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diff --git a/old/69138-h/69138-h.htm b/old/69138-h/69138-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index ab8df1d..0000000 --- a/old/69138-h/69138-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9429 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8" /> - <title> - Shackleton in the Antarctic: Being the Story of the British Antarctic Expedition, 1907-1909, by Sir Ernest Shackleton\x97A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover_epub.jpg" type="image/x-cover" /> - <style> /* <![CDATA[ */ - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1.5em; -} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - border-collapse: collapse; -} -.tblcont {width: 70%;} -.tblcont tr:hover {background-color: #f5f5f5;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; -} /* page numbers */ - -.linenum { - position: absolute; - top: auto; - left: 4%; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; -} /* poetry number */ - -.bdt {border-top: 1px solid;} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} -.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} - -h1, h2, .caption2 {font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent:0;} -h1 {font-size:2.00em; margin-top: 1.5em;} -h2 {font-size:1.50em; margin-top: 1.0em;} -.caption2 {font-size:1.50em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 1.0em;} -.caption3nb {font-size:1.25em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 1.0em;} -.pmb2 {margin-bottom: 2em;} -.pmt4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.pmb4 {margin-bottom: 4em;} -.msmaller {font-size: 0.5em;} -.smaller {font-size: 0.8em;} -.larger {font-size: 1.25em;} -.blockquot p {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 2em; text-indent: -2em; text-align: justify;} -.ind3em {margin-left: 3em; text-indent:0;} - -sub, sup {font-size: 0.75em;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - -.caption { - font-size: 0.8em;; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry-container {text-align: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -.poetry {display: inline-block;} /* */ -.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} -.poetry .verse {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em;} -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:2em 0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -/* Poetry indents */ -.poetry .indent0 {text-indent: -3em;} -.poetry .indent1 {text-indent: -2.5em;} - - /* ]]> */ </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Shackleton in the Antarctic, by Ernest Shackleton</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Shackleton in the Antarctic</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>Being the story of the British Antarctic expedition, 1907-1909</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Ernest Shackleton</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: October 12, 2022 [eBook #69138]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tom Cosmas compiled from materials made available at The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain.</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SHACKLETON IN THE ANTARCTIC ***</div> - - - - -<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 351px;"> - <img src="images/cover.png" width="351" height="555" alt="" /> -</div> - - - - -<div class="figcenter" id="fronticepiece" style="width: 380px;"> - <img src="images/fronticepiece.png" width="380" height="554" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">The Commander of the Expedition</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h1 class="pmb2 nobreak" id="SHACKLETON"><span class="larger">SHACKLETON</span><br /> -<span class="smaller">IN THE ANTARCTIC</span><br /> -<span class="msmaller">BEING THE STORY OF THE BRITISH</span><br /> -<span class="msmaller">ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1907-1909</span></h1> -</div> - - -<h2 class="pmb4">BY SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON<br /> -C.V.O.</h2> - - -<div class="figcenter" id="logo" style="width: 92px; margin: 2em auto;"> - <img src="images/logo.png" width="92" height="88" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="pmb4 tdc">LONDON<br /> -WILLIAM HEINEMANN<br /> -MCMXI</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">- vi -</span></p> - - -<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc">SHACKLETON IN THE ANTARCTIC<br /> -ADAPTED FROM<br /> -THE HEART OF THE ANTARCTIC<br /> -<br/> -<i>First published (Two Volumes) November 1909</i><br /> -<i>Popular Edition ( One Volume) November 1910</i></p> - - - -<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc"><i>Copyright London 1909, by William Heinemann, and<br /> -Washington, U.S.A., by J. B. Lippincott Company</i></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">- vii -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table class="tblcont"> -<tr> - <td class="smaller">CHAP</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr smaller">PAGE</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">I.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Expedition</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">II.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Supplies and Equipment</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">15</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">III.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Ship, the Hut, and Other Necessities</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">18</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">IV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Staff and the Royal Visit</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">23</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">V.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">We Leave Lyttelton</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">26</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Antarctic Circle</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">31</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Attempt to Reach King Edward VII Land</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">36</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Landing of Stores and Equipment</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">46</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">IX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The "Nimrod" Leaves Us</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">52</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">X.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Winter Quarters at Cape Royds Outside</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">58</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Winter Quarters—Inside</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">63</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Sledging Equipment</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">68</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Our Ponies and Dogs</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">74</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mount Erebus</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">78</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Attacking Mount Erebus</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">80</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Conquest of Mount Erebus</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">87</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Preparations for the Winter Months</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">95</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Still in the Hut</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">98</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XIX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Preliminary Journeys</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">104</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Arrangements and Instructions</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">108</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Start to the South Pole</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">112</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Onward</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">117</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Beyond All Former Footsteps</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">122</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Highway to the South</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">126</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">On the Great Glacier</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">130</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">On the Plateau to the Farthest South</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">135</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Farthest South</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">142</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Return March</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">146</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXIX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Struggling Back</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">151</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Final Stage</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">158</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Notes on the Southern Journey</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">164</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Return of the "Nimrod"</span> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">- viii -</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">173</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Western Party</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">178</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Instructions for the Northern Party</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV">184</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Narrative of Professor David. We Start for - the Magnetic Pole</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV">187</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Across the Ice Barrier</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI">193</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Drygalski Glacier</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVII">199</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Crevasses</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVIII">203</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XXXIX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Upwards and Onwards</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIX">208</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XL.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Magnetic Pole</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XL">212</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Returning</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLI">216</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Obstacles In Our Course</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLII">222</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Safe Aboard</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLIII">226</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Return to New Zealand</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLIV">231</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Penguins. (Some Notes by James Murray, - Biologist to the Expedition)</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLV">238</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Adelies and Their Chicks</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLVI">245</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr">XLVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Notes</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XLVII">254</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">- ix -</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> - -<table class="tblcont"> -<tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr smaller">PAGE</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Section Showing Interior of <i>Nimrod</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_13">13</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Seal Suckling Young and Taking no Notice of Motor-Car</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_17">17</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Their Majesties King Edward and Queen Alexandra - Inspecting the Equipment on the <i>Nimrod</i> at Cowes</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_21">21</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Towing Steamer <i>Koonya</i> as Seen from the - <i>Nimrod</i> in a Heavy Sea. This Particular Wave Came - Aboard the <i>Nimrod</i> and Did Considerable Damage</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_25">25</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">View of the Great Ice Barrier</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_29">29</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Pushing Through Heavy Floes in the Ross Sea. The - Dark Line on the Horizon is a "Water Sky" and - Indicates the Existence of Open Sea</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_33">33</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Flight of Antarctic Petrels</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_37">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Nimrod</i> Moored Off Tabular Bergs</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_41">41</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Adelie Penguins at Cape Royds</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_45">45</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Nimrod</i> Lying Off the Penguin Rookery, Cape Royds</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_49">49</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Ponies Transporting Coal on Sledges at Back Door Bay</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_53">53</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Digging Out Stores After the Cases Had Been Buried in - Ice During a Blizzard</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_57">57</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Winter Quarters</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_61">61</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The First Slopes of Erebus</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_65">65</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Marston in His Bed</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_69">69</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Plan of the Hut at Winter Quarters</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_73">73</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A Group of the Shore Party at the Winter Quarters</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_77">77</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Ice Flowers on Newly-Formed Sea Ice Early in the Winter</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_81">81</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">One Thousand Feet Below the Active Cone</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_85">85</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The "Lion" of Erebus</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_89">89</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Crater of Erebus, 900 Feet Deep and Half a Mile wide. - Steam is Seen Rising on the Left. The Photograph - was Taken from the Lower Part of the Crater Edge</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_93">93</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Type Case and Printing Press for the Production of - the "Aurora Australis" in Joyce's and Wild's Cubicle - known as "The Rogues' Retreat"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_99">99</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Preparing a Sledge During the Winter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">- x -</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_103">103</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Leader of the Expedition in Winter Garb</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_107">107</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Motor-Car in the Garage, Maize-Crusher on the Right</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_111">111</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Southern Party Marching into the White Unknown</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_115">115</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Cape Barne and Inaccessible Island by Moonlight</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_119">119</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">New Land. The Party Ascended Mount Hope and Sighted - the Great Glacier, up which They Marched Through the - Gap. The Main Body of the Glacier Joins the Barrier - Further to the Left</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_129">129</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Lower Glacier Depot. The Stores Were Buried in the - Snow Near the Rock in the Foreground</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_133">133</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Camp below "The Cloud Maker"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_137">137</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Facsimile of Page of Shackleton's Diary</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_141">141</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Farthest South Camp After Sixty Hours' Blizzard</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_145">145</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Farthest South, January 9, 1909</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_149">149</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Camp Under the Granite Pillar, Half a Mile from the - Lower Glacier Depot, Where the Party Camped on - January 27</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_153">153</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Shackleton Standing by the Broken Southern Sledge, - Which was Replaced by Another at Grisi Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_157">157</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Return Journey of the Southern Party: At the Bluff Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_161">161</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Southern Party on Board the <i>Nimrod</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_165">165</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Nimrod</i> Pushing Through Heavy Pack Ice On Her - Way South</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_171">171</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Nimrod</i> Held Up in the Ice</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_177">177</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Bluff Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_181">181</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Motor Hauling Stores for a Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_185">185</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Loaded Sledge Showing the Distance Recorder or Sledge-meter</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_191">191</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Northern Party on the Plateau, New Year's Day</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_201">201</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Northern Party at the South Magnetic Pole</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_209">209</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Ready to Start Home</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_217">217</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A View of the Hut in Summer</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_227">227</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Emperor Penguins</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_237">237</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">An Adelie Calling for a Mate after Commencing the Nest</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_243">243</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Adelie Trying to Mother a Couple of Well-Grown Strangers</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_pg_247">247</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Penguins Listening to the Gramophone During the Summer</td> - <td class="tdr">251</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE EXPEDITION</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<p><span class="smcap">Men</span> go out into the void spaces of the world for various -reasons. Some are incited simply by a love of adventure, -some have a keen thirst for scientific knowledge, -and others are drawn away from trodden paths by the -mysterious fascination of the unknown. I think that -in my own case it was a combination of these factors -that determined me to try my fortune once again in -the frozen south.</p> - -<p>I had been invalided home before the conclusion of the -<i>Discovery</i> expedition, and I had the keenest desire to -see more of the vast continent that lies amid the -Antarctic snows and glaciers. Indeed the stark polar -lands grip the hearts of men who have lived on them -in a manner that can hardly be understood by people -who have never got outside the pale of civilisation. I -was convinced, moreover, that an expedition on the -lines I had in view could justify itself by the results of -its scientific work.</p> - -<p>The <i>Discovery</i> expedition had performed splendid -service in several important branches of science, and -I believed that a second expedition could carry the work -still further. For instance, the southern limits of the -Great Ice Barrier had not been defined, and it was -important to the scientific world that information should -be gained regarding the movement of the ice-sheet that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span> -forms the barrier. I also wanted to discover what lay -beyond the mountains to the south of latitude 82° 17′ -and whether the Antarctic continent rose to a plateau -similar to the one found by Captain Scott beyond the -western mountains.</p> - -<p>There was much also to be done in the fields of -meteorology, zoology, biology, mineralogy and general -geology, so much in fact that apart from the wish to -gain a higher latitude the expedition seemed to be -justified on scientific grounds alone.</p> - -<p>The difficulty that confronts most men who wish to -undertake exploration work is that of finance, and -for some time I was faced by financial problems; but -when the governments of Australia and New Zealand -came to my assistance, the position became more satisfactory.</p> - -<p>In the <i>Geographical Journal</i> for March 1907, I outlined -my plan of campaign, but this had materially to be -changed later on owing to circumstances. "The shore-party -of nine or twelve men will winter with sufficient -equipment to enable three separate parties to start out -in the spring," I announced. "One party will go east, -and, if possible, across the Barrier to the new land -known as King Edward VII Land, the second party -will proceed south over the same route as that of the -southern sledge-party of the <i>Discovery</i>, the third party -will possibly proceed westward over the mountains, and, -instead of crossing in a line due west, will strike towards -the magnetic pole. The main changes in equipment -will be that Siberian ponies will be taken for the sledge -journeys both east and south, and also a specially -designed motor-car for the southern journey. I do not -intend to sacrifice the scientific utility of the expedition -to a mere record-breaking journey, but say frankly, all -the same, that one of my great efforts will be to reach -the southern geographical pole."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_13" style="width: 676px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_13.png" width="676" height="275" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Section, showing Interior of "Nimrod"</span><br /> - -1. Forecastle. 2. Stores. 3. Chain locker. 4. Fore hold. 5. Lower hold. 6. Stoke hold. 7. Carpenters' shop. -8. Cook's Galley. 9. Engine room. 10. Engine room. 11. Boiler. 12. After hold. 13. Lower hold. -14. After bridge. 15. Officer's quarters. 16 Captain's quarters. 17. Oyster alley. (<i>See page 19.</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span></p> - -<p>My intention was that the expedition should leave -New Zealand at the beginning of 1908, and proceed to -winter quarters on the Antarctic continent, the ship -to land men and stores and then return. By avoiding -the ship being frozen in, the use of a relief ship would -be unnecessary, as the same vessel could come south -again the following summer and take us off.</p> - -<p>Before we finally left England I had decided that if -possible I would establish my base on King Edward VII -Land instead of at the <i>Discovery</i> winter quarters in -McMurdo Sound, so that we might break entirely new -ground. The narrative will show how, as far as this -particular matter was concerned, my plans were upset -by the demands of the situation. Owing largely to -the unexpected loss of ponies before the winter, the -journey to King Edward VII Land over the Barrier was -not attempted.</p> - -<p>As the expedition was entirely my own venture I -decided that I would have no committee, and thus I -avoided delays that are inevitable when a group of men -have to arrive at a decision on points of detail. The aim -of one who undertakes to organise such an expedition -must be to provide for every contingency, and in dealing -with this Work I was fortunate enough to secure the -assistance of Mr. Alfred Reid, who had already gained -considerable experience in connection with previous -polar ventures, and who—as manager of the expedition—was -invaluable to me.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II<br /> -<span class="smaller">I—SUPPLIES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">For</span> a polar expedition the food must in the first place -be wholesome and nourishing in the highest possible -degree. Scurvy—that dread disease—was once regarded -as the inevitable result of a prolonged stay in ice-bound -regions, but by selecting food-stuffs which had been -prepared on scientific lines we entirely avoided any -sickness attributable directly or indirectly to the foods -we took with us.</p> - -<p>In the second place the food taken on the sledging -expeditions must be as light as possible, always remembering -that in very low temperatures the heat of -the body can be maintained only by use of fatty and -farinaceous foods in fairly large quantities. The sledging-foods -must also be such as do not require prolonged -cooking, for the amount of fuel that can be carried is -limited. It must even be possible to eat these foods -without any cooking, because the fuel may be lost or -exhausted.</p> - -<p>As regards foods for use at the winter quarters of the -expedition a greater variety was possible, for the ship -might be expected to reach that point and weight was -consequently of less importance. My aim was to get -a large variety of foods for the winter night, when the -long months of darkness severely strain men unaccustomed -to the conditions.</p> - -<p>I based my estimates on the requirements of twelve -men for two years, but this was added to in New Zealand -when the staff was increased.</p> - -<p>At first the question of packing presented difficulties, -but at last I decided to use "Venesta" cases both for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span> -food-stuffs and as much as possible for equipment. -These cases are manufactured from composite boards -prepared by uniting three layers of birch or other hard -wood with water-proof cement. They were eminently -suited to our purpose, and the saving of weight, as -compared with an ordinary packing-case, was about -four pounds per case. In spite of the rough handling -our stores received in the process of being landed at -Cape Royds, after the expedition had reached the -Antarctic we had no trouble with breakages.</p> - - -<p class="caption2">II—EQUIPMENT</p> - -<p>After placing orders for the principal food supplies -I went to Norway with Mr. Reid to secure sledges, fur -boots and mits, sleeping bags, ski, &c. The sledges -were to be of the Nansen pattern, built of specially -selected timber and of the best workmanship. I ordered -ten twelve-foot sledges, eighteen eleven-foot sledges and -two seven-foot sledges, the largest being suitable for -pony-haulage. The sledges were made by Messrs. Hagen -and Company of Christiania and proved to be all that -I desired.</p> - -<p>The next step was to secure furs, but this was not -a very large order as after the experience of the <i>Discovery</i> -expedition I decided to use fur only for the feet and -hands and for the sleeping-bags, relying otherwise on -woollen garments with an outer covering of windproof -material. I ordered three large sleeping-bags, to hold -three men each, and twelve one-man bags. Each bag -had the reindeer fur inside, and the seams were covered -with leather strongly sewn.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_17" style="width: 595px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_17.png" width="595" height="394" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Seal suckling Young, and taking no Notice of the Motor-car</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span></p> - -<p>The foot-gear I ordered consisted of eighty pairs of -ordinary finnesko or reindeer-fur boots, twelve pairs of -special finnesko and sixty pairs of ski boots of various -sizes. The ordinary finnesko is made from the skin of -the reindeer stag's head, with the fur outside, and its shape -is roughly that of a very large boot without any laces. -It is large enough to hold the foot, several pairs of socks, -and a supply of sennegrass, and it is a wonderfully warm -and comfortable foot-gear. This sennegrass is a dried -grass of long fibre with a special quality of absorbing -moisture and I bought fifty kilos (110.25 lb.) of it in -Norway.</p> - -<p>The sixty pairs of wolfskin and dogskin mits which I -ordered from Mr. Möller were made with the fur outside, -were long enough to protect the wrists, and had one -compartment for the four fingers and another for the -thumb. They were worn over woollen gloves and were -hung round the neck with lamp-wick when the use of -the fingers was required.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE SHIP, THE HUT AND OTHER NECESSITIES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> I left Norway I visited Sandyfjord to see whether -I could come to terms with Mr. C. Christiansen, the -owner of the <i>Bjorn</i>, a ship specially built for polar work; -but much as I wished to try her I could not afford to pay -the price.</p> - -<p>So when I returned to London I purchased the <i>Nimrod</i>. -She was small and old, and her maximum speed under -steam was hardly more than six knots, but on the other -hand she was able to face rough treatment in the ice. I -confess that I was disappointed when I first examined -the little ship, to which I was about to commit the hopes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span> -and aspirations of many years, but I had not then become -acquainted with her many good qualities, and my first -impression scarcely did justice to the plucky old ship. -She was at once put into the hands of Messrs. R. & H. -Green of Blackwall, the famous firm that had built -so many of Britain's "wooden walls," and that had -done fitting and repairing work for several other polar -expeditions, and day by day she assumed a more -satisfactory appearance. Quarters were provided for -the scientific staff of the expedition by enclosing a portion -of the after-hold and constructing cabins which were -entered by a steep ladder from the deck-house. For -some reason not on record these small quarters were -known later as "Oyster Alley."</p> - -<p>As however the <i>Nimrod</i>, after landing the shore-party -with stores and equipment, would return to New Zealand, -it was necessary that we should have a reliable hut in -which to live during the Antarctic night, and until the -sledging journeys began in the following spring.</p> - - -<p class="caption2">THE HUT</p> - -<p>I ordered a hut (which was to be our only refuge from -furious blizzards) measuring externally 33 ft. by 19 ft. by -8 ft. to the eaves from Messrs. Humphreys of Knightsbridge. -It was specially constructed to my order, and -after being erected and inspected in London was shipped -in sections.</p> - -<p>It was made of stout fir timbering of best quality in -walls, roofs and floors, and the parts were all morticed -and tenoned to make erection easy in the Antarctic. -Great precautions were taken against the extreme cold, -and the hut was to be erected on wooden piles let into the -ground or ice, and rings were fixed to the top of the roof<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span> -so that guy-ropes might be used to give additional -resistance to the gales. The hut had two doors, connected -by a small porch, so that ingress or egress would -not cause a draught of cold air, and the windows were -double so that the warmth of the hut might be retained. -We took little furniture as I proposed to use cases for -the construction of benches, beds, and other necessary -articles of internal equipment. The hut was to be -lighted with acetylene gas, and we took a generator, the -necessary piping and a supply of carbide.</p> - -<p>We also took a cooking-range, manufactured by -Messrs. Smith and Wellstrood, of London, which had -a fire chamber designed to burn anthracite coal continuously -day and night.</p> - - -<p class="caption2">CLOTHING</p> - -<p>Each member of the expedition was supplied with -two winter suits made of heavy blue pilot cloth, lined -with Jaeger fleece. An outer suit of windproof material -is necessary in the polar regions, and I secured twenty-four -suits of Burberry gabardine. The underclothing was -obtained from the Dr. Jaeger Sanitary Woollen Company.</p> - - -<p class="caption2">PONIES, DOGS, AND MOTOR-CAR</p> - -<p>I decided to take ponies, dogs, and a car to assist in -hauling our sledges on long journeys, but my hopes -were mainly based on the ponies. Dogs had not proved -satisfactory on the Barrier surface, but I was sure that -the hardy ponies used in Northern China and Manchuria -would be useful if landed in good condition on the ice. -They had done good work both on the Jackson-Harmsworth -expedition and in the Russo-Japanese War. -Fifteen of these ponies, practically unbroken and about -fourteen hands high, were selected and ultimately transferred -to Quail Island in Port Lyttelton, where they were -free to feed in luxury until they were required.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_21" style="width: 423px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_21.png" width="423" height="595" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Their Majesties King Edward and Queen Alexandra inspecting -the Equipment on the "Nimrod" at Cowes,</span> (<i>See page 26</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span></p> - -<p>As I thought it possible, from my previous experience, -that we might find a hard surface on the Great Ice -Barrier, I resolved to take a motor-car, so I selected -a 12-15 horse-power New Arrol-Johnston car, fitted -with a specially designed air-cooled four-cylinder engine -and Simms Bosch magneto ignition. A non-freezing -oil was prepared for me by Messrs. Price and Company. -I placed, as I have suggested, but small reliance on dogs; -I did however order forty of the descendants of the -Siberian dogs used on the Newnes-Borchgrevink expedition. -The breeder was only able to let me have nine, -but this team proved sufficient for my purposes.</p> - - -<p class="caption2">SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS</p> - -<p>On the scientific side the equipment of a polar expedition -is very costly, and I felt the pinch of necessary -economies in this branch. I was, however, greatly -assisted by loans of instruments and charts from the -Admiralty; the Royal Geographical Society lent me -three chronometer watches, and three wardens of the -Skinners' Company gave me one chronometer watch -which accompanied me on my journey to the Pole and -which proved to be the most accurate of all. We also -took with us a photographic equipment which included -nine cameras, and a cinematograph machine in order that -we might place on record the curious movements of seals -and penguins.</p> - -<p>For the rest I had tried to provide for every contingency, -and the gear ranged from needles and nails to a Remington -typewriter and two Singer sewing machines. There was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span> -also a gramophone and a complete printing-press; and -even hockey-sticks and a football were not forgotten.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE STAFF AND THE ROYAL VISIT</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was no easy matter for me to select the staff from the -large number (over 400) of applicants who wished to join -the expedition.</p> - -<p>After much consideration I selected eleven men for the -shore-party, only three of whom—Adams, Wild and -Joyce—had been known to me previously, while only -Wild and Joyce, having been members of the <i>Discovery</i> -expedition, had previous experience of polar work. -Every man, however, was highly recommended, and -this was also the case with the officers whom I chose for -the <i>Nimrod</i>. Before leaving New Zealand I was able -to increase the number of the expedition, which ultimately -consisted of:</p> - - -<p class="caption2">THE SHORE-PARTY</p> - -<p class="ind3em"> - <span class="smcap">Ernest H. Shackleton</span>, Commander.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Professor T. W. Edgeworth David</span>, F.R.S., Director of the - scientific staff.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Lieutenant J. B. Adams</span>, R.N.R., Meteorologist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Sir Philip Brocklehurst</span>, Bart., Assistant geologist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Bernard Day</span>, Motor expert.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Ernest Joyce</span>, in charge of dogs, sledges, &c.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Dr. A. F. Mackay</span>, Surgeon.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Douglas Mawson</span>, D.Sc., B.E., Physicist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Bertram Armytage</span>, in charge of ponies.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Dr. E. Marshall</span>, Surgeon, cartographer.<br /> - <span class="smcap">G. E. Marston</span>, Artist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">J. Murray</span>, Biologist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Raymond Priestley</span>, Geologist.<br /> - <span class="smcap">W. Roberts</span>, Cook.<br /> - <span class="smcap">F. Wild</span>, in charge of provisions.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span></p> - -<p class="caption2">THE SHIP'S STAFF</p> - -<p class="ind3em"> - <span class="smcap">Lieutenant R. G. England</span>, R.N.R., Captain.<br /> - <span class="smcap">John K. Davis</span>, Chief officer, later captain.<br /> - <span class="smcap">A. L. A. Mackintosh</span>, Second officer.<br /> - <span class="smcap">A. E. Harbord</span>, Auxiliary second officer.<br /> - <span class="smcap">H. J. L. Dunlop</span>, Chief engineer.<br /> - <span class="smcap">W. A. R. Michell</span>, Surgeon.<br /> - <span class="smcap">Alfred Cheetham</span>, Third officer and boatswain.<br /> - <span class="smcap">W. D. Ansell</span>, Steward.<br /> - <span class="smcap">J. Montague</span>, Cook.<br /> - <span class="smcap">E. Ellis</span>       }<br /> - <span class="smcap">H. Bull</span>       }<br /> - <span class="smcap">S. Riches</span>     } A.B.'s.<br /> - <span class="smcap">J. Paton</span>      }<br /> - <span class="smcap">W. Williams</span> }<br /> - <span class="smcap">G. Bilsby</span>, Carpenter.<br /> - [Lieutenant F. P. Evans, R.N.R., was appointed<br /> -   captain for the second voyage to the Antarctic.]<br /> -</p> - -<p>The work of preparation progressed rapidly, and on -July 30, 1907, the <i>Nimrod</i> sailed from the East India -Docks on the first stage of the long journey to New -Zealand. On the following day Mr. Reid received a -telegram from the King's equerry, commanding the -Nimrod to visit Cowes in order that the King and Queen -might inspect the ship on August 4, and consequently -we proceeded to the Solent, where we anchored.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_25" style="width: 596px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_25.png" width="596" height="391" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Towing Steamer "Koonya" as seen from the "Nimrod" in a heavy sea. This particular -wave came aboard the "Nimrod" and did considerable damage.</span> (<i>See page 31</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span></p> - - -<p class="caption2">ROYAL VISIT TO THE NIMROD</p> - -<p>Their Majesties King Edward and Queen Alexandra, -their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales, the Princess -Victoria, Prince Edward and the Duke of Connaught, -came on board and inspected the ship, an honour which -was greatly appreciated by the members of the expedition. -Her Majesty graciously entrusted me with a Union Jack -to be carried on the southern journey, and His Majesty -graciously conferred on me the Victorian Order.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>On Wednesday August 7, the ship sailed for New -Zealand, and arrived at Lyttelton—from whence the -final departure for the south was to be made—on -November 23. Mr. Reid reached Australian waters a -month ahead of the <i>Nimrod</i>, so that he might make -necessary arrangements and meet the Manchurian ponies.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V<br /> -<span class="smaller">WE LEAVE LYTTELTON</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>By strenuous labour we were in readiness to start from -Lyttelton on New Year's Day, and we were honoured -by the Postmaster-General of the Dominion printing off -for us a small issue of special stamps, and making me -a postmaster during my stay in the Antarctic.</p> - -<p>The quarters of the scientific staff on board the <i>Nimrod</i> -were certainly small, and as the day of departure -approached, Oyster Alley reached a state of congestion -awful to contemplate. The ponies—of which we finally -took away ten known as "Socks," "Queen," "Grisi," -"Chinaman," "Billy," "Zulu," "Doctor," "Sandy," -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span> -"Nimrod," and "Mac"—were carried on deck and ten -stout stalls were built for them. The motor-car was -enclosed in a large case and made fast with chains on the -after-hatch whence it could be transferred easily to the -ice. Our deck load, indeed, was so heavy that the -<i>Nimrod</i> was low in the water, and when we left Lyttelton -the little ship had only three feet six inches of freeboard.</p> - -<p>In order to save coal I was anxious to have the <i>Nimrod</i> -towed south, and the Government of the Dominion agreed -to pay half the cost of the tow, and Sir James Mills, -chairman of the Union Steamship Company, offered to -pay the other half. The <i>Koonya</i>, a steel-built steamer -of about 1100 tons, was chartered and placed under the -command of Captain F. P. Evans. The wisdom of this -selection was proved by subsequent events. Before my -departure I placed the conduct of the affairs of the -expedition in New Zealand into the hands of Mr. J. J. -Kinsey, whose assistance and advice had already been -of great service to me.</p> - -<p>January 1, 1908, arrived at last, a warm and clear -morning for our last day in civilisation. Before sunset -we were to sever all ties with the outer world, but we all -looked forward eagerly to our coming venture, for the -glamour of the unknown was with us and the south was -calling.</p> - -<p>All day long the deck of our little vessel was thronged -by sight-seers, who showed the greatest interest in everything -connected with the ship and her equipment. There -were many whose criticisms were frankly pessimistic as -to our chances of weathering an Antarctic gale, for the -<i>Nimrod</i> was deep in the water, but we, having confidence -in the ship, were not disturbed by these criticisms.</p> - -<p>Oyster Alley was crammed with the personal belongings -of at least fourteen of the shore-party, and if you once<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span> -got into it the difficulty of getting out was even greater. -The entrance to this twentieth-century Black Hole was -through a narrow doorway and down a ladder, which -ushered one into almost complete darkness. And it was -in this uncomfortable, crowded, murky place that the -spirit of romance grew strong in the heart of George -Buckley, until he suddenly jumped up and asked if I -would take him as far as the ice. I was only too glad to -consent, for his interest in the expedition showed that -his heart was in the right place, and his personality had -already appealed to us all. It was then 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> and the -<i>Nimrod</i> sailed at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, but in those two hours he dashed -to Christchurch, gave his power of attorney to a friend, -slung a tooth-brush and some underclothing into a bag, -and arrived on board a few minutes before sailing time, -equipped for the most rigorous weather in the world with -only the summer suit he was wearing. Surely a record in -the way of joining a polar expedition!</p> - -<p>Cheer after cheer broke from the watching thousands -as we moved towards the harbour entrance, and after -a most cordial send-off we stopped to pick up our tow-line -from the <i>Koonya</i>; and this operation being completed -we signalled the <i>Koonya</i> to go ahead and were soon -in the open sea.</p> - -<p>Fortunately we did not know that we were not to take -our clothes off for the next two weeks, and that we were to -live in a constant state of wetness and watchfulness until -we arrived in the neighbourhood of winter quarters. -But bad weather was not long delayed, and I was soon -wishing for the splendid modern gear of the <i>Discovery</i>, -the large, specially built vessel that we had on the -previous expedition.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_29" style="width: 591px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_29.png" width="591" height="402" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">View of the Great Ice Barrier</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span></p> - -<p>As the wind and sea increased the <i>Nimrod</i> pitched about, -shifting everything that could be moved on deck. The -seas began to break over her, and we were soon wet -through, not to be properly dry again for many days. -Our chief anxiety was the care of the ponies, and looking -back now to those days, it remains wonderful to me how -they survived the hardships that fell to their lot.</p> - -<p>The <i>Nimrod</i> had—owing to her deeply loaded condition—begun -the voyage like a reluctant child being dragged -to school, but as the gale increased in vehemence she -seemed to throw off the sluggishness which possessed -her, when she had found herself outward bound at the -end of a tow-line for the first time in her strenuous life -of forty years. Now that the tow-line was but little use—save -to steady us in the furious gale—the <i>Nimrod</i> -began to play her own hand, and marvellously well did -she play it. So furiously did the gale blow that on the -morning of the 5th I told Captain England to signal and -ask the <i>Koonya</i> to pour oil on the water, but although -this helped us to a certain extent it did not prevent the -heaviest seas from breaking on board. The <i>Nimrod</i> -rolled over fifty degrees from the perpendicular to each -side; how much more than that I cannot say for the -indicator was only marked up to fifty degrees, and the -pointer had passed that mark. Under these circumstances -it was but natural that the sturdy ponies had their -strength taxed to the utmost to keep their footing. It -was impossible to sling them, for they were only half-broken, -and an attempt to put a sling under one nearly -drove it crazy with fright. On the night of the 5th -during an extra heavy roll one of the ponies slipped, and -when the ship rolled the opposite way it turned right over -on its back and could not regain its footing. All our -attempts to get "Doctor," as he was called, upon his -legs failed, and regretfully I had to order him to be shot.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The continuous bad weather was attributed by some on -board to the fact that we had captured an albatross on -the second day out. It is generally supposed by seamen -to be unlucky to kill this bird, but as we did it for the -purposes of scientific collections and not with the wantonness -of the "Ancient Mariner," the superstitious must -seek another reason for the bad weather.</p> - -<p>The storm increased until, by midnight on the 6th, -the squalls were of hurricane force, and the morning of -the 7th brought no relief. Seas came on board with more -frequency than ever, finding out any odd article that had -escaped our vigilance. At one time a sack of potatoes -was washed on to the deck and the contents were floating -in two or three feet of water, but standing on the poop -I heard one of the crew, in no way disheartened, singing, -as he gathered them up, "Here we go gathering nuts in -May."</p> - -<p>On the evening of January 8, the gale was so terrific that -we had to signal to the <i>Koonya</i> to heave to. We did -this with the sea on our starboard quarter, and one -enormous wave smashed in part of the starboard bulwarks -and did much—though happily no vital—damage. -The galley was washed out and the fire extinguished, but -so pluckily did the members of the cooking department -work that never during this most uncomfortable time -were we without a warm meal. This was really a great -feat considering that the galley was only five feet square, -and thirty-nine persons blessed with very hearty appetites -had to be provided for.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span></p> - -<p>To show what a state we were in I may mention that -in the wardroom I salved a small wooden case from the -water, and found that it contained a patent mixture for -extinguishing fires!</p> - -<p>At noon on January 11 we were in latitude 57° 38′ -South, and longitude 178° 39′ West, but the weather, -which had moderated for a day or two, again became as -bad as ever. We had imagined that we might find -difficulty in cleaning out the stables, but the herculean -waves settled that difficulty in a most arbitrary and -thorough manner.</p> - -<p>On the 13th we had a warmer and pleasanter day than -any we had experienced since leaving Lyttelton, and the -whole vessel began to look like a veritable Petticoat Lane. -Pyjamas and pillows of pulp that had once been pillows -of feathers, books and boots, coats and carpet-slippers -were lying in a mass on the poop deck so that they might -dry. A few of us ventured on baths, but in the open -air and with the temperature only two degrees above -freezing-point it was chilly work.</p> - -<p>We were now keeping a sharp look-out for icebergs -and pack, and the meeting with the pack-ice was to -terminate the <i>Koonya's</i> tow; and that meant parting -with Buckley, who had endeared himself to every one on -board, and who had been of the greatest assistance in -the matter of the ponies.</p> - -<p>Next morning, January 14, we sighted our first iceberg. -It had all the usual characteristics of the Antarctic bergs, -being practically tabular in form, and its sides being of -a dead white colour. During the afternoon we passed -two more icebergs with their usual tails of brash ice floating -out to leeward. The sea had changed colour from a -leaden blue to a greenish-grey, albatrosses were not -nearly so numerous, and the temperature of the air and -water had dropped to 32° Fahr. Everything pointed -to our nearness to the pack, and on the next morning -we saw the ice looming up through the mist to the -southward.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_33" style="width: 578px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_33.png" width="578" height="385" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Pushing through heavy Floes in the Ross Sea. The dark line on the Horizon is a -"Water Sky," and indicated the Existence of Open Sea</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span></p> - -<p>Now had come the time for the <i>Koonya</i> to drop us, after -a tow of 1510 miles—a record in towage for a vessel not -built for the purpose—and before the <i>Koonya</i> finally -cast off from us, she had achieved another record by -being the first steel vessel to cross the Antarctic Circle.</p> - -<p>About 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> I decided to send Captain England across -to the <i>Koonya</i> with Buckley and the mail, our letters -being stamped with the special stamp given by the New -Zealand Government. As the sea was rising again we -lost no time in making the necessary communication -by boat between the two ships, and during a favourable -roll the whale-boat was dropped into the water, and -Buckley—with his week-end handbag—jumped into her. -About a quarter to one Captain Evans signalled that -he was going to cut his hawser, for in the rising sea the -two vessels were in dangerous proximity to each other.</p> - -<p>We saw the axe rise and fall, rise and fall again, and the -tie was severed. The <i>Koonya's</i> work was done, and at -last the <i>Nimrod</i> was dependent upon her own resources. -Our consort steamed round us, all hands on both ships -cheering; then her bows were set north and she vanished -into a grey, snowy mist, homeward bound. All that -afternoon we unremittingly toiled to get in the cable -link by link, and by seven o'clock we were able to proceed -and to put the ship's head due south.</p> - -<p>By 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on January 16, the bergs were much more -numerous, but none of the ice we passed through at this -time had the slightest resemblance to pack-ice. An hour -later we entered an area of tabular bergs, varying from -80 to 150 ft. in height, and all the morning we steamed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span> -in beautiful weather through the lanes and streets of a -wonderful snowy Venice. The magic of such a scene -cannot be described. As far as the eye could see, great, -white, wall-sided bergs stretched east, west and south, -contrasting strikingly with the lanes of blue-black water -between them.</p> - -<p>A stillness, weird and uncanny, had fallen upon everything. -Here there was no sign of life, except when one -of the little snow petrels, invisible when flying across the -glistening bergs, flashed for a moment into sight. Beautiful -as this scene was it gave me some anxiety, for I knew -that if we were caught in a breeze amidst this maze of -floating ice it would go hard with us. Already an ominous -dark cloud was sweeping down from the north, and I -was unfeignedly thankful when, in the afternoon, I saw -open water ahead. After a few more turnings and -twistings we entered the ice-free Ross Sea, this being -the first time a passage had been made into that sea -without the vessel being held up by pack-ice; and I -think our success was due to the fact that we were to the -eastward of the pack, which had separated from the -land and the Barrier, and had drifted to the north-west. -Indeed all my experience goes to prove that the easterly -route is the best.</p> - -<p>Whence these bergs had come is open to conjecture, -but I am certain that this ice had not long left the parent -barrier or coast-line, for there was no sign of weathering -on the sides. Our latitude at noon on the 16th was -68° 6′ South, and the longitude 179° 21′ West.</p> - -<p>Before we entered the actual line of bergs a couple of -seals, probably a crabeater and a Weddell seal, appeared -on the floe-ice, and a few Adelie penguins were also seen. -The quaint walk and insatiable curiosity of these birds -greatly amused us, and Marston, our artist, whose sense<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span> -of the ludicrous is very fully developed, was in ecstasies -at their genuine surprise and profound concern when -they saw the ship.</p> - -<p>It was fortunate that we cleared the ice during that -afternoon, for shortly afterwards the wind increased, -and the weather thickened with falling snow.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE ATTEMPT TO REACH KING -EDWARD VII LAND</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were now in the Ross Sea, and evidently had avoided -the main pack. Our position at noon (Jan. 17) was -70° 43′ South latitude, and 178° 58′ East longitude, and -we were steering a little more westerly so as to strike -the Barrier well to the east of Barrier Inlet, and also to -avoid the heavy pack that previous expeditions had -encountered to the east of meridian 160° West. The -snow had now become hard and dry, like sago—the true -Antarctic type, and numbers of Antarctic petrels circled -round and round the ship.</p> - -<p>We were now revelling in the indescribable freshness -of the Antarctic that seems to permeate one's being, and -which must be responsible for that longing to go again -which assails each returned explorer from polar regions. -On the morning of the 23rd we saw some very large -icebergs, which were evidently great masses broken off -the Barrier, and we were keeping a sharp look-out for -the Barrier itself. The thermometer registered some -twelve degrees of frost, but the wind was so dry that we -scarcely felt the cold.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_37" style="width: 379px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_37.png" width="379" height="582" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Flight of Antarctic Petrels</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span></p> - -<p>At 9.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 23rd a low straight line appeared -ahead of the ship. It was the Barrier. After half an -hour it disappeared, but by eleven o'clock the straight -line stretching east and west was in full view and we -rapidly approached it. I had hoped to make the Barrier -about the position of what we call the Western Bight, -and at noon we could see a point which was obviously -the eastern limit of the Western Bight. Soon afterwards -we were within a quarter of a mile of the ice-face, and -exclamations of wonder at the stupendous bulk of the -Barrier were drawn from those who had not seen it -before.</p> - -<p>Looking at the Barrier from some little distance, one -would imagine it to be a perfectly even wall of ice; when -steaming along parallel with it, however, the impression -it gave was that of a series of points, each of which -looked as though it might be the horn of a bay. Then -when the ship came abeam of it, one would see that the -wall only receded for a few hundred yards, and afterwards -new points came into view as the ship moved on. The -weather continued fine and calm, and there was absolutely -no sign of the strong westerly current along the -Barrier which we had always encountered during the -voyage of the <i>Discovery</i>.</p> - -<p>About midnight we suddenly came to the end of a very -high portion of the Barrier, and entered a wide shallow -bay which must have been the inlet where Borchgrevink -landed in 1900, but it had changed greatly since that -time. About half a mile down this bay we reached fast -ice. It was about half-past twelve at night, and the -southerly sun shone in our faces.</p> - -<p>To the east rose a long snow slope which cut the -horizon at the height of about 300 ft. It had every -appearance of ice-covered land but we could not stop -to make certain, for the heavy ice lying to the northward<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span> -of us was setting down into the bay, and if we were not -to be beset it was necessary to get away at once. -All round us were numbers of great whales showing -their dorsal fins as they occasionally sounded, so we -named this playground for these monsters "The Bay of -Whales."</p> - -<p>As it was impossible to work to the eastward, we -struck northwards through an open lead and came south -to the Barrier again about 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 24th. Then -we coasted eastward along the wall of ice, always looking -out for the inlet. The lashings had been taken off the -motor-car, and the tackle rigged to hoist it out directly -we got alongside the ice-foot, to which the <i>Discovery</i> had -been moored. For in Barrier Inlet we proposed to place -our winter quarters.</p> - -<p>I had decided on this inlet because I knew that it was -practically the beginning of King Edward VII Land, and -that the actual bare land was within an easy sledge -journey of that place, and it also had the great advantage -of being some ninety miles nearer to the South Pole than -any other spot that could be reached with the ship. A -further important reason was that it would be an easy -matter for the ship on its return to reach this part of -the Barrier, whereas King Edward VII Land itself -might quite possibly be unattainable if the season was -adverse.</p> - -<p>However the best-laid schemes often prove impracticable -in polar exploration, and within a few hours our -first plan was found impossible to fulfil, for the very -sufficient reason that the inlet had disappeared. Great -disappointment as this was to us, we were thankful that -the Barrier had broken away before we had made our camp -upon it. The thought of what might have happened -made me decide then and there that, under no circumstances,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span> -would I winter on the Barrier, and that wherever -we landed we would secure a solid rock foundation for our -winter home.</p> - -<p>We had two strings to our bow and I resolved to use -the second and push forward towards King Edward VII -Land. The ship was headed eastward, again keeping a -few hundred yards off the Barrier, for here the cliff was -overhung and a fall of ice would assuredly have been -disastrous to us. Soon, however, I saw that we could -not make much easting in this way, for by 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on -the 24th we were close to the pack and found that it was -pressed hard against the Barrier edge; and, what was -worse, the whole of the northern pack and bergs at this -spot were drifting in towards the Barrier.</p> - -<p>The seriousness of this situation can be realised by the -reader if he imagines that he is in a small boat right under -the vertical white cliffs of Dover; that detached cliffs -are moving in from seaward slowly but surely with -resistless power and force, and that it will only be a -question of perhaps an hour or two before the two -masses come into contact, and crush his tiny craft as -they meet.</p> - -<p>There was nothing for it but to retrace our steps, and -by steaming hard and working in and out of the looser -floes, we just managed to pass the point with barely fifty -yards of open water to spare between the Barrier and the -pack.</p> - -<p>I breathed more freely when we passed this zone of -Immediate danger, for there were two or three hundred -yards of clear water now between us and the pack, and -after skirting along the seaward edge we came to the -high cliff of ice at the westerly end, and passed safely out -of the bay.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_41" style="width: 590px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_41.png" width="590" height="393" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">"Nimrod" moored off Tabular Bergs.</span> (<i>See page 14</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span></p> - -<p>We then continued to the westward until in the evening -the ship's head was put north and we gained a fairly open -sea. It is, however, remarkable how limited is one's -horizon at sea, for although there appeared to be open -water for an indefinite distance we were soon up against -rigid ice again. The fact is that low pack-ice is not visible -at any great distance, and that one cannot trust an -appearance of open water. All night long we tried to -penetrate to the east, practically doubling in our tracks -before we were able to pursue the direction we wished -to follow.</p> - -<p>By noon on January 25 I found that any hopes I had -of a clear run were vain, and the prospect of reaching -King Edward VII Land grew remoter every ensuing hour. -Indeed it seemed impossible to reach the land, and the -shortness of coal, the leaky condition of the ship, and the -necessity of landing all our stores and putting up the hut -before the vessel left us, made the situation an extremely -anxious one. I had not expected to find Barrier Inlet -gone, and, at the same time, the way to King Edward VII -Land absolutely blocked by ice, though the latter condition -was not unusual.</p> - -<p>I decided to continue to try and make a way to the -east for at least another twenty-four hours, but when we -saw the western pack moving rapidly towards us under -the influence of the wind, and that it was most probable -that we should be inextricably caught for days or even -weeks in this great mass, I reluctantly gave orders to turn -the ship and make full speed out of this dangerous -situation.</p> - -<p>Under the circumstances I could see nothing for it -except to steer for McMurdo Sound and there make our -winter quarters, though I would greatly have preferred -to land at King Edward VII Land, because that region -was quite unknown and we could have added greatly to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span> -the geographical knowledge of it. However the forces -of these uncontrollable ice-packs are stronger than -human resolution, and a change of plan was forced -upon us.</p> - -<p>After more trouble with the ice we worked into clearer -water and the course was set for McMurdo Sound, where -we arrived on January 29 to find that some twenty -miles of frozen ice separated us from Hut Point. I -decided to lie off the ice-foot for some days in the hope -that Nature might break up the ice intervening between -us and our goal.</p> - -<p>So far the voyage had been without accident to any -of the staff, but unfortunately on the 31st Mackintosh -was struck in the right eye by a hook, and the eye had -to be removed by Marshall, assisted by the other two -doctors, Michell and Mackay. Keenly as Mackintosh -felt the loss of his eye, his great sorrow was that he would -not be able to remain with us in the Antarctic. He -begged to stay, but when Marshall explained that he -might lose the sight of his other eye he accepted his ill-fortune -without demur.</p> - -<p>While waiting at the ice I sent a small party—consisting -of Adams, Joyce and Wild—to Hut Point to -report on the condition of the hut left there by the -<i>Discovery</i> expedition in 1904, and on their return Adams -reported that the hut was practically clear of snow and -the structure intact.</p> - -<p>On February 3 I decided to wait no longer, but to seek -for winter quarters on the east coast of Ross Island; so -we started toward Cape Barne on the look-out for a -suitable landing-place. Steaming slowly north along the -coast we saw across the bay a long, low snow slope connected -with the bare rock of Cape Royds, which seemed -a suitable place for winter-quarters.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span></p> - -<p>About eight o'clock I left the ship in a boat, accompanied -by Adams and Wild, and we used the hand-lead at -frequent intervals until we came to fast ice. This -covered the whole of the small bay from the corner of -Flagstaff Point (as we afterwards named the seaward -cliff at the southern end of Cape Royds) to Cape Barne -to the southward. Close up to the Point the ice had -broken out, leaving a little natural dock into which we -ran the boat, and hundreds of Adelie penguins greeted -Adams and me with hoarse squawks of excitement as we -landed. I was soon satisfied that Cape Royds would be -an excellent place at which to land our stores, and after -taking soundings we pulled out towards the ship which -had slowly been coming in. We were pulling along at a -good rate when suddenly a heavy body shot out of the -water, struck the seaman who was pulling stroke, and -dropped with a thud to the bottom of the boat. The -arrival was an Adelie penguin, which had doubtless -thought it was jumping on to a rock, and it would be -difficult to say whether the bird or we were the more -astonished.</p> - -<p>By 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on February 3, the <i>Nimrod</i> was moored to -the bay ice, and as soon as she was secured I went ashore -accompanied by Professor David, England, and Dunlop, -to choose a place for building the hut, and up a small -valley we soon found an ideal spot for our winter -quarters.</p> - -<p>The floor of this valley was almost level and covered -with a couple of feet of volcanic earth, and there was room -not only for the hut itself, but also for the stores and for -a stable for the ponies. A hill behind this valley served -as an excellent protection from the prevailing strong -south-easterly wind, and a number of seals lying on the -bay ice gave promise of a plentiful supply of fresh meat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_45" style="width: 570px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_45.png" width="570" height="423" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Adelie Penguins at Cape Royds. (<i>See page 44</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span></p> - -<p>With this ideal situation and everything else satisfactory, -including a supply of water from a lake right in -front of our valley, I decided that we had better start -to get our gear ashore at once.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE LANDING OF STORES AND EQUIPMENT</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>We now started upon a fortnight full of more checks -and worries than I or any other member of the expedition -had ever experienced. Nevertheless, in face of most -trying conditions, the whole party turned to late and -early with whole-hearted devotion and cheerful readiness.</p> - -<p>The ponies gave us cause for the most anxiety, because -in their half-broken and nervous condition it would have -been practically impossible to land them in boats. Finally -we decided to build a rough horse-box, get them into this, -and then sling it over the side by means of the main gaff. -By 3.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the morning of the 6th we had got all the -ponies ashore, and they immediately began to paw the -snow as they were wont to do in their own far-away -Manchurian home.</p> - -<p>The poor ponies were naturally stiff after their constant -buffetings, but they negotiated the tide-crack all right, -and were soon picketed on some bare earth at the entrance -to a valley, which lay about fifty yards from the site of -our hut. We thought this a good place, but in the -future the selection was to cost us dear.</p> - -<p>The tide-crack played an important part in connection -with the landing of the stores. In the polar regions, -both north and south, when the sea is frozen, there -always appears between the fast ice, which is the ice<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span> -attached to the land, and the sea ice, a crack which -is due to the sea ice moving up and down with the rise -and fall of the tide. When the bottom of the sea slopes -gradually from the land, sometimes two or three tide-cracks -appear running parallel to each other. When no -more tide-cracks can be seen landwards, the ice-foot has -always been thought to be permanently joined to the -land, and in our case this opinion was strengthened -by the fact that our soundings in the tide-crack shoved -that the ice-foot on the landward side of it must be -aground.</p> - -<p>I have explained this fully, for it was only after considering -these points that I, for convenience's sake, -landed the bulk of the stores below the bare rocks on -what I thought was the permanent snow-slope.</p> - -<p>On the morning of February 6 we started work with -sledges, hauling provisions and pieces of the hut to the -shore. On the previous night the foundation posts of -the hut had been sunk and frozen into the ground with -a cement composed of volcanic earth and water, and -the digging of the foundations had proved extremely -hard work.</p> - -<p>Now that the ponies were ashore it was necessary to -have a party living on shore to look after them, and the -first shore-party consisted of Adams, Marston, Brocklehurst, -Mackay and Murray. Two tents were set up -close to the hut, with the usual sledging requisites such -as sleeping-bags, cookers, &c. The first things landed -this day were fodder for the ponies, and sufficient -petroleum and provisions for the shore-party in case -the ship had to put suddenly to sea owing to bad weather.</p> - -<p>The work of hauling the sledge-loads right up to the -land was so heavy, that I decided to let the stores -remain on the snow slope beyond the tide-crack, whence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span> -they could be taken at leisure. Our attempt to substitute -mechanical haulage for man haulage was not successful, -and we soon had to go back to our original plan.</p> - -<p>Delays at once occurred, for during the afternoon of -the 6th a fresh breeze sprung up, and the ship had to -stand out to the fast ice in the strait and anchor there. -Thus two valuable working days were lost.</p> - -<p>When, however, I went ashore again I found that the -little shore-party had not only managed to get all the -heavy timber that had been landed up to the site of the -hut, but also had stacked the cases of provisions, which -previously had been lying on the snow slope, upon -bare land. While we were engaged on the increasingly -difficult task of landing stores, &c., the hut-party were -working day and night and the building was rapidly -assuming an appearance of solidity. The uprights were -in and the brace ties were fastened together, so that if -it began to blow there was small fear of the structure -being destroyed. This was something to be thankful -for, but while the hut-party were getting on so well, -we who were engaged on landing the stores had—owing -to the breaking away of the ice—to move our spot.</p> - -<p>The stores had now to be dragged a distance of nearly -three hundred yards from the ship to the landing-place, -but this work was made easier by our being able to use -four of the ponies. A large amount of stores was landed -in this way, but a new and serious situation arose through -the breaking away of the main ice-foot. Prudence -suggested that it would be wiser to shift the stores -already landed to a safer place before discharging any -more from the ship, and on this work we were engaged -during the evening of the 10th.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_49" style="width: 581px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_49.png" width="581" height="387" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The "Nimrod" lying off the Penguin Rookery, Cape Royds</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span></p> - -<p>Next we had to find a safer place on which to land -the rest of the coal and stores, and Back Door Bay, as -we named the chosen spot, became our new depot. This -was a still longer journey from the ship, but there was -no help for it, and after laying a tarpaulin on the rocks -to keep the coal from mixing with the earth, we started -landing the coal.</p> - -<p>By this time there were several ugly looking cracks -in the bay ice, and these kept opening and closing, having -a play of seven or eight inches between the floes. We -improvised bridges, from the motor-car case, so that -the ponies could cross the cracks, and presently were -well under way with the work.</p> - -<p>Then there was a most alarming occurrence, for -suddenly and without the slightest warning the greater -part of the bay ice opened out into floes, and the whole -mass that had opened started to drift slowly out to -sea. The ponies on the ice were at once in a perilous -position, but the sailors rushed to loosen the one tied to -the stern rope and got it over the first crack, and -Armytage also got the pony which he was looking after -from the floe nearest the ship on to the next floe.</p> - -<p>Just, however, at that moment, Mackay appeared -round the corner from Back Door Bay with a third pony -attached to an empty sledge, on his way back to the ship -to load up. Orders were shouted to him not to come -any further, but not at first grasping the situation he -continued to advance over the ice, which was already -breaking away more rapidly.</p> - -<p>When he realised what had occurred he left his sledge -and pony, and rushed towards the place where the other -two ponies were adrift on the ice, and, by jumping the -widening cracks, he reached the moving floe on which -they were standing. This piece of ice gradually grew -closer to a larger piece, from which the animals would -be able to gain a place of safety. But when Mackay<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span> -started to try to get the pony Chinaman across the crack -where it was only six inches wide, the pony took fright, -and rearing and backing towards the edge of the floe, -which had at that moment opened to a width of a few -feet, he fell bodily into the ice-cold water.</p> - -<p>It looked indeed as if it was all over with poor Chinaman, -but Mackay hung on to the head rope, and Davis, -Michell and Mawson rushed to his assistance. After -great difficulty a rope sling was passed underneath -Chinaman, and he was lifted up far enough to enable -him to scramble on to the ice.</p> - -<p>A few seconds later the floe closed up against the other -one, and it was providential that it had not done so -while the pony was in the water, for in that case Chinaman -would inevitably have been squeezed to death. As -it was he lived to help us very materially on another—and -more critical—day. The ship was now employed to push -the floe back against the fast ice, and directly this was -accomplished the ponies were rushed across and taken -straight ashore, and the men who were on the different -floes took advantage of the temporary closing of the -crack to get themselves and the stores into safety.</p> - -<p>As soon as the ship was backed out the loose floes -began to drift away to the west, and after this narrow -escape I resolved not to risk the ponies on the sea ice again. -The breaking of the ice continued to give us great cause -for anxiety, and we had a narrow escape from losing -our cases of scientific instruments and a large quantity -of fodder. Had we lost these cases a great part of our -scientific work could not have been carried out, and -the loss of the fodder would have meant also the loss of -the ponies.</p> - -<p>We were handicapped too by such a heavy swell -running on the 13th that no stores could be landed.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span> -This swell would have been welcome a fortnight before, -for it would have broken up a large amount of fast ice -to the south, and I could not help thinking that at this -date there was open water up to Hut Point. Now, -however, it was most unfortunate for us, as precious time -was passing, and still more precious coal was being used -by the continual working of the ship's engines.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE <i>NIMROD</i> LEAVES US</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">As</span> the swell continued during the following day, I -signalled England to go to Glacier Tongue and land a -depot there. Glacier Tongue lies about eight miles -north of Hut Point and about thirteen to the southward -of Cape Royds, and by landing a quantity of sledging -stores there we should be saved several miles of -haulage.</p> - -<p>Although we were busy in building the hut, and in -one way and another had plenty of employment, I was -disappointed at not being able to continue landing the -stores until the 16th. And here I should like to mention -the cheerful assistance which we always received from -the officers and crew of the <i>Nimrod</i>. They had nothing -but hard work and discomfort from the beginning of -the voyage, and yet they worked splendidly and were -invariably in good spirits.</p> - -<p>Naturally Captain England was anxious to get the -ship away, and also much concerned about the shrinkage -of the coal-supply, but it was impossible to let her leave -until the wintering party had received their coal from -her. The weather was quite fine, and if it had not been -for the swell we could have got through a great deal of -work.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_53" style="width: 448px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_53.png" width="448" height="634" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Ponies transporting Coal on Sledges at Back Door Bay.</span> (See page 50)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span></p> - -<p>According to our experiences on the last expedition, -the latest date to which it would be safe to keep the -Nimrod would be the end of February, for the young -ice forming about that time on the sound would seriously -hamper her from getting clear of the Ross Sea.</p> - -<p>On the 17th and 18th we contrived to land a considerable -quantity of coal, equipment and stores, but soon after -five o'clock on the afternoon of the 18th a furious blizzard -was blowing, and the <i>Nimrod</i> stood off from the shore -but could make little headway against the terrific wind -and short-rising sea.</p> - -<p>I was aboard the vessel at the time, and the speed of -the gusts must have approached a force of a hundred -miles an hour. The tops of the seas were cut off by the -wind, and flung over the decks, mast, and rigging of -the ship, congealing at once into hard ice, and the sides -of the vessel were thick with the frozen sea water.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">"The masts were grey with the frozen spray,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">And the bows were a coat of mail."</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Very soon the cases and sledges lying on deck were -hard and fast in a sheet of solid ice, and Harbord, who -was the officer on watch, on whistling to call the crew -aft, found that the metal whistle stuck to his lips, a -painful proof of the low temperature.</p> - -<p>The gale raged on for days and nights, and about -midnight on the 21st the <i>Nimrod</i> shipped a heavy sea, -and all the release-water ports and scupper holes being -blocked with ice, the water had no means of exit, and -began to freeze on deck, where, already, there was a -layer of ice over a foot in thickness. Any more weight -like this would have made the ship unmanageable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span></p> - -<p>As the ropes, already covered with ice, would have -frozen into a solid mass, we were forced to take the drastic -step of breaking holes in the bulwarks to allow the -water to escape; and only by dint of great exertions -did Davis and Harbord perform this feat.</p> - -<p>It was a sight to see Harbord, held by his legs, hanging -over the starboard side of the <i>Nimrod</i>, and wielding a -heavy axe; while Davis, whose length of limb enabled -him to lean over without being held, did the same on the -other. The temperature at the time was several degrees -below zero, and the wind was as strong as that which -we had experienced in the gales after we had left New -Zealand; though the waves were not so huge as those -which had the whole run of the Southern Ocean in which -to gather strength to buffet us.</p> - -<p>At 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> the weather suddenly cleared, and we were -able to discover that in spite of our efforts to keep our -position, the wind and current had driven us over thirty -miles to the north. As, however, the sea was rapidly -decreasing we were at last able to steam straight for -Cape Royds.</p> - -<p>Arriving ashore early in the morning I rejoiced to see -that the hut was still intact, but the report I received -as regards the warmth of it was not reassuring, because, -in spite of the stove being alight the whole time, -no heat was given off. This eccentric conduct of -the stove was a grave matter, for on its efficiency depended -not only our comfort but our very existence. -The shore-party had experienced a terrific gale, and -the hut had trembled and shaken so much and so constantly -that I doubt if with a less admirable situation we -should have had a hut at all after the gale.</p> - -<p>On going down to our main landing-place the full -effect of the blizzard was apparent, for hardly a sign of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span> -the greater part of our stores was to be seen. Such had -been the force of the wind blowing straight on to the -shore that spray had been flung in sheets over everything, -and had been carried by the wind for nearly a quarter of -a mile inland. Consequently, in places, our precious -stores lay buried to a depth of five or six feet in a mass -of frozen sea water.</p> - -<p>We feared that it would take weeks of work to get the -stores clear of the ice, and also that the salt-water would -have damaged the fodder. However there was no time -then to do anything to release the stores from the ice, for -the most important thing was to get the remainder of -coal ashore and send the ship north.</p> - -<p>Before 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on February 22 the final boatload of -coal arrived, and as we had in all only about eighteen -tons, the strictest economy would be needed to make -this amount spin out until the sledging parties began -in the following spring.</p> - -<p>We gave our final letters and messages to the crew of -the last boat, and said good-bye. And at 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the -Nimrod's bows were pointed to the north, and she was -moving rapidly away from the winter quarters with a -fair wind.</p> - -<p>We were all devoutly thankful that the landing of the -stores had at length been finished and that the state of -the sea would no longer be a factor in our work, but it -was with something of a pang that we severed our connection -with the world of men. We could hope for no -word of news from civilisation until the <i>Nimrod</i> came -south again in the following summer, and before that -we had a good deal of difficult work to do and some risks -to face.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_57" style="width: 611px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_57.png" width="611" height="430" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Digging out Stores after the Cases had been buried in Ice during a Blizzard.</span> (<i>See page 58</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span></p> - -<p>There was, however, scant time for reflection, even if -we had been moved that way, and after a good night's -rest we started digging the stores out of the ice, and -transporting everything to the vicinity of the hut.</p> - -<p>As soon as the stores were in position we hoped to -make a start with the scientific observations that were to -be an important part of the work of the expedition.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X<br /> -<span class="smaller">WINTER QUARTERS AT CAPE ROYDS OUTSIDE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> next few days were spent in using pick, shovel and -iron crowbars on the envelope of ice that covered our -cases, corners of which only peeped from the mass.</p> - -<p>The whole looked like a huge piece of the sweet known -as almond rock, and it was as difficult to get our cases -clear of the ice as it is to separate almonds from that -sticky conglomerate without injury. In this strenuous -labour, however, there was some humour, for Brocklehurst, -who took great interest in the recovery of the -chocolate, spent his energies in rescuing one particular -case which had been covered with ice.</p> - -<p>Having rescued it he carried it up to the hut to be -sure of its safety, and was greeted with joy by the Professor, -who recognised in the load some of his scientific -instruments which were playing the part of the cuckoo -in an old chocolate box. Needless to say Brocklehurst's -joy was not as heartfelt as the Professor's.</p> - -<p>We were now using the ponies, and within ten days -after the departure of the ship we had practically everything -handy to the hut, excepting the coal. Permanently -we had not lost very much, but we do know that our -one case of beer lies to this day under the ice, and some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span> -volumes of the Challenger reports, which had been -intended to provide us with useful reading matter during -the winter nights, were only dug out a few days -before our final departure.</p> - -<p>Most of us at one time or another had wounds and -bruises to be attended to by Marshall, and the annoying -feature of these simple wounds was the length of time -it took in our special circumstances for them to heal.</p> - -<p>The day after the ship left we laid in a supply of fresh -meat for the winter, killing about a hundred penguins -and burying them in a snow-drift close to the hut. By -February 28 we were practically in a position to feel -contented with ourselves, and to explore the neighbourhood -of our winter quarters (See sketch, page 61).</p> - -<p>From the door of our hut which faced north-west, -we had a splendid view of the Sound and the western -mountains. Right in front of us lay a small lake which -came to be known as Pony Lake, and to the left of that -was another sheet of ice that became snow-covered in -autumn, and here in the dark months we exercised both -the ponies and ourselves.</p> - -<p>Six times up and down the "Green Park," as we -called it, made a mile, and it was here before darkness -fell upon us that we played hockey and football.</p> - -<p>To the left of Green Park was a gentle slope leading -down between two cliffs to the sea, and ending in a little -bay known as Dead Horse Bay, and on either side of this -valley lay the penguin rookery.</p> - -<p>On coming out of the hut we had only to go round the -corner of the building to catch a glimpse of Mount Erebus, -which lay directly behind us. Its summit was about -fifteen miles from our quarters, but its slopes and foothills -began within three-quarters of a mile of the hut.</p> - -<p>Our view was cut off from the east to south-west by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span> -the ridge at the head of the valley where the hut stood, -but on ascending this ridge we looked over the bay to -the south-east, where lay Cape Barne. To the right -was Flagstaff Point.</p> - -<p>There were many localities which became favourite -places for walks, and these are shown on the plan (page 61). -Sandy Beach was generally the goal of any one taking -exercise, when uncertain weather warned us against -venturing further, and while the dwindling light allowed -us to go so far. Here we sometimes exercised the ponies, -and they much enjoyed rolling in the soft sand.</p> - -<p>As regards the interest and scenery of our winter -quarters we were infinitely better off than the expedition -which wintered in McMurdo Sound between 1901 and -1904, and as a field of work for geologists and biologists -Cape Royds far surpassed Hut Point. The Professor -and Priestley saw open before them a new chapter of -geological history, for Murray the lakes were a fruitful -field for new research. Adams, the meteorologist, could -not complain, for Mount Erebus was in full view of the -meteorological station, and this fortunate proximity to -Erebus and its smoke-cloud led, in a large measure, to -important results in this branch. Mawson made the -study of ice part of his work, and from every point of -view I must say we were extremely fortunate in the -winter quarters to which the state of the ice had led us.</p> - -<p>Before we had been ten days ashore the hut was -practically completed, though it was over a month before -it attained the very fully furnished appearance which it -assumed after every one had arranged his belongings. -It was not a spacious dwelling for fifteen persons, but if -the hut had been larger we should not have been so warm.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_61" style="width: 509px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_61.png" width="509" height="587" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Winter Quarters.</span> (<i>See page 59</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span></p> - -<p>At first the coldest part of the house was undoubtedly -the floor, which was formed of inch tongue-and-groove: -boarding, but was not double-lined. There was a space of -about four feet under the hut at one end, and as the -other rested almost on the ground it was obvious to us -that as long as this space remained we should suffer from -the cold. So we decided to make an airlock of the area -under the hut, and to this end we built a wall with the -bulk of provision cases round the south-east and southerly -sides, which were to windward.</p> - -<p>On either side of the porch two other buildings were -gradually erected. One, built out of biscuit cases, the -roof covered with felt and canvas, was a store-room for -Wild, who looked after the issue of all food-stuffs. The -building on the other side was far more elaborate, and -was built by Mawson to serve as a chemical and physical -laboratory. It was destined, however, to serve solely -as a store-room, for the temperature inside was so nearly -the same as that outside, that the moist atmosphere -rushing from the hut covered everything inside this -store-room with fantastic ice crystals.</p> - -<p>The lee side of the hut ultimately became the wall of -the stables, for we decided to keep the ponies sheltered -for the winter. However the first night they were -stabled none of us had much rest, and some of them -broke loose and returned to their valley. Shortly afterwards -Grisi, one of the most high-spirited of the lot, -pushed his head through a window, so the lower halves -of the hut windows had to be boarded up.</p> - -<p>In a store-room built on the south-east of the hut we -kept the tool-chest, the shoe-maker's outfit which was -in constant requisition, and any general stores that had -to be issued at stated times. But the first blizzard -found out this place, and after the roof had been blown -off the wall fell down. When the weather was fine again -we organised a party to search for such things as mufflers,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span> -woollen helmets and so on, and I found a Russian felt -boot, weighing five pounds, lying three-quarters of a -mile from the crate in which it had been stowed. For -the whole of this distance it must have had a clear run -in the air, for there was not a scratch on the leather.</p> - -<p>The dog kennels were placed close to the porch of the -hut, and the meteorological station was on the weather -side on the top of a small ridge. Adams was responsible -for this, and as readings of the instruments were to be -taken day and night at intervals of two hours, and as -in thick weather the man trying to go between hut and -screen might possibly lose his way, a line was rigged up -on posts which were cemented into the ground by ice.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI<br /> -<span class="smaller">WINTER QUARTERS INSIDE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">As</span> regards the inside of the hut the first thing done was -to peg out a space for each individual, and we saw that -the best plan would be to have the space allotted in -sections, allowing two men to share one cubicle. This -space for two men amounted to six feet six inches in -length and seven feet in depth from the wall of the hut -towards the centre.</p> - -<p>There were seven of these cubicles, and a space for -the leader of the expedition; thus providing for the -fifteen who made up the shore party.</p> - -<p>One of the most important parts of the interior construction -was the dark-room for the photographers, and -as we were very short of wood we used cases of bottled -fruit to build the walls. The dark-room was built in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span> -the left-hand corner of the hut as one entered, and the -cases were turned with their lids facing out, so that the -contents could be removed without the walls being -demolished. The interior of the room was fitted up by -Mawson and the Professor, and as Mawson made the -fittings complete in every detail, the result was as good -as any one under the conditions could desire.</p> - -<p>Opposite the dark-room was my room, six feet long, -seven feet deep, built of boards and roofed, the roof -being seven feet above the floor. The bed-place was -made of fruit-boxes, which, when emptied, served, like -those outside, for lockers. My room contained the bulk -of our library, the chronometers, chronometer watches, -&c., and there was ample room for a table. The whole -made a most comfortable cabin.</p> - -<p>We set up the acetylene gas-plant on a platform between -my room and the dark-room, for our efforts to work it -from the porch had failed owing to the lowness of the -temperature. The simplicity and portability of this -apparatus and the high efficiency of the light represented -the height of luxury under polar conditions. The only -objectionable feature was the unpleasant smell when the -carbide tanks were being recharged, but although we -were soon used to this, the daily charging always drew -down strong remarks on the unlucky head of Day, who -was responsible for the acetylene plant.</p> - -<p>As during the winter months the inside of the hut was -the whole inhabited world to us, some of the distinctive -features of our furnishing may be worthy of mention. -The wall of Adams' and Marshall's cubicle, which was -next to mine, was fitted with shelves made from Venesta -cases, and this apartment was so neat and orderly that -it was known by the address "No. 1 Park Lane." The -beds of this particular cubicle consisted of bamboos -lashed together for extra strength, to which strips of -canvas were attached, so that each bed looked like a -stretcher. These beds took a little longer than the -others to rig up at night, but this disadvantage was -more than compensated for by the free space gained -during the day. The wall end rested on stout cleats -screwed on to the side of the hut, the other end on chairs, -and so supported, the occupant slept very comfortably.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_65" style="width: 626px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_65.png" width="626" height="428" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The First Slopes of Erebus.</span> (<i>See page 82</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span></p> - -<p>The dividing curtain between this cubicle and the -next—occupied by Marston and Day—had been adorned -with life-sized coloured drawings of Napoleon and Joan -of Arc, and as the colour of Joan and also portions of -Napoleon oozed through, the curtain on Marston's side -did not require to be decorated! This cubicle was known -as "The Gables," and in it was set up the lithographic -press. The beds were solid wood, and as Marston was -the artist and Day the handy man of the expedition one -naturally found an ambitious scheme of decoration.</p> - -<p>The next cubicle on the same side belonged to Armytage -and Brocklehurst, where everything in the way of shelves -and fittings was very primitive, and next to this cubicle -came the pantry.</p> - -<p>Beyond the stove, facing the pantry, was Mackay and -Roberts' cubicle, the main feature of which was a ponderous -shelf, on which socks and other light articles -chiefly rested, the only thing of weight being our gramophone -and records.</p> - -<p>Between this cubicle and the next there was no division, -neither party troubling to put one up. The result was -that the four men were constantly at war regarding -encroachments on their ground. Priestley, who was long-suffering, -and who occupied the cubicle with Murray, -said he did not mind a chair or a volume of the "Encyclopædia -Britannica" being occasionally deposited upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span> -him while asleep, but that he drew the line at wet and -dirty boots. This cubicle was garnished on Priestley's -side with bits of rock, ice-axes &c. and on Murray's -with biological requisites.</p> - -<p>The next cubicle was occupied by Wild and Joyce, -and was known as the "Rogues' Retreat," a painting of -two very tough characters, with the inscription The -Rogues' Retreat painted underneath, adorning the -entrance to the den. The couches in this house were -the first to be built, and the first bed was made in -Wild's store-room for secrecy's sake. It was to burst -suddenly upon every one and to create feelings of -admiration and envy. Unfortunately, however, in -building it he had forgotten the size of the doorway -through which it had to be taken, and it had ignominiously -to be sawn in half before it could be passed out -of the store-room into the hut.</p> - -<p>The last compartment was the dwelling-place of the -Professor and Mawson, and it would be difficult to do -justice to the picturesque confusion of this cubicle. A -miscellaneous assortment of cameras, spectroscopes, -microscopes and the like lay in profusion on the blankets. -Everything in the way of tin cans was collected by these -two scientific men, and the Professor made a pile of -glittering tins and coloured wrappers at one end of his -bunk, and the heap looked like the nest of the Australian -bower bird.</p> - -<p>The name given, though not by the owners, to this -cubicle was "The Pawn Shop."</p> - -<p>In order to give as much free space as possible in the -centre of the hut, the table was so arranged that it could -be hoisted over our heads after meals were over. At -first we put the boxes containing knives, plates &c. on -top of the table before hauling it up, but after these had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span> -fallen on the head of the unlucky man trying to get -them down, we were content to keep them on the floor.</p> - -<p>After hearing that the stove had failed to work during -the blizzard which had kept me on board the <i>Nimrod</i>, I -was very anxious about it. My anxiety, however, was -dispelled after the stove had been taken to pieces, and -it was found that eight important pieces of its structure -had not been put in. As soon as this more than trifling -omission was rectified the stove worked magnificently, -and as it was kept going day and night for over nine -months without once being put out for more than ten -minutes, it was severely tested.</p> - -<p>Looking back to those distant days, it seems strange to -me now that we should have taken so much trouble to -furnish and beautify what after all was to be but a -temporary home. Nevertheless it represented all the -world to its inhabitants, and so we tried to make it as -bright and cheerful a spot as possible.</p> - -<p>Divine service was held in the hut on Sundays during -the winter months.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII<br /> -<span class="smaller">SLEDGING EQUIPMENT</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> sledge which we used is the outcome of the -experience of many former explorers, but to Nansen is -the chief credit that it has become such a very useful -vehicle.</p> - -<p>Our experience on the <i>Discovery</i> expedition had convinced -me that the eleven-foot sledge is the best for all-round -use, but I took with me some twelve-foot sledges -as being possibly more suitable for pony traction. A -good sledge for Antarctic or Arctic travelling must be -rigid in its upright and cross-bars, and yet give to uneven -surfaces. A well-constructed sledge needs to be supple -without interfering with the strength of the structure, -and in our case there was nothing wanting in this respect.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_69" style="width: 587px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_69.png" width="587" height="416" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Marston in his Bed.</span> (<i>See page 66</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span></p> - -<p>The wooden runners were about four inches wide and -made of hickory, and in pulling the sledge the direction -of the grain on the snow surface has to be observed, for -it is wonderful what a difference it makes whether one -is pulling with or against the grain of the runner.</p> - -<p>The second point to consider is the height of the framework -of the sledge above the surface of the snow, and as -it has been found that a clearance of six inches is ample -in ordinary circumstances, the uprights of our sledges -were only about six inches high.</p> - -<p>An eleven-foot sledge, fully loaded, is at its best -working weight with about 650 lb. on it, but this does -not represent its actual strength capacity, for while we -were unloading the ship we often placed over a thousand -pounds' weight on a sledge without damaging it in the -least.</p> - -<p>Another vitally important article of equipment for the -polar explorer is the cooker and cooking-stove, and here -again we were indebted to the practical genius of Nansen -who designed the form of cooker that is now invariably -used in polar work. The stove was the ordinary "primus," -burning kerosene, vapourised in the usual way.</p> - -<p>Such was the efficiency of the cooker and stove that, -in a temperature of forty or fifty degrees below zero, the -snow or ice, which would be at this temperature, could -be melted and a hot meal prepared within half an hour -from the time the cooker was placed on the primus. -The whole apparatus, including the primus, did not weigh -more than fifteen pounds.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">- 71 -</span></p> - -<p>The next important item was the tent, and as the -usual unit for sledging consists of three men, our tents -were designed to contain that number. The tent cloth -was thin Willesden duck, with a "snow-cloth" of thicker -material round the lower edge, and instead of a single -tent-pole we used five bamboo rods fastened together at -one end in a cap, over which the apex of the tent fitted. -Inside the tent was placed on the snow a circle of thick -Willesden water-proof canvas to protect the sleeping-bags -from actual contact with the ground.</p> - -<p>It has been generally assumed by polar explorers that -sledge travellers must wrap themselves up in furs, but -my experience during two expeditions convinces me that -except for the hands and feet in the way of personal -clothing, and the sleeping-bags for camping, furs are -unnecessary. The term "bag" literally describes this -portion of the sledging gear, for it is a long bag with -closely sewn seams, and is entered by means of a slit at -the upper end.</p> - -<p>The appetite of a man who has just come to camp after -a five-hours' march in a low temperature is something -that the ordinary individual at home might possibly envy -but would scarcely understand, and, indeed, the sledger -himself is sometimes surprised when his ration is finished, -and he feels just about as hungry as before his meal.</p> - -<p>In choosing supplies I tried to provide those of heat-giving -and flesh-forming materials, and to avoid foods -containing a large amount of moisture. Our cuisine was -not varied, but a voracious appetite has no nice discernment, -indeed all one wants is more, and this is just what -cannot be allowed if a party is to proceed a great distance -while confined to man-haulage. It is hard for a hungry -man to rest content with the knowledge that the food he -is eating is sufficient for his needs, when he does not feel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">- 72 -</span> -satisfied after his meal and the aching void has not even -temporarily disappeared.</p> - -<p>Pemmican, which consists of the finest beef powdered -with 60 per cent, of fat added was one of the main items -of our food supply, and biscuits are also a standard food -in polar work.</p> - -<p>I secured thicker biscuits than were used in the previous -expedition, and the Plasmon Company supplied a ton of -the best wholemeal biscuit, and with an allowance of one -pound for each man per day we were as regards farinaceous -food considerably better off than those on the <i>Discovery</i> -expedition had been.</p> - -<p>This allowance, I may mention, was reduced very -considerably when food began to run short on the -southern and northern journeys, but we had no fault to -find with the quality of the biscuits and the addition of -Plasmon certainly increased their food-value.</p> - -<p>Tea and cocoa were chosen as our beverages for use on -the march, tea for breakfast and lunch; and cocoa, which -tends to produce sleepiness, for dinner at night. Sugar -is a very valuable heat-forming substance, and our -allowance of this amounted to about a third of a pound -per day for each man.</p> - -<p>We also took chocolate, cheese, and oatmeal, so that -although there was not much variety we felt that we -were getting the most nutritious food possible.</p> - -<p>I have already mentioned the clothing which I bought -for the expedition, but as regards the most effective -head-gear there were marked differences of opinion. The -general method, however, of keeping head and ears warm -was to wrap a woollen muffler twice round the chin and -head, thus protecting the ears which are the first parts -of the body to show signs of frost-bite. The muffler was -then brought round the neck, and over the muffler was -pulled a fleecy travelling-cap, a woollen helmet something -like an old-time helmet without the visor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">- 73 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_73" style="width: 510px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_73.png" width="510" height="746" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plan of the Hut at Winter Quarters</span> (<i>See page 64</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">- 74 -</span></p> - -<p>If a blizzard were blowing the muffler was discarded, -the helmet put on, and over this the Burberry helmet, -which has a stiff flap in front that can be buttoned into -a funnel-shape. In very low temperatures, or even in -moderately low temperature and a breeze, we had -occasionally to inspect each others' faces for the sign of -frost-bite; and if the white patch denoting this was -visible, it had to be attended to immediately.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">OUR PONIES AND DOGS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> experiences of the National Antarctic Expedition -and of the <i>Discovery</i> Expedition convinced me, that if we -could use ponies instead of dogs for traction purposes we -should be making a very successful change.</p> - -<p>It was a risk to take ponies from the far north through -the tropics, and then across two thousand miles of stormy -sea on a very small ship, but we eventually established -ourselves at the winter quarters with eight ponies. -Unfortunately, however, we lost four of them within a -month of our arrival.</p> - -<p>In the case of three out of the four the loss was due to -the facts that they were picketed at first on sandy ground, -and that we did not notice that they were eating the -sand. I had neglected to supply them with salt, and as -they found a saline flavour in the sand they ate it at odd -moments.</p> - -<p>Until Sandy died and a post-mortem examination -revealed the cause of his death, we were at a loss to know<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">- 75 -</span> -why several of the ponies were ill. Naturally we shifted -them at once to a spot where they could get no more -sand, but in spite of the remedies we gave to them two -more of the ponies died.</p> - -<p>The loss of the fourth pony was due to poisoning, for -Manchurian ponies will eat anything that can possibly -be chewed, and this particular—or unparticular—one -seems to have eaten shavings in which chemicals had -been packed. These losses were a matter of the deepest -concern to us.</p> - -<p>We were left with four ponies, Quan, Socks, Grisi and -Chinaman, and they were so precious in our eyes that -they were guarded with most keen attention. During -the winter months we had many opportunities to learn -the different characters of each animal, and as every one -of them seemed to possess an extraordinary amount of -sense and cunning, we were not infrequently suffering -from petty annoyances.</p> - -<p>Quan was the worst offender, his delight being to bite -through his head-rope and attack the bales of fodder -stacked behind him; then, when we put a chain on him, -he deliberately rattled it against the side of the hut, -which operation kept us awake. Grisi was our best-looking -pony, but he was so unfriendly to the others in -the stables that we had to build him a separate stall.</p> - -<p>Socks was shaped like a miniature Clydesdale, and was -always willing to work and very fiery.</p> - -<p>The last of our remaining ponies was Chinaman, a -strong animal, sulky in appearance, but in reality one -of the best of workers. He also liked to bite his head-rope, -but when we put a chain on him he did not emulate -Grisi by rattling it against the hut.</p> - -<p>We had been able to obtain only nine dogs, but many -puppies—most of which came to an untimely end—increased<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">- 76 -</span> -this number. The presence of the dogs around -our winter quarters was very cheerful and gave a homelike -feeling to the place, and our interest in the pups was -always fresh, for as they grew up each one developed -peculiarities of its own.</p> - -<p>All the pups were white and were most useful to us in -guarding the ponies, for if a pony got adrift the little -army of pups, which slept in the stables, at once surrounded -him, and by their furious barking warned the night watchman -that something was wrong.</p> - -<p>I remember that on one occasion Grisi got free and -dashed out of the stables followed by the whole party of -pups, and after Mackay had secured the truant the dogs -followed with an air of pride as though conscious of -having done their duty.</p> - -<p>Since we were reduced to four ponies it was necessary -to consider the dogs as a possible factor in our work, and -so their training was important. But after enjoying -some months of freedom it seemed terrible to the young -dogs when first a collar was put on them, and even less -did they enjoy their experience of being taken to the -sledge and there taught to pull.</p> - -<p>Peary's account of his expeditions shows that in -Arctic regions dogs have been able to traverse long -distances very quickly. Once indeed over ninety miles -were accomplished in twenty-three hours, but this -evidently was done on smooth sea-ice or on the smooth -glaciated surface of the land. Such a feat would be -impossible on the Antarctic Barrier surface.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">- 77 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_77" style="width: 627px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_77.png" width="627" height="418" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">A Group of the Shore Party at the Winter Quarters</span><br /> - -<i>Standing</i> (from left): Joyce, Day, Wild, Adams, Brocklehurst, Shackleton, Marshall, David, Armytage, Marston -<i>Sitting:</i> Priestly, Murray, Roberts</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">- 78 -</span></p> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV<br /> -<span class="smaller">MOUNT EREBUS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Until</span> March 3 the arrangement of all the details relating -to settling in our winter quarters engaged our -attention, but afterwards we at once began to seek some -outlet for our energies which would advance the cause -of science and the work of the expedition.</p> - -<p>I was anxious to make a depot to the south for the -furtherance of our southern journey in the summer, but -the open water between us and Hut Point forbade all -progress in that direction; neither was it possible for us -to journey towards the western mountains, where the -geology might have been studied with the chance of -most interesting results.</p> - -<p>One journey, however, was possible, certainly a difficult -one, yet gaining interest and excitement from that very -reason, and this was an attempt to reach the summit of -Mount Erebus.</p> - -<p>Both geologically and meteorologically the accomplishment -of this work was desirable, but apart from scientific -considerations the ascent of a mountain over 13,000 feet in -height would be exciting both to those chosen as climbers, -and to the rest of us who wished for their success.</p> - -<p>After deliberation I decided that Professor David, -Mawson and Mackay should form the party that was to -try to reach the summit, and they were to be provisioned -for ten days. A supporting-party, consisting of Adams, -Marshall and Brocklehurst, was to assist the main-party -as far as possible, and the whole expedition was to be -under Adams' charge until he decided that his party was -to return, when the Professor was to be in charge of the -advance-party.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">- 79 -</span></p> - -<p>In my written instructions to Adams, he was given -the option of going to the summit if he thought it feasible -for his party to push on, and he actually did so, though -the supporting-party was only provisioned for six days, -and was not so well equipped for mountain-work as the -advance-party. I also gave instructions that the supporting-party -was not to hamper the main-party, especially -as regarded division of provisions, but instead of being -drawbacks the three men were of great assistance to the -advance division, and lived entirely on their own stores, -and equipment.</p> - -<p>No sooner was the decision arrived at to make the -ascent than the winter quarters became busy with the -bustle of preparation, and such was the energy thrown -into this work, that by 8.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 5 the men -were ready to start upon the expedition.</p> - -<p>In ascending such a mountain as Erebus it was obvious, -that a limit would soon be reached beyond which it would -be impossible to use a sledge. To meet these circumstances -straps were arranged by which single sleeping-bags -could be slung in the form of a knapsack upon the -climber's back, and inside the bags the remainder of the -equipment could be packed. Both the advance and the -supporting-party followed this arrangement.</p> - -<p>When they started I confess that I saw but little -prospect of the whole party reaching the top, yet when, -from the hut, on the third day out, we saw through -Armytage's telescope six tiny black spots crawling up -the immense deep snowfield, and when on the next day -I saw the same small figures on the sky-line, I realised -that the supporting-party was going the whole way.</p> - -<p>But before I give an account of this expedition as -reported to me most graphically by Professor David and -Adams, I must say something about the mountain on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">- 80 -</span> -which these six men were winning their spurs not only -on their first Antarctic campaign, but also in their first -attempt at serious mountaineering.</p> - -<p>The name of Mount Erebus looms large in the history -of polar exploration both north and south. On January -28, 1841, Sir James Clark Ross named the great volcano—at -whose base our winter quarters lay—after the leading -ship of his expedition.</p> - -<p>The final fate of that ship is linked with the fate of -Sir John Franklin and one of the most tragic stories of -Arctic exploration, but though both the <i>Erebus</i> and -<i>Terror</i> have sunk far from the scenes of their first exploration, -that brilliant period of Antarctic discovery will -always be remembered by the mountains which took -their names from those stout ships. Standing as a sentinel -at the gate of the Great Ice Barrier, Erebus forms a -magnificent picture. At the top of the mountain an -immense depression marks the site of the old crater, and -from the side of this rises the active cone, generally -marked by steam or smoke. To ascend such a mountain -would be difficult in any part of the world, but the -difficulties were accentuated by the latitude of Erebus. -The men, however, were determined to do their utmost -to reach the crater itself, and how they fared and what -they found must be told from the reports they gave -to me.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV<br /> -<span class="smaller">ATTACKING MOUNT EREBUS</span></h2> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">All</span> hands accompanied the expedition when it started -at a quarter to nine on the morning of March 5, and -helped to pull the sledge along the slopes of Back Door -Bay across Blue Lake, up the eastern slope to the first -level; and there we said farewell to the mountain -party.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">- 81 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_81" style="width: 621px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_81.png" width="621" height="440" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Ice Flowers on newly-formed Sea Ice early in the Winter</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">- 82 -</span></p> - -<p>They first steered straight up a snow slope, and about -a mile out and 400 feet above sea-level a glacial moraine -barred their path, and they had to portage the sledge -over it by slipping ice-axes under the load between the -runners and bearers of the sledge (total weight of sledge -and load was 560 lb.), and lifting it over the obstruction. -On the further side of the moraine was a sloping surface -of ice and névé, on which the sledge capsized for the -first time. Light snow was falling and there was a slight -wind.</p> - -<p>More difficulties were quickly encountered, and no -sooner had the party managed, by struggling upon -their hands and knees, to drag the sledge up the steep -slope of a small glacier, than their progress was impeded -by sastrugi.</p> - -<p>"Sastrugi" means wind furrow, and is the name -given to those annoying obstacles to sledging, due to -the action of the wind on the snow. These sastrugi -vary in depth from two or three inches to three or four -feet, according to the position of any rock masses near -them and to the force of the wind forming them.</p> - -<p>Though they have many disadvantages, they are -occasionally very welcome; for sometimes it is impossible -to see the way to steer unless one takes the line of -sastrugi and notes the angle it makes with the compass -course, the compass for the moment being placed on -the snow to obtain the direction.</p> - -<p>The sledgers, at this particular juncture, had much -trouble in keeping their feet; and their remarks upon -the subject of sastrugi were distinctly audible and -uncomplimentary.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">- 83 -</span></p> - -<p>On the first evening the party camped at 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, -about 2750 ft. above sea-level and a distance of seven -miles from winter quarters; and on the following morning -they found that the temperature was 10° below zero -Fahr.</p> - -<p>The gradient was becoming much steeper, being -1 in 5, and sastrugi, running obliquely to their course, -caused the sledge frequently to capsize. The heavy work, -however, resulted in keeping the travellers warm; and -on the night of March 6 they had reached an altitude -of 5630 ft., and a temperature of 28° below zero.</p> - -<p>On the following morning Adams decided that the -supporting-party should attempt to reach the summit, -though they were handicapped by having a three-man -sleeping-bag—which article of bulk one man had to -carry—and in various other ways.</p> - -<p>The party made a depot of the sledge and of some -of the provisions and cooking utensils at the second -camp, and then, starting with tent-poles among their -equipment, they resumed their climb. Soon, however, -they realised the impossibility of climbing the mountain -with these articles, which had to be taken back to the -depot.</p> - -<p>Each man carried a weight of 40 lb., and on the third -evening the party camped about 8750 ft. above sea-level. -Between 9 and 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> of the 7th a strong wind -sprang up, and when the men woke the following morning -a fierce blizzard was blowing from the south-east.</p> - -<p>In the whirling snow and roaring wind, the two -sections of the party, although only some ten yards -apart, could neither see nor hear each other, and the -blizzard increased in fury as the day wore on.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, however, Brocklehurst emerged -from the three-man sleeping-bag, and instantly a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">- 84 -</span> -fierce gust whirled away one of his wolfskin mits, and -he, dashing after it, was swept down the ravine by the -force of the wind.</p> - -<p>Adams, who had left the bag with Brocklehurst, saw -the latter vanish, and in trying to return to the bag to -fetch Marshall, he also was blown down by the wind. -Meanwhile Marshall, the only occupant of the bag, had -great difficulty in keeping himself from being blown, -sleeping-bag and all, down the ravine.</p> - -<p>At last Adams, on his hands and knees, succeeded in -reaching the bag, and at the same time Brocklehurst, -also creeping along as best he could, appeared. It was a -close call, for so biting was the cold that he was all but -completely gone.</p> - -<p>During the day and night of the 8th the travellers -had nothing to drink, as it would have been impossible -to have kept the lamp alight to thaw out the snow. -Happily, by 4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> the blizzard was over, and soon -afterwards the climbers were again on their way. The -angle of ascent was now steeper than ever, being thirty-four -degrees—that is, a rise of 1 in 1½ and the travellers -kept as much as possible to the bare rocks. During this -day Brocklehurst, who was wearing ski boots, began to -feel the cold attacking his feet, but did not think seriously -enough of it to change into finnesko.</p> - -<p>At noon a fair camping-ground was found some 800 ft. -below the rim of the old crater, and after a hasty meal -the ascent was again tackled. Within a little distance -from the top of the rim of the main crater, Mackay chose -to work his way alone with his ice-axe up a long and -very steep névé slope, instead of following the safer -route by the rocks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">- 85 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_85" style="width: 442px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_85.png" width="442" height="609" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">One thousand feet below the Active Cone</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">- 86 -</span></p> - -<p>He passed from sight, and then was heard to call out -that he was getting weak, and did not think he could -last much longer. Hastening to the ridge, Marshall and -the Professor dropped to the point where he was likely -to be found, and fortunately met him, thoroughly -exhausted, coming towards them.</p> - -<p>It appeared that Mackay had, with his heavy load, -found the work of cutting steps more difficult than he -had expected, and that he had only just managed to -reach safety when he fell and fainted. No doubt this -was partly due to mountain sickness, which under the -severe conditions and at the high altitude also affected -Brocklehurst.</p> - -<p>Having found a camping-place, the members of the -party were at leisure to observe the nature of their -surroundings; and they found themselves on the very -brink of a precipice of black rock, forming the inner -edge of the old crater. This wall of dark lava was mostly -vertical, and the base of the cliff was separated from the -snow plain beyond by a deep ditch like a huge dry -moat, evidently due to the action of the blizzards.</p> - -<p>But what surprised the explorers most were the extraordinary -structures which rose here and there above the -surface of the snowfield. They were in the form of -mounds and pinnacles of most varied and fantastic -appearance, some resembling beehives, others huge -ventilating cowls, while others were like isolated turrets, -and yet others looked like various animals in shape.</p> - -<p>At first sight no one was able to understand the origin -of these remarkable structures, but as it was time for -food, they left the closer investigation until later in the -day.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">- 87 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE CONQUEST OF MOUNT EREBUS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">While</span> some of the party cooked the meal, Marshall -examined Brocklehurst's feet, as the latter stated that -for some time he had lost all feeling in them. When his -boots and socks were removed it was found that both -his big toes were black, and that four more toes were -also frost-bitten. Ultimate recovery from so severe a -frost-bite was bound to be slow and tedious, though -Marshall's and Mackay's efforts to restore circulation -were, under the conditions, fairly successful. To climb -almost continuously for nine hours with badly frost-bitten -feet up the steep and difficult track must have -required splendid pluck and determination.</p> - -<p>After lunch Brocklehurst was safely tucked up in the -three-man sleeping-bag, and the five other members of -the party started off to explore the floor of the old crater, -and the mystery of those remarkable structures was soon -solved by the Professor.</p> - -<p>Directing their steps towards one of the ice mounds, -which bore a whimsical resemblance to a lion couchant, -and from which smoke seemed to be issuing, the Professor -recognised that these structures were the outward and -visible signs of fumaroles.</p> - -<p>In ordinary climates a fumarole, or volcanic vapour-well, -may be detected by the thin cloud of steam above -it, but in the rigour of the Antarctic climate the fumaroles -of Erebus have their vapour turned into ice as soon as it -reaches the surface of the snow-plain.</p> - -<p>Thus ice mounds, somewhat similar in shape to the -sinter mounds formed by the geysers of New Zealand,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">- 88 -</span> -Iceland and Yellowstone Park, are built up round the -orifices of the fumaroles of Erebus.</p> - -<p>Next morning when the party got up at 4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> they had -a splendid view of the shadow of Erebus projected on -the field of cumulus cloud below them by the rising sun, -and while Marshall was attending to Brocklehurst, the -hypsometer, which had become frozen on the way up, -was thawed out, and a determination of the boiling-point -made.</p> - -<p>This, when reduced and combined with the mean of -the aneroid levels, made the height of the old crater -rim, just above the camp, 11,400 ft.</p> - -<p>At 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> the party left the camp, and, hastening to -reach the summit of the present crater, were soon -ascending rather steep slopes, formed of alternating -beds of hard snow and vast quantities of large and perfect -felspar crystals, mixed with pumice. And a little farther -on they reached the base of the volcano's active cone. -Progress now became painfully slow, as the height and -cold combined to make it difficult to breathe.</p> - -<p>The cone of Erebus is built chiefly of blocks of pumice, -from a few inches to a few feet in diameter. Externally -these were grey, or often yellow, owing to incrustations -of sulphur, but when broken they were of a resinous, -brown colour.</p> - -<p>At last, just after 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 10, the edge of the -active crater was reached, and the little party stood on -the summit of Erebus, the first men to conquer perhaps -the most remarkable summit in the world. From measurements -made while at the crater's edge, Erebus may be -calculated to rise to a height of 13,370 ft. above sea-level.</p> - -<p>The report most vividly describes the magnificent and -awe-inspiring scene before the eyes of the travellers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">- 89 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_89" style="width: 626px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_89.png" width="626" height="412" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The "Lion" of Erebus.</span> (<i>See page 86</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">- 90 -</span></p> - -<p>"We stood on the verge of a vast abyss, and at first -could see neither to the bottom nor across it on account -of the huge mass of steam filling the crater and soaring -aloft in a column 500 to 1000 ft. high. After a continuous -hissing sound, lasting for some minutes, there would -come from below a big, dull boom, and immediately -great globular masses of steam would rush upwards to -swell the volume of the snow-white cloud which ever -sways over the crater. This phenomenon recurred at -intervals during the whole of our stay at the crater. -Meanwhile the air around us was extremely redolent of -burning sulphur. Presently a pleasant northerly breeze -fanned away the steam cloud, and at once the whole -crater stood revealed to us in all its vast extent and -depth. Mawson's angular measurement made the depth -900 ft., and the greatest width about half a mile. There -were at least three well-defined openings at the bottom -of the cauldron, and it was from these that the steam -explosions proceeded."</p> - -<p>As soon as the measurements had been made and -Mawson had taken some photographs, the party returned -to camp, because it had been decided to start the descent -during the same afternoon.</p> - -<p>Numerous specimens of the unique felspar crystals -and of the pumice and sulphur were collected on the way -back to camp, and, having arrived there, the travellers -made a hasty meal, packed up, and started down the -steep mountain slope, Brocklehurst insisting on bearing -his own heavy load in spite of his frost-bitten feet.</p> - -<p>Soon a point was reached where the party had either -to retrace their way or to cut steps across a névé slope, -or, lastly, to glissade down some 500 or 600 feet to a -rocky ledge below. In their tired state, they chose the -path of least resistance, which was offered by the glissade,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">- 91 -</span> -and consequently the loads were rearranged so that they -might roll down easily. Brocklehurst's load, which contained -the cooking utensils, protested noisily as it went -down, and the aluminium cookers received a severe -battering from their abrupt contact with the rocks -below.</p> - -<p>At this time the whole party were suffering from thirst, -but a makeshift drink was obtained by gathering a little -snow, squeezing it into a ball, and placing it on the -surface of a piece of rock, where it melted almost at -once on account of the heat of the sun.</p> - -<p>Adams and Marshall were the first to reach the depot, -having dropped down 5000 ft. between 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> and 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, -and they found that the blizzard of the 8th had played -havoc with their gear, for the sledge had been overturned -and some of the load scattered to a distance and -partly covered with drift snow. The party camped -during that night at the depot, and by 5.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the -following morning the sledge was packed and the homeward -journey resumed.</p> - -<p>The sastrugi, however, were so troublesome that rope -brakes were put on the sledge-runners, and two men -went in front to pull when necessary, while two steadied -the sledge, and two stayed behind to pull back when -required.</p> - -<p>At this time, indeed, the conditions were most trying, -for the sledge either refused to budge or suddenly it -took charge, and overran those who were dragging it.</p> - -<p>Capsizes occurred every few minutes, and, owing to -the slippery ground, some of the party who had not -crampons or barred ski-boots were badly shaken up. -One has to experience such a surface to realise how severe -a jar one gets from falling. The only civilised experience -akin to it is when one steps unknowingly on a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">- 92 -</span> -slide which some small street-boy has made on the -pavement.</p> - -<p>The party reached the spot where they had made -their first camp, six miles distant from Cape Royds, at -7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> By this time a blizzard seemed to be approaching, -and the snow, which was beginning to drift before -a gusty south-easterly wind, threatened to cut off all -view of the winter quarters. Every one was tired, one -of the tents had a large hole burnt in it, the oil supply -was almost done, and one of the stoves had been put -out of action as the result of the glissade. So in the -circumstances the party decided to make a dash for -Cape Royds, leaving sledge and equipment to be picked -up later.</p> - -<p>In the grey light the sastrugi did not show up in -relief, and every few feet some member of the party -fell sprawling over the snow. At last their eyes were -gladdened by the shining surface of the Blue Lake only -half a mile distant from winter quarters. But now that -the stress and the strain were over, their legs grew heavy -and leaden, and that last half-mile seemed to be one of -the hardest they had covered.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile, at winter quarters we had been busy -opening cases, with the result that the cubicles of the -absentees were crowded with an accumulation, of stores. -We had just decided to make the cubicles tidy again for -the travellers, and were beginning on the Professor's, -when I left the hut for a moment, and to my astonishment -saw six slowly moving figures within thirty yards -of me.</p> - -<p>Running towards them, I shouted, "Did you get to -the top?" and as there was no answer I asked again. -Then Adams pointed with his hand upwards; but, not -satisfied by this, I repeated the question, and Adams -replied "Yes." After that I dashed to the hut and -shouted to the others, who streamed out to cheer the -successful venturers. A good feed followed, in which -porridge had the place of honour.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">- 93 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_93" style="width: 411px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_93.png" width="411" height="617" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Crater of Erebus, 900 feet deep and half a mile wide. -Steam is seen rising on the left. The photograph was taken -from the lower part of the Crater edge.</span> (<i>See page 88</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">- 94 -</span></p> - -<p>After some days' delay on account of bad weather, a -party consisting of Adams, the Professor, Armytage, -Joyce, Wild and Marshall started to fetch in the sledge -with the explorers' equipment, and this work was successfully -accomplished.</p> - -<p>Among some of the scientific results of this expedition, -as given to me by Professor David, must be mentioned -the calculating of the height of the mountains, and -that "as regards the geological structure of Erebus, -there is evidence of the existence of four superimposed -craters."</p> - -<p>"Two features," the Professor wrote, "in the geology -of Erebus which are specially distinctive are: the vast -quantities of large and perfect felspar crystals and the -ice fumaroles.... Its situation between the belt of -polar calms and the South Pole; its isolation from the -disturbing influence of large land masses; its great -height, which enables it to penetrate the whole system -of atmospheric circulation, and the constant steam cloud -at its summit, swinging to and fro like a huge wind vane, -combine to make Erebus one of the most interesting -places on earth to the meteorologist."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">- 95 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII<br /> -<span class="smaller">PREPARATIONS FOR THE WINTER MONTHS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">After</span> the journey to the summit of Erebus we began -to prepare for the long winter months that were rapidly -approaching.</p> - -<p>It was most important, for instance, that the geologists -should get as far afield as possible before the winter -night closed upon us; so both the Professor and Priestley -were out early and late collecting geological specimens -which would need to be examined later on.</p> - -<p>There was also a fine field for Murray's biological -studies; while the lengthening nights gave indications -that the mysterious Aurora Australis would soon be -waving its curtains and beams over our winter -quarters; and as information on this phenomenon -was greatly needed, Mawson prepared to record the -displays.</p> - -<p>Adams was the meteorologist of the expedition, and -he took all the observations from 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> to 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>; while -the night-watchman was responsible for those taken -from 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> to 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span></p> - -<p>In addition to the meteorological screen, Mawson -built an erection on the top of the highest ridge, in which -he placed an aneurometer of his own construction to -register the strength of the heaviest gusts of wind during -a blizzard. Frequently the squalls were found to blow -with a force of a hundred miles an hour.</p> - -<p>There remained one more outdoor instrument connected -with weather observation, and that was the snow-gauge. -By using some spare lengths of stove chimney, the -Professor erected a gauge into which the snow falling -in a blizzard was collected, and when it was melted down<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">- 96 -</span> -we could calculate fairly accurately the amount of -snowfall.</p> - -<p>This observation was very important, as it is on the -precipitation in the form of snow, and on the rate of -evaporation, that calculations regarding the formation -of the huge snowfields and glaciers depend.</p> - -<p>As soon as the ice in the bay was strong enough to -bear, Murray prepared to capture the different marine -creatures that rest on the bottom of the sea or creep -about there. His ultimate plan for the capture of -specimens was, whenever a crack opened in the bay ice, -to let down a line, one end being made fast at one end -of the crack, and the length of the line allowed to sink -in the water horizontally for a distance of sixty yards.</p> - -<p>A hole was dug at each end of the line, and a small -dredge was let down and pulled along the bottom, -being hauled up through the hole at the far end. By this -means rich collections were made, and rarely did the -dredge come up without some interesting specimens.</p> - -<p>Although terrestrial vegetation is very scanty in the -Antarctic, the same cannot be said of the sub-aqueous -plant-life; and the investigations of the plant-life in -the lakes was one of the principal things undertaken -by Murray, Priestley and the Professor during the winter -months.</p> - -<p>As the winter approached a regular winter routine -was arranged for the camp, and apart from Brocklehurst, -who was laid up with his frost-bitten foot, all the party -had to do a certain amount of work for the common -weal, apart from their own scientific duties.</p> - -<p>From the time we arrived we always had a night-watchman, -and we now took turns to carry out this -important duty, Roberts, who was busy cooking all day, -being the only one who was exempt from night duties.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">- 97 -</span></p> - -<p>Many as the duties—such as taking the meteorological -observations, looking after hut, ponies and dogs, and -keeping up the fire—were, they were not unpleasant: -for when our turn came round we had a chance to wash -clothes, darn socks, and do little jobs which could not -receive much attention during the day. The night-watchman -generally took his bath either once a fortnight -or once a month, as his inclination prompted -him.</p> - -<p>The watchman during the earlier months was kept -busy enough, for the ponies were constantly trying to -break loose and, generally speaking, to upset things in -the stable, and it was a comfort when they at last learned -to keep fairly quiet.</p> - -<p>Another difficulty the watchman encountered was that -of keeping the hut warm when, instead of lumps of coal, -he had to content himself with very fine stuff. To meet -this difficulty we had recourse to lumps of seal blubber, -and it was good to know that with the large supply of -seals obtainable in these latitudes no expedition need -want emergency fuel.</p> - -<p>Towards mid-winter an institution known as eleven-o'clock -tea grew into existence, the Professor being -greatly attached to this, and generally undertaking to -make the tea for the men still out of bed. By one o'clock, -however, most of the hut party were wrapped in more -or less noisy slumber. The watchman's most trying time -was about five o'clock in the morning: for then one's -eyes grew heavy, and great effort was needed to prevent -oneself from falling asleep.</p> - -<p>At 7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Roberts was called, and at this hour -Armytage or Mackay was roused up to feed the ponies; -but before mid-winter day Armytage took over the -entire responsibility of the stables and ponies. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">- 98 -</span> -8.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> all hands were called, special attention being -paid to turning out the messman for the day; and at -nine o'clock sharp every one sat down to breakfast.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">STILL IN THE HUT</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> duties of the messman were more onerous than -those of the night watchman, and began by laying the -table—a simple operation owing to the primitive conditions -under which we lived. He then garnished this with -hot sauces to tickle some of our tough palates, and when -we sat down he passed up bowls of porridge and the big -jug of hot milk, which was the standing dish every day.</p> - -<p>Then came the messman's order, "Up bowls," and, -reserving our spoons, the bowls were passed along. If -it were a "fruit day"—a day when the second course -consisted of bottled fruit—the bowls were retained for -this popular dish.</p> - -<p>After he had been assisted in washing up the breakfast -things, the duty of the man in the house was to fill the -melting-pots with ice, empty the ashes and tins into the -dust-box outside, and get in a bag of coal. One often -heard the messman anxiously enquiring what the dinner -dishes consisted of, the most popular, from his point -of view, being those which resulted in the least amount -of grease on the plates. The hut was swept out three -times a day, so that the building was kept in a tidy -state.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">- 99 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_99" style="width: 605px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_99.png" width="605" height="427" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Type-case and Printing Press for the production of the "Aurora Australis" in -Joyce's and Wild's Cubicle, known as "The Rouges' Retreat."</span> (<i>See page 100</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">- 100 -</span></p> - -<p>It would only be repetition to chronicle our doings -from day to day, during the months that passed from -the disappearance of the sun until the welcome daylight -returned. We lived under conditions of steady routine, -and having more than enough to occupy us in our daily -work that spectre known as "Polar ennui" never -appeared.</p> - -<p>At night some of us played bridge, poker and -dominoes; but Joyce, Wild, Marston and Day spent -much time in the production of the "Aurora Australis," -the first book ever written, printed, illustrated and -bound in the Antarctic.</p> - -<p>Messrs. Joseph Causton & Sons, Ltd., had generously -given us a complete printing outfit and the paper for the -book, and Joyce and Wild had been instructed in type-setting -and printing, Marston being taught etching and -lithography.</p> - -<p>They had hardly become skilled craftsmen, but although -the early days of the printing department were not exactly -happy, the work progressed steadily, until at the end of -a fortnight or so two pages could be printed a day. -Day meanwhile prepared the binding by cleaning, -planing and polishing wood taken from the venesta -cases, while Marston reproduced the illustrations by -printing from aluminium plates.</p> - -<p>Marston was handicapped by the fact that all our -water had a trace of salt in it, but he managed to produce -what we all regarded as creditable pictures. In its final -form the book consisted of about 120 pages; and at -any rate it had helped to guard us from a dangerous -lack of occupation during the polar night.</p> - -<p>On March 13 we experienced a very fierce blizzard, -and cases weighing from 50 to 80 lb. were actually shifted -from their positions; so when the gale was over we put -everything that could possibly blow away into places -of greater safety.</p> - -<p>On this day Murray found living microscopical animals<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">- 101 -</span> -on some fungus that had been thawed out from a lump -of ice taken from the bottom of one of the lakes, this -being one of the most interesting discoveries that had -been made in the Antarctic, for the study of these minute -creatures threw a new light on the capability of life to -exist under conditions of extreme cold and in the face -of great variations of temperature.</p> - -<p>From our point of view, it was humorous to see -Murray trying to slay the little animals he had found. -He used to thaw them from a block of ice, freeze them -up again, and repeat this process several times without -causing the rotifers any inconvenience. Then he tested -them in brine so strongly saline that it would not freeze -at a temperature above minus 7° Fahr., and still the -animals lived, and a good proportion of them survived -a temperature of 200° Fahr. It became a contest between -rotifers and scientist, and generally the rotifers seemed to -triumph.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Tongue and pencil would sadly fail to describe the -magic of the colouring in the days when the sun was -leaving us. The very clouds at this time were iridescent -with rainbow hues. The change from twilight into night, -sometimes lit by a crescent moon, was extraordinarily -beautiful, for the white cliffs gave no part of their -colour away, and the rocks beside them did not part -with their blackness; so the effect of deepening night -over these contrasts was singularly weird. Throughout -April hardly a day passed without an auroral display, -and about the beginning of that month the temperature -began to drop considerably, and in calm, still weather -the thermometer often registered 40° below zero.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>On April 6 Marshall decided that it was necessary to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">- 102 -</span> -amputate Brocklehurst's big toe, as there was no sign -of its recovery from frost-bite; and the patient having -been put under chloroform, the bone was removed, and -the sufferer moved to my room, where he remained till -just before mid-winter's day.</p> - -<p>When mid-winter's day had passed, and the twilight -became daily more marked, I set on foot arrangements -for the sledging work in the following spring. For it was -desirable that, at the earliest possible date, a depot of -stores should be placed at a point to the south, in preparation -for the departure of the Southern Party, which -was to march towards the Pole. This depot I hoped to -make at least a hundred miles from the winter quarters.</p> - -<p>It was also desirable that definite information should -be obtained regarding the condition of the snow surface -on the Barrier; and I also wanted various members -of the party to have practice in sledging before the -serious work began. Considering our scarcity of ponies, -I resolved that these preliminary sledging journeys should -be performed by man-haulage.</p> - -<p>During the winter I had given earnest consideration -to the question of the date on which the party that -was to march towards the Pole should leave the hut. -Our hoped-for goal lay over 880 statute miles to the -south, and the brief summer was all too short a time -in which to march so far into the unknown and return. -The ship would have to leave for the north about the -end of February, for the ice would then be closing in; -and, moreover, we could not hope to carry on our sledges -much more than a three months' supply of provisions -on anything like full rations.</p> - -<p>Finally, I resolved that the Southern Party should -leave mid-winter quarters on October 28, for by starting -earlier the ponies would probably suffer from the severe -cold at nights; and if the ponies were quickly incapacitated, -we should have gained no advantage from our -early start.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">- 103 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_103" style="width: 578px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_103.png" width="578" height="420" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Preparing a Sledge during the Winter</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">- 104 -</span></p> - -<p>But the date having been fixed, it became necessary -to arrange for the laying of the depot during the early -spring, and I thought that the first step towards this -should be a preliminary journey on the Barrier surface, -so that we might gain an idea of the prevailing conditions, -and find out if the motor-car would be of service for at -any rate the early portion of the journey.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX<br /> -<span class="smaller">PRELIMINARY JOURNEYS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> sun had not yet returned and the temperature was -exceedingly low, but the <i>Discovery</i> expedition had proved -that it is quite possible to travel under these conditions. -Accordingly I started on this preliminary journey on -August 12, taking with me Professor David, who was to -lead the Northern Party towards the South Magnetic -Pole, and Bertram Armytage who was to take charge of -the party that was to journey into the mountains of the -west later in the year.</p> - -<p>We were equipped for a fortnight with provisions and -camp gear, packed on one sledge, and had three gallons -of petroleum in case we decided to stay out longer. A -gallon will last three men for about ten days, and we -could get more food at Hut Point if we required it. We -took three one-man sleeping bags, for although the larger -bags are certainly warmer one's rest in them is very likely -to be disturbed by the movements of a companion.</p> - -<p>At first the weather was bad and consequently progress<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">- 105 -</span> -was slow, but although the temperature was about forty -degrees below zero we slept soundly at night, and arose -praising the one-man sleeping bags.</p> - -<p>We reached the old <i>Discovery</i> winter quarters at Hut -Point on the morning of August 14, and I took the -Professor and Armytage over all the familiar ground.</p> - -<p>To me the revisiting of these old scenes was supremely -interesting. Here was the place where, years before, -when the <i>Discovery</i> was lying fast in the ice close to the -shore, we used to dig for the ice required for the supply of -fresh water. The marks of the picks and shovel could -still be seen, and I noticed an old case bedded in the ice, -and remembered the day when it had been thrown away. -The fascination of the unknown swept upon me as I -stood in those familiar surroundings, and I longed to be -away towards the south on the journey that I hoped -would lay bare the mysteries of the Pole.</p> - -<p>The old hut had never been a cheerful place even when -we were camped alongside it in the <i>Discovery</i>, and it -looked doubly inhospitable now after standing empty for -six years. I proposed, however, to use it as a stores -depot in connection with the southern journey, for it was -twenty miles further south than our winter quarters. We -slept there that night and on the following morning started -for our journey across the Barrier.</p> - -<p>The chief result of this expedition was to convince me -that we could not place much reliance on the motor-car -for the southern journey, because the condition of the -surface on the Barrier varied from mile to mile, and it -would be impossible to keep changing the wheels of the -car so as to meet the requirements of each new surface.</p> - -<p>Professor David and Armytage had also received a good -baptism of frost, and as it was desirable that every -member of the expedition should have personal experience<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">- 106 -</span> -of travelling over ice and snow in low temperatures before -the real work began, I arranged to dispatch a small party -every week to sledge stores and equipment south to Hut -Point.</p> - -<p>I did not hesitate to let these parties face bad weather, -because the road was well known, and a rough experience -would be useful to men later on. Each party returned -with adventures to relate, and curiously all of them -encountered bad weather, but there were no accidents -and the men seemed to enjoy the work.</p> - -<p>Early in September Adams, Marshall and I started -for Hut Point, and decided to make one march of the -twenty-three miles, and not camp on the way. A -blizzard, however, struck us when we were near our goal, -and abandoning the extra weights we were pulling for the -depot, we managed to reach the hut in a sorely frost-bitten -condition. I mention this to show how constantly one has -to guard against the onslaughts of the elements in the -inhospitable regions of the south.</p> - -<p>By the middle of September a good supply of provisions, -oil and gear was stored at Hut Point, in fact everything -needed for the southern journey had been taken there so -that the start might be made from the most southern -base available. Also while the men were gaining experience -the ponies were being given exercise, and I felt that -these little Manchurian animals were going to justify my -confidence. After many experiments I concluded that -650 lb. per pony should be the maximum load, this weight -including the sledge itself which weighed about 60 lb.</p> - -<p>When the question of weight came to be considered -I realised more than ever the seriousness of the loss of the -other four ponies. It was evident that we could not take -to the Pole as much food as I would have liked.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">- 107 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_107" style="width: 441px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_107.png" width="441" height="627" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Leader of the Expedition in Winter Garb</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">- 108 -</span></p> - -<p>On September 22 I started out again with a party -consisting of Adams, Marshall, Wild, Marston and Joyce -and myself to place a depot 160 statute miles south of the -<i>Discovery</i> winter quarters, the depot to consist of pony -maize. The loads were about 170 lb. per man, and the -journey was a severe one, for at times the temperature got -down to 59° below zero Fahr.</p> - -<p>We reached the main depot in latitude 79° 36′ South, -longitude 168° East on October 6, and this we called -"Depot A." It was marked with an upturned sledge -and a black flag on a bamboo rod, and here we deposited -a gallon tin of oil and 167 lb. of pony maize so that our -load would be materially reduced for the first portion of -the journey south.</p> - -<p>The weather was shockingly severe on our return -journey, and we did not reach the old <i>Discovery</i> winter -quarters until October 13, but continuing our march -home on the following day we were lucky enough to meet -the motor-car, and with the sledges hitched on, we drove -triumphantly back to winter quarters.</p> - -<p>During our absence the Northern Party, consisting of -Professor David, Mawson and Mackay, had started on -their journey to the South Magnetic Pole. I said good-bye -to the Professor and his two companions on September 22 -and we did not meet again until March 1, 1909.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX<br /> -<span class="smaller">ARRANGEMENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Southern Party was to leave winter quarters on -October 29, so on our return from Depot A we began -finally to prepare for our attempt to reach the South -Pole. I decided that Adams, Marshall and Wild should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">- 109 -</span> -go with me and that we should take provisions for -ninety-one days. This amount of food with other equipment -brought the load per pony up to the weight fixed as -the maximum safe load. The supporting party was to -accompany us for some distance so that we might start -fairly fresh from a point beyond the rough ice off Minna -Bluff, and we were to take the four ponies and four -sledges.</p> - -<p>Early in 1907 I had proposed that one party should -travel to the east across the Barrier surface towards -King Edward VII Land, but the loss of so many ponies -caused me to abandon this project.</p> - -<p>Arrangements, however, were made for sending out -a party early in December to lay a depot for the Northern -Party, and when this was done, the same men were to -proceed to the western mountains.</p> - -<p>Also on January 15, 1909, a party under Joyce, was -to lay a depot near Minna Bluff containing sufficient -stores for the return of the Southern Party from that -point. This same party was to return to Hut Point, -reload and march out to the depot a second time, and -await the arrival of the Southern Party until February 10, -1909. If the Southern Party had not arrived by that -date, Joyce and his companions were to go back to Hut -Point and thence to the ship.</p> - -<p>Before my departure I left instructions which provided -for the conclusion of the work of the Expedition in its -various branches, and for the relief of the men left in the -Antarctic in the event of the non-return of the Southern -Party.</p> - -<p>To Murray I gave command of the Expedition and -full instructions during my absence.</p> - -<p>The provisioning of the Southern Party was long and -anxiously considered, and Marshall went very carefully -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">- 110 -</span> -into the question of the relative food-values of the various -supplies, and we were able to derive much useful information -from the experience of previous expeditions.</p> - -<p>At length we decided that the daily allowance of food -for each man on the journey, as long as full rations were -given, was to be as follows:</p> - -<table> -<tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdc">Oz.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Pemmican</td> - <td class="tdc">7·5</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Emergency Ration</td> - <td class="tdc">1·5</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Biscuit</td> - <td class="tdc">16     </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Cheese or Chocolate</td> - <td class="tdc">2  </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Cocoa</td> - <td class="tdc">·7</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Plasmon</td> - <td class="tdc">1  </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Sugar</td> - <td class="tdc">4·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Quaker Oats</td> - <td class="tdc">1  </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td></td> - <td class="bdt tdc">34·0</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p>Tea, salt, and pepper were extras not weighed in with -the daily allowance. We used about two ounces of tea -per day for the four men, and the salt and pepper were -carried in small bags, each bag to last one week.</p> - -<p>Everything was ready for the start as the end of -October approached, and we looked forward with keen -anticipation to the venture. The supporting-party, consisting -of Joyce, Marston, Priestly, Armytage, and -Brocklehurst, was to accompany us for the first ten days.</p> - -<p>The weather was not very good towards the end of -October, but there were signs that summer was coming. -We spent the last days overhauling sledges and equipment, -and our evenings in writing letters for those at home, -to be delivered in the event of our not returning from the -unknown regions into which we hoped to penetrate.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">- 111 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_111" style="width: 578px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_111.png" width="578" height="425" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Motor-car in the Garage, Maize-Crusher on the right</span></div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">- 112 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE START TO THE SOUTH POLE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Brilliant</span> sunshine and a cloudless sky were an auspicious -beginning to the day on which we started upon our -attempt to plant the Union Jack, which the Queen had -given us, on the last untrodden spot of the world. Yet -on leaving the hut where we had spent so many months -in comfort, we had a feeling of real regret that never -again should we all be together.</p> - -<p>The supporting-party started first, and at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we -said good-bye to Murray and Roberts, who were to be left -behind, and we four of the Southern Party followed -with an intense desire to do well for the sake of every one -concerned in the Expedition.</p> - -<p>Hardly, however, had we been marching for an hour -when mishaps began to occur. First of all Socks went -dead lame, and soon afterwards, when we were halting -to feed ourselves and the ponies, Grisi lashed out and -struck Adams just below the knee.</p> - -<p>Three inches higher and the blow would have shattered -both his knee-cap and his hopes of reaching the South -Pole. As it was the bone was almost exposed and he -was in great pain, although he said very little about it. -What he would have done if he had been completely -knocked out it is impossible to imagine, as his interest -in the Expedition was intense.</p> - -<p>On October 30 we reached Hut Point and with Adams -better, the ponies recovered from their lameness, and -the weather gloriously fine, we rejoiced to be out at last -on the long trail.</p> - -<p>Quan fit or unfit was the most mischievous of all the -ponies, for when any one was looking his special delight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">- 113 -</span> -was to bite his tether, and unfortunately he did this on -one occasion when no one was watching him and played -havoc with the maize and other fodder. When we tried -to catch him he dashed from one sledge to another tearing -bags to pieces and trampling the food out, kicking up his -heels and showing that he was deliberately destructive, -for his distended appearance proved that he had eaten -more than his fill.</p> - -<p>We left the sea ice on November 3, but instead of finding -a better surface on the Barrier, we discovered that the -going was more difficult than ever. The ponies, however, -pulled magnificently and every hour the pony-leaders -changed places with the sledge-haulers. On the next -day we wore goggles, as we were already feeling the trying -light, and as soon as we had passed the end of White -Island the surface became softer and it was trying work -for both men and ponies. Still, however, we tramped -along, the supporting-party pulling magnificently, and -our march for the day was over sixteen miles.</p> - -<p>Up to this time we had been blessed with fair weather, -but on Guy Fawkes' Day we encountered driving snow -which made our steering very wild. In the bad light -the sastrugi could not be seen, and the surface was very -bad for both ponies and men. Minor mishaps were -natural under such conditions, and after Marshall, who -was leading Grisi, had got his legs into a crevasse, and -soon afterwards Wild, Adams and Marshall had got into -another crevasse, there was nothing for it but to pitch -camp and wait until the weather cleared.</p> - -<p>To our sorrow we had to lie during the whole of the -next day in our sleeping-bags except when we went out -of them to feed the ponies, for a blizzard was upon us -with thick drift. One can scarcely realise how trying it -is to be held up by blizzards, unless one has been on a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">- 114 -</span> -polar expedition and knows that each lost day means -also the consumption of 40 lb. of pony feed alone. Nevertheless, -we endeavoured to make the best of an irritating -situation, and in our one-man sleeping-bags each of us -had a little home, where he could read and write and look -at his household gods—if he had brought any with him.</p> - -<p>During the morning I passed the time reading <i>Much -Ado About Nothing</i>—an inappropriate play perhaps for -me to be reading when I was worrying over our delay -and thought that I had good cause to be.</p> - -<p>The blizzard would not have mattered so much if we -had only to consider ourselves, for we could save on the -food, but if the ponies were to be of much use to us they -had to be properly fed.</p> - -<p>On the 7th the weather was better, though still very -thick and overcast, and cheered by the supporting-party, -who were returning to winter quarters, we started off -with the ponies pulling splendidly. But almost immediately -we found ourselves in a maze of crevasses. The -first one which Marshall crossed with Grisi was 6 ft. wide, -and when I looked down there was nothing to be seen but -a black yawning void.</p> - -<p>Crevasses were here, there, and everywhere, and we -had to camp between two large ones and wait until the -light became better, for to proceed in such weather was -to court disaster.</p> - -<p>At last we were quite on our own resources, and as -regards comfort in the tents were very well off, for with -only two men in each tent there was plenty of room. -Adams began by sharing a tent with me, but we decided -to shift about so that we could take turns with each other -as tent-mates.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">- 115 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_115" style="width: 629px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_115.png" width="629" height="413" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Southern Party marching into the White Unknown,</span> (<i>See page 112</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">- 116 -</span></p> - -<p>In respect to books also we were well supplied, for I -took Shakespeare's Comedies with me, Marshall had -Borrow's "The Bible in Spain," Adams, Arthur Young's -"Travels in France," and Wild "Sketches by Boz." -By changing round when we had finished, we had literature -enough to keep us going for many hours when we were -unable to march.</p> - -<p>No literature, however, could prevent us from chafing -at the weather which kept us in our bags until the -morning of November 9, but the difficulties of travelling -over snow and ice in a bad light are practically insurmountable.</p> - -<p>When the light is diffused by clouds or mist, it casts no -shadows on the dead white surface, which consequently -appears to the eye to be uniformly level. Often when -we thought that we were marching on a level surface, -we would suddenly fall two or three feet, and the strain -on the eyes under these conditions was very great.</p> - -<p>It is, indeed, when the sun is covered and the weather -thickish that one is in danger of snow-blindness, that -painful complaint with which we all became too well -acquainted during the southern journey.</p> - -<p>The only way to guard against an attack is to wear -goggles the whole time, but when one is perspiring on -account of exertion with the sledges, the glasses fog and -they have to be taken off so that they may be wiped. -When they were removed, the glare from the surrounding -whiteness was intense, and the only relief was to get -inside a tent, which was made of a green material very -restful to the eyes.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 8th the weather cleared, and we -saw that we were in a regular nest of crevasses, Marshall -and Wild finding that their tent was pitched on the edge -of a previously unseen one.</p> - -<p>To stand in drift for four days with 24° of frost was -so bad for the ponies that we were thankful that their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">- 117 -</span> -appetites for the hot food we gave to them was not -affected, but we wanted to get under way and put -some good marches in before we could feel really happy.</p> - -<p>The distance as the crow flies from our winter quarters -to the Pole is 750 geographical miles and as yet we had -only done fifty-one. That a polar explorer needs a large -stock of patience in his equipment is not to be denied, -and as we lay in our bags anxious to be marching yet -unable to move we drew heavy draughts upon our stock.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII<br /> -<span class="smaller">ONWARD</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> morning of the 9th was fine, calm and clear, and, -as soon as we had dug the sledges out of the drift and -breakfasted, we set out to find a track among the -crevasses. Our hunt for crevasses was successful enough, -for we discovered all sorts from narrow cracks to ugly -chasms with no bottom visible, but to find a track through -them was beyond our powers.</p> - -<p>There was indeed nothing for it but to trust to Providence, -and having got under way we got over the first -few crevasses without difficulty. And then all of a -sudden Chinaman went down a crack which ran parallel -to our course.</p> - -<p>Adams tried to pull him out and he struggled gamely, -but it was not until Wild and I left our sledges and hauled -along Chinaman's sledge that, just in time, he managed -to get on to firm ice, for three feet more and it would have -been all up with the Southern Journey. The three-foot -crack opened out into a great fathomless chasm, and -down that would have gone the pony, all our cooking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">- 118 -</span> -gear and biscuits and half the oil, and probably Adams -as well.</p> - -<p>But when things seem to be as hopeless as possible -they often take a sudden change for the better, and in -our case this was the last crevasse we encountered for -some time, and at length, with a gradually improving -surface, we were really able to push along.</p> - -<p>During the day we knocked off over 14 miles of those -intervening between us and our goal, and we turned in -for the night in a more cheerful frame of mind. Our -rest, however, was disturbed by the mischievous Quan -eating away the straps on his rug, and Grisi and Socks -fighting over it. The propensities of Manchurian ponies -for eating peculiar things must certainly be allowed to -have their drawbacks.</p> - -<p>Such accidents may seem very trivial, but they meant -work for us in repairing the damage, and when one is -thoroughly tired after a day's march one does not welcome -any unlooked for labour.</p> - -<p>To our astonishment during our march in the afternoon -we came across the track of an Adelie penguin, and where -on earth the bird had come from was a mystery. It had -been travelling on its stomach for a long way, and it had -at least fifty miles to travel before it could reach food -and water, and the nearest water in the direction from -which it had come was over fifty miles away. Among -penguins this bird ought, I think, to have been credited -with an adventurous disposition.</p> - -<p>With better weather for the next few days we made -good progress towards the depot where 167 lb. of pony -food was lying, and our appetites were already too good -for the amount of food we were allowing ourselves. -Perhaps those who have never known what it is to be -desperately hungry will be disgusted at us for remembering -that when the ponies had done their work we should be -able to add horse-meat to our rations. But I can say -with truth that until the ponies had to be killed they -were treated with a liberality that we denied sternly to -ourselves.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">- 119 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_119" style="width: 447px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_119.png" width="447" height="618" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Cape Barne and Inaccessible Island by Moonlight</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">- 120 -</span></p> - -<p>To pick up a depot which is only a tiny speck in a vast -snowy plain and is nearly sixty miles from the nearest -land, is like picking up a buoy in the North Sea with only -distant mountains for bearings, and I was most anxious -that we should reach it before the glorious weather broke -up, for there was stored not only the pony feed but also -a most valuable gallon of oil.</p> - -<p>Imagine then my delight when, on the evening of the -14th, Wild, who was outside the camp looking through -the Goertz glasses, shouted that he could see the depot. -We rushed out at once, and there were the flag and sledge -to be seen plainly through the glasses. On the next -morning we found everything intact and the flag waving -merrily in the breeze, and we camped there for a few -hours so that we could distribute weights and parcel our -provision to be left there for our return journey.</p> - -<p>It went to our hearts to leave a tin of sardines and a -pot of black currant jam which we had intended for our -feast on Christmas Day, but every ounce of additional -weight was so important, that although we felt that we -ought to take as much food as we possibly could these -luxuries had to be left behind.</p> - -<p>We were on again soon after one o'clock and when we -camped that night we built a snow mound as a guide -to our homeward track, and decided to build one at each -camp we made. Having two shovels with us, in ten -minutes a mound 6 or 7 ft. high could be built, and -although we wondered whether our tracks would remain -longer than our mounds, or our mounds longer than the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">- 121 -</span> -tracks, we thought it most advisable to neglect no precautions. -And as a matter of fact these mounds remained -after the sledge tracks had vanished, and were a great -comfort to us on our journey back.</p> - -<p>Everything continued to go splendidly for us, and I -could not help contrasting the progress of our last few -days with the time six years before, when I was toiling -along five miles a day over the same ground.</p> - -<p>On November 16, for instance, we covered over 17 -miles, a record day for us; and also every one was in -splendid health, my eyes (which had been attacked by -snow blindness) were better, and although split lips -prevented us laughing we were going straight as a die to -the south—a reason sufficient in itself for our cheerfulness.</p> - -<p>Another opportunity for contrast was that between our -parsimony in the way of food and Quan's wastefulness. -To economise we saved three lumps of sugar each day so -that in time we might build up a reserve stock, while -Quan with his marvellous digestion preferred to -eat a yard of creosoted rope than his proper bait, and -often in sheer wantonness threw the food given to him all -over the snow.</p> - -<p>By this time the work was beginning to tell upon the -ponies, especially upon Chinaman, but all of them continued -to work splendidly in their own particular way, -and naturally we were anxious to advance our food-supply -as far as possible south before the ponies gave out.</p> - -<p>Quan plodded stolidly through everything, possibly -thinking of what tricks he would play at night but at the -same time working magnificently; Chinaman was the -first to show signs of collapse, but his spirit was willing -though his strength was weakening; Grisi and Socks -took all soft places with a rush.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">- 122 -</span></p> - -<p>But in spite of the hard labours of the day we always -felt confident that the ponies would enjoy themselves -in their peculiar way at night, and on one occasion I had -to go out to prevent Socks from biting and swallowing -lumps out of Quan's tail. If we had ever anticipated -that they would have played such games, we should have -taken a longer wire to tether them and keep them apart.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">BEYOND ALL FORMER FOOTSTEPS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> November 18 I imagined that we had reached the -windless area of the Pole, for the Barrier was a dead, -smooth, white plain, weird beyond description, and, -having no land in sight, we felt tiny specks in the immensity -around us. It seemed as though we were in some -other world, and yet the things that concerned us most -were such trifles as split lips and big appetites.</p> - -<p>Already the daily meals were all too short, and we -wondered what it would be like when we were really -hungry. However, we were moving on at a rate of about -fifteen miles a day, and every night that we camped we -felt that another long step towards our desire had been -made.</p> - -<p>Soon I discovered that I was wrong in thinking that -we had reached the windless area, for all the sastrugi -began to point due south, but the whole place and conditions -were so unlike anything else in the world of our -experience, that it was extremely difficult to make correct -forecasts as to what we should next encounter.</p> - -<p>At one moment I thought of Coleridge's "Ancient -Mariner": "Alone, alone; all, all alone, alone on a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">- 123 -</span> -wide, wide sea"; and then, when the mazy clouds sprung -silently up and, not followed by any wind, drifted quickly -across our zenith, the only word to describe my feeling -is uncanny.</p> - -<p>It was as though we were truly at the world's end, and -were bursting in on the birthplace of the clouds and the -nesting-home of the four winds, and we could not suppress -a feeling that we mortals were being watched with a -jealous eye by the forces of nature.</p> - -<p>Still, in spite of these sensations, which every one who -goes out into the intensely lone places of the world must -experience, we were more interested in such things as -heavy going and soft surfaces than in anything else, for -the surface was all-important to us and played the leading -part in our day's work.</p> - -<p>On November 20 we met with a terribly soft surface—so -bad, in fact, that it sounded the death-knell of poor -old Chinaman, who was no longer able to keep up with -the others; and so we had to shoot him on the following -day.</p> - -<p>Let me say again that the killing of the ponies was not -pleasant work, and that our only satisfaction was in -knowing that they were well fed up to the last, and had -suffered no pain. When we had to kill a pony we threw -up a snow-mound to leeward of the camp, and took the -animal behind this out of sight of the others.</p> - -<p>Of necessity we had to eat the meat, and as within a -very short time after killing the carcase was frozen solid, -we always tried to cut the meat into small pieces before -this occurred.</p> - -<p>On the same day that saw the death of Chinaman we -made our second depot, and left there 80 lb. of pony -meat, one tin of biscuits weighing 27 lb., some sugar, and -one tin of oil to see us back to Depot A.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">- 124 -</span></p> - -<p>With three ponies dragging 500 lb. each we left our -depot, with its black flag flying on the bamboo lashed to -a discarded, sledge, and were soon in new land to the -south—land never before seen by human eyes.</p> - -<p>The land consisted of great snow-clad heights rising -beyond Mount Longstaff, and also far inland to the north -of Mount Markham. We found that our latitude was -81° 8′ south.</p> - -<p>The weather still remained splendid for marching, with -a cool breeze from the south and the sun slightly hidden, -but our enjoyment of the glorious view of peaks new to -human eyes was marred by Wild being temporarily -unwell, and by Adams suffering badly from toothache. -Our first attempt to pull out this tooth merely resulted -in the tooth breaking, but at a second attempt Marshall -succeeded in getting it out, an achievement—under the -conditions—as creditable to the one as it was welcome -to the other.</p> - -<p>Steady progress was made until November 26, which -is a day which we travellers at least shall remember, for -on it we passed the "farthest south" previously reached -by man. On this night we reached latitude 82° 18 south, -and our "farthest south" in the march with Captain -Scott was 82° 16½′.</p> - -<p>As each hour passed on this memorable day we found -new interest to the west where the land lies, for we opened -out Shackleton Inlet, and up the inlet a great chain of -mountains, and far into the west still more peaks. To -the west of Cape Wilson another chain of peaks about -10,000 ft. high appeared, and to the south-south-east -new mountains were continually coming into view. It -falls to the lot of few men to see land not previously looked -upon by human eyes, and it was with feelings of keen -curiosity and awe (mingled in my case with a fervent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">- 125 -</span> -hope that no land would block our path) that we watched -the new mountains rise from the great unknown that lay -before us.</p> - -<p>No man of us could even guess what wonders might be -revealed to us in our march south, and our imaginations -took wings until a stumble in the snow or the sharp pangs -of hunger brought back our attention to the needs of -the immediate present.</p> - -<p>Our anxiety, however, to learn what lay before us was -as keen as it could be, and the long days of marching -over the Barrier surface were saved from monotony by -the continued appearance of land to the south-east. As -we marched on and new mountains kept on rising, we -were concerned to notice that they trended more and -more to the eastward, for that meant that we must alter -our course from nearly due south. Nevertheless, we hoped -that when we reached them some strait might be found -which would enable us to go right through them and on -south. Really, however, patience was of more use to us -than speculation, for, come what might, we meant to -push on until our limit of strength was reached.</p> - -<p>By November 28 we had reached a truly awful surface, -and poor Grisi, who had been smitten with snow-blindness, -had to be shot in the evening. Having made Depot C. -and left one week's provisions and oil to carry us back to -Depot B, we went on the next morning with 1200 lb. -weight, which we decided to pull with the ponies, but -we quickly discovered that the ponies would not pull -when we did, so we had to untoggle our harness.</p> - -<p>The whole country seemed to be made up of range -upon range of mountains, but the surface over which we -were going was so bad that the ponies sank in right up -to their bellies, and we had to pull with might and main -to get the sledges to move.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">- 126 -</span></p> - -<p>By evening the ponies were nearly played out, especially -old Quan, who was suffering, not from the weight of the -sledge, but from the effort of lifting his feet and limbs -through the soft snow, and on the following days we had -practically to pull his sledge.</p> - -<p>The time had come for him to go, and I am sure that -we all felt losing him and I was especially sorry, as he -had been my special pony for several months. In spite -of all his annoying tricks, his immense intelligence made -him a general favourite.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV<br /> -<span class="smaller">"THE HIGHWAY TO THE SOUTH"</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> December 1 we reached latitude 83° 16′ south and -could see land stretching away to the east with a long -white line in front of it that looked like a giant barrier. -It seemed as though there was going to be a change -in some gigantic way in keeping with the vastness of our -surroundings.</p> - -<p>At one moment our thoughts were on the grandeur -of the scene, the next on what we would have to eat if -we were let loose in a good restaurant. For we were very -hungry in these days, and lived mainly on pony-meat, -while on the march, to cool our throats as we pulled in -the hot sun, we chewed frozen meat.</p> - -<p>The four of us had, now that Quan was gone, to haul -one sledge while Socks followed behind with the other, -and he soon got into our pace and did splendid work. -Although we were working only in shirts and pyjamas, -the sun beat down on our heads and we perspired freely, -whilst our feet were cold in the snow.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">- 127 -</span></p> - -<p>It was heavy work for us as the surface was as bad -as it could be, but soon after midday we got close enough -to see that ahead of us were enormous pressure ridges, -heavily crevassed and running a long way east, with not -the smallest chance of our being able to get southing that -way any longer on the Barrier. So we had to strike due -south in toward the land, and in the evening were close -to the ridges off the coast.</p> - -<p>There was a red hill about 3000 ft. near to us which -we decided to go up on the following day, so that we -could gain a view of the surrounding country. How -anxious a time this was for us I need hardly mention, -for time was precious and food more so, and unless we -could find a good route through the mountains our way -to the Pole was well-nigh blocked.</p> - -<p>Accordingly after breakfast we started off, leaving all -camp gear standing and a good feed by Socks to last -him for the day. Our allowance for lunch was four biscuits, -four lumps of sugar, and two ounces of chocolate each, -and we hoped to get water at the first of the rocks when -we landed.</p> - -<p>Hardly had we gone one hundred yards when we came -to a crevasse, and, finding it difficult to see clearly with -my goggles, I took them off, and in consequence was -afterwards attacked by snow-blindness.</p> - -<p>Several crevasses were successfully crossed, and then -we were brought up standing by an enormous chasm of -about 80 ft. wide and 300 ft. deep which lay across our -route. By going round to the right we found that this -chasm gradually became filled with snow, and so we -were able to cross and resume our line to the land, which -deceptively appeared quite close but was really miles -away.</p> - -<p>Crossing several more crevasses, we reached about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">- 128 -</span> -midday an area of smooth blue ice where we obtained a -drink of delicious water, and after travelling for half a -mile we got to the base of the mountain which we hoped -to climb so that we might view the country. At 1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> -we had a couple of biscuits, and then started to make our -way up the steep rock-face.</p> - -<p>This was the most difficult part of the whole climb, for -the granite was weathered and split in every direction, -but at last we clambered up this face, and finally gained -the top of a ridge from which an open road to the south -burst upon our view. For running almost north and -south between two huge mountain ranges a great glacier -stretched before us.</p> - -<p>Eagerly we clambered on to the top of the mountain, -and from the summit we could see the glacier stretching -away south inland until at last it seemed to disappear -in high inland ice. This was what we had seen ahead of -us and speculated about so freely.</p> - -<p>There was no longer any question as to the way which -we should go, for though on the glacier we might meet -crevasses and difficulties not to be met with on the -Barrier, yet on the latter we could get no farther than -86° south, and then would have to turn in towards the -land and get over the mountains before we could reach -the Pole.</p> - -<p>Our main difficulty on the glacier route would be, we -thought, with Socks, for as yet we could not hope to -drag the full load ourselves without relay work. All the -afternoon of December 4 we toiled at the sledge while -Socks pulled his load with ease, and eventually we reached -the head of the pass, 2000 ft. above sea-level.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">- 129 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_129" style="width: 673px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_129.png" width="673" height="435" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">New Land. The Party ascended Mount Hope and sighted the Great Glacier, up which they marched -through the Gap. The main body of the Glacier joins the Barrier further to the left.</span> (<i>See page 130</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">- 130 -</span></p> - -<p>From that point there was a gentle descent towards -the glacier, and we camped for the night close to some -blue ice with granite boulders embedded in it, round -which, were pools of water. This last fact may seem -unimportant, but it was really of consequence to us as -this water saved our oil, for we had not to melt snow or -ice.</p> - -<p>The pass through which we had come was flanked by -great granite pillars at least 2000 ft. in height, and which -made a magnificent entrance to the "Highway to the -South."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON THE GREAT GLACIER</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> morning of December 5 saw us breaking camp at -eight o'clock, and proceeding south down an icy slope -to the main glacier. Soon, however, the ice slope gave -place to a snow slope, and after a time the snow was -replaced by blue ice split by so many cracks and crevasses -that it was impossible for Socks to continue to drag the -sledge without our risking his life in one of the many -holes.</p> - -<p>Snow-blindness was still troubling me so much that -I stayed in camp after lunch was over, while Marshall -and Adams went on to spy out a good route for us to -follow. They found that there was more cracked-up -blue ice ahead of us, and—what was much more remarkable—they -also discovered a bird, brown in colour with -a white line under each wing, which had flown just over -their heads and had disappeared to the south.</p> - -<p>Such an incident was wonderfully strange in latitude -83° 40′ south, and what this bird was I am unable to say, -for both Adams and Marshall were sure that it was not a -skua-gull, which was the only bird I could imagine -venturing so far south.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">- 131 -</span></p> - -<p>Our camp for that night was pitched under a wonderful -pillar of granite, and as pieces of granite, from the size -of a hazel-nut to great boulders weighing thirty tons or -more, were lying all around, we felt that at any moment -a great piece of rock might come hurtling upon us. On -one snow slope, indeed, we could see the fresh track of -a fallen rock, but as it was impossible to spread a tent -on the blue ice we were compelled to camp, for half a -mile of crevassed ice lay between us and the snow slope -to the south-south-west, and we were too tired to march -any farther.</p> - -<p>We left a depot at this spot, and then, refreshed by -sleep, we divided up our load and managed to get the -whole lot over the crevasses in three journeys.</p> - -<p>But it was an awful job, for every step was a venture, -and one felt that at any moment our journey towards -the Pole might come to a permanent close. Having, -however, succeeded in crossing this particularly dangerous -half-mile, my companions (leaving me to rest with one -eye entirely blocked up by snow-blindness) went back -for Socks, and early in the afternoon we were once more -camped upon snow. During the rest of that day we had -a wonderful view of the mountains which rose up in -peaks and ranges, but the going was exceedingly heavy -and our progress was consequently very slow.</p> - -<p>He, however, who hopes to go into the unexplored spots -of the world must harden himself to labour, and find -causes for cheerfulness in conditions which are at the -best only comparatively cheering. For instance, on the -following afternoon we were congratulating ourselves -that if the crevasses were as frequent as ever, the light, -at any rate, was better than it had been during the -morning, when suddenly we heard a shout of "Help" -from Wild, who was following us with Socks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">- 132 -</span></p> - -<p>Stopping immediately, we rushed to his assistance, -and saw the pony sledge with the forward end down a -crevasse, and Wild reaching out from the side of the -gulf and hanging on to the sledge. There was no sign -whatever of Socks, and Wild's escape was simply miraculous.</p> - -<p>He had been following our tracks, which passed over -a crevasse entirely covered with snow, when the weight -of the pony had broken through the snow crust and in -a second all was over. Wild told us that he felt a sort of -rushing wind, that the leading rope was snatched from -his hand, and that he put out his arms and just caught -the further edge of the chasm.</p> - -<p>Fortunately for Wild and for us, Socks's weight snapped -the swingle-tree of the sledge, so it was saved though -the upper bearer was broken.</p> - -<p>We lay down on our stomachs and looked into the gulf, -but no sound or sign came to us; we seemed to be gazing -down into a black bottomless pit.</p> - -<p>Poor Socks was gone beyond recall, but if ever men -had cause for gratitude we had in Wild's escape, and in -the saving of the sledge. If the sledge had gone we should -have been left with only two sleeping-bags for the four -of us, and with such a short equipment we could scarcely -have even got back to winter quarters. As it was, the loss -of Socks was a most serious loss to us, because we had -counted upon his meat, but all we could do was to take -on the maize so that we could eat it ourselves.</p> - -<p>Crevasses and pits of unknown depth continued to -beset us, and with 250 lb. per man to haul we naturally -could not march at any great rate; indeed, our anxiety -to find a level and inland ice-sheet, so that we could -increase our speed, was terrific.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">- 133 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_133" style="width: 567px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_133.png" width="567" height="419" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Lower Glacier Depot. The Stores were buried in the Snow near the Rock -in the Foreground</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">- 134 -</span></p> - -<p>Falls, bruises, cut shins, crevasses, razor-edged ice, -and heavy upward pulls were the sum of our days' trials, -not interesting subjects for conversation when the night -found us in camp; but, as a matter of fact, our talk was -mainly about food and the things we would like to eat. -To show how hungry we were, I have only to mention -that by December 9 we were all looking forward to -Christmas Day, for then, whatever happened, we were -resolved to be full of food. On the tenth, after a day's -strenuous fight with the glacier, we camped under a -mountain which we named the "Cloud-Maker," and -ground up the balance of the maize between flat stones, -so that we might use it to eke out our supply of food.</p> - -<p>The method of preparation was as primitive as the -food would have been unpalatable to most people, but -it was the only way we could make the maize fit to cook -without using more oil than we could spare for lengthy -boiling.</p> - -<p>Critical as our position was, we were cheered by the -thought that we were still getting south, but the sledges -were being badly damaged by the continual ice-work, -and as there were still 340 geographical miles between -us and the Pole, we longed for a surface which was a -little less like walking over a cucumber-frame. Of all -the surfaces on which to travel, none can be more irritating -than that of rotten ice through which one's feet -are everlastingly breaking.</p> - -<p>On such a surface, however, we could make a certain -amount of progress, and it was not until December 12 -that we met with conditions which reduced our progress -for the day to a miserable three miles. Sharp-edge blue -ice full of chasms and crevasses, and rising to hills and -sinking into gullies, provided us with obstacles unequalled -in any polar work for difficulty in travelling. Under such -circumstances we had to have recourse to relay work,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">- 135 -</span> -for we could only take on one sledge at a time, two of us -pulling while the others steadied and held the sledge -to keep it straight. In this way we advanced for a mile, -and then returned over the crevasses and hauled up the -other sledges over a surface where often and often a slip -meant death.</p> - -<p>In such rough-and-tumble work the sledges naturally -suffered, and the one with the broken bow frequently -striking against hard, sharp ice, pulled us up with a jerk -and flung us down. In all our difficulties and dangers, -however, we found solace in the thought that the glacier -must eventually end and our longed-for plateau be -reached.</p> - -<p>By December 16 we had crossed nearly one hundred -miles of crevassed ice and risen 6000 ft. on the largest -glacier in the world, and on the following afternoon we -burned our boats behind us as regards warm clothing, -and made a depot of everything except the barest necessities. -But relay work still hampered our progress towards -our goal, and no thirsty man ever longed for water with -more eagerness than we longed for the plateau and the -end of that vast glacier.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON THE PLATEAU TO THE FARTHEST SOUTH</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Never</span> do I expect to meet anything more tantalising -than the plateau on which our hopes were set. By -December 18 I thought that we were almost up, and yet -we had to go on and on, apparently unable to get rid -of the crevasses.</p> - -<p>By this time we were fully conscious that food was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">- 136 -</span> -to be the key to our success or failure to reach the Pole, -and we began to save food in order to spin it out, a saving -which made us almost ravenous with hunger. Each day -we saved two biscuits per man, and also some pemmican -and sugar, and we tried to satisfy our hunger by eating -pony maize, which we soaked in water to make it less -hard. If only dreams prevented one from hunger we -should have been well off, for each night we all dreamed -of foods.</p> - -<p>A week before Christmas we had food for thirty-five -days, and were about three hundred geographical miles -from the Pole, with the same distance back to the depot -we had just made, so that at the best we knew that we -must march on short rations if we were to reach our goal.</p> - -<p>Each succeeding day we hoped to get rid of the crevasses, -but although we were fortunate in having been -favoured with splendid weather, we had to camp each -night sustained by the hope that on the morrow we -should really be upon the plateau, and by the thought -that Christmas Day—with its splendid dinner—was -approaching.</p> - -<p>By December 21—Midsummer Day—the weather had -changed, and we encountered 28° of frost and such -a strong blizzard wind that both our fingers and our ears -were frost-bitten, while our beards were masses of ice -all day long. From the conditions I could easily imagine -that we were on a spring sledging journey, for such a -chilly wind was blowing that it found its way through -the nearly worn-out walls of our tent.</p> - -<p>Relay work still continued to hamper us, and on the -22nd we had to work with the alpine rope all day, dragging -400 lb. at a time up steep slopes and across ridges, -and roping ourselves together when we went back for -the second sledge, because the ground was so treacherous -that often we were only saved by the rope from falling -into fathomless pits.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">- 137 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_137" style="width: 625px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_137.png" width="625" height="410" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Camp below "The Cloudmaker"</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">- 138 -</span></p> - -<p>Wild described this sensation of walking over a surface -of half-ice and half-snow as like walking over the glass -roof of a station, and so accustomed did we become to -crevasses that our usual question when any of us fell -into one was, "Have you found it?"</p> - -<p>I suppose that we became callous as regards immediate -dangers, though I confess that we were always glad to -meet crevasses with their coats off, that is, not hidden -by their perilous snow-coverings. Longing as we were -really to stretch out our legs for the Pole, it can easily -be imagined how irksome this constant succession of -crevasses was. And to add to our discomforts, the temperature -had become so low that the pony-maize refused -any longer to swell in the water, the result being that it -swelled after we had eaten it.</p> - -<p>Christmas Eve, however, brought a change in our -fortunes, and was much the brightest day we had enjoyed -since entering our southern gateway. We covered over -eleven miles, and at night were 9095 ft. above sea-level, -and the way before us was still rising.</p> - -<p>So far we had seen no sign of the very hard surface -that Captain Scott speaks of in connection with his -journey on the Northern Plateau, but we were determined -not to give up hopes of better surfaces, for without them -we knew that we should not reach the Pole. As Christmas -approached our thoughts naturally turned to home and -the festivities and joys of the time. How greatly we -longed to hear "the hansoms slurring through the London -mud" it is impossible to say. But instead of the sights -and sounds of London we were lying in a little tent, -isolated high on the roof of the end of the world, far -indeed from the trodden paths of men.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">- 139 -</span></p> - -<p>Nevertheless our thoughts flew across the wastes of -snow and ice, and across the oceans to those for whom -we were striving, and who, we knew, were thinking of -us.</p> - -<p>By noon on Christmas Day we had by hard hauling -covered over five miles, and had reached a latitude of -85° 51′ south. Then I took a photograph of the camp -with the Queen's flag flying and also our tent flags, my -companions being in the picture, and in the evening we -had a splendid dinner, the details of which I cannot -refrain from giving.</p> - -<p>First came "hoosh," consisting of pony ration boiled up -with pemmican and some of our emergency Oxo and -biscuit. Then in the cocoa-water I boiled our little -plum pudding, which a friend of Wild's had given him. -This, with a drop of medical brandy, was a luxury which -the greatest glutton living might have envied. And -afterwards came cocoa; and, lastly, cigars and a spoonful -of liqueur sent us by a friend in Scotland.</p> - -<p>We were really satisfied for once, and as we knew that -we should not be in that happy state again for many a -long day, we discussed the situation after dinner and -decided still further to reduce our food.</p> - -<p>On Christmas Day we were nearly 250 geographical -miles from the Pole, and having one month's food but -only three weeks' biscuit, we resolved to make each -week's food last ten days, and to throw away everything -except the most absolute necessities.</p> - -<p>Already we were as regards clothes down to the limit, -but at this time we decided also to dump a lot of spare -gear—and risk it.</p> - -<p>Pulling 150 lb. per man, we spent our Boxing Day -among ridges and crevasses. Every time we reached the -top of a ridge we said to ourselves, "Perhaps this is the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">- 140 -</span> -last," but the last was long in coming. And in the meantime -our maize was nearly finished, and our rations were -bound to be shorter than ever. Considering that hard -half-cooked maize gave us indigestion, it is, perhaps, -curious that we were very sorry that there was so little -of it left, but those who have suffered from both hunger -and indigestion know too well which is the harder to -endure.</p> - -<p>On December 28 we reached 10,199 ft. above sea-level -and a latitude of 86° 31', and bad headaches—which -were, I think, a form of mountain sickness—began to -attack us. The sensation was as though the nerves were -being twisted up with a corkscrew and then pulled out. -Our sledge was by this time badly strained, and on the -dreadful bad surface of soft snow was very hard to move; -and when it is remembered that physical labour of any -kind is always trying at a great height, it is not to be -wondered at that we were beginning to feel nearly spent.</p> - -<p>If the rise would only have stopped we could have -endured the cold, but the two together were terribly -trying; and then, to add to our unhappiness, the last -day but one of the old year brought with it such a blizzard -from the south that we had to spend nearly the whole of -it in our sleeping-bags.</p> - -<p>There we lay while precious time and food were going, -and tried to think how we could improve the situation, -but all we could find to console us was the resolution -that if we could get near enough to the Pole to rush for -it, we would leave almost everything behind us and make -the attempt. The last day of the year brought us eleven -miles nearer to our goal, and although our heads were -aching and the shortness of food was telling on us terribly, -we were, in spite of everything, cheered by the thought -that we were still <i>getting south</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">- 141 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_141" style="width: 447px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_141.png" width="447" height="704" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Facsimile or Page of Shackleton's Diary</span></div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">- 142 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII<br /> -<span class="smaller">FARTHEST SOUTH</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">By</span> the evening of New Year's Day we were within -172½ miles of the Pole, so we had managed to beat all -records North and South, and we also had hopes of a better -surface—which were, unfortunately, not fulfilled. Again -we had to battle over very soft snow, and the cold wind -seemed to go right through us, weakened as we were -from want of food.</p> - -<p>Impossible as it was to think of failure yet, I compelled -myself to look at the matter sensibly and to consider the -lives of those who were with me. I felt indeed that if -we went on too far it would be impossible to get back -over such a surface, and then all the results of our efforts -would be lost to the world.</p> - -<p>We had now definitely located the South Pole on the -highest plateau in the world, and our geological and -meteorological work would be of the greatest use to -science. But all this was not the Pole. And how sadly -I realised that I need not say.</p> - -<p>Still, man could only do his best, and after ten hours' -struggle against the strongest forces of nature, one pannikin -of food with two biscuits and a cup of cocoa did -but little to warm and comfort and satisfy him.</p> - -<p>I resolved to make a depot on the 4th and then to -dash for the Pole, and on that day we left a depot on the -great wide plateau, a risk which nothing but the circumstances -could justify, but to which my companions agreed -with the regardlessness of self which they had always -shown.</p> - -<p>Pathetically small did the bamboo look which we left -to mark the little stock of provisions—indeed, we lost<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">- 143 -</span> -sight of it in half an hour, and had to trust that our -footprints in the snow would guide us back again to the -depot.</p> - -<p>By night, however, I knew—and had to acknowledge—that -our limit was almost reached. We had only been -carrying 70 lb. per man since we had made our last -depot, but it was harder work than the 100 odd lb. we -had been pulling the day before, and far harder than -250 lb. had seemed some three weeks previously.</p> - -<p>Nothing could more clearly have convinced me of our -failing strength, even if I could have shut my eyes to the -facts that our faces were cut, our feet and hands always -on the verge of frost-bite, our boots nearly worn out, -and that when we got up in the morning out of the wet -bag, our Burberries became immediately like a coat of -mail, and also that our heads and beards got iced up -with the moisture when breathing on the march.</p> - -<p>What we would have given at that time for a pair of -scissors to trim our beards I should not like to say, and -had we known that we were going to experience such -cold weather we should certainly have kept a pair.</p> - -<p>The main things, indeed, against us were the altitude -and ice-cold wind. Nature had declared against us, and -at the best I had to abandon all hopes of getting nearer -than 100 geographical miles to the Pole.</p> - -<p>During the next day we were absolutely obliged to -increase our food if we were to get on at all, for our -temperatures were far below normal, and I had such a -headache that I should be sorry for any living man who -had to endure such pain.</p> - -<p>Never once had the thermometer been above zero -since we had been on to the plateau, though this was the -height of summer, and on January 6 we had to endure -57° of frost with a strong blizzard and high drift.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">- 144 -</span></p> - -<p>Still, helped by the bigger rations—which did not -amount to anything approaching full rations—we marched -thirteen and a quarter geographical miles and reached -88° 7′ south. But at night I had to admit that this must -be our last outward march, though I determined that -we would make one more rush south with the flag. With -what feelings of sadness I came to this decision I cannot -even try to describe. Only one thing softened our grievous -disappointment, and that was the conviction that we -had striven to the very limit of our strength, and had not -given in until the forces of nature combined with our -scanty supply of food had conquered us.</p> - -<p>Two days, however, had to be passed in our bags before -we could make the final dash with the flag, days of -shrieking blizzard and piercing cold, days in which our -valuable food was going without our marching, and in -which we had a gloomy foreboding that our tracks, to -which we were trusting mainly to find our depot, might -drift up.</p> - -<p>Truly we realised that we had taken a most serious -risk, and that we were in a most critical situation, but -we were partly sustained by the fact that, at any rate, -we had played the game to the last and utmost.</p> - -<p>With 72° of frost the wind cut searchingly into our -thin tent, and even the drift found its way on to our -bags, which were wet enough already. Cramp kept on -attacking us, and every now and then a frozen foot had -to be nursed into life again by placing it inside the shirt -and next to the skin of the sufferer's almost as suffering -neighbour. To add to our dreariness we had nothing to -read, as we had depoted our little books so that we -might save weight.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">- 145 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_145" style="width: 572px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_145.png" width="572" height="378" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Farthest South Camp after sixty hours' Blizzard.</span> (<i>See page 144</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">- 146 -</span></p> - -<p>We had honestly and truly shot our bolt at last, and -when the wind dropped about midnight we were soon up -and ready to struggle forward a little further and hoist -the flag as near to the South Pole as we could possibly -bear it.</p> - -<p>At 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on January 9 we were in latitude 88° 23' -south, longitude 162° east, half running and half walking -over a surface much hardened by the recent blizzard, -and it was indeed strange to us to go along without the -nightmare of that heavy sledge dragging behind us.</p> - -<p>Soon the time came when we had to hoist Her Majesty's -flag and afterwards the other Union Jack, and then we -took possession of the plateau in the name of His Majesty. -And while the Union Jack blew out stiff in the icy gale -which was still cutting us to the bone, we looked south -with our powerful glasses, but could see nothing but the -dead white snow plain.</p> - -<p>No break in the plateau was to be seen as it extended -toward the Pole, and we felt absolutely sure that the -goal which we had struggled for—and failed to reach—lay -on this plain.</p> - -<p>We stayed only for a few minutes, and then, taking -the Queen's flag with us, we turned our backs upon the -Pole and began to retrace our steps. Regretfully it is -true, but conscious that, though failure was ours, we had -done our best to avoid it.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE RETURN MARCH</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> homeward marches are a tale of sufferings from -hunger and dysentery, of struggles against blizzards and -crevasses and bad surfaces. One desire drove us on from -depot to depot, and that was our supreme craving for -food.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">- 147 -</span></p> - -<p>All of us had tragic dreams of getting food to eat, but -rarely did we have the satisfaction of dreaming that we -were actually eating. I did, however, once have a dream -that I was eating bread and butter. Conscience is said -to make men cowardly, and I am sure that it is as true -to say that hunger makes them very peevish and irritable. -We looked at each other as we ate our scanty meals, and -felt a distinct grievance if one man managed to make -his ration last longer than the rest of us. Sometimes -we did our best to save a bit of biscuit for the next meal, -but the problem whether it was better to eat the food at -once or to keep a fragment to nibble afterwards was -never solved.</p> - -<p>At the start circumstances may be said to have favoured -us, for we picked up the depot which we had ventured -to leave on the great white plain, and the wind was so -strongly behind that we were able to put the sail on the -sledge.</p> - -<p>In five days we had knocked off some eighty-six -geographical miles of those which separated us from our -home, and as we were left with only six days' biscuit on -short ration and had to go 120 more miles before we -reached our next depot, we decided to cut down our -food by another biscuit.</p> - -<p>A following wind continued to help us, and the sail was -of such assistance that on one day we made a record of -twenty-six and a half miles, and beat it on the next by -doing twenty-nine miles.</p> - -<p>But although to beat records is pleasant under any -circumstances, my own pleasure was rather diminished -by the facts that my heels were frost-bitten and cracked, -and that there were also cracks under some of my toes.</p> - -<p>We had, however, struggled on until we were within -eight and a half miles of our depot, though had we been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">- 148 -</span> -hindered instead of helped by the strong blizzard wind, -it is no exaggeration to say that our chance of escaping -starvation would have been inexpressibly small.</p> - -<p>On the 20th we reached our depot at 12.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> with -sore and aching bodies, and after a struggle against -countless difficulties. For two hours we descended a -snow-slope, with heavy sastrugi, and then we struck -half a mile of badly crevassed <i>névé</i>. After that we got on -to blue slippery ice, where we could obtain no foothold, -and to add to the discomfort and danger of the situation, -a gale was blowing which swept the sledge sideways and -knocked us off our feet.</p> - -<p>All of us had heavy falls, and I had two very heavy -ones which shook me severely. On several occasions one -or more of us lost our footing and were swept by the wind -down the ice-slope, only with the greatest difficulty -getting back to our sledge and companions.</p> - -<p>Bad, however, as that day was, and perilous as was -our position, we had said a glad farewell to that awful -plateau, and were on our way down the glacier.</p> - -<p>On the next day I harnessed up for a while, but so -bruised and battered was I by my falls that I soon had -to give up pulling and to content myself by walking by -the sledge. Fortunately we had a fair wind and a downhill -course, so my inability to pull was not an important -matter.</p> - -<p>The 24th saw us with only two days' food left and one -day's biscuit on much reduced ration, and we had to -cover forty miles of crevasses before we could reach our -next depot. Crevassed ice still added terribly to our -troubles, but though weak I had almost recovered from -my falls.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">- 149 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_149" style="width: 573px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_149.png" width="573" height="378" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Farthest South, January 9, 1909.</span> (<i>See page 146</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">- 150 -</span></p> - -<p>Continually we seemed to be fighting for the same -thing, to struggle on from one depot to the next to save -ourselves from starvation. A lunch of a cup of tea, two -biscuits, and two spoonsful of cheese does not make one -exactly buoyant to attack the march of the afternoon, -but by the 25th we were reduced to this, and at night -the food, with the exception of one meal, was completely -gone.</p> - -<p>No biscuit was left, and all we had to sustain us was -cocoa, tea, salt and pepper, and very little of these. On -that night we were very tired indeed, and we knew that -it was absolutely necessary for us to reach our depot -on the following day. By 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 26th we came to -the end of all our provisions except a little tea and cocoa, -and that day and the following one can never be erased -from our memories, for they were the hardest and the -most trying that any of us had ever spent in our -lives.</p> - -<p>From 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 26th till 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on the 27th we did -sixteen miles over the worst surfaces and most dangerous -crevasses we had encountered, only stopping for tea and -cocoa till they were finished, and marching twenty hours -at a stretch through snow 10 to 18 in. thick as a rule, -with sometimes 2½ ft. of it. Often and often we fell -into hidden crevasses, and were only saved by each other -and by our harness. No words of mine could bring -before you the mental and physical strain of those forty-eight -hours. I will only say that had not an all-merciful -Providence guided our steps we could never have arrived -safely at the depot.</p> - -<p>When we started at 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 26th we had no -biscuit left, and with only one pannikin of hoosh, mostly -pony-maize, and one of tea, we marched till noon. Then -we had another pannikin of tea and one ounce of chocolate -and marched till 4.45 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Having no food, we then -had another pannikin of tea and marched until 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">- 151 -</span> -when we had one small pannikin of cocoa. On again -after that until 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, when we were utterly played out -and slept until 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Then we had a pannikin of cocoa -and marched until 1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, when we camped about half -a mile from our depot.</p> - -<p>Both Adams and Wild had fallen exhausted in their -harness, but had recovered and gone on again. Marshall -went on to the depot for food, and at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we got the -meal we so desperately needed. And after this very -near call we turned in and slept, thankful indeed to have -escaped so far with our lives.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX<br /> -<span class="smaller">STRUGGLING BACK</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">At</span> last we were on the Barrier again, and with six days' -food and only fifty miles between us and our next supply -I thought that grave danger was behind us. But the man -who congratulates himself that anxieties and perils are -over, before he has reached the very end of his polar -exploration work is wasting his time.</p> - -<p>In our case Wild developed dysentery, the cause of -which we could only ascribe to the horse-meat; while -just before we left the glacier I broke through some soft -snow and plunged into a hidden crevasse. The harness -jerked up under my heart, and it seemed as though the -glacier were saying, "There is the last touch for you; -don't you come up here again!"</p> - -<p>Certainly we were as tired of that glacier as it apparently -was of us, and our joy at leaving it was tremendous; -for although the Barrier gave us a most unfriendly -greeting, we knew that a great many dangers were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">- 152 -</span> -over, and thought that nothing except blizzards and -thick weather were to be feared.</p> - -<p>The Barrier, however, did not mean to be beaten by -the glacier in the way of treating us harshly, for during -our first day on it we were attacked by a wind which -froze solidly all our wet clothes, and five minutes after -the wind had sprung up we were struck by a furious -blizzard of snow and heavy drift. Under the circumstances -we had to pitch our camp, and He in our bags, -patching our worn-out clothes—a rather tedious, if -useful, pursuit when one was literally aching to go on.</p> - -<p>During the following days there was a variety in -our misfortunes—a variety, indeed, which was so terribly -weakening that by the beginning of February our outlook -had become more serious than it had ever been.</p> - -<p>Dysentery had attacked all of us acutely; but if -there was a variety in our troubles, there was none in -our food, for we had only four miserably thin biscuits -a day to eke out our horse-meat.</p> - -<p>On February 2 we reached our next depot, and -started on the following day with a new sledge and -150 lb. more weight. But on that day all of us were -suffering from dysentery, and Wild was very bad indeed.</p> - -<p>On the 4th I wrote in my diary, "Cannot write more. -All down with acute dysentery; terrible day. No march -possible; outlook serious. Fine weather."</p> - -<p>It gives me joy now to think that, anxious and spent -as we were, trusting indeed to God to pull us through, -but too weary and weak to be very hopeful or to care -very much, we still hung on to the geological specimens -we had collected.</p> - -<p>By the 6th we were all better, but we were terribly -hungry, and six biscuits per day and one pannikin of -horse-meat each meal did nothing to enable us to regain -our strength. Indeed, my fear was that this incessant -hunger would weaken us so much that our return would -never be accomplished.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">- 153 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_153" style="width: 379px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_153.png" width="379" height="516" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Camp under the Granite Pillar, half a mile from the -Lower Glacier Depot, where the Party camped on January 27</span> -(<i>See page 151</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">- 154 -</span></p> - -<p>On the 7th Adams and Marshall were again attacked -by dysentery; and, though Wild and I were free of it, -all of us were pitiably weak. Still we struggled on, -starving for food, and talking about it all the time as we -advanced slowly towards the north.</p> - -<p>The mounds which we had laid on our way out continued -to guide us on our return, and were a great comfort, -but all our thoughts and our conversation were about -food. Wind and weather helped us through that desperate -time, or again in our weakened and starving condition -we could never have hoped to reach our next depot.</p> - -<p>Assisted, however, as we were, we reached the depot -on February 13 without a single particle of food left. -There we found poor old Chinaman's liver, and thought -it a dish that kings might envy. We looked round for -any spare bits of meat, and while I was digging in the -snow I came across some hard red stuff, which turned -out to be Chinaman's blood frozen into a solid core. -We dug it up, and in such straits were we that we found -it a most welcome addition to our food. When boiled -up, it seemed to us like beef-tea.</p> - -<p>Truly I was in luck in those days, for the fifteenth of -February was my birthday, and I was given a present -of a cigarette made out of pipe tobacco and some paper -we had with us. It tasted absolutely delicious.</p> - -<p>Those, however, were glad moments in a most distressing -time, for on the day following my smoke all of -us were again so appallingly hungry, and consequently -so weak, that even to lift our almost empty provision-bag -was an effort.</p> - -<p>When we broke camp in the morning we pulled the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">- 155 -</span> -tent off the poles and took it down before we moved -the things inside, for the effort of lifting anything through -the doorway was too much for us. At night we sometimes -had to lift our legs one at a time with both hands -in getting them into the tent, and after we had stiffened -from the day's march it seemed almost impossible to -lift our feet without assistance.</p> - -<p>On the 17th we had to march in a blinding blizzard, -with 42° of frost, but mercifully the wind was behind -us; and although the sledge with the sail up sometimes -overran us and sometimes, getting into a patch of soft -snow, brought us up with a jerk, we were thankful that -we had not to face such a wind. The jerks, however, -were very painful; for when we were brought up -suddenly, the harness round our weakened stomachs -hurt us very much indeed.</p> - -<p>All of us had tragic dreams of getting food to eat, -and with four men as hungry as we were, I can assure -you that it saves much envy if all of them finish their -meal at precisely the same moment. The man in our -party who managed to make his hoosh last longer than -the rest of us was not for the time being at all a popular -man.</p> - -<p>On the 18th we sighted Mount Discovery, and it seemed -to be a connecting link between us and our winter -quarters. Its big, bluff form showed out in the north-west, -and we felt that this same mountain might at the -very moment be drawing the eyes of our own people. -It looked like a reminder that there was still a place -called "home," and helped to cheer us on our painful -way.</p> - -<p>Mount Erebus was sighted on the following morning, -and if we had not come to the end of our supplies again, -except for some scraps of meat scraped off the bones of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">- 156 -</span> -Grisi after they had been lying on the snow and in the -sun for months, all would have been well. To eat these -however, was too great a risk until we were faced with -absolute and complete starvation, and on the following day -we hoped to reach Depot A.</p> - -<p>Calls to breakfast had long since been things of the -past. The cook of the day no longer said, "Come on -boys; good hoosh," for no good hoosh was to be had -and in less time than it has taken me to write this out -food was finished, and then our hopes and thought -lay wholly in the direction of the next feed, so called -from force of habit.</p> - -<p>On the 20th we were impeded by such a bad light -that we could only see a little way; but by 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we -reached Depot A, at which was the tin of jam that we -had originally intended to eat on Christmas Day—and -never did jam taste more delightful! Our depoted -tobacco and cigarettes were also there, and apart from -the intense enjoyment of a good smoke, I felt sure that -tobacco would make up for the shortage of food until -we reached the Bluff depot. This last depot was the one -which I had told Joyce to lay out, and which was the one -ray of hope in front of us during these days of hunger -and disease.</p> - -<p>At any rate, we had to stake upon finding provisions -at the Bluff, for we had not food enough to carry us back -to the ship. In fact, if we did not find it we were lost men -Each time we took in another hole in our belts we said -that everything would be all right as soon as the Bluff -was reached, and so eager were we to reach the good -things in store for us that on the 21st we struggled on -through a blizzard with as many as 67° of frost.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">- 157 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_157" style="width: 575px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_157.png" width="575" height="368" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Shackleton standing by the broken Southern Sledge, which was replaced by another -at the Grisi Depot</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">- 158 -</span></p> - -<p>In ordinary polar work no one would think of travelling -in such weather, but our need was extreme and we had -to keep on going. Food lay ahead and death stalked us -from behind. We were so thin that our bones ached as -we lay on the hard snow in our sleeping-bags. Was it to -be wondered at that, blizzard or no blizzard, we were -determined to struggle forward until we dropped?</p> - -<p>And on the 22nd we had a splendid day, and came -across the tracks of men with dogs, which assured us -that the depot had been laid all right. Soon afterwards -we passed their noon camp, and as tins were lying round -which had different brands from those of the original -stores, we were certain also that the ship had returned.</p> - -<p>After carefully searching the ground for unconsidered -trifles, we found three small bits of chocolate and a tiny -bit of biscuit, and we "turned backs" for them. I was -unlucky enough to get the biscuit, and a curious and -unreasoning anger took possession of me for a moment -at my bad luck. Nothing could show more strikingly -how primitive we had become, and how much the question -of even a morsel of food affected our judgment.</p> - -<p>However, we were near to the Bluff, but though we -felt certain that food was going to be there in plenty, we -also were occasionally beset by the thought that if by -some chance it was not, then all chance of our safety was -at an end.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE FINAL STAGE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> on the morning of the 23rd we broke camp, and -in a few hours Wild saw the Bluff depot miraged up. It -seemed to be quite close, and the flags were waving -and dancing, as though to say, "Come, here I am; -come and feed!"</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">- 159 -</span></p> - -<p>It was indeed a cheerful sight for weary and hungry -men, and directly we saw it we devoured the few biscuits -we still possessed.</p> - -<p>At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we reached this haven, and found that -Joyce and his party had done their work splendidly; -and I, climbing to the top of it, told those below of the -glorious feeds awaiting us. Luxuries there were in plenty: -Carlsbad plums, cakes, eggs, plum puddings, and even -fresh boiled mutton from the ship. Apart, however, -from these luxuries there was an ample supply of ordinary -sledging rations, so that we were safe from a want of -food, and had only to get back to the ship.</p> - -<p>With what thankfulness we set upon our provisions -those who have not suffered from want and hunger -cannot imagine. Suddenly we found ourselves with -meals fit for the gods, and with appetites that the gods -might have envied. Our contracted bodies, however, -would not stand the strain of much food, but I cannot -express the relief it was to know that we had only to -stretch our hands to touch food, even if we could not -eat it. I lay writing in my bag that night with biscuits -and chocolate and jam beside me. I dare say this reminds -the reader of a greedy schoolboy; but it is true, and I -see no reason to think that it was anything but perfectly -natural.</p> - -<p>At the Bluff we did not receive much news of the -<i>Nimrod</i>, except that Evans, who had towed us down -in the <i>Koonya</i>, was now in command of it; and we -heard nothing of either the northern or the western -party.</p> - -<p>Now our main object was to get back to the ship -before she was compelled to sail, and full of hope we -proceeded on our way during the 24th.</p> - -<p>On the following day, however, Marshall was attacked -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">- 160 -</span> -by paralysis of the stomach and renewed dysentery, -and as a blizzard was blowing we decided to lie in our -bags and wait. These misfortunes were particularly -distressing, for it was absolutely necessary to push on -if we were to catch the <i>Nimrod</i>. According to orders, -the ship might very possibly leave on March 1 if the -Sound was not clear of ice, and we had already arrived -at February 26 in a year which unhappily was not Leap -Year.</p> - -<p>On the 26th we did manage to do twenty-four miles, -but although Marshall never complained, he suffered -severely, and as his dysentery was getting worse and -worse, I decided, on the afternoon of the 27th, to leave -him in the care of Adams, and to push ahead with -Wild.</p> - -<p>My hope was that we should pick up a relief party at -the ship, and so we hurried on with no sleep and with -the briefest stoppages for meals, until we had been -marching for nearly twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>By this time our food was finished, and naturally we -were very tired, but although we kept on flashing the -heliograph in the hope of attracting attention from -Observation Hill, where I thought a party would be' on -the look-out, there was no return flash.</p> - -<p>Still, there was nothing to do except to push ahead, -and once we thought that we saw a party coming over -to meet us, but to our sorrow the "party" turned out -to be a group of penguins at the ice edge.</p> - -<p>At 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we sighted open water ahead, but the -weather had suddenly become so thick that it was -impossible to see far, and our arrival at the ice edge was -quite sudden and unexpected. The ice was swaying up -and down so warningly that to continue on that course -was to run grave risk of being carried out, so we decided -to follow another route, seven miles round by the other -side of Castle Rock.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">- 161 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_161" style="width: 534px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_161.png" width="534" height="403" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Return journey of the Southern Party: at the Bluff Depot.</span> (<i>See page 159</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">- 162 -</span></p> - -<p>At last, after what seemed a never-ending struggle, -we reached Castle Rock, from whence we could see that -there was open water all round the north. Indeed, it -was a different home-coming from the one we had -anticipated.</p> - -<p>Often on the Barrier and up on the plateau our -thoughts had turned to the day when we should return -to winter quarters, but never had we imagined that we -should have to fight our way to the back door, so to -speak, in such a cheerless fashion.</p> - -<p>At 7.45 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we reached the top of Ski Slope, and from -there both the hut and the bay could be seen. But no -sign of the ship could we find, and no trace of life could -be seen at the hut.</p> - -<p>With our minds full of gloomy possibilities, we hurried -on to the hut, and discovered that every one had gone -away.</p> - -<p>A letter had been left for us stating that all the parties -had been picked up except ours, and that the ship would -be sheltering under Glacier Tongue until February 26. -As it was already February 28 there is no need to say -how distressed we were at this new development of the -situation. For if the ship was gone, both the plight of -the two men out on the Barrier and of ourselves was a -most serious one.</p> - -<p>That was a bad night for Wild and myself, for although -we were able to have a good meal, we had left our -sleeping-bags behind, and had to wrap pieces of roofing-felt -round us in our attempts to keep warm. Our efforts -were neither successful in that direction nor in that of -trying to signal for help. For we could not get the -magnetic hut to light, and we were so tired and cold -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">- 163 -</span> -that when we endeavoured to tie up the Union Jack on -the hill the knots were too much for us.</p> - -<p>In the morning, however, we managed to make both -of these signals, and all our fears vanished with one -glad swoop when we saw the ship in the distance.</p> - -<p>At 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 1 we were once more on board -the <i>Nimrod</i>, and I will not attempt to describe the -load which was suddenly lifted from my shoulders, or -the reception we received from our friends who had -given us up for lost, and who on that same day were -going to send out a search-party in the hope of finding -some traces of us.</p> - -<p>The ship brought us nothing but good news from the -outside world, and I found that every member of the -Expedition was well, and that the work laid down had -been accomplished.</p> - -<p>The immediate thing, however, to do was not to -delay over these splendid reports, but to bring in Adams -and Marshall; and in the afternoon I started off again -from the Barrier edge with Mackay, Mawson and -McGillan, leaving Wild on the <i>Nimrod</i>.</p> - -<p>We found that Marshall's health had been improved -by the rest, but the march renewed the attack, -and it was with feelings of great relief that we at -length got him back to winter quarters and put him to -bed.</p> - -<p>By 1 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 4 we were all once more safe on -board the <i>Nimrod</i>; but Adams, after surviving all the -dangers of the interior of the Antarctic continent, was -nearly lost within sight of safety. Owing to the fact -that he was wearing new finnesko he slipped at the -ice edge, and only just managed to save himself from -going over, and to hang on until he was rescued -by a party from the ship. He had begun with a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">- 164 -</span> -painful accident and nearly finished with a fatal -one.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Southern Party were in safety once more, but how -often and often we were almost hopeless of ever making -our way back to the ship I cannot say. We had taken -our lives in our own hands, and God had preserved them. -Perils from starvation, disease, and sudden death had -surrounded us, and as we had learned to know what it -is to suffer and to endure, we had also learned what it -is to feel supremely grateful for mercy and for guidance.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI<br /> -<span class="smaller">NOTES ON THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> brought back with us from our march towards the -Pole vivid memories of how to feel intensely, fiercely -hungry.</p> - -<p>From November 15, 1908, until February 23, 1909, we -had but one full meal on Christmas Day, and even then -scarcely any time had passed before we were as hungry -as ever. Our daily allowance of food would have been -a small one for a city worker in a temperate climate, and -in our own case hunger was increased by the fact that -we were performing vigorous labour in a very low temperature.</p> - -<p>When our evening meal was prepared we used to -"turn backs" in order to ensure fair divisions of the food. -The cook used to pour the hoosh into pannikins and -arrange the biscuits in four heaps, and as soon as we were -all satisfied that the divisions were equal one man would -turn his back, and another, pointing at one lot, would say -"Whose?"</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">- 165 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_165" style="width: 500px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_165.png" width="500" height="375" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Southern Party on board the "Nimrod." Left to right: Wild, Shackleton, -Marshall, Adams.</span> (<i>See page 164</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">- 166 -</span></p> - -<p>Then the man with his back turned would mention a -name, and so the distribution proceeded, each of us -feeling sure that the smallest share had fallen to -his lot.</p> - -<p>On alternate days we had chocolate and cheese for -lunch, and since the former was more satisfying and -easier to divide we infinitely preferred it. Considering -how greatly we depended during our march upon pony-meat, -the reader will readily understand that the loss of -Socks was a terrible blow to us.</p> - -<p>If we had been able to use poor Socks for food there -is no doubt that we should have been able to get further -south, and perhaps even have reached the Pole itself. -But I must also mention that had we managed to -get to the Pole, we could scarcely have caught the ship -before she was compelled to leave by the approach of -winter.</p> - -<p>During the last weeks of the journey outwards, and -the long march back when our allowance had been -reduced to twenty ounces per man a day, I confess without -one atom of shame that we really thought of little -but food. Man becomes very primitive when he is -desperately hungry, and neither the glory of the -mountains that towered high on our sides, nor the majesty -of the great glacier up which we travelled so painfully, -appealed to any extent to our emotions.</p> - -<p>I used often to find myself wondering whether people -who suffer from hunger in the big cities of civilisation felt -as we were feeling, and I concluded that they did not, for -no barrier of law and order would have been allowed to -stand between us and any food that had been available. -The difference must be that the man who starves in a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">- 167 -</span> -city is weakened and hopeless and without spirit while -we—until nearly the end—were vigorous and keen.</p> - -<p>We could not joke about food in any way that is possible -for the man who is hungry in the ordinary sense. True -we thought and talked about it most of the time, but -always in the most serious manner.</p> - -<p>On the outward march we were not severely hungry -until we reached the great glacier, and then we were so -occupied with the dangers of climbing and of crossing -crevasses that we were unable to talk much. And afterwards -on the plateau our faces were generally so covered -with ice that unnecessary conversation was out of the -question.</p> - -<p>It was on the march back, after we had got down the -glacier, and were tramping over the Barrier surface that -we talked freely of food. Strange feelings, indeed, did I -have when I looked back over our notes, and saw the -wonderful meals that we promised to eat when we could -get inside a really good restaurant.</p> - -<p>We used to tell each other, with perfect seriousness, -about the new dishes that we had thought of, and if the -dish met with general approval there would be a chorus -of "Ah! That's good."</p> - -<p>The "Wild roll" was admitted to be the high-water -mark of gastronomic luxury. He proposed that the -cook should take a supply of well-seasoned minced meat, -wrap it in rashers of fat bacon, and place around the -whole an outer covering of rich pastry so that it would -take the form of a big sausage-roll. Then this roll was -to be fried with plenty of fat.</p> - -<p>My best dish, which I admit I put forward with a good -deal of pride as we marched over the snow, was a sardine -pasty. And I remember that one day Marshall came -forward with a proposal for a thick roll of suet pudding -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">- 168 -</span> -with plenty of jam all over it, and there arose quite a -heated argument whether he could claim this dish to be -an invention, or whether it was not the jam roll already -known to the housewives of civilisation.</p> - -<p>One point there was on which we were all agreed, and -that was our wish not to have any jellies or things of that -sort at our future meals. The idea of eating such slippery -stuff as jelly did not appeal in the least to any one of us.</p> - -<p>Perhaps all this sounds very greedy and uncivilised -to anyone who has never been on the verge of starvation, -but I wish to say again that hunger makes a man primitive. -Not a smile broke from us as we planned wonderful -feats of over-eating, in truth we were intensely serious -about the matter, and we noted down in the back pages -of our diaries details of feasts we would have when we got -back to the land of plenty.</p> - -<p>The dysentery from which we suffered was certainly -due to the meat from the pony Grisi. This animal was -shot when greatly fatigued, and I think that his flesh was -poisoned by the presence of the poison of exhaustion, as -is the case with animals that have been hunted. The -manner in which we contrived to continue marching -when suffering, and the speed with which we recovered -when we got good food, were rather remarkable, and the -reason doubtless was that the dysentery was due to -poison, and was not produced by organic trouble.</p> - -<p>Providentially we had a strong wind behind us during -that period of distress and this assuredly saved us, for -in our weakened state we could not have made long -marches against a head-wind, and without long marches -we would have starved between the depots.</p> - -<p>In the early part of the journey over the level Barrier -surface we felt the heat of the sun severely, although the -temperature was very low. It was quite usual to feel -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">- 169 -</span> -one side of the face getting frozen while the other side -was being sunburnt. Later on when our strength had -begun to lessen, we found great difficulty in hoisting the -sail on our sledge, because when we lifted our arms over -our heads to adjust the sail, the blood ran from our fingers -and they promptly froze. Our troubles with frost-bite -were doubtless due partly to the lightness of our clothing, -but there was compensation for this in the greater speed -with which we were able to travel.</p> - -<p>I am convinced that men engaged in polar exploration -should be clothed as lightly as possible, even if they are -in danger of being frost-bitten when they halt on the -march. We owe many grudges against the glacier which -caused us so many difficulties, but my chief one now is -that we brought back no photographs of a very interesting -portion of it. This was due to the facts that we expected -to take as many photographs as we had plates to spare -on our return journey, and that when we returned we -were so short of food that we could not afford the time -to unpack the camera.</p> - -<p>The glacier itself presented every variety of surface, -from soft snow to cracked and riven blue ice, but later -the only constant feature were the crevasses, from which -we were never free.</p> - -<p>Some were entirely covered with a crust of soft snow, -and we discovered them only when one of us broke -through and hung by his harness from the sledge. Others -occurred in mazes of rotten ice, and were even more -difficult to negotiate than the other sort. The sledges, -owing to their length, were not liable to slip down a -crevasse, and when we were securely attached to them -by their harness we felt fairly safe, but when the surface -was so bad that relay work was necessary we used to miss -the support of a sledge on the back journeys.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">- 170 -</span></p> - -<p>We would advance one sledge half a mile or a mile, -put up a bamboo pole to mark the spot, and then go back -for the other. For the walk back we were always roped -together, but even then we felt a great deal less secure -than when harnessed to one of the long, heavy sledges.</p> - -<p>One piece—or two pieces—of fortune we assuredly did -have upon the glacier, for both when we were struggling -up and scrambling down it the wind was behind us. -But on the glacier we were often troubled at night by -the fact that there was no snow on which to pitch our -tent, and consequently when we were weary after the -day's march an hour had frequently to be spent in smoothing -out a space for the camp on a rippled, sharp-pointed -sea of ice.</p> - -<p>The provision bags and sledges were packed on the -snow cloths round the tents and it was indeed fortunate -for us that we met no bad weather while we were marching -up the glacier. Had a blizzard come on while we were -asleep, it would have scattered our goods far and wide, -and we would have been faced with a most serious -situation.</p> - -<p>The upper glacier depot was overhung by great cliffs -of rock, shattered by the frosts and storms of countless -centuries, and many fragments were poised in such a -fashion that scarcely more than a touch seemed necessary -to bring them hurtling down. All around us on the ice -lay rocks that had recently fallen, and it was not a comforting -sensation to feel that at any moment a huge -boulder might drop upon our camp.</p> - -<p>We had no choice of a camping-ground, as all around -was rough ice. The cliffs were composed largely of -weathered sandstone, and it was on the same mountain -higher up on the glacier that Wild discovered coal, at a -point where the slope was comparatively gentle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">- 171 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_171" style="width: 568px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_171.png" width="568" height="390" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The "Nimrod" pushing through heavy Pack Ice on her way South.</span> (<i>See page 174</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">- 172 -</span></p> - -<p>One of our greatest disappointments was that the -last ridge of the great glacier having been passed and -the actual plateau gained, we did not meet with a hard -surface, such as the <i>Discovery</i> expedition had encountered -in the journey to the plateau beyond the west of McMurdo -Sound, but still had to battle with soft snow and hard -sastrugi.</p> - -<p>After the fierce blizzard which raged from the night -of January 6 until the morning of January 9, we had -better conditions under which to make our final march -southwards, for the wind had swept away the soft snow -and unencumbered with the sledge we could advance -more easily.</p> - -<p>In reviewing the experience gained on the southern -journey, I do not think that I could suggest any important -improvements in equipment for future expeditions. -Evidently the Barrier surface varies remarkably, and the -traveller must be prepared for either a very hard or a -very soft surface, both of which he may encounter in the -same day's march.</p> - -<p>On the glacier we should have been glad to have had -heavy Alpine boots with nails all round, but as the -temperature is too cold to permit of the explorer wearing -ordinary leather boots, some boot would have to be -designed which was at once warm enough for the feel -and strong enough to carry the nails.</p> - -<p>Our clothing proved to be quite satisfactory, but -experience goes to show that a party which hopes to -reach the Pole must take more food per man than we did -I would in no case take cheese again, for chocolate is -more palatable and easier to divide.</p> - -<p>Each member of our Southern Party had his own -particular duties to perform, Adams being responsible -for the meteorological observations which involved—among -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">- 173 -</span> -other duties—the taking of temperatures at -regular intervals. Marshall took the meridian altitudes, -and the angles and bearings of all the new land, and his -work was most discomforting, for at the end of a day's -march and often at lunch-time as well, he would be -compelled to stand in the biting wind handling the screws -of the theodolite. He also prepared the map of the -journey and took most of the photographs.</p> - -<p>Wild attended to the repair of the sledges and equipment, -and also assisted me in the geological observations -and the collection of specimens. My other work was to -keep the courses and distances, and to work out observations -and lay down our directions.</p> - -<p>I kept two diaries, one my observation book, and the -other a narrative diary. But although all of us kept -diaries we were more often than I care to remember -too spent and cold at night to pay much attention to -them.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE RETURN OF THE "NIMROD"</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the winter the <i>Nimrod</i> had been laid up in -Port Lyttelton, and had been thoroughly overhauled so -that she should once more be ready to battle with the ice. -Captain F. P. Evans had been appointed master of the -ship under my power of attorney, Captain England having -resigned on account of ill-health, and towards the end -of the year sufficient stores were taken on board to -provide for a party staying at Cape Royds through the -winter, in case one of the sledging-parties had not returned, -and also to provide for the ship if she herself was frozen -up.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">- 174 -</span></p> - -<p>The <i>Nimrod</i> left Lyttelton again on December 1, 1908, -and enjoyed fine weather for the voyage southwards, -the experience of Captain Evans on this voyage going to -show that, under normal conditions, the pack that -stretches out from the Barrier to the eastward of the -Ross Sea is impenetrable, and that the <i>Discovery</i> was -able to push to within sight of King Edward VII Land -in 1902 because the ice was unusually open during that -season. Twenty-eight miles from Cape Royds fast ice -was encountered, and as there seemed to be no immediate -possibility of the ship being able to proceed, Captain -Evans decided to send Mackintosh with three men to -convey a mail-bag to the winter quarters. No very great -difficulties were anticipated for this expedition, but as -it turned out, not only difficulties but also dangers and -almost death were to be met with.</p> - -<p>On January 3 Mackintosh set out with McGillan, -Riches and Paton, but in the afternoon Riches and Paton -returned to the ship and Mackintosh and McGillan -proceeded alone.</p> - -<p>On the second day their way was blocked by open water -with pressure ice floating past, and although they walked -for two hours in a westerly direction to see how far the -water reached, they did not get to the end of it. The -whole of the ice to the southward seemed to be moving, -and as the open water seemed to take away any possibility -of reaching Cape Royds, they started back to the -ship.</p> - -<p>Presently Mackintosh discovered that there was also -open water ahead of them, blocking the way to the -ship, and a survey of the position revealed the unpleasant -fact that the floe-ice was breaking up altogether, and -that they were in serious danger of drifting out into the -Sound. Safety lay only in a hurried dash for the shore -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">- 175 -</span> -to the east, and every two hundred yards or so they had -to drag their sledge to the edge of a floe, jump over a -lane of water, and then with a big effort pull the sledge -after them.</p> - -<p>After an hour of this work their hands were cut and -bleeding, and their clothes were frozen as stiff as boards, -for they had frequently slipped and fallen when crossing -from floe to floe. At last, however, they approached the -land, and came to a piece of glacier ice that formed a -bridge. The floe that they were on was moving rapidly, -so they had to make a great effort and drag the sledge -over a six-foot breach. They succeeded in doing this -and were in a safe position again, but had they been fifteen -minutes later they would have been lost, for by that time -there was open water where they had gained the land.</p> - -<p>Near this spot they decided to camp, and McGillan -was almost at once so badly attacked by snow-blindness -that his face was badly swollen and his eyes tightly -closed. So bad indeed was McGillan that, until Mackintosh -could bear the pain no longer in silence, he did not know -that his companion was suffering from the same complaint -as himself.</p> - -<p>For several days they stayed in camp, and when their -eyes were better they studied the bird-life of the neighbourhood, -until, tired of seeing no sign of the ship. -Mackintosh decided that they would leave the heavy -mail-bag in their tent and march to Cape Royds. Then -followed one of those battles against crevasses and hidden -dangers with which those who take part in polar exploration -are too intimately acquainted. Once McGillan fell -into a yawning chasm and was only held up on a projection -of ice, and frequently one slip would have meant -the end of all things in this world for both of them.</p> - -<p>At last a point was reached at which their way was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">- 176 -</span> -blocked in every direction by crevasses, ascent was no -longer possible, and below them lay a steep slope running -down for about 300 ft. What lay at the bottom they -could not tell, but their case was desperate and they -decided to glissade down.</p> - -<p>Their knives, which they attempted to use as brakes, -were torn from their grasp, but they managed to keep -their heels in the snow and to reach the bottom in safety.</p> - -<p>Hunger had seized them for they had practically no -food left, but two hours after they had dashed down the -slope they could see Cape Royds and hoped soon to be -at the winter quarters.</p> - -<p>Immediately afterwards, however, such thick snow -began to fall that they could not see two yards ahead, -and for hours they were stumbling along in the blinding -storm. Occasionally they rested for a few minutes, but -icicles hung from their faces, and they did not dare to -stay still for long.</p> - -<p>Heavy snow continued to cut off all view of the surrounding -country, and they had been wandering for -twenty-seven hours after their glissade, when Day found -them in a state of complete exhaustion, and just staggering -along because they knew that to stop meant death. -Had not Day been outside the hut—to which the travellers -had no idea they were close—watching for the return -of the ship, that expedition, undertaken so light-heartedly, -must almost certainly have been a fatal one to Mackintosh -and McGillan.</p> - -<p>The two weary men reached the hut on January 12, -but a week before that date the <i>Nimrod</i> had arrived at -Cape Royds, and had gone north again to search for -them. Doomed to disappointment and horror were the -men at the hut when they learned that not only were -they not to have any letters, but that also Mackintosh -and McGillan had left the ship on the 3rd to try to bring -the letters more quickly over the sea-ice and over the -bay, which even then was filled with loose pack and -which a few days before had been open water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">- 177 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_177" style="width: 577px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_177.png" width="577" height="379" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The "Nimrod" held up in the Ice.</span> (<i>See page 178</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">- 178 -</span></p> - -<p>On January 7 the <i>Nimrod</i> left Cape Royds again to -seek for the lost men, and in a few hours was beset by -ice, and so remained for practically the whole of the -time between the 7th and the 15th. On the afternoon -of the 16th, however, the ship cleared the ice, and -approached the only piece of shore on which there was -a chance of finding Mackintosh and McGillan. Near the -end of a stretch of beach a small patch of greenish colour -was seen, and the telescope revealed the details of a -deserted camp and a tent torn to ribbons. A boat was -at once sent ashore, and the bag of letters was discovered, -and also a note from Mackintosh telling of his risky -attempt to cross the mountains.</p> - -<p>As Murray, who was on the ship, knew the frightfully -crevassed character of the ground which Mackintosh and -McGillan had determined to cross, little hope of their -safety remained.</p> - -<p>Judge, then, the joy of those on board the <i>Nimrod</i> -when two men came out to meet the ship on its arrival -at Cape Royds, and one of them was seen to be McGillan.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII">CHAPTER XXXIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE WESTERN PARTY</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">How</span> well Joyce and his party, consisting of Mackintosh, -Day and Martin, placed a depot of stores about fourteen -miles off Minna Bluff, and how glad the Southern Party -were to find them there has already been told.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">- 179 -</span></p> - -<p>In the depoting of these stores Joyce made two journeys, -starting for the first from winter quarters on January 15 -and returning to Hut Point on January 31, and leaving -there again with a second load of stores (which had been -brought by a party from the <i>Nimrod</i>) and reaching the -Bluff Depot for the second time on February 8.</p> - -<p>On their re-arrival at this depot they found, to their surprise, -that the Southern Party had not appeared, and for -some days Joyce and his companions searched the horizon -with glasses, in the hope of sighting the overdue travellers.</p> - -<p>They waited until the Southern Party was eleven days -after the time fixed for their return, and then decided to -lay a depot flag in towards the Bluff so that by no chance -could the food be missed, and, secondly, to march due -south to look for the Southern Party. In this march -they were, as is known, unsuccessful in finding the weary -travellers, and eventually they returned to the Bluff -Depot and found everything as they had left it.</p> - -<p>Filled with gloomy thoughts as to the fate of Adams, -Marshall, Wild and myself—for we were then eighteen -days overdue—they started on the 16th to march back -to the coast. But although they did not find us, they had -nevertheless saved our lives by the provisions they had -so laboriously brought to the depot.</p> - -<p>At the same time that we of the Southern Party were -fighting our way towards the Pole, the Western Party, -consisting of Armytage, Priestley and Brocklehurst, -were working in the western mountains.</p> - -<p>On December 9 they left winter quarters and reached -the "stranded moraines" four days later. These moraines, -which were found by the <i>Discovery</i> expedition, are relics -of the days of more extensive glaciation, and as they -present a most varied collection of rocks they are of -very great interest.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">- 180 -</span></p> - -<p>There the party succeeded in securing a large number -of skuas' eggs, but the anticipated feast was not enjoyed, -for, to quote the words of one of the expedition, only -about a dozen of the eggs were "good enough for eating." -The other eggs were thrown on the snow near the tent, -with the result that there was an invasion of skuas, the -birds not only eating the eggs but also making themselves -a nuisance by pulling about the sledge-harness -and the stores. Geological specimens this party secured -in valuable abundance, and, as was the case with the -other sledging expeditions that were out at the time, a -special feast was provided for Christmas Day.</p> - -<p>That Priestley enjoyed this feast is shown by his diary, -in which he wrote, "The plum pudding was 'top-hole.' -Must remember to give one of the pot-holed sandstones -to Wild for the New Zealand girl who gave him the -plum pudding."</p> - -<p>This party were on the look-out for the men who had -gone north in search of the Magnetic Pole, but failing to -find any sign of them, they went back to their depot -on January 14 and pitched camp to wait for the Northern -Party until the 25th, when they were either to make their -way back to winter quarters or to signal for the ship by -means of the heliograph.</p> - -<p>On the 24th, however, this party had the narrowest -escape from never seeing either winter quarters or the -<i>Nimrod</i> again. They were camped on the sea-ice at the -foot of Butter Point, in a position which to all appearances -was one of safety. Armytage indeed had examined the -tide-crack along the shore and had found no signs of -more than ordinary movement, and the ice all round -seemed to be quite fast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">- 181 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_181" style="width: 510px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_181.png" width="510" height="378" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Bluff Depot.</span> (<i>See page 179</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">- 182 -</span></p> - -<p>But early in the morning of the 24th, Priestley, who -was first out of the tent, abruptly dispelled any feelings -of security that his companions possessed. At once he -discovered that the ice they were on had broken away -and was drifting north to the open sea, and, returning to -tell the others, they immediately turned out, to find -that this statement was only too true. Two miles of -open water already intervened between the floe and the -shore, and they were to all appearances moving steadily -out.</p> - -<p>"When," Armytage wrote in his report, "we found -that the ice had gone out, we loaded up the sledge and -started to see whether we could get off the floe to the -north. The position seemed to be rather serious, for we -could not hope to cross any stretch of open water, there -was no reasonable chance of assistance from the ship, -and most of our food was at Butter Point. We had not -gone very far to the north when we came to an impassable -lane of open water, and we decided to return to our original -position. We went into camp and had breakfast at -11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>"</p> - -<p>After that the three men waited for some time on the -off-chance of the ship coming along one of the lanes and -picking them up, or of the current changing and the ice -once more touching the shore, but at the end of four -anxious hours there was no improvement in their position. -Killer-whales were spouting in the channels, and occasionally -bumping the ice under the floe.</p> - -<p>Unable to wait any longer, the party marched right -round the floe but met with open water in every direction, -and at 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> they were back in their old position, only -encouraged by the fact that they had apparently stopped -moving north, and were possibly getting a little nearer -to fast ice again.</p> - -<p>Soon afterwards Brocklehurst turned out to see if the -position had changed, and reported that the floe seemed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">- 183 -</span> -to be within a few hundred yards of the fast ice, and was -still moving in that direction. Then Armytage got up, -and half an hour later saw that the floe was only about -two hundred yards off fast ice.</p> - -<p>"I ran back," he reported, "as fast as I could, deciding -that there was a prospect of an attempt to get ashore -proving successful, and gave the other two men a -shout.</p> - -<p>They struck camp and loaded up within a few minutes, -while I went back to the edge of the floe at the spot -towards which chance had first directed my steps. Just -as the sledge got up to me I felt the floe bump the fast -ice. Not more than six feet of the edge touched, but we -were just at that spot, and we rushed over the bridge -thus formed. We had only just got over when the floe -moved away again, and this time it went north to the -open sea. The only place at which it touched the fast -ice was that to which I had gone when I left the tent, -and had I happened to go to any other spot we would -not have escaped."</p> - -<p>After this Providential deliverance from a perilous -situation, the party made their way back to Butter -Point and camped about 3 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>; and when they got up -some hours later open water was to be seen where they -had been drifting on the floe, and also the <i>Nimrod</i> was -sighted some miles out.</p> - -<p>The heliograph was flashed to the vessel, and in the -afternoon the party—having left a depot of provisions -and oil at Butter Point in case the northern travellers -should arrive there—were safe on board again.</p> - -<p>Towards' the end of January fine weather was very -rare, for the season was advanced, and consequently the -fast ice remaining in the Sound began to break up quickly -and took the form of pack trending northwards.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">- 184 -</span></p> - -<p>The waiting for the other parties to come in was -unpleasant for the remaining members of the shore-party -and for those on board the ship, because the time -was approaching when the <i>Nimrod</i> must either leave -for the north or be frozen in for the winter. And still -both the Southern and the Northern Parties tarried.</p> - -<p>Instructions had been left that if the Northern Party -had not returned by February 1, a search was to be made -along the western coast in a northerly direction. This -party by that time was three weeks overdue, and so -Captain Evans proceeded north with the <i>Nimrod</i> on -the 1st, and began closely to examine the coast. This -search was both dangerous and difficult, for Captain -Evans had to keep near to the coast, in order to guard -against the chance of missing any signal, and the sea -was obstructed by pack-ice. The work, however, was -done most thoroughly in the face of what Captain Evans -afterwards described as "small navigational difficulties."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIV">CHAPTER XXXIV<br /> -<span class="smaller">INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NORTHERN PARTY</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Northern Party, which consisted of Professor David, -Douglas Mawson, and Alistair Mackay, was under the -command of the Professor, and the tale of their adventures -will be related by himself. But before the party -set out upon this important expedition I gave final -instructions to them, an extract from which is given.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">- 185 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_185" style="width: 577px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_185.png" width="577" height="376" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Motor hauling Stores for a Depot.</span> (<i>See page 188</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">- 186 -</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"Dear Sir," I wrote to the Professor, "you will -leave winter quarters on or about October 1, 1908. The -main objects of your journey to be as follows:</p> - -<p>"(1) To take magnetic observations at every suitable -point, in order to determine the dip and position -of the Magnetic Pole; and if time, equipment, and -supplies are sufficient, you will try to reach the Magnetic -Pole.</p> - -<p>"(2) To make a general geological survey of the -coast of Victoria Land; this work, however, is not to -interfere with your attempt to reach the Pole.</p> - -<p>"(3) I particularly wish you to be able, to work at -the geology of the Western Mountains, and for Mawson -to spend at least a fortnight at Dry Valley to prospect -for minerals of economic value on your return from the -north. I do not wish to limit you to an exact date for -return to Dry Valley, if you think that by lengthening -your stay up north you can reach the Magnetic Pole; -but I consider that the thorough investigation of this -valley is of supreme importance.</p> - -<p>"(4) The <i>Nimrod</i> is expected in the Sound about -January 15, 1909. If the ship is not in, or if she does -not see your signals, you will take into account your -supply of provisions, and proceed either to Glacier -Tongue or Hut Point to replenish, if you have not sufficient -provisions at Butter Point.</p> - -<p>"(5) At Butter Point a depot of at least fourteen days' -food and oil will be laid for you.</p> - -<p>"(6) I shall leave instructions for the master of the -Nimrod to proceed to the most accessible point at the -west coast and there ship all your specimens.</p> - -<p>"(7) If by February 1, after the arrival of the <i>Nimrod</i>, -there is no evidence that your party has returned, the -Nimrod will proceed north along the coast, looking out -for your signals.</p> - -<p>"(8) Should any accident happen to you, Mawson is -to be in charge of the party.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">- 187 -</span></p> - -<p>"(9) Trusting that you will have a successful journey -and a safe return,</p> -</div> - -<p style="margin-left: 20em;"> -"I am, yours faithfully,<br /> -"(Signed) <span class="smcap">Ernest H. Shackleton.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">"<i>Commander.</i>"</span><br /> -</p> - - -<p>In addition to these instructions, I also wrote to the -Professor:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Dear Sir,</span>—If you reach the Magnetic Pole, you -will hoist the Union Jack on the spot, and take possession -of it on behalf of the above expedition for the British -nation.</p> - -<p>"When you are in the Western Mountains, please -do the same at one place, taking possession of Victoria -Land as part of the British Empire.</p> - -<p>"If economic minerals are found, take possession of -the area in the same way on my behalf as commander -of this expedition.</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 20em;"> -"Yours faithfully,<br /> -"(Signed) <span class="smcap">Ernest H. Shackleton.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">"<i>Commander.</i>"</span><br /> -</p> -</div> - -<p>This letter was dated September 20, 1908, and on -that same night we gave a farewell dinner to the -Northern Party.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXV">CHAPTER XXXV<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE NARRATIVE OF PROFESSOR DAVID<br /> -WE START FOR THE MAGNETIC POLE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> first thing to be done in connection with our attempt -to reach the Magnetic Pole was to lay depots, and so -on September 25, after delay from bad weather, Priestley,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">- 188 -</span> -Day and I (David) started in the motor-car, dragging -behind us two sledges over the ice.</p> - -<p>One sledge with its load weighed 606 lb., the other -250 lb., and as soon as Day put the car on her second -gear we sped over the floe-ice at a rate of fourteen miles -an hour, much to the admiration of the seals and penguins. -Accidents, however, both to the car and to Day, who -alone of us could be trusted to drive it, hindered us from -making our final start until October 5. On that day -Brocklehurst took a photograph of the Northern Party -and soon afterwards we boarded the car and the sledges -and, cheered by those remaining behind, proceeded on -our way.</p> - -<p>At first Day, Priestley and Roberts accompanied us, -but we had only gone a little over two miles, when the -snow had become so thick that I did not think it prudent -to take the car farther, and accordingly we had to say -good-bye to our companions. Strapping on our harness, -we toggled on to the sledge rope, and with a "One, -two, three and away," we began our long journey over -the sea-ice.</p> - -<p>On the following morning we had to start our relay -work, and dragged the Christmas Tree sledge on first, -as we were specially liable to lose parcels off it, for a -distance of nearly half a mile. Then we returned and -fetched up what we called the Plum Duff sledge, chiefly -laden with our provisions.</p> - -<p>After a heavy day's work on the following day, we -camped for the night close to a seal-hole which belonged -to a fine specimen of Weddell seal, but our slumbers were -disturbed by the snorting and whistling of the seals -as they came up for their blows.</p> - -<p>The seals, however, were nothing to the Emperor -penguins, which awakened us by their chatter on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">- 189 -</span> -morning of the 10th. Evidently they had marched down -on our tent during the night to investigate us, and the -sounds they made may be described as something -between the cackle of a goose and the chortle of a -kookaburra.</p> - -<p>I saw four of them standing by the sledges, and when -they caught sight of me they were much interested, -and the conversation between them became very lively. -I have no doubt that they took us for penguins of an -inferior type, and the tent for our nest. At any rate, -they were kind enough to take careful note of our doings, -and to give us a good send-off when we left them.</p> - -<p>During that day a blizzard was behind us, and as -the strength of it increased we found that we could -draw both sledges at the same time, which was, of course, -a great saving of labour. Tempted, however, to continue -our march under these favourable conditions, we went -on longer than was wise, with the result that when we -stopped it was extremely difficult to get the tent up.</p> - -<p>Slipping the tent over the poles placed close to the -ground in the lee of the sledge, two of us raised the -poles while the other shovelled snow on to the skirt of -the tent, which we pulled out by degrees until it was -finally spread to its full dimensions. Glad indeed were -we to turn in and escape from the biting blast and drifting -snow.</p> - -<p>This violent blizzard blew throughout the whole of -the next day, and we spent it for the most part in our -sleeping-bags; but on the 13th we arrived at Butter -Point, which is merely an angle in the low ice-cliff near -the junction of the Ferrar Glacier valley with the main -shore of Victoria Land, and made a depot there.</p> - -<p>Altogether we lightened our load by about 70 lb., and -we also left letters there for Lieutenant Shackleton and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">- 190 -</span> -R. E. Priestley respectively, stating that in consequence -of our late start from Cape Royds, and also on account -of the slowness of our progress thence to Butter Point, -we could not return to the Point until January 12 at -the earliest, instead of the first week in January, as had -been anticipated. Months later we heard that this little -depot survived the blizzards, and that Armytage, -Priestley and Brocklehurst had read our letters.</p> - -<p>A few days later we landed at Cape Bernacchi, and -on October 17 we hoisted the Union Jack and took -possession of Victoria Land for the British Empire. -The geology of Cape Bernacchi is extremely interesting, -the dominant type of rock being a pure white coarsely -crystalline marble, which has been broken through by -granite rocks, the latter in places containing small red -garnets.</p> - -<p>On the next day we reached a headland where the -rocks resembled those at Cape Bernacchi, and Mawson -considered that some of the quartz veins traversing this -headland would prove to be gold-bearing.</p> - -<p>That same night I was attacked by snow-blindness -through neglecting to wear my snow-goggles regularly, -and as I was no better when the time came for us to -march, I asked Mawson to take my place at the end of -the long rope, the foremost position in the team. So -remarkably proficient was he on this occasion, and -afterwards, at picking out the best track for our sledges -and in steering a good course, that at my request he -occupied this position throughout the rest of the journey.</p> - -<p>Uneventful days followed, but by the 23rd it was -quite clear that at our rate of travelling—about four -statute miles daily by the relay method—we could not -get to the Pole and back to Butter Point early in January, -so we held a serious council as to the future of our journey -towards the Magnetic Pole, and I suggested that the -most likely means to get there and back in the time -specified by Lieutenant Shackleton would be to travel -on half-rations, depoting the remainder of our provision -at an early opportunity.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">- 191 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_191" style="width: 576px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_191.png" width="576" height="380" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Loaded Sledge showing the Distance Recorder or Sledge-meter</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">- 192 -</span></p> - -<p>After some discussion, Mawson and Mackay agreed -to try this expedient, and we decided to think over the -matter for a few days and then make our depot-.</p> - -<p>In pursuing our north-westerly course we presently -passed a magnificent bay, which trended westwards -some five or six miles away from the course we were -steering. On either side of this bay were majestic ranges -of rocky mountains, parted from one another at the -head of the bay by an immense glacier with steep ice -falls.</p> - -<p>On either side of this glacier were high terraces of -rock reaching back for several miles from a modern -valley edge to the foot of still higher ranges. It was -obvious that these terraces marked the position of the -floor of the old valley at a time when the glacier ice was -several thousand feet higher and some ten miles wider -than it was when we saw it.</p> - -<p>We longed to explore these inland rocks, but time was -too precious. Later on we discovered that the point -opposite which we had arrived was really Granite -Harbour, and that its position was not correctly shewn -on the chart.</p> - -<p>By the night of October 29 we were all thoroughly -done up after completing our four miles of relay work, -and we discussed the important question whether it -was possible to eke out our food supplies with seal-meat -so as to avoid putting ourselves on half-rations, and -we all agreed that this should be done. The chief problem -in connection with the seal-meat was how to cook it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">- 193 -</span> -without the aid of paraffin oil, for we could not afford -paraffin for that purpose.</p> - -<p>On the next day we tried the experiment of strengthening -the brew of the tea by using the old tea-leaves of a -previous meal mixed with the new ones—an idea of -Mackay's which Mawson and I did not appreciate at -first, though later on we were glad enough to adopt it.</p> - -<p>By this time the weather had become warmer, and -consequently the saline snow on the sea-ice was sticky, -and gripped the runners of the sledges like glue. Only -by the greatest exertion could we drag the sledges along -even at a snail's pace.</p> - -<p>But although we were thoroughly exhausted when we -camped on the evening of the 30th, our evening meal -revived us so much that we walked over to a small -island about three-quarters of a mile distant, which -turned out to be a truly wonderful place for a geologist -and a perfect paradise for the mineralogist.</p> - -<p>On this island, which we afterwards called Depot -Island, Mawson discovered a translucent brown mineral, -which was proved to be titanium mineral.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVI">CHAPTER XXXVI<br /> -<span class="smaller">ACROSS THE ICE BARRIER</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">How</span> to reach the Pole was still our engrossing subject -of discussion, and on November 1 we decided that our -only hope of reaching it, was by travelling on half-rations -from the point we had reached to the point on the coast -at the Drygalski Glacier, where we might hope to be -able to turn inland with reasonable prospect of success. -Mawson was convinced that we must keep six weeks of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">- 194 -</span> -full rations for our inland journey, and this meant that -we must march on half-rations for about 100 miles.</p> - -<p>While I was busy in calculating times and distances -for the remainder of our journey, Mawson and Mackay -conducted experiments upon the cooking of seal-meat -with blubber. At winter quarters Mackay had experimented -with blubber as a fuel, but his efforts had not -been taken seriously, and, to our sorrow, his blubber -lamp had been left behind.</p> - -<p>Eventually, however, as a result of Mackay and -Mawson's experiments, we secured an effective cooking -stove, which was made out of one of our large empty -biscuit tins, and a broth from seal-meat was made upon -this stove. The broth was apparently very nutritious, -but in my case it was also indigestible.</p> - -<p>While Mawson was still engaged on cooking experiments, -Mackay and I went to the highest point of the -island, and chose a spot for a cairn to mark our depot -and Mackay began to build the cairn.</p> - -<p>It had, of course, become clear to us, from what we -had already seen of the cracking sea-ice, combined with -our slow progress, that our retreat back to camp from -the direction of the Magnetic Pole would probably be -cut off altogether through the breaking up of the sea-ice.</p> - -<p>Under these circumstances we resolved to take the -risk of the <i>Nimrod</i> returning safely to Cape Royds, -where she would be instructed to search for us along the -western coast; and also the risk of her not being able -to find our depot and ourselves.</p> - -<p>We knew that there was some danger in this course, -but we also felt that we had got on so far with the work -entrusted to us by our commander that we could not -honourably turn back.</p> - -<p>Under these circumstances we each wrote farewell<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">- 195 -</span> -letters to those who were nearest and dearest, and at -4.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the following morning we posted them in -one of our empty dried-milk tins, which had an air-tight -lid, and, having walked up to the cairn, I lashed our -post-office to the flagstaff by means of cord and copper -wire.</p> - -<p>There we also left several bags of geological specimens, -and with lighter loads were prepared to go onwards -towards the Pole.</p> - -<p>It was later than usual when we left our depot, and -as the sun's heat was already thawing the surface of -the snow our progress was painfully slow. So terribly -hard, indeed, was it to get along at all, that, after going -two miles, we camped and resolved to go on again at -midnight, when we hoped to avoid the sticky surface.</p> - -<p>This experiment was fairly successful, and by November -5 we were opposite to a most interesting panorama -some twenty miles north of Granite Harbour.</p> - -<p>During that same day we had a very heavy surface -to hamper and tire us, but as an offset to these troubles -we had that night, for the first time, the use of a new -frying-pan, ingeniously constructed by Mawson out of -one of our empty paraffin tins. Indeed, Mawson's cooking -experiments continued to be highly successful and entirely -satisfactory to the party.</p> - -<p>At this time we encountered a good deal of brash ice, -and noticed that this type of ice surface was most common -in the vicinity of icebergs. The brash ice is, I think, -formed by the icebergs surging to and fro in heavy -weather and crunching up the sea-ice near to them. -The sea-ice, of course, refreezes, producing a surface -covered with jagged edges and points.</p> - -<p>But although brash ice was too plentiful biscuits were -too scarce, and we were already reduced to one Plasmon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">- 196 -</span> -biscuit each for breakfast and one for evening meals, -and we had become exceedingly careful over the crumbs. -At first, on this expedition, when biscuits were more -plentiful we had munched them boldly, regardless of the -loss of crumbs. Not so at this time, when crumbs were -collected most carefully by the man to whom they -belonged.</p> - -<p>Uneventful days of sledging followed—days on which -we were tired at night and hungry nearly always; but -on the 9th we were cheered by a fine, though distant, -view of the Nordenskjold Ice Barrier to the north of us, -and we were all extremely anxious to find out what sort -of surface for sledging this great glacier was going to -offer us.</p> - -<p>According to the Admiralty chart, prepared from -observations by the <i>Discovery</i> expedition, this glacier -was twenty-four to thirty miles wide, and projected -over twenty miles from the rocky shore into the sea. -We hoped that we should be able to cross it without -following a circuitous route along its seaward margins.</p> - -<p>Two days later we reached the Nordenskjold Ice -Barrier, and as Mawson wished to take some observations, -Mackay and I decided to explore the glacier for -the purpose of selecting a suitable track (if we could find -it) for our sledges.</p> - -<p>On our return we were able to tell Mawson the good -news that the barrier was quite practicable for sledging; -while he informed us that, as the result of his observations, -the Magnetic Pole was probably about forty miles -further inland than the theoretical mean position -calculated for it from the magnetic observations of the -<i>Discovery</i> expedition seven years before.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 12th we packed up and -started to cross the barrier, and on the second day we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">- 197 -</span> -had not sledged for more than a thousand yards when -Mawson suddenly exclaimed that he could see the end -of the barrier, where it ended in a white cliff some -600 yards ahead.</p> - -<p>We halted the sledge, and while Mawson took some -theodolite angles Mackay and I tried to find a way down -the cliff, but failed to find it. Once more we reconnoitred, -and this time Mawson and I found some steep slopes -formed by drift snow, which were just practicable for -a light sledge lowered by an alpine rope.</p> - -<p>We chose what seemed to be the best of these slopes -and Mackay, having tied the rope round his body and -having taken his ice-axe, went down the slope cautiously, -Mawson and I holding on to the rope meanwhile.</p> - -<p>The snow gave a good foothold, and he was soon at -the bottom without needing support from the rope. Then, -when he had returned to the top, we all set to work -unpacking the sledges, and after loading one sledge -lightly we lowered it little by little down the slope, one -of us guiding the sledge while the other two slackened -out the alpine rope above. The man who went to the -bottom unloaded the sledge on the sea-ice, and then -climbed back again, while the others hauled up the empty -sledge. This manœuvre was repeated again and again -until everything was safe, and we very glad to have -crossed the ice barrier so quickly. There can be little -doubt, I think, that this Nordenskjold Ice Barrier is -afloat.</p> - -<p>On the following day we were naturally anxious to -be sure of our exact position on the chart, in view of -the fact that we had come to the end of the barrier -some eighteen miles quicker than the chart had led us -to anticipate. Accordingly, Mawson worked up his -meridian altitude, while I plotted out the angular distances<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">- 198 -</span> -he had found respectively for Mount Erebus, -Mount Lister and Mount Melbourne.</p> - -<p>As the result of the application of our calculations to -the chart it became evident that we were opposite to -what on Captain Scott's chart was termed Charcot -Bay, and consequently were nearly twenty miles nearer -north than we had thought ourselves to be. This was -splendid news, and cheered us up very much.</p> - -<p>We were still travelling by night and sleeping during -the afternoon, and when we got out of our sleeping-bags -at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on the night of the 15th there was a -beautifully perfect "Noah's Ark" in the sky. We also -saw fleecy sheets of frost-smoke arising from over the -open water on Ross Sea, and forming dense cumulus -clouds. This warned us that open water was not far -away, and impressed us with the necessity of pushing -on if we hoped to reach our projected point of departure -on the coast for the Magnetic Pole before the sea-ice -entirely broke up.</p> - -<p>Difficult surfaces continued to beset us, and our -progress was consequently exceedingly slow.</p> - -<p>By the 24th we were suffering both from exhaustion -and want of sleep, and I rued the day when we chose -the three-man bag in preference to the one-man bag.</p> - -<p>A three-man sleeping-bag, where you are wedged in -more or less tightly against your mates, where all snore -and shin one another, and where each man feels on -waking that he is more shinned against than shinning, is -not conducive to real rest.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">- 199 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVII">CHAPTER XXXVII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE DRYGALSKI GLACIER</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> November 26 Mawson and I ascended a rocky promontory, -while Mackay was securing some seal-meat, -and from the top we had a splendid view across the level -surface of sea-ice far below us.</p> - -<p>But although what we saw was magnificent, it was -also discomforting, for at a few miles from the shore an -enormous iceberg, frozen into the floe, lay right across -the path which we had meant to travel on the next day.</p> - -<p>To the north-west of us was Geikie Inlet, and beyond -that, stretching as far as the eye could follow, was the -great Drygalski Glacier. Not a little concerned were we -to observe with our field-glasses that the surface of this -glacier was wholly different to that of the Nordenskjold -Ice Barrier.</p> - -<p>Clearly the surface of the Drygalski Glacier was formed -of jagged surfaces of ice very heavily crevassed, but we -could see that at the extreme eastern extension, some -thirty miles from where we were standing, the surface -appeared to be fairly smooth.</p> - -<p>It was also obvious to us, from what we had seen -looking out to sea to the east of our camp, that there -were large bodies of open water at no great distance -from us trending shorewards in the form of long lanes. -The lanes of water were only partly frozen over, and -some of these were interposed between us and the Drygalski -Glacier.</p> - -<p>Not a moment was to be lost if we were to reach the -glacier before the sea-ice broke up, for one strong blizzard -would have converted the whole of the sea-ice between -us and the glacier into a mass of drifting pack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">- 200 -</span></p> - -<p>The thing, indeed, for us to do was to push on with -all our might, and still with slushy surfaces to hinder us -we pulled and tramped until—on the 28th—we came to -a point where for some time it seemed as if our progress -further north was completely blocked. Eventually, -however, we found a place where the ice might just bear -our sledges, and, having strengthened it by laying down -slabs of sea-ice and shovelfuls of snow, we rushed our -sledges over safely. Extremely thankful were we to get -them over to the other side, for the ice was so thin that -it bent under our weight, and once Mackay broke through -and very nearly got a ducking.</p> - -<p>Next we had to encounter some very high sastrugi of -hard tough snow, and as these were nearly at right-angles -to our course, the work of dragging our sledges -over them was very distressing. And after the sastrugi -we met with an ice-surface which kept continually cracking -as we passed over it, with a noise like that of a whip -being cracked.</p> - -<p>We were unable by this time to talk about anything -but cereal foods, such as cakes of various kinds and -fruits, for we were very short of biscuits and were consequently -seized with food obsessions.</p> - -<p>The sun, however, which had during the afternoons -considerable heating power, and in one way was hindering -us by making the surfaces so slushy, helped us in another -way. For when I put some snow into our aluminium -cooking-pot and exposed it for several hours—while we -were camping—to the direct rays of the suns, I was -glad to find that half the snow was thawed down, -a result that, of course, saved us both paraffin and -blubber.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">- 201 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_201" style="width: 547px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_201.png" width="547" height="384" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Northern Party on the Plateau, New Year's Day, 1909.</span> (<i>See page 211</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">- 202 -</span></p> - -<p>On the 30th the ice ridges fronting us became higher -and steeper, and strain we ever so mightily we could -scarcely get the sledges to move up the steep ice slopes, -and the sledges also skidded a good deal as we dragged -them obliquely upwards.</p> - -<p>The glacier was now spread before us as a great billowy -sea of pale green ice, with here and there high embankments -of marble-like <i>névé</i> resembling railway embankments. -Unfortunately for our progress, the trend of the -latter was nearly at right-angles to our course, and as -we advanced the undulations became more and more -pronounced, the embankments higher and steeper.</p> - -<p>These embankments were bounded by cliffs from forty -to fifty feet in height, with overhanging cornices of tough -snow. The cliffs faced northwards, and such serious -obstacles were the deep chasms which they produced -to our advance that we had often to go a long way round -in order to head them off.</p> - -<p>December began with a very laborious day, and after -battling on for several hours we had only advanced a -little over half a mile. So we decided to camp, for Mackay -and me to try to find a way for the sledge out of the -maze of chasms that beset us, and for Mawson to take -magnetic observations.</p> - -<p>During that afternoon we discussed our situation at -some length. Most probably the Drygalski Glacier was -twenty miles wide, and if we were to cross it along the -course we were travelling at the rate of a mile a day it -would take us twenty days to get over, even if we took -no account of the unforeseen delays which our experience -had already taught us were sure to occur. From what -Mackay and I had seen ahead of us, our difficulties were -bound, for a considerable distance, to increase rather -than grow less.</p> - -<p>Under these circumstances we were reluctantly forced -to the conclusion that our only hope of ultimate success<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">- 203 -</span> -lay in retreat, and so we resolved to drag the sledges back -off the glacier on to the sea-ice by the way along which -we had come.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVIII">CHAPTER XXXVIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">CREVASSES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> retreat began early on the morning of December 2, -and after a week's struggle on the glacier Mackay, just -before camping-time on the 9th, sighted open water on -the northern edge of the Drygalski Ice Barrier, from three -to four miles away. This convinced us that we could not -hope for sea-ice over which to sledge westwards to that -part of the shore where we proposed to make our final -depot, before attempting the ascent of the great inland -plateau in order to reach the Magnetic Pole.</p> - -<p>On the 10th, however, at the end of the day's sledging -we rejoiced to find ourselves off the true glacier type of -surface, and on to one of the undulating barrier type. -This improvement enabled us to steer westwards, and -on the following day we had a fine view of "Terra Nova" -Bay, and as far as could be judged the edge of the Drygalski -Ice Barrier on the north was scarcely a mile distant.</p> - -<p>So surprised were we at the general appearance of the -outline of the ice, which did not seem to agree with -the shape of this region as shown on the Admiralty chart, -that we halted a little earlier than usual to reconnoitre. -Mackay started off with the field-glasses to a conspicuous -ice-mound about half a mile to the north-west, Mawson -began to change his plates, while I went out with my -sketch-book to get an outline panoramic view of the -grand coast ranges in sight.</p> - -<p>So few had been the crevasses of late that I failed to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">- 204 -</span> -take my ice-axe with me and I had scarcely gone half -a dozen yards from the tent when the lid of a crevasse -collapsed under me, and let me down nearly up to my -shoulders.</p> - -<p>I only saved myself from going right down by throwing -out my arms and staying myself on the snow-lid on -either side. The lid was so rotten that I did not dare to -move for fear that I might be thrown into the abyss, -but fortunately Maws on was near, and on my calling to -him he brought an ice-axe and chipped a hole in the -firm ice on the edge of the crevasse nearest to me. Then -he inserted the chisel edge of the ice-axe in the hole and, -holding on to the pick-point, swung the handle towards me. -Grasping this, I was able to climb out on to the solid -ice.</p> - -<p>On the following day we sledged on until we were close -to the ice-mound already mentioned, and decided that -as this mound commanded such a general view of the -surrounding country, it must also be a conspicuous object -to any one approaching the Drygalski Glacier by sea -from the north. And so we decided that as we could find -no trace of the "low, sloping shore"—as it was called -on the Admiralty chart—we would make our depot at -this spot.</p> - -<p>We estimated that we still had 220 miles to travel -from this depot on the Drygalski Glacier to the Magnetic -Pole, and therefore it was necessary to make preparations -for a journey there and back of at least 440 miles. We -considered that with <i>détours</i> the journey might possibly -amount to 500 miles.</p> - -<p>Our first business, therefore, was to lay in a stock of -provisions sufficient to last us for our journey, and after -Mackay had killed some seals and Emperor penguins -we started cooking our meat for the trip. Our calculation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">- 205 -</span> -was that the total weight—when we depoted one sledge -with spare equipment and all our geological specimens—would -be 670 lb. But we were very doubtful whether we, -in our stale and weakened condition, would be able to -pull such a load.</p> - -<p>We unpacked and examined both sledges, and found -that of the two, the runners of the Duff sledge were the -less damaged.</p> - -<p>On the 14th we were still busy preparing for the great -trek inland. Mackay was cooking meat, Mawson was -employed in transferring the scientific instrument boxes -and other things from the Christmas Tree sledge to the -Duff sledge, while I was engaged on fixing up depot flags, -writing letters to the commander of the <i>Nimrod</i>, Lieutenant -Shackleton, and my family, and fixing up a milk-tin -to serve as a post office on to the depot flag-pole.</p> - -<p>When we were fully prepared the Christmas Tree -sledge was dragged to the top of the ice-mound, where -we cut trenches with our ice-axes in which to embed -the runners of the sledge; then we fixed the runners -into these grooves, piled the chipped ice on top, and then -lashed the flag-pole about six feet high with the black -flag displayed on the top of it very carefully to the -sledge. We all felt quite sorry to part with the Christmas -Tree sledge, which by this time seemed to us like a bit -of home.</p> - -<p>Anxious as we were to start for our dash towards the -Pole, we were prevented by a furious blizzard from -getting on our way until the 16th. Then we were delighted -to find that, in consequence of our three days' rest we -were able to pull our sledge with comparative ease.</p> - -<p>Soon afterwards we reached another open tide-crack, -and had to spend some time in going round it, and on -the far side of this crack we encountered a large pressure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">- 206 -</span> -ridge forming a high and steep slope which barred our -advance. Its height was about eighty feet, but if we -were to go on there was nothing to do but drag our sledge -up the slope, a most exhausting work which was made -more difficult still by the fact that this ice-slope was -traversed by numerous crevasses.</p> - -<p>At last we got up the slope, only to see in the dim light -that a succession of similar slopes were ahead of us, -becoming continually higher and steeper. The ice, too, -became a perfect network of crevasses, some of which -were partly open, but most of them covered with snow -lids.</p> - -<p>Suddenly, when crossing one of these lids, and just as -he was about to reach firm ice on the other side, we heard -a slight crash, and Mawson instantly disappeared. Fortunately -the toggle at the end of his sledge-rope held, -and he was left swinging in the empty space between -the walls of the crevasse, being suspended by his harness -attached to the sledge-rope.</p> - -<p>Mackay and I hung on to the rope in case it should part -at the toggle, but when Mawson called out for the alpine -rope to be passed down to him I left Mackay and hurried -back to the sledge to get it. Just, however, as I was -trying to disengage a coil of rope, Mawson called out that -he felt he was going, so I returned to help Mackay in his -effort to keep a strain on Mawson's harness rope. Then -Mawson said that he was all right, and the rope having -suddenly cut back through the lid of the crevasse was -probably the reason why he had felt that he was falling.</p> - -<p>I now held on to the harness rope while Mackay got -the alpine rope, and made a bow-line at the end in which -Mawson could put his foot. In the meantime Mawson, -who was down about eight feet below the level of the -snowy lid, secured some ice crystals from the side of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">- 207 -</span> -crevasse and threw them up for subsequent examination.</p> - -<p>The alpine rope having been lowered, we eventually -hoisted him up little by little to the under surface of -the snow-lid, but as his harness rope had cut back a -narrow groove in this snow-lid several feet from where -the snow gave way under him, he found his head and -shoulders pressing against the under side of the snow-lid -and had difficulty in breaking through this in order -to get out his head.</p> - -<p>At last the top of his head appeared, and presently he -got safely out on the near side of the crevasse, a deliverance -for which we were all supremely thankful. After -this too-exciting episode we were extra-cautious in -crossing crevasses, but the ice was simply seamed with -them.</p> - -<p>Twice when our sledge was being dragged up ice-pressure -ridges it rolled over sideways with one runner -in a crevasse, and once the whole sledge all but disappeared -into a crevasse, the snow-lid of which partly collapsed -under its weight. Had it gone down completely we should -certainly have been dragged down with it, as it weighed -nearly one-third of a ton.</p> - -<p>It was clear to us that these numerous crevasses which -we had reached were caused not by the Drygalski but -by the Nansen Glacier.</p> - -<p>On the 20th we held a council of war, the question -being whether we should continue in the direction of -the Mount Nansen Glacier, or whether we should retreat -and try to find some other way to the plateau. Mackay -was in favour of hauling ahead over the glacier, while -Mawson and I favoured retreat, and at last we decided -to retreat once more.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">- 208 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIX">CHAPTER XXXIX<br /> -<span class="smaller">UPWARDS AND ONWARDS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">So</span> far as the possibility of reaching the Magnetic Pole -was concerned, our fortunes seemed to have reached a -low ebb. It was already December 20, and we knew -that we had to be back at our depot on the Drygalski -Glacier not later than February 1 or 2, if there was to be -a reasonable chance of our being picked up by the -Nimrod. That meant that we had to travel at least 480 -to 500 miles before we could hope to get to the Magnetic -Pole and back to our depot, and there remained only six -weeks to accomplish this journey.</p> - -<p>At the same time we should have to pioneer a road up -to the high plateau, and now that everything was buried -under soft snow it was clear that sledging would be slower -and more difficult than ever. Under the circumstances it -was, perhaps, not to be wondered at that we were not -hopeful of our chance of success.</p> - -<p>However, there was nothing to do but to reconnoitre -in a south-westerly direction to see what way was most -practicable for us, and after paddling, unwillingly, in -many shallow pools of water and crossing much pressure-ice -and several crevasses, we at last saw that we should -have to drag our sledge up a steep slope encumbered with -soft deep thawing snow.</p> - -<p>We also collected several specimens, including a -solitary coral, and while we were collecting them we could -hear the roar of many mountain torrents descending -the steep granite slopes of the great mountain mass.</p> - -<p>Occasionally, too, we heard the boom and crash of an -avalanche descending from the high mountain top, and -such sounds were strange to our ears, accustomed so long -to the almost uninterrupted solitude and silence of the -Antarctic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">- 209 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_209" style="width: 382px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_209.png" width="382" height="580" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Northern Party at the South Magnetic Pole</span> -From left: Dr. Mackay, Professor David, Douglas Mawson -(<i>See page 215</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">- 210 -</span></p> - -<p>On the 22nd we were suddenly struck by a furious -blizzard which hindered us until Christmas Eve, but by -ten o'clock on that evening we had succeeded in struggling -on until we were above the uncomfortable zone of thaw, -and everything around us was once more crisp and dry -though cold. We had reached over 1200 ft. above sea -level, and our spirits mounted with the altitude.</p> - -<p>On Christmas Day we were delayed at first by a -blizzard, but in spite of this we managed to travel about -four miles and to camp at night over 2000 ft. above sea-level. -Having no other kind of Christmas gift to offer, -Mawson and I presented Mackay with some sennegrass -for his pipe, his tobacco having been exhausted long -before.</p> - -<p>The following day saw us again crossing crevasses, and -as some of them were from 20 to 30 ft. wide, it was -fortunate that the snow lids were strong enough to carry -safely both the sledge and ourselves. Mackay suggested -that, for greater security, we should fasten the alpine -rope around Mawson, who was in the lead, and secure -the other end of it to the sledge. The rope was left just -slack enough to admit of the strain of hauling being taken -by the harness rope, and so Mawson had two strings -to his bow in case of being suddenly precipitated into a -crevasse. It was a good system, and we always adopted -it afterwards in crossing heavily crevassed ice.</p> - -<p>On the next day we made a small depot of our ski -boots, all our geological specimens, and about one day's -food supply together with a small quantity of oil, and -this we called the Larsen Depot as it was close to one -of the southern spurs of Mount Larsen.</p> - -<p>Our eyes were now straining, as we advanced with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">- 211 -</span> -sledge, to see whether any formidable mountains still -barred our path to the plateau, and our thankfulness -was unbounded when at last we realised that apparently -we were going to have a fairly easy ascent of hard névé and -snow on to the plateau. On that day we advanced a little -over ten miles, and on December 30 we reached an -altitude of nearly 5000 ft., our breath freezing into lumps -of ice and cementing our Burberry helmets to our beards -and moustaches as in winter time.</p> - -<p>New Year's Eve brought with it some disappointment -from Mawson's announcement—after he had taken a fresh -set of magnetic observations—that he made out the -Magnetic Pole to be further inland than had been -originally estimated. We were still dragging the sledge -on an up grade and on a softer surface than before, and as -we were also obliged to put ourselves on somewhat shorter -rations, in order to form an emergency food-supply in -case our journey proved longer than we anticipated, we -were very much exhausted by night.</p> - -<p>On that same evening a skua gull came to visit us, I -am afraid not with any intention of giving us New Year's -greetings, but because he mistook us for seals crawling -inland to die, as is not infrequently the habit of these -animals.</p> - -<p>New Year's Day gave us beautifully calm weather, and -to celebrate the beginning of 1909 Mawson provided us -with a grand hoosh and a rich pot of cocoa, which we -enjoyed thoroughly after an exhausting march.</p> - -<p>Hunger, indeed, was beginning to beset us, and we -should also have liked more to drink if we could have -afforded it. In fact instead of talking about what we -would like to eat, we began to talk about what we would -drink if we had the chance. Mackay would have liked -to drink a gallon of buttermilk straight off, Mawson wanted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">- 212 -</span> -a big basin of cream, while my choice was several pots of -the best coffee with plenty of hot milk.</p> - -<p>We were still climbing on January 3, but on the next -day we were pleased to find that the up grade was becoming -less steep. We had reached an altitude of over 6000 ft. -and found breathing in the cold air distinctly trying. -It was not that definite mountain sickness had attacked -us, but that we felt weaker than usual as the result, doubtless, -of the height combined with the cold.</p> - -<p>Still, we were progressing at the rate of about ten miles -a day, and that was enough to make us hopeful in spite -of everything.</p> - -<p>On the 6th I left off my crampons and put on a new -pair of finnesko, with the result that I fell heavily over one -of the sastrugi, and slightly straining some muscles on -the inner side of my left leg, just below the knee, I suffered -a considerable amount of pain for the rest of the journey.</p> - -<p>Mountain lassitude still continued to attack us and -our hands were often frost-bitten when packing up the -sledge. By the 9th we were completely out of sight of -any mountain ranges, and were toiling up and down -amongst the huge billows of a snow sea.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XL">CHAPTER XL<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE MAGNETIC POLE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Each</span> successive evening saw us some ten miles nearer -to the Magnetic Pole, but by the 11th we had various -inconveniences (to name them mildly) to add to our -difficulties. Mawson had a touch of snow-blindness in -his right eye, and both he and Mackay suffered much -through the skin of their lips peeling off, leaving the raw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">- 213 -</span> -flesh exposed. Mawson, particularly, experienced great -difficulty every morning in getting his mouth to open, as -his lips were firmly glued together.</p> - -<p>The compass by this time was very sluggish, in fact -the theodolite compass would scarcely work at all. This -pleased us all a good deal, and at first we all wished more -power to it; and then, recognising our mistake, we -amended the sentiment and cordially wished less power -to it.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 12th, Mawson, after carefully -analysing the results set forth in the advance copy of -the <i>Discovery</i> Expedition Magnetic Report, decided that, -although the matter was not expressly so stated, the Magnetic -Pole instead of moving easterly, as it had done in -the interval between Sabine's observation in 1841 and -the time of the <i>Discovery</i> expedition in 1902, was likely -now to be travelling somewhat to the north-west.</p> - -<p>The results of dip readings taken earlier in the journey -also agreed with this decision. It would, therefore, be -necessary to travel farther in that direction than we had -expected, if we were to reach our goal. Most extremely -disquieting news was this for us, as we had come almost -to the end of our provisions, after making allowance for -enough to take us back on short rations to the coast. -Still, in spite of anxiety, our overwhelming weariness -enabled us to get some sleep.</p> - -<p>At breakfast on the following morning we fully discussed -our future movements, and Mawson, having -carefully reviewed his observations as to the position of -the Magnetic Pole, decided that we must travel four more -days if we were to reach it, and we resolved to go on -sledging for that time.</p> - -<p>On that day we advanced thirteen miles, and on the -next the snow surface over which we were sledging<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">- 214 -</span> -sparkled with large reconstructed ice crystals, about -half an inch in width and one sixteenth of an inch in -thickness, which it seemed a sacrilege to break.</p> - -<p>On the 15th about twenty minutes before true noon -Mawson took magnetic observations with the dip circle -and found the angle only fifteen minutes off the vertical, -the dip being 89° 45'. Naturally we were very much -rejoiced to find that we were close to the Magnetic Pole. -The observations made by Bernacchi, during the two years -of the <i>Discovery</i> expedition sojourn at winter quarters on -Ross Island, showed that the extent of daily swing of -the magnet was sometimes considerable. The compass -at a distance from the Pole pointing in a slightly varying -direction at different times of the day, indicates that the -polar centre executes a daily round of wanderings about -its mean position.</p> - -<p>Mawson considered that we were already practically at -the Magnetic Pole; and that if we waited for twenty-four -hours taking constant observations at the spot we had -reached, the Pole would, probably, during that time, come -vertically beneath us. We decided, however, to go on -to the spot where Mawson concluded the approximate -mean position of the Magnetic Pole would lie. That -evening the dip was 89° 48'.</p> - -<p>From the rapid rate at which the dip had been increasing, -as well as from a comparison of Bernacchi's -magnetic observations, Mawson estimated that we were -about 13 miles distant from the probable mean position -of the South Magnetic Pole. To locate, he said, the -mean position accurately it was possible that a month -of continuous observation would be necessary, but that -the position he indicated was as close as we could -locate it.</p> - -<p>Consequently we decided to make a forced march of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">- 215 -</span> -13 miles on the following day to the approximate mean -position of the Pole.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, January 16, we were up at 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> and -soon started, pulling our sledge for two miles. We then -depoted a lot of our heavy gear and equipment, and -having gone on for another two miles we fixed up the legs -of the dip circle, the compass moving in a horizontal -plane being useless for keeping us on our course.</p> - -<p>Two miles farther on we fixed up the legs of the theodolite, -and after another two miles we put up our tent and -had a light lunch.</p> - -<p>Afterwards we walked five miles in the direction of the -Magnetic Pole so as to place us in the mean position -calculated for it by Mawson, 72° 25′ South latitude, 155° -16′ East longitude. Mawson placed his camera so as -to focus the whole group, and in the meantime Mackay -and I fixed up the flag-pole.</p> - -<p>Then at 3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we bared our heads and hoisted the -Union Jack with the words uttered by myself, in conformity -with Lieutenant Shackleton's instructions: "I -hereby take possession of this area now containing the -Magnetic Pole for the British Empire."</p> - -<p>At the same time I fired the trigger of the camera by -pulling the string which Mawson had arranged, and -finally we gave three cheers for His Majesty the King.</p> - -<p>The temperature at the moment we hoisted the flag was -exactly 0° Fahr.</p> - -<p>It was an intense satisfaction and relief to all of us to -feel that at last, after so many days of toil and danger, we -had been able to carry out our leader's instructions, and -to fulfil the wish of Sir James Clarke Ross that the South -Magnetic Pole should be actually reached, as he had -already in 1831 reached the North Magnetic Pole.</p> - -<p>At the same time we were too utterly weary to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">- 216 -</span> -capable of any great amount of exultation. I am sure -the feeling that was uppermost in all of us was one of -devout and heartfelt thankfulness to the kind Providence -which had so far guided our footsteps in safety to that -goal.</p> - -<p>With a fervent "Thank God" we all did a right-about -turn, and marched as quickly as tired limbs would allow -us back towards our little green tent in the wilderness -of snow. Reaching our depot a little before 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> that -night, we turned into the sleeping-bag faint and weary, -but happy that a haunting load of possible failure was at -last removed from our minds.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLI">CHAPTER XLI<br /> -<span class="smaller">RETURNING</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">I called</span> the camp later than usual on the following -morning, and we discussed our chances of catching the -Nimrod if she searched for us along the coast in the -direction of our depot on the Drygalski Glacier.</p> - -<p>At the Magnetic Pole we were fully 260 statute miles -distant, as the skua gull flies, from our depot, and as we -had knocked off eleven of these miles on the previous -day we still had 249 miles to cover. If, then we were -to reach the Drygalski depot by February 1, we had only -fifteen days in which to do it, and we should have to -average sixteen and two-third miles a day in order to -reach the coast in the time specified.</p> - -<p>This, of course, did not allow for any delay from -blizzards, and we knew from the direction of the sastrugi -during our last few days' march that the prevailing -direction of the blizzards was likely to be exactly in our -teeth. The prospect, therefore, of reaching our depot in -the specified time did not appear to be bright.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">- 217 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_217" style="width: 549px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_217.png" width="549" height="382" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Ready to start Home.</span> (<i>See page 233</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">- 218 -</span></p> - -<p>On starting, however, on the 17th we had most glorious -weather, and the wind which had helped us towards -the Pole turned round and helped us away from it. -In spite of our late start we sledged 16 miles, and on -the following day, although Mawson's left leg was paining -him, we covered practically the same distance.</p> - -<p>The 19th saw us still keeping up the same rate of -progress, but owing to some miscalculation of mine we -discovered that we had no tea for this week, our sixth -week out, unless we took it out of the tea-bag for the -seventh week. Accordingly we halved the tea in the -seventh week bag, and determined to collect our old -tea-bags at each camp as we passed it, and to boil these -bags together with the small pittance of fresh tea.</p> - -<p>As we progressed coastwards we soon had quite an -imposing collection of muslin bags with old tea leaves, -and with the thorough boiling they got there was a strong -flavour of muslin added to that of old tea. But nevertheless -we considered that this drink was nectar.</p> - -<p>In view of the steady sixteen miles a day that we were -doing Mawson proposed on the 20th that we should return -to nearly full rations, a proposal which was hailed with -delight, for we were becoming very exhausted through -insufficient food.</p> - -<p>Up to that date we had been able still to follow our -old sledge tracks, which was a great blessing when the -magnetic needle was of so little use to us. But on the -following days we, lost these tracks, and had a great -deal of pie-crust snow to cross, which made our work -terribly fatiguing.</p> - -<p>However, we managed to keep up our sixteen miles -per day, and on January 24 we were cheered by sighting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">- 219 -</span> -Mount Baxter. Towards evening we discussed whether -we were following approximately our old out-going -tracks. Mackay thought we were nearer to the mountain -than before, I thought we were farther to the south-west, -Mawson, who was leading, said that we were pretty -well on our old course. Just then I discovered that we -were actually on our old tracks which showed up plainly -for a short distance, and which were striking evidence of -Mawson's skill as a navigator.</p> - -<p>On the next day we encountered a mild blizzard, but -we also managed to sight Mount Nansen just before -we camped, and when we resumed our march we reached -a surface of hard marble-like névé, which descended -by short steep slopes.</p> - -<p>At first we did not realise that we were about to -descend what we had called the Ice Falls on the outward -journey, and as the sledge occasionally took charge and -rushed down this marble staircase Mawson and I came -some heavy croppers.</p> - -<p>On the 27th we were delighted at last to sight Mount -Larsen, and to have reached a point only forty miles -from our Larsen Depot.</p> - -<p>The wind was blowing at about 25 miles an hour, and -occasionally, in an extra strong puff, the sledge took -charge. On one of these occasions it suddenly charged -into me from behind, knocked my legs from under me, -and nearly juggernauted me. But I was quickly rescued -from this undignified position by Mawson and Mackay.</p> - -<p>At lunch, with a faint hope of softening the heart of -Mackay—who was messman for the week—I mildly -informed him that it was my birthday. He took the -hint and both at lunch and dinner we all fared, what -we considered, sumptuously.</p> - -<p>We advanced twenty miles towards the coast on that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">- 220 -</span> -day, but it had been a most fatiguing journey, and when -we started again we decided that pulling the sledge was -less exhausting than the sailing had proved to be.</p> - -<p>Hour by hour we steadily pulled on, Mounts Nansen -and Larsen growing larger and clearer, and we began -to hope that we might be able to reach our depot that -night. But later on Mawson's sprained leg pained him -so much that we had almost decided to camp, when -Mackay's sharp eyes sighted our little blue flag tied to -the ice-axe at our depot. It was, however, past midnight -before we turned into our sleeping-bags.</p> - -<p>On the next morning—January 30—we were up at -9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, and after breakfast we collected the material at -our depot, such as ski boots, oil, and geological specimens -and loaded these on to our sledge.</p> - -<p>During this day we discussed whether it would be -wiser to descend by the old track up which we had come, -or make down the main Larsen Glacier to the point -where it joined the Drygalski Glacier. Mackay favoured -the former route, while Mawson and I were in favour -of the latter, and, as subsequent events proved, Mackay -was right and we were wrong.</p> - -<p>We held on down the main glacier, and the descent -was soon so steep that only with difficulty could we -prevent the sledge from charging down the slope.</p> - -<p>On January 31 we took half the load off the sledge, and -started with the remainder to try and work a passage of -the ice-pressure ridges of the combined Drygalski and -Larsen Glaciers on the smoother sea-ice, and eventually -on to the Drygalski Ice Barrier.</p> - -<p>While Mawson and Mackay pulled, I steadied the -sledge on the lower side in rounding the steep sidelings, -but in spite of my efforts to keep it on even keel the -sledge frequently capsized. At last we arrived at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">- 221 -</span> -foot of an immense ice-pressure ridge, a romantic-looking -spot with a huge cliff of massive granite rising up on our -left to heights of about 2000 ft., although I admit that at -the time we did not exactly appreciate its romantic beauty.</p> - -<p>Mackay reconnoitred, and found that the large pressure -ridge which seemed to bar progress towards our depot -must be crossed. So taking our ice-axes we smoothed -a passage across part of the ridge—a tough job—and -then unloaded the sledge and passed each one of our -packages over by hand. Finally we dragged the sledge -up, and hoisted it over and lowered it down safely -on the other side.</p> - -<p>Little by little the surface improved after this, until -our progress was once more barred, but on this occasion -by what may be termed an ice donga, apparently an -old channel formed by a river of thaw-water.</p> - -<p>We encountered three of them during that afternoon -from a few feet to 50 or 100 ft. broad, and often we had -to take our sledge a long way round to cross them.</p> - -<p>Our difficulties were increased by the innumerable -crevasses and steep ice ridges, and once Mackay and I -were in the same crevasse at the same time, he up to his -shoulders and I up to my waist. Fortunately, however, -we were able to save ourselves from falling right through -the lid by throwing out our arms.</p> - -<p>While we sledged on through the night, snow began -to fall, and when we camped at 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on February 1 we -were all most thoroughly weary.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">- 222 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLII">CHAPTER XLII<br /> -<span class="smaller">OBSTACLES IN OUR COURSE</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>It continued to snow heavily during the day. But -although Mawson's leg pained him a great deal we had -to push on, for we were still sixteen miles, we thought, -from our depot on the Drygalski Glacier, and we had -only two days' food left. So we started to sledge in the -thick, driving snow, but as the work under these conditions -were excessively exhausting, and we were also -unable to keep our proper course while the blizzard lasted, -we camped at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> and were soon sleeping the sleep of -worn and weary wanderers.</p> - -<p>On the morning of February 2 we were rejoiced to -find the sun shining, and we resolved to make a desperate -attempt to reach our depot on this day, for we knew that -the <i>Nimrod</i> would be due—perhaps overdue—by the -night. On looking back we saw that our track of the -day before was about as straight as a corkscrew.</p> - -<p>Once more we pulled out over the soft snow, but -although a little refreshed by our good sleep we found -the work extremely trying and toilsome.</p> - -<p>We crossed an ice donga, and about four miles out -reached the edge of a second donga. Here we determined -to leave everything but our sledge, tent, sleeping-bag, -cooking apparatus, oil and food, and make a forced -march to the Drygalski depot. Accordingly we camped -and having fixed up our depot, we marked the spot -with a little blue flag tied on to an ice-axe.</p> - -<p>The sledge thus lightened was far easier to pull, and -having crossed the donga by a snow-bridge we pulled -steadily onwards, Mawson occasionally sweeping the horizon -with our field-glasses in hopes of sighting our depot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">- 223 -</span></p> - -<p>Suddenly he exclaimed that he saw the depot flag -distinctly on its ice mound, about seven miles distant, -but when Mackay and I looked through the glasses -neither of us could see any trace of the flag. Mawson -considered that both of us must be snow-blind, but when -he looked again he at once exclaimed that he could no -longer see the flag. The horizon seemed to be walloping -up and down, just as though it was boiling, evidently the -result of a mirage.</p> - -<p>Mawson, however, was so confident that he had seen -the flag, well round on the starboard bow of our sledge -that we altered our course, and after going a little over a -mile, we were rejoiced to hear that he could distinctly see -the depot flag. Full of hope we kept on sledging for -several miles farther, but at midnight when the temperature -had fallen to zero I felt that one of my big toes was -getting frost-bitten. All day my socks had been wet -through, and with the sudden fall of temperature the -water in the socks had turned to ice.</p> - -<p>So we halted for me to change my socks and for all of -us to have a midnight meal, and much refreshed we -started off again, thinking that at last we should reach -our depot, or at all events the small inlet a little over a -mile from it. But "the best laid schemes of mice and -men gang aft agley."</p> - -<p>There was an ominous white streak ahead of us -with a dark streak just behind it, and soon we saw -that this was due to a ravine in the snow and ice -surface interposing itself between ourselves and our -depot, and shortly afterwards we reached the near -cliff of the ravine.</p> - -<p>This ravine was 200 yds. broad, and from 30 to 40 ft. -deep; and it was bounded by a vertical cliff or very -steeply inclined slope on the north-west side, and by an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">- 224 -</span> -overhanging cliff on the south-east side. Inland the -ravine extended as far as the eye could reach.</p> - -<p>We determined to try to cross the ravine, at the -bottom of which we were excited to see a number of seals -and Emperor penguins dotted over the ice floor. At -last by means of making fast the Alpine rope to the bow -of the sledge we reached the bottom, and there Mackay -killed two penguins to replenish our exhausted larder. -Meanwhile Mawson was looking out for a spot where we -might swarm up, and as I was feeling much exhausted, -I asked him to take over the leadership of the expedition.</p> - -<p>I considered myself justified in taking this step as the -work assigned to us by our leader was accomplished, and -we were within two or three miles of our depot and had -no reason to fear the danger of starvation.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, as regards our ultimate personal -safety, our position was rather critical. In the first place, -we were not even certain that the <i>Nimrod</i> had arriven in -Ross Sea; in the second place, assuming that she had, if -was quite possible that she would miss sighting our depot -flags altogether.</p> - -<p>In the event of the ship not appearing within a few -days, it would have been necessary to take immediate -action with a view either to winter at the Drygalski -depot or to an attempt to sledge over the steeply -crevassed glacier for over 200 miles to Cape Royds.</p> - -<p>Even at the moment, had some immediate strenuous -action been necessary from the <i>Nimrod</i> suddenly appearing, -I thought that it would be best for Mawson, who was -less physically exhausted than I was, to be in charge.</p> - -<p>He had, throughout the whole journey, shown excellent -capacity for leadership, and when I spoke to him he at -first demurred, but finally said he would act for a time.</p> - -<p>At first we thought that there was one very difficult but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">- 225 -</span> -apparently possible means of ascent up the cliff face; -our efforts, however, in this direction were doomed to -failure, and we were compelled to retrace our steps up -the ravine down which we had previously lowered the -sledge.</p> - -<p>This was a tremendous labour, for we could only force -the sledge up a few inches at a time; eventually, however, -we found ourselves on the level plain at the top of the -ravine, but, of course, on the wrong side as far as our -depot was concerned. There we thought it safe to camp, -for we were within three miles of the open sea, and had -the <i>Nimrod</i> sighted our depot flag and stood in to the -coast, we could easily have hurried down to the entrance -of the inlet and made signals to her.</p> - -<p>At 7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we turned in after toiling for twenty-three -hours, and at about a quarter-past seven, as we learnt -later, the <i>Nimrod</i> must have passed; but owing to a light -wind with snow drift she was unable to sight either our -depot flag or tent.</p> - -<p>Having had four hours' rest we packed our sledge and -started along the north bank of the snow gorge, the snow -and ice at the bottom being dotted with basking seals -and moulting Emperor penguins.</p> - -<p>At first, in our tired and weak state, we were much -dispirited to find no means of crossing the ravine, but -eventually Mackay, who had gone ahead, shouted that -he had discovered a snow-bridge across it, and when he -had rejoined us we pulled the sledge to the head of the -bridge.</p> - -<p>There was a crevasse at both the near and far ends of -the bridge, and stepping over the crevasse at the near -end we launched the sledge with a run down to the centre -of the bridge and then struggled up the steep slope facing -us, Mackay steadying the sledge from falling off the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">- 226 -</span> -narrow causeway, while all of us pulled for all we were -worth.</p> - -<p>In another minute or so we were safely across with our -sledge, and thankful to have surmounted the last obstacle -between us and our depot.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLIII">CHAPTER XLIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">SAFE ABOARD</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>As we were all thoroughly exhausted and had reached a -spot from which we could get a good view of the ocean -beyond Drygalski Barrier, we camped at 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on -that evening (February 3) a little over a mile away from -our depot.</p> - -<p>During that day we had two of the most satisfying -meals we had eaten for a very long time; a soupy mincemeat -of penguin for lunch, and plenty of seal for dinner.</p> - -<p>And after the second meal Mawson and I turned into -the sleeping-bag, leaving Mackay to take the first of our -four-hour watches on the look-out for the <i>Nimrod</i>. -During his watch he walked up to the depot and dug out -our biscuit tin, which had served us as a blubber lamp -and cooker, together with the cut-down paraffin tin which -we had used as a frying-pan, and carried them to the tent.</p> - -<p>Then he cooked some penguin meat and regaled himself -with dainty morsels from the savoury dish, and when -he called me at 4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> I found that he had thoughtfully -put into the frying-pan about two pounds of penguin's -breast for me to toy with during my watch.</p> - -<p>During the afternoon of the 4th we discussed our -future plans, and decided that we had better at once -move the tent up to our old depot, where it would be a -conspicuous object from the sea, and where, too, we -could command a more extensive view of the ocean.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">- 227 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_227" style="width: 573px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_227.png" width="573" height="376" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">A view of the Hut in the Summer. Meteorological Station can be seen on the -extreme right.</span> (<i>See page 60</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">- 228 -</span></p> - -<p>We also talked about what it would be best to do if the -Nimrod did not appear, and determined that we ought to -tackle the journey to Hut Point, keeping ourselves alive -on the way, as best we might, with seal-meat.</p> - -<p>While, however, Mackay thought we ought to start in -a few days, Mawson and I, on the other hand, thought -that we should wait where we were until late in February. -From whatever point of view we looked at it, our lot was -not a happy one.</p> - -<p>Dispirited, indeed, by forebodings of much toil and -trouble, we were just preparing to set our weary limbs in -motion to pack up and trek up to the depot, when—Bang! -went something, seemingly close to the door of our tent. -The sound thrilled us; in another instant the air reverberated -with a big boom, much louder than the first -sound.</p> - -<p>Mawson was the first to give tongue, roaring out, "A -gun from the ship!" and dived for the tent door. As the -latter was narrow there was for the moment some congestion -of traffic. I dashed my head forwards, only in -time to receive a few kicks from the departing Mawson. -Just as I was recovering my equilibrium, Mackay made -a wild charge, rode me down, and trampled over my -prostrate body.</p> - -<p>When at last I got started, Mawson had got a lead -of a hundred and Mackay of about fifty yards. "Bring -something to wave," Mawson shouted, and rushing back -to the tent I seized Mackay's ruck-sack.</p> - -<p>And then as I ran forward again, what a sight met my -gaze! Not a quarter of a mile away was the dear old -Nimrod, steaming straight towards us up the inlet, and -at the sight of the three of us hastening frantically to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">- 229 -</span> -meet the ship, hearty ringing cheers burst forth from all -on board.</p> - -<p>It would be hard, indeed, for anyone who has never -been situated as we had been, to realise the sudden -revulsion of our feelings, or to understand how those -cheers stirred every fibre within us. In a moment, as -dramatic as it was heavenly, we seemed to have passed -from death into life.</p> - -<p>My first feelings were of intense joy and relief, then of -fervent gratitude to the kind Providence which had so -mercifully led our friends to our deliverance.</p> - -<p>Suddenly, however, a shout from Mackay called me -back to earth: "Mawson's fallen into a deep crevasse—look -out, it's just in front of you," he called, and I saw -him kneeling near the edge of a small oblong hole in the -névé.</p> - -<p>"Are you all right, Mawson?" he asked, and from -the depth came up the welcome word, "Yes."</p> - -<p>Mackay then told me that Mawson was about twenty -feet down the crevasse, and we decided to try to pull him -up with the sledge harness and hurried back to get it. -Our combined strength, however, was not enough to pull -him up, and as there was a danger of the snow lid at the -surface falling in on Mawson unless it was strengthened -with some planking, we gave up our attempt, I remaining -at the crevasse while Mackay hurried off for help to the -Nimrod.</p> - -<p>"Mawson has fallen down a crevasse, and we got to -the Magnetic Pole," Mackay called out, and almost in -less time than it takes to write it officers and sailors -were swarming over the bows of the <i>Nimrod</i> and dropping -on to the ice barrier.</p> - -<p>I called to Mawson that help was at hand, and he -replied that he was quite comfortable, for although there<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">- 230 -</span> -was seawater at the bottom of the crevasse, he was able -to sustain himself a couple of feet above it on the small -ledge that had stopped his fall.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile, the rescue party, headed by J. K. Davis, -the first officer of the <i>Nimrod</i>, had arrived, and when the -crevasse had been bridged with a piece of sawn timber, -Davis, with the thoroughness which characterised all his -work, promptly had himself lowered down the crevasse. -And presently Mawson, with only his back slightly bruised -from this fall, and then Davis were safely on the top.</p> - -<p>What a joyous grasping of hands and hearty all-round -welcoming followed, and foremost among those old friends -who greeted us was Captain Evans who had commanded -the <i>Koonya</i>, and who was then in command of the <i>Nimrod</i>, -a fact which gave us the greatest satisfaction. Quickly -he assured me of the good health of my wife and family, -and while willing hands packed up our sledge and other -belongings, Captain Evans walked with us to the rope -ladder hanging over the bows of the <i>Nimrod</i>.</p> - -<p>Quickly as all this had taken place, Mackay had -already found time to secure a pipe and some tobacco -from one of our crew, and was pulling away to his -heart's content.</p> - -<p>After our one hundred and twenty-two days of hard -toil over the sea ice of the coast, and the great snow -desert of the Hinterland, the little ship seemed to us as -luxurious as an ocean liner. Pleasantly the buzz of our -friends' voices—giving us all the news—blended itself -with the gentle fizzing of steam from the <i>Nimrod's</i> boiler, -and surely since the days of John Gilpin "were never -folk so glad" as were we three.</p> - -<p>Afternoon tea came first and then the joy of reading -the home letters, and finding good news in them. Later -we three had a novel experience, the first real wash for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">- 231 -</span> -over four months, and after diligent scrubbing bits of -our real selves began to show through the covering of -seal-oil and soot.</p> - -<p>Of course we over-ate ourselves at dinner, but all the -same we were ready to partake liberally of hot cocoa and -biscuits before we turned in at 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></p> - -<p>Under Providence we felt we owed our lives to the -thorough search, sound judgment and fine seamanship -of Captain Evans, and the devotion to duty of his officers -and crew.</p> - -<p>My last thought in the twilight that comes between -wakefulness and sleep is expressed in the words of our -favourite record on the gramophone, "So long Thy power -hath blest me, sure it still will lead me on."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLIV">CHAPTER XLIV<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p>The <i>Nimrod</i>, with Professor David, Mawson and Mackay -aboard, got back to winter quarters on February 11 and -landed Mawson. No news had been heard of the -Southern Party, and the depot party, commanded by -Joyce, was still out. On February 20 it was found that -the depot party had reached Hut Point, and had not -seen Marshall, Adams, Wild or myself. My instructions -had provided that if we had not returned from our -journey toward the South Pole by February 25, a party -was to be landed at Hut Point with a team of dogs, and -on March 1 a search-party was to go south. Murray, who -was in command of the expedition during my absence, -was in no way responsible for the failure of that party to -be landed, and obeyed faithfully my full instructions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">- 232 -</span></p> - -<p>All arrangements being completed, most of the members -of the expedition went ashore at Cape Royds to get their -property packed in readiness for departure. The ship -left Cape Royds on the 21st, and was lying under Glacier -Tongue when I arrived at Hut Point with Wild on -February 28, and after I had been landed with the relief -party in order that Adams and Marshall might be brought -in, the ship went to Cape Royds so that the remaining -members of the shore-party and some specimens and -stores might be taken on board.</p> - -<p>The <i>Nimrod</i> anchored a short distance from the shore, -and two boats were launched. As everything had to be -lowered by ropes over the cliff into the boats, the work -of embarkation took some time, but by 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 2 -only the men and dogs remained to be taken on board.</p> - -<p>A stiff breeze was blowing, and by the time the dogs -had one by one been lowered into the boats, the wind had -freshened to blizzard force, and the sea had begun to run -dangerously. The waves had deeply undercut the ice-cliff, -leaving a projecting shelf.</p> - -<p>One boat, in charge of Davis, succeeded in reaching -the ship, but a second boat, heavily laden with men and -dogs, was less fortunate, and before it had gone many -yards from the shore an oar broke.</p> - -<p>The <i>Nimrod</i>, owing to the severity of the storm was -forced to slip her moorings and steam from the bay, and -an attempt to float a buoy to the boat was not successful.</p> - -<p>Consequently Harbord and his men were in great -danger, for they could not get out of the bay owing to the -force of the sea, and the projecting shelf of ice threatened -disaster if they approached the shore. Flying spray -had encased the men in ice, and their hands were numb -and frozen.</p> - -<p>At the end of an hour they managed to make fast to a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">- 233 -</span> -line stretched from an anchor a few yards from the cliff, -the men who had remained on shore pulling this line taut.</p> - -<p>Their position was still dangerous, but eventually the -men and dogs were all safely hauled up the slippery ice-face -before the boat sank. Hot drinks were soon ready -for them in the hut, and although the temperature was low -and nearly all the bedding had been sent on board, they -were thankful enough to have escaped with their lives.</p> - -<p>On the following morning (March 3) the ship came -back to Cape Royds, and having got all the men and -dogs aboard, went back to the Glacier Tongue anchorage -to wait for the relief party.</p> - -<p>About ten o'clock that same night Mackintosh was -on deck talking to some other members of the expedition, -when he suddenly became excited and said, "I feel that -Shackleton has arrived at Hut Point." He was very -anxious that the ship should proceed to the Point, but -no one paid much attention to him, and Dunlop advised -him, if he was so sure about it, to go aloft and look for a -signal. Accordingly Mackintosh went aloft, and immediately -seeing our flare at Hut Point the ship left at -once, and by 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on March 4 the entire expedition was -safe on board.</p> - -<p>If we were to try to complete our work there was no -time to be lost, for the season was far advanced and the -condition of the ice was already a matter of anxiety. -But as I was very eager to undertake exploration with -the ship to the westward towards Adelie Land, with the -idea of mapping the coast-line in that direction, I gave -orders to steam north, and in a very short time we were -under way.</p> - -<p>First of all, I wished to round Cape Armitage and pick -up some geological specimens and gear that had been left -at Pram Point, but young ice was forming over the sea,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">- 234 -</span> -and it was evident that we had scarcely an hour to waste -if we were not to spend a second winter in the Antarctic.</p> - -<p>Having brought the <i>Nimrod</i> right alongside the pressure -ice at Pram Point, Mackintosh at once landed with a -small party, and as soon as they returned we steamed -north again.</p> - -<p>On passing our winter quarters at Cape Royds we all -turned out to give three cheers, and to take a last look -at the place where, in spite of discomforts and hardships, -we had spent so many happy days. We watched the -little hut, which had been our home for a year that must -always live in our memories, fade away in the distance -with feelings almost of sadness, and there were few men -aboard who did not cherish a hope that some day they -might again live strenuous days under the shadow of -mighty Erebus.</p> - -<p>I left at the winter quarters on Cape Royds a supply -of stores sufficient to last fifteen men for one year, for -the changes and chances of life in the Antarctic are such -that this supply might be most valuable to some future -expedition. The hut was locked up and the key hung -where it might easily be found, and we re-adjusted the -lashing of our home so that it might withstand the fury -of many blizzards. There our hut stands waiting to be -used, and containing everything necessary to sustain life.</p> - -<p>I was anxious to pick up some geological specimens -left on Depot Island, but as the wind had freshened to a -gale, and we were passing through streams of ice, it was -too risky to chance even a short delay, and consequently -I gave instructions that the course should be altered to -due north.</p> - -<p>My object was to push between the Balleny Islands -and the mainland, and to make an attempt to follow the -coast line from Cape Nort westward, so as to link up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">- 235 -</span> -with. Adelie Land. No ship had ever succeeded in -penetrating to the westward of Cape North, heavy pack -having been encountered on the occasion of each -attempt. In our attempt we did not manage to do all -that I hoped, but all the same we had the satisfaction of -pushing our little vessel along that coast to longitude -166° 14′ East, latitude 69° 47′ South, a point farther -west than had been reached by any previous expedition.</p> - -<p>On the morning of March 8 we saw, beyond Cape North, -a new coast-line extending first to the southwards and -then to the west for a distance of over 45 miles, and -Professor David was of opinion that it was the northern -edge of the polar plateau.</p> - -<p>Gladly would we have explored this coast but that -was impossible, for the ice was getting thicker and -thicker, and it was imperative that we should escape to -clear water without delay.</p> - -<p>I still, however, hoped that we might skirt the Balleny -Islands and find Wilkes Land, but about midnight on -March 9 I saw that we must go north, and the course was -set in that direction.</p> - -<p>As it was we were almost too late, and the situation -looked black indeed when we were held up by the ice, -and the ship was quite unable to move. Fortunately we -found a lane through which progress could be made, and -by the afternoon of the 10th we were in fairly open water.</p> - -<p>Our troubles were ended, for we had a good voyage to -New Zealand, and on March 22 we dropped anchor at the -mouth of Lord's river on the south side of Stewart Island. -I did not go to a port because I wished to get the news -of the expedition's work through to London before we -faced the energetic newspaper men.</p> - -<p>That day in March was a wonderful one to all of us. -For over a year we had seen nothing but rocks, ice, snow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">- 236 -</span> -and sea. No green growth had gladdened our eyes, no -musical notes of birds had come to our ears. No man -who has not spent a period of his life in those "stark and -sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole" will understand -fully what trees, and flowers, and running streams mean -to the soul of a man. We landed on the stretch of beach -that separated the sea from the luxuriant growth of the -forest, and scampered about like children in the sheer -joy of being alive.</p> - -<p>Early next morning we hove up the anchor, and at -10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we entered Half Moon Bay. There I went ashore, -and having despatched my cablegrams from the little -office I went on board again and ordered the course to -be set for Lyttelton, the port from which we had sailed -on the first day of the previous year, and we arrived -there on March 25 late in the afternoon.</p> - -<p>The people of New Zealand would have welcomed us, -I think, whatever had been the result of our efforts, for -since the early days of the <i>Discovery</i> expedition their -keen interest in Antarctic exploration has never faltered, -and their attitude towards us was always that of warm -personal friendship.</p> - -<p>But the news of the measure of success we had achieved -had been published in London and flashed back to the -southern countries, and we were met out in the harbour -and on the wharves by cheering crowds. Enthusiastic -friends boarded the <i>Nimrod</i> almost as soon as she entered -the heads, and when our gallant little vessel came alongside -the quay the crowd on deck became so great that -movement was almost impossible.</p> - -<p>Then I was handed great bundles of letters and cablegrams. -The loved one at home were well, the world was -pleased with our work, and it seemed as though nothing -but joy and happiness could ever enter life again.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">- 237 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_237" style="width: 409px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_237.png" width="409" height="575" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Emperor Penguin.</span> (<i>See page 238</i>)</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">- 238 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLV">CHAPTER XLV<br /> -<span class="smaller">PENGUINS</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="tdc">(<i>Some Notes by James Murray, Biologist to the -Expedition</i>)</p> - - -<p>Though so much has been written about them, penguins -always excite fresh interest in every one who sees them -for the first time.</p> - -<p>There is endless interest in watching them; the -dignified Emperor, dignified in spite of his clumsy waddle, -going along with his wife (or wives) by his side, the very -picture of a successful, self-satisfied, unsuspicious countryman, -and gravely bowing like a Chinaman before a -yelping dog, and also the little undignified matter-of-fact -Adelie, minding his own business in a most praiseworthy -manner. Often they behave with apparent stupidity, -but sometimes they show a good deal of intelligence. -Their resemblance to human beings is always noticed, -partly because they walk erect, but they also have many -other human traits. They are the civilised nations of the -Antarctic regions, and their civilisation, if much simpler -than ours, is in some respects higher and more worthy of -the name.</p> - -<p>But there is also a good deal of human nature in them. -As in the human race, their gathering in colonies does -not show any true social instinct; each penguin is in the -rookery for his own ends, there is no thought of the -general good. You might exterminate an Adelie rookery -with the exception of one bird, and he would not mind -so long as you left him alone.</p> - -<p>Some suggestion of unselfishness does appear in the -nesting habits of the Adelie, and like men the Adelies<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">- 239 -</span> -have the unpleasant habit of stealing and the pleasant -one of not making eating the prime business in life. -Both Emperors and Adelies, when nesting is off their -minds, show a legitimate curiosity, and having got into -good condition they leave the sea and go off in parties -for weeks, apparently to see the country.</p> - -<p>We saw the Emperor penguins only as a summer -visitor, when having finished nesting and having fed up -and become glossy and beautiful, they came up out of -the sea, apparently to have a good time before moulting. -While the Adelies were nesting the Emperors came in -numbers to inspect the camp, the two kinds usually -paying no attention to each other unless an Adelie -thought an Emperor came too close to her nest, when an -odd unequal quarrel followed. Little impudence, pecking -and scolding, and being more than able to hold her own -with the tongue, but knowing the value of discretion -whenever the Emperor raised his flipper.</p> - -<p>The Emperors were very inquisitive and would come a -long way to see a motor-car or a man, and when out on -these excursions the leader kept his party together by a -long shrill squawk. Distant parties saluted in this way.</p> - -<p>The first party to arrive inspected the boat, and then -crossed the lake to the camp, but when they discovered -the dogs all other interests were swallowed up. After -the discovery crowds of Emperors came every day, and -from the manner in which they went straight to the -kennels one was tempted to believe that the fame of the -dogs had been noised abroad.</p> - -<p>As regards meetings, Emperors were very ceremonious, -whether meeting other Emperors, men, or dogs. They -came up to a party of strangers in a straggling procession, -some big aldermanic fellow leading. At a respectful -distance they halted, and the old male waddled close up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">- 240 -</span> -and bowed gravely until his head almost touched his -breast. With his head still bowed he made a long speech -in a muttering manner, and having finished his speech he -still kept his head bowed for a few seconds for politeness -sake, and then raising it he described with his bill as large -a circle as the joints of his neck would allow, and finally -looked into our faces to see if we understood. If we had -not, as usually was the case, he tried again.</p> - -<p>He was infinitely patient with our stupidity, but his -followers were not so patient with him, and presently -they would become sure that he was making a mess of it. -Then another male would waddle forward and elbow the -first Emperor aside as if to say, "I'll show you how it -ought to be done," and went again through the whole -business.</p> - -<p>Their most solemn ceremonies were used towards the -dogs, and three old fellows were seen calmly bowing and -speaking at the same time to a dog, which was yelping -and straining at its chain in the desire to get at them.</p> - -<p>Left to themselves the Emperor penguins seemed -perfectly peaceable, but if they did use their flippers -they could strike forward or backward with equal ease.</p> - -<p>They seemed to regard men as penguins like themselves, -but if a man walked too fast among them or touched -them they were frightened and ran away, only fighting -when closely pressed. As one slowly retreated, fighting, -he had a ludicrous resemblance to a small boy being -bullied by a big one, his flipper being raised in defence -towards his foe as he made quick blows at the bully. -It was well to keep clear of that flipper, for it was very -powerful and might easily break an arm.</p> - -<p>Many of the stupid acts of both kinds of penguins are -doubtless to be traced to their very defective sight in air, -and to this defect one must ascribe the fact that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">- 241 -</span> -when they fought the blows from their bills always fell -short.</p> - -<p>The Emperor can hardly be said to migrate, but -nevertheless he travels a good deal, and the meaning of -some of his journeys remain a mystery.</p> - -<p>On journeys they often travel many miles walking -erect, when they get along at a very slow shuffle, making -only a few inches at each step. In walking thus they -keep their balance by means of their tails, which forms a -tripod with the legs. When, however, they are on a -suitable snow surface, they progressed rapidly by tobogganing, -a very graceful motion, when they made -sledges of their breasts and propelled themselves by their -powerful legs, balancing, and perhaps increasing their -speed, by means of their wings.</p> - -<p>Eight of them visited the car one day, sledging swiftly -towards us, and one obstinate old fellow, who was not -going to be hurried away by anybody, had to see the car -bearing down upon him before he was persuaded to -hustle.</p> - -<p>The Adelie is always comical. He pops out of the -water with startling suddenness, like a jack-in-the-box, -alights on his feet, shakes his tail, and toddles off about -his business. He always knows where he wants to go -and what he wants to do, and it is difficult to turn him -aside from his purpose.</p> - -<p>In the water the Adelie penguins move rapidly and -circle in the same way as a porpoise or dolphin, for which -they are easily mistaken at a little distance. On level -ice or snow they can get along about as fast as a man at a -smart walk, but they find even a small crack a serious -obstruction, and pause and measure with the eye one -of a few inches before very cautiously hopping over it. -They flop down and toboggan over any opening more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">- 242 -</span> -than a few inches wide. Very rarely they swim in the -water like ducks, and on these infrequent occasions their -necks are below the surface and their heads are just -showing.</p> - -<p>The Adelie shows true courage in the breeding-season, -for after he has learned to fear man he remains to defend -the nest against any odds. When walking among the -nests one is assailed on all sides by powerful bills, and for -protection we wore long felt boots reaching well above -the knee. Some of the clever ones, however, realised -that they were wasting their efforts on the boots, and -coming up behind would seize the skin above the boot -and hang on tight, beating with their wings.</p> - -<p>Some birds became so greatly interested in the camp -that they wanted to nest there. One bird (we believe -it was always the same one) could not be kept away and -used to come every day, until at last he was carried away -by Brocklehurst, a wildly struggling, unconquerable -being.</p> - -<p>The old birds enjoy play, while the young ones are -solely engaged in satisfying the enormous appetites they -have when growing. While the <i>Nimrod</i> was frozen in -the pack some dozens of them disported themselves in a -sea-pool alongside. They swam together in the duck -fashion, then at a squawk from one they all dived and -came up at the other side of the pool.</p> - -<p>Early in October they began to arrive at the rookery, -singly or in pairs. The first to come were the males, and -they at once began to scrape up the frozen ground to -make hollows for nests, and to collect stones for the walls -with which they surrounded them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">- 243 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_243" style="width: 377px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_243.png" width="377" height="578" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">An Adelie calling for a Mate after commencing the Nest.</span><br /> - -(<i>See page 242</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">- 244 -</span></p> - -<p>When the rookery is pretty well filled, and the nest-building -is in full swing, the birds have a busy and -anxious time. To get enough suitable small stones is a -matter of difficulty, and may involve long journeys for -each single stone, so the temptation is too strong for -some of the birds, and they become habitual thieves. -The bearing of the thief, however, clearly shows that he -knows that he is doing wrong, for very different is his -furtive look, even after he is quite out of danger of -pursuit, from the expression of the honest penguin -coming home with a hard-earned stone.</p> - -<p>A thief, sitting on its own nest, was stealing from an -adjacent nest, whose honest owner was also at home but -looking unsuspectingly in another direction. Casually -the latter turned his head and caught the thief in the very -act, whereupon the culprit dropped the stone and pretended -to be busy picking up an infinitesimal crumb from -the neutral ground. Undoubtedly then the penguin has -a conscience, at least a human conscience, that is the fear -of being found out.</p> - -<p>This stone-gathering is a very strong part of the -nesting instinct, and even if at a late stage the birds lost -their eggs or their young, they began again, in a half-hearted -way, to heap up stones. Unmated birds occupied -the fringe of the rookery, and amused themselves piling -and stealing till the chicks began to hatch out.</p> - -<p>After the two eggs were laid the males—who always -seemed to be in the majority—used to do most of the -work, and judging from certain signs it would seem that -some of the birds never left their nests to feed during -the whole period of incubation. Many birds lost their -mates through the occasional breaking loose of a dog, -and these birds could not leave their nests.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">- 245 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLVI">CHAPTER XLVI<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE ADELIES AND THEIR CHICKS</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> rookery is most interesting after the chicks arrive. -The young chicks are silvery or stately grey, with darker -heads, which are heavy for the first day or so and hang -down helplessly. After hatching the parents take equal -share in tending the chicks, whatever they may have -done before. For some weeks the nest cannot be left -untended, or the chicks would perish of cold or fall victims -to the skuas.</p> - -<p>When the young ones can hold up their heads the -feeding begins, and at first the parent tries to induce its -offspring to feed by tickling its bill and throat. After -the chick has once learned to feed the parents are taxed -by the clamouring for more food.</p> - -<p>For some weeks after hatching life in the rookery is -smooth enough, for one parent is always on the nest and -the young birds do not wander. Then the trouble begins, -for the young begin to move about, and if anything -disturbs the colony they suffer from panic.</p> - -<p>The chicks knowing neither nest nor parent cannot -return home, so they meet the case by adopting parents, -and although some of the old ones resent this method -most of the chicks succeed in getting into nests. The old -bird may have chicks already, but as she does not know -which are her own she cannot drive the intruders away, -and sometimes we saw a sorely puzzled parent trying to -cover four gigantic chicks.</p> - -<p>The times comes when both parents must be absent -together to get food for the growing chicks, and then the -social order of the rookery gives way to chaos. But the -social condition which is evolved out of the chaos is one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">- 246 -</span> -the most remarkable in nature, and both serves its purpose -and saves the race. The parents returning with food -come back from the sea with the intention of finding -their nests and feeding their own young ones, but the -young one assumes that the first old one that comes -within reach is its parent, and, perhaps, it really thinks -so, as the parents are all alike.</p> - -<p>An old bird, coming up full of shrimps, is met by -clamorous youngsters before it has time to begin the -search for its nest. The chicks order the parent to stand -and deliver, and the latter scolds and runs off. But the -chicks are both wheedling and imperative, and soon there -begins one of those parent hunts which were so familiar -at the end of the season.</p> - -<p>The result, however, is never in doubt. At intervals -the old one is weak enough to stop and expostulate, but -there is no indecision on the part of the young ones, -which in the most matter-of-fact and persistent manner -hunt the old one down.</p> - -<p>Sometimes these chases last for miles, but in the end -the old one stops, and still spluttering and protesting -delivers up.</p> - -<p>One would think that under these circumstances the -weaker chicks would go to the wall, but as far as could -be seen there were no ill-nourished young ones. Perhaps -the hunt takes so long that all get a chance.</p> - -<p>A few days after the eggs began to hatch there was a -severe blizzard, which lasted for several days. Where -the snow had drifted deepest, nests and birds were covered -out of sight, and the indication of the whereabouts of a -bird was a little funnel in the snow, at the bottom of -which an anxious eye could be seen. On a moderate -estimate about half the young perished in this blizzard.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">- 247 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_247" style="width: 575px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_247.png" width="575" height="378" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Adelie trying to mother a couple of well-grown Strangers.</span> (<i>See page 215</i>)</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">- 248 -</span></p> - -<p>The old Adelies do not mind the cold, their thick -blubber and dense fur protecting them sufficiently, and -in a blizzard they will lie still and let the snow cover -them. Once after a blizzard I went to the rookery and -could see no penguins, but suddenly, at some noise, -they sprung out of the snow, and I was surrounded by -them.</p> - -<p>While the Adelie appears to be entirely moral in his -domestic arrangements, his stupidity (or his short-sightedness, -which causes him to seem stupid) gives rise -to many complications. All the birds go to their nests -without hesitating when they come from the sea by the -familiar route, but if taken from their nests to another -part of the rookery, some easily find their way back but -others are quite lost. They are most puzzled when -moved only a little way from home, and they will fight -to keep another bird's nest while their own is only a -couple of feet away.</p> - -<p>There is no doubt, however, that the presence of our -camp upset their social arrangements, and probably -when undisturbed there would be no confusion and -complications.</p> - -<p>As it was, a mere walk among the nests caused innumerable -entanglements, for one bird would leave its -nest in fright, and flop down a yard away beside a nest -already occupied, or on a nest left exposed by another -frightened bird.</p> - -<p>But in all such cases, even when a bird got established -on the wrong nest, things were always put straight afterwards. -When they calmed down they became uneasy, -probably observing the landmarks more critically, and -they would even leave a nest with chicks for their own -empty nest.</p> - -<p>We tried some experiments on the penguins in order -to trace the working of their minds. If one of us stood<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">- 249 -</span> -between a bird and its nest so as to prevent it from -approaching, the bird would make many furious attempts -to reach home. After a time, however, it would appear -to meditate, and then walk off rather disconsolately, -and having made a tour of the colony would approach -the nest from the other side. Apparently it was greatly -astonished to find that the intruder was still there, and -this curious trait was often seen.</p> - -<p>It is like the ostrich burying its head in the sand and -imagining itself safe, or like a man refusing to believe his -own eyes. It appears to think that if it comes to the -nest from the other side the horrible vision will have -disappeared.</p> - -<p>A lost chick was never sought for, indeed there would -have been no use in such a proceeding for it could not be -recognised. On account of this peculiarity we were able -to make many readjustments of the family arrangements. -When the blizzard destroyed so many chicks -we distributed the young from nests where there were -two to nests where there were none, and these chicks -were usually adopted with eagerness.</p> - -<p>When both birds are at a nest that is disturbed, or -when the mate comes up from feeding to relieve guard, -there is an interchange of civilities in the form of a loud -squawking in unison, accompanied by a curious movement. -The birds' necks are crossed, and at each squawk -they are changed from side to side, first right then left. -We were for some time mistaken in thinking that this -harsh clamour was quarrelling.</p> - -<p>A bird returning from the sea came to the wrong nest -and tried to converse with the occupant, who would -have nothing to do with him. The occupant knew that -her mate had just gone off for the day, and would not -be such a fool as to return too early, so she sat still,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">- 250 -</span> -indifferent to the squawking of the other. Presently a -look of distress came into the visitor's face as he failed -to get a response, but he was very slow to realise that he -had made a mistake.</p> - -<p>The Adelies are not demonstrative of their affections, -and it is difficult to discover if they have any beyond -the instinctive affection for the young. One curious -incident, however, did occur, which possibly, was in -opposition to what we expected after a long study of the -penguins' habits.</p> - -<p>An injured bird which we had tried to nurse died, and -shortly afterwards a live penguin was found standing by -it. We moved the dead bird to a distance, and after a -time found the other again standing beside it. It was -the general opinion that this was the dead bird's mate -which had found it out. From any point of view the -occurrence was puzzling, but I find it less difficult to -believe that the bird had found its dead mate than that -it took an interest in a dead stranger, because there were -always plenty of dead birds about a rookery, and the -living went about entirely indifferent to them.</p> - -<p>Instances of real kindness were sometimes noticed; -for instance, our passage through the rookery frightened -away the parent of a very young chick, and a bird passing -a few yards away noticed this and came over to the chick. -The bird cocked his head on one side as if saying: -"Hullo! this little beggar's deserted; must do something -for him." Then he tickled its bill, but the chick -was too frightened to feed. After coaxing it in this way -the bird turned away and put some food on the ground, -and then lifting a little in his bill he put some on each -side of the chick's bill. This was not an isolated case, -but was observed on several occasions, the helper always -running off when the rightful parent returned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">- 251 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_251" style="width: 576px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_251.png" width="576" height="382" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Penguins listening to the Gramophone during the Summer</span></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">- 252 -</span></p> - -<p>One incident seemed to reveal true social instinct. -From a small colony all the eggs except one were taken -to see if the birds would lay again. As it happened they -did not, and, after the birds had sat on their empty -nests for some time, they disappeared. But when the -time came for the solitary egg to hatch quite half the -nests were re-occupied, and the birds took their share in -defending the one chick.</p> - -<p>When the young birds have shed most of their down -they cease from hunting the old ones for food, and congregating -at the edge of the sea appear to be waiting for -something. When the right time, which they seem to -know perfectly, comes, they dive into the sea, sometimes -in small parties, sometimes singly, disappear and may -be seen popping up far out to sea. They dive and come -up very awkwardly, but swim well.</p> - -<p>It is marvellous how fully instinct makes these birds -independent, for the parents do not take them to the -water and teach them to swim, indeed the old ones stay -behind to moult. Though the chicks have spent their -lives on land and only know that food is something found -in an old bird's throat, when the time comes they leave -the land and plunge boldly into the sea, untaught, to -get their living by straining crustacea out of the water -in the same way as a whale does.</p> - -<p>Some of our party did report that they saw penguins -teaching the young to swim, but if this ever happens -it is not general.</p> - -<p>Like the Emperor, the Adelie is fond of travelling -when free from family cares. The great blizzard unfortunately -left hundreds of old birds with no chicks to -guard and feed, and they began to explore the country -in bands. The round of the lakes was a favourite trip, -and tracks also led to the summits of some of the hills,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">- 253 -</span> -although the short-sighted Adelie could hardly have -gone there for the view.</p> - -<p>There was no general trek southwards, such as the -Emperors made, but the Southern Party found tracks -of two Adelies at a distance of some 80 miles from the -sea.</p> - -<p>While chaos reigned in the rookery I found two Adelie -chicks exhausted and covered with mire, and I took -them to the hut and bestowed upon them the dignified -names of Nebuchadnezzar and Nicodemus. They were -placed in a large cage in the porch, and fed by hand -with sardines and fish-cakes. They did not, however, -like our way of feeding them, and it was necessary to force -the food so far down their throats that they were compelled -to swallow it.</p> - -<p>In a few days they became quite tame and recognised -those who fed them. Familiar only with our peculiar -method of feeding them, one of them used to show when -he was hungry by taking my finger into his bill.</p> - -<p>We shortened their names to Nebby and Nicky and -they answered to them, but they answered with equal -readiness to the common name of Bill. When sounds -from the rookery reached them they would become -greatly excited, and tried so desperately to get through -the netting of their cage that we used to take them out -for a walk. Then they would make no attempt to go to -the rookery and were rather frightened.</p> - -<p>Nebuchadnezzar was a very friendly little fellow, and -would follow me about outside and come running when -called. But their feeding was unnatural, and for this -reason, doubtless, both of them died after a few weeks.</p> - -<p>A single ringed penguin appeared at Cape Royds at -the end of the breeding season, just as the Adelies were -beginning to moult. It is about the same size as the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">- 254 -</span> -Adelie but is more agile, and at a little distance, among -a crowd of old Adelies, he looked not unlike a young -Adelie with the white throat. But when I picked him up -by the legs to investigate, he surprised me by curling -round and biting me on the hand—a feat that the Adelie -could not perform—and a closer examination showed -me what he was. Never before had a ringed penguin been -seen in this part of the Antarctic.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XLVII">CHAPTER XLVII<br /> -<span class="smaller">NOTES</span></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> first seals which we met on this expedition were -seen on our voyage from New Zealand before we entered -the actual line of bergs. I did not see them myself, but -from descriptions I gathered that one was a crabeater, -and the other a Weddell seal. Later on, of course, seals -were to be seen in numbers, and one of the reasons why -I selected Cape Royds for our winter quarters was because -I saw plenty of them lying on the bay ice, and consequently -we should not be likely to suffer from a lack -of fresh meat.</p> - -<p>On the return from the Magnetic Pole, Mackay found -two young seals, which behaved in a most unusual -manner, for instead of waiting without moving, as did -most of the Weddell seals, they scuttled away actively -and quickly.</p> - -<p>Later on he discovered that these two seals belonged -to the comparatively rare variety known as Ross seal.</p> - -<p>On our voyage back to New Zealand I sent a party to -the seal rookery near Pram Point to see if they could find -a peculiar seal that we had noticed on the previous night.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">- 255 -</span></p> - -<p>This seal was either a new species or the female of the -Ross seal. It was a small animal, about four feet six -inches long, with a broad white band from its throat right -down to its tail on the underside. The search, however, -proved a fruitless one.</p> - -<p>On our voyage out albatrosses were numerous, especially -the sooty species, the death of which, on Shelvoke's -voyage, inspired Coleridge's memorable poem. I noticed -one, flying low between the two ships, strike its wings -against the wire tow-line, which had suddenly emerged -from the waves owing to the lift of the <i>Koonya's</i> stern -upon a sea.</p> - -<p>Skua gulls were bathing and flying about in hundreds -when we first arrived at Cape Royds. But the most -remarkable bird seen on our expedition was discovered -by Marshall and Adams on our southern journey, remarkable -because it was seen in latitude 83° 40′ South.</p> - -<p>This bird was brown in colour with a white line under -each wing, and it flew just over their heads and disappeared -to the south.</p> - -<p>They were sure that it was not a skua gull, which was -the only bird I could think would venture so far south. -Indeed, on my previous southern trip, when in latitude -80° 30′ South, a skua gull had arrived shortly after we -had killed a dog.</p> - -<p>As regards bears I have nothing to say except that -there are none down south.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">- 256 -</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="img_pg_2561" style="width: 191px;"> - <img src="images/img_pg_2561.png" width="191" height="202" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Special Surcharged Expedition -Stamp with Postmark</span></div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<hr class="tb" /> - - - -<div class="transnote"> - -<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p> - - -<p class="tdc">Minor typos corrected. 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