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diff --git a/old/69091-0.txt b/old/69091-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index d9dec17..0000000 --- a/old/69091-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9000 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Pampas and Andes: A Thousand -Miles' Walk Across South America, by Nathaniel H. Bishop - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Pampas and Andes: A Thousand Miles' Walk Across South America - -Author: Nathaniel H. Bishop - -Release Date: October 3, 2022 [eBook #69091] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Adrian Mastronardi and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PAMPAS AND ANDES: A -THOUSAND MILES' WALK ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA *** - - - - [Illustration: THROWING THE LASSO.] - - - - - _THE PAMPAS AND ANDES._ - - A - THOUSAND MILES’ WALK - ACROSS - SOUTH AMERICA. - - BY - NATHANIEL H. BISHOP. - - WITH AN INTRODUCTION - BY - EDWARD A. SAMUELS, ESQ., - AUTHOR OF “ORNITHOLOGY AND OÖLOGY OF NEW ENGLAND,” - ETC., ETC. - - _THIRD EDITION, ILLUSTRATED._ - - BOSTON: - LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS. - NEW YORK: - LEE, SHEPARD AND DILLINGHAM. - - - - - Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by - LEE AND SHEPARD, - In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the - District of Massachusetts. - - STEREOTYPED AT THE - BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY, - No. 19 Spring Lane. - - - - - TO - - PROFESSOR SPENCER F. BAIRD, - - ASSISTANT SEC’Y OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, - - This Work is Dedicated, - - AS A TOKEN OF SINCERE REGARD, - - BY HIS FRIEND, - - _THE AUTHOR_. - - - - - PREFACE - - TO THE SECOND EDITION - - -When, a few weeks since, I saw my little book of South American travels -issued from the press, I supposed that my connection with it had ended. -My publishers now ask for a preface to a second edition. I take this -occasion to express my thanks for the very kind manner in which my -boyish descriptions of a boy’s travels have been received by the public -and the press. I can only wish that my book had been more worthy of the -liberal patronage and the generous praise which have been bestowed upon -it. - -If I had followed my own inclinations, I should have given my -narrative a thorough revision, and thus have corrected some of the -crudeness of my first literary effort. To this revision, however, my -publishers objected, on the ground that it would raise the suspicion -of genuineness as to these being the travelling observations of a lad -seventeen years of age, and impair also the freshness of the narrative. -My book has therefore been given to the public with but slight -alterations from the original draft. - -I should have been glad to have made the story of my travels more -fruitful in scientific results. But I had no instruments for making -accurate observations, and had not the opportunity to preserve -and transport many objects of natural history for comparison and -verification. Such observations as I have made on topics relating to -natural history, during my wandering on the inhospitable Pampas of -South America, if they are superficial, I have sought to make them at -least truthful. - - NATHANIEL H. BISHOP. - - OXYCOCCUS PLANTATION, - MANNAHAWKIN, N. J. - - - - - INTRODUCTION. - - -In placing this little volume before the public, a few words, regarding -the manner in which the incidents and material composing it were -acquired, may be of interest to the reader. - -The young gentleman who made the pedestrian trip, of which this forms -the narrative, was a native of Massachusetts. I had missed him from his -accustomed place for some time, but was ignorant of his contemplated -journey, or even that he had gone away, until my attention was -called to the following paragraph in the columns of the Boston Daily -Advertiser of January 12, 1856, from its Chilian correspondent:-- - - “VALPARAISO, November 27, 1855. - - “There arrived here, a few days since, a young man belonging to - Medford, Mass., who has walked across the Pampas and Cordilleras, - more than a thousand miles, unable to speak the language, and with an - astonishingly small amount of money. - - “So much for a Yankee.” - -My friend was but seventeen years of age when he entered upon his -difficult undertaking; but by dint of perseverance, backed by an -enthusiastic love for nature, he accomplished a task that would have -seemed insurmountable to many older and more experienced than himself. -To use the language of Dr. Brewer, the able author of the Oölogy of -North America, he was “a young and enthusiastic naturalist, whose zeal -in the study of Natural History prompted him, alone, unaided, and at -the risk of his life, to explore the arid plains of South America, -while yet a mere lad in years and stature, though his observations -there exhibit the close and careful study of maturer years.” - -The young traveller started on his journey of upwards of twelve -thousand miles, by sea and land, with a cash capital of forty-five -dollars, and returned home with fifty; thus proving to those who wish -to see the world that energy, industry, and economy are as potent to -assist them in their efforts as unlimited wealth. - -On his return, I requested him to furnish me with an account of his -journey; this he has been unable to do, from press of business, until -recently, when he gave me a copy of his journal, which, in a slightly -revised form, is now published. - - EDWARD A. SAMUELS. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - PASSAGE OF THE RIVER PLATA. - - Page - - The Bark M.--First Glimpses of Life in the Forecastle.--An old - Salt, and forecastle Etiquette.--A self-constituted Guardian.--Another - old Salt, and how he spliced the Main-brace.--Farewell to - Boston.--The Passage.--The tropical Seas.--The Rocks of St. - Paul’s, and their Natural History.--First Visit of the Pampero.--The - “Doctor’s” poetical Effusions. 11 - - - CHAPTER II. - - IN THE RIVER PLATA. - - We enter the River Plata.--Land.--Montevideo.--Another - Pampero.--Effects of the Hurricane.--Its Season.--We arrive at the - outer Roads at Buenos Ayres. 30 - - - CHAPTER III. - - BUENOS AYRES--THE PROVINCE AND CITY. - - Letters from Home.--A Visit to the City.--Its Population.--Thistle - Forests.--Agricultural Resources.--Public Edifices of Buenos - Ayres.--Improvements.--Soil and Water.--Slavery and its History.--Don - D. F. Sarmiento.--Paper Currency.--General Rosas - and his cruel Tyranny. 35 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL. - - A new Acquaintance.--Preparations for a Journey.--The Departure.--The - Cochero and his Vehicle.--Residence of the late - President.--Agriculture.--Fuel.--San Fernando.--Mr. Hopkins and United - States and Paraguay Navigation Company.--Yerba.--We leave the - Tigre.--Arrival at the Banda Oriental.--Wild - Dogs.--Estancia.--Departure for the Las Vacas River.--A - Revelation.--An Ignis Fatuus.--Estancia House, and Cattle Farm.--The - Proprietor at Home.--Inhospitable Reception.--The Peons.--Insulting - Treatment.--An Irishman and his Opinions.--We reach the River.--Gold - Prospects.--We return to the Tigre.--My Companion’s Fate. 49 - - - CHAPTER V. - - ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANÁ. - - Rosario.--Departure from the Tigre.--A Dialogue.--I visit the M.--The - Irish Barrister’s Son.--I return to the City.--Leave Buenos - Ayres.--Banks of the River.--El Rosario.--Schools, &c.--Enterprise - of the People.--Diligences.--The Press.--Vigilantes.--Paraná.--Its - Position.--Bank.--Railroad and its Prospects. 68 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY. - - A new Acquaintance.--An Invitation.--We set out upon the - Plains.--Incidents of the Journey.--A Pampa Lord.--We visit his - Mansion.--The House and its Inmates.--Cattle.--Niata - Breed.--Ostriches. Riding a wild Colt.--Trial of Horses.--The - Boliadores.--Estancia Life.--The Gauchos.--Duties on the Cattle - Farm.--Feast Days and Aguardiente.--Customs of the Gauchos.--Training - Colts.--The Herdsman’s Dress. 76 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - LIFE ON THE PAMPAS. - - Don José and my new Guardian.--Preparations for Departure.--Pampa - Carts.--Method of driving Oxen.--Fresh Meat.--A Santa.--Farewell - to Rosario.--The Caravan.--A Halt.--Novel Mode of - Cooking.--First Lesson in Gaucho Etiquette.--A Name.--Habits - of the Bizcacha.--Burrowing Owls.--First Night in the Pampas. 101 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - LIFE ON THE PAMPAS--CONTINUED. - - A new Dress.--Riding a Ram.--Deer.--Parrots.--Mirages.--A - Troop of Carts.--A Pantana.--Grass on fire.--Another - Caravan.--Armadillos.--Guardia de la Esquina.--A sad - Story.--Irreverence of the Peons.--Cabeza del Tigre.--Indian - Attack.--Saladillo.--I visit a Rancho.--Punta del Sauce.--Its - Inhabitants.--A geographical Dispute.--La Reduccion.--Paso - Durazno.--Cerro Moro in the distance.--Indian female Spies. 117 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO. - - Rio Quarto.--Indian Incursions.--A novel Method of charging a - Cannon.--Scarcity of Bread.--A Bath.--The Peons’ Objection to - Bathing.--Ox brain Soup.--A mule Troop.--The - Madrina.--Armadillos.--Their Habits.--A Caravan from - Mendoza.--Bread and Ovens.--Preparations for a hungry - Time.--A Prostration. 136 - - - CHAPTER X. - - FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO--CONTINUED. - - Prospects and Experiences.--The Peons’ dislike for the “Gringo.”--Fear - of Dr. Carmel.--Little Juan.--Suspicious Movements.--Sympathy - of the China Women.--Intrigue.--The Breakfast.--Don - Manuel lacks Etiquette.--Sickness.--A Dream. 152 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. - - Don Manuel the Capataz.--His Services as Baqueano.--A Mendoza - Troop of Carts.--Approach to the “Interior Town.”--Appearance - of San Luis de la Punta.--The Governor.--Indian Troubles.--A - Captive.--Indian Attack.--Treatment of Foreigners.--On the - Travesia.--Watering Places.--Cacti.--Cochineal.--Condiments.--Saline - Mineral.--Its Properties and Analysis by Dr. A. A. - Hayes.--Conjectures as to its Origin. 165 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - ON THE TRAVESIA. - - We cross the Desaguadero.--Artificial Canals.--La Paz.--Results of - Irrigation.--View of the Andes.--An Invitation to - Dinner.--Gormandizing of the Peons.--Santa Rosa.--Goats.--Alto - Verde.--Camp on the Road.--A Bath.--Goitre.--Preparations for entering - Mendoza.--The little China.--Arrogance of the Santiagueños.--Plants - of the Travesia.--Dwellings.--A Dialogue.--We enter the - Town.--An English Doctor.--Cool Treatment.--Circo Olympico.--A - Visit to Plaza Nueva. 182 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - MENDOZA. - - A Disappointment.--Mendoza.--The Alameda.--The Governor.--Houses, - Churches, &c.--Doings of the Priests.--The Confessionals.--Padre - A.--Madcap young Ladies.--Musical Bells.--Theatre.--Inhabitants.--The - Goitre.--San Vicente.--School Library.--Newspaper and Press of - Vansice.--Celebration of the 25th of May.--Soldiers.--Circus - Performers.--Arrival of Indians from the South.--Veracity of the - Cacique.--The Correo and his Men.--Casuchas.--Snow Travel.--A new - Character Introduced.--Destruction of the City.--Departure for San - Juan.--The consuming Lake.--Fishes.--Arrival at San Juan. 195 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - A WINTER IN SAN JUAN. - - At San Juan.--Wet and dry Winters.--Don Guillermo Buenaparte.--Visit - to Causete.--I become a Miller.--Natural History.--The - Mill.--New Characters.--The Scenery.--A curious Lot.--Inhabitants - of San Juan.--The Town.--Trade and Productions.--Agricultural - Tools.--Irrigation.--Don José the Penitent. 216 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - A WINTER IN SAN JUAN--CONTINUED. - - A Mine.--A new Acquaintance.--An Account of the Prowess of a - Diablo.--His Dress.--Horse’s Trappings.--The Rastreador.--His - Skill.--A Translation from Sarmiento. 229 - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - VIENTE DE ZONDA. - - Regarding the Zonda Wind.--Miers’s Opinion.--Courses of the - Zondas.--A Wind of long Duration.--South Wind.--Speculations - upon the Starting-point of the Zondas. 239 - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE. - - Don Guillermo relates his Adventures.--Leaves New Bedford.--Deserts - his Ship for another.--Rock of Dunda.--Terrapin Island.--Sufferings - and Escape from the Place.--Marquesas Islands.--Leaves the - Vessel.--Life among the Cannibals.--Cruel Fate of his - Companions.--Settles down to Marquesan Life.--A Ship.--Escape of Don - Guillermo.--Other Adventures.--Leaves Chili.--Additional Remarks. 245 - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - CROSSING THE ANDES. - - Preparations for leaving San Juan.--I leave the Mill.--The Post - House--The Minister and his friendly Offer.--The Flecha.--El - Durazno.--The Hut and its Occupants.--The Binchuca.--A bloodless - Battle.--El Sequion.--Chinas.--A Troop of Mules, and a - Night with the Capataz.--Up the Valley.--A Hut and a pretty - Señorita.--An elevated Plain.--Camp.--Sunrise in the Andes.--The - Road to Uspallata.--Don Fernando.--An Invitation.--Farewell - to Uspallata.--Indian Structures.--A sad Tale.--Cueste - de la Catedral.--La Punta de las Vacas. 277 - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - CROSSING THE ANDES--CONTINUED. - - Descent of the Andes.--Baqueano Mule.--Waiting for the Snow to - crust over.--Strange Scenery.--Below the Snow.--Another Snow-Hut.--A - Drift.--Travellers from Chili.--Preparations for ascending the - Cordillera.--Remedy for the Puna.--A hard Road.--On the Cumbre. 296 - - - CHAPTER XX. - - FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. - - Passage down the Valley.--Eyes of Water.--The Chilians and their - Characteristics.--San Rosa.--A Chilian Welcome.--A Feast.--The - River Aconcagua.--Quillota.--At Valparaiso.--Departure for Home. 305 - - - - - A THOUSAND MILES’ WALK. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. - - -One cold November morning, in compliance with previous orders, I -reported myself ready for duty at the shipping office of Messrs. S. and -K., Commercial Street, Boston, and having received, as is customary, -one month’s wages in advance, proceeded with my baggage to Battery -Wharf, at the foot of which lay the bark M., destined to be my future -home for many weeks. As but one of the crew had already gone on board, -I had ample leisure for examining the vessel, on board of which I was -to receive my first lessons in practical seamanship, and to endure -privations hitherto happily unknown to me. The M. was not prepossessing -in appearance, and I confess that her model did not give a favorable -idea of her sailing qualities: vessels, like horses, have peculiar -external points by which their virtues may be judged, and their speed -determined. As I gazed upon her long, straight sides, square bows, and -box-like hull, it seemed to me that her builders must have mistaken -her ends; for, _certes_, had her spars been reversed, she would have -made better progress by sailing stern foremost. Some knowing ones, -who have since examined this specimen of marine architecture of twenty -years ago, have sustained my suspicion that the M. belonged to that -enduring fleet of cruisers, now scattered over the great deep, which -were originally built in the State of Maine, of which report is made -that “these vessels are built by the _mile_, and sawed off according to -the length ordered by the buyer.” - -The mate, who was occupied in receiving live stock,--i. e., two young -pigs,--ordered me to stow my things “for’ard;” an order somewhat -difficult to comply with, as the forecastle was well filled with -firewood, ropes, blocks, swabs, and the various other articles used on -shipboard. - -I crawled down the dark passage, and was feeling about to discover -the dimensions of a sailor’s home, doubting, meanwhile, whether, in -reality, this narrow hole could be the abode intended for human beings, -when suddenly a gruff voice called down to me, “Come, youngster, bear a -hand! Make yourself lively! We must clean out this shop before the crew -come down; stir yourself, and pass me up the pieces.” Obeying these -peremptory commands, I applied myself to work, and in an hour’s time -my companion declared the place “ship-shape, and fit for sailors.” I -would remark, _en passant_, that this declaration was made in the face -of the fact that mould and dust covered the timbers and boards, and -cockroaches filled the many crevices. “But,” said my companion, with a -philosophical air, “if the place were carpeted, and lighted with a fine -lamp, the fellows would be the more dissatisfied; the better treated -they are, the worse they growl.” At the time I inwardly dissented from -the truth of this remark; but subsequent experiences taught me the old -salt was right. - -As I had been of service in removing all the lumber, I thought to repay -myself by securing a good bunk, and therefore chose an upper one. After -I had given it a thorough cleaning, and had carefully stowed away my -mattress and blanket, one of the new crew entered the forecastle, and, -on noticing my labors, at once removed my bed, and placed his own in -its place, remarking, at the same time, that it was a highly impolite -and lubberly action for an understrapper to “bunk down where he didn’t -belong; upper bunks were _men’s_ bunks; lower ones, boys’.” Although -I pleaded ignorance of the etiquette of the forecastle, and selected -another resting place, my shipmate continued his lecture on the rules -of the sea, and hinted at the future “rope’s-endings from the little -man aft,” as he called the mate, in store for me. - -During his harangue two or three of my old schoolfellows came aboard, -and, on visiting my quarters, remarked upon the poor accommodations and -filthiness to which I was to be doomed; upon which remark the old tar -broke out with, “And so this is a young gentleman going to sea for the -first time? O, ho! All right. I’ll be his guardian, and keep an eye on -him when he’s aloft, and, to start fair, if my opinion was asked, I’d -say we’d better go up the wharf, and splice the matter over a social -glass.” At this hint, so delicately conveyed, we gave the fellow a sum -sufficient to allay his thirst, had it been never so great, and he -at once took leave of us, only to return, however, in a few minutes, -declaring that he had lost every cent, at the same time reiterating his -offer to become my friend for a consideration. - -The noise of the tow-boat now called us on deck, where we found -a perfect Babel of confusion, caused by the throng of porters, -boarding-house runners, idlers, and sailors’ friends, who were giving -and receiving advice in quantities to last until the vessel returned -to her port. About this time I was touched on the shoulder by a -rough-looking personage in a sailor’s dress, who took me aside, and -inquired if I really intended going to sea. “Because,” said he, “if -you are, let me give you a bit of advice. I’m an old _shell_, and can -steer my trick as well as the next one; and as we’re to be shipmates, -and you’re young, all you’ve got to do is to stick close to me, and -I’ll larn yer all the moves.” After showing so kind an interest in my -affairs, he hinted, like the other man, that there was “still time -enough to step up to the house, and splice the main brace.” As I was -ignorant of this point in seamanship, I handed him some money, that -he might perform it alone, when he disappeared. I saw nothing more of -him for the next half hour; and it was only when the vessel was about -moving off that he staggered over the rail, to all appearances well -braced; and as he expressed a desire to handle all on board, from the -“old man” (the captain) “in the cabin to the doctor” (cook) “in the -galley,” I concluded that his splicing had received especial attention, -and that his strands would not unravel for several hours to come. - -These scenes on board of the M., while getting under way, were -comparatively tame to others that I have since witnessed on other -vessels. I have known men to be carried on board ship by boarding-house -keepers, who had enticed them into their dens of infamy, and who had -drugged them so powerfully that they did not recover their senses until -the vessel had left the port. In this manner, fathers of families, -mechanics, tradesmen, and other persons wholly unfitted for a sea -life have been carried off, unknown by their friends. When full -consciousness returned to the unhappy victims, they sought the officers -for an explanation, when I have seen them so beaten and kicked, that -in apprehension for their lives, they bowed in submission to a tyranny -worse than that of slavery itself. - -After lying for more than twenty-four hours, wind-bound, in the outer -harbor, all hands were called before daylight, and though the mercury -stood but a few degrees above the freezing point, the decks were washed -down; after which operation the anchor was weighed, and we set sail -out upon the bosom of the broad Atlantic. When we were fairly under -way, we were set to work stowing away chains and ropes, securing the -water casks upon deck, lashing the anchors upon the rail; then a short -breathing spell was allowed us. While looking to windward, an old -sailor, with whom I had commenced a friendship, which I was determined -to strengthen, said, “Here, boy: do you see that land, there? It is the -last you will see until we drop anchor in the River Plata.” I gazed -long upon it. It was Cape Cod. Its white sand-hills looked cold and -drear as the sea beat against their bases, some of which were smooth -and sloping, others steep and gullied by the rains. An hour after this -the breeze freshened, the light sails were taken in, and the topsails -double-reefed; and as the sea ran higher, and our little vessel grew -proportionally uneasy, I began to experience the uncomfortable nausea -and dizziness of seasickness, which, added to the repulsive smell and -closeness of the forecastle, completely overcame my fortitude, when -retiring to my bunk I tried to make myself comfortable. - -About five o’clock in the afternoon all hands were mustered upon the -quarter-deck, and the watches chosen. To my satisfaction I was selected -by the mate, and had the further gratification of finding that old -Manuel, my friend, had also been chosen for our watch--a result which -evidently delighted him as much as myself. Ours was the larboard watch, -and remained upon deck, while the captain’s, or starboard watch, went -below. The duties of sea life had now fairly commenced. - -The two hours that followed, from six to eight, were passed in a -pleasant conversation with the old Frenchman, Manuel. He informed me -that he had his eye on the moves of the crew, and he concluded that -there was but one sailor on board: it was left to my sagacity to infer -that he meant himself. - -Two of the crew, who had shipped as ordinary seamen, were ignorant -of the duties for which they had contracted, and each man in the -forecastle had shipped as an American-born citizen, with protection -papers received from the Custom House, which legally asserted him -as such. These papers they had obtained from their boarding-house -masters, who had purchased them at twenty-five cents each, and had -retailed them to their foreign customers at seventy-five cents apiece. -Of this _American_ crew, two were Germans, or Dutchmen (an appellation -given by sailors to all persons from the north of Europe), one of -unknown parentage, who could only speak a few words of English, two -Irishmen, one Englishman, another who swore point blank to being a -native-born citizen of the States, an old mariner from Bordeaux, and -myself. The law that makes it the duty of a captain to take with his -crew a certain proportion of native-born Americans, had surely not -been complied with here. To one of our crew I cannot do otherwise than -devote a few lines. - -The “doctor,” or cook, had already introduced himself, and informed us -in a short and patriotic speech, delivered at the galley door, that -he would confess that his father was a distinguished Irish barrister, -and that he himself possessed no little share of notoriety in the old -country. He had once been taken by a celebrated duchess, as she rode -past in her carriage, for a son of the Marquis of B. His amusing vanity -drew many expressions of contempt from the tars, who pronounced him to -be “an idle Irish thief,” which only served to make him wax more warm -in his assumptions of gentility. He was interrupted in the midst of a -high-flown harangue by the loud squealing of the pigs, which squealing -reminded him that his duties must not be neglected for the purpose of -edifying a crowd of ignorant tars. - -Our watch lasted until eight bells, when I went below, but had very -little appetite for supper--a meal consisting of salt beef, biscuits, -and a fluid which the cook called tea, although, on trial, I was sadly -puzzled to know how it could merit such an appellation. - -Of the three weeks which followed this first experience of nautical -life and its miseries, I can say but little, as I labored during this -period under the exhausting effects of seasickness, which reduced -me to such a degree of weakness that I once fainted on the flying -jib-boom, from which position of peril I was rescued and brought in by -my friend Manuel. But this distressing malady wore away, and at last -became altogether a memory of the past. Despite hard fare and labor, -I not only recovered my lost flesh, but grew rugged and hearty, and, -moreover, became tolerably familiar with the duties of a life at sea. - -I have alluded to our cook, and to his ineffable conceit, mock -sentimentality, and Hibernian fertility of invention. - -It was his opinion that the “low-lived fellows” on board ought to -feel highly honored by the presence in their midst of at least one -gentleman--a title which he continually arrogated to himself. I -am sorry to say, that as a cook he was not “a success.” He cared -very little about the quality of the food he served to us; and its -preparation was usually a subordinate consideration, with him, to -the indulgence of his master passion,--the perusal of highly-colored -novels,--to which he devoted every possible moment. - -In the hope of improving my wretched diet, I applied myself to the -study of this man’s character, and, having soon discovered his -assailable point, supplied him with some works of fiction more -entrancing than any he had hitherto possessed. I bought them just -before our leaving home, thinking that perhaps some such an opportunity -might offer for making a friendship with some of my messmates. His -delight at receiving them was extreme; and I received in exchange -for my favors many a dish that added a zest to my food, which it had -hitherto altogether lacked. - -Whenever I wished to be entertained with some marvellous account of -“life in the highest circles of Great Britain,” I had only to request -from the sympathetic cook a passage or two from his eventful life. It -was his constant lament that he had never kept a dialogue (diary) of -his travels, which, according to his account, must have surpassed those -of most mortals in adventure and interesting incidents. - -Of our crew, his countryman, the “boy Jim,” was his favorite. This -Jim was the red-shirted sailor who had promised to instruct me in all -the “moves” of an experienced salt, before we had left the wharf at -Boston. A very few days of our voyage, however, served to prove, that -he not only had no claim to the title of “old salt,” but also that he -had never learned to “steer a trick at the wheel.” The first order that -he received from one of the mates was, “Boy Jim, lay aloft there, and -slush down the foretop-gallant and royal masts!” Seizing a tar bucket, -and pointing aloft, he exclaimed, “Shure, sir, and which of them sticks -is it that ye mane?” thus laying bare his ignorance of all nautical -matters, and bringing on himself the ridicule of the whole ship’s crew. - -As with head winds we slowly drew near the variables, or horse -latitudes, rainy weather, accompanied by squalls of wind, commenced, -and for twenty-one days and nights we were wet to the skin: clothes, -bedding, all were saturated from the effects of a leaky deck; and -it was a common occurrence to find, on awakening from slumber, a -respectable stream of water descending into the close and crowded -forecastle. When on deck our oil clothes did not protect us, for from -our having worked in them constantly, the oil coating had worn off: -so, at the end of a watch, we wrung out our under garments, and turned -into our narrow bunks, where we quickly fell asleep, and forgot our -miseries and troubles, until we were aroused to them by the gruff voice -of some sailor of the other watch, shouting down the companion-way, -“Ay--you--Lar-bowlines--ahoy--there; eight--bells! Lay up here, -bullies, and get your duff.” Or, perhaps, “Do those fellows down there -ever intend to relieve the watch!” exclaimed in no pleasant tones by -the captain of the other watch. - -The rainy season was succeeded by as delightful weather as we could -have desired. A fair wind sprang up a few days before crossing the -line, and with straining canvas we sped on towards Buenos Ayres. The -days passed pleasantly, and our duties became light and agreeable. -Enjoyable as were these tranquil days, the nights were still lovelier -in those latitudes. The moon seemed to shine with an unwontedly pure -and spiritual light, and with a brightness known only to the clear -atmosphere of the tropics. - -As we glided along, night after night, under a firmament studded with -countless lights, and over a broad expanse ruffled with short, dark -waves curling crisply into foam, I could hardly conceive a scene of -more quiet beauty. Standing upon the forecastle deck, a glorious vision -frequently met our gaze: a phosphorescent light gleamed beneath the -bows, and streamed along the sides and in the vessel’s wake, looking -like a train of liquid gems to the imaginative observer. If we looked -aloft to the white canvas of our wide-spread sails, we seemed borne -along by some gigantic bird, of which the sails were the powerful -wings, to the distant horizon, in which were the Southern Cross and -other larger constellations, burning, like beacon lamps, leading us on -to our destined port. - -During these days and nights our attention was not unfrequently -attracted to the dwellers in the deep, which were constantly sporting -around us. Schools of black-fish and porpoises continually crossed our -track; and large numbers of flying-fish often shot across our bows, -sometimes leaving at our mercy a few stragglers upon the decks. - -Upon such nights as I have described, when acting as lookout by the -windlass bits, old Manuel frequently came to my side, and conversed -upon the various topics connected with his past life, which had been an -eventful one. He was born in Bordeaux. His mother died when he was an -infant, leaving him to the care of his father, who owned and commanded -a small vessel engaged in the coasting trade. - -While very young, Manuel preferred playing about the streets of his -native city, and hiding, with other boys, among the vines which covered -his father’s dwelling, to following any plan of education proposed by -his father. Under the direction of an uncle, however, he attended -school when nine years old, and learned to read and write during the -two succeeding years. So rapid was his progress, that the uncle, who -was wealthy, offered to defray his expenses if he would fit himself -for the university; but Manuel preferred following the fortunes of -his father for a season, and accordingly sailed with him along the -coasts of France and Spain. But the voyage was not destined to be a -pleasant one. The boy was continually offending his father, who was a -cold and unlovable man; and one afternoon, while performing certain -antics upon the main-topsail-yard-arm, the old gentleman called him -down, and rewarded his exertions with a lusty application of the end -of the main sheet, which rope’s-ending was not to Manuel’s taste. -He availed himself of the first opportunity, deserted the vessel, -and joined a fine ship sailing to Havana. Before reaching Cuba he -had become acquainted with the ropes, and not wishing to return to -his parent until time had soothed his outraged feelings, he left the -ship, and became a destitute wanderer in a foreign land. He was at -that time twelve years of age. Being led into bad company, he joined -a slaver, bound for the west coast of Africa. The _galota_ in which -he sailed reached the Rio Congo, and received on board nine hundred -negroes, nearly all of whom were landed safely in Cuba. His wages, as -boy, amounted to fifty dollars per month; but, though engaged in so -profitable an undertaking, his sense of right caused him to leave his -unprincipled associates, and to seek employment elsewhere. Since that -time he had served beneath the flag of nearly every maritime nation, -and had also fought in the China wars. For thirteen years he had -sailed from Boston and New York, choosing the American republic as his -adopted country, for which he was willing, as he declared, to shed his -best blood, should necessity require. - -While conversing with Manuel, one morning before sunrise, I was -surprised by his suddenly jumping to his feet and scanning the horizon. -At length he exclaimed, “There is a sight you may never see again. I -have crossed the line many times in this longitude, but never beheld -that before to-day!” At this moment the mate, who had been keeping -a long lookout, disappeared below, returning in a moment with the -captain. Looking in the direction pointed out by the old sailor, I -discerned far away to the south-south-east, broken water; and, as the -daylight advanced, we were soon able to distinguish two detached and -rugged rocks, rising out of the sea, together with many smaller peaks -rising out of the water around them. One of these bore a striking -resemblance to a sugar-loaf. This group was the St. Paul’s Rocks. When -first seen they appeared dark and drear; but, as our vessel approached -them, we discovered that the excrements of myriads of sea-fowl, -with which they were covered, had made them of a glistening white, -presenting a strange appearance, not wholly devoid of the picturesque. -Here, at no less a distance than five hundred and forty miles from the -continent of South America, these peaks, the summits of mountains whose -bases are planted in unfathomed depths, arise. - -The rocks lie in longitude twenty-nine degrees fifteen minutes west, -and are only fifty-eight miles north of the equator. The highest -peak rises but fifty feet above the sea, and is not more than three -quarters of a mile in circumference. - -These isolated rocks have been visited by a few persons only. Darwin, -the naturalist, made a thorough investigation into their natural -history. Among birds, the booby gannet and noddy tern were found; -both species being very tame, depositing their eggs and rearing their -young in great numbers. Darwin, in his account of the tenants of -these rocky islets, observes, “It was amusing to watch how quickly a -large and active crab (_Grapsus_), which inhabits the crevices of the -rocks, stole the fish from the side of the nest, as soon as we had -disturbed the parent birds. Sir W. Symonds, one of the few persons who -have landed here, informs me that he saw these crabs dragging even -the young birds out of the nests, and devouring them. Not a single -plant, nor even lichen, grows on this islet; yet it is inhabited by -several insects and spiders. The following list completes, I believe, -the terrestrial fauna: A fly (_Olfersia_), living on the booby, and a -tick, which must have come here as a parasite on the birds; a small -brown moth, belonging to a genus that feeds on feathers; a beetle -(_Quedius_), and a wood-louse from beneath the dung; and, lastly, -numerous spiders, which, I suppose, prey on these small attendants and -scavengers of the water-fowl.” - -I afterwards met, among the many roving characters with whom the -traveller becomes acquainted, a person, who, in his younger days, had -been engaged not only in privateering, but also in the lucrative, -though inhuman, slave traffic. He knew of many instances when slavers -and freebooters had been obliged to visit St. Paul’s from necessity, -not only for the purpose of securing the rain-water that is caught in -the cavities and depressions in the rock, but also to procure a supply -of the fish which play about the islets in large schools, or, more -properly, perhaps, shoals, or schules. - -Although our vessel was built before the age of clippers, and -consequently made slow progress through the water, St. Paul’s was far -astern by ten o’clock. A fresh breeze sprang up, and, as it continued -fair, we were wafted along smoothly day after day towards our destined -port. - -At length the sudden changes of the atmosphere, and careful -consultations of the officers, and admonitions “to keep a bright -lookout ahead,” warned the forecastle hands that we were nearing the -Rio Plata, the great _River of Silver_, whose broad mouth we were soon -to enter, there to gaze upon the shores of another continent. - -The nights seemed cooler, and the beautiful appearance of the heavens, -as the sun, with a broader disk, sank beneath the western horizon, -particularly attracted our attention. As it slowly disappeared, clouds -of many varied hues gathered above it like heavy drapery, as if to -conceal its flight; while others, taking the form of long ranges of -mountains, with here and there a tall peak towering up into the clearer -firmament, presented a panorama of exquisite beauty and grandeur. -But all evenings were not of this description. Sometimes the heavens -darkened, and for two or three hours not a breath of air moved the -murky atmosphere. Long, dark swells came rolling towards us from the -south-east, sure indicators of the distant _pampero_, the hurricane -of La Plata. When these swells were visible, the crew at once became -active: every light sail was snugly furled, and the topsails double -reefed, for our captain was a prudent man, who had sailed long enough -in these latitudes to know the fearful devastation that is often -occasioned by the _pampero_. Before our voyage terminated we had an -opportunity to appreciate this trait in his seamanship. - -One afternoon, when within four or five days’ sail of the mouth of the -Plata, the sky became overcast with murky clouds, while the distant -thunder and lightning in the south-west warned us of the proximity of -the hurricane. “All hands” were called and we hurried to our stations; -but before everything could be made snug aloft, a fierce shower of -hail descended, pelting us mercilessly; and glad enough we were to get -below, at four bells, to supper. The wind increased, and blew very hard -for an hour or more, when it became calmer; but still the heavy sea -came rolling towards us, making our stout bark toss and pitch about as -if old Neptune were irritated at her sluggish ways. We congratulated -ourselves at our easy escape from the _pampero_, but we should have -remembered the old saying, “Never shout until you are out of the wood.” - -As we were below, discussing various subjects, we were joined by -the cook, who descended the ladder, requesting the loan of a novel, -declaring that he was dying by inches of the “onwy.” “Get out of -this, you and your trash!” shouted an old tar: “this is no place for -distinguished characters.” - -But the “doctor” did not appear to be disconcerted in the least at -this rude salutation and reference to his pretensions. - -“Ah, boys!” he exclaimed, with a touch of sentimentality, “how can ye -be so boistherous? Here we are, every hour dhrawing nearer and nearer -to that mighty river which runs past Buenos Ayres; and does not the -thought of it inspire ye with romantic feelings? As for meeself, I can -scarce slape at night for the ecstatic thoughts that crowd me brain. -Ye may all laugh,” he continued, as some of the sailors interrupted -him with a boisterous laugh, “but it does not alter the case in the -laste, for it is thrue. To-night, when I was standing in the galley, -the thought came to me, that perhaps the boy here,” pointing to myself, -“would like a few stanzas of poetry for his dialogue (diary), which he -is keeping; so I, in my mind, composed a few lines, which, if he wants, -I will recite to him.” - -At this, some of the sailors exclaimed, “Get out of this, for a dirty -sea-cook as you are, and don’t attempt to spoil sensible people.” - -I, however, said that I would be pleased to receive his stanzas, and, -preparing my pencil and paper, wrote down the following lines as he -recited them, together with the interpolations and remarks of the -sailors. Striking a beatific attitude, the poet began:-- - - “I saw her; yes, I saw her.” - -_Old Salt_ (gruffly). “What if you did? If she saw you, she sickened, I -dare swear!” - -_The Doctor_ (continuing). - - “Tripping along so gayly, - With mantilla fluttering in the wind.” - -_Old Salt 2d._ “Shaking in the wind’s eye, in a squall.” - -_The Doctor._ - - “Eyes like a dove’s in mildness, - Or an eagle’s in its wildness.” - -_Old Salt 1st._ “More like a hen’s with one chicken.” - -_Old Salt 3d._ “Or a sick rooster with one tail-feather.” - -_The Doctor._ - - “Smiles they were sweet, - Lips together did meet.” - -_Old Salt 1st_ (dubiously). “Lips together did meet? I wonder, mateys, -if she wasn’t smacking them after a glass of grog?” - -_The Doctor._ - - “Clamors of war and terrible drums, - Noise of trumpets and the hum of tongues, - Can frighten the timid, but not her; - For brave as a lion, dauntless as fire, - She’s ruled by love, and not by ire.” - -Here some of the sailors pretended to faint; others reeled off to their -bunks, saying that the doctor’s poetry was “worse than his duff, and -that wasn’t fit to give a measly hog;” while one old follow ascended to -the deck, declaring that he “couldn’t sleep after hearing such blasted -nonsense, until he had taken a salt junk emetic.” - -The doctor would have continued his poetry, notwithstanding the -ridicule of the “low, ignorant fellows,” as he called them; but he was -interrupted by the voice of the mate, calling down to the cook to -“doctor the binnacle lamp,” when the poet hurried up the companion-way, -leaving me to turn in, and dream of - - “Lips that together did meet, - Clamors of wars, and terrible drums,” - -until the man at the wheel struck eight bells. - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - IN THE RIVER PLATA. - - -At length the day for making preparations for nearing land arrived. -One fine afternoon the order was given to have everything ready -for entering the river. All hands were kept on deck, and every one -manifested an unusual readiness to work. The lashings were cut adrift -from the anchors; the chain drawn out of the locker, and overhauled -upon the deck; and the other matters attended to, which are not to be -neglected on a ship about coming to an anchorage. Towards night, the -changing color of the water, which in the deep ocean is of a dark blue, -but which had now become of a greenish tinge, told us of the proximity -of land. - -At sunrise of the next morning, the cry of, “Land on the starboard -bow!” awoke me from a sound slumber. Hurrying on deck, I was able to -discover a faint streak of red in the distant horizon, which a sailor -declared to be “the loom of the land;” and by eight o’clock the low -shores of the Uruguayan republic were distinctly visible from our deck, -and the monotony of our sea life was at an end. - -As it was necessary to take a pilot on board, we were obliged to first -make Montevideo, the great seaport of the Banda Oriental, or Uruguayan -republic, which country, as most of my readers are doubtless aware, -was formerly a constant bone of contention between Buenos Ayres and -Brazil, but is now independent of both, and according to all accounts -promises to become the greatest producer of wool of the South American -republics. - -A light breeze wafted us past the rocky isle of Flores to Montevideo, -where, about dusk, we dropped anchor at a distance of three miles from -the shore. - -While aloft, I had time to observe that a conical mountain, with smooth -sides, and crowned by an old fort, was connected with the main land by -a peninsula, in such a manner that a fine bay was formed, where a large -fleet of vessels were lying at anchor. The fort on the mount showed a -light, four hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of the sea. -The town lies on the opposite side of the bay, to the eastward of the -mountain, from which fact it derives its name. - -By the time the sails were furled, and several additional ranges of -chain overhauled, night came on, and the anchor watch was set, with -orders to call the mate if it lightened in the south-west, the region -of _pamperos_. - -My watch was from nine to ten: when I was relieved, I went below with a -light heart, and “turned in” to my bunk, with the prospect of unbroken -rest. It was perhaps an hour later that I was awakened by the confused -sounds on deck, caused by the “letting go” the second anchor, and the -loud calling down the companion-way for “all hands on deck.” Hurrying -above, we found that a _pampero_ had struck the vessel, which was -moving through the water at the rate of at least four miles an hour -before the force of the hurricane. When the second anchor became fast, -however, the vessel’s course was checked, she swung around, broadside -to the wind, and held her ground. The force of the wind striking our -backs was so great that we were obliged to take shelter beneath the -bulwarks to recover our breath. - -The darkness was intense, save when flashes of lightning illumined -every headland along the coast, and threw out in bold relief the -mountain and its castle. But duty called us from the protection of -the bulwarks to the chain lockers. Vainly, however, did the officers -vociferate their commands; not a word could we understand; but we -instinctively laid hold of the chain, and, guided by flashes of -lightning, paid out many fathoms. Hardly had we accomplished our object -in giving scope to the cable, when a noise like thunder announced -that one of the sails, the main spencer, had broken adrift, and in an -instant it beat and clattered across the quarter-deck. From side to -side it tore, cutting the rigging to pieces, with the block at its -clew. Half an hour’s labor was ineffectual in securing the sail, though -ends of braces were strongly passed around it; it continually broke -loose, tumbling upon the deck all the men who were clinging to it, and -we might have labored much longer, had not Manuel crawled aloft, and -cut the sail adrift, by coming down the jack-stay, knife in hand. - -The spencer had not been securely fastened before from between the -harness-casks, the mizzen staysail, which had been carefully furled, -seemed endowed with life, for in an instant it ran up its stay like a -bird, and was at once torn to shreds. - -At this point the prospect was fair for a wreck. The captain brought -an axe on deck to prepare for the last resort. But such a fierce wind -fortunately could not last long; its own force must prove exhaustive: -it soon came only in gusts, and two hours later it had greatly subsided. - -The scene now around us challenged our attention; and, until morning, -I leaned across the rail, completely engrossed with the many curious -phenomena before me. - -The air was filled with electrical flashes, which at times rendered the -tall mount plainly visible, and brought out the spars of the fleet in -the bay in weird-like prominence against the gloomy background. - -The fort on the height seemed clothed with flame, while the short, -quick waves around the vessel gleamed with phosphorescent light. The -_pampero_ had struck the vessel during the watch succeeding mine, and -the man on duty became so frightened that he did not call the mate. -Luckily, that officer discovered the true state of affairs in time to -prevent a serious disaster. - -The dawn of the following morning revealed a sight such as might be -expected after so violent a hurricane. In one part of the harbor were -two vessels, whose crews were hard at work in clearing them from the -entanglement of their rigging, which was completely wrecked. - -Close by lay two others, with their topmasts gone, and in the distance -were many others in a similar condition; while from the town came -floating logs, boxes, barrels, and other lumber in great quantities, -telling of the havoc of the _pampero_. - -The effect of the wind was even felt to a greater extent farther up the -river, where some fifteen or twenty small vessels were capsized, and -many of the crews drowned. - -A new and beautiful English bark, that had left her anchorage for -Buenos Ayres the night before, we saw two days afterwards; but she was -nothing but a dismantled hulk, with only the stump of her mizzenmast -left: every spar had been blown away, and one of her men killed by a -falling mast. - -Though the _pampero_ season generally lasts from March to September, -this wind is likely to blow at any time; and a careful captain will -always be prepared for it. The state of the mercury in his barometer, -together with the appearance of the heavens in the south-west, must -be carefully watched. These winds, coming from the cold summits of -the Andes, sweep first across an undulating, then a flat country; -and, meeting no obstacle to break their force, do great damage to the -settlements about Buenos Ayres, as well as to the shipping in the River -Plata, and are felt many miles out to sea. - -The River Plata, at its entrance, between Cape St. Mary on the north -coast, and Cape St. Antonio on the south, is one hundred and seventy -miles; and we can see that the _pampero_, in traversing this broad -channel, has a most unobstructed course. - -At noon a pilot came aboard, bearing a letter from the owner’s agent; -and at about eleven o’clock the following night we hove up both -anchors, and, with a fine breeze, sailed up the river. Thirty-six hours -later, we dropped anchor in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, seven -or eight miles from the city, whose plastered dwellings and lofty -cathedral were plainly seen from the decks of our vessel. - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - BUENOS AYRES.--THE PROVINCE AND CITY. - - -For a whole month I was obliged to remain by the vessel, awaiting the -arrival of the orders that were to set me free. During this period, to -prepare the vessel for a long stay, the lighter spars were sent down, -the flying jib-boom sent in, sails unbent, &c. The tides in the River -Plata are governed by the wind, and have no regularity in rising; the -current of the river is at the rate of three miles per hour. Vessels -drawing above eleven feet of water remain in the outer roads, while -smaller craft can approach within two or three miles of the city; -all of these discharge and receive their cargoes by the assistance -of lighters, generally schooner-rigged, and principally manned by -foreigners,--chiefly French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese. - -At last, about the 20th of February, a Boston vessel entered the river, -bringing letters from home, and I was gratified by the information from -the captain, that, after seeing the American consul, who had received -orders to discharge me from duty, I should be at liberty to depart on -my long pedestrian journey. I went ashore at the earliest opportunity, -and at once called upon Colonel Joseph Graham, the American consul, -who received me with great kindness, but condemned my intention of -crossing, alone, so wild a country, with the people and language -of which I had no acquaintance; he, however, furnished me with the -necessary papers of protection, together with letters of introduction -to various persons in the interior. During my stay in the consul’s -office Dr. Henry Kennedy, a young North American physician, came in, -and although a stranger to me, presented me, after a few minutes’ -conversation, with a letter of introduction to Mr. G--n, a resident of -Rosario. This act of kindness towards a stranger proved the generous -character of Dr. Kennedy, and it is with a feeling of gratitude that I -recall his name here. I was now my own master, and at once went about -the city in search of information relative to crossing the country. - -The consul and one or two other parties had given me the names of -persons to whom I was to apply for the necessary information to guide -me in my journey. I was surprised, however, to find that the foreign -merchants knew so little of the interior; for, after several days’ -inquiry, the principal fact that I learned was, that to cross the -pampas on foot it would be necessary to accompany one of the troops of -carts that carried merchandise to the other provinces, as otherwise I -would find it impossible to obtain food or to follow the right trail. -One of my informants was a stout little Irish gentleman, who quoted a -message sent to Sir Woodbine Parish, by a gentleman who crossed the -country several years before; and as his description is almost true of -the Buenos Ayrean, or southern road across the pampas, I will present -it here. He said, “The country is more uninteresting than any I ever -travelled over, in any quarter of the globe. I should divide it into -five regions; first, that of thistles, inhabited by owls and biscachas; -second, that of grass, where you meet with deer, ostriches, and the -screaming, horned plover; third, the region of swamps and morasses, -only fit for frogs; fourth, that of stones and ravines, where I -expected every moment to be upset; and, last, that of ashes and thorny -shrubs, the refuge of the tarantula and binchuco, or giant-bug. - -“And now,” continued the little Irishman, “I ask leave to put you a -question. How many days can you conveniently go without water?” - -“Two or three, perhaps,” I replied. - -“Well, then, you will never last to cross the plains,” was his -encouraging answer; “for, mark you, a merchant of this city crossed -last summer, and went without water for _twenty-one days_. I think you -had better return to America, and give up travelling for information.” - -Such were the stories--some true, and many, like that of the Irishman, -utterly fabulous--that were told me by the different individuals upon -whom I called during my short stay in Buenos Ayres. In the course of -my inquiries I learned that a train of wagons would shortly leave -Rosario, a small town upon the River Paraná, about two hundred miles -north of Buenos Ayres, for Mendoza, a town situated at the base of the -Andes, and I resolved to visit the place in time to catch the caravan. -A steamboat plied between the city of Buenos Ayres and Rosario, but as -it was not to sail for a fortnight, I had ample time for surveying the -adjacent country, and even for making a flying visit across the Plata -to the Banda Oriental. - -The State of Buenos Ayres usually monopolizes the attention of visitors -to the region which is known as the Argentine Confederation, on account -of her favorable situation on the seaboard, her possession of the -only maritime port in the vast confederacy, and the predominating -influence which these advantages have secured to her in peace as well -as in war. The state contains an area of fifty-two thousand square -miles, and is, consequently, but little larger than the State of New -York. Her population, according to an estimate formed some ten years -since, amounted to some three hundred and twenty thousand souls; of -whom one hundred and twenty thousand are inhabitants of the city, while -the remainder are sparsely distributed over the extensive plains that -commence a few miles from the coast, and, running inland, stretch -across and far beyond the limits of the state. The population of the -city itself is composed of a great variety of types and colors, among -which, however, the whites are rapidly predominating; as every year -introduces new blood from Europe and North America, while parties -interested are doing their best, in connection with the government, -to divert a portion of the Irish immigration from the United Slates -towards their own province. The government furnishes immigrants with -land free of charge, but an extortionate price is not unfrequently -paid, in the end, for a farm. - -The study of the mixed races which inhabit, not only this province, -but also the entire region between the Paraná and the Cordillera, has -as yet received but little attention from the student of ethnology. -The lines of demarcation, however, between race and race, are clear -and distinct; and the future ethnographer of this region will have no -difficulty in tracing the population, through its intermediate stages -of gauchos, zambas, mestizos, etc., to its origin with the immigration -from Old Spain and other European countries, and to the aboriginal and -negro stocks. - -Throughout the state the soil is richly alluvial to a depth of two or -more feet, beneath which lies a stratum of clay, differing in kind -and quality according to its location. Thus strata of white, yellow, -and red clays have been discovered in different regions of the same -province, furnishing the population with abundant material for the -manufacture of tiles, bricks, and innumerable articles of pottery. - -For nearly two hundred miles west of the La Plata, the soil produces a -luxuriant growth of herbage, which is choked, however, in many places, -by extensive _forests_ of gigantic thistles, which grow to such a -height that men, passing through them on horseback, are hidden by the -lofty stems. So heavy is this growth that, at times, the thistle fields -are impassable to man, and serve to the wild animals of the pampas as -an undisturbed lair. These thistles are fired, from time to time, by -the gauchos; after the ground that they covered has been burnt over, -a fine sweet crop of grass starts up, upon which the cattle feed -luxuriantly. - -A native author, of eminent accuracy, who has carefully studied the -statistics and resources of the province of Buenos Ayres, has published -the following estimate of the value of real estate and other property -in the country, in 1855:-- - - -_State of Buenos Ayres, its Extent, Value, &c_ - - Fifty-two thousand miles of uncultivated - lands, at $1000 per square mile, $52,000,000 - Six million head of cattle, at $6 per head, 36,000,000 - Three million mares, at $1 per head, 3,000,000 - Five million sheep, at $1 per head, 5,000,000 - Half a million swine, at $1 per head, 500,000 - Houses, &c., in the country, 10,000,000 - ------------ - Total value, $106,500,000 - -The following statement, derived from the Buenos Ayres Custom House, -for the first six months of 1854, may serve as a means of estimating -the number of horned cattle in the state:-- - - Hides exported in six months, 1854, 759,968 - Deduct quantity received from the provinces, 121,166 - --------- - Total exports of Buenos Ayres hides, in six - months, 638,802 - --------- - Add a corresponding six months’ exports - for balance of the year, 638,802 - --------- - Estimated export for 1854, 1,277,604 - -The following were some of the agricultural productions of Buenos Ayres -in 1854, as computed by Señor Maezo:-- - - Wheat, 200,000 fanezas. - Maize and barley, 70,000 ” - Potatoes, 60,000 ” - -The _faneza_ is nearly equal to four English imperial bushels, or to -2218.192 cubic inches. - -Of late years the value of provisions, hides, tallow, and horns has -been greatly enhanced. - -I am informed that under the government of General Rosas, the price of -beef was fixed by law at fifteen cents per arroba (twenty-five pounds), -and that the severest punishment was inflicted for any attempt to evade -or infringe upon the regulation. The price of beef during my stay in -the province was never less than sixty cents per arroba. - -Frequent revolutions have naturally hindered, in a very great degree, -the development of the resources of this province. Since 1810-11 it -has been subjected to continual and sudden changes of government: at -one moment, as it were, attempting to form the cornerstone of a vast -confederation, in a short time the scene of the wildest anarchy, and -soon prostrate under one of the most grinding despotisms that the -nineteenth century has beheld. - -Buenos Ayres, the richest and most powerful of the provinces of La -Plata, holds herself aloof from the remainder, preferring a state of -isolation, through dislike for President Urquiza, to joining with -her sister states in laying the foundation of a strong and permanent -confederacy. Her import and export duties, together with port charges, -stamps, direct taxes, &c., constitute a considerable revenue; and -these resources would, undoubtedly, give her a powerful influence over -the other states should she finally become a part of the Argentine -Confederation. Though a coolness, almost amounting to ill-will, -is manifested by the people of Buenos Ayres towards those of the -neighborhood provinces, a treaty has been lately signed by the two -governments, in which each promises aid and assistance to the other in -case of attack from a neighboring or foreign power. It is evident, from -their careful movements, that all the La Plata states stand in dread of -their grasping and powerful neighbor--the empire of Brazil. - -The city of Buenos Ayres is laid out in the usual Spanish-American -manner--in squares, measuring one hundred and fifty yards upon a side; -the streets, of course, cross each other at right angles, and run due -north and south, east and west. They are regular throughout, but are -very roughly paved. With some exceptions the dwellings are of but -one story in height, and are built of brick, overlaid with a white -plaster, which gives them a very neat appearance; but the heavy iron -gratings with which every window is protected detract not a little from -the beauty of the dwellings; and a stranger unaccustomed to Spanish -architecture may readily, at the first sight of these forbidding -gratings, believe himself among the prisons of the city. The roofs are -covered with oval or square tiles. - -Buenos Ayres is rich in public institutions. Her theatres and places -of public resort are eight in number, besides the governor’s mansion, -the House of Representatives, and the Casa de Justicia, or Hall of -Justice. Besides these may be enumerated the Tribunal of Commerce, the -Inspection of Arms, the Artillery Arsenal, the Ecclesiastical Seminary, -the Museum of Natural History, Public Library, Custom House, Mint, -Bank, and Jail. - -The treatment of the inmates of the latter institution secures for -them a degree of comfort far less than that which is reached in our own -reformatory institutions. - -In addition to the public buildings enumerated above, there are also -suites of rooms occupied by the Ecclesiastical Court, the General -Archives, Topographical Department, Statistical Department, Medical -Academy, Historical Institute, etc. - -The citizens of Buenos Ayres have well provided for the unfortunate. -Besides granting licenses to mendicants, and allowing them to go from -door to door _on horseback_, the municipality has established an asylum -for orphans and a foundling hospital. - -Besides the cathedral, there are thirteen Catholic churches, two -monasteries, and three convents. There are two hospitals, one for -males, the other for females; but these institutions have neither the -conveniences nor skilful physicians which those of more enlightened -or longer established countries possess. There are also three foreign -hospitals, supported by the English, French, and Italian governments. - -The _plazas_, or public squares, are nine or ten in number; one of -them is overlooked by the lofty cathedral and by the Casa de Justicia, -and contains a monument, erected in commemoration of past events of -national importance, and especially of the Declaration of Independence -from the mother country. - -Many improvements have been made in the city in late years, chief among -which is the new brick seawall, of considerable height, protecting the -town from damage by high tides of the river. - -From this wall, projecting into the stream, there was in process of -construction at the time of my arrival a mole or wharf, of great -length, which has since been completed, enabling small vessels and -lighters to discharge their cargoes unassisted by the clumsy carts that -formerly were the sole means of communication with the shore. The piles -that support this wharf are pointed with iron, a precaution rendered -necessary by the peculiarly hard formation of the river bed at this -locality. - -As the soil is impregnated with nitrate of potash, the well and other -water is rendered unfit for table use. The wealthier citizens have deep -cisterns at their residences, in which rain water is preserved; but the -poorer classes have no other beverage than the river water, which is -carried around the city in barrels, upon horses and mules, and retailed -at a moderate price. - -Slavery, which existed in these regions in a mild form until 1813, -was, during that year, abolished by law. The system never assumed, in -point of fact, that form which existed in our own republic, but was so -lenient that the slaves were treated rather as children, or favorite -servants, than as merely so much property. - -Its gradual extinction set in many years before the period of -legislation upon the subject. During the struggle for independence, the -slave frequently fought side by side with his master, and manifested an -equal anxiety with him to be liberated from the dominion of Spain. In -consideration of services rendered during these patriotic struggles, -and from a conviction that the system was far from beneficial to a -newly-organized republic, the slaves were emancipated, and their -descendants now form a valuable and active class, retaining little of -the indolence usually ascribed to the unfortunate races from which they -sprung. - -During the ascendency of Rosas, the negro population was devotedly -attached to Doña Mañuelita, his celebrated daughter, and their -influence with her was almost boundless. It is related that in 1840, -while an attack by Lavalle was momentarily expected, a young man from -the town of San Juan was in Buenos Ayres, and was forbidden, under -pain of death, to leave the city. An aged negress, who had, in former -years, been in the service of his family, happened to recognize him, -and learned his anxiety to depart. “All right, my friend!” she said; “I -will go at once, and get you a passport.” “Impossible!” exclaimed the -young man. “Not at all,” replied the negress. “La Señorita Mañuelita -will not deny it to me.” - -In a quarter of an hour she brought a passport, signed by Rosas, -enjoining his mercenaries to oppose no hinderance to the bearer’s -departure. - -Thus gained over by petty favors from the all-powerful dictator, the -negroes formed a corps of zealous spies and adherents of Rosas, whose -secret observations were carried on in the very midst of the families -whom he suspected. They also formed a brigade of excellent troops, on -whose fidelity he was able to rely at all times. - -Don Domingo F. Sarmiento, from one of whose works the above anecdote -is derived, is one of the most enlightened patriots and philosophers -of South America. He is a native of San Juan, a town in the interior -of the Confederation, but has travelled extensively in Europe and the -United States, and was for many years a resident of Chili, whither -he was banished by Rosas in 1840. He has done much by his writings to -advance a practical knowledge both of the principles of agriculture -and of education in his native country, and is earnestly endeavoring -to secure the cooperation of the government and legislature of Buenos -Ayres in the advancement of those sciences. He desires to see some -portion of the European emigration diverted from the United States to -Buenos Ayres, the government of which province, indeed, offers land -freely to all who will settle in the interior; and he has recently -published, among other valuable works, a treatise on agriculture and -education, entitled “_Plan combinado de Educacion comun, Silvicultura -e Industria Pastoril_,” especially designed for the province of Buenos -Ayres. He is also translating into Spanish the writings of Adams, -Jefferson, and others of our early statesmen, which we may hope will -enlighten the Spanish republics of South America on a subject that they -seem at best to very imperfectly understand. - -A word concerning the currency of this province, and I will dismiss it -from the reader’s attention. Rosas, before he was driven from power, -established a paper currency, which, being of small nominal value, was -intended to supply the place of coin. These bills were struck off with -the value of from one to several hundred _pesos_ stamped upon them. But -their value fluctuated to such an extent, that while at one time one -Spanish dollar could purchase twenty _pesos_, a few weeks later not -eight could be obtained with the same sum. At the present time a _peso_ -is valued at four or five cents of our money. - -It is said that the president, having put this currency into -circulation, realized thousands of dollars from it by monopolizing -the money market, and causing the paper to rise or depreciate at his -pleasure. I have seen a four-_real_ piece coined by him, or by order -of his government (which amounted to the same thing), with these words -stamped upon it: “Eterno Rosas” (Eternal Rosas). This man was, in every -sense of the word, a tyrant--cool, calculating, and selfish; possessed -of a degree of cunning and penetration, that aided him in discovering -his most secret enemies. Ruthless in the execution of his designs, he -spared neither age nor sex; even the venerable mayor, his earliest -friend, his more than father, was murdered in cold blood by a party -of _masorgueros_ (men of the Masorca, or club, a band of butchers and -assassins, on whom Rosas relied for the perpetuation of his reign of -terror), at the bidding of their atrocious chief. - -In a work published at Montevideo, in 1845, by Don José Rivera Indarte, -a native of Buenos Ayres, he gives the following estimate of the -numbers who died through the hatred or caprice of Rosas: Poisoned, 4; -executed with the sword, 3765; shot, 1393; assassinated, 722,--total, -5884. Add this to the numbers slain in battle, and those executed by -military orders, at a moderate computation 16,520, we have 22,404 -victims. If we deduct from this--allowing some latitude for the -prejudices of Señor Indarte--one third for exaggeration, we still have -14,936,--a fearful aggregate of victims to the ambition of a Gaucho -chief. - -But his career has ended; the exiled patriots have returned from Brazil -and Chili, and in place of his there exists another, and, it is to be -hoped, a better, government. He was at one time the absolute ruler of -his country; and his long and cruel reign has left an effect upon its -inhabitants which many years of wise legislation alone can eradicate. - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL. - - -The steamer in which I expected to embark for Rosario, on the Paraná -River, would not sail from Buenos Ayres for ten days or a fortnight, -and I began to look around me for some occupation, by means of which -I might become more acquainted with the localities about the city. I -was eager to visit the gaucho in his home upon the pampas; and when a -young man, who had just arrived from New York, invited me to accompany -him across the Plata to the Republic of Uruguay, I did not wait for a -second invitation, but accepted his offer upon the spot. - -I knew nothing more of this young man than that he had come to Buenos -Ayres recommended to the first merchant of the place; but that his -purpose for the visit was a secret one, I did not at the time suspect. -He prepared himself for the journey by simply providing himself with a -large blanket, a revolver pistol, and a _sounding-rod_. The first two -articles seemed rational enough; but the rod, which he carried as a -cane, required an explanation. - -We received from a countryman a letter of introduction to Edward -Hopkins, Esq., who was about to sail in the “Asuncion” for the north -side of the river. This gentleman was at the River Tigre, twenty-one -miles from Buenos Ayres, and acted as agent for the United States and -Paraguay Navigation Company. As there was no other way for crossing the -Plata to the particular part of the coast where my friend wished to -land, he decided to visit the Tigre, and embark in the Asuncion. - -Having bargained for seats with the driver of the diligence that ran -between Buenos Ayres and the village of San Fernando, near the Tigre, -we set out one fine morning, accompanied by a native gentleman, who -spoke English imperfectly. - -Our _cochero_ was a conceited fellow, and felt the dignity of office to -an unnecessary degree. We had no little amusement during our journey -with him in watching the phases of his character: once, when the cart -of a milkman became entangled in the harness of our horses, he became -so laughable in his wounded pride and impotent rage, that we had -difficulty in restraining our faces to a decently sober appearance. As -we became disentangled, and drove on, he, in the midst of a volley of -_carrambas_, denounced all cartmen who had the impudence to cross the -track of the mail-coach. And such, in fact, his vehicle was; but, as we -noticed that the contents of the mail, instead of being confined in a -mail-bag, or other suitable receptacle, were scattered here and there -in various corners of the coach, some tucked beneath the cushions, and -others lying under our feet, the opinion that we formed of the native -postal arrangements was not of the highest. - -For nearly a league we passed over a Macadamized road, shaded here and -there by willows that ran along the river. We soon passed the deserted -_quinta_ of General Rosas. The house was built upon arches, the -materials being brick and plaster. Around it were artificial groves, -and little lakes and canals of water. - -To the right of the house, on the side nearest the city, were numerous -little brick buildings, where the tyrant quartered his troops. The -situation was very beautiful, and the surroundings altogether were -interesting. - -Farther on were _casas_ (houses) of country gentlemen, with orchards of -peach, olive, and quince, which, with the foliage of many varieties of -shrubs, made the prospect on all sides most beautiful. - -If a well-regulated estate particularly attracted our attention, we -universally found, on inquiry, that its owner was a foreigner, whom -the _cochero_ dignified by the low word _gringo_, which is equivalent -to “paddy” in our own language; and in this estimation, I afterwards -found, our countrymen and all strangers are held by the indolent and -treacherous country people. - -Wheat, potatoes, onions, beans, tomatoes, &c., thrive wonderfully upon -the farms; and, if the whole agricultural department were in foreign -hands, the country, with its fine climate, and rich and easily-worked -lands, could produce almost every kind of vegetable. With the exception -of a few English and Scotch, the French from the Basque provinces are -the most energetic and thrifty farmers. In a few instances the Yankee -plough has been used with great success, in place of the miserable -wooden one of the natives. - -We met large covered wagons carrying produce to the city, and troops -of mules and donkeys freighted with thistles, in bundles, to heat the -ovens of the bakers; also others with peach and willow trees, which had -been raised for firewood, an article bringing a good price, on account -of its scarcity. - -As we approached the Tigre and Las Conchas, we found that the country -is undulating; but beyond the line of the latter, it stretches out into -the pampas as far as the vision can reach. - -The diligence entered San Fernando about noon; we found it a little -town, surrounded with fruit trees left to the care of nature, the -people being satisfied with her products without wasting time in -laboring to improve them. - -Two miles distant was the River Tigre, which empties its waters into -the wide Plata; towards the river we directed our steps, and we arrived -in time to dine with Edward Hopkins, Esq., the gentleman whom we had -come to visit. - -Mr. Hopkins, who has acted as our consul in Paraguay, and as agent for -the United States and Paraguay Navigation Company, invited us aboard -the little steamer Asuncion, which had been put together at this place -a short time before. - -This company had been formed in the United States for the purpose of -opening commercial intercourse with Paraguay, a country that had, -under the dictator Francia, excluded foreigners. Lopez, its present -ruler, had been on very intimate terms with our countryman, Mr. H.; -and, taking advantage of this intimacy, and the president’s friendly -feeling towards the United States, the above company was formed; and it -soon sent out from Providence, R. I., a clipper schooner of beautiful -mould, containing, in pieces, a small steamer and “hoop boat,” with -their appropriate crews, carpenters, millwrights, &c. - -The schooner was damaged in the Tigre; but her cargo was landed, -and the Asuncion put together, and sent up the Paraná to Paraguay. -A cigar manufactory, employing three hundred native girls, was set -on foot, a colony formed, and the steamer was to run between that -country and Buenos Ayres, when an event occurred that blasted the -prospects of the North Americans. A brother of Mr. Hopkins was stopped -in the street for some trivial cause (probably galloping his horse) -by a _vigilante_, whose language was insulting, whereupon difficulty -ensued. As representative of his government, Mr. Hopkins interfered; -and then followed the expulsion of our countrymen from the unexplored -and little-known Paraguay. The United States steamer Water Witch, -then lying in the Plata, ascended the river, and was fired upon from -a fortification; several balls lodged in her hull, and one man was -killed. The Water Witch destroyed the structure, and retired down the -river to Montevideo, while the company’s men settled at the Tigre until -matters could be adjusted. The Asuncion was then engaged in carrying -sheep across to the Banda Oriental, the country on the north shores of -the Plata, which is known on some maps as Uruguay. - -San Fernando, in conjunction with the Tigre, is the watering-place of -the _ton_ of Buenos Ayres, many of whom pass the summer in the village. -The next day after our arrival was passed in pleasant conversation with -our countryman, and during the evening a large party of ladies and -gentlemen sailed down the river to two islands covered with groves of -peach trees, where they took _maté_ (tea), and danced La Samba Cueca, -to the music of the guitar. I did not accompany them; for, having met -a young man whose desire for travel had caused him to leave home, -we passed the night wandering among the willows on the banks of the -stream, and at an early hour on the following morning retired to rest -as the piano frog was chanting his reveillé. - -This was a spot where the naturalist would love to dwell. Above our -heads sang many curious birds, and around us were still more curious -insects. - -On the neighboring church of Las Conchas, the _carpentero_ built its -oven-like nest, and parrots filled the air with their cries, while the -mocking-bird rattled out his medley as in our own country. - -As strangers, we were cordially received by the natives who occupied -the houses close at hand, and many were the _matés_ (cups of Paraguay -tea) we took, because the pretty señoritas informed us that their -language and _maté_ were inseparable, and not until the foreigner -became addicted to its use could he ride a horse, throw the lasso, -learn the language, or win a fair maid. - -I have already alluded to the _yerba_, sometimes called _yerba maté_, -from which the Paraguay tea is made. - -It is to South America what the tea of China is to Europe and the -United States; nor are its qualities very greatly different from those -of the Asiatic herb. - -The _yerba_ trees grow in forests, called _yerbales_, on the rivers of -Paraguay, and attain a considerable size. - -At the time of gathering, a party of peons are sent into the forest, -who collect the branches, sprigs, and leaves in vast piles, which are -afterwards thoroughly scorched. This being accomplished, the leaves -and twigs are packed in a raw hide, which contracts as it dries, -compressing the _yerba_ into an almost solid mass. In this condition it -is sent to market. - -The _maté_ is a small gourd, which forms the general drinking-cup in -all the regions which I visited. An infusion of the _yerba_ having been -made, with accessories, as in our own country, it is sucked from the -_maté_ through a tin or silver tube, called the _bombilla_, which is -provided at its lower extremity with a strainer, which prevents the -fine particles of the _yerba_ from rising to the mouth. The name of the -gourd or cup is not unfrequently coupled with that of the tea itself in -mentioning the article. - -At last everything was ready for our departure; and at eleven o’clock -one starlight night we sailed slowly along the little Tigre, and, -passing the peach islands at its mouth, in an hour after, were fairly -on our passage across the Plata, which at this point is nearly thirty -miles wide. Upon arriving off the San Juan River, early the next -morning, the tide was out, and the bar at the mouth of the stream -impassable, which obliged us to remain stationary until afternoon, -when the rising tide permitted us to wind up the stream, and through -luxuriant foliage, the home of the tiger-cat, and once the lair of the -fierce jaguar, which is now, however, rarely met with, having been -driven from his ancient hunting-grounds by parties of natives who -had been exasperated by his continual depredations. Now the little -tiger-cat and wild dogs are their tormentors and annually a tiger hunt -comes off at the mouth of the river. - -We arrived at our destination in due time, and the cargo of sheep was -safely landed. Preparations for the night had hardly been completed, -when from a certain quarter were heard loud and prolonged sounds, so -wild and fearful that our attention was directed towards it. - -“It is the voices of wild animals scenting the sheep-fold,” said one -of our party. The shepherd dogs on the borders of the stream pricked -up their ears, and the hair stood up stiffly upon their backs as they -walked around the sleeping flock, growling savagely. - -While we listened, the sounds grew more and more distinct, and shortly -we were upon our feet to repel an attack from a pack of wild dogs. -Perceiving that we were too strong to be molested with impunity, they -withdrew, snapping and growling, for a short distance, where they -continued their music for two or three hours, and then drew off to -another _estancia_. - -These animals hunt in packs, and though of a cowardly nature, will, -when fierce with hunger, attack man. The following incident, which -occurred a few days prior to our arrival, proves this often-contested -fact. - -A _capataz_ (foreman) of an _estancia_ (farm), while returning from a -distant village to his home, met a pack of these dogs. The instinct of -the brutes told them that the tired horse could not outstrip them in -the long run. They gave chase, and soon brought the horse and rider to -the ground. The _capataz_ had no other weapon than his knife, which -proved ineffectual for his defence, and both man and horse were torn to -pieces and devoured. - -On the day after our arrival we saw at the _estancia_ house three of -these dogs, which had been taken from caves near the River San Juan. -The largest was about a year old; although he associated with the house -dogs, he would not suffer any person to approach him, and exhibited -all the traits of his wild brethren that serenaded him almost every -night. The two others were only a few weeks old, and were as playful as -kittens. - -These wild dogs are of a slight frame, and are generally of a brown and -yellow color; the mouths are of a dusky-brown, or black. Without doubt -they descended from the domestic dogs brought into the country by the -Spanish or Portuguese Jesuits during the period of the early settlement -of the La Plata provinces. - -Early upon the following morning, the gauchos pointed out the path -that led to the _estancia_ house, and my friend Ned and myself set out -to visit it. Larks, partridges, and many other birds started from the -grass as we pursued our way on foot. All these birds were exceedingly -tame; and had we been in possession of a gun, we should have arrived at -the house with a bag of game. - -The farm was owned by a German, who gave us a cordial welcome, and -insisted upon our remaining to breakfast. - -The estate was a small one for that country, embracing but ten or -twelve square miles. The owner purchased it of the last tenant, who -sold for a fair price, but, when he received the money, declared -that the German must pay him extra for the buildings. The new owner, -having, as he supposed, paid for “top and bottom,” refused to give an -additional sum; but the native was inexorable, and the buyer, knowing -that a foreigner receives no justice from South American tribunals, -wisely settled the affair, after much loss of time and money, by paying -the full demand. Almost every bargain that is consummated between a -foreigner and a native results largely in favor of the latter party. By -bribery, falsehood, or perjury,--he cares but little which,--the native -will outwit the “gringo,” and then, in a most barefaced manner, tell -him that it is by superior wit and talent that the end is thus brought -in favor of a _Christian_; for so all true Catholics of both republics, -the Banda Oriental and Argentine, are called, or call themselves, with -no little egotism. - -After partaking of a nourishing meal,--farina, soup, and meat,--Ned -strapped his bundle to his back, carefully loaded his revolver, and, -after several studied inquiries as to certain locations along the coast -of the Plata, bade me to prepare to follow him. Our new friends offered -us horses, saddles, &c.; but Ned had a particular reason for travelling -on foot, and so, bidding our German friends adieu, we posted off in -a westerly direction. Our landmark was the mud hut of an _estancia_, -about seven miles distant, situated on a swell of the prairie. About -the _estancia_ we were leaving were several high hills, which sloped -off into the rolling plain. A portion of these hills were barren, and -broken rocks cropped out at their bases; but the plains or rolling -ground about them, upon which the cattle fed, was covered with fine -grass, occasionally intermixed with flowers. Just beyond the house, at -the base of one of the hills, we descried a shepherd sitting upon the -rocks, apparently watching his flock, that fed upon the plain; but a -closer scrutiny proved that he was fast in the delights of a _siesta_. -Puffs of wind that came around the hills flaunted his _chiropá_ and -_poncho_ in a wild manner, which, together with his long beard, gave -him the appearance of an old gypsy. - -“Now we are clear of all eaves-droppers,” said my friend, “and as we go -along, I will tell you what strange circumstances brought me here, and -why I left a good home and profitable business to wander mysteriously -on this side of the Plata. I am sometimes visionary. My friends say -so, and I believe it to be so; but the cause that tempted me to leave -a wife and child was not so visionary as some of my friends have -declared, and I mean to prove to them their error by returning to New -York, in one year’s time, a rich man. I can prove by history that a -small vessel, sailed by Spanish pirates, went ashore upon this coast, -not twenty, or at the most fifty, miles from the spot that we are now -upon. She had a large amount of money on board, which was taken ashore, -and buried not far from the wreck: two or three trees mark the spot; -they are old now, but are probably still standing. If they are not -standing, I have still another landmark to tell me where the treasure -lies. - -“The first fact which I stated is supported by history; that portion -regarding the treasure is known only to me. The man who imparted the -secret was an invalid for many years past, and, therefore, unable to -come for the treasure himself. He confided it to me upon his death-bed, -in New York city, about a year since. We had been intimate for years, -and could rely on each other. Why he kept the secret from me for such -a length of time, I cannot surmise, unless it was because he hoped to -recover, and come for it himself. He died poor, and his words to me -were of this import: ‘Go to the Plata, and after coming into possession -of this hidden wealth, return with it to New York, give to my widow -three quarters, and keep the other fourth for yourself.’ - -“I have now only to seek out certain localities; when these are found -I shall know just where to sink my rod, and I am certain of success. -The reason that I have imparted a portion of this secret to you is, -that I must have some person to assist me in taking the treasure to -some vessel in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. As soon as we have -ascertained that all is right, I shall despatch you to the Tigre to -purchase a boat, and as you have been long enough on board ship to -‘know the ropes,’ you will not deem it too great a risk to watch for a -fair wind, and navigate the craft across the river. We will then load -up, and steer some fine night, with the tide in our favor, for the -Mary II., that lies off the city. The captain will not be there; but -the mate is a confidential friend, and we will get our things on board -without any trouble from the Custom House officers. - -“When I tell you that I have sold out a profitable business, and expect -to spend at least fifteen hundred dollars in this enterprise, you will -credit me with sanguine hopes, and conclude that I must have strong and -good reasons for risking myself and the support of my family in such a -romantic undertaking.” - -I had before this heard of the Rio Plata gold hunters; but what could -I do? Advise my friend to go home to his wife, of whom he often spoke -in terms of strong affection, or assist him in his labors, and follow -after the _ignis fatuus_ that had lured him from friends and domestic -pleasures? I answered him after this wise. “Ned,” said I, “I shall -offer no opinion regarding this gold hunt, nor discourage you from an -undertaking for the success of which you confess you have embarrassed -yourself and purse; but I also have a mission to perform. I came to -this country with the intention of crossing the pampas to Mendoza, from -which town I mean to cross the Andes to Valparaiso, Chili. From the -latest and best authority I have learned that the mountains will be -impassable after the first week in May, and as it is now late in the -season to insure a safe journey to Valparaiso, it will be necessary for -me to leave Buenos Ayres in the next steamer, which will be ready to -sail in a few days. Until the sailing day I will devote my time to your -plans, but no longer.” - -Though Ned spoke with enthusiasm, and promised the reward of one -thousand dollars in case of success, I remained obstinate, and debate -was dropped. - -As we trudged on our journey, various birds and animals were at -times seen by us. Once two small deer approached us, and acted as if -influenced by great curiosity, and again, a tall ostrich started out -of the grass, and, raising her plumed wings, ran off at the top of her -speed. - -Having reached the _estancia_ house,--our landmark already referred -to,--we halted to ask for water. The little that the family had was in -an old barrel; by the side of it was a cow’s dirty horn, out of which -we drank. We continued our journey to the next stopping-place, five -miles beyond. This was a small hut surrounded by corrals, the whole -serving as an outpost to a large _estancia_. The occupants were a lazy -gaucho and his negress wife, who invited us in, and offered _maté_; but -as our object was to find some suitable shelter for the night, we did -not remain long, but pushed on towards the River Las Vacas. Darkness -coming on, we hurried to several mud huts that loomed up in the -distance. Upon arriving at them, we found a young gaucho, who led us -into a room where a powerful-built, supercilious-looking personage was -sitting. Glancing at us carelessly, he asked us several questions; but -being ignorant of the language, we could only make use of the “Spanish -Teacher” that my friend had brought with him: we could not discover -whether he understood our requests or desires. He treated us in a very -distant manner, calling a gaucho, and ordering us off to a low, mud -hut, where a woman was cooking a strip of meat by a small fire. - -The interior of the hut was filthy in the extreme, the broken walls -covered with vermin, and the whole dwelling filled with blinding smoke. -Shortly after our entrance, several gauchos came in, and conversed -together in low tones. - -After a few minutes they approached us, who were seated upon a log, -and addressed numerous inquiries to my companion. Ned, with the utmost -simplicity, opened his “Teacher,” and pointed out several sentences. -The fellows at first looked at the book, and turned over several -leaves with a puzzled air, then, breaking out in a loud laugh, threw -it back into his lap. Soon one dark-visaged gaucho drew his knife, -and commenced slashing it above the head of my companion, seeming -undecided, however, to strike him. - -At this manifestation of mischief, our hands grasped our Colt’s -revolvers; and if the knife had touched either of our bodies, we should -have drawn our weapons and shot down our assailants. “If they strike -us, shoot all except the old hag, who can do nothing more than give the -alarm, and take to your heels,” muttered my companion. - -We sat thus for half an hour, during which time the gauchos made -several attempts to strike at our legs, but did not succeed. They -were at length called away by the old woman, who offered them their -supper. We at last asked them by signs for a bed; they pointed to a -pile of dried skins that lay heaped up in one corner of the hut. At -this the indignation of my friend could hardly be kept within bounds. -Having been accustomed to all the comforts that the great metropolis -of our country could furnish, he determined no longer to suffer the -inhospitable treatment of gauchos. Telling me to follow him, he moved -towards the door of the shanty, which was nothing more than a large -hide, swinging to and fro in the entrance. - -But the gauchos would not allow us to leave; and after a vain attempt -at arguing the matter, we were at last obliged to stretch ourselves -upon the hides, and lying side by side, kept watch in turn, with -pistols in hand, through the long and uncomfortable night. When I say -uncomfortable, I mean the whole strength of the word, for the hides -were alive with vermin, and their passage over our bodies and its -attendant irritation, half crazed us both. But the longest night has an -end. An hour before daylight the gauchos arose from the ground, which -had been their bed, and lassoing their horses in the corral, galloped -off to different parts of the _estancia_. - -As soon as we saw that the disagreeable fellows were certainly gone, -we arose and hurried away from the hut. The woman followed, and begged -us to come back and eat meat; but we were only too willing to leave -without a breakfast. We learned, some days later, from an Englishman, -that the owner of this _estancia_, whose name was Moreno, belonged to a -family of the most villanous character. - -During the revolutions, and while the country was in the midst of -civil war, an elder brother of this Moreno became a general, and -perpetrated the most horrid deeds of cruelty. With a band of _soldiers_ -he traversed that portion of the country, cutting out the tongues of -hundreds of cattle, and leaving the animals to become the prey of the -wild beasts and birds. He visited a great number of _estancias_, and -slaughtering the owners, male and female, placed in their stead his own -submissive tools. - -At the close of the war, justice cried out against him, and the villain -fled the country, leaving a part of his ill-gotten possessions in the -hands of his brother. - -Four or live miles beyond Moreno’s, we passed a white-washed _casa_ -(house) belonging to another man equally bad with our late host. - -We now entered a thinly-wooded country, with thorn trees and cacti, in -which large flocks of _palomas_--a species of turtle dove resembling -our own species--were abundant. Just before reaching the River Las -Vacas we came upon a hut of cornstalks, out of which, to our surprise, -walked an unmistakable son of Erin. He commenced at once with, “Sure, -and is it yerselves that’s afoot? Where be your hosses? Walk into the -house and be seated.” - -Hurrying into the house, he commenced an onslaught upon a lot of fowls -and two or three dogs, driving them out: we entered with him. He was a -perfect specimen of the “Irish-born citizen.” He had originally come to -the country as cook to an English bark. He had much to say about the -travels and dangers that he had gone through. Speaking of the conduct -of Great Britain in meddling with the affairs of the Banda Oriental, he -expressed his dissatisfaction in the most forcible language. - -“The English and Frinch intervinshun,” said he, “kilt me, as it did -all the furriners. Before it I owned two thousand head of cattle and -hosses, and had plinty of land, and was comfortable. I had a wife, -though I didn’t have time to get married to the crathur; and lucky was -I that I hadn’t, for she run off wid me money and half of me property. -I hears that the Turks are fighting the queen, and are like to succeed. -God bless them if they do. I hope she may be taken.” - -We left him as soon as possible, and pushed on to the River Las Vacas, -which we soon reached, and crossed in a boat. We remained two days in -the little town on its banks, during which time Ned made many inquiries -for certain localities, but without success. Finding that nothing -could be learned here, we hired horses, and set out on our return to -the San Juan River, following along the coast of the Plata. Every few -minutes would Ned halt and repeat the three Spanish words that he had -studied for many weeks, and could now pronounce correctly. Turning to -our guide, an old lame gaucho, he would say, half inquiringly, “_Los -Tres Hermanos?_” but at each time the old man shook his head. - -At last we came upon a high bluff, and the gaucho, halting, pointed -with his finger to two small islands, green with heavy foliage that -fringed their shores, and exclaimed, “_Los Dos Hermanos!_” But those -were not the islands that Ned was seeking. “_Los Dos Hermanos_,” or -“The Two Brothers,” were islands of greater size than those which my -friend sought. - -“_Los Tres Hermanos_” or “The _Three_ Brothers,” had been described to -him by the dying man as “three small pointed rocks;” but Ned could not -find these. He had consulted every chart that he could procure, but not -one had the three rocks upon it. Could it be that “The Two Brothers” -had been confounded with some other islets? - -But I will not dwell upon our unsuccessful search. Suffice it to say -that we both returned to the Tigre in the same steamer that had brought -us across the Plata. I left Ned busily at work upon a small boat, in -which, when finished, he intended to cross the river, and, disguised as -a roving naturalist, to skirt along the river coast in search of “_Los -Tres Hermanos_.” When I parted from him, he said, gayly, “Good by, -my friend. You have yet to travel a long road before you reach North -America. I shall be there some months before you.” - -After returning to the United States, I wrote to New York, as he had -requested; but some time elapsed before an answer came, and then my -worst fears were realized. Disappointed in his search for gold, he had -accepted the first offer for employment that presented itself, and had -become the mate of the little steamer that carried us across the river -when he first embarked in his romantic speculation. - -During the passage of the steamer to the upper Paraná, he fell -overboard one night, and was carried into the rapids of the river and -drowned. - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANÁ. - - -From the River Tigre I proceeded on foot to Buenos Ayres. When within -a league or two of the city, I passed a fine _quinta_ inhabited by a -Scotchman, who had resided several years in the republic. Two Irishmen, -mounted high upon a cart, were driving through the gate, and one of -them, after scrutinizing my appearance, shouted to me, “Sure you’re an -Irishman--are ye not?” - -I answered that I was a North American, and belonged in Boston; when -the other man inquired if I happened to be acquainted with a family -by the name of Kelley, adding that the head of said family was a half -brother to his wife. - -I tried to show my questioner that Boston was a large place, with -inhabitants so numerous that I had not yet had the pleasure of the -acquaintance of his relatives; and, after giving the latest news of -the great metropolis, and what was transpiring when I left it, I -parted from the cartmen and pursued my journey, philosophizing on -the wonderful race of the Irish, and the fact that, no matter what -corner of the globe we may be in, we are certain to find this people -represented, sometimes by a great many individuals. - -When I reached the city of Buenos Ayres, I learned that the boat was to -leave on the next morning; and, to prevent detention, the consul gave -me a note addressed to the captain of the port, who at once furnished -me with a passport. Persons about leaving the province are required to -advertise their intended departure during three successive days in one -of the three or four daily papers that are published in its principal -city. This regulation is designed to prevent the departure of debtors -for other “parts unknown,” without settling their accounts; but the law -is no less ineffectual than inconvenient, as it has been found utterly -impotent to accomplish the object for which it was designed. Before -sailing, I visited the bark, to bid adieu to the rough but honest -hearts that had been my associates during our long passage from Boston. -I was received with joyful demonstrations. I divided the contents of my -trunk among the sailors, and, after a pleasant chat with the mate, was -about to leave the vessel, when the “distinguished Irish barrister’s -son,” our cook, hinted that he had a word for my private ear. I -followed him to the galley; closing the doors, to keep out intruders, -he offered me a seat, and began the following conversation: “My dear -friend, do you ever partake of that which makes men’s sinews as strong -as iron bands? If so, here is the bottle just smuggled aboard by the -‘patron’ who brought you from the city. No! you won’t dhrink? I’m less -bashful. Here’s to a short parting, and may you not yield your heart, -as I once did mine, to any señorita on your journey.” Here he took a -good pull at the bottle, and continued: “What shall I do without you? -I’m puzzled to know, with no kindred intellect on board to cheer me -on the homeward passage. However, I have long intended to prepare a -work on the ‘Irish Karákter in America,’ that will occupy my mind, and -make the time pass less tediously. It will make at laste five volumes, -and I’m keeping a ‘dialogue’ (diary) for notes every day.” After he -had enlarged on, and explained the character of his embryo book, I -turned the subject by remarking that it seemed strange that a man of -his poetic nature had never been entangled in the bonds of love. “Ah, -now! ye’ve said it,” exclaimed the “doctor.” “I have passed through -that experience; but the cratur, woman, has been no blessing, as the -poets say, but a perfect bane, to my poor heart. It was woman who drove -me from my position in society to this galley.” Here the cook was -obliged to draw a pull of comfort from the bottle. “When I was only -sixteen years of age,” he continued, with a sigh,--whether of love or -in consequence of the strength of the liquor I was uncertain,--“my -father had a frind, who was also an Irish barrister; this gintleman had -a daughter like an angel. I was young and beardless, she a few years -older than meself. I became so deeply enamoured that I offered her me -hand and me hat (heart); at which she softly replied, ‘Mr. W., you -are too young.’ I, however, pressed me suit, for women want a deal of -coaxing; but she only smiled. At last, when I grew quite urgent,--for -an Irishman coorts in earnest,--she referred me for an answer to the -second of Samuel, tinth chapter, and the last part of the fifth verse. -I turned at once to it, for I thought that by it she meant to accept me -suit, and in a bashful way told me as she did; when what was my horror -and shame to read the following words: ‘Tarry at Jericho until your -beard be grown, and then return.’ - -“Would you believe it, my friend?--this little incident became known -to my acquaintances, and for shame I was forced to leave the country; -and for eleven years I never saw ould Ireland again.” I thought that, -considering his beardless condition, the Irish girl’s answer was quite -_Pat_ to the occasion. The rum was now deeply affecting my friend’s -intellect; and just as he was about to recite a “stanza,” I rose to -leave, saying that I could protract my stay no longer. Embracing me -affectionately, and repeating the lines about “tarrying in Jericho -until your beard be grown,” he bade me adieu; and the last I heard of -him was his singing at the top of his voice, “O, whiskey! whiskey is -the life of man! O, whiskey for me, Johnny!” Bidding farewell to the -rest of the crew, and refusing some pieces of silver which old Manuel -insisted upon forcing into my pockets as fast as I could take them out, -I went over the rail, and with the “patron” pushed off from the vessel -towards the city. - -About noon on the following day, the Uruguay, in which I had taken -passage, weighed anchor, and commenced the ascent of the river against -a strong current which made the old boat tremble from stem to stern. -The passengers on board were a motley crowd--merchants, soldiers, -gauchos, and emigrants of every size and color. One hundred men, women, -and children from the Basque provinces were on their way to Paraguay. -Two hundred more were soon to follow in another party, they having -already arrived at Buenos Ayres. This immigration was the commencement -of a plan of President Lopez, who was encouraging French immigrants to -come, rightly believing that they would benefit his little republic. -Among the Basques whom I saw was the wife of Montez, the president’s -interpreter, on her return from a European tour. This lady, who acted -as matron for her countrywomen, spoke seven languages fluently. She was -enthusiastic regarding the prospects of the new colony. - -Late in the afternoon we passed the islands of _Martin Garcias_ and -_Los Dos Hermanos_, and entered the beautiful Paraná, whose current is -more gentle than that of the Plata. The country by the river is flat, -until we near Rosario, where the banks come down to the water’s edge in -the form of sand hills. The undergrowth was thick in a few spots, which -served, a few years since, as hiding-places to the dreaded jaguar, an -animal which is, however, now seldom met with south of Santa Fé. - -At noon on the 30th of March we dropped anchor before the town of El -Rosario (the Rosary), having been forty-eight hours in the trip. I -was paddled ashore from the steamboat by a native in a log canoe, and -succeeded in landing with dry feet. Luckily meeting an Englishman, -I was directed by him to the house of Mr. G., to whom I had letters -of introduction; and from him and his amiable wife, a native of the -country, I received every attention that even a long acquaintance would -have warranted. - -Rosario, situated in latitude 23° 56′ south, longitude 60° 32′ west, is -about three hundred feet above the level of the sea. The town contains -seven or eight thousand inhabitants, the greatest portion of whom -have sprung from the Spanish and Indian stock; while the amalgamation -of races has introduced a great variety of shades of complexion, as -well as of character, among the population. The streets, like those of -Buenos Ayres, intersect each other at right angles. The sidewalks are -paved with a coarse-grained brick, about fourteen inches long by six -broad, and a little more than an inch in thickness. - -Rosario has one church and two schools, of which one is a private -seminary, and the other supported by a public fund. There is also in -process of erection a small hospital, to contain two wards, one for -male and one for female patients. It was nearly finished at the time -of my visit, and would soon be ready to receive the poor invalids -of the vicinity. This hospital was erected, without assistance from -the authorities, by means of a subscription raised among the wealthy -citizens. The people of Rosario, unlike the inhabitants of most -Spanish-American towns, appear to take great pride in the advancement -of the place, which is beginning to rival Santa Fé, a large town to the -northward, which formerly monopolized the interior trade; but of late -years, in consequence of the energy of its merchants and its proximity -to Buenos Ayres, Rosario has diverted a huge portion of the business -from Santa Fé to herself, and continues to encourage it by proposing to -build a bridge seventy yards in length across a river that lies between -Cordova and Paraná. If this enterprise is not abandoned, it will -attract to Rosario many caravans which are accustomed to trade higher -up the river. The Sabbath prior to my departure had been appointed for -a meeting of the citizens to act regarding this matter. - -A new line of diligences had been running for three months between -Rosario and Mendoza; they left monthly, while another line ran more -frequently to Cordova, a town in the interior. - -Rosario supports a printing-office and a semi-weekly newspaper, that -promises soon to be issued daily. Sloops, schooners, and small brigs -are constantly arriving and departing; and with all these facilities -for business and travel, Rosario, in its present growing condition, -will shortly prove the most important town of the Paraná. - -The police force is organized in the usual South American manner, and -consists of a few mounted _vigilantes_ armed with swords, and dressed -in peaked cloth caps, long red ponchos, and pantaloons, underneath -which the frills of the _calconcillas_ (gaucho drawers) may be seen. - -Like physicians, they are allowed to gallop their horses in the -streets, while all others are prohibited, under penalty of a fine of -one dollar, from doing so. _Vigilantes_, when sent to arrest a person, -are usually accompanied by a higher officer, as they are an ignorant -body of men, and frequently not of the strictest integrity. - -Although Rosario is the seaport, or commercial town, Paraná, is the -present capital of the Argentine Confederation. A national bank had, -not long before my arrival, been established by the confederacy, of -which the headquarters were fixed at Paraná, with branches in the -provinces; but before it had been six months in operation, the whole -affair exploded, as the confederate states, unlike Buenos Ayres, -have little or no revenue. The government had also appropriated sums -towards building a railroad from Cordova to Mendoza or Copiapo. Mr. -Allen Campbell, a well-known North American engineer, was engaged to -superintend the construction of the road; but, in view of the poverty -of the country, the dangers arising from civil wars, the paucity of -emigration to the interior, and the universal indolence of the natives, -it is hardly possible to predict for this undertaking any remarkable -success for many years to come. - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY. - - -While awaiting the expected departure of the carts for Mendoza, I -remained with my kind host and his amiable wife, the G.’s. During the -interim, I occupied myself in becoming acquainted with the habits of -the people. One morning, after I had been in Rosario for several days, -a North American--as we from the United States are called--drove into -my host’s _patio_, and announced that he had “come to see the young -chap from the north.” I introduced myself as the person in question, -when he cordially grasped both my hands, and said that he was glad to -meet an old friend again; he regarded all from his own country as such. -He informed me that he lived out on Don B.’s _estancia_, and, having -heard that a countryman was in town, he improved the first opportunity -of visiting him. Of course he had many inquiries to make concerning -news from home, which I answered as well as I could, and soon we were -friends. - -This man’s career had been somewhat remarkable. A sailor first, then -variously employed, and now a “breaker in” of wild colts and mules, -he possessed the faculty of adapting himself to all circumstances -peculiar to the true North American. His experiences had been varied, -and he well illustrated in his career the truth of the old adage, “A -rolling stone gathers no moss.” He was thoroughly conversant with all -the peculiarities of pampa life; had observed well the habits of the -birds and animals that live on the plains; was an adept in throwing the -lasso, and mastering wild colts and horses. - -“You are here after information, I guess?” interrogated my new friend. -“If so, come with me for a few days, and I will show you how to be a -gaucho. My shoulders are lame with being tossed in the saddle while -breaking colts; but the job is through with for a while, and I’d just -like to show you about.” - -“But you have only one horse,” I replied. “Where can I find another?” - -“Never mind,” responded Don Daniel, as my friend styled himself. -“Jest you mount him; I can get another: I’ve lots of friends around -the river, and any one will find me a hoss: if it comes to the wust -(worst), I can _find one_ myself.” - -An extra blanket was furnished me from the house, and I placed myself -at the disposal of Don Daniel. - -The little iron-gray stallion that was to carry me into a strange land -pawed and curvetted, and seemed anxious to be off. The _alforjas_, or -saddle-bags, had been well filled by my lovely hostess. Don Daniel’s -_chifles_, or water-vessels, consisted of two cow’s horns, one of which -he filled with water for his new _amigo_, Don Yankee; the other he -filled at a store with _aguardiente_ for himself. - -“Don Yankee,” said he, as he busied himself about this important -matter, “you have come from Boston, the home of temperance doctrines: -stick to your colors, and don’t mistake this horn”--pointing to the -one filled with liquor--“for the one filled with water, as there will -not be more than enough for myself. I take it for my lame shoulders by -an internal application.” - -“_Ejo mio, adios_” (God be with you, my son)! exclaimed the -kind-hearted señora. “Don’t fall into a _biscacha_ hole,” warned her -husband; and we were off. - -Don Daniel bestrode a good-looking horse, that he had contrived _to -find_ somewhere. “Hurry!” said he, clapping spurs to his animal, as we -turned a corner. “If that lazy _porteño_ sees us, there will be no hoss -for Don Daniel.” - -Although we were moving at quite a rapid pace, I remonstrated with my -companion against his using other people’s horses without their consent. - -He only laughed, and said, “Poh! you are green, my boy. It is the -custom here. When the _porteño_ needs his hoss, he’ll take a friend’s -animal, as I have done. We are all friends in this country; and -I’ll send his hoss back before a week is out. Now, _caro mio_, push -yourself just a _leetle_ for’ard,--so,--that’s it; don’t ride, like -a pole,--so,--so: here comes a breeze; isn’t this jolly? Now I feel -that pain in my shoulder: a leetle rum won’t hurt it; you can try the -water-cure.” - -And on we galloped over the smooth, grassy plains, while the sun, -resembling a huge red shield, sank before us into the grass. - -The next day’s travel brought us to the very heart of the gaucho -dominion. As far as the vision extended, and still farther beyond, -a level plain, covered with grass, spread out, on which vast herds -of cattle, the wealth of the herdsmen, were feeding. On we rode, our -horses devouring space with almost untiring speed. Thus far during our -day’s ride we had not met with a single human being. Nothing possessing -life, except cattle and horses, had we seen. But at length we fell -in with a large herd; and attending them were two gauchos, sitting -on the ground, engrossed in a game of cards, their horses standing -beside them. As we approached, they respectfully touched their hats, -and wished us a “_buenas dias_” (good day). We inquired of them the -name of the owner of the neighboring herds, when they replied that we -were upon the _estancia_ of Don Carlos B., in whose service they were -employed as _peons_. We again put our horses to the gallop, and sped -on over the smooth turf. All day the same speed was kept up; for our -animals were true pampa steeds, and scorned a trot. Having traversed -many miles, we met with another herd of cattle, which, instead of -moving from us, as did the droves which we passed in the morning, -seemed differently minded. Two or three old bulls left their several -companies, and approached the spot where we drew up our horses. The -old fellows seemed very courageous, lowering their heads, and shaking -their long, shaggy locks, as if determined to contest our passage, or -protect their weaker companions, who were closely huddled behind those -pampa kings. We dismounted, and, leaving our horses, advanced towards -the bulls. But the moment we touched the ground the animals assumed -another character: as we advanced on foot towards them, they bellowed -loudly, and, turning, with their heads down and tails up, scampered off -as fast as fear could impel them, the ground trembling under the tread -of hundreds of heavy hoofs. - -Daniel laughingly explained, while we were mounting our horses, that, -in those distant parts, cattle know man only when he is mounted upon -horseback, and that a gaucho on foot is so rarely beheld that he is -always mistaken for some unknown beast of prey. - -As night came on, we dismounted, and, taking off the _recardo_, or -country saddle, spread it upon the grass for a bed; we then hobbled our -horses, and, after making a meal off a strip of roasted beef, lay down -to a night’s welcome sleep. - -At dawn we were again in motion, and, after galloping a mile or two, -met a solitary gaucho, who was chasing a herd of cattle. On our -calling to him, he instantly wheeled his horse, and, on inquiry, -informed us--for your gaucho is a polite fellow--that we were upon the -_estancia_ of Don Carlos B. - -“Don Carlos!” we exclaimed. “Why, we were upon his estate yesterday, -and have galloped many miles since then. Can it be that his _estancia_ -is so large?” - -“Yes,” answered the gaucho. “Don Carlos is the largest _estanciero_ -within two hundred miles.” - -“How large is his farm, then?” I asked. - -The gaucho confessed that he was ignorant, and neither did his master -know; for many years before a _pampero_, or hurricane, carried away -the boundary stakes.[1] And even his estate is small beside that of -Candioti, the once great pampa lord, who possessed upwards of two -hundred square leagues of territory, and was owner of nearly a million -head of cattle, besides hundreds of thousands of horses and mules. -Candioti lived in Santa Fé, and once had not a _real_ of his own; but -before he died he sent annually to Peru many thousands of mules, and -a hundred heavily-laden wagons of merchandise. Since his death, his -estate has been divided among his large family of illegitimate children. - -As we continued to draw the gaucho out, he warmed up with his subject, -and enthusiastically praised his master, Don Carlos. He dwelt with -especial pride upon his great prowess; told us how he twice inflicted -deep wounds upon the body of Don Vicente Moreno, the famous fighter, -on the last feast day. He informed us that his great man, “Don Carlos, -can catch a shaven and greased pig by the tail, and shoulder it; can -ride the wildest bull upon the pampas, until, worn down by fatigue, it -allows the don to lead it to the corral.” In fine, so many and varied -were this gentleman’s accomplishments, that we wondered that we had not -heard of him before. - -From what we heard of Don Carlos, we imagined him to be a mighty -personage; or at least I did, and Don Daniel pretended to, and believed -his dwelling to be almost a palace, judging by his immense wealth, -of which we had had abundant proofs in our long ride. Seeing that we -were struck with the gaucho’s enthusiasm, he offered to lead us to -the presence of his master, which offer we accepted. Galloping across -the pampa, we at last discovered a small object, like a speck in the -distance, which the herdsman pronounced to be the residence of his -master. - -As we drew near the house, my previous fine notions received a severe -shock; for, instead of an elegant mansion, with verandas and towers, -we found a hut of stakes, cornstalks, and mud. Two or three holes -knocked through its sides served as windows and ventilators. A few -peach-trees grew behind the building; but they were not planted to -supply the family with fruit, but served for fuel for the _estanciero_; -few trees grow on these plains save those planted for firewood. - -Don Carlos came out of his mansion; for the barking of no less than -twenty dogs had heralded our approach, long before we reached the door. -Dismounting from our horses, we repeated a solemn Ave Maria, to which -the don made some appropriate reply, and then invited us within doors, -and introduced us to a dark-complexioned woman, whom he called Doña -Maria, his wife. - -_Maté yerba_, the South American tea, was brought out, and served by -the lady herself, who, in preparing it, reclined on the ground in a -position far from graceful. A kettle, one or two tawdry North American -chairs, and an old table, seemed to form the only furniture of the -household. Our attention was attracted by several crania of oxen that -lay scattered about the hut, and, thinking that they might have been -kept as relics of departed favorites, I asked no questions; but I -learned afterwards that the skulls were pampa chairs, and were used as -such by the natives. - -The don was a small, dark-complexioned man, with black, restless eyes, -that were constantly scanning surrounding objects. His father was a -Spaniard, his mother an Indian woman. Although he was forty years old, -he had visited the capital but half a dozen times. When he was absent, -he said, his mind wandered back to his _estancia_, and he was not -satisfied until he was again among his herds. Though hospitable in -his manner, he was a misanthrope, and placed but little confidence in -mankind. - -When we informed our entertainers that we had come from North America, -we were beset with numerous questions. “Where is North America?” “Can -a man travel there on horseback in two months?” “Is it situated in -England or France?” “Is your moon like ours?” “What food do your people -eat?” and such other queries were made. - -We found that the don’s family was composed of several sons and one or -two daughters; but no two of the children were of the same complexion. -I wondered at this, as I was ignorant of the fact that our host was a -polygamist; and though Doña Maria acted as his present wife, and as -mother to children not her own, she never murmured, for her husband was -her lord and master. - -All these sons were treated alike, and lived together in perfect -contentment, while some of the degraded beings who bore them acted -as cooks and servants to the household. A little corn was boiled and -eaten with meat, without salt; and after reverently crossing themselves -before the crucifix, which occupied a corner, the family betook -themselves to their saddle-cloths--for it was now night--to rest. - -The morning dawned beautifully upon us. As the heavy mist rolled off -the pampas, we beheld the gauchos departing in various directions to -their respective herds, for it was their duty to prevent the animals -from straying off the _estancia_; and though thousands upon thousands -of cattle bear upon their hides the brand of the proprietor, it is -rarely that one is lost. Each gaucho can recognize every animal that -belongs to his particular herd, let the number be hundreds. - -The gauchos returned to breakfast at about eleven o clock, and while -they were eating their beef and taking _maté_, I took a walk into the -vicinity of our host’s dwelling. Close at hand were two or three large -staked enclosures called corrals, into which the horses used by the -family were driven nightly for convenience’ sake. At the time of my -visit, all the animals save one had been turned out to graze; this one -remained, as is customary, tied to a stake throughout the day, to be -in readiness for any emergency. The poor fellow stands all day without -eating a mouthful of food. He could not eat grain, having learned to -eat nothing but grass; and as hay was an unknown luxury on the pampa, -he was obliged to wait until night came for his food. - -As I wandered about the place, my attention was drawn to the little -parties of animals grazing around me. The oxen were very large, and -would compare most favorably with the finest in North America. The cows -so resembled the oxen in roughness of form and size of limb, that I at -once pronounced them inferior to our own in beauty. Out of thousands of -cows upon the _estancia_, only three were milked, and these but once a -day. These cows, more civilized than their relatives upon the plains, -yield only five or six quarts of milk daily, and I wondered at their -barrenness, but was afterwards informed by the _estanciero_ that they -gave him all the milk he wanted for cheese, and, therefore, he need not -care to improve the stock. - -The size of the horses I noticed to be, on the average, smaller than -that of our own animals, though there were many noble specimens, both -of size and beauty, feeding on the plains. These large horses are -generally selected to sell to Chilians; for the people of Chili prefer -large animals, and even _trot_ their horses in some of the cities. - -The pampa horses never feel the brush or comb; their coats are rough, -and, instead of heavy manes and flowing tails, they can boast of -little in either. In one thing they can claim superiority over our own -most valuable animals: a pampa horse can gallop a whole day with a -man upon its back, and can endure privations that would soon kill our -stable-reared pets. - -When I returned to the hut, I informed our host that in my country -animals are habitually kept housed, in better buildings, in many -instances, than his own residence; and, moreover, in place of allowing -them to dwindle to mere skeletons, by living upon dead grass in the -winter time, as many of his horses did, they are fed upon an article -called hay,--prepared grass,--and grow fat and sleek on grain. - -“What!” exclaimed Don Carlos, “horses in houses! Who ever heard of such -a thing?” And the look he gave implied that his private opinion was -that North Americans are greater fools than he took them to be. - -It was useless to argue the great value of our horses in comparison -with his; he could not believe that a horse ever was worth two hundred -dollars; he had twenty thousand, which he valued at four dollars each, -and forty thousand horned cattle, that he estimated at eight dollars -per head. - -I would here remark that the same kind of cattle could have been bought -ten years since for half the price he estimated his worth; but now the -herdsman had discovered that by slaughtering animals for their hides -thousands have been wasted, and now the demand far exceeds the supply, -and the price of raw hides can never be cheaper than it is at present. - -Don Carlos, unlike the farmers of the Banda Oriental, did not believe -in sheep grazing; therefore he never permitted his flocks to increase -beyond fifteen thousand. An offer of fifty cents a head would have been -immediately accepted, and when he received the money, he would have -placed it in a goat-skin, with others of his treasures, and buried it -in the ground. - -I had noticed in one of the corrals some curious cattle, of a breed -unknown to me; on inquiry I learned that they were of the _Niata_ -breed, which originated among the Indians of the southern pampas, and -was once more numerous than the kind now common. This breed is seldom -met with at present, and Don Carlos had secured these in his corral -by order of a foreigner in Buenos Ayres, who intended sending them to -Paris. These animals have low, heavy foreheads, the lower part being -recurved. The teeth project from the mouth, the lips being short and -incapable of being closed; in fact, they bear resemblance to pug-nosed -dogs. This has the effect of giving them a fierce and terrible look. -Our host remembered the time when a severe drought prevented the usual -growth of grass, and dried it up; but while other cattle lived through -the season, many of the _Niata_ breed were found dead upon the plains, -because, on account of the peculiar formation of their jaws and lips, -they could not lay hold of the grass. - -Each of the _estanciero’s_ daughters had a pet ostrich, the two being -representatives of both of the South American species. One of these was -about as tall as an average-sized man, the other of the two species -about two thirds as tall. The first-mentioned one was caught when young -within two miles of the house, and its species is quite common on the -pampas; the smaller variety, known to the gauchos as the _Avestruz -teteze_, was brought from Patagonia, south of the River Negro, by -one of General Rosas’s old soldiers. Neither of these varieties can -compare with the great African bird, their feathers being destitute -of that beauty and delicacy which has made the last-named bird famous -in all countries. In fact, the South American ostriches are properly -cassowaries, a three-toed species; the African has but two toes, and -is, besides, nearly twice the size of the others. - -As there have been many conflicting and incorrect accounts published -concerning these birds, I will here give the most interesting, and I -believe correct, information that I have been able to gather. - -The male bird prepares the nest, and is obliged sometimes to gather the -eggs into it, the female often being careless as to where she deposits -them. I have been told that the male will attack man if the nest is -disturbed, leaping up and attempting to strike him with his feet. - -When pursued, the ostrich readily takes to the water, swimming slowly -but fearlessly; it has been observed migrating from island to island, -swimming apparently without great effort. - -The food of these birds consists of grasses, various roots, and the -sweet pod of the _algaroba_ tree, with which they swallow stones, -shells, and other hard substances, to assist in digestion. - -In the spring months--in south latitude, September, October, and -November--the male selects his wives, from three to eight in number, -and assumes full control of their movements, fighting off any bachelor -bird that may attempt to carry on a flirtation with any of his family. -Some gauchos assert that the whole family of hens deposit their eggs in -one nest or its vicinity. In such cases the eggs number from eighteen -to fifty. It would seem that so large a number it would be difficult -to cover; but ostrich eggs seem to suffer but little by neglect during -incubation. - -A gentleman who travelled as far south as the Rio Negro states that -some eggs are allowed to remain outside the nest, and these are broken -by the parent, when the young in the others are hatched, to attract the -flies upon which the chicks feed during the first few days of their -lives. - -Fleet of foot, possessed of great endurance, the ostrich is captured -only by the continued efforts of several horsemen, who either drive -it in circles or give it direct chase, each horse when tired being -relieved by a fresh animal and rider. - -When the bird has become so exhausted that it can be approached within -forty or fifty yards, the _boliadores_--three balls attached to cords -of equal lengths, which are fastened to one thong--are whirled around -above the head of the gaucho, until they have attained a proper -impetus, and launched at the bird, whose legs become entangled, and he -falls an easy prey. - -The male bird is easily distinguished from the female by his larger -head, and the darker color of his plumage. The gauchos sometimes kill -them for food, eating the wings and feet only. - -I had heard of the method by which wild colts are rendered submissive, -and requested Don Carlos to permit me to witness the operation. The -gauchos had finished their meal, and as they were about to depart -for the pampas, we saddled our horses, and, mounting, were ready to -accompany them. On the fellows galloped like the wind, swinging the -ends of their bridles over their heads, and shouting boisterously to -each other. Three miles were quickly passed over, and we drew up before -a herd of several hundred animals, nearly all of which were mothers -with their foals. A beautiful young mare attracted my attention, and I -must confess I wished to possess her. I desired the don to select her -for the one to undergo the breaking-in process. I saw at once that I -had made a _faux pas_, for all the gauchos burst into a loud laugh, and -declared that “North Americans must be queer people. Who ever heard -of training a _mare_ to the saddle?” “Why!” exclaimed another, with -a contemptuous curl of his lip, “do you work mares in your country? -Why, man, I would as soon think of putting a saddle upon my poor old -mother’s back, and forcing a bridle into her mouth, as of breaking in a -_mare_! The people of North America are savages!” - -Mares are respected in the country of the herdsman, and it is -considered an ungrateful and indecent act to require labor of the -mothers of horses. - -Seeing that, through ignorance, I had lowered myself in the opinion -of the pampa lord and his followers, I concluded to hold my peace in -future, and await events without trying to shape them. At last Don -Carlos selected a fine young horse, and pointed it out to one of his -men as a fit subject for his skill. - -The gaucho loosened the lasso from behind him, and made the running -noose, which is held in one hand, while in the other are grasped -several coils ready to run out at the proper moment. The victim was -separated from the drove, and the horse bestrode by the gaucho started -after it with the rapidity of the wind. The fugitive strained every -nerve to distance his pursuer; but as a trained horse, if mounted by a -herdsman, can generally overtake a free one, however fleet he may be, -the lasso soon left the gaucho’s hand, his horse wheeled, and braced -his feet for a shock which in an instant occurred, the noose settling -over the head of the victim, and checking him in his flight so suddenly -that he fell in a somerset upon his back. - -At first the colt was stunned by the fall; but, recovering, he arose to -his feet, and began pulling upon the lasso until his eyes seemed as if -about to start from their sockets. A second gaucho now galloped to the -assistance of his friend, and, skilfully throwing his lasso around the -hind legs of the victim, started away in another direction, by which -movement the colt was thrown to the ground, and his hind legs stretched -out to their full length. The feet were now tied together with a strip -of hide, the lassoes were removed, and the poor animal was helpless on -the ground, and panting with fear. - -But the real work of breaking him in was yet to be done. A saddle was -placed upon his back, and a piece of lasso thrust into his mouth to -serve as a bridle; the bonds on his feet were then loosened enough to -permit him to rise to his feet, and two men held him by the ears, while -his eyes were being covered with a poncho. The question, “Who is to -ride him?” was hardly asked before each gaucho asserted his right to a -seat upon his back. - -The youngest son of the _estanciero_ was selected to prove his -horsemanship to the North Americans. He jumped into the saddle with a -determination to conquer, and shouting, “Let go!” drove his sharp iron -spurs into the animal’s flanks. The colt did not move a muscle, but -seemed overwhelmed with astonishment and fear. - -Another application of the spurs seemed to recall him to his senses. He -backed slowly, and then plunged forward with astonishing force, rose -upon his hind legs, and then fell to the ground, turning and twisting -his body in every conceivable contortion, but to no purpose; his future -master was upon him, and it was useless attempting to unseat him. The -beast now attempted a new course; he dashed forward in a gallop across -the plains, moving with a speed that only fear and rage could give him. -We followed as fast as our horses could travel; but he distanced us, -until, stopping suddenly, he plunged, reared, kicked, and pranced in -his efforts to unseat his rider; but at every movement, the steel spurs -of the gaucho stung him on the flanks. An hour passed, but the colt was -untamed, and he now attempted another plan for procuring his freedom. -Bending his neck until his nose touched the ground, and throwing his -legs together, he jumped into the air, throwing his rider at each jump -nearly two feet above his saddle. - -“Now comes the _vuelto malo_” (bad turn), shouted Don Carlos; -“look, _hijo mio_!” The colt’s nose again touched the ground; he -then attempted to throw a summersault; he almost succeeded; if he -had, he would have crushed the boy; but the rider watched the right -opportunity, and adjusted the position and weight of his body, so that -the horse was forced to settle upon his feet, when he again broke into -a gallop; but his step was feeble, and his strength gone, and he would -fain lie upon the grass if his terrible persecutor would permit. - -His great exertions at length overpowered him, and, conquered, he -allowed the gaucho to dismount, and place a halter over his head. -What a change had come over the animal that two hours before was -galloping over the plains with the freedom of the winds! He stood -perfectly still, his eyes closed; his flanks were covered with sweat, -which rolled off his body in large drops; blood oozed from the wounds -inflicted by the spur, and trickled down his limbs; the nostrils were -dilated, and blood was seen about the nose and mouth; every vein stood -prominent upon his swollen body, and his whole appearance was that of -intense suffering and fear. - -“What a cruel system!” I involuntarily exclaimed. “How the poor animal -has suffered!” - -The gaucho again laughed, and answered, “Why do you pity him? he is -worth but three dollars. There are plenty more better than this one.” - -[Illustration: GAUCHO THROWING THE BOLIADORES.] - -The young conqueror of eighteen led home his prize, and placed it -in the corral, where it lay for several days, unable to stand, eat, or -sleep. Such is the course of training, or breaking in, of wild colts. -At the expiration of ten days after the first lesson the animal is -again ridden, and a third lesson completely breaks him, when he is -increased fifty cents in value, which sum is paid the gaucho for his -trouble, and the pains he has to endure from the conflict.[2] Of course -the colt’s mouth is too tender to bear the hard iron bit for many days. - -After we returned to the house, the gauchos, to further show their -prowess and accomplishments, prepared for some of their favorite games. -First came the trial of “breasting horses.” - -Two gauchos mounted their steeds, and, after receiving and answering -the proper challenge, separated, taking stands about forty rods apart. -At a given signal, they spurred their horses, and, as if bent on -destroying each other, rushed with the greatest force their steeds -together, breast to breast. So great was the concussion, that the -riders were forced from the animals’ backs, and tumbled, half stunned, -to the ground. But they quickly recovered; and, as both were anxious -for a second trial, they mounted again and dashed together, this time -only one being unseated, but he was so lame that he declined a third -trial. - -Next came the trial of crowding horses. - -Two mounted gauchos placed their beasts side by side, and, spurring the -animals on the flanks, each struggled to crowd the other. The horses -seemed to share their riders’ spirits, and at last one little beast -crowded his opponent up to the door of the cook-house, and finally -through it. This was followed by another game. - -A bar was placed across the corral entrance, at about the height of the -horse’s head. A gaucho mounted, and then retired several rods from the -corral, when he turned, and galloped towards the gate, and, without -checking his speed, threw himself out of the saddle, and, passing with -the horse under the bar, regained his seat, without having left the -animal or touched the ground. Loud applause followed the achievement, -and others followed in the game, all with good success. - -As I had seen, in the early part of the day, the skill with which the -gaucho can throw the lasso, Don Carlos expressed the desire to show his -skill with the _boliadores_. Mounting his horse, and removing the three -balls which were fastened to the peak of his saddle, he gave chase to a -cow, and, when within thirty or forty yards of her, whirled the balls -around his head with great force, and cast them towards her. Away they -flew through the air like chain-shot, and, fastening themselves about -the hind legs of the fugitive, tumbled her to the ground in an instant. - -The three _boliadores_ are made of round stones, enclosed in hide -covers; they are attached to the lasso by long sinews of animals. -Wooden balls are used when it is feared that stone _boliadores_ might -break the legs of the animal or bird to be captured. - -_Estancia_ life has a degree of loneliness and quiet that would be -unbearable to any one but those who have been reared in it, or have -lived in places similar in character to the surrounding country. - -On the _estancia_ lives the proprietor and his family, alone in the -solitude of the plains. Around them is one continual monotony, with no -moving thing, as far as the eye can reach, save the herds that graze in -the vicinity of the house. Day after day the same routine is followed, -until, from very habit, it becomes a second nature. The young herdsman -has the few characters around him to imitate; and as he sees but little -of the outside world,--and then only when some _dia de fieste_ attracts -him to the nearest village,--he grows up an exact copy of his father; -so far as character and general mental qualities go, a veritable “chip -of the old block.” Therefore, when we take into consideration the -isolated life of the gauchos, we should willingly pardon some of their -many failings. - -The gauchos of the towns give no more correct idea of their pampa -brethren than do the domesticated Indians of our western country of the -savage tribes of the prairies and forests before the arrival of the -pilgrims. It is only away upon the vast plains that the gaucho is found -in the same half-civilized state that he was in fifty years ago. - -A distinguished Argentine statesman and author, wishing to fairly -civilize the gauchos, formed a society for the purpose, to which -many of the leading _estancieros_ of the province of Buenos Ayres -lent their influence. It was the object of the society, first, to -persuade the herdsmen to eschew all gewgaws, such as silver mountings -for their horses, trinkets, the peculiar costume of the pampas, the -poncho, chiropa, frilled drawers, wide belt, and colt-skin boots. After -they had effected their first object, and dressed the fellows in -pantaloons, coat, and boots, they intended to offer them the means of -education and enlightenment, by means of teachers, books, &c. The plan -has not been carried out, and, according to the last accounts from the -country, it had not met with any real encouragement. The gaucho will -still be a gaucho, in spite of all the efforts of philanthropists to -educate him. - -The character of the gaucho is a curious combination of deceit, -superstition, and hospitality, the latter not real, but only assumed, -with the expectation of gain or reward. Though they show aversion to -manual labor, and are generally proud-spirited (particularly in the -provinces of Buenos Ayres and Cordova), they are easily amused; the -guitar and mazes of the dance possess strong attractions for them, -and they will enter into _la zamba cueca_ with a wonderful degree of -interest. - -The gauchos exhibit a combination of the customs of other countries. -They use the lasso after the manner of the Mexican _vaquero_. Miers -shows that their habit of cooking meat upon a stick or iron spit -(_asador_) came from the Moors, through Spain. They have borrowed -several of their customs from the aboriginal inhabitants,--the use of -the yerba, sucking it through a tube from the gourd, the _maté_, also -that formidable weapon, the _boliadores_, and the lariat, or lasso, -which is used by the pampa tribes and Patagonians. - -The _estancia_ life is best fitted to develop the true gaucho -character; there is a freedom of feeling experienced in coursing over -the boundless plains that is peculiarly agreeable to him. - -A little sketch of _estancia_ life will, perhaps, not prove -uninteresting to the reader. - -First, regarding the right of possession and equality of standing of -the members of the family relative to the property upon which they live. - -The _estancia_ is generally left by will to the wife and children, the -wife one third, the boys and girls equal shares. Sometimes she who has -been called wife, is not legally entitled to the name; but this matters -little; she had the right of the property while her spouse lived, and -the same rule follows after death, unless specially mentioned in the -last will and testament, by her lord, to the contrary. The members of -the family rarely divide the property, but live together as before -the head of the family died, each member consulting the others before -making any sales of stock, &c. - -The peons, or laborers, that live upon the _estancia_, rise half an -hour before sunrise, take a _maté_ without sugar (unless the proprietor -is unusually considerate), and at sunrise select the horses from the -drove in the corral. A portion of the number mount, and gallop off -to their respective herds, to select a new pasturage ground, and to -prevent them from straying away. - -The remaining peons select the half-broken colts, and, after tying them -to stout stakes, entangle the animals with coils of the lasso, tripping -them off their feet, and rolling them on the ground. This is to teach -the young horse to be gentle under difficulties, or, in other words, -not to prance and kick when anything touches the heels. - -At about eight or nine o’clock the peons return, and report to the -_capataz_ (foreman), or to the _estanciero_ himself, the condition -of the animals under their respective supervisions. The daily ration -is then given them, which they cook and eat. Perhaps a colt or mule -is to be ridden for the first time; if so, this exercise follows -their breakfast. At noon the peons return to the little shanties that -surround the dwelling of their master, and, after taking a few _matés_, -and perhaps another _asado_, they stretch themselves upon the ground to -enjoy the siesta hour, which, however, often becomes hours in length. - -The last departure to the plains occurs about three o’clock, and all -the men return about dusk; they sup on the simple roast, drink a few -_matés_, then roll themselves up in their ponchos, and sleep soundly, -with only a skin or hide beneath them, until, from habit, they awake at -the usual hour, and commence the duties of another day. - -The Sabbaths and feast days are strictly kept by the gauchos in their -own peculiar way. They consider it wrong to work on these days, and -when they do, a fine is imposed upon the offenders. But it is perfectly -allowable for men and women to dance, gamble, and fight upon a feast -day. If the traveller is by any chance in one of the small mud towns in -the pampa country, he will see gauchos gallop up into the place from -_estancias_ ten, fifteen, and even twenty leagues distant. - -They pass the day in testing horsemanship, stealing, pitting -fighting-cocks, confessing sins to the padres, and not unfrequently the -_grand finale_ is a general _mélée_, from which few escape without a -wound. On such occasions, he who can particularly distinguish himself -as a _diablo_, is generally treated by the crowd, who ply him with -_aguardiente_, and other liquors, until he sometimes mistakes friends -for foes. A fine of twenty dollars was once imposed on Sabbath and -feast-day breakers,--those who were caught at work. - -As the priests had many saints to distinguish by honoring them with -particular days, the list received continual acquisitions. St. John’s -day, St. Paul’s day, Saint this one, and Saint that, cheated the -laboring classes of the towns out of a living; for all these days were -better adapted for losing money than for acquiring it. But General -Rosas cut down the long list of holidays to the number now observed, -which is more than large enough for a fair share of frolic and piety. - -When dressed in full regalia, the herdsman’s appearance is very -picturesque: in place of pantaloons he wears a _chiropá_ and -_calconcillas_. The former is a square piece of cloth drawn about -the thighs, and fastened around the waist with a belt; it descends -as far as the knees, from which downward the leg is covered with the -_calconcillas_, a wide pair of linen or cotton drawers, finely worked, -and ornamented with two or three frills. The feet are encased in a -pair of _botas de potro_, being the skin stripped from the leg of a -colt, and rubbed until it has become soft and pliable. The heels are -decorated with a pair of iron or silver spurs, of huge proportions, -that rattle and jingle as the gaucho moves about. A shirt, poncho, and -hat complete the costume. - -For ornament and use, the gaucho carries a long knife, placed crosswise -in his belt behind. The hilt is very broad, and contains pockets to -hold tobacco, flint and steel, and horn of tinder; the outside of the -_tirador_, as the belt is called, is covered with silver and base -dollars, that are the gaucho’s pride. - -Upon a feast day the fellow decks out his horse with silver ornaments, -and rides forth to see and to be seen. Not unfrequently his wife rides -behind him, seated upon a poncho laid upon the horse’s croup; but she -is inferior to his horse in the estimation of the rider, upon which -animal is lavished almost all the wealth (if he is poor) of the owner. - -We passed a most pleasant day with Don Carlos, and when we retired to -our couches we felt that the visit had been well worth the time it had -cost. - -On the next morning, as soon as etiquette would permit, we bade adieu -to our host and his family, and, mounting our horses, commenced our -long ride back to Rosario. - -Nothing occurred of importance, or that would interest the reader, and -the next day we were welcomed cordially by the G.’s, my friends at -Rosario. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] General Rosas, late president of the Argentine Republic, owned an -_estancia_, south of Buenos Ayres, that contained seventy-four square -leagues.--Darwin’s _Voyage_. - -[2] In conversation with many gauchos who break in colts for the -_estancieros_, I have been informed this is the price paid them for -their labor, and in hard times even a less sum is paid. This was in the -far interior of the pampa provinces.--_Author._ - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - LIFE ON THE PAMPAS. - - -At sunrise on the day but one following that mentioned at the close of -the preceding chapter, I left the house of my hospitable friend, after -bidding farewell to my amiable hostess, and proceeded with Mr. G. to a -plaza on the outskirts of the town, from whence all troops of carts or -mules take their departure for the interior provinces of the country. - -We entered the square in time to find Don José Leon Perera, the -_patron_ or owner of the caravan, who was reclining upon a skin beneath -the cart that contained his personal property, enjoying his cigarito, -and finishing his fifth _maté_. This gentleman received his visitors -with a pompous wave of the hand, and requested us to be seated, -pointing at the same time to an old wheel lying not far off upon the -ground. - -Some minutes having passed in exchanging compliments, after the manner -of the country, Mr. G. informed the _patron_ that he had with him a -young man who had come from _El Norte_ with the intention of crossing -the pampas, and that he proposed accompanying the caravan on foot; -moreover, as he was inexperienced, it would be necessary to place him -beneath his (Don José’s) protecting care. At mention of my crossing -the plains on foot, Don José, with a stare of astonishment, declared it -could not be done. To the second proposition--that of his assuming my -guardianship--he acquiesced, however, and mentioned upon what terms I -could accompany him. For the use of a horse (in case I should need an -animal), and a place in a cart for my baggage, seventeen dollars would -be required of me--a sum sufficient to have purchased two ordinary -horses, at the prices which they then were sold at. - -Four dollars were demanded for the supply of meat, of which I was to -have an ample allowance; and besides this sum, a fee of one dollar was -to be given to a native--a fellow of villanous appearance--who was to -be my _compañero_ (companion) and cook. It was to be his particular -duty to see that his _protégé_ was well attended, well fed, and guarded -from all harm if the Indians should attack the caravan. Of course I -was to believe that great valor would be exhibited, and much blood be -spilled, by the brave individual who was to be my protector. My new -guardian and the other drivers of the carts differed widely from the -inhabitants of the pampa provinces. They belonged in the northern part -of the republic, in the distant province of Santiago, and spoke the -ancient language of their fathers,--the Quichua,--while the _patron_ -and two or three natives of the lower states conversed in the Spanish -or common language of the country. Knowing that I should be unable to -converse with Don José or his peons while upon the journey, I made a -number of inquiries in relation to the manner of living, and what I -might expect on the trip, all of which, with the assistance of Mr. G., -were comprehended by the natives, and I was answered that luxurious -living, sympathizing friends, and unalloyed enjoyment were to be the -accompaniments of my journey across the pampas. The anxiety that had -caused me many sleepless nights previous to the interview with the -_patron_ and his Indian peons now disappeared, and I looked forward to -opportunities for gleaning, in a rich field, a harvest of information -and valuable facts not yet familiar to my adventurous countrymen. - -Matters having been settled by my paying Don José in advance the full -demands he made, Mr. G. took me aside, and prayed God speed me on my -way. “If you have money with you,” said he, “by no means let it be -seen, as these drivers do not bear a good name, and they would not -scruple to rob you should opportunity offer. The _patron_ I believe to -be honest, and while he is with the troop you have nothing to fear.” He -then bade me farewell, pressed my hand cordially, and we parted. - -Towards noon about one hundred oxen were driven into the plaza, when -each peon, having received his allotted six, conducted them to his -cart. A piece of tough wood, six or seven feet in length, five inches -in width, and three in thickness, served as a yoke; it was laid on the -neck, just back of the animal’s horns, and lashed securely to them by -a long strip of raw hide, thus causing the whole strain to come upon -the head and neck, instead of upon the shoulders, as is customary with -cattle that are yoked as in the United States. - -The carts were most cumbrous affairs, and in appearance were not unlike -a _rancho_, or native hut, set upon wheels. The body consisted of a -framework of sticks covered upon the sides and back with small reeds, -and roofed with cattle hides, which rendered them secure against the -heaviest rain. The carts, which probably exceeded twelve feet in -length, were only four feet wide, and, being mounted upon two wheels -of extraordinary diameter, were sufficiently novel and striking to my -uneducated eyes. The only iron used in their construction consisted of -a few scraps used to strengthen the nave of the wheel; all the other -parts were fastened together by bands of hide, and wooden pins. The -heavy tongue rested upon the yoke of the first pair of oxen, and from -it ran long ropes of hide, which connected with the yokes of the second -pair and leaders. - -The method of driving the oxen practised by these people is most -barbarous. There projects, a few feet from the roof, running forward -of the cart, a portion of the ridge-pole, from which is suspended, by -a piece of lasso, a becket that swings to and fro with the motion of -the cart. This becket supports a heavy cane, nearly thirty feet in -length, having at the end a sharp iron nail that serves to quicken -the movements of the leaders; above the second pair is another goad, -differing from the first by projecting from a wooden cone that hangs -beneath the cane-pole. - -This instrument is called the _picano grande_, and it requires a -skilful hand in its guidance, in consequence of its weight and the -constant oscillatory motion when the wagon is moving. The driver holds -one end in his right hand, and, by constant thrusts, drives it into -the animals without mercy. By lifting the end of the _picano_, the -part outside the becket is lowered, and the perpendicular goad touches -the backs of the second pair, while in his left hand the driver holds -the _picano chico_ (little goad), and spurs the tongue oxen, or those -nearest the wagon, upon which the severest labor falls. The principle -upon which the cattle are guided is also peculiar. If the driver wishes -the ox to turn to the left, the goad is applied to that side, and the -animal follows the direction _pricked_ upon him; if to the right, the -_picano_ is applied to that side, with a similar result. I have seen -the unfortunate beasts goaded until the blood trickled from their -wounds; but still they followed the instrument, upon whichever side -they felt its sharp sting. With small carts, having but one pair of -oxen, the driver sits upon the yoke and tongue of the vehicle, _picano_ -in hand, with his legs coiled beneath him _à la Turque_. - -Everything was in readiness for the journey, but the butcher had not -arrived with the meat for provisions, a delay at which the _patron_ -gave vent to many a _carramba_ of impatience. Shortly, however, a -little, ricketty, two-wheeled cart, lashed together with strips of -hide, was driven into the plaza, and its owner distributed the expected -meat among the different carts. While he was thus employed, some women, -carrying a little tinsel-covered _Santa_, passed around the caravan, -and each peon devoutly kissed the garments of the image, to insure, as -I supposed, a prosperous journey. - -At last the caravan commenced its march, and we bade farewell to -Rosario and to civilization, Don José the _patron_ and Don Manuel the -_capataz_ leading the caravan, on horseback. - -First following them were, creaking loudly, fourteen clumsy carts -loaded with _yerba_, sugar, iron, and other merchandise. Next came -fifteen or twenty spare oxen, as many horses, with about a dozen mules, -driven by an old guide, two youngsters, and the carpenter of the troop, -who also acted as assistant _capataz_. I walked in advance of the -_patron_, though he advised me to enter the cart, as walking, he said, -was injurious to the system. - -Our course lay over a level country covered with fine grass, which, -having been pastured by cattle, was very short. After journeying four -miles, we came to a halt; the oxen were unlashed, and allowed to feed -by the roadside, while the men kindled a fire of thistles, roasted a -strip of meat, and took their gourds of Paraguay tea. - -The manner of cooking meat on the pampas is worth a moment’s attention. -After an animal has been killed, the meat is cut into pieces, without -any regard to anatomy, or to the butcher’s “regular cuts,” and an iron -spit called the _asador_ is run longitudinally through each strip. -The _asador_ is stuck into the ground close by the fire, and, being -carefully watched, the steak is gradually cooked in a manner that would -gain no discredit in a well-regulated kitchen. The result of this -method of cooking is that none of the juices of the meat are lost. - -When our _asados_ were sufficiently roasted, the chief took them from -the fire, and, driving the point of the spit into the ground, invited -me, with a profound salaam, to commence my repast. Cutting a small -piece from the roasted strip, and taking it upon the point of my -knife, I put it, as a matter of course, into my mouth. At this the -group around me broke into a boisterous laugh, and one swarthy fellow -volunteered his services in teaching me how to eat _à la gaucho_. -Drawing from his belt that inseparable companion which the gaucho never -parts with--a long knife--the fellow cut off a strip of meat, and, -holding one end with his fingers, dropped the other into his mouth; -then followed a quick upward stroke with the knife, so close to his -lips that I involuntarily started, severing the meat, and leaving a -huge piece between his teeth. This feat was accomplished so rapidly -that it astonished me; but as I found that it was the universal custom -among the peons, I attempted to imitate them. But on the first trial -the blade of my knife came in contact with the end of my nose, cutting -it enough to draw blood. At this a loud laugh went through the group, -at the expense of “Bostron the gringo,” which name they insisted upon -calling me, notwithstanding my efforts to show that Boston, and not -Bostron, was my native city. - -After the usual _siesta_, we continued our journey. Nothing of -importance occurred until sunset, when, as I glanced across the -plain, it seemed to at once become endowed with life. As the sun -sank below the horizon, the owners of innumerable little burrows, -which I had noticed through the greater part of the afternoon all -over the plains, came out of the holes in such numbers as to astonish -the uninitiated. As I watched one of the holes, I saw first a little -round head, enlivened by a pair of black, twinkling eyes, peeping out; -then followed a dusky body, and, finally, the animal, having become -satisfied that our intentions were not unfriendly, sat by his doorway -with the greatest nonchalance imaginable; but in a moment, after -observing us curiously, he scampered off to join the hundreds, if not -thousands, that were playing about in the grass around us. - -Sometimes we saw an old female trotting along with four or five young -ones on a visit to a neighbor; and frequently we saw some of these -_reunions_, in which, while the old people were exchanging compliments, -the juvenile members of the family chased each other merrily about the -mounds. - -These animals, which bore some resemblance to the marmots, were -called by the natives _bizcacha_. The species is the _Lagostomas -trichodactylus_ of naturalists. Its habits are similar to those of the -proper marmots; in size it exceeds the opossum of North America. - -About the entrance of the burrows I noticed that a quantity of rubbish -is usually collected, such as the bones of deceased relatives and of -other animals, mixed with thistles, roots, &c. These _bizcachas_ are -found all over the pampas, as far south as the confines of Patagonia, -beyond which, however, they have never been observed. - -The singular habit of collecting all compact substances about their -burrows seems peculiar to these animals. A traveller’s watch, which had -been lost, was found at the entrance to one of their domiciles, the -animals having dragged it from the camp near by. - -Darwin says the _bizcacha_ is found as far north as 30° south latitude, -and “abounds even to Mendoza, and is there replaced by an Alpine -species.” - -It is not an inhabitant of the Banda Oriental, east of the Uruguay -River. - -The following accounts of North American species will be interesting -to the reader, since they give a good idea of the habits of nearly -allied species. Audubon and Bachman, in their Quadrupeds of North -America, say of the prairie dog, “This noisy spermophile, or marmot, -is found in numbers, sometimes hundreds, of families together, living -in burrows on the prairies; and their galleries are so extensive as to -render riding among them quite unsafe in many places. Their habitations -are generally called dog towns, or villages, by the Indians and -trappers, and are described as being intersected by streets (pathways) -for their accommodation, and a degree of neatness and cleanliness -is preserved. These villages or communities are, however, sometimes -infested with rattlesnakes and other reptiles which feed upon these -animals. The burrowing owl (_Surnia cunicularia_) is also found among -them. Occasionally these marmots stood quite erect, and watched our -movements, and then leaped into the air, all the time keeping an eye on -us. Now and then, one of them, after coming out of his hole, issued a -long and somewhat whistling note, perhaps a call or invitation to his -neighbors, as several came out in a few moments. They are, as we think, -more in the habit of feeding by night than in the daytime.” - -Lieutenant Abert, who observed the prairie dog in New Mexico, says -it does not hibernate, “but is out all winter, as lively and as -pert as on any summer day.” Another observer states that it “closes -accurately the mouth of its furrow, and constructs at the bottom of -it a neat globular cell of fine dry grass, having an aperture at the -top sufficiently large to admit a finger, and so compactly put together -that it might almost be rolled along the ground, uninjured.” - -Perhaps different winter temperatures in different localities may -govern the habit of hibernation. - -The following sketch, from Kendall’s narrative of the Texan expedition -to Santa Fé, is so interesting that I present it to the reader:-- - -“We sat down upon a bank, under the shade of a mesquit, and leisurely -surveyed the scene before us. Our approach had driven every one to his -home in our immediate vicinity, but at the distance of some hundred -yards the small mound of earth in front of each burrow was occupied by -a prairie dog, sitting erect on his hinder legs, and coolly looking -about for the cause of the recent commotion. Every now and then, some -citizen, more adventurous than his neighbor, would leave his lodgings, -on a flying visit to a friend, apparently exchange a few words, and -then scamper back as fast as his legs would carry him. By and by, as we -kept perfectly still, some of our near neighbors were seen cautiously -poking their heads from out their holes, looking craftily, and at the -same time inquisitively, about them. Gradually a citizen would emerge -from the entrance of his domicile, come out upon his observatory, peek -his head cunningly, and then commence yelping, somewhat after the -manner of a young puppy, a quick jerk of the tail accompanying each -yelp. It is this short bark alone that has given them the name of dogs, -as they bear no more resemblance to that animal, either in appearance, -action, or manner of living, than they do to the hyena. - -“Prairie dogs are a wild, frolicsome, madcap set of fellows when -undisturbed, uneasy, and ever on the move, and appear to take especial -delight in chattering away the time, and visiting from hole to hole to -gossip and talk over each other’s affairs; at least, so their actions -would indicate. When they find a good location for a village, and -there is no water in the immediate vicinity, old hunters say they dig -a well to supply the wants of the community. On several occasions I -crept close to their villages without being observed, to watch their -movements. Directly in the centre of one of them I noticed a very -large dog, which, by his actions, and those of his neighbors, seemed -the chief or big dog of the village. For at least an hour I watched -this village; during this time the large dog received at least a dozen -visits from his fellow-dogs, who would stop and chat with him a few -minutes, and then run off to their holes. All this while he never -left his seat at the entrance to his home, and I thought that I could -perceive a gravity in his deportment not discernible in those by whom -he was surrounded. Far is it from me to say that the visits he received -were upon business, or had anything to do with the local government of -the village, but it certainly appeared so.” - -The _bizcacha_ does not live alone, for in each burrow I found a pair -of small owls, of the species known by the name of the “Burrowing Owl -of South America” (_Athene cunicularia_, Molina). As these birds are -somewhat peculiar in their habits, and some few errors have crept -into the writings of various authors regarding them, I will, for the -information of those interested, present the following sketch of their -habits, the result of observations which I made during my long journey. - -I first met with this owl on the banks of the River San Juan, in the -Banda Oriental, one hundred and twenty miles west of Montevideo, -where a few pairs were observed devouring mice and insects during the -daytime. From the river, travelling westward thirty miles, I did not -meet a single individual, but after crossing the Las Vacas, and coming -upon a sandy waste covered with scattered trees and low bushes, I again -met with several. - -Upon the pampas of the Argentine Republic they are found in great -numbers, from a few miles west of Rosario, on the Paraná, latitude 32° -56′ south, to the vicinity of San Luis, where the pampas end, and a -travesia or saline desert commences. - -On these immense plains of grass it lives in company with the -_bizcacha_. The habits of this bird are said to be the same as those of -the species that inhabits the holes of the marmots upon the prairies -of western North America. But this is not strictly correct, for one -writer says of the northern species, “we have no evidence that the -owl and marmot habitually resort to one burrow;” and Say remarks that -“they were either common, though unfriendly, residents of the same -habitation, or that our owl was the sole occupant of a burrow acquired -by the right of conquest.” In this respect they differ from their South -American relatives, who live in perfect harmony with the _bizcacha_, -and during the day, while the latter is sleeping, a pair of these birds -stand a few inches within the main entrance of the burrow, and at the -first strange sound, be it near or distant, they leave their station, -and remain outside the hole, or upon the mound which forms the roof of -the domicile. When man approaches, both birds mount above him in the -air, and keep uttering their alarm note, with irides dilated, until he -passes, when they quietly settle down in the grass, or return to their -former place. - -While on the pampas, I did not observe these birds taking prey during -the daytime, but at sunset the _bizcachas_ and owls leave their holes, -and search for food, the young of the former playing about the birds -as they alighted near them. They do not associate in companies, there -being but one pair to each hole, and at night do not stray far from -their homes. - -In describing the North American burrowing owl, a writer says that the -species “suddenly disappears in the early part of August,” and that -“the species is strictly diurnal.” - -The _Athene cunicularia_ has not these habits. It does not disappear -during any part of the year, and it is both nocturnal and diurnal, for -though I did not observe it preying by day on the pampas, I noticed -that it fed at all hours of the day and night on the north shore of the -Plata, in the Banda Oriental. - -At longitude 66° west our caravan struck the great saline desert that -stretches to the Andes, and during fourteen days’ travel on foot I did -not see a dozen of these birds; but while residing outside the town of -San Juan, at the eastern base of the Andes, I had an opportunity to -watch their habits in a locality differing materially from the pampas. - -The months of September and October are the conjugal ones. During the -middle of the former month I obtained a male bird with a broken wing. -It lived in confinement two days, refusing to eat, and died from the -effects of the wound. A few days later a boy brought me a female owl, -with five eggs, that had been taken from her nest, five feet from the -mouth of a burrow that wound among the roots of a tree. - -She was fierce in her cage, and fought with wings and beak, uttering -all the while a shrill, prolonged note, resembling the sound produced -by drawing a file across the teeth of a saw. I supplied her with eleven -full-grown mice, which were devoured during the first thirty-six hours -of confinement. - -I endeavored to ascertain if this species burrows its own habitation, -but my observations of eight months failed to impress me with the -belief that it does. I have conversed with intelligent persons who -have been familiar with their habits, and never did I meet one that -believed this bird to be its own workman. It places a small nest of -feathers at the end of some occupied or deserted burrow, as necessity -demands, in which are deposited from two to five white eggs, which are -nearly spherical in form, and are a little larger than the eggs of the -domestic pigeon. - -In the Banda Oriental, where the country is as fine, and the favorite -food of the owl more plentifully distributed than upon the pampas, this -bird is not common in comparison with the numbers found in the latter -locality. The reason is obvious. The _bizcacha_ does not exist in the -Banda Oriental, and consequently these birds have a poor chance for -finding habitations. On the pampas, where thousands upon thousands -of _bizcachas_ undermine the soil, there, in their true locality, the -traveller finds thousands of owls. Again, along the bases of the Andes, -where the _bizcacha_ is rarely met with, we find only a few pairs. -Does the hole, from which my bird was taken, appear to be the work -of a bird or quadruped? The several works that I have been able to -consult do not, in one instance, give personal observations relative -to the burrowing propensities of this owl; from which fact, it will be -inferred that it never has been caught in the act of burrowing. - -We continued our journey while the sun left in the western heavens -beautiful clouds of purple and gray as souvenirs of his company through -the bright, warm day. - -Around us on the plains were many animals in droves and herds, all -preparing for the night. Troops of wild colts galloped homeward past us -at the heels of their anxious mothers, who occasionally halted as if to -dispute our right of passage through their territory. Darkness now set -in, and soon the caravan halted for the night. I made my bed upon a raw -hide, spread upon the top of the cargo in the cart, and was soon fast -asleep; but I was shortly awakened by Don Facundo, who climbed into the -cart, coughing loudly, and saying, by dumb show, pointing towards the -south-west, that a _pampero_ had commenced blowing. The wind, which -was accompanied by rain and hail, violently shook the old cart, and -whistled dolefully through its reed-covered sides. The don’s cough had -increased alarmingly, and he shivered with cold. “_Compañero_,” he -continually called out, giving me a poke to signify something that his -ignorance of the Spanish language would not allow him to express more -intelligibly, for he spoke only the tongue of his native province--the -_Quichua_. I at last handed him my overcoat--an act of generosity -that I afterwards regretted, for, though I applied several times for -its restoration during the journey, he would not give it up, but ate, -slept, and worked in it until we had crossed the country, and it was no -longer serviceable. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - LIFE ON THE PAMPAS--CONTINUED. - - -The night passed drearily away, and glad enough was I when day dawned, -and the caravan was prepared to start. - -Before we began to move, I retired to my cart, and changed my clothes, -appearing before my companions in the unconfined and comfortable garb -of a sailor. - -The moment the peons, who were clustered around the fire, beheld me, -they shouted to each other “_Montenero!_” a word which at that time -I did not comprehend, but which, as I learned some months later, was -the name of a particular class of bandits, who, about 1817, under the -leadership of Artizas, filled the republic with consternation. Probably -my sailor’s dress resembled that of the robbers. - -As the heavy mist rolled off the pampas, we discerned two shepherds -driving their flocks to another pasture; and, as there was no hut -in sight, they had probably passed the night sleeping upon their -saddles, a common custom of the herdsmen. As a specimen of his skill, -the younger of the two spurred his horse after a ram, the patriarch -of the flock, and, as he drew near it, swung the lasso a few times -around his head, and the fatal noose fell over the neck of the animal. -Dismounting from his horse, the gaucho jumped upon the ram, which began -to run for dear life. As they scampered over the plain, I could plainly -see pieces of wool flying from the animal’s fleecy sides, as the rider -plied his sharp, heavy spurs. - -But rams were evidently not created for saddle-beasts, for the animal -stumbled in his flight, upsetting, in a most ludicrous manner, his -rider, who sprawled upon the turf. - -Our caravan was now in motion. As we proceeded on our course, the -pampa gradually became more undulating, and was covered with a coarser -herbage, shooting up in clumps to the height of a foot or more. - -Soon after sunrise we met a party of eight horsemen from Mendoza, one -of whom was armed with a spear, which was ornamented with a flag. About -ten o’clock we passed a miserable _estancia_ house, built of burnt -bricks; we halted near it for the purpose of greasing the wheels of the -carts. This was attended to by the _capataz_. He first cut into thin -slices a pound of white native soap, and, after pouring hot water upon -it, added a little salt, when he beat the whole together with a bunch -of reeds drawn from the sides of the cart. While stirring this mixture, -he would not permit me to look into the pail, but, turning his back on -me, leaned over the mixture, muttering to himself, and making crosses -over it, acting as if afraid that I would discover the recipe for the -wheel-grease. - -Before noon the caravan was again in motion. Three half-starved dogs -that accompanied us gave chase to several deer that appeared in -sight, but they were unable to approach them. These deer (_Cervus -campestris_) are very common on the pampas. They have one habit which -is common to the antelopes of North American prairies. When a person -approaches them, they seem anxious to make his acquaintance, drawing -near, and scrutinizing him with much curiosity. They are a small -species, are of a yellowish-brown color on the upper parts, and white -beneath the body. They are hunted by the gauchos in parties, who pursue -and capture them with the _boliadores_. - -A species of parrot (_Psittacus patagonus_) was observed flying in -large flocks northward. At another time, I observed one or two very -small species, of a green color, with grayish-white breasts. I have -seen the same species in the Banda Oriental, flying in flocks of -considerable size. - -The clearness of the atmosphere gave great effect to the mirages that -we constantly behold around us. Twice we seemed to see large lakes far -in advance of our caravan, but they vanished utterly upon our moving -nearer them. - -On our right, in the distance, the mirage so much resembled the ocean, -that our carpenter, who had been in Buenos Ayres, pointed to it, -exclaiming, “_El mar!_” (the sea). - -Since leaving Rosario, we had met, along the road, flocks of small -white gulls, feeding on carrion; but they, during this day’s march, -became more scarce, and soon disappeared entirely, and we saw no more -of them on the pampas. The little ponds of water before noticed were -now rarely encountered, and it became necessary, therefore, to lay in a -stock before going farther. Each cart was supplied with a long earthen -jar, lashed on behind, which held five or six gallons; these jars were -filled; and these, with one or two demijohns stowed inside, comprised -our water supply,--enough to last several days. - -About three o’clock in the afternoon a long, dark cloud of dust -appeared above the horizon in advance of our troop, and the _patron_, -beside whose horse I was walking, informed me that it was “_una -tropa de Mendoza_.” In the course of the next half hour it made its -appearance in the road before us. - -The troop presented a picturesque appearance as it slowly toiled -along in divisions of ten carts each. The procession was headed by -four or five asses, with pack-saddles and loads, and by a number of -mules without luggage, driven by gauchos. After these followed the -two divisions of carts, filled to such a degree with hides that their -drivers were entirely hidden by them. This troop carried, as usual, a -stock of firewood, consisting of heavy branches and gnarled stumps, -which were lashed to the roofs of the carts. The relays consisted of -thirty oxen and a few old cows, which were also under the guidance -of a crew of almost savage gauchos. At sunset we passed a little -knoll, conspicuous in the midst of the vast plain, surmounted by a -small dwelling; beyond it lay an extensive _pantana_ (swamp), that -we were obliged to traverse, although the labor it cost us was not -inconsiderable. Several yokes of oxen were detached from the after -carts, and connected with those of the leading ones, when, with a vast -amount of uproar and merciless goading, each cart was drawn, in turn, -through the mire. - -We encamped beyond the _pantana_, and supped upon sliced pumpkins, -boiled with bits of meat, and seasoned with salt. I would remark here -that the gauchos never use salt with roasted meat, but frequently -sprinkle it into a stew, if the heterogeneous messes which they -compound and boil in iron pots are worthy of that title. - -Our meal was served in genuine pampa fashion; one iron spoon and two -cow’s horns, split in halves, were passed around the group, the members -of which squatted upon their haunches, and freely helped themselves -from the kettle. - -Even in this most uncivilized form of satisfying hunger there is a -peculiar etiquette, which the most lowly peon invariably observes. -Each member of the company in turn dips his spoon, or horn, into the -centre of the stew, and draws it in a direct line _towards_ him, never -allowing it to deviate to the right or the left. - -By observing this rule, each person eats without interfering with his -neighbor. Being ignorant of this custom, I dipped my horn into the -mess at random, and fished about in it for some of the nice bits. My -companions regarded this horrid breach of politeness with scowls of -impatience; they declared, with some warmth, to the _capataz_ that -gringos did not know how to eat, and, “as they lived upon dogs in their -own distant country, they come to the great Argentine Republic to get -food and grow fat on the gauchos.” I apologized as well as I could, -and endeavored, during the remainder of the meal, to eat according to -gaucho etiquette. - -As night came on, a brilliant scene was developed before us. As -far as the eye could reach, we beheld the ruddy glow of a distant -conflagration of the pampa herbage. Fortunately it did not approach -us, but after giving us a view of one of the most sublime and -magnificent sights in nature, it faded at last away into the south. - -During the night I suffered much from the cold. - -I was awakened on the following morning (Sunday) by my peon, who -gave me to understand, by gestures, that the _asado_ was prepared. -As I joined the company at the fire, the _patron_ approached us with -a poncho filled with watermelons, which he had purchased at the -_estancia_ house on the mound; of these we ate heartily, and they were -delicious. - -As the pieces of rind fell to the ground, they were eagerly devoured -by the dogs, and by two little children that accompanied the troop. I -often pitied these little neglected creatures, and shared with them -my fare. I gave them a portion of my share of the melons, and their -gratitude was warm and demonstrative: they were going to Mendoza with -their mother, the wife of one of the drivers. - -This was the first Sunday spent on the road; and as there was a plenty -of thistles for our fire, and good grass for the cattle, the day was -passed without leaving camp, the gauchos amusing themselves with a pack -of cards. - -I had with me an illustrated Testament. The peons, after gazing -intently upon a picture of the crucifixion, declared that I was a -_Cristiano_, and invited me to play cards with them. - -During the next day we saw a plenty of wire-grass, and at least thirty -deer grazed within a mile of the wagons. No cattle were to be seen. The -wind, which blew from the north-east, was very warm. Our course was -west. - -In a halt which we made during the day’s travel, I turned my blanket -into a poncho, by cutting a hole in the middle, and thrusting my head -through the aperture. When the gauchos saw my new garment, they shouted -in admiration; and one or two, who could speak a little Spanish, -exclaimed, “Gaucho, Bostron!” - -At dark we camped near a corral, or cattle-yard, formed of the _tunas_, -a species of wild cactus. At supper we ate our last morsel of meat -brought from Rosario; the bones were heated upon the fire, then broken, -and the marrow greedily eaten by the men. - -Throughout the night the mosquitos and flies tormented me, until I was -obliged to roll my head in a blanket. - -At dawn the troop set out, in the midst of a heavy shower, without -eating, and kept on until Don José commanded a halt, in order to kill -an old cow which had been purchased at an _estancia_ the day before. - -We camped near a collection of mud-huts, surrounded by a gigantic -growth of cactus, and called _Guardia de la Esquina_. It was the first -place we had met that approached the dignity of a village; but its -qualifications for that title were extremely limited. - -Half a mile south of the _Esquina_ a low brick structure, resembling -in form two sugar-boxes,--one set on its side, and the other placed -perpendicularly against it,--stood alone on the plain. A melancholy -story is connected with this structure. - -Don B, a rich _estanciero_, owned many miles of the surrounding -country; and the report that he had much money buried in the earth -about his brick _casa_ excited the cupidity of the Indians. They came -from the south in a large party, ransacked the place, and carried away -the hoarded treasure, after cutting the throats of the don, his child, -and sixteen peons, all of whom were afterwards buried in a common grave. - -While several of the men were slaughtering the cow, the carpenter, -with two or three others of the troop, guided by a man sent from the -_Esquina_, visited the hole in which the bodies lay. The earth had -fallen in as the bodies had undergone decomposition, for they had been -buried in the usual manner of the pampas, without any other covering -than the clothes worn at the time of death. On reaching the spot, -the gaucho from the town conversed at length with our men; but the -substance of his conversation was unintelligible to me. The carpenter -threw off his poncho, and commenced digging in good earnest, with a -heavy hoe, which he had brought from the carts. - -Two little crosses marked the spot where father and child were laid. -As his implement sank deep into the earth, a dull, crushing sound -announced that it had buried itself in the skull of a man, and the -digger drew forth the tool with a human head, greatly decomposed, upon -it. The hoe had entered between the jaws. At the sight a sickening -sensation came over me; but the _Santiagueños_, who had left their -work, and were grouped around the grave, laughed at my sensations, and -scraped away the matted hair from the ghastly head, which was still red -with blood, with their knives, which they returned to their sheaths -without cleaning. It was a disgusting picture--the natives, with their -bare legs and breasts besmeared with the blood of the animal they had -just butchered, passing the head from hand to hand, and joking at a -calamity that should have excited their pity and commiseration. - -The head of the child was also exhumed, and the two were placed in a -bag to be taken to Mendoza, where the priests could pray over them; -for so long as they remained uninterred in the _panteon_ (consecrated -burying-ground), the souls that once animated them would be kept from -the land of bliss. - -The attack by the Indians had occurred only a short time before our -visit, and the prints of their horses’ hoofs were not obliterated from -the spot where the butchery was done. - -Our caravan continued its course until nine o’clock, and passed Cabeza -del Tigre, a place well known as having been the scene of a transaction -equally lamentable with the one just recorded. The facts were related -to me by a gentleman in whose word I placed great confidence. - -Three English merchants who had made large fortunes in California were -returning to England, and, having their treasures with them, would not -risk a passage around Cape Horn, but landing at Valparaiso, crossed the -Cordillera to Mendoza, and there, in as private a manner as possible, -engaged for the passage of their property in a large troop of carts -bound to Rosario. - -Far better would it have been, as it proved, had they trusted to the -ocean, rather than to have attempted crossing, with their treasures, -a country inhabited by a treacherous and lawless people. Despite all -their efforts to keep the matter secret, it became known that a party -of “gringos” from the land of gold were about to cross the pampas. The -English character is proverbially daring; the three merchants pursued -their course, regardless of the reports of the natives and the advice -of friends. The great travesia was crossed, and they passed through -the provinces of San Luis and Cordova in safety; but when they reached -the vicinity of Cabeza del Tigre, several hundred Indians, mounted on -horseback, and armed with spears, met them on the road and offered -battle. - -The _patron_ ordered the carts to be formed into a square, and the -peons got within its protection. The three white men and the _patron_ -and _capataz_ fought desperately. The Englishmen were armed with -double-barrelled guns, and for a time kept the enemy at bay; one of -them shot a _cacique_ (chief), and this for a time kept the tide of -battle in their favor. - -At that period, Cabeza del Tigre was a military fort; the report of the -guns aroused the soldiers, but for a time they were undecided how to -act, through fear of the savages. At a moment when a vigorous attack -by all the peons would have decided the battle, and some soldiers were -even seen in the distance, galloping towards the spot, the Indians, -with a desperate effort, succeeded in despatching the Englishmen, -secured their treasure, and, before the small military force arrived, -hurried away beyond their reach. - -The amount of money carried off by the Indians was reported to have -been many thousand doubloons. Though this sum seems large, the amount -taken must have been considerable, for my informant said that, for -several weeks after the event had transpired, Rio Quarto and El Moro -were visited by parties of Indians, who were readily admitted as -peaceful visitors, their purpose being to exchange gold onzas for -silver, as they obtained more in _bulk_ of the latter metal by the -transaction. The silver coin was manufactured into rings and other -trinkets. Those intended for the ears were several inches in diameter, -and so heavy that they required to be supported by fastenings to the -hair of the head. - -However lightly the peons regarded Indian murders at the _Esquina_, -their faces assumed a very different expression from that of mirth, -when, during the next day, a troop of mules from the interior passed -us, and the _patron_ informed our company that the savages had cut the -throats of eleven soldiers not far from the very road that we were on. -Their boisterous mirth was over; and during the several succeeding -days I do not remember of having heard a single song, or a light word, -in the company. They all looked dubious enough; one or two tried to -amuse themselves by drawing their knives across their throats in a -significant manner before me, but their efforts only made me smile, and -provoked the other members of the party. - -During the next day we passed over a country destitute of pasturage; -but the road ran along the River Quarto for an eighth of a mile, and we -had, therefore, some muddy water to drink. - -At this place the river trended to the west; the right bank was about -twenty-five feet in height, and as steep us a wall; the left side was -sloping and covered with vines, thorn-bushes, and gigantic cacti, -which in one place formed a natural enclosure, in which I passed -fully an hour, in watching the movements of a bird resembling our -turtle-dove. The river was about twenty feet wide, and had a sluggish -current. - -We passed at dusk the hamlet of Saladillo, but could not catch a -glimpse of it, though Don Manuel wished me to visit it with him; -for, said he, “_Hay mucho pan, mucho queso, e muchas muchuchas -tambien_”--“There is a plenty of bread and cheese, and also a great -many young ladies.” - -Upon the pampas, winds from opposite quarters frequently meet and form -little whirlwinds, that sometimes take up a large cloud of dust, which -helps to relieve the monotony of the journey; but these clouds of dust -not only settle upon the weary travellers, covering them with the fine -powder, but render them exceedingly thirsty. Such was my condition, -when, wayworn and weary, the orders were spoken to halt and prepare -to camp. We had arrived at the borders of a salt lagoon, which was -filled with wild fowl. The confused sounds that came from hundreds of -ducks, teals, loons, white cranes, sand-pipers, and plovers, made it a -second Babel. Around the borders of the lake the soil was white with -saline matter, and covered with the footprints of the _bizcacha_, and I -observed that the grass was trodden down into little paths leading from -their burrows to the water. - -Our last cow had been eaten, and we had already fasted twenty-four -hours, when we prepared to camp, and I was only too glad when the -directions were given to slaughter an ox; and, judging by the alacrity -with which the men set about executing their orders, they were as glad -as myself of the prospect of breaking their fast. - -The animal was thrown down and butchered; its blood was allowed to -run into a hole dug for the purpose, and suffered to clot, when it -was placed in a bladder, and suspended from the roof of a cart, to be -kept for the purpose of coloring the handles of the small goads--the -_picanos chicos_--of the drivers. While a portion of the men were -attending to this work, others were engaged in caring for their cattle, -and others were lighting a fire, which, as other fuel was not to be -had, was made of the argols of cattle. Soon huge pieces of the meat -were steaming and crackling before the heat, and before darkness had -completely enveloped us, we were luxuriating on fresh beef and some -_matés_. - -Supper over, we took refuge in the carts, and although the noise of the -wild fowl on the lake was continued, which to my ears was a very sweet -music, I confess I was soon asleep. - -On the next morning, bright and early, we again took up our march, and -through that day and the next pushed on over the plains. - -From the hamlet of Saladillo, sixty miles westward, we met but two -or three huts and a few salt lagoons. Near one of the latter, six -black-necked swans flew over my head, and I noticed many other fowls -that are common in North America, such as the stilt, green-winged teal, -pin-tailed duck, and the great blue heron. The road was everywhere -covered with saline matter, and the reflection of the sun’s rays upon -it was painful to the sight. - -As we passed a mud hut near one of the lagoons, a woman came out to -sell melons and pumpkins. I visited the hut, but, although it was far -neater than the majority of ranchos on the pampas, it was a miserable -place to live in, for the fleas and _chinchas_ were far too numerous -for comfort. The hut was twelve feet long and seven feet high; it was -a mere framework of sticks lashed together with strips of hide, and -covered with cornstalks, reeds, and mud. It contained two beds propped -against the wall; three or four bottles, a couple of spoons, and an -iron kettle with the _maté_, were the contents of one corner, and the -only furniture the cabin contained. I noticed long strings of sliced -pumpkins drying in the sun; these vegetables keep many poor peons from -starving during the winter time. They are very generally grown, and are -used throughout the country. - -The woman appeared to be frugal and industrious, for she had cultivated -a large patch of melons, and raised numerous families of hens, turkeys, -and muscovy ducks. And I would remark, in passing, that this woman was -not an exception, as regards general fitness for the duties of life, -to her sex throughout the republic; indeed, they seem better fitted to -act in any responsible position, or attend to any duty, than the men; -for of the large class called _chinos_ (pronounced cheenows), produced -by intermarriage of the Spanish and Indians, that cover the pampas, and -compose the lower classes in the more civilized towns, the women are -the most energetic and faithful. - -Our march for several days was monotonous and eventless. Late in the -afternoon of Tuesday, April 10, we camped on the open plain, one mile -distant from the little town of Punta del Sauce (Willow Point), so -called from the scattered willows around it. It contains between two -and three hundred inhabitants, as Don José informed me. The people must -have been sharp-sighted, for we had hardly come in sight of the place -before we saw the townsfolk approaching us. - -Among the many visitors was one that very particularly attracted my -attention, and for some minutes puzzled me to decide as to which sex -it belonged. It was astride a one-eared donkey, which it halted before -our party, without dismounting. While this person conversed with the -_patron_ in gutturals, I had a fair opportunity to survey its ugly -features and shapeless form. The head was enormous, and the hair stuck -out in every direction in wiry curls. The swarthy face, huge lips, -and large bright eyes showed that the negro blood prevailed over the -Indian. What added still more to its ferocious expression was the -long, projecting incisors, which, when the creature spoke, caused it -to resemble a wild beast more than a human being. It wore a calico -tunic, unbuttoned behind, from the skirts of which protruded a thick -pair of round legs, that drummed the sides of the jackass, in lieu of -whip or spur. When Don José informed me that it was _una señorita_ (a -woman), I uttered an exclamation of surprise. But I had not seen all -the beauties, for during the remainder of our journey we fell in with -several others, counterparts of this woman, and, if possible, still -more ugly and disagreeable. During our stay at Punta del Sauce, several -young women (half Indian) brought a poor quality of salt to sell, -together with cheese and melons. I gave an old Indian, who was one of -our drivers, and who had on several occasions shown me a kindness, a -pound of the best salt that I could procure. After tasting it, he put -it carefully aside, perhaps with the intention of selling it, as he -did not use any on the road. While the _patron’s_ back was turned, Don -Facundo, my cook and attendant, sold my meat to a woman of the village -for a few ears of corn; but, as I did not understand his Quichua -language, it was useless for me to remonstrate. The don, with his -messmates, feasted upon their new dish without extending an invitation -to its should-be rightful owner, who was obliged to fast for the next -thirty-six hours. The rascals told Don José some lie to account for the -loss of my meat, and that was the last of it. - -Again we took up our line of march. On the next day we came again to -the river, and I noticed that its banks were in some places perforated -with the burrows or holes of parrots. In this place the water was -clear, and I did not notice any saline deposit upon its banks. - -The woman in our caravan, of whom I have spoken before, on this day -fell and drove a splinter into her foot; and, as she could not extract -it, I offered my services as _medico_. As I was successful, she seemed -overwhelmed with gratitude, and from that time she was almost the only -friend that I had among the people of the troop. - -During our journey on this day, as they were riding along, the _patron_ -and _capataz_ entered upon a geographical discussion, and as their -opinions differed widely, they called upon me to decide between them; -but as Don José had the reputation of a great scholar among his men, I -did not dare to give him any opinion of my own, and they went on in the -same tone as before. - -“Where _is_ Bostron?” asked the _capataz_. - -“Bostron is in France, to be sure,” replied the other. - -“That cannot be, because France is a great way off, and has not got any -moon; and the gringo told me, the other night, that there is a moon in -Bostron, and North America is in the same place.” - -“Fool!” exclaimed the scholar, “North America is in England, the -country where the gringos live that tried to take Buenos Ayres.” - -Each was confident that he was right, and, believing that - - “Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise,” - -I left them to themselves. - -The caravan dragged on its weary pace; at length, as darkness came on, -the peons, looking out of their wagons, shouted, as they pointed ahead -of us, “La Reduccion!” “Reduccion!” - -Soon we drew near the town, which lay surrounded with fields of corn. -As we approached the place, old women and young people came out to meet -us, bringing soft cheese, salt, and unripe melons for sale. When we -reached the outskirts, Don José wheeled his mule and dismounted; each -peon cried “Sh-u-u-ah!” to his oxen, and the tired caravan halted for -the night. On the next morning we again took up the march, and made -considerable progress before sunrise; but the wind from the north soon -came laden with a most horrid heat, and we were obliged to come to a -pause, luckily close beside a river, the valley of which was filled -with tall flags and willows. The water was very clear, and ran over a -bed of sand, filled with scales of mica and quartz. - -At dusk we prepared to cross the stream (the Rio Quarto) at Paso -Durazno (Peach Pass). At this ford the river, which was very wide and -shallow, has a swift current and a stony bed. We intended to spend the -night on the opposite side, so that we could have a fair start next -day. The men stripped themselves, and stood in a line from one bank to -the other. As each cart was drawn slowly past by the oxen, the cruel -fellows goaded them until the blood trickled from the punctures, at the -same time yelling loud enough to be heard a mile at least. Beyond the -river was a hill covered with bushes, and called by the natives San -Bernardo, and to the right of the road a small collection of ranchos -surrounded by patches of corn. - -From the summit of San Bernardo I caught sight of the distant tops of -the Cerro Moro, resembling a silver cloud in the clear heavens. During -the evening we occupied ourselves in drawing trunks of trees from the -river valley, and lashing them to the outside of the carts, and in -filling the jars behind the carts with water, preparatory to a dry -march. - -While we were at supper, three pampa Indian women passed the camp. Two -were very masculine in appearance, the third young and handsome. They -were dressed in loose gowns. As they passed they smiled, apparently -at the consternation their appearance produced among the peons, who -seemed ready to sink into the ground with fear at the presence of -supposed spies. The women were from the pampas, and were on their way -to the village of Rio Quarto. The excitement which their advent created -among our people was a long time in being lulled, and even when I -sought my bed in the cart I heard the eager and animated voices of the -peons, who were busily engaged in preparing for an onslaught from the -dreaded savages. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO. - - -On Saturday, April 14, we unlashed our oxen before Rio Quarto. All -along the road the _patron_ and _capataz_ had spoken of this village, -which they described as being very beautiful, filled with fine -white-washed houses, and inhabited by a wealthy class of people, many -of whom owned thousands of cattle which were pastured upon _estancias_ -outside the village. Besides, it was here that the great Indian -battles had taken place: both the gentlemen failed to inform me that -the Indians were generally the victors, not the _Cristianos_, as they -called the citizens of the village. - -The woman, with her two children, who had travelled with us, set out -for a visit to the village, and, bent upon exploring the place, I -accompanied them. - -Rio Quarto is situated upon a plain, and differs but little in its -general appearance from the other towns. It is laid out in a regular -manner, and is shut in by a mud wall two or three feet in thickness, -and five or more in height. The wall is surrounded by a broad trench -about four feet deep, which serves as a defence against the Indians. -It was hard for me at first to understand the value of this dry ditch; -but I learned afterwards that no more formidable defence was needed -against an attack from the savages; for, during engagements, they never -leave the backs of their horses, and as they cannot leap the ditches, -nor scramble out of them when in, they avoid the obstacles with care. - -At the time of our visit to Rio Quarto, there was no little commotion -among the people; for news had been received of a projected -Indian attack, and the news seemed to be continued by the recent -intelligence that the savages had drawn off from other places, and were -concentrating near the town. - -The garrison had been reënforced by soldiers sent by the governor of -the province. These troops, in their ignorance and alarm, had loaded -an old iron gun in a most singular manner; for they had first put in -several pounds of lead balls and slugs, then rammed in a heavy wadding, -and finally charged with powder. I judged from their manner of loading -cannons, that their efficiency as soldiers, should an attack be made, -would prove of little value. - -The houses of Rio Quarto are built of mud, and thatched with dry grass; -the streets are of mud, the walls are of mud, and the ideas of the -people are muddy thick. They seem merely to exist, rather than live -with any idea of what living is. The few rich men of the village own -the cattle that feed in the surrounding country, while the poorer -classes support themselves as best they can, living on a meagre diet -of pumpkins, peaches, corn, and rarely, meat. They sometimes labor for -their wealthier townspeople, but usually sleep the time away. All the -persons that I met were squalid in appearance, and the children were -half naked. - -The gardens about the town contained but little more than quince or -peach trees. At the corners of the streets were filthy _pulperias_ -(small shops), and the only decent building in town was the church in -the plaza, which was surmounted by a dome, steeple, and cross. On the -side of the building, in place of windows, hemispherical holes were -cut, and covered with muslin; in fact, the only glass that I saw was -in the two or three street lamps. As it was Saturday, the _vigilantes_ -were sweeping the plaza with a large hide, attached to the surcingle of -a horse which was driven around the square. - -Having fasted since the day before, I purchased some bread made in -the place, and shared it with my companions. It was poor in quality, -and contained no small amount of sand and sticks. The flour had been -brought on mules from Mendoza, three hundred and eighty miles distant, -and bread was something of a luxury in Rio Quarto. - -After quite a stay, nearly a day in length, we left Rio Quarto. Our -route lay over an undulating pampa, covered with long grass, but -scarcely a herd of cattle could be seen, and for miles we met with no -evidence that human beings inhabited the country. Water was seldom -found, but the small quantities that we discovered lay in little -hollows of two or three inches in depth, and was of a better quality -than any that we had met with on the road. - -The herdsmen are extremely dirty in their habits, and those who -performed the duty of drivers in our caravan were particularly filthy; -many of them, indeed, showed no token of ablutions performed for many -weeks. - -While the troop halted to rest the oxen close by a pool of water, -I could not resist the temptation to bathe, and, stripping myself, -enjoyed the luxury of a good bath, which had been denied me for more -than a fortnight. I then washed my linen, and returned to the men -who were sitting around the fire, solacing themselves with a round -of _matés_. They laughed heartily at my ideas of cleanliness, and -asked, through Don Manuel, my interpreter, what opinion I had formed -of themselves, who could cross the pampas and return again--a journey -of eighty days--without once applying water to their skins. I replied -that it was my opinion that they were very dirty fellows, and suited -for the country in which they lived. At this answer they again laughed, -and replied that white skins, like those of all foreigners, were -exceedingly inconvenient, because of the great attention required for -retaining its color. - -The next day was Sunday, but the caravan kept on its way as usual. - -Throughout the whole day the sun poured down its scorching rays, and -the hot wind from the north was accompanied by myriads of mosquitos and -minute black flies. - -We had nothing left of the ox that had been finished the day before, -save the head, which had hung upon the outside of one of the carts -for four days, and was in a decomposed state. The sight of the filthy -cranium caused me to wonder why it was not thrown away, for I never -dreamed that it was intended for any use; but it was not to be wasted. - -We had not eaten anything since the morning of the previous day; but -at noon a halt was ordered, a quantity of dried argols of cattle were -collected, a fire was kindled with flint and steel, which the herdsman -always carries in his belt, and an old iron kettle, belonging to one of -the carts, was partly filled with water, and placed above the coals. -When it was properly adjusted, the men piled the dry dung around the -bottom so as to retain the heat beneath it, and soon the water was -bubbling and beginning to boil. The old and decomposed head of the -ox was now brought to the fire. Its contents--the brains, &c.--were -scooped out, and thrown into the pot, and with the addition of a little -salt the stew was complete. At any other time the sight of such a mess -would have disgusted me, but things were changed now, and, faint with -hunger, I watched the boiling of the stew with no little interest. - -At last Facundo, the cook, who had stood beside the kettle during the -whole time, and had occasionally tasted the dish with his horn spoon, -and as often had declared it “excellent,” summoned the party to dinner. -I remember well that I scrambled with the others to get at it, but I -only procured a very small portion, which I was obliged to swallow so -hot that I scalded my tongue severely. - -The meal was finished in a much shorter time than I have occupied in -describing it, and soon each driver harried off to lasso his oxen, -which they lashed to the yokes, and we were again in motion. - -About three o’clock we drew up beside some rough hammocks of earth to -feed the cattle; the country was more undulating, and was here covered -with wire-grass, which the cattle at once began to feed upon. I had -here a first view of the Sierra of Cordova, the boundary line of the -provinces of Cordova and San Luis. - -The _patron_ had purchased an old cow a few days before at San -Bernardo, and having stinted the men as long as possible, he now -decided to kill her. This was no easy matter, for the cow was as -stubborn and furious as any bull, and had only been kept manageable by -attaching her by a strap of hide to another animal equally fierce and -ungovernable. These two animals had required particular care to prevent -them from straying from the troop. - -The strap that bound the two brutes together was cut asunder, and Don -Manuel, the best gaucho of the party, set off in full chase of the -doomed cow, swinging the lasso above his head, and urging on his horse -by repeated applications of the enormous spurs that adorned his heels. -When within eight or ten yards of the animal, the valiant don, with -a fiercely uttered _ca-jo_, let fly the lasso, and at the same time -wheeled his horse. - -The cow, continuing on her headlong course, was suddenly brought up by -the fatal noose tightening around her neck, and she went tumbling to -the ground. - -It was a wonder to me that the fall did not break her neck. She arose, -bewildered, to her feet, and for an instant paused; but quickly -divining the cause of her entrapment, she lowered her head, and made -a run at the don and his horse; but the little animal that he bestrode -having been well trained, was in a gallop before the cow drew near, and -the lasso kept as tight as ever. The victim now uttered a loud bellow, -and charged blindly at one of the cart-wheels: the force of the shock -with which she struck rendered her wild with rage. She bellowed until -the tightened noose choked all utterance, when she renewed her charges -upon the men, horses, and carts. The _patron_ now called loudly upon -Maistro Ramon, one of the leading men, and, mounting his mule, Maistro -galloped to the rescue. - -The cow stood at bay, tossing up the earth with her nose, and stamping -wrathfully with her hoofs; but her new assailant was a skilful gaucho. -He started her, and threw his noose around one of her hind legs, when, -galloping in opposite directions, the two men tripped the animal up, -and stretched her upon the ground. - -One of the peons fastened her four hoofs together with a piece of -hide, and another man officiated as butcher. With his long knife -he despatched her, and in half an hour she was skinned, cut up, -and divided among the carts. When the meat was cooked I ate a -moderate-sized piece, and strolled away from the men, who were -gormandizing beside the fires, to watch the curious feast that the -birds of prey were making upon the refuse parts of the cow. - -Whether some of the birds of prey discover their food by means of -sight or scent, has long been an unsettled question, some naturalists -affirming that the former sense is their principal guide, and others -that the latter is the only one. - -Audubon, in his Ornithological Biography, gives some accounts of -interesting experiments that he made with the turkey-buzzard, proving -that this bird is attracted only by the organs of vision to its food. -Other writers have offered other observations, corroborative of -Audubon’s position. And I would here present a fact that came to my -observation, concerning one of the most common South American birds, -helping to show that Audubon was correct in his opinion. - -Before the cow was butchered, I searched the plain, but not a single -caracara (_Polyborus Brasiliensis_), the well-known carrion-lover of -the pampas, was visible. There was no wind stirring, and had there -been, the scent of the fresh offal of the cow could certainly not have -been carried to any distance. But the cow had hardly been butchered -when a single caracara was seen on the horizon. He had hardly alighted -beside the offal when another and another were distinguished, coming -in the path of the first. For half an hour they continued to arrive, -all coming from one direction, and as one alighted upon the carcass -another came in view, flying straight to the spot where the others were -collected. I remained watching them for a long time, and when I left -there were at least fifty birds on the spot, and the line of flight was -still unbroken; each new comer being greeted by the others with their -indistinct guttural ca-ra-ca-ra! Now, of course, all these birds had -not been attracted by the sense of smell, for the supposition that the -scent of the newly killed animal could have travelled miles in a few -moments is simply preposterous. - -The birds must have been flying in air, on the lookout for food, and, -as they are filled with a most wonderful vision, on seeing the first -one hurrying in one direction, the natural inference must have been--if -birds draw inferences--that he was hurrying to something to eat. The -birds nearest him followed him, others followed them, and they arrived -at the slaughter-ground in the order in which they started for it--the -nearest first, and the farthest last. - -Perhaps a more extended account of the caracara will not be -uninteresting to the reader. - -The caracaras feed upon anything that comes in their way, gleaning -carrion like the buzzards, and killing other birds like the hawks. I -even once saw one attack a lamb, but the old dam interfered, and after -receiving some rebuffs from the bird, succeeded in protecting her -offspring from her enemy. - -This bird possesses an unenviable reputation as a thief among the -gauchos, and, as it kills young birds, lambs, even seizes the game that -the hunter has just killed, it is far from being a favorite with any -class of the people. - -It inhabits an extended geographical range. I have seen it in -south-western Texas and in most parts of South America. This species -is the “Mexican Eagle.” A fine bird, indeed, for the emblem of a -nation!--it is emblazoned upon the Mexican flag; but we of the North -must not be too critical, for we still retain upon our banner and coin -that selfish thief, the bald-headed eagle--the most relentless robber -and pirate of our rapacious birds. - -The caracara is sometimes found in company with the _Gallinazo_ -(_Cathartes atratus_), also known to the people on the Plata as the -carrion crow. This latter bird is found north of the Rio Negro in -various localities, not being met with except near the rivers and damp -places. I did not observe them about Buenos Ayres, but found them -afterwards common dwellers about the vicinity of Mendoza, along the -bases of the Andes. The habits of the turkey-buzzard are so well known -that I will not dwell further upon them here. I have noticed that the -species seems to be tamer on the southern continent than it is on the -northern. It has the extended range of one hundred degrees of latitude. - -Though somewhat repulsive from the offensive odor which it receives -from its food, this bird is one of the most useful species. As a -scavenger and remover of decaying animal matter in the tropics it is -invaluable, and it is properly protected and cared for in many cities. - -At noon, April 6, we reached the mountain range that had loomed -up before us for several days, and camped at its base. The sierra -terminated in low hills, barren and destitute of verdure, save where -occasional clumps of dwarf trees grew about their bases. A little -rivulet, taking its rise in the mountains, flowed down through a deep -fissure in the soil, and afforded good water for the cattle. - -We remained at this comfortable camp through the remainder of the day -and night, but started early the next morning. - -The monotony of our journey was disturbed by the arrival and passing of -a troop of sixty mules loaded with little barrels of sugar and hide -bales of _yerba_ (tea). This troop was driven by six men, and was bound -to Mendoza. Like similar parties, the troop was headed by an old mare -carrying a bell, the sound of which keeps the animals from straying -away. - -Though the mule is a stubborn creature, it has a very strong affection -for the _madrina_, as the mare is called, and follows her like a colt. -I have often watched two large troops approaching each other from -opposite directions, in some place where the road was very narrow, as -in a mountain defile, and have been surprised to witness the absence of -all bewilderment on the part of the animals. Though both troops were -crowded together, each mule kept with his own party, and followed the -sound of the _madrina’s_ bell, even in the darkest night. - -Having wound around the point of a sierra, our caravan kept on until -dusk, when we camped for the night, supping upon beef and four -armadillos, which the peons had caught during the day in the grass. - -The armadillo is a singular animal, both in appearance and mode of -living. Four species are found upon the pampas. In Buenos Ayres they -are known by the general name of _peluda_. Darwin applies this term to -a particular species--_Dasypus villosus_. - -The gauchos call the female armadillo _Mulita_, which name Darwin uses -to distinguish a separate species. The male is called _Cinquizcho_. - -As my readers doubtless are aware, the body of the animal is protected -by a coat of hard scales, consisting of several divisions, adapted to -the locomotion of the animal. Its head is pointed, and is scantily -clothed with little tufts of hair which grow out between the scales. -The feet and legs are short, giving the animal, when walking, a -waddling gait, similar to that of the tortoise. The toe nails are -sharp, and admirably shaped for rapid burrowing in the ground. - -All the armadillos, with the exception of one species, which is -nocturnal in its habits, are diurnal, retiring to their burrows at -dusk, and coming forth at dawn to feed upon the roots of grass, -insects, worms, &c. - -Their burrows do not exceed eight feet in depth. In these retreats the -female brings forth four or five young, which follow her, soon after -birth, in her journeyings upon the plains. When man approaches them, -if near a burrow, they retire into it; but when they are distant from -home they endeavor to hide in the grass until all danger is past. While -in most localities these animals were found, to the south of Rosario -and Mendoza they were very numerous. The females of one species that I -frequently met had two mammæ. I think the others had four or six. - -The flesh of the armadillo is white and delicate, and has the flavor of -young pork. The peons cook the animal by dividing the two shells at the -junction, and burying the whole in hot ashes and coals, and allowing it -to bake until thoroughly done. - -Darwin, in his account of these animals, says that three species of -armadillos are found in this country, while a fourth species, the -_Mulita_, does not come as far south as Bahia Blanca. Of these first -mentioned are the _Dasypus minutus_, or Pichy; the _D. villosus_, -or Peludo; and the _D. apar_, or Mataco. The Pichy is found several -hundred miles farther south than any species. - -The Apar, commonly called mataco, is remarkable by having only three -movable bands, the rest of its tessellated covering being nearly -inflexible. It has the power of rolling itself into a perfect sphere, -like one kind of English wood-louse. In this state it is safe from the -attack of dogs; for the dog, not being able to take the whole in its -mouth, tries to bite one side, and the ball slips away. The smooth, -hard covering of the mataco offers a better defence than the short -spines of the hedgehog. The pichy prefers a very dry soil, and the sand -plains near the coast, where for many months it cannot taste water, -are its favorite resort. It often tries to escape notice by squatting -close to the ground. In the course of a day’s ride near Bahia Blanca -several were generally met with. The instant one was perceived it was -necessary, in order to catch it, almost to tumble off one’s horse, -for in the soft soil the animal burrowed so quickly that its hinder -quarters would almost disappear before we could alight. It seems -almost a pity to kill such nice little animals; for, as a gaucho said, -while sharpening his knife on the back of one (the gauchos often use a -portion of the armadillo’s armor for a knife hone), “_Son tan mansos_” -(they are so quiet). - -Another writer informs us that the armadillos “burrow to the extent of -thirteen or fourteen feet, descending in an abruptly sloping direction -for some three or four feet, then taking a sudden bend, and inclining -slightly upward. Much of their food is procured beneath the surface of -the earth. They possess carnivorous tastes, and feed upon dead cattle, -insects, snails, snakes, as well as upon roots. The giant armadillo, -according to one writer, digs up dead bodies in the burial grounds.” - -“When hunting these animals,” says Waterton, “the first point is -to ascertain if the inhabitant of the burrow is at home, which is -discovered by pushing a stick into each hole, and watching for the -egress of mosquitos. If any come out, the armadillo is in his hole. A -long rod is thrust into the burrow in order to learn its direction, -and a hole is dug in the ground to meet the end of the stick. A fresh -departure is taken from that point, the rod is again introduced, and by -dint of laborious digging the animal is at last captured. Meanwhile the -armadillo is not idle, but continues to burrow in the sand in the hopes -of escaping its persecutors. It cannot, however, dig so fast as they -can, and is at last obliged to yield.” - -While we were lying behind the fire, after supper, a loud, creaking -noise in the distance announced the approach of a caravan from Mendoza. -As it drew near our dogs commenced barking, and were answered by the -mule of the captain of the caravan with a loud bray. While the concert -continued, other mules and asses took up the strain, and our camp was -“vocal with melodious sounds” as the caravan came in sight. As they -passed I counted sixteen wagons heavily laden with cargoes of hides. - -A fresh breeze from the east was springing up as I lay down on my -hide amid dogs and sleeping natives, and as I dozed away, it seemed -difficult to decide which of the two was the most agreeable bedfellow; -for as it grew colder, and a sharp frost came on one dirty fellow -crowded me off my hide, and a still more filthy dog, covered with -fleas, crept under my blanket, from the shelter of which no moderate -effort of mine could remove him. At last, becoming desperate amid -dirt and flea-bites, I dislodged the intruder by a kick sharp enough -to cause him to cry out, and arouse his master Facundo, who waxed -exceedingly wrathful at such demonstrations on his dog by a “gringo.” - -Early the next morning the caravan was on the march, and for an hour -our course led over high hills and across one small stream that flowed -from the sierra behind us. After crossing these hills I observed -beyond, along the bases of some low mountains, a few fields of corn -and a number of mud huts, where dwelt, in all their indolence, a party -of natives--half Indians, half Spanish, or Christians, as Don Manuel -called all his countrymen on the pampas. - -As our troop trudged slowly along, some fifteen men, women, and -children followed in our track, offering to sell corn, soft cheese, and -a few loaves of bread, very small, and containing a goodly proportion -of sand. These loaves had not been baked in the ashes after the more -primitive fashion of the country still practised in many parts, but -in Egyptian-shaped ovens, built of adobes (sun-dried bricks), and -plastered within and without with mud. I purchased a sample of the -bread, which proved even tougher than the meat of the old cow, and was -not half as clean; but being a new article of food to us, it, proved -a luxury not to be despised. One woman, who exchanged corn with the -drivers for meat, presented me with nine ears of the corn. Knowing from -the experiences of the journey, that after a feast comes a fast, I hid -the corn inside a pair of boots among the rest of my baggage in one of -the wagons, and felt well armed against the hungry time that was sure -to follow. - -An hour later the caravan halted. While the cattle were grazing, -overpowered by the long walk under a hot sun, I lay down to take a -short siesta, from which, on awakening, I discovered that somebody had -carried off my little stock of food. - -From this occurrence I never afterwards _stored_ food, but ate whatever -came into my possession. - -At dusk two well-dressed travellers, who proved to be Frenchmen, came -up to our encampment, and made inquiries regarding the road. They -reported that serious trouble had occurred near San Luis among the -farmers, the Indians having cut the throats of fourteen persons! This -intelligence caused much speculation among the drivers, and, as before, -a general gloom pervaded the whole company. - -As soon as everything was arranged in camp for any emergencies that -might occur, I rolled myself up in my blanket, and soon forgot all -troubles in sleep. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO--CONTINUED. - - -While all around me seemed to offer danger in some form, I grew -lighter at heart every day that we further penetrated the country, -for everything was novel and captivating to the fancy. I was at last -among a strange people, and their habits and mode of life, and the many -incidents that were constantly occurring, were full of interest to me. -Although my heart was light, and I trudged along cheerfully and with -courage, my companions in the caravan were but little calculated to -make the trip a pleasant one; and I must say that they did not try to -change their evidently disagreeable nature. - -The rations I received from the tall Santia gueño, my “protector and -firm friend,” were selected from the toughest and driest portions of -the meat, while he devoured my living, and at the same time, at meals, -called the attention of the whole company to the unsuccessful attempts -I made at mastication. - -At times, when indignation caused me to reply in no gentle terms to -their conduct, in a tongue different from theirs, I perceived my folly, -for it only served to draw out more jibes and greater insults from the -fellows. - -When we were in motion, to avoid uncongenial company, I started in -advance of the troop, and kept far ahead of it. Sometimes I improved -these opportunities to brood over the ill-treatment of the men; but at -sight of a wild animal, or a gaucho pursuing a colt across the plains, -an instant revival of my spirits took place, and my whole senses were -awakened to things around me. - -I usually had enough to occupy my mind; sometimes I was studying the -habits of birds or insects, at others following with my eyes the -movements of a herd of cattle, or gazing upon the mirage in the distant -horizon, in which our caravan was reflected with wonderful distinctness. - -I have said that the peons had not treated me with great friendliness -lately; but since we left Rio Quarto their coolness grew more -noticeable, and at length I began to fear that we should not part -without a collision, in which case I knew I could depend on but two -people in the whole caravan, the old Indian and the woman spoken of in -a preceding chapter. - -These two had always treated me kindly, while all the others had given -me uneasiness in some way or other. - -Before the troop had left Rosario, my friend, Señor G., cautioned me -against showing money, and I had followed his advice, having departed -from it only on one or two occasions. When near Rio Quarto, not wishing -to be thought penurious, I had imprudently purchased more than my share -of the pumpkins and melons, which served to regale the peons at night, -when collected around the camp-fires; and this had caused the ignorant -fellows to suppose that there was _mucha plata_ (much money) in my -possession. And this was the cause of their ill-feeling towards me. - -Several times they were particularly anxious to know if I had friends -in Mendoza, and who were the persons that would receive me on the -arrival of the troop in that town. I at last found it necessary to -introduce to their consideration a character as new to myself as he -was to them. One night, when we were lying around the fires, I, after -describing my home and friends, casually remarked that one of them, -a medico, the distinguished Dr. Carmel, of Mendoza, was anxiously -awaiting my arrival, and that his apprehensions for my safety would -increase until I reached the town. - -To the reader whose conscience has never been subjected to violence, -this subterfuge may appear unmanly; but, in justice to myself, I was -obliged thus to impose upon the peons, and the result fully proved it. - -Under Dr. Carmel’s strong (prospective) arm and influence I found more -peaceful hours, and suffered less from annoyance than if his name had -never been mentioned, or if the villanous fellows had been left in -their first belief; which at the same time was correct, that I was a -friendless _gringo_, to whom they might offer any insult without fear -of punishment. In what manner was I, a solitary stripling, to protect -myself against more than a score of barbarians, in the very heart -of a country to the languages and localities of which I was a total -stranger, unless by subterfuge? - -But my troubles were not yet over. - -While walking, as usual, one day, in advance of the carts, which -came slowly creaking behind, my attention was directed to Juan, the -little son of my female friend, who came running after me. Juan spoke -only broken Spanish; but upon reaching my side he commenced a voluble -discourse, which, however, I gave little notice to, supposing it to be -merely childish prattle. At length the boy took my hand, and demanded -my attention. - -From what he said, I could, indeed, glean but little; but it was enough -to confirm my suspicions, which I had had for some time, that some -rascality was being planned by the drivers. From mispronounced words -and broken sentences, I received warning not to eat with the _capataz_ -at the fire,--“_Sta malo no come con él_,”--and to be cautious when -with the men. Juan said that his mother had sent him to tell me this. -The little fellow was about to communicate something further regarding -his mother, when he suddenly became silent, and squeezed my hand. I -looked around, and beheld _Chico_, the servant of the _capataz_, close -upon our heels; he had stealthily approached, without attracting our -notice. - -“Why do you walk?” interrogated little Juan. - -To this question the swarthy Chico, half Indian, half negro, made no -answer; but he uttered a sly laugh, that meant a good deal. We walked -on for upwards of an hour, during which time the half-breed kept close -behind us. - -Watching favorable opportunities, Juan informed me that the _capataz_ -had sent his servant to prevent us from conversing; and seeing that he -was determined to remain by us, I at length, with the boy, rejoined the -troop. - -When the caravan halted for the night, I walked over to the fire where -the China woman was seated; but two or three gauchos from our own fire -followed me, and engaged the woman in conversation. - -In the aspect of affairs now, I confess I was somewhat alarmed, and -more than ever felt the want of a companion on whom I could depend. The -words of a foreign merchant, with whom I had conversed in Buenos Ayres, -were recalled most forcibly to me. “My boy,” he said, “you don’t know -whither you are going. When you get among the gauchos, you will find -much trouble and danger.” And I acknowledge that I now felt he spoke -the truth. - -The men still kept the woman aloof from me. I determined to take things -coolly, and await events. - -Don Manuel came to the fire late in the evening, and, taking his -meat in his hand, galloped off in the dark to see to the cattle. I -now missed Don José, the _patron_, whose protecting arm was to be my -support in danger. On inquiring of Facundo, my cook, he pointed off -into the gloom, and uttered the Spanish word “_Estancia_,” by which I -understood that the _patron_ was at some one of the great cattle-farms -lying off the road. - -I now felt that I was unprotected, indeed; and when the hour arrived -for our lying down to sleep, I was uncertain as to whether or not -I should remain unmolested through the night. But the time for the -attempt on my purse, if not life, had evidently not arrived. I was -permitted to fall asleep, which I did at last; and our whole party -evidently accompanied me in my visit to the land of dreams, for nothing -was heard among us, and no one moved (if they had I would have been -awakened in an instant) until daybreak. - -When the sun was just appearing above the horizon, the _capataz_ came -galloping up to the carts, and soon the word was spoken to get up the -oxen and mules, and prepare to start. - -I remained in the cart to write in my journal until the ugly-visaged -Facundo appeared to inform me that my breakfast was ready. As I -approached the group that was huddled about the fire, not one of them -deigned to notice me, save one big fellow, who, with an obsequiousness -that I knew to be assumed, pointed to the breakfast. - -The strips of meat had been removed from the fire, and the spit, in a -separate piece, was stuck into the ground, waiting for me. This was an -unusual attention, for I generally shared my meat with the _capataz_, -or with Facundo. The _capataz_ sat smoking by the fire, but the -_patron_ had not yet returned from the _estancia_. I offered my steak -to Don Manuel; but he courteously declined, appearing to lack appetite. -He refused a second similar offer, and continued smoking. - -Determined not to be balked by him, as I wished to prove my suspicions -that mischief was afoot, I informed him that he lacked politeness, -and that I would not eat without him. The effect of my words upon the -company was of such a character that I could no longer doubt their -intentions. - -At length Don Manuel, seeing that I suspected something, cut off from -the extreme edge of the steak a mouthful or two, and ate it, upon -which I cut from the opposite side a little larger piece, and ate it -leisurely. I then cut off another piece, and, pretending to eat it on -the way, left the party, and retired to the cart to finish my writing, -throwing the meat in the grass on the way. - -Fifteen or twenty minutes passed, at the end of which time I was -compelled to put aside paper and pen, for a strange sensation of -weakness came upon me, rendering me unable to move--a helpless prisoner -in the cart. - -Violent pains, that racked my head, were followed by strong vomitive -symptoms; but I was still helpless. - -While the oxen were being harnessed, I made a second effort to leave -the cart, but I could not rise. Soon the villanous Facundo entered, -and, bidding me, in no gentle tones, to keep quiet, and not kick -around, he started his oxen, and, with the rest of the caravan, we were -again in motion. - -I soon fell into a delightful sleep, and dreamed most pleasant dreams. -At one moment I was moving through the air, light, free from human -bonds, a very spirit; my whole senses were intoxicated with most -delicious sensations. Again I beheld most beautiful visions and most -gorgeous colors. At last I seemed to have been transported back to my -native village, and kind friends were grouped around me. The voice of -welcome greeted me, all trouble seemed ended. A clear, sweet voice sang -a well-remembered song, which seemed to be the very essence of melody, -so ravishingly did it fill upon my ear. - -Gradually the voice grew indistinct, then loud and harsh, and I -returned to consciousness to recognize the tones of Facundo, who was -singing to himself. His discordant words were uttered in a long-drawn -cadence, commencing in a low, mournful strain, and ending with a -couplet and groans. - -The following syllables will give an idea of his song. They were -repeated so many times that I shall hardly forget them:-- - - “Que pur ma no yepe--_oh_--AH--OUGH. - Ya, ke, pur, se, va, yah--_oh_--OH--AH--OUGH.” - -Facundo continued groaning, either for his own pleasure or for my -discomfort, during the greater part of the time that I lay sick in the -cart. - -At our first stopping-place, about two hours after breakfast, the -woman sent me, by little Juan, a tea that she had prepared from some -herbaceous plant of the pampas, to gather which she had walked all the -morning behind the carts. - -I felt much better after drinking the tea, but did not entirely recover -from my sudden illness for several days. I subsequently learned that -it was not unusual for the Santia gueños to revenge a fancied insult, -or to annoy one whom they have a dislike for, by administering poison, -sometimes in sufficient quantities to destroy life, and at other times -in a quantity sufficient to produce only sickness. They had undoubtedly -taken advantage of the absence of the _patron_ to treat me as they did. - -The first time I sallied forth from confinement I was received in a -characteristic manner by the drivers, who clapped their hands to their -stomachs, and questioned me with impudent gestures if I was not ill, -and what was the trouble. The good woman only said, compassionately, -“_Pobre cito_” (poor fellow). - -During my sickness I continued to write daily, much to the annoyance of -Facundo, who looked threateningly at my notes, as if he suspected his -name was there. I even went so far as to ask him how he spelt his name, -which was a useless question enough; for had he been disposed to inform -me, he could not, since he knew not one letter from another. - -My illness cost me but little time, and I was soon able to resume my -pedestrian journey, and by night of the same day I was nearly well. - -Our journey had been through the day across a hilly country. As evening -drew near, we reached a watering-place, which afforded an abundance of -feed around it, and the caravan was halted, and camp prepared. - -At supper I was cautious to eat only of the food that I saw the others -partake of, which they observing, I noticed that glances and meaning -smiles were exchanged among them. - -Early the next morning we were again in motion. - -The country was still broken, and we met several deep gullies, which -we crossed with great labor, it being necessary to attach extra yokes -of oxen to the carts to effect a passage. One of these gullies was so -dangerous, on account of the steepness of its sides, that a pair of -oxen were fastened behind the cart to prevent it from gaining too great -a velocity in its descent. - -Near this latter pass was a five by six stone hut, roofed with -sticks and mud, which served as a post house, where the galloping -courier receives his fresh horse. Two women, with low foreheads and -heavy features, came out of the cabin, followed by an old man, the -postmaster, to stare at us, and inquire if the drivers had any sugar or -yerba to exchange with them. For what articles they proposed to barter -I could not conceive, as the open side of the hut showed an interior -destitute of everything like comfort; for it contained only an old hide -and bedding, and one cheese, that rested upon a swinging shelf made of -canes bound together with hide thongs. - -Like many of the poor gauchos, the postman smoked bad Tucuman tobacco, -rolled up in a narrow piece of corn-leaf, a material that is preferred -by some to the coarse linen paper manufactured in Europe for the South -American market. - -Among the hills that bounded our northern horizon, and which some -travellers would classify as mountains, the wind blows almost -constantly with great force from various quarters. The smallest of the -hills were well grassed over, and wherever the ruts entered the soil -near them it showed a sandy gravel. Upon the plains to the south was -the richer pasturage, with a soil better fitted for cultivation. - -At night we encamped close by the hamlet of El Moro, situated, as I -believe, not far from the foot of Cerro Moro, a chain of low mountains. - -At daylight the next morning the caravan wound down among the hills to -a level pampa, with barren mountains to the north. - -The Mendoza diligence passed, drawn by six tired horses. Besides -drawing his share of the weight of the carriage, each animal carried -upon his back a postilion, who did not fail to use whip or spur as -necessity demanded. - -The plain that we were upon was covered with immense piles of -decomposed granite, how placed in such positions it is difficult to -surmise. The thorn and algarroba tree grew abundantly. Our course for -the remainder of the day continued over the pampa, with hills growing -more distinct each hour in the distance: a strong wind blew steadily -from the Cerro until dark, when it died away, and a calm, lovely night -succeeded. - -The following day we left the plains, and travelled through a hilly -country, which gradually became more and more irregular as we -approached the River Quinto, which stream we reached about noon, and -halted on its banks for dinner. - -The country near the river was sandy, and covered with scattered -thorn-bushes. The banks of the Quinto, at the ford where we camped, -were high, and almost perpendicular. The bed of the river appeared to -be formed of quicksand in agitation, and the current was very strong. A -few mud huts were close to the river on each side, and their occupants -had a great quantity of beef cut in strips, drying for winter use, -together with sliced pumpkins, which two articles of diet form the -principal support of the people; the sterility of the soil will not -support a healthy crop of corn. - -Large flocks of parrots, of a species that dig holes in the banks in -which to deposit their eggs, like our northern bank swallows (_Cotyle -riparia_), filled the air with loud cries, and gave some appearance -of life to the scene. The town of Rio Quinto was not far off; but as -the road lay in a different direction, I did not get a glimpse of -it, but, judging by the few lazy natives that I saw, who appeared -as if laboring under mental derangement, with two prominent traits -visible,--selfishness and idleness,--I did not feel that I was losing -much in not visiting the place. - -Dinner over, we prepared to move. Crossing the river, we found the -ascent of the opposite bank the most difficult to surmount of any -obstacle we had met on the road; great exertions were made to get -the carts up the rise, and the oxen were most terribly goaded by the -drivers. One peon, with loud imprecations, thrust his goad into an -animal so far that it could not be withdrawn until the iron was pulled -out of the goad-stick, when the man caught it, and jerked so fiercely, -that when it came from the wound the blood followed it in a little -stream. This exhibition of brutality afforded satisfaction to the other -drivers, who laughed at the fellow as he cursed the ox for being the -cause of the breaking of his new picano. At last we were all across the -river and in motion. - -The high plain upon the opposite side was covered with thorns and -algarroba, save here and there some spot more fertile than the rest, -which sustained a growth of coarse grass. In crossing this tract the -wheels of the carts sank into the deep ruts to the hubs, and raised -clouds of dust that were almost choking. - -I covered myself with a woollen poncho, for I well knew that it was -doubtful if an opportunity to bathe would again present itself before -we reached San Luis, the great town of the interior. During the -afternoon a little boy passed us, driving to his house by the river a -flock of goats and sheep; the last-named animals looked very ragged, -from the custom of the people, who still adhere to the old practice of -_pulling out_ the wool from the skin instead of shearing, at such times -and in such quantities as they need it. - -As the moon was a few days old, the caravan kept on until eight -o’clock, when it encamped on the travesia. - -The cattle were driven a long distance from the road to feed, but no -pasturage was to be had, and at about one o’clock I was aroused by the -approach of the cattle, and the loud cries of the drivers, who shouted -“_Fuera! fuera!_” as they drove the teams to the carts. - -The moon had set, and the night was very dark; but the necessity of -moving at once was obvious, for there was no water nor grass to be had -for many miles, and both must necessarily be obtained at the earliest -moment for the hungry and thirsty beasts. - -We got under way at once, and travelled by landmarks with which the -drivers were acquainted. As we moved along the plain, the noise of the -caravan aroused hundreds of parrots from a roosting-place among the -branches of a clump of algarrobas. An Indian stampede could not have -created a more confused or louder noise than that of the frightened -parrots, as they hovered over us in a cloud. - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. - - -We travelled through the remainder of the night, and until near eleven -o’clock on the following day, when we encamped at a place in which -there was a fair pasturage and some water. Here we tarried until -the morning of the next day, when we filled our vessels with water, -harnessed up the teams, and started. - -Our course lay through a country that was dreary in the extreme, and we -had no incidents or experiences that were worthy of a notice here. - -My readers have found in these pages so many mentions of a certain -individual, the _capataz_, that they, perhaps, would like to know him -better. - -As _capataz_, Don Manuel Montero commanded the troop when the _patron_, -or owner, was absent, and his services as _baqueano_, or guide, were -of the utmost importance to the welfare and success of the caravan. -Don Manuel had not the swarthy complexion of the Indian peons, but -could prove his superiority of birth and family in comparison to -theirs by a hue that would have been pronounced in the United States -decidedly yellow, that is, if his physiognomy could have been divested -of dirt so as to exhibit the true color; for the don loved not pure -water externally applied, and would have been but a poor patron of -hydropathy, even could he have been convinced of its wonderful virtues. -He was of middle stature, and sat with great dignity upon his pampa -steed, which he rarely left during the day; for, being a true gaucho, -he always kept the saddle except when he was eating or sleeping. These -two necessary duties he attended to while reclining on the ground--a -position that he always assumed when off duty. To sleep within a hut or -cart was beneath his gaucho dignity. - -His hair hung in long black locks, excelled in jettiness only by those -of Facundo, my cook. His toilet was attended to at such times as the -same operations were necessary for the comfort of his dog Choco, when -master and animal shared the use of the same toilet articles. I might -write a treatise upon his comb, in which I could speak of its decayed -and broken parts; of its lusty and lively inhabitants that played -hide-and-seek between the teeth; of a brawny, lively creature from the -hair of Don Manuel struggling for mastery with another from the shaggy -coat of dog Choco. - -As a guide the don’s skill was unrivalled. Like most _baqueanos_ he was -grave and reserved in manner, and conversed but little with the other -gauchos. - -He was familiar with every mile of the road from the banks of the -Paraná to the rocky bases of the Andes. He could not, like the -geographer, tell the exact longitude, in numbers, of the principal -towns of the republic, but he knew where they were situated, and could -travel towards them without missing the true direction in the darkest -nights. - -Don Manuel never offered his advice in a boisterous manner, as though -in authority, but quietly said to the _patron_, “Three leagues to the -right of the road are about thirty squares of good grass, and farther -on to the left is a small lagoon of water not yet dried up.” His word -was always respected, and the usual answer of the _patron_ was, “Do as -you please, Don Manuel; I have confidence in your judgment.” - -A native author gives the following description of the _baqueano_, -which will correctly apply to Don Manuel:-- - -“If lost upon the plain, he dismounts, and by examining the soil -decides upon his latitude, and tells his companions the distance that -they are from habitations. If this is not enough, he pulls grass from -different localities and chews the roots, decides upon their proximity -to some pond or rivulet, fresh or salt, and departs in search of it, to -decide upon his position. - -“General Rosas can tell by taste the grass of every farm south of -Buenos Ayres. - -“The guide likewise announces the nearness of the enemy when within -ten miles of him, and the direction from which he is coming, by means -of the movements of birds, and by the deer and wild llamas that run -in certain directions. When the enemy is near at hand he observes the -dust, and by its thickness counts the force. He says they number two -thousand, five hundred, two hundred, as the case may be, and the chief -acts under this instruction, which is almost invariably correct. - -“If the condors and vultures flutter in a circle in the air, he can -tell if there are any persons hid, or if there is an encampment -recently abandoned, or if the cause of their movements is merely a dead -animal.” - -Such is the true _baqueano_, and such was Don Manuel. At noon we halted -near a couple of _cerros_, the commencement of the San Luis chain of -mountains, The peons killed an ox, but as there was no grass for the -cattle we did not remain long enough to cook an _asado_. This was the -more aggravating, since we had none of us eaten anything since the -morning of the previous day. - -At two o’clock the caravan again halted--this time to water the animals -from a stream that flowed through a _quebrada_ (valley), along which -were scattered a few ranchos, whose inhabitants lived on pumpkins and -porridge, the latter being valued at one _real_ per quart. A troop -from Mendoza passed us at this encampment, and I took advantage of -the opportunity to get rid of some cut _reals_, that are current in -Rosario, for several bunches of grapes. This troop had also packed in -wicker baskets oranges and figs, a quantity of which I purchased to -divide with my friends, the old Indian and the squaw. I offered a bunch -of grapes to Facundo, but his sour disposition would not allow him to -accept. - -From the river the road wound over a plain abounding in thorn trees and -cacti. Here also grew a low plant bearing red berries, and resembling -peppers in taste. The fruit was eagerly sought for by the peons, who, -throughout the remainder of the journey, seasoned their stews with it. - -At the end of the plain the barren mountains of San Luis rose abruptly, -and seemed to form a barrier to farther progress. We entered a narrow -cleft in the chain, and wound through it for an eighth of a mile, the -voices of the drivers echoing among the rocks with fine effect. But -great was my surprise when we passed from the defile to an elevated -plain, to see stretched out below us the town of San Luis, with its -white plastered dwellings, half hidden, and shaded by tall rows of -poplars, and groves of green willows. It brought to mind the days of -the conquest, so finely described by Prescott, and I pictured the city -below me as another _Cuzco_, inhabited by the children of the Incas. - -But this was not all. Another sight caught my eye, and filled me -with joy. Far in the distance a dim, blue line, pencilled upon the -heavens, told me that I had obtained my first view of the Andes--that -mighty range of mountains which traverses two continents and a dozen -countries, though known by different names. - -What emotions were aroused within me as I gazed at that faint streak -that seemed floating in the air, for below it all was enveloped in -clouds! What visions it awoke of steep precipices, dark gorges, and -rushing streams of water falling in cascades from heights unattainable -by man! I pictured myself in the act of toiling up a narrow path, or -sliding down the sides of a _cerro_ on the snow. I longed to be there, -and wondered whether from the lofty summit of the Cordillera I should -be able yet to gaze upon the distant waters of the great Pacific. - -Above the hazy line two points arose into the clearer heavens, and from -their sublime appearance particularly attracted my attention. The -highest of these peaks, which lies to the north of west of Mendoza, was -the famed Aconcagua, which, rising above the line of eternal snows, -attains an elevation of twenty-three thousand nine hundred feet: higher -by two thousand five hundred feet than that monarch of the Andes, -Chimborazo. The other peak lies to the south of Aconcagua, and runs up -sharply into the heavens. It has been measured by a recent traveller, -who gives it an elevation of twenty-two thousand four hundred and -fifty feet above the level of the sea, or not so high as Aconcagua by -fourteen hundred and fifty feet. - -As I viewed the distant picture with enthusiasm, the caravan that came -lumbering behind was forgotten, until a rough shake, and the words, -“_Esta dormiendo?_” aroused my attention. Looking around I beheld the -grinning features of the _capataz_, who exclaimed, “_La Cordillera de -los Andes, que cosa tan rica!_” (The Cordillera of the Andes, what a -rich thing!) - -As we descended to the town, a party of equestrians, male and female, -passed on the canter, and entered before us. The caravan encamped -alongside the mud wall that defended the property of the inhabitants, -and I remarked that the women who visited the troop did not come as -venders of produce, but as visitors. These females were gayly and -tastefully dressed, but their morals were questionable. As there were -no seats near the fire, our _capataz_ gallantly offered one of the fair -visitors his hat for a substitute; but she, with the others, preferred -their own mode of sitting, and squatted, _à la Turque_, upon the sand, -where they made themselves sociable, and when supper was ready joined -in the meal, eating their meat without knives or forks, but using their -fingers instead. - -San Luis is the largest town upon the road from Rosario to Mendoza. It -is the capital of the province of the same name, and contains about two -thousand inhabitants. This place has varied greatly in its population -within the present century. In 1825 it had two churches, now it has but -one, and this, I afterwards learned, was not well supported--which fact -accounts for its being so immoral a place. - -For many years San Luis had been governed by an old, ignorant fellow, -just such a man as Rosas was accustomed to place over the interior -provinces, in order that they might remain in a degraded state, -and thus be more submissive to his power. A new governor, a man of -education and energy, had taken the place of the old one just removed, -and under his influence it was hoped that the condition of the people -of the province might be improved. Formerly a tax of five dollars was -imposed upon every cart that passed through the province, but it has -been lowered to a more reasonable sum. - -No town on the pampas has suffered from the depredations of Indians -as San Luis. While I was in San Juan, two or three months later, I -became acquainted with several Puntaños, as the people of this place -are called, and from them received much information regarding these -encroachments. - -The Indians usually surprise the town about an hour before daybreak, -and not only seize what property they can remove, but also carry -off into captivity the wives and sisters of the male portion of the -inhabitants. While one party is engaged in sacking the town, another -party drives off all the mares they can find, as mare’s flesh is used -as food among them, and if they take horned cattle, it is only to sell -them to Chilenos, who cross the Andes by the most southern pass--the -Planchon. Great numbers of women and children have been carried off -during these frays. - -There was living in San Luis, at the time our troop passed through the -place, an old woman who was stolen when a child from her friends. She -lived many years with her captors, serving them as a menial, or slave. -Twice she attempted to escape, but each time was retaken, and for both -attempts her feet were skinned by the brutal savages. She made a third -attempt, however, which was successful. Her captors were away, hunting -guanacos, a species of llama. Secreting about her person a quantity of -dried mare’s flesh, she set out for a little lake, telling the squaws -that she was going to draw water. As soon as the lake was reached she -struck out boldly into the pampas, shaping her course in the direction -of San Luis. - -The Indians, fortunately, did not overtake or find her, and after many -days of wandering, she fell in with some gauchos, who took her to San -Luis, and restored her to her friends. - -Another occurrence that was related to me will not be without interest -to the reader. - -During the California excitement a great number of foreigners -accompanied caravans from Buenos Ayres to Mendoza, _en route_ for the -land of gold. Two or three of these caravans were troubled by the -Indians while on the passage to San Luis. - -At last one troop of twenty carts, which was accompanied by a -large number of foreigners, mostly French and English, started -from Buenos Ayres, and as the men were armed with double-barrelled -guns and six-shooters, they were continually on the _qui vive_ for -an opportunity to test their weapons against the long spears and -boliadores of the Indians. - -Scouts were always on the watch, but not an Indian was seen. At length, -just before they reached the mountains of San Luis, they were met by -flying horsemen and terrified women from the town, who informed them -that the savages were among the mines of La Carolina, some sixteen or -eighteen leagues to the north, and were plundering without mercy. As -the party were debating as to their proper action, the news was brought -that the Indians, harassed by a few troops sent by the governor, were -on the retreat. The caravan was at once drawn into a defile of the -mountains, and the white men prepared for action. - -Soon the Indians were descried coming at a rapid rate, in one body. -Behind each savage were one or more female prisoners lashed to the -rider. “It was an awful sight,” said the narrator of the story to me, -“when we beheld the strangers point their long guns at the approaching -party, among which were our friends, bound to their relentless captors.” - -Unaware of the proximity of strangers, on came the galloping party. -Suddenly they fell back in confusion, but too late for retreat, for the -discharge of nearly two hundred guns scattered death among them. In an -instant the horses were freed from their savage riders, who lay upon -the plain in the last agonies. - -Great credit was given to the foreigners who had done such service to -the province; and, followed by hundreds of the natives, they marched -the carts into the plaza of San Luis, and there remained several -days, feasting daily upon eight oxen that were presented them by the -governor. My informant said that such was the skill of the strangers in -the use of fire-arms, that not a bird flew over the plaza but it was -shot while flying, much to the astonishment of the townsfolk, who will -never forget the visit of the strangers. - -At San Luis de la Punta the pampas end. On the next morning, the 27th -of April, when we left the town, our course lay over a _travesia_ -(desert), which was wooded, for the first few leagues, with the black -algarroba (_mata-gusano_), and many other species of low thorn trees -and bushes. The road was filled with deep ruts, and as the heavy wagons -passed along they raised clouds of dust, that made travelling an almost -insupportable task. At night the cattle had to be driven some miles -from the road to a place where a little pasture was found. We did -not eat meat during the day, but I found that many of the cacti bore -a fruit at the top, which, though nearly tasteless, was better than -nothing. Near where we encamped, three peons were loosening a patch of -land with the rough plough of the country. They were preparing to dig a -receptacle for the water that falls during the summer time, and just, -behind two or three ranchos were two of these old pools, out of which -our oxen and men drank, the _capataz_ paying six and one fourth cents -per head for each animal. The water could not have been a foot in -depth, and what kept it from soaking into the ground I could not tell, -as the soil was porous rather than clayey. - -We resumed our march on the following morning without any breakfast, -and kept on until noon, when the cattle were driven to a distant -pasture, and the peons cooked an _asado_. We again watered the oxen at -another dirty pool, paying the same price per head. I was thirsty, but -before I could get at the water the cattle were crowded in the pool, -and I returned to the cart without any. Don Facundo furnished me with -a bottle to fill. I gave it to a dirty urchin, who seized a stick, and -wading into the muddy pool, drove the oxen right and left until he had -space enough left to fill the demijohn. This he succeeded in doing, -but the contents were such a mixture that, to avoid swallowing dirt, -sticks, &c., I was obliged to strain it through my teeth. - -I noticed in this part of the country a species of cactus that had -previously escaped my observation. It grows about eighteen inches -high, spreads out in large, broad leaves, and is fed upon by cochineal -insects, which the natives gather, and sell at a low price. It bears -a fruit which resembles, in form and color, the pine-apple, and is -about twice the size of a hen’s egg. Inside the skin is a white pulpy -substance, filled with small black seeds, and pleasant to the taste. - -The little pepperish berry became more abundant, and, taking advantage -of the opportunity, the peons put large quantities in their stews, -which rendered it so fiery to the taste that I was frequently obliged -to go supperless. - -The _travesia_ which we were now upon was covered, in greater or less -quantity, with a peculiar saline mineral which was new to me. I saved -a small quantity of it, and when I returned to the United States, -presented it to a scientific, association, with the following account -of the locality in which it is found:-- - -“This peculiar mineral is found mixed with the soil, in greater or less -abundance, from San Luis de la Punta (a town on the western side of the -pampas of the Argentine Republic, where the grass plains properly end, -and the _travesia_, or desert, commences) to the foot of the Andes. - -“San Luis lies in latitude 33° 16′ south, longitude 66° 27′ west, -and is the capital of the province of the same name. From this town -westward the soil is almost worthless, until the River Mendoza is -reached, where irrigation commences. - -“The soil is very light and dry, and not in the least compact. This is -probably caused by the dryness of the atmosphere and absence of water; -for when I crossed that part of the country, no water was found save -that which had been caught and retained in holes in the ground by the -natives. Stones are rarely met with, and where they are found I did not -observe the salt. - -“There are several spots on the _travesia_ between San Luis and Mendoza -furnishing a poor quality of grass, which is fed upon by the cattle -which are driven across the continent to the coast. - -“With the exception of these spots the country between the above named -towns, and extending many leagues to the north and south, is a desert -waste, covered with a low growth of thorn bushes and a few species of -gnarled trees, some of which bear pods. - -“The mineral penetrates the earth from a few inches to a couple of feet -in depth. It is particularly abundant at certain places east of the -town of San Juan, where the ground is covered with a thin incrustation. -It is here that the reflection of the sun’s rays is exceedingly -painful to the eyes, and the inhabitants are constantly affected with -inflammation of those organs. - -“The soil for cultivation must first be prepared, and the mineral -removed. The native method of doing this is very simple. The water -is conducted from the Rivers Mendoza and San Juan (which take their -rise in the Cordillera) through an _acquia_, or canal, around squares -of level land, at irregular intervals of time, and, to use their own -expression, they wash off the _salitre_ (saltpetre). Then a plough, -constructed of two pieces of wood, is brought into service, and it -turns up from six to eight inches of the soil, which goes through the -same washing process as the first. - -“After two or three repetitions of this operation, a shallow soil -is obtained, partially free from _salitre_, in which wheat, clover, -pumpkins, melons, &c., are raised. The remaining _salitre_, according -to the belief of the natives, is exhausted by successive crops, and -after several years of tillage the soil is suitable for the vine. -Oranges, peaches, quinces, olives, figs, &c., flourish. Within a few -years large tracts of land have been made exceedingly fertile by the -process above described, and could the New England plough be introduced -there, the process would be far more effective.” - -The following analysis of the salt was made by Dr. A. A. Hayes, of -Boston, a gentleman well known in scientific circles for the care and -accuracy with which he conducts all analyses:-- - -“The specimen was a white, crystalline solid, formed by the union -of two layers of salt, as often results from the evaporation of a -saline solution, when the pellicle formed on the surface falls to the -bottom. Along the line of junction crystal facets are seen, but the -forms are indistinct. These crystals readily scratch calc spar, and -dissolve without residue in water, affording a solution, which, by -evaporation at 150° Fahr., leaves the salt with some of the original -physical characters. It readily parts with a portion of water by heat, -and when the temperature is raised to redness, it fuses quietly into -a transparent, colorless, anhydrous fluid. On cooling, an opaque, -white, crystalline solid remains. In this climate the specimen attracts -moisture, and therefore has not a fixed amount of water constituent. - -“It consists of water, sulphuric acid, soda, magnesia, chlorine. Mixed -with it are traces of crenate of iron and lime, with sandy grains of -earth. - -“One sample afforded-- - - Water, 16.420 - Sulphuric acid, 49.658 - Soda, 23.758 - Magnesia, 9.904 - Chlorine, .260 - ------- - 100.000 - -“Three fragments from different masses were taken, and the following -substances found:-- - - Water, 16.42 18.84 19.60 - Sulphate of soda, 48.00 45.82 45.74 - ” ” magnesia, 34.20 33.19 33.31 - Chloride sodium, 1.21 1.79 1.16 - Crenates lime and iron} - with silicic acid, } 0.17 0.30 0.13 - Sand, 0.06 0.06 - ------ ------ ------ - 100.00 100.00 100.00 - - -“The varying amounts of water given are illustrative of the absorptive -power of the salts in the atmosphere of this place. Dried at 90° Fahr., -the amount of water was 15.20 in 100 parts, which exceeds by four -parts the proportion necessary to form proto-hydrates of the two salts -present. - -“Analysis does not show the two sulphates to be in definite proportions -in the masses, but the crystals may be a double salt, composed of -one equivalent of sulphate of soda and one equivalent of sulphate -of magnesia, each retaining an equivalent of water. In the masses, -the closest approximation is 42 parts of sulphate of magnesia found, -instead of 46 parts required.” - -The communication presented embraces interesting facts. These saline -deserts cover extended areas in different parts of South America, -and, so far as the author has been able to learn, the saline matter -differs in kind at the different points. The tendency of saline matter -contained in any soil is to rise through the aid of moisture to the -surface, where, the water escaping, the salt is deposited. This effect, -contrary to the gravitating influence, is the most common cause of -deserts, and may be exerted everywhere when the evaporation of water -from a given surface becomes much greater than that surface receives -in the form of rain and dew. The cultivation of saline deserts, by -washing down the saline matter, exhibits the opposite action of water -in restoring fertility, and it is by no means essential that the water -should contain organic, matter to insure the full effect, as the soil -of deserts generally contains all the organic matter of many years’ -accumulation. - -An interesting inquiry naturally presents itself to the traveller while -crossing this peculiar desert. By what means was the salt deposited? -Two theories have been advanced by gentlemen who have visited the -_travesia_, both to account for its presence. - -Mr. Bland, the North American Commissioner, who visited the Argentine -Republic in 1818, thinks that these plains “may have been gently lifted -just above the level of the ocean, and left with a surface so unbroken -and flat as not yet to have been sufficiently purified of its salt and -acid matter, either by filtration or washing.” - -Sir W. Parish’s idea of the origin of the salt is different. He -says, “But is it not more likely to have been washed down from the -secondary strata, which form the base of the Andes, in which we know -that enormous beds of salt abound, particularly in those parts of -the Cordillera where the greater number of the rivers rise which run -through the pampas, and which are almost all more or less impregnated -with it?” - -While crossing the pampas I occasionally noticed that the water of some -of the streams was brackish, but as we approached the Andes the water -of the rivers was pure, and free from salt. The San Juan and Mendoza -Rivers, both of which may be called great torrents, bring down alluvial -mud in their currents; but I never was able to detect any saline -properties either in the mud or water. The natives, however, have -assured me that there are many salt mines in the Andes. - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - ON THE TRAVESIA. - - -On the 28th of April our caravan crossed the River Desaguadero, and -upon the western bank the peons killed an ox, and we ate for the first -time since the morning of the previous day. At noon we reached the -limits of artificial irrigation, which is carried on extensively in the -neighborhood of Mendoza. Along the road ran a shallow ditch, four feet -wide, and containing about two inches of water, which, when the canal -is full, fertilizes the soil in the vicinity. - -Beyond the Desaguadero, forty leagues from Mendoza, lay the hamlet of -La Paz, upon the outskirts of which we encamped for the night. Very -different was this hamlet from the others we had passed, which looked -old and squalid, the houses seeming ready to crumble in pieces, and -little vegetation, save in San Luis, was to be seen. Here everything -looked neat, and a degree of comfort prevailed that was refreshing -to the eye of the traveller who had just crossed a dreary country. -This comfortable and fresh appearance was the result of irrigation, -for very little rain falls on this great travesia, which covers many -thousand miles of territory in the provinces of San Luis, Mendoza, and -San Juan; and wherever the water of rivers can be turned from their -natural course to fertilize the broad waste lands, there little spots -of verdure appear, and the labor of the farmer is crowned with success. - -The whole township of La Paz was divided into square pastures, around -which ran a wide canal. Along the borders of these grew tall poplars, -that served to fence in and protect the herds of cattle that had been -brought from San Luis to fatten on _alfalfa_, a species of clover. Our -_patron_ was so parsimonious that he refused to purchase good pasturage -for the cattle, which were growing weaker each day on miserable fare, -but ordered the _capataz_ to drive them to a piece of waste land, upon -which grew a scanty supply of dry grass. - -The next day we encamped a few leagues beyond the village, where -I bought, and shared with the peons, a couple of pumpkins, some -coarse bread, and a quantity of dried figs, that had been brought -from Mendoza. Our road the next day led through woods of thorns and -algarrobas, and occasionally over an open plain. - -Just before dark we had a fine view of the distant Andes, which were -now distinctly visible. The most lofty peaks were covered with snow, -although in many places dark lines showed where the rocks remained yet -uncovered. - -The wind blew direct from the west, and coming from the snowy -mountains, was very chilly. All night I turned and rolled upon my hide -in great discomfort from the cold that benumbed my limbs. On the next -day, May 1st, the peons stopped to kill an ox close to Las Casitis, a -village larger and better than the last one we passed three days before. - -While the troop rested, a broad-faced, good-looking fellow beckoned -from over a fence of thorns and cornstalks for me to come and dine -with him. I accepted his kind invitation, and he showed me his hut and -grounds; the former was built of cornstalks, and was well thatched. - -Upon the rafters, that projected, and formed a platform outside the -hut, were piles of dried pumpkins, melons, &c. - -He informed me that he had commenced improving the land one year -before, and by hard labor, he, together with his wife and children, had -a home, and were more plentifully supplied with the comforts of life -than any other rancho on the road between Rosario and Mendoza. - -The canal that ran past his hut watered beds of onions, beans, garlic, -and many other vegetables not often found on the road. - -His wife, a dark-complexioned woman, with “_para servir à vd_,” -welcomed me to their cabin, and spread upon a trunk of an algarroba -a small piece of white cloth, and upon this placed a dish containing -a stew of beans, onions, corn, and meat, well-seasoned with garlic. -They would not receive anything for their kindness, but when I left -presented me with a fine pumpkin, which I in turn gave to the peons. - -From this place we travelled very slowly until four o’clock, when we -halted to feed the oxen. The peons, though they had eaten heartily -three hours before, roasted large slices of meat, and ate a quantity -during the next half hour that would have astonished the followers of -Graham. These people can go without eating for an astonishing length of -time; but when an opportunity offers for gormandizing, they will rival -Claudius Albinus himself. I dare not mention how many steaks, each -averaging two pounds, Facundo could devour in a day; nor should I wish -to state that he thought nothing of eating three pumpkins at a single -meal. - -At dusk the creaking of wheels and loud cries of men announced that -a troop from Mendoza was approaching, and a young man came galloping -in advance, and greeted our _patron_ as an old acquaintance. The oxen -of the troop, fresh from Mendoza, contrasted strangely with our lean -animals, some of which could scarcely walk. - -The next morning we were on the road very early, for it now became -evident that unless our journey was soon terminated our cattle would -give out; and the carts thus situated would be in an unlucky situation. - -The next town was Santa Rosa, once the headquarters of the Jesuits, who -held religious sway over all the pampa territories when the country was -under the control of Spain. - -The place was nothing more than a collection of mud huts and corn -ranches. The inhabitants, however, supported a small store. - -The only signs of life in the hamlet were from a party of women -weaving, and two or three half-Indian girls chasing a flock of goats -and sheep. The country around the place was covered with low bushes, -and, judging by appearances, I concluded that the place had seen its -best days. Many poor families were supported by a flock of twenty or -thirty goats and sheep, the latter providing sufficient wool, from -which their garments were made; and as the goats breed twice a year, -they had plenty of animal food to satisfy their wants. Beyond this -place our caravan entered a straight, broad road, shaded with tall -poplars, which were planted in regular rows on each side of the street, -and afforded a pleasant shade for the traveller. - -Following the road for two or three miles, we encamped for the night -in Alto Verde, where were the best houses seen by us since leaving -Rosario. The frames were of poplar, and were well put together, the -roof projecting sufficiently to form a veranda. All articles of food -were cheaper here than at any of the towns passed by our troop. Three -or four large watermelons were given for a medio (6¹⁄₄ cents), and two -loaves of bread for the same amount of money. - -During the day following we passed scattered houses, and large pastures -of _alfalfa_, separated from each other by fences of growing poplars. -Our _patron_, now felt compelled to purchase fodder for the oxen, and -he obtained the privilege of pasturing them for the night, and until -the day following, for three dollars; which, considering the number of -animals (over one hundred), was a very small sum. - -As we encamped in the highway, we were disturbed in our slumbers all -the night by the numerous troops of mules and racing gauchos who were -continually passing and repassing, while flocks of wild fowl flew over -our carts, shaping their course to the south. The following morning -we reached Villa Nueva. The roads were very sandy, which gave great -trouble to the oxen. Before taking our last meal we halted for the -night. - -On the next morning we started very early, following a lonely road, -without seeing a rancho. About noon we crossed the River Mendoza, -which, at the place of crossing, was narrow, with a current setting to -the northward. I had some difficulty in effecting a passage without -getting wet. - -While the carts were forming a double line, and commencing other -preparations for halting, I disrobed, and, under cover of some stunted -bushes, bathed in the cold stream. - -This was the third bath that I had enjoyed since leaving Rosario. The -peons laughed derisively at a gringo who could not travel eight hundred -miles without washing himself. These disgusting fellows, with one or -two exceptions, had not applied water to their skin for more than forty -days, and did not intend to cleanse themselves until the troop was -close upon Mendoza. - -From a few mud houses beyond a rising ground, not far from the river, -came several men and women, bringing peaches and melons in their -ponchos, together with baskets of native manufacture, filled with -two kinds of grapes, one variety of which was the white Muscatel. At -different points near this river my attention had been attracted by a -disease very prevalent among the people, which exhibited itself in the -form of a large swelling upon the throat, and was called by the natives -the _coté_ (goitre). - -One poor fellow, who had a very large _coté_, informed me that it was -caused by drinking the water of the stream, and that large swellings -had come out upon his thighs, from laboring several weeks in the water. - -A young cow that had been purchased on the road was the only tender -meat that we had eaten since leaving Rosario. The peons gorged -themselves until they could eat no more, and ate, perhaps, more than -they would have done had not the _patron_ been absent; he had gone to -Mendoza in order to advertise in the only paper in the province that -his troop would make its _entrée_ into the Plaza Nueva on the following -day. - -Owing to our proximity to the great town, several of the Santia -gueños changed their minds about ablutions, and busied themselves in -making preparations for the _entrée_. I watched their movements with -considerable interest, for in making their toilet the comb of Don -Manuel passed around the group, and received generous patronage, the -little dog that belonged to my friend and the woman coming in for their -share of its use. - -The ball having once been set in motion, the excitement to appear -neat became so great that some of the peons actually shook the dust -out of their _chiropas_, and put on clean drawers, that had been long -kept for some great occasion. While the men beat their ponchos upon -the wagon-wheels, the woman entered a cart to make her toilet; and -so changed was her appearance an hour after, when she appeared clad -in a new calico dress, with her hair neatly plaited in two braids, -after the fashion, formerly, of young girls in our own country, that I -involuntarily raised my sombrero, which attention she very pleasantly -acknowledged. But, as is usually the case with mothers, she had -expended the principal part of her labor and finery upon her little -girl, whose appearance had been greatly improved. - - [Illustration: THE CARAVAN AT REST.--Page 182.] - -An hour before she had run along the banks of the river barefooted, and -with hair streaming in the wind; but now, with hair smoothly combed, -and little body decked out in a gay tunic, her black eyes sparkling -with fun, she seemed to have been transformed from a wild Indian girl -into an interesting little lady. - -After again eating, the troop moved on until sunset, passing several -dilapidated houses, and two or three dirty _pulperias_ (stores). Our -camping-ground proved to be a bad selection, as it was on a low plain, -part morass, and covered with tall weeds. The peons tried to compel -me to fill the jars with water at a pond, the direction of which they -pointed out to me in the dark; but I informed them, through a little -fellow that spoke Spanish, that, as I was aware of our proximity -to Mendoza, all further orders from them would be disregarded. -Furthermore, I stated that there were people in the town which we -were soon to enter who could converse equally well in English and in -Spanish, and if they, the peons, attempted any more insulting acts, the -matter would be exposed. This answer they evidently did not relish, for -they became very angry, and conversed among themselves in their own -language, evidently making threats of some kind against me. - -Before retiring, I conversed with the old Indian, who was my friend, -and he promised to receive my little property, snugly packed in a -canvas bag, into his cart. - -The night passed without any incident, and when daylight came we were -already on the march. As the troop was not to enter the town until -the following morning, I partook of an _asado_ for the last time, -and, discarding my pampa costume, and dressing after the fashion of -civilized men, I set out in advance of the company for Mendoza, which -was twelve miles distant. The whole plain, over which our road lay, was -covered with a curious bush, growing in clumps from three to six feet -in height, and bearing a yellow pod, resembling in shape a screw. The -houses that were scattered along the road were built in the old Spanish -style. When within three or four miles of the town, a continuous line -of buildings commenced, which was broken only by green pastures of -_alfalfa_, surrounded by mud walls and extensive vineyards, the vines -of which bent to the ground from the weight of the fruit they bore. - -Upon the walls of the houses, suspended from canes, hung, drying in the -sun, bunches of the fruit just mentioned; and, seeing a great number -of casks and barrels in almost every yard, I judged that each farmer -manufactured his own wine. - -Oranges, lemons, limes, peaches, and olives were everywhere abundant, -while occasionally the eye rested with pleasure upon a pomegranate, or -palm-tree. - -Within the yards, surrounded by high enclosures, were piles of melons -and pumpkins; and ranges of jars, filled with olives just stripped from -the trees, stood beneath the verandas of the houses. - -The people seemed very hospitable. Twice the proprietors of different -_quintas_ came out, and persuaded me to enter their residences and -partake of food, saying that everything they possessed was at my -disposal, and that the foreigners received their great respect. - -“How knew you that I was a foreigner?” I asked. - -“By your countenance and your walk,” was the reply. - -An old man detained me a long time to inquire the prices of North -American goods. - -“What is the value of this article in your country?” he asked, holding -up to my view a cheap earthen mug. - -“About a medio,” I replied. - -“What rogues!” he exclaimed. “In Mendoza they charged me three times -that sum. Tell me, friend, why did you neglect to bring some with you? -You would have been a rich man soon.” - -The day was the Sabbath, which is regarded as a holiday in this -country. The _pulperias_ by the roadside were thronged by the gauchos, -some gambling, and others dancing to the sound of the guitar, while -a few lay drunk upon the ground. About two o’clock, after leaping -several streams of water that ran along the streets, I entered Mendoza, -and, after many unsuccessful inquiries, found myself in the _calle de -comercio_, where I luckily met with a Frenchman who spoke a little -English, and to him made known my wishes regarding my proposed journey -across the Andes to Chili. - -The Frenchman informed me that an English physician, Dr. D., who had -resided several years in Mendoza, and had ingratiated himself into the -favor of the government, was just the person to apply to, as he could -give me any information relative to the Chili road. At the moment the -doctor himself came up, mounted upon a fine horse, and returning from a -visit to the country. - -I handed him the letters given me by Mr. Graham, and inquired if -either of the two persons to whom they were directed were in Mendoza; -he returned them to me, rather brusquely saying that _he_ was not an -_American_ physician; and as for Mr. Allen Campbell, he had left -two months ago for Santa Fé. In as delicate a manner as possible, I -informed Dr. D. of my object in visiting his adopted country; that I -was a stranger, and unacquainted with the language, and hinted that if -some person conversant with the dialect would make inquiries regarding -troops of mules that might be leaving for Chili, he would be doing me a -favor that I could not too highly appreciate. To this the doctor drew -himself up stiffly, and replied, impatiently,-- - -“If you wish to cross to Chili, the only method of procuring necessary -information is to inquire of the native merchants, who often send -troops across the Cordillera. According to the last accounts the -mountains were passable, though the Chili mail has not yet arrived.” - -I answered, “Doctor, I am unacquainted with the language, save the -little I have acquired upon the road; and if several days are lost by -me in fruitless inquiry, the mountains will be closed, and I shall be -obliged to remain here for the next six months.” - -“Very well,” he answered, touching his horse at the same time with his -silver spurs. “It is only among the merchants that you will receive the -information.” And he was soon out of sight. - -The Frenchman, who had been a listener to the conversation, exclaimed, -energetically, “Vat a tam fool! He might speak one word, and find -plentee mules going to Chili: he much puffed up with practeese. Come to -my home, and I will find you a troop of mules to-morrow. I loves the -Americans; they is tam goot fellows!” - -On our way to his lodgings, my new acquaintance suddenly remembered -that there was a party of North Americans in town, and at my request he -led me to their house. They were professional gentlemen, my guide said, -but of what particular branch of science he could not tell. Never was -I more surprised than when the Frenchman introduced me to four young -men, whose flag, as it waved above their house, announced them as the -Circo Olimpico (Olympic Circus), from North America. The director of -the company, Mr. Daniel H., of Utica, New York, had left the States for -Mexico thirteen years before, and was with the American army through -the war between the two republics. - -After peace had been established, he freighted a small vessel, and, -landing upon the northern coast of South America, had since travelled -over nearly all the countries of the continent. - -Of the original number that left with him, he was the only survivor. As -soon as one performer had died, or retired from the profession, some -strolling _provistero_ was always found to fill the vacancy. - -While the company travelled in the upper countries of Bolivia, Peru, -New Granada, and Ecuador, success followed them; for silver is more -plenty among the middle and poorer classes of those republics that -abound in rich mines than in the Argentine Republic. Here their good -fortune deserted them. They had crossed over the vast pampa country, -and, by giving here and there a _granfuncion_, had taken money enough -to enable them to reach Mendoza. Mr. H. informed me that he should -follow along the sierras of the Andes, and cross the great travesia -that covers several of the upper provinces, until he reached Potosi, -and from Bolivia the company would cross the Cordillera to Peru, where -better luck would surely meet them. - -Being the latest arrival from North America, I had to answer many -questions, as they had not heard from that country since leaving the -Paraná, twelve months before. At dusk a negro band played an air that -was very popular in the United States nine years before. With all the -facilities of communication that exist between the two countries, the -song and accompanying music had just reached Mendoza, a town supposed -by its inhabitants to be first in the scale of civilization and -refinement. - -The following morning I visited the Plaza Nueva, where the carts of -our caravan were discharging their cargoes, and received from the old -Indian my bag. - -We parted pleasantly, and I only regretted that my present to him could -not have been as great, proportionately, as my regard for him. The -_patron_ and _capataz_ commended me to the care of my Maker, and wished -that many years might be added to my life, to which civil speech I made -an appropriate reply. As for the peons, they said nothing, nor even -comforted me with a single glance or nod of good feeling. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - MENDOZA. - - -Two or three days were passed in inquiring for a troop of mules -bound for Chili, but no information could be obtained of any, and I -afterwards learned that the last troop of the season had left Mendoza -on the day after my arrival, and had barely succeeded in reaching Chili -with their lives. - -For twenty-one days the Andes were enveloped in clouds, the dark and -portentous appearance of which was terrible to behold. I passed hours -of each day in watching the fierce _temporales_, as the natives called -them, that came rolling along the summit of the sierras from the -regions of Cape Horn, covering, in their mad career, whole ranges of -mountains in a mantle of snow. To have attempted a passage at that time -would have been certain death; so with all the philosophy that could be -drawn from irremediable disappointment, I became resigned to my fate to -remain in the interior of the country until the genial sun of another -spring should melt the snow-drifts that blocked up the passes of the -Andes. - -The old Spanish town of Mendoza is situated in latitude 32° 51′ -south, longitude 67° 57′ west, at the foot of the eastern declivity -of the Andes. It was laid out in _cuadras_, or squares, the sides -of which were one hundred and fifty yards long. It contained, at the -time of my visit, nearly ten thousand inhabitants. Of the two plazas -the Independence was the most celebrated, because of the fountain -it contained. This fountain, however, was dry when I was there, the -aqueduct having become choked with leaves and stones; it had been -permitted to remain in this useless state for some time, and I was of -the opinion that it would still continue dry, as no attempt was made to -clear it out, and no plan was discussed by which it might in the future -be again in operation. - -The _Alameda_, a much-talked-of public walk on the side of the town -nearest the mountains, was resorted to by all classes. An artificial -canal flowed beside the principal walk, watering a row of fine poplars, -beneath which were a few stone seats, where I often sat and watched the -different classes of the Mendozinos promenading after the _siesta_. - -In a little mud hut, kept by a Chilino, I was surprised to find a -luxury not often met with in southern countries. Ice was brought from -the mountains on mules, and the inhabitants were enabled to enjoy their -creams at a trifling expense. It was in the _Alameda_ that I sometimes -had a glimpse of the governor of the province of Mendoza--Don Pedro -Pascual Segura. He was a man small in stature, and this characteristic -seemed to be general in the different traits of his character, for he -was of little energy, and had, consequently, little of the rascality -of his predecessors. He was literally small in everything, as the -following incident will show. - -The Mendoza band belonged to the government, and Don Pedro had disposed -of their services by contract, for a certain sum of money, to the -theatrical company of Señor Rodenas, who had established himself in -the town a short time before my arrival. The North American Circus -Company came into the place soon after, and the director presented the -governor his compliments and a season ticket to the performances. As -the circus company wished to perform on the same evening as the company -of Señor Rodenas, and by so doing could not obtain the services of the -band, the governor, without further ceremony, broke the contract with -the theatre, and ordered half the musicians to the house of the North -Americans. This unjust act greatly injured the native performers, who -were poor, and had but just arrived from a distant part of the country. - -The houses of Mendoza were one story high, and, unlike those of -Buenos Ayres, were built of _adobes_, which were covered with mud and -whitewashed. These, like the dwellings of that city, had a dreary, -prison-like appearance. The _patio_, or yard, was in the centre of -the building, and was accessible by a large, heavy door, called the -_puerto-calle_. A door from each room opened into the yard, where, -in the summer months, the household, including servants, usually -slept, for the climate near the mountains has not the heavy dews of -the pampas. The roofs were generally of mud, plastered upon canes, -bound together by strips of hide, which rested upon a rough frame of -willow, poplar, and a hard kind of wood resembling the _algarroba_. The -_adobes_ were made near the spot where the building was to be erected -when sufficient material could be procured. Mud, trodden fine by horses -and mixed with straw, was placed in moulds about twenty by eight -inches, and four or five deep, and, after being removed, the adobe was -allowed to dry in the sun’s heat for two or three weeks. Outside the -town a rough, square brick was made, which served to floor the houses -of the rich, and was covered by a carpet of European manufacture. - -The town, at the time of my visit, was liberally supplied with -churches, and had a convent. The priests bore a much better character -than those of the northern countries of the continent, as in most -places where Catholicism exists they have a strong influence over -the lower classes, and fill the narrow streets of the town with -processions, much to the annoyance of every one who is obliged to -kneel uncovered as they pass along. One foreigner told me that when -he entered the place for the first time, he halted his horse in the -plaza, through which a crowd of people were hurrying with lighted -candles and crucifixes. The priest observing that he did not recognize, -by humiliating himself, the respect due them, sent a vigilante, who -threatened to run him through with the bayonet if he did not dismount -from his horse and kneel upon the ground. There being no protecting -power nearer than Buenos Ayres, or Santiago in Chili, a foreigner must -go through these debasing forms, do homage to man, or feel the point of -the bayonet or sword, “for there is no protection for _gringos_ in the -provinces north and west of Buenos Ayres.” - -This I had told me more than once by officers of the government of -this republic that pretends to copy the principles that have been -expounded by Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and Lafayette. I always kept -a bright lookout when abroad, and the instant the shaven heads of the -good fathers appeared I turned the first corner, and stopped not until -two squares were between us. - -At a certain season of the year a mock Christ was crucified by the -priests. The deluded people, believing it to be the true Savior, wept -as they beat their breasts, and cried out with compassion. At these and -other services of the church, as the mass and vesper prayer, the men -formed a very small portion of the congregation, but the women were -constant attendants, and were continually at the confessional. - -One young lady with whom I was acquainted made it a rule to confess -three times a week. This she continued to do for the space of one -year, when good Father Maximo became so weary of her appearance or of -her sins, that he told her to come once in seven days, and he would -pardon the whole at once. Every morning the early riser met with little -parties of females returning from early mass, chatting pleasantly as -they proceeded to their homes. Each female who could afford it had a -servant, who followed behind with an _alfombra_ (mat), upon which the -lady sat while in church. The children always went on before, that they -might be under the eye of the matron who watched them, particularly if -they were young ladies, with a degree of vigilance equal to that of the -dueñazas of old Spain. - -While speaking of churches and church-goers I will not omit mentioning -a few facts relative to one Padre A. and his family, whose fame is -wide-spread in the other provinces of the republic. This A. was a -priest in the church of San Domingo, and, breaking his vow, acquainted -Rosas with the thoughts and actions of those who had unbosomed -themselves to him. - -His villanous character began to show itself, and throwing aside the -padre’s cloak, he took the sword, and became one of the bloodiest -generals that Mendoza had ever supported. His deeds of cruelty made him -known throughout the country. His family, which had, during his career, -enjoyed a notoriety, sank into obscurity after his death. - -Several years since, a daughter of the padre, who had distinguished -herself for her licentious conduct, performed a journey, in company -with her sister and another young lady,--all wild girls,--that proved -no less disastrous than it was foolish in design. - -The three girls, attired in gaucho costume, set out on horseback, and -_not_ with side-saddles, to cross the Cordillera of the Andes. The trip -was successful. They entered Chili without meeting any obstacle to mar -their happiness, and after having passed a few weeks with friends, -started to return to the Argentine Republic. The guides warned them -of coming _temporales_, but they had tarried from home too long to -protract their stay; perhaps to be obliged to remain in Chili until the -winter’s snows were gone. They entered the mountains, and somewhere -near the Cumbre pass, a storm broke upon them, and only two of the -females escaped with their lives. - -Each church in Mendoza had several bells, which were far from -melodious, having a tinkling sound, and the manner in which they -were rung reminded me of our national air. But the people were well -satisfied with these discordant sounds, and one of the priests, who -had returned from a visit to England, on being asked how he liked that -country, replied,-- - -“England is a fine country, superior to ours in everything save -one--the English do not know how to chime their bells.” - -A theatre of two stories in height had been built under the supervision -and at the expense of a certain “scientific gentleman,” and though the -building was but a whitewashed structure, it raised the gentleman to -enviable fame. He was pointed out to me as a profound man, a geologist -and astronomer, and furthermore the government would not raise a wall -or dig an _acquia_ without first consulting Don Carlos’s opinion. -Though a native of the country, he assumed to be an Italian, but -did not succeed in convincing the people to that effect when I left -Mendoza. I was told that the don had acquired his principal knowledge -of engineering, &c., while assisting Lieutenant Archibald Macrae, of -the United States Naval Astronomical Expedition, two or three years -before, in taking the altitudes of certain places in the Andes. Don -Carlos occasionally turned aside from his researches in science, and -amused himself, or became the amuser of the more talented portion of -the Mendozinos. Once he collected an eager crowd of people by mounting -the roof of a house, and pretending, by means of the needle of the -compass, to determine the course and distance of a comet, which, -with fiery tail, looked so ominously as to cause many of the gaucho -population to believe that the town was about to be destroyed. - -I was convinced that the Mendozinos were the most peaceable and -hospitable people of the republic, and showed more respect to -foreigners than was customary where the old dogmas and customs of the -Spanish prevailed. I could not perceive any difference between the -higher classes of this town and those of Buenos Ayres in the matter of -complexion. - -They had as light skins as any Spaniard that I had met in the last -named city, and generally retained the purity of blood. The lower -classes differed, however. They were of every type that exists in the -republic west of Paraná and south of latitude 28°, being composed of -peons of the different provinces, while the blood of the Indian and -negro courses through the veins of many. They were very immoral and -exceedingly ignorant, but were kind-hearted and courteous to strangers. -Much time was wasted in dancing and other frivolous amusements. The -females of all grades embroidered with skill, and showed great taste in -the selection of their patterns. The bonnet was not worn, but a shawl, -covering the head and falling gracefully about the form, supplied its -place, the temperature being so mild and uniform that no warmer head -covering was needed. - -I noticed that the ladies painted their cheeks in an extravagant -manner; a custom that we should not suppose would have gained entrance -to such an isolated place. In San Juan, one hundred and fifty miles -to the north, I saw nothing of this, and was told that it was of rare -occurrence. - -Mendoza was a very healthy place at the time I was there. I learned -that many persons, troubled with complaints that usually end in -consumption, after residing there a few years were restored to health. - -But there was one form of disease which was said by the physicians to -be incurable, and which in our own country would lead to a desertion of -the site. - -This was the goitre of the medical fraternity, and, as I have before -mentioned, is known among the people as the _coté_. The disease -appeared in the form of a large swelling on the throat, which was -caused by the mineral qualities of the River Mendoza.[3] The canals -that supplied the citizens of the town ran through nearly every street, -and each family procured their water from them. - -The richer portion of the inhabitants had filters, or drip-stones, -through which the water was allowed to pass, and become free from all -vegetable matter. Now the question presented itself to me, Did the -water, in passing through the fine drip-stone, rid itself of any of -its mineral properties? and I was led to the opinion that it did, from -noticing the fact that the richer classes, having their water thus -filtrated, were rarely troubled with the goitre, while the poor people, -who drank from the canal itself, presented the disease in all its forms -upon them. In fact, the goitre seemed to be a part of their person, -for every sixth or seventh female, and now and then a man, that I met -during a morning walk, exhibited the disagreeable symptoms. - -At San Vicente, a small village, four miles from the town, the goitre -could be examined in all its forms; “for,” said an individual to me -while in Mendoza, “I fully believe that every fourth woman in the place -is affected by it.” It was not a rare thing to see a large swelling -on both sides of the throat, so large as to be absolutely disgusting. -There was in the neighborhood of Mendoza a spring of fine water, but -only a few of the citizens took advantage of its existence. - -Mendoza had, when I was there, a good school for the instruction of -the young, who, like most creoles, acquired knowledge very quickly. -A young Englishman was at the head of the establishment, and in all -respects the school seemed prospering. Besides the school there was a -public library containing three or four thousand volumes, which, if -consulted, could not fail to be of benefit to the inhabitants, who were -extremely ignorant of things unconnected with their immediate vicinity. -The people had recently started a newspaper, “El Constitucional,” -and, judging by the pompous leaders of the gentleman who occupied the -editorial chair, a stranger would have been led to believe that Mendoza -was the greatest and most important city on the globe. - -For their press, types, etc., they were indebted to Mr. Vansice, -formerly of Utica, N. Y., who came to this country several years -before, and by his energy became of great assistance to the government -of the province. He remodelled many old forms, and liberalized the -ideas of the people to such an extent that they encouraged him to -revisit North America, and obtain many articles, the introduction -of which have facilitated the different kinds of labor in which the -people were engaged; and following out this plan to a greater -extent, a company was forming, the object of which was to send to the -United States for machines, tools, &c. Mr. Vansice furnished two other -provinces, also, with printing materials, and used all possible effort -to establish a public press on a substantial basis. - - [Illustration: PATAGONIANS. (From a Photograph.)--Page 207.] - -After filling offices of dignity and honor, he retired to the miserable -little village of San José del Moro, where he resided with his native -wife, carrying on a profitable business in English goods, which were -brought from Valparaiso. - -While I was in Mendoza, the celebration and festivities of the 25th -of May, the independence day of the republic, took place, and were -celebrated with unusual enthusiasm. For several days previous the -people were engaged in preparing for the festivities, though not half -of the lower classes knew for what reason the celebration was made, so -ignorant were they of their country’s history. The government, for one -hundred dollars, secured the services of the North American performers, -and under their direction a ring of adobes was constructed in the -centre of the plaza, and close beside it a rostrum for the governor, -his suite, and the musicians. The news of the _granfuncion_ that was -to take place spread far into the country, and three days prior to -the 25th the gauchos came galloping into town from all parts of the -province. At sunrise, on the great day, I visited the plaza in which -the populace was pouring, the whole forming a most picturesque scene. - -Gauchos, gayly attired, were mounted upon horses decked out with silver -ornaments, and tails braided with ribbons, and galloping about in -little parties. Some farmers came into town, accompanied by their wives -and daughters, and it was no uncommon thing to see two women, each -with a child in her arms, riding on the same horse with a man. At such -galas one sees a degree of life and animation not to be met with at -other times; for, as soon as the festival is over, the people sink into -a most indolent state, and remain so until the next _dia de fiesta_ -arouses them to life and action. - -The school-boys sang the national hymn, and the governor swore to -support the constitution, after which a military review took place. The -several companies, as they marched around the plaza, were preceded by a -trumpeter, who blew terrific blasts as the occasion required. All the -foot soldiers carried old English muskets, the cavalry being armed with -short carbines or lances. - -Two cannon, the only pieces of artillery in the province, were drawn -by foot-soldiers, dressed, like the others, in white pantaloons -and jackets, and from beneath the former hung the frill of the -gaucho drawers. While the review was taking place, the bells of all -the churches were pealing in their usual manner, and rockets were -constantly sent off though the sun shone brightly, which, of course, -did not heighten the pyrotechnic display. Nearly every house showed a -flag, and among them I observed the English colors floating from the -house of the courteous (?) English physician. - -During the day many of the gauchos attempted to climb a greased pole -erected in the plaza, upon the top of which money had been placed; but -not one succeeded in gaining the coveted prize. The only decoration in -the plaza was a hexagonal figure, resembling a Chinese lantern, and -covered with white cloth. Upon each side was painted a figure, one of -Liberty, one of Justice, and another, a portrait of General Urquiza and -our own Washington, side by side. - -The stand was decorated with the flags of the South American republics, -and the only foreign one was that of the United States, which floated -over the figure of Washington, beside which was a quotation from one of -his speeches delivered to the American people. - -The circus performance passed off to the delight of all, and the -equestrians who could so skilfully perform upon a galloping horse were -declared by the gauchos to have been trained for the occasion by his -satanic majesty. - -Just after the 25th, the Mendozinos were thrown into a great excitement -by the announcement that a cacique, attended by fifty of his men, had -left his native plains of Patagonia, and was rapidly approaching the -town. - -Upon the receipt of the news, the governor called together all the -musicians, and sent them to escort the savages into Mendoza. The chief -encamped outside the town, and, having obtained an interview with the -governor, presented, in the most barefaced manner, a petition from his -tribe which any other government would have recognized as an insult, -and treated it as such. He wished to be told how much per month his -tribe would be allowed if they would not steal any more. - -Instead of sending them off about their business, or seizing them, -the governor treated them like spoiled children, promising them an -allowance if they behaved well, and distributing presents among them, -after which they were escorted to their own country, fourteen days’ -travel from Mendoza, by a party of soldiers commanded by an officer. - -A day or two before the departure of these Indians, while I was -transacting some business in a store, the chief entered, followed by -two of his tribe. This beardless savage was dressed in a full English -suit, that he had undoubtedly stolen somewhere, as his tribe were -notorious robbers. - -He addressed me, through an interpreter, in broken Spanish. - -Probably suspecting that I was a foreigner, he asked if “Ropa” (Europe) -was not my home. He had no knowledge of any other country, but supposed -that all foreigners came from the same land on the other side of a -great water. I told him concerning my native land, and in the course of -the conversation remarked that we had a great many Indians, but that -they generally used fire-arms; at which he probably set me down as -being as great a liar as himself. - -According to his own story, he was a good man, a rich man, and a -friend to humanity, and to foreigners in particular, he had the same -hypocritical way of talking as the natives of Mendoza, and I came to -the conclusion that they had mutually assisted each other in their -education. - -After scrutinizing the various objects about him, he at length asked -me, with a grunt, to lend him four reals. Of course I refused him; but -I was curious to learn more of him, and my refusal was not made in the -most decided tone possible. He smiled grimly, and commenced telling a -long story of his beautiful house (?) far away in Patagonia, where I -should always be a welcome visitor. He had vast numbers of ostriches -and guanacos running about his grounds, all of which should be at my -disposal if I would but accompany him back to the pampas. He liked -foreigners, because they were braver than the gauchos. Pausing in the -midst of his harangue, he gave me a punch in the ribs, and asked to be -accommodated with three reals. I again refused. Taking up the thread -of his story, he continued at great length, finally promising to bring -me a tame guanaco when he returned to Mendoza. Here followed another -poke, and a request for two reals, then one, and finally promising to -be content with a medio. I gave it to him, and he left me. - -The circus performers intended leaving Mendoza for San Juan, a town -lying one hundred and fifty miles to the north, and earnestly wished -me to accompany them. To me it mattered little whether I remained -four months in Mendoza or any other place; but before accepting their -invitation I called upon the _correo_, or Chilian courier, to see if I -could possibly cross the Cordillera with him. The _correo_ was away on -the passage, and the postmaster-general believed that he was detained -by the _temporales_ that had been raging, and would not return for -several weeks. - -In crossing the mountains during the winter season, four men form the -_correo_. One carries the mail, another wood, another provisions, -&c. They do not leave either side oftener than once a month, and -are sometimes a whole month in performing the journey, as they are -frequently shut up in the snow-huts that are scattered along the road -for many days at a time. - -The _casuchas_, or snow-huts, are scattered along the trail at -irregular distances. These huts are built of brick with an entrance -so constructed as to be above the drifting snow. The post party left -Mendoza on mules, or horses, and proceeded into the mountains as far -as the depth of snow would permit. Peons then took back the animals, -leaving the _correo_ to continue the journey on foot. This was the -custom at the time of my visit. Upon reaching the main chain of the -Andes, the state of the atmosphere was carefully studied, and if the -result proved favorable they ascended the Cordillera. - -When upon the western side of the chain, the party sometimes adopted -an ingenious method for facilitating their progress. Each man carried -with him a square piece of hide, upon which he sat, and descended the -inclined surfaces with much ease and great rapidity. After reaching -Santa Rosa, the first town upon the western side, the _correo_ mounts a -horse, and gallops to Santiago, the capital of the republic, which is -about twenty leagues from the village. - -Upon the 5th of June the _correo_ had not returned; and as there was -no possibility of my crossing into Chili, I consented to go to San -Juan, and set out about dusk with the circus manager and one of his -men for a _quinta_ outside the town, from which we were to start the -next morning. The owner of the _quinta_ had agreed to take charge -of the company’s mules and baggage, and act as guide to our party -while crossing the dreary _travesia_. We passed, by moonlight, the -burial-ground on the outskirts of the town, and reached the muleteer’s -house, where we found the family sleeping in the yard,--men, women, and -dogs, promiscuously. - -As I probably shall not in this volume again have occasion to refer to -the town of Mendoza, I will here speak of its destruction, which, as -my readers doubtless are aware, occurred in 1861, from an earthquake. -This most terrible catastrophe, in which thousands of human beings lost -their lives, has rarely found a parallel in the history of the western -hemisphere. - -A recent traveller, who visited the place after the calamity, says, in -describing the ruins,-- - -“I arose at an early hour, and sallied forth to see and contemplate the -ruins of the doomed city. - -“I walked along the fine avenue of poplars (the Alameda) for about a -hundred yards, and turned into the right; a few paces brought me into -the nearest street, where I was absolutely struck dumb and immovable -with horror at the scene which presented itself. - -“As I gazed along the whole length of that street, not a single house -was there to be seen standing; all was a confused mass of ‘adobes,’ -beams, and bricks. - -“The street was filled upon a level with what remained of the walls of -the houses on either side, which at a glance accounted for the fearful -number of victims--upwards of twelve thousand--entombed beneath the -ruins of that fatal 20th of March, 1861. - -“From the plaza I turned towards the north, and there saw the only -edifice, or rather portion of one, that had remained entire: it was the -theatre, which, having had a considerable quantity of timber in its -construction, remained partially uninjured. I ascended to the roof, -and got a fine view of the entire city. For a mile around on every -side nothing but a chaotic mass of ruins was visible,--the _débris_ of -a large city razed to the ground in an instant! On the left were the -ruins of what had been once a fine church, ‘Santo Domingo,’ the altar -and a portion of the arch being the only remaining traces of its former -sacred character. - -“Looking away towards the south might be seen the still partially-erect -walls of ‘San Francisco,’ another fine church, which boasted of the -largest bell in the city. This bell was pitched from its position to a -considerable distance by the shock, and stuck between two towers on the -north side of the building, where it may be still seen, wedged in so -firmly that all attempts at removing it simply by lifting have failed. -On approaching ‘Santo Domingo,’ in order to examine it more closely, I -saw lying about its ‘precinct’ several human skeletons, and portions -of the human form protruding from beneath the masses of masonry. I was -almost sickened by the sight, and moved quickly away. In many parts of -the city I saw the same horrible exhibition,--skulls, arms, legs, &c., -lying about, some still undecayed, especially near a convent on the -south side of the city.” - -A gentleman who was buried under the ruins, and afterwards extricated, -in describing his experiences, says,-- - -“I stood at a table (about half-past eight, P. M.) in the centre of the -room, and was in the act of lighting a cigar, when the shock, preceded -by a low, rumbling noise, was first felt. It was slow for a moment in -the beginning; but from the noise, I concluded it was going to be -something more than ordinary; so I rushed into the street, and ran down -the middle, intending, if possible, to reach the Alameda. I had run -only some twenty paces when I felt as if I had been struck a heavy blow -on the back of the head, and was borne down to the earth in a moment. I -knew that the town was infested with rats and vermin of all kinds, and -that, sooner or later, they would not fail to find me out amongst the -thousands of victims entombed, like myself, beneath at least six feet -depth of ‘adobes.’” - -Mr. Hinchliff, who visited Buenos Ayres, in writing of the earthquake, -says,-- - -“M. Bravart, a French _savant_ of some eminence, who had foretold -the destruction of the city by an earthquake, was himself among the -victims. The principal watchmaker in Buenos Ayres, which is about -eight hundred miles distant from the scene of this awful calamity, -told me a curious fact in connection with it. One day he observed with -astonishment that his clocks suddenly differed twelve seconds from his -chronometers; and when the news arrived, about a fortnight later, he -found that the pendulums of the former had been arrested at the moment -of the destruction of Mendoza.” - -Since my return to the United States I received a letter from Don -Guillermo Buenaparte, of San Juan, in which he spoke at considerable -length of the earthquake. He wrote me that when he approached Mendoza, -three or four days after the catastrophe, the stench rising from the -dead bodies beneath the ruins was perceived at a distance of several -miles from the town. He found gauchos from the plains robbing the -wounded, and searching among the rubbish for plunder. When he reached -the public square of the city he found more than a hundred women, all -mentally affected, many entirely bereft of their reason; all were -praying on their knees, asking the Holy Mary to intercede for the lost -souls of their countrymen who had, prior to the fall of the doomed -city, united with others from San Luis, and had attacked and butchered -many of their political enemies (some four hundred) of San Juan. The -unfortunate lunatics seemed to think that God had overthrown their city -to avenge the murder of San Juaninos. A political conspiracy was being -planned in the city at the time it was destroyed. - -Such a spectacle as the above needs no comment. - -At four o’clock of the next morning after our departure from Mendoza, -the muleteer aroused us, and bade us prepare for the journey; and an -hour later we were journeying along the base of the lofty Andes, that -towered above our heads. - -Two hours’ ride brought us to the _travesia_, over which we journeyed, -passing close to a great lake that is supplied by two streams that flow -from the Cordillera. - -Much of the water is absorbed by the soil about the lake; and as but -very little escapes through one or two outlets, it has been called by -the natives “El Guana Cache,” or the Consuming Lake. - -I afterwards saw specimens of fishes that had been taken from its -waters, which were offered for sale in San Juan by the half-starved -peons during the winter season, when provisions were very dear. If the -specimens did not belong to the genus Nematogenys of Girard, they were -closely allied to it. - -At night our party stopped beside a rude hut, inhabited by a poor -gaucho. The hut contained a curious family of men, women, children, -dogs, goats, and fowls. The poor owner begged for a little sugar as a -_remedio_. - -Throughout the following day our course was over the same dreary -desert, and at night we were glad to arrive at a post-house within a -few leagues of San Juan. - -By noon of the next day our party entered the town, which is still more -isolated than Mendoza, being one hundred and fifty miles north of the -principal road to Chili. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] Undoubtedly the miserable food upon which the poor people subsisted -helped in encouraging the growth of this excrescence. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - A WINTER IN SAN JUAN. - - -As soon as I arrived at San Juan, I made inquiries for parties who were -about crossing the mountains; but owing to a most severe snow storm -that set in, the clouds of which were plainly visible from the town, I -was forced to the disagreeable necessity of remaining until the snows -melted. The people told me that the winter had proved to be the most -severe of any season within the last thirty years. They said that after -ten dry or mild winters there always succeeded a similar number of -wet or severe seasons, and that the present was the first of the hard -series. The apparently settled weather that greeted me was but the -precursor of most severe storms in the mountains. They said I could not -cross; to attempt it would be madness. - -While the time hung heavily on my hands, I heard much about a strange -person, yclept Don Guillermo Buenaparte, a North American by birth, -and a second father to the poorer classes of his immediate vicinity. -So many were the charitable deeds of this man, and so frequent were -the eulogies pronounced upon his character by the natives, that I felt -a desire to visit him in his own castle, which he had constructed of -mud and sticks, some eight or nine miles distant, in a small _villa_ -called Causete. - -Before I could find an opportunity of going, I was favored with a call -from the gentleman himself, who rode into the _patio_ of my dwelling -one evening, mounted upon a powerful white horse, and covered with -a long _poncho_, which, with a broad _sombrero_, gave him a truly -patriarchal appearance. - -Don Guillermo, having heard of my arrival in San Juan, had come to -invite me to his estate in Causete, where he carried on a little flour -mill, and followed a number of other occupations. A day was appointed -for the visit, and when it came around I set out with a peon for a -guide for the _villa_. We soon, on leaving the town, came upon a plain -which gave support to a few stunted trees, peculiar to the _travesia_. -With the soil was mingled the peculiar saline mineral described in -a former chapter, which, with the dryness of the atmosphere (for -it seldom rains in this part of the republic), made our journey a -disagreeable one. - -In crossing this tract the reflections of the sun’s rays upon the white -surface affected my sight, and obliged me to follow the practice of my -guide, and, like him, cover the face with a large cotton handkerchief, -_à la gaucho_. The first human habitation that I saw was a rancho built -of cornstalks; and here reposed a peon with his wife, children, and -dogs, while a huge buck goat, with a formidable pair of horns, stood at -the entrance as if to receive us. - -I soon came to a place where a liberty pole was standing; and knowing -that such a thing could not be the work of the natives, I concluded -that I must be near the residence of my new acquaintance. I was not -mistaken, for he soon appeared over a little rising ground. After -greeting me cordially, he led me across the canal, that furnished his -mill with water, to his house, where he introduced me to his wife and -four children, the youngest of whom could not yet lisp its father’s -name. - -I remained through the day with them, and when night came on, so -interesting had been Don Guillermo’s recital of nine years’ residence -in the Argentine Republic, that I was easily prevailed upon to remain -until morning. The next day came and passed, but still I was an inmate -of my countryman’s house, and finally was persuaded to promise that I -would not leave it until the snows began to melt upon the Cordilleras, -when I must hasten to Chili, and from its principal port, Valparaiso, -sail for home. - -I accepted the offer of Don Guillermo’s hospitality only upon the -condition that I should be of service to him by taking charge of his -mill; for the natives were so dishonest that he dared not employ one -in any office of trust, and I felt that it would be but a pleasure for -me to aid him. I was accordingly installed, after fifteen minutes’ -teaching, as _molinero_, or chief miller. - -I felt proud of my office, though it was but a humble one. My mind was -fully occupied, and I became contented. When opportunities offered, I -took an old condemned English musket, which I charged with powder and -a few pebbles, and made explorations in the surrounding country for -the purpose of making collections in its _fauna_. I often captured -many a rare specimen, and laid the foundation of an ornithological -collection; but although I had no difficulty in getting specimens and -preparing them,--for taxidermy was familiar to me,--I found one great -obstacle to their preservation that I could not surmount. As my readers -doubtless know, arsenic is very essential for preserving the skins of -birds and mammals, and I found I could do but little without it. So one -day I mounted my horse,--a present from Don Guillermo,--and galloped -into town in quest of the mineral; but not one of the druggists would -sell me an ounce of poison; it was a crime to vend the article. I -applied to the physicians, but to no avail. I next tried some of the -officers of the government, but failed again. I even offered _three -dollars_ for one pound. The doctors and officers exclaimed, “What does -the boy want? He’s mad! Where did he come from?” &c. - -Despondingly I returned to the mill, and my fine collection, intended -for a scientific society at home, was destroyed in a short time by a -minute species of red ants, which ate the skins almost entirely. - -A pair of burrowing owls, a dove, a stilt, and a few eggs were all that -I succeeded in bringing home with me. - -At the mill the season proved to be a busy one. Merchants from other -provinces visited San Juan, and after disposing of their goods, -generally invested their returns in wheat, which was sent to the mill -to be ground. There were no water privileges in the interior, and -the merchants and farmers of Cordova and San Luis frequently sent -wheat three or four hundred miles by troops of mules. My office, -therefore, proved an advantageous one, as I was enabled to have direct -intercourse with people from several of the northern and eastern -provinces. Among the numbers that I became acquainted with were the -old-fashioned Riojano, who came from his distant home to the north of -the desert, clothed in a heavy _frasada_, manufactured from wool of -his own shearing by the industry of his wife or daughter. Sometimes -the Indian-looking Santiaguenian, or Catamarean, and the crafty yet -polite Cordovese, traded at the mill; and many were the little gifts -that the most respectable portion of my customers brought me from -their estates far back in the irrigated _travesia_, or along the bases -of the Andes. The press of business demanded that the mill should be -run night and day. This compelled the poorer classes that came from a -distance to sleep in the mill. And at night, when all was quiet, save -the restless hum of the revolving stone, it was a curious sight to -peep in at the door, and behold the ground covered with sleeping forms -of men, women, and children of many types and complexions--here the -offspring of the negro and Indian; there the child of a Spanish father -and Indian mother. It was a study worthy the attention of a profound -ethnologist to separate and classify the various crosses and mixtures -of the different races of the genus _homo_ that came to the mill of Don -Guillermo Buenaparte. - -Leaving the dusty atmosphere of the mill, I frequently wandered out -into the night air to gaze upon nature by moonlight. The canal that -watered the district of Causete branched off in a different direction -from the main _acquia_, and could be traced, as it wound along the -_travesia_, by the willows and clumps of reeds that grew upon its -banks. The Andes towered above the plains a few miles to the west, -while on the east the solid range of the mountains of Cordova, -stretching far to the north, gave an additional grandeur to the scene. -The nights were bland and lovely, excepting when the wind called the -_zonda_ (a sort of sirocco) came from the Andes, when the natives -suffered from its parching heat, and those affected with diseases of -the heart trembled in expectation of sudden death. - -While I strolled along the banks of the canal the mill hummed on as -usual, for Don Guillermo had constructed an ingenious method of alarm, -by means of which the absent or sleepy miller was warned of the state -of affairs within the building. - -Such was the delight that I took in these rambles upon the _travesia_, -that duty was in one or two instances neglected, and I found, on -returning to the mill, that some villanous male or degraded female was -stealing the “millings” from the miller’s box, or purloining flour from -the hide sack of some countryman who was fast in the embrace of the -drowsy god. Once or twice, on such occasions, I became so vexed as to -attempt clearing the room of the thievish fellows; but to accomplish -this required a stronger arm than mine, and one attempt almost resulted -in a general _mélée_; but as the female customers always took sides -with the gringo, I came off in good condition, and attained my object: -thus the good name of the mill was not forfeited. - -The gauchos love to gamble, and while waiting for the mill to do its -work, they generally spent the time in playing their favorite games, -always staking small sums of money upon the chances in order to make -the time pass more profitably. But whatever might have been the rules -of the other mills, Don Guillermo soon put a stop to what he called -a degenerating practice, and by various small skirmishes with the -gaucho peons, he fully demonstrated that _his_ was a North American -institution, and that, therefore, gambling could not be permitted -upon his premises. The peons remonstrated, but the don was firm. They -threatened to ruin his business by patronizing the other mills in -preference to his own; but as their masters respected the policy of my -friend, they were restrained from carrying out their designs. Thus law -and order were firmly established, and North American principles were -triumphant. It requires no small degree of firmness and knowledge of -human nature to carry on the flour and grain business in the Argentine -Republic. - -Peace and quiet did not last long before a second innovation was -attempted, although upon a new plan. A band of thieves and loafers -erected a hut of cornstalks and briers upon the opposite side of -the canal, in the district of Anjuaco, and the place was once more -disturbed by midnight revels, and by frequent raids upon the grounds of -neighboring farmers. Sheep, calves, and, even horses, disappeared in -a mysterious manner. At length Don Guillermo became exasperated, and -watching an opportunity when the rascals were absent, he attacked the -shanty, levelled it to the ground, and, collecting the ruins into one -pile, set fire to it, and burned it to ashes. - -The party returned, and, on seeing the condition of their house, would, -in their rage, have demolished the buildings of the don, had not fear -prevented them; for they well knew that the law-and-order man possessed -fire-arms, dogs, and a stout heart. - -During my stay at the mill I occasionally visited the town of San -Juan, and passed a few hours with some acquaintances. I found, to my -surprise, among the wealthier citizens, a class of society, which, -for dignity of deportment, strictness in etiquette, and generous -hospitality, would favorably compare with any class that I have met in -the United States or in Europe. The young men were intelligent and full -of generous ardor, and the maidens--how shall I describe them? Since -returning to North America, my friends have sometimes asked if they -resembled our Indian women! - -“Most certainly not,” I have almost indignantly answered. The higher -classes of San Juan boast of a pure descent from the old Spaniards -or Portuguese. The fine, clear atmosphere of the Andes provinces has -affected favorably the complexion, and most of these people have a skin -as light as that of the inhabitants of the southern states of the Union. - -Many of the females, particularly the younger ones, have complexions -that, in clearness and beauty, would rival the blondes of the north. -In addition to personal beauty, the ladies of San Juan can boast of -varied attractions. The guitar is used with a grace and skill that give -evidence of careful study and long practice. Many play upon the piano, -using instruments that have been carted a thousand miles over the -pampas, from the port of Buenos Ayres. - -All can embroider with skill and elegance. Poetry appears to be -assiduously cultivated among them, and many specimens of true -inspiration came to my notice that would be considered worthy of the -name of Tennyson or Longfellow. - -Altogether I know of no situation more pleasant, or containing more -elements of interest and romance, than San Juan. It combines every -description of scenery, from the arid plain of the _travesia_ to the -sublime alpine ranges; and it has a climate, during many months of the -year, of surpassing loveliness. - -The San Juaninos are a most hospitable people; and when the remembrance -of their unaffected and genial kindness comes to my mind, I feel the -keenest regret that we are so widely separated. - -The town is said to contain about nine thousand inhabitants; but I -think the estimate high, although many persons have given a larger -population. It certainly, in numbers, falls below Mendoza. The town -is laid out in the same manner as was Mendoza, and is watered by -the canals that run from the River San Juan, a stream rising in the -Cordillera. - -No goitre exists in this vicinity. I saw only one case of it during my -stay, and the subject had lived many years in Mendoza. - -About the town are large pastures of clover, which serve to fatten -the numerous herds of cattle that pass through the town on the way to -Copiapo or Coquimbo, in Chili. Soap, raisins, and cattle are among the -exports to the latter named state. Flour is forwarded to the pampa -towns, and to the villages on the _travesia_. Wine is made in large -quantities, but does not now pay a sufficient profit if sent to any -considerable distance, although it was exported largely in by-gone -years. All the fruits that grow in Mendoza thrive better in this -province. The oranges of Mendoza seemed to possess an acrid taste, but -I did not detect this in any of the fruits of San Juan. The vineyards -surpass anything that I have ever seen,--not in the culture of the -grape, as but little is done to the vines, but in the quality of the -fruit. I distinguished eleven kinds of grapes in the _quintas_ around -San Juan. - -The iron plough and other improved implements of agriculture were -unknown, and when I described to the _quinteros_ the facility with -which the celebrated Prouty and Mears centre draught plough is handled, -they fairly overwhelmed me with questions, which had, at least, the -merit of artlessness. - -There is at San Juan a Board of Water Commissioners, who have charge -of the irrigating department. These officials are seven in number. -They have labored hard to extend the main canals beyond the _villas_ -of Causete and Anjaco, even to the very base of the _Pié de palo_, or -wooden foot--a sierra some fourteen miles east of San Juan. By these -means the sterile saline _travesia_ is gradually becoming clothed -with verdure, and spreading pastures of clover, surrounded by poplars -and willows, cover spots that three years since were occupied only by -scattered thorn-bushes. - -As I have already mentioned, the situation of miller, that I filled, -was the means of giving me many opportunities for meeting and studying -different phases of character. - -One of my customers, whom I have set down in my journal as Don José, -the penitent, was indeed a study. He was a large-limbed, long-winded, -courageous old fellow, of the pure Spanish stock, and descended from -the original conquerors of the Argentine Republic. I had frequently -heard his name mentioned by the gauchos, one or two of whom delighted -in telling of his prowess during the last revolution. The town of San -Juan had been taken by an armed band while the illustrious Benavides -was outside the place, and Don José, who was then an _arriero_, or -muleteer, felt it his duty to rescue it from what he considered the -wrong political party. The _cuartel_ had been taken, and no soldiers -could be enlisted for the purpose; but Don José’s energy did not fail. -He scoured the country about San Juan, and collected twenty-five -gauchos, who followed him to the town. The precipitate entry made -by the gallant little party struck fear and consternation into the -revolutionists, and Don José was hailed as deliverer for many weeks. - -The rich people, who had never before noticed him, now touched their -_sombreros_, and honored him with their praise and approbation. But, -as Don José said, this did not give him money, and he therefore was -no better in station than before the revolution. He was still a peon. -After the excitement had died away, and rich dons no longer doffed -their hats as he passed, he sat soberly down and meditated upon how he -could raise money enough to rent him a farm, for he well knew that his -industry would soon make him independent, provided he could hire a spot -of land fit for cultivation. Nobody would loan him a _peso_. - -Our hero, nevertheless, did not despond. He sought relief in religion, -but in a different manner from that which is usually practised. The -don knew that several of the churches of the town had large endowments. -People dying, and wishing to enter a better world, there to enjoy a -life of bliss, had left sums of money to the church, surely not to -be applied to charitable purposes, for the priests generally require -nine dollars for saying mass over the body of the poorest child of -the church. The priests will sometimes lend these moneys upon good -security, and to pious people, at the low rate of five per cent.; and -we may well call this a low rate, when, in business transactions, the -people of the interior towns rarely charge less than eighteen per cent. - -The don, knowing that he had not attended mass regularly, did not feel -satisfied that his application for money to the priests would meet -with success, and he therefore commenced a plan that, if carried out, -would insure him all the money that his wants required. He resolved to -become a penitent. He looked back over his past life with sorrow. “I -have sinned--have sinned more than all others,” he said to the other -penitents. “I am resolved to change my mode of life, and now I will -live for some good purpose.” - -Each day his phiz lengthened. “How solemn he looks!” said the friends -of his family; “poor Don José!” He lost flesh rapidly, and the brave -deliverer of the town became feeble as a woman. He attended church -regularly, was always at the masses, and never absent from the -confessional. He was, in short, a model church member. The priests -were his friends,--not the jolly, fat, laughing padres, but the -frizzle-headed, stern old fellows, that rarely smiled, and then only -at the follies of the world. Don José fasted a great deal, and then, -after advising with his confessor, determined to scourge himself, -and to pass three days in solitary confinement. He bade adieu to his -friends, and locked himself into a little domicile that belonged to -the church. Here, in communion with himself, he passed three long days -and nights without food. With a short piece of raw hide he chastised -his body,--vicariously, probably, after the example of his illustrious -Manchegan countryman,--and spots of blood (from the arteries of an ox) -were observed upon the floor and walls of the chamber when good Father -R. entered, and who declared that his son had done his duty nobly. - -Don José had accomplished his object. He could be trusted by the clergy -now, and it was with pleasure that the treasurer-padre gave the sum -required by our hero. With the borrowed money he rented a farm, and I -can so far attest to the success of his operations, that as I passed -his residence I often filled my saddlebag with the fruits of his -penitence, which I took to the mill to make happy the little cherubs of -Don Guillermo. - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - A WINTER IN SAN JUAN--CONTINUED. - - -With the approach of spring, the desert around the mill became a -constant source of study to me. The lagoon near the house was filled -with seven or eight species of ducks and teals, and occasionally a pair -of white swans might be seen upon the water, where they frequently -staid for several days in succession. The ducks remained throughout the -whole year; and before I left Causete, the _China_ or half-breed girls -were frequently seen swimming into the lagoon, where they captured -great numbers of the young fowl. - -The green-winged teal, pin-tailed duck, and other species of the -northern continent, were far from uncommon. - -One day, while standing in the doorway of the mill, attempting to get -a glimpse of a dim line of the point of the _Pié de palo_, where I had -been told that a beautiful region, called the “Fertile Valley,” lay -embosomed in trees, my attention was attracted to a dark spot in the -sierra, which seemed to be a hole in the rock. On the following day, -at sunset, I again distinguished the same dark spot: each day it grew -larger; and one morning an old miner came into the mill, and informed -me that a company of Chilenos were opening a vein; the situation of -the _sierra_, the peculiarities of the rock, &c., led him to doubt -of the practicability of the undertaking. How the party succeeded in -their search for gold I have not yet learned; but the antecedents of -the mountain are bad, for when the _sierra_ was discovered by the -early adventurers, in expectation of finding gold, they named it -_Pié de Oro_, or “Foot of Gold,” and afterwards, when they had been -disappointed in searching for the ore, they dropped the first name, and -called it that by which it is known at the present day--_Pié de Palo_, -or “Wooden Foot.” - -The llama and other animals are found in the _sierra_ of this section, -which are also known--for what reason I never could learn--as the -mountains of Cordova. I had not time to visit the range when in -Causete, though I much desired to do so, as the old guides and miners -told many strange stories regarding it. - -One evening, as I was in the mill at work, a servant came from the -house, saying that Don Guillermo wished to see me, and give me an -introduction to a guest who had just arrived. I repaired to the house, -where I made the acquaintance of the celebrated gaucho, _Diablo_ -McGill. As he has quite a local notoriety, I will speak of him more -fully here than I otherwise would. - -McGill was celebrated above most gauchos for his skill in using the -lasso, knife, and _boliadores_, and in the management of wild colts. -He was the handsomest herdsman that I ever saw, and was so polite and -easy in his intercourse with strangers that I at first doubted if he -was really the wild gaucho of whom I had heard so much. McGill was -the owner of a troop of mules, he left his native province to follow -the wandering life of a pampa merchant, because he despised his own -countrymen, and declared that they were all peons (laborers), and not -gauchos; for the province in which he was born, being situated upon -the desert, at the base of the Andes, contained very few cattle-farms, -and consequently the inhabitants were mostly traders, laborers, and -“loafers.” - -He visited the province annually, and while in his native town -invariably played some mad prank to astonish the natives, and keep his -reputation as a _diablo_. - -On feast days he dressed himself in the full habiliments of a herdsman, -a showy _chiropá_, finely-wrought drawers, heavy silver spurs, &c. His -horse was selected with care from his corral, and bedecked with silver -ornaments from the head to the tail, and a costly _recado_, or country -saddle, placed upon its back. Thus equipped, he would sally forth to -visit the various _pulperias_, or drinking-shops, where the gauchos -crowded to listen to his songs, and tales of mighty deeds transacted -while accompanying his troop of mules across the lonely pampas. - -All the señoritas felt happy when McGill asked them to accompany him -through _la samba cueca_, _el gato_, or _la mariquita_, as the three -principal dances are styled, and she who could keep the wild gaucho by -her side for one half hour felt more gratified than if she had made a -dozen ordinary conquests. But the wild gaucho could not love a fair -señorita, though she might be the belle of the province. Horses, wild -colts, wild bulls, and wild gauchos were his chosen companions, and the -fair sex tried, but in vain, to find some uncovered spot upon which to -make an impression: he was impenetrable to the shafts of Cupid. - -The story is told that, during one of his last visits Don Antonio -Moreno, who had always envied the success of McGill, challenged him to -prove his skill in the use of the lasso. McGill accepted the challenge, -and entered, lasso in hand, the corral of the jealous Don Antonio. - -“I will do more than you challenge me to attempt,” said our hero, -coolly. “Here are five hundred mules in this circular yard, and as you -drive around the circle they run eight or ten abreast. Now, I will -stand in the middle, and as they pass around me you are to call out -which mule you wish lassoed, and upon what leg or part of the body the -animal is to be noosed. This you must do when the particular beast is -in front of me, so that I can throw the lasso _when she is behind me_. -As fast as one is caught, you are to remove her from the corral. Thus -will I catch each of the five hundred mules, without missing a single -throw, and catch them while they pass BEHIND MY BACK. Will that satisfy -you, Don Antonio Moreno?” - -The other party looked incredulous. Don Antonio was himself a -first-rate gaucho and _rastreador_; he had seen good lassoing, but this -offer seemed preposterous. - -“Go on, McGill,” he said, with a contemptuous shrug of the shoulders. -“When you have caught five hundred mules behind your back, I will pay -you well for your trouble.” - -The gaucho took his place in the centre of the yard, and, as the mules -were driven around the circle, threw his lasso with unerring skill; -first one, then another, then a third, rolled over upon the ground, -always falling upon the head in a particular manner. - -Don Antonio suspected the gaucho, and perceiving his object in throwing -the mules upon their heads, protested against it. - -“You will break the necks of half of them!” he exclaimed to the gaucho, -who at the same moment, with a dexterous jerk on the lasso, sent -another mule, stunned, upon the ground. - -“Stop!” he shouted. “McGill, what mean you by throwing the mules in -that manner?” - -“What do I mean?” replied the herdsman, as another mule shared the same -fate of the last one. “What do I mean? Why, man, I mean to break the -necks of all your mules, that I may give you a certain proof that I -_can_ throw the lasso equal to, and better than, any San Juanino.” - -“Enough! enough!” replied the excited don. “You have proved it; there -is no necessity of further effort. Besides, these mules are to be -driven across the Cordillera into Chili, and if you break their necks -it’s money out of my pocket. Had we not better enter the house? I -believe Doña Trinidad is ready to serve _maté_.” - -When McGill rode forth upon a feast day as Gaucho Porteño, or Buenos -Ayrean herdsman, the peons of San Juan gazed with astonishment upon -his rich trappings. I have the list of articles that he and his -animal wore. Upon his favorite black horse were first placed three -_bageras_, or skins, to preserve the animal’s back from the chafing -of saddle-gear. Upon these were laid a heavy, fine-wrought _jergon_, -or blanket, to absorb the perspiration; over these were laid, first, -a _corona de vaca_, or cow’s hide covering, to give firmness to the -saddle; secondly, a _corona_ of fine leather, to hide the rougher -pieces beneath. - -The latter article, which was richly embossed, was very ornamental, and -drew from the gauchos many admiring remarks. Upon this platform, or -foundation the _recardo_ was placed, and kept firmly in position by a -wide _cincha_, or girth, cut from softened, untanned hide. A _pellon_, -or sheepskin, was laid upon the saddle, and kept in its place by a -smaller girth. The _pellon_ was then covered with a small piece of -embroidered cloth, worked by the hands of some fair damsel. The lasso -lay upon the animal’s croup, behind the rider, and was attached to an -iron ring in the broad _cincha_. A pair of _alforjas_, or saddle-bags, -were thrown across the peak of the saddle, and around the animal’s neck -hung a leather rope, the _fiador_, used to tie him when feeding, though -the lasso is generally employed for that purpose. - -Upon the peak of the saddle were swung the _chifles,_ two cows’ horns, -in which was carried wine or water,--fluids absolutely indispensable -upon the _travesia_ of San Luis. - -From beneath the left side of the _coronas_, close by the peak of the -saddle, peeped the three balls, the well-known _boliadores_ (called in -most works of travel _bolas_), with which the gaucho secures game while -upon the road. - -Hanging from the _fiador_ was a pair of _manes_, or shackles, for -the horse’s fore feet, which serve the same purpose as a pair of -handcuffs. If the rider wishes to leave his horse in the street, where -many travellers are passing, he places the _manes_ upon the animal’s -fore legs, and it is only with great difficulty that the beast can -slowly move about. Lastly, the bridle, a magnificent article, formed -of leather, and thickly studded with silver plates, and the horse was -equipped. McGill was dressed in the gala costume of a Buenos Ayrean -gaucho, with drawers of the finest needlework, and the _chiropá_, that -covered his loins, of costly silk. From this description the reader can -gain some idea of a fast man among the gauchos, for such was the guest -of Don Guillermo. - -In this connection I may devote a few lines to a character well known -throughout the Provinces of La Plata--the _rastreador_, or trailer. - -While the mill was in operation one afternoon, I had occasion to leave -the building, in order to let on more water from the _acquia_. While -attending to the flood-gate, I saw an old man slowly approaching the -mill, with his eyes bent upon the ground. He frequently stopped to -inspect the soil; then, continuing his course, he passed the mill, and -crossed the rude bridge that spanned the canal. Continuing along the -_travesia_ in the district of Anjuco, he was soon lost among the thorn -trees and thickets of _mata-gusano_. I thought no more of the old man, -supposing that he had probably lost some article, and was searching for -it. An hour later he returned to the mill, and said a few words to Don -Guillermo and several gauchos, who were waiting for their respective -turns at the hopper. In an instant the loom was vacated; the party -dispersed along the road, and as they occasionally came together near -the mill, I could see the old man giving some advice, upon which the -gauchos again dispersed. The party returned about eight o’clock, and -from the peons I learned that the old man was a trailer. He had been -walking along the road, and had noticed a footprint that struck him -as “deceitful.” He said that a man had passed the mill about three -o’clock, and that the man was a robber. “For he was dressed,” said the -trailer, “in woman’s clothes. There are places along his trail that -prove he held the dress up with his hands; in others it trailed along -the ground. He wore a woman’s shoe, which did not fit him; his foot -was broad, the shoe long and narrow. He walked in some places, and ran -through the thickets. No man dresses in woman’s garb without some bad -intent.” - -“He is somewhere among the ranches of Anjuco.” - -Wonderful to state, news came from town the next day that several -men had dressed themselves in female attire, and in that disguise -had visited the stores in the Calle Ancho, or Broadway, where they -had purloined many articles, which the rogues had hidden beneath -their dresses. It was the trail of one of these dresses that the old -_rastreador_ had struck. - -The patriot Sarmiento, a San Juanino by birth, says of the -characteristics of these men, the trailers,-- - -“Once, as I was crossing a path that led into the Buenos Ayres road, -the muleteer that conducted me cast his eyes upon the ground, as was -his custom, and said a very good black mule passed here yesterday; she -had an easy gait, and was saddled; she belongs to the troop of Don -----. This man was coming from the _sierra_ of San Luis; the troop was -returning from Buenos Ayres. - -“A year had passed since he had seen the black mule, the track of -which was confused with those of a whole troop, in a path not more -than two feet wide. But this keenness of perception, so apparently -incredible, is a faculty common to every gaucho; this man was a mere -muleteer, and not a professional trailer.” - -He also describes another trailer in _La Vida de Juan_, Facundo -Quiroga, as follows:-- - -“I knew a trailer by the name of Calibar, who had practised his -profession in one province during forty successive years. He is now -nearly eighty years old, and though bowed with age, still retains a -venerable and dignified appearance. - -“When they speak to him of his fabulous reputation, he answers, ‘I am -now useless; these are my children.’ It is said of him that during a -trip that he made to Buenos Ayres a saddle was stolen from his house. - -“His wife covered the robber’s track with a wooden bowl. Two months -later Calibar returned home, and saw the almost obliterated footprint, -that to other eyes was imperceptible, and nothing more was said of the -occurrence. A year and a half afterwards Calibar was walking along a -street in the suburbs of the town, with his head inclined towards the -ground. He entered a house, and found a saddle, blackened, and almost -worthless from use; he had found the trail of the robber after a lapse -of two years. - -“During the year 1830 a criminal had escaped from jail, and Calibar was -charged to find him. The unhappy man, knowing that he would be tracked, -had taken all the precautions which the fear of the scaffold could -invent. - -“Useless precautions! Perhaps they only served to insnare him, for -Calibar felt that his reputation might be compromised, and self-pride -caused him to acquit himself well. - -“The runaway took every advantage of the unevenness of the ground so as -to baffle his pursuer; but his efforts only proved the marvellous sight -of the _rastreador_. - -“He walked the whole length of streets on tiptoe, then climbed low -walls, crossed a pasture, and returned in his own track. - -“Calibar followed without losing the trail. If he momentarily missed -it, it was soon recovered. At last he arrived at a canal of water in -the suburbs, where the fugitive had followed the current, to foil the -trailer. But in vain! Calibar followed along the shore without any -uneasiness, and at last stopped to examine some grass, with the words, -‘At this place he came out; there is no track, but these drops of water -in the pasture indicate it.’ - -“The fugitive had entered a vineyard. Calibar surveyed with his eye -the walls that surrounded it, and said, ‘He is within.’ The party of -soldiers that attended him sought in the vineyard without success. -At length they became tired of hunting, and returned to report the -uselessness of their search. ‘He has not come out,’ was the brief -answer which the trailer gave, without moving himself, or proceeding -to a new examination. He had not come out, indeed; another search -discovered him, and on the following day he was executed.” - - - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - VIENTE DE ZONDA. - - -In a preceding chapter I made reference to the _viente de zonda_, -or zonda wind; and as the history of it is imperfectly known in the -northern continent, I will here speak of it to some extent. - -The _viente de zonda_ may be called a local wind, as it blows only in -the vicinity of the province of San Juan, the town where the following -observations were made. - -San Juan, the capital of the province, lies at the eastern base of -the Andes, three or four leagues distant from the outer sierra, south -latitude 31° 4′ (Molina), longitude 68° 57′ west (Arrowsmith). Behind -the first range in a valley are four or five farms, which constitute -the hamlet of Zonda, from which the wind is named. It blows at all -seasons, though during July and August (midwinter) it is most frequent. -This wind is hot and parching to the skin, and brings with it clouds of -dust and fine sand. - -All persons leave their work, and seek refuge in their houses, while -frequently the huts of the gauchos are blown down by the force of -the wind. Most persons are troubled with severe headaches. Those who -have been suffering from diseases of the heart find their complaints -greatly aggravated, and frequently there are cases of sudden death. -Three or four years since, five persons fell dead during the _zondas_ -in the month of August. The wind lasts sometimes two or three hours; -at other times, forty-eight hours, though this long duration is rare. -While the _zondas_ is at its height, a few puffs of cold air from the -south announce a change, and immediately the weather-cock veers from -east and west to north and south, and a cold wind, equally as strong as -the hot _zonda_, then prevails from the south. All nature is refreshed -by the change, and men resume their abandoned labors. - -In searching through the works of the very few authors who have -visited the interior of the Argentine states (all but one or two of -whom were Europeans), I find that only one mentions the existence of -this phenomenon; and he did not, probably, visit the town where my -observations were made, which locality is considered by the natives as -the northern limit of the _zondas_. - -John Miers, the author of an interesting work on the Provinces of La -Plata and Chili, remained a short time in Mendoza. He states that this -southern locality is annoyed by winds that blow during the summer -months from the valley of Zonda, and notes the fact that two dark -clouds came from the north-west, and hovered over the town during the -greater part of the night, and in the morning everything that had been -exposed to the air was covered with fine sand, which was of a light -gray color, and slightly magnetic. It was Miers’s opinion that “a -_souffrière_, or active volcano,” existed to the northward of San Juan, -from which the hurricanes and showers of sand originated. Had Mr. -Miers visited San Juan, his view of the position of the volcano would, -undoubtedly, have been changed; for though the _zondas_ reach Mendoza -to the south, the direction of the wind when it strikes that place -differs from the line it follows when it rushes with violence upon the -northern town. At San Juan it comes due west from the Andes. Hence the -starting-point of the _zonda_ cannot be to the north of the town, as -Miers conjectured. According to the account of the natives, the _zonda_ -of San Juan does not cover a broader space than ten or fifteen miles -after it leaves the sierra of Zonda. - -Taking this into consideration, in connection with Miers’s statement -that the Mendoza _zonda_ comes from the north-west, differing, as it -will be seen, four points from the northern town, we may infer that the -Mendoza and San Juan _zondas_ do not blow at the same time. If this is -true, it is an interesting fact, showing that this peculiar wind does -not always follow the same track. - -Miers further states that these are summer winds in Mendoza. From -personal observation, and by reliable accounts of educated San -Juaninos, I found that they were more particularly the winter winds; -at least they are more frequent during that season. Invalids suffering -from pneumonical diseases and complaints affecting the heart and liver, -anticipate the month of August (midwinter) with consternation, and -their anxiety is not quieted until they have passed through the dreaded -ordeal. - -While passing the winter in San Juan, I noted the courses of upwards -of twenty _zondas_. Some were of short duration; others lasted eighteen -or twenty hours. - -During the latter part of August, as I was standing upon the saline -desert, a few miles east of San Juan, my attention was attracted by a -cloud of dust that appeared to roll through the air as it approached -me. I started for a shelter, and had hardly reached it when the _zonda_ -swept past, filling the air with fine yellow sand. The temperature of -the previously sultry atmosphere suddenly rose many degrees, and the -occupants of the neighboring huts were affected with severe headaches. -I noted, with a compass, the course of the wind, which was west. All -night and through the following day and night, the wind continued -blowing with undiminished force. Each hour the vane beside the hut -was consulted, and the same course as at first was always observed. -A few hours before the wind ceased the sand showers were exhausted. -The greatest heat was during the first few hours; and this is always -the case if the _zonda_ commences during the day. After continuing -for thirty-six hours the change came. It was instantaneous. The hot -wind seemed cut off at right angles by a cold wind from the south. The -change could not have occupied more than forty seconds. The south wind -lasted twenty hours, and was as violent as the hot _zonda_. In speaking -of the Mendoza _zondas_, Miers does not mention the succession of the -south wind. It is easy to comprehend that, after so large an area has -become filled with heated air, the effect will be felt in the cooler -regions of the south, and a strong current from that direction will -rush in to restore the atmospheric equilibrium. Hence the cause of the -south wind succeeding the _zonda_. - -Miers believed that the origin of the _zondas_ was volcanic, and a -corroboration of his views is found in the work of Sir Woodbine Parish, -in which he states that the volcano Penguenes, which is situated about -one hundred miles south-west from Mendoza, and reaches an altitude of -nearly fifteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, emits clouds -of ashes and pumice-dust. This dust is carried by the winds as far as -Mendoza, but these clouds do not strike the town with the force of -the San Juan _zonda_. The pumice-dust is _borne_ along by variable -winds. From this fact we may infer that the fine sand of the _zondas_ -comes from a similar source. The most important question is, _Where -originates the hot and parching wind that always accompanies, and is -peculiar to, the zondas?_ The old guides, who are familiar with the -valleys of the Andes, informed me that these winds blow from off the -main snow-clad ridge of that great chain of mountains, and expressed -their surprise at the fact “that from a cold region comes a burning -wind.” - -Strong and steady winds generally follow a direct line. This fact -is characteristic of the _zondas_. If Miers’s conjecture be true -regarding the origin of these winds, the position of the volcano, or -_souffrière_, might be found by observing the following suggestion, -bearing in mind that the Mendoza wind comes from the _north-west_, and -the San Juan _zonda_ from the _west_. That point where two lines--one -running west from the northern town, the other _north-west_ from the -southern town--will intersect, is the starting-point of the sand -clouds, if not of the accompanying hot wind. - -Looking upon the map of South America, we find in the Cordillera of -the Andes, between the latitudes of San Juan and Mendoza, four peaks -marked as doubtful volcanoes: Limari, directly west of San Juan; -Chuapu, thirty miles farther south; and near the half-way point of the -two towns, Ligua. To the north of west of Mendoza stands prominent the -lofty Aconcagua, that has been estimated by two English captains to -have an elevation of twenty-three thousand nine hundred feet. The point -of intersection of the west and north-west _zonda_ lines is in the -vicinity of Limari and Chuapu, and, if not either of these, the _zonda_ -volcano is a near neighbor to them. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE. - - -During the months that I remained with Don Guillermo, I studied well -the character of mine host; and so generous were his sentiments, -and kind his heart, that each day my attachment for him increased. -His life had been a curious one; and as we sat by the table, one -morning, imbibing a _maté_, I urged him to give me some account of his -peregrinations since leaving his native land. Grasping my hand, with -tears visible in his eyes, he said, “My friend, if you will promise to -search out my relatives, when you return to North America, and give -them my history, I will willingly answer your request.” A _brasero_ of -coals having been placed beneath the table, around which the members of -the household were seated, Don Guillermo commenced his recital. - -“At eighteen years of age, certain family troubles occurred, and -being a proud-spirited youth, I changed my quiet life on shore for an -adventurous one upon the ocean. From my own village I proceeded to -the great metropolis, New York, and was directed, after some inquiry, -to a shipping office, the proprietor of which informed me that he was -procuring a large crew for a vessel, owned, and then lying, at New -Bedford. The first question asked by this gentleman was, ‘Have you been -round the Horn?’ As this was to be my first trip upon salt water, I -informed him to that effect. ‘Well,’ continued he, ‘that’s bad enough. -Now, you see, I have already shipped all the green hands that are -wanted, and the old man sent word down from Bedford forbidding me to -take any others than such as have made one or two voyages. But don’t -get discouraged at trifles; we will settle that matter: follow me.’ - -“In the centre of the room was a post or pillar, upon which was a cow’s -horn; and round this he walked twice, I following close upon his heels. -‘Now,’ said the shipping master, ‘if any man, sailor or monkey, says -that you haven’t been round the Horn, just give him the lie. You can -sign these articles, and go up to Bedford to-morrow morning, with a -dozen likely young men, who are going to sea for their health, and they -will enjoy themselves, I don’t doubt, as there are several gentlemen’s -sons among the crew.’ I was amused at this comical way of weathering -the Horn, and asked him if it would not be advisable to inform our -captain of the quick passage I had made; but the old fellow silenced me -by stating that he had shipped hundreds of sailors (?) in the same way, -and they had all given satisfaction. - -“I left New Bedford, a few days later, in the Golconda, and, after a -good run round the Horn, we touched at several places on the coast -of Chili, at one of which I left the vessel, and secretly joined a -pearl and whale ship that was bound to the Galápagos Islands, with the -intention of procuring supplies of wood and tortoises, the latter -being a good remedy for scurvy. The first land made after leaving the -coast of Chili was the _rock_ of Dunda, which rises some hundreds of -feet above the level of the sea. Here the boats were lowered to catch -a species of fish that weighed about six pounds, and found in large -schools close in to the rock. With pieces of pork and white rags -greased, we caught in a few hours several barrels full, which were -taken on board the ship and salted down. While fishing, the mate caught -on his hook a large serpent, eight or nine feet in length, covered with -scales, and nearly as large as a man’s leg. It came into the boat with -severe struggles, during which it knocked the mate senseless, and two -Dutchmen, from fright, jumped into the sea. This rock is supposed to -have once belonged to the Galápagos, being in the same range, and, with -a fair wind, is but a few hours’ sail from the principal members of -that group. - -“The ship, which had been lying off and on, was now put before the -wind, and we steered for an uninhabited island of the Galápagos, called -Terrapin Island, and, when near it, a party of picked men were lowered -in the boats, with orders to collect all the wood and tortoise that -could be procured. The three boats’ crews, upon landing, found the -island to be composed of pumice-stone, probably thrown from a volcano -in its centre. Next the beach was a narrow strip of land, covered with -a light growth of wood, which did not extend forty rods inland; and -though immediate search was made for water, not a drop could be found. -One of the crew asserted that inland grew a stunted prickly pear, -and dwarf camphor tree. We were full of fun, and each boasted that -he know where to hunt for the largest tortoise; and a party of four, -including myself set out together, each promising to return with a -gigantic one. As we journeyed inland, the surface of the island became -more irregular, and was filled with deep cracks or chasms, the bottoms -of which, in many instances, could not be discerned. These fissures -descended far below the level of the sea; and, hoping to discover -fresh water, we descended into several, but they were all dry and warm -as ovens. The rocks around us were porous, and therefore must have -absorbed the water that fell when it rained, which, in these parts of -the world, is a rare occurrence. Among the rocks abounded a sort of -lizards, with long tails, called iguanas. - -“After wandering several miles and not meeting with tortoises, a -portion of the party concluded to ‘’bout ship’ and return, when a -dispute arose regarding the true direction to the bay where the ship -lay, and we parted, I following the course that appeared to be the -true one, while my three companions set out upon an entirely different -one. I continued on until the shades of evening enveloped the island, -and made the volcano look like a grim giant. Here I should have rested -until morning, as much suffering would have been prevented; but, -feeling confident that my course was right, I travelled on in the dark, -and, as I afterwards learned, passed the bay without being aware of its -proximity. At last, exhausted with walking, I lay down to sleep upon -the pumice-stone; but the heat was so great, that I was obliged to turn -from side to side with the torture it inflicted; for the sun’s heat -had been absorbed during the day by these rocks, and it was now given -off with an intensity that was truly astonishing. I lighted my pipe -and tried to forget my troubles; but, almost dying with thirst, and -scorched with the slow fire beneath me, the night wore heavily away. -When morning came, I examined my stock of matches, and found that three -remained, besides a little tobacco, and, carefully putting these in a -safe pocket, I directed my steps to the tall mountain, which appeared -to be but a few miles distant. By so doing, chance might favor me, as -the men had said, the previous day, that the prickly pear grew in the -interior; but my great object was to find water. - -“When the sun had reached the meridian, a pair of new double-soled -shoes, which I had on, were worn or burned through; I had found no -water, and the mountain appeared farther off than it did when I saw it -the previous morning. - -“Thanks to a good Providence, this misery was soon to be ended, at -least for a time; for while journeying along late in the afternoon, -with feet bleeding at every step, I espied a little green hill that -peeped above the rocks, and with renewed energy I pushed forward, and -sank fainting at its base. - -“I soon recovered from the exhaustion caused by my sufferings, and as -darkness came on, sleep overpowered and wrapped me in its embrace. It -was after midnight (so I judged by the height of the Southern Cross) -when I woke with a curious feeling caused by suffocation. Recalling -my scattered senses, I beheld a huge pair of jaws and two horrid eyes -close to my face, while a clawed foot rested upon each shoulder. I -trembled in every limb, but did not lose my self-possession; and now -I laugh to think that the cause of my trepidation was nothing more -than a harmless iguana--a large species of lizard. A single movement -of my body caused him to slide from his place and drag his ugly form -away; but he did not choose to end his antics here; several hours -he continued the annoyance, and determined to make the best of his -affectionate ways. I threw a piece of pumice-stone at him, and Mr. -Iguana lay senseless among the rocks. Cutting the reptile’s throat and -catching the blood in the heel of my dilapidated shoe, I drank it as if -it had been a beverage of cool milk. With refreshed vigor I ascended -the hill. It was covered with grass, and little trees resembling the -American beech grew upon it. Flocks of birds were flying about, and -their songs revived my spirits. - -“Commencing a search for water, I discovered a deep fissure, at the -bottom of which some shining substance attracted my attention, and -feeling certain that it was water, I descended into the chasm. Again -was I doomed to disappointment. A soft, damp mud covered the bottom, in -which hundreds of tiny tracks told me that birds had visited the spot, -and that the water which had fallen from the clouds had been drank -or absorbed by the soil. Had I been a student of natural history, an -hour could have been whiled away in the study of ornithichnites; but, -dropping all thoughts of science, I made balls of the mud and sucked -the moisture they contained, then climbed into the open air. The birds -were exceedingly tame, and suffered me to approach and knock them down -with a stick. In this I beheld the beneficence of Providence, for here -was food for many days. After killing several, I attempted to light a -fire with the three matches before mentioned. All three failed. I ate -two birds in a raw state, and went in search of an iguana to procure -more blood to quench my thirst. The sides of the hill were perforated -with the burrows of this animal, into which it crept, leaving the tail -outside. I caught hold of one lusty fellow’s appendage, but was too -weak to pull him out; he beat me from side to side, and I sat down upon -a rock in despair. - -“The next day, when about to leave the hill, a singular fact attracted -my attention. The birds left in flocks, and winging their way towards -the big mountain, returned in twenty or thirty minutes. - -“Following them for some time with my eyes, I concluded that it was -for water that they left the green hill; and carefully marking their -flight, I followed them; but, weak and exhausted, after travelling -nearly a mile across ridges that became more and more difficult to -surmount, it seemed advisable to return. An attempt to capture a young -iguana was successful, and this quenched my thirst, while a few birds’ -legs kept starvation at a distance. Another night’s rest revived my -courage, and I determined, come what might, to make one more effort -to reach the sea-coast. Another day’s travel being over, I slept upon -the pumice-stone a few miles from the hill. One more day of suffering, -and when Night spread her mantle over the island, I knew too well that -mental derangement was coming; but still one idea had possession of my -mind--Onward, onward! - -“I crossed a little ridge, and saw something white at its base; for -the moon had risen, and shed its light over the burning island of -pumice-stone. I lowered myself into a chasm, and examined it. My brain -became settled and attention fixed; and with horror I laid my hand upon -the skeleton of a man lying upon his face, with a large tortoise bound -to his back by a piece of ratlin. Poor fellow! he had, undoubtedly, -while making his way to his ship, missed his footing, and fallen in -such a way that he was wedged in and kept down by the great weight -upon his back: perhaps the fall itself killed him.” “But,” said I, -“why did not his captain send men to search for him?” “By asking such -a question, my friend,” begun Don Guillermo, “you show your ignorance -of the character of a captain of a whaler. Do you think, if the captain -wished to make sail, he would wait even _one_ day to seek for one of -his crew? If you wish to satisfy yourself on this point, try a voyage -in a New Bedford whaleship, and you will soon be assured that my -opinion is true.” - -Don Guillermo continued his narrative. - -“This affecting sight filled my mind with thoughts both joyful and -dismal--joyful, because I knew that the coast was at hand, for the -experience of the few days past had taught me that the tortoise does -not wander far inland--dismal, because it might be premonitive of -my own fate. With a giddy head I continued on my way. Of the events -which occurred from that time I have but a dim recollection. I faintly -remember wandering on for many hours, and sleeping upon the heated -rocks--the light of day coming again, when my journey was continued; -the sound of rushing waters--and then my vision became clearer. I -remember the white sandy beach that seemed covered with eggs, and the -ringing noise in my ears--the screaming of the sea-birds. All this -passed through my brain with the rapidity of lightning; then, rushing -frantically to the sea, I swallowed greedily large draughts of water. -The cove was filled with other swimmers, that gnashed and gritted -their teeth, as if mocking my suffering. They were, in reality, seals; -but, almost a maniac, I jumped about among them (so others afterwards -informed me), cutting all kinds of pranks; at which the whole school -retreated with fear. All then became a blank to me. - -“I was next aroused by the voices of people engaged in conversation, -together with the strong smell of liquors, and, opening my eyes, I -found myself in a comfortable berth in the cabin of a vessel, which, -by a perceptible motion, I knew to be under way. ‘He has come to,’ -said a rough voice; ‘there’s nothing like an internal as well as -external application of brandy.’ Two or three persons came to the -berth, and questioned me regarding my ‘island excursion.’ Their various -applications had restored my system to a comparative degree of vigor; -and, assisted by the second officer, I went on deck to behold the -shores of Terrapin Island sinking below the horizon. - -“The name of this vessel was Henry Astor; she was a Nantucket whaler, -and her captain, my deliverer from a melancholy fate, was Pinkham. I -would give his name in full, every letter of it, had not nearly sixteen -years of wandering obliterated it from my memory. - -“A few days’ sail brought us to the Marquesas Islands, and by that -time the sea air and good living had perfectly restored me to health, -and I was eager for new adventures. Our captain proposed remaining -here a few days, in order to procure fresh provisions, and trade was -commenced with the natives by bartering hoop-iron, knives, beads, &c., -in exchange for pigs, yams, cocoanuts, and other fruits. A small, -uninhabited island near by was resorted to by the islanders for -fishing, and our captain sent our boats to secure a supply for the men. -We met a party of natives with canoes on one side of the island, and we -became very friendly in our intercourse with them. - -“The boat returned to the ship without me, but conveyed a message -to the effect that I should not return. The reason for so doing was -satisfactory to the sailors. Our second officer was a Portuguese, and -a vile fellow. He so exasperated his watch while on the passage from -Terrapin Island, that they were now ripe for mutiny; and having no -interest in their affairs, I did not wish to be one of their number -longer. The Henry Astor would not return to North America for two or -three years, and homeward-bound vessels (whalers) sometimes touched at -the Marquesas. Thus, if I remained with the natives, there was a chance -of my being taken off by a better-omened ship than the one I had just -left. The next day a _pearler_ hove in sight, and ran close in to land. -I raised a signal, and was soon taken on board. The vessel steered -for Hiva-oa,[4] sometimes called Dominica, and commenced business -in good earnest. The natives were employed to dive for us in four or -five fathoms of water. In this they were very expert, and some of them -could remain four minutes under water. They swam off to our boats every -morning, and worked all day, receiving in payment for their labor -pieces of red flannel and bright-colored calico. - -“Strict orders were repeated to us every morning regarding our duties -for the day. We were forbidden to go within a certain distance of the -shore, as the natives were very treacherous, having captured and eaten -an English boat’s crew a short time before (1840 or ’41). Three days -passed very pleasantly, when, upon the fourth, word was given to be -diligent, as the vessel would sail for the coast of Japan with the -first fair wind. ‘What!’ exclaimed one of the boat’s crew to which I -belonged, ‘are we to leave without setting foot on Hiva-oa? Shiver my -timbers if I don’t go ashore to-morrow night, after work is done! and -the old man may send the whole ship’s company after me, if he likes.’ -To this expression the other two agreed, and, not wishing to be behind -my comrades, I consented also; and before retiring to sleep we had made -arrangements for a visit to the dreaded cannibal islands. - -“The next morning the boats’ crews commenced work as usual, and at -four bells in the afternoon returned to the ship. This was the time -agreed upon for carrying out our design. The natives, who were with us -during the day, had swam ashore, and disappeared among the cocoa-nut -groves, and the only living objects in sight were a party of women, -and two or three old men, the former engaged in various diversions, -and the latter sitting like statues near them. It was the custom of -these females to collect in groups near the sea-shore during the day, -and watch their husbands and lovers, who were hard at work diving -for the pearl-oyster; and taking advantage of this circumstance, -we came prepared for the party. Upon landing, we distributed from -our well-filled pockets various little presents, and were at once -treated with the greatest kindness. The looking-glass that we brought -filled them with astonishment, and Cram, a young Pennsylvanian, -was endeavoring to teach them the philosophy of it by all sorts of -gestures, when a low murmur caused us to look seaward; and lo! a long -line of men, the fathers, brothers, and lovers of the female party, -were advancing towards us, and as we hastily rose to depart, they -pointed towards the interior, and made signs for us to go inland. - -“Too late we perceived our boyish error; the boat had been secured, -and there was no chance for retreat, and sullenly we marched on in -advance of the islanders. All the way Cram grumbled at the fate that -might be ours. He blessed his top-lights, then cursed them, the women, -who followed, laughing all the while at his curious physiognomy. As we -drew near the end of a beautiful valley, in which the natives dwelt, -Cram felt quite at home, and remarked that it was not ‘much of any -consequence where a person lived. These fellows,’ said he, ‘have plenty -to eat, and don’t have to turn to every morning while in port, or every -watch when at sea. If the king here will give me his daughter, I will -settle down on a farm after swallowing my sheet anchor;’ and putting -a quid of tobacco in his mouth, he squirted the juice right and left -among the crowd, who became wild with mirth. - -“Thanks to our previous kind treatment to the islanders, upon arriving -at their village they gave us to understand that we should receive no -harm. We did not go through any trial, or appear before any council; -but by gestures they made known to us that each of our number could -choose a place of residence from among the two or three hundred -habitations in the valley. I fancied that of an old man, who must have -been, in his younger days, a great warrior, as his body was covered -with scars, and one longitudinal one, that, commencing upon his -forehead, and ending with the chin, excited my amazement, for the skull -had evidently been split by some weapon, from the effects of which he -sometimes labored under temporary insanity. At Cram’s suggestion, we -christened him ‘Old Split Head.’ The three other sailors were quartered -in habitations near my own, and for a few days we lived contentedly -enough, every wish being anticipated and satisfied by these kind people. - -“One morning, about a week after our capture, while talking together, -the conversation was suddenly interrupted by the booming of cannon, and -we arose to go down to the beach, but were prevented by our captors. -Report after report followed, and echoed among the hills that divided -the island into separate parts. I was convinced by these sounds that -our ship had got under way, and was exercising her two or three rusty -guns for our benefit. But what seemed stranger than all was, that -these reports came from the opposite side of the island, and from an -entirely different direction from her former anchorage. Cram laughed -at my opinions, and harangued the other two after this fashion: ‘He -says that it’s our craft that’s making all that noise. I’ll sell myself -for a sea-cook if it isn’t one of those parlez-vous French men-o’-war -that’s come along, and heard that we are among this confounded set. -Now, shipmates, what say you? Here we have been loafing about like a -set of lobster marines, doing nothing, nor serving mankind, and it’s -a certain fact that we have got to be laid up here until we get away. -Now, I, for one, am heartily tired of this wasting of energies; and -as for living here listening to these cocoa-nut eaters, who expect to -tattoo us into Davy Jones’s locker, I won’t; so come along. We can make -a straight course across those big hills yonder, and then hurrah for -Johnny Crapo’s boats. If you will all start, I’ll agree to steer my -trick to-night, if it _is_ aboard a French man-o’-war. The two sailors -were overpowered by Cram’s eloquence, and swore roundly that they would -follow him, if he set out instantly. - -“Now, all the while the natives had been watching us, and when -the orator, during his speech, pointed to the hills, they at once -comprehended their prisoners’ intentions, and, coming forward, an old -man, better dressed than the others, gave us to understand, through -signs, that upon the other side of the mountain dwelt other savages, -who were their enemies. Nothing daunted, Cram and his associates set -out for the mountain, followed by a party of islanders, who continued -expostulating with them until they reached its base. - -“The old man, whom I now took to be the chief, in an authoritative -manner, despatched a second party but Cram and the other two showed -fight, and, rolling down large stones upon the chiefs men, prevented -them from advancing. As the three reckless fellows neared the summit -of the mountain, they were watched with intense interest by the people -below. A few minutes more, and they had disappeared on the other side, -where they met the savages of whom they had been warned, who drove them -back, fighting with great fury. The men in our village ran for their -arms, and a loud shout resounded throughout the valley. Twice I started -to join in the affray; but those near me prevented my departure. The -fight lasted about fifteen minutes, and was ended by the death of the -white men, my companions. The captors retired to their own territory, -while I wept for the first time since leaving my native land. I was -but just nineteen years of age, and was, perhaps, a prisoner for life, -destined to live apart from my countrymen. I had been nurtured in -refinement, and trained under the holy influence of a mother’s prayers; -and now a most miserable life was before me, indolence and barbarity. - -“The fate of my friends was a cruel one. The natives around the base -of the mountain saw them fight bravely until overpowered by superior -numbers, when one by one the three sailors were felled to the earth. -Cram was seen struggling with an islander until another native, with -his spear, broke the poor fellow’s jaw, and he was obliged to surrender. - -“About noon the next day came a deputation from the people of the -territory behind the mountains to make peace with our ‘Tehoke’ -(principal chief), which caused a great palaver among our natives. To -appease our chief, a gift was presented him by the committee. It was -rolled up in cocoa-nut leaves, the first layer of which was green, -as if just gathered from the trees. While they slowly unrolled the -present, the natives clustered around it, and as wrapper after wrapper -fell to the ground, a sight was disclosed that caused me to shudder. -It was a fitting present from cannibals, the leg of poor Cram, browned -from the effects of fire. I identified the limb by means of a tattooed -ring upon the calf, that still retained the original color. But this -gift, instead of soothing the ire of the haughty ‘Tehoke,’ produced -an entirely different effect; for he called a council, and, after -a palaver, the cannibal committee were dismissed, and war formally -declared. The islanders were wild with excitement, and I was made to -sing, in the midst of the rabble, a grand _hoolo-hoolo_, and to dance, -which I did to the music of a drum, made by stretching human skin -across the ends of a short, hollow log. - -“At dawn on the following day, an army of nearly three hundred men -ascended the mountain, and disappeared over the summit. - -“The day of battle was one of nature’s loveliest. The rays of the sun, -with trembling light, pierced the dense foliage of the groves around -the absent warriors’ homes, and sparkled upon the cool streams of water -meandering along the valley, and falling in little cascades among the -rocks. It would seem a time and place for quiet thoughts and pious -meditation. But my mind was not in a fit state to appreciate the beauty -that reposed around me. I wandered through the valley, thinking of my -curious situation, of the strange beings who were my companions, and -my isolation from civilization. I thought of the happy American home -that I had left, and my memory went back to a beautiful Sabbath morning -(the day prior to my departure from home), when, taking the hand of my -sister, I led her to a little wood behind the house, and there she sang -to me a song, the words of which have since rung in my ears, through -all my wanderings, over sea and land, and have kept me from the errors -that have caused the downfall of thousands. - -“Perched upon the top of a coca-nut tree, Old Split Head kept on -the lookout for news. Beyond him another dark head peeped above the -foliage, and still nearer the mountain another and another native could -be seen. This was a telegraphic line of communication. - -“Soon after the natives had disappeared over the mountain, the reports -of a few muskets, obtained from the English boat’s crew that was -captured some months before, together with distant shouts, told me that -the game was up. After this, a long silence caused me to doubt as to -who were the victors, for I believed that if our party were successful, -they would return quickly with what booty could be obtained. - -“About four o’clock in the afternoon, a courier appeared on the brow -of the mountain, and a telegraphic message came quickly to Old Split -Head, who was beside me at the door. Now, as my guardian attempted to -communicate the intelligence to me, he became so excited that he could -do nothing more than jump high in the air, roll over and over upon the -ground and shake his long spear at a tree. He then caught me by the -arm, and led me to the beach, where the army arrived, an hour after, in -six large war-canoes, each holding about fifty rowers. These canoes, -together with three men, and many pigs and weapons, had been captured -during the engagement. The three captive warriors lay bound in the -bottom of the boat, and were unable to move hand or foot. - -“Now commenced a great hoolo-hoolo, during which I was embraced by the -Tehoke in presence of the multitude. The three prisoners were removed -to a little square formed by a wall of stones, and left under a guard -for the night, and I was informed that upon the next day I should -receive a high _taboo_. This is a mark of distinction and privilege, -differing according to the grade or class of the taboo--some causing -the person tabooed to stand above those who have a low mark upon them. -This favor is only given to men; the women do not receive it, and are, -therefore, in one sense, slaves to their husbands. The next morning -the Tehoke performed the process of tabooing, by passing over my head -a piece of _tappa_ (native cloth), and pronouncing several words not -comprehended by me. After this the Tehoke presented me with two wives, -one of whom was his own daughter, and Split Head, with two ingenious -fellows, built in the course of the day a new habitation, in which I -was to dwell. - -“Now came the hour in which the prisoners taken during the battle were -to meet their doom. They were seized by a party of natives, and each -one placed erect, with his back against a cocoa-nut tree. Around the -neck of the victim, and trunk of the tree, was wound a short piece of -native rope, and a stick being placed in the bight, it was turned -around several times, until the tongue protruded from the mouth, and -the prisoner was dead. Deep holes were dug and lined with stones, upon -which a large fire was kindled, and allowed to continue burning until -the stones were very hot. The ashes and sticks were raked out, and the -bodies of the prisoners, which had been previously wrapped in many -layers of cocoa-nut leaves, were laid in the cavities, and hot stones -placed upon them. There was no chance of straying from the spot, as I -sat close by the Tehoke; but I sickened and my head grew dizzy at the -horrid sight. The horrors of a cannibal feast I will not describe. -Suffice it to say that the natives became in my eyes as wild animals -devouring prey. - -“I now led a more agreeable life than I had formerly enjoyed, that -is to say, if enjoyment consists in having a mind free from care or -trouble. Before the taboo had been placed upon me, there were times -when some of the natives attempted great freedom with my person, and -were a source of trouble to me. Now I lived as the chief’s son-in-law, -and as a person of distinction, as I possessed a high taboo. I was -ingenious, and by repairing the old flint-lock muskets of the chief, -took a new stand as a man of superior endowment. As month after month -passed away, I became more accustomed to my situation, and felt, at -times, almost contented with my lot. I began to acquire the language, -and took part in the councils of the chiefs, where my word was valued. -During all this time I passed but one ordeal, that of _tattooing_. I -was taken by force from my dwelling, and, being laid upon my back, -underwent an operation, the effects of which I shall carry with me to -the grave.” - -So saying, Don Guillermo divested himself of his shirt, and there were -visible upon his breast two curious specimens of Marquesian tattooing. -“This figure, on my left side,” said he, “is intended to represent the -moon, while the one on the right is the sun.” Upon his thighs and arms -were other figures equally curious as those upon his breast. He then -continued: “Once I was dragged out to be ornamented upon the face; but -I struggled and begged so hard to escape from the hands of the artists, -that Old Split Head, whose influence was considerable, interceded -with the islanders, and I was permitted to go free. Having acquired -the dialect, the natives placed more confidence in me than they had -previously done, and I walked along the sea-coast two or three times a -week with the hope of seeing a vessel. Once or twice I descried ships -in the distance, but was doomed again and again to disappointment, as -they did not approach the island; and for eleven long, weary months, -did I remain a prisoner among the cannibals of Hiva-oa. - -“In conversing with the islanders, they had often spoken of a -foreigner, who, by some accident, had been a resident among them. They -called him Oorie, and though I questioned them regarding his escape, -they would not give me any clew by means of which I could ascertain the -method he used to obtain his freedom. I afterwards comforted myself by -believing that as _one_ person had been taken off the island, another -might meet with the same good fortune; and from the time I received the -above information, my eyes were always gazing over the surface of the -ocean for a glimpse of a distant sail. - -“As the eleventh month of my life among the cannibals drew to its -close, a whaler from North America dropped anchor in the little bay, -and almost in the same spot where, nearly a year before, I had gazed -with admiration upon the tropical scenery of my new island home, the -prison-ground that debarred me from civilization. The rare event of -a ship visiting Hiva-oa threw its inhabitants into a state of great -excitement, some of whom were for having me closely guarded, while -others, too much occupied in getting ready their fruits for a market, -only laughed and shouted to increase the confusion that everywhere -prevailed. During the hubbub and clamor of voices, I conversed with -some of the females, whose ideas of a ship and the uses to which one is -applied, were of the most primitive kind. ‘Where does the great monster -live, and from what country does it travel?’ they asked, gazing at the -same time eagerly into my face, as if expecting to receive an incorrect -reply. ‘It comes from my own country, which is a long way off’, I -answered. To this one young girl gravely responded, ‘Then your home is -in the clouds, for this thing (the ship) rains down; we have seen the -same before two or three times.’ - -“The men swam off to the vessel, and, while absent, I endeavored to -persuade some of the chiefs to allow me to go upon the same errand the -next day; but in this I was unsuccessful. They sternly objected to my -appeals, and, urged to desperation, I projected an escape, but was -twice foiled in the attempt. - -“The second night after the whaler arrived, I left the hut before the -islanders arose from their slumbers, and, though my movements had been -watched, I reached a branch of the valley stream, and, wading along -its course up to my chin in water, soon entered the sea, and boldly -struck out for the vessel that lay at her anchorage. - -“The man who had the anchor watch saw the gleam of light in my wake, -caused by the displacement of the water, for the moon was high in -the heavens, and the smallest object could be easily distinguished. -Thinking I was a savage on a predatory excursion, he called the mate, -who in turn aroused the captain. A rope was thrown to me, and half -an hour after leaving my hut of canes and cocoa-nut boughs, I was -surrounded by a half-naked group of down-east greenhorns, who kindly -presented me with a suit of clothes, in place of my island one of tappa. - -“The next morning, the master of the whaler, Captain Brown, thinking -that my escape might exasperate the natives, mast-headed the topsail -yards, and heaved short our cable, to be in readiness to leave in the -afternoon, at the moment the heavens gave indications of a breeze. -While these preparations were under way, Old Split Head came down the -beach, and loudly shouted my name. To prove his affection for me, I did -not answer his call; whereupon he danced about for some time, clutching -his hair, and then rolling upon the sand, appearing to be in hysterics. - -“Towards three o’clock came the wished-for breeze, and with it the -order to ‘fill away the topsails.’ Springing to the sheets, a party -of us hauled them home, while others heaved up the anchor, and as we -slowly stretched away from Hiva-oa, I breathed a prayer of thanks for -my safe deliverance. The long line of natives upon the beach, at sight -of our departure, could restrain themselves no longer, for above forty -threw themselves into the sea, and followed after us like a school of -porpoises. I threw out a rope for Old Split Head, and the rapidity with -which he ascended the ship’s side drew many remarks of admiration from -the sailors, who declared that ‘no salt could have done it better.’ -The instant he touched the deck he embraced me, and, refusing to be -comforted, pointed over the ship’s side at one of my wives, who was -_treading water_, and softly uttered her name many times--‘Cuahoo! -Cuahoo!’ Captain Brown gave the old fellow several pieces of red -flannel, and a few pounds of tobacco, and, rolling the latter in the -cloth, he lashed the bundle to his head, and with a long, tearful -embrace, we parted. - -“This was the last time I saw Old Split Head, who was the truest and -best friend I ever had; and many times since we parted, when amid -trials and sufferings, my thoughts have turned to our little hut -beneath the cocoa-nut grove, where so many hours had been passed in -his company, savage though he was; and I have regretted leaving that -romantic island. Then reason and the voice of duty have said, ‘You -were born among civilized people, and it is your duty to act manfully -against vicissitudes; but to live a life of ease and pleasure, -surrounded by things that injure rather than strengthen the noble -faculties of the soul, is sinful, and is not in accordance with the -principles of truth and of the Bible.’ - -“From Hiva-oa a breeze wafted us into Talcahuano, the port of -Concepcion, Chili, where I remained for some months, working at -different trades, in nearly all of which I was able to compete with -the native workmen. I could relate to you many interesting stories -of the Araucanian Indians, who occupy the south of Chili, and often -come to Concepcion to barter their ponchos, mantas, &c., for English -articles; but having occupied much of your time, I shall draw my -narrative to a close as soon as possible. - -“While residing in Chili, I made the acquaintance of two young men, -who, having visited Juan Fernandez, spoke encouragingly of the chances -that existed for making money upon that island. And they proposed that -we should purchase a boat and repair to the island, where thousands of -goats run wild, and there pass a few months in securing the skins of -these animals, after which we were to sail to Masafuero, an adjacent -island, where there were a large number of seals. - -“I had earned by this time a sufficient sum of money to accept of -their offer, and they being supplied with like amounts, we purchased a -large whale boat, a stock of provisions, and three dogs, besides guns, -ammunition, and all the accessories necessary to insure success to our -enterprise. We bargained with the captain of a vessel that was about -leaving Talcahuano for a sperm whale cruise, to leave us to ourselves -when the ship hove in sight of Juan Fernandez, near which his course -lay. One thing more was yet to be done; we had no person to do the -drudgery of preparing and cooking our food. Our choice, therefore, -fell upon a stout negro, called Pedro, who was fluent in the use of -the English and Spanish languages, and for a low sum we secured his -services. - -“The ship put to sea with a gentle breeze one fine morning, and early -on the fourth day the rough peaks of the island were seen above the -horizon. - -“Preparations commenced immediately for disembarkation. Our little -craft was launched, the masts stepped, her cargo carefully adjusted, -and quickly tumbling in our dogs and Pedro, we bade adieu to the whaler. - -“Though the breeze blew fresh at the time we left the ship, and our -party spread every stitch of canvas, it was not until night set in -that our boat grounded amid the surf upon the white sandy beach of the -romantic Robinson Crusoe island, and we all crawled on shore drenched -with spray to the skin. - -“A few days after, a hut was completed, and our party commenced -business in good earnest; and while the three whites were occupied -in capturing the goats, the black, Pedro, officiated as cook and -housekeeper in our little dwelling. Among the cliffs the goats -scampered about singly and in little parties. It was our object to -concentrate all stragglers, and driving them into some little nook or -valley, from which there was no escape, we shot them down, or, when -practicable, captured them with the lasso. In collecting the stray -goats into parties, we were greatly assisted by our dogs, which had -been trained for the purpose. - -“When the animals abounded in places where the valleys were large -and did not afford opportunities for capturing them, we built stone -enclosures, and in them intrapped large numbers. To capture and skin -thirty goats was considered no more than a good day’s labor for each -man. Thus our pile of skins towered higher each day, and promised us a -little fortune when we should dispose of them on the continent. - -“While enjoying this success, a distant sail was distinguished one -afternoon by Pedro, who ran out of his domicile to inform us of the -welcome fact. The following day our hut was honored by the presence of -one of South America’s best and greatest children, the patriotic and -learned Don Domingo F. Sarmiento, who, having been sent abroad, by the -government of Chili, to visit different portions of the world, to gain -information of superior customs, with the intention of introducing such -as were practicable to that republic on his return, had first called at -this island, which belongs to that government. - -“Though sent upon such a commission, Sarmiento was not a Chileno by -birth, but had resided in Chili some years, having been exiled from his -native country, the Argentine Republic, by the tyrannical Rosas, who -was ever uneasy when a philanthropist or scholar was within the land -over which he stretched his arm of iron and bathed his hands in the -blood of her people. It is unnecessary for me to give you an account -of the stay of this great man upon the island; suffice it to say, we -became very intimate, he sleeping nine successive nights upon my bed -of goat-skins; and when I visited him in Chili, after his return from -Europe and North America, he presented me with a copy of his travels, -‘_Viages de Sarmiento_,’ in which you will find the particulars of -the visit. Before General Rosas was driven out of office and country, -Sarmiento himself had crossed the Cordillera and Pampas, and was -fighting against the army of the tyrant; and while on a visit to him, -he said, handing me a trusty sword, ‘Don Guillermo, your ingenuity is -remarkable. I have not been able to clean this instrument. Will you -oblige me by removing from it all traces of rust?’ He then reached his -hand above an _escritorio_, and as he held out another weapon, a smile -playing upon his noble features, he said, ‘My friend, this sword you -need not clean; I shall keep it as a memorial; for upon its surface -are blood-stains from the heart of a tyrant, who would have been like -Rosas, had not I, while in the engagement, sought him out and thrust -my trusty steel through his heart. Now I can go back to the Argentine -Republic and to freedom, for the tyrant and his _Masorca_[5] have been -driven from their stronghold, and their dread influence is at an end.’ - -“After remaining some few months on Juan Fernandez and the neighboring -Masafuero, a whaler arrived and took off our company with their -property. Before the ship left the island, according to a promise I had -made to Sarmiento, I cut his name deep in a ledge of rock, where it can -be seen at the present day. - -“Welcome was the first sight of the main land after months spent upon -a small island. When we reached Valparaiso, to our dismay the price of -goat-skins and furs had fallen, and in place of receiving the expected -several thousand dollars in return for my goods, I quietly pocketed -six hundred dollars, and swallowed my disappointment. The goat-skins -brought one real (12¹⁄₂ cents), and in some cases two reals each, while -the seals commanded from three to six reals. - -“Not caring to follow a roving life any longer, I proceeded to the -capital of Chili, the beautiful Santiago, and for a time found -entertainment in pursuing various trades. About this time I made the -acquaintance of a young artist from North America. Troubles had driven -him, like myself, from a good home, and, being often together, our -attachment became such that it was spoken of by every one. One evening, -as we walked arm in arm along the Tauamar, and near Fort Santa Lucia, -he pointed in the direction of a nunnery, and said, ‘Within those walls -is a young lady that I would have married long ago, but her parents, -despising one they were pleased to call a _gringo_, placed her in that -building, fearing that she might elope with her lover to some other -part of the country. Once or twice I have received letters from her, -and, like myself, she does not care to live longer, and unless we can -be united soon, nothing but the death of the suicide is left to me.’ -I was greatly affected at this disclosure, which only served to bind -our friendship still stronger. I was not the only friend from whom the -young artist could draw sympathy. A daring North American, armed with -a Colt’s revolver and a fine key-hole saw, repaired one dark night to -the nunnery, scaled its walls, and tearing off the tiles, cut a hole -through the porous wood-roof, and took from the praying-room the young -betrothed, who had made a vow to her conjuror to resort to that place -each night to pray until her prayers were answered, but in a very -different manner than the priest would have wished, had he known the -blessing asked for. - -“The next day the lovers were united, and bade me farewell forever. -Before the _vigilantes_ were summoned to retake the couple or arrest -the perpetrator of the deed, against whom injured Catholicism raised a -loud cry, the bride and bridegroom, mounted on fleet horses, were on -their way to Bolivia, where they are now probably residing. - -“It was proved that, at the time of the rescue, our countryman, the -artist, was in some other place; and being his friend, and known to be -ingenious, I was pointed out as the culprit. People became excited, -and while the _vigilantes_ were about, a trusty friend brought me two -horses, and volunteering to become my travelling companion, we set out -for the Argentine Republic, that lay on the eastern side of the Andes. -The Uspallata and Portillo passes were watched, and nothing remained -but to follow down the valley of Tupungato to the Planchon Pass. -Without sustenance for our animals, and but a small supply of food, -we commenced a journey that the old _arrieros_ themselves would have -turned back from. The lofty sides of the mountains hemmed us in, and we -followed on, day after day, until our horses died, and we were on the -point of starvation. At last we reached the Planchon, which is close -upon Patagonia, and crossing this flat mountain, which is composed -of light gravel, resembling snuff in color and fineness of grain, we -came upon a little fort, from which a few soldiers ran on seeing us, -shouting, ‘The Indians! the Indians!’ We left them after quieting their -fears and receiving a little food. - -“The next day two Indians approached, and uttered repeatedly the word -‘_amite_’ (friend). They kindly undertook to guide us to Mendoza, a -town that lay one hundred and eighty leagues to the north. These two -savages captured with their _boliadores_ several ostriches and one -or two guanacos, upon the flesh of which we feasted. When within two -days of the town, our guides pointed out the true direction for us to -follow, and, shaking hands with them, we parted. - -“Upon arriving in Mendoza I found employment for a while, but, not -liking the place, went north to San Juan, while my friend returned to -Chili. And here I have lived for nine years, having been married for -the last six or seven to the daughter of Don ----, an old soldier, who -has fought in the battles of the revolutions which spring up every few -years in this province.” - -Alter returning to North America, I wrote many letters of inquiry for -the benefit of Don Guillermo. Several of these letters were answered. -Others, probably, never reached the destinations for which they were -intended. - -I found that a portion of my friend’s family were still living, and -their heartfelt letters to me amply repaid the exertions I had made to -discover their residences. The history of Don Guillermo has a touch of -romance about it. One person wrote as follows: “F. D----g (the father -of Don G.) was a younger son of the high chamberlain to the King of -Saxony, and as his elder brother took the office and title of his -father, he, F., took to the army, as is usual in that country, and, -just before the close of our revolutionary war, came to New York as -major of a regiment of Hessians. After peace was declared, he remained, -and married a wealthy lady,” &c., &c. - -Thus much regarding his parentage. The cause that drove him from the -land that he even now adores, remains a secret with the few in whose -breasts it will be sure of a safe keeping. - -From another quarter I received the following lines, which were -written by the cooper of the Henry Astor, who took charge of the ship -on her homeward passage: “In looking over my journal of notes of that -voyage, I have not mentioned the coming on board of the young man (Don -Guillermo) at Galápagos Islands; but on the 7th of October, 1842, I -have merely mentioned that we lost, by desertion, while at Dominica -(one of the Marquesas Islands), a boy. The particulars of which I -recorded in the ship’s log book. - -“The particulars of his coming on board, or of his leaving, have passed -from me, and I could wish that many other occurrences of that eventful -voyage might. H. C.” - -Letters from Nantucket inform me that the log-book of the Henry -Astor was lost in the great fire of 1846. The captain’s private -journal, brought home by Mr. C., the cooper of the ship, contains -the information desired. “A Scotch boy, by the name of James Walker -(assumed name), deserted the ship at the Isle of Dominica, one of the -Marquesas, on the 8th day of October, 1842; and they had good reason to -believe that he was enticed away from the ship.” - -Not having seen the captain’s journal, I cannot learn anything -relative to the men who accompanied Don Guillermo when he left the -vessel. I have added these few facts, thinking that they might be -interesting to the relatives of Don Guillermo, who are now able to -carry on a correspondence with him. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[4] Hiva-oa is about seventy miles south-west of Nukuheva, the island -upon which Mr. Herman Melville, the author of “Typee,” passed four -months among the islanders. - -[5] The Masorca was a club of three hundred men, organized by Rosas to -cut the throats of his political foes and defenseless citizens, who -would not succumb to his tyrannical sway. - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - CROSSING THE ANDES. - - -While the fig, the olive, and the orange trees were clothed in green, -and vast herds of cattle from the great pampas were arriving, to be -fattened in the clover-fields, the mountains still remained covered -with snow, and impassable, save to the trained courier. Still I had -seen all that rendered San Juan attractive, and a longing to return to -my own country came so strongly upon me, that I determined to risk a -passage to Chili at the earliest possible moment. - -It was only when my intentions became known that I was made aware of -the numbers and kindly feelings of my San Juan friends; for so many -were interested in my welfare, and warned me so earnestly of the danger -of the journey, and attempted to receive from me the promise that I -would remain with them, at least until the snow had disappeared, that -I could not but feel I had indeed fallen in with some of the truly -hospitable and generous peoples that here and there are scattered -over the world, making it, as do the oases in the desert, not all a -dreariness. - -I learned from these friends that the northern passes that led to -Copiapo and Coquimbo were buried in the snow, and that, on the -first-named road, a party of eight _arrieros_, while lately attempting -to cross into Chili, had been frozen to death. The Coquimbo road was -said to be equally as bad, for there eleven experienced guides had just -fallen victims to a fierce snow storm in the valleys of the Andes. The -two southern passes of Uspallata and Portillo were more elevated than -the two northern ones, but were much shorter. The Portillo could not be -passed by man. The mail road of Uspallata was the one fixed upon by me -as the most practicable; and though the courier reported the loss of -two young Chilenos, who probably had been swept away by the mountain -torrent, I believed that, having been reared in a New England climate, -whose winters are rigorous, I could bear the hardships of the cold -better than the native guides themselves. - -While I was contemplating an early start, an old man called, and -requested permission to give an account of his sufferings, he having -attempted the passage of the Cordilleras a few days before. - -“We started,” he said, “with every prospect of success. The weather had -been settled for several days, and with our mules we left the outer -sierra, and penetrated far into the mountains. But good fortune did -not remain the same, for suddenly a great _temporal_ came flying from -the south, and enveloped us for many hours in its terrible folds. The -snow fell in _clouds_, and I, of all my party, escaped; my companions -are frozen in the drifts, and there they will remain until the melting -of the snow. Look at my hands; all of the fingers were frozen, and -also my cheeks and nose. _No, señor. Norte Americano, no pasa vd. la -Cordillera!_” - -The poor old guide was in a pitiful condition; but, undoubtedly, had -he been twenty years younger, he would have fared better. I confess -that this news, with the entreaties of my friends, forced me to -postpone crossing the mountains until a later date. I consented to -remain, and for several weeks tried to content myself; but when four -weeks had passed, I became resolved, and packing my notes, and a few -specimens of natural history, in my canvas bag, I announced to my -friends my firm determination of leaving the country. - -Don Guillermo, on seeing that I was in earnest, ordered his peon to -lasso my horse, and bring him to the corral, and made every preparation -for my comfort in the journey that his inventive skill could suggest. - -On Saturday, November 10 (the last spring month of that latitude), I -bade adieu to the family, and started on the road to the city. Don -Guillermo accompanied me to the river, that was swollen by the floods -from the valleys of the Andes, and went roaring along its course -with a fearful rapidity. At the banks of the torrent my friend bade -me farewell, charging me to be faithful to the promise I had made -him, namely, that I would endeavor to find out the residence of his -surviving relations, whom he had left sixteen years before in North -America, during which time he had not heard one word of their welfare -or whereabouts. I promised again, and said farewell, and left him; -it was necessary for me to cross the river, and I at once spurred my -horse into the torrent, and began to ford; fortunately, the animal was -sure-footed and strong, and we landed safely on the opposite shore. - -I passed most of the next day at a friend’s house, within the limits -of the town, and at dusk rode out to the post-house, and presented a -letter of introduction to the proprietor, a garrulous old don, whose -good entertainment for man and beast had made his house a favorite -resort for travellers. The don read my letter, and declared that I -should remain with him for some time, as it was impossible to cross -to Chili. The next day, Don Carlos Leon Rodriquez, minister to the -province of San Luis, attended by a priest, both of whom were on -their way to the town, stopped at the _posta_, and corroborated the -statement of the _guardo_. The former gentleman offered to present me -with letters to his friends in Mendoza, if I preferred going to that -town, and remaining until the passage across the mountains was sure and -free from all difficulties. Considering that we had never met before, -the kind proposal proved still further to me the hospitable feelings -that the educated people of the Argentine Republic bear towards North -Americans. - -I had intended to continue my journey as a pedestrian across the -Andes, but it seemed necessary to take with me some beast to serve as -pack-animal, to carry my small collection of specimens, blankets, &c., -to the port of Valparaiso, As it might become necessary to abandon -the animal along the road, I selected a specimen of horse-flesh which -would have afforded a student of anatomy easy facilities for osseous -examinations, without removing the hide. - -During the forenoon I bade _adios_ to my new acquaintances, and with -one end of my lasso in my hand, and the other fastened to the bridle of -my horse, I led the way, on foot, happy in feeling that I had fairly -commenced the last stage of my journey towards the Pacific. - -Taking a south-westerly course across the desert, I travelled until -three o’clock over the same dreary waste, when a deep fissure was -observed in the sierra, which I entered, and soon found myself within -the Flecha. Before passing this peculiar gap, a word or two regarding -it may prove interesting. For many leagues along its course the sierra -presents an impassable barrier to man or beast. The Flecha is a narrow -passage from the desert on the east to the valley on the western side. -The sides of the Flecha are of solid rock, rising perpendicularly to a -great height. - -The pass exhibits the action of water upon its sides, for the rock has -been worn smooth in past ages, and the bed of the passage is covered -with pebbles. Undoubtedly, a long time since, a strong body of water -found its way through this place, and may have submerged the plain -below; but whether this gap was the bed of a natural stream, or mere -vent, through which the melting snow escaped during the spring months, -cannot now be well determined. The effect that the lofty sides of the -Flecha have upon independent objects is very curious. My horse seemed -to dwindle to the size of a Shetland pony when I removed a few yards -from him, and two muleteers, who passed through at the same time, -looked like pygmies. - -Half way up the precipice were holes, said to have been cut by the -ancient discoverers of the country, to assist in searching for precious -metals, but, proving unprofitable, had been abandoned. I continued -along the valley until dusk, when the barking of dogs, and occasional -glimpses of a light, guided me to one side of the valley, where a few -huts constitute the hamlet of El Durazno. These huts were inhabited by -muleteers, who suffered greatly from poverty. Here and there the rough -soil had been levelled, so as to be susceptible of irrigation, and a -few patches of clover gave a cheering aspect, when contrasted with the -barren mountains behind the hamlet. An old woman invited me to enter -her house, and pass the night, as it was damp outside, and the heavy -clouds that hovered about us looked as if about to descend. - -The hut was built of sticks and mud, and adjoining it was the kitchen. - -Having turned my horse adrift, I entered, and, as I reclined upon a -skin couch, commenced inquiring of the hostess relative to the snow on -the main Cordillera. I was unable, however, to obtain any information -from that source. Our party was soon increased by the entry of several -rude-looking fellows, armed with long knives. The place was so small -that we reclined, packed one against the other, men, women, and -children, promiscuously. The old woman commenced cooking an _asado_ -upon the fire; it had hardly begun to splutter and crackle, when the -dog that had sat beside the fire caught up the meat in his mouth, and -commenced masticating it with great _gusto_. The woman, screaming out, -“_O, sus Ave Maria!_” made a clutch at the dog, but was unsuccessful in -recovering the prize. One of the men caught the animal by the throat, -and choked him until the meat was drawn from his mouth, when, with -a hasty “_Ha, perro!_” it was returned to the fire, and cooked for -the lookers-on. More men and dogs came in, and, thinking it best to -retreat while it remained in my power to do so, I requested my hostess -to allow me to retire. Taking a saucer of fat, in which a bit of rag -was burning, she led the way into the other shanty, and assisted in -spreading my saddle cloths upon a rough sofa, built of boards, which -had been placed in the middle of the floor to prevent the approach of -the _binchucas_ that were secreted in the crevices in the walls. - -These uncomfortable disturbers of night dreams are as large as the -common May beetle, and are armed with a bill resembling that of a -mosquito, which is used with great effect upon the victim. Before -fixing upon a person, the body of the _binchuca_ is thin and flat; but -after his feast is over, he is bloated and disgusting to look upon. -As this tormentor is many times larger than the mosquito, so does the -irritability caused by its leeching process exceed in like proportion -that of the other pest. - -When about to withdraw from the room, the woman bade me sleep with the -utmost confidence, and not fear any harm. But as the conversation of -the men in the kitchen had been about the _plata_ that might be in my -possession, I was very particular to impress her with the idea that -North Americans feared nothing; and at the same time I drew a long -knife from under my _poncho_, and placed it beneath the sheep skin that -was to serve for my bed. When she withdrew, I lay down; but as I had -a thought of the _binchucas_ before I prepared for sleep, I carefully -rolled myself in my blankets, Indian fashion, and defied them to do -their worst. - -Hardly had I begun to doze, when a sensation of something disagreeable, -touching me, aroused me to the fact that the vile pests were coming -from every quarter of the hovel. I could hear them crawling up the -sides of the room and across the ceiling, when with their usual degree -of impudence, one after another dropped plump upon my body. But my -swathing clothes served as an armor, and they could not enter in to -the feast. All the while they clung with considerable tenacity to the -coarse blankets, trying to effect an entrance, but they had met their -conqueror; for, after waiting until the swarming was over, and the -army had fairly camped upon me, I suddenly and carefully rolled over -and over upon the sofa, until the life was forced out of nearly all of -them, when, being satisfied that a great victory had been achieved, I -dropped into a deep slumber. - -When morning came, and I passed out of the hut, I found that the valley -was filled with mist, and I deferred setting out until the thick -clouds had scattered. About nine o’clock a breeze sprang up, which -soon cleared the valley of mists, and I resumed my journey. Soon after -my leaving El Durazno, the valley expanded into a plain of a desert -character. The country between the mountains again became undulating -and broken; at three leagues from the last hamlet, El Sequion, a -collection of two or three mud houses and several ranchos, appeared. - -From one of these ranchos a _China_ (half Indian) woman came out, and -questioned me as to my motives for travelling alone, on foot, in the -desolate valley. When I spoke of crossing the Cordillera, the good -creature lifted both her hands, and exclaimed in colloquial Spanish, -“_Por Dios_, don’t go any farther. A man from Chili stopped here the -other day--his mouth and cheeks were like a soft peach with the frost!” -Another woman joined us, and declared that I was too young to be so far -from home, and questioned me to the effect “if my mother knew that I -was out.” In their inquiries, however, they exhibited a kindness that -to me was very gratifying, and I felt that in case of accident upon the -road, I had at least two friends near at hand. - -Beyond the Sequion, the valley grew narrower, and in places was so -filled with stones and detritus as to lame the old horse. The road now -became a mere defile, the steep sides of the sierras towering above it -to a great height, their bareness being sometimes relieved by dwarf -cacti, that grew in crevices where soil had lodged; these plants were -in flower, some white, others of a yellow hue. - -The clouds again enveloped the mountains, and while I was groping -along over the broken rock, the tinkling of a mule’s bell broke the -stillness, and a moment later I came upon a circle of pack-saddles -and mules’ cargoes, lying upon the ground. A deep voice called out, -“Come here, friend;” and I was soon acquainted with the capataz and -muleteers of Don Fernando de Oro, a rich San Juan merchant, who had -sent his troop to Uspallata to await an opportunity to cross to Chili, -in advance of the troops of the other merchants. The don was daily -expected by the capataz, who had been three or four days on the road -already. The capataz urged me to remain with the troop until the -next morning, which invitation I accepted, and tying my horse to some -resinous bushes, I sat down to a sumptuous meal of boiled corn, dried -beef, and pepper, while my jaded animal satisfied himself in cropping -the tops of the bushes, and a kind of stunted weed that grew among the -rocks. Towards dusk it rained, but my heavy blanket kept me dry. The -guides huddled around the dying embers, vainly endeavoring to warm -their benumbed limbs; around us the hills seemed to be shaken by the -heavy thunders that reverberated along the mountain tops. - -Fearing that my horse would give out, as he had lived mostly upon -bushes and coarse herbage since leaving San Juan, I arose early, and, -guided by the bright starlight, caught my animal, and led him up the -valley. A spur of the sierra blocked up the valley, and this steep -ascent had to be climbed by the poor animal, he halting every few steps -to draw breath. Having reached the summit, he heaved a deep sigh, as if -conscious of having finished a hard task. - -A magnificent view rewarded me for the exertion of making the ascent. -The rocky grandeur filled me with awe, for I was surrounded by a -sublime chaos--broken hills, valleys, and barren cliffs of the sierra. - -A white cloud passed over the valley, shutting me out from sight of -the world below; it was no easy task to follow the rocky path beyond; -sometimes it led down abrupt descents into dismal valleys, then again -almost to the level of the summit of the mountain range. Along this -crooked path but one mule can pass at a time, and there are places -where it requires but a single unsteady movement to send the loaded -animal into the abyss below. For nearly a mile the sierra on the left -side was formed of red freestone, and was, in many places, as regular -as a castle wall. In this lonely place the least sound would catch my -ear. - -The sierra that I had crossed is called the Paramilla, or “bleak -place;” in the warmest day a cold wind from the snow peaks of the -Andes blows drearily across it. Leaving the broken mass of rock, -the path descended abruptly into a little valley, which contained a -stone hut, and a corral for goats. This desolate spot was enlivened -by the presence of one of the prettiest señoras that I ever met. She -informed me that her husband, who was then hunting guanacos, supported -himself principally by keeping goats that browsed upon the sides of -the mountains. When he wished to butcher any of the guanacos, he, with -the assistance of a pack of trained curs, drove them into natural -rock-walled corrals among the mountains, where, hemmed in, the animals -were easily despatched with the _boliadores_ and knife. - -Leaving the valley, I ascended to a high plain that seemed to be on a -level with the summits of the neighboring range of the Cordilleras, and -as the sun was about sinking below the western horizon, I perceived -that this was to be my camping-place for the night. Laying the saddle -upon the ground for a pillow, and carefully spreading the blankets, I -lay down to rest, having first tied my horse to a stunted bush, which -he vainly tried to eat. - -I dropped into a restless slumber; but an hour later, a wild, desolate -cry caused me to spring from my blankets, and prepare for defence. I -had been told many stories of the cruelty of the puma, or American -lion, and at this moment feared that one of these animals was on the -plain. It was along this part of the road that guides had seen their -tracks, and hunters had run them down with dogs a few miles from the -plain upon which I had encamped. - -Another wild cry, and the animal passed along the plain without heeding -either my horse or me, and, glad to be left in peace, I sank into a -sound sleep, that continued unbroken until the rising sun gilded the -snowy crests of the lofty Cordillera. - -It was a beautiful scene that lay before me. Across the plain floated -white clouds of mist, like airy spirits, while before me lay a narrow -valley, through which the road led to Uspallata. Upon one side of the -plain rose several low hills, green with coarse herbage, upon which a -small herd of llamas were feeding, as if unconscious of the presence of -man. - -I soon was ready to start; but my old horse seemed incapable of moving. -I rubbed his stiff limbs until I had worked myself into a perspiration; -he was so far recovered as to be able to move slowly. I seized the -lasso, and led him on as before. - -The road descended to the ravine just referred to, and for an hour or -so my journey led through the surrounding cliffs; but at length we -again emerged upon a flat plain, covered with low bushes, and over this -I led the way until afternoon, when a green spot at the foot of a high -range of mountains, and the hut of a farmer, caught my eye, and soon -after I drew up before the last house in the Argentine Republic--the -Guarde of Uspallata. - -Before I could fairly disencumber my horse of his burden, he bolted for -the clover-field behind the house, and commenced devouring the fodder -with an avidity that told too well of his famished condition. - -The person in charge of the house informed me that the passing was -very difficult, and advised me to remain a few days; but, knowing too -well that delays are dangerous, I made preparations for leaving on the -next day. I was to leave the horse in the clover-pasture, and strap -my blankets and other articles to my back, and in this way cross the -main range of the Andes. From this I had no alternative; and so, after -arranging everything for an early start, I lay down under the porch to -take a _siesta_. - -I was soon awakened by the tinkling of a mule-bell, and upon rising -saw three persons before the guarde, accompanied by several mules. Two -of these men were dressed in the gaucho fashion, but the other had -the garb and manners of a merchant, which he proved to be; for, as -I approached him, he offered me his hand, and, with a polite _“para -servir vd.,”_ introduced himself as Don Fernando de Oro, a merchant of -San Juan. He informed me that the postmaster near San Juan, with whom I -passed a day and two nights, had requested him to keep a sharp lookout -for a young _gringo_ that was on the road, and to take him safely under -his protecting arm to the American consul in Valparaiso. I felt much -flattered by this acknowledgment, and at once accepted Don Fernando as -my guardian and protector. - -The don remarked that his troop of mules, which I had passed two days -before, would arrive on that night, and remain in the clover-field -until a passage could be effected. The troop came in at a late hour. - -The next day was a lovely one; and as the weather gave promise of -being settled for a few days, preparations for setting out on the -following morning were commenced. The mules for Don Fernando, and two -guides, were selected from the troop of ninety, and two extra ones were -carefully shod, to answer in case of any emergency. My friend declared -that it would be unfair not to allow my horse to accompany us across -the Andes, after he had been through so much privation; therefore a -heavy pair of shoes were selected from the store mules’ pack, and -nailed firmly to his feet. “Now,” said the don, as he viewed the lank -form of the animal with no little merriment, “Art has exhausted herself -upon you, and Nature alone must support you on the road to-morrow.” - -Early on the following morning, Don Fernando, his two guides, and -myself, with our animals, crossed the little river that ran past the -guard-house, and at sunrise entered a narrow cleft in the sierra, and -followed a stony path, until we came in sight of the River Mendoza, -which rushed along the bed of the valley, roaring like thunder. The -path grew narrower as we progressed, sometimes following the margin of -the river, then ascending midway to the tops of the high sierra. It was -a scene of great sublimity. The river, which was a deep mud-color, from -the alluvial matter brought down from the mountain, was hemmed in by -the two parallel sierras, that towered majestically to the height of -several thousand feet. - -In some places the path wound like a thread along the bold front of -a precipice; then it descended to the water, and followed its course, -until it again ascended. As we gazed above, the huge pieces of detached -rock seemed ready to fall and crush us. - -The melting snow had undermined the soil in some places, and slides of -earth and stones had fallen, and covered up the track. - -After crossing a little bridge that had been thrown over a stream which -flowed into the river of the valley, we came upon several ruined huts, -which the don told me once belonged to an ancient tribe of Indians that -inhabited the valleys of the Andes, and subsisted principally upon the -flesh of the wild llamas. - -This was before the country had become independent of Spain; and though -many years had passed since their construction by the Indian builders, -it was interesting to note that the plaster that held the stones -together, and which was nothing but a kind of clay, still remained -unbroken, as if the structures had been but recently deserted. These -remains of the walls of the Indian dwellings were four feet in height, -and were partitioned off into small rooms. - -In the corner of one of the dilapidated dwellings was a heap of stones, -surmounted by a tiny cross, made of rough twigs. The guides looked -serious as we passed it, and in answer to my questioning look, the don -told the following story:-- - -“When a Chileno loves, he loves with a passion so deep and strong that -honor, friends, and fortune are secondary in his estimation to her who -has thrown around him the network of her affections. A youth not long -since came from Chili to visit a relative on the Argentine side of the -Cordillera. His stay was protracted, for he had met with a beautiful -maiden, far lovelier than those of his native country; and when he -left, it was only to receive the permission of his friends to return -again, and claim her as his own. - -“He crossed these mountains to Chili; but the fierce _temporales_ from -the south had commenced before he reached the main range on his return, -where the risk is greater in effecting a passage at such a season than -on any other part of the road. - -“He had with him experienced guides, and a favorite mule carried his -wedding garments and the presents that he intended to offer his future -bride. On the Cumbre pass, at an elevation of twelve thousand feet, a -_temporal_ struck the party, and one by one the mules became buried in -the snow. - -“The boy worked like a hero (I was with the company), and during the -storm his orders were obeyed by the muleteers with alacrity, for they -loved him well. - -“But all exertions proved unsuccessful; not an animal escaped; and the -weary party descended the Cumbre into the valley, worn out with their -tremendous labors. The boy never lived to leave the valley; there he -lies,”--pointing to the cross,--“buried in his chosen spot. The guides -piled stones upon his body, to keep the condors from devouring it. See! -there is one now watching the grave.” - -I looked to the place designated, and saw upon the opposite cliff a -huge dark-colored bird, that stood sentinel-like, a solemn watcher -above the unfortunate Chileno’s grave. - -Not far beyond, the path again troubled us by its extreme narrowness, -and a dizziness came over me as I gazed far below into the mountain -torrent. - -Along this part of the road were piles of the bones of animals that had -died upon the road during the past years. Some perished from hunger, -and many fell over the precipices, lodging among the rocks, where, -after long and painful struggles, they died. It seemed, truly, like -going through the Valley of Death, so numerous were the carcasses and -bones of cattle in this part of the valley. - -Condors were occasionally seen upon the cliffs, sometimes circling -high in the heavens. I had often observed these birds with interest -when they came in numbers from the Andes, to feed upon carrion around -Causete. - -The condor is, I believe, the largest of the carrion-feeders; it has -a fleshy crest upon the head, with wattle-like appendages beneath the -beak; the nostrils extend through the cere, the head and neck are bare -of feathers, and the skin of the neck lies in folds; around its base, -a little above the shoulders, is a frill of white, downy feathers -encircling it. Its flight is graceful, and at times very lofty. The -breeding-places of the condors are in hollows of the cliffs, hundreds -of feet from their bases; the eggs are laid upon the bare rock. - -I have seen these birds in pairs; but in winter months they generally -congregate in greater numbers. - -While in the air, the condor soars in graceful circles, moving its -wings but little: they feed upon carrion, but will kill weak and -wounded animals, somewhat resembling the caracara in this respect. - -The range of the condor extends along the Andes, from the Straits of -Magellan to 8° north latitude. I have seen specimens kept as pets in -the gardens of native gentlemen. - -At the Cueste de la Catedral a grand sight awaited us. From the brink -of the river there arose a precipice of dark-colored stone, that -frowned upon the narrow path which passed along its front. A stream of -water fell over the brink of the ledge, and wherever the water struck -the rough projections, it was converted into spray, which fell in -turn upon other points of the rock, giving to the scene a fairy-like -appearance. - -Just at dusk we arrived at a point where the valley turned in a -new direction, and was particularly distinguished for the desolate -appearance of the surrounding rocks, which is, however, somewhat -relieved by a bridge of English model, built by the Mendoza government. -Across this we hurried, and stood upon La Punta de las Vacas, or Cow -Point, where a desolate stone hut had been occupied years before -by cow-herds, smugglers, and now sometimes served to shelter the -benighted traveller. On the opposite bank of the torrent stood the -first _casucha_, or post hut, built of bricks and plaster. It was -very small, and was modelled upon a cheap plan, being without doors, -sashes, windows,--a large square hole answering for the first and last -conveniences. - -During the Spanish reign, those snow huts were liberally supplied -with provisions, wines, wood, and bedding; but republican rulers are -satisfied to let the four men who compose the mail party carry their -own blankets, fuel, and food upon their backs--a miserable rule, that -causes much suffering among the post-men, who are often shut up for -many days at a time in a cheerless hut, while the snow storms are -raging around them. - -A league beyond the _casucha_, the guides led the way into a narrow -valley, where the animals were turned loose, to graze upon whatever -they might find. The don spread a raw hide upon the ground, upon which -we laid our blankets, and consigned ourselves to the embraces of the -drowsy god. - -The long walk had thoroughly jaded me, and it needed no narcotic to -insure a sound sleep for the following seven hours. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - CROSSING THE ANDES--CONTINUED. - - -When the sun’s rays of the next morning had penetrated the valley, -we were more than a league from our camping-ground, and had passed -the second _casucha_, or snow hut, of the winter courier. This little -domicile was built after the model of its distant neighbor at La Punta -de las Vacas, and was two leagues farther up the valley. While we were -trudging along, the metallic-sounding whinny of llamas sounded from -the sierra, and, looking up, we counted no less than thirty of these -graceful creatures gazing curiously upon us. The herd consisted of -males, females, and young, the latter of the size of the common goat. -As travellers rarely cross the mountains at this season of the year, -the llamas instinctively inhabit the valley, where they are free from -danger, and find a better living than the rocky cliffs afford. - -Again the valley was blocked up by a spur of the sierra, called the -Paramilla, the second one crossed since leaving the hamlet of El -Durazno. The sides were steep, and Don Fernando cautioned me against -walking, observing that riding kept the _puna_ (a peculiar effect -produced by inhaling rarefied air) at a distance. The summit of the -Paramilla was buried in a deep drift of snow, through which we forced -our animals at considerable risk; for their exertions to keep a footing -almost overtasked their strength. Sometimes falling into concealed -holes, they floundered in the great drift until our own services were -necessary to rescue them from injury. Finally, a passage was effected, -and we wound down the west side to the banks of the torrent in the -vicinity of the third snow hut. The color of the water had changed from -a muddy hue to dark red, and it seemed to rush along more impetuously -than at the entrance of the valley. The many little streams that fell -over the precipices along the road were colorless; therefore I judged -that either the bed of the torrent, or its source, gave to the water -its peculiar color; and it may be of interest to state in this place, -that, as far as I could learn, all the rivers that descend into the -Argentine Republic, on the east side of the Andes, are of a deep mud -color, holding in suspension alluvial mud; while upon the Chili, or -west side of the Andes, the waters are clear and colorless. - -The coolness of the morning soon gave way to the heat of the sun, and -it grew warmer as its rays were, reflected upon the snowy sides of the -mountains. The sound of a human voice fell upon our ears strangely -in this desolate place, as a party of men came into view far up the -valley. We soon met, and many were the inquiries made by the members -of both parties. The Cordillera had actually been passed, but an hour -or two before, by the courier and several persons who had placed -themselves under his orders. The courier was a short, square-built man, -of very dark complexion; and from the fact of his having performed many -daring passages during the past years, we looked upon him with no -ordinary interest. He rode on a small mule, the mail bag being slung to -his neck by a leather strap, and I did not exceed in size a school-boy’s -satchel. He informed us that the snow was thawing upon the summit of -the main ridge, and would not be passable until the cold night air had -crusted it over, when we might pass in comparative safety. But Don -Fernando was not to be stopped even by the opinion of so experienced a -personage as the courier, but ordered us to hurry on with all possible -speed. - -Soon the main range of the Andes rose before us, blocking up the valley -more effectually than either of the previous Paramillas, its rounded -top glistening from the reflected light of the sun. The don ordered -a halt beside the river, in order to prepare for future action. The -animals were allowed to drink a little water, while the don gave us all -a dose of starch water and sugar, which we drank. This was a remedy for -the _puna_, or at least to cause our stomachs to give off any gases -therein contained, to cool the blood and invigorate the system. Don -Fernando then bound his face in cotton handkerchiefs, and the guides -and myself followed his example. This was to protect our faces from the -reflected rays of the sun upon the white, shining drifts that covered -the summits of the Cordillera and the neighboring sierras. - -The river branched off to the northward, and was lost to view among -the mountains. At the base of the Cordillera was the last snow hut of -the Argentine Republic: passing it and the river, we commenced our -weary ascent. Water had been flowing from the summit for several days -previous to our arrival, and there was no appearance of the old path -which had been washed away. As the side of this part of the range was -composed of gravel and loose stones, it was difficult to obtain a firm -footing, and the animals were continually slipping, which obliged us to -exercise no little care and labor. The guides dismounted, but the don -declared that he had no wish to court the _puna_ by exerting himself -unnecessarily; therefore he managed to keep upon his mule; but more -than once the inclination of the animal’s back was such that the rider -was only saved by a slide off by the attentions of one of the guides. A -direct ascent could not be attempted; our only method was to wind back -and forth from side to side, on the face of the Cordillera, thus making -the ascent very gradual. - -When we were about two thirds of the way up, our anticipated trouble -commenced. The baggage mule lost her footing, and rolled over and -over down the side of the mountain. Don Fernando shrieked out a hasty -_caramba_, the guides a naughty _c--o_, while I stood aghast. But our -fears were soon quieted; for the animal struck upon a projecting piece -of rock, which stayed her course, without apparently injuring her. - -Being the smallest of the party, I was intrusted with the lasso, with -which I crawled down to the mule, and fastened it about her neck, when -she was pulled upon her feet by the party above. Having been relieved -of her cargo, the animal readily commenced ascending, as if nothing had -troubled her, and soon she was in the path again with her load upon her -back. - -After many fallings and backslidings, our party stood upon the Cumbre, -or summit of the Cordillera, at an elevation of twelve thousand feet -above the level of the sea. When viewed from the valley below, I was -disappointed as to its seeming altitude; but when standing upon the -Cumbre, I fully realized the great height upon which our party had -halted. The view was confined by the irregular peaks of the surrounding -sierras; but a fine scene lay below us on the Chili side, of a peculiar -Alpine character. We stood upon the dividing line of the Argentine -Republic and Chili, and I inwardly bade farewell to the country that -had been my first teacher of travellers’ hardships, and had for much -suffering given me lessons of usefulness--had impressed upon my heart a -truer patriotism, and a more dignified respect for our republic of the -north. - -As we gazed into the depth below us, a wild scene met our view. The -deep valley was filled with snow to a depth of nearly one hundred feet; -for as the snow tempests blow along the range of mountains, the fleecy -material drifts into the narrow defiles, filling them completely, in -some places, to the very tops. This is the case, particularly, farther -to the south, where a winter passage is rarely, if ever, attempted. -Upon the left side of the descent the first Chilian _casucha_ rose out -of the snow, differing somewhat in model from those upon the Argentine -side, the roof being rounded or oven-shaped, while those on the east -side are two inclined planes, like the roof of a New England cottage in -the earlier times. - -Until now the powerful reflected light had not affected my vision; -but I at last began to feel it seriously. I had neglected to bring -“goggles,” and though a thick cotton handkerchief covered my head, my -skin was parched, and tears continually rolled down my face, adding to -my torture, from which there was no escape. “Thank Providence that the -day is so very clear,” ejaculated the don; “for if a _temporal_ should -pass over, where would we be by nightfall? Either blocked up in that -cold snow hut yonder, or buried in the valley below.” - -The snow had commenced thawing, and the real difficulties of crossing -now commenced. The mules floundered in the drifts, often requiring our -combined exertions to keep them on a sure footing. Near the _casucha_ -we came upon hard snow; but the original path lay many feet below, -buried in the drift. While the party were pausing to consider the -proper course to pursue, I noticed that one of the mules had been -caught by Don Fernando, who waded towards the firm snow, leading -the little animal by means of a lasso, which had been thrown about -her neck. She was the smallest of the animals, and was called the -_baqueana_, or guide mule, from the fact that she could follow the -hidden path with great accuracy. - -Curious to see her operations, I watched her closely as she walked -carefully over the drift, with her nose almost touching the snow; and -she really seemed to be guided by the sense of smell. The other animals -followed, driven by the guides, while the don and myself harnessed -ourselves with the lassos, and drew after us the hide upon which had -been laid the baggage, saddles, &c. - -Beyond the snow hut of the Cumbre, the descent was abrupt, and the line -of the narrow path having been lost, we slid down the drifts in a most -exhilarating manner. The mules came after, requiring to be well whipped -by one of the guides before they would move an inch. Though the guide -mule lost the narrow path, after following for some distance correctly, -she became valuable to us on this part of the trail. We came to another -descent, down which the other mules could not be driven; but when the -little _baqueana_ sat upon the snow, and gracefully descended without -injury, the laggards followed, as one sheep follows another; all but -one descended safely; she stuck fast in the drift, and it required our -whole number to ascend and rescue her. We found her suffering from -the _puna_, and in dubious spirits. Her exertions to free herself in -a place where the atmosphere was so rare had almost ruined the poor -beast. Blood trickled from her nose, and her breast was swollen like a -bladder distended with wind. - -At four o’clock Don Fernando ordered a halt upon a pile of loose rocks -that protruded from the snow. Here we remained patiently waiting for -the snow to crust over, as it had become too soft to allow of safe -travelling. Twilight fell upon us in this wild retreat, and found the -guides and the don rolled up in their _ponchos_, suffering from the -stinging cold. As for myself, I jumped about upon our little territory -until the increased circulation of the blood kept me in a warm glow. -The guides fortified themselves against the cold air by drinking -_aguardiente_; but experience had proved to me that the cold snow water -in my flask would give me a firmer step, an easier respiration, and a -clearer head than any brandy or _aguardiente_ of the San Juaninos. - -The moon shone as beautiful as we could have wished, lighting up the -valley and its towering walls in a sublime manner. The little cascades -of melting snow no longer fell over the cliffs, but froze, coating the -dark fronts of the precipices with a shield of sparkling ice, and the -sharp “ticking” of the frost sounded strangely, seeming to add to the -weirdness of the place. - -After remaining for three hours, the guides pronounced the snow -sufficiently crusted over to bear us; and, pointing to a sharp angle -of the valley, the oldest one desired me to lead my horse in that -direction, while the rest of the party attended to the animals. - -The River Aconcagua roared along the mountain’s sides, and in most -places was hidden by the frozen snow. Our course lay along its borders, -where many gullies crossed our trail, hidden beneath the frozen crust. - -While feeling our way along, old Yellow-skin, my horse, fell through -the crust into a torrent that flowed into the river, leaving me -standing upon the broken edges of the hole. The guides pulled me from -the chasm, and beat the old horse until he became excited to such a -degree as to crawl out of his bath with a vigor that satisfied us he -would live to reach the open country. - -We next crossed a high spur of the mountains, and, descending a -precipitous path, came upon the second snow hut of the Chilian -government; and after following many windings, and experiencing much -danger in crossing the river, the dry, brown earth was reached, and we -looked up to the lofty mountains, that shone in the moonlight, with -great satisfaction, for our labors were ended. The guides gathered -a few sticks together, and succeeded in lighting a fire, by the heat -of which a scrap of jerked beef was cooked; but before this had been -accomplished, the don and myself, overtasked by the fatigues of our -long journey, had rolled ourselves up in the hide, and were sleeping -too soundly to be awakened by the peons, who undoubtedly were pleased -at the result, for they had all the beef to themselves. When the reader -reflects that the preceding stage of the journey had been very long and -arduous, we having travelled, with the exception of three hours, from -four o’clock of the morning of one day until two o’clock of the next -morning, he will acknowledge that our rest was well earned. - - - - - CHAPTER XX. - - FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. - - -At daylight we breakfasted on dried beef and _maté_ tea, and soon -started on our journey, which was now rapidly drawing to a close. The -sun was high in the heavens, although we could not for a long time see -his face, for the mountains shut us in completely. We continued down -the valley, passing near some fine springs of water, which, from the -peculiar manner in which they burst forth from the ground, are called -“_Los ojos de Agua_,” or Eyes of Water. - -The first signs of civilization that we reached on the Chili territory -was at a place called “_El Guarde Viejo_,” the old custom-house of the -Chilian government. - -This was occupied by a farmer, a new government building having been -erected farther down, at the mouth of the valley. Beyond the _Guarde_, -at intervals, little huts were seen, the inhabitants of which were -garrulous and hospitable. - -As we emerged from the valley, and encountered troops of mules and -parties of country people, I observed the peculiar characteristics -which distinguish the Chilians from the people of the country behind -us. The muleteers on the eastern side of the Andes were grave in -deportment, and slow in speech and movement. - -The Chilians were more energetic and intelligent,--perhaps from more -extended intercourse with foreigners. Yet they have the discredit of -being less honest than their brethren of the pampa provinces. The -men of Chili wore a short poncho, mainly covering the wearer’s hips. -The Argentinos’ poncho is of the longest kind--longer than those of -the people of any other South American republic. The Chilian’s lasso -_hangs_ in coils from the saddle behind the rider; the gaucho’s is -carefully coiled up, and rests on the horse’s croup. - -The farms now became more frequent as we travelled along; the buildings -were neatly roofed with red tiles, and furnished a striking contrast, -to those of Mendoza and San Juan, which were generally of canes and mud. - -As night came on, we reached an irrigating canal, which conveyed water -to the town of San Rosa; thrifty little farms were fed by its waters -all along the road, and neatness and good order and management were -everywhere discernible. The little houses were shaded by groves of fig -and orange trees, and the reader can imagine our thoughts and happiness -to be travelling through a country bright with blossoming fruit trees, -when but a few hours before we had slept near snow-drifts. - -Groups of young people were often seen seated beneath the trees, or -under the verandas, singing, or playing on the guitar. Before one of -the farm-houses we drew up, and, after being welcomed by one of these -happy groups, we led our animals from the road, and prepared to remain -for the night. An abundant supper was furnished us, and I do not -remember a pleasanter night’s rest that I ever had, than that. - -The next morning I went out to the pasture to bid my old horse _adios_. -I found him cropping the rich _alfalfa_ on the irrigated field; and as -I approached him he seemed rather disinclined to any familiarity, for -he had associated me with all the hardships of the journey; and now to -leave a land of plenty with me was evidently not to his taste. I lost -no time in assuring him that my intentions were pacific, and when I -left him he gave a pleasant whisk of his tail and shake of the ears, -apparently thanking me for leaving him so literally “in clover.” - -My pedestrian journey was ended. I would have liked to continue on foot -to the sea, which I could easily have reached in a couple of days; but -my kind friend Don Fernando would not permit me to leave his troop. I -must keep him company. - -“You must come with me, my son,” he said. “I wish to introduce you to -some very nice people. I am a Chilian by birth, and I desire that you -shall form a good opinion of my countrymen.” - -A mule, richly caparisoned, was furnished me by the don, and, mounting -our animals, we soon rode into the town of Santa Rosa. Drawing up his -mule before the entrance of a large mansion, before which paced a -soldier with musket in hand, Don Fernando inquired if Don José Ynfante, -the governor of the department of Santa Rosa, was at home. - -The soldier replied that that gentleman was at Santiago on official -business, but that his son Don Manuel was at home. While a servant went -to announce our arrival, I had time to note that the national flag of -Chili floated above the stately mansion, while a peep within the yard -revealed beds of beautiful flowers and well-kept walks. - -In a moment Don Manuel appeared, and, cordially embracing his uncle, -exclaimed, “Welcome to Chili, and to Santa Rosa!” The don introduced -me to the other gentleman, who greeted me warmly, uttering at the -same time many expressions of good feeling for me and my countrymen. -We then entered the house, and passed a most pleasant day in social -intercourse, to which the agreeable and cultivated manners of the young -don added no little charm. Don Manuel, as if to bring our recent hard -fare more strongly to our imaginations, feasted us upon strawberries -and sherbet; and the reader can form some faint idea how acceptable -they were to us. The ice for the sherbet had been brought down from the -Cordillera on the backs of mules. - -On the following day we mounted our animals, and, bidding _adios_ -to Don Manuel, resumed our journey for the coast. Leaving Santa -Rosa, we passed over an interesting country, and in the afternoon -crossed a fine bridge of foreign construction, and entered the town -of San Felipé,--which has a population of about twelve thousand -inhabitants,--where we passed the night. - -The River Aconcagua irrigates the gardens and farms in this district, -and the soil is very fertile, yielding abundant crops of grain, -potatoes, melons, maize, beans, walnuts, figs, peaches, tobacco, and -grapes. The town is about eighty miles from Valparaiso. - -Resuming our route on the next morning, and travelling all day, we -entered, at dusk, the town of Quillota, which contains about ten -thousand souls, and is about thirty-five miles from Valparaiso. - -Here we found some large and well-cultivated farms, and the whole -country was quite interesting. - -On the following morning Don Fernando started in advance of our party, -to prepare for our arrival at Valparaiso, this being the last day of -the journey. - -I remained with the people of the troop, and kept them company during -the whole day. No incident occurred worthy of record here; and before -the twilight had begun to fall upon the heavens, we were descending -the high _cuestas_ that overlook Valparaiso, which city lay stretched -out below us on the shore of the great Pacific, its white plastered -dwellings glistening like silver in the rays of the declining sun. - -Winding down the stony path, we entered the city before dark, and were -soon ensconced in comfortable quarters. - -On the following day I presented my letters of introduction to the -United States consul, George Merwin, Esq., who, after giving me a kind -reception, and warm congratulations on the success of my long journey, -interested himself so much in procuring me a berth in an American -vessel, that before twenty-four hours had passed I was comfortably -settled on board the fine ship Magellan, Captain Charles King, and I -once more entered upon the routine of life before the mast. A few weeks -later, and we were scudding down the western coast of Patagonia, and -“going around the Horn” on our journey home. - - * * * * * - -Reader, my story is told. If you have been enabled in these pages to -glean a little instruction or amusement for your leisure hours, I -shall feel well rewarded; and if, when in imagination you followed me -in my weary journey, you, perhaps, felt some little sympathy for the -hardships I sometimes experienced, I shall never regret my pedestrian -trip across the “PAMPAS AND THE ANDES.” - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - -Errors and omissions in punctuation have been fixed. - -Page 47: “by order of his goverment” changed to “by order of his -government” - -Page 124: “the _Santigueños_” changed to “the _Santiagueños_” - -Page 234: “a leather rope, the _biador_,” changed to “a leather rope, -the _fiador_,” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PAMPAS AND ANDES: A -THOUSAND MILES' WALK ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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