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<body>
<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 69067 ***</div>

<div class="front">
<div class="div1 cover"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure cover-imagewidth"><img src="images/front.jpg" alt="Original Front Cover." width="509" height="720"></div><p>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 frenchtitle"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first center large">MASHONALAND
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 frontispiece"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure frontispiecewidth" id="frontispiece"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt="Wooden Platter found in a Cave about 10 Miles from Zimbabwe" width="720" height="529"><p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Wooden Platter found in a Cave about 10 Miles from Zimbabwe</span></p>
</div><p>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 titlepage"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure titlepage-imagewidth"><img src="images/titlepage.png" alt="Original Title Page." width="464" height="720"></div><p>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="titlePage">
<div class="docTitle">
<div class="mainTitle">THE RUINED CITIES <br>OF <br>MASHONALAND</div>
<div class="subTitle">BEING A RECORD OF <br><i>EXCAVATION AND EXPLORATION IN 1891</i></div>
</div>
<div class="byline">BY <br><span class="docAuthor">J. THEODORE BENT, F.S.A. F.R.G.S.</span> <br><span class="small">AUTHOR OF ‘THE CYCLADES, OR LIFE AMONGST THE INSULAR GREEKS’ ETC.</span>
<br>WITH A CHAPTER ON THE <br>ORIENTATION AND MENSURATION OF THE TEMPLES <br>BY R. M. W. SWAN
</div>
<div class="docImprint">NEW EDITION
<br>LONDON <br>LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. <br>AND NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16<sup>th</sup> STREET <br><span class="docDate">1895</span>
<br><i>All rights reserved</i> </div>
</div>
<p></p>
<div class="div1 note"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main"><i>BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE.</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first"><i>First Edition, 8vo. November 1892; New and Cheaper Edition, with additional Appendix,
crown 8vo. August 1893; Reprinted, with additions, January 1895.</i>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.vii">[<a href="#pb.vii">vii</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 preface"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main">PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION</h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Since the appearance of the second edition of this book I have received many communications
about the Mashonaland ruins, considerable additional work in excavation has been done,
and many more ruins have come to light as the country has been opened out. Of this
material I have set down the chief points of interest.
</p>
<p><i>Professor D.&nbsp;H. Müller.</i>—Professor D.&nbsp;H. Müller, of Vienna, the great Austrian authority on Southern Arabian
archæology, wrote to me on the subject, and kindly drew my attention to passages in
his work on the towers and castles of South Arabia which bore on the question, and
from which I now quote. Marib, the Mariaba of Greek and Roman geographers, was the
capital of the old Sabæan kingdom of Southern Arabia, and celebrated more especially
for its gigantic dam and irrigation system, the ruin of which was practically the
ruin of the country. East-north-east of Marib, half an hour’s ride brings one to the
great <span class="pageNum" id="pb.viii">[<a href="#pb.viii">viii</a>]</span>ruin called by the Arabs the Haram of Bilkis or the Queen of Sheba. It is an elliptical
building with a circuit of 300 feet, and the plan given by the French traveller, M.
Arnaud, shows a remarkable likeness to the great circular temple at Zimbabwe.
</p>
<p>Again, the long inscription on this building is in two rows, and runs round a fourth
of its circumference; this corresponds to the position of the two rows of chevron
pattern which run round a fourth part of the temple at Zimbabwe. Furthermore, one
half of the elliptical wall on the side of the inscription is well built and well
preserved, whereas that on the opposite side is badly built and partly ruined. This
is also the case in the Zimbabwe ruin, where all the care possible has been lavished
on the side where the pattern and the round tower are, and the other portion has been
either more roughly finished or constructed later by inferior workmen.
</p>
<p>From the inscriptions on the building at Marib we learn that it was a temple dedicated
to the goddess Almaqah. Professor Müller writes as follows:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first">There is absolutely no doubt that the Haram of Bilkis is an old temple in which sacred
inscriptions to the deities were set up on stylæ. The elliptically formed wall appears
to have been always used in temple buildings; also at Sirwah, the Almaqah temple,
which is decidedly very much older than the Haram of Bilkis, was also built in an
oval form. Also these temples, as the inscriptions show, were dedicated to Almaqah.
Arabian archæologists also identify Bilkis with Almaqah, and, therefore, make the
temple of Almaqah into a female apartment (haram).</p>
</blockquote><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.ix">[<a href="#pb.ix">ix</a>]</span></p>
<p>From Hamdani, the Arabian geographer, we learn that Ialmaqah was the star Venus; for
the star Venus is called in the Himyaritic tongue Ialmaqah or Almaq, ‘illuminating,’
and hence we see the curious connection arising between the original female goddess
of the earlier star-worshipping Sabæans and the later myth of the wonderful Queen
Bilkis, who was supposed to have constructed these buildings.
</p>
<p>It seems to me highly probable that in the temple of Zimbabwe we have a Sabæan Almaqah
temple; the points of comparison are so very strong, and there is furthermore a strong
connection between the star-worshipping Sabæans and the temple with its points orientated
to the sun, and built on such definite mathematical principles.
</p>
<p>Professor Sayce called my attention to the fact that the elliptical form of temple
and the construction on a system of curves is further paralleled by the curious temples
at Malta, which all seemed to have been constructed on the same principle.
</p>
<p>Mr. W. St. Chad Boscawen’s interesting communication to the preface of the second
edition receives confirmation from details concerning the worship of Sopt at Saft-el-Henneh,
published by Herr Brugsch in the Proceedings of Biblical Archæology. Sopt, he tells
us, was the feudal god of the Arabian nome, the nome of Sopt. At Saft-el-Henneh this
god is described upon the monuments as ‘Sopt the Spirit of the East, the Hawk, the
Horus of the East’ (Naville’s ‘Goshen,’ p. 10), and as also connected with Tum, the
rising <span class="pageNum" id="pb.x">[<a href="#pb.x">x</a>]</span>and setting sun (p. 13). M. Naville believes that this bird represents not the rising
sun, but one of the planets, Venus, the morning star; that is to say, that Sopt was
the herald of the sun, not the sun itself. Herr Brugsch, however, believes that it
was really the god of the zodiacal light, the previous and the after glow. If M. Naville’s
theory is correct, we have at once a strong connection between Almaqah, the Venus
star of the Sabæans, and the goddess worshipped at Marib and probably at Zimbabwe,
and the hawk of Sopt, the feudal god of the Arabian nome, which was closely connected
with the worship of Hathor, ‘the queen of heaven and earth.’
</p>
<p>Sir John Willoughby conducted further excavations at Zimbabwe, which lasted over a
period of five weeks. He brought to light a great number of miscellaneous articles,
but unfortunately none of the finds are different from those which we discovered.
He obtained a number of crucibles, phalli, and bits of excellent pottery, fragments
of soapstone bowls. One object only may be of interest, which he thus describes:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first">This was a piece of copper about six inches in length, a quarter of an inch wide,
and an eighth of an inch thick, covered with a green substance (whether enamel, paint,
or lacquer, I am unable to determine), and inlaid with one of the triangular Zimbabwe
designs. It was buried some five feet below the surface, almost in contact with the
east side of the wall itself.</p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>Sir John also found some very fine pieces of <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xi">[<a href="#pb.xi">xi</a>]</span>pottery which would not disgrace a classical period in Greece or Egypt. Furthermore,
he made it abundantly clear that the buildings are of many different periods, for
they show more recent walls superposed on older ones.
</p>
<p>Mr. R.&nbsp;W.&nbsp;M. Swan, who was with us on our expedition as cartographer and surveyor,
has this year returned to Mashonaland, and has visited and taken the plans of no less
than thirteen sets of ruins of minor importance, but of the same period as Zimbabwe,
on his way up from the Limpopo river to Fort Victoria. The results of these investigations
have been eminently satisfactory, and in every case confirming the theory of the construction
of the great Zimbabwe temple.
</p>
<p>At the junction of the Lotsani river with the Limpopo he found two sets of ruins and
several shapeless masses of stones, not far from a well-known spot where the Limpopo
is fordable. Both of these are of the same workmanship as the Zimbabwe buildings,
though not quite so carefully constructed as the big temple; the courses are regular,
and the battering back of each successive course and the rounding of the ends of the
walls are very cleverly done. The walls are built of the same kind of granite and
with holes at the doorways for stakes as at Zimbabwe. But what is most important,
Mr. Swan ascertained that the length of the radius of the curves of which they are
built is equal to the diameter of the Lundi temple or the circumference of the great
round tower <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xii">[<a href="#pb.xii">xii</a>]</span>at Zimbabwe. He then proceeded to orientate the temple, and as the sun was nearly
setting he sat on the centre of the arc, and was delighted to find that the sun descended
nearly in a line with the main doorway; and as it was only seventeen days past the
winter solstice, on allowing for the difference in the sun’s declination for that
time, he found that a line from the centre of the arc through the middle of the doorway
pointed exactly to the sun’s centre when it set at the winter solstice. The orientation
of the other ruin he found was also to the setting sun. ‘This,’ writes Mr. Swan, ‘places
our theories regarding orientation and geometrical construction beyond a doubt.’
</p>
<p>Continuing his journey northwards, Mr. Swan found two sets of ruins in the Lipokole
hills, four near Semalali, and one actually 300 yards from the mess-room of the Bechuanaland
Border Police at Macloutsie camp. Owing to stress of time Mr. Swan was not able to
visit all the ruins that he heard of in this locality, but he was able to fix the
radii of two curves at the Macloutsie ruin, and four curves at those near Semalali,
and he found them all constructed on the system used at Zimbabwe. The two ruins on
the Lipokole hills he found to be fortresses only, and not built on the plan of the
temples. The temples consist generally of two curves only, and are of half-moon shape,
and seem never to have been complete enclosures; they are all built of rough stone,
for no good stone is obtainable, yet the curves <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xiii">[<a href="#pb.xiii">xiii</a>]</span>are extremely well executed, and are generally true in their whole length to within
one or two inches.
</p>
<p>Further up country, on the ’Msingwani river, Mr. Swan found seven sets of ruins, three
of which were built during the best period of Zimbabwe work. He measured three of
the curves here, and found them to agree precisely with the curve system used in the
construction of the round temple at Zimbabwe, and all of them were laid off with wonderful
accuracy.
</p>
<p>Another important piece of work done by Mr. Swan on his way up to Fort Victoria was
to take accurate measurements of the small circular temple about 200 yards from the
Lundi river. This we had visited on our way up; but as we had not then formed any
theory with regard to the construction of these buildings, we did not measure the
building with sufficient accuracy to be quite sure of our data.
</p>
<p>With regard to this ruin, Mr. Swan writes:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first">One door is to the north and the other 128° and a fraction from it; so that the line
from the centre to the sun rising at mid-winter bisects the arc between the doorways.
If one could measure the circumference of this arc with sufficient accuracy, we could
deduce the obliquity of the ecliptic when the temple was built. I made an attempt,
and arrived at about 2000 <span class="asc">B.C.</span>; but really it is impossible to measure with sufficient accuracy to arrive at anything
definite by this method, although from it we may get useful corroborative evidence.</p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>From this mass of fresh evidence as to the curves and orientation of the Mashonaland
ruins we may <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xiv">[<a href="#pb.xiv">xiv</a>]</span>safely consider that the builders of these mysterious structures were well versed
in geometry, and studied carefully the heavens. Beyond this nothing, of course, can
really be proved until an enormous amount of careful study has been devoted to the
subject. It is, however, very valuable confirmatory evidence when taken with the other
points, that the builders were of a Semitic race and of Arabian origin, and quite
excludes the possibility of any negroid race having had more to do with their construction
than as the slaves of a race of higher cultivation; for it is a well-accepted fact
that the negroid brain never could be capable of taking the initiative in work of
such intricate nature.
</p>
<p>Mr. Cecil Rhodes also had another excavation done outside the walls of the great circular
ruin, and the soil carefully sifted. In it were discovered a large number of gold
beads, gold in thin sheets, and 2½ ounces of small and beautifully made gold tacks;
also a fragment of wood about the tenth of an inch square, covered with a brown colouring
matter and a gilt herring-bone pattern.
</p>
<p>Mr. Swan thus describes these finds:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first">Very many gold beads have been found; also leaf gold and wedge-shaped tacks of gold
for fixing it on wood. Finely twisted gold wire and bits of gilt pottery, also some
silver. The pottery is the most interesting; it is very thin, only about one-fifteenth
of an inch thick, and had been coated with some pigment, on which the gilt is laid.
On the last fragment found the gilding is in waving lines, but on a former piece there
is a herring-bone pattern. The work is <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xv">[<a href="#pb.xv">xv</a>]</span>so fine that to see it easily one has to use a magnifying glass. The most remarkable
point about the gold ornaments is the quantity in which they are found. Almost every
panful of stuff taken from anywhere about the ruins will show some gold. Just at the
fountain the ground is particularly rich. I have tested some of the things from Zimbabwe,
and, in addition to gold, find alloy of silver and copper, and gold and silver.</p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>One of the most interesting of the later finds in Mashonaland is a wooden platter
found in a cave about 10 miles distant from Zimbabwe, a reproduction of which forms
the frontispiece to this edition. Mr. Noble, clerk of the Cape Houses of Parliament,
to whom I am indebted for the photograph of this object, thus describes it:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first">In the centre of the dish, which is about 38 inches in circumference, there is carved
the figure of a crocodile (which was probably regarded as a sacred animal) or an Egyptian
turtle, and on the rim of the plate is a very primitive representation of the zodiacal
characters, such as Aquarius, Pisces, Cancer, Sagittarius, Gemini, as well as Taurus
and Scorpio. Besides these there occur the figures of the sun and moon, a group of
three stars, a triangle, and four slabs with triangular punctures (two of them being
in reversed positions), all carved in relief, and displaying the same rude style of
art which marked the decorated bowl found by Mr. Bent in the temple at Zimbabwe. A
portion of the rim of the plate has been eroded by insects, probably from resting
on damp ground. Altogether, the relic presents to the eye an unquestionable specimen
of rare archaism, which has been remarkably preserved through many centuries, probably
dating back even before the Christian era. Previous observation <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xvi">[<a href="#pb.xvi">xvi</a>]</span>and measurements of Zimbabwe, by Mr. R. Swan, established the presumption that the
builders of it used astronomical methods and observed the zodiacal and other stars;
and this plate shows that the ancient people, whether Phœnician, Sabæan, or Mineans—all
of Arabian origin—were familiar with the stellar grouping and signs said to have been
first developed by the Chaldeans and dwellers in Mesopotamia.</p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>Another interesting find in connection with this early civilisation is a Roman coin
of the Emperor Antoninus Pius (<span class="asc">A.D.</span> 138); it was found in an ancient shaft near Umtali at a depth of 70 feet, and forms
a valuable link in the chain of evidence as to the antiquity of the gold mines in
Mashonaland.
</p>
<p>Concerning the more recent ruins discovered in Matabeleland, north of Buluwayo, we
have not much definite detail to hand at present. Mr. Swan writes that he has seen
photographs of them, and that ‘many of the ruins are of great size. One can clearly
see that in most cases the mason work is at least as good as that at Zimbabwe, and
the decorations on the wall are at least as well constructed and are more lavishly
used. In one ruin you have the chevron, the herring-bone, and the chessboard patterns.’
</p>
<p class="signed">J. THEODORE BENT
</p>
<p class="dateline"><span class="sc">13 Great Cumberland Place</span>: <br><i>October 31, 1894</i>.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.xvii">[<a href="#pb.xvii">xvii</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 preface"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main">PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION</h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">In looking over this work for a second edition, I find little to add to the material
as it appeared in the first, and next to nothing to alter. Sir John Willoughby has
kindly supplied me with details concerning five weeks’ excavation which he carried
on the summer following the one which we spent there, the results of which, however,
appear only to have produced additional specimens of the objects we found—namely,
crucibles with traces of gold, fragments of decorated bowls, phalli, &amp;c.—but no further
object to assist us in unravelling the mystery of the primitive race which built the
ruins.
</p>
<p>No one of the many reviewers of my work has criticised adversely my archæological
standpoint with regard to these South African remains: on the contrary, I continue
to have letters on the subject from all sides which make me more than ever convinced
that the authors of these ruins were a northern <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xviii">[<a href="#pb.xviii">xviii</a>]</span>race coming from Arabia—a race which spread more extensively over the world than we
have at present any conception of, a race closely akin to the Phœnician and the Egyptian,
strongly commercial, and eventually developing into the more civilised races of the
ancient world.
</p>
<p>Professor D.&nbsp;H. Müller, of Vienna, endorses our statements concerning the form and
nature of the buildings themselves in his work ‘Burgen und Schlösser’ (ii. 20), to
which he kindly called my attention; and Mr. W. St. Chad Boscawen has also favoured
me with the following remarks on certain analogous points that have struck him during
an archæological tour in Egypt this last winter:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first"><i>The Hawks Gods over the Mines in Mashonaland.</i>
</p>
<p>A curious parallel and possible explanation to the birds found in Mashonaland over
the works at Zimbabwe seems to me to be afforded by the study of the mines and quarries
of the ancient Egyptians. During my explorations in Egypt this winter I visited a
large number of quarries, and was much struck by noticing that in those of an early
period the hawk nearly always occurs as a guardian emblem.
</p>
<p>Of this we have several examples.
</p>
<p>In the Wady Magharah, the mines of which were worked for copper and turquoise by the
ancient Egyptians of the period of the Third and Fourth Dynasties, especially by Senefru,
Kufu, and Kephren, the figure of the hawk is found sculptured upon the rocks as the
special emblem of the god of the mines. Another striking example of this connection
of the hawk with the mines is afforded by a quarry worked <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xix">[<a href="#pb.xix">xix</a>]</span>for alabaster, which I visited in February of this year. The quarry is situated in
the Gebel-Kiawleh, to the east of the Siut road. It is a large natural cave, which
has been worked into a quarry yielding a rich yellow alabaster, such as was used for
making vases and toilet vessels. Over the door were sculptured the cartouches of Teta,
the first king of the Sixth Dynasty, but, as may be seen from the accompanying sketch,
in the centre of the lintel was a panel on which is sculptured the figure of a <i>hawk</i>. This quarry was only worked during<span class="corr" id="xd31e323" title="Not in source"> the</span> Sixth and Twelfth Dynasties, as in the interior were found inscriptions of Amen-em-hat
II. and Usortesen III. A third example of this association of the hawk and the mines
is afforded by a quarry of the period of the Eighteenth Dynasty. In the mountains
at the back of the plain of Tel-el-Amarna is a large limestone quarry. On one pillar
of this great excavation extending far into the hill is sculptured the cartouche of
Queen Tii. On another column we have the hawk and emblems of the goddess Hathor, <span class="figure p-xixwidth"><img src="images/p-xix.png" alt="Hieroglyph" width="37" height="48"></span>, to whom all mines were sacred. This seems to show that the hawk was the emblem of
the goddess Hathor, to whom all mines were sacred, as we know from the inscription
at Denderah, where the king says, ‘I bestow upon thee the mountains, to produce for
thee the stones to be a delight to see.’ And it must be remembered that the region
of Sinai was especially sacred to the goddess Hathor. This association of mines with
Hathor especially explains the birds, as, according to Sinaitic inscriptions, she
was in this region particularly worshipped. Here were temples to her where she was
worshipped as ‘the sublime Hathor, queen of heaven and earth and the dark depths below’;
and here she was also associated with the sparrow-hawk of Supt, ‘the lord of the East.’
This association with Sinai, and also with Arabia and Punt, which is attached to the
goddess Hathor, and her connection with the <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xx">[<a href="#pb.xx">xx</a>]</span>mines in Egypt, seems to me to be most important in connection with the emblem of
the hawk in the mines at Zimbabwe.
</p>
<p>According to the oldest traditions of the Egyptians there was a close association
between Hathor, the goddess of Ta-Netu, ‘the Holy Land,’ and Punt. She was called
the ‘Queen and Ruler of Punt.’ Now, Punt was the Somali coast, the Ophir of the Egyptians;
but, at the same time, there was undoubtedly a close association between it and Arabia,
and indeed, as Brugsch remarks, there is no need to limit it to Somali land, but to
embrace in it the coasts of Yemen and Hydramaut. ‘Here in these regions,’ he says
(‘Hist. Eg.’ p. 117), ‘we ought to seek, as it appears to us, for those mysterious
places which in the fore ages of all history the wonder-loving Cushite races, like
swarms of locusts, left in passing from Arabia and across the sea to set foot on the
rich and blessed Punt and the “Holy Land,” and to continue their wanderings into the
interior in a northerly and western direction. We may also bring this connection between
Punt, Sinai, and Egypt more close in the time of the Eighteenth Dynasty, when we see
on a rock-cut tablet at Sinai, in the Wady Magharah, the dual inscription of Hatsepsu
and Thothmes III., who present their offerings to the “lord of the East, the sparrow-hawk
Supt, and the heavenly Hathor.” ’
</p>
<p>With all these facts before us there seems little doubt that the association between
the hawks and the mines and miners is a very ancient one, and may be attributed to
either ancient Egyptian, or rather, I think, to very ancient Arabian times; for, as
we know from the inscriptions of Senefru, the builder of the Pyramid of Medum, the
mines in Sinai were worked by ‘foreigners,’ who may have been Chaldeans or ancient
Arabians.
</p>
<p>Another point which seems to me to throw some additional light upon this subject,
and again imply a possible <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxi">[<a href="#pb.xxi">xxi</a>]</span>Arabian connection, is the remarkable ingot mould discovered at Zimbabwe. The shape
is exactly that of the curious objects, possibly ingots of some kind, which are represented
as being brought by the Amu in the tomb of Khemmhotep at Beni Hasan, an event which
took place in the ninth year of the reign of King Usortesen II., of the Twelfth Dynasty.
The shape is very interesting, as it has evidently been chosen for the purposes of
being tied on to donkeys or carried by slaves. The curious phalli found at Zimbabwe
may also resemble the same emblems found in large numbers near the Speos Artemidos,
the shrine of Pasht, near to Beni Hasan, and may have been associated with the goddess
Hathor. There are many other features which seem to me to bear out a distinctly Arabo-Egyptian
theory as to the working of this ancient gold-field, and future study will no doubt
bring these in greater prominence.
</p>
<p class="signed"><span class="sc">W. St. C. Boscawen.</span></p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>Certain critics from South Africa have attacked my derivations of words. I admit that
the subject is open to criticism; almost anyone could state a derivation for such
words as Zimbabwe, Makalanga, Mashona, and they would all have about the same degree
of plausibility. Some people write and tell me that they are quite sure I am right;
others, again, write and tell me that they are quite sure I am wrong. Such being the
case, I prefer to let the derivations stand as I originally put them until positive
proof be brought before me, and for that I feel sure I shall have to wait a long time.
</p>
<p class="signed">J. THEODORE BENT.
</p>
<p class="dateline"><span class="sc">13 Great Cumberland Place</span>: <br><i>May 26, 1893</i>.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxiii">[<a href="#pb.xxiii">xxiii</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id="toc" class="div1 contents"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main">CONTENTS</h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">PART I
</p>
<p><i>ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS</i>
</p>
<table class="tocList">
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum xs">CHAP.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum xs">PAGE</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">I.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch1" id="xd31e371">The Journey up by the Kalahari Desert Route</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">II.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch2" id="xd31e382">First Impressions of Mashonaland</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">31</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">III.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch3" id="xd31e393">Camp Life and Work at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">60</td>
</tr>
</table><p>
</p>
<p>PART II
</p>
<p><i>DEVOTED TO THE ARCHÆOLOGY OF THE RUINED CITIES</i>
</p>
<table class="tocList">
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">IV.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch4" id="xd31e410">Description of the various Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">95</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">V.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch5" id="xd31e421">On the Orientation and Measurements of Zimbabwe Ruins</a>, by R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">141</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">VI.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch6" id="xd31e433">The Finds at the Great Zimbabwe Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">179</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">VII.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch7" id="xd31e444">The Geography and Ethnology of the Mashonaland Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">223</td>
</tr>
</table><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxiv">[<a href="#pb.xxiv">xxiv</a>]</span></p>
<p>PART III
</p>
<p><i>EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND</i>
</p>
<table class="tocList">
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">VIII.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch8" id="xd31e462">Down to the Sabi River and Matindela Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">247</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">IX.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch9" id="xd31e473">Fort Salisbury and the Old Workings and Ruins of the Mazoe Valley</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">279</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">X.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch10" id="xd31e484">Our Embassy to the Chief ’Mtoko</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">301</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">XI.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch11" id="xd31e495">The Ruined Cities in Mangwendi’s, Chipunza’s, and Makoni’s Countries</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">336</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">XII.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#ch12" id="xd31e506">The Journey to the Coast</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">361</td>
</tr>
</table><p>
</p>
<p>APPENDICES
</p>
<table class="tocList">
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">A.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#appa" id="xd31e521">Notes on the Geography and Meteorology of Mashonaland</a>, by R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">389</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">B.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#appb" id="xd31e533">List of Stations in Mashonaland Astronomically Observed, with Altitudes</a>, by R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">398</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">C.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#appc" id="xd31e545">Addenda to Chapter V.</a>, by R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">401</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum">D.</td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <span class="sc"><a href="#appd" id="xd31e557">Progress in Mashonaland summarised from November 1891 to May 1893</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">405</td>
</tr>
</table><p>
</p>
<p><a href="#ix" id="xd31e565">INDEX</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPageNum">413</span>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxv">[<a href="#pb.xxv">xxv</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 last-child contents"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
<table class="tocList">
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum xs">PAGE</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#frontispiece">Wooden Platter found in a Cave about Ten Miles from Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum"><i>Frontispiece</i></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p003">Mr. Theodore Bent</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p019">Making Thongs of Ox-hide</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">19</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p036">Wooden Pillow</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">36</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p037">Ancient Egyptian Pillow in the British Museum</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">37</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p038">Wooden Dollasses or Divining Tablets</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">38</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p039">Bone Dollasses</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">39</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p040">Gourds for Baling Water</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p041">Wooden Mortar, Bowl, and Porridge Bowl</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">41</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p044">Woman’s Girdle, with Cartridge Cases, Skin-scrapers, and Medicine Phials attached</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">44</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p045">Wooden Hair Comb, Chibi’s Country</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">45</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p046">Granary Decorated with Breast and Furrow Pattern</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">46</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p047">Wooden Pillow representing Human Form</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">47</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p048">Iron Skin-scraper, and Needles in Cases</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">48</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p061">Mrs. Theodore Bent</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">61</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p067">Umgabe and his Indunas</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">67</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p070">Hatchet</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">70</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p071">Carved Knives</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">71</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p072">Bone Ornaments</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">72</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p074">Wooden Snuff-boxes</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">74</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p077">Boy beating Drum</a></span> <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxvi">[<a href="#pb.xxvi">xxvi</a>]</span></td>
<td class="tocPageNum">77</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p078">Drum Decorated with ‘Breast and Furrow’ Pattern, and Plain Drum</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">78</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p080">Playing the Piano</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p081">Makalanga Piano</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">81</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p089">Hut at Umgabe’s Kraal with Euphorbia behind</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">89</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p091">At Cherumbila’s Kraal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">91</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p097">Ruin on the Lundi River</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p101">General View of Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">101</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p106">Main Entrance of Circular Ruin at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">106</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p107">Large Circular Ruin, Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">107</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p109">Pattern on Large Circular Ruin at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">109</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p113">Large Round Tower in Circular Ruin, Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">113</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p123">Round Tower and Monolith Decoration on the Fortress at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">123</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p125">Approach to the Acropolis</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">125</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p127">The Platform with Monoliths, etc., on the Fortress at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">127</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p133">Approach to the Fortress by the Cleft, Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">133</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p136">Baobab Tree in Matindela Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">136</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p137">Walled-up Entrance and Pattern on Matindela Ruins</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">137</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p143">Map of Zimbabwe District</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">143</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p149">The two Towers</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">149</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p150">Coin of Byblos showing the Round Tower</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">150</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p153">The Triple Walls at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">153</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p171">Within the Double Walls, Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">171</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p180">Soapstone Bird on Pedestal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">180</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p181">Soapstone Birds on Pedestals</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">181</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p183">Front and Back of a Broken Soapstone Bird on Pedestal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">183</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p184">Bird on Pedestal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">184</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p185">Bird on Pedestal from the Zodiac of Denderah</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">185</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p187">Miniature Birds on Pedestals</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">187</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p188">Ornate Phallus, Zimbabwe; and Phœnician Column in the Louvre</a></span> <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxvii">[<a href="#pb.xxvii">xxvii</a>]</span></td>
<td class="tocPageNum">188</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p190">Long Decorated Soapstone Beam in two Pieces</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">190</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p191">Decorated Soapstone Beams</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">191, 192</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p193">Collection of Strange Stones</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">193</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p194">Fragment of Bowl with Procession of Bulls</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">194</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p195">Fragment of Bowl with Hunting Scene</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">195</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p196">Bowl with Zebras</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">196</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p197">Fragment of Soapstone Bowl with Procession</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">197</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p198">Fragments of Soapstone Bowls with Ear of Corn and Lettering</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">198</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p199-1">Letters from Proto-Arabian Alphabet</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">199</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p199-2">Letters on a Rock in Bechuanaland, copied by Mr. A.&nbsp;A. Anderson</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">199</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p201">Soapstone Bowls</a></span> 200, </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">201</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p202-1">Fragment of Bowl with Knobs</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">202</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p202-2">Soapstone Cylinder from Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">202</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p203">Object from Temple of Paphos, Cyprus</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">203</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p205">Glass Beads, Celadon Pottery, Persian Pottery, and Arabian Glass</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">205</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p206">Fragment of Bowl of Glazed Pottery</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">206</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p207">Fragments of Pottery</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">207</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p208">Top of Pottery Bowl, Pottery Sow, and Whorls</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">208, 209</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p210">Weapons</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">210</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p211">Iron Bells and Bronze Spear-head</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">211, 212</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p213">Battle-axes and Arrows</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">213, 214</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p216">Gilt Spear-head</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">216</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p217">Tools</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">217</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p218">Ancient Spade</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">218</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p219">Soapstone Ingot Mould, Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">218</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p219-1">Ingot of Tin found in Falmouth Harbour</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">219</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p219-2">Soapstone Object</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">219</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p220">Bevelled Edge of Gold smelting Furnace</a></span> <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxviii">[<a href="#pb.xxviii">xxviii</a>]</span></td>
<td class="tocPageNum">220</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p221">Crucibles for Smelting Gold found at Zimbabwe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">221</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p222">Fragments of Pottery Blow-pipes from Furnace</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">222</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p249">Metzwandira</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">249</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p253-1">Chief’s Iron Sceptre, and Iron Razor</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">253</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p253-2">Rock near Makori Post Station</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">254</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p255">Knitted Bag</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">255</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p256">Larder Tree</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">256</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p257">Reed Snuff-boxes and Grease-holder</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">257</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p259">Decorated Hut Door</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">259</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p260">Straw Hat</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">260</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p262">Decorated Heads</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">262</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p271">Chief’s Tomb</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">271</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p274">Interior of a Hut</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">274</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p275">Household Store for Grain, with Native Drawings</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">275</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p276">Native Drawings</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">276</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p286">Native Bowl from the Mazoe Valley</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">286</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p293">Ruin in Mazoe Valley</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">293</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p297">Three Venetian Beads; one Copper Bead; three old White Venetian Beads; Bone Whorl,
Medicine Phials, and Bone Ornaments</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">297</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p304">Tattooed Women from Chibi’s, Gambidji’s, and Kunzi’s Countries</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">304</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p305">Wooden Bowl from Musungaikwa’s Kraal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">305</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p308">Makalanga Iron Smelting Furnace</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">308</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p309">Goatskin Bellows and Blow-pipe for Iron Smelting</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">309</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p310">Woman’s Dress of Woven Bark Fibre</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">310</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p313">Bracelets</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">313</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p316">Wooden Platter from Lutzi</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">316</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p320">Earring, Stud for the Lip, and Battle-axe</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">320</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p321">Powder-horn</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">321</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p322">A Collection of Combs</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">322</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p328">Wooden Spoon. Lutzi</a></span> <span class="pageNum" id="pb.xxix">[<a href="#pb.xxix">xxix</a>]</span></td>
<td class="tocPageNum">328</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p332">Bushman Drawings near ’Mtoko’s Kraal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">332, 333</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p338">Mangwendi’s Kraal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">338</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p345">Bushman Drawings from Nyanger Rock</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">345</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p349">Chipunza’s Kraal</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">349</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tocDivNum"></td>
<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"><span class="sc"><a href="#p358">Decorated Post</a></span> </td>
<td class="tocPageNum">358</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb1">[<a href="#pb1">1</a>]</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="body">
<div class="div0 part">
<h2 class="label">PART I</h2>
<h2 class="main">ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS</h2>
<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb3">[<a href="#pb3">3</a>]</span></p>
<div id="ch1" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e371">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER I</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>THE JOURNEY UP BY THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p003width" id="p003"><img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="MR. THEODORE BENT" width="282" height="391"><p class="figureHead">MR. THEODORE BENT</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>In a volume devoted to the ruined cities of Mashonaland I am loth to introduce remarks
in narrative form relating how we got to them and how we got away. Still, however,
the incidents of our journeyings to and fro offer certain features which may be interesting
from an anthropological point of view. The study of the natives and their customs
occupied our leisure moments when not digging at Zimbabwe or travelling too fast,
and a record of what we saw amongst them, comes legitimately, I think, within the
scope of our expedition.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb4">[<a href="#pb4">4</a>]</span></p>
<p>For the absence of narrative of sport in these pages I feel it hardly necessary to
apologise. So much has been done in this line by the colossal Nimrods who have visited
South Africa that any trifling experiences we may have had in this direction are not
worth the telling. My narrative is, therefore, entirely confined to the ruins and
the people; on other South African subjects I do not pretend to speak with any authority
whatsoever.
</p>
<p>Three societies subscribed liberally to our expedition—namely, the Royal Geographical
Society, the British Chartered Company of South Africa, and the British Association
for the Advancement of Science—without which aid I could never have undertaken a journey
of such proportions; and to the officers of the Chartered Company, with whom we naturally
came much in contact, I cannot tender thanks commensurate with their kindness; to
their assistance, especially in the latter part of our journey, when we had parted
company with our waggons and our comforts, we owe the fact that we were able to penetrate
into unexplored parts of the country without let or hindrance, and without more discomforts
than naturally arise from incidents of travel.
</p>
<p>Serious doubts as to the advisability of a lady undertaking such a journey were frequently
brought before us at the outset; fortified, however, by previous experience in Persia,
Asia Minor, and the Greek Islands, we hardly gave these doubts more than a passing
thought, and the event proved that they were <span class="pageNum" id="pb5">[<a href="#pb5">5</a>]</span>wholly unnecessary. My wife was the only one of our party who escaped fever, never
having a day’s illness during the whole year that we were away from home. She was
able to take a good many photographs under circumstances of exceptional difficulty,
and instead of being, as was prophesied, a burden to the expedition, she furthered
its interests and contributed to its ultimate success in more ways than one.
</p>
<p>Mr. Robert McNair Wilson Swan accompanied us in the capacity of cartographer; to him
I owe not only the plans which illustrate this volume, but also much kindly assistance
in all times of difficulty.
</p>
<p>We three left England at the end of January 1891, and returned to it again at the
end of January 1892, having accomplished a record rare in African travel, and of which
we are justly proud—namely, that no root of bitterness sprang up amongst us.
</p>
<p>We bought two waggons, thirty-six oxen, and heaps of tinned provisions at Kimberley.
These we conveyed by train to Vryberg, in Bechuanaland, which place we left on March
6. An uninteresting and uneventful ‘trek’ of a week brought us to Mafeking, where
we had to wait some time, owing to a deluge of rain, and from this point I propose
to commence the narrative of my observations.
</p>
<p>Bechuanaland is about as big as France, and a country which has been gradually coming
under the sphere of British influence since Sir Charles Warren’s campaign, and which
in a very few years must of <span class="pageNum" id="pb6">[<a href="#pb6">6</a>]</span>necessity be absorbed into the embryo empire which Mr. Cecil Rhodes hopes to build
up from the Lakes to Cape Town. At present there are three degrees of intensity of
British influence in Bechuanaland in proportion to the proximity to headquarters—firstly,
the Crown colony to the south, with its railway, its well-to-do settlements at Taungs,
Vryberg, and Mafeking, and with its native chiefs confined within certain limits;
secondly, the British protectorate to the north of this over such chiefs as Batuen,
Pilan, Linchwe, and Sechele, extending vaguely to the west into the Kalahari Desert,
and bounded by the Limpopo River and the Dutchmen on the east; thirdly, the independent
dominions of the native chief Khama, who rules over a vast territory to the north,
and whose interests are entirely British, for with their assistance only can he hope
to resist the attacks of his inveterate foe King Lobengula of Matabeleland.
</p>
<p>Two roads through Bechuanaland to Mashonaland were open to us from Mafeking: the shorter
one is by the river, which, after the rains, is muddy and fever-stricken; the other
is longer and less frequented; it passes through a corner of the Kalahari Desert,
and had the additional attraction of taking us through the capitals of all the principal
chiefs: consequently, we unhesitatingly chose it, and it is this which I now propose
to describe.
</p>
<p>We may dismiss the Crown colony of Bechuanaland with a few words. It differs little
from any <span class="pageNum" id="pb7">[<a href="#pb7">7</a>]</span>other such colony in South Africa, and the natives and their chiefs have little or
no identity left to them. Even the once famous Montsoia, chief of the Ba-rolongs of
Mafeking, has sunk into the lowest depths of servile submission; he receives a monthly
pension of 25l., which said sum he always puts under his pillow and sleeps upon; he
is avaricious in his old age, and dropsical, and surrounded by women who delight to
wrap their swarthy frames in gaudy garments from Europe. He is nominally a Christian,
and has been made an <abbr title="Friend of Ally Sloper">F.O.S.</abbr>, or Friend of Ally Sloper, and, as the latter title is more in accordance with his
tastes, he points with pride to the diploma which hangs on the walls of his hut.
</p>
<p>From Mafeking to Kanya, the capital of Batuen, chief of the Ba-Ngwatetse tribe, is
about eighty miles. At first the road is treeless, until the area is reached where
terminates the cutting down of timber for the support of the diamond mines at Kimberley,
a process which has denuded all southern Bechuanaland of trees, and is gradually creeping
north. The rains were not over when we started, and we found the road saturated with
moisture; and in two days, near the Ramatlabama River, our progress was just one mile,
in which distance our waggons had to be unloaded and dug out six times. But Bechuanaland
dries quickly, and in a fortnight after this we had nothing to drink but concentrated
mud, which made our tea and coffee so similar that it was impossible to tell the difference.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb8">[<a href="#pb8">8</a>]</span></p>
<p>On one occasion during our midday halt we had all our oxen inoculated with the virus
of the lung sickness, for this fatal malady was then raging in Khama’s country. Our
waggons were placed side by side, and with an ingenious contrivance of thongs our
conductor and driver managed to fasten the plunging animals by the horns, whilst a
string steeped in the virus was passed with a needle through their tails. Sometimes
after this process the tails swell and fall off; and up country a tailless ox has
a value peculiarly his own. It is always rather a sickly time for the poor beasts,
but as we only lost two out of thirty-six from this disease we voted inoculation successful.
</p>
<p>I think Kanya is the first place where one realises that one is in savage Africa.
Though it is under British protection it is only nominally so, to prevent the Boers
from appropriating it. Batuen, the chief, is still supreme, and, like his father,
Gasetsive, he is greatly under missionary influence. He has stuck up a notice on the
roadside at the entrance to the town in Sechuana, the language of the country, Dutch,
and English, which runs as follows: ‘I, Batuen, chief of Ba-Ngwatetse, hereby give
notice to my people, and all other people, that no waggons shall enter or leave Kanya
on Sunday. Signed, September 28th, 1889.’ If any one transgresses this law Batuen
takes an ox from each span, a transaction in which piety and profit go conveniently
hand in hand.
</p>
<p>Kanya is pleasantly situated amongst low hills <span class="pageNum" id="pb9">[<a href="#pb9">9</a>]</span>well clad with trees. It is a collection of huts divided into circular kraals hedged
in with palisades, four to ten huts being contained in each enclosure. These are again
contained in larger enclosures, forming separate communities, each governed by its
hereditary sub-chief, with its <i>kotla</i> or parliament circle in its midst. On the summit of the hill many acres are covered
with these huts, and there are also many in the valley below. Certain roughly-constructed
walls run round the hill, erected when the Boers threatened an invasion; but now these
little difficulties are past, and Batuen limits his warlike tendencies to quarrelling
with his neighbours on the question of a border line, a subject which never entered
their heads before the British influence came upon them.
</p>
<p>All ordinary matters of government and justice are discussed in the large <i>kotla</i> before the chief’s own hut; but big questions, such as the border question, are discussed
at large tribal gatherings in the open <i>veldt</i>. There was to be one of these gatherings of Batuen’s tribe near Kanya on the following
Monday, and we regretted not being able to stop and witness so interesting a ceremony.
</p>
<p>The town is quite one of the largest in Bechuanaland, and presents a curious appearance
on the summit of the hill. The <i>kotla</i> is about 200 feet in diameter, with shady trees in it, beneath which the monarch
sits to dispense justice. We passed an idle afternoon therein, watching with interest
the women <span class="pageNum" id="pb10">[<a href="#pb10">10</a>]</span>of Batuen’s household, naked save for a skin loosely thrown around them, lying on
rugs before the palace, and teaching the children to dance to the sound of their weird
music, and making the air ring with their merry laughter. In one corner Batuen’s slaves
were busy filling his granaries with maize just harvested. His soldiers paraded in
front of his house, and kept their suspicious eyes upon us as we sat; many of them
were quaintly dressed in red coats, which once had been worn by British troops, and
soft hats with ostrich feathers in them, whilst their black legs were bare.
</p>
<p>Ma-Batuen, the chief’s mother, received us somewhat coldly when we penetrated into
her hut; she is the chief widow of old Gasetsive, Batuen’s father, a noted warrior
in his day. The Sechuana tribes have very funny ideas about death, and never, if possible,
let a man die inside his hut; if he does accidentally behave so indiscreetly they
pull down the wall at the back to take the corpse out, as it must never go out by
the ordinary door, and the hut is usually abandoned. Gasetsive died in his own house,
so the wall had to be pulled down, and it has never been repaired, and is abandoned.
Batuen built himself a new palace, with a hut for his chief wife on his right, and
a hut for his mother on the left. His father’s funeral was a grand affair; all the
tribe assembled to lament the loss of their warrior chief, and he was laid to rest
in a lead coffin in the midst of his <i>kotla</i>. The superstitious of the tribe did not approve of the coffin, <span class="pageNum" id="pb11">[<a href="#pb11">11</a>]</span>and imagine that the soul may still be there making frantic efforts to escape.
</p>
<p>All the Ba-Ngwatetse are soldiers, and belong to certain regiments or years. When
a lot of the youths are initiated together into the tribal mysteries generally the
son of a chief is amongst them, and he takes the command of the regiment. In the old
ostrich-feather days Kanya was an important trading station, but now there is none
of this, and inasmuch as it is off the main road north, it is not a place of much
importance from a white man’s point of view, and boasts only of one storekeeper and
one missionary, both men of great importance in the place.
</p>
<p>After Kanya the character of the scenery alters, and you enter an undulating country
thickly wooded, and studded here and there with red granite <i>kopjes</i>, or gigantic boulders set in rich green vegetation, looking for all the world like
pre-Raphaelite Italian pictures. Beneath a long <i>kopje</i>, sixteen miles from Kanya, nestles Masoupa, the capital of a young chief, the son
of Pilan, who was an important man in his day, and broke off from his own chief Linchwe,
bringing his followers with him to settle in the Ba-Ngwatetse country as a sort of
sub-chief with nominal independence; it is a conglomeration of bee-hive huts, many
of them overgrown with gourds, difficult to distinguish from the mass of boulders
around them. When we arrived at Masoupa a dance was going on—a native Sechuana dance—in
consequence of the full moon and the rejoicings incident on an abundant <span class="pageNum" id="pb12">[<a href="#pb12">12</a>]</span>harvest. In the <i>kotla</i> some forty or more men had formed a circle, and were jumping round and round to the
sound of music. Evidently it was an old war dance degenerated; the sugar-cane took
the place of the assegai, many black legs were clothed in trousers, and many black
shoulders now wore coats; but there are still left as relics of the past the ostrich
feather in the hat, the fly whisk of horse, jackal, or other tail, the iron skin-scraper
round the neck, which represents the pocket-handkerchief amongst the Kaffirs with
which to remove perspiration; the flute with one or two holes, out of which each man
seems to produce a different sound; and around the group of dancing men old women
still circulate, as of yore, clapping their withered hands and encouraging festivity.
It was a sight of considerable picturesqueness amid the bee-hive huts and tall overhanging
rocks.
</p>
<p>Masoupa was once the residence of a missionary, but the church is now abandoned and
falling into ruins, because when asked to repair the edifice at their own expense
the men of Masoupa waxed wroth, and replied irreverently that God might repair His
own house; and one old man who received a blanket for his reward for attending divine
service is reported to have remarked, when the dole was stopped, ‘No more blanket,
no more hallelujah.’ I fear me the men of Masoupa are wedded to heathendom.
</p>
<p>The accession of Pilan to the chiefdom of Masoupa is a curious instance of the Sechuana
marriage laws. <span class="pageNum" id="pb13">[<a href="#pb13">13</a>]</span>A former chief’s heir was affianced young; he died at the age of eight, before succeeding
his father, and, according to custom, the next brother, Moshulilla, married the woman;
their son was Pilan, who, on coming of age, turned out his own father, being, as he
said, the rightful heir of the boy of eight, for whom he, Moshulilla, the younger
brother, had been instrumental in raising up seed. There is a distinct touch of Hebraic,
probably Semitic, law in this, as there is in many another Sechuana custom.
</p>
<p>The so-called purchase of a wife is curious enough in Bechuanaland. The intending
husband brings with him the number of bullocks he thinks the girl is worth; wisely,
he does not offer all his stock at once, leaving two or more, as the case may be,
at a little distance, for he knows the father will haggle and ask for an equivalent
for the girl’s keep during childhood, whereupon he will send for another bullock;
then the mother will come forward and demand something for lactation and other maternal
offices, and another bullock will have to be produced before the contract can be ratified.
In reality this apparent purchase of the wife is not so barefaced a thing as it seems,
for she is not a negotiable article and cannot again be sold; in case of divorce her
value has to be paid back, and her children, if the purchase is not made, belong to
her own family. Hence a woman who is not properly bought is in the condition of a
slave, whereas her purchased sister has rights which assure her a social standing.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb14">[<a href="#pb14">14</a>]</span></p>
<p>From Pilan’s the northward road becomes hideous again, and may henceforward be said
to be in the desert region of the Kalahari. This desert is not the waste of sand and
rock we are accustomed to imagine a desert should be, but a vast undulating expanse
of country covered with timber—the <i>mimosa</i>, or camel thorn, the <i>mapani</i> bush, and others which reach the water with their roots, though there are no ostensible
water sources above ground.
</p>
<p>The Kalahari is inhabited sparsely by a wild tribe known as the Ba-kalahari, of kindred
origin to the bushmen, whom the Dutch term <i lang="af">Vaal-pens</i>, or ‘Fallow-paunches,’ to distinguish them from the darker races. Their great skill
is in finding water, and in dry seasons they obtain it by suction through a reed inserted
into the ground, the results being spat into a gourd and handed to the thirsty traveller
to drink. Khama, Sechele, and Batuen divide this vast desert between them; how far
west it goes is unknown; wild animals rapidly becoming extinct elsewhere abound therein.
It is a vast limbo of uncertainty, which will necessarily become British property
when Bechuanaland is definitely annexed; possibly with a system of artesian wells
the water supply may be found adequate, and it may yet have a future before it when
the rest of the world is filled to overflowing.
</p>
<p>We saw a few of these children of the desert in our progress northwards; they are
timid and diffident in the extreme, always avoiding the haunts of the white man, and
always wandering hither and <span class="pageNum" id="pb15">[<a href="#pb15">15</a>]</span>thither where rain and water may be found. On their shoulders they carry a bark quiver
filled with poisoned arrows to kill their game. They produce fire by dexterously rubbing
two sticks together to make a spark. At nightfall they cut grass and branches to make
a shelter from the wind; they eat snakes, tortoises, and roots which they dig up with
sharp bits of wood, and the contents of their food bags is revolting to behold. They
pay tribute in kind to the above-mentioned chiefs—skins, feathers, tusks, or the <i>mahatla</i> berries used for making beer—and if these things are not forthcoming they take a
fine-grown boy and present him to the chief as his slave.
</p>
<p>Sechele is the chief of the Ba-quaina, or children of the <i>quaina</i>, or crocodile. Their <i>siboko</i>, or tribal object of veneration, is the crocodile, which animal they will not kill
or touch under any provocation whatsoever. The Ba-quaina are one of the most powerful
of the Bechuanaland feud tribes, and it often occurred to me, Can the name Bechuanaland,
for which nobody can give a satisfactory derivation, and of which the natives themselves
are entirely ignorant, be a corruption of this name? There have been worse corruptions
perpetrated by Dutch and English pioneers in savage lands, and Ba-quainaland would
have a derivation, whereas Bechuanaland has none.
</p>
<p>Sechele’s capital is on the hills above the river Molopolole, quite a flourishing
place, or rather group of places, on a high hill, with a curious valley or <span class="pageNum" id="pb16">[<a href="#pb16">16</a>]</span><i>kloof</i> beneath it, where the missionary settlement is by the river banks. Many villages
of daub huts are scattered over the hills amongst the red boulders and green vegetation.
In the largest, in quite a European-looking house, Sechele lives. Once this house
was fitted up for him in European style; it contained a glass chandelier, a sideboard,
a gazogene, and a table. In those days Sechele was a good man, and was led by his
wife to church; but, alas! this good lady died, and her place was supplied by a rank
heathen, who would have none of her predecessor’s innovations. Now Sechele is very
old and very crippled, and he lies amid the wreck of all his European grandeur; chandelier,
sideboard, gazogene, are all in ruins like himself, and he is as big a heathen and
as big a sinner as ever wore a crown. So much for the influence of women over their
husbands, even when they are black.
</p>
<p>Sebele, the heir apparent, does all the executive work of the country now, and the
old man is left at home to chew his sugar-cane and smoke his pipe. Around the villages
and in the hollow below the native gardens or fields are very fertile; maize, kaffir
corn, sugar-cane, grow here in abundance, and out of the tall reeds black women came
running to look at us as we passed by, whose daily duty it is at this season of the
year to act as scarecrows, and save their crops from the birds. Beneath the corn and
mealies they grow gourds and beans, and thereby thoroughly exhaust the soil, which,
after a season or <span class="pageNum" id="pb17">[<a href="#pb17">17</a>]</span>two, is left fallow for a while; and if the ground becomes too bad around a town they
think nothing of moving their abodes elsewhere, a town being rarely established in
one place for more than fifty years.
</p>
<p>From Sechele’s town to Khama’s old capital, Shoshong, is a weary journey of over a
hundred and thirty miles through the Kalahari Desert, and through that everlasting
bush of mimosa thorn, which rose like impenetrable walls on either side of us. Along
this road there is hardly any rising ground; hence it is impossible to see anything
for more than a few yards around one, unless one is willing to brave the dangers of
penetrating the bush, returning to the camp with tattered garments and ruffled temper,
if return you can, for when only a few yards from camp it is quite possible to become
hopelessly lost, and many are the stories of deaths and disappearances in this way,
and of days of misery spent by travellers in this bush without food or shelter, unable
to retrace their steps. The impenetrableness of this jungle in some places is almost
unbelievable: the bushes of ‘wait-a-bit’ thorn are absolutely impossible to get through;
every tree of every description about here seems armed by nature with its own defence,
and lurking in the grass is the ‘grapple plant,’ the <i lang="la">Harpagophytum procumbens</i>, whose crablike claws tear the skin in a most painfully subtle way. The mimosas of
many different species which form the bulk of the trees in this bush are also terribly
thorny; the Dutch call them camel thorns, because the giraffes, or, as they call them,
the <span class="pageNum" id="pb18">[<a href="#pb18">18</a>]</span>camel leopards, feed thereon. Why the Dutch should be so perverse in the naming of
animals I never can discover; to them the hyæna is the wolf, the leopard is the tiger,
the kori-bustard is the peacock, and many similar anomalies occur.
</p>
<p>The botanist or the naturalist might here enjoy every hour of his day. The flowers
are lovely, and animal life is here seen in many unaccustomed forms, there are the
quaint, spire-like ant-hills tapering to pinnacles of fifteen feet in height; the
clustered nests of the ‘family bird,’ where hundreds live together in a sort of exaggerated
honeycomb; the huge yellow and black spiders, which weave their webs from tree to
tree of material like the fresh silk of the silkworm, which, with the dew and the
morning sun upon it, looks like a gauze curtain suspended in the air. There are, too,
the deadly puff adders, the night adders, and things creeping innumerable, the green
tree snake stealthily moving like a coil of fresh-cut grass; and wherever there is
a rocky <i lang="af">kopje</i> you are sure to hear at nightfall the hideous screams of the baboons, coupled with
the laugh of the jackal. But if you are not a naturalist these things pall upon you
after the sensation has been oft repeated, and this was the case with us.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p019width" id="p019"><img src="images/p019.png" alt="MAKING THONGS OF OX-HIDE" width="510" height="482"><p class="figureHead">MAKING THONGS OF OX-HIDE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The monotony of the journey would now and again be relieved by a cattle station, where
the servants of Sechele or Khama rear cattle for their chiefs; and these always occur
in the proximity of water, which we hailed with delight, even if it was <span class="pageNum" id="pb19">[<a href="#pb19">19</a>]</span>only a muddy <i>vley</i>, or pond, trampled by the hoofs of many oxen. These cattle stations are generally
large circular enclosures surrounded by a palisade, with a tree in the middle, beneath
which the inhabitants sit stitching at their carosses, or skin rugs, in splendid nudity.
All manner of skins hang around; hunks of meat in process of drying; hide thongs are
fastened from branch to branch like spiders’ webs, which they stretch on the branches
to make ‘reims’ <span class="pageNum" id="pb20">[<a href="#pb20">20</a>]</span>for waggon harness; consequently the air is not too fragrant, and the flies an insupportable
nuisance.
</p>
<p>One evening we reached one of these kraals after dark, and a weird and picturesque
sight it was. Having penetrated through the outer hedge, where the cattle were housed
for the night, we reached inner enclosures occupied by the families and their huts.
They sat crouching over their fires, eating their evening meal of porridge, thrusting
long sticks into the pot, and transferring the stiff paste to their mouths. In spite
of the chilliness of the evening, they were naked, save for a loin-cloth and their
charms and amulets. A man stood near, playing on an instrument like a bow with one
string, with a gourd attached to bring out the sound. He played it with a bit of wood,
and the strains were plaintive, if not sweet.
</p>
<p>Another night we reached a pond called Selynia, famed all the country round, and a
great point of rendezvous for hunters who are about to penetrate the desert. In this
pond we intended to do great things in the washing line, and tarry a whole day for
this purpose; but it was another disappointment to add to the many we had experienced
on this road, for it was nothing but a muddy puddle trampled by oxen, from which we
had difficulty in extracting enough liquid to fill our barrels. Needless to say, we
did not stay for our proposed washing day, but hurried on.
</p>
<p>It was a great relief to reach the hills of Shoshong, the larger trees, the cactus-like
euphorbia, and the richer vegetation, after the long flat stretch of <span class="pageNum" id="pb21">[<a href="#pb21">21</a>]</span>waterless bush-covered desert, and we were just now within the tropic of Capricorn.
The group of hills is considerable, reaching an elevation of about 800 feet, and with
interesting views from the summits. In a deep ravine amongst these hills lie the ruins
of the town of Shoshong, the quondam capital of the chief Khama and the Ba-mangwato
tribe. It is an interesting illustration of the migratory spirit of the race. The
question of moving had long been discussed by Khama and his head men, but the European
traders and missionaries at Shoshong thought it would never take place. They built
themselves houses and stores, and lived contentedly.
</p>
<p>Suddenly, one day, now three years ago, without any prefatory warning, Khama gave
orders for the move, and the exodus commenced on the following morning. The rich were
exhorted to lend their waggons and their beasts of burden to the poor. Each man helped
his neighbour, and, in two months, 15,000 individuals were located in their new home
at Palapwe, about sixty miles away, where water is plentiful and the soil exceedingly
rich. Thus was Shoshong abandoned. Scarcity of water was the immediate cause of the
migration, for there was only one slender stream to water the whole community, and
whole rows of women with their jars would stand for hours awaiting their turn to fill
them from the source up the valley, which in the dry season barely trickled.
</p>
<p>Everything was arranged by Khama in the most beautiful manner. He and his head men
had been <span class="pageNum" id="pb22">[<a href="#pb22">22</a>]</span>over at Palapwe for some time, and had arranged the allotments, so that every one
on his arrival went straight to the spot appointed, built his hut, and surrounded
it with a palisade. Not a murmur or a dispute arose amongst them. In reality it was
the knowledge of British support which enabled Khama to carry out this plan. Shoshong,
in its rocky ravine, is admirably situated for protection from the Matabele raids.
When a rumour of the enemy’s approach was received, the women and children were hurried
off with provisions to the caves above the town, whilst Khama and his soldiers protected
the entrance to the ravine. Palapwe, on the contrary, is open and indefensible, and
would be at once exposed to the raids of Lobengula were it not for the camp of the
Bechuanaland Border Police at Macloutsie, and the openly avowed support of Great Britain.
</p>
<p>The desolate aspect of the ruined town, as seen to-day, is exceedingly odd. The compounds
or enclosures are all thickly overgrown with the castor-oil plant. The huts have,
in most cases, tumbled in; some show only walls, with the chequered and diaper patterns
still on them so beloved by the inhabitants of Bechuanaland; others are mere skeleton
huts, with only the framework left. The poles which shut in the cattle kraals have,
in many instances, sprouted, and present the appearance of curious circular groves
dedicated to some deity. The brick houses of European origin are the most lasting,
the old stores and abodes of traders, but even these can now hardly be approached
<span class="pageNum" id="pb23">[<a href="#pb23">23</a>]</span>by reason of the thick thorn bushes which, in so short a space of time, have grown
up around them. Far up the ravine is the missionary’s house, itself a ruin overlooking
the ruined town. Baboons, and owls, and vicious wasps now inhabit the rooms where
Moffat lived and Livingstone stayed. There is not a vestige of human life now to be
seen within miles of Shoshong, which was, three years ago, the capital of one of the
most enlightened chiefs of South Africa.
</p>
<p>I must say I looked forward with great interest to seeing a man with so wide a reputation
for integrity and enlightenment as Khama has in South Africa. Somehow, one’s spirit
of scepticism is on the alert on such occasions, especially when a negro is the case
in point; and I candidly admit that I advanced towards Palapwe fully prepared to find
the chief of the Ba-mangwato a rascal and a hypocrite, and that I left his capital,
after a week’s stay there, one of his most fervent admirers.
</p>
<p>Not only has Khama himself established his reputation for honesty, but he is supposed
to have inoculated all his people with the same virtue. No one is supposed to steal
in Khama’s country. He regulates the price of the goat you buy; and the milk vendor
dare not ask more than the regulation price, nor can you get it for less. One evening,
on our journey from Shoshong to Palapwe, we passed a loaded waggon by the roadside
with no one to guard it save a dog; and surely, we thought, such confidence as this
implies <span class="pageNum" id="pb24">[<a href="#pb24">24</a>]</span>a security for property rare enough in South Africa.
</p>
<p>The aspect of Palapwe is very pleasant. Fine timber covers the hill slopes. A large
grassy square, shaded by trees, and with a stream running through it, has been devoted
to the outspanning of the many waggons which pass through here. There are as yet but
few of those detestable corrugated-iron houses, for the Europeans have wisely elected
to dwell in daub huts, like the natives. Scattered far and wide are the clusters of
huts in their own enclosures, governed by their respective <i>indunas</i>.
</p>
<p>High up on the hillside Khama has allotted the choicest spot of all to his spiritual
and political adviser, Mr. Hepburn, the missionary. From here a lovely view extends
over mountain and plain, over granite <i>kopje</i> and the meandering river-bed, far away into the blue distance and the Kalahari. Behind
the mission house is a deep ravine, thick set with tropical vegetation, through which
a stream runs, called Fotofoto, which at the head of the gorge leaps over steep rocks,
and forms a lovely cascade of well-nigh a hundred feet; behind the ravine, on the
rocky heights, baboons and other wild animals still linger, perturbed in mind, no
doubt, at this recent occupation of their paradise.
</p>
<p>Everything in Khama’s town is conducted with the rigour—one might almost say bigotry—of
religious enthusiasm. The chief conducts in person native services, twice every Sunday,
in his large round <span class="pageNum" id="pb25">[<a href="#pb25">25</a>]</span><i>kotla</i>, at which he expects a large attendance. He stands beneath the traditional tree of
justice, and the canopy of heaven, quite in a patriarchal style. He has a system of
espionage by which he learns the names of those who do not keep Sunday properly, and
he punishes them accordingly. He has already collected 3,000<i>l.</i> for a church which is to be built at Palapwe.
</p>
<p>The two acts, however, which more than anything else display the power of the man,
and perhaps his intolerance, are these. Firstly, he forbids all his subjects to make
or drink beer. Any one who knows the love of a Kaffir for his porridge-like beer,
and his occasional orgies, will realise what a power one man must have to stop this
in a whole tribe. Even the missionaries have remonstrated with him on this point,
representing the measure as too strong; but he replies, ‘Beer is the source of all
quarrels and disputes. I will stop it.’ Secondly, he has put a stop altogether to
the existence of witch doctors and their craft throughout all the Ba-mangwato—another
instance of his force of will, when one considers that the national religion of the
Sechuana is merely a belief in the existence of good and bad spirits which haunt them
and act on their lives. All members of other neighbouring tribes are uncomfortable
if they are not charmed by their witch doctor every two or three days.
</p>
<p>Like the other Bechuana tribes, the Ba-mangwato have a <i>totem</i> which they once revered. Theirs is the <span class="pageNum" id="pb26">[<a href="#pb26">26</a>]</span><i>duyker</i>, a sort of roebuck; and Khama’s father, old Sikkome, would not so much as step on
a <i>duyker</i>-skin. Khama will now publicly eat a steak of that animal to encourage his men to
shake off their belief. In manner the chief is essentially a gentleman, courteous
and dignified. He rides a good deal, and prides himself on his stud. On one occasion
he did what I doubt if every English gentleman would do. He sold a horse for a high
price, which died a few days afterwards, whereupon Khama returned the purchase money,
considering that the illness had been acquired previous to the purchase taking place.
On his waggons he has painted in English, ‘Khama, Chief of the Ba-mangwato.’ They
say he understands a great deal of our tongue, but he never trusts himself to speak
it, <span class="corr" id="xd31e1684" title="Source: alw ays">always</span> using an interpreter.
</p>
<p>An instance of Khama’s system of discipline came under our notice during our stay
at Palapwe. Attracted by the sound of bugles, I repaired very early one morning to
the <i>kotla</i>, and there saw men in all sorts of quaint dresses, with arms, and spades, and picks,
mustering to the number of about 200. On enquiry, I was told that it was a regiment
which had misbehaved and displeased the chief in some way. The punishment he inflicted
on them was this: that for a given period they were to assemble every day and go and
work in the fields, opening out new land for the people. There is something Teutonic
in Khama’s imperial discipline, but the Bechuana are made of different stuff to the
Germans. They are by <span class="pageNum" id="pb27">[<a href="#pb27">27</a>]</span>nature peaceful and mild, a race with strong pastoral habits, who have lived for years
in dread of Matabele raids; consequently their respect for a chief like Khama—who
has actually on one occasion repulsed the foe, and who has established peace, prosperity,
and justice in all his borders—is unbounded, and his word is law.
</p>
<p>Khama pervades everything in his town. He is always on horseback, visiting the fields,
the stores, and the outlying kraals. He has a word for every one; he calls every woman
‘my daughter,’ and every man ‘my son;’ he pats the little children on the head. He
is a veritable father of his people, a curious and unaccountable outcrop of mental
power and integrity amongst a degraded and powerless race. His early history and struggles
with his father and brothers are thrilling in the extreme, and his later development
extraordinary. Perhaps he may be said to be the only negro living whose biography
would repay the writing.
</p>
<p>The blending of two sets of ideas, the advance of the new and the remains of the old,
are curiously conspicuous at Palapwe, and perhaps the women illustrate this better
than the men. On your evening walk you may meet the leading black ladies of the place,
parasol in hand, with hideous dresses of gaudy cottons, hats with flowers and feathers,
and displaying as they walk the airs and graces of self-consciousness. A little further
on you meet the women of the lower orders returning from the fields, with baskets
<span class="pageNum" id="pb28">[<a href="#pb28">28</a>]</span>on their heads filled with green pumpkins, bright yellow mealy pods, and rods of sugar
cane. A skin caross is thrown over their shoulders, and the rest of their mahogany-coloured
bodies is nude, save for a leopard-skin loin-cloth, and armlets and necklaces of bright
blue beads. Why is it that civilisation is permitted to destroy all that is picturesque?
Surely we, of the nineteenth century, have much to answer for in this respect, and
the missionaries who teach races, accustomed to nudity by heredity, that it is a good
and proper thing to wear clothes are responsible for three evils—firstly, the appearance
of lung diseases amongst them; secondly, the spread of vermin amongst them; and thirdly,
the disappearance from amongst them of inherent and natural modesty.
</p>
<p>It had been arranged that on our departure from Palapwe we should take twenty-five
of Khama’s men to act as excavators at the ruins of Zimbabwe. One morning, at sunrise,
when we were just rising from our waggons, and indulging in our matutinal yawns, Khama’s
arrival was announced. The chief walked in front, dignified and smart, dressed in
well-made boots, trousers with a correct seam down each side, an irreproachable coat,
a billycock hat, and gloves. If Khama has a vice it is that of dress, and, curiously
enough, this vice has developed more markedly in his son and heir, who is to all intents
and purposes a black masher and nothing else. Khama is a neatly-made, active man of
sixty, who might easily pass for twenty years younger; his face sparkles with intelligence;
<span class="pageNum" id="pb29">[<a href="#pb29">29</a>]</span>he is, moreover, shrewd, and looks carefully after the interests of his people, who
in days scarcely yet gone by have been wretchedly cheated by unscrupulous traders.
Behind him, in a long line, walked the twenty-five men that he proposed to place at
our disposal, strangely enough dressed in what might be termed the ‘transition style.’
Ostrich feathers adorned all their hats. One wore a short cutaway coat, which came
down to the small of his back, and nothing else. Another considered himself sufficiently
garbed with a waistcoat and a fly whisk. They formed a curious collection of humanity,
and all twenty-five sat down in a row at a respectful distance, whilst we parleyed
with the chief. Luckily for us our negotiations fell through owing to the difficulties
of transport; and, on inspection, I must say I felt doubtful as to their capabilities.
Away from the influence of their chief, and in a strange country, I feel sure they
would have given us endless trouble.
</p>
<p>We left Khama and his town with regret on our journey northwards. A few miles below
Palapwe we crossed the Lotsani River, a series of semi-stagnant pools, even after
the rainy season, many of which pools were gay just then with the lotus or blue water
lily (<i lang="la">Nymphæa stellata</i>). The water percolates through the sand, which has almost silted it up, and a little
further on we came across what they call a ‘sand river.’ Not a trace of water is to
be seen in the sandy bed, but, on digging down a few feet, you come across it.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb30">[<a href="#pb30">30</a>]</span></p>
<p>The future colonisation and development of this part of Bechuanaland is dependent
on the question of water, pure and simple. If artesian wells can be sunk, if water
can be stored in reservoirs, something may be done; but, at present, even the few
inhabitants of Khama’s country are continually plunged in misery from drought.
</p>
<p>North of Palapwe we met but few inhabitants, and, after passing the camp of the Bechuanaland
Border Police at Macloutsie, we entered what is known as the ‘debatable country,’
between the territories of Khama and Lobengula, and claimed by both. It is, at present,
uninhabited and unproductive, flat and uninteresting, and continues as far as Fort
Tuli, on the Shashi River, after crossing which we entered the country which comes
under the direct influence of Lobengula, the vaguely defined territory which under
the name of Mashonaland is now governed by the Chartered Company.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb31">[<a href="#pb31">31</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch2" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e382">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER II</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MASHONALAND</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">We left Fort Tuli on May 9, 1891, and for the ensuing six months we sojourned in what
is now called Mashonaland; of our doings therein and of our wanderings this volume
purports to be the narrative. Besides our excavations and examinations into the ruins
of a past civilisation, the treatment of which is necessarily dry and special, and,
for the benefit of those who care not about such things, has been, as far as possible,
confined within the limits of Part II., we had ample time for studying the race which
now inhabits the country, inasmuch as we employed over fifty of them during our excavations
at Zimbabwe, and during our subsequent wanderings we had them as bearers, and we were
brought into intimate relationship with most of their chiefs. The Chartered Company
throughout the whole of this period kept us supplied with interpreters of more or
less intelligence, who greatly facilitated our intercourse with the natives, and as
time went by a certain portion of the language found its way into <span class="pageNum" id="pb32">[<a href="#pb32">32</a>]</span>our own brains, which was an assistance to us in guiding conversations and checking
romance.
</p>
<p>All the people and tribes around Zimbabwe, down to the Sabi River and north to Fort
Charter—and this is the most populous part of the whole country—call themselves by
one name, though they are divided into many tribes, and that name is Makalanga. In
answer to questions as to nationality they invariably call themselves Makalangas,
in contradistinction to the Shangans, who inhabit the east side of the Sabi River.
‘You will find many Makalangas there,’ ‘A Makalanga is buried there,’ and so on. The
race is exceedingly numerous, and certain British and Dutch pioneers have given them
various names, such as Banyai and Makàlaka, which latter they imagine to be a Zulu
term of reproach for a limited number of people who act as slaves and herdsmen for
the Matabele down by the Shashi and Lundi Rivers. I contend that all these people
call themselves Makalángas, and that their land should by right be called Makalangaland.
</p>
<p>In this theory, formed on the spot from intercourse with the natives, I was glad to
find afterwards that I am ably supported by the Portuguese writer Father dos Santos,
to whom frequent allusion will be made in these pages. He says, ‘The Monomatapa and
all his vassals are Mocarangas, a name which they have because they live in the land
of Mocaranga, and talk the language called Mocaranga, which is the best <span class="pageNum" id="pb33">[<a href="#pb33">33</a>]</span>and most polished of all Kaffir languages which I have seen in this Ethiopia.’ Couto,
another Portuguese writer, bears testimony to the same point, and every one knows
the tendency of the Portuguese to substitute <i>r</i> for <i>l</i>. Umtali is called by the Portuguese Umtare;<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e1731src" href="#xd31e1731">1</a> ‘blanco’ is ‘branco’ in Portuguese, and numerous similar instances could be adduced;
hence with this small Portuguese variant the names are identical. Father Torrend,
in his late work on this part of the country, states, ‘The Karanga certainly have
been for centuries the paramount tribe of the vast empire of Monomatapa,’ and the
best derivation that suggests itself is the initial Ma or Ba, ‘children,’ ka, ‘of,’
langa, ‘the sun.’ They are an Abantu race, akin to the Zulus, only a weaker branch
whose day is over. Several tribes of Bakalanga came into Natal in 1720, forced down
by the powerful Zulu hordes, with traditions of having once formed a part of a powerful
tribe further north. Three centuries and a half ago, when the Portuguese first visited
the country, they were then all-powerful in this country, and were ruled over by a
chief with the dynastic name of Monomatapa, which community split up, like all Kaffir
combinations do after a generation or so, into a hopeless state of disintegration.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e1738src" href="#xd31e1738">2</a> <span class="pageNum" id="pb34">[<a href="#pb34">34</a>]</span>Each petty chief still has his high-sounding dynastic name, like the Monomatapa or
the Pharaoh of his day. Chibi, M’tegeza, M’toko, and countless lesser names are as
hereditary as the chiefdoms themselves, and each chief, as he succeeds, drops his
own identity and takes the tribal appellative. Such, briefly, is the political aspect
of the country we are about to enter.
</p>
<p>This is a strange, weird country to look upon, and after the flat monotony of Bechuanaland
a perfect paradise. The granite hills are so oddly fantastic in their forms; the deep
river-beds so richly luxuriant in their wealth of tropical vegetation; the great baobab
trees, the elephants of the vegetable world, so antediluvian in their aspect. Here
one would never be surprised to come across the roc’s egg of Sindbad or the golden
valley of Rasselas; the dreams of the old Arabian story-tellers here seem to have
a reality.
</p>
<p>Our first real intercourse with the natives was at a lovely spot called Inyamanda,
where we ‘outspanned’ on a small plain surrounded by domed granite <i>kopjes</i>, near the summit of one of which is a cluster of villages.
</p>
<p>Here we unpacked our beads and our cloth, and commenced African trading in real earnest;
what money we had we put away in our boxes, and never wanted it again during our stay
in the country. The naked natives swarmed around us like flies, with grain, flour,
sour milk, and honey, which commodities can be acquired for a few beads; but for a
sheep <span class="pageNum" id="pb35">[<a href="#pb35">35</a>]</span>they wanted a blanket, for meat is scarce enough and valuable amongst this much-raided
people. We lost an ox here by one of the many sicknesses fatal to cattle in this region,
and the natives hovered round him like vultures till the breath was out of his body;
they then fell on him and tore him limb from limb, and commenced their detestable
orgy. As one watched them eat, one could imagine that it is not so many generations
since they emerged from a state of cannibalism.
</p>
<p>We found it a tough climb to the villages through the luxuriant verdure of cactus-like
euphorbia, india-rubber tree, the castor-oil, and acacia with lovely red flowers.
At an elevation of five hundred feet above our waggons were the mud huts of the people,
and up here every night they drive their cattle into extraordinary rock stables for
safety. Perched on the rocks are countless circular granaries, constructed of bright
red mud and thatched with grass. One would think that a good storm of wind would blow
them all away, so frail do they seem.
</p>
<p>Rounding a corner of the hill we came across a second village, nestling amongst stupendous
boulders, and ascending again a little higher we reached a third by means of a natural
tunnel in the rock, fortified, despite its inaccessible position, with palisades.
</p>
<p>The natives were somewhat shy of us, and fled to rocky eyries from whence to contemplate
us, seated in rows in all sorts of uncomfortable angles, for all <span class="pageNum" id="pb36">[<a href="#pb36">36</a>]</span>the world like monkeys. They are utterly unaccustomed to postures of comfort, reclining
at night-time on a grass mat on the hard ground, with their necks resting on a wooden
pillow, curiously carved; they are accustomed to decorate their hair so fantastically
with tufts ornamentally arranged and tied up with beads that they are afraid of destroying
the effect, and hence these pillows.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p036width" id="p036"><img src="images/p036.jpg" alt="WOODEN PILLOW" width="526" height="415"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN PILLOW</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>These pillows are many of them pretty objects, and decorated with curious patterns,
the favourite one being the female breast, and resting on legs which had evidently
been evolved out of the human form. <span class="pageNum" id="pb37">[<a href="#pb37">37</a>]</span>They bear a close and curious resemblance to the wooden head-rests used by the Egyptians
in their tombs to support the head of the deceased, specimens of which are seen in
the British Museum. They are common all over Africa, and elsewhere amongst savage
tribes where special attention is paid to the decoration of the hair.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p037width" id="p037"><img src="images/p037.jpg" alt="ANCIENT EGYPTIAN PILLOW IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM" width="385" height="461"><p class="figureHead">ANCIENT EGYPTIAN PILLOW IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>A Makalanga is by nature vain, and particular about the appearance of his nudity;
the ladies have fashions in beads and cloths, like our ladies at home, <span class="pageNum" id="pb38">[<a href="#pb38">38</a>]</span>and before visiting a fresh kraal our men used to love to polish themselves like mahogany,
by chewing the monkey-nut and rubbing their skins with it, good-naturedly doing each
other’s backs and inaccessible corners. Somehow they know what becomes them too, twisting
tin ornaments, made from our meat tins, into their black hair. Just now they will
have nothing but red beads with white eyes, which they thread into necklaces and various
ornaments, and which look uncommonly well on their dark skins; and though it seems
somewhat paradoxical to say so of naked savages, yet I consider no one has better
taste in dress than they have until a hybrid civilisation is introduced amongst them.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p038width" id="p038"><img src="images/p038.jpg" alt="WOODEN DOLLASSES OR DIVINING TABLETS" width="541" height="334"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN DOLLASSES OR DIVINING TABLETS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>From many of the huts at Inyamanda were hanging <span class="pageNum" id="pb39">[<a href="#pb39">39</a>]</span>their <i>dollasses</i>—wooden charms, on which are drawn strange figures. Each family possesses a set of
four tied together by a string. Of these four one always has a curious conventional
form of a lizard carved on it; others have battle axes, diamond patterns, and so forth,
invariably repeating themselves, and the purport of which I was never able to ascertain.
They are common amongst all the Abantu races, and closely bound up with their occult
belief in witchcraft; they are chiefly made of wood, but sometimes neat little ones
of bone are found, a set of which I afterwards obtained.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p039width" id="p039"><img src="images/p039.jpg" alt="BONE DOLLASSES" width="281" height="141"><p class="figureHead">BONE DOLLASSES</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>On the evening of the new moon they will seat themselves in a circle, and the village
witch doctor will go round, tossing each man’s set of dollasses in the air, and by
the way they turn up he will divine the fortune of the individual for the month that
is to come.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p040width" id="p040"><img src="images/p040.jpg" alt="GOURDS FOR BALING WATER" width="293" height="512"><p class="figureHead">GOURDS FOR BALING WATER</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>There are many odds and ends of interest scattered about a Makalanga village; there
is the drum, from two to four feet in height, covered with zebra or other skin, platted
baskets for straining beer, and <span class="pageNum" id="pb40">[<a href="#pb40">40</a>]</span>long-handled gourds, with queer diagonal patterns in black done upon them, which serve
as ladles. Most of their domestic implements are made of wood—wooden pestles and wooden
mortars for crushing grain, wooden spoons and wooden platters often decorated with
pretty zigzag patterns. Natural objects, too, are largely used for personal ornaments.
Anklets and necklaces are made out of mimosa pods; necklaces, really quite pretty
to look upon, are constructed <span class="pageNum" id="pb41">[<a href="#pb41">41</a>]</span>out of chicken bones; birds’ claws and beaks, and the seeds of various plants, are
constantly employed for the same purpose. Grass is neatly woven into chaplets, and
a Makalanga is never satisfied unless he has a strange bird’s feather stuck jauntily
in his woolly locks.
</p>
<div class="table" id="p041">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td rowspan="2" class="rowspan cellLeft cellTop cellBottom vam">
<div class="figure p041-1width"><img src="images/p041-1.png" alt="WOODEN MORTAR" width="143" height="261"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN MORTAR</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop vam">
<div class="figure p041-2width"><img src="images/p041-2.png" alt="WOODEN BOWL" width="161" height="92"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN BOWL</p>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellRight cellBottom vam">
<div class="figure p041-3width"><img src="images/p041-3.png" alt="WOODEN PORRIDGE BOWL" width="130" height="150"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN PORRIDGE BOWL</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Never shall I forget the view from the summit of Inyamanda Rock over the country ruled
over by the chief Matipi; the horizon is cut by countless odd-peaked <i>kopjes</i>, some like spires, some like domes, grey and weird, rising out of rich vegetation,
getting bluer and bluer in the far distance, and there is always something indescribably
rich about the blueness of an African distance. As we descended we passed a wide-spreading
tree hung with rich yellow maize pods drying in the sun. Here, too, the bright coral
red flowers of the <i lang="la">Erythrina kaffra</i> were <span class="pageNum" id="pb42">[<a href="#pb42">42</a>]</span>just coming out. Richness of colour seemed to pervade everything.
</p>
<p>It was immediately on crossing the Lundi River, the threshold of the country as it
were, that we were introduced to the first of the long series of ancient ruins which
formed the object of our quest. By diligent search amongst the gigantic remains at
Zimbabwe we were able to repeople this country with a race highly civilised in far
distant ages, a race far advanced in the art of building and decorating, a gold-seeking
race who occupied it like a garrison in the midst of an enemy’s country. Surely Africa
is a mysterious and awe-inspiring continent, and now in the very heart of it has been
found work for the archæologist, almost the very last person who a short time ago
would have thought of penetrating its vast interior. <i lang="la">Quid novi ex Africa?</i> will not be an obsolete phrase for many generations yet to come.
</p>
<p>The Lundi River was the only one of the great rivers which flow through this portion
of the country which gave us any real trouble. Our waggons had to be unloaded and
our effects carried across in a boat, and the waggons dragged through the rushing
stream by both teams of oxen; it was an exciting scene, and the place was crowded
with people in the same condition as ourselves. On reaching the left bank we halted
in a shady spot, and encamped for two days, in order to give our oxen rest and to
study the ruin. It was a very charming spot, with fine rocky <i>kopjes</i> here and there, rich vegetation, and the dull <span class="pageNum" id="pb43">[<a href="#pb43">43</a>]</span>roar of the fine stream about fifty feet below us. From one of the <i>kopjes</i> we got a lovely view up the river, over the thickly wooded flats on either side and
the Bufwa range of mountains beyond.
</p>
<p>The country beyond the Lundi is thickly populated, with native villages perched on
rocky heights, many of which we saw as we wended our slow way through the Naka pass.
One hill is inhabited by a tribe of human beings, the next by a tribe of baboons,
and I must say these aborigines of the country on the face of it seem more closely
allied to one another than they are to the race of white men, who are now appropriating
the territory of both. The natives, living as they do in their hill-set villages on
the top of the granite <i>kopjes</i>, are nimble as goats, cowardly yet friendly to the white stranger. They are constantly
engaged in intertribal wars, stealing each other’s women and cattle when opportunity
occurs, and never dreaming of uniting against the common enemy, the Zulu, during whose
periodical raids they perch themselves on the top of their inaccessible rocks, and
look down complacently on the burning of their huts, the pillaging of their granaries,
and the appropriation of their cattle. Under the thick jungle of trees by the roadside
as we passed along we saw many acres under cultivation for the produce of sweet potatoes,
beans, and the ground or monkey nut (<i lang="la">Arachis</i>). They make long neat furrows with their hoes beneath the trees, the shade of which
is necessary for their crops. They are an essentially industrious race, far more so
<span class="pageNum" id="pb44">[<a href="#pb44">44</a>]</span>than the Kaffirs of our South African colonies. Here the men work in the fields, leaving
the women to make pots, build granaries, and carry water. In the Colony women are
the chief agriculturists.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p044width" id="p044"><img src="images/p044.jpg" alt="WOMAN’S GIRDLE, WITH CARTRIDGE CASES, SKIN-SCRAPERS, AND MEDICINE PHIALS ATTACHED" width="535" height="454"><p class="figureHead">WOMAN’S GIRDLE, WITH CARTRIDGE CASES, SKIN-SCRAPERS, AND MEDICINE PHIALS ATTACHED</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We spent a long and pleasant day within a few yards of another village called M’lala
in Chibi’s country, also perched on a rocky eminence, where many objects of interest
came before our notice.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p045width" id="p045"><img src="images/p045.png" alt="WOODEN HAIR COMB, CHIBI’S COUNTRY" width="275" height="475"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN HAIR COMB, CHIBI’S COUNTRY</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Here for the first time we saw the iron furnaces in <span class="pageNum" id="pb45">[<a href="#pb45">45</a>]</span>which the natives smelt the iron ore they obtain from the neighbouring mountains.
This is a time-honoured industry in Mashonaland. Dos Santos alludes to it in his description,
and so do Arab writers of the ninth and tenth centuries, as practised by the savages
of their day.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e1866src" href="#xd31e1866">3</a> In Chibi’s country iron-smelting is a great industry. Here whole villages devote
all their time and energies to it, tilling no land and keeping no cattle, but exchanging
their iron-headed assegais, barbed arrow-heads, and field tools for grain and such
domestic commodities as they may require. I am told also of villages which, after
the same fashion, have a monopoly of pot-making. This industry is mostly carried on
by the women, who deftly build up with clay, on round stands made for the purpose,
large pots for domestic use, which they scrape smooth with large shells kept for this
object, and then they give them a sort of black glaze with plumbago. In <span class="pageNum" id="pb46">[<a href="#pb46">46</a>]</span>exchange for one of these pots they get as much grain as it will hold.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p046width" id="p046"><img src="images/p046.png" alt="GRANARY DECORATED WITH BREAST AND FURROW PATTERN" width="279" height="284"><p class="figureHead">GRANARY DECORATED WITH BREAST AND FURROW PATTERN</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The native iron furnace is a curious object to look upon. It is made of clay, and
is another instance of the design being taken from the human form, for it is made
to represent a seated woman; the head is the chimney, decorated in some cases with
eyes, nose, and mouth, resting on shoulders; the legs are stretched out and form the
sides of the furnace, and to complete the picture they decorate the front with breasts
and the tattoo decorations usually found on female stomachs.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e1879src" href="#xd31e1879">4</a> They heat the charcoal in the furnace by means of air pumped out of goat-skin bellows
through clay blow-pipes fixed into the embers. It is a quaint sight to see them at
work with all their commodities—pillows, knives, and assegais, fixed on to the reed
walls which shut off the forge from the outer world.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p047width" id="p047"><img src="images/p047.jpg" alt="WOODEN PILLOW REPRESENTING HUMAN FORM" width="486" height="520"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN PILLOW REPRESENTING HUMAN FORM</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>At M’lala too we were first introduced to the women who have their stomachs decorated
with many long lines, or cicatrices. Between thirty and forty of these lines ran across
their stomachs, executed with <span class="pageNum" id="pb47">[<a href="#pb47">47</a>]</span>surprising regularity, and resembling the furrows on a ploughed field. In vain we
tried to photograph and count them. On one occasion I succeeded in counting sixteen
furrows, when the bashful female ran away, and I think I had done about half. This
is the favourite pattern in Chibi’s country and with the neighbouring dependent tribes
for female decoration, and they admire it so much that they put it also on their drums,
on their granaries, and on their pillows, and, <span class="pageNum" id="pb48">[<a href="#pb48">48</a>]</span>as I have said, on their forges. ‘The breast and furrow’ pattern, one might technically
term it, and I fancy it has to do with an occult idea of fertility.
</p>
<div class="table" id="p048">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p048-1width"><img src="images/p048-1.jpg" alt="IRON SKIN-SCRAPER" width="190" height="419"><p class="figureHead">IRON SKIN-SCRAPER</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p048-2width"><img src="images/p048-2.jpg" alt="NEEDLES IN CASES" width="196" height="425"><p class="figureHead">NEEDLES IN CASES</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>One of these oddly marked ladies was busily engaged in building a granary on a rock.
She first lays a circular foundation of mud, into which she puts sticks. On to these
she plasters mud until the funnel-shaped thing is about three feet high. A hole is
left near the top for inserting and extracting the grain, and it is then thatched
with grass; and it effectually keeps out the many rats and mice which swarm in these
parts. The costume of these natives is extremely <span class="pageNum" id="pb49">[<a href="#pb49">49</a>]</span>limited. A man is content with two cat-skins, one in front and one behind, though
the latter is not always <i lang="fr">de rigueur</i>. The women wear leathern aprons and girdles, tied so tightly as almost to cut them
in two, and made of several long strips of leather, like boot-laces fastened together.
On to these they hang all the necessaries of their primitive life. At present old
cartridge cases are the fashion for holding snuff, or decorated reeds, or wooden cases.
Then they have a few decorated bone ornaments, evidently of a mystic character; a
skin-scraper or two with which to perform their toilette, which articles are of the
form and shape of the strigil known to us from classical times, and the ends of the
boot-laces are elegantly finished off with brass or copper beads. The needle, too,
is a feature seldom absent from the man’s neck and girdle, being a sharp-pointed bit
of iron or brass with which they pierce the skins and fasten them together with threads
of bark; these needles are fitted into a wooden case, which the more fanciful decorate
with bands of brass wire.
</p>
<p>At M’lala too we saw the blind witch-doctor of the village, dressed in all his savage
toggery. Small gourds with seeds inside to rattle were tied to his calves. These are
the fruit of the <i lang="la">Oncoba spinosa</i>. A buck’s horn with a chain was hung round his neck, with which he made a hideous
noise. Odd chains of beads decorated his neck, made out of the pods of the <i lang="la">Acacia litakunensis</i>, and his arms and legs were a mass of brass bracelets and anklets; and <span class="pageNum" id="pb50">[<a href="#pb50">50</a>]</span>his hair resplendent with feathers completed the fantastic appearance of this poor
blind man, who danced before us unceasingly, and made such hideous noises that we
were obliged to give him some beads and ask him to stop.
</p>
<p>The pass through which the road leads up from the river country to Fort Victoria is
now called ‘Providential,’ by reason of the fact that the pioneer force of the Chartered
Company did not know how to get over the range of hills rising to the north of the
Tokwe River, until Mr. Selous chanced to hit on this gully between the mountains leading
up to the higher plateau. Its scenery, to my mind, is distinctly overrated. It is
green and luxuriant in tropical vegetation, with the bubbling stream Godobgwe running
down it. The hills on either side are fairly fine, but it could be surpassed easily
in Wales and Scotland, or even Yorkshire. In point of fact, the scenery of Mashonaland
is nothing if not quaint. Providential Pass is distinctly commonplace, whereas the
granite <i>kopje</i> scenery is the quaintest form of landscape I have ever seen.
</p>
<p>Fort Victoria has no redeeming point of beauty about it whatsoever, being placed on
a bare flat plateau, surrounded in the rainy season by swamps. Nearly everybody was
down with fever when we got there; provisions were at famine prices—for example, seven
shillings for a pound of bacon and the same price for a tin of jam—and the melancholy
aspect of affairs was enhanced by the hundred and fifty saddles <span class="pageNum" id="pb51">[<a href="#pb51">51</a>]</span>placed in rows within the fort, which had once belonged to the hundred and fifty horses
brought up by the pioneers, all of which had died of horse sickness.
</p>
<p>The diseases to which quadrupeds are subject in this country are appalling. One man
of our acquaintance brought up eighty-seven horses, of which eighty-six died before
he got to Fort Victoria. The still mysterious disease called horse sickness is supposed
to come from grazing in the early dew, but of this nobody is as yet sure; the poor
animals die in a few hours of suffocation, and none but ‘salted horses,’ <i>i.e.</i> horses which have had the disease and recovered, are of any use up here. Our three
horses were warranted salted, but this did not prevent one of them from having a recurrence
of the disease, which gave us a horrible fright and caused us to expend a whole bottle
of whisky on it, to which we fondly imagine it owes its life. Another horse also gave
us a similar alarm. One morning its nose was terribly swollen, and the experienced
professed to see signs of the sickness in its eye. Nevertheless nothing came of it,
and in due course the swelling went down. On close enquiry we discovered that it had
been foolishly tied for the night to a euphorbia tree, and had pricked its nose with
the poisonous thorns.
</p>
<p>As for oxen, the diseases they are subject to make one wonder that any of them ever
get up country alive; besides the fatal lung sickness they suffer from what is called
the ‘drunk sickness,’ a species of <span class="pageNum" id="pb52">[<a href="#pb52">52</a>]</span>staggers. When we reached Zimbabwe nearly all our oxen developed the mange and swollen
legs, but recovered owing to the long rest. Besides these casualties they often die
from eating poisonous grasses; also in some parts the unwholesome herbage, or ‘sour
<i>veldt</i>,’ as it is known amongst the drivers, produces kidney diseases and other horrors
amongst them.
</p>
<p>All around Fort Victoria, they told us, the grass was sour, so we only remained there
long enough to make our preparations for our excavations at Zimbabwe. Tools of all
descriptions we had luckily brought with us from Fort Tuli, as there were none here
when we arrived. In fact the dearth of everything struck us forcibly, but by this
time doubtless all this will be remedied, for we were amongst the first waggons to
come up after the rains, and now Fort Victoria, with the recent discovery of good
gold reefs in its immediate vicinity, is bound to become an important place.
</p>
<p>From Fort Victoria our real troubles of progression began. It is only fourteen miles
from there to the great Zimbabwe ruins by the narrow Kaffir path, and active individuals
have been known to go there and back in a day. It took us exactly seven days to traverse
this distance with our waggons. The cutting down of trees, the skirting of swamps,
the making of corduroy bridges, were amongst the hindrances which impeded our progress.
For our men it was a perpetual time of toil; for us it was a week of excessive weariness.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb53">[<a href="#pb53">53</a>]</span></p>
<p>For two nights we were ‘outspanned’ by the edge of a deep ravine, at the bottom of
which was a swampy stream. This had to be bridged with trees and a road made up and
down the banks before our waggons could cross over it. A few hundred yards from this
spot the river M’shagashi flowed, a considerable stream, which is within easy reach
of Zimbabwe and eventually makes its way down to the Tokwe. On its banks we saw several
crocodiles basking, and consequently resisted the temptation to bathe.
</p>
<p>By diving into the forests and climbing hills we came across groups of natives who
interested us. It was the season just then in which they frequent the forests—the
‘barking season,’ when they go forth to collect large quantities of the bark of certain
trees, out of which they produce so much that is useful for their primitive lives.
They weave textiles out of bark; they make bags and string out of bark; they make
quivers for their arrows, beehives for their bees, and sometimes granaries, out of
bark. The bark industry is second only to the iron-smelting amongst the Makalangas.
</p>
<p>At the correct season of the year they go off in groups into the forests to collect
bark, taking with them their wives and their children, carrying with them their assegais,
and fine barbed arrows with which they shoot mice, a delicacy greatly beloved by them;
they take with them also bags of mealies for food, and collect bags of caterpillars—brown
hairy caterpillars three inches long, which at this season <span class="pageNum" id="pb54">[<a href="#pb54">54</a>]</span>of the year swarm on the trees. These they disembowel and eat in enormous quantities,
and what they cannot eat on the expedition they dry in the sun and take home for future
consumption. Their only method of making a fire is by rubbing two sticks dexterously
together until a spark appears, with which they ignite some tinder carried in a little
wooden box attached to their girdles. At night time they cut down branches from the
trees, and make a shelter for themselves from the wind. It is curious to see a set
of natives asleep, like sardines in a box, one black naked lump of humanity; if one
turns or disturbs the harmony of the pie they all get up and swear at him and settle
down again. One man is always told off to watch the fire to keep off wild beasts,
and then when morning comes they pack their belongings, their treasures of bark, mice,
and caterpillars, and start off along the narrow path in single file at a tremendous
pace, silent for a while, and then bursting forth into song, looking for all the world
like a procession of black caterpillars themselves.
</p>
<p>These forests around Zimbabwe are lovely to wander in, with feathery festoons of lichen,
like a fairy scene at a pantomime; outside the forests are long stretches of coarse
grass, towering above our heads in many cases, and horrible to have to push through,
especially after a fall of rain. They were then in seed, and looked just like our
harvest fields at home, giving a golden tinge to the whole country.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb55">[<a href="#pb55">55</a>]</span></p>
<p>Fine trees perched on the summit of colossal ant-hills cast a pleasant shade around,
and if by chance we were near a stream we had to be careful not to fall into game
pits, deep narrow holes hidden by the long grass, which the natives dig in the ground
and towards which they drive deer and antelope, so that they get their forelegs fixed
in them and cannot get out.
</p>
<p>All around Zimbabwe is far too well watered to be pleasant; long stretches of unhealthy
swamps fill up the valleys; rivers and streams are plentiful, and the vegetation consequently
rich. Owing to the surrounding swamps we had much fever in our camp during our two
months’ stay; as we had our waggons with us we could not camp on very high ground,
and suffered accordingly. This fever of the high <i>veldt</i> with plenty of food and plenty of quinine is by no means dangerous, only oft-recurring
and very weakening. Of the fourteen cases we had under treatment none were really
dangerously ill, and none seemed to suffer from bad effects afterwards when the fever
had worn itself out. The real cause of so much mortality and misery amongst the pioneer
force during their first wet season in the country was the want of nourishing food
to give the fever patients and the want of proper medicine.
</p>
<p>As for the natives themselves, I cannot help saying a few words in their favour, as
it has been customary to abuse them and set their capabilities down as nought. During
the time we were at Zimbabwe we <span class="pageNum" id="pb56">[<a href="#pb56">56</a>]</span>were constantly surrounded by them, and employed from fifty to sixty of them for our
work, and the only thing we lost was half a bottle of whisky, which we did not set
down to the natives, who as yet are happily ignorant of the potency of fire-water.
Doubtless on the traversed roads and large centres, where they are brought into contact
with traders and would-be civilisers of the race, these people become thieves and
vagabonds; but in their primitive state the Makalangas are naturally honest, exceedingly
courteous in manner, and cowardice appears to be their only vice, arising doubtless
from the fact that for generations they have had to flee to their fastnesses before
the raids of more powerful races. The Makalanga is above the ordinary Kaffir in intelligence.
Contrary to the prognostications of our advisers, we found that some of them rapidly
learnt their work, and were very careful excavators, never passing over a thing of
value, which is more than can be said of all the white men in our employ. Some of
them are decidedly handsome, and not at all like negroes except in skin; many of them
have a distinctly Arab cast of countenance, and with their peculiar rows of tufts
on the top of their heads looked <i lang="fr">en profil</i> like the figures one sees on Egyptian tombs. There is certainly a Semite drop of
blood in their veins; whence it comes will probably never be known, but it is marked
both on their countenances and in their customs. In religion they are monotheists—that
is to say, they believe in a supreme being called Muali, between <span class="pageNum" id="pb57">[<a href="#pb57">57</a>]</span>whom and them their ancestors, or <i>mozimos</i>, to whom they sacrifice, act as intercessors. They lay out food for their dead; they
have a day of rest during the ploughing season, which they call Muali’s Day; they
have dynastic names for their chiefs, like the Pharaohs of old; they sacrifice a goat
to ward off pestilence and famine; circumcision is practised amongst some of them.
We have also the pillows or head rests, the strigil, the iron sceptres of the chiefs,
the iron industry, all with parallels from the north. Then, again, their musical instruments,
their games, and their <i>totems</i> point distinctly to an Arabian influence, which has been handed down from generation
to generation long after the Arabians have ceased to have any definite intercourse
with the country. During the course of these pages numerous minor illustrations will
from time to time appear which point in the same direction. It is a curious ethnological
problem which it will be hard to unravel. All over the country sour milk is much drunk
and called <i>mast</i>, as it is in the East, and in parts of this country beer is called <i>dowra</i> or <i>doro</i>, a term which has come from Abyssinia and Arabia, and the method of making it is
the same. The corn is soaked in water and left till it sprouts a little; then it is
spread in the sun to dry and mixed with unsprouted grain; then the women pound it
in wooden mortars, and the malt obtained from this is boiled and left to stand in
a pot for two days, and over night a little malt that has been kept for the purpose
is thrown over the <span class="pageNum" id="pb58">[<a href="#pb58">58</a>]</span>liquid to excite fermentation. It will not keep at all, and is sometimes strong and
intoxicating. Women are the great brewers in Mashonaland, and a good wife is valued
according to her skill in this department.
</p>
<p>This Kaffir beer is certainly an old-world drink. There are several classical allusions
for what is termed ‘barley beer.’ Xenophon and the Ten Thousand one evening, on reaching
an Armenian village in the mountains of Asia Minor, refreshed themselves with what
he describes as ‘bowls of barley wine in which the grains are floating.’
</p>
<p>The Egyptians too made beer after the same fashion, and used it also in sacrifices.
Much that was known in the old world has travelled southwards through Nubia and Abyssinia,
and is to be found still amongst the Kaffir races of to-day. Some of the words in
common use amongst the Kaffirs in Mashonaland are very curious. Anything small, whether
it be a child or to indicate that the price paid for anything is insufficient, they
term <i>piccanini</i>; the word is universal, and points to intercourse with other continents. The term
<i>Morunko</i>, or <i>Molungo</i>, universally applied to white men, is probably of Zulu origin, and has been connected—with
what reason I know not—with <i>Unkulunkulu</i>, a term to denote the Supreme Being. At any rate it is distinctly a term of respect,
and certainly has nothing to do with the Mashona language, in which <i>Muali</i> or <i>Mali</i> is used to denote God.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb59">[<a href="#pb59">59</a>]</span></p>
<p>Finally, at long last, after exactly three months to a day of ‘trekking’ in our ox
waggons, the mighty ruins of Zimbabwe were reached on June 6, 1891, and we sat down
in the wilderness to commence our operations, with the supreme delight of knowing
that for two months our beds would not begin to shake and tumble us about before half
our nights were over.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb60">[<a href="#pb60">60</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e1731">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e1731src">1</a></span> M’, which looks so mysterious in all African books, is supposed to express that the
first syllable may be pronounced either <i>um</i> or <i>mu</i>; there are four correct ways of pronouncing the name in question, Umtali or Mutare,
Umtare or Mutali. The English have adopted the first and the Portuguese the second.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e1731src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e1738">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e1738src">2</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#ch7">Chap. VII</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e1738src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e1866">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e1866src">3</a></span> <a href="#ch7">Chap. VII</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e1866src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e1879">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e1879src">4</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, <a href="#p304">ch. X</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e1879src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch3" class="div1 last-child chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e393">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER III</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Our camp was pitched on slightly rising ground about 200 yards from the large circular
ruin at Zimbabwe, and was for the space of two months a busy centre of life and work
in the midst of the wilderness. There were our two waggons, in which we slept; hard
by was erected what our men called an Indian terrace, a construction of grass and
sticks in which we ate, and which my wife decorated with the flowers gathered around
us—the brilliant red spokes of the flowering aloes, which grew in magnificent fiery
clusters all over the rocks, the yellow everlasting (<i lang="la">Helipterum incanum</i>), which grew in profusion in a neighbouring swamp, wreaths of the pink bignonia,
festoons of which decorated the ruins and the neighbouring kraal. Besides these she
had the red flowers of the Indian shot (<i lang="la">Canna indica</i>), which was found in abundance on the hill fortress, fronds of the <i lang="la">Osmunda regalis</i> and tree fern, the white silky flowers of the sugar tree (<i lang="la">Protea mellifera</i>), and many others at her disposal, a wealth of floral decoration which no conservatory
at home could supply.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb61">[<a href="#pb61">61</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p061width" id="p061"><img src="images/p061.jpg" alt="MRS. THEODORE BENT" width="550" height="715"><p class="figureHead">MRS. THEODORE BENT</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb63">[<a href="#pb63">63</a>]</span></p>
<p>Our tent was our drawing-room; and in addition to these places of shelter there were
the photographic dark tent, five feet six square, the kitchen, and the white men’s
sleeping-room, cleverly constructed out of the sails of our waggons, with walls of
grass. In the centre was an erection for our cocks and hens, but even from here the
jackals occasionally contrived to steal one or two. Around the whole camp ran a <i>skerm</i>, or hedge, of grass, which latter adjunct gave a comfortable and concentrated feeling
to it all. Outside our circle the native workmen erected for themselves three or four
huts, into which they all huddled at night like so many sardines in a tin. Around
us in every direction grew the tall, wavy grass of the <i>veldt</i>, rapidly approaching the time when it can be burnt. This time was one of imminent
peril for our camp; the flames, lashed to fury by the wind, approached within a few
yards of us. Men with branches rushed hither and thither, beating the advancing enemy
with all their might; our grass hedge was rapidly pulled down, and we trembled for
the safety of our Indian terrace. Suddenly a spark caught the huts of the natives,
and in a few moments they were reduced to ashes, and the poor shivering occupants
had to spend the night in a cave in the rocks behind. Luckily the strenuous efforts
of our men were successful in keeping the flames from our camp, and we were thankful
when this business was over. Instead of the tall, wavy grass, reeking with moisture
when it rained and rotting in the heat of <span class="pageNum" id="pb64">[<a href="#pb64">64</a>]</span>the sun, we had now around us a black sea of ashes, recalling the appearance of the
vicinity of a coal mine; but though less picturesque it was far more healthy, and
during the last weeks of our stay at Zimbabwe the attacks of fever were less frequent
and less severe.
</p>
<p>From Fort Victoria came over during our stay a whole host of visitors to see how we
were getting on. Prospecting parties going northwards tarried at Fort Victoria for
a rest, and came over to see the wondrous ruins of Zimbabwe. Englishmen, Dutchmen
from the Transvaal, Germans, all sorts and conditions of men came to visit us, and
as temporary custodians of the ruins we felt it our duty to personally conduct parties
over them, thereby hearing all sorts and conditions of opinions as to the origin of
the same. One of our friends told us that they reminded him forcibly of the Capitol
of Rome; another, of a religious turn of mind, saw in them an exact parallel to the
old walls of Jerusalem; and a Dutchman, after seeing over them, told me that he was
convinced that they must be just ‘one tousand year old, and built in the reign of
Queen Shabby.’ The names of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba were on everybody’s
lips, and have become so distasteful to us that we never expect to hear them again
without an involuntary shudder.
</p>
<p>Thus our two months’ stay at Zimbabwe can in no way be said to have been dull. We
had our daily work from eight in the morning till sundown, with an hour at midday
for luncheon and repose. Out of the working days we lost nine from rain, a curious
<span class="pageNum" id="pb65">[<a href="#pb65">65</a>]</span>soaking misty rain which always came on with a high south-east wind, and always, oddly
enough, with a rise in the barometer, very exceptional, we were told, at that season
of the year. Over these days I would willingly draw a veil; they were truly miserable
and always resulted in fresh outbreaks of fever amongst us. With the exception of
these nine days the weather was simply delicious, fresh, balmy, and sunny; after sundown
and our evening meal we would sit around our camp fire discussing our finds of the
day and indulging in hopes for the morrow. Most of our white men were musical, and
beguiled the monotony of the evening hours by a series of camp concerts, which made
us intimately acquainted with all the latest music-hall ditties. Occasionally rations
of Cape brandy, better known as <i>dop</i>, would be sent out to the B.S.A. men in our employ; then the evening’s fun became
fast and furious, and on two occasions caused us no little anxiety. Luckily these
rations were always consumed on the night of their arrival, and though the following
morning revealed a headache or two, and an occasional attack of fever, we always rejoiced
to see the bottles empty and to know that the orgy would not be repeated for perhaps
a fortnight.
</p>
<p>Umgabe is the dynastic name of the petty chief whose territory includes the Zimbabwe
ruins; he recognises the suzerainty of Chibi, but is to all intents and purposes a
free ruler. He came the day after our arrival to visit us, and then we were introduced
<span class="pageNum" id="pb66">[<a href="#pb66">66</a>]</span>to the Makalanga custom of hand-clapping. The mysterious meaning attached to this
hand-clapping I was afterwards able in a measure to fathom.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2049src" href="#xd31e2049">1</a> On the arrival of a chief or grand <i>induna</i> the hand-clapping is a serious undertaking, and has to go on incessantly until the
great man is seated and bids them stop. Umgabe was glad to see us, he said, and had
no intention of interrupting our proposed work, provided only we agreed to one thing,
and that was to leave his women alone. As for ourselves and our white men, we answered
that he need have no fear, but as for our negro workmen we would not hold ourselves
responsible for them, but suggested that, as they would all be his subjects, he must
see to them himself.
</p>
<p>Umgabe is a huge fat man, tall and dignified, though naked; around his neck he has
a string of large white Venetian beads of considerable antiquity, brought doubtless
to this country by Arabian traders in the Middle Ages; in his hand he carries his
iron sceptre, the badge of a chief, and his battle axe is lavishly decorated with
brass wire. Amongst his men we saw many of varied types, some distinctly Arabian in
features, and I am bound to say the Kaffir type amongst them was the exception and
by no means the rule. Arched noses, thin lips, and a generally refined type of countenance
are not, as a rule, prominent features amongst those of pure Kaffir blood, but they
are common enough around Zimbabwe.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p067width" id="p067"><img src="images/p067.jpg" alt="UMGABE AND HIS INDUNAS" width="720" height="501"><p class="figureHead">UMGABE AND HIS INDUNAS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We made arrangements with Umgabe about our <span class="pageNum" id="pb69">[<a href="#pb69">69</a>]</span>work, and collected together a team of thirty individuals who were to do our digging,
&amp;c., for the wages of one blanket a month, which blankets cost 4<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> apiece at Fort Tuli, and probably half that in England. For this reward they were
to work and also find themselves in everything; it is the present stipulated rate
of wages in the country, but I do not expect it will remain so long.
</p>
<p>We had great difficulties with them at first. Spades and picks were new to nearly
all of them; they were idle; they were afraid of us, and also of the chief on the
hill. If it was cold they would sit crouched over small fires of wood, and appear
numb and utterly incapable of work. Then they insisted on eating at the inconvenient
hour of 10.30 <span class="asc">A.M.</span> food brought for them by their women, paste of millet meal and caterpillars; and
for every little extra duty they clamoured for a present, or a <i>parsella</i>, as they called it. These difficulties gradually disappeared. Some of them became
excellent hands with pick and shovel; they got accustomed to us and our hours, and
worked with a will, and for a teaspoonful of beads they would do any amount of extra
work. Their chief skill was displayed in clearing. I almost despaired of getting rid
of the thick jungle which filled the large circular ruin, so that it was almost impossible
to stir in it. This they contrived to do for us in three or four days, hacking away
at stout trees and branches with their absurd little hatchets, and obtaining the most
satisfactory results. Also they were excellent at removing <span class="pageNum" id="pb70">[<a href="#pb70">70</a>]</span>piles of fallen stones, singing as they worked and urging one another on. Altogether
we had no cause to complain of our workmen when confidence had been thoroughly established
between us. Poor cowardly things that they are, anything like harshness made them
run away at once. Our cook, whose temper was exceedingly capricious, one day pursued
his native kitchen boy with a hatchet, and he never could get a kitchen boy to stay
with him after that; they would poke their fun at him and rouse his ire exceedingly,
but always at a respectful distance.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p070width" id="p070"><img src="images/p070.png" alt="HATCHET" width="135" height="267"><p class="figureHead">HATCHET</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>From the many villages on the heights around Zimbabwe came every day crowds of natives,
bringing provisions for sale, and we held a regular market in our camp. By this means
we got as many cocks and hens as we wanted, eggs, milk, honey, and sweet potatoes;
then they would bring us tomatoes, the largest I have ever seen, chillies, capers,
rice, and monkey nuts. Some of these, I am told on excellent authority, are distinct
products of the New World, the seeds of which must have originally been brought by
Dutch, Portuguese, and Spanish traders and given in exchange for the commodities of
the country; now they form an integral part of the diet of these people and prove
to us how the ends of the world were brought together long before our time.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb71">[<a href="#pb71">71</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p071width" id="p071"><img src="images/p071.jpg" alt="CARVED KNIVES" width="348" height="568"><p class="figureHead">CARVED KNIVES</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>These daily markets were times of great excitement for us, for, besides giving us
an insight into their ways and life, we found it an excellent time to acquire for
a few beads their native ornaments. In carving their knives they are particularly
ingenious. The sheath of these knives generally ends in a curious conventional <span class="pageNum" id="pb72">[<a href="#pb72">72</a>]</span>double foot; the handle too seems intended to represent a head. Here again it would
appear that they take the human form as a favourite basis for a design.
</p>
<p>Also their snuff-boxes are many and varied in form; some are made of reeds decorated
with black geometrical patterns, some of hollowed-out pieces of wood decorated with
patterns and brass wire, also they have their grease-holders similarly decorated,
all pointing to a high form of ingenuity.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p072width" id="p072"><img src="images/p072.jpg" alt="BONE ORNAMENTS" width="157" height="170"><p class="figureHead">BONE ORNAMENTS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>They were very glad to get good English powder from us; but, nevertheless, before
this advent of the white man they made a sort of gunpowder of their own, reddish in
colour and not very powerful, specimens of which we acquired. The art must have been
learnt from the Portuguese traders and passed up country from one village to another.
From a species of cotton plant they produce a very fair equivalent for the genuine
article, which they spin on spindles and make into long strings. When the natives
found we cared for their ornaments they brought them in large quantities, and our
camp was inundated with knives, snuff-boxes, bowls, pottery, and all manner of odd
things. They were cunning too in their dealings, bringing one by one into camp small
baskets full of meal and other commodities from a large store outside, realising that
in this way they got many more <span class="pageNum" id="pb73">[<a href="#pb73">73</a>]</span>beads and more stretches of <i>limbo</i> than if they brought it all at once. As for Umgabe himself, his chief kraal and residence
was six miles away, and we saw but little of him after the first excitement of our
arrival had worn off; but his brother Ikomo, the <i>induna</i> of the kraal on the hill behind the ruins, often came down to see us, and was a constant
source of annoyance, seeing that his friendly visits had always some ulterior motive
of getting something out of us. On one of these occasions my wife had collected a
beautiful bowl of honey; the rascal Ikomo first eyed it with covetousness and then
plunged his hand into the very midst thereof, and enjoyed his fingers complacently
for some time after, whilst she in disgust had to throw away the best part of her
treasure.
</p>
<p>Frequently Ikomo would try to interrupt our work, and so frighten our black diggers
from other villages that they ran away, and we had to collect a fresh team. On one
occasion, whilst digging upon the fortress, we disturbed a large rock, which slipped.
On it was perched one of their granaries, which promptly fell to pieces, and the contents
were scattered far and wide. In vain we offered to pay for the damage done; almost
in no time we were surrounded by a screaming crowd of angry men and women, with Ikomo
at their head, brandishing assegais and other terrible weapons of war. For a moment
the affair looked serious; all our blacks fled in haste, and we, a small band of white
men surrounded by the foe, <span class="pageNum" id="pb74">[<a href="#pb74">74</a>]</span>were doubtful what course to pursue. At length we determined to stand their insults
no longer, and seizing whatever was nearest—spade, pick, or shovel—we rushed at them,
and forthwith Ikomo and his valiant men fled like sheep before us, clambering up rocks,
chattering and screaming like a cageful of monkeys at the Zoo. Sir John Willoughby
and one or two men from Fort Victoria chanced to come over that day to visit us, and
on hearing of our adventure he summoned Ikomo to a palaver, and told him that if such
a thing happened again his kraal would be burnt to the ground and his tribe driven
from the hill; and the result of this threat was that Ikomo troubled us no more.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p074width" id="p074"><img src="images/p074.jpg" alt="WOODEN SNUFF-BOXES" width="533" height="336"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN SNUFF-BOXES</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb75">[<a href="#pb75">75</a>]</span></p>
<p>Ikomo’s kraal occupies a lovely situation on Zimbabwe Hill, with huts nestling in
cosy corners amongst the rocks, from the top of which lovely views can be obtained
over the distant Bessa and Inyuni ranges on the one side, and over the Livouri range,
and Providential Pass on the other, whilst to the south the view extends over a sea
of rugged <i>kopjes</i> down into the Tokwe valley. From this point the strategical value of the hill is
at once grasped, rising as it does sheer out of a well-watered plain, unassailable
from all sides, the most commanding position in all the country round. The village
is festooned with charming creepers, bignonia and others, then in full flower; rows
of granaries decorate the summit, and in the midst are some of those quaint trees
which they use as larders, hanging therefrom the produce of their fields neatly tied
up in long grass packages, which look like colossal German sausages growing from the
branches.
</p>
<p>On one of the few flat spaces in the village is kept the village drum, or ‘tom-tom,’
constantly in use for dances. One day we found the women of the village hard at work
enjoying themselves round this drum, dancing a sort of war dance of their own. It
was a queer sight to see these women, with deep furrows on their naked stomachs, rushing
to and fro, stooping, kneeling, shouting, brandishing battle axes and assegais, and
going through all the pantomime of war, until at last one of these Amazons fell into
hysterics, and the dance was over. On another occasion, <span class="pageNum" id="pb76">[<a href="#pb76">76</a>]</span>whilst visiting some ruins in a lovely dale about eight miles from Zimbabwe, we were
treated to another sort of dance by the women of a neighbouring village. The chief
feature in the performance was a grotesque one, and consisted of smacking their furrowed
stomachs and long hanging breasts in measured cadence with the movements of their
feet, so that the air resounded with the noise produced.
</p>
<p>As for the men, they are for ever dancing, either a beer drink, the new moon, or simple,
unfeigned joviality being the motive power. Frequently on cold evenings our men would
dance round the camp fire; always the same <i>indomba</i>, or war dance; round and round they went, shouting, capering, gesticulating. Now
and again scouts would be sent out to reconnoitre, and would engage in fight with
an imaginary foe, and return victorious to the circle. If one had not had personal
experience of their cowardice, one might almost have been alarmed at their hostile
attitudes. On pay-day, when our thirty workmen each received a blanket for their month’s
work, they treated us to a dance, each man wrapped in his new acquisition. Umgabe,
with his sceptre and battle axe, conducted the proceedings; it was a most energetic
and ridiculous scene to witness, as the blankets whirled round in the air and the
men shouted and yelled with joy. When all was over, each man measured his blanket
with his neighbour, to see that he had not been cheated, and, gaily chattering, they
wended their way to the village, with their blankets trailing <span class="pageNum" id="pb77">[<a href="#pb77">77</a>]</span>behind them. The novelty of possessing a blanket was an intense joy to these savages.
One tottering old man was amongst our workmen, and seeing his incapacity, I was about
to discard him, but his longing for a blanket was so piteous—‘to sleep in a blanket
once before he died’—that he was allowed to continue and do what he could to earn
one.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p077width" id="p077"><img src="images/p077.png" alt="BOY BEATING DRUM" width="387" height="472"><p class="figureHead">BOY BEATING DRUM</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Dancing is the one great dissipation of the Makalanga’s life; he will keep it up for
hours without tiring at their great beer-drinking feasts, at weddings—nay, even at
funerals. At these latter ceremonies <span class="pageNum" id="pb78">[<a href="#pb78">78</a>]</span>they will not allow a white man to be present, so that what they do is still a mystery;
but we heard repeatedly the incident festivities after a death had taken place—the
shouting, the dancing, and the hideous din of the ‘tom-tom.’ One day a native turned
up at our camp with some curious carrot-like roots in his hand. On enquiry as to what
he was going to do with them he replied that he was going to a funeral, and that they
chewed this root and spat it out—for it is poisonous—at these ceremonies. The natives
call this root <i>amouni</i>.
</p>
<div class="table" id="p078">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p078-1width"><img src="images/p078-1.png" alt="DRUM DECORATED WITH ‘BREAST AND FURROW’ PATTERN" width="216" height="429"><p class="figureHead">DRUM DECORATED WITH ‘BREAST AND FURROW’ PATTERN</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom vam">
<div class="figure p078-2width"><img src="images/p078-2.png" alt="PLAIN DRUM" width="171" height="304"><p class="figureHead">PLAIN DRUM</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb79">[<a href="#pb79">79</a>]</span></p>
<p>In our work at Zimbabwe we unwittingly opened several of their graves amongst the
old ruins. The corpse had been laid out on a reed mat—the mat, probably, on which
he had slept during life. His bowl and his calabash were placed beside him. One of
these graves had been made in a narrow passage in the ancient walls on the fortress.
We were rather horrified at what we had done, especially as a man came to complain,
and said that it was the grave of his brother, who had died a year before; so we filled
up the aperture and resisted the temptation to proceed with our excavations at that
spot. After that the old chief Ikomo, whenever we started a fresh place, came and
told us a relation of his was buried there. This occurring so often, we began to suspect,
and eventually proved, a fraud. So we set sentiment aside and took scientific research
as our motto for the future.
</p>
<p>In the tomb of a chief it is customary to place a bowl of beer, which is constantly
replenished for the refreshment of the spirit, for they are great believers in making
themselves agreeable to the departed, and at the annual sacrificial feast in honour
of the dead meat and beer are always allotted to the spirits of their ancestors.
</p>
<p>One day as we were digging in a cave we came across the skeleton of a goat tied on
to a mat with bark string; by its side was the carved knife, with portions of the
goat’s hair still adhering to it. Here we had an obvious instance of sacrifice, a
sacrifice <span class="pageNum" id="pb80">[<a href="#pb80">80</a>]</span>which takes place, I believe, to avert some calamity—famine, war, or pestilence—which
at the time threatens the community. The natives were very reticent on the point,
but visibly annoyed at our discovery.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p080width" id="p080"><img src="images/p080.png" alt="PLAYING THE PIANO" width="408" height="478"><p class="figureHead">PLAYING THE PIANO</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p081width" id="p081"><img src="images/p081.jpg" alt="MAKALANGA PIANO" width="524" height="514"><p class="figureHead">MAKALANGA PIANO</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>There is a good deal of music inherent in the Makalanga. One man in each village is
recognised as the bard. One of our workmen had his piano, which was constantly at
work. These pianos are very interesting specimens of primitive musical art; they have
thirty or more iron keys, arranged to scale, <span class="pageNum" id="pb81">[<a href="#pb81">81</a>]</span>fixed on to a piece of wood about half a foot square, which is decorated with carving
behind. This instrument they generally put into a gourd, with pieces of bone round
the edge to increase the sound, which is decidedly melodious and recalls a spinet.
One finds instruments of a similar nature amongst the natives north of the Zambesi.
Specimens in the British Museum of almost exactly the same construction come from
Southern Egypt and the Congo, pointing <span class="pageNum" id="pb82">[<a href="#pb82">82</a>]</span>to the common and northern origin of most of these African races.
</p>
<p>About Zimbabwe we found the natives playing a sort of Jew’s harp, made out of a reed
and string, giving forth a very faint and ineffective sound. Also they have their
cymbals and their drums, which latter they play with elbow and fist in a most energetic
manner. Anything, in fact, which makes a noise is pleasing to them. At their dances
they tie to their persons small reeds or gourds filled with the seed of the Indian
shot, which rattle and add to the prevailing din. They are for ever singing the low,
monotonous songs common to primitive races; they encourage one another with song when
at work in the fields, or when out on a hunting expedition, and dearly did they love
some small musical boxes which we had with us. Music is certainly inherent in them,
and one of our men was quite quick at picking up an air, and very angry if his comrades
sang out of time or tune.
</p>
<p>When time permitted we made several little excursions in the neighbourhood of Zimbabwe.
One of these led us to the ruins which they call Little Zimbabwe, about eight miles
off. Of all these ruins they have next to no legends, which surprised us greatly.
One story, however, they tell, which appears to have obtained universal credence amongst
them—that long, long ago white men came and erected these buildings, but the black
men poisoned the water and they all died. This story seems to <span class="pageNum" id="pb83">[<a href="#pb83">83</a>]</span>have about as much value in it as the one told us by De Barros, that the natives of
his day thought that they had been built by the Devil.
</p>
<p>About two miles from our camp there was a long flat granite rock, along which the
path passed. On either side of this are two piles of stones, and a line is scratched
on the rock between them. Our guides each took a stone, scratched them along the line,
and deposited them on the heap opposite. On returning in the evening they did exactly
the same thing, and we were told that it is a luck sign, which they do on undertaking
a journey to ensure them from danger by the way. It was a very lovely ride, past huge
granite boulders, and hills covered with dense foliage, beneath which the women of
a village danced for us to the tune of their drum, forming one of the wildest, weirdest
pictures we had ever seen. On another occasion we rode to a fortified rock, which
had been long since abandoned; but the rude stone walls had been constructed by a
more recent race, and compared with certain ruined villages we afterwards saw in Mangwendi’s
country.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2181src" href="#xd31e2181">2</a> On our homeward ride we turned aside to rest in a hut where we found natives busily
employed in making beer, a process which they always carry out in the fields, where
they have their stores, and in cooking locusts, which we tasted and thought not altogether
unlike shrimps.
</p>
<p>Thus our time passed at Zimbabwe, actively and pleasantly, and when our second month
of work was <span class="pageNum" id="pb84">[<a href="#pb84">84</a>]</span>up, as we had much travelling before us in the country, we reluctantly decided on
departure.
</p>
<p>We went up to take leave of the <i>induna</i> Ikomo at his kraal on the day before our departure. He was seated in front of his
hut, eating his red-coloured <i>sodza</i>, made of millet meal, and locusts, allowing his head men, who sat around, to take
occasional handfuls from his savoury platter. Conversation turned on his tribe. He
told us how they had come to Zimbabwe about forty years ago, when he was only eighteen
years of age, from the neighbourhood of the Sabi River, where they had lived for many
years. No one was then living on Zimbabwe Hill, which was covered, as it is still
in parts, with a dense jungle. No one knew anything about the ruins, neither did they
seem to care. This is how all tradition is lost among them. The migratory spirit of
the people entirely precludes them from having any information of value to give concerning
the place in which they may be located; they seldom remain more than one generation
in one place, and one place is to them only different from another inasmuch as it
affords them refuge from the Matabele and has soil around it which will produce their
scanty crops.
</p>
<p>On leaving Zimbabwe and our work, we determined on making a tentative trip of a few
days, with horses and a donkey, to see how we could manage travelling in the wilds
in this country without our waggon home. Moreover, we wished to pay a visit <span class="pageNum" id="pb85">[<a href="#pb85">85</a>]</span>to Umgabe at his kraal, and to take his rival, Cherumbila, on the way back to Fort
Victoria.
</p>
<p>One lovely morning—the 6th of August—we left our waggons, our cook, and our curios
to find their way to Fort Victoria by themselves, and set off. The scenery southwards
down the gorge was charming, granite <i>kopje</i> after granite <i>kopje</i> carrying the eye far away into the blue hazy distance. The foliage was thick and
shady, and as we halted at a stream to water our animals we plucked large fronds of
<i lang="la">Osmunda regalis</i> and the tree fern. To our left we passed a huge split rock, just a square block of
granite eighty feet high split into four parts, so that narrow paths lead from each
side into the heart of it. It was one of the most extraordinary natural stone formations
I have ever seen, and the natives call it <i>Lumbo</i>. A relation of Umgabe’s rules over a fantastic kraal, called Baramazimba, hard by
this rock; its huts are situated in such inaccessible corners that you wonder how
the inhabitants ever get to them. Huge trees sheltered the entrance to this village,
beneath which men were seated on the ground playing <i>isafuba</i>, the mysterious game of the Makalangas, with sixty holes in rows in the ground. Ten
men can play at this game, and it consists in removing bits of pottery or stones from
one hole to the other in an unaccountable manner. We watched it scores of times whilst
in the country, and always gave it up as a bad job, deciding that it must be like
draughts or chess, learnt by them from the former civilised race who <span class="pageNum" id="pb86">[<a href="#pb86">86</a>]</span>dwelt here. This game is played in different places with different numbers of holes—sometimes
only thirty-two holes dug in the ground—always in rows of four. It has a close family
relationship to the game called <i>pullangooly</i> of India, played in a fish—the sisoo fish, made of wood—which opens like a chess-board,
and has fourteen holes in two rows of seven, small beans being employed as counters.
The same game hails also from Singapore and from the West Coast of Africa, where it
is played with twelve holes and is called <i>wary</i>. In short, wherever Arabian influence has been felt this game in some form or other
is always found, and forms for us another link in the chain of evidence connecting
the Mashonaland ruins with an Arabian influence. The Makalangas are also far superior
to other neighbouring Kaffir races in calculating, probably owing to the influence
of this very game.
</p>
<p>At midday we reached Umgabe’s kraal and found our host only just recovering from the
effects of drinking too much beer, and he had a relapse in the course of the afternoon
to celebrate our arrival. He allotted us two huts, which we proceeded to have cleaned
out. My wife and I occupied one, delightfully situated beneath a spreading cork tree;
it was about twelve feet in diameter, and in the centre was the fireplace of cement
with a raised seat by it on which the cook usually sits when stirring the pot. We
spread our rugs where it appeared most level; but during the night, in spite of our
candle, the rats <span class="pageNum" id="pb87">[<a href="#pb87">87</a>]</span>careered about us to such an alarming extent that sleep was next to impossible, and
we had ample time at our disposal for contemplating our abode.
</p>
<p>On one side was a raised place for the family jars, huge earthenware things covered
with slabs of stone, containing meal, caterpillars, locusts, and other edibles. On
the opposite side was a stable for the calves, which we were able to banish; but we
could not so easily control the cocks and hens which came in at all the holes, nor
the rats which darted amongst the smoke-begrimed rafters when day dawned. These blackened
rafters of the roof the Makalangas use as cupboards, sticking therein their pipes,
their weapons, their medicine phials, their tools, and their pillows, and we soon
found that this was the place to look for all manner of curios; only the huts are
so dark that it is impossible to see anything when there happen to be no holes in
the walls. A low door three feet high is the only point for admitting light and air;
consequently the huts are not only dark but odoriferous. Besides the walls, the Makalangas
construct a primitive sort of cupboard out of the spreading branch of a tree tied
round with bark fibre; this contains such things as they fear the rats may spoil.
They are very ingenious in making things out of bark—long narrow bags for meal, hen
coops in which to carry their poultry about, nets to keep the roofs on their granaries.
Bark to them is one of the most useful natural products that they have.
</p>
<p>Umgabe’s kraal has as lovely a situation as can <span class="pageNum" id="pb88">[<a href="#pb88">88</a>]</span>well be imagined. It is situated in a glade, buried in trees and vegetation, so that
until you are in it you hardly notice the spot. Huge granite mountains rise on either
side, completely shutting it in; a rushing stream runs through the glade, supplying
the place with delicious water. Here is distinctly a spot where only man is vile;
and the great fat chief, seated on the top of a rock, sodden with beer, formed one
of the vilest specimens of humanity I ever saw.
</p>
<p>The aforesaid stream in its course down the valley, just below the village, runs underneath
a vast mass of granite rocks, which form a labyrinth of caves exceedingly difficult
to approach. To facilitate the entry the inhabitants have made bridges of trees, and
in times of danger from the Matabele they take refuge therein; they take their cattle
with them, and pull down the bridges. In the interior they always keep many granaries
well filled with grain, in case of accidents. Old Umgabe was most unwilling for us
to go in and learn his tribal secret; however, nothing daunted, with the aid of candles
we effected an entry, and a queer place it is. Granaries are perched in all sorts
of crannies, traces of a late habitation exist all around, and the boiling stream
is roaring in the crevices below.
</p>
<p>The flat rocks outside were just then covered with locusts drying in the sun; millet
meal and other domestic commodities were spread out too.
</p>
<p>The rest of that lovely afternoon we spent in wandering about in this paradise, admiring
the dense <span class="pageNum" id="pb89">[<a href="#pb89">89</a>]</span>foliage, the creepers, and the euphorbia which towered over the huts, and regretted
when the pangs of hunger and the shades of evening obliged us to return to our huts
to cook our frugal meal and pretend to go to bed.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p089width" id="p089"><img src="images/p089.png" alt="HUT AT UMGABE’S KRAAL WITH EUPHORBIA BEHIND" width="392" height="552"><p class="figureHead">HUT AT UMGABE’S KRAAL WITH EUPHORBIA BEHIND</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>It was a long ride next day to Cherumbila’s kraal, the bitter enemy and hereditary
foe of our late host; <span class="pageNum" id="pb90">[<a href="#pb90">90</a>]</span>we passed many villages and many streams on the way, and had a direful experience
at one of the swamps which our path crossed just before reaching our destination.
One of our horses disappeared in it, all but his head, another rolled entirely over
in it, whilst we stood helpless on the bank and fearful of the result; but at length
we managed to drag the wretched animals out, and an hour before sundown we reached
Cherumbila’s stronghold.
</p>
<p>It is quite a different place from Umgabe’s, and much larger, with huts running along
the backbone of a high granite ridge. The principal kraal, where the chief lives,
is fortified with palisades and rough walls, and is entered by a gateway formed of
posts leaning against one another; the huts are better, with decorated doors, and
the people finer than those of Umgabe’s tribe. Many of them have their heads cleanly
shaved at the top, with a row of curious tufts of hair tied together and made to look
like a lot of black plants sprouting from their skulls.
</p>
<p>Cherumbila himself is a lithe, active man, a complete contrast to Umgabe; a man of
activity both of mind and body, he is feared and respected by his men, and is consequently
one of the strongest chiefs hereabouts, and raids upon his neighbours with great success.
Years ago, when he was a boy, he told us, his tribe lived on the top of one of the
highest mountains overlooking Providential Pass, when a Matabele raid, or <i>impi</i>, fell upon them and drove <span class="pageNum" id="pb91">[<a href="#pb91">91</a>]</span>most of the inhabitants over a steep precipice to their death: the remnant that escaped
came here and settled, and have now, under Cherumbila’s rule, grown strong. The chief
allotted us his own hut for our night’s lodging. Nevertheless we had much the same
experiences as on the previous night, which made us vow that on our prospective trips
to the Sabi and northwards we would take our tent and never again expose ourselves
to the companionship of rats and other vermin in the native huts.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p091width" id="p091"><img src="images/p091.png" alt="AT CHERUMBILA’S KRAAL" width="551" height="389"><p class="figureHead">AT CHERUMBILA’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The following day a lovely ride over the mountains, through dense forests and swarms
of locusts, <span class="pageNum" id="pb92">[<a href="#pb92">92</a>]</span>which our black men eagerly collected, brought us back again to Fort Victoria and
comparative civilisation, where we made preparations for our more extended expeditions
away from the road and our waggons, warned but not discouraged by our discomforts
with Umgabe and Cherumbila.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb93">[<a href="#pb93">93</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2049">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2049src">1</a></span> <a href="#ch10">Chap. X</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2049src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2181">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2181src">2</a></span> <a href="#ch11">Chap. XI</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2181src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div0 part">
<h2 class="label">PART II</h2>
<h2 class="main">DEVOTED TO THE ARCHÆOLOGY OF THE RUINED CITIES</h2>
<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb95">[<a href="#pb95">95</a>]</span></p>
<div id="ch4" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e410">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER IV</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">During our stay in Mashonaland we visited and carefully examined the sites of many
ruins, a minute description of which I propose to give in this chapter. As a feature
in the country they are most remarkable—ancient, massive, mysterious, standing out
in startling contrast to the primitive huts of the barbarians who dwell around them
and the wilderness of nature. Of course it was impossible in one season, and in the
present undeveloped state of the country, to visit them all; but from accounts given
of others which we could not visit, and which consequently I shall only briefly allude
to here, there is enough evidence to prove that they were all built by the same race,
in the same style, and for the same purpose.
</p>
<p>From Dr. Emil Holub’s work (‘Seven Years in South Africa’) we learn something about
a ruin he saw on the Shashi River, which consisted of a wall protecting a hill and
formed ‘of blocks of granite laid one upon another, without being fixed by cement
of any kind.’ Also at Tati he saw another ruin, forming <span class="pageNum" id="pb96">[<a href="#pb96">96</a>]</span>a long line of protection for a hill, roughly put together on the inside, but on the
outside, ‘probably with some view to symmetry and decoration, there had been inserted
double rows of stones, hewn into a kind of tile, and placed obliquely one row at right
angles to the other. Each enclosure had an entrance facing north.’ He concludes that
the ruin was constructed to protect the gold, ‘numbers of pits fifty feet deep being
found in the vicinity.’ This pattern, the construction, and the object undoubtedly
connect these ruins with those which I shall presently describe.
</p>
<p>Mr. G. Philips, an old hunter in these parts, said at the Royal Geographical Society’s
meeting, November 24, 1890, of the Zimbabwe ruins, ‘They are exactly like others I
have seen in the country—the same zigzag patterns and the mortarless walls of small
hewn stones. When hunting in the mountains to the west of this I came on a regular
line of these ruins, and one must have been a tremendously big place. There were three
distinct gateways in the outer wall, which I suppose was at least thirty feet thick
at the base, and one of those immense ironwood trees (<i>hartekol</i>), that would have taken hundreds of years to grow, had grown up through a crevice
in the wall and rent it asunder.’ He also described another ruin north-west of Tati.
‘The walls are twelve to fifteen feet thick, and it is entered by a passage so arranged
as to be commanded by archers from the interior, and it only admits of the passage
of one at a time.’
<span class="pageNum" id="pb97">[<a href="#pb97">97</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p097width" id="p097"><img src="images/p097.jpg" alt="RUIN ON THE LUNDI RIVER" width="720" height="550"><p class="figureHead">RUIN ON THE LUNDI RIVER</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb99">[<a href="#pb99">99</a>]</span></p>
<p>Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund, in speaking of the ruins at Tati and on the Impakwe, says, ‘As I
have said, these ruins are always found near gold workings; they are built in the
same way of granite, hewn into small blocks somewhat bigger than a brick, and put
together without mortar. In the base of both of these there is the same herring-bone
course as at Zimbabwe, though nearer the base of the wall.… The remains on the Impakwe
are similar in construction and are within fifty yards of the river; it was evidently
an octagonal tower.’ Mr. Moffat, our political agent in Matabeleland, in speaking
to me about this ruin, told me how it had been much demolished during his recollection,
owing to the fact that all waggons going up to Matabeleland outspan near it, and the
men assist at its demolition.
</p>
<p>There is another ruin of a similar character near where the River Elibi flows into
the Limpopo, and another further up the Mazoe Valley than the one we visited.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2289src" href="#xd31e2289">1</a>
</p>
<p>I have alluded to these ruins, which I have not seen, to prove the great area over
which they are spread, and I have little doubt that as the country gets opened out
a great many more will be brought to light, proving the extensive population which
once lived here as a garrison in a hostile country, for the sake of the gold which
they extracted from the mines in the quartz reefs between the Zambesi and Limpopo
Rivers.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb100">[<a href="#pb100">100</a>]</span></p>
<p>From personal experience I can speak of the ruins on the Lundi River; of those at
and near Zimbabwe; of the chain of forts on the Sabi River, including Metemo, Matindela,
Chilonga, and Chiburwe, and the fort in the Mazoe gold fields, all of which belong
to the same period, and were built by the same race, and agree in character with those
described by Messrs. Philips and Maund on the Tati, Impakwe, and elsewhere, and are
quite distinct from the more modern structures in Mangwendi’s and Makoni’s countries,
which we visited towards the end of our tour and which I shall describe in <a href="#ch11">Chapter XI</a>.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p101width" id="p101"><img src="images/p101.jpg" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF ZIMBABWE" width="720" height="493"><p class="figureHead">GENERAL VIEW OF ZIMBABWE</p>
<p class="first">ACROPOLIS OUR CAMP CIRCULAR RUIN </p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The circular ruin erected on a low granite eminence of about five hundred yards from
the Lundi River is of exceeding insignificance when compared with those of Zimbabwe
and Matindela: it is only fifty-four feet in diameter, and the original wall was only
five feet thick; the courses are very regular and neatly put together without mortar,
and the stones, of granite, are of a uniform size, broken into blocks about twice
the size of an ordinary brick. It had two entrances, one to the north and another
to the south-east, the latter being carefully walled up with an inserted structure
in which the courses are carried out with a carefulness similar to the walls of the
rest of the building. The interesting features of this ruin are the patterns in three
tiers beginning at a few feet from the northern entrance, the two lower ones consisting
of a herring-bone pattern, formed by the stones being placed obliquely in contrary
directions <span class="pageNum" id="pb103">[<a href="#pb103">103</a>]</span>in each tier, whilst the upper pattern is produced by regular gaps of two inches being
left between the stones in two of the courses. Nearly facing the rising sun at the
equinox is a curious bulge, about two feet deep, constructed in the wall. At this
bulge the two lower rows of ornamentation terminate, but the upper one is carried
on round it as far as the south-eastern entrance. There can be little doubt that these
patterns, found on nearly all the Mashonaland ruins, were constructed for a purpose;
they only go round a portion of the buildings; they have always the same aspect—namely,
south-east—and one cannot dissociate these circular buildings and the patterns from
some form of sun worship. ‘The circle is a sacred enclosure,’ says Major Conder in
his ‘Heth and Moab,’ ‘without which the Arab still stands with his face to the rising
sun.’ Into this question of solstitial orientation in connection with the ruins Mr.
Swan will enter at length in the <a href="#ch5">ensuing chapter</a>.
</p>
<p>The Lundi ruin had a cement floor, similar to those floors which we afterwards frequently
came across in the Zimbabwe buildings; it would appear to have acted the double function
of a fortress and a temple, guarding a population settled here on the river’s bank,
who built their huts around it.
</p>
<p>The ruins of the Great Zimbabwe (which name I have applied to them to distinguish
them from the numerous minor Zimbabwes scattered over the country) are situated in
south latitude 20° 16′ 30″, <span class="pageNum" id="pb104">[<a href="#pb104">104</a>]</span>and east longitude 31° 10′ 10″, on the high plateau of Mashonaland, 3,300 feet above
the sea level, and form the capital of a long series of such ruins stretching up the
whole length of the western side of the Sabi River. They are built on granite, and
of granite, quartz reefs being found at a distance of a few miles.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p104width">
<p class="figureHead">PLAN OF RUINS AT MATINDELA.</p><img src="images/p104.png" alt="PLAN OF RUINS AT MATINDELA." width="395" height="720"><div class="figAnnotation p104width"><span class="figBottom small"><i>Longmans Green &amp; Co., London &amp; New York</i>
</span><span class="figBottomRight xs"><i>F S Waller</i> </span></div>
<p class="first"></p>
<ul>
<li>A. <i>Winter Solstice</i> </li>
<li>B. <i>Equinox</i> </li>
<li>C. <i>Summer Solstice</i> </li>
</ul><p>
</p>
<p>PLAN OF CIRCULAR RUINS AT ZIMBABWE.
</p>
<p><i>From</i> A <i>to</i> B <i>ornaments extend on outer wall</i>
</p>
<ul>
<li>D <i>Tower</i> 32 <i>feet high</i> </li>
<li>E <i>Raised Platform</i> </li>
<li>F <i>Little Tower</i> </li>
<li>H <i>Stairs</i> </li>
<li>I <i>Wall here is</i> 7 <i>feet high above threshold and</i> 4 <i>feet below it</i> </li>
<li>M′ M″ <i>Standing stones</i>; M′ <i>is</i> 15 <i>f<sup>t</sup></i>, M″ 10 <i>f<sup>t</sup></i> 2 <i>in</i> </li>
<li>P <i>Centre of arc behind tower</i> </li>
<li>S <i>Hole through wall</i> 5″ <i>square</i> 4′ <i>above base</i> </li>
<li>V <i>Here are courses of green Chlorine Schist alternating with Granite.</i> </li>
</ul><p>
</p>
<p><i>Walls with more regular courses are colored darker</i>
</p>
<p><i>Figures on walls give height in feet above base</i>
</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The prominent features of the Great Zimbabwe ruins, which cover a large area of ground,
are, firstly, the large circular ruin with its round tower on the edge of a gentle
slope on the plain below; secondly, the mass of ruins in the valley immediately beneath
this; and thirdly, the intricate fortress on the granite hill above, acting as the
acropolis of the ancient city. These we will now discuss in their order.
</p>
<p>When we reached the Great Zimbabwe the circular ruin was on the inside a dense mass
of tropical vegetation; creepers and monkey ropes hung in matted confusion to the
tall trees, forming a jungle which it was almost impossible to penetrate, and added
to the mazy labyrinth of walls a peculiar and almost awe-inspiring mystery.
</p>
<p>It was the work of some days to clear this off with the aid of native workmen, whilst
at the same time we proceeded with our excavations in the neighbourhood of the tower
and other prominent portions of the building.
</p>
<p>As for the walls themselves, they were nearly free from vegetation, for, owing to
the absence of mortar, no lichen, moss, nor creeper could thrive on them, <span class="pageNum" id="pb105">[<a href="#pb105">105</a>]</span>and those few things which had penetrated into crevices were of a succulent character,
which formed their branches to the shape of the interstices. To this fact is due the
wonderful state of preservation in which these ruins are found.
</p>
<p>What appeared at first sight to be a true circle eventually proved elliptical—a form
of temple found at Marib, the ancient Saba and capital of the Sabæan kingdom in Arabia,
and at the Castle of Nakab al Hajar, also in that country.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2433src" href="#xd31e2433">2</a> Its greatest length is 280 feet; the wall at its highest point is thirty-five feet
above the ground, and fifteen feet at the lowest; its greatest base thickness is sixteen
feet two inches, and its thinnest point is about five feet. In the structure of the
wall one very noticeable feature is that the portion to the south-east is very much
better built, and is both thicker and higher: here the courses are marvellously true,
as if built with a levelling line, and the stones, of granite hammered into shape,
are exactly the same size, whereas on the north-west side and in some of the interior
walls, which are marked in a lighter colour on the plan, the courses begin to get
slightly irregular, and the stones of unequal size, suggesting almost a different
period of workmanship; but then there is no point where the good definitely ends or
the bad begins, except at a short gap on the northern side, where the good wall would
seem to have been continued more in a northerly direction, and the <span class="pageNum" id="pb106">[<a href="#pb106">106</a>]</span>inferior wall to have been brought round to meet it.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p106width" id="p106"><img src="images/p106.png" alt="MAIN ENTRANCE" width="543" height="391"><p class="figureHead">MAIN ENTRANCE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>There are three entrances to this circular building. The principal one, only three
feet wide, faces the hill fortress and the north. It has an odd curvature in it, constructed
evidently true north, whereas all the other entrances are straight. Below this entrance
runs a very substantial substructure wall, and the little space immediately inside
it was covered with a thick cement, made out of powdered granite, out of which steps
had been formed leading down to the various passages which converge here from the
centre of the building. The presence of this concrete in use for <span class="pageNum" id="pb109">[<a href="#pb109">109</a>]</span>flooring and steps in buildings constructed without mortar is interesting, showing
that dry building was used not from necessity but from choice.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p107width" id="p107"><img src="images/p107.jpg" alt="LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN. ZIMBABWE" width="720" height="473"><p class="figureHead">LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The entrance to the north-west had been walled up, and we had to climb over a heap
of stones to gain admittance until it was opened out. It is narrow and straight, and
protected by two buttresses on the inside. The wall here is very inferior to what
it is at the main entrance. There was also another entrance between these two, presumably
merely a sally-port in the wall, the lintel of which had consisted of wooden beams,
which had been burnt, and on their giving way the wall above had also fallen down.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p109width" id="p109"><img src="images/p109.png" alt="PATTERN ON LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN AT ZIMBABWE" width="350" height="226"><p class="figureHead">PATTERN ON LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN AT ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Of the outer wall of the circular building the most interesting portion is decidedly
that to the south-east. A few courses below the summit on the outside, from point
A to point B on the plan, runs the pattern, formed by two courses having the stones
placed chevron-wise, neatly fitted in with smaller <span class="pageNum" id="pb110">[<a href="#pb110">110</a>]</span>stones receding a little, so as to make the pattern at a distance appear as if it
stood out in relief, whereas it is really flush with the wall. This pattern coincides
with the sacred enclosure inside, terminating at point B exactly where the enclosure
terminates, and at the other end at point A about half-way down the narrow passage,
forming thus an arc of one and a half right angle. Its connection with the sanctity
of the place is obvious, and into its relation to the orientation of the temple Mr.
Swan will enter fully in the <a href="#ch5">ensuing chapter</a>. Along this portion of the wall, and on this only, large monoliths were inserted,
most of which have fallen away; but those still standing show that they were equidistant.
Here too the top of the wall has been neatly paved with slabs of granite, and must
have formed a broad promenade, presumably approached by steps from a point near the
main entrance. Here one can still walk with ease, whereas on the inferior portion
of the wall it is now scarcely possible to scramble.
</p>
<p>The labyrinthine character of the interior will be best grasped by a glance at the
plan. Entering from the northern portal, we at once plunge into its intricacies. The
great and astounding feature is the long narrow passage leading direct from the main
entrance to the sacred enclosure, so narrow in parts that two people cannot walk abreast,
whilst on either side of you rise the stupendous walls, thirty feet in height, and
built with such evenness of courses and symmetry that as a specimen of the dry builder’s
<span class="pageNum" id="pb111">[<a href="#pb111">111</a>]</span>art it is without a parallel. The large blocks of cut stone used in Egyptian, Greek,
and Roman masonry must have been comparatively easy to deal with as compared with
these small stones of rough granite built in even courses in a circular wall of immense
thickness and height. The idea at once suggests itself that the people who erected
these walls had at one time been accustomed to build in bricks, and that in the absence
of this material they had perfected a system of stone-building to represent as nearly
as possible the appearance of brick; also another reason for the use of small stones
may have been to enable them to construct the tower and curves with greater accuracy.
The facings of the stones are all uniform, but most of them run back into the wall
irregularly, acting in the same way as <i>throughs</i> in our dry-built walls at home in preserving the building from falling. In this narrow
passage, at point S, is the remarkable hole, executed with perfect neatness through
the thickest part of the wall, about the actual use of which I am able to give no
definite theory. It could not have been used for drainage or defence; and in the fortress
above there are two similar tunnels equally inexplicable.
</p>
<p>The actual approaches to the sacred enclosure are most carefully defended with buttresses
on either side, into which a form of portcullis has been fixed, with two grooves,
one running down each side, presumably originally intended to receive a wooden door;
but at a later period all these entrances have been <span class="pageNum" id="pb112">[<a href="#pb112">112</a>]</span>carefully walled up, for what purpose it is difficult to say. It naturally occurred
to us that this had been done at a time of danger for protection, but the neatness
with which the blocking-up walls are executed is against this theory.
</p>
<p>At point V on the plan there is a remarkable instance of the two periods of building.
Here, in front of the sacred enclosure, the wall was decorated with courses of black
slate in the older and better wall, whereas they are omitted in the inferior continuation.
</p>
<p>At point E there is a raised platform immediately in front of the large round tower,
covered with a flooring of thick cement, supported by large stones loosely packed
together, into which a monolith had been stuck. This platform was connected with the
sacred enclosure by a flight of cement steps, and was presumably used for religious
purposes.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p113width" id="p113"><img src="images/p113.jpg" alt="LARGE ROUND TOWER IN CIRCULAR RUIN. ZIMBABWE" width="720" height="495"><p class="figureHead">LARGE ROUND TOWER IN CIRCULAR RUIN. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>In dealing with the two remarkable round towers which stood in the sacred enclosure,
one cannot lay too much stress on the symmetry of the courses and the accuracy with
which they have been built. They stand in the centre of the sacred enclosure, which
was floored with cement. By digging to their foundations we were able to get very
accurate measurements of them, and found that the circumference of the smaller one
corresponds exactly to the diameter of the big one, and the diameter of the big one
is apparently equal to half its original height, and its circumference again is equal
to the diameter of the round building on the Lundi River. The battering of <span class="pageNum" id="pb115">[<a href="#pb115">115</a>]</span>the big tower is carried out with mathematical accuracy, the slope of the curve being
perfectly regular, and is produced by placing the superincumbent stones in a slightly
receding position, so that with the aid of a monkey rope we were able to climb to
the top. A few courses below the summit, which would seem to be very much in its original
condition except on the south side, where Herr Mauch confesses to have pulled down
the stones of several courses, runs a dentelle pattern, marked D on the plan, formed
by placing the stones of one course edgeways. This pattern is the same as the lower
one given in the illustration of Matindela ruins, p. <a href="#pb137" class="pageref">137</a>; but unfortunately, owing to the demolition of the upper courses, it is impossible
to define its extent. The tower would seem to have been thirty-five feet in height,
and the summit to have been a level of about four feet in diameter. By digging below
this tower, and pulling out stones from the sides, which we carefully replaced, we
demonstrated to our satisfaction that it was solid. It was built on nothing but the
soil of the place, and was erected over nothing; the foundations go down for one foot
below the floor of cement which covered the enclosure, and it has been preserved to
us simply by its solidity, its long through stones, and the way in which the stones
have supported one another. We investigated the smaller tower very thoroughly, and
found it also solid.
</p>
<p>The religious purport of these towers would seem to be conclusively proved by the
numerous finds we <span class="pageNum" id="pb116">[<a href="#pb116">116</a>]</span>made in other parts of the ruins of a phallic nature (<i>vide</i> <a href="#ch6">Chap. VI</a>.), and I think a quotation from Montfaucon’s ‘<span lang="fr">L’Antiquité Expliquée</span>’ will give us the keynote of the worship. ‘The ancients assure us that all the Arabians
worshipped a tower, which they called El Acara or Alquetila, which was built by their
patriarch, Ishmael.’ ‘Maximus of Tyre says they honoured as a great god a great cut
stone; this is apparently the same stone resembling Venus, according to Euthymius
Zygabenus. When the Saracens were converted to Christianity they were obliged to anathematise
this stone, which formerly they worshipped.’ This tower doubtless corresponded to
the sacred tower of the Midianites, called Penuel, or the ‘Face of God,’ which Gideon
destroyed (Judges viii. 7). Allusions to these towers are constant in the Bible, and
the Arabian historian El Masoudi further tells us that this stone or tower was eight
cubits high, and was placed in an angle of the temple, which had no roof. Turning
to Phœnician temple construction, we have a good parallel to the ruins of the Great
Zimbabwe at Byblos; as depicted on the coins, the tower or sacred cone is set up within
the temple precincts and shut off in an enclosure (<i>vide</i> illustration, p. <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a>). Similar work is also found in the round temples of the Cabiri, at Hadjar Kem in
Malta, and the construction of these buildings bears a remarkable resemblance to that
of those at Zimbabwe, and the round towers, or <i>nuraghs</i>, found in Sardinia may possibly be of similar significance. MM. Perrot <span class="pageNum" id="pb117">[<a href="#pb117">117</a>]</span>and Chipiez, in their ‘History of Art in Sardinia,’ speak of these <i>nuraghs</i> as forts or temples, around which the primitive inhabitants of the island once lived.
They are ‘truncated cones, built with stone blocks of different sizes, narrowing to
the top. The stones are unhewn as a rule and laid on without mortar.’ Here too we
have a parallel for our monoliths, menhirs of unhewn stone, and also for the phalli,
specimens of which are found carved on stone (p. <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>, figs. 49 and 50), and here too the intricate plan of the fortresses suggests at
once a parallel to those at Zimbabwe; hence it would appear that the same influence
was at work in Sardinia as in South Africa. In Lucian’s ‘De Syriâ Deâ,’ which we shall
have occasion again to quote when discussing our finds in <a href="#ch6">Chapter VI</a>., we find a description of a temple at Hierapolis, in Mesopotamia, in the propylæa
of which, he tells us (§ 16), ‘there stood two very large phalli, about thirty cubits
high.’ Our tower at Zimbabwe stood apparently twenty cubits high and ten in diameter.
He further says (§ 29), ‘These phalli are solid, for when a priest had to ascend he
had to put a rope round himself and the phallus and walk up.’
</p>
<p>Herr Mauch, in his account of Zimbabwe, alludes to a sacrifice which took place here
amongst the natives in his day (1871). This ceremony seems to correspond very closely
to the sacrifice celebrated elsewhere in this country to the spirits of their ancestors.
It is pretty evident that another tribe of Kaffirs dwelt near Zimbabwe at that time,
who <span class="pageNum" id="pb118">[<a href="#pb118">118</a>]</span>looked upon the circular building as sacred; whereas the present people do not seem
to look upon it with any religious superstition, which will account for the growth
of vegetable matter inside only during late years. This was further evidenced by our
excavations in this building; we found but little depth of soil, very little <i>débris</i>, and indications of a Kaffir occupation of the place up to a very recent date, and
no remains like those we afterwards discovered in the fortress.
</p>
<p>The rest of the circular building, as the plan shows, is divided off into various
smaller enclosures, and in one spot we imagine, by comparison with the temples on
the hill, an altar stood; it is now only a heap of rubbish. There are also three remarkable
monoliths erected in it, two near the north-western entrance and one behind the altar.
They are about 11 feet in height—rough, unhewn blocks of granite, firmly buried in
the ground. On the hill fortress, and also, as I have said, on the wall of the circular
building, the quantity of monoliths is very marked, and stone-worship seems to have
formed an integral feature in the ancient cult of this place. MM. Perrot and Chipiez
write (vol. i. p. 58), ‘We find the worship of betylæ (<span class="trans" title="baitylia"><span lang="grc" class="grek">βαιτύλια</span></span>, bethels, <i>i.e.</i> sacred stones) in every country reached by Phœnician influence’ (<i>vide</i> <a href="#ch6">Chap. VI</a><span class="corr" id="xd31e2539" title="Source: .)">).</span> Probably we shall be more correct in considering it an even more remote Semitic influence,
which continued in vogue amongst the Phœnicians until more recent times. Palgrave
in his <span class="pageNum" id="pb119">[<a href="#pb119">119</a>]</span>Arabian travels also speaks of the many monoliths he saw in Lower Nejed: ‘Huge stones,
like enormous boulders, placed endways perpendicularly on the soil. They were arranged
in a curve, once forming part, it would appear, of a large circle.… That the object
of these strange constructions was in some measure religious seems to me hardly doubtful
… in fact, there is little difference between the stone wonder of Kaseem and that
of Wiltshire’ (Stonehenge).
</p>
<p>The valley between the lower circular ruin and the fortress on the hill is a mass
of ruins. About a hundred yards from it, and connected by a wall, is a curious angular
enclosure, divided into several chambers at different levels; it has three entrances,
all of which are straight, like those at the Lundi and Matindela, and not rounded
off like those in the circular ruin. The main entrance leads into two narrow passages:
the one going to the left is protected by an ambuscade; the other, going to the right,
ascends a slope, at the top of which evidently once stood two round towers, the bases
of which we excavated, and near them we found several long pillars, presumably fallen
monoliths. But here again the Kaffirs had been living until a recent date, and consequently
we made no discoveries here. Outside this ruin we opened three kitchen middens, and
came across one or two small articles of interest.
</p>
<p>Sloping down from this ruin into the valley below a narrow passage conducts one through
a perfect <span class="pageNum" id="pb120">[<a href="#pb120">120</a>]</span>labyrinth of ruins. Some of these, notably the large circular erection just outside
the big temple, are of very inferior workmanship, and would appear to have been constructed
at a much later period; whereas the wall surrounding a large space at the bottom of
the valley is as good as the best part of the large circular building. We did not
attempt any excavation amongst these, and if we had I expect the results would have
been unsatisfactory. All the surface of them has been dug over and over again by generations
of Kaffirs for their mealy fields. There is a great growth of brushwood, and probably
a considerable depth of soil, which our limited appliances and inexperienced workmen
would have found it hard to deal with.
</p>
<p>Again and again these circular ruins repeat themselves, always, if possible, occupying
a slightly raised ground for about a mile along a low ridge, acting, doubtless, the
double purpose of temples and fortresses for separate communities, the inhabitants
dwelling in beehive huts of mud around. This, to my mind, is the probable restoration
of this ancient African settlement.
</p>
<p>Down the valley to the north-west runs a long wall of irregular stones, roughly put
together, for a mile or more—such a wall as Kaffirs would erect to-day to protect
themselves from the advance of an enemy. This I do not connect with the more ancient
and regularly built edifices, but it probably owes its erection to a period when Zulu
hordes <span class="pageNum" id="pb121">[<a href="#pb121">121</a>]</span>swept down on the more peaceful and effeminate descendants of the Monomatapa.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p121width"><img src="images/p121.png" alt="PLAN OF RUINS ON ZIMBABWE HILL" width="720" height="422"><div class="figAnnotation p121width"><span class="figBottom"><i>Longmans Green &amp; Co., London &amp; New York</i> </span></div>
<p class="figureHead">PLAN OF RUINS ON ZIMBABWE HILL</p>
<p class="first">PLAN OF RUINS NEAR RIVER LUNDE
</p>
<p>PLAN OF LITTLE ZIMBABWE RUINS
</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Many were the miles we walked in every direction, around and on the hill fortress,
to the east, west, north, and south, intent on one object—namely, that of finding
indications of a cemetery, which the ancient inhabitants of these ruins might have
used—but our searches were always in vain. Kaffir remains we found in abundance, and
a small cemetery of some twenty graves of rough stone piled over the bodies, about
ten miles from Zimbabwe, also Kaffir, but nothing else. Consequently we came to the
conclusion that the ancient inhabitants, who formed but a garrison in this country,
were in the habit of removing their dead to some safer place. This plan seems to have
a parallel in Arabia in antiquity, a notable instance of which is to be found on the
Bahrein Islands, in the Persian Gulf, where acres and acres of mounds contain thousands
of tombs, and no vestige of a town is to be found anywhere near them. The custom still
prevails amongst the Mohammedans of Persia, who transport their dead to such places
as Kerbela, Meshed, and Kum, to rest in the vicinity of some sacred shrine; and the
absence of any burial place near Zimbabwe would seem to point to the same custom having
prevailed here.
</p>
<p>Having failed to bring to light any definite records of the past during the first
fortnight of our work, we naturally cast our eyes around for the most likely spot
to carry on our work, and our <span class="pageNum" id="pb122">[<a href="#pb122">122</a>]</span>choice fell on the south-western portion of the hill fortress. Here were certain indications
which struck us as favourable, and furthermore it occurred to us that a spot situated
on the shady side of the hill behind the great rock might possibly be free from Kaffir
desecration; and the results of our excavations on this spot proved this to be the
case, for here, and here only, did we come across relics of the past in our digging.
In fact, the ancient builders seemed to have originally chosen the most shady spots
for their buildings. Undoubtedly the oldest portions of the Zimbabwe ruins are those
running along the sunless side of the hill fortress; on the other side, where now
the Kaffir village is, we found hardly any trace of ancient structures. Our difficulty
was to get the shivering Kaffirs to work there, for whenever our backs were turned
they would hurry off to bask in the rays of their beloved sun.
</p>
<p>I will now proceed to describe the hill fortress, approaching it from the valley below.
The labyrinthine nature of this fortress will best be realised by a glance at the
accompanying plan. The <i>kopje</i> itself is of great natural strength, being protected on one side by gigantic granite
boulders, and on the south by a precipice from seventy to ninety feet in height, and
on the only accessible side the ancient inhabitants constructed a wall of massive
thickness, like those of the ruins below. This wall is thirteen feet thick on the
summit, with a batter of one foot in six; it is thirty feet high in parts, and the
flat <span class="pageNum" id="pb123">[<a href="#pb123">123</a>]</span>causeway on the top was decorated on the outside edge by a succession of small round
towers alternating with tall monoliths; seven round towers in all we made out, about
three feet in diameter, and several others had been destroyed by the fall of a portion
of the wall. This system of round towers and monoliths produces one of the most peculiar
and unique forms of decoration I have ever seen.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p123width" id="p123"><img src="images/p123.jpg" alt="ROUND TOWER AND MONOLITH DECORATION ON THE FORTRESS" width="567" height="421"><p class="figureHead">ROUND TOWER AND MONOLITH DECORATION ON THE FORTRESS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>To open out the approach to this fortress town was a work of considerable time and
labour; it will easily be seen by the plan how intricate it is, protected at every
turn with traverses and ambuscades, <span class="pageNum" id="pb124">[<a href="#pb124">124</a>]</span>and there commences at the bottom of the precipice a flight of steps leading up the
steep ascent. The architects availed themselves of a narrow slit in the granite boulder,
up which the steps led, the passage being exceedingly narrow; then the path divided
into two, one path turning abruptly to the right, and at the turning a pretty little
bit of wall with the stones placed pointways for about a yard relieved the monotony
and formed a sort of dentelle pattern; then it led along a narrow ledge over the precipice,
and in spite of the impossibility of attack at such a point it was nevertheless protected
by traverses even here. In fact, the redundancy of fortification all over this mountain,
the useless repetition of walls over a precipice itself inaccessible, the care with
which every hole in the boulders through which an arrow could pass is closed, prove
that the occupants were in constant dread of attack, and lived like a garrison in
the heart of an enemy’s country.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p125width" id="p125"><img src="images/p125.jpg" alt="APPROACH TO THE ACROPOLIS" width="488" height="720"><p class="figureHead">APPROACH TO THE ACROPOLIS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>At the summit of the mountain are huge boulders about fifty feet high. Immediately
below the highest is a curious little plateau which had been decorated by the ancient
occupiers; it is approached by narrow passages and steps on either side, and a curious
passage through the wall below, covered with huge beams of granite to support the
superincumbent weight. The steps on one side were made of the same strong cement,
and the wall to the left was decorated with the same design of stones, placed edgeways
for six rows, that we had <span class="pageNum" id="pb127">[<a href="#pb127">127</a>]</span>found at the angle of the approach. The little plateau itself was adorned with huge
monoliths and decorated pillars of soapstone, the patterns on which were chiefly of
a geometric character, and one of which was eleven and a half feet in height. Here
too we unearthed many stones of natural but curious forms, to which I shall have again
occasion to refer in <a href="#ch6">Chapter VI</a>.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p127width" id="p127"><img src="images/p127.jpg" alt="THE PLATFORM WITH MONOLITHS, ETC., ON THE FORTRESS" width="576" height="419"><p class="figureHead">THE PLATFORM WITH MONOLITHS, ETC., ON THE FORTRESS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The large semicircular space below this platform was a dense jungle when we started
to work upon it, consisting of nettles of extraordinary pricking powers and other
obnoxious plants, which our <span class="pageNum" id="pb128">[<a href="#pb128">128</a>]</span>natives cleared away with marvellous dexterity. In the centre of this building stood
an altar covered with a thick coating of cement, and several large blocks of cement
were lying about. In a wall in this enclosure was another of those curious holes pierced
through its thickness, and there was plenty of evidence to show that this had once
been a most prominent point in the ancient structure, forming, as it does, by far
the largest available level space on the fortress, and must probably have been used
as an agora, where from the platform an assembled crowd could have been addressed,
and for religious celebrations on a large scale. The view from it is extensive and
magnificent over the Livouri and Bessa ranges, and situated, as it is, far above the
level of the marshy ground below, it would be healthy and habitable during all seasons
of the year.
</p>
<p>The labyrinthine nature of the buildings now before us baffles description. In one
place is a narrow sloping gully, four feet across, ascending between two boulders,
and protected, for no conceivable reason, by six alternate buttresses and a wall at
the upper end, forming a zigzag passage narrowed in one place to ten inches. Walls
of huge size shut off separate chambers. In all directions everything is tortuous;
every inch of ground is protected with buttresses and traverses. Here too, as in the
large circular building below, all the entrances are rounded off, and I imagine that
here we have quite the oldest portion of the ruins, built at a time when defence was
the main <span class="pageNum" id="pb129">[<a href="#pb129">129</a>]</span>object. When they were able to do so with safety, they next constructed the circular
temple below, and as time went on they erected the more carelessly put together buildings
around, which I have described.
</p>
<p>The south-western end of this line of ruins was obviously a temple; it has been lately
used as a cattle pen by the chief, but the soil has not been disturbed. On removing
the soil we came across a level cement floor, supported on an elaborate system of
under-walls filled up with large stones on which the cement floor rested, as was the
case in the raised platform in the circular temple below. In the centre stood the
altar, an angular structure of small granite blocks, which fell to pieces a short
time after exposure to the air; when we removed the soil which had buried this altar,
around it we found the phalli, the birds or soapstone pillars, and fragments of soapstone
bowls, which I shall subsequently describe more in detail.
</p>
<p>On a portion of the wall outside, as in the circular building below, ran a pattern—a
dentelle pattern formed by placing the stones edgeways, with exactly the same aspect
as the pattern below. To the north of the temple a steep ascent, constructed on supporting
walls, led through the granite boulders to a hollow space walled in on one side, and
protected by the rocks on the other three; a rounded buttress guarded the entrance,
and in the centre stood two tall monoliths of slate firmly fixed into the cement floor
and the stones beneath; from this spot a slope led up to <span class="pageNum" id="pb130">[<a href="#pb130">130</a>]</span>the top of the rock, on which a terrace had been constructed overlooking the temple
and facing the rising sun. Another gully between two boulders, only wide enough for
one man to pass at a time, led out of the temple to the side where the modern Kaffir
village is. This had also been anciently strongly protected.
</p>
<p>The temple was approached from the lower ridge above the precipice by a narrow passage
between two high walls gently ascending to a flight of steps. This passage ended in
a most curious architectural feature—namely, steps were formed leading to the temple
on the one side, and apparently only for ornamentation on the other, by continuing
the rounded courses of the outer wall so that they produced the effect of two miniature
theatres facing one another, and proving almost more than any other point amongst
the ruins the high pitch to which the ancient builders had brought their knowledge
of keeping even courses in dry building. This point in the architecture proves the
especial attention paid by the constructors to curves, and these curves would seem
to have been constructed on the same principle as the curves in the large circular
building which Mr. Swan will discuss in <a href="#ch5">Chapter V</a>.
</p>
<p>Adjoining the temple to the north is another semicircular building, the inner wall
of which has six vertical rows, six feet high, let into the construction, as if for
beams, with a ledge on the top, as if for a roof. We were unable to form any opinion
as to the <span class="pageNum" id="pb131">[<a href="#pb131">131</a>]</span>use of this chamber, and though we emptied it of soil we found nothing in it.
</p>
<p>Between two boulders to the north-west of the temple led a narrow passage, tortuously
winding, with walls on either side wedged up against the boulders, and every conceivable
hole in the rocks was walled up. This passage led to another open space protected
on two sides by rocks and on two by walls. This space was also full of wall foundations;
but, being open to the sun, it had been occupied and ransacked by the Kaffirs.
</p>
<p>To the south of the temple a flight of steps led down to the gold-smelting furnaces
and the caves, of which I shall speak more at length in connection with the finds.
This corner of the building was the only one in which our excavations were successful,
and I entirely attribute this fact to its chilly and shady position—a spot studiously
avoided by the succeeding generations of Kaffir tribes for this reason. Below the
temple at the bottom of the precipice we commenced work, with great hope of finding
the other portions of the bowls, &amp;c., which we had found above. Here there is an enormous
mass of fallen stones from the buildings above, but amongst them we found surprisingly
little of interest. Perhaps a thorough excavation of this slope would yield further
results, as so many of our finds in the temple above are fragmentary, and the presumption
is that the other portions were thrown over the precipice; but <span class="pageNum" id="pb132">[<a href="#pb132">132</a>]</span>this will be a gigantic work, entailing an enormous amount of labour and expenditure.
</p>
<p>Such is the great fortress of Zimbabwe, the most mysterious and complex structure
that it has ever been my fate to look upon. Vainly one tries to realise what it must
have been like in the days before ruin fell upon it, with its tortuous and well-guarded
approaches, its walls bristling with monoliths and round towers, its temple decorated
with tall, weird-looking birds, its huge decorated bowls, and in the innermost recesses
its busy gold-producing furnace. What was this life like? Why did the inhabitants
so carefully guard themselves against attack? A thousand questions occur to one which
one longs in vain to answer. The only parallel sensation that I have had was when
viewing the long avenues of menhirs near Carnac, in Brittany, a sensation at once
fascinating and vexatious, for one feels the utter hopelessness of knowing all one
would wish on the subject. When taken alone this fortress is sufficiently a marvel;
but when taken together with the large circular building below, the numerous ruins
scattered around, the other ruins of a like nature at a distance, one cannot fail
to recognise the vastness and power of this ancient race, their great constructive
ingenuity and strategic skill.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p133width" id="p133"><img src="images/p133.jpg" alt="APPROACH TO THE FORTRESS BY THE CLEFT. ZIMBABWE" width="453" height="720"><p class="figureHead">APPROACH TO THE FORTRESS BY THE CLEFT. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>About eight miles from Zimbabwe, standing alone in a fertile valley, there is another
ruin which we visited, presumably of a later and inferior date, for the courses and
stones are irregular and correspond to the later constructions at Zimbabwe. It too
stands <span class="pageNum" id="pb135">[<a href="#pb135">135</a>]</span>on a flat granite rock, and its structure is equally intricate, as will be seen from
the plan. The natives know it by the name of the Little Zimbabwe, but for purposes
of investigation into the origin of the constructing race it affords us no special
point of value, which is the case also with most of the other ruins which we visited,
and nothing need be said about them except to point out their existence. These remarks
refer to the ruins which we found at Metemo, Chilondillo, Chiburwe, and in the Mazoe
valley, all of which were obviously erected as forts to protect a surrounding population.
Some of them are of the best period of workmanship, notably those at Chiburwe and
in the Mazoe valley; others are of inferior workmanship, with uneven courses and irregularly
shaped blocks of granite, proving that, as we find the two periods side by side at
the Great Zimbabwe, also we have them scattered over the country.
</p>
<p>The great ruin at Matindela is second only in importance to the Great Zimbabwe itself,
and merits a close description.
</p>
<p>The circular building at Matindela encloses an area not far short of that enclosed
by the large circular building at the Great Zimbabwe; it crowns a low sloping granite
<i>kopje</i> about 150 feet in height. The place is full of huge baobab trees, two of which in
their growth have pushed down and grown up in the walls themselves. There are those
that tell us about the fabulous age of the baobab, attributing an age of 5,000 years
to the larger ones. The Director of <span class="pageNum" id="pb136">[<a href="#pb136">136</a>]</span>Kew Gardens, Mr. Thiselton Dyer, tells me that this is grossly exaggerated, and that
a few centuries is probably all that can be attributed to the very largest. Be this
as it may, the baobabs have grown up and arrived at maturity long after the building
of the Matindela ruins and their subsequent abandonment.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p136width" id="p136"><img src="images/p136.png" alt="BAOBAB TREE IN MATINDELA RUINS" width="535" height="381"><p class="figureHead">BAOBAB TREE IN MATINDELA RUINS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The best built portion of the wall has the same aspect as that at the Great Zimbabwe;
but the other side, corresponding to the worst built part of the Zimbabwe wall, has
never been completed at Matindela; the fact that the south-eastern side has been so
strongly built and so much trouble has been spent on its decoration, and that the
north side is comparatively <span class="pageNum" id="pb137">[<a href="#pb137">137</a>]</span>open and neglected, and that the hill is equally assailable from both sides, leads
one naturally to infer that the idea of a temple is here more prominent than that
of a fortress.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p137width" id="p137"><img src="images/p137.png" alt="WALLED-UP ENTRANCE AND PATTERN ON MATINDELA RUINS" width="535" height="245"><p class="figureHead">WALLED-UP ENTRANCE AND PATTERN ON MATINDELA RUINS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The walls at Matindela are nowhere more than fifteen feet in height, nor are the courses
nearly as regular as those at the Great Zimbabwe; but the great feature of interest
is here the arrangement of the patterns, which establish beyond a doubt that they
were inserted in the walls for a more complex purpose than mere ornamentation. The
arrangement of these patterns is as follows: First to the south-east comes the herring-bone
pattern, running over the chief entrance as a lintel for six yards. Here it ends,
and two feet below begins the dentelle pattern for the same distance; then the pattern
stops altogether on the outside, but there are indications that it was continued on
the inside instead. Then it is again inserted for forty feet on the outside, and finally
is again <span class="pageNum" id="pb138">[<a href="#pb138">138</a>]</span>put on the inside for the remainder of its extent—namely, thirteen feet. Above the
pattern and nearly over the principal entrance a curious loophole is still left standing,
and the best portion of the wall has been battlemented, the outside portion being
raised in front two or three feet higher than the back. The wall is eleven feet six
inches at its thickest, and on the top of it we saw holes in which monoliths evidently
once stood, as they did on the wall of the circular building at the Great Zimbabwe.
</p>
<p>Another very marked feature at Matindela is that the doorways are all square, like
those at the Lundi ruin, and not rounded off, as those at Zimbabwe, and then again
all these doorways have been walled up in an uniform fashion, the courses corresponding
exactly to those of the rest of the wall. In the original construction of the building
certain spaces of seven feet had been left in the wall; two feet on either side had
then been built up, thus leaving an entrance of three feet, which entrance in its
turn had also been walled up. Here, as at the Great Zimbabwe, the theory at once occurred
to me that these places had been walled up at a time of siege; but when one takes
into consideration the care with which these apertures have been walled up, and the
triple nature of the added wall, this theory seems untenable. The walling up of the
pylons in certain Egyptian temples at Karnak, which Prof. Norman Lockyer brought before
my notice, seems an apt parallel, though the reasons for so doing do not seem to my
mind at present sufficiently <span class="pageNum" id="pb139">[<a href="#pb139">139</a>]</span>proved. It must also be borne in mind that the walling up of the principal entrance
at Matindela must have taken place prior to the construction of the pattern which
rests upon it.
</p>
<p>The interior of this building, as will be seen from the plan, was divided up into
chambers, as the other ruins at Zimbabwe, but the walls here are much straighter,
and the circular system of construction seems to have been more or less abandoned.
I take it that this ruin at Matindela was constructed by the same race at a period
of decadence, when the old methods of building had fallen into desuetude.
</p>
<p>Outside the walls of the temple or fortress we found many circular foundations, very
regularly built of granite blocks, and varying in diameter from six to fifteen feet.
They were built in groups at considerable intervals apart, and we counted over forty
of them. Some of these circular foundations have a double circle, as if for a step;
the probability is that they formed the foundations of stone huts like those found
in the Marico district of the Transvaal, and were the homes of the ancient inhabitants
under the protecting wing of the temple-fortress. There are no traces of these circular
foundations within the walls of the enclosure, but all were found outside within a
radius of two hundred yards. There are traces, too, of other buildings about half-way
down the slope of the granite hills, two walls parallel to one another, about thirty
feet long, with doorways and six circular foundations outside them. There are also
two depressions <span class="pageNum" id="pb140">[<a href="#pb140">140</a>]</span>on the eastern side of the hill, now filled up with timber, which were probably the
quarries from which the builders obtained the stone for their work.
</p>
<p>About twelve miles to the north of Matindela, near a mountain called Chiburwe, on
another low granite hill, we found another fort with similar circular foundations
on the plain around it. This fort is about forty feet in diameter, and the walls are
of the best period, with courses far more even than those of Matindela, and the stones
of more uniform size and fitting more closely, corresponding to the best of the buildings
at the Great Zimbabwe. Here, too, was another gigantic baobab tree, which had grown
up in the wall and knocked it down; and here, too, the south-eastern portion of the
wall is much better and thicker than the rest, which has in places either never existed
or fallen down; but the destruction here was so complete that it was impossible to
tell if there ever had been a pattern on it or not.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb141">[<a href="#pb141">141</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2289">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2289src">1</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#ch9">Chap. IX</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2289src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2433">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2433src">2</a></span> <i>Encyclop. Brit.</i>&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2433src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch5" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e421">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER V</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>ON THE ORIENTATION AND MEASUREMENTS OF ZIMBABWE RUINS.</i>
</h2>
<p class="byline"><i>BY R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. SWAN.</i></p>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The form of nature worship which was practised at Zimbabwe found one of its expressions
in the worship of the sun, and we have evidence of this cult in some architectural
features and decorations of the temples themselves, and in the many images of the
solar disc which were found in the temples along with the other symbols of the worship
of reproductive power. It was very natural that these two cults should be associated
together or merged in one, and it was common to many early peoples to think of the
sun in conjunction with moisture as the great creator of all vegetable fertility,
for even the most casual observation would show them that in the dark days of winter
the vegetable world seemed to sleep, and that it only awoke to activity when the sun’s
rays had become more powerful and while the soil was still moistened by rain.
</p>
<p>All religions have their times and seasons for special ceremonies of worship, and
the appropriate time for the greatest of these festivals of solar worship <span class="pageNum" id="pb142">[<a href="#pb142">142</a>]</span>would be at mid-summer, when the sun seemed most brilliant and his rays most energetic.
Accordingly we find that at Zimbabwe means had been provided for ascertaining the
time of the summer solstice, and that the side of the temple which faced the rising
sun at this period of the year was adorned with a decoration symbolical of fertility.
</p>
<p>But the temples at Zimbabwe seem also to have served a more directly practical purpose
than that of mere worship of the powers of nature, and while regulating the festivals
held in honour of natural powers, to have provided the means of observing the passage
of the seasons and of fixing the limits of a tropical year, and thus providing the
elements of a calendar.
</p>
<p>The duration of a day is clearly marked by an apparent revolution of the sun, and
from the most remote antiquity a month has been equivalent to the length of a lunation;
but there is no equally obvious astronomical phenomenon to enable the length of the
year to be fixed; and although the difference between summer and winter is very apparent
in most climates, there is nothing which very obviously defines the limits of these
seasons, and the periods of spring and autumn are even less marked. But the dates
of all festivals in solar worship would have some relation to the seasons; and, besides,
the times for agricultural and many other operations would require to be fixed, and
it would thus be doubly necessary to find means of marking the progress of the year.
By most ancient peoples twelve lunations were considered to be equal <span class="pageNum" id="pb145">[<a href="#pb145">145</a>]</span>to a tropical year, but it was soon discovered that this was not so, for the several
months did not long coincide with their appropriate seasons, and so the history of
most ancient calendars tells of devices to make the twelve lunar months of 29½ days
each correspond with the tropical year of 365¼ days. At Zimbabwe things seem to have
been better arranged, unless there, too, as in ancient Egypt, they had their troublesome
civil year measured by twelve revolutions of the moon, in addition to their sacred
year measured in the temples by an apparent revolution of the sun among the stars.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p143width" id="p143"><img src="images/p143.jpg" alt="MAP OF ZIMBABWE DISTRICT." width="528" height="720"><p class="figureHead">MAP OF ZIMBABWE DISTRICT.</p>
<p class="first"><i>F.&nbsp;S. Weller</i> </p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The simplest way of ascertaining the period of a tropical year is by observing the
position of the sun relatively to the equator, or its declination, and this can conveniently
be done either when the sun is on the horizon or on the meridian, but most easily
with accuracy in the former way, as the angle to be subdivided will generally be greater,
and greater accuracy will be attained, because long shadows can more conveniently
be used in this way than in the other. Or the right ascension of the sun might also
be observed; that is, its place among the stars, or its position in the zodiac. This
can be found most readily by observing the heliacal rising of stars, or the meridian
passage of stars when the sun is near the horizon. At Zimbabwe all of these methods
seem to have been used, and to do so does not necessarily imply more astronomical
knowledge than is possessed by the peasantry in any of the more secluded districts
of <span class="pageNum" id="pb146">[<a href="#pb146">146</a>]</span>Europe, where watches are not much used, and where almanacks are not read, but where
the people have the habit of telling the time of the day and of the year by the motions
of the sun and of the stars; for to an agricultural people the change in position
of the sun in summer and winter is as obvious as the seasons themselves, and the variation
of the times of rising of the stars with the seasons can as little escape observation.
Herodotus tells us that the Greeks used the gnomon to measure the length of shadows,
and thus ascertain the position of the sun at midday, or its declination. The Chinese
also used it at a very early period, and we have similar arrangements in some of our
modern churches. Instances of the observation of the position of the sun on the horizon,
except at Zimbabwe, are few and doubtful, although gnomons seem sometimes to have
been used for this purpose; but ancient literature contains very many references to
the observation of the heliacal risings of stars, and ancient architectural remains
illustrate these literary allusions. Hesiod often speaks of the times of different
agricultural operations having been fixed by the rising of stars, and Egyptian records
tell us that the rising of Sirius was observed at the overflowing of the Nile; also
it has recently been found that both Egyptian and Greek temples were generally built
so that the rising of some star could be observed from their sanctuaries, and a coincidence
has been traced between the date of the great festival proper to each <span class="pageNum" id="pb147">[<a href="#pb147">147</a>]</span>temple and the time of the heliacal rising of the star towards which the axis of the
temple was originally directed. The Malays, at the beginning of this present century,
had a tradition that their seed-time had in old days been very well fixed by the rising
of the Pleiades, but that since they had become Mohammedans the festivals of their
religion and its calendar did not so well regulate their seed-time as was done in
old times. It has been found that means were provided by the ancient Egyptians for
observing the meridian transits of stars; and did we possess detailed and carefully
oriented plans of the temples of Chaldæa and Assyria, there is little doubt that we
should find that the meridian had been observed there also.
</p>
<p>Thus it is evident that the several means which were adopted at Zimbabwe for observing
the motions of the heavenly bodies were used in other countries also, and in all cases
they seem to have been used for regulating the time of celebration of religious festivals
as well as the ordinary affairs of life. Forms of nature worship analogous to that
practised at Zimbabwe seem often to have been accompanied in other countries by an
observation of the heavenly bodies. It is also worthy of note that the stars which
were observed at Zimbabwe seem all to have been northern ones, and the builders of
these temples probably acquired the habit of observing these stars in the northern
hemisphere. To this we shall refer again.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb148">[<a href="#pb148">148</a>]</span></p>
<p>What El Masoudi says of the temples of the Sabæans of Mesopotamia does not, of course,
directly apply to the temples at Zimbabwe; but in the plans of those temples one is
reminded of the multiform temples which he describes, and of the mysteries involved
in some of their architectural features which he could not fathom, for in these temples
of Mashonaland there are some curious evidences of design in plan. A glance at the
plan of the great temple suggests that the architects had carelessly drawn a great
ellipse on the ground and built round it, getting occasionally out of line and leaving
occasional doorways; but when one realises the wonderfully careful nature of the masonry,
and the great accuracy with which the comparatively rough stones have been laid in
regular courses, and been forced to combine to produce regular forms, and when a careful
plan of the whole building has been made, then it is seen that what were regarded
as careless irregularities in construction are, in reality, carefully constructed
architectural features, which doubtless had some religious significance to the worshippers,
but whose meaning remains a mystery to us.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p149width" id="p149"><img src="images/p149.png" alt="THE TWO TOWERS" width="493" height="461"><p class="figureHead">THE TWO TOWERS</p>
<p class="first"><span class="asc">A B</span> shows present top of tower, <span class="asc">C D</span> shows outline of walls as seen in illustration, <a href="#ch6">Chap. VI</a>. </p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The walls which are lightly shaded in the accompanying plans are much inferior in
construction to the more darkly shaded walls, for while the latter are built in most
regular courses, and the stones are most carefully packed in the whole thickness of
the walls, the former, though sometimes having the exterior courses laid with some
regularity, are most <span class="pageNum" id="pb149">[<a href="#pb149">149</a>]</span>carelessly built in their interior, and the stones seem to have been laid in anyhow,
and consequently there is a great difference in the durability of these walls; and
while it would almost be possible to drive a cart along the top of the better-built
part of the outer wall, one can only creep along the top of the worse-built portion
while risking a fall. Besides, the better-built and the worse-built portions of the
outer wall do not unite near the great doorway, and the foundation <span class="pageNum" id="pb150">[<a href="#pb150">150</a>]</span>of the well-built walls turns outward, as is shown in the plan. The worse-built walls
of all the temples do not show any of the peculiarities of design so characteristic
of the better walls, except in two instances, where they seem to be rough reconstructions
of older walls. We may, therefore, assume that these poorer walls are not of the original
period, and that they were built by a people who either did not practise solar worship
or who did not do so under the original forms. We will, therefore, disregard the poor
walls in studying the plans of the temples. It is much to be regretted that we could
recover no plan of the western side of the original outer wall, as <span class="pageNum" id="pb151">[<a href="#pb151">151</a>]</span>it might have made clear to us the meaning of many of the features of the eastern
wall.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p150width" id="p150"><img src="images/p150.png" alt="COIN OF BYBLOS SHOWING THE ROUND TOWER" width="381" height="381"><p class="figureHead">COIN OF BYBLOS SHOWING THE ROUND TOWER</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The most important feature in the interior of the temple is, of course, the great
tower, which is a marvel of workmanship in rough material, and in the truth of its
lines almost as wonderful as the column of a Greek temple. We could at first discover
no reason for its being built in its peculiar position. It has not been placed with
any reference to the points of the compass nor to the bearing of the sun at the equinoxes,
and its position is only indirectly connected with the position of the sun at the
solstices. But it is in the middle of the space marked off by the two inner doorways,
and the more easterly of these two doorways is at the point where the sun would appear
when rising at the summer solstice when regarded from the central altar, as will be
shown farther on; and the other doorway is at the point where the decoration on the
outer wall terminates, and that is at the part of the wall where the sun’s rays would
be tangential to its curve when rising at the same solstice. The portion of the outer
wall behind the above-mentioned sacred enclosure is built in the form of a circular
arc with its two extremities at <span class="asc">B</span> and <span class="asc">K</span>, and its centre at <span class="asc">P</span>, and the tower stands midway between these points. Close to the great tower is the
little one, and no reason for its position suggests itself; but the relative proportions
of the two towers are curious, and seem to offer an explanation of the plan of some
other parts of <span class="pageNum" id="pb152">[<a href="#pb152">152</a>]</span>the building—in fact, the diameter of the great tower seems to have represented the
unit of measure in the construction of the curves of the outer walls and of all the
regularly curved inner walls in the great temple, and in all the well-built temples
in Mashonaland. The diameter of the great tower at its base is 17·17 feet or 10 cubits,<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2747src" href="#xd31e2747">1</a> and this is exactly equal to the circumference of the little tower. This ratio of
circumference to diameter and the above measure of 10 cubits seem together to have
determined either the length of the radius or diameter, or halves of these, of all
the circular curves on which many of the walls are built. For instance, the radius
of the curve behind the great tower is 169⅓ feet, and this is equal to the diameter
of the great tower multiplied by the square of the ratio of circumference to diameter;
or 17·17 × 3·14<sup>2</sup> = 169·34. The well-built partly circular enclosure to the north-west of the tower
has a diameter of 54 feet, and this is equal to 17·17 × 3·14. The curve of the outer
wall, from the eastern end of the sacred enclosure (at <span class="asc">K</span>) to <span class="asc">A</span> is circular, and has its centre at the altar, and its radius is 107⅘ feet. This is
equal to twice 17·17 × 3·14. This length of 107⅘ feet is also the exact distance between
the middle points of the two doorways <span class="pageNum" id="pb155">[<a href="#pb155">155</a>]</span>at either end of the sacred enclosure. The curve of the outer wall from <span class="asc">A</span> to the great doorway seems to have a similar radius to the arc behind the tower,
namely, 169⅓ feet, but in our measurements there we hardly fixed a sufficient number
of points in the line of the wall to make quite certain of this. The inner long wall
is parallel to the outer one until it reaches the sacred enclosure, so it may be considered
as combined with the outer wall for our present purpose. Besides these there are no
well-built curved walls in the great temple, except the piece of wall near the monoliths
at <span class="asc">M</span>, and it is too short to allow of the centre of its curve being laid down with certainty
of accuracy. It does not, however, seem to belie this system of measurement.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p153width" id="p153"><img src="images/p153.png" alt="THE TRIPLE WALLS AT ZIMBABWE" width="720" height="533"><p class="figureHead">THE TRIPLE WALLS AT ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We need hardly expect to find the same measure always applying to the buildings on
the hill, for the form of these buildings is often controlled by the nature of the
ground. Still they do apply, and the diameter of the curve on which the wall of the
eastern temple is built is 84½ feet, which is equal to half of 17·17 × 3·14<sup>2</sup>. Of the two curved walls on the left hand when entering this temple from the south
the diameter of the curve of one is equal to 17·17 × 3·14, and the radius of the other
is 17·17 feet. The only other regularly curved wall on the hill is the western great
wall with monoliths and round towers, and the diameter of the circle of which the
curve of this wall forms a part is 254 feet, and this does not agree with our system
of measure. <span class="pageNum" id="pb156">[<a href="#pb156">156</a>]</span>But this wall and its towers are not well built, and there is good reason to suppose
that it is not the original wall, or that the outer portion of it is not original;
and, in fact, we discovered the foundation of part of another parallel wall, as is
partly shown in plan, six feet west of this wall. If this were the original wall,
it would give a diameter of 266 feet for the circle, which is half of 17·17 × 3·14<sup>3</sup>.
</p>
<p>At Matindela the only regularly curved piece of wall is that about the principal doorway,
but it is so rough in its construction that one hesitates to deal with it, and we
can only say that it seems to be built on a curve of 107⅘ feet radius = twice 17·17
× 3·14. The whole appearance of this wall and the slight inaccuracies in the orientation
of the decorations which it carries, suggest that it is a more recent wall built roughly
as a copy of an original wall on the same foundation.
</p>
<p>The ruin at the Lundi River is circular in form and well built, and its diameter is
fifty-four feet, which is equal to 17·17 × 3·14.
</p>
<p>Of course all the above measurements refer to the outside of the walls at the base,
as this is the way in which the tower itself was measured.
</p>
<p>The same principle of measurement applies to the curves which determine the shape
of the two towers themselves, and this explains why it is that the little tower tapers
much more rapidly towards the top than does the great one. If we describe a circular
curve with its centre on the same level as the base <span class="pageNum" id="pb157">[<a href="#pb157">157</a>]</span>of the great tower and its radius equal to twice 17·17 x 3·14 on 107⅘ feet, we find
that it exactly fits the outline of the great tower as it is shown in our photographs.
Also, a curve described in a similar way but with a radius equal to twice the diameter
of the little tower multiplied by 3·14 (5·45 × 3·14 × 2 = 34·34 feet) will correspond
to the outline of that tower.
</p>
<p>The towers when built were doubtless made complete in their mathematical form and
were carried up to a point as we see in a coin of Byblos, where we have a similar
tower represented with curved outlines. Their heights as determined by these curves
would be 42·3 and 13·5 feet respectively, and these numbers also bear the same relation
to each other that the circumference of a circle does to its diameter.
</p>
<p>We have no explanation to give of the position of the little tower relatively to the
great one, but there probably was some meaning in it which might appear had we a plan
of the original walls around the towers. It is very doubtful that these walls, which
now mark off the sacred enclosure, are of the same period as the towers. They are
shaded darkly in our plan because they are fairly well built; but although they are
better built than most of the secondary walls, yet they are not equal in point of
execution to the great outer wall and the towers, and their lines, too, are not so
regular as those of the original walls generally are. It seems probable that they
are rough copies of some old walls which had fallen, and are wanting in some <span class="pageNum" id="pb158">[<a href="#pb158">158</a>]</span>of the essential features of their originals. We can only say that the centre of one
tower is distant 17·17 feet from the centre of the other, within a limit of error
of two inches.
</p>
<p>The angular height of both the towers measured from the centres of the curves which
determine their forms is the same—namely 23° 1′.
</p>
<p>None of the angular values of the arcs seem to have been of any special significance,
except perhaps the angle at the altar in the great temple, which is subtended by the
arc <span class="asc">AK</span>. The value of this angle is about 57°, and is equal to our modern unit of the circular
measure of an angle, which is the angle at the centre of any circle that is subtended
by an arc equal to the radius. It is hardly likely that it can have had this meaning
to the builders of the temple, and the probable cause of the coincidence is that at
<span class="asc">A</span> they meant to halve the angular distance between <span class="asc">K</span> and the doorway. Besides, the sun’s rays, when it rises at the summer solstice, do
not fall directly on the part of the wall beyond <span class="asc">A</span>, and this probably had some connection with their reason for changing the radius
of the arc at this point.
</p>
<p>There is no evidence that any of the trigonometrical functions were known to the builders
of Zimbabwe; not even the chord, which was probably the earliest recognised function
of an angle, for the chords of the various arcs bear no simple relation to each other.
The only interesting mathematical fact which seems to have been embodied in the architecture
<span class="pageNum" id="pb159">[<a href="#pb159">159</a>]</span>of the temples is the ratio of diameter to circumference, and it may have had an occult
significance in the peculiar form of nature worship which was practised there. We
do not suppose that it was intended to symbolise anything of an astronomical nature,
and it is extremely improbable that the builders of Zimbabwe had any notion of mathematical
astronomy, for their astronomy was purely empirical, and amounted merely to an observation
of the more obvious motions of the heavenly bodies. When the minds of men were first
interested in geometry it would at once occur to them that there must be some constant
ratio between the circumference of a circle and its diameter, and they would easily
discover what this ratio was, and they may have considered this discovery so important
and significant that they desired to express it in their architecture. Analogous instances
of an embodiment of simple mathematical principles in architectural forms will occur
to every one.
</p>
<p>The centres of the arcs seem generally to have been important points, and altars were
sometimes erected at them from which the culminations or meridian transits of stars
could be observed, and on which sacrifices were probably offered to the sun when it
was rising or setting at either of the solstices.
</p>
<p>Around the outside of the wall of the great temple, between the points marked <span class="asc">A</span> and <span class="asc">B</span> on plan, there extend two bands of a kind of chevron pattern, formed, as will be
seen from the illustrations, by placing stones on their edges. This pattern seems
to have been <span class="pageNum" id="pb160">[<a href="#pb160">160</a>]</span>symbolical of fertility, and it extends along the part of the wall which receives
directly the rays of the sun when rising at the summer solstice. It reminds one of
the Egyptian hieroglyphic symbol for water, and of how naturally the idea of water
would be associated with fertility in the mind of a solar worshipper. It also resembles
the symbol for the zodiacal sign of Aquarius, and we might suppose that the temple
was built when the sun was in this sign of the zodiac at the summer solstice, did
such a supposition not carry us back to too remote a period. Besides, the sun is generally
believed to have been in Capricornus at the December solstice at the period at which
the zodiac was invented, and when its signs received their names.
</p>
<p>One hundred and seven and four-fifths feet from <span class="asc">A</span> and the same distance from <span class="asc">K</span> and from <span class="asc">B</span> is the centre of the arc <span class="asc">AK</span>, and at this point is some ruined masonry which seems once to have formed an altar.
Zimbabwe is in South latitude 20° 16′ 30″, and consequently the sun, when rising there
at the summer solstice, would bear East 25° South were the horizon level. But Mount
Varoma interposes itself between the temple and the rising sun at this time, so that
the sun attains an altitude of 5° before its rays reach the temple. Then its amplitude
will be more nearly 24°, and a line produced in this direction from the altar will
pass across the doorway of the sacred enclosure, where the curve of the wall changes
its radius, and, roughly speaking, through the middle <span class="pageNum" id="pb161">[<a href="#pb161">161</a>]</span>of the chevron pattern. The same line drawn in an opposite direction for seventy-three
feet would fall on a tall monolith which we there found lying by its well-built foundation.
Where the pattern ends at <span class="asc">A</span> and <span class="asc">B</span> the rays of the sun are nearly tangential to the wall, so that all parts of the wall,
and those parts only, which receive the direct rays of the sun when rising at the
summer solstice are decorated by this symbolical pattern.
</p>
<p>The sun’s rays would not fall on the altar at this time, and it seems strange to have
an altar devoted to solar worship under the shadow of a wall; but the same objection
would apply to every part of the interior of the temple, and we can hardly suppose
that the priests at Zimbabwe performed their ceremonies of worship outside of the
temple, as some tribes of Arabs do with some stone circles at the present day, neither
is there any sign of such ceremonies having been performed on the top of the broad
wall. The monolith, seventy-three feet from the altar, was sufficiently tall to receive
the rays of the sun when it rose over Mount Varoma, and the shadow of a monolith erected
on the wall at <span class="asc">K</span> would fall on it at the same time, thus marking with great accuracy the occurrence
of the solstice. Monoliths had been erected at intervals along the decorated part,
and only on this part, of the wall, and these may have served to indicate other periods
of the year in a similar way.
</p>
<p>Near the top of the great tower, which at present <span class="pageNum" id="pb162">[<a href="#pb162">162</a>]</span>stands thirty-two feet high, there is a dentelle pattern, which may be described as
a chevron pattern laid on its side, and which resembles a common Egyptian pattern.
This extends partly round the tower, but it is impossible to determine its aspect
with accuracy as so much of it has fallen away. It seems, however, to have faced the
setting sun at the winter solstice.
</p>
<p>At the temple at the east end of the fortress on the hill similar means are provided
for observing the summer solstice. Only a small part of the decorated wall remains,
the middle part, which was of great height, having fallen, so that we do not know
how far the decoration may have extended towards the south. On the other side it terminates
at the doorway, which is placed close to the high cliff which forms the northern side
of the temple. We discovered the altar, with several phalli and many little terracotta
images of the solar disc lying near it, and some among the stones of the altar. This
altar is not at the centre of the arc, but is placed ten feet nearer the rising sun
at the solstice, and its position seems to be due to the position of the break in
the cliff, which is true north of the altar, so that the meridian can be observed
through this passage from the altar in its actual position, and it could not have
been observed from the altar were it placed at the centre of the arc. It was impossible
to describe the arc with the altar as its centre owing to the position of some rocks
which would have interfered with the building of the wall. At the summer solstice
the sun <span class="pageNum" id="pb163">[<a href="#pb163">163</a>]</span>rises here on a level horizon and bears East 25° South, and a line drawn from the
altar in this direction passes through the pattern, and continued for ten feet in
the opposite direction it would fall on the centre of the arc.
</p>
<p>The great curved wall at the western end of the fortress, which is surmounted by little
round towers and erect monoliths, faces the setting sun at the winter solstice. If
we suppose the altar was placed here, we have on an eminence marked A, fifty feet
true north of the altar, a tall monolith which would enable the meridian transits
of northern stars to be observed from the altar, and a line drawn from this altar
towards the setting sun at the winter solstice would seem to have passed through the
middle of the line of towers and monoliths. This great wall is not so well built as
the walls at the eastern temple, and it seems probable that it is a restoration of
an old wall which was originally parallel to this, and whose foundations we discovered
as already mentioned. Possibly on the original wall the round towers and monoliths
were aligned between the altar and the setting sun at certain definite periods of
the year. At present they do not seem to mark any important periods, but the position
of the setting sun at the summer solstice is well marked by a round tower on the wall
overhanging the high cliff, and this is undoubtedly a wall of the best period.
</p>
<p>At this western end of the fortress we have two instances of parts of walls which
faced the setting <span class="pageNum" id="pb164">[<a href="#pb164">164</a>]</span>sun at the winter solstice being decorated by a dentelle pattern.
</p>
<p>The disposition of the ornamental patterns on the little round ruin at the Lundi River
is interesting. It faces the rising sun at the winter solstice, but the place had
been inhabited by Kaffirs, and all vestige of an altar, if it ever existed, had been
destroyed. The nature of the patterns here is different from that of those at Zimbabwe.
The one near the top of the wall is composed of two rows of little squares alternating
with blank spaces, and a little way below this are two rows of a herring-bone pattern.
There is a curious rounded protuberance on the outside of the wall, and the herring-bone
pattern stops at this point, but the other extends right round to the south-eastern
doorway.
</p>
<p>This temple is similar in many ways to the partly circular one north-west of the great
tower at Zimbabwe. They have both the same diameter and they each have two doorways
which are in somewhat similar positions, although the temple at the Lundi is oriented
towards the rising sun at the winter solstice, and the other, if it ever had a pattern,
would have had it facing the setting sun at this solstice.
</p>
<p>The dentelle pattern on the great tower seems to have been oriented towards the setting
sun at the winter solstice, and the centre of the partly circular temple at G is roughly
in a line between the centre of the tower and the sun at this time. When the sun is
rising at the summer solstice G will be behind the <span class="pageNum" id="pb165">[<a href="#pb165">165</a>]</span>tower and in the middle of its shadow, in a position analogous to that of the altar
behind the arc <span class="asc">AK</span>. The direction of the wall at the north-eastern extremity of the arc of which <span class="asc">G</span> is the centre is towards the rising sun at the winter solstice, and its inner side
points past the centre of the arc <span class="asc">AK</span><a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2881src" href="#xd31e2881">2</a> towards the point of the outer wall which is in a straight line between the altar
and the sun when it rises at this solstice. The wall at the other extremity of the
arc points to the rising sun at the other solstice.
</p>
<p>It is perhaps worthy of remark that the centre of the great tower is distant the length
of its own height (42·3 feet) from the solstitial line <span class="asc">MK</span>, while the centre of the little tower would be the same distance from a parallel
solstitial line drawn from the south-eastern extremity of the arc of which <span class="asc">G</span> is the centre; and also that the centres of the great tower and the centres of the
arcs <span class="asc">AK</span> and <span class="asc">KB</span> lie in one straight line.
</p>
<p>At Matindela the general aspect of the decorated part of the building is towards the
setting sun, but the masonry is so rough in its construction that we need expect little
accuracy in orientation. The whole appearance of the place suggests that what exists
at present is merely a rough rebuilding of an older structure. What remains of the
internal arrangements of the building is very fragmentary, and we could find no trace
of an altar. Over the doorway there is a herring-bone pattern facing the setting sun
at the summer solstice, and adjoining this on its north <span class="pageNum" id="pb166">[<a href="#pb166">166</a>]</span>side there is a band of ornament of the dentelle kind with a similar aspect. Above
this dentelle pattern there is a loophole in the wall which may have served to pass
a ray of light from the setting sun to an altar at some festival. Farther along the
wall there is another pattern facing the setting sun at the winter solstice, and on
the inside of the wall yet another looking towards the rising sun at the summer solstice.
The construction of the doorways at Matindela is remarkable. They have been originally
made of considerable width, and then been narrowed very much by square masses of masonry
which were built at both sides. The direction of the doorways also seems to have some
meaning, for three of them look East 25° North, and four East 25° South, thus corresponding
to the direction of the sun rising and setting at the solstices.
</p>
<p>At the Mazoe Valley, and to the north-east of Matindela, near Mount Chiburwe, there
are well-built ruins of the best period of this style of architecture, but, unfortunately,
too little of them remains to allow us to understand their plans. They are both very
small, and are not circular, like the Lundi River ruin, but their walls seem to have
been built on a series of curves like the wall of the great temple. A very extraordinary
thing regarding all the older ruins in Mashonaland is the way in which the stones
which once composed the walls have disappeared. They have not been covered up by soil,
and there is no trace of them in the surrounding country, and yet in <span class="pageNum" id="pb167">[<a href="#pb167">167</a>]</span>these two ruins not one-twentieth part of the stones remain, and all that do remain
are in their original places in the walls.
</p>
<p>When the western wall was rebuilt at the great temple at Zimbabwe there was apparently
a want of stones, and the rebuilders were too lazy to procure more, so they probably
shortened the wall by decreasing the size of the temple, and also economised stones
by making the new wall much less thick.
</p>
<p>The place marked <span class="asc">A</span> near the western end of Zimbabwe Hill is remarkable. It is a natural eminence, the
height of which has been increased by building. To the south of it is a great mass
of masonry which is pierced by several roofed passages, and over which a winding stairway
leads from the eastern buildings to the eminence, while a similar staircase leads
from the eminence towards the buildings lying northward. To the eastward of the eminence
tower great granite boulders, the termination at this end of that line of boulders
which caps the hill along its whole length, and which protects the fortress on the
north side. At the highest point of the eminence is erected the great monolith before
referred to, which seems to have marked the meridian for the altar at <span class="asc">R</span>. Close to this monolith stood another made of soapstone. We found its base in its
place, and its other fragments, shown in the illustration, were all discovered near.
This monolith was decorated with bands of the chevron pattern running halfway round,
with images of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb168">[<a href="#pb168">168</a>]</span>sun and other geometrical patterns placed between the bands. It seems probable that
it served as a gnomon, and that means had been provided for measuring the length of
its shadow at midday. The foundation of the monolith is twenty-five feet higher than
the site of the altar, and the monolith itself was ten feet long, so that we have
a total height for its summit of thirty-five feet above the base of the altar, and
it stood fifty feet true north of the altar. At Zimbabwe the altitude of the upper
limb of the sun at midday, at the winter solstice, is about 46½°, so that the top
of the monolith would then throw its shadow in the direction of the altar, and to
within about seventeen feet of its centre. Probably some arrangement had been made
near the altar for observing the length of its shadow; and were the shadow received
on an inclined plane or staircase, as seems to have been done with the dial of Ahaz,
mentioned in the Old Testament, it might be lengthened to any extent and its variations
in length increased in magnitude; and so the change in declination of the sun could
be observed with considerable accuracy. The sun is little more than three degrees
south of Zimbabwe at midsummer, and it would be difficult to measure with accuracy
the short shadows then cast, and we do not find anything to show that they had been
observed, and the means provided in the two other temples for observing the position
of the sun on the horizon would be much more effectual for fixing this solstice.
</p>
<p>The positions of the doorways relatively to the <span class="pageNum" id="pb169">[<a href="#pb169">169</a>]</span>altars or the centres of the arcs is of interest; and we find that every important
doorway in walls of the original period, with the exception of the south-eastern doorway
in the temple at the Lundi, and the south-western one in the partly circular interior
temple at Zimbabwe, is placed true north of the centre of an arc or of an altar, and
the centre of every arc has had a doorway or some other means of marking out the meridian
placed north of it. True north of the centre of the tower itself we have a doorway
in the wall of the sacred enclosure, and although the wall in which this doorway is
made was probably not built at the original period, yet there probably was a doorway
in a similar position in the wall which it has replaced. The part of the great outer
wall north of the tower seems also to have been marked, for about this point we found
a great step constructed on its top about five feet high.
</p>
<p>Above the temple at the east end of the fortress on the hill, a cliff rises perpendicularly
for fifty feet, and poised on its top there stands a most remarkable great rock which
may once have been an object of veneration to the worshippers in the temple beneath
it. It forms one of the highest points on the hill. A line drawn true south from this
rock and produced 680 yards would pass through the doorway in the great temple and
fall on the altar in the centre of the decorated arc. Until this line suggested itself
we were puzzled to account for the peculiar character of the doorway. It passes through
a wall sixteen <span class="pageNum" id="pb170">[<a href="#pb170">170</a>]</span>feet thick, and is itself only three feet wide, and it does not pass through the wall
at right angles, but cuts it somewhat obliquely, so that its axis is roughly parallel
to the meridian line.
</p>
<p>A line drawn true north from the centre of the arc at <span class="asc">G</span> will pass through the doorway of the small temple and the centre of the arc <span class="asc">KB</span> at <span class="asc">P</span>. This line points through the outer wall where the gap occurs, and it is probable
that the opening which was made in the outer wall to allow of observation along this
line, determined its fall at this point. This meridian line is thirty-six feet distant
from the other from the centre of the arc <span class="asc">AK</span>, and it must have pointed to the same great stone. But if both these lines point
to the middle of this stone, which is 680 yards distant, they will incline towards
each other about one degree, and the time of the transit of a star over the stone
observed by one line will differ four minutes from that observed by the other. This
inaccuracy would be so obvious to the observers that we cannot suppose they would
have worked in this way. The great stone measures nearly, if not quite, thirty-two
feet across, and were the lines directed, not both to its centre, but one to either
side, they would be parallel to each other and would both give the same time for a
transit of a star. This would imply that stars were observed, not passing over the
stone, but disappearing and reappearing behind it, and a star observed at the altar
to disappear would at the same instant reappear to an observer at G and <span class="pageNum" id="pb173">[<a href="#pb173">173</a>]</span>P; or if the rock were less than thirty-two feet wide the star would reappear at G
and P before it disappeared at the altar. We have thus a sort of double observation
of the same meridian transit.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p171width" id="p171"><img src="images/p171.png" alt="WITHIN THE DOUBLE WALLS. ZIMBABWE" width="413" height="720"><p class="figureHead">WITHIN THE DOUBLE WALLS. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>If we admit that these meridian lines were used for the observation of stars in this
way, and if we can determine what star or stars were observed, the time that has elapsed
since they were observed admits of calculation. The apparent altitude of the middle
of the stone as seen from the centres of the arcs is 7½°, and the latitude of Zimbabwe
is 20° 16′ 30″, so that we want stars having a north polar distance of about 28°.
Owing to the changing direction of the pole of the earth, which produces the phenomenon
of the precession of the equinoxes, the declinations and right ascensions of all the
stars are undergoing a slow but regular change; but there are no stars of the first
magnitude which have had approximately this polar distance since any probable date
of the foundation of Zimbabwe. Of stars of the second magnitude there are four, and
of the third magnitude many more, which may have been used, and they would all serve
for widely different periods. In order to enable us to select the proper star from
this number we must have its right ascension, and this we may yet hope to get when
we have the date of some important yearly festival at Zimbabwe, and the hour at which
the star would be wanted on the meridian on the night of this festival.
</p>
<p>There are two other places where the meridian <span class="pageNum" id="pb174">[<a href="#pb174">174</a>]</span>transits of stars have been watched at Zimbabwe, and in these cases it is still the
same portion of the heavens which has been observed. The altar in the eastern temple
in the fortress has been placed ten feet E.S.E. of the centre of the arc, in order
to permit of the meridian being observed through the gap in the rock which formed
the northern doorway. Here the line laid off is much shorter than that between the
rock and the great temple, but still fairly accurate observations could be made. To
the north of the centre of the arc of the great wall of the western temple there is,
as we have already shown, a great monolith erected, and at one side of this the stars
might be observed at their culminations. As seen from the altar this monolith would
mark out an angular distance of 9° of the meridian.
</p>
<p>It is remarkable that only stars of the northern hemisphere seem to have been observed
at Zimbabwe, for in the great temple itself the culminations of southern stars could
quite as easily have been observed as those of northern ones, and in the fortress
all view of the northern sky is almost completely shut off by the cliffs and huge
boulders which form its northern line of defence; yet every point from which northern
stars could have been observed has been used for this purpose, and there is no temple
there from which northern stars were not observed, while at the same time the openly
displayed southern sky has been left unregarded. This, of course, points to a northern
origin for the people, and suggests that before they <span class="pageNum" id="pb175">[<a href="#pb175">175</a>]</span>came to Zimbabwe they had acquired the habit of observing certain stars—a habit so
strong that it led them to disregard the use of the southern constellations, though
they must have known that they would equally well have served to regulate their calendar;
it even seems to indicate that they attached ideas of veneration to certain stars,
and rendered them worship. It seems a plausible supposition that while the great temple
itself was devoted to solar and analogous forms of worship, the little circular, or
partly circular, temples within its walls, of which we found one fairly well preserved
and fragmentary remains of several others, were dedicated to the cult of particular
stars.
</p>
<p>There is no sign in the temples of any observation of anything external to the temples
themselves, unless of the heavenly bodies; and no features of the surrounding country,
such as prominent mountain-peaks or great isolated rocks, of which there are many
striking instances near the temples, have had any regard at all paid to them. The
outer walls, with the exception of the decoration towards the solstices, are featureless
and blank, and the doorways, where one might expect ornament, are extremely narrow
and entirely plain. When one is within the great temple one realises how fitting a
place it is in which to observe the starry sky, for the high walls around exclude
all view of the landscape, and the only objects which attract one’s attention are
the heavenly bodies above one; and at night-time one feels how easily the <span class="pageNum" id="pb176">[<a href="#pb176">176</a>]</span>thoughts of a star-worshipper could be concentrated on their proper object.
</p>
<p>It is incredible that such a style of architecture as we have described, and such
a civilisation as it signifies, could have originated and developed in South Africa,
for such a development would have required a very long time, and would have implied
at least a long and peaceful settlement in the country; and although the builders
of Zimbabwe may have long possessed the place, yet it is apparent that they never
considered the country was their own. This is clear from the nature of their defences
and the strength of their fortifications. Had they lived long enough in the land to
alter or develop any of their arts independently of their mother country, they would
have left a deeper mark on their surroundings than they have; besides, living as they
must have lived, they could not have increased in civilisation, nor developed any
of its arts, and we may assume that they had their architecture as well as their religion
in common with their mother country. The balance of probabilities seems to be in favour
of that country being South Arabia; and when it and Abyssinia, with which it was so
long associated, are better known, we may find temples which are built of similar
small stones and with similar mathematical and other peculiarities in their construction.
Our information of these countries is meagre, but some of those buildings which are
known in Yemen, which seem to combine temple and fortress in one, as on Zimbabwe Hill,
<span class="pageNum" id="pb177">[<a href="#pb177">177</a>]</span>may have been built by the same race that constructed Zimbabwe; and the elliptic temples
at Marib and Sirwah, and the one at Nakab al Hajar, with its north and south doorways
seeming to indicate an observation of the meridian, may embody some of the mathematical
principles illustrated by the ruins of Mashonaland.
</p>
<p>When the original builders of Zimbabwe have been traced to their home, it will remain
to discover who were their successors in Mashonaland that rebuilt the western wall
of the great temple and some portions of other buildings, for this certainly was not
done by any of the present negro races.
</p>
<p>There is nothing to show that even these walls do not belong to a now far distant
time; for although they would not long remain in this country, yet at Zimbabwe they
might endure for an indefinite period, for there, in a clear atmosphere free from
dust, and a tropical climate with its yearly torrential rains, no soil can accumulate
among the stones to support vegetation which would destroy the walls. The few small
plants which grow even on the oldest walls are of species which do not require much
mineral matter for their growth, and whose roots are so soft that they mould themselves
to the shape of the interstices in the walls, but do not press asunder the stones.
Besides, the present inhabitants of the country do not use stone in any of their constructions,
and never trouble themselves to remove stones from any existing walls, so that more
stones have probably been disturbed <span class="pageNum" id="pb178">[<a href="#pb178">178</a>]</span>during the two years of British occupation of the country than the Kaffirs would disturb
in as many centuries; and under the old conditions the walls might endure for an indefinite
time.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2968src" href="#xd31e2968">3</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb179">[<a href="#pb179">179</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2747">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2747src">1</a></span> 17·17 feet is equal to 10 cubits of 20·62 inches; and as all parts of the building
which we have been able to measure accurately, and all small articles which would
probably be made on any scale of measure, apparently have been made in terms of a
cubit of this length, it seems probable that this cubit was one of the standards of
measure in use.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2747src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2881">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2881src">2</a></span> This is not very accurately shown in the small scale plan.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2881src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2968">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2968src">3</a></span> There are many astronomical points in these buildings still to be considered, and
the results of further investigation will be published later.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2968src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch6" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e433">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER VI</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p180width" id="p180"><img src="images/p180.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL" width="207" height="497"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>In this chapter I propose to discuss all the objects discovered during our excavations
in the ruins as apart from the buildings themselves, and to analyse the light that
they throw on the original constructors and their cult. All these objects were found,
with a few minor exceptions, in the eastern temple on the fortress<span class="corr" id="xd31e2984" title="Not in source">.</span> As I have said, traces of a recent Kaffir habitation will account for the absence
of objects in the lower buildings, but the upper ruin, sheltered from the sun and
hidden by trees and lofty boulders, was a spot repugnant to the warmth-loving Kaffir,
and to this fact we owe the preservation of so many objects of interest belonging
to the ancient inhabitants. The most remarkable feature in connection with the finds
is that everything of a decorative nature is made of a steatitic schist or soapstone.
This stone is found in the country, and is still employed by natives farther south
in making pipes for smoking dokha or hemp; it lends itself easily to the tool of the
artist, and is very durable.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb180">[<a href="#pb180">180</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p181width" id="p181"><img src="images/p181.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS. ZIMBABWE" width="720" height="389"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p183width" id="p183"><img src="images/p183.jpg" alt="FRONT AND BACK OF A BROKEN SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL" width="414" height="409"><p class="figureHead">FRONT AND BACK OF A BROKEN SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>First, let us take the birds perched on tall soapstone columns, which, from the position
in which we found most of them, would appear to have decorated the outer wall of the
semicircular temple on the hill. These birds are all conventional in design. The tallest
stood 5 feet 4 inches in height, the smallest about half a foot lower. We have six
large ones and two small ones in all, and probably, from the number of soapstone pedestals
with the tops broken off which we found in the temple, there were several more. Though
they are all different in execution, they would appear to have been intended to represent
the same bird; from the only one in which the beak<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e2997src" href="#xd31e2997">1</a> is preserved to us intact, we undoubtedly recognise that they must have been intended
to represent hawks or vultures. The thick neck and legs, the long talons and the nature
of the plumage point more distinctly to the vulture; the decorations on some of them,
namely, the dentelle pattern at the edge of the wings, the necklace with a brooch
in front and continued <span class="pageNum" id="pb183">[<a href="#pb183">183</a>]</span>down the back, the raised rosette-shaped eyes, and the pattern down the back, point
to a high degree of conventionality, evolved out of some sacred symbolism of which
these birds were the embodiment, the nature of which symbolism it is now our object
to arrive at. Two of the birds, similar in character, with straight legs and fan-shaped
tails different from the others, are represented as perched on zones or cesti; two
others have only indications of the cestus beneath their feet; a fifth, with nothing
beneath its feet, has two circles carved under it and two on the wings<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3006src" href="#xd31e3006">2</a>; a sixth is perched on a chevron pattern <span class="pageNum" id="pb184">[<a href="#pb184">184</a>]</span>similar to that which decorates the large circular temple; hence there is a sort of
similarity of symbolism connecting them all.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p184width" id="p184"><img src="images/p184.jpg" alt="BIRD ON PEDESTAL" width="351" height="513"><p class="figureHead">BIRD ON PEDESTAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We have now to look around for comparisons by which we may hope to identify the origin
of our birds, and I have little doubt in stating that they are closely akin to the
Assyrian Astarte or Venus, and represent the female element in creation. Similar <span class="pageNum" id="pb185">[<a href="#pb185">185</a>]</span>birds were sacred to Astarte amongst the Phœnicians and are often represented as perched
on her shrines.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p185width" id="p185"><img src="images/p185.png" alt="BIRD ON PEDESTAL FROM THE ZODIAC OF DENDERAH" width="84" height="304"><p class="figureHead">BIRD ON PEDESTAL FROM THE ZODIAC OF DENDERAH</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Of the maternal aspect in which the ancient Egyptians held the vulture we have ample
evidence. Horapollo tells us (I. 11) that the vulture was emblematic of ‘Urania, a
year, a mother,’ whilst Ælian goes so far as to suppose that all vultures were females,
to account for their character as emblems of maternity. The cesti and the circles
point obviously to this, and these birds in connection with phallic worship are interesting
as emblems, signifying incubation. Let us now consult Lucian, who in his work ‘De
Syriâ Deâ’ describes a temple at Hierapolis, near the Euphrates, which, as we have
seen, has much in common with these temples at Zimbabwe. In § 33, p. 479, he mentions
a curious pediment, of no distinctive shape, called by the Assyrians ‘the symbol,’
on the top of which is perched a bird. Amongst some of Dr. Schliemann’s discoveries
at Mycene, there are also images surmounted by birds which differ from the <span class="trans" title="xoanon"><span lang="grc" class="grek">ξόανον</span></span> in the ‘De Syriâ Deâ’ solely in the fact that they are not shapeless, but represent
a nude female figure. The goddess of this shrine was evidently Astarte, and wore a
cestus, ‘with which none but Urania is adorned.’<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3037src" href="#xd31e3037">3</a> <span class="pageNum" id="pb186">[<a href="#pb186">186</a>]</span>On a Phœnician coin found in Cyprus we have the dove on the betyle or pedestal as
the central object.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3045src" href="#xd31e3045">4</a> In Egyptian archæology we also come across the bird on the pedestal, more particularly
in the curious zodiac of Denderah, where a bird perched on a pillar, and with the
crown of Upper Egypt on its head, is, as Mr. Norman Lockyer tells me, used to indicate
the commencement of the year; also from the Soudan we have a bird on a pedestal carved
on some rude stone fragments now in the Ashmolean Museum. It is just possible that
the birds at Zimbabwe had some solstitial meaning, but as their exact position on
the temple walls is lost, it is impossible to speak on this point with anything like
certainty. Also in the difficult question of early Arabian cult, which was closely
bound up with that of Egypt, Assyria, and Phœnicia, we find the vulture as the <i>totem</i> of a Southern Arabian tribe at the time of the Himyaritic supremacy, and it was worshipped
there as the god Nasr, and is mysteriously alluded to in Himyaritic inscriptions as
‘the vulture of the East and the vulture of the West,’ which also would seem to point
to a solstitial use of the emblem.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3054src" href="#xd31e3054">5</a>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p187width" id="p187"><img src="images/p187.jpg" alt="MINIATURE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS" width="517" height="513"><p class="figureHead">MINIATURE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The religious symbolism of these birds is further attested by our finding two tiny
representations of the larger emblems; they, too, represented birds on pillars, the
longest of which is only three and a half inches, and it is perched on the pillar
more as the <span class="pageNum" id="pb187">[<a href="#pb187">187</a>]</span>bird is represented in the zodiac of Denderah. Evidently these things were used as
amulets or votive offerings in the temple. Lucian alludes to the phalli used as amulets
by the Greeks with a human figure on the end, and he connects them with the tower
thirty cubits in height.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="table" id="p188">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p188-1width"><img src="images/p188-1.png" alt="PHŒNICIAN COLUMN IN THE LOUVRE" width="92" height="469"><p class="figureHead">PHŒNICIAN COLUMN IN THE LOUVRE</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p188-2width"><img src="images/p188-2.jpg" alt="ORNATE PHALLUS, ZIMBABWE" width="93" height="332"><p class="figureHead">ORNATE PHALLUS, ZIMBABWE</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>In the centre of the temple on the hill stood an altar, into the stones of which were
inserted and also <span class="pageNum" id="pb188">[<a href="#pb188">188</a>]</span>scattered around a large number of soapstone objects representing the phallus either
realistically or conventionally, but always with anatomical accuracy which unmistakably
conveys their meaning, and proves in addition that circumcision was practised by this
primitive race; ‘its origin both amongst the Egyptians and Ethiopians,’ says Herodotus,
ii. 37, 104, ‘may be traced to the most remote antiquity.’ We have seen in the previous
description of the tower the parallel to Lucian’s description of the phalli in the
temple at Hierapolis. Here, in the upper temple, we found no less than thirty-eight
miniature representations of the larger emblem; one is a highly ornate object, with
apparently a representation of a winged sun on its side, or perchance the winged Egyptian
vulture, suggesting a distinct Semitic influence. There is a small marble column in
the Louvre, twenty-six inches in height, of Phœnician origin, with a winged symbol
on the shaft like the one <span class="pageNum" id="pb189">[<a href="#pb189">189</a>]</span>before us; it is crowned by an ornament made of four petalled flowers. This winged
globe is met with in many Phœnician objects, and MM. Perrot and Chipiez, in their
work on Phœnicia, thus speak of it as ‘a sort of trade-mark by which we can recognise
as Phœnician all such objects as bear it, whether they come from Etruria or Sardinia,
from Africa or Syria.’ And of the stele in the Louvre the same authors say, ‘We may
say that it is signed.’ A carefully executed rosette with seven petals forms the summit
of our object found in the temple. Now the rosette is also another distinctly Phœnician
symbol used by them to indicate the sun. We have the rosette on Phœnician sepulchral
stelæ in the British Museum in conjunction with the half-moon to indicate the heavenly
luminaries, and here at Zimbabwe we have this object surmounted by a rosette, rosettes
carved on the decorated pillars, and the eyes of the birds, as before mentioned, are
made in the form of rosettes. The fact of finding these objects all in close juxtaposition
around the altar and in the vicinity of the birds on pillars is sufficient proof of
the nature of the objects and their religious symbolism. Thus we have in both cases
the larger emblems and their miniature representatives, the tower and the smaller
phalli, the large birds and the tiny amulets, proving to us that the ancient inhabitants
of the ruins worshipped a combination of the two deities, which together represented
the creative powers of mankind.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p190width" id="p190"><img src="images/p190.jpg" alt="LONG DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAM IN TWO PIECES" width="251" height="720"><p class="figureHead">LONG DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAM IN TWO PIECES</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>A curious confirmation of this is found in the <span class="pageNum" id="pb190">[<a href="#pb190">190</a>]</span>pages of Herodotus, who tells us<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3095src" href="#xd31e3095">6</a>: ‘The Arabians of all the gods only worshipped Dionysus, whom they called Ourotalt,
and Urania;’ that is to say, they worshipped the two deities which, in the mind of
the father of history, represented in themselves all that was known of the mysteries
of creation, pointing to the very earliest period of Arabian cult, prior to the more
refined religious development of the Sabæo-Himyaritic dynasty, when Sun-worship, veneration
for the great luminary which regenerated all animal and vegetable life, superseded
the grosser forms of nature-worship, to be itself somewhat superseded or rather incorporated
in a worship of all the heavenly luminaries, <span class="pageNum" id="pb191">[<a href="#pb191">191</a>]</span>which developed as a knowledge of astronomy was acquired.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p191width" id="p191"><img src="images/p191.jpg" alt="DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAM" width="287" height="547"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAM</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p192width"><img src="images/p192.jpg" alt="DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAMS" width="340" height="542"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAMS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p193width" id="p193"><img src="images/p193.jpg" alt="COLLECTION OF STRANGE STONES" width="444" height="537"><p class="figureHead">COLLECTION OF STRANGE STONES</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We have already discussed the round towers and the numerous monoliths which decorated
the walls and other parts of the Zimbabwe ruins; excavation yielded further examples
of the veneration for stones amongst the early inhabitants. One of these was a tall
decorated soapstone pillar 11 feet 6 inches in height, which stood on the platform
already alluded to, and acted as a centre to a group of monoliths; the base of this
pillar we found <i lang="la">in situ</i>, the rest had been broken off and appropriated by a Kaffir to decorate a wall; it
was worked with bands of geometric patterns around it, each different from the other
and divided into compartments by circular patterns, one of which is the chevron pattern
found on the circular <span class="pageNum" id="pb192">[<a href="#pb192">192</a>]</span>ruin below; it only runs round a portion of the pillar; and may possibly have been
used to orient it towards the setting sun. Besides this tall pillar we found two fragments
of other similar pillars decorated one with geometric patterns and the other with
an extraordinary and entirely inexplicable decoration. On these pillars the rosette
is frequently depicted, and it <span class="pageNum" id="pb193">[<a href="#pb193">193</a>]</span>would seem that they all came from the same place, namely, the platform decorated
with monoliths. Here also we found several stones of a curious nature and entirely
foreign to the place. Two of them are stones with even bands of an asbestiform substance,
a serpentine with veins of chrysolite, the grooves being caused by the natural erosion
of the fibrous <span class="pageNum" id="pb194">[<a href="#pb194">194</a>]</span>bands. Another stone is an irregular polygonal pillar-like object of coarse-grained
basalt, the smooth faces of which are natural points, the whole being a portion of
a rough column or prism. Another, again, is a fragment of schistose rock, apparently
hornblendic; also we found several round blocks of diorite in this place. The collection
here of so many strange geological fragments cannot be accidental, and points to a
veneration of curious-shaped stones amongst the earlier inhabitants of the ruins,
which were collected here on the platform, a spot which, I am convinced, will compare
with the <span class="trans" title="baitylia"><span lang="grc" class="grek">βαιτύλια</span></span> or betyles of the Phœnicians, and of this stone cult we have ample evidence from
Arabia. El Masoudi alludes to the ancient stone-worship of Arabia, and leads us to
believe that at one time this gross fetichism formed a part of the natural religion
of the Semitic races. Marinus of Tyre says they honoured as a god a great cut stone.
Euthymius Zygabenus <span class="pageNum" id="pb195">[<a href="#pb195">195</a>]</span>further tells us that apparently ‘this stone was the head of Aphrodite, which the
Ishmaelites formerly worshipped, and it is called Bakka Ismak;’ also, he adds, ‘they
have certain stone statues erected in the centre of their houses, round which they
danced till they fell from giddiness; but when the Saracens were converted to Christianity
they were obliged to anathematise this stone, which formerly they worshipped.’<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3135src" href="#xd31e3135">7</a> Herr Kremer, in his account of the ancient cult of Arabia, makes frequent allusions
to the stone-worship. In the town of Taif a great unformed stone block was worshipped,
identical with the goddess which Herodotus calls Urania; and one must imagine that
the Kaaba stone at Mecca resembles the black schistose block which we found at Zimbabwe;
it is an exceedingly old-world worship, dating back to the most primitive ages of
mankind.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p194width" id="p194"><img src="images/p194.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH PROCESSION OF BULLS" width="559" height="204"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH PROCESSION OF BULLS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p195width" id="p195"><img src="images/p195.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH HUNTING SCENE" width="720" height="138"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH HUNTING SCENE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p196width" id="p196"><img src="images/p196.jpg" alt="BOWL WITH ZEBRAS" width="537" height="161"><p class="figureHead">BOWL WITH ZEBRAS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p197width" id="p197"><img src="images/p197.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH PROCESSION" width="341" height="279"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH PROCESSION</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The next series of finds to be discussed are the numerous fragments <span class="pageNum" id="pb196">[<a href="#pb196">196</a>]</span>of decorated and plain soapstone bowls which we found, most of them deeply buried
in the immediate vicinity of the temple on the fortress; and these bring us to consider
more closely the artistic capacities of the race who originally inhabited these ruins.
The work displayed in executing these bowls, the careful rounding of the edges, the
exact execution of the circle, the fine pointed tool-marks, and the subjects they
chose to depict, point to the race having been far advanced in artistic skill—a skill
arrived at, doubtless, by commercial intercourse with the more civilised races of
mankind. Seven of these bowls were of exactly the same size, and were 19·2 inches
in diameter,<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3161src" href="#xd31e3161">8</a> which measurements we ascertained by taking the radii of the several fragments. The
most elaborate of these fragments is a bowl which had depicted around its outer edge
a hunting scene; it is very well worked, and bears in several points a remarkable
similarity to objects of art produced by the Phœnicians. There is here, as we have
in all Phœnician patterns, <span class="pageNum" id="pb197">[<a href="#pb197">197</a>]</span>the straight procession of animals, to break the continuity of which a little man
is introduced shooting a zebra with one hand and holding in the other an animal by
a leash. To fill up a vacant space, a bird is introduced flying, all of which points
are characteristic of Phœnician work. Then the Phœnician workmen always had a great
power of adaptability, taking their lessons in art from their immediate surroundings,
which is noticeable all over the world, whether in Greece, Egypt, Africa, or Italy.
Here we have the same characteristic, namely, a procession of native African animals
treated in a Phœnician style—three zebras, two hippopotami, and the sportsman in the
centre is obviously a Hottentot. The details in this bowl are carefully brought out,
even the breath of the animals is depicted by three strokes at the mouth. There is
also a fragment of another bowl with zebras on it similarly treated, though somewhat
higher and coarser. The fragments of a large bowl, which had a procession of bulls
<span class="pageNum" id="pb198">[<a href="#pb198">198</a>]</span>round it, is also Phœnician in character.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3168src" href="#xd31e3168">9</a> The most noticeable feature in the treatment of these bulls is that the three pairs
of horns we have preserved to us are all different.
</p>
<div class="table" id="p198">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p198-1width"><img src="images/p198-1.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH EAR OF CORN" width="125" height="173"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH EAR OF CORN</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p198-2width"><img src="images/p198-2.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT WITH LETTERING ON IT" width="260" height="174"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT WITH LETTERING ON IT</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>There are three fragments of three very large bowls, which are all of a special interest,
and if the bowls could have been recovered intact they would have formed very valuable
evidence. Search, however, as we would, we never found more of these bowls, and therefore
must be content with what we have. The first of these represents on its side a small
portion of what must have been a religious procession; of this we have only a hand
holding a pot or censer containing an offering in it, and an arm of another figure
with a portion of the back of the head with the hair drawn off it in folds. Representations
of a similar nature are to be found in the religious functions of many Semitic races,
and it is much to be regretted that we have not more of it for our study.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb199">[<a href="#pb199">199</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p199-1width" id="p199-1"><img src="images/p199-1.png" alt="LETTERS FROM PROTO-ARABIAN ALPHABET" width="279" height="75"><p class="figureHead">LETTERS FROM PROTO-ARABIAN ALPHABET</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p199-2width" id="p199-2"><img src="images/p199-2.png" alt="LETTERS ON A ROCK IN BECHUANALAND, COPIED BY MR. A. A. ANDERSON" width="340" height="186"><p class="figureHead">LETTERS ON A ROCK IN BECHUANALAND, COPIED BY MR.&nbsp;A.&nbsp;A. ANDERSON</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The second fragment has an elaborate design upon it, taken from the vegetable world,
probably an ear of corn; it was evidently around the lip of the bowl and not at the
side; it is a very good piece of workmanship, and of a soapstone of brighter green
than that employed in the other articles. The third fragment is perhaps the most tantalising
of all; it is a fragment of the lip of another large bowl which must have been more
than two feet in diameter, and around which apparently an inscription ran. The lettering
is provokingly fragmentary, but still there can be no doubt that it is an attempt
at writing in some form: the straight line down the middle, the sloping lines on either
side recall some system of tally, and the straightness of the lettering compares curiously
with the <span class="pageNum" id="pb200">[<a href="#pb200">200</a>]</span>proto-Arabian type of lettering used in the earlier Sabæan inscriptions, specimens
of which I here give, and also with some curious rock carvings found by Mr. A.&nbsp;A.
Anderson in Bechuanaland. It was common in Phœnician and early Greek vases to have
an inscription or dedication round the lip; <i>vide</i>, for example, a <i>lebes</i> in the British Museum from a temple at Naucratis with a dedication to Apollo on the
rim, and used, like the one before us, in temple service. The circles on the birds
also appear to have a line across, like the fourth letter given as illustrating the
early Arabian alphabet.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p200-1width"><img src="images/p200-1.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH CORD PATTERN" width="536" height="174"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH CORD PATTERN</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p200-2width"><img src="images/p200-2.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL" width="545" height="114"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p id="p201"></p>
<div class="figure p201-1width"><img src="images/p201-1.jpg" alt="PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH HOLE" width="541" height="201"><p class="figureHead">PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH HOLE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p201-2width"><img src="images/p201-2.jpg" alt="PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL" width="362" height="338"><p class="figureHead">PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Of the other fragments of bowls we found, one has a well-executed cord pattern running
round it, another a herring-bone pattern alternating with what <span class="pageNum" id="pb201">[<a href="#pb201">201</a>]</span>would appear to be a representation of the round tower; and besides these there are
several fragments of what have been perfectly plain bowls, notably one large one,
the diameter of which is outside 2 feet and inside 1 foot 8 inches. The edges of this
bowl are very carefully bevelled and the bottom rounded, and <span class="pageNum" id="pb202">[<a href="#pb202">202</a>]</span>it is a very fine specimen of workmanship, the whole of which we were able to recover
saving a portion of the bottom. Another plain bowl has a round hole pierced through
its side, and another fragment is made of a reddish sort of soapstone with oxide of
iron in it. The tool marks on these bowls point to very fine instruments having been
used in carving <span class="pageNum" id="pb203">[<a href="#pb203">203</a>]</span>them. Altogether these bowls are amongst the most conspicuous of our finds, and the
fact they all came from the proximity of the temple would undoubtedly seem to prove
that they were used in temple service, broken by subsequent occupants of the ruins,
and the fragments thrown outside.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p202-1width" id="p202-1"><img src="images/p202-1.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH KNOBS" width="431" height="126"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH KNOBS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p202-2width" id="p202-2"><img src="images/p202-2.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE CYLINDER FROM ZIMBABWE" width="522" height="358"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE CYLINDER FROM ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p203width" id="p203"><img src="images/p203.jpg" alt="OBJECT FROM TEMPLE OF PAPHOS. CYPRUS" width="432" height="377"><p class="figureHead">OBJECT FROM TEMPLE OF PAPHOS. CYPRUS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The next find from Zimbabwe which we will discuss is the circular soapstone object
with a hole in the centre, which at first is suggestive of a quern; but being of such
friable material such could not have been the case. It is decorated round the side
and on the top with rings of knobs, four on the side and four on the top; from the
central hole a groove has been <span class="pageNum" id="pb204">[<a href="#pb204">204</a>]</span>cut to the side, and the whole is very well finished off. This thing is 2 feet 2 inches
in circumference. We also found portions of a smaller bowl with the same knob pattern
thereon. The use of this extraordinary soapstone find is very obscure. Mr. Hogarth
calls my attention to the fact that in the excavations at Paphos, in Cyprus, they
found a similar object, similarly decorated, which they put down as Phœnician. It
is now in the Fitzwilliam Museum at Cambridge, and is a cylindrical object of coarse
white marble six inches in diameter and about four and three-quarter inches high.
It is studded with round projecting studs left in relief on the marble, resembling
in general disposition those on our soapstone find, and there is no question about
the similarity of the two objects. They remind one of Herodian’s description of the
sacred cone in the great Phœnician temple of the sun at Emesa, in Syria (Herodian,
bk. v. § 5), which was adorned with certain ‘knobs or protuberances,’ a pattern supposed
by him to represent the sun, and common in phallic decorations.
</p>
<p>In the vicinity of the temple we also came across some minor objects very near the
surface, which did not do more than establish the world-wide commerce carried on at
the Great Zimbabwe at a much more recent date, and still by the Arabians—namely, a
few fragments of Celadon pottery from China, of Persian ware, an undoubted specimen
of Arabian glass, and beads of doubtful provenance, though one of them may be considered
as Egyptian of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb205">[<a href="#pb205">205</a>]</span>Ptolemaic period. Glass beads almost of precisely the same character—namely, black
with white encircling lines—have come from ancient tombs at Thebes, in Bœotia, and
are to be found in almost every collection of Egyptian curiosities.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p205width" id="p205"><img src="images/p205.jpg" alt="GLASS BEADS, CELADON POTTERY, PERSIAN POTTERY, AND ARABIAN GLASS" width="540" height="345"><p class="figureHead">GLASS BEADS, CELADON POTTERY, PERSIAN POTTERY, AND ARABIAN GLASS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The pottery objects must have been brought here by Arabian traders during the middle
ages, probably when the Monomatapa chiefs ruled over this district and carried on
trade with the Arabians for gold, as European traders do now with objects of bright
appearance and beads. Similar fragments have been found by Sir John Kirk in the neighbourhood
of Quiloa, where in mediæval times was a settlement of <span class="pageNum" id="pb206">[<a href="#pb206">206</a>]</span>Arabs who came from the Persian Gulf, forming an hereditary intercourse between the
Arabs and the east coast of Africa until the Portuguese found them there and drove
them away three centuries ago. It is impossible that a collection of things such as
these could have been brought together by any but a highly commercial race during
the middle ages, and the Arabians alone had this character at the time in question.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p206width" id="p206"><img src="images/p206.jpg" alt="FRAGMENT OF BOWL OF GLAZED POTTERY" width="535" height="329"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENT OF BOWL OF GLAZED POTTERY</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<div class="table" id="p207">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td rowspan="2" class="rowspan cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p207-1width"><img src="images/p207-1.jpg" alt="POTTERY LID" width="163" height="274"><p class="figureHead">POTTERY LID</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop">
<div class="figure p207-2width"><img src="images/p207-2.jpg" alt="GLAZED POTTERY" width="340" height="127"><p class="figureHead">GLAZED POTTERY</p>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellRight cellBottom">
<div class="figure p207-3width"><img src="images/p207-3.jpg" alt="DECORATED FRAGMENT OF POTTERY" width="298" height="192"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED FRAGMENT OF POTTERY</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Considering the large quantity of soapstone fragments, bowls, and other things, the
finds of pottery of a good period at Zimbabwe were not many. Noticeably one piece
of pottery is exceedingly excellent, worthy of a good period of classic Greek ware.
The pattern round it is evidently stamped on, being <span class="pageNum" id="pb207">[<a href="#pb207">207</a>]</span>done with such absolute accuracy. It is geometric, as all the patterns on the pottery
are. It is not hand-made pottery, for on the back of it are distinct signs of a wheel.
Then there are some black fragments with an excellent glaze and bevel, also fragments
of pottery lids, and a pottery stopper, pointing to the fact that the old inhabitants
of Zimbabwe had reached an advanced state of proficiency in ceramic art. Fragments
of one pot with holes neatly bored round the neck remind one of water-coolers still
found in the East. Besides the fragments of pots, we found an enormous number of small
circular objects of pottery, which may have been used as spindle-whorls, though most
of them show no signs of wear, and some of <span class="pageNum" id="pb208">[<a href="#pb208">208</a>]</span>them having rude decorations thereon. The only fragment which shows an attempt at
the use of pottery for other than domestic purposes is a sow which we found in a kitchen
midden just outside the large circular building on the plain, with two phalli near
it. This animal compares well with the rude <span class="pageNum" id="pb209">[<a href="#pb209">209</a>]</span>attempts to depict animal life found in prehistoric excavations on the Mediterranean.
Whether it has any religious significance or not is, of course, only conjecture, but
it is curious that Ælian tells us that the Egyptians ‘sacrifice a sow to the moon
once a year;’ and Herodotus says ‘the only deities to whom the Egyptians are permitted
to offer a pig are the moon and Bacchus.’ All that the pottery proves to us is that
the ancient inhabitants of Zimbabwe had reached a high state of excellence in the
manufacture of it, corresponding to a state of ceramic art known only to the rest
of the world in classical times.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p208-1width"><img src="images/p208-1.jpg" alt="TOP OF POTTERY BOWL" width="536" height="344"><p class="figureHead">TOP OF POTTERY BOWL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<div class="table" id="p208">
<table>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p208-2width"><img src="images/p208-2.jpg" alt="POTTERY WHORLS" width="245" height="165"><p class="figureHead">POTTERY WHORLS</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom vam">
<div class="figure p208-3width"><img src="images/p208-3.jpg" alt="POTTERY SOW" width="224" height="88"><p class="figureHead">POTTERY SOW</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p209width"><img src="images/p209.jpg" alt="POTTERY WHORLS" width="550" height="362"><p class="figureHead">POTTERY WHORLS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p210width" id="p210"><img src="images/p210.jpg" alt="WEAPONS" width="526" height="563"><p class="figureHead">WEAPONS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p211width" id="p211"><img src="images/p211.jpg" alt="IRON BELL" width="470" height="517"><p class="figureHead">IRON BELL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Concerning the bronze and iron weapons and implements which we found at Zimbabwe it
is very difficult to say anything definite. In the first place, <span class="pageNum" id="pb210">[<a href="#pb210">210</a>]</span>these ruins have been overrun for centuries by Kaffir races with a knowledge of iron-smelting,
who would at once utilise fragments of iron which they found for their own purposes;
secondly, the shapes and sizes of arrows and spear-heads correspond very closely to
those in use amongst the natives now. As against this it must be said that there are
many iron objects amongst <span class="pageNum" id="pb211">[<a href="#pb211">211</a>]</span>our finds which are quite unlike anything which ever came out of a Kaffir workshop,
and the patterns of the assegai, or spear-head, and arrow are probably of great antiquity,
handed down from generation to generation to the present day. Amongst the most curious
of our iron finds at Zimbabwe certainly are the double iron bells, of which we found
three in the neighbourhood of the temple on the fortress. Similar bells are found
now on the Congo. There are some <span class="pageNum" id="pb212">[<a href="#pb212">212</a>]</span>in the British Museum, and also in the Geographical Society’s Museum at Lisbon, which
came from San Salvador, on the Congo, and are called Chingongo, whereas amongst the
present race inhabiting Mashonaland the knowledge of this bell does not exist, nor
did it presumably exist in Dos Santos’ days, who <span class="pageNum" id="pb213">[<a href="#pb213">213</a>]</span>enumerates all the Kaffir instruments which he saw; and he would assuredly have mentioned
these bells had they existed there in his days 300 years ago. We must, therefore,
conclude that either these bells are ancient, and were used by the old inhabitants
of these ruins, the traditional form of which has been continued amongst the negroes
of the Congo, or that some northern race closely allied to the Congo races swept over
this country at some time or another, and have left this trace of their occupation.
The barbed bronze spear-head we found under a mass of fallen rock close to the entrance
<span class="pageNum" id="pb214">[<a href="#pb214">214</a>]</span>to the fortress. This again finds a parallel in weapons which come from much farther
north in Nubia, though its execution is finer than any of that class which has come
before my notice. The shape of this weapon is exactly the same as that of the unbarbed
spear-head, which has a coating of gold on it,<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3328src" href="#xd31e3328">10</a> and shows the same peculiarity of make as the assegai-heads still made by the natives—namely,
the fluting which <span class="pageNum" id="pb215">[<a href="#pb215">215</a>]</span>runs down the centre being reversed on either side. Then there are the tools—chisels,
an adze, pincers, spades, &amp;c., which are quite unknown to the Kaffir races which now
inhabit this country. Still it is possible that all these things may have been made
during the time of the Monomatapa, who evidently had reached a higher pitch of civilisation
than that existing to-day; so that I am inclined to set aside the iron implements
as pertaining to a more recent occupation, though at the same time there is no actual
reason for not assigning to them a remoter antiquity.
</p>
<div class="table">
<table class="p041">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom vam">
<div class="figure p212-1width"><img src="images/p212-1.jpg" alt="HALF OF AN IRON BELL" width="407" height="571"><p class="figureHead">HALF OF AN IRON BELL</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p212-2width"><img src="images/p212-2.jpg" alt="BRONZE SPEAR-HEAD" width="107" height="572"><p class="figureHead">BRONZE SPEAR-HEAD</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p213width" id="p213"><img src="images/p213.jpg" alt="BATTLE-AXE AND ARROWS" width="513" height="448"><p class="figureHead">BATTLE-AXE AND ARROWS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p214width"><img src="images/p214.jpg" alt="BATTLE-AXE" width="545" height="502"><p class="figureHead">BATTLE-AXE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The finds in the fortress of Zimbabwe which touch upon, perhaps, the most interesting
topic of all are those which refer to the manufacture of gold. Close underneath the
temple in the fortress stood a gold-smelting furnace made of very hard cement of powdered
granite, with a chimney of the same material, and with neatly bevelled edges. Hard
by, in a chasm between two boulders, lay all the rejected casings from which the gold-bearing
quartz had been extracted by exposure to heat prior to the crushing, proving beyond
a doubt that these mines, though not immediately on a gold reef, formed the capital
of a gold-producing people who had chosen this hill fortress with its granite boulders
for their capital owing to its peculiar strategic advantages. Gold reefs and old workings
have been lately discovered about twelve miles from Zimbabwe, and it was from these
that their auriferous quartz was doubtless obtained.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p216width" id="p216"><img src="images/p216.jpg" alt="GILT SPEAR-HEAD" width="82" height="466"><p class="figureHead">GILT SPEAR-HEAD</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Near the above-mentioned furnace we found many <span class="pageNum" id="pb216">[<a href="#pb216">216</a>]</span>little crucibles, of a composition of clay, which had been used for smelting the gold,
and in nearly all of them still exist small specks of gold adhering to the glaze formed
by the heat of the process. Also we found several water-worn stones, which had been
used as burnishers, which was evidenced by the quantity of gold still adhering to
them; and in the adjoining cave we dug up an ingot mould of soapstone of a curious
shape, corresponding almost exactly to an ingot of tin found in Falmouth Harbour,
which is now in the Truro Museum, and a cast of which may be seen at the School of
Mines in Jermyn Street. This ingot of tin was undoubtedly made by Phœnician workmen,
for it bears a punch mark thereon like those usually employed by workmen of that period;
and Sir Henry James, in his pamphlet describing it, draws attention to the statement
of Diodorus, that in ancient Britain ingots of tin were made <span class="trans" title="astragalōn rhythmous"><span lang="grc" class="grek">ἀστραγάλων ῥυθμοὺς</span></span>, or of the shape of astragali or knuckle-bones; and the form of both the ingots is
such that the astragalus may easily be used as a rough simile to describe them. Probably
this shape of ingot was common in the ancient world, for Sir John Evans, K.C.B., has
called my attention to an ingot mould somewhat similar in form, found in Dalmatia,
and the Kaffirs far north of the Zambesi <span class="pageNum" id="pb218">[<a href="#pb218">218</a>]</span>now make ingots of iron of a shape which might easily be supposed to have been derived
from the astragalus; but at the same time the finding of two ingots in two remote
places where Phœnician influence has been proved to be so strong is very good presumptive
evidence to establish the fact that the gold workers of ancient Zimbabwe worked for
the Phœnician market. A small soapstone object with a hole in the centre would appear
to have been a sort of tool used for beating gold.
</p>
<p id="p217"></p>
<div class="figure p217-1width"><img src="images/p217-1.jpg" alt="TOOLS" width="545" height="393"><p class="figureHead">TOOLS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p217-2width"><img src="images/p217-2.jpg" alt="TOOLS" width="533" height="444"><p class="figureHead">TOOLS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p id="p218"></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p218-1width"><img src="images/p218-1.png" alt="ANCIENT SPADE" width="144" height="315"><p class="figureHead">ANCIENT SPADE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p218-2width"><img src="images/p218-2.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE INGOT MOULD. ZIMBABWE" width="550" height="225"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE INGOT MOULD. ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p id="p219"></p>
<div class="figure p219-1width" id="p219-1"><img src="images/p219-1.jpg" alt="INGOT OF TIN FOUND IN FALMOUTH HARBOUR" width="445" height="135"><p class="figureHead">INGOT OF TIN FOUND IN FALMOUTH HARBOUR</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p219-2width" id="p219-2"><img src="images/p219-2.jpg" alt="SOAPSTONE OBJECT" width="118" height="151"><p class="figureHead">SOAPSTONE OBJECT</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p220width" id="p220"><img src="images/p220.jpg" alt="BEVELLED EDGE OF GOLD-SMELTING FURNACE" width="401" height="299"><p class="figureHead">BEVELLED EDGE OF GOLD-SMELTING FURNACE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>An interesting parallel to the ancient gold workings in Mashonaland is to be found
by studying the account of the ancient gold workings at the Egyptian gold mines in
Wadi Allaga, also given us by Diodorus. There, too, the gold was extracted from the
quartz by a process of crushing and washing, as we can see from <span class="pageNum" id="pb219">[<a href="#pb219">219</a>]</span>the process depicted in the paintings on the Egyptian tombs; and in any gold-producing
quarter of Mashonaland, near old shafts and by the side of streams, innumerable crushing-stones
are still to be seen, used anciently for a like purpose, when slave labour was employed.
Diodorus tells us of the gangs of slaves employed, of the long dark shaft into which
they descended, of which a countless number are scattered still over Mashonaland;
and after describing the process of washing and crushing he concludes: ‘They then
put the gold into earthen crucibles well closed with clay, and leave it in a furnace
for five successive days and nights, after which it is suffered to cool. The crucibles
are then opened, and nothing is found in them but the pure gold a little diminished
in quantity.’ Hence it is obvious that the process employed by the ancient Egyptians
for crushing, smelting, and forming into ingots was exactly the same as that employed
by the ancient inhabitants of Zimbabwe; which fact, when <span class="pageNum" id="pb220">[<a href="#pb220">220</a>]</span>taken in conjunction with the vast amount of evidence of ancient cult, ancient construction,
and ancient art, is, I think, conclusive that the gold-fields of Mashonaland formed
one at least of the sources from which came the gold of Arabia, and that the forts
and towns which ran up the whole length of this gold-producing country were made to
protect their men engaged in this industry. The cumulative evidence is greatly in
favour of the gold diggers being of Arabian origin, before the Sabæo-Himyaritic period
in all probability, who did work for and were brought closely into contact with both
Egypt and Phœnicia, penetrating to many countries unknown to the rest of the world.
The Bible is full of allusions to the wealth of Arabia in gold and other things. Ezekiel
tells us that the Sabæans were merchants in gold for the markets of Tyre. Aristeas
<span class="pageNum" id="pb221">[<a href="#pb221">221</a>]</span>tells us that a large quantity of spices, precious stones, and gold was brought to
Rome <span class="trans" title="dia tōn Arabōn"><span lang="grc" class="grek">διὰ τῶν Ἀράβων</span></span>, not from Arabia, but by the Arabians. The testimony of all travellers in Arabia
is to the effect that little or no gold could have come from the Arabian peninsula
itself; it is, therefore, almost certain that the country round Zimbabwe formed one
at least of the spots from which the ‘<i lang="la">Thesaurus Arabum</i>’ came. Egyptian monuments also point to the wealth of the people of Punt, and the
ingots of gold which they sent as tribute to Queen Hatasou. No one, of course, is
prepared to say exactly where the kingdom of Punt was; the consensus of opinion is
that it was Yemen, in the south of Arabia. But suppose it to be there, or suppose
it to be on the coast of Africa, opposite Arabia, or even suppose it to be Zimbabwe
itself, the question is the same: <span class="pageNum" id="pb222">[<a href="#pb222">222</a>]</span>where did they get the large supply of gold from, which they poured into Egypt and
the then known world? In Mashonaland we seem to have a direct answer to this question.
It would seem to be evident that a prehistoric race built the ruins in this country,
a race like the mythical Pelasgi who inhabited the shores of Greece and Asia Minor,
a race like the mythical inhabitants of Great Britain and France who built Stonehenge
and Carnac, a race which continued in possession down to the earliest dawnings of
history, which provided gold for the merchants of Phœnicia and Arabia, and which eventually
became influenced by and perhaps absorbed in the more powerful and wealthier organisations
of the Semite.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p221width" id="p221"><img src="images/p221.jpg" alt="CRUCIBLES FOR SMELTING GOLD FOUND AT ZIMBABWE" width="543" height="301"><p class="figureHead">CRUCIBLES FOR SMELTING GOLD FOUND AT ZIMBABWE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p222width" id="p222"><img src="images/p222.jpg" alt="FRAGMENTS OF POTTERY BLOW-PIPES FROM FURNACE" width="486" height="171"><p class="figureHead">FRAGMENTS OF POTTERY BLOW-PIPES FROM FURNACE</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb223">[<a href="#pb223">223</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e2997">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e2997src">1</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, p. <a href="#p181" class="pageref">181</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e2997src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3006">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3006src">2</a></span> <i>Vide</i> Illustration, p. <a href="#p181" class="pageref">181</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3006src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3037">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3037src">3</a></span> Lucian, <i lang="la">De Syriâ Deâ</i>, p. 477.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3037src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3045">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3045src">4</a></span> Perrot and Chipiez’s <i lang="la">Phœnicia</i>, p. 281.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3045src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3054">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3054src">5</a></span> Kremer, <i lang="de">Akademie der Wissenschaft</i>. Wien.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3054src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3095">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3095src">6</a></span> <i>Herod.</i> Bk. III. § 8.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3095src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3135">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3135src">7</a></span> <i lang="de">Akademie der Wissenschaft.</i> Wien 1890.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3135src" title="Return to note 7 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3161">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3161src">8</a></span> Equal to two Egyptian spans of 9·58 inches.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3161src" title="Return to note 8 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3168">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3168src">9</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, p. <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3168src" title="Return to note 9 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3328">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3328src">10</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, p. <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3328src" title="Return to note 10 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch7" class="div1 last-child chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e444">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER VII</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE MASHONALAND RUINS</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The ancient geography of the east coast of Africa is a subject fraught with difficulties
on all sides. To begin with, our authorities are not only meagre, but they are men
who had no practical knowledge of the subject, and who knew next to nothing of the
vast extent of commercial operations which were going on outside the limits of the
Red Sea. The written accounts come to us from either an Alexandrian or Roman source,
whereas the practical knowledge possessed by the Arabs themselves of these outer waters
is lost to us for ever. It was probably the monopolising policy of the Semitic nations
which induced them to conceal from other countries the whereabouts of their commercial
relations, which on the one hand extended outside the pillars of Hercules to the Canaries
and Great Britain, and on the other hand outside the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb to India,
China, and the east coast of Africa. Of these two directions the voyage to <span class="pageNum" id="pb224">[<a href="#pb224">224</a>]</span>Great Britain was undoubtedly the most adventurous, the navigation of the Indian Ocean
with a knowledge of the monsoons, which the Arabian who lived on it must have had
from time immemorial, presenting far less difficulty. Hippalus has the credit of introducing
the monsoons to Western civilisation, but surely a seafaring race like the Arabians,
who lived on the spot, must have known all about them long before his day; and just
as they were reticent on the subject of their voyages, so were they reticent on the
subject of the localities from which their merchandise came. The knowledge given us
by Marinus of Tyre, by the anonymous author of the ‘Periplus of the Red Sea,’ by Ptolemy,
by Pliny, and others, was obviously not the knowledge possessed by the traders of
the world, for they do not even attempt to elucidate the question of where the precious
commodities came from which they enumerate.
</p>
<p>Ptolemy’s information is provokingly vague, and he candidly admits in his first chapter
that it was obtained from a merchant of Arabia Felix; he gives us such names as Cape
Aromata, supposed to be Guardafui, outside the straits, the inland province of Azania
and Rhapta. The only thing we gather from him is that they were trade emporia, and
therefore places of considerable importance.
</p>
<p>The ‘Periplus’ enters into further details, and mentions that the Arab settlement
at Rhapta was subject to the sovereign of Maphartes, a dependency of Sabæa or Yemen.
Dean Vincent imagines Rhapta <span class="pageNum" id="pb225">[<a href="#pb225">225</a>]</span>to have been 10° south of the equator, that is to say, near Quiloa, where again an
Arab settlement continued right down into the middle ages. The ‘Periplus’ further
tells how Muza, Aden, and other points near the mouth of the Red Sea were emporia
for the goods brought from outside by the Arabians and then transferred to Egyptian
and Phœnician trading vessels.
</p>
<p>Further south the ‘Periplus’ mentions Prasum as the farthest point known to the author;
and here he says ‘an ocean curves towards sunset and, stretching along the southern
extremities of Ethiopia, Libya, and Africa, amalgamates with the western sea.’ All
this probably the author of the ‘Periplus’ got from the Arabs, just as the Portuguese
got all their information from the same source thirteen centuries later, and just
as Herodotus got his vague story of the circumnavigation of Africa six centuries before,
when he tells us how the Phœnicians in the service of Pharaoh Necho, <span class="asc">B.C.</span> 600, ‘as they sailed round Africa had the sun on their right hand.’
</p>
<p>From these and other statements in Marinus of Tyre, Pliny, and others, it is obvious
that the waters of East Africa were known only to the Greeks and Romans vaguely through
a Phœnician and Arabian source. The early legendary stories of Greece tell of a voyage
fraught with every danger in search of gold. The celebrated Argonautic expedition
has given commentators an immense amount of trouble to reconcile its conflicting statements—namely,
that it went <span class="pageNum" id="pb226">[<a href="#pb226">226</a>]</span>to the extremities of the Euxine, entered the great stream ocean that went round the
world, and returned by the Nile and Libya. It certainly appears to me simple to suppose
that it is merely the mutilation of some early Phœnician story made to suit the existing
circumstances of the people to whom the story was narrated. The Bible gives us the
account of King Solomon’s expedition undertaken under Phœnician auspices; in fact,
the civilised world was full of accounts of such voyages, told us, unfortunately,
in the vaguest way, owing doubtless to the fact that those who undertook them guarded
carefully their secret.
</p>
<p>From an Egyptian source also certain knowledge may be gained, though the Egyptians
themselves would appear never to have carried their commerce outside the Straits of
Bab-el-Mandeb, but to have met at the port of Adule, at the south of the Red Sea,
Arabian merchants who did so. Now in the reign of Queen Hatasou, of the eighteenth
dynasty, in the seventeenth century <span class="asc">B.C.</span>, the land of Punt was conquered by an Egyptian expedition, and on the monuments of
Deir-el-Bahari the conquered people of Punt are depicted as sending tribute, which
included ebony, ostrich feathers, leopard skins, giraffes, lions, living leopards,
cynocephalous apes, elephants’ tusks, and ingots of gold, all products of South-eastern
Africa. When compared with the Biblical account of King Solomon’s expedition about
seven centuries later, the productions of both show a very <span class="pageNum" id="pb227">[<a href="#pb227">227</a>]</span>remarkable analogy. Gold was the most important of the objects brought, gold in ingots
such as the mould would produce which we found at Zimbabwe, and the gold of Arabia
in antiquity was proverbial. During the height of the prosperity of Rome gold was
sent thither by the Arabians, as we have seen from Aristeas. Horace bears testimony
to this in his line, ‘<span lang="la">Thesauris Arabum et divitis Indiæ.</span>’ Agatharcides, in <span class="asc">B.C.</span> 120, speaks in glowing terms of the wealth of the Sabæans; allusions to it are common
in the Bible, and the connection between Phœnicia and Arabia is borne testimony to
by Ezekiel in his denunciation of Tyre: ‘Arabia and all the princes of Kedar, they
occupied with thee in lambs, and rams, and goats: in these were they thy merchants.
The merchants of Sheba and Raamah, they were thy merchants: they occupied in thy fairs
with chief of all spices, and with all precious stones, and gold.’<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3472src" href="#xd31e3472">1</a> Probably community of origin, the inherent commercial instinct common to the Semitic
races, brought about this intimate relationship between Phœnicia and Sabæa. Another
testimony to the wealth of gold in Arabia is given us by the Assyrian inscriptions,
on which Tiglath Pileser II., <span class="asc">B.C.</span> 733, is mentioned as receiving tribute from that country in gold, silver, and much
incense; and Sargon in his annals also mentions the tribute of Shamsi, Queen of Arabia,
as paid in gold and spices. There was little, if any, gold to be found in Arabia itself;
on this point all travellers who have <span class="pageNum" id="pb228">[<a href="#pb228">228</a>]</span>penetrated this country are agreed. Here, near the east coast of Africa, far nearer
to Arabia than India and China and other places, which they were accustomed to visit,
not only is there evidence of the extensive production of gold, but also evidence
of a cult known to Arabia and Phœnicia alike, temples built on accurate mathematical
principles, containing kindred objects of art, methods of producing gold known to
have been employed in the ancient world, and evidence of a vast population devoted
to the mining of gold.
</p>
<p>As to the vexed question of the land of Ophir, I do not feel that it is necessary
to go into the arguments for and against here. Mashonaland may have been the land
of Ophir or it may not; it may have been the land of Punt or it may not; Ophir and
Punt may be identical, and both situated here, or they may be both elsewhere. There
is not enough evidence, as far as I can see, to build up any theory on these points
which will satisfy the more critical investigation to which subjects of this kind
are submitted in the present day. All that we can satisfactorily establish is that
from this country the ancient Arabians got a great deal of gold; but as gold was in
common use in prehistoric times, and lavishly used many centuries before our era,
there is no doubt that the supply must have been enormous, and must have been obtained
from more places than one. ‘Tyre heaped up silver as the dust, and fine gold as the
mire of the streets,’ Zechariah tells us (ix. 3), and the subject could be flooded
with <span class="pageNum" id="pb229">[<a href="#pb229">229</a>]</span>evidence from sculptural and classical sources; and though the output from the old
workings in Mashonaland is seen to have been immense, yet it can hardly have supplied
the demand that antiquity made upon it. The study of Arabian and Phœnician enterprise
outside the Red Sea is only now in its infancy—we have only as yet enough evidence
to prove its extent, and that the ruins in Mashonaland owe their origin to it.
</p>
<p>After the commencement of the Christian era there is a great gap in our geographical
knowledge of these parts; and as far as Western civilisation is concerned, this corner
of the world had to be discovered anew. It was not so, however, with the Arabians,
who, though probably banished from the interior many centuries before by the incursions
of savage tribes, still held to the coast, and exchanged with the natives their cloth
and their beads for gold which they brought down. Of Arab extension in Africa we have
also other evidence. The ‘Periplus’ tells us that the Sabæan King Kharabit in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 35 was in possession of the east coast of Africa to an indefinite extent. The Greek
inscription from Axume in Abyssinia, copied by Mr. Salt in his travels there, further
confirms this. It was a dedication to Mars of one golden statue, one silver, and three
of brass in honour of a victory gained by ‘Aizanes, king of the Axomites, of the Homerites
(given us by Eratosthenes as one of the Arabian tribes), of the Æthiopians, and of
the Sabæans.’ Three cities of the name of Sabæ are <span class="pageNum" id="pb230">[<a href="#pb230">230</a>]</span>mentioned as connected with this kingdom, two in Arabia and one in Æthiopia; and now
we have the river which doubtless in those days formed the great outlet for the population
between the Zambesi and the Limpopo, still bearing the name of Sabæ or Sabi, and in
the Æthiopian tongue the word Saba is still used for ‘a man.’ Herr Eduard Glaser,
the Arabian traveller and decipherer of Himyaritic inscriptions, states in his work:
‘So much is absolutely certain, that Himyar (Arabia) then possessed almost the whole
of East Africa. Such a possession, however, was not won in a night, but rather presupposes,
in those old times, without cannon and without powder, centuries of exertion.’
</p>
<p>Arabian writers of the ninth and tenth centuries a.d. frequently allude to the gold
of Sofala; but to the Western world this country was a blank until Portuguese enterprise
again opened it out. John II. of Portugal sent Pedro de Covilham and Alfonso de Payva
in 1487 to Cairo to gather information concerning a route to India by the Cape. It
is not at all unlikely that Covilham heard from the Arabs reports concerning the gold
country behind Sofala; but sufficient evidence to this effect is not forthcoming.
He died in Abyssinia, and never returned to Portugal to tell in person his experiences.
At any rate, ten years later the Cape was rounded by the Portuguese, and Vasco da
Gama in all the ports he called at on the east coast of Africa found Arab traders
established, who told him about the gold. The next expedition, <span class="pageNum" id="pb231">[<a href="#pb231">231</a>]</span>under Alvarez de Cahal in 1505, found Sofala, and in its harbour two Arab dhows laden
with gold.
</p>
<p>The Portuguese commander, Pedro de Nhaya, took possession of the town of Sofala in
the name of the King of Portugal and garrisoned the old Arab fort there, and with
this act began the modern history of this country, about which a veil of mystery had
hung from the very beginning of time. That the Arabs were confined to the coast at
this period is evident from Duarte Barbosa’s remarks, who wrote in 1514: ‘The merchants
bring to Sofala the gold which they sell to the Moors (the name applied to the Arabs
by the Portuguese), without weighing it, for coloured stuffs, and beads of Cambay.’
</p>
<p>Before discussing the Portuguese accounts of this country, let us linger a little
longer amongst the Arabs, and see what we can get from them about the inhabitants
of this district and the irruption of the wild Zindj tribes over it, which probably
caused the destruction of the earlier civilisation. Zaneddin Omar ibn <span class="corr" id="xd31e3500" title="Source: l’">’l</span> Wardi’ gives us an account of these Zindj. He wrote in the 336th year of the Hegira,
and tells us that ‘their habitations extend from the extremity of the gulf to the
low land of gold, Sofala ’t il Dhab,’ and remarks on a peculiarity of theirs, namely,
that ‘they sharpen their teeth and polish them to a point.’ He goes on to say: ‘Sofala
’t il Dhab adjoins the eastern borders of the Zindj … the most remarkable produce
of this country is its quantity of native gold, that is found in pieces of two or
three <i>meskalla</i>, <span class="pageNum" id="pb232">[<a href="#pb232">232</a>]</span>in spite of which the natives generally adorn their persons with ornaments of brass.’
He also states that iron is found in this country and that the natives have skill
in working it, and adds that ‘ships come from India to fetch it.’ This shows us the
origin of the skill still possessed by the natives in smelting iron, which has been
handed down from generation to generation.
</p>
<p>El Masoudi, who has been called the Herodotus of Arabia, gives us still further details
about the race, speaking of Sofala as a place to which the Arabs of his time went
habitually to obtain gold and precious stones from the natives. He is more explicit
about the descent from the north of the Zindj tribes, which took place not long before
his day; and unless there was a previous wave of barbarians, concerning whom we have
no account, it may be supposed that it was owing to their advent that the gold settlements
up country were finally abandoned, and the Arab traders restricted to the coast. Describing
the natives of the land behind Sofala, he speaks of them as negroes naked except for
panther skins; they filed their teeth and were cannibals; they fought with long lances,
and had ambuscades for game. They hunted for elephants, but never used for their own
purposes the ivory or gold in which their country abounded. From this picture it is
easy to see that in those days the inhabitants were just as they are now, an uncultured
wild race of savages. We get another testimony to this in the voyage of two Arabs
<span class="pageNum" id="pb233">[<a href="#pb233">233</a>]</span>who went to China in 851 <span class="asc">A.D.</span>, and returned by the east coast of Africa. M. Renaudot has translated their experiences,
in which they describe the Zindj as follows: ‘Among them are preachers who harangue
them, clad in a leopard skin. One of these men, with a staff in his hand, shall present
himself before them, and having gathered a multitude of people about him, preach all
the day to them. He speaks of God and recites the actions of their countrymen who
are gone before them.’ In this account we easily recognise the witch-doctor and ancestor
worship, the Mozimos and Muali of the present race. Abou Zeyd’s evidence is also to
the same effect. He thus speaks of the Zindj: ‘Religious discourses are pronounced
before this people, and one never finds elsewhere such constant preachers. There are
men devoted to this life who cover themselves with panther and monkey skins. They
have a staff in their hands, and go from place to place.’ Quite an accurate description
of the South African witch-doctor. Consequently, from this mass of evidence we may
affirm with absolute certainty that for a thousand years at least there has been no
change in the condition of this country and its inhabitants. Further testimony to
the same effect is given us by Edrisi in his geography, who alludes to the Zendj tribes
as inhabiting this country, and occupying the coast towns Dendema and Siorma, ‘which
latter is situated on a gulf where foreign vessels come to anchor.’ He speaks, too,
of the iron trade which the Zendj carried <span class="pageNum" id="pb234">[<a href="#pb234">234</a>]</span>on with the Indians, and of the abundance of gold in the mountains behind Sofala,
adding, ‘nevertheless, the inhabitants prefer brass, making their ornaments of the
latter metal.’
</p>
<p>The simple Arabian stories of Sindbad the sailor and Aladdin are quite as credible
as some of the stories which the first Portuguese travellers who visited the east
coast of Africa tell us about the great Emperor Monomatapa and the wealth of gold
in his dominions. When they first appeared on the scenes the Monomatapa was a big
Kaffir chief, like Cetewayo or Lobengulu, who ruled over the gold district in which
the Zimbabwe ruins are situated; nevertheless they burden their accounts with stories
of the gilded halls in which he lived, of nuggets of the precious metal as big as
a man’s head, and which with their force raised the roots of trees. Needless to say
these are the fabrications of their own brains, written to attract attention to the
country they had discovered.
</p>
<p>That this big Kaffir chief, Monomatapa, lived at his Zimbabwe or head kraal is, however,
pretty clear, not necessarily at the place where the ruins are, because the whole
of this country is scattered with Zimbabwes. Each petty chief now calls his head kraal
by this name, and this fact, not thoroughly recognised, has brought about endless
confusion in topography. The derivation for this name which to my mind appears the
most satisfactory is of Abantu origin, and came from the north, where it is generally
used <span class="pageNum" id="pb235">[<a href="#pb235">235</a>]</span>to denote the head kraal of any chief. <i>Zi</i> is the Abantu root for a village, <i>umzi</i> being in Zulu the term for a collection of kraals. <i>Zimbab</i> would signify somewhat the same, or rather ‘the great kraal,’ and <i>we</i> is the terminal denoting an exclamation, so that Zimbabwe would mean, ‘here is the
great kraal.’
</p>
<p>Again, another source of confusion arises from the fact that Monomatapa—or, as it
ought to be written, <i>Muene</i>, or lord of Matapa—is a dynastic name, just as every petty chief in Mashonaland to-day
has his dynastic name, which he takes on succeeding to the chiefdom. So did the lords
of Matapa. In various Portuguese treaties we have the names of different Monomatapa’s:
one is called Manuza, another Lucere, and so forth, right down to the days of Livingstone,
when the Monomatapa he mentions was a petty chief near the Zambesi.
</p>
<p>When the Portuguese arrived at Sofala they got a lot of information from the Arab
traders they found there concerning the wonders of the country, the great chief and
the great ruins; and as Zimbabwe was the name of the chief’s residence and the name
given by the inhabitants to the ruins, it is not to be wondered at that some confusion
arose.
</p>
<p>Now these Arab traders were particularly and not unnaturally jealous of the arrival
of the Portuguese, perhaps not unlike the Portuguese are now of the British arrival.
They made all the mischief they could between the Portuguese and the natives, they
represented the Portuguese Jesuit Father Silveira, who <span class="pageNum" id="pb236">[<a href="#pb236">236</a>]</span>nearly managed to convert the Monomatapa to Christianity, as a spy, and conduced to
his martyrdom in 1561. In fact, one of the great obstacles to the success of the Portuguese
was Arab jealousy, which was at the bottom of the failure of all their expeditions
up country.
</p>
<p>Of all the Portuguese travellers who wrote about this country, Father dos Santos is
the most reliable. Though he did not travel far up country, nevertheless he told no
lies; and anyone who has been amongst the inhabitants as they are now will recognise
in his narrative a faithful and accurate account of the people, proving how little
they have altered in the lapse of between three and four centuries. A few extracts
will show this: ‘They beat their palms, which is their mode of courtesy.’<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3540src" href="#xd31e3540">2</a> ‘They smelt iron and make mattocks, arrows, assegai-points, spears, little axes,
and they have more iron than is necessary, and of copper they make bracelets, and
both men and women use them for their legs and arms.’ He describes their indistinct
idea of a Supreme Being, their feasts in honour of their ancestors, their curious
pianos, ‘with bars of iron enclosed in a pumpkin,’ their ‘wine of millet, which the
Portuguese could not bear, but were obliged to drink and make festivity, for fear
of quarrelling.’ ‘They have an infinity of fowls, like those of Portugal;’ and also
he describes the days on which they are not to work, appointed by the king, unknown
to them, when they make <span class="pageNum" id="pb237">[<a href="#pb237">237</a>]</span>feasts and call these days <i>Mozimos</i>, or days of the holy already dead.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3551src" href="#xd31e3551">3</a> In fact, this narrative is so truthful in all its details, that we may safely take
from it his account of the disintegration of the Monomatapa chiefdom, as it accounts
for many things which otherwise would be obscure. He tells us that a Monomatapa sent
three sons to govern in three provinces, Quiteve, Sedanda, and Chicanga; on their
father’s death they refused to give up to the heir their respective territories, and
the country became divided into four. Since then it has been subdivided again and
again; each petty chief fought with his neighbour, union was impossible, and in their
turn they have fallen an easy prey to the powerful Zulu organisation under Umzilikatze
and his successor Lobengulu. This I take to be, in a few words, the history of the
country and its people during modern times, and as much probably as will ever be known
of them.
</p>
<p>Dos Santos calls these people Mocarangas, and in this too, I think, he is right, for
the reasons I have previously given.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3560src" href="#xd31e3560">4</a> They are now, as we have seen, a miserable race of outcasts, fleeing to the mountain
fastnesses on the approach of a Zulu raid, hounded and robbed until there is no more
spirit in them. Monteiro mentions a Monomotapa, or emperor of Chidima, very decayed,
but respectable, with a territory to the west of the Zambesi, near Zumbo. This is
probably the same that Livingstone alludes to. An interesting fact that Monteiro also
gives us is the <span class="pageNum" id="pb238">[<a href="#pb238">238</a>]</span>number of Zimbabwes north of the Zambesi, as the head kraals of chiefs, showing the
northern origin of the name.
</p>
<p>Having considered the people in whose country the Great Zimbabwe ruins are, let us
now proceed to cull what we can from a Portuguese source concerning the ruins themselves.
</p>
<p>De Barros<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3571src" href="#xd31e3571">5</a> gives us the fullest account of the ruins. Let us take it and see what it is worth:
‘In the midst of the plains in the kingdom of Batua, in the country of Toroe, nearest
the oldest gold mines, stands a fortress, square, admirably built, inside and out,
of hard stone. The blocks of which the walls consist are put together without mortar
and are of marvellous size. The walls are twenty-five spans in thickness; their height
is not so considerable compared with their breadth. Over the gate of the building
is an inscription, which neither the Moorish traders (the Arabs of the coast) who
were there, nor others learned in inscriptions, could read, nor does anyone know in
what character it is written. On the heights around the edifice stand others in like
manner built of masonry without mortar; among them a tower of more than twelve <span class="corr" id="xd31e3577" lang="pt" title="Source: bracas">braças</span> (yards) in height. All those buildings are called by the natives <i>Zimbahe</i>—that is, the royal residence or court, as are all royal dwellings in Monomotapa.
Their guardian, a man of noble birth, has here the chief command, and is called Symbacao;
under his care are some of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb239">[<a href="#pb239">239</a>]</span>wives of Monomotapa, who constantly reside here. When and by whom these buildings
were erected is unknown to the natives, who have no written characters. They merely
say they are the work of the Devil (supernatural), because they are beyond their powers
to execute. Besides these, there is to be found no other mason work, ancient or modern,
in that region, seeing that all the dwellings of the barbarians are of wood and rushes.’
</p>
<p>De Barros further states that when the Portuguese Governor of Sofala, Captain Vicento
Pegado, pointed to the masonry of the fort there, with a view to comparison with the
buildings up country, the Moors (Arabs) who had been at the ruins observed that the
latter structure was of such absolute perfection that nothing could be compared to
it; and they gave their opinion that the buildings were very ancient, and erected
for the protection of the neighbouring gold mines. From this, De Barros inferred that
the ruins must be the Agizymba of Ptolemy,<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3586src" href="#xd31e3586">6</a> and founded by some ancient ruler of the gold country, who was unable to hold his
ground, as in the case of the city of Axume, in Abyssinia.
</p>
<p>In criticising this account, it is at once apparent that it was written by a person
who had never seen the ruins; the fortress is round, not square; the blocks of stone
are all small and not of ‘marvellous size;’ the <span class="pageNum" id="pb240">[<a href="#pb240">240</a>]</span>tower is wrongly placed on the heights above instead of in the ruin on the plain.
But at the same time De Barros is candid, and as good as tells us that his account
was gathered from ‘the Moorish traders who were there.’ That is to say, all the wonders
of the upper country we get second hand from an Arabian source. Legends of inscriptions
on stone are common to all mysterious ruins in every country. Possibly the decorated
soapstone pillar gave rise to it, as it did to the subsequent account of the ‘Zimbabwe
cryptogram,’ which ran through the papers shortly after the visit of the first pioneers
of the Chartered Company. At all events, now there is no sign of anything over any
gateway or any trace of such a stone having been removed.
</p>
<p>Alvarez gives us an account even vaguer than De Barros. The following is Pory’s translation,
published in London in 1600: ‘For here in Toroa and in divers places of Monomatapa
are till this day remaining manie huge and ancient buildings of timber, lime and stone
being singular workmanship, the like whereof are not to be found in all the provinces
thereabout. Heere is also a mightie wall of five-and-twenty spannes thick, which the
people ascribe to the workmanship of the divell, being accounted from Sofala 510 miles
the nearest way.’
</p>
<p><i>Pigafetta</i> copies this account in pretty much the same strain, as also does <i>Dapper</i>, whose account of this country is a tissue of exaggerations. He says: ‘In this country,
far to the inland on a plain <span class="pageNum" id="pb241">[<a href="#pb241">241</a>]</span>in the middle of many iron mills, stands a famous structure called <i>Simbaœ</i>, built square like a castle with hewn stone, but the height is not answerable. Above
the gate appears an inscription which cannot be read or understood, nor could any
that have seen it know what people used such letters.… The inhabitants report it the
work of the devil, themselves only building in wood, and aver that for strength it
exceeds the fort of the Portuguese at the seashore, about 150 miles from hence.’
</p>
<p>We could quote several other allusions to the ruins from Portuguese, Dutch, and English
sources, copied one from the other, and all bearing the stamp of having come from
the same fountain-head, namely, the Arabians, who told the Portuguese about them when
they first arrived at Sofala. Our examination of the ruins confirms this in every
respect. In our excavations we found Celadon pottery, Persian pottery, and Arabian
glass, similar to the things found at Quiloa, where the Arabs also had a settlement.
These objects represent the trading goods brought by the Arabians and exchanged with
the inhabitants who lived in and around these ruins in the middle ages; but at the
same time we found no trace whatsoever of the Portuguese, which would have been the
case, as in other places occupied by them in Arabia and the Persian Gulf, had they
ever been there. From these facts I think it is certain that we may remove from the
Portuguese the honour claimed by them of being the modern discoverers of the ruins,
<span class="pageNum" id="pb242">[<a href="#pb242">242</a>]</span>an honour only claimed in the face of recent events, for De Barros is candid enough
in telling us that his information came ‘from the Arabs who were there.’ Clearly to
settle this question it is only necessary to quote a letter which I saw in the library
at Lisbon, dated April 17, 1721, from the Governor of Goa, Antonio Rodrigue da Costa,
to the king. East Africa was included then in the province of India, and the governor
wrote as follows:—
</p>
<p>‘(1) There is a report that in the interior of these countries many affirm there is
in the court of the Monomatapa a tower or edifice of worked masonry which appears
evidently not to be the work of black natives of the country, but of some powerful
and political nations such as the Greeks, Romans, Persians, Egyptians, or Hebrews;
and they say that this tower or edifice is called by the natives Simbabóe, and that
in it is an inscription of unknown letters, and because there is much foundation for
the belief that this land is Ophir, and that Solomon sent his fleets in company with
the Phœnicians; and this opinion could be indubitably established if this inscription
could be cleared up, and there is no one there who can read it. If it were in Greek,
Persian, or Hebrew, it would be necessary to command that an impression be made in
wax or some other material which retains letters or figures, commanding that the original
inscription be well cleaned.
</p>
<p>‘(2) At the same time it would be suitable to examine whether in that land is a range
of mountains <span class="pageNum" id="pb243">[<a href="#pb243">243</a>]</span>called Ofura, what distance it is from the coast or seaport, and whether it contains
mines of gold or silver.
</p>
<p>‘(3) In the same way it would be as well to inquire into the most notable names of
those parts, mountains, chiefdoms, and rivers.
</p>
<p>‘(4) To learn if the lands of Sofala are high or low, or marshy, or if they have any
mountain ranges.’
</p>
<p>Hence it will be seen that, even as late as 1721, it was only rumoured that there
were ruins, and that the Portuguese sphere of influence went very little inland. Needless
to say, the expedition was never sent, and that the reports were of the vaguest and
most contradictory character. Bocarro and Corvo both testify to the fact<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3616src" href="#xd31e3616">7</a> that the Portuguese, after the disastrous campaigns of Baretto, advanced but little
into the country, and were confined almost exclusively to the littoral. Taking the
map of this district, and looking at the spelling of the names, it is easy to see
how far Portuguese influence extended. They spell the common prefix <i>Inya</i> with an <i>h</i> instead of a <i>y</i>: for example, they write it Inhambane. Also they spell the name Gungunyama, Gungunhama;
other nations spell such names with a <i>y</i>, for example, Inyagowe. Hence the <i>h</i> for <i>y</i> clearly marks the Portuguese sphere of influence.
</p>
<p>These reports of an Eldorado northwards continued, and produced periodical excitements
amongst <span class="pageNum" id="pb244">[<a href="#pb244">244</a>]</span>the young colonists of South Africa. The Boers were everlastingly getting up <i>treks</i> with a view to reach it; the vague mystery about King Solomon’s mines existing there,
and the palace of the Queen of Sheba, whetted their appetites when they heard these
rumours; but still nothing was definitely done until a German traveller of more than
ordinary energy penetrated as far as the Zimbabwe ruins in the year 1871. This man
was Karl Mauch: he examined them carefully and wrote an accurate account of them,
but, unfortunately, he ventured on a speculation as to their origin which at once
cast discredit on his discoveries in the eyes of unbelieving archæologists. He maintained
that the fortress on the hill was a copy of King Solomon’s temple on Mount Moriah,
that the lower ruins were a copy of the palace which the Queen of Sheba inhabited
during her stay of several years in Jerusalem, and that the trees in the middle of
it were undoubtedly almug trees.
</p>
<p>The result of this was that the subject of Zimbabwe ruins was in abeyance for nearly
twenty years after Mauch’s visit, and was rather accredited as a traveller’s tale
until the British Chartered Company took possession of the country and enabled research
to be satisfactorily made. Nevertheless to Karl Mauch is distinctly due the honour
of being the first to investigate the ruins in modern times.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb245">[<a href="#pb245">245</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3472">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3472src">1</a></span> Ezek. xxvii. 21, 22.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3472src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3540">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3540src">2</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#ch3">Chap. III</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3540src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3551">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3551src">3</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#ch11">Chap. XI</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3551src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3560">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3560src">4</a></span> <a href="#ch2">Chap. II</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3560src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3571">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3571src">5</a></span> De Barros, <i lang="pt">De Asiâ</i>. Lisbon, 1552.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3571src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3586">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3586src">6</a></span> According to Ptolemy, the Romans penetrated from the north through the heart of Africa
to a nation called Agizymba, south of the equator.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3586src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3616">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3616src">7</a></span> <a href="#ch9">Chap. IX</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3616src" title="Return to note 7 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div0 last-child part">
<h2 class="label">PART III</h2>
<h2 class="main">EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND</h2>
<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb247">[<a href="#pb247">247</a>]</span></p>
<div id="ch8" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e462">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER VIII</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>DOWN TO THE SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">It was the report of extensive ruins, ‘larger,’ said a native, ‘than those of Zimbabwe,’
which induced us to make an expedition involving considerable hardships and unknown
risks down in the direction of the Sabi River. Our waggons, of course, could not go,
as our way would be by the narrow native paths. Previous experience had warned us
against depending on the native huts, so for the transport of our tents, bedding,
and provisions we had to make considerable preparations.
</p>
<p>At Fort Victoria we borrowed seven donkeys from the Chartered Company, and we engaged
a few natives of reputed respectability under the command of a man called Mashah,
quite the most brilliant specimen of the Makalanga race we came across during our
sojourn in the country. He, his father and his mother and his wife, a sister of our
old friend Umgabe, had been captured some years ago by the Matabele and spent several
years in servitude, during which time he had learnt the Zulu tongue and the <span class="pageNum" id="pb248">[<a href="#pb248">248</a>]</span>more energetic habits of this stronger race. Eventually, after the death of his father
and mother, he and his wife had escaped and returned to Umgabe’s kraal, and on the
arrival of the Chartered Company’s pioneer force Mashah placed his services at their
disposal. He greatly distinguished himself by saving the lives of a band of the pioneers
when on a wild prospecting trip, for which service he received a present of a Martini-Henry
rifle, of which he was naturally very proud.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p249width" id="p249"><img src="images/p249.jpg" alt="METZWANDIRA" width="553" height="720"><p class="figureHead">METZWANDIRA</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Mashah’s Makalanga brethren call him ‘the white man’s slave,’ from his devotion to
the new race, and he constantly affirmed that if ever the white man left this country
he would go with them, for he was heartily sick of the petty jealousies and constant
squabbles of his countrymen. He was a strange object to look upon with his tawny B.S.A.
hat with an ostrich feather in it, his shirt with a girdle round his waist, and bare
legs. He never once grumbled at anything he had to do, he was never tired, and kept
our other Kaffirs in excellent order. As for the rest of them, they were as naked
as God made them, save for the insignificant loin-cloth. A man called Metzwandira
was told off as our body-servant, to wash the cups and plates and spoons, which latter
treasures he counted carefully over to us after every meal. We got greatly attached
to this individual, his manners were so gentle and courteous and his voice so soft
and silvery. One and all of them were delighted to become possessed of our rejected
milk tins, &amp;c., with which <span class="pageNum" id="pb251">[<a href="#pb251">251</a>]</span>they made bracelets, seven inches wide, by cutting off the two ends of the tin and
drilling holes along the edge. One man tied the lid of a ‘bully beef’ tin round his
neck, another fastened the round bottom of a milk tin in a jaunty fashion on to his
black hair. Every tin we opened and finished was eagerly picked up by our followers
and carried in net bags all the way, with a view to making some object of ornament
out of them. Even when given an old pair of boots, the recipient only took out the
brass hooks and eyes to fasten as ornaments in his loin-cloth, and cast the rest away.
</p>
<p>On leaving Fort Victoria we followed the Chartered Company’s road for forty miles
northwards with our waggons to Makori post station. One day we were encamped near
the two large villages of Umfanipatza and Sibibabira built on two rocks, but now,
with the confidence inspired by the presence of the Chartered Company, the inhabitants
are beginning to build huts on the flat space around. We paid a visit to them both,
and admired the tall euphorbia which grew in them and the rich entanglement of begonia
and other creepers then in flower. In one hut we found a man weaving a bark blanket
very neatly with no loom, only platting it with his fingers. It was done with a kind
of pink twine made of some bark.
</p>
<p>At Makori post station, under the shade of wide-spreading trees, and in close proximity
to some fantastic granite rocks, which rose like gigantic <span class="pageNum" id="pb252">[<a href="#pb252">252</a>]</span>menhirs out of the plain and were covered with an almost scarlet lichen, we passed
several busy days, preparing cruppers, girths, and breast-bands for our seven pack-donkeys;
bags for our coffee, sugar, and tea; cobbling our boots and overhauling our clothes,
and nursing four fever patients, for there had been two days of chilly drizzling rain,
the inevitable result of which was fever for some of our party. The post station lay
about one mile from our camping-ground; the two huts where the B.S.A. men lived were
situated on a rocky <i>kopje</i> full of caves, in one of which their horse was stabled, and from the top of the rock
an extensive view was gained over the high plateau, well wooded just here and studded
with rocks of fantastic shape. Here and there thick volumes of smoke rose from the
grass fires common all over the country at this season of the year, which looked for
all the world like distant manufacturing towns, and suggested the comparison of a
view from a spur of the Derbyshire hills over the plain of Cheshire, with Stockport,
Manchester, and other centres of industry belching forth their dense volumes of smoke.
</p>
<p>On August 14 we started on our journey. It was a lovely morning, and our progress
was very slow, for our cavalcade was so heterogeneous—my wife and I on horseback,
Messrs. Swan and King with a horse between them, three white men to look after the
donkeys, and Mashah and his Makalangas to carry what the donkeys could not. We straggled
terribly at first, for the donkeys were obstinate and their pack-saddles <span class="pageNum" id="pb253">[<a href="#pb253">253</a>]</span>unsteady, the natives were fresh and anxious to get along, so we had to call for frequent
halts to readjust ourselves, which gave us ample opportunity for looking around. The
country here is sown broadcast with strange granite rocks; one group had formed themselves
into an extraordinary doorway, two columns on either side about sixty feet high, with
a gigantic boulder resting on the top of them for the lintel. Like the structures
of a giant race, these strange rocks rise out of the thick vegetation in all directions.
Presently, as we were experiencing some little difficulty in getting our raw cavalcade
across a stream, a Makalanga joined us who had been born without hands. To his left
stump had been attached, by means of a leather thong, the claw of a bird; with the
assistance of this he ate some food we gave him with marvellous dexterity, and fired
his gun. He was a bright cheery individual, evidently greatly respected by his more
gifted comrades.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p253-1width" id="p253-1"><img src="images/p253-1.jpg" alt="CHIEF’S IRON SCEPTRE" width="31" height="569"><p class="figureHead">CHIEF’S IRON SCEPTRE</p>
<p class="first">3½ FEET LONG </p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p253-2width" id="p253-2"><img src="images/p253-2.jpg" alt="IRON RAZOR" width="80" height="415"><p class="figureHead">IRON RAZOR</p>
<p class="first">4 INCHES LONG </p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb254">[<a href="#pb254">254</a>]</span> </p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p254width"><img src="images/p254.jpg" alt="ROCK NEAR MAKORI POST STATION" width="542" height="383"><p class="figureHead">ROCK NEAR MAKORI POST STATION</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We only accomplished seven miles this first day, owing to the difficulties of progression,
and in the afternoon found ourselves encamped by a wretched village called Chekatu.
Here they had no cattle and no milk to sell us owing to Matabele raids. The chief,
Matzaire by name, came to visit us with his iron sceptre in his hand, which made us
think of the rods of iron with which certain Israelitish kings are stated to have
ruled. We climbed amongst the huts before sundown and came across an old hag busily
engaged in shaving the heads of her younger sisters, cutting their woolly locks into
all sorts of odd shapes as fancy or fashion suggested. She refused our most <span class="pageNum" id="pb255">[<a href="#pb255">255</a>]</span>tempting offers to part with her razor, and it was not till some time afterwards that
we were able to obtain a specimen of this Makalanga ironcraft.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p255width" id="p255"><img src="images/p255.jpg" alt="KNITTED BAG" width="251" height="566"><p class="figureHead">KNITTED BAG</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Next day we crossed two rivers, tributaries of the Tokwe, and after a prosperous ride
of ten miles reached Sindito’s kraal, called Sekatu, the inhabitants of which took
us for a Matabele <i>impi</i>, and would not come down till Mashah had screamed to them that we were no rogues,
but honest men. We gave the chief a cup of tea, which he detested, and as soon as
politeness permitted he said he had had enough. He returned the compliment by giving
us a calabash of good beer, which we drank with pleasure. Sekatu was rather a nice
village, on a hill covered with thick jungle, amongst which grew in profusion cucumbers,
about six inches long, of a rich orange colour, with thorns outside and with a delicious
bright green pulp inside. They are the <i lang="la">Cucumis metuliferus</i>, specimens <span class="pageNum" id="pb256">[<a href="#pb256">256</a>]</span>of which may be seen in the museum at Kew Gardens. We had seen these before, and looked
upon them as poisonous, until our natives partook of them and gave us confidence.
Ever afterwards, as long as they were in season, we indulged freely in this delicious
fruit, and voted it the best we had come across in Mashonaland.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p256width" id="p256"><img src="images/p256.png" alt="LARDER TREE" width="389" height="416"><p class="figureHead">LARDER TREE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p257width" id="p257"><img src="images/p257.jpg" alt="REED SNUFF-BOXES AND GREASE-HOLDER" width="402" height="568"><p class="figureHead">REED SNUFF-BOXES AND GREASE-HOLDER</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The next day we halted for half an hour at a village called Imiridzi, where we acquired
a bag of bark fibre, made by knitting the twine with two sticks for knitting-needles.
These articles seemed very popular in this village, and nearly everyone was engaged
<span class="pageNum" id="pb257">[<a href="#pb257">257</a>]</span>in their production. Midday found us at a very large kraal, the chief place in the
dominions of a powerful Makalanga chief called Gutu. Gona is the name of the kraal,
and it is completely buried between two high granite <i>kopjes</i>. At the entrance to it some tall trees are completely hung with provisions packed
<span class="pageNum" id="pb258">[<a href="#pb258">258</a>]</span>away in their long sausage-like bundles—bags of locusts, caterpillars, sweet potatoes,
and other delicacies. These trees we henceforth called ‘larder trees,’ and found them
at nearly every village. The inhabitants of Gona were unusually rich in savage ornaments,
and we annexed many snuff-boxes, knives, and other oddments. The chief was unfortunately
away, but his representative brought us fine pots of beer and milk, and we made a
hearty meal despite the dense and rather unsavoury mass of natives which surrounded
us during its consumption. They have a plentiful growth of tobacco plants near Gutu’s
kraal, and large fields of rice, in which the women were just then busily engaged
in making the broad furrows; they have very prettily carved doors to their huts, and
many of the men wear sandals on their feet. Altogether Gona struck us as one of the
most prosperous kraals we had seen in the country.
</p>
<p>As we journeyed eastwards the appearance of the people was certainly wilder. We here
saw their heads decorated with curious erections of woven grass, fastened into their
hair and reaching an elevation of a foot, like miniature Eiffel towers on their heads;<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3731src" href="#xd31e3731">1</a> and at a village called Muchienda we acquired two quaint-shaped straw hats with ostrich
feathers sticking in the top, quite different to anything we had seen elsewhere. As
we approached this village a long string of natives passed us on their way to hunt;
on their heads they carried bark cases full of nets, <span class="pageNum" id="pb259">[<a href="#pb259">259</a>]</span>which they stretch across the valleys and drive the game into them. Muchienda was
a lovely village by a rushing stream full of rocks, which formed a little waterfall;
the stream was shaded by magnificent timber, and a background of lovely mountains
made us think Muchienda an ideal spot, at which we would willingly have tarried longer.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p259width" id="p259"><img src="images/p259.png" alt="DECORATED HUT DOOR" width="280" height="291"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED HUT DOOR</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Every day, as we approached the Sabi Valley, the scenery became grander; the dreary
high plateau gave place to deep valleys and high rugged mountains; the vegetation
was much more luxuriant and the atmosphere many degrees hotter, so hot that during
our midday halts we did not care to wander very far from our camp, especially as we
had a good deal of manual labour to perform apart from the actual travelling, in tent
pitching, bed making, and cooking, for our white men were generally so tired with
driving and packing the donkeys that we could not ask them to do anything after the
march was over.
</p>
<p>We soon got accustomed to sleeping on the ground. When it was unusually rugged, for
the <span class="pageNum" id="pb260">[<a href="#pb260">260</a>]</span>grass grows here in tufts like the hair on the niggers’ heads, we got grass cut on
which to lay our rugs; occasionally we found it necessary to encamp on spots over
which a grass fire had passed, and then we got hopelessly black, and lived like sweeps
until we reached a stream, where we could wash ourselves and our clothes.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p260width" id="p260"><img src="images/p260.jpg" alt="STRAW HAT" width="349" height="568"><p class="figureHead">STRAW HAT</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb261">[<a href="#pb261">261</a>]</span></p>
<p>Lutilo, with the village of Luti perched upon one of its lower precipices, is quite
a grand mountain, almost Alpine in character, with exquisite views over the distant
Sabi and Manica Mountains. Here we tarried for almost a whole day to visit an insignificant
set of ruins a few miles distant, called Metemo, but which formed a link in the great
chain of forts stretching northwards. It had been built in three circles of very rough
stone, somewhat ingeniously put together on the top of a rounded granite hill, but
hopelessly ruined. So we only tarried there a while to make a plan, and to rest, and
enjoy the lovely view.
</p>
<p>The country around here is very thickly wooded, and on our return to our camp a herd
of deer passed close to us, a species known to the Dutch as <i lang="af">Swartvit-pens</i>, or ‘swarthy white paunches,’ but we failed to get one, a matter of considerable
regret from a commissariat point of view, for meat is scarce in the villages about
here, and our tinned supplies were getting low.
</p>
<p>We struck our camp at Lutilo rather late in the afternoon, and only got as far as
a river called the ’Nyatzetse, the crossing of which involved the unloading of our
animals. On the way we passed through two villages, where the inhabitants were busily
engaged in building huts, for it was evidently a new encampment, and in making beer,
which was too new to drink; the land around was being freshly turned up for their
fields, after the approved Makalanga <span class="pageNum" id="pb262">[<a href="#pb262">262</a>]</span>fashion. First they clear a space of jungle, leaving the larger trees, and pile up
the brushwood round the roots, then they set fire to the heaps, and when it is consumed
the tree is killed, and more easy to cut down.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p262width" id="p262"><img src="images/p262.png" alt="DECORATED HEADS" width="546" height="298"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED HEADS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The next day brought us at a very early hour to the site of the Matindela ruins, which
was to be our halting-place for a few days. The ruins certainly are fine, but far
inferior to those of Zimbabwe; they are perched on the top of a bare granite rock
about 150 feet high, a most admirable strategical position.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3771src" href="#xd31e3771">2</a> In the centre of them we pitched our tents for our welcome halt of three days, and
made ourselves as comfortable as rain would permit, for it fell in torrents here even
though it was the dry season. The <span class="pageNum" id="pb263">[<a href="#pb263">263</a>]</span>term ‘Matindela’ means ‘guinea-fowl,’ quantities of which birds are found around here,
as indeed they are in most parts of this country.
</p>
<p>We were now only twenty miles from the Sabi River, and the country around was almost
deserted, ruined villages crowned most of the heights, and the deserted fields and
devastation in every direction were lamentable to behold. There were evidences, too,
of a fairly recent raid, in which the poor Makalangas had been driven out of their
homes and probably carried into slavery. By common consent the two great Zulu chiefs,
Lobengula and Gungunyana, whose embassy visited England last year, consider the Sabi
as their respective boundary for marauding expeditions. On this occasion I believe
Gungunyana and his Shangans were to blame, who, finding that Lobengula was cut off
by the Chartered Company from this part of his district, had made bold to cross the
Sabi and raid on the western side, bringing destruction into the Makalanga homes,
which in former years had here been thought very secure, being, as they were, far
from Lobengula and just out of Gungunyana’s recognised district.
</p>
<p>The Makalangas have the greatest horror of the Shangans, who dwell across the Sabi,
and do Gungunyana’s bidding. One day at Matindela we brought home a specimen of a
curious fruit which hangs from the trees, eighteen inches to two feet long, like thick
German sausages; it has beans inside, and we asked Mashah if it was good to eat: ‘No
Makalangas eat <span class="pageNum" id="pb264">[<a href="#pb264">264</a>]</span><i>umvebe</i>,’ as he called it, ‘only the Shangans and baboons.’
</p>
<p>Whilst at Matindela we sampled several kinds of strange fruit: firstly the Kaffir
orange, a kind of strychnia, which is a hard fruit with yellow pulp inside around
seeds, and of which every traveller should beware of eating if not quite ripe—an error
into which several of our party fell; it is apt to produce violent sickness under
those conditions, and at best it is painfully astringent, causing horrible facial
contortions when you eat it, as most of the fruits about here do. Amongst other things,
they brought to our camp at Matindela large quantities of the delicious cucumbers,
monkey-nuts, sweet potatoes, and a sweet fruit which you chew and spit out like sugar-cane,
which they call <i>matoko</i>. From the gigantic trees around us, the far-famed baobab trees, we gathered the nuts
with the refreshing cream of tartar pulp inside. The baobab is the great feature of
Matindela Hill; there are a dozen of them on it, huge giants, which in their growth
have knocked down large portions of the walls. Though probably these trees are not
as old as report says, nevertheless their presence here proves that these ruins have
been utterly abandoned for many centuries. It is another problem to prove how their
thick roots find sustenance for so huge a vegetable growth, perched as they are on
an almost soil-less granite rock. Doubtless these roots follow the fissures in the
granite and obtain the required moisture from some considerable <span class="pageNum" id="pb265">[<a href="#pb265">265</a>]</span>distance. The effect, however, is exceedingly odd to see these colossal trees growing
in no depth of soil on the top of a granite rock.
</p>
<p>I had always been sceptical about the honey-bird until its virtues were properly proved
to us when at Matindela. An insignificant little bird, with a significant chirp, led
our men over rocks and through jungle till they actually found honey, so that we could
no longer indulge in doubts as to this mysterious gift, which, like the water-finding
divining rods, I will leave to others to explain.
</p>
<p>Traces of recent life around Matindela were numerous: the valleys had all at one time
been ploughed: ruined huts, constructed high up in the trees, had served as outlooks
for the agriculturists, bark beehives were in the trees, but the villages were all
blackened and burnt, the granaries knocked down and the inhabitants gone, no one knows
where. Never during any camp of lengthened duration were we visited by so few natives
as at Matindela. About here game is very plentiful; we sighted fresh elephant and
giraffe ‘<i>spoor</i>,’ and we personally made the acquaintance of zebras, kudu, and other kinds of antelope.
Across the valley below was an old and now disused stockade for catching game, and
hunting-parties in this locality have been numerous. These parties are arranged by
the Makalangas on a small or large scale; sometimes, when they have an elaborate system
of stockades, they just drive the game towards a <i>cul de sac</i> or a narrow gap where <span class="pageNum" id="pb266">[<a href="#pb266">266</a>]</span>men are hidden in the grass; sometimes they have great parties forming two half-moons;
one of these stations itself behind a <i>kopje</i>, whilst the other, with dogs and shouting, drives the game to them.
</p>
<p>Their game laws give rise to frequent squabbles amongst the chiefs; it is generally
understood that, if a man wounds a buck and another kills it, the wounder claims the
carcass, but the killer is entitled to take whichever limb he wishes. There is a tribe
near Zimbabwe who will not eat a buck unless it has had its throat cut, and so they
endeavour first to wound it, and then proceed to cut its throat. For small buck, hares,
&amp;c., they make traps across the narrow paths with a beam which falls when the animal
treads on the plank below, being fixed on the path between two sloping rows of stakes.
</p>
<p>Our course from Matindela was north-east—not the most direct route to the Sabi, which
is only about twenty miles due east, but we had nobody with us who knew the way, and
we had to go to a village for a guide. After a ride of seven miles we reached a curious
lofty mountain called Chiburwe, close on 1,000 feet above the plain; it is almost
round, and its flanks are decorated with huge granite boulders rising out of euphorbia,
baobabs, and rank tropical vegetation. On the side we first reached this mountain
the vegetation was too dense to allow us to ascend, so we had to ride to the northern
side and go up by a slippery slope of black granite, the ordinary approach used by
the natives, whose bare feet cling readily to the rocks, <span class="pageNum" id="pb267">[<a href="#pb267">267</a>]</span>but which was horrible for feet encased in European boots. The summit is flat and
grassy like a Brighton down, being covered with a soft small stagshorn moss, delightful
to lie upon. This spot is the happy play-ground of two native villages, which are
placed on either side of the mountain; here they are sublimely safe and free from
the raids of their enemies, and Chiburwe forms a sort of Makalanga outpost in the
direction of the Sabi. Amongst other names mentioned by Portuguese writers which are
still retained in the locality we find Chiburga as a stronghold, where the Monomatapa’s
wives were kept. I think it highly probable that this is the spot. On the summit we
found several sets of holes for the Isafuba game, and the inhabitants we came across
seemed more than usually timid. Our view was indescribably lovely, with Lutilo and
the spots we knew well behind us, and the mysterious blue mountains of Manica before
us.
</p>
<p>In a rocky crevice we found one of the miserable villages of Chiburwe, with no beer,
no milk, no fowls and no eggs to be had; it appeared to be solely inhabited by two
women grinding millet, who were much afraid of us, and retired into the darkest recesses
of their huts. Their ingenuity in utilising bark is exemplified up here, where mud
is scarce, for they make their granaries of the bark of the baobab, only covering
the edges with mud, and binding them round with withes.
</p>
<p>For two days after leaving Chiburwe we wandered <span class="pageNum" id="pb268">[<a href="#pb268">268</a>]</span>through trackless forests, guided only by a notion of the direction we wished to go,
for we could not annex a native guide. A mile or two from Chiburwe we found a ruined
fort of the best period of Zimbabwe work, with courses of great regularity, but much
of the wall had been knocked down by the baobab trees which had grown up in it. Nobody
could give us a name for this ruin in the wilderness, so we called it Chiburwe, measured
it, took notes on it, and rode on.
</p>
<p>The forest scenery was grand and impressive in its solitude; sometimes we had great
difficulty in getting our animals through the thick undergrowth; the trees were rich
in colour, red and light green, equal to any of our autumnal tints, out of which now
and again rose granite boulders. The crossing of the River Mwairari, a fine tributary
of the Sabi, gave us a little trouble; it has a fine volume of water with occasional
rapids, waterfalls, and high rocks, and we had to follow its right bank for several
miles before we could get our animals across; the river bed was luxuriant in tall
pampas grass and patches of papyrus.
</p>
<p>On the second afternoon after leaving Chiburwe we sighted the Sabi River, having gone
miles out of our way; it is a really magnificent stream even here so far inland, and
is navigable now for canoes very little below where we struck it. In ancient times
it must have been navigable for larger craft, for all African rivers are silting up.
There is little doubt but that the ancient builders of the ruins in Mashonaland, <span class="pageNum" id="pb269">[<a href="#pb269">269</a>]</span>the forts and towns between the Zambesi and the Limpopo, utilised this stream as their
road to and from the coast; and as the country again is opened out it may still be
found useful as a waterway for small craft. Where we struck the Sabi it is a rapid
river, flowing through a gorge and with a rocky bed; there are no marshes here, but
fertile-looking slopes leading down to it, which appeared to us to promise well for
the future agriculturists who settle on its banks, though the rainfall, which takes
place only in summer, and for the space of only four months, will be a drawback to
cereals. Now these slopes are entirely deserted, and about here we saw no villages,
nor natives, nor paths, for days, doubtless owing to the raids of Gungunyana and his
Shangans from across the stream. There is no doubt about it, the world is not full
yet. In Mashonaland there exist tens of thousands of acres of fertile land entirely
unoccupied. Thanks probably to the Matabele raids, the population is here exceedingly
scanty, and when one travels through the long-deserted stretches of country, healthy,
well watered, and capable of growing anything, which still exist between the Zambesi
and the Limpopo, one cannot help thinking that those who complain of the world being
too full, and that there is no opening for colonisation, are a century or two before
their time.
</p>
<p>Everybody revelled in the waters of the Sabi that evening—bathing and washing clothes
occupied most of our time until it was dark; but, alas, our camp was <span class="pageNum" id="pb270">[<a href="#pb270">270</a>]</span>pitched on ground over which a grass fire had passed, and the good effects of our
Sabi wash were more than obliterated. We again plunged into the trackless wilderness,
and it was not till the second day after leaving the river that we once more joyfully
found ourselves in a native path leading in the direction which we ought to go; but
we followed it for over thirty miles before we came across a village. This was called
Zamopera, on the banks of a pleasant stream. We were so pleased to see people again
and to have a chance of replenishing our stock of provisions that we tarried there
for the best part of a day, and pitched our camp beneath the shadow of a friendly
rock. Crowds of men and women from Zamopera came to visit us; wild-looking people
they were—the men with long matted hair hanging like a fringe over their faces, and
hung with beads and cowrie-shells, whilst the women here cut off all their hair except
a circle in the middle, which is short and threaded with beads in seven rows, four
of white outside and three of red in the centre, looking exactly like round bead mats
on the top of their heads. We were now in the country of another great Makalanga chief,
called Gambidji, whose kraal, perched on a lofty rock, we sighted in the distance,
but had not time to visit.
</p>
<p>In the villages about here, which are numerous and flourishing, we saw many curious
objects, some of which we acquired, others we could not strike a bargain for: a native
razor, bone dollasses, and quaint-shaped battle-axes were added to our collection.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb271">[<a href="#pb271">271</a>]</span>Mafusaire’s village is perched amongst odd-shaped boulders, fantastic as the rocks
in Dovedale, ever varying in form. The inhabitants were a very friendly lot, and were
almost beside themselves with delight when my wife took down her hair and showed them
its length. They greatly prized a gift of a few of these long hairs, which they will
doubtless keep as a memento of the first white lady who ever came amongst them.
</p>
<p>The fear of the Makalanga of horses is most curious; even our own men would not touch
them, and the villagers were quite awestruck when we mounted. They generally followed
us in crowds for a little distance from the village, and screamed with delight when
we trotted, scampering and capering by our sides.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p271width" id="p271"><img src="images/p271.png" alt="CHIEF’S TOMB" width="270" height="266"><p class="figureHead">CHIEF’S TOMB</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We passed by the tomb of a chief on the afternoon after leaving Mafusaire’s; it consisted
of a mound with a circular construction of stones on the top of it, over which is
a thatched roof standing on posts; on the top of the stones stood a pot, in which
beer is periodically put, for the delectation of the deceased.
</p>
<p>We were now in the immediate neighbourhood <span class="pageNum" id="pb272">[<a href="#pb272">272</a>]</span>of Mount Wedza, the highest point in Mashonaland, with an elevation of over 6,000
feet above sea level. It is for the most part a dark forest-clad ridge, and it is
from here that the natives of Gambidji’s country get the iron ore which they smelt
in their furnaces and convert into tools and weapons. The villages in this district
are entirely given up to the smelting business, and outside the kraals usually are
erected two or more furnaces. They are still in the Stone Age here, using for anvils
and hammers pieces of hard diorite. One of these villages where we halted for a while
was, to our astonishment, called Smet. Not believing our ears, we asked again and
again, and got the same reply. The only solution to this strange nomenclature seems
to be, that they either got the name from some Dutch trader or from some enterprising
Makalanga who had been down to work in the Kimberley mines. For long these natives
have been in the habit of doing this, tramping all the way from the Zambesi to the
diamond-fields, and not returning thence until they have acquired enough wealth to
buy a wife or two and settle themselves in life.
</p>
<p>A man from Smet, who was going to ’Mtigeza’s kraal, volunteered to act as our guide.
He carried with him three large iron hoes which he had made, and for which he expected
to get a goat at the kraal. Gambidji’s country is very extensive, extending nominally
from the Sabi to a ridge which we crossed before reaching ’Mtigeza’s, and most of
the iron-smelting villages recognise his sovereignty.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb273">[<a href="#pb273">273</a>]</span></p>
<p>Two chiefs of the name of ’Mtigeza live around Mount Wedza, both claiming to be the
descendants of the old ’Mtigeza stock. Our ’Mtigeza was a queer little old man, almost
in his dotage, but considered very powerful by his neighbours, and this was evidenced
by the villages being more in the open, and not seeking protection from rocky heights.
His fortress is a curious one, situated on an extensive plateau 4,800 feet above the
sea level, with disjointed low masses of rocks dotted about. Around the central mass
of rocks is ’Mtigeza’s head kraal, surrounded by palisades, and the rock itself is
strongly fortified, with all the approaches walled up, and for us Europeans it was
by no means easy to reach the summit by means of holes through which we could hardly
squeeze, and slits in the rock through which we could only pass sideways. On the top
is a circular fort built of rough stones and mortar, and the boast of the people here
is that the Matabele have never been able to take their stronghold. From the fort
we had a good bird’s-eye view over ’Mtigeza’s realm; there are a number of encircling
villages built on similar masses of rock, about half a mile or more distant. These
are governed by the old man’s sons.
</p>
<p>We sent the old chief a blanket, and he presently came to pay us a visit. According
to our custom, we showed him our things, in which he did not manifest much interest
until my wife produced a burning-glass, and showed off its wonderful fire-producing
qualities on his skin. Then in a weak little voice the old chief <span class="pageNum" id="pb274">[<a href="#pb274">274</a>]</span>murmured, ‘I, ’Mtigeza, want it,’ and she promptly presented it to him, also a little
salt. As we lunched he sat and watched us, but would partake of nothing we offered
him, until we threw some well-picked chicken bones to our men; these he coveted and
got.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p274width" id="p274"><img src="images/p274.jpg" alt="INTERIOR OF A HUT" width="535" height="400"><p class="figureHead">INTERIOR OF A HUT</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>’Mtigeza held an <i>indaba</i> or palaver of his <i>inaunas</i> in a shady nook before his kraal, the result of which was that a goat was to be presented
to us by quite a lengthy process. First of all it was presented to Mashah, who humbly
received it with hat off and head bowed, making all the necessary compliments for
us. Mashah then presented it to our white <span class="pageNum" id="pb275">[<a href="#pb275">275</a>]</span>men, and they finally presented it to us, and it formed a valuable addition to our
larder.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p275width" id="p275"><img src="images/p275.png" alt="HOUSEHOLD STORE FOR GRAIN, WITH NATIVE DRAWINGS" width="311" height="521"><p class="figureHead">HOUSEHOLD STORE FOR GRAIN, WITH NATIVE DRAWINGS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We were surprised to find little evidence of wealth in ’Mtigeza’s kraal. Their knives
and snuff-boxes were decidedly inferior in workmanship to those we had seen elsewhere,
and this we found as we travelled on to be invariably the case where the Matabele
or Zulu influence has been least felt. The Zulu is the most ingenious of the Abantu
races, and has imparted his ingenuity to the Makalanga, over whom he has raided and
many of whom have been his slaves.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p276width" id="p276"><img src="images/p276.png" alt="NATIVE DRAWINGS" width="451" height="346"><p class="figureHead">NATIVE DRAWINGS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>There were two as yet roofless but substantial huts being built in the kraal entirely
of mud, which is a new departure for the Makalanga. The insides of these were decorated
with squares of black and white, like those one sees in Bechuanaland. Undoubtedly
<span class="pageNum" id="pb276">[<a href="#pb276">276</a>]</span>foreign influence is being felt here from its proximity to Fort Charter, and very
soon the architectural features of Makalangaland will change with the rapidity that
all things change in Kaffirdom. Inside the huts were big household granaries for the
domestic stores, also made of mud and decorated curiously with rims, and rude paintings
in white of deer, birds, and men. One represents a waggon with a span of six oxen
and a man driving it. The artistic skill is, of course, of a low order, but it shows
the influence of the Morunko, or white man, and how his approach has been the theme
of their wonder and excited their imagination. I doubt not but those who follow after
us will find attempts made to illustrate on their granaries <span class="pageNum" id="pb277">[<a href="#pb277">277</a>]</span>a Morunko lady with long flowing hair trotting on that strange animal, the horse.
</p>
<p>’Mtigeza and his kraal pleased us so much that we did not leave till quite late in
the afternoon. We passed through quantities of rice-fields, which spoke of prosperity;
and this Makalanga rice is truly excellent, being larger, more glutinous, and of a
pinker hue than our Indian rice, which to our minds tasted very insipid after it.
It was almost dark when we reached Matimbi’s kraal, and pitched our tents close to
the tomb of another chief. Matimbi came down to see us; he is the handsomest of all
the chiefs we had yet seen, with quite a European-shaped face, long hair and long
beard, both rarities in this country, and a splendid knife, carved and decorated with
brass wire, which we coveted but could not obtain.
</p>
<p>On the following day, September 2, a long ride brought us to Fort Charter and our
waggons in time for our midday meal. Thoroughly did we enjoy our tables, our chairs,
and our waggon-beds after nearly three weeks’ intimate acquaintance with mother earth.
Until the experience of greater privations farther north came upon us, we thought
we enjoyed the food, the soup, the bully beef, the bread, and the jam which our cook
placed before our hungry eyes to the utmost extent that man could do.
</p>
<p>Here we regretfully parted with our friend Mashah and most of our Makalangas; two
only of enterprising mind elected to follow us and earn more blankets, and they served
us with unswerving fidelity <span class="pageNum" id="pb278">[<a href="#pb278">278</a>]</span>till we reached the coast at Beira. Mashanani was the name of one of them, whose only
fault was a too great attachment to Kaffir beer; Iguzu was the name of the other,
the most industrious man I ever saw. When not working for us, he would sit on a rock
for ever patching a ragged old shirt that had been presented to him, until there was
little of the original fabric left, or else turning old jam tins into ornaments or
threading beads.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb279">[<a href="#pb279">279</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3731">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3731src">1</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, p. <a href="#pb262" class="pageref">262</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3731src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3771">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3771src">2</a></span> For description of ruins, <i>vide</i> <a href="#ch4">Chap. IV</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3771src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch9" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e473">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER IX</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>FORT SALISBURY AND THE OLD WORKINGS AND RUINS OF THE MAZOE VALLEY</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">A few remarks on the future capital of the Mashonaland gold-fields may not be amiss,
by way of sharp contrast, in a work more especially devoted to the study of the past.
The same motive, namely, the thirst for gold, created the hoary walls of Zimbabwe
and the daub huts of Fort Salisbury, probably the oldest and the youngest buildings
erected for the purpose by mankind, ever keen after that precious metal which has
had so remarkable an influence on generation after generation of human atoms. These
remarks on Fort Salisbury will, moreover, have a certain amount of historical value
in years to come, when it has its railway, its town hall, and its cathedral, for we
were there on the day on which its first birthday was kept, the anniversary of the
planting of the British flag by the pioneers on the dreary upland waste of Mashonaland.
It seemed to us a very creditable development, too, for so young a place, when it
is taken into consideration <span class="pageNum" id="pb280">[<a href="#pb280">280</a>]</span>that Fort Salisbury, unlike the mushroom towns of the Western Hemisphere, has grown
up at a distance of 800 miles from a railway, without telegraphic communication, and
for months during the rainy season without intercourse of any kind with the outer
world, handicapped by fever, famine, and an unparalleled continuation of rain.
</p>
<p>In the space of twelve months three distinct townships had grown up. One was under
the low hill or <i>kopje</i> devoted to business men, where indications of brick houses succeeding daub huts had
already manifested themselves; solicitors, auctioneers, and a washerwoman had already
established themselves there; bars, restaurants, and a so-called hotel had been constructed.
Fort Salisbury had already started its mass meetings and revolutionary elements, for
it seems that in all new communities the spirit of evil must always come in advance
of the good. An enterprising individual had produced a paper called the <i>Mashonaland Times and Zambesia Herald</i>, and two men had brought billiard-tables with them, one of which was hopelessly smashed
on the journey, ensuring for the other a successful and paying monopoly. About half
a mile from this busy quarter was the military centre, the fort and the Government
stores surmounted by Her Majesty’s flag, forming a little village in itself. A quarter
of a mile farther were the huts devoted to the civil administration; and farther off
still were the hospital huts superintended by some charming Benedictine sisters <span class="pageNum" id="pb281">[<a href="#pb281">281</a>]</span>and a Jesuit Father. Around all this was the wide open <i>veldt</i> of Mashonaland, studded just then by lovely flowers, and grazed upon by many lean,
worn-out oxen, the sole survivors of many well-appointed teams which had struggled
up the same interminable road that we had, leaving by the roadside the carcasses of
so many comrades, which, in process of decay, had caused us many an unpleasant sensation.
</p>
<p>On September 12, the anniversary of the arrival of the pioneers, a grand dinner was
given to about eighty individuals at the hotel to celebrate the event: representatives
of the military, civil, and business communities were bidden; gold prospectors, mining
experts, men of established and questionable reputations—all were there, and the promoters
underwent superhuman difficulties in catering for so many guests, and gave fabulous
prices for a sufficiency of wine, spirits, and victuals properly to celebrate the
occasion. It was in its initiative ostensibly a social gathering to celebrate an ostensibly
auspicious occasion; but one after-dinner speech became more intemperate than the
other: the authorities were loudly abused for faults committed by them, real or imaginary;
well-known names, when pronounced, were hooted and hissed; and the social gathering
developed, as the evening went on, into a wild demonstration of discontent.
</p>
<p>At the bottom of all this ill-feeling was the question of supplies. The previous rainy
season had been passed by the pioneers in abject misery; there <span class="pageNum" id="pb282">[<a href="#pb282">282</a>]</span>was no food to eat, and no medicine to administer to the overwhelming number of fever
patients. The rainy season was now fast approaching again, when for months the place
would be cut off by the rivers from the outer world, and the 400 waggon-loads of provisions
promised by the company had not yet arrived. Lucky were those who had anything to
sell in those days: a bottle of brandy fetched 3<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i>; champagne was bought at the rate of 30<i>l.</i> a dozen; ham was 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> a lb.; tins of jam 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; butter, tinned meats, and luxuries were impossible to obtain; and yet when, after
a few weeks, the 400 waggons did come, there was a glut in the market of all these
things; plenty was ensured for the coming wet season, and there were no more mass
meetings or abuse of the authorities.
</p>
<p>Probably few cases have occurred in the world’s history of greater difficulty in catering
than that which presented itself to the Chartered Company during the first year of
Fort Salisbury’s existence. Very little could be obtained from a native source, for
the inhabitants here are few. Hungry, impecunious gold prospectors were flocking into
the place; the usual tribe of adventurers, who always appear as impediments to a new
and presumably prosperous undertaking, were here by the score. Eight hundred miles
lay between Fort Salisbury and the food supply, which had to be traversed by the tedious
process of bullock waggons. The Pungwe route, which had been confidently looked to
as a more rapid means of communication, <span class="pageNum" id="pb283">[<a href="#pb283">283</a>]</span>had so far proved a <i>fiasco</i>, and hundreds of pounds’ worth of provisions were rotting on the other side of the
fly belt at Mapanda’s and Beira; so no wonder discontent was rife at the prospect
of famine and death during the ensuing wet months, and no wonder just then that the
administrators were at their wits’ end, for, though firmly believing that the waggons
would come, they could not be sure, for there was no telegraphic communication in
those days. One morning we saw Mr. Selous hurriedly despatched to bring up the waggons
at any cost. A few weeks later we heard that they had arrived, and the danger which
had threatened the infant Fort Salisbury was averted.
</p>
<p>At an elevation of 5,000 feet above the sea level, and barely 18° south of the equator,
the air of Fort Salisbury is naturally delicious, and it will probably be the healthiest
place in the world when the swamps in its vicinity are properly drained, from which,
during the rainy season, malarious vapours proceed and cause fever. The question of
drainage was exercising the minds of the authorities when we were there, and much
probably has now been done in that direction. Searching winds and clouds of dust were
about the only discomforts we personally experienced whilst encamped there; these,
however, caused us no little inconvenience, as we were preparing our belongings for
various destinations, a matter of no small difficulty after seven months of waggon
life. We were told to sell everything we could, including our <span class="pageNum" id="pb284">[<a href="#pb284">284</a>]</span>waggons and oxen, as it would only be possible to perform the rest of the journeys
before us with horses and donkeys and bearers, necessitating the reduction of our
impedimenta to the smallest possible quantity. What promised to be a very interesting
expedition was in store for us—namely, to take a present of 40<i>l.</i> worth of goods from the Chartered Company to a chief, ’Mtoko by name, who lived about
120 miles north-east of Fort Salisbury. His country had as yet been hardly visited
by white men, and was reported to be replete with anthropological interests. Then
we were to make our way down to Makoni’s country, where the existence of ruins was
brought before our notice, and so on to Umtali and the coast. This prospective trip
would take us many weeks, and would lead us through much country hitherto unexplored,
so that ample preparations and a careful adjustment of our belongings were necessary.
The best interpreter to be had was kindly placed at our disposal by the Chartered
Company, as the language in those parts differs essentially from that spoken at Zimbabwe
and the Sabi, a certain portion of which had by this time penetrated into our brains.
The interpreter in question was just then absent from Fort Salisbury, so to occupy
our time we decided on a trip to the Mazoe Valley, and the old gold workings which
exist there.
</p>
<p>Having despatched three donkeys with bedding and provisions the night before, we left
Fort Salisbury one lovely morning, September 15, and rode <span class="pageNum" id="pb285">[<a href="#pb285">285</a>]</span>through country as uninteresting as one could well imagine until we reached Mount
Hampden. Somehow or another we had formed impressions of this mountain of a wholly
erroneous character. It has an historic interest as a landmark, named after one of
the first explorers of Mashonaland, but beyond this it is miserably disappointing.
Instead of the fine mountain which our imaginations had painted for us, we saw only
a miserable round elevation above the surrounding plain, which might possibly be as
high as Box Hill, certainly no higher. It is covered with trees of stunted growth;
it is absolutely featureless; and is alone interesting from its isolation, and the
vast area of flat <i>veldt</i> which its summit commands.
</p>
<p>Soon after leaving Mount Hampden the views grew very much finer, and as we descended
into the valley of the Tatagora, a tributary of the Mazoe, we entered into a distinctly
new class of scenery. Here everything is rich and green; the rounded hills and wooded
heights were an immense relief to us after the continuous though fantastic granite
<i>kopjes</i> which we had travelled amongst during the whole of our sojourn in Mashonaland. The
delicate green leaves of the machabel tree, on which, I am told, elephants delight
to feed, were just now at their best, and take the place of the mimosa, mapani, and
other trees, of which we had grown somewhat weary. The soil, too, is here of a reddish
colour, and we enjoyed all the pleasurable sensations of getting into an entirely
<span class="pageNum" id="pb286">[<a href="#pb286">286</a>]</span>new formation, after the eye had been accustomed to one style of colouring for months.
</p>
<p>As we proceeded down the valley the hills closed in and became higher; occasional
rugged peaks stood up out of gentle wooded slopes; and if one had ignored the trivial
detail of foliage, one might have imagined that we were plunging into a pretty Norwegian
valley with a stream rushing down its midst.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p286width" id="p286"><img src="images/p286.png" alt="NATIVE BOWL FROM THE MAZOE VALLEY" width="332" height="364"><p class="figureHead">NATIVE BOWL FROM THE MAZOE VALLEY</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Presently we came upon a nest of native kraals, and alighted to inspect them. There
are those who say that these people are the real Mashonas, who have given their name
to the whole country. This I much doubt; at any rate they are very different from
the Makalangas, with whom we had hitherto been entirely associated, and have been
here only for a few years. When Mr. Selous first visited this valley on one of his
hunting expeditions in 1883, he found it quite uninhabited, whereas now there are
many villages, an apt illustration of the migratory tendencies of these <span class="pageNum" id="pb287">[<a href="#pb287">287</a>]</span>tribes. They are quite different in type to the Makalangas, and, I should say, distinctly
inferior in physique. They build their huts differently, with long eaves coming right
down to the ground. Their granaries are fatter and lower, and made of branches instead
of mud, these two facts pointing distinctly to a tribal variation. They wear their
hair in long strings over their face, one on each side of the nose, and the others
hanging on their cheeks, giving them quite a sphinx-like appearance. These strings
are adorned with beads and cowrie-shells, and must form the most uncomfortable style
of <i>coiffure</i> that ever was invented. They have magnificent bowls of hand-made pottery, decorated
with chevron patterns in red and black, which colours they obtain from hematite and
plumbago; and on all advantageous spots near the villages are platforms raised on
stakes for drying grain.
</p>
<p>Undoubtedly this race, whoever they may be, have a northern origin, for they call
beer <i>Doorah</i> or <i>Doro</i>, the same word used for the same material in Abyssinia and Nubia. This word is also
used in <span class="corr" id="xd31e3964" title="Source: M’toko’s">’Mtoko’s</span> and Makoni’s country. Curiously enough, Edrisi, in his geography, when speaking of
the Zindj inhabitants near Sofala, makes this statement: ‘Dowrah is very scarce amongst
them,’ pointing to the Arabian origin of the word; whereas in Manicaland beer is called
<i>Wa-wa</i>, and in Mashonaland, south of Fort Salisbury, it is called <i>’Mtwala</i>, a word of Zulu origin.
</p>
<p>Four miles beyond these villages the valley gets <span class="pageNum" id="pb288">[<a href="#pb288">288</a>]</span>very narrow and the scenery very fine; and the shades of evening found us comfortably
located in the huts of Mr. Fleming, a gold prospector, at a distance of twenty-five
miles from Fort Salisbury and in the vicinity of the ancient mines. Immediately opposite
to us rose a fine rocky mountain in which are caves where the natives hide themselves
and their cattle during Matabele raids. It was a lovely warm evening, and as we sat
contemplating the scene and resting after the labours of the day, we felt the soothing
influence upon us of scenery more congenial to our taste than any we had yet seen
in Mashonaland.
</p>
<p>The first set of old workings which we visited was only a few hundred yards from Mr.
Fleming’s huts, and consisted of rows of vertical shafts, now filled up with rubbish,
sunk along the edge of the auriferous reef, and presumably, from instances we saw
later, communicating with one another by horizontal shafts below. We saw also several
instances of sloping and horizontal shafts, all pointing to considerable engineering
skill. It must have been ages since these shafts were worked, for they are all filled
nearly to the surface with <i>débris</i>, and huge machabel-trees, the largest in the vicinity, are growing out of them. We
then proceeded to visit some old workings about a mile and a half off on the hill
slopes. One vertical shaft had been cleared out by Mr. Fleming’s workmen, and it was
fifty-five feet deep. Down this we went with considerable difficulty, and saw for
ourselves the ancient tool marks and the smaller horizontal shafts <span class="pageNum" id="pb289">[<a href="#pb289">289</a>]</span>which connected the various holes bored into the gold-bearing quartz.
</p>
<p>I am told that near Hartley Hills some of these old workings go down even to a greater
depth, and that one has been cleared out to the depth of eighty feet, proving incontestably
that the ancient workers of these mines were not content with mere surface work, and
followed the reef with the skill of a modern miner.
</p>
<p>All about here the ground is honeycombed with old shafts of a similar nature, indicated
now by small round depressions in straight lines along the reef where different shafts
had been sunk; in fact, the output of gold in centuries long gone by must have been
enormous.
</p>
<p>Since the modern invasion of this gold-producing district a considerable amount of
prospecting has been done, but of necessity time has not allowed of a thorough investigation
of the country. Wherever the gold prospector has been, he finds instances of ancient
working, and these old shafts extend all up the country wherever the gold-bearing
quartz is to be found. There are ruins similar to those at Zimbabwe and the old workings
in the Tati district. The old workings and ruins extend for miles and miles up the
Mazoe Valley. Numerous old shafts are to be found at Hartley Hills, and on the ’Mswezwe
River. Near Fort Victoria and in the immediate vicinity of Zimbabwe the prospectors
have lately brought to light the same features; everywhere, in short, where the pioneer
prospectors <span class="pageNum" id="pb290">[<a href="#pb290">290</a>]</span>have as yet penetrated overwhelming proof of the extent of the ancient industry is
brought to light. Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund thus speaks of the old workings in the ’Mswezwe
district:<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e3987src" href="#xd31e3987">1</a> ‘On all sides there was testimony of the enormous amount of work that had been done
by the ancients for the production of gold. Here, as on the Mazoe and at Umtali, tens
of thousands of slaves must have been at work taking out the softer parts of the casing
of the reefs, and millions of tons have been overturned in their search for gold.’
</p>
<p>In all these places, too, as in the Mazoe Valley, especially down by the streams,
are found crushing-stones, some in long rows, suggesting the idea that the gold had
been worked by gangs of slaves chained together in rows, after the fashion depicted
on the Egyptian monuments and described by Diodorus; and near Mr. Fleming’s camp we
were shown traces of a cement smelting furnace similar to the one we discovered in
the fortress of Zimbabwe, showing that all the various processes of gold production,
crushing, washing, and smelting, were carried on on the spot.
</p>
<p>As we proceeded up the Mazoe Valley we saw plenty of traces of the juvenile enterprise
at work on the old hunting-ground; and a little below Mr. Fleming’s camp the Taragona
and Mazoe Rivers join, the latter coming down from a valley of higher level, by a
<i>Poort</i> or gorge. Established on the old workings along here were numerous settlements bearing
<span class="pageNum" id="pb291">[<a href="#pb291">291</a>]</span>modern names—Rothschild’s, Cherry’s, Lockner’s, and others—and soon probably a little
township will spring up around the mining commissioner’s hut, where the Mazoe River
is lined by fine timber, including lemon-trees, the fruit of which was just then ripe,
and deliciously refreshing after our hot morning’s work. These lemon-trees are alluded
to by Dos Santos as existing in these parts in his day three hundred years ago.
</p>
<p>The mining commissioner, Mr. Nesbit, entertained us most hospitably for our midday
repast, and directed us on our way to the Yellow Jacket Mine, near which we were to
see more old workings and an ancient ruined fort. By another narrow gorge or <i>Poort</i>, rich in vegetation, and lovely to look upon, we reached the higher valley, and when
darkness had already set in, by the aid of the distant glimmering light of a camp
fire we made our way to the tents of the Yellow Jacket prospectors, whose abode we
had nearly missed in the gloaming. The kindly prospectors hastened to prepare for
us an excellent supper of eland steak, for they had shot one of these fine beasts
a day or two before, a wonderfully good stroke of luck for us, as we were without
meat. The eland is the best beast you can kill in Mashonaland, for not only is it
large, but around its heart it has a considerable amount of fat, so that its flesh
can be properly served up, and not reduced to lumps of leather for want of grease.
They had also shot a <span class="pageNum" id="pb292">[<a href="#pb292">292</a>]</span>fine lion here not long before, and proudly showed us the skin.
</p>
<p>The country about here is very thickly wooded, and we had a glorious ride next morning
to the ruins we wished to visit, about five miles distant, across rushing streams
overhung with verdure, and in which alluvial gold is still found in small quantities.
Here we saw specimens of those curious birds with long tail-like feathers at the end
of their wings, which can only fly for a short distance, and seem overweighted by
nature for some peculiar freak of her own. There are, too, all up this country many
varieties of small birds with tail feathers four or five times their own length, which
droop as they fly. These birds seem to me to resemble closely the one depicted on
the temple of Deir-el-Bahari in the representation of a village in Punt (Mariette’s
‘Deir-el-Bahari,’ plate v.), identified as the <i lang="la">Cinnyris metallica</i>, and found all along the east coast of Africa.
</p>
<p>We reached the ruin in good time, and halted by it for a couple of hours. It is a
small ancient fort, built, as usual, on a granite <i>kopje</i>, and constructed with courses of wonderful regularity, equal to what we term the
best period of Zimbabwe architecture. Not much of the wall was standing; enough, however,
to show us that the fort had been almost twenty feet in diameter, and to cause us
to wonder where the remaining stones could have gone to, as there are no buildings
or Kaffir kraals anywhere near it. This is another of the many mysteries attached
to the Mashonaland <span class="pageNum" id="pb293">[<a href="#pb293">293</a>]</span>ruins; where the walls are ruined the stones would seem to have entirely disappeared.
This difficulty confronted us at several places, and I am utterly at a loss to account
for it.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p293width" id="p293"><img src="images/p293.png" alt="RUIN IN MAZOE VALLEY" width="543" height="385"><p class="figureHead">RUIN IN MAZOE VALLEY</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The fort, as it stands now, is exceedingly picturesque, in a green glade with mountains
shutting it in on all sides; fine timber grows inside it and large boulders are enclosed
within the walls. It was obviously erected as a fort to protect the miners of the
district, and is a link in the chain of evidence which connects the Zimbabwe ruins
with the old workings scattered over the country.
</p>
<p>On our homeward journey we visited a lot more <span class="pageNum" id="pb294">[<a href="#pb294">294</a>]</span>ancient workings, some of which are being opened by the present occupiers, who seemed
tolerably well satisfied with their properties, despite the strictures which had been
passed by experts, that the gold reefs in the Mazoe Valley ‘pinched out’ and did other
disagreeable things which they ought not to do. From a picturesque point of view the
Mazoe Valley is certainly one of the pet places in Mashonaland: the views in every
direction are exquisite, water is abundant everywhere, and verdure rich; and if the
prospectors are disappointed in their search for gold, and find that the ancients
have exhausted the place, they will have, at any rate, valuable properties from an
agricultural point of view.
</p>
<p>Owing to our previous arrangements we were obliged to return to Fort Salisbury the
next day, regretting much that we had not time to proceed farther up the Mazoe Valley,
where, about forty miles farther on, is another great centre of ancient industry.
I was told of another ruin there, probably built for the same defensive purpose; it
is near a Kaffir village called Chipadzi’s. About twenty-five miles farther up the
valley from the commissioner’s is Mapandera’s kraal on the Sangwe River, a tributary
of the Mazoe or Mazowe. Here, on the Inyota Mountain, gold is said to be plentiful
and old workings very numerous, as many as seventy-five crushing-stones having been
counted on one single claim. Twenty miles south-east of Mapandera’s is Chipadzi’s
kraal, and a few miles from here in the mountains is another ruin, <span class="pageNum" id="pb295">[<a href="#pb295">295</a>]</span>described to me as being a circular wall round a <i>kopje</i> from 150 to 200 feet in diameter. This wall is in a very ruined condition, being
not more than four feet in height, but the courses are reported to be quite as regular
as those of Zimbabwe, which appears to be the crucial test in classifying these remains
of ancient workmanship. It has no entrance, and the natives thereabouts did not appear
to know anything about it or attach any special interest to it.
</p>
<p>The Mazoe Valley is frequently alluded to in early Portuguese enterprise, being easily
approachable from the Zambesi, and the river is, I am told, navigable about eighty
miles below where we struck it.
</p>
<p>Couto, the Portuguese writer, thus speaks of the gold mines here in his quaint legendary
style: ‘The richest mines of all are those of Massapa, where they show the Abyssinian
mine from which the Queen of Sheba took the greater part of the gold which she went
to offer to the Temple of Solomon, and it is Ophir, for the Kaffirs called it <i>Fur</i> and the Moors <i>Afur</i> … the veins of gold are so big, that they expand with so much force, that they raise
the roots of trees two feet.’ He fixes the spot which he here alludes to farther on
when speaking about the three markets held by the Portuguese in these parts: ‘(1)
<i>Luanhe</i>, thirty-five leagues from Tete South, between two small rivers, which join and are
called Masouvo; (2) <i>Bacoto</i>, forty leagues from Tete; and (3) <i>Massapa</i>, fifty leagues from Tete up the said River Masouvo.’ Now the Mazoe, which, doubtless,
in the native tongue, is the <span class="pageNum" id="pb296">[<a href="#pb296">296</a>]</span>Maswe, like the Pungwe, Zimbabwe, &amp;c., joins the Zambesi just below Tete.
</p>
<p>Further evidences of this Portuguese enterprise will doubtless come to light as the
Mazoe Valley is further explored. In the vicinity of a new mine called the Jumbo,
fragments of old Delft pottery have been found, a few of which were shown to me when
at Fort Salisbury. Nankin china is also reported from the same district, an indubitable
proof of Portuguese presence; and no doubt many of the large Venetian beads, centuries
old, which we saw and obtained specimens of from the Makalangas in the neighbourhood
of Zimbabwe, were barter goods given by the traders of those days to the subjects
of the Monomatapa, who brought them gold in quills to the three above-named <span class="corr" id="xd31e4048" title="Source: depôts">dépôts</span>, collected from the alluvial beds of the Mazoe and other streams. It is rumoured
amongst the inhabitants of the Mazoe and Manica that long ago, in the days of their
ancestors, white men worked gold and built themselves houses here. This rumour most
probably refers to the Portuguese, who at the three above-mentioned places had churches
and forts, faint traces of which are still to be found in the district.
</p>
<p>Corvo, in his work ‘As Provincias ultramarinas,’ speaks at considerable length about
the early Portuguese enterprise and the jealousy of the Arab merchants at their advent,
and how these men excited the suspicion of the Monomatapa and brought about the subsequent
martyrdom of the Jesuit missionary <span class="pageNum" id="pb297">[<a href="#pb297">297</a>]</span>Silveira and the entire destruction of the Portuguese mission, which had nearly converted
the Monomatapa in 1561. He concludes his remarks on this subject as follows:—
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p297width" id="p297"><img src="images/p297.jpg" alt="THREE VENETIAN BEADS; ONE COPPER BEAD; THREE OLD WHITE VENETIAN BEADS; BONE WHORL, MEDICINE PHIALS, AND BONE ORNAMENTS" width="457" height="621"><p class="figureHead">THREE VENETIAN BEADS; ONE COPPER BEAD; THREE OLD WHITE VENETIAN BEADS; BONE WHORL,
MEDICINE PHIALS, AND BONE ORNAMENTS</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb298">[<a href="#pb298">298</a>]</span></p>
<p>‘The early Portuguese did nothing more than substitute themselves for the Moors, as
they called them, in the ports that those occupied on the coast; and their influence
extended to the interior very little; unless, indeed, through some acts of violence,
or through some ephemeral alliance of no value whatever, and through missions without
any practical or lasting results. It is easy to see, by looking at the map, where
the Portuguese influence extended to, and that they never left a good navigable river
as a basis of operation. They went up the Zambesi, and up the Mazoe as far as they
could, where they established the three fairs for trading purposes, and up the Pungwe
and Buzi Rivers, establishing themselves in the same way at Massi-Kessi and Bandiri;
and beyond this their influence did not extend at all during what may be called the
most flourishing epoch of their colonial existence.’
</p>
<p>From the Yellow Jacket tents we had a long ride before us of thirty miles back to
Fort Salisbury. We arose betimes and found it very cold, with a thin coating of ice
on the water-cans, almost the only time we saw ice during our ‘winter’ in Mashonaland,
although occasionally the wind was cold and the nights very fresh. Winter in these
parts is delightful, with brilliant sun by day; but as evening approaches a coat is
necessary, and during our two nights at the Yellow Jacket huts we had to remove rugs,
which were sorely wanted below, to procure the necessary warmth above.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb299">[<a href="#pb299">299</a>]</span></p>
<p>One more breakfast off that excellent eland fortified us for our ride, and the sun
was not high in the heavens when we bade farewell to our hospitable entertainers.
About three hours’ ride brought us to the Mazoe again just before it enters the Poort
on its way to the lower valley. At the extremity of the valley we were riding down,
just before the hills are ascended to reach the level plateau, there is another nest
of Kaffir villages; one of these had incurred the enmity of the officers of the Chartered
Company for refusing to recognise its authority by restoring stolen cattle.
</p>
<p>A fine of cattle had been imposed on the chief, accompanied by a threat that if the
fine was not paid by a certain day the kraal would be burnt down. The fine was not
paid, and Major Forbes, with a band of men, rode out to execute the orders, borrowing
two of our horses for the occasion. As we passed through the village the ashes of
huts and granaries were still smouldering, broken pots and household goods lay around
in wild confusion, and all the inhabitants had taken refuge at one of the neighbouring
villages. As we passed by this it is needless to say we did not meet with an altogether
cordial reception; we dismounted and went amongst them, asking in vain for beer, eggs,
and fowls.
</p>
<p>‘The Morunko had taken them all,’ they said, and they received our overtures of friendship
with silent, and we thought rather ominous, contempt. Accordingly we remounted and
rode off, and I think all <span class="pageNum" id="pb300">[<a href="#pb300">300</a>]</span>parties were relieved when we had put a little distance between us and the village.
Since then I hear a solitary white man has been murdered in the Mazoe Valley. Luckily
our force amounted to three, a number sufficient to overawe any Mashonaland village.
</p>
<p>There are some nice-looking farms just started on the slopes of the hills here. Near
there we met a wondrous long string of natives in single file, who avoided us and
looked askance at us and our animals. Some day or another, when Fort Salisbury becomes
a big place, and food supplies are needed, those who have pegged out farms in the
Mazoe district will reap a fine profit from their agricultural produce, if I am not
much mistaken.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb301">[<a href="#pb301">301</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e3987">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e3987src">1</a></span> Lecture before the Colonial Institute, April 12, 1892.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e3987src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch10" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e484">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER X</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF ’MTOKO</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">There is always a charm to us connected with the investigation of a country the name
of which conveys nothing to anybody, and which is a blank on the map. This, I think,
was one of the chief incentives to us to accept the diplomatic post of presenting
a gift of forty pounds’ worth of goods from the Chartered Company to the chief ’Mtoko.
</p>
<p>We gathered that ’Mtoko was a powerful chief, dreaded by the natives, whose country
lay about 120 miles to the north-east of Fort Salisbury; that he ruled over a large
and almost unknown district reaching on the west to the territories under the influence
of the Portuguese satellite Gouveia; and that his father, who had lately died, had
entered into a treaty with the Chartered Company which gave them paramount influence,
but that the present chief and his subjects, who were reported to have customs of
an exceedingly primitive order, had as yet had no official dealings with the Company.
This was about all the information we could gather.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb302">[<a href="#pb302">302</a>]</span></p>
<p>The following is an exact copy of my credentials:—
</p>
<blockquote>
<p class="first salute"><i>To the Chief Matoko</i>
</p>
<p class="dateline">The British South Africa Company, Salisbury. <br>September 21, 1891.
</p>
<p>My Friend,—Mr. Selous has told Mr. Rhodes, the Big Induna of all white men in this
country, all about you, and he has sent his friend Mr. Bent to see you and your people,
and to give you some presents from him; and also to tell you that you are now under
the Great White Queen, and that the Portuguese will not trouble you any more.
</p>
<p>You and your people will now live in peace and security.
</p>
<p class="signed">I am, your Friend, <br><span class="sc">F. Rutherfoord Harris</span>, <br>Secretary.</p>
</blockquote><p>
</p>
<p>We certainly felt somewhat adventurous when we left Fort Salisbury, on September 23,
on this journey of uncertain length and uncertain results. We could take hardly any
comforts with us except our tent, and the smallest possible allowance of bedclothes,
and only just enough food to keep us from starvation for a week, for the donkeys of
this country carry very little weight, and the only bearers we could get were our
two faithful Makalangas, Mashanani and <span class="corr" id="xd31e4107" title="Source: Iguzo">Iguzu</span>. These, together with our three white men, who looked after the eleven donkeys, formed
our only staff, for the interpreter had not yet come in, and was to be sent after
us. The only fixed idea of time that we had was that a steamer was supposed to leave
Port Beira for the Cape on November 18, and this at <span class="pageNum" id="pb303">[<a href="#pb303">303</a>]</span>all hazards we had to catch; the intervening space of time was to us a maze of delightful
uncertainty, only to be unravelled as that time went by.
</p>
<p>After a comfortable breakfast at the civilian mess hut, and farewells to our kind
friends at Fort Salisbury, my wife, Mr. Swan, and I started on our three horses in
pursuit of our donkeys, which had started along the Manica road about an hour before.
These we soon caught up, and after a hot dusty ride of about ten miles we pitched
our tents about one hundred yards from a large Kaffir village on a flat space, hidden
away amongst a sea of small granite boulders. Here the women wore pretty chaplets
of red and white beads sewn on to snake-skins, and aprons and necklets gaily decorated
with the same; the chief had a splendid crop of long black hair. Beyond this the village
presented nothing fresh to our notice until night fell, when our rest was disturbed
for hours by a series of hideous noises: drums were beaten, dogs were barking, men
were howling like wild beasts, and when they ceased the women would take up their
refrain, guns were periodically let off, and everything conceivable was done to render
night hideous. On rising next morning and inquiring the cause of this nightmare, we
were informed that a death had taken place in the village, and that the inhabitants
were indulging in their accustomed wailing. I was also told that in these parts they
carefully tie up the limbs of a dead man, his toes and his fingers each separately,
in cloths, prior to burial, whereas a <span class="pageNum" id="pb304">[<a href="#pb304">304</a>]</span>woman is only tied up in a skin, and her grave is of no account.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p304width" id="p304"><img src="images/p304.jpg" alt="TATTOOED WOMEN FROM CHIBI’S, GAMBIDJI’S, AND KUNZI’S COUNTRIES" width="543" height="558"><p class="figureHead">TATTOOED WOMEN FROM CHIBI’S, GAMBIDJI’S, AND KUNZI’S COUNTRIES</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>At the village of Karadi we left the Manica road and entered a very populous district
with numerous villages perched on the rocky heights, the inhabitants of which were
greatly excited at the sight of us, and followed us for miles. This, we learnt, was
Musungaikwa’s <span class="pageNum" id="pb305">[<a href="#pb305">305</a>]</span>country. The women here had a distinct tattoo mark of their own—namely, the lizard
pattern, which we have seen on the dollasses or divining-tablets<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e4124src" href="#xd31e4124">1</a>—done in dots on their stomachs. Some of the men, too, have the same device tattooed
on them on their chests and backs. This is the third distinctive tattoo mark we have
seen in Mashonaland—namely, the furrow pattern around Zimbabwe, the dots in squares
in Gambidji’s country, and here the lizard pattern, all of which are raised marks
on the skin made by the insertion of some drug. They are evidently connected with
some charm, but what the nature of it is I was never able to discover.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatRight p305width" id="p305"><img src="images/p305.png" alt="WOODEN BOWL FROM MUSUNGAIKWA’S KRAAL" width="181" height="218"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN BOWL FROM MUSUNGAIKWA’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>At Musungaikwa’s, necessity for the first time made us acquainted with red millet-meal
porridge, called respectively <i>sodza</i> and <i>ufa</i> in different parts of the country. With milk and sugar it is quite palatable but
gritty; the natives like it best very thick, eating it with a stick and dipping it
into water before consumption; they appear almost to live upon it, and dispose of
surprising quantities. Much rice is grown about here in the swampy ground, sometimes
in round holes, sometimes in wide furrows, which are surprisingly straight for Kaffirs,
who seem to have the greatest difficulty in <span class="pageNum" id="pb306">[<a href="#pb306">306</a>]</span>producing a straight line. Their paths, though very accurate in direction, represent
to the eye a long wavy line, and they are aggravatingly narrow for a European, who
turns his toes out, to walk in, for the Kaffirs always go in single file, and always
put their feet down straight.
</p>
<p>The natives about here followed us with bags of bark fibre full of figs of a rich
brown colour, which we purchased, and found excellent when they were not inhabited,
as was generally the case, by hundreds of little ants.
</p>
<p>At about thirty miles from Fort Salisbury we reached a nest of seven or eight kraals
ruled over by a chief called Kunzi. Here we elected to stay and wait for the interpreter,
and as he did not join us for two days we had a pleasant time for rest and for studying
the inhabitants. Kunzi, the paramount chief of this community, is a young and enterprising
individual; he corresponds to the <i lang="fr">nouveau riche</i> of Kaffirdom, being spoken of as ‘a chief of the assegai’ in contradistinction to
the old hereditary chiefs around. He came originally from ’Mtigeza’s country, got
together a band of followers, and won for himself with his assegai the territory he
now occupies. To a chief of this description all the youth and prowess of the country
flock, hence he had a remarkably fine set of followers, and these he rules with marvellous
strictness. We had an example of his power, for we wanted to get bearers from him.
He brought the men in person, and would not allow them to go with us until we had
<span class="pageNum" id="pb307">[<a href="#pb307">307</a>]</span>paid the stipulated quantity of cloth in advance and deposited it with him. This arrangement
did not please me at all, knowing well the tendency paid bearers have to run away,
but it was inevitable. The men served us extremely well, accompanied us for a fortnight
until we reached the spot arranged upon with the chief, and when I offered them more
to go farther they refused, saying that they dare not do so without the consent of
their chief.
</p>
<p>Kunzi is an ambitious man, and talks of becoming king of Mashonaland, but as he was
driven back during his last attack on his neighbour Mangwendi, and as the Chartered
Company may have something to say to it, this eventuality seems at present in the
dim future. Kunzi is, however, a man of promise, and if he had been born a little
earlier he might have been in a position to resuscitate the fallen glories of the
race.
</p>
<p>Outside Kunzi’s kraal is a fine iron smelting furnace, decorated with the breast and
furrow pattern, and with a large quantity of newly made blow-pipes of dried mud, and
decorated with a spiral pattern, lying in heaps outside. We watched the process here
at our leisure. First they crush the ore obtained from the neighbouring mountains,
which has a large quantity of manganese in it, and spread it on the rocks; the forge
is heated with charcoal and kindled by two men with four bellows, each worked by one
hand; the nozzles are inserted into the blow-pipes, and the blow-pipes into the charcoal;
they press the bellows with their hands by means of a wooden handle, and work <span class="pageNum" id="pb308">[<a href="#pb308">308</a>]</span>with great vigour, singing and perspiring freely as they work. Around the furnace
is a hedge of tall grass, and at night time, when the ore is cool, they remove it
from the furnace and afterwards weld it into the required shapes with stone hammers.
This time-honoured handicraft interested us much, mentioned as it is by Dos Santos
three hundred years ago, and by the Arabian writers close upon a thousand years ago,
as a speciality of the country.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p308width" id="p308"><img src="images/p308.png" alt="MAKALANGA IRON SMELTING FURNACE" width="454" height="285"><p class="figureHead">MAKALANGA IRON SMELTING FURNACE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>One of the neighbouring kraals is ruled over by Kunzi’s brother Gwadeli, who, in his
anxiety to be hospitable, gave us warm beer to drink, which nearly had the effect
of an emetic. A rock rises out of the centre of this kraal, where is an <i>induna’s</i> grave walled into the rock, with four pots of beer before it, and hedged off by a
rope of bark.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p309width" id="p309"><img src="images/p309.png" alt="GOATSKIN BELLOWS AND BLOW-PIPE FOR IRON SMELTING" width="389" height="338"><p class="figureHead">GOATSKIN BELLOWS AND BLOW-PIPE FOR IRON SMELTING</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The following morning we watched with some <span class="pageNum" id="pb309">[<a href="#pb309">309</a>]</span>interest a trader from Fort Salisbury selling goods to the natives. Beads, gunpowder,
and salt were the favourite commodities he had to offer, in return for which he rapidly
acquired a fine lot of pumpkins, maize, potatoes, and other vegetables; whilst for
blankets and rifles he obtained cattle which I am sure would bring him in a handsome
profit when he reached the capital. We ourselves got a few interesting things at Kunzi’s,
including a quill with gold in it which the natives had found in the ’Nyagowe River,
and a dexterously wrought garment for a young lady, about half the size of a freemason’s
apron; it is made of bark fibre, with geometrical patterns of excellent design worked
into it, a species of textile with which we were to become better acquainted in ’Mtoko’s
country. Here, too, we saw <span class="pageNum" id="pb310">[<a href="#pb310">310</a>]</span>sticks set up in the ground with the bark peeled off and bound round the top—a sort
of fetich, which they call their <i>Maklosi</i> or luck sign. They set these things up whenever they come to a new country; also,
on similar occasions, they kneel before a tree and burn snuff, saying as they do so:
‘Muali!’ (the native name for God) ‘we have brought knives, give us meat.’ Then they
do the same at another tree, asking the same petition for their children.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p310width" id="p310"><img src="images/p310.jpg" alt="WOMAN’S DRESS OF WOVEN BARK FIBRE" width="531" height="406"><p class="figureHead">WOMAN’S DRESS OF WOVEN BARK FIBRE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>A delicious stream for bathing and washing clothes flowed a few yards below our camp,
which gave us sufficient employment for what would otherwise have <span class="pageNum" id="pb311">[<a href="#pb311">311</a>]</span>been an idle afternoon. At midnight our interpreter arrived, and the following morning
we commenced our journey in real earnest.
</p>
<p>At a village where we halted for a while we were introduced to a young girl, who was
shortly to become chief Kunzi’s eleventh wife—the state wife, to be presented to him
by his tribe, whose son will be heir to the chiefdom, to the exclusion of the children
by his other purchased wives. This marriage is usually recommended and seen to by
the tribe when the chief is getting on towards middle life; and the succession in
these parts is carried on in this way. She wore round her neck one of the large white
whorls made out of the end of shells, which are common amongst the natives, but a
specimen of which I tried ineffectually to get. This, I now learnt, is the sign of
betrothal, and is transferred to the neck of the baby when born. Men also wear them
for love philtres, and hence their reluctance to part with them.
</p>
<p>During this day’s march we passed by a pond dug in a hollow which was in process of
drying up. These holes are dug by the natives in the dry season with the object of
catching fish when the swamps dry up; also for fishing they make use of a thing very
like our lobster-pot, which they tie to a fence across a rapid portion of the stream.
The love the natives have for salt throughout this saltless country is very marked;
for sugar and lollipops, which we offered them, they have a positive aversion; anything
of a savoury nature pleases them immensely, and their <span class="pageNum" id="pb312">[<a href="#pb312">312</a>]</span>gestures of delight over the scrapings of tins of anchovy paste were most pleasing
to contemplate. Mice, locusts, and caterpillars are their daintiest viands, and if
given a lump of salt they will put it straight-way into their mouths and consume it
with the greatest complacency.
</p>
<p>We halted that night at the village of Yandoro, still in Kunzi’s country, with a solitary
rock in its midst, divided into two parts by a narrow split forming a gully which
is bridged over by trees, so that they can retire to the highest point when the Matabele
come, and wait there till the <i>impi</i> has departed with their cattle and grain.
</p>
<p>I learnt here a little more concerning the mysteries of hand-clapping and greetings.
One of our bearers from Kunzi’s kraal, Girandali by name, had relatives here, and
I followed him to their hut, the inmates of which were seated solemnly on the floor
and began to clap, whereupon Girandali commenced to relate parenthetically the events
of his career since they last met; between each parenthesis the host clapped and said
his name. This went on for fully ten minutes, each parenthesis being received with
more or less clapping, as it attracted the attention of his hearers. When Girandali
had done, there was a general clapping which lasted for some time, and then the formal
part of the conversation was over.
</p>
<p>The chief of a neighbouring village, Bochiko by name, here paid us a visit. He is
a most curious specimen <span class="pageNum" id="pb313">[<a href="#pb313">313</a>]</span>of his race, a veritable pigmy only four feet four inches in height. He has lost all
his toes in battle and has had one leg broken and never set; he wore a large brass
ring with curious patterns on it on his tiny fingers, and brass bracelets on his tiny
arms, both of which we purchased from him. He is said to have five wives and five
stalwart children.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p313width" id="p313"><img src="images/p313.jpg" alt="BRACELETS" width="535" height="330"><p class="figureHead">BRACELETS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>We were greatly surprised on rising next morning to learn that my mare, an old ‘salted
horse,’ which we had had with us for six months, and ridden hard all the time, had
presented us with a foal during the night—unfortunately a dead one. The mare did not
seem much the worse for her adventure; in fact, I personally was the only sufferer,
for a probably <span class="pageNum" id="pb314">[<a href="#pb314">314</a>]</span>misplaced compassion prompted me to walk instead of ride for the next day’s march.
</p>
<p>We were now passing through a corner of Mangwendi’s country, a chief with whom we
were to become better acquainted later on. Gaza, one of his chief <i>indunas</i>, has a kraal on an exceedingly high rock by which we passed; in fact, about here
the country is very populous, owing to the rocky nature of the ground and the inaccessible
eyries in which the natives can plant their huts. We wondered what the meaning of
many pots might be which we saw here on high boulders with stones around and on the
top. By inquiry we learnt that they were beehives, equivalent to the bark hives we
so constantly saw farther south. There is much ceremony about here at the presentation
of beer. At Malozo’s kraal the chief handed the pot to one of our bearers, who handed
it to the interpreter, who handed it to me. Their hair, too, is very wildly dressed,
being long and tangled, and when it becomes past endurance by reason of the insects
collected therein, they shave it off and hang it to a tree, revealing to the world
their bare and greatly disfigured pates.
</p>
<p>After this we went through a long stretch of almost uninhabited country, very lovely
indeed to look upon, richly wooded, with glimpses through the woods of tree-clad heights,
with strange finger-shaped rocks appearing out of them as far as the eye could reach
into the blue distance. These granite <i>kopjes</i> would be distinctly wearisome were it not for <span class="pageNum" id="pb315">[<a href="#pb315">315</a>]</span>the ever-varying fantastic shapes. The forests themselves are painfully monotonous;
at one time you are riding through groves of medlars with coarse large leaves, then
you come across a stretch of white-flowered sugar-tree (<i lang="la">Protea mellifera</i>), which, I think, of all trees is the most aggravating, from the dull monotony of
its leaves and generally scraggy appearance of its branches. Its flower is very pretty,
being like a soft silvery white chrysanthemum, three inches in diameter; it is very
attractive to butterflies and pretty sun-beetles, with which the flower is sometimes
quite covered. About here we passed a curious granite mountain called Mount Jomvga,
rising above all the rest like a gigantic silver thimble. Mount Jomvga haunted us
for days and days, and we never lost sight of it during the whole of our stay in ’Mtoko’s
country.
</p>
<p>We were now rapidly approaching ’Mtoko’s country, but the nearer we approached our
goal the more difficulty we had in obtaining information as to where the chief actually
lived. Some said he lived at the village of Lutzi, a few miles across the border,
others said he lived about six miles farther on; consequently we were somewhat perplexed,
and ended by stopping near Lutzi for a while, whilst our interpreter rode on to make
further inquiries.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p316width" id="p316"><img src="images/p316.jpg" alt="WOODEN PLATTER FROM LUTZI" width="344" height="358"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN PLATTER FROM LUTZI</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Amongst other embarrassing things that a son inherits with the chiefdom are his father’s
wives. Of course a man is not expected to marry his own <span class="pageNum" id="pb316">[<a href="#pb316">316</a>]</span>mother, but his stepmothers are different, especially if, as often happens, they are
young and comely. At Lutzi we were told that the new ’Mtoko had deposited several
of his father’s widows, presumably the old and ugly ones, whom he did not admire.
Certainly some of the customs of this country are exceedingly strange, and we should
not have believed them had we not again and again asked the same questions from different
individuals and always got the same reply. One of these is sufficiently horrible,
and I hope the influence of the Chartered Company will soon work for its suppression.
If a woman gives birth to twins they are immediately destroyed. This they consider
an unnatural freak on the part of a woman, and is supposed to indicate famine or some
other calamity. In this custom they differ essentially from their Matabele neighbours,
where Lobengula, like our Queen, honours a prolific mother with a special gift. In
’Mtoko’s country the unfortunate twins are put into one of <span class="pageNum" id="pb317">[<a href="#pb317">317</a>]</span>their big pots, with a stone on the top, and left to their fate.
</p>
<p>In their marauding transactions there is a curious code of honour amongst them. Suppose
a woman to be stolen from a tribe, the injured individuals lie in wait for the oxen
of the thieves, and when captured take them to the chief, who allots them as follows:
1. One is slaughtered for general consumption and joviality. 2. The rightful owner
of the stolen woman is next indemnified. 3. The rest of the tribe are questioned as
to whether they have any grievance to be rectified. 4. If there are any oxen over
they are scrupulously returned to their owners. Their code of morality is far below
the standard amongst the Zulus in Matabeleland.
</p>
<p>Many of the customs have a curious Eastern tinge; for example, hired labour is unknown,
and if a man wants assistance in his fields he brews a quantity of beer, bids his
neighbours come, and the better the beer the more labourers he will get. This custom
is still common in Asia Minor and the East, where wine is the substitute for beer.
</p>
<p>Lutzi did not interest us much; it is a scattered and poor-looking kraal on a bleak
hill, with large stone semicircles, where the men of the village can sit and smoke
sheltered from the wind; so on hearing that the ’Mtoko’s kraal was really about six
miles off, we set out for it about ten o’clock on the following morning.
</p>
<p>There is much that is different in this country <span class="pageNum" id="pb318">[<a href="#pb318">318</a>]</span>from what we had seen elsewhere in Mashonaland, enough almost to point to a difference
of race; the language, too, we found so different that we could understand but little
of it ourselves, though the ordinary Makalanga terms for commodities such as <i>mazai</i> for eggs, <i>makaka</i> for milk, &amp;c., were still in vogue. Probably the different circumstances of life
will account for the difference in character. The people do not live in kraals huddled
together on the top of rocks, but in small scattered kraals of from six to twenty
huts dotted all over the country, where agriculture may take them, arguing a degree
of prosperity and security to property which we had not seen elsewhere in Mashonaland.
In these little kraals there is generally a hut raised on poles in the midst, which
acts as a kind of watch-tower. They told us that the Matabele never penetrate as far
as this, and that the only enemy they fear is the Portuguese half-caste Gouveia, whose
territory lies over the mountains to the east; but his attacks were successfully repulsed
by the old ’Mtoko, who had thereby established such a reputation for valour that none
of his neighbours durst interfere with him.
</p>
<p>The result of this condition of affairs was that in ’Mtoko’s country we saw more cattle
than we had seen elsewhere, but all of the same calibre. The characteristic of all
domestic animals in Mashonaland is their small size. The cows are less than our Guernsey
breed, and give very little milk; the sheep and goats are diminutive and unhealthy
looking; the <span class="pageNum" id="pb319">[<a href="#pb319">319</a>]</span>hens are ridiculous little things, and their eggs not much bigger than pigeons’ eggs
at home. As for the dogs, they are the most contemptible specimens of the canine race
I have ever seen in any of my wanderings. This does not look well for the prospects
of the agriculturists, but probably the diminution in physique amongst the Mashonaland
cattle is rather due to the coarse grass and swampy land and the want of proper care
than to any other cause.
</p>
<div class="table" id="p320">
<table class="p320">
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p320-1width"><img src="images/p320-1.png" alt="EARRING" width="69" height="103"><p class="figureHead">EARRING</p>
</div>
</td>
<td class="cellRight cellTop cellBottom">
<div class="figure p320-2width"><img src="images/p320-2.png" alt="STUD FOR THE LIP" width="50" height="105"><p class="figureHead">STUD FOR THE LIP</p>
</div> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Up a narrowing valley, with a gorge or <i>kloof</i> at the end of it, under the shadow of a rocky mountain, and almost hidden by a dense
mass of timber, lies ’Mtoko’s kraal, also, after the fashion of the country, a small
one. In our innocence we advanced right up to the kraal; and despite the expostulation
of an angry crowd of natives, who screamed and yelled at us, we commenced to pitch
our tents close by the shady trees in a spot which looked very inviting for a few
days’ rest. Suddenly it dawned upon us that we had been guilty of some breach of savage
etiquette, so I immediately despatched our interpreter to see the chief, with a portion
of the present as a foretaste of better things to come. We seated ourselves rather
disconsolately beneath the trees awaiting his return, watching the inhabitants, who
swarmed around us.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p320-3width"><img src="images/p320-3.jpg" alt="BATTLE-AXE" width="438" height="197"><p class="figureHead">BATTLE-AXE</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>The women of ’Mtoko’s country are quite the most decent of their sex that we had seen
since entering Mashonaland. Out of bark fibre they weave for themselves quite massive
dresses, two yards long <span class="pageNum" id="pb320">[<a href="#pb320">320</a>]</span>and one yard wide, which they decorate with pretty raised geometric patterns like
one sees on old-fashioned ‘Marsella’ quilts at home; these they gird round their loins
and fasten on with a girdle of bark netting, and consequently they present an air
of decency to which their sisters in other parts of this country are strangers, with
their tiny leather aprons scarce worthy of the name of clothing. Nevertheless, when
in their huts the women of this country take off this heavy and somewhat awkward garment,
and one day, having crawled into a hut, I was somewhat startled to find myself in
the presence of two dusky ladies dressed like Eve in the Garden of Eden. Most of the
people about here have their upper and lower lips bored, and insert in them either
a nail-like object, somewhat after the fashion of the Nubians, or a bead or ring,
or a plain bit of stick. Their front teeth of both upper and lower jaws are filed,
an ancient <span class="pageNum" id="pb321">[<a href="#pb321">321</a>]</span>custom to which both Dos Santos and El Masoudi, the Arabian historian, allude. There
is evidently a strong Zambesi influence in ’Mtoko’s country; their battle-axes, their
assegais, and their powder-horns are far more elaborately carved and decorated with
brass wire than those we had seen farther south, and bear a close resemblance to those
which the tribes on the Zambesi produce. In their hair they wear combs inlaid with
different-coloured straws, and their bracelets also are very elaborate.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p321width" id="p321"><img src="images/p321.png" alt="POWDER-HORN" width="475" height="258"><p class="figureHead">POWDER-HORN</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Our emissary came back with a long face. The ’Mtoko, despite the offering we had sent
him, was indignant at our invasion of his privacy; in fact, to avoid seeing a white
<i>induna</i> without taking counsel with his head men, he had been obliged to take refuge in a
cave. His father, he said, would not allow a white man to encamp within eight miles
of his kraal. This happened to Mr. Selous, the only white man who <span class="pageNum" id="pb322">[<a href="#pb322">322</a>]</span>had as yet visited the country in an official capacity, when he came to get the old
’Mtoko to sign the treaty a few months before. However, he said he would consent to
our pitching our tents at a spot indicated about a mile away, and would come and visit
us and receive the rest of his gifts on the morrow.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p322width" id="p322"><img src="images/p322.jpg" alt="A COLLECTION OF COMBS" width="538" height="378"><p class="figureHead">A COLLECTION OF COMBS</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Somewhat crestfallen and highly indignant at our treatment, we packed up our things
again and hurried off as fast as we could, so that we might get our tents pitched
before night came on.
</p>
<p>The following day was advancing rapidly, and still no signs of ’Mtoko’s visit. We
were much annoyed at the loss of time and the supposed insult, so <span class="pageNum" id="pb323">[<a href="#pb323">323</a>]</span>we collected our presents together, and determined to take them and get them given,
come what might. We set off and marched behind the gift, which was carried on the
heads of many bearers. We had scarcely gone two hundred yards on our way, when men
came running to us, announcing the advent of his majesty; so we went back again to
prepare our rugs for the reception, and sat in state.
</p>
<p>Through the trees we saw him coming, with a following of about fifty men armed with
battle-axes and assegais. About two hundred yards from our camp they all seated themselves,
and held a council which we thought would never end. The result of this was an envoy
sent to state it <span class="corr" id="xd31e4293" title="Source: as">was</span> the monarch’s opinion that the white lady had bewitched the presents, for she had
been seen going to a stream and sprinkling the things with water which she had fetched
from thence; that he would nevertheless graciously receive the presents, but that
he would not keep them but give them at once to his uncle. Whilst we were making up
our minds whether we should be annoyed or amused at this message, the chief and his
men moved one hundred yards nearer to us, so we determined to await the progress of
events. Here again they stopped for another <i>indaba</i>. This time the message, that the chief would like us to send him the presents to
the spot where he was, was accompanied by a present to us of a kid and twenty pounds
of meal. This somewhat pacified us. Nevertheless we sent a message back that if the
chief wished <span class="pageNum" id="pb324">[<a href="#pb324">324</a>]</span>for the things he must come and fetch them in person. To the <i>indunas</i> who brought the message we gave a few articles for themselves.
</p>
<p>The result of this last message was instantaneous. His majesty came forthwith, but
he refused to sit on the rug prepared for him. He refused to shake hands, nay, even
look at the white lady, and during the whole of the interview he trembled so violently,
and looked so nervous, that we felt quite sorry for him.
</p>
<p>’Mtoko is a fine specimen of his race, lithe and supple of limb, but more like a timid
wild animal than a man. As he sat before us he nervously peeled a sweet potato with
his battle-axe, and looked ill at ease. Gradually, as the presents came out, his sinister
face relaxed, and in spite of himself became wreathed with smiles. Spread out before
him was an entire uniform of the Cape Yeomanry, helmet and all, with two horsehair
plumes. Then there were knives, and looking-glasses, and handkerchiefs, and shirts,
and beads, and yards of limbo; wealth, doubtless, of which he had scarce dreamt, was
now his. The impression made on him was great. He was overcome with gratitude, and
after stepping aside for a few moments’ talk with his head men, he told us that, as
a return present, a whole live bullock should be ours. Permission was given to us
to come and encamp under his kraal if we liked. His apologies were profuse, and he
even ventured to touch the white lady’s hand; and thus ended this strange interview.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb325">[<a href="#pb325">325</a>]</span>Not wishing to uproot ourselves again, we thanked him for his offer, and said we preferred
to remain where we were, but would come up and visit him on the morrow.
</p>
<p>Afterwards we learnt the cause of all ’Mtoko’s nervousness. His father had died shortly
after Mr. Selous’s visit. The common belief was that he had been bewitched; naturally
he thought that the white lady had been sent purposely to cast a glamour over him.
He had been told how these white men are ruled over by a woman, and he thought Queen
Victoria had sent a humble representative of her sex to bring about the same state
of affairs in his country. Her name was of course asked at the interview, and feeling
the flatness with which her English appellative would be received, our interpreter
promptly called her ’Msinyate, ‘the Home of the Buffaloes,’ to which high-sounding
name she answered for the rest of her stay in ’Mtoko’s country.
</p>
<p>The day was far spent when the chief left us, and we took a stroll in the cool of
the evening to a tiny Kraal, consisting only of three huts, about half a mile from
our camp. There was an air of prosperity about the place which pleased us. The huts
are better built than elsewhere, and have porches. Their granaries are wattled, and
have very well thatched roofs, and our reception was most cordial. They spread mats
for us to sit on. They brought us monkey-nuts, tamarind, and other vegetables to eat,
and seemed to think themselves greatly honoured <span class="pageNum" id="pb326">[<a href="#pb326">326</a>]</span>by a visit from the white <i>indunas</i> who had brought their chief such a fine present.
</p>
<p>Next morning we walked up to visit ’Mtoko in his kraal. The twenty huts which compose
it are girt around with a strong palisade. Each hut is large, and has a porch. ’Mtoko
and his head men were seated on a rock in the midst of it with a wood fire for lighting
their pipes. One of the <i>indunas</i> had just decorated his hair in splendid fashion, tying up his black tufts with beads,
and covering the whole with a thick coating of grease, which soaked into his matted
hair before our eyes under the strong influence of the sun. Into this circle we were
all invited, for the dread of the white lady seemed to have passed away. She presented
the monarch with some English needles, and his delight in receiving these treasures
exceeded even that which he showed on receipt of the Chartered Company’s gifts, for
in ’Mtokoland they are accustomed to use strong sharp blades of grass for needles,
on which ours were a distinct improvement.
</p>
<p>Our object to-day was to inquire into the politics of the country, and to verify the
strange stories we had heard about the priest of the lion god, the Mondoro, who is
reported to be even stronger than the chief. We wanted to learn more concerning the
cult of the lion, and where the Zimbabwe of ’Mtokoland was, where the annual sacrifices
take place to the king of beasts.
</p>
<p>The question was a delicate one, and had to be tenderly approached, knowing as we
did by this time <span class="pageNum" id="pb327">[<a href="#pb327">327</a>]</span>the extreme reluctance of the Kaffirs to disclose to white men the secrets of their
religion. A man called Benoula seemed to take the lead in everything. The ’Mtoko hardly
spoke, and looked very uncomfortable whilst the catechising was going on. The results
of our investigations were vague. The Mondoro, or lion priest, was uncle to the chief,
and he resided at Lutzi, the village by which we had passed. The old ’Mtoko on his
death-mat had left his son and heir somehow or another in tutelage to this mysterious
priest-uncle of his. When asked where the Zimbabwe was, he replied reluctantly: ‘The
Mondoro may tell you if he likes; I dare not.’ Finally, after ‘the Home of the Buffaloes’’
hair had been taken down by his majesty’s special request, we made arrangements for
Benoula to accompany us to Lutzi on the morrow and introduce us to the priest, whom
we had been so near without knowing it when we first entered the country.
</p>
<p>We took a look round the kraal before taking our leave. The cattle are all housed
in the centre of it. There was the pigeon-cote, a feature in all the villages about
here, consisting of a mud box with holes, raised on poles. Hard by dwelt a hideous
black sow with a litter of young ones in a grass sty. There was a hut for the calves
and a hut for the goats, a scene of bucolic prosperity which we had come across nowhere
else in Mashonaland.
</p>
<p>The following morning, after breakfast, we set off for Lutzi once more, armed with
presents for the lion priest, and exceedingly curious about him. <span class="pageNum" id="pb328">[<a href="#pb328">328</a>]</span>Benoula was there before us, and everyone was expecting our arrival. Presently we
were ushered into a large but rather dilapidated hut, where sat a venerable-looking
old man, who received us and our presents with great cordiality. We seated ourselves
on the ground, forming a curious assemblage: the Mondoro and his son, ’Mkateo, his
enormously fat daughter Tourla, Benoula, and one or two <i>indunas</i>, our three selves, and our interpreter. ‘I am the ’Mtoko,’ was almost the first thing
the old man said, explaining how he considered himself the rightful heir to the chiefdom.
‘Next year, when the crops are gathered in, I shall return to the kraal where my brother
died, and assume the command of the country.’ We soon saw the state of things, which
explained many points that had previously been mysterious. ’Mtokoland was threatened
with a grave political quarrel, and all the elements of civil war were present. The
elders of the country all recognise the Mondoro as their chief; whilst younger men,
with everything to gain and little to lose, affect to follow the chief whose kraal
we had visited, and whom they speak of as Bedapera at Lutzi, his own name, as distinguished
from the dynastic name of ’Mtoko.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p328width" id="p328"><img src="images/p328.png" alt="WOODEN SPOON. LUTZI" width="147" height="362"><p class="figureHead">WOODEN SPOON. LUTZI</p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb329">[<a href="#pb329">329</a>]</span></p>
<p>In his position as religious head of the community lies the Mondoro’s strength. ‘Here
is the Zimbabwe of our land, here the annual sacrifice to the Maklosi of our ancestors
now takes place;’ that is to say, wherever the chief lives, and wherever the annual
sacrifice takes place, there is the Zimbabwe of the chiefdom.
</p>
<p>Then we questioned him about the lion god, and he gave us to understand that the Mondoro
or lion god of ’Mtoko’s country is a sort of spiritual lion which only appears in
time of danger, and fights for the men of ’Mtoko; all good men of the tribe, when
they die, pass into the lion form and reappear to fight for their friends. It is quite
clear that these savages entertain a firm belief in an after-life and a spiritual
world, and worship their ancestors as spiritual intercessors between them and the
vague Muali or God who lives in Heaven.
</p>
<p>The lion of ’Mtoko is the totem of the tribe. We asked the old priest if we should
get into trouble if we shot a lion whilst in his country. ‘If a lion attacks you,’
he replied, ‘you may shoot it, for it could not be one of ours; our lions will do
the white man no harm, for they are our friends.’ There was a charming amount of dignity
and sophistry about the old Mondoro. We felt that he was a far better man to rule
the country than his nervous, superstitious nephew. Once a year this old Mondoro (the
name Mondoro is common in this country both to the sacred lions and the priest) sacrifices
a bullock and a <span class="pageNum" id="pb330">[<a href="#pb330">330</a>]</span>goat to the Maklosi or luck spirit of their ancestors. Formerly this ceremony took
place at the residence of the old chief, and now here at Lutzi; much beer is drunk
on the occasion, and it takes place in February, about the same time as the Matabele
war-dance.
</p>
<p>There is much more of the old spirit of the race about the Mondoro. He gave us the
names of three generations of ’Mtokos who had ruled here before his brother—a rare
instance of pedigree in this country; but the royal residence, Lutzi, is a miserable
place, consisting of two little kraals crowning the two summits of a bare granite
hill. One tree of sickly growth stood there, decorated, for what reason I could not
discover, with part of a woman’s bark dress, grass roots, hair, and other oddments.
Doubtless they were luck signs too, but we could gain no information on this point.
Evidence of festivities was also present in the shape of drums and long chains of
grass cases for beads, which they hang round their calves to rattle at the dances.
On a hill opposite stood a single hut, where an outlaw had lived till quite recently,
they told us.
</p>
<p>Before we took our leave the Mondoro presented us with a goat, regretting that, owing
to the bad times, he could not give us a handsomer present. We now understood several
points which had been a mystery to us before—the constant and rather deferential way
in which the ’Mtoko had spoken of his uncle, and the reason why, in the first instance,
our guides had told us that the ’Mtoko dwelt at Lutzi. Also we now <span class="pageNum" id="pb331">[<a href="#pb331">331</a>]</span>seemed thoroughly to grasp the strange cult of the lion god, a cult probably carrying
us back to the far-distant ages, when the Arabian tribes invented the system of totems,
and called the stars by their names.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e4347src" href="#xd31e4347">2</a>
</p>
<p>Monteiro and Gamitto, two Portuguese travellers, who went to Cazembe in 1831–32, throw
some light on the worship of the lion. They relate how the negroes near the Zambesi,
‘being Munyaes, subjects of Monomatapa, revere royal lions of great corpulence as
containing the souls of their ancestors. When the Munyaes discover the lions eating
their prey, they go on their knees at a distance, and creep, clapping their hands
and begging them with humility to remember their slaves, who are hungry, and that
when they were men they were always generous; so that the lions may retire and the
negroes profit by what they leave behind.’ This is again another link connecting these
people with the Zambesi and lands farther north. We were also told a story of how,
during the old ’Mtokos’ struggles with the Portuguese, lions had been seen to attack
the enemy, whilst they left the natives alone. Doubtless a faith of this kind is very
conducive to valour, and may account for the superiority of the men of ’Mtoko over
their neighbours.
</p>
<p>The two above-quoted Portuguese travellers mention many Zimbabwes on their route northwards
to Cazembe, and in another part of their work they often make mention of the Monomatapa,
especially <span class="pageNum" id="pb332">[<a href="#pb332">332</a>]</span>the Monomatapa of Chidima, whom they speak of as ‘a much decayed person, but still
respectable.’ His territory commences at Tete and goes on to Zumbo, ‘and when one
dies all make civil war, until one gets possession, and sends to the governor of Tete
to confirm his title.’
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p332width" id="p332"><img src="images/p332.png" alt="BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL" width="273" height="416"><p class="figureHead">BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>From what I can make out of the older Portuguese accounts, the district of Chidima
was formerly in the mountains to the north of ’Mtoko’s. This was the district where
the famous silver mines were supposed to be, in searching for which several Portuguese
expeditions came to grief. In fact, it would appear that ’Mtoko, Mangwendi, Makoni,
and the chiefs in this part of the country are the modern representatives of the broken-up
Monomatapa empire, who, fortunate in the possession of a rugged and mountainous country,
escaped the visitation of the Zulu hordes, who on their way southwards probably passed
by the more open high plateau of Mashonaland.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb333">[<a href="#pb333">333</a>]</span></p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p333-1width"><img src="images/p333-1.png" alt="BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL" width="510" height="221"><p class="figureHead">BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p333-2width"><img src="images/p333-2.png" alt="BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL" width="427" height="263"><p class="figureHead">BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR ’MTOKO’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Next morning, whilst we were packing for our start from ’Mtoko’s, I was informed of
the existence of some Bushman drawings under an overhanging rock about half a mile
from our camp. I hurried thither and took some hasty sketches of them. The rock is
literally covered with these drawings in colours of red, yellow, and black, which
had evidently eaten into the granite, so that the figures are preserved to <span class="pageNum" id="pb334">[<a href="#pb334">334</a>]</span>us. They represent all sorts of wild animals such as elephants, kudus, and cynocephalous
apes; these are wonderfully well executed; the figures of warriors with poised spears
and quivers of arrows are, however, grotesque. The most curious fact about them is
finding these drawings so far north, and a close examination of this district will
probably bring to light many more. The people who made these drawings inhabited all
this district and down into Manicaland. Specimens, too, are found near Fort Salisbury;
oddly enough, during our wanderings near Zimbabwe and the Sabi, we never saw any or
heard of their existence.
</p>
<p>After a ride of eight miles we reached the kraal of Kalimazondo, another son of the
late ’Mtoko. It is just a circular collection of wattled huts, all joined together
by a stockade. We alighted for a while here and sat in a hut, with a view to putting
some leading questions to the chief concerning the state of the country. He told us
that, in his opinion, his uncle the Mondoro was the rightful heir to the chiefdom,
for his father, the old ’Mtoko, had wished it, but that his brother Bedapera had said:
‘I am a man, I wish to be chief.’ All the old <i>indunas</i> and the head men of the country were on the Mondoro’s side, and he had little doubt
but that he would succeed in establishing his claim.
</p>
<p>When approached on the subject of religion, Kalimazondo grew vague and uncommunicative.
We let him know that we had seen the Mondoro, and knew <span class="pageNum" id="pb335">[<a href="#pb335">335</a>]</span>a great deal. To all this he replied: ‘I dare not tell you anything, or I should become
deaf. I like my gun, and if I was to tell you anything it would be taken away, and
I should be no man.’ Kalimazondo is a cunning man in his generation, and we saw that
we should learn no more about this strange and primitive community than it had pleased
the priest of the lion god to tell us.
</p>
<p>Close to Kalimazondo’s kraal we passed the remains of the hedges or <i>skerms</i> which Mr. Selous and his followers had erected to protect their camp when on their
visit to the old ’Mtoko, and we congratulated ourselves that it had not been our fate
to be driven thus far from headquarters.
</p>
<p>Next day we rode through an uninteresting waterless country, and encamped for the
night by a stream which formed the southern border of ’Mtoko’s country.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb336">[<a href="#pb336">336</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e4124">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e4124src">1</a></span> <a href="#ch2">Chap. II</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e4124src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e4347">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e4347src">2</a></span> Kremer, <i lang="de">Akademie der Wissenschaft</i>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e4347src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch11" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e495">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER XI</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>THE RUINED CITIES IN MANGWENDI’S, CHIPUNZA’S, AND MAKONI’S COUNTRIES</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">We were now once more in the country of Mangwendi, a chief of considerable power,
so nearly equal to ’Mtoko, they told me, that the two neighbours, like well-matched
dogs, growl but do not come to close quarters.
</p>
<p>The noticeable characteristic of this part of the country and all the way down to
Manicaland is the number of ruined fortified kraals which one comes across, culminating,
as if to a central head, at Chipunza’s. These spots have been long deserted and are
now overgrown with jungle. We visited one of these just after entering Mangwendi’s
territories; there is something about them which recalls the Great Zimbabwe—the triple
line of fortifications, the entrances slightly rounded; but then the stonework is
uneven, the walls being built of shapeless stones, roughly put together with mortar.
Here we see none of the even courses, the massive workmanship, and the evidences of
years of toil displayed In the more ancient ruins; <span class="pageNum" id="pb337">[<a href="#pb337">337</a>]</span>the walls are low, narrow, and uneven. Are we to suppose an intermediate race between
the inhabitants of Zimbabwe and the present race, who built these ruins? or are we
to imagine them to be the work of the Makalangas themselves in the more flourishing
days of the Monomatapa rule? I am decidedly myself of the latter opinion. No one who
had carefully studied the Great Zimbabwe ruins could for a moment suppose them to
be the work of the same people; yet they are just the sort of buildings an uncivilised
race would produce, who took as their copy the gigantic ruins they found in their
midst. For the next few weeks we were constantly coming across these ruins, and the
study of them interested us much.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p338width" id="p338"><img src="images/p338.png" alt="MANGWENDI’S KRAAL" width="547" height="355"><p class="figureHead">MANGWENDI’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>Mount Masunsgwe was a conspicuous landmark for us for several days about here. It
is a massive granite <i>kopje</i>, placed as a sort of spur to the range of hills which surrounds ’Mtoko’s country.
It is also covered with similar ruined stone walls belonging to a considerable town
long since abandoned. The next day we crossed a stream near a village, called the
Inyagurukwe, where the natives were busily engaged in washing the alluvial soil in
search of gold. We halted for the night by another stream, under the impression that
Mangwendi’s was only about four miles off, and that an easy day was in store for us.
But the fates willed otherwise. Shortly after passing a large village, where the inhabitants
were more than usually importunate to see my wife’s hair, screaming ‘Voudzi! voudzi!’—Hair!
hair!—as they scampered <span class="pageNum" id="pb338">[<a href="#pb338">338</a>]</span>by our side until she gratified their curiosity, we all lost our way in an intricate
maze of Kaffir paths. Our interpreter was ahead and took one way; my wife and I on
horseback, in attempting to follow him, took another; Mr. Swan on foot took another;
and what happened to the men with the donkeys we never knew, for they did not reach
Mangwendi’s till late in the afternoon, complaining bitterly of their wanderings.
We thought we were making straight for our goal, when, lo and behold! we found ourselves
at the top of a hill near one of the deserted towns, tenanted only by a tribe of baboons.
Our position was critical—we did not know which way to turn, when luckily we espied
two little Kaffir boys, who guided us to Mangwendi’s; and, <span class="pageNum" id="pb339">[<a href="#pb339">339</a>]</span>worn out with our long hot ride, we made a frugal meal by the side of a stream before
ascending to the kraal.
</p>
<p>Mangwendi’s kraal is a large one, and situated curiously on the top of a lofty ridge.
On turning to a Portuguese writer, Antonio Bocarro, who gives, in his thirteenth decade
of his chronicle of India, an interesting account of the empire of Monomatapa, he
says: <span class="corr" id="xd31e4418" title="Not in source">‘</span>The ’Monomatapa are of the Mocaranga race, a free race who do not have defensive arms,
nor fortresses, nor surrounded cities.’ This seems at first sight rather against the
theory that the Monomatapa erected these hill fortresses, but then we must bear in
mind that the Portuguese penetrated but little into these districts; and, furthermore,
we found at Chipunza’s kraal, a few days’ journey off, the natives actually constructing
similar walls around their chief kraal, evidently a heritage of stone building retained
by them from some higher form of civilisation.
</p>
<p>Bocarro gives us further information concerning the Monomatapa. He enumerates the
chief officers of the kingdom, and amongst others he mentions ‘Manguendi’ as the chief
wizard, or witch-doctor; he also mentions ‘Makoni, king of Maungo,’ as a vassal of
the Monomatapa; and on inquiry at Makoni’s we learnt that his country is still called
Unga, and the tribal name is Maunga, just as Mangwendi’s is called Noia and the tribe
Manoia. Furthermore, he mentions one Chiburga as the majordomo of a large town where
the chief’s wives were kept, probably the lofty <span class="pageNum" id="pb340">[<a href="#pb340">340</a>]</span>hill we visited near the Sabi.<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e4424src" href="#xd31e4424">1</a> Thus Bocarro furnishes us with almost positive proof that the same people dwell here
now as dwelt here under the rule of the Monomatapa, the only difference being that
the Mocaranga race has split up into numerous branches. Over two of these Mangwendi
and Makoni still exercise sway, still retaining their old dynastic names, and still
inhabiting what once was the heart of the Monomatapa country. For these reasons I
feel pretty confident in asserting that the series of ruined cities amongst which
we had now entered is what remains to us of the once powerful chiefdom of Monomatapa.
</p>
<p>In Mangwendi’s country, as in ’Mtoko’s, the great worship is sacrificing to ancestors,
called here Bondoro, a name remarkably like the lion god Mondoro. The Bondoro are
supposed to intercede for them with Muali, or God, and to get for them long life and
prosperity. In Mangwendi’s country, however, it is the head of each family who performs
the sacrifice, with the help of a man called Nanza, the witch-doctor, one of the chief’s
family, but by no means having the same power as the Mondoro in ’Mtoko’s country.
They go to the ruined town which we had accidentally visited, where probably the tribe
lived in former days. Here the bullock or goat is sacrificed, everyone present is
sprinkled with the blood, and they put out portions of the meat, together with some
beer, for the consumption of the Bondoro, and eat the rest themselves.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb341">[<a href="#pb341">341</a>]</span></p>
<p>On the anniversary of the death of the last Mangwendi they assemble from all the country
round and hold a great feast in honour of the late chief, at which the present chief
conducts the sacrifice. Dos Santos, in his ‘De Asia,’ describes almost the same thing
as taking place amongst the Mocarangas in his day: ‘Obsequies are made every year
to defunct kings; every year, in the month of September, when the first moon appears,
the king makes grand obsequies for his predecessors, who are all buried there on a
high rock where he lives, called Zimbaohe.’ This hill-set village, where the people
of Mangwendi now sacrifice, is still called by them their Zimbabwe. Dos Santos describes
the eating, drinking, and dancing just as it might be done now.
</p>
<p>Another curious custom to which Dos Santos also alludes is continued amongst them
to-day. At Mangwendi’s, during the ploughing season, they only work for five consecutive
days; they observe the sixth, and call it Muali’s day, and rest in their huts and
drink beer. The chief always announces this day of rest publicly to his tribe. Dos
Santos gives the following account of it: ‘There are days on which they are not to
work, appointed by the king, unknown to them, when they make feasts, and they call
these days Mozimos, or the days of the holy who are already dead.’ The term Mozimo
for the spirits of ancestors is still used in many parts of the country, and has been
compared with the term <i>molimo</i>, used by the Bechuana for the Supreme Being. Alvarez <span class="pageNum" id="pb342">[<a href="#pb342">342</a>]</span>mentions the <i>muzimo</i> as the god of the Monomatapa, and Gravenbroek (<span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1695) also states: ‘<span lang="la">Divinitatem aliquam Messimo dictam in lucis summo cultu venerantur.</span>’ This day of rest is observed during the ploughing season only; it may possibly be
of Semite origin, but more probably has been suggested by the obvious necessity and
advantage of intervening days of rest during a period of hard work.
</p>
<p>Mangwendi’s kraal is a very fine one, quite a long climb from the spot where we were
encamped. It is surrounded by palisades, and at the entrance is a tree filled with
trophies of the chase, the antlers of many deer, and the skins of many wild beasts,
which present quite an imposing appearance. The chief was seated on a rock outside,
chatting with his <i>indunas</i>, when we arrived. He took us into the village and had beer fetched for our delectation.
He is an extremely courteous, gentlemanly man, and seems most friendly to the white
men who come in his way; and as his kraal is not very far from the new road into Manicaland,
and as this district is very populous, he is constantly visited by traders and others.
</p>
<p>Mangwendi has ten wives, and two young girls, whom he has bought but not yet married,
and his family consists of ten sons and ten daughters, one of whom, a bright-looking
girl of about fifteen, came down to our camp to sell us meal and beer. Unfortunately
we could get little else, for the traders had bought up all the available provisions,
and from this point until we reached Umtali we suffered more from <span class="pageNum" id="pb343">[<a href="#pb343">343</a>]</span>starvation than during any part of our journeyings in Mashonaland. ’Mtoko’s bullock
was done; we could get no meat at any of the kraals, or game along our road; our coffee,
sugar, and jams were all done, and our meals, with rare exceptions, reduced themselves
to millet-meal porridge, rice, and tea, none of which were very palatable without
the ingredients of milk and sugar; and the provoking thing about Kaffir meal is that
it will not bind to make bread, so that for the staff of life cold rice made into
a shape was our only substitute. We generally kept our pockets full of the ground-nuts
(<i>arachis</i>), commonly called ‘monkey-nuts,’ which are excellent when roasted in the embers,
and capital assistants in warding off hunger.
</p>
<p>On leaving Mangwendi’s we had regretfully to part with our bearers, who had accompanied
us all the way from Kunzi’s, and engage fresh ones in their place. One of these, to
our surprise, chose to take his wife with him, but as she had to carry her baby on
her back and food for herself and her husband, she, poor thing, was so done up after
our first day’s march of seventeen miles, that her husband sent her back again.
</p>
<p>Our first camp after leaving Mangwendi’s was at a very interesting spot—an isolated
granite <i>kopje</i> called Nyanger, rising about two hundred feet above the surrounding plain. It was
entirely covered with old walls, irregular in shape, and similar to those above mentioned,
and evidently in former years a place of great strength. It had been long abandoned,
for <span class="pageNum" id="pb344">[<a href="#pb344">344</a>]</span>there were no signs of habitation thereon, and the approaches were full of <i>débris</i>. To the north-east of this <i>kopje</i> is a very curious grotto, or domed cave, entirely covered with Bushman drawings.
A kudu and a buffalo are excellently drawn, almost worthy of a Landseer, and in their
drawings one can distinctly trace three different periods of execution: (1) Crude
and now faint representations of unknown forms of animal life. (2) Deeper in colour,
and admirably executed, partly on the top of the latter, are the animals of the best
period of this art in red and yellow. (3) Inartistic representations of human beings,
which evidently belong to a period of decadence in the execution of this work.
</p>
<p>The colours are invariably red, yellow, and black. I am told that the two former are
obtained from certain coprolites found in these parts, which, when broken open, have
a yellow dust inside.
</p>
<p>In this curiously decorated cave we found also many graves formed by plastering up
holes in the rock with a hard kind of cement. We opened one of them, and found that
the corpse had been wrapped in skins and placed here. In the centre of the cave is
a large semicircular wall, entered in the middle by a rounded entrance; behind this
is a sort of palisade of grass matting placed against poles, to protect it from the
wind, and behind this are similar cement-covered graves. Now the present race do not
bury in this way, but evidently come here at certain times to keep the place in order,
and doubtless venerate the <span class="pageNum" id="pb345">[<a href="#pb345">345</a>]</span>spot as the resting-place of remote ancestors. There are also several other graves
on the flat space around Nyanger rock, piles of stones placed around a crescent-shaped
wall, which is evidently a sort of rudimentary temple in which the sacrifices take
place.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p345width" id="p345"><img src="images/p345.png" alt="BUSHMAN DRAWINGS FROM NYANGER ROCK" width="548" height="332"><p class="figureHead">BUSHMAN DRAWINGS FROM NYANGER ROCK</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>On our march that day we passed several of these cemeteries in the open <i>veldt</i> far from any trace of habitation. They are generally placed on slightly rising ground,
and always have the semicircular structure, which reminded us of the stones placed
at the village of Lutzi, where the inhabitants collected to smoke and talk, protected
from the wind. These spots are evidently still venerated, and form another of the
many problems connected with the past in this district of Africa. I think they are
the <span class="pageNum" id="pb346">[<a href="#pb346">346</a>]</span>places to which Dos Santos alludes in the following paragraph, where he refers to
the chiefs who ‘make grand obsequies to their predecessors, who are all buried there.’
In a memoir written by Signor Farao, governor of Senna in 1820, there is a curious
testimony to this theory. He writes: ‘The mountains of Magonio (Makoni?), in Quiteve,
were noted as the burial-places of the kings and queens of Quiteve, Gembe and Dombo.
The remains were carried in procession to the caves, where they were deposited alongside
the bones of former kings, and some of the most esteemed women of the deceased, or
his secretary, and some of the great people, were sacrificed at the ceremony.’
</p>
<p>Most of the granite <i>kopjes</i> in this district have been similarly fortified to Nyanger rock. Time would not permit
of our visiting many of them, but I am certain that a careful investigation of this
district would produce many valuable additions to the already large collections of
Bushman drawings. The fortifications of these rocks are generally in rows of walls
in terraces with narrow rounded entrances; they are all constructed in a rough manner,
with irregular-shaped stones joined together with cement.
</p>
<p>Near the river Chimbi, which we crossed shortly before reaching Chipunza’s kraal,
there is a particularly interesting specimen of this class of ruin. The rocky <i>kopje</i> is fortified with walls, all the nooks and crannies being carefully walled up, and
below this is a curious half-underground passage which evidently connected the fortress
with its water supply; it has <span class="pageNum" id="pb347">[<a href="#pb347">347</a>]</span>a wall on either side of it—one four feet thick, and the other eight feet thick; and
the passage is roofed over with large slabs of stone, some four and some five feet
long. This passage can now be traced for about fifty feet; it is nearly choked up
with rubbish, but the object for which it was originally constructed is obvious, as
it leads down to low swampy ground, where water could be obtained.
</p>
<p>A mile or two beyond this we alighted for a short time at a pretty village called
Makonyora, which had been surrounded by a palisade which had taken root and grown
into shady trees of considerable size. The inhabitants seemed numerous and well to
do. In this village there are many instances of walls constructed like those we had
seen in the ruined villages; the foundations for the huts and granaries also are of
stone, so that the air may pass underneath, forming neatly executed stone circles.
The various gullies between the rocks are carefully walled up, and you pass from one
collection of huts to the other through low entrances in these walls. There is no
doubt about it, that these people here possess an inherited knowledge of stone building
which exists nowhere else in Kaffirland, unless it be amongst the Basutos, who, I
am told, are skilled in stone building, and who, at a not very remote period, are
believed to have migrated from this very country. It seems to me hardly possible that
the gigantic buildings of Zimbabwe and places in this country can have existed in
their midst without the inhabitants making some attempt to <span class="pageNum" id="pb348">[<a href="#pb348">348</a>]</span>copy them; and here we have an imitation, though a poor one, in the heart of what
was the strongest chiefdom of the country.
</p>
<p>The aspect of the country is here very curious, the high level plateau (it is about
5,000 feet above sea level) is, as it were, closely sown for miles around with rugged
granite <i>kopjes</i>, some only fifty feet high, whilst others reach an elevation of several hundred feet.
They are very evenly arranged, too, as if they were the pieces for a cyclopean game
of chess. Through this region we passed, and at the eastern end of it we reached our
destination, Chipunza’s kraal, where we proposed to halt for a day or two. Chipunza’s
is a very large village, built on a gentle rise on the right bank of the Rusapi River,
with huts packed away into all sorts of snug corners amongst the rocks. Immediately
below these, and within easy reach of the river, we pitched our tents. It was a great
disappointment to us to be able to get no meat here. Our meals, which were composed
entirely of things farinaceous, were growing exceedingly monotonous, and we almost
hated the sight of the porridge-pot, which turned up with unvarying regularity. As
against this, the air at Chipunza’s was the finest I have ever breathed, exhilarating
like draughts of champagne.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p349width" id="p349"><img src="images/p349.png" alt="CHIPUNZA’S KRAAL" width="720" height="373"><p class="figureHead">CHIPUNZA’S KRAAL</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>When we reached the village we found the ladies of Chipunza with their bark blankets
tied tight around them, for it was chilly, seated in picturesque and strange groups
amongst the rocks, busily engaged in a still stranger occupation. They were burning
little <span class="pageNum" id="pb351">[<a href="#pb351">351</a>]</span>heaps of cowdung, and then spreading the results on the rocks to cool. Not understanding
what they were about we approached them, when, to our surprise, an old crone picked
up a lump of this delectable material, put it into her mouth and consumed it with
evident satisfaction, muttering, as she saw our unfeigned surprise, ‘Salt, salt; good,
good!’ and then we realised that here they use the extract of nitre from the ash as
their substitute for salt, the commodity of life for which they have the greatest
craving, but which it is hardest to obtain.
</p>
<p>In the afternoon we went to pay a visit to the chief, who received us in a sort of
inner fortress surrounded by a wall, through an opening in which, about three feet
high, and covered with large slabs of stone, we had to creep. He is a grey-haired,
refined-looking man, with manners very like, and not the least inferior to, an Arab
sheikh. He sat surrounded by his councillors, and we all set to work to clap hands
vigorously. By this time my wife had learnt to clap hands in the female fashion, namely,
crosswise, whereas previously she had disgraced herself by clapping like a man, with
the fingers straight upon one another; but, of course, the intricacies of savage etiquette
can only be acquired by practice.
</p>
<p>After a little conversation had passed between us, a woman, one of the chief’s wives,
made her appearance, bending her body humbly, and carrying a large pot full of <i>wa-wa</i>, as they term beer in this part of the country. This she presented to her lord and
master <span class="pageNum" id="pb352">[<a href="#pb352">352</a>]</span>on bended knee, after having previously drunk a little herself, to convince us that
there was no poison in it; then the chief took a drink, then his councillors, and
finally it was handed to us. We found it was lovely beer, very potent, and after our
long abstinence from anything so intoxicating, as exhilarating as the air.
</p>
<p>We were much struck by the courteous manners of the natives here. One man, on receiving
a present, bowed low and scraped the ground with his feet. There is something about
these people which points distinctly to a higher form of civilisation having existed
amongst them at a former time; and when one reads Dos Santos’s account of the Mocarangas
of Monomatapa of his day, one cannot help feeling that they are the remnant of that
higher civilisation about which the early Portuguese travellers tell us so much.
</p>
<p>‘The Portuguese,’ says Dos Santos, ‘did not enter the king’s presence, like the Kaffirs,
with deep obeisance, only with bare feet;’ and in a curious old treaty published in
the Portuguese Yellow-book, and purporting to have been made between the Monomatapa
chief Manuza and Manuel Gomes Serrao in 1629, the following stipulation is inserted:—
</p>
<p>‘The ambassadors who shall come to speak with him shall enter his Zimbahe covered
and shod (with boots on their feet) and with their arms at their sides, as if they
were before the King of Portugal. He shall give them chairs upon which to sit, and
they shall not be submitted to the ceremony of the clapping of hands.’
<span class="pageNum" id="pb353">[<a href="#pb353">353</a>]</span></p>
<p>Chipunza has another name, Chipadzi. The exact relation between these two names we
were unable to ascertain; Chipadzi, however, I believe to be the old dynastic name
of the chief. His Zimbabwe, or place of sacrifice, is about a mile from the present
village, at a spot called Chittakette, or the Chipadzi’s old town. To this place we
were to be taken on the morrow. We found it an interesting old spot, buried in trees
and with tomatoes and tobacco plants all amongst the ruined walls. It evidently had
had a wooden palisade around it, which had sprouted and produced the venerable trees,
and it had an inner fortress with walls encircling it, and low gateways through, with
large stone slabs over them. It is an excellent specimen of this rough style of fortress:
the walls are from six to eight feet thick, with loopholes out of which to shoot,
built with no attempt at keeping even courses, and with mortar. Within the fortress
are the remains of huts and granaries, as if the place had not been abandoned for
very many years.
</p>
<p>Just outside is Chipadzi’s tomb, with a tall stone erected over it, and the surrounding
ground is covered with tombs. This spot is called the Zimbabwe by the natives, where
they sacrifice annually to the Maklosi of their ancestors.
</p>
<p>We spent two days wandering amongst the granite locks around Chipunza’s kraal, and
we found evidence of a vast population having lived here at some period. Nearly every
one of the granite <i>kopjes</i> is fortified with walls, and on some of them we found <span class="pageNum" id="pb354">[<a href="#pb354">354</a>]</span>graves of cement similar to those we saw at Nyanger rock; and on the hill just behind
Chipunza’s kraal a tall stone is erected on a pile of stones, the object of which
nobody seemed inclined to tell us.
</p>
<p>How long ago it is since these walled towns were inhabited, and who inhabited them,
is, of course, a mystery. There is, however, no evidence of any great antiquity about
them; the mortar may have stood for a few centuries, but not more; and from the evidence
given us by the Portuguese, above quoted, from the continuity of certain names and
many customs, and from the fact that the present inhabitants still retain a certain
knowledge of stone building, I think it is a very reasonable assumption that this
was one of the great centres of the so-called Monomatapa Empire.
</p>
<p>After leaving Chipunza’s kraal, and crossing the River Rusapi, a ride of two hours
brought us to Makoni’s kraal. Makoni, chief of the Maunga tribe, is still one of the
most powerful potentates in this district. He, too, calls his town Zimbabwe, and it
is doubtless the same spot occupied by Makoni, chief of the Maungo, one of the great
vassals of the Monomatapa that Antonio Bocarro tells us about three centuries ago.
</p>
<p>It is probably the highest inhabited spot in Mashonaland, being 5,200 feet above the
level of the sea, just at the edge of the high plateau, where it breaks into the serrated
ridges of Manicaland. The town covers a very large area of ground, being a <span class="pageNum" id="pb355">[<a href="#pb355">355</a>]</span>conglomerate mass of huts and granaries surrounded by a palisade. We spent about an
hour resting there at a sort of public meeting-place surrounded by a wall, where the
inhabitants collected in crowds to stare at us. Most of the men had very large holes
pierced in the lobes of their ears, into which they would insert snuff-boxes of reeds,
decorated with black geometric patterns, and other articles. The women are all girt
with the same bark-fibre garments which we had seen worn in ’Mtoko’s country. Accompanied
by a swarthy rabble, we climbed a rock behind the town, from which we got an exquisite
view down into the valleys of Manica, bearing eastwards—a view of rugged mountains
tumbled together, of deep valleys and running streams—a view such as one would get
when descending from the Alps into the plain of Italy. Chief Makoni never came to
see us, and as our time was limited we had to hurry away without making his acquaintance.
</p>
<p>Almost immediately on leaving Makoni’s our road began to descend, and we entered upon
a series of richly wooded gorges, flanked by gigantic granite cliffs. On one of these
pinnacles, about the height of Makoni’s own kraal, is perched Chigono’s village, occupying
a most wonderful position. How they ever manage to drag up here a sufficiency of water
and the necessaries of life is a marvel. One thing they have in perfection is climate.
We found it hot and stuffy in the valleys, but in their mountain eyries the Kaffirs
enjoy the most perfect air that it is possible to breathe.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb356">[<a href="#pb356">356</a>]</span></p>
<p>On the third day after leaving Chipunza’s, one of our men had the good luck to shoot
an antelope, an event which was hailed with delight by all in our camp. We had never
in our lives been so long without meat, and the want of it was beginning to be felt
by all. On the fourth day we crossed the Odzi River, the boundary between Mashonaland
and Manicaland. It is a fine stream even here, with a good body of water even at the
end of the dry season, on its way to join the Sabi River, just where we touched it
a few weeks before. At the point where we crossed the Odzi the stream was sixty feet
across, and the bed is at least one hundred yards wide, and when the rains are on
it must be a terrible obstacle. Even as it was we had to unload the donkeys and carry
their burdens across, which means, when the afternoon is advancing, a halt for the
night.
</p>
<p>A ride of twelve miles brought us next day to the kraal of ’Mtasa, the most powerful
of all the Manica chiefs. He is the paramount lord of the Nica tribe, which gives
its name to the country, and dwells in the heart of the most mountainous district
we had as yet traversed. A mass of mountains, known to the natives as Mount Yenya,
occupies the heart of his country. ’Mtasa’s kraal itself is over 4,000 feet above
the sea level, and above this the rocky mountains tower 2,000 feet at least. Here,
though not actually as high as Makoni’s, you feel much higher, looking down into the
deep valleys below, and seeing no high plateau behind you. Amongst these mountains
<span class="pageNum" id="pb357">[<a href="#pb357">357</a>]</span>lie numerous scattered kraals, excellent grazing-ground for cattle, and from marauding
neighbours ’Mtasa is free. Nevertheless, during the last two years poor ’Mtasa has
had rather a bad time of it, being the bone of contention between the Portuguese and
English chartered companies. Early in 1891, in the very centre of this kraal, a small
English contingent captured Andrade, Gouveia, and the representatives of the Mozambique
Company, and now the British flag floats over it.
</p>
<p>’Mtasa’s kraal is quite one of the most extraordinary ones we had yet visited, being
a nest of separate villages, each surrounded by its own stockade, hidden away amongst
granite boulders beneath the shade of a lofty mountain. It is almost impossible to
form any idea of the exact extent of this place, so hidden away is it amongst trees
and rocks, and so intricate are its approaches; but, if report tells truly, which
it does not always do in South Africa, it is one of the largest native centres in
the country. We wandered up to a village the first afternoon, a considerable climb
from our camp. Little groups of natives sat chattering under the shade of open huts,
or just roofs on piles, the rudimentary form of the café or the club: there were pigeon-cotes
on piles in all directions, and at every turn we found ourselves blocked by palisades,
which caused us to retrace our steps; so, as we intended to stay another day here,
we contented ourselves with gazing at the magnificent view, the peaked heights of
the Yenya range, the <span class="pageNum" id="pb358">[<a href="#pb358">358</a>]</span>deep wooded valley below with its dashing stream, and far away in the horizon the
distant blue Manica mountains. Certainly no kraal we had as yet visited enjoys such
excellent views as ’Mtasa’s. The huts here are large and roomy, at the side they have
two tall decorated posts to support shelves for their domestic produce; most of them
have two doors, and with the dense shade of many trees above them they are exceedingly
picturesque.
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure floatLeft p358width" id="p358"><img src="images/p358.png" alt="DECORATED POST" width="105" height="542"><p class="figureHead">DECORATED POST</p>
</div><p>
</p>
<p>On our second visit to the kraals we met ’Mtasa’s son, who regretted that his aged
father was ill just then, and had gone away for change of air. We took leave of him,
and climbed up through rocks and through palisade after palisade, shutting off the
various kraals from one another; one of these we entered by a curious gateway made
by swinging beams, and penetrated into the headquarters of the old chief. By this
time we noticed that the people began to glare at us unpleasantly and audibly to grumble.
Seated in rows on the rocks, they chattered to us like angry monkeys, but we went
on without heeding them. One man, with a bayonet fixed on to his rifle, followed unpleasantly
close behind us; and then, as we were about to penetrate into what I suppose formed
<span class="pageNum" id="pb359">[<a href="#pb359">359</a>]</span>their innermost recesses, ’Mtasa’s son, who, by the way, had had more beer than was
good for him, came up to us in hot haste, and peremptorily commanded us to depart.
Again he reiterated the statement that his father was away, and during his absence
none could see the royal kraal; so, somewhat crestfallen, we turned back again and
saw no more. Afterwards we were informed that the old ’Mtasa was there all the time,
but, as he had suffered so much lately from the conflicting interests of England and
Portugal, he thought it best not to see us, for fear we might make him sign some new
treaty against his will.
</p>
<p>Of all the natives we had met during our wanderings, those of ’Mtasa’s pleased us
least; they appeared to us to be completely wanting in all delicacy of feeling, and
had to be driven by force from our tents. They seemed to us to be an ill-bred, impudent
race, and though their home was so lovely we left it without regret. Somehow, too,
our visit to ’Mtasa’s kraal was altogether unsatisfactory; we left it with the consciousness
that there were mysteries in it which we had not yet explored. At the very last moment,
just as we were packing up our things, I chanced to see on a rock close by our camp
some more of the Bushman drawings, grotesque figures of men with bows and arrows and
deer grazing, in the usual colours of red and yellow. I feel confident that in the
massive mountain behind the kraal some more fortunate travellers will find objects
of interest which <span class="pageNum" id="pb360">[<a href="#pb360">360</a>]</span>will well repay investigation. We have distinctly unpleasant recollections of the
place, as we have also of a certain dangerous slippery drift or ford across the River
Odzani, which we found about half way between ’Mtasa’s and the B.S.A. camp at Umtali.
We had to take off our shoes and stockings and lead our horses across the slippery
rocks; they, poor things, slipped at every step and trembled with fright. As for our
donkeys, they subsided altogether, and had to be unloaded and almost carried across.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb361">[<a href="#pb361">361</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e4424">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e4424src">1</a></span> <a href="#ch8">Chap. VIII</a>.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e4424src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ch12" class="div1 last-child chapter"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e506">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">CHAPTER XII</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST</i></h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">We reached Umtali on October 24, just a month after leaving Fort Salisbury. We were
distinctly weary and wayworn, and having had but little food of late we partook of
the refreshments kindly set before us by the officers of the Chartered Company with,
to us, unparalleled heartiness. At Umtali we pitched our tents near a stream with
every intention, as time would permit, of taking a few days of rest and retrospect
before starting on the arduous journey down to the coast.
</p>
<p>We had now travelled through the greater part of Mashonaland, as, I suppose, the new
country must inevitably be called; we had studied the archæology and anthropology
of the districts through which we had passed with all the diligence that hard travelling
and hard work would allow. Mr. Swan had constructed a map of the route from observations
and bearings taken at every possible opportunity by day and by night; and at the same
time we had formed opinions on the country from our own point of view, perhaps all
the more unbiassed because we were not <span class="pageNum" id="pb362">[<a href="#pb362">362</a>]</span>in search of gold, neither had we pegged out any claims for future development.
</p>
<p>That the country is a magnificent one, apart from gold, I have no hesitation in saying.
Any country in such a latitude, and at such an elevation, well watered, with prolific
soil, healthy and bracing, if ordinary comforts are attainable, could not fail to
be. The scenery is in many parts, as I have previously described, very fine; there
is abundance of timber, excellent prospects for cereals, and many kinds of ore exist
which will come in for future development; and gold is there too. On that point I
am perfectly satisfied; whether in large or small quantities, whether payable or unpayable,
is a matter which can only be decided by years of careful prospecting and sinking
of shafts, not by hasty scratching on the surface or the verdict of so-called ‘experts’
after a hurried visit. That gold was there in very large quantities is also certain,
from the vast acres of alluvial soil, turned over, and the countless shafts sunk in
remote antiquity.
</p>
<p>To carry out what is necessary for this possible future development, or, perhaps,
to speak more correctly, resuscitation of this country, an easy access is indispensable,
and the great check to this progress hitherto has been the absence of railways in
South Africa on the eastern seaboard, the natural and easiest entrance to the country
being in the hands of the listless Portuguese. Progress is impossible with Kimberley
as a base of operations and a thousand miles <i>trek</i> over difficult and swampy roads before <span class="pageNum" id="pb363">[<a href="#pb363">363</a>]</span>the scene of action is reached. In Western America the railway is the first thing,
development comes next; and inasmuch as the Chartered Company have tried the converse
of this—to put the cart before the horse, to use a familiar simile—they have met with
innumerable difficulties at the very outset.
</p>
<p>Having entered the country by the weary waggon-road through Bechuanaland, and having
left it by the now somewhat arduous Pungwe route, I can confidently affirm that this
latter is the only possible route; and I now propose to describe it as it at present
exists, feeling sure that in years to come, when the railway hurries the traveller
up to Umtali, when the venomous tsetse-fly no longer destroys all transport animals,
when lions cease to roar at night, and the game has retired to a respectful distance,
a back glimpse at the early days of this route will be historically interesting.
</p>
<p>Umtali is the natural land terminus of this route, as Beira is its legitimate port.
Umtali, so called from a rivulet which flows below it, was, when we were there, a
scattered community of huts, now brought together in a ‘township’ at a more favourable
spot, about five miles distant from the former site, which township the British South
Africa Company hope to call Manica, and to make it the capital of that portion of
Manicaland which they so dexterously, to use an Africander term, ‘jumped’ from the
Portuguese. Of all their camps Umtali was the most favourably situated that we visited,
enjoying delicious air, an immunity <span class="pageNum" id="pb364">[<a href="#pb364">364</a>]</span>from swamps and fevers, lovely views, and many flowers. On the ridge, where the camp
huts stood exposed to the violent and prevailing blasts of the south-east winds, which
descend in furious gusts from the surrounding mountains, stood also the guns taken
from the Portuguese, nine in all, and presenting a formidable enough appearance, until
we learnt that they were useless then, for the pins were abstracted before capture.
Far away on the hill slopes were the huts of the original settlers; the bishop’s palace
likewise, a daub hut standing in the midst of a goodly mission farm. The hospital,
with the sisters’ huts, crowned another eminence, and the newly made fort stood on
the highest point, from which glorious views could be obtained over the sea of Manica
mountains, the rich red soil and green vegetation, so pleasant a change to the eye
after the everlasting grey granite <i>kopjes</i> of Mashonaland and its uniform vegetation.
</p>
<p>Of ancient Portuguese remains there are several in the neighbourhood of Umtali fort,
where centuries ago the pioneers held their own for awhile against native aggression.
To-day, if you dine at the officers’ mess at Umtali, you find evidences of Portugal
of another nature. You sit on Portuguese chairs and feed off Portuguese plates obtained
from the loot at Massi-Kessi; and when the governor of that district came to pay an
amicable visit to the governor of Umtali, they had nothing to seat him on save his
own chairs, nothing to feed him off save his own plates, and nothing to give him to
eat save his own tinned <span class="pageNum" id="pb365">[<a href="#pb365">365</a>]</span>meats. But Portuguese politeness rose to the occasion, and no remarks were made.
</p>
<p>Crossing a stream below the fort, we found ourselves amidst a collection of circular
daub huts and stores, on either side of what a facetious butcher, who dealt largely
in tough old transport oxen, had termed in his advertisement ‘Main Street.’ Here you
might pay enormous prices for the barest necessities of life, and drink at old Angus’s
bar a glass of whisky at the same price you could get a bottle for in England. Scotch
is the prevailing accent here, and I think the greatest gainers out of Mashonaland,
in the first year of its existence, were those canny traders who loaded waggons with
jams and drink, and sold them at fabulous prices to hungry troopers and thirsty prospectors.
Old Angus was a typical specimen of this class, a sandy-haired little Scotchman, well
up in colonial ways, who kept two huts, in one of which eating, drinking, and gossip
were always to be found; whilst the other was divided into three bare cells, and called
an hotel.
</p>
<p>Such was the first Umtali, primitive and fascinating in its rawness. Now these huts
are abandoned to the rats and the rain, and a new Umtali of doubtful expansion has
been built five miles away.
</p>
<p>Our journey from Umtali to Beira was one which required much forethought. First, we
had much luggage, which we did not wish to leave behind or bury on the way, as others
had been obliged to do; secondly, my wife did not feel inclined to do the one <span class="pageNum" id="pb366">[<a href="#pb366">366</a>]</span>hundred and eighty miles on foot, through heat and swamp, in tropical Africa; and
thirdly, the Kaffir bearers were scarce, and especially—at that season of the year,
when their fields wanted ploughing—apt to run away at awkward moments. So the services
of the homely ass were brought into requisition. The ass would die of the fly-bite,
everyone told us, but not until it had deposited us safely in Beira. Consequently
our eleven asses were retained in our service and considered in the light of the railway
tickets of the future, to be used and thrown away. It seemed horribly cruel, I must
admit, to condemn eleven asses to certain death; but then, what are animals made for
but to lay down their lives to satisfy the requirements of man in his dire emergencies?
</p>
<p>A cart was constructed on two firm wheels, the wonder of its day. Eight donkeys were
harnessed therein, with gear made out of every imaginable scrap. Three donkeys trotted
gaily by its side, to be brought into requisition in case of sore backs and other
disasters; and one wet evening we despatched our hopeful cart with our blessing on
its road to the coast. It would take three or four days getting by the waggon-road
to Massi-Kessi, whilst we could cross the mountains in one. So next morning, we on
foot and my wife on horseback, started by the mountain road for Massi-Kessi, and got
there as evening was coming on. A good walk in any of the mountainous districts of
the British Isles would have been just the same. A drenching mist obscured every vision,
the paths <span class="pageNum" id="pb367">[<a href="#pb367">367</a>]</span>were slippery and uneven; occasionally a glimpse at a stream with bananas waving in
the mist, or at a Kaffir kraal, would dispel the homelike illusion, and bring us back
to Africa again. Towards evening the aggravating mist cleared away, and gave us a
splendid panorama of the surrounding mountains as we approached Massi-Kessi and entered
the valley of the River Revwe. Just here we walked for miles over ground which had
been worked for alluvial gold in the olden days, the soil being honeycombed with low
holes, and presenting the appearance of a ploughed field with circular furrows.
</p>
<p>Certainly the Portuguese, or rather the Mozambique Company, are to be congratulated
on the possession of such a paradise as this Revwe Valley—fertile in soil, rich in
water, glorious in its views over forest-clad mountains; and it is not to be wondered
at that they keenly resented the temporary appropriation of it. Massi-Kessi and its
neighbourhood are rich in reminiscences of the Portuguese past; the new fort, where
the new company has its store, was built out of the remains of an old Portuguese fort,
around which you may still pick up fragments of Nankin porcelain, relics of those
days, now long since gone by, when the Portuguese of Africa, India, and the Persian
Gulf lived in the lap of luxury, and fed off porcelain brought by their trading-ships
from China. Higher up in the mountain valleys are forts and roads of this occupation.
As in the Persian Gulf, as in Goa and elsewhere, the Portuguese influence vanished
<span class="pageNum" id="pb368">[<a href="#pb368">368</a>]</span>in East Africa after her union with Spain and the consequent drafting off of her soldiers
to the wars in Flanders; barely a phantom of her former power remained to her in the
province of Mozambique. A few futile expeditions under Barretto, Fernandez, and others
were destroyed either by the natives or by fever, during one of which the legend is
still told that the defenders of this fort of Massi-Kessi were obliged to cast bullets
out of gold nuggets when cheaper material came to an end. After this the inland country
was practically abandoned to the savages. Old treaties existed but were not renewed;
lethargy seemed to have taken entire possession of the few remaining Portuguese who
were left here, a lethargy from which they were rudely awakened by the advent of the
Chartered Company. What better argument do we want for the reoccupation of this country
by a more enterprising race than these forts abandoned and in ruins, and the treaties
with savage chiefs long since neglected—consigned to the national archives? The little
episode of Massi-Kessi is certainly one which deserves to be engraven on our national
records, though it arose from a mistake, and the ground gained had ultimately to be
abandoned; nevertheless these facts do in no way detract from the bravery of the Chartered
Company’s men.
</p>
<p>Forty Englishmen of troop A, under the command of Captain Hayman, were stationed about
1,500 yards from the fort at one o’clock on the day of the fight. Messengers were
sent from the Portuguese bidding <span class="pageNum" id="pb369">[<a href="#pb369">369</a>]</span>them retire, but Captain Hayman said his orders were to the contrary, and he could
not. Thereupon the Portuguese force, mustering 150 white men and 300 blacks, advanced,
and the action began. At five o’clock they retreated, with many killed and wounded,
but not one single Englishman suffered. Next morning our troops were surprised to
find that the Portuguese flag was not up, and on marching to the fort they found it
abandoned. Here it was that they took the guns we had seen at Umtali and 110,000 rounds
of ammunition. The victorious troops pushed on as far as Chimoia’s, and would have
driven the Portuguese out of the country had they not then been met by orders to retreat.
Massi-Kessi was also eventually abandoned, and by the recent treaty is included in
the dominions of the Portuguese Chartered Company. In the store, however, one of the
<abbr title="British South Africa">B.S.A.</abbr> troopers carved the following memento of his visit before taking his departure:—
</p>
<p></p>
<div class="figure p369width"><img src="images/p369.png" alt="" width="195" height="258"><p class="first">R V I
</p>
<p>A TROOP
</p>
<p>1 B.S.A.C.P.
</p>
<p>20 Nov. ’90. </p>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb370">[<a href="#pb370">370</a>]</span></p>
<p>The tradition of good living is still maintained by the Portuguese officials at Massi-Kessi.
Never saw I a greater contrast in seventeen miles than that offered by the fare provided
at the British camp at Umtali, and that placed before us by the kind Portuguese commandant
at Massi-Kessi; here we had six courses of meat and excellent wines, and other, to
us, unwonted luxuries. They have farms for vegetables, and many head of cattle around;
they have their natives under complete control, and make them work; they build large
roomy huts, but the commandant’s apologies because we had to sit on wooden boxes,
not on chairs, made us blush, for we knew that the said chairs were there once, but
now were gracing the British mess-room at Umtali.
</p>
<p>When speaking of roughing it in the interior, the want of food and the necessaries
of life, Commandant Béthencourt was slightly sarcastic. ‘What strange people you English
are to do such things!’ he said. ‘We Portuguese might, perhaps, do them for our country,
but for a Company—never!’
</p>
<p>Now we started in good earnest for the coast, refreshed by our three days’ rest at
Massi-Kessi under the kind roof of the Portuguese; our cart had arrived, and our eleven
donkeys and men looked fit, despite the evil road they had had to traverse.
</p>
<p>Two roads from here were open to us to Beira—one by the Pungwe, the other by the Buzi
River. We hesitated somewhat in our choice, for the latter, we <span class="pageNum" id="pb371">[<a href="#pb371">371</a>]</span>were told, was less swampy, and the fertile district of Umliwan would have interested
us—where they grow the best tobacco in these parts, and the prospects of which for
agricultural purposes, they said, are brilliant; but, as the season was growing late,
and the rains might come on any day, we decided on taking the quicker and more frequented
route. Moreover, we were anxious to witness for ourselves the calamities which had
befallen Messrs. Heany and Johnson on their pioneer route, and to form our own opinion
as to its possibility for the future.
</p>
<p>Our first halt was at the Mineni River, a tributary of the Revwe, which we reached
after an easy journey, marked only by the upsetting of our cart when we least expected
it, an accident which occurred for the first and only time. The Mineni is a rapid
stream, flanked by rich tropical vegetation, with graceful bamboos and lovely ferns
overhanging the water; it supplied a deficiency we had long felt in Mashonaland scenery,
namely, water in conjunction with mountains and rich vegetation. The greens are peculiarly
vivid here, and the red young leaves of some of the trees give the appearance of autumnal
tints, and form a feature peculiar to African landscape. In its rocky bed we dared
to bathe without fear of crocodiles, an ever-present terror to those who venture into
the sluggish sandy pools of Eastern Africa.
</p>
<p>Messrs. Heany and Johnson undoubtedly did good work in preparing their road, for which
work we probably are the only people who are devoutly thankful, <span class="pageNum" id="pb372">[<a href="#pb372">372</a>]</span>for ours is the only wheeled vehicle which has traversed it in its entirety since
the single pioneer coach went up to Umtali, after infinite difficulty and weeks of
disaster, with such sorry tales of fever, fly, and swamp, that no waggons have since
ventured to repeat the experiment. The trees which they had cut down, and the culverts
which they had made over the <i>dongas</i>, assisted us materially, and we stepped along our road right merrily.
</p>
<p>The farther we went the more reason we had to be thankful for our frail cart and homely
asses. Others we passed in dire distress whose bearers had deserted them, and who
could not find more: we overtook one party holding solemn conclave as to what they
should throw away, what they should bury, and what they could possibly manage to take
on. Boxes, containing liquor, clothes, and other commodities which could be dispensed
with, are frequently found on the road, telling their tale of desertion by bearers
and acute misery of the possessors.
</p>
<p>He who first started the evil plan of paying these dark bearers in advance ought for
ever to be held up to public obloquy. The Kaffir, doubtless, has been often cheated
by the white man, for many unscrupulous individuals have traversed this road from
Umtali to Beira, and the black man was wise in his generation when he insisted on
payment before undertaking the journey; but now he has too dangerous an opportunity
for retaliation, of which he takes frequent advantage, and many are the cases of desertion
<span class="pageNum" id="pb373">[<a href="#pb373">373</a>]</span>at awkward points. A white man, stricken with fever, had to pay his bearers over and
over again before he could persuade them to go on; the Sisters on their way to Umtali
were deserted at Chimoia; and at the season of the year when the fields are to be
ploughed they develop a still greater tendency to this unscrupulous behaviour.
</p>
<p>The Portuguese manage their affairs far better than we do. Troops of so-called convicts
are shipped from their West African provinces to those on the east coast, and <i>vice versâ</i>, so that in both places they have ready-made slaves to carry their baggage and their
<i>mashilas</i>, or travelling hammocks. The Portuguese word is law with their black subjects, whereas
the unfortunate Englishman has to pay 25<i>s.</i> or 2<i>l.</i> for a bearer, who will carry sixty pounds, but will desert when the fancy takes him.
Furthermore, the Englishman dare not treat his nigger as he deserves; if he did, he
would be had up at once before the Portuguese magistrates, and be sure to get the
worst of it. Before the Pungwe route can be made available, even for the lightest
traffic, this order of things must cease. The native bearer is undoubtedly a fine
specimen of humanity. He will carry on his head weights of surprising size, which
it requires two men to lift up to its exalted position; he runs along at a rapid pace,
and does his twenty-five to thirty miles a day with infinite ease; and if the desertion
and payment question were settled, there would not be so many thousands of pounds’
worth of valuable <span class="pageNum" id="pb374">[<a href="#pb374">374</a>]</span>stuff spoiling at Beira, and much wanted at Umtali. Each chief ought to be compelled
to supply a fixed number of bearers at a fixed tariff, and cases of desertion should
be severely punished. But the way to do this is not clear as yet, for the Portuguese
do not wish it, and to the British mind this form of compulsory labour might savour
too much of slavery.
</p>
<p>With our cart we did eighteen and twenty miles a day; quite far enough for the pedestrian
in this warm climate. The first hour’s walk, from 6 to 7 <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, was always delicious, before the full power of the sun was felt; the rest of the
day was atrociously hot, especially when our road led us through steaming tropical
forests and rank vegetation. Luckily for us at this season of the year the long grass
in the open <i>veldt</i> was all burnt, and the stifling experience of walking through eight or ten feet of
grass and getting no view whatsoever was spared us.
</p>
<p>Shade for our midday halts was always precarious. African trees have the character
of giving as little shade as possible, and this we found to be invariably the case.
Luckily, water is everywhere abundant, and we could assuage our thirst with copious
draughts of tea.
</p>
<p>The native kraals on this road are highly uninteresting; the inhabitants are wanting
altogether in that artistic tendency displayed in Mashonaland, which showed itself
in carved knives, snuff-boxes, and weapons. A chief named Bandula occupies a commanding
<span class="pageNum" id="pb375">[<a href="#pb375">375</a>]</span>position on a high range which we passed on our left, at the foot of which flows a
stream called the Lopodzi, which delighted us with its views over the Nyangombwe Mountains,
and offended us with its swampy banks, where the frogs croaked as loud as the caw
of the rooks in our woods at home.
</p>
<p>Chimoia’s kraal is a sort of half-way halt, where all waggons are now left before
entering the much-dreaded ‘fly belt;’ and here my wife parted reluctantly with her
horse, and transferred herself and her saddle to the back of one of the three loose
asses which accompanied our cart. Most people seem to have two or three asses in their
train, for fear of being utterly helpless in case of the desertion of their blacks,
and all are prepared for their ultimate demise, either by the violence of the lion
or the bite of the fly. One ass at Chimoia’s distinguished itself by seizing its master’s
sugar-bag, and consuming it and its contents with all the greater avidity when the
master and his stick turned up. All laughed; but all who had experienced the great
calamity of being without sugar in this land felt deep compassion for the victim.
</p>
<p>Chimoia’s is a scattered kraal, poor and destitute: clusters of round huts with low
eaves, and doors through which one has to crawl on hands and knees.
</p>
<p>We could get no meal here, as everyone had told us we should, and when talking over
our supplies the faces of our men grew long and anxious; and if <span class="pageNum" id="pb376">[<a href="#pb376">376</a>]</span>it had not been for the kindness of other white men whom we met on our way down, famine
would have been added to our other discomforts; but good fellowship and spontaneous
liberality are the characteristics of all those Englishmen who have been up country,
and at one time or another known what it is to be without food. At Chimoia’s ends
the pleasant traffic in beads and cloth, which for months past had kept our money
in our pockets. Here a rupee is asked for every commodity; and some day surprising
hoards of these coins will be found in the Kaffir kraals near the coast, for they
never spend them, neither do they wear them as ornaments, and it is a marvel to all
what they do with them. The vegetation is very fine around Chimoia’s, and the land
appears wonderfully fertile. On the top of a strangely serrated ridge of mountains
behind the village is a deserted Portuguese fort, and a flagstaff with nothing floating
therefrom.
</p>
<p>Beyond Chimoia’s the streams grow more sluggish, and emit more fœtid odours, suggestive
of fevers. Ragged-leaved bananas, bamboos, and tree-ferns luxuriate in all these streams,
which work their way in deep channels, or <i>dongas</i>, across the level country.
</p>
<p>The fall is now scarcely perceptible, and the long flat belt which girdles Africa
is entered, the much-dreaded low <i>veldt</i>, teeming with swamps, game, and tsetse-fly. At one time you are walking through a
forest of bamboos, making graceful arches overhead with their long canes, and recalling
pictures of Japan; <span class="pageNum" id="pb377">[<a href="#pb377">377</a>]</span>at another time you go through palm forests, and then comes a stretch of burning open
country; and at night-time, for the first time, we heard the lions roar. We lighted
huge camp-fires and trembled for the safety of our eleven donkeys, for which animals
lions are supposed to have a particular predilection.
</p>
<p>Mandigo’s kraal is twenty-four miles from Chimoia’s, and to us was equally uninteresting
and equally unproductive of the much-needed supplies. Some say the fly only begins
here, and certainly we saw none ourselves till after Mandigo’s; and from here to Sarmento
we saw plenty of it. The tsetse-fly is grey, about the size of an ordinary horse-fly,
with overlapping wings. Our donkeys, poor things, got many bites, and we felt grieved
at their prospective deaths. We provided them with the only remedy of which we could
hear, namely, a handful of salt every night; but how this is supposed to act in counter-acting
the bite of the fly I am at a loss to imagine.
</p>
<p>Certainly this fly has many peculiarities. All domesticated quadrupeds—horses, oxen,
and dogs—die from it when brought up country; whereas zebras, buffaloes, and native
curs flourish amongst it with impunity, and its bite has not so much effect upon human
beings as that of a common midge.
</p>
<p>Ample evidence of the ravages of this venomous insect are visible on the roadside.
Dozens of waggons lie rotting in the <i>veldt</i>, bearing melancholy testimony to the failure of Messrs. Heany and <span class="pageNum" id="pb378">[<a href="#pb378">378</a>]</span>Johnson’s pioneer scheme. Everywhere lie the bleaching bones of the oxen which dragged
them; and at Mandigo’s is an abandoned hut filled to overflowing with the skins of
these animals, awaiting the further development of the Pungwe traffic to be converted
into ropes, or <i>reims</i>, as they are usually termed in South Africa. Fully 2,000<i>l.</i> worth of waggons, we calculated, as we passed by on one day’s march, lies in the
<i>veldt</i>, ghostlike, as after a battle.
</p>
<p>Then there are Scotch carts of more or less value, and a handsome Cape cart, which
Mr. Rhodes had to abandon on his way up to Mashonaland, containing in the box seat
a bottle labelled ‘Anti-fly mixture,’ a parody on the situation.
</p>
<p>But the greatest parody of all is at Sarmento itself, a Portuguese settlement on the
banks of the Pungwe. Here two handsome coaches, made expressly in New Hampshire, in
America, for the occasion, lie deserted near the Portuguese huts. They are richly
painted with arabesques and pictures on the panels; ‘Pungwe route to Mashonaland’
is written thereon in letters of gold. The comfortable cushions inside are being moth-eaten,
and the approaching rains will complete the ruin of these handsome but ill-fated vehicles.
Meanwhile the Portuguese stand by and laugh at the discomfiture of their British rivals
in the thirst for gold. Even the signboard, with ‘To Mashonaland,’ is in its place;
and all this elaborate preparation for the pioneer route has been rendered abortive
by that venomous <span class="pageNum" id="pb379">[<a href="#pb379">379</a>]</span>little insect the tsetse-fly. In his zeal to carry out his contract, Major Johnson
committed a great error and entailed an enormous amount of misery when he telegraphed
that the Pungwe route was open, and circulated advertisements to that effect, giving
dates and hours which were never carried out.
</p>
<p>Heaps of people, for the most part poor and impecunious, flocked to this entrance
to their Eldorado, and after waiting without anything and in abject misery at Chimoia’s
had to return to Mapanda’s, where the condition of affairs was desperate—people dying
of fever, the doctor himself ill, and no food, for the Portuguese governor of Neves
Ferreira, Colonel Madera, boycotted the English and forbade the natives to bring them
provisions. Assistance was brought to them by Dr. Todd, of the <i>Magicienne</i>; but many died, and the rest, disappointed and penniless, had to return to Capetown.
</p>
<p>The River Pungwe is imposing at Sarmento, its bed being nearly two hundred yards across,
and the view of the reaches up and down from the verandah where the Portuguese governor
has his meals <i>al fresco</i> is fairly striking. But the Pungwe is imposing nowhere else where we saw it, being
a filthy, muddy stream, flowing between mangrove swamps, relieved occasionally by
a tall palm and villages on piles; the surroundings are perfectly flat, and its repulsive
waters were until lately plied only by the tree canoes of the natives. Crocodiles
and hippopotami revel in its muddy waters, and on its banks game is abundant <span class="pageNum" id="pb380">[<a href="#pb380">380</a>]</span>enough to satisfy the most ardent sportsman. Deer of every conceivable species are
to be seen still quietly grazing within shot of the road; buffaloes, zebras, lions,
hyenas, wild pigs, nay, even the elephant, may be found in this corner of the world.
Disappointed as the sportsman may have been with the results of his exploits in Mashonaland
and the high <i>veldt</i>, he will be amply rewarded for the fatigues of his journey to Beira by finding himself
in a country which would appear to produce all the kinds of wild animals that came
to Adam for their names. One herd of zebra, numbering about fifty, stood staring at
us so long, at a distance of not more than a hundred yards, that we were able to photograph
them twice. The flesh of the zebra is eatable, and we, with our limited larder, greatly
enjoyed a zebra steak when one was shot. A little farther on a <i>gnu</i>, or blue <i>hartebeest</i>, as the Dutchmen call it, stood and contemplated us with almost as much curiosity
as we manifested in seeing him so near our path. But, for my part, no amount of game
or quaint tropical sights would compensate for the agonies of the walk from Sarmento
to Mapanda’s across the shadeless burning plain, beneath a torrid, scorching sun.
Now and again we got shelter from the burning rays beneath the wild date-palms, a
very pleasing feature in the landscape, varied by the fan-palms, with their green
feather-like leaves and bright orange stalks, covered with similarly coloured fruit.
When ripe the fruit becomes dark brown, like the cultivated date; and though we ate
quantities, we did <span class="pageNum" id="pb381">[<a href="#pb381">381</a>]</span>not get very considerable satisfaction from the consumption. Then a few delightful
moments of repose would be passed by a sluggish stream, almost hidden by its rich
jungle of shade; but on these last days of our long tramp we did not care to delay,
but pushed on eagerly to reach the corrugated iron palaces of Mapanda, where we should
find the river and the steamer.
</p>
<p>Mapanda’s is, indeed, a sorry place: not a tree to give one shade, only a store or
two, built of that unsightly corrugated iron so much beloved by the early colonists
of South Africa, and a few daub huts. It is a paradise only for those who arrive weary
and worn from the interior, and for the sportsman, affording him a <i>pied-à-terre</i> in the very midst of the land where ‘the deer and the antelope roam.’ It has, however,
certain points on which it justly prides itself. Firstly, it is the only spot for
miles around which is not under water when the floods are out, for the banks of the
Pungwe are fairly high here. Secondly, the river is navigable up to here for small
steamers, even in the driest season; and, uninviting though it is at present, Mapanda
may have a future before it.
</p>
<p>We had three days to wait at Mapanda’s before the little steamer <i>Agnes</i> would come up to take us away, and these three days were not without their excitements.
</p>
<p>Three lions penetrated one night into the heart of the camp, and partially consumed
three donkeys<span class="pageNum" id="pb382">[<a href="#pb382">382</a>]</span>—not ours, we are thankful to say, but those of a wicked Polish Jew, who had given
infinite trouble to the English there, by causing an innocent Briton to be arrested
by the Portuguese on a charge of theft; on which account he (the Jew) was well ducked
in the Pungwe, and no one was sorry when the discriminating lions chose his donkeys
for their meal; nay, many expressed a wish that the owner himself had formed part
of the banquet. The next night the three lions, which had been lurking during the
day in the jungle by the river, came to visit us again, with a view to demolishing
what they and the vultures had left of the Hebrew’s donkeys. One of the three visitors
was shot, but he got away, and we heard no more of them.
</p>
<p>Opposite the British colony at Mapanda is a large island forty miles long by twenty
at its widest; this island is formed by the Pungwe and a branch of the same known
by the Kaffir name of Dingwe-Dingwe. The island is perfectly flat, covered with low
brushwood here and there, and long grass. It abounds in game; and on it the chief
Mapanda has his kraal, having removed thither when the English came to settle at his
old one on the banks of the river. One day we devoted to visiting this kraal, performing
part of the journey in a native canoe which we borrowed—just the hollow stem of a
large tree—which oscillated so much under our inexperienced hands that we momentarily
expected it to upset and hand us over to the crocodiles; so we effected a hasty <span class="pageNum" id="pb383">[<a href="#pb383">383</a>]</span>landing in the swampy jungle and proceeded on foot.
</p>
<p>Mapanda’s own village consists of only eight bamboo huts, built close to a tall palm-tree;
in the centre of the huts is a raised platform, on which the grass-woven granaries
of the community are kept. Beneath, in the shade, lay idle inhabitants, and from it
were hung the grass petticoats and jangling beads which they use in their dances.
I entered one of the huts on all-fours for inspection, and as I was engaged in so
doing a terrified woman inside tore down the frail wall and made a hurried exit at
the other side. I am told by those outside that the effect was most ludicrous. No
wonder these dusky beauties are somewhat afraid of the white man, as hitherto they
have dealt only with the Portuguese, who pride themselves on amalgamating well with
the natives. In choosing a wife the Portuguese is not at all particular as to colour,
nor is he a monogamist, as he would have to be in his far-off country. This we discovered
for ourselves at Neves Ferreira, the Portuguese settlement on the Pungwe, about six
miles below Mapanda’s, where, beneath tall bananas and refreshing shade, the authorities
of that nation pass a life of Oriental luxury which somewhat scandalises the strait-laced
Briton.
</p>
<p>There are several little kraals on the island belonging to the sons and relatives
of Mapanda, all built on the same lines, and in visiting which we made ourselves insufferably
thirsty, so that a good drink of Kaffir beer, or, as the Portuguese call it, <span class="pageNum" id="pb384">[<a href="#pb384">384</a>]</span>‘millet wine,’ was highly acceptable. It is much more potent than the beer they make
up country, and if it were not for the husks therein, and general nature of fermented
porridge it presents, one might fancy it champagne. Here, too, they make palm wine,
tapping all the neighbouring palm-trees for the sap, which is highly intoxicating,
and of by no means a disagreeable flavour. At Mapanda’s we bade farewell to our donkeys
and our cart and our conductor, Meredith, who had been with us and served us faithfully
ever since we left Kimberley, ten long months before. He returned to Fort Salisbury
with the cart, and wrote to inform us of the miseries of his journey owing to the
rains, which brought fever, and the demise of the donkeys before the end of the journey.
</p>
<p>The voyage from Mapanda’s to the sea at Beira would be indescribably monotonous were
it not for a few interesting features afforded by the stream itself. The tide here
comes up with a remarkably strong bore, or wall-like wave, reminding one of the same
phenomenon in the Severn at home. We heard it murmuring in the distance like the soughing
of a rising wind; as it approached us the roar grew very loud, and finally the wave
floated our stranded steamer almost in an instant.
</p>
<p>Sandbanks are the bane of the navigator of this stream. On his last voyage our captain
had been detained for three days on one, and we passed a Portuguese gunboat which
looked as if it would remain there till the end of time. Our fate was a mild one:
<span class="pageNum" id="pb385">[<a href="#pb385">385</a>]</span>we were only on a bank for a few hours, until the bore came up. These sandbanks are
constantly shifting, and the captain never knows where they may next appear; consequently
slow speed and constant soundings are the only safeguards. Crocodiles innumerable
bask on these sandbanks, and in the stream itself hippopotami raise their black heads
and stare at the strange animal which has come, and which will shortly cause the extermination
of their species in the Pungwe.
</p>
<p>Beira itself is the Portuguese word for a spit of sand, and is a horror of corrugated-iron
domiciles on a bare shadeless sandspit at the mouth of the Pungwe. There is no drinkable
water to be got within three miles of the place, and we paid half-a-crown a bucket
for a very questionable quality of the precious fluid. Nobody washes himself or his
clothes in anything but the sea during the dry season. On the last day of our stay
at Beira (November 23) the heavens were opened and rain fell in torrents. Never was
rain more welcome; pot, pan, and bucket were placed in every direction, and the extortionate
water vendors had to retire from the field.
</p>
<p>Where the eye does not rest on sea or sand it wanders from Beira over miles of flat
mangrove swamps. The heat was scorching; when you walked you sank ankle-deep in sand
at each step. Of all places Beira is the most horrible. When a Portuguese merchant
goes to his office he is borne by four tottering negroes in his <i>mashila</i>; the Englishman walks and <span class="pageNum" id="pb386">[<a href="#pb386">386</a>]</span>does most of his own work for himself, for the very good reason that he can get nobody
to do it for him. This labour question is one of vital importance in Beira, and if
ever it is to be a port of note the present order of things must be altered.
</p>
<p>Yet, in spite of the fever, the heat, and the sand, Beira must go ahead, as nature
has provided it with an excellent harbour, a rarity on the east coast of Africa. This
is the only harbour for the proposed railway to the interior, which is to have its
terminus on the opposite side of the harbour to Beira, nearer to the mouth of the
Buzi, and will run along the flats between that river and the Pungwe. Until this line
is made, I think few of those who have come down this road will care to return and
face the discomforts of another foot journey through the fly country and the swamps.
Perhaps it will be two years before this line is completed, and it must be done by
the cooperation of the two interested companies, the British South Africa and the
Mozambique. Between Massi-Kessi and Umtali it will cost a considerable amount of capital
if the hills are to be tunnelled. On the flats the swamps will cause difficulties:
fevers will play havoc with the labourers, and the rivers and the <i>dongas</i> will have to be bridged.
</p>
<p>When this line is completed, I feel confident that Mashonaland will rapidly go ahead.
There are in it all the elements of prosperity; and we may yet live to see the glories
of the ancient ruins revived under other auspices, for long centuries have not altered
the love of gold inherent in mankind.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb387">[<a href="#pb387">387</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="back">
<div id="appa" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e521">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="super">APPENDICES</h2>
<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb389">[<a href="#pb389">389</a>]</span></p>
<h2 class="label">APPENDIX A</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>Notes on the Geography and Meteorology of Mashonaland</i></h2>
<p class="byline">By <span class="sc">Robert M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span>, Esq.</p>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Central Mashonaland consists of elevated granite plateaux, varying in height between
3,000 and 5,000 feet. Through the surface of these plains rise groups of isolated
little granite hills which are most remarkable and varied in form, and which sometimes
attain an elevation of 1,000 feet above their base, but more frequently they are about
400 feet high. Generally they are composed of enormous broken blocks of granite, but
often they are dome-shaped and of one unbroken mass of rock, and suggest the idea
of huge bubbles on the surface of a molten mass. The summits of the latter kind of
hills are, of course, quite inaccessible. They are not hills left in relief by the
denudation of the surrounding country, but, judging from exposed sections of some
that I have seen, they have been elevated by a force acting at a comparatively small
distance below the present surface, and they are older than the stratified rocks of
the country.
</p>
<p>On the granite plateaux one meets with patches of stratified rock—of quartzites and
schists, and rarely some crystalline limestone. Magnesia, too, is sometimes present,
<span class="pageNum" id="pb390">[<a href="#pb390">390</a>]</span>notably at Umtali, and in the steatite which occurs near the Great Zimbabwe, of which
many of the objects found in the excavations were made. The strike of the strata is
generally east and west, and the various patches arrange themselves in several fairly
continuous lines running across the country in the same direction as the strike. These
semi-continuous deposits or belts of stratified rock are generally two or three miles
wide, and in them occur the gold-bearing quartz reefs. The most southerly belt that
I know of in Mashonaland proper passes by Fort Victoria, and probably crosses the
Sabi River about latitude 20°. The next large one passes by Umtali and the ’Mfuli
River, where it crosses the waggon-road, and so on to Hartley Hill. This belt includes
Mount Wedsa, the highest mountain in Mashonaland. Next in order comes the Mazoe deposit,
which perhaps also includes the Kaiser Wilhelm gold-field. These deposits are all
fairly similar in nature, but no fossils have been found in them, and their age has
not been determined. They probably represent a continuous sheet of stratified rock,
all of which has been denuded away except the above-mentioned belts. They generally
present a rugged surface, elevated in mountain ranges, which often rise 1,500 and
2,000 feet above their base, and, although they are nearly always steep, they are
rarely precipitous. These mountains are regular and beautiful in outline, and refresh
the eye after it has grown wearied of the grotesque forms of the granite hills. The
soil on the stratified rocks is more fertile than it is on the granite, and the vegetation
is more charming; the very coarse grasses of the granite soils being replaced by many
flowering plants.
</p>
<p>The ruins which have just been described are all built on granite, but are generally
within a short distance of the quartz formation; and the ruins at Zimbabwe are situated
four miles from the southern edge of the quartz belt. At Zimbabwe we found little
clay crucibles in which gold had been melted, <span class="pageNum" id="pb391">[<a href="#pb391">391</a>]</span>and an accumulation of quartzite rock which had been obtained from the casing of a
quartz reef. I carefully tested this rock for gold, but could only find a very minute
trace; so I conclude that it had been rejected as too poor for treatment. While at
Zimbabwe, whenever I could spare time from the excavations, I made excursions to the
quartz belt, and searched for old workings and gold reefs. I found one reef carrying
a small quantity of gold, but no old workings. Since then, however, rich gold reefs
have been discovered about twenty miles to the north-west of Zimbabwe, and from these
probably the ancients obtained their quartz. The quartz formation near the little
ruin at the Mazoe River has been much worked for gold, and the Manica belt seems to
have been even more exploited. Where the high plateau breaks down at Massi-Kessi an
enormous amount of alluvial has been worked. The old people must have obtained, from
both the alluvial and the reefs, a great quantity of gold to repay them for the work
that they did, and there is no reason to suppose that they have exhausted the reefs;
indeed, I have seen at the bottom of old workings the reef continuing and carrying
visible gold.
</p>
<p>Besides gold reefs, these quartz belts contain much iron ore and some manganese. In
two isolated patches of the quartzite formation at the Doroba Mountains, near the
Sabi River, I found great masses of rich magnetite and hematite, and on the top of
Mount ’Nyaguzwe, near Fort Victoria, there is also a mass of magnetite; in fact, so
very abundant is iron ore, that compass bearings can rarely be taken with safety from
hills in the quartz formation. Along the right bank of the Sabi River, near Mount
Wedsa, are many native villages, whose one industry is iron smelting. They obtain
the ore from Mount Wedsa, which is renowned far and wide in Kaffirland as an iron-producing
mountain. The mineral they select is not very rich, and is consequently more easily
<span class="pageNum" id="pb392">[<a href="#pb392">392</a>]</span>smelted, and it contains some manganese. The iron they produce is very pure, and is
consequently soft and easily fashioned into weapons and tools. Their anvils are simple
blocks of hard diorite, on which they hammer with another smaller block.
</p>
<p>The tributaries of the Sabi River flowing near Zimbabwe have been ill-defined on previous
maps. The ’Mpopotekwe joins the ’Mtelekwe and the ’Mshagashe flows into the united
stream a short distance south of Zimbabwe. This river, under the name of the ’Mtelekwe,
then flows into the Lunde, and not to the Sabi direct. The Tokwe joins the Lunde farther
north. The most interesting geographical work that we did was on our expedition to
the Sabi River, and on that from Fort Salisbury to ’Mtoko’s, and down by Mangwendi’s
and Makoni’s country to Umtali. On our journey to the Sabi we crossed a great many
of its western tributaries; and as the same streams rose near the waggon-road, and
we crossed them pretty far down their courses, we were able to lay down their direction
for a considerable distance with certainty. The Sabi River itself, in latitude 19°
15′, we found was placed twenty miles too far west in former maps; and from the information
which I gathered from the natives, in the latitude of Zimbabwe, it must be about fifty
miles farther east than it is placed in these maps. This river, where we struck it,
was a considerable stream flowing rapidly over a rocky bed. It had fallen about 1,800
feet from its source near Fort Charter, and had 2,700 feet more to fall before it
reached the sea. When it has received all the tributaries we crossed it must be a
very big river.
</p>
<p>Going from Fort Salisbury to ’Mtoko’s we crossed many tributaries of the Mazoe River,
which were either not shown at all in former maps, or were most inaccurately placed.
We recrossed these streams again farther up returning from ’Mtoko’s to Mangwendi’s.
I also got excellent views of them <span class="pageNum" id="pb393">[<a href="#pb393">393</a>]</span>from the various mountains which I ascended, so that I was able to lay them down in
my map with certainty. To the eastward of ’Mtoko’s we could see the high <i>veldt</i> breaking into mountain ranges as it descended towards Gouveia’s country.
</p>
<p>Approaching Mangwendi’s, and also going between Mangwendi’s and Chipunza’s, our way
lay along a very high watershed, on the western side of which rose some of the eastern
tributaries of the Sabi River, the most important of which was the ’Msheke. At Makoni’s
we reached the highest part of the plateau, and this is, with the exception of some
villages on Mount Yenya, the highest inhabited part of Mashonaland. From Makoni’s
to Mount Yenya the country is broken; and the descent is very rapid, but on the east
of our route the descent is still more rapid and the mountains more imposing. On the
north side of Mount Yenya flows the Odzi River, which is there a very considerable
stream. Mount Yenya is a most imposing mountain and the highest in Mashonaland, with
the exception of Mount Wedsa. It rises to a height of 5,800 feet above sea level,
and within 300 feet of its summit are several villages which own a considerable number
of cattle. It probably represents the Mount Doe which the Portuguese place on their
maps about this part, and which they say is 7,900 feet high, for certainly there is
no mountain near Mount Yenya of equal height. Between Umtali and Massi-Kessi the country
is extremely mountainous, and the scenery is the grandest that we saw in Mashonaland.
We lost 1,400 feet in height between these two places. A short distance after leaving
Massi-Kessi we crossed the Revwe River, and our way lay along a watershed about 2,000
feet high. This watershed is thickly wooded, and is traversed sometimes by deep ravines.
On the left hand the streams flow to the Pungwe River, and on the right to the Revwe
and the Muda and Mutuchiri Rivers. <span class="pageNum" id="pb394">[<a href="#pb394">394</a>]</span>Approaching Sarmento, the country falls rapidly to nearly sea level; and thence to
the coast we traversed a flat alluvial country through which the Pungwe River sluggishly
flows. This swampy level country swarms with game, especially towards the end of the
dry season, but the vegetation is not nearly so luxuriant as one would expect, and
some parts of this country are quite bare.
</p>
<p>I have been careful throughout to spell the native names in accordance with the rules
laid down by the Royal Geographical Society. The sound of the Bushman clicks which
occurs so often in the names of places and in the names of tribes derived from the
names of places, but most frequently of all in the names of rivers, is slurred over
by the present tribes, and represented by a combination of letters. As I know of no
rule for the spelling of these sounds, I have represented them by an inverted comma
and the consonant nearest in sound. In maps of Africa north of the Zambesi these clicks
are generally spelt in this way, although the comma has often dropped out, as in words
like ‘Nyanza,’ ‘Mpwapwa,’ ‘Mvumi;’ but south of that river cartographers have been
less accurate, and have often used various vowels instead of the comma. I have used
such mis-spellings of the native names only when they have been long established and
passed into constant use: as ‘Umtali’ and ‘Inhambane.’
</p>
<p>A point of interest in the remote history of the country and of the ruins which we
examined—for the old people doubtless entered the country by this coast—is the growth
of the land at the mouth of the Pungwe River and around Sofala. From about Sarmento
down to Beira one passes over a low alluvial country which has been slowly encroaching
on the sea for ages. I am sorry that in the rush to the coast I did not have time
to collect data to enable me to form any idea of the quantity of mud deposited from
the waters of the Pungwe in a given time, but its waters hold in suspension a <span class="pageNum" id="pb395">[<a href="#pb395">395</a>]</span>great quantity of fine clay derived from the decomposition of the granite in its basin,
and this is deposited where the river enters the sea. The distance from Sarmento to
Beira as the crow flies is sixty-five miles, so that at some period the road to the
interior must have been shortened by this amount, and even in early historical times
some part of the journey across the low fever belt would have been saved. The site
of ancient seaports will now be far inland, so it need not surprise us that remains
of these ports have not yet been found.
</p>
<p>Owing to frequent absence from camp, I was unable to read the thermometer and barometer
as continuously and regularly as I could have wished, but the readings which I did
take give us some idea of what the climate at Zimbabwe was in June and July last year.
We arrived there on June 6, after a week of south-east winds, high barometer, and
rain and mist. The wind then gradually fell and the barometer with it, and we had
three weeks of fine calm weather. The barometer reached its minimum on June 27, and
at the same time the difference of the readings of the wet and dry bulb thermometers
was at its maximum. The air was then very dry and the sky clear, with light north
winds which were evidently local in origin, and the temperature at night fell below
freezing-point, so that in the morning we saw a light deposit of hoar-frost. Immediately
after this the barometer began to rise, there were light south-east winds, the atmosphere
became moister, and on July 4 the south-east wind had increased considerably in strength,
and some rain fell. From this time until the end of our stay at Zimbabwe, on August
2, the barometer slowly rose and fell, its range being limited to about three-tenths
of an inch; and whenever the south-east winds blew at all strongly the barometer rose
and we had mist and rain. We had during this period generally about a half-day of
rain each week.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb396">[<a href="#pb396">396</a>]</span></p>
<p>At first sight it seems surprising that we should have windy wet weather with a high
barometer, but we must remember that the only winds which can bring rain to Zimbabwe,
at least in winter, are the south-easterly winds, and these, like all other winds
blowing towards the equator, increase the atmospheric pressure. Zimbabwe is situated
on the edge of a plateau about 3,400 feet above sea level. The country breaks down
gradually towards the south and east and more rapidly towards the west, while towards
the north it rises gently until after about 100 miles it attains an altitude of nearly
5,000 feet. The west winds, if they do blow, have to traverse the continent and the
high country about the sources of the Limpopo before they reach Zimbabwe, so that
they will deposit their excess of moisture for the altitude of Zimbabwe before reaching
that place; and the northerly winds will tend to increase in temperature, and consequently
in dryness, after falling from the high country towards the north; so that westerly
and northerly winds will not part with moisture at Zimbabwe. The predominant winds
in this latitude are the south-east trades, and they, carrying their moisture from
the Indian Ocean, are forced to rise as they pass over this country, and they consequently
expand and are lowered in temperature and so deposit much of their moisture on this
edge of the high plateau. A similar winter climate seems to prevail in most parts
of Mashonaland, the edges of the plateaux receiving most of the moisture. Manica is
situated much nearer the sea than Zimbabwe, and the country there falls much more
rapidly towards the east (it falls 1,400 feet in ten miles near Umtali), and consequently
the rainfall there is heavier. Fort Salisbury is better situated for a dry winter,
for it is in the middle of a high plateau, and the south-east winds will have parted
with most of their surplus moisture for that altitude before they reach it. The driest
time of the year in Mashonaland is from August to November. I may <span class="pageNum" id="pb397">[<a href="#pb397">397</a>]</span>mention that the greatest difference I observed in the readings of the wet and dry
bulb thermometers was 24° F. at the ’Mshabetsi River, at an altitude of 2,140 feet,
on May 13 at 2 <span class="asc">P.M.</span>; the readings being 64° and 88° respectively. At Zimbabwe during June and July the
difference in readings varied from 0° to 20° F., and the dew point sometimes fell
to 32° F. at midday. The extreme range of shade temperature in the two months was
46° F.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb398">[<a href="#pb398">398</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id="appb" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e533">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">APPENDIX B</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>List of Stations in Mashonaland Astronomically Observed, with Altitudes</i></h2>
<p class="byline">By <span class="sc">Robert M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span>, Esq.</p>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="table">
<table class="small">
<thead>
<tr class="label">
<td class="cellHeadLeft cellHeadTop">Stations </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4832 cellHeadTop">Latitude </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835 cellHeadTop">Longitude </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellHeadRight cellHeadTop">Heights<a class="noteRef" id="xd31e4848src" href="#xd31e4848">1</a> </td>
</tr>
<tr class="unit">
<td class="cellHeadLeft cellHeadBottom"> </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellHeadBottom">° </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellHeadBottom">′ </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellHeadBottom">″ </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellHeadBottom">° </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellHeadBottom">′ </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellHeadBottom">″ </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellHeadRight cellHeadBottom">feet
</td>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mafeking </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 1 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft"><span class="corr" id="xd31e4888" title="Source: Ramathlabama">Ramatlabama</span> River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 37 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At Pan </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 13 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Kanya, 11 miles S.S.E of </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3580 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Kanya </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 58 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 16 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3750 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Molopolole </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4020 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Molopolole, 4 miles N. of </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3872 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Klippan, ½ mile N. of </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 12 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4020 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Kurumurwa </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 33 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3570 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Khemi </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3490 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Boatlenama, 15 miles S.E. of </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 42 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 35 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3540 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Boatlenama </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3400 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">S. of Selinia Pan </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 11 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3120 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">N. of Selinia Pan </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 3 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3050 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Hataloklu Vley </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 4 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3140 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">S. of Shoshong </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 47 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3160 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Shoshong </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 4 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3310 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At stream </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 1 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3260 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Mahalapsi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3240 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Chuloan Vley </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 46 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3010 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Palapwe </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 37 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3150 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At Lotsani River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2740 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At Lotsani River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 58 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 34 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2480 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At Lotsani River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 37 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 46 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2450 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Elibi Fort </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 55 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2300 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Elibi Fort </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4832"> — </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2230 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">At Muralla Vley </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 55 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2290 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Makwenje River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2275 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Pakwe River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 24 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2400
<span class="pageNum" id="pb399">[<a href="#pb399">399</a>]</span>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Marapong River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2230 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Matlaputla River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 3 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 39 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Maklutsi Camp </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 42 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2010 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Maklutsi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 58 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1870 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Metsimachokwan River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 49 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 55 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 52 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1920 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Semalali </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2080 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Baobab Spruit </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 14 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Fort Tuli </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 55 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Ipagi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 36 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Sigabi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 43 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 42 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Msingwan River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 39 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1720 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mshabetsi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 26 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2140 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mount Yanda </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2330 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Bubye River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 14 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2090 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Nyamanda </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 11 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 34 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mount Host </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 9 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2250 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Nwanetsi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 5 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 16 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1910 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Nwanesti River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1880 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Mount Ibonda </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 49 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 49 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 42 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2130 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Lunde River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 44 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1970 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Naka Mountains </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 35 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 54 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2130 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mlala </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 9 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 47 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2580 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Tokwe River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 5 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2380 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Providential Pass </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 11 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 11 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3090 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Fort Victoria </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3380 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Zimbabwe </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 16 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3340 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mshagashe River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 3 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3200 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Makori </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 58 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4200 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Chekatu </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 49 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 3 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4100 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Gona </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 36 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 52 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4350 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Msingana </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3650 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Kutimasinga’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 38 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 37 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3250 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Lutile </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 34 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 12 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3600 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Matindela </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3350 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Mount Wizinde </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3250 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Mwairari River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 14 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2900 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mukubu River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 4 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2700 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Sabi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 1 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2900 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Ampsäi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2950 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Zamopera </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 39 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3660 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mafusaire’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 26 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3950 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">East of Smet’s Kraal </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 51 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">West of Kwende’s Kraal </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4220
<span class="pageNum" id="pb400">[<a href="#pb400">400</a>]</span>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mtigesa’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 16 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4570 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Fort Charter </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 35 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 9 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4408 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mfuli River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 35 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 5 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4080 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near stream </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">S. of Hanyani River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 3 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4800 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Fort Salisbury </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 49 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 4 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4820 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Fleming’s Camp, Mazoe River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Yellow Jacket Mine, ditto </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 28 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 4 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4030 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Madelaywa’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 12 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> — </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Musungaikwa’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 52 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 5010 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Nora River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 55 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 13 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4470 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Kunzi’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4400 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Yandoro’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 47 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 41 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4720 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Bambabashla’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4410 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mahume River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3420 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Lutsa </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 9 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3450 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near ’Mtoko’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 14 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3900 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Nyandea River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 5 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3600 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Nyamashupa River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 39 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3900 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Mount Masunsgwai </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 12 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 54 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4350 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Yaungurukwe River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 25 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4700 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mangwendi’s P.S. </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 42 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 39 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4870 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Nyanger Mountain </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 46 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4850 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Chikamondi River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 21 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 6 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 31 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4810 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mount Ruanda </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 7 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4830 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Chipunza’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4450 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Chigono’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 17 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4450 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Yenya Mountains </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 22 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3620 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Odzi River drift </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 48 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3420 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">’Mtasa’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 44 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 29 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 4170 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Umtali, our camp </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 3600 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Massi-Kessi (Portuguese camp) </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 53 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 45 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 44 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2200 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mineni River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 56 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 50 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2140 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Lusika River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 27 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2000 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Vundusi River trib. </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 13 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2000 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Near Chimoia’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 59 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835"> 33 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 20 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 0 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 2140 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Zombana River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 18 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 57 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 15 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 1930 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Makumbese River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 2 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 10 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 120 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Vley </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 8 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 35 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 100 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft">Mutuchiri River </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 16 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832"> 40 </td>
<td colspan="3" class="colspan xd31e4835"> — </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight"> 50 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="cellLeft cellBottom">’Mpanda’s </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellBottom"> 19 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellBottom"> 23 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellBottom"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellBottom"> 34 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellBottom"> 32 </td>
<td class="xd31e4832 cellBottom"> 30 </td>
<td class="xd31e4835 cellRight cellBottom"> 20 </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div><p>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb401">[<a href="#pb401">401</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
<div class="footnotes">
<hr class="fnsep">
<div class="footnote-body">
<div class="fndiv" id="xd31e4848">
<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd31e4848src">1</a></span> The heights have been obtained with aneroid and boiling-point thermometers, and with
the exception of that of Zimbabwe, where we stayed some time, are only approximate.&nbsp;<a class="fnarrow" href="#xd31e4848src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="appc" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e545">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">APPENDIX C</h2>
<h2 class="main"><i>Addenda to Chapter V</i></h2>
<p class="byline">By <span class="sc">R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan</span>, Esq.</p>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Since writing the preceding pages (<a href="#ch5">Chapter V</a>.) it has been found to be possible from the measurements made at Zimbabwe to determine
the radius of another curve of the outer wall of the great temple. This part of the
wall extends from <span class="asc">B</span> in a north-westerly direction for 111 feet, to a point which we shall call <span class="asc">C</span>. The radius of its curve is 133 feet, so that the diameter of the circle of which
it is a part is equal to one half of 17·17 × 3·14<sup>3</sup>, and the centre of the curve (which we shall call W) is situated on the meridian
line from the altar through the main doorway. The middle point of this arc <span class="asc">B C</span>, the S.S.E. doorway of the arc <span class="asc">G</span>, the centres <span class="asc">G</span> and <span class="asc">W</span>, all lie in one and the same straight line. This line cuts the meridian at an angle
of 30°, and when produced will pass over the outer wall at a point which is marked
by a step which is built across the top of the wall. A line drawn in a similar way
from the middle of the arc <span class="asc">K B</span> through the centre of the great tower, the altar, and <span class="asc">P</span>, also cuts the meridian at an angle of 30°, but from its other side. As the original
wall no longer exists at the point where this line would pass we cannot say if its
position was marked on the wall.
</p>
<p>These lines of sight seem to have been used, like the meridian lines, for the observation
of stars, but of stars off the <span class="pageNum" id="pb402">[<a href="#pb402">402</a>]</span>meridian. It could hardly have served any useful purpose to observe several stars
crossing these lines unless they all had the same polar distance; for stars with different
polar distances would cross the lines at different lengths of time before and after
their culminations. Nor, in the latitude of Zimbabwe, would any individual star cross
the lines at any important time in its daily circuit. But if we suppose that this
temple is built on the model of one in the parent country in the northern hemisphere,
it is easy to imagine a useful purpose which these lines may have served. In the latitude
of Southern Arabia, for instance, an observer facing north would see the North Pole
elevated about 15° above the horizon. If we compare the northern portion of the sky
to a watch dial, the stars will represent the moving hands, the pole the centre of
the dial, the meridian the <span class="asc">XII.</span> and <span class="asc">VI.</span> hour-points, and the <span class="asc">III.</span> and <span class="asc">IX.</span> hours will be marked by a horizontal line passing through the pole east and west.
When stars cross this line they may be said to be at their east or west elongation.
Now it seems probable that the two lines in question would be used in the parent country
to observe a star having a north polar distance of 30° when it was at its east and
west elongations and six hours from the meridian.
</p>
<p>We have before remarked that none of our trigonometrical functions seem to have been
recognised by the builders of Zimbabwe, and that the angular values of the arcs are
of no special importance when measured in our way. But they must have been of importance
to the builders of the temples. The locating of the centres of the arcs on the several
meridian lines, supposing the meridian lines were first laid down in planning the
temples (as the central one undoubtedly was in the great temple), does not really
determine the intersecting points of the arcs; for, were the centre moved along the
meridian lines in either direction, the points of intersection would change their
positions and the lengths of the arcs would be altered.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb403">[<a href="#pb403">403</a>]</span></p>
<p>The lengths of the arcs seem to have been determined by the intersections of circles
of radii different from those of the arcs themselves, but the lengths of whose radii
were determined by the same system as those of the arcs. The centres of the intersecting
circles are situated on the radius of the arc which lies midway between its extremities,
and the distance between the arc and the intersecting circle measured on the same
radius produced is equal to the diameter of one of the towers.
</p>
<p>The arc <span class="asc">AK</span> is built on a curve of 107·8 feet radius; and if a circle be drawn as described with
a radius of 169·3 feet, it will determine the length of the chord of the arc at 107
feet, and the distance between the two arcs measured on the middle radius will be
5·45, which is equal to the diameter of the little tower.
</p>
<p>The arc <span class="asc">KB</span> treated in the same way, with a curve of 84·6 feet, and with a distance of 17·17
feet (the diameter of the great tower) between the intersecting circle and the arc,
has the length of its chord fixed at 129½ feet. These two lengths of 107 and 129½
feet agree to within six inches with our actual measurement of the wall itself.
</p>
<p>If we apply our system to the arc <span class="asc">BC</span> in an exactly similar manner, but with the distance between the circle and the arc
made equal to the radius of the great tower, we find that the length of its chord
should be 111 feet; and this also agrees closely with our measurements.
</p>
<p>The arc of the eastern temple on the hill has a radius of 42·3 feet, and if a circle
of 169·3 feet be applied to it with a distance of 17·17 feet between the circle and
the arc, we find that the length of its chord should be 72 feet; and this is exactly
what we make it on our plan. This also explains the hitherto inexplicable position
of the eastern doorway.
</p>
<p>In a similar way we determine the length of the chord of the great wall in the western
temple to be 140 feet; but as the <span class="pageNum" id="pb404">[<a href="#pb404">404</a>]</span>ends of this wall are in a ruinous condition, and as the present outer face is not
of the original period, we cannot say whether this was the actual measurement or not.
</p>
<p>With two exceptions, there are no other arcs which are sufficiently complete to allow
us to ascertain their original measurements. These exceptions are the arc in the little
temple at <span class="asc">G</span>, and that from the doorway to <span class="asc">A</span>. In the former case, the length of the arc is fixed by the two doorways; and as one
of these is placed north of the centre in order to permit of observation along the
meridian line, and the other is made to serve the same purpose for the line <span class="asc">GW</span>, it is obvious why the length of this arc was not determined in the same way. In
the latter case, as one end of the arc is at a northern doorway, and as we are not
quite certain of the length of the radius of the arc itself, we have not attempted
to determine the length of its chord.
</p>
<p>It is much to be desired that more of the plan of the original temple should be recovered,
and this can only be done by careful excavation conducted by some one of experience
in the art; for an inexperienced or careless workman could easily and unwittingly
remove any of the remaining mortarless foundations without ever discovering that he
had done so.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb405">[<a href="#pb405">405</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id="appd" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e557">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">APPENDIX D.</h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The following notes have been kindly supplied by the Secretary of the British South
Africa Company:—
</p>
<p class="h2"><i>Progress in Mashonaland summarised from November 1891 to May 1893.</i>
</p>
<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">HEALTH.</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The rainy season of 1891 to 1892 found the settlers in Mashonaland well housed and
with an abundance of provisions; in consequence, a wonderful improvement was manifested
in the health of the community, proving that the insufficiency of food and shelter,
necessarily associated with the initial occupation of a wild country so many hundreds
of miles from a base of supply, was mainly responsible for the sickness of the rainy
season of 1890–1891.
</p>
<p>The Senior Medical Officer of the British South Africa Company reported early in 1892
that not a single case of fever had arisen among the inhabitants of Salisbury during
the worst part of the wet season; in every case the patient had contracted his fever
elsewhere, and there had been no deaths at all from climatic causes in Salisbury or
its district. He adds: ‘Good food, good clothing, shelter from inclement weather and
the sun, an abundant supply of medicines and invalid necessaries and a milder season
have wrought an enormous improvement in the general health of the people<span class="corr" id="xd31e6828" title="Source: .">,</span> <span class="pageNum" id="pb406">[<a href="#pb406">406</a>]</span>and Mashonaland of 1892 is not recognisable as Mashonaland of 1891.’
</p>
<p>The general health has been equally good in the rainy season of 1892–3, and the experience
of the last two years has shown that perfect health may be enjoyed by anyone who will
avoid undue exposure and will observe a few simple precautions.
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">TOWNSHIPS</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Progress in the townships of Salisbury, Victoria, and Umtali has been rapid.
</p>
<p>At Salisbury 1,800 stands have been surveyed and mapped out; at Victoria 572 stands,
and at Umtali 300. In July 1892 a sale of stands was held at the three places mentioned
above, 70 at Salisbury being sold for 2,250<i>l.</i>, 150 at Victoria for 6,107<i>l.</i>, and 44 at Umtali for 1,396<i>l.</i>, the total sum realised being nearly 10,000<i>l.</i> for 264 stands. It is intended to hold another sale in July of this year, where competition
no doubt will be keen, as the attention of capitalists in England, as well as those
on the spot, is being directed to the matter.
</p>
<p>The public buildings at Salisbury, such as the Administrator’s Offices, the Standard
Bank Offices, the Police Station, Magazine, Court House, Survey, Mines, Post and Telegraph
Offices, are already completed or on the verge of completion. All the material required
for these buildings has been drawn from the district itself, with the exception of
wood for doors, skirting, and architraves.
</p>
<p>A Sanitary Board has been formed at Salisbury to manage the affairs of the township
with a revenue derived from one-half the stand-rents (10<i>s.</i> per month) and other fees, such as market dues.
</p>
<p>A branch of the Standard Bank was opened at Salisbury on July 20, 1892, and is doing
a very good business. A <span class="pageNum" id="pb407">[<a href="#pb407">407</a>]</span>printed newspaper, the <i>Rhodesia Herald</i>, is also published there weekly.
</p>
<p>The Mining Commissioner for Victoria reported on September 24, 1892, as follows:—
</p>
<p>‘The township of Victoria is growing very fast, and very good buildings are being
erected, the majority being composed of brick and iron or brick and thatch; they are
far superior to those erected at Kimberley, Barberton, or Johannesburg. The town has
only been surveyed a few months, and progress made is very good. This shows that the
people have every confidence in the mining and general prospects of Mashonaland.’
</p>
<p>Victoria also possesses a newspaper, the <i>Mashonaland Times and Mining Chronicle</i>.
</p>
<p>As regards hotels, there are several most substantial buildings of brick and iron
offering excellent accommodation at Salisbury, and between Victoria and Salisbury
there are wayside hotels at the various post-stations. Victoria itself possesses two,
and others are to be found every 20 miles or so along the 200 miles of road connecting
Victoria with Tuli. At the latter place there is an excellent hotel, conducted by
the Tuli Hotel Company.
</p>
<p>On the Salisbury-Umtali Road and at Umtali wayside houses and hotels have been established,
and their number will no doubt be augmented on the completion of the Beira Railway.
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">ROADS.</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The existing roads have been kept up and improved, and under Mr. Selous’s superintendence
new ones have been made in many directions connecting Fort Salisbury with the various
gold-fields and with the main road to the Pungwe.
</p>
<p>During 1892 Mr. Selous constructed an excellent road from Umtali to Chimoio, a distance
of over 70 miles, to meet <span class="pageNum" id="pb408">[<a href="#pb408">408</a>]</span>the head of the Beira Railway. The road will be available for heavy waggons at all
seasons of the year. Two road-making parties are engaged at the present time in maintaining
and improving it.
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">BEIRA RAILWAY.</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Satisfactory progress is being made with the Beira Railway, the first section of which
from Fontes Villa (about 48 miles up the Pungwe from Beira) to Chimoio, a distance
of 75 miles, will be opened by the end of July.
</p>
<p>The embankments are completed for 65 miles and the permanent way for 50, but the curves
in some places, especially in the last few miles, are sharp, owing to the broken and
hilly nature of the country. Special rails for these curves have had to be procured
from England and are now on their way out. By the time they arrive at the end of June
all the earthworks will be finished, and they will then only have to be linked to
complete the railway through the fly-belt. It is this fly-belt which has hitherto
opposed such an insuperable obstacle to the importation of heavy goods by this otherwise
easy, cheap, and convenient route.
</p>
<p>It is estimated that the cost of transport of goods from Cape Town to Salisbury will
thus be decreased by more than 20l. per ton, and it will then be possible to import
machinery &amp;c. at rates which compare favourably with those which obtained at the Randt
before the recent completion of the line to Johannesburg.
</p>
<p>On completion of the first section, the construction of the second section as far
as Salisbury will be pressed on with, transport being carried on in the meantime by
services of waggons on the Chimoio-Umtali Road, alluded to above.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb409">[<a href="#pb409">409</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">AGRICULTURE.</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The main occupations of settlers have been gold mining and farming.
</p>
<p>Favourable reports of the country from an agricultural and pastoral point of view
have on several occasions been furnished by deputations of experienced farmers appointed
at public meetings, both in the Cape Colony and the Orange Free State, to inspect
and report upon the land. As the result of these reports, large ‘treks’ of farmers
from those countries have already proceeded, and will be followed shortly by others,
to occupy tracts of land in Mashonaland.
</p>
<p>A recent return from the Surveyor-General’s Office at Salisbury shows that farms representing
a total area of 3,178 square miles or 2,000,000 acres have been granted and located,
nearly one-half having been properly surveyed in addition. Grants of land for farms
of 3,000 acres in extent at an annual quit rent of 3<i>l.</i> were obtainable during 1892, but so many applications were received that these practically
free grants have been altogether suspended, and the price of land is fixed for the
present at 9<i>d.</i> per acre subject to the annual quit rent.
</p>
<p>Farming operations in Mashonaland should offer special advantages, owing to the proximity
of the various gold-fields, which have always afforded markets at most remunerative
rates for all farm produce, and will no doubt continue to do so in the future in an
even greater degree.
</p>
<p>The most important of the deputations above referred to upon inspection estimated
that in the parts of the country visited there were at least 40,000 square miles well
adapted for colonising purposes. When it is remembered that the area of Mashonaland
and Matabeleland is 125,000 square miles, and that not one-half of this extent of
country was seen by the deputation, it will be generally conceded that <span class="pageNum" id="pb410">[<a href="#pb410">410</a>]</span>their estimate, large as it is, admits of considerable amplification.
</p>
<p>It may be incidentally mentioned, dealing with quite another part of the British South
Africa Company’s territories, viz. the sphere north of the Zambesi, which amounts
to upwards of 500,000 square miles, that most favourable reports of its mineral and
agricultural resources have been furnished by such well-known travellers as Joseph
Thomson and Alfred Sharpe.
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div2 last-child section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h3 class="main">GOLD.</h3>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">The attention of the majority of the population has mainly been directed to the exploitation
of the gold reefs, and in spite of difficulties arising from want of transport and
from ignorance of the country, a great deal of solid development has been achieved.
</p>
<p>Owing to various causes, it was not until July 1891 that regular workings were commenced.
Since that time prospecting has been carried on in a systematic and efficient manner,
resulting in the discovery of the gold-bearing districts of Victoria, Manica, Hartley
Hill, Mazoe, and Lo Magondas, having a total area of 27,000 square miles. It is believed
that the gold-belt starting from Umtali passes through Victoria, and will in all probability
connect with the gold-belt stretching eastward from the Tati gold-fields in the western
portion of Matabeleland, and on which considerable development work has been done.
</p>
<p>Fresh discoveries on a large scale have recently been made within 15 miles of Salisbury.
The latest cable intelligence states that in these new fields the reefs proved to
40 and 60 feet are as rich and as wide as at the surface. Gold-belts have also recently
been discovered at Mt. Darwin, about 80 miles north of Mazoe, at points 120 miles
north of Umtali (Manica) and 80 miles south of the same place, <span class="pageNum" id="pb411">[<a href="#pb411">411</a>]</span>and on the Tokwe River about 30 miles west of Victoria. The gold formations at the
above places are all very extensive, show visible freely, and give very rich pannings,
while they cannot be said to have been developed at all up to the present. Another
series of reefs, which are described as being phenomenally rich by the British South
Africa Company’s Administrator, have just been discovered in the commonage at Umtali.
</p>
<p>The immense cost of importing even the lightest stamp batteries has, of course, retarded
the gold industry to an enormous extent, but the completion of the Beira Railway will
work a great change in this respect. What crushings have taken place show very rich
results. The average yield from several hundred tons of ore extracted from all reefs
in the Victoria district, good and bad together, was 18·3 dwt. per ton, or about 73<i>s.</i> It has, however, been proved in practice that mining operations even under present
conditions can be carried on in Mashonaland at a cost not exceeding 20<i>s.</i> per ton, leaving the very handsome profit of 53<i>s.</i> for every ton crushed in the above district.
</p>
<p>In a cablegram recently received from the Company’s administrator on his return from
a tour of inspection of the various mining districts he states that new finds were
occurring everywhere daily, and that crushings were everywhere successful; that the
reefs were improving with depth, and that wonderful development was proceeding in
every district. As regards alluvial gold, that large deposits do exist, and that their
discovery is only a question of time, is the opinion of all experienced miners. That
this time has now arrived seems probable from a cable message recently received reporting
that 50 oz. of alluvial gold had been brought into Salisbury, causing great excitement
there. Should, however, alluvial fields, so valuable to a new country from their power
of attracting a large mining population, <span class="pageNum" id="pb412">[<a href="#pb412">412</a>]</span>never be discovered, it may not be too much to say—the progress that has been made
in so short a time, and the enormous extent and richness of the auriferous reefs being
taken into consideration—that the time cannot be far distant when Mashonaland will
assume a leading position amongst the principal gold-producing countries of the world.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb413">[<a href="#pb413">413</a>]</span> </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ix" class="div1 index"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd31e565">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="main">INDEX</h2>
</div>
<div class="divBody">
<p class="first">Abantu charms, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>; <br>origin of the name Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>
</p>
<p>Abyssinia, Mr. Salt’s exploration in, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Ælian on vultures, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>; <br>on Egyptian sacrifice, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>
</p>
<p>Æthiopia, Sabæan city in, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Africa, Phœnician circumnavigation, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>; <br>Arab extension in, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>; <br>Arab opposition to Portuguese, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>; <br>Roman penetration through, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a>; <br>extent of Portuguese influence in, <a href="#pb243" class="pageref">243</a> <br>East: Greek and Roman knowledge of, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>; <br>ancient gold-mining population, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>; <br>Sabæan possession of, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>; <br>Portuguese enterprise, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>; <br>wild tribes of, <a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a>; <br>Abou Zeyd’s description of the Zindj tribes, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>; <br>wealth of gold in, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>; <br>curious birds, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a> <br>South: British Chartered Company of, expedition assisted by, <a href="#pb4" class="pageref">4</a>; <br>Dr. Emil Holub’s work on, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a> <br>South-East: ancient products sent as tribute to Egypt, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>
</p>
<p>Alvarez, Pory’s translation of, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>; <br>on the god of the Monomatapa, <a href="#pb342" class="pageref">342</a>
</p>
<p>Agatharcides on the wealth of the Sabæans, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Agizymba, Ptolemy’s mention of, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a>
</p>
<p>Aizanes, King, victory of, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Anderson, Mr. A. A., rock carvings discovered in Bechuanaland by, <a href="#pb199" class="pageref">199</a>, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>
</p>
<p>Aphrodite, stone head of, worshipped by the Ismaelites, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>Arab settlement at Rhapta, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Arabia, tower worship in, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>; <br>Himyaritic supremacy in, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>Herodotus on native worship, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a>; <br>Herr Kremer on the ancient cult, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>; <br>Biblical allusions to wealth of, <a href="#pb220" class="pageref">220</a>, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>ancient knowledge of monsoons, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>; <br>trading emporia on the Red Sea, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>; <br>exportation of gold to Rome, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>Horace on wealth of, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>ancient enterprise, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>; <br>Sabæan cities in, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>; <br>Herr Kremer on tribal system of totems, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>
</p>
<p>Argonautic expedition, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>
</p>
<p>Ashmolean Museum, stone carvings from the Soudan in, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>
</p>
<p>‘Asiâ, De,’ by M. De Barros, <a href="#pb238" class="pageref">238</a>
</p>
<p>Asia Minor, mythical inhabitants of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>Axume, Abyssinia, ancient Greek inscription at, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb414">[<a href="#pb414">414</a>]</span></p>
<p>Bacoto, ancient Portuguese market in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>
</p>
<p>Bahrein islands, Persian Gulf, tombs in, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>
</p>
<p>Ba-kalahari tribe, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>
</p>
<p>Bakalanga tribes in Natal, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>
</p>
<p>Ba-mangwato tribe at Palapwe, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>; <br>beer-drinking, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>; <br>witch-doctors, <i>ib.</i>; <br>superstition, <i>ib.</i>; <br>women of and civilisation, <a href="#pb27" class="pageref">27</a>
</p>
<p>Bandiri, early Portuguese influence at, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>
</p>
<p>Bandula, kraal of, <a href="#pb374" class="pageref">374</a>
</p>
<p>Ba-Ngwatetse tribe, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>; <br>soldiers, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a>
</p>
<p>Baobab trees, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>
</p>
<p>Ba-quaina tribe, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a>
</p>
<p>Baramazimba, a fantastic kraal near Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a>
</p>
<p>Barbosa, Duarte, on the gold trade of Sofala, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a>
</p>
<p>Baretto, disastrous campaigns of, <a href="#pb243" class="pageref">243</a>
</p>
<p>Ba-rolongs of Mafeking, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>
</p>
<p>Barros, De, on the Mashonaland ruins, <a href="#pb238" class="pageref">238</a>
</p>
<p>Basuto skill in stone-building, <a href="#pb347" class="pageref">347</a>
</p>
<p>Batuen, chief of Kanya, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>; <br>under missionary influence, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>his tribal gatherings, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>; <br>his household, <i>ib.</i>; <br>his slaves and soldiers, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a>; <br>his parents, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Bechuanaland, British influence in, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>; <br>Crown colony in, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>boundaries of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>roads through, <i>ib.</i>; <br>‘Ally Sloper’ in, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>; <br>cattle disease, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>inoculation of oxen, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native justice, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>; <br>native soldiers, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a>; <br>funeral of a chief, <i>ib.</i>; <br>music and dancing, <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>, <a href="#pb12" class="pageref">12</a>; <br>marriage and divorce, <a href="#pb13" class="pageref">13</a>; <br>derivation of name, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a>; <br>tribal worship of crocodiles, <i>ib.</i>; <br>produce, <a href="#pb16" class="pageref">16</a>; <br>gardens and fields, <i>ib.</i>; <br>jungle travel, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>; <br>flora and fauna, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>; <br>cattle stations, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a>; <br>tribal migration, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a>; <br>Border Police at Macloutsie, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>; <br>baboons at Palapwe, <a href="#pb24" class="pageref">24</a>; <br>drought in, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>; <br>rock carvings discovered by Mr. Anderson, <a href="#pb199" class="pageref">199</a>, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>
</p>
<p>Beira, waste of provisions at, <a href="#pb283" class="pageref">283</a>; <br>steamer from, to Cape, <a href="#pb302" class="pageref">302</a>; <br>journey from Umtali to, <a href="#pb365" class="pageref">365</a>; <br>unhealthy condition of port, <a href="#pb385" class="pageref">385</a>; <br>proposed railway to the interior, <a href="#pb386" class="pageref">386</a>
</p>
<p>Benoula, in ’Mtoko’s kraal, <a href="#pb327" class="pageref">327</a>; <br>accompanies author on a visit to the lion priest at Lutzi, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Bessa range, as viewed from Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>
</p>
<p>Béthencourt, Portuguese commandant at Massi-Kessi, <a href="#pb370" class="pageref">370</a>
</p>
<p>Bocarro, Antonio, on Portuguese exploration in Africa, <a href="#pb243" class="pageref">243</a>; <br>on the empire of the Monomatapa, <a href="#pb339" class="pageref">339</a>
</p>
<p>Bochiko, village chief in Kunzi’s country, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>; <br>his remarkable appearance, <a href="#pb313" class="pageref">313</a>; <br>his wives and children, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Bœotia, relics from Thebes, <a href="#pb205" class="pageref">205</a>
</p>
<p>Boer expedition in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>
</p>
<p>Bondoro worship in Mangwendi’s country, <a href="#pb340" class="pageref">340</a>
</p>
<p>Britain, ancient, tin ingots found in, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>; <br>mythical inhabitants of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>British Association, expedition to Mashonaland assisted by, <a href="#pb4" class="pageref">4</a>
</p>
<p>British Chartered Company of South Africa. See ‘Chartered’
</p>
<p>British Museum, Egyptian pillow in the, <a href="#pb37" class="pageref">37</a>; <br>African musical instruments, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>; <br>Phœnician sepulchral stelæ in, <a href="#pb189" class="pageref">189</a>; <br><i>lebes</i> from temple at Naucratis, <a href="#pb201" class="pageref">201</a>; <br>iron bells from the Congo, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a>, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>
</p>
<p>Brittany, avenues of menhirs near Carnac, <a href="#pb132" class="pageref">132</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb415">[<a href="#pb415">415</a>]</span></p>
<p>Bufwa mountains, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>
</p>
<p>Buzi river, early Portuguese influence on the, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>
</p>
<p>Cabiri ruins at Hadjar Kem in Malta, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>Cahal, Alvarez de, Portuguese explorer, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a>; <br>his entry into Sofala harbour, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Arab gold-laden dhows, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Cairo, Portuguese at, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Cambridge, cylindrical object from Cyprus in Fitzwilliam Museum at, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Carnac, Brittany, avenues of menhirs near, <a href="#pb132" class="pageref">132</a>; <br>mythical builders of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>Charter fort, Makalanga tribes at, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>arrival of expedition at, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>; <br>parting with native servants, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Chartered Company of South Africa, author’s obligations to, <a href="#pb4" class="pageref">4</a>; <br>pioneers in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>; <br>difficulty in catering at Fort Salisbury, <a href="#pb282" class="pageref">282</a>; <br>punishment of Kaffirs by officers of, <a href="#pb299" class="pageref">299</a>
</p>
<p>Chekatu, village of, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a>; <br>Matabele raid on, <i>ib.</i>; <br>female barber at, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Cherumbila, native chief, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a>; <br>visit to his kraal, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a>; <br>description thereof, <i>ib.</i>; <br>his raids upon neighbouring tribes, <i>ib.</i>; <br>interview with, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Matabele, raid upon, <i>ib.</i>; <br>his hospitality, <a href="#pb91" class="pageref">91</a>
</p>
<p>Chibi’s country, <a href="#pb44" class="pageref">44</a>; <br>native iron-smelting, <a href="#pb45" class="pageref">45</a>; <br>pot-making, <i>ib.</i>; <br>granaries, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a>; <br>rats and mice, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native costumes, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a>
</p>
<p>Chiburga, Monomatapa’s stronghold for wives, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a>
</p>
<p>Chiburwe mountain, north of Matindela, ruins of fort near, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>, <a href="#pb140" class="pageref">140</a>; <br>gigantic baobab tree, <a href="#pb140" class="pageref">140</a>; <br>Makalanga outpost, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a>; <br>holes for Isafuba game, <i>ib.</i>; <br>miserable villages around, <i>ib.</i>; <br>trackless forests in vicinity, <a href="#pb268" class="pageref">268</a>; <br>ruin there, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Chidima, the Monomatapa of; Portuguese accounts of, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>, <a href="#pb332" class="pageref">332</a>; <br>silver-mining at, <a href="#pb332" class="pageref">332</a>
</p>
<p>Chigono village, <a href="#pb355" class="pageref">355</a>; <br>its wonderful position, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Chilondillo fort, ruins of, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>
</p>
<p>Chilonga fort, ruins of, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>
</p>
<p>Chimbi river, underground passage near, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>
</p>
<p>Chimoia, kraal of, <a href="#pb375" class="pageref">375</a>; <br>fertility of country, <a href="#pb376" class="pageref">376</a>; <br>lions in vicinity, <a href="#pb377" class="pageref">377</a>
</p>
<p>China, Celadon pottery from, in Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Chipadzi village in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>; <br>ruins near, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Chipiez, M. See Perrot and Chipiez, MM.
</p>
<p>Chipunza’s village, wall-building in, <a href="#pb339" class="pageref">339</a>; <br>interesting ruin near, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>; <br>aspect of the country, <a href="#pb348" class="pageref">348</a>; camping in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native craving for salt, <a href="#pb351" class="pageref"><span class="corr" id="xd31e7871" title="Source: 349">351</span></a>; <br>interview with chief, <a href="#pb351" class="pageref">351</a>; <br>savage etiquette, <i>ib.</i>; <br>beer and beer-drinking, <a href="#pb351" class="pageref">351</a>, <a href="#pb352" class="pageref">352</a>; <br>native courtesy, <a href="#pb352" class="pageref">352</a>; <br>fortress at, <a href="#pb353" class="pageref">353</a>; <br>Chipadzi’s tomb, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Colonial Institute, Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund’s lecture at the, on ancient gold-mining in Mashonaland,
<a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>
</p>
<p>Conder, Major, on the circular ruin near the Lundi river, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>
</p>
<p>Congo river, discovery of iron bells on the, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a>
</p>
<p>Corvo on Portuguese exploration in Africa, <a href="#pb243" class="pageref">243</a>; <br>on the ancient gold-mines in Mazoe valley, <span class="pageNum" id="pb416">[<a href="#pb416">416</a>]</span>295; <br>on early Portuguese enterprise in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>
</p>
<p>Couto, Portuguese author, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>
</p>
<p>Covilham, Pedro de, Portuguese explorer, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>; <br>his death in Abyssinia, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Cyprus, Phœnician coin found in, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>excavations in, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Dalmatia, ingot mould found in, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>
</p>
<p>Dapper’s description of Mashonaland ruins, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>
</p>
<p>Deir-el-Bahari, monuments of, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>
</p>
<p>Delft pottery in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>
</p>
<p>Dendema in occupation of Zendj tribes, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
</p>
<p>Denderah, zodiac of, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>
</p>
<p>Diodorus on tin ingots found in ancient Britain, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>; <br>on the Egyptian gold-mines at Wadi Allaga, <a href="#pb218" class="pageref">218</a>
</p>
<p>Dutch nomenclature, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>
</p>
<p>Dyer, Mr. Thiselton, Director of Kew Gardens, on the age of the baobab, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>, <a href="#pb136" class="pageref">136</a>
</p>
<p>Edrisi, geographer, on Zendj tribes of East Africa, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
</p>
<p>Egyptian gold-mines in Wadi Allaga, <a href="#pb218" class="pageref">218</a>; <br>commerce on the Red Sea, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>
</p>
<p>Elibi river, ruin near, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>
</p>
<p>Emesa, Syria, temple of the sun at, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Eratosthenes, historian, on Arabian tribes, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Evans, Sir John, on ingot mould found in Dalmatia, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>
</p>
<p>Ezekiel’s denunciation of Tyre, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Fallow-paunches, a wild tribe of the Kalahari desert, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>
</p>
<p>Falmouth, ingot of tin found in harbour of, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>; <br>Sir Henry James’s pamphlet on, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Farao, Signor, governor of Senna, on regal burials at Magonio, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>
</p>
<p>Fitzwilliam Museum at Cambridge, cylindrical marble object from Cyprus, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Forbes, Major, destruction of Kaffir village by, <a href="#pb299" class="pageref">299</a>
</p>
<p>France, mythical inhabitants of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>Gama, Vasco da, Portuguese explorer, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Gambidji country, <a href="#pb270" class="pageref">270</a>; <br>extent of, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a>; <br>tattooed women in, <a href="#pb305" class="pageref">305</a>
</p>
<p>Gamitto, Portuguese traveller, on lion worship, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>
</p>
<p>Gasetsive, chief of Kanya, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>death and funeral of, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a>; <br>visit to his widow, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Gaza, kraal of, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a>
</p>
<p>Geographical Society, Royal, expedition assisted by, <a href="#pb4" class="pageref">4</a>; <br>Museum at Lisbon, <a href="#pb212" class="pageref">212</a>
</p>
<p>Girandali, native bearer from Kunzi’s kraal, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>
</p>
<p>Glaser, Herr Edward, Arabian traveller, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Godobgwe stream, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>
</p>
<p>Gona, village of, <a href="#pb257" class="pageref">257</a>; <br>larder trees at, <a href="#pb257" class="pageref">257</a>, <a href="#pb258" class="pageref">258</a>; <br>savage ornaments of inhabitants, <a href="#pb258" class="pageref">258</a>; <br>growth of tobacco, <i>ib.</i>; <br>rice-fields, <i>ib.</i>; <br>prosperity of kraal, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Gouveia, a Portuguese half-caste in ’Mtoko country, <a href="#pb318" class="pageref">318</a>
</p>
<p>Greece, mythical inhabitants of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>; <br>ancient legends of, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb417">[<a href="#pb417">417</a>]</span></p>
<p>Gungunyana, Zulu chief, raids of, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>
</p>
<p>Gutu, Makalanga chief of Gona, <a href="#pb257" class="pageref">257</a>
</p>
<p>Hadjar Kem, Malta, Cabiri temple ruins at, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>Hampden, Mount, isolation of, <a href="#pb285" class="pageref">285</a>
</p>
<p>Harris, Mr. F. R., Secretary of British South Africa Company, his letter to Chief
’Mtoko, <a href="#pb302" class="pageref">302</a>
</p>
<p>Hartley Hills, gold workings near, <a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a>
</p>
<p>Hatasou, Queen of Egypt, ingots of gold sent from kingdom of Punt to, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>; <br>native expedition in reign of, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>
</p>
<p>Hayman, Captain, conquers Portuguese at Massi-Kessi, <a href="#pb368" class="pageref">368</a>; <br>guns and ammunition captured by troops of, <a href="#pb369" class="pageref">369</a>
</p>
<p>Heany and Johnson, Messrs., pioneer work in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb371" class="pageref">371</a>; <br>failure of their expedition, <a href="#pb377" class="pageref">377</a>
</p>
<p>Hepburn, Mr., missionary at Palapwe, <a href="#pb24" class="pageref">24</a>
</p>
<p>Herodian’s description of the sacred cone in Syrian temple, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Herodotus on the origin of the phallus, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a>; <br>on the worship of the Arabians, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a>; <br>on Egyptian sacrifice, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>; <br>on the circumnavigation of Africa, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>
</p>
<p>Hierapolis, Mesopotamia, temple at, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>; <br>phalli in temple at, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a>
</p>
<p>Himyaritic supremacy in Arabia, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>inscriptions, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Hippalus and his knowledge of monsoons, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Hogarth, Mr., and the excavations at Paphos, in Cyprus, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Holub, Dr. Emil, ‘Seven Years in South Africa’ by, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>
</p>
<p>Horace on Arabian wealth, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Horapollo on the vulture, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>
</p>
<p>Iguzu, native servant attached to author’s expedition, <a href="#pb278" class="pageref">278</a>; <br>accompanies author to chief ’Mtoko’s country, <a href="#pb302" class="pageref">302</a>
</p>
<p>Ikomo, brother to the chief of Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a>; <br>his kraal on Zimbabwe hill, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>; <br>taking leave of, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>
</p>
<p>Imiridzi, village of, <a href="#pb256" class="pageref">256</a>; <br>knitting industry at, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Impakwe river, Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund’s description of ruins, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>; <br>Mr. Moffat’s account, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Inyagurukwe, native search for gold at, <a href="#pb337" class="pageref">337</a>
</p>
<p>Inyamanda, arrival of expedition at, <a href="#pb34" class="pageref">34</a>; <br>trade at, <i>ib.</i>; <br>scarcity of meat, <a href="#pb35" class="pageref">35</a>; <br>human vultures, <i>ib.</i>; <br>flora, <i>ib.</i>; <br>villages, <i>ib.</i>; <br>rock tunnel, <i>ib.</i>; <br>family charms, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>; <br>view from summit of rock, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a>
</p>
<p>Inyota mountain, ancient gold-workings in, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>
</p>
<p>Inyuni range, as viewed from Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>
</p>
<p>Isafuba game, holes for, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a>
</p>
<p>Ishmaelites, fetichism of, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>James, Sir Henry, on tin ingot found in Falmouth Harbour, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>
</p>
<p>John II., King of Portugal, equips an expedition to Africa, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Johnson, Mr. See Heany and Johnson, Messrs.
</p>
<p>Jomvga, a curious granite <span class="pageNum" id="pb418">[<a href="#pb418">418</a>]</span>mountain in Kunzi country, <a href="#pb315" class="pageref">315</a>
</p>
<p>Jumbo mine in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>
</p>
<p>Kaaba stone at Mecca, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>Kaffir beer, <a href="#pb58" class="pageref">58</a>; <br>language, <i>ib.</i>; <br>cemetery near Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>; <br>habitation, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a>; <br>tribes at Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a>; <br>instruments enumerated by Dos Santos, <a href="#pb212" class="pageref">212</a>; <br>manufacture of iron ingots, <a href="#pb218" class="pageref">218</a>; <br>death-wailing in villages, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>
</p>
<p>Kalahari desert route, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>
</p>
<p>Kalimazondo, kraal of, <a href="#pb334" class="pageref">334</a>; <br>interview with chief, <i>ib.</i>; <br>camp of Mr. Selous at, <a href="#pb335" class="pageref">335</a>
</p>
<p>Kanya, road to, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>; <br>town of, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>; <br>its inhabitants, <i>ib.</i>; <br>character of scenery, <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>
</p>
<p>Karnak, Egyptian temples at, <a href="#pb138" class="pageref">138</a>
</p>
<p>Kerbela, Mohammedan burial at, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>
</p>
<p>Khama, native chief, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>cattle disease in country of, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>migration of his tribe, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a>; <br>his reputation, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>; <br>his power and intolerance, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>; <br>his religious enthusiasm, <i>ib.</i>; <br>prohibits beer-drinking among his tribe, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>; <br>his discipline, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a>; <br>interview with, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>
</p>
<p>Kharabit, Sabæan king, East Africa in possession of, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Kimberley, purchases at, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>
</p>
<p>Kirk, Sir John, at Quiloa, <a href="#pb205" class="pageref">205</a>
</p>
<p>Kremer, Herr, on the solstitial use of emblems, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>on the ancient cult of Arabia, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>; <br>his allusions to stone-worship, <i>ib.</i>; <br>on the Arabian system of totems, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>
</p>
<p>Kum, Mohammedan burial at, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>
</p>
<p>Kunzi country, description of chief, <a href="#pb306" class="pageref">306</a>; <br>iron-smelting furnace in, <a href="#pb307" class="pageref">307</a>; <br>hospitality of chief’s brother Gwadeli, <a href="#pb308" class="pageref">308</a>; <br>interesting relics obtained by author, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a>; <br>woman’s dress of woven bark fibre, <i>ib.</i>; <br>fetichism in, <a href="#pb310" class="pageref">310</a>; <br>bathing and washing, <i>ib.</i>; <br>chief’s wives, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a>; <br>native fishing, <i>ib.</i>; <br>dainty viands, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>; <br>love of salt, <i>ib.</i>; <br>hand-clapping and greetings, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native bracelets, <a href="#pb313" class="pageref">313</a>; <br>Mount Jomvga, <a href="#pb315" class="pageref">315</a>
</p>
<p>Limpopo river, ruins near junction with the Elibi, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>; <br>ancient gold-mines in vicinity, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Linchwe, native chief, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>, <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>
</p>
<p>Lisbon, Geographical Society’s Museum at, <a href="#pb212" class="pageref">212</a>
</p>
<p>Livingstone, Dr., at Shoshong, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>
</p>
<p>Livouri range, as viewed from Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>
</p>
<p>Lobengula, King of Matabeleland, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>raids of, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>; <br>and plural births, <a href="#pb316" class="pageref">316</a>
</p>
<p>Lockyer, Prof. Norman, on Egyptian temples at Karnak, <a href="#pb138" class="pageref">138</a>; <br>on the zodiac of Denderah, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>
</p>
<p>Lopodzi river, <a href="#pb375" class="pageref">375</a>
</p>
<p>Lotsani river, crossing the, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>
</p>
<p>Louvre, Phœnician column of marble in the, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a>; <br>remarks by MM. Perrot and Chipiez, <a href="#pb189" class="pageref">189</a>
</p>
<p>Luanhe, ancient Portuguese market in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>
</p>
<p>Lucian’s ‘De Syriâ Deá,’ <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>; <br>description of the temple at Hierapolis, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>; <br>allusion to Greek amulets, <a href="#pb187" class="pageref">187</a>
</p>
<p>Lundi river, crossing the, <a href="#pb42" class="pageref">42</a>; <br>adjacent population, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>; <br>agriculture near, <a href="#pb44" class="pageref">44</a>; <br>ruins in vicinity, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>; <br>description of <span class="pageNum" id="pb419">[<a href="#pb419">419</a>]</span>circular fort ruin near, <i>ib.</i>; <br>dimensions of ruin, <a href="#pb156" class="pageref">156</a>; <br>ornamental patterns on ruined temple, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a>
</p>
<p>Luti, village of, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>
</p>
<p>Lutilo mountain, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>; <br>deer in vicinity, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Lutzi, author’s stay at village of, <a href="#pb316" class="pageref">316</a>; <br>interview with lion priest, <a href="#pb328" class="pageref">328</a>; <br>festivities at, <a href="#pb330" class="pageref">330</a>
</p>
<p>Macloutsie, Border Police at, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>
</p>
<p>Madera, Portuguese Colonel, boycotts English immigrants in Mapanda’s country, <a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>
</p>
<p>Mafeking, stay of expedition at, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>; <br>routes from, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>Ba-rolong tribe of, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>
</p>
<p>Mafusaire, village of, <a href="#pb271" class="pageref">271</a>; <br>first white lady in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>tomb of a chief, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Magonio mountains, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>
</p>
<p>Makalanga tribes, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>their vanity, <a href="#pb37" class="pageref">37</a>; <br>ornaments for head, <a href="#pb38" class="pageref">38</a>; <br>witchcraft, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>; <br>domestic implements, <i>ib.</i>; <br>anklets and necklaces, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>; <br>character, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>; <br>religion, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a>; <br>musical instruments, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>; <br>Arabian influence, <i>ib.</i>; <br>beer brewing, <i>ib.</i>; <br>female brewers, <a href="#pb58" class="pageref">58</a>; <br>custom of hand-clapping, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>; <br>festivities and funerals, <a href="#pb77" class="pageref">77</a>; <br>graves at Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>; <br>sacrificial feasts, <i>ib.</i>; <br>playing the piano, <a href="#pb80" class="pageref">80</a>; <br>songs and music, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a>; <br>outdoor games, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a>; <br>interior of hut, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a>; <br>their ingenuity, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>; <br>a native born without hands, <a href="#pb253" class="pageref">253</a>; <br>dread of Shangan tribe, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>; <br>fear of horses, <a href="#pb271" class="pageref">271</a>; <br>architectural features of country, <a href="#pb275" class="pageref">275</a>; <br>native drawings, <a href="#pb276" class="pageref">276</a>; <br>rice-fields, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>
</p>
<p>Makoni chief, visit to, <a href="#pb284" class="pageref">284</a>; <br>his village and its inhabitants, <a href="#pb354" class="pageref">354</a>
</p>
<p>Makonyora village, <a href="#pb347" class="pageref">347</a>
</p>
<p>Makori post station, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>
</p>
<p>Malozo’s kraal, presentation of beer in, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a>; <br>hair-dressing in, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Malta, temple ruins in, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>Mandigo, kraal of, <a href="#pb377" class="pageref">377</a>; <br>tsetse pest, <i>ib.</i>; <br>abandoned waggons near, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Mangwendi’s country, ruined villages, <a href="#pb83" class="pageref">83</a>; <br>journey through, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a>; <br>visit to ruins, <a href="#pb336" class="pageref">336</a>; <br>description of chief’s kraal, <a href="#pb339" class="pageref">339</a>, <a href="#pb342" class="pageref">342</a>; <br>Bondoro worship in, <a href="#pb340" class="pageref">340</a>; <br>sacrifice in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>ploughing season, <a href="#pb341" class="pageref">341</a>; <br>wives and children of chief, <a href="#pb342" class="pageref">342</a>; <br>author’s departure from, <a href="#pb343" class="pageref">343</a>
</p>
<p>Manicaland, mountains of, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>, <a href="#pb354" class="pageref">354</a>; <br>valleys of, <a href="#pb355" class="pageref">355</a>
</p>
<p>Mapanda’s country, waste of provisions in, <a href="#pb283" class="pageref">283</a>; <br>desperate condition of English immigrants, <a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>; <br>corrugated iron palaces, <a href="#pb381" class="pageref">381</a>; <br>camp attacked by lions at night, <i>ib.</i>; <br>ducking a Jew in the Pungwe, <a href="#pb382" class="pageref">382</a>; <br>British colony in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>island game on the Pungwe river, <i>ib.</i>; <br>island village of chief, <a href="#pb383" class="pageref">383</a>
</p>
<p>Mapandera, village of, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>
</p>
<p>Maphartes<span class="corr" id="xd31e9249" title="Not in source">,</span> a Sabæan dependency, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Marib, the ancient Saba and capital of the Sabæan kingdom in Arabia, <a href="#pb105" class="pageref">105</a>; <br>ruins of elliptic temple, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a>
</p>
<p>Marico district, Transvaal, ruins of stone huts in, <a href="#pb139" class="pageref">139</a>
</p>
<p>Marinus of Tyre on Semitic fetichism, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>; <br>his vagueness of information, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Mashah, a Makalanga native engaged by author, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a>; his life and adventures, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Mashanani, native servant attached to author’s expedition, <span class="pageNum" id="pb420">[<a href="#pb420">420</a>]</span>278; <br>accompanies author to chief ’Mtoko’s country, <a href="#pb302" class="pageref">302</a>
</p>
<p>Mashonaland, departure of expedition for, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>; <br>roads to, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>cattle disease <i>en route</i>, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>Government, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>; <br>interpreters, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>; <br>pioneers, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>intercourse with natives, <i>ib.</i>; <br>tribal feuds, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>; <br>Portuguese in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>description of country, <a href="#pb34" class="pageref">34</a>; <br>granite hills, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native head-rests, <a href="#pb36" class="pageref">36</a>; <br>skin-polishing, <a href="#pb38" class="pageref">38</a>; <br>dollasses, or wooden charms, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>; <br>witchcraft, <i>ib.</i>; <br>domestic and other implements, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>; <br>Zulu raids, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>; <br>native agriculture, <i>ib.</i>; <br>iron-smelting, <a href="#pb45" class="pageref">45</a>; <br>female decoration, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>; <br>quaintness of scenery, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>; <br>quadrupeds diseases, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>; <br>‘salted horses,’ <i>ib.</i>; <br>‘drunk sickness’ among oxen, <i>ib.</i>; <br>discovery of gold, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>; <br>bridge-building, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>; <br>tree-barking, <i>ib.</i>; <br>caterpillars as food, <i>ib.</i>; <br>sleeping in the forest, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a>; <br>forest scenery, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native game pits, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>; <br>beer-brewing, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>; <br>Kaffir language, <a href="#pb58" class="pageref">58</a>; <br>‘trekking’ for three months, <a href="#pb59" class="pageref">59</a>; <br>camp life and work at Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb60" class="pageref">60</a>; <br>native gunpowder manufacture, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>; <br>cotton-spinning, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native war-dance, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>; <br>festivities and funerals, <a href="#pb77" class="pageref">77</a>; <br>native pianos, <a href="#pb80" class="pageref">80</a>; <br>travelling in the wilds, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>; <br>extraordinary block of granite near Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a>; <br>Arabian influence in, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a>; <br>Umgabe’s kraal, <a href="#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>; <br>direful experience of a swamp, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a>; <br>archæology of ruined cities, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>; <br>ancient gold-mines, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>; <br>situation of the Great Zimbabwe ruins, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>; <br>architecture, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a>; <br>description of temples, <i>ib.</i>; <br>religious symbolism of birds, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>commerce of the ancients, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>; <br>gold-mining, <a href="#pb215" class="pageref">215</a>; <br>ancient gold-workings, <a href="#pb218" class="pageref">218</a>; <br>Arabian gold-diggers, <a href="#pb220" class="pageref">220</a>; <br>geography and ethnology of ruins, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>; <br>ancient output of gold, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>; <br>confusion in topography, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>; <br>Portuguese accounts of ruins, <a href="#pb238" class="pageref">238</a>; <br>first pioneers of Chartered Company, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>; <br>Toroa ruins, <i>ib.</i>; <br>early Arab trading, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a>; <br>Boer expeditions, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>; <br>unoccupied fertile land, <a href="#pb269" class="pageref">269</a>; <br>scanty population, <i>ib.</i>; <br>highest point in the country, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a>; <br>future Capital of gold-fields, <a href="#pb279" class="pageref">279</a>; <br>planting of British flag, <i>ib.</i>; <br>the ‘Mashonaland Times and Zambesia Herald,’ <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a>; <br>government stores, <i>ib.</i>; <br>hospital huts, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native engineering skill in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb288" class="pageref">288</a>; <br>Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund’s lecture on ancient gold-mining in the ’Mswezwe district, <a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>; <br>eland meat, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a>; <br>destruction of early Portuguese mission, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>; <br>winter in, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>; <br>native tattooing, <a href="#pb305" class="pageref">305</a>; <br>native fishing, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a>; <br>forest monotony, <a href="#pb315" class="pageref">315</a>; <br>domestic animals, <a href="#pb318" class="pageref">318</a>; <br>politics and religion, <a href="#pb326" class="pageref">326</a>; <br>privations of expedition, <a href="#pb343" class="pageref">343</a>; <br>highest inhabited spot, <a href="#pb354" class="pageref">354</a>; <br>magnificence of country, <a href="#pb362" class="pageref">362</a>; <br>tsetse fly, <a href="#pb363" class="pageref">363</a>; <br>Scotch enterprise, <a href="#pb365" class="pageref">365</a>; <br>Heany and Johnson’s pioneer work, <a href="#pb371" class="pageref">371</a>; <br>Portuguese convicts, <a href="#pb373" class="pageref">373</a>; <br>native bearers, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Pungwe route, <a href="#pb378" class="pageref">378</a>; <br>fauna, <a href="#pb380" class="pageref">380</a>; <br>proposed railway from Beira port to the interior, <a href="#pb386" class="pageref">386</a>; <br>geography and meteorology, <a href="#pb389" class="pageref">389</a>; <br>list of stations astronomically observed, with altitudes, <a href="#pb398" class="pageref">398</a>; <br>progress from November 1891 to May 1893, <a href="#pb405" class="pageref">405</a>. <br>See also Zimbabwe.
<span class="pageNum" id="pb421">[<a href="#pb421">421</a>]</span></p>
<p>Masoudi, El, Arabian historian, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>; <br>on the Sabæan temples, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a>; <br>on ancient stone-worship in Arabia, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>; <br>on Zindj tribes of East Africa, <a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a>
</p>
<p>Masoupa in the Ba-Ngwatetse country, <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>; <br>native dancing and music, <i>ib.</i>; <br>heathenism, <a href="#pb12" class="pageref">12</a>
</p>
<p>Masouvo river, and Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>
</p>
<p>Massapa mines and the Queen of Sheba’s gold, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>; <br>ancient Portuguese market in Mazoe valley, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p><span class="corr" id="xd31e9843" title="Source: Massi Kessi">Massi-Kessi</span>, early Portuguese influence at, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>; <br>journey to, <a href="#pb366" class="pageref">366</a>; <br>its Portuguese reminiscences, <a href="#pb367" class="pageref">367</a>; <br>golden bullets, <a href="#pb368" class="pageref">368</a>; <br>Chartered Company at, <i>ib.</i>; <br>engagement between Portuguese and English, <a href="#pb369" class="pageref">369</a>; <br>treaty concerning, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Portuguese hospitality, <a href="#pb370" class="pageref">370</a>
</p>
<p>Masunsgwe, Mount, visit to, <a href="#pb337" class="pageref">337</a>
</p>
<p>Matabeleland, King of, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>; <br>native raids on Shoshong, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>; <br>raid upon Cherumbila’s tribe, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a>; <br>raids on Chekatu, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a>; <br>raids in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb288" class="pageref">288</a>
</p>
<p>Matimbi, village of, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>; <br>description of chief; <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Matindela, ruins at, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>, <a href="#pb136" class="pageref">136</a>, <a href="#pb262" class="pageref">262</a>; <br>baobab trees, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>; <br>temple and walls, <a href="#pb137" class="pageref">137</a>, <a href="#pb156" class="pageref">156</a>; <br>meaning of the word, guinea-fowl, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>; <br>curious fruit, <i>ib.</i>; <br>gigantic trees, <a href="#pb264" class="pageref">264</a>; <br>honey-birds, <a href="#pb265" class="pageref">265</a>; <br>destruction around, <i>ib.</i>; <br>profusion of game, <i>ib.</i>; <br>hunting parties in locality, <i>ib.</i>; <br>game laws of the Makalangas, <a href="#pb266" class="pageref">266</a>
</p>
<p>Matzaire, chief of Chekatu village, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a>
</p>
<p>Mauch, Karl, German traveller in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>
</p>
<p>Maund, Mr. E. A., on the ruins at Tati and on the Impakwe, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>; <br>on ancient gold-mining in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>
</p>
<p>Maunga tribe, <a href="#pb354" class="pageref">354</a>
</p>
<p>Mazoe valley, ruins in, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>; <br>ruins of fort in gold-fields, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>; <br>author’s trip to, <a href="#pb284" class="pageref">284</a>; <br>native kraals, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>; <br>Mr. Selous’ hunting expedition, <i>ib.</i>; <br>huts and their inhabitants, <a href="#pb287" class="pageref">287</a>; <br>hand-made pottery of natives, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native beer, <i>ib.</i>; <br>huts of Mr. Fleming, gold prospector, <a href="#pb288" class="pageref">288</a>; <br>ancient gold-mines, <i>ib.</i>; <br>mountain caves, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Matabele raids, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native engineering skill, <a href="#pb288" class="pageref">288</a>; <br>enormous output of gold in ancient times, <a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a>; <br>modern invasion, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Rothschild’s, Cherry’s, and Lockner’s settlements, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a>; <br>lemon-trees in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Mr. Nesbit’s hospitality, <i>ib.</i>; <br>visit to Yellow Jacket mine, <i>ib.</i>; <br>kindness of prospectors, <i>ib.</i>; <br>meat of the eland, <i>ib.</i>; <br>lion-shooting, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a>; <br>curious birds, <i>ib.</i>; <br>description of ruin, <i>ib.</i>; <br>valuable agricultural country, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>; <br>Chipadzi’s village, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Mapandera’s kraal, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Portuguese in, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>; <br>ancient Portuguese markets in, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Major Forbes’s punishment of Kaffirs, <a href="#pb299" class="pageref">299</a>; <br>modern agricultural farms<span class="corr" id="xd31e10165" title="Not in source">,</span> <a href="#pb300" class="pageref">300</a>
</p>
<p>Mecca, Kaaba stone at, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>Mediterranean, prehistoric excavations on the, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>
</p>
<p>Meshed, Mohammedan burial at, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>
</p>
<p>Mesopotamia, temple at Hierapolis, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>; <br>Sabæan temples, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a>
</p>
<p>Metemo fort, ruins of, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb422">[<a href="#pb422">422</a>]</span></p>
<p>Metzwandira, author’s Makalanga body-servant, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>
</p>
<p>Midianites, sacred tower of the, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>Mineni river, accident on, <a href="#pb371" class="pageref">371</a>
</p>
<p>Mines, Royal School of, cast of ingot of tin found in Falmouth Harbour, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>
</p>
<p>M’lala, village of, <a href="#pb44" class="pageref">44</a>; <br>stomach decoration among women, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a>; <br>costumes of natives, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a>; <br>witch doctor, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Mocaranga tribe, land of, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>Dos Santos’ account, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>; <br>Bocarro’s description of race, <a href="#pb339" class="pageref">339</a>
</p>
<p>Moffat, Dr., at Shoshong, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>
</p>
<p>Moffat, Mr., political agent in Matabeleland, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>
</p>
<p>Molopolole river, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a>
</p>
<p>Mondoro, or lion priest, in ’Mtokoland, <a href="#pb326" class="pageref">326</a>; <br>interviews with, <a href="#pb327" class="pageref">327</a>
</p>
<p>Monomatapa, empire of, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>civilisation, <a href="#pb215" class="pageref">215</a>; <br>Portuguese travellers on wealth of emperor, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>; <br>confusion of name, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Father dos Santos’ description of the people, <a href="#pb236" class="pageref">236</a>; <br>Leo Africanus’ account of ruins, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>; <br>Da Costa’s letter to the King of Portugal concerning ruins, <a href="#pb242" class="pageref">242</a>; <br>stronghold for chief’s wives at Chiburga, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a>; <br>Portuguese account of Monomatapa, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>, <a href="#pb332" class="pageref">332</a>; <br>their treaty with chief, <a href="#pb352" class="pageref">352</a>
</p>
<p>Monteiro, Portuguese traveller, on the Zambesi tribes, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>; <br>on lion worship, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>
</p>
<p>Montfaucon, M., on tower worship, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>Montsoia, native chief, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>
</p>
<p>M’shagashi river, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>
</p>
<p>’Mswezwe, shafts in river district, <a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a>; <br>Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund on ancient gold-mining at, <a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>
</p>
<p>’Mtasa, lord of the Nica tribe, <a href="#pb356" class="pageref">356</a>; <br>mountains in country of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>British in possession of kraal, <a href="#pb357" class="pageref">357</a>; <br>conflicting interests of England and Portugal in land of, <a href="#pb357" class="pageref">357</a>, <a href="#pb359" class="pageref">359</a>; <br>Bushman drawings in village, <a href="#pb359" class="pageref">359</a>
</p>
<p>’Mtigeza, chiefs around Mount Wedza, <a href="#pb273" class="pageref">273</a>; <br>their fortress, <i>ib.</i>; <br>interior of huts, <a href="#pb276" class="pageref">276</a>
</p>
<p>’Mtoko country, presents for chief, <a href="#pb284" class="pageref">284</a>; <br>author’s embassy to, <a href="#pb301" class="pageref">301</a>; <br>births and marriages, <a href="#pb316" class="pageref">316</a>; <br>marauding transactions, <a href="#pb317" class="pageref">317</a>; <br>native customs, <i>ib.</i>; <br>language, <a href="#pb318" class="pageref">318</a>; <br>cattle, <i>ib.</i>; <br>chief’s kraal, <a href="#pb319" class="pageref">319</a>; <br>description of women, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Zambesi influence, <a href="#pb321" class="pageref">321</a>; <br>chief’s indignation with author, <i>ib.</i>; <br>a state visit, <a href="#pb323" class="pageref">323</a>; <br>nervousness of chief, <a href="#pb324" class="pageref">324</a>; <br>description of presents, <i>ib.</i>; <br>chief’s opinion of the white lady, <a href="#pb325" class="pageref">325</a>; <br>hospitality of the natives, <i>ib.</i>; <br>politics and religion, <a href="#pb326" class="pageref">326</a>; <br>the Mondoro, or lion priest, <a href="#pb327" class="pageref">327</a>; <br>bucolic prosperity, <i>ib.</i>; <br>imminence of civil war, <a href="#pb328" class="pageref">328</a>; <br>early struggles with the Portuguese, <a href="#pb331" class="pageref">331</a>; <br>Bushman drawings, <a href="#pb333" class="pageref">333</a>
</p>
<p>Muali, the god of the Makalangas, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>, <a href="#pb341" class="pageref">341</a>
</p>
<p>Muchienda, village of, <a href="#pb258" class="pageref">258</a>; <br>native game-hunting, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Musungaikwa country, tattooed women in, <a href="#pb305" class="pageref">305</a>
</p>
<p>Mwairari river, crossing the, <a href="#pb268" class="pageref">268</a>
</p>
<p>Mycene, Dr. Schliemann’s discoveries at, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>;
</p>
<p>Naka pass, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>
</p>
<p>Nakab al Hajar, Arabia, ruins of castle at, <a href="#pb105" class="pageref">105</a>; <br>temple, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb423">[<a href="#pb423">423</a>]</span></p>
<p>Nankin china in Mazoe Valley, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>
</p>
<p>Natal, Bakalanga tribes in, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>
</p>
<p>Naucratis, <i>lebes</i> from temple at, in British Museum, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>
</p>
<p>Necho, Pharaoh, <span class="asc">B.C.</span> 600, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>
</p>
<p>Nejed, Lower, monoliths in, <a href="#pb119" class="pageref">119</a>
</p>
<p>Nesbit, Mr., mining commissioner, in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a>
</p>
<p>Neves Fereira, English immigrants boycotted by Portuguese governor of, <a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>
</p>
<p>Nhaya, Pedro de, Portuguese commander, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a>; <br>his capture of Sofala, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Nica tribe, lord of the, <a href="#pb356" class="pageref">356</a>
</p>
<p>’Nyagowe river, gold in quill found in, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a>
</p>
<p>Nyanger, camping at, <a href="#pb343" class="pageref">343</a>; <br>curious grotto, <a href="#pb344" class="pageref">344</a>; <br>Bushman drawings on rocks, <i>ib.</i>; <br>graves in cave, <i>ib.</i>; <br>cemeteries in the open, <a href="#pb345" class="pageref">345</a>; <br>ruins of temple, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>
</p>
<p>Nyangombwe mountains, <a href="#pb375" class="pageref">375</a>
</p>
<p>’Nyatzetse river, crossing the, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>; <br>agriculture near, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Odzani river, dangerous crossing of, <a href="#pb360" class="pageref">360</a>
</p>
<p>Odzi river, the boundary between Mashonaland and Manicaland, <a href="#pb356" class="pageref">356</a>
</p>
<p>Ophir, land of, theory concerning, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>
</p>
<p>Palapwe, migration of natives to, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a>; <br>Ba-mangwato tribe at, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>; <br>description of country, <a href="#pb24" class="pageref">24</a>; <br>mission-house, <i>ib.</i>; <br>cascade, <i>ib.</i>; <br>babooks, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native services, <i>ib.</i>; <br>church building, <i>ib.</i>; <br>discipline of chief, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a>; <br>native women, <a href="#pb27" class="pageref">27</a>; <br>departure of expedition, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>
</p>
<p>Palgrave, Arabian traveller, <a href="#pb118" class="pageref">118</a>
</p>
<p>Paphos, Cyprus, excavations at, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Payva, Alfonso de, Portuguese explorer, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Pegado, Captain Vicento, Portuguese governor of Sofala, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a>
</p>
<p>Pelasgi, mythical race of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>Penuel, the sacred tower of the Midianites, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>
</p>
<p>‘Periplus of the Red Sea,’ anonymous author of, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>; <br>his geographical speculations, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a>
</p>
<p>Perrot and Chipiez, MM., on art history in Sardinia, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>, <a href="#pb118" class="pageref">118</a>; <br>their work on ‘Phœnicia,’ <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>on the Phœnician column in the Louvre, <a href="#pb189" class="pageref">189</a>
</p>
<p>Persia, Mohammedan burial in, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>
</p>
<p>Philips, Mr. G., on the Zimbabwe and Tati ruins, <a href="#pb96" class="pageref">96</a>
</p>
<p>Phœnicia, temple construction in, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>; <br>coin found in Cyprus, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>symbols, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a>; <br>Biblical allusions to wealth of Arabia and, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>intimacy with Sabæa, <i>ib.</i>; <br>ancient enterprise, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Pigafetta’s description of Mashonaland ruins, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>
</p>
<p>Pilan, chief of Masoupa, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>, <a href="#pb12" class="pageref">12</a>
</p>
<p>Pliny, vagueness of information as to source of ancient Merchandise, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Portuguese in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>; <br>expeditions in Africa, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>; <br>failure of expeditions through Arab jealousy, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>
</p>
<p>Providential Pass, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>; <br>Cherumbila’s tribe at, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a>; <br>Matabele raid upon, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Ptolemy, vagueness of information as to source of ancient merchandise, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>; <br>mention of Agizymba nation, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a>; <br>on <span class="pageNum" id="pb424">[<a href="#pb424">424</a>]</span>Roman penetration through Africa, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Pungwe river, early Portuguese influence on the, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>; <br>at Sarmento, <a href="#pb378" class="pageref">378</a>; <br>its imposing appearance, <a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>; <br>infested with crocodile and hippopotami, <a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>, <a href="#pb385" class="pageref">385</a>; <br>fauna of adjacent country, <a href="#pb380" class="pageref">380</a>; <br>dangerous sandbanks, <a href="#pb384" class="pageref">384</a>
</p>
<p>Punt, kingdom of, its doubtful whereabouts, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>; <br>wealth of the people, <i>ib.</i>; <br>ingots of gold sent to Queen Hatasou, <i>ib.</i>; <br>conquered by Egyptians, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>; <br>theory concerning the land of Punt, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>
</p>
<p>Quiloa, Sir John Kirk at, <a href="#pb205" class="pageref">205</a>; <br>Arab settlement at, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a>
</p>
<p>Ramatlabama river, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a>
</p>
<p>Red Sea, Egyptian commerce on the, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>; <br>Arabian and Phœnician enterprise in region of, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>
</p>
<p>Renaudot, M., on Arab experience of savage tribes in East Africa, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
</p>
<p>Revwe river and valley, <a href="#pb367" class="pageref">367</a>
</p>
<p>Rhapta, Arab settlement at, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>; <br>Dean Vincent on the situation of, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Rome, its importation of gold from Arabia, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Rothschild’s settlement in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a>
</p>
<p>Rusapi river, Chipunza’s kraal on the, <a href="#pb348" class="pageref">348</a>
</p>
<p>Sabæa, its intimacy with Phœnicia, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>wealth of; <i>ib.</i>; <br>Arabian and Æthiopian cities named alike, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>
</p>
<p>Sabi river, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>ruins of forts, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>; <br>situation of ruins, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>; <br>author’s expedition to region of, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a>; <br>valley scenery, <a href="#pb259" class="pageref">259</a>; <br>view of mountains, <a href="#pb261" class="pageref">261</a>; <br>ruined villages and deserted fields near, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>; <br>Zulu raids on Makalanga villages, <i>ib.</i>; <br>its magnificence, <a href="#pb268" class="pageref">268</a>; <br>bathing and washing in, <a href="#pb269" class="pageref">269</a>
</p>
<p>Salisbury fort, daub huts of, <a href="#pb279" class="pageref">279</a>; <br>fever and famine, <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a>; <br>growth of townships around, <i>ib.</i>; <br>newspaper established, <i>ib.</i>; <br>civil and military administration<span class="corr" id="xd31e11126" title="Not in source">,</span> <i>ib.</i>; <br>hospital huts, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Benedictine sisters and Jesuit father, <i>ib.</i>; <br>anniversary dinner of pioneers at hotel, <a href="#pb281" class="pageref">281</a>; <br>the question of supplies, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Chartered Company’s difficulty in catering, <a href="#pb282" class="pageref">282</a>; <br>influx of adventurers, <i>ib.</i>; <br>danger of famine, <a href="#pb283" class="pageref">283</a>; <br>Mr. Selous in search of food waggons, <i>ib.</i>; <br>arrival of provisions, <i>ib.</i>; <br>climate of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>author’s departure for Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb284" class="pageref">284</a>; <br>his return therefrom, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>; <br>farewell to friends, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>; <br>trading with Kunziland natives, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a>
</p>
<p>Salt, Mr., in Abyssinia, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a>
</p>
<p>Salvador, San, iron bells discovered at, <a href="#pb212" class="pageref">212</a>
</p>
<p>Sangwe river, Mapandera’s kraal on, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>
</p>
<p>Santos, Father dos, Portuguese traveller, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>on Kaffir instruments, <a href="#pb212" class="pageref">212</a>; <br>his description of the Monomatapa tribe, <a href="#pb236" class="pageref">236</a>; <br>allusion to lemon-trees in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a>; <br>on sacrifice among the Mocarangas, <a href="#pb341" class="pageref">341</a>; <br>on feasting in Mangwendi’s country, <a href="#pb341" class="pageref">341</a>; <br>burial of chiefs, <a href="#pb346" class="pageref">346</a>; <br>on early Portuguese travellers, <a href="#pb352" class="pageref">352</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb425">[<a href="#pb425">425</a>]</span></p>
<p>Sardinia, round towers in, <a href="#pb116" class="pageref">116</a>; <br>MM. Perrot and Chipiez on history of art in, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>
</p>
<p>Sargon, annals of, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Sarmento, deserted coaches at, <a href="#pb378" class="pageref">378</a>; <br>climate of, <a href="#pb380" class="pageref">380</a>
</p>
<p>Schliemann, Dr., discoveries of, at Mycene, <a href="#pb185" class="pageref">185</a>
</p>
<p>Science, British Association for the Advancement of, expedition assisted by, <a href="#pb4" class="pageref">4</a>
</p>
<p>Sechele, native chief, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>; <br>capital and residence, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a>
</p>
<p>Sechuana language, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>; <br>superstition, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a>; <br>dancing, <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>; <br>marriage laws, <a href="#pb12" class="pageref">12</a>; <br>religion, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>
</p>
<p>Sekatu, village of, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a>; <br>growth of cucumbers at, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Selous, Mr., at Providential Pass, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>; <br>in search of provisions for Fort Salisbury, <a href="#pb283" class="pageref">283</a>; <br>hunting expedition in Mazoe valley, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>; <br>in chief ’Mtoko’s kraal, <a href="#pb321" class="pageref">321</a>; <br>at Kalimazondo’s kraal, <a href="#pb335" class="pageref">335</a>
</p>
<p>Selynia, pond of, <a href="#pb20" class="pageref">20</a>
</p>
<p>Semitic nations, monopolising policy of, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>
</p>
<p>Shamsi, Queen of Arabia, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Shangan tribes, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>raids on Sabi river region, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a>
</p>
<p>Shashi river, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>; <br>ruins in vicinity, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>
</p>
<p>Sheba, Queen of, and the Massapa gold-mines, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>
</p>
<p>Shoshong, journey to, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>; <br>arrival at, <a href="#pb20" class="pageref">20</a>; <br>hills of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>missionaries at, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a>; <br>traders at, <i>ib.</i>; <br>exodus of natives from, <i>ib.</i>; <br>water famine, <i>ib.</i>; <br>tribal raids on, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>; <br>ruins of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Dr. Livingstone and Dr. Moffat at, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a>
</p>
<p>Sibibabira, village of, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>
</p>
<p>Sikkome, father of Khama, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a>
</p>
<p>Silveira, Father, Portuguese Jesuit, martyrdom of, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>
</p>
<p>Sindito, chief of Sekatu village, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a>; <br>hospitality of, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Siorma in occupation of Zendj tribes, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
</p>
<p>Sirwah, elliptic temple at, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a>
</p>
<p>Smet, village of, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a>
</p>
<p>Sofala, Arabian writers on gold of, <a href="#pb230" class="pageref">230</a>; <br>Portuguese in possession, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a>; <br>Duarte Barbosa on the gold trade, <i>ib.</i>; <br>ancient historian’s account of, <i>ib.</i>; <br>tribes of cannibals near, <a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a>; <br>golden mountains near, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>; <br>manufacture of brass ornaments, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Portuguese governor at, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a>
</p>
<p>Solomon, King, expedition of, <a href="#pb226" class="pageref">226</a>
</p>
<p>Soudan, carving from the, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>
</p>
<p>Stonehenge, mythical builders of, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a>
</p>
<p>Swan, Mr. Robert McNair Wilson, cartographer to expedition, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>; <br>on the orientation and measurements of Zimbabwe ruins, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a>; <br>on the geography and meteorology of Mashonaland, <a href="#pb389" class="pageref">389</a>; <br>his astronomical observations, with altitudes of stations, <a href="#pb398" class="pageref">398</a>
</p>
<p>Syria, Phœnician temple of the sun at Emesa, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>
</p>
<p>Taif, Arabia, stone-worship at, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>Tatagora valley, scenery in, <a href="#pb285" class="pageref">285</a>; <br>the machabel tree, <i>ib.</i>; <br>junction of river with Mazoe, <a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>
</p>
<p>Tati, ruins of, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>; <br>description thereof by Mr. G. Philips and Mr. E.&nbsp;A. Maund, <a href="#pb96" class="pageref">96</a>
</p>
<p>Taungs, native settlement at, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>
</p>
<p>Thebes, Bœotia, relics from, <a href="#pb205" class="pageref">205</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb426">[<a href="#pb426">426</a>]</span></p>
<p>Tiglath Pileser II., Assyrian inscriptions concerning, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>
</p>
<p>Todd, Dr., of the ‘Magicienne,’ succours English immigrants in Mapanda’s country,
<a href="#pb379" class="pageref">379</a>
</p>
<p>Tokwe river, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>
</p>
<p>Toroa, Leo Africanus on ruins of, <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>
</p>
<p>Torrend, Father, on Mashonaland, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>
</p>
<p>Transvaal, ruins of stone huts in the Marico district, <a href="#pb139" class="pageref">139</a>
</p>
<p>Truro Museum, ingot of tin from Falmouth Harbour, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>
</p>
<p>Tuli fort, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>
</p>
<p>Tyre, Ezekiel’s denunciation of, <a href="#pb227" class="pageref">227</a>; <br>Zechariah on wealth of, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>
</p>
<p>Umfanipatza, village of, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>
</p>
<p>Umgabe, chief of Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb65" class="pageref">65</a>; <br>his personal appearance, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>; <br>his brother Ikomo, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a>; <br>visit to Umgabe’s kraal, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a>; <br>his intoxicated condition, <i>ib.</i>; <br>uncomfortable quarters, <i>ib.</i>; <br>situation of kraal, <a href="#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>; <br>his well-filled granaries, <a href="#pb88" class="pageref">88</a>; <br>domestic commodities, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Umliwan district, fertility of, <a href="#pb371" class="pageref">371</a>
</p>
<p>Umtali, trip to, <a href="#pb284" class="pageref">284</a>; <br>ancient gold-mining at, <a href="#pb290" class="pageref">290</a>; <br>B.S.A. camp at, <a href="#pb360" class="pageref">360</a>; <br>arrival of author, <a href="#pb361" class="pageref">361</a>; <br>importance of, <a href="#pb363" class="pageref">363</a>; <br>Portuguese remains near fort, <a href="#pb364" class="pageref">364</a>; <br>journey to Beira, <a href="#pb365" class="pageref">365</a>
</p>
<p>Umzilikatze, Zulu warrior, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>
</p>
<p>Varoma, Mount, at Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb160" class="pageref">160</a>
</p>
<p>Victoria fort, fever at, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>; <br>dearness of provisions, <i>ib.</i>; <br>horse sickness, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>; <br>sour grass, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>; <br>discovery of gold near, <i>ib.</i>; <br>bridge-building in vicinity, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>; <br>Sir John Willoughby at, <a href="#pb74" class="pageref">74</a>; <br>departure for Sabi river, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>; <br>prospecting for gold, <a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a>
</p>
<p>Vincent, Dean, on the situation of Rhapta, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>
</p>
<p>Vryberg, arrival and departure of expedition, <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a>; <br>native settlement at, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a>
</p>
<p>Wadi Allaga gold-mines, <a href="#pb218" class="pageref">218</a>
</p>
<p>Wedza, Mount, highest point in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a>; <br>iron-smelting at, <i>ib.</i>; <br>chiefs in vicinity, <a href="#pb273" class="pageref">273</a>
</p>
<p>Willoughby, Sir John, at Fort Victoria, <a href="#pb74" class="pageref">74</a>; <br>visits the expedition at Zimbabwe, <i>ib.</i>; <br>interviews the chief’s brother, Ikomo, and threatens him, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>‘<span lang="de">Wissenschaft, Akademie der</span>,’ by Herr Kremer, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
<p>Yandoro, a village in Kunzi’s country, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>
</p>
<p>Yellow Jacket mine, visit to, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>
</p>
<p>Yemen, temples and fortresses in, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a>
</p>
<p>Yenya mountains, <a href="#pb356" class="pageref">356</a>
</p>
<p>Zambesi river, Zimbabwes in region of, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>; <br>early Portuguese influence on the, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>
</p>
<p>Zamopera, village of, <a href="#pb270" class="pageref">270</a>; <br>its inhabitants, <i>ib.</i>
</p>
<p>Zechariah on the wealth of Tyre, <a href="#pb228" class="pageref">228</a>
</p>
<p>Zendj tribes, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>; <br>iron trade with Indians, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>
</p>
<p>Zeyd, Abou, on the wild Zindj tribes of East Africa, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
<span class="pageNum" id="pb427">[<a href="#pb427">427</a>]</span></p>
<p>Zimbabwe, tribes around, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>; <br>sickness among oxen, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>; <br>adjacent forests, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a>; <br>description of the country, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>; <br>fever in camp, <i>ib.</i>; <br>character of natives, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>; <br>arrival of expedition, <a href="#pb59" class="pageref">59</a>; <br>camp life, <a href="#pb60" class="pageref">60</a>; <br>flora of, <i>ib<span class="corr" id="xd31e11981" title="Not in source">.</span></i>; <br>alarming fire, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a>; <br>visitors in camp, <a href="#pb64" class="pageref">64</a>; <br>ruins, <a href="#pb64" class="pageref">64</a>, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a>, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>; <br>daily work, <a href="#pb64" class="pageref">64</a>; <br>evening concerts, <a href="#pb65" class="pageref">65</a>; <br>visit of Umgabe, district chief, <i>ib.</i>; <br>native wages, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a>; <br>difficulties with workmen, <i>ib.</i>; <br>provisions and marketing, <a href="#pb70" class="pageref">70</a>; <br>native ingenuity, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>; <br>ornaments and snuff-boxes, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>; <br>the chief’s brother in camp, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a>; <br>trouble with natives, <i>ib.</i>; <br>kraal of Ikomo, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>; <br>Amazonian dance, <i>ib.</i>; <br>graves among the ruins, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>; <br>musical instruments, <a href="#pb80" class="pageref">80</a>, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>; <br>excursions from, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a>; <br>beer-making, <a href="#pb83" class="pageref">83</a>; <br>locust-eating, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>; <br>migratory spirit of the natives, scenery around, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a>; <br>Mr. G. Philips’s description of the ruins, <a href="#pb96" class="pageref">96</a>; <br>prominent features of the Great Zimbabwe ruins, <a href="#pb104" class="pageref">104</a>; <br>excavation work, <i>ib.</i>; <br>religious purport of ruined towers, <a href="#pb115" class="pageref">115</a>; <br>sacrifice, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>; <br>Kaffir cemetery, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a>; <br>description of hill fortress, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a>; <br>labyrinthine nature of buildings, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a>; <br>gold-smelting furnaces and caves, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a>; <br>ruins of Little Zimbabwe, <a href="#pb135" class="pageref">135</a>; <br>orientation and measurements of ruins by Mr. R.&nbsp;M.&nbsp;W. Swan, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a>; <br>nature worship, <i>ib.</i>; <br>astronomical observations, <a href="#pb147" class="pageref">147</a>, <a href="#pb170" class="pageref">170</a>, <a href="#pb173" class="pageref">173</a>; <br>architectural features, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a>; <br>coin of Byblos, <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a>; <br>soapstone monoliths, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a>; <br>ancient builders, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a>; <br>discoveries during excavation, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a>; <br>traces of recent Kaffir habitation, <i>ib.</i>; <br>soapstone carvings, <i>ib.</i>; <br>religious symbolism of birds, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>; <br>circumcision practised by the ancients, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a>; <br>ancient veneration for stones, <a href="#pb191" class="pageref">191</a>; <br>geological fragments, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a>, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>; <br>old-world worship, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>; <br>artistic skill of the ancients, <a href="#pb196" class="pageref">196</a>; <br>fragments of soapstone bowls, <a href="#pb197" class="pageref">197</a>; <br>Phœnician work, <i>ib.</i>; <br>proto-Arabian lettering on bowls, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>; <br>world-wide commerce of the ancients, <a href="#pb204" class="pageref">204</a>; <br>Celadon pottery from China, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Persian and Arabian wares, <i>ib.</i>; <br>Monomatapa rule, <a href="#pb205" class="pageref">205</a>; <br>ceramic art, <a href="#pb207" class="pageref">207</a>; <br>bronze and iron weapons and implements, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>; <br>ruins scoured by Kaffirs for centuries, <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a>; <br>excavation of iron weapons and implements, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a>; <br>discovery of iron bells, <i>ib.</i>; <br>gold-smelting furnace, <a href="#pb215" class="pageref">215</a>; <br>Arabian origin of gold-diggers, <a href="#pb220" class="pageref">220</a>; <br>discovery of gold-smelting crucibles, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>; <br>derivation of name, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>; <br>modern exploration of ruins by a German traveller, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>; <br>thirst for gold among the ancients, <a href="#pb279" class="pageref">279</a>
</p>
<p>Zindj tribes in Africa, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a>; <br>Abou Zeyd’s description of, <a href="#pb233" class="pageref">233</a>
</p>
<p>Zulu raids in Mashonaland, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>; <br>successes under Umzilikatze, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a>
</p>
<p>Zygabenus on Ishmaelite stone-worship, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 map"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first"></p>
<div class="figure mapwidth"><a href="images/maph.png"><img src="images/map.png" alt="Part of MATABELE, MASHONA and MANICA LAND" width="720" height="615"></a><p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Part of</span> MATABELE, MASHONA <span class="sc">and</span> MANICA LAND</p>
</div><p>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="div1 imprint"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody">
<p class="first center small"><i>Spottiswoode &amp; Co. Printers, New-street Square, London.</i>
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<div class="transcriberNote">
<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2>
<h3 class="main">Availability</h3>
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<h3 class="main">Metadata</h3>
<table class="colophonMetadata" summary="Metadata">
<tr>
<td><b>Title:</b></td>
<td>The ruined cities of Mashonaland</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Author:</b></td>
<td>James Theodore Bent (1852–1897)</td>
<td>Info <span class="externalUrl">https://viaf.org/viaf/32150419/</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Author:</b></td>
<td>Robert McNair Wilson Swan (1858–1904)</td>
<td>Info <span class="externalUrl">https://viaf.org/viaf/207290464/</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>File generation date:</b></td>
<td>2022-09-29 19:38:46 UTC</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Language:</b></td>
<td>English</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Original publication date:</b></td>
<td>1895</td>
<td></td>
</tr> </table>
<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3>
<ul>
<li>2022-02-22 Started. </li>
</ul>
<h3 class="main">External References</h3>
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<th>URL</th>
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<tr>
<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e61ext" href="#xd31e61">N.A.</a>, <a class="pageref" id="xd31e64ext" href="#xd31e64">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesmash00bentiala</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e55ext" href="#xd31e55">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesofma0000unse</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e71ext" href="#xd31e71">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesofma00bent</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e68ext" href="#xd31e68">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesofma00bent_0</span></td>
</tr>
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<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e52ext" href="#xd31e52">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesofma00bentiala</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a class="pageref" id="xd31e58ext" href="#xd31e58">N.A.</a></td>
<td><span class="externalUrl">https://archive.org/details/ruinedcitiesofma00bentuoft</span></td>
</tr>
</table>
<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3>
<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p>
<table class="correctionTable" summary="Overview of corrections applied to the text.">
<tr>
<th>Page</th>
<th>Source</th>
<th>Correction</th>
<th>Edit distance</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e323">xix</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">
[<i>Not in source</i>]
</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en"> the</td>
<td class="bottom">4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e1684">26</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">alw ays</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">always</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e2539">118</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">.)</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">).</td>
<td class="bottom">2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e2984">179</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd31e11981">427</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">
[<i>Not in source</i>]
</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">.</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e3500">231</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">l’</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">’l</td>
<td class="bottom">2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e3577">238</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="pt">bracas</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="pt">braças</td>
<td class="bottom">1 / 0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e3964">287</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">M’toko’s</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">’Mtoko’s</td>
<td class="bottom">2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e4048">296</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">depôts</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">dépôts</td>
<td class="bottom">1 / 0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e4107">302</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Iguzo</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Iguzu</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e4293">323</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">as</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">was</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e4418">339</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">
[<i>Not in source</i>]
</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">‘</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e4888">398</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Ramathlabama</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Ramatlabama</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e6828">405</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">.</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">,</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e7871">415</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">349</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">351</td>
<td class="bottom">2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e9249">419</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd31e10165">421</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd31e11126">424</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">
[<i>Not in source</i>]
</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">,</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd31e9843">421</a></td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Massi Kessi</td>
<td class="width40 bottom" lang="en">Massi-Kessi</td>
<td class="bottom">1</td>
</tr>
</table>
<h3 class="main">Abbreviations</h3>
<p>Overview of abbreviations used.</p>
<table class="abbreviationTable" summary="Overview of abbreviations used.">
<tr>
<th>Abbreviation</th>
<th>Expansion</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="bottom">B.S.A.</td>
<td class="bottom">British South Africa</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="bottom">F.O.S.</td>
<td class="bottom">Friend of Ally Sloper</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
</div>
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