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- page-break-after: always; } - div.titlepage p {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; - line-height: 1.5; margin-top: 3em; } - .ph1 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; - margin: .67em auto; page-break-before: always; } - .ph2 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; - page-break-before: always; } - .border {border-style: solid;border-width: 1px; } - .x-ebookmaker p.dropcap:first-letter { float: left; } - .colwidth19 {width: 19%; } - .colwidth26 {width: 26%; } - .colwidth31 {width: 31%; } - .colwidth33 {width: 33%; } - .colwidth39 {width: 39%; } - .colwidth48 {width: 48%; } - /* ]]> */ </style> - </head> - <body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Nearest the Pole, by Robert E. Peary</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Nearest the Pole</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>a narrative of the polar expedition of the Peary Arctic Club in the S.S. Roosevelt, 1905-1906</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Robert E. Peary</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 4, 2022 [eBook #68906]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEAREST THE POLE ***</div> - -<div class='tnotes covernote'> - -<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p> - -<p class='c000'>The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -</div> - -<div class='chapter ph1'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>NEAREST THE POLE</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='border'> - -<div class='chapter ph2'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>THE GEOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='border'> - -<div class='lg-container-b c002'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>The Opening of Tibet, <i>By Perceval Landon</i></div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Flashlights in the Jungle, <i>By C. G. Schillings</i></div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>The Passing of Korea, <i>By Homer B. Hulbert</i></div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fighting the Polar Ice, <i>By Anthony Fiala</i></div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Nearest the Pole, <i>By R. E. Peary, U. S. N.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div id='Frontispiece' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_frontispiece.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>“NEAREST THE POLE”<br /><br />COMMANDER ROBERT E. PEARY PLANTING THE AMERICAN FLAG LATITUDE 87° 6′, APRIL 21, 1906<br /><br />Painted by Albert Operti, from photographs</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='titlepage'> - -<div> - <h1 class='c003'><span class='color_red'>Nearest the Pole</span><br /> <span class='large'>A Narrative of the Polar Expedition of the Peary Arctic Club in the S. S. Roosevelt, 1905–1906</span></h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div>By</div> - <div class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>R. E. PEARY, U. S. N.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c005'><i>With ninety-five photographs by the -author, two maps and a frontispiece -in colour by Albert Operti</i></p> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/i_title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>New York</div> - <div>Doubleday, Page & Company</div> - <div>1907</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Copyright, 1907, by</span></span></div> - <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Doubleday, Page & Company</span></span></div> - <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Published, April, 1907</span></span></div> - <div class='c002'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>All Rights Reserved</span></span></div> - <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Including that of Translation into Foreign Languages</span></span></div> - <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Including the Scandinavian</span></span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>TO HER WHO HAS BEEN</div> - <div>MY CONSTANT AID AND INSPIRATION</div> - <div>AND HAS BORNE THE BRUNT</div> - <div>OF IT ALL</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_vii'>vii</span> -<img src='images/i_vii.jpg' alt='NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY INCORPORATED A.D. 1888' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div> - <h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION</h2> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The Address of President Roosevelt on his presentation -of the Hubbard Medal of the National Geographic -Society to Commander Robert E. Peary, at the annual -banquet of the Society, December 15, 1906.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>I count myself fortunate in having been asked to be -present this evening at such a gathering and on behalf of -such a society to pay a tribute of honour to an American -who emphatically deserves well of the commonwealth. -Civilised people usually live under conditions of life so -easy that there is a certain tendency to atrophy of the -hardier virtues. And it is a relief to pay signal honour -to a man who by his achievements makes it evident that -in some of the race, at least, there has been no loss of -hardy virtue.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>I said some loss of the hardier virtues. We will do -well to recollect that the very word virtue, in itself, originally -signifies courage and hardihood. When the Roman -spoke of virtue he meant that sum of qualities that we -characterise as manliness.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_viii'>viii</span><i>I emphatically believe in peace and all the kindred -virtues. But I think that they are only worth having if -they come as a consequence of possessing the combined -virtue of courage and hardihood. So I feel that in an -age which naturally and properly excels, as it should excel, -in the milder and softer qualities, there is need that we -should not forget that in the last analysis the safe basis of -a successful national character must rest upon the great -fighting virtues, and those great fighting virtues can be -shown quite as well in peace as in war.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>They can be shown in the work of the philanthropist; -in the work of the scientist; and, most emphatically of all, -in the work of the explorer, who faces and overcomes -perils and hardships which the average soldier never in -his life knows. In war, after all, it is only the man at the -very head who is ever lonely. All the others, from the -subordinate generals down through the privates, are -cheered and sustained by the sense of companionship and -by the sense of divided responsibility.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>You, the man whom we join to honour to-night, you, -who for month in and month out, year in and year out, had -to face perils and overcome the greatest risks and difficulties -with resting on your shoulders the undivided responsibility -which meant life or death to you and your -followers—you had to show in addition what the modern -commander with his great responsibility does not have to -show. You had to show all the moral qualities in war, -together with other qualities. You did a great deed, a -deed that counted for all mankind, a deed which reflected -credit upon you and upon your country; and on behalf of -those present, and speaking also for the millions of your -countrymen, I take pleasure in handing you this -Hubbard medal, and in welcoming you home from the -great feat which you have performed, Commander Peary.</i></p> -<div id='viii' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_viii.jpg' alt='_R. E. Peary_' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>COMMANDER ROBERT E. PEARY</p> -</div> -</div> -<div id='ix' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_ix.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MORRIS K. JESUP</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c010'><span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span>Peary’s reply to President Roosevelt on the presentation -of the Hubbard Medal of the National Geographic -Society, December 15, 1906.</p> - -<p class='c009'><i>President Roosevelt: In behalf of the Peary Arctic -Club and its president, Morris K. Jesup, I beg to express -our deep appreciation of the great honour conferred by the -National Geographic Society in this award of its gold -medal, and the double honour of receiving this medal from -your hand.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>Your continued interest, Mr. President, your permission -to name the club’s ship after you, and your name itself -have proved a powerful talisman. Could I have foreseen -this occasion, it would have lightened many dark hours, -but I will frankly say that it would not, for it could not, -have increased my efforts.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>The true explorer does his work not for any hopes of -reward or honour, but because the thing he has set himself -to do is a part of his being, and must be accomplished for -the sake of the accomplishment. And he counts lightly -hardships, risks, obstacles, if only they do not bar him -from his goal.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>To me the final and complete solution of the Polar mystery -which has engaged the best thought and interest of some -of the best men of the most vigorous and enlightened -nations of the world for more than three centuries, and -to-day quickens the pulse of every man or woman whose -veins hold red blood, is the thing which should be done for -the honour and credit of this country, the thing which it is -intended that I should do, and the thing that I must do.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span><i>The result of the last expedition of the Peary Arctic -Club has been to simplify the attainment of the Pole -fifty per cent., to accentuate the fact that man and the -Eskimo dog are the only two mechanisms capable -of meeting all the varying contingencies of Arctic -work, and that the American route to the Pole and -the methods and equipment which have been brought -to a high state of perfection, during the past fifteen -years, still remain the most practicable means of -attaining that object.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>Had the past winter been a normal season in the -Arctic region and not, as it was, a particularly open one -throughout the Northern hemisphere, I should have won -the prize. And even if I had known before leaving the -land what actual conditions were to the northward, as I -know now, I could have so modified my route and my disposition -of sledges that I could have reached the Pole in -spite of the open season.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>Another expedition following in my steps and profiting -by my experience cannot only attain the Pole; but -can secure the remaining principal desiderata in the -Arctic regions, namely, a line of deep-sea soundings -through the central Polar Ocean, and the delineation of -the unknown gap in the northeast coast line of Greenland -from Cape Morris Jesup to Cape Bismarck. And this -work can be done in a single season.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>As regards the belief expressed by some that the -attainment of the North Pole possesses no value or interest, -let me say that should an American first of all men -place the Stars and Stripes at that coveted spot, there is not -an American citizen at home or abroad, and there are -millions of us, but what would feel a little better and a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_xi'>xi</span>little prouder of being an American; and just that added -increment of pride and patriotism to millions, would of -itself alone be worth ten times the cost of attaining the -Pole.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>President Roosevelt, for nearly four centuries the -world dreamed of the union of the Atlantic and Pacific. -You have planted the Stars and Stripes at Panama and -insured the realisation of that dream.</i></p> - -<p class='c009'><i>For over three centuries the world has dreamed of -solving the mystery of the North. To-night the Stars and -Stripes stand nearest to that mystery, pointing and beckoning. -And, God willing, I hope that your administration -may yet see those Stars and Stripes planted at -the Pole itself. For, between those two great cosmic -boundaries, the Panama Canal and the North Pole, lie -the heritage and the stupendous future of that giant whose -destinies you guide to-day, the United States of America.</i></p> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_xi.jpg' alt='·THE·HUBBARD MEDAL· AWARDED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY TO ROBERT E. PEARY FOR ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. FARTHEST NORTH 87°6′ DECEMBER 15th 1906' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xiii'>xiii</span> - <h2 class='c006'>ANNOUNCEMENT</h2> -</div> -<div class='lg-container-r c011'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>New York, March 30, 1907</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>The Peary Arctic Club at a recent meeting resolved unanimously to -place the <i>Roosevelt</i> on dry dock for a refitting, and to subsequently tender -the same to Commander Peary for a final attempt to be made by him to -reach the North Pole. Believing Commander Peary will be successful, -the Club has taken this action, and they have every confidence in the -gallant and intrepid American, and share in the pride that must animate -the American people to see planted at the North Pole the American flag.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Peary Arctic Club asks the aid of those who have heretofore contributed, -as well as the co-operation and aid of all or any who are interested -in this patriotic enterprise. The expense of this final expedition it -is estimated will be one hundred thousand dollars.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-r c013'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Morris K. Jesup</span>, <i>President</i>.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-r c004'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>New York, March 30, 1907</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The fact, as indicated in Mr. Jesup’s letter, that the -Peary Arctic Club hopes to send out another Polar -Expedition the coming summer, will, I trust, be accepted -as an excuse for any shortcomings in this -volume.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The writer has, from the day of his return, been -under the stress of insistent and incessant demands, -and in working and planning for the next campaign, -has found it difficult and at times impossible to put -this narrative of the campaign just finished, in the -shape that would do full justice to himself and his -publishers.</p> - -<div class='figright id004'> -<img src='images/i_xiii.jpg' alt='_R. E. Peary_' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xv'>xv</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0'> - <tr> - <th class='c014'></th> - <th class='c015'> </th> - <th class='c016'><span class='small'>PAGE</span></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'>Introduction</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_vii'>vii</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th class='c014'>CHAPTER</th> - <th class='c015'> </th> - <th class='c016'> </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>I.</td> - <td class='c015'>From New York to Etah</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>II.</td> - <td class='c015'>Etah to Cape Sheridan</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>III.</td> - <td class='c015'>Autumn at Cape Sheridan</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>IV.</td> - <td class='c015'>Through the “Great Night”</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>V.</td> - <td class='c015'>Sheridan to the “Big Lead”</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_97'>97</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>VI.</td> - <td class='c015'>From the “Big Lead” to 87° 6′ N. Lat.</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_123'>123</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>VII.</td> - <td class='c015'>From 87° 6′ to the Greenland Coast</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_139'>139</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>VIII.</td> - <td class='c015'>Along the Greenland Coast to the <i>Roosevelt</i></td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_153'>153</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>IX.</td> - <td class='c015'>Westward Over the Glacial Fringe of Grant Land</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_173'>173</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>X.</td> - <td class='c015'>Westward Over the Glacial Fringe of Grant Land Continued</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_195'>195</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XI.</td> - <td class='c015'>The Return from “Farthest West”</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_219'>219</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XII.</td> - <td class='c015'>Cape Sheridan to Etah</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_247'>247</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XIII.</td> - <td class='c015'>Etah to New York</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_265'>265</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XIV.</td> - <td class='c015'>The Peary Arctic Club</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_285'>285</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XV.</td> - <td class='c015'>Report of Expedition of 1898–1902</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_295'>295</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XVI.</td> - <td class='c015'>The <i>Roosevelt</i></td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_355'>355</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>XVII.</td> - <td class='c015'>My Eskimos</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_375'>375</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c016'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c015'>Index</td> - <td class='c016'><a href='#Page_397'>397</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xvii'>xvii</span> - <h2 class='c006'>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0'> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>“Nearest the Pole”: Commander Robert E. Peary Planting the American Flag, Latitude 87° 6′, April 21, 1906 (Coloured)</span></td> - <td class='c017'><i><a href='#Frontispiece'>Frontispiece</a></i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'> </td> - <td class='c017'><span class='small'>FACING PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Commander Robert E. Peary</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#viii'>viii</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Morris K. Jesup</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ix'>ix</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Steward Percy</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Dr. Wolf</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Commander Peary</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Captain Bartlett</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Mr. Marvin</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Mate Bartlett</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Chief Engineer Wardwell</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Matthew Henson</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'>“Bo’sun” <span class='sc'>Murphy</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Sailors</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Firemen</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Interior of Peary’s Cabin Aboard the “Roosevelt”</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_13'>13</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>A Melville Bay Iceberg</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_14'>14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Typical Whale Sound Glacier</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_14'>14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Oomunui, the Peculiar Peak at the Entrance of the North Star Bay</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_23'>23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Coaling at Etah</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Transferring Walrus Meat at Etah</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Auxiliary S. S. “Erik” in the Harbour of Etah</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_27'>27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Barrier at Cape Collinson</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_28'>28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Entering the Smith Sound Ice</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Open Water Off Cape Lupton</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Squeeze Near “The Gap”</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_38'>38</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Bringing Off the “Polaris” Boat from Boat Camp, Newman Bay</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_41'>41</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xviii'>xviii</span><span class='sc'>Cape Sumner, Greenland</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_42'>42</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Birthday Cape, Wrangel Bay, Grinnell Land</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_42'>42</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The “Roosevelt” Immediately After Arrival at Cape Sheridan</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Alert’s Cairn, at Floeberg Beach</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Petersen’s Grave, Overlooking Floeberg Beach</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Cape Sheridan and the Polar Ocean</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_75'>75</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The “Roosevelt” at Cape Sheridan, After a Southerly Gale</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_76'>76</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>A Day’s Hare Shooting at Sheridan</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Return of Hunting Party from Cape Henry with First Specimens of New Reindeer</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Last View of the Sun, Black Cape, October 12, 1906</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_82'>82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Shaping the Runners</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_85'>85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimos Making Sledges on Board the “Roosevelt”</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_85'>85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Salmon Trout from Lake Hazen</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_86'>86</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimos Fishing on Lake Hazen</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_86'>86</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Moonlight View of the “Roosevelt” in Winter Quarters at Cape Sheridan</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_89'>89</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Bow of the “Roosevelt” in Winter Quarters</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_90'>90</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Weighing Musk-Ox Meat</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Reindeer and Musk-Ox Meat in the Rigging</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Crossing Fielden Peninsula</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Cape Hecla with Cape Joseph Henry in the Distance</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_103'>103</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Captain Bartlett at Cape Hecla</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_104'>104</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Delay Camp at the “Big Lead,” 84° 38′</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_107'>107</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimo Drawings Made at Storm Camp</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_108'>108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>A Sample of the Arctic Pack</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_157'>157</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>As They Rounded up the Herd of Musk-Oxen, Nare’s Land</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_158'>158</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>After the Killing</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_158'>158</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Egingwah and the Morris K. Jesup Sledge</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_175'>175</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>My Entire Western Party on the Road to Cape Columbia</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_175'>175</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xix'>xix</span><span class='sc'>The Twin Peaks at Cape Columbia With the Morris K. Jesup Sledge in the Foreground</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_176'>176</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Live Bull Musk-Ox at Close Quarters, Cape Columbia</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_179'>179</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Musk-Ox at Cape Columbia</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_180'>180</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Alpine Summit of Cape Colgate</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_197'>197</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Cape Thomas Hubbard. Northern Extremity of Jesup Land. (Heiberger Land of Sverdrup’s)</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_198'>198</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Cape Colgate. Northwestern Angle of Grant Land</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_198'>198</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Egingwah and Reindeer at Cape Hubbard</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_221'>221</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Crossing a Stream on the Glacial Fringe</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_222'>222</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Our Camp on Land West of Aldrich’s Farthest</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_222'>222</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Typical Eskimo Dog</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_237'>237</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Crush Near Cape Union. Where the “Roosevelt” Lost Rudder, Stern-post, and Part of Propeller</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_238'>238</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Sipsu and His Family. Returning to the Ship from Fort Conger</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_241'>241</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The “Roosevelt” Forced Aground in Wrangel Bay</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_242'>242</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The “Roosevelt” in Wrangel Bay</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_242'>242</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimo Family Going Ashore at Lady Franklin Bay for Winter at Fort Conger</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_251'>251</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Taking Soundings in Kane Basin</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_252'>252</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Bringing the Bear to the Ship</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_255'>255</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Polar Bear Killed in Kane Basin</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_255'>255</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Ship Beached for Repairs at the Head of Etah Fiord</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_256'>256</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>View of the Stern</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_263'>263</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimo Houses at Kookan</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_264'>264</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Cape York, 76° North Latitude. Northern Limit of Melville Bay, and Most Southerly Settlement of the Whale Sound Eskimos</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_267'>267</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Hanging our New Rudder at Hopedale</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_268'>268</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Sawing Wood to Feed the Furnaces</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_268'>268</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Hulda, a Labrador Eskimo Girl at Nain</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_273'>273</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Hopedale. Moravian Missionary Station on the Labrador Coast</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_274'>274</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xx'>xx</span><span class='sc'>Ooblooyah, Young Eskimo Man of about Twenty-three</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_277'>277</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>A Group of Eskimo Women</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_278'>278</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Head of Rangifer Pearyi, Allen</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_347'>347</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Eskimos of the “Farthest North” Party</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_348'>348</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Captain Chas. B. Dix, Builder of the “Roosevelt”</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_357'>357</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The “Roosevelt” on Her Trial Trip, June, 1905</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_357'>357</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Peary Arctic Club’s S. S. “Roosevelt”</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_358'>358</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>A Study in Bronze; Typical Face of Eskimo Woman</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_367'>367</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Ahweahgoodloo, Four-year-old Eskimo Girl</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_368'>368</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Inuaho, Eskimo Girl</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_377'>377</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Akatingwah, Wife of Ooblooyah</span></td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_378'>378</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'><span class='sc'>Detail Map of the Polar Regions showing the routes and Explorations of Robert E. Peary, U. S. N. from 1892 to 1906; and General Map of the North Polar Regions</span></td> - <td class='c017'><span class='fss'><a href='#END'>END</a></span></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter ph1'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>NEAREST THE POLE</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER I<br /> <span class='large'>FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>When an expedition starts for distant and -mysterious regions for an uncertain length of -time, and particularly when its objective point is the -frozen heart of the Arctic Circle, it is natural that -those who know and are interested in its objects and -plans should turn with interest to its personnel and -its surroundings and environment while en route to the -scene of action.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The opening scenes of an Arctic voyage are comparatively -familiar to those conversant with Arctic -literature. The main features of the play are much the -same: A crowded and littered ship, regrets at leaving, -confusion, and, if the weather be decent, an effort to get -into shape, or, if the weather be bad, a surrender by most -of the party to abject misery in cramped quarters. In -the present instance, some of these features were entirely -absent, and others appeared only in a mild form.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Experience and a roomy ship almost completely -obviated the lumbering of the decks, beyond the inevitable -and inseparable feature of the coal, a portion -of which must at first always be carried on deck.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Such few things as were dumped on deck at the last -<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>moment, were quickly and readily disposed of; and -quarters specially arranged for the party and on deck, -insured fair room for each member of the expedition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As to regrets, no pronounced symptoms were noticeable -in the others, and I had made the voyage too often -to consider it more than a trip to Europe.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Under these favourable circumstances let us look at -the personnel of the party whose home for an uncertain -length of time, in the ice of the Polar Sea, was -to be the good ship <i>Roosevelt</i>. First the captain, -Robert A. Bartlett, sailing master and ice navigator, -who was 30 years of age, 5 feet 10½ inches -tall, and weighed 174 pounds. Bartlett is one of the -new generation of Bartletts, a hardy family of Newfoundland -sailors and navigators, almost all of whom -have been associated with Arctic work. A great -uncle was master of the <i>Tigress</i> when that ship picked -up the drifting floe party of the <i>Polaris</i> expedition; -two uncles, Samuel and John, were respectively -master and mate of the <i>Panther</i> in which Hayes and -Bradford visited Melville Bay; recently Captain Sam -was master of the Canadian Government steamer -<i>Neptune</i>, which wintered in Hudson Bay; and both of -these, as well as Harry, a younger uncle, had been -masters of my ships during one or the other of my several -voyages north. Robert was mate in the <i>Windward</i> -in the expedition of ’98 to ’99.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Blonde, smooth-shaven and close-cropped, stockily -built and clear-eyed, he had already been farther north -in these regions than any of the other Newfoundland -ice masters, and his youth, ambition, and the Bartlett -blood all counted in his favour.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>Moses Bartlett, mate, a second cousin of the captain, -was 47 years old, 6 feet high, and weighed 184 pounds. -He had already been as far north as Cape Sabine -three times; twice as mate of my ships and once -as mate of the <i>Neptune</i>, and had also spent a -year on this ship in Hudson Bay in the employ -of the Canadian Government. Weather-beaten, grizzled, -and keen of eye, he was regarded as one of the -best of the Newfoundland ice pilots.</p> - -<p class='c009'>George A. Wardwell, chief engineer, was a native -of Bucksport, Maine, 44 years of age, 5 feet 11 -inches tall, and weighed 240 pounds. Acting as -engineer in the shipyard in which the <i>Roosevelt</i> -was built and intimately employed in her construction, -he was deeply interested in her proposed work -and anxious to join the expedition. His phlegmatic -temperament, and evident capacity for work, combined -with non-use of liquor and tobacco, were all -strong points in his favour.</p> - -<p class='c009'>John Murphy, boatswain, was a native Newfoundlander, -31 years of age, 5 feet 11 inches tall, and -weighed 165 pounds. Sailor and fisherman from the -age of eighteen, he had also been as far north as -Cape Sabine on the <i>Neptune</i> and had wintered with -her in Hudson Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Murtaugh J. Malone, assistant engineer, was a -native of Portland, Maine, 49 years of age, 5 feet -7½ inches tall, and weighed 150 pounds.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Dr. Louie J. Wolf, surgeon of the Expedition, was -a native of Oregon, 30 years of age, 5 feet 9 inches -tall, weighed 150 pounds, was a graduate of the -Cooper Medical College, San Francisco, California, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>becoming later House Surgeon at St. Vincent’s Hospital, -Portland, Oregon, and still later Assistant Attending -Physician at the Cornell University Medical College, and -of the outdoor medical dispensary of Bellevue Hospital.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Ross G. Marvin, secretary and assistant, was a -native of Elmira, N. Y., a graduate of Cornell -University, 25 years of age, 6 feet tall, and weighed -160 pounds. Subsequently he had three years of naval -training on board the school ship <i>St. Mary’s</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Charles Percy, my steward, was a native of Newfoundland, -54 years of age, 5 feet 10 inches high, and -weighed 180 pounds. He had previously made a -summer voyage as far north as Cape Sabine in my -ship the <i>Diana</i> in 1899, and later had spent two -years with Mrs. Peary and myself at Cape Sabine, from -1900 to 1902. Subsequently he had been in my employ -as resident in charge of Eagle Island.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Matthew Henson, my personal attendant, was a -coloured native of the District of Columbia, 39 years of -age, 5 feet 6¾ inches high, and weighed 145 pounds. -In my employ in one capacity or another most of the -time since I took him to Nicaragua with me in 1888, -and a member of all of my Arctic expeditions, his quality -and capabilities were fully known.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The crew and firemen, with the exception of -one of the latter, Charles Clark, a native of Massachusetts, -were natives of Newfoundland, of the -usual type of sailors and sealers common to that island. -One of the firemen had been with me on the <i>Eagle</i> in -1886, and previously to that had been on one of -the whalers in search of the Greely party in 1883. -Another fireman had been north with me in the <i>Hope</i> -in 1898, and one of the sailors had made a voyage to -Hudson Bay.</p> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_007.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>DR. WOLF</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_007c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPT. BARTLETT</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_007b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>COMMANDER PEARY</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_007d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>STEWARD PERCY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_007e.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MR. MARVIN</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_008.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MATE BARTLETT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_008b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CHIEF ENGINEER WARDWELL</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_008c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MATTHEW HENSON</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_008d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>“BO’SUN” MURPHY</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_008e.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE SAILORS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_008f.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE FIREMEN</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>Next after the personnel of the Expedition comes -their environment. In the present case no member of -the party was quartered below deck. The after cabin -for officers, close down against the propeller post, and -the forecastle for the crew, down in the eyes of the ship -forward, to be found in all the old-fashioned ships, and -even in those recently built for Arctic work, were lacking -on the <i>Roosevelt</i>, and in their stead were light, roomy -accommodations on deck.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As to the furnishings of the rooms there was little to -be said. Beginning forward, it is well known that Jack, -particularly if a Newfoundland sealer, does not take -much bric-a-brac to sea with him, his outfit comprising -only his clothes and his bedding. There were therefore -no oil paintings or etchings on the walls of the forward -house. Two tiers of folding bunks, a stove, a table, -and the seamen’s chests for chairs, completed the list.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The furnishings of the after house were hardly less -simple.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the port saloon, which was lighted by two twelve-inch -ports on the side, and a window looking forward, -a leather-cushioned locker extended around three sides -of the room; and this, with an extension table screwed -to the floor, a clock, a little library presented to the -ship by the <span class='sc'>Seaman’s Friend Society</span>, and a brief -notice to the members of the Expedition, stating the -object of the Expedition, what was expected of the -members and what success would mean to them, -completed the furniture. Here the ship’s officers, -except the captain, messed.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>In the captain’s room, at the after end of the port -side of the deck house, was a folding berth, a washbasin, -a table and a camp chair, and these, with the -chronometer, a trunk, and several pictures and photos -on the walls, completed its furnishing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the after end of the starboard side of the deck -house was my own room. This room, owing to the -thoughtful care of Mrs. Peary and friends, was more -luxuriously furnished than any room occupied by me -on previous expeditions or than it would have been had -I furnished it myself.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The room (10 × 16) was also larger than I had -ever had on a previous expedition. The room -occupied by Mrs. Peary and myself at Redcliffe was -7 × 12 feet, and the one at Anniversary Lodge 8 × 18 feet. -But one of the most annoying circumstances of the long -Arctic winter is always the crowding of cramped -quarters, the inability to move without knocking -against something, the feeling of oppression. This, on -top of the contracted horizon and feeling of compression -from the protracted darkness, is at times -almost intolerable, and in planning the <i>Roosevelt</i> quarters -I felt that I was justified in giving myself a little -more room. Two ports and a window looking aft -lighted the room and, as in the captain’s room, a door -opened aft on to the quarter-deck, while another gave -me direct access to the engine room.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A berth, a table, and a chair, are of course essentials -and were present. Then came the <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">pièce de résistance</span></i>, -the beautiful pianola given me by my friend -H. H. Benedict. This, with a rack of nearly 150 music -rolls, popular operas, marches, waltzes and rag-time, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>was screwed to the deck at the forward end of the -room. Over it was a large framed portrait of the -founder of the Expedition, Morris K. Jesup, flanked on -either side by an etching of President Roosevelt and -a photo of Judge Darling, Assistant Secretary of the -Navy. In the forward corner was a stationary washstand, -and on the inboard wall a series of shelves containing -a small Arctic library, a few books of reference, -and a few standard works of fiction. A chest of -drawers, a cellarette, a table, a wicker easy chair from -Mr. Jesup, a warm brown rug from Mrs. Peary, pictures -of the home folks and home places, and Arctic maps -upon the walls completed the fittings, not including -a trunk and two chests of stores in the doctor’s -department, for which there was at present no room -below decks.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Wednesday, July 26th, ’05.</i>—All things come to an -end at last, even the starting of this Expedition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> got away from the Terminal Pier at -North Sydney at 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span><a id='r1'></a><a href='#f1' class='c019'><sup>[1]</sup></a> With the exception of the -quarter-deck, which is loaded with bags of coal, to keep -the ship from trimming too deep by the head, the -deck is not nearly so badly littered and cumbered as on -previous voyages.</p> - -<div class='footnote' id='f1'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. <span class='sc'>Note.</span>—The <i>Roosevelt</i> sailed from New York on July 16th, touched in -at Bar Harbour to receive Mr. Jesup’s “God-speed,” then loaded with coal -at Sydney, C. B.</p> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The cases of oil and a few miscellaneous casks are -practically all that is not below hatches. We have on -board something over 500 tons of coal, besides our -supplies and equipment. In capacity, the <i>Roosevelt</i> -comes fully up to my expectations. There is a quarter -<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>of beef in the rigging, two or three sheep among the -coal bags aft, and a tank and several casks of water on -deck, besides the full tanks below.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Once under way, I hope to make no stops this side of -Cape York. It is already late in the season and -every day now is precious.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Percy, the steward, has purchased two small porkers, -“Dennis” and “Mike,” which are running contentedly -about the deck, and if they escape the dogs, which is -very doubtful, they may furnish us roast pork for -our Christmas dinner.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Outside the harbour a little swell caused by the -easterly breeze taking the ship broadside on, sets her -rolling a bit until she straightens out on her course to -pass St. Paul’s light.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next thing in order was the stowing of the -miscellaneous packages which during the past days -have been put in the various rooms, particularly my -room, to prevent their getting mixed up with the provisions -in the hold. This was readily accomplished by -supper time, at least to the extent of permitting a -passage through the room and allowing access to the -bunk, the table, and a camp chair.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Immediately after supper we ran into dense fog and are -now ploughing our way through it across Cabot Strait, -the southern gateway of the Gulf, blowing our whistle -as if we were in Long Island Sound, for we are crossing -the track of the inward- and outward-bound traffic.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Thursday, July 27th.</i>—Heavy thunderstorms last -night with electrical accompaniments as vivid as -those of Gulf storms on the southern voyages.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span> -<img src='images/i_013.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>PIANOLA PRESENTED BY H. H. BENEDICT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_013b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>BOOKCASE AND WRITING TABLE<br /><br />INTERIOR OF PEARY’S CABIN ABOARD THE “ROOSEVELT”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span> -<img src='images/i_014.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>A MELVILLE BAY ICEBERG</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_014b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>TYPICAL WHALE SOUND GLACIER</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>Passed Cape Anguille on the Newfoundland coast -at breakfast time, and Red Island and the bold cliffs -of Cape St. George after noon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Soon after dinner an alarm of fire was caused by the -catching of one of the main deck beams over the uptake -from the boilers. A stream from one of the fire -hose which was coupled on in readiness and needed but -the opening of a valve to turn the water on, quickly -extinguished the fire, which was apparently caused -by the more gaseous nature of the Sydney coal, and -the combustion and heat in the stack instead of in the -boiler. It was then discovered that several sections of -the water-tube boilers were leaking, and the fires were -immediately drawn to let the boilers cool for examination; -the <i>Roosevelt</i> steaming along under the Scotch -boiler only.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The process of stowage both about the decks and in -the rooms has continued to-day, and most of the oil has -been put down in the forepeak. A fine day, though -with occasional showers, and the <i>Roosevelt</i> as steady as -if steaming up the North River.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Friday, July 28th.</i>—Continuance of the fine weather, -running under Scotch boiler only all night and day. -The engineers working on the Almys. The Chief to-night -fears the damage is more serious than at first -anticipated. At intervals during the day I have been -comparing the readings of the log with the revolutions -of the engines at varying speeds; with results fully up -to my expectation. Another incipient fire in the -same place was immediately extinguished, and I have -had portions of the beams cut away and other means -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>taken to prevent a recurrence. At supper time we -passed four or five small bergs which had come -through the straits. Fine weather, with smooth sea -till evening, when the fog shut down on us. -Just before this, two large steamers passed us -heading for the straits, and one hung out the signal, -“Wish you a pleasant voyage,” to which we -replied, “Good-bye.” It is light now till 9 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, and -it seems good to be again approaching the Arctic -day.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Saturday, July 29th.</i>—A dirty night. In the dense -fog, which filled the Belle Isle graveyard of ships, -Point Amour Light was invisible, until apparently -hanging over our mast head, and then it was a -matter of feeling our way from fog horn to fog horn -through the Straits. We could hear two or three large -steamers that were laying to, blowing their double -blasts; and numbers of bergs added to the uncertainty -and anxiety of the passage.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Captain Bartlett and myself up all night. At breakfast -time just north of Chateau Bay we ran out of -the wall of fog into bright sunshine, and a field of -beautiful icebergs. Cape York is 1500 miles from here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Running northward all day, just off the Labrador -coast, in alternate fog and sunshine. Have written -two or three brief personal letters which we shall -leave at Domino Run to-night, before heading across -Davis Strait for Greenland. This is necessitated by -the fog having shut us out of Chateau Bay and Battle -Harbour, from which place our passing may have been -reported to the home folks.</p> - -<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span><i>Sunday, July 30th.</i>—Ran into Domino Run late -last night without dropping anchor, and Captain Bartlett -pulled ashore with the letters, coming off again -at once. He learned that the ice was against the -coast as far down as Cape Harrigan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Going into the Run it was clear as a bell, and while -lying to, waiting for the Captain’s return, the stars -twinkled as in winter, a biting wind whistled through -the rigging, and a brilliant curtain aurora waved -across the northern sky, while ashore the dogs were -howling merrily.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Pacing the bridge, these familiar sights and sounds -stirred me with the call of the polar mystery. Might -it not be possible that this breath, this presence, as -it were, of the land of the “Great Night” was -reaching down far beyond its usual haunts to greet -and welcome my coming?</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we steamed out, less than an hour after our -arrival, the fog had settled down again, and the temporary -jamming of the rudder chains while negotiating -the narrow channel, caused a slight flurry, but -resulted in nothing serious.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Clear of the harbour, our course was set N. E. by E. -to bring us to the Greenland coast, well up Davis’ -Strait. Dense fog all night and to-day, with very -smooth sea. Several narrow shaves from icebergs -during the night, but this morning we were in deep -water, and clear of them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A light breeze from the southeast, just enough to -fill our headsails, foresail, spanker and balloon staysails, -but with no push to it. There will be no more -sailing lights for us, side or masthead or stern. We are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>beyond the world’s highways now, and shall see no -sail or smoke except our own, until we return.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Monday, July 31st.</i>—To-day the fog has cleared -away a bit. The sea still very smooth, not even a -swell. A very perceptible twilight throughout the -night. To-night there will be no night. We are in -the border land of the region of the “Great Day.”</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Tuesday, August 1st.</i>—Continuance of fine weather -and listless sea. At noon we are in the latitude of -Cape Farewell and Cape Chidley, and about midway -between them. A Brunnich’s guillemot passed us -flying south, and at 6 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> a small berg was visible -a little west of our course.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At supper time Chief Wardwell, who has been working -over the Almy boilers for the past four days, hands -me a report that makes matters look gloomy. I am -seriously disturbed and perplexed. Have ordered -a complete overhauling and pressure test of the -boilers.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Wednesday, Aug. 2d.</i>—Another day of listless sea, -and opening and clearing fog, with slowly rising -barometer. Two bergs passed during the forenoon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Am feeling physically something like myself again. -I did not realise until we were actually off, and the -relaxation came, how nearly fagged out I was with -the incessant work, and the last two weeks of intolerable -heat in New York. Were it not for our boilers -I should feel very content.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the afternoon a “bo’sun” bird, and numbers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>of kittiwakes were flying about the ship, and several -guillemots in the water dove to let us pass.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Thursday, Aug. 3d.</i>—A foggy night and cold. This -morning the sun shining through a low-lying fog, and -a light, but particularly penetrating easterly breeze, -the breath of the East Greenland ice inshore of us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The noon sights showed us a little south of Sukkertoppen, -and at 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> an opening in the fog showed -us the Sukkertoppen Islands on the starboard bow. -We are past the East Coast ice without seeing a cake -of it. Since supper dense fog.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Friday, Aug. 4th.</i>—Thick fog all night until about -6:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span>, when it began to lift, showing us the bold -Greenland Mountains, near Holsteinburg. Not a piece -of ice inshore or a berg in sight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We crossed the Arctic Circle at two o’clock this morning, -and Percy, the steward, asserts that the bump when -the ship went over it, woke him up!!</p> - -<p class='c009'>In regard to smoothness of sea, peacefulness of -weather, entire absence of ice, and scarcity of bergs, -the voyage from Sydney to the Arctic Circle has been -most unusual even for this season of the year. With -the exception of the few rolls just outside of Sydney -Harbour, there has not been enough motion of the -ship to spill a glass of water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The noon sights give us 67° 37′ north latitude. -The water, like glass, and the cliffs of Disco -visible 95 miles away. In 68° we passed through -a fleet of twenty-seven bergs, the output of the -Disco Bay glaciers. During the afternoon a few -<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>walrus and two whales were seen. The day has been -one of typical Disco Bay summer weather.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Saturday, Aug. 5th.</i>—A perfect Arctic summer night, -clear and brilliant. At two this morning we passed -Godhavn, the little place lying under the southward-facing -cliffs of Disco, which is the capital of the northern -inspectorate of Greenland. Here, nineteen years ago, -I got my first taste of Arctic life, and made plans and -indulged in dreams some of which have since -materialised and others may. Several times since -then I have anchored in the harbour, till I know -the little settlement as I do the streets of Washington.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Though we are now over three degrees beyond the -Arctic Circle, I am sitting in my cabin, with window -and ports open, in my shirt sleeves, wearing clothing -I wore in New York before I left, writing in entire -comfort.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Later, a light breeze from the westward, keen after -its passage over the middle pack, makes the blue -waters look like frosted steel, and sharpens the western -cliffs of Disco, along which we are steaming, into -almost startling clearness.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At noon we are off Hare Island and passing through -a fleet of large bergs, the output of the Tossuketek -glacier, which I visited in 1886, through the Waigatt. -We are ten days from Sydney to the Waigatt.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Sunday, Aug. 6th.</i>—An hour or two of fog at midnight, -then overcast, with a light following breeze, -barely enough to fill the sails at first, then freshens -from southwest and brings up a sea which would give -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>the <i>Roosevelt</i> considerable motion were it not for the -sails which hold her almost as steady as a rock.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Occasionally the top of a wave slaps over the port -rail, but not enough to do any harm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The base of Sanderson’s Hope seen and named -by John Davis 300 years ago, was visible under the -fog in the early morning. Our noon sights gave -us 73° 17′ north latitude, and at 6 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> we passed -the Duck Islands on our starboard beam, near -enough to see with the glasses, the old whaler’s lookout -on the summit.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sea and fresh breeze continued all the evening, -and there is evidently very dirty weather to the south -of us. No sign of ice yet.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Monday, Aug. 7th.</i>—We ran away from the wind -during the night. Cape York was visible at 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> -and at 7 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> we ran past the point of it for the Eskimo -settlement beyond. The run across Melville Bay had -been made in twenty-five hours. No ice or ice sky -was seen, and there is evidently no ice in the bay this -year.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Going ashore, I found four tents at the village, -and learned that some fifteen families are located to -the eastward, at Meteorite Island, and other places. -Among them are some of my best men.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Told the natives to get their things ready to come -on board on my return, and going off to the ship -steamed eastward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Stopped off the first settlement and, without dropping -anchor, shouted to the men to get ready to move.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then on to Meteorite Island, where I found four -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>tents and learned that four other families were still -farther east in the bay. These I shall not see, as I -cannot take the time to go so far out of my way. At -Meteorite Island are three of my old men, and, in an -hour or two, they are all on board with their -belongings, and we steam away, leaving the place -deserted. Back to the next settlement and the operation -is repeated. Six families move all their belongings -on board and desert their village in about three hours.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Tuesday, Aug. 8th.</i>—It was after breakfast when we -finished at the last settlement, and I lay down for a short -nap while crossing Cape York Bay, having been up -all night.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again at Cape York the tents were quickly struck -and, with all their belongings, the new men came on -board.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> we steamed around the Cape, and headed -north to join the <i>Erik</i> at North Star Bay.<a id='r2'></a><a href='#f2' class='c019'><sup>[2]</sup></a> While -passing Petowik Glacier a steamer was seen to the -westward steaming south. The glasses showed her -to be small and schooner-rigged.</p> - -<div class='footnote' id='f2'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. <span class='sc'>Note.</span>—The <i>Erik</i> was the auxiliary, steam whaler chartered by the -Peary Arctic Club to go north as a collier, replenish the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> coal -supply at Etah and deposit there a depot of coal for the <i>Roosevelt</i> on her -return voyage.</p> -</div> - -<p class='c008'><i>Wednesday, Aug. 9th.</i>—On arriving at North Star -Bay this morning at 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span>, learned from the <i>Erik</i> -that the steamer we saw was the Danish steamship -<i>Fox</i>, here for the purpose of selecting a site for a -settlement. The <i>Erik</i> came alongside and I transferred -to her with Marvin and “Matt,” to make a round -of the settlements to the north, and to hunt walrus, -while the <i>Roosevelt</i> goes direct to Etah to overhaul -machinery and prepare for the ice.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span> -<img src='images/i_023.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>OOMUNUI<br /><br />The peculiar peak at the entrance of the North Star Bay, Wolstenholm Sound</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span> -<img src='images/i_024.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>COALING AT ETAH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_024b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>TRANSFERRING WALRUS MEAT AT ETAH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>The <i>Erik</i> got underway soon after, and made the -circuit of Wolstenholm Sound, looking for walrus, -but without success. There is no ice for them to bask -upon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the Saunders Island bird cliffs we then put in -two or three hours shooting, securing 130 birds, and -returned to North Star Bay. Here, the natives that -I wanted were taken on board, and some thirty additional -dogs purchased. Before midnight we steamed -north for Whale Sound.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next morning we were rounding magnificent -Cape Parry, into Whale Sound, and steamed eastward -along the southern shore to Ittibloo, where I expected -to find more of my people. None were there, however, -and the <i>Erik</i> turned northward across the Sound to -Karnah, where I felt certain to find someone. Six -tents were located here beside the brawling summer -river, and the men were all away at Cape Cleveland, -hunting walrus with one of the whaleboats which I -had given them three years before. From the women, -I learned that about ten families were up the gulf at -Kangerdlooksoah and that vicinity. Telling the natives -here, as at the other places, to get their things -in readiness to come on board when the ship returned, -we steamed eastward into Inglefield Gulf. No ice -was to be seen here, but there was a most unusual -profusion of bergs from the great Heilprin and Melville -Glaciers at the head of the Gulf. At times it -looked as if there were no thoroughfare among the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>bergs, but a closer approach in every case showed -winding passages among them, and off Kangerdlooksoah -there were comparatively few.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here, where I had left my faithful people three years -before, I found now six tents, the occupants of all but -one of them young and active men. The number of -dogs, and the goodly supply of skins which these people -have, made the process of moving a little slower than -at some of the other places, but everybody and everything -was finally on board, leaving the place, which -a few hours before had been enlivened by the voices -of children and the barking of dogs, deserted. From -Kangerdlooksoah we steamed north across the head -of the Gulf to Harvard Islands, on the northernmost -of which were four tents. These, like the others, -were embarked as soon as possible, and at half-past -two the morning of the 11th, the <i>Erik</i> was ready to -steam down the Gulf again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The scene and the surroundings during this typical -Arctic summer night were such as to be long remembered. -The surface of the Gulf like a placid mirror, -thickly dotted in every direction with fragments of -ice and icebergs, of all sizes and shapes, and flanked -on the east and north by the gigantic amphitheatre -of the Heilprin, Tracy, and Melville Glaciers rising -to the steel-blue slopes of the “great ice,” while northwest -and west rose the warm red-brown bluffs of -Mounts Daly and Adams, and Josephine Peary Island, -and to the south the rolling slopes of the Kangerdlooksoah -deer pastures. During the remainder of the -night we steamed down the Gulf, and in the forenoon -we were on the walrus grounds between Herbert -Island and the north shore of the Sound.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span> -<img src='images/i_027.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE AUXILIARY S. S. “ERIK” IN THE HARBOUR OF ETAH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span> -<img src='images/i_028.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE BARRIER AT CAPE COLLINSON</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>Up to this time, the weather, since arriving at Cape -York, has been an uninterrupted sequence of calm -and continuous sunlight—typical Arctic summer -weather. Now, however, wind and fog have their -turn, and render it impossible to secure walrus, wasting -the day for us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the evening we steamed back to Karnah, to take -on board the natives there, and be in readiness to attempt -the walrus again the following day. By midnight -this work was completed, and as everyone was -now dead-tired and sleepy, the <i>Erik</i> steamed out into -the middle of the Sound to drift until after breakfast -of the following day, when we again steamed out to -the walrus grounds and by nine o’clock that night -had secured eighteen of the animals. Fog and rain -were now coming in upon us, and we steamed into the -last settlement on our list, Igludiahni, where six tupiks -were found. Our stay here was short as I wanted -but one family here, and it did not take me long to -purchase a number of additional dogs. When the -last dog was on board the <i>Erik</i>, she headed for Cape -Chalon on her way to rejoin the <i>Roosevelt</i> at Etah, -where she arrived at breakfast time Sunday, the 13th. -The <i>Roosevelt</i> had landed her coal in bags and broken -out the supplies for the purpose of restowing to give -her the proper trim to enter the ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It being Sunday, everyone enjoyed a much needed -rest, except the Eskimos, to whom the work of skinning -and cutting up the walrus was a labour of love and -pleasure.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early Monday morning the <i>Erik</i> veered alongside -the <i>Roosevelt</i> and, at five o’clock, the work of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>transferring the meat, of restowing the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> -supplies, and of filling her bunkers and ’tween-deck -space with coal from the <i>Erik</i>, was commenced. This -continued during Monday, Tuesday, and till Wednesday -at 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> when the <i>Roosevelt</i> was ready to steam out and -begin the struggle for which she was built, the fight -with the Arctic ice from Cape Sabine to the northern -shore of Grant Land. Thus far the voyage had been -child’s play: what was now before her was likely to be -the reverse.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> now had on board of her a crew of -twenty, some forty Eskimos, and about 200 dogs. -She also carried, in addition to the supplies and equipment -for the party, about four hundred and fifty tons -of coal and several tons of walrus meat.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had been agreeably surprised to find the natives -in unusually prosperous condition, with a superfluity -of dogs, abundance of meat, and a good supply -of skins for clothing. Several of my old friends and -acquaintances had died during the last three years, -but there were also a number of new babies and, -although I did not have time for anything in the -nature of a census, I had no doubt that the births -equalled and probably exceeded the number of deaths.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER II<br /> <span class='large'>ETAH TO CAPE SHERIDAN</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>Leaving Etah soon after midnight of August 16th, -the <i>Roosevelt</i> swung out from the harbour of Etah -and severed all communication with the civilised -world. Below decks the ship was filled with coal until -her plank sheer was nearly to the water; on deck were -more than two hundred Eskimo dogs; and on the topgallant -forecastle, and the tops of both forward and -after deck-houses were over half a hundred Eskimos, -men, women and children, and their belongings.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The heavy pack ice surging down Smith Sound, past -Littleton Island, gave me an opportunity to see what -good work the ship could do and as we bored through -it toward Cape Sabine, she realised my expectations -in regard to her, even though very deeply loaded -and her boiler power reduced to one-half. The sharply -raking stem was a revelation even to me, though it -was my idea. Deep and heavy as the ship was, -she rose on the opposing ice without pronounced -shock, no matter how viciously she was driven at it, -and either split it with the impact, or wedged it aside -by sheer weight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Bartlett obeyed my first orders, to give her full -speed and I would be responsible, with some misgivings. -The sealing captains are always very cautious -with their ships when first going out heavy with coal.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>At the end of an hour or two he was enthusiastic, -both at the ease with which the most crushing blows -could be delivered, and the whaleboat-like facility -with which the ship wheeled and twisted through -the tortuous passages.</p> - -<p class='c009'>But there were some areas of ancient ice which a -thousand <i>Roosevelts</i> merged in one could not have -negotiated, and we were soon deflected to the southwest, -and only when within some ten miles of Cape -Isabella did we find it practicable to work northward -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cape Sabine and Payer Harbour, which had been my -headquarters for sixteen months in 1901–1902, were -densely packed, permitting no near approach, and -we bored away to the northeast, till the ice became -impracticable for further advance, then retraced our -route, and worked towards Bache Peninsula, getting -about half-way across Buchanan Bay when we were -stopped by large floes barring our passage to open -water under Cape Albert. The ice later appearing -more favourable to the eastward, we retraced a portion -of our route and I very carefully reconnoitred -Sabine and Payer Harbour again as I was loath to give -up my sub-base there, this being part of my programme -as outlined to the Club. But the conditions were -entirely impossible, and making a detour to the east, -the <i>Roosevelt</i> gained the open water at Bache Peninsula, -and steaming to the bight south of Victoria Head, -the northwestern headland of the peninsula, landed a -depot of boats, coal, and provisions.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The value of this locality for the southern sub-base -of an expedition going north by the Smith Sound or -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>“American” route was immediately apparent to me -in 1898, and in any future work it should be given -preference over Payer Harbour. Its advantages are -contiguity to a valuable game region, accessibility -during any month in the year, and its less changeable -and boisterous climate.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The work of landing the depot occupied about ten -hours of the 18th, and while the work was in progress -I went away with three Eskimos to a neighbouring -valley which I knew, and secured three musk-oxen, -a large bull, a cow, and a yearling, the latter being -brought aboard alive. This animal was of the greatest -interest to the crew and the “tenderfoot” members -of the expedition, and the arrival of nearly eight -hundred pounds of fine fresh beef created a very agreeable -impression on everyone.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Up to this time the rush of getting on board my -Eskimos and dogs, restowing the ship and fighting -the ice, had left me no time for a thought beyond the -demands of each hour. Now as I trod the moss -patches beside the murmuring stream whose quieter -reaches were crusted with ice, saw the fresh tracks of -big game and a little later the shaggy black bulks of -the musk-oxen with heads lowered and hoofs stamping, -in the way I knew so well, my pulses bounded rapidly -and I felt that I had come into my own again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Bache Peninsula we steamed for Hayes Point -through scattered ice, with the heavy pack close -on the starboard hand. Conditions were different -from those of 1898, when the <i>Windward</i> was five days -crossing the mouth of Princess Marie Bay. The night -was fine and I could make out every well-known rock -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>along the Cape D’Urville shore where the <i>Windward</i> -wintered in ’98–’99. Looking into the distant depths -of Princess Marie Bay, numerous episodes with bear -and seals and musk-oxen crowded upon me. We -experienced some trouble with ice near Hayes Point -and Cape Frasier, and finally dodged into Maury Bay -and anchored at noon of the 19th, to escape the -large fields of very heavy ice which were moving -rapidly southward before a fresh northerly wind, -crashing with savage fury against the iron bastion -of Cape John Sparrow under which we lay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Vigilantly watching the ice and taking advantage -of every opportunity, we squeezed and hammered -our way into Scoresby Bay, hugging the shore closely, -and thence to Richardson Bay. Twice we nearly -reached Cape Joseph Goode only to be forced back -by the oncoming floes to a shelter under Cape Wilkes, -close to my “Christmas” igloos of 1898, where on that -unfortunate midwinter journey to Fort Conger, during -which I froze both my feet, I had spent Christmas and -opened a small box from loved ones at home.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Rawlings Bay was packed and the ice along the -Grinnell Land shore apparently unbroken. On the -Greenland side it appeared less dense. During this -time the weather was fine.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The aspect of the ice was so extremely unfavourable, -northward on the Grinnell Land side, that I determined -to test my belief gained in my last four years -of work in this region, that the Greenland side of -Kennedy and Robeson Channels offered as a rule more -favourable opportunities for navigation than the -Grinnell Land side.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span> -<img src='images/i_037.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ENTERING THE SMITH SOUND ICE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_037b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>OPEN WATER OFF CAPE LUPTON</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span> -<img src='images/i_038.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE SQUEEZE NEAR “THE GAP”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>Firm in my confidence in the capabilities of the -<i>Roosevelt</i> and against all the so-called canons of Arctic -navigation in this region, she was headed eastward in -the afternoon of the 21st and driven into the thick of -the channel pack. The ice encountered was very large -and heavy, and its southward drift inevitably swept -us down; still we made fair progress eastward and -after a severe and protracted struggle, during which -Bartlett and the mate remained continuously in the -fore rigging and I in the main rigging, we broke out -into loose ice off Cape Calhoun and began boring -northward towards Crozier and Franklin Islands. -The channel between Franklin Island and Cape -Constitution was attempted and found impracticable. -The main channel pack was then negotiated close -under the vertical western cliffs of Franklin Island. -We then had fairly good going, interrupted by barriers -of heavy but rather loose ice to Joe Island.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Stopped here by an impervious jam, the <i>Roosevelt</i> -was made fast to the ice-foot which along the southern -end of the island is of most stupendous character, -and accompanied by Captain Bartlett I climbed to the -summit of the island, from whence we saw the eastern -portion of Hall Basin clear of ice to Cape Lupton -and apparently to Cape Sumner. The western portion -of the basin and as far as we could see north and south -along the Grinnell Land coast was densely packed -with heavy ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the turn of the tide the tension in the channel -pack along the western shore of the island relaxed -somewhat, and hurrying back to the <i>Roosevelt</i>, a few -hours of severe work forced the barrier, and in the teeth -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>of a strong and bitterly cold north wind which kicked -up a very respectable sea and sent the spray flying -over our bows, we steamed to Cape Lupton, reaching -it at midnight of the 22d. While steaming through -this open water we passed Thank God Harbour, the -winter quarters of Hall’s <i>Polaris</i> on our right and -Discovery Harbour, the winter quarters of the <i>Discovery</i>, -and site of Fort Conger, on our left.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A few miles north of Cape Lupton, while smashing -through a narrow tongue of ice, a sudden swirl of the -current which at times runs like a mill-race in this -deep channel, swept the ice together in a way that I -can only liken to the sudden scurry of fallen leaves -before an autumn breeze, pinched the <i>Roosevelt</i> between -the big cakes, and smashing her against the -ice-foot, ground her along its vertical face with a -motion and noise like that of a railway car which has -left the rails and is bumping along over the ties. -Very fortunately for us she scraped into a shallow -niche in the ice-wall, and was hastily secured with -every available line.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The entire flurry lasted less than five minutes, but -in that time the steering gear was almost disabled. -The back of the rudder was twisted on the stock, the -heavy iron head-bands and fittings broken, and the -steel tiller rods snapped. Temporary repairs were -effected, and as soon as the pressure relaxed we steamed -on around Cape Sumner and tied up to the fast ice -in Newman Bay under Cape Brevoort, to repair our -damaged steering gear and await the opening of a -lead across Robeson Channel to Cape Union or vicinity.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span> -<img src='images/i_041.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>BRINGING OFF THE “POLARIS” BOAT FROM BOAT CAMP, NEWMAN BAY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span> -<img src='images/i_042.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE SUMNER, GREENLAND</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_042b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>BIRTHDAY CAPE, WRANGEL BAY, GRINNELL LAND</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>The winter’s ice was still intact in the bay, its -surface level and granular, and the pools of water upon -it covered with ice strong enough to support a man’s -weight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As soon as the lines were secured I walked ashore -and climbed to the summit of Cape Brevoort. The -crest of the northward-facing cliffs commanded the -entire northern approaches to Robeson Channel, from -Repulse Harbour across to Cape Rawson and southward -along the Grinnell Land coast to Lady Franklin -Bay. The Greenland coast south of Sumner was -hidden by the cliffs of that cape. The ice all along -the Grinnell Land coast, and in the centre of the -channel, and to the northward as far as I could see, -was densely packed. The water in which we had -come north still remained open and the <i>Roosevelt</i> -could have worked her way close to the shore along -the Greenland coast to Repulse Harbour and possibly -to Cape Bryant, had my objective point been in that -direction. No indication of lead or crack across the -channel was to be seen. While on the summit a school -of narwhal came sporting down the shore close to the -ice-foot below us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In Newman Bay we remained five days mending -the rudder, replacing the tiller chains with wire cables, -and crossing to the south side of the bay, where I took on -board the <i>Polaris</i> boat left here by Chester and Tyson of -Hall’s party in 1871, at Boat Camp. Then as the -northern ice filled into the bay, we were gradually -crowded out of our shelter behind Boat Camp delta, -and tide by tide forced out to Cape Sumner, sometimes -grazing the shore as we dodged a floe. During this -time the Bay filled completely with ice and the entire -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>northern part of the channel was packed solid. Captain -Bartlett and Marvin made several trips to the -top of Cape Sumner to reconnoitre the channel but -without satisfactory results.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The turn of the tide the morning of the 28th set us -out again, and, impatient of the delay, and encouraged -by the behaviour of the <i>Roosevelt</i> in crossing the -channel at Cape Calhoun, fires were cleaned, machinery -thoroughly inspected, and at 4:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> the <i>Roosevelt</i> -was driven out for another contest with the channel -pack in which at the time no pool or lane of water was -visible.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Just off the point of Sumner a brief nip between -two big blue floes which the swift current was swinging -past the Cape, set the <i>Roosevelt</i> vibrating like a violin -string for a minute or so before she rose to the -pressure.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From this we pushed out and began the attempt -to cross to the west side, through ice almost continuously -up to our plank sheer and frequently of such -height that the boats swinging from the deck house -davits had to be swung inboard to clear the pinnacles. -The delay and inaction of the past five days had -become unendurable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> fought like a gladiator, turning, twisting, -straining with all her force, smashing her full weight -against the heavy floes whenever we could get room -for a rush, and rearing upon them like a steeplechaser -taking a fence. Ah, the thrill and tension of -it, the lust of battle, which crowded days of ordinary -life into one.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The forward rush, the gathering speed and momentum, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>the crash, the upward heave, the grating snarl -of the ice as the steel-shod stem split it as a mason’s -hammer splits granite, or trod it under, or sent it -right and left in whirling fragments, followed by the -violent roll, the backward rebound, and then the -gathering for another rush, were glorious.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At other times, the blue face of a big floe as high -as the plank sheer grinding against either side, -and the ship inching her way through, her frames -creaking with the pressure, the big engines down -aft running like sewing-machines, and the twelve-inch -steel shaft whirling the wide-bladed propeller, -till its impulse was no more to be denied than the -force of gravity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At such times everyone on deck hung with breathless -interest on our movement, and as Bartlett and -I clung in the rigging I heard him whisper through -teeth clinched from the purely physical tension of -the throbbing ship under us: “Give it to ’em, -Teddy, give it to ’em!”</p> - -<p class='c009'>More than once did a fireman come panting on deck -for a breath of air, look over the side, mutter to himself, -“By G— she’s got to go through!” then drop into -the stoke-hole, with the result a moment later of an -extra belch of black smoke from the stack, and an -added turn or two to the propeller.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At midnight all that could be said was that we -were nearer the west side than the east, and steadily -drifting southward with the pack. I quote from my -journal: “Slow and heart-breaking work. The <i>Roosevelt</i> -is a splendid ice-fighter and if she had her full -boiler power she would be irresistible. The ice is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>very heavy, in large floes, some of them several -miles in diameter and their edges sheer walls of -blue adamant. I shall be glad when we are through.” -In one of her charges the <i>Roosevelt</i> left a considerable -piece of the stem just under the figurehead -as a souvenir upon the top of a berg-piece -which she was obliged to butt out of her path. -In another, a blue floe twelve to fifteen feet in -thickness was split fairly in two.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Until 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 29th we continued slowly to -near the Grinnell Land side. Then but little progress -was made for several hours, then another start which -was kept up with occasional interruptions until 4 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, -when after thirty-five and one-half hours of incessant -strain and struggle, we drove out into a small pool of -water under the northern point of Wrangel Bay. -The battle had been won by sheer brute insistence -and I do not believe there is another ship afloat -that would have survived the ordeal.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Bartlett and I went to our rooms, worn with the -long tension, and I fell asleep instantly.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was the second birthday of a man-child in the -distant home, and in my dreams I saw the round -face with its blue eyes and crown of yellow hair, -smiling at me from the savage mass of black clouds -which shrouded the summit of the cape under which -we lay. God bless you, little man.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Soon after getting into Wrangel Bay, and while -I was asleep, a piece of heavy ice whirling under the -stern twisted the back nearly off the rudder, and the -entire night was occupied in temporarily repairing -the damage. A hunting party of Eskimos sent out -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>during the night returned the forenoon of the 30th -with eleven hares and six musk-oxen. Late in the -afternoon an unsuccessful attempt was made to reach -Lincoln Bay, from which we were driven back by -heavy floes moving southward, and at midnight we -were again in Wrangel Bay dodging about to keep -clear of the shifting ice, while past the capes the big -floes were going south with almost race-horse velocity, -the channel and summits of all the land dark with fog. -The 31st was spent in the bay keeping clear of the -floes which swung into and around it, the night thick -with falling snow. Made an early start at 3:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> -September 1st, in fog and a blinding snowstorm, and -steamed to the north side of Lincoln Bay, where the -unbroken pack again barred our passage and we -moored to the exposed face of the ice-foot.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again I quote from my journal: “A wild morning -with snow driving in horizontal sheets across -the deck, the water like ink, the ice ghastly white, -and the land invisible except close to us as we -almost scrape against it on the port side. Summer -is at an end and winter has commenced.” Scarcely -had we made fast to the ice-foot when the ice filled -the bay completely.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the ebb-tide at night much of the ice inside -of us passed out, grazing against our side, but no lead -formed at the Cape and no opportunity occurred to -get north.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the turn of the flood, the ice came in again -with a rush, and the corner of a large floe caught the -stern, bent the back of the rudder over to the other side -and forced the ship bodily ashore. Here she hung -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>until high-water, with a heavy berg-piece pressing -against her stern and threatening momentarily to -press her up the shore beyond possibility of floating -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Almost unmanageable with her twisted rudder, it -was a slow and difficult job to work her through the -running ice farther up the bay to a supposedly less-exposed -berth, snowing and blowing all this time. -Here the back of the rudder was straightened somewhat.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early in the morning of the 3d, a moving floe forced -the <i>Roosevelt</i> ashore again, where she hung until the -next high-water, and she was hardly pulled off when -another floe jammed her hard and fast aground again. -I was very anxious to get out of this dangerous and -trying position, where the rapid and vicious movements -of the ice were a constant menace, but a -reconnoissance from an elevation near the <i>Roosevelt</i> -indicated that the channel north of us was simply -solid with ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Shortly after midnight of the 3d, the <i>Roosevelt</i> -floated again and, a southerly breeze forming a little -water at the mouth of the bay, we steamed out at -3:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> and succeeded in getting under the delta -of Shelter River just south of Cape Union, and in -butting into a natural dock among some stranded -berg-pieces. Here the ship had one foot of water under -her keel and as we moored her, the slack ice through -which we had come jammed tight with floes packing -against the barrier at Cape Union. Here we enjoyed -a fine day with the temperature in the low twenties -and experienced a few hours of peace. The river -delta to the north and stranded berg-pieces to the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>south protected us from the attacks of the heavy -floes passing rapidly a few yards outside of us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Eskimos sent out for hare here obtained thirty-six. -We were now only some fifteen miles from the <i>Alert’s</i> -winter quarters, and a clear run of two or three hours -would enable us to beat the record for ships in this -region, and save the game for us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The 5th of September was a memorable day, one -that practically ended my fears and anxieties. At -3:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> we got under way after about an hour’s -backing and butting to get out of our niche. A -narrow strip of water close inshore showed as far -as Cape Union where a narrow but apparently -dense barrier pressed against the Cape. Would it -let us through? As we neared the barrier it was -evidently only about a mile wide, with water beyond -it extending to Cape Rawson. I kept both -watches of firemen on, and routed out the chief engineer -ahead of his watch, because it was evident that -we must get through <i>now</i>. In a few minutes the -<i>Roosevelt</i> was in the thick of it, throbbing like a motor, -the black smoke pouring from her stack, and successfully -forced her way through. Cape Union was passed -at 4:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> South of Rawson the ice ran close in -against the shore but was looser outside, and we made -a wide detour to the northeast, the captain, the mate, -and myself in the rigging. The ice was in large, -heavy floes and in rapid motion swinging into the -mouth of the channel on the flood-tide. The anxious -moments were numerous both as to whether we should -get through, and also as to whether we should escape -a serious nip.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>Soon we opened up the <i>Alert’s</i> cairn at Floeberg -Beach and could see a narrow canal of water extending -close to the ice-foot, and at 7 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> the -<i>Roosevelt</i>, racing with the incoming pack, was driven -through a narrow stream of ice and fairly hurled -into a niche in the face of the ice-foot under -the extremity of Cape Sheridan and made fast. The -ice was packed heavily against the point of the -cape and grinding past it. Before our lines were -made fast the ice had closed in upon us and the open -water behind us was rapidly disappearing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We were now about two miles beyond the <i>Alert’s</i> -position, moored to the exposed face of the ice-foot, -with the nose of the <i>Roosevelt</i> pointing almost true -north. I felt now that the risks, the chances of the -voyage were past. The ship might be lost by being -forced ashore, for our position was an extremely -exposed one, but we were not likely to lose provisions -and equipment, and with these the remainder of the -programme could be carried out, and even should she -get no farther she would have done her duty and -achieved the purpose of her being.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With my feelings of relief, was a glow of satisfaction -that by a hard-fought struggle we had -successfully negotiated the narrow, ice-encumbered -waters which form the American gateway and route -to the Pole; had distanced our predecessors; and had -substantiated my prophecy to the club, that with a -suitable ship, the attainment of a base on the north -shore of Grant Land was feasible almost every year.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Previous to the <i>Roosevelt</i>, only two other ships, the -<i>Polaris</i> and the <i>Albert</i>, had completely navigated these -<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>channels; and two others, the <i>Discovery</i> and the -<i>Proteus</i>, had penetrated them as far as Discovery -Harbour.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our freedom of movement and ability to leave the -shelter of the land and cross and recross the channel -at will through the heaviest ice, was also gratifying -to me.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the voyage from New York to Etah we had -passed the latitudes of the most northern extremities -of North America, Europe and Asia.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since leaving Etah, we had passed the latitudes of -the most northern extremities of Spitzbergen and -Franz Joseph Land, and now only the northern points -of the two most northern lands in the world, Cape -Morris Jesup and Cape Columbia, lay a little beyond -us. The northern-reaching fingers of all the rest of -the great world lay far behind us below the ice-bound -southern horizon. We were deep in that gaunt frozen -border land which lies between God’s countries and -inter-stellar space.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER III<br /> <span class='large'>AUTUMN AT CAPE SHERIDAN</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>It was hoped that the next ebb-tide would give -us an opportunity to advance farther, and -immediately after breakfast I hurried ashore to examine -the ice beyond Cape Sheridan and visit the cairn built -by the <i>Alert</i> thirty years before. The weather was too -thick to permit any satisfactory reconnoissance. I -took the <i>Alert’s</i> record from the cairn, a copy of which -Marvin later replaced together with an additional -brief memorandum. All the slopes of the land were -white with snow above which the cairn, and the lonely -grave of Petersen, Danish interpreter of the English -expedition, stood out in sombre silhouette. The <i>Roosevelt</i> -was moored close by a ledge of rocks where, in -1902, I had deposited a small cache for my return.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the last of the flood-tide the ice pressed in -upon us still harder, jamming the <i>Roosevelt</i> solidly -but not seriously against the ice-foot; and anticipating -still further pressures, I had the edge of the ice-foot -throughout the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> length chopped away on -an incline to the water level, so that the ship might -rise more easily to pressure. A fine snow fell throughout -the day. At midnight of the 5th, the sun’s disk -was apparently about two-thirds below the horizon. -The fine snow continued during the sixth and -the ice remained unchanged. After supper water -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>pools off-shore were visible from the summit of -the hill. There was evidently sufficient slack in -the ice for a fresh southerly wind to form a -good shore lead. On the sixth, I sent two parties -of three hunters each, with supplies for ten days, -out for musk-oxen, one party going southeast, the -other southwest. Other Eskimos were sent out for -hare. On the seventh it cleared sufficiently to give -us our first view of Cape Hecla and the United States -Range. September 8th was a brilliant day; three -Eskimos came in from Black Cliffs Bay with twenty-three -hare aggregating two hundred and eleven pounds. -This made the number of hare killed along here nearly -one hundred. The Eskimos were started at overhauling -sledges and making harnesses. The 9th was -a wonderfully mild day of brilliant sunshine for this -time and place. Sent a party to Porter Bay, just -south of Cape Hecla, the objective point I have in -view for the <i>Roosevelt</i>—a beautiful little bay which -I examined in 1902, with southern exposure and -protected from the running ice. A position here -would place us right at the beginning of our work, -would be convenient to the musk-ox haunts of Clements -Markham Inlet, and would be little or no farther than -Sheridan from the musk-ox preserves of the Lake -Hazen region. The dogs were all put ashore and -found the beds of dry gravel along the shore a much -more comfortable sleeping-place than the damp deck.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 10th, the temperature rose to 20° and damp -snow fell during the night and day. Early in the -morning of the 11th, a fresh southerly wind commenced, -accompanied by a heavy drift and a lane of water -<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>formed a few hundred feet outside of the <i>Roosevelt</i> -extending close past the point of Sheridan and on to -Belknap. But the ice which held us against the ice-foot -remained firmly fixed and we were unable to get -into the water. In the evening it had closed again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Started a party of three Eskimos off for Markham -Inlet after musk-oxen. After dinner three Eskimos -came in with the meat of four musk-oxen killed in -Rowan Bay, and in the evening the Porter Bay party -returned with the meat and skins of seven reindeer -killed in a valley on Fielden Peninsula. These, the -first specimens of this magnificent snow-white animal, -were from a herd of eleven surprised in a valley close -to Cape Joseph Henry, and among the seven was the -wide-antlered buck leader. These beautiful animals, -in their winter dress almost as white as the snow -which they traverse, were later found scattered over -the entire region from Cape Hecla to Lake Hazen, and -westward along the north Grant Land coast, over fifty -specimens in all being secured. The party reported -Porter Bay still filled with the unbroken ice of the -previous winter, and therefore impracticable for our -winter quarters. The night of the 11th was a perfect -Arctic autumn night. To the south over the land -the sky pearl-white; west and northwest, about the -couchant mass of Cape Joseph Henry, orange-yellow; -north, over the Polar Sea, gray-white; east and southeast -the snow-clad Greenland coast lay under the -purple shadows of the coming “Great Night.” On the -12th a fresh southerly wind set the snow drifting -savagely on all the uplands, flung out a long snow-banner -from the summit of Rawson, and formed a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>broad lane of water reaching from behind Rawson -past us and on toward Cape Henry. During the -12th and the 13th every effort was made with pickaxes -and dynamite to effect a passage to this water, -but without success. On the 14th, I sent a party -of four Eskimo hunters off to Lake Hazen. Since our -arrival, the Eskimos, when not otherwise engaged, -were getting the supplies from the main and after holds -up on deck, in readiness for landing as soon as it was -settled where our winter quarters would be.</p> - -<p class='c009'>About 10 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of the 16th, as I was on the bridge -taking a look about before turning in, a large floe -moving on the flood-tide pivoted around the point -of Sheridan and crashed into the smaller ice about -the ship, driving it bodily before it. At the first shock -the <i>Roosevelt</i> reeled and shook a bit, then heeled slightly -toward the crowding ice and turned it under her starboard -bilge. Standing on the starboard end of the -bridge and looking down upon the ice the sensation -was much like that of being on a large sledge moving -over the ice, so rapidly did the rounding side of the -<i>Roosevelt</i> turn the ice under her. Once or twice she -hung for an instant and quivered with the strain, then -heeled and turned the ice under again. This continued -until a corner of the floe itself, some portions -of which were higher than the rail, came full against -the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> starboard side amidships, with no intervening -cushion of smaller ice and held the ship -mercilessly between its own blue side and the unyielding -face of the ice-foot. Its slow resistless motion -was frightful yet fascinating; thousands of tons of -smaller ice which the big floe drove before it, the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span><i>Roosevelt</i> had easily and gracefully turned under her -sloping bilges, but the edge of the big floe rose to the -plank sheer and a few yards back from its edge, was -an old pressure ridge which rose higher than the -bridge deck. This was the crucial moment. For a -minute or so, which seemed an age, the pressure was -terrific. The <i>Roosevelt’s</i> ribs and interior bracing -cracked like the discharge of musketry; the deck -amidships bulged up several inches, while the main -rigging hung slack and the masts and rigging shook -as in a violent gale. Then with a mighty tremor -and a sound which reminded me of an athlete -intaking his breath for a supreme effort, the ship -shook herself free and jumped upward till her propeller -showed above water. The big floe snapped -against the edge of the ice-foot forward and aft and -under us, crumpling up its edge and driving it inshore -some yards, then came to rest, and the commotion -was transferred to the outer edge of the floe which -crumbled away with a dull roar, as other floes smashed -against it, and tore off great pieces in their onward -rush, leaving the <i>Roosevelt</i> stranded but safe.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the tide turned on the ebb the ship settled -down again considerably but never floated freely -again until the following summer. Anticipating further -pressure with following tides, and to provide -against the contingency of the ship being rendered -untenable, the work of putting some coal and all -supplies and equipment ashore was commenced at -once and prosecuted without interruption by the -officers, crew, and Eskimo men, women, and children, -for some thirty-six hours. Planks were put -<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>from the rail to the ice-foot on the port bow, -quarter and amidships, and the boxes of provisions -slid down these, when men took them and put them -back from the edge of the ice-foot, where the women -loaded them upon sledges and pushed them beyond -any danger of loss by disruption of the ice-foot itself. -This work was greatly expedited from the fact that -practically all the supplies had been taken out of the -holds during the previous days and were lying on -deck. While the work was in progress one of the -Eskimos of my southwest scouting party came in on -foot reporting twenty-one musk-oxen killed in Porter -Bay. The next night there was a brief and not serious -pressure, then the ice about the ship quieted down -again, though it ran strongly with the tides some -fifty yards outside of us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of course this occurrence put all ideas of any -farther advance out of question, and the usual -routine fall work of an Arctic expedition and preparation -for wintering were inaugurated. Hunting -parties of the Eskimos were kept constantly in -the field, covering the country north to Clements -Markham Inlet and south to Wrangel Bay and Lake -Hazen. The results of these parties were satisfactory, -considerable numbers of musk-oxen and -reindeer being secured. Almost every day one or -two hunters went out from the ship and in this way -some hundred or more hare were secured in the -immediate vicinity. But musk-oxen were to be our -mainstay, and while my confidence that we should -find numbers of these animals within a comparatively -short distance of the ship was justified by events -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>I still recognised that our main source of supply must -be the drainage basin of Lake Hazen, the northern -portion of which, covering the southern slopes of the -United States Range, had not been drawn upon by me -while at Fort Conger between 1899 and 1902.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This region was now tapped with great success by -parties travelling directly overland from the ship to -Lake Hazen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The boxes of provisions which had been landed -were fashioned by the crew into three box-houses, a -large one some thirty feet long by fifteen feet wide -which, roofed with the spanker and fitted with a stove -and fuel, was to serve as an immediate refuge in case -of mishap to the ship, and two smaller ones. The -larger tents were also set up ashore, the boats turned -bottom up and the barrels arranged in such a way as -to serve as wind shelters for the dogs. Later on -houses and tents were heavily banked with snow. All -the heavy ice next to the ship on the starboard side -was cut down on a gentle slope ending at the water -level against the ship’s side, and a bank of small -fragments of ice filled against the ship her entire -length to serve as a cushion. On top of this a wall -of snow blocks was built as high as the rail and from -the mainmast to the mizzenmast as high as the top -of the deck house. The deck was covered deep with -snow and the forward and after deck-houses covered -and banked in with the same. No attempt was made -to house in the deck with sails, but snow vestibules -or entrances were constructed at all of the outer doors.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Eskimo men when not in the field were occupied -in making sledges and harnesses, each man his own -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>sledge, and with the waning of the light, I had a fleet -of some twenty-five sledges in commission. Attempts -were made to hoist the rudder on deck so that it could -be repaired, but without success.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Marvin erected a tide gauge on the ice-foot protected -by a snow igloo, and took tidal observations during -a period in excess of a lunar month.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A disagreeable feature of this time was the frequent -occurrence of violent southerly winds varying from -vicious squalls of a few hours’ duration to furious gales -lasting two or three days. These winds invariably -denuded the land in our vicinity of snow and were -always accompanied by more or less extended open -water. As late as October 16th, a ship located south -of Rawson could have come around that cape and -made our present location with even greater ease than -did the <i>Roosevelt</i> on the 5th of September. On one -occasion such a ship could have gone on without -obstruction to Cape Joseph Henry, passing about one -hundred yards outside of our position. Naturally -under these conditions the mean temperature was -unexpectedly high.</p> - -<p class='c009'>October 1st, our large game score reached seventy-three -musk-oxen and twenty-seven reindeer, just an -even hundred. On this date small stoves were set -up for the first time in the after house. October -2d, the boilers were blown off for the winter. October -3d, I started to make a reconnoissance of our spring -route to Hecla, as my observations in 1902 had satisfied -me that there was a better route than that followed -by the English across Fielden Peninsula. I -also wished to examine Clements Markham Inlet for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>musk-oxen. Two marches from the ship took me to the -mouth of Clements Markham Inlet, one day of thick -weather was devoted to a trip part way into the inlet -and back; and the next two brought me back to the -ship, my anxiety for her having prevented my remaining -out as long as I wished. It was a new and -not particularly agreeable feeling to me to be hampered -by the cares of a ship, and thus kept from active fieldwork, -but I accepted the conditions and shifted the -burden of the remainder of the fall and winter work -to the younger shoulders in the party. On the 9th, -our large winter lamps were put in commission for -the first time. On the 13th, I snowshoed to the summit -of Black Cape and saw the sun for the last time, -peering for a moment through the misty ice-filled -opening of Robeson Channel to the south. From -Cape Sheridan, past Rawson, and on down past Cape -Union there was plenty of open water and across the -mouth of the channel to Repulse Harbour there was -nothing but light trash ice. For a few moments the -sun’s rays lit the entire southern summit line of the -United States Range, crested Mount Cheops with rose, -and just touched the peaks of Cape Joseph Henry. -It was so low, however, that the shadow both of Greenland -and of Grant Land reached northward across the -pack ice to the blue-black northern horizon except -where it streamed through between the precipitous -walls of the Channel itself forming a broad band of -yellow light between the shadows on either side, -“the Gateway to the Polar Sea.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>October 16th was marked by the most violent gale -we had had since leaving home. This gale left the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>land almost as bare as in summer, and the water -formed by it was more extensive than at any time -for a month. After all these gales, Cape Joseph -Henry stands out in black and savage profile. Of -all capes fronting the Polar Sea along the coasts -of Greenland and Grant Land, this is the most -ideal.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Soon after this, with almost the suddenness of -lightning from a clear sky, I faced the possibility of -the complete crippling of the expedition by the extermination -of my large pack of dogs. About eighty of -these indispensable animals died before the cause was -traced to poisoning from the whale meat which I had -taken for dog-food. This meat to the amount of -several tons was thrown away, and I found myself -confronted at the beginning of the long Arctic night -with the proposition of subsisting my dogs and most -of my Eskimos upon the country.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Without my previous familiarity with the region, -this would have been an absolute impossibility; even -as it was, it possessed elements of uncertainty, but -with the satisfactory start already made in obtaining -musk-oxen, and knowing that these animals could be -killed by those who knew how, even in the depths of -the great Arctic night, I believed there was somewhat -more than a fighting chance for success.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span> -<img src='images/i_065.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ROOSEVELT” IMMEDIATELY AFTER ARRIVAL AT CAPE SHERIDAN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span> -<img src='images/i_066.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ALERT’S” CAIRN AT FLOEBERG BEACH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_066b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>PETERSEN’S GRAVE, OVERLOOKING FLOEBERG BEACH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>On the 25th, portions of four hunting parties -from the Lake Hazen region came in, bringing -reports of a bag of one hundred and forty-four -head of musk-oxen and deer. Following the return -of these parties the dogs died rapidly, the number -one night reaching ten. It was evident that prompt -action must be taken, and in three days one hundred -and two dogs, twenty adult Eskimo men and women -and six children were sent into the field in addition -to those already out. From this time until the 7th -of February, the dogs and the greater portion of the -Eskimos remained in the Lake Hazen region, a portion -of the men coming to the ship during the full moon of -each month with sledge loads of meat, and returning -with tea, sugar, oil and biscuit. With their departure -the ship was almost deserted, daylight was nearly gone -and the winter may be said to have commenced, though -for convenience it was assumed to begin on the 1st -of November when the winter routine of two meals -a day went into effect, partly as a measure of economy, -and partly to leave the short and very rapidly decreasing -hours of twilight in the middle of the day -uninterrupted for work.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice outside of us was constantly in motion, -more or less active with the currents of the tides, and -about the middle of October the young ice incessantly -forming between the large floes became of such thickness, -that its crushing up rendered the movement of -the ice very audible. First as a loud murmur, later -with increasing cold as a hoarse roar, sometimes -continuous, sometimes intermittent, like heavy surf -upon the shore, which kept the air vibrating, and coming -as it did through the darkness and frequently -snow-filled air, contained a peculiarly savage and -foreboding note. On the 31st, after dinner, I climbed -to the summit of our lookout hill and sat for some -time upon a projecting rock. A fine snow was falling -amidst a semi-luminous fog, through which just the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>outlines of the <i>Roosevelt</i> loomed. I quote from my -journal as follows:</p> - -<p class='c008'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> lies below me, on one side the frozen -shore of the Arctic “Ultima Thule,” on the other -the great white disk of the central Polar Sea with its -mysteries and its terrors, its story of heroic effort, -and its still unconquered secret. No other ship has -been so far north in this region and but one other -ship has reached so high a latitude anywhere in the -entire circuit of the Polar Sea, and that one did not -attain her vantage ground by stress of continued battle, -as has the <i>Roosevelt</i>, but drifted to her position—helpless -and inert in the grasp of the ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Yet the <i>Roosevelt</i> lies there, sturdy but graceful, -her slender masts piercing the fog and falling snow; -a nimbus-circled glow of light at every port, -and a broad bar of yellow luminance from the galley -lamp shining forward over her and out through the -mist, just as if she were a steamer anchored in the -North River in a foggy night.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As I look at her a whole series of pictures rises -before me. The bright days at Bucksport, Maine, -when I and one other watched her grow into sturdy -shape under the fostering care of her builder, Captain -Dix; the launching, when Mrs. Peary, smashing an -ice-encased bottle of wine against the steel-clad -stern, christened her “<i>Roosevelt</i>”; New York Harbour, -with the tribute to her mission, from all the surrounding -craft; that black night in the straits of -Belle Isle; the fog-shrouded swell of the North -Atlantic and Davis Strait; the familiar black cliffs -<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>of Cape York rising directly over her bow; the -perfect summer day at Bache Peninsula; the battleroyal -with the huge floes as we crossed and -recrossed Kennedy and Robeson Channels; the -towering cliffs of Cape Constitution, Franklin Island -and Polaris Promontory as she breasted the fierce -north wind blowing down the Channel, with her engines -stubbornly throbbing “Northward, Northward, Northward”; -and finally the view that gray September -morning when we rounded Rawson and opened up -the ice-bound northern shore of Grant Land, with -the wide-stretching ice-fields of the central Polar Sea -fading away under the northern horizon.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IV<br /> <span class='large'>THROUGH THE “GREAT NIGHT” ON THE SHORES OF THE CENTRAL POLAR SEA</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>The winter, which for convenience I assume to -comprise the time from November 1st to -February 7th, the date of the return of the last of the -field parties, was marked by practically the same -ice and atmospheric conditions as the fall, accompanied -of course by a greater degree of cold and -almost entire absence of light.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Through all its vicissitudes and against continued -stress of wind and ice, the <i>Roosevelt</i> clung to her -moorings against the ice-foot, presenting a marked -contrast to the usual pictures of Arctic ships in winter -quarters. Having no topmasts to house, the ship’s -slender masts and light but effective rigging rose -aloft just as they did in the summer time. With -decks uncovered and only the houses banked in with -snow, at a little distance in the dim light the ship’s -general appearance was much as when afloat. One very -distinctive, very salient feature, was the galley lamp, -the “eye of the <i>Roosevelt</i>” as it was called, which -night and day from early October, when the sun left -us, until early March when it returned, shone through -the galley window, lighting the main deck and piercing -the darkness, the falling snow, the fog, for a considerable -distance on either bow. This beam of yellow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>light showed clearly from the top of the lookout hill -which some of us climbed every practicable day, and -was visible to every returning party from Hecla or -the hunting fields of the interior as soon as it rounded -Cape Sheridan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To anyone given to a belief in such things there were -several encouraging omens about the ship’s position. -The <i>Roosevelt’s</i> nose pointed persistently almost -true north, the bright yellow eye looked incessantly -to the northward and the beaten sledge road from the -ship to all points of communication led north along -the ice-foot.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The southerly gales continued to occur with frequency, -and increased in violence as we neared the -depth of winter. The movement of the ice was nearly -continuous, becoming very pronounced on each spring -tide, and the roaring of the pack at these times grew -louder and more vicious as the newly forming ice grew -in thickness and hardness.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This movement of the ice culminated on Christmas -night in the breaking away of the ice from the ice-foot -and the starboard side of the <i>Roosevelt</i> and, so far -as could be determined in the darkness, the complete -disruption of the pack adjacent to the shore and in -the mouth of Robeson Channel. This disruption -probably covered the entire segment of Lincoln -Sea from Cape Joseph Henry to Cape Bryant and -probably beyond.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Open water in the shape sometimes of leads, sometimes -of lakes, was also of almost continuous occurrence.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span> -<img src='images/i_075.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE SHERIDAN AND THE POLAR OCEAN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span> -<img src='images/i_076.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ROOSEVELT” AT CAPE SHERIDAN AFTER A SOUTHERLY GALE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>Repeated pressures were experienced by the <i>Roosevelt</i>, -none of them very serious, but sufficient to keep -us on the <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">qui vive</span></i> all the time. The snow upon the -land and along the ice-foot, which at first necessitated -the use of snowshoes, eventually became packed by -the recurring winds, until it would support the weight -of a man. Nearly all conditions were almost entirely -the reverse of those experienced by the British expedition -in the same region thirty years previous. -The winter moons in this high latitude were of long -duration and of great brilliancy unless obscured by -bad weather.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The usual monotony of an Arctic winter was entirely -destroyed for us (outside of the continuous excitement -which the movement of the ice afforded us) -by the extensive widening of our horizon as a result -of my settlements in the interior. The largest of -these was located upon the southern slopes of the United -States Range north of Lake Hazen; another near the -head of Lake Hazen; and a third at the Ruggles -River, with intermediate snow houses along the trail -between the settlements and the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From these settlements at the beginning of each -moon sledges came in bringing loads of musk-ox meat -and news of the hunt during the preceding weeks. -These sledges remained a few days at the ship, then -outfitted again and went back with new instalments -of Eskimo families to spend the interval until the -next moon in the interior. As a result of this there -was constantly something to talk of and something to -look forward to.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Preparations for the spring sledge journey were -carried on continuously, more sledges were built and -tents, harnesses, traces, and fur clothing made; the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>Eskimo women in all work demanding sewing proving -themselves invaluable. Pemmican was taken from -the cases, canvassed in packages convenient for handling -and stowing upon the sledges, and numbered, -under the supervision of Mr. Bartlett, the mate. -My own time was fully occupied in planning and -supervision and in devising some new methods and -items of equipment.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Personally I have never spent a winter in the Arctic -regions so free from petty annoyances and discomforts, -both physical and mental. The members of the party -were congenial, cheerful, energetic, and interested in -the work. The ship’s people were interested and -willing, and the atmosphere of the ship lacked entirely -the element of friction which is so often an extremely -disagreeable feature of Arctic winter life.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Captain Bartlett relieved me of all detailed care of -the ship, receiving and carrying out my general suggestions -with great energy and intelligence. I felt -that the physical well-being of the party was safe in -the hands of Dr. Wolf, and Marvin relieved me of the -routine drudgery of observations in addition to assisting -in other ways. Added to this, Percy the steward -was unremitting in looking out for my physical comfort.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There are, however, so many trump cards which can -be played against him who attempts to do serious -work in the highest latitudes, that there is always -some vital point which in spite of every care and provision -and forethought threatens to go wrong.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The present occasion was no exception to the rule. -Besides my anxiety in regard to the <i>Roosevelt</i>, -which in comparison was of minor importance, I was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>in a constant state of apprehension in regard to the -dogs. Each party coming from the interior brought -reports of additional deaths among these animals, -until their number was reduced to the danger limit -below which it would be impossible for me to carry -out essential features of the spring campaign.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In spite of these anxieties, however, my freedom -from minor annoyances afforded me time and suitable -frame of mind to devise new methods and items of -equipment which assisted materially later on. Among -the latter was a quick-acting alcohol camp stove, built -upon a new principle; and among the former a plan -of campaign and method of advance which possesses -valuable possibilities, and which had it not been for -the unusual ice conditions marking the year, and -particularly the disruption of the pack by the April -storm, would have enabled us to grasp the prize which -was the object of the Expedition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Mingled with this work and these plans and anxieties, -were times for thoughts and impressions some of -which will be given here even though they may interest -no one but myself, because to every normal mind they -are as much a part of the Arctic winter night as the ice, -the darkness, and the cold. Moments of exultation -and moments of depression. Moments of eager impatience -when I wished that the day for the departure -north might be to-morrow. Moments of foreboding -when I dreaded its arrival. Moments of sanguine -hopes, others of darkest misgivings. Thoughts and -memories of the home land, dreams and plans for the -future. At times the days seemed to rush by with -the velocity of the flood-tide past Sheridan, at others -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>they were as tardy as if moored to a rock. At all these -times the pianola, Mr. Benedict’s splendid gift, was -invaluable, soothing and lightening many an hour, -and sending me back to my work refreshed and with -new energy. For rest and recreation from the monotony -of incessant planning about the spring campaign, -I began upon plans for another ship of the same general -size and model of the <i>Roosevelt</i> for Arctic or Antarctic -work, but with improvements and details -modified in the light of experience gained with the -<i>Roosevelt</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>November 1st I placed a minimum self-registering -thermometer on the top of a hill 410 feet high about -a mile distant from the <i>Roosevelt</i>. On the 2d -among other work some baled hay was opened for use -in connection with the snow houses ashore, and the -perfume of it brought back a rush of associations. -What a contrast—this frozen night-canopied land- -and sea-scape, and warm summer hayfields in God’s -country. It does not seem as if both could be upon -the same planet.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 8th four families of Eskimos came in from -the Ruggles River. They have been in the field -twenty-seven days and have secured some seventy-five -musk-oxen, thirty to forty hare and twenty to -twenty-five foxes. Besides musk-ox meat they brought -in some hundred pounds of the peerless salmon trout -from Lake Hazen.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span> -<img src='images/i_081.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>A DAY’S HARE SHOOTING AT SHERIDAN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_081b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>RETURN OF HUNTING PARTY FROM CAPE HENRY WITH SPECIMENS OF NEW REINDEER<br /><br />(<i>Rangifer Pearyi</i>, Allen) September, 1905</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span> -<img src='images/i_082.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>LAST VIEW OF THE SUN, BLACK CAPE, OCTOBER, 12, 1905</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>On the 15th an aurora, one of several successive -displays of no great brilliancy, was in several respects -different from any that I had ever noticed. Occurring -in the east directly over some pools of open water it -was so low as apparently to emanate from the water, -and at irregular intervals the faint patches of auroral -light would disappear completely to be replaced a -moment later by a single bright spot like a pale parhelion -close to the water. Occasionally in place of -the parhelion a bright narrow vertical bar of light -appeared. The 16th was marked by pronounced -barometric and thermometric fluctuations, the former -downward, the latter upward, these abrupt changes -followed by violent wind from the south, and this in -turn by a mile-wide belt of water reaching from behind -Rawson past the ship and Cape Sheridan, and so -northward toward Henry as far as could be seen in -the obscure moonlight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The view from the hill in the evening was striking. -The brilliant moonlight; the sky blue-black except -where flecked with silvery clouds; the dead white -of the ice; the inky blackness of the water; the ghostly -shapes of the land; the one tiny speck of yellow light -shining out from the <i>Roosevelt</i>. Accompanying and -adding a touch of action to this outlook was the -rush of the wind which, although laden with drifting -snow, seemed yet to have a touch of warmth in it, -and the cries of the Eskimo children playing on the -ice-foot, mingled with the sound of waves dashing -against the edges of the lead, and the distant hoarse -roar of the ice pack surging back with the flood-tide -into the mouth of Robeson Channel.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The 25th was marked by groans and complaint from -the <i>Roosevelt</i> and the ice about her, accompanied by loud -roaring of the heavier floes as they ground past the point -of Sheridan during the greater portion of the flood-tide.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>Thanksgiving Day was marked by the presence of -plum-pudding, candy and cigars on the dinner table, -and a graphophone performance by the Doctor in -the evening. December 4th, on the first of the moon, -two Eskimos came in from the interior reporting -thirty-three musk-oxen killed during the past month -and that twelve to fifteen more dogs had died. During -the December moon the Doctor made a number -of photos of the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 16th Henson and six Eskimos came in and -reported twenty musk-oxen killed since the last report. -This makes sixty-two in all since the exodus from the -ship the last of November. This is very satisfactory, -but is more than balanced by the news of additional -deaths among the dogs. Two large buck reindeer -were found on the southern slopes of the United -States Range with their horns locked, frozen in a death -struggle. On the 17th with the running of the spring -tides there were again serious complaints from the -<i>Roosevelt</i> and the neighbouring ice. On the 18th, -Marvin left with four Eskimos for the Lake Hazen -colonies to remain until the February moon. The -winter solstice occurred on the 22d, the sun (invisible -to us of course) in the early morning hours reaching -his greatest southern declination, the midnight hour -of the “Great Night.” From now on he would be -slowly coming back to us. This is the New Year’s -day of the northern hemisphere, a world-day beside -which our artificial dates and holidays pale, and nowhere -else meaning so much as here in this black -disk of the “Great Night.”</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span> -<img src='images/i_085.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SHAPING THE RUNNERS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_085b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>DRILLING HOLES FOR THE LASHINGS<br /><br />ESKIMOS MAKING SLEDGES ABOARD THE “ROOSEVELT”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_086.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SALMON TROUT FROM LAKE HAZEN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_086b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ESKIMO WOMAN FISHING ON LAKE HAZEN</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_086c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ESKIMO MEN FISHING ON LAKE HAZEN</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>About 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of Christmas Day the wind began -blowing from the south and was soon howling across -the ship in a level torrent of white rage. Every stay -and shroud was humming like a great æolian, and the -ice about us was cracking and groaning with the -strain. So violent was the wind that the window of -the Captain’s stateroom was blown in. At 8 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> it -was absolutely calm, the stars shining brilliantly, -temperature at –6° F. and the air resonant with the -dash of waves against the opposite side of the broad -lead of open water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The mess rooms were decorated with flags by the -Doctor, and there were presents for everyone, principally -candies and other creature comforts contributed -by friends at home, at the head of whom stood Huyler. -Among my own presents were a bottle of special -champagne from home, another of ancient Tokay -from a thoughtful friend, two or three letters, and a -pillow of fragrant fir needles from Eagle Island, in a -case worked by the blue-eyed little one who herself -had been born within the precincts of the “Great -Night.” The Christmas dinner was a special event -shared alike by those forward as well as aft and appreciated -by everyone.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our Christmas festivities had, however, a somewhat -startling and entirely unexpected ending. After dinner -I paced the ice-foot for a couple of hours, busy with -the crowding thoughts which my letters and presents -had brought to me. Returning to my room I sat -down to listen to the graphophone which the Doctor -had started in the neighbouring mess room. A little -later the ice began cracking and groaning, and in a -moment or two it was evident to me that there was a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>new note in its complaint, entirely different from the -usual accompaniment of the running of the spring -tides. I stepped out upon the quarter-deck and could -not only hear but feel the ice humming and cracking, -not loudly but viciously under intense pressure. I -called the Captain, stepped inside to put on my coat, -extinguished my fire and the one in the adjoining -workroom with a dipper of water, blew but my lamp, -and passed forward through the house to the main -deck.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When I reached there the ice had separated from -the ice-foot, and the heavy floe which had squeezed -us last September was moving off carrying with it -our starboard ice-wall and leaving the starboard -side of the ship completely exposed, with the black -water lapping against the planking.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In a surprisingly short time the ice had disappeared -completely in the inky darkness, and the black water -stretched apparently limitless, giving back the image -of every star. There was no cause for instant apprehension, -the trouble would come when the ice came -back with the turn of the tide, with nothing between -the ship and it to break its momentum or cushion its -blow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Eskimos were running about in great excitement, -bringing up their children and household goods from -the ’tweendecks; and not caring to have a lot of women -and children to fall over in case of trouble, I had the -stove in the big box house fired up and sent them all -ashore to that shelter with their bedding and clothing. -One of the crew and one of the Eskimo men who were -temporarily on the sick list were likewise sent ashore.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span> -<img src='images/i_089.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MOONLIGHT VIEW OF THE “ROOSEVELT” IN HER WINTER QUARTERS<br /><br />Exposed with full moon for three hours, December 12, 1905, by Dr. Wolf, Surgeon of the Expedition</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span> -<img src='images/i_090.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE BOW OF THE “ROOSEVELT” IN WINTER QUARTERS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>Then accompanied by the Captain I made a careful -tour of inspection of and about the ship, pointing out -the possibilities of our position, and indicating what -should be done to provide as far as possible against -all contingencies. A full watch was kept on and -everyone else turned in with their clothes on. The -following day men and officers and Eskimos were -busy running out all available lines from the port -bow, quarter, and amidships, and also from the mastheads.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The weather continued clear and the temperatures -very moderate. The evening flood-tide caused a -great deal of movement and noise all about us, but -brought no direct pressure upon the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had no fears that the <i>Roosevelt</i> would be crushed -by any onset of the ice, but I did apprehend that she -might be forced bodily up on to the ice-foot, thrown -on her beam ends and pushed so far inshore that it -would be impossible to float her another season. -Another possibility was that a particularly violent -gale, such as might occur at any time, would tear us -from our moorings and carry us out into the moving -pack, in which event there would not be one chance -in a hundred of our being able to get the ship back -to her present position again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the morning of the 28th a gust of south wind -blowing through the ventilator holes in my stateroom -door woke me and I went on deck immediately. It -was then very clear, with the wind light and baffling -from every quarter, evidently gathering its forces. -At 5 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> it came on with a rush from the south, and -increased in fury until nothing could be heard above -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>its roar, and the ship was completely submerged in a -blinding cataract of snow. In a short time a piece -of ice on our starboard quarter began groaning and -grinding against the ship’s side. Fearing it might -break loose and, in the event that our propeller and -rudder post were frozen into it, tear our stern from -its moorings, every piece of line that could be found -was run out from the port quarter and made fast to -the ice-foot. As in all of these gales the temperature -was comparatively high, being in this instance from -seven to fourteen degrees above zero. Otherwise -the work would have been extremely trying and even -dangerous. One of the crew stumbling in a crack a -few yards from the ship lost his bearings and after -some time brought up at the box houses on the shore. -Some of the Eskimos coming from the box houses to -the ship lost their way and groped for some time before -they got their bearings. At noon the wind had -moderated and our stream anchor was attached to -the end of the port chain cable, placed in a hole dug -for it in the ice-foot behind a large grounded floeberg, -and then frozen in.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For several hours during the day the <i>Roosevelt</i> rolled -pronouncedly on the swell, swinging round Rawson -from the wild sea in the mouth of Robeson Channel.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For several days after this there was more open -water in the neighbourhood than at any time since -our arrival. All the upper part of Robeson Channel -was open and everything to the northeast and north -from Rawson round to Sheridan and beyond inky -black. At 3 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of January 1st, the ice came in -against our starboard side with a steady roar, but the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span><i>Roosevelt</i> turned it under her like water running into -a mill-race, and the pressure ceased before any unusually -heavy ice came against her. A little later the ice -swung completely off-shore again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The night of the 6th was a disagreeable anniversary -to me. Seven years before I was struggling across Lady -Franklin Bay in bitter cold and complete darkness, to -bring up finally at Fort Conger with both feet frozen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 7th a new baby arrived in the Eskimo settlement, -a girl, quite likely the most northerly born of -all children. On the 9th the air all day was full of -the groaning, roaring, grinding of the ice, though no -pressure came upon the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This noise and commotion of the ice occurred almost -continuously during the month, varying in intensity -from time to time and the <i>Roosevelt</i> was subjected to -pressures of more or less force. It was a period of -constant anxiety with the ice pack surging back and -forth along the shore on each tide and liable to crash -in upon us at any time. Every one slept in their -clothes, all lanterns and portable lights were kept -filled and trimmed ready for immediate use, and provision -was made for the instant extinguishment of all -fires. The welcome twilight of returning day steadily -increased, a considerable contingent of the Eskimos -from the interior returned to the ship in the January -moon bringing letters from Marvin containing the -report of more musk-oxen secured. On the 7th of -February, with the first light of the February moon, -Marvin himself came in with the balance of the -Eskimos and dogs and the report of more musk-oxen -killed. This closed the winter campaign.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER V<br /> <span class='large'>SHERIDAN TO THE BIG LEAD</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>On February 19th, Captain Bartlett left finally -for Cape Hecla. Marvin and party followed -the next day, Dr. Wolf and his party the next, and I -two days later.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When I left the <i>Roosevelt</i> there was a lead of open -water extending from Cape Joseph Henry past Capes -Sheridan and Rawson. The northern part of Robeson -Channel was open. There was open water along the -Greenland coast as far as the Black Horn Cliffs and -apparently to Cape Bryant, with numerous pools and -leads in the sweep from Cape Henry to Cape Bryant.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Three marches brought me to Cape Hecla, where -the entire outfit was assembled. Our encampment -comprised Captain Bartlett, Dr. Wolf, Marvin, Henson, -Clark and Ryan, myself and twenty-one Eskimos, -with 120 dogs—the personnel for one main and five -or six division parties, which according to my programme -I hoped would be able to advance supplies -and maintain communication to a base as high -as Abruzzi’s “Farthest” for my final point of -departure.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Point Moss, some twenty miles west of Cape Hecla, -was determined upon as our point of departure from -the land. Two days were spent at Cape Hecla resting -the dogs, repairing sledges, harnesses and equipment, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>and restowing sledge loads, the expedition quartering -in seven snow houses and subsisting upon four musk-oxen -killed just back of Cape Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On February 28th, Henson left Cape Hecla with a -pioneer party of three light sledges. Captain Bartlett -and his party followed the next day, then Clark and -his party, then Dr. Wolf, then Marvin, Ryan and -myself. During our stay at Cape Hecla there was open -water along the ice foot and a large lead reaching -north from the cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>March 4th.</i>—Still blowing viciously from the west -with blinding drift. My men came in from feeding -the dogs, with their clothes driven full of snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of course, everything is still stalled by the furious -wind. Henson should be three marches out on the -ice, Bartlett two, and the Doctor one. Clark is at -Point Moss, I am here with four men, and Marvin -should be on Fielden Peninsula.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have, however, no reason to complain of the -weather. From the 19th till yesterday there has -been no really bad weather and the first five days -here were perfect, considering the place and the season, -enabling me to get my parties away and attend to all -essential details without serious discomfort.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Now we are well supplied with food, and the -dogs have plenty to eat and are well sheltered. -The wind has closed all the water, for the time -being at least. My new device, the alcohol lamp, is -working out finely and makes tea or coffee almost in -no time.</p> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_099.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>WEIGHING MUSK-OX MEAT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_099b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>REINDEER AND MUSK-OX MEAT IN THE RIGGING</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_100.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CROSSING FIELDEN PENINSULA</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>Marvin came in from the ship at 9 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of the -4th, with three Eskimos and Ryan, the fireman who was -to take young Percy’s place, the latter having been -invalided back to the ship with an injured eye.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 5th, the last eight sledges got away for -Point Moss, I bringing up the rear with Inueto, as I -had to see that things remaining at Hecla were left in -order, and the permanent igloo there closed against -wind and drifting snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The day was clear and cold with violent gusts of -wind from the northwest driving in our faces.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My sledge being loaded with bulky articles of -spare equipment, was somewhat top-heavy and repeatedly -capsized.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I arrived at Point Moss a little before midnight, after -a good but fatiguing march. It was brilliant moonlight, -and the twilight arc now swung nearly all the -way through north.</p> - -<p class='c009'>March 6th I left Point Moss and headed northward -from the land over the Polar pack.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In 1902 it was just a month later that I left Hecla -going north. And four years previous, on the 6th -of March, I left Payer Harbour with eighteen sledges -on a journey which took me to 84° 17′ north latitude; -a great march as regards distance and latitude covered.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal: “If I can do as well this -time we shall win. God and all good angels grant it, -and let me seize this great trophy for the Flag.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>We were rather late in getting started and it was -noon when we left the edge of the ice some two miles -north of the land. Here the sun was visible for a few -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>moments through a notch in the southern mountains. -Was it a good omen? I thought that it must be.</p> - -<p class='c009'>An ideal day, clear and calm and bitter cold, the -southern sky vivid yellow, the northern rose-coloured -like my dreams.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going was good at first though our trail was -tortuous, but later became extremely arduous.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Reaching Henson’s first igloo, Marvin, Ryan and I -remained and began working upon an additional igloo, -while I sent my Eskimos ahead with half-loads to form -an advance cache and reconnoitre the ice. They -returned with a report that the ice was heavily -rafted since yesterday’s party passed and the trail -faulted. Two sledges were considerably damaged by -the day’s work. My supper and breakfast of tea and -raw frozen, musk-ox steak were more than enjoyable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again I quote from my Journal: “The battle is on -at last. We are straightened out on the ice of the -Polar Sea heading direct for our goal.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>The 7th was another fine day, somewhat milder than -the 6th with more or less mist hiding the land and -partially obscuring the sun. Good going up to the -advance loads, beyond which, after some skirmishing, -we picked up the broken trail again on young ice. -While we were traversing this ice, pronounced movement -occurred and leads and rafters began to form -about us, sometimes occurring between successive -sledges, and it required rapid, effective work to assemble -all the sledges upon a fragment of old floe some -hundred yards across, where we were compelled to -wait some time, until the motion of the ice ceased. -When it did so, after another brief skirmish, we picked -up the trail north of us, and followed it to the -second igloo. Here two Eskimos remained with me, -to build an igloo, Marvin and Ryan taking their -places with the sledges and returning with the others -to bring up the previous day’s advance loads. When -they returned they reported the ice still in motion in -our rear, and that they had reached the cache just in -time to save it from being obliterated by a huge rafter.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span> -<img src='images/i_103.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE HECLA WITH CAPE JOSEPH HENRY IN THE DISTANCE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span> -<img src='images/i_104.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPTAIN BARTLETT AT CAPE HECLA</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>While at this camp, the floe on which my igloos -were built split in two, shattering the igloos, and the -ice, evidently under severe pressure, rumbled and -groaned continuously. The 8th was a fine day with -some wind from the northwest, and the land hidden -by water-smoke forming over the numerous cracks and -narrow leads resulting from the movement of the ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going was comparatively good on this march, -except where the movement of the ice had faulted the -trail. Two more sledges were broken and held together -just long enough to reach camp. At this camp -again the floe on which my igloos were built cracked -under the terrific pressure, and the igloos shook and -trembled as if by an earthquake shock, so that some of -the Eskimos rushed out in alarm. The cracking and -uneasiness of the ice continued during our stay in this -camp. The rapid increase of daylight was marked -here by the insertion of an ice window in our igloo -which enabled us to distinguish objects inside throughout -the entire night. An early start was made -on the 9th in spite of heavy northwest wind and -disagreeable drift. A few hours later I met the captain -returning with his party from the cache at the -end of the first division, fixed by me at the end of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>6th march. He had left Henson the day before, and -on the way back met the Doctor and Clark, so that a -few moments’ conversation with him put me in touch -with conditions and the location of everyone ahead -of me. He reported the ice in motion everywhere, -the floe upon which my advance loads were placed -yesterday drifted a mile or more to the southeast, -and the trail disrupted for a long distance. I gave -him detailed instructions and he disappeared in the -rear of my party on his way to Hecla for additional -loads. This was a fairly good march though we were -steadily drifting eastward. I hoped that with the -cessation of the spring tides and the continuance of -the bitter cold the ice would become more stable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 10th the ice was more quiet; there was little -wind: the day was fine and the going comparatively -good. I quote from my Journal: “Things are <i>too</i> -favourable. I am oppressed with the fears of open -water ahead.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 11th I overtook Clark and the Doctor at -cache number one, and was able to simplify and assist -the work of both in some details. The next two days -were a continuance of the fine but bitterly cold weather. -The Three-star brandy on my sledge was frozen -continuously. On the 15th I overtook Henson and -the Doctor with their parties camped together, Henson -claiming to be stalled by the weather. I gave him -explicit instructions and started him out. I then sent -Marvin and his party back to Hecla for additional supplies -in order to give Henson a start, and utilised my -own and Clark’s parties in bringing up supplies from -cache number one, and in pushing loads ahead from this -camp. While at this camp the Captain came in, -having been six marches from Hecla. The men sent -out on Henson’s trail reported that the going beyond -here was the best yet.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span> -<img src='images/i_107.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>DELAY CAMP AT THE “BIG LEAD”<br /><br />84° 38′</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span> -<img src='images/i_108.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ESKIMO DRAWINGS MADE AT STORM CAMP</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>March 17th.</i>—A glorious day, clear as a crystal and -the sun is shining nearly twelve hours. The land distinctly -visible, but not as far away as I could wish. -The Captain and his party pulled out early and Clark -and his party soon after. I brought up the rear a -little later with my party.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After working through about a mile of fearfully -rough ice, we came out upon what looked as if it might -be (and God knows I hoped it was) the comparatively -unbroken homogeneous ice of the central Polar Sea. -A beautiful sight, the level, slightly drifted snow plain -stretching away apparently infinitely to the North.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>March 18th.</i>—Another glorious day but bitterly cold, -the brandy remaining frozen and the petroleum -white and viscid; my dogs very tired and unambitious. -It is aggravating not to be travelling faster in such -weather and going, and it is not pleasant to be at the -rear attending to loose ends, but I have the consolation -of knowing that my advance parties are, or -ought to be, a good distance ahead, and that before -long I shall be in my proper place at the very head of -the line, breasting the air that comes direct from the -pole uncontaminated by any form of life. At this -camp one new sledge was made out of two broken ones.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And so the work went on, the parties going and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>coming, myself in touch with and pushing those ahead -of me and pulling those in the rear, so to speak, in a -position where I could straighten out any little hitches -and keep the distribution of the parties such as to -minimise the work of igloo building, and prevent confusion -rising when two or three parties got bunched -together. It was brute hard work and bitter cold. -The brandy continued frozen and oil viscid, but everyone -was eager and cheerful. The Captain, Doctor, -and Clark on the <i>qui vive</i> all the time, and the Eskimos -hustling with their usual willingness. On the 22d, -at my camp on a big floe selected for this purpose, -cache number two was established. Although the -work was not moving with the speed which I could -have desired, it was moving with such apparent -smoothness that I constantly feared some insurmountable -obstacle was waiting for us just ahead, and -yet I felt that it might be that twenty years of -work, disappointment and sacrifice would perhaps be -allowed to win. During the night of the 21st at -this camp the wind came on fresh from the west, -blowing with distinct fierceness all night and day of -the 22d and causing pronounced changes in the ice. -Our big floe cracked and rumbled frequently and the -walls of our igloo were split but not so seriously -as to be beyond repair. Wind shelters were constructed -for the dogs and they were double rationed. -Although a bitter day, the 22d was the first day -since I left land that I was held up by the weather, -and I could have travelled on this day had -there been any necessity for it, but to have done -so would only have piled my party up on top -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>of the Captain’s, who was now one march ahead of me, -and given us unnecessary and disagreeable labour and -discomfort in building an additional igloo in the wind -and driving snow. When we left this camp, I found, -as I had expected, that the storm had caused pronounced -changes in the ice. Some two miles from -camp a newly formed lane of water a hundred yards -or more wide gave us some trouble to negotiate, and -at two other places enormous pressure leads had been -formed across the Captain’s trail. The northern ice -in every instance had shifted to the eastward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Several narrow leads that the Captain’s party passed, -and on which the intense cold had already formed -young ice gave us no trouble. Our camp at the end -of this march was located in a hollow between two -enormous hummocks on a large old floe.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'>Though I fight against it continuously, I find it -impossible under conditions like to-day not to indulge -in some thoughts of <i>success</i> as I tramp along, -and I get so impatient that I do not want to stop -at the igloos but keep right on and on. At night I -can hardly sleep waiting for the dogs to get rested -sufficiently to start again. Then I think, what will -be the effect if some insuperable obstacle, open -water, absolutely impossible ice, or an enormous fall -of snow knock me out now when everything looks -so encouraging? Will it break my heart, or will -it simply numb me into insensibility? And then I -think, what’s the odds, in two months at the longest -the agony will be over, and I shall know one way or -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>the other, and then whichever way it turns out, -before the leaves fall I shall be back on Eagle -Island again, going over the well-known places -with Jo and the children, and listening to the birds, -the wind in the trees, and the sound of lapping waves -(do such things really exist on this frozen planet?).</p> - -<p class='c008'>Four good marches were reeled off from cache -number two in good weather. Ten years ago I would -have called these marches fully fifteen miles each, -now I hoped they were at least twelve. In the second -march there was considerable young ice which I feared -might give the Captain some trouble on his return -march. A vigorous wind at any time would cause the -big floes on either side of this ice to crumble it up like -so much window glass and leave only an irregular rafter -or two to show that it ever existed. At one of our -camps the night was the most uncomfortable yet. -We and everything in the igloo were thickly covered -with our frozen breath, and it seemed impossible to -make the stove give out heat enough to boil our tea. -The thermometer which I carried with me to prevent -breaking had a bubble jarred into it by my falling in -rough ice and was stubborn to remedy. There was -little doubt, however, that our temperature was in -the minus sixties. Several leads in these marches -gave us some trouble, causing considerable detours -and the records of Henson and the Captain in their -igloos showed that they had had the same trouble.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>March 25th.</i>—This morning I discarded the light -deerskin coat in which I had travelled thus far for an -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>old but dry one. The former was simply sodden while -I had it on, froze solid as soon as I took it off and it -had to be thawed out in the morning with the warmth -of my hands. Last night was a little more comfortable -than the previous one, but not much. I got the -bubble out of the thermometer and when I took -it outside the igloo it fell so rapidly from minus -25° F. (the temperature of our bed platform where -it had been resting close to my head) that at first I -feared it was broken. It finally stopped at minus -61½° F. During the march it has ranged from -minus 55 and minus 53 to <i>minus 50 in the sun</i>, and yet -to-day has been the most comfortable one for the -past week (my Eskimos corroborate this). Am -sorry now I did not put the thermometer in commission -sooner. We must have had some record -temperatures.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A dog abandoned by one of the parties ahead and -which I picked up yesterday, fed last night and -tied in the other igloo so the wind would not reach -him, pricked up his hitherto dejected ears at my -appearance and after he had eaten another piece -of pemmican lay down and rolled on his back like -any civilised dog. He is utterly useless, poor -thing, but has worked faithfully, no doubt, and as I -have pemmican to spare just now he shall not starve -yet. To-day he has kept on in one of the teams and -his hitherto hopeless eyes brighten, I fancy, when he -looks at me.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Quite a bit of young ice in to-day’s march and several -magnificent old floes with hummocks on them like -ranges of hills. The sun is rapidly creeping around to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>complete the entire circle, and at noon I fancy there -is a slight sensation of warmth in his rays.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To-day has been quite hazy or smoky like the days -immediately after we left the land which I do not like, -as this means cracks or leads in the ice. But the -weather we are having is just the thing, cold and calm, -to cement the ice firmer and firmer, and quickly render -any new cracks or leads passable. I hope it may -continue so till we get back to the land; the colder -and the calmer the better. I want no wind or mild -weather until we are back on board ship.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>March 26th.</i>—A glorious day, and a splendid march, -over the finest going and then—bang up against it, -as I have been fearing all along. I have been dreaming -too much these last few days, for which there could -be of course, but one result, a black eye to my hopes -of speedy success.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early in the morning heard the welcome sound of -grinding ice and turning out found the lead, beside which -we had camped, had narrowed enough to eliminate the -unsafe ice. We were soon packed and over, following -the Captain’s new trail, which gradually swung westward -until it cut Henson’s trail beyond his igloo. (The -thermometer had registered –60° F. during the night, -and stood at –52° F. when I took it up.)</p> - -<p class='c009'>After striking Henson’s trail we kept on over large -old floes of hard surface interrupted by not particularly -difficult pressure ridges, and after a good long -march reached Henson’s igloo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>His record said that he was here during the storm -of the 22d and had left on the 23d. A postscript -<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>undated said there was an igloo just ahead and a -lead beyond. The Captain’s record of the 25th said -he was leaving about noon to join Henson.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had noticed in coming up to the igloos a dark -object on the northern edge of the floe, and now assumed -it to be an empty tin, or cast off clothing on -top of an igloo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When my men came up we fed the dogs, put our gear -inside, and began making tea, when Ahngmalokto said -he could hear dogs up ahead of us. I turned the tea -making over to him, and went out to investigate.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I soon met the Captain coming out to me, and found -three parties banked up here, by a broad open lead -extending east and west across our course, farther -than we could see. I immediately started to investigate -the lead and from a pinnacle it looked as -if there might be a chance to cross during the night. -The northern ice was slowly moving west.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I told Henson to have his men stand watch and -watch, and if the chance came to notify everyone so -that a quick crossing could be effected. I then went -back to my igloo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After my tea I sent a note to the Captain telling -him if there was a chance to cross, to travel with -Henson for two days and then return, and a note to -Henson to get across the lead at the first possible -moment and push on.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early in the morning of the 27th I went up to see -how things were going, and met the Captain coming -to report that Henson had started to try and get -across to the west, and he was about to follow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When he got away I climbed a pinnacle to reconnoitre -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>and was not encouraged. The lead was evidently -widening. Came down and sent a note to the Captain -that if he could not get across to return with every -one and I would send him and Clark and their men -back for more supplies. I could not afford to feed all -these teams and people here during what might be a -several days’ wait.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Captain and Clark got away before noon with -seven sledges, and I moved up beside the lead. At -night the lead was still widening and the ice slowly -moving west. Min. during night –66° F. temperature -during day about –60°.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The northern ice continued slowly in motion to the -west during the 28th, which was a fine day.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I sent Henson and an Eskimo west with a light -sledge to trace the lead. They reported the lead -widening in that direction and a branch swinging -northwest and southwest.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two Eskimos sent east reported the lead impracticable -in that direction and a branch swinging off to -southeast. The lead was slowly widening so that the -young ice had no time to get firm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Late in the evening, after a few preliminary cracks, -the ice broke about us with a furious rending sound, -and jarring of the igloo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Going out I found that a crack some twelve feet -wide had opened in our floe a short distance to -the south, cutting us from the main floe. A good -day though hazy. Movement of northern ice decreasing, -and the lead skimming over. Another fine day -followed. The movement of the ice had practically -ceased, and the lead was skimmed over so as to cut -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>off the dense vapour that had been obscuring our view -to the north.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Eskimos claimed to see water to the north, but -I could see nothing but mirage, and declined to -believe in it until I had it at my feet.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Satisfactory observations with sextant and transit -gave Lat. 84° 38′ + Longitude 74° W. approx, and Var. -107½° W. We were somewhat farther west than I -intended owing to the constant tendency of Henson -and his party to turn to the left in negotiating leads -and areas of rough ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I did not sleep much during the night of the 30th -(not but that I was comfortable enough physically) -and we had an early tea.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A raw, cloudy, threatening morning with a breeze -from S. S. W. true which I feared would develop into -a gale. In the afternoon and evening it cleared and -was fine again. I got my observations just in time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice had ceased its motion entirely now, and in -the afternoon of the 31st the young ice on the lead -(now some two miles wide) was safe except a strip -about 100 feet wide in the centre, with a narrow -band of open water in its middle.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I sent Henson with one man and the long sledge to -the east on the young ice, and he reported the main -lead narrowing and branching, one branch running -S. E. true. The band of young ice and the water -crack continued on east.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the afternoon I had the men cut a sledge road -through the rubble ice, bordering the lead, to the -young ice, as we might be able to get a start the next -day.</p> - -<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span><i>Sunday, April 1st.</i>—This was nearly a perfect day not -a speck or flaw in the blue sky anywhere, and the sun -brilliant and warm (comparatively).</p> - -<p class='c008'>It was a shame to be wasting such weather in idleness, -and yet it could not be helped, nor was it possible to be -seriously downhearted in such sunshine. In the -morning the centre of the lead had closed so that a -man “walking wide” as the polar bear does, could -cross it, but an easterly movement of the northern ice -during the night had opened a place some 200 feet -wide on the northern side of the lead which effectually -barred crossing. The set of the current was -still to the west. A light air from N. E., N. and -N. W. during the day might I hoped shut the lead up -by morning.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We continued drying our clothing in the sun and -doing odd jobs to pass away time and keep from -thinking. It was wearing to be held from one’s -work and object so many days, and yet there were -many chances yet. It was still early in the season, -dogs and men were in good condition, and I could -not help believing that once across this lead (the -“Hudson River?”) which is undoubtedly the tidal -crack between the land ice of Lincoln Sea and the -central polar pack, we should have good going and -little interruption from water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had two beacons made of empty pemmican -tins and placed one on the summit of Observatory -Pinnacle, and the other on a high pinnacle to the -west.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span><i>April 2d.</i>—Across the “Hudson River” at last, thank -God, after a loss of seven days of fine weather.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Ryan came in about nine last evening with his -three men Ahngodoblaho, “Teddy” and Itukashoo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He brings a story of delay from open leads at the -igloos where the Doctor turned back; again this side -of cache number two, and in his last march here, which -makes my men’s faces very long. The Captain was -also bothered by open water and was three days getting -to the cache. Ryan met him just this side.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the other hand he says from the “Dr.’s igloos” -in to the land the ice has not moved, and that there -was no wind in near the land on the 22d.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He brought very light loads. But it all helps, and -Marvin and Clark must be close behind.</p> - -<p class='c008'>My impatience about the lead would not let me sleep, -so at 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> I had tea ready and sent my two men -to reconnoitre. They were gone a long time, and I -made up my mind they could find no crossing, when they -returned, and said they thought the ice would hold at a -place a little west of where we had been watching it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Turned everyone out, and sent all the sledges across -with light loads on each and, when they returned -hurried everything else on to them and went across -with everyone except Ryan and two of his men (I -took the other one with me), who started right back.</p> - -<p class='c009'>While the men were scouting I had written notes of -instruction to Marvin, Clark, Captain, Doctor, and Ryan -himself, which the last-named took back with him.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With everything over Henson packed his sledges -and got away at 8 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> My men built an igloo, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>double rationed their dogs, and I arranged their loads, -and put what remained in a prominent cache on a -hummock of the old floe on which we camped. A -beautiful day but colder, and the going north appeared -to be good. I hoped it was.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The point of view makes a great difference. From -here the broad “Hudson River” looked much fairer -than it did from the other side, and looking across its -shining surface to the purple shadows under the -opposite ice banks, a very strong imagination might -even fancy a resemblance to its namesake.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VI<br /> <span class='large'>FROM THE “BIG LEAD” TO 87° 6′ N. LAT.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>The night of April 2d was fine until early morning -when it clouded up, and when we got under -way it was dark and threatening, with a biting -wind right from the direction of the Pole, swinging -later to the west. The ice was shrouded in the shadowless -light peculiar to these conditions, making it almost -impossible to see Henson’s trail. I found that our -camp floe was an island; a broad lane of young ice -separating it from the other ice. After passing two -or three more narrow lanes of young ice, we got beyond -the most pronounced traces of the recent disturbance, -and travelled over heavy old ice, with snow somewhat -deeper and softer than south of the “Big Lead.” -There was no season’s ice and recent pressure ridges -were infrequent. We reached Henson’s igloo where -his record told what a hard march they had and -how tired they were, etc., etc. The sun, now continuously -above the horizon, shone for a bit as we -camped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Thick and blowing from the north all night, and the -same when we got under way the 4th. The diffused -light made it very difficult to follow the nearly wind-obliterated -trail. Frequent snow squalls from the -north and west added annoyance. At noon it began to -lighten and when we reached Henson’s igloo, the wind -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>had ceased and the sun was trying to shine. Some -season’s ice and two narrow leads of recent ice were -crossed in this march. The rest of the way we had -heavy old floes, some of them the blue hummock kind, -on which the going was good, interrupted by old ruptures -and belts of rubble ice over which the going was -very bad. These places served as nets to catch all the -snow blown off the level places, and there it lay soft -and deep. It was going that would seriously discourage -an ordinary party, but my little brown -children of the ice cheerfully tooled their sledges -through it with the skill born of life-long experience -and habit.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The wind and thick weather came on again during -the night of the 4th and continued. We got under -way at 3:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> and found following the trail very -difficult in the diffused light, and possible only with -constant attention and straining of the eyes. This -was distinctly fatiguing, and added to the depressing -effect of the weather, was a strain which I made up -my mind to avoid as much as possible in future by -not travelling in thick weather except when compelled -to. The going for the first two hours was -through a zone of rafters and rubble with deep snow; -after that came old blue-topped floes (some of them -more massive than I had ever seen) interrupted by old -rafters.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In some places the floes were level, swept free of -snow in large patches, and beautifully blue. One -bit of season’s ice and two or three narrow leads, or -rather cracks, were crossed. I was not surprised at -the end of six hours to come upon Henson in camp -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>with his party. “Too thick to travel,” and all more -or less worried at being so far away, the hard travelling, -etc. I set my men building an igloo, and hoped -the sun would clear away the thick weather as it had -the day before, and give a chance to start soon. -While building my igloo a crack opened with a loud -noise nearly all round our place, greatly disturbing -Sipsu’s sensitive nerves. Later thick snow came -on with the increasing wind. Through carelessness -I frosted my entire left cheek during the march and -this I anticipated would cause me some annoyance as -it was in my heavy beard. After the igloo was built -my men overhauled and repaired their sledges thoroughly. -All night the wind and snow continued from -the west, and during the night (probably with the -turn of the tide) the cracks closed up with a good -deal of noise, ending with two severe bumps as our -floe came to a bearing all around.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the morning another movement began. Henson’s -igloo which was a little nearer the rafter than mine, -was shattered, and his men built another in the centre -of the floe and moved there. The spring tides of the -April full moon were running now, and with the wind -would probably open the “Hudson River” again. -Marvin, however, and I hoped Clark, should be well -over by this time with their supplies, and out on the -road. I hoped this storm would clear the condensation -out of the air, and give us another spell of -fine weather in which we might accomplish something.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ten days’ delay of Henson’s party, and seven -of mine, in fine weather, had been a terrible set-back. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>Without that we should have been beyond Abruzzi’s -highest now. As it was I was two degrees ahead of -four years ago, when I left Cape Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The wind and snow continued all night of the 6th -and the forenoon of the 7th, then the sun broke through -and showed that it was no longer snowing, though the -wind continued unabated accompanied by a furious -and blinding drift.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On this date Nansen reached his highest, and but -for the accursed lead, I should now have been ahead -of him. As it was I was behind him and stalled again. -Came on thick again during the night and continued -blowing and drifting without abatement. It seemed as -if it <i>must</i> clear off some time, but as yet there were no -signs of it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The wind continued its infernal howling past the -igloo and among the pinnacles of the rafter close by -all night. I was so comfortable physically, however -(barring my stumps which were always cold when I -was not walking, and sometimes even then) that there -was nothing to distract me from its hell-born music, -or keep me from thinking of the unbearable delay. -It seemed as if I had been here a month. The wind -which had been a little south of true west swung -more to the south, the drift was less dense, as if the -bulk of the snow were packed, and I fancied there -was less weight in the wind in the evening. I hoped to -God it would clear soon. I was curious also to see -if the continued blow had materially changed our -position to the east. There had been no detectable -disturbance in the ice since the morning of the 6th. -This could be accounted for in two ways; one that the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>ice was already jammed to the eastward, and the -old floes too heavy (and with no young ice between) -to permit any compacting or shutting up; the other -that the central pack (detached from the land ice -along the big lead) was moving eastward as one mass. -I could not help thinking that in the latter case, the -differences of wind pressure and water resistance of -the different floes would cause more or less motion -among them, or at least cause strains that would be -more pronounced. It would be surprising if the “Hudson” -was not wide open now, and I hoped Marvin and -Clark were across it with their supplies, and the former -near enough to overtake me in a march or two from -here. If the “Hudson” was open and they the other -side of it, it would necessitate a decided modification -of my plans, for the season was too late now for me -to wait for them to come up. I must push on with -what I had here, and take the chances of good going, -long marches, and the certainty of eating dog again -before I got back to land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 10th was another miserable day. The wind -not quite so violent, but still continuing with a heavy -drift that made travelling out of the question.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Temporarily at least I had got past chafing at -the delay and simply longed for the cessation of -the infernal music, and to see the bright sun -glinting on the ice-fields again, as a thin-blooded -invalid in winter longs for the soft breath of -summer.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I cheated as much of the time away as possible, -planning what I would do when I got back, and then -I ran against the black wall, unless I win <i>here</i>, all these -<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>things fall through. Success is what will give them -existence. Then I went over again what I should -do in the various contingencies, if it ever cleared, -but that did not take long. I knew what I should do -in every contingency I could think of.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And always through the black shadow of impending -failure showed the steady light of so many days nearer -my island and its people.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'>Another day, the sixth of the interminable gale. -Will it never end? The wind and drift continue with -unabated violence. For some three hours to-day, I -pushed, and butted, and at times almost crawled on -hands and knees, back and forth across the small -floe on which we are camped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This partly for exercise, partly because I could -no longer keep quiet, partly from a desire to determine -with certainty, whether, if I were made of sterner -stuff, I might not be travelling. I am perfectly -satisfied now. <i>No</i> party could travel in this gale, -not because of the cold, though that is not slight, but -because of the physical impossibility. To face the -gale would quickly wear out the strongest man living, -even if it were possible to expose the face directly for -more than an instant to the cutting drift. I am also -satisfied that the effect of the storm will not be to -make the travelling (if it ever clears) worse; or to -obliterate our trail from the “big lead” here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>All the new snow, and some of the old is being -scoured off the floes and deposited in the pressure -ridges, and the tracks of my sledges, dogs and men are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>left in relief. Six years ago to-day I left Conger for -the Greenland coast.</p> - -<p class='c008'>At last the unprecedented gale abated, or at any -rate temporarily suspended, enough for me to get -things moving.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After midnight the violence of the wind moderated, -and in the morning the sun was shining, though a considerable -drift was still running, and a heavy bank -of drift lay all around the horizon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Gradually this subsided, and I was able to get some -meridian observations with the transit. The drift -made the use of artificial horizon impracticable. These -observations gave our latitude 85° 12′, and our longitude -but slightly west of the ship at Sheridan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I immediately started Henson off with two of his -men, Panikpah and Pewahtoo, to push ahead, and at -the same time sent off his other man Sipsu, and one of -my men, Ahngodoblaho, to meet Marvin (if he was -north of the “big lead”), and to bring up the supplies -left in the small cache this side the lead if they did not -meet him. As I anticipated after the previous day’s -study of the matter, the storm had improved the going. -On the old floes where it had not scoured the snow -off entirely, it had packed it harder, and the patches -of rough ice, and the pressure ridges were now filled -with snow hammered in until it would bear a mule. -Our tracks were much more distinct than they were -six days before. To the north of us there was a large -floe stretching as far as could be seen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was a day of April weather, reminding me very -much of the ice-cap; blue sky with delicate “mare’s -<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>tail” clouds, then banks of fog, flurries of snow, and blue -sky again, with a continuous light W. S. W. wind carrying -a low drift along the surface. For several hours -there was a fog bank, probably caused by open leads.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was well that I had discounted the loss of my -provisions at the lead. Soon after midnight, my -two men returned reporting that they had lost the -trail beyond the first igloo south of where we were, -and had been stopped by open water and completely -shattered ice extending as far as they could see from -the highest pinnacles.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was evident that I could no longer count in the -slightest degree upon my supporting parties, and that -whatever was to be done now, must be done with -the party, the equipment, the supplies which I had -with me. Unfortunately the party was larger than -it need be (eight of us in all), and the supplies much -smaller than I could have wished. I gave my men -their supper and turned over for another nap while -they obtained a few hours’ sleep. I had no occasion -to think or worry, I knew already what I should do -in this contingency.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early in the morning we started after abandoning -everything which we did not absolutely need, and I -bent every energy to setting a record pace. In the -legacy of irretrievable damage which the storm had -left us was one small codicil of good. Such snow as the -wind had not torn from the face of the floes was beaten -and banked hard, and the snow which had fallen had -been hammered into the areas of rough ice and the -shattered edges of the big floes, so that they gave us -little trouble. North of Storm Camp we had no -occasion for snowshoes or pickaxes.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>The first march of ten hours, myself in the lead with -the compass, sometimes on a dog-trot, the sledges -following in Indian file with drivers running beside or -behind, placed us thirty miles to the good; my Eskimos -said forty.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the end of the march I was a tired man. Had -raised blisters on the bottom of both my feet, and soft -as I was after the days in camp, was sore in every -bone with the rapid pace, which was not less than three -miles an hour. My Eskimos insisted it was nearer four.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next day the wind was blowing a half gale from -west southwest (true) with a great deal of drift. But -we had no time to waste in camp, when possible to -travel at all.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Four and one-half hours after starting, we came -upon Henson camped beside a closed lead where he had -been for some twenty hours. He and his men claimed -that it had closed just before I arrived. As I passed -they hitched up and fell in behind my hurrying party. -We travelled ten hours, then camped in very thick -weather. During the march we traversed several -large level old floes, which my Eskimos at once remarked, -looked as if they did not move even in summer. -We also crossed eleven leads during the march which -however gave us no very serious trouble, a short detour -one way or the other always giving us an opportunity -to cross. Several berg-like pieces of ice discoloured -with sand were noted during the march, my Eskimos -saying that these looked as if we were near land. We -travelled at a good pace again during this march, -and I felt that we had covered thirty miles more. -I hoped that it was more than this even.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>When we started on the next march, it was clear -and bright with light wind and drift, but at noon a -dark bank swept over from the west and the wind -increased. At the end of the march we camped -beside an open lead some fifty feet wide, trending -apparently northeast and southwest, but it was now -so thick with the driving snow that it was not possible -to determine this with certainty. Building our igloos -at this camp was a disagreeable job in the violent -wind and driving snow. Our pace during this march -was not less than two and one-half miles per hour. -Several narrow leads were crossed and after noon we -travelled upon almost continuous one season ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this camp our stay in camp was longer than -usual owing to the continuance of the wind and snow. -While here, six worn-out dogs were killed and fed -to the others to save our small store of pemmican, -and the skeleton condition of these dogs as shown -when they were skinned, threw my men into a temporary -panic, as they said that the entire pack might -give out at any time and they wanted to turn back -from here, but I told them I was not ready to turn -back yet, and should not be until we had made at -least five more marches to the north.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>April 18th.</i>—What contrasts this country affords. -Yesterday hell, to-day comparative heaven, yet not such -heaven as most would voluntarily choose. The wind -died down during the night; this morning the position -of the sun was fairly discernible. Started early and -no serious trouble was experienced in crossing the lead -<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>as I had expected. Very rough going at first through -rafters and big drifts, then very decent for the remainder -of the march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This was the first entirely calm day since leaving -the big lead. Clear except for cirro strata running -east and west. We crossed much one season’s ice, -and some only a few days old. No old floes. Travelled -ten hours. We must be close to Abruzzi’s highest -now.</p> - -<p class='c008'>During this march the dogs were much excited at -one time by the scent of something to windward, and -for three or four miles struck such a pace that I found -it difficult to keep ahead of them even by running, -so stepped one side and let them pass. At the time -I thought it might possibly be a bear and was strongly -tempted to go in pursuit. Later I was very glad -that I did not, as the scent noticed by the dogs was -undoubtedly from a seal in an open lead.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As we advanced the character of the ice improved, -the floes became apparently larger and the rafters -more infrequent, but the cracks and narrow leads -increased and were nearly all active. These cracks -were uniformly at right angles to our course, and the -ice on the northern side was moving more rapidly -eastward than that on the southern. Our pace was -heart-breaking, particularly so as we were on scant -rations.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As dogs gave out, unable to keep the pace, they -were fed to the others. April 20th we came into a -region of open leads, trending nearly north and south, -and the ice motion became more pronounced. Hurrying -<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>on between these leads a forced march was made. -Then we slept a few hours, and starting again soon -after midnight, pushed on till a little before noon of -the 21st.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I should have liked to leave everything at this camp -and push on for the one march with one empty sledge -and one or two companions, but I did not dare to do -this owing to the condition of the ice, and was glad as -we advanced that I had not attempted it. I do not -know if any of my Eskimos would have remained -behind. In this last spurt we crossed fourteen cracks -and narrow leads, which almost without exception, -were in motion.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When my observations were taken and rapidly -figured, they showed that we had reached 87° 6′ -north latitude, and had at last beaten the record, -for which I thanked God with as good a grace as -possible, though I felt that the mere beating of the -record was but an empty bauble compared with the -splendid jewel on which I had set my heart for years, -and for which, on this expedition, I had almost literally -been straining my life out.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is perhaps an interesting illustration of the uncertainty -or complexity of human nature that my feelings -at this time were anything but the feelings of exultation -which it might be supposed that I should have. -As a matter of fact, they were just the reverse, and -my bitter disappointment combined perhaps with a -certain degree of physical exhaustion from our killing -pace on scant rations, gave me the deepest fit of -the blues that I experienced during the entire expedition.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>As can perhaps be imagined, I was more than anxious -to keep on, but as I looked at the drawn faces of my -comrades, at the skeleton figures of my few remaining -dogs, at my nearly empty sledges, and remembered -the drifting ice over which we had come and the unknown -quantity of the “big lead” between us and the -nearest land, I felt that I had cut the margin as narrow -as could reasonably be expected. I told my men -we should turn back from here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My flags were flung out from the summit of the -highest pinnacle near us, and a hundred feet or so -beyond this I left a bottle containing a brief record -and a piece of the silk flag which six years before I -had carried around the northern end of Greenland.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then we started to return to our last igloo, making -no camp here.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VII<br /> <span class='large'>FROM 87° 6′ TO THE GREENLAND COAST</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>From the time we left Storm Camp on the upward -march the wind had blown with greater or less -force, but without interruption, from a little south of -true west. Now as we retraced our steps it blew quartering -in our faces, and accompanied by a fine drift of snow, -cut like red-hot needles. We had already made a -good day’s march. Now we had to duplicate it without -rest or food. When at last we stumbled into camp -I was nearly blind from the effects of the cutting snow -and wind, and completely done up with the long -continued exertion. The interest and excitement of -the advance were gone, the reaction had come, and -my feet dragged like lead. As a matter of fact the -return journey, after the eagerness and excitement -of pushing ahead is over, is always the hardest part -of the work. Of the fourteen cracks and narrow leads -passed in this last forced march, all but three had -changed pronouncedly in the few hours elapsing between -our outward and return march, and two or -three of them had moved to such an extent that we -had some difficulty in picking up our trail on the -southern side of them. Once inside the igloo and the -oil stove started to make our tea, I rolled on the sleeping -platform in agony, with my burning eyes, and let -Ahngmalokto make the tea. For an hour or more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>I feared that the cutting wind and snow, together -with the strain upon my eyes in taking the observations, -had given me an acute attack of snow-blindness, -but I repeatedly buried my eyes in the freezing snow -until the eyelids were numb, and after a time experienced -sufficient relief, so that my utter weariness sent -me to dreamless sleep. All regrets and disappointment -had to yield temporarily to the imperious -demand of the overworked body.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this camp we took a full sleep, the last for several -days, then hurried on at top speed. Deep in my -heart I still had a lingering hope, fathered of course -by the wish, that Marvin might have crossed the big -lead before the storm came on, might have found -Storm Camp, and left provisions there for us in accordance -with my instructions left at the Storm Camp -igloos. I was very anxious, therefore, to keep our -outward trail, as far as Storm Camp, and now that the -number of my dogs had been reduced, and some of my -sledges discarded, I had spare men, and selecting two -of the most experienced trailers among my Eskimos, -I brought them alongside of me a few hundred yards -in advance of the sledges. Thus we travelled, the -three of us, with our eyes fixed upon the ice ahead, -noting each faintest indication of the trail. Whenever -the trail was faulted by the movement of the ice, -we spread out in skirmish line and veered to the right, -to the southwest, until we found it again. When we -came to a crack or lead too wide to jump the sledges -across, one of my Eskimos started to the right at once -on the run, the other to the left, and the one first finding -a practicable crossing signalled to the sledges in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>the rear, in the usual Eskimo way, with waving arm, -and the sledges made directly for him, we crossed the -lead, picked up the trail on the southern side and -went on. In this way the sledges lost no time, and we -were able to keep as rapid a pace on the return as on -the outward march, in spite of the movement of the ice -and the necessity of keeping the trail. The three of -us frequently ran for considerable distances, in order -to keep a sufficient space between us and the sledges -to enable us to reconnoitre the leads before the sledges -came up. At the end of every march we stumbled -into our old igloos utterly exhausted, with eyes aflame -from the wind and driving snow, but thanking God -that we did not have to put ourselves to the additional -effort of building igloos.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As in our outward so in our return journey, scarcely -for an hour did the wind cease its infernal rush and -hiss and assault upon our faces. The last march -into Storm Camp, which we reached God only knows -how, was in the teeth of another blinding western -blizzard with driving snow, through which none but -an Eskimo, and a very good one at that, could have -kept the trail for five minutes. Of course I found no -provisions here. Our igloos were lined with frost -crystals and nearly filled with drifting snow, but they -were havens of refuge from the howling elements outside, -which were more than appreciated. Ootah was -the happiest man in the party. Just before reaching -the igloos he had spied a small fragment of pemmican, -a crumb from somebody’s lunch dropped off the last -sledge when we started north from Storm Camp, and -he had pounced upon it and swallowed it just as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>if he were an Eskimo dog. At Storm Camp we were -held twenty-four hours by the continuance of the gale, -the ice groaning and grinding in the familiar way, -then resumed our march with the number of my dogs -still further reduced. From here I set a “bee-line” -course for the nearest part of the Greenland coast. -I alone of the party knew how far we had drifted and -that our salvation now lay in the direction of the -Greenland coast and its musk-oxen. My Eskimos -thought we were coming down on the Grant Land -coast which we had left; in fact, by some strange -perversion of ideas, they were all fixed in their belief -that we had been drifting westward. The only reason -for this was that the ice on the northern side of the -“big lead” had (so they said) before I joined them at -the lead, been drifting pronouncedly westward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we reached the region where my two Eskimos -had been stopped in their attempt to bring up the -cache from the “big lead,” I was not surprised at the -expressions of amazement and almost horror with -which they had returned to me. There was no open -water now, but the chaos of shattered and upheaved -ice which stretched away to the southward was indescribable. -Through this our progress was naturally -slow, but one grim and exhausting march, during -which the pickaxes were constantly in use, carried us -through.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the third march from Storm Camp we crossed -the scar of the “big lead.” By scar I mean where the -edges of the “big lead” had been driven together and -had frozen fast. There was no mistaking it, and I -foolishly allowed myself to be encouraged by the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>thought that this obstacle was at last behind us and -no longer to be feared. I should have known better -than to feel this way, for I certainly had sufficient -Arctic experience to know that one should never feel -encouraged at anything nor ever expect anything in -these regions except the worst. On the second march -south of the scar we came upon a region of huge pressure -ridges running in every direction. It was an -ominous sign, and I was not surprised a few hours -later when an Eskimo whom I had sent in advance to -reconnoitre a trail for the sledges, signalled to me -from the summit of a pinnacle “open water.” When -I climbed to his side there was our friend the “big -lead,” a broad band of black water, perhaps half a -mile in width, lying across our path and reaching -east and west farther than I could see. The lead here -was thirty to forty miles farther south than where we -had crossed it on the upward journey, but it was the -same lead.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I turned east keeping an Eskimo scouting close to -the lead in search of a practicable crossing while the -sledges advanced parallel to the lead but at some -distance from it, where the going was a little better.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Once he raised our hopes by signalling that he had -found it: but when the sledges came up the place was -impracticable. The next day we continued eastward -and found a mixture of half-congealed rubble ice, -barely sufficient to support us, spanning the lead. The -sledges were hurried on to this and we were within -a few yards of firm ice on the south side, when our -bridge failed us, and the ice under us began to go apart. -It was a rapid and uncertain but finally successful -<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>scramble to get back. We camped on a piece of big -floe bounded on one side by the steadily widening -lead, and on the other three by rafters of Alpine character. -Here we remained, drifting steadily eastward, -watching the lead slowly widen, as it had done on the -upward march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the upward march, when we were delayed at -the “big lead,” in the brilliant, bitter, March days, -and the ice on the distant northern side appeared to -my eager eyes like the promised land, I had given it -the name “The Hudson.” Now as we lay in this -dismal camp, watching the distant southern ice beyond -which lay the world, all that was near and dear, -and perhaps life itself, while on our side was only the -wide-stretching ice and possibly a lingering death, -there was but one appropriate name for its black -waters—“the Styx.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Each day the number of my dogs dwindled and -sledges were broken up to cook those of the animals -that we ate ourselves. But here let me say that -personally I have no objection whatever to dog, -if only there is enough of it. Serious Arctic work -quickly brings a man to consider quantity only in -connection with the food question. One day leads -formed entirely around the ice on which we were, making -it an island of two or three miles’ diameter.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Later, two Eskimo scouts whom I had sent east -to reconnoitre the lead came hurrying back breathless, -with the report that a few miles from camp -there was a film of young ice extending clear across -the lead—now something over two miles wide—which -they thought might support us on snowshoes. No -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>time was lost in hurrying to the place when it was -evident to us all that now was our chance or never, -and I gave the word to put on snowshoes and make -the attempt. I tied mine on more carefully than I -had ever done before. I think every other man did -the same, for we felt that a slip or stumble would -be fatal. We had already tested the ice and knew it -would not support us an instant without snowshoes.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we started it was with Panikpah, lightest -of us all and most experienced, in the lead, the few -remaining dogs attached to the long broad-runner -sledge—the “Morris K. Jesup”—following him, and -the rest of the party abreast in widely extended skirmish -line, fifty to sixty feet between each two men, some -distance behind the sledge. We crossed in silence, -each man busy with his thoughts and intent upon his -snowshoes. Frankly I do not care for more similar -experiences. Once started, we could not stop, we -could not lift our snowshoes. It was a matter of constantly -and smoothly gliding one past the other with -utmost care and evenness of pressure, and from every -man as he slid a snowshoe forward, undulations went -out in every direction through the thin film incrusting -the black water, The sledge was preceded and followed -by a broad swell. It was the first and only -time in all my Arctic work that I felt doubtful as to -the outcome, but when near the middle of the lead the -toe of my rear kamik as I slid forward from it broke -through twice in succession, I thought to myself -“this is the finish,” and when a little later there was -a cry from someone in the line, the words sprang -from me of themselves: “God help him, which one is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>it?” but I dared not take my eyes from the steady, -even gliding of my snowshoes, and the fascination -of the glassy swell at the toes of them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we stepped upon the firm ice on the southern -side of the lead, the sighs of relief from the two men -nearest me in the line on either side were distinctly -audible. I was more than glad myself. The cry I had -heard had been from one of my men whose toe, like -mine, had broken through the ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To give an illustration of the temperament of my -Eskimos, the temperament which fits them so especially -for Arctic work, the Chief Engineer of the -<i>Roosevelt</i> was rather a heavy man, weighing something -over 235 pounds; and as we stooped untying our snowshoes, -one of my men, Ahngmalokto, turned sidewise -to me and said, “Pearyaksoah, if the Chief had been -with us, he would be down there now (indicating the -depths below us), wouldn’t he?” And Ahngmalokto -was entirely right.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we stood up from unfastening our snowshoes, -and looked back for a moment before turning our -faces southward, a narrow black ribbon cut the frail -bridge on which we had crossed, in two. The lead -was widening again and we had just made it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice on the southern side of the lead was an -awful mess, and we climbed to the top of the highest -upheaved mass of it to see if we could make out any -practicable route through. To and beyond the horizon -extended such a hell of shattered ice as I had never -seen before and hope never to see again, a conglomeration -of fragments from the size of paving -stones to literally and without exaggeration the dome -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>of the Capitol, all rounded by the terrific grinding -they had received between the jaws of the “big lead” -when its edges were together and shearing past each -other. It did not seem as if anything not possessing -wings could negotiate it, and I turned to my men to -say a few encouraging words, but caught a glint in -their eyes and a setting of the jaws, such as I had noticed -before when they and I had been mixed up with a -roaring herd of infuriated bull walrus or facing a -wounded polar bear, and I shut my mouth and said -nothing, for I knew words were not necessary.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During this march and the next and part of the -next, we stumbled desperately southward through this -frozen Hades, constantly falling and receiving numerous -uncomfortable bruises. My uncushioned stumps -seemed to catch it especially, and it is no exaggeration -to say that at our first camp my jaws were actually -aching from the viciousness with which I had repeatedly -ground my teeth together during the march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the next march after we emerged from the southern -edge of the zone of shattered ice, we made out the -distant snow-clad summits of the Greenland mountains, -and this improved the spirits of my men. One -or two of them had said while waiting north of the -lead, that they could see land clouds from one of the -high pinnacles close by the lead, but I could make out -nothing, and the other Eskimos were not sure of it. -There could be no mistake in the matter now, and from -here on the going improved. There were very few -leads and these narrow and finally disappearing, there -was no perceptible movement of the ice, and I recognised -that we were now under the shelter of Cape -<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>Morris Jesup, and no longer in danger of drifting past -it and out into the East Greenland Sea.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the next march after sighting the land, we came -upon the trunk of a tree embedded in a large floe. -The part projecting from the ice was about nine or ten -feet long, and the diameter at the ice level some ten -or twelve inches. The wood was soft, apparently -fir, and a small specimen was taken to permit of possible -identification later on.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The land seemed bewitched and appeared every -night to move away from us as far as we had advanced -the day before. Slowly, however, its detail sharpened, -and I headed directly for the rolling bit of shore at -Cape Neumeyer, where I was positive we would find -a few hare and hoped that we might find musk-oxen -round in Mascart Inlet.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Finally, we dragged ourselves on to the ice-foot at -Cape Neumeyer and inside of an hour had four hare, -and very delicious they were, even though unassisted -by such frills as salt or fire.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Just before reaching the land we crossed a fresh -sledge trail running parallel with the land and heading -east. For a moment I thought it might be a party -looking for us, but an inspection of the trail showed -at once that it meant trouble. There were three -light dogs attached to a single sledge followed by four -men walking slowly and with irregular steps. I -thought it might be Marvin and his party, and as soon -as we had had a few hours’ sleep, I sent Ootah and -Ahngodoblaho eastward on the trail to find out just -what it did mean. The next day they returned with -Clark and his three Eskimos. They, like us, had been -<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>driven eastward, had come down upon the Greenland -coast, and Clark’s Eskimos like mine, possessed with -the crazy idea that they had drifted westward and -were coming down “the back side of Grant Land,” -as they expressed it, had insisted on turning east and -were going directly away from the ship. My two men -had found them a few miles east of our camp in what -would have been their last camp. They were exhausted, -had lived for a few days upon their spare -skin boots, had with them three apologies for dogs -which they were about to kill, and a little later would -have come the finish. With new life given by the news -that I was so near, they had summoned energy enough -to walk to our camp, but they came in skull-faced -and wavering in gait. Fortunately I could give them -something to eat, as more hare had been killed since -the two men went out. I had also sent two men, with -an exhausted dog for rations, round into Mascart -Inlet to look for musk-oxen, and while awaiting their -return, I climbed to the highest point in the neighbourhood -of the Cape, after sending out two other -Eskimos for hare, where I could examine the going as -far as Britannia and Beaumont Islands. I was very -thankful to see that the edge of the bay-ice was farther -off than in 1900, and that the surface across the bays -was smooth and level. I knew that it was likely to -be more or less soft, but we had our snowshoes with -us, and it is surprising what distance men with a -little dogged sand in them can cover, even though -half-starved and almost exhausted, when it is simply -a matter of throwing one’s weight forward a little and -sliding one snowshoe past the other, until the last -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>minute of endurance is reached. My Mascart Inlet -men came back unsuccessful, but the two hare-hunters -brought in six, and this made things look somewhat -brighter. As can readily be understood, however, -the addition of four starving men to my party of eight -half-famished ones in no way lightened my responsibilities. -One thing was in my favour. The sledge journey -along this coast in 1900 had shown me the places where -the musk-oxen which must be our salvation would -most likely be found, and leaving Cape Neumeyer, -I led the trail past the end of Ellison Island, and thence -through the channel between Britannia Island and -Nares Land, in order to examine the coast from Nares -Land to Cape May.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VIII<br /> <span class='large'>ALONG THE GREENLAND COAST TO THE ROOSEVELT</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>Wearily we started westward to regain the -<i>Roosevelt</i> and I kept an Eskimo constantly -scouting the shore abreast of our line of march, looking -for hare, but musk-oxen were to be our salvation and -instead of setting an air-line course for the north end -of Britannia Island on the route which I had followed -in 1900, I determined to go straight for the north -end of Ellison Island and thence round the southern -end of Britannia Island through the passage between -it and the mainland, and from there along the coast -to Cape May and Cape Bryant, as I felt satisfied that -on Nares Land and in the neighbourhood of Cape May -we should find musk-oxen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our first camp was just off the precipitous black -northern point of Ellison Island. Clark and Pooblah -of his party did not come in till three hours after the -rest of us. They could just barely crawl along. When -we left camp I started them off as soon as they had -their tea, they travelled so slowly. Fine weather, clear -and calm, and we headed for the south end of -Britannia.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Arriving at the point, which is low, I sent Panikpah -across overland to look for hare. Soon after rounding -the point and heading for Cape May we heard one -shot. We travelled just as long as we possibly could, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>everyone crawling along and Clark and Pooblah out -of sight in the rear. The snow was about three feet -deep; impracticable for a party without snowshoes, -but affording good snowshoeing for a party with snowshoes -and in good condition. For us it was heavy -work. We camped on the ice at the intersection of -a line between Victoria Inlet and Beaumont Island, and -our course. Just before stopping I heard another -shot from Panikpah. We had killed a dog for supper -and were cutting it up when Ootah, who was carefully -examining the land with the glass, yelled—“<i>Ooming-muksue!</i>” -(Musk-oxen.) The cry electrified us all. -I jumped out of the tent and found him looking at -the Nares Land shore, seized the glass, and made out -seven black spots on top of the shore bluff apparently -right over the ice-foot.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I grabbed my mittens, tied on my snowshoes, told one -man to get my carbine and cartridges, and the others -to hitch the dogs to the empty sledge, and started -off as I was, in my blanket shirt, having thrown off -my <i>kooletah</i> (deerskin coat) while working over the -cooker in the tent making tea.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I was as foolish as the others, and only when some -distance from the tent and I realised that I was running, -did I come to my senses.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was too late to go back for my <i>kooletah</i> and the -oil-stove cooker, but I did call a halt on the pace -which in our excitement we were making.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The musk-oxen were not less than six miles away -and we, weak and footsore, on top of a day’s trying -march, were running in our eagerness. Yet every -once in a while I found myself unconsciously hurrying. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>There were nine of us, Henson, myself and seven -Eskimos. Clark and Pooblah and Panikpah had not -reached camp when we started. Less than half-way -over Henson dropped out and went back. I should -have been glad to, but the musk-oxen meant too much -to us. I felt the safety of the party resting on me, we -had scant cartridges, could not afford to waste one, -and I could not trust my excited men.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When within a couple of miles of the animals I began -to worry. We were in plain sight of them and it -seemed as if our snowshoes made a noise like thunder. -Then I feared the few things of hair and bone which -we called dogs would not have strength to round up our -quarry.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When within a mile I put two Eskimos in advance -with two dogs and followed close behind with my -carbine.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the gray dog saw the musk-oxen and was -loosened, my fear came on again; had he strength -enough to overtake them and then to dodge their horns?</p> - -<p class='c009'>The shore here was a steep bank like a railway fill, -with a slope of about 30 degrees and three hundred -feet or more in height. The animals were just a little -back of the crest of the bank.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Like a thin shadow the gray dog went straight up the -slope, the little black bitch following, and I saw the -musk-oxen start to run, then round-up together. -Then as the crest of the slope hid them from me, I -saw the body of the poor bitch go into the air from the -horns of the bull. Poor thing, she had been very -faithful but her courage was greater than her strength, -and the sharp horns had been too quick for her. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>Should I be in time, or would the bull send the gray -dog after the bitch, and then put miles of snow and -rocks between us and his shaggy harem before they -stopped?</p> - -<p class='c009'>I went up the slope as rapidly as possible but there -was no hurry in me, my heart was pounding till the -crest of the slope above me danced like the Northern -Lights, and mouth and nostrils together could not -feed air to me half fast enough. The two Eskimos -who had the dogs were just ahead of me, Ahngmalokto -beside me, and the other four lying on the ice-foot -getting their breath. Mounting the crest I saw -the musk-oxen in the usual stellar group of shaggy -forms, white horns and gleaming eyes; the body of -the bitch lying a short distance away, and the gray -dog worrying the bull and dodging his vicious charges. -Poor beggar, his weak legs bent beneath him, he -stumbled repeatedly in trying to avoid the charges of -the bull, and the heaving of his gaunt sides was painful -to see, but the blood lust shone in his eyes, the wolf -heart of his fathers kept him to his work, and every -time the bull swung back to the herd, he returned to -the attack.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“Hold them for a moment or two longer, brave gray, -till I get my breath, then both of us will eat our fill.”</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span> -<img src='images/i_157.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>A SAMPLE OF THE ARCTIC PACK</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span> -<img src='images/i_158.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AS THEY ROUNDED UP</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_158b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AFTER THE KILLING</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>THE HERD OF MUSK-OXEN, NARES LAND</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>I kicked off my snowshoes and sat down upon them -for a moment to pull myself together. In that moment -there passed before me all the weary days since we -went on scant rations; the grim daily grind; the -dismal waiting at the Styx for a chance to regain the -world; the heart-breaking work through the shattered -ice; the infernal groaning and crashing of the floes; -the ever-present nightmare of more open water; the -incessant gnawing under the belt; the bruised and -aching feet; the burning eyes and face; the growing -weakness; the tantalising mouthfuls of hare since we -reached the land, and always this hope and picture -before me, waking or sleeping—a herd of musk-oxen -that should once more permit us to eat our fill. Here -it was, now to business. I dropped my mittens, -threw a cartridge into the barrel of my carbine, and -advanced toward the herd. Faithful Ahngmalokto -cried out—“Don’t go so near, Peary,” but this puny -herd of musk-oxen was a trifle compared with the lead -whose black embrace we had all faced, and I stepped -between the gray dog and the bull. Crack! a tiny -tuft of hair flew out from just back of the bull’s fore shoulder -and he had something beside the gray dog -to think of, though he did not go down. My bullet -had missed his heart and gone through his lungs. -Crack! the other bull made a jump forward, stopped, -staggered a step or two backward, then lurched over -on his side. My aim was better. Crack! Crack! -the two old cows followed suit. Crack! the younger -cow went the same way. The two yearlings were -standing side by side close together, rigid with fright. -Two or three steps to one side brought their fore shoulders -in line; crack! the one bullet went through both -their hearts and “pinged” on a rock beyond, as one -fell on the other. I was one cartridge to the good and -this I gave to the big bull as an act of mercy to put -him out of his misery, standing there with braced feet, -and blood-clogged nostrils, struggling for breath. I -could not help thinking, as he went down, that it was a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>shame to enter their quiet lives in this murderous way. -But their lives had been peaceful and their end was -quick, while we had walked through the outskirts of -hell, and had been dying by inches, and anyway what -would it matter to any of us a hundred years from -now—their bones bleaching here on these Arctic -slopes, mine—where?</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had been through this same thing eleven years -before, but such experiences do not increase a man’s -elasticity. I threw myself down on the body of the -bull as being less cold and hard than the snow, and -heard the shouts of my Eskimos as they rushed at the -carcasses; then the clicking of the knives and smacking -of lips. Then the cold compelled me to pull myself -together. Wet with perspiration next the skin and -coated with frost outside, I knew the unpleasant hours -before me and eating a few mouthfuls of raw meat, -hastened to roll myself in one of the skins in the effort -to get warm. It was no use. Wet as I was and weak -and tired, the green skin seemed to be no protection -against the biting wind, and for the next twelve hours -I shivered and ached in my blanket shirt while the -Eskimos and dogs ate till they were near bursting.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then the tent, the little remaining camp gear, and -the remainder of the party were brought up. Perhaps -an hour before they arrived the wind came sweeping -across the land with still greater force, increasing my -discomfort, and I was more than glad to be able to -crawl into the tent, where the night (owing to the -wind), seemed the coldest of the entire trip.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This herd of musk-oxen comprised one large bull, -one smaller bull with slightly deformed horns, two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>adult cows, one with a calf a few days old; the other -ready to calve in a day or two, one small cow, and two -yearlings, one male and one female.</p> - -<p class='c009'>All the animals were very thin, looking almost like -skeletons when their skins were removed, but their -paunches were full, and their coats in good condition, -not at all ragged as were those of the Independence -Bay musk-oxen at the same time of the year in 1892 -and 1895. The animals were also smaller and the -patch on the back perceptibly whiter than the Grant -Land musk-oxen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The tent was pitched as soon as it came up, then a -circular wind-guard was built of snow blocks, the -meat and bones dragged close to it, the skins spread -inside, a tiny fire started with some willow twigs -gathered in the vicinity, and helped out by pieces of -a sledge, then my Eskimos sat themselves round and -with occasional brief winks of sleep ate continuously -for nearly two days and nights. I did my share too, -and at the end of the time the pile of cleaned bones -about the shelter was almost beyond belief. When -I use the word cleaned I use it in its fullest sense. -When a hungry Eskimo leaves a bone a fly could not -find a mouthful about it. The meat has been gnawed -off, the periosteum stripped off with the teeth like the -bark from a twig, the bone split, the marrow removed, -and the cavity sucked and licked till it is dry.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our first march from the musk-oxen carried us -abreast of Stephenson Island and was a particularly -dragging one. The debilitating effect of our very -generous diet of meat, much of which was eaten -raw, did not show itself so much while we were -<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>quiescent in camp, but was very pronounced when we -undertook to travel. I imagined at least that I felt -weaker than at any time during the return, but my head -was much more active, and I cheated the time away as I -tramped mechanically in an air-line toward Cape May -setting the trail for the rest of the party to follow, by -plans for my western trip to be undertaken after we -got back to the <i>Roosevelt</i>, and even went beyond the -bounds of the present expedition and lifted myself -out of the weary drag of our present surroundings by -thoughts of home matters.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next march brought us to Cape May, where we -found numbers of hare tracks but did not secure any -of the animals. A few willow twigs obtained here -enabled us to cook some of the pieces of remaining meat.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had hoped on the next march to reach Cape Bryant -and so be in a position to scout the neighbouring country -for the musk-oxen which I felt sure we should find -in the region from Cape Bryant to Repulse Harbour. -Our strength, however, was not equal to the entire -width of Sherard Osborn and St. George’s fiords at -one pull, and we camped on the ice some four or five -miles east of Cape Bryant. At this camp we finished -the last of the musk-ox meat. Feeling sure that we -should find musk-oxen in the rolling country from Cape -Bryant westward I had made no attempt to restrain -my men, and both during the march and while in camp -they were eating continuously when not asleep. From -this camp the entire shore from Cape Bryant into St. -George’s Fiord was very carefully examined with the -spy glass for musk-oxen or their tracks, but without -success.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>In the next march we proceeded to Cape Bryant -where we came upon sledge-tracks several days old -coming in from the north. An examination of these -tracks developed the fact that there were two sledges -and that the party with them had proceeded to a -considerable eminence south and east of Cape Bryant -evidently for the purpose of reconnoitring and then -having obtained their bearings had taken the ice-foot -around Cape Bryant and proceeded southwest ward -along the coast. I felt there could be no doubt but -that this was Marvin’s party, but there were no indications -in the trail to show that that they were in serious -straits.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This general scattering of my supporting parties, -however, gave me a great deal of uneasiness as to -Ryan and his party, and whether they had reached -some of the other parties before the storm came on. -The parties of the Captain and the Doctor being nearer -land than the others, would, I felt sure, have been more -out of the sweep of the drift than the others, and would -probably have no serious difficulty in regaining the -Grant Land coast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At Cape Bryant I started two Eskimos with carbine -and cartridges overland to travel about parallel with -the shore and a few miles from it, in order to detect -any traces of musk-oxen in the region. They had -instructions to return to the shore a little east of Hand -Bay at a place which I designated as being where we -would camp for the night. Following the ice-foot we -passed the cache of musk-ox meat which my supporting -party Ootah and Pooblah, returning from Britannia -Island in the spring of 1900, had obtained and left for me.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>The two hunters joined us at the place designated -for camp, and reported seeing no recent traces of musk-oxen. -They had seen two hare but these were too -wild for them to obtain a shot. So sure did I feel -that there must be musk-oxen somewhere in the region -about Hand and Frankford Bays that after we had -had our tea I started two other men off with rifles, -cartridges, matches, and a little oil, and an empty oil-tin -for melting water, to work round the heads of -these bays and join us at a place just east of the Black -Horn cliffs some time during our stay there at the end -of the next march. This gave them about twenty-four -hours. Our stay at this camp and our march from -here to the eastern end of the Black Horn cliffs was -rendered disagreeable by a bitter and penetrating -gale from the west accompanied by snow. The men -rejoined us at this camp having been entirely unsuccessful, -and feeling much disheartened that they -had not even seen traces of musk-oxen, so we all went -back to our diet of dog. I could not understand the -present absence of musk-oxen in this region as it is a -very considerable area connecting with the rolling -country in the neighbourhood of St. George’s and -Sherard Osborn fiords, and the seven musk-oxen -which we killed here in 1900 certainly could not have -been the only animals in the locality. The only possible -explanation seemed to be that the animals might -just at this time be way in at the heads of the fiords.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From a point of vantage well up the bluffs there was -no indication of open water in front of the Black Horn -cliffs as there had been both going and coming in 1900, -and on leaving this camp we negotiated this difficult -<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>and treacherous part of the journey along the northwest -coast of Greenland, without serious difficulty. -We found no water, the pack ice in front of the cliffs -was fairly decent, and the ice-foot extending up to the -cliffs on both sides was passable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two men sent overland back of the cliffs from the -camp to the east, rejoined us on the west side of the -cliffs. They had secured one hare which they ate in -accordance with my instructions. We saw where they -had killed two ptarmigan near the ice-foot and had -eaten them raw all except the feathers, not even throwing -away the feet or intestines. When they rejoined -us Ootah was still carrying and greedily sucking the -well-cleaned skin of the hare. Our camp at the end -of this march was at Repulse Harbour. All the way -from the western end of the cliffs to the harbour we -faced a strong and bitter wind and drift. We were -now where Beaumont wrote and left his magnificent -record of human endurance and courage ending with -“God help us.” We were not as bad off as he and -his party. We could all of us walk yet and I believed -would all be able to walk to the ship, but it was essential -that we get across the channel at once. We were -getting weaker every day.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the bluffs back of our camp after we had had -our tea we could make out the <i>Roosevelt</i> lying at Sheridan, -and my men were very much encouraged at the -sight. It was a gratifying sight to me as well, for -while I had not allowed myself to worry or lose sleep -thinking about what might happen to the ship during -our absence, I had of course, been fully aware that -the storm which sent us so far to the eastward, might -<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>have caused such motion in the ice at Sheridan as to -heave the <i>Roosevelt</i> up high and dry on the ice-foot, -and in our present condition the idea of tramping all -those weary miles which I knew so well between Cape -Sheridan and our cache at Bache Peninsula did not -appear at all attractive. As far as we could make -out with the glasses, however, the ship appeared -to be just as we left her.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this camp we cached everything but instruments -and records to be brought in later, and headed across -Robeson Channel for a point a little north of Cape -Union, the only direction in which our reconnaissance -with the glass from the top of the cliffs showed the ice -to be practicable. We passed a blinding day at our -camp under the lee of a big ice hummock in the Channel, -several miles off the Grant Land coast. Everyone -was completely used up with the unwonted exertion -of stumbling over the rough ice after our recent marches -upon the nearly dead level snow surface along the -Greenland coast. Clark did not come in until very -late. Pooblah, the lame Eskimo, did not come in at -all. I was partially snow-blind. I had hoped after -a few hours’ sleep and rest here to push right on to the -ship, but what with hunger and fatigue no one seemed -able to sleep, and finally I told the men they could -kill another dog. They hesitated at first saying they -thought that we and the three remaining dogs would -be able to walk to the ship without anything more -to eat, but finally their hunger became too great and -another poor crawling skeleton was killed and devoured. -After the feed Ootah and another suggested -going in to the ship to send someone out with food -<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>for us but I vetoed the idea at once. I had always -hitherto been able to get back from my trips without -assistance, and intended to do so now.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Three hours of the next march put us on the ice-foot -north of Cape Union and as we stepped upon it -Ootah exclaimed “<i>Tigerahshua keesha, koyonni!</i>” (freely -translated, “We have arrived at last, thank God!”) -Ahngodoblaho who was very lame remained behind -in the camp, and Clark, who was making rather heavy -weather of it, fell rapidly behind from the very first, -but I told him to work along as best he could and take -it easy, that as soon as I reached the ship I should send -someone back to him with something to eat. I think -I never shall forget the march from there to the -<i>Roosevelt</i>. At risk of being regarded as imaginative -I may say that it actually seemed to us as if we had -arrived in God’s country once more. It was a perfect -night, clear and calm, the sunlight softly brilliant and -the rich warm colours of the cliffs offering to our eyes -a very decided contrast to the savage pinnacles of -the sea ice and the snow-covered Greenland coast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From where we landed the hard level ice-foot -presented the best of walking, and we made good time -to Cape Rawson. As we rounded it the slender spars -of the <i>Roosevelt</i> looked very, very beautiful in the yellow -midnight May sunlight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Long before we reached the ship some of the Eskimos -in the shore settlement spied us, I saw them scurrying -across the ice-foot to the ship, and a few moments -later several figures came out from the ship to meet us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Arrived on board I immediately sent two Eskimos -and teams back with food and stimulants to bring in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>the three stragglers. I learned that Marvin and Ryan -and some Eskimos had left for the Greenland coast in -search of Clark, and that Captain Bartlett and Dr. -Wolf were still pegging away at the work north of -Hecla. I sent a messenger to recall Marvin, and -another with a letter to Hecla to reach Captain Bartlett -as soon as he arrived.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then to my room where I quickly ripped my rank -fur clothing from myself, and threw it out on the -quarter-deck; then to my bath. After that, my -dinner, a real dinner with real food such as civilised -men eat; and then to my blankets and to sleep, unmindful -of the morrow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal of the next day:</p> - -<p class='c008'>What a delicious thing rest is. With Jo’s picture -on the wall above my head, with my face buried -in Ahnighito’s pillow of Eagle Island fir needles, and -its exquisitely delicious fragrance in my nostrils, I for -the moment echo from the bottom of my heart -Ootah’s remark, “I have got back again, thank God!” -Yet I know that a little later I shall feel that I might -have done more and yet got back, and yet again still -deeper down I know that we went to the very limit -and that had we not got across the “big lead,” when we -did, we should not have returned.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since reaching the ship I have had an aversion to -pencil and paper, and have only cared to lie and think -and plan. To think after all the preparation, the -experience, the effort, the strain, the chances taken, -and the wearing of myself and party to the last inch, -what a little journey it is on the map and how far short -<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>of my hopes it fell. To think that I have failed once -more; that I shall never have a chance to win -again. Then to put this useless repining aside, -and plan for my western trip, and when I have -done my duty by this, to plan for mine and Eagle -Island.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IX<br /> <span class='large'>WESTWARD OVER THE GLACIAL FRINGE OF GRANT LAND</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>The weather for the week following our return to -the ship was of the most disagreeable character, -beginning within twenty-four hours of our arrival, with -a violent southerly gale which swept up the channel -with great fury, and was followed by continuous thick -weather, with a pronounced rise in temperature, frequent -winds and snow. I congratulated myself every -day that we got in just in time. The gale combined -with the prolonged thick weather and the invariable -drop in the physical barometer accompanying such -rises of temperature, might in our condition have proved -the last straw.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I called my Eskimos together and told them they -had done good work, and now they could rest till the -ship started for home, and could either stay about -the ship, or go in to Lake Hazen, or to Fort Conger with -their families.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For myself and the others there was still work of -value to be accomplished in the weeks remaining before -the <i>Roosevelt</i> would be free, and the programme of -this work shaped itself.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Captain Bartlett would take lines of soundings -across Robeson Channel, Marvin would run a line of -soundings as far north from Hecla as practicable. -The Doctor would utilise the time collecting specimens -<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>and in making a trip to Conger and I would go west -and endeavour to fill in the unknown gap in the Grant -Land Coast, between Aldrich’s and Sverdrup’s -“farthest.” There were just dogs enough for this -programme. Forty odd out of 120 had survived the -spring campaign.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The change to the ship was so great after our months -of roughing it, that I found it impossible to sleep more -than a few hours at a time, and I had some trouble -in controlling my appetite, but compromised by eating -frequently and lightly.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My feet and legs swelled in a way that might have -troubled a novice, but having been through it all -before, I did not give myself any worry. Henson, -and particularly Clark, were a good deal disturbed by -theirs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The preparation for the western trip gave me little -trouble. I had worked out the complete list of supplies, -equipment, etc., while tramping mechanically -along the Greenland coast, and had jotted the items down -while in camp, so now I had simply to give my instructions -for such and such things to be made and assembled.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I left the <i>Roosevelt</i> about noon of June 2d with Marvin, -Murphy the ‘Bo’sun,’ Koolootingwah, Egingwah, Ooblooyah, -Tungwee, “Teddy,” and Koodlooktoo, with -six sledges and thirty-nine dogs. The weather was -thick, warm and oppressive, and we were four and one-half -hours working through soft snow, four to six -inches deep, to Williams Island in Black Cliffs Bay. -Here the Primus stoves, which I took on this trip as -an experiment, refused to burn, and I sent Koodlooktoo -back to the ship for others.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span> -<img src='images/i_175.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>EGINGWAH AND THE MORRIS K. JESUP SLEDGE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_175b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MY ENTIRE WESTERN PARTY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>ON THE ROAD TO CAPE COLUMBIA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span> -<img src='images/i_176.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE TWIN PEAKS AT CAPE COLUMBIA, WITH THE MORRIS K. JESUP SLEDGE IN THE FOREGROUND</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>My new tent was only partially dry from its recent -waterproofing, and was still sticky and ill smelling, and -soiled hands and clothing, and everything that came -in contact with it. I was stiff, sore, short of wind and -my feet and legs swollen. Altogether it was rather a -disagreeable “first night.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Koodlooktoo returned about 3 o’clock in the morning -and we got away soon after. During our stay at this -camp it was cloudy and foggy but this gradually cleared -away as we marched and the sun got higher. Near -Cape Creswell we met the Captain and I took one of -his men and his best dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He told me he was intending to go back out on the -trail again, if he had not received my letter. After -a short stop, he continued on to the ship, and I kept -on my way for six and one-half hours through soft -snow, one foot to two feet thick, to the ice-foot west -of View Point. I intentionally made this a short -march in order to get round to night marches. A -brilliant day and evening.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We left this camp soon after midnight and reached -Cape Hecla in six and one-half hours across Fielden -Peninsula. The snow was hard at first, then very -deep. A brilliant night. This made seventeen and one-half -marching hours from Cape Sheridan to Cape -Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Point Moss, June 5th.</i>—What with overhauling the -sounding apparatus, seeing that Marvin’s outfit and -supplies were complete, writing his instructions, selecting -the things to go back to the ship from the cache at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>Hecla, and those to take with me to supplement the -Point Moss cache, sending instructions to the Captain, -and invoicing and putting in order what was to remain -at Hecla, I got but an hour’s sleep there.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Marvin got away about 10:30 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, the two boys, -Koodlooktoo and Itookashoo, going with him to take -part of my loads out on to the level bay-ice west of -Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When they returned I fitted them out with their -loads for the ship, moved everything from the ice-foot -well up the rock talus of the Cape, started them -off and then got away with my party about an hour -after midnight. Finest of weather all the time, clear and -calm. There is more snow now than in March. It is -firm enough to support the dogs, but the sledges -sink much of the time, and a man needs snow shoes -continually.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Three months to a day since I left Hecla the last -time. It seems an age. Twenty years ago to-day I -crossed the Arctic Circle for the first time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We came on to Point Moss in five and one-half hours. -The entire depth of Clements Markham Inlet visible. -Distinctive names for the prominent mountains lying -east and west south of the Inlet, would be Streaked, -Camel, Saddle, Twin.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here at Point Moss I have had eight hours’ good sleep, -and for the first time in a long time have leisure after -breakfast to let my breakfast settle a little before -hurrying off. With no vital necessity for hurry, and -with nothing to look out for but my own small party, -this is very agreeable. I shall finally arrange my -loads here, and when we make our next camp beyond -here, I hope to feel that I am really straightened out -for my trip.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span> -<img src='images/i_179.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>LIVE BULL MUSK-OX AT CLOSE QUARTERS—CAPE COLUMBIA</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span> -<img src='images/i_180.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>MUSK-OX AT CAPE COLUMBIA<br /><br />The same animal as shown in the preceding picture, in death struggles, showing the massiveness of the head and horns</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>Our next camp west of Point Moss was off Challenger -Point. The march was made in fine weather and we -encountered for the first time, what later became a -constant and striking feature of the glacial fringe, the -long, prairie-like swells of its surface. My wind was -improving, the swelling in my legs going down and I -felt that I was getting in shape again. As we came -along, we kept a sharp lookout on the shore with the -glasses for musk-oxen, but did not see any. Just -before turning in, a dark spot under Columbia ahead -of us had every appearance of being a musk-ox asleep. -The snow at this camp was three feet deep.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We left the camp off Challenger Point at ten at -night and headed straight for the point of Cape Columbia, -studying the shore very carefully with the glasses. -At last our dark object of the day before was located -again, a musk-ox feeding on a little plateau, and I -went away at once with Koolootingwah and two dogs -and secured the animal with one shot, after taking a -number of photos at short range.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the elevation where he was, open water could -be seen extending all along the edge of the ice-foot. -The swells which we traversed coming from Point Moss, -showed up beautifully from here as parallel swells following -the main contour of the shore. When the two -men came up with the sledges I found that they had -utilised their time while waiting, in locating four more -musk-oxen farther inland.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Examined from our elevation with the glass, we -saw that there were six. We went away after these, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>and I secured five (one bull, two cows, one two-year-old -heifer, and a two-year-old bull) with five shots. -One bull had separated from the rest before we -arrived, and I did not go after him.</p> - -<p class='c009'>These cows had whiter backs than the bulls, and a -pronounced white spot between the horns. We skinned -the animals, cut them up, fed the dogs on the refuse, -and brought the meat and skins out to where I had -killed the single bull. Then we had a grand feed. -Numerous hare, sandpipers, snow-buntings, and bluebottle -flies, also several caterpillars were seen here. -We camped on the bare dry gravel near the musk-ox -and found it a great relief from the blinding glare of the -ice. Plenty of water nearby.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Cape Nares, June 8th.</i>—To-day has seen the accomplishment -of what I planned last fall, almost as soon as -the <i>Roosevelt</i> reached Cape Sheridan: the building of a -cairn, the display of the Stars and Stripes and the placing -of my record and a piece of the flag, on the summit of -Cape Columbia, the northern extremity of North America.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Caching the meat and getting the musk-ox skins -stretched to dry in the sun took some time, and we did -not get under way till 10:30 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of the 7th, the fine -weather continuing, though a fresh breeze from the -west, heavy clouds over the land to the southwest and -a bank of clouds to the north threatened a change.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 12:30 this morning, I stopped the sledges at the -foot of the northern twin peak of Columbia, and began -the ascent with two Eskimos, leaving one to look after -the dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>The peak is a steep conical pile of loose stones, and -though only 1,800 feet high, it took us two hours to -make the ascent. I am very much below par, even -more than I thought, no wind and no strength. -Obliged to stop every little way and rest. Arrived at -the top we built a cairn about five feet high and four -to five feet in diameter, with an ash pole in the centre, -hoisted my flag, took some photos, placed a record and -piece of the flag in a tin inside the cairn, then made the -descent down a steep snow-bank, plunging rapidly and -making fast time, though at the expense of my stumps.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The weather was now growing more threatening, -and two or three times banks of fog had momentarily -enveloped us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We started west again and came on to Cape Nares -where we camped on a patch of bare gravel near two -conical mounds (similar to those on the ice-cap of -Greenland) a few hundred yards out from the base of -the cliffs. We found abundant water close by. The -wind was now increasing, the sky entirely overcast -and there was every indication of a storm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Before midnight the wind was blowing, the snow -driving in horizontal lines against the tent, which was -flapping and complaining loudly.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This has continued ever since but appears to be -moderating now.</p> - -<p class='c008'>About 3 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 9th the weather moderated, but -I did not care to start then and get into day-travelling -again, so I sent Ooblooyah and Egingwah back to -Cape Columbia to feed the dogs and bring the rest of -the bull musk-ox meat up.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>We slept almost continually while here and so made -up for lost time. To me it was particularly acceptable. -Since my return to the ship, I slept very irregularly -and not a great deal, owing to the change from snowhouse -and tent, to the ship; and since starting on this -trip, what with getting things arranged at Cape Hecla -and Point Moss, and then killing the musk-oxen, and -the Eskimos running in and out all the time, eating, -and drying their clothing, I had slept very little.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here with their stomachs full, and no chance to -putter with their clothes, they have stayed in the tent -and slept. The wind and snow have also made the -temperature of the tent low enough for comfortable -sleeping.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My two men came back from Columbia at noon, -the dogs were fed all they could eat, we ourselves had -a generous feed of musk-ox and tea, then turned in, -the indications being that the dirty weather was nearly -at an end, and that by night we should have it fine -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 7 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> I woke to find it snowing and blowing -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I made coffee and we hitched up and came on to -Ward Hunt Island in a driving northerly snowstorm, -through some six inches of soft snow on top of the old -snow and constantly increasing in depth.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Owing to my disinclination to exert myself in going -ahead on snowshoes to set the course, it was impossible -to drive the dogs straight, and we came outside -the island instead of inside.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Soon after camping it began to clear, and during -the day while we slept, the sun shone bright and warm -<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>though the land was covered with clouds and fog, -and only the nearer portions visible.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After this we had a fine travelling night, clear, cool -and calm, and came on to “Rainbow Hill,” Cape -Alexandra, in eight hours. The new light snow made -fine snowshoeing, but was very heavy for the dogs and -sledges; and this heaviness was accentuated in the -series of rolling swells which are a feature of this peculiar -ice-foot (?) along here. These swells are on a -large scale, and reminded me very strongly of portions -of the ice-cap of Greenland. If they are not huge -drifts, I do not know how to account for them. Off -Ward Hunt Island and especially the western end, they -are particularly marked, and here they blend into -drifts formed in the lee of the island.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We camped at Cape Alexandra on a patch of bare, -dry gravel near what seemed to be the site of a river.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As the tent was set up, two brant flew over. A fine -supper here of musk-ox steak, bacon, tea and biscuits, -after which I sent two men up the valley to look -for musk-ox, deer and hare. During this march a man -without snowshoes would go in about knee deep.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My two men returned before noon with three hare, -all small and with very long ears. It occurred to me -this might be a new species or variety. The head of -one was turning brown. One female contained five -young, ready for delivery.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My men saw twelve hare in all. They also saw the -tracks of a large bull musk-ox, made before the recent -snowfall, going east, and the antlers of a deer.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A fine, warm, sunny day enabled us to dry out our -clothing and gear, all wet from the recent snowfall.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>Up to this time, I had not encroached upon the store -of pemmican with which I left Point Moss, the captain’s -small cache of four cans just making the one feed which -I gave the dogs off Challenger Point, and the rest of -their feeds having been from the Columbia musk-ox. -When we turned out at Cape Alexandra we had rabbit -stew for breakfast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Cape Alexandra we went on in eight and one-quarter -hours, to McClintock Bay, the going heavy -through the recently fallen snow, and everyone wearing -snowshoes as usual. We attempted to cut across -over the foreshore from Cape Alexandra to Cape Discovery, -but found the grade too heavy, and the snow -still deeper; and as I did not feel like breaking the -trail ahead on snowshoes, we descended again, and -went round it. We camped about in the middle of -McClintock Bay, which looked very little as it appears -on the chart. The eastern arm is a large deep inlet, -running in about west to south (magnetic), and the -middle western arm bends more to the west than shown.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cape Discovery is a bold mass, with a small glacier -between the two arms of the bay, and there is apparently -a large glacier ahead, for the point of which we -are travelling. This entire bay with its ramifications -is a black-walled indentation, its shores nearly -continuous cliffs, except at the head of the middle arm, -and apparently at the head of the eastern arm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Any party traversing this coast and having the time, -would do well to examine these two places, and if in -need of meat should certainly do so as they will be -likely to find musk-ox there. The night while we -marched was raw, a fresh easterly wind blowing, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>everything obscured by fog and clouds until about -4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> when it cleared and gave us brilliant sunlight. -It looked now as if the last of the recent storm had -disappeared, but one can never tell up here. Our -camp here was nearer to the sea ice (the edge of -which was distinctly visible) than any since leaving -Cape Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I was still inclined to think that the peculiar ice and -snow formations along this coast owe their existence -to the wind.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the camp off McClintock Bay a clear brilliant day -with light easterly breeze, and late in the afternoon -strata of fog forming and hiding the tops of the land, -was followed by a foggy night for travelling, but better -so than bright sun.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We marched in deep snow until the increased density -of the fog made it impossible to see where we were -going, then camped off the Glacier at Cape Fanshawe -Martin.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our short marches, abundant food, and my special -care of myself have put me in better condition than -when I left the ship; the swelling of my feet and legs -has apparently ceased, and in this march I took my -regular turn at breaking the trail ahead of the sledges -with snowshoes. An eight-hour march and four of us -gave each two hours, in one-hour spells.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A sandpiper flew over our camp, and during the -march a skua gull and six brant flew over us. Just -before reaching this camp, we saw a hare on the bluff, -and Koolootingwah went in and got two. He reports -last summer’s musk-ox tracks.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The middle point in McClintock Bay is apparently -<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>an island, and the so-called “spits” from McClintock -Bay on, are true glaciers.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The formation this side of Cape Alexandra is probably -the same.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In this camp we were at the west coast “corner” as -it were, this Cape Fanshawe Martin being in the same -latitude as Hecla, and the cape next ahead of us the -same latitude as Joseph Henry, then the coast trends -more rapidly to the south.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I felt that from here I ought to make Aldrich’s -“Farthest” in four more marches, possibly in three.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Cape Fanshawe Martin the snow was deeper -than ever, and this combined with fog and snow -squalls, made the march not particularly pleasant. -We came along fairly well, however, and with any luck -at all, I felt that we should make Aldrich’s “Farthest” -in two more comfortable marches. I did much -more than my share of breaking a trail on this march, -owing to the fact that my Eskimos could not keep a -straight course in the fog. The glacier which we followed -along, had a pronounced tidal crack delimiting -its front, and outside of this the ice was pushed up in -a great rounded ridge, a terminal moraine of ice in fact. -It looked very much as if getting on to a coast with a -different exposure (west instead of north) was going -to result in quite different general characteristics.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We were now in Yelverton Bay, the last great indentation -crossed by Aldrich, and the snow about our -camp was so deep and heavy, that I decided to go -straight out to the edge of the ice-foot, and follow it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This promised several advantages—first, better going -as the snow is almost always deeper in the bays than -<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>outside, and the tidal overflow at the edge gives patches -of good going. Second, we would have something to -follow in dense fog. Third, there was the chance of -coming upon a bear, and fourth, the certainty of -finding water, which would economise our fuel.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After travelling some four hours about due west, and -not reaching the ice-foot, I got a little irritated and -made up my mind to go to it no matter how far out it -was.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We were all night (8½ hours) reaching it, and then -found it no true ice-foot, only an irregular line between -the ice of the bay and the broken ice outside, with -no tidal joint whatever. A few hundred yards out -was a lead of open water, and a sounding in this gave -no bottom at 155 fathoms. Two hours from camp -we opened up past Cape Albert Edward, what at first -appeared to be an island, but later showed as distant -connected land, and, might, I thought, be the northern -part of Jesup Land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In any event whether that or a continuation of the -Grant Land coast, I was now looking into the unknown.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This Yelverton Bay is full of glaciers, and one presents -the usual characteristics of the Whale Sound -glaciers (vertical face and crevasses).</p> - -<p class='c009'>The glacial fringe here has a distinct glacier characteristic -in that its surface is undulating, and there -is a gradual descent in going away from the land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A sandpiper flew over in this march and a seal was -seen while we were making the sounding.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The night, while we marched, was clear, calm and -warm, a striking contrast to previous ones.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I broke the trail for five and one-half hours, and on -<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>arriving at camp felt the effects of it. I was still -decidedly below par.</p> - -<p class='c009'>June 16th we were off Aldrich’s “Farthest.” It -had been alternately sunny and foggy while we slept, -and at the ice-foot settling down to cloudy with frequent -fog banks during our march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From our camp at the ice-foot I set a course direct -for the point beyond Cape Alfred Ernest, and marched -for eight and one-quarter hours. The edge of the ice -was still visible, but it was because we were up above -sea-level on the undulating surface of the glacial fringe.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There was water all along the edge of the ice-foot -and out to the westward apparently a large area of it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A sandpiper flew over as we were breaking camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A day’s march beyond Aldrich’s “Farthest,” and -what I saw before me in all its splendid, sunlit savageness -was <i>mine</i>, mine by the right of discovery, to be -credited to me, and associated with my name, generations -after I have ceased to be.</p> - -<p class='c009'>While we were in camp at the “Farthest,” it cleared -completely, and when we turned out, there was not a -cloud nor bit of fog visible anywhere.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The distant land which I had thought to be the north -point of Jesup Land, showed now in the clear atmosphere -to be an extension of the Grant Land coast -appearing over a long glacier.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I changed our course for this most distant point and -kept this course all day.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After marching four hours I made out from one of -the ice swells, land still farther to the right (west). -This land I saw during the march the night before, -when coming out to the edge of the ice, but my Eskimos -<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>thought it was only the sun shining on large pieces of -ice and as it seemed to change its shape, I was inclined -after a time to agree with them. There was no -question now as to its being land, and I thought it must -surely be Jesup Land this time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going was very heavy throughout the march, and -getting worse, the snow deeper than ever.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There had been no strong wind in this region since -we left the ship at least, for the recent falls of snow lay -just as they fell.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The surface of the glacial fringe during this march -was intersected with narrow water cracks which -seemed to delimit the larger swells, and I observed some -hummocks and true crevasses.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Between us and the distant cape which was our -objective point another long flat glacier snout could -be seen pushing far out.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two smaller glaciers abreast of our camp showed all -the true glacier characteristics of seracs, crevasses, and -vertical faces.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>June 18th.</i>—Fifteen <i>paced</i> miles in eight hours and -forty-five minutes, including fifty minutes stops for -angles. My own speed of three miles per hour (one-half -mile in ten minutes), then a five minute wait for -the dogs, just made things even.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My brain is numb with the incessant ‘one, two, -three’ of counting my paces all day long.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The travelling continuously very heavy. I have -paced the entire fifteen miles, and the men (on snowshoes -as usual) have walked beside their sledges.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>Without snowshoes we should not have made over -half the distance, perhaps not more than five miles.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One dog played out and dragged into camp behind -the sledge, three others next door to it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We are now abreast of what looks as if it might be -a musk-ox country and I must go in and reconnoitre -it as soon as we have had some sleep and the weather -permits. I cannot give the dogs more than the -allowance of pemmican, and that is not enough for -them in this heavy going.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first half of the march was clear, following a -brilliant day in camp, then clouds and fog gathered -with a wind directly in our faces, and the latter part -of the march was decidedly bleak and cold, in striking -contrast to the previous one, when I travelled comfortably -in my blanket shirt.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Almost by the time the tent was pitched, it was -snowing, and is now snowing and blowing heavily -from the southwest (true).</p> - -<p class='c009'>The course to-day has been for the most distant -cape, and using this line as a long base, I have fixed -points of the coast by intersections.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is rather aggravating that the day on which I -begin my running survey, should be worse than previous -ones, but that is the Arctic way.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In to-day’s march we passed the mouth of a black -precipitous-walled bay, some eight to ten miles wide -at its mouth, with apparently several interior ramifications. -<i>Mine!</i></p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER X<br /> <span class='large'>WESTWARD OVER THE GLACIAL FRINGE OF GRANT LAND (CONTINUED)</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>It blew and snowed all day of the 18th, and -for several hours of the 19th. Then the snow -ceased, but the wind continued with increased force, -keeping up a blinding cloud of drift.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We broke camp, leaving all but two days’ rations, -and our tent and gear, and went in to the land about -six miles distant. The march, short as it was, was as -disagreeable as I had experienced for a long time, the -bitter wind finding every opening in our clothing and -filling it with snow, which then melted, so that when -we reached the land, we were all thoroughly wet. -Close to the land we got out of the drift, but did not -escape the wind.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I was the first to set foot on the “new land,” a level -patch of fine dark earth and gravel, and was greeted -by numbers of purple Arctic flowers, and a few steps -showed patches of grass, and moss, and old tracks and -droppings of reindeer and hare. A few minutes later -a skua gull flew over, and while the tent was being set -up, a brant.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The tent completed, I filled Egingwah and Ooblooyah -with coffee, and started them to reconnoitre the adjacent -country thoroughly. They were gone about five -hours, one going southeast, and the other southwest.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>Ooblooyah returned with two hare and reported -seeing two others, also old musk-ox tracks. Egingwah -saw one hare.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One of the hare went into the pot immediately, -then we turned in, to turn out again at midnight and -finish the other.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Koolootingwah and Ooblooyah were then sent with -two sledges and all the dogs except three played-out -ones, to reconnoitre a valley up the bay, for the musk-oxen -which were our crying need now. Egingwah at -the same time started out for hare again. All this -time it was thick and blowing with frequent snow -squalls, keeping everything wet.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Egingwah returned after several hours with two -hare, all that he had seen. While he was skinning -these, a flock of eleven brant flew over and settled -in a bit of water not far away, where he secured one -of them. A little later a burgomaster gull was seen. -The “O-o-o-he, O-o-o-he” of the purple sandpiper -was constantly in our ears. The blue flies so abundant -at Columbia seemed to be entirely absent here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 10 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> my other two men returned unsuccessful.</p> - -<p class='c009'>They reported the valley an attractive one, with a -lake which they thought contained salmon, and showing -plenty of grass, moss, and willow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>They found old tracks, droppings and antlers of -deer, but nothing recent, and no traces of musk-oxen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Numbers of hare and ptarmigan were seen, and six -of the former and one of the latter secured. Also a -number of brant.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span> -<img src='images/i_197.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE ALPINE SUMMIT OF CAPE COLGATE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span> -<img src='images/i_198.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE THOMAS HUBBARD<br /><br />Northern extremity of Jesup Land (Heiberger Land of Sverdrup)</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_198b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE COLGATE<br /><br />Northwestern angle of Grant Land</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>The wind had ceased now, and the sun was trying -to shine, but it remained very thick with a constant -drizzle of wet snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I was much disappointed at the failure to secure -game here, particularly when combined with the -enforced delay by stormy weather.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I could to a certain extent counteract this, and increase -my radius of action with the limited dog-food -I had, by sending a man and team back from here, -and this I decided I must do.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Numbers of lemming burrows were observed here, -also snowy owl exuviæ containing their skeletons and -hair.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sun shone occasionally during the 21st but the -land remained hidden continuously by dense fog.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With much trouble we succeeded in drying out most -of our clothing, and then broke camp and got out to -the cache, and proceeded on our way.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A snow-bunting was seen and an additional number -of brant. The flock which seemed to be hanging around -here numbered about eighteen. The one shot was a -female and the eggs in the ovaries were small.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The hare killed here (ten in all) were small, very -thin, and the meat tough.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In getting away from the shore camp we marched -through about a mile of knee-deep slush and water, -thoroughly wetting our feet of course, and came out to -the cache; fitted Koolootingwah out and started him -for the <i>Roosevelt</i>; left a small cache of provisions, -and the various specimens; loaded the two sledges -with the remaining stuff (about nine days’ rations of -pemmican) and went on ten paced miles.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This was a disagreeable march; no sun, only fog -<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>and clouds and snow squalls, straining the eyes and -rendering it very difficult to keep a course; strong -head wind and deep soft snow, but it was good to be -moving again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was thick all day while we slept, and continued -so, with the land invisible. Just after we pitched the -tent, there was a brief, sharp flurry of hail, which rattled -on the tent in great shape, and startled the dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Another wearing march, though an improvement on -the previous one; and I had no reason to complain as -we covered sixteen paced miles in seven hours fifty -minutes, including ten minutes for lunch, and fifteen -for examining some moraine tumuli. Though the sun -did not shine through the clouds, it was warm enough -to thaw the surface of the snow, and this layer of -wet snow made very heavy snowshoeing. As a compensation -the sledges ran measurably easier.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I kept the same pace as on previous marches, one-half -mile in ten minutes, then waited for the dogs to -come up. In this march the dogs made each half -mile in twelve and one-half minutes, as against full -fifteen minutes in the two previous marches.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The densest of fog shrouded us for the first five -hours, and I kept my course by the wind-marks in -the snow; then it cleared overhead, and the sun shone -brilliantly, but the land remained shrouded.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There was a persistent “fog eater” (fog bow) ahead -of us during this time. From 3:30 till 7, we could just -make out the low shores on our left. We pitched our -tent on a little patch of just-dried glacial clay in what -seemed to be a small bight of the shore, and having -plenty of water about us the supper was quickly cooked.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>Then the fog shut in again completely, and nothing -could be seen but a bit of the shore nearest us, and this -very dimly.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice traversed in this march was a succession of -swells of moderate height. The light and shade after -the sun came out, allowed the undulations of this -remarkable ice-foot to be very clearly seen, and I was -more and more reminded of the ice-cap.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>June 24th.</i>—Occasionally (though rarely) this country -affords complete and surprising changes for the -better. The last twenty-four hours have been a case -in point. A day of comfort, of interest, of accomplishment -after the five days of storm, delay and -disappointment.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It continued foggy all day at the last camp, but -began to clear when I started breakfast, and at 11 -<span class='fss'>P. M.</span> when we got under way, it was as fine and clear -as could be desired.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I went on ahead of the sledges. Two miles from -camp brought me to a low point, then a walk of some -two miles or more over bare, dry gravel, where I saw -a sandpiper, two brant, the recent tracks of four deer -in the snow, the place where they had slept, and picked -up a perfectly bleached buck antler.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then joining the sledges we came to a low point -six miles from camp. Two hours from this with good -going, at a three-mile-an-hour pace, brought us to -another low point under the mountain for which I have -been setting my course during the last fifty-three miles.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Though this striking peak looked very steep from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>the east, I was satisfied as we came along that it was -practicable and after a brief reconnoissance, I gave -the word to pitch the tent, that we would devote the -rest of the day to the ascent.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I felt this was an opportunity not to be lost; the -brilliant weather, the chance to perfect my principal -angles, and the practical certainty that the elevation -would enable me to see what there was beyond, and, -I hoped, show me the desired north end of Jesup Land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After preparing lunch of corn-meal mush and tea, -we started for the ascent.</p> - -<p class='c008'>From the summit 2,000 feet above the sea-level and -of a more truly Alpine character than any that I have -seen in northern Greenland, or Grant Land, the view -was more than interesting. East lay the wide white -zone of the ice-foot; west the unbroken surface of -Nansen’s Strait, and beyond it the northern part of -that western land which I saw from the heights of the -Ellesmere Land ice-cap in July, 1898, and named Jesup -Land, though Sverdrup has later given it the name of -Heiberger Land. South, over and beyond some intervening -mountains and valleys, lay the southern reaches -of Nansen’s Strait. North stretched the well-known -ragged surface of the polar pack, and northwest it was -with a thrill that my glasses revealed the faint white -summits of a distant land which my Eskimos claimed -to have seen as we came along from the last camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From this point I followed the western shore of -Grant Land south until it began to trend eastward, -hoping to find Sverdrup’s cairn and record, but without -success, though we all searched the shore carefully.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>I then headed directly across the strait to the northern -extremity of the western land. The ice in the -Strait was to all appearance a continuation of that -forming the glacial fringe of the Grant Land coast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>June 28th.</i>—Two red-letter days which have seen -the realisation of another of the objects of this present -trip, <i>i. e.</i>, the attainment of the northern point of -Jesup Land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With my feeling of satisfaction is a feeling of sadness -and regret that this may be the end of my Arctic work. -From now on may simply be putting in shape what -I have already done. Twenty years last month since -I began, and yet I have missed the prize.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Oh, for the untiring energy and elasticity of twenty -years ago with the experience of to-day.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It seems as if I deserved to win this time.</p> - -<p class='c008'>The fog which all day of the 26th hid Jesup Land, -dissipated before we got under way and showed the -entire coast clearly.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Still keeping on a direct line for the foot of the -bluffs of the northern point, one and one-half miles -from camp brought us on to sea ice, and as the snow -was soft and deeper on this, and there was more water -on it, I gave up my “bee-line” course and kept off to -the left on the ice of the Strait.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At twenty miles we touched the ice-foot at a low -bluff point, and found quite a deep bay (five miles -at least) separating this from the northern point.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The snowshoeing had been very heavy thus far, our -<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>shoes sinking deeply into the saturated snow, and coming -up at each step loaded with several pounds of it; -but from here it was worse, the snow still softer and -underlaid with water, and the last two miles of the -five to the cape, over hummocky ice was almost -continuous wading through one pool after another.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This bay makes up into a wide low valley between -the mountains on the east coast, and the mountains -extending back from the north point.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As the region seemed rather inviting, it was carefully -examined with the glasses, and tracks of musk-oxen -or deer made out in the snow. This was very -pleasing to me as my dogs are sadly in need of an -addition to their pemmican ration.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Just before stepping on the gravel of the foreshore -which makes out from the bluffs of the north point, -I saw two hare, a step or two farther three more, then -another. At 3.50 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> I stepped ashore, followed -a few minutes later by my men. A little before this, -a flock of nineteen brant flew over us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I sent Egingwah away at once after the hare, told -Ooblooyah to look after the dogs, and slinging the -binoculars over my shoulders, started west for the -crest of the foreshore to see what was beyond.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There was more moss on the gravel here than -at any place we touched on the Grant Land coast, -also an occasional tuft of grass and frequent purple -flowers. In the calm air, and brilliant sunshine, -the place had a very warm and inviting look (heightened -by the sound of running water) which even my -aching legs and ankles, and icewater-saturated feet -could not lessen. Only a few steps and I came -<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>on the recent tracks of six deer in a patch of -snow, and this put me on the alert and made me go -cautiously.</p> - -<p class='c009'>About a mile from the sledges as I rose over a -gravel ridge, there were four deer, two close by, a doe -and fawn farther on.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I dropped down at once, watched them a moment -or two, then turned to signal to Egingwah.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He had secured one hare, and fired at another, -then I saw him start towards me on the run. He had -seen the deer almost as soon as I. When he came -up, I sent him on, and in a short time he had two of -them down, the doe and fawn making off up the foreshore -to the west.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was now just thirty-five minutes since I had -landed, and we had two deer and a hare. I sent -Egingwah back to Ooblooyah to bring up the dogs and -sledges and while he was gone the cry of the purple -sandpipers was continuous about me and I saw a -white fox skulking along the rocks.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the boys came up, the tent was pitched near -the deer, and convenient to water, and I made coffee.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then Ooblooyah was sent after the doe and fawn -and after photographing the deer, Egingwah and I -skinned and cut them up, and fed the dogs generously.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Both were does, neither pregnant, nor very large, -and very thin though evidently putting on flesh, the skin -of course in bad condition and antlers in the velvet. -A very noticeable feature was the length of the hoofs, -and the development of the dew claws into regular -spoons as large as a hare’s ears, thus giving the deer -natural snowshoes, which they need in this country -<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>not only for the snow, but for the boggy saturated -ground as well, at this time of year.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Some time after the work was completed and I -was sitting in the tent reloading my camera, when -Egingwah came running to say the doe and fawn were -coming back, and regretting that he had no gun. I -gave him my revolver which carried the same cartridge -as the carbine and told him to try that. Before -the deer got in range however, they smelled or -heard the dogs, and started off for the little valley -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then we saw Ooblooyah returning, and he seeing -the deer, ran back and ambushed the doe as she -entered the ravine. Hearing his shot, Egingwah went -off to him, and at 11 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> they were back in camp -with the meat of the doe. I had told Ooblooyah to -bring the fawn in alive if possible, and being unable -to catch it, the boys had left it and the skin of the doe, -until they had further instructions.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had a pot of tea, and another of cooked meat -ready, as we had had only our coffee and biscuit since -our breakfast thirteen hours before (not that this was -a great hardship, but it was enough to give us robust -appetites).</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our zest was increased by the fact that for the -last five days, we had been living on preserved eggs -and mush in order to save the pemmican for the dogs. -This is a very good diet in ordinary climates, but by -no means takes the place of meat for work under these -conditions.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After eating, the two men turned in, but I remained -up till 3 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> to get a latitude observation. All -<span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>this time it was calm and brilliantly sunny and -warm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 9 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> I turned out after practically fruitless -attempts to sleep, owing to the heat in the tent, and -the swarms of big blue flies which, attracted by the -meat, swarmed round and into the tent and over us. -During an hour or two of this time, there were some -heavy squalls which shook the tent viciously, and -overturned my transit but without injuring it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Coffee finished, and the dogs fed again, they were -all hitched to the one sledge, and we started at 11 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> -for the summit of the cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A big snow drift on the east side enabled us to -take the sledge to an elevation of about 600 feet.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here it was left, and the dogs fastened, and we -went on up an easy ascent of loose rocks alternating -with banks of snow, reaching the summit (about 1,600 -feet) comfortably in an hour and a half from camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the summit we built a cairn similar to that on -the summit of Cape Columbia, in which I deposited a -brief record and a piece of my silk flag as usual.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The clear day greatly favoured my work in taking a -round of angles, and with the glasses I could make -out apparently a little more distinctly, the snow-clad -summits of the distant land in the northwest, above -the ice horizon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My heart leaped the intervening miles of ice as I -looked longingly at this land, and in fancy I trod its -shores and climbed its summits, even though I knew -that that pleasure could be only for another in another -season. While I was thus engaged my men made out -three deer in a valley south of us.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>With the completion of my work on the summit, and -the building of the cairn, we came down to the sledge -and dogs, from whence I returned to camp, while the -two men went after the deer we had seen. I started -to return without snowshoes, so the men might take -them along, but as I went into the wet snow to my -hips at every step, I changed my mind and retained -them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Just below the lower edge of the snow as I came -down, a flock of not less than one hundred brant -were feeding and sunning themselves. When I came -within fifty yards they rose.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Back to camp at 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> for my breakfast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then I started with my transit for the end of the -low point (extremity of the foreshore) to select a place -for a cairn, and take a few angles. After going less -than a mile, I was obliged to give it up and return -to camp, the saturated clayey earth letting my feet -sink in nearly to the top of my boots at every step, -and taking all my strength to pull out. With snowshoes -I could have got along, but I had left those at -the snow-bank a mile or more on the other side of the -camp, and was too lazy to go after them. I was -forcibly reminded of the travelling Trevor-Battye -found in Kolguev.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After this I brought more rocks for the tent guys, -then took a nap to make up for the previous night.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> the men returned. They found at close -quarters that the three deer seen from the summit of -the cape had increased to six and a fawn, all of which -were secured (three bucks and three does). They -scarcely had the dogs fastened when yesterday’s fawn -<span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>came trotting up to within fifty yards of the tent, -then started off again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Egingwah went after him, followed him up to the -mother’s skin, and brought both in.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We all had another square feed, the dogs as well, -more stones were added to the tent guys, and the men -were soon snoring.</p> - -<p class='c009'>By this time the wind was blowing very fresh, -clouds were gathering, and there was every indication -that this spell of fine weather was at an end.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had no reason to complain. It had lasted long -enough for me to get and see what I wanted.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we awoke about midnight, snow or, more -likely, rain was so evidently imminent, that I had the -men cover the deerskins with the floor cloths, feed the -dogs to repletion, and sew up some holes in the tent. -This was barely completed when the rain began, -driving furiously before a strong southwest gale.</p> - -<p class='c009'>But with a waterproof tent, gravel underneath, all -belongings that were not in the tent protected with -waterproof covers, the dogs and ourselves well fed, -and an ample supply of food at hand, we could take -this kind of weather with a good deal of equanimity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>July 1st.</i>—Am glad to be over this first stage of our -return journey short as it is.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The storm continued throughout the 29th and 30th, -rain falling during the middle of the day, and snow -the rest of the time, with continuous strong southwesterly -wind.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This morning it moderated, and I got out at once -<span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>and moved everything down to the ice-foot where we -had left one sledge. A small cairn with a piece of box -embedded in the top of it was built not far from the -ice-foot upon the low foreshore. While this was being -done a lemming was caught, thus adding this animal -to the fauna of Jesup Land. No previous cairn exists -on or near this cape nor does it appear from Sverdrup’s -narrative or his map that he reached this point. The -two sledges were then loaded and we started on our -return, but not by the way we had come.</p> - -<p class='c009'>While not exactly an open polar sea, our outward -track was now impracticable to anything unable to -swim.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The four days since we came over it had worked -surprising changes and what with the direct melting, -and the water poured on to it from the land, the ice -was completely flooded.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We made a long detour into the bay lying between -our camp and the next point to the east, picking up -the rest of the meat the boys got on the 28th, and -landed on the point after four hours of wading.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I reached the land a little farther up the bay than -the sledges, and saw a deer grazing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After the sledges came ashore, the tent was set up, -I made tea, all our gear and clothing, saturated by the -trip, was spread out on the gravel to dry, as the sun -gave symptoms of appearing; then I sent the boys -to bring in the deer which they did in about an hour, -(a buck with small horns in the velvet).</p> - -<p class='c008'>This made twelve obtained thus far. A fresh track -was seen between the tent and the sledge which we -<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>left; and another deer was seen on the opposite side -of the bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our camp here was well located, the tent pitched -on a mound of fine, dry gravel close to a small brook by -which the dogs were fastened, and which at a pool a -little farther up furnished us with clear cold water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I found two poppies and a bit of sorrel in bloom -here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the top of the bluffs back of the tent, where -I could look across the Strait, I made out a good deal -of water on the ice, but I hoped we should not find it -as bad as during the last march. It was evident, -however, we were going to have lots of trouble going -back and were going to be wet all the time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Camping in this region in June, July, and August, -if on land, and it is clear and calm, and one is not -under the necessity of travelling every day, can be -very pleasant.</p> - -<p class='c009'>But if it blows or snows, or both, or if one is on the -sea or bay ice and obliged to get somewhere at a certain -time, it is sure to be very unpleasant.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sun shone enough to quite perceptibly dry our -things, but as it got lower, the fog and clouds gathered -again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The dogs were fed nearly all they would eat, as -meat carries very much lighter inside them than on -the sledge, and I hoped that with the rest and good -feeding here, they would do better work going back.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The two boys skinned out the deer heads and tried -to dry the skins.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I must confess to a feeling of sadness and regret at -leaving this last camp. It was a striking picture, the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>deer and hare, feeding in the brilliant sunshine under -the high bluffs, the call of the birds, and the sound -of running water. And the picture will be repeated -again and again, summer after summer, but I, to -whom it belongs, should never see it again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Southwest Camp, Grant Land. 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> July 3d.</i>—Back -here again, across the channel, with less -discomfort and hard work than I had reason, in the -light of past experience, to expect.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It rained continuously during the 2d, with fresh -southwesterly breeze, making it not exactly impossible, -but disagreeable for us to travel, and preventing the -drying of the deerskins. As before, however, with a -waterproof tent over us, and plenty of food for our -dogs and ourselves, we were physically very comfortable, -and slept much of the time, my two men -almost literally all the time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I knew, however, that every hour of the rain was -making our return road more difficult, and as soon as -the rain ceased (about midnight), we broke camp and -started, getting away from the extremity of Twenty-mile -Cape at 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> this morning. The entire bay -which we crossed on the 1st, was now a continuous -sheet of water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first two or three miles of the channel were -very decent. After that, it was only by following -the deep snow along the pressure ridge (a road impracticable -without our snowshoes and broad-runner -sledge) that we were able to advance. On each side -were lakes of water, and deep morasses of slush.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>When we took a step without snowshoes we would -go in to mid-thigh or even hip.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Fortunately the dogs feel the effects of the rest -and generous fare on Jesup Land, and we made practically -the same time as in going over.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of course our feet and legs were soaked in the ice-water -from the very start, crossing the morasses from -one piece of decent going to another.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At noon we reached the edge of the ice-foot on this -side, and found it a broad river, which we had to ford -to get to the site of our camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We have crossed without any time to spare. In one -or two days at most, the channel will be impassable -for two or three weeks (depending upon local conditions) -until the snow has all melted and the water -drained off.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On this side the change has been very pronounced -since we left.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Where there was just enough bare gravel for us -to set the tent a few days ago, are now acres of snow-free -ground.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Looking over this region I am struck with the -pronounced igneous or even volcanic character of -the rock specimens, something very much like -pumice and slag being abundant. Is it possible -that the twin snow-mountains back of us are extinct -volcanoes?</p> - -<p class='c008'>The march from Southwest camp to Observation -Camp was the hardest and most disagreeable of all, -and the thirty-six hours the most uncomfortable of -the entire trip.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>We got away from Southwest Camp at 2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of -the 4th. The promise of the previous afternoon of -good weather, had not been kept, and all but the base -of the land was buried in cloud (Jesup Land of course -invisible). For an hour we got along fairly well following -the raised edges of a tidal crack, then fog -descended upon us and we waded and floundered -through pools of water to the land at West Point -(which is really one of three islands). Along the -shore of this, and the next island, was decent going -on deep snow, and so across the ice-foot to the edge -of the tidal crack west of Northwesterly Point and -along this to the point itself.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From here to off Intermediate Point we had more -trouble as the tidal crack was not so well marked.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It had commenced to snow at Northwesterly Point -and from Intermediate Point we had it very uncomfortable. -The snowfall steadily increasing blotted -out every thing over a hundred feet distant, and was -accompanied by a penetrating wind from the northeast -and yet was damp enough to melt on our clothing, -and saturate us wherever we had escaped wetting in -our constant wading.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Impossible to pick a route, we could only work -along in a general direction, guided by the wind.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For several hours it looked as if we would have to -camp in the slush on the ice; then it lightened enough -to let us pick a way, and at last after wading the broad -ice-foot river, I stepped on the point at Observation -Camp. Every thread on me was soaked with snow-water, -and every joint and muscle ached with the -exertion of pulling out the slush-laden snowshoes at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>every step. I was not inclined to complain however, -for the gravel here, wet as it was, was much preferable -to a foot of icy slush as a bed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I still had a dry coat and dry stockings to sleep in, -though my trousers and underwear were all I had, and -should have slept fairly comfortably, but for a blinding -headache from the fumes of the Primus stoves, which -of course went particularly wrong now. This headache -lasted me until I got out for a tramp after Ooblooyah -had laboured five hours sewing my trousers, which -the heavy snowshoeing and lifting on the sledges had -completely wrecked.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It snowed incessantly after we arrived, making it -impossible to pick a road through the icy swamps -east of us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A seal was seen near the ice-foot just before we got -ashore here, and ten brant flew about our camp at -Southwest Camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When I turned out, I was old and stiff in every -joint, my feet and ankles swollen and my left foot -almost out of commission from some wrench. The -doctor’s salve brought it round a good deal, and -I hoped to be able to use it when the weather -cleared.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One thing was sure, I simply could not have done -the work I was doing now, when I left the <i>Roosevelt</i> -or for a good many days after.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was rather a disagreeable 4th of July celebration -for us, wading through ice-water, and the weather such -that I could not even fly the flag.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I hoped this constant snowfall would squeeze all -the moisture out of the air, so that we might have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>some more fine weather, though I feared that we -were going to have the same weather for our -return that I had in July, 1899, in Princess -Marie Bay.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XI<br /> <span class='large'>THE RETURN FROM “FARTHEST WEST”</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>July 6th.</i>—Another day of hell, except that there has -been too much water to comport with the orthodox -understanding of the place.</p> - -<p class='c009'>About 5 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> yesterday, the fog and snow lightened -sufficiently for a short time, to permit studying out a -route to the next point to the east, among the -lakes.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We then turned in for some sleep before starting, as -we had already been up and awake over twelve hours. -Waking at midnight, I found the fog had settled down -densely but it was no longer snowing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We ate our breakfast, then I had the men build a -cairn in which was put a brief record in a bottle, and -we started.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going was fairly good, and, after wading a wide -ice-foot river, we reached as we supposed the point -and followed the shore of this for some time, then got -mixed up among some of the glacial deposits (all the -time floundering through deep slush and icy lakes), and -finally made camp on a pile of moraine material abreast -of our camp of the 23d.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The land we followed is a low island, snow-covered -when we went out and not noticed. The real land -<span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>which we can just see dimly, is unattainable, by reason -of a wide, unfordable lake.</p> - -<p class='c008'>The sun shone enough at intervals at this camp -to nearly complete drying the six deerskins begun at -Twenty-mile Cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Leaving this camp in overcast weather, we reached -the twelve mile tumulus, after wading stream after -stream all running to the land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the summit of the tumulus I saw the ice ahead -of us in the same condition; a gigantic potato field -with a long blue lake or a rushing stream in every -furrow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Wading these constantly, we at last reached the tidal -joint and followed this in comfort to a position almost -abreast of our camp of the 21st. Only the base of the -land was visible at any time. Everything covered with -a pall of inky clouds.</p> - -<p class='c009'>While we slept at the last camp, the temperature fell -below the freezing point, crusting the snow, and freezing -the smaller pools of water, and the northeast wind -which had been blowing ever since we left Southwest -Camp, increased to a half gale, shaking our tent -violently. The low canopy of inky clouds remained -the same.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With all our clothing wet, and our foot-gear saturated, -this was almost serious for us, and made the -first half of this march extremely uncomfortable. -Added to this, I felt pronouncedly off-colour on waking. -The last two days of constant wading and the heaviest -of snowshoeing had taken it out of me quite a bit.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span> -<img src='images/i_221.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>EGINGWAH AND REINDEER AT CAPE HUBBARD</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span> -<img src='images/i_222.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CROSSING A STREAM ON THE GLACIAL FRINGE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_222b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>OUR CAMP ON LAND WEST OF ALDRICH’S FARTHEST</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>Four hours after leaving camp, we were abreast of -my cache, made where Koolootingwah turned back -and I sent the two men with one empty sledge and all -the dogs to get it. They were bothered a good deal in -reaching it by the lakes and streams. We were following -the only practicable road. Without it, we -would not make more than half our progress. On each -side of our trail was a nearly continuous deep blue lake, -into the outer side of which flowed at short intervals, -streams and from the inner edge of which at every -available spot streams had bored a way through to -the tide crack into which they poured with a rush.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After leaving the cache we travelled for four hours -more. The snow was nearly all gone from the ice here -now, and two or three days more of warm weather -would remove it entirely. The effect of the fall in -temperature was very perceptible in the lowering of -the water level in all the smaller pools.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sun shone at intervals during the march but -could not make up its mind to clear, and wind, directly -in our faces, continued.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was a great comfort to start the next morning -with dry foot-gear, even though it did not stay dry -long.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Quite decent travelling most of the day though we -had a few hours of heavy work. There were plenty -of lakes and streams all about us, but keeping along -the crack saved us. Anywhere else was nearly if -not quite impracticable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The bulk of the snow had already melted, and the -streams were falling, but of course many of the lakes -would remain till they froze the next fall.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sun shone at intervals alternating with dense -<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>fog and snow squalls. The wind was fresh while we -slept, and through the greater part of the march, but -died away, about as we camped, and it became dead -calm and foggy.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We camped on the outer swell of the great glacier -forming Aldrich’s last “low-sloping spit.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>The more level ice-foot extending from the base of -this swell to the ragged sea ice, ten to twelve miles -distant, was covered with lakes and rivers.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For a half hour or so, I had some striking views of -the magnificent peaks from Cape Alfred Ernest westward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Again I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Yelverton Bay, July 10th.</i>—Out of my new domain, -and back into the known world again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was calm while we slept at the last camp, and the -sun was warm enough through the fog and clouds, to -still further dry our clothing and gear.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Got an earlier start than usual and had good going, -and decent weather (calm and overcast) until 9 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> -when we struck the river from a glacier at the head -of the bay, and after deflecting for two miles along its -swampy banks, were obliged to ford it, one hundred -yards wide, knee deep, and running with a current -that threatened to sweep us and the dogs and sledges -away. Then the thick fog making it impossible to -pick a course through the lakes and rivers, I camped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Our tent here, as at the last camp was in a slushy -swamp, a small spot being made a little firmer by -tamping the snow first with the snowshoes, and then -with our feet.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>Two fine snow-capped mountains back of Alert Point -are deserving of a name.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Off Milne Bay, July 11th.</i>—Another day of watery -hell, beating out in fog and driving snow, through the -devil-inspired labyrinth of lakes and rivers set in a -morass of knee-deep slush which fills this bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Nine and one-half hours of uninterrupted travel -brought us out to the series of “rafters” which form -the line of demarcation between the edge of the bay-ice -and the pack. Here the roar of some river or lake -which was pouring through a crack to the sea, filled -our ears.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Whatever obstacles may be in our way now along -this rafter (and God knows there will be enough of -them of one kind or another) there should be no rivers -to ford and such lakes as there are will in all probability -be parallel to our route.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This going is as yet not quite as bad as the return -from the July trip in Princess Marie Bay in 1899, but -there is plenty of room for it to become a good deal -worse in the miles between here and the <i>Roosevelt</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Fifteen years ago to-day, I broke my right leg in -Melville Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two played-out dogs killed and fed to the others.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Near Cape Richards, July 13th.</i>—At last we are -round the corner (Cape Fanshawe Martin) which we -have been struggling toward for four days (including -to-day) and which has seemed to recede as fast as we -advance.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going to-day much the same as yesterday, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>perhaps a little better at the end, but I got my worst -wetting, a slip of my feet while pushing the sledges -over a bad place, sending me into the water up to my -waist. This rendered the latter part of the march -somewhat uncomfortable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>But one gets used to this constant wetting (as they -say one gets used to anything) and I no longer mind -my saturated clothing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I wring it out when I turn in, and give it another -twist when I turn out. It has reminded me of my -Nicaraguan experiences, but the temperature of both -air and water is somewhat different here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sun shone a little at the last camp and during -perhaps half of this march, but we have faced throughout -the march, a strong and searching northeast wind -with the temperature below the freezing point.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The glacier west of Cape Fanshawe Martin is an -active one; its face ten feet to forty feet high. A -detached “floeberg” which I estimated to be one and -one-quarter miles long, and one-half mile wide, lies -frozen in a hundred yards or so off its face. The face -of this “floeberg” would average twenty feet to twenty-eight -feet above the water. Two Arctic terns flew -over us while we were coming round the Cape.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>McClintock Bay, July 14th.</i>—The wind blew continuously -and violently at the last camp, and the sun -shone occasionally and was shining when we started.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I thought I would try the inside route, <i>i. e.</i> along -the tidal crack well into the bay, but an hour’s travelling -along the glacier face, brought us to a position -where I could overlook the bay, and I saw at once -<span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>that it was entirely impracticable. The surface of the -bay was completely covered with large connecting -lakes and wide streams.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The route along the outer edge of the ice-foot was -the only way, and to reach this we were obliged to -retrace our steps to camp, and were then bothered -by two or three lakes, and one large river which forced -us well out among the floes with their waist-deep -drifts, before we could get around it. In this way -we lost three hours.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After this the going was better, and the course -fairly direct, the slush and water averaging only about -ankle deep. One other river some fifty yards wide, -with a pronounced cataract, forced us again out on -to the floes.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We have travelled very slowly, however, the dogs’ -feet being in terrible condition from the sharp ice and -constant wetting. Nearly all are fitted with boots, -but still they only limp along. The gray dog was -killed here, and fed to the others, together with five -of the Jesup Land deerskins which there has been no -chance to dry, and which are spoiling. If we don’t -reach Cape Alexandra it will mean another dog, as I -have no more pemmican. After the first hour to-day, -continuous fog.</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>Disraeli Bay, July 15th.</i>—Another hell-begotten day, -or rather night. Dense fog, with the sun shining -through it at times, but the land invisible, was the -programme at the last camp. While we were getting -ready to start, portions of the land showed up, and -remained visible for about one hour.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>Since then dense fog with the accompaniment during -the last four hours of wet snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going after the first two hours was fair over old -hummocky ice from which most of the snow has -melted, and on which what water there is, is in small -pools. In clear weather and able to see ahead, it -would be good going.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Under these circumstances, I gave up the idea of -sending the two men in for the Cape Alexandra cache.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We will stick to the outer edge of the foot-ice. If -we can make Columbia, and get the meat there, well -and good; if not, we will keep right on to Hecla and -eat dog till we get there.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two large streams negotiated to-day. One by fording, -sweeping sledges down and wetting almost everything -on them, the other by bridging a fortunate cañon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My clothes are now literally rotting from the constant -wet. I have got used to the disagreeableness -of the wet, but not yet to the stench of the last few -days, especially when in camp, and turned in.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A seal was seen out on the ice, but he went into the -water before Egingwah could get near him.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A nearly complete specimen of the same fish as I -found beyond Cape Alfred Ernest was also picked up -to-day, but the dogs got it all except the head.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The whole width of this big glacier from Cape Alexandra -west, is composed of heavy hummocky ice, -which, when broken off, will form “paleocrystic” floes.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“Nungwoodie,” the faithful gray dog, played out, and -was killed here. Very sorry to have him go.</p> - -<p class='c008'>Two more days, or rather a continuous performance -<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>of this infernal weather, then one decent night, and after -a long forced march which killed one dog, used up -another and left us practically played out, we reached -the low point of Columbia, which forms Cape Aldrich, -and set up the tent on dry gravel, the first time in -twelve days that it had been set up in anything except -slush and water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Looking out over the ice from the tent, I saw that -where we came in, unpleasant as was the going, was -the only practicable place. From where we came in, -clear round the point, was a wide, deep lake.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The march of the 16th was not only uncomfortable -but very disappointing. Near the close of it, the fog -rose a little, and showed that instead of being abreast -of Cape Albert Edward as I had expected, we were -barely abreast of the west end of Ward Hunt Island. -Our previous march had left us two or three hours short -of Cape Alexandra, and this march had been short as -to distance. Three large streams bothered us, and in -crossing one of them, both my men were taken off -their feet, one wet all over, the other partially, and the -sledge nearly swept away, all my strength just serving -to hold it till they could pull themselves out by it, -and then help haul it out. The white dog was fed to -the others here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this camp the temperature fell well below the -freezing point, making us distinctly uncomfortable. -When we began the next march, its effect was immediately -apparent. The snow and the smaller pools were -now frozen firm enough to support sledge and dogs -and myself, on snowshoes; the streams were less in -volume, and the fog, its supply of raw material cut off -<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>by the stoppage of evaporation, gave signs of relaxing -its grip. Added to this, a considerable number of the -lakes, having found an outlet, had drained off and -were now mere shadows of their former selves. Matters -were mending a little, though we again pitched our tent -in wet snow, somewhat west of Camp Nares. The -old black <i>Sipsu</i> dog was killed here.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two large streams were negotiated in this march, -one by a detour round where it poured into a crack, -the other over a snow arch.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When we began the next march, the sun was breaking -through the fog; when we were off the middle of -Markham Bay, he had gained full victory, and from -then on till afternoon, he beat down upon us in a -blinding glare which burned my face and scorched -my eyes in spite of my big-vizored cap.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It gave me the opportunity, however, to see the twin -peaks of Columbia from the west and north, and they -are a very striking sight.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After we had our tea, the men went over to the -musk-ox meat which we had left on the outward trip. -They were a little anxious as to whether the foxes -had eaten it all or not.</p> - -<p class='c009'>They returned a few hours later, gorged, and with -the information that the foxes had not disturbed the -meat, and that there was more than what we left, -Koolootingwah having killed two more musk-oxen -here on his return. They also brought back a hare -and one of Koolootingwah’s dogs, which had slipped -his harness and remained with the meat, and was now -in fine condition. All this was very gratifying. The -meat allowed me to remain here two sleeps, which -<span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>were absolutely necessary for my dogs; the fresh -dog was a very welcome recruit, and I appreciated the -hare as an agreeable change from the dog meat of the -previous two days.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After a few hours’ sleep, I went over with the men -and dogs and one sledge, to feed the dogs thoroughly, -bring over the remainder of the meat, and from the -top of the bluff examine the ice eastward, to see what -our route must be to Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Coming back over the bluffs, to our camp the orography -of the glacial fringe both east and west was very -strongly brought out by the streams and blue lakes -which filled every depression and furrow. I took some -photos, but was not sanguine as to their success. Was -afraid that the blue of the lakes would not show on -the photos.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There was a great deal of water between Columbia -and Hecla, and the only possible route for us was along -the outer rafter. Even there it did not look attractive.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After returning to the tent, I strolled over the low -gravel flat which forms Cape Aldrich, and gathered -a few flowers. The purple flowers were nearly over, but -the poppies were in full season; there were also the -potentilla, which with their bright yellow flowers rising -from the fine, deep-red runners or tentacles which -radiate in every direction, form an even more striking -bit of colour than the poppies. There was a great -granite erratic on this point which I photographed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After another sleep we resumed our march in a continuation -of fine weather, and with the dogs feeling -the effects of their rest and surfeit of meat. Following -the snow-bank on the west side of the point to its -<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>extremity, and then straight out to the edge of the ice, -we proceeded with considerable comfort, except for -one large stream, draining Parr Bay and vicinity, -which we had to ford.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The end of the march found us a little east of Gifford -Peak. Two large streams were negotiated, one by -fording, the other by a long detour round where it -poured into a crack in the ice. The streams and lakes -were much reduced in size to what they had been, and -were steadily draining off.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going was better than I anticipated. At this -camp our supper and breakfast from the musk-ox meat, -which had lain for some three weeks, was not over-attractive.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next march again was in fine weather but the fog -once more gained the ascendancy, and at the end of -some five hours obliterated everything.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Watching intently for it, I at last made out faint -traces of our trail of last spring from Pt. Moss northward, -and pitching the tent a little beyond it, sent the -two men in to the cache there with the sledge, to bring -off some pemmican and biscuits. They missed their -way in the fog, but eventually found the cache, and -returned with the desired articles which were very -acceptable. Three rivers were negotiated in this -march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next march began in fog but ended in brilliant -sunshine. In crossing Clements Markham inlet there -were few lakes, the water taking the shape of the narrow -but deep and widely ramifying pools of ordinary bay -ice. Two considerable rivers we had to ford. We -made the Cape Hecla land at the place where we left -<span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span>the ice-foot going out, but the ice-foot was a continuous -deep lake now, and we continued on the sea ice -to within about one-half mile of the Hecla camp, where -open water forced us on to the crest of the ice-foot -ridge, which was followed to the cache. The site of -our spring camp was submerged now under several feet -of water, the entire ice-foot here being a large lake. -Taking a few things from the cache we kept along the -crest until round into James Ross Bay, then camped on -the ice, being unable to get ashore though close by it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next evening when we started, dense fog again -covered everything, but as we had the rafter edge to -follow, this did not interfere very much with our progress. -At Crozier Island, I found some tins marking -the site of our igloo in April 1902. Beyond here the -fog lifted enough to show that the overland route -across Fielden Peninsula was entirely impracticable -owing to the absence of snow, and that we must go -round by Joseph Henry. I rather dreaded this, for -I knew what the conditions were on the east side of -that savage cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Up to within about five miles of the point of the -cape, the going was much the same as across Clements -Markham Inlet, with two rivers that compelled detours. -Then we had three or four miles of the heaviest -going on raftered sea ice, then perhaps a mile of ice-foot. -The apex of the cape was practically the same -as in 1902. It required the three of us and all the -dogs to each sledge to get along. As I looked back -toward Hecla from the narrow ice-foot shelf at this apex, -there came to me the time I first looked round it upon -Hecla in April 1902, and my feelings at that time. I -<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>had been a far cry beyond since then. A short -distance beyond the apex began an ice-foot lake. The -tent and camp gear we backed around this along the -steep slope of the talus, pitched the tent and made -supper, then the men went back after more loads, -then another trip for the sledges which were floated -along. Another dog played out in this march and was -killed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A long and hard day. Several fossils were observed -in the rocks and at the extremity of the cape, and one -was secured.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next march, in spite of every exertion, took us -only to View Point. With open water and shattered ice -on one side, and the entirely impracticable ice-foot -lake and Cape Henry cliffs on the other, our only -possible route was the crest of the stupendous and -now doubly ragged and chasm-intersected ice-foot. -Along this, after I had dug out a tortuous road with a -pickaxe, the sledges, one at a time, were pushed, -dragged, hauled, hoisted and lowered by all of us, and -sometimes unloaded and backed over the roughest -places.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then the snow slopes of the shore, interrupted with -patches of bare rocks, past Hamilton Fish Peak, then -the sea ice less broken here, then the shore snow, -and a river and strip of bare land, over which the -sledges were run on pole rollers, and finally to our camp -on dry gravel at View Point, the first time this side of -Columbia. An arduous march, long in time but short -in distance. Fortunately the finest of weather.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cape Joseph Henry is the most satisfying perhaps -of any of these northern capes, in an æsthetic sense. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>A striking vertical cliff dropping into deep water, there -is no buffer between it and the heaviest floes which -crash and grind against it incessantly, throwing up a -stupendous ice-foot, and making the surroundings of -the cape savage in the extreme throughout the entire -year.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the View Point camp, I told Egingwah he was to -go on to the <i>Roosevelt</i> in the morning alone, with a -letter to the Captain to send some men and dogs out -to meet me; and Ooblooyah and myself, after caching -one sledge and half our loads, would follow after him. -Of the five dogs remaining only one could really do any -work, and one was entirely useless.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Following Egingwah some two hours later, his -trail was of great assistance in negotiating the cracks -and pools. For perhaps three miles from camp there -was such a labyrinth of these, that I feared it would -take four days to reach the ship. Then the going -improved, and on a direct course to Cape Richardson, -we made good progress. Near the cape the ice was -rotten and we kept out into the bay. Finally after -wading several pools mid-thigh deep, we pitched our -tent on an elevated floe about a mile west of the north -end of William’s Island. Still fine weather. About -eight in the evening, we heard shouts, which were -answered, and a little before eleven, Marvin came in with -Ahwegingwah, Teddylingwah and Sigloo. Marvin told -me the <i>Roosevelt</i> had broken out from winter quarters at -Sheridan on the 4th of July, and had squeezed down -along the shore past Cape Union when she was smashed -against the ice-foot just south of the cape, tearing -another blade from the propeller, and breaking off her -<span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>stern-post and rudder. She was now laying at Shelter -River just south of Cape Union effecting repairs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Marvin had been unable to get north from Hecla, -owing to the breaking up of the ice, and working -westward had carried a valuable line of soundings -along the Grant Land coast as far west as Cape -Fanshawe Martin.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Captain Bartlett had made cross-sections of Robeson -Channel in accordance with my instructions. -Marvin and the Eskimos had come over to Sheridan to -wait for me. On the arrival of Egingwah they -started overland to meet us.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From my tent to the shore abreast of William’s -Island the going was over hummocky floes which were -now a succession of hummocks and deep pools. With -two inflated floats on the sledge, making a raft of it, -we made nearly direct for the shore, paying no attention -to pools less than hip deep. At the shore, high tide -barred us with a wide strip of clear water. Search in -each direction showing no practicable crossing, we -resorted to the ice cake ferry-boat method, and finally -gained the shore. Here we wrung out our foot-gear -and each taking a back-load, started for Sheridan, leaving -the sledge and other things for another trip.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This twelve mile trip was very unpleasant for me, -my wet foot-gear offering little or no protection to my -feet (softened by three weeks of constant soaking) -from the sharp stones. I was very glad to get to the -boat which had been left on the west side of the Cape -Sheridan River for this purpose, and pulling along the -ice-foot lake, arrived at the tent at noon, Tuesday, -July 26th. Here I found that Egingwah had gone on -to the ship. The two men came in a few hours later, -and I turned in, glad to feel that I did not have to travel -the next day. Friday morning the two men went back -for the other things. In the afternoon the fine weather -ceased, and it began to rain, changing to snow.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span> -<img src='images/i_237.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>TYPICAL ESKIMO DOG</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span> -<img src='images/i_238.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE CRUSH NEAR CAPE UNION<br /><br />Where the <i>Roosevelt</i> lost rudder, stern-post and part of propeller</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span>The ice-foot now was a broad, deep lake; the floe-bergs, -which lined the bank during the winter, were -gone except one or two, and their places taken by -others; at each ebb-tide there was a good bit of open -water outside them, but beyond this the pack was -apparently unbroken. The shore was not attractive, -strewn as it was with empty cans and refuse.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Saturday morning I started with Sigloo for the -<i>Roosevelt</i>, lying below Cape Union.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was very foggy, and raining a little at the time, -but Sigloo was positive he knew the trail.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the end of eight hours he was completely tangled -up; and as we were only about half-way to the ship, -and I did not care to be tramping all night with my -feet already severely bruised and pounded by the rocks, -I took a direct course back to the tent, showing Sigloo -the way to the ice-foot, which he would rather follow -to the <i>Roosevelt</i> than go back. At midnight I was -back to the tent with my feet almost useless. (Sigloo -reached the <i>Roosevelt</i> at eight the next morning.) -My men had come in with the sledge and things.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The rain and snow continued. About 8 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> Sunday -Ooblooyah and Ahwegingwah started for the -<i>Roosevelt</i>; between twelve and one, eight Eskimos came -in, in response to my message by Sigloo to the Captain, -and at 7 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> I started again, this time with Pewahto, -an older man than Sigloo, leaving Marvin with the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>others to build a cairn, set up a cross which he had -made from sledge runners, place a record, and then -come on with what things were left.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had given my feet complete rest since my return -from the previous attempt, and had fixed my foot-gear -in every way I could think of, including a pair of -heavy tin inner soles, but my feet were still very tender, -and I dreaded the tramp, and wished it over. At 7 -<span class='fss'>P. M.</span> I started, and anxious to have it over as soon as -possible, set my teeth and struck a good pace. One -thing was in my favour, it was clear now and I should -have to do no unnecessary travelling. At 3 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> -Monday, July 30th, I looked down on the <i>Roosevelt</i> -from the bluffs, and at 3:30 I climbed over her side, a -boat having brought me from the shore, thus ending -my western trip of fifty-eight days. Between the 23d -of February and the 30th of July, I had been on board -ship eight days.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My kamiks were cut through, my tin soles broken in -dozens of pieces, and my feet were hot, aching, and -throbbing, till the pain reached to my knees.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Within the next twelve hours Marvin and the rest -of the Eskimos came in, and the western trip was -ended.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The results of this trip had been particularly gratifying -to me in its closing of the gap in the coast line -between Aldrich’s and Sverdrup’s “Farthest,” which -was the main object of the trip; in its determination of -a new land to the northwest, and in its development of -what, I am satisfied, when the facts in regard to it are -known, will form one of the most unique and interesting -features of this region to the glacialist, namely -the broad glacial fringe of the Grant Land coast from -Hecla westward.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span> -<img src='images/i_241.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SIPSU AND HIS FAMILY<br /><br />Returning to the ship from Fort Conger</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span> -<img src='images/i_242.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ROOSEVELT” FORCED AGROUND IN WRANGEL BAY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_242b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ROOSEVELT” IN WRANGEL BAY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>The fact that the pleasure of the trip and of these -results was at least temporarily considerably dampened -by the extremely unpleasant features of the return -journey, is only the usual occurrence in all Arctic work.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XII<br /> <span class='large'>SHERIDAN TO ETAH</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>July 30th and 31st the weather was fine, the -channel pack surging back and forth with the -tides close alongside, and every now and then large -pieces crowding in against us, necessitating shifting -the <i>Roosevelt</i> by the lines to avoid them. The channel -pack consisted of very large floes packed closely together -and showing no signs of leads throughout the -entire width of the channel and as far north and south -as could be seen. The ship’s people assisted by the -Eskimos worked night and day to complete the -finishing touches to the new rudder so that we could take -advantage of the first opportunity to get away from -this exposed and dangerous position. From the -Captain I learned the story of the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> experiences -after the ice opened at Cape Sheridan. She had -had a crucial trial which few if any other ships would -have survived, and twice everything had been landed -from her in the belief that she would never leave her -present position.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Captain was enthusiastic over the model of the -ship and the ease with which she rose when nipped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Chief was enthusiastic about the size and strength -of her shaft which at one time during the nip that -did her so much damage, held the entire weight of the -after part of the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>About 6 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 31st, the ice loosened close along -the ice-foot towards Lincoln Bay, but before our lines -could be cast off it had closed in again. From here I -sent five Eskimos across overland after the skins of -some musk-oxen which had been killed earlier in the -season. About breakfast time Sipsu and his wife -came in from Conger. He was dressed out in cavalry -officer’s uniform, and he and his wife and his one dog -were loaded with pots and pans and packs and bundles -of every description till they looked like a troupe of -tramp pedlars.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 5 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> the ice eased off along the ice-foot again -and we got under way. The <i>Roosevelt</i> was very light -and in excellent trim for escaping a nip, but she was -leaking a good deal about the stern, and her twisted -stern-post made her very difficult to steer. After -running into the ice-foot two or three times she managed -to work her way around the point into Lincoln Bay, -along its north shore to its head, and across to the -south side where she was made fast in a comparatively -sheltered place. Her position was a vast improvement -upon her previous one where the caprice of a big floe -might at any moment force her high and dry on the -shore. As soon as we were fast, I sent one man back -to Shelter River to wait the return of the five men, -five others out after hare, and two others south to -assist Ootah, the other Conger Eskimo who was in -camp at Shift Rudder Bay, his wife having given birth -to a boy while <i>en route</i> to the ship. Here for the first -time since June 1st, I undressed and went to bed like -a civilised man. It seemed a bit strange. At 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> -we got under way again (one of the crew enlivening -<span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span>this occasion by falling overboard and narrowly -escaping drowning), and worked along the ice-foot to the -northern point of Wrangel Bay. Here a floe several -miles in diameter delayed us for an hour or more until -it moved enough for us to squeeze between it and the -point into the bay which was full of slack ice. Forcing -a way through this into the head of the bay, we dropped -anchor in water so shoal that it was thought it would -keep all heavy pieces of ice away from us. I was very -glad to reach the shelter of this bay. The stretch of -coast between Wrangel and Lincoln bays is one of the -worst places in this region for a ship to be caught. -The <i>Roosevelt</i> steered a little better than the day before, -but it still required very careful management to -get her along.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice offered no opportunity for leaving the bay -during the 2d, and about midnight it filled the bay so -completely that it forced the <i>Roosevelt</i> ashore. She -was pulled off during the 3d, but was again pushed -ashore late in the evening. All the Eskimos including -the family from Shift Rudder Bay came in on this date. -Very early on the 4th an unsuccessful attempt was -made to get around Cape Beechy, the ice crowding -in upon us and compelling the <i>Roosevelt</i> to retreat at -full speed. During the 5th we remained inactive, the -ice densely packed everywhere. During the night of -the 5th a reconnaissance from the peak of Cape Frederick -VIII showed water under the Greenland shore and -early in the morning of the 6th, the <i>Roosevelt</i> for the -third time essayed the crossing of Robeson Channel -through the dense pack, this time heading for Thank -God Harbour. The ice encountered was very heavy, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>but the <i>Roosevelt</i> kept moving slowly until about -2 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 7th, when she was somewhat east of -the middle of the channel and a little south of Cape -Beechy. At this time the ice ran together with the -turn of the tide preventing further movement, so we -made fast to a big floe and began drifting southward -with the pack. Soundings in the centre of the channel -gave depths of from 298 to 339 fathoms. During the -7th, 8th, and 9th we drifted southward, and some big -floes jamming across the channel from Cape Lieber to -Joe Island, we were shunted into the mouth of Lady -Franklin Bay on a line between Cape Baird and Discovery -Harbour.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here we remained without motion for eight days, -parties of Eskimos going ashore every day both to -Cape Baird and Distant Cape and Bellot Island. -These hunting parties secured some hare, a square -flipper seal, a common seal and on two or three -occasions came near getting a narwhal.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span> -<img src='images/i_251.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ESKIMO FAMILY GOING ASHORE AT LADY FRANKLIN BAY FOR WINTER AT FORT CONGER</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span> -<img src='images/i_252.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>TAKING SOUNDINGS IN KANE BASIN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>On the morning of the 18th the ice in which we were -imprisoned began to set into the bay again, doubtless -owing to pressure from the northward. This motion -continued throughout the day, and, toward midnight -the <i>Roosevelt</i> was subjected to severe pressure which -forced her up on to the heavy floe to which we were -moored, twisted her stern-post over to the port side, -and for a time threatened to tear another blade from -her propeller. We were now in the centre of the Bay -about six miles inside of Cape Baird, and opposite the -western entrance of Discovery Harbour. Motion continued -during the 19th, and at night the <i>Roosevelt</i> was -again subjected to pressures, which increased the leak -and it was necessary to keep the pumps going continually. -In this new position we remained motionless until -the 24th. During this time the hunting parties to the -shore were continued, obtaining more hare, two additional -square flipper seals, one common seal, and nine -musk-oxen. Eight families of the Eskimos also, who -believed that the <i>Roosevelt</i> would not get south this -season, went ashore with all their belongings in order to -begin hunting for their winter food supply as soon -as possible. I was not at all sorry to have them go -and fitted them out with guns and ammunition, for if -we did get away they and their families would be so -many less to look out for during the southern voyage, -and if we did not, their work ashore would count -toward the winter supplies of the entire party.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I confess that, though not admitting it, I was myself -doubtful as to our escape as the days wore along. -The <i>Alert</i> and <i>Discovery</i> got away from Discovery -Harbour August 20th, and the <i>Proteus</i> on the 26th -and they were much nearer to possible avenues of -escape than we, located as we were in the depths of the -bay. The weather and our surroundings also reminded -me altogether too strongly of our experience at Cape -D’Urville in 1898.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The outlook for our escape became so doubtful -that I made plans for another year’s enforced delay, -the programme contemplating the scouting of the -entire region from Cape Desfosse to Lincoln Bay, and -west through the drainage basin of Lake Hazen, by -several hunting parties working simultaneously; and -the establishment of colonies at Conger, Lake Hazen, -and the head of Archer Fiord.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span>About noon of the 24th the ice slackened a trifle, -and we were able to work about three miles toward -Cape Baird, then the ice and the fog both shut down -on us. After this we drifted eastward very slowly -until midnight, remained motionless during the 25th, -and on the 26th lost it all and settled back into the -bay again. At 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 27th, a very light air out -of Lady Franklin Bay began to drift us almost imperceptibly -eastward. At 5:30 the ice slackened -slightly, and we began to hammer our way eastward -for freedom and the water under the Greenland shore. -At first progress was fearfully slow, but improved later -and we worked across toward Cape Tyson, then rounding -an enormous floe were able to work down along -its eastern side and squeeze between it and Joe Island.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Whatever else might be in store for us there was -no longer any danger that we would be pocketed in -Lady Franklin Bay for another year, or that we would -be smashed against the savage cliffs that line the shore -of Daly Peninsula from Cape Lieber to Cape Desfosse. -From this time the <i>Roosevelt</i> made very satisfactory -progress until 6 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 29th when she was stopped -by impenetrable ice south and east of Hayes Point.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span> -<img src='images/i_255.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>BRINGING THE BEAR TO THE SHIP</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_255b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SITTING FOR HIS PHOTOGRAPH, WITH KOOLOOTINGWAH, PEWAHTOO, AND TEDDYLINGWAH<br /><br />POLAR BEAR KILLED IN KANE BASIN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span> -<img src='images/i_256.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE SHIP BEACHED FOR REPAIRS AT THE HEAD OF ETAH FIORD</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>From Joe Island to Hans Island our course lay close -to the Greenland shore among very large and heavy -floes. We passed east of Hans Island, and from Hans -Island to Cape Calhoun had practically open water. -From Cape Calhoun until we came to a stop heavy -floes were encountered again, becoming more and -more closely packed as we advanced. While passing -Franklin and Crozier Islands a fresh northeasterly -wind enabled us to set foresail, mizzenspencer, and -forestaysails, and for a little while gave the <i>Roosevelt</i> a -speed of ten knots. From the afternoon of the 29th -until 6 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of September 5th we were unable to -move, the ice which held us drifting slowly but steadily -to the southwest and packing against Bache Peninsula -and into Buchanan and Princess Marie bays. During -most of this time the weather was fine and numbers -of seals were observed upon the ice, several of which -the Eskimos secured.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the evening of the 8th, the ice slackened to the -southeast, I abandoned the idea of picking up my -Victoria Head Depot, and the <i>Roosevelt</i> was headed -for Cairn Point on the Greenland coast. From the -evening of September 5th until midnight of September -7th, we were able to make intermittent runs of a -few hours duration, the sum total of which placed -us somewhat more than half across Kane Basin. -During the 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th we lay imprisoned -among very heavy old floes close to a group of four -icebergs, a position which caused me considerable -uneasiness, particularly as a strong southerly gale was -blowing during two days of the time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 7 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of the 11th we made another short run -and during the five following days we worked southeastward -at every opportunity, gaining a mile or two -at almost every tide, then being nipped and crowded -(wedged is the better word, perhaps) southwestward -toward Sabine, by some huge field of ice forging -down along the Greenland coast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The weather was getting very sharp now, the young -ice formed and became extremely tough with great -rapidity, and while this time I had at heart no doubt -<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>of our eventual escape unless some unforeseen event -occurred, still the lateness of the season and our -surroundings were such as to make a repetition of the -<i>Polaris’s</i> experience, and a winter’s drift in the pack -by no means impossible.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The unforeseen contingency seemed to have arrived -when it was reported on the 14th that the propeller -was loose, and if we did any backing we would lose it. -Such a loss would of course mean a certainty of wintering -in the pack. Much to my relief an examination of -the propeller showed that only the nuts holding the -blades in place were loose, and these after nearly two -days of effort were with much difficulty tightened up, -and this danger, for a time at least, averted. During -the night of the 14th a floe not less than eight or ten -miles in diameter, crowding south on the ebb-tide, -wedged us and the ice about us over to within ten -miles of Cape Sabine. In return, however, for this -apparent injury it gave us a bear, the first seen by the -Expedition, and left along its northern edge a line of -cleavage through which we were able to butt and squeeze -a passage eastward once more, and reach a series of -areas of young ice from three to five inches in thickness. -To many a ship this ice would have been as impracticable -as the heavy floes through which we had been -working; but to the fine bow of the <i>Roosevelt</i>, which -Captain Dix had so carefully moulded, it proved no -obstacle, and she walked steadily through it in spite -of her crippled propeller and reduced boiler power.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And when after rounding the northeastern angle of -the floe and heading more to the south, it was possible -to set the sails to the fresh northerly wind, she trod -<span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span>the ice under her fore-foot with a steady roar at a -four or five knot pace. Finally after one or two -temporary delays where the corners of big floes locked -together, the ship, at 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 16th, pushed -her nose into open water somewhat north of Littleton -Island and steamed into Etah, thus ending a most -gallant battle with the ice which had begun on July 4th -and lasted for seventy-five days.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the crossing of Kane Basin six seals, one -bearded seal, two hood seals, and one polar bear were -obtained. Soundings made by Marvin at various -points across the basin, showed a very regular bottom, -and depths much less than in Robeson and Kennedy -Channels or between Sabine and Littleton Island. -These soundings ranged from 101 to 139 fathoms.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At Etah I found not only the Eskimo families -whom I had transplanted there the summer before, -but others who had come since with a view to meeting -the ship on her return. They had given up hopes of -our return this season until some three days previous -when active old Ahmah, Merktoshah’s wife, walking -overland to Anoritok had seen our smoke far out in -Kane Basin. From these natives I learned that the -season had been an unusual one, the ice everywhere -remaining until very late. As soon as we arrived the -heavy anchor and cable which we had left here the year -before were taken on board, and Captain Bartlett -reconnoitred several places in the vicinity looking -for a suitable place to beach the <i>Roosevelt</i> and repair -her stern and propeller. Nothing satisfactory was -found and we steamed up to the head of the fiord in -the northeast corner of which was a place that could -<span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>be made to do. Here the stern of the <i>Roosevelt</i> was -warped close inshore at high tide, and during the next -few tides the stern was calked, the stern-post, which -had been twisted back and forth by the ice so many -times that it was now only a menace to the propeller, -was cut away, and the nuts fastening the propeller-blades -set up again. Some ballast was also taken on -board between times. During all this time the wind -was blowing strongly from the north and Smith Sound -seen out through the mouth of the fiord was a cauldron -of whirling clouds, fog and snow. When this work -was completed we steamed back to Etah and took on -board the coal. This work was greatly hampered -first by the strong wind which on one trip swamped -our boat raft, and afterwards by the young ice through -which it was at times almost impossible to warp the -raft back and forth between the ship and the shore. -The lower portion of the coal also was frozen and had -to be loosened with dynamite. Late in the evening of -the 20th, the <i>Roosevelt</i> steamed out of Etah leaving -about half of my Eskimos there.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span> -<img src='images/i_263.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>VIEW OF THE STERN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span> -<img src='images/i_264.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>ESKIMO HOUSES AT KOOKAN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIII<br /> <span class='large'>ETAH TO NEW YORK</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>As we left Etah loose ice was streaming down -past the mouth of the fiord. Cape Alexander -was reached at midnight and the <i>Roosevelt</i> headed for -Cape Isabella to run a line of soundings across Smith -Sound as far as the ice would permit. About ten -miles from Alexander the solid edge of the ice was -encountered extending unbroken from there to the -Ellesmere Land shore. This ice was very heavy and -appeared to have no cracks or openings in it. The -sounding here was 438 fathoms. The <i>Roosevelt</i> then -headed away for Cape Chalon steaming around a point -of the pack which reached nearly in to the Greenland -shore above Sonntag Bay. Steaming into Whale -Sound, which was filled with icebergs, fragments of -ice and sheets of newly formed young ice, numbers -of walrus were seen and ten secured, though with great -difficulty as the young ice made it almost impossible -to approach them. We then steamed into Kookan -to land more of my Eskimos, and the anchor was hardly -down off the delta of the stream, when a large sheet of -comparatively heavy young ice drove against us and -pushed the <i>Roosevelt’s</i> stern ashore almost at the crest -of high-water.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This extremely annoying incident held us here until -the following noon, but the occurrence was turned to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>account by additional calking of the stern and again -tightening and this time wedging the bolts of the propeller -blades. Steaming out from Kookan the tough -young ice now several inches in thickness, retarded our -progress seriously for some three miles. As we got -out of the bay it became less dense. Heading for -the passage between Herbert and Northumberland -islands, six walrus of those that were directly on our -route were secured and passing between the islands, -we steamed for Cape Parry. Off this cape we got out -of the young ice entirely, and steamed southward in -open water. Another contingent of my Eskimos -wishing to be landed at Oomunui on the south side of -Wolstenholm Sound, we steamed in behind Saunders -Island securing six large bull walrus. Young ice of -too great thickness for us to penetrate, prevented our -reaching Oomunui and an attempt was made to land -the Eskimo at Narksami between Oomunui and Cape -Athol. The anchor was dropped off this place but -the movement and thickness of the young ice was such -that I did not think it advisable to delay here even -for an hour, and the anchor was immediately hoisted -again and we forged slowly out through young ice -which required all the power we could summon to -negotiate it.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span> -<img src='images/i_267.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPE YORK, 76° NORTH LATITUDE<br /><br />Northern limit of Melville Bay and most southerly settlement of the Whale Sound Eskimos</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_268.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>HANGING OUR NEW RUDDER AT HOPEDALE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_268b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SAWING WOOD TO FEED THE FURNACES ALONG THE LABRADOR COAST</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span>The nights now were very dark. Off Cape Athol -we got free of the young ice again, and steaming south -in open water, were off Cape Dudley Diggs early the -following morning and steamed into Parker Snow -Bay to land the last of my Eskimos. This day was -a perfect one of brilliant sunshine and pronounced -warmth. The Eskimos worked with a will landing -their belongings, their dogs, and the walrus meat -which I had secured for the purpose of carrying them -through the winter, as I was bringing them back at -the close of the hunting season when they could hope -to secure only a scanty supply of food before the winter -set in. By night everything was landed, and several -tents set up on the shore. As the darkness came down -it began to snow, accompanied by light wind from -the southeast. In the morning the whole country -was white with snow and a vicious southeaster in -progress which held us here until the following morning. -This time was occupied in getting the <i>Roosevelt</i> -ready for rough water. From Cape Union to here all -provisions, ammunition and equipment of all kinds -had been carried on deck ready to be thrown ashore -or out upon the ice whenever the necessity arose. -This deck load was now transferred to the hold, and -the ship generally put in better trim for the mauling -which we were sure to receive at this season of the -year once we got clear of the ice. As soon as the -weather moderated sufficiently we steamed to Cape -York where four families were found. Here we made -fast to the newly formed land ice and remained -three or four hours while repairing a bent eccentric. -The natives here reported that the ice in Melville Bay -had gone out but a short time previous, and during -the entire season no ship had been able to approach -the Cape, an occurrence which has not happened -before since my acquaintance with this region, dating -back to 1891.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Leaving Cape York late in the afternoon of the -26th, in a dense snowstorm, which doubled the gloom -<span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>of the already descending night, we groped our way -in almost complete darkness out through the numerous -icebergs, and felt that we had really begun the homeward -voyage. The darkness during this night was -so intense that we slowed down to half-speed. The -following afternoon a fresh breeze accompanied by -a heavy swell set in from the southeast, and the -rolling of the ship washed out some ashes in the fire-room, -clogging the suctions of all the pumps, and -allowing the water in the fire-room to rise to the stoke-hole -plates before it was noticed. During the next -two days the <i>Roosevelt</i> was hove-to while the fire-room -was cleared of water, the pumps overhauled and -got in commission again, and steps taken to prevent -a recurrence of the trouble. During this time the -weather remained thick and the wind continued from -the southeast. When we got under way it was impracticable -to make the Greenland coast and we continued -down the middle of Baffin’s Bay. At midnight -of September 30th we rounded the end of the -middle pack and in the afternoon of October 1st, in -a fresh southeast breeze and heavy swell, the foretopmast -broke off at the springstay, and went overboard -carrying with it the topmast rigging, barrel, -and flying jib. October 3d we made the west coast -just above Cape Dyer and followed it past Walsingham -and Mercy, and across the mouth of Cumberland Sound, -until 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 6th, when about seven miles north -of Monumental Island, a sea striking under the starboard -quarter broke the rudder-stock square off, -rendering us helpless.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was very thick at the time and the <i>Roosevelt</i> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span>was hove-to heading eastward to avoid being drifted -upon the ragged coast about Cape Haven. A spar -was got ready and rigged out as a jury rudder, but -we were scarcely under way again when the wind -came on from the northeast, and in two or three hours -the rising sea had carried away the improvised rudder. -After this we hove-to again, the storm increasing to -almost hurricane violence for some thirty-six hours and -raising a heavy sea. The <i>Roosevelt</i> proved herself a -fine sea boat, lying to under double-reefed foresail -with the same ease as one of the best of our Banks -fishing schooners, and though she repeatedly rolled -her rail to the water, she did not ship a bucketful of -green sea.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the slackening of the gale followed some twenty-four -hours of chop sea off the mouth of Hudson Strait -and work was commenced on a second rudder which, -after two days of work under extreme difficulties, was -finally completed and hung, the men being flung back -and forth across the deck as they worked. The next -day we made the Labrador coast at what is perhaps the -worst locality in its northern portion, known as the Pot -Rocks. Threading our way through these in fog and -driving snow, with the breakers on either side, we kept -off the coast and had no distinct view of it until the 13th, -when it could be seen clearly enough for us to determine -that we were just north of Sagdlek Bay. As we were -now entirely out of water and had but a few tons of -coal left, I determined to put into Hebron in hopes -that we might secure a few tons of coal there. Darkness -fell while we were still several miles from Hebron, -but Captain Bartlett had been there some years before -<span class='pageno' id='Page_272'>272</span>and he skilfully worked the ship through the crooked -channels to her anchorage. No coal was to be had -here but we obtained water and a few essential supplies, -and early Monday morning started for Nain, taking -the inside passage from Cape Mugford with which -Captain Bartlett fortunately was familiar. Lying to -during the night we reached Nain shortly after noon the -following day.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here some wood and a little blubber and two or three -tons of coal-dust were obtained after much delay, due -to heavy squalls which prevented the passage of boats -from the ship to the shore. These squalls were so -violent that they tore one of our boats loose and drifted -it away. The Eskimo women here did all the work -of loading and unloading the wood.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Still following the inside route, we proceeded to -Hopedale where more wood was obtained, and more -delay experienced from heavy wind. The second -night the squalls were so violent that even in the inner -harbour the <i>Roosevelt</i> dragged both anchors and went -aground; coming off easily, however, at the next high -tide.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On leaving the harbour the ship was found to be -so light that in the fresh northwester then blowing -she would not answer her helm. Both anchors were -let go and when at night the wind moderated, she -worked back into the harbour where she was beached, -rudder hoisted out and rebuilt, the stern recalked, -natives employed to bring ballast and work the pumps, -while we awaited the arrival of the mail steamer -to secure coal, without which I did not think it advisable -to proceed farther along this coast at this -season of the year with the <i>Roosevelt</i> in her present -condition.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_273'>273</span> -<img src='images/i_273.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>HULDA A LABRADOR ESKIMO GIRL AT NAIN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_274'>274</span> -<img src='images/i_274.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>HOPEDALE<br /><br />Moravian missionary station on the Labrador coast</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_275'>275</span>On the arrival of the mail steamer seven tons of -coal were secured with which in snowstorms and head -winds except for the last few miles, still following the -inside passage through the intricacies of which Bartlett -handled the ship with masterly skill, we reached -the whaling station at Hawke’s Harbour and secured -two more tons which brought us to Battle Harbour, -where we arrived in the evening of November 2d.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The following day forty tons of coal were taken on -board and while the work was in progress a southeaster -set in accompanied by rain. From this time until -the 12th, the wind continued heavy from southeast, -east, and northeast, accompanied by rain, snow, -generally thick weather and a heavy sea. The 12th -was a clear day but the sea heaving into the narrow -and tortuous entrance to the harbour, made it inexpedient -to attempt to go out. On the 13th another -southeaster set in with driving snow but the sea was -down for a few hours and advantage was taken of this -to steam round into Assizes Harbour, which affords -good shelter. The entire time of our stay in Battle -Harbour was a period of continuous anxiety and -efforts to keep the ship from being driven ashore by -the violent undertow which makes this harbour the -worst on the Labrador coast when any sea is running.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During this time the <i>Roosevelt</i> was moored as follows: -on the port bow our heaviest anchor and cable -let go in the middle of the harbour, a heavy chain cable -attached to a ring-bolt on shore, and a 4–inch -line; on the port quarter two 6–inch manila hawsers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_276'>276</span>and a ¾–inch diameter steel-wire cable; on the starboard -bow our 1¼–inch light-house-test chain cable -made fast to a projection of the solid ledge on shore, -and two 4–inch manila lines; on the starboard side of -the waist four 3½–inch lines; on the starboard quarter -four 3½–inch lines, and a chain cable attached to a -ring-bolt ashore.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With all these moorings the ship surged back -and forth so violently as to break several of the smaller -lines, tear out two of the ring-bolts let into the rocks, -and break off the stock of our 2,200–pound anchor.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Bartlett’s unremitting efforts, however, kept her -from going ashore. Each mooring as it parted was -replaced by another in spite of every difficulty.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Battle Harbour, the voyage was a series of -head winds and sea and innumerable delays of one -kind and another.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At early dawn of November 23d the <i>Roosevelt</i> -steamed into Sydney harbour and dropped anchor, -over four months and a half from Cape Sheridan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This homeward voyage was the most wearing and -annoying part of the entire expedition, compensated -for, in part at least, by the return of every member of -the expedition in as good or better condition than at -starting and the return of the ship with injuries of but -a temporary nature.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Sydney, the ship as the weather permitted -crept down the coast arriving in New York Harbour -Christmas Eve.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_277'>277</span> -<img src='images/i_277.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>OOBLOOYAH<br /><br />Young Eskimo man of about twenty-three</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_278'>278</span> -<img src='images/i_278.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>A GROUP OF ESKIMO WOMEN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_279'>279</span>The relations of the personnel of the party were -particularly happy. Personally, I never spent a year -in the Arctic regions so entirely free from the petty -annoyances and friction which are usually a most -disagreeable feature of an Arctic expedition. Captain -Bartlett proved himself invaluable and was unsparing -of himself in his efforts for the success of the -expedition and the safety of the <i>Roosevelt</i>. Chief -Engineer Wardwell, from the time of the failure of our -water-tube boilers, two days out from Sydney, had a -particularly trying and difficult time, and found the -fullest scope for all his ingenuity and resources.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Dr. Wolf looked after the health of the expedition -with unremitting care and skill and there was no serious -illness. The Doctor also did his full share of the spring -sledge work.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Mr. Marvin, while on board ship and during the -winter hunting in the interior and throughout the -spring and summer sledging campaigns assumed his -full share of the work. Henson, and Percy, my steward, -tried in years of Arctic experience, again proved their -worth.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The officers and men were interested and willing. -Mate Bartlett was in charge of the <i>Roosevelt</i> during the -absence of Captain Bartlett and myself. Boatswain -Murphy was of material assistance in the field. Two -of the firemen, Clark of Massachusetts, and Ryan of -Newfoundland, took an active part in the spring sledge -work.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> was very effective even with her -reduced power, forcing her way through the heaviest -ice and apparently impassable places, and coming -safely through experiences which I am satisfied no -other ship afloat would have survived. Young ice, -even of very considerable thickness, she trod under -<span class='pageno' id='Page_280'>280</span>her with great facility, and under serious pressures -she rose readily and easily.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As a sea boat she was equally satisfactory, lying to in -the October North Atlantic gale off Resolution Island -rudderless under double-reefed foresail, with all the -ease and dryness of one of our best Banks fishing -schooners. For this the fullest credit is due her builder, -Captain Chas. B. Dix, who put his whole heart and -years of experience into her construction.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The main results of the Expedition may be summarised -as follows:</p> - -<p class='c009'>First.—The attainment of the “highest North” -leaving a distance of but 174 nautical miles yet to -be conquered this side of the Pole, narrowing the -unknown area between my highest and Cagni’s to -less than 381 miles, and throwing the major remaining -unknown Arctic area into the region between the -Pole and Bering Strait.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Second.—The determination of the existence of a -distant new land northwest of the northwestern part -of Grant Land, probably an island in the westerly -extension of the North American archipelago.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Third.—The distinct widening of our horizon as -regards ice and other conditions in the western half of -the central Polar Sea.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Fourth.—The traversing and delineation of the -unknown coast between Aldrich’s farthest west in -1876, and Sverdrup’s farthest north in 1902.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Fifth.—The determination of the unique glacial -fringe and floeberg nursery of the Grant Land coast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Tidal and meteorological observations have been -made, soundings taken in the Smith Sound outlet of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_281'>281</span>the Polar Sea, also along the north coast of Grant Land, -and samples of the bottom secured; the existence of -considerable numbers of the Arctic reindeer in the most -northern lands determined; the range of the musk-ox -widened and defined, a new comparative census of the -Whale Sound Eskimos made, etc., etc.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It seems proper also to note that the result of the -last Expedition of the Peary Arctic Club has been to -simplify the attainment of the Pole fifty per cent.; -to accentuate the fact that man and the Eskimo dog -are the only two mechanisms capable of meeting all -the various contingencies of serious Arctic work, and -that the American route to the Pole and the methods -and equipment used remain the most practicable for -attaining that object.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Had the winter of 1905 to 1906 been a normal season -in the Arctic regions and not, as it was, a particularly -open one, there is not a member of the Expedition who -doubts that we would have attained the Pole.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And had I known before leaving the land what -actual conditions were to the northward, as I know -now, I could have so modified my route and my disposition -of sledges that I believe we could have reached -the Pole even in spite of the open season.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Another expedition, following in my steps, and profiting -by my experience, can not only attain the Pole, -but can secure the other remaining principal desiderata -in the central Arctic Sea, namely, a line of deep-sea -soundings from the north shore of Grant Land to the -Pole, and the delineation of the unknown gap in the -northeast coast line of Greenland from Cape Morris -Jesup southward to Cape Bismarck. This work can be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_282'>282</span>accomplished by an expedition absent for the same -length of time as the last one, and with a lesser -expenditure.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It must be borne constantly in mind that the -expedition which has accomplished this work, has -been the expedition of the Peary Arctic Club, and -that all results are due entirely to the generosity -and public spirit of the members of that Club, and -particularly to the unfailing interest and unflagging -efforts of its President, Morris K. Jesup.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_285'>285</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIV<br /> <span class='large'>THE PEARY ARCTIC CLUB</span></h2> -</div> -<p class='c020'>“To reach the Farthest Northern Point on the Western -Hemisphere; to Promote and Maintain Exploration of the -Polar Regions.”</p> - -<h3 class='c021'>1898–1902</h3> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c022'>The history of The Peary Arctic Club divides itself, -first, into that of the subscribers sustaining -the 1898–1902 Expeditions, and second, of the incorporators -of the Club, in 1904, under the laws of the -State of New York. The subscribers met for the first -time at No. 44 Pine Street, N. Y., Jan. 29, 1899, and -having before them Commander Peary’s letters and -reports from Etah, North Greenland, Aug. 12, 1898, -adopted the name of “The Peary Arctic Club” and -a Constitution, setting forth that “the objects of the -Club are to promote and encourage explorations of -the Polar regions, as set forth in Lieutenant R. E. -Peary’s letter dated January 14, 1897, and to assist -him in securing additional information regarding the -geography of the same; to receive and collect such -objects of scientific interest or otherwise as may be -obtainable through Lieutenant Peary’s present expedition -or other expeditions of like nature; to receive, -collect and keep on file narratives and manuscripts -relative to Arctic explorations; to preserve -such records and keep such accounts as may be necessary -<span class='pageno' id='Page_286'>286</span>for the purpose of the association; and further -to command in its work the resources of mutual -acquaintance and social intercourse”; declaring that -contributors to the expedition, including those absent, -were Founders of the Club and elected the following -officers: President, Morris K. Jesup; Vice-President, -Frederick E. Hyde; Treasurer, Henry W. Cannon; -Secretary, Herbert L. Bridgman. Alfred C. Harmsworth -(Lord Northcliffe) was elected an Honorary -Member of the Club in recognition of his gift of the -<i>Windward</i> to Commander Peary.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Club despatched the steamer <i>Diana</i>, Captain -Samuel W. Bartlett of St. John, N. F., in command of its -Secretary, H. L. Bridgman, from Sydney, C. B., on July -27, 1899, whither she returned on September 15th, having -in the meantime successfully accomplished her mission -in depositing at Etah her stores, effecting a junction -with Commander Peary at Etah on August 12th, and -returning with her consort, the <i>Windward</i>, which had -wintered at Cape D’Urville, Ellesmere Land. The <i>Windward</i>, -preceding the <i>Diana</i> one week in her departure -from Etah, arrived at Brigus, N. F., two days earlier, -having on board the scientific records and personal -effects of each officer and man of the Lady Franklin -Bay Expedition; the sextant abandoned in 1876 by -Lieutenant, now Rear-Admiral, Albert Beaumont, -R. N. at Cape Britannia, Greenland, and copies of the -Nares-Markham records from the cairns of Norman -Lockyer and Washington Irving islands, all recovered -by Commander Peary in 1898 and 1899. The personal -effects were subsequently distributed by the Club to -the survivors and next of kin of the deceased, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_287'>287</span>relics of the Royal Navy deposited, through the Lords -of the Admiralty in the Royal Naval Museum, at -Greenwich.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Club sent the <i>Windward</i>, repaired and improved -and in command of Captain Samuel W. Bartlett, North -in the following year, 1900, with Mrs. Peary and Marie -Ahnighito Peary on board, leaving Sydney, C. B., on -July 21st, with instructions to proceed to Etah, and -failing to find there Commander Peary, to cross Smith -Sound to Cape Sabine and press forward as far as might -be necessary to open communication with him. The -<i>Windward</i> failing to return, the Club in 1901 chartered -the <i>Erik</i>, and despatched her in command of Secretary -Bridgman from Sydney, C. B., July 18th, with instructions -to proceed first to Etah, and then to act as circumstances -suggested. The <i>Erik</i> arrived at Etah on August -5th, where Commander Peary and the <i>Windward</i> were -found, all on board well, the ship having wintered in -Payer Harbour under Cape Sabine, where she was joined -on May 6th, by Commander Peary from Fort Conger. -The <i>Erik</i> and <i>Windward</i>, after the greater part of -August in the north waters, returned, the former to -Sydney, C. B., September 15th, with Commander -Peary’s report of his delineation in 1900 of the -northern end of Greenland, and Lockwood and Brainard’s -original record from their cairn in 1882 at their -farthest, and the <i>Windward</i> to Brigus, September 24th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>New boilers and engines having been installed in the -<i>Windward</i>, she sailed a third time for the North from -Sydney, C. B., July 20th, 1902, with Mrs. and Miss Peary -on board; effected a junction with Commander Peary -on August 5th at Cape Sabine; and, after a stay of less -<span class='pageno' id='Page_288'>288</span>than a day, brought away the expedition with the record -of 84.17 North (the highest on the Western Continent), -in May, 1902. The party, library, instruments, and -all the remaining equipment of the Lady Franklin -Bay Expedition arrived at Sydney, C. B., September -5th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The founders of the Club were: Morris K. Jesup, -Henry W. Cannon, James J. Hill, John M. Flagler, -Frederick E. Hyde, E. C. Benedict, H. Hayden Sands, -A. A. Raven, Henry Parish, Eben B. Thomas, James -M. Constable, Herbert L. Bridgman, Henry H. Benedict, -and Eliphalet W. Bliss.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Full contributing members, Edward G. Wyckoff -and Clarence W. Wyckoff, of Ithaca, N. Y., and Grant -B. Schley, of New York, were in 1899 elected to membership -in the club, and President Charles P. Daly, -of the American Geographical Society, to its executive -committee, in recognition of the contribution by the -Society.</p> - -<h3 class='c023'>1904–190–(?)</h3> - -<p class='c024'>The Charter of the Peary Arctic Club, April 19, -1904, recites that the objects of the incorporation are -“to aid and assist in forming and maintaining certain -expeditions to be placed under Commander Robert -E. Peary, U. S. N., with the object of continuing his -explorations of the Polar Regions and completing the -geographical data of the same, receiving and collecting -such objects of scientific interest as may be obtainable -through such expeditions; collecting, receiving, and -preserving narratives and manuscripts relating to -Arctic explorations in general; soliciting and administering -<span class='pageno' id='Page_289'>289</span>funds for the maintenance of such expeditions, -and, in general, providing funds for Commander -Peary’s efforts to reach the farthest northern point on -the Western Hemisphere, and to coöperate with any -other association for the same purpose,” and names -as incorporators:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c025'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Morris K. Jesup</div> - <div class='line'>Anton A. Raven</div> - <div class='line'>Herbert L. Bridgman</div> - <div class='line'>John A. Flagler</div> - <div class='line'>Henry Parish</div> - <div class='line'>Robert E. Peary</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Immediately upon incorporation, the Club addressed -itself to the construction of a ship for its work, plans -for which were designed, based upon the experience -of former expeditions of Commander Peary. Contracts -were made with the late Captain Charles -B. Dix of Bucksport, Me., where her keel was laid -October 15, 1904, and the ship launched and christened -<i>Roosevelt</i> by Mrs. Peary, March 23, 1905. Installation -of machinery at Portland occupied the next two -months, and early in July, the <i>Roosevelt</i> arrived -under her own steam at New York, whence in July -of that year, she was despatched to the North, paying -President Jesup of the Club a parting call at Bar Harbour, -Me. On arriving at Sydney, C. B., Captain -Robert A. Bartlett assumed command and on July -26th she departed for the North. The auxiliary -collier <i>Erik</i> accompanied the <i>Roosevelt</i> as far as Etah, -whence on August 16, 1905, the <i>Roosevelt</i> began her -battle with the ice, and the <i>Erik</i> returned to St. -Johns, N. F.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The subsequent movements of the Club’s expedition -are contained in the preceding pages.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_290'>290</span>The list of the contributors to the present Peary -Arctic Club is as follows:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c025'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Appalachian Mountain Club</div> - <div class='line'>Archer, George A.</div> - <div class='line'>Bellows, H. M.</div> - <div class='line'>Bement, L. C.</div> - <div class='line'>Benedict, H. H.</div> - <div class='line'>Benjamin, Julian A.</div> - <div class='line'>Berri, William</div> - <div class='line'>Bourne, F. G.</div> - <div class='line'>Bridgman, Herbert L.</div> - <div class='line'>Brockway, R. M.</div> - <div class='line'>Bryant, Henry G.</div> - <div class='line'>Cannon, H. W.</div> - <div class='line'>Chamberlain, Leander</div> - <div class='line'>Cheney, Mrs. Charles P.</div> - <div class='line'>Church, Alfred W.</div> - <div class='line'>Clapp, Henry Lyman</div> - <div class='line'>Clarkson, Banyer</div> - <div class='line'>Close, Frances H.</div> - <div class='line'>Colgate, Jas. C.</div> - <div class='line'>Coolidge, J. R.</div> - <div class='line'>Crane, Zenas</div> - <div class='line'>Crocker, George</div> - <div class='line'>Delafield, L. L.</div> - <div class='line'>Dodge, Cleveland H.</div> - <div class='line'>Doughty, Ella</div> - <div class='line'>Drexel, Mrs. Joseph</div> - <div class='line'>Ford, Simeon</div> - <div class='line'>Geographical Society, American</div> - <div class='line'>Gilder, R. W.</div> - <div class='line'>Heilprin, A.</div> - <div class='line'>Hobson, Richmond P.</div> - <div class='line'>Holbrook, L.</div> - <div class='line'>Hubbard, Thomas H.</div> - <div class='line'>Huntington, A. M.</div> - <div class='line'>Huyler, John S.</div> - <div class='line'>Jesup, Mrs. Morris K.</div> - <div class='line'>Jesup, Morris K.</div> - <div class='line'>Jones, Walter R. T.</div> - <div class='line'>Kerr, W.</div> - <div class='line'>Kimball, A. R.</div> - <div class='line'>Kinnicutt, Dr. and Mrs.</div> - <div class='line'>Kleybolte, Rudolph</div> - <div class='line'>Knapp, Dr. Herman</div> - <div class='line'>Low, William G.</div> - <div class='line'>Merrill, Fullerton</div> - <div class='line'>Mitchell, S. Weir</div> - <div class='line'>Moss, Charles H.</div> - <div class='line'>Noyes, Henry T., Jr.</div> - <div class='line'>Parish, Henry</div> - <div class='line'>Parsons, John E.</div> - <div class='line'>Perkins, W. H.</div> - <div class='line'>Phillips, Dr. John C.</div> - <div class='line'>Pyne, M. Taylor</div> - <div class='line'>Rae, Samuel</div> - <div class='line'>Raven, Anton A.</div> - <div class='line'>Reynolds, Edward C.</div> - <div class='line'>Robbins, Chandler</div> - <div class='line'>Robbins, Harriet L.</div> - <div class='line'>Schieren, Charles A.</div> - <div class='line'>Schiff, Jacob H.</div> - <div class='line'>Schiff, Mortimer L.</div> - <div class='line'>Schott, C. M., Jr.</div> - <div class='line'>Smith, J. H.</div> - <div class='line'>Squires, Grant</div> - <div class='line'>Torrance, H.</div> - <div class='line'>Trevor, John S.</div> - <div class='line'>Upton, Frank S.</div> - <div class='line'>Vaill, D. L.</div> - <div class='line'>Van Post, H. C.</div> - <div class='line'>Victor, J. A.</div> - <div class='line'>Wallace, D. H.</div> - <div class='line'>Ward, Joseph M.</div> - <div class='line'>Williams, G. A.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>H. L. Bridgman, Secretary and Treasurer,</div> - <div>Peary Arctic Club.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_291'>291</span> - <h3 class='c023'>MONTHLY MEANS OF BAROMETRIC READINGS AT CAPE SHERIDAN, 1905–1906</h3> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>(Regular barometric readings were taken at 7 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span>, 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, and 9 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> daily)</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table1'> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>Mean for 27 days in</td> - <td class='c027'>August, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>29.920</td> - <td class='c028'>inches of Hg<a id='t291'></a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>September, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>29.848</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>October, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>30.122</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>November, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>29.897</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>December, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>29.796</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>January, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>30.012</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>February, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>29.955</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>March, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>30.035</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>April, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>29.801</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>May, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>30.245</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>June, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>29.816</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ first 6 days in</td> - <td class='c027'>July, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>29.664</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<h3 class='c023'>MONTHLY MEANS OF THERMOMETRIC READINGS AT CAPE SHERIDAN, 1905–1906</h3> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>(Regular thermometric readings were taken daily at 7 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span>, 2 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, and 9 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>)</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table1'> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>Mean for 27 days in</td> - <td class='c027'>August, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>+36.86</td> - <td class='c028'>°F.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>September, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>+12.66</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>October, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>–8.40</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>November, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>–17.24</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>December, 1905</td> - <td class='c014'>–21.83</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>January, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>–29.55</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>February, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>–31.14</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>March, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>–32.28</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>April, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>–0.40</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ „ „ „</td> - <td class='c027'>May, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>+19.34</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c026'>„ „ first 17 days in</td> - <td class='c027'>June, 1906</td> - <td class='c014'>+32.18</td> - <td class='c028'>„</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_295'>295</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XV<br /> <span class='large'>REPORT OF COMMANDER PEARY, ON WORK DONE IN THE ARCTIC IN 1898–1902</span></h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'><i>President Jesup, and Members of the Peary Arctic Club:</i></p> - -<p class='c009'>In January, 1897, I promulgated my plan for an -extended scheme of Arctic exploration, having for its -main purpose the attainment of the North Pole. -During the spring of 1897, your President, Morris K. -Jesup, became interested in the matter, and suggested -the idea of the present Club. His example was followed -by other prominent men, and late in May, -through the persistent personal efforts of Chas. A. -Moore, backed by letters from these and other influential -men, five years leave of absence was granted -me by the Navy Department, to enable me to carry -out my plans.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It being too late that season to get the main expedition -under way, the summer of 1897 was devoted to a -preliminary trip to the Whale Sound region, to acquaint -the Eskimos with my plan for the coming year, and set -them to work laying in a stock of skins and meat. -These objects were successfully accomplished, and in -addition the great “Ahnighito” meteorite of Melville -Bay, the largest known meteorite in the world, was -brought home.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_296'>296</span>In December, 1897, while I was in London, the steam -yacht <i>Windward</i>, which had been used in his Franz -Joseph Land expedition, was tendered to me by Alfred -Harmsworth, who offered to have her re-engined and -delivered to me in New York. This generous offer -I accepted.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the spring of 1898 the Peary Arctic Club was -organised, Morris K. Jesup, Henry W. Cannon, H. L. -Bridgman, all personal friends of mine, forming the -nucleus about which the rest of you assembled, and -in May the <i>Windward</i> arrived; but, to my regret and -disappointment, the machinists’ strike in England -having prevented the installation of new engines, she -was practically nothing but a sailing craft.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The lateness of the season was such that I had to -make the most of the <i>Windward</i> as she was. But her -extreme slowness (3½ knots under favourable circumstances), -and the introduction of a disturbing factor -in the appropriation by another of my plan and field -of work, necessitated the charter of an auxiliary ship -if I did not wish to be distanced. The <i>Windward</i> -sailed from New York on the 4th of July, 1898, and on -the 7th I went on board the <i>Hope</i> at Sydney, C. B.</p> - -<h3 class='c023'>1898–1899</h3> - -<p class='c024'>Pushing rapidly northward, and omitting the usual -calls at the Danish Greenland ports, Cape York was -reached after a voyage, uneventful except for a nip -in the ice of Melville Bay, which lifted the <i>Hope</i> bodily, -and for a few hours seemed to contain possibilities -of trouble.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_297'>297</span>The work of hunting walrus and assembling my -party of natives was commenced at once, the <i>Windward</i> -soon joined us, after which the hunting was prosecuted -by both ships until the final rendezvous at Etah, -whence both ships steamed out on Saturday, August -13th, the <i>Windward</i> to continue northward, the -<i>Hope</i> bound for home. The Windward was four -hours forcing her way through a narrow barrier -of heavy ice across the mouth of Foulke Fiord. -Here the <i>Hope</i> left us, straightening away southward -toward Cape Alexander, and the <i>Windward</i> -headed for Cape Hawkes, showing distinctly beyond -Cape Sabine.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At 4 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> Sunday we encountered scattered ice -off Cape Albert. About noon we were caught in the -ice near Victoria Head, and drifted back several -miles. Finally we got round Victoria Head into -Princess Marie Bay at 6 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> The bay was filled -with the season’s ice, not yet broken out, while Kane -Basin was crowded with the heavy, moving polar pack. -Between the two, extending northward across the -mouth of the bay, was a series of small pools and -threads of water, opening and closing with the movements -of the tide. At 11:30 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of the 18th the <i>Windward</i> -had worried her way across the bay to a little -patch of open water close under Cape D’Urville. -Here further progress was stopped by a large floe, -several miles across, one end resting against the shore, -the other extending into the heavy ice. While crossing -the bay the more important stores had been stowed -on the deck in readiness to be thrown out upon the ice -in the event of a nip. Pending the turning of the tide, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_298'>298</span>when I hoped the big floe would move and let us proceed, -I landed at Cape D’Urville, deposited a small -cache of supplies and climbed the bluffs to look at the -conditions northward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>August 21st, I went on a reconnoissance along the ice-foot -to the head of Allman Bay and into the valley -beyond. The night of the 21st young ice formed, -which did not melt again. On the 28th I attempted -to sledge over the sea ice to Norman Lockyer Island, -but found too many weak places, and fell back on the -ice-foot. The night of the 29th the temperature fell -to –13° F., and on the 31st the new ice was four and a -quarter inches thick. On this day I went to Cape -Hawkes and climbed to its summit, whence I could see -lakes out in Kane Basin, but between them and the -<i>Windward</i> the ice was closely packed—a discouraging -outlook. Only a strong and continued westerly wind -would give me any chance. I could not leave the ship -for fear an opportunity to advance would occur in my -absence.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 2d, I started on a sledge trip up Princess -Marie Bay. At Cape Harrison the strong tidal current -kept the ice broken, so that I could not round it, and -the ice-foot was impracticable for sledges. I went on -foot to the entrance of Cope’s Bay, surveying the shore -to that point, and returned to the ship after four days. -During this trip I obtained the English record from -the cairn on the summit of Norman Lockyer Island, -left there twenty-two years ago. This record was -as fresh as when deposited.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 6th, I left the ship to reconnoitre Dobbin -Bay, the head of which is uncharted, returning three -<span class='pageno' id='Page_299'>299</span>days later. During this trip the first real snowstorm -of the season occurred, five and a half inches falling.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 12th, one-third of my provisions, an -ample year’s supply for the entire party, was landed -at Cape D’Urville, my Eskimos sledging loads of 700 -to 1,000 pounds over the young ice. The night of the -13th the temperature dropped to –10° F., and all -hope of further advance was at an end. September -15th the boiler was blown off and preparations for -winter commenced.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 17th I broached my plans for the winter -campaign, as follows:</p> - -<p class='c009'>The autumn work was simple enough and outlined -itself. It comprised two items: the securing of a -winter’s supply of fresh meat and the survey of the -Buchanan-Strait-Hayes-Sound-Princess-Marie-Bay region. -In spite of the peculiarly desolate character -of that part of the Grinnell Land coast immediately -about the <i>Windward</i>, and the apparent utter absence -of animal life, I felt confident of accomplishing the -former. Various reconnoissances thus far, on the -north shore of Princess Marie Bay, had given me little -encouragement, but I knew that the Eskimos had -killed one or two musk-oxen, in years past, on Bache -Island, and that region looked favourable for them. -As regarded the survey, a presentiment that I must -begin it at the earliest moment had led me to make -attempts to reach the head of Princess Marie Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As to the spring campaign, I proposed to utilise the -winter moons in pushing supplies to Fort Conger, to -move my party to that station early in February, and -on the return of the sun start from there as a base and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_300'>300</span>make my attempt on the Pole <i>via</i> Cape Hecla. I -<i>might</i> succeed in spite of the low latitude of my starting -point, and, in any event, could reach the ship again -before the ice broke up, with thorough knowledge of -the coast and conditions to the north.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 18th, I left the ship with two sledges and -my two best Eskimos, with provisions for twelve days -for a reconnoissance of Princess Marie Bay. September -20th I reached the head of a small fiord running -southwest from near the head of Princess Marie Bay, -and found a narrow neck of land, about three miles -wide, separating it from a branch of Buchanan “Strait.” -Bache “Island” of the chart is, therefore, a peninsula -and not an island. From a commanding peak in the -neighbourhood I could see that both arms of Buchanan -“Strait” ended about south of my position; that the -“strait” is in reality a bay, and that Hayes Sound does -not exist. On the 21st and 22d I penetrated the -arms of Princess Marie Bay, designated as Sawyer and -Woodward bays on the charts, and demonstrated them -to be entirely closed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 23d, while entering a little bight about -midway of the north shore of Bache Peninsula, I came -upon two bears. These my dogs chased ashore and -held at bay until I could come up and kill them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 25th, I crossed Bache Peninsula on foot -with my two men, from Bear Camp to the intersection -of the northern and southern arms of Buchanan Bay. -Here we found numerous walrus, and could command -the southern arm to the large glacier at its head. -Comparatively recent musk-ox tracks convinced me -of the presence of musk-oxen on the peninsula. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_301'>301</span>next day I returned to the <i>Windward</i> to refit and start -for Buchanan Bay <i>via</i> Victoria Head and Cape Albert -in the quest of walrus and musk-oxen. Henson, in a -reconnoissance northward during my absence, had -been unable to get more than a few miles beyond -Cape Louis Napoleon, the sea ice and the ice-foot -being alike impracticable. A day or two after my -return I started him off to try it again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>September 30th, I started for Buchanan Bay. Between -Victoria Head and Cape Albert I found fresh -tracks of a herd of musk-oxen, and followed them until -obliterated by the wind. The walrus grounds in Buchanan -Bay were reached late on October 4th, and the -next day I secured a walrus and the remainder of my -party arrived. The following day everyone was out -after musk-oxen; but, finding it very foggy on the uplands -of the peninsula, I returned to camp and went -up Buchanan Bay in search of bears. While I was -away one of my hunters killed a bull musk-ox.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 7th I sent two men to bring in the meat and -skin, while I went up Buchanan Bay again. Returning -to camp, I found it deserted. A little later some -of the party returned, reporting a herd of fifteen musk-oxen -killed. The next two days were consumed in -cutting up the animals, stacking the meat and getting -the skins and some of the meat out to camp.</p> - -<p class='c009'>October 10th, we started for the ship, which was -reached late on the 12th. The ice in Buchanan Bay -was very rough, and a snowstorm on the 11th made -going very heavy. Five days later, October 17th, I -went with two men to locate a direct trail for getting -the meat out to the north side of the peninsula, but -<span class='pageno' id='Page_302'>302</span>found the country impracticable, and returned to the -ship on the 21st. The sun left us on the 20th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The following week was devoted to the work of -preparation for the winter. A reconnoissance of -Franklin Pierce bay developed nothing but hare tracks, -but Henson came in from Cope’s Bay with a big bear, -killed near the head of the bay. This marked the end -of the fall campaign, with our winter’s fresh meat -supply assured and the Bache-“Island”-Buchanan-“Strait”-“Hayes-Sound” -question settled.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next step was the inauguration of the teaming -work, which was to occupy us through the winter. I -already had my pemmican and some miscellaneous -supplies at Cape Louis Napoleon and two sledge loads -of provisions at Cape Fraser. The rapidly disappearing -daylight being now too limited for effective travelling, -I was obliged to await the appearance of the next moon -before starting for a personal reconnoissance of the -coast northward. On the 29th I left the ship with -Henson and one Eskimo. The soft snow of the last -two storms compelled me to break a road for the sledges -with snowshoes across Allman Bay and along many -portions of the ice-foot, but in spite of this delay we -camped at Cape Louis Napoleon after a long march.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next day we reached Cape Fraser, having been -impeded by the tide rising over the ice-foot, and camped -at Henson’s farthest, at the beginning of what seemed -an impracticable ice-foot. It was the only possible -way of advance, however, as the still-moving pack in -the channel was entirely impassable. The following -day I made a reconnoissance on foot as far as Scoresby -Bay, and though the ice-foot was then impracticable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_303'>303</span>for sledges, I was convinced that a good deal of earnest -work with picks and shovels, assisted by the levelling -effects of the next spring tides, would enable me to get -loaded sledges over it during the next moon. From -Cape Norton Shaw I could see that by making a detour -into Scoresby Bay the heavy pack could be avoided -in crossing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This stretch of ice-foot from Cape Fraser to Cape -Norton Shaw is extremely Alpine in character, being -an almost continuous succession of huge blocks and -masses of bergs and old floes, forced bodily out of the -water and up on to the rocks. At Cape John Barrow -a large berg had been forced up on the solid rock of the -high-tide level.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Returning from my reconnoissance, I camped again -at Cape Fraser, building the first of the snow igloos, -which I intended should be constructed at convenient -intervals the entire distance to Fort Conger. The next -three days were occupied in bringing the supplies at -Cape Louis Napoleon up to Cape Fraser, and on the -4th of November I returned to the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The time until the return of the next moon was -fully occupied in making and repairing sledges, bringing -in beef from the cache on Bache Peninsula, and transporting -supplies and dog-food to Cape Hawkes, beyond -the heavy going of Allman Bay. During much of this -time the temperature was in the –40°’s, Fahr.</p> - -<p class='c009'>November 21st, Henson and three Eskimos left with -loads, and on the 22d I followed with a party of three -to begin the work of the November moon. This work -ended just after midnight of December 4th, when the -last sledges came in. It left 3,300 pounds of supplies -<span class='pageno' id='Page_304'>304</span>and a quantity of dog-food at Cape Wilkes, on the -north side of Richardson Bay. These supplies would -have been left at Cape Lawrence had it not been for -the desertion and turning back of one of my men, -discouraged with the hard work, while crossing Richardson -Bay. Knowing it to be essential to prevent any -recurrence of the kind, I pushed on to Cape Wilkes, -camped and turned in after a twenty-five-hours day, -slept three hours, then started with empty sledge, -eight picked dogs, and an Eskimo driver, to overtake -my man. He was found at Cape Louis Napoleon, and, -after receiving a lesson, was taken along with me to -the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My party was left with instructions to bring up -supplies which the wrecking of sledges had obliged me -to cache at various places, assemble all at Cape Wilkes, -and then, if I did not return, reconnoitre the ice-foot to -Rawlings Bay, and return to the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The distance from Cape Wilkes to the <i>Windward</i> -was sixty nautical miles in a straight line (as travelled -by me along the ice-foot and across the bays, not less -than ninety statute miles); and was covered in 23 -hours and 20 minutes, or 21 hours 30 minutes actual -travelling time. Temperature during the run –50° F.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Every sledge was more or less smashed in this two -weeks’ campaign, and at Cape John Barrow sledges -and loads had to be carried on our backs over the ice -jams. The mean daily minimum temperature for -the thirteen days was –41.2° F., the lowest –50° F., -which occurred on four successive days.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The experience gained on this trip led me to believe -that the conditions of travel from Cape Wilkes -<span class='pageno' id='Page_305'>305</span>northward as far at least as Cape Defosse would not -differ materially from those already encountered, and -enabled me to lay my plans with somewhat greater -detail. With the light of the December moon I would -proceed to Cape Wilkes with such loads as would enable -me to travel steadily without double-banking, advance -everything to Cape Lawrence on the north side of -Rawlings Bay, then go on to Fort Conger with light -sledges, determine the condition of the supplies left -there that I might know what I could depend upon, -and then return to the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the January moon I would start with my entire -party; move supplies from Cape Lawrence to Fort -Conger; remain there till the February moon, the -light of which would merge into the beginning of the -returning daylight; then sledge the supplies for the -polar journey to Cape Hecla, and be in readiness to -start from there with rested and well-fed dogs by the -middle of March.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In pursuance of this plan, the two weeks intervening -between the departure of the November moon and the -appearance of the December one were busily occupied -in repairing and strengthening sledges, and making -and overhauling clothing and equipment, to enable us -to meet this long and arduous journey in the very -midnight of the “Great Night.” During this interval -the temperature much of the time was at –51° F. and -lower.</p> - -<p class='c009'>December 20th, in the first light of the returning -moon, I left the <i>Windward</i> with my doctor, Henson, four -Eskimos, and thirty dogs, all that were left of the sixty-odd -of four months previous. Thick weather, strong -<span class='pageno' id='Page_306'>306</span>winds rushing out of Kennedy Channel, heavy snow and -an abominable ice-foot in Rawlings Bay delayed us, -and it was not until the 28th that I had all my supplies -assembled at Cape Lawrence, on the north side of -Rawlings Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cape Lawrence presented the advantage of two possible -routes by which these latter supplies could be -reached from Conger, one through Kennedy Channel, -which I was about to follow, and the other <i>via</i> Archer -Fiord and overland. In spite of the delays I felt, -on the whole, well satisfied with the work up to the -end of the year. I had all my supplies half way to -Fort Conger, and had comfortable snow igloos erected -at Cape Hawkes, Cape Louis Napoleon, Cape Fraser, -Cape Norton Shaw, Cape Wilkes, and Cape Lawrence.</p> - -<p class='c009'>December 29th, I started from Cape Lawrence with -light sledges for Fort Conger, hoping to make the distance -in five days. The first march from Cape Lawrence -the ice-foot was fairly good, though an inch or two -of efflorescence made the sledges drag as if on sand. -The ice-foot grew steadily worse as we advanced, until, -after rounding Cape Defosse, it was almost impassable, -even for light sledges. The light of the moon lasted -only for a few hours out of the twenty-four, and at its -best was not sufficient to permit us to select a route -on the sea ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Just south of Cape Defosse we ate the last of our -biscuit, just north of it the last of our beans. On the -next march a biting wind swept down the Channel and -numbed the Eskimo who had spent the previous winter -in the United States, to such an extent, that, to -save him, we were obliged to halt just above Cape -<span class='pageno' id='Page_307'>307</span>Cracroft and dig a burrow in a snowdrift. When the -storm ceased, I left him with another Eskimo and nine -of the poorer dogs, and pushed on to reach Fort -Conger.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The moon had left us entirely now, and the ice-foot -was utterly impracticable, and we groped and stumbled -through the rugged sea ice as far as Cape Baird. Here -we slept a few hours in a burrow in the snow, then -started across Lady Franklin Bay. In complete darkness -and over a chaos of broken and heaved-up ice, -we stumbled and fell and groped for eighteen hours, -till we climbed upon the ice-foot of the north side. -Here a dog was killed for food.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Absence of suitable snow put an igloo out of the -question, and a semi-cave under a large cake of ice -was so cold that we could stop only long enough to -make tea. Here I left a broken sledge and nine exhausted -dogs. Just east of us a floe had been driven -ashore, and forced up over the ice-foot till its shattered -fragments lay a hundred feet up the talus of the bluff. -It seemed impassable, but the crack at the edge of the -ice-foot allowed us to squeeze through; and soon after -we rounded the point, and I was satisfied by the “feel” -of the shore, for we could see nothing, that we were -at one of the entrances of Discovery Harbour, but -which, I could not tell.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Several hours of groping showed that it was the -eastern entrance. We had struck the centre of Bellot -Island, and at midnight of January 6th we were stumbling -through the dilapidated door of Fort Conger. A -little remaining oil enabled me, by the light of our -sledge cooker, to find the range and the stove in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_308'>308</span>officers’ quarters, and, after some difficulty, fires were -started in both. When this was accomplished, a -suspicious “wooden” feeling in the right foot led me -to have my kamiks pulled off, and I found, to my -annoyance, that both feet were frosted.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Coffee from an open tin in the kitchen, and biscuit -from the table in the men’s room, just as they had -been dropped over fifteen years ago, furnished the -menu for a simple but abundant lunch. A hasty -search failing to discover matches, candles, lamps, or -oil, we were forced to devise some kind of a light very -quickly, before our oil burned out. Half a bottle of -olive oil, a saucer, and a bit of towel furnished the -material for a small native lamp, and this, supplemented -by pork fat and lard, furnished us light for -several days, until oil was located. Throwing ourselves -down on the cots in the officers’ rooms, after everything -had been done for my feet, we slept long and soundly. -Awakening, it was evident that I should lose parts -or all of several toes, and be confined for some weeks. -The mean minimum temperature during the trip was -–51.9° F., the lowest –63° F.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the following weeks our life at Conger was -pronouncedly <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">a la</span></i> Robinson Crusoe. Searching for -things in the unbroken darkness of the “Great Night,” -with a tiny flicker of flame in a saucer, was very like -seeking a needle in a haystack. Gradually all the -essentials were located, while my two faithful Eskimos -brought in empty boxes and barrels and broke them -up to feed the fire. The dogs left on Bellot Island -were brought in, but several died before they got used -to the frozen salt pork and beef, which was all I had to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_309'>309</span>feed them. The natives made two attempts to reach -and bring in the two men left at Cape Cracroft, but were -driven back both times by the darkness and furious -winds. Finally, some ten days after we left the dug-out, -they reached it again, and found that the two men, -after eating some of their dogs, had started for the ship -on foot, the few remaining dogs following them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 18th of February, the moonlight and the -remaining twilight afforded enough light for a fair -day’s march in each twenty-four hours; and we started -for the <i>Windward</i>. My toes were unhealed, and I -could hardly stand for a moment. I had twelve dogs -left, but their emaciated condition and the character -of the road precluded riding by anyone but myself. -Lashed firmly down, with feet and legs wrapped in -musk-ox skin, I formed the only load of one sledge. -The other carried the necessary provisions.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 28th we reached the <i>Windward</i>, everyone -but myself having walked the entire distance, of not -less than 250 miles, in eleven days. Fortunately for -us, and particularly for me, the weather during our -return, though extremely cold, was calm, with the -exception of one day from Cape Cracroft south, during -which the furious wind kept us enveloped in driving -snow. The mean minimum daily temperature while -we were returning was –56.18° F., reaching the lowest, -–65° F., the day we arrived at the <i>Windward</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>March 3d I started one of my Eskimos for Whale -Sound with a summons to the hunters there to come -to me with their dogs and sledges. Between the 3d -and the 14th, a party of Eskimos coming unexpectedly, -the last of the musk-ox meat on Bache Peninsula was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_310'>310</span>brought to the ship, and another bull musk-ox -killed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>March 13th, the final amputation of my toes was performed. -Pending the arrival of more natives, I sent a -dory to Cape Louis Napoleon to be cached, and had -dog-food and current supplies advanced to Cape Fraser.</p> - -<p class='c009'>March 31st, a contingent of five natives and twenty-seven -dogs came in. My messenger had been delayed -by heavy winds and rough ice, and the ravages of the -dog disease had made it necessary to send to the more -southerly settlements for dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 3d, Henson left with these natives and thirty-five -dogs, with instructions to move the supplies at -Cape Lawrence to Carl Ritter Bay, then push on with -such loads as he could carry without double-banking -to Fort Conger, rest his dogs and dry his clothing, -and if I did not join him by that time to start back.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 19th, my left foot had healed, though it was still -too weak and stiff from long disuse for me to move -without crutches. On this day I started for Fort -Conger with a party of ten, some fifty dogs, and seven -sledges loaded with dog-food and supplies for return -caches.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 23d, I met Henson returning with his party at -Cape Lawrence. From there I sent back my temporary -help and borrowed dogs, and went on with a party -of seven, including five natives. April 28th we reached -Conger.</p> - -<p class='c009'>May 4th, having dried all our gear and repaired -sledges, I started for a reconnoissance of the Greenland -northwest coast. I should have started two days -earlier but for bad weather. Following the very arduous -<span class='pageno' id='Page_311'>311</span>ice-foot to St. Patrick’s Bay, I found the bay -filled with broken pack ice covered with snow almost -thigh deep. From the top of Cape Murchison, with -a good glass, no practicable road could be seen. The -following day I sent two men with empty sledges and -a powerful team of dogs to Cape Beechey, to reconnoitre -from its summit. Their report was discouraging. -Clear across to the Greenland shore, and up and down -as far as the glass could reach, the channel was filled -with unheaved floe fragments, uninterrupted by young -ice or large floes, and covered with deep snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Crippled as I was, and a mere dead weight on the -sledge, I felt that the road was impracticable. Had -I been fit and in my usual place, ahead of the sledges -breaking the trail with my snowshoes, it would have -been different. One chance remained—that of finding -a passage across to the Greenland side at Cape -Lieber.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Returning to Fort Conger, I sent Henson and one -Eskimo off immediately on this reconnoissance, and -later sent two men to Musk-ox Bay to look for musk-oxen. -Two days afterward they returned reporting -sixteen musk-oxen killed, and Henson came in on the -same day, reporting the condition of the channel off -Capes Lieber and Cracroft the same as that off Capes -Beechey and Murchison, and that they had been unable -to get across. I now gave up the Greenland trip, and -perhaps it was well that I did so, as the unhealed place -on my right foot was beginning to break down and -assume an unhealthy appearance from its severe treatment. -As soon as the musk-ox skins and beef were -brought in, the entire party, except myself and one -<span class='pageno' id='Page_312'>312</span>Eskimo, went to the Bellows and Black Rock Vale for -more musk-oxen. Twelve were killed there, and the -skins and meat brought to Conger.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Not believing it desirable to kill more musk-oxen, -and unable to do any travelling north, I completed -the work of securing the meat and skins obtained; -getting the records and private papers of the United -States Lady Franklin Bay Expedition together; -securing as far as possible collections and property; -housing material and supplies still remaining serviceable, -and making the house more comfortable for the -purposes of my party.</p> - -<p class='c009'>May 23d we started for the ship, carrying only the -scientific records of the expedition, the private papers -of its members, and necessary supplies. I was still -obliged to ride continuously. Favoured with abundant -light and continuously calm weather, and forcing -the dogs to their best, the return to the ship was accomplished -in six days, arriving there May 29th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During my absence Capt. Bartlett had built at Cape -D’Urville, from plans which I furnished him, a comfortable -house of the boxes of supplies, double-roofed -with canvas, and banked in with gravel.</p> - -<p class='c009'>June 1st, I sent one sledge-load of provisions to Cape -Louis Napoleon, and four to Cape Norton Shaw. -June 6th, I sent three loads to Carl Ritter Bay, and two -to Cape Lawrence. On the 23th of June, the last of -these sledges returned to the <i>Windward</i>, and the year’s -campaign to the north was ended. The return from -Carl Ritter Bay had been slow, owing to the abundance -of water on the ice-foot and the sea ice of the bays, and -the resulting sore feet of the dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_313'>313</span>June 28th, a sufficient number of dogs had recovered -from the effect of their work to enable me to make up -two teams, and Henson was sent with these, four of -the natives and a dory, to make his way to Etah and -communicate with the summer ship immediately on -her arrival, so that her time would not be wasted even -should the <i>Windward</i> be late in getting out of the ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>June 29th, I started with two sledges and three natives -to complete my survey of Princess Marie and Buchanan -bays, and make a reconnoissance to the westward -from the head of the former. My feet, which I had -been favouring since my return from Conger, were now -in fair condition, only a very small place on the right -one remaining unhealed. Travelling and working at -night, and sleeping during the day, I advanced to -Princess Marie Bay, crossed the narrow neck of Bache -Peninsula, and camped on the morning of July 4th -near the head of the northern arm of Buchanan Bay. -Hardly was the tent set up when a bear was seen out -in the bay, and we immediately went in pursuit, and in -a short time had him killed. He proved to be a fine -large specimen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>While after the bear, I noticed a herd of musk-oxen -a few miles up the valley, and after the bear had been -brought into camp and skinned, and we had snatched -a few hours’ sleep, we went after the musk-oxen. -Eight of these were secured, including two fine bulls -and two live calves, the latter following us back to -camp of their own accord. The next three days were -occupied in getting the beef to camp. I then crossed -to the southern arm of Buchanan Bay, securing another -musk-ox. Returning to Princess Marie Bay, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_314'>314</span>I camped on the morning of the 14th at the glacier, -which fills the head of Sawyer Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the following six days I ascended the glacier, -crossed the ice-cap to its western side, and, from -elevations of from 4,000 to 4,700 feet, looked down -upon the snow-free western side of Ellesmere Land, -and out into an ice-free fiord, extending some fifty -miles to the northwest. The season here was at least -a month earlier than on the east side, and the general -appearance of the country reminded me of the Whale -Sound region of Greenland. Clear weather for part -of one day enabled me to take a series of angles, then -fog and rain and snow settled down upon us. Through -this I steered by compass back to and down the glacier, -camping on the 21st in my camp of the 15th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The return from here to the ship was somewhat -arduous, owing to the rotten condition of the one-year -ice, and the deep pools and canals of water on the surface -of the old floes. These presented the alternative -of making endless detours or wading through water -often waist deep. During seven days our clothing, -tent, sleeping-gear and food were constantly saturated. -The <i>Windward</i> was reached on the 28th of July.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In spite of the discomforts and hardships of this -trip, incident to the lateness of the season, I felt repaid -by its results. In addition to completing the notes -requisite for a chart of the Princess-Marie-Buchanan-Bay -region, I had been fortunate in crossing the Ellesmere -Land ice-cap, and looking upon the western -coast. The game secured during this trip comprised -1 polar bear, 7 musk-oxen, 3 oogsook,<a id='r3'></a><a href='#f3' class='c019'><sup>[3]</sup></a> and 14 seals.</p> - -<div class='footnote' id='f3'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. Bearded seal.</p> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_315'>315</span>When I returned to the <i>Windward</i> she was round -in the eastern side of Franklin Pierce Bay. A party -had left two days before with dogs, sledge and boat, -in an attempt to meet me and supply provisions. -Three days were occupied in communicating with them -and getting them and their outfit on board. The -<i>Windward</i> then moved back to her winter berth at -Cape D’Urville, took the dogs on board, and on the -morning of Wednesday, August 2d, got under way.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the next five days we advanced some twelve -miles, when a southerly wind jammed the ice and -drifted us north, abreast of the starting point. Early -Tuesday morning, the 8th, we got another start, and -the ice gradually slackening, we kept under way, -reached open water a little south of Cape Albert, and -arrived at Cape Sabine at 10 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span></p> - -<p class='c009'>At Cape Sabine I landed a cache and then steamed -over to Etah, arriving at 5 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 9th. Here we -found mail and learned that the <i>Diana</i>, which the Club -had sent up to communicate with me, was out after -walrus. August 12th the <i>Diana</i> returned, and I had -the great pleasure of taking Secretary Bridgman, commanding -the Club’s Expedition, by the hand.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The year had been one of hard and continuous work -for the entire party. In that time I obtained the -material for an authentic map of the Buchanan-Bay-Bache-Peninsula-Princess-Marie-Bay -region; crossed -the Ellesmere Land ice-cap to the west side of that -land, established a continuous line of caches from -Cape Sabine to Fort Conger, containing some fourteen -tons of supplies; rescued the original records and -private papers of the Greely Expedition; fitted Fort -<span class='pageno' id='Page_316'>316</span>Conger as a base for future work, and familiarised myself -and party with the entire region as far north as -Cape Beechey.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the exception of the supplies at Cape D’Urville, -all the provisions, together with the current supplies -and dog-food (the latter an excessive item), had been -transported by sledge.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Finally, discouraging as was the accident to my feet, -I was satisfied, since my effort to reach the northwest -coast of Greenland from Fort Conger in May, proved -that the season was one of extremely unfavourable ice -conditions north of Cape Beechey, and I doubt, even -if the accident had not occurred, whether I should -have found it advisable on reaching Cape Hecla to -attempt the last stage of the journey.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My decision not to attempt to winter at Fort Conger -was arrived at after careful consideration. Two things -controlled this decision: First, the uncertainty of -carrying dogs through the winter, and, second, the -comparative facility with which the distance from -Etah to Fort Conger can be covered with light sledges.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After the rendezvous with the <i>Diana</i> I went on board -the latter ship, and visited all the native settlements, -gathering skins and material for clothing and sledge -equipment, and recruiting my dog-teams.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Windward</i> was sent walrus hunting during my -absence. The <i>Diana</i> also assisted in this work. -August 25th the <i>Windward</i> sailed for home, followed on -the 28th by the <i>Diana</i>, after landing me with my -party, equipment, and additional supplies at Etah.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Diana</i> seemed to have gathered in and taken -with her all the fine weather, leaving us a sequence of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_317'>317</span>clouds, wind, fog, and snow, which continued with -scarcely a break for weeks.</p> - -<p class='c009'>After her departure the work before me presented -itself as follows: To protect the provisions, construct -our winter quarters, then begin building sledges, and -grinding walrus meat for dog pemmican for the spring -campaign.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the first month a number of walrus were -killed from our boats off the mouth of the fiord; then -the usual Arctic winter settled down upon us, its monotony -varied only by the visits of the natives, occasional -deer-hunts, and a December sledge journey to the -Eskimo settlements in Whale Sound as far as Kangerdlooksoah. -In this nine days’ trip some 240 miles were -covered in six marches, the first and the last marches -being of 60 to 70 miles. I returned to Etah just in -time to escape a severe snowstorm, which stopped -communication between Etah and the other Eskimo -settlements completely, until I sent a party with snowshoes -and a specially constructed sledge, carrying no -load, and manned by double teams of dogs, to break -the trail.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During my absence some of my natives had crossed -to Mr. Stein’s place at Sabine, and January 9th I began -the season’s work by starting a few sledge loads -of dog-food for Cape Sabine, for use of my teams in -the spring journey. From this time on, as the open -water in Smith Sound permitted, more dog-food was -sent to Sabine, and as the light gradually increased -some of my Eskimos were kept constantly at Sonntag -Bay, some twenty miles to the South, on the lookout -for walrus.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_318'>318</span>My programme for the spring work was to move -three divisions of sledges north as far as Conger, the -first to be in charge of Henson; while I brought up the -rear with the third.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Fort Conger I should send back a number of -Eskimos; retain some at Conger; and with others -proceed north <i>via</i> Hecla or the north point of Greenland, -as circumstances might determine.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I wanted to start the first division on the 15th of -February, the second a week later, and leave with the -third March 1st; but a severe storm, breaking up the -ice between Etah and Littleton Island, delayed the -departure of the first division of seven sledges until -the 19th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The second division of six sledges started on the -26th, and March 4th I left with the rear division of -nine sledges. Three marches carried us to Cape Sabine, -along the curving northern edge of the north water. -Here a northerly gale, with heavy drift, detained me -for two days. Three more marches in a temperature -of –40° F. brought me to the house at Cape D’Urville. -Records here informed me that the first division had -been detained here a week by stormy weather, and the -second division had left but two days before my -arrival. I had scarcely arrived when two of Henson’s -Eskimos came in from Richardson Bay, where one -of them had severely injured his leg by falling -under a sledge. One day was spent at D’Urville -drying our clothing, and on the 13th I got away -on the trail of the other divisions with seven sledges, -the injured man going to Sabine with the supporting -party.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_319'>319</span>I hoped to reach Cape Louis Napoleon on this march, -but the going was too heavy, and I was obliged to -camp in Dobbin Bay, about five miles short of the cape. -The next day I hoped on starting to reach Cape Fraser, -but was again disappointed, a severe windstorm compelling -me to halt a little south of Hayes Point, and -hurriedly build snow igloos in the midst of a blinding -drift. All that night and the next day, and the next -night, the storm continued. An early start was made -on the 16th, and in calm but very thick weather, we -pushed on to Cape Fraser. Here we encountered the -wind and drift full in our faces, and violent, making -our progress from here to Cape Norton Shaw along -the ice-foot very trying.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The going from here across Scoresby and Richardson -bays was not worse than the year before; and from -Cape Wilkes to Cape Lawrence the same as we had -always found it. These two marches were made in -clear but bitterly windy weather.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Another severe southerly gale held us prisoners at -Cape Lawrence for a day. The 20th was an equally -cruel day, with wind still savage in its strength, but the -question of food for my dogs gave me no choice but -to try to advance. At the end of four hours we were -forced to burrow into a snow-bank for shelter, where -we remained till the next morning.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In three more marches we reached Cape Leopold -von Buch. Two more days of good weather brought -us to a point a few miles north of Cape Defosse. -Here we were stopped by another furious gale with -drifting snow, which prisoned us for two nights and -a day.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_320'>320</span>The wind was still bitter in our faces when we again -got under way the morning of the 27th, the ice-foot -became worse and worse up to Cape Cracroft, where -we were forced down into the narrow tidal joint, at -the base of the ice-foot; this path was a very narrow -and tortuous one, frequently interrupted, and was -extremely trying on men and sledges. Cape Lieber -was reached on this march. At this camp the wind -blew savagely all night, and in the morning I waited -for it to moderate before attempting to cross Lady -Franklin Bay. While thus waiting the returning -Eskimos of the first and second divisions came in. -They brought the very welcome news of the killing -of 21 musk-oxen close to Conger. They also reported -the wind out in the bay as less severe than at the Cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I immediately got under way and reached Conger -just before midnight of the 28th—24 days from Etah—during -six of which I was held up by storms.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first division had arrived four days and the -second two days earlier. During this journey there -had been the usual annoying delays of broken sledges, -and I had lost numbers of dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The process of breaking in the tendons and muscles -of my feet to their new relations, and the callousing -of the amputation scars, in this, the first serious -demand upon them, had been disagreeable, but -was, I believed, final and complete. I felt that I had -no reason to complain.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The herd of musk-oxen so opportunely secured near -the station, with the meat cached here the previous -spring, furnished the means to feed and rest my dogs. -A period of thick weather followed my arrival at Conger -<span class='pageno' id='Page_321'>321</span>and not until April 2d could I send back the Eskimos -of my division.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On leaving Etah I had not decided whether I should -go north from Conger <i>via</i> Cape Hecla, or take the route -along the northwest coast of Greenland. Now I -decided upon the latter. The lateness of the season -and the condition of the dogs might militate against -a very long journey; and if I chose the Hecla route and -failed of my utmost aims, the result would be complete -failure. If, on the other hand, I chose the Greenland -route and found it impossible to proceed northward -over the pack, I still had an unknown coast to exploit -and the opportunity of doing valuable work. Later -developments showed my decision to be a fortunate -one.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I planned to start from Conger the 9th of April, but -stormy weather delayed the departure until the 11th, -when I got away with seven sledges.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the first camp beyond Conger my best Eskimo -was taken sick, and the following day I brought him -back to Conger, leaving the rest of the party to cross -the channel to the Greenland side, where I would overtake -them. This I did two or three days later, and -we began our journey up the northwest Greenland -coast. As far as Cape Sumner we had almost continuous -road-making through very rough ice. Before -reaching Cape Sumner we could see a dark water sky, -lying beyond Cape Brevoort, and knew that we should -find open water there.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Cape Sumner to Polaris Boat Camp, in Newman -Bay, we cut a continuous road. Here we were -stalled until the 21st by continued and severe winds. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_322'>322</span>Getting started again in the tail end of the storm, we -advanced as far as the open water, a few miles east -of Cape Brevoort, and camped. This open water, -about three miles wide at the Greenland end, extended -clear across the mouth of Robeson Channel to the -Grinnell Land coast, where it reached from Lincoln -Bay to Cape Rawson. Beyond it, to the north and -northwest, as far as could be seen, were numerous lanes -and pools. The next day was devoted to hewing a -trail along the ice-foot to Repulse Harbour, and on the -23d, in a violent gale, accompanied by drift, I pushed -on to the “Drift Point” of Beaumont (and later Lockwood), -a short distance west of Black Horn Cliffs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice-foot as far as Repulse Harbour, in spite of -the road-making of the previous day, was very trying -to sledges, dogs, and men. The slippery side slopes, -steep ascents, and precipitous descents wrenched and -strained the men, and capsized, broke, and ripped -shoes from the sledges.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I was not surprised to see from the “Drift Point” -igloo that the Black Horn Cliffs were fronted by open -water. The pack was in motion here, and had only -recently been crushing against the ice-foot, where we -built our igloo. I thought I had broken my feet in -pretty thoroughly on the journey from Etah to Conger; -but this day’s work of handling a sledge along the ice-foot -made me think they had never encountered any -serious work before. A blinding snowstorm on the -24th kept us inactive. The next day I made a reconnoissance -to the Cliffs, and the next set the entire -party to work hewing a road along the ice-foot. That -night the temperature fell to –25°F., forming a film -<span class='pageno' id='Page_323'>323</span>of young ice upon the water. The next day I moved -up close to the Cliffs, and then with three Eskimos -reconnoitred the young ice. I found that by proceeding -with extreme care it would in most places support a man.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With experienced Ahsayoo ahead, constantly testing -the ice with his seal spear, myself next, and two -Eskimos following, all with feet wide apart, and -sliding instead of walking, we crept past the cliffs. -Returning we brushed the thin film of newly fallen -snow off the ice with our feet, for a width of some four -feet, to give the cold free access to it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I quote from my diary for the 27th:</p> - -<p class='c008'>“At last we are past the barrier which has been looming -before me for the last ten days—the open water at -the Black Horn Cliffs. Sent two of my men, whose -nerves are disturbed by the prospect ahead, back to -Conger. This leaves me with Henson and three Eskimos. -My supplies can now be carried on the remaining -sledges. Still further stiffened by the continuous -low temperature of the previous night, the main sheet -of new ice in front of the cliffs was not hazardous, as -long as the sledges keep a few hundred feet apart, did -not stop, and their drivers keep some yards away to -one side. Beyond the limit of my previous day’s reconnoissance -there were areas of much younger ice, -which caused me considerable apprehension, as it -buckled to a very disquieting extent beneath dogs and -sledges, and from the motion of the outside pack, was -crushed up in places, while narrow cracks opened up -in others. Finally, to my relief, we reached the ice-foot -beyond the cliffs and camped.”</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_324'>324</span>The next day there was a continuous lane of water, -100 feet wide, along the ice-foot by our camp, and the -space in front of the cliffs was again open water. We -crossed just in time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Up to Cape Stanton we had to hew a continuous road -along the ice-foot. After this the going was much -better to Cape Bryant. Off this section of the coast -the pack was in constant motion, and an almost continuous -lane of water extended along the ice-foot. A -long search at Cape Bryant finally discovered the remains -of Lockwood’s cache and cairn, which had been -scattered by bears. Three marches, mostly in thick -weather, and over alternating hummocky blue ice and -areas of deep snow, brought us at 1 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of May 4th -to Cape North (the northern point of Cape Britannia -Island). From this camp, after a sleep, I sent back -two more Eskimos and the twelve poorest dogs, leaving -Henson, one Eskimo, and myself, with three sledges -and sixteen dogs, for the permanent advance party.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From Cape North a ribbon of young ice on the so-called -tidal crack, which extends along this coast, gave -us a good lift nearly across Nordenskjold Inlet. Then -it became unsafe, and we climbed a heavy rubble barrier -to the old floe ice inside, which we followed to Cape -Benêt, and camped. Here we were treated to another -snowstorm.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Another strip of young ice gave us a passage nearly -across Mascart Inlet, until, under Cape Payer, I found -it so broken up that two of the sledges and nearly all -of the dogs got into the water before we could escape -from it. Then a pocket of snow, thigh and waist deep, -over rubble ice under the lee of the Cape stalled us -<span class='pageno' id='Page_325'>325</span>completely. I pitched the tent, fastened the dogs, -and we devoted the rest of the day to stamping a road -through the snow with our snowshoes. Even then, -when we started the next day I was obliged to put two -teams to one sledge in order to move it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cape Payer was a hard proposition. The first half -of the distance round it we were obliged to cut a road, -and on the latter half, with twelve dogs and three men -to each sledge to push and pull them, snowplow fashion, -through the deep snow.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Distant Cape was almost equally inhospitable, and -it was only after long and careful reconnoissance that -we were able to get our sledges past along the narrow -crest of the huge ridge of ice forced up against the -rocks. After this we had comparatively fair going, -on past Cape Ramsay, Dome Cape, and across Meigs -Fiord, as far as Mary Murray Island. Then came some -heavy going, and at 11:40 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span> of May 8th we -reached Lockwood’s cairn on the north end of Lockwood -Island. From this cairn I took the record -and thermometer deposited there by Lockwood -eighteen years before. The record was in a perfect -state of preservation.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One march from here carried us to Cape Washington. -Just at midnight we reached the low point, which is -visible from Lockwood Island, and great was my -relief, to see on rounding this point, another splendid -headland, with two magnificent glaciers debouching -near it, rising across an intervening inlet. I knew now -that Cape Washington was not the northern point of -Greenland, as I had feared. It would have been a -great disappointment to me, after coming so far, to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_326'>326</span>find that another’s eyes had forestalled mine in looking -first upon the coveted northern point.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Nearly all my hours for sleep at this camp were -taken up by observations and a round of angles. The -ice north from Cape Washington was in a frightful -condition—utterly impracticable. Leaving Cape Washington -we crossed the mouth of the fiord, packed with -blue-top floe-bergs, to the western edge of one of the -big glaciers, and then over the extremity of the glacier -itself, camping near the edge of the second. Here -I found myself in the midst of the birthplace of the -“floe-bergs,” which could be seen in all the various -stages of formation. These “floe-bergs” are merely -degraded icebergs; that is, bergs of low altitude, -detached from the extremity of a glacier, which has -for some distance been forcing its way along a comparatively -level and shallow sea bottom.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From this camp we crossed the second glacier, then -a small fiord, where we killed a polar bear.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was evident to me now that we were very near the -northern extremity of the land; and when we came -within view of the next point ahead I felt that my eyes -rested at last upon the Arctic Ultima Thule (Cape -Morris K. Jesup). The land ahead also impressed me -at once as showing the characteristics of a musk-ox -country.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This point was reached in the next march, and I -stopped to take variation and latitude sights. Here -my Eskimo shot a hare, and we saw a wolf track and -traces of musk-oxen. A careful reconnoissance of the -pack to the northward, with glasses, from an elevation -of a hundred feet, showed the ice to be of a less impracticable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_327'>327</span>character than it was north of Cape Washington. -What were evidently water clouds showed -very distinctly on the horizon. This water sky had -been apparent ever since we left Cape Washington, -and at one time assumed such a shape that I was almost -deceived into taking it for land. Continued careful -observation destroyed the illusion. My observations -completed, we started northward over the pack, and -camped a few miles from land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The two following marches were made in a thick -fog, through which we groped our way northward, -over broken ice and across gigantic, wavelike drifts -of hard snow. One more march in clear weather over -frightful going—consisting of fragments of old floes; -ridges of heavy ice thrown up to heights of twenty-five -to fifty feet; crevasses and holes, masked by snow; -the whole intersected by narrow leads of open water—brought -us at 5 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> on the 16th of May to the northern -edge of a fragment of an old floe bounded by water. -A reconnoissance from the summit of a pinnacle of the -floe, some fifty feet high, showed that we were on the -edge of the disintegrated pack, with a dense water sky -not far distant.</p> - -<p class='c009'>My hours for sleep at this camp were occupied in -observations, and making a transit profile of the northern -coast from Cape Washington eastward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next day I started back for the land, reached it -in one long march and camped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Within a mile of our next camp a herd of fifteen -musk-oxen lay fast asleep; I left them undisturbed. -From here on, for three marches, we made great distances -over good going, in blinding sunshine, and in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_328'>328</span>face of a wind from the east which burned our faces -like a sirocco.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first march took us to a magnificent cape (Cape -Bridgman), at which the northern face of the land -trends away to the southeast. This cape is in the same -latitude as Cape Washington. The next two carried -us down the east coast to the 83d parallel. In -the first of these we crossed the mouth of a large fiord -penetrating for a long distance in a southwesterly -(true) direction. On the next, in a fleeting glimpse -through the fog, I saw a magnificent mountain of -peculiar contour, which I recognised as the peak seen -by me in 1895, from the summit of the interior ice-cap -south of Independence Bay, rising proudly above the -land to the north. This mountain was then named -by me Mt. Wistar. Finally the density of the fog -compelled a halt on the extremity of a low point, composed -entirely of fine glacial drift, and which I judged -to be a small island in the mouth of a large fiord.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From my camp of the previous night I had observed -this island (?) and beyond and over it a massive block -of a mountain, forming the opposite cape of a large -intervening fiord, and beyond that again another -distant cape. Open water was clearly visible a few -miles off the coast, while not far out dark water clouds -reached away to the southeast.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this camp I remained two nights and a day, -waiting for the fog to lift. Then, as there seemed to -be no indication of its doing so, and my provisions were -exhausted, I started on my return journey at 3:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> -on the 22d of May, after erecting a cairn, in which I -deposited the following record:</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c025'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_329'>329</span>COPY OF RECORD IN CAIRN AT CLARENCE WYCKOFF ISLAND</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Arrived here at 10:30 <span class='fss'>P. M.</span>, May 20th, from Etah via Fort Conger, and -north end of Greenland. Left Etah March 4th. Left Conger April 15th. -Arrived north end of Greenland May 13th. Reached point on sea ice -latitude 83° 50′ N., May 16th.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On arrival here had rations for one more march southward. Two days -dense fog have held me here. Am now starting back.</p> - -<p class='c012'>With me are my man Matthew Henson; Ahngmalokto, an Eskimo; -sixteen dogs and three sledges.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This journey has been made under the auspices of and with funds -furnished by the Peary Arctic Club of New York City.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The membership of this Club comprises: Morris K. Jesup, Henry W. -Cannon, Herbert L. Bridgman, John Flagler, E. C. Benedict, James J. -Hill, H. H. Benedict, Fred’k E. Hyde, E. W. Bliss, H. H. Sands, J. M. -Constable, C. F. Wyckoff, E. G. Wyckoff, Chas. P. Daly, Henry Parish, -A. A. Raven, G. B. Schley, E. B. Thomas, and others.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-r c013'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in8'><span class='sc'>R. E. Peary</span>,</div> - <div class='line'><i>Civil Engineer, U. S. N.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c024'>The fog kept company with us on our return almost -continuously until we had passed Lockwood Island, -but as we had a trail to follow, did not delay us as much -as the several inches of heavy snow that fell in a blizzard, -which came from the Polar basin, and imprisoned -us for two days at Cape Bridgman.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At Cape Morris K. Jesup, the northern extremity, -I erected a prominent cairn, in which I deposited the -following record:</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c025'> - <div>COPY OF RECORD IN NORTH CAIRN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-l c013'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>May 13, 1900—5 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Have just reached here from Etah via Ft. Conger. Left Etah March -4th. Left Conger April 15th. Have with me my man Henson, an Eskimo -Ahngmalokto, 16 dogs and three sledges; all in fair condition. Proceed -to-day due north (true) over sea ice. Fine weather. I am doing this -work under the auspices of and with funds furnished by the Peary Arctic -Club of New York City.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The membership of this Club comprises: Morris K. Jesup, Henry W. -Cannon, Herbert L. Bridgman, John H. Flagler, E. C. Benedict, Fred’k -E. Hyde, E. W. Bliss, H. H. Sands, J. M. Constable, C. F. Wyckoff, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_330'>330</span>E. G. Wyckoff, Chas. P. Daly, Henry Parish, A. A. Raven, E. B. -Thomas, and others.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-r c013'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in8'><span class='sc'>R. E. Peary</span>,</div> - <div class='line'><i>Civil Engineer, U. S. N.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-l c013'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>May 17th.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Have returned to this point. Reached 83° 50′ N. Lat. due north -of here. Stopped by extremely rough ice, intersected by water cracks. -Water sky to north. Am now going east along the coast. Fine weather.</p> -<div class='lg-container-l c025'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>May 26th.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Have again returned to this place. Reached point on East Coast -about N. Lat. 83°. Open water all along the coast a few miles off. -No land seen to north or east. Last seven days continuous fogs, wind, -and snow. Is now snowing, with strong westerly wind. Temperature -20° F. Ten musk-oxen killed east of here. Expect start for Conger -to-morrow.</p> - -<p class='c024'>At Cape Washington, also, I placed a copy of Lockwood’s -record, from the cairn at Lockwood Island -with the following indorsement:</p> - -<p class='c029'>This copy of the record left by Lieut. J. B. Lockwood and Sergt. (now -Colonel) D. L. Brainard, U. S. A., in the cairn on Lockwood Island southwest -of here, May 16, 1882, is to-day placed by me in this cairn on the -farthest land seen by them, as a tribute to two brave men, one of whom gave -his life for his Arctic work.</p> - -<p class='c012'>May 29th, 1900.</p> - -<p class='c024'>For a few minutes on one of the marches the fog -lifted, giving us a magnificent panorama of the north -coast mountains. Very sombre and savage they looked, -towering white as marble with the newly fallen snow, -under their low, threatening canopy of lead-coloured -clouds. Two herds of musk-oxen were passed, one of -fifteen and one of eighteen, and two or three stragglers. -Four of these were shot for dog-food, and the skin of -one, killed within less than a mile of the extreme -northern point, has been brought back as a trophy for -the Club.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_331'>331</span>Once free of the fog off Mary Murray Island we made -rapid progress, reaching Cape North in four marches -from Cape Washington. Clear weather showed us the -existence of open water a few miles off the shore, extending -from Dome Cape to Cape Washington. At -Black Cape there was a large open water reaching from -the shore northward. Everywhere along this coast -I was impressed by the startling evidence of the violence -of the blizzard of a few days before. The polar -pack had been driven resistlessly in against the iron -coast, and at every projecting point had risen to the -crest of the ridge of old ice, along the outer edge of the -ice-foot, in a terrific cataract of huge blocks. In -places these mountains of shattered ice were 100 feet -or more in height. The old ice in the bays and fiords -had had its outer edge loaded with a great ridge of ice -fragments, and was itself cracked and crumpled into -huge swells by the resistless pressure. All the young -ice which had helped us on our onward passage had -been crushed into countless fragments and swallowed -up in the general chaos.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Though hampered by fog, the passage from Cape -North to Cape Bryant was made in twenty-five and -one-half marching hours. At 7 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of the 6th -of June we camped on the end of the ice-foot, at the -eastern end of Black Horn Cliffs. A point a few hundred -feet up the bluffs, commanding the region in front -of the cliffs, showed it to be filled by small pieces of -old ice, held in place against the shore by pressure of -the outside pack. It promised at best the heaviest -kind of work, with the certainty that it would run -abroad at the first release of pressure.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_332'>332</span>The next day, when about one-third the way across, -the ice did begin to open out, and it was only after a -rapid and hazardous dash from cake to cake that we -reached an old floe, which, after several hours of heavy -work, allowed us to climb upon the ice-foot of the -western end of the cliffs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From here on rapid progress was made again, three -more marches taking us to Conger, where we arrived -at 1:30 <span class='fss'>A. M.</span>, June 10th, though the open water between -Repulse Harbour and Cape Brevoort, which had now -expanded down Robeson Channel to a point below -Cape Sumner, and the rotten ice under Cape Sumner, -hampered us seriously. In passing I took copies of the -Beaumont English Records from the cairn at Repulse -Harbour, and brought them back for the archives of -the Club. They form one of the finest chapters of the -most splendid courage, fortitude and endurance, under -dire stress of circumstances, that is to be found in the -history of Arctic explorations.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In this journey I had determined, conclusively, the -northern limit of the Greenland Archipelago or land -group, and had practically connected the coast southward -to Independence Bay, leaving only that comparatively -short portion of the periphery of Greenland -lying between Independence Bay and Cape Bismarck -indeterminate. The non-existence of land, for a very -considerable distance to the northward and northeastward, -was also settled, with every indication pointing -to the belief that the coast along which we travelled -formed the shore of an uninterrupted central Polar sea, -extending to the Pole, and beyond to the Spitzbergen and -Franz Joseph Land groups of the opposite hemisphere.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_333'>333</span>The origin of the floe-bergs and paleocrystic ice was -definitely determined. Further than this, the result -of the journey was to eliminate this route as a desirable -or practicable one by which to reach the Pole. The -broken character of the ice, the large amount of open -water, and the comparatively rapid motion of the -ice, as it swung round the northern coast into the -southerly setting East Greenland current, were very -unfavourable features.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During my absence some thirty-three musk-oxen -and ten seals had been secured in the vicinity -of Conger; caches for my return had been established -at Thank God Harbour, Cape Lieber, and -Lincoln Bay, and sugar, milk and tea had been -brought up from the various caches between Conger -and Cape Louis Napoleon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>July was passed by a portion of the party in the -region from Discovery Harbour westward, <i>via</i> Black -Rock Vale and Lake Hazen, where some forty musk-oxen -were secured.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During August and early September various other -hunting trips of shorter duration were made, resulting -in the killing of some twenty musk-oxen.</p> - -<h3 class='c023'>1900–1901</h3> - -<p class='c024'>In the middle of September I started with Henson -and four Eskimos to Lake Hazen, to secure musk-oxen -for our winter supply, it being evident that my ship -would not reach us. Going west as far as the valley -of the Very River, by October 4th, ninety-two musk-oxen -had been killed. Later nine more were secured, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_334'>334</span>making a total of one hundred and one for the autumn -hunting.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the beginning of November to March 6th, the -greater portion of the time was passed by my party -in igloos built in the vicinity of the game killed in -various localities, from Discovery Harbour to Ruggles -River.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 5th I left Conger with Henson, one Eskimo, -two sledges and twelve dogs for my northern trip. At -the same time the remainder of the party, with two -sledges and seven dogs and pups, started south for -Capes D’Urville and Sabine, to communicate with -or obtain tidings of my ship. On reaching -Lincoln Bay it was evident to me that the condition -of men and dogs was such as to negative the possibility -of reaching the Pole, and I reluctantly turned -back.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Arriving at Conger, after an absence of eight days, -I found the remainder of my party there. They had -returned after an absence of four days, having proceeded -one-third of the distance across Lady Franklin -Bay. Fortunately, the night before I arrived, one -of the Eskimos secured several musk-oxen above -St. Patrick’s Bay, which enabled me to feed my dogs -before starting south, which I did with the entire -party on April 17th.</p> - -<p class='c009'>April 30th, at Hayes Point, I met a party from the -<i>Windward</i> attempting to reach Conger, and received -my mail, learning that the <i>Windward</i> was at Payer -Harbour with Mrs. Peary and our little girl on board. -After a rest at the D’Urville box house, I went on to -the <i>Windward</i>, arriving May 6th.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_335'>335</span>After a few days’ rest the work of establishing new -caches along the coast northward, toward Conger, -was commenced and continued until the middle of -June. Then the preparing of Payer Harbour for winter -quarters was carried on till July 3d, when the <i>Windward</i> -broke out of the ice and steamed over to the -Greenland side. July was devoted to killing walrus, -and 128 were secured and transported to Payer -Harbour.</p> - -<p class='c009'>August 4th, the <i>Erik</i>, sent up by the Club, in command -of Secretary H. L. Bridgman, to communicate -with me, arrived at Etah. The usual tour of visits -to the Eskimo settlements was then made, and both -ships pressed into the work of hunting walrus, until -August 24th, when the <i>Windward</i> proceeded southward, -and the <i>Erik</i> steamed away to land me and my party -and the catch of walrus at Payer Harbour.</p> - -<p class='c009'>A large quantity of heavy ice blocking the way to -Payer Harbour, I requested Secretary Bridgman to -land me and my party and walrus meat, in a small -bight, some twelve or fifteen miles south of Cape Sabine, -from whence I could proceed to Payer Harbour in my -boats or sledges when opportunity offered. This was -done, and on the 29th of August the <i>Erik</i> steamed -away.</p> - -<h3 class='c023'>1901–1902</h3> - -<p class='c024'>On the 16th of September I succeeded in reaching -Payer Harbour, crossing Ross Bay, partly by sledge -and partly by boat, and going overland across Bedford -Pim Island.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_336'>336</span>Soon after this my Eskimos began to sicken, and by -November 19th six of them were dead. During this -time I personally sledged much of the material from -Erik Harbour to headquarters, and Henson went to the -head of Buchanan Bay with some of the Eskimos, and -secured ten musk-oxen.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The winter passed quietly and comfortably. Two -more musk-oxen were secured in Buchanan Bay, and -six deer at Etah.</p> - -<p class='c009'>January 2d, work was begun in earnest on preparations -for the spring campaign, which opened on the -11th of February. On this day I sent off six sledges, -with light loads, to select a road across the mouth of -Buchanan Bay, and build an igloo abreast of Cape -Albert. On the 12th I sent two of my best hunters -on a flying reconnoissance and bear hunt, in the direction -of Cape Louis Napoleon.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 13th eight sledges went out, taking dog-food -nearly to Cape D’Urville. On the 16th my two scouts -returned with a favourable report, and on the 18th -ten sledges went out loaded with dog-food to be taken -to Cape Louis Napoleon. This party returned on the -22d. On the evening of the 28th, everything was in -readiness for Henson to start the next day, it being -my intention to send him on ahead with three picked -men and light loads to pioneer the way to Conger; I -to follow a few days later with the main party. A -northerly gale delayed his departure until the morning -of March 3d, when he got away with six sledges and -some fifty dogs. Two of these sledges were to act as a -supporting party as far as Cape Lawrence. At 9 -<span class='fss'>A. M.</span> of March 6th fourteen sledges trailed out of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_337'>337</span>Payer Harbour and rounded Cape Sabine for the northern -journey, and at noon I followed them, with my big -sledge, the “Long Serpent,” drawn by ten fine grays. -Two more sledges accompanied me. The temperature -at the time was –20° F. The minimum of the previous -night had been –38° F. We joined the others at the -igloos abreast of Cape Albert and camped there for the -night. Temperature –43° F. The next day we made -Cape D’Urville in temperature from –45° to –49°F.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Here I stopped a day to dry our foot-gear thoroughly, -and left on the morning of the 9th with some -supplies from the box house. Two sledges returned -from here. Camped about five miles from Cape Louis -Napoleon. The next march carried me to Cape Fraser, -and the next to Cape Collinson. During this march, -for the first time in the four seasons that I have been -over this route, I was able to take a nearly direct -course across the mouth of Scoresby Bay, instead of -making a long detour into it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One march from Cape Collinson carried me to Cape -Lawrence, on the north side of Rawlings Bay. The -crossing of this bay, though more direct than usual, -was over extremely rough ice. Learning from Henson’s -letter at Cape Lawrence, that I had gained a day on -him, and not wanting to overtake him before reaching -Conger, I remained here a day, repairing several -sledges which had been damaged in the last march. -Five men with the worst sledges and poorest dogs -returned from here. Three more marches took us to -Cape L. von Buch on the north side of Carl Ritter Bay, -temperature ranging from –35° to –45° F. Heavy -going in many places.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_338'>338</span>Two more marches carried us to the first coast valley -north of Cape Defosse. I had now gained two days on -the advance party. The character of the channel ice -being such that we were able to avoid the terrible -ice-foot, which extends from here to Cape Lieber, and -my dogs being still in good condition, I made a spurt -from here and covered the distance to Conger in one -march, arriving about an hour and a half after Henson -and his party.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I had covered the distance from Payer Harbour to -Conger, some 300 miles, in twelve marches.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Four days were spent at Conger overhauling sledges -and harness, drying and repairing clothing, and scouting -the country, as far as The Bellows, in search of musk-oxen. -None were seen, but about 100 hare were -secured in the four days. Temperature during this -time from –40° to –57° F. Seven Eskimos returned -from here, taking with them the instruments of the -Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, and other items of -Government property abandoned here in 1883.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the morning of the 24th I started north with nine -sledges. We camped the first night at “Depot B.” -The next march I had counted on making Lincoln -Bay, but just before reaching Wrangel Bay a sudden -furious gale with blinding drift drove us into camp at -the south point of the bay. Here we were storm-bound -during the 26th, but got away on the morning -of the 27th and pushed on to Cape Union, encountering -along this portion of the coast the steep side slopes of -hard snow, which are so trying to men and sledges -and dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Open water, the clouds over which we saw from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span>Wrangel Bay Camp, was about 100 yards beyond our -igloo, and extended from there, as I judged, northward -beyond Cape Rawson, and reached entirely across the -channel to the Greenland coast at Cape Brevoort, as -in 1900.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Fortunately, with the exercise of utmost care, and -with a few narrow escapes, and incessant hard work, -we were able to work our sledges along the narrow and -dangerous ice-foot to and around Black Cape.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice-foot along this section of the coast was the -same as was found here by Egerton and Rawson in -1876, and Pavy in 1882, necessitating the hewing of an -almost continuous road; but a party of willing, lighthearted -Eskimos makes comparatively easy work of -what would be a slow and heart-breaking job for two -or three white men. Beyond Black Cape the ice-foot -improved in character, and I pushed along to camp at -the <i>Alert’s</i> winter quarters. Simultaneously with -seeing the <i>Alert’s</i> cairn three musk-oxen were seen a -short distance inland, and secured. The animals were -very thin and furnished but a scant meal for my -dogs.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One march from here carried us to Cape Richardson, -and the next under the lee of View Point, where we -were stopped and driven to build our igloo with all -possible speed by one of the common Arctic gales. -There were young ice, pools of water, and a nearly continuous -water sky all along the shore.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As the last march had been through deep snow, I -did not dare to attempt the English short cut across -Fielden Peninsula behind Cape Joseph Henry, preferring -to take the ice-foot route round it.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>For a short distance this was the worst bit of ice-foot -I have ever encountered. By the slipping of my -sledge two men nearly lost their lives, saving themselves -by the merest chance, with their feet already -dangling over the crest of a vertical face of ice some -fifty feet in height. At the very extremity of the cape -we were forced to pass our sledges along a shelf of ice, -less than three feet in width, glued against the face of -the cliff at an elevation which I estimated at the time -as seventy-five feet above the ragged surface of the -floe beneath. On the western side of the cape the ice-foot -broadened and became nearly level, but was smothered -in such a depth of light snow that it stalled us and -we went into camp. The next day we made Crozier -Island.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During April 2d and 3d we were held here by a -westerly storm, and the 4th and 5th were devoted to -hunting musk-oxen, of which three were secured, two -of them being very small. From here I sent back three -Eskimos, keeping Henson and four Eskimos with me.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Reconnoissances of the polar pack northward were -made with the glasses from the summit of the island -and from Cape Hecla.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The pack was very rough, but apparently not as bad -as that which I saw north of Cape Washington two -years before. Though unquestionably difficult, it -yet looked as though we might make some progress -through it unless the snow was too deep and soft. -This was a detail which the glasses could not -determine.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the morning of April 6th I left Crozier Island, and -a few hours later, at the point of Cape Hecla, we swung -<span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>our sledges sharply to the right and climbed over and -down the parapet of the ice-foot on to the polar pack. -As the sledges plunged down from the ice-foot their -noses were buried out of sight, the dogs wallowed belly -deep in the snow, and we began our struggle due northward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We had been in the field now just a month. We -had covered not less than 400 miles of the most arduous -travelling in temperatures of from –35° to –57° F., and -we were just beginning our work, <i>i. e.</i>, the conquest of -the polar pack, the toughest undertaking in the whole -expanse of the Arctic region.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Some two miles from the cape was a belt of very -recent young ice, running parallel with the general -trend of the coast. Areas of rough ice caught in this -compelled us to exaggerated zigzags, and doubling on -our track. It was easier to go a mile round, on the -young ice, than to force the sledge across one of these -islands.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The northern edge of the new ice was a high wall of -heavily rubbled old ice, through which, after some -reconnoissance, we found a passage to an old floe, where -I gave the order to build an igloo. We were now about -five miles from the land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The morning of the 7th brought us fine weather. -Crossing the old floe we came upon a zone of old floe -fragments deeply blanketed with snow. Through the -irregularities of this we struggled; the dogs floundering, -almost useless, occasionally one disappearing for -a moment; now treading down the snow round a -sledge to dig it out of a hole into which it had sunk, -now lifting the sledges bodily over a barrier of blocks; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>veering right and left; doubling in our track; road-making -with snowshoe and pickaxe.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Late in the day a narrow ditch gave us a lift for a -short distance, then one or two little patches of level -going, then two or three small old floes which, though -deep with snow, seemed like a Godsend compared with -the wrenching earlier work. We camped in the lee -of a large hummock on the northern edge of a small -but very heavy old floe, everyone thoroughly tired, -and the dogs dropping motionless in the snow as soon -as the whip stopped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We were now due north to Hecla, and I estimated -we had made some six miles, perhaps seven, perhaps -only five. A day of work like this makes it difficult -to estimate distances. This is a fair sample of our -day’s work.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 12th we were storm-bound by a gale from the -west, which hid even those dogs fastened nearest to -the igloo. During our stay here the old floes on which -we were camped split in two with a loud report, and -the ice cracked and rumbled and roared at frequent -intervals.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the first march beyond this igloo we were deflected -westward by a lead of practically open water, the thin -film of young ice covering it being unsafe even for a -dog. A little further on a wide canal of open water -deflected us constantly to the northwest and then -west until an area of extremely rough ice prevented us -from following it farther. Viewed from the top of a -high pinnacle this area extended west and northwest -on both sides of the canal, as far as could be seen. -I could only camp and wait for this canal, which evidently -<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>had been widened (though not newly formed) -by the storm of the day before, to close up or freeze -over. During our first sleep at this camp there was a -slight motion of the lead, but not enough to make it -practicable. From here I sent back two more Eskimos.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Late in the afternoon of the 14th the lead began to -close, and hastily packing the sledges we hurried them -across over moving fragments of ice. We now found -ourselves in a zone of high parallel ridges of rubble ice -covered with deep snow. These ridges were caused -by successive opening and closing of the lead. When, -after some time, we found a practicable pass through -this barrier, we emerged upon a series of very small -but extremely heavy and rugged old floes; the snow -on them still deeper and softer than on the southern -side of the lead. At the end of a sixteen-hour day I -called a halt, though we were only two or three miles -north of the big lead.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During the first portion of the next march we passed -over fragments of very heavy old floes slowly moving -eastward. Frequently we were obliged to wait for the -pieces to crush close enough together to let us pass -from one to the other. Farther on I was compelled -to bear away due east by an impracticable area extending -west, northwest, north and northeast as far as could -be seen, and just as we had rounded this and were -bearing away to the north again, we were brought up -by a lead some fifty feet wide. From this on, one day -was much like another, sometimes doing a little better -sometimes a little worse, but the daily advance, in spite -of our best efforts, steadily decreasing. Fog and -stormy weather also helped to delay us.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>I quote from my Journal:</p> - -<p class='c008'><i>April 21st.</i>—The game is off. My dream of sixteen -years is ended. It cleared during the night and we got -under way this morning, deep snow. Two small old -floes. Then came another region of old rubble and -deep snow. A survey from the top of a pinnacle showed -this extending north, east and west, as far as could be -seen. The two old floes, over which we had just come, -are the only ones in sight. It is impracticable and I -gave the order to camp. I have made the best fight, -I knew. I believe it has been a good one. But I -cannot accomplish the impossible.</p> - -<p class='c008'>A few hours after we halted there came from the ice -to the north a sound like that made by a heavy surf, -and it continued during our stay at this camp. Evidently -the floes in that direction were crushing together -under the influence of the wind, or what was, perhaps, -more probable, from the long continuation of the noise, -the entire pack was in slow motion to the east. A -clear day enabled me to get observations which showed -my latitude to be 84° 17′ 27″ N., magnetic variation, -99° west. I took some photographs of the -camp, climbed and floundered through the broken -fragments and waist-deep snow for a few hundred -yards north of the camp, gave the dogs a double ration, -then turned in to sleep, if possible, for a few hours -preparatory to returning.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We started on our return soon after midnight of the -21st. It was very thick, with wind from the west and -snowing heavily. I hurried our departure in order to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>utilise as much of our tracks as possible before they were -obliterated. It was very difficult to keep the trail -in the uncertain light and driving snow. We lost it -repeatedly, when we would be obliged to quarter the -surface like bird dogs. On reaching the last lead of -the upward march, instead of the open water which -had interrupted our progress then, our tracks now -disappeared under a huge pressure ridge, which I -estimated to be from seventy-five to one hundred feet -high. Our trail was faulted here by the movement of -the floes, and we lost time in picking it up on the other -side.</p> - -<p class='c009'>This was to me a trying march. I had had no -sleep the night before, and to the physical strain of -handling my sledge was added the mental tax of trying -to keep the trail. When we finally camped, it was -only for a few hours, for I recognised that the entire -pack was moving slowly, and that our trail was everywhere -being faulted and interrupted by new pressure -ridges and leads, in a way to make our return march -nearly, if not quite, as slow and laborious as the outward -one. The following marches were much the -same. In crossing one lead I narrowly escaped losing -two sledges and the dogs attached to them. Arrived -at the “Grand Canal,” as I called the big lead -at which I had sent two Eskimos back, the changes -had been such as to make the place almost unrecognisable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two marches south of the Grand Canal the changes -in the ice had been such, between the time of our upward -trip and the return of my two men from the canal, -that they, experienced as they were in all that pertains -<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>to ice-craft, had been hopelessly bewildered and wandered -apparently, for at least a day, without finding -the trail. After their passage other changes had taken -place, and, as a result, I set a compass course for the -land, and began making a new road. In the next -march we picked up our old trail again.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Early in the morning of the 22d, we reached the -second igloo out from Cape Hecla, and camped in a -driving snowstorm. At this igloo we were storm-bound -during the 27th and 28th, getting away on the -29th in the densest fog, and bent on butting our way -in a “bee” line compass course, for the land. Floundering -through the deep snow and ice, saved from unpleasant -falls only by the forewarning of the dogs, we -reached Crozier Island after a long and weary march. -The band of young ice along the shore had disappeared, -crushed up into confused ridges and mounds of irregular -blocks.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The floe at the island camp had split in two, the -crack passing through our igloo, the halves of which -stared at each other across the chasm. This march -finished two of my dogs, and three or four more were -apparently on their last legs. We did not know how -tired we were until we reached the island. The warm -foggy weather and the last march together dropped our -physical barometer several degrees.</p> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_347.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>SIDE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_347b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>FRONT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>HEAD OF RANGIFER PEARYI, ALLEN. Killed near Cape Joseph Henry, <i>October, 1905</i></div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span></div> -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_348.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AHNGMALOKTO</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_348b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>PEWAHTO</p> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='section'> - -<div class='figleft id005'> -<img src='images/i_348c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AHNGODOBLAHO</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id005'> -<img src='images/i_348d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>PANIKPAH</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>ESKIMOS OF THE “FARTHEST NORTH” PARTY</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>As we now had light sledges, I risked the short cut -across the base of Fielden Peninsula and camped that -night under the lee of View Point. Four more marches -carried us to Conger, where we remained three days, -drying clothing and repairing sledges, and giving the -dogs a much needed rest. Leaving Conger on the 6th -of May, eleven marches brought us back to Payer -Harbour on the 17th of May. A few days after this -I went north to complete the survey of the inner portions -of Dobbin Bay, being absent from headquarters -some ten days. Open water vetoing a trip which I -had planned for June up Buchanan Bay and across to -the west coast of Ellesmere Land, the remainder of -the time was devoted to assiduous hunting, in order to -secure a supply of meat for the winter, in the contingency -of no ship arriving.</p> - -<p class='c009'>On the 5th of August the new <i>Windward</i>, sent north -by the Club, and bringing to me Mrs. Peary and my -little girl, steamed into the harbour. As soon as -people and supplies could be hurried aboard her, she -steamed across the Sound to the Greenland side. -Here my faithful Eskimos were landed, and, after -devoting a week or so to the work of securing sufficient -walrus to carry them in comfort through the winter, -the <i>Windward</i> steamed southward, and, after an uneventful -voyage, arrived at Sydney, C. B., on the 17th -of September, where I had the pleasure of meeting -Secretary Bridgman, of the Club, and forwarding -through him a brief report of my movements during -the past year.</p> - -<h3 class='c023'><span class='sc'>A New Caribou from Ellesmere Land</span><a id='r4'></a><a href='#f4' class='c019'><sup>[4]</sup></a></h3> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>BY J. A. ALLEN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f4'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. <i>Bulletin</i> Am. Museum of Nat. History, Vol. xvi, Article xxxii.</p> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The valuable natural history material brought by the -Arctic explorer, Commander R. E. Peary, U. S. N., -to the American Museum of Natural History on his -<span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>return from his recent long sojourn in the high North -contains five specimens of Caribou taken in Ellesmere -Land, Lat. 79°, in June, 1902. They comprise four -flat skins of adults without skulls, and more or less -defective, and the complete skin of a young fawn. In -colouration they are strikingly different from any other -known Caribou, being pure white except for a large dark -patch on the middle and posterior part of the back.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c011'> - <div>ELLESMERE LAND CARIBOU</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c013'> - <div><i>Rangifer Pearyi</i>, sp. nov.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Type, No. 19231 ♂ ad., Ellesmere Land, N. Lat. 79°, June 15, 1902, -Commander Robert E. Peary, U. S. N.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Entire animal pure white except an oval grayish brown patch over -the posterior half of the dorsal surface, gradually fading into white toward -the shoulders, the hair being white to the base, or of a pale shade of lilac -below the surface, where the surface colour is white. The dorsal patch -occupies an area of about 670 mm. in length by 350 mm. in width, and is -drab-gray, divided by a very narrow median line of white. The legs and -feet are wholly white; the ears are slightly tinged with gray, the hair -beneath the surface being plumbeous and showing slightly at the surface. -The antlers are just budding, being represented by small protuberances, -about an inch and a half in length, covered with short hair. Total length -of flat skin, 1660 mm. Corresponding measurement of flat skins of the -dark form of Caribou from Greenland, 1820 mm.</p> - -<p class='c030'>A female (No. 19232) is similar, except that the dark dorsal area extends -a little further forward at the shoulders, and is a little darker. As -in the male, the patch fades out to whitish toward the shoulders. Length -of the flat skin, 1560 mm.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Two other females are similarly marked, but the dorsal patch in both -is much darker, approaching dark slate gray. The region around the -base of the antlers and ears is clouded with grayish, as are the edges of -the ears; the front surface of the forelegs is dark grayish brown, and of -the hind legs faint buffy grayish brown, increasing in amount and intensity -apically from the tarsal joint to the hoofs. These skins measure -respectively 1610 and 1570 mm. in total length. In one the antlers form -knobs an inch or two in height, covered with short hair.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A fawn (No. 19235), a few weeks old, is grayish white on the head, -ears, neck, limbs, ventral surface and sides of the body, the hairs being -<span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>dusky basally and broadly tipped with white, the dusky basal portion -showing through the white enough to give a general dingy effect. The -top of the nose and a narrow band bordering the nostrils are blackish, -passing posteriorly on the upper part of the rostrum into brownish dusky; -a broad central band from the nose nearly to the ears is darker or more -dingy than the sides of the face; a rusty brownish spot marks the point -where the antlers are to appear, and there is a faint rusty wash on the sides -of the face both before and behind the rusty antler spots. The back is -marked by a strongly defined, very narrow, ferruginous line, running -from the nape to the base of the tail, which, over the middle of the back, -broadens a little and darkens to deep dusky ferruginous; the whole dorsal -area, from a little behind the shoulders to the rump, is pale fawn colour, -darkest medially and fading out on the sides to pale buffy white. This -coloured area corresponds in position and outline with the dark dorsal -patch of the adults. A narrow, ill-defined, dusky chestnut-brown band -borders the hoofs of all the feet, but is rather broader and more distinct -on the hind feet than on the fore feet. The tail is wholly white to the base, -as in the adults.</p> - -<p class='c024'>The adult specimens, though killed in June, are in -winter coat, the hair being long, thick, and very soft, -much softer and finer than in the Greenland Caribou, -and the skins are also much thinner and softer. The -skin of the fawn was preserved in brine, which may -have slightly intensified or darkened the buffy shades -of the dorsal surface.</p> - -<p class='c009'><i>Rangifer Pearyi</i> is evidently a very distinct insular -form, very different from <i>R. Grœnlandicus</i> in colouration -and doubtless in other features. Unfortunately -only flat skins are available for examination. Specimens -of <i>R. Grœnlandicus</i> in corresponding pelage are -dark slaty brown above, this colour fading gradually -on the sides to the white of the ventral surface, the -Greenland Caribou being very much darker in its winter -pelage than the Newfoundland Caribou, which -heretofore has been the whitest known form of the -group.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>I am indebted to Commander Peary for the following -information regarding the occurrence of Caribou in -Ellesmere Land. In a letter dated Philadelphia, -October 13, 1902, he says: “In answer to your inquiries -I will say that remains and traces of reindeer -have been noted by previous explorers at the following -points in Ellesmere Land and Grinnell Land: Alexandra -Haven, Ellesmere Land; Rawlings Bay, Grinnell -Land, and in the Fort Conger region, Grinnell Land; -and an antler was picked up by a member of my party -in the summer of 1901 at Erik Harbour, some twelve -miles south of Cape Sabine. The published reports -of Sverdrup’s expedition state that he found reindeer -in abundance on the west side of Ellesmere Land.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“I have seen many winter coats of the Greenland -Caribou and they are pronouncedly darker than the -Ellesmere specimens.”</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVI<br /> <span class='large'>THE ARCTIC S. S. “ROOSEVELT”</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>In July, 1904, in one of the charming villas overlooking -the city of Bar Harbor a meeting took -place, small as to numbers but weighty with importance -in the affairs of the Peary Arctic Club, for at that -meeting was taken the formal step which meant the -building of the <i>Roosevelt</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Four men were present at the meeting: Morris K. -Jesup, Lewis L. Delafield his counsel, Captain Charles -B. Dix, and myself.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Mr. Jesup had stated some time previous, that if -subscriptions to the Peary Arctic Club could be secured -to the amount of $50,000, including his own generous -check for not less than half that sum, he would assume -responsibility for the construction of the ship and -guarantee the contract, thus insuring the construction -of the ship in time to go North in 1905, and giving -nearly a year additional time in which to secure the -additional funds necessary.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Up to this time the interest had not been particularly -widespread. The amount of subscriptions was still -short of $50,000, but time was pressing and the material -must be ordered at once in order to give even a -reasonable chance of completing the ship in time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Personally I felt no doubt but what the total amount -of money could be raised, and yet it must be admitted -<span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>that the prospects were none too favourable and discussion -did not seem to appreciably clear the situation.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Mr. Jesup was as deeply interested as I, and was not -only willing but anxious to do everything in his power -to put the matter through, but he hesitated at assuming -too much responsibility because, as he frankly told -me, he did not feel, much as he wished to, that he could -properly assume the entire burden of the expedition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Finally Captain Dix said that he would order the -timber for the building of the <i>Roosevelt</i> on his own -responsibility; that he believed the money would be -raised, and that if it were not, he would assume whatever -loss might result from his action. His -statement was like a ray of sunlight both to Mr. Jesup -and myself, for it brought out clearly the fact that -there was something in the project which appealed -irresistibly to business men of big ideas.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The next scene which I recall most distinctly was in -another beautiful villa in Vermont, commanding miles -and miles of beautiful country and with a regal mountain -and forest domain back of it. It was just before -the 1st of August, the date on which the $50,000 must -be subscribed to insure the signing of the contract for -the construction of the ship. The total still fell several -thousands short of that amount. Mr. Colgate had -already promised a generous check with an intimation -that he might increase it if it were necessary.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At this meeting there were but three: Mr. Colgate, -Judge Darling, Assistant Secretary of the Navy, and -myself. The situation was presented to Mr. Colgate, -and with characteristic promptitude and generosity -his check was increased by an amount that rounded -out the $50,000 and so the building of the <i>Roosevelt</i> -became a certainty.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span> -<img src='images/i_357.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>CAPTAIN CHAS. B. DIX. BUILDER OF THE “ROOSEVELT”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_357b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE “ROOSEVELT” ON HER TRIAL TRIP, JUNE, 1905</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span> -<img src='images/i_358.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE PEARY ARCTIC CLUB’S S. S. “ROOSEVELT”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>In approaching the general question of a ship for -Arctic or Antarctic ice navigation, one thing is immediately -apparent to anyone at all conversant with the -matter, <i>i. e.</i>, that she should be as small as is consistent -with carrying the party, supplies, equipment, -and coal for the work planned.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The reasons for this are evident. The smaller a ship -is, the stronger she is, and the more easily handled.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In looking for facts to show the results of past experience -in this field, it is at once discovered that -practically all ice boats past and present have been -built by the three countries, Scotland, the United -States, and Norway, for the prosecution of the whale -and seal fisheries.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In this work the Norwegians have operated in the -seas about Spitzbergen, Jan Mayen, East Greenland, -and Nova Zembla; the United States in Hudson Bay -and Bering Sea; and the Scotch principally in the -chain of waters comprising Davis Strait, Baffin Bay, -Lancaster Sound and their tributaries, with a few -voyages to East Greenland and Hudson Bay.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice conditions encountered by the Norwegians -and Americans may be very broadly stated as floes and -broken ice drifting in an open sea, through which the -ships have to thread their way.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The ice conditions encountered by the Scotch -whalers, are a nearly solid expanse of one season’s ice -in Melville Bay, and when that is passed, heavy ice -in narrow land-locked channels, notorious for their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>strong currents, the direction of which is opposed to -the course of the whalers.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It has been said by one writer that the American -whalers use their steam to keep out of the ice, while -the Scotch use theirs to get into and through it.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Comparing existing ships of the Scotch, Norwegian, -and United States whaling fleets, it is found that the -following average proportions of beam to length exist:</p> - -<table class='table1'> - <tr> - <td class='c015'>Scotch,</td> - <td class='c031'>1:5.75</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'>Norwegian,</td> - <td class='c031'>1:4.7</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c015'>American,</td> - <td class='c031'>1:4.5</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c009'>It is seen at once that the Norwegians and Americans -have not departed from the old-fashioned sailing ship -model. (The average ratio in our modern Bath-built -schooners is 1:4.78.)</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Scotchmen have a finer model, and since this -model is a practical evolution by shrewd seamen and -builders from an experience of over one hundred and -twenty-five years, in a business where large financial -returns were the lot of the best ship; and the seas where -that experience was secured and for which that evolution -was designed, are the seas to be navigated by -the proposed ship, it seemed clear that the Scotch -model was the one on which to base our studies.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The problem of size did not present itself in the -present instance in quite the form that it did to Nansen, -and the English and German Antarctic Expeditions. -In these instances the size of the party and the length -of time it was to be absent being determined upon, and -the coal consumption of the engines fixed, it was easy -to calculate the cargo to be carried which, plus the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>dead weight of the ship and machinery, gave at once -the displacement needed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the present case it was regarded as practicable -to determine in advance upon a size and proportion -of ship which should most nearly balance and meet -the various requirements, and let the difference between -her displacement, and her own dead weight, go for -cargo capacity, of which the greater portion would -be coal.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The size fixed upon was 184 feet over all by 35 feet -beam by 16 feet draft, loaded. (Load water-line 166 -feet.) This gives a ship of nearly the same length, -but a little greater beam than the English Antarctic -ship, <i>Discovery</i>. Her length ratio would be 1:5.26, -not quite as fine as the Scotch average, but much finer -than the Norwegian or American models.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Such a ship is in the same class as the <i>Terra Nova</i>, -<i>Bear</i>, <i>Thetis</i>, and <i>Neptune</i> of existing whalers, the -<i>Proteus</i> (lost), and the exploring ship <i>Discovery</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Length and beam having been determined, the form -of hull was next to be considered. In the navigation -of the particular regions contemplated by the Expedition, -a light draft is preferable to a heavier one, -as enabling the ship to go closer to the shore, and thus -get round a barrier, or retreat close in shore from advancing -heavy ice, and let it ground outside of the -ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The element of light draft also enters into the consideration -of the lifting of the ship under heavy pressure -from ice-floes. The deeper a ship is in the water, the -more difficult will it be for her to rise and save herself.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It has been well said that while a form of hull that -<span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>would allow a ship to rise easily and readily under ice -pressure is desirable, and this desirability has been -recognised, no ship previous to the <i>Fram</i> had been built -to meet that requirement.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the <i>Fram</i> almost everything else was sacrificed to -this requirement. Seaworthiness was sacrificed, and -as the <i>Fram’s</i> experience in her two voyages shows, -ability to make her way through ice was sacrificed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>For the purpose for which she was designed, <i>i. e.</i>, to -enter the ice and then drift with it, evading destruction -from ice pressure, she was well adapted, but as the -designers of the German Antarctic ship <i>Gauss</i> said in -discussing the <i>Fram</i> model, she would have been even -better adapted for this had she been bowl-shaped.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Contrary to popular ideas, the work which an Arctic -ship has to do is not principally that of breaking up -one season’s ice, as is done by harbour and river icebreakers, -in Canadian and Russian waters for instance. -Such conditions of level, unbroken ice of uniform thickness -are found only in Melville Bay on the upward -voyage, where the one season ice is encountered, and -late in the season when the new ice is beginning to -form. The main work of the Arctic ship is that of -threading and pushing and wedging and prying her -way among and between and around fragments and -cakes and large floes of ice, the latter of such thickness -(twenty to fifty or seventy feet) that nothing could -break a passage through them. Of course, nothing -can be done but squeeze a way around these. It is for -this reason that the powerful Russian <i>Ermack</i> is not -available for a Polar voyage, and why she is not treated -of in this discussion. Fifty <i>Ermacks</i> merged in one could -<span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>not break through these floes, and in squeezing around -them the <i>Ermack</i> could not carry enough coal to take -her half-way to the Pole.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To return to the hull model. In the <i>Fram</i> everything -was sacrificed to secure certainty of lifting under -pressure. In the <i>Gauss</i>, which is a modified <i>Fram</i>, -while the broad beam of the <i>Fram</i> (thirty-six feet) -was retained, greater length was given the ship to -render her a better sea boat for the long voyage from -Germany to the Antarctic Circle. Her ratio is 1 to 4.25 -as compared with the <i>Fram’s</i> 1 to 3.25. The <i>Gauss’s</i> -draft, however, is excessive (nineteen feet).</p> - -<p class='c009'>As already noted, great draft is a disadvantage in -the region under consideration, and every increase -in beam makes impassable leads which otherwise -would be available, and greatly increases the power -required and the difficulties of pushing a way through -loose ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The English <i>Discovery</i> was built, as was to be expected, -on the lines of the Scotch whalers, with a little -broader beam. Her ratio is 1 to 5.27. Her draft is -a little less than that of the whalers. She was not -specially modelled to rise under pressure, but was -specially constructed (as the <i>Fram</i> and <i>Gauss</i> were -not) for ramming a way through opposing ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The model selected for the <i>Roosevelt</i> was intended -to meet the requirements of lifting under pressure, -of being short enough to handle easily, and of being -able to ram a passage through heavy ice effectively and -continuously.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Detailed features of these requirements are as follows:</p> - -<p class='c009'>For lifting under pressure, steel-sheathed sides, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>sloping bilges, flat floor to prevent heeling when lifted, -flush stem and keel, raking stem, raking stern (this a -new feature). For forcing a way through loose ice: -sharp wedge bow, and full counter to keep ice from -propeller. For ramming ice: a sharply raking stem, -steel-sheathed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From this general description, it will be understood -that while the hull model contained the best features -of preceding ships, it was not a departure from -ordinary models, like the <i>Fram</i> and <i>Gauss</i>, but rather -a modification of them to meet special requirements.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the question of power was approached, there -was a radical departure, in fact a complete reversal of -previous practice in Arctic ships, and the adoption of -ordinary commercial practice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Hitherto Arctic ships have had full sail power (full-rigged -bark being the favourite rig) and auxiliary -engines, often of surprisingly puny power. The object -of this has been economy of coal, and the consequent -ability of the ship to cover long distances at slow speed, -and remain away from home for a period of years.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>Roosevelt</i> is a powerful steamer, with all the -engine force she could contain, and with only moderate -sail area. There is no question in my mind but that -this is the correct principle upon which to build a -modern Arctic ship for effective results.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Smith Sound or “American” route is especially -advantageous for this method, presenting a coasting -voyage, facilities for placing coal depots, the key of -the route condensed in a few hundred miles of heavy -ice navigation, and the possibility of even obtaining -coal <i>in situ</i> along the route.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>The <i>Roosevelt</i> had engines capable of developing -one thousand horse-power. They were of the inverted, -compound type, driving a single eleven-foot propeller, -and steam was supplied by two water-tube boilers and -one Scotch boiler. Her sail plan is a light, American, -three-masted schooner rig, possessing the advantage -of light weight (it is to be remembered that every pound -of weight saved in rigging or fitting means a pound of -coal in the hold), and small surface to be forced through -a head wind; yet sufficient to materially help the -engines in a favouring wind, and to enable the ship -to make her way home should her coal be exhausted.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As to construction: The strength of the hull must -be such that it will resist the terrific pressure of the -ice-floes, and keep its shape intact until the lifting of -the ship bodily releases the pressure; such that if supported -at each end only, or in the middle only, or -thrown up on the ice and resting upon her bilge, during -the paroxysms of the floes, she will not be strained -or injured; and such that she can ram the ice by the -hour when necessary, without injury to seams or -fastenings.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is a popular fallacy that steel is a suitable material -for the construction of an Arctic ship. A steel ship, -though structurally strong, is peculiarly vulnerable -locally to the ragged, rock-like tongues and corners of -heavy Arctic ice.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The elasticity, toughness and resiliency of thick -wooden sides are essential in an Arctic ship; but the -wood planking may be steel-sheathed on the outside -to enable the ship more easily to slip from the grip -of the ice, and the methods of composite ship building -<span class='pageno' id='Page_366'>366</span>may be utilised in the interior of the vessel, to reduce -weight, while at the same time increasing its structural -strength, and not lessening the strength and rigidity -of the interior bracing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the interests of strength, the frames of the <i>Roosevelt</i> -were made treble, keel, keelson, stem and stern-post -exceptionally strong; the planking is double; -the deck beams, and especially the ’tween-deck beams, -which are to be just below the water-line, are extra -heavy, and spaced more closely than usual. Additional -struts from the bilges, and strong posts from -the keelson, longitudinal tie plates at the waterways -and on the upper-deck beams, and transverse bulkheads, -add still further to her great strength.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the interest of lightness there is no ’tween-deck -planking, no interior fittings; and the spars and rigging -are made as light as possible.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The keel, false keel and keelsons are of oak, and -form a rigid backbone to the ship six feet in height. -The stem and rudder and propeller posts also are of -massive oak timbers, the former having a depth on the -ship’s axis of seven to ten feet, to take the blows when -ramming ice. The frames also are of oak, placed -almost close together, and each composed of three -thicknesses of timber bolted together to give great -strength. The planking is double, yellow pine inside -and oak outside.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The sides of the ship are from twenty-four to thirty -inches thick.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_367'>367</span> -<img src='images/i_367.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>A STUDY IN BRONZE<br /><br />Typical face of Eskimo woman</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_368'>368</span> -<img src='images/i_368.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AHWEAHGOODLOO<br /><br />Four-year-old Eskimo girl dressed in blue fox kapetah and sealskin kamiks</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_369'>369</span>To keep even these heavy sides from being crushed -in, they were reinforced by heavy deck beams placed -unusually close together, and a lower tier of heavy -beams just below the water-line forming with steel -rods and inclined posts and struts to the ship’s sides -and bilges, a strong truss at an interval of every four -feet in the length of the ship.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The housing of the personnel of the expedition in -light structures on deck, which personal experience -has shown to be much the simpler and better plan -than below decks, permits a stronger and more effective -arrangement of these trusses than has been attained -in previous ships. The interior of the bow, -which is to the ship what the <i>cestus</i> was to the ancient -gladiator, is filled in solid with timbers and iron.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The stern also, as well as the stem, is iron-plated, -and the rudder post, which is the Achilles’s heel of an -Arctic ship, is of unusually strong construction. The -rudder is so arranged that it can be hoisted on deck -out of the way of the ice if necessary. The propeller -is so arranged that it can be used either as a two-bladed -or a four-bladed propeller, and is made of -unusual strength. Powerful deck appliances in the -shape of windlass, steam capstans and winch, enable -the ship to warp herself out of a dangerous place, or -pull herself off the bottom should she get aground.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The whole plan and theory of the ship was, first, -that her strength, her power, her weight, her carrying -capacity, should all be below the main deck, and that -everything above deck—houses, bulwarks, spars, sails, -rigging, boats and equipment—should be as light as -possible, to permit more coal in the hold; and second, -that not a dollar was to be wasted on fittings or frills, -everything to be for strength, power, and effectiveness.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The keel of the <i>Roosevelt</i> was laid October 15, 1904, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_370'>370</span>in the McKay & Dix shipyard at Bucksport, Maine, -and the ship was launched the 23d of March, 1905, -Mrs. Peary shattering a block of ice containing a bottle -of champagne against the steel-clad stem as the hull -glided down the ways and christening the ship <i>Roosevelt</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The installation of the machinery began two days -later at Portland, Maine, and was practically completed -in less than two months.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The official measurements of the ship are as follows: -length, 184 feet; breadth, 35.5 feet; depth, 16.2 -feet; gross registered tonnage, 614 tons; maximum -load displacement, about 1,500 tons. The backbone -of the ship, viz. keel, main keelson, stem and stern -posts, as also her frames, plank sheer, the waterways, -and garboard strake, are white oak. Beams, sister -keelsons, deck clamps, ’tween-deck waterways, bilge -strakes, ceiling, and inner course of planking, yellow -pine. Outer planking, white oak, and decks, Oregon -pine. Both the ceiling and outer course of white oak -planking are edge-bolted from stem to stern and from -plank sheer to garboard strake. The fastenings -are galvanised iron bolts, going through both courses -of planking and the frames, and riveting up over -washers on the inside of the ceiling.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Special features of the ship are as follows:</p> - -<p class='c009'>First, in model, a pronounced raking stem and -wedge-shaped bow; very sharp dead rise of floor, -affording a form of side which cannot be grasped by -the ice; a full run to keep the ice away from the propeller; -a pronounced overhang at the stern to still -further protect the propeller, and a raking stern-post.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Second, peculiarities of construction; the unusual -<span class='pageno' id='Page_371'>371</span>fastening, as noted above; the unusual and massive -arrangement of the beams, and bracing of the sides -to resist pressure; the introduction of screw tie rods -to bind the ship together; the development of the -’tween-deck beams and waterways on a water-line, -instead of on a sheer, like the upper-deck beams; the -placing of the ceiling continuous from sister keelson -to upper-deck clamps, and the placing of the ’tween-deck -waterways, deck clamps, and the bilge strakes -on top of the ceiling; the filling in of the bow almost -solid where it meets the impact of the ice; the massive -and unusual reinforcement of the rudder post to prevent -twisting; the adoption of a lifting rudder, which -may be raised out of danger from contact with the ice; -the armouring of the stem and bows with heavy plates -of steel; the protection of the outer planking with -a 2–inch course of greenheart ice sheathing.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Peculiarities of rig are: pole masts throughout; very -short bowsprit, which can be run inboard when navigating -in ice of considerable elevation; three-masted -schooner rig with large balloon staysails. The <i>Roosevelt</i> -carries fourteen sails, including storm staysails, -and has a sail area somewhat less than that of a three-masted -coasting schooner of the same size.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Peculiarities of the machinery installation are: a compound -engine of massive construction; an unusually -heavy shaft of forged steel 12 inches in diameter; a massive -propeller 11 feet in diameter, but with blades -of large area, which are detachable in case of injury; -a triple boiler battery; arrangements for admitting -live steam to the low-pressure cylinder, in order to -largely increase the power for a limited time; an -<span class='pageno' id='Page_372'>372</span>elliptical cruiser-type smoke-stack to reduce wind -resistance.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The best quality of material and labour were put -into the ship, and it was believed and has since been -proven that she is the ablest ship ever built for Arctic -exploration.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_375'>375</span> - <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVII<br /> <span class='large'>MY ESKIMOS<a id='r5'></a><a href='#f5' class='c019'><sup>[5]</sup></a></span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c018'>Plump and rounded figures, emphatically expressive -countenances, bronze-skinned, keen-eyed, -black-maned inhabitants of an icy desert; simple and -honest, occasionally sulky; wandering, homeless people: -these are my children, the Eskimos.</p> - -<div class='footnote' id='f5'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. For portions of this chapter taken from Peary’s “Northward,” the -courtesy of the Frederick A. Stokes Company is hereby gratefully -acknowledged.</p> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Their origin, no one can tell to a certainty; but their -appearance indicates the strong probability of the -correctness of the theory advanced by Sir Clements -Markham, distinguished President of the Royal Geographical -Society of London, that these people are -remnants of an ancient Siberian tribe, the Onkilon. -Many of them are of strikingly Mongolian type of -countenance.</p> - -<p class='c009'>What first impresses one is their inquisitiveness. Dr. -Hayes records the case of an Eskimo woman who had -subjected herself to a temperature of thirty-five degrees -below zero, with the liability to be caught in a -gale; she had travelled forty miles over a track, the -roughness of which frequently compelled her to dismount -from the sledge and walk; she had carried her -child all the way; her sole motive being her curiosity -to see the white men, their igloo (hut), and their strange -treasures.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_376'>376</span>Imagine, then, the arrival of a box—which most -probably in a civilised community, would be looked -upon as a cartload of rubbish. Placed within the -vision of the unspoiled Eskimo, it becomes transformed -into Dantes’s grotto filled with “such stuff as dreams -are made of.” With fox-like inquisitiveness, the object -is approached. Each article is touched, felt and -examined; and later, as the “village gossips” get together, -we listen to the cheery verboseness of “Sairy -Gamp” and Megipsu, discussing the riches of the -<i>Koblunah</i> (white man).</p> - -<p class='c009'>In a country where men, women and children exist -in complete isolation, where vegetation, mineral matter -and even so common a thing as salt are unknown—the -people’s capacity for imitation would ordinarily -be wholly a matter of conjecture; but when brought in -contact with my expedition the Eskimos have shown -wonderful characteristics of Oriental imitation and -adaptation. If given a gun, a hatchet, or a knife as -a model they will reproduce these in miniature, in -walrus ivory, with a faithfulness and accuracy that -seems almost startling in view of their tools and previous -lack of training. The men also pick up with -great ease and celerity the use of the tools of the blacksmith -and the carpenter.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In 1897, an Eskimo boy was brought to New York, -partly because of his unquenchable thirst for novelty -and adventure, and also because we had here a good -opportunity for studying the effects of outside -influence upon primitive innocence. Within a comparatively -short period, this lad acquired a good understanding -of the English tongue; and, in studies as -well as in athletics, he has been considered a match for -the average American youth of his age.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_377'>377</span> -<img src='images/i_377.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>INUAHO<br /><br />Eskimo girl and dog</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_378'>378</span> -<img src='images/i_378.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>AKATINGWAH<br /><br />Wife of Ooblooyah, with baby</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_379'>379</span>In their own country, Eskimos care little or nothing -about acquiring the use of our language. The fact is, -their savage environment and continuous struggle for -existence is hardly conducive to learning of any kind, -beyond the absolute necessaries. Some of the tribe -were taught the use of numerals, the alphabet, and a -few easy words; and, parrot-like, these pupils had an -embarrassing aptitude for picking up the loose words of -the sailors. But as to a common means of communication, -their good sense argued that it was much the -simpler for us to learn <i>their</i> language.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Their vocabulary is composed of many complicated prefixes -and suffixes, and roughly speaking, several hundred -radicals. Naturally quick-witted, they find no difficulty -in expression; and throughout their conversations, -the features and the entire body are brought into -play. I have often observed the remarkable animation -of the eye, the sudden twitching of the mouth, the -laggard or the swift movement of the arms and legs, -when an Eskimo tells his story. It is thus he excites -interest, and the audience is held by the unstudied -dramatic effect.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Shall we mention it? In the Arctic regions as is -the case all over the universe, Woman holds the reputation -for loquacity; hers is the “last word.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Churches, schools, and governments are unknown -quantities. Yet in every home a perfect system of -training goes on for the benefit of the rising generation. -At the earliest age an Eskimo lad will be taught the -use of his arms in the throwing of a harpoon; a little -<span class='pageno' id='Page_380'>380</span>later he learns the hitching up of dog-teams to sledges; -and by the time he has lived twelve winters, he is -taken to the walrus hunting ground to learn to be a -man.</p> - -<p class='c009'>An Eskimo mother loses no time in teaching her -daughter the requirements of a good wife. Household -duties are as carefully practised (allowing for -differences in materials) as in any domestic circle. -Sewing is taught by the fond parent, with as much -patience as was ever evinced by Griselda. At fourteen -or earlier, the young Miss is ripe for marriage.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During my fifteen years of experience with the -Eskimos, I have seen little of the savage treachery -which is so frequently alluded to. Quite the contrary. -These people are subservient to us in a most gratifying -way. It is true that in the beginning of our adventures, -they were inclined to scoff at our awkward -adaptation to Polar conditions; but as we acquainted -them with the use of compass, etc., their laughter -soon changed to expressions of admiration and wonder.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The position of the sun and the movements of the -stars, are the Eskimos’ gauges for time and location. -Thus it will be seen that their ideas of astronomy are -definite, though necessarily limited. For the benefit -of those who have not read my previous work, I shall -retabulate what significance celestial bodies have to -Eskimos. They recognise the Great Dipper as a -herd of reindeer; the three triangular stars of Cassiopeia -are the three stones supporting a celestial stone -lamp; the Pleiades are a team of dogs in pursuit of a -bear; the three glittering brilliants of the belt of Orion -are the steps cut by some celestial Eskimo in a steep -<span class='pageno' id='Page_381'>381</span>snow-bank to enable him to climb to the top; Gemini -are the two door stones of an igloo; Arcturus and -Aldebaran are personifications; and the moon and the -sun are a maiden and her pursuing lover. Less observant -than were the Arab shepherds, they have not -noticed that one star is the centre about which all the -others move, nor have they set apart the planets, -which to them are simply large stars. Probably this -is due to the fact that the movements of the stars can -be observed during only three months of the year.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Amongst themselves, punctuality is a thing of -small value. Yet, I have never known the time when -I could not thoroughly trust my “old guard,” among -these people, for carrying out my orders. When told -to get ready for a certain time—say, daybreak, next -morning—sledges would be found packed, and everything -arranged with the utmost precision.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Their sense of humour is very pronounced. It -is seen in their nicknames for each other, and -particularly for the white men, and again in their -drawings. These latter, crude as they are, leave -no doubt as to the victim. Bow-legs, hooked nose, -protuberant stomach, such deformities as these are -gleefully pounced upon by the local artists, and -emphasised in their portraiture.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Much skill is shown in their carvings. To look at -the minute walrus teeth, one-half inch in length, which -have been wrought upon, one is reminded over and over -again of the dexterity of the Chinese and the Japanese. -Notwithstanding all this ingenuity in ornamentation, -Eskimos find little pleasure in trinkets or personal -frills of any kind. Remembering the stories of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_382'>382</span>Captain John Smith and the Indians, bracelets, beads -and rings were taken North in our first trips, in the expectation -of finding appreciation. At most, these were -received with gratitude for the good will. None of the -women wore them or seemed particularly to care for -them. Occasionally they were brought forth from a -peg in the wall where they had hung for some time, -and examined with a certain air of curiosity. But as -for adorning themselves—such vanities did not occur -to them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The <i>tupiks</i> (tents) and <i>igloos</i> (winter-houses) are all -built after the same plans. There is only the superiority -of workmanship to distinguish the abode of one -man from another. We sometimes see an interesting -form of competition when two huts commence building -simultaneously: One man, Nupsah, has discovered -a huge stone and succeeds in placing it in position. The -neighbours, by their approving glances, proclaim him -master builder. Presently, Pooadloonah finds a larger -stone than any secured by his rival. This is placed in -position, silently. Throughout the proceeding not a -word has been spoken; yet within that conqueror’s -breast there thrills an indisputable note of triumph -and satisfaction. It is the peculiarity of this silent -competition that, even when extended to greater -deeds than the hauling of stones, the best of good -nature is preserved on both sides.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Duels and battles never take place; and there is -only one case of Eskimo murder which comes within -my experience.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Kyo was an <i>angakok</i> (medicine man). He knew -exactly how many <i>sinnipahs</i> (sleeps) would elapse -<span class='pageno' id='Page_383'>383</span>before this or that man would die—almost as well as -our weather bureau can prophesy the coming of a -storm. Often he went into trances, for this is necessary -when one is an <i>angakok</i>. But people do not like -to be told that they are about to expire, particularly -when time proves that the medicine man must have -miscalculated. Such was the case with our Eskimos. -Those of a more optimistic frame of mind took exception -to a man who could inspire the sick with so much -terror; accordingly, a plot was set for the riddance of -his evil spirit.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Their “plot” was nothing more than a scurvy -trick; they reasoned between them that it was justice. -One day, Kyo was asked to accompany a hunting party, -little suspecting that he was to be the object of the hunt. -About five miles from camp he was struck from behind, -and fell, hardly realising what had taken place. Then, -lest his spirit should escape, he was buried and weighted -with stones.</p> - -<p class='c009'>An Eskimo execution is always done after this manner. -Lacking government and laws of any kind, even -subsisting without a leader, the avenger is at liberty to -decide the fate of the criminal. There is this peculiarity; -the execution is never done in open fight; always by -stealth. Yet Eskimos are far from cowardly—as proved -when attacking the polar bear and musk-ox.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The life of an Eskimo rarely exceeds sixty years. -It is amazing that it should persevere to this extent, -despite the malignity of Nature.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There is a particularly touching case of a native who -has been dependent upon his fellow men for the past -fifteen years. When we first saw him he seemed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_384'>384</span>troubled with a slight touch of rheumatism—a malady -not infrequent in those parts. But year after year his -condition grew worse, until to-day he lives practically -ossified—all but his head. Through all these years he -has received consideration; the devotion shown by -his people—is it not wonderful? Nothing is thought -about the matter in that community. Neither age nor -infirmity go neglected; they are cared for without -thought of reward.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The main causes of death are lung and bronchial -troubles.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There exists among these people a form of hysteria -known as <i>piblocto</i> (the same name as given to the -well-known madness among their dogs), with which -women, more frequently than men, are afflicted. During -these spells, the maniac removes all clothing and -prances about like a broncho. In 1898 while the -<i>Windward</i> was in winter quarters off Cape D’Urville, -a married woman was taken with one of these fits in -the middle of night. In a state of perfect nudity she -walked the deck of the ship; then, seeking still greater -freedom, jumped the rail, on to the frozen snow and -ice. It was some time before we missed her, and when -she was finally discovered, it was at a distance of half a mile, -where she was still pawing, and shouting to the -best of her abilities. She was captured and brought -back to the ship; and then there commenced a wonderful -performance of mimicry in which every conceivable -cry of local bird and mammal was reproduced in the -throat of Inaloo. This same woman at other times -attempts to walk the ceiling of her igloo; needless to -say she has never succeeded.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_385'>385</span>A case of piblocto lasts from five minutes to half-an-hour -or more. When it occurs under cover of a -hut, no apparent concern is felt by other inmates, nor -is any attention paid to the antics of the mad one. It -is only when an attempt is made to run abroad, that -the cords of restraint are felt.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of alcohol, and other artificial drinks, there is none. -No excess of any kind—unless we can call “excess” -the hearty eating which is necessary to the Eskimos’ -existence. On the other hand, hunger is no particular -hardship to these people. Their bodies are well-rounded, -seemingly to answer the purpose of the camel’s -hump.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Generosity and hospitality are characteristic. There -is no such thing up North as individual poverty and -riches. It is an unwritten law that when one man has -been particularly fortunate in a hunting expedition, -his tribe will share the net results. It is this feeling -of good fellowship which preserves the race. In other -matters, each family is practically independent. Each -man for himself, a Jack-of-all-trades.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As a rule no Eskimo family lives in one place more -than two consecutive years. The reasons are several; -perhaps the most important being a natural feeling of -unrest. The Eskimo feels more keenly than any other -people that it is not possession, but acquisition which -gives men pleasure and sense of power. Then, too, -there is the desire for change of food. A prolonged -diet of bear flesh has quite as much irksome sameness -for him, as hard tack has for the sailor. Scarcity of -game is another vital consideration. After a siege of -several months’ duration, the food supply is likely to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_386'>386</span>become exhausted and then nothing is left for the man -to do, but shift.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The seal is the Eskimo’s staple food. It is also his -most valuable resource in that it supplies him with -material for clothing, boots, tents, harpoon lines, heat, -light, and food for his dogs. Winter is calculated upon -as nicely in the northern parts, as in any thrifty community. -The Eskimo moderates his appetite during -these months of animal hibernation, according to the -supplies on hand—cuts the coat after the cloth, as -it were.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One is grieved to note a state of reckless abandon in -the matter of dirt. It is quite beyond the comprehension -of these simple folk why washing should be considered -necessary for the comfort of humans. When -we were caught using a tooth-brush, this was too much. -We must indeed be a filthy tribe! “If the mouth is -unclean, what part of us is clean?” Was ever injured -innocence expressed in more sober language?</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the very water in which a walrus feast is about -to be prepared, may often be found the drippings of -greasy garments hanging above: or perhaps excited -by civilisation, the good woman of the place will take -to washing her hands at this moment.</p> - -<p class='c009'>We despair of ever civilising these people, permanently. -While we are in their midst, they seem to -be progressing. But out of sight, out of mind—so -far as civilisation (and hair-combing!) are concerned.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“From many children and little bread, good Lord -deliver us.” This would seem to be the Eskimo’s -prayer, for in no family will be found more than six -children. Though not lacking in warmth of blood -<span class='pageno' id='Page_387'>387</span>they are not a prolific people. “The females arrive at -the age of puberty neither very early nor very late, -but according to their own statements they rarely -have children, even with every possible provocation, -till at least three years later, and I am inclined to think -the statement is substantially correct.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“As the males are considerably in excess there is a -constant demand for wives, and girls frequently marry -while still as flat-chested and as lank-hipped as a boy.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“As regards morals, these people do not stand high -according to our scale. The wife is as much a piece -of personal property, which may be sold, exchanged, -loaned, or borrowed, as a sledge or a canoe. It must -be said in their favour, however, that the children as -well as aged and infirm members of the tribe are well -taken care of, and that, for the former the parents -evince the liveliest affection.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“There seems to be no ceremony for marriage (and -there is none for birth). The matrimonial arrangement -is frequently perfected by the parents while the -parties are children.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“As the female is eligible for marriage much earlier -than the male, a girl may be appropriated by a man -whose wife has died, before her intended is old enough -to marry. This arrangement may continue, or her -intended may claim her when he is old enough. This -is largely a matter of mutual agreement.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“Young couples frequently change partners several -times in the first year or two, till both are suited, when -the union is practically permanent, except for temporary -periods during which an exchange may be effected -with another man, or the wife loaned to a friend.</p> - -<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_388'>388</span>“Motherhood and the various female functions cause -them hardly if any more inconvenience than is the -case with animals.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“The causes of death among the men come largely -under the terse Western expression, ‘with their boots -on.’</p> - -<p class='c009'>“A kayak capsizes, and the occupant is hurled into -the icy water; a hunter harpoons a walrus or bearded -seal from the ice, a bight of the line catches round arm -or leg, and the big brute drags him under to his death; -an iceberg capsizes as he is passing it; a rock or snowslide -from the steep shore cliffs crushes him; or a bear -tears him mortally with a stroke of his paw: and so on. -Occasionally, in the past, starvation has wiped out -an entire village.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“On the death of a man or woman, the body, fully -dressed, is laid straight upon its back on a skin or two, -and some extra articles of clothing placed upon it. -It is then covered with another skin, and the whole -covered in with a low stone structure, to protect the -body from dogs, foxes, and ravens. A lamp with some -blubber is placed close to the grave; and if the deceased -is a man, his sledge and kayak, with his weapons -and implements, are placed close by, and his favourite -dogs, harnessed and attached to the sledge are strangled -to accompany him. If a woman, her cooking-utensils -and the frame on which she has dried the family boots -and mittens, are placed beside the grave. If she has -a dog, it is strangled to accompany her; and if she has -a baby in the hood, it too must die with her.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“If the death occurred in a tent, the poles are removed, -allowing it to settle down over the site, and it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_389'>389</span>is never used again, but rots or is finally blown away. -If the death occurred in an igloo, it is vacated and not -used again for a long time.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“The relatives of the deceased must observe certain -formalities in regard to clothing and food for a certain -time; the name of the dead person is never spoken, and -any other members of the tribe who have the same -name must assume another until the arrival of an infant, -to which the name can be applied, removes the -ban.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“Of religion, properly speaking, they have none. -The nearest approach to it is simply a collection of -miscellaneous superstitions and beliefs in good and -evil spirits. It may be said, in relation to this latter -subject, that information in regard to it is extremely -difficult to obtain, and probably, the bottom facts of -the matter will be known only when some enthusiast -is willing to devote five or six years of his time to -living with them and doing as they do, becoming in -fact, one of them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>“Their amusements are few. In summer there are -tests of strength between the young men of the tribe, -consisting of wrestling, pulling, lifting, and a rude kind -of boxing. In winter the sole amusements are marital -pleasures, and the songs and improvisations of the -<i>angakoks</i>, or medicine men, of the tribe. In the -choruses of these the entire assembled company join.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>At these choruses which are sometimes all-night affairs, -a sort of tambourine is used to keep time to the -“music.” It is made of membrane from the throat -of a walrus, stretched across the antlers of a reindeer. -Dancing is practised only among some of the southerly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_390'>390</span>Greenland folk. These people, without impediment -of clothing are often charmingly graceful; and like -negroes, are indefatigable.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have often been asked: Of what use are Eskimos -to the world? They are too far removed to be of value -in commercial enterprises, and furthermore they lack -ambition. They have no literature, nor, properly -speaking, any art. They value life only as does a fox, -or a bear, purely by instinct.</p> - -<p class='c009'>But, let us not forget that these people, trustworthy -and hardy, will yet prove their value to mankind. -With <i>their</i> help, the world shall discover the Pole.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_391'>391</span> - <h3 class='c023'>CENSUS OF THE SMITH SOUND ESKIMOS<a id='r6'></a><a href='#f6' class='c019'><sup>[6]</sup></a><br /> SEPTEMBER, 1906</h3> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>COMPILED BY ROSS G. MARVIN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c025'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><i>Accomadingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Acrah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Acutah</div> - <div class='line'>Adareingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Adareingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Adareingwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Adareteah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Adareteah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Adashungwah</div> - <div class='line'>Adicka</div> - <div class='line'>Adingnedu</div> - <div class='line'><i>Agootah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ahcreah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ahmahmie</div> - <div class='line'>Ahmungwah</div> - <div class='line'>Ahnenah</div> - <div class='line'>Ahnighite</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ahpedah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ahpelah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ahwaktungwah</div> - <div class='line'>Ahweagoodlu</div> - <div class='line'>Ahweah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ahwegingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ahweingohna</div> - <div class='line'>Akageah</div> - <div class='line'>Akatingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Akatingwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Akpudashawhu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Akpudashawhu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Akpudie</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Akpudingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Aleta</i></div> - <div class='line'>Alnadu</div> - <div class='line'>Alnaduah</div> - <div class='line'>Alnaghite</div> - <div class='line'>Alnalnaweah</div> - <div class='line'>Alnalnaweah</div> - <div class='line'>Alnanungwah</div> - <div class='line'>Alnawingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Alningwah</div> - <div class='line'>Amah</div> - <div class='line'>Anahwe</div> - <div class='line'><i>Anowka</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Asayu</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ashuah</div> - <div class='line'>Atinganah</div> - <div class='line'>Atinganah</div> - <div class='line'>Atita</div> - <div class='line'>Atita</div> - <div class='line'><i>Awatingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Awitackshua</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cadahuh</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cahateah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cahweahshua</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cahweingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cahweingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cahweingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Calwahsooh</i></div> - <div class='line'>Clayingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Clayouh</div> - <div class='line'>Clayouh</div> - <div class='line'><i>Congwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Contigito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Conughito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Conughito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cowluhtoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cowangwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Egeah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Egingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Egingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ekeah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Emenyah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Etokshawsui</div> - <div class='line'>Evalee</div> - <div class='line'>Evalee</div> - <div class='line'><i>Eykapingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ewe</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Idingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_392'>392</span>Illyah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ilquah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ilquahwishah</div> - <div class='line'>Ilquyenah</div> - <div class='line'>Ilyatee</div> - <div class='line'>Ilyatingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Ilyatingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Inadleah</div> - <div class='line'>Inaloo</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ingyapadoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Inughito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Inughito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Inughito</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Inutah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Inutah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Inuwahsu</div> - <div class='line'>Ienah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ioshowty</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ircra</i></div> - <div class='line'>Isheata</div> - <div class='line'><i>Itookishoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Itookishoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Iyakpungwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Kashadu</div> - <div class='line'><i>Kepehocshaw</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kepeingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Keshu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Keshu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Keshungwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Kudeah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudla</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudla</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudlanah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudlooktoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudlutinah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kudlutinah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kulitingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kyangwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kyangwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kyangwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kyooh</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Kyoohtah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Makshangwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Maksingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Maksingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Mamonah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Mayshowna</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Meetil</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Meetil</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Mehootiah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Mercrah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Merkrisha</i></div> - <div class='line'>Mickeyshoo</div> - <div class='line'><i>Mickgipsu</i></div> - <div class='line'>Moneyshaw</div> - <div class='line'>Mooney</div> - <div class='line'>Mooney</div> - <div class='line'><i>Mucktah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Mucktoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Myooh</i></div> - <div class='line'>Nedickta</div> - <div class='line'>Nedingwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Nehatalahow</i></div> - <div class='line'>Nelikateah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Nepsingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Netooh</div> - <div class='line'>Neuah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Neuahateah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Neuakina</div> - <div class='line'>Neuakingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Neuakingwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Neucapingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Neuktah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ongmalooktoo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ongudablaho</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ongudloo</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ongudloogipsu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ongwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oobluyah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oobluyah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oogwhi</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oohasingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Ootah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ooyah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ouatingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Ouheah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Ouweak</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oushakupsie</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Oweah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Panikpah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Peowahtah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Poohtah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Puadloonah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Puadloonah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Puadloonah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Publa</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Publa</i></div> - <div class='line'>Qouyoupee</div> - <div class='line'>Quoyoupee</div> - <div class='line'>Seadacuteah</div> - <div class='line'>Seakingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Segwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Shakupsungwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Shatooh</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Siglu</i></div> - <div class='line'>Sihmeah</div> - <div class='line'>Silmah</div> - <div class='line'>Silmingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Sineungwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Sipsu</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Socrah</i></div> - <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_393'>393</span>Sohningwah</div> - <div class='line'>Songwah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Taacheah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Taachingwag</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Teddylingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'>Tongingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Tookamingwah</div> - <div class='line'>Tookumah</div> - <div class='line'><i>Touchingwah</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Tungwhi</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Un-named</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Un-named</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Un-named</i></div> - <div class='line'>Un-named</div> - <div class='line'>Un-named</div> - <div class='line'><i>Un</i>-named</div> - <div class='line'><i>Un</i>-named</div> - <div class='line'><i>Un</i>-named</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c023'>SUMMARY</h3> - -<p class='c024'>119 <i>Males</i>, 85 Females, <a href='#f6' class='c019'><sup>[6]</sup></a>3 Infants sex un-learned. Total 207</p> - -<p class='c009'>August 31, 1895, this tribe numbered 253—males 140, females 113</p> - -<div class='lg-container-r'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>R.E.P.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f6'> -<p class='c009'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. Names of males in italic, females in roman.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_397'>397</span> - <h2 class='c006'>INDEX</h2> -</div> - -<ul class='index c002'> - <li class='c032'>Abruzzi’s “farthest,” <a href='#Page_97'>97</a> - <ul> - <li>highest, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Adams, Mt., Bluffs of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ahmah, Merktoshah’s wife, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ahngmalokto, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - <li class='c032'>“Ahnighito,” meteorite brought home, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ahsayoo, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Albert</i> and <i>Polaris</i>, channels navigated, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Aldrich’s “farthest,” <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Almy boilers, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Appearance of glacier, see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'>Arctic autumn night, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Arctic, beginning of winter, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a> - <ul> - <li>canons of navigation, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>Circle, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>Circle crossed, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>day, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li>exploration, its main purpose, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>ice, from Cape Sabine to Grant Land, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>life at Godhavn, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>library, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>maps, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>perfect summer night, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>purple flowers, grass, moss, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>summer, end of, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - <li>night; - <ul> - <li>surface of Inglefield Gulf;</li> - <li>ice;</li> - <li>icebergs and glaciers;</li> - <li>slopes of the “great ice”;</li> - <li>red-brown bluffs, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>ship, main work of, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a></li> - <li>power of, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a></li> - <li>wood essential in construction of, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>terns, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>three degrees beyond Arctic Circle; - <ul> - <li>keen breeze, aspect of water;</li> - <li>aspect of cliffs of Disco, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>;</li> - <li>“Ultima Thule,” <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>winter, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'><i>Alert</i>, winter quarters of, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Assizes Harbour, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Attainment of the Pole, <a href='#Page_x'>x</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Anoritok, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Aurora, seen while lying at Domino Run, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Autumn, work of, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Bache Island, a peninsula, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Barometer, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bartlett, Capt. Robt. A., see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a> - <ul> - <li>his departure for Cape Hecla, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - <li>Samuel, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li>John, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li>Harry, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li>Moses, mate, see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Basis of successful national character, <a href='#Page_viii'>viii</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_398'>398</span>Battle Harbour, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Battle with the ice, lasting 75 days, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bay, Allman, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a> - <ul> - <li>Belknap, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li>Bismarck, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> - <li>Buchanan, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - <li>Carl Ritter, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>Chateau, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li>Cope’s, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>Disraeli, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li>Franklin Pierce, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li>Hand, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li>Independence, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> - <li>Jas. Ross, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - <li>Lady Franklin, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - <li>Lincoln, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - <li>McClintock, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>Maury, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>Melville, no ice seen in bay, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - <li>Musk-ox, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>Newman, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li>North Star, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>off Milne, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li>Parker Snow, last of the Eskimos landed, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>Parr, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>Porter, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li>Princess Marie, filled with ice, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li>sledge trip, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>reconnoissance of, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>Rawlings, packed with ice, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>Richardson, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>Rowan, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li>Sagdlek, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li>St. Patrick, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - <li>Sawyer and Woodward, arms of Princess Marie Bay, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>Scoresby, squeezed into, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li>Shift Rudder, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> - <li>Wrangel, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a> - <ul> - <li>full of slack ice, ship delayed by floe in, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Yelverton, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a> - <ul> - <li>full of glaciers, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Bear, first seen by the Expedition, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a> - <ul> - <li>hunt, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - <li>Polar, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Bears, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bear Camp, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Beaumont, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bedford Pim Island, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Belle Isle, graveyard of ships, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Benedict, E. C., <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Benedict, H. H., <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bergs, see first appearance, under Ice; - <ul> - <li>see 68° Lat., under Ice;</li> - <li>fleet of, see Ice;</li> - <li>two, see Ice;</li> - <li>at Cape John Barrow, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>;</li> - <li>see small berg, under Ice;</li> - <li>berg-like, see Ice</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Bright depot of boats, coal and provisions landed, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Big Lead, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a> - <ul> - <li>ice on northern side, scar of, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> - <li>open water, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Black Cape, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a> - <ul> - <li>Horn Cliffs, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a> - <ul> - <li>fronted by open water, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Bliss, Eliphalet W., <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Blue-top floe-bergs, see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'>“Bo’sun” bird, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Bradford, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Brant, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a> - <ul> - <li>flock of, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>at Southwest Camp, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Bridgman, Herbert L., <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_399'>399</span>Brown children of the ice, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Buchanan “Strait,” <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Cache, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a> - <ul> - <li>on hummock of old floe, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - <li>of musk-ox meat, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li>of provisions, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li>deposited at Cape D’Urville, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>at Cape Sabine, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Cairn, <i>Alert’s</i>, at Floeberg Beach, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a> - <ul> - <li>record, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li>at summit of 1,600 ft. record deposited, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li>at top of Columbia, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li>built near ice-foot, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> - <li>Lockyer Island, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>at Cape Morris K. Jesup, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> - <li><i>Alert’s</i>—<i>Alert’s</i> winter quarters, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Cairn Point, ship headed for, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Camp, between enormous hummocks, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a> - <ul> - <li>first, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li>floe, see Ice</li> - <li>off Challenger Point, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li>on outer swell of glacier, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Campaign, preparation for spring, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Caribou, from Ellesmere Land, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>–351</li> - <li class='c032'>Cape Albert, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a> - <ul> - <li>Albert Edward, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li>Alfred Ernest, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>Alexandra, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li>Alexander, reached at midnight, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>Athol, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>Anguille, on Newfoundland coast, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - <li>Baird, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>Beechy, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li>Benêt, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> - <li>Brevoort, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> - <li>Bridgman, latitude of, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - <li>Bryant, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li>Calhoun, sailed into loose ice, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>Chalon, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>Collision, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>Conger, time spent in homely duties, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a></li> - <li>Cracroft, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>Creswell, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>Desfosse, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> - <li>Defosse, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a></li> - <li>Discovery, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>D’Urville, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li>Dudley Diggs, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>Dyer, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li>Fanshawe Martin, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a> - <ul> - <li>same Lat. as Hecla, deep snow, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Farewell and Chidley, in latitude of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li>Fraser, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a> - <ul> - <li>dog-food and supplies advanced to, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Harrigan, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li>Harrison, tidal current, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>Hecla, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a> - <ul> - <li>three marches from Sheridan;</li> - <li>time spent there;</li> - <li>occupation while there, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - <li>difficulties in reaching, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Henry Cliffs, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>Isabella, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li>John Sparrow, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>Joseph Goode, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>Joseph Henry, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_400'>400</span>Lawrence, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>,</li> - <li>Lieber to Joe Island, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>Leopold von Buch, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>Louis Napoleon, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a> - <ul> - <li>supplies at, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Lupton, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>May, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li>Morris K. Jesup, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>Nares, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li>Neumeyer, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>North, young ice on tidal crack, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> - <li>Norton Shaw, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>Parry, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>Rawson, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li>Richardson, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - <li>Ramsay, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> - <li>Carl Ritter, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>Sabine, densely packed with ice, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>Sheridan, extremity of, ice packed heavily against point of, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a> - <ul> - <li>to Cape Hecla, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Stanton, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> - <li>Summer, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>Sumner, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> - <li>Union, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li>Wilkes, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>York, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Celebration, July 4th, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Cestus, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Chart, notes for, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Channels, Kennedy and Robeson, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Channel pack, contest with, see ice; - <ul> - <li>very large floes, no leads, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Channel, Robeson, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Christmas Day, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Cirro strata, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Clark, Chas., fireman, see personnel of the party under Expedition</li> - <li class='c032'>Clark, with his Eskimos, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Clements Markham Inlet, trip into, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a> - <ul> - <li>condition while crossing, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Cliffs, Disco, visible 95 miles away, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Clouds, inky, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Coast, between Wrangel and Lincoln Bays, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Colgate, Jas. C., <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Columbia, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a> - <ul> - <li>twin peaks of, its ascent begun, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Commander Peary’s reply to President Roosevelt, <a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Conger, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Copies of records from cairns, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Cosmic boundaries, <a href='#Page_xi'>xi</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Cracks, closing of, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Crew and firemen, see personnel of the party under Expedition</li> - <li class='c032'>Crossed second glacier, see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'>Crozier Island, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Cumberland Sound, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Darling, Judge, Asst. Secy. of the Navy, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Daylight, disappearing, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Deer, track in the snow, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a> - <ul> - <li>development of dew claws, length of hoofs, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>numerous in Western Land, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>–8</li> - <li>skins, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Delta, Boat Camp, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Diet, preserved eggs and mush, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Dennis and Mike, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Disk, sun’s, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_401'>401</span><i>Diana</i>, S.S., despatched to Etah, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Distant Cape, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Discovery</i>, S.S., <a href='#Page_363'>363</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Dix, Capt., builder of the <i>Roosevelt</i>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a> - <ul> - <li>Capt. Chas. B., <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Dogs, deaths of, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a> - <ul> - <li>killed, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li>the gray, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> - <li>number of survivors, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li>their diet changed from pemmican, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>maimed from ice, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li>the white, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li>twelve left, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>heard from the shore, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li>additional number purchased, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>food, sent to Cape Sabine, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Dobbin Bay, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Dory, sent to Cape Louis Napoleon, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Drift Point, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Domino Run, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a> - <ul> - <li>lying to, letters left, length of stay—fall of the fog, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Dome Cape, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> - <li class='c002'><i>Eagle</i>, S.S., used in Arctic exploration of 1886, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ellesmere Land, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Episodes, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Erik</i>, S.S., <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a> - <ul> - <li>getting aboard, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>alongside the <i>Roosevelt</i>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>her arrival at Etah, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>Harbour, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'><i>Ermack</i>, Russian S.S., <a href='#Page_362'>362</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Eskimo dog, <a href='#Page_x'>x</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Eskimo, settlement, village, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a> - <ul> - <li>families, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>natives taken on board, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>dogs and supplies held in readiness, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>busy at work, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>prosperity of natives, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>hunting party sent out, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li>parties sent out for musk-oxen, return from Black Cliffs Bay, making sledges, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li>settlements in the interior, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li>their excitement, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li>most northerly born babe, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>sent to form cache, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Eskimos, report of rafted ice, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a> - <ul> - <li>as trailers, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>–1</li> - <li>their temperament, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li>at their meal of musk-oxen, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>sent into Cape Bryant region, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li>dismissed until homeward voyage, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - <li>sent overland for skins, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> - <li>physical characteristics, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a></li> - <li>return of, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>their origin, their inquisitiveness, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a></li> - <li>as imitators, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a></li> - <li>their training, their vocabulary, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a></li> - <li>significance to them of celestial bodies, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a></li> - <li>gauges for time and location, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a></li> - <li>sense of humour, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a></li> - <li>their ingenuity in ornamentation, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a></li> - <li>staple food of, ideas of cleanliness, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_402'>402</span>matrimonial arrangement, as regards morals, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a></li> - <li>their death ceremony, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a></li> - <li>their amusements, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a></li> - <li>their religious beliefs, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a></li> - <li>how useful to the world, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Etah, rendezvous at, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Expedition, its objective point, opening scenes of the voyage, starting point, <i>Polaris</i>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a> - <ul> - <li>the ship, its decks, its quarters, regrets at leaving, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li>personnel of the party, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>–9</li> - <li>notice to members, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> - <li>environment of, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>–11</li> - <li>time of starting, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>course after leaving Domino Run, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li>southern sub-base, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>–35</li> - <li>preparation for wintering, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - <li>quartered at Hecla, subsistence, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li>arrival at Etah, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li>United States Lady Franklin Bay records, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>return to New York, results of, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - <li>Lady Franklin Bay, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Explorer, the true, <a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Fielden Peninsula, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Fire, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Flags, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Flipper, square, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Floes, velocity of, see Ice - <ul> - <li>heavy floes in rapid motion, see Ice</li> - <li>big blue, see Ice</li> - <li>blue-topped, see Ice</li> - <li>blue hummock kind, see Ice</li> - <li>8–10 miles diameter, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>driven ashore, see Ice</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Floeberg, 20 to 28 feet above the water, see Ice - <ul> - <li>and paleocrystic ice, origin of, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - <li>birthplace of, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Flowers at Cape Aldrich, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a> - <ul> - <li>in bloom, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Fog, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, dense, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a> - <ul> - <li>feeling way through the straits, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li>on uplands of peninsula, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>extinguishes trail, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>“Fog eater,” fog bow, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Fort Conger, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a> - <ul> - <li>door of, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>site of, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Fragments of floes, see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'><i>Fram</i>, S.S., <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Fossils in the rocks, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Foulke Fiord, mouth of, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Fox</i>, Danish steamship, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Gale, October 16th, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Game score, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a> - <ul> - <li>secured, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Gateway, American, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Gauss</i>, S.S., <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Getting ready for rough water, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Gifford Peak, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Glacier, character of glacial fringe, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a> - <ul> - <li>Tossuketek, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_403'>403</span>Heilprin, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>Melville, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>Petowik, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>Tracy, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>Snout, see Ice</li> - <li>composed of hummock ice, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Glaciers at head of Sawyer Bay, view from, see Ice - <ul> - <li>true characteristics, see Ice</li> - <li>Disco Bay, see Ice</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Glacial fringe, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a> - <ul> - <li>interesting to glacialists, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li>surface of, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>clay, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Gravel, appearance of, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a> - <ul> - <li>reached, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Gray dog, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li class='c032'>“Great day,” in border land of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c032'>“Great Ice,” see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'>“Great Night,” <a href='#Page_17'>17</a> - <ul> - <li>preparation for, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Greely party (1883), <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Godhavn, Capital of Northern Inspectorate of Greenland; under Cliffs of Disco, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c032'>“Grand Canal,” <a href='#Page_345'>345</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Granite erratic at Cape Aldrich, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Grant Land, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a> - <ul> - <li>coast of 190,</li> - <li>western shore, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Greenland, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a> - <ul> - <li>Mts., snow-clad summit, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>shore of, trip given up, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>caribou, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Grinnell Land, coast of, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>shore of unbroken ice, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Guillemot, Brunnich’s, flying south, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a> - <ul> - <li>in the water, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Gull, skua, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a> - <ul> - <li>Burgomaster, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c002'>Hall Basin, western portion packed with ice, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Hamilton Fish Peak, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Harbour, Battle, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a> - <ul> - <li>outside of, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li> - <li>Discovery, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>; - <ul> - <li>winter quarters of <i>Discovery</i>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Payer, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>Repulse, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - <li>Thank God, winter quarters of Hall’s <i>Polaris</i>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Hayes, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a> - <ul> - <li>Point, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - <li>halt south of, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Hecla, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Hebron, Labrador coast, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Henson, Matthew, personal attendant of Com. Peary, see personnel of the party, under Expedition - <ul> - <li>beside closed lead, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>departure from Cape Hecla, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li>Henson’s farthest, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li>his report, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>sent to Etah, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - <li>and Capt. Bartlett, their records, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Herbert and Northumberland Islands, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Highways, beyond the world’s, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Holsteinburg, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Hope, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a> - <ul> - <li>ship used in Arctic exploration in 1898, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li>Sanderson’s, named by John Davis, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_404'>404</span>Hopedale, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Hospital, Bellevue, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a> - <ul> - <li>St. Vincent’s, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Hudson Bay, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a> - <ul> - <li>River, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li>Strait, chop sea, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Housing of the personnel, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Ice, a chaos, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a> - <ul> - <li>active glacier west of Cape Fanshawe Martin, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>against the coast at Domino Run, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li>along the Grinnell coast, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li>ancient ice encountered, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li>appearance of glacier, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - <li>berg-like pieces, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>big hummock, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li>blue-topped floe-bergs, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - <li>camp floe, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li>channel pack, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>character of, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li>commotion continuous, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>completely flooded, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>contest with channel pack, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - <li>crossed second glacier, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - <li>culmination of its movement, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li>Disco Bay glaciers, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>East Coast, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>edge of ice-foot chopped away, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li>features of the glacial fringe, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li>field of beautiful icebergs, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li>first appearance of bergs, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li>fleet of bergs, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>“floeberg,” 20 to 28 ft. above water, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>floes, blue hummock kind encountered in March, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li>floe driven ashore, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>one hundred feet in height, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> - <li>glacial fringe, characteristic of, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li>glaciers at head of Buchanan Bay, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>glacier at head of Sawyer Bay, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>glaciers, two, true characteristics, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>“Great Ice,” <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>heavy floes in rapid motion, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li>heavy pack, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li>Heilprin glacier, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>homogeneous ice, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li>cap, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li>foot, north of Cape Union, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li>foot, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>in Nansen’s Strait, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li>its aspect along Grinnell Land, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>its aspect, young ice, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li>its aspect, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li>its condition, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> - <li>its horrible conglomeration, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li>its separation from the ice-foot, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li>journey in darkness, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>large floes, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li>large fields moving southward, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>loose, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>Melville glacier, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>middle pack, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li>narrow shaves from icebergs, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_405'>405</span>north of Cape Washington, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - <li>off Cape Albert, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li>old floes passed, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>pack surging down Smith</li> - <li>Sound, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li>peculiar formations of, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> - <li>Petowik glacier, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>Polar pack, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li>pressed harder with the flood-tide, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li>rough, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>rubble, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li>rubble ice as nets, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li>rubble ice half congealed, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li>sea ice, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>shifting, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - <li>small berg, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li>solid edge of, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>surging of the pack, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>thickness of young ice, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>through rafters and rubble, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li>Tossuketek glacier, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>Tracy glacier, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>trail over young ice, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>trash ice, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>traversed in March, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> - <li>traversed fragments of old floes, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> - <li>trouble with, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>twenty-seven bergs in 68° Lat., <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>two bergs, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li>two big blue floes, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - <li>velocity of floes, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - <li>ice window (in igloo), <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li>winter’s ice still intact, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>young ice across the lead, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>young ice, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a> - <ul> - <li>(formed), <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Ice-bergs, see Narrow shaves from, under Ice; also see Field of, under Ice - <ul> - <li>ice boats, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a></li> - <li>ice-cap, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li>ice-foot, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a> - <ul> - <li>edge of, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Ice-foot, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a> - <ul> - <li>Alpine in character, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>a broad deep lake, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - <li>a trail along, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - <li>found by Egerton, Rawson and Parry, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - <li>hewing road along, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - <li>reaching from (reaching low-sloping “spit”), <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Igloos, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a> - <ul> - <li>abreast of Cape Albert, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li>at Hecla, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li>built of floe, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li>building of, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>“Christmas,” <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>Henson’s, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li>first, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>Henson’s igloo shattered, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>snow, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Igludiahni, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Inaloo, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Independence Bay, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Inlet, Clements Markham, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Intermediate Point, difficulties encountered, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Inueto, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Island, Bache, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>Beaumont, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li>Bellot, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>Britannia, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li>Crozier, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - <li>Duck, (whaler’s lookout on summit), <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - <li>Eagle, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li>Ellison, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_406'>406</span>Franklin, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>Hare, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>Harvard, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>Herbert, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>Josephine Peary, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>Joe, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>Littleton, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li>Meteorite (Eskimo taken aboard), <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>Norman Lockyer, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>Red, (passed afternoon of second day out), <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - <li>Saunders (bird cliffs), <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>Stephenson, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>Sukkertoppen, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>Ward Hunt, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li>Williams, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Ittibloo, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Jesup, Morris K., <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a> - <ul> - <li>Founder of the Expedition, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>President of the Peary Arctic Club, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Jesup Land, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a> - <ul> - <li>attainment of, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Journey, down Baffin’s Bay, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li class='c032'>July 30th, reached the S.S. <i>Roosevelt</i>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Kamiks, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kangerdlooksoah, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a> - <ul> - <li>deep pastures of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Kane Basin filled with Polar pack, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Karnah, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a> - <ul> - <li>six tents located here, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Kayak, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kennedy Channel, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kittiwakes, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kolguev, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kookan, landing of Eskimos, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kooletah (deerskin coat), <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Koolootingwah and Ooblooyah sent to reconnoitre, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Kyo, Anangabok (medicine man), <a href='#Page_383'>383</a> - <ul> - <li>with hunting party, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c002'>Labrador, on the coast of, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Lake, a deep blue, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a> - <ul> - <li>Hazen, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Lamps, in commission, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Large floe, see Ice</li> - <li class='c032'>Latitude from noon sights, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a> - <ul> - <li>reached, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Lead, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a> - <ul> - <li>across Robeson Channel, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>crossed on young ice, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li>eleven, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>fifty feet wide, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li>its closing (the “Hudson River”), <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li>its extent, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - <li>young ice cut by, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Leaving last camp, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Lemming burrows, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a> - <ul> - <li>fauna of Jesup Land, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Library, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Lieber, Cape, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Lincoln Bay, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Line of demarcation, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Lockwood’s record, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Malone, Murtaugh J., asst. engineer, see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Mary Murray Island, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Marvin, Ross G., secy. and asst., see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_407'>407</span>Marvin, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a> - <ul> - <li>his report of musk-oxen, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>his return with the Eskimos, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>his report of the <i>Roosevelt</i>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - <li>his westward compass, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>March, distance covered, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a> - <ul> - <li>from S. W. Camp, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li>plan of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li>the first, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>the last outward, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Mascart Inlet, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Medical College (Cornell University), <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Meigs Fiord, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Melville Bay, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Moons (winter), duration, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Moraine material, camp on, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Mount, Camel, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a> - <ul> - <li>Cheops, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>Daly (red-brown bluffs of), <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>Saddle, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>Streaked, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>Twin, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>Wistar, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Mountains, Greenland, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Musk-oxen, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a> - <ul> - <li>cows, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li>killing of, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - <li>tracks in the snow, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>twenty-one killed, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Murphy, John, boatswain, see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Mystery of the North, <a href='#Page_xi'>xi</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Nain, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Nansen, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a> - <ul> - <li>Nansen’s Strait, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Nordenskjold Inlet, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Nares Land, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Narksami, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Narwhal, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a> - <ul> - <li>school of, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>National Geographic Society, <a href='#Page_vii'>vii</a> - <ul> - <li>Hubbard Medal of, <a href='#Page_vii'>vii</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Natives, property of, see Eskimos - <ul> - <li>report of Melville Bay, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - <li>taken on board, see Eskimos</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Navy Department, leave of absence granted Com. Peary, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Neptune</i>, Canadian Government Steamer, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Newfoundland, ice, pilots, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Newman Bay, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> - <li class='c032'>New land, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Nicaragua, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'>North Coast Mts., <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> - <li class='c032'>North Pole, value of attainment, <a href='#Page_x'>x</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Norwegians, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a> - <ul> - <li>and Americans, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Nungwoodie, the gray dog, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Observatory Pinnacle, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Observation Camp, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a> - <ul> - <li>with sextant and transit, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Old floes, see ice</li> - <li class='c032'>Omens, of the ship’s position, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Onkilon, Siberian tribe, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ooming-muksue (musk-oxen), <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Oomunui, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Oatah, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Open leads, region of, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_408'>408</span>Open water, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a> - <ul> - <li>see “big lead,” <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li>alongside of the ice-foot, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li>in shape of leads and lakes, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li>its extent, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Orography of the glacial fringe, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Outward track, impracticable, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li class='c002'>“Paleocrystic” floes, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Panama, Stars and Stripes planted, <a href='#Page_xi'>xi</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Panikpah, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Panther, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Payer Harbour, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Pemmican, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a> - <ul> - <li>supply exhausted, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Peninsula, Bache, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Percy, Chas., steward, see personnel of the party under Expedition</li> - <li class='c032'>Peary Arctic Club, <a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a> - <ul> - <li>contributors to, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>founders of, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>history of, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - <li>incorporators of, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>its officers, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li>its charter, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>object of, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - <li>organisation of, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Personnel of the party on return, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Petersen, Danish interpreter, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Piblocto, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Plan accomplished, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Point Armour Light, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Point Moss, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a> - <ul> - <li>20 miles west of Cape Hecla, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Polar, ocean, <a href='#Page_x'>x</a> - <ul> - <li>middle pack, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li>Polar pack, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a> - <ul> - <li>contest with, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>gateway to the Polar sea, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>mystery, <a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li>Sea, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'><i>Polaris</i>, left by Hall’s party, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a> - <ul> - <li>boat camp, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Poppies, at Cape Aldrich, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Potentilla, growing at Cape Aldrich, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Pot Rocks, coast of Labrador, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Pressure ridges, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Primus stoves, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Programme, for spring work, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ptarmigan, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Pumice and slag, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Rafters and rubble, see Ice, of Alpine character, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Rainbow Hill, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Rangifer Pearyi, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a> - <ul> - <li>Grænlandicus, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Range, United States, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Reconnoissance, along the ice-foot, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a> - <ul> - <li>from Cape Frederick VIII, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li>for spring route, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Record, in cairn, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a> - <ul> - <li>in North cairn, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Records, at Cape D’Urville, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Reindeer, found on Fielden Peninsula, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Report, to Peary Arctic Club, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li class='c032'>River, Ruggles, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a> - <ul> - <li>Shelter, south of Cape Union, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_409'>409</span><i>Roosevelt</i>, S.S., a crucial moment, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>; - <ul> - <li>arrival in New York, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>;</li> - <li>as a sea boat, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - <li>a splendid ice-fighter, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - <li>at Etah, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>beginning her fight with ice, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li>capacity, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>channels navigated as far as Cape Sheridan, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li>construction and launching, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>christened by Mrs. Peary, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a></li> - <li>departed from Etah, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>desperate fight with the big floes, battle won by brute force, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> - <li>departure for North, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>features of her model, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a></li> - <li>forced ashore by large floes, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - <li>forced ashore a second time, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - <li>forcing way through dense barrier of ice, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li>forced on to heavy floe, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>furnishings of her rooms, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>general construction, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>–369</li> - <li>goes direct to Etah, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>heading for Thank God Harbour, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li>headed for Cape Isabella, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>held up by the ice, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - <li>her decks on leaving North Sydney, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>her cargo, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li>her cargo on leaving Etah, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>her detour to the east, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li>her struggle with the ice north of C. Lupton, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>her crucial time, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>her moorings, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>impending peril, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>imprisoned among heavy floes, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - <li>official measurements, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a></li> - <li>on board after backward journey, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - <li>propeller loose, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>race with incoming pack, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li>readings of the log, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - <li>ready for fight with Arctic Sea, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>repaired at Etah, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>restowed her supplies, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>return to Sydney, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - <li>severing connection with the civilised world, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li>sight at Cape Rawson, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li>size, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a></li> - <li>special features of, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a></li> - <li>travelling under difficulties, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Roosevelt, President, etching of, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ross Bay, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Routes, two feasible, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Rubble ice, see Ice</li> - <li class='c002'>Sabine, Cape, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - <li class='c032'>St. George, Cape, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a> fiord, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li class='c032'>St. Mary’s school ship, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - <li class='c032'>St. Paul’s Light, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sandpiper, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Saunders Island, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Scotch, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Scotchmen, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a></li> - <li class='c032'><span class='pageno' id='Page_410'>410</span>Sea, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a> - <ul> - <li>East Greenland, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>ice, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a> - <ul> - <li>attempt to sledge over, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Seal, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a> - <ul> - <li>near ice-foot, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li>seen on ice, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>six, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>September 5th, a memorable day, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sextant, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Shelter River, mooring of the <i>Roosevelt</i>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sheridan Point, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sherard Osborn fiord, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Ship, for Arctic and Antarctic navigation, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a> - <ul> - <li>held by ice, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li>motion of, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Sinnipahs, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sipsu, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a> - <ul> - <li>dog killed, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Sipsu and his wife, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sir Clements Markham, President of the Royal Geographical Society, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sledges, carried on backs of the party, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a> - <ul> - <li>repaired and strengthened, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li>journey for spring, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Smith Sound, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Snow, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>blindness, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li>bunting, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li>snowshoeing, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>snowy owl, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Society, Seamen’s Friend, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sound, Whale, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a> - <ul> - <li>Wolstenholm, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Soundings, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li class='c032'>“Spits,” <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Spring, campaign, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Squalls, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Steamers, two, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Storm Camp, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Stoves, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Strait, Cabot, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a> - <ul> - <li>Davis, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Streams, two negotiated, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Summits, snow-clad of distant land, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sun, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sverdrup’s “farthest,” <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sverdrup, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Swells, rolling, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Sydney, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Talus, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Temperature, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tidal crack, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tides, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tigress, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Thermometer, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Trail, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Transit, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tree, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Trevor-Battye, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tumulus, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Tupiks, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Twilight, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a> - <ul> - <li>arc, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Twin Peaks of Columbia, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Very River, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Victoria Head, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Victoria Inlet, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li class='c032'>View, from Lookout Hill, from bluffs, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a> - <ul> - <li>of peaks from Cape Alfred Ernest, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li>from Cape Hawkes, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>View Point, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - <li class='c002'><span class='pageno' id='Page_411'>411</span>Waigatt, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Walrus, first appearance of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>grounds, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>out to the grounds, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>number secured, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>in Buchanan Bay region, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Wardwell, Geo. A., chief engineer, see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a> - <ul> - <li>his report, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Water, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Water sky, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Water-smoke, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Weather, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Western trip, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Whales (two), first appearance of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Whale Sound glaciers, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Whaling Station, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li class='c032'><i>Windward</i>, S. S., <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Winds, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Winter, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>Arctic, atmospheric conditions, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c032'>Wolfe, Dr. Louie J., surgeon, see personnel of the party under Expedition, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - <li class='c032'>Work accomplished, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Zone of high ridges of rubble ice, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a></li> -</ul> - -<div id='END' class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_414.jpg' alt='THE POLAR REGIONS Showing the ROUTES AND EXPLORATIONS of ROBERT E. PEARY, U. S. N. From 1892 to 1906' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_416.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>THE NORTH POLAR REGIONS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c004' /> -</div> -<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'> - -<div class='chapter ph2'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - - <ol class='ol_1 c002'> - <li>P. <a href='#t291'>291</a>, changed “°F” to “inches of Hg”. - - </li> - <li>Silently corrected obvious typographical errors and variations in spelling. - - </li> - <li>Retained archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as printed. - - </li> - <li>Re-indexed footnotes using numbers. - </li> - </ol> - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEAREST THE POLE ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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