnest. -It was a most delightful trip, and I am sure the lovely Swan -river is without a peer in Australia for rowing and yachting; -it is perfect.</p> - -<p>Rottnest is an island about 7 miles long and 2½ miles broad, -and the scenery is very lovely. I do not know when I shall -come to the end of all the beautiful scenery of Westralia, as the -more I travel the prettier each place appears. The summer -residence of the Governor is here, and although not a palatial -mansion, yet the situation is so exquisite and the fishing on -the island so good, that the Governor always enjoys his time of -residence there. An avenue of Morton Bay fig-trees, a mile in -length, has lately been planted on the shore of the Serpentine -Lake, near the viceregal residence. Salt lakes abound on the -island. There are chains of them, and the salt contains medicinal -properties, but at present the lakes are only utilised for -the manufacture of salt. There are some nice gardens, and -agriculture is carried on by means of the labour of the prisoners -on the island, for at Rottnest is the prison for aboriginal offenders -and juvenile delinquents. There is a splendid lighthouse on the -hill, with a revolving light visible for 40 miles. A most peculiar -phenomenon appeared at Fremantle during the extreme heat of -the summer, namely, a perfect mirage, so that two Rottnests -appeared, one immediately above the other, and the lighthouse -seemed to be of immense height. Strangest of all, about half -way up the double-edged island there appeared a long line of -foam, while beyond the island there seemed to be a line of -rocks—recorded by no chart—on the far-distant horizon. It -was a most uncommon sight. Rottnest has rich little valleys, -and all kinds of fruit could be grown there, for the soil -is extremely fertile. There are some very peculiar rock -formations and caves, one particularly fine one being called, -after our eminent tragedian, “The Henry Irving.” No better -spot could be found for an invalid in search of health. Many -people have cause to thank the Western Australian climate for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -a return to health after having been threatened with consumption. -A friend of mine came from Victoria very ill, and -was thoroughly restored after a few months’ residence here. -The long summer, the bright sunshine, the dry warm air and -pure atmosphere are just suited for delicate lungs. The winter -is quite invigorating, with just enough rain and cloud to give -variety—the spice of life. This colony seems to combine all -the good qualities of the famous health resorts about which -we colonials hear and read so much—Madeira, Egypt, the -Riviera, &c.</p> - -<p>After a most enjoyable day we returned to Perth in the moonlight, -and with the scent of many sweet flowers wafting from -the shore, to the steamer, arrived all too soon at the end of our -charming excursion.</p> - -<p>A very pretty drive is to Woodman’s Point, not far from -Fremantle. This is a great place for camping out and fishing -at holiday times. Numbers of tents dotted about testified to its -being a favourite spot. The boys of the Swan Orphanage are -taken out every year to the seaside for a holiday, and this year -Woodman’s Point was chosen. Their happy faces and healthy -appearance told you how well they were looked after. The poor -little fellows were delighted at the sweets and cakes taken to -them by several lady visitors. Their tents were models of -tidiness and comfort; the dining-room was a floor of bushes -under a big gum-tree. With the lovely blue sky overhead, the -sparkling water of the sea close by, the beautiful view all -around of ships, steamers and boats, it is an ideal place for -boys to enjoy themselves, and they appeared thoroughly to do -so, playing cricket, climbing trees, and pursuing other amusements -dear to the hearts of boyhood. Some of them sang and -recited very nicely, one patriotic boy giving “The Absent-Minded -Beggar” with much enthusiasm. As we drove back to Fremantle -the harbour looked splendid. A great deal of money -has been spent by the Government to make it suitable for large -vessels; at one time no very large ship could get a safe -anchorage. At an expenditure of over a million of money,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> -however, Fremantle Harbour has now been made able to -anchor and berth the largest vessels coming to the colony. -The trade of Western Australia is now most important, and sums -up to the big figure of £12,000,000 a year; 50,000 people -travel between here and the eastern colonies every year, and -millions of pounds worth of gold produced in the colony have -been taken away by sea. The mail-steamers now put in -at Fremantle in place of Albany as heretofore, thus giving great -dissatisfaction to the Albanians. However, the change of port -is not only necessary for trade, as Fremantle is the principal -port of the colony, but will also give people travelling from the -other side of the world a better opportunity of seeing the -metropolis and goldfields of Western Australia, which they were -often deterred from doing by the journey from Albany to Perth, -a distance of 338 miles, so it is an ill wind that blows nobody -good.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus29" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus29.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">GUILDFORD</span></h2> - -<p>Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John Forrest—Darling -Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby -Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields.</p> - -</div> - -<p>One morning I drove to Guildford, 9 miles from Perth. -Such a pretty drive! The Swan river winds its way so far, -and is there joined by the Helena. The many farmhouses -and crops of this fine agricultural district impress one very -favourably. About half-way there is a fine hotel and good -pleasure-grounds, called the Hotel Ascot, overlooking the river, -where much boating and fishing are enjoyed by the visitors -patronising the hotel.</p> - -<p>Guildford is a pretty place, and, being so near Perth, is -likely to become quite an important town. There are some -good residences near. On Mr. Hammersly’s estate, called -Pyrton, after the family estate in England, is a fine house, -standing amongst unrivalled scenery. The scented foliage -of the big gum-trees casts a grateful shade for the sleek -cattle, and in the sweet springtime almost every bit of ground -is covered with wild flowers of exquisite beauty. The Hon. -H. J. Saunders’ estate at Henley Park is a few miles -farther on, with a very quaint-looking house 70 years old, -and built of sun-dried bricks. The walls are nearly covered -with ivy, and woodbine runs over the fences. All kinds of -flowers spread their rich perfume around. The orchard is -close by, the scented blossoms of the various trees mingling -their fragrance with that of the flowers. Mr. Saunders<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> -has a large racing-stable, and takes great interest in racing -matters. The private training-track, made at great expense, -is a mile round, and looked like a smooth lawn; the stud flock -of Romney Marsh bred sheep had been feeding there for the -previous few weeks. Mr. Saunders’ racing-stables are recognised -as the best in Western Australia, and he has a small and -select breeding-stud, including -Leda by Trenton and Lady -Sylvia by Newminster. His -racehorses are likely-looking -animals, especially Henley and -Black Rock, which have some -very good records. As we -drove back to Guildford the sun -was just setting, and the country -road with its red soil contrasted -well with the different greens of -the trees and fields, and with -occasional waving crops, vineyards, -and blossoming orchards. -Everything was perfectly peaceful, -until, all at once, the stillness was broken by a party of -huntsmen returning from a good day’s sport. One of them -turned out to be an old friend, who told me that the -country around Guildford is excellent for hunting, and that -there is a very good hunt club. Our Australian poet, A. L. -Gordon, writes:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Here’s a health to every sportsman,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Be he stableman or lord;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">If his heart be true I care not</div> - <div class="verse indent2">What his pockets may afford.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And may he ever pleasantly</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Each gallant sport pursue,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">If he takes his liquor fairly,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And his fences fairly too.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp60" id="illus30" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus30.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hon. H. J. Saunders</p> -</div> - -<p>I put up at the Guildford Hotel for the night, and in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span> -morning thoroughly enjoyed the fresh fish caught for my -breakfast in the river close by. Some excitement was one day -caused in quiet Guildford when, some new works being in -progress, some of the quartz boulders forming the old foundation -were dug up and carted elsewhere; a boulder fell from -the dray, and was crushed by one of the wheels; a glittering -object was noticed in the <i>débris</i>, and turned out to be gold; -the quartz had originally been taken from the Darling Ranges.</p> - -<p>I went on to Midland Junction, 2 miles away, <i>en route</i> to -the Mundaring Weir, from which source the much-needed river -of water is to be taken to the Coolgardie Goldfields. This -gigantic scheme will cost two and a half millions of money, but -what a boon it will be to the waterless goldfields, of which far-famed -Coolgardie is perhaps the most waterless! In spite of -the croakings of those who are adverse to the scheme, Sir -John Forrest will, I am sure, be found right, and when plenty -of fresh water is obtainable at Coolgardie, so that the millions -of tons of ore waiting for treatment can be properly crushed, -people will see that the first Queen of the Goldfields is not yet -dethroned.</p> - -<p>The reservoir, where the waters of the Helena river will be -stored by hundreds of millions of gallons and then carried -across the country to the goldfields, is now in course of construction, -and in two years a river (so to say) of fresh water, -yielding 5,000,000 gallons daily by means of enormous steel -pipes, 330 miles long and 30 inches in diameter, will be flowing, -and the Coolgardie housewives will be able to turn on their -taps for fresh water. A new era will then dawn for that -beautiful city, and its true prosperity begin. The sum paid -yearly by the Railway Department for water on its goldfields’ -service would more than pay interest on the cost of the scheme. -The morning that I arrived at Mundaring Weir the workmen -were in a great state of excitement; their residence blocks were -being allotted. There were 130 applications, 6 of which were -refused, the applicants not being considered desirable residents. -The Department will not allow an hotel to be established.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span> -Work at the weir was progressing well. At the huge quarries -masons were working up granite into blocks. There is an -almost inexhaustible deposit of granite, and the chief engineer, -Mr. C. Y. O’Connor, intends to form the outer face of -the wall with granite instead of using concrete, as is generally -done. One enormous dam, nearly finished, is to hold 10,000,000 -gallons of water. The watercourse has been divested of timber, -and the appearance of the landscape thereby greatly changed. -The weir, when finished, will be 560 feet long, and will hold -4,600,000,000 gallons of water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus31" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus31.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">GOVERNMENT BORE, NEAR MUNDARING</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span></p> - -<p>The train that carried us back passed through miles and -miles of everlasting flowers. The ground on each side was -covered with a carpet of them. Acres first of white, then of -pink, blue, yellow and purple, charm the eye, and the kangaroo -paw, standing up in its vivid hues of crimson and green, -added a still further charm to the scene. On we went -through the country robed in its spring garb of beauty, -until we came to Smith’s Mill, named after Frederick Smith, -a young gentleman explorer in 1836, who died of exhaustion -at this place after having shown courage and endurance of -hardship worthy of his cousin, Florence Nightingale. Here -I left the train in order to visit the Darling Nurseries, which, -although it is only seven years since they were first planted, are -remarkable for luxuriance. The trees, with their loads of fruit, -were weighed down with their own excellence. Thousands of -citron-trees, 50,000 apple-trees, peaches and nectarines in -enormous quantities, plums, pears and prunes in profusion, -persimmons and other Japanese fruits were to be seen; -and as for the flowers, the scent of them was almost overpowering. -The roses were especially fine; all possible sorts -seemed to be growing here. The foliage of the English and -Canadian elm-trees and poplars formed a pleasing contrast to -the forest vegetation around. It is only a few minutes’ walk -from the station to this charming place, which is but 16 miles -from Perth; and any one wanting a change from the city should -take an afternoon and visit it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span></p> - -<p>Five miles from Mr. Hawter’s nursery garden is the Haughton -Vineyard, now owned by the Mundaring Wine Company. The -vines grow at an altitude of 1000 feet above the sea-level. -The wine is delicious. There is a notable grape growing there -called “Tarbinet Sauvignon,” from which is produced the celebrated -Lafitte claret. Mundaring seems to be a congenial home -to the vine, and its productive powers are of a high order.</p> - -<p>Another charming place to see, 28 miles from Perth, -is Kelmscott, nestling in its bed of flowers. Everything -looked delightful on the morning that I went there. Nature -never appeared more beautiful; it seemed cruel to pluck the -flowers from their beds and crush the sweet grass with the -horse’s hoofs. I felt almost like Mr. Ruskin, who was such -a passionate defender of nature that he would never pluck a -flower. Two miles from Kelmscott is another sweet little -village called Armadale. I put up at the picturesque inn and -enjoyed a few days’ quiet rest among the beautiful surroundings. -The orchards, gardens, and vineyards here are so many that it -would take a whole book to describe them. Sir Arthur Stepney -and Mr. Jull own the largest properties, and have recently -equipped a vinery. Only a few years ago immense jarrah and -cool white and red gum trees stood in undisputed possession. -Now fruits of all kinds are growing in luxuriance. Oranges, -lemons, and sub-tropical fruits seem to flourish especially -well. So do flowers; blue lechenaultias, coral creeper, -heaths of all colours, heliotrope, primroses, pink, and -yellow blossoms nestle in the grass. Lovely bouquets can -be made from the delicate grey smoke-flower and the pink -immortelles, and will last a long time without water. Six -miles farther on we came to Jarrahdale. As its name imports, -this is the home of the jarrah-tree, and there are large timber -mills called the Jarrahdale Jarrah Mills, owned by a London -company with a capital of £300,000. This company have -the advantage of the fine harbour of Rockingham, where large -ships call to convey the timber to all parts of the world. There -are five mills on this property. I stayed at the town one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span> -night, and attended a concert got up by the employées, which -was quite enjoyable, many of them being really good singers -and dancers. There is a nice hall, built, of course, with the -handsome jarrah-wood, which polishes so beautifully that it -looks like mahogany. It never shrinks or warps, so that for a -dancing-floor it cannot be excelled. There has been a great -demand from South Africa for this wood, which is almost -impervious to the ravages of time. Piles that have been driven -into the River Swan at the Causeway, and others into the sea -at Fremantle, have been taken up after 57 years and -found to be uninjured, having resisted the attacks of the sea -worm. This wood is one of the best for building purposes, -for it resists the white ant and is the least inflammable kind -known; yet when burning it throws out immense heat and -makes splendid charcoal. There are many charcoal-burners -about who are making a good living. Iron bolts and nails -driven into the jarrah do not loosen from rust, and there is no -doubt the jarrah is the principal tree of the colony. It has -come triumphantly through several severe tests, and is now -in great demand all over the world. The Golden West does -not depend on her mines alone, but, as Mr. Zeb Lane said -last year, “Make no mistake about it, the jarrah of Western -Australia will yet pave the streets of many of the leading cities -of the world.” The late Mr. Ednie Brown, Conservator of -Forests, told me that there were 20,000,000 acres of timbered -land in Western Australia valued by an expert at £124,000,000. -At present there are 50 sawmills in the colony, employing -over 4000 men, and still the demand is much greater than the -supply, so that there is a great opening for more capitalists.</p> - -<p>Whitby Falls Lunatic Asylum is near Jarrahdale, and the -poor souls who inhabit it must, I am sure, find there a real -haven of rest. The asylum nestles in a sweet valley at the -foot of the Darling Range, and the hills make a grand background. -Gardens, large fields and paddocks, with cattle feeding, -stretch all round, and close by is a magnificent orchard. Five -miles farther on are the famous Serpentine Falls, whose<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span> -glittering cascades falling among the big rocks and boulders, -nearly covered with scented foliage, then bubbling and rippling -down the valley in joyous frolic among the sweet flowers and -ferns, form an idyllic picture. By many this spot is called the -“garden of the colony,” and certainly the luxuriant ferns and -flowers seemed to grow more beautiful at every step. The -blackboy and red gum trees grew more thickly than in any place -I have seen, and where those trees flourish everything seems -to grow with extra luxuriance. The blackboy is a most -peculiar-looking grass tree, with a rough thick stem and a -crown of thick heavy dark green grass, looking at a distance, -especially in the twilight, like a real blackboy. The gum from -the tree is eagerly eaten by the natives and cattle. It also -exudes a resin from the stem, which is used for pitch in -thatching the native houses, or Mia-Mias, as well as for other -purposes; these trees burn brilliantly. The falls come rapidly -down from the Darling Range in picturesque cascades, falling -over the crystalline rocks into pools below, thence into the -river. Twenty-six miles farther on is Pinjarrah. To see this -quiet little place now, one would not imagine that years ago it -was the scene of an immense native rising; that the soldiers -and mounted police had followed the aborigines for miles, and -that here the climax came, and hundreds of natives fell. -Things are changed since those days of bloodshed, and the few -aborigines left do not seem to bear any ill-will to the white -fellow. An old native said to me: “I like white fellow; he -take all my land, but he make my house, and my big railway, -grow big corn, big potatoes; black fellow do nothing, white -fellow know everything, so white fellow do what he like—you -give me sixpence?” The black fellow always finishes up any -conversation with that request. Pinjarrah is on the Murray -river, and the centre of a large agricultural district, where -plenty of splendid land is available for the selector. Some -economists say that population is pressing on the earth’s productive -powers, and that by-and-by there will be a dearth of -animal food; yet before mankind is starved out he can become<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span> -vegetarian, as meat diet is expensive compared with a vegetable -one. It is said that twenty acres of land are necessary to feed -one man on meat, while the same land under vegetable crops -would support a great number. One acre of wheat will support -42 people; one of oats, 84; of potatoes and rice, 176; so let -us not despair while the rich land is still wailing for cultivation. -Cabbages flourish exceedingly at Pinjarrah, and the -climate and soil are well adapted for English fruits. There is -quite a thriving village, with good buildings and private houses. -From this place I took a drive of 14 miles through rich -fruit-growing country to the charming seaside town of Mandurah. -Pears, peaches and nectarines loaded the trees, -and there is a fine fruit-preserving factory, as well as -several factories for preserving fish. The Brighton Hotel -is very comfortable, and you can get a vast amount of pleasure -at this charming resort. Boating, fishing and shooting -can be indulged in to your heart’s content. I had a right -merry time; several people I knew were staying there, and I -became quite an expert at fishing. Across the ferry from the -hotel is the Murray estuary, which is really teeming with fish. -The goldfields people patronise Mandurah largely, and many -huge catches of fish have been chronicled by them on their -return to the fields from their holiday. Very large kingfish -are frequently caught with hand-lines. Almost any kind of -line will do; it is amusing to see the greedy things snapping at -anything you put on the hook. I saw one caught that measured -5 feet in length and weighed 38 lb. Black bream weighing -4 lb. are a common catch. Hosts of crabs are about, making the -fishing more exciting than ever. At one time I thought fishing -the slowest amusement in the world, but after this experience at -Mandurah I am convinced that there is some fascination in it -after all. In two days a visitor caught 17 dozen whiting, -bream and mullet. The mullet is a delicious fish, more like -salmon than anything. Some English people staying at -the hotel said it was quite equal to the English salmon. As -you may imagine, plenty of well-cooked fish is always supplied<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"></a>[102]</span> -at table, and any one requiring a quiet and enjoyable rest from -city troubles cannot do better than visit Mandurah, where, in -addition to the splendid fishing, other sports can be indulged -in, since plenty of good duck, teal and snipe shooting is to be -got at the lakes 5 miles out.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus32" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus32.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">LUNATIC ASYLUM, W.A.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span></p> - -<p>Returning to Pinjarrah, I drove out to a fine orange grove. -Some idea of its character can be gained from the fact that -some well-known fruiterers of Perth bought four trees from -the owner at £100 per tree, and, after ripening and picking, -made £50 profit per tree. The Drakesbrook Experimental -Government Farm is about 12 miles off, and I there saw -enormous cucumbers, pumpkins, and other vegetables.</p> - -<p>Seven miles farther on are Millar’s Yarloop Mills. The -export from these mills is very large; 21 sailing ships and -15 steamers were employed to take away the timber to -various places last year. The settlement presents a busy -appearance. When the train stopped over 100 men came -from the mills to get their newspapers and see if there was any -one they knew in the train. I left the train and looked for -an hotel to put up at, but there is none; however, I obtained -comfortable quarters at a private house. There are several -mills connected with Yarloop, among them Iron Pot, so called -from a conical hill near to it. Hoffman & Waterhouse’s -Mills are 13 miles away, and are connected by telephone with -the head mill. The office is very handsomely built of jarrah -lined with polished wood, tongued and grooved. Much of the -wood of Western Australia is suitable for small manufacturing -purposes, such as making picture-frames, walking-sticks -and knife-handles, while the jam-wood, with its aromatic -perfume, is the very thing for pipe-making. I am sure a large -trade could be worked up in that business.</p> - -<p>Some beautiful artistic work in jarrah carving has lately -been done by Mr. Howitt, of Perth, and was shown at the -Paris Exhibition. One piece especially, a font, is most -exquisitely carved. Besides these jarrah carvings, Mr. -Howitt has made some panels from the following Australian<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"></a>[103]</span> -woods—karri, tuart, redgum, sandal-wood, raspberry jam, -banksia, she oak, prickly pear, York gum, blackbutt, wandoo -and morrell; each of the panels is decorated with a carving of -the tree’s foliage. I also saw at Robertson & Moffat’s furnishing -warehouse, before leaving Perth, a handsome dinner-waggon -made from seventeen kinds of Western Australian woods, with -which, besides the before-mentioned woods, salmon gum, -gimblet, castor-oil, swamp gum, and curly jarrah were most -artistically introduced in the mosaic part, and with the handsomely -carved typical swan on the top made a very effective -piece of furniture.</p> - -<p>The Chamber of Commerce, Prague, Bohemia, have recently -written to Mr. Ulrich, of Fremantle, asking for specimens -and samples of Western Australian woods to be sent to -that place with a view to future business; and when the -beauty and excellence of the woods become more generally -known I think they will be put to more artistic uses than wood-paving. -Outdoor enjoyments are yearly coming into more -favour, and the demand for outdoor chairs, seats, and tables -must increase. The jarrah-wood never shrinks, and being of -a beautiful dark red colour does not require paint. The timber -resources of the colony are marvellous, and it is estimated that -it would take fully a century to exhaust the now matured trees, -while fresh ones would be growing all the time.</p> - -<p>The Harvey agricultural area, 9 miles from Yarloop, comprises -43,000 acres; of this 19,803 acres have been surveyed into 155 -plots. The land is splendid for fruit and vegetables, and there -are a good many selections, 10,000 acres having already been -taken up. The soil is rather heavy, and expensive to clear -and drain. The Korijekup Estate is managed by Mr. Asche, -and is well under cultivation, the oranges grown there being -especially fine. There are good paddocks for horses to run -in, and the next time our family steed is sent out to grass -it will be to Korijekup. There are about 12 homesteads on -the estate, occupied by different families. The pasture lands -are very good, and the soil well adapted for strawberry and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"></a>[104]</span> -gooseberry growing. There are about 10 acres of these -delicious fruits under cultivation. The manager’s house and -men’s quarters are near the river, the latter a substantially -built structure of slabs, made 60 years ago by convict labour -for Sir James Stirling, to whom the land was originally granted -(in lieu of payment of salary). In the winter time there are a -great many trappers about, who gain a good living by trapping -the native bear and opossum, for the skins of which they -get 9s. per dozen in Perth. The grey skins, when edged -with black, make beautiful rugs for a cold climate, but the -winters in Western Australia are so mild that things of that -kind are not required. In the early days the old coach-road to -Perth from Bunbury passed near Korijekup, and where there -were formerly only halting-places many flourishing farms now -stand. The land about there is very suitable for dairying, the -grass being green all the year round; the soil is brown loam, -interspersed with rich black swamps, and suitable for intense -culture.</p> - -<p>Another 15 miles brought me to Collie Station, where I took -the branch train to the Collie coalfields. Until recently these -fields have been somewhat neglected, but are now coming into -great favour, the coal got there having been proved to be of -excellent quality, and now being extensively used. The -Government have decided to use it on the railways, and many -of the shipping merchants trading to different places have also -signified their intention of using it. The Smelting Works at -Fremantle are following suit; householders are consuming -it largely, and I can state from my own experience that it is -excellent coal, which never goes out, but burns to the last bit, -just leaving clean brown dust behind. It will in time be a mine -of wealth to Western Australia and constitute a great industry, -making work for thousands of coal-miners, for the deposits of -coal are almost limitless. Bores have been used in different -parts of the field, and have proved the existence of enormous -bodies of coal. The Collie coal-mine has recently been bought -from the Collie Company by Mr. Zeb Lane, for the British<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"></a>[105]</span> -Westralia Syndicate, and is now called the Collie Proprietary -Coalfields of Western Australia.</p> - -<p>Collie is a very pleasant little town, with some hotels, -several stores, and many snug and pretty dwellings. One -usually thinks of a coal-mining town as an uninteresting, grimy -place, but Collie is nothing of the kind. In the midst of a -magnificent jarrah forest, at an elevation of 600 feet above sea-level, -this place has, I imagine, a brilliant future before it. -The air is delightfully bracing; the sea breeze blows in from -the coast, and in the near future, when the gardens now being -planted by the men on their residential plots have come to -maturity, the miners will be able, after their work underground, -to sit under their own vine or fig-tree and enjoy the pipe of -peace. This is not a mere form of words, but will be solid fact, -for the ground is so good that, beside containing coal underneath, -it will grow all kinds of products on its fertile flats and -valleys.</p> - -<p>Many of the men are making very comfortable homes for -themselves; they can see that the field is permanent, and that -they may hope to remain here. Collie will, I predict, be in the -future one of the principal towns of the colony.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"></a>[106]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</h2> - -<p>Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native -murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert -Scott—Old Residents.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp63" id="illus33" style="max-width: 26.5625em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus33.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Paper Bark Tree</p> -</div> - -<p>Bunbury is 13 miles from Collie, and is the terminus of this -line of railway. In passing through Picton, 4 miles before -you come to Bunbury, you can see the homestead of the -Forrest family. It is a -picturesque-looking old -house on a little hill with -a pretty brook running -below, and the surroundings -are very beautiful. -Mr. William Forrest, the -ex-Premier’s father, who -recently passed away at -the ripe age of 80 years, -arrived in this colony by -the ship <i>Trusty</i> in 1842, -and first settled at Australind. -Some three years -later he erected a mill -on what has since been -called Mill Point, on the -banks of the estuary near Bunbury, and in 1849 removed to -Picton, where he resided until the day of his death. Mr. Forrest -bore with indomitable courage many misfortunes, such as the -burning of his flour-mill, the engine and stones of which were -afterwards removed to Bunbury, and formed the nucleus of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"></a>[107]</span> -well-known Koombanah Mill, now owned by Mr. Robert -Forrest, his sixth son. The above-mentioned mill was the -first water flour-mill in the South-West, and was erected in -1849. Mr. Forrest dammed up the Preston river and utilised -it for the purpose of his business. You may be sure that he -was particularly proud of his explorer sons, John and Alick, -and also proud of the fact that one was Premier of the colony, -and the other Mayor of Perth. Sir John made three exploring -expeditions, and it is amusing to hear what “Tommy Pierre,” -one of the natives who accompanied him, said at the banquet -held in honour of the explorers’ return to Perth: “Well, -gentlemen, I am very thankful to get back to Swan river, -Bunbury, Fremantle; I thought that we never get back again. -Many a time I go into camp, going through desert places, and -say, ‘Master Forrest, where the devil are you going to? Master -Forrest, I give you one pound to take me back.’ Master say: -‘Hush! What are you talking about? I’ll take you right -through to Adelaide,’ and I hush. I always obey him; I only -black fellow, you know, but I am all thankful; I always very -glad to see white fellow around me.” The <i>South Australian -Register</i>, of August 27, 1870, says: “On Saturday morning, -the band of explorers from Western Australia, under the -leadership of Mr. John Forrest, reached Adelaide. They were -escorted to Government House by a number of horsemen, and -the crowd heartily cheered them as they came up. These men -are heroes in the highest sense of the term. The expedition, -as many in Western Australia still remember, was organised -through the instrumentality of Governor Weld.” The late Premier, -who a year before had piloted an expedition to search for -the remains of the explorer Leichhart, readily acquiesced in the -suggestions that were put forward by the then Governor of the -colony, and on March 30, 1870, accompanied by Mr. Alex. Forrest -as second in command; H. M’Larty, a police constable; W. H. -Osborne, farrier, &c., and two natives, he set out for Perth. -The party followed the course taken out by Eyre in 1841, but -in an opposite direction, and although they did not experience<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"></a>[108]</span> -the difficulties that Eyre encountered, the troubles were -numerous enough. On March 18, 1874, Sir John Forrest -led another expedition to Adelaide. From Perth his party -proceeded to Champion Bay, and the wild, untrodden desert -was safely crossed. On November 3, the explorers reached -Adelaide, and at a banquet which was given in their honour a -few days afterwards, the Premier of South Australia (the Hon. -Arthur Blyth), speaking of the leader, said: “Here we have -the likeness of a man who knew not what fear was, because he -never saw fear—who carried out the thorough principle of the -Briton, in that he always persevered to the end.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"></a>[109]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus34" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus34.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">LADY FORREST</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"></a>[110]</span></p> - -<p>I have before me as I write a picture of Sir John as he -was in 1866, 34 years ago; also a picture of the third -expedition crossing the spinifex desert; terrible country to go -through. An extract from Sir John’s diary says: “Tommy -(a native) went on with the only horse not knocked up to find -water. I followed his tracks, leading the two done-up horses. -Spinifex everywhere. We can only crawl along, having to -walk and drag the horses with us.” At some places the -aborigines were very troublesome, the camp being attacked -one night by 60 of them, who could not be driven off until -some of them had been shot. Sir John Forrest is a man who -has the colony’s interests at heart. By his wisdom and foresight -great tracts of land are being opened up. In his own -words: “We have a great work to do in the great continent of -Australia, all of it encircled by the sea, and flying the flag of -Old England, no other nation having any right or part in it. -And what a continent it is! The Western Australian territory is -as big as France, Spain, Italy, Austria, and Germany, and contains -973,000 miles (square). If you were to walk round it, -you would have nearly a 4000-mile walk. The Empire of -Australia represents nearly one-seventeenth part of the world’s -surface. We have great works and great responsibilities before -us, and we are proud of Western Australia. We want to be in -the future one of the brightest gems in the English Crown.” In -1890 Sir John spoke the following words into Edison’s phonograph:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"></a>[111]</span> -“I firmly believe that Western Australia has started -on a progressive and prosperous career.” Such words bring -to mind the prophetic words of Cowper’s “Boadicea”:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The progeny that springs from the forests of our land</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Armed with thunder, clad with wings, shall a wider world command;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Regions Cæsar never knew thy posterity shall sway</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where his Eagles never flew, none invincible as they.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It was in 1890 that representative government was granted -to Western Australia, and Mr. Forrest chosen as Premier. In -1891 her Majesty Queen Victoria conferred on him the honour -of knighthood, and for ten years Sir John Forrest remained -Premier of Western Australia (establishing a record in Australia’s -history), a post which he resigned in order to assume -that of Postmaster-General for Australia; but has since been -appointed Minister of Federal Defence in the Ministry of the -Commonwealth of Federated Australia. Not long before her -lamented death, our late beloved Queen was pleased to bestow -on Sir John Forrest the Grand Cross of St. Michael and -St. George, he being, I believe, the first Australian born who -has received that honour.</p> - -<p>I was quite surprised to find such a fine hotel as Gordon’s -Pier in a country town. The dinner was excellently served, -the meat especially tender, the fish sweeter, the vegetables -nicer, and the fruit more juicy, than usual. Perhaps it was -because I had been roughing it a little just before that I valued -the extra comfort I obtained here. A splendid balcony reached -right round the hotel, from which was visible the sparkling -water of Koombanah Bay, with its long pier and beach of silver -sand. The lighthouse on the hill, with its square tower and -grey walls, stood like a sentinel against the sky. The light -that shines out to sea at night is 117 feet above high water, -and is visible 12 miles. As it was a hot night, most of -the guests were out on the balcony. I lay back in my comfortable -lounge-chair, inhaled the health-giving sea breeze, and -thoroughly enjoyed a cup of delicious coffee brought me by the -attentive waiter. From the drawing-room, where some of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"></a>[112]</span> -guests were passing a pleasant half-hour, and while singing for -their own pleasure, also affording gratification to the visitors -outside, came strains of music. I retired early, and was -agreeably surprised to find my bedroom lit up with electric -light. The noise from the machinery rather kept me awake at -first, but I soon passed into the land of dreams. The housemaid -told me in the morning that a great many people from the -goldfields stay here in the summer to recoup after the dryness -and heat of the fields, and that the managers of the mines -usually wish to have their bedrooms on the side near the -machine-room, as the noise is home-like, or mine-like, and lulls -them off to sleep.</p> - -<p>In the morning I took a waggonette and drove out to explore -Bunbury, going first to the Leschenault Estuary, a sheet of -water divided from the sea by a strip of land 10 or 12 -miles long. The surface was dotted with wild fowl and its -depths are full of fish. The Collie and Preston rivers fall into -the estuary. On the shore there are plenty of black swans -and wild duck which seem to be quite tame. On the east -side of the estuary is the site of Australind, to which, 57 -years ago, many people came from England to settle, but -finding the place was not what it had been represented to them -by unscrupulous agents, they disbanded and settled in different -parts of the colony, so that Australind now is merely a -name. It is very prettily situated at the junction of the -Brunswick and Collie rivers. There are large dykes about -there not yet explored, which may contain wonderful mineral -wealth. Manna gum-trees are to be found, and yield sometimes -as much as fifty tons of gum from one tree.</p> - -<p>Bunbury’s history dates from the first settlement of the -colony, when New South Wales sent soldiers to King George’s -Sound in order to circumvent the French, who nearly had -possession of Western Australia. Governor Stirling took up -large tracts of country near Bunbury in lieu of salary, and -settlers were granted 200 and 300 acres of land as an inducement -to go there. When, 60 years ago, the intending<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"></a>[113]</span> -settlers arrived and pitched their camps, a few soldiers -were stationed for their protection, but as the natives were -mostly friendly and intelligent, the soldiers had little to do, so -whiled away the time by helping the settlers, and as many -hands make light work the little community soon became -prosperous.</p> - -<p>In those days the post was sent twice a month by an aboriginal -foot postman. Sometimes he got tired of his work, and -would leave the post-bag under a tree and decamp. Then scouts -had to be sent out to find the mail. An old colonist, Mr. R. -Scott, related to me many of his experiences at that time. Mr. -Scott’s father arrived in the colony in 1830, and not liking the -look of Fremantle, which was merely a sandy beach and wild -bush, with a few tents scattered about, intended returning to -Scotland, but Governor Stirling persuaded him to go to Bunbury -with some other intending settlers. The younger members of -the party traversed the 115 miles on foot, the older people -going in the Governor’s ship to the port. The tramp was a -long one, and young Scott’s clothes were so tattered when he -arrived that he would not go out to speak to the Governor, but -hid behind a tree. He was, however, persuaded to show himself, -and the Governor, seeing the poor boy in such a plight, -sent to the vessel for a suit of his own clothes and a cap, no -others being available. By cutting off portions and tucking in -other parts the boy was made presentable. Mr. Scott’s mother, -who died some years ago, aged 88, kept those clothes with -great pride until the day of her death.</p> - -<p>Whaling was a local industry in those days. Mr. Scott and -his brother had several whaling-boats, and sometimes took as -much as 90 tons of whale-oil to Fremantle. An American -vessel went ashore at that time, and the enterprising captain, -being stranded, took up a piece of land and started a garden, -which he fenced in with the staves of olive barrels.</p> - -<p>The only native murder at Bunbury was perpetrated in 1840, -Mr. Layman, a settler at Wanerup, being the victim. He was -speared by the king of the black tribe then at Wanerup, about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"></a>[114]</span> -6 miles from Busselton. This booka (king) came to Mr. Layman’s -camp when a native boy, servant to Mr. Layman, was -packing up his damper (a kind of large colonial scone cooked in -ashes) to take with him as rations when he was going out with -sheep. The booka took the damper from the boy, and throwing -him a small piece, was going off with the rest. Mr. Layman -came up and saw this, and taking the booka by the beard -forced him to give up the damper. This was evidently too much -indignity for him, and when Mr. Layman turned his back he -speared and killed him, then immediately made off into the -bush. The settlers, about twenty in number, determined to -follow and execute him, but found many difficulties in the -way, as none of the natives would lead them to his tracks. -They, however, tracked him as well as they could, and to -frighten the tribe they shot down every native they came across. -This put such fear into them that an old man called Crocodile -was induced to show them the way, and they then tracked the -murderer to the Capel river, to a hollow tree, whence it was -some time before he could be dislodged. When this was -effected he was found to be well armed with spears ready to -fight. He was, however, summarily shot by Corporal Gill, and -his head carried back on a pole to the Vasse (now called Busselton). -Since then the only known murder by natives was that -of Mrs. McGowan, who was speared by a half-witted native. -The shooting of the blacks, although it seems cruel, was the -means of showing them that the white man was their master, -and after this no more trouble arose with the various tribes. -Had it not been done the tables would have been turned, and -all the white settlers might have been murdered.</p> - -<p>The natives are divided into four families or tribes—the -Ballarook, Deduruk, Donderup, and Gnakerunk. Consequently, -if you want to find out what tribe a certain native belongs to -you must say to him: “You Ballarook?” If he does not -belong to that tribe he will say: “No, me Donderup.” They -are all brothers and sisters in each tribe, and bound to protect -one another. When civilised they make fairly good servants,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"></a>[117]</span> -but never quite lose their wild instincts; and when they have a -holiday, which they frequently take of their own free will, away -they go to their tribe, and revel in free life until they tire and -once more long for the flesh-pots of civilisation, when they -again return to their work.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"></a>[115]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus35" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus35.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">BUNBURY</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"></a>[116]</span></p> - -<p>Thousands of acres of land are available here for purchase. -The Mangles Estate has lately been opened up for settlement on -very easy terms. Potatoes, onions and other vegetables grow -most luxuriantly. The pastoral and agricultural land is very rich, -and as many as three crops a year are sometimes taken off the -same land by Mr. Clarke, who has a farm near Bunbury. The -forest lands around abound with splendid jarrah and other -timber. The harbour is very safe and partially protected by a -coral reef. There are many handsome residences. The Hon. -Charles Spencer has a large house on a hill in the most -beautiful position in Bunbury, and there are some splendid -vineyards, the soil being specially good for vine culture.</p> - -<p>The town has 1200 inhabitants and the district about 3000. -It is very prosperous, and has many fine public buildings; some -of the early settlers who went through so many rough times are -now in the enjoyment of comfortable homes, and passing peacefully -down the vale of life. There is an exceptionally fine post-office, -standing near the spot where the barracks were erected -for the soldiers in the long-ago days. The hospital is an imposing -building, on an elevation commanding a fine view of the bay, -and has very pretty grounds. It would be by no means -intolerable to be ill in this lovely seaside resort, but, as a rule, -people who come to Bunbury get well, not ill. The walking, -driving, boating, fishing, bathing and shooting excursions that -are the order of the day give one no time to think of being ill. -Cycling is a favourite pastime, and there is a very good club. -The streets are wide and planted with shady trees. The -Preston river runs into the estuary, its banks are loaded with -bright flowers, and the golden sunshine shining through the -trees, the blue water and the massive breakwater in the distance -make beautiful Bunbury look like a bit of Paradise.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"></a>[118]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus36" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus36.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Blackwood River</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</h2> - -<p>Dardanup Park—Donnybrook—Bridgetown—The Grange—Dallgarrup—A -Prodigious Prize—Greenbushes—Tinfield—The Great -Forest.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The Hon. H. W. Venn has a splendid estate called Dardanup -Park, 10 miles from Bunbury. The dwelling-house is built -in old English style and surrounded by a garden, where -all kinds of beautiful flowers grow in profusion. There is -an enormous shed, capable of holding large quantities of hay. -The dairy cows, standing knee-deep in pasture, are specially -sleek and fat; the milk and cream that I tasted at Dardanup -seemed exceptionally sweet. I went for a six-mile drive to the -Ferguson river, passing many pretty farms, nearly all on -Mr. Venn’s land. One goes for miles down a narrow road like -an English lane, except that the hedges are formed of the -beautiful Australian wattle in place of English hawthorn. The -grand Australian trees, red gum and jarrah (some of immense -size), the pretty banksia, the delicate paper-tree, the coral creeper, -which, as its name implies, is of the colour of pink coral, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"></a>[119]</span> -in some instances, had embraced the banksia-trees and mingled -lovingly with their broad green leaves, all combined to make a -pretty picture. A little Roman Catholic church and, farther on, a -Protestant one, gave token that the spiritual welfare of the -people at Dardanup is well looked after. It is singular how -many native names end with “up.” On to the road to Bunbury -there is a station called Wagerup. An old settler in the -district was not satisfied with that name, and wrote to Mr. Venn, -the member for the district, to say that he was an old settler of -30 or 40 years, and thought he ought to have a say in the -naming of the railway station. Being a loyal Englishman, he -wished it to be called Queen Victoria Station. I am sorry -to say his request has not yet been acceded to. Another loyal -subject at another railway station, where there are about two -other dwellings, has recently built a bush public-house, and -outside is printed, in large letters, “The Palace Hotel.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Venn is very much liked by all the farming community. -I overheard a controversy on politics at the dinner-table between -several farmers, and they were unanimous in their -opinion that Mr. Venn was the man for them, and for the -country.</p> - -<p>Beyond lies Donnybrook, not the great Irish fair of -that name, but a fertile spot of Western Australia. A mile -before arriving there we stopped at Baxter & Prince’s siding, -2½ miles from which are their well-known sawmills, in which -are employed a large number of workmen. There are some -fine farms at Donnybrook, and the estate of the Hon. J. W. -Hackett, with its orchards and gardens, is half a mile from the -station. In these gardens all kinds of fruits, especially raspberries -and strawberries, grow in luxuriance.</p> - -<p>On account of the marvellous fertility of the ground there -are a great many applications from people wishing to establish -themselves on the land here, and take up small plots for fruit -growing. Two miles out of Donnybrook is a goldfield, which -may some day turn out to be immensely rich. Gold was first -discovered in the surface soil by some men searching for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"></a>[120]</span> -alluvial deposit. Further investigations with the miner’s -faithful prospecting-dish eventually led to the discovery of -quartz veins. There are several shafts sunk now to a great -depth, all of which have yielded a profit. Perhaps a new -Coolgardie will one day spring into existence here.</p> - -<p>Mr. Maryanski, the well-known mining expert, is largely -interested, has purchased property here, and has now gone to -Europe for the purpose of floating companies.</p> - -<p>To drive up the Preston Valley from Donnybrook in the -lovely weather was pleasant. The roads were certainly not all -that could be desired, but the forest scenery compensated for a -little jolting, and the more one travels in the West the more is -one convinced of the resources of the colony. The soil is a -rich chocolate loam, and grass and water plentiful all the year -round. Hay is principally cultivated here, as a great quantity -of chaff is required for the horses at the mills in the district.</p> - -<p>On my return to Donnybrook, rather tired with my day’s -excursion, I retired early, and after a refreshing night’s rest -started for Bridgetown in the morning. The line has only -recently been completed, and was formally opened on December 2, -1898. It must have been pretty hard work to make this -railway, for the various cuttings are in some parts so deep that -40 or 50 kegs of powder per day were often used in blasting -the hard rock. There are 178 cuttings and 204 embankments -on the line of only 42 miles, so no wonder it cost the Government -a considerable sum of money. Donnybrook is 208 feet -above the sea-level, but Needes Hill, 7 miles farther on, is 770 -feet above. After that the road drops down again to 400 feet, -then it rises again to an altitude of 1000 feet, and at this point -comes within 10 miles of the now well-known Greenbushes -Tinfield (of which more anon). A further depression of this -elevation brings it to Hester’s Brook, and then a further rise -ascends to Dalgarup Station, landing at an elevation of more -than 1000 feet, whence the line drops again to Bridgetown, -only 510 feet high in the clouds. I quickly made my way to -Warner’s Hotel, and after an excellent dinner proceeded to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"></a>[121]</span> -investigate Bridgetown and the Blackwood river. The orchards -around this district appeared to be very fine. Sir James Lee -Steere, the member for the district, gives a handsome silver -cup every year as a trophy at the annual show for the best-kept -orchard. This has been now won three years in succession -by the Messrs. Allnutt, the Grange. Their orchard -covers an area of 30 acres. Mr. Allnutt, the father of the -present owner, planted this fine orchard 30 years ago. One -can imagine what a wilderness the place must have been then, -and what perseverance has been practised to achieve such -a successful issue. The latest development is a steam sawmill -on the property for the purpose of cutting up timber and making -boxes for packing the fruit in. Every kind of fruit one can -think of is here. As well as fruit, magnificent potatoes are -grown, and often yield 15 tons to the acre. Now that the railway -touches the place, the inhabitants say that this will be the -chief agricultural centre of the south-west district. The people -seemed so genial that it was really a pleasure to converse with -them.</p> - -<p>A very beautiful drive through richly wooded hills, the tender -green grass of which was dotted here and there by clusters -of trees and covered by the perfumed golden wattle and by many -spring wild flowers—appearing between an occasional field -of newly growing wheat—brought me to Dallgarrup, the homestead -of Mr. Godfrey Hester, who has over 7000 acres of land -altogether. I found this gentleman engaged in skinning and -dressing a sheep; he had taken on a Chinese cook, and all -the other hands, objecting to the introduction of Chinese labour, -had left in a body. Consequently Mr. Hester had to turn to -and do the work himself.</p> - -<p>About a mile farther on is Blackwood Park, Mr. Gerald -Hester’s homestead, with an orchard of 23 acres, 6 of which -bear most lovely apples. There are 2000 acres, and many -cattle and sheep. The house is an old-fashioned one, having -been built 50 years ago for Mr. Hester’s father, who was the -oldest settler on the Blackwood river, and came out 52 years ago<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"></a>[122]</span> -He was the first Stipendiary Magistrate in the district. The -house is in a charming spot, and many handsome willows grow -about the running brook close by. The largest grape-vine I have -ever seen is here. Mr. Hester told me it was planted 40 years -ago by his mother. The height of this marvellous vine is 7 feet -to the first branch. There are 6 enormous branches measuring -8 inches round and averaging 100 feet long. The body of the -vine is 50 inches round. A very large trellis, which from time to -time has been added to, now takes up 39 feet of ground in -length by 54 feet in width. The kind of arbour thus formed -maybe imagined. 2064 bunches of magnificent black Hamburg -grapes, weighing over a ton, came off this vine last year, which -I am sure breaks the record of production of one vine in any of -the colonies.</p> - -<p>The drive from Bridgetown to Greenbushes Tinfield through -forest country is most enjoyable. This tinfield has of late been -richly developed. Until recently it was not thought much of, -gold-mining having deadened all other kinds of mining in the -colony. Now, however, things have taken a turn, and quite a -large settlement has sprung up, and over 2000 men are on the -field. A good town has been formed where three months -before was a dense forest, and solitude reigned supreme. -Jarrah growing on the spot, and two timber-mills being close -by, nearly all the houses are built of the handsome dark wood, -are thus much more pleasing than the usual tents and camps of -mining places, and stand out well against the tall green forest -trees. People have built very nice houses, evidently having an -eye to solid comfort, and thinking the field a permanent one.</p> - -<p>The town of Greenbushes is one long street or avenue. On -either side tower the enormous forest trees. The ring of the -axe and the crash of some of these falling giants, together with -the immense fires burning day and night for the purpose of -getting out the tremendous stumps of the trees; the energy of -the people, and the numbers of visitors constantly arriving to -see the field, make Greenbushes a lively place. The town -seems to have sprung up by magic; there are 30 stores of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"></a>[123]</span> -all descriptions, 3 hotels, the Court House Hotel being a very -comfortable one, post and telegraph offices, warden’s court, -and other public buildings.</p> - -<p>Miles and miles of the country contain rich tin. The tinfields -are on the highest point of the Darling Range, 1100 feet above -sea-level. The gullies and watercourses are very picturesque -being in the heart of the green forest. I drove down to Spring -Gully, where the men were all at work in their claims, and the -various workings were most interesting. Dumpling Gully is -the name of another part of the field.</p> - -<p>There have been some rich finds. The Cornwall Mine, on -the highest point, has been proved to carry 13½ per cent. of -lode tin. Another lode tin mine is the Yarana, which has given -good results. The lode in this mine is similar to that found in -Cornwall, England, being associated with quartz, schist and -kaolin. Tin ore is most peculiar-looking stuff. Some lumps -of it that are called “nuggets of wood tin,” weigh 30 lb. each; -another kind is like fine sand, and another like gunpowder, and -the colours range from white to red, yellow, ruby, black, grey -and brown. Some of the men have sold their claims to the -syndicates for £4000 and £5000, and gone on their way -rejoicing. I was surprised to find plenty of horses and cabs at -Greenbushes; these are, no doubt, accounted for by the distance -of the town—three miles—from the railway station, which I -passed going to Bridgetown. The cabbies were doing a roaring -trade, and the whole community seemed very well satisfied with -things in general. Gold has also been found at a depth -of 33 feet, the reef being nearly 8 inches wide, and comprised -of quartz; the formation enclosing it contains free tin worth -about 3 ounces to the dish.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"></a>[124]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</h2> - -<p>Busselton—Napoleon’s Grave—Cattle Chosen—“All aboard”—Karridale—Touring -the Forest—King Karri—The Sand Patch.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Starting from Greenbushes railway station, I made my return -journey as far as Boyanup Junction, where I changed trains for -Busselton, or, to call it by its first name, “The Vasse.” This -was one of the earliest settlements of the colony, and -is one of the most picturesque. It has a beautiful bay, -which, like Bunbury, was at one time a great whaling place. -There are about 30 fishermen there, and most of the fish caught -is sent every day by the Perth Ice Company to the metropolis. -The bay is nearly always calm, and English people say that -it resembles Bournemouth in old England. The lovely beach, -with its hard white sand, is a favourite place for cycling.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon I sallied forth to inspect the beauties of this -place and was quite delighted with this ideal town. Everything -is sweet and clean; the grass and the trees seemed to me to -have a more tender green than in other places. The beautiful -sky, with white fleecy clouds, was reflected in the sparkling -sea; dear little boats were dancing on the water, and at the -jetty, which is a mile long, two ships were moored, while -another had just spread its white wings to fly to fresh seas. -It was a perfect afternoon for fishing, which accounted for the -number of fishing-boats out.</p> - -<p>The morning sun shining in all its glory awoke me early. I -strolled down to the pier, and met some boys coming along -laden with fish that they had just caught. I wanted to buy -some, but the boys would not hear of that, and presented me<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"></a>[125]</span> -with two for my breakfast, which I took to the hotel to be -cooked, and no fish, I think, ever tasted sweeter.</p> - -<p>Looking one way from the top of the lighthouse at the end of -the jetty one saw an exquisite carpet of green stretching for miles, -white houses nestling in shrubberies near the winding river, -and sleek cows in the pasture, nearly up to their knees in the -waving grass; out at sea the fishing-boats were dancing on the -waves; a big steamer in the distance was on its way to the -East; a white-winged ship was just disappearing from sight on -the horizon; and all these, with flocks of birds soaring across -the sky, formed a picture pleasant enough to charm any -eye.</p> - -<p>There are some remarkably fine old houses about Busselton; -Fairlawn, the old Residency, for one. The immense China tree -in front of the house was a favourite spot with the late Colonel -Molloy, when resident magistrate. Under its shade he sat many -a time transacting the business of the Residency, and soldiers -of the Queen have often passed beneath its shady branches. -Colonel Molloy was with Sir John Moore’s army, and also fought -under Wellington at Waterloo. A magnificent willow-tree, -planted by the Colonel in 1862, a few years before his death, -from a slip growing over Napoleon’s grave at St. Helena, is -now 12 feet in circumference. I asked for a slip as a memento, -and it was graciously given to me. Fairlawn now belongs to -Mr. R. Gale, who has a nice dairy, with all the latest improvements, -stables and stockyards. As much as 380 lb. of butter, -from 60 cows, is made weekly by the Laval cream separator, -worked by horse-power. This part of the beautiful country -is so noted for its fine milch-cows that there would be great -scope for a large butter factory, since real nice country butter is -seldom to be obtained in Perth at any price; and I am sure -housekeepers would hail the advent of fresh pats of butter from -the country with delight.</p> - -<p>Mulberry-trees were loaded with their luscious fruit, and the -bees were hovering around and sipping the sweets from them. -Honey is very plentiful. In some orchards at Busselton there<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"></a>[126]</span> -are as many as 130 hives, yielding four tons of the sweet commodity.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. Bussell’s estate has a singular name, “Cattle Chosen,” -and it was a strange chance that named it so. Mr. Bussell, -the oldest settler in these parts, had taken up land at Augusta, -nearer the coast, but was not entirely pleased with the place, -and while driving some cattle to the Swan Settlement lost one -of his cows. On his return journey he saw cattle-tracks, and -following them up found not only the lost cow, but a beautiful -calf also, on the richest pasture he had seen. Considering the -circumstance as an omen of good luck, and delighted with the -locality, he applied to have his grant, 6000 acres, transferred -to the Vasse, and named the place “Cattle Chosen.” The -town was afterwards called Busselton out of respect to his -name.</p> - -<p>The homestead of Cattle Chosen is a pleasant place. Willows -grow over the pretty brooks and white bridges. An avenue -of palm-trees leading to the house, and an old cannon in the -garden in front of it, add romance to the scene. I was shown -some marvellous ears of wheat grown by Mr. Tanner near here, -12 inches long by 8 inches round; also cabbages 12 lb. in weight. -Tomatoes grow by the ton, and as to potatoes, 11 tons have -been taken off one patch of two acres. There is some swamp -land near Busselton which it is said would produce as many -potatoes as the whole of Ireland.</p> - -<p>In Mr. Pries’ orchard apples and pears load the trees so -heavily—some of the trees yielding 16 cases of fruit each—that -the boughs actually break beneath the weight. Wax models of -some of the pears grown here are to be seen at the office of the -Agricultural Bureau, St. George’s Terrace, Perth.</p> - -<p>The children on the beach and in the flowery meadows seemed -to revel in their play, and their healthy faces and merry laughter -proclaimed that doctors were not required. No wonder they -looked so well, with such a beautiful place to live in! The -summer temperature is never over 100°, and the winters are -mild. With the ample supply of milk, butter, eggs, fruit, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"></a>[127]</span> -other good things, the lives of these children are cast in a -pleasant place.</p> - -<p>Mr. Locke, the member for the district, has a great racing-stable -at Lockville, and several horses are training for the -coming races. I admired the beautiful creatures very much. -Several of them have already won important races. Mr. -Locke has also many dogs, which have taken prizes at various -shows; he is further well known as one of the best judges of -horseflesh in the colony, and the breeding of bloodstock is -carried on extensively on his estate.</p> - -<p>The recreation-ground is a very level ground of 20 acres, and -sport of all kind is carried on there. Near the fine new bridge -is the pretty English church, covered with ivy, with the peaceful -God’s Acre adjoining it. St. Mary’s Catholic Church, served by -that genial and benevolent parish priest, Father Tracey, is -near. Busselton, in addition to its agricultural capabilities, -offers a good opening for the timber business, and one gentleman, -Mr. Porritt, late of Queensland, who has settled there, with -the intention of developing this trade, has obtained a lease of -the Ballarat tramline, and purchased two sawmills, as well as -taking up 60,000 acres of forest land. Employment will thus -be given to a great many men, so emigrants will be welcome.</p> - -<p>Tin has been found close to Busselton, at Quindalup, and as -water is plentiful close by, profit to the district is likely to arise -from the discovery.</p> - -<p>The morning sun was shining in all its splendour over the -fair River Vasse when the driver of the four-in-hand mail-coach -cried, “All aboard!” I climbed to the box-seat, and -with a crack of the driver’s whip off we went. The day -was beautiful; the air was exhilarating, and after the 50-mile -journey to Karridale I felt inclined for a good dinner. -Luckily I had supplied myself with sandwiches and sherry, or -should not have fared too well. As the journey is nearly all -through the bush, one must not expect to find luxuries in the -way of provisions. The scenery and country we passed -through satisfied my eye and soul, but after four hours in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"></a>[128]</span> -coach I began to feel that the cravings of the material inner -woman required satisfying also, and was very glad of the -little basket that had been prepared for me. The peppermint-trees -growing by the road are very pretty. These graceful -trees grow in thickets, are very shady, and give a pungent -scent. We passed many homesteads on our way, and -right in the middle of the forest a large brick building -loomed up. I thought at first it was a church, but found it was -the Newtown Agricultural Hall. There are no people living -about it now, but I suppose there will be a settlement some -day, and Newtown is evidently taking time by the forelock. -When I saw the first karri-tree I was surprised. Without -doubt it is the handsomest kind of tree in the colony. It over-tops -all the other trees, towering to the sky, with delicate -feathery leaves, and the huge trunk, as straight as a mast, is -covered by white smooth bark. Some of these trees are -known to reach great heights—as much, indeed, as 400 feet. -Captain Pemberton Walcott is stated to have measured one -whose circumference was 60 feet. I did not see any quite as -large as that, but they certainly looked gigantic.</p> - -<p>On approaching Karridale we passed the racecourse and -cricket-ground, where several lads were at play. This spot is -singularly picturesque, and the district is one of the oldest in -the colony. (Augusta, where the trees grow to 400 feet -high, is 11 miles from Karridale, and is the site of one of -the earliest settlements in 1826, but it has never been a favourite -place, and has been abandoned several times.) The magnificent -forest trees await the woodman’s axe; life and industry are -everywhere; the people are like busy bees. I was agreeably -surprised to find such a large township. It is a regular little -colony of itself, right away in one corner of the continent of -which we are so justly proud.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"></a>[129]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus37" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus37.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">DAVIES’ KARRIDALE TIMBER STATION</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"></a>[130]</span></p> - -<p>Karridale is the headquarters of Mr. Davies’ Karri and -Jarrah Mill Company, and 18 years ago was an impenetrable -forest. Mr. Davies has 42,000 acres leased from the Government -for 42 years from 1882, and the mill was started in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"></a>[131]</span> -that year amid many difficulties that have been overcome -only by much perseverance. To-day the settlement is a -credit to Mr. Davies and to the colony, and there is a population -of 800 persons dependent on the estate for their living. -There is a good post-office, through which last year the -sum of £2340 was remitted; 3700 telegrams were sent, and -15,000 letters were posted; all the result of the energy and -enterprise of the gentleman above mentioned, who is assisted -by his handsome sons. The Government now derives a revenue -of £5000 per year from this district. Many of the employées -have pretty gardens by their cottages, which are dotted -about the bush in most picturesque fashion. The single men -have rows of cottages to themselves, and there is a large -dining-room built for their use, presided over by a good housekeeper, -and as house-rent is free, and there are no rates or -taxes to pay, this seems to me to be a paradise for the working -community. Any article that a civilised being requires is obtainable -here; you might almost say, from a needle to an -anchor. A large store adjoins the office, and although it is a -private agency, settlers in the district also can get their supplies -there. There is a nice hall for entertainments, which are -often got up by the people, and a ball is one of the frequent -recreations in the winter-time. A handsome little church has -just been built, which we observed when coming into the settlement. -Moreover, there is the unusual institution of a hospital for -horses, of which there are 200 in the place. A hospital for the -people is being built, but everybody looks so very healthy -that I think it will be almost a superfluity. Two market-gardens -and orchards give one an idea of the splendid -productivity of the soil. Ten tons of potatoes per acre, -and apple-trees that yield seven cases each, are quite usual. -There is plenty of good grass, and the bullocks of the estate, -300 in number, live entirely on it, without artificial food, -which means a large saving, and they look splendidly fat and -strong. Mr. Davies was the first man to introduce karri -timber into the markets of the world, and now the company<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"></a>[132]</span> -send supplies of it through England, China, Egypt, India, -South Africa, Mauritius, and all the eastern colonies. Melbourne -has patronised karri timber largely. For wood-blocks -it has great strength, and has been proved by British Admiralty -tests to be equal to English oak. The floors of the art gallery -and museum in Melbourne are laid with karri-wood, and in -London, Pall Mall, Piccadilly, and Regent Street have lately -been paved with karri blocks. A log cut over 40 years ago -was presented by Mr. Davies to the Kew Museum. It had -been in the ocean 30 years, and is now as good as when first -cut. Karri-wood has the further -advantage of not being -slippery, a very essential point -in wood-blocks. The karri is -an exceptionally quick-growing -tree, and when the matured -trees are cut down the young -trees shoot up at once. All the -latest improvements are to be -found at Karridale, electric -lighting and a telephone service -running to the port and to the -lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin. -Mr. Davies has a very handsome -house, built in bungalow style.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp60" id="illus38" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus38.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Felling the Giant Karri</p> -</div> - -<p>Taking a seat one morning, by invitation, in the inspection-car, -with its comfortable seats, I started for a tour through the -forest to the adjoining mills at Baranup, where a great many -men are employed, and where there is another little place, more -evidences of happiness and prosperity, and more little cottages -nestling among the trees. In the butcher’s shop I saw an -enormous block, the complete section of a tremendous tree. -Seeing a strange lady on the car, the men looked somewhat surprised, -but quite pleased. I wished to see the felling of one of -the kings of the forest, upon which four men were then engaged, -two at each end of the cross-saw. It takes six to fell one of these<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a>[135]</span> -giants, and when it is coming down one needs to stand “off the -grass,” as the saying is. When felled, the tree is marked off into -certain lengths and severed into so many logs, then numbers of -horses and bullocks appear on the scene and drag the logs to the -nearest landing, then they are put into the truck and borne off to -the mill. At Baranup I was to see the King Karri that I had -heard about before coming, and now, when I saw it, I was -satisfied that, although not yet 400 feet high, it is a king of the -forest; indeed, this giant tree is the largest on indisputable -record in Western Australia. It stands in its great majesty in -one of the most picturesque spots of the colony. Its gnarled -and weather-beaten roots of immense size show that it must be -of great age. Its dimensions were given to me by Mr. Davies, -and are as follows:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>Girth</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td colspan="3">above ground</td> - <td class="tdr">30</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - <td>in.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td>in.</td> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td class="tdr">28</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>in.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td class="tdr">132</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - <td>in.</td> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td class="tdr">20</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">7</td> - <td>in.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Height to</td> - <td colspan="3">top of branches</td> - <td class="tdr">342</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td>in.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3"><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td colspan="3">first fork</td> - <td class="tdr">146</td> - <td>ft.</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td>in.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>This tree would make 146 loads of timber and cut up into -3000 sleepers, enough to lay a mile and a half of railway. Around -here are many more tremendous giant trees awaiting the woodman’s -axe. The demand for Western Australia hardwood is -now far greater than the mills can at present supply.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"></a>[133]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus39" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus39.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">THE SAND PATCH</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"></a>[134]</span></p> - -<p>Hamelin Harbour was another surprise. Next morning I -proceeded on an excursion to that place, the train taking a -quantity of wood-blocks for Melbourne streets. A mile and a -half on our journey we arrived at the top of Hamelin Hill. A -perfect panorama lay around us; the forest was at our back, -while in front lay the Southern Ocean in all its grandeur, with -little bays and headlands falling into its depths. The pier at -Hamelin Bay, which is seen in the distance, a mile and a half off, -is 1800 feet long. As we approached the bay, the homes of the -people employed there and a charming little lake at the bottom of -the valley, with Mr. Davies yacht and several pretty boats lying -at rest on its placid bosom, added fresh charm to the scene.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"></a>[136]</span> -Arrived at Hamelin Bay, I took a walk down the long jetty, and -the salt seabreeze from both Indian and Southern Oceans fanned -my cheeks with a breath so fresh and bracing that I almost felt -as if I had wings to my feet. Two large vessels were being -loaded; the men seemed to be vying with each other in the -effort to do the most work. Two very large and rather dangerous-looking -rocks are not far off the jetty. I think one is -called Mushroom Rock, and certainly it looks more like a huge -mushroom than anything else but a rock. The other is Peak -Rock. At one of the cottages the wife of one of the men was -most hospitable, and made me a nice cup of tea and some toast, -which I enjoyed after my early morning’s start.</p> - -<p>On my return to Karridale, having some time to spare, I -drove out about a mile to see the Sand Patch, which is a most -peculiar place. It is a tremendous sandhill 100 feet high, a -few miles from the sea, and has slowly moved inland a few -inches every year. Tops of trees may be seen over the summit, -looking like bushes. It is 2 miles wide, and can be seen a long -way off at sea. Many sea-captains take their bearings from it. -An attempt has been made to arrest its march by planting -70,000 grass roots in the direction it takes, so as to stop its -advance, but whether the attempt will succeed will only be -proved by time.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"></a>[137]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</h2> - -<p class="center">Deepdene Caves—Margaret Caves—A Welcome Lunch—Cape -Leeuwin.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The Deepdene Caves were my next place of call, Mr. Bruce -kindly driving a party of us to them, and explaining everything -to us in a most agreeable fashion. I enjoyed the drive so much -that I was almost sorry to arrive. The approach to the caves -is through a deep dell, where there is a brook, called Turner’s -Brook. A very quaint old house stood on a slope, and the high -cliffs in the distance looked picturesque. But I could see no sign -of a cave, and when we came to a stop I was still looking for one. -However, Mr. Bruce soon stopped the trap, and we got out and -were guided by him through some dense bush up the hill until -we came to a yawning gulf, like a gigantic chasm. I own to -feeling a desire to turn back, without seeing the caves at all, so -forbidding did the approach look, but pride came to the rescue. -It would never do to say I was afraid, so assuming a valour, -though I had it not, I followed my guides, who had now lit candles -and also armed themselves with bundles of blackboy rushes. -We entered the cavern, and I found the chasm not so terrible as -I had anticipated. The first large gallery once had a number of -fine stalactites, but some vandals have torn them away. The -path now became very steep, and I had to cling to jutting -stalactites. It was very dark, the candles had gone out, and -the vapours we breathed were not exactly refreshing; but I -had to go on—on—on. I was not sorry when my friends set -light to the friendly blackboys and lightened the darkness. -We were now in a splendid hall, roofed with icicles. There -was an almost perfect opera-box, with lace curtains, carved<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"></a>[138]</span> -arm-rest, pillars, and everything complete. The ground -sounded rather hollow; I did not feel comfortable, so we -moved on to another vast cavern, called the King’s Council -Chamber. It was a grand sight. The light, of course, was -imperfect, as the cave is of enormous size, fully 100 feet high. -The stalactites hang from the domed roof like huge crystal -lights, and shadows play about the walls, which look as if -festooned with lovely lace. Great seats seem to fill the cavern -in the middle. One could almost imagine a king and queen -holding court there, with all their attendants, and being -suddenly turned to marble. It was all very grand, but I felt -glad when I was out in God’s sunshine again, with the blue -sky over my head and the blue sea at my feet. Darkness -and gloom, however grand, do not forcibly appeal to me.</p> - -<p>Various other beautiful caves have been discovered comparatively -recently, and named the Margaret Caves, in compliment -to Lady Forrest.</p> - -<p>No beaver ever made a more artful concealment of the -entrance to his nest than the lip of the Wallcliffe Cave. Part -some peppermints, push aside the flowing fronds of ferns and -bend low, almost on all-fours, creep slowly for 30 feet, eyes bent -to ground, and then, what a transformation scene! The fairy -grotto of a pantomime, the lustrous lair of the King of Jewels -in the Arabian Nights—these are the only similes that give -even a prosaic idea of it. A circular chamber, richly bedecked -by gleaming white stalactites, with mammoth bunches of grapes, -fleecy wefts apparently as soft as lambs-wool, but solid as -marble, and—upspringing from the floor of the chamber, as if -greedy to clutch the fruit, yet frozen in making the grasp—a -monstrous hand several feet long—these are just hints of what -we see.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"></a>[139]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus40" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus40.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">A WESTERN AUSTRALIAN CAVE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"></a>[140]</span></p> - -<p>The Warrawerrie or Blackboy Hollow Cave is about 2 miles -south of Wallcliffe, and is a mantrap for the unwary, for if -you fall in instead of using the ladder that the discoverer (Mr. -John Bussell) made in order to sound his find, and was -thoughtful enough to leave behind him, you drop 15 feet. This<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"></a>[141]</span> -vertical hole will not take in any one of very round proportions. -So rough and high are the boulders that we scrambled over -on the floor of this cave by the dim, flickering light of a -candle, that we called it “Spion Kop.” It was more than -worth the scramble, however. There is another chamber of -this cave that has never been entered. A broken column, -apparently cut from Italian marble, as pure as alabaster, would -make a noble monument for a patriot. There are also semi-transparent -shields which look like snow-white tapestry from -an Indian loom, but which touch shows to be hard as flint.</p> - -<p>While all the caves we saw are worth many times the -journey, the most beautiful is, in my opinion, that known -as Doodjijup, a mile south of Blackboy Hollow, and 100 feet -above the slanderously entitled “Devil’s Pool.” A lady could -go through this cave without soiling her dress. You enter -this lovely “bower” from the side of a high limestone ridge and -the commanding situation allows a pretty prospect of water -and lea, with the shimmering streak of the Doodjijup brook in -the foreground. The access to the cave is rather steep and -somewhat rugged, but when once the inlet is gained the labour -is rewarded, and the visitor can move at ease and admire the -terraces, the columns like the pipes of a cathedral organ, and -the pendants that glow like the stars of night in the three -chambers of this wondrous arcade.</p> - -<p>Nearly 3 miles south there is a descent of about 100 feet, -first through an enormous pit like the excavation of a quarry, -and then by the side of a limestone cliff, when the “door” of -Calgadup Cave is disclosed. The floor of this cave is moist -enough to show that it is the bed of a subterranean creek; it is -about 70 feet across. The chamber sides are hung with many -stalactites of myriad shapes and colours under the rays of our -artificial light. What would be taken in a lady’s boudoir for a -very beautiful opera-cloak of swansdown thrown over the top of -a low pillar stands out in the foreground. This is a stalagmite -“growing” upwards, while the stalactite is formed downwards -like the tendrils or fruit of a vine. Here, too, in my opinion, is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"></a>[142]</span> -the gem of all the caves, the suspended dome, the delicate -tracery of whose splendid and fantastic fretwork hangs in mid-air, -held by almost gossamer crystalline threads.</p> - -<p>A running stream which flows over the bed of Crystal Cave, -half a mile south of Nannup Caves, gives it its name. This cave, -of sandstone formation, is almost a ruin owing to the ravages of -marauders and the falling of karri timber overhead, which have -wrought havoc among its former grandeur. Ascending some 50 -or 60 feet another vast chamber is entered; the dome-shaped -roof that is set off by colonnades is cracked, and to all -appearance unsafe. Already this season, although there are -few facilities for visiting the caves or for enjoying the fishing -and shooting of Hardy’s Inlet in the cool climate by the seaside, -about 70 goldfield visitors have equipped themselves at -special expense for the tour, which, I understand, they found -highly beneficial, interesting and enjoyable.</p> - -<p>From the caves we returned to Karridale, and during the -pleasant drive I somewhat recovered from the fatigue of so much -cave clambering. The next morning early I was fortunate in -getting a seat in a buggy to Cape Leeuwin, the first Australian -land sighted by mail-boats coming from England, and the last -seen by those that leave for the dear homeland. I was -anxious to see this place and to go up the famous lighthouse. -So off we went, bidding a regretful farewell to the -hospitable people of Karridale. We had a drive of 16 miles -before us, but I am never so happy as when seated behind -a good pair of horses and spinning merrily along. I feel -sure that, though thousands of people have seen the cape -and lighthouse from the sea, very few have been so fortunate -as I was in being able to visit it by land. So I felt particularly -well pleased with myself and my trip through the west that -day. As we drove along for 7 miles nothing particular was -to be seen, except perhaps that the forest vegetation seemed to -grow more luxuriantly than ever, and in greater variety; I -noticed several kind of trees that I had not seen in other parts. -Then we got occasional gleams of water shining through the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"></a>[143]</span> -foliage, and the hills around loomed in grandeur to the sky. The -trees seemed to become smaller as we went along; that was -because we were near the coast. A few miles farther on a pretty -house on the banks of a lovely broad sheet of water, the Blackwood -estuary, came into view. A lady, seeing us driving along, -came out to meet us, and cordially invited us into the house -to partake of refreshments in the shape of fruit and fresh milk -with hot scones, which had just been baked for the family -lunch, and of which we had arrived in time to partake. The -horses were glad of a little breathing-time, during which I -looked round at the scene before me. Over the broad -sheet of placid water wild ducks and swans were dotted. -A fisherman had just come up with a haul of fish, the finest -whiting I have seen for some time, and a tremendous -schnapper. In the distance could be seen the white sandy -bar, with its long white breakers stretching out into the -depths of the ocean beyond. What an ideal spot for a sportsman, -a convalescent, or a pair of honeymooners, so quiet, so -peaceful, so beautiful! Mr. Ellis has lived in this place -for years, and will tell you how, 50 years ago, food was almost -unobtainable, and American whalers were looked to for nearly -all supplies. It is most interesting to talk to this gentleman. -Governor Broome, Governor Weld, and Sir Gerard Smith -(the late Governor), have visited this place, and enjoyed Mr. -Ellis’s hospitality. We soon passed through the old and once -ill-fated settlement of Augusta, and I wondered why fate was -so unkind to such a charming spot, especially as there is such -a natural harbour as Flinders Bay close by. On we went and -reached Point Matthew. Now we were near the corner where -two great oceans meet. On we drove to the edge of the -peninsula and soon arrived at Cape Leeuwin, and its fine -lighthouse. In 1867 the coast east of Cape Leeuwin was -called Nuyts Land from a passenger on board the <i>Guilde -Zeepart</i>, or Good Shepherd, on her voyage to Japan. Cape -Leeuwin, or Lioness, was so named in 1822, after the vessel -from which it was first seen, or, as others say, because the cape<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"></a>[144]</span> -standing at the corner of the two oceans, with the breakers -dashing round, seemed like a lioness defending her home. Be -this as it may, I came here, and was delighted. Years ago, -during a heavy storm, I was a passenger in a sailing barque -loaded with pearl shell that was blown out to sea 600 miles -beyond Cape Leeuwin, but we safely weathered the storm and -I live to tell the tale. Since that time I have always had strong -recollections of this particular cape.</p> - -<p>As we drove up the lighthouse stood before us like a -sentinel guarding the seas. We were now on that corner of -our continent where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. -Right on the southern point at the foot of the high bare -hills, and 700 feet above the sea, stands the white lighthouse -and its shining dome, the building of which was -an event of national importance. It was a solemn and -magnificent sight. To-day the sea was beautifully calm, but -sometimes the breakers roar and lash the strong lighthouse -in their fury; then mariners have to beware of the -Lioness and to keep at a safe and civil distance. The base is 70 -feet above high water-mark, the foundations are deep down to -bed rock, 23 feet. The building was erected by Messrs. Davies -and Wishart, and cost £6000, exclusive of the dome and light. -The handsome white stone of which it is built was all quarried -half a mile away. The walls are 7 feet in thickness on the -ground-floor. To get to the top we had to mount a spiral iron -staircase, broken at intervals by 7 floors. These breaks give one -time to breathe and comment on the peculiar sensation of -mounting to the top of a lighthouse; strange it is certainly, but -I would not on any account have missed it. A heavy iron column -goes down the centre to hold the chain and the three-quarters -of a ton weight propelling the clockwork that causes the light -to revolve. It takes 7 gallons of oil each night to keep this -burning. Mr. Tattersall, the head keeper, was most attentive -and kind in explaining all this to me. On the fifth floor is the -telephone connected with the men’s quarters and with the -Karridale Post Office, from which all messages are forwarded<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"></a>[147]</span> -by telegraph. Here also observations are taken every two -hours and recorded. Down the wall there is a lightning conductor. -The lighting apparatus is on the sixth floor, and is a -wonderful piece of mechanical work. The operative power is -clockwork, and the light reflected is equal to 250,000 candles. -The flash is sighted fully 30 miles out from land on a clear -night. Are not the improvements in lighthouses since the -days when little Grace Darling stood on her bible to reach the -lamp that lighted the shipwrecked mariners to safety truly -wonderful?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"></a>[145]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus41" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus41.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">LIGHTHOUSE (OLD AND NEW)</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"></a>[146]</span></p> - -<p>I must confess to feeling very giddy in the head when -I stepped on the balcony outside the dome, but it was the -grandest sight of my tour. On the north side was Hamelin -Bay, on the east the mouth of the beautiful Blackwood, and -the many little islands, reefs and rocks, lying at our feet; -also Cumberland Island; while away on the land side stretches -the vast forest with its millions of giant trees, combining to -form a picture not easily forgotten.</p> - -<p>The lighthouse-keepers, of whom there are six, work four -hours each and are then relieved. They report every ship that -passes, and wind up the clockwork weights every hour. -Coming down to <i>terra firma</i> again, and before leaving this grand -piece of man’s work, I read the following inscription on a huge -block of stone: “Foundation-stone laid by Sir John Forrest, -Premier of the Colony, 13th December 1895.” And on the -other side: “Dedicated to the World’s Mariners, 10th December -1896.”</p> - -<p>Outside are some comfortable-looking stone cottages, where -the lighthouse-keepers live. My only feeling of regret as I left -was that Leeuwin Lighthouse is not more accessible, so that -many people could take the same enjoyable tour that I had -taken; but time may change even this cape’s inaccessibility.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"></a>[148]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</h2> - -<p>Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The -Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat -Crop—The Show.</p> - -</div> - -<p>There is without doubt a great field in Western Australia for -workers who will settle on the land and cultivate it. Newcastle -is a little town, nestling at the foot of hills and beautifully -situated near the Avon river. It is a splendid farming district; -the soil will grow almost everything. I saw some magnificent -oranges and vegetables. The cattle are as fat and -sleek as can be. Rain had been falling when I was there, and -now the sun was shining and a beautiful rainbow rose over -the hills. The pink everlasting flowers—acres of them—surrounded -by the green grass, the pretty winding river, the white -bridges and long good roads made up a very pleasant picture. -There is plenty of good land around here waiting to be taken -up and utilised. Newcastle is one of the oldest Westralian -towns, and the roads and bridges were nearly all made by -convict labour in days gone by. There is a great quantity of -stone lying about, and granite is obtainable in large quantities -a little way off. There are vineyards and orchards, and an -elderly woman at the Clackline Junction Station seemed to -be doing a good trade with an enormous basket of splendid -oranges and bunches of pink everlasting flowers. She came -across the meadows and joined the train at Delmore on the way -to Newcastle a boy helping her with the big basket of oranges -just gathered from the trees. She told me she came to meet -all the trains and invariably did good business.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"></a>[149]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus42" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus42.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">NEWCASTLE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"></a>[150]</span></p> - -<p>Gold was found about here in 1887 by Mr. Glass, of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"></a>[151]</span> -Mugakine, who found a piece weighing 11 grains while digging -a well. The ground about the hills is very rocky, but the flats -are fertile and favourable for fruit-trees and vines, and there -is plenty of water in ponds; Mr. Clarkson, in the early days, -found sandstone ranges rising 1000 feet; small rivers fall -between these ranges into the sea.</p> - -<p>New Norcia, the Benedictine’s Mission settlement, is situated -on the Victoria plains, about 50 miles from Newcastle by road, -and 80 miles to the north of Perth. You can also go to New -Norcia by taking the train to Mogumbur on the Cue line, -and thence driving 15 miles to New Norcia. Here the late -good Bishop Salvado, laboured amongst the aboriginals for -over half a century, and died at over 85. The religious -community numbers about 60 monks, most of whom are -Spanish. The Abbey is called Abbey Nullias, and there are -a cruciform church of stone, a monastery, and 51 other buildings. -Over 1000 acres of land are cleared and fenced, 800 -are under cultivation, and 150 aboriginals are clothed and -educated by the monks. The object of these good men of the -Mission is to civilise and christianise the natives. Bishop -Salvado describes his first interview with the aboriginals -thus: “I tried to begin a conversation by signs with these -poor Australians, so hideous to view, though mild and almost -timid; but all that they would say was ‘Maragna’ (food).” In -1846, Father Salvado and Father Serra, with a few catechists, -were guided by some natives to the site which is now called -New Norcia. Fifty acres of land had been granted them by -the Colonial Government, and thus was laid the foundation of -this now well-known and flourishing settlement. In 1848 the -first R.C. Bishop of Perth, Dr. Brady, sent Father Serra to -Europe to obtain subscriptions and more missionaries for New -Norcia, and 1250 acres of land were purchased by him with -the collections obtained in this way from Europe. In 1849 -Father Salvado went to Europe, taking with him two native -Christian boys. There he collected large sums of money, and -on his return a number of missionaries, competent in agriculture<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"></a>[152]</span> -and trade, returned with him, thus giving new life to the -Mission, where they built a chapel, cottages, corn and -granary mills, wooden houses, workshops, and quarters for -natives. The land was soon cleared by these good and energetic -men, assisted by the aborigines whom they had befriended, -and to-day one can look around the Mission and see -happiness, prosperity, and contentment on all sides. All the -aborigines now there are civilised, but, for years before they -became so, they looked on the Bishop as a god who possessed -superhuman knowledge, especially in doctoring the sick. -One native whom he had relieved leaped and danced, and -shouted war-cries, and said: “Father, when you die I shall be -so sorry that I shall kill, not only one man of the enemy’s -tribe, but six kangaroo-hunters, to show everybody the love -I have for you.” Many years have passed away, and if you -now visit New Norcia you will see 1000 acres of fields, -stocked with sheep and cattle; a most prosperous agricultural -settlement; corn in abundance; barley, hay, vegetables, -tobacco, and acres of vineyard, from which a wine, said by those -who have sampled it to be excellent, is made. Fine olives are -grown; olive oil, pure and clear, is made; candied almonds, -figs, raisins, grapes, and apples are in profusion. The -Bishop’s only luxury was snuff, grown at the Mission, which -is very aromatic and provocative of much sneezing. Almost -everything required and used is made and produced on the -spot. The aborigines learn quickly and are most devout -Christians. The Mission has a brass band of natives, who -have been well trained, and their efforts are most pleasing.</p> - -<p>Bishop Salvado was in Perth a few months ago, and received -a warm welcome from all creeds and classes; he was then on -his way to Rome, in which city he recently passed away.</p> - -<p>Progressive Northam, the gateway of the goldfields, in the -lovely Avon Valley, was the scene of my next visit. The -green undulating fields through which I passed in the train on -my approach to Northam showed a perfect blaze of wild -flowers in every spot where there was room for them to spring<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"></a>[153]</span> -between the well-cultivated farm lands. The rich soil of this -beautiful valley is quite different from the deep sandy soil near -the coast, or from the loam and ironstone of the ranges of the -Darling. Quantities of water are always obtainable by shallow -sinking, should other supplies fail. The fat cattle always seem -to be waiting to accumulate wealth for their owners, and the comfortable-looking -farmhouses impress one with the idea of solid -comfort within. Northam has a population of 2000 people, is -increasing fast, and prospering more than any other agricultural -district in Western Australia; and being the starting-point of -the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, Mount Malcolm and Mount -Margaret goldfields, is really the threshold of the fields, as well -as the great centre of the agricultural industry in this part of -the colony.</p> - -<p>A large staff of railway men is employed in the locomotive -department, over 400 men being paid every fortnight at -Northam. The railway platform is half a mile long, and I -believe a magnificent railway station will shortly further improve -the town.</p> - -<p>Northam has gone ahead with gigantic strides. On my first -visit, a little over two years ago, it was a very small place indeed, -in fact two places, as I found to my sorrow when I got -out of the train at the wrong station (there are both East and -West Northam) and had to walk a mile and a half up a desolate -country road to get to my destination. Now houses, shops, -banks, &c., are built nearly all along that road, and omnibuses -ply from one end of the town to the other. Northam bids fair to -become one of the most important towns in Western Australia.</p> - -<p>There are some charming estates about here, notably that of -the Hon. George Throssell, late Commissioner of Crown Lands, -and now Premier since Sir John Forrest relinquished office. -Mr. Throssell might almost be described as the father of -Northam. He has resided in what he so poetically describes -as his lovely valley home for 36 years, and it is chiefly due to -his strenuous exertions, the devotion of his energies to its -development, and his manly spirit of help to all, that Northam<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"></a>[154]</span> -is what it is to-day. Mr. Throssell goes home to Northam -after his week’s official work every Friday and remains until -Tuesday in the company of his wife and numerous and -happy family of sons, daughters, and grandchildren. This -grand old man has a large and important business in -Northam in conjunction with Mr. Stewart, and branches in -different parts of the colony as well. The machinery stores -are well worth inspection. Every possible kind of English -and American machinery for tilling the soil is here to be -seen. The drill and fertiliser now coming into use make farming -a pastime and pleasure, instead of the weariness and hard -work of past ages. With these new implements of agriculture, -600 acres of land can be drilled with only 20 lb. of wheat to -the acre, in place of 75 lb., as in olden days.</p> - -<p>Many new implements were going out to the Jenapullen -ploughing-match, a few miles away, for trial that day; so, availing -myself of the offer of a drive there, I started off to see this -match. The pastoral country appeared very thriving as we -drove along by the beautiful River Avon, and the richness of the -soil gave ample promise of the harvest to come. Bush flowers -were growing all round, native grasses were flourishing in wild -luxuriance, healthy green crops were waving in the gentle -breeze, giving promise of a most abundant yield and adding -beauty to the surrounding scene.</p> - -<p>On arrival at the ploughing-field, I found many kinds of -entertainments going on as well as the ploughing, which I was -sure was very splendid, although I did not understand the -art. There was a fine collection of vegetables, bread, butter, -fruit, and many other things; also some very splendid horses, -bred in the district. After the ploughing-match was over, the -folks amused themselves with jumping, running, and pony -races. Every one looked prosperous, happy and contented, and -no doubt was so, for there are many well established farmers -in this fertile district, who long ago secured for themselves -a position of independence.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"></a>[155]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus43" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus43.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">AVON RIVER</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"></a>[156]</span></p> - -<p>What a future lies before this wheat-growing district!<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"></a>[157]</span> -One of the most prominent townsmen of Northam says that -more wheat has been produced there than in any other part of -the colony. Many farmers are also thinking of raising pigs, -to be turned into the toothsome bacon. Mr. Throssell told me -that there are big openings for bacon-curing, as the quantity -of bacon and ham imported to Western Australia last year was -very large.</p> - -<p>The Department of Agriculture is doing good work, and -experts are sent out into the different farming districts to teach -the benefits of mixed farming to persons not already acquainted -with them, and any one who wants advice on the management -of vineyards, orchards and farms can, by writing to the Department, -have an expert sent at once.</p> - -<p>There is also scope for the establishment of a butter and -cheese factory here. This valley of the Avon is an ideal spot -for a large dairy, and might have thousands of sleek cows -grazing on the rich pastures, and hundreds of rosy-cheeked -dairymaids turning sweet cream into butter and cheese for the -dusty goldseekers.</p> - -<p>Northam has a fine town hall, some handsome churches, a -convent, magnificent post-office, and many beautiful mansions -and villas standing in fine grounds with nice gardens. Many -of the favourite English flowers flourish here. Roses, honeysuckle, -geraniums, and mignonette grow very fine in this soil, -and the flowers indigenous to the colony bloom in sweet and -infinite variety. The splendour of Western Australian flowers -cannot be imagined by those who have not seen it. Their -dainty delicate odours are unsurpassable, and if people in other -lands only knew of our glorious wealth of flowers, I am sure -they would be anxious to obtain seeds and cultivate the lovely -blossoms.</p> - -<p>Coming from one of the splendid homesteads around Northam, -I passed a wheatfield in the valley that extended farther than -my eye could reach. Oats grow to perfection. One farmer -in the valley, who has a field of 90 acres, last year harvested -as much as 36 bushels to the acre; barley is also grown with -great success.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"></a>[158]</span></p> - -<p>Our young country has a chance of great and lasting prosperity -for population increases and new people settle on the rich -lands to cultivate them. Mr. Throssell says: “We look forward -to seeing our harbour filled with ships laden with not only -gold, timber, pearl shell and wool products of the colony, but -also with golden grain, wine and fruit.” Our Agent-General -in London, Sir E. Wittenoom, recently said at a dinner in -Paris: “There is something fascinating in the phenomena -of the rise of this new colony of Western Australia, which 10 -years ago, with an area equal to nearly half that of Europe, had -only the population of the Isle of Man. Gold reefs were discovered, -and the population advanced with great strides in less -than 4 years from 50,000 to 186,000.”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"></a>[159]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus44" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus44.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</h2> - -<p>Southern Cross—Early Discoveries of Gold—Heavy Tramps—Walking -on Gold—Bayley’s Reward—Fabulous Finds—The Potato -Ground—Bayley’s Death—The 90-Mile—The Treasure House—Great -Boulder Find—The Londonderry.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Lake Polaris, or Southern Cross, was so called by the Phœnix -party of prospectors, who, owing to an accidental discovery of -gold by Mr. Ansty at Mugakine in 1887, determined thoroughly -to prospect the country from Newcastle and the Yilgarn hills. -Their first discovery of payable reefs was named Golden -Valley, and, as would be supposed from the name, the reefs -were rich. Travelling by night, guided by the Southern Cross, -the party went on, and 30 miles farther on found reefs still -richer on the site of what is now called Southern Cross. -Two of the prospectors were eventually lost in the Bush, and -their mates, taking a black fellow for tracking, followed their -tracks, mostly in circles, for 30 miles, and at last found the -two poor fellows dead, doubtless from thirst, as they were -without clothing, which is always a sign of that terrible -death.</p> - -<p>Southern Cross was destined to become in a short time a -most important place in Australian history, although it did not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"></a>[160]</span> -become the talk of the world, as Coolgardie afterwards did. -It was from Southern Cross that the news of the magnificent -discovery of Bayley’s Reward and the other rich finds at Coolgardie -came. From the time when Mr. Colreavy, of the Phœnix -party, first found Golden Valley until now, the finds of gold on -the Coolgardie goldfields have been without parallel in Australian -history. Fraser’s Mine, Southern Cross, paid the first -dividend received from any mine in Western Australia. -Captain Oats, one of the most genial men in the West, is the -legal manager for Fraser’s Mine.</p> - -<p>When the train came to a stop on our arrival at the Cross, -as it is now usually called, I must confess that I was not -much attracted by the appearance of the place, for anything -more dreary-looking one could not well see. Imagine a sandy -desert, with here and there a stunted-looking tree, a string of -camels, with Afghan guides, some bare-looking houses, and -a few mines with poppet-heads standing out like crosses against -the sky. That is Southern Cross. The train stops at 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> for -40 minutes for breakfast, and, after travelling from five o’clock -the previous night, one feels inclined for hot coffee at least. I -hurried across to the hotel, and after partaking of a really excellent -breakfast, felt a little more friendly to the place, and had my -luggage taken off the train with the intention of stopping here -a day to make inquiries. After a two-hours rest I started off to -see Fraser’s Mine, and then found that I had to walk half a -mile in order to reach the town, the part where the hotel is -being only the railway portion of it. Across flat uninteresting -ground affording very scanty herbage to a few grazing goats, I -came at last to the town proper, which is one fairly long -street and two cross ones, of little houses and shops. I -here presented my letter of introduction to the mayor, who, -with his wife, was most hospitable; and, in fact, I found that, -in spite of the dreary-looking surroundings, Southern Cross was -not a bad place after all, and that there were a great many nice -genial people living there. Fraser’s Mine is another two miles -on. Nothing much is to be seen, but close to the mine is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"></a>[161]</span> -small empty house. It is the house formerly inhabited by the -notorious Deeming (who murdered and cemented three wives -and four children), in which he had stored the cement -in readiness for a new grave for his next wife when he was -stopped by his arrest. I looked inside with a kind of morbid -interest, remembering well the stir there was in Melbourne -at the time when this terrible man committed his last awful -crime.</p> - -<p>When one thinks of the hardships people had to endure when -gold was first discovered in this desert, and when water was -scarce and food still more so, one feels that they deserved all the -money and gold they got.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It then took four days to get to the -Cross from York and Northam, and the Bush roads were terrible. -One party of fifty Victorian miners started from Albany on -foot, on what was known as Holland’s Track, and after undergoing -terrible privations, 35 of them reached the Cross in safety. -Holland’s Track is so called from the following circumstances: -John Holland and party set out from Brown Hill, 103 miles -from Albany, to reach Coolgardie <i>viâ</i> Southern Cross, the distance -being nearly 350 miles. They paid £50 for three horses -and a conveyance. Their road was through an almost impenetrable -bush. Holland’s way of finding the road was to ride ahead, -the team having instructions to follow his tracks. He then -made observations from the highest points, and was enabled to -judge many miles ahead the nature of the country before him -and the probable whereabouts of water. In this respect he -was singularly successful. He would then take his bearings, -retrace his tracks, and lead the team in as direct a line as possible -to the place. The length of the track cut was 230 miles. -The greatest portion of this was through country unexplored, -and 130 miles were traversed without encountering tracks of -any description, save that of an occasional emu. There -were many high granite rocks in the country, one of such -height and extent—200 feet—that they named it King Rock.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"></a>[162]</span> -On investigation a splendid supply of water was found on the -top of this, and at the base there is a salt-water lake 2 miles in -circumference.</p> - -<p>Another party started overland from Adelaide to the Western -Australian goldfields, and went through hardships that can be -better imagined than described. The course taken was from Port -Augusta along the west coast to Israelite Bay, thence to Fraser -Range and Southern Cross. The track ran through dense -forests and sand plains, where little exists save stunted herbage, -which not even a camel could eat, every bush on these plains -being armed with thorns. The party camped about 6 miles -from Southern Cross on the only decent patch of pasture for -100 miles.</p> - -<p>A Bendigo miner, with his party, started from Narrogin, -beyond Broome Hill, for Southern Cross. After going 15 miles -they got bogged twice on the road, the horses being in the -bog to their knees and the dray to the axle. The second -time the men had to carry all their things on their backs. -Next day they had to cut away with an axe big trees that had -fallen across the track. Another day they camped 100 miles -from the Cross, and on getting up early found the horses -gone. After a long search of 15 miles, during which time -they had nothing to eat, they finally found them. Next -day the party set out again, and after 25 miles the axle -broke and the dray became a total wreck; they then waited -coming events, and luckily a teamster came along and -took some of their things. The rest they had to leave -behind. They arrived at Southern Cross after three weeks -travelling.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"></a>[163]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus45" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus45.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">TEAMS RETURNED TO SOUTHERN CROSS FROM COOLGARDIE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"></a>[164]</span></p> - -<p>These are a few of the experiences of the early days of the -Golden West. After such experiences Southern Cross, no -doubt, seemed an oasis in the desert. Who will say these -poor men did not deserve success? I truly hope they got it. -It was five years after the discovery of Southern Cross that -Coolgardie was discovered by Arthur Bayley, who had formerly -been working at the Cross, but afterwards went to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"></a>[165]</span> -Nannine and took 1000 ounces of gold from a claim there; then -returned to the Southern Cross in 1892, started from that place -prospecting, eventually finding Coolgardie.</p> - -<p>People who were here in 1892 tell me that when the news came -of Bayley’s find the excitement was indescribable. Southern -Cross was almost deserted. Coolgardie lies about 120 miles -from the Cross, and along the track were to be seen men in -scores, using every means of locomotion conceivable. Some -were lucky enough to get teamsters to carry their swags; -others had to carry them on their backs; others, again, had -pack-horses; some had what is called a “one-wheeler” cart. -The wheel is fixed underneath, in the centre is a frame or -miniature platform, on which the goods and swags are placed; -four men take hold, one at each corner, and a start is made. -One enterprising man pushed in front of him an ordinary beer -cask, which he had rigged up to resemble a miniature road-roller. -His goods were on top and he was in the shafts. Other adventurous -spirits had their goods in wheelbarrows, which they -drove through the heavy sand. Camels sometimes crossed as -much as 22 miles of sand plain at a stretch, getting one meal at -the end. As pack-camels only travel at the rate of 2½ miles an -hour, such a journey would occupy the whole of the daylight, -then the Afghan drivers would let the camels lie down until the -moon rose; then on again in search of food, until at 7 in the -morning perhaps they were lucky enough to find some salt-bush -on the shores of a salt lake.</p> - -<p>At the stores at Southern Cross in those days you would see -all sorts and conditions of men coming for their provisions. -New chums with white soft hands would sometimes appear on -their way to the goldfields. Those poor hands would look -very different after their owners had put in a month on the -burning sands of the mines.</p> - -<p>The railway to Coolgardie from Southern Cross was begun -in 1894 and opened soon afterwards.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus46" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus46.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Bakery and Miners’ Camp, Southern Cross</p> -</div> - -<p>It was with feelings of curiosity that I viewed the desert-looking -country as the train approached the world-famed place.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"></a>[166]</span> -It is nearly always in waste, arid, and uninteresting places that -gold is found. As the train drew up at the spacious station -and I stepped out on to the wide platforms, where some -hundreds of people were waiting, I looked round me and -said to myself: “Am I really at the famous Coolgardie at -last, the Queen Gold City of the West?” I took a cab—dozens -of them were waiting—and drove to Summers’ -Hotel, where apartments had been reserved for me, and -with a sigh of contentment gave myself up to the thought -of thoroughly inspecting this famed place. After a very good -dinner, with white-waistcoated waiters in attendance, and with -every elegance and comfort that could be suggested, I took my -coffee on the broad balcony overlooking Bayley Street. I -found several people who were here in the early days, and who -gave me all the information I desired about the past and the -present. The first thing that struck me in Coolgardie was, -“What a splendid lot of men there are here!” They were, -indeed, unusually tall, stalwart, and good-looking. And why not? -The pick of the Australian colonies, the flower of our manhood, -were here seeking for gold. Next I was struck by the fine wide -streets, lit with electric light, the handsome buildings, and, lastly, -the beautiful horses to be seen in cabs or carts, or ridden by -horsemen. It is wonderful to view this city of the Golden West<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"></a>[167]</span> -which was so recently a desert of sand, mulga-trees, and scrub, -where an occasional emu or kangaroo was monarch of all he -surveyed; where Sir John Forrest and his party of explorers -twice camped, little dreaming of the wealth of gold lying beneath -their feet.</p> - -<p>The facts about the finding of Coolgardie are thus given in -Mr. Bayley’s own narrative: “One morning before breakfast, -while going after horses, I picked up a nugget weighing -half an ounce, and before dinner found 20 more ounces in -the same way. We had left Southern Cross three months -previously, prospecting, in consequence of the report of Mr. -Hardman, the Government geologist, who had issued a map -showing the places where gold was most likely to be found, and -had not found any gold of consequence until now. The spot -where we made the first find was about 200 miles from the -present Reward Claim. In about a month, by specking and a -little dry blowing, our gold consisted of about 200 ounces. Our -rations ran out and we made tracks to Southern Cross, but -went back to the old workings, and on Sunday afternoon, while -fossiking around, we struck the reef. That evening we picked -up about 50 ounces of gold, and on Monday we pegged out a -prospecting area on the reef. That morning a party of three men -came on the scene. They had followed us from Southern Cross. -That day we obtained 300 ounces from the cap of the reef. -The party who had followed us stole about 200 ounces from -our claim, so we had to report it. For that purpose I went into -the Cross, carrying 554 ounces, which I showed to the Warden. -The field was then declared open. After another two days we -collected another lot of gold, amounting to 528 ounces. I conveyed -them to Southern Cross, and a fortnight after returning -to the field had to make another trip there, escorting 642 ounces. -All we found was right on the surface, and all we did was to -knock the stuff out and dolly it with a pestle and mortar. -There were six cartloads of tailings left. After the gold referred -to had been extracted from the quantity of stuff, we obtained a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"></a>[168]</span> -further amount of 298 ounces. We got a little over 2000 ounces -altogether out of the claim. We only had a five-acre lease of -the Reward Claim.”</p> - -<p>The news of the unprecedented richness of Bayley’s Find had -long ere this found its way over the entire world. Shortly after -the goldfield was proclaimed, and when the enormous richness -of Bayley’s Reward Claim was flashed all over the Australian -continent, Mr. Sylvester Browne, of Melbourne, a brother to -Mr. T. Browne (better known as Rolf Boldrewood, author of -the famous Australian book, “Robbery under Arms”), travelled -to Coolgardie and, after making an examination of the property, -bought the Reward Claim from Bayley and Ford for £6000 -and a sixth share in the mine. The bargain completed, -Mr. Sylvester Browne and some three or four other gentlemen -(mostly connections of his) set to work with their own hands, -and with no other tools but picks, shovels, hammers, and an -iron dolly, extracted the enormous quantity of 9000 ounces, -or £36,000 worth of gold, in a few weeks. On April 8, -1893, a parcel of 2500 ounces, worth £10,000, arrived in -Perth, and was lodged in the Union Bank. Then, on -June 7, 3185 ounces more were received by this bank and -exhibited, and on September 6 a third lot of 3605 ounces -were deposited by Mr. Everard Browne on behalf of Bayley’s -Reward Company, and, finally, during the Christmas holidays, -a trophy, valued at £30,000, was gazed upon by -admiring crowds at the office of the bank. The trophy is a -stirring sight. It consists of 7000 ounces of smelted gold and -600 or 700 ounces of rich quartz specimens, and everybody, from -the Governor downwards, has been to see it. This gold was -taken from a depth of only 40 feet, while some of the biggest -nuggets at Ballarat, Victoria, were found more than 1000 feet -below the surface. It is now placed beyond all doubt that our -golden reefs are what is termed “permanent,” a fact which -pessimists, both in and out of the colony, have until now been -loath to admit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"></a>[169]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus47" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus47.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">BAYLEY’S REWARD MINE—UNDERLAY SHAFT</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"></a>[170]</span></p> - -<p>Facts are stubborn things, and an ounce of experience is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"></a>[171]</span> -worth a ton of theory. Here was a mine which in a few months -yielded over,£80,000. The following is an extract from a -Perth newspaper:—</p> - -<p>“The cry from Coolgardie is still of astounding discoveries -of such rich gold-bearing rock as mankind has never known -before. There is actually being exhibited at Counsel’s Stores -a lump of gold and stone weighing a little over two hundredweight, -in which, it was estimated by experts, there was nearly -a hundredweight and a half of the precious metal. It looks -as if the time were within reasonable distance when <i>Punch’s</i> -old prophecy would be realised, and the Cheapside hawkers be -seen going about with gold snuff-boxes and a ha’porth of snuff -for a penny.”</p> - -<p>One of the prospectors wrote thus: “I left the field at -the end of January last, when things were at their earliest -stage, and even then phenomenal finds were of daily occurrence. -I remember one evening particularly when the -whole camp was thrown into a furore of excitement owing to -three men coming in with a gunny sack full of quartz some -60 lb. in weight (I saw and handled the stone myself), and -before the evening they had dollied 150 ounces from it. At -Adams’ Reef, 25 miles north of Bayley’s, I saw tons of stone -on which the gold was sticking in small nuggets. There was one -place we christened the Potato Ground, owing to the large size -of the nuggets picked up there.</p> - -<p>“On Sundays, by way of rest, picks and shovels were -abandoned, and almost every one in the camp went out for an -afternoon’s specking (looking on the ground for nuggets). -Before leaving Coolgardie I had the pleasure of seeing over -Bayley’s Reef. I shall never forget the sight; it settled my -career, and I do not think I shall ever follow any avocation but -that of a miner; for there on this reef, instead of, as one usually -sees in an ordinarily rich reef, specks and perhaps here and -there nuggets of gold—on Bayley’s there were veins, in fact, -literally outstanding bars of gold. So much so that if Mr. -Bayley had given me leave to do an hour’s work on it and take<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"></a>[172]</span> -the results, my trip to the old country and back to Western -Australia would have cost me nothing, and I warrant I could -have had a pretty good time too.”</p> - -<p>Arthur Bayley did not live long to enjoy the wealth he -acquired through his discovery, as he died at Melbourne in -1897, at the early age of 34 years. Gold-mining will trouble -him no more. The handsome city of Coolgardie remains a -monument to his memory.</p> - -<p>Many other reefs had by this time been discovered by various -parties at different distances from Coolgardie, one notably big -and rich one at the 90-Mile, called the “Roaring Gimlet.” No -stores or provisions lay that way, consequently great privations -had to be endured. However, those who managed to remain -got surprisingly rich stone on the surface. Here the quartz -was quite white and barren looking, but, on sinking, rich alluvial -gold was found at the rate of 250 ounces to the ton. Half-way -to the 90-Mile, at what they call the 45-Mile, surprisingly rich -results were also obtained.</p> - -<p>The camp at Bayley’s was at this time a scene of intense -excitement; 3000 men were on the field. Such a collection of -habitations was never before seen—blanket-shelters, bush-humpies, -and tents covered the ground; men were digging, -specking, dry blowing, and knapping every bit of available -quartz. Then provisions and water got scarce; famine was -feared, and many of the miners had to move on. “Water, -water, everywhere, but not a drop to drink.” Many a poor -parched prospector on the weary tramp has said this, and many -explorers in this vast country have given the same cry. No -water—this is the terror of the Australian desert, more deadly -than wild beasts or savages in other countries. As the dragon -in olden days guarded the gate of the Hesperides wherein grew -the golden apples, so thirst, famine and fever seemed at first -to guard Nature’s treasure-house. Civilisation and engineering -have now greatly diminished these terrors, and in the new -Eldorado large cities have arisen where once was an inhospitable -desert.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"></a>[173]</span></p> - -<p>The marvellous City of Kalgoorlie stands on the site of -Hannan’s Find.</p> - -<p>Twelve months after the finding of Coolgardie an important -discovery was made 24 miles away in a north-easterly -direction. About 150 miners had set out to search for some -lost prospectors near Yerilla. They were compelled by lack -of water to halt, and actually camped on the spot where the -find was afterwards made! Rain fell and the main body went -forward and continued their search, but two of the party, named -Hannan and Harrigan, remained, and stumbled on what has since -proved to be the richest field the world has ever known. They -had begun specking, and obtained nearly 100 ounces in a few -days. As gold is worth nearly £4 per ounce, that was good work. -They returned to Coolgardie, reported the find, and secured an -area equal to 10 alluvial claims. Nearly 2000 men followed -them on their return to the find, most of whom remained there. -It would be impossible to tell in words the value and marvellous -richness of this new Eldorado. Nine thousand ounces of gold -were taken from 4 tons of stone at Hannan’s mine, and other -claims of 50 feet square yielded 400 and 500 ounces of gold -each. Some of the prospectors were new chums, and had -never been on a goldfield before. One who knew nothing of -mining sunk his shaft by sheer luck fair on the gold. Hundreds -of practical diggers had walked over the ground before, little -thinking that the ironstone gravel was so rich in the precious -metal and that they were passing over thousands of ounces. -Another man dollied (that is, crushed by hand labour with a -heavy weight) 650 ounces in three weeks, the only implements -being half a bottle of quicksilver and the head of a pick. Many -a time these prospectors of the gold country have felt that a -spring of fresh water and a few loaves of bread would be more -welcome to them than all the gleaming gold they were getting. -Under what trials did they work! No water to wash the dirt, -and yet the ground so moist that they had to dry the dirt -before they could blow it to find the gold; yet they persevered, -and many found fortunes by hard work and persistence. No<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"></a>[174]</span> -wonder many miners say that gold-mining is not so easy as -falling off a log.</p> - -<p>An Adelaide syndicate at this time sent Messrs. W. G. -Brookman and Pearce, with a capital of only £150, out of which -passages, camels, and rations had to be found, to prospect -around this marvellous new find, which they did with such -success that they discovered a still more wonderful place 3 -miles from Hannan’s Find, and now called the Boulder. Their -find has since proved the greatest of all. The first claim was -called the Great Boulder, and the property included two ironstone -hills, one 100 yards long by 50 feet wide; the other twice -that size. These hills were covered with rich stones, the -prospectors picking them up from all parts, and Mr. Pearce -picked up several large slugs (nuggets) at the foot of the hill. -They afterwards took up several more claims, and soon found -these to contain enormous gold-bearing reefs. Messrs. Brookman -and Pearce, by keeping to the old adage, that “a still tongue -makes a wise head,” remained undisturbed, and were able to take -up all the ground they wanted. Lake View Consols, Ivanhoe -Associated, and other rich mines were taken up by this little -syndicate, and are now valued at £21,000,000. Mr. Brookman, -as you may suppose, is now one of the millionaires of Western -Australia.</p> - -<p>The next great find was the Londonderry, in May 1894, -when thousands of ounces were dollied out from the surface. -Lord Fingall bought out the claim for an interest and £180,000 -cash. Then followed the Wealth of Nations, from whose first -find was taken an enormous quantity of gold and specimens -worth £20,000. This claim was soon bought up for £150,000. -The inevitable rush to both these places followed. The men -all seemed to run mad in their thirst for gold. It was at -this time that almost everything showing gold was snapped -up and put on the London market. Stories savouring of the -Arabian Nights were in free circulation, and thousands of -people from all parts of the world began to flock to Western -Australia, which from comparative obscurity has now become<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"></a>[175]</span> -the greatest gold-mining country the world has ever seen, -and, no doubt, the interior of this vast country holds an -almost inexhaustible quantity of gold-bearing quartz, which -in years to come, when railways and other appliances have -made it easier to reach the far-off fields, will be discovered -and used. We may see such marvellous discoveries of gold -that “Golden Western Australia” will be the fitting name for -the once neglected Cinderella of the colonies.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"></a>[176]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus48" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus48.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Bayley Street, Coolgardie, 1897</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</h2> - -<p>Coolgardie—The Camels are Coming—The Landlord’s Record—Meeting -a Friend—A Goldfields Camp—“Nap”—The Reward -Mine—Bonnie Vale—Londonderry—Nearly Lost—King Solomon’s -Mine—Hampton Plains.</p> - -</div> - -<p>At 9 o’clock in the morning after my arrival in the Golden -City, I stood gazing in amazement at a string of 135 camels, -with numerous baby camels, such funny-looking creatures, -walking by their mothers! The Afghan leaders came crying -“Hoostah,” and their Indian dresses and huge turbans made a -most picturesque sight for eyes that had before only seen the -like in pictures, or, yes, one, I think, at the Melbourne “Zoo.” -Then another camel came trotting or galloping with a -European on its back, who seemed as much at home as on a -horse. I am told camel-riding gives one a sea-sick feeling. I -have never tried the experiment of a ride, though several ladies -on the fields have done so. To look at the camel you would -think a step-ladder required to mount one, but it is not so, as -the camel kneels down and allows you to get on his back; -you then cling on tight, while he proceeds to get up, which he -does with an awful jerk, at the same time making a peculiar -bellowing noise, which sent me away to a good distance. -When I tell you that a camel’s hind legs will reach any part of -him, over his head, round his chest, and on to his hump, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"></a>[179]</span> -that he has the unpleasant habit of shooting out his legs without -warning, and also that his neck is of the same pliancy, you -will not wonder that the “ship of the desert” has no charm for -me. The camel is the great beast of burden of Western -Australia; the first were brought as an experiment to the West -by two Hindoo traders; these animals quickly came into favour -in the waterless districts, and now there are thousands of them -carrying supplies to the different parts of the colony. They -are very obedient to their Afghan masters, but it is difficult for -a white man ever to obtain great influence over them; they -never seem to take kindly to white people. A string of these -useful but ungainly animals is led by one of their own species, -a string passing through a peg in the nose of every camel in -the train, and keeping them in a line. The headgear of a leading -camel is a gay affair; a network of fancy coloured wool with -many a bright-hued tassel and white shells, finished off with blue -and red beads. The Afghans are very careful and proud of -their “leading gentleman.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"></a>[177]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus49" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus49.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">EARLY DAYS, COOLGARDIE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"></a>[178]</span></p> - -<p>Taking a drive round Coolgardie I was much surprised at the -size of the place. It is four miles square. Driving out to the -racecourse we passed the recreation-ground. As it was Saturday, -many of the boys of the town were playing cricket. We -passed through the suburb of Toorak. Certainly there are no -fine mansions; for the most part the places are Hessian camps -with occasional tents, but there are also some very comfortable-looking -wooden cottages, many with praiseworthy attempts at -ornamentation, painted light green, and not at all unpleasing to -the eye in this sandy and desert-looking country. There are -no large trees here at all, a few medium-sized ones, and plenty -of mulga scrub and salt-bush, which looks most dry and uninviting, -but contains much nourishment, so that sheep and cattle -thrive well on it, and mulga is almost the only food of the camel. -Returning to Coolgardie, we passed through the town again -and crossed the railway bridge to the other chief suburb, -Montana. Here we saw the fine residence of Warden Finnerty, -and the hospital, called John of God. On we went past the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"></a>[180]</span> -suburb along the road to the famed Londonderry. The -country just here was very pretty; there is a deep gully on -one side with a good deal of vegetation, which, after all the -sand and mulga, was most pleasing to the eye. The sun was -just setting, and the brilliant red of the sky seemed to cast a -reflection on the earth. The mines in the background, with the -tents scattered round, a camel-train along the bush, and the -town in the distance, formed a unique picture. Returning we -took another direction, past the oldest part of the town, and -past the Afghans’ camp. The day’s work was done and -hundreds of camels were lying down or munching the mulga. -The Afghans were preparing their evening meal and chattering -to one another in shrill voices. I soon saw quite enough of this -part, and was not sorry to return to my comfortable quarters -at the hotel.</p> - -<p>The population of Coolgardie and the immediate neighbourhood -is at the present time about 13,000; a few years ago there -were more than twice that number, most of whom have gone to -the Kalgoorlie and other fields, as the enormous richness of -Coolgardie is now a thing of the past, although many mines -are still yielding well.</p> - -<p>There is a really splendid post-office, also a court-house and -warden’s offices, recently finished. These are three of the finest -public buildings in Western Australia. There are many other fine -buildings, notably the Grand Hotel, Union Bank, and Beaconsfield -Chambers. The Chamber of Mines is another handsome -building on a splendid site, and a most valuable place for the -mining community. The Chamber of Mines keeps the people -of the world well informed concerning the great gold-mining -industry, and communicates statistical information of a trustworthy -character to every member interested in the mines -of the colony, as well as information concerning the fairness -and justice of legislation dealing with mines. One half of the -building is occupied by the Coolgardie Club. Looking at these -magnificent buildings in the wide and spacious streets, all -lighted up by electricity, and supplied with every luxury, one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"></a>[181]</span> -can scarcely realise that a few years ago Coolgardie was a -sandy desert; where many men went through hardships almost -beyond imagination; where fever reigned supreme; where the -bare necessities of life were daily longed for in vain; where -comforts were the things to be only dreamed of and the -isolation was terrible; where tinned meat, the only kind -obtainable, became almost hateful, and received the name of -“tinned dog”; where one could almost cry, “Water, water everywhere, -but not a drop to drink,” since the pioneers often found -themselves in a wilderness with nothing but salt water, quite -unfit to drink, and refused even by the camel, who is supposed -to drink almost anything obtainable. Camels would stray -away seeking for water, and then the owners would return to -their camps disheartened, saying that they had no time to look -for gold, it took all their time to look for water and camels. -The terrible longing for home news, and the uncertainty of -getting any; the wall that seemed to divide the miners from -the rest of the world, together with the feeling that there was -untold wealth of gold lying beneath their feet if they could -only hold out and keep up strength to get at it, made their lives -almost intolerable, and many of those first prospectors have -gone under, poor fellows! leaving others to reap the reward -and to make Coolgardie the wonderful place it is to-day.</p> - -<p>Then came better times, when sufficient food could be -obtained, and water condensers were brought, which, by a -certain heat process, made the salt water more fit for use, -although it was still sometimes so bad that the rich prospectors -often performed their ablutions in champagne by preference -to it.</p> - -<p>Going down Bayley Street that morning there was quite a -stir outside one of the smaller hotels. Of course, woman’s -curiosity prompted me to stop and look, and I found a wedding-party -just returned from church. The landlord of this hotel, -Mr. Faahan, has really had a unique experience in servants, for -this is the twenty-second of his women assistants, presumably -in the bar, who has entered the bonds of wedlock while in his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"></a>[182]</span> -employ. The hotel is one of the oldest in Coolgardie. I have -since entered it and met the genial Mrs. Faahan, who took me -outside and showed me an old tree beneath which the first drink -under licence was served in Coolgardie. The place that is now -the kitchen was then the bar, gold-dust was plentiful, and -champagne ran like streams of water. Opposite to Mr. -Faahan’s is the Cremorne Theatre, a very large place now, but -in the first days it was a shed with a stage made of rough -planks laid across beer-casks, and no accommodation for -visitors to sit down, and it is said that the miners used to pass -the time between the “turns,” as they call them, by calling out -the favourite players and throwing nuggets or screws of gold-dust -at them. Good old days!</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"></a>[183]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus50" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus50.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">WATER CONDENSER—FILLING THE WATER-BAG</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"></a>[184]</span></p> - -<p>Taking my bicycle I went for a tour of inspection around the -various streets adjacent to the town, where I found many very -nice houses, and to my surprise saw a lady in a very nice -carriage drawn by a pair of greys. Truly, I ought to be -surprised at nothing in wonderful Coolgardie. The roads here -are the most level and the best for cycling I have ever ridden on; -not only are the streets remarkably wide, but the footpaths -also. The town is on quite a plain. Riding merrily along I -was overtaken by a man cyclist, who did not favour me with -more than a passing glance, lady cyclists being no rarity here. -I, however, recognised him as an old friend and called out, -“Jack, don’t you know me?” He stopped in astonishment at -seeing me riding about Coolgardie on a bicycle, as we had last -said good-bye in New South Wales, three years since, before -his leaving for the Golden West, whither I then had no intention -of migrating. After a little chat, in which I discovered -that Jack had not struck a gold patch or “made his pile yet,” he -invited me to the camp to dinner with himself and the boys -(his mates), and feeling quite anxious really to see for myself -what the inside of the camp was like, I did not require a second -invitation. We accordingly rode off side by side, past endless -rows of tents and hessian camps, all alive with the miners now -home for their dinner. Some of them had wives in the camp<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"></a>[185]</span> -to cook their dinner, but the majority of the campers had to -cook for themselves. “We must hurry up, for I am cook this -week,” said my friend, and pointing to a parcel on the bicycle, -remarked, “Here is our dinner that is to be.” No tinned -dog now, as it used to be, but real, genuine steak. On -arrival at the camp we found two of the boys anxiously -awaiting the arrival of the steak, and somewhat surprised at -seeing Jack accompanied by a lady cyclist, whom, however, they -greeted with much heartiness. Poor fellows! here were four of -them all away from home and mother; all had given up good -appointments on the other side to come over and search for gold. -They were all very jolly, however, and said that they had no -cause to complain of Coolgardie. My first anxiety was to inspect -the camp, which was a neat one. It consisted of five little Hessian -houses: four of these were the sleeping apartments of the four -mates, and two of them especially were models of comfort, as -far as the boys could manage it. One was lined with bright -cretonne, a shaded lamp by the side of the bed, a rough -bookcase with the owner’s favourite books and photographs of -various friends opposite; a nice cosy chair and a wooden -table, made by my friend Jack, completed the furniture. Then -another had his camp lined with green baize, very nice in winter, -but too hot, I imagine, in summer-time. Here was a nice little -table, two shelves painted with white enamel paint, and some -sketches done by the owner; many little presents that had -been sent from home were being proudly shown to me when -we heard the welcome sound, “Dinner is ready.” We then -adjourned to the fifth tent, which proved to be dining-room, -parlour, and card-room in one. A table down the middle -covered with oil-cloth, a bench at each side, with a side shelf -and rustic dresser, formed the furniture. The steak was cooked -splendidly. My thoughts went back to the time when I had -seen Jack last, quite a swell young man at Newcastle, N.S.W., -and now here he was in a wide hat and shirt-sleeves, cook -to the camp, and looking, I must say, all the better for his -roughing experiences. They had brought out the man in him.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"></a>[186]</span> -Before he was somewhat inclined to be effeminate, now he had -become a fine fellow. But I am wandering away from the -dinner-party. The butter was good, although it was tinned -butter, and the bread as light as a feather. “The baker calls -every day,” they told me, “and if we are all out we pin up a -memo. on the door and tell him how many loaves to leave.” -“Now,” said Jack, “I must go out and get the pudding.” I -felt I ought at least to assist, and was also a little curious to -see how it was being cooked, so getting up in spite of protests -that I was the guest and must do nothing, I went out to quiz. -I found the fireplace consisted of two iron spikes in the ground -with a bar across, from which hooks were hanging, and on the -hooks were two billies (tin cans with wire at top to hang by), one -with tea and the other with pudding. I was presently to have -what we call in the colonies “billy tea.” I could see no pudding-cloth, -but presently Jack fished out a shining tin which proved -to contain one of Swallow and Ariel’s Melbourne plum puddings, -and a delicious one it was. Mothers in the colonies and -in England need never fear that their boys away on the goldfields -do not get nice puddings or cakes while Swallow and Ariel -are to the fore. Returning to the dining-tent pudding laden, I -found the boys had just extracted from a tin a sweet cake and -also a preserved pineapple. This, with tinned Viking cream and -the billy tea, finished up a dinner fit for a Princess of Coolgardie, -as indeed I felt myself to be that evening, with those four boys -doing me homage. I found out afterwards that they had -all these nice things in the camp in reserve for Christmas, but -they were only too glad to open them all in my honour. -Apropos of tinned articles, the piles of discarded tins on the -fields make one open one’s eyes; there must be millions of them. -One of my friends told me that in earlier days, when everything -in the palpitating heat-waves and fearful grilliness of the camps -got destroyed with heat and dust, they used to come home to -their meals feeling almost inclined to fall down and worship the -tinned vegetables and meat that they had buried in holes to try -and keep cool, and that these were the only eatable things to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"></a>[187]</span> -be got. Canned apples were a special luxury for Sundays, and -took them back to orchards and gardens where they had -wandered in the past. “Those apples, with a lump of plum -pudding, full of good things, sustained our waning energies and -brought us up smiling out of our then dreary camp life, and,” -said another, “it brought back happy recollections of civilisation -and home.”</p> - -<p>After dinner we played a game of Nap on the camp-table, -and I was the winner of nine shillings, after which they all -escorted me back to my hotel, calling in on our way to see some -other friends at another camp, which proved to be a more -pretentious place than the first, and consisted of one of the -pretty cottages before -spoken of, the tenants -again bachelors. The -inmates, a mining -manager, his secretary, -and clerk, are attended -by a Japanese -servant; a very nice -piano was in the pretty -drawing-room. One -of the boys sang “Queen of my Heart,” in compliment he -said to me, and after a friendly glass of wine we resumed our -bicycles and rode gaily into the town, where I bade them -good-bye, after spending a most enjoyable afternoon in a goldfields’ -camp.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus51" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus51.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Burbanks Grand Junction Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>I went next day to see Bayley’s Mine, where those wonderful -first finds were made. As I drove down broad Bayley Street and -looked at the stately buildings, I could not but think of those -early days and of the excitement of that time.</p> - -<p>Of course I did not expect to pick up lumps of gold as people -did then, but I certainly intended to keep my eyes very wide open, -for I knew it was not an infrequent occurrence for men to find -good slugs of gold about Coolgardie still. There are always a -lot of men fossicking (looking for gold at the surface)<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"></a>[188]</span> -about Bayley’s, and recently a man found a specimen of -quartz weighing 144 ounces, and containing 97 ounces of pure -gold; later on he found several smaller pieces near the same -place. The country around Bayley’s is not very striking. -Beyond the mines working and the smoke from their batteries -there is nothing to be seen except miles of holes where the -prospectors have been at work seeking for gold. It must have -been a busy scene when they were here. Thousands of miners -digging away, and then washing the stuff in tin dishes to see if -there was a show of gold; and if one hole showed nothing, -away they turned to another. The manager of Bayley’s took -me round and told me that the mine is still very rich.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus52" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus52.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Vale of Coolgardie Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>I think the people of Coolgardie ought to erect a memorial -pillar to mark the wonderful spot which may well be called the -Mother of Coolgardie. Little did the pioneers think, when they -camped on this spot a few years ago, that the arid desert would -turn into a fine city, with more golden country farther out, and -other cities, with tens of thousands of people earning good -wages, and many amassing large fortunes. Such a transformation -in so short a time the world has never known.</p> - -<p>After leaving Bayley’s I crossed through a network of poles -until I struck the main road, and drove off to Bonnie Vale, -which deserves its name, the country being very hilly and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"></a>[189]</span> -quite surprisingly fresh and green. Here many fine mines, -viz., the Vale of Coolgardie, New Victoria Consols, and others, -under the control of Mr. A. E. Morgans, the member for the -district, are in full swing, and only wanting plenty of water to -give big results. A very nice little town lies close to the mines. -In another direction are the Big Blow and the Flagstaff; then -come Burbanks and Burbanks Birthday Gift. Burbanks -Birthday Gift is really a splendid mine. The main shaft, -with its steel poppet-heads, is well worth a visit, and so are the -interesting models of different parts of the mine, which were -sent to the Paris Exhibition. Lady Charlotte Mine is well -worth inspection; a fine new battery has lately been erected, -and operations are now in full swing. The gold I saw -from this mine—what they call “coarse free gold”—was very -splendid, and the quartz with the gold showing through was -exceedingly rich.</p> - -<p>I next visited the famous Londonderry Mine, some five miles -farther on through the bush. I had some difficulty in finding -my way, as, after leaving the last mine a few miles behind, -there were several tracks, and I did not know which to take. -However, I took the one to the right, and, after going on -another mile, came across a party of five prospectors, who -looked somewhat surprised when I drove up and asked to -be directed to the Londonderry. They were, however, most -civil, and gave me the requisite directions, one even offering -to accompany me. That, however, I thought unnecessary, -so I drove off, and soon came in sight of the big poppet-heads -of Londonderry, and none too soon, for I had just -discovered that a portion of the buggy I was driving had -given way and I could not have gone on much farther. The -mine and its surroundings gave one a very favourable -impression. Everything looked bright and nice. I drove -up to the manager’s office, who immediately sent a man to -take the buggy to the blacksmith’s shop for repair, the -horse to the stables for a feed, after which he kindly invited -me to his house, and giving instructions to his housekeeper to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"></a>[190]</span> -attend to all my wants, had to leave me, as it was time to go -down the mine for inspection. I was not at all sorry for a -rest in a cool room, with a cup of tea and some excellent -cakes made by the housekeeper, for after the drive of ten -miles in the hot sun through the Coolgardie bush I felt that -there are drawbacks to travelling. When the manager came -up from below he escorted me over the mine and showed me -everything of interest. Londonderry was, after Bayley’s, the -richest find near Coolgardie, and held a wonderful record. -The mine is the brightest-looking I have seen. Everything -about it seemed spick and span; the manager’s house was -a model of comfort. There was a store, a blacksmith’s shop, -offices, and, indeed, every appurtenance that could be desired -for a mine. The manager unlocked the great iron safe and -showed me such gold that I had never seen before. I felt -like Shakespeare’s Benedick, “I did not think that I should -live to see such gold.” It was really the most brilliant and -beautiful sight I had ever seen. One large block of white -quartz was thickly studded with gold in nuggets all over it. -I wanted to pick one off, but on trying to do so found it firmly -imbedded in the quartz. Over a dozen magnificent specimens -came from one rich pocket. Down below in this wonderful -mine, at the 200-foot level, a huge case is fitted up with iron -doors for the reception of the rich surplus ore that the safes -cannot hold. I admired some peculiar-looking specimens that -I was told were felspar, which is valuable for glass-making, -and is found here in large quantities.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"></a>[191]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus53" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus53.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">JUBILEE AT RED HILL MINE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"></a>[192]</span></p> - -<p>After all the kindness I had received from the manager I -bade him a reluctant farewell, as it was getting late and -a ten-mile drive through strange country to Coolgardie lay -before me, but I knew there was a moon that night, and did -not fear the Australian bush at all, so I refused the offer of an -escort, and drove off by a different road from the one I came -for I wanted to see the township of Londonderry before I left. -This is about half a mile from the mine, past the tidy camps -of the men, who all came out and bade me a cheery good-bye.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a>[193]</span> -I stopped long enough in the town to see that it is remarkably -well laid out, with a very wide principal street, a few very -nice buildings, viz., post-office, store, hotel and church; also a -nice recreation-ground, where a number of the miners and other -townfolk were playing cricket. But I had to hurry away, so, -turning round a corner and following the telegraph-line, I -started for Coolgardie. The sun was just going down, the -heat of the day was over, and with the evening a refreshing -breeze had arisen. I drove on quite happily. Nothing happened, -except that I met two swagmen in the Bush, who looked at me -so hard that I must confess I whipped up the horse and got -on as quickly as I could. I was now on quite a different -road from the one I came by. Everything looked strange, -and I began to wonder whether I was lost, but consoled -myself by looking at the telegraph-line, which I knew must -lead to Coolgardie. The Wealth of Nations Mine lies in this -direction, one of the Western Australian golcondas of early -days, where discoveries of gold, frequently in pockets—small -holes containing comparatively large quantities of gold—such as -had not previously been known, were made near the surface, and -caused the wildest excitement. It was, however, too late to -go there now, so I continued on the same road. Another -mile brought a big mine in view, and to my relief I found -myself at Burbanks again, and on the main road, so I was -all right, and drove merrily along, meeting only a carter or -so walking by the side of their teams, who, seeing a lady -driving alone, said, “Good-night, missus,” and went steadily -on. As we got to the rise of the hill at Montana the presence -of hundreds of lights gave me welcome to the Queen City of -Gold, so there was a safe ending to that day’s journey, and -both myself and horse were quite ready for a good supper -when we arrived at the hotel.</p> - -<p>Next morning I started for Hampton Plains, which is a -large area of ground taken up many years ago by an English -syndicate at 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per acre for pastoral purposes. However, -when the rush of ’92 broke out at Coolgardie, the news<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span> -travelled to England that the great rush was only a few miles -from their territory. No wonder that they then immediately -sent out an expert, Mr. Lapage, M.I.E.C.E., to reconnoitre. -On Mr. Lapage’s arrival he found that a considerable number -of alluvial surface holes had already been struck, and -1000 ounces of gold had been taken out within their -boundary. Going over the land he found shows of gold in -various places; owing to the scarcity of water, nothing much, -however, had ever been developed there until recently, when -the estate was thrown open to prospectors. Large brickworks -are now started on one part of the plains, and the demand from -Kalgoorlie for bricks is so great that the company have lately -duplicated their plant in order to make bricks enough to meet -the orders they receive.</p> - -<p>On my way to Hampton Plains I called at Bayley’s South, -which are yielding up very good gold. I saw a lot of ore -come up out of the mine that showed gold distinctly. I felt -myself becoming quite an expert now. The ore brought up -here is in part hornblende schist, carrying very visible gold. -The manager told me the gold had evidently been shed from -the reef into the surrounding country rock, where there are -cross reefs. I also saw some ironstone, which I was told was -very rich, but the gold in it was so fine that one required to -use a magnifying-glass, with the aid of which I could distinctly -see it.</p> - -<p>I next visited King Solomon’s Mine—not Rider Haggard’s -famous one but an exceedingly interesting namesake. Here there -are quantities of the diorite mixture of felspar and hornblende, -with gold distinctly showing through. This is an unusual and -peculiar geological formation, and the best specimens found -on the field are at this mine. The gold has been found impregnated -in the diorite at a considerable distance from the reefs, -probably deposited there by water. I presently passed the -Golden Queen, and thought this such a nice name for a mine -that I had to get down and inspect it. I was lucky in just -being in time to see two bars of gold come up from the smelting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"></a>[195]</span> -works, and felt very covetous. The manager told me that if I -liked I could take them. I tried to do so and found they were -too heavy for me to carry, so perforce had to leave them, much -to my regret. I now approached Hampton Plains, a very flat -part of the country, as its name indicates. I looked around in -vain for a hostelry where I might put up and refresh myself and -horse, but no sign of anything of the kind appeared; about a -dozen nice-looking houses in a line were all I could see, the -rest was plain, plain, plain. I summoned courage to open the -double gates of one of the houses and drove up to ask for a -drink for my poor horse, who seemed almost overcome with the -heat of the day. A man seeing me came to inquire what I -wanted, and while I was speaking to him a lady appeared on -the broad verandah and kindly invited me to enter. I was -really glad to do so. Mrs. Ridsdale—for such was the lady’s name—kindly -told the man to put the horse up and go and try and -find enough water for a drink for him. They were really without -water on this dreadful hot day, waiting for the water-carts -to come with supplies. However, I was hospitably entertained -with soda-water and claret and biscuits, and after a rest, finding -that my horse had been refreshed with water, and also with -some food, the carts having arrived, I started off to investigate -Hampton Plains. I did not find a great deal to see. -Several claims have been taken up, with no very great results -so far, except at the Italians Reward Claim, where some very -rich stuff has been got from the mine. There I was shown -some handsome specimens, which were kept in pickle-bottles, -and very much admired one large nugget, weighing 15 ounces. -The land around here seemed suitable for pastoral pursuits, -if it were not for the scarcity of water, a difficulty which will -be overcome when the river of fresh water arrives at Coolgardie, -and there will no doubt in time be plenty of gardens and -orchards, for the soil is most productive. I saw a finger-post -marked, “To Red Hill.” That is another goldfield likely to be -rich in the future.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"></a>[196]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</h2> - -<p class="center">The Golden Butterfly—Norseman—Gold Exhibits—Coolgardie—Alluvial -Treasures.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Before leaving for England Mr. St. John Winne, the manager -of the Butterfly Leases at Red Hill, showed me some marvellously -rich gold specimens that he was taking with him to show -the English investors. One particular piece from which the -mine derives its name is in the shape of a butterfly—wings, -body, even the little -horns are perfectly -like one. I have -read the “Golden -Butterfly,” and have -seen many golden -butterflies careering -in the air, but never -thought to have one -of natural solid -gold in my hand. -Mr. Winne has now returned from England, and I believe -the English shareholders’ eyes were fairly dazzled with the -samples of the prospective wealth before them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus54" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus54.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Golden Butterfly Nugget</p> -</div> - -<p>It is 40 miles from Coolgardie to Red Hill and Lake Lefroy, -and the journey is anything but pleasant; the “Brumbies,” -however, knew their way, and the manner in which they got -through the bush was astounding. There was no road, only a -track, but they took us safely over fallen trees, &c., for which we -were duly thankful. There were several camps of prospectors -about and the men seemed to be quite contented, and were getting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"></a>[197]</span> -gold; they were, however, like all alluvial miners, rather reticent -about the quantity. Water is very scarce; it was a good thing we -had provided ourselves with water-bags and a good hamper of -provisions, otherwise we should have fared badly, for the only -bush hotel we came to was made of the proverbial tin, and -everything inside was nearly at boiling-point, so we preferred -camping out under a tree. Water-bags are a great institution -in Western Australia. They are made of canvas, and have a -metal spout; as you drive along they swing in the air, which -makes the water delightfully cool. Lake Lefroy is a beautiful-looking -lake, and I longed for a bathe after the intense heat -and dust of the day; but, alas! the water was but a mirage, -and you could only look and long. It was, however, a beautiful -sight; the white salt on its surface, stretching for miles, -seemed to reflect the blue sky with the sun shimmering on it. -There are a great number of lakes in Western Australia, but -they are nearly all dry and salt; no water can be obtained -except by boring, and then it has to be condensed before it -is usable. After being condensed it is quite palatable, and many -fortunes have been made on the goldfields by people owning -condensers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus55" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus55.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The Main Shaft, Butterfly Leases.</p> -</div> - -<p>Red Hill is not a bad little place. The accommodation of the -Bush “hotel” was very primitive, but we were in the “back-blocks” -of the West, and felt that we must not be too critical. -There were several mines and numbers of alluvial miners at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"></a>[198]</span> -work getting good results, and very sanguine of making a big -find one of these days. I saw the stope (excavation) where the -Treasure Chamber was, in which all the before-mentioned gold -at the Butterfly Mine was found, and I wished a similar rich -pocket might be struck while I was on the spot. Thirty -miles from Red Hill is Wigiemooltha, and 65 miles farther on is -Norseman, a rich mining town in the Dundas Goldfield. In the -future there is to be a railway line through these places, -and, the people hope, to Esperance, a seaport 200 miles from -Coolgardie and 237 miles from Albany. Norseman is a very -flourishing goldfields town of over 1000 people. There are -some good mines there, the foremost one, The Norseman, -turning out considerably over 1000 ounces of gold per month. -The Princess Royal and Break o’ Day Mines have also given -splendid results, sensationally rich gold having been recently -found at the latter mine.</p> - -<p>The clergyman at Norseman performs the tying of the marriage-knot -for many hundred miles around, and it is recorded that -two couples were so anxious for connubial felicity, and wrote so -many pressing letters for the minister to come and unite them, -that he started on his bicycle for a 150-mile ride through the -desert country, and that when within 20 miles of the place the -bicycle broke down and he had to push it the rest of the way! -Had this not happened he had intended going on another trifle -of 100 miles or so to make another couple happy! The breakdown, -however, put a stop to his travels, and the couple are -perhaps still watching and waiting for the parson, who returned -to Norseman per camel.</p> - -<p>An exhibition was being held at Coolgardie during one of my -visits there, and was very interesting on account of the many -magnificent gold exhibits. As well as the gold, there were many -splendid exhibits from the agricultural districts, which opened -the eyes of the goldfields people, most of whom had never -been in any other part of the colony but the goldfields, and -who had an idea that gold was Western Australia’s only -product. Many of these people have been so much impressed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"></a>[199]</span> -that they have taken up agricultural land with a view to -having a country residence, to which they can retire after -the heat and dryness of the goldfields and recruit while -planting their gardens. In the Agricultural and Fruit Court -bunches of grapes, weighing 8 lb. each, apples, pears, and -quinces, 2 lb. each, pomegranates, oranges, and other fruits, -were shown in rich and tempting profusion. A trophy -of pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers of all hues, shapes, -and sizes was displayed. The crown of the trophy was a huge -brown pumpkin weighing 165 lb.! A vast array of watermelons, -some weighing 50 lb. each, mangels and other sorts of -homely vegetables, of immense size, were to be seen. All kinds -of cereals were represented. It is a fact that no less than -32 distinct varieties of wheat can be grown in the colony. -The wool I thought very good, considering what a small -quantity is grown here yet. The collection certainly demonstrates -the fitness of certain parts of the colony for raising flocks. -One fleece of 330 days growth weighed 13½ lb. I was also -surprised to see some cotton that was grown on the East -Murchison at Mount Warragi.</p> - -<p>The row of gilt pyramids representing the output of gold -from each field struck my eye as soon as I entered the -exhibition. It is interesting to remember that, when the -Colonial and Indian Exhibition was held at South Kensington, -London, Western Australia was not known as a gold-producing -country, and was represented principally by wild -flowers. In this exhibition the collection of auriferous -ores was simply marvellous. There were many bags of rich -gold ores from all parts of the country, as well as curious -beautiful and interesting specimens of tin, iron, copper, -asbestos, mica, and coal; in fact, samples of almost everything -found beneath the earth’s surface in this wide colony. -Then the gold: gold in granite, gold in quartz, gold in diorite, -gold in telluride, gold in the wash, gold in the pug, gold in -all kinds of alluvial deposits—in fact, gold, gold everywhere. -A section of the calcite vein from the Block 45 Mine, where the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"></a>[200]</span> -telluride was first discovered, is interesting. The auriferous -breccia from Nullagine, in the North-west, was shown to me -by my guide, who explained that the stuff was of similar -formation to the gold deposits of the Rand in South Africa, -in which diamonds are sometimes found; and, speaking of -Nullagine, there is now a syndicate there looking for diamonds. -The mine is called after Lady Forrest, some small diamonds -have been found, and from the latest reports fresh wonders -are expected there soon.</p> - -<p>There was a splendid specimen of fine flake gold, and a -magnificent large piece of quartz with gold all through it. -This was from the Brown Hill Mine. The Golden Horseshoe -showed such wonderful specimens of richness that my -eyes were fairly dazzled, and it is impossible to enumerate -them. Free gold, mustard gold, and the sparkling sponge -gold that really shone like diamonds were shown me, and a -part of the rich finds that were discovered when the shares -went up to £45; it nearly took my breath away to look at -them. The Associated Mines had a wonderful exhibit, the -finest of its kind in the world. It consisted of a block of -ore showing massive telluride gold of different kinds. A dark -mineral in the centre of the block when analysed proved to be -sulphide of copper. By way of contrast, a small piece of -ore containing telluride has been placed in front, and acid -employed to dissolve the tellurium, and this helps one to -comprehend the value of telluride.</p> - -<p>The Boulder Perseverance had a very fine collection of -different kinds of ore and gold and also some diamond drill -cores which I had not seen before. The magnificent collection -of the Lake View Consols, consisting of 68 specimens, -showing telluride of gold, 34 valuable samples of sulphide ore, -and 32 pieces of oxidised ore, showing immense quantities -of gold, besides many others showing the various stages of -oxidisation, really ought to be seen, words cannot describe -their beauty. The Great Boulder Mine showed 14 splendid -specimens of rich oxidised ore from the 100-foot level, containing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"></a>[201]</span> -sponge and free gold, and 15 specimens from the -200-foot level. In the centre of these was a block of ore with -a hole right through it full of sponge gold; there were 12 -specimens of rich sulphide ore from the 300-foot level, 10 very -interesting samples of tellurides of gold, mercury, and silver, -and saucers with chips of telluride of gold. Kalgurlite, which -is a new mineral, a telluride of gold, silver, and mercury, containing -35 per cent. of gold, 10 per cent. of silver, and 46 per -cent. of tellurium, was also exhibited, and a very unique collection -of sponge gold occupied -a case in the centre of the -court. This was found in -a very large vugh, and 60lb. -weight was obtained from -one spot in the oxidised ore. -It was composed of a mass -of minute crystals, and is -the most brilliant form of -gold found upon the field. -From the 400-foot level came -some marvellous samples of -ore showing telluride of gold -and free gold, and from the hanging wall of the lode, and the -foot wall of the same level, more rich specimens were shown.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp85" id="illus56" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus56.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The Miners’ Holiday</p> -</div> - -<p>There were some splendid exhibits from the Ivanhoe Mine, -and from hundreds of other mines on the field. Those I -have first mentioned were from Kalgoorlie alone. There -were splendid exhibits from Coolgardie, Kanowna, Menzies, -and Murchison Mines, and from many other parts of the -colony, whose unparalleled richness called forth the following -remark from an American mining-man, who was visiting the -court at the same time as I was, and who had come from -Cripple Creek in Colorado: “Wal, I’ve seen a big lot of specimens -in my time, but I must take off my hat to these; they -lick creation!” I returned next day to have a look at the -alluvial gold from the famed Kanowna. The court of alluvial<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"></a>[202]</span> -diggings was attracting a great deal of attention, not because of -its richness but also on account of the stir made in 1897 by -the rush there, when the rich alluvial gold was first struck by -George Sim. Not only has Kanowna proved itself a mine of -wealth for thousands of hard-working alluvial miners, who -chiefly worked the claims themselves, and consequently had all -the gold “on their own,” as their saying goes, but it also produces -a very fine building stone. There was in the exhibition -a most remarkable-looking perfect crystal 17½ inches long and -9 inches thick, which was discovered in the alluvial wash at -Shand and party’s Claim. The display of alluvial matter in -all its varied forms shown in this court was almost enough -to spur on any one to become a prospector. A golden -harvest has been reaped by thousands of men in a few short -months, for the rush to Kanowna began in November 1897, -and at that time the town of Kanowna was virtually dead; -three months later it was estimated that there were 2000 miners -in the field and 20,000 people in Kanowna all told. In twelve -months the field was virtually worked out, and although a -few parties are still getting a reward for their labours, there -are not now more than 1000 men on the field. The stuff -called “pug,” from which they get very fine gold, is a most -peculiar greenish, soft, putty-looking substance, and there -was a fine show of it from Hampton’s Claim in the Golden -Valley. This was found 61 feet down, and the deposit is 7 feet -thick. Some splendid specimens of lode material showed -crystalline gold extremely rich, worth 40 ounces to the ton. -The Red, White and Blue Claim, owned by Pratt and party, -displayed rich ironstone alluvial wash. This claim yielded -4500 ounces of gold, worth £18,000, and only a few partners -divided it. Some green alluvial wash which has given rich -results was from the Moonlight Lead, which also showed flake -gold; and from the Magpie Claim there was rich alluvial ore -shown worth 9 ounces per ton.</p> - -<p>Rich treasures similar to these were sent from the mines to -the Paris Exhibition, and the Western Australian Court was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"></a>[203]</span> -universally said to have the finest collection of minerals the -world had ever shown. The Bobby Dazzler nugget, weighing -413 ounces of solid gold, valued at £1500, was a surprise to many -beholders; among the hundreds of other solid lumps of the -precious metal sent to Paris was the large nugget that was cut in -two by one of the two men who found it, and who then drew lots -for the sections and found that there was only a difference of 30s. -in the value of them. Another slug of gold, worth £639, had the -distinct mark of a pick on it. I suppose the man who found it -could hardly believe in his good luck until he struck it a second -time. Another strange lump of gold is shaped like the map of -England, another like a camel’s head. The last “clean up” of -the Westralian Mount Morgans Mine was sent in bars of gold -worth £11,600. The Westralian Government purchased from -the owners of various mines I mention in these travels over -£100,000 worth of gold for the exhibition, and this, supplemented -by quantities more since won, will be shown at the Glasgow -Exhibition this year. The pearl-shell exhibit, was composed -of 600 enormous gleaming shells, which, when lit up by -electric light, looked like a fairy grotto. During last year -there were 179 vessels engaged in the pearl-shell fisheries in -Western Australia, and their aggregate tonnage was 2707. -The number of men employed was 1165, of which total 991 -were Asiatics. The pearl-shell raised amounted to 720 -tons, valued at £80,479, and the value of pearls found was -£15,529. Also our colony took four first prizes for timber, -wool, wheat, and minerals, at the Paris Exhibition, besides -eight gold medals, five silver ones, and five bronze for other -productions.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a>[204]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp83" id="illus57" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus57.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, 1898</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</h2> - -<p>Kalgoorlie City—The Six Great Mines in the Golden Mile—Mr. -Kaufman—Early Predictions Verified—Associated—Lake View -Consols and Great Boulder.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Hannan’s, or Kalgoorlie as it is now called, is 24 miles from -Coolgardie, and as I took my comfortable seat in the railway -carriage, sped along the once forsaken desert and arrived at -the now famous City of Gold, with its broad streets and -splendid buildings, it seemed incredible that such a transformation -should take place in a few short years. It would be -difficult to point to any place in the world that has developed -so rapidly. During their short existence Kalgoorlie and the -Boulder City have turned out over 31 tons of gold, and Coolgardie -has been quite outstripped by her younger sister. I -think, when gold is measured by the ton, the colony from which -it comes may be fairly considered marvellous. It is only -seven years since Hannan and Harrigan threw themselves down -to rest on the ground at the eastern corner of what is now -Kalgoorlie, and, fortunately for thousands of lucky people,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span> -discovered gold, and now, as far as that precious metal is -concerned, Kalgoorlie is the hub of Australia. Kalgoorlie is -a well-laid-out city. Bicycle tracks are laid down on the -30-foot wide paths, electric lights are everywhere, trees have -been planted in the broad streets, and by-and-by will afford -shade in the hot days for which Kalgoorlie is noted. The new -post-office is a splendid building, and has cost £40,000. The -warden’s and other public offices are also on a grand scale. -There are several magnificent hotels, especially the Railway, -opposite the station, and the Palace, covering half an acre of -ground, which I have made my headquarters. This hotel is -far the best on the goldfields of Western Australia; every -luxury is obtainable; it has a spacious dining-room with -electric fans always going, exquisite drawing-rooms, and -good attendance.</p> - -<p>There are several newspapers, the chief of which is the -<i>Kalgoorlie Miner</i>, edited by Mr. Kirwan, who identifies himself -in every way with the interests of the people as well as -with his editorial duties; the miners have a staunch friend in -him. There are many fine shops, especially jewellers, where -gold nuggets of all shapes and sizes made into handsome -ornaments may be bought. Land at Kalgoorlie is daily increasing -in value. An offer of £100 a foot was refused by -an acquaintance of mine for a plot she is lucky enough to -own. Some mining-men, including the well-known Mr. Zeb. -Lane, were dining at the next table to myself on one occasion, -and one of them remarked that he was sure that in a few -years there would be 300,000 people in Kalgoorlie. You -may be sure, holding that opinion, that the gentleman was -looking out for investments. A handsome new theatre is -being erected in Hannan’s Street. At present the Miners’ -Institute supplies the entertainments. The suburbs of Piccadilly -and Mullingar stretch far beyond the town site, and the -three miles to Boulder City are fast being built on, and will -shortly form one continuous busy road. Three fine breweries -supply the needful refreshment to thirsty souls, and altogether<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"></a>[206]</span> -Kalgoorlie is a splendid goldfields city, but the summer weather -is almost indescribable. One of the days had been unbearably -hot and oppressive; but dark clouds were overhead, and I -said, “Soon we shall have a rain storm, which will cool the -air.” My friends whom I was visiting laughed, and one of -them, with a merry twinkle in the eye, said, “There will -probably be a storm, but you will soon get accustomed to this -kind of weather; <i>wait awhile</i>.” In the evening Fitzgerald’s -“Great World Circus” being in town, we decided to risk the -“storm,” make up a party, and go to the performance. All -went well until about nine o’clock, when suddenly came “the -dreadful thunder”—the clouds had broken; then came, not the -rain, but dust, dust, <i>dust</i>—red, stifling, blinding, and terrible; for -the roof of the “Great World Circus” had been completely lifted -off by the red-dust fiend, while with his breath he had extinguished -almost every light in the tent. Crash! whiff! whirl! -and the “willy willy” had madly danced far away. One -minute’s terrified silence and then through the remaining red -haze could be seen the circus performers bravely continuing -their entertainment as if nothing had happened; and blended -with the echo of the distant din could be heard the strains, -“Gaily the music go-o-es, so gaily.” But the vast audience of -upwards of 3000 people, who, though the roar had been so -strangely “hush,” had witnessed enough excitement for one -night, gradually filed out through the rent of the swaying -canvas wall, my friends and I amongst them, arriving home -very white-faced, underneath the brown-red war paint so cunningly -and weirdly distributed on us by the fiend. After -wiping the dust out of my own eye, I remembered the twinkle that -I had seen in some one else’s, and I laughingly exclaimed, “Was -that the ‘thunderstorm’ you recommended me to ‘wait’ for?”</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus58" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus58.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Palace Hotel, Kalgoorlie</p> -</div> - -<p>“We had a narrow escape,” tersely and grimly (I had almost -written grimily), remarked my friend; but he must have rubbed -the twinkle out of his eye and the dust into his temper for he -declined to see the joke; however, as mirth is catching, we -were soon a merry party once more, and I was regaled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"></a>[207]</span> -with “willy willy” stories of roofs being carried for miles, and -of houses being torn down by these huge “dust spouts,” and, -as at intervals I heard the “thunder” in the distance, I -could well believe the dancing, whirling devils capable of anything. -Many good theatrical companies now visit the goldfields, -but the expenses of a travelling company are very large, -the railway fare -from Perth being -about six pounds -each return -ticket first class, -and four pounds -second (there is -no third class in -the colonies). -The hotel tariff -is from twelve -shillings per day -(Palace sixteen), -the smallest -drinks (a big item -in such a hot and thirsty country) are a shilling each, and half a -crown is the usual price for a bath, as before said. There are -no large theatres on the fields, but the managers make the -prices for admission high, the community not caring how much -they spend if they really wish to see anything; in fact, that is -one of their little worries, they are always looking out for something -to spend their money on. Horses, yes, the best procurable, -and they are a very high price. Champagne is from -twenty-five shillings a bottle, and that is the first drink the -lucky miner calls for; his great mania is “shouting,” as they -call it, that is treating wine to everybody they know. “Wives -and families to spend it on?” “Oh, yes; but they are on the -other side,” meaning the Eastern colonies; “I always send -them plenty to live on, and when I’ve made my pile (fortune) -I’ll go home with it; in the meantime I must do something to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"></a>[208]</span> -make life endurable here,” and the Hebe at the bar smiles -sweetly, and for it receives perhaps a diamond bracelet. I am -not speaking of the miner who earns his weekly wages, but of -the man who is lucky in his speculations of shares, or who -owns part of a mine, and when they strike rich, as they call it, -spends his money lavishly. I sat on the Palace Hotel balcony in -Hannan Street one afternoon and watched the crowd passing up -and down; I was surprised to see the women so richly dressed, -elegant Redfern tailor-made gowns and Worth carriage costumes -(although no carriages were to be seen, but plenty of buggies -with dust-covered hoods) were much in evidence; many of the -rich women send to London and Paris I am told for their -gowns. Occasionally a plainly-dressed woman in a tweed or -Assam silk costume with neat sailor hat would pass, probably -a mine manager’s wife or English visitor, but the majority of -the women of the goldfields spare no expense in the style and -richness of their dresses. At the present time the population -of Kalgoorlie, its suburbs, and Boulder City is nearly 60,000. -In a very short time electric tramways will be running, and -extensive swimming baths are now being built. There are -many good churches, which shows that in the rush for gold the -welfare of the soul is not neglected. Goldfields places are -usually looked on as somewhat lawless. I can assure my<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"></a>[209]</span> -readers, however, that those in Western Australia are an -exception.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus59" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus59.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie, Early Days</p> -</div> - -<p>Over the hill, not to the poorhouse, but to the rich Mount -Charlotte Mine, I one morning took my way. From the hill a -splendid view is obtained, and for three miles beyond nearly all to -be seen is mines, their poppet-heads and batteries showing distinct -against the sky. The manager of the Mount Charlotte -Mine was away, so I could not get much information, and so, -like Jo in “Bleak House,” I had to move on. The next mine -is Hannan’s Reward, where gold was first struck (found) at -Kalgoorlie; and although such wonderful results came from -this place at first, the mine has now been outpaced by many -others. I passed dozens more of mines, but did not stop until -I got to the Brown Hill Mine, under the control of Messrs. -Bewick, Moreing & Co., one of the finest on the field. This -mine, as its name indicates, is on the top of a hill, and is a -most imposing-looking one; wealth seems to speak from the -buildings around it. The manager’s house is a splendid bungalow -style of place, replete, I believe, with every modern comfort. -Outside is a tennis court and other evidences of the manager’s -tastes. The offices are large and convenient. The manager, -Mr. Feldman, being away in England, I did not go down the -mine, therefore cannot tell you anything about it; but Dr. -Diehl, who represents the London and Hamburg Gold Recovery -Company in connection with the Brown Hill Mine, has lately -made a most interesting discovery <i>re</i> the treatment of sulphide -ore, likely to be of much value in the mining world. From -this place I went to the Crœsus, thence to Block 45, another -mine that has given big results. Of course there are many -mines that have not proved as rich as those mentioned. Mining -seems to be like fishing: there may be any number of fine fish, -but it does not fall to the luck of all anglers to catch them.</p> - -<p>Away again past more mines, down through Golden Valley, -now past the Oroya, North Boulder, Bank of England, and -Coolgardie Mint—all splendid mines; then up the highest hill -at the Boulder, as this part of the goldfield is called, where<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"></a>[210]</span> -I came to the great Australia mine (Associated). From this -place one has a glorious view of the other great mines on -the Golden Mile, so-called on account of the marvellous -quantity of gold that has been and is still being extracted -from its depths—Lake Mew, Great Boulder, Ivanhoe, Boulder -Perseverance, and Golden Horseshoe. They present a magnificent -spectacle. It is almost impossible to describe in words -the wonders of the golden hills on which these wonderful -mines are placed.</p> - -<p>Close to the Golden Mile is a small square of business places—hotels, -stores, different kinds of little shops, and a brewery; -this was the beginning of Boulder City, but in consequence of -the influx of people and the increasing prosperity of the mines, -it was found necessary to establish the Miners’ City, a mile -farther away, the intervening ground being required for mining. -According to mining laws any ground taken up for that purpose -cannot legally be built on, but miners are allowed to camp there -on sufferance, and the area is therefore dotted over with mushroom-like -tents and canvas houses.</p> - -<p>The Australia is the largest of the Associated Mines. -Everything seen is of the latest date; every appliance that -man’s ingenuity can devise is here. To convey the stone -along the open cut to the mill there is a wonderful aerial -tramway composed of wire cables, on which the trucks run -high up in the air; it is a marvellous way of conveyance, -but more peculiar still is what is here called the “Flying -Fox,” which has an iron bucket on a single rope of twisted -wire. Machinery on the top of the shaft and above the -crushing mill conveys it to its destination; then the bucket -empties as if by magic, and flies back to the bottom of the open -cut, a quarter of a mile journey, to be again replenished. It -seems almost incredible that a girl ever had the courage to take -that journey, and yet one actually performed the perilous -feat. The manager in jest had dared her to do it on her -visit to the mine, and she, being a strong-willed Scotch girl, -took him at his word, got into the new aerial car, flew through<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"></a>[211]</span> -the air, and arrived quite safe at the bottom of the cut, while -every one present held their breath with amazement; and I -believe that all the workmen, on seeing a pretty girl deposited -at their feet in place of the usual prosaic empty bucket, stood -in consternation and amazement, wondering what the clouds -were going to rain next. The underground workings of the -Australia are brilliantly lit with electric light, which shows -up the gleam of the rich gold through the ores so beautifully -as you peer through the light into the magnificent chambers of -oxidised or sulphide ore, you can almost imagine yourself in -Aladdin’s Cave. On the 300-foot level there is a magnificent -chamber or stope, 16 ft. high and 40 ft. wide, from which -thousands of tons of ore have been taken, returning 8 oz. -to the ton. A specimen weighing 1½ cwt. had just been -broken off. It was studded and seamed with rich telluride. -Owing to the telluride lodes, mining presents wonderful possibilities. -There is no knowing what marvels may any day -come to light. The rock-drill, whose motive power is -compressed air, had pierced down 550 ft. There was a large -gang of men down the mine timbering, enormous great poles, -almost tree trunks, were being put in position, propping up the -earth to make it safe. It made me shudder to think of the -dangers of a miner’s life, and yet, comparatively speaking, -there are very few accidents in the mines here. The genial -underground-manager told me that every precaution was taken -in all the mines nowadays. We emerged from the shaft -once more into the light of day. The first thing to strike the -eye on the top were the enormous looking cyanide tanks, -then the amalgamator’s rooms, where we saw all the modern -appliances for extracting the gold, wonderful vats of chemicals -where the rich tailings were lying waiting for the chemical -action to take place, ripple beds, then ball mills, pug mills, rock -breakers, and enormous stamping batteries in their various -houses; then last, but not least, the new roasting furnaces -with their huge boilers, and other parts looking like some -immense military fortifications; these are used for smelting,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"></a>[212]</span> -and cost £100,000. There were 20,000 or 30,000 bags of -ore waiting for treatment, full of gold. It is wonderful to see -the gold being smelted. To stay in the furnace-room for a -minute or two, even before the furnace-door was opened, was -like taking a Turkish-bath. I was quite content to stay on the -outside when it was opened, and to see the man, dressed in an -asbestos suit from head to foot, pull out with a great iron -hook the red-hot pot full of molten gold and pour it like -golden sunshine into a mould. After seeing this man at his -work I thought him a kind of hero, and wondered what he -weighed in the asbestos suit. About 200 yards from the mine -are the large and commodious offices, and the quarters of some -of the managers of different departments. The gold produced -from this mine up to the end of November 1901 was 214,485 -ounces, and the dividends paid amounted to over £258,750.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus60" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus60.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">A Boulder Mine and Offices from Lake View Consols</p> -</div> - -<p>Driving over to the Lake View Mine was not altogether -pleasant, as, when nearly half-way down the steep and stony -hill, my horse stumbled and nearly fell; however, a kindly -pedestrian seeing my difficulty came to my assistance, and, much -to my relief, led him down to the foot of the hill. I then crossed -over to Lake View, which is said to be the greatest gold-producer -of this marvellous field, outrivalling even the famed -Mount Morgan in Queensland, which was almost a mountain -of gold. Mr. Charles Kaufman purchased this wonderful -mine for a company when he was on a visit to Australia; -seeing the wealth and magnitude of the Kalgoorlie mines, he -did not hesitate to pay the sum of three-quarters of a million -sterling, and to take a quantity of shares for himself, -and since that time he has also purchased other large mines. -There is a very large and efficient staff of experts in their -different departments on high salaries. Lake View Consols, -to give the mine its full title, was, until the advent of Mr. -Kaufman, a mine that seemed fated to bad luck. It was at that -time owned by an Adelaide company. The first manager -pronounced it a failure, the second died of typhoid, and the -third, Mr. O’Neill, managed to pay out a dividend of 3<i>d.</i> per<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"></a>[213]</span> -share! This was the first dividend ever paid on the field. -Since then many dividends of £1 per share have been made. -When Mr. Kaufman purchased Lake View he soon had it equipped -properly and started on a new basis. Now, in place of the -meagre poppet-heads and small shafts, a gallows-frame towers -120 ft. into the air, and immense shafts, sending up their continuous -supply of splendid ore, give token of the change that has -taken place. When you go down the mine in the “cage,” as they -call it, you need only close your eyes and fancy you are in an -elevator. When you get down 100 ft. you step out to a drive -running 1700 ft., then on the north side you go 450 ft., and -must not go any farther, because you are near the Boulder -Perseverance ground, which is another rich mine close by. -Here is an immense body of rich high-grade sulphide ore, -51 ft. wide. Teluro sulphide (in which telluride is found) -and sulphide ores differ from oxidised ore, which is usually -of a light colour and shows the gold freely; the other ores -have a silvery-grey appearance, seldom showing gold, but when -treated at the mills and smelting works they frequently yield -a large percentage of it. Down again the visitor goes in the -cage to 500 ft., the mine growing richer and richer to the -bottom. Coming up again, the stope<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> at the 300-foot level,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> -from which such phenomenally rich telluride, assaying 150 ounces<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a>[214]</span> -to the ton, has been taken, shines like a star-bespangled sky on -a dark night. The shares in this great mine have been sold at -£28 10<i>s.</i> At that time the production was one hundred and -twenty thousand pounds worth of gold per month. The immense -quantity of huge timber down below is astounding. I am sure -there must be enough used in timbering this great mine to build -a town. The level at the 100-foot is quite large enough to give -a ball in; the electric light and electric bells are all ready, -and the air is so beautifully cool that this would be an ideal -place for a ball on a hot summer’s night. The production -from this wonderful mine has been enormous, and when one -has been down and seen all I saw below, one does not -wonder at it; it is a perfect marvel of richness. I went -over all the drives, stopes, cross-cuts, &c., and saw everything. -In place of men pushing the trucks of ore below, as is the case -in other mines, horses were drawing 8 or 9 trucks at a time. -One of the horses is a real pet with the miners, and at crib-time -(mid-day, dinner-time) he is unfastened and allowed to walk -about the drive. He always finds out where the men are, and -comes up for bread or cake, which he eats with a relish. He -is lowered down the mine every morning in a net, and is as -quiet as a lamb now; at first, when he was very young, he did -not like the lowering process at all, but he has since got quite -used to it. Such bodies of rich ore have been opened up -that years will be occupied in treating it, the plant belonging to -the mine not being yet large enough to cope with the quantity. -After the magnitude of the under workings, nothing surprised me -on the top, although the rumble and stamping of the batteries, the -hum of the mighty machines, the beautiful bright engines that -seem to work with perpetual motion, the enormous furnaces, -the magnificent cyanide plant, with its wonderful machinery for -extracting the gold, the electricity that seems to fill the -air and almost takes one’s breath away, are all so vast and -wonderful that a sense of something like awe came over one, -and I was not sorry to get into the open air again and see the -blue sky above me.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"></a>[215]</span></p> - -<p>Only five years ago a miner returned to Adelaide, South -Australia, from the West, and called on a sharebroker, giving -him 500 Lake View shares to sell at as high a price as possible. -They were sold for a few shillings, and when the miner got his -cheque he remarked “he was sorry for the ‘bloke’ who bought -them, as he had been working on the mine and knew she was -no good.” Those 500 shares would now be worth several -fortunes to that miner had he kept them. The biter was bitten; -I wonder how he feels at the present day about it?</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus61" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus61.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Overlooking the Great Boulder</p> -</div> - -<p>That Mr. G. Brookman, of Adelaide, was certain five years -ago of the great future of Lake View Consols is shown by a -piece of paper with his calculations on it, now in the possession -of Mr. Fotheringham, also of Adelaide, which reads as -follows:—</p> - -<p>“Reef on Lake View, 3000 feet long, 100 feet deep, equal to -300,000 feet, 6 feet wide, equal to 1,800,000 cub. feet, equal to -140,000 tons; 3 ounces to the ton, equal to 420,000 ounces; -£4 per ounce, equal to £1,680,000; allow £420,000 for cost -of raising and crushing, &c., leaves £1,260,000 available for -dividends.”</p> - -<p>This great mine stands first in the field as a gold-producer, the -total yield in 1900 being 528,368 ounces, and dividends at the -time of writing having been paid to the amount of £1,187,500 -(one million one hundred and eighty-seven thousand five hundred -pounds). When Brookman and Pearce arrived at Coolgardie -where Bayley found his Eldorado, and not finding much there,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span> -went on to what was then called Hannan’s, now Kalgoorlie, -to look at Cassidy’s Claim, they saw plenty of the golden -metal to gladden their eyes. They began to work upon -a reef, but Mr. Pearce, in his wanderings around the then -Bush in spare time, was attracted to some ironstone hills. He -prospected about, and was so well satisfied that he and his -mate shifted camp and began to work on what is now the -Ivanhoe property. Not keeping exactly within the pegged -ground, they discovered a rich leader (a small lode running -into a large one) not far from the camp. This was the first -gold found on the Great Boulder. They then pegged out 20 -acres around each find, and keeping their good fortune to -themselves (knowing that a still tongue makes a wise head), -soon pegged out what is now Lake View Consols. The present -value of these syndicate holdings, if realised, would be about -£30,000,000! So little was thought of the leases at first that -they were called “Brookman’s Sheep Farms.”</p> - -<p>I have a few pieces of really fabulously rich telluride that -were given to me from the same place, the 300-foot level, -which yielded the magnificent specimens sent to the Glasgow -Exhibition. The veins of the precious stuff were nearly four -inches thick. They are so handsome that it seems almost a pity -to break them up and turn them into what is called “filthy lucre.”</p> - -<p>After coming from the mine I, with the rest of a party that -I had been so fortunate as to meet on my visit here, was hospitably -entertained by the manager. I then resumed my journey. -This time I thought myself growing so clever, and beginning to -know so much travelling alone, that, seeing an opening between -two large heaps of what I afterwards discovered to be rich tailings -(from the crushings of the ore from which all the gold has not -been extracted, and when treated by cyanide, which is a -solution for extracting every particle of it, often gives good -returns), I started to take a short cut through. I had, however, -not thought of the air-tram going along with its freight of ore -overhead, and just as we were going through the opening -whirl it went along, frightening the poor horse, who nearly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"></a>[217]</span> -upset the trap. But a second time that day I was saved to -continue my journey, this time by two miners, who were just -emerging from a shed close by, and who said, “Private road, -missus.” However, on seeing my look of distress, and on my -mentioning my business as a lady explorer, they let me pass -on my way again rejoicing. From the side of Lake View on -which I now was, a totally different view presented itself. The -large buildings of the mine completely block the township -of the Boulder, and for a mile ahead nothing can be seen but -mines, mines, mines, and on the flats tents, Hessian camps, -offices, and mine-managers’ houses. Many good-sized places -about here are boarding-houses. The majority of the men -camp and cook for themselves, but some of them merely sleep -in their tents and take their meals at the above-mentioned -houses, usually looked after by two or three women, who do the -mending and washing required. They speak in highest terms -of the conduct of all the men; indeed, from what I saw and -heard, the camps are very well conducted, and I am sure I have -met with the greatest kindness and politeness from the mining<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"></a>[218]</span> -community in general. I drove all round these mines and -camps, but only stopped once to get a cup of tea at one of -the houses, where I found the housekeeper most kind and -communicative.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus62" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus62.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hannan’s Star Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>Hannan’s Star, Boulder Main Reef, and Chaffer’s are the -mines adjacent to the one I next stopped at—the Golden -Horseshoe. Here I interviewed Mr. Sutherland, the manager, -at the office, who sent for the underground boss (as he -is termed), Mr. Morgan, to show me over the mine. To give -an idea of the wealth of this famous mine I must tell you -that, when shares were £8 each, such magnificent finds of -gold were made that they went up in value to £51! On -going below, Mr. Morgan courteously showed me all over -the golden mine which has proved so profitable. He also -showed me some of the most magnificent gold, and specimens -I have ever seen. These were some of those that were found -when the shares went up to the tremendous price before -mentioned. Sometimes the gold is found in solid pieces; when -mixed with quartz, the pieces are called “specimens.” We -went down to the 200-foot level, and saw the wonderful -place where the finds ran for weeks at a rate of 80 ounces and -90 ounces to the ton; 2000 ounces, valued at £8000, were -won in a few days. This was oxidised ore, and at the same -level is still abundant, but not quite so rich as the above -quotations. We then proceeded to the 400-foot level, where -more rich ore and wonderful workings were seen. Then along -a drive down another shaft to the 700-foot level, through stopes -and cross-cuts, picking out more specimens until I was fairly -bewildered. Coming up we stopped at the 400-foot level, -where the rich sulpho-telluride ore showed free gold quite -plainly. Mr. C. D. Rose, the chairman of this mine, estimates -that the monthly production from oxidised ores alone will reach -14,000 ounces, and will be maintained at that. This estimation -has been more than reached, one month’s production of the -mine since that time having been 15,280 ounces of gold.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus63" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus63.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The Ivanhoe Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>When the mine’s great richness was first becoming apparent,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"></a>[219]</span> -a very jovial meeting of the shareholders was held. The shares -had then made a big jump to £17. Previous to the time when -the shares in the Golden Horseshoe were £7 10<i>s.</i> a strong “bear” -attack was made on them. (A “bear,” in mining parlance, is -a speculator who sells stock he does not possess, with the idea -of being able to purchase at a cheaper price later on.) The -mine was at that time “jumped” on account of some legal technicality; -but, instead of this producing the desired effect of a -fall in prices, the shares shortly afterwards rose, and the -“jumpers” made a hasty retreat, sadder but wiser men. A -director of this mine told me of the time, not very long past, when -he advised his friends to buy shares up to as he had himself -done. Some of them acted on his advice, but shortly -afterwards the shares went down to £2 10<i>s.</i> He was then -overwhelmed with inquiries as to what was the matter. After -making a strict examination of the Golden Horseshoe properties, -and seeing the large bodies of valuable ore below, this gentleman’s -advice was to stick to the shares. Shortly afterwards -they rose to £5 and £6, and now, as I before said, they have -been as high as £51 per share, and up to 19 ounces of gold to -the ton of ore has been got. This speaks for itself, and no -doubt it is one of the best mines in the world. I was told a -story about this mine, which at first I thought too incredible -to be taken seriously, but which I am assured is a fact. It is -stated that an old lady recently entered a London broker’s office -and produced the certificates for various shares which she said -she wanted to dispose of, saying she would take £5 for the lot.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"></a>[220]</span> -The broker found most of them to be shares of a valueless -kind, but one represented 500 Golden Horseshoes, which he -sent into the market and sold at £40 each, so that the old lady, -instead of getting £5 for her entire collection, was credited -with £20,000 for one slip of paper alone!</p> - -<p>I made my next move onwards along a narrow road between -two hills. On one side is the Ivanhoe, and on the other that marvellous -mine the Great Boulder. This is the second on the list as -champion gold-producer, having produced over 449,726 ounces. -If each ounce of gold were to be coined into four sovereigns, -these ounces would represent over a million and a half of money, -of which £910,000 has been distributed in dividends. Mr. -George Inglis, well-known in England and on the Continent, -was one of the foundation members of the board of the Great -Boulder Mine, and was instrumental in finding some of the working -capital of the company, and has been deeply interested in it -ever since its inception. The offices of this great mine are -close to it. I had to wait some little time before seeing any one -who would conduct me round, everybody seeming to be up to -their eyes in business. I accordingly mounted a hill to the -open door of a large building, which I found to be the amalgamators’ -room. Here was a feast of gold in bars, in ingots, in -oval shape. It had just been brought from the smelting-room, -and the police escort was waiting to take it into the bank at -Kalgoorlie. I was fortunate in arriving at the time I did. I -had seen gold before, but never to this extent in its newly -smelted state; it was a revelation.</p> - -<p>The manager, Mr. Hamilton, was very courteous to me, and -on my telling him I wished to go underground at once acceded -to my request. It was hardly necessary to show him the letter I -carried with me from the Minister of Mines, Perth, asking all -managers to extend their courtesy and help to me in my travels -on the goldfields. On arrival at the shaft, a crowd of men had -just come up, and another crowd were waiting to go below; -they were changing “shift,” which is the term used to denote -their working time of eight hours. During the week the mines<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"></a>[223]</span> -never stop working, consequently relays of men are required. -In these shifts their hours of labour are changed at certain -times, and so the men are sometimes on what is termed day -shift or night shift.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"></a>[221]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp56" id="illus64" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus64.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Mr. Zebina Lane</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222"></a>[222]</span></p> - -<p>When I descended the 800-foot level the men who were -there were taking their mid-day meal, most of them sitting -down on the great stones. Their bright dinner cans, which -contain three compartments, one for tea, one for bread and -meat, and one for sweets, looked very clean and nice, while the -many candles that lit up the otherwise gloomy cavern, the -picks, shovels, and other mining implements lying about, helped -to make up a characteristic scene of underground life.</p> - -<p>The diamond drill was at work. It was wonderful to see how -the diamond penetrated the hard rock, for the quartz must be -nearly as hard as the diamonds are themselves. Mr. Hamilton -gave me a piece of the core of the drill, which I shall place -among my treasures from the mines. I peered down the -300 feet below where I was, as the mine went down to 1100 -feet, but it was so dark and wet that I had no wish to descend -any farther, so mounting the cage I again ascended, stopping -at two of the other levels and climbing all around them, -and seeing all the wonders beneath the earth, and collecting -more specimens.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"></a>[224]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</h2> - -<p>The Ivanhoe—The Famous Stope—Climbing the Ladders—Boulder -Perseverance—The Rock Drill—Down 500 Feet in a Bucket—Blasting -the Rock—British Westralia Syndicate—Mr. Frank Gardner and our -own Zeb. Lane—Kalgoorlie again—Wages on the Mines—Yield of the -Goldfields.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The Ivanhoe Mine is quite close to the Great Boulder, and -next morning I set out to take a look at that, although I must -confess I was getting weary, having walked many miles underground -in the last few days. However, I was determined to -go over the 6 biggest mines of the field, so away I went. -The manager received me in the kindest manner, and offered -me his room to prepare in, and told everybody to do everything -I wished, as he had important business at Lake View, and -could not take me down himself. The important business -afterwards turned out to be that he was taking over the -charge of the Lake View Consols as well as the Ivanhoe. -Accompanied by three gentlemen visitors and the underground -manager, I descended the great Ivanhoe Mine. I had a particular -wish to see an enormous stope, 1500 feet long, about -which I had heard; so at the 600-foot level we got out -and went along a long drive until we came to what looked like -a hanging ladder. If I wanted to see the famous stope I had to -mount this ladder. It was very narrow, and I felt rather dubious -of my climbing powers; however, it was only about 60 feet high, -so I ventured. I climbed up very carefully and got into the -stope quite safely. After walking along for a few feet I found -we had to bend down to get along; next we came to a small -aperture through which we had to creep; then we could not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"></a>[225]</span> -walk any more, but had to go on our hands and knees, like -our Darwinian ancestors. I had not bargained for this, but -having come down below to go over the 1500-foot stope, I -went on. So, gradually creeping and sometimes walking -doubled up, we got to the end where the men were working. -They all threw down their picks and spades and looked in -amazement at me coming along that stope; they never did -it. There was a ladder over 100-ft. long by which they -went up and down to their work. I had been told about this -ladder, but I felt afraid of the 100 feet ascent, and preferred -walking, as I thought, through the stope. I must here explain -that the stope was originally quite deep enough for any one to -walk comfortably in, but after the lodes—mineral veins containing -ore—have been taken out, the stopes are filled in with -refuse tailings, which have been treated by cyanide, and later -thrown out for refuse and used as filling-in stuff. Of this I -had traversed 1500 feet, bumping my head innumerable times -against the hanging wall. Oh! I was tired, and the worst -of it was that I had to go back, or else go down in mid-air -on a 100-foot ladder. After sitting on a boulder for a few -minutes’ rest, and accepting many compliments from the miners -about my courage, I decided to descend the ladder, which I -did in fear and trembling, but got safely to the bottom, for -which I felt duly thankful; and we went down to another -level, and saw much more rich stone waiting to be taken up; -then up to the 400-foot, where the sulpho-telluride ore, worth -10 ounces to the ton, was being taken out; then to the 200-foot -level, where the rich oxidised ore is. There is a million’s worth -of ore at sight here, and yet in the first year of the mine’s -existence many shares were forfeited for non-payment of 6<i>d.</i> -calls. The market value is now over £2,000,000; production -of gold, 304,848 ounces.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus65" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus65.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Roll-up at the Boulder Perseverance Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>After coming up from the Ivanhoe Mine, a telephone message -was given me that the underground manager, Mr. Flynn was -waiting at the Boulder Perseverance Mine to show me over -that. So, hastily untying my horse, who had been taking<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"></a>[226]</span> -his food under the shade of the offices of the Ivanhoe, I -hurriedly drove over to the Boulder Perseverance, and after -making a change in my toilet, such as was necessary, jumped -into the cage and went swiftly down to the 300-foot level. -Here we stopped and walked through the long drive to the -stopes, where much richness was to be seen; it was a -veritable jewellers’ warehouse. Mr. Flynn gave me a pick -and told me I could knock out some sulphide ore for myself, -which I did, and many beautiful specimens from this mine -are in my collection. While here I heard a tremendous -rumbling noise, and thought the mine was falling in. On -inquiry I found that the miners were blasting rock 200 feet -below us at the 500-foot level. I expressed a wish to go -there, and Mr. Flynn said it would not be safe for half an -hour, and then I should have to go down in a bucket, as the -cage only went to the 300-foot level. After walking all over -the stopes on this level we went up to the 200-foot level, -and I saw all the wonderful oxidised ore. I learned much<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"></a>[227]</span> -during my travels underground. Oxidised ore is always found -on the top levels. At a depth of 300 feet the sulphide ore, -which contains telluride, is reached.</p> - -<p>Going through the various drives we often met miners walking -along to different parts of the mine. We were all carrying -candles, so could peer into each other’s faces, and the look -of surprise on some of them at seeing a strange lady rambling -about underground was quite amusing. Then we would come -on a group of workmen at a stope; then sounds of the rock-drill -would make me curious to go in its direction. The heat -is fearful in places where the rock-drill -is at work making holes -for the dynamite charge -which is to blast out tons -of rock. The men were -just going to begin a new -hole, so I asked to be -allowed to start it. The -sensation was like an electric -battery; I held the drill -too tight, I suppose. However, -I persevered for fully -five minutes, and when we -looked at the machine I -was told I had drilled quite a quarter of an inch of rock, so I -felt very proud, especially as they told me no lady had ever -touched the rock-drills down here before.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus66" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus66.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Lane’s Shaft, Boulder Perseverance Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>By this time I was ready to go down in the bucket, so we -took another walk of about a quarter of a mile along the drive -to another shaft called Lane’s Shaft, named after Mr. Zebina -Lane. In this shaft was the bucket. Never having been in -a bucket before for the purpose of a downward journey of 200 -feet I felt a tiny bit nervous. However, the journey was perfectly -safe, and when I arrived at the bottom I saw a grand -sight which I shall never forget. There was still much smoke -hanging about from the blasting. Some 20 men with candles<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"></a>[228]</span> -alight were waiting about in the gloom, some of them partly -black from handling powder. Over 70 tons of sulphide ore -had just been blasted out, and lay about in great pieces and -boulders. The cave—for such it looked—fairly sparkled with -richness, the different minerals in the sulphide rock shining -like diamonds. I climbed over the great boulders and went all -over the stope, picking out any sparkling bits that took my -fancy, and a miner was sent on ahead to try the sides for fear -of any loose rock falling on me. The lode here is 41 feet wide, -and very rich indeed. It was pretty rough climbing, I can -assure you, but I would not have missed it on any account. -On the return journey I went up the entire 500-foot shaft in the -bucket, and although deeply interested by all I saw, I was -not sorry to breathe once more in the sunshine away from -dynamite and rocks.</p> - -<p>Some idea of the wealth of this mine may be given by the -fact that the last shipment from the western lode averaged -17 ounces per ton. The high-grade oxidised ore in the upper -levels, of which I spoke before, is an immensely rich body of -mineral, continuing in richness for an eighth of a mile. Another -lode, on a lower level, near the Lake View Consols, is nearly -three-quarters of a mile long, and so phenomenally wide and rich -that even Americans, who are generally apt to throw cold water -on our mines, admit that its equal is unknown in the world; in -fact, the Boulder Perseverance shows every sign of becoming -the richest mine on the field, for the more it is opened up the -better it looks and the richer it becomes.</p> - -<p>Mr. Zebina Lane and Mr. Frank Gardner, besides controlling -the Boulder Perseverance, the Boulder Bonanza, Great Boulder -South, and other rich mines in Western Australia, have more -recently taken over Hannan’s Public Crushing Company, -Central Australian Exploration Syndicate, and Collie Coalfields, -lately floated with a capital of £150,000. At the banquet given -to Mr. Lane last year previous to his departure for London, he -said that on this coalfield there was enough coal at sight to last -the colony for 20 years. It was Mr. Lane who in 1893 placed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"></a>[229]</span> -the now wonderful Great Boulder Mine before London investors. -The Boulder Perseverance Mine shares could at that -time be bought for a few shillings, now they are of high -value, and Mr. Lane has made a large fortune out of -his various mining transactions. Among the properties in -Western Australia turning out among them the enormous -quantities of gold of which we know, the properties partly -controlled by Mr. Lane have turned out nearly half. Western -Australia has no truer friend than he; he battled on behalf of -the colony for years before prosperity came; went all over the -goldfields, endured all kinds of hardships on the arid plains, -and earned his success fairly. The other two gold mines on the -Kalgoorlie field belonging to the British Westralia Syndicate, -and under the part control of Mr. Lane, namely, the Great -Boulder South and Boulder Bonanza, are lower down the field, -over the Golden Hill, and near the Great Boulder and Lake -View Consols. The aforesaid mines join each other, and no -doubt the continuation of the famous lodes of these great mines -will be eventually picked up by the Great Boulder South and -Bonanza. The diamond drill is being used to advantage, and -great things may be looked for in the future from its developments.</p> - -<p>The British Westralia Syndicate was formed by Messrs. -F. L. Gardner and Zebina Lane in October 1894, and registered -on the 6th of that month with a capital of £80,000 fully paid-up -shares, the Syndicate really consisting of only four members, -the other two being the late Mr. Barney Barnato and Mr. Woolf -Joel, who was assassinated in Johannesburg.</p> - -<p>Since the incorporation of the company, regular dividends of -50 per cent. per annum have been paid, and last year a 50 per -cent. bonus was divided in addition. As I said before, -the shares now stand high in the market, and show every -likelihood of rising to £20. The Syndicate’s palatial offices in -Moorgate Street are, if not the finest, one of the finest suites -in the city of London. Mr. F. L. Gardner is the chairman -of the company, and Mr. Z. Lane the managing director and -superintending engineer.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"></a>[230]</span></p> - -<p>In addition to the above-mentioned mines, Mr. Lane has -recently taken in hand three properties in the Nannine country, -Upper Murchison, all of which have developed into paying -properties and are making good returns.</p> - -<p>Mr. F. L. Gardner, chairman of the British Westralia -Syndicate and its offshoots, has long been associated with -Australian mining, but was drawn into West Australian ventures -by his old friend Zeb. Lane. His speculations in Great -Boulder, Perseverance, Lake Views, Crushing Company, Boulder -South, and the ever-increasing dividend-paying British -Westralia Syndicate, have amply repaid him for his courage.</p> - -<p>An American by birth, with all the strength of mind and will -of a big investor, he is a tower of strength in the market, -known as a man of strict integrity and sound financial position, -being in fact a millionaire, he has now the strongest following in -London, and with Mr. Zebina Lane to engineer the mines which -he controls, will soon be, if he is not already, the biggest man in -the Western Australian Market, which more particularly concerns -this book and this colony than any other market in which he -may operate. Pity it is, for the sake of Western Australia, that -we have not more combinations of such straight-going men as -these two have proved themselves to be; then the investing -public would have more confidence in mining speculations, and -would certainly have, in horse-racing phraseology, a run for -their money.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"></a>[231]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp51" id="illus67" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus67.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><i>Frank Gardner</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"></a>[232]</span></p> - -<p>Mr. Z. Lane, generally known as “Zeb.,” may be described -as the pioneer of successful gold-mining in Western Australia. -Born, brought up, and educated to the mining industry, he for -many years successfully managed the great silver mines of -Broken Hill, New South Wales, and was unanimously elected -the first mayor of that city when it grew into a municipality. -He left Broken Hill in 1893, and paid an extended trip to -Western Australia, where, after careful examination, he fixed -on what is now known as the Golden Mile; but as Western -Australia was then so little known, he had difficulty in getting -working capital for the various holdings and had to drop some<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"></a>[233]</span> -of them, but pinned his faith to the Great Boulder and the -Perseverance (certainly two of the best), and floated them both -in London amongst his own friends. He started the first -10 stamps on the Boulder on April 10, 1895, afterwards increasing -them by degrees to 30, and has since that date been -instrumental in shipping over 15 tons of gold from the mines -under his individual control—surely a wonderful record in a -new waterless country, with so many difficulties to be contended -with! He is a man of few words, but of iron will and determination, -and is one of the most popular men in Western Australia—has -been repeatedly asked to allow himself to be elected to -Parliament and to the Mayorial Chair of Perth, but prefers to -look after his mining interests. Perhaps he is quite right in -doing so. He is a Justice of the Peace for every colony in -Australia, is a good public speaker and debater, and will be -greatly missed in Western Australia should he decide to settle -down in London, as many of his co-directors in the various -companies are anxious that he should do.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus68" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus68.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hannan’s Public Crushing Company</p> -</div> - -<p>Crossing another road I came to the Brookman Boulder, a -very fine mine. Mr. Brookman has amassed a large fortune and -settled in Perth, and is spending his money where he made it, -instead of going away to other countries to live, as most of the -lucky people do. Mr. Brookman and Captain Oats recently<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"></a>[234]</span> -paid a visit to Ballarat, the Queen Gold City of Victoria, and -at a banquet given in his honour, Mr. Brookman said that -in a few years Kalgoorlie would, no doubt, be as fine a city -as Ballarat, an opinion with which I most emphatically agree. -I must mention that this is one of the places that caused such -a stir in the world fifty years ago, on account of the wonderful -goldfinds there.</p> - -<p>Two of the largest nuggets found in the district were the -Welcome in 1858, weight 154 lbs., value £8872; and the -Welcome Stranger in 1869, weight 190 lbs., value £9000. I -trust this digression will be pardoned.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus69" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus69.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Central Boulder Mines and Manager’s House</p> -</div> - -<p>There are two large and splendidly furnished clubs here, -namely, Hannan’s and Kalgoorlie for the well-to-do, and several -institutes, affording opportunities for reading and recreation to -the miners. I must not forget to mention the fine park, cricket -ground, and racecourse.</p> - -<p>Having finished my journey round the wonderful mines, I -feel how poor has been my description of them. It has been -almost impossible even to mention half the important discoveries -that have been made in these marvellous chambers of -the earth. I have tried to explain some of the developments -that stand out most strikingly. The rapid progress that is -being made in all ways makes it quite safe to say that what -has already been done is as nothing to what will be done in -the future, and that by the time the new century is a few<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"></a>[235]</span> -years old, and all the latest processes of extracting gold -from the ores are in full swing, we may hear of such great -returns as will amaze the most incredulous. As I go along -the three miles between Boulder City and Kalgoorlie, and think -of the wonders I have seen, it seems quite safe to say that very -soon the whole three miles will be covered with buildings and -the predicted population of 300,000 an actual fact.</p> - -<p>The scale of wages on the field is as follows:—</p> - -<p class="center">MINE MANAGERS’ ASSOCIATION SCALE.</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <th><span class="smcap">Occupation.</span></th> - <th colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Rate per Day.</span></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th><i>s.</i></th> - <th><i>d.</i></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Timbermen</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Rock-drill men</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Miners (wet)</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bracemen</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Truckers</td> - <td class="tdr">10</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Blacksmiths</td> - <td class="tdr">15</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Labourers</td> - <td class="tdr">10</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Carpenters</td> - <td class="tdr">15</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Millmen</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Batterymen</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Battery boys</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Engine drivers, 1st</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pitmen</td> - <td class="tdr">16</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Assistants</td> - <td class="tdr">12</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Miners (dry)</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plattmen</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tool sharpeners</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Strikers</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Draymen</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fitters</td> - <td class="tdr">15</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Masons</td> - <td class="tdr">15</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Feeders</td> - <td class="tdr">10</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cranide labourers</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Engine drivers, 2nd</td> - <td class="tdr">11</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>There are more than 6500 men working in the Kalgoorlie -mines, and over £28,000 weekly is paid in wages. The cable -from the Government to the Agent-General for Western -Australia, London, October 1901, gave the crushing returns -of the colony for that year as 1,580,950 ounces, valued at -£6,007,610, making a total gold production of £27,726,233 -sterling. Several millions of money have been paid to the -shareholders of the various mines in dividends since the -Adelaide and Coolgardie Syndicate took up the ground at the -Boulder, and that ground, which was chaffingly alluded to by -the prospector’s friends as a “sheep farm,” has certainly produced -many “golden fleeces.”</p> - -<p>The Kalgoorlie field has yielded in its short life over thirty-one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"></a>[236]</span> -tons of gold, Western Australia’s total output since it first -entered the world’s list as a gold-producer in 1886 is sixty-two -tons of solid gold; now, with the new machinery that is being -erected, with the latest methods for extracting gold from ore, it -will not be surprising if the output from each of our golden -giant mines should shortly be doubled. In all the mines I -have been down there is enough amazingly rich ore at sight to -keep the crushing stamps going for years. Miners should be -proud of having brought Western Australia into the position of -the greatest gold-producing country in the world.</p> - -<p>The Witwatersrand, South Africa, has but a narrow belt of -gold-producing country, thirty miles long. In Western Australia -the auriferous belt is over one thousand miles in length, -and three hundred miles in width, and out of a territory of -975,920 square miles, the area of the goldfields is 324,111 -square miles. Bear raids and slumps may come and go, -unscrupulous speculators may cause depression in the share -market through bad reports for their own gain, “but the gold -is here,” and energy, pluck, and perseverance, will overcome all -the difficulties there may be to obtain it, in this truly golden -West.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"></a>[237]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus70" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus70.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Saturday Afternoon at Kanowna</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</h2> - -<p>Kanowna—The Great Alluvial Rush—Big Nuggets—“The Joker”—Father -Long’s Golden Sickle—Nobility Represented—Bulong.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Looking at the town of Kanowna, White Feather, at the -present time, one can hardly believe that two years ago there -were 20,000 people there. It is now a quiet settled little -town, the outskirts riddled with holes, like an immense rabbit -warren. Even what was once the large cemetery is now dug -up in all directions, with just a little plot fenced in where burials -had really taken place. The other portion, which, owing to the -richness of the surrounding ground, was thrown open for -digging, had, of course, not been used for burial purposes. I -first went to Kanowna in November 1897, at the commencement -of the great rush. I wanted to see a rush on the spot, -and accordingly started one morning by coach from Kalgoorlie. -On arrival at Kanowna, quite a stranger, I had to carry my -own portmanteau around and look for a hotel to stay at.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238"></a>[238]</span> -There was no sign of a man about the little town. I afterwards -found that all the men were up at the Lead, as it was called. -At this time there were only three hotels in the town, now -there are more than twelve. I was fortunate enough to secure -the only vacant room in Donnelon’s Hotel; so, after getting -off some of the red dust of the 12-mile coach ride I started for -the said Lead, about half a mile from the hotel. When I first -saw it I was amazed, not only at the number of tents and bough-houses, -the thousands of windlasses at work, the thousands of -men with tin dishes washing the ore for gold, the thousands -of cradles (not babies’) being rocked for the same purpose, but -at the thousands of men rushing about in all directions in a -state of wild excitement. People at that time came from all -directions to see the wonderful alluvial field—miners to take up -claims, speculators to buy out claims, men to buy gold, men to -buy ore, and plenty of people only as spectators, who wanted -to see the gold as it was washed off. In this, however, they did -not always succeed, for those men who had time to do it had -made bough-sheds and pitched tents, and had their cradles -inside, where they could wash their ore in privacy, and -not let everybody know how many ounces would go to the -dish. It was my good fortune to make friends with many of -the mining-parties and to see the gold washed off, often 8 -and 10 ounces to the tin dish. Many nice little slugs were -given me by those kindly miners as a souvenir of my -visit. Many days in succession I visited the Lead, as it was -called; much kindness did I receive, and many a billy of tea -was boiled for my refreshment.</p> - -<p>At the beginning of the Lead the first claim was held by -Sim and Gresson; the latter joined the second Australian -Contingent, and has since been fighting for our Queen in Africa. -George Sim, the original finder of the rich cement ore, told me -that he had worked there for 18 months, with very poor results, -and yet felt sure of ultimate success, so that he was not surprised -when one day he “struck it rich,” as the miners’ saying -goes, and since then he and his partners have been taking<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239"></a>[239]</span> -out cement, full of rich gold, as fast as pick and shovel can dig, -and have taken over £10,000 worth of gold out of their ground. -The next claim, held by Morris, Long, and party, also turned -out very rich. From 60 tons of cement they obtained 555 -ounces of gold, 200 ounces of this being taken from the dish, -that is, obtained merely by washing the stuff in the dish and -picking out the gold; the rest was treated at the battery. The -cement is a greenish-looking stuff, more like pipeclay than -anything I have ever seen. Most of it crumbles up in the -hand when touched, and the gold is plainly visible, but there -are occasionally some hard lumps as well. There were hundreds -of other claims around here, notably that of P. McManus, -Huntington, and party. Poor Paddy McManus has since joined -the great majority. He was one of the best and kindliest of -men on the field and was regretted by all. This claim yielded -an enormous quantity of gold. Then Tassy O’Connor, Doyle, -and party’s claims, called the Arctic Circle and Klondyke, -yielded the partners a fortune each. Ninety tons crushed for -Jackson and party yielded the handsome return of 497 ounces -of gold. At Casey’s Claim, the day I was there, they had just -washed off some wonderfully rich coarse gold. They had -about 40 ounces of the precious metal in a frying-pan, no other -article being available to hold it since all the tin dishes were -required for gold washing purposes. Some nice pieces of -gold, running to about 27 dwts., are often found in these -dishes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus71" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus71.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Deep Lead, Kanowna</p> -</div> - -<p>These claims, with numbers of others just as rich, were on -the Main, or Fitzroy Lead; on the right, and to the north, was -the North Lead, where more riches have been found. Eaton -and party refused a large sum for a ninth interest in their -claim; they were making hundreds a week, and none of them -felt disposed to sell out. Close to this claim was the famous -Donegal. While I was there four buckets of ore were brought to -the surface thick with gold, and when washed were found to -contain nearly 300 ounces. There was great excitement -on the Lead that day, although the miners keep things of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240"></a>[240]</span> -that sort as much as possible to themselves. It is reckoned -that £12,000 worth of gold has been obtained from this claim -alone. The Red, White and Blue Company have also taken -phenomenal quantities of gold from their claim near the -Donegal, about £600 or £700 worth of gold having been taken -from the earth every week. Many of these men who had now -struck such wonderful good luck had previously worked for years -for what in mining parlance is called “tucker” (food). No doubt -pluck and perseverance are the two essentials required, and if -everybody could see the 12,000 miners on Kanowna field as -I saw them, and could hear of all the hardships that the -majority of them had endured prior to striking this rich field, -no one would deny that their good fortune was deserved. -Another very rich lead was called the Golden Valley. Here -the ore chiefly obtained was that called “pug”; it proved very -rich, but there was great difficulty in extracting the gold from -it until a special process was discovered. The Death Valley -and Cemetery Claims also proved to be very rich. Enormous -quantities of gold were taken from Kanowna in 12 months; -but it is difficult to obtain really accurate returns of an alluvial -field, as many miners keep quantities of their gold, while others -carry it away and sell it at different places; but I saw with -my own eyes the enormous richness of the field, and, if I -never see another alluvial rush, shall consider I was in luck<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241"></a>[241]</span> -when I saw Kanowna, not only because of the information I -received, the money I made by being advised in what to -speculate, but for the mere sake of seeing the place as it was -in the full tide of its golden glory. There were no very large -nuggets at this rush, but about two years before, at a place -called Black Flag, one weighing 303 ounces was found; it -was called “The Joker.” In company with it were four other -nuggets and a piece of quartz containing 60 ounces of gold. -The Joker was an exceptionally bright piece of gold, three-cornered -in shape, with a bit out of one base. The other -nuggets weighed 73 ounces, 51 ounces, 37 ounces, and a little -over 10 ounces respectively. All of this gold was found at a -depth of 6 feet, and in the course of one week’s work, the total -weight being 537 ounces. One day all Kanowna and the -surrounding country were roused to a state of tremendous -excitement by the report spread by Father Long, the parish -priest, that an enormous nugget, weighing 1636 ounces, valued -at £6500, had been found close by, and had been named the -Sacred Nugget, or the “Golden Sickle.” When the news reached -Koolgarlie and Coolgardie, parties were organised, horses and -buggies, cabs, carts, bicycles, and every other available vehicle -taken possession of, and thousands of persons started for -Kanowna field. In the meantime no authentic information -could be obtained in Kanowna as to the place from which this -tremendous lump of gold had come, the lucky finders keeping -that a profound secret. However, search-parties were organised, -and set off to look for the spot whence the nugget came, some -one having given the slight clue: “It was near the Dry Lake.” -Off the parties went to the neighbourhood indicated, and a very -lively drive they had. It took an hour to reach the Lake, and -there a consultation took place. It was decided to skirt along -the Lake, but nothing came in sight except a boundless track -of low bush. Another halt took place, when a journalist among -the search-party, more venturesome than the rest, climbed a -steep hill, and at once gave a loud “Hullo!” Every one -thought the object of the journey had been attained. The spy<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242"></a>[242]</span> -had discovered tents some distance away. Off went the horses -and vehicles at a hard gallop. The tents were all a dream, -however. There were no tents, and there was nothing in -sight. It was resolved to turn round and try in another -direction. At another likely spot a halt was again made, and -here occurred the most amusing incident. One of the vehicles -had been left by all its occupants except a lady. Everybody -was engaged in individual searching when a loud cry from the -lady recalled every one to the drag. Perhaps she had been -more fortunate. “Look there!” said she; “look at all these -men running and shouting;” and lo and behold, about 200 men -were seen rushing down an adjacent hill toward the party, each -with a branch of a tree. It appeared, however, that the newcomers -had only been following the conveyances. Off went -the vehicles again, down the Lake, up the Lake, and round the -Lake. Everywhere did these parties go, but no gold or signs -of habitation were seen. Father Long was besieged by people, -over 300 visiting his camp to find out where the lucky spot -was, but the priest said it was told to him under the seal, and -he could not divulge the spot. After searching all over the -country near to Kanowna no discoveries were made, and -the searchers returned sadder but wiser men. You may be sure -Father Long came in for no small share of abuse from thousands -of disappointed people. The truth of this remarkable story has -never come to light, but it is quite certain that no such nugget -was ever found, no official notice of it having been recorded, -and no bank ever having had charge of it. Father Long has -since passed away from earth and nuggets, dying of typhoid -fever in Perth Hospital in May 1899, and what was his share -in reporting the find will never now be known. Many people -are inclined to think that Father Long really thought he did -see the nugget, and therefore spoke of it in good faith. A -version of the affair given me by a good authority at Kanowna, -after it had all blown over, was that a certain party of men, -who owned one of the richest claims in the neighbourhood, had -all the gold they had collected for some time at one of the hotels<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243"></a>[243]</span> -and that one of the partners, an Irishman, placed all the lumps -and pieces of gold together in the form of a sickle, and called -it the “Golden Sickle,” the collection of pieces looking exactly -like a huge lump of gold. Father Long, being near at hand, -was invited to see the splendid specimen, which he immediately -blessed and called the “Sacred Nugget.” The partners did not -undeceive him, but bound him to secrecy concerning the names -of the party who found it and the alleged locality from whence -it came. This promise poor Father Long faithfully kept, -thereby gaining for himself the condemnation of the multitude. -None of the partners were brave enough to own what they had -done, and Father Long had to bear the burden to the last.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus72" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus72.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Alluvial Diggings, Kanowna</p> -</div> - -<p>In those times Kanowna was a place never to be forgotten. -At night, after work was over, thousands of men used to flock -into the little town, and the three hotels being quite inadequate to -their wants, grog-shops existed in dozens and plied a big trade. -I must say, however, that, considering all things, Kanowna was -in general strikingly orderly and peaceful. Of course there<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244"></a>[244]</span> -were occasional fights. We witnessed several from the balcony -of the hotel, the only place where we could sit in the hot -summer evenings. The hotel was crowded, hundreds were -unable to get served, and men were waiting five deep in the -bars; all drinks cost 1<i>s.</i> The hotel-keepers made rapid fortunes -from the bars, and were, besides, partners in claims on the -Lead. Two hundred and thirty thousand ounces of gold -have been obtained from this great alluvial field. It is well -known that miners, more especially the prospectors, are -very kind-hearted and resourceful men. If they “strike -it rich” they spend money freely, and are generous to a fault -to any old mates they may meet who have not been so fortunate -as themselves. It cannot be denied that, for strong and able-bodied -young men, life in the West, with its freedom and many -chances of good luck, is one not to be despised. Men from -surprisingly different classes are to be met on the goldfields, -and yet, so to speak, all classes are alike. I met during my -travels on the Lead several university men who were trying -their luck with the pick and shovel, and were not ashamed -of their clay-stained moleskins. There are a good many new -chums (arrivals), easily recognisable. The nobility is also -represented; one trooper who was there belonged to a noble -family in England. Another, a sprig of Scotch nobility, was on -one of the large mines adjacent to Kanowna, and was said to -be a fine fellow and universally liked. One meets quite a large -proportion of men and women recently arrived from the old -country, who seem always to make for the goldfields by preference, -while most Australians seem to love the towns and want to -stay there. There are several deep-level mines within a short distance -of Kanowna, none of them, however, calling for special -mention, with the exception of the White Feather Main Reefs, -which occasionally gives a good yield, and the managers of -which look on it as having better things still in store; recent -crushings have been highly satisfactory, and future ones are -expected largely to increase the profits of the shareholders.</p> - -<p>Bulong is a mining township 12 miles from Kanowna, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245"></a>[245]</span> -as several good finds have been made there, one of 500 ounces -of gold, I should not be at all surprised to hear of a more -sensational find some day, followed by the inevitable rush. -The Queen Margaret Mine has given good returns, and there -are a number of men on the alluvial ground who make -a good living, and a little to spare, all the year round. The -ground has not been thoroughly prospected yet, and its worth -remains to be decided. Sixteen miles from Bulong, at Black -Hills, two men, who had been prospecting, lately came across -a nice little find of 2000 ounces of gold from a few tons of -quartz. The usual subsequent rush to rich finds of course -took place. In October 1900 a large nugget weighing 13 lb. -was found by a man named Eddy, at Kurnalpi, about 40 miles -from here, not 200 yards from the place where the nugget -weighing 168 ounces was found the year before by John -Symonds. Kurnalpi has been one of the richest districts of -the goldfields, and who knows how soon some still more sensational -finds may startle us all!</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246"></a>[246]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus73" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus73.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Hill End Mine—Broad Arrow</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</h2> - -<p>Broad Arrow—Menzies—Rich Mines—Lady Shenton—Luncheon in -the Caverns of the Earth—Hon. H. J. Saunders—Welcome Tea and -Cake—Native Murder—A Lost Prospector—Cake of Gold—Box-seat -of the Coach—Mount Malcolm—Gold Escort—Windmills and Fresh -Water.</p> - -</div> - -<p>I went back to Kalgoorlie this time by train, the railway having -now been open over twelve months; stayed at Wilkie’s Hotel, -opposite the station, and found it most comfortable as well as -convenient. Wilkie Brothers, who were the successful tenderers -for the Coolgardie Railway (which brought them a profit of -£300,000) own this hotel. The next morning I set out for -more goldfields, and arrived at the Menzies after an interesting -journey through various small townships, Paddington and -Broad Arrow being the best. There are some large mines at -Paddington giving excellent returns. Broad Arrow, a very -nice little place, has lately been the scene of an alluvial rush, -and the usual population of 300 was quickly increased to 3000. -There are a post-office, four hotels, several stores, and a good -many shops, as well as some nice dwelling-houses. It is now a -very thriving place of some importance and a scene of bustling -activity. Shops which a short time ago would not let at any -price now command such rents as their owners scarcely dreamed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247"></a>[247]</span> -would ever be possible. There are several very rich claims -which have bottomed on rich gold; in fact, gold is everywhere. -The extent and value of the golden ground can only be conjectured. -One claim, called the Blue Duck, was exceptionally -good; so is the Maltese Cross; while the Bird’s Nest is a -veritable golden hole. The names of these claims struck me as -being very peculiar; another rich one, owned by men who, -until they struck this, had had a continued stream of ill-luck, is -called the Battlers’ Reward, and indeed they richly deserved -their splendid find, the gold from which stands out to the wash -in halfpenny-weight pieces.</p> - -<p>Farther along the line is Bardoc, from which place much rich -gold has been won. It was at Bardoc that an accident recently -happened in one of the mines, a poor man being killed by five -tons of rock falling on him.</p> - -<p>Twenty-six miles before we reached Menzies was Goongarrie, -which a few years ago made a great sensation in the -mining world.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp92" id="illus74" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus74.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Part of Lady Shenton Battery</p> -</div> - -<p>Menzies was the nicest small mining town I had seen. -There was a wonderful air of prosperity about it. As I walked -up the principal street it seemed almost to say, “This is a good -place,” and the people were extremely kind to the stranger in -their midst. Until quite recently Menzies was one of the “back-block” -towns, only accessible by coach from Kalgoorlie, a distance -of 90 miles. The people in what we Australians call coach-towns -always seem more genial and warm-hearted than those -who can pop into a train and be whirled along to the metropolis, -and Menzies only having had the train service recently has -not had time to get spoiled. I think it is because of their -isolation that people in these places, as a rule, hail strange -faces with more pleasure than others do. There are some very -nice houses in Menzies, and the hotels are especially good. -The Grand Hotel (I can speak from experience) is a model of -comfort. A very well-built post-office and court-house adorn -the town, and there are many other substantial buildings in -the place, which is, no doubt, a most important centre of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248"></a>[248]</span> -business and industry, and which has made great strides -during the last twelve months, especially since it received a -new impetus from the advent of the railway. The town is -literally surrounded by mines, not only of gold; copper has -been found near in lodes of 50 feet wide, that bear 5 dwts. -of gold as well as 60 per cent. of copper. Menzies is quite a -young town, and is named after Mr. Menzies, the explorer, -who, in 1894, went prospecting from Kalgoorlie to see if he -could discover any more -Kalgoorlies. After -travelling some weeks -he discovered some rich -“shows,” and telegraphed -to the syndicate, of which -Sir George Shenton and -the Hon. H. J. Saunders -are head, to that effect. -Application for ground -was made and accepted, -and works afterwards -commenced, with what -success may be imagined -from the results of that noble mine the Lady Shenton, which, since -1897, has paid 12 dividends of over £88,000, besides expending -large sums of money on machinery, &c. The Lady Shenton Mine -occupies 36 acres of land. There is a splendid electric-light installation, -both on the surface and underground, at the main -shaft as well as in the crushing-sheds, and in many other places -where it is useful. The total output of the mine is 97,278 -ounces of smelted gold, exclusive of gold from tailings and -concentrates, the latter sometimes giving a very high percentage -of gold, since as much as 327 ounces had been taken from 73 tons -when I was there; 14,000 tons of tailings were awaiting treatment. -Some time ago, when Sir Gerard Smith visited the mine, -luncheon was served to the visitors in the 300-foot level. I -happened to be at the Lady Shenton Mine at “crib” time, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249"></a>[249]</span> -after “crib” the miners went out with their football to have a -game before beginning work again. They were fine looking -specimens of colonial manhood, and seemed thoroughly to -enjoy their friendly game.</p> - -<p>The sleeping tents of the miners are some little distance -from the mine, but there were several dinner tents close by. -The men form themselves into little parties of five or six, -taking it in turns to act as house boy, or, as I should say, -tent boy. In the day time the menu is cold, and looking at -the stock of tins of preserved meats (elegantly termed -tinned dog), fish, jam, milk, cake, and vegetables, it is easy to -see that they do not neglect their meals. Why should they, -since they are in the receipt of high and regular wages?</p> - -<p>The next large mine is the Queensland Menzies, from which -there have been large returns. There are some other first-class -mines from which great things are expected. Four miles from -Menzies is Kensington, where there are more good mines, also -two splendid breweries. I next travelled across the country -for about four miles, all alone, with only the pony I was driving -for company; but happening, with my usual luck, to strike the -right track and not get lost, I came to the Four Mile, where -there is a little township (small settlement), and a magnificent -mine called the Menzies Consolidated. There are 120 men -engaged on this mine, who form quite a little colony by themselves. -There is a fine tennis court, where several of the officials -of the mine were enjoying a game. Mrs. Strickland, the sub-manager’s -wife, insisted on getting tea and cake for me, and -seeing that my horse also was refreshed after the heat of the -day. On my way back to Menzies by another road, a metalled -one this time, I passed many prospectors and dry-blowers, who -all seemed quite satisfied with what they were getting. When -I got in sight of Menzies I took a short cut through the Bush, -and found I had to pass through abandoned alluvial diggings -and several shut-down mines. I was glad to get back again on -to the hard road and to Menzies, for the shades of night were -falling fast. Next morning I learned from the paper that a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250"></a>[250]</span> -murder had been committed by natives and the body found -near Kensington the day before. I must have passed quite -close to it, and am very glad I did not see it. Many crimes -are committed in these remote parts, the perpetrators of which -are never discovered. A long-standing mystery has just been -solved: a man named McInnes disappeared about two years ago; -he was known to be a thorough Bushman, and fora few days no -notice was taken of his disappearance. However, as he did not -return search-parties went out to look for him, but he was -never found. Shortly after his supposed death his brother -came from Victoria, took charge of his affairs, and vowed that he -would never leave the colony until he had solved the mystery -of his brother’s disappearance. This has apparently been done -by a blackboy named Tiger, who found the skeleton of a -man at the Bullarchi Rocks, 12 miles off, and Mr. McInnes, -the brother of the missing man, being sent for, identified the -remains as those of his long-lost brother. The poor fellow -had evidently, in Western vernacular, “done a perish,” like -so many others, in the course of searching for gold.</p> - -<p>An extraordinary meteor was witnessed here a short time ago. -A magnificent ball of fire shot across the heavens from the -north-west to the north-east, leaving an almost straight trail -of light behind it. At the head of this trail of light appeared -a ball of fire, which became gradually diffused around the -luminous trail or meteor in convolutions resembling the -movements of a serpent. For some moments the display bore -a likeness of a pillar of light with a serpent twined around it. -Gradually this semblance was transformed into the figure of a -man standing upright, with his arms partly spread and his -hands clasped. This form grew gradually into an attitude as -if the figure were about to spring, the head and shoulders being -inclined forwards and the legs slightly drawn up, and in this -attitude it remained till the luminosity, gradually becoming paler, -was absorbed in the silver light of the breaking day. Altogether -the phenomenon lasted from 10 to 15 minutes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251"></a>[251]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus75" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus75.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MESSRS. A. FORREST AND J. DUNN ON A PROSPECTING TOUR</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252"></a>[252]</span></p> - -<p>To the west of Menzies is Mulline, where there are some<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253"></a>[253]</span> -very rich mines. Mr. De Baun, of Perth, has a mine there -from which he recently brought to Perth a very nice little cake -of gold weighing 447 ounces, valued at £1700. Then on the -east side there are Yerilla, Pendinnie, and Eujidine; here the -Nita Mine, lately called the North Fingall, has recently had a -fine crushing. At Pendinnie, 120 miles from Menzies, a find -lately took place, and the scene along the road was a repetition -on a smaller scale of the rush to the Boulder a few years ago. -Camel and horse teams crowded the way, and everybody was -smitten with the feverish race to get to the promising spot; -nothing stupendous has yet been found, but the place is -good and fair results have been obtained. The Waihi Mine, -about 32 miles from Menzies, is one of the latest sensations, -and promises to be of great value. Much of the stone is being -broken out, showing rich gold, and, on being tested, gave -results from 6 to 20 ounces per ton. Although only discovered -in October 1900, the lucky prospectors in November were -offered £20,000 for the mine by a syndicate, and since then -a company has been floated and over a hundred thousand -shares taken up.</p> - -<p>I went on by coach to Mount Malcolm from Menzies. -Certainly there was not much but sand and scrub to be seen in -the way of scenery. We arrived at Niagara, the end of the first -30-mile stage, quite ready for dinner at 1 o’clock. This little -place did not present a very attractive appearance; in fact, it -was most remarkably dull looking. The mining district of -Niagara is scattered, but there are some good mines about. -After the 60-mile coach drive I was very pleased to see the -lights of the little town of Mount Malcolm appear, which -is the most typical mining place I have ever seen. As I -strolled down the one street in the morning I said to myself, -“I am indeed getting away from town life, and shall now see -real mining business to my heart’s content.” The coach journey -is indeed terrible, the road being almost one sand patch, and -the horses having to walk a great part of the way, so the sooner -the railway comes the better for all parties concerned. There<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254"></a>[254]</span> -seemed to be some grass growing about Malcolm, which was -quite a fresh sight for me, and I am sure a boon for the horses -and their owners in these parts, where fodder is so expensive. -Then the beautiful supply of fresh water is a blessing to -every one, and a great aid to the development of the country, the -work of digging for gold being rendered so much easier than in -the sterile wastes of country where water is scarce. Mount -Malcolm might almost be called Windmill Town, on account of -the windmills over the wells; nearly all the public-houses and -many private places have their own water supply. The gold -escort had just gone down, taking the month’s gold to Perth. -I saw it start from the post-office, which is quite a nice -large one for a mining township. The warden’s offices, or -court-house, are nearly opposite—such a funny place!—just two -Hessian tents with bough-sheds built over to protect them from -the sun. (A new warden’s office has since been built.) There -is no lock-up here, so any one who misbehaves is chained to a -small tree not far from the court-house and left there all night. -This seemed to me a custom more fit for the barbarous dark -ages than this enlightened century. A little while ago a man -was chained up for being intoxicated. It appears he woke from -his tipsy sleep in the night and felt very thirsty. He tried to -get the chain off his leg, but could not. The tree they had -chained him to that night did not happen to be firm enough -in the ground, for he pulled and pulled until he got it -uprooted, and then made his way down the street to an -hotel, dragging chain and tree after him, and with his blanket -fluttering in the wind made night hideous with his cries -and woke the whole town with his noise. As the authorities -could not give him a month under the tree for this, -they packed him off in the coach next morning to the nearest -gaol.</p> - -<p>There are not many mines in the immediate vicinity of -Malcolm. The Richmond Gem was under exemption, also at -that time under a cloud, but it had been a good mine, and -will, no doubt, recover itself. Another large mine about half a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255"></a>[255]</span> -mile out is the North Star, where very good results have been -obtained. There are many men employed here, and on Saturday -nights they come into Malcolm and make the little township -lively. A novel procession passed up the street while I was -there; it was a new engine for the Malcolm Mohr battery, drawn -by 14 horses, and caused quite a flutter of excitement. Malcolm -was comparatively quiet, as there was a rush to Mertonville, -18 miles off.</p> - -<p>The ex-Premier, at a recent visit, said that when he was -last in the district, 30 years ago, he stood on and named -Mount Malcolm, and in those days never thought that it would -be the centre of a great mining district. On the earlier -occasion he was at the head of a small exploring expedition -sent to see whether the reports of the natives that white men -had been murdered there were true; it was thought that these -white men might be members of Leichhardt’s expedition.</p> - -<p>During my stay at Mount Malcolm I was shown many really -beautiful specimens by the managers of some of the principal -mines. Many of these were from deep levels, and would, I am -sure, much surprise many people who are sceptical about the -richness of the mines in these parts. I received some very -pretty little specimens, souvenirs of my visit, which I shall -always value very much. There is no lack of money; every -one appeared to be well off. The following story may serve -to show what a lucky miner will sometimes do after he has had -a good crushing or found some good specimens. A man who -had unearthed a nice slug—30 ounces—in the Lake Way district -came into Malcolm for a spree, and on one occasion, while -drinking “not wisely, but too well,” he upbraided the Hebe -behind the counter for wiping the glasses with an old towel. -The delinquent pleaded poverty as an excuse, and straightway -the accuser threw down ten sovereigns and suggested the -purchase of a new towel. Another man at another township, -who had a splendid claim, and had taken over £2000 worth of -gold from it, has now not a penny, because every time he -realised on his gold he immediately spent the whole sum in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256"></a>[256]</span> -hotels. As there are but two of these in the township, they -have made good profits from this man’s mine. When he has -spent all his money, the hotel-keepers put him into a cart and -drive him out to the mine to recover himself. After he has -done so, he usually sets to work for a month or two, and -unearths some more nuggets for another spree (drunk).</p> - -<p>Shortly after breakfast a few friends and myself drove to -some nice gardens a little way from town. Although the -weather was very warm, everything was delightfully fresh and -green, the flowers were smelling sweetly, and the vegetables -a perfect picture. What a blessing is plenty of fresh water! -Any quantity can be got here by digging a well, and the experts -from the Goldfields Water Supply Department, who were here -recently, say that the country between the hills is really a -subterreanean reservoir extending for miles. We drove on -to the Mount, which is five miles farther away. A splendid -view of the surrounding country for fully 30 miles is obtained -from the Mount. The Trigonometrical Station here is very -interesting. We had lunch on the very top of the hill, and -returned to Malcolm in good spirits, having passed a most -enjoyable day.</p> - -<p>Daseyhurst, 35 miles from Menzies, is a coming goldfield, -and North’s Consolidated Blocks, owned by Mr. J. H. North -and Mr. W. E. Millar, may yet rival the fame of Great Westralian -Mount Morgans, of which mine these gentlemen were -the pioneers. Mr. North has recently successfully floated a -company in London to further develop the North Consolidated, -and we expect to hear great things in the future from this -promising mine.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257"></a>[257]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus76" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus76.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Merton’s Find, Mertondale</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</h2> - -<p>A New Field—Mertondale—Stupendous Richness—Gold, Gold everywhere—A -Lucky Prospector—Garden in the Bush—Murrin! Murrin!—A -Welcome Surprise—Western Australian Mount Morgans—Golden -Hills—Blackfellows on the Trail—The Lagoon.</p> - -</div> - -<p>My investigations at Mount Malcolm took me some days, so, -after a good rest and pleasant time at that very lively little -township, I started one Friday, at 7 o’clock, for the new goldfield -of Mertondale, to which there was a rush. One morning -Malcolm folk woke up to the startling news that a new and -phenomenal rush had begun 18 miles off. Soon everybody -was on the <i>qui vive</i> to see it. All the vehicles in the township -were loaded, and the male population started <i>en masse</i> for the -new find. It turned out to be a great one, and many stories -have been told me concerning the richness of it. There was -nothing of great interest on the road to Mertondale. A bough-shed -off the road in the distance, pointed out to me as the -place where a prospector had lately chosen to shuffle off this -mortal coil by cutting his throat, and that just as his claim<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258"></a>[258]</span> -had struck gold, was about all that varied the monotony of the -journey. The Australian Peer Mine was the first seen on the -road. It was the one at which Merton and Gallagher were -working when Merton went out one day on his bicycle to look -for a lost horse and found the lucky hill which has since yielded -so much gold. Mr. Merton said that when he discovered it -he did not think it was so good, until he commenced breaking -the stone he picked up on it, and found in every instance that -it contained gold. After discovering the reef he applied for a -lease, and put on two men to work at carrying out the quartz. -The stone had to be taken two miles to the Waitekari Battery, -but in the short space of two months £3206 worth of gold was -crushed. A short time afterwards, Mr. Merton, who was a -poor man at the time of the find, purchased a 20-head battery, -and now crushes the stone on the spot where it is found. The -reef of solid quartz is 100 feet wide, and traverses the whole of -Merton’s area of 36 acres. He said that he would want a -higher price, cash down, for his holding than has ever been -paid for any mining property in Western Australia; so, from -a poor man, a few months have made this lucky prospector a -millionaire. On arriving at Mertondale the sound of the battery -waked the stillness of the morning. The township is very -small as yet, merely a few Hessian houses and tents, but -I saw before me the hill, with the battery in full work, in which -I was interested. So I asked the driver of the coach to take -me there, which he did as a very great favour, for he was -carrying the mail and had not yet been to the Bush-house -post-office. However, as it was a very hot day, gallantry to -the fair sex prevailed and the mail had to wait. I got down -from the coach at the foot of the hill, and at the battery-house -found Mr. Robinson, the manager, who kindly took me round -and showed me everything of interest. First he went to the -spot where Merton picked up the first rich stone. Plenty of it -was still lying about. We went down into the open cut (or -quarries) where the men were digging out the stone. I took a -pick and dug out a piece myself, striking rich gold at the first<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259"></a>[259]</span> -stroke. Several other pieces followed, and I keep them as -specimens. We then went down the underlay shaft, on the -western side of the big quarry. It was 12 feet deep. I got -down by means of a rope, two of the men at the bottom holding -their spades against the sides of the shaft for me to put my -feet on. I managed to make a successful descent and began to -use the pick again with much success. I could see the gold -running through the rock quite plainly, so, having permission to -do so, dug out several nice pieces, after which I essayed to climb -the rope to the surface again, and, assisting myself by sticking my -feet upon the jutting pieces of rock on the sides of the shaft, I -soon got out of the rich hole. I then walked all over the hill -and found many pieces of quartz lying about, all containing gold. -Mr. Robinson afterwards took me to the battery and showed -me the plates into which the gold and amalgam run after being -crushed by the mill. I scraped some of the rich stuff off the -plates; to my disappointment it looked like silver, but Mr. -Robinson explained to me that this colour is caused by the -action of the mercury used in the process, and that when -smelted pure gold appears. Some idea of the power of the -mercury may be given by this fact: I put in paper the piece -which I had scraped off and placed it in my purse, in which -was a gold ring that I had just put there to take to be repaired. -Next morning, when I went to take it out, the gold ring was -gone, but a silver one remained. The jeweller had to retort it -(put it in fire) to regain its colour. Merton’s Hill is, no doubt, -a perfect mine of wealth, and, so far, all on the surface, as the -deepest digging then was the 12-foot shaft I have mentioned. -Over £40,000 worth of gold had been taken out in the few -months since the beginning of the rush, besides fully 20,000 -tons of rich stone that will give 7 or 8 ounces to the ton, and -as every ounce is worth nearly £4, a nice little sum is looking -at lucky Merton out of the stone.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> There are many other claims<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260"></a>[260]</span> -on the field, but the one on the hill is the most valuable. It -gives gold, gold everywhere. I was so much taken with this -wonderful place that I pegged out an 18-acre lease for myself, -and am hoping to strike a rich patch on it at some not far -distant day. In the Golden West one never knows when luck -may come to one.</p> - -<p>It was great fun and hard work pegging out that lease. To -enable one to do so, in the first place one must be provided -with a miner’s right, which costs ten shillings per year; this -document enables the holder to take up any ground he or she -desires (not previously taken) in mining country; after the -lease has been approved by the Warden of the Goldfields, -one may start and dig or put men on to dig, and the gold found -would be private property; if, however, any one dug and found -gold without these preliminaries, the precious metal would -have to be handed over to the Warden as the property of the -Government.</p> - -<p>Behold me then (knowing all this, and having secured a -miner’s right before I left Perth) accompanied by some kindly -miners and the lady under whose roof (canvas) I was domiciled, -with my sleeves tucked up and a spade in my hands digging -holes for the pegs to be put in, which must be done personally; -as it was an 18-acre lease the distance between the four -pegs was considerable, and required some walking to be done -in the hot and dusty morning. However, I successfully -planted my pegs, marked my number on them, and after paying -the fees in the Warden’s Court at Mount Malcolm on my return, -I became a leaseholder.</p> - -<p>Another rich find had lately been made at Wilson’s Creek, -30 miles from this place, by two prospectors named -Paddy Crowley and Dick Donovan. Over twelve months ago -they found some alluvial gold there, but until a few months since -nothing phenomenal; then they found a lode at a depth of -10 feet, with rich leaders running in all directions. One of the -partners went into Malcolm the other day with a bagful of -specimens weighing 372 ounces, and the other partner is digging<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263"></a>[263]</span> -out more as fast as he can. Mr. Hamilton, of the Great -Boulder Mine, Kalgoorlie, recently visited Mertondale, and -gave it as his opinion that the place would turn out a -second Great Boulder and the Flying Pig Mine a second Golden -Horseshoe. As yet all the gold obtained has been found near -the surface, and if the deposit continues down lower the possibility -of incredible wealth lies in this wonderful spot. As yet -Western Australia’s surface seems only to have been scratched -in a few places. If the bodies of ore prove to go down, -Mertondale bids fair to outrival the Boulder, Kalgoorlie.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261"></a>[261]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus77" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus77.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MR. ALICK FORREST INSPECTING DUNN’S SHAFT NEAR MOUNT MORGANS</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262"></a>[262]</span></p> - -<p>The weather being intensely hot—109°—I decided to return -to Malcolm in the moonlight, and a friend succeeded, after a -great deal of trouble (for horses and vehicles are not yet very -common here), in borrowing the only horse on the field, and -managed to get an old buckboard buggy to drive me down. -Camels are the usual mode of transit in this district, but I -refuse to ride these animals.</p> - -<p>Starting the next morning by coach from Malcolm at half-past -five for Westralian Mount Morgans, I was fortunate in -having the box-seat of the coach. A cool breeze had sprung -up in the night, no doubt accompanied by a willy willy, -which, as I told you before, is a terrific whirlwind of dust -that sweeps along everything before it, and frequently carries -verandahs away bodily and deposits them on the roofs of -adjoining houses, besides removing tents as it passes. On -arrival at a little hotel at 8 o’clock I felt quite ready for breakfast, -and wondered what kind of fare we should get in these -remote parts. Nearing the place, which rejoices in the name -of Bummer’s Creek, a fine vegetable garden surprised me. It -looked very refreshing to see the nice green garden after nothing -but sand and mulga-trees for 10 miles. On going into the hotel -(a tin one) evidences of comfort out of the usual order of “back-blocks” -travelling appeared. Many little dainties were on the -table, and we were served with an excellent breakfast, fresh -eggs, fresh milk, and hot scones coming on us as a complete -surprise. There were two lady passengers besides myself:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264"></a>[264]</span> -Victorian girls who were on their way to an engagement at the -next hotel, where one of them was to be a “companion” at a -weekly salary of £2 10<i>s.</i></p> - -<p>Twelve miles farther on we reached Murrin Murrin, where I -stayed for a day. Here I visited the Malcolm Proprietary, and -was much interested in the works and management of the mine, -a fine one, giving good returns. An interesting feature is the -tailings hoist, worked by a compressed-air plant. Returning -to the Murrin Hotel for dinner, I was surprised at the delicate -way in which it was served, at a table with beautiful napery, -elegant silver, and glass ware. On becoming acquainted with -the little landlady, I was no longer surprised, for I found her a -cultured lady, who invited me to stay a few days as her guest, -and I thoroughly enjoyed the quiet change from the roughness -to which I can never accustom myself.</p> - -<p>There is a great deal of copper about Murrin, and many -copper mines are being worked with good results, the Anaconda -taking the first place.</p> - -<p>On arrival at Mount Morgans I found it quite a flourishing -township. Twelve months ago there were no houses, but now the -place is increasing wonderfully. The Westralian Mount Morgans -Mine is less than a quarter of a mile from the township, and is -on a hill overlooking the surrounding country. The large -machinery on it made it look very imposing. From the hill -Mount Margaret is visible, a township now quite deserted, all -the houses having been bodily moved to Mount Morgans, and the -hospital to Laverton, another rising mining place, the former -name of which, British Flag, was changed to Laverton in compliment -to Dr. Laver, who has been mainly instrumental in -bringing the place into prominence and attracting an inflow of -British capital.</p> - -<p>There are some very valuable mines here, as well as the -Westralian Mount Morgans, Guest’s Mine being the next in -importance, and rapidly coming to the fore as a gold-producer. -A company in England has recently been floated with a quarter -of a million of money to deal with this mine. The reefs<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265"></a>[265]</span> -are very large, and known to extend over 20 miles. The -Westralian Mount Morgans, which bids fair to be one of the -biggest gold-producers of Western Australia, is named after -Mr. A. E. Morgans, the Member for Coolgardie, the largest -shareholder. There was an enormous quantity of ore waiting to be -crushed, and, although the gold is too fine to be seen by the naked -eye, it realises from ½ ounce to 3 ounces per ton. Thousands -of tons of this ore, sufficient to keep the battery going for five -years, are visible, waiting to be taken out. Occasionally some -rich pockets of -gold are found, -the rock simply -glistening with -the precious -metal. The -output of this -mine is very -large, and nearly -200 workmen -are employed. -Water for -crushing purposes -not being -abundant, a pipe-line was laid to an extensive lagoon 6 miles -away, and now brings an ample supply. The cyanide plant -can treat 2500 tons of tailings monthly. Two thousand cords -of wood are neatly stacked by the mine ready for use, and -more is obtainable at a short distance.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus78" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus78.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Westralian Mount Morgans Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>The working-men’s club and library, a very nice building, -built of mud-bricks in their spare time by the men, who are -very proud of it, faces the mine. The term “mud-bricks” may -need explanation: the bricks are made from a kind of reddish -soil found here, and when moulded into shape look very well.</p> - -<p>The first hotel in Mount Morgans had just been opened when I -was there. I had great difficulty in getting accommodation, and -was obliged to share the room of the landlady’s daughter. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266"></a>[266]</span> -proprietor was doing a roaring trade. There was a large dining-room, -which was turned into a dormitory at night. Visitors -were constantly coming and going, so much being heard on the -lower fields of the recently wonderful finds. The post-office is -as yet a very primitive place, merely a canvas tent with a bough-shed -over it; but new buildings are going up in all directions -as fast as they can be built. Land brings a good price, plots -now fetching as much as £300 (which six months ago could have -been got for the pegging out). When a goldfield is proclaimed, -the warden of the place gives permission for people to take -up ground for residential areas. Then comes a wild rush to -get in the first pegs. These pegs are to mark the ground which -an applicant desires to take up. When the warden’s permission -was given, at a court held at Mount Margaret, numbers of men -hurried to Mount Morgans to peg the best plots of land. Some -went on bicycles, some on horses, and those who arrived first -of course got the best choice. One well-known man had an -old racehorse which he had “kept dark,” as they say, and he -outpaced them all and got the choicest plot on the township. -He has since erected the second hotel there, and sold it, I am -told, for a very large sum before it was completed.</p> - -<p>Very few women are yet on the field, and as I sat writing in -the only little parlour, all the male population seemed to walk -past the open door (the room being too small and hot to shut -it) and to gaze at me as if I were something rare and remarkable.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the few golden hills, the country was -very flat, and cyclists were constantly arriving. The country -around Morgans is very pretty in some parts, and there is -plenty of nice grass growing. Every coach coming up from -Menzies was crowded with miners and prospectors, who, having -heard so much of this wonderful district, where a plentiful -supply of water is to be obtained, were getting out as fast as -possible. Not far from Mount Morgans, a mine, which is -reported very rich, has lately been discovered by Mr. Dunne, -who found the Wealth of Nations Mine at Coolgardie. Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267"></a>[267]</span> -Alick Forrest is largely interested, and lately paid a visit of -inspection to it.</p> - -<p>It is a very pleasant drive of six miles to the now deserted -township of Mount Margaret, and three miles farther on is the -Mount itself, from which a grand view of the country is obtained. -The enormous Lake Carey (salt) stretched far away in the distance. -This is one of the innumerable salt lakes of Western -Australia, and with the glorious sun shining on it it looks like -a lake of gold. Sir John Forrest was the first white man to set -foot in this district, and stood on the Mount 30 years ago, when -he named it Margaret after his mother and his intended wife.</p> - -<p>As I returned to Mount Morgans in the cool of the evening, -a very large tribe of blacks (natives) appeared on the scene, -but they were very peaceful, and asked me for “bacca” and sixpence, -which the king having obtained, they all appeared satisfied. -They were dressed in civilised clothes, and looked quite fat. -“White-man’s tucker,” as they call it, and which they beg for -as they go along, seemed to suit them. They had just lit -their camp fires. The aborigines’ means of fire lighting is -by wood friction, and as it takes a long time to get a spark -they usually carry fire-sticks, which keep alight a long time -and save them much trouble. They often bring into the townships -or camps pieces of gold which they have found in the -bush, for they know they will receive something, although -they do not know the real value. They know, however, the -superior value of silver to copper, being aware that they can -get much more “bacca,” or food, for a silver piece than for a -copper one, and when they take their finds to any one, asking -“how much this fella?” meaning “what is it worth.” If it is -a small find, and they are told the value in pennyweights, they -will say “Bael (no) pennyweight, that fella shillingweight.” -(The native, in his attempt to talk English, terms nearly every -person place, or thing “fella.”) They told me in their broken -way that this tribe had travelled from Kalgoorlie, and was -going to the Murchison, looking for a renegade blackfellow -called “Kangaroo,” who had transgressed their laws, and whom<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268"></a>[268]</span> -they meant to kill. Let us hope, for “Kangaroo’s” sake, that -they never found him.</p> - -<p>Mount Wilga is a very rich property which lies on the other -side of Lake Carey, is in a country that might almost be called -undiscovered. But Mr. G. W. Hall has discovered its richness, -and sent up a manager and gang of men, who are working -away with great vigour. The lode is as big and rich as any one -could desire. Some of the ore from a good depth that has been -assayed has yielded 20 ounces to the ton; how much equally -rich will be got remains to be proved.</p> - -<p>Although the supply of water for mining purposes at Mount -Morgans is not adequate, there is plenty for domestic purposes, -the wells sunk in many parts of the township giving -a good supply. In the rainy season, which, however, seldom -comes, the lagoon that supplies Westralian Mount Morgans -Mine with water is a huge lake, and teems with waterfowl. -Kangaroos and wallabies sport around its banks, and give -great opportunities to the sportsmen, who during other parts -of the year have to let their guns lie idle.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269"></a>[269]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus79" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus79.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Mine at Laverton</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</h2> - -<p>Laverton—Excitement among the Miners—Bachelors and Grass -Widowers—More Souvenirs—Lucky Discoveries—Erlistoun—Lost—Eagle -Nugget—Euro Mine—Hospitality in the Bush.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The coach to British Flag, or Laverton, turned out to be a -large kind of conveyance with three open seats and no cover; -consequently, as the day had been hot, I was glad when we -drove into the township at 8 o’clock in the evening, for -I was fairly tired out. Every one in the place was looking -out for the mail, which only goes up three times a week. -Several gentlemen whom I had known in other parts of the -colony were here, and having heard that I was to arrive by -this coach, were waiting to receive me, and three pairs of -stalwart arms were held out to help me down. I was -escorted into the hotel, and from the time I arrived until I -left was the recipient of so much attention from the numerous -and kindly fellows as to be almost bewildered.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270"></a>[270]</span></p> - -<p>The very comfortable hotel was kept by three bachelors, -one looking after the hotel business and the other two after the -store which they also own. Wages up here are very high: -cooks get £3 10s. per week, and two young women, one of -whom acts as housekeeper, while the other attends in the -bar, were receiving £5 per week! Another young woman -was making a small fortune by washing and mending the -clothes of the gay bachelors, who, having plenty of money, -do not mind what they pay for work done for them. The -whole of the country seemed to be a vast auriferous area, -and thousands of miles of rich country higher up yet are -absolutely unprospected.</p> - -<p>Horses being very scarce, I was indebted to Mr. Campbell -Shaw for the use of his horse and buggy during my stay. -Mr. Shaw drove me out to the Augusta Mine, of which he is -manager. This little mine is very rich, and had just been -bought from the three original prospectors for £2500 in cash -and 1300 shares. There was no battery there as yet, and so -the stone raised was taken to the Hawkes Nest Battery, 9 -miles away, every morning by a 60-camel train, the camels -returning at night for their next morning’s load. The country -around is really pretty, and from the hill on which the Augusta -Mine stands you can see the houses at Mount Morgans, 20 -miles off, through the clear air. Some very fine specimens -have been sent from this admirable little mine to the Glasgow -Exhibition, and I was fortunate to get some myself. The -camps here were all very neat and tidy, and yet there was not -a woman on the mine, all the men being bachelors or grass -widowers. I intended to go down the shaft, but there had been -an accident the day before, and two young men had been -injured—happily, however, not very seriously—so I thought -discretion the better part of valour and did not go down. As -no women were at the mine I volunteered to do a little nursing -by putting cold bandages on the injured men’s arms, and -making them nice cool lemon drinks, for which the poor fellows -were very grateful.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271"></a>[271]</span></p> - -<p>Going back to Laverton, just as the sun was setting, I -thought the little township looked very flourishing. It is -wonderful how quickly these places spring up! A few months -ago only a few tents marked the spot which then was called -British Flag. We stopped at Dr. Laver’s old camp and -surveyed the little township with wondering eyes, and two -lucky prospectors coming up gave me a pretty little nugget -they had found that day. These men had previously struck a -patch in an abandoned shaft near where they were camped a few -miles out. They thought they would go down and look all -over it, and did so with such perseverance that they found a -leader. Following it up, they discovered it to be 18 inches -wide, and eventually came across a rich pocket from which they -afterwards took £4000 worth of gold.</p> - -<p>Driving into the township we went down to the post-office, -not a Bush one, but really a nice building. As it was the mail -night all the folk were there waiting for their letters. Most -of the shops and houses are built of galvanised iron, and are -very hot during the day; but this drawback has to be endured, -for the place is in the Mulga country, where the trees are very -small and only fit for firewood, and the distances are too great -to bring timber from elsewhere. The Western Australian -Bank had a very nice place; it was one of the best buildings -there.</p> - -<p>I was now over 600 miles from Perth, the capital, and had -reached the very last township in the Mount Margaret district.</p> - -<p>Erlistoun is another rising mining place, where there have -recently been some rich finds. It is 60 miles from Laverton. -Several old prospectors have been there for years, and have -quite lost the customs of civilisation, so much so, that one old -man called Jack, on hearing that one of the miners had brought -his wife to the Erlistoun, and that she, having a goat, had brought -it up with her (at a terrible inconvenience, as you may imagine), -in order to have fresh milk in her tea, remarked: “I shall pack -my swag and go farther back, now that women and goats are -arriving here; this is no place for me.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272"></a>[272]</span></p> - -<p>I saw some marvellous specimens, more gold than quartz, -from the Erlistoun, and should not be surprised to hear any day -of a tremendous rush there. Consignments of plump wildfowl -from beyond Mount Black and the Erlistoun are frequently -sent to Perth, and the country about is said to be very -fine.</p> - -<p>The Craig-i-more was the scene of my next mining visit. This -mine belongs to Sir Donald Currie, and, like most in this district, -is worked at the expense of the owners without the aid of the -outside public as shareholders. The machinery is very fine. -I found the people most hospitable; they made tea for me, and -one of the managers presented me with several valuable native -weapons and curiosities, which I was proud to add to the -already fine collection in my pretty home at Claremont.</p> - -<p>Next day I set out to drive myself to the Euro Mine, about 12 -miles from Laverton, and refused all offers of escort, wishing to -explore the country myself. All went well for about seven miles, -then I came to two roads, did not know which to take, and of -course took the wrong one. After going on for about a mile -the track grew very indistinct; I found I was on the wrong -one, and presently lost it altogether. However, knowing by -the sun that I was now going quite in the opposite direction, I -turned round, found the track, and determined to trust to luck -and keep to the left. When I had gone on for about a mile -the track began to get very indistinct, again being woven into -others in a most confusing way. The wind having risen made -it also very dusty and disagreeable. I now felt completely -lost, but drove on hoping to strike a road once more. Presently, -a few yards to my right, there appeared a huge “willy -willy.” It interested and amused me at first, but presently it -whirled nearer, too near for my fancy and also to suit my -horse, who needed no urging on. Surely I heard a shriek. -No! it was only the horrid “willy willy”; then began a race, -and “willy willy” was edging nearer. I turned my horse’s -head and let him gallop in the opposite direction; “willy -willy” had turned too <i>and was following us</i>. Half mad with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275"></a>[275]</span> -fright I gave my horse his head, who, by-the-by, took a small -rut as if he were out with hounds, the buggy and poor I taking -it also. But where was “willy willy?” Right away back, -slowly dying (perhaps of laughter at giving us such a fright). -I slackened speed, and, looking around, was surprised to find -that we were nearly back at the Junction. We had struck the -road again somehow, the horse, perhaps, knowing his way -better than I did. After all, “willy willy” had done us a good -turn. “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody good,” I said to myself -as I straightened my hat and drove sedately down the road.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273"></a>[273]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus80" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus80.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MINERS’ CAMP, LAVERTON</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274"></a>[274]</span></p> - -<p>Seeing smoke rising amongst the trees, I drove over to the -place, hoping to find a camp where I might get water for my -horse. I found the camp and one solitary man working by it, -who had been in the neighbourhood prospecting for months. -He asked me to give my horse a rest, offering to attend to him -and also to make some tea for me, which hospitable offer I -gratefully accepted. While the “billy” boiled he told me much -about the hardships he had endured for many months. “But -now,” said he, “luck has turned; look here, ma’am.” At the -same time he unearthed from the ground an old jam tin, which -proved to be full of little lumps of gold. For months, he told -me, he had been fossicking (that is, searching the top ground), -and looking for shows of gold, and one day had struck a patch. -Picking out one little piece he said, “That’s the first bit I -found, and you are the first white woman I have seen for -months, so I’ll give it to you for luck.” The piece was almost -exactly in the form of an eagle, and is now one of my gold -treasures. He said that he had often been without food, or -the money to obtain it, but had subsisted on the kindness -of other prospectors, who had helped him from their often -scanty store, and of the storekeepers who had given him tick -(credit). (I have since heard that the man afterwards struck -an immense find, and is now thoroughly successful.) Bidding -my hospitable entertainer “good-bye,” I again started on my -journey and soon found myself at the Euro, not having met -even a solitary kangaroo on the road.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276"></a>[276]</span></p> - -<p>In the early days this mine was known as Quartz Hill, and -the company owning it was unlucky. Thousands of pounds -were spent, but nothing much was got, and the mine was finally -abandoned; but some prospectors, who often have a liking -for fossicking on an abandoned spot, thought that it had not -had a fair trial, and two men, named Champion and Mason, -determined to give it another. Knowledge or chance led them -to continue a costéen, and they were not long coming on -stringers (thin courses) of rich quartz. Mr. G. W. Hall eventually -came upon the scene in company with Mr. A. W. Castle, -and these well-known gentlemen were not long in making a -proposition to the prospectors, from whom they shortly afterwards -bought the mine for a considerable sum and renamed it -the Euro.</p> - -<p>There is every appearance of a brilliant future for the Euro. -There is a large body of ore in sight. The reef is 10 feet wide, -and some of it gives assay equal to the rich Kalgoorlie claims. -Many nice houses are being built for offices, manager’s house, -and stores. Farther on is the Sons of England, another rich -property acquired by Mr. Hall.</p> - -<p>At the Euro I was most hospitably entertained by the -manager’s wife. There were two other visitors at the mine that -day, and we made quite a merry party in the cool Bush-house, -where we were invited to a very nice lunch.</p> - -<p>Mount Weld was the object of my next day’s journeying. I -did not lose myself this time, but on the way came across -some prospector’s camping, and stopped to have a talk with -them. They showed me a bottle full of gold that they had -recently got. One of them, the old man of the camp, went -very mysteriously into the camp and brought out something -tied up in a piece of an old bag. It turned out to be a nugget -which must have weighed 60 ounces. A small piece of gold -was given me as a souvenir, and I was bound to secrecy for a -month about the big nugget; but, as the month will be long -past when this is published, I may now safely speak.</p> - -<p>At Mount Weld the miners seemed amazed to see a lady<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277"></a>[277]</span> -drive up alone, and all work was suspended for the time by the -hands on top. At the same time an “Hallo” was given to those -working below, with the message, “Come up; a lady visitor.” -The reply came, “You’re codding” (joking); but when I went -to the top of the shaft and called down, “It’s quite true,” -they came up the rope (dispensing with the bucket) with -great alacrity. Several claims here were yielding splendid -returns, notably the new find, 7 miles from the Mount, where -Bates and Whelan have recently struck a rich patch.</p> - -<p>Another new place is called Bett’s Find, and 150 men were -working there; but, the heat having been terrible and water -rather scarce, a good many of them had left the place. The -North Country, as this part is called, has the advantage of rock -not nearly so hard as on the fields lower down, consequently -the ores can be more easily treated.</p> - -<p>The time came when I had to bid farewell to Laverton and -to its many interesting mines. As time goes on the now modest -little township will, no doubt, develop into a fine city, for it is -the centre of a very rich district, although almost up in the -Never Never country (where there is no white population). -Many mines of which I cannot speak are full of golden promise, -and many more will yet be discovered. The country -around is mountainous, and it is near mountains and hills that -all the rich reefs are found.</p> - -<p>It was on a lovely morning that I started for my return -journey to Mount Malcolm. As I had 70 miles to go, and as I was -on the front seat of the coach, I was thankful that the weather -was cool. At first some difficulty was experienced in getting -the off-side leader to go. He was a young horse, just broken -in, and had never been in harness before; the way he stood -on his hind legs and curvetted around put terror into my -heart, for I am not strikingly brave where horses are concerned; -with a great effort I controlled myself and sat still, -for I could see that the coach-driver had full command, and, -after about ten minutes of fear to me and fun to the crowd<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278"></a>[278]</span> -who gathered round, we got away, the unmanageable animal -behaving admirably for the rest of the journey.</p> - -<p>There was only one other passenger (a gentleman) besides -myself, and he kindly got down and gathered Australian -quondongs,<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> and some very rare flowers new to me. Farther -on the spinifex was very plentiful. I begged some of that, -not knowing its terrible prickly nature. It is a deceitful plant -that grows in pretty green grasslike clumps, with a flower—out -at this time—that looks almost like golden wheat, but is, -oh, how wiry and prickly!</p> - -<p>About 12 miles from Laverton was Hawke’s Nest, where the -coach stopped for a while at the store. This is a flourishing -alluvial place, where many nuggets are often found by -dry-blowers and prospectors. A man came into the store -while we were waiting there with a nice piece, which the storekeeper -weighed; it was 14 ounces, and he had another of -7 ounces. A little while ago a man found a piece weighing -27 ounces, and these good finds are not of unfrequent occurrence.</p> - -<p>On arrival at Mount Morgans we changed coaches and found -the new one crowded.</p> - -<p>By the time I got to Murrin Murrin I was pretty thoroughly -tired, and decided to stay at the nice hotel and once more see -silver and pretty glass-ware on a table, for Mount Morgans -and Laverton, although rich with gold, are not exactly rich in -comfort.</p> - -<p>I wanted to get to Malcolm the next day; there was no coach -going, but I was determined, and, my little landlady providing -me with a horse and spring-cart (the only conveyance -obtainable), I made a start the next morning like a veritable -Bushwoman. I had no adventure beyond seeing a long -camel-train with three Afghan drivers, before getting near -whom I made a détour into the Bush, for horses are invariably<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279"></a>[279]</span> -afraid of camels. I then resumed the road and got safely into -Malcolm.</p> - -<p>A railway is soon to be begun to the Mount Margaret goldfields, -and, considering that this field is producing at the rate -of 13,000 ounces of gold per month, almost double the output -of any other colonial field except Kalgoorlie, it is to be hoped -that the line will be finished with as little delay as possible.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_280"></a>[280]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus81" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus81.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Sons of Gwalia Mine, Mount Leonora</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</h2> - -<p>Leonora—The Gwalia Mines—In a Gingerbeer Cart—More -Nuggets—Gold Blocks—Pastoral Land—Swampers—Scarcity of the -Fair Sex—Saturday Life—Alas, poor Prospectors!</p> - -</div> - -<p>From Mount Malcolm to Leonora I drove 12 miles through -very pleasant country spread with wild flowers of all colours. -About 2½ miles before reaching Leonora lie, a little off the main -road, the great mines called the Gwalia Group, which seem -likely to develop shortly into a second Kalgoorlie. Leonora is -a new place, and its great importance has not yet been fully -realised, but some managers told me that there are belts of -richness there similar to those in Kalgoorlie and Boulder City, -so that, when the railway is finished, no doubt thousands will -flock to Leonora, which by coach is now at a distance of 80 -miles from Menzies. The Gwalia Group occupies about a mile -of ground, and is a leasehold of some 477 acres. Over that -expanse all the miners’ huts, camps, and tents are scattered. -I stopped at several and found a great many women and -families there, and some of their places were very comfortable -inside, although the outside was not much to look at. The men -who work in this mine are chiefly from Victoria, and they are -bringing over their wives and families every week. As the mine<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_281"></a>[281]</span> -is evidently likely to be permanent, and the men see a prospect -of years of work before them, the people there are very happy -and have quite a little township of their own. The principal mine -of the group, the Sons of Gwalia, is on a hill, from which place -you look down over a mile of Bush dotted about with various -camps. The smoke rising from the chimneys, the poppet-heads -of the other mines lying beyond, with a blue haze of hills -behind them, combine to make up a good picture of life on the -goldfields.</p> - -<p>There are 500 men working on this mine who turn out some -thousands of ounces of gold per month, independent of the -tailings, which are almost sure to give 1½ ounces to the ton. -No doubt in a short time there will be a tremendous boom -here.</p> - -<p>The small town of Leonora very much resembles Mount Malcolm, -except that the main street is longer, and that there are -a few more buildings. It boasts of three hotels, one made of -wood and two of mud bricks, but withal not ungainly looking, -and tolerably comfortable. Expenses are heavy but wages are -good, and there are so many lucky prospectors that there is -always plenty of money there. On Saturday nights a great -deal of business is done, especially on the pay Saturday, -which at the Gwalia mines arrives once a month; then most of -the men come in and have some amusement in the way of -visiting the hotels and playing billiards; there is nothing else -for them to do. There is no good hall for amusements yet, -and if there were the men would have to provide their own -play, for no company of any calibre has yet ventured so far into -the “back-blocks.” A handsome semi-grand piano had just -arrived at Thompson’s Hotel from Perth, and the son of the -landlady, who was an excellent musician, played a selection -from several new operas for my pleasure, as well as that of the -crowd who thronged the place. There is not much music to -be had in Leonora, but the inhabitants are quite able to -appreciate it when it comes. There is one luxury here, -however, which is generally denied to the people on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_282"></a>[282]</span> -fields lower down towards Kalgoorlie—the luxury of bathing -at the public shower-baths. The men can have three -baths daily by paying the weekly fee of 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> There are -three splendid wells in the town, with windmills, giving -good supplies of fresh water. Horses are very scarce; I had -great difficulty in getting a horse and trap in order to drive out -and see the different mines; in fact, I had one day to enlist the -assistance of the local baker to take me out to one mine that I -wished very much to see, while another day the driver of the -gingerbeer carriage gallantly gave me a lift.</p> - -<p>Another day I had quite an adventure. I started in a cart, -but the animal called a horse, after jog-trotting for a mile or so, -refused to go any farther. The driver explained: “You see, -ma’am, he’s an old ’un, and knows at this time he ought to be -going towards home, so he won’t go any farther away from it.” -All coaxings and persuasions were vain, so I had to get out -and walk. The day was intensely hot, and after walking -some distance I had to sit down on a log, feeling that -I could go no farther. At last in the distance a conveyance -appeared coming from the place to which I wanted to -go, and proved to be that of the butcher. I stopped the cart, -and, with the sweetest smile I could call up, asked the young -man to take me to the mine. “But I am just going away from -there.” “Oh, never mind, turn back; I will pay you any -money to take me there.” After much hesitation he consented -to do so, but would not accept payment. I am glad to say -that from the mine the manager sent me back in one of their -own buggies. The only people who kept horses for hire had -let theirs out to graze during the night and could not find -them in the morning. At last, in desperation I telegraphed to -Mount Malcolm for a buggy and horse, which were brought -down to me, and I finished my inspection in comfort. However, -on my second visit to Leonora I found that the place -had advanced with great strides, and that now I had no difficulty -in obtaining a nice horse and buggy in the township -to take me to the different places I wished to visit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_283"></a>[283]</span></p> - -<p>Going into one of the banks (there are two there), I collided -at the door with a rough-looking man carrying a canvas bag. -This he emptied out upon the counter. It proved to contain -some splendid nuggets of gold and a quantity of gold-dust. -Seeing my eyes full of admiration, the man, rough as he was, -picked out a pretty little piece, and holding it towards me, said, -“Will you accept this, ma’am, from a rough miner who hasn’t -spoken to a lady for two years, and may I shake hands with -you?” You may be sure I did not refuse either of these offers, -made in a most kindly spirit.</p> - -<p>We were now nearly 600 miles from Perth in a different -direction to Laverton.</p> - -<p>The Great Boston Reward Claim is only two miles from -Leonora. Here O’Brien and party made a vast profit out of the -gold and nuggets they obtained from their rich claim. The -same party have another claim at a place called Savannah, -where they are also getting great results.</p> - -<p>Farther along the same road, which is the main road to Diorite -and Lawlers, is the Trump Mine, which has a small battery of -its own, for which the proprietors paid out of their first crushing -of 10 ounces to the ton. There are dozens of working-parties -of men about this particular part, which is exceptionally rich. -Close to the Trump are the Leonora Gold Blocks, which for -richness have not been surpassed in the district. This mine -also has its own battery, bought and paid for out of its first -profits, so now the lucky owners have nothing to do but raise -the stone and extract the gold on the premises, independent of -everybody. The ample water supply makes work here comparatively -easy, and I came to the conclusion that this was an -excellent place to look for gold. When one looks back and -thinks of the difficulties miners have had to contend with at -Hannan’s, I should say that a man would rather work in the -Leonora district, even for lower pay, than down below, where -there is no fresh water and few vegetables; and the fact is that -wages are higher here. There can be no doubt that a very great -future lies before the Leonora, or, I should say, Mount Malcolm<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_284"></a>[284]</span> -goldfields, and probably in two years from this time, instead -of 1000 there will be 10,000 people on the field. There are -now scores of mines there, about which nobody hears anything. -Steady work is in progress everywhere in the district; there -are no unemployed men, the country, all the way from Menzies, -is being rapidly opened up, and so many improvements have -been decided on by the various mining companies, that thousands -more men will shortly be required to do the work. There is, -therefore, nothing to prevent this rich field, which has the -advantage of being extensive, consistent, and well watered, from -developing shortly into a great community. Mr. Morgans, who -should be a good authority on mines, says that he sees no reason -why the Gwalia Mine should not shortly turn out 10,000 ounces -of gold per month, and that there are fully a dozen mines in -the neighbourhood of Leonora with striking lode formations -which in the future will be as rich as any in the district.</p> - -<p>On the road to the Diorite King, which is about 40 miles -from Leonora, there was nothing much to see except a good -many swampers. A “swamper” is a man tramping without his -swag, which he entrusts to a teamster to bring on his waggon. -Arrived at the camping-place, which is recognisable by the old -fires, the swamper awaits the teamster’s coming, recovers his -swag and spends the night at the camp. While on foot the -swamper will generally leave the track, and prospect, and shows -wonderful skill in recovering the track again, after these deviations. -The country, however, was certainly prettier than that -of the Coolgardie district. I was somewhat surprised when the -coach pulled up at a small-looking hotel, called the Kurrajong, -with a few houses about it, to find that I was at Diorite King -township. It is certainly the smallest place I ever stayed at. -However, I was not sorry to get to my journey’s end, for the -heat and red dust had made me long for a refreshing cup of -tea, which I got at the hotel. I was fortunate in getting a nice -comfortable room, which, however, I was told was reserved for -the manager of a mine who was expected soon, but I was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_285"></a>[285]</span> -allowed to have it until he came, and I am thankful to say he -did not arrive while I was there, so that I remained for a few -days in undisputed possession.</p> - -<p>At Diorite the township consists of one hotel, one store, -one baker and butcher’s shop combined, one blacksmith’s forge, -a few mud houses, and two galvanised-iron ones, the house of -Mr. Williams, the manager of the Diorite Mine, and a post-office. -My readers may perhaps wonder why I stayed so long. -Certainly of all the uninviting desert-looking places I ever -saw, Diorite is the worst, but mines of wealth lie close to it. -There are only four women in Diorite, the landlady, the -barmaid of the hotel, a shopkeeper, and the wife of one of -the men on the mine. Women, being so few, are looked upon -in these parts as goddesses, and are treated with reverence, -and I was made quite an object of adoration. Of course there -was no chance of getting a horse and vehicle here (how I -regretted leaving my bicycle at Menzies because I would not -pay full coach fare for it!) so one mine was explored by the -medium of the grocer’s cart. However, the day after, -Mr. Williams kindly lent me his horse and buggy, and safe -transit to the other mines was then assured.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus82" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus82.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Camels at Diorite King</p> -</div> - -<p>The Diorite King Mine is about two miles from the township, -and lies between two hills. A great deal of gold has been got -there. I found myself most hospitably entertained, as the men -were all at their “crib” when I arrived, and being invited -into their dining-room, a bough-shed with two benches and long -table, I took the mug of “billy” tea offered me, but did not feel<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_286"></a>[286]</span> -disposed to partake of the corned beef, cabbage, and potatoes, -although everything looked very nice and well cooked, and also -well served up by the cook of the day. This mine, and another -called the Middlesex, have both turned out good results, and -while I was there I saw some of what is called “surface stone,” -freely splashed with gold all over. On the way back to Diorite -a long string of camels, over eighty passed on their way to -Lawlers with stores. What would the people in these remote -places do if it were not for these “ships of the desert”?</p> - -<p>On one of them, in a kind of wicker basket, was a poor little -lamb, looking wonderingly around with its head out of the -cage. I thought, perhaps, it might have been a pet of one of -the Afghans. “No fear, ma’am, it’s to be killed at sundown; -they won’t eat any meat killed by Europeans, drat them,” said -the grocer, for like all Westralians he had a hatred of the wily -Afghan.</p> - -<p>The Calcutta Mine is not far from Diorite, and has a -splendid reef. It adjoins the Little Wonder, owned by Doyle -and party, who a few years ago had a find of gold so rich and -phenomenal that thousands of pounds worth of gold were taken -in no time, and the men are working in daily expectation of -cutting a rich leader again.</p> - -<p>Mount Stirling is another mine held by a Perth syndicate. -Very rich ore was lately struck there, and the syndicate -have now erected their own crushing battery. Plenty of fuel -and water is available in the vicinity. Hundreds of tons -of the valuable ore lie on top waiting to be crushed, and -thousands more are plainly to be seen below waiting to be dug -out. This is the richest stone that has ever been found near -here, and is causing much excitement on the lease adjoining -Mount Stirling. A lode was being worked by some miners -at a depth of 90 feet, a pocket of some of the stuff assaying -the immense value of 100 ounces to the ton. A great many -more men have claims about the vicinity of Mount Stirling -Mines, but it is almost impossible to know what is being -got, as they keep silence over their findings. The manager<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_289"></a>[289]</span> -of the store says that a large quantity of alluvial gold is sent -away from the district of which the warden knows nothing. -His firm, being buyers of gold, often purchase from the men as -much as 100 ounces a month, £390 worth, sometimes more.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_287"></a>[287]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus83" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus83.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">AUCTION SALE GOLDFIELDS (TIN HOTEL)</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_288"></a>[288]</span></p> - -<p>Last, but far from least, I went to the King of the Hills Mine. -The farther I got away from Diorite the nicer the country -looked. When I came to the King of the Hills the surroundings -were really pretty. The wonderful gold got there has been -obtained by sinking to no great depth. The main shaft was -only 25 feet deep at the time when I saw it. Many rich quartz -veins have been found in the workings, the finds being occasionally -most sensational. A small parcel of 18 tons of stone was -treated for a yield of 280 ounces of gold; 14 tons yielded -276 ounces, and since then a further sensation has been caused -by 1 ton of quartz which yielded 116 ounces of gold. On one -of the shafts large sacks of ore were stacked which fairly -glistened with gold, and were expected to give as high a result -as that just quoted. The mine was owned at this time by -Read and party, but has since been sold to Mr. Raymond, of -the Harquehala Company, for £6000 cash. After pegging out -their claim, Reid and party obtained over 1600 ounces of gold, -worth about the nice little sum of £6200. That, with the sale -of the mine, makes a fortune of £12,000 for four partners.</p> - -<p>Saturday afternoon brought all, or nearly all, the miners -from the surrounding country into Diorite, where, as you -can imagine, the hotelkeeper was kept busy. The hotel -proprietor, no doubt, has made a fortune out of these -Saturdays, the men having no other means of spending -their money; there is no bank where they can change their -gold into coin, but the storekeeper does that necessary kindness -for them, or the landlady notes a score on her little -slate. All the time that I was there one lucky claim-holder -was falling about the place intoxicated. Some of the scenes -witnessed are by no means pleasant, but I suppose the four -women of the place had got quite used to them, for they did -not seem to take any notice of anything that went on. Many<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_290"></a>[290]</span> -of the men on the Saturday night become incapable of going -back to their camps, and there being no sleeping accommodation -at Diorite beyond the one hotel, they take shelter in any empty -hut or under any cover they can find. The men are all very -kind to one another, only a few fights occur, and the fighters -soon shake hands and make friends again. There is no police -protection, and not even a tree lock-up, so every one does -pretty well as he likes at Diorite King; but when one thinks -of the life these men lead, shut off in a desert country from -almost every trace of civilisation, one feels that their faults -should be looked on with a lenient eye. One man seemed -terribly drink-sodden, and I was told he had taken thousands -of pounds worth of gold as a partner in a certain claim, -and his friends had tried to get him away to reclaim him, -but he would not leave the place, and preferred to spend the -money as he got it in the desert. Occasionally some poor -miner gets lost in the Bush and is never heard of again. The -blacks were very troublesome at one time about here, but there -are now very few. Mr. J. Leyland, one of the original owners -of the Little Wonder Mine, was killed by them about two years -ago. He had gone out to look for two horses that were lost, and -having found them had camped for the night at Doyle’s Well, -about 20 miles off, and was boiling his billy when he noticed -a bush in motion close by, and before he could arm himself two -blacks sprang upon him and hit him on the head with a waddy, -and then speared the horses, leaving Mr. Leyland, as they -thought, dead. They then, having satisfied their thirst for blood, -decamped. On the poor man’s return to consciousness he -dragged himself to the horses and found one poor beast dead but -the other not severely injured. He managed to mount it, and -horse and rider, covered with blood, managed to make their way -back to the mine. The horse dropped dead on their arrival -there, and poor Leyland only lived long enough to relate his -terrible night’s experience. Two men were lost in the Bush a -little after this, and parties went out searching for them. One -poor fellow was found dead under a tree, with his billy beside<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_291"></a>[291]</span> -him, on the smoked part of which was scratched: “Dying from -thirst; Jim tried to go on, follow him.” A horse lying dead -close by mutely told a dreadful tale. The search-party, going -on for many miles, at last came across a hut near a well. The -hut-keeper told them he was awakened by a noise at daybreak, -and on looking out saw a dark object leaning over a rough -hollowed-out tree trunk (used for giving his horse a drink) -and ravenously gulping down the water like a thirsty wild -animal. It was hardly daylight, so he could not distinguish -what it was, but knowing there were no wild animals about he -ventured out to see, and found it was the other poor lost man -in the throes of death. He took him into the hut and cared for -him as well as he could, but it was too late, so all the search-party -could do was to dig a grave and bury the second poor -mate as they had done the first.</p> - -<p>About 62 miles from Leonora is the splendid goldfields’ -pastoral station, called Sturt’s Meadows, which belongs to -Mr. Manuel, and consists of 570,000 acres of land. There is -an abundance of water, and wells have been sunk in many -parts to supply the enormous herds of stock which Mr. Manuel -sends to the southern markets. The boundary of the station -lies 20 miles away, and we drove 18 miles, during which we -were always on the property, before coming to the homestead. -Here we were hospitably received, and tasted “Brownie,” a -currant loaf peculiar to this station, of which I can personally -speak in the highest terms. Mr. Manuel drives four and sometimes -six brumbies, and the way he gets over the ground is -simply amazing.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_292"></a>[292]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus84" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus84.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Off by the Coach to Lawlers</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</h2> - -<p>Lawlers—Splendid Vegetables—Waiting for a Samaritan—Mount -Sir Samuel—While the Billy boils—The Kangaroo—Lake Way—Across -the Country—The “Back-blocks”—Camping out—Arrival at -Nannine—Bed once More—Splendid Mines of the Murchison—Peak -Hill—The Gold Patch—An Old Friend—A Hearty Welcome.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Another coach journey of 50 miles brought me to Lawlers. I -was now out of the Mount Malcolm and Mount Margaret districts, -and in the East Murchison. Mount Magnet, which is on the -Cue railway line, is almost in a direct line with Lawlers, and -it is 130 miles from Lawlers to Menzies. Lawlers is a nice little -town; all the people so friendly and pleased to see a strange -lady on the field that many of them came into the hotel to see me. -The buildings are creditable, and a great amount of business -seemed to be doing. The gold output is steadily increasing, -but although much good ore is realised, there is great difficulty -experienced in getting it crushed, the batteries being too -small. The people seem unusually healthy. They say -no one is ever sick at Lawlers, and the soil is magnificent -for growing fruit and vegetables, despite the small rainfall. -Mr. Homann has a very fine garden, watered by the -surplus water from the Great Western Mine, and from a well -with a windmill. Melons, tomatoes, and cabbages are fully -equal to any I have seen. There are also some vines that have -borne beautiful grapes. If there were only a plentiful fall of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_293"></a>[293]</span> -rain, which unfortunately seldom happens, Lawlers could compete -with any place in the matters of agriculture and viticulture. -Everything has to be carted to the place by team or -camel-train, consequently things of all kinds are very dear, the -actual cost of carriage from Mount Magnet being £12 per ton -by team and £8 by camel-train. The coach fare to that place -from Lawlers, 192 miles, is £5, and to Menzies, 130 miles, £4. -Until the railway went to Menzies from Kalgoorlie, most of the -supplies came from Mount Magnet, but now that the traffic of -Lawlers is going to Menzies, since the train service commenced, -instead of Magnet, it increases daily. This, of course, will naturally -benefit both places, since Menzies will now also obtain -some of the splendid vegetables grown in Lawlers. Previously -there were only tinned vegetables to be had there. The people of -Menzies have no desire to see a railway line extended past that -place, but as the Government has now decided to build a railway -speedily to Leonora, the Lawlers people are hoping that -at no distant time the line may be extended to their town also; -Lawlers will then be the pivot between the Murchison (Cue line) -and East Murchison goldfields, and with its excellent soil, its rich<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_294"></a>[294]</span> -mines, the Great Eastern for instance, will probably become one of -the principal towns in the goldfields. When the railway -reaches Lawlers there will be only 192 miles of this part without -train service, through which a railway could soon be made to -Mount Magnet, completing a belt of rails from Perth right round -the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Mount Malcolm, Margaret, East -Murchison, Murchison, and Yalgoo goldfields.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus85" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus85.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Lake Way Gold Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>I next prepared for a long journey through the Western -Australian Bush. My destination was Lake Way and Wiluna. -How I was to get there I did not know, as there were no coaches -even for the mails, which were only taken once a week, -and then by bicycle, over a distance of 120 miles, a journey too -long and too lonely for me to take alone. However, I was -cheered by the news that some miners were expected at Lawlers -in a day or two for whom horses were waiting. So, never -doubting that they would be gallant enough to offer me a seat, -I rested quietly and waited for their arrival. When they came -they proved to have two friends with them, who proposed to -travel on what is called the “buckboard,” that is the kind of -ledge, about three feet long, for carrying luggage at the back -of the buggy, and as there was only room for two persons in -front there seemed to be a difficulty about conveying the -whole party. However, the pleasure of having a lady to drive -with them for 120 miles was great enough to make the party -alter all their arrangements. One of them borrowed a bicycle, -and two of us in front of the buggy, a lad and other friend on -the buckboard, and four brumbies in hand, we gaily started off -one fine morning. We reached the first stopping-place, Mount -Sir Samuel, 31 miles off, at 4 o’clock, and put up there, as I -wished to see this little place, where there are some very good -mines—one, the Bellevue, being a first-rate property. Another, -called the Sulphide King, is very promising. Mining here is -not so hard as in some places, owing to the softness of the -ground and the plentiful supply of water.</p> - -<p>Lake Darlot is about 20 miles from here, and there is now a -very promising goldfields township in the district. A wild rush<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_295"></a>[295]</span> -occurred a few years ago. This was one of the places where -great hardships were endured by the diggers on account of the -terrible scarcity of provisions; the price of flour, when procurable, -was at that time £5 for a small bag!</p> - -<p>Every one at Mount Sir Samuel was very kind and hospitable, -and I felt quite sorry to leave next morning, as we did at -daybreak, for we wished to make a long journey that day. We -should have, we knew, to camp out. I looked forward to this -unusual experience with great eagerness.</p> - -<p>As I was watching the camp making I heard “Coo-e-e! -Coo-e-e!” the Australian bush cry, and presently a party of -four miners rode up. They had just sold their mines for -£17,000, and were on their way to Melbourne, <i>en route</i> for -New Zealand to see their parents. They told me that, five -years ago, they landed in the West with £200 between -the four of them, and are now leaving with the above-mentioned -sum; but they hope to come back to the Golden -West after a six-months holiday. As you may imagine, -they were very jolly; they took off their kits (bags), which -contained provisions, we combined forces, and made a very -pleasant meal under the shade of some pretty kurrajong-trees. -At night, attracted by our fires, some natives appeared, but I -felt quite safe with so many protectors. They made up a bed -of bushes for me under the buggy, and put branches all around -it. I felt as if I was in a Mia Mia (native hut), and was as comfortable -as possible. I heard the natives saying, “Mimi lubra,” -which means, “Woman in a tent.” They thought the men would -not trouble to make a place like it for themselves, and their -conjectures were right; they are not such a stupid race after all!</p> - -<p>Early in the morning we parted company and started off -again. An adventure shortly after stirred us up. A kangaroo, -pursued by an emu, came on the scene, but, being so fleet, -both were soon out of sight. After the excitement was over -the boy on the buckboard repeated to us an essay he said he -wrote at school, on the kangaroo, which struck me as being so -funny that I give it you verbatim:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_296"></a>[296]</span></p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“The kangaroo is a quadruped, but two of his feet is only hands. -He is closely related to the flea family, an’ jumps like him, an’ has -the same kind of resemblance. He is Australian by birth an’ has -a watch-pocket to carry his children in. There is two or more -kinds of kang’roos, but they are mostly male an’ female, and live on -grass, cabbage, and curren buns. The kang’roo’s tale is his chief -support; it is thick at one end, and runs to the other end; it is -good to jump with, and the kang’roo when it’s cut off don’t know -his way home, and has to walk on his hands. The kang’roo is good -for makin’ soup and bootlaces and putting in zoos, and sometimes -he is presented to the roil Family to represent Australia.”</p> -</div> - -<p>We reached Wiluna, the township of Lake Way, next day, -and found it a very nice little place. There are three hotels -and stores, and I was surprised to find everything so nice away -up in the wilds of the West. There is plenty of fresh water in -this district and several nice gardens. Watermelons grow -splendidly, and, with the thermometer at 114°, are very welcome. -Tomatoes also grow in profusion, and several people -are growing fruit and vegetables as a business, so that Lake -Way is not a bad place in which to find oneself. There are -many good mines, turning out handsome yields, and companies -have recently been floated in London to take over several -properties here. The chief characteristics of the reefs are -evenness of quality, great wealth, and permanency. A very -nice cake of gold, weighing 145 ounces, from one of the claims -was shown me; it came from a claim called The Brothers.</p> - -<p>The people about Wiluna are, in spite of the heat of the -climate, very fond of dancing. It really is almost their only -amusement. The evening of our arrival a ball was held; it -might truly be termed a Bachelors’ Ball, for so few of the -opposite sex are in the district; however, the boys, as they are -termed, arrived in great force, their dancing costumes being -riding breeches and coloured shirts, with turned down collars -and broad hats, real “back blocks” costume. As it was a very -hot and bright moonlight night, they danced on the open plain, -and seemed to enjoy themselves thoroughly. At about 9 o’clock -a terrific shouting and native yabber, yabber (talk) from a part<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_299"></a>[299]</span> -of the Bush, where a tribe of aborigines were encamped, gave -token of rival amusement. The natives were holding a -Corroboree. They had camped at Wiluna, but were travelling -to some particular part of the country, where a favourite large -grub, which they used for food, was to be found in quantities. -Natives always travel from place to place in search of food, and -they know the parts in which the different kinds will be -plentiful or in season.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_297"></a>[297]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus86" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus86.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">KANGAROO</p> - <p class="caption"><i>Copyright—Gambier Bolton</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_298"></a>[298]</span></p> - -<p>Wishing to see a Corroboree dance, I, with some of the -onlookers of the Bachelors’ Ball, migrated to the camp. The -black fellows, who had ornamented their heads and kangaroo-skin -garment with what feathers and tufts of grass they could -obtain and coloured their faces and bodies with wilgey, were -leaping up in the air, with a spear in one hand and a shield in -the other, and contorting their bodies in most grotesque fashion -to the accompaniment of native music supplied by some of the -men of the tribe, who squatted on the ground chanting strange -sounds and beating sticks, while the lubras (wives), gins (girls), -and pickaninnies (children) sat or lay around, making a fearful -noise and clapping their hands vigorously. In the light of the -camp fire it was a novel and weird sight, but a little of it sufficed -me. Before leaving, the head man of the tribe threw the -boomerang, which is a native weapon shaped like a quarter-moon, -and so constructed that it assumes a return motion at -the will of the native who throws it. It really was wonderful -to hear it whirr as it started through the air to a great distance -and height, and then come back to exactly the same place it -started from. The boomerang is not so unique as many people -think; a weapon almost the same was used by the Abyssinians -hundreds of years ago, and still earlier by the people of ancient -Egypt.</p> - -<p>The journey from Lake Way to Nannine, over 120 miles of -rather barren country, was one to be remembered. No coach -having yet been started on this route, I was fortunate in being -able to join a party of people, including two ladies, who were -going there in their own conveyances; they had been in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_300"></a>[300]</span> -“back-blocks” for four years, and thought it time to take a holiday, -especially as their husbands had made over £6000 each from -their mines, and had given them £500 each to go to Victoria, -see their friends, and have a good time, as I have no doubt they -did. We camped out for four nights, but the weather was fine, -and it was very pleasant to be under a canopy of stars, although -towards morning it got pretty cold. The two ladies took it in -turn to do the cooking, and would not hear of my doing anything, -saying it would be a pity to roughen my hands, which, -by the way, were becoming -almost as brown -as theirs. I quite enjoyed -the bush-cooking. -Johnny cake or -“damper,” as it is -called here, cooked in -the wood-ashes, is very -nice, especially with -good butter, which we -had in tins. Then there -were plenty of wild turkeys about, some of which were shot for -us. My companions had brought some tinned asparagus also, -so, taking it altogether, our manna in the desert was not to be -despised. We met a few aborigines during our journey, but -they were generally very quiet and only asked for bacca and -food. The lubras were carrying their pickaninnies in a coota -(bag) on their backs (this is their usual custom except in the -colder parts of the colony, where they are supplied with -blankets and also with rations); they were also carrying sticks -and some freshly killed birds. The women always have to -carry all the burdens, their lords and masters stalking on ahead -with their spears, no doubt on the look-out for game.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus87" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus87.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">A Well near Lake Way</p> -</div> - -<p>One night, as we were sitting round the camp-fire, several -of them again appeared and demanded more bacca and food, -which was given them, and they were told to go away, but -they would not do so until the men of our party fired off several<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_303"></a>[303]</span> -shots, which soon caused them to disappear, as they are very -much afraid of fire-arms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_301"></a>[301]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus88" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus88.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">LUBRA AND PICKANINNY</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_302"></a>[302]</span></p> - -<p>Another night we camped in company with two teams. -Each team had ten horses and splendid large waggons, one of -which the teamster gave up to us three ladies, and we had quite -a luxurious bed on sacks of chaff that night. The teamsters -were educated men; one had received a college education, but -had been eight years in the “back-blocks.” He said he had -not been in a lady’s company for years, and the poor fellow -seemed delighted to talk to me about his mother and sisters, -who, he said, were in dear old England, but he never wrote -home, as he was the black sheep of the family. I made him -promise that when he got to Nannine he would write to his -mother, who, no doubt, in her heart was thinking, “Where is -my wandering boy to-night?” I do hope he kept his promise. -On our arrival at Nannine I bade a reluctant farewell to the -party, who took the coach to Cue, <i>en route</i> for Fremantle, there -to take the steamer to Victoria to spend their well-earned holiday.</p> - -<p>We were now in the Murchison district. Nannine is a nice little -place, and everything seemed to be flourishing. The people -form a very happy, lively community. Several good buildings -adorn the town, and I considered myself fortunate in getting -very comfortable quarters, for I was really tired after my journey -and late camping-out experiences. It was delightful to rest on a -nice soft bed and to have my breakfast brought me in the morning. -There are two good hotels at Nannine, which do a splendid -business. There are over 80 mines in the district—the first in -which gold was discovered in Western Australia. This first -discovery dates from 1854, when Robert Austin was sent by -Governor Fitzgerald to explore the country in the Gascoyne -district above Peak Hill for agricultural and pastoral land for -settlement. Mr. Austin was accompanied by the sons of some -of the early settlers, and the little band of explorers underwent -many hardships. Most of their horses were poisoned by the -Bri-gastrolobium plant, and the party had to travel on foot for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_304"></a>[304]</span> -many weary months. It was owing to this circumstance that -the gold discovery was made, for while reconnoitring for grass -and water Mr. Austin came across some likely looking stone, -which he broke, and found it contained gold. The only prospecting -tools available (except a tomahawk, a small hatchet -always carried by explorers and prospectors), being a knife and -a pannikin, much progress could not be made. On Mr. Austin’s -return to Perth from the expedition he informed the Government, -who did not think it worth while to make further inquiries. -Had they done so, the colony’s prosperity might have dated 35 -years earlier than it has done, as Mr. Austin correctly described -the auriferous nature of the belt of country around Mount -Magnet, Lake Austin, and Mount Kenneth, and also predicted -that the Murchison would become one of the greatest goldfields -in the world. The little party were the first white men -who ever set foot in that part of the colony, and I do not think -that their efforts were ever recognised. Mr. Austin is now a -very old gentleman, and last year was mining surveyor at the -Mines Department, Hodgkinson Goldfields, Queensland, from -which place he wrote to the papers in Perth asking that his -claims as the first discoverer of gold should be recognised by the -present Parliament, and giving interesting particulars of his -travels. In 1856 gold was discovered at Kojânup, but little -attention was paid to gold in Western Australia in those days. -It was not until 1884 that Mr. Hardman, the Government -geologist, discovered rich gold at Kimberley in the far north of -Western Australia, and this was followed in 1887 by the find -of gold at Mugakine while a man was digging a well. Golden -Valley and Southern Cross followed, and an era of prosperity -for the colony opened which I hope will never be closed.</p> - -<p>At the Aberfoyle Mine, to which I went from Nannine, I saw -some beautiful quartz thickly encrusted with gold. Twenty-two -pounds of this stone contained over 62 ounces of gold, valued at -£230. This rich piece of quartz has been secured for the Glasgow -Exhibition. There are seven shafts on this really amazing -mine, from each of which the ore taken is so marvellously rich<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_305"></a>[305]</span> -that they are watched at night. Splendid machinery is being -put up, but sufficient masons cannot be got to do the work, consequently -the progress is slow. The Nannine Mine has shown -wonderful results during the year. In six weeks 1371 ounces -were crushed from 285 tons of stone. The chute (opening) from -which this was taken improves still richer as the mine opens -up. The Champion is another group of mines, from which -excellent returns have been taken. At the Royalist, another -mine owned by the oldest mining resident of Nannine, as much -as 300 ounces in two weeks have recently been obtained. -There are many other mines, but I cannot specify them all. -Mount Yagahong is also a rich part of the field, and Meekatharra, -25 miles away, is rapidly forging ahead as a gold -producer. Then 14 miles from Nannine is Burnakura, from -which place 71 lb. of specimens, containing 700 ounces of -gold, some of the pieces being nearly pure gold, were recently -brought into Nannine and lodged in the Western Australian -Bank. Previous to this, £2000 worth of gold was taken from -the same claim, called Jewett’s United Lease, and still more -recently a Perth paper records that “A small parcel of stone, -weighing 4¾ cwt., from Jewett’s Union Mine at Burnakura, -and crushed at the Nannine battery, yielded 494½ ounces of -gold. Nine hundred tons of stone lie at grass—that is, on -the top waiting to be crushed—on the property.” This -magnificent mine is owned by a local syndicate of seven -people. Gabanuntha is a rich mine near Nannine, and Star of -the East another. A leasehold with a peculiar name is “After -Many Years,” which gives every indication of turning out rich. -This district, and Peak Hill, owing to their remoteness, have not -attracted speculators much, but must eventually become prominent, -for they are as rich as any part of Western Australia, -and after many years will, no doubt, fully verify Robert Austin’s -prediction.</p> - -<p>To drive another 120 miles through the Bush to Peak Hill did -not seem to me a very agreeable undertaking, but the advent -one day of a spanking four-in-hand at Nannine, bringing three<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_306"></a>[306]</span> -gentlemen, one of whom I was fortunate enough to know, and -who gallantly offered to take me to Peak Hill, altered the -case completely. One of the party was an Englishman -inspecting Western Australian mines with a view to large -investments. Relays of horses had been sent on to the -different stages along the road and sleeping accommodation -arranged for. I am afraid I put out these arrangements -considerably, but the gentlemen did not seem to mind giving -up the best to me, gallantly saying that my company compensated -for any discomfort. I felt at first that, as they were on -mining business, they did not want womenfolk around, but -they soon found out that I took as much interest in mining -matters as themselves, and we became <i>bon camarades</i>. -Knowing that the <i>menu</i> at these places would not be of the -best, the party had sent ahead supplies of everything necessary -for table comfort, also a man cook and waiter, so you may well -understand that the journey to Peak Hill was a most enjoyable -one to me.</p> - -<p>As we approached the famous Peak Hill, which is a nice little -mining town, endowed with wonders of which you will presently -hear, we passed several dry-blowers working. These men -fossick (look) over the old workings, and by aid of a tin dish, -in which they place any earth they think contains gold, and a -coarse riddle with which to sift it, afterwards blowing away the -fine dirt, they frequently find gold at the bottom of the -dish. The ground is remarkably rich in gold, and I find it -impossible to describe the magnitude of this golden country, -which, like other fields, seems only to have been tested -in a few places, those places being so rich that one wonders -what the country will be when the hundreds of miles of good -ground that I have passed have been opened out by miners. -We were now far, far away from Perth, and the country looked -different from any I had seen before in Western Australia. -Peak Hill lies very high, 2000 feet above the sea-level. The -ascent is steep and very rocky, four miles of it going through the -Robinson Ranges. An interesting sight is found at the top,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_309"></a>[309]</span> -which has the appearance of a wide plain, with shafts and -dumps of the thrown-up earth all over it. The manager -of the principal mine here has a very comfortable residence, -and the miners’ camps give the place the usual prosperous -appearance. There are over 600 men on this field. The whole -of the leases of Peak Hill have been taken over by a syndicate, -which has formed a company in London. The finds have been -marvellously rich. I went down one shaft, and saw some -very interesting specimens being dug out. The gold is in a -kaolin formation, and in some parts the kaolin is of all kinds -of colours, and with the gold shining through looks really -lovely. In other parts of the mine the kaolin is quite white, -and the deposit easy to dig out. The results from the Peak -Hill reef have been as high as 2621 ounces 15 dwts. of gold -from 331 tons of this ore. Some of the mines have given as -much as 21 ounces of gold to the ton, which is a wonderful -record. The Christmas Gift is a rich mine, and many others -have had such phenomenal crushings that the Peak Hill district -is unsurpassed in wealth of gold. When Sir Gerard Smith, -late Governor of Western Australia, visited Peak Hill, the -mine-owners had a solid gold plate and a cup, to use at dinner, -cast for him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_307"></a>[307]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus89" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus89.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">DRY-BLOWING IN THE GOLDEN STEW</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_308"></a>[308]</span></p> - -<p>There are some really fine public buildings, and the hotels, -especially the Peak, are very comfortable. A nice Miners’ -Institute, for meetings, entertainments, &c., has recently been -finished. Land for building sites realises splendid prices, -nearly £1000 having been paid for different allotments. The -private houses seem very comfortable habitations. Many of -the people have made fortunes, and everything seems prosperous -about the place.</p> - -<p>A very original character, called “Tom the Rager,” sold his -interest in one of the leases some time ago for £15,000. -This man, an old Irishman, made a memorable journey from -Kimberley, in the North-West, across the greater part of -Western Australia, accompanied only by his faithful dog -“Paddy,” and subsequently got an interest in some of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_310"></a>[310]</span> -richest claims at Peak Hill, as the sale mentioned may testify. -The Golden Patch, as it is called, in which all the rich mines -are, covers about a square mile of ground of quite a different -nature from that in other parts. This mile of ground is formed -by a mass of rich veins of quartz, and the wealth contained -there is unsurpassed in any part of Western Australia. Were -Peak Hill not such a tremendous distance away from the capital, -its growth would, no doubt, be as quick as that of Kalgoorlie, -which it so much resembles. Some of the wonderful crushings -from a few of the golden mines may interest you. The Peak -Hill Reef, from 331 tons of stone crushed 2621 ounces of gold; -Daisy Bell, 82 tons, gave 1245 ounces; Golden Chimes, 195 -tons, gave 1402 ounces. The Horseshoe and the Golden Patch -are supposed to be the two richest spots in the colony. Some -of the specimens taken from the Patch are not only rich but -vastly interesting in other ways, some of the pieces being not -gold held together by quartz, but <i>vice versâ</i>; the small pieces of -quartz, if tapped by a hard substance, vibrate like a tuning-fork. -The gold is very brilliant, and positively sparkles in the light.</p> - -<p>I drove out to the Horseshoe Mines, a distance of about -20 miles. There were over 50 men working there, and getting a -great deal of gold; some of them gave me some pretty pieces. -I have now got enough nuggets to make any other collectors -envious. While there I met a young man who knew me in -Melbourne when he was quite a boy. I did not recognise -him, as he had grown up and had a moustache; but he came -to me almost with tears in his eyes, so pleased was he to -see me so far away from home. For the moment I could -hardly realise that I was nearly 800 miles in the interior of -Western Australia, and felt inclined to cry with sympathy. He -gave me a very pretty little nugget, which cheered me considerably. -Alluvial gold often takes most singular forms; it is -usually found on the surface, or not far below, while reef-gold -is got in a quartz lode, or vein, at some depth underground. -Some magnificent nuggets have been found in this part; one -weighing 132 ounces, worth over £500, was found in one of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_311"></a>[311]</span> -gullies which we passed when driving to this spot. The name of -Horseshoe is taken from the long range of hills shaped almost -like a horseshoe, and the gullies between them have made many -of the miners wealthy. There are two very rich reefs here, -which have been proved for six or seven miles. The specimens -are very massive, gold predominating to a large extent in -the quartz, and the ironstone fairly glistening with richness. I -was now getting so much accustomed to looking at and handling -gold that I began to fear I should look coldly on the common -articles of everyday life. The miners, with the usual hospitality -of their class, would boil the billy and give me tea, and all the -best that their “back-block” larder afforded. Times are much -changed now, since the early days of the fields, and the miners -can live very comfortably. I said good-bye to them all with -regret, wishing I could stay longer in this grand part of the -country, the scenic beauty of which is also great. I enjoyed the -drive back very much, and could not help thinking what store -of wealth must lie beneath the ground we were driving over. -The great bulk of this part of the country must contain -untold gold.</p> - -<p>Revelstone is another rich mining camp a few miles from -Peak Hill, where a public crushing plant has been erected, -at which the miners of the neighbourhood can have their ore -crushed as soon as they raise it.</p> - -<p>Farther on still is that wonderful Nor’-West country, to -which I hope some day to go. The biggest nuggets the colony -has produced have been found there. “The Bobby Dazzler,” -which I was fortunate enough to see, and tried to lift, before I -left Perth, and which is to be shown at the Glasgow Exhibition, -came from Marble Bar, Nor’-West. It weighs over 400 ounces -of gold, and is worth over £1600. Another large nugget was -found in that district a few years ago, which weighed 334 -ounces; so that people wishing to pick up the precious metal -in large lumps had better try their luck in the far North.</p> - -<p>After spending some days at Peak Hill, I started, with my -kind friends, on my return to Nannine, and passed through<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_312"></a>[312]</span> -acres and acres of the finest everlasting flowers I have ever -seen. The beautiful cream-coloured starry flowers were as -large as a florin; the country looked like a foamy sea. Then, -in other parts, bright-coloured flowers surrounded us, like -patterns in a huge kaleidoscope.</p> - -<p>We came to Abbot’s Find, some miles before reaching -Nannine; the locality is very rich; it was near here that last -year a lucky prospector, named Campbell, found some splendid -specimens. The stone was creamy-white, thickly permeated -with gold, and was obtained from near the surface. The place -is full of outcrops (likely places for gold), leaders, and reefs, it -is wonderful that no rush has yet begun; but the rich spots -are so many, and the men comparatively so few, that they -cannot prospect them all. There are several important mines -at Abbot’s, notably the New Murchison King, White Horse, -Abbot’s, and others, which have all given good returns.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_313"></a>[313]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus90" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus90.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Mine at Cue</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</h2> - -<p>Tuckanarra—The Lights of Cue—Surprising Vegetation—Sweet -Flowers Again—High Wages—Splendid Meat—The Island—The -Mirage—Jolly Faces—Mount Magnet—Donkeys—A Tasteful Camp—The -Morning Star—Windsor Castle.</p> - -</div> - -<p>After a good rest at Nannine, which is 50 miles from Cue, we -started off for Tuckanarra, where I stayed for a day to see the -much-talked-of spot where so rich a find was lately made, my -friends going on meanwhile to Cue. The country around here -is much broken and there are many large caves. It was at the -head of a huge gorge that the big find was made, right on the -surface, and many hundredweights of rich specimens were -quickly dug out. The lucky prospector communicated with -Mr. Zeb. Lane, in Perth, who went up, inspected the find, and -took an option of the mine for the British Westralia Syndicate, -taking 4 cwt. of the rich stuff home to England with him. -However, the find proved to be a pocket, and all the gold -had centred there; consequently Mr. Lane surrendered the -option, as not being valuable enough for flotation. (He has -since floated in England the Anchor Consolidated Group, which -includes several good mines at Tuckanarra.) The original -owners, Messrs. Taylor and Co., have now retaken the work of -opening up the mine with much success, and have recently<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_314"></a>[314]</span> -struck a rich reef, a parcel of 34 tons of stone from which -have yielded 138 ounces of gold. Boyd’s Claim is the best one -here, over 3000 ounces of gold having been taken out of it by -crushing and dollying, while the tailings, concentrates, and -blanketings brought the yield up to a considerably larger -amount. At present Tuckanarra is a quiet little place, but -there is no knowing at what moment the colony may be electrified -by more finds. It was Warden Dowley’s blackboy who -first discovered gold in the Tuckanarra district. Whilst travelling -with the warden to Nannine he showed a piece of gold to -his master and pointed out the place where he found it, on -which the warden marked the spot and afterwards circulated -the news. The usual rush ensued, and many claims were -pegged out.</p> - -<p>Only 25 miles of Bush travelling now lay between me and -the town of Cue. The coach driver favoured me with the -box-seat, much to the disgust of a male passenger, who -wanted the seat and did not feel inclined to give way to a -lady. But the driver of the coach is always the boss (master) -of the box-seat, and this one, being fond of ladies’ society, gave -me the preference, not resembling in this point the driver in -one of the other districts, who said he “didn’t want no women -sitting alongside of him.”</p> - -<p>At last I saw the lights of Cue. Electric lights in the streets, -horses and carts, the shrill whistle of the railway engine, boys -calling out the evening papers, and the stopping of the coach to -deliver the mails at the brilliantly lighted and splendid post-office, -told me that I had emerged from the “back-blocks” and -was once more nearing the metropolis.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp93" id="illus91" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus91.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Inclined Shaft, Cue One Mine</p> -</div> - -<p>I had heard a good deal about this centre of the Murchison, -Cue, and, now that I was here, found it an agreeable place to -spend a few days in. The living is in many ways immensely -good, fresh milk is abundant, eggs are, it is true, 5<i>s.</i> a dozen, -but are obtainable. The meat is the finest I have seen in -the colony, and the vegetables are equally good. Passing the -door of the kitchen one morning I saw a pile of cauliflowers,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_315"></a>[315]</span> -the outside leaves of which were 4 feet high, and the white -flower on the same scale. The cabbages were as hard as -a rock and over a foot and a half in diameter. Turnips and -other kinds of vegetables were equally surprising. The cook -told me -that they -were grown -at Mr. -Rickett’s -garden, two -miles out of -town. To -look at the -barren -country -one would -think that -nothing -would -grow, but it -justifies the -words of -Sir Frederick Weld, one of the first Governors, who, when people -described Western Australia as a sand heap, said, “If it be -only sand, it is sand that will grow anything if you give it -water.” I was agreeably surprised one morning to receive a -lovely bunch of mignonette and a few violets, the first of the -season. I did enjoy the gift; no garden flowers ever smelled -sweeter or looked prettier to me, for it was a long time since I had -seen any. It was a perfect Sunday morning, and picnics and -drives were the order of the day; several parties were just -setting out. The people seem to be very happy, and, though -so far away from their old homes, have got quite used to goldfields -life and get plenty of enjoyment out of it. I drove -out to some of the gardens and was surprised at the green<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_316"></a>[316]</span> -spots in the desert. Plenty of water is got by sinking wells -and the gardens are well irrigated.</p> - -<p>There are two newspapers published at Cue. At a dinner -given to the Press while I was there, one of the toasts was as -follows: “Woman, second only to the Press in disseminating -news.” Are we ladies to take this as a compliment, or otherwise?</p> - -<p>It is proposed to carry the railway from Cue on to Nannine. -The Cue people do not want this, as it would make Nannine -the centre and spoil Cue. A splendid court-house and warden’s -offices are here, as well as many other fine public buildings, -shops, dwelling-houses, and hotels.</p> - -<p>There are some good mines, but a great many of them are -under exemption at present; that means, allowed to stop working -for a specified time named in their application; consequently -many men are out of work and the town is comparatively quiet, -because these men have to go out back-prospecting, to keep -their wives and children.</p> - -<p>There are many families in Victoria and elsewhere who -bless the day when the goldfields of Western Australia were -discovered, and a great many miners in these districts have -brought over their wives and families and have made humble -but comfortable homes for them. They all seem happy, and -I have talked with many of the women, who tell me that, though -the life is rather rough, yet they have money always regularly -coming in, while, on the other side, they had nothing to keep -themselves with the failure of the banks and general crash in -Melbourne having ruined so many people.</p> - -<p>Coming back from a drive I passed the racecourse, with such -a funny little grand-stand, perched on top of a rocky hill. There -was to be a wild-flower show soon. The ladies were working -hard to make it a success. There seemed to be a great many -of them here, and yet it is only a few years since the arrival of a -fair lady in Cue was an event of importance, in which almost the -entire population showed their interest by crowding round the -coach. Wages are still very good. A housekeeper will get £3 a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_317"></a>[317]</span> -week; barmaids, £3 10<i>s.</i>; housemaids and waitresses, £2 10<i>s.</i>; -and a lady to whom I was speaking told me she was extremely -tired, from having had to do all the washing for the family -herself, as the laundrywoman wanted £1 per day for doing it, -or 15<i>s.</i> for half a day! Chinese are sometimes engaged as -servants, and, as a rule, give satisfaction. No Chinaman or -coloured man is allowed to mine; in Western Australia they -are tolerated as gardeners or servants only.</p> - -<p>Mr. A. W. Walder has a large station called Coodardy, 20 -miles from Cue. It extends nearly 100 miles up towards Lake -Way. There are always 1500 head of cattle and 4000 or 5000 -sheep on it to supply the necessities of the Cue and Mount -Magnet districts. This number is supplemented by drafts from -the far north, even as far as Gascoyne and Kimberley. The -feed is good, as may be supposed from the beautiful quality -of the meat. It is chiefly salt-bush, of which the stock are -very fond, and which does not grow very high, but is most -nourishing. The water supply for them is drawn from wells -by blacks kept for that purpose.</p> - -<p>Day Dawn, where the largest mines are situated, is four -miles from Cue. One of these is called the Consolidated -Murchison Gold Mines, Limited. The machinery on these -mines is magnificent, and has cost an enormous sum of money. -The cyanide process, all of which the assayer showed me, was -most interesting. The various articles used in assaying -are very delicate—scales that will weigh a breath and little -wee china basins the size of a doll’s cup. The splendid -laboratory was full of different chemicals; there were three -immense rooms for the cyanide and assaying processes.</p> - -<p>Coming back to Cue, I called at the Lady Forrest Mine, -which is in quite a picturesque spot, and I was not surprised -at the beautifully arranged collection of wild flowers and ferns -that the manager had picked around the mine and dried. The -mine not working, he had plenty of time to pursue his favourite -pastime of botany. He also showed me a fine collection of -choice orchids; these are found at the Granites, a few miles<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_318"></a>[318]</span> -out. Parrots, with brilliant colouring, and cockatoos, are to be -seen about here, especially when you are near a soak (well). -Occasionally an iguana glides along, looking like a tiny land-alligator. -Iguanas, though not agreeable to the eye, are -considered almost sacred in the Bush, because they destroy -snakes.</p> - -<p>The Island is a wonderful little place, a real treasure-house, -16 miles from Cue. It is in the centre of the salt lake -Austin (called after Robert Austin, the explorer), from which -it is separated by channels 1000 yards wide. The lake, like -all Western Australian lakes, is dry; but when the sun is -shining on it it looks like a sheet of glistening gold.</p> - -<p>The Mainland, dignified sometimes by the name of Salt Lake -City, is a few miles farther off. I do not know whether there -are any Mormons settled there or not. There are several good -mines at the Mainland and the Island. The reefs are highly -auriferous. The Golconda is the largest mine, giving very rich -yields, and is now owned by an English syndicate. The representatives -of this mine are very careful not to let outside people -know too much about it; they keep the doors of the battery -locked, and no one is allowed to go in to inspect. The Island -Eureka is a small but rich mine owned by a syndicate on the -Island. Mrs. Hurfit, who is part-owner of the mine, lives close -to it. This lady who is the first white woman that came to -these parts, showed me a fine collection of specimens of all -kinds of minerals found here. The gold quartz is very -beautiful. The jewellery Mrs. Hurfit has had made from it by -Streeter, of London, is unique, some of the polished quartz with -veins of gold showing through it being the handsomest I have -ever seen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_319"></a>[319]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus92" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus92.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">COLONEL NORTH’S EXPEDITION TO MOUNT MAGNET</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_320"></a>[320]</span></p> - -<p>Seeing a peculiar-looking place on a hill, I climbed up to see -what it was, and found a large hut composed of big flat stones. -These stones were lying around in great quantities. Some men -were working near, but they were Italians, and as they could -not speak English and I could not speak Italian, our conversation -was nil. The view from the hill was charming; the salt<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_321"></a>[321]</span> -lakes shimmering in the sun, the flat country with the grass -and wild flowers, the low-lying purple hills in the background, -a lovely and most peculiar colouring in the sky, the rising -stacks of the mines, and the high metaphoric rocks in the distance, -formed an uncommon and pretty picture. Just as I was -leaving, the sun came out with unusual brilliancy, casting exquisite -reflections on the glistening golden sand, which seemed to -crystallise into various forms. I almost felt as if I had dropped -into fairyland, but in a moment the sun hid behind a cloud and -the beautiful scene was gone.</p> - -<p>There are about 150 people at the Island and Mainland, and -they all appear to be in comfortable positions. On the day I left -it was raining heavily, and I had to wait an hour at the station -for the train, which was late in arriving. This brought to my -mind the story of a gentleman who had promised to attend at a -certain place and make a speech, but found himself unable to -do so on account of the heavy rains having destroyed a -section of the railway line. Accordingly he wired, “Cannot -come; wash out on the line.” The reply came: “Come any -way; borrow a shirt.”</p> - -<p>At last the train made its appearance, and I took my seat and -went to Mount Magnet (not to be confused with Mount -Margaret, which is in quite a different part of the country), -about 32 miles farther on. On arrival there the railway station -was so crowded that I could scarcely get out. There were -about 300 young men of all sorts and sizes, and with such -jolly smiling faces that I began to feel quite hilarious myself. -They turned out to be the successful footballers just returned -from a match at Cue. Several buggies and horses were waiting -at the station, and I had no difficulty in being conveyed to an -hotel, which bore the significant name of “The Oasis.”</p> - -<p>My first impression of Mount Magnet next morning was -that there were a great many donkeys—I mean, of course, of -the four-footed variety. They seemed to perambulate the town -in dozens, and a team of about 20 going out of town with a -wagon was a novel sight. I can assure you that, while I was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_322"></a>[322]</span> -writing these words, two inquisitive donkeys put in their heads -at the door and almost said “Good-morning,” recognising a -friend, perhaps. The outlook from this place was very dreary, -as nearly always seems to be the case where gold is found. -Several nice specimens had just been brought into the hotel by -a lucky prospector, some of the pieces weighing several ounces. -The Mount is about four miles from Magnet township, and -was named Mount Magnet in 1854 by Mr. Austin, because the -stone was so mineralised that it attract the compass to an -extent which rendered it useless. Despite the barren-looking -country, there are many varieties of wild flowers growing in the -neighbourhood, and the desert octopus or tiger-plant is most -remarkable. It bears a fairylike pink flower, and seems -almost to be a living thing. The leaves of the plant are remarkably -sensitive, and there are numerous little caplike -flowers fringed with tentacles and filled with a sweet substance; -any insect that approaches is seized, and the plant, which -grows only a few inches in height, and is also known as -“Rainbow” or “Fly-trap,” absorbs the life of it.</p> - -<p>Five miles away is Boogardie, or Jones’ Well. A singular -discovery was recently made there. Portions of underground -rock, on being broken, were found to contain a living frog at a -depth of 40 feet! Many of these have been found. Query, how -did they get there?</p> - -<p>There are many tidy houses in the little township; one -Hessian camp, containing three separate rooms, was most tastefully -arranged with pretty art-muslin and cretonne, a nice carpet -on the ground, and cane furniture beautifully draped. The -bedroom was quite elegant, and the kitchen had cocoanut -matting on the ground; there were, as usual, no floors. A -bright Peerless Cooker stove and spotlessly white dresser and -crockery finished as natty a little home as a man and woman -could wish for. The men out here all work their own claims, -and are very comfortably off.</p> - -<p>A few miles from Magnet is the Morning Star, a low-grade -mine, but still a paying one. Mr. Bryant, the manager, made<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_323"></a>[323]</span> -me most welcome, and explained to me very conclusively that, -to make a mine pay, it is not necessary to find gold in -occasional very large pieces, and that a steady quantity, -though small, will, if the supply hold out, prove profitable. -The mine is worked almost entirely by men from Clunes, -Victoria, where Mr. Bryant formerly was; they have quite a -camp of their own, and with their reading-room and recreation-ground, -where they play cricket and football, they pass a very -jolly life and seem quite contented. Total abstinence is the -rule of this mine. Before the train service was started they -had to cart all the machinery and stores 200 miles to the -mine. Farther -on is Lennonville, -another -important -mining centre, -where rich -finds have -lately been -struck; and -farther still, -what is called the 10-Mile. There are many good mines -in these localities. The Long Reef is a fine mine, and with its -magnificent new machinery looks imposing. The plant is one -of the finest in Western Australia, and there is enough good -ore to show profitable results for years to come.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus93" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus93.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Donkey Team, Mount Magnet</p> -</div> - -<p>Coming back from these mines I stopped at the Lennonville -Hotel (to have dinner), the landlady of which was the biggest -woman I had ever seen, she weighed over twenty-one stone.</p> - -<p>The scenery of this district is far more pleasing than the -barrenness of Magnet township. There are plenty of enormous -emus scudding through the scrub, and occasionally a few kangaroos -enliven the scene. Some of the big hills are completely -riddled with enormous holes made by the earthworm. It must -have taken centuries to make these tunnels. I thought they -must be mining excavations, but one of the mining managers,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_324"></a>[324]</span> -who is a mining expert and engineer, and who ought to know, -told me they were the work of earthworms.</p> - -<p>In another direction from Magnet is the New Chum Mine; -farther on the Two Chums, and others; all giving good results.</p> - -<p>There is a fine hospital, with a skilful surgeon, such skill -being very necessary where mining accidents ate liable to -occur. The country is by no means unhealthy, and there -were only four patients in the hospital on the day I visited it. -The nurses seemed to be very kind women, and the patients -said it was like being nursed at home to be in the Magnet -Hospital.</p> - -<p>East Mount Magnet is about 50 miles away, and the coach -journey to it is tedious. There is a tidy little township, and -some of the mines are very rich. Mr. Zeb. Lane, before -going to London last year, paid a visit to this place, and took -over the Windsor Castle Mine, a fine property, upon which -Mr. Lane estimates that there are 25,000 tons of good ore -at sight ready to pay handsome dividends. The Havelock -Mine has given splendid results, and a wonderful collection of -specimens was recently lodged in the Bank. Christmas Gift is -another good mine, and not far off is another rich find called -Payneville. Several rich patches have been found and -hundreds of ounces of gold taken out of them. The district -seems to have a bright future before it. I was glad to return -to Magnet, and to have made my last coach journey for the -present. One of the miners to whom I was speaking looked so -fearfully cadaverous that I asked him what was the matter. He -told me he had once been poisoned by lead in a mine, and had -never got the poison out of his system. I told him about the new -cure by electricity lately discovered. He seemed very thankful -and said he would see the mine doctor about it at once. Over 30 -experiments with this cure have lately been carried out -successfully in England, and I hope it will soon be generally -known, and many cures made in the colonies.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_325"></a>[325]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</h2> - -<p>Yalgoo—A Cold Welcome—Native Shepherds—Geraldton—Pearls—The -Abrolhos—Dutch Navigators—Aborigines—Finis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>I reached the uninteresting township of Yalgoo at 2 o’clock, -very cold, tired and hungry. I stepped from the train with my -portmanteau and sallied out of the station to look for a vehicle -to take me to the hotel to which I had been recommended; but, -alas! there was no sign of a conveyance. A drearier-looking -place I never saw. So disheartened did I feel that I returned -and got back into the railway carriage again, intending to -resume the journey and go on to Geraldton; but on looking out -of the now open window I saw so many nice and jolly-faced -people on the platform that I thought it might not be so bad a -place after all, so I took a second thought and got out of the -carriage once more. Approaching the gate I discovered a small -boy in charge of a cart, on which I placed my belongings, and -told him to take them to the Emerald Hotel, I walking behind. -When we arrived there he put out my luggage and left me. -Not a soul was about the hotel or the street. I felt like a sailor -in a desert. I essayed to reconnoitre the place, and went -in and out of several rooms, with no result. I then tried the -kitchen, and found every one out there also, except the fire, -which luckily was in, so I took possession and sat down on a -box to warm myself. Looking out of the window, I saw two -enormous emus stalking about and peering into everything. -I was afterwards told that they are the most curious birds -in existence, and their prying ways often cause them to be -taken captive. Presently the cook turned up; strange to say, -a woman cook, as most cooks in these parts are Japanese men.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_326"></a>[326]</span> -I asked her for some dinner; she said she had none in the -hotel, it was all at the railway station. I may as well here -explain that the proprietor of the hotel also caters for the -railway station, and his staff goes down there to attend to the -train passengers at the dinner-hour, everybody who requires -dinner being supposed to get it there. The whole male -population of Yalgoo goes to see the train come in; it is the -event of the day. However, the cook made me a nice cup -of tea and some hot toast, and boiled some fresh eggs, after -partaking of which I felt myself again. Taking a look out of -the front door I saw the street just as deserted as ever, so, -going into a bedroom, I took a siesta until 4 o’clock, when -sounds about the neighbourhood told me that the townsfolk -had returned from the railway station. I accordingly went -forth to make their acquaintance, and having done so I am -able to speak of them in the warmest terms.</p> - -<p>The township being such a barren-looking place I was -surprised, on driving around, to find very beautiful environs. -The rains had brought up millions of wild flowers of all -colours, and the grass and trees were exceptionally green. -There are a great many sheep stations in this district, and -the mines are a considerable distance away, so I did not go -to them. The exception was the Emerald Mine, which is -almost in the township, and which has returned its owners -a large fortune. Fifteen thousand pounds worth of gold was -dollied out of it before it was sold to an English company, -who then erected machinery and crushed large quantities -of rich ore with big results. It was on this spot that Yalgoo’s -first find was made by a native shepherd and his lubra, -who told some prospectors that they knew of a quartz-heap -with bright stuff on it. You may be sure the prospectors -lost no time in finding the heap; other finds followed, and -the Yalgoo rush commenced. Aboriginal shepherds are almost -the only ones to be had in the West, and they are not very -reliable; yet if any animal is lost they can always find it; they -are wonderful trackers, and can follow up the track of anything<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_329"></a>[329]</span> -alive; this power has been cultivated in them by hunting for -food from infancy.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_327"></a>[327]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus94" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus94.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MARINE TERRACE, GERALDTON</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_328"></a>[328]</span></p> - -<p>The next day I left Yalgoo, longing ardently for a breath of -sea air once more. After a journey of eight hours in the -train I arrived at Geraldton, on the shores of Champion Bay; -the town nearest the point at which the history of the colony -really commences. It is a shipping port for a large agricultural -and pastoral country, although as yet only 2000 acres are under -cultivation. I went for many beautiful drives, and one night -to a “social” given by the footballers, to which I was invited; -but as I did not dance, and contented myself with being a -“wallflower,” my participation in the enjoyment was not very -keen; I consequently returned early to my comfortable parlour -at the Club Hotel. The new public buildings here are quite -an ornament to the town, and the people may well be proud of -them. There are also some other fine buildings and many -nice shops. Altogether Geraldton is a very jolly place in which -to spend a holiday. It can be reached from Perth by boat -instead of the long train journey of 297 miles, for the steamers -going to the far north of Western Australia and Singapore -every fortnight always call; there are also several coasting-boats. -The extensive and rich goldfields of the Murchison -make Geraldton a very important place, and in course of time, -when the North is more known and visited, it will, no doubt, -become one of the most important towns in Western Australia.</p> - -<p>Some beautiful pearls were shown me by a trader from -Sharks Bay in the North-west district of Western Australia, -and I wished I were a queen who could order a necklace of -them. As it was I had to content myself with one for a ring. -They were really exquisite gems, especially three pink ones. -The trader also had two black ones, which are rare and very -valuable, but I prefer those of delicate hue.</p> - -<p>Pearls to the value of £285,000 and pearl shell valued at -£1,000,000 have been raised from the North West Fisheries -during the last ten years. Nearly two hundred luggers, with -over a thousand Malay, Japanese, Chinese, and Manilla men,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_330"></a>[330]</span> -with whites for officers, are engaged in the pearl industry. -For diving, natives are chiefly employed, they being such -wonderful swimmers and divers. Occasionally dissensions -take place between these mixed people and their masters. Not -long ago a terrible tragedy occurred on a pearling vessel, the -<i>Ethel</i>, and the captain, his son, and the first mate were -cruelly murdered by some of the Manilla and Malay crew. The -offenders escaped at the time, but were afterwards captured -(chiefly by the instrumentality of a poor Chinese cook, who was -loyal), and have since paid the penalty of their terrible crime.</p> - -<p>There is a pretty river near this place, called the Chapman, -which falls into Champion Bay. Garnets are found in the sand -near the mouth of it, and you may be sure that any one who -visits the place spends some time looking for the jewels. I was -no exception to the rule, and found a few small ones, but until -they are polished they are not very beautiful.</p> - -<p>The orange groves are exquisite, and produce quantities of -splendid oranges. Mr. Jupp, one of the growers, had just sent -into Geraldton some immense loads, the whole of his golden -crop. The rainfall having been exceptional in the previous -season, the country was bright with grass and flowers. It -seemed quite a pity the fine grass should not be feeding more -cattle.</p> - -<p>The view from the top of the lighthouse, where we stopped -on the way back from a river picnic, is very grand. The rocky -Abrolhos, 35 miles away, with the surrounding agricultural -country, Champion Bay, and, farther out still, the grand rolling -Indian Ocean, make up a most impressive scene. The lighthouse -has a revolving white light, brilliantly flashing every -40 seconds, and visible for 16 miles; two other lights, lower -down, showing red rays, visible from the north and south. -Another day I drove to Greenough Flats, a level and fertile -plain, with many fine crops, principally wheat, under cultivation. -These flats were, no doubt, in former days vast lagoons, -which accounts for the unlimited supply of good underground -water. The grass is very nutritious, and the sheep and cattle<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_331"></a>[331]</span> -looked fat. At Minchooka, Mr. Redhead’s station, the stock was -looking exceptionally well, and a fine crop of wheat returned -26 bushels per acre from 11 acres. Mr. T. McGuiness, of -Greenough Back Flats, lately had a peculiar experience while -cleaning out his well, which is 96 feet deep, and was dry. In -the hope of obtaining a fresh supply, Mr. McGuiness sank the -well 13 feet deeper, and, when driving down his bar, struck -water, which spouted up so quickly and with such a rush that -he had hardly time to escape drowning; the water rose 30 feet -in a very short space of time.</p> - -<p>The Greenough river runs between the flats, and there is a -nice little township, with public offices, hotels, churches, and -many comfortable dwelling-houses; there are also several large -farms in the district, which is a magnificent grain-producing -one.</p> - -<p>Newmarracarra Station, 20 miles from Geraldton, was formerly -the property of Mr. Maitland Browne, the resident magistrate, -who at one time used his land exclusively for horse-breeding. -Thirty thousand acres of the station are now utilised -for sheep-farming at great profit, there are 24,000 sheep on -the run in splendid condition, as well as many beautiful high-bred -cattle. Mr. McKenzie Grant, the owner, manages this -station himself, and has spent £55,000 on improvements. -A grand water supply comes from the Greenough river and also -from twelve springs in different parts of the land, which is -very picturesque, with its hills and rich flats, covered with -waving grass, and, in some spots, is brilliant with wild flowers. -All kinds of native trees add beauty to the scene.</p> - -<p>Mr. Broadhurst, to whom I am indebted for all the information -relating to the Abrolhos, 35 miles from the mainland, gave -me, as a great favour, a copper coin from the <i>Batavia</i>, wrecked -there in 1629, also a part of a pair of scissors that have nearly -lost their form, and other relics of the past. A very -interesting curiosity is a pair of large silver buttons with -links, in splendid preservation and very slightly tarnished. -The figures on these buttons represent Joseph and Potiphar’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_332"></a>[332]</span> -wife. The Abrolhos are the abode of countless millions of -birds, principally the noddy and sooty tern, which in the -breeding season congregate there in such numbers that the sky -is quite obscured by their flight, and everything is in almost -total darkness. The group of islands have been leased from -the Government since 1883 by Messrs. Broadhurst and -McNeill, who command a very large trade in guano. The -main stations in the group are Rat, Pelsart, and Gun Islands, -on each of which there are commodious managers’ quarters and -laboratory, besides kitchen and quarters for 48 hands. No -Australian should neglect to see the relics of the wrecks on the -Abrolhos that are in the Perth Museum. Mr. Broadhurst -showed me a book, printed in the Dutch language, that he -accidentally came across on a London bookstall in 1895, being -then on a tour and engaged in collecting information concerning -early Australia. The book bore the date of 1647, and has -since been translated into English by Mr. Siebenhaur, a Dutch -gentleman in Perth, and proved to be, strange to say, a complete -narrative of the wreck of the <i>Batavia</i> and the massacre of -the people, in 1629, at the Abrolhos Islands. The <i>Batavia</i> was -the commodore’s ship of a fleet of eleven vessels sent from -Amsterdam in 1628 to the East Indies in search of treasure -and to form a colony on one of the islands. Storms arose, the -commodore’s vessel was separated from the others, and finally -got down among the perilous banks of the Abrolhos, where the -vessel became a wreck. After much danger, the people, numbering -several hundreds—soldiers, sailors, women and children—were -landed on two of the islands, several trips having to be -made between the ship and the shore before this could be effected. -Some water and bread was also got ashore, as well as some -cases of treasure, jewels, and gold-laced clothing belonging to -the Dutch Government that the commodore was anxious to save. -The ship shortly afterwards foundered and the hardships of the -seafarers commenced. It was found that there was very little -fresh water on the island, so the commodore, Pelsart, and -several of the men set off in the sloop, which had been saved,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_333"></a>[333]</span> -to the mainland to look for water for their fellows. After much -difficulty six of them succeeded in landing by swimming, the -shore being stony and rocky, and great breakers beating -violently against the rocks so that it was not safe to take the -sloop in too near. They saw smoke rising, and going towards -it, saw four dark figures creeping on their hands and knees, -who, on the approach of the sailors, leaped to their feet and fled -away at full speed. Each carried a stick, no doubt a boomerang. -Around the fires were the bones of birds. The savages were -naked, and were the first ever seen on Australian soil by white -men. The sailors dug holes, trying to find fresh water, but -could find very little, and returned to the ship disconsolate. The -commodore then, knowing that by returning to the islands he -could do no good for his fellow sufferers, determined to return -to Batavia for assistance. On arrival there he obtained speedy -help from the Government, and provided with all necessaries -and a good crew, at once set out again for the Abrolhos -to succour the shipwrecked people. On arrival there they -saw, close to where they had been wrecked, smoke from -several fires, and were much rejoiced, hoping to find all or most -of the poor people alive. Having cast anchor, the commodore, -taking with him a cask of water, bread and wine, went in his -boat to the highest island, but on arrival there found no one, at -which he was much astonished. Jumping ashore, they saw a -little boat coming round the northern point with four men -rowing; one of them jumped ashore and welcomed the commodore, -but begged him to return to the ship, as there was a -party of miscreants who intended to seize the vessel. He then -told the terrible story of the massacre. These miscreants had -murdered 120 people on the island, now called Pelsart Island, -or “Batavia’s Churchyard.” The commodore then sorrowfully -returned to the ship. The man who told the commodore all this -was named Webbey Hayes, and he with forty others had tried -their best to save their comrades, and were then on what they -called Long Island. The commodore took some boats and men and -brought them away, arming them with muskets. With these he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_334"></a>[334]</span> -proceeded to Batavia’s Churchyard and captured the mutineers. -They found them all dressed in the beautiful clothes trimmed -with gold lace belonging to the Government, and jewels were -scattered about in all directions. The mutineers were divested -of their gay clothes, put in irons and conveyed to Seal Island, -to remain there till they should be tried, which was afterwards -done, and they were then executed for their crimes. This is a -very short and crude synopsis of the interesting translation of -the Dutch book of -which I have spoken, -but may serve to give -some idea of the -Abrolhos. The -many curios of this -time that are spoken -of on page 51 -are well worth -seeing. Previous to -this, in 1540, Portuguese -vessels had -been driven on to -the coasts of the -Great South Land, -as it was called. -Houtmann, a Dutchman -who had served -with the Portuguese, had sighted the cluster of rocky islets -and called them Abrolhos, a contraction of the Portuguese -“Abro vos olhos” (“Keep your eyes open”). In far-back -ages Chinese junks used to sail down to the Gulf of -Carpentaria, and the natives of that part of Australia are -now said to have a distinctly Mongolian cast of countenance. -Marco Polo, at the close of the thirteenth century, alluded to -the Great South Land. Allusions to this unknown land are -also met with in writings dating as far back as Alexander -the Great in the fourth century; Strabo, Pliny and Ptolemy also<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_335"></a>[335]</span> -make mention of a mysterious territory, which was probably -the continent of Australia. Dampier is said to have been the -first Englishman to land on the coast of Western Australia, -which was then, in the reign of William III., called New -Holland. His report was so unfavourable, that Australia was -left to itself again until 1770, when Captain Cook landed at -Botany Bay, New South Wales, and not until 60 years afterwards -was Western Australia found to be suitable for colonising. -In 1829 the first governor, Captain (afterwards Sir James) -Stirling, with his family and over 60 settlers, arrived at the -Swan River and founded the settlement which is now the city -of Perth; two years previous to this, Captain Fremantle had -hoisted the British flag at the entrance of the river, and the -port of Fremantle is named after him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp78" id="illus95" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus95.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Four generations of the Western Australian Native</p> -</div> - -<p>For some time past I have been collecting all the facts of -interest that I could concerning the natives of Australia, and -have gathered a really fine collection of the native weapons, -boomerangs, nulla-nullas, spears, waddies, womerahs, shields, -&c. There are a good many aborigines about Geraldton at -present, but civilisation has made them lazy, and it is not easy -to get many of their weapons. Mine have chiefly been given to -me by friends who have gone to the trouble of collecting them -for years. The blacks are not a very pleasant race, still we -ought to have a kindly feeling for the poor creatures, whose -chief capacities seem to be hunting, fishing, and tracking. Their -own laws, and the way they keep them, are somewhat remarkable, -especially those relating to the affinities and the division -of the people into families.</p> - -<p>There are four tribes or clans amongst the aborigines of -Western Australia, namely—Booranggnoo, Banagher, Kimera, -Palgarie. A Booranggnoo man may marry a Banagher woman, -their children will be Kimera; a Banagher man may marry a -Booranggnoo woman, their children will be Palgarie; a Kimera -man may marry a Palgarie woman, their children will be Booranggnoo; -a Palgarie man may marry a Kimera woman, their -children will be Banagher.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_336"></a>[336]</span></p> - -<p>Children take the name of the mother, and intermarriage -between the same tribe is not allowed. Polygamy is -permitted. A native may have several wives and various -families, but each family incurs the responsibilities of the -mother, and all such relations become involved in the guilt -of any crime; if the offender cannot be reached, any other -relative may have to suffer instead. In case of death by -violence, the nearest relative of the slayer is found and punished. -Homicide in obedience to law is therefore common among them. -Their law is blood for blood, an eye for an eye, a tooth for a -tooth. Girls are betrothed when they are young, and may be -claimed at any time. A blackfellow must take his lubra (wife) -from the clan or tribe which alone is eligible to give a wife to -him, otherwise he becomes an outcast. The women are -severely punished by the men even for trifling offences. On -the death of the husband the wives and children pass to his -brother; all property in land is held for hunting and obtaining -food. They are very fond of music and dancing, their songs -being chiefly extempore. The dances, or corroborees, are -adapted to the various circumstances of their lives—marriage, -birth, death, war or hunting. It is not usual for the women to -take part in these dances, but on rare occasions they do, and -they carry a peeled stick tufted at one end, as was the custom of -the ancient Bacchantes. Songs are composed by musical natives -of the clan, and are soon learnt: every blackfellow knows -the songs of his clan, and if one is composed for any special -occasion it is soon learned. The food of these natives is very -varied and peculiar, one kind being the knomat, the gum of the -swamp mimosa. There are also six kinds of kangaroo eaten, two -kinds of opossum, twenty-nine sorts of fish, three kinds of turtle, -emu, wild turkey, and many kinds of waterfowl; frogs, seven -kinds of lizards, four kinds of grubs, twenty-nine roots, seven -fungi, four gums, two kinds of manna, four fruits, four nuts—two -of the zamia, which are poisonous without proper preparation—the -seeds of many plants and the flowers of the banksia. -Cannibalism is not common, but has been known in the North<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_337"></a>[337]</span> -and East. The weapons employed are suited for the chase as -well as war. These are the codja or hatchet, the dabba or knife, -the meera or throwing-stick, the guicka or spear, the dowark or -club, the womerah or digging-stick, and the killy or boomerang, -which they throw with great skill. Their skill in hunting is -remarkable, weirs are made for fish, stakes driven to intercept -the kangaroos at their watering-places, and the fish are -commonly speared by day and by torchlight. Their mias, or -huts, vary in construction from a light shell made of brushwood -to a dome, large enough to contain several persons, of logs covered -with clay, and in size according to season and locality. -From the Murchison northward, and also in the interior, the -natives go naked; but southward, near the coast, the dress is the -“booka,” a sort of cloak made of kangaroo-skins, that of the -men being longer than that of the women, who use bags of -skin, coota or boka, and mats of vegetable fibre, for carrying -their children and domestic necessaries. They have many -ornaments, and work opossum fur with yarn to make girdles -for carrying things and bands to twine round the head to stick -feathers in. They tattoo their bodies, and during the operation -of tattooing, other natives swing round small curved pieces of -wood, producing a whirring noise. They cover themselves with -wilgey, a sort of red ochre, charcoal, or white clay. They send -messages by marked sticks or bomar, the markings being -quite intelligible to them, but to us just looking like a number -of jagged chips in the sticks. They are not deficient in gratitude, -but rather treacherous, although they will offer themselves -up for punishment, a thing which very few white men ever do. -They are very superstitious; the power of evil is a constant -source of terror to them. They have their karakats, boolga-men, -or medicine-men, able to inflict as well as cure diseases. -They greatly fear an evil spirit, Jingie, and an imaginary -monster, Wangul, inhabiting the fresh waters, and chiefly -making victims of women. Each family has its kobong, or -cognisance, some animal or vegetable for which they have a -reverence, and which, therefore, is not used as food by the family<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_338"></a>[338]</span> -who adopt it. Some of the domestic and personal habits of the -natives resemble those inculcated by the laws of Moses. Their -social intercourse is regulated by very strict and ceremonious -customs. There are forms of meeting, also forms of parting. -Mrs. Canfield, who had charge of the school at Amesfield, -Albany, especially reports their fondness for music. One girl, -sent to Sydney, played the harmonium in St. Philip’s Church -for some time. Several other native scholars have become -good housewives; some are now employed as school-teachers. -Mrs. Canfield also notes the fondness of the boys for mechanical -arts. The native Mission home is near Guildford, and another -is in the Vasse district, but there are only about 40 children -in each place. The natives around Geraldton are half-civilised; -in fact, some speak quite good English. I suppose the heavy -fine of £50 for supplying drink to natives keeps them sober, -as they find it difficult to obtain strong drink, of which they -are very fond. They have been known to go to a large heap<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_339"></a>[339]</span> -of bottles, and taking one, empty into it the dregs of all the -others, until they get sufficient to take a drink, which they -seem to relish exceedingly.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp93" id="illus96" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus96.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">Aborigines with Spears</p> -</div> - -<p>Native wells or “namma-holes” have saved may a prospector -from death by thirst, and men well used to the Bush soon -know how to find them. Some of the wells are not more than -two feet deep; others go down to ten or twelve feet, and are -usually found by rock-holes, or certain trees that are near them. -Some wells have a small drive at the bottom, so arranged by -the blacks that, when the water gets shallow, it cannot be seen -from the top of the hole. The old prospectors have learned -from the blacks how to find these oases in the desert, but “new -chums” might pass dozens while parched with thirst and never -find one.</p> - -<p>After saying good-bye to the numerous friends I had made -in Geraldton, I set out for the south in the Perth mail-train, -my destination, however, being Dongarra, a little station 24 -miles from Geraldton. On alighting there I found that the -hotel was some distance off, and I regretted that I had got out of -the train at all. However, a good-natured boy with a cart solved -my dilemma by saying: “Get up, missus, I’ll give you a lift.” I -accepted his invitation with much pleasure, and drove on through -wonderful grass lands. I thought, as it waved in the wind, that -this must be a cultivated crop, but found it to be common wild -grass. A great deal of the land about here is rented to the -farmers at 10<i>s.</i> per acre, and they have an average yield of 16 to -25 bushels of wheat and 30 bushels of barley. Wheat can be -grown at a large profit, as the cost of growing it is not more -than 4<i>d.</i> a bushel, and the timber being light in the district, the -expense of clearing the land is small.</p> - -<p>There are a number of farms about Dongarra, which is one of -the prettiest little country places I have seen in the colony. The -township is situated near the mouth of the Irwin river, and so -there is no lack of water. There is a small and safe harbour at -Dongarra, formed by a reef at the river’s mouth, which is the -outlet to the valley of the river. There are many early settlers<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_340"></a>[340]</span> -living here. The following notice that was fastened on a tree -I thought very comical: “If any man or woman’s cows or -horses get into this paddock, his or her tail will be forthwith -cut off, with no respect to persons.” This is on a par with a -letter written by a justice of the peace in one of the places that -shall be nameless:—</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“To J. murphy: thars 5 kows of yourse runnin in mi paddock -and if they aint tuk out be Frida nite ime goin to sit the lor agen -yer; ime on the binch and ile make it warm for yer.”</p> -</div> - -<p>The little hotel at Dongarra proved very comfortable, and -next morning I resumed my journey in the train, which took -all day. In the afternoon we stopped for awhile at a place -called Watheroo. I gathered a pretty bunch of wild flowers -while waiting; some red ones especially took my fancy. They -smelt very sweet, something like honeysuckle. I found that -they were of the “verticordia” species, and that they grow in -great profusion near the Irwin river. In the evening, at seven -o’clock, I left the train at Gingin, for I wanted to see some of -the famous orange and lemon groves there. After quite a -pastoral supper at the little inn where I put up I retired early, -feeling somewhat fatigued after my long journey in the slow -train. In the morning I set out to see some of the groves. -The forest scenery through which I passed looked particularly -grand after the monotony of the goldfields, and the beautiful -orange groves further enhanced the scene. I have seen oranges -growing in various parts, but the fruit hanging here in golden -clusters was the finest I had seen in Western Australia. In -returning I stopped at a large garden, where strawberries and -other fruits were growing; some children were picking the ripe -fruit, which looked so tempting that I went to the door of the -little homestead and asked whether I could buy some. “Oh, -certainly, and cream, too,” replied the mother of the children, -who had now come in with their spoils from the garden. After -I had finished my unexpected treat, the mother put on her big -white sun-bonnet (the usual head-covering in country parts),<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_343"></a>[343]</span> -and, with the children following, showed me all over her selection -and farm (which was a very fine one), and, with true -Australian hospitality, pressed on me many gifts of fruit and -flowers. There are about 350 people in the district of Gingin, -mostly gardeners and graziers; all kinds of cereals are grown, -as well as the fruits I have mentioned, and grapes of the finest -quality are produced. Fat cattle and horses are also raised for -export; a splendid clear stream of water runs near the township; -sportsmen can have good shooting, for kangaroo; wallaby -and wild duck are abundant in the vicinity of this pretty little -place, which is 50 miles from Perth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_341"></a>[341]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus97" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus97.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">FREMANTLE</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_342"></a>[342]</span></p> - -<p>In the morning I took the train for Perth and Fremantle, -and on arrival at the Perth railway station there, waiting for me, -were my own horse and Ralli car. Didn’t we spin along -through the park? I thought of the Mulga scrub and red -dust “out back”; here the roads were red, but “with a -difference,” and the grass and the trees delightfully fresh and -green; surely the water never looked so sparkling. In and -out through the trees along the winding road we drove, past -the little villas, with their sweet gardens, up the hill, around -the bend to the dearest spot on earth, “Home, sweet home.” -The house and verandah were almost hidden by the glossy -green leaves of the “Canadia” and passion vines; through the -lattice of the fern-houses peeped the delicate pink blossoms of -the tall ivy-geranium twined with the ever-flowering purple -runner. The gate-porch and garden fence were embroidered -from end to end with blue and green. Blue sea beyond, blue -sky above. The gate was open, and thus my journey of two -thousand miles came to an end. I hope that my record of it -may help the reader to gain an idea of Western Australia.</p> - -<p>Our hands are outstretched to our brothers and sisters across -the sea. We want them to come and work <i>with</i> us. Energy -and courage are the best cards to bring out to this big land. -Should they wish to see the country for themselves, as I have -done, I trust that my efforts will help to make their tour as -easy as possible.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_344"></a>[344]</span></p> - -<p>Like all new countries, it has its rough uncultivated tracts, -but I have also tried to show that it has its “meadow sweet” as -well. Hundreds of thousands of acres of the soil are waiting -to be tilled by strong willing hands and to yield richly of its -fruits, while underneath the earth is “golden,” “golden,” -overhead the glorious sun is shining, and the Austral sky -is blue.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp52" id="illus98" style="max-width: 21.875em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus98.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MAY VIVIENNE</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">FOOTNOTES</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> These are names given to each other by the Australian-born people -of the then separated colonies.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> For most of these particulars of the early days of the goldfields I am -indebted to Mr. Calvert’s book, “The Coolgardie Goldfield,” 1894.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> A stope is the part of the workings in a mine between the levels.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> The levels are the drives, or excavations, at different depths in a mine.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> Since the above was written the mine has been sunk over 100 feet, and -Mr. Merton has now gold valued at over a hundred thousand pounds.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> The nut of the tree that, when polished, makes pretty -ornaments.</p> - -</div> - -</div> - -<p class="titlepage">Printed by <span class="smcap">Ballantyne, Hanson & Co.</span><br /> -London & Edinburgh</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="butterfly" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/butterfly.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">The Golden Butterfly</p> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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