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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cape Coddities, by Roger Livingston
-Scaife
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Cape Coddities
-
-Author: Roger Livingston Scaife
-
-Illustrator: Harold Cue
-
-Release Date: September 16, 2022 [eBook #68998]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Steve Mattern and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
- at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
- generously made available by The Internet Archive)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAPE CODDITIES ***
-
-
-
-
-
-
-CAPE-CODDITIES
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
- CAPE
- CODDITIES
-
- _By_
- DENNIS and MARION
- CHATHAM
-
- _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY_
- HAROLD CUE
-
- [Illustration]
-
- BOSTON AND NEW YORK
- HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
- 1920
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
-
- ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_FOREWORD_
-
-
-These essays—thumbnail sketches of Cape Cod—should not be taken as a
-serious attempt to describe the Cape or to delineate its people. They
-merely express a perennial enthusiasm for this summer holiday land,
-to-day the playground of thousands of Americans, three hundred years ago
-the first “land of the free and home of the brave.”
-
-Acknowledgments are here given to the _Atlantic Monthly_ for permission
-to include “A By-Product of Conservation” and “Scallops,” to _The
-Outlook_ for the same courtesy for “A Blue Streak,” and to _The House
-Beautiful_ for “A Casual Dwelling-Place.”
-
- THE AUTHORS.
-
-_January, 1920._
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_CONTENTS_
-
-
- I. _A Message from the Past_ 1
-
- II. _The Casual Dwelling-Place_ 10
-
- III. _The Ubiquitous Clam_ 27
-
- IV. _A By-Product of Conservation_ 38
-
- V. _Motor Tyrannicus_ 51
-
- VI. _“Change and Rest”—Summer Bargaining_ 69
-
- VII. _A Blue Streak_ 87
-
- VIII. _A Fresh-Water Cape_ 97
-
- IX. _Al Fresco_ 112
-
- X. _Models_ 122
-
- XI. “_A Wet Sheet and a Flowing Sea_” 132
-
- XII. _My Cape Farm_ 140
-
- XIII. _Scallops_ 154
-
- _Aftermath_ 166
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_CAPE-CODDITIES_
-
-
-
-
-I
-
-A MESSAGE FROM THE PAST
-
-
-Is it not strange that people who dwell in the same city block from
-October to May, enjoying with mutual satisfaction the life which touches
-them equally, should from May to October show such varying opinions that
-argument is futile? These people who have wintered so happily together
-may be placed in three classes—those who claim for the State of Maine the
-exclusive right to the title of “God’s Own Country,” those who think of
-the North Shore and Paradise as synonymous, and those other fortunates
-whose regard for Cape Cod places it second only to heaven itself.
-
-Therefore, it is interesting to read the following passages and to find
-these same divergent views of the Cape in earliest times.
-
-Captain John Smith in his account of New England in 1614, in a passing
-reference to Cape Cod, says it “is a headland of high hills of sand
-overgrown with shrubbie pines, hurts and such trash, but an excellent
-harbor for all weathers. This cape is made by the maine sea on one
-side and a great bay on the other, in the form of a sickle. On it doth
-inhabit the people of Pawmet and in the Bottome of the Bay, the people of
-Chawum.” Scant praise.
-
-Bartholomew Gosnold, writing to Raleigh in 1602, through the medium of
-his associate, John Brereton, said, “We stood a while like men ravished
-at the beautie and delicacie of this sweet soil”; and later, “truly the
-holsomnese and temperature of this climat doth not only argue this people
-(Indian) to be answerable to this description, but also of a perfect
-constitution of body, active, strong, healthful and very wittie.”
-
-Here spoke the original summer visitor and the founder of that colony
-which dots the coast from Marion to Manomet.
-
-If Gosnold could see the Cape on the present day, he would doubtless
-show profound disappointment, unless he had chanced to invest in shore
-property, for the forests teeming with game have disappeared, and no
-trace of the wit he describes can be detected among the few Indians who
-still cling to the shores of Mashpee Pond. But the broad waters, the
-sloping sands, and above all the soft climate which Mr. Brereton tells
-us did so much for the aborigine, and which now transforms our children
-into veritable little red men, remain.
-
-Despite the depredations which the Cape has suffered at the hands of
-both natives and summer residents, its flavor has been maintained, and
-the very fact that it is largely inhabited serves well in these days of
-friendly intercourse and indulgent habits; for we all of us must live
-happily in summer, and to do so means comfort, food, and drink. And so we
-find each town, however diminutive, possesses its Butcher and Baker and
-Candlestick-Maker.
-
-The latter, to be sure, is employed by the local electric light plant,
-and often his trade includes a knowledge of simple plumbing. The Baker
-more often is both Postmaster and Grocer, while the Butcher may be
-found to be the Chairman of the Board of Selectmen. But all are true to
-the type, and that wit which Gosnold so happily mentions may often be
-detected among these simple people, some of whom are sea captains whose
-taciturnity has been transformed into a shrewd cynicism coupled not
-infrequently with a delightful optimism. Rarely will a native Cape-Codder
-get the worst of a repartee and still more rarely will you find him the
-first to terminate a conversation. He is as tenacious in conversational
-competition as he is lax in business aggression. In fact, he would far
-rather stand on the corner and describe to you, in detail, the amount of
-work that has been shouldered upon him by So and So and So and So’s wife,
-than to make the slightest attempt to accomplish any of the sundry duties
-imposed. And yet he knows, and so do you, if you are at all versed in
-Cape ways, that he will receive ample financial return for his slightest
-service.
-
-There is no such word as hurry in the bright lexicon of Cape Cod, but
-I confess it with some trepidation, for my many Cape friends will take
-violent exception to my statement, true as it is. And yet I do not blame
-them. I believe it is thoroughly accounted for by the climate; for when I
-first visit the Cape in the spring or early summer, I always experience
-a languor which makes the slightest effort seem a task of large
-proportions. In short, I am lazy and prefer to see some one else do it.
-This feeling generally passes away with the sheer joy of vacation days,
-days of freedom and fresh air; but I realize that the climate breeds a
-lack of ambition, to which I doubtless would succumb were I to live on
-without interruption amid the Cape-Codders.
-
-And therefore I prefer to think of the Cape as a playground for the
-initiate, a wonderland for children, and a haven of rest for the tired of
-all ages, a land where lines and wrinkles quickly disappear under the
-soothing softness of the tempered climate.
-
-Joseph Lincoln has told us of the people; Thoreau has written of the
-place; but no one will really know the Cape unless he becomes a part of
-it.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-II
-
-THE CASUAL DWELLING-PLACE
-
-
-Is there a reader who has not at one time or another gloated over the
-terrors, the thrills, and the mysteries which, in fiction, invariably
-lie hidden in an unoccupied house? When one stops to think of it nearly
-all the literature of roguery, as so clearly set forth in former days by
-Wilkie Collins, Gaboriau, down to Conan Doyle and Mary Roberts Rinehart,
-possesses as its most important stage-setting an untenanted mansion. It
-may be one of those familiar villas generally located somewhere near
-Hampstead Heath, a house set apart from its neighbors and surrounded
-by a hedge; a house with every appearance of having been closed for
-several years and now showing the first signs of decay; or it may be one
-of those somber brownstone houses situated in one of the many New York
-residential streets, where every house so closely resembles its fellows
-as to court mischief to all who may return late at night; or again, it
-may be one of those palatial country houses set among lawns and gardens
-which are invariably described with broad, magnificent porticoes toward
-which spotless limousines are continually approaching at top speed for no
-apparent reason. Such a setting is perhaps the commonest, and the time is
-always just before the family arrive for the season or just after they
-have left for other equally expensive quarters. Now and then the novelist
-will modestly cast the fate of his story in the seclusion of a deserted
-cottage by the sea or a lonely hut among the hills, but rarely does this
-occur nowadays. The mystery story is as dependent upon luxury of setting
-as is the modern bachelor upon his creature comforts. And, therefore,
-if the devotee of fiction chose to apply himself to this theme, he
-would find that nearly all novelists, great and small, from Dickens
-to Oppenheim, from Hawthorne to Anna Katharine Green, have utilized
-the empty house to bring about the climactic point in the weaving of
-some gruesome tale. So clear are these fictional features that, by the
-association of ideas, one’s fears and apprehensions are invariably
-aroused whenever the occasion arises when an unoccupied house or even an
-untenanted apartment must be entered.
-
-With that unmistakable odor of mustiness comes afresh this uncomfortable
-sense of trepidation (hardly fear, perhaps), and with it a conviction
-that rats and mice are hidden spectators, and that the darkness and gloom
-could well hide crime as well as the thieves themselves. This entire
-mental state is largely caused by the aforesaid novelists, who I doubt
-not would have the same hesitancy in opening the door of a darkened
-chamber or in groping down the cellar stairs of a house long left to
-disintegration.
-
-In short, reading has trained us all to regard empty houses with
-suspicion, an absurd state of mind which should be quickly dispelled, for
-in the case of nine out of every ten, yes, or ninety-nine out of every
-hundred houses, there is no cause whatever for suspicion.
-
-There is a sunny little house on the shores of Buzzard’s Bay which
-remains unoccupied except for ten weeks in the summer. Its shutters are
-closed and fastened long before the oaks have turned to their gorgeous
-fall colorings or the marigolds and phlox have lost the freshness of
-their bloom.
-
-The soft, salty breeze, rippling the waters, the dancing rays of the
-September sun through the swaying pines, give a joyous setting to this
-cottage by the water, courting as it were an occupant. The hardiest of
-that overworked class of readers who rely upon mystery stories would
-find it difficult to conjure up a tragedy for such a spot. The native
-Cape-Codders, knowing the owners, always glance over toward the cottage
-as they pass by in the hope of finding a blind open or a light through
-the trees, to show that some of “ther fam’ly be down for Sunday.” For
-this is one of the important services which this particular cottage
-renders to its owners. As the scion of the family (aged ten) once sagely
-remarked, “We use the cottage more when it’s closed than when it’s open.”
-And to each and every member of this house its welcome is always the
-same. The family reach the house after dark on a Saturday night. The lock
-readily responds to familiar fingers, the door creaks a friendly welcome
-as the family grope their way through the hall in good-humored rivalry
-to see which shall be the first to secure the box of matches always kept
-on the right-hand corner of the mantelpiece in the living-room for this
-emergency. Then, as the lamps are lighted, the old familiar objects
-appear precisely as they had been left, perhaps six months before, with
-a coating of dust, to be sure, but nothing which a few moments and a
-dustcloth could not remove; for dust in this region is little known.
-True, the chairs, or at least such of them as possess cushions, are
-shrouded in covers. The sofa is a bulging conglomeration of cushions,
-gathered from all hammocks and piazza furniture; but a few deft passes
-by the fairy godmother of this establishment, and presto, the cushions
-are distributed and the sofa offers a cozy retreat for the entire party.
-Otherwise the living-room is livable. A fire ready laid is only waiting
-for a match and a turn of the hand to open the flue. Such is a cottage by
-the sea if it has been planned and built as it should be, not alone for
-summer use, but also for spring and autumn holidays.
-
-The little cottage in question is a very ancient affair. A long line
-of sturdy Cape-Codders dwelt in it, uncomfortably, for generations. It
-was not until a few years ago that it was entirely renovated, enlarged,
-and equipped for summer use. Much care and thought were given to its
-convenience, and it stands to-day as a model for perennial use as a
-casual habitation. But it has certain drawbacks; as, for instance,
-plaster. Such a cottage, to secure the maximum comfort with the minimum
-of expense, should be unplastered, and without a cellar so that the
-circulation of air will keep the house free from dampness. There should
-be a kerosene cooking-stove in the kitchen so that the cooking can be
-done without jeopardizing the water coil or boiler. Furthermore, unless
-one’s family and friends are experts in the culinary art, the usual stove
-fire is built regardless of the cost of coal or kindlings, and the
-fire itself is apt to take a good deal of time in the making, several
-trials often being necessary before the coals kindle into a respectable
-glow. The problem of water is perhaps the most troublesome. No house, of
-course, can be left with the water on during the winter season. These
-Cape cottages are no exception to the rule, and every pipe is carefully
-drained and the faucets greased to prevent rust.
-
-To go to the trouble of turning on the water system for an occasional
-Sunday or holiday was manifestly out of the question, and so the owner of
-this particular cottage solved the difficulty in true backwoods fashion.
-A small stone tank, placed in the closet behind the stove, holding not
-over five gallons of water, was always religiously filled. This served as
-lubricant for a hand pump at the kitchen sink. One of the first duties in
-starting in housekeeping was to heat a pail of this water, thaw out the
-pump, and thus secure the supply which adequately filled the family needs
-for the day or two of camp life to be enjoyed.
-
-You will ask what of bedding and blankets? They are there at hand. As
-a matter of fact, the less one puts away the better for each and every
-article. All blankets hung upon ropes stretched across the attic are dry
-and ready for use. Upon such occasions as the one noted, the family do
-without sheets and sleep fully as soundly. The blazing of the fire logs
-and the warmth of the living-room have given to all a drowsy feeling
-which defies wakefulness when once the head touches the pillow.
-
-If any one should contemplate making use of his summer house in this
-fashion, there are certain suggestions which it would be well to follow;
-points which any yachtsman or camper would never overlook.
-
-First of all, there should be a place for everything and everything
-should be in place. You can never tell when you will return. Perhaps you
-may be delayed and not arrive until after dark, chilled and hungry from
-a long motor ride. At such times a fire ready laid, with a good store of
-dried wood, is essential to happiness and comfort.
-
-There should always be a list of provisions left at the house so that
-you may avoid duplication in purchasing supplies. Besides food, there
-should also be such necessaries as soap, matches, and candles. These
-should always be left in the boxes to prevent the mice and squirrels
-from robbing one. A good scheme is to build a zinc-lined cupboard in the
-pantry in which to keep such perishables.
-
-Kerosene is dangerous to leave about, and it is well to bring this with
-you for the cook-stove; furthermore, it is hard to remember whether
-enough has been left at the house for twenty-four hours’ use.
-
-Care should always be taken to leave the small water tank filled unless
-you plan to secure your supply from a friend or neighbor.
-
-Your pots and pans, cutlery, dishes, and glasses should always be washed
-and put away in order before leaving, ready for instant use.
-
-A little system will make all the difference in the world in the comfort
-and enjoyment of such an outing, and will save labor, so that your actual
-work will be done in much less time and the daylight hours can be given
-over to the outdoor life which endears the place to each and every
-member of your family.
-
-Whether it be a canoe, a knockabout, a gun, or a fishing-line, the
-life outside the cottage will be a reflection of that within and
-your enjoyment will come from the facility with which you manage the
-essentials of simple living. And so after you have enjoyed your day in
-the open, you will return to the cottage and discover that the simple
-comforts which it offers, while perhaps lacking the luxury of your daily
-routine at home, will be enjoyed with a relish far beyond that existence
-in a brick block, amid a mass of bric-à-brac and surrounded by servants.
-In its place you will devour an unusual amount of food which tastes the
-better because you have cooked it, and later you will fall asleep with
-the wind singing in the trees, and the waves lapping the shores. The
-occasional barking of a dog will arouse no apprehension, and the dread of
-haunted houses, of mysterious deeds accomplished behind closed shutters,
-will have vanished until you are safe home again with a “thriller” to
-pass away the time before it is seasonable to retire.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-III
-
-THE UBIQUITOUS CLAM
-
- “They scattered up & down ... by yᵉ waterside, wher they could
- find ground nuts and clams.” (William Bradford, _History of
- Plymouth Plantation_, II, 130.)
-
-
-Surprising as it may seem, the clam, at least under his own name,
-does not appear in the Encyclopædia Britannica. And yet the clam is
-proverbial, metaphorical, and substantial, so substantial, in fact,
-that individuals of uncertain digestion have been rendered distinctly
-unhappy after a hearty encounter. But what is more surprising to the
-average person, and especially to the novice in clamming, is where all
-the clams come from for the unending clam-bakes, clam-chowders, and the
-various concoctions necessitating a generous supply of these silent
-shellfish. A journey to the beach at low tide (for all clammers know from
-the reference to that animal’s joyous spirit at high water that clamming
-is useless at that period) generally fails to accomplish more than a
-very lame back, muddy feet, and a paltry dozen or more specimens of the
-clam family, generally of immature age. The profusion of empty shells
-scattered about encourage the clammer into the belief that here, at
-least, is a favorable locality for his first efforts, and he grasps his
-fork and bends low, thrusting the implement into the black ooze with keen
-anticipation that the mud will disclose a whole family of clams, ready
-at hand for capture; but, instead, he is rewarded by finding a number
-of white shells, seemingly clams, but in reality merely their shells
-held closely together by mud and sand, the skeletons of former bivalves
-whose souls have fled to other worlds and whose bodies have long since
-disappeared the way of all flesh. And so he seeks another spot, and the
-same process is repeated. Each time he is conscious of an increasing
-stiffening of the back, recalling former twinges of lumbago, and after
-an hour or so the tide forces him to retreat, and he returns dejectedly
-to partake of a thin clam-broth, upon the top of which, as a consolation
-prize, his wife has tactfully placed a little whipped cream.
-
-And yet the clam is ubiquitous, once you know him, and the clammer,
-himself, has been immortalized by Mr. William J. Hopkins in several
-delightful stories with which certain readers are familiar. The
-enthusiast soon learns their favorite haunts and on favorable tides he
-gathers these bivalves by the pailful. For chowders and for bait alike he
-digs, constructs a wire cage in which to keep his precious clams from
-day to day, and week to week, and thus they become, as it were, almost a
-part of his summer _entourage_.
-
-The clam is a numerous family (_Mya arenaria_, were one to become
-scientific). The ordinary mud clam which inhabits the tidewater harbors
-of our coasts; the quahog, whose young, termed “little necks,” are
-served, uncooked, as appetizers; and the sea clam, are very familiar in
-appearance and habits; but all varieties are secured in different ways
-and in varying localities, and therein lies an added charm to the pastime
-of clam-digging.
-
-There is a certain portion of the coast line in a very attractive
-section of Cape Cod, which shall be nameless, where all varieties of
-these mollusks abound, and it is difficult at times to decide which
-variety to pursue. The ordinary mud clam is generally sought on the
-especially low tides so kindly afforded by the moon at stated intervals.
-It is then that the tide line resembles miniature trenches—first-line
-defenses, if you will—so many and so persistent are the pursuers,
-who look for all the world as if they were digging themselves in in
-anticipation of a machine-gun attack.
-
-The quahog is more secure, for he lives in No Man’s Land, beyond the
-trenches and just under the surface of the mud. If one is walking up a
-salty, muddy creek—and surprising as the fact may seem, one often does
-follow this watery by-path—the foot will continue to disclose these big
-fellows. In the course of an hour of this method of locomotion, a full
-pail of quahogs may be secured without further discomfort than a pair
-of wet legs and two very muddy feet. The fishermen, however, regard
-such efforts as time lost. They manipulate two long-handled rakes bound
-together at the bottom, and with this implement a sort of hand-dredging
-process is performed which apparently yields better results. But it is
-only the native fisherman, with his knowledge of tides and currents, of
-sandy or muddy bottoms, of channels and shoals, who can successfully
-locate the choice spots where these quahogs lie hidden beneath water,
-seaweed, and mud.
-
-The sea clam is as immaculately clean as his harbor cousin is muddy.
-He is likewise found just beneath the surface of the water, buried in
-firm white sand over which the white-crested breakers foam on the beach.
-These clams are not greatly valued as food. They are gamy and tough in
-comparison to their brethren and a sharp contrast in appearance, with
-their delicate, smooth shell of an exquisite _café au lait_ color, and it
-is for this reason, perhaps, that only the most enthusiastic of clammers
-or fishermen after bait know of their whereabouts.
-
-Along the beaches where thousands of Americans may be seen in
-impressionistic attire, disporting themselves by bobbing up and down
-in the waves, one could easily secure a pailful of these fascinating
-creatures by wading out and groping in the sands. No more exhilarating
-pleasure can be secured from surf bathing than in this pastime, which
-calls for agility in dodging the breakers as they roll in. While you are
-in the act of dislodging a fine fat specimen, your pail grasped in one
-hand, the other embedded in the sand seeking your prey, your body is
-swept first in, then out, by the waves. In order to regain your balance
-you lose your hold, just escape being toppled over by the next wave
-rushing toward its finish on the sands, and miss the clam; and so the
-process begins all over again.
-
-The “little necks” have their own places of abode close to the surface of
-the mud in sequestered inlets. Now and again the plebeian clammer will
-come across a stray family of little fellows while in quest of the common
-variety, but as a pastime digging for “little necks” has but little zest.
-
-And now, after realizing the fascination of clamming, why be surprised
-if, when you run down to the Cape for a week-end, your host grips you
-with a hand, cold and moist from submersion—a “clammy hand”; and why be
-surprised if on the following day, instead of the routine of golf and
-tennis, you are initiated into this simple sport? The surprise would come
-to the writer of this slight dissertation if he should find you callous
-to the delight of clamming or disrespectful of the occupation of the
-clammer.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-IV
-
-A BY-PRODUCT OF CONSERVATION
-
-
-The torrent of conservation surged over our community in war-time with
-a mighty roar, carrying with it all thought of flowers and lawns, and
-making chaos of our cherished plans for a summer garden. With a velocity
-which only social enterprise could initiate, New England became a market
-garden from Eastport to Greenwich. Conservation developed back yards
-and vacant lots into gardens, and bank clerks into farmers, enthusiastic
-at the prospect, and innocent of the coming torments which weeds and
-pests would soon bring with them. And so, for this same reason, our
-flower garden on the Cape simmered down to a few nasturtiums and whatever
-blossoms of a perennial nature cared to show themselves, while our spring
-borders, usually a riot of color, were given over to vegetables.
-
-What, then, should we have in our vases to reflect the profusion of the
-outdoor season? For a room without flowers in summer is as devoid of
-character and charm as a man without a necktie. The solution, naturally,
-was soon found by many in the wild flowers, and if conservation has
-accomplished nothing else, its gift to us of an appreciation of the
-beauty and variety of these exquisite plants will more than repay our
-efforts to grow potatoes, beans, and corn at exorbitant prices with
-doubtful success.
-
-The last days of school for the children and certain affairs at the
-office, together with fixed habits which tyrannize over the household,
-kept us from leaving for the Cape until late in June, so that we missed
-the mayflowers which have made Cape Cod famous for generations. The iris
-and violets, too, had disappeared, as well as the dogwood with its
-delicate and generous pink-and-white petals. A few short hours after our
-arrival, my little daughter discovered near by some exquisite specimens
-of the wild lupine growing just as I had last seen it upon the slopes
-of Mount Tamalpais near San Francisco, although perhaps not in the same
-profusion.
-
-From that first day until well into September, our living-room was made
-joyous by a succession of flowers as delicate and graceful as ever came
-from the highly cultivated gardens of the idle rich—a term which will
-soon vanish and justly so.
-
-The wild roses were late and never more plentiful or more perfect. The
-daisies, arranged amid clusters of shiny bayberry and huckleberry leaves,
-were transformed into stately decorations. The broom, as it is often
-called, which abounds in certain sections of the Cape, planted there
-in past years without doubt, gave one a sense of having been ferried
-across the sea overnight, while our own columbine and wild geranium made
-a pleasing variety, especially when arranged with the soft green of the
-wild sarsaparilla.
-
-With the coming of July, the _Hudsonia_, or beach heather, clothed our
-foreground with brilliant yellow spots, touches of the sun here and
-there, while the low wild shrubs and grasses seemed to grow overnight
-in their desire to hide our view of the water. After a week of rain
-in which we were confined to the flowers about the house—succulent
-clover, Queen Anne’s lace, and a wide variety of tall grasses, which,
-mingled with pine branches, form admirable wall decoration—our desire
-for botanical information led us to scour the near-by country, not with
-guide-book, motor-maps, or even a copy of “How to Know the Wild Flowers,”
-but to journey simply forth, either on foot or tucked tightly into
-our Ford car. To come unexpectedly upon one of the many ponds dotted
-with lilies and fringed with a variety of flowering shrubs caused as
-delightful a sensation as the same sight a few years ago would have
-aroused, only then it would have stimulated a very different desire—the
-thought of a possible bass, lazily drifting below the surface, to be
-tempted, perhaps, by a fly, would have been uppermost. But this summer
-our sport lay in securing wild flowers, a harmless and charming pastime
-in which for the first time all the members of the family found equal
-enjoyment, and even our near neighbors, confirmed golfers, admitted the
-fascination of our newly acquired sport. To return laden with lilies,
-wild clematis, marsh mallows, delicately pink upon their tall, stately
-stems, cat-tails, red lilies, the fragrant clethra, and a variety of
-other flowers whose names are to be discovered in the winter over a
-“complete botanical guide,” savored of a veritable triumph.
-
-Our growing interest in this wild garden was amply rewarded, for now in
-August the flowers were at their height and it became doubly interesting.
-Whether the discovery of new varieties or the satisfaction of gathering
-and arranging the commonest weeds brought the greater pleasure, it is
-hard to judge. The recollection of a tall, graceful copper vase filled
-with the despised chicory and bouncing Bet, the blue of the one and the
-delicate, pinkish purple of the other blending charmingly and supported
-in contrast by a few sprays of sumac leaves, lingers as one of the
-floral discoveries of the summer. A mass of fireweed, interspersed with
-slender sprays of salt grass in full bloom, is another.
-
-And yet to the sportsman or the embryonic scientist, individuals of very
-similar characteristics, an excursion into the back country through the
-woods, a good, long, honest tramp in pursuit of new floral game, and the
-finding, now a clump of cardinal-flowers and again the deadly nightshade
-(for the sportsman and scientist alike are fearless), is keen pleasure.
-
-At times we would return with little booty to show for our trouble, a
-gathering of St. John’s-wort, perhaps, or a few stalks of mallow or
-one-eyed daisies, but never empty-handed and always with the exhilaration
-of the thought that here was a garden without limit, without weeds, and
-without the cares and expenses to which we were accustomed.
-
-In arrangement, it must be confessed that discussion often arose. Certain
-members of the family, who shall be nameless, preferred a few blooms
-alone in each vase, while others clamored loudly for garnishings of salt
-grasses and other green decorations. Upon such flowers as butterfly-weed
-and tansy, such discussions nearly ended in riots, and only a tactful
-distribution of these blooms to those who had gathered them with full
-authority as to arrangement secured peace.
-
-The goldenrod made its appearance earlier than usual, the handsome,
-sturdy variety which grows close to the tidewater being especially fine.
-With it came the purple and white wild asters, which are in reality so
-much more beautiful than the cultivated kind, and the sea lavender vying
-with baby’s-breath in its delicacy.
-
-In this September a pleasant surprise came in the discovery of a flower
-which we called—and possibly incorrectly so—the wild primrose, growing
-close to the coast among the pines and scrub oaks; and blooming at this
-same time was the beach pea, a long, climbing vine of a pinkish-violet
-color, luxuriating amid the desolation of the sand-dunes.
-
-Close upon the heels of these blossoms, which both seemed to belong to
-the springtime, the turning of the leaves, the crispness of the air,
-the short evenings, and the aforesaid three governing reasons, school,
-office, and domestic domination, decided us with more reluctance than
-ever to close the cottage. It was not until our luggage was packed and
-ready that our final gatherings of the season’s wild flowers were removed
-and the vases put away against the coming of next spring.
-
-It still remains to be seen whether conservation will ultimately lead to
-a saving in the cost of food (for Americans are more given to preaching
-than to practice) but it has served us well in our appreciation of
-certain of the good things in life.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-V
-
-MOTOR TYRANNICUS
-
-
-In the dim days of a decade ago—a generation might well have passed,
-for time is measured by the march of events rather than the procession
-of years—I remember yearning for the possession of an automobile. It
-mattered not what make, or shape or size or year. I was oblivious to the
-merits of six cylinders as opposed to four. I laughed at the enthusiast
-who reckoned upon the length of wheel-base as deciding his comfort or
-the question of demountable rims as governing his decision as to which
-make to select. All I coveted was something on wheels (preferably four)
-of my own which might go or even might not go, for so rampant was the
-possessive desire in my heart that the chief thing in the world seemed
-to me at that time to be able to say “My motor” in an utterly casual,
-matter-of-fact tone, and back it up by nodding my head in the direction
-of the barn, which after the fashion of marriages had suddenly changed
-its name overnight by the possession of a master, and so became my
-“garage.”
-
-This ridiculous state of mind is easy to account for. In winter we lived
-in the suburbs where it seemed to both my wife and to me that every
-friend we had owned a car. In summer we sojourned upon Cape Cod, where
-the motor had replaced the runabout so completely that our old horse
-looked like a prehistoric relic of the Stone Age. Added to this was the
-ignominy of knowing that the Butcher and Baker both possessed machines
-and had that mythological person the Candlestick-maker abided in our
-town, doubtless he also would have honk-honked his way by our door.
-
-In short, the thing got so badly on our nerves that finally, with full
-knowledge of the financial iniquity involved, I purchased one of those
-hopelessly plebeian affairs which travel under so many opprobrious
-pseudonyms—a Ford. From that day to this I have owned some sort of a car
-and have thought myself a wise and a fortunate man, and subconsciously I
-have felt myself rather more of a person because of this possession, for
-such is the frailty of human nature.
-
-To-day, however, marks a turning-point, a milestone, a crisis in my
-career. Personally I consider this day one of triumph—I have sold my car.
-I have no independent means of transportation other than my own good
-legs—or, at least, they were so until I neglected them—and I rejoice in
-my motorless state. I feel a sense of exhilaration in my freedom from
-Fords, from the bondage of Buicks, from captivity in my Chandler Sedan.
-Such exhilaration is doubtless hard to understand because precisely the
-same conditions now exist which originally drove me into buying that
-first “Universal Car,” only in a more exaggerated degree. My children
-(and now there are more of them) are always clamoring for rides, even for
-the short distance of a few blocks which separates our house from school.
-My wife (and I must confess there is now more of her too) still plies her
-trade of exchanging visits and buzzing about town all day long, never
-thinking of walking, and for myself, I have become mutely accustomed
-to the rôle of family chauffeur when not attempting that increasing
-impossibility, the attempt to make both ends meet.
-
-And yet, is it after all so hard to understand this relief? In the first
-place, the car, no matter what variety, either goes or it does not go.
-If by chance it goes, you must go with it. If it does not go, you must
-make it go or get some one who knows more about it than you do, and who
-costs more than you do, to mend it. That means that you go upstairs into
-your own room and change into old clothes reserved for this purpose, go
-down again and out to the garage, where you stand in contemplative mood
-for some moments before crawling under the machine. When you are safely
-landed in a dripping pool of oil, your children and your neighbor’s
-children come trooping in from play and ask you why you are there and
-what you are doing. This in itself is disconcerting, for you generally
-don’t know. Having successfully found that out you slowly emerge from
-your cramped quarters, which compare only with an upper berth, return to
-your room, resume the garb of a successful business man, and take the car
-to a garage and there wait until some one makes it _sound_ all right.
-This individual vies with the tax collector in separating you from all
-excess cash.
-
-This does not happen every day, I admit, but there is a sensation in the
-back of the mind of nearly every motorist which is more or less constant.
-You know that you worry when the car does not go. There is no ground for
-speculation upon this point. You worry about what the matter is, and when
-you find you can’t mend it, and take it to a garage to be repaired, you
-worry as to whether you have taken it to the right garage, or the right
-man in the garage. You fuss over the cost and you continually wonder
-whether the repairs have been properly done or whether the blamed thing
-won’t break out in the same place the next time you take the car out. And
-during this whole period you feel in the bottom of your heart that you
-could have mended it just as well yourself.
-
-Then there are the worries when it _does_ go. You wonder when the tires
-are going to give out, whether they are too flat or too inflated,
-whether you put in gas before you started, and how the water is. You are
-continually guessing whether you have too much or too little oil, and you
-generally guess wrong.
-
-These, however, are all mere trifles, the superficial maunderings of a
-sensitive organism. Your major worries may be classified under three
-headings:
-
-First: the worry of changing cars. Every year the question comes up for
-family discussion, competing valiantly with the problem of when we are
-to move to the Cape. Shall we turn in the old car and get a new one? If
-so, what kind?—and then follows a month of violent discussion in which
-my wife and the children take one side and I the other. By instinct I am
-a modest man and by habit cautious. I do not like changes, especially
-sudden changes, and so my inclination is either to stick to the old
-car for another year or buy a new one like it. My family—why I cannot
-say—seem to be oppositely inclined. My wife avers that So-and-So has had
-great luck with a ⸺. Billy, my eldest, backs her up with several lengthy
-anecdotes told him by So-and-So’s son, proving the excellence of that
-make above all others. I am sufficiently shaken in my opinion to consult
-with the garage-man from whom I bought my car, only to be shown a car of
-the variety mentioned in deplorable condition awaiting the mechanic’s
-skill. Poor engine, inadequate something or other,—I can’t remember the
-name,—and so it goes. My office is thronged with automobile salesmen so
-that work is impossible, while the evenings are passed in futile argument
-until the final verdict is given, resulting generally in a compromise—a
-new car is purchased of a trifle better type at a considerable advance
-in price and the old car sacrificed for a song. Those days of budding
-greenness for which we have longed through all the cold, useless days of
-winter are utterly ruined by this fearful problem.
-
-The second worry comes with breakfast daily. Who is to use the car during
-the day? The day being balmy, I had thought of going to town in it,
-especially as I wanted to make a call on the way home. My wife, it seems,
-had planned to go to the dressmaker. I should have guessed it. Billy,
-who has just arrived at the legal age which foolishly permits youth to
-endanger the lives and liberty of American citizens, had planned to take
-a number of his cronies to St. Mark’s School to see a ball game. Billy,
-as can be readily imagined, wins out.
-
-This daily observance takes the entire breakfast period and often leads
-to slight feeling. I say slight because I rarely ever secure the car
-myself unless it needs repairing.
-
-The last worry may perhaps be more likened to fear. “What next?” I
-generally remark—for this third division concerns our friends. In
-that happy decade, now but a dream, we used to live in a delightful
-community, surrounded by friends who dropped in and then dropped out
-again, both happy incidents in our daily life. But now, who has time to
-see his neighbors when every one is frantically motoring to some distant
-acquaintance miles away? What can you do when some friend at the end of
-nowhere invites you to dinner because she knows you have a motor? You go
-because your wife explains that this sort of thing is what a motor is for.
-
-Is this not a matter for worry?—to work in an office until five; to
-journey home with the knowledge that in exactly thirty minutes you start
-out, in a car which needs oiling and when one of the tires should have
-more air, for a distant suburb, where you are to meet a number of people
-you do not know and never care to see again. That this sort of thing is
-going to increase just as long as you have a pesky car is more than a
-cause for worry. It is a calamity.
-
-In a trice all this vanished, for I sold my car. I remember hearing the
-story of a Southerner whose property was taken from him during the Civil
-War and who later was robbed of all the money on his person. He confessed
-to a feeling of intense joy and relief, for with his loss of property
-went his feeling of responsibility, and care-free he entered the army and
-fought a gallant fight.
-
-And so upon that day I walked with elastic tread, head up, chest out,
-delighting in the discovery of freedom. I care not that my friends
-all possess cars. I’ve had one—several in fact—and I can afford to buy
-others, but I am not going to. That is, not yet (and here I remember
-my family, somewhat dubiously). I plan to renew the pleasures of daily
-rambles over the beautiful hills of my own town. I plan to renew old
-friendships with my neighbors near by. I look forward to an occasional
-Sunday at home. In short, I picture the joy of being without a motor.
-
-As a matter of fact, however, this vision was short-lived. In the first
-place, the ramble over the old familiar hills made me so beastly lame
-that my Sunday at home was a painful one, and the day was punctuated
-by the complaints of each and every member of the family over the loss
-of the car. I ventured out, still painfully, to call upon one or two of
-my old neighbors, just for a run in and out again, but they, it seemed,
-were out in their motors, and so I returned dejectedly to the sad-faced
-group in my own living-room, where we managed to exist until bedtime,
-conversing upon our prospective move to the Cape, and what it meant to
-the various members of the family to be—as my daughter puts it—a million
-miles away from every one with no means of ever leaving the house. And
-so it was the Cape and its appeal which broke my defenses, for I must
-confess our seasonal trips there were a delightful part of our existence,
-to say nothing of the joys of our summer life.
-
-The next day I took an early train to town, and I came home that evening
-somewhat sheepish, but reasonably happy, for I came in a new car, which
-bids fair to be the best one yet; it is certainly the most expensive.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-VI
-
-“CHANGE AND REST”—SUMMER BARGAINING
-
-
-Although on the surface Cape Cod seems to offer a haven of refuge to that
-much overworked appendage to the modern man, the pocket-book, there are
-dotted here and there upon the highways and byways many comparatively
-innocent pitfalls.
-
-To a close student of these danger spots, they may be grouped under the
-heading “Tea-Rooms, Arts and Crafts Stores, and Antique Shops.”
-
-I know of no greater relief than to escape from town and come to the
-Cape. Once there, the daily routine of office, the absence of any
-assigned duty, the leisure hours passed in or on the water or idly
-knocking about the golf links, tend to merge one day into another, so
-that time flashes past at an alarming rate. But every now and again comes
-a day when some member of the family suggests that we take the motor and
-extend our vision. It is upon such occasions that we test the financial
-astuteness of the aborigines.
-
-One never visits the Cape without discovering how effectively the climate
-stimulates the appetite. What wonder, therefore, that every village and
-hamlet possesses a Tea-Room of varying attraction?
-
-The stop is made and the Tea-Room visited, only to find that the family,
-in addition to ordering the tea, with its accompaniment of toast and
-cake, or, for the younger members, a bottle of ginger ale or an ice-cream
-cone, are bent upon securing a souvenir. The Tea-Room is generally
-furnished with an assortment of articles intended for just such gullibles
-as ourselves. There are, for instance, baskets of assorted sizes and
-colors, for flowers, or fruit, or sewing, or pine cones; in fact for
-everything that should be thrown away, but isn’t. We have several such
-baskets at home, but that does not prevent some member of the family
-from buying another. It will do for a Christmas present. Then there
-are varieties of other things made far away and designed to lure the
-cheerful motorist, such as charmingly decorated match-cases for elderly
-people, noisily painted tin pails for the children, dainty knockers, and
-all manner of knick-knacks for the women of the party. The invariable
-assortment of what, to a man, seems the essence of uselessness, and yet,
-I confess it, attractive to an insidious extent.
-
-The pocket-book is touched, not severely, to be sure, but there is a
-perceptible shrinkage as we file out to continue on our harmless junket.
-
-For a few miles we bowl along over a delightfully smooth road and give
-ourselves over entirely to the view. Now a long stretch of pine woods
-gives just a glimpse of the water glistening through the trees; here and
-there a little farmhouse, snugly tucked among a clump of lilacs close
-to the road, with visions of larger establishments in the distance,
-out toward the sea, the homes of summer residents boldly exposed to
-the refreshing southwest wind; then a long stretch of marsh and dune
-brilliant in the sun. Suddenly we come upon a more thickly populated
-district where many of the old houses have been purchased and renovated
-to fit the needs of city people, who, with the assistance of some modern
-architect, oftentimes make enticing homes of these structures by the
-simple addition of porches and piazzas, with bright touches of paint here
-and there on blinds and doors, and the whole garnished well with bright
-flowers, climbing roses, and cozy hedges.
-
-It is generally near such a settlement that we come upon the Arts and
-Crafts in all their glory.
-
-Compared to the Tea-Room, the Art-Shop is a veritable mine of treasure.
-From a variety of toys which would do credit to Schwartz to a complete
-set of hand-painted furniture such as one might expect to find in the
-window of the largest furniture store in Boston during the months of May
-and June, seems a far cry for a small shop occupying a converted bungalow
-in a modest Cape town; but this sort of thing exists, and between these
-items there is an almost endless list of what for a better term may be
-called “specialties,” and even I, who scorn the newness of furnishings
-as they are displayed in town, fall a victim first to an exceptionally
-soft-toned rag rug, oval in shape and comfortable to the tread, and also
-to a set of doilies made of a light, colorful variety of oilcloth with
-dainty pattern that my wife says will save washing; and lastly to a pair
-of bayberry candles, olive green and a full eighteen inches high, which
-it seems to me will give an admirable touch to our living-room mantel.
-
-The shrinkage in the pocket-book is easily discernible; in fact I am led
-to say briskly that I think we had better be getting along home, and so
-we put our new treasures into the car and proceed homewards by a new
-route more inland.
-
-It is always interesting to try the lesser known roads even if they are
-a bit rougher. They are little traveled and for this reason pleasanter
-in midsummer; one rarely loses the way, for signs are plentiful, and so
-we wind about the higher stretches which form the backbone of the Cape,
-along sandy roads which at times diminish to mere cart-paths, but at all
-times are passable.
-
-Emerging from this forest district on one such excursion, we came quite
-suddenly upon the forking of two roads where a clump of neat-looking
-farmhouses, a schoolhouse, and a diminutive church indicated a real town.
-Here my eye was arrested by the magic sign “Antiques” stuck into the lawn
-in front of one of the houses.
-
-While I do not admit the slightest lure in the sign of a Tea-Room except
-when hard-pressed by hunger, and but scant attraction in the Art-Shop,
-there is something about the word “antique” that whets my appetite
-for exploration, and especially so when found in a quiet little hamlet
-off the beaten path and probably not familiar to the many hundreds of
-tourists whose smoothly running motors of ample proportions bespeak
-well-filled pocket-books. Consequently I grasped the emergency brake and
-came to a sudden stop in spite of a feeble protest from my daughter and a
-heavy sigh from my wife on the back seat.
-
-Where antiques are concerned, I take the lead, or, to be more accurate,
-I stand alone, and so proceeded to the back door of the house; for those
-who know Cape-Codders well enough realize the inconvenience and delay
-which a knock at the front door provokes.
-
-Seeing a middle-aged woman bending over the stove in the kitchen, I
-called a merry “Good-afternoon” by way of salutation.
-
-“Good-afternoon,” she replied as an echo might have thrown back my words.
-
-“I saw your sign ‘antiques’ and thought perhaps I might have a look at
-them,” I continued, nothing daunted.
-
-“Mister Eldridge ain’t to home, but if you want to go out to the barn you
-can see what he’s got,” she replied, without even turning her head to see
-what sort of a second-story man I might be.
-
-Here was luck, however, for I could look over the stock in trade of this
-ambitious couple to my heart’s content, and I made haste to the barn,
-which I found converted into one of the most amazing junk-shops it has
-ever been my pleasure to explore.
-
-Crowded together without rhyme or reason, and with no thought of display,
-were the goods and chattels of generations of Cape-Codders; tables,
-chairs, beds, sofas, ice-chests, a parlor organ, curtain rods, bits of
-carpet, crockery in all stages of dilapidation. On one of the tables a
-variety of hardware was strewn about, on one of the stiff-backed chairs
-reposed three old brass lanterns. A Rogers group on a kitchen table
-was flanked by a White Mountain ice-cream freezer on one side and a
-fine old fire bucket on the other. A four-poster, of apple-wood, with
-fluted posts terminating in pineapple tops, the wood in an excellent
-state of preservation, was the repository of a half-dozen pictures,
-three face-down, while one of the others disclosed itself as a really
-good copy of the engraving of Washington and his family. But to the
-casual observer, there seemed scarcely a piece of furniture or, in fact,
-anything which was sufficiently in repair to survive the journey to my
-house; furthermore, the rank and file of articles were of recent date and
-had no charm for the collector.
-
-However, the very hopelessness of the quest whetted my appetite, and to
-the utter disgust of my family, I spent a good half-hour rummaging about,
-not only in the main part of the barn, but also in the stalls, and even
-in the hayloft, for the whole building was bulging with what seemed the
-cast-off furnishings of the entire Cape.
-
-The result of my examination was a really fine ship’s lantern which I
-found in the loft; a pair of old pewter pepper pots, reclining in an old
-soap dish, and a couple of straight-back rush-seated chairs, a trifle
-rickety, but with the seats in excellent condition with the original rush
-plaiting, which is unmistakable.
-
-For fear of mislaying my selection, I had brought them outside the barn,
-and at that moment a lanky, middle-aged farmer drove up in a buggy and
-slowly got out.
-
-“Is this Mr. Eldridge?” I asked.
-
-“Thet’s me,” he replied. “Been havin’ a look over the department store?
-I ain’t got in my elevators, an’ the outing department [here he looked
-at my golfing tweeds] ain’t much to brag about, but I’ve got ’most
-everything in thar except the town hearse an’ I’m savin’ that for my
-mother-in-law.”
-
-By George! I thought, here’s one of the real old-timers, nothing taciturn
-about him, and I pointed to the modest selection I had made and asked
-him what the price was.
-
-“Well, as to price,” he replied, taking off his hat and meditatively
-scratching his head, “that’s the worst of the business. I never just know
-what my things are worth. Them chairs came from old widow Crocker’s, over
-by Forestdale. She’d never sell ’em till she died, an’ then she couldn’t
-help herself an’ her son-in-law cleaned the place out, an’ I got quite
-a lot of stuff an’ paid him for the lot. What d’you say to a couple o’
-dollars apiece?”
-
-I said, “Yes,” as soberly as I could. I would have given much more.
-
-“As to that lantern, it’s a good ’un and the glass is all right. I shall
-have to get at least four dollars.”
-
-“All right,” said I, cheerfully, for I had seen a smaller one in Chatham
-go for eight just a few days before. “And how about the pepper pots?”
-
-“Oh, you kin have ’em for—let’s see—’bout seventy-five apiece.” And I
-agreed.
-
-“What do you do with all this stuff?” I asked, as he helped me to dispose
-of my treasures in an already well-filled car.
-
-“Oh, mostly I sell to the Portugees that come here farmin’ and
-cranberryin’. Now an’ then I get some old stuff same as you jest picked
-up, but generally it’s the newer kind they like the best. I jest set
-that there sign up ’cause I see every durn fellow ’long the road what
-has a toothpick or a shavin’ mug to sell puts up a sign, an’ so, says I,
-guess I’ll stick up one too.”
-
-And that is the way I became acquainted with Silas Eldridge, dealer
-in antiques, who has sold me many a real treasure, but I keep his
-whereabouts as secret as possible, for of all the fascinating places for
-picking up astonishing bargains on Cape Cod, his old dilapidated barn
-offers the most surprises.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-VII
-
-A BLUE STREAK
-
-
-Slang is both the curse and the delight of the English language, and that
-form of slang which our British friends term “Americanisms,” and which we
-have now largely adopted as our national mode of communication, is not
-confined to the youth of to-day by any means. In the home, in business,
-and of course in sport, slang has found its way and has spread like the
-weeds in the garden of the over-enthusiastic commuter. I remember hearing
-a clergyman of national reputation and advancing years say a short time
-ago, after a satisfying excursion of some sort, that he had “had more fun
-than a goat,” and I defied him to elucidate that time-worn phrase to my
-satisfaction.
-
-The derivations and origins of American idioms and colloquial expressions
-are vastly interesting, not only in showing the resourcefulness of our
-people in cutting wordy corners and in the development of a certain
-form of humor which I do not defend, but in shedding real light upon
-the whys and wherefores of our universe down to its smallest detail. A
-temperamental curiosity has led me from time to time to look up certain
-of the commoner expressions, and I am indebted to this eccentric hobby
-for several pleasurable experiences.
-
-Many years ago—so many in fact that the memory is distasteful—I went to a
-horse-race where the winner passed our stand at a pace which my companion
-described as “going like a blue streak,” a familiar term with which I
-ignorantly agreed at the time. I suppose that since then I have heard it
-repeated many hundred times, but it was not until last summer when my son
-applied it to a motor-boat passing out of the harbor, that I thought of
-inquiring into its origin, and discovered, much to my surprise, that it
-applied to the illusive and disconcerting movements of the ordinary sea
-crab, often called the “blue claw.”
-
-The discovery piqued my curiosity and I determined forthwith to
-investigate the locomotory accomplishments of these retiring animals.
-This was not as easy a task as I had expected. The crab is not socially
-inclined, and the term “crabbed” is soon apparent. He is only to be found
-at low tide, and generally near the mouth of a salty creek where the
-bottom is muddy and sparsely covered with seaweed and eelgrass. There in
-the late summer and fall he can be seen from canoe or rowboat, if one is
-patient and watchful, and the expression to “go like a blue streak” fits
-him like a glove.
-
-Having provided myself with a net of the butterfly variety, I determined
-to secure a specimen, and began my search among the creeks, so numerous
-along the shores of Cape Cod. Although we came upon quite a number, it
-took the entire morning to capture four.
-
-When unmolested, these creatures crawl slowly and deliberately about
-their business, sluggish in manner and shabbily dark in appearance,
-grubbing about on the bottom, now in, now out of the seaweed, but the
-instant that danger is threatened, they undergo a transformation. The
-claws, from sprawling about on the mud at every angle, are drawn in, and
-like a flash—or, far better, “like a blue streak”—the particular crab
-that you have selected for capture darts away at an angle that leaves
-you helpless with wonder at the suddenness of his departure and at the
-blueness of his appearance.
-
-As soon as you have spotted your prey the excitement begins. Armed with
-the net, you crawl quietly to the bow of the boat and in whispers direct
-the rower, now this way, now that, following the route taken by the
-capricious crab. Sometimes the water is deep enough to permit the use
-of the oars, at others it is necessary to pole the boat in and out among
-the rocks covered by seaweed, your journey always attended by silence and
-stealth as if the slightest noise would precipitate in flight this wily
-crustacean.
-
-At last when you are within striking distance, the net is plunged in
-among the grass and brought up, alas! empty, and the hunt continues as
-before.
-
-When, after repeated trials, your patience is rewarded and a fine big
-fellow is caught, the greatest care must be taken to prevent him from
-crawling out of the net and escaping before he is landed in the boat,
-for his activities are ceaseless.
-
-Indeed, even after he is flung deftly into the pail, his savage struggles
-may succeed in freeing him from captivity. And so it is only with
-infinite caution and patience—qualifications necessary in every game—that
-you are able to land your prize, and it is only then that you will find
-the explanation of the color quality of his passing. As the crab is taken
-from the water, its mud-colored shell appears a dark ultramarine blue,
-the claws of a lighter shade, the under part shading to white tinged with
-pink; its entire surface seems metallic in the intensity of its coloring
-as it leaves the water. From a slow, lazy animal of peaceful habits, the
-crab has become a veritable monster, savage and fiercely aggressive, and
-woe to the unfortunate within reach of his claws.
-
-His capture is a real experience and a distinctly sporting event. So
-interesting and mysterious is the search, so active and adventurous
-the pursuit, and so exciting and satisfying the actual catch, that one
-is tempted to place crabbing among the big events of a summer at the
-seashore.
-
-I know a college professor who annually devotes the better part of his
-vacation to this pastime, and several of my athletic friends, whose
-prowess on the football field was a matter of international comment
-in the papers, confess to the delights of a crab hunt; but it is a
-surprising fact, nevertheless, that the majority of those who visit the
-seacoast each year have never even heard of the extraordinary fascination
-of hunting the originator of the “blue streak.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-VIII
-
-A FRESH-WATER CAPE
-
-
-To the majority of people Cape Cod spells sea breezes, a tang of salt in
-the air, scrub oaks, tall pines, stretches of sand, and a large appetite.
-To the few who know the Cape from more intimate acquaintance there is
-added to this picture a swelling country densely wooded in sections and
-spotted with ponds. It is a source of never-ending wonder how these
-ponds exist in a country where the soil is so porous that a few minutes
-after a shower there is no trace of the rain. In almost every instance
-they are fed from springs beneath the surface, and the solution has been
-offered and quite generally believed that much of this fresh water flows
-in subterranean channels having their source far distant in the White
-Mountains.
-
-So plentiful is the supply that wells and pipes, driven a few feet into
-the soil at almost any spot, furnish clear, pure water in ample supply
-for household needs. A more remarkable fact is that at low tide in many
-of the harbors and inlets fresh water can be found between the high and
-low stretches, oozing through the salty surface of sand and mud. And so
-the Cape, for all its salt qualities, has fresh water in profusion and
-ponds without number. In Plymouth County alone there are 365 ponds, many
-of them of substantial size, while the lower Cape is almost equally well
-provided.
-
-A generation ago, many of the residents of Plymouth passed their summers
-on the largest of these—Long Pond. Having the salt breezes most of the
-year they wisely sought a change to inland waters.
-
-Last year I met a gentleman fishing in Wakeby Pond—made famous by
-Cleveland and Joe Jefferson—who told me he came on from Chicago every
-year to pass a month bass fishing. He was probably ten miles from the
-coast, and might have been a hundred for all the good it did him; but on
-the other hand, why not a pond on the Cape as well as a Rangeley Lake
-in Maine? The life is much the same—the air refreshing and the scenery
-delightful.
-
-These larger ponds are fully as large as many of the Maine lakes. Long
-Pond at Plymouth is said to be ten miles long, and I have seen the water
-at Great Herring Pond as rough as one would care to have it when canoeing.
-
-To be sure the fishing is not perhaps so very exciting—few trout, except
-in the occasional streams which have been stocked, but land-locked
-salmon, perch, and pickerel to be had with a little patience, and a
-shrimp or so. The real pleasure which these ponds offer is the surprise
-and delight of coming upon them as one does frequently and quickly while
-motoring through the less-frequented roads. From Plymouth down the Cape
-through Sandwich nearly every road and by-path leads to some picturesque
-little sheet of water often closely wooded to its shores and without a
-sign of habitation.
-
-From Wareham or Cotuit, from Pocasset or Falmouth, from Hyannis or
-Chatham—in short, from nearly every one of the many Cape towns, a ride
-of fifteen or twenty minutes will take one to a pond which might as well
-be fifty miles from any center of human activity. One rarely meets other
-adventurers upon such trips, and the silence and peace which reign form
-excellent foils to the summer life so near at hand.
-
-Those who are wise in Cape ways possess small canoes mounted upon two
-wheels, which are fastened on behind their cars, so that, when touring
-the ponds, they are not limited in their fishing to the shore or to the
-chance of finding a boat.
-
-There are a number of gentlemen who have built small camps upon certain
-of these secluded spots for casual excursions and for spring and fall
-use. They are wise. By leaving Boston at noon they can always be in camp
-by sundown ready to enjoy a full Sunday, while the mighty fisherman who
-depends entirely upon the Maine lakes or the more remote places must plan
-a week’s vacation, with the chance of better sport, to be sure, but no
-better life, for the life of a sportsman in the open is much the same.
-The great outdoors is universal in its appeal to the sane-minded and
-healthy-bodied.
-
-I have experienced as much heat and poorer fishing in Nova Scotia during
-July as I have on our ponds of the Cape, and in addition I have noticed
-more mosquitoes and midges to the cubic inch in Canada than on these same
-ponds; but of that perhaps the less said the better.
-
-I have in mind a little excursion which illustrates these extremes of
-Cape life, and it is but one of many. In early July, when the children,
-freed from school restraint, were on the rampage, and our cottage was
-bearing the brunt of an onslaught of youthful visitors, each of our
-neighbors having one or two boys and girls as guests for their children,
-life seemed to me an unending series of activities coupled with ceaseless
-slang. In fact, I was “fed up” with it all, so that when my classmate
-and old friend R⸺ telephoned to say that he was going up to the pond for
-a day or so, I clung to the receiver in my joy to escape.
-
-The preparations for such a trip are simple—a blanket, a change of
-clothing, a toothbrush, no razor, food enough to fill a small basket,
-and—yes, I suppose it must be confessed—a bottle.
-
-My fishing tackle is always ready. The bait, however, is more difficult
-to secure. With net and pail I hastened to the creek which enters the
-harbor near our cottage, and, it being fortunately low tide, I was able,
-in the twenty minutes left before R⸺’s arrival, to secure a fair supply
-of shrimp. That was all there was to it. We were off well within an hour
-from the time of his message, and well within another hour we had arrived
-at his little shack perched high above the shore of one of the loveliest
-ponds on the Cape, and were settled for the night.
-
-The camp was well stocked with wood and simply furnished with camp beds,
-the ordinary cooking-utensils, and such comforts as may be gathered about
-a broad hearth and a roaring fire.
-
-Outside, the wind had died down and not a ripple disturbed the mirrored
-surface of the water, which reflected the delicate outline of cedar,
-pine, and oak, a lacy filament which shielded the setting sun from the
-already silvered reflection of the half-moon.
-
-“A perfect time of a perfect day, in a well-nigh perfect spot,” I said,
-by way of expressing the joy of my escape.
-
-“Such a burst of eloquence demands a toast,” remarked my friend.
-
-So we forthwith resorted to the aforesaid bottle, and then turned to and
-prepared supper—the inevitable scrambled eggs, deviled ham, bread and
-marmalade, and coffee.
-
-“To think of that howling mob at home only twenty minutes away,” I mused,
-puffing contentedly at my pipe and reveling in the silence.
-
-“To think of what a motor will do!” replied my friend, who was not
-unaware of my opinion of cars.
-
-I muttered something incoherently, and squirmed a bit at the thought of
-some of my notions.
-
-The next morning we were up with the sun, and after a hasty bite, put our
-canoe into the water and set about our main task.
-
-We were both fairly familiar with the haunts of the wily bass. In summer
-they lie close to the bottom, the laziest of fellows, sucking in the
-bait, if they notice it at all, in a dreamy fashion, but, once hooked,
-they show their mettle, and so, when I finally felt a slight strain on my
-line, I held back until I was sure of my fish. Yes, I had him, and a good
-big one at that.
-
-There is little or no casting in midsummer, so that I had brought a
-stouter trolling-rod, and it was just as well. I played that fellow for
-ten minutes, and when R⸺ finally netted him for me, we sat and looked at
-each other speechless.
-
-“By gad, he’s a five-pounder!” said my friend excitedly.
-
-“Hum—about four and three quarters,” I replied in a matter-of-fact tone
-to cover my excitement.
-
-We caught twelve that morning, several weighing two pounds or
-more,—splendid fishing, the best we had ever had on the pond.
-
-When we reached the camp and weighed my prize, he tipped the scales at
-five and three ounces—a record fish.
-
-Late in the afternoon the clouds began to gather and the wind turned
-northeast, so we decided to run for cover.
-
-I was at home in time for dinner, and found the spell broken. It was I
-who did the talking, an amazing amount of it, while the youngsters sat
-open-mouthed when my bass was brought onto the table in a platter all
-to himself, garnished by our cook, who, so says my wife, is proud of my
-ability as a provider.
-
-What more versatile land of summer, then, can one imagine than the
-seashore with an almost permanent breeze, with a chain of inland ponds
-remote and wild in character almost at one’s back door, motorively
-speaking?
-
-If variety is truly the spice of life, what better seasoned offering has
-any locality to show than Cape Cod?
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-IX
-
-AL FRESCO
-
-
-Before you pass judgment upon any man or woman of your acquaintance, ask
-him or her to a picnic. Then if you are not ready to form a decision,
-they will probably have made up their minds about you. A picnic, so
-the Dictionary has it, is an entertainment in a grove, an ominous and
-hazardous place at best for a good time, and one to be avoided except
-by sentimental couples, and therefore the Dictionary may be considered
-narrow-minded in naming the locality. Furthermore, its advice is rarely
-followed in these days, and the picnics which I prefer, and they are
-countless, are held upon the seashore and, for the most part, in the sea
-itself.
-
-There is a white, sandy beach of a mile or more, banked by great
-sand-dunes and bordering a section of Buzzard’s Bay which is
-comparatively unknown, where there are no houses, not even bath-houses,
-and where the delighted squeal of the noisy girl or the guffaw of the
-blatant youth is rarely heard. It is here that we frequently gather with
-a few good friends upon pleasant warm days, for an impromptu meal _al
-fresco_, preceded by a joyous bath in water as clear as crystal, warm and
-yet with a spiciness that clears the head from all drowsiness and whets
-the appetite to a keen edge.
-
-There are problems to every picnic. The conventions of life grip hard,
-and yet it is curious and sometimes amusing to see how thin the veneer
-really is when the primitive necessities of a picnic are faced.
-
-The sand-dunes are conveniently rolling, every now and then dipping into
-bowl-like formations, and in these sequestered or semi-sequestered nooks
-we don our bathing-suits and sally forth to the sea. One of our friends,
-a man somewhat particular as to his appearance and the soul of modesty,
-was directed to the appointed place, but his love for the view led him up
-the slope, so that, innocently turning our gaze shoreward, the feminine
-portion of our gathering was considerably disconcerted to see the apostle
-of Beau Brummel in nature’s garb innocently viewing the horizon and
-giving little heed to his natty bathing-suit, a black and orange affair
-with immaculate white belt which lay at his feet.
-
-The women, too, those who but a few moments before would have tried
-in every way to conceal a hole in their stockings, were glad to borrow
-bathing-dresses of any reasonable style if by chance they had forgotten
-to pack their own, and stockings seemed of no importance.
-
-To line up twenty or more on the beach and rush for a plunge, to breast
-the billows or to grope amid the sands for sea clams, to race along
-the beach for the sheer joy of life, is the glad part of what I call
-a picnic. And then the food! No meal which must be coaxed along by a
-cocktail or other appetizer, to prepare the way for course after course
-of indigestible concoctions planned by fertile-minded chefs, but honest
-beef and chicken and ham sandwiches, delicately prepared and tastefully
-arranged. Sandwiches of lettuce and cheese and paprika; sandwiches with
-sardines, with olives; graham sandwiches with a thin layer of marmalade
-or guava intended for the children, but partaken of by all. And stuffed
-eggs, the variety only to be found at a picnic and eaten in two gulps,
-the one place where such table manners are tolerated.
-
-And it is on picnics that the thermos bottle is most thoroughly
-appreciated. The miracle of hot bouillon, hot coffee, iced tea, and a
-variety of beverages, suitably chilled or heated, seems ever to be a
-source of fresh surprise and pleasure.
-
-Toward autumn, the picnics offer a new variety, for the children thrill
-at the expectation of cooking their own dinner. The joys of a bonfire,
-the excitement of burying potatoes, corn, and clams in seaweed, the
-frying of ham and eggs, and the occasional treat of flapjacks when one
-of our nautical friends happens to be of our number. These are but a few
-of the pleasures of a picnic such as one encounters on the shores of
-Buzzard’s Bay in August and September.
-
-It must be admitted that there are certain drawbacks which seem serious
-to the individual of fixed habits, tender feet, and uncertain digestion.
-There is, for example, the beautiful white sand, glistening in the
-sun, smooth as a billiard table and fine as powder. It must be admitted
-that after the bath one is conscious of the pervading quality of its
-particles. It is in one’s hair, one’s shoes, and often elsewhere about
-the person. It is discovered invading the aforesaid sandwiches, which
-seem well named at such times. A brisk wind slaps it into your eye or
-your mouth in disconcerting fashion, and you become aware of its grating
-presence. Then, again, there are clouds upon the horizon. To those who
-are seriously affected by the sand, these clouds look ominous. They may
-forebode a storm and a wetting. A certain clamminess of hands and feet,
-occasioned by the bath, remind one that a change in the weather precedes
-a cold in the head. These feelings mark the man of creature comforts and
-he fails to join in the part-singing which comes after the hearty meal,
-when pipes are lighted and the entire gathering stretch themselves upon
-the sands for a lazy half-hour before the inevitable cleaning-up process
-begins. This same individual declines to tell his best story, and should
-a ball game be suggested, he will be found callous to all coaxing. He
-has enough sand in his shoes as it is, or he has eaten too much for
-exercising, or possibly the clouds on the horizon lower more formidably.
-
-Yes, a picnic discloses the strength and weakness of character which
-mark our friends, and yet, after all, it does more, for it brings out the
-best in most of us, and few, even of our habitually conventional friends,
-fail to respond to the delights of a seashore picnic or lack in the
-essential philosophy of an outdoor, care-free existence.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-X
-
-MODELS
-
-
-Long before the Old Colony Railroad thought of running a line to Cape
-Cod—although that in itself was not so very long ago, well within the
-memory of man—there was one charm of the Cape which is fast vanishing and
-entirely unknown to the casual visitor and unappreciated by the perennial
-summer residents. In those days there was a host of rugged, sturdy men,
-intelligent, courageous, upright, and keen-minded. They were the Cape
-captains, the men who grew up among the sand-dunes, to the rote of the
-sea. The men who carried the good name of Cape Cod to the ends of the
-earth and who brought back with them the fortunes which made the little
-towns, dotted here and there along the shore, havens of comfort and rest.
-
-Such men could tell stories which would vie with those of Conrad and
-Stevenson, but for the most part their deeds go unrecorded except in
-their ships’ logs, for they were a simple, reserved company. Of this
-epoch there remains but one relic which is sought after by the present
-generation, and it savors of the antique. In fact, it is the antiquarian
-rather than the adventurer who ransacks the Cape at present for ships’
-models.
-
-In those early days there were months at a time when the ship’s company
-were idle, and it grew to be a custom for those clever with their hands
-to fashion models of the schooners in which they sailed or of seacraft
-notable for beauty of line or complexity of rig.
-
-Many an old sea captain would pass his idle moments in fashioning these
-miniature boats, and many members of the ships’ crews became adept at
-the hobby, for a knowledge of tools was almost an essential for every
-man on the Cape, where the trades of carpenter, painter, and plumber
-were generally performed by the householder. Furthermore, a sailor would
-infinitely prefer to whittle out a model than to swab down the deck, and
-frequently a clever mechanic would be relieved by his captain from this
-menial work, if he devoted his time to the perfection of a model which
-was destined for the mantel of the captain’s best parlor.
-
-Therefore, in the old days, there was scarcely a Cape family of saltwater
-ancestry which did not boast of at least one model and often more, the
-trademark of an honorable and hazardous occupation and a relic of former
-days of plenty when the Cape was peopled only by the native Cape-Codders
-and before steam took from them the vocation to which they were reared.
-
-To-day the captain of a full-rigged ship is as hard to find as the
-vessel herself, and the Cape exists upon the summer residents and upon
-the less productive occupation of fishing, which is largely in the hands
-of the Portuguese, who have come in droves to settle upon our land of
-Bartholomew Gosnold and his company of adventurers. And so the interest
-in ships and in tales of the sea has disappeared along with those who
-upheld the trade; and the models, familiar sights to the descendants,
-have been relegated to the attic or have been sold as curiosities to the
-ubiquitous dealers in antiques, who persistently come to the Cape for old
-furniture, pewter, china—anything, in fact, which can be palmed off on
-that voracious type of collector, the lover of antiques.
-
-During the last few years, for some reason or other, these models have
-become very popular. Just why it is not easy to explain. It is true
-that they typify a lost trade which was full of adventure. It is also
-true that they are decorative, many of them, but that hardly explains
-the ravenous appetite which many collectors of antiques have recently
-developed to obtain a genuine model. Dealers have secured agents in
-every town on the Cape who are ransacking their neighborhoods for models,
-half-models, pictures of boats made in bas-reliefs, weather vanes in the
-shape of ships, and the prices are increasing by leaps and bounds. In
-fact, so popular has this fad become that ex-sailors and carpenters with
-some slight acquaintance with the sea are now developing quite a business
-in fashioning models of special designs or of former famous ships. A few
-years ago the model of a schooner about two feet in length fully rigged
-would bring in the neighborhood of twenty-five dollars; to-day the same
-model could not be secured for less than one hundred dollars. Often the
-smaller, more exquisitely made specimens will bring more. The descendants
-of the old captains have lost any sentimental regard for these relics
-and gladly part with them for a comparatively small sum, but only to the
-patient and skillful, who know Cape ways and Cape people, and so it is
-almost impossible for the tourist to secure a model except from a dealer.
-
-Should the casual summer visitor attempt to bargain with his native Cape
-neighbor, he would find him a wily bird, suspicious of being imposed upon
-and as likely as not to put an absurd valuation upon his possession; and
-yet that same Cape neighbor might part with the model the next day to a
-total stranger for a smaller sum, for such is the nature of the denizen
-of the Cape. This contrary-mindedness and disinclination to do a favor is
-not unusual, but as against this trait, he will be found to be a genial
-host and a kindly acquaintance often generous beyond his means.
-
-And so to-day we witness the passing of the models, last relic of the
-olden days, the golden days of Cape Cod, from those tiny Cape cottages
-built by these same sturdy sea captains to the comfortable mansions of
-the summer people whose knowledge of the sea is secured in July and
-August by an occasional dip, a sail in a knockabout, and a glimpse of a
-glorious sunset over the shining waters of the Atlantic Ocean.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-XI
-
-“A WET SHEET AND A FLOWING SEA”
-
-
-In my youthful days I often wondered at the regularity with which elderly
-people would go out to drive day after day, sitting in the same seat in
-the same carriage, behind the same horses, driven by the same coachman
-along the same roads. It seemed to me a lamentable waste of time. And now
-I have more or less (less as the years advance) the same feeling toward
-those couples whose chief relaxation is a spin along the state roads of
-their district in a well-appointed limousine, for I belong to that class
-of motorists who use their cars purely for convenience and prefer the
-fresh-air variety.
-
-Yet, when it comes to sailing, for some reason which I am at a loss to
-explain, my views are diametrically opposite. I am content to clamber
-into my knockabout and to perform the routine labor of pumping “her” out,
-unfurling and hoisting the sail, and casting off, then to cruise lazily
-about our harbor, sailing over the same course day in and day out with
-little variation, and to do this either alone or with a kindred spirit
-as the case may be.
-
-To many these cases may seem parallel, but to me they are widely variant.
-There is a formality to a drive or a motor ride which starts with the
-costume worn and ends with the character of conversation.
-
-On a boat—and I am speaking entirely of small boats—the costume is of a
-heterogeneous variety and the conversation of the freest. In fact, there
-is something so thoroughly unconventional about life on the water that
-even the stiffest of Brahminian Bostonians may occasionally be heard to
-indulge in slang and to assume a rakish attitude, perched upon deck.
-
-But such criticism, or rather comparison, is highly superficial. There
-is more to it than external appearance; for sailing brings out the best
-in human nature, encourages philosophy, develops independence of thought
-and act, and largely so because those who sail shed their coating of
-reserve and allow their natural feelings fair play. There is no quicker
-way to know and size up one’s friends than to go on a cruise for a few
-days. There is no better way of enjoying and extending one’s friendships
-with both sexes than spending a few afternoons sailing together, skirting
-along the shore with a fair breeze, nor is there any quicker way of
-learning the weaknesses of certain individuals than by observing their
-conduct under perhaps less peaceful conditions at sea. For the best of
-skippers cannot predict weather conditions, and there are times when wind
-and storm will come upon one with surprising quickness.
-
-Here in New England, the sailing fraternity may be divided into those
-who prefer the Maine coast and those who cling to the Cape and Buzzard’s
-Bay. As one of the latter class, I always claim our supremacy by stating
-two points which I believe to be true: first, that we have more wind, and
-second, that we have less fog. To me this is convincing. The southwest
-wind which cools the Cape, blows nearly every day in summer and with a
-strength that often requires reefing. Rarely between ten in the morning
-and five at night will the mariner find himself becalmed in Buzzard’s
-Bay. In fact, the stranger is generally amazed to see girls and young
-boys sailing without the presence of an older person, in what looks to
-him a three-reef breeze.
-
-They have been brought up to it and realize that vigilance must always be
-exercised on the water, and they know the qualities of their boat and the
-power of the wind. I know of no better training for youngsters who are
-proficient in swimming than to learn to sail and race their own little
-boats. The development of a power of observation, accurate judgment,
-prompt action, and steady nerve comes more quickly with the handling of a
-boat than in any other way for those who lead our kind of life.
-
-Sailing is confined to boats, but boats are not by any means confined to
-sailing, for latterly there are almost as many motor-boats to be found
-chugging along the shores of the Cape as there are sailboats, although
-I personally always pity the groups in the stern of one of these modern
-affairs which makes its noisy passage leaving an odorous wake of oil and
-smoke. But doubtless I am extreme in my views and old-fashioned in my
-taste.
-
-Give me a knockabout—a fifteen-footer for real comfort for a daily sail,
-a stiff member of the twenty-one-foot class for cruising along shore.
-Give me a comfortable catboat, broad of beam, for a family boat or for
-a day’s fishing, or let me idle about in one of our little twelve-foot
-Herreshoff class with my small son. In any one of them I shall find the
-same sense of freedom, the same sort of pleasure, and the same love for
-the salt sea, and from each I shall look at the windy, sandy shores of
-the Cape with the same loyal affection.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-XII
-
-MY CAPE FARM
-
-
-If I have thought of it at all, I have thought of myself as a sociable
-cuss. Not that I like sociables; I hate them, and that is probably why
-they have gone out of fashion. What to my mind defines sociability is the
-quality of enjoying and giving enjoyment to others, singly, in pairs, or
-in groups; and in present days sociability is generally put to the test
-either at dinners or at week-end parties, for these are the principal
-points of contact between friends.
-
-Latterly, however, my social bent has been somewhat warped by the growing
-desire on the part of my friends to boast of their success as producers
-of food. Whether it be premature senility, the result of conservation, or
-merely the acquisition of wealth, which is being rapidly returned to its
-own through the purchase of land and the ingenuity of gardeners, it is a
-fact that at dinners of the cut-and-dried variety or a family gathering,
-or, more especially, over a week-end, my host invariably calls attention
-to the asparagus with a modest cough as prelude, or my hostess mentions
-the number of eggs the farmer brought in yesterday to be put down in
-water-glass. Sometimes it is not asparagus, but peas, or corn, or perhaps
-a chicken, or even a ham. This the host. His wife more generally dilates
-upon the milk products and the preserving end of the bill of fare; but,
-for whatever cause, the thing got a bit on my nerves, so that I found
-myself thinking of reasons for not visiting So-and-So or for not dining
-with the Thing-um-Bobs on Friday week, when I knew we hadn’t a thing on
-earth to do.
-
-This frame of mind was, of course, all wrong. In the first place, these
-friends were as good and as loyal as they were ten years ago, when,
-if they had any garden at all, it consisted of a half-dozen radishes
-that no one could eat without summoning a physician within four hours.
-Furthermore, the aforesaid asparagus, with its accompaniments, was
-better than the ordinary variety which has decorated the entrance to the
-greengrocer’s establishment for the better part of a week. And lastly, as
-I had no garden myself, why not enjoy the best and be thankful?
-
-Probably the reason was envy and the season spring, when, contrary to
-budding nature, one’s own physical being is not as blooming as it should
-be.
-
-Be this as it may, the final result has probably made me more of a bore
-to my friends than they ever were to me, for to get even with them I
-conceived the happy idea of catering to their epicurean tastes from my
-own farm, which consisted of a scant two acres of shore line in that
-section of Cape Cod which is renowned for its scarcity of soil.
-
-The idea came to me soon after we had moved down for the summer months,
-and my wife became so enthusiastic that it really became our hobby for
-the season. We had planned for a succession of week-ends, and many of
-these agricultural intimates were coming to us for return visits. We
-would feed them upon the fat of our land or in this case largely the fat
-of the sea.
-
-It is interesting and instructive to learn just what varieties of food
-can be secured from the immediate vicinity of any place, and to me
-especially so of our Cape Cod.
-
-During the entire summer I felt so personal an interest in our section
-of the country that my small son exclaimed one day that I talked as if I
-owned the entire Cape. I know I felt a proprietary interest in certain
-fishing grounds, the whereabouts of which I would not confess even on
-the rack. And it amuses me now to think of the circuitous routes I used
-in getting to certain berry patches and stretches where mushrooms grew
-overnight. In variety our dinners, or high teas (as we always called
-them), were infinite as compared with those of our asparagus associates.
-
-I remember one little repast which pleased me mightily, because it came
-at the end of one of those hot days—they are rare on the Cape—when the
-wind refused to blow from the southwest. We had had our swim, but even
-golf was a bit too strenuous and food does not have its usual appeal on
-such occasions even on the Cape. It also happened that our friends of
-this particular week-end were literally congested with land and its more
-generous offerings, and so when I practiced the usual humiliatory cough
-and remarked that our simple repast came from my Cape farm and they must
-excuse its simplicity, I was just a trifle nervous.
-
-The melons were a gift from my plumber, a curious combination. If only
-the plumber could plumb as well as he grows melons upon his barren
-sandpile, our summer comfort would be increased by fifty per cent. No
-better melons can be found than these little fellows. The clam-broth,
-from my own clam-bed, was an appetizer. I seriously believe that there
-is real energizing value in such clam-broth as this, boiled down almost
-to a _liqueur_ from newly dug clams. Then came scallops plucked that
-day from the seaweed, where they lie at low tide blowing like miniature
-whales. We all know how delicious they are in the autumn served with
-_tartare_ sauce, but have you ever tasted them creamed with a dash of
-brown sherry and served with fresh mushrooms?
-
-Just as the plumber supplies us with melons, so the fishman is the local
-authority on lettuce. Our salad, therefore, came from Captain Barwick,
-crisp and white with slices of early pears from a near-by tree, and with
-it my favorite muffins of coarse, white cornmeal toasted, thin, and eaten
-with beach-plum jam made from our own bushes in the bramble patch close
-by the lane, and cottage cheese which our cook positively enjoys making.
-
-My wife had felt this to be a rather scant repast for those used to
-dinners of six or eight courses, and so the dessert was a substantial
-huckleberry pudding served cold from the ice-chest with whipped
-cream, and to take the chill off we had a small glass of my home-made
-wild-cherry brandy with our coffee; and while there are other beverages
-which are preferable I confess it gave us a delightfully comforting
-sensation.
-
-The hearty, genuine praise from my guests gave me a fleeting feeling of
-shame at the way I had criticized their asparagus and numberless eggs,
-but the pride of success carried me with it.
-
-“Oh, this is not anything; wait until to-morrow and let me show you the
-varieties which my farm offers. In the catboat, I have a well in which we
-keep fish alive. What say you to a butterfish for breakfast? For dinner
-we can either go out to the fishing grounds for something with a real
-pull to it, or we can motor over to Turtle Pond for a try at a bass, or
-we can golf and take a couple of lobsters out of my pots bobbing up and
-down out there by the point.”
-
-“Hold on,” my friend interjected. “What I want to know is whether every
-one on the Cape lives in this way, for if they do I think I shall be
-moving down here by another season.”
-
-“No,” I replied, “very few. In the first place, most people continue to
-do just what their neighbors do—tennis, golf, swimming, sailing. The
-fishing is poor unless you know where to go. The natives are not helpful
-unless you know how to take them, and that is why I call it all _my_
-farm, because I have taken it all unto myself and I reap a reward much
-richer than I deserve.
-
-“I pass much of my time hunting up new fishing grounds or the lair of
-the soft-shell crab, or even the quiet, muddy recesses of the ‘little
-necks.’ I wander about the country exploring new berry patches, for there
-is a great variety of these. And if you must know, I fraternize with
-certain delightfully conversational individuals who sell me delicious
-fruit and vegetables as well as ducks and chickens and a variety of odds
-and ends, as, for instance, that little model over there. But you could
-not buy them. No, sir, not until you learned the art of negotiation to
-perfection. You may manage your estates to the Queen’s taste, but when it
-comes to managing a Cape-Codder, ah, that’s not done so easily.”
-
-I see my friends leading the conventional summer life and wonder at
-times how they can come to the Cape year after year and yet be strangers
-to its real fascination, because it has many other hidden allurements
-besides this quest for food.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-XIII
-
-SCALLOPS
-
-
-Sport, according to our highest authorities, is “that which diverts
-and makes mirth,” and from this general interpretation the term has
-been applied to games, and to the various forms of hunting and fishing
-commonly known, but I have yet to hear the word applied to the pursuit
-of the scallop. And yet, scalloping more nearly approaches the original
-meaning of sport than most of the games which are commonly classed under
-this heading, for not only does the scallop divert and provoke the mirth
-of his pursuer, but the pursuer in turn evokes a similar feeling and
-impression upon those who chance to see him in action. Those who have
-never tasted the joys and excitement of a scallop hunt have not completed
-their education as real sportsmen. It is true that Badminton does not
-devote a volume to this particular pastime; it is equally true that the
-progressive American journalist, whose duty it is to supply the sporting
-columns of his paper with all the news of current athletic events,
-invariably ignores this important item, and our mighty Nimrods fail to
-include scalloping among their feats of prowess; but in each case the
-cause of the omission invariably can be traced to ignorance, and to the
-fact that your scallop-hunter is a wary fellow who says but little and
-boasts less, fearing inadvertently to disclose the favored haunts of his
-favorite prey. And so, for these and divers causes, the pursuit of the
-scallop lies in obscurity.
-
-On the other hand, the scallop has been a friend to man for generations
-in many and varied ways. In the days of the Crusaders, the pilgrims
-returning from the Holy Land wore scallop shells, gathered upon the coast
-of Palestine, as a badge or mark of the success of their wanderings.
-At an equally early period the scallop shell became an important factor
-in design, from architecture, through the various stages, to the
-adornment of women’s clothes. The scallop shell is discovered embedded
-in the capitals of many famous columns. It will be found chiseled upon
-the keystones of countless arches. Scarcely a theater but possesses it
-among its mural decorations. Upon the title-pages of books it serves in
-an equally decorative capacity, while the scalloping upon the hems of
-dresses brings the scallop’s shell familiarly into our family life.
-
-In addition to all this, certain families of ancient lineage have
-adopted the shell as a part of their crest. Heraldry traces the cause to
-the days of the Knights of the Holy Land.
-
-The scallop, therefore, has been sought by generations, and is no marine
-upstart basing his claims to popularity upon his flavor as a savory dish
-for a modern Lucullus. In short, the scallop is historic, artistic,
-decorative, and delicious. In real life, however, he is one of the
-numerous marine bivalve mollusks of the genus _Pecten_, and to those who
-have not already recognized the symmetrically ribbed shells so often
-found upon our beaches, a dictionary is recommended.
-
-Although his past is buried in the annals of the Holy Land, in Ægean
-waters, and upon the banks of the Red Sea, just at present he is rampant
-upon the shoals of Cape Cod, and it is here that our scallopers pursue
-him during the weeks previous to early autumn days, when the Cape
-fisherman wages destruction with sea-rakes, seines, and nets.
-
-Imagine the tide running low, disclosing the bright, sandy bottoms of
-countless inlets, the ripple of the waters making dim the outlines of
-the corrugated surfaces of the submerged shore. At such times, and in
-certain localities which shall be nameless, the wily hunter issues forth
-in bathing-suit or rubber-booted, or even—in the enthusiasm of the
-moment—fully clothed, with pail or basket sometimes attached to his waist
-by a cord. He wades in at a slow pace, gazing searchingly into the depths
-of the water for a sign of his prey, choosing at first the shoals where
-it is easier to see, and as likely a spot as others for fine shellfish.
-And here a curious phenomenon is discovered; his eye catches the glint
-of a shining shell and he stoops to secure it, only to find a half shell
-without life. The brighter the shell, the less chance of its being
-inhabited. The scallop covers himself when possible with a few strands
-of seaweed, or buries himself in the mud or sand, and therefore, when
-in the full bloom of life, he looks like a hoary, hairy thing of past
-history, an encrusted shell from which life might have departed a century
-ago. If, by good fortune, the hand comes in contact with him, however,
-his vitality is made quickly evident by a savage snap of his shell, as
-the large muscle expands and contracts in self-defense, and should a
-finger become caught between the upper and lower shells, the hunter is
-in for a sharp nip. The quest leads from spot to spot, from shoal water
-out into deeper parts, until one finds one’s self waist-deep, bending and
-stooping, raking the bottom with frenzied hand groping for these tufted
-prizes, and when one is fortunate to secure a good spot, the hand never
-fails to bring up one, two, and sometimes more, of these irate creatures
-whose antics evoke admiration and whose strength seems almost abnormal.
-
-There are bright, warm days in the latter part of August when on many
-parts of the shore may be seen men, women, and children by scores,
-curiously and wonderfully garbed, grotesquely postured, wading the
-waters in this fascinating pursuit, which, after the quiet glamor of
-clam-digging, possesses the excitement of big-game hunting. Were it not
-for a strict law these same hardy hunters would, undoubtedly, be found in
-dories, plying a small net for the same purpose, but the very crudity
-of the chase has its advantages, for one comes close to the life of the
-sea bottom, and all that goes on there, from the waving masses of seaweed
-of many varieties to the countless forms of life clinging to the rocks,
-embedded in the mud or darting through the water. The sea bottom is as
-busy as Broadway, and as full of mystery.
-
-The reader must not for a moment imagine the scallop, however, as
-belonging to a sedentary type of life. Often he is found moving at a high
-rate of speed through the water, propelled by this same muscle which
-provides his defense. By opening and closing his shell he moves forward
-and upward or downward, apparently at will, digging himself into the mud
-and effectually hiding himself from his pursuers. He deserves the respect
-of his superiors in the animal kingdom, and at the same time proves
-himself fair game by his prowess.
-
-And so one is led out and out still farther, until, bent upon securing
-one more victim, a mouthful of water and smarting eyes give notice that
-those beyond are safe for the time being, and the successful hunter
-returns to his boat with a full pail, while the sun, enormous and a deep
-orange red, is just touching the horizon.
-
-The conquest is not complete, for it is no easy task to open these
-snapping bivalves, and thus to extract the muscle that is the edible
-portion, and the full reward is by no means reaped. That is left for the
-evening meal, when the scallop becomes the _pièce de résistance_ cooked
-in one of a hundred ways. But of this let a _cordon bleu_ convince you,
-whose best efforts are secured and deserved by the scallop.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_AFTERMATH_
-
-
-And now comes the fall of the year with days gorgeous in coloring, from
-the clear crystal blue of the sky reflected in sparkling waters to the
-flame-tinted stretches of woodland watched over by tall pines and guarded
-by stately cedars. The sandy roads glisten in the distances, marking off
-sections of the Cape country as a huge picture puzzle. The atmosphere
-seems purged of all imperfection, giving to every town and hamlet a
-spotless appearance bright with late flowers and fresh fruit awaiting
-the harvest. Azure days of October, the most perfect of the year. It is
-then that regretfully we say “au revoir” to our beloved Cape in all its
-glory.
-
-
-
-
- The Riverside Press
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