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diff --git a/old/68841-0.txt b/old/68841-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 574f67d..0000000 --- a/old/68841-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14534 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Illustrations of the manners, customs, -& condition of the North American Indians, Vol. 2 (of 2), by George -Catlin - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Illustrations of the manners, customs, & condition of the North - American Indians, Vol. 2 (of 2) - With letters and notes, written during eight years of travel and - adventure among the wildest and most remarkable tribes now - existing - -Author: George Catlin - -Release Date: August 26, 2022 [eBook #68841] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Richard Hulse, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MANNERS, -CUSTOMS, & CONDITION OF THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS, VOL. 2 (OF 2) *** - - - -[Illustration: U. STATES’ INDIAN FRONTIER IN 1840. - - _Showing the Positions of the Tribes that have been removed west of - the Mississippi._] - - - - - ILLUSTRATIONS - OF THE - _MANNERS, CUSTOMS, & CONDITION_ - OF THE - NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. - - =With Letters and Notes,= - - +Written during Eight Years of Travel and Adventure among the - Wildest and most Remarkable Tribes now Existing+. - - +By+ GEORGE CATLIN. - - WITH - _THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY COLOURED ENGRAVINGS_ - FROM THE AUTHOR’S ORIGINAL PAINTINGS. - - [Illustration] - - IN TWO VOLUMES.—VOL. II. - - =London:= - CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY. - 1876. - - - - - CONTENTS - OF - THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - LETTER—No. 32. - -Cantonment Leavenworth, p. 1, 15.—Shiennes, p. 2.—Portraits of, pls. - 115, 116.—Floyd’s Grave, p. 4, pl. 118.—Black Bird’s Grave, p. 5, pl. - 117.—Beautiful grassy bluffs, p. 8, pls. 119, 120.—Mandan remains, - p. 9, pl. 121.—Belle Vue, p. 11, pl. 122.—Square hills, p. 11, pl. - 123.—Mouth of Platte, p. 13, pl. 125.—Buffaloes crossing, p. 13, pl. - 126. - - - LETTER—No. 33. - -Grouse shooting before the burning prairies, p. 16.—Prairie bluffs - burning, p. 17, pl. 127.—Prairie meadows burning, p. 17, pl. 128. - - - LETTER—No. 34. - -Ioways, p. 22, pls. 129, 130, 132.—Konzas, p. 22, pls. 133, 134, 135, - 136.—Mode of shaving the head, p. 23.—Pawnees, p. 24.—Small-pox - amongst Pawnees, p. 25.—Major Dougherty’s opinion of the Fur Trade, - p. 26.—Grand Pawnees, p. 27, pls. 138, 139, 140.—Ottoes, p. 27, pls. - 143, 144.—Omahas, p. 27, pls. 145, 146. - - - LETTER—No. 35. - -St. Louis, p. 29.—Loss of Indian curiosities, &c.—Governor Clarke, p. - 30. - - - LETTER—No. 36. - -Pensacola, Florida—Perdido, p. 32.—Pine woods of Florida, p. 33, pl. - 147.—Santa Rosa Island, p. 33, pl. 148.—Prophecy, p. 34.—Start for - Camanchee country, p. 35. - - - LETTER—No. 37. - -Transit up the Arkansas river, p. 36.—Fort Gibson, 1st regiment United - States’ Dragoons reviewed, p. 38.—Equipping and starting of Dragoons - for the Camanchee country, p. 38, 39. - - - LETTER—No. 38. - -Fort Gibson, p. 40.—Osages, p. 41.—Portraits of Osages, p. 41, pls. - 150, 151, 152, 3, 4, 5, 6.—Former and present condition of, p. 43, - 44.—Start for Camanchees and Pawnee Picts, p. 44. - - - LETTER—No. 39. - -Mouth of the False Washita and Red River, p. 45.—Beautiful prairie - country, p. 45.—Arkansas grapes.—Plums.—Wild roses, currants, - gooseberries, prickly pears, &c. p. 46.—Buffalo chase, p. 46.—Murder - of Judge Martin and family, p. 47. - - - LETTER—No. 40. - -Sickness at the Mouth of False Washita—one-half of the regiment start - for the Camanchees, under command of Col. Dodge, p. 49.—Sickness of - General Leavenworth, and cause of, p. 50.—Another buffalo hunt, p. 51. - - - LETTER—No. 41. - -Great Camanchee village, Texas, p. 53.—A stampedo, p. 53.—Meeting - a Camanchee war party, and mode of approaching them, p. 55, pl. - 157.—They turn about and escort the Dragoons to their village, - p. 56.—Immense herds of buffaloes, p. 56.—Buffaloes breaking - through the ranks of the Dragoon regiment, p. 57, pl. 158.—Wild - horses—sagacity of—wild horses at play, p. 57, pl. 160.—Joe Chadwick - and I “_creasing_” a wild horse, p. 58.—Taking the wild horse with - laso, and “breaking down,” p. 58, pls. 161, 162.—Chain of the Rocky - Mountain, p. 60.—Approach to the Camanchee village, p. 61, pl. - 163.—Immense number of Camanchee horses—prices of—Capt. Duncan’s - purchase, p. 62, 63. - - - LETTER—No. 42. - -Description of the Camanchee village, and view of, p. 64, pl. - 164.—Painting a family group, p. 165.—Camanchees moving, p. 64, - pl. 166.—Wonderful feats of riding, p. 65, pl. 167.—Portraits of - Camanchee chiefs, p. 67, pls. 168, 169, 170, 171, 172.—Estimates of - the Camanchees, p. 68.—Pawnee Picts, Kiowas, and Wicos, p. 69. - - - LETTER—No. 43. - -The regiment advance towards the Pawnee village—Description and - view of the Pawnee village, p. 70, pl. 173.—Council in the Pawnee - village—Recovery of the son of Judge Martin, and the presentation of - the three Pawnee and Kiowa women to their own people, p. 71.—Return - of the regiment to the Camanchee village, p. 72.—Pawnee Picts, - portraits of, p. 73, pls. 174, 175, 176, 177.—Kiowas, p. 74, pls. - 178, 179, 180, 181.—Wicos, portraits of, p. 75, pl. 182. - - - LETTER—No. 44. - -Camp Canadian—Immense herds of buffaloes—Great slaughter of - them—Extraordinary sickness of the command, p. 76.—Suffering from - impure water—sickness of the men, p. 77.—Horned frogs—Curious - adventure in catching them, p. 78.—Death of General Leavenworth and - Lieutenant M‘Clure, p. 78. - - - LETTER—No. 45. - -Return to Fort Gibson—Severe and fatal sickness at that place—Death - of Lieutenant West, p. 80.—Death of the Prussian Botanist and his - servant, p. 81.—Indian Council at Fort Gibson, p. 82.—Outfits of - trading-parties to the Camanchees—Probable consequences of, p. - 83.—Curious minerals and fossil shells collected and thrown away, - p. 85.—Mountain ridges of fossil shells, of iron and gypsum, p. - 86.—Saltpetre and salt, p. 86. - - - LETTER—No. 46. - -Alton, on the Mississippi—Captain Wharton—His sickness at Fort Gibson, - p. 87.—The Author starting alone for St. Louis, a distance of 500 - miles across the prairies—His outfit, p. 88.—The Author and his horse - “Charley” encamped on a level prairie, p. 89, pl. 184.—Singular freak - and attachment of the Author’s horse, p. 90.—A beautiful valley - in the prairies, p. 91.—An Indian’s estimation of a newspaper, p. - 92.—Riqua’s village of Osages—Meeting Captain Wharton at the Kickapoo - prairie, p. 93.—Difficulty of swimming rivers—Crossing the Osage, p. - 94.—Boonville on the Missouri—Author reaches Alton, and starts for - Florida, p. 95. - - - LETTER—No. 47. - -Trip to Florida and Texas, and back to St. Louis, p. 97.—Kickapoos, - portraits of, p. 98, pls. 185, 186.—Weas, portraits of, p. 99, - pls. 187, 188.—Potawatomies, portraits of, p. 100, pls. 189, - 190.—Kaskaskias, portraits of, p. 100, pls. 191, 192.—Peorias, - portraits of, p. 101, pls. 193, 194.—Piankeshaws, p. 101, pls. 195, - 196.—Delawares, p. 101, pls. 197, 198.—Moheconneuhs, or Mohegans, p. - 103, pls. 199, 200.—Oneidas, p. 103, pl. 201.—Tuskaroras, p. 103, - pl. 202.—Senecas, p. 104, pls. 203, 204, 205.—Iroquois p. 106, pl. - 206. - - - LETTER—No. 48. - -Flatheads, Nez Percés, p. 108, pls. 207, 208.—Flathead mission across - the Rocky Mountains to St. Louis—Mission of the Reverends Messrs. - Lee and Spalding beyond the Rocky Mountains, p. 109.—Chinooks, - portraits, p. 110, pls. 209, 210.—Process of flattening the head—and - cradle, p. 111, pl. 210½.—Flathead skulls, p. 111.—Similar custom - of Choctaws—Choctaw tradition, p. 112.—Curious manufactures of the - Chinooks—Klick-a-tacks—Chuhaylas, and Na-as Indians, p. 113, pl. - 210½.—Character and disposition of the Indians on the Columbia, p. - 114. - - - LETTER—No. 49. - -Shawanos, p. 115, pls. 211, 212, 213, 214.—Shawnee prophet and his - transactions, p. 117.—Cherokees, portraits of, p. 119, pls. 215, 216, - 217, 218.—Creeks, portraits of, p. 122, pls. 219, 220.—Choctaws, - portraits of, p. 122, pls. 221, 222.—Ball-play, p. 124, in plates - 224, 225, 226.—A distinguished ball-player, pl. 223.—Eagle-dance, - p. 126, pl. 227.—Tradition of the Deluge—Of a future state, p. - 127.—Origin of the Craw-fish band, p. 128. - - - LETTER—No. 50. - -Fort Snelling, near the Fall of St. Anthony—Description of the - Upper Mississippi, p. 129, 130.—View on the Upper Mississippi and - “Dubuque’s Grave,” p. 130, pls. 128, 129.—Fall of St. Anthony, p. - 131, pl. 230.—Fort Snelling, p. 131, pl. 231.—A Sioux cradle, and - modes of carrying their children, p. 132, pl. 232.—Mourning cradle, - same plate—Sioux portraits, p. 134, pls. 233, 234, 235, 236. - - - LETTER—No. 51. - -Fourth of July at the Fall of St. Anthony, and amusements, p. - 135–6.—Dog dance of the Sioux, p. 136, pl. 237.—Chippeway village, - p. 137, pl. 238.—Chippeways making the portage around the Fall - of St. Anthony, p. 138, pl. 239.—Chippeway bark canoes—Mandan - canoes of skins—Sioux canoes—Sioux and Chippeway snow-shoes, p. - 138, pl. 240.—Portraits of Chippeways, p. 139, pls. 241, 242, 244, - 245.—Snow-shoe dance, p. 139, pl. 243. - - - LETTER—No. 52. - -The Author descending the Mississippi in a bark canoe—Shot at by - Sioux Indians, p. 141.—Lake Pepin and “Lover’s Leap,” p. 143, pl. - 248.—Pike’s Tent, and Cap au’l’ail, p. 143, pls. 249, 250.—“Cornice - Rocks,” p. 144, pl. 251.—Prairie du Chien, p. 144, pl. 253.—Ball-play - of the women, p. 145, pl. 252.—Winnebagoes, portraits of, p. 146, - pls. 254, 255, 256.—Menomonies, portraits of, p. 147, pls. 258, 259, - 260, 261, 262, 263.—Dubuque—Lockwood’s cave, p. 148.—Camp des Moines, - and visit to Ke-o-kuk’s village, p. 149. - - - LETTER—No. 53. - -The Author and his bark canoe sunk in the Des Moine’s Rapids, p. - 151.—The Author left on Mascotin Island, p. 153.—Death of Joe - Chadwick—The “West,” not the “_Far_ West,” p. 155.—Author’s - contemplations on the probable future condition of the Great Valley - of the Mississippi, p. 156–159. - - - LETTER—No. 54. - -Côteau des Prairies, p. 160.—Mackinaw and Sault de St. Mary’s, p. 161, - pls. 264, 265.—Catching white fish—Canoe race, p. 162, pls. 266, - 267.—Chippeways, portraits of, p. 162, pls. 268, 269.—Voyage up - the Fox River, p. 162.—Voyage down the Ouisconsin in bark canoe, - p. 163.—Red Pipe Stone Quarry, on the Côteau des Prairies, p. 164, - pl. 270.—Indian traditions relative to the Red Pipe Stone, p. 168, - 169, 170.—The “Leaping Rock,” p. 170.—The Author and his companion - stopped by the Sioux, on their way, and objections raised by the - Sioux, p. 172, 173, 174, 175.—British medals amongst the Sioux, p. - 173.—Mons. La Fromboise, kind reception, p. 176.—Encampment at the - Pipe Stone Quarry, p. 177.—Ba’tiste’s “Story of the Medicine Bag,” p. - 178.—“Story of the Dog,” _prelude to_, p. 180.—Leaving the Mandans in - canoe, p. 181.—Passing the Riccarees in the night, p. 182.—Encamping - on the side of a clay-bluff, in a thunderstorm, p. 183. - - - LETTER—No. 55. - -“Story of the Dog” told, p. 188 to 194.—Story of Wi-jun-jon, (the - pigeon’s egg head,) p. 194 to 200.—Further account of the Red Pipe - Stone Quarry, and the Author’s approach to it, p. 201.—Boulders of - the Prairies, p. 203.—Chemical analysis of the Red Pipe Stone, p. 206 - - - LETTER—No. 56. - -Author’s return from the Côteau des Prairies—“Laque du Cygne,” p. - 207, pl. 276.—Sioux taking Muskrats, pl. 277, same page.—Gathering - wild rice, p. 208, pl. 278.—View on St. Peters river, p. 208, pl. - 279.—The Author and his companion embark in a log canoe at “Traverse - de Sioux”—Arrive at Fall of St. Anthony, p. 208.—Lake Pepin—Prairie - du Chien—Cassville—Rock Island, p. 209.—Sac and Fox Indians, - portraits of, p. 210, pls. 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, - 289.—Ke-o-kuk on horseback, p. 212, pl. 290.—Slave-dance, p. 213, pl. - 291.—“Smoking horses,” p. 213, pl. 292.—Begging-dance, p. 214, pl. - 293.—Sailing in canoes—Discovery-dance—Dance to the Berdashe, p. 214, - pls. 294, 295, 296.—Dance to the medicine of the brave, p. 215, pl. - 297.—Treaty with Sacs and Foxes—Stipulations of, p. 215, and 216. - - - LETTER—No. 57. - -Fort Moultrie.—Seminolees, p. 218.—Florida war—Prisoners - of war—Os-ce-o-la, p. 219. pl. 298.—Cloud, King - Phillip—Co-ee-ha-jo—Creek Billy, Mick-e-no-pah, p. 220, pls. 299 to - 305.—Death of Os-ce-o-la, p. 221. - - - LETTER—No. 58. - -North Western Frontier—General remarks on, p. 223.—General appearance - and habits of the North American Indians, p. 225 to 230.—Jewish - customs and Jewish resemblances, p. 232, 233.—Probable origin of the - Indians, p. 234.—Languages, p. 236.—Government, p. 239.—Cruelties - of punishments, p. 240.—Indian queries on white man’s modes, p. - 241.—Modes of war and peace, p. 242.—Pipe of peace dance, p. - 242.—Religion, p. 242–3.—Picture writing, songs and totems, p. - 246, pls. 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311.—Policy of removing the - Indians, p. 249.—Trade and small-pox, the principal destroyers of - the Indian tribes, p. 250.—Murder of the Root Diggers and Riccarees, - 252.—Concluding remarks, p. 254 to 256. - - - APPENDIX A. - -Account of the destruction of the Mandans, p. 257.—Author’s reasons for - believing them to have perpetuated the remains of the Welsh Colony - established by Prince Madoc. - - - APPENDIX B. - -Vocabularies of several different Indian languages, shewing their - dissimilarity, p. 262. - - - APPENDIX C. - -Comparison of the Indians’ _original_ and _secondary_ character, p. 266. - - - - - LETTERS AND NOTES - ON THE - NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. - - - LETTER—No. 32. - - FORT LEAVENWORTH, _LOWER MISSOURI_. - - -The readers, I presume, will have felt some anxiety for me and the -fate of my little craft, after the close of my last Letter; and I have -the very great satisfaction of announcing to them that we escaped -_snags_ and _sawyers_, and every other danger, and arrived here safe -from the Upper Missouri, where my last letters were dated. We, (that -is, Ba’tiste, Bogard and I,) are comfortably quartered for awhile, in -the barracks of this hospitable Cantonment, which is now the extreme -Western military post on the frontier, and under the command of Colonel -Davenport, a gentleman of great urbanity of manners, with a Roman -head and a Grecian heart, restrained and tempered by the charms of an -American lady, who has elegantly pioneered the graces of civilized -refinements into these uncivilized regions. - -This Cantonment, which is beautifully situated on the west bank of the -Missouri River, and six hundred miles above its mouth, was constructed -some years since by General Leavenworth, from whom it has taken its -name. Its location is very beautiful, and so is the country around -it. It is the concentration point of a number of hostile tribes in -the vicinity, and has its influence in restraining their warlike -propensities. - -There is generally a regiment of men stationed here, for the purpose of -holding the Indians in check, and of preserving the peace amongst the -hostile tribes. I shall visit several tribes in this vicinity, and most -assuredly give you some further account of them, as fast as I get it. - -Since the date of my last epistles, I succeeded in descending the river -to this place, in my little canoe, with my two men at the oars, and -myself at the helm, steering its course the whole way amongst snags and -sand-bars. - -Before I give further account of this downward voyage, however, I -must recur back for a few moments, to the Teton River, from whence I -started, and from whence my last epistles were written, to record a -few more incidents which I then overlooked in my note-book. Whilst -painting my portraits amongst the Sioux, as I have described, I got the -portrait of a noble Shienne chief, by the name of Nee-hee-o-ee-woo-tis, -the wolf on the hill (+plate+ 115). The chief of a party of that -tribe, on a friendly visit to the Sioux, and the portrait also of a -woman, Tis-see-woo-na-tis (she who bathes her knees, +plate+ 116). The -Shiennes are a small tribe of about 3000 in numbers, living neighbours -to the Sioux, on the west of them, and between the Black Hills and the -Rocky Mountains. There is no finer race of men than these in North -America, and none superior in stature, excepting the Osages; scarcely -a man in the tribe, full grown, who is less than six feet in height. -The Shiennes are undoubtedly the richest in horses of any tribe on the -Continent, living in a country as they do, where the greatest herds -of wild horses are grazing on the prairies, which they catch in great -numbers and vend to the Sioux, Mandans and other tribes, as well as to -the Fur Traders. - -These people are the most desperate set of horsemen, and warriors also, -having carried on almost unceasing wars with the Pawnees and Blackfeet, -“time out of mind.” The chief represented in the picture was clothed in -a handsome dress of deer skins, very neatly garnished with broad bands -of porcupine quill-work down the sleeves of his shirt and his leggings, -and all the way fringed with scalp-locks. His hair was very profuse, -and flowing over his shoulders; and in his hand he held a beautiful -Sioux pipe, which had just been presented to him by Mr. M‘Kenzie, the -Trader. This was one of the finest looking and most dignified men that -I have met in the Indian country; and from the account given of him -by the Traders a man of honour and strictest integrity. The woman was -comely, and beautifully dressed; her dress of the mountain-sheep skins, -tastefully ornamented with quills and beads, and her hair plaited in -large braids, that hung down on her breast. - -After I had painted these and many more, whom I have not time at -present to name, I painted the portrait of a celebrated warrior of -the Sioux, by the name of Mah-to-chee-ga (the little bear), who was -unfortunately slain in a few moments after the picture was done, by -one of his own tribe; and which was very near costing me my life for -having painted a side view of his face, leaving one-half of it out of -the picture, which had been the cause of the affray; and supposed by -the whole tribe to have been intentionally left out by me, as “good for -nothing.” This was the last picture that I painted amongst the Sioux, -and the last, undoubtedly, that I ever shall paint in that place. So -tremendous and so alarming was the excitement about it, that my brushes -were instantly put away, and I embarked the next day on the steamer for -the sources of the Missouri, and was glad to get underweigh. - -The man who slew this noble warrior was a troublesome fellow of the -same tribe, by the name of Shon-ka (the dog). A “hue and cry” has been -on his track for several months; and my life having been repeatedly -threatened during my absence up the river, I shall defer telling -the whole of this most extraordinary affair, until I see that my own -scalp is safe, and I am successfully out of the country. A few weeks or -months will decide how many are to fall victims to the vengeance of the -relatives of this murdered brave: and if I outlive the affair, I shall -certainly give some further account of it.[1] - -[Illustration: 115] - -[Illustration: 116] - -My voyage from the mouth of the Teton River to this place has been -the most rugged, yet the most delightful, of my whole Tour. Our -canoe was generally landed at night on the point of some projecting -barren sand-bar, where we straightened our limbs on our buffalo -robes, secure from the annoyance of musquitoes, and out of the walks -of Indians and grizzly bears. In addition to the opportunity which -this descending Tour has afforded me, of visiting all the tribes of -Indians on the river, and leisurely filling my portfolio with the -beautiful scenery which its shores present—the sportsman’s fever was -roused and satisfied; the swan, ducks, geese, and pelicans—the deer, -antelope, elk, and buffaloes, were “_stretched_” by our rifles; and -some times—“pull boys! pull!! a war party! for your lives pull! or we -are gone!” - -I often landed my skiff, and mounted the green carpeted bluffs, whose -soft grassy tops, invited me to recline, where I was at once lost in -contemplation. Soul melting scenery that was about me! A place where -the mind could think volumes; but the tongue must be silent that -would _speak_, and the hand palsied that would _write_. A place where -a Divine would confess that he never had fancied Paradise—where the -painter’s palette would lose its beautiful tints—the blood-stirring -notes of eloquence would die in their utterance—and even the soft -tones of sweet music would scarcely preserve a spark to light the -soul again that had passed this sweet delirium. I mean the prairie, -whose enamelled plains that lie beneath me, in distance soften into -sweetness, like an essence; whose thousand thousand velvet-covered -hills, (surely never formed by chance, but grouped in one of Nature’s -sportive moods)—tossing and leaping down with steep or graceful -declivities to the river’s edge, as if to grace its pictured shores, -and make it “a thing to look upon.” I mean the prairie at _sun-set_; -when the green hill-tops are turned into gold—and their long shadows of -melancholy are thrown over the valleys—when all the breathings of day -are hushed, and nought but the soft notes of the retiring dove can be -heard; or the still softer and more plaintive notes of the wolf, who -sneaks through these scenes of enchantment, and mournfully how—l——s, as -if lonesome, and lost in the too beautiful quiet and stillness about -him. I mean _this_ prairie; where Heaven sheds its purest light, and -lends its richest tints—_this round-topp’d bluff_, where the foot -treads soft and light—whose steep sides, and lofty head, rear me to -the skies, overlooking yonder pictured vale of beauty—this solitary -_cedar-post_, which tells a tale of grief—grief that was keenly felt, -and tenderly, but long since softened in the march of time and lost. -Oh, sad and tear-starting contemplation! sole tenant of this stately -mound, how solitary thy habitation! here Heaven wrested from thee thy -ambition, and made thee sleeping monarch of this land of silence. - -Stranger! oh, how the mystic web of sympathy links my soul to thee -and thy afflictions! I knew thee not, but it was enough; thy tale was -told, and I a solitary wanderer through thy land, have stopped to drop -familiar tears upon thy grave. Pardon this gush from a stranger’s eyes, -for they are all that thou canst have in this strange land, where -friends and dear relations are not allowed to pluck a flower, and drop -a tear to freshen recollections of endearments past. - -Stranger! adieu. With streaming eyes I leave thee again, and thy -fairy land, to peaceful solitude. My pencil has faithfully traced thy -beautiful habitation; and long shall live in the world, and familiar, -the name of “_Floyd’s Grave_.” - -Readers, pardon this digression. I have seated myself down, not on a -prairie, but at my table, by a warm and cheering fire, with my journal -before me to cull from it a few pages, for your entertainment; and if -there are spots of loveliness and beauty, over which I have passed, and -whose images are occasionally beckoning me into digressions, you must -forgive me. - -Such is the spot I have just named, and some others, on to which I am -instantly transferred when I cast my eyes back upon the enamelled and -beautiful shores of the Upper Missouri; and I am constrained to step -aside and give ear to their breathings, when their soft images, and -cherished associations, so earnestly prompt me. “Floyd’s Grave” is a -name given to one of the most lovely and imposing mounds or bluffs on -the Missouri River, about twelve hundred miles above St. Louis, from -the melancholy fate of Serjeant Floyd, who was of Lewis and Clark’s -expedition, in 1806; who died on the way, and whose body was taken to -this beautiful hill, and buried in its top, where now stands a cedar -post, hearing the initials of his name (+plate+ 118). - -I landed my canoe in front of this grass-covered mound, and all hands -being fatigued, we encamped a couple of days at its base. I several -times ascended it and sat upon his grave, overgrown with grass and -the most delicate wild flowers, where I sat and contemplated the -solitude and stillness of this tenanted mound; and beheld from its -top, the windings infinite of the Missouri, and its thousand hills and -domes of green, vanishing into blue in distance, when nought but the -soft-breathing winds were heard, to break the stillness and quietude -of the scene. Where not the chirping of bird or sound of cricket, nor -soaring eagle’s scream, were internosed ’tween God and man; nor aught -to check man’s whole surrender of his soul to his Creator. I could -not _hunt_ upon this ground, but I roamed from hill-top to hill-top, -and culled wild flowers, and looked into the valley below me, both -up the river and down, and contemplated the thousand hills and dales -that are now carpeted with green, streaked as they _will_ be, with -the plough, and yellow with the harvest sheaf; spotted with lowing -kine—with houses and fences, and groups of hamlets and villas—and these -lovely hill-tops ringing with the giddy din and maze, or secret earnest -whispers of lovesick swains—of pristine simplicity and virtue—wholesome -and well-earned contentment and abundance—and again, of wealth and -refinements—of idleness and luxury—of vice and its deformities—of fire -and sword, and the vengeance of offended Heaven, wreaked in retributive -destruction!—and peace, and quiet, and loveliness, and silence, -dwelling _again_, over and through these scenes, and blending them into -futurity! - -[Illustration: 117] - -[Illustration: 118] - -Many such scenes there are, and thousands, on the Missouri shores. -My canoe has been stopped, and I have clambered up their grassy and -flower-decked sides; and sighed all alone, as I have carefully traced -and fastened them in colours on my canvass. - -This voyage in my little canoe, amid the thousand islands and -grass-covered bluffs that stud the shores of this mighty river, -afforded me infinite pleasure, mingled with pains and privations which -I never shall wish to forget. Gliding along from day to day, and tiring -our eyes on the varying landscapes that were continually opening to our -view, my merry _voyageurs_ were continually chaunting their cheerful -boat songs, and “every now and then,” taking up their unerring rifles -to bring down the stately elks or antelopes, which were often gazing at -us from the shores of the river. - -But a few miles from “Floyd’s Bluff” we landed our canoe, and spent -a day in the vicinity of the “_Black Bird’s Grave_.” This is a -celebrated point on the Missouri, and a sort of telegraphic place, -which all the travellers in these realms, both white and red, are in -the habit of visiting: the one to pay respect to the bones of one of -their distinguished leaders; and the others, to indulge their eyes -on the lovely landscape that spreads out to an almost illimitable -extent in every direction about it. This elevated bluff, which may -be distinguished for several leagues in distance (+plate+ 117), has -received the name of the “Black Bird’s Grave,” from the fact, that -a famous chief of the O-ma-haws, by the name of the Black Bird, was -buried on its top, at his own peculiar request; over whose grave a -cedar post was erected by his tribe some thirty years ago, which is -still standing. The O-ma-haw village was about sixty miles above this -place; and this very noted chief, who had been on a visit to Washington -City, in company with the Indian agent, died of the small-pox, near -this spot, on his return home. And, whilst dying, enjoined on his -warriors who were about him, this singular request, which was literally -complied with. He requested them to take his body down the river to -this his favourite haunt, and on the pinnacle of this towering bluff, -to bury him on the back of his favourite war-horse, which was to be -buried alive, under him, from whence he could see, as he said, “the -Frenchmen passing up and down the river in their boats.” He owned, -amongst many horses, a noble white steed that was led to the top -of the grass-covered hill; and, with great pomp and ceremony, in -presence of the whole nation, and several of the Fur Traders and the -Indian agent, he was placed astride of his horse’s back, with his bow -in his hand, and his shield and quiver slung—with his pipe and his -_medicine-bag_—with his supply of dried meat, and his tobacco-pouch -replenished to last him through his journey to the “beautiful hunting -grounds of the shades of his fathers”—with his flint and steel, and -his tinder, to light his pipes by the way. The scalps that he had -taken from his enemies’ heads, could be trophies for nobody else, and -were hung to the bridle of his horse—he was in full dress and fully -equipped; and on his head waved, to the last moment, his beautiful -head-dress of the war-eagle’s plumes. In this plight, and the last -funeral honours having been performed by the _medicine-men_, every -warrior of his band painted the palm and fingers of his right hand with -vermilion; which was stamped, and perfectly impressed on the milk-white -sides of his devoted horse. - -This all done, turfs were brought and placed around the feet and legs -of the horse, and gradually laid up to its sides; and at last, over the -back and head of the unsuspecting animal, and last of all, over the -head and even the eagle plumes of its valiant rider, where altogether -have smouldered and remained undisturbed to the present day. - -This mound which is covered with a green turf, and spotted with wild -flowers, with its cedar post in its centre, can easily be seen at the -distance of fifteen miles, by the _voyageur_, and forms for him a -familiar and useful land-mark. - -Whilst visiting this mound in company with Major Sanford, on our way up -the river, I discovered in a hole made in the mound, by a “ground hog” -or other animal, the skull of the horse; and by a little pains, also -came at the skull of the chief, which I carried to the river side, and -secreted till my return in my canoe, when I took it in, and brought -with me to this place, where I now have it, with others which I have -collected on my route. - -There have been some very surprising tales told of this man, which -will render him famous in history, whether they be truth or matters of -fiction. Of the many, one of the most current is, that he gained his -celebrity and authority by the most diabolical series of murders in his -own tribe; by administering arsenic (with which he had been supplied -by the Fur Traders) to such of his enemies as he wished to get rid -of—and even to others in his tribe whom he was willing to sacrifice, -merely to establish his superhuman powers, and the most servile dread -of the tribe, from the certainty with which his victims fell around -him, precisely at the times he saw fit to predict their death! It has -been said that he administered this potent drug, and to them unknown -_medicine_, to many of his friends as well as to foes; and by such an -inhuman and unparalleled depravity, succeeded in exercising the most -despotic and absolute authority in his tribe, until the time of his -death! - -This story may be true, and it may not. I cannot contradict it; and I -am sure the world will forgive me, if I say, I cannot believe it. If -it be true, two things are also true; the one, not much to the credit -of the Indian character; and the other, to the everlasting infamy of -the Fur Traders. If it be true, it furnishes an instance of Indian -depravity that I never have elsewhere heard of in my travels; and -carries the most conclusive proof of the incredible enormity of white -men’s dealings in this country; who, for some sinister purpose must -have introduced the poisonous drug into the country, and taught the -poor chief how to use it; whilst they were silent accessories to the -murders he was committing. This story is said to have been told by the -Fur Traders; and although I have not always the highest confidence in -their justice to the Indian, yet, I cannot for the honour of my own -species, believe them to be so depraved and so wicked, nor so weak, as -to reveal such iniquities of this chief, if they were true, which must -directly implicate themselves as accessories to his most wilful and -unprovoked murders. - -Such he has been heralded, however, to future ages, as a murderer—like -hundreds and thousands of others, as “horse thieves”—as “drunkards”—as -“rogues of the first order,” &c. &c.—by the historian who catches but -a glaring story, (and perhaps fabrication) of their lives, and has -no time nor disposition to enquire into and record their long and -brilliant list of virtues, which must be lost in the shade of infamy, -for want of an historian. - -I have learned much of this noble chieftain, and at a proper time shall -recount the modes of his civil and military life—how he exposed his -life, and shed his blood in rescuing the victims to horrid torture, -and abolished that savage custom in his tribe—-how he led on and -headed his brave warriors, against the Sacs and Foxes; and saved the -butchery of his women and children—how he received the Indian agent, -and entertained him in his hospitable wigwam, in his village—and how he -conducted and acquitted himself on his embassy to the civilized world. - -So much I will take pains to say, of a man whom I never saw, because -other historians have taken equal pains just to mention his name, and a -solitary (and doubtful) act of his life, as they have said of hundreds -of others, for the purpose of consigning him to infamy. - -How much more kind would it have been for the historian, who never saw -him, to have enumerated with this, other characteristic actions of his -life (for the verdict of the world); or to have allowed, in charity, -his bones and his name to have slept in silence, instead of calling -them up from the grave, to thrust a dagger through them, and throw them -back again. - -Book-making now-a-days, is done for money-making; and he who takes the -Indian for his theme, and cannot go and see him, finds a poverty in -his matter that naturally begets error, by grasping at every little -tale that is brought or fabricated by their enemies. Such books are -standards, because they are made for white man’s reading only; and -herald the character of a people who never can disprove them. They -answer the purpose for which they are written; and the poor Indian who -has no redress, stands stigmatized and branded, as a murderous wretch -and beast. - -If the system of book-making and newspaper printing were in operation -in the Indian country awhile, to herald the iniquities and horrible -barbarities of white men in these Western regions, which now are -sure to be overlooked; I venture to say, that chapters would soon be -printed, which would sicken the reader to his heart, and set up the -Indian, a fair and tolerable man. - -There is no more beautiful prairie country in the world, than that -which is to be seen in this vicinity. In looking back from this bluff, -towards the West, there is, to an almost boundless extent, one of -the most beautiful scenes imaginable. The surface of the country is -gracefully and slightly undulating, like the swells of the retiring -ocean after a heavy storm. And everywhere covered with a beautiful -green turf, and with occasional patches and clusters of trees. The soil -in this region is also rich, and capable of making one of the most -beautiful and productive countries in the world. - -Ba’tiste and Bogard used their rifles to some effect during the day -that we loitered here, and gathered great quantities of delicious -grapes. From this lovely spot we embarked the next morning, and glided -through constantly changing scenes of beauty, until we landed our canoe -at the base of a beautiful series of grass-covered bluffs, which, like -thousands and thousands of others on the banks of this river, are -designated by no name, that I know of; and I therefore introduce them -as fair specimens of the _grassy bluffs_ of the Missouri. - -My canoe was landed at noon, at the base of these picturesque hills—and -there rested till the next morning. As soon as we were ashore, I -scrambled to their summits, and beheld, even to a line, what the reader -has before him in +plates+ 119 and 120. I took my easel, and canvass -and brushes, to the top of the bluff, and painted the two views from -the same spot; the one looking up, and the other down the river. The -reader, by imagining these hills to be five or six hundred feet high, -and every foot of them, as far as they can be discovered in distance, -covered with a vivid green turf, whilst the sun is gilding one side, -and throwing a cool shadow on the other, will be enabled to form -something like an adequate idea of the shores of the Missouri. From -this enchanting spot there was nothing to arrest the eye from ranging -over its waters for the distance of twenty or thirty miles, where it -quietly glides between its barriers, formed of thousands of green and -gracefully sloping hills, with its rich and alluvial meadows, and -woodlands—and its hundred islands, covered with stately cotton-wood. - -In these two views, the reader has a fair account of the general -character of the Upper Missouri; and by turning back to +plate 39, Vol. -I.+, which I have already described, he will at once see the process by -which this wonderful formation has been produced. In that plate will be -seen the manner in which the rains are wearing down the clay-bluffs, -cutting gullies or sluices behind them, and leaving them at last to -stand out in relief, in these rounded and graceful forms, until in -time they get seeded over, and nourish a growth of green grass on their -sides, which forms a turf, and protects their surface, preserving them -for centuries, in the forms that are here seen. The tops of the highest -of these bluffs rise nearly up to the summit level of the prairies, -which is found as soon as one travels a mile or so from the river, -amongst these picturesque groups, and comes out at their top; from -whence the country goes off to the East and the West, with an almost -perfectly level surface. - -[Illustration: 119] - -[Illustration: 120] - -These two views were taken about thirty miles above the village of -the Puncahs, and five miles above “the Tower;” the name given by the -travellers through the country, to a high and remarkable clay bluff, -rising to the height of some hundreds of feet from the water, and -having in distance, the castellated appearance of a fortification. - -My canoe was not unmoored from the shores of this lovely spot for two -days, except for the purpose of crossing the river; which I several -times did, to ascend and examine the hills on the opposite side. I had -Ba’tiste and Bogard with me on the tops of these green carpeted bluffs, -and tried in vain to make them see the beauty of scenes that were -about us. They dropped asleep, and I strolled and contemplated alone; -clambering “_up one hill_” and sliding or running “_down another_,” -with no other living being in sight, save now and then a bristling -wolf, which, from my approach, was reluctantly retreating from his -shady lair—or sneaking behind me and smelling on my track. - -Whilst strolling about on the western bank of the river at this place, -I found the ancient site of an Indian village, which from the character -of the marks, I am sure was once the residence of the Mandans. I said -in a former Letter, when speaking of the Mandans, that within the -recollection of some of their oldest men, they lived some sixty or -eighty miles down the river from the place of their present residence; -and that they then lived in nine villages. On my way down, I became -fully convinced of the fact; having landed my canoe, and examined the -ground where the foundation of every wigwam can yet be distinctly -seen. At that time, they must have been much more numerous than at -present, from the many marks they have left, as well as from their own -representations. - -The Mandans have a peculiar way of building their wigwams, by digging -down a couple of feet in the earth, and there fixing the ends of the -poles which form the walls of their houses. There are other marks, -such as their caches—and also their mode of depositing their dead on -scaffolds—and of preserving the skulls in circles on the prairies; -which peculiar customs I have before described, and most of which -are distinctly to be recognized in each of these places, as well as -in several similar remains which I have met with on the banks of the -river, between here and the Mandans; which fully convince me, that -they have formerly occupied the lower parts of the Missouri, and have -gradually made their way quite through the heart of the great Sioux -country; and having been well fortified in all their locations, as in -their present one, by a regular stockade and ditch; they have been -able successfully to resist the continual assaults of the Sioux, that -numerous tribe, who have been, and still are, endeavouring to effect -their entire destruction. I have examined, at least fifteen or twenty -of their ancient locations on the banks of this river, and can easily -discover the regular differences in the ages of these antiquities; and -around them all I have found numerous bits of their broken pottery, -corresponding with that which they are now manufacturing in great -abundance; and which is certainly made by no other tribe in these -regions. These evidences, and others which I shall not take the time to -mention in this place, go a great way in my mind towards strengthening -the possibility of their having moved from the Ohio river, and of -their being a remnant of the followers of Madoc. I have much further -to trace them yet, however, and shall certainly have more to say on so -interesting a subject in future. - -Almost every mile I have advanced on the banks of this river, I have -met evidences and marks of Indians in some form or other; and they have -generally been those of the Sioux, who occupy and own the greater part -of this immense region of country. In the latter part of my voyage, -however, and of which I have been speaking in the former part of this -Letter, I met the ancient sites of the O-ma-ha and Ot-to towns, which -are easily detected when they are met. In +plate+ 121 (letter +a+), -is seen the usual mode of the Omahas, of depositing their dead in the -crotches and on the branches of trees, enveloped in skins, and never -without a wooden dish hanging by the head of the corpse; probably for -the purpose of enabling it to dip up water to quench its thirst on the -long and tedious journey, which they generally expect to enter on after -death. These corpses are so frequent along the banks of the river, that -in some places a dozen or more of them may be seen at one view. - -Letter +b+ in the same plate, shews the customs of the Sioux, which -are found in endless numbers on the river; and in fact, through every -part of this country. The wigwams of these people are only moveable -tents, and leave but a temporary mark to be discovered. Their burials, -however, are peculiar and lasting remains, which can be long detected. -They often deposit their dead on trees, and on scaffolds; but more -generally bury in the tops of bluffs, or near their villages; when they -often split out staves and drive in the ground around the grave, to -protect it from the trespass of dogs or wild animals. - -Letter +c+ (same plate), shews the character of Mandan remains, that -are met with in numerous places on the river. Their mode of resting -their dead upon scaffolds is not so peculiar to them as positively to -distinguish them from Sioux, who sometimes bury in the same way; but -the excavations for their earth-covered wigwams, which I have said -are two feet deep in the ground, with the ends of the decayed timbers -remaining in them, are peculiar and conclusive evidence of their -being of Mandan construction; and the custom of leaving the skulls -bleached upon the ground in circles (as I have formerly described in -+plate 48, Vol. I.+), instead of burying them as the other tribes do, -forms also a strong evidence of the fact that they are Mandan remains. - -[Illustration: 121] - -[Illustration: 122] - -In most of these sites of their ancient towns, however, I have been -unable to find about their burial places, these characteristic deposits -of the skulls; from which I conclude, that whenever they deliberately -moved to a different region, they buried the skulls out of respect to -the dead. I found, just back of one of these sites of their ancient -towns, however, and at least 500 miles below where they now live, the -same arrangement of skulls as that I described in +plate+ 48. They had -laid so long, however, exposed to the weather, that they were reduced -almost to a powder, except the teeth, which mostly seemed polished and -sound as ever. It seems that no human hands had dared to meddle with -the dead; and that even their enemies had respected them; for every -one, and there were at least two hundred in one circle, had mouldered -to chalk, in its exact relative position, as they had been placed in a -circle. In this case, I am of opinion that the village was besieged by -the Sioux, and entirely destroyed; or that the Mandans were driven off -without the power to stop and bury the bones of their dead. - -_Belle Vue_ (+plate+ 122) is a lovely scene on the West bank of the -river, about nine miles above the mouth of the Platte, and is the -agency of Major Dougherty, one of the oldest and most effective agents -on our frontiers. This spot is, as I said, lovely in itself; but doubly -so to the eye of the weather-beaten _voyageur_ from the sources of -the Missouri, who steers his canoe in, to the shore, as I did, and -soon finds himself a welcome guest at the comfortable board of the -Major, with a table again to eat from—and that (not “_groaning_,” but) -_standing_ under the comfortable weight of meat and vegetable luxuries, -products of the labour of cultivating man. It was a pleasure to see -again, in this great wilderness, a civilized habitation; and still more -pleasant to find it surrounded with corn-fields, and potatoes, with -numerous fruit-trees, bending under the weight of their fruit—with -pigs and poultry, and kine; and what was best of all, to see the kind -and benevolent face, that never looked anything but welcome to the -half-starved guests, who throw themselves upon him from the North, from -the South, the East, or the West. - -At this place I was in the country of the Pawnees, a numerous tribe, -whose villages are on the Platte river, and of whom I shall say more -anon. Major Dougherty has been for many years the agent for this -hostile tribe; and by his familiar knowledge of the Indian character, -and his strict honesty and integrity, he has been able to effect a -friendly intercourse with them, and also to attract the applause and -highest confidence of the world, as well as of the authorities who sent -him there. - -An hundred miles above this, I passed a curious feature, called the -“Square Hills” (+plate+ 123). I landed my canoe, and went ashore, and -to their tops, to examine them. Though they appeared to be near the -river, I found it half a day’s journey to travel to and from them; they -being several miles from the river. On ascending them I found them to -be two or three hundred feet high, and rising on their sides at an -angle of 45 degrees; and on their tops, in some places, for half a -mile in length, perfectly level, with a green turf, and corresponding -exactly with the tabular hills spoken of above the Mandans, in +plate -39, Vol. I.+ I therein said, that I should visit these hills on my way -down the river; and I am fully convinced, from close examination, that -they are a part of the same original superstratum, which I therein -described, though seven or eight hundred miles separated from them. -They agree exactly in character, and also in the materials of which -they are composed; and I believe, that some unaccountable gorge of -waters has swept away the intervening earth, leaving these solitary -and isolated, though incontrovertible evidences, that the summit level -of all this great valley has at one time been where the level surface -of these hills now is, two or three hundred feet above what is now -generally denominated the summit level. - -The mouth of the Platte (+plate+ 124), is a beautiful scene, and no -doubt will be the site of a large and flourishing town, soon after -Indian titles shall have been extinguished to the lands in these -regions, which will be done within a very few years. The Platte is -a long and powerful stream, pouring in from the Rocky Mountains and -joining with the Missouri at this place. - -In this voyage, as in all others that I have performed, I kept my -journal, but I have not room, it will be seen, to insert more than an -occasional extract from it for my present purpose. In this voyage, -Ba’tiste and Bogard were my constant companions; and we all had our -rifles, and used them often. We often went ashore amongst the herds of -buffaloes, and were obliged to do so for our daily food. We lived the -whole way on buffaloes’ flesh and venison—we had no bread; but laid in -a good stock of coffee and sugar. These, however, from an unforeseen -accident availed us but little; as on the second or third day of our -voyage, after we had taken our coffee on the shore, and Ba’tiste and -Bogard had gone in pursuit of a herd of buffaloes, I took it in my -head to have an extra very fine dish of coffee to myself, as the fire -was fine. For this purpose, I added more coffee-grounds to the pot, -and placed it on the fire, which I sat watching, when I saw a fine -buffalo cow wending her way leisurely over the hills, but a little -distance from me, for whom I started at once, with my rifle trailed -in my hand; and after creeping, and running, and heading, and all -that, for half an hour, without getting a shot at her; I came back to -the encampment, where I found my two men with meat enough, but in the -most uncontroulable rage, for my coffee had all boiled out, and the -coffee-pot was melted to pieces! - -This was truly a deplorable accident, and one that could in no -effectual way be remedied. We afterwards botched up a mess or two of -it in our frying-pan, but to little purpose, and then abandoned it to -Bogard alone, who thankfully received the dry coffee-grounds and -sugar, at his meals, which he soon entirely demolished. - -[Illustration: 123] - -[Illustration: 124] - -We met immense numbers of buffaloes in the early part of our voyage and -used to land our canoe almost every hour in the day; and oftentimes all -together approach the unsuspecting herds, through some deep and hidden -ravine within a few rods of them, and at the word, “pull trigger,” each -of us bring down our victim (+plate+ 125). - -In one instance, near the mouth of White River, we met the most immense -herd crossing the Missouri River—and from an imprudence got our boat -into imminent danger amongst them, from which we were highly delighted -to make our escape. It was in the midst of the “running season,” and -we had heard the “roaring” (as it is called) of the herd, when we -were several miles from them. When we came in sight, we were actually -terrified at the immense numbers that were streaming down the green -hills on one side of the river, and galloping up and over the bluffs -on the other. The river was filled, and in parts blackened, with their -heads and horns, as they were swimming about, following up their -objects, and making desperate battle whilst they were swimming. - -I deemed it imprudent for our canoe to be dodging amongst them, -and ran it ashore for a few hours, where we laid, waiting for the -opportunity of seeing the river clear; but we waited in vain. Their -numbers, however, got somewhat diminished at last, and we pushed off, -and successfully made our way amongst them. From the immense numbers -that had passed the river at that place, they had torn down the prairie -bank of fifteen feet in height, so as to form a sort of road or -landing-place, where they all in succession clambered up. Many in their -turmoil had been wafted below this landing, and unable to regain it -against the swiftness of the current, had fastened themselves along in -crowds, hugging close to the high bank under which they were standing. -As we were drifting by these, and supposing ourselves out of danger, I -drew up my rifle and shot one of them in the head, which tumbled into -the water, and brought with him a hundred others, which plunged in, -and in a moment were swimming about our canoe, and placing it in great -danger (+plate+ 126). No attack was made upon us, and in the confusion -the poor beasts knew not, perhaps, the enemy that was amongst them; but -we were liable to be sunk by them, as they were furiously hooking and -climbing on to each other. I rose in my canoe, and by my gestures and -hallooing, kept them from coming in contact with us, until we were out -of their reach. - -This was one of the instances that I formerly spoke of, where thousands -and tens of thousands of these animals congregate in the _running -season_, and move about from East and West, or wherever accident or -circumstances may lead them. In this grand crusade, no one can know the -numbers that may have made the ford within a few days; nor in their -blinded fury in such scenes, would feeble man be much respected. - -During the remainder of that day we paddled onward, and passed many -of their carcasses floating on the current, or lodged on the heads of -islands and sand-bars. And, in the vicinity of, and not far below the -grand turmoil, we passed several that were mired in the quicksand near -the shores; some were standing fast and half immersed; whilst others -were nearly out of sight, and gasping for the last breath; others were -standing with all legs fast, and one half of their bodies above the -water, and their heads sunk under it, where they had evidently remained -several days; and flocks of ravens and crows were covering their backs, -and picking the flesh from their dead bodies. - -So much of the Upper Missouri and its modes, at present; though I have -much more in store for some future occasion. - -Fort Leavenworth, which is on the Lower Missouri, being below the mouth -of the Platte, is the nucleus of another neighbourhood of Indians, -amongst whom I am to commence my labours, and of whom I shall soon be -enabled to give some account. So, for the present, Adieu. - -[Illustration: 125] - -[Illustration: 126] - - [1] Some months after writing the above, and after I had arrived - safe in St. Louis, the news reached there that the Dog had been - overtaken and killed, and a brother of his also, and the affair - thus settled. The portraits are in Vol. II. (+plates+ 273, 274, and - 275), and the story there told. - - - - - LETTER—No. 33. - - FORT LEAVENWORTH, _LOWER MISSOURI_. - - -I mentioned in a former epistle, that this is the extreme outpost on -the Western Frontier, and built, like several others, in the heart of -the Indian country. There is no finer tract of lands in North America, -or, perhaps, in the world, than that vast space of prairie country, -which lies in the vicinity of this post, embracing it on all sides. -This garrison, like many others on the frontiers, is avowedly placed -here for the purpose of protecting our frontier inhabitants from the -incursions of Indians; and also for the purpose of preserving the peace -amongst the different hostile tribes, who seem continually to wage, and -glory in, their deadly wars. How far these feeble garrisons, which are -generally but half manned, have been, or will be, able to intimidate -and controul the warlike ardour of these restless and revengeful -spirits; or how far they will be able in desperate necessity, to -protect the lives and property of the honest pioneer, is yet to be -tested. - -They have doubtless been designed with the best views, to effect -the most humane objects, though I very much doubt the benefits that -are anticipated to flow from them, unless a more efficient number -of men are stationed in them than I have generally found; enough to -promise protection to the Indian, and then to _ensure_ it; instead of -promising, and leaving them to seek it in their own way at last, and -when they are least prepared to do it. - -When I speak of this post as being on the _Lower Missouri_, I do not -wish to convey the idea that I am down near the sea-coast, at the mouth -of the river, or near it; I only mean that I am on the lower part of -the Missouri, yet 600 miles above its junction with the Mississippi, -and near 2000 from the Gulf of Mexico, into which the Mississippi -discharges its waters. - -In this delightful Cantonment there are generally stationed six or -seven companies of infantry, and ten or fifteen officers; several -of whom have their wives and daughters with them, forming a very -pleasant little community, who are almost continually together in -social enjoyment of the peculiar amusements and pleasures of this -wild country. Of these pastimes they have many, such as riding on -horseback or in carriages over the beautiful green fields of the -prairies, picking strawberries and wild plums—deer chasing—grouse -shooting—horse-racing, and other amusements of the garrison, in which -they are almost constantly engaged; enjoying life to a very high -degree. - -In these delightful amusements, and with these pleasing companions, I -have been for a while participating with great satisfaction; I have -joined several times in the deer-hunts, and more frequently in grouse -shooting, which constitutes the principal amusement of this place. - -This delicious bird, which is found in great abundance in nearly all -the North American prairies, and most generally called the Prairie Hen, -is, from what I can learn, very much like the English grouse, or heath -hen, both in size, in colour, and in habits. They make their appearance -in these parts in the months of August and September, from the higher -latitudes, where they go in the early part of the summer, to raise -their broods. This is the season for the best sport amongst them; and -the whole garrison, in fact are almost subsisted on them at this time, -owing to the facility with which they are killed. - -I was lucky enough the other day, with one of the officers of the -garrison, to gain the enviable distinction of having brought in -together seventy-five of these fine birds, which we killed in one -afternoon; and although I am quite ashamed to confess the manner in -which we killed the greater part of them, I am not so professed a -sportsman as to induce me to conceal the fact. We had a fine pointer, -and had legitimately followed the sportsman’s style for a part of the -afternoon; but seeing the prairies on fire several miles ahead of us, -and the wind driving the fire gradually towards us, we found these -poor birds driven before its long line, which seemed to extend from -horizon to horizon, and they were flying in swarms or flocks that -would at times almost fill the air. They generally flew half a mile or -so, and lit down again in the grass, where they would sit until the -fire was close upon them, and then they would rise again. We observed -by watching their motions, that they lit in great numbers in every -solitary tree; and we placed ourselves near each of these trees in -turn, and shot them down as they settled in them; sometimes killing -five or six at a shot, by getting a range upon them. - -In this way we retreated for miles before the flames, in the midst of -the flocks, and keeping company with them where they were carried along -in advance of the fire, in accumulating numbers; many of which had been -driven along for many miles. We murdered the poor birds in this way, -until we had as many as we could well carry, and laid our course back -to the Fort, where we got much credit for our great shooting, and where -we were mutually pledged to keep the secret. - -The prairies burning form some of the most beautiful scenes that are to -be witnessed in this country, and also some of the most sublime. Every -acre of these vast prairies (being covered for hundreds and hundreds of -miles, with a crop of grass, which dies and dries in the fall) burns -over during the fall or early in the spring, leaving the ground of a -black and doleful colour. - -There are many modes by which the fire is communicated to them, both -by white men and by Indians—_par accident_; and yet many more where -it is voluntarily done for the purpose of getting a fresh crop of -grass, for the grazing of their horses, and also for easier travelling -during the next summer, when there will be no old grass to lie upon the -prairies, entangling the feet of man and horse, as they are passing -over them. - -Over the elevated lands and prairie bluffs, where the grass is thin -and short, the fire slowly creeps with a feeble flame, which one can -easily step over (+plate+ 127); where the wild animals often rest in -their lairs until the flames almost burn their noses, when they will -reluctantly rise, and leap over it, and trot off amongst the cinders, -where the fire has past and left the ground as black as jet. These -scenes at night become indescribably beautiful, when their flames are -seen at many miles distance, creeping over the sides and tops of the -bluffs, appearing to be sparkling and brilliant chains of liquid fire -(the hills being lost to the view), hanging suspended in graceful -festoons from the skies. - -But there is yet another character of burning prairies (+plate+ 128), -that requires another Letter, and a different pen to describe—the war, -or hell of fires! where the grass is seven or eight feet high, as is -often the case for many miles together, on the Missouri bottoms; and -the flames are driven forward by the hurricanes, which often sweep -over the vast prairies of this denuded country. There are many of -these meadows on the Missouri, the Platte, and the Arkansas, of many -miles in breadth, which are perfectly level, with a waving grass, so -high, that we are obliged to stand erect in our stirrups, in order to -look over its waving tops, as we are riding through it. The fire in -these, before such a wind, travels at an immense and frightful rate, -and often destroys, on their fleetest horses, parties of Indians, -who are so unlucky as to be overtaken by it; not that it travels as -fast as a horse at full speed, but that the high grass is filled with -wild pea-vines and other impediments, which render it necessary for -the rider to guide his horse in the zig-zag paths of the deers and -buffaloes, retarding his progress, until he is overtaken by the dense -column of smoke that is swept before the fire—alarming the horse, which -stops and stands terrified and immutable, till the burning grass which -is wafted in the wind, falls about him, kindling up in a moment a -thousand new fires, which are instantly wrapped in the swelling flood -of smoke that is moving on like a black thunder-cloud, rolling on the -earth, with its lightning’s glare, and its thunder rumbling as it goes. -* * * * * * * * When Ba’tiste, and Bogard, and I, and Patrick Raymond -(who like Bogard had been a free trapper in the Rocky Mountains), and -Pah-me-o-ne-qua (the red thunder), our guide back from a neighbouring -village, were jogging along on the summit of an elevated bluff, -overlooking an immense valley of high grass, through which we were -about to lay our course.—— * * * * * * * * * - -“Well, then, you say you have seen the prairies on fire?” Yes. “You -have seen the fire on the mountains, and beheld it feebly creeping over -the grassy hills of the North, where the toad and the timid snail were -pacing from its approach—all this you have seen, and who has not? But -who has seen the vivid lightnings, and heard the roaring thunder of -the rolling conflagration which sweeps over the _deep-clad_ prairies -of the West? Who has dashed, on his wild horse, through an ocean of -grass, with the raging tempest at his back, rolling over the land -its swelling waves of liquid fire?” What! “Aye, even so. Ask the red -savage of the wilds what is awful and sublime—Ask him where the Great -Spirit has mixed up all the elements of death, and if he does not blow -them over the land in a storm of fire? Ask him what foe he has met, -that regarded not his frightening yells, or his sinewy bow? Ask these -lords of the land, who vauntingly challenge the thunder and lightning -of Heaven—whether there is not one foe that travels over their land, -too swift for their feet, and too mighty for their strength—at whose -approach their stout hearts sicken, and their strong-armed courage -withers to nothing? Ask him _again_ (if he is sullen, and his eyes set -in their sockets)—‘Hush!————sh!————sh!’—(he will tell you, with a soul -too proud to confess—his head sunk on his breast, and his hand over his -mouth)—‘that’s _medicine_!’” * * * * * * * * * * * * - -I said to my comrades, as we were about to descend from the towering -bluffs into the prairie—“We will take that buffalo trail, where the -travelling herds have slashed down the high grass, and making for that -blue point, rising, as you can just discern, above this ocean of grass; -a good day’s work will bring us over this vast meadow before sunset.” -We entered the trail, and slowly progressed on our way, being obliged -to follow the winding paths of the buffaloes, for the grass was higher -than the backs of our horses. Soon after we entered, my Indian guide -dismounted slowly from his horse, and lying prostrate on the ground, -with his face in the dirt, he _cried_, and was talking to the Spirits -of the brave—“For,” said he, “over this beautiful plain dwells the -Spirit of fire! he rides in yonder cloud—his face blackens with rage -at the sound of the trampling hoofs—the _fire-bow_ is in his hand—he -draws it across the path of the Indian, and quicker than lightning, a -thousand flames rise to destroy him; such is the talk of my fathers, -and the ground is whitened with their bones. It was here,” said he, -“that the brave son of Wah-chee-ton, and the strong-armed warriors of -his band, just twelve moons since, licked the fire from the blazing -wand of that great magician. Their pointed spears were drawn upon the -backs of the treacherous Sioux, whose swifter-flying horses led them, -in vain, to the midst of this valley of death. A circular cloud sprang -up from the prairie around them! it was raised, and their doom was -fixed by the Spirit of fire! It was on this vast plain of _fire-grass_ -that waves over our heads, that the swift foot of Mah-to-ga was laid. -It is here, also, that the fleet-bounding wild horse mingles his bones -with the red man; and the eagle’s wing is melted as he darts over -its surface. Friends! it is the season of fire; and I fear, from the -smell of the wind, that the Spirit is awake!” - -[Illustration: 128] - -[Illustration: 127] - -Pah-me-o-ne-qua said no more, but mounted his wild horse, and waving -his hand, his red shoulders were seen rapidly vanishing as he glided -through the thick mazes of waving grass. We were on his trail, and -busily traced him until the midday-sun had brought us to the ground, -with our refreshments spread before us. He partook of them not, but -stood like a statue, while his black eyes, in sullen silence, swept the -horizon round; and then, with a deep-drawn sigh, he gracefully sunk to -the earth, and laid with his face to the ground. Our buffalo _tongues_ -and pemican, and marrow-fat, were spread before us; and we were in the -full enjoyment of these dainties of the Western world, when, quicker -than the frightened elk, our Indian friend sprang upon his feet! His -eyes skimmed again slowly over the prairies’ surface, and he laid -himself as before on the ground. - -“Red Thunder seems sullen to-day,” said Bogard—“he startles at every -rush of the wind, and scowls at the whole world that is about him.” - -“There’s a rare chap for you—a fellow who would shake his fist at -Heaven, when he is at home; and here, in a _grass-patch_, must make his -_fire-medicine_ for a _circumstance_ that he could easily leave at a -shake of his horse’s heels.” - -“Not sae sure o’ that, my hooney, though we’ll not be making too -lightly of the matter, nor either be frightened at the mon’s strange -octions. But, Bogard, I’ll tell ye in a ’ord (and thot’s enough), -there’s something more than odds in all this ‘_medicine_.’ If this -mon’s a fool, he was born out of his own country, that’s all—and if -the divil iver gits him, he must take him cowld, for he is too swift -and too wide-awake to be taken alive—you understond thot, I suppouse? -But, to come to the plain matter—supposin that the Fire Spirit (and I -go for somewhat of witchcraft), I say supposin that this _Fire Spirit_ -should jist impty his pipe on tother side of this prairie, and strike -up a bit of a blaze in this high grass, and send it packing across in -this direction, before sich a death of a wind as this is! By the _bull -barley_, I’ll bet you’d be after ‘_making medicine_,’ and taking a bit -of it, too, to get rid of the racket.” - -“Yes, but you see, Patrick——” - -“Neever mind thot (not wishin to distarb you); and suppouse the blowin -wind was coming fast ahead, jist blowin about our ears a warld of smoke -and chokin us to dith, and we were dancin about a _Varginny reel_ among -these little paths, where the divil would we be by the time we got to -that bluff, for it’s now fool of a distance? Givin you time to spake, -I would say a word more (askin your pardon), I know by the expression -of your face, mon, you neever have seen the world on fire yet, and -therefore you know nothin at all of a _hurly burly_ of this kind—did -ye?—did ye iver see (and I jist want to know), did ye iver see the -fire in high-grass, runnin with a strong wind, about five mile and the -half, and thin hear it strike into a _slash_ of _dry_ cane brake!! I -would jist ax you that? By thuneder you niver have—for your eyes would -jist stick out of your head at the thought of it! Did ye iver look -way into the backside of Mr. Maelzel’s Moscow, and see the flashin -flames a runnin up; and then hear the poppin of the _militia fire_ jist -afterwards? then you have jist a touch of it! ye’re jist beginnin—ye -may talk about fires—but this is sich a _baste of a fire_! Ask _Jack -Sanford_, he’s a chop that can tall you all aboot it. Not wishin -to distarb you, I would say a word more—and that is this—If I were -advisin, I would say that we are gettin too far into this imbustible -meadow; for the grass is dry, and the wind is too strong to make a -light matter of, at this sason of the year; an now I’ll jist tell ye -how M‘Kenzie and I were sarved in this very place about two years ago; -and he’s a worldly chop, and niver aslape, my word for that————hollo, -what’s that!” - -_Red Thunder_ was on his feet!—his long arm was stretched over the -grass, and his blazing eye-balls starting from their sockets! “White -man (said he), see ye that small cloud lifting itself from the prairie? -he rises! the hoofs of our horses have waked him! The _Fire Spirit_ is -awake—this wind is from his nostrils, and his face is this way!” No -more—but his swift horse darted under him, and he gracefully slid over -the waving grass as it was bent by the wind. Our viands were left, and -we were swift on his trail. The extraordinary leaps of his wild horse, -occasionally raised his red shoulders to view, and he sank again in the -waving billows of grass. The tremulous wind was hurrying by us fast, -and on it was borne the agitated wing of the soaring eagle. His neck -was stretched for the towering bluff, and the thrilling screams of his -voice told the secret that was behind him. Our horses were swift, and -we struggled hard, yet hope was feeble, for the bluff was yet _blue_, -and nature nearly exhausted! The sunshine was _dying_, and a cool -shadow advancing over the plain. Not daring to look back, we strained -every nerve. The roar of a distant cataract seemed gradually advancing -on us—the winds increased, the howling tempest was maddening behind -us—and the swift-winged _beetle_ and _heath hens_, instinctively drew -their straight lines over our heads. The fleet-bounding antelope passed -us also; and the _still swifter_ long-legged hare, who leaves but a -shadow as he flies! Here was no time for thought—but I recollect the -heavens were overcast—the distant thunder was heard—the lightning’s -glare was reddening the scene—and the smell that came on the winds -struck terror to my soul! * * * * The piercing yell of my savage guide -at this moment came back upon the winds—his robe was seen waving in the -air, and his foaming horse leaping up the towering bluff. - -Our breath and our sinews, in this last struggle for life, were just -enough to bring us to its summit. We had risen from a _sea of fire_! -“Great God! (I exclaimed) how sublime to gaze into that valley, where -the elements of nature are so strangely convulsed!” Ask not the poet or -painter how it looked, for they can tell you not; but ask the _naked -savage_, and watch the electric twinge of his manly nerves and muscles, -as he pronounces the lengthened “hush——sh————” his hand on his mouth, -and his glaring eye-balls looking you to the very soul! - -I beheld beneath me an immense cloud of black smoke, which extended -from one extremity of this vast plain to the other, and seemed -majestically to roll over its surface in a bed of liquid fire; and -above this mighty desolation, as it rolled along, the whitened smoke, -pale with terror, was streaming and rising up in magnificent cliffs to -heaven! - -I stood _secure_, but tremblingly, and heard the maddening wind, which -hurled this _monster_ o’er the land—I heard the roaring thunder, and -saw its thousand lightnings flash; and then I saw _behind_, the black -and smoking desolation of this _storm_ of _fire_! - - - - - LETTER—No. 34. - - FORT LEAVENWORTH, _LOWER MISSOURI_. - - -Since writing the last epistle, some considerable time has elapsed, -which has, nevertheless, been filled up and used to advantage, -as I have been moving about and using my brush amongst different -tribes in this vicinity. The Indians that may be said to belong -to this vicinity, and who constantly visit this post, are the -Ioways—Konzas—Pawnees—Omahas—Ottoes, and Missouries (primitive), and -Delawares—Kickapoos—Potawatomies—Weahs—Peorias—Shawanos, Kaskaskias -(semi-civilized remnants of tribes that have been removed to this -neighbourhood by the Government, within the few years past). These -latter-named tribes are, to a considerable degree, agriculturalists; -getting their living principally by ploughing, and raising corn, and -cattle and horses. They have been left on the frontier, surrounded by -civilized neighbours, where they have at length been induced to sell -out their lands, or exchange them for a much larger tract of wild lands -in these regions, which the Government has purchased from the wilder -tribes. - -Of the first named, the Ioways may be said to be the farthest -departed from primitive modes, as they are depending chiefly on their -corn-fields for subsistence; though their appearance, both in their -dwellings and personal looks, dress, modes, &c., is that of the -primitive Indian. - -The Ioways are a small tribe, of about fourteen hundred persons, living -in a snug little village within a few miles of the eastern bank of the -Missouri River, a few miles above this place. - -The present chief of this tribe is Notch-ee-ning-a (the white cloud, -+plate+ 129), the son of a very distinguished chief of the same name, -who died recently, after gaining the love of his tribe, and the respect -of all the civilized world who knew him. If my time and space will -admit it, and I should not forget it, I shall take another occasion to -detail some of the famous transactions of his signal life. - -The son of White Cloud, who is now chief, and whose portrait I have -just named, was tastefully dressed with a buffalo robe, wrapped around -him, with a necklace of grizzly bear’s claws on his neck; with shield, -bow, and quiver on, and a profusion of wampum strings on his neck. - -_Wy-ee-yogh_ (the man of sense, +plate+ 130), is another of this tribe, -much distinguished for his bravery and early warlike achievements. His -head was dressed with a broad silver band passing around it, and decked -out with the crest of horsehair. - -[Illustration: 129 130] - -[Illustration: 131 132] - -Pah-ta-coo-che (the shooting cedar, +plate+ 131), and Was-com-mun -(the busy man, +plate+ 132), are also distinguished warriors of the -tribe; tastefully dressed and equipped, the one with his war-club on -his arm, the other with bow and arrows in his hand; both wore around -their waists beautiful buffalo robes, and both had turbans made of -vari-coloured cotton shawls, purchased of the Fur Traders. Around their -necks were necklaces of the bears’ claws, and a profusion of beads and -wampum. Their ears were profusely strung with beads; and their naked -shoulders curiously streaked and daubed with red paint. - -Others of this tribe will be found amongst the paintings in my Indian -Museum; and more of them and their customs given at a future time. - -The Konzas, of 1560 souls, reside at the distance of sixty or eighty -miles from this place, on the Konzas River, fifty miles above its union -with the Missouri, from the West. - -This tribe has undoubtedly sprung from the Osages, as their personal -appearance, language and traditions clearly prove. They are living -adjoining to the Osages at this time, and although a kindred people, -have sometimes deadly warfare with them. The present chief of this -tribe is known by the name of the “White Plume;” a very urbane and -hospitable man, of good portly size, speaking some English, and making -himself good company for all white persons who travel through his -country and have the good luck to shake his liberal and hospitable hand. - -It has been to me a source of much regret, that I did not get the -portrait of this celebrated chief; but I have painted several others -distinguished in the tribe, which are fair specimens of these people. -Sho-me-cos-se (the wolf, +plate+ 133), a chief of some distinction, -with a bold and manly outline of head; exhibiting, like most of this -tribe, an European outline of features, signally worthy the notice -of the enquiring world. The head of this chief was most curiously -ornamented, and his neck bore a profusion of wampum strings. - -Meach-o-shin-gaw (the little white bear, +plate+ 134). Chesh-oo-hong-ha -(the man of good sense, +plate+ 135), and Wa-hon-ga-shee (no fool, -+plate+ 136), are portraits of distinguished Konzas, and all furnish -striking instances of the bold and Roman outline that I have just -spoken of. - -The custom of shaving the head, and ornamenting it with the crest -of deer’s hair, belongs to this tribe; and also to the Osages, the -Pawnees, the Sacs, and Foxes, and Ioways, and to no other tribe that -I know of; unless it be in some few instances, where individuals have -introduced it into their tribes, merely by way of imitation. - -With these tribes, the custom is one uniformly adhered to by every man -in the nation; excepting some few instances along the frontier, where -efforts are made to imitate white men, by allowing the hair to grow out. - -In +plate+ 135, is a fair exhibition of this very curious custom—the -hair being cut as close to the head as possible, except a tuft the -size of the palm of the hand, on the crown of the head, which is -left of two inches in length: and in the centre of which is fastened -a beautiful crest made of the hair of the deer’s tail (dyed red) and -horsehair, and oftentimes surmounted with the war-eagle’s quill. In -the centre of the patch of hair, which I said was left of a couple -of inches in length, is preserved a small lock, which is never cut, -but cultivated to the greatest length possible, and uniformly kept in -braid, and passed through a piece of curiously carved bone; which lies -in the centre of the crest, and spreads it out to its uniform shape, -which they study with great care to preserve. Through this little -braid, and outside of the bone, passes a small wooden or bone key, -which holds the crest to the head. This little braid is called in these -tribes, the “_scalp-lock_,” and is scrupulously preserved in this way, -and offered to their enemy if they can get it, as a trophy; which it -seems in all tribes they are anxious to yield to their conquerors, -in case they are killed in battle; and which it would be considered -cowardly and disgraceful for a warrior to shave off, leaving nothing -for his enemy to grasp for, when he falls into his hands in the events -of battle. - -Amongst those tribes who thus shave and ornament their heads, the crest -is uniformly blood-red; and the upper part of the head, and generally -a considerable part of the face, as red as they can possibly make it -with vermilion. I found these people cutting off the hair with small -scissors, which they purchase of the Fur Traders; and they told me that -previous to getting scissors, they cut it away with their knives; and -before they got knives, they were in the habit of burning it off with -red hot stones, which was a very slow and painful operation. - -With the exception of these few, all the other tribes in North America -cultivate the hair to the greatest length they possibly can; preserving -it to flow over their shoulders and backs in great profusion, and quite -unwilling to spare the smallest lock of it for any consideration. - -The Pawnees are a very powerful and warlike nation, living on the river -Platte, about one hundred miles from its junction with the Missouri; -laying claim to, and exercising sway over, the whole country, from its -mouth to the base of the Rocky Mountains. - -The present number of this tribe is ten or twelve thousand; about one -half the number they had in 1832, when that most appalling disease, the -small-pox, was accidentally introduced amongst them by the Fur Traders, -and whiskey sellers; when ten thousand (or more) of them perished in -the course of a few months. - -The Omahas, of fifteen hundred; the Ottoes of six hundred; and -Missouries of four hundred, who are now living under the protection and -surveillance of the Pawnees, and in the immediate vicinity of them, -were all powerful tribes, but so reduced by this frightful disease, -and at the same time, that they were unable longer to stand against -so formidable enemies as they had around them, in the Sioux, Pawnees, -Sacs, and Foxes, and at last merged into the Pawnee tribe, under -whose wing and protection they now live. - -[Illustration: 133 134] - -[Illustration: 135 136] - -The period of this awful calamity in these regions, was one that will -be long felt, and long preserved in the traditions of these people. The -great tribe of the Sioux, of whom I have heretofore spoken, suffered -severely with the same disease; as well as the Osages and Konzas; and -particularly the unfortunate Puncahs, who were almost extinguished by -it. - -The destructive ravages of this most fatal disease amongst these poor -people, who know of no specific for it, is beyond the knowledge, and -almost beyond the belief, of the civilized world. Terror and dismay -are carried with it; and awful despair, in the midst of which they -plunge into the river, when in the highest state of fever, and die in a -moment; or dash themselves from precipices; or plunge their knives to -their hearts, to rid themselves from the pangs of slow and disgusting -death. - -Amongst the formidable tribe of Pawnees, the Fur Traders are yet doing -some business; but, from what I can learn, the Indians are dealing -with some considerable distrust, with a people who introduced so fatal -a calamity amongst them, to which one half of their tribe have fallen -victims. The Traders made their richest harvest amongst these people, -before this disease broke out; and since it subsided, quite a number -of their lives have paid the forfeit, according to the Indian laws of -retribution.[2] - -The Pawnees have ever been looked upon, as a very warlike and hostile -tribe; and unusually so, since the calamity which I have mentioned. - -Major Dougherty, of whom I have heretofore spoken, has been for -several years their agent; and by his unremitted endeavours, with -an unequalled familiarity with the Indian character, and unyielding -integrity of purpose, has successfully restored and established, -a system of good feeling and respect between them and the “pale -faces,” upon whom they looked, naturally and experimentally, as their -destructive enemies. - -Of this stern and uncompromising friend of the red man, and of justice, -who has taken them close to his heart, and familiarized himself with -their faults and their griefs, I take great pleasure in recording here -for the perusal of the world, the following extract from one of his -true and independent Reports, to the Secretary at War; which sheds -honour on his name, and deserves a more public place than the mere -official archives of a Government record. - -“In comparing this Report with those of the years preceding, you will -find there has been little improvement on the part of the Indians, -either in literary acquirements or in agricultural knowledge. - -“It is my decided opinion, that, so long as the Fur Traders and -trappers are permitted to reside among the Indians, all the efforts -of the Government to better their condition will be fruitless; or, in -a great measure checked by the strong influence of those men over the -various tribes. - -“Every exertion of the agents, (and other persons, intended to carry -into effect the views of the Government, and humane societies,) are -in such direct opposition to the Trader and his interest, that the -agent finds himself continually contending with, and placed in direct -and immediate contrariety of interest to the Fur Traders or grossly -neglecting his duty by overlooking acts of impropriety; and it is a -curious and melancholy fact, that while the General Government is using -every means and expense to promote the advancement of those aboriginal -people, it is at the same time suffering the Traders to oppose and -defeat the very objects of its intentions. So long as the Traders and -trappers are permitted in the Indian country, the introduction of -spirituous liquors will be inevitable, under any penalty the law may -require; and until its prohibition is certain and effectual, every -effort of Government, through the most faithful and indefatigable -agents, will be useless. It would be, in my humble opinion, better to -give up every thing to the Traders, and let them have the sole and -entire control of the Indians, than permit them to contend at every -point, with the views of the Government; and that contention made -manifest, even to the most ignorant Indian. - -“While the agent is advising the Indians to give up the chase and -settle themselves, with a view to agricultural pursuits, the Traders -are urging them on in search of skins. - -“Far be it from me to be influenced or guided by improper or personal -feeling, in the execution of my duty; but, Sir, I submit my opinion to -a candid world, in relation to the subject, and feel fully convinced -you will be able to see at once the course which will ever place the -Indian Trader, and the present policy of Government, in relation to the -Indians, at eternal war. - -[Illustration: 138] - -[Illustration: 139] - -[Illustration: 140] - -[Illustration: 141] - -[Illustration: 143] - -[Illustration: 144] - -“The missionaries sent amongst the several tribes are, no doubt, -sincere in their intentions. I believe them to be so, from what I -have seen; but, unfortunately, they commence their labours where they -should end them. They should teach the Indians to work, by establishing -schools of that description among them; induce them to live at home, -abandon their restless and unsettled life, and live independent of the -chase. After they are taught this, their intellectual faculties would -be more susceptible of improvement of a moral and religious nature; and -their steps towards civilization would become less difficult.” - -The Pawnees are divided into four bands, or families—designated by the -names of Grand Pawnees—Tappage Pawnees—Republican Pawnees, and Wolf -Pawnees. - -Each of these bands has a chief at its head; which chiefs, with all the -nation, acknowledge a superior chief at whose voice they all move. - -At the head of the Grand Pawnees, is _Shon-ka-ki-he-ga_ (the horse -chief, +plate+ 138); and by the side of him, _Haw-che-ke-sug-ga_ (he -who kills the Osages, +plate+ 139), the aged chief of the Missouries, -of whom I have spoken, and shall yet say more. - -_La-doo-ke-a_ (the buffalo bull, +plate+ 140), with his _medicine_ or -_totem_ (the head of a buffalo) painted on his breast and his face, -with bow and arrows in his hands, is a warrior of great distinction in -the same band. - -_Le-shaw-loo-lah-le-hoo_ (the big elk, +plate+ 141), chief of the Wolf -Pawnees, is another of the most distinguished of this tribe. - -In addition to the above, I have also painted of this tribe, -for my Museum, _Ah-shaw-wah-rooks-te_ (the medicine horse); -_La-kee-too-wi-ra-sha_ (the little chief); _Loo-ra-we-re-coo_ (the -bird that goes to war); _Ah-sha-la-couts-a_ (mole in the forehead); -_La-shaw-le-staw-hix_ (the man chief); _Te-ah-ke-ra-le-re-coo_ -(the Chayenne); _Lo-loch-to-hoo-la_ (the big chief); -_La-wah-ee-coots-la-shaw-no_ (the brave chief); and _L’har-e-tar-rushe_ -(the ill-natured man). - -The Pawnees live in four villages, some few miles apart, on the banks -of the Platte river, having their allies the Omahas and Ottoes so near -to them as easily to act in concert, in case of invasion from any other -tribe; and from the fact that half or more of them are supplied with -guns and ammunition, they are able to withstand the assaults of any -tribe that may come upon them. - -Of the Ottoes, _No-way-ke-sug-ga_ (he who strikes two at once, +plate+ -143); and _Raw-no-way-woh-krah_ (the loose pipe-stem, +plate+ 144), -I have painted at full length, in beautiful costumes—the first with -a necklace of grizzly bear’s claws, and his dress profusely fringed -with scalp-locks; the second, in a tunic made of the entire skin of a -grizzly bear, with a head-dress of the war-eagle’s quills. - -Besides these, I painted, also, _Wah-ro-nee-sah_ (the surrounder); -_Non-je-ning-a_ (no heart); and _We-ke-ru-law_ (he who exchanges). - -Of the Omahas, _Ki-ho-ga-waw-shu-shee_ (the brave chief, +plate+ 145), -is the head chief; and next to him in standing and reputation, is -_Om-pa-ton-ga_ (the big elk, +plate+ 146), with his tomahawk in his -hand, and his face painted black, for war. - -Besides these, I painted _Man-ska-qui-ta_ (the little soldier), a -brave; _Shaw-da-mon-nee_ (there he goes); and _Nom-ba-mon-nee_ (the -double walker). - -Of these wild tribes I have much more in store to say in future, and -shall certainly make another budget of Letters from this place, or from -other regions from whence I may wish to write, and _possibly, lack -material_! All of these tribes, as well as the numerous semi-civilized -remnants of tribes, that have been thrown out from the borders of -our settlements, have missionary establishments and schools, as well -as agricultural efforts amongst them; and will furnish valuable -evidence as to the success that those philanthropic and benevolent -exertions have met with, contending (as they have had to do) with the -contaminating influences of whiskey-sellers, and other mercenary men, -catering for their purses and their unholy appetites. - -[Illustration: 145] - -[Illustration: 146] - - [2] Since the above was written, I have had the very great pleasure - of reading the notes of the Honourable Charles A. Murray, (who was - for several months a guest amongst the Pawnees), and also of being - several times a fellow-traveller with him in America; and at last - a debtor to him for his signal kindness and friendship in London. - Mr. Murray’s account of the Pawnees, as far as he saw them, is - without doubt drawn with great fidelity, and he makes them out a - pretty bad set of fellows. As I have before mentioned, there is - probably not another tribe on the Continent, that has been more - abused and incensed by the system of trade, and money-making, than - the Pawnees; and the Honourable Mr. Murray, with his companion, - made his way boldly into the heart of their country, without guide - or interpreter, and I consider at great hazard to his life: and, - from all the circumstances, I have been ready to congratulate him - on getting out of their country as well as he did. - - I mentioned in a former page, the awful destruction of this tribe - by the small-pox; a few years previous to which, some one of the - Fur Traders visited a threat upon these people, that if they did - not comply with some condition, “he would let the small-pox out of - a bottle and destroy the whole of them.” The pestilence has since - been introduced accidentally amongst them by the Traders; and the - standing tradition of the tribe now is, that “the Traders opened a - bottle and let it out to destroy them.” Under such circumstances, - from amongst a people who have been impoverished by the system of - trade, without any body to protect him, I cannot but congratulate - my Honourable friend for his peaceable retreat, where others before - him have been less fortunate; and regret at the same time, that - he could not have been my companion to some others of the remote - tribes. - - - - - LETTER—No. 35. - - ST. LOUIS, _MISSOURI_. - - -My little bark has been soaked in the water again, and Ba’tiste and -Bogard have paddled, and I have steered and dodged our little craft -amongst the snags and sawyers, until at last we landed the humble -little thing amongst the huge steamers and floating palaces at the -wharf of this bustling and growing city. - -And first of all, I must relate the fate of my little boat, which had -borne us safe over two thousand miles of the Missouri’s turbid and -boiling current, with no fault, excepting two or three instances, when -the waves became too saucy, she, like the best of boats of her size, -went to the bottom, and left us soused, to paddle our way to the shore, -and drag out our things and dry them in the sun. - -When we landed at the wharf, my luggage was all taken out, and removed -to my hotel; and when I returned a few hours afterwards, to look for my -little boat, to which I had contracted a peculiar attachment (although -I had left it in special charge of a person at work on the wharf); some -_mystery_ or _medicine_ operation had relieved me from any further -anxiety or trouble about it—it had gone and never returned, although it -had safely passed the countries of mysteries, and had often laid weeks -and months at the villages of red men, with no laws to guard it; and -where it had also often been taken out of the water by _mystery-men_, -and carried up the bank, and turned against my wigwam; and by them -again safely carried to the river’s edge, and put afloat upon the -water, when I was ready to take a seat in it. - -St. Louis, which is 1400 miles west of New York, is a flourishing -town, of 15,000 inhabitants, and destined to be the great emporium of -the West—the greatest inland town in America. Its location is on the -Western bank of the Mississippi river, twenty miles below the mouth of -the Missouri, and 1400 above the entrance of the Mississippi into the -Gulf of Mexico. - -This is the great depôt of all the Fur Trading Companies to the Upper -Missouri and Rocky Mountains, and their starting-place; and also for -the Santa Fe, and other Trading Companies, who reach the Mexican -borders overland, to trade for silver bullion, from the extensive mines -of that rich country. - -I have also made it _my_ starting-point, and place of deposit, to which -I send from different quarters, my packages of paintings and Indian -articles, minerals, fossils, &c., as I collect them in various regions, -here to be stored till my return; and where on my _last return_, if I -ever make it, I shall hustle them altogether, and remove them to the -East. - -To this place I had transmitted by steamer and other conveyance, about -twenty boxes and packages at different times, as my note-book shewed; -and I have, on looking them up and enumerating them, been lucky enough -to recover and recognize about fifteen of the twenty, which is a pretty -fair proportion for this wild and desperate country, and the very -_conscientious hands_ they often are doomed to pass through. - -Ba’tiste and Bogard (poor fellows) I found, after remaining here a few -days, had been about as unceremoniously snatched off, as my little -canoe; and Bogard, in particular, as he had made show of a few hundred -dollars, which he had saved of his hard earnings in the Rocky Mountains. - -He came down with a liberal heart, which he had learned in an Indian -life of ten years, with a strong taste, which he had acquired, for -whiskey, in a country where it was sold for twenty dollars per gallon; -and with an independent feeling, which illy harmonized with rules and -regulations of a country of laws; and the consequence soon was, that by -the “Hawk and Buzzard” system, and Rocky Mountain liberality, and Rocky -Mountain prodigality, the poor fellow was soon “jugged up;” where he -could deliberately dream of beavers, and the free and cooling breezes -of the mountain air, without the pleasure of setting his trap for the -one, or even indulging the hope of ever again having the pleasure of -breathing the other. - -I had imbibed rather less of these delightful passions in the Indian -country, and consequently indulged less in them when I came back; and -of course, was rather more fortunate than poor Bogard, whose feelings -I soothed as far as it laid in my power, and prepared to “lay my -course” to the South, with colours and canvass in readiness for another -campaign. - -In my sojourn in St. Louis, amongst many other kind and congenial -friends whom I met, I have had daily interviews with the venerable -Governor Clark, whose whitened locks are still shaken in roars of -laughter, and good jests among the numerous citizens, who all love him, -and continually rally around him in his hospitable mansion. - -Governor Clark, with Captain Lewis, were the first explorers across the -Rocky Mountains, and down the Colombia to the Pacific Ocean thirty-two -years ago; whose tour has been published in a very interesting work, -which has long been before the world. My works and my design have -been warmly approved and applauded by this excellent patriarch of the -Western World; and kindly recommended by him in such ways as have been -of great service to me. Governor Clark is now Superintendent of Indian -Affairs for all the Western and North Western regions; and surely, -their interests could never have been intrusted to better or abler -hands.[3] - -So long have I been recruiting, and enjoying the society of friends in -this town, that the navigation of the river has suddenly closed, being -entirely frozen over; and the earth’s surface covered with eighteen -inches of drifting snow, which has driven me to the only means, and I -start in a day or two, with a tough little pony and a packhorse, to -trudge through the snow drifts from this to New Madrid, and perhaps -further; a distance of three or four hundred miles to the South—where -I must venture to meet a warmer climate—the river open, and steamers -running, to waft me to the Gulf of Mexico. Of the fate or success -that waits me, or of the incidents of that travel, as they have not -transpired, I can as yet say nothing; and I close my book for further -time and future entries. - - [3] Some year or two after writing the above, I saw the - announcement of the death of this veteran, whose life has been - one of faithful service to his country, and, at the same time, at - strictest fidelity as the guardian and friend of the red men. - - - - - LETTER—No. 36. - - PENSACOLA, _WEST FLORIDA_. - - -From my long silence of late, you will no doubt have deemed me out of -the _civil_ and perhaps out of the _whole world_. - -I have, to be sure, been a great deal of the time _out of the limits_ -of one and, at times, nearly _out of_ the other. Yet I am _living_, -and hold in my possession a number of epistles which passing events -had dictated, but which I neglected to transmit at the proper season. -In my headlong transit through the Southern tribes of Indians, I have -“_popped out_” of the woods upon this glowing land, and I cannot -forego the pleasure of letting you into a few of the secrets of this -delightful place. - -“_Flos—floris_,” &c. every body knows the meaning of; and _Florida_, -in Spanish, is a country of flowers.—_Perdido_ is _perdition_, and Rio -Perdido, _River_ of _Perdition_. Looking down its perpendicular banks -into its black water, its depth would seem to be _endless_, and the -doom of the unwary to be gloomy in the extreme. Step not accidentally -or wilfully over its fatal brink, and Nature’s opposite extreme is -spread about you. You are _literally_ in the land of the “cypress and -myrtle”—where the ever-green live oak and lofty magnolia dress the -forest in a perpetual mantle of green. - -The sudden transition from the ice-bound regions of the North to this -mild climate, in the midst of winter, is one of peculiar pleasure. At a -half-way of the distance, one’s cloak is thrown aside; and arrived on -the ever-verdant borders of Florida, the bosom is opened and bared to -the soft breeze from the ocean’s wave, and the congenial warmth of a -summer’s sun. - -Such is the face of Nature here in the rude month of February; -green peas are served on the table—other garden vegetables in great -perfection, and garden flowers, as well as wild, giving their full and -sweetest perfume to the winds. - -I looked into the deep and bottomless _Perdido_, and beheld about -it the thousand charms which Nature has spread to allure the unwary -traveller to its brink. ’Twas not enough to entangle him in a web of -sweets upon its borders, but _Nature_ seems to have used an _art_ to -draw him to its _bottom_, by the voluptuous buds which blossom under -its black waters, and whose vivid colours are softened and enriched the -deeper they are seen below its surface. The sweetest of wild flowers -enamel the shores and spangle the dark green tapestry which hangs -over its bosom—the stately _magnolia_ towers fearlessly over its black -waters, and sheds (with the myrtle and jessamine) the richest perfume -over this chilling pool of death. - -How exquisitely pure and sweet are the delicate tendrils which Nature -has hung over these scenes of melancholy and gloom! and how strong, -also, has she fixed in man’s breast the passion to possess and enjoy -them! I could have hung by the tree tops over that fatal stream, or -blindly staggered over its thorny brink to have culled the sweets which -are found only in its bosom; but the _poisonous fang_, I was told, was -continually aimed at my heel, and I left the sweetened atmosphere of -its dark and gloomy, yet enamelled shores. - -Florida is, in a great degree, a dark and sterile wilderness, yet -with spots of beauty and of loveliness, with charms that cannot be -forgotten. Her swamps and everglades, the dens of alligators, and -lurking places of the desperate savage, gloom the thoughts of the wary -traveller, whose mind is cheered and lit to admiration, when in the -solitary pine woods, where he hears nought but the echoing notes of -the _sand-hill cranes_, or the howling wolf, he suddenly breaks out -into the open savannahs, teeming with their myriads of wild flowers, -and palmettos (+plate+ 147); or where the winding path through which -he is wending his lonely way, suddenly brings him out upon the beach, -where the rolling sea has thrown up her thousands of hills and mounds -of sand as white as the drifted snow, over which her green waves are -lashing, and sliding back again to her deep green and agitated bosom -(+plate+ 148). This sketch was made on _Santa Rosa Island_, within -a few miles of Pensacola, of a favourite spot for _tea_ (and other -convivial) _parties_, which are often held there. The hills of sand -are as _purely white as snow_, and fifty or sixty feet in height, and -supporting on their tops, and in their sides, clusters of magnolia -bushes—of myrtle—of palmetto and heather, all of which are evergreens, -forming the most vivid contrast with the snow-white sand in which they -are growing. On the beach a family of Seminole Indians are encamped, -catching and drying red fish, their chief article of food. - -I have traversed the snow-white shores of Pensacola’s beautiful bay, -and I said to myself, “Is it possible that Nature has done so much -in vain—or will the wisdom of man lead him to add to such works the -embellishments of art, and thus convert to his own use and enjoyment -the greatest luxuries of life?” As a travelling stranger through the -place, I said “yes: it must be so.” Nature has here formed the finest -harbour in the world; and the dashing waves of the ocean have thrown -around its shores the purest barriers of sand, as white as the drifted -snow. Unlike all other Southern ports, it is surrounded by living -fountains of the purest water, and its shores continually fanned by the -refreshing breathings of the sea. To a Northern man, the winters in -this place appear like a continual spring time; and the intensity of a -summer’s sun is cooled into comfort and luxury by the ever-cheering sea -breeze. - -This is the only place I have found in the Southern country to which -Northern people can repair with safety in the summer season; and I know -not of a place in the world where they can go with better guarantees -of good health, and a reasonable share of the luxuries of life. The -town of Pensacola is beautifully situated on the shore of the bay, -and contains at present about fifteen hundred inhabitants, most of -them Spanish Creoles. They live an easy and idle life, without any -energy further than for the mere means of living. The bay abounds in -the greatest variety of fish, which are easily taken, and the finest -quality of oysters are found in profusion, even alongside of the -wharves. - -Government having fixed upon this harbour as the great naval depôt -for all the Southern coast, the consequence will be, that a vast sum -of public money will always be put into circulation in this place; -and the officers of the navy, together with the officers of the army, -stationed in the three forts built and now building at this place, will -constitute the most polished and desirable society in our country. - -What Pensacola _has been_ or _is_, in a commercial point of view, -little can be said; but what it _can be_, and most certainly _will -be_, in a few years, the most sanguine can hardly predict. I would -unhesitatingly recommend this to the enterprising capitalists of the -North, as a place where they can _live_, and where (if nature has been -kind, as experience has taught us) they _will_ flourish. A few such -men have taken their stand here within a few months past; and, as a -first step towards their aggrandizement, a plan of a rail-road has been -projected, from Pensacola to Columbus, in Georgia; which needs only to -be completed, to place Pensacola at once before any other town on the -Southern coast, excepting New Orleans. Of the feasibility of such a -work, there is not the slightest doubt; and, from the opinions advanced -by Captain Chase and Lieutenant Bowman, two of the most distinguished -engineers of the army, it would seem as if Nature had formed a level -nearly the whole way, and supplied the best kind of timber on the spot -for its erection. The route of this rail-road would be through or near -the principal cotton-growing part of Alabama, and the quantity of -produce from that state, as well as from a great part of the state of -Georgia, which would seek this market, would be almost incalculable. -Had this road been in operation during the past winter, it has been -ascertained by a simple calculation, that the cotton-growers of -Alabama, might have saved 2,000,000 of dollars on their crop; by being -enabled to have got it early into market, and received the first price -of 18¾ cents, instead of waiting six weeks or two months for a rise of -water, enabling them to get it to Mobile—at which time it had fallen to -nine cents per pound. - -As a work also of _national utility_, it would rank amongst the -most important in our country, and the Government might afford to -appropriate the whole sum necessary for its construction. In a period -of war, when in all probability, for a great part of the time, this -port may be in a state of blockade, such a communication with the -interior of the country, would be of incalculable benefit for the -transportation of men—of produce and munitions of war. - -[Illustration: 147] - -[Illustration: 148] - -Of the few remnants of Indians remaining in this part of the country, I -have little to say, at present, that could interest you. The sum total -that can be learned or seen of them (like all others that are half -civilized) is, that they are to be pitied. - -The direful “_trump of war_” is blowing in East Florida, where I was -“steering my course;” and I shall in a few days turn my steps in a -different direction. - -Since you last heard from me, I have added on to my former Tour “down -the river,” the remainder of the Mississippi (or rather Missouri), -from St. Louis to New Orleans; and I find that, from its source to the -Balize, the distance is 4500 _miles only_! I shall be on the wing again -in a few days, for a shake of the hand with the Camanchees, Osages, -Pawnees, Kioways, Arapahoes, &c.—some hints of whom I shall certainly -give you from their different localities, provided I can keep the hair -on my head. - -This Tour will lead me up the Arkansas to its source, and into the -Rocky Mountains, under the protection of the United States dragoons. -You will begin to think ere long, that I shall acquaint myself pretty -well with the manners and customs of our country—at least with the -_out-land-ish_ part of it. - -I shall hail the day with pleasure, when I can again reach the free -land of the lawless savage; for far more agreeable to my ear is the -Indian yell and war-whoop, than the civilized groans and murmurs about -“_pressure_,” “_deposites_,” “_banks_,” “_boundary questions_,” &c.; -and I vanish from the country with the sincere hope that these tedious -words may become _obsolete_ before I return. Adieu. - - - - - LETTER—No. 37. - - FORT GIBSON, _ARKANSAS TERRITORY_. - - -Since the date of my last Letter at Pensacola, in Florida, I travelled -to New Orleans, and from thence up the Mississippi several hundred -miles, to the mouth of the Arkansas; and up the Arkansas, 700 miles to -this place. We wended our way up, between the pictured shores of this -beautiful river, on the steamer “Arkansas,” until within 200 miles -of this post; when we got aground, and the water falling fast, left -the steamer nearly on dry ground. Hunting and fishing, and whist, and -sleeping, and eating, were our principal amusements to deceive away -the time, whilst we were waiting for the water to rise. Lieutenant -Seaton, of the army, was one of my companions in misery, whilst we -lay two weeks or more without prospect of further progress—the poor -fellow on his way to his post to join his regiment, had left his trunk, -unfortunately, with all his clothes in it; and by hunting and fishing -in shirts that I loaned him, or from other causes, we became yoked in -amusements, in catering for our table—in getting fish and wild fowl; -and, after that, as the “last kick” for amusement and pastime, with -another good companion by the name of Chadwick, we clambered up and -over the rugged mountains’ sides, from day to day, turning stones to -catch _centipedes_ and _tarantulas_, of which poisonous reptiles we -caged a number; and on the boat amused ourselves by betting on their -battles, which were immediately fought, and life almost instantly -taken, when they came together.[4] - -In this, and fifty other ways, we whiled away the heavy time: but yet, -at last we reached our destined goal, and here we are at present fixed. -Fort Gibson is the extreme south-western outpost on the United States -frontier; beautifully situated on the banks of the river, in the midst -of an extensive and lovely prairie; and is at present occupied by the -7th regiment of United States infantry, heretofore under the command of -General Arbuckle, one of the oldest officers on the frontier, and the -original builder of the post. - -Being soon to leave this little civilized world for a campaign in the -Indian country, I take this opportunity to bequeath a few words before -the moment of departure. Having sometime since obtained permission -from the Secretary of War to accompany the regiment of the United -States dragoons in their summer campaign, I _reported_ myself at -this place two months ago, where I have been waiting ever since for -their organization.—After the many difficulties which they have had -to encounter, they have at length all assembled—the grassy plains are -resounding with the trampling hoofs of the prancing war-horse—and -already the hills are echoing back the notes of the spirit-stirring -trumpets, which are sounding for the onset. The _natives_ are again “to -be astonished,” and I shall probably again be a witness to the scene. -But whether the approach of eight hundred mounted dragoons amongst the -Camanchees and Pawnees, will afford me a better subject for a picture -of a _gaping_ and _astounded multitude_, than did the first approach -of our steam-boat amongst the Mandans, &c., is a question yet to be -solved. I am strongly inclined to think that the scene will not be -less wild and spirited, and I ardently wish it; for I have become so -much Indian of late, that my pencil has lost all appetite for subjects -that savour of tameness. I should delight in seeing these red knights -of the lance astonished, for it is then that they shew their brightest -hues—and I care not how badly we frighten them, provided we hurt -them not, nor frighten them out of _sketching distance_. You will -agree with me, that I am going farther to get _sitters_, than any of -my fellow-artists ever did; but I take an indescribable pleasure in -roaming through Nature’s trackless wilds, and selecting my models, -where I am free and unshackled by the killing restraints of society; -where a painter must modestly sit and breathe away in agony the edge -and soul of his inspiration, waiting for the sluggish _calls_ of the -civil. Though the toil, the privations, and expense of travelling to -these remote parts of the world to get subjects for my pencil, place -almost insurmountable, and sometimes _painful_ obstacles before me, yet -I am encouraged by the continual conviction that I am practising in -the _true School of the Arts_; and that, though I should get as poor -as Lazarus, I should deem myself rich in models and studies for the -future occupation of my life. Of this much I am certain—that amongst -these sons of the forest, where are continually repeated the feats -and gambols equal to the Grecian Games, I have learned more of the -essential parts of my art in the three last years, than I could have -learned in New York in a life-time. - -The landscape scenes of these wild and beautiful regions, are, of -themselves, a rich reward for the traveller who can place them in his -portfolio: and being myself the only one accompanying the dragoons for -scientific purposes, there will be an additional pleasure to be derived -from those pursuits. The regiment of eight hundred men, with whom I -am to travel, will be an effective force, and a perfect protection -against any attacks that will ever be made by Indians. It is composed -principally of young men of respectable families, who would act, on all -occasions, from feelings of pride and honour, in addition to those of -the common soldier. - -The day before yesterday the regiment of dragoons and the 7th regiment -of infantry, stationed here, were reviewed by General Leavenworth, who -has lately arrived at this post, superseding Colonel Arbuckle in the -command. - -Both regiments were drawn up in battle array, in _fatigue dress_, and -passing through a number of the manœuvres of battle, of charge and -repulse, &c., presenting a novel and thrilling scene in the prairie, to -the thousands of Indians and others who had assembled to witness the -display. The proud and manly deportment of these young men remind one -forcibly of a regiment of Independent Volunteers, and the horses have a -most beautiful appearance from the arrangement of colours. Each company -of horses has been selected of one colour entire. There is a company -of _bays_, a company of _blacks_, one of _whites_, one of _sorrels_, -one of _greys_, one of _cream_ colour, &c. &c., which render the -companies distinct, and the effect exceedingly pleasing. This regiment -goes out under the command of Colonel Dodge, and from his well tested -qualifications, and from the beautiful equipment of the command, there -can be little doubt but that they will do credit to themselves and an -honour to their country; so far as honours can be gained and laurels -can be plucked from their wild stems in a savage country. The object -of this summer’s campaign seems to be to cultivate an acquaintance -with the Pawnees and Camanchees. These are two extensive tribes of -roaming Indians, who, from their extreme ignorance of us, have not yet -recognized the United States in treaty, and have struck frequent blows -on our frontiers and plundered our traders who are traversing their -country. For this I cannot so much blame them, for the Spaniards are -gradually advancing upon them on one side, and the Americans on the -other, and fast destroying the furs and game of their country, which -God gave them as their only wealth and means of subsistence. This -movement of the dragoons _seems_ to be one of the most humane in its -views, and I heartily hope that it may prove so in the event, as well -for our own sakes as for that of the Indian. I can see no reason why -we should march upon them with an invading army carrying with it the -spirit of chastisement. The object of Government undoubtedly is to -effect a friendly meeting with them, that they may see and respect us, -and to establish something like a system of mutual rights with them. To -penetrate their country with the other view, that of chastising them, -even with five times the number that are now going, would be entirely -futile, and perhaps _disastrous_ in the extreme. It is a pretty thing -(and perhaps an easy one, in the estimation of the world) for an army -of mounted men to be gaily prancing over the boundless green fields of -the West, and it _is_ so for a little distance—but it would be well -that the world should be apprised of some of the actual difficulties -that oppose themselves to the success of such a campaign, that they -may not censure too severely, in case this command should fail to -accomplish the objects for which they were organized. - -In the first place, from the great difficulty of organizing and -equipping, these troops are starting too late in the season for their -summer’s campaign, by two months. The journey which they have to -perform is a very long one, and although the first part of it will be -picturesque and pleasing, the after part of it will be tiresome and -fatiguing in the extreme. As they advance to the West, the grass (and -consequently the game) will be gradually diminishing, and water in many -parts of the county not to be found. - -As the troops will be obliged to subsist themselves a great part of the -way, it will be extremely difficult to do it under such circumstances, -and at the same time hold themselves in readiness, with half-famished -horses and men nearly exhausted, to contend with a numerous enemy who -are at home, on the ground on which they were born, with horses fresh -and ready for action. It is not probable, however, that the Indians -will venture to take advantage of such circumstances; but I am inclined -to think, that the expedition will be more likely to fail from another -source: it is my opinion that the appearance of so large a military -force in their country, will alarm the Indians to that degree, that -they will fly with their families to their hiding-places amongst those -barren deserts, which they themselves can reach only by great fatigue -and extreme privation, and to which our half-exhausted troops cannot -possibly follow them. From these haunts their warriors would advance -and annoy the regiment as much as they could, by striking at their -hunting parties and cutting off their supplies. To attempt to pursue -them, if they cannot be called to a council, would be as useless as -to follow the wind; for our troops in such a case, are in a country -where they are obliged to subsist themselves, and the Indians being on -fresh horses, with a supply of provisions, would easily drive all the -buffaloes ahead of them; and endeavour, as far as possible, to decoy -our troops into the barren parts of the country, where they could not -find the means of subsistence. - -The plan designed to be pursued, and the only one that can succeed, -is to send runners to the different bands, explaining the friendly -intentions of our Government, and to invite them to a meeting. For this -purpose several Camanchee and Pawnee prisoners have been purchased from -the Osages, who may be of great service in bringing about a friendly -interview. - -I ardently hope that this plan may succeed, for I am anticipating -great fatigue and privation in the endeavour to see these wild tribes -together; that I may be enabled to lay before the world a just estimate -of their manners and customs. - -I hope that my suggestions may not be truly prophetic; but I am -constrained to say, that I doubt very much whether we shall see -anything more of them than their trails, and the sites of their -deserted villages. - -Several companies have already started from this place; and the -remaining ones will be on their march in a day or two. General -Leavenworth will accompany them 200 miles, to the mouth of False -Washita, and I shall be attached to his staff. Incidents which may -occur, I shall record. Adieu. - - +Note.+—In the mean time, as it may be long before I can write - again, I send you some account of the Osages; whom I have been - visiting and painting during the two months I have been staying - here. - - [4] Several years after writing the above, I was shocked at the - announcement of the death of this amiable and honourable young man, - Lieutenant Seaton, who fell a victim to the deadly disease of that - country; severing another of the many fibres of my heart, which - peculiar circumstances in these wild regions, had woven, but to be - broken. - - - - - LETTER—No. 38. - - FORT GIBSON, _ARKANSAS_. - - -Nearly two months have elapsed since I arrived at this post, on my way -up the river from the Mississippi, to join the regiment of dragoons on -their campaign into the country of the Camanchees and Pawnee Picts; -during which time, I have been industriously at work with my brush and -my pen, recording the looks and the deeds of the Osages, who inhabit -the country on the North and the West of this. - -The Osage, or (as they call themselves) _Wa-saw-see_, are a tribe of -about 5200 in numbers, inhabiting and hunting over the head-waters -of the Arkansas, and Neosho or Grand Rivers. Their present residence -is about 700 miles West of the Mississippi river: in three villages, -constituted of wigwams, built of barks and flags or reeds. One of these -villages is within forty miles of this Fort; another within sixty, and -the third about eighty miles. Their chief place of trade is with the -sutlers at this post; and there are constantly more or less of them -encamped about the garrison. - -The Osages may justly be said to be the tallest race of men in North -America, either of red or white skins; there being very few indeed of -the men, at their full growth, who are less than six feet in stature, -and very many of them six and a half, and others seven feet. They are -at the same time well-proportioned in their limbs, and good looking; -being rather narrow in the shoulders, and, like most all very tall -people, a little inclined to stoop; not throwing the chest out, and -the head and shoulders back, quite as much as the Crows and Mandans, -and other tribes amongst which I have been familiar. Their movement is -graceful and quick; and in war and the chase, I think they are equal to -any of the tribes about them. - -This tribe, though living, as they long have, near the borders of -the civilized community, have studiously rejected everything of -civilized customs; and are uniformly dressed in skins of their own -dressing—strictly maintaining their primitive looks and manners, -without the slightest appearance of innovations, excepting in the -blankets, which have been recently admitted to their use instead of the -buffalo robes, which are now getting scarce amongst them. - -The Osages are one of the tribes who shave the head, as I have before -described when speaking of the Pawnees and Konzas, and they decorate -and paint it with great care, and some considerable taste. There is -a peculiarity in the heads of these people which is very striking to -the eye of a traveller; and which I find is produced by artificial -means in infancy. Their children, like those of all the other tribes, -are carried on a board, and slung upon the mother’s back. The infants -are lashed to the boards, with their backs upon them, apparently in -a very uncomfortable condition; and with the Osages, the head of the -child bound down so tight to the board, as to force in the occipital -bone, and create an unnatural deficiency on the back part, and -consequently more than a natural elevation of the top of the head. -This custom, they told me they practiced, because “it pressed out a -bold and manly appearance in front.” This I think, from observation, -to be rather imaginary than real; as I cannot see that they exhibit -any extraordinary development in the front; though they evidently -shew a striking deficiency on the back part, and also an unnatural -elevation on the top of the head, which is, no doubt, produced by this -custom. The difference between this mode and the one practiced by the -Flathead Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains, consists in this, that -the Flatheads press the head _between_ two boards; the one pressing -the frontal bone down, whilst the other is pressing the occipital up, -producing the most frightful deformity; whilst the Osages merely press -the occipital in, and that, but to a moderate degree, occasioning but -a slight, and in many cases, almost immaterial, departure from the -symmetry of nature. - -[Illustration: 150] - -[Illustration: 151] - -These people, like all those tribes who shave the head, cut and slit -their ears very much, and suspend from them great quantities of wampum -and tinsel ornaments. Their necks are generally ornamented also with -a profusion of wampum and beads; and as they live in a warm climate -where there is not so much necessity for warm clothing, as amongst the -more Northern tribes, of whom I have been heretofore speaking; their -shoulders, arms, and chests are generally naked, and painted in a great -variety of picturesque ways, with silver bands on the wrists, and -oftentimes a profusion of rings on the fingers. - -The head-chief of the Osages at this time, is a young man by the name -of Clermont (+plate+ 150), the son of a very distinguished chief of -that name, who recently died; leaving his son his successor, with the -consent of the tribe. I painted the portrait of this chief at full -length, in a beautiful dress, his leggings fringed with scalp-locks, -and in his hand his favourite and valued war-club. - -By his side I have painted also at full length, his wife and child -(+plate+ 151). She was richly dressed in costly cloths of civilized -manufacture, which is almost a solitary instance amongst the Osages, -who so studiously reject every luxury and every custom of civilized -people; and amongst those, the use of whiskey, which is on all sides -tendered to them—but almost uniformly rejected! This is an unusual and -unaccountable thing, unless the influence which the missionaries and -teachers have exercised over them, has induced them to abandon the -pernicious and destructive habit of drinking to excess. From what I can -learn, the Osages were once fond of whiskey; and, like all other tribes -who have had the opportunity, were in the habit of using it to excess. -Several very good and exemplary men have been for years past exerting -their greatest efforts, with those of their families, amongst these -people; having established schools and agricultural experiments amongst -them. And I am fully of the opinion, that this decided anomaly in the -Indian country, has resulted from the devoted exertions of these pious -and good men. - -Amongst the chiefs of the Osages, and probably the next in authority -and respect in the tribe, is Tchong-tas-sab-bee, the black dog (+plate+ -152), whom I painted also at full length, with his pipe in one hand, -and his tomahawk in the other; his head shaved, and ornamented with a -beautiful crest of deers’ hair, and his body wrapped in a huge mackinaw -blanket. - -This dignitary, who is blind in the left eye, is one of the most -conspicuous characters in all this country, rendered so by his huge -size (standing in height and in girth, above all of his tribe), as -well as by his extraordinary life. The Black Dog is familiarly known -to all the officers of the army, as well as to Traders and all other -white men, who have traversed these regions, and I believe, admired and -respected by most of them. - -His height, I think, is seven feet; and his limbs full and rather -fat, making his bulk formidable, and weighing, perhaps, some 250 -or 300 pounds. This man is chief of one of the three bands of the -Osages, divided as they are into three families; occupying, as I -before said, three villages, denominated, “Clermont’s Village,” “Black -Dog’s Village,” and “White Hair’s Village.” The White Hair is another -distinguished leader of the Osages; and some have awarded to him the -title of _Head Chief_; but in the jealous feelings of rivalry which -have long agitated this tribe, and some times, even endangered its -peace, I believe it has been generally agreed that his claims are third -in the tribe; though he justly claims the title of a chief, and a very -gallant and excellent man. The portrait of this man, I regret to say, I -did not get. - -Amongst the many brave and distinguished warriors of the tribe, one of -the most noted and respected is Tal-lee (+plate+ 153), painted at full -length, with his lance in his hand—his shield on his arm, and his bow -and quiver slung upon his back. - -In this portrait, there is a fair specimen of the Osage figure and -dress, as well as of the facial outline, and shape and character of the -head, and mode of dressing and ornamenting it with the helmet-crest, -and the eagle’s quill. - -If I had the time at present, I would unfold to the reader some of the -pleasing and extraordinary incidents of this gallant fellow’s military -life; and also the anecdotes that have grown out of the familiar life -I have led with this handsome and high-minded _gentleman_ of the wild -woods and prairies. Of the Black Dog I should say more also; and -most assuredly will not fail to do justice to these extraordinary men, -when I have leisure to write off all my notes, and turn biographer. At -present, I shake hands with these two noblemen, and bid them good-bye; -promising them, that if I never get time to say more of their virtues—I -shall say nothing against them. - -[Illustration: 152] - -[Illustration: 153] - -In +plates+ 154, 155, 156, I have represented three braves, -Ko-ha-tunk-a (the big crow); Nah-com-e-shee (the man of the bed), and -Mun-ne-pus-kee (he who is not afraid). These portraits set forth fairly -the modes of dress and ornaments of the young men of the tribe, from -the tops of their heads to the soles of their feet. The only dress they -wear in warm weather is the breech-cloth, leggings, and moccasins of -dressed skins, and garters worn immediately below the knee, ornamented -profusely with beads and wampum.[5] - -These three distinguished and ambitious young men, were of the best -families in the Osage nation; and as they explained to me, having -formed a peculiar attachment to each other—they desired me to paint -them all on one canvass, in which wish I indulged them. - -Besides the above personages, I also painted the portraits of -_Wa-ho-beck-ee_ (————), a brave, and said to be the handsomest -man in the Osage nation; _Moi-een-e-shee_ (the constant walker); -_Wa-mash-ee-sheek_ (he who takes away); _Wa-chesh-uk_ (war); -_Mink-chesk_ (————); _Wash-im-pe-shee_ (the mad man), a distinguished -warrior; _Shin-ga-wos-sa_ (the handsome bird); _Cah-he-ga-shin-ga_ (the -little chief), and _Tcha-to-ga_ (the mad buffalo); all of which will -hang in my +Indian Museum+ for the inspection of the curious. The last -mentioned of these was tried and convicted of the murder of two white -men during Adams’s administration, and was afterwards pardoned, and -still lives, though in disgrace in his tribe, as one whose life had -been forfeited, “but (as they say) not worth taking.” - -The Osages have been formerly, and until quite recently, a powerful -and warlike tribe; carrying their arms fearlessly through all of -these realms; and ready to cope with foes of any kind that they were -liable to meet. At present, the case is quite different; they have -been repeatedly moved and jostled along, from the head waters of the -White river, and even from the shores of the Mississippi, to where -they now are; and reduced by every war and every move. The small-pox -has taken its share of them at two or three different times; and the -Konzas, as they are now called, having been a part of the Osages, and -receded from them, impaired their strength; and have at last helped -to lessen the number of their warriors; so that their decline has -been very rapid, bringing them to the mere handful that now exists of -them; though still preserving their valour as warriors, which they -are continually shewing off as bravely and as professionally as they -can, with the Pawnees and the Camanchees, with whom they are waging -incessant war; although they are the principal sufferers in those -scenes which they fearlessly persist in, as if they were actually bent -on their self-destruction. Very great efforts have been, and are being -made amongst these people to civilize and christianize them; and still -I believe with but little success. Agriculture they have caught but -little of; and of religion and civilization still less. One good result -has, however, been produced by these faithful labourers, which is the -conversion of these people to temperance; which I consider the first -important step towards the other results, and which of itself is an -achievement that redounds much to the credit and humanity of those, -whose lives have been devoted to its accomplishment. - -Here I must leave the Osages for the present, but not the reader, whose -company I still hope to have awhile longer, to hear how I get along -amongst the wild and untried scenes, that I am to start upon in a few -days, in company with the first regiment of dragoons, in the first -grand _civilized foray_, into the country of the wild and warlike -Camanchees. - -[Illustration: 154 155 156] - - [5] These three young men, with eight or ten others, were sent - out by the order of the Black Dog and the other chiefs, with the - regiment of dragoons, as guides and hunters, for the expedition to - the Camanchees, an account of which will be found in the following - pages. - - I was a fellow-traveller and hunter with these young men for - several months, and therefore have related in the following - pages some of the incidents of our mutual exploits whilst in the - Camanchee country. - - - - - LETTER—No. 39. - - MOUTH OF FALSE WASHITA, _RED RIVER_. - - -Under the protection of the United States dragoons, I arrived at this -place three days since, on my way again in search of the “Far West.” -How far I may _this time_ follow the flying phantom, is uncertain. I am -already again in the land of the _buffaloes_ and the _fleet-bounding -antelopes_; and I anticipate, with many other beating hearts, rare -sport and amusement amongst the wild herds ere long. - -We shall start from hence in a few days, and other epistles I may -occasionally drop you from _terra incognita_, for such is the great -expanse of country which we expect to range over; and names we are to -give, and country to explore, as far as we proceed. We are, at this -place, on the banks of the Red River, having Texas under our eye on -the opposite bank. Our encampment is on the point of land between the -Red and False Washita rivers, at their junction; and the country about -us is a panorama too beautiful to be painted with a pen: it is, like -most of the country in these regions, composed of prairie and timber, -alternating in the most delightful shapes and proportions that the eye -of a connoisseur could desire. The verdure is everywhere of the deepest -green, and the plains about us are literally speckled with buffalo. -We are distant from Fort Gibson about 200 miles, which distance we -accomplished in ten days. - -A great part of the way, the country is prairie, gracefully -undulating—well watered, and continually beautified by copses and -patches of timber. On our way my attention was rivetted to the tops -of some of the prairie bluffs, whose summits I approached with -inexpressible delight. I rode to the top of one of these noble mounds, -in company with my friends Lieut. Wheelock and Joseph Chadwick, where -we agreed that our _horses_ instinctively _looked_ and _admired_. -They thought not of the rich herbage that was under their feet, -but, with deep-drawn sighs, their necks were loftily curved, and -their eyes widely stretched over the landscape that was beneath us. -From this elevated spot, the horizon was bounded all around us by -mountain streaks of blue, softening into azure as they vanished, and -the pictured vales that intermediate lay, were deepening into green -as the eye was returning from its roamings. Beneath us, and winding -through the waving landscape was seen with peculiar effect, the “bold -dragoons,” marching in beautiful order forming a train of a mile in -length. Baggage waggons and Indians (_engagés_) helped to lengthen -the procession. From the point where we stood, the line was seen in -miniature; and the undulating hills over which it was bending its way, -gave it the appearance of a huge black snake gracefully gliding over a -rich carpet of green. - -This picturesque country of 200 miles, over which we have passed, -belongs to the Creeks and Choctaws, and affords one of the richest and -most desirable countries in the world for agricultural pursuits. - -Scarcely a day has passed, in which we have not crossed oak ridges, -of several miles in breadth, with a sandy soil and scattering timber; -where the ground was almost literally covered with vines, producing the -greatest profusion of delicious grapes, of five-eighths of an inch in -diameter, and hanging in such endless clusters, as justly to entitle -this singular and solitary wilderness to the style of a vineyard (and -ready for the vintage), for many miles together. - -The next hour we would be trailing through broad and verdant valleys of -green prairies, into which we had descended; and oftentimes find our -progress completely arrested by hundreds of acres of small plum-trees, -of four or six feet in height; so closely woven and interlocked -together, as entirely to dispute our progress, and sending us several -miles around; when every bush that was in sight was so loaded with the -weight of its delicious wild fruit, that they were in many instances -literally without leaves on their branches, and bent quite to the -ground. Amongst these, and in patches, were intervening beds of wild -roses, wild currants, and gooseberries. And underneath and about them, -and occasionally interlocked with them, huge masses of the prickly -pears, and beautiful and tempting wild flowers that sweetened the -atmosphere above; whilst an occasional huge yellow rattlesnake, or -a copper-head, could be seen gliding over, or basking across their -vari-coloured tendrils and leaves. - -On the eighth day of our march we met, for the first time, a herd of -buffaloes; and being in advance of the command, in company with General -Leavenworth, Colonel Dodge, and several other officers; we all had an -opportunity of testing the mettle of our horses and _our own tact_ at -the wild and spirited death. The inspiration of chase took at once, and -alike, with the old and the young; a beautiful plain lay before us, -and we all gave spur for the onset. General Leavenworth and Colonel -Dodge, with their pistols, gallantly and handsomely belaboured a fat -cow, and were in together at the death. I was not quite so fortunate -in my selection, for the one which I saw fit to gallant over the plain -alone, of the same sex, younger and coy, led me a hard chase, and for a -long time, disputed my near approach; when, at length, the _full speed_ -of my horse forced us to close company, and she desperately assaulted -his shoulders with her horns. My gun was aimed, but missing its fire, -the muzzle entangled in her mane, and was instantly broke in two in my -hands, and fell over my shoulder. My pistols were then brought to bear -upon her; and though severely wounded, she succeeded in reaching the -thicket and left me without “a deed of chivalry to boast.”—Since that -day, the Indian hunters in our charge have supplied us abundantly with -buffalo meat; and report says, that the country ahead of us will afford -us continual sport, and an abundant supply. - -We are halting here for a few days to recruit horses and men, after -which the line of march will be resumed; and if the Pawnees are as near -to us as we have strong reason to believe, from their recent trails and -fires, it is probable that within a few days we shall “thrash” them or -“_get thrashed_;” unless through their sagacity and fear, they elude -our search by flying before us to their hiding-places. - -The prevailing policy amongst the officers seems to be, that of -flogging them first, and then establishing a treaty of peace. If this -plan were _morally right_, I do not think it _practicable_; for, -as _enemies_, I do not believe they will stand to meet us; but, as -_friends_, I think we _may_ bring them to a _talk_, if the proper means -are adopted. We are here encamped on the ground on which Judge Martin -and servant were butchered, and his son kidnapped by the Pawnees or -Camanchees, but a few weeks since; and the moment they discover us in -a large body, they will presume that we are relentlessly seeking for -revenge, and they will probably be very shy of our approach. We are -over the Washita—the “Rubicon is passed.” We are invaders of a sacred -soil. We are carrying war in our front,—and “we shall soon _see_, what -we _shall see_.” - -The cruel fate of Judge Martin and family has been published in the -papers; and it belongs to the regiment of dragoons to demand the -surrender of the murderers, and get for the information of the world, -some authentic account of the mode in which this horrid outrage was -committed. - -Judge Martin was a very respectable and independent man, living on the -lower part of the Red River, and in the habit of taking his children -and a couple of black men-servants with him, and a tent to live in, -every summer, into these wild regions; where he pitched it upon the -prairie, and spent several months in killing buffaloes and other wild -game, for his own private amusement. The news came to Fort Gibson but -a few weeks before we started, that he had been set upon by a party of -Indians and destroyed. A detachment of troops was speedily sent to the -spot, where they found his body horridly mangled, and also of one of -his negroes; and it is supposed that his son, a fine boy of nine years -of age, has been taken home to their villages by them. Where they still -retain him, and where it is our hope to recover him. - -Great praise is due to General Leavenworth for his early and unremitted -efforts to facilitate the movements of the regiment of dragoons, by -opening roads from Gibson and Towson to this place. We found encamped -two companies of infantry from Fort Towson, who will follow in the -rear of the dragoons as far as necessary, transporting with waggons, -stores and supplies, and ready, at the same time, to co-operate with -the dragoons in case of necessity. General Leavenworth will advance -with us from this post, but how far he may proceed is uncertain. We -know not exactly the route which we shall take, for circumstances alone -must decide that point. We shall probably reach Cantonment Leavenworth -in the fall; and one thing is _certain_ (in the opinion of one who has -already seen something of Indian life and country), we shall meet with -many severe privations and reach that place a jaded set of fellows, and -as ragged as Jack Falstaff’s famous band. - -You are no doubt inquiring, who are these Pawnees, Camanchees, and -Arapahoes, and why not tell us all about them? Their history, numbers -and limits are still in obscurity; nothing definite is yet known of -them, but I hope I shall soon be able to give the world a clue to them. - -If my life and health are preserved, I anticipate many a pleasing scene -for my pencil, as well as incidents worthy of reciting to the world, -which I shall occasionally do, as opportunity may occur. - - - - - LETTER—No. 40. - - MOUTH OF FALSE WASHITA. - - -Since I wrote my last Letter from this place, I have been detained here -with the rest of the cavalcade from the extraordinary sickness which -is afflicting the regiment, and actually threatening to arrest its -progress. - -It was, as I wrote the other day, the expectation of the commanding -officer that we should have been by this time recruited and recovered -from sickness, and ready to start again on our march; but since I wrote -nearly one half of the command, and included amongst them, several -officers, with General Leavenworth, have been thrown upon their backs, -with the prevailing epidemic, a slow and distressing bilious fever. The -horses of the regiment are also sick, about an equal proportion, and -seemingly suffering with the same disease. They are daily dying, and -men are calling sick, and General Leavenworth has ordered Col. Dodge to -select all the men, and all the horses that are able to proceed, and be -off to-morrow at nine o’clock upon the march towards the Camanchees, -in hopes thereby to preserve the health of the men, and make the most -rapid advance towards the extreme point of destination. - -General Leavenworth has reserved Col. Kearney to take command of the -remaining troops and the little encampment; and promises Colonel Dodge -that he will himself be well enough in a few days to proceed with a -party on his trail and overtake him at the Cross Timbers. - -I should here remark, that when we started from Fort Gibson, the -regiment of dragoons, instead of the eight hundred which it was -supposed it would contain, had only organized to the amount of 400 -men, which was the number that started from that place; and being at -this time half disabled, furnishes but 200 effective men to penetrate -the wild and untried regions of the hostile Camanchees. All has been -bustle and confusion this day, packing up and preparing for the start -to-morrow morning. My canvass and painting apparatus are prepared and -ready for the packhorse, which carries the goods and chattels of my -esteemed companion Joseph Chadwick and myself, and we shall be the two -only guests of the procession, and consequently the only two who will -be at liberty to gallop about where we please, despite military rules -and regulations, chasing the wild herds, or seeking our own amusements -in any such modes as we choose. Mr. Chadwick is a young man from St. -Louis, with whom I have been long acquainted, and for whom I have the -highest esteem. He has so far stood by me as a faithful friend, and -I rely implicitly on his society during this campaign for much good -company and amusement. Though I have an order from the Secretary at War -to the commanding officer, to protect and supply me, I shall ask but -for their protection; as I have, with my friend Joe, laid in our own -supplies for the campaign, not putting the Government to any expense on -my account, in pursuit of my own private objects. - -I am writing this under General Leavenworth’s tent, where he has -generously invited me to take up my quarters during our encampment -here, and he promises to send it by his express, which starts to-morrow -with a mail from this to Fort Towson on the frontier, some hundreds of -miles below this. At the time I am writing, the General lies pallid -and emaciated before me, on his couch, with a dragoon fanning him, -whilst he breathes forty or fifty breaths a minute, and writhes under -a burning fever, although he is yet unwilling even to admit that he is -sick. - -In my last Letter I gave a brief account of a buffalo chase, where -General Leavenworth and Col. Dodge took parts, and met with pleasing -success. The next day, while on the march, and a mile or so in advance -of the regiment, and two days before we reached this place, General -Leavenworth, Col. Dodge, Lieut. Wheelock and myself were jogging along, -and all in turn complaining of the lameness of our bones, from the -chase on the former day, when the General, who had long ago had his -surfeit of pleasure of this kind on the Upper Missouri, remonstrated -against further indulgence, in the following manner: “Well, Colonel, -this running for buffaloes is bad business for us—we are getting too -old, and should leave such amusements to the young men; I have had -enough of this fun in my life, and I am determined not to hazard my -limbs or weary my horse any more with it—it is the height of folly for -us, but will do well enough for boys.” Col. Dodge assented at once to -his resolves, and approved them; whilst I, who had tried it in every -form (and I had thought, to my heart’s content), on the Upper Missouri, -joined my assent to the folly of our destroying our horses, which had -a long journey to perform, and agreed that I would join no more in the -buffalo chase, however near and inviting they might come to me. - -In the midst of this conversation, and these mutual declarations (or -rather just at the end of them), as we were jogging along in “_Indian -file_,” and General Leavenworth taking the lead, and just rising to the -top of a little hill over which it seems he had had an instant peep, he -dropped himself suddenly upon the side of his horse and wheeled back! -and rapidly informed us with an agitated whisper, and an exceeding -game contraction of the eye, that a snug little band of buffaloes were -quietly grazing just over the knoll in a beautiful meadow for running, -and that if I would take to the left! and Lieut. Wheelock to the right! -and let him and the Colonel dash right into the midst of them! we could -play the devil with them!! one half of this at least was said after -he had got upon his feet and taken off his portmanteau and valise, in -which we had all followed suit, and were mounting for the start! and I -am almost sure nothing else was said, and if it had been I should not -have heard it, for I was too far off! and too rapidly dashed over the -waving grass! and too eagerly gazing and plying the whip, to hear or to -see, anything but the trampling hoofs! and the blackened throng! and -the dancing steeds! and the flashing of guns! until I had crossed the -beautiful lawn! and the limb of a tree, as my horse was darting into -the timber, had crossed my horse’s back, and had scraped me into the -grass, from which I soon raised my head! and all was silent! and all -out of sight! save the dragoon regiment, which I could see in distance -creeping along on the top of a high hill. I found my legs under me in a -few moments, and put them in their accustomed positions, none of which -would for some time, answer the usual purpose; but I at last got them -to work, and brought “Charley” out of the bushes, where he had “brought -up” in the top of a fallen tree, without damage. - -No buffalo was harmed in this furious assault, nor horse nor rider. -Col. Dodge and Lieut. Wheelock had joined the regiment, and General -Leavenworth joined me, with too much game expression _yet_ in his eye -to allow him more time than to say, “I’ll have that calf before I -quit!” and away he sailed, “up hill and down dale,” in pursuit of a -fine calf that had been hidden on the ground during the chase, and was -now making its way over the prairies in pursuit of the herd. I rode -to the top of a little hill to witness the success of the General’s -second effort, and after he had come close upon the little affrighted -animal, it dodged about in such a manner as evidently to baffle his -skill, and perplex his horse, which at last fell in a hole, and both -were instantly out of my sight. I ran my horse with all possible speed -to the spot, and found him on his hands and knees, endeavouring to get -up. I dismounted and raised him on to his feet, when I asked him if -he was hurt, to which he replied “no, but I might have been,” when he -instantly fainted, and I laid him on the grass. I had left my canteen -with my portmanteau, and had nothing to administer to him, nor was -there water near us. I took my lancet from my pocket and was tying his -arm to open a vein, when he recovered, and objected to the operation, -assuring me that he was not in the least injured. I caught his horse -and soon got him mounted again, when we rode on together, and after two -or three hours were enabled to join the regiment. - -From that hour to the present, I think I have seen a decided change in -the General’s face; he has looked pale and feeble, and been continually -troubled with a violent cough. I have rode by the side of him from day -to day, and he several times told me that he was fearful he was badly -hurt. He looks very feeble now, and I very much fear the result of the -fever that has set in upon him. - -We take up the line of march at bugle-call in the morning, and it -may be a long time before I can send a Letter again, as there are no -post-offices nor mail carriers in the country where we are now going. -It will take a great deal to stop me from writing, however, and as I -am now to enter upon one of the most interesting parts of the Indian -country, inasmuch as it is one of the wildest and most hostile, I shall -surely scribble an occasional Letter, if I have to carry them in my own -pocket, and bring them in with me on my return. - - - - - LETTER—No. 41. - - GREAT CAMANCHEE VILLAGE. - - -We are again at rest, and I am with subjects rude and almost infinite -around me, for my pen and my brush. The little band of dragoons are -encamped by a fine spring of cool water, within half a mile of the -principal town of the Camanchees, and in the midst of a bustling and -wild scene, I assure you; and before I proceed to give an account of -things and scenes that are about me, I must return for a few moments to -the place where I left the Reader, at the encampment at False Washita, -and rapidly travel with him over the country that lies between that -place and the Camanchee Village, where I am now writing. - -On the morning after my last Letter was written, the sound and -efficient part of the regiment was in motion at nine o’clock. And with -them, my friend “Joe” and I, with our provisions laid in, and all -snugly arranged on our packhorse, which we alternately led or drove -between us. - -Our course was about due West, on the divide between the Washita and -Red Rivers, with our faces looking towards the Rocky Mountains. The -country over which we passed from day to day, was inimitably beautiful; -being the whole way one continuous prairie of green fields, with -occasional clusters of timber and shrubbery, just enough for the uses -of cultivating-man, and for the pleasure of his eyes to dwell upon. -The regiment was rather more than half on the move, consisting of -250 men, instead of 200 as I predicted in my Letter from that place. -All seemed gay and buoyant at the fresh start, which all trusted was -to liberate us from the fatal miasma which we conceived was hovering -about the mouth of the False Washita. We advanced on happily, and -met with no trouble until the second night of our encampment, in the -midst of which we were thrown into “pie” (as printers would say,) in -an instant of the most appalling alarm and confusion. We were encamped -on a beautiful prairie, where we were every hour apprehensive of -the lurking enemy. And in the dead of night, when all seemed to be -sound asleep and quiet, the instant sound and flash of a gun within a -few paces of us! and then the most horrid and frightful groans that -instantly followed it, brought us all upon our hands and knees in an -instant, and our affrighted horses (which were breaking their lasos,) -in full speed and fury over our heads, with the frightful and mingled -din of snorting, and cries of “Indians! Indians! Pawnees!” &c., which -rang from every part of our little encampment! In a few moments the -excitement was chiefly over, and silence restored; when we could -hear the trampling hoofs of the horses, which were making off in all -directions, (not unlike a drove of swine that once ran into the sea, -when they were possessed of devils); and leaving but now and then an -individual quadruped hanging at its stake within our little camp. The -mode of our encampment was, uniformly in four lines, forming a square -of fifteen or twenty rods in diameter. Upon these lines our saddles and -packs were all laid, at the distance of five feet from each other; and -each man, after grazing his horse, had it fastened with a rope or laso, -to a stake driven in the ground at a little distance from his feet; -thus enclosing the horses all within the square, for the convenience of -securing them in case of attack or alarm. In this way we laid encamped, -when we were awakened by the alarm that I have just mentioned; and our -horses affrighted, dashed out of the camp, and over the heads of their -masters in the desperate “_Stampedo_.” - -After an instant preparation for battle, and a little recovery from the -fright, which was soon effected by waiting a few moments in vain, for -the enemy to come on;—a general explanation took place, which brought -all to our legs again, and convinced us that there was no decided -obstacle, as yet, to our reaching the Camanchee towns; and after that, -“sweet home,” and the arms of our wives and dear little children, -provided we could ever overtake and recover our horses, which had -swept off in fifty directions, and with impetus enough to ensure us -employment for a day or two to come. - -At the proper moment for it to be made, there was a general enquiry for -the cause of this _real misfortune_, when it was ascertained to have -originated in the following manner. A “raw recruit,” who was standing -as one of the sentinels on that night, saw, as he says “he supposed,” -an Indian creeping out of a bunch of bushes a few paces in front of -him, upon whom he levelled his rifle; and as the poor creature did not -“_advance_ and _give the countersign_” at his call, nor any answer at -all, he “let off!” and popped a bullet through the heart of a poor -dragoon horse, which had strayed away on the night before, and had -faithfully followed our trail all the day, and was now, with a beastly -misgiving, coming up, and slowly poking through a little thicket of -bushes into camp, to join its comrades, in servitude again! - -The sudden shock of a gun, and the most appalling groans of this poor -dying animal, in the dead of night, and so close upon the heels of -sweet sleep, created a long vibration of nerves, and a day of great -perplexity and toil which followed, as we had to retrace our steps -twenty miles or more, in pursuit of affrighted horses; of which some -fifteen or twenty took up wild and free life upon the prairies, -to which they were abandoned, as they could not be found. After a -detention of two days in consequence of this disaster, we took up the -line of march again, and pursued our course with vigour and success, -over a continuation of green fields, enamelled with wild flowers, and -pleasingly relieved with patches and groves of timber. - -On the fourth day of our march, we discovered many fresh signs of -buffaloes; and at last, immense herds of them grazing on the distant -hills. Indian trails were daily growing fresh, and their smokes were -seen in various directions ahead of us. And on the same day at noon, -we discovered a large party at several miles distance, sitting on -their horses and looking at us. From the glistening of the blades of -their lances, which were blazing as they turned them in the sun, it -was at first thought that they were Mexican cavalry, who might have -been apprized of our approach into their country, and had advanced to -contest the point with us. On drawing a little nearer, however, and -scanning them closer with our spy-glasses, they were soon ascertained -to be a war-party of Camanchees, on the look out for their enemies. - -The regiment was called to a halt, and the requisite preparations made -and orders issued, we advanced in a direct line towards them until -we had approached to within two or three miles of them, when they -suddenly disappeared over the hill, and soon after shewed themselves -on another mound farther off and in a different direction. The course -of the regiment was then changed, and another advance towards them was -commenced, and as before, they disappeared and shewed themselves in -another direction. After several such efforts which proved ineffectual, -Col. Dodge ordered the command to halt, while he rode forward with a -few of his staff, and an ensign carrying a white flag. I joined this -advance, and the Indians stood their ground until we had come within -half a mile of them, and could distinctly observe all their numbers and -movements. We then came to a halt, and the white flag was sent a little -in advance, and waved as a signal for them to approach; at which one of -their party galloped out in advance of the war-party, on a milk white -horse, carrying a piece of white buffalo skin on the point of his long -lance in reply to our flag. - -This moment was the commencement of one of the most thrilling and -beautiful scenes I ever witnessed. All eyes, both from his own party -and ours, were fixed upon the manœuvres of this gallant little fellow, -and he well knew it. - -The distance between the two parties was perhaps half a mile, and that -a beautiful and gently sloping prairie; over which he was for the space -of a quarter of an hour, reining and spurring his maddened horse, and -gradually approaching us by tacking to the right and the left, like -a vessel beating against the wind. He at length came prancing and -leaping along till he met the flag of the regiment, when he leaned his -spear for a moment against it, looking the bearer full in the face, -when he wheeled his horse, and dashed up to Col. Dodge (+plate+ 157), -with his extended hand, which was instantly grasped and shaken. We -all had him by the hand in a moment, and the rest of the party seeing -him received in this friendly manner, instead of being sacrificed, -as they undoubtedly expected, started under “full whip” in a direct -line towards us, and in a moment gathered, like a black cloud, around -us! The regiment then moved up in regular order, and a general shake -of the hand ensued, which was accomplished by each warrior riding -along the ranks, and shaking the hand of every one as he passed. -This necessary form took up considerable time, and during the whole -operation, my eyes were fixed upon the gallant and wonderful appearance -of the little fellow who bore us the white flag on the point of his -lance. He rode a fine and spirited wild horse, which was as white as -the drifted snow, with an exuberant mane, and its long and bushy tail -sweeping the ground. In his hand he tightly drew the reins upon a -heavy Spanish bit, and at every jump, plunged into the animal’s sides, -till they were in a gore of blood, a huge pair of spurs, plundered, no -doubt, from the Spaniards in their border wars, which are continually -waged on the Mexican frontiers. The eyes of this noble little steed -seemed to be squeezed out of its head; and its fright, and its -agitation had brought out upon its skin a perspiration that was fretted -into a white foam and lather. The warrior’s quiver was slung on the -warrior’s back, and his bow grasped in his left hand, ready for instant -use, if called for. His shield was on his arm, and across his thigh, in -a beautiful cover of buckskin, his gun was slung—and in his right hand -his lance of fourteen feet in length. - -Thus armed and equipped was this dashing cavalier; and nearly in the -same manner, all the rest of the party; and very many of them leading -an extra horse, which we soon learned was the favourite war-horse; and -from which circumstances altogether, we soon understood that they were -a war-party in search of their enemy. - -After a shake of the hand, we dismounted, and the pipe was lit, and -passed around. And then a “talk” was held, in which we were aided by -a Spaniard we luckily had with us, who could converse with one of the -Camanchees, who spoke some Spanish. - -Colonel Dodge explained to them the friendly motives with which we were -penetrating their country—that we were sent by the President to reach -their villages—to see the chiefs of the Camanchees and Pawnee Picts—to -shake hands with them, and to smoke the pipe of peace, and to establish -an acquaintance, and consequently a system of trade that would be -beneficial to both. - -They listened attentively, and perfectly appreciated; and taking -Colonel Dodge at his word, relying with confidence in what he told -them; they informed us that their great town was within a few days’ -march, and pointing in the direction—offered to abandon their -war-excursion, and turn about and escort us to it, which they did in -perfect good faith. We were on the march in the afternoon of that -day, and from day to day they busily led us on, over hill and dale, -encamping by the side of us at night, and resuming the march in the -morning. - -During this march, over one of the most lovely and picturesque -countries in the world, we had enough continually to amuse and excite -us. The whole country seemed at times to be alive with buffaloes, and -bands of wild horses. - -[Illustration: 157] - -[Illustration: 158] - -We had with us about thirty Osage and Cherokee, Seneca and Delaware -Indians, employed as guides and hunters for the regiment; and with -the war-party of ninety or a hundred Camanchees, we formed a most -picturesque appearance while passing over the green fields, and -consequently, sad havoc amongst the herds of buffaloes, which we were -almost hourly passing. We were now out of the influence and reach of -bread stuffs, and subsisted ourselves on buffaloes’ meat altogether; -and the Indians of the different tribes, emulous to shew their skill in -the chase, and prove the mettle of their horses, took infinite pleasure -in dashing into every herd that we approached; by which means, the -regiment was abundantly supplied from day to day with fresh meat. - -In one of those spirited scenes when the regiment were on the march, -and the Indians with their bows and arrows were closely plying a band -of these affrighted animals, they made a bolt through the line of the -dragoons, and a complete breach, through which the whole herd passed, -upsetting horses and riders in the most amusing manner (+plate+ 158), -and receiving such shots as came from those guns and pistols that were -_aimed_, and not fired off into the empty air. - -The buffaloes are very blind animals, and owing, probably in a great -measure, to the profuse locks that hang over their eyes, they run -chiefly by the nose, and follow in the tracks of each other, seemingly -heedless of what is about them; and of course, easily disposed to rush -in a mass, and the whole tribe or gang to pass in the tracks of those -that have first led the way. - -The tract of country over which we passed, between the False Washita -and this place, is stocked, not only with buffaloes, but with numerous -bands of wild horses, many of which we saw every day. There is no other -animal on the prairies so wild and so sagacious as the horse; and none -other so difficult to come up with. So remarkably keen is their eye, -that they will generally run “at the sight,” when they are a mile -distant; being, no doubt, able to distinguish the character of the -enemy that is approaching when at that distance; and when in motion, -will seldom stop short of three or four miles. I made many attempts -to approach them by stealth, when they were grazing and playing their -gambols, without ever having been more than once able to succeed. In -this instance, I left my horse, and with my friend Chadwick, skulked -through a ravine for a couple of miles; until we were at length brought -within gun-shot of a fine herd of them, when I used my pencil for some -time, while we were under cover of a little hedge of bushes which -effectually screened us from their view. In this herd we saw all the -colours, nearly, that can be seen in a kennel of English hounds. Some -were milk white, some jet black—others were sorrel, and bay, and cream -colour—many were of an iron grey; and others were pied, containing a -variety of colours on the same animal. Their manes were very profuse, -and hanging in the wildest confusion over their necks and faces—and -their long tails swept the ground (see +plate+ 160). - -After we had satisfied our curiosity in looking at these proud and -playful animals, we agreed that we would try the experiment of -“creasing” one, as it is termed in this country; which is done by -shooting them through the gristle on the top of the neck, which stuns -them so that they fall, and are secured with the hobbles on the feet; -after which they rise again without fatal injury. This is a practice -often resorted to by expert hunters, with good rifles, who are not -able to take them in any other way. My friend Joe and I were armed on -this occasion, each with a light fowling-piece, which have not quite -the preciseness in throwing a bullet that a rifle has; and having both -levelled our pieces at the withers of a noble, fine-looking iron grey, -we pulled trigger, and the poor creature fell, and the rest of the herd -were out of sight in a moment. We advanced speedily to him, and had the -most inexpressible mortification of finding, that we never had thought -of hobbles or halters, to secure him—and in a few moments more, had the -still greater mortification, and even anguish, to find that one of our -shots had broken the poor creature’s neck, and that he was quite dead. - -The laments of poor Chadwick for the wicked folly of destroying this -noble animal, were such as I never shall forget; and so guilty did we -feel that we agreed that when we joined the regiment, we should boast -of all the rest of our hunting feats, but never make mention of this. - -The usual mode of taking the wild horses, is, by throwing the _laso_, -whilst pursuing them at full speed (+plate+ 161), and dropping a noose -over their necks, by which their speed is soon checked, and they are -“choked down.” The laso is a thong of rawhide, some ten or fifteen -yards in length, twisted or braided, with a noose fixed at the end of -it; which, when the coil of the laso is thrown out, drops with great -certainty over the neck of the animal, which is soon conquered. - -The Indian, when he starts for a wild horse, mounts one of the fleetest -he can get, and coiling his laso on his arm, starts off under the -“full whip,” till he can enter the band, when he soon gets it over -the neck of one of the number; when he instantly dismounts, leaving -his own horse, and runs as fast as he can, letting the laso pass out -gradually and carefully through his hands, until the horse falls for -want of breath, and lies helpless on the ground; at which time the -Indian advances slowly towards the horse’s head, keeping his laso tight -upon its neck, until he fastens a pair of hobbles on the animal’s -two forefeet, and also loosens the laso (giving the horse chance to -breathe), and gives it a noose around the under jaw, by which he gets -great power over the affrighted animal, which is rearing and plunging -when it gets breath; and by which, as he advances, hand over hand, -towards the horse’s nose (+plate+ 162), he is able to hold it down and -prevent it from throwing itself over on its back, at the hazard of its -limbs. By this means he gradually advances, until he is able to place -his hand on the animal’s nose, and over its eyes; and at length to -breathe in its nostrils, when it soon becomes docile and conquered; so -that he has little else to do than to remove the hobbles from its feet, -and lead or ride it into camp. - -[Illustration: 160] - -[Illustration: 161] - -[Illustration: 162] - -This “breaking down” or taming, however, is not without the most -desperate trial on the part of the horse, which rears and plunges in -every possible way to effect its escape, until its power is exhausted, -and it becomes covered with foam; and at last yields to the power -of man, and becomes his willing slave for the rest of its life. By -this very rigid treatment, the poor animal seems to be so completely -conquered, that it makes no further struggle for its freedom; but -submits quietly ever after, and is led or rode away with very little -difficulty. Great care is taken, however, in this and in subsequent -treatment, not to subdue the spirit of the animal, which is carefully -preserved and kept up, although they use them with great severity; -being, generally speaking, cruel masters. - -The wild horse of these regions is a small, but very powerful animal; -with an exceedingly prominent eye, sharp nose, high nostril, small feet -and delicate leg; and undoubtedly, have sprung from a stock introduced -by the Spaniards, at the time of the invasion of Mexico; which having -strayed off upon the prairies, have run wild, and stocked the plains -from this to Lake Winnepeg, two or three thousand miles to the North.[6] - -This useful animal has been of great service to the Indians living on -these vast plains, enabling them to take their game more easily, to -carry their burthens, &c.; and no doubt, render them better and handier -service than if they were of a larger and heavier breed. Vast numbers -of them are also killed for food by the Indians, at seasons when -buffaloes and other game are scarce. They subsist themselves both in -winter and summer by biting at the grass, which they can always get in -sufficient quantities for their food. - -Whilst on our march we met with many droves of these beautiful animals, -and several times had the opportunity of seeing the Indians pursue -them, and take them with the laso. The first successful instance of -the kind was effected by one of our guides and hunters, by the name of -Beatte, a Frenchman, whose parents had lived nearly their whole lives -in the Osage village; and who, himself had been reared from infancy -amongst them; and in a continual life of Indian modes and amusements, -had acquired all the skill and tact of his Indian teachers, and -probably a little more; for he is reputed, without exception, the best -hunter in these Western regions. - -This instance took place one day whilst the regiment was at its usual -halt of an hour, in the middle of the day. - -When the bugle sounded for a halt, and all were dismounted, Beatte and -several others of the hunters asked permission of Col. Dodge to pursue -a drove of horses which were then in sight, at a distance of a mile or -more from us. The permission was given, and they started off, and by -following a ravine, approached near to the unsuspecting animals, when -they broke upon them and pursued them for several miles in full view -of the regiment. Several of us had good glasses, with which we could -plainly see every movement and every manœuvre. After a race of two or -three miles, Beatte was seen with his wild horse down, and the band and -the other hunters rapidly leaving him. - -Seeing him in this condition, I galloped off to him as rapidly as -possible, and had the satisfaction of seeing the whole operation of -“breaking down,” and bringing in the wild animal; and in +plate+ 162, -I have given a fair representation of the mode by which it was done. -When he had conquered the horse in this way, his brother, who was one -of the unsuccessful ones in the chase, came riding back, and leading -up the horse of Beatte which he had left behind, and after staying -with us a few minutes, assisted Beatte in leading his conquered wild -horse towards the regiment, where it was satisfactorily examined and -commented upon, as it was trembling and covered with white foam, until -the bugle sounded the signal for marching, when all mounted; and with -the rest, Beatte, astride of his wild horse, which had a buffalo skin -girted on its back, and a halter, with a cruel noose around the under -jaw. In this manner the command resumed its march, and Beatte astride -of his wild horse, on which he rode quietly and without difficulty, -until night; the whole thing, the capture, and breaking, all having -been accomplished within the space of one hour, our usual and daily -halt at midday. - -Several others of these animals were caught in a similar manner -during our march, by others of our hunters, affording us satisfactory -instances of this most extraordinary and almost unaccountable feat. - -The horses that were caught were by no means very valuable specimens, -being rather of an ordinary quality; and I saw to my perfect -satisfaction, that the finest of these droves can never be obtained in -this way, as they take the lead at once, when they are pursued, and in -a few moments will be seen half a mile or more ahead of the bulk of -the drove, which they are leading off. There is not a doubt but there -are many very fine and valuable horses amongst these herds; but it is -impossible for the Indian or other hunter to take them, unless it be -done by “creasing” them, as I have before described; which is often -done, but always destroys the spirit and character of the animal. - -After many hard and tedious days of travel, we were at last told by our -Camanchee guides that we were near their village; and having led us to -the top of a gently rising elevation on the prairie, they pointed to -their village at several miles distance, in the midst of one of the -most enchanting valleys that human eyes ever looked upon. The general -course of the valley is from N. W. to S. E., of several miles in width, -with a magnificent range of mountains rising in distance beyond; it -being, without doubt, a huge “spur” of the Rocky Mountains, composed -entirely of a reddish granite or gneiss corresponding with the other -links of this stupendous chain. In the midst of this lovely valley, -we could just discern amongst the scattering shrubbery that lined the -banks of the watercourses, the tops of the Camanchee wigwams, and the -smoke curling above them. The valley, for a mile distant about the -village, seemed speckled with horses and mules that were grazing in -it. The chiefs of the war-party requested the regiment to halt, until -they could ride in, and inform their people who were coming. We then -dismounted for an hour or so; when we could see them busily running and -catching their horses; and at length, several hundreds of their braves -and warriors came out at full speed to welcome us, and forming in a -line in front of us, as we were again mounted, presented a formidable -and pleasing appearance (+plate+ 163). As they wheeled their horses, -they very rapidly formed in a line, and “dressed” like well-disciplined -cavalry. The regiment was drawn up in three columns, with a line formed -in front, by Colonel Dodge and his staff, in which rank my friend -Chadwick and I were also paraded; when we had a fine view of the whole -manœuvre, which was picturesque and thrilling in the extreme. - -In the centre of our advance was stationed a white flag, and the -Indians answered to it with one which they sent forward and planted by -the side of it.[7] - -The two lines were thus drawn up, face to face, within twenty or thirty -yards of each other, as inveterate foes that never had met; and, to the -everlasting credit of the Camanchees, whom the world had always looked -upon as murderous and hostile, they had all come out in this manner, -with their heads uncovered, and without a weapon of any kind, to meet a -war-party bristling with arms, and trespassing to the middle of their -country. They had every reason to look upon us as their natural enemy, -as they have been in the habit of estimating all pale faces; and yet, -instead of arms or defences, or even of frowns, they galloped out and -looked us in our faces, without an expression of fear or dismay, and -evidently with expressions of joy and impatient pleasure, to shake us -by the hand, on the bare assertion of Colonel Dodge, which had been -made to the chiefs, that “we came to see them on a friendly visit.” - -After we had sat and gazed at each other in this way for some half an -hour or so, the head chief of the band came galloping up to Colonel -Dodge, and having shaken him by the hand, he passed on to the other -officers in turn, and then rode alongside of the different columns, -shaking hands with every dragoon in the regiment; he was followed in -this by his principal chiefs and braves, which altogether took up -nearly an hour longer, when the Indians retreated slowly towards their -village, escorting us to the banks of a fine clear stream, and a good -spring of fresh water, half a mile from their village, which they -designated as a suitable place for our encampment, and we were soon -bivouacked at the place from which I am now scribbling. - -No sooner were we encamped here (or, in other words, as soon as our -things were thrown upon the ground,) Major Mason, Lieutenant Wheelock, -Captain Brown, Captain Duncan, my friend Chadwick and myself, galloped -off to the village, and through it in the greatest impatience to the -prairies, where there were at least three thousand horses and mules -grazing; all of us eager and impatient to see and to appropriate the -splendid _Arabian horses_, which we had so often heard were owned by -the Camanchee warriors. We galloped around busily, and glanced our eyes -rapidly over them; and all soon returned to the camp, quite “crest -fallen” and satisfied, that, although there were some tolerable nags -amongst this medley group of all colours and all shapes, the beautiful -Arabian we had so often heard of at the East, as belonging to the -Camanchees, must either be a great ways further South than this, or -else it must be a _horse of the imagination_. - -The Camanchee horses are generally small, all of them being of the -wild breed, and a very tough and serviceable animal; and from what I -can learn here of the chiefs, there are yet, farther South, and nearer -the Mexican borders, some of the noblest animals in use of the chiefs, -yet I do not know that we have any more reason to rely upon this -information, than that which had made our horse-jockeys that we have -with us, to run almost crazy for the possession of those we were to -find at this place. Amongst the immense herds we found grazing here, -one-third perhaps are mules, which are much more valuable than the -horses. - -Of the horses, the officers and men have purchased a number of the -best, by giving a very inferior blanket and butcher’s knife, costing -in all about four dollars! These horses in our cities at the East, -independent of the name, putting them upon their merits alone, would be -worth from eighty to one hundred dollars each, and not more. - -A vast many of such could be bought on such terms, and are hourly -brought into camp for sale. If we had goods to trade for them, and -means of getting them home, a great profit could be made, which can -easily be learned from the following transaction that took place -yesterday. A fine looking Indian was hanging about my tent very closely -for several days, and continually scanning an old and half-worn cotton -umbrella, which I carried over me to keep off the sun, as I was -suffering with fever and ague, and at last proposed to purchase it of -me, with a very neat limbed and pretty pied horse which he was riding. -He proposed at first, that I should give him a knife and the umbrella, -but as I was not disposed for the trade (the umbrella being so useful -an article to me, that I did not know how to part with it, not knowing -whether there was another in the regiment); he came a second time, and -offered me the horse for the umbrella alone, which offer I still -rejected; and he went back to the village, and soon returned with -another horse of a much better quality, supposing that I had not valued -the former one equal to the umbrella. - -[Illustration: 163] - -With this he endeavoured to push the trade, and after I had with great -difficulty made him understand that I was sick, and could not part with -it, he turned and rode back towards the village, and in a short time -returned again with one of the largest and finest mules I ever saw, -proposing that, which I also rejected; when he _disappeared_ again. - -In a few moments my friend Captain Duncan, in whose hospitable tent -I was quartered, came in, and the circumstance being related to him, -started up some warm jockey feelings, which he was thoroughly possessed -of, when he instantly sprang upon his feet, and exclaimed, “d——mn the -fellow! where is he gone? here, Gosset! get my old umbrella out of the -pack, I rolled it up with my wiper and the _frying-pan_—get it as quick -as lightning!” with it in his hand, the worthy Captain soon overtook -the young man, and escorted him into the village, and returned in a -short time—not with the mule, but with the second horse that had been -offered to me. - - [6] There are many very curious traditions about the first - appearance of horses amongst the different tribes, and many of - which bear striking proof of the above fact. Most of the tribes - have some story about the first appearance of horses; and amongst - the Sioux, they have beautifully recorded the fact, by giving it - the name of Shonk a-wakon (the medicine-dog). - - - [7] It is a fact which I deem to be worth noting here, that amongst - all Indian tribes, that I have yet visited, in their primitive, - as well as improved state, the _white flag_ is used as a flag of - truce, as it is in the civilized parts of the world, and held to - be sacred and inviolable. The chief going to war always carries it - in some form or other, generally of a piece of white skin or bark, - rolled on a small stick, and carried under his dress, or otherwise; - and also a red flag, either to be unfurled when occasion requires - the _white flag_ as a truce, and the _red_ one for battle, or, as - they say, “for blood.” - - - - - LETTER—No. 42. - - GREAT CAMANCHEE VILLAGE. - - -The village of the Camanchees by the side of which we are encamped, is -composed of six or eight hundred skin-covered lodges, made of poles and -buffalo skins, in the manner precisely as those of the Sioux and other -Missouri tribes, of which I have heretofore given some account. This -village with its thousands of wild inmates, with horses and dogs, and -wild sports and domestic occupations, presents a most curious scene; -and the manners and looks of the people, a rich subject for the brush -and the pen. - -In the view I have made of it (+plate+ 164), but a small portion of -the village is shewn; which is as well as to shew the whole of it, -inasmuch as the wigwams, as well as the customs, are the same in every -part of it. In the foreground is seen the wigwam of the chief; and in -various parts, crotches and poles, on which the women are drying meat, -and “_graining_” buffalo robes. These people, living in a country -where buffaloes are abundant, make their wigwams more easily of their -skins, than of anything else; and with them find greater facilities of -moving about, as circumstances often require: when they drag them upon -the poles attached to their horses, and erect them again with little -trouble in their new residence. - -We white men, strolling about amongst their wigwams, are looked upon -with as much curiosity as if we had come from the moon; and evidently -create a sort of chill in the blood of children and dogs, when we make -our appearance. I was pleased to-day with the simplicity of a group -which came out in front of the chief’s lodge to scrutinize my faithful -friend Chadwick and I, as we were strolling about the avenues and -labyrinths of their village; upon which I took out my book and sketched -as quick as lightning, whilst “Joe” rivetted their attention by some -ingenious trick or other, over my shoulders, which I did not see, -having no time to turn my head (+plate+ 165). These were the juvenile -parts of the chief’s family, and all who at this moment were at home; -the venerable old man, and his three or four wives, making a visit, -like hundreds of others, to the encampment. - -In speaking just above, of the mode of moving their wigwams, and -changing their encampments, I should have said a little more, and -should also have given to the reader, a sketch of one of these -extraordinary scenes, which I have had the good luck to witness -(+plate+ 166); where several thousands were on the march, and -furnishing one of those laughable scenes which daily happen, where so -many dogs, and so many squaws, are travelling in such a confused mass; -with so many conflicting interests, and so many local and individual -rights to be pertinaciously claimed and protected. Each horse drags his -load, and each dog, _i. e._ each dog that _will_ do it (and there are -many that will _not_), also dragging his wallet on a couple of poles; -and each squaw with her load, and all together (notwithstanding their -burthens) cherishing their pugnacious feelings, which often bring them -into general conflict, commencing usually amongst the dogs, and sure -to result in fisticuffs of the women; whilst the men, riding leisurely -on the right or the left, take infinite pleasure in overlooking these -desperate conflicts, at which they are sure to have a laugh, and in -which, as sure never to lend a hand. - -[Illustration: 164] - -[Illustration: 165] - -[Illustration: 166] - -The Camanchees, like the Northern tribes, have many games, and in -pleasant weather seem to be continually practicing more or less of -them, on the prairies, back of, and contiguous to, their village. - -In their ball-plays, and some other games, they are far behind the -Sioux and others of the Northern tribes; but, in racing horses and -riding, they are not equalled by any other Indians on the Continent. -Racing horses, it would seem, is a constant and almost incessant -exercise, and their principal mode of gambling; and perhaps, a more -finished set of jockeys are not to be found. The exercise of these -people, in a country where horses are so abundant, and the country -so fine for riding, is chiefly done on horseback; and it “stands to -reason,” that such a people, who have been practicing from their -childhood, should become exceedingly expert in this wholesome and -beautiful exercise. Amongst their feats of riding, there is one that -has astonished me more than anything of the kind I have ever seen, or -expect to see, in my life:—a stratagem of war, learned and practiced -by every young man in the tribe; by which he is able to drop his body -upon the side of his horse at the instant he is passing, effectually -screened from his enemies’ weapons (+plate+ 167) as he lays in a -horizontal position behind the body of his horse, with his heel hanging -over the horses back; by which he has the power of throwing himself up -again, and changing to the other side of the horse if necessary. In -this wonderful condition, he will hang whilst his horse is at fullest -speed, carrying with him his bow and his shield, and also his long -lance of fourteen feet in length, all or either of which he will wield -upon his enemy as he passes; rising and throwing his arrows over the -horse’s back, or with equal ease and equal success under the horse’s -neck.[8] This astonishing feat which the young men have been repeatedly -playing off to our surprise as well as amusement, whilst they have -been galloping about in front of our tents, completely puzzled the -whole of us; and appeared to be the result of magic, rather than -of skill acquired by practice. I had several times great curiosity -to approach them, to ascertain by what means their bodies could be -suspended in this manner, where nothing could be seen but the heel -hanging over the horse’s back. In these endeavours I was continually -frustrated, until one day I coaxed a young fellow up within a little -distance of me, by offering him a few plugs of tobacco, and he in a -moment solved the difficulty, so far as to render it apparently more -feasible than before; yet leaving it one of the most extraordinary -results of practice and persevering endeavours. I found on examination, -that a short hair halter was passed around under the neck of the horse, -and both ends tightly braided into the mane, on the withers, leaving -a loop to hang under the neck, and against the breast, which, being -caught up in the hand, makes a sling into which the elbow falls, taking -the weight of the body on the middle of the upper arm. Into this loop -the rider drops suddenly and fearlessly, leaving his heel to hang over -the back of the horse, to steady him, and also to restore him when he -wishes to regain his upright position on the horse’s back. - -Besides this wonderful art, these people have several other feats -of horsemanship, which they are continually showing off; which are -pleasing and extraordinary, and of which they seem very proud. A people -who spend so very great a part of their lives, actually on their -horses’ backs, must needs become exceedingly expert in every thing that -pertains to riding—to war, or to the chase; and I am ready, without -hesitation, to pronounce the Camanchees the most extraordinary horsemen -that I have seen yet in all my travels, and I doubt very much whether -any people in the world can surpass them. - -The Camanchees are in stature, rather low, and in person, often -approaching to corpulency. In their movements, they are heavy and -ungraceful; and on their feet, one of the most unattractive and -slovenly-looking races of Indians that I have ever seen; but the -moment they mount their horses, they seem at once metamorphosed, and -surprise the spectator with the ease and elegance of their movements. A -Camanchee on his feet is out of his element, and comparatively almost -as awkward as a monkey on the ground, without a limb or a branch to -cling to; but the moment he lays his hand upon his horse, his _face_, -even, becomes handsome, and he gracefully flies away like a different -being. - -Our encampment is surrounded by continual swarms of old and young—of -middle aged—of male and female—of dogs, and every moving thing that -constitutes their community; and our tents are lined with the chiefs -and other worthies of the tribe. So it will be seen there is no -difficulty of getting subjects enough for my brush, as well as for my -pen, whilst residing in this place. - -The head chief of this village, who is represented to us here, as the -head of the nation, is a mild and pleasant looking gentleman, without -anything striking or peculiar in his looks (+plate+ 168); dressed in a -very humble manner, with very few ornaments upon him, and his hair -carelessly falling about his face, and over his shoulders. The name of -this chief is Ee-shah-ko-nee (the bow and quiver). The only ornaments -to be seen about him were a couple of beautiful shells worn in his -ears, and a boar’s tusk attached to his neck, and worn on his breast. - -[Illustration: 167] - -[Illustration: 168 169] - -[Illustration: 170 171] - -For several days after we arrived at this place, there was a huge mass -of flesh (+plate+ 169), Ta-wah-que-nah (the mountain of rocks), who was -put forward as head chief of the tribe; and all honours were being paid -to him by the regiment of dragoons, until the above-mentioned chief -arrived from the country, where it seems he was leading a war-party; -and had been sent for, no doubt, on the occasion. When he arrived, this -huge monster, who is the largest and fattest Indian I ever saw, stepped -quite into the background, giving way to this admitted chief, who -seemed to have the confidence and respect of the whole tribe. - -This enormous man, whose flesh would undoubtedly weigh three hundred -pounds or more, took the most wonderful strides in the exercise of -his temporary authority; which, in all probability, he was lawfully -exercising in the absence of his superior, as second chief of the tribe. - -A perfect personation of Jack Falstaff, in size and in figure, with an -African face, and a beard on his chin of two or three inches in length. -His name, he tells me, he got from having conducted a large party of -Camanchees through a secret and subterraneous passage, entirely through -the mountain of granite rocks, which lies back of their village; -thereby saving their lives from their more powerful enemy, who had -“cornered them up” in such a way, that there was no other possible mode -for their escape. The mountain under which he conducted them, is called -_Ta-wah-que-nah_ (the mountain of rocks), and from this he has received -his name, which would certainly have been far more appropriate if it -had been a _mountain of flesh_. - -Corpulency is a thing exceedingly rare to be found in any of the -tribes, amongst the men, owing, probably, to the exposed and active -sort of lives they lead; and that in the absence of all the spices of -life, many of which have their effect in producing this disgusting, as -well as unhandy and awkward extravagance in civilized society. - -Ish-a-ro-yeh (he who carries a wolf, +plate+ 170); and Is-sa-wah-tam-ah -(the wolf tied with hair, +plate+ 171); are also chiefs of some -standing in the tribe, and evidently men of great influence, as they -were put forward by the head chiefs, for their likenesses to be painted -in turn, after their own. The first of the two seemed to be the leader -of the war-party which we met, and of which I have spoken; and in -escorting us to their village, this man took the lead and piloted us -the whole way, in consequence of which Colonel Dodge presented him a -very fine gun. - -His-oo-san-ches (the Spaniard, +plate+ 172), a gallant little fellow, -is represented to us as one of the leading warriors of the tribe; and -no doubt is one of the most extraordinary men at present living in -these regions. He is half Spanish, and being a half-breed, for whom -they generally have the most contemptuous feelings, he has been all -his life thrown into the front of battle and danger; at which posts -he has signalized himself, and commanded the highest admiration and -respect of the tribe, for his daring and adventurous career. This is -the man of whom I have before spoken, who dashed out so boldly from -the war-party, and came to us with the white flag raised on the point -of his lance, and of whom I have made a sketch in +plate+ 157. I have -here represented him as he stood for me, with his shield on his arm, -with his quiver slung, and his lance of fourteen feet in length in his -right hand. This extraordinary little man, whose figure was light, -seemed to be all bone and muscle, and exhibited immense power, by the -curve of the bones in his legs and his arms. We had many exhibitions of -his extraordinary strength, as well as agility; and of his gentlemanly -politeness and friendship, we had as frequent evidences. As an instance -of this, I will recite an occurrence which took place but a few days -since, when we were moving our encampment to a more desirable ground -on another side of their village. We had a deep and powerful stream to -ford, when we had several men who were sick, and obliged to be carried -on litters. My friend “Joe” and I came up in the rear of the regiment, -where the litters with the sick were passing, and we found this little -fellow up to his chin in the muddy water, wading and carrying one -end of each litter on his head, as they were in turn, passed over. -After they had all passed, this gallant little fellow beckoned to -me to dismount, and take a seat on his shoulders, which I declined; -preferring to stick to my horse’s back, which I did, as he took it by -the bridle and conducted it through the shallowest ford. When I was -across, I took from my belt a handsome knife and presented it to him, -which seemed to please him very much. - -Besides the above-named chiefs and warriors, I painted the portrait of -_Kots-o-ko-ro-ko_ (the hair of the bull’s neck); and _Hah-nee_ (the -beaver); the first, a chief, and the second, a warrior of terrible -aspect, and also of considerable distinction. These and many other -paintings, as well as manufactures from this tribe, may be always seen -in my +Museum+, if I have the good luck to get them safe home from this -wild and remote region. - -From what I have already seen of the Camanchees, I am fully convinced -that they are a numerous and very powerful tribe, and quite equal in -numbers and prowess, to the accounts generally given of them. - -It is entirely impossible at present to make a correct estimate of -their numbers; but taking their own account of villages they point -to in such numbers, South of the banks of the Red River, as well as -those that lie farther West, and undoubtedly North of its banks, they -must be a very numerous tribe; and I think I am able to say, from -estimates that these chiefs have made me, that they number some 30 or -40,000—being able to shew some 6 or 7000 warriors, well-mounted and -well-armed. This estimate I offer not as conclusive, for so little is -as yet known of these people, that no estimate can be implicitly -relied upon other than that, which, in general terms, pronounces them -to be a very numerous and warlike tribe. - -[Illustration: 172] - -We shall learn much more of them before we get out of their country; -and I trust that it will yet be in my power to give something like a -fair census of them before we have done with them. - -They speak much of their allies and friends, the Pawnee Picts, living -to the West some three or four days’ march, whom we are going to visit -in a few days, and afterwards return to this village, and then “bend -our course” homeward, or, in other words, back to Fort Gibson. Besides -the Pawnee Picts, there are the Kiowas and Wicos; small tribes that -live in the same vicinity, and also in the same alliance, whom we shall -probably see on our march. Every preparation is now making to be off in -a few days—and I shall omit further remarks on the Camanchees, until -we return, when I shall probably have much more to relate of them and -their customs. So many of the men and officers are getting sick, that -the little command will be very much crippled, from the necessity we -shall be under, of leaving about thirty sick, and about an equal number -of well to take care of and protect them; for which purpose, we are -constructing a fort, with a sort of breastwork of timbers and bushes, -which will be ready in a day or two; and the sound part of the command -prepared to start with several Camanchee leaders, who have agreed to -pilot the way. - - [8] Since writing the above, I have conversed with some of the - young men of the Pawnees, who practice the same feat, and who told - me they could throw the arrow from under the horse’s belly, and - elevate it upon an enemy with deadly effect! - - This feat I did not see performed, but from what I did see, I feel - inclined to believe that these young men were boasting of no more - than they were able to perform. - - - - - LETTER—No. 43. - - GREAT CAMANCHEE VILLAGE. - - -The above Letter it will be seen, was written some time ago, and when -all hands (save those who were too sick) were on the start for the -Pawnee village. Amongst those exceptions was I, before the hour of -starting had arrived; and as the dragoons have made their visit there -and returned in a most jaded condition, and I have again got well -enough to write, I will render some account of the excursion, which is -from the pen and the pencil of my friend Joe, who went with them and -took my sketch and note-books in his pocket. - -“We were four days travelling over a beautiful country, most of the -way prairie, and generally along near the base of a stupendous range -of mountains of reddish granite, in many places piled up to an immense -height without tree or shrubbery on them; looking as if they had -actually dropped from the clouds in such a confused mass, and all -lay where they had fallen. Such we found the mountains enclosing the -Pawnee village, on the bank of Red River, about ninety miles from the -Camanchee town. The dragoon regiment was drawn up within half a mile or -so of this village, and encamped in a square, where we remained three -days. We found here a very numerous village, containing some five or -six hundred wigwams, all made of long prairie grass, thatched over -poles which are fastened in the ground and bent in at the top; giving -to them, in distance, the appearance of straw beehives as in +plate+ -173, which is an accurate view of it, shewing the Red River in front, -and the “_mountains of rocks_” behind it. - -“To our very great surprise, we have found these people cultivating -quite extensive fields of corn (maize), pumpkins, melons, beans and -squashes; so, with these aids, and an abundant supply of buffalo meat, -they may be said to be living very well. - -“The next day after our arrival here, Colonel Dodge opened a council -with the chiefs, in the chief’s lodge, where he had the most of his -officers around him. He first explained to them the friendly views -with which he came to see them; and of the wish of our Government to -establish a lasting peace with them, which they seemed at once to -appreciate and highly to estimate. - -“The head chief of the tribe is a very old man, and he several times -replied to Colonel Dodge in a very eloquent manner; assuring him -of the friendly feelings of his chiefs and warriors towards the pale -faces, in the direction from whence we came. - -[Illustration: 173] - -“After Colonel Dodge had explained in general terms, the objects of our -visit, he told them that he should expect from them some account of the -foul murder of Judge Martin and his family on the False Washita, which -had been perpetrated but a few weeks before, and which the Camanchees -had told us was done by the Pawnee Picts. The Colonel told them, also, -that he learned from the Camanchees, that they had the little boy, -the son of the murdered gentleman, in their possession; and that he -should expect them to deliver him up, as an indispensable condition of -the friendly arrangement that was now making. They positively denied -the fact, and all knowledge of it; firmly assuring us that they knew -nothing of the murder, or of the boy. The demand was repeatedly made, -and as often denied; until at length a negro-man was discovered, who -was living with the Pawnees, who spoke good English; and coming into -the council-house, gave information that such a boy had recently been -brought into their village, and was now a prisoner amongst them. This -excited great surprise and indignation in the council, and Colonel -Dodge then informed the chiefs that the council would rest here; and -certainly nothing further of a peaceable nature would transpire until -the boy was brought in. In this alarming dilemma, all remained in -gloomy silence for awhile; when Colonel Dodge further informed the -chiefs, that as an evidence of his friendly intentions towards them, -he had, on starting, purchased at a very great price, from their -enemies the Osages, two Pawnee (and one Kiowa) girls; which had been -held by them for some years as prisoners, and which he had brought the -whole way home, and had here ready to be delivered to their friends -and relations; but whom he certainly would never show, until the -little boy was produced. He also made another demand, which was for -the restoration of an United States ranger, by the name of Abbé, who -had been captured by them during the summer before. They acknowledged -the seizure of this man, and all solemnly declared that he had been -taken by a party of the Camanchees, over whom they had no controul, -and carried beyond the Red River into the Mexican provinces, where -he was put to death. They held a long consultation about the boy, -and seeing their plans defeated by the evidence of the negro; and -also being convinced of the friendly disposition of the Colonel, by -bringing home their prisoners from the Osages, they sent out and had -the boy brought in, from the middle of a corn-field, where he had been -secreted. He is a smart and very intelligent boy of nine years of -age, and when he came in, he was entirely naked, as they keep their -own boys of that age. There was a great excitement in the council -when the little fellow was brought in; and as he passed amongst them, -he looked around and exclaimed with some surprise, “What! are there -white men here?” to which Colonel Dodge replied, and asked his name; -and he promptly answered, “my name is Matthew Wright Martin.” He was -then received into Colonel Dodge’s arms; and an order was immediately -given for the Pawnee and Kiowa girls to be brought forward; they were -in a few minutes brought into the council-house, when they were at -once recognized by their friends and relatives, who embraced them with -the most extravagant expressions of joy and satisfaction. The heart -of the venerable old chief was melted at this evidence of white man’s -friendship, and he rose upon his feet, and taking Colonel Dodge in his -arms, and placing his left cheek against the left cheek of the Colonel, -held him for some minutes without saying a word, whilst tears were -flowing from his eyes. He then embraced each officer in turn, in the -same silent and affectionate manner; which form took half an hour or -more, before it was completed.[9] - -“From this moment the council, which before had been a very grave and -uncertain one, took a pleasing and friendly turn. And this excellent -old man ordered the women to supply the dragoons with something to eat, -as they were hungry. - -“The little encampment, which heretofore was in a woeful condition, -having eaten up their last rations twelve hours before, were now -gladdened by the approach of a number of women, who brought their -“back loads” of dried buffalo meat and green corn, and threw it down -amongst them. This seemed almost like a providential deliverance, for -the country between here and the Camanchees, was entirely destitute of -game, and our last provisions were consumed. - -“The council thus proceeded successfully and pleasantly for several -days, whilst the warriors of the Kiowas and Wicos, two adjoining and -friendly tribes living further to the West, were arriving; and also a -great many from other bands of the Camanchees, who had heard of our -arrival; until two thousand or more of these wild and fearless-looking -fellows were assembled, and all, from their horses’ backs, with -weapons in hand, were looking into our pitiful little encampment, -of two hundred men, all in a state of dependence and almost literal -starvation; and at the same time nearly one half the number too sick to -have made a successful resistance if we were to have been attacked.” * -* * * * * * * * * * - -The command returned to this village after an absence of fifteen days, -in a fatigued and destitute condition, with scarcely anything to eat, -or chance of getting anything here; in consequence of which, Colonel -Dodge almost instantly ordered preparations to be made for a move to -the head of the Canadian river, a distance of an hundred or more miles, -where the Indians represented to us there would be found immense herds -of buffaloes; a place where we could get enough to eat, and by lying by -awhile, could restore the sick, who are now occupying a great number of -litters. Some days have elapsed, however, and we are not quite -ready for the start yet. And during that time, continual parties of the -Pawnee Picts and Kioways have come up; and also Camanchees, from other -villages, to get a look at us, and many of them are volunteering to go -in with us to the frontier. - -[Illustration: 174 175] - -[Illustration: 176 177] - -[Illustration: 178 179] - -[Illustration: 180 181] - -[Illustration: 182] - -[Illustration: 183] - -The world who know me, will see that I can scarcely be idle under such -circumstances as these, where so many subjects for my brush and my pen -are gathering about me. - -The Pawnee Picts, Kioways, and Wicos are the subjects that I am most -closely scanning at this moment, and I have materials enough around me. - -The Pawnee Picts are undoubtedly a numerous and powerful tribe, -occupying, with the Kioways and Wicos, the whole country on the head -waters of the Red River, and quite into and through the southern part -of the Rocky Mountains. The old chief told me by signs, enumerating -with his hands and fingers, that they had altogether three thousand -warriors; which if true, estimating according to the usual rule, one -warrior to four, would make the whole number about twelve thousand; -and, allowing a fair per-centage for boasting or bragging, of which -they are generally a little guilty in such cases, there would be at -a fair calculation from eight to ten thousand. These then, in an -established alliance with the great tribe of Camanchees, hunting and -feasting together, and ready to join in common defence of their country -become a very formidable enemy when attacked on their own ground. - -The name of the Pawnee Picts, we find to be in their own language, -Tow-ee-ahge, the meaning of which I have not yet learned. I have -ascertained also, that these people are in no way related to the -Pawnees of the Platte, who reside a thousand miles or more North of -them, and know them only as enemies. There is no family or tribal -resemblance; nor any in their language or customs. The Pawnees of the -Platte shave the head, and the Pawnee Picts abominate the custom; -allowing their hair to grow like the Camanchees and other tribes. - -The old chief of the Pawnee Picts, of whom I have before spoken, and -whose name is We-ta-ra-sha-ro (+plate+ 174), is undoubtedly a very -excellent and kind-hearted old man, of ninety or more years of age, -and has consented to accompany us, with a large party of his people, -to Fort Gibson; where Colonel Dodge has promised to return him liberal -presents from the Government, for the friendship he has evinced on the -present occasion. - -The second chief of this tribe, Sky-se-ro-ka (+plate+ 175), we found to -be a remarkably clever man, and much approved and valued in his tribe. - -The Pawnee Picts, as well as the Camanchees, are generally a very -clumsy and ordinary looking set of men, when on their feet; but being -fine horsemen, are equally improved in appearance as soon as they mount -upon their horses’ backs. - -Amongst the women of this tribe, there were many that were exceedingly -pretty in feature and in form; and also in expression, though their -skins are very dark. The dress of the men in this tribe, as amongst -the Camanchees, consists generally in leggings of dressed skins, and -moccasins; with a flap or breech clout, made also of dressed skins or -furs, and often very beautifully ornamented with shells, &c. Above the -waist they seldom wear any drapery, owing to the warmth of the climate, -which will rarely justify it; and their heads are generally uncovered -with a head-dress, like the Northern tribes who live in a colder -climate, and actually require them for comfort. - -The women of the Camanchees and Pawnee Picts, are always decently and -comfortably clad, being covered generally with a gown or slip, that -reaches from the chin quite down to the ancles, made of deer or elk -skins; often garnished very prettily, and ornamented with long fringes -of elk’s teeth, which are fastened on them in rows, and more highly -valued than any other ornament they can put upon them. - -In +plates+ 176 and 177, I have given the portraits of two Pawnee -girls, Kah-kee-tsee (the thighs), and She-de-a (wild sage), the -two Pawnee women who had been held as prisoners by the Osages, and -purchased by the Indian Commissioner, the Reverend Mr. Schemmerhom, and -brought home to their own people, and delivered up in the Pawnee town, -in the manner that I have just described. - -The Kioways are a much finer looking race of men, than either the -Camanchees or Pawnees—are tall and erect, with an easy and graceful -gait—with long hair, cultivated oftentimes so as to reach nearly to -the ground. They have generally the fine and Roman outline of head, -that is so frequently found at the North,—and decidedly distinct from -that of the Camanchees and Pawnee Picts. These men speak a language -distinct from both of the others; and in fact, the Camanchees and -Pawnee Picts—and Kioways, and Wicos, are all so distinctly different -in their languages, as to appear in that respect as total strangers to -each other.[10] - -The head chief of the Kioways, whose name is Teh-toot-sah (+plate+ -178), we found to be a very gentlemanly and high minded man, who -treated the dragoons and officers with great kindness while in his -country. His long hair, which was put up in several large clubs, and -ornamented with a great many silver broaches, extended quite down to -his knees. This distinguished man, as well as several others of his -tribe, have agreed to join us on the march to Fort Gibson; so I shall -have much of their company yet, and probably much more to say of -them at a future period. Bon-son-gee (the new fire, +plate+ 179) is -another chief of this tribe, and called a very good man; the principal -ornaments which he carried on his person were a boar’s tusk and his -war-whistle, which were hanging on his breast. - -Quay-ham-kay (the stone shell, +plate+ 180), is another fair specimen -of the warriors of this tribe; and, if I mistake not, somewhat allied -to the mysteries and arcana of the healing art, from the close company -he keeps with my friend Dr. Findley, who is surgeon to the regiment, -and by whom I have been employed to make a copy of my portrait of this -distinguished personage. - -In +plate+ 181, Wun-pan-to-mee (the white weasel), a girl; and -Tunk-aht-oh-ye (the thunderer), a boy; who are brother and sister, -are two Kioways who were purchased from the Osages, to be taken to -their tribe by the dragoons. The girl was taken the whole distance -with us, on horseback, to the Pawnee village, and there delivered to -her friends, as I have before mentioned; and the fine little boy was -killed at the Fur Trader’s house on the banks of the Verdigris, near -Fort Gibson, the day after I painted his portrait, and only a few days -before he was to have started with us on the march. He was a beautiful -boy of nine or ten years of age, and was killed by a ram, which struck -him in the abdomen, and knocking him against a fence, killed him -instantly. - -Kots-a-to-ah (the smoked shield, +plate+ 182), is another of the -extraordinary men of this tribe, near seven feet in stature, and -distinguished, not only as one of the greatest warriors, but the -swiftest on foot, in the nation. This man, it is said, runs down a -buffalo on foot, and slays it with his knife or his lance, as he runs -by its side! - -In +plate+ 183, is the portrait of Ush-ee-kitz (he who fights with a -feather) head chief of the Wi-co tribe, a very polite and polished -Indian, in his manners, and remarkable for his mode of _embracing_ the -officers and others in council. - -In the different talks and councils that we have had with these people, -this man has been a conspicuous speaker; and always, at the end of -his speeches, has been in the habit of stepping forward and embracing -friends and foes, all that were about him, taking each one in turn, -closely and affectionately in his arms, with his left cheek against -theirs, and thus holding them tightly for several minutes. - -All the above chiefs and braves, and many others, forming a very -picturesque cavalcade, will move off with us in a day or two, on our -way back to Fort Gibson, where it is to be hoped we may arrive more -happy than we are in our present jaded and sickly condition. - - [9] The little boy of whom I have spoken, was brought in the whole - distance to Fort Gibson, in the arms of the dragoons, who took - turns in carrying him; and after the command arrived there, he was - transmitted to the Red River, by an officer, who had the enviable - satisfaction of delivering him into the arms of his disconsolate - and half-distracted mother. - - - [10] I have several times, in former parts of this work, spoken - of the great number of different Indian languages which I have - visited, and given my opinion, as to the dissimilarity and - distinctness of their character. And would refer the reader for - further information on this subject, as well as for a vocabulary of - several languages, to the Appendix to this Volume, letter B. - - - - - LETTER—No. 44. - - CAMP CANADIAN, _TEXAS_. - - -Six days of severe travelling have brought us from the Camanchee -village to the North bank of the Canadian, where we are snugly encamped -on a beautiful plain, and in the midst of countless numbers of -buffaloes; and halting a few days to recruit our horses and men, and -dry meat to last us the remainder of our journey. - -The plains around this, for many miles, seem actually speckled in -distance, and in every direction, with herds of grazing buffaloes; and -for several days, the officers and men have been indulged in a general -licence to gratify their sporting propensities; and a scene of bustle -and cruel slaughter it has been, to be sure! From morning till night, -the camp has been daily almost deserted; the men have dispersed in -little squads in all directions, and are dealing death to these poor -creatures to a most cruel and wanton extent, merely for the pleasure of -_destroying_, generally without stopping to cut out the meat. During -yesterday and this day, several hundreds have undoubtedly been killed, -and not so much as the flesh of half a dozen used. Such immense swarms -of them are spread over this tract of country; and so divided and -terrified have they become, finding their enemies in all directions -where they run, that the poor beasts seem completely bewildered—running -here and there, and as often as otherwise, come singly advancing to -the horsemen, as if to join them for their company, and are easily -shot down. In the turmoil and confusion, when their assailants have -been pushing them forward, they have galloped through our encampment, -jumping over our fires, upsetting pots and kettles, driving horses from -their fastenings, and throwing the whole encampment into the greatest -instant consternation and alarm. The hunting fever will be satiated in -a few days amongst the young men, who are well enough to take parts in -the chase; and the bilious fever, it is to be hoped, will be abated in -a short time, amongst those who are invalid, and meat enough will be -dried to last us to Fort Gibson, when we shall be on the march again, -and wending our way towards that garrison. - -Many are now sick and unable to ride, and are carried on litters -between two horses. Nearly every tent belonging to the officers has -been converted to hospitals for the sick; and sighs and groaning are -heard in all directions. From the Camanchee village to this place, the -country has been entirely prairie; and most of the way high and dry -ground, without water, for which we sometimes suffered very much. From -day to day we have dragged along exposed to the hot and burning rays of -the sun, without a cloud to relieve its intensity, or a bush to shade -us, or anything to cast a shadow, except the bodies of our horses. The -grass for a great part of the way, was very much dried up, scarcely -affording a bite for our horses; and sometimes for the distance of -many miles, the only water we could find, was in stagnant pools, lying -on the highest ground, in which the buffaloes have been lying and -wallowing like hogs in a mud-puddle. We frequently came to these dirty -lavers, from which we drove the herds of wallowing buffaloes, and into -which our poor and almost dying horses, irresistibly ran and plunged -their noses, sucking up the dirty and poisonous draught, until, in some -instances, they fell dead in their tracks—the men also (and oftentimes -amongst the number, the writer of these lines) sprang from their -horses, and laded up and drank to almost fatal excess, the disgusting -and tepid draught, and with it filled their canteens, which were slung -to their sides, and from which they were sucking the bilious contents -during the day. - -In our march we found many deep ravines, in the bottoms of which there -were the marks of wild and powerful streams; but in this season of -drought they were all dried up, except an occasional one, where we -found them dashing along in the coolest and clearest manner, and on -trial, to our great agony, so _salt_ that even our horses could not -drink from them; so we had occasionally the tantalizing pleasure of -hearing the roar of, and looking into, the clearest and most sparkling -streams; and after that the dire necessity of drinking from stagnant -pools which lay from month to month exposed to the rays of the sun, -till their waters become so poisonous and heavy, from the loss of their -vital principle, that they are neither diminished by absorption, or -taken into the atmosphere by evaporation. - -This poisonous and indigestible water, with the intense rays of the -sun in the hottest part of the summer, is the cause of the unexampled -sickness of the horses and men. Both appear to be suffering and dying -with the same disease, a slow and distressing bilious fever, which -seems to terminate in a most frightful and fatal affection of the liver. - -In these several cruel days’ march, I have suffered severely, having -had all the time (and having yet) a distracting fever on me. My real -friend, Joe, has constantly rode by my side, dismounting and filling my -canteen for me, and picking up minerals or fossils, which my jaundiced -eyes were able to discover as we were passing over them; or doing other -kind offices for me, when I was too weak to mount my horse without -aid. During this march over these dry and parched plains, we picked up -many curious things of the fossil and mineral kind, and besides them -a number of the horned frogs. In our portmanteaux we had a number of -tin boxes in which we had carried Seidlitz powders, in which we caged -a number of them safely, in hopes to carry them home alive. Several -remarkable specimens my friend Joe has secured of these, with the horns -of half and three-fourths of an inch in length, and very sharp at the -points. - -These curious subjects have so often fallen under my eye while on the -Upper Missouri, that with me, they have lost their novelty in a great -degree; but they have amused and astonished my friend Chadwick so -much, that he declares he will take every one he can pick up, and make -a sensation with them when he gets home. In this way Joe’s fancy for -horned frogs has grown into a sort of _frog-mania_, and his eyes are -strained all day, and gazing amongst the grass and pebbles as he rides -along, for his precious little prizes, which he occasionally picks up -and consigns to his pockets.[11] - -On one of these hard day’s march, and just at night, whilst we were -looking out for water, and a suitable place to encamp, Joe and I -galloped off a mile or two to the right of the regiment, to a point of -timber, to look for water, where we found a small and sunken stagnant -pool; and as our horses plunged their feet into it to drink, we saw -to our great surprise, a number of frogs hopping across its surface, -as our horses started them from the shore! Several of them stopped in -the middle of the pool, sitting quite “high and dry” on the surface of -the water; and when we approached them nearer, or jostled them, they -made a leap into the air, and coming down head foremost—went under the -water and secreted themselves at the bottom. Here was a subject for -Joe, in his own line! frogs with horns, and frogs with _webbed feet_, -that could hop about, and sit upon, the surface of the water! We rode -around the pool and drove a number of them into it, and fearing that -it would be useless to try to get one of them that evening; we rode -back to the encampment, exulting very much in the curious discovery -we had made for the naturalists; and by relating to some of the -officers what we had seen, got excessively laughed at for our wonderful -discovery! Nevertheless, Joe and I could not disbelieve what we had -seen so distinctly “with our own eyes;” and we took to ourselves (or -in other words, I acquiesced in Joe’s taking to _himself_, as it was -so peculiarly in his line) the most unequivocal satisfaction in the -curious and undoubted discovery of this new variety; and we made our -arrangements to ride back to the spot before “_bugle call_” in the -morning; and by a thorough effort, to obtain a specimen or two of the -web-footed frogs for Joe’s pocket, to be by him introduced to the -consideration of the knowing ones in the East. Well, our horses were -saddled at an early hour, and Joe and I were soon on the spot—and he -with a handkerchief at the end of a little pole, with which he had -made a sort of scoop-net, soon dipped one up as it was hopping along -on the surface of the water, and making unsuccessful efforts to dive -through its surface. On examining its feet, we found, to our very great -surprise, that we had taken a great deal of pains to entrap an old -and familiar little acquaintance of our boyhood; but, somewhat like -ourselves, unfortunately, from dire necessity, driven to a loathsome -pool, where the water was so foul and slimy, that it could hop and -dance about its surface with dry feet; and where it oftentimes found -difficulty in diving through the surface to hide itself at the bottom. - -I laughed a great deal at poor Joe’s most cruel expense, and we amused -ourselves a few minutes about this filthy and curious pool, and rode -back to the encampment. We found by taking the water up in the hollow -of the hand, and dipping the finger in it, and drawing it over the -side, thus conducting a little of it out; it was so slimy that the -whole would run over the side of the hand in a moment! - -We were joked and teased a great deal about our _web-footed frogs_; and -after this, poor Joe has had repeatedly to take out and exhibit his -little pets in his pockets, to convince our travelling companions that -_frogs sometimes actually have horns_. - -Since writing the above, an express has arrived from the encampment, -which we left at the mouth of False Washita, with the melancholy -tidings of the death of General Leavenworth, Lieutenant M‘Clure, and -ten or fifteen of the men left at that place! This has cast a gloom -over our little encampment here, and seems to be received as a fatal -foreboding by those who are sick with the same disease; and many of -them, poor fellows, with scarce a hope left now for their recovery. - -It seems that the General had moved on our trail a few days after we -left the Washita, to the “Cross Timbers,” a distance of fifty or sixty -miles, where his disease at last terminated his existence; and I am -inclined to think, as I before mentioned, in consequence of the injury -he sustained in a fall from his horse when running a buffalo calf. My -reason for believing this, is, that I rode and ate with him every day -after the hour of his fall; and from that moment I was quite sure that -I saw a different expression in his face, from that which he naturally -wore; and when riding by the side of him two or three days after his -fall, I observed to him, “General, you have a very bad cough”—“Yes,” -he replied, “I have killed myself in running that devilish calf; and -it was a very lucky thing, Catlin, that you painted the portrait of me -before we started, for it is all that my dear wife will ever see of me.” - -We shall be on the move again in a few days; and I plainly see that -I shall be upon a litter, unless my horrid fever leaves me, which is -daily taking away my strength, and almost, at times, my senses. Adieu! - - [11] Several months after this, when I visited my friend Joe’s room - in St. Louis, he shewed me his horned frogs in their little tin - boxes, in good flesh and good condition, where they had existed - several months, without food of any kind. - - - - - LETTER—No. 45. - - FORT GIBSON, _ARKANSAS_. - - -The last Letter was written from my tent, and out upon the wild -prairies, when I was shaken and _terrified_ by a burning fever, with -home and my dear wife and little one, two thousand miles ahead of me, -whom I was despairing of ever embracing again. I am now scarcely better -off, except that I am in comfortable quarters, with kind attendance, -and friends about me. I am yet sick and very feeble, having been for -several weeks upon my back since I was brought in from the prairies. -I am slowly recovering, and for the first time since I wrote from the -Canadian, able to use my pen or my brush. - -We drew off from that slaughtering ground a few days after my last -Letter was written, with a great number sick carried upon litters—with -horses giving out and dying by the way, which much impeded our progress -over the long and tedious route that laid between us and Fort Gibson. -Fifteen days, however, of constant toil and fatigue brought us here, -but in a most crippled condition. Many of the sick were left by the -way with attendants to take care of them, others were buried from -their litters on which they breathed their last while travelling, and -many others were brought in, to this place, merely to die and get the -privilege of a decent burial. - -Since the very day of our start into that country, the men have been -constantly falling sick, and on their return, of those who are alive, -there are not well ones enough to take care of the sick. Many are -yet left out upon the prairies, and of those that have been brought -in, and quartered in the hospital, with the soldiers of the infantry -regiment stationed here, four or five are buried daily; and as an equal -number from the 9th regiment are falling by the same disease, I have -the mournful sound of “Roslin Castle” with muffled drums, passing six -or eight times a-day under my window, to the burying-ground; which is -but a little distance in front of my room, where I can lay in my bed -and see every poor fellow lowered down into his silent and peaceful -habitation. During the day before yesterday, no less than eight solemn -processions visited that insatiable ground, and amongst them was -carried the corpse of my intimate and much-loved friend Lieutenant -West, who was aid-de-camp to General Leavenworth, on this disastrous -campaign, and who has left in this place, a worthy and distracted -widow, with her little ones to mourn for his untimely end. On the -same day was buried also the Prussian Botanist, a most excellent and -scientific gentleman, who had obtained an order from the Secretary at -War to accompany the expedition for scientific purposes. He had at St. -Louis, purchased a very comfortable dearborn waggon, and a snug span -of little horses to convey himself and his servant with his collection -of plants, over the prairies. In this he travelled in company with the -regiment from St. Louis to Fort Gibson some five or six hundred miles -and from that to the False Washita, and the Cross Timbers and back -again. In this Tour he had made an immense, and no doubt, very valuable -collection of plants, and at this place had been for some weeks -indefatigably engaged in changing and drying them, and at last, fell -a victim to the disease of the country, which seemed to have made an -easy conquest of him, from the very feeble and enervated state he was -evidently in, that of pulmonary consumption. This fine, gentlemanly and -urbane, excellent man, to whom I became very much attached, was lodged -in a room adjoining to mine, where he died, as he had lived, peaceably -and smiling, and that when nobody knew that his life was in immediate -danger. The surgeon who was attending me, (Dr. Wright,) was sitting on -my bedside in his morning-call at my room, when a negro boy, who alone -had been left in the room with him, came into my apartment and said Mr. -Beyrich was dying—we instantly stepped into his room and found him, -not in the _agonies_ of death, but quietly breathing his last, without -a word or a struggle, as he had laid himself upon his bed with his -clothes and his boots on. In this way perished this worthy man, who had -no one here of kindred friends to drop tears for him; and on the day -previous to his misfortune, died also, and much in the same way, his -devoted and faithful servant, a young man, a native of Germany. Their -bodies were buried by the side of each other, and a general feeling of -deep grief was manifested by the officers and citizens of the post, -in the respect that was paid to their remains in the appropriate and -decent committal of them to the grave. - -After leaving the head waters of the Canadian, my illness continually -increased, and losing strength every day, I soon got so reduced that -I was necessarily lifted on to and off from, my horse; and at last, -so that I could not ride at all. I was then put into a baggage-waggon -which was going back empty, except with several soldiers sick, and -in this condition rode eight days, most of the time in a delirious -state, lying on the hard planks of the waggon, and made still harder by -the jarring and jolting, until the skin from my elbows and knees was -literally worn through, and I almost “_worn out_;” when we at length -reached this post, and I was taken to a bed, in comfortable quarters, -where I have had the skilful attendance of my friend and old schoolmate -Dr. Wright, under whose hands, thank God, I have been restored, and am -now daily recovering my flesh and usual strength. - -The experiment has thus been made, of sending an army of men from the -North, into this Southern and warm climate, in the hottest months of -the year, of July and August; and from this sad experiment I am sure a -secret will be learned that will be of value on future occasions. - -Of the 450 fine fellows who started from this place four months since, -about one-third have already died, and I believe many more there -are whose fates are sealed, and will yet fall victims to the deadly -diseases contracted in that fatal country. About this post it seems to -be almost equally unhealthy, and generally so during this season, all -over this region, which is probably owing to an unusual drought which -has been visited on the country, and unknown heretofore to the oldest -inhabitants. - -Since we came in from the prairies, and the sickness has a little -abated, we have had a bustling time with the Indians at this place. -Colonel Dodge sent _runners_ to the chiefs of all the contiguous tribes -of Indians, with an invitation to meet the Pawnees, &c. in council, at -this place. Seven or eight tribes flocked to us, in great numbers on -the first day of the month, when the council commenced; it continued -for several days, and gave these semi-civilized sons of the forest a -fair opportunity of shaking the hands of their wild and untamed red -brethren of the West—of embracing them in their arms, with expressions -of friendship, and of smoking the calumet together, as the solemn -pledge of lasting peace and friendship. - -Colonel Dodge, Major Armstrong (the Indian agent), and General Stokes -(the Indian commissioner), presided at this council, and I cannot name -a scene more interesting and entertaining than it was; where, for -several days in succession, free vent was given to the feelings of -men _civilized_, _half-civilized_, and _wild_; where the three stages -of man were fearlessly asserting their rights, their happiness, and -friendship for each other. The vain orations of the half-polished (and -half-breed) Cherokees and Choctaws, with all their finery and art, -found their match in the brief and jarring gutturals of the wild and -naked man. - -After the council had adjourned, and the fumes of the peace-making -calumet had vanished away, and Colonel Dodge had made them additional -presents, they soon made preparations for their departure, and on -the next day started, with an escort of dragoons, for their own -country. This movement is much to be regretted; for it would have been -exceedingly gratifying to the people of the East to have seen so wild a -group, and it would have been of great service to them to have visited -Washington—a journey, though, which they could not be prevailed upon to -make. - -We brought with us to this place, three of the principal chiefs of -the Pawnees, fifteen Kioways, one Camanchee, and one Wi-co chief. The -group was undoubtedly one of the most interesting that ever visited our -frontier; and, I have taken the utmost pains in painting the portraits -of all of them, as well as seven of the Camanchee chiefs, who came part -of the way with us, and turned back. These portraits, together with -other paintings which I have made, descriptive of their manners and -customs—views of their villages—landscapes of the country, &c., will -soon be laid before the amateurs of the East, and, I trust, will be -found to be very interesting. - -Although the achievement has been a handsome one, of bringing these -unknown people to an acquaintance, and a general peace; and at first -sight would appear to be of great benefit to them—yet I have my strong -doubts, whether it will better their condition, unless with the -exercised aid of the strong arm of Government, they can be protected in -the rights which by nature, they are entitled to. - -There is already in this place a company of eighty men fitted out, who -are to start to-morrow, to overtake these Indians a few miles from -this place, and accompany them home, with a large stock of goods, with -traps for catching beavers, &c., calculating to build a trading-house -amongst them, where they will amass, at once, an immense fortune, being -the first traders and trappers that have ever been in that part of the -country. - -I have travelled too much among Indian tribes, and seen too much, not -to know the evil consequences of such a system. Goods are sold at -such exorbitant prices, that the Indian gets a mere shadow for his -peltries, &c. The Indians see no white people but traders and sellers -of whiskey; and of course, judge us all by them—they consequently -hold us, and always will, in contempt; as inferior to themselves, as -they have reason to do—and they neither fear nor respect us. When, -on the contrary, if the Government would promptly prohibit such -establishments, and invite these Indians to our frontier posts, they -would bring in their furs, their robes, horses, mules, &c., to this -place, where there is a good market for them all—where they would -get the full value of their property—where there are several stores -of goods—where there is an honourable competition, and where they -would get four or five times as much for their articles of trade, -as they would get from a trader in the village, out of the reach of -competition, and out of sight of the civilized world. - -At the same time, as they would be continually coming where they -would see good and polished society, they would be gradually adopting -our modes of living—introducing to their country our vegetables, -our domestic animals, poultry, &c., and at length, our arts and -manufactures; they would see and estimate our military strength, and -advantages, and would be led to fear and respect us. In short, it would -undoubtedly be the quickest and surest way to a general acquaintance—to -friendship and peace, and at last to civilization. If there is a law in -existence for such protection of the Indian tribes, which may have been -waived in the case of those nations with which we have long traded, it -is a great pity that it should not be rigidly enforced in this new and -important acquaintance, which we have just made with thirty or forty -thousand strangers to the civilized world; yet (as we have learned -from their unaffected hospitality when in their villages), with hearts -of human mould, _susceptible_ of all the noble feelings belonging to -civilized man. - -This acquaintance has cost the United States a vast sum of money, as -well as the lives of several valuable and esteemed officers and more -than 100 of the dragoons; and for the honour of the American name, I -think we ought, in forming an acquaintance with these numerous tribes, -to adopt and _enforce_ some different system from that which has been -generally practiced on and beyond our frontiers heretofore. - -What the regiment of dragoons has suffered from sickness since they -started on their summer’s campaign is unexampled in this country, and -almost incredible.—When we started from this place, ten or fifteen were -sent back the first day, too sick to proceed; and so afterwards our -numbers were daily diminished, and at the distance of 200 miles from -this place we could muster, out of the whole regiment, but 250 men who -were able to proceed, with which little band, and that again reduced -some sixty or seventy by sickness, we pushed on, and accomplished -all that was done. The beautiful and pictured scenes which we passed -over had an alluring charm on their surface, but (as it would seem) -a lurking poison within, that spread a gloom about our encampment -whenever we pitched it. - -We sometimes rode day after day, without a tree to shade us from the -burning rays of a tropical sun, or a breath of wind to regale us or -cheer our hearts—and with mouths continually parched with thirst, we -dipped our drink from stagnant pools that were heated by the sun, and -kept in fermentation by the wallowing herds of buffaloes that resort -to them. In this way we dragged on, sometimes passing picturesque and -broken country, with fine springs and streams, affording us the luxury -of a refreshing shade and a cool draught of water. - -Thus was dragged through and completed this most disastrous campaign; -and to Colonel Dodge and Colonel Kearney, who so indefatigably led and -encouraged their men through it, too much praise cannot be awarded. - -During my illness while I have been at this post, my friend Joe has -been almost constantly by my bedside; evincing (as he did when we were -creeping over the vast prairies) the most sincere and intense anxiety -for my recovery; whilst he has administered, like a brother, every aid -and every comfort that lay in his power to bring. Such tried friendship -as this, I shall ever recollect; and it will long hence and often, lead -my mind back to retrace, at least, the first part of our campaign, -which was full pleasant; and many of its incidents have formed pleasing -impressions on my memory, which I would preserve to the end of my life. - -When we started, we were fresh and ardent for the incidents that -were before us—our little packhorse carried our bedding and culinary -articles; amongst which we had a coffee-pot and a frying-pan—coffee in -good store, and sugar—and wherever we spread our bear-skin, and kindled -our fire in the grass, we were sure to take by ourselves, a delightful -repast, and a refreshing sleep. During the march, as we were subject to -no military subordination, we galloped about wherever we were disposed, -popping away at whatever we chose to spend ammunition upon—and running -our noses into every wild nook and crevice, as we saw fit. In this way -we travelled happily, until our coffee was gone, and our bread; and -even then we were happy upon meat alone, until at last each one in his -turn, like every other moving thing about us, both man and beast, were -vomiting and fainting, under the poisonous influence of some latent -enemy, that was floating in the air, and threatening our destruction. -Then came the “tug of war,” and instead of catering for our amusements, -every one seemed desperately studying the means that were to support -him on his feet, and bring him safe home again to the bosoms of his -friends. In our start, our feelings were buoyant and light, and we had -the luxuries of life—the green prairies, spotted with wild flowers, and -the clear blue sky, were an earthly paradise to us, until fatigue and -disease, and at last despair, made them tiresome and painful to our -jaundiced eyes. - -On our way, and while we were in good heart, my friend Joe and I had -picked up many minerals and fossils of an interesting nature, which we -put in our portmanteaux and carried for weeks, with much pains, and -some _pain_ also, until the time when our ardour cooled and our spirits -lagged, and then we discharged and threw them away; and sometimes we -came across specimens again, still more wonderful, which we put in -their place, and lugged along till we were tired of _them_, and their -weight, and we discharged them as before; so that from our eager desire -to procure, we lugged many pounds weight of stones, shells, &c. nearly -the whole way, and were glad that their mother Earth should receive -them again at our hands, which was done long before we got back. - -One of the most curious places we met in all our route, was a -mountain ridge of fossil shells, from which a great number of the -above-mentioned specimens were taken. During our second day’s march -from the mouth of the False Washita, we were astonished to find -ourselves travelling over a bed of clam and oyster shells, which were -all in a complete state of petrifaction. This ridge, which seemed to -run from N.E. to S.W. was several hundred feet high, and varying from a -quarter to half a mile in breadth, seemed to be composed of nothing but -a concretion of shells, which, on the surface, exposed to the weather -for the depth of eight or ten inches, were entirely separated from the -cementing material which had held them together, and were lying on the -surface, sometimes for acres together, without a particle of soil or -grass upon them; with the colour, shapes and appearance exactly, of the -natural shells, lying loosely together, into which our horses’ feet -were sinking at every step, above their fetterlocks. These I consider -the most extraordinary petrifactions I ever beheld. In any way they -could be seen, individually or in the mass together, they seemed to -be nothing but the _pure shells themselves_, both in colour and in -shape. In many instances we picked them up entire, never having been -opened; and taking our knives out, and splitting them open as we would -an oyster, the fish was seen petrified in perfect form, and by dipping -it into water, it shewed all the colours and freshness of an oyster -just opened and laid on a plate to be eaten. Joe and I had carefully -tied up many of these, with which we felt quite sure we could deceive -our oyster-eating friends when we got back to the East; yet, like many -other things we collected, they shared the fate that I have mentioned, -without our bringing home one of them, though we brought many of them -several hundreds of miles, and at last threw them away. This remarkable -ridge is in some parts covered with grass, but generally with mere -scattering bunches, for miles together, partially covering this compact -mass of shells, forming (in my opinion) one of the greatest geological -curiosities now to be seen in this country, as it lies evidently some -thousands of feet above the level of the ocean, and seven or eight -hundred miles from the nearest point on the sea-coast. - -In another section of the country, lying between Fort Gibson and the -Washita, we passed over a ridge for several miles, running parallel to -this, where much of the way there was no earth or grass under foot, but -our horses were travelling on a solid rock, which had on its surface -a reddish or oxidized appearance; and on getting from my horse and -striking it with my hatchet, I found it to contain sixty or eighty per -cent of solid iron, which produced a ringing noise, and a rebounding of -the hatchet, as if it were struck upon an anvil. - -In other parts, and farther West, between the Camanchee village and the -Canadian, we passed over a similar surface for many miles denuded, with -the exception of here and there little bunches of grass and wild sage, -a level and exposed surface of solid gypsum, of a dark grey colour: and -through it, occasionally, as far as the eye could discover, to the East -and the West streaks of three and five inches wide of snowy gypsum, -which was literally as white as the drifted snow. - -Of saltpetre and salt, there are also endless supplies; so it will -be seen that the mineral resources of this wilderness country are -inexhaustible and rich, and that the idle savage who never converts -them to his use, must soon yield them to the occupation of enlightened -and cultivating man. - -In the vicinity of this post there are an immense number of Indians, -most of whom have been removed to their present locations by the -Government, from their Eastern original positions, within a few -years past; and previous to my starting with the dragoons, I had two -months at my leisure in this section of the country, which I used -in travelling about with my canvass and note-book, and visiting all -of them in their villages. I have made many paintings amongst them, -and have a curious note-book to open at a future day, for which the -reader may be prepared. The tribes whom I thus visited, and of whom my -note-book will yet speak, are the _Cherokees_, _Choctaws_, _Creeks_, -_Seminoles_, _Chickasaws_, _Quapaws_, _Senecas_, _Delawares_, and -several others, whose customs are interesting, and whose history, from -their proximity to, and dealings with the civilized community, is one -of great interest, and some importance, to the enlightened world. -Adieu. - - - - - LETTER—No. 46. - - ALTON, _ILLINOIS_. - - -A few days after the date of the above Letter, I took leave of Fort -Gibson, and made a transit across the prairies to this place, a -distance of 550 miles, which I have performed entirely alone, and had -the satisfaction of joining my wife, whom I have found in good health, -in a family of my esteemed friends, with whom she has been residing -during my last year of absence. - -While at Fort Gibson, on my return from the Camanchees, I was quartered -for a month or two in a room with my fellow-companion in misery, -Captain Wharton, of the dragoons, who had come in from the prairies in -a condition very similar to mine, and laid in a bed in the opposite -corner of the room; where we laid for several weeks, like two grim -ghosts, rolling our glaring and staring eye-balls upon each other, when -we were totally unable to hold converse, other than that which was -exchanged through the expressive language of our hollow, and bilious, -sunken eyes. - -The Captain had been sent with a company of dragoons to escort the -Santa Fee Traders through the country of the Camanchees and Pawnees, -and had returned from a rapid and bold foray into the country, with -many of his men sick, and himself attacked with the epidemic of the -country. The Captain is a gentleman of high and noble bearing, of -one of the most respected families in Philadelphia, with a fine and -chivalrous feeling; but with scarce physical stamina sufficient to bear -him up under the rough vicissitudes of his wild and arduous sort of -life in this country. - -As soon as our respective surgeons had clarified our flesh and our -bones with calomel, had brought our pulses to beat calmly, our tongues -to ply gently, and our stomachs to digest moderately; we began to feel -pleasure exquisitely in our convalescence, and draw amusement from -mutual relations of scenes and adventures we had witnessed on our -several marches. The Captain convalescing faster than I did, soon got -so as to eat (but not to digest) enormous meals, which visited back -upon him the renewed horrors of his disease; and I, who had got ahead -of him in strength, but not in prudence, was thrown back in my turn, -by similar indulgence; and so we were mutually and repeatedly, until -he at length got so as to feel strength enough to ride, and resolution -enough to swear that he would take leave of that deadly spot, and seek -restoration and health in a cooler and more congenial latitude. So he -had his horse brought up one morning, whilst he was so weak that he -could scarcely mount upon its back, and with his servant, a small negro -boy, packed on another, he steered off upon the prairies towards Fort -Leavenworth, 500 miles to the North, where his company had long since -marched. - -I remained a week or two longer, envying the Captain the good luck to -escape from that dangerous ground; and after I had gained strength -sufficient to warrant it, I made preparations to take informal leave, -and wend _my_ way also over the prairies to the Missouri, a distance of -500 miles, and most of the way a solitary wilderness. For this purpose -I had my horse “Charley” brought up from his pasture, where he had been -in good keeping during my illness, and got so fat as to form almost an -objectionable contrast to his master, with whom he was to embark on -a long and tedious journey again, over the vast and almost boundless -prairies. - -I had, like the Captain, grown into such a dread of that place, from -the scenes of death that were and had been visited upon it, that I -resolved to be off as soon as I had strength to get on to my horse, and -balance myself upon his back. For this purpose I packed up my canvass -and brushes, and other luggage, and sent them down the river to the -Mississippi, to be forwarded by steamer, to meet me at St. Louis. So, -one fine morning, Charley was brought up and saddled, and a bear-skin -and a buffalo robe being spread upon his saddle, and a coffee-pot -and tin cup tied to it also—with a few pounds of hard biscuit in my -portmanteau—with my fowling-piece in my hand, and my pistols in my -belt—with my sketch-book slung on my back, and a small pocket compass -in my pocket; I took leave of Fort Gibson, even against the advice of -my surgeon and all the officers of the garrison, who gathered around me -to bid me farewell. No argument could contend with the fixed resolve -in my own mind, that if I could get out upon the prairies, and moving -continually to the Northward, I should daily gain strength, and save -myself, possibly, from the jaws of that voracious burial-ground that -laid in front of my room; where I had for months laid and imagined -myself going with other poor fellows, whose mournful dirges were -played under my window from day to day. No one can imagine what was -the dread I felt for that place; nor the pleasure, which was extatic, -when Charley was trembling under me, and I turned him around on the top -of a prairie bluff at a mile distance, to take the last look upon it, -and thank God, as I did audibly, that I was not to be buried within -its enclosure. I said to myself, that “to die on the prairie, and be -devoured by wolves; or to fall in combat and be scalped by an Indian, -would be far more acceptable than the lingering death that would -consign me to the jaws of that insatiable grave,” for which, in the -fever and weakness of my mind, I had contracted so destructive a terror. - -So, alone, without other living being with me than my affectionate -horse Charley, I turned my face to the North, and commenced on my long -journey, with confidence full and strong, that I should gain strength -daily; and no one can ever know the pleasure of that moment, which -placed me alone, upon the boundless sea of waving grass, over which my -proud horse was prancing, and I with my life in my own hands, commenced -to steer my course to the banks of the Missouri. - -For the convalescent, rising and escaping from the gloom and horrors -of a sick bed, astride of his strong and trembling horse, carrying him -fast and safely over green fields spotted and tinted with waving wild -flowers; and through the fresh and cool breezes that are rushing about -him, as he daily shortens the distance that lies between him and his -wife and little ones, there is an exquisite pleasure yet to be learned, -by those who never have felt it. - -Day by day I thus pranced and galloped along, the whole way through -waving grass and green fields, occasionally dismounting and lying in -the grass an hour or so, until the grim shaking and chattering of -an ague chill had passed off; and through the nights, slept on my -bear-skin spread upon the grass, with my saddle for my pillow, and -my buffalo robe drawn over me for my covering. My horse Charley was -picketed near me at the end of his laso, which gave him room for his -grazing; and thus we snored and nodded away the nights, and never were -denied the doleful serenades of the gangs of sneaking wolves that were -nightly perambulating our little encampment, and stationed at a safe -distance from us at sunrise in the morning—gazing at us, and impatient -to pick up the crumbs and bones that were left, when we moved away from -our feeble fire that had faintly flickered through the night, and in -the absence of timber, had been made of dried buffalo dung, (+plate+ -184). - -This “_Charley_” was a noble animal of the Camanchee wild breed, of -a clay bank colour; and from our long and tried acquaintance, we had -become very much attached to each other, and acquired a wonderful -facility both of mutual accommodation, and of construing each other’s -views and intentions. In fact, we had been so long tried together, that -there would have seemed to the spectator almost an unity of _interest_; -and at all events, an unity of feelings on the subject of attachment, -as well as on that of mutual dependence and protection. - -I purchased this very showy and well-known animal of Colonel Burbank, -of the ninth regiment, and rode it the whole distance to the Camanchee -villages and back again; and at the time when most of the horses of the -regiment were drooping and giving out by the way—_Charley_ flourished -and came in in good flesh and good spirits. - -On this journey, while he and I were twenty-five days alone, we had -much time, and the best of circumstances, under which to learn what we -had as yet overlooked in each other’s characters, as well as to draw -great pleasure and real benefit from what we already had learned of -each other in our former travels. - -I generally halted on the bank of some little stream, at half an hour’s -sun, where feed was good for Charley, and where I could get wood to -kindle my fire, and water for my coffee. The first thing was to undress -“Charley” and drive down his picket, to which he was fastened, to graze -over a circle that he could inscribe at the end of his laso. In this -wise he busily fed himself until nightfall; and after my coffee was -made and drank, I uniformly moved him up, with his picket by my head, -so that I could lay my hand upon his laso in an instant, in case of any -alarm that was liable to drive him from me. On one of these evenings -when he was grazing as usual, he slipped the laso over his head, and -deliberately took his supper at his pleasure, wherever he chose to -prefer it, as he was strolling around. When night approached, I took -the laso in hand and endeavoured to catch him, but I soon saw that he -was determined to enjoy a little freedom; and he continually evaded -me until dark, when I abandoned the pursuit, making up my mind that I -should inevitably lose him, and be obliged to perform the rest of my -journey on foot. He had led me a chase of half a mile or more, when I -left him busily grazing, and returned to my little solitary bivouac, -and laid myself on my bear skin, and went to sleep. - -In the middle of the night I waked, whilst I was lying on my back, and -on half opening my eyes, I was instantly shocked to the soul, by the -huge figure (as I thought) of an Indian, standing over me, and in the -very instant of taking my scalp! The chill of horror that paralyzed me -for the first moment, held me still till I saw there was no need of -my moving—that my faithful horse “Charley” had “played shy” till he -had “filled his belly,” and had then moved up, from feelings of pure -affection, or from instinctive fear, or possibly, from a due share of -both, and taken his position with his forefeet at the edge of my bed, -with his head hanging directly over me, while he was standing fast -asleep! - -My nerves, which had been most violently shocked, were soon quieted, -and I fell asleep, and so continued until sunrise in the morning, when -I waked, and beheld my faithful servant at some considerable distance, -busily at work picking up his breakfast amongst the cane-brake, along -the bank of the creek. I went as busily to work, preparing my own, -which was eaten, and after it, I had another half-hour of fruitless -endeavours to catch Charley, whilst he seemed mindful of success on -the evening before, and continually tantalized me by turning around -and around, and keeping out of my reach. I recollected the conclusive -evidence of his attachment and dependence, which he had voluntarily -given in the night, and I thought I would try them in another way. So -I packed up my things and slung the saddle on my back, trailing my gun -in my hand, and started on my route. After I had advanced a quarter -of a mile, I looked back, and saw him standing with his head and tail -very high, looking alternately at me and at the spot where I had been -encamped, and left a little fire burning. In this condition he stood -and surveyed the prairies around for a while, as I continued on. -He, at length, walked with a hurried step to the spot, and seeing -everything gone, began to neigh very violently, and at last started off -at fullest speed, and overtook me, passing within a few paces of me, -and wheeling about at a few rods distance in front of me, trembling -like an aspen leaf. - -[Illustration: 184] - -I called him by his familiar name, and walked up to him with the bridle -in my hand, which I put over his head, as he held it down for me, and -the saddle on his back, as he actually stooped to receive it. I was -soon arranged, and on his back, when he started off upon his course as -if he was well contented and pleased, like his rider, with the manœuvre -which had brought us together again, and afforded us mutual relief -from our awkward positions. Though this alarming freak of “Charley’s” -passed off and terminated so satisfactorily; yet I thought such rather -dangerous ones to play, and I took good care after that night, to keep -him under my strict authority; resolving to avoid further tricks and -experiments till we got to the land of cultivated fields and steady -habits. - -On the night of this memorable day, Charley and I stopped in one of the -most lovely little valleys I ever saw, and even far more beautiful than -could have been _imagined_ by mortal man. An enchanting little lawn of -five or six acres, on the banks of a cool and rippling stream, that was -alive with fish; and every now and then, a fine brood of young ducks, -just old enough for delicious food, and too unsophisticated to avoid an -easy and simple death. This little lawn was surrounded by bunches and -copses of the most luxuriant and picturesque foliage, consisting of the -lofty bois d’arcs and elms, spreading out their huge branches, as if -offering protection to the rounded groups of cherry and plum-trees that -supported festoons of grapevines, with their purple clusters that hung -in the most tempting manner over the green carpet that was everywhere -decked out with wild flowers, of all tints and of various sizes, from -the modest wild sun-flowers, with their thousand tall and drooping -heads, to the lillies that stood, and the violets that crept beneath -them. By the side of this cool stream, Charley was fastened, and near -him my bear-skin was spread in the grass, and by it my little fire, to -which I soon brought a fine string of perch from the brook; from which, -and a broiled duck, and a delicious cup of coffee, I made my dinner -and supper, which were usually united in one meal, at half an hour’s -sun. After this I strolled about this sweet little paradise, which I -found was chosen, not only by myself, but by the wild deer, which were -repeatedly rising from their quiet lairs, and bounding out, and over -the graceful swells of the prairies which hemmed in, and framed this -little picture of sweetest tints and most masterly touches. - -The Indians also, I found, had loved it once, and left it; for here -and there were their solitary and deserted graves, which told, though -briefly, of former chaunts and sports; and perhaps, of wars and deaths, -that have once rung and echoed through this little silent vale. - -On my return to my encampment, I laid down upon my back, and looked -awhile into the blue heavens that were over me, with their pure -and milk white clouds that were passing—with the sun just setting -in the West, and the silver moon rising in the East, and renewed -the impressions of my own insignificance, as I contemplated the -incomprehensible mechanism of that _wonderful clock_, whose time is -infallible, and whose motion is eternity! I trembled, at last, at the -dangerous expanse of my thoughts, and turned them again, and my eyes, -upon the little and more comprehensible things that were about me. One -of the first was a _newspaper_, which I had brought from the Garrison, -the National Intelligencer, of Washington, which I had read for years, -but never with quite the zest and relish that I now conversed over its -familiar columns, in this clean and sweet valley of dead silence! - -And while reading, I thought of (and laughed), what I had almost -forgotten, the sensation I produced amongst the Minatarees while on the -Upper Missouri, a few years since, by taking from amongst my painting -apparatus an old number of the _New York Commercial Advertiser_, edited -by my kind and tried friend Colonel Stone. The Minatarees thought that -I was mad, when they saw me for hours together, with my eyes fixed upon -its pages. They had different and various conjectures about it; the -most current of which was, that I was looking at it to cure my sore -eyes, and they called it the “_medicine cloth for sore eyes_!” I at -length put an end to this and several equally ignorant conjectures, -by reading passages in it, which were interpreted to them, and the -objects of the paper fully explained; after which, it was looked upon -as much greater mystery than before; and several liberal offers were -made me for it, which I was obliged to refuse, having already received -a beautifully garnished robe for it, from the hands of a young son of -Esculapius, who told me that if he could employ a good interpreter to -explain everything in it, he could travel about amongst the Minatarees -and Mandans, and Sioux, and exhibit it after I was gone; getting rich -with presents, and adding greatly to the list of his _medicines_, as -it would make him a great _Medicine-Man_. I left with the poor fellow -his painted robe, and the newspaper; and just before I departed, I saw -him unfolding it to show to some of his friends, when he took from -around it, some eight or ten folds of birch bark and deer skins; all of -which were carefully enclosed in a sack made of the skin of a pole cat, -and undoubtedly destined to become, and to be called, his mystery or -_medicine-bag_. - -The distance from Fort Gibson to the Missouri, where I struck the -river, is about five hundred miles, and most of the way a beautiful -prairie, in a wild and uncultivated state without roads and without -bridges, over a great part of which I steered my course with my -pocket-compass, fording and swimming the streams in the best manner I -could; shooting prairie hens, and occasionally catching fish, which I -cooked for my meals, and slept upon the ground at night. On my way I -visited “Riqua’s Village” of Osages, and lodged during the night in the -hospitable cabin of my old friend Beatte, of whom I have often spoken -heretofore, as one of the guides and hunters for the dragoons on their -campaign in the Camanchee country. This was the most extraordinary -hunter, I think, that I ever have met in all my travels. _To “hunt,”_ -was a phrase almost foreign to him, however, for when he went out with -his rifle, it was “_for meat_,” or “_for cattle_;” and he never came -in without it. He never told how many animals he had seen—how many he -had wounded, &c.—but his horse was always loaded with meat, which was -thrown down in camp without comment or words spoken. Riqua was an early -pioneer of Christianity in this country, who has devoted many years -of his life, with his interesting family, in endeavouring to civilize -and christianize these people, by the force of pious and industrious -examples, which he has successfully set them; and, I think, in the most -judicious way, by establishing a little village, at some miles distance -from the villages of the Osages; where he has invited a considerable -number of families who have taken their residence by the side of him; -where they are following his virtuous examples in their dealings and -modes of life, and in agricultural pursuits which he is teaching them, -and showing them that they may raise the comforts and luxuries of life -out of the ground, instead of seeking for them in the precarious manner -in which they naturally look for them, in the uncertainty of the chase. - -It was a source of much regret to me, that I did not see this pious -man, as he was on a Tour to the East, when I was in his little village. - -Beatte lived in this village with his aged parents, to whom he -introduced me; and with whom, altogether, I spent a very pleasant -evening in conversation. They are both French, and have spent the -greater part of their lives with the Osages, and seem to be familiar -with their whole history. This Beatte was the hunter and guide for a -party of rangers (the summer before our campaign), with whom Washington -Irving made his excursion to the borders of the Pawnee country; and -of whose extraordinary character and powers, Mr. Irving has drawn a -very just and glowing account, excepting one error which I think he -has inadvertently fallen into, that of calling him a “_half breed_.” -Beatte had complained of this to me often while out on the prairies; -and when I entered his hospitable cabin, he said he was glad to see me, -and almost instantly continued, “Now you shall see, Monsieur Catline, I -am not ‘_half breed_,’ here I shall introduce you to my father and my -mother, who you see are two very nice and good old French people.” - -From this cabin where I fared well and slept soundly, I started in the -morning, after taking with them a good cup of coffee, and went smoothly -on over the prairies on my course. - -About the middle of my journey, I struck a road leading into a small -civilized settlement, called the “_Kickapoo prairie_,” to which I “bent -my course;” and riding up to a log cabin which was kept as a sort of -an hotel or tavern, I met at the door, the black boy belonging to my -friend Captain Wharton, who I have said took his leave of Fort Gibson -a few weeks before me; I asked the boy where his master was, to which -he replied, “My good massa, Massa Wharton, in dese house, jist dead ob -de libber compliment!” I dismounted and went in, and to my deepest -sorrow and anguish, I found him, as the boy said, nearly dead, without -power to raise his head or his voice—his eyes were rolled upon me, and -as he recognized me he took me by the hand, which he firmly gripped, -whilst both shed tears in profusion. By placing my ear to his lips, his -whispers could be heard, and he was able in an imperfect manner to make -his views and his wishes known. His disease seemed to be a repeated -attack of his former malady, and a severe affection of the liver, which -was to be (as his physician said) the proximate cause of his death. I -conversed with his physician who seemed to be a young and inexperienced -man, who told me that he certainly could not live more than ten days. I -staid two days with him, and having no means with me of rendering him -pecuniary or other aid amongst strangers, I left him in kind hands, and -started on my course again. My health improved daily, from the time of -my setting out at Fort Gibson; and I was now moving along cheerfully, -and in hopes soon to reach the end of my toilsome journey. I had yet -vast prairies to pass over, and occasional latent difficulties, which -were not apparent on their smooth and deceiving surfaces. Deep sunken -streams, like ditches, occasionally presented themselves suddenly to my -view, when I was within a few steps of plunging into them from their -perpendicular sides, which were overhung with long wild grass, and -almost obscured from the sight. The bearings of my compass told me that -I must cross them, and the only alternative was to plunge into them, -and get out as well as I could. They were often muddy, and I could -not tell whether they were three or ten feet deep, until my horse was -in them; and sometimes he went down head foremost, and I with him, to -scramble out on the opposite shore in the best condition we could. In -one of these canals, which I had followed for several miles in the -vain hope of finding a shoal, or an accustomed ford, I plunged, with -Charley, where it was about six or eight yards wide (and God knows how -deep, for we did not go to the bottom), and swam him to the opposite -bank, on to which I clung; and which, being perpendicular and of clay, -and three or four feet higher than the water, was an insurmountable -difficulty to Charley; and I led the poor fellow at least a mile, as -I walked on the top of the bank, with the bridle in my hand, holding -his head above the water as he was swimming; and I at times almost -inextricably entangled in the long grass that was often higher than my -head, and hanging over the brink, filled and woven together, with ivy -and wild pea-vines. I at length (and just before I was ready to drop -the rein of faithful Charley, in hopeless despair), came to an old -buffalo ford, where the banks were graded down, and the poor exhausted -animal, at last got out, and was ready and willing to take me and my -luggage (after I had dried them in the sun) on the journey again. - -The Osage river which is a powerful stream, I struck at a place which -seemed to stagger my courage very much. There had been heavy rains but -a few days before, and this furious stream was rolling along its wild -and turbid waters, with a freshet upon it, that spread its waters, -in many places over its banks, as was the case at the place where I -encountered it. There seemed to be but little choice in places with -this stream, which, with its banks full, was sixty or eighty yards -in width, with a current that was sweeping along at a rapid rate. I -stripped everything from Charley, and tied him with his laso, until -I travelled the shores up and down for some distance, and collected -drift wood enough for a small raft, which I constructed, to carry my -clothes and saddle, and other things, safe over. This being completed, -and my clothes taken off, and they with other things, laid upon -the raft, I took Charley to the bank and drove him in and across, -where he soon reached the opposite shore, and went to feeding on the -bank. Next was to come the “_great white medicine_;” and with him, -saddle, bridle, saddle-bags, sketch-book, gun and pistols, coffee and -coffee-pot, powder, and his clothes, all of which were placed upon the -raft, and the raft pushed into the stream, and the “_medicine man_” -swimming behind it, and pushing it along before him, until it reached -the opposite shore, at least half a mile below! From this, his things -were carried to the top of the bank, and in a little time, Charley was -caught and dressed, and straddled, and on the way again. - -These are a few of the incidents of that journey of 500 miles, which I -performed entirely alone, and which at last brought me out at Boonville -on the Western bank of the Missouri. While I was crossing the river -at that place, I met General Arbuckle, with two surgeons, who were to -start the next day from Boonville for Fort Gibson, travelling over -the route that I had just passed. I instantly informed them of the -condition of poor Wharton, and the two surgeons were started off that -afternoon at fullest speed, with orders to reach him in the shortest -time possible, and do everything to save his life. I assisted in -purchasing for him, several little things that he had named to me, such -as jellies—acids—apples, &c. &c.; and saw them start; and (God knows), -I shall impatiently hope to hear of their timely assistance, and of his -recovery.[12] - -From Boonville, which is a very pretty little town, building up with -the finest style of brick houses, I crossed the river to New Franklin, -where I laid by several days, on account of stormy weather; and from -thence proceeded with success to the end of my journey, where I now am, -under the roof of kind and hospitable friends, with my dear wife, who -has patiently waited one year to receive me back, a wreck, as I now am; -and who is to start in a few days with me to the coast of Florida, 1400 -miles South of this, to spend the winter in patching up my health, and -fitting me for future campaigns. - -On this Tour (from which I shall return in the spring, if my health -will admit of it), I shall visit the Seminoles in Florida,—the -Euchees—the Creeks in Alabama and Georgia, and the Choctaws and -Cherokees, who are yet remaining on their lands, on the East side of -the Mississippi. - -We take steamer for New Orleans to morrow, so, till after another -campaign, Adieu. - - [12] I have great satisfaction in informing the reader, that I - learned a year or so after the above date, that those two skilful - surgeons hastened on with all possible speed to the assistance of - this excellent gentleman, and had the satisfaction of conducting - him to his post after he had entirely and permanently recovered his - health. - - - - - LETTER—No. 47. - - SAINT LOUIS. - - -Since the date of my last Letter, a whole long winter has passed off, -which I have whiled away on the Gulf of Mexico and about the shores of -Florida and Texas. My health was soon restored by the congenial climate -I there found, and my dear wife was my companion the whole way. We -visited the different posts, and all that we could find to interest us -in these delightful realms, and took steamer from New Orleans to this -place, where we arrived but a few days since. - -Supposing that the reader by this time may be somewhat tired of -following me in my erratic wanderings over these wild regions, I have -resolved to sit down awhile before I go further, and open to him my -_sketch-book_, in which I have made a great many entries, as I have -been dodging about, and which I have not as yet shewed to him, for want -of requisite time and proper opportunity. - -In opening this book, the reader will allow me to turn over leaf after -leaf, and describe to him, tribe after tribe, and chief after chief, -of many of those whom I have visited, without the tediousness of -travelling too minutely over the intervening distances; in which I fear -I might lose him as a fellow-traveller, and leave him fagged out by the -way-side, before he would see all that I am anxious to show him. - -About a year since I made a visit to the - - - KICKAPOOS. - -At present but a small tribe, numbering six or 800, the remnant of a -once numerous and warlike tribe. They are residing within the state of -Illinois, near the south end of Lake Michigan, and living in a poor and -miserable condition, although they have one of the finest countries in -the world. They have been reduced in numbers by whiskey and small-pox, -and the game being destroyed in their country, and having little -industry to work, they are exceedingly poor and dependent. In fact, -there is very little inducement for them to build houses and cultivate -their farms, for they own so large and so fine a tract of country, -which is now completely surrounded by civilized settlements, that they -know, from experience, they will soon be obliged to sell out their -country for a trifle, and move to the West. This system of moving has -already commenced with them, and a considerable party have located on a -tract of lands offered to them on the West bank of the Missouri river, -a little north of Fort Leavenworth.[13] - -The Kickapoos have long lived in alliance with the Sacs and Foxes, and -speak a language so similar that they seem almost to be of one family. -The present chief of this tribe, whose name is _Kee-an-ne-kuk_ (the -foremost man, +plate+ 185), usually called the _Shawnee Prophet_, is -a very shrewd and talented man. When he sat for his portrait, he took -his attitude as seen in the picture, which was that of prayer. And I -soon learned that he was a very devoted Christian, regularly holding -meetings in his tribe, on the sabbath, preaching to them and exhorting -them to a belief in the Christian religion, and to an abandonment of -the fatal habit of whiskey-drinking, which he strenuously represented -as the bane that was to destroy them all, if they did not entirely -cease to use it. I went on the sabbath, to hear this eloquent man -preach, when he had his people assembled in the woods; and although I -could not understand his language, I was surprised and pleased with the -natural ease and emphasis, and gesticulation, which carried their own -evidence of the eloquence of his sermon. - -I was singularly struck with the noble efforts of this champion of -the mere remnant of a poisoned race, so strenuously labouring to -rescue the remainder of his people from the deadly bane that has been -brought amongst them by enlightened Christians. How far the efforts -of this zealous man have succeeded in christianizing, I cannot tell, -but it is quite certain that his exemplary and constant endeavours -have completely abolished the practice of drinking whiskey in his -tribe; which alone is a very praiseworthy achievement, and the first -and indispensable step towards all other improvements. I was some time -amongst these people, and was exceedingly pleased, and surprised also, -to witness their sobriety, and their peaceable conduct; not having -seen an instance of drunkenness, or seen or heard of any use made of -spirituous liquors whilst I was amongst the tribe. - -_Ah-ton-we-tuck_ (the cock turkey, +plate+ 186), is another Kickapoo -of some distinction, and a disciple of the Prophet; in the attitude of -prayer also, which he is reading off from characters cut upon a stick -that he holds in his hands. It was told to me in the tribe by the -Traders (though I am afraid to vouch for the whole truth of it), that -while a Methodist preacher was soliciting him for permission to preach -in his village, the Prophet refused him the privilege, but secretly -took him aside and supported him until he learned from him his creed, -and his system of teaching it to others; when he discharged him, and -commenced preaching amongst his people himself; pretending to have -had an interview with some superhuman mission, or inspired personage; -ingeniously resolving, that if there was any honour or emolument, or -influence to be gained by the promulgation of it, he might as well -have it as another person; and with this view he commenced preaching -and instituted a prayer, which he ingeniously carved on a maple-stick -of an inch and a half in breadth, in characters somewhat resembling -Chinese letters. These sticks, with the prayers on them, he has -introduced into every family of the tribe, and into the hands of every -individual; and as he has necessarily the manufacturing of them all, he -sells them at his own price; and has thus added lucre to fame, and in -two essential and effective ways, augmented his influence in his tribe. -Every man, woman and child in the tribe, so far as I saw them, were in -the habit of saying their prayer from this stick when going to bed at -night, and also when rising in the morning; which was invariably done -by placing the fore-finger of the right hand under the upper character, -until they repeat a sentence or two, which it suggests to them; and -then slipping it under the next, and the next, and so on, to the bottom -of the stick, which altogether required about ten minutes, as it was -sung over in a sort of a chaunt, to the end. - -[Illustration: 185 186] - -[Illustration: 187 188] - -Many people have called all this an ingenious piece of hypocrisy on -the part of the Prophet, and whether it be so or not, I cannot decide; -yet one thing I can vouch to be true, that whether his motives and -his life be as pure as he pretends or not, his example has done much -towards correcting the habits of his people, and has effectually turned -their attention from the destructive habits of dissipation and vice, to -temperance and industry, in the pursuits of agriculture and the arts. -The world may still be unwilling to allow him much credit for this, but -I am ready to award him a great deal, who can by his influence thus far -arrest the miseries of dissipation and the horrid deformities of vice, -in the descending prospects of a nation who have so long had, and still -have, the white-skin teachers of vices and dissipation amongst them. - -Besides these two chiefs, I have also painted _Ma-shee-na_ (the elk’s -horn) _Ke-chim-qua_ (the big bear), warriors, and _Ah-tee-wot-o-mee_, -and _She-nah-wee_, women of the same tribe, whose portraits are in the -Gallery. - - - WEE-AHS. - -These are also the remnant of a once powerful tribe, and reduced by -the same causes, to the number of 200. This tribe formerly lived in -the State of Indiana, and have been moved with the Piankeshaws, to a -position forty or fifty miles south of Fort Leavenworth. - -_Go-to-kow-pah-a_ (he who stands by himself, +plate+ 187), and -_Wa-pon-je-a_ (the swan), are two of the most distinguished warriors of -the tribe, both with intelligent European heads. - - - POT-O-WAT-O-MIES. - -The remains of a tribe who were once very numerous and warlike, but -reduced by whiskey and small-pox, to their present number, which is not -more than 2700. This tribe may be said to be semi-civilized, inasmuch -as they have so long lived in contiguity with white people, with whom -their blood is considerably mixed, and whose modes and whose manners -they have in many respects copied. From a similarity of language as -well as of customs and personal appearance, there is no doubt that -they have formerly been a part of the great tribe of Chippeways or -Ot-ta-was. Living neighbours and adjoining to them, on the North. This -tribe live within the state of Michigan, and there own a rich and very -valuable tract of land; which, like the Kickapoos, they are selling -out to the Government, and about to remove to the west bank of the -Missouri, where a part of the tribe have already gone and settled, in -the vicinity of Fort Leavenworth. Of this tribe I have painted the -portraits of _On-saw-kie_ (the Sac, +plate+ 189), in the attitude of -prayer, and _Na-pow-sa_ (the Bear travelling in the night,) +plate+ -190, one of the principal chiefs of the tribe. These people have for -some time lived neighbours to, and somewhat under the influence of the -Kickapoos; and very many of the tribe have become zealous disciples -of the Kickapoo prophet, using his prayers most devoutly, and in the -manner that I have already described, as is seen in the first of the -two last-named portraits. - - - KAS-KAS-KI-AS. - -This is the name of a tribe that formerly occupied, and of course -owned, a vast tract of country lying on the East of the Mississippi, -and between its banks and the Ohio, and now forming a considerable -portion of the great and populous state of Illinois. History furnishes -us a full and extraordinary account of the once warlike character and -numbers of this tribe; and also of the disastrous career that they have -led, from their first acquaintance with civilized neighbours; whose -rapacious avarice in grasping for their fine lands—with the banes of -whiskey and small-pox, added to the unexampled cruelty of neighbouring -hostile tribes, who have struck at them in the days of their adversity, -and helped to erase them from existence. - -Perhaps there has been no other tribe on the Continent of equal power -with the Kas-kas-ki-as, that have so suddenly sank down to complete -annihilation and disappeared. The remnant of this tribe have long -since merged into the tribe of Peorias of Illinois; and it is doubtful -whether one dozen of them are now existing. With the very few remnants -of this tribe will die in a few years a beautiful language, entirely -distinct from all others about it, unless some enthusiastic person may -preserve it from the lips of those few who are yet able to speak it. Of -this tribe I painted _Kee-mon-saw_ (the little chief), half-civilized, -and, I should think, half-breed (+plate+ 191); and _Wah-pe-seh-see_ -(+plate+ 192), a very aged woman, mother of the same. - -This young man is chief of the tribe; and I was told by one of the -Traders, that his mother and his son, were his only subjects! Whether -this be true or not, I cannot positively say, though I can assert with -safety that there are but a very few of them left, and that those, -like all of the last of tribes, will soon die of dissipation or broken -hearts. - -[Illustration: 189 190] - -[Illustration: 191 192] - -[Illustration: 193 194] - -[Illustration: 195 196] - - - PE-O-RI-AS. - -The name of another tribe inhabiting a part of the state of Illinois; -and, like the above tribes, but a remnant and civilized (or -_cicatrized_, to speak more correctly). This tribe number about 200, -and are, like most of the other remnants of tribes on the frontiers, -under contract to move to the West of the Missouri. Of this tribe I -painted the portrait of _Pah-me-cow-e-tah_ (the man who tracks, +plate+ -193); and _Kee-mo-ra-ni-a_ (no English, +plate+ 194). These are said to -be the most influential men in the tribe, and both were very curiously -and _well_ dressed, in articles of civilized manufacture. - - - PI-AN-KE-SHAWS. - -The remnant of another tribe, of the states of Illinois and Indiana, -who have also recently sold out their country to Government, and are -under contract to move to the West of the Missouri, in the vicinity of -Fort Leavenworth. _Ni-a-co-mo_ (to fix with the foot, +plate+ 195), a -brave of distinction; and _Men-son-se-ah_ (the left hand, +plate+ 196), -a fierce-looking and very distinguished warrior, with a stone-hatchet -in his hand, are fair specimens of this reduced and enfeebled tribe, -which do not number more than 170 persons at this time. - - - DELAWARES. - -The very sound of this name has carried terror wherever it has been -heard in the Indian wilderness; and it has travelled and been known, as -well as the people, over a very great part of the Continent. This tribe -originally occupied a great part of the Eastern border of Pennsylvania, -and great part of the states of New Jersey and Delaware. No other -tribe on the Continent has been so much moved and jostled about by -civilized invasions; and none have retreated so far, or fought their -way so desperately, as they have honourably and bravely contended for -every foot of the ground they have passed over. From the banks of the -Delaware to the lovely Susquehana, and _my native valley_, and to the -base of and over, the Alleghany mountains, to the Ohio river—to the -Illinois and the Mississippi, and at last to the West of the Missouri, -they have been moved by Treaties after Treaties with the Government, -who have now assigned to the mere handful of them that are left, a -tract of land, as has been done a dozen times before, in _fee simple, -for ever_! In every move the poor fellows have made, they have been -thrust against their wills from the graves of their fathers and their -children; and planted as they now are, on the borders of new enemies, -where their first occupation has been to take up their weapons in -self-defence, and fight for the ground they have been planted on. -There is no tribe, perhaps, amongst which greater and more continued -exertions have been made for their conversion to Christianity; and that -ever since the zealous efforts of the Moravian missionaries, who first -began with them; nor any, amongst whom those pious and zealous efforts -have been squandered more in vain; which has, probably, been owing to -the bad faith with which they have so often and so continually been -treated by white people, which has excited prejudices that have stood -in the way of their mental improvement. - -This scattered and reduced tribe, which once contained some 10 or -15,000, numbers at this time but 800; and the greater part of them have -been for the fifty or sixty years past, residing in Ohio and Indiana. -In these states, their reservations became surrounded by white people, -whom they dislike for neighbours, and their lands too valuable for -Indians—and the certain consequence has been, that they have sold out -and taken lands West of the Mississippi; on to which they have moved, -and on which it is, and always will be, almost impossible to find them, -owing to their desperate disposition for roaming about, indulging in -the chase, and in wars with their enemies. - -The wild frontier on which they are now placed, affords them so fine -an opportunity to indulge both of these propensities, that they will -be continually wandering in little and desperate parties over the vast -buffalo plains, and exposed to their enemies, till at last the new -country, which is given to them, in “fee simple, for ever,” and which -is destitute of game, will be deserted, and they, like the most of the -removed remnants of tribes, will be destroyed; and the faith of the -Government well preserved, which has offered _this_ as their _last -move_, and these lands as _theirs in fee simple, for ever_. - -In my travels on the Upper Missouri, and in the Rocky Mountains, -I learned to my utter astonishment, that little parties of these -adventurous myrmidons, of only six or eight in numbers, had visited -those remote tribes, at 2000 miles distance; and in several -instances, after having cajoled a whole tribe—having been feasted in -their villages—having solemnized the articles of everlasting peace -with them, and received many presents at their hands, and taken -affectionate leave, have brought away six or eight scalps with them; -and nevertheless, braved their way, and defended themselves as they -retreated in safety out of their enemies’ country, and through the -regions of other hostile tribes, where they managed to receive the same -honours, and come off with similar trophies. - -Amongst this tribe there are some renowned chiefs, whose lives, if -correctly written, would be matter of the most extraordinary kind for -the reading world; and of which, it may be in my power at some future -time, to give a more detailed account. In +plate+ 197 will be seen -the portrait of one of the leading chiefs of the tribe, whose name -is _Ni-co-man_ (the answer), with his bow and arrows in his hand. -_Non-on-da-gon_ (+plate+ 198), with a silver ring in his nose, is -another of the chiefs of distinction, whose history I admired very -much, and whom, from his very gentlemanly attentions to me, I became -much attached to. In both of these instances, their dresses were -principally of stuffs of civilized manufacture; and their heads were -bound with vari-coloured handkerchiefs or shawls, which were tastefully -put on like a Turkish turban. - -[Illustration: 197 198] - -[Illustration: 199 200] - - - +MO-HEE-CON-NEUHS, or MOHEGANS (the good canoemen).+ - -There are 400 of this once powerful and still famous tribe, residing -near Green Bay, on a rich tract of land given to them by the -Government, in the territory of Wisconsin, near Winnebago lake—on -which they are living very comfortably; having brought with them from -their former country, in the state of Massachusetts, a knowledge of -agriculture, which they had there effectually learned and practiced. - -This tribe are the remains, and all that are left, of the once powerful -and celebrated tribe of Pequots of Massachusetts. History tells us, -that in their wars and dissensions with the whites, a considerable -portion of the tribe moved off under the command of a rival chief, -and established a separate tribe or band, and took the name of -Mo-hee-con-neuhs, which they have preserved until the present day; the -rest of the tribe having long since been extinct. - -The chief of this tribe, _Ee-tow-o-kaum_ (both sides of the river, -+plate+ 199), which I have painted at full length, with a psalm-book -in one hand, and a cane in the other, is a very shrewd and intelligent -man, and a professed, and I think, sincere Christian. _Waun-naw-con_ -(the dish), John W. Quinney (+plate+ 200), in civilized dress, is a -civilized Indian, well-educated—speaking good English—is a Baptist -missionary preacher, and a very plausible and eloquent speaker. - - - O-NEI-DA’S. - -The remnant of a numerous tribe that have been destroyed by wars with -the whites—by whiskey and small-pox, numbering at present but five or -six hundred, and living in the most miserable poverty, on their reserve -in the state of New York, near Utica and the banks of the Mohawk river. -This tribe was one of the confederacy, called the Six Nations, and much -distinguished in the early history of New York. The present chief is -known by the name of _Bread_ (+plate+ 201). He is a shrewd and talented -man, well educated,—speaking good English—is handsome, and a polite and -gentlemanly man in his deportment. - - - TUS-KA-RO-RA’S. - -Another of the tribes in the confederacy of the Six Nations, once -numerous, but reduced at present to the number of 500. This little -tribe are living on their reserve, a fine tract of land, near Buffalo, -in the state of New York, and surrounded by civilized settlements. -Many of them are good farmers, raising abundant and fine crops. - -The chief of the tribe is a very dignified man, by the name of -_Cu-sick_, and his son, of the same name, whom I have painted (+plate+ -202), is a very talented man—has been educated for the pulpit in some -one of our public institutions, and is now a Baptist preacher, and I am -told a very eloquent speaker. - - - SEN-E-CA’S. - -One thousand two hundred in numbers at present, living on their -reserve, near Buffalo, and within a few miles of Niagara Falls, in the -state of New York. This tribe formerly lived on the banks of the Seneca -and Cayuga lakes; but, like all the other tribes who have stood in the -way of the “march of civilization,” have repeatedly bargained away -their country, and removed to the West; which easily accounts for the -origin of the familiar phrase that is used amongst them, that “they are -going to the setting sun.” - -This tribe, when first known to the civilized world, contained some -eight or ten thousand; and from their position in the centre of the -state of New York, held an important place in its history. The Senecas -were one of the most numerous and effective tribes, constituting the -compact called the “Six Nations;” which was a confederacy formed by -six tribes, who joined in a league as an effective mode of gaining -strength, and preserving themselves by combined efforts which would be -sufficiently strong to withstand the assaults of neighbouring tribes, -or to resist the incursions of white people in their country. This -confederacy consisted of the Senecas, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas, -Mohawks, and Tuskaroras; and until the innovations of white people, -with their destructive engines of war—with whiskey and small-pox, they -held their sway in the country, carrying victory, and consequently -terror and dismay, wherever they warred. Their war-parties were -fearlessly sent into Connecticut and Massachusetts, to Virginia, and -even to the Carolinas, and victory everywhere crowned their efforts. -Their combined strength, however, in all its might, poor fellows, was -not enough to withstand the siege of their insidious foes—a destroying -flood that has risen and advanced, like a flood-tide upon them, and -covered their country; has broken up their strong holds, has driven -them from land to land; and in their retreat, has drowned the most of -them in its waves. - -The Senecas are the most numerous remnant of this compact; and have -at their head an aged and very distinguished chief, familiarly known -throughout the United States, by the name of _Red Jacket_ (+plate+ -205). I painted this portrait from the life, in the costume in which he -is represented; and indulged him also, in the wish he expressed, “that -he might be seen standing on the Table Rock, at the Falls of Niagara; -about which place he thought his spirit would linger after he was dead.” - -_Good Hunter_ (+plate+ 203), and _Hard Hickory_ (+plate+ 204), are -fair specimens of the warriors of this tribe or rather hunters; -or perhaps, still more correctly speaking, _farmers_; for the Senecas -have had no battles to fight lately, and very little game to kill, -except squirrels and pheasants; and their hands are turned to the -plough, having become, most of them, tolerable farmers; raising the -necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life, from the soil. - -[Illustration: 201 202] - -[Illustration: 203 204] - -[Illustration: 205] - -Of this interesting tribe, the visitors to my Gallery will find several -other portraits and paintings of their customs; and in books that have -been written, and are being compiled, a much more able and faithful -account than I can give in an epistle of this kind. - -The fame as well as the face of Red Jacket, is generally familiar -to the citizens of the United States and the Canadas; and for the -information of those who have not known him, I will briefly say, that -he has been for many years the head chief of the scattered remnants of -that once powerful compact, the Six Nations; a part of whom reside on -their reservations in the vicinity of the Senecas, amounting perhaps in -all, to about four thousand, and owning some two hundred thousand acres -of fine lands. Of this Confederacy, the Mohawks and Cayugas, chiefly -emigrated to Canada, some fifty years ago, leaving the Senecas, the -Tuskaroras, Oneidas, and Onondagas in the state of New York, on fine -tracts of lands, completely surrounded with white population; who by -industry and enterprize, are making the Indian lands too valuable to be -long in their possession, who will no doubt be induced to sell out to -the Government, or, in other words, to exchange them for lands West of -the Mississippi, where it is the avowed intention of the Government to -remove all the border tribes.[14] - -Red Jacket has been reputed one of the greatest orators of his day; -and, no doubt, more distinguished for his eloquence and his influence -in council, than as a warrior, in which character I think history -has not said much of him. This may be owing, in a great measure, to -the fact that the wars of his nation were chiefly fought before his -fighting days; and that the greater part of his life and his talents -have been spent with his tribe, during its downfall; where, instead of -the horrors of Indian wars, they have had a more fatal and destructive -enemy to encounter, in the insidious encroachments of pale faces, -which he has been for many years exerting his eloquence and all his -talents to resist. Poor old chief—not all the eloquence of Cicero -and Demosthenes would be able to avert the calamity, that awaits his -declining nation—to resist the despoiling hand of mercenary white man, -that opens and spreads liberally, but to entrap the unwary and ignorant -within its withering grasp. - -This talented old man has for many years past, strenuously remonstrated -both to the Governor of New York, and the President of the United -States, against the continual encroachments of white people; whom he -represented as using every endeavour to wrest from them their lands—to -destroy their game, introducing vices of a horrible character, and -unknown to his people by nature! and most vehemently of all, has he -continually remonstrated against the preaching of missionaries in his -tribe; alleging, that the “black coats” (as he calls the clergymen), -did more mischief than good in his tribe, by creating doubts and -dissensions amongst his people! which are destructive of his peace, and -dangerous to the success, and even _existence_ of his tribe. Like many -other great men who endeavour to soothe broken and painful feelings, by -the kindness of the bottle, he has long since taken up whiskey-drinking -to excess; and much of his time, lies drunk in his cabin, or under -the corner of a fence, or wherever else its _kindness_ urges the -necessity of his dropping his helpless body and limbs, to indulge -in the delightful _spell_. He is as great a drunkard as some of our -most distinguished law-givers and law-makers; and yet _ten times more -culpable_, as he has little to do in life, and wields the destinies of -a nation in his hands![15] - -There are no better people to be found, than the Seneca Indians—none -that I know of that are by Nature more talented and ingenious; nor any -that would be found to be better neighbours, if the arts and abuses of -white men and whiskey, could be kept away from them. They have mostly -laid down their hunting habits, and become efficient farmers, raising -fine crops of corn, and a great abundance of hogs, cattle and horses, -and other necessaries and luxuries of life. - - - I-RO-QUOIS. - -One of the most numerous and powerful tribes that ever existed in the -Northern regions of our country, and now one of the most completely -annihilated. This tribe occupied a vast tract of country on the River -St. Lawrence, between its banks and Lake Champlain; and at times, by -conquest, actually over-run the whole country, from that to the shores -of Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan. But by their continual wars with -the French, English, and Indians, and dissipation and disease, they -have been almost entirely annihilated. The few remnants of them have -long since merged into other tribes, and been mostly lost sight of.[16] -Of this tribe I have painted but one, _Not-o-way_ (the thinker, -+plate+ 206). This was an excellent man, and was handsomely dressed for -his picture. I had much conversation with him, and became very much -attached to him. He seemed to be quite ignorant of the early history -of his tribe, as well as of the position and condition of its few -scattered remnants, who are yet in existence. He told me, however, that -he had always learned that the Iroquois had conquered nearly all the -world; but the Great Spirit being offended at the great slaughters by -his favourite people, resolved to punish them; and he sent a dreadful -disease amongst them, that carried the most of them off, and all the -rest that could be found, were killed by their enemies—that though he -was an Iroquois, which he was proud to acknowledge to me, as I was -to “make him live after he was dead;” he wished it to be generally -thought, that he was a Chippeway, that he might live as long as the -Great Spirit had wished it when he made him.[17] - -[Illustration: 206] - - [13] Since the above was written, the whole of this tribe have been - removed beyond the Missouri, having sold out their lands in the - state of Illinois to the Government. - - - [14] Since the above was written, the Senecas and all the other - remnants of the Six Nations residing in the state of New York, - have agreed in Treaties with the United States to remove to tracts - of country assigned them, West of the Mississippi, twelve hundred - miles from their reservations in the state of New York. - - - [15] This celebrated chief died several years since, in his - village near Buffalo; and since his death our famous comedian, - Mr. Placide, has erected a handsome and appropriate monument over - his grave; and I am pleased also to learn, that my friend Wm. L. - Stone, Esq., is building him a still more lasting one in history, - which he is compiling, of the life of this extraordinary man, to an - early perusal of which, I can confidently refer the world for much - curious and valuable information. - - - [16] The whole of the Six Nations have been by some writers - denominated Iroquois—how correct this may be, I am not quite able - to say; one thing is certain, that is, that the Iroquois tribe did - not all belong to that Confederacy, their original country was on - the shores of the St. Lawrence; and, although one branch of their - nation, the Mohawks, formed a part, and the most effective portion - of that compact, yet the other members of it spoke different - languages; and a great part of the Iroquois moved their settlements - further North and East, instead of joining in the continual wars - carried on by the Six Nations. It is of this part of the tribe that - I am speaking, when I mention them as nearly extinct: and it is - from this branch of the family that I got the portrait which I have - introduced above. - - - [17] Since the above Letter was written, all the tribes and - remnants of tribes mentioned in it have been removed by the - Government, to lands West of the Mississippi and Missouri, given - to them, in addition to considerable annuities, in consideration - for the immense tracts of country they have left on the frontier, - and within the States. The present positions of these tribes, and - their relative locations to the civilized frontier and the wild, - unjostled tribes, can be seen on a map in the beginning of this - Volume. There are also other tribes there laid down, who have also - been removed by Treaty stipulations, in the same way, which are - treated of in subsequent Letters. The Government, under General - Jackson, strenuously set forth and carried out, the policy of - removing all the semi-civilized and border Indians, to a country - West of the Mississippi; and although the project had many violent - opponents, yet there were very many strong reasons in favour of it, - and the thing _has been at last done_; and a few years will decide, - by the best of all arguments, whether the policy was a good one or - not. I may have occasion to say more on this subject hereafter; and - in the mean time recommend the reader to examine their relative - positions, and contemplate their prospects between their mortal - foes on the West, and their acquisitive _friends_ following them up - from the East. - - - - - LETTER—No. 48. - - ST. LOUIS. - - -Whilst I am thus taking a hasty glance at the tribes on the Atlantic -Coast, on the borders of Mexico, and the confines of Canada, the -reader will pardon me for taking him for a few minutes to the mouth -of the Columbia, on the Pacific Coast; which place I have not yet -quite reached myself, in my wild rambles, but most undoubtedly shall -ere long, if my strolling career be not suddenly stopped. I scarcely -need tell the reader where the Columbia River is, since its course and -its character have been so often, and so well described, by recent -travellers through those regions. I can now but glance at this remote -country and its customs; and revert to it again after I shall have -examined it in all its parts, and collected my materials for a fuller -account. - - - FLAT HEADS. - -These are a very numerous people, inhabiting the shores of the Columbia -River, and a vast tract of country lying to the South of it, and living -in a country which is exceedingly sterile and almost entirely, in many -parts, destitute of game for the subsistence of the savage; they are -mostly obliged to live on roots, which they dig from the ground, and -fish which they take from the streams; the consequences of which are, -that they are generally poor and miserably clad; and in no respect -equal to the Indians of whom I have heretofore spoken, who live on the -East of the Rocky Mountains, in the ranges of the buffaloes; where they -are well-fed, and mostly have good horses to ride, and materials in -abundance for manufacturing their beautiful and comfortable dresses. - -The people generally denominated Flat Heads, are divided into a great -many bands, and although they have undoubtedly got their name from the -custom of flattening the head; yet there are but very few of those so -denominated, who actually practice that extraordinary custom. - -The _Nez Percés_ who inhabit the upper waters and mountainous parts of -the Columbia, are a part of this tribe, though they are seldom known -to flatten the head like those lower down, and about the mouth of the -river. _Hee-oh’ks-te-kin_ (the rabbit skin leggings, +plate+ 207), and -_H’co-a-h’co a-h’cotes-min_ (no horns on his head, +plate+ 208), are -young men of this tribe. These two young men, when I painted them, -were in beautiful Sioux dresses, which had been presented to them -in a talk with the Sioux, who treated them very kindly, while passing -through the Sioux country. These two men were part of a delegation that -came across the Rocky Mountains to St. Louis, a few years since, to -enquire for the truth of a representation which they said some white -man had made amongst them, “that our religion was better than theirs, -and that they would all be lost if they did not embrace it.” - -[Illustration: 207 208] - -[Illustration: 209 210] - -Two old and venerable men of this party died in St. Louis, and I -travelled two thousand miles, companion with these two young fellows, -towards their own country, and became much pleased with their manners -and dispositions. - -The last mentioned of the two, died near the mouth of the Yellow -Stone River on his way home, with disease which he had contracted -in the civilized district; and the other one I have since learned, -arrived safely amongst his friends, conveying to them the melancholy -intelligence of the deaths of all the rest of his party; but assurances -at the same time, from General Clark, and many Reverend gentlemen, -that the report which they had heard was well founded; and that -missionaries, good and religious men, would soon come amongst them to -teach this religion, so that they could all understand and have the -benefits of it. - -When I first heard the report of the object of this extraordinary -mission across the mountains, I could scarcely believe it; but on -conversing with General Clark on a future occasion, I was fully -convinced of the fact; and I, like thousands of others, have had the -satisfaction of witnessing the complete success that has crowned the -bold and daring exertions of Mr. Lee and Mr. Spalding, two Reverend -gentlemen who have answered in a Christian manner to this unprecedented -call; and with their wives have crossed the most rugged wilds and -wildernesses of the Rocky Mountains, and triumphantly proved to the -world, that the Indians, in their native wilds are a kind and friendly -people, and susceptible of mental improvement. - -I had long been of the opinion, that to ensure success, the exertions -of pious men should be carried into the heart of the wilderness, beyond -the reach and influence of civilized vices; and I so expressed my -opinion to the Reverend Mr. Spalding and his lady, in Pittsburgh, when -on their way, in their first Tour to that distant country. I have seen -the Reverend Mr. Lee and several others of the mission, several years -since the formation of their school; as well as several gentlemen who -have visited their settlement, and from all, I am fully convinced of -the complete success of these excellent and persevering gentlemen, in -proving to the world the absurdity of the assertion that has been often -made, “that the Indian can never be civilized or christianized.” Their -uninterrupted transit over such a vast and wild journey, also, with -their wives on horseback, who were everywhere on their way, as well as -amongst the tribes where they have located, treated with the utmost -kindness and respect, bears strong testimony to the assertions so often -made by travellers in those countries, that these are, in their native -state, a kind and excellent people. - -I hope I shall on a future occasion, be able to give the reader some -further detailed account of the success of these zealous and excellent -men, whose example, of penetrating to the _heart_ of the Indian -country, and _there_ teaching the Indian in the true and effective -way, will be a lasting honour to themselves, and I fully believe, a -permanent benefit to those ignorant and benighted people. - - - THE CHINOOKS. - -Inhabiting the lower parts of the Columbia, are a small tribe, and -correctly come under the name of Flat Heads, as they are almost -the only people who strictly adhere to the custom of squeezing and -flattening the head. +Plate+ 209, is the portrait of a Chinook boy, -of fifteen or eighteen years of age, on whose head that frightful -operation has never been performed. And in +plate+ 210, will be seen -the portrait of a Chinook woman, with her child in her arms, her own -head flattened, and the infant undergoing the process of flattening; -which is done by placing its back on a board, or thick plank, to which -it is lashed with thongs, to a position from which it cannot escape, -and the back of the head supported by a sort of pillow, made of moss -or rabbit skins, with an inclined piece (as is seen in the drawing), -resting on the forehead of the child; being every day drawn down a -little tighter by means of a cord, which holds it in its place, until -it at length touches the nose; thus forming a straight line from the -crown of the head to the end of the nose. - -This process is seemingly a very cruel one, though I doubt whether it -causes much pain; as it is done in earliest infancy, whilst the bones -are soft and cartilaginous, and easily pressed into this distorted -shape, by forcing the occipital up, and the frontal down; so that the -skull at the top, in profile, will show a breadth of not more than an -inch and a half, or two inches; when in a front view it exhibits a -great expansion on the sides, making it at the top, nearly the width of -one and a half natural heads. - -By this remarkable operation, the brain is singularly changed from its -natural shape; but in all probability, not in the least diminished -or injured in its natural functions. This belief is drawn from the -testimony of many credible witnesses, who have closely scrutinized -them; and ascertained that those who have the head flattened, are in no -way inferior in intellectual powers to those whose heads are in their -natural shapes. - -In the process of flattening the head, there is often another form of -crib or cradle, into which the child is placed, much in the form of a -small canoe, dug out of a log of wood, with a cavity just large enough -to admit the body of the child, and the head also, giving it room to -expand in width; while from the head of the cradle there is a sort of -lever, with an elastic spring to it that comes down on the forehead -of the child, and produces the same effects as the one I have above -described. - -The child is wrapped in rabbits’ skins, and placed in this little -coffin-like looking cradle, from which it is not, in some instances, -taken out for several weeks. The bandages over and about the lower -limbs, and as high up as the breast, are loose, and repeatedly taken -off in the same day, as the child may require cleansing; but the head -and shoulders are kept strictly in the same position, and the breast -given to the child by holding it up in the cradle, loosing the outer -end of the lever that comes over the nose, and raising it up of turning -it aside, so as to allow the child to come at the breast, without -moving its head. - -[Illustration: 210½] - -The length of time that the infants are generally carried in these -cradles is three, five, or eight weeks, until the bones are so formed -as to keep their shapes, and preserve this singular appearance through -life. - -This little cradle has a strap, which passes over the woman’s forehead -whilst the cradle rides on her back; and if the child dies during its -subjection to this rigid mode, its cradle becomes its coffin, forming -a little canoe, in which it lies floating on the water in some sacred -pool, where they are often in the habit of fastening the canoes, -containing the dead bodies of the old and the young; or which is often -the case, elevated into the branches of trees, where their bodies -are left to decay, and their bones to dry; whilst they are bandaged -in many skins, and curiously packed in their canoes, with paddles to -propel, and ladles to bail them out, and provisions to last, and pipes -to smoke, as they are performing their “long journey after death, to -their contemplated hunting-grounds,” which these people think is to be -performed in their canoes. - -In +plate+ 210½ letter _a_, is an accurate drawing of the -above-mentioned cradle, perfectly exemplifying the custom described; -and by the side of it (letter _b_,) the drawing of a Chinook skull, -giving the front and profile view of it. Letter _c_, in the same plate, -exhibits an Indian skull in its _natural_ shape, to contrast with the -_artificial_.[18] - -This mode of flattening the head is certainly one of the most -unaccountable, as well as unmeaning customs, found amongst the -North American Indians. What it could have originated in, or for -what purpose, other than a mere useless fashion, it could have been -invented, no human being can probably ever tell. The Indians have many -curious and ridiculous fashions, which have come into existence, no -doubt, by accident, and are of no earthly use (like many silly fashions -in enlightened society), yet they are perpetuated much longer, and -that only because their ancestors practiced them in ages gone by. The -greater part of Indian modes, however, and particularly those that are -accompanied with much pain or trouble in their enactment, are most -wonderfully adapted to the production of some good or useful results; -for which the inquisitive world, I am sure, may for ever look in vain -to this stupid and useless fashion, that has most unfortunately been -engendered on these ignorant people, whose superstition forbids them to -lay it down. - -It is a curious fact, and one that should be mentioned here, that -these people have not been alone in this strange custom; but that it -existed and was practiced precisely the same, until recently, amongst -the Choctaws and Chickasaws; who occupied a large part of the states of -Mississippi and Alabama, where they have laid their bones, and hundreds -of their skulls have been procured, bearing incontrovertible evidence -of a similar treatment, with similar results. - -The Choctaws who are now living, do not flatten the head; the custom, -like that of the _medicine-bag_, and many others, which the Indians -have departed from, from the assurances of white people, that they were -of no use, and were utterly ridiculous to be followed. Whilst amongst -the Choctaws, I could learn little more from the people about such a -custom, than that “their old men recollected to have heard it spoken -of”—which is much less satisfactory evidence than inquisitive white -people get by referring to the grave, which the Indian never meddles -with. The distance of the Choctaws from the country of the Chinooks, -is certainly between two and three thousand miles; and there being no -intervening tribes practicing the same custom—and no probability that -any two tribes in a state of Nature, would ever hit upon so peculiar -an absurdity, we come, whether willingly or not, to the conclusion, -that these tribes must at some former period, have lived neighbours -to each other, or have been parts of the same family; which time and -circumstances have gradually removed to such a very great distance from -each other. Nor does this, in my opinion (as many suppose), furnish -any very strong evidence in support of the theory, that the different -tribes have all sprung from one stock; but carries a strong argument to -the other side, by furnishing proof of the very great tenacity these -people have for their peculiar customs; many of which are certainly not -general, but often carried from one end of the Continent to the other, -or from ocean to ocean, by bands or sections of tribes, which often get -“run off” by their enemies in wars, or in hunting, as I have before -described; where to emigrate to a vast distance is not so unaccountable -a thing, but almost the _inevitable result_, of a tribe that have got -set in motion, all the way amongst deadly foes, in whose countries it -would be fatal to stop. - -I am obliged therefore, to believe, that either the Chinooks emigrated -from the Atlantic, or that the Choctaws came from the West side of the -Rocky Mountains; and I regret exceedingly that I have not been able as -yet, to compare the languages of these two tribes, in which I should -expect to find some decided resemblance. They might, however, have been -near neighbours, and practicing a copied custom where there was no -resemblance in their language. - -Whilst among the Choctaws I wrote down from the lips of one of their -chiefs, the following tradition, which seems strongly to favour the -supposition that they came from a great distance in the West, and -probably from beyond the Rocky Mountains:—_Tradition_. “The Choctaws, -a great many winters ago, commenced moving from the country where -they then lived, which was a great distance to the West of the great -river, and the mountains of snow; and they were a great many years on -their way. A great medicine-man led them the whole way, by going before -with a red pole, which he stuck in the ground every night where they -encamped. This pole was every morning found leaning to the East; and -he told them that they must continue to travel to the East, until the -pole would stand upright in their encampment, and that there the Great -Spirit had directed that they should live. At a place which they named -_Nah-ne-wa-ye_ (the sloping hill); the pole stood straight up, where -they pitched their encampment, which was one mile square, with the men -encamped on the outside, and the women and children in the centre; -which is the centre of the old Choctaw nation to ‘this day.’” - -In the vicinity of the mouth of the Columbia, there are, besides the -_Chinooks_, the _Klick-a-tacks_, _Cheehaylas_, _Na-as_, and many other -tribes, whose customs are interesting, and of whose manufactures, my -Museum contains many very curious and interesting specimens, from which -I have inserted a few outlines in +plate+ 210½, to which the reader -will refer. Letter _d_, is a correct drawing of a Chinook canoe—_e_, -a Na-as war-canoe, curiously carved and painted—_f_, two dishes or -ladles for baling their canoes—_g_, a Stikeen mask, curiously carved -and painted, worn by the mystery-men when in councils, for the purpose -of calling up the Great or Evil Spirits to consult an the policy of -peace or war—_h_, custom of the _Na-as_ women of wearing a block of -wood in the under lip, which is almost as unaccountable as the custom -of flattening the head. Letter _i_, is a drawing of the block, and -the exact dimensions of one in the Collection, taken out of the lip -of a deceased _Na-as_ woman—_k_, “wapito diggers,” instruments used -by the women for digging the wapito, a bulbous root, much like a -turnip, which the French Traders call _pomme blanche_, and which I have -before described. Letter _l_, _pau-to-mau-gons_, or _po-ko-mo-kons_, -war-clubs, the one made by the Indians from a piece of native copper, -the other of the bone of the sperm whale. Letter _n_, two very -curiously carved pipes, made of black slate and highly polished. - -Besides these, the visitor will find in the Collection a great number -of their very ingenious articles of dress; their culinary, war, and -hunting implements, as well as specimens of their spinning and weaving, -by which they convert dog’s hair and the wool of the mountain-sheep -into durable and splendid robes, the production of which, I venture to -say, would bid defiance to any of the looms in the American or British -Factories. - -The Indians who inhabit the rugged wildernesses of the Rocky Mountains, -are chiefly the Blackfeet and Crows, of whom I have heretofore spoken, -and the Shoshonees or Snakes, who are a part of the Camanchees, -speaking the same language, and the Shoshokies or root diggers, who -inhabit the southern parts of those vast and wild realms, with the -Arapahoes and Navahoes, who are neighbours to the Camanchees on the -West, having Santa Fe on the South, and the coast of California on -the West. Of the Shoshonees and Shoshokies, all travellers who have -spoken of them, give them a good character, as a kind and hospitable -and harmless people; to which fact I could cite the unquestionable -authorities of the excellent Rev. Mr. Parker, who has published his -interesting Tour across the Rocky Mountains—Lewis and Clarke—Capt. -Bonneville and others; and I allege it to be a truth, that the -reason why we find them as they are uniformly described, a kind and -inoffensive people, is, that they have not as yet been abused—that they -are in their primitive state, as the Great Spirit made and endowed them -with good hearts and kind feelings, unalloyed and untainted by the -vices of the money-making world. - -To the same fact, relative to the tribes on the Columbia river, I have -been allowed to quote the authority of H. Beaver, a very worthy and -kind Reverend Gentleman of England, who has been for several years past -living with these people, and writes to me thus:— - -“I shall be always ready, with pleasure, to testify my perfect -accordance with the sentiments I have heard you express, both in -your public lectures, and private conversation, relative to the -much-traduced character of our Red brethren, particularly as it relates -to their _honesty_, _hospitality_ and _peaceableness_, throughout the -length and breadth of the Columbia. Whatever of a contrary disposition -has at any time, in those parts, been displayed by them, has, I -am persuaded been exotic, and forced on them by the depravity and -impositions of the white Traders.” - - [18] Besides these, there are a number of other skulls in the - Collection, most interesting specimens, from various tribes. - - - - - LETTER—No. 49. - - ST. LOUIS. - - -In one of my last Letters from Fort Gibson, written some months since. -I promised to open my note-book on a future occasion, to give some -further account of tribes and remnants of tribes located in that -vicinity, amongst whom I had been spending some time with my pen and -my pencil; and having since that time extended my rambles over much of -that ground again, and also through the regions of the East and South -East, from whence the most of those tribes have emigrated; I consider -this a proper time to say something more of them, and their customs and -condition, before I go farther. - -The most of these, as I have said, are tribes or parts of tribes which -the Government has recently, by means of Treaty stipulations, removed -to that wild and distant country, on to lands which have been given to -them in exchange for their valuable possessions within the States, ten -or twelve hundred miles to the East. - -Of a number of such reduced and removed tribes, who have been located -West of the Missouri, and North of St. Louis, I have already spoken in -a former Letter, and shall yet make brief mention of another, which has -been conducted to the same region—and then direct the attention of the -reader to those which are settled in the neighbourhood of Fort Gibson, -who are the Cherokees—Creeks—Choctaws—Chickasaws—Seminoles, and Euchees. - -The people above alluded to are the - - SHA-WA-NO’S. - -The history of this once powerful tribe is so closely and necessarily -connected with that of the United States, and the revolutionary war, -that it is generally pretty well understood. This tribe formerly -inhabited great parts of the states of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, (and -for the last sixty years,) a part of the states of Ohio and Indiana, -to which they had removed; and now, a considerable portion of them, -a tract of country several hundred miles West of the Mississippi, -which has been conveyed to them by Government in exchange for their -lands in Ohio, from which it is expected the remainder of the tribe -will soon move. It has been said that this tribe came formerly from -Florida, but I do not believe it. The mere fact, that there is found -in East Florida a river by the name of _Su-wa-nee_, which bears some -resemblance to _Sha-wa-no_, seems, as far as I can learn, to be the -principal evidence that has been adduced for the fact. They have -evidently been known, and that within the scope of our authenticated -history, on the Atlantic coast—on the Delaware and Chesapeak bays. -And after that, have fought their way against every sort of trespass -and abuse—against the bayonet and disease, through the states of -Pennsylvania, Delaware and Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Missouri, to -their present location near the Konzas River, at least 1500 miles from -their native country. - -This tribe and the Delawares, of whom I have spoken, were neighbours -on the Atlantic coast, and alternately allies and enemies, have -retrograded and retreated together—have fought their enemies united, -and fought each other, until their remnants that have outlived their -nation’s calamities, have now settled as neighbours together in the -Western wilds; where, it is probable, the sweeping hand of death will -soon relieve _them_ from further necessity of warring or moving; and -the _Government_, from the necessity or policy of proposing to them a -yet more distant home. In their long and disastrous pilgrimage, both -of these tribes laid claim to, and alternately occupied the beautiful -and renowned valley of Wy-ô-ming; and after strewing the Susquehana’s -lovely banks with their bones, and their tumuli, they both yielded at -last to the dire necessity, which follows all civilized intercourse -with natives, and fled to the Alleghany, and at last to the banks of -the Ohio; where necessity soon came again, and again, and again, until -the great _“Guardian” of all “red children”_ placed them where they now -are. - -There are of this tribe remaining about 1200; some few of whom are -agriculturists, and industrious and temperate, and religious people; -but the greater proportion of them are miserably poor and dependent, -having scarcely the ambition to labour or to hunt, and a passion for -whiskey-drinking, that sinks them into the most abject poverty, as they -will give the last thing they possess for a drink of it. - -There is not a tribe on the Continent whose history is more interesting -than that of the Shawanos, nor any one that has produced more -extraordinary men. - -The great Tecumseh, whose name and history I can but barely allude -to at this time, was the chief of this tribe, and perhaps the most -extraordinary Indian of his age. - -The present chief of the tribe _Lay-law-she-kaw_ (he who goes up the -river, +plate+ 211), is a very aged, but extraordinary man, with a -fine and intelligent head, and his ears slit and stretched down to -his shoulders, a custom highly valued in this tribe; which is done -by severing the rim of the ear with a knife, and stretching it down -by wearing heavy weights attached to it at times, to elongate it as -much as possible, making a large orifice, through which, on parades, -&c. they often pass a bunch of arrows of quills, and wear them as -ornaments. - -In this instance (which was not an unusual one), the rims of the ears -were so extended down, that they touched the shoulders, making a ring -through which the whole hand could easily be passed. The daughter of -this old chief, _Ka-te-qua_ (the female eagle, +plate+ 212), was an -agreeable-looking girl, of fifteen years of age, and much thought of by -the tribe. _Pah-te-coo-saw_ (the straight man, +plate+ 213), a warrior -of this tribe, has distinguished himself by his exploits; and when he -sat for his picture, had painted his face in a very curious manner with -black and red paint. - -_Ten-squa-ta-way_ (the open door, +plate+ 214), called the “_Shawnee -Prophet_,” is perhaps one of the most remarkable men, who has -flourished on these frontiers for some time past. This man is brother -of the famous Tecumseh, and quite equal in his _medicines_ or -mysteries, to what his brother was in arms; he was blind in his left -eye, and in his right hand he was holding his “_medicine fire_,” and -his “_sacred string of beans_” in the other. With these mysteries -he made his way through most of the North Western tribes, enlisting -warriors wherever he went, to assist Tecumseh in effecting his great -scheme, of forming a confederacy of all the Indians on the frontier, -to drive back the whites and defend the Indians’ rights; which he told -them could never in any other way be protected. His plan was certainly -a correct one, if not a very great one; and his brother, the Prophet, -exercised his astonishing influence in raising men for him to fight his -battles, and carry out his plans. For this purpose, he started upon -an embassy to the various tribes on the Upper Missouri, nearly all of -which he visited with astonishing success; exhibiting his mystery fire, -and using his sacred string of beans, which every young man who was -willing to go to war, was to touch, thereby taking the solemn oath to -start when called upon, and not to turn back. - -In this most surprising manner, this ingenious man entered the villages -of most of his inveterate enemies, and of others who never had heard -of the name of his tribe; and manœuvred in so successful a way, as to -make his medicines a safe passport for him to all of their villages; -and also the means of enlisting in the different tribes, some eight or -ten thousand warriors, who had solemnly sworn to return with him on his -way back; and to assist in the wars that Tecumseh was to wage against -the whites on the frontier. I found, on my visit to the Sioux—to the -Puncahs, to the Riccarees and the Mandans, that he had been there, -and even to the Blackfeet; and everywhere told them of the potency of -his mysteries, and assured them, that if they allowed the fire to go -out in their wigwams, it would prove fatal to them in every case. He -carried with him into every wigwam that he visited, the image of a -dead person of the size of life; which was made ingeniously of some -light material, and always kept concealed under bandages of thin white -muslin cloths and not to be opened; of this he made great mystery, and -got his recruits to swear by touching a sacred string of white beans, -which he had attached to its neck or some other way secreted about -it. In this way by his extraordinary cunning, he had carried terror -into the country as far as he went; and had actually enlisted some -eight or ten thousand men, who were sworn to follow him home; and in -a few days would have been on their way with him, had not a couple of -his political enemies in his own tribe, followed on his track, even -to those remote tribes, and defeated his plans, by pronouncing him -an impostor; and all of his forms and plans an imposition upon them, -which they would be fools to listen to. In this manner, this great -recruiting officer was defeated in his plans, for raising an army of -men to fight his brother’s battles; and to save his life, he discharged -his medicines as suddenly as possible, and secretly travelled his -way home, over those vast regions, to his own tribe, where the death -of Tecumseh, and the opposition of enemies, killed all his splendid -prospects, and doomed him to live the rest of his days in silence, and -a sort of disgrace; like all men in Indian communities who pretend to -_great medicine_, in any way, and fail; as they all think such failure -an evidence of the displeasure of the Great Spirit, who always judges -right. - -This, no doubt, has been a very shrewd and influential man, but -circumstances have destroyed him, as they have many other great men -before him; and he now lives respected, but silent and melancholy -in his tribe. I conversed with him a great deal about his brother -Tecumseh, of whom he spoke frankly, and seemingly with great pleasure; -but of himself and his own great schemes, he would say nothing. He told -me that Tecumseh’s plans were to embody all the Indian tribes in a -grand confederacy, from the province of Mexico, to the Great Lakes, to -unite their forces in an army that would be able to meet and drive back -the white people, who were continually advancing on the Indian tribes, -and forcing them from their lands towards the Rocky Mountains—that -Tecumseh was a great general, and that nothing but his premature death -defeated his grand plan. - -The Shawanos, like most of the other remnants of tribes, in whose -countries the game has been destroyed, and by the use of whiskey, have -been reduced to poverty and absolute want, have become, to a certain -degree, agriculturists; raising corn and beans, potatoes, hogs, horses, -&c., so as to be enabled, if they could possess anywhere on earth, a -country which they could have a certainty of holding in perpetuity, as -their own, to plant and raise their own crops, and necessaries of life -from the ground. - -The Government have effected with these people, as with most of the -other dispersed tribes, an arrangement by which they are to remove West -of the Mississippi, to lands assigned them; on which they are solemnly -promised a home _for ever_; the uncertain definition of which important -word, time and circumstances alone will determine. - -Besides the personages whom I have above-mentioned, I painted the -portraits of several others of note in the tribe; and amongst them -_Lay-loo-ah-pe-ai-shee-kaw_ (the grass-bush and blossom), whom I -introduce in this place, rather from the very handy and poetical name, -than from any great personal distinction known to have been acquired by -him. - -[Illustration: 211 212] - -[Illustration: 213 214] - - - +The CHER-O-KEES.+ - -Living in the vicinity of, and about Fort Gibson, on the Arkansas, -and 700 miles west of the Mississippi river, are a third part or more -of the once very numerous and powerful tribe who inhabited and still -inhabit, a considerable part of the state of Georgia, and under a -Treaty made with the United States Government, have been removed to -those regions, where they are settled on a fine tract of country; -and having advanced somewhat in the arts and agriculture before they -started, are now found to be mostly living well, cultivating their -fields of corn and other crops, which they raise with great success. - -Under a serious difficulty existing between these people (whom their -former solemn Treaties with the United States Government, were -acknowledged a free and independent nation, with powers to make and -enforce their own laws), and the state of Georgia, which could not -admit such a Government within her sovereignty, it was thought most -expedient by the Government of the United States, to propose to them, -for the fourth or fifth time, to enter into Treaty stipulations again -to move; and by so doing to settle the difficult question with the -state of Georgia, and at the same time, to place them in peaceable -possession of a large tract of fine country, where they would for ever -be free from the continual trespasses and abuses which it was supposed -they would be subjected to, if they were to remain in the state of -Georgia, under the present difficulties and the high excited feelings -which were then existing in the minds of many people along their -borders. - -_John Ross_, a civilized and highly educated and accomplished -gentleman, who is the head-chief of the tribe, (+plate+ 215), and -several of his leading subordinate chiefs, have sternly and steadily -rejected the proposition of such a Treaty; and are yet, with a great -majority of the nation remaining on their own ground in the state of -Georgia, although some six or 7000 of the tribe have several years -since removed to the Arkansas, under the guidance and controul of an -aged and dignified chief by the name of _Jol-lee_ (+plate+ 217). - -This man, like most of the chiefs, as well as a very great proportion -of the Cherokee population, has a mixture of white and red blood in -his veins, of which, in this instance, the first seems decidedly to -predominate. Another chief, and second to this, amongst this portion of -the Cherokees, by the name of Teh-ke-neh-kee (the black coat), I have -also painted and placed in my Collection, as well as a very interesting -specimen of the Cherokee women (+plate+ 216). - -I have travelled pretty generally through the several different -locations of this interesting tribe, both in the Western and Eastern -divisions, and have found them, as well as the Choctaws and Creeks, -their neighbours, very far advanced in the arts; affording to the world -the most satisfactory evidences that are to be found in America, of the -fact, that the Indian was not made to shun and evade good example, and -necessarily to live and die a brute, as many speculating men would -needs record them and treat them, until they are robbed and trampled -into the dust; that no living evidences might give the lie to their -theories, or draw the cloak from their cruel and horrible iniquities. - -As I have repeatedly said to my readers, in the course of my former -epistles, that the greater part of my time would be devoted to the -condition and customs of the tribes that might be found in their -primitive state, they will feel disposed to pardon me for barely -introducing the Cherokees, and several others of these very interesting -tribes, and leaving them and their customs and histories (which are of -themselves enough for volumes), to the reader, who is, perhaps, nearly -as familiar as I am myself, with the full and fair accounts of these -people, who have had their historians and biographers. - -The history of the Cherokees and other numerous remnants of tribes, -who are the exhabitants of the finest and most valued portions of the -United States, is a subject of great interest and importance, and has -already been woven into the most valued histories of the country, as -well as forming material parts of the archives of the Government, which -is my excuse for barely introducing the reader to them, and beckoning -him off again to the native and untrodden wilds, to teach him something -new and unrecorded. Yet I leave the subject, as I left the people (to -whom I became attached, for their kindness and friendship), with a -heavy heart, wishing them success and the blessing of the Great Spirit, -who alone can avert the _doom_ that would almost seem to be fixed for -their unfortunate race. - -The Cherokees amount in all to about 22,000, 16,000 of whom are yet -living in Georgia, under the Government of their chief, John Ross, -whose name I have before mentioned; with this excellent man, who has -been for many years devotedly opposed to the Treaty stipulations for -moving from their country, I have been familiarly acquainted; and, -notwithstanding the bitter invective and animadversions that have been -by his political enemies heaped upon him, I feel authorized, and bound, -to testify to the unassuming and gentlemanly urbanity of his manners, -as well as to the rigid temperance of his habits, and the purity of -his language, in which I never knew him to transgress for a moment, in -public or private interviews. - -At this time, the most strenuous endeavours are making on the part -of the Government and the state of Georgia, for the completion of an -arrangement for the removal of the whole of this tribe, as well as -of the Choctaws and Seminoles; and I have not a doubt of their final -success, which seems, from all former experience, to attend every -project of the kind made by the Government to their red children.[19] - -[Illustration: 215 216] - -[Illustration: 217 218] - -[Illustration: 219 220] - -[Illustration: 221 222] - -It is not for me to decide, nor in this place to reason, as to the -justice or injustice of the treatment of these people at the hands of -the Government or individuals; or of the wisdom of the policy which is -to place them in a new, though vast and fertile country, 1000 miles -from the land of their birth, in the doubtful dilemma whether to break -the natural turf with their rusting ploughshares, or string their bows, -and dash over the boundless prairies, beckoned on by the alluring -dictates of their nature, seeking laurels amongst the ranks of their -new enemies, and subsistence amongst the herds of buffaloes. - -Besides the Cherokees in Georgia, and those that I have spoken of in -the neighbourhood of Fort Gibson, there is another band or family -of the same tribe, of several hundreds, living on the banks of the -Canadian river, an hundred or more miles South West of Fort Gibson, -under the Government of a distinguished chief by the name of _Tuch-ee_ -(familiarly called by the white people, “_Dutch_,” +plate+ 218). This -is one of the most extraordinary men that lives on the frontiers at -the present day, both for his remarkable history, and for his fine and -manly figure, and character of face. - -This man was in the employment of the Government as a guide and hunter -for the regiment of dragoons, on their expedition to the Camanchees, -where I had him for a constant companion for several months, and -opportunities in abundance, for studying his true character, and -of witnessing his wonderful exploits in the different varieties of -the chase. The history of this man’s life has been very curious and -surprising; and I sincerely hope that some one, with more leisure and -more talent than myself, will take it up, and do it justice. I promise -that the life of this man furnishes the best materials for a popular -tale, that are now to be procured on the Western frontier. - -He is familiarly known, and much of his life, to all the officers who -have been stationed at Fort Gibson, or at any of the posts in that -region of country. - -Some twenty years or more since, becoming fatigued and incensed with -civilized encroachments, that were continually making on the borders of -the Cherokee country in Georgia, where he then resided, and probably, -foreseeing the disastrous results they were to lead to, he beat up -for volunteers to emigrate to the West, where he had designed to go, -and colonize in a wild country beyond the reach and contamination of -civilized innovations; and succeeded in getting several hundred men, -women, and children, whom he led over the banks of the Mississippi, and -settled upon the head waters of White River, where they lived until -the appearance of white faces, which began to peep through the forests -at them, when they made another move of 600 miles to the banks of the -Canadian, where they now reside; and where, by the system of desperate -warfare, which he has carried on against the Osages and the Camanchees, -he has successfully cleared away from a large tract of fine country, -all the enemies that could contend for it, and now holds it, with his -little band of myrmidons, as their own undisputed soil, where they are -living comfortably by raising from the soil fine crops of corn and -potatoes, and other necessaries of life; whilst they indulge whenever -they please, in the pleasures of the chase amongst the herds of -buffaloes, or in the natural propensity for ornamenting their dresses -and their war-clubs with the scalp-locks of their enemies. - - - +The CREEKS (or MUS-KO-GEES).+ - -Of 20,000 in numbers, have, until quite recently, occupied an immense -tract of country in the states of Mississippi and Alabama; but by a -similar arrangement (and for a similar purpose) with the Government, -have exchanged their possessions there for a country, adjoining to -the Cherokees, on the South side of the Arkansas, to which they have -already all removed, and on which, like the Cherokees, they are laying -out fine farms, and building good houses, in which they live; in many -instances, surrounded by immense fields of corn and wheat. There is -scarcely a finer country on earth than that now owned by the Creeks; -and in North America, certainly no Indian tribe more advanced in the -arts and agriculture than they are. It is no uncommon thing to see a -Creek with twenty or thirty slaves at work on his plantation, having -brought them from a slave-holding country, from which, in their long -journey, and exposure to white man’s ingenuity, I venture to say, that -most of them got rid of one-half of them, whilst on their long and -disastrous crusade. - -The Creeks, as well as the Cherokees and Choctaws, have good schools -and churches established amongst them, conducted by excellent and pious -men, from whose example they are drawing great and lasting benefits. - -In +plates+ 219 and 220, I have given the portraits of two -distinguished men, and I believe, both chiefs. The first by the name of -_Stee-cha-co-me-co_ (the great king), familiarly called “Ben Perryman;” -and the other. _Hol-te-mal-te-tez-te-neehk-ee_ (——), called “Sam -Perryman.” These two men are brothers, and are fair specimens of the -tribe, who are mostly clad in calicoes, and other cloths of civilized -manufacture; tasselled and fringed oft by themselves in the most -fantastic way, and sometimes with much true and picturesque taste. They -use a vast many beads, and other trinkets, to hang upon their necks, -and ornament their moccasins and beautiful belts. - - - +The CHOCTAWS.+ - -Of fifteen thousand, are another tribe, removed from the Northern -parts of Alabama, and Mississippi, within the few years past, and now -occupying a large and rich tract of country, South of the Arkansas and -the Canadian rivers; adjoining to the country of the Creeks and the -Cherokees, equally civilized, and living much in the same manner. - -[Illustration: 223] - -In this tribe I painted the portrait of their famous and excellent -chief, _Mo-sho-la-tub-bee_ (he who puts out and kills, +plate+ 221), -who has since died of the small-pox. In the same plate will also be -seen, the portrait of a distinguished and very gentlemanly man, who -has been well-educated, and who gave me much curious and valuable -information, of the history and traditions of his tribe. The name of -this man, is _Ha-tchoc-tuck-nee_ (the snapping turtle, +plate+ 222), -familiarly called by the whites “_Peter Pinchlin_.” - -These people seem, even in their troubles, to be happy; and have, -like all the other remnants of tribes, preserved with great tenacity -their different games, which it would seem they are everlastingly -practicing for want of other occupations or amusements in life. Whilst -I was staying at the Choctaw agency in the midst of their nation, it -seemed to be a sort of season of amusements, a kind of holiday; when -the whole tribe almost, were assembled around the establishment, and -from day to day we were entertained with some games or feats that were -exceedingly amusing: horse-racing, dancing, wrestling, foot-racing, and -ball-playing, were amongst the most exciting; and of all the catalogue, -the most beautiful, was decidedly that of ball-playing. This wonderful -game, which is the favourite one amongst all the tribes, and with these -Southern tribes played exactly the same, can never be appreciated by -those who are not happy enough to see it. - -It is no uncommon occurrence for six or eight hundred or a thousand of -these young men, to engage in a game of ball, with five or six times -that number of spectators, of men, women and children, surrounding the -ground, and looking on. And I pronounce such a scene, with its hundreds -of Nature’s most beautiful models, denuded, and painted of various -colours, running and leaping into the air, in all the most extravagant -and varied forms, in the desperate struggles for the ball, a school for -the painter or sculptor, equal to any of those which ever inspired the -hand of the artist in the Olympian games or the Roman forum. - -I have made it an uniform rule, whilst in the Indian country, to -attend every ball-play I could hear of, if I could do it by riding a -distance of twenty or thirty miles; and my usual custom has been on -such occasions, to straddle the back of my horse, and look on to the -best advantage. In this way I have sat, and oftentimes reclined, and -almost dropped from my horse’s back, with irresistible laughter at the -succession of droll tricks, and kicks and scuffles which ensue, in -the almost superhuman struggles for the ball. These plays generally -commence at nine o’clock, or near it, in the morning; and I have more -than once balanced myself on my pony, from that time till near sundown, -without more than one minute of intermission at a time, before the game -has been decided. - -It is impossible for pen and ink alone, or brushes, or even with their -combined efforts, to give more than a _caricature_ of such a scene; but -such as I have been able to do, I have put upon the canvass, and in -the slight outlines which I have here attached in +plates+ 224, 225, -226, taken from those paintings, (for the colouring to which the reader -must look to my pen,) I will convey as correct an account as I can, and -leave the reader to imagine the rest; or look to _other books_ for what -I may have omitted. - -While at the Choctaw agency it was announced, that there was to be a -great play on a certain day, within a few miles, on which occasion I -attended, and made the three sketches which are hereto annexed; and -also the following entry in my note-book, which I literally copy out. - -“Monday afternoon at three, o’clock, I rode out with Lieutenants S. -and M., to a very pretty prairie, about six miles distant, to the -ball-play-ground of the Choctaws, where we found several thousand -Indians encamped. There were two points of timber about half a mile -apart, in which the two parties for the play, with their respective -families and friends, were encamped; and lying between them, the -prairie on which the game was to be played. My companions and myself, -although we had been apprised, that to see the whole of a ball-play, -we must remain on the ground all the night previous, had brought -nothing to sleep upon, resolving to keep our eyes open, and see what -transpired through the night. During the afternoon, we loitered about -amongst the different tents and shantees of the two encampments, and -afterwards, at sundown, witnessed the ceremony of measuring out the -ground, and erecting the “byes” or goals which were to guide the play. -Each party had their goal made with two upright posts, about 25 feet -high and six feet apart, set firm in the ground, with a pole across -at the top. These goals were about forty or fifty rods apart; and at -a point just half way between, was another small stake, driven down, -where the ball was to be thrown up at the firing of a gun, to be -struggled for by the players. All this preparation was made by some -old men, who were, it seems, selected to be the judges of the play, -who drew a line from one bye to the other; to which directly came from -the woods, on both sides, a great concourse of women and old men, -boys and girls, and dogs and horses, where bets were to be made on -the play. The betting was all done across this line, and seemed to be -chiefly left to the women, who seemed to have martialled out a little -of everything that their houses and their fields possessed. Goods and -chattels—knives—dresses—blankets—pots and kettles—dogs and horses, and -guns; and all were placed in the possession of _stake-holders_, who sat -by them, and watched them on the ground all night, preparatory to the -play. - -The sticks with which this tribe play, are bent into an oblong hoop -at the end, with a sort of slight web of small thongs tied across, to -prevent the ball from passing through. The players hold one of these in -each hand, and by leaping into the air, they catch the ball between the -two nettings and throw it, without being allowed to strike it, or catch -it in their hands. - -The mode in which these sticks are constructed and used, will be seen -in the portrait of _Tullock-chish-ko_ (he who drinks the juice of the -stone), the most distinguished ball-player of the Choctaw nation -(+plate+ 223), represented in his ball-play dress, with his ball-sticks -in his hands. In every ball-play of these people, it is a rule of the -play, that no man shall wear moccasins on his feet, or any other dress -than his breech-cloth around his waist, with a beautiful bead belt, -and a “tail,” made of white horsehair or quills, and a “_mane_” on the -neck, of horsehair dyed of various colours. - -This game had been arranged and “made up,” three or four months before -the parties met to play it, and in the following manner:—The two -champions who led the two parties, and had the alternate choosing of -the players through the whole tribe, sent runners, with the ball-sticks -most fantastically ornamented with ribbons and red paint, to be touched -by each one of the chosen players; who thereby agreed to be on the -spot at the appointed time and ready for the play. The ground having -been all prepared and preliminaries of the game all settled, and the -bettings all made, and goods all “staked,” night came on without -the appearance of any players on the ground. But soon after dark, a -procession of lighted flambeaux was seen coming from each encampment, -to the ground where the players assembled around their respective -byes; and at the beat of the drums and chaunts of the women, each -party of players commenced the “ball-play dance” (+plate+ 224). Each -party danced for a quarter of an hour around their respective byes, -in their ball-play dress; rattling their ball-sticks together in the -most violent manner, and all singing as loud as they could raise their -voices; whilst the women of each party, who had their goods at stake, -formed into two rows on the line between the two parties of players, -and danced also, in an uniform step, and all their voices joined in -chaunts to the Great Spirit; in which they were soliciting his favour -in deciding the game to their advantage; and also encouraging the -players to exert every power they possessed, in the struggle that -was to ensue. In the mean time, four old _medicine-men_, who were to -have the starting of the ball, and who were to be judges of the play, -were seated at the point where the ball was to be started; and busily -smoking to the Great Spirit for their success in judging rightly, and -impartially, between the parties in so important an affair. - -This dance was one of the most picturesque scenes imaginable, and was -repeated at intervals of every half hour during the night, and exactly -in the same manner; so that the players were certainly awake all the -night, and arranged in their appropriate dress, prepared for the play -which was to commence at nine o’clock the next morning. In the morning, -at the hour, the two parties and all their friends, were drawn out -and over the ground; when at length the game commenced, by the judges -throwing up the ball at the firing of a gun; when an instant struggle -ensued between the players, who were some six or seven hundred in -numbers, and were mutually endeavouring to catch the ball in their -sticks, and throw it home and between their respective stakes; which, -whenever successfully done, counts one for game. In this game every -player was dressed alike, that is, _divested_ of all dress, except -the girdle and the tail, which I have before described; and in these -desperate struggles for the ball, when it is _up_ (+plate+ 225, where -hundreds are running together and leaping, actually over each other’s -heads, and darting between their adversaries’ legs, tripping and -throwing, and foiling each other in every possible manner, and every -voice raised to the highest key, in shrill yelps and barks)! there are -rapid successions of feats, and of incidents, that astonish and amuse -far beyond the conception of any one who has not had the singular good -luck to witness them. In these struggles, every mode is used that can -be devised, to oppose the progress of the foremost, who is likely to -get the ball; and these obstructions often meet desperate individual -resistance, which terminates in a violent scuffle, and sometimes -in fisticuffs; when their sticks are dropped, and the parties are -unmolested, whilst they are settling it between themselves; unless it -be by a general _stampede_, to which they are subject who are down, if -the ball happens to pass in their direction. Every weapon, by a rule of -all ball-plays, is laid by in their respective encampments, and no man -allowed to go for one; so that the sudden broils that take place on the -ground, are presumed to be as suddenly settled without any probability -of much personal injury; and no one is allowed to interfere in any way -with the contentious individuals. - -There are times, when the ball gets to the ground (+plate+ 226), -and such a confused mass rushing together around it, and knocking -their sticks together, without the possibility of any one getting or -seeing it, for the dust that they raise, that the spectator loses his -strength, and everything else but his senses; when the condensed mass -of ball-sticks, and shins, and bloody noses, is carried around the -different parts of the ground, for a quarter of an hour at a time, -without any one of the mass being able to see the ball; and which they -are often thus scuffling for, several minutes after it has been thrown -off, and played over another part of the ground. - -For each time that the ball was passed between the stakes of either -party, one was counted for their game, and a halt of about one minute; -when it was again started by the judges of the play, and a similar -struggle ensued; and so on until the successful party arrived to 100, -which was the limit of the game, and accomplished at an hour’s sun, -when they took the stakes; and then, by a previous agreement, produced -a number of jugs of whiskey, which gave all a wholesome drink, and sent -them all off merry and in good humour, but not drunk. - -After this exciting day, the concourse was assembled in the vicinity -of the agency house, where we had a great variety of dances and other -amusements; the most of which I have described on former occasions. -One, however, was new to me, and I must say a few words of it: this was -the _Eagle Dance_, a very pretty scene, which is got up by their young -men, in honour of that bird, for which they seem to have a religious -regard. This picturesque dance was given by twelve or sixteen men, -whose bodies were chiefly naked and painted white, with white clay, and -each one holding in his hand the tail of the eagle, while his -head was also decorated with an eagle’s quill (+plate+ 227). Spears -were stuck in the ground, around which the dance was performed by four -men at a time, who had simultaneously, at the beat of the drum, jumped -up from the ground where they had all sat in rows of four, one row -immediately behind the other, and ready to take the place of the first -four when they left the ground fatigued, which they did by hopping or -jumping around behind the rest, and taking their seats, ready to come -up again in their turn, after each of the other sets had been through -the same forms. - -[Illustration: 224] - -[Illustration: 225] - -[Illustration: 226] - -In this dance, the steps or rather jumps, were different from anything -I had ever witnessed before, as the dancers were squat down, with their -bodies almost to the ground, in a severe and most difficult posture, as -will have been seen in the drawing. - -I have already, in a former Letter, while speaking of the ancient -custom of flattening the head, given a curious tradition of this -interesting tribe, accounting for their having come from the West, and -I here insert another or two, which I had, as well as the former one, -from the lips of Peter Pinchlin, a very intelligent and influential man -in the tribe, of whom I have spoken in page 123. - -_The Deluge._ “Our people have always had a tradition of the Deluge, -which happened in this way:—there was total darkness for a great time -over the whole of the earth; the Choctaw doctors or mystery-men looked -out for daylight for a long time, until at last they despaired of ever -seeing it, and the whole nation were very unhappy. At last a light was -discovered in the North and there was great rejoicing, until it was -found to be great mountains of water rolling on, which destroyed them -all, except a few families who had expected it and built a great raft, -on which they were saved.” - -_Future State._ “Our people all believe that the spirit lives in a -future state—that it has a great distance to travel after death towards -the West—that it has to cross a dreadful deep and rapid stream, which -is hemmed in on both sides by high and rugged hills—over this stream, -from hill to hill, there lies a long and slippery pine-log, with the -bark peeled off, over which the dead have to pass to the delightful -hunting-grounds. On the other side of the stream there are six persons -of the good hunting-grounds, with rocks in their hands, which they -throw at them all when they are on the middle of the log. The good walk -on safely, to the good hunting-grounds, where there is one continual -day—where the trees are always green—where the sky has no clouds—where -there are continual fine and cooling breezes—where there is one -continual scene of feasting, dancing and rejoicing—where there is no -pain or trouble, and people never grow old, but for ever live young and -enjoy the youthful pleasures. - -“The wicked see the stones coming, and try to dodge, by which they fall -from the log, and go down thousands of feet to the water, which is -dashing over the rocks, and is stinking with dead fish, and animals, -where they are carried around and brought continually back to the same -place in whirlpools—where the trees are all dead, and the waters are -full of toads and lizards, and snakes—where the dead are always hungry, -and have nothing to eat—are always sick, and never die—where the sun -never shines, and where the wicked are continually climbing up by -thousands on the sides of a high rock from which they can overlook the -beautiful country of the good hunting-grounds, the place of the happy, -but never can reach it.” - -Origin of the _Craw-fish band_. “Our people have amongst them a band -which is called, the _Craw-fish band_. They formerly, but at a very -remote period, lived under ground, and used to come up out of the -mud—they were a species of craw-fish; and they went on their hands and -feet, and lived in a large cave deep under ground, where there was no -light for several miles. They spoke no language at all, nor could they -understand any. The entrance to their cave was through the mud—and -they used to run down through that, and into their cave; and thus, the -Choctaws were for a long time unable to molest them. The Choctaws used -to lay and wait for them to come out into the sun, where they would try -to talk to them, and cultivate an acquaintance. - -“One day, a parcel of them were run upon so suddenly by the Choctaws, -that they had no time to go through the mud into their cave, but -were driven into it by another entrance, which they had through the -rocks. The Choctaws then tried a long time to smoke them out, and -at last succeeded—they treated them kindly—taught them the Choctaw -language—taught them to walk on two legs—made them cut off their toe -nails, and pluck the hair from their bodies, after which they adopted -them into their nation—and the remainder of them are living under -ground to this day.” - -[Illustration: 227] - - [19] Since writing the above, the Government have succeeded in - removing the remainder of the Cherokees beyond the Mississippi, - where they have taken up their residence along side of their old - friends, who emigrated several years since under _Jol-lee_, as - I have before mentioned. In the few years past, the Government - has also succeeded in stipulating with, and removing West of the - Mississippi, nearly every remnant of tribes spoken of in this - and the two last Letters, so that there are at this time but - a few hundreds of the red men East of the Mississippi; and it - is probable, that a few months more will effect the removal of - the remainder of them. See their present locations West of the - Mississippi, on the map at the beginning of this Volume. - - - - - LETTER—No. 50. - - FORT SNELLING, _FALL OF ST. ANTHONY_. - - -Having recruited my health during the last winter, in recreation and -amusements on the Coast of Florida, like a _bird of passage_ I started, -at the rallying notes of the swan and the wild goose, for the cool and -freshness of the North, but the gifted passengers soon left me behind. -I found them here, their nests built—their eggs hatched—their offspring -fledged and figuring in the world, before I arrived. - -The majestic river from the Balize to the Fall of St. Anthony, I have -just passed over; with a high-wrought mind filled with amazement -and wonder, like other travellers who occasionally leave the stale -and profitless routine of the “Fashionable Tour,” to gaze with -admiration upon the wild and native grandeur and majesty of this -great Western world. The Upper Mississippi, like the Upper Missouri, -must be approached to be appreciated; for all that can be seen on the -Mississippi below St. Louis, or for several hundred miles above it, -gives no hint or clue to the magnificence of the scenes which are -continually opening to the view of the traveller, and riveting him to -the deck of the steamer, through sunshine, lightning or rain, from the -mouth of the Ouisconsin to the Fall of St. Anthony. - -The traveller in ascending the river, will see but little of -picturesque beauty in the landscape, until he reaches Rock Island; and -from that point he will find it growing gradually more interesting, -until he reaches Prairie du Chien; and from that place until he arrives -at Lake Pepin, every reach and turn in the river presents to his eye -a more immense and magnificent scene of grandeur and beauty. From day -to day, the eye is riveted in listless, tireless admiration, upon the -thousand bluffs which tower in majesty above the river on either side, -and alternate as the river bends, into countless fascinating forms. - -The whole face of the country is covered with a luxuriant growth of -grass, whether there is timber or not; and the magnificent bluffs, -studding the sides of the river, and rising in the forms of immense -cones, domes and ramparts, give peculiar pleasure, from the deep and -soft green in which they are clad up their broad sides, and to their -extreme tops, with a carpet of grass, with spots and clusters of timber -of a deeper green; and apparently in many places, arranged in orchards -and pleasure-grounds by the hands of art. - -The scenes that are passed between Prairie du Chien and St. Peters, -including Lake Pepin, between whose magnificently turretted shores one -passes for twenty-two miles, will amply reward the tourist for the -time and expense of a visit to them. And to him or her of too little -relish for Nature’s rude works, to profit as they pass, there will be -found a redeeming pleasure at the mouth of St. Peters and the Fall of -St. Anthony. This scene has often been described, and I leave it for -the world to come and gaze upon for themselves; recommending to them at -the same time, to denominate the next “Fashionable Tour,” a trip to St. -Louis; thence by steamer to Rock Island, Galena, Dubuque, Prairie du -Chien, Lake Pepin, St. Peters, Fall of St. Anthony, back to Prairie du -Chien, from thence to Fort Winnebago, Green Bay, Mackinaw, Sault de St. -Mary, Detroit, Buffalo, Niagara, and home. This Tour would comprehend -but a small part of the great “Far West;” but it will furnish to the -traveller a fair sample, and being a part of it which is now made -so easily accessible to the world, and the only part of it to which -_ladies_ can have access, I would recommend to all who have time and -inclination to devote to the enjoyment of so splendid a Tour, to wait -not, but make it while the subject is new, and capable of producing the -greatest degree of pleasure. To the world at large, this trip is one of -surpassing interest—to the artist it has a double relish, and to _me_, -still further inducements; inasmuch as, many of the tribes of Indians -which I have met with, furnish manners and customs which have awakened -my enthusiasm, and afforded me interesting materials for my Gallery. - -To give to the reader a better idea of the character of the scenes -which I have above described, along the stately shores of the Upper -Mississippi, I have here inserted a river view taken about one hundred -miles below this place (+plate+ 228); and another of “Dubuque’s Grave” -(+plate+ 229) about equi-distant between this and St. Louis; and both -fairly setting forth the predominant character of the shores of the -Upper Mississippi, which are every where covered, as far as the eye can -behold, with a green turf, and occasional forest trees, as seen in the -drawings. - -_Dubuque’s Grave_ is a place of great notoriety on this river, in -consequence of its having been the residence and mining place of the -first lead mining pioneer of these regions, by the name of Dubuque, who -held his title under a grant from the Mexican Government (I think), and -settled by the side of this huge bluff, on the pinnacle of which he -erected the tomb to receive his own body, and placed over it a cross -with his own inscription on it. After his death, his body was placed -within the tomb, at his request, lying in state (and uncovered except -with his winding-sheet), upon a large flat stone, where it was exposed -to the view, as his bones now are, to the gaze, of every traveller who -takes the pains to ascend this beautiful, grassy and lilly-covered -mound to the top, and peep through the gratings of two little windows, -which have admitted the eyes, but stopped the sacrilegious _hands_ of -thousands who have taken a walk to it. - -At the foot of this bluff, there is now an extensive smelting furnace, -where vast quantities of lead are melted from the ores which are dug -out of the hills in all directions about it. - -[Illustration: 228] - -[Illustration: 229] - -[Illustration: 230] - -[Illustration: 231] - -The _Fall of St. Anthony_ (+plate+ 230), which is 900 miles above St. -Louis, is the natural curiosity of this country, and nine miles above -the mouth of St. Peters, from whence I am at this time writing. At this -place, on the point of land between the Mississippi and the St. Peters -rivers, the United States’ Government have erected a strong Fort, which -has taken the name of Fort Snelling, from the name of a distinguished -and most excellent officer of that name, who superintended the building -of it. The site of this Fort is one of the most judicious that could -have been selected in the country, both for health and defence; and -being on an elevation of 100 feet or more above the water, has an -exceedingly bold and picturesque effect, as seen in +plate+ 231. - -This Fort is generally occupied by a regiment of men placed here to -keep the peace amongst the Sioux and Chippeways, who occupy the country -about it, and also for the purpose of protecting the citizens on the -frontier. - -The Fall of St. Anthony is about nine miles above this Fort, and the -junction of the two rivers; and, although a picturesque and spirited -scene, is but a pigmy in size to Niagara, and other cataracts in our -country—the actual perpendicular fall being but eighteen feet, though -of half a mile or so in extent, which is the width of the river; with -brisk and leaping rapids above and below, giving life and spirit to the -scene. - -The Sioux who live in the vicinity of the Falls, and occupy all the -country about here, West of the Mississippi, are a part of the great -tribe on the Upper Missouri; and the same in most of their customs, -yet very dissimilar in personal appearance, from the changes which -civilized examples have wrought upon them. I mentioned in a former -Letter, that the country of the Sioux, extended from the base of the -Rocky Mountains to the banks of the Mississippi; and for the whole of -that way, it is more or less settled by this immense tribe, bounding -the East side of their country by the Mississippi River. - -The Sioux in these parts, who are out of reach of the beavers and -buffaloes, are poor and very meanly clad, compared to those on the -Missouri, where they are in the midst of those and other wild animals, -whose skins supply them with picturesque and comfortable dresses. The -same deterioration also is seen in the morals and constitutions of -these, as amongst all other Indians, who live along the frontiers, in -the vicinity of our settlements, where whiskey is sold to them, and the -small-pox and other diseases are introduced to shorten their lives. - -The principal bands of the Sioux that visit this place, and who live in -the vicinity of it, are those known as the Black Dog’s band—Red Wing’s -band, and Wa-be-sha’s band; each band known in common parlance, by the -name of its chief, as I have mentioned. The Black Dog’s band reside but -a few miles above Fort Snelling, on the banks of the St. Peters, and -number some five or six hundred. The Red Wing’s band are at the head of -Lake Pepin, sixty miles below this place on the West side of the river. -And Wa-be-sha’s band and village are some sixty or more miles below -Lake Pepin on the West side of the river, on a beautiful prairie, known -(and ever will be) by the name of “Wa-be-sha’s prairie.” Each of these -bands, and several others that live in this section of country, exhibit -considerable industry in their agricultural pursuits, raising very -handsome corn-fields, laying up their food, thus procured, for their -subsistence during the long and tedious winters. - -The greater part of the inhabitants of these bands are assembled here -at this time, affording us, who are visitors here, a fine and wild -scene of dances, amusements, &c. They seem to take great pleasure in -“showing off” in these scenes, to the amusement of the many fashionable -visitors, both ladies and gentlemen, who are in the habit of reaching -this post, as steamers are arriving at this place every week in the -summer from St. Louis. - -Many of the customs of these people create great surprise in the minds -of the travellers of the East, who here have the first satisfactory -opportunity of seeing them; and none, I observe, has created more -surprise, and pleasure also, particularly amongst the ladies, than -the mode of carrying their infants, slung on their backs, in their -beautifully ornamented cradles. - -The custom of carrying the child thus is not peculiar to this tribe, -but belongs alike to all, as far as I have yet visited them; and also -as far as I have been able to learn from travellers, who have been -amongst tribes that I have not yet seen. The child in its earliest -infancy, has its back lashed to a straight board, being fastened to -it by bandages, which pass around it in front, and on the back of the -board they are tightened to the necessary degree by lacing strings, -which hold it in a straight and healthy position, with its feet resting -on a broad hoop, which passes around the foot of the cradle, and the -child’s position (as it rides about on its mother’s back, supported -by a broad strap that passes across her forehead), that of standing -erect, which, no doubt, has a tendency to produce straight limbs, sound -lungs, and long life. In +plate+ 232, letter _a_, is a correct drawing -of a Sioux cradle, which is in my Collection, and was purchased from a -Sioux woman’s back, as she was carrying her infant in it, as is seen in -letter _d_ of the same plate. - -In this instance, as is often the case, the bandages that pass around -the cradle, holding the child in, are all the way covered with a -beautiful embroidery of porcupine quills, with ingenious figures of -horses, men, &c. A broad hoop of elastic wood passes around in front of -the child’s face, to protect it in case of a fall, from the front of -which is suspended a little toy of exquisite embroidery, for the child -to handle and amuse itself with. To this and other little trinkets -hanging in front of it, there are attached many little tinselled and -tinkling things, of the brightest colours, to amuse both the eyes and -the ears of the child. Whilst travelling on horseback, the arms of -the child are fastened under the bandages, so as not to be endangered -if the cradle falls; and when at rest, they are generally taken out, -allowing the infant to reach and amuse itself with the little toys -and trinkets that are placed before it, and within its reach. This -seems like a cruel mode, but I am inclined to believe that it is a -very good one for the people who use it, and well adapted to the -circumstances under which they live; in support of which opinion, I -offer the universality of the custom, which has been practiced for -centuries amongst all the tribes of North America, as a legitimate and -very strong reason. It is not true that amongst all the tribes the -cradle will be found so much ornamented as in the present instance; but -the model is essentially the same, as well as the mode of carrying it. - -[Illustration: 232] - -Along the frontiers, where the Indians have been ridiculed for the -custom, as they are for everything that is not _civil_ about them, they -have in many instances departed from it; but even there, they will -generally be seen lugging their child about in this way, when they have -abandoned almost every other native custom, and are too poor to cover -it with more than rags and strings, which fasten it to its cradle. - -The infant is carried in this manner until it is five, six or seven -months old, after which it is carried on the back, in the manner -represented in two of the figures of the same plate, and held within -the folds of the robe of blanket. - -The modes of carrying the infant when riding, are also here shewn, and -the manner in which the women ride, which, amongst all the tribes, is -_astride_, in the same manner as that practiced by the men. - -Letter _b_ in the same plate is a _mourning cradle_, and opens to the -view of the reader another very curious and interesting custom. If the -infant dies during the time that is allotted to it to be carried in -this cradle, it is buried, and the disconsolate mother fills the cradle -with black quills and feathers, in the parts which the child’s body had -occupied, and in this way carries it around with her wherever she goes -for a year or more, with as much care as if her infant were alive and -in it; and she often lays or stands it leaning against the side of the -wigwam, where she is all day engaged in her needle-work, and chatting -and talking to it as familiarly and affectionately as if it were her -loved infant, instead of its shell, that she was talking to. So lasting -and so strong is the affection of these women for the lost child, that -it matters not how heavy or cruel their load, or how rugged the route -they have to pass over, they will faithfully carry this, and carefully -from day to day, and even more strictly perform their duties to it, -than if the child were alive and in it. - -In the little toy that I have mentioned, and which is suspended before -the child’s face, is carefully and superstitiously preserved the -_umbilicus_, which is always secured at the time of its birth, and -being rolled up into a little wad of the size of a pea, and dried, -it is enclosed in the centre of this little bag, and placed before -the child’s face, as its protector and its security for “_good luck_” -and long life. Letter _c_, same plate, exhibits a number of forms -and different tastes of several of these little toys, which I have -purchased from the women, which they were very willing to sell for -a trifling present; but in every instance, they cut them open, and -removed from within a bunch of cotton or moss, the little sacred -_medicine_, which, to part with, would be to “endanger the health of -the child”—a thing that no consideration would have induced them in any -instance to have done. - -My brush has been busily employed at this place, as in others; and -amongst the dignitaries that I have painted, is, first and foremost, -_Wa-nah-de-tunck-a_ (the big eagle), commonly called the “Black -Dog” (+plate+ 234). This is a very noted man, and chief of the -_O-hah-kas-ka-toh-y-an-te_ (long avenue) band. - -By the side of him _Toh-to-wah-kon-da-pee_ (the blue medicine—+plate+ -233), a noted medicine-man, of the Ting-tah-to-a band; with his -medicine or mystery drum, made of deer-skins; and his mystery rattles -made of antelopes’ hoofs, in his hands. This notorious old man was -professionally a doctor in his tribe, but not very distinguished, until -my friend Dr. Jarvis, who is surgeon for the post, very liberally dealt -out from the public medicine-chest, occasional “odds and ends” to him, -and with a _professional concern_ for the poor old fellow’s success, -instructed him in the modes of their application; since which, the -effects of his prescriptions have been so decided amongst his tribe, -whom he holds in ignorance of his aid in his mysterious operations; -that he has risen quite rapidly into notice, within the few last years, -in the vicinity of the Fort; where he finds it most easy to carry out -his new mode of practice, for reasons above mentioned. - -In +plates+ 235 and 236, there are portraits of the two most -distinguished ball-players in the Sioux tribe, whose names -are _Ah-no-je-nahge_ (he who stands on both sides), and -_We-chush-ta-doo-ta_ (the red man). Both of these young men stood to -me for their portraits, in the dresses precisely in which they are -painted; with their ball-sticks in their hands, and in the attitudes of -the play. We have had several very spirited plays here within the few -past days; and each of these young men came from the ball-play ground -to my painting-room, in the dress in which they had just struggled in -the play. - -It will be seen by these sketches, that the custom in this tribe, -differs in some respects from that of the Choctaws and other Southern -tribes, of which I have before spoken; and I there showed that they -played with a stick in each hand, when the Sioux use but one stick, -which is generally held in both hands, with a round hoop at the end, in -which the ball is caught and thrown with wonderful tact; a much more -difficult feat, I should think, than that of the Choctaws, who catch -the ball between two sticks. The tail also, in this tribe, differs, -inasmuch as it is generally made of quills, instead of white horsehair, -as described amongst the Choctaws. In other respects, the rules and -manner of the game are the same as amongst those tribes. - -Several others of the _distingués_ of the tribe, I have also painted -here, and must needs refer the reader to the Museum for further -information of them. - -[Illustration: 233] - -[Illustration: 234] - -[Illustration: 235] - -[Illustration: 236] - - - - - LETTER—No. 51. - - FORT SNELLING, _FALL OF ST. ANTHONY_. - - -The fourth of July was hailed and celebrated by us at this place, in -an unusual, and not uninteresting manner. With the presence of several -hundreds of the wildest of the Chippeways, and as many hundreds of the -Sioux; we were prepared with material in abundance for the novel—for -the wild and grotesque,—as well as for the grave and ludicrous. Major -Talliafferro, the Indian agent, to aid my views in procuring sketches -of manners and customs, represented to them that I was a great -_medicine-man_, who had visited, and witnessed the sports of, a vast -many Indians of different tribes, and had come to see whether the Sioux -and Chippeways were equal in a ball-play, &c. to their neighbours; and -that if they would come in on the _next_ day (fourth of July), and -give us a ball-play, and some of their dances, in their best style, he -would have the _big gun_ fired twenty-one times (the customary salute -for that day), which they easily construed into a high compliment to -themselves. This, with still stronger inducements, a barrel of flour—a -quantity of pork and tobacco, which I gave them, brought the scene -about on the day of independence, as follows:—About eleven o’clock (the -usual time for Indians to make their appearance on any great occasion), -the young men, who were enlisted for ball-play, made their appearance -on the ground with ball-sticks in hand—with no other dress on than the -flap, and attached to a girdle or ornamental sash, a tail, extending -nearly to the ground, made of the choicest arrangement of quills and -feathers, or of the hair of white horses’ tails. After an excited and -warmly contested play of two hours, they adjourned to a place in front -of the agent’s office, where they entertained us for two or three hours -longer, with a continued variety of their most fanciful and picturesque -dances. They gave us the _beggar’s dance_—the _buffalo-dance_—the -_bear-dance_—the _eagle-dance_—and _dance of the braves_. This last -is peculiarly beautiful, and exciting to the feelings in the highest -degree. - -At intervals they stop, and one of them steps into the ring, -and vociferates as loud as possible, with the most significant -gesticulations, the feats of bravery which he has performed during -his life—he boasts of the scalps he has taken—of the enemies he has -vanquished, and at the same time carries his body through all the -motions and gestures, which have been used during these scenes when -they were transacted. At the end of his boasting, all assent to the -truth of his story, and give in their approbation by the guttural -“_waugh!_” and the dance again commences. At the next interval, another -makes his boasts, and another, and another, and so on. - -During this scene, a little trick was played off in the following -manner, which produced much amusement and laughter. A woman of goodly -size, and in woman’s attire, danced into the ring (which seemed to -excite some surprise, as women are never allowed to join in the dance), -and commenced “sawing the air,” and boasting of the astonishing feats -of bravery she had performed—of the incredible number of horses she -had stolen—of the scalps she had taken, &c. &c.; until her feats -surpassed all that had ever been heard of—sufficient to put all the -warriors who had boasted, to the blush. They all gave assent, however, -to what she had said, and apparently _credence_ too; and to reward so -extraordinary a feat of female prowess, they presented to her a kettle, -a cradle, beads, ribbons, &c. After getting her presents, and placing -them safely in the hands of another matron for safe keeping, she -commenced disrobing herself; and, almost instantly divesting herself -of a loose dress, in the presence of the whole company, came out in a -_soldier’s coat_ and _pantaloons_! and laughed at them excessively for -their mistake! She then commenced dancing and making her boasts of her -exploits, assuring them that she was a man, and a great brave. They all -gave unqualified assent to this, acknowledged their error, and made her -other presents of a gun, a horse, of tobacco, and a war-club. After her -boasts were done, and the presents secured as before, she deliberately -threw off the pantaloons and coat, and presented herself at once, and -to their great astonishment and confusion, in a beautiful woman’s -dress. The tact with which she performed these parts, so uniformly -pleased, that it drew forth thundering applause from the Indians, as -well as from the spectators; and the chief stepped up and crowned -her head with a beautiful plume of the eagle’s quill, rising from a -crest of the swan’s down. My wife, who was travelling this part of the -country with me, was a spectator of these scenes, as well as the ladies -and officers of the garrison, whose polite hospitality we are at this -time enjoying. - -Several days after this, the plains of St. Peters and St. Anthony, -rang with the continual sounds of drums and rattles, in time with -the thrilling yells of the dance, until it had doubly ceased to be -novelty. General Patterson, of Philadelphia, and his family arrived -about this time, however, and a dance was got up for their amusement; -and it proved to be one of an unusual kind, and interesting to all. -Considerable preparation was made for the occasion, and the Indians -informed me, that if they could get a couple of dogs that were of no -use about the garrison, they would give us their favourite, the “_dog -dance_.” The two dogs were soon produced by the officers, and in -presence of the whole assemblage of spectators, they butchered them and -placed their two hearts and livers entire and uncooked, on a couple -of crotches about as high as a man’s face (+plate+ 237). These were -then cut into strips, about an inch in width, and left hanging in -this condition, with the blood and smoke upon them. A spirited dance -then ensued; and, in a confused manner, every one sung forth his own -deeds of bravery in ejaculatory gutturals, which were almost deafening; -and they danced up, two at a time to the stakes, and after spitting -several times upon the liver and hearts, catched a piece in their -mouths, bit it off, and swallowed it. This was all done without losing -the step (which was in time to their music), or interrupting the times -of their voices. - -[Illustration: 237] - -Each and every one of them in this wise bit off and swallowed a piece -of the livers, until they were demolished; with the exception of the -two last pieces hanging on the stakes, which a couple of them carried -in their mouths, and communicated to the mouths of the two musicians -who swallowed them. This is one of the most valued dances amongst the -Sioux, though by no means the most beautiful or most pleasing. The -beggar’s dance, the discovery dance, and the eagle dance, are far -more graceful and agreeable. The _dog dance_ is one of _distinction_, -inasmuch as it can only be danced by those who have taken scalps from -the enemy’s heads, and come forward boasting, that they killed their -enemy in battle, and swallowed a piece of his heart in the same manner. - -As the Sioux own and occupy all the country on the West bank of the -river in this vicinity; so do the Chippeways claim all lying East, from -the mouth of the Chippeway River, at the outlet of Lake Pepin, to the -source of the Mississippi; and within the month past, there have been -one thousand or more of them encamped here, on business with the Indian -agent and Sioux, with whom they have recently had some difficulty. -These two hostile foes, who have, time out of mind, been continually -at war, are now encamped here, on different sides of the Fort; and all -difficulties having been arranged by their agent, in whose presence -they have been making their speeches, for these two weeks past, have -been indulging in every sort of their amusements, uniting in their -dances, ball-plays and other games; and feasting and smoking together, -only to raise the war-cry and the tomahawk again, when they get upon -their hunting grounds. - -Major Talliafferro is the Government agent for the Sioux at this place, -and furnishes the only instance probably, of a public servant on these -frontiers, who has performed the duties of his office, strictly and -faithfully, as well as kindly, for fifteen years. The Indians think -much of him, and call him Great Father, to whose advice they listen -with the greatest attention. - -The encampment of the Chippeways, to which I have been a daily visitor, -was built in the manner seen in +plate+ 238; their wigwams made of -birch bark, covering the frame work, which was of slight poles stuck in -the ground, and bent over at the top, so as to give a rooflike shape to -the lodge, best calculated to ward off rain and winds. - -Through this curious scene I was strolling a few days since with my -wife, and I observed the Indian women gathering around her, anxious to -shake hands with her, and shew her their children, of which she took -especial notice; and they literally filled her hands and her arms, with -_muk-kuks_ of maple sugar which they manufacture, and had brought in, -in great quantities for sale. - -After the business and amusements of this great Treaty between the -Chippeways and Sioux were all over, the Chippeways struck their tents -by taking them down and rolling up their bark coverings, which, with -their bark canoes seen in the picture, turned up amongst their wigwams, -were carried to the water’s edge; and all things being packed in, men, -women, dogs, and all, were swiftly propelled by paddles to the Fall of -St. Anthony, where we had repaired to witness their mode of passing the -cataract, by “_making_ (as it is called) _the portage_,” which we found -to be a very curious scene; and was done by running all their canoes -into an eddy below the Fall, and as near as they could get by paddling; -when all were landed, and every thing taken out of the canoes (+plate+ -239), and with them carried by the women, around the Fall, and half a -mile or so above, where the canoes were put into the water again; and -goods and chattels being loaded in, and all hands seated, the paddles -were again put to work, and the light and bounding crafts upon their -voyage. - -The bark canoe of the Chippeways is, perhaps, the most beautiful and -light model of all the water crafts that ever were invented. They -are generally made complete with the rind of one birch tree, and so -ingeniously shaped and sewed together, with roots of the tamarack, -which they call _wat-tap_, that they are water-tight, and ride upon -the water, as light as a cork. They gracefully lean and dodge about, -under the skilful balance of an Indian, or the ugliest squaw; but -like everything wild, are timid and treacherous under the guidance of -white man; and, if he be not an experienced equilibrist, he is sure -to get two or three times soused, in his first endeavours at familiar -acquaintance with them. In +plate+ 240, letter _a_, the reader will see -two specimens of these canoes correctly drawn; where he can contrast -them and their shapes, with the log canoe, letter _b_, (or “dug out,” -as it is often called in the Western regions) of the Sioux, and many -other tribes; which is dug out of a solid log, with great labour, by -these ignorant people, who have but few tools to work with. - -In the same plate, letter _c_, I have also introduced the skin canoes -of the Mandans, (of the Upper Missouri, of whom I have spoken in Volume -I), which are made almost round like a tub, by straining a buffalo’s -skin over a frame of wicker work, made of willow or other boughs. The -woman in paddling these awkward tubs, stands in the bow, and makes -the stroke with the paddle, by reaching it forward in the water and -drawing it to her, by which means she pulls the canoe along with some -considerable speed. These very curious and rudely constructed canoes, -are made in the form of the _Welsh coracle_; and, if I mistake not, -propelled in the same manner, which is a very curious circumstance; -inasmuch as they are found in the heart of the great wilderness -of America, when all the other surrounding tribes construct their -canoes in decidedly different forms, and of different materials. - -[Illustration: 238] - -[Illustration: 239] - -[Illustration: 240] - -[Illustration: 241] - -[Illustration: 242] - -In the same plate, letter _d_, is a pair of Sioux (and in letter _e_, -of Chippeway) _snow shoes_, which are used in the deep snows of the -winter, under the Indians’ feet, to buoy him up as he runs in pursuit -of his game. The hoops or frames of these are made of elastic wood, and -the webbing, of strings of rawhide, which form such a resistance to the -snow, as to carry them over without sinking into it; and enabling them -to come up with their game, which is wallowing through the drifts, and -easily overtaken; as in the buffalo hunt, in +plate+ 109, Volume I. - -Of the portraits of chiefs and others I have painted amongst the -Chippeways at this place, two distinguished young men will be seen -in +plates+ 241, 242. The first by the name of _Ka-bes-kunk_ (he -who travels everywhere), the other, _Ka-be-mub-be_ (he who sits -everywhere), both painted at full length, in full dress, and just as -they were adorned and equipped, even to a quill and a trinket. - -The first of these two young men is, no doubt, one of the most -remarkable of his age to be found in the tribe. Whilst he was standing -for his portrait, which was in one of the officer’s quarters in the -Fort, where there were some ten or fifteen of his enemies the Sioux, -seated on the floor around the room; he told me to take particular -pains in representing eight quills which were arranged in his -head-dress, which he said stood for so many Sioux scalps that he had -taken with his left hand, in which he was grasping his war-club, with -which hand he told me he was in the habit of making all his blows. - -In +plate+ 244, is the portrait of a warrior by the name of _Ot-ta-wa_ -(the otaway), ———— with his pipe in his hand; and in +plate+ 245, -the portrait of a Chippeway woman, _Ju-ah-kis-gaw_, with her child -in its crib or cradle. In a former Letter I gave a minute account -of the Sioux cradle, and here the reader sees the very similar mode -amongst the Chippeways; and as in all instances that can be found, the -_ni-ahkust-ahg_ (or umbilicus) hanging before the child’s face for its -supernatural protector. - -This woman’s dress was mostly made of civilized manufactures, but -curiously decorated and ornamented according to Indian taste. - -Many were the dances given to me on different places, of which I may -make further use and further mention on future occasions: but of which -I shall name but one at present, the _snow-shoe dance_ (+plate+ 243), -which is exceedingly picturesque, being danced with the snow shoes -under the feet, at the falling of the first snow in the beginning of -winter; when they sing a song of thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for -sending them a return of snow, when they can run on their snow shoes in -their valued hunts and easily take the game for their food. - -About this lovely spot I have whiled away a few months with great -pleasure, and having visited all the curiosities, and all the different -villages of Indians in the vicinity, I close my note-book and start in -a few days for Prairie du Chien, which is 300 miles below this; where I -shall have new subjects for my brush and new themes for my pen, when I -may continue my epistles. Adieu. - -[Illustration: 243] - -[Illustration: 244 245] - - - - - LETTER—No. 52. - - CAMP DES MOINES. - - -Soon after the date of my last Letter, written at St. Peters, having -placed my wife on board of the steamer, with a party of ladies, for -Prairie du Chien, I embarked in a light bark canoe, on my homeward -course, with only one companion, Corporal Allen, from the garrison; -a young man of considerable taste, who thought he could relish the -transient scenes of a voyage in company with a painter, having gained -the indulgence of Major Bliss, the commanding officer, with permission -to accompany me. - -With stores laid in for a ten days’ voyage, and armed for any -emergency—with sketch-book and colours prepared, we shoved off and -swiftly glided away with paddles nimbly plied, resolved to see and -relish every thing curious or beautiful that fell in our way. We -lingered along, among the scenes of grandeur which presented themselves -amid the thousand bluffs, and arrived at Prairie du Chien in about -ten days, in good plight, without accident or incident of a thrilling -nature, with the exception of one instance which happened about thirty -miles below St. Peters, and on the first day of our journey. In the -after part of the day, we discovered three lodges of Sioux Indians -encamped on the bank, all hallooing and waving their blankets for us -to come in, to the shore. We had no business with them, and resolved -to keep on our course, when one of them ran into his lodge, and coming -out with his gun in his hand, levelled it at us, and gave us a charge -of buck-shot about our ears. One of them struck in my canoe, passing -through several folds of my cloak, which was folded, and lying just in -front of my knee, and several others struck so near on each side as -to spatter the water into our faces. There was no fun in this, and I -then ran my canoe to the shore as fast as possible—they all ran, men, -women, and children, to the water’s edge, meeting us with yells and -laughter as we landed. As the canoe struck the shore, I rose violently -from my seat, and throwing all the infuriated demon I could into my -face—thrusting my pistols into my belt—a half dozen bullets into my -mouth—and my double-barrelled gun in my hand—I leaped ashore and chased -the lot of them from the beach, throwing myself, by a nearer route, -between them and their wigwams, where I kept them for some time at a -stand, with my barrels presented, and threats (corroborated with looks -which they could not misunderstand) that I would annihilate the whole -of them in a minute. As the gun had been returned to the lodge, and the -man who fired it could not be identified, the rascal’s life was thereby -probably prolonged. We stood for some time in this position, and no -explanation could be made, other than that which could be read from the -lip and the brow, a language which is the same, and read alike, among -all nations. I slipped my sketch-book and pencil into my hand, and -under the muzzle of my gun, each fellow stood for his likeness, which I -made them understand, by signs, were to be sent to “Muzzabucksa” (iron -cutter), the name they gave to Major Talliafferro, their agent at St. -Peters. - -This threat, and the continued vociferation of the corporal from the -canoe, that I was a “Grande Capitaine,” seemed considerably to alarm -them. I at length gradually drew myself off, but with a lingering eye -upon the sneaking rascals, who stood in sullen silence, with one eye -upon me, and the other upon the corporal; who I found had held them at -bay from the bow of his canoe, with his musket-levelled upon them—his -bayonet fixed—his cartouch box slung, with one eye in full blaze over -the barrel, and the other drawn down within two parts of an inch of the -upper corner of his mouth. At my approach, his muscles were gradually -(but somewhat reluctantly) relaxed. We seated ourselves, and quietly -dipped our paddles again on our way. - -Some allowance must be made for this outrage, and many others that -could be named, that have taken place amongst that part of the Sioux -nation; they have been for many years past made drunkards, by the -solicitations of white men, and then abused, and their families also; -for which, when they are drunk (as in the present instance), they -are often ready, and disposed to retaliate and to return insult for -injuries. - -We went on peaceably and pleasantly during the rest of our voyage, -having ducks, deer, and bass for our game and our food; our bed was -generally on the grass at the foot of some towering bluff, where, in -the melancholy stillness of night, we were lulled to sleep by the -liquid notes of the whip-poor-will; and after his warbling ceased, -roused by the mournful complaints of the starving wolf, or _surprised_ -by the startling interrogation, “who! who! who!” by the winged monarch -of the dark. - -There is a something that fills and feeds the mind of an enthusiastic -man, when he is thrown upon natural resources, amidst the rude -untouched scenes of nature, which cannot be described; and I leave the -world to imagine the feelings of pleasure with which I found myself -again out of the din of artful life, among scenes of grandeur worthy -the whole soul’s devotion, and admiration. - -When the morning’s dew was shaken off, our coffee enjoyed—our light -bark again launched upon the water, and the chill of the morning -banished by the quick stroke of the paddle, and the busy chaunt of -the corporal’s boat-song, our ears and our eyes were open to the rude -scenes of romance that were about us—our light boat ran to every -ledge—dodged into every slough or “_cut-off_” to be seen—every mineral -was examined—every cave explored—and almost every bluff of grandeur -ascended to the top. These towering edifices of nature, which will -stand the admiration of thousands and tens of thousands, unchanged -and unchangeable, though grand and majestic to the eye of the passing -traveller, will be found to inspire new ideas of magnitude when -attempted to be travelled to the top. From the tops of many of them I -have sketched for the information of the world, and for the benefit -of those who travel much, I would recommend a trip to the Summit of -“Pike’s Tent” (the highest bluff on the river), 100 miles above Prairie -du Chien; to the top also of “La Montaigne qui tromps a l’eau”—the -summit of Bad Axe Mountain—and a look over Lake Pepin’s turretted -shores from the top of the bluff opposite to the “Lover’s Leap,” being -the highest on the lake, and the point from which the greater part of -its shores can be seen. - -[Illustration: 248] - -[Illustration: 249] - -Along the shores of this beautiful lake we lingered for several days, -and our canoe was hauled a hundred times upon the pebbly beach, where -we spent hours and days, robbing it of its precious gems, which are -thrown up by the waves. We found many rich agates, carnelians, jaspers, -and porphyrys. The agates are many of them peculiarly beautiful, most -of them water-waved—their colours brilliant and beautifully striated. -“Point aux Sables” has been considered the most productive part of -the lake for these gems; but owing to the frequent landings of the -steam-boats and other craft on that point, the best specimens of them -have been picked up; and the traveller will now be best remunerated for -his trouble, by tracing the shore around into some of its coves, or on -some of its points less frequented by the footsteps of man. - -The _Lover’s Leap_ (+plate+ 248), is a bold and projecting rock, of -six or seven hundred feet elevation on the East side of the lake, from -the summit of which, it is said, a beautiful Indian girl, the daughter -of a chief, threw herself off in presence of her tribe, some fifty -years ago, and dashed herself to pieces, to avoid being married to a -man whom her father had decided to be her husband, and whom she would -not marry. On our way, after we had left the beautiful shores of Lake -Pepin, we passed the magnificent bluff called “_Pike’s Tent_” (+plate+ -249), and undoubtedly, the highest eminence on the river, running up in -the form of a tent; from which circumstance, and that of having first -been ascended by Lieutenant Pike, it has taken the name of Pike’s Tent, -which it will, doubtless, for ever retain. - -The corporal and I run our little craft to the base of this stupendous -pyramid, and spent half a day about its sides and its pinnacle, -admiring the lovely and almost boundless landscape that lies beneath it. - -To the top of this grass-covered mound I would advise every traveller -in the country, who has the leisure to do it, and sinew enough in his -leg, to stroll awhile, and enjoy what it may be difficult for him to -see elsewhere. - -“_Cap au l’ail_” (Garlic Cape, +plate+ 250), about twenty miles above -Prairie du Chien is another beautiful scene—and the “Cornice Rocks” -(+plate+ 251), on the West bank, where my little bark rested two days, -till the corporal and I had taken bass from every nook and eddy about -them, where our hooks could be dipped. To the lover of fine fish, and -fine sport in fishing, I would recommend an encampment for a few days -on this picturesque ledge, where his appetite and his passion will be -soon gratified. - -Besides these picturesque scenes, I made drawings also of all the -Indian villages on the way, and of many other interesting points, which -are curious in my Collection, but too numerous to introduce in this -place. - -In the midst, or half-way of Lake Pepin, which is an expansion of the -river of four or five miles in width, and twenty-five miles in length, -the corporal and I hauled our canoe out upon the beach of Point aux -Sables, where we spent a couple of days, feasting on plums and fine -fish and wild fowl, and filling our pockets with agates and carnelians -we were picking up along the pebbly beach; and at last, started on -our way for the outlet of the lake, with a fair North West wind, -which wafted us along in a delightful manner, as I sat in the stern -and steered, while the corporal was “catching the breeze” in a large -umbrella, which he spread open and held in the bow. We went merrily -and exultingly on in this manner, until at length the wind increased -to anything but a gale; and the waves were foaming white, and dashing -on the shores where we could not land without our frail bark being -broken to pieces. We soon became alarmed, and saw that our only safety -was in keeping on the course that we were running at a rapid rate, and -that with our sail full set, to brace up and steady our boat on the -waves, while we kept within swimming distance of the shore, resolved -to run into the first cove, or around the first point we could find -for our protection. We kept at an equal distance from the shore—and in -this most critical condition, the wind drove us ten or fifteen miles, -without a landing-place, till we exultingly steered into the mouth of -the Chippeway river, at the outlet of the lake, where we soon found -quiet and safety; but found our canoe in a sinking condition, being -half full of water, and having three of the five of her beams or braces -broken out, with which serious disasters, a few rods more of the fuss -and confusion would have sent us to the bottom. We here laid by part -of a day, and having repaired our disasters, wended our way again -pleasantly and successfully on. - -At Prairie du Chien, which is near the mouth of the Ouisconsin River, -and 600 miles above St. Louis, where we safely landed my canoe, I -found my wife enjoying the hospitality of Mrs. Judge Lockwood, who had -been a schoolmate of mine in our childhood, and is now residing with -her interesting family in that place. Under her hospitable roof we -spent a few weeks with great satisfaction, after which my wife took -steamer for Dubuque, and I took to my little bark canoe alone (having -taken leave of the corporal), which I paddled to this place, quite -leisurely—cooking my own meat, and having my own fun as I passed along. - -Prairie du Chien (+plate+ 253) has been one of the earliest and -principal trading posts of the Fur Company, and they now have a -large establishment at that place; but doing far less business than -formerly, owing to the great mortality of the Indians in its vicinity, -and the destruction of the game, which has almost entirely disappeared -in these regions. The prairie is a beautiful elevation above the -river, of several miles in length, and a mile or so in width, with a -most picturesque range of grassy bluffs encompassing it in the rear. -The Government have erected there a substantial Fort, in which are -generally stationed three or four companies of men, for the purpose (as -at the Fall of St. Anthony) of keeping the peace amongst the hostile -tribes, and also of protecting the frontier inhabitants from the -attacks of the excited savages. There are on the prairie some forty -or fifty families, mostly French, and some half-breeds, whose lives -have been chiefly spent in the arduous and hazardous occupations of -trappers, and traders, and voyageurs; which has well qualified them for -the modes of dealing with Indians, where they have settled down and -stand ready to compete with one another for their shares of annuities, -&c. which are dealt out to the different tribes who concentrate at that -place, and are easily drawn from the poor Indians’ hands by whiskey and -useless gewgaws. - -[Illustration: 250] - -[Illustration: 251] - -[Illustration: 253] - -The consequence of this system is, that there is about that place, -almost one continual scene of wretchedness, and drunkenness, and -disease amongst the Indians, who come there to trade and to receive -their annuities, that disgusts and sickens the heart of every stranger -that extends his travels to it. - -When I was there, Wa-be-sha’s band of the Sioux came there, and -remained several weeks to get their annuities, which, when they -received them, fell (as they always will do), far short of paying off -the account, which the Traders take good care to have standing against -them for goods furnished them on a year’s credit. However, whether -they pay off or not, they can always get whiskey enough for a grand -carouse and a brawl, which lasts for a week or two, and almost sure to -terminate the lives of some of their numbers. - -At the end of one of these a few days since, after the men had enjoyed -their surfeit of whiskey, and wanted a little more amusement, and felt -disposed to indulge the weaker sex in a little recreation also; it was -announced amongst them, and through the village, that the women were -going to have a ball-play! - -For this purpose the men, in their very liberal trades they were making -and filling their canoes with goods delivered to them on a year’s -credit, laid out a great quantity of ribbons and calicoes, with other -presents well adapted to the wants and desires of the women; which were -hung on a pole resting on crotches, and guarded by an old man, who was -to be judge and umpire of the play which was to take place amongst -the women, who were divided into two equal parties, and were to play -a desperate game of ball, for the valuable stakes that were hanging -before them (+plate+ 252). - -In the ball-play of the women, they have two balls attached to the ends -of a string, about a foot and a half long; and each woman has a short -stick in each hand, on which she catches the string with the two balls, -and throws them, endeavouring to force them over the goal of her own -party. The men are more than half drunk, when they feel liberal enough -to indulge the women in such an amusement; and take infinite pleasure -in rolling about on the ground and laughing to excess, whilst the women -are tumbling about in all attitudes, and scuffling for the ball. The -game of “_hunt the slipper_,” even, loses its zest after witnessing one -of these, which sometimes last for hours together; and often exhibits -the hottest contest for the balls, exactly over the heads of the men; -who, half from whiskey, and half from inclination, are laying in groups -and flat upon the ground. - -Prairie du Chien is the concentrating place of the Winnebagoes and -Menomonies, who inhabit the waters of the Ouisconsin and Fox Rivers, -and the chief part of the country lying East of the Mississippi, and -West of Green Bay. - -The _Winnebagoes_ are the remnant of a once powerful and warlike tribe, -but are now left in a country where they have neither beasts or men -to war with; and are in a most miserable and impoverished condition. -The numbers of this tribe do not exceed four thousand; and the most of -them have sold even their guns and ammunition for whiskey. Like the -Sioux and Menomonies that come in to this post, they have several times -suffered severely with the small-pox, which has in fact destroyed the -greater proportion of them. - -In +plate+ 254, will be seen the portrait of an old chief, who died -a few years since; and who was for many years the head chief of -the tribe, by the name of _Naw-kaw_ (wood). This man has been much -distinguished in his time, for his eloquence; and he desired me to -paint him in the attitude of an orator, addressing his people. - -+Plate+ 255, is a distinguished man of the Winnebago tribe, by the name -of _Wah-chee-hahs-ka_ (the man who puts all out of doors), commonly -called the “boxer.” The largest man of the tribe, with rattlesnakes’ -skins on his arms, and his war-club in his hand.[20] - -In +plate+ 256 is seen a warrior, _Kaw-kaw-ne-choo-a_; and in +plate+ -257 another, Wa-kon-zee-kaw (the snake), both at full length; and fair -specimens of the tribe, who are generally a rather short and thick-set, -square shouldered set of men, of great strength, and of decided -character as brave and desperate in war. - -Besides the chief and warriors above-named, I painted the portraits of -_Won-de-tow-a_ (the wonder), _Wa-kon-chash-kaw_ (he who comes on the -thunder), _Nau-naw-pay-ee_ (the soldier), _Span-e-o-nee-kaw_ -(the Spaniard), _Hoo-wan-ee-kaw_ (the little elk), _No-ah-choo-she-kaw_ -(he who breaks the bushes), and _Naugh-haigh-ke-kaw_ (he who moistens -the wood), all distinguished men of the tribe; and all at full length, -as they will be seen standing in my Collection. - -[Illustration: 252] - -[Illustration: 255] - -[Illustration: 254] - -[Illustration: 256] - -[Illustration: 257] - -[Illustration: 258 259] - -[Illustration: 260 261] - - - +The MENOMONIES,+ - -Like the Winnebagoes, are the remnant of a much more numerous and -independent tribe, but have been reduced and enervated by the use of -whiskey and the ravages of the small-pox, and number at this time, -something like three thousand, living chiefly on the banks of Fox -River, and the Western shore of Green Bay. They visit Prairie du Chien, -where their annuities are paid them; and they indulge in the _bane_, -like the tribes that I have mentioned. - -Of this tribe, I have painted quite a number of their leading -characters, and at the head of them all, _Mah-kee-me-teuv_ (the grizzly -bear, +plate+ 258), with a handsome pipe in his hand; and by the side -of him his wife _Me-cheet-e-neuh_ (the wounded bear’s shoulder, +plate+ -259). Both of these have died since their portraits were painted. This -dignified chief led a delegation of fifteen of his people to Washington -City, some years since, and there commanded great respect for his -eloquence, and dignity of deportment. - -In +plate+ 260 is the portrait of _Chee-me-na-na-quet_ (the great -cloud), son of the chief—an ill-natured and insolent fellow who has -since been killed for some of his murderous deeds. +Plate+ 261, is the -portrait of a fine boy, whose name is _Tcha-kauks-o-ko-maugh_ (the -great chief). This tribe living out of the reach of buffaloes, cover -themselves with blankets, instead of robes, and wear a profusion of -beads and wampum, and other trinkets. - -In +plate+ 262, is_Coo-coo-coo_ (the owl), a very aged and emaciated -chief, whom I painted at Green Bay, in Fort Howard. He had been a -distinguished man, but now in his dotage, being more than 100 years -old—and a great pet of the surgeon and officers of the post. - -In +plate+ 263, are two Menominee youths at full length, in beautiful -dresses, whose names I did not get—one with his war-club in his hand, -and the other blowing on his “courting flute,” which I have before -described. - -In addition to these I have painted of this tribe, and placed in -my Collection, the portraits of _Ko-man-i-kin-o-shaw_ (the little -whale); _Sha-wa-no_ (the South); _Mash-kee-wet_ (the thought); -_Pah-shee-nau-shaw_ (————); _Au-nah-quet-o-hau-pay-o_ (the one sitting -in the clouds); _Auh-ka-na-paw-wah_ (earth standing); _Ko-man-ni-kin_ -(the big wave); _O-ho-pa-sha_ (the small whoop); _Au-wah-shew-kew_ (the -female bear); and _Chesh-ko-tong_ (he who sings the war-song). - -It will be seen by the reader, from the above facts, that I have been -laying up much curious and valuable record of people and customs in -these regions; and it will be seen at the same time, from the brief -manner in which I have treated of these semi-civilized tribes, which -every body can see, and thousands have seen, that my enthusiasm, as -I have before explained, has led me more into minuteness and detail -amongst those tribes which are living in their unchanged native modes, -whose customs I have been ambitious to preserve for ages to come, -before the changes that civilized acquaintance will soon work upon them. - -The materials which I am daily gathering, however, are interesting; -and I may on a future occasion use them—but in an epistle of this -kind, there is not room for the incidents of a long voyage, or for a -minute description of the country and the people in it; so, what I -have said must suffice for the present. I lingered along the shores -of this magnificent river then, in my fragile bark, to Prairie du -Chien—Dubuque—Galena, to Rock Island, and lastly to this place. - -During such a Tour between the almost endless banks, carpeted with -green, with one of the richest countries in the world, extending back -in every direction, the mind of a contemplative man is continually -building for posterity splendid seats, cities, towers and villas, which -a few years of rolling time will bring about, with new institutions, -new states, and almost empires; for it would seem that this vast region -of rich soil and green fields, was almost enough for a world of itself. - -I hauled my canoe out of the water at Dubuque, where I joined my wife -again in the society of kind and hospitable friends, and found myself -amply repaid for a couple of weeks’ time spent in the examination -of the extensive lead mines; walking and creeping through caverns, -some eighty or one hundred feet below the earth’s surface, decked in -nature’s pure livery of stalactites and spar—with walls, and sometimes -ceilings, of glistening massive lead. And I hold yet (and ever shall) -in my mind, without loss of a fraction of feature or expression, the -image of one of my companions, and the scene that at one time was -about him. His name is Jeffries. We were in “Lockwood’s Cave,” my wife -and another lady were behind, and he advancing before me; _his_ ribs, -more elastic, than mine, gave him entrance through a crevice, into a -chamber yet unexplored; he dared the pool, for there was one of icy -water, and translucent as the air itself. We stood luckless spectators, -to gaze and envy, while he advanced. The lighted flambeau in his hand -brought the splendid furniture of this tesselated palace into view; -the surface of the jostled pool laved his sides as he advanced, and -the rich stalagmites that grew up from the bottom reflected a golden -light through the water, while the walls and ceiling were hung with -stalactites which glittered like diamonds. - -In this wise he stood in silent gaze, in awe and admiration of the -hidden works of Nature; his figure, as high as the surface of the -water, was magnified into a giant—and his head and shoulders not unfit -for a cyclop. In fact, he was a perfect figure of Vulcan. The water in -which he stood was a lake of liquid fire—he held a huge hammer in -his right hand, and a flaming thunderbolt in his left, which he had -just forged for Jupiter. There was but one thing wanting, it was the -“sound of the hammer!” which was soon given in peals upon the beautiful -pendents of stalactite and spar, which sent back and through the -cavern, the hollow tones of thunder. - -[Illustration: 262] - -[Illustration: 263] - -A visit of a few days to Dubuque will be worth the while of every -traveller; and for the speculator and man of enterprize, it affords the -finest field now open in our country. It is a small town of 200 houses, -built entirely within the last two years, on one of the most delightful -sites on the river, and in the heart of the richest and most productive -parts of the mining region; having this advantage over most other -mining countries, that immediately over the richest (and in fact all) -of the lead mines; the land on the surface produces the finest corn, -and all other vegetables that may be put into it. This is certainly the -richest section of country on the Continent, and those who live a few -years to witness the result, will be ready to sanction my assertion, -that it is to be the _mint of our country_. - -From Dubuque, I descended the river on a steamer, with my bark canoe -laid on its deck, and my wife was my companion, to Camp Des Moines, -from whence I am now writing. - -After arriving at this place, which is the wintering post of Colonel -Kearney, with his three companies of dragoons, I seated my wife and two -gentlemen of my intimate acquaintance, in my bark canoe, and paddled -them through the Des Moine’s Rapids, a distance of fourteen miles, -which we performed in a very short time; and at the foot of the Rapids, -placed my wife on the steamer for St. Louis, in company with friends, -when I had some weeks to return on my track, and revert back again to -the wild and romantic life that I occasionally love to lead. I returned -to Camp Des Moines, and in a few days joined General Street, the Indian -Agent, in a Tour to Ke-o-kuck’s village of Sacs and Foxes. - -Colonel Kearney gave us a corporal’s command of eight men, with -horses, &c. for the journey; and we reached the village in two days’ -travel, about sixty miles up the Des Moines. The whole country that we -passed over was like a garden, wanting only cultivation, being mostly -prairie, and we found their village beautifully situated on a large -prairie, on the bank of the Des Moines River. They seemed to be well -supplied with the necessaries of life, and with some of its luxuries. -I found Ke-o-kuck to be a chief of fine and portly figure, with a good -countenance, and great dignity and grace in his manners. - -General Street had some documents from Washington, to read to him, -which he and his chiefs listened to with great patience; after which -he placed before us good brandy and good wine, and invited us to -drink, and to lodge with him; he then called up five of his _runners_ -or _criers_, communicated to them in a low, but emphatic tone, the -substance of the talk from the agent, and of the letters read to him, -and they started at full gallop— one of them proclaiming it through -his village, and the others sent express to the other villages, -comprising the whole nation. Ke-o-kuck came in with us, with about -twenty of his principal men—he brought in all his costly wardrobe, that -I might select for his portrait such as suited me best; but at once -named (of his own accord) the one that was purely Indian. In that he -paraded for several days, and in it I painted him at full length. He is -a man of a great deal of pride, and makes truly a splendid appearance -on his black horse. He owns the finest horse in the country, and is -excessively vain of his appearance when mounted, and arrayed, himself -and horse, in all their gear and trappings. He expressed a wish to see -himself represented on horseback, and I painted him in that light. He -rode and nettled his prancing steed in front of my door, until its -sides were in a gore of blood. I succeeded to _his_ satisfaction, and -his vanity is increased, no doubt, by seeing himself immortalized -in that way. After finishing him, I painted his favourite wife (the -favoured one of seven), his favourite boy, and eight or ten of his -principal men and women; after which, he and all his men shook hands -with me, wishing me well, and leaving, as tokens of regard, the most -valued article of his dress, and a beautiful string of wampum, which he -took from his wife’s neck. - -They then departed for their village in good spirits, to prepare for -their _fall hunt_. - -Of this interesting interview and its incidents, and of these people, -I shall soon give the reader a further account, and therefore close my -note-book for the present. Adieu. - - [20] This man died of the small-pox the next summer after this - portrait was painted. Whilst the small-pox was raging so bad at - the Prairie, he took the disease, and in a rage plunged into the - river, and swam across to the island where he dragged his body out - upon the beach, and there died, and his bones were picked by dogs, - without any friend to give him burial. - - - - - LETTER—No. 53. - - SAINT LOUIS. - - -It will be seen by the heading of this Letter that I am back again to -“head-quarters,” where I have joined my wife, and being seated down by -a comfortable fire, am to take a little retrospect of my rambles, from -the time of my last epistle. - -The return to the society of old friends again, has been delightful, -and amongst those whom I more than esteem, I have met my kind and -faithful friend Joe Chadwick, whom I have often mentioned, as my -companion in distress whilst on that disastrous campaign amongst the -Camanchees. Joe and I have taken great pleasure in talking over the -many curious scenes we have passed together, many of which are as yet -unknown to others than ourselves. We had been separated for nearly two -years, and during that time I had passed many curious scenes worthy -of Joe’s knowing, and while he sat down in the chair for a portrait I -painted of him to send to his mother, on leaving the States, to take an -appointment from Governor Houston in the Texan army; I related to him -one or two of my recent _incidents_, which were as follow, and pleased -Joe exceedingly;— - -“After I had paddled my bark canoe through the rapids, with my wife and -others in it, as I mentioned, and had put them on board a steamer for -St. Louis, I dragged my canoe up the east shore of the rapids, with a -line, for a distance of four miles, when I stopped and spent half of -the day in collecting some very interesting minerals, which I had in -the bottom of my canoe, and ready to get on the first steamer passing -up, to take me again to Camp Des Moines, at the head of the rapids. - -“I was sitting on a wild and wooded shore, and waiting, when I at -length discovered a steamer several miles below me, advancing through -the rapids, and in the interim I set too and cleaned my fowling piece -and a noble pair of pistols, which I had carried in a belt at my side, -through my buffalo and other sports of the West, and having put them -in fine order and deposited them in the bottom of the canoe before me, -and taken my paddle in hand, with which my long practice had given -me unlimited confidence, I put off from the shore to the middle of -the river, which was there a mile and a halt in width, to meet the -steamer, which was stemming the opposing torrent, and slowly moving -up the rapids. I made my signal as I neared the steamer, and desired -my old friend Captain Rogers, not to stop his engine; feeling full -confidence that I could, with an _Indian touch_ of the paddle, toss -my little bark around, and gently grapple to the side of the steamer, -which was loaded down, with her gunnels near to the water’s edge. Oh, -that my skill had been equal to my imagination, or that I could have -had at that moment, the balance and the skill of an Indian _woman_, -for the sake of my little craft and what was in it! I had _brought it -about_, with a master hand, however, but the waves of the rapids and -the foaming of the waters by her sides were too much for my peaceable -adhesion, and at the moment of wheeling, to part company with her, a -line, with a sort of “laso throw,” came from an awkward hand on the -deck, and falling over my shoulder and around the end of my canoe, with -a simultaneous “haul” to it, sent me down head foremost to the bottom -of the river; where I was tumbling along with the rapid current over -the huge rocks on the bottom, whilst my gun and pistols, which were -emptied from my capsised boat, were taking their permanent position -amongst the rocks; and my trunk, containing my notes of travel for -several years, and many other valuable things, was floating off upon -the surface. If I had drowned, my death would have been witnessed by -at least an hundred ladies and gentlemen who were looking on, but I -_did not_.—I soon took a peep, by the side of my trunk &c., above the -water, and for the first time in my life was “collared,” and that by -my friend Captain Rogers, who undoubtedly saved me from making further -explorations on the river bottom, by pulling me into the boat, to the -amusement of all on deck, many of whom were my old acquaintance, and -not knowing the preliminaries, were as much astounded at my sudden -appearance, as if I had been disgorged from a whale’s belly. A small -boat was sent off for my trunk, which was picked up about half a mile -below and brought on board full of water, and consequently, clothes, -and sketch-books and everything else entirely wet through. My canoe -was brought on board, which was several degrees dearer to me now than -it had been for its long and faithful service; but my gun and pistols -are there yet, and at the service of the lucky one who may find them. -I remained on board for several miles, till we were passing a wild and -romantic rocky shore, on which the sun was shining warm, and I launched -my little boat into the water, with my trunk in it and put off to the -shore, where I soon had every paper and a hundred other things spread -in the sun, and at night in good order for my camp, which was at the -mouth of a quiet little brook, where I caught some fine bass and fared -well, till a couple of hours paddling the next morning brought me back -to Camp Des Moines.” - -Here my friend Joe laughed excessively, but said not a word, as I -kept on painting—and told him also, that a few days after this, I -put my little canoe on the deck of a steamer ascending the river, -and landed at Rock Island, ninety miles above, on some business with -General Street, the Indian Agent—after which I “put off” in my little -bark, descending the river alone, to Camp Des Moines, with a fine -double-barrelled fowling-piece, which I had purchased at the garrison, -lying in the canoe before me as the means of procuring wild fowl, and -other food on my passage. “Egad!” said Joe, “how I should like to have -been with you!” “Sit still,” said I, “or I shall lose your likeness.” -So Joe kept his position, and I proceeded. - -“I left Rock Island about eleven o’clock in the morning, and at -half-past three in a pleasant afternoon, in the cool month of October, -run my canoe to the shore of _Mas-co-tin_ Island, where I stepped out -upon its beautiful pebbly beach, with my paddle in my hand, having -drawn the bow of my canoe, as usual, on to the beach, so as to hold -it in its place. This beautiful island, so called from a band of the -Illinois Indians of that name, who once dwelt upon it, is twenty-five -or thirty miles in length, without habitation on or in sight of it, -and the whole way one extended and lovely prairie; with high banks -fronting the river, and extending back a great way, covered with a -high and luxuriant growth of grass. To the top of this bank I went -with my paddle in my hand, quite innocently, just to range my eye over -its surface, and to see what might be seen; when, in a minute or two, -I turned towards the river, and, to my almost annihilating surprise -and vexation, I saw my little canoe some twenty or thirty rods from -the shore, and some distance below me, with its head aiming across -the river, and steadily gliding along in that direction, where the -wind was roguishly wafting it! What little swearing I had learned in -the whole of my dealings with the _civilized_ world, seemed then to -concentrate in two or three involuntary exclamations, which exploded -as I was running down the beach, and throwing off my garments one -after the other, till I was denuded—and dashing through the deep -and boiling current in pursuit of it, I swam some thirty rods in a -desperate rage, resolving that this _must be_ my remedy, as there -was no other mode; but at last found, to my great mortification and -_alarm_, that the canoe, having got so far from the shore, was more -in the wind, and travelling at a speed quite equal to my own; so that -the only safe alternative was to turn and make for the shore with -all possible despatch. This I did—and had but just strength to bring -me where my feet could reach the bottom, and I waded out with the -appalling conviction, that if I had swam one rod farther into the -stream, my strength would never have brought me to the shore; for it -was in the fall of the year, and the water so cold as completely to -have benumbed me, and paralyzed my limbs. I hastened to pick up my -clothes, which were dropped at intervals as I had run on the beach, and -having adjusted them on my shivering limbs, I stepped to the top of the -bank, and took a deliberate view of my little canoe, which was steadily -making its way to the other shore—with my gun, with my provisions and -fire apparatus, and sleeping apparel, all snugly packed in it. - -“The river at that place is near a mile wide; and I watched the -mischievous thing till it ran quite into a bunch of willows on the -opposite shore, and out of sight. I walked the shore awhile, alone and -solitary as a Zealand penguin, when I at last sat down, and in one -minute passed the following resolves from premises that were before -me, and too imperative to be evaded or unappreciated ‘I am here on a -desolate island, with nothing to eat, and destitute of the means of -procuring anything; and if I pass the night, or half a dozen of them -here, I shall have neither fire or clothes to make me comfortable; -and nothing short of _having my canoe_ will answer me at all.’ For -this, the only alternative struck me, and I soon commenced upon it. An -occasional log or limb of drift wood was seen along the beach and under -the bank, and these I commenced bringing together from all quarters, -and some I had to lug half a mile or more, to form a raft to float -me up and carry me across the river. As there was a great scarcity -of materials, and I had no hatchet to cut anything; I had to use my -scanty materials of all lengths and of all sizes and all shapes, and -at length ventured upon the motley mass, with paddle in hand, and -carefully shoved it off from the shore, finding it just sufficient to -float me up. I took a seat in its centre on a bunch of barks which I -had placed for a seat, and which, when I started, kept me a few inches -above the water, and consequently dry, whilst my feet were resting on -the raft, which in most parts was sunk a little below the surface. The -only alternative was _to go_, for there was no more timber to be found; -so I balanced myself in the middle, and by reaching forward with my -paddle, to a little space between the timbers of my raft, I had a small -place to dip it, and the only one, in which I could make but a feeble -stroke—propelling me at a very slow rate _across_, as I was floating -rapidly _down_ the current. I sat still and worked patiently, however, -content with the little gain; and at last reached the opposite shore -about three miles below the place of my embarkation; having passed -close by several huge snags, which I was lucky enough to escape, -without the power of having cleared them except by kind accident. - -“My craft was ‘unseaworthy’ when I started, and when I had got to the -middle of the river, owing to the rotten wood, with which a great part -of it was made, and which had now become saturated with water, it had -sunk entirely under the surface, letting me down nearly to the waist, -in the water. In this critical way I moved slowly along, keeping the -sticks together under me; and at last, when I reached the shore, some -of the long and awkward limbs projecting from my raft, having reached -it before me, and being suddenly resisted by the bank, gave the instant -signal for its dissolution, and my sudden debarkation, when I gave one -grand leap in the _direction_ of the bank, yet some yards short of it, -and into the water, from head to foot; but soon crawled out, and wended -my way a mile or two up the shore, where I found my canoe snugly and -safely moored in the willows, where I stepped into it, and paddled back -to the island, and to the same spot where my misfortunes commenced, to -enjoy the pleasure of exultations, which were to flow from contrasting -my present with my former situation. - -“Thus, the Island of Mas-co-tin soon lost its horrors, and I strolled -two days and encamped two nights upon its silent shores—with prairie -hens and wild fowl in abundance for my meals. From this lovely ground, -which shews the peaceful graves of hundreds of red men, who have valued -it before me, I paddled off in my light bark, and said, as I looked -back, ‘Sleep there in peace, ye brave fellows! until the sacrilegious -hands of white man, and the unsympathizing ploughshare shall turn thy -bones from their quiet and beautiful resting-place!’ - -“Two or three days of strolling, brought me again to the Camp Des -Moines, and from thence, with my favourite little bark canoe, placed -upon the deck of the steamer, I embarked for St. Louis, where I arrived -in good order, and soon found the way to the comfortable quarters from -whence I am now writing.” - -When I finished telling this story to Joe, his portrait was done, and I -rejoiced to find that I had given to it all the fire and all the _game -look_ that had become so familiar and pleasing to me in our numerous -rambles in the far distant wilds of our former campaigns.[21] - -When I had landed from the steamer Warrior, at the wharf, I left all -other considerations to hasten and report myself to my dear wife, -leaving my little canoe on deck and in the especial charge of the -Captain, till I should return for it in the afternoon, and remove it -to safe storage with my other Indian articles, to form an interesting -part of my Museum. On my return to the steamer it was “_missing_,” and -like one that I have named on a former occasion, by some _medicine_ -operation, for ever severed from my sight, though not from my -recollections, where it will long remain, and also in a likeness which -I made of it (+plate+ 240, _a_), just after the trick it played me on -the shore of the Mascotin Island. - -After I had finished the likeness of my friend Joe, and had told him -the two stories, I sat down and wrote thus in my note-book, and now -copy it into my Letter:— - -The West—not the “Far West,” for that is a phantom, travelling on its -tireless wing: but the _West_, the simple West—the vast and vacant -wilds which lie between the trodden haunts of present savage and -civil life—the great and almost boundless garden-spot of earth! This -is the theme at present. The “antres vast and deserts idle,” where -the tomahawk sleeps with the bones of the savage, as yet untouched by -the trespassing ploughshare—the pictured land of silence, which, in -its melancholy alternately echoes backward and forward the plaintive -yells of the vanished red men, and the busy chaunts of the approaching -pioneers. I speak of the boundless plains of beauty, and Nature’s -richest livery, where the waters of the “great deep” parted in peace, -and gracefully passed off without leaving deformity behind them. Over -whose green, enamelled fields, as boundless and free as the ocean’s -wave, Nature’s proudest, noblest men have pranced on their wild horses, -and extended, through a series of ages, their long arms in orisons of -praise and gratitude to the Great Spirit in the sun, for the freedom -and happiness of their existence.—The land that was beautiful and -famed, but had no chronicler to tell—where, while “civilized” was yet -in embryo, dwelt the valiant and the brave, whose deeds of chivalry and -honour have passed away like themselves, unembalmed and untold—where -the plumed war-horse has pranced in time with the shrill sounding -war-cry, and the eagle calumet as oft sent solemn and mutual pledges in -fumes to the skies. I speak of the _neutral ground_ (for such it may -be called), where the smoke of the wigwam is no longer seen, but the -bleaching bones of the buffaloes, and the graves of the savage, tell -the story of times and days that are passed—the land of stillness, on -which the red man now occasionally re-treads in sullen contemplation, -amid the graves of his fathers, and over which civilized man advances, -filled with joy and gladness. - -Such is the great valley of the Mississippi and Missouri, over almost -every part of which I have extended my travels, and of which and of its -future wealth and improvements, I have had sublime contemplations. - -I have viewed man in the artless and innocent simplicity of nature, in -the full enjoyment of the luxuries which God had bestowed upon him. I -have seen him happier than kings or princes _can_ be; with his pipe -and little ones about him. I have seen him shrinking from civilized -approach, which came _with all its vices_, like the _dead of night_, -upon him: I have seen raised, too, in that _darkness, religion’s -torch_, and seen him gaze and then retreat like the frightened deer, -that are blinded by the light; I have seen him shrinking from the -soil and haunts of his boyhood, bursting the strongest ties which -bound him to the earth, and its pleasures; I have seen him set fire -to his wigwam, and smooth over the graves of his fathers; I have seen -him (’tis the only thing that will bring them) with tears of grief -sliding over his cheeks, clap his hand in silence over his mouth, -and take the _last look_ over his fair hunting grounds, and turn his -face in sadness to the setting sun. All this I have seen performed -in Nature’s silent dignity and grace, which forsook him not in the -last extremity of misfortune and despair; and I have seen as often, -the approach of the bustling, busy, talking, whistling, hopping, -elated and exulting white man, with the first dip of the ploughshare, -making sacrilegious trespass on the bones of the valiant dead. I -have seen the _skull_, the _pipe_, and the _tomahawk_ rise from the -ground together, in interrogations which the sophistry of the world -can never answer. I have seen thus, in all its forms and features, -the grand and irresistible march of civilization. I have seen this -splendid Juggernaut rolling on, and beheld its sweeping desolation; -and held converse with the happy thousands, living, as yet, beyond -its influence, who have not been crushed, nor yet have dreamed of its -approach. - -I have stood amidst these unsophisticated people, and contemplated with -feelings of deepest regret, the certain approach of this overwhelming -system, which will inevitably march on and prosper, until reluctant -tears shall have watered every rod of this fair land; and from the -towering cliffs of the Rocky Mountains, the luckless savage will turn -back his swollen eye, over the blue and illimitable hunting grounds -from whence he has fled, and there contemplate, like Caius Marius on -the ruins of Carthage, their splendid desolation. - -Such is the vast expanse of country from which Nature’s men are at -this time rapidly vanishing, giving way to the _modern crusade_ which -is following the thousand allurements, and stocking with myriads, this -world of green fields. This splendid area, denominated the “Valley of -the Mississippi,” embraced between the immutable barriers on either -side, the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains; with the Gulf of Mexico on -the South, and the great string of lakes on the North, and the mighty -Mississippi rolling its turbid waters through it, for the distance of -four thousand miles, receiving its hundred tributaries, whose banks -and plateaus are capable of supporting a population of one hundred -millions, covered almost entirely with the richest soil in the world, -with lead, iron, and coal, sufficient for its population—with twelve -thousand miles of river navigation for steamers, within its embrace, -besides the coast on the South, and the great expanse of lakes on the -North—with a population of five millions, already sprinkled over its -nether half, and a greater part of the remainder of it, inviting the -world to its possession, for one dollar and 25 cents (five shillings) -per acre! - -I ask, who can contemplate, without amazement, this _mighty river -alone_, eternally rolling its boiling waters through the richest of -soil, for the distance of four thousand miles; over three thousand -five hundred of which, I have myself been wafted on mighty steamers, -ensconced within “curtains damasked, and carpets ingrain;” and on its -upper half, gazed with tireless admiration upon its thousand hills and -mounds of grass and green, sloping down to the water’s edge, in all -the grace and beauty of Nature’s loveliest fabrication. On its lower -half, also, whose rich alluvial shores are studded with stately cotton -wood and elms, which echo back the deep and hollow cough of the puffing -steamers. I have contemplated the bed of this vast river, sinking from -its natural surface; and the alligator driven to its bosom, abandoning -his native bog and fen, which are drying and growing into beauty and -loveliness under the hand of the husbandman. - -I have contemplated these boundless forests melting away before the -fatal axe, until the expanded waters of this vast channel, and its -countless tributaries, will yield their surplus to the thirsty sunbeam, -to which their shorn banks will expose them; and I have contemplated, -also, the never-ending transit of steamers, ploughing up the sand -and deposit from its bottom, which its turbid waters are eternally -hurrying on to the ocean, sinking its channel, and thereby raising its -surrounding alluvions for the temptations and enjoyment of man. - -All this is _certain_. Man’s increase, and the march of human -improvements in this New World, are as true and irresistible as the -laws of nature, and he who could rise from his grave and speak, or -would speak from the _life_ some half century from this, would proclaim -my prophecy true and fulfilled. I said above, (and I again say it,) -that these are subjects for “sublime contemplation!” At all events -they are so to the traveller, who has wandered over and seen this -vast subject in all its parts, and able to appreciate—who has seen -the frightened _herds_, as well as _multitudes of human_, giving way -and shrinking from the mountain wave of civilization, which is busily -rolling on behind them. - -From Maine to Florida on the Atlantic coast, the forefathers of those -hardy sons who are now stocking this fair land, have, from necessity, -in a hard and stubborn soil, inured their hands to labour, and their -habits and taste of life to sobriety and economy, which will ensure -them success in the new world. - -This rich country which is now alluring the enterprising young men from -the East, being commensurate with the whole Atlantic States, holds out -the extraordinary inducement that every emigrant can enjoy a richer -soil, and that too in his own native latitude. The sugar planter, the -rice, cotton, and tobacco growers—corn, rye, and wheat producers, from -Louisiana to Montreal, have only to turn their faces to the West, and -there are waiting for them the same atmosphere to breathe, and green -fields already cleared, and ready for the plough, too tempting to be -overlooked or neglected. - -As far west as the banks of the Mississippi, the great wave of -emigration has rolled on, and already in its rear the valley is -sprinkled with towns and cities, with their thousand spires pointing -to the skies. For several hundred miles West, also, have the daring -pioneers ventured their lives and fortunes, with their families, -testing the means and luxuries of life, which Nature has spread before -them; in the country where the buried tomahawk is scarce rusted, and -the war-cry has scarcely died on the winds. Among these people have I -roamed. On the Red River I have seen the rich Louisianian chequering -out his cotton and sugar plantations, where the sunbeam could be seen -reflected from the glistening pates of his hundred negroes, making -first trespass with the hoe. I have sat with him at his hospitable -table in his log cabin, sipping sherry and champaigne. _He_ talks of -“_hogsheads_ and _price of stocks_,” or “goes in for cotton.” - -In the western parts of Arkansas and Missouri, I have shared the -genuine cottage hospitality of the abrupt, yet polite and honourable -Kentuckian; the easy, affable and sociable Tennesseean; _this_ has “a -smart chance of corn;” the _other_, perhaps, “a power of cotton;” and -then, occasionally, (from the “Old Dominion,”) “I _reckon_ I shall have -a _mighty heap_ of tobacco this season,” &c. - -Boys in this country are “_peart_,” fever and ague renders one -“_powerful weak_,” and sometimes it is almost impossible to get -“_shet_” of it. Intelligence, hospitality, and good cheer reign -under all of these humble roofs, and the traveller who knows how to -appreciate those things, with a good cup of coffee, “_corn_[22] bread,” -and fresh butter, can easily enjoy moments of bliss in converse with -the humble pioneer. - -On the Upper Mississippi and Missouri, for the distance of seven or -eight hundred miles above St. Louis, is one of the most beautiful -champaigne countries in the world, continually alternating into timber -and fields of the softest green, calculated, from its latitude, for the -people of the northern and eastern states, and “Jonathan” is already -here—and almost every body else from “down East”—with fences of white, -drawn and drawing, like chalk lines, over the green prairie. “By gosh, -this ere is the biggest clearin I ever see.” “I expect we had’nt ought -to raise nothin but wheat and rye here.”—“I guess you’ve come arter -land, ha’nt you?” - -Such is the character of this vast country, and such the manner in -which it is filled up, with people from all parts, tracing their -own latitudes, and carrying with them their local peculiarities and -prejudices. The mighty Mississippi, however, the great and everlasting -highway on which these people are for ever to intermingle their -interests and manners, will effectually soften down those prejudices, -and eventually result in an amalgamation of feelings and customs, -from which this huge mass of population will take one new and general -appellation. - -It is here that the true character of the _American_ is to be -formed—here where the peculiarities and incongruities which detract -from his true character are surrendered for the free, yet lofty -principle that strikes between meanness and prodigality—between -_literal democracy_ and _aristocracy_—between low cunning and -self-engendered ingenuousness. Such will be found to be the true -character of the Americans when jostled awhile together, until their -local angles are worn off; and such may be found and already pretty -well formed, in the genuine Kentuckian, the first brave and daring -pioneer of the great West; he is the true model of an American—the -nucleus around which the character must form, and from which it is -to emanate to the world. This is the man who first relinquished the -foibles and fashions of Eastern life, trailing his rifle into the -forest of the Mississippi, taking simple Nature for his guide. From -necessity (as well as by nature), bold and intrepid, with the fixed -and unfaltering brow of integrity, and a hand whose very grip (without -words) tells you welcome. - -And yet, many people of the East object to the Mississippi, “that it -is too far off—is out of the world.” But how strange and insufficient -is such an objection to the traveller who has seen and enjoyed its -hospitality, and reluctantly retreats from it with feelings of regret; -pronouncing it a “world of itself, equal in luxuries and amusements to -any other.” How weak is such an objection to him who has ascended the -Upper Mississippi to the Fall of St. Anthony, traversed the States of -Missouri, Illinois, and Michigan, and territory of Ouisconsin; over -all of which nature has spread her green fields, smiling and tempting -man to ornament with painted house and fence, with prancing steed and -tasseled carriage—with countless villages, silvered spires and domes, -denoting march of intellect and wealth’s refinement. The sun is sure to -look upon these scenes, and we, perhaps, “_may hear the tinkling from -our graves_.” Adieu. - - [21] Poor Chadwick! a few days after the above occasion, he sent - his portrait to his mother, and started for Texas, where he joined - the Texan army, with a commission from Governor Houston; was taken - prisoner in the first battle that he fought, and was amongst the - four hundred prisoners who were shot down in cold blood by the - order of Santa Anna. - - - [22] Maize. - - - - - LETTER—No. 54. - - RED PIPE STONE QUARRY, _CÔTEAU DES PRAIRIES_. - - -The reader who would follow me from the place where my last epistle -was written, to where I now am, must needs start, as I did, from St. -Louis, and cross the Alleghany mountains, to my own native state; -where I left my wife with my parents, and wended my way to Buffalo, on -Lake Erie, where I deposited my Collection; and from thence trace, as -I did, the zig-zag course of the Lakes, from Buffalo to Detroit—to the -Sault de St. Marys—to Mackinaw—to Green Bay, and thence the tortuous -windings of the Fox and Ouisconsin Rivers, to Prairie du Chien; and -then the mighty Mississippi (for the second time), to the Fall of St. -Anthony—then the sluggish, yet decorated and beautiful St. Peters, -towards its source; and thence again (on horseback) the gradually and -gracefully rising terraces of the shorn, yet green and carpeted plains, -denominated the “_Côteau des Prairies_” (being the high and dividing -ridge between the St. Peters and the Missouri Rivers), where I am -bivouacked, at the “_Red Pipe Stone Quarry_.” The distance of such a -Tour would take the reader 4,000 miles; but I save him the trouble by -bringing him, in a moment, on the spot. - -This journey has afforded me the opportunity of seeing, on my way, -_Mackinaw_—the _Sault de St. Marys_, and _Green Bay_—points which I -had not before visited; and also of seeing many distinguished Indians -among the Chippeways, Menomonies and Winnebagoes, whom I had not before -painted or seen. - -I can put the people of the East at rest, as to the hostile aspect of -this part of the country, as I have just passed through the midst of -these tribes, as well as of the Sioux, in whose country I now am, and -can, without contradiction, assert, that, as far as can be known, they -are generally well-disposed, and have been so, towards the whites. - -There have been two companies of United States dragoons, ordered -and marched to Green Bay, where I saw them; and three companies of -infantry from Prairie du Chien to Fort Winnebago, in anticipation -of difficulties; but in all probability, without any real cause or -necessity, for the Winnebago chief answered the officer, who asked -him if they wanted to fight, “that they _could_ not, had they been so -disposed; for,” said he, “we have no guns, no ammunition, nor anything -to eat; and, what is worst of all, one half of our men are dying -with the small-pox. If you will give us guns and ammunition, and pork, -and flour, and feed and take care of our squaws and children, we will -fight you; nevertheless, we will _try_ to fight if you want us to, as -it is.” - -[Illustration: 264] - -[Illustration: 265] - -There is, to appearance (and there is no doubt of the truth of it), the -most humble poverty and absolute necessity for peace among these people -at present, that can possibly be imagined. And, amidst their poverty -and wretchedness, the only war that suggests itself to the eye of the -traveller through their country, is the _war of sympathy and pity_, -which wages in the breast of a feeling, thinking man. - -The small-pox, whose ravages have now pretty nearly subsided, has taken -off a great many of the Winnebagoes and Sioux. The famous Wa-be-sha, -of the Sioux, and more than half of his band, have fallen victims -to it within a few weeks, and the remainder of them, blackened with -its frightful distortions, look as it they had just emerged from the -sulphurous regions below. At Prairie du Chien, a considerable number -of the half-breeds, and French also, suffered death by this baneful -disease; and at that place I learned one fact, which may be of service -to science, which was this: that in all cases of vaccination, which had -been given several years ago, it was an efficient protection; but in -those cases where the vaccine had been recent (and there were many of -them), it had not the effect to protect, and in almost every instance -of such, death ensued. - -At the Sault de St. Marys on Lake Superior, I saw a considerable number -of Chippeways, living entirely on fish, which they catch with great -ease at that place. - -I need not detain the reader a moment with a description of St. Marys, -or of the inimitable summer’s paradise, which can always be seen -at Mackinaw; and which, like the other, has been an hundred times -described. I shall probably have the chance of seeing about 3,000 -Chippeways at the latter place on my return home, who are to receive -their annuities at that time through the hands of Mr. Schoolcraft, -their agent. - -In +plate+ 264, I have given a distant view of _Mackinaw_, as seen -approaching it from the East; and in +plate+ 265, a view of the _Sault -de St. Marys_, taken from the Canada shore, near the missionary-house, -which is seen in the foreground of the picture, and in distance, the -United States Garrison, and the Rapids; and beyond them the Capes at -the outlet of Lake Superior. - -I mentioned that the Chippeways living in the vicinity of the Sault, -live entirely on fish; and it is almost literally true also, that the -French and English, and Americans, who reside about there live on fish, -which are caught in the greatest abundance in the rapids at that place, -and are, perhaps, one of the greatest luxuries of the world. The _white -fish_, which is in appearance much like a salmon, though smaller, is -the luxury I am speaking of, and is caught in immense quantities by -the scoop-nets of the Indians and Frenchmen, amongst the foaming and -dashing water of the rapids (+plate+ 266), where it gains strength -and flavour not to be found in the same fish in any other place. This -unequalled fishery has long been one of vast importance to the immense -numbers of Indians, who have always assembled about it; but of late, -has been found by _money-making men_, to be too valuable a spot for the -exclusive occupancy of the savage, like hundreds of others, and has -at last been filled up with adventurers, who have dipped _their_ nets -till the poor Indian is styled an intruder; and his timid bark is seen -dodging about in the coves for a scanty subsistence, whilst he scans -and envies insatiable white man filling his barrels and boats, and -sending them to market to be converted into money. - -In +plate+ 267 is seen one of their favourite amusements at this place, -which I was lucky enough to witness a few miles below the Sault, when -high bettings had been made, and a great concourse of Indians had -assembled to witness an _Indian regatta_ or _canoe race_, which went -off with great excitement, firing of guns, yelping, &c. The Indians in -this vicinity are all Chippeways, and their canoes all made of birch -bark, and chiefly of one model; they are exceedingly light, as I have -before described, and propelled with wonderful velocity. - -Whilst I stopped at the Sault, I made excursions on Lake Superior, -and through other parts of the country, both on the Canada and United -States sides, and painted a number of Chippeways; amongst whom were -_On-daig_ (the crow, +plate+ 268), a young man of distinction, in an -extravagant and beautiful costume; and _Gitch-ee-gaw-ga-osh_ (the -point that remains for ever), +plate+ 269, an old and respected -chief.[23] And besides these, _Gaw-zaw-que-dung_ (he who hallows); -_Kay-ee-qua-da-kum-ee-gish-kum_ (he who tries the ground with his -foot); and _I-an-be-wa-dick_ (the male carabou.) - -From Mackinaw I proceeded to Green Bay, which is a flourishing -beginning of a town, in the heart of a rich country, and the -head-quarters of land speculators. - -From thence, I embarked in a large bark canoe, with five French -voyageurs at the oars, where happened to be grouped and _messed_ -together, five “jolly companions” of us, bound for Fort Winnebago and -the Mississippi. All our stores and culinary articles were catered for -by, and bill rendered to, mine host, Mr. C. Jennings (quondam of the -city hotel in New York), who was one of our party, and whom we soon -elected “_Major_” of the expedition; and shortly after, promoted to -“_Colonel_”—from the philosophical dignity and patience with which he -met the difficulties and exposure which we had to encounter, as well -as for his extraordinary skill and taste displayed in the culinary -art. Mr. Irving, a relative of W. Irving, Esq., and Mr. Robert Serril -Wood, an Englishman (both travellers of European realms, with fund -inexhaustible for amusement and entertainment); Lieutenant Reed, -of the army, and myself, forming the rest of the party. The many -amusing little incidents which enlivened our transit up the sinuous -windings of the Fox river, amid its rapids, its banks of loveliest -prairies and “oak openings,” and its boundless shores of wild rice, -with the thrilling notes of Mr. Wood’s guitar, and “_chansons pour -rire_,” from our tawny boatmen, &c. were too good to be thrown away, -and have been registered, perhaps for a future occasion. Suffice it -for the present, that our fragile bark brought us in good time to Fort -Winnebago, with impressions engraven on our hearts which can never -be erased, of this sweet and beautiful little river, and of the fun -and fellowship which kept us awake during the nights, almost as well -as during the days. At this post, after remaining a day, our other -companions took a different route, leaving Mr. Wood and myself to cater -anew, and to buy a light bark canoe for our voyage down the Ouisconsin, -to Prairie du Chien; in which we embarked the next day, with paddles in -hand, and hearts as light as the zephyrs, amid which we propelled our -little canoe. Three days’ paddling, embracing two nights’ encampment, -brought us to the end of our voyage. We entered the mighty Mississippi, -and mutually acknowledged ourselves paid for our labours, by the -inimitable scenes of beauty and romance, through which we had passed, -and on which our untiring eyes had been riveted during the whole way. - -[Illustration: 266] - -[Illustration: 267] - -[Illustration: 268 269] - -The Ouisconsin, which the French most appropriately denominate “La -belle riviere,” may certainly vie with any other on the Continent or -in the world, for its beautifully skirted banks and prairie bluffs. It -may justly be said to be equal to the Mississippi about the Prairie du -Chien in point of sweetness and beauty, but not on quite so grand a -scale. - -My excellent and esteemed fellow-traveller, like a true Englishman, has -untiringly stuck by me through all difficulties, passing the countries -above-mentioned, and also the Upper Mississippi, the St. Peters, and -the overland route to our present encampment on this splendid plateau -of the Western world. * * * * * * * Thus far have I strolled, within -the space of a few weeks, for the purpose of reaching _classic ground_. - -Be not amazed if I have sought, in this distant realm, the Indian -_Muse_, for here she dwells, and here she must be invoked—nor be -offended if my narratives from this moment should savour of poetry or -appear like romance. - -If I can catch the inspiration, I may sing (or yell) a few epistles -from this famed ground before I leave it; or at least I will _prose_ a -few of its leading characteristics and mysterious legends. This place -is great (not in history, for there is none of it, but) in traditions, -and stories, of which this Western world is full and rich. - -“Here (according to their traditions), happened the mysterious birth -of the red pipe, which has blown its fumes of peace and war to the -remotest corners of the Continent; which has visited every warrior, -and passed through its reddened stem the irrevocable oath of war and -desolation. And here also, the peace-breathing calumet was born, and -fringed with the eagle’s quills, which has shed its thrilling fumes -over the land, and soothed the fury of the relentless savage. - -“The Great Spirit at an ancient period, here called the Indian nations -together, and standing on the precipice of the red pipe stone rock, -broke from its wall a piece, and made a huge pipe by turning it in his -hand, which he smoked over them, and to the North, the South, the East, -and the West, and told them that this stone was red—that it was their -flesh—that they must use it for their pipes of peace—that it belonged -to them all, and that the war-club and scalping knife must not be -raised on its ground. At the last whiff of his pipe his head went into -a great cloud, and the whole surface of the rock for several miles was -melted and glazed; two great ovens were opened beneath, and two women -(guardian spirits of the place), entered them in a blaze of fire; and -they are heard there yet (Tso-mec-cos-tee, and Tso-me-cos-te-won-dee), -answering to the invocations of the high priests or medicine-men, who -consult them when they are visitors to this sacred place.” - -Near this spot, also, on a high mound, is the “_Thunder’s nest_,” -(_nid-du-Tonnere_), where “a very small bird sits upon her eggs during -fair weather, and the skies are rent with bolts of thunder at the -approach of a storm, which is occasioned by the hatching of her brood!” - -“This bird is eternal, and incapable of reproducing her own species: -she has often been seen by the medicine-men, and is about as large as -the end of the little finger! Her mate is a serpent, whose fiery tongue -destroys the young ones as they are hatched, and the fiery noise darts -through the skies.” - -Such are a few of the stories of this famed land, which of itself, in -its beauty and loveliness, without the aid of traditionary fame, would -be appropriately denominated a paradise. Whether it has been an Indian -Eden or not, or whether the thunderbolts of Indian Jupiter are actually -forged here, it is nevertheless a place renowned in Indian heraldry -and tradition, which I hope I may be able to fathom and chronicle, as -explanatory of many of my anecdotes and traditionary superstitions of -Indian history, which I have given, and _am giving_, to the world. - -With my excellent companion, I am encamped on, and writing from, the -very rock where “the Great Spirit stood when he consecrated the _pipe -of peace_, by moulding it from the rock, and smoking it over the -congregated nations that were assembled about him.” (See +plate+ 270.) - -Lifted up on this stately mound, whose top is fanned with air as -light to breathe as nitrous oxide gas—and bivouacked on its very -ridge, (where nought on earth is seen in distance save the thousand -_treeless_, _bushless_, _weedless_ hills of grass and vivid green which -all around me vanish into an infinity of blue and azure), stretched -on our bears’-skins, my fellow-traveller, Mr. Wood, and myself, have -laid and contemplated the splendid orrery of the heavens. With _sad -delight_, that shook me with a terror, have I watched the swollen sun -_shoving down_ (too fast for time) upon the mystic horizon; whose line -was lost except as it was marked in blue across his blood-red disk. -Thus have we laid night after night (two congenial spirits who could -draw pleasure from sublime contemplation), and descanted on our own -insignificance; we have closely drawn our buffalo robes about us, -talked of the ills of life—of friends we had lost—of projects that had -failed—and of the painful steps we had to retrace to reach our own dear -native lands again. We have sighed in the melancholy of twilight, when -the busy winds were breathing their last, the chill of sable night was -hovering around us, and nought of noise was heard but the silvery tones -of the howling wolf, and the subterraneous whistle of the busy gophirs -that were ploughing and vaulting the earth beneath us. Thus have we -seen _wheeled down_ in the _West_, the glories of day; and at the next -moment, in the East, beheld her _silver majesty_ jutting up above the -horizon, with splendour in her face that seemed again to fill the world -with joy and gladness. We have seen here, too, in all its sublimity, -the blackening thunderstorm—the lightning’s glare, and stood amidst -the jarring thunderbolts, that tore and broke in awful rage about us, -as they rolled over the smooth surface, with nought but empty air to -vent their vengeance on. There is a sublime grandeur in these scenes as -they are presented here, which must be seen and felt, to be understood. -There is a majesty in the very ground that we tread upon, that inspires -with awe and reverence; and he must have the soul of a brute, who could -gallop his horse for a whole day over swells and terraces of green that -rise continually a-head, and tantalize (where hills peep over hills, -and Alps on Alps arise), without feeling his bosom swell with awe and -admiration, and himself as well as his thoughts, lifted up in sublimity -when he rises the last terrace, and sweeps his eye over the wide -spread, blue and pictured infinity that lies around and beneath him.[24] - -[Illustration: 270] - -Man feels here, and startles at the thrilling sensation, the force of -_illimitable freedom_—his body and his mind both seem to have entered -a new element—the former as free as the very wind it inhales, and the -other as expanded and infinite as the boundless imagery that is spread -in distance around him. Such is (and it is feebly told) the _Côteau -du Prairie_. The rock on which I sit to write, is the summit of a -precipice thirty feet high, extending two miles in length and much -of the way polished, as if a liquid glazing had been poured over its -surface. Not far from us, in the solid rock, are the deep impressed -“footsteps of the Great Spirit (in the form of a track of a large -bird), where he formerly stood when the blood of the buffaloes that -he was devouring, ran into the rocks and turned them red.” At a few -yards from us, leaps a beautiful little stream, from the top of the -precipice, into a deep basin below. Here, amid rocks of the loveliest -hues, but wildest contour, is seen the poor Indian performing ablution; -and at a little distance beyond, on the plain, at the base of five huge -granite boulders, he is humbly propitiating the guardian spirits of the -place, by sacrifices of tobacco, entreating for permission to take away -a small piece of the red stone for a pipe. Farther along, and over an -extended plain are seen, like gophir hills, their excavations, ancient -and recent, and on the surface of the rocks, various marks and their -sculptured hieroglyphics—their wakons, totems and medicines—subjects -numerous and interesting for the antiquary or the merely curious. -Graves, mounds, and ancient fortifications that lie in sight—the -_pyramid_ or _leaping-rock_, and its legends; together with traditions, -novel and numerous, and a description, graphical and geological, of -this strange place, have all been subjects that have passed rapidly -through my contemplation, and will be given in future epistles. - -On our way to this place, my English companion and myself were arrested -by a rascally band of the Sioux, and held in _durance vile_, for having -dared to approach the sacred _fountain of the pipe_! While we had -halted at the trading-hut of “Le Blanc,” at a place called _Traverse -des Sioux_, on the St. Peters river, and about 150 miles from the Red -Pipe, a murky cloud of dark-visaged warriors and braves commenced -gathering around the house, closing and cramming all its avenues, when -one began his agitated and insulting harangue to us, announcing to us -in the preamble, that we were prisoners, and could not go ahead. About -twenty of them spoke in turn; and we were doomed to sit nearly the -whole afternoon, without being allowed to speak a word in our behalf, -until they had all got through. We were compelled to keep our seats -like culprits, and hold our tongues, till all had brandished their -fists in our faces, and vented all the threats and invective which -could flow from Indian malice, grounded on the presumption that we had -come to trespass on their dearest privilege,—their religion. - -There was some allowance to be made, and some excuse, surely, for the -rashness of these poor fellows, and we felt disposed to pity, rather -than resent, though their _unpardonable stubbornness_ excited us -almost to desperation. Their superstition was sensibly touched, for we -were persisting, in the most peremptory terms, in the determination -to visit this, their greatest medicine (mystery) place; where, it -seems, they had often resolved no white man should ever be allowed to -go. They took us to be “officers sent by Government to see what this -place was worth,” &c. As “this red stone was a part of their flesh,” -it would be sacrilegious for white man to touch or take it away—“a -hole would be made in their flesh, and the blood could never be made -to stop running.” My companion and myself were here in a _fix_, one -that demanded the use of every energy we had about us; astounded at -so unexpected a rebuff, and more than ever excited to go ahead, and -see what was to be seen at this strange place; in this emergency, we -mutually agreed to go forward, even if it should be at the hazard -of our lives; we heard all they had to say, and then made our own -speeches—and at length had our horses brought, which we mounted and -rode off without further molestation; and having arrived upon this -interesting ground, have found it quite equal in interest and beauty to -our sanguine expectations, abundantly repaying us for all our trouble -in traveling to it. - -I had long ago heard many curious descriptions of this spot given by -the Indians, and had contracted the most impatient desire to visit -it.[25] It will be seen by some of the traditions inserted in this -Letter, from my notes taken on the Upper Missouri four years since, -that those tribes have visited this place freely in former times; and -that it has once been held and owned in common, as neutral ground, -amongst the different tribes who met here to renew their pipes, under -some superstition which stayed the tomahawk of natural foes, always -raised in deadly hate and vengeance in other places. It will be -seen also, that within a few years past (and that, probably, by the -instigation of the whites, who have told them that by keeping off other -tribes, and manufacturing the pipes themselves, and trading them to -other adjoining nations, they can acquire much influence and wealth), -the Sioux have laid entire claim to this quarry; and as it is in the -centre of their country, and they are more powerful than any other -tribes, they are able successfully to prevent any access to it. - -That this place should have been visited for centuries past by all the -neighbouring tribes, who have hidden the war-club as they approached -it, and stayed the cruelties of the scalping-knife, under the fear of -the vengeance of the Great Spirit, who overlooks it, will not seem -strange or unnatural, when their religion and superstitions are known. - -That such has been the custom, there is not a shadow of doubt; and that -even so recently as to have been witnessed by hundreds and thousands -of Indians of different tribes, now living, and from many of whom I -have personally drawn the information, some of which will be set forth -in the following traditions; and as an additional (and still more -conclusive) evidence of the above position, here are to be seen (and -will continue to be seen for ages to come), the _totems_ and _arms_ -of the different tribes, who have visited this place for ages past, -deeply engraved on the quartz rocks, where they are to be recognized in -a moment (and not to be denied) by the passing traveller, who has been -among these tribes, and acquired even but a partial knowledge of them -and their respective modes.[26] - -The thousands of inscriptions and paintings on the rocks at this -place, as well as the ancient diggings for the pipe-stone, will afford -amusement for the world who will visit it, without furnishing the least -data, I should think, of the time at which these excavations commenced, -or of the period at which the Sioux assumed the exclusive right to it. - -Among the many traditions which I have drawn personally from the -different tribes, and which go to support the opinion above advanced, -is the following one, which was related to me by a distinguished -Knisteneaux, on the Upper Missouri, four years since, on occasion of -presenting to me a handsome red stone pipe. After telling me that he -had been to this place—and after describing it in all its features, he -proceeded to say:— - -“That in the time of a great freshet, which took place many centuries -ago, and destroyed all the nations of the earth, all the tribes of the -red men assembled on the Côteau du Prairie, to get out of the way of -the waters. After they had all gathered here from all parts, the water -continued to rise, until at length it covered them all in a mass, and -their flesh was converted into red pipe stone. Therefore it has always -been considered neutral ground—it belonged to all tribes alike, and all -were allowed to get it and smoke it together. - -“While they were all drowning in a mass, a young woman, K-wap-tah-w (a -virgin), caught hold of the foot of a very large bird that was flying -over, and was carried to the top of a high cliff, not far off, that -was above the water. Here she had twins, and their father was the -war-eagle, and her children have since peopled the earth. - -“The pipe stone, which is the flesh of their ancestors, is smoked by -them as the symbol of peace, and the eagle’s quill decorates the head -of the brave.” - -_Tradition of the Sioux._—“Before the creation of man, the Great Spirit -(whose tracks are yet to be seen on the stones, at the Red Pipe, in -form of the tracks of a large bird) used to slay the buffaloes and -eat them on the ledge of the Red Rocks, on the top of the Côteau des -Prairies, and their blood running on to the rocks, turned them red. One -day when a large snake had crawled into the nest of the bird to eat -his eggs, one of the eggs hatched out in a clap of thunder, and the -Great Spirit catching hold of a piece of the pipe stone to throw at the -snake, moulded it into a man. This man’s feet grew fast in the ground -where he stood for many ages, like a great tree, and therefore he grew -very old; he was older than an hundred men at the present day; and at -last another tree grew up by the side of him, when a large snake ate -them both off at the roots, and they wandered off together; from these -have sprung all the people that now inhabit the earth.” - -The above tradition I found amongst the Upper Missouri Sioux, but -which, when I related to that part of the great tribe of Sioux who -inhabit the Upper Mississippi, they seemed to know nothing about it. -The reason for this may have been, perhaps, as is often the case, owing -to the fraud or excessive ignorance of the interpreter, on whom we -are often entirely dependent in this country; or it is more probably -owing to the very vague and numerous fables which may often be found, -cherished and told by different bands or families in the same tribe, -and relative to the same event. - -I shall on a future occasion, give you a Letter on traditions of this -kind, which will be found to be very strange and amusing; establishing -the fact at the same time, that theories respecting their origin, -creation of the world, &c. &c., are by no means uniform throughout -the different tribes, nor even through an individual tribe; and that -very many of these theories are but the vagaries, or the ingenious -systems of their medicine or mystery-men, conjured up and taught to -their own respective parts of a tribe, for the purpose of gaining an -extraordinary influence over the minds and actions of the remainder -of the tribe, whose superstitious minds, under the supernatural -controul and dread of these self-made magicians, are held in a state of -mysterious vassalage. - -Amongst the Sioux of the Mississippi, and who live in the region of -the Red Pipe Stone Quarry, I found the following and not less strange -tradition on the same subject. “Many ages after the red men were made, -when all the different tribes were at war, the Great Spirit sent -runners and called them all together at the ‘Red Pipe.’—He stood on the -top of the rocks, and the red people were assembled in infinite numbers -on the plains below. He took out of the rock a piece of the red stone, -and made a large pipe; he smoked it over them all; told them that it -was part of their flesh; that though they were at war, they must meet -at this place as friends; that it belonged to them all; that they must -make their calumets from it and smoke them to him whenever they wished -to appease him or get his good-will—the smoke from his big pipe rolled -over them all, and he disappeared in its cloud; at the last whiff -of his pipe a blaze of fire rolled over the rocks, and melted their -surface—at that moment two squaws went in a blaze of fire under the two -medicine rocks, where they remain to this day, and must be consulted -and propitiated whenever the pipe stone is to be taken away.” - -The following speech of a Mandan, which was made to me in the Mandan -village four years since, after I had painted his picture, I have -copied from my note-book as corroborative of the same facts: - -“My brother—You have made my picture and I like it much. My friends -tell me they can see the eyes move, and it must be very good—it must -be partly alive. I am glad it is done—though many of my people are -afraid. I am a young man, but my heart is strong. I have jumped on to -the medicine-rock—I have placed my arrow on it and no Mandan can take -it away.[27] The red stone is slippery, but my foot was true—it did -not slip. My brother, this pipe which I give to you, I brought from a -high mountain, it is toward the rising sun—many were the pipes that -we brought from there—and we brought them away in peace. We left our -_totems_ or marks on the rocks—we cut them deep in the stones, and -they are there now. The Great Spirit told all nations to meet there -in peace, and all nations hid the war-club and the tomahawk. The -_Dah-co-tahs_, who are our enemies, are very strong—they have taken up -the tomahawk, and the blood of our warriors has run on the rocks. My -friend, we want to visit our medicines—our pipes are old and worn out. -My friend, I wish you to speak to our Great Father about this.” - -The chief of the Puncahs, on the Upper Missouri, also made the -following allusion to this place, in a speech which he made to me on -the occasion of presenting me a very handsome pipe about four years -since:— - -“My friend, this pipe, which I wish you to accept, was dug from the -ground, and cut and polished as you now see it, by my hands. I wish -you to keep it, and when you smoke through it, recollect that this -red stone is a part of our flesh. This is one of the last things we -can ever give away. Our enemies the Sioux, have raised the red flag -of blood over the Pipe Stone Quarry, and our medicines there are -trodden under foot by them. The Sioux are many, and we cannot go to the -mountain of the red pipe. We have seen all nations smoking together at -that place—but, my brother, it is not so now.”[28] - -Such are a few of the stories relating to this curious place, and many -others might be given which I have procured, though they amount to -nearly the same thing, with equal contradictions and equal absurdities. - -The position of the Pipe Stone Quarry, is in a direction nearly West -from the Fall of St. Anthony, at a distance of three hundred miles, -on the summit of the dividing ridge between the St. Peters and the -Missouri rivers, being about equi-distant from either. This dividing -ridge is denominated by the French, the “Côteau des Prairies,” and -the “Pipe Stone Quarry” is situated near its southern extremity, and -consequently not exactly on its highest elevation, as its general -course is north and south, and its southern extremity terminates in a -gradual slope. - -Our approach to it was from the East, and the ascent, for the distance -of fifty miles, over a continued succession of slopes and terraces, -almost imperceptibly rising one above another, that seemed to lift -us to a great height. The singular character of this majestic mound, -continues on the West side, in its descent toward the Missouri. There -is not a tree or bush to be seen from the highest summit of the ridge, -though the eye may range East and West, almost to a boundless extent, -over a surface covered with a short grass, that is green at one’s feet, -and about him, but changing to blue in distance, like nothing but the -blue and vastness of the ocean. - -The whole surface of this immense tract of country is hard and smooth, -almost without stone or gravel, and coated with a green turf of grass -of three or four inches only in height. Over this the wheels of a -carriage would run as easily, for hundreds of miles, as they could on a -Mc Adamized road, and its graceful gradations would in all parts, admit -of a horse to gallop, with ease to himself and his rider. - -The full extent and true character of these vast prairies are but -imperfectly understood by the world yet; who will agree with me that -they are a subject truly sublime, for contemplation, when I assure -them, that “a coach and four” might, be driven with ease, (with the -exception of rivers and ravines, which are in many places impassable), -over unceasing fields of green, from the Fall of St. Anthony to Lord -Selkirk’s Establishment on the Red River, at the North; from that to -the mouth of Yellow Stone on the Missouri—thence to the Platte—to the -Arkansas, and Red Rivers of the South, and through Texas to the Gulf of -Mexico, a distance of more than three thousand miles. - -I mentioned in a former Letter, that we had been arrested by the Sioux, -on our approach to this place, at the trading-post of Le Blanc, on -the banks of the St. Peters; and I herein insert the most important -part of the speeches made, and talks held on that momentous occasion, -as near as my friend and I could restore them, from partial notes and -recollection. After these copper-visaged advocates of their country’s -rights had assembled about us, and filled up every avenue of the cabin, -the grave council was opened in the following manner:— - -_Te-o-kun-hko_ (the swift man), first rose and said— - -“My friends, I am not a chief, but the son of a chief—I am the son of -my father—he is a chief—and when he is gone away, it is my duty to -speak for him—he is not here—but what I say is the talk of his mouth. -We have been told that you are going to the Pipe Stone Quarry. We come -now to ask for what purpose you are going, and what business you have -to go there.” (‘How! how!’ vociferated all of them, thereby approving -what was said, giving assent by the word _how_, which is their word for -yes). - -“_Brothers_—I am a brave, but not a chief—my arrow stands in the top of -the leaping-rock; all can see it, and all know that Te-o-kun-hko’s foot -has been there. (‘How! how!’) - -“_Brothers_—We look at you and we see that you are Che-mo-ke-mon -capitains (white men officers): we know that you have been sent by your -Government, to see what that place is worth, and we think the white -people want to buy it. (‘How! how!’). - -“_Brothers_—We have seen always that the white people, when they see -anything in our country that they want, send officers to value it, and -then if they can’t buy it, they will get it some other way. (‘How! -how!’) - -“_Brothers_—I speak strong, my heart is strong, and I speak fast; this -red pipe was given to the red men by the Great Spirit—it is a part of -our flesh, and therefore is great _medicine_. (‘How! how!’) - -“_Brothers_—We know that the whites are like a great cloud that rises -in the East, and will cover the whole country. We know that they will -have all our lands; but, if ever they get our Red Pipe Quarry they will -have to pay very dear for it. (‘How! how! how!’) - -“_Brothers_—We know that no white man has ever been to the Pipe Stone -Quarry, and our chiefs have often decided in council that no white man -shall ever go to it. (‘How! how!’) - -“_Brothers_—You have heard what I have to say, and you can go no -further, but you must turn about and go back. (‘How! how! how!’) - -“_Brothers_—You see that the sweat runs from my face, for I am -troubled.” - -Then I commenced to reply in the following manner:— - -“My friends, I am sorry that you have mistaken us so much, and the -object of our visit to your country. We are not officers—we are not -sent by any one—we are two poor men travelling to see the Sioux and -shake hands with them, and examine what is curious or interesting -in their country. This man who is with me is my friend; he is a -_Sa-ga-nosh_ (an Englishman). - -(‘How! how! how!’) - -(All rising and shaking hands with him, and a number of them taking out -and showing British medals which were carried in their bosoms.) - -“We have heard that the Red Pipe Quarry was a great curiosity, and we -have started to go to it, and we will not be stopped.” (Here I was -interrupted by a grim and black-visaged fellow, who shook his long -shaggy locks as he rose, with his sunken eyes fixed in direst hatred on -me, and his fist brandished within an inch of my face.) - -“_Pale faces!_ you cannot speak till we have all done; you are our -_prisoners_—our young men (our soldiers) are about the house, and you -must listen to what we have to say. What has been said to you is true, -you must go back. (‘How! how!’) - -“We heard the word _Saganosh_, and it makes our hearts glad; we -shook hand with our brother—his father is our father—he is our Great -Father—he lives across the big lake—his son is here, and we are glad—we -wear our Great Father the sag-a-nosh on our bosoms, and we keep his -face bright[29]—we shake hands, but no white man has been to the red -pipe and none shall go. (‘How!’) - -“You see (holding a red pipe to the side of his naked arm) that this -pipe is a part of our flesh. The red men are a part of the red stone. -(‘How, how!’) - -“If the white men take away a piece of the red pipe stone, it is a hole -made in our flesh, and the blood will always run. We cannot stop the -blood from running. (‘How, how!’) - -“The Great Spirit has told us that the red stone is only to be used for -pipes, and through them we are to smoke to him. (‘How!’) - -“Why do the white men want to get there? You have no good object in -view; we know you have none, and the sooner you go back, the better.” -(“How, how!”) - -_Muz-za_ (the iron) spoke next. - -“My friends, we do not wish to harm you; you have heard the words of -our chief men, and you now see that you must go back. (‘How, how!’) - -“_Tchan-dee-pah-sha-kah-free_ (the red pipe stone) was given to us -by the Great Spirit, and no one need ask the price of it, for it is -_medicine_. (‘How, how!’) - -“My friends, I believe what you have told us; I think your intentions -are good; but our chiefs have always told us, that no white man was -allowed to go there—and you cannot go.” (“How, how!”) - -_Another._—“My friends, you see I am a young man; you see on my -war-club two scalps from my enemies’ heads; my hands have been dipped -in blood, but I am a good man. I am a friend to the whites, to the -traders; and they are your friends. I bring them 3000 muskrat skins -every year, which I catch in my own traps. (‘How, how!’) - -“We love to go to the Pipe Stone, and get a piece for our pipes; but we -ask the Great Spirit first. If the white men go to it, they will take -it out, and not fill up the holes again, and the Great Spirit will be -offended.” (“How, how, how!”) - -_Another._—“My friends, listen to me! what I am to say will be the -truth.—(‘How!’) - -“I brought a large piece of the pipe stone, and gave it to a white man -to make a pipe; he was our trader, and I wished him to have a good -pipe. The next time I went to his store, I was unhappy when I saw that -stone made into a dish! (‘Eugh!’) - -“This is the way the white men would use the red pipe stone, if they -could get it. Such conduct would offend the Great Spirit, and make a -red man’s heart sick. (‘How, how!’) - -“_Brothers_, we do not wish to harm you—if you turn about and go back, -you will be well, both you and your _horses_—you cannot go forward. -(‘How, how!’) - -“We know that if you go to the pipe stone, the Great Spirit looks upon -you—the white people do not think of that. (‘How, how!’) - -“I have no more to say.” - -These, and a dozen other speeches to the same effect, having been -pronounced, I replied in the following manner: - -“_My friends_, you have entirely mistaken us; we are no officers, nor -are we sent by any one—the white men do not want the red pipe—it is not -worth their carrying home so far, if you were to give it all to them. -Another thing, they don’t use pipes—they don’t know how to smoke them. - -‘How, how!’ - -“_My friends_, I think as you do, that the Great Spirit has given that -place to the red men for their pipes. - -‘How, how, how!’ - -“I give you great credit for the course you are taking to preserve and -protect it; and I will do as much as any man to keep white men from -taking it away from you. - -‘How, how!’ - -“But we have started to go and see it; and we cannot think of being -stopped.” - -Another rose (interrupting me):— - -“White men! your words are very smooth; you have some object in view or -you would not be so determined to go—you have no good design, and the -quicker you turn back the better; there is no use of talking any more -about it—if you think best to go, try it; that’s all I have to say.” -(“How, how!”) - -During this scene, the son of Monsr. Le Blanc was standing by, and -seeing this man threatening me so hard by putting his fist near my -face; he several times stepped up to him, and told him to stand back -at a respectful distance, or that he would knock him down. After their -speaking was done, I made a few remarks, stating that we should go -ahead, which we did the next morning, by saddling our horses and riding -off through the midst of them, as I have before described. - -Le Blanc told us, that these were the most disorderly and treacherous -part of the Sioux nation, that they had repeatedly threatened his life, -and that he expected they would take it. He advised us to go back as -they ordered; but we heeded not his advice. - -On our way we were notified at several of their villages which -we passed, that we must go back; but we proceeded on, and over a -beautiful prairie country, of one hundred miles or more, when our -Indian guide brought us to the trading-house of an old acquaintance of -mine, Monsieur La Fromboise, who lives very comfortably, and in the -employment of the American Fur Company, near the base of the Côteau, -and forty or fifty miles from the Pipe Stone Quarry. - -We rode up unexpectedly, and at full gallop, to his door, when he met -us and addressed us as follows:— - -“Ha! Monsr. how do you do?—Quoi! ha, est ce vous, Monsr. Cataline—est -il possible? Oui, oui, vraiment le meme—mon ami, Cataline—comment se -va-t-il? et combien (pardon me though, for I can speak English). How -have you been since I saw you last season? and how under Heaven, have -you wandered into this wild region, so far from civilization? Dismount, -dismount, gentlemen, and you are welcome to the comforts, such as they -are, of my little cabin.” - -“Monsr. La Fromboise, allow me to introduce to your acquaintance, my -friend, and travelling companion, Mr. Wood, of England.” - -“Monsr. Wood, I am happy to see you, and I hope you will make allowance -for the rudeness of my cabin, and the humble manner in which I shall -entertain you.” - -“I assure you, my dear sir, that no apology is necessary; for your -house looks as delightful as a palace, to Mr. Catlin and myself, who -have so long been tenants of the open air.” - -“Gentlemen, walk in; we are surrounded with red folks here, and you -will be looked upon by them with great surprise.” - -“That’s what we want to see exactly. Catlin! that’s fine—oh! how lucky -we are.” - -“Well, gentlemen, walk into the other room; you see I have two rooms -to my house (or rather cabin), but they are small and unhandy. Such as -I have shall be at your service heartily; and I assure you, gentlemen, -that this is the happiest moment of my life. I cannot give you -feather-beds to sleep on; but I have a plenty of new robes, and you, -at all events, Monsr. Cataline, know by this time how to make a bed of -them. We can give you plenty of buffalo meat, buffalo tongues, wild -geese, ducks, prairie hens, venison, trout, young swan, beaver tails, -pigeons, plums, grapes, young bear, some green corn, squash, onions, -water-melons, and pommes des terres, some coffee and some tea.” - -“My good friend, one-half or one-third of these things (which are all -luxuries to us) would render us happy; put yourself to no trouble on -our account, and we shall be perfectly happy under your roof.” - -“I am very sorry, gentlemen, that I cannot treat you as I would be -glad to do; but you must make up for these things if you are fond of -sporting, for there are plenty of buffaloes about; at a little distance -the prairies are speckled with them; and our prairies and lakes abound -with myriads of prairie hens, ducks, geese and swan. You shall make me -a long visit, gentlemen, and we will have sport in abundance. I assure -you, that I shall be perfectly happy whilst you are with me. Pardon me -a little, while I order you some dinner, and attend to some Indians who -are in my store, trading, and taking their fall credits.” - -“That’s a fine fellow I’ll engage you,” said my companion. - -“Yes, he is all that. I have known him before; he is a gentleman, and -a polished one too, every ounce of him. You see in this instance how -durable and lasting are the manners of a true gentleman, and how little -a life-time of immersion in the wilderness, amid the reckless customs -of savage life, will extinguish or efface them. I could name you a -number of such, whose surface seems covered with a dross, which once -rubbed of, shows a polish brighter than ever.” - -We spent a day or two very pleasantly with this fine and hospitable -fellow, until we had rested from the fatigue of our journey; when he -very kindly joined us with fresh horses, and piloted us to the Pipe -Stone Quarry, where he is now encamped with us, a jolly companionable -man, and familiar with most of the events and traditions of this -strange place, which he has visited on former occasions.[30] - -La Fromboise has some good Indian blood in his veins, and from his -modes of life, as well as from a natural passion that seems to belong -to the French adventurers in these wild regions, he has a great relish -for songs and stories, of which he gives us many, and much pleasure; -and furnishes us one of the most amusing and gentlemanly companions -that could possibly be found. My friend Wood sings delightfully, -also, and as I cannot sing, but can tell, now and then, a story, with -tolerable effect, we manage to pass away our evenings, in our humble -bivouack, over our buffalo meat and prairie hens, with much fun and -amusement. In these nocturnal amusements, I have done _my_ part, by -relating anecdotes of my travels on the Missouri, and other parts of -the Indian country which I have been over; and occasionally reading -from my note-book some of the amusing entries I had formerly made in -it, but never have had time to transcribe for the world. - -As I can’t write music, and _can_ (in my own way) write a story, the -readers will acquit me of egotism or partiality, in reporting only _my -own part_ of the entertainments; which was generally the mere reading -a story or two from my notes which I have with me, or relating some of -the incidents of life which my old travelling companion “_Batiste_” and -I had witnessed in former years. - -Of these, I read one last evening, that pleased my good friend La -Fromboise so exceedingly, that I am constrained to copy it into my -Letter and send it home. - -This amusing story is one that my man Ba’tiste used to tell to Bogard, -and others with great zest; describing his adventure one night, in -endeavouring to procure a _medicine-bag_, which I had employed him to -obtain for me on the Upper Missouri; and he used to prelude it thus:— - -“Je commence—” - -“Dam your commonce, (said Bogard), tell it in English—” - -“Pardón, Monsieur, en Americaine—” - -“Well, American then, if you please; anything but your darned ‘_parlez -vous_.’” - -“Bien, excusez—now Monsieur Bogard, you must know first place, de -‘_Medicine-Bags_’ is mere humbug, he is no _medicine_ in him—no pills; -he is someting mysterieux. Some witchcraft, súppose. You must know -que tous les sauvages have such tings about him, pour for good luck. -Ce n’est que (pardón) it is only _hocus pocus_, to keep off witch, -súppose. You must know ces articles can nevare be sold, of course you -see dey cannot be buy. So my friend here, Monsieur Cataline, who have -collect all de curiosités des pays sauvages, avait made strong applique -to me pour for to get one of dese _medicine-bags_ for his Collection -curieux, et I had, pour moimeme, le curiosité extreme pour for to see -des quelques choses ces étranges looking tings was composi. - -I had learn much of dese strange custom, and I know wen de Ingin die, -his _medicine-bags_ is buried wis him. - -Oui, Monsieur, so it never can be got by any boday. Bien. I hap to tink -one day wen we was live in de mous of Yellow Stone, now is time, and I -avait said to Monsieur Cataline, que pensez vous? _Kon-te-wonda_ (un -des chefs du) (pardón, one of de chiefs, of de Knisteneaux) has die -tó-day. Il ayait une _medicine-bag_ magnifique, et extremement curieux; -il est composé d’un, it is made (pardón, si vous plait) of de wite wolf -skin, ornement et stuff wid tousand tings wich we shall see, ha? Good -luck! Suppose Monsieur Cataline, I have seen him just now. I av see de -_medicine-bag_; laid on his breast avec his hands crossed ovare it. Que -pensez vous? I can get him to-night, ha? If you will keep him, if you -shall not tell, ha? ’Tis no harm—’tis no steal—he is dead, ha? Well, -you shall _see_. But, would you not be afraid, Ba’tiste, (said Monsieur -Cataline), to take from dis poor fellow his medicines (or mysteries) -on which he has rest all his hopes in dis world, and de world to come? -Pardón, je n’ai pas peur; non, Monsieur, ne rien de peur. I nevare saw -ghost—I have not fear, mais, súppose, it is not right, éxact; but I -have grand disposition pour for to obligé my friend, et le curiosité -moimeme, pour to see wat it is made of; suppose tó-night I shall go, -ha? ‘Well, Ba’tiste, I have no objection (said Monsieur Cataline) if -your heart does not fail you, for I will be very glads to get him, -and will make you a handsome present for it, but I think it will be -a cold and gloomy kind of business.’ Nevare mind, Monsieur Cataline -(I said) provide he is well dead, _perfect dead_! Well, I had see les -Knisteneaux when dey ave bury de chap—I ave watch close, and I ave -see how de medicine-bags was put. It was fix pretty tight by some -cord around his bellay, and den some skins was wrap many times áround -him—he was put down in de hole dug for him, and some flat stones and -some little dirt was laid on him, only till next day, wen some grand -ceremonays was to be pérform ovare him, and den de hole was to be fill -up; now was de only time possibe for de _medicine-bag_, ha? I ave very -pretty little wife at dat times, Assinneboin squaw, and we sleep in one -of de stores inside of de Fort, de Trade-house, you know, ha? - -“So you may súppose I was all de day perplex to know how I should go, -somebody may watch—súppose, he may not be dead! not quite dead, ha? -nevare mind—le jour was bien long, et le nuit dismal, _dismal_! oh by -gar _it was dismal_! plien, plien (pardon) full of apprehension, mais -sans _peur_, je _navais pas peur_! So some time aftere midnights, wen -it was bout right time pour go, I made start, very light, so my wife -must not wake. Oh diable l’imagination! quel solitude! well, I have go -very well yet, I am pass de door, and I am pass de gate, and I am at -lengts arrive at de grave! súppose ‘now Ba’tiste, courage, courage! -now is de times come.’ Well, suppose, I am not fraid of _dead man_, -mais, perhaps, dese _medicine-bag_ is give by de Grande Esprit to de -Ingin for someting? possibe! I will let him keep it. I shall go back! -No, Monsieur Cataline will laughs at me. I must have him, ma foi, -mon courage! so I climb down very careful into de grave, mais, as I -déscend, my heart rise up into my mouse! Oh mon Dieu! courage Ba’tiste, -courage! ce n’est pas _l’homme_ dat I fear, mais le _medicine_, le -_medicine_. So den I ave lift out de large stones, I ave put out my -head in de dark, and I ave look all de contré round; ne personne, ne -personne—no bodé in sight! Well, I ave got softly down on my knees -ovare him, (oh, courage! courage! oui) and wen I ave unwrap de robe, -I av all de time say, ‘pardon, courage! pardon, courage! untill I ad -got de skins all off de bodé; I ave den take hold of de cord to untie, -mais!! (dans l’instant) two cold hands seize me by de wrists! and I was -just dead—I was petrifact in one instant. Oh St. Esprit! I could just -see in de dark two eyes glaring like fire sur upon me! and den, (oh, -eugh!) it spoke to me, ‘Who are you?’ (Sacré, vengeance! it will not -do to deceive him, no,) ‘I am Ba’tiste, _poor_ Ba’tiste!’ ‘Then thou -art surely mine, (as he clenched both arms tight around my boday) lie -still Ba’tiste.’ Oh, holy Vierge! St. Esprit! O mon Dieu! I could not -breathe! miserable! je sui perdu! oh pourquoi have I been such fool -to get into dese cold, cold arms! ‘Ba’tiste? (drawing me some tighter -and tighter!) do you not belong to me, Ba’tiste?’ Yes, súppose! oh -diable! belong? Oui, oui, je suis certainment perdu, lost, lost, for -evare! _Oh! can you not possibe let me go?_ ‘No, Ba’tiste, we must -never part.’ Grand Dieu! c’est finis, finis, finis avec moi! “Then you -do not love me any more, Ba’tiste?” Quel! quoi! what!! est ce vous, -_Wee-ne-on-ka_? ‘Yes, Ba’tiste, it is the _Bending Willow_ who holds -you, she that loves you and will not let you go? Are you dreaming -Ba’tiste?’ Oui, diable, ————!” - -“Well, Ba’tiste, that’s a very good story, and very well told; I -presume you never tried again to get a medicine-bag?” - -“Non, Monsieur Bogard, je vous assure, I was satisfy wis de mistakes -dat night, pour for je crois qu’il fut l’Esprit, le Grand Esprit.” - -After this, my entertaining companions sung several amusing songs, and -then called upon me for another story. Which Mr. Wood had already heard -me tell several times, and which he particularly called for; as - - “THE STORY OF THE DOG,” - -and which I began as follows:— - -“Well, some time ago, when I was drifting down the mighty Missouri, in -a little canoe, with two hired men, Bogard and Ba’tiste, (and in this -manner _did_ we glide along) amid all the pretty scenes and ugly, that -decked the banks of that river, from the mouth of the Yellow Stone, to -St. Louis, a distance of _only_ two thousand miles; Bogard and Ba’tiste -plied their paddles and I _steered_, amid snag and sand-bar—amongst -drift logs and herds of swimming buffaloes—our beds were uniformly on -the grass, or upon some barren beach, which we often chose, to avoid -the suffocating clouds of musquitoes; our fire was (by the way we had -none at night) kindled at sundown, under some towering bluff—our supper -cooked and eaten, and we off again, floating some four or five miles -after nightfall, when our canoe was landed at random, on some unknown -shore. In whispering silence and darkness our buffalo robes were drawn -out and spread upon the grass, and our bodies stretched upon them; our -pistols were belted to our sides, and our rifles always slept in our -arms. In this way we were encamped, and another robe drawn over us, -head and foot, under which our iron slumbers were secure from the tread -of all foes saving that of the sneaking gangs of wolves, who were -nightly serenading us with their harmonics, and often quarrelling for -the privilege of chewing off the corners of the robe, which served us -as a blanket. ‘Caleb’ (the grizzly bear) was often there too, leaving -the print of his deep impressed footsteps where he had perambulated, -reconnoitring, though not disturbing us. Our food was simply buffalo -meat from day to day, and from morning till night, for coffee and bread -we had not. The fleece (hump) of a fat cow, was the luxury of luxuries; -and for it we would step ashore, or as often level our rifles upon the -‘slickest’ of the herds from our canoe, as they were grazing upon the -banks. Sometimes the antelope, the mountain-sheep, and so the stately -elk contributed the choicest cuts for our little larder; and at others, -while in the vicinity of war-parties, where we dared not to fire our -guns, our boat, was silently steered into some little cove or eddy, our -hook and line dipped, and we trusted to the bite of a catfish for our -suppers: if we got him, he was sometimes too large and tough; and if we -got him not, we would swear, (not at all) and go to bed. - -“Our meals were generally cooked and eaten on piles of driftwood, where -our fire was easily kindled, and a peeled log (which we generally -straddled) did admirably well for a seat, and a table to eat from. - -“In this manner did we glide away from day to day, with anecdote and -fun to shorten the time, and just enough of the _spice of danger_ to -give vigour to our stomachs, and keenness to our appetites—making and -meeting accident and incident sufficient for a ‘book.’ Two hundred -miles from the mouth of Yellow Stone brought us to the village of the -kind and gentlemanly Mandans. With them I lived for some time—was -welcomed—taken gracefully by the arm, by their plumed dignitaries, -and feasted in their hospitable lodges. Much have I already said of -these people, and more of them, a great deal, I may say at a future -day; but now, to our ‘_story_.’ As _preamble_, however, having -launched our light canoe at the Mandan village, shook hands with the -chiefs and braves, and took the everlasting farewell glance at those -_models_, which I wept to turn from; we dipped our paddles, and were -again gliding off upon the mighty water, on our way to St. Louis. We -travelled fast, and just as the village of the Mandans, and the bold -promontory on which it stands, were changing to blue, and ‘dwindling -into nothing,’ we heard the startling yells, and saw in distance behind -us, the troop that was gaining upon us! their red shoulders were -bounding over the grassy bluffs—their hands extended, and robes waving -with signals for us to stop! In a few moments they were opposite to us -on the bank, and I steered my boat to the shore. They were arranged for -my reception, with amazement and orders imperative stamped on every -brow. ‘Mi-neek-e-sunk-te-ka’ (the mink), they exclaimed, ‘is dying! -the picture which you made of her is too much like her—you put so much -of her into it, that when your boat took it away from our village, it -drew a part of her life away with it—she is bleeding from her mouth—she -is puking up all her blood; by taking that away, you are drawing the -strings out of her heart, and they will soon break; we must take her -picture back, and then she will get well—your _medicine_ is great, it -is too great; but we wish you well.’ Mr. Kipp, their Trader, came with -the party, and interpreted as above. I unrolled my bundle of portraits, -and though I was unwilling to part with it (for she was a beautiful -girl), yet I placed it in their hands, telling them that I wished her -well; and I was exceedingly glad to get my boat peaceably under way -again, and into the current, having taken another and everlasting shake -of the hands. They rode back at full speed with the portrait; but -intelligence which I have since received from there, informs me that -the girl died; and that I am for ever to be considered as the cause of -her misfortunes. This is not _the_ ‘_story_,’ however, but I will tell -it as soon as I can come to it. We dropped off, and down the rolling -current again, from day to day, until at length the curling smoke of -the Riccarees announced their village in view before us! - -“We trembled and quaked, for all boats not stoutly armed, steal by them -in the dead of night. We muffled our paddles, and instantly dropped -under some willows, where we listened to the yelping, barking rabble, -until sable night had drawn her curtain around (though it was not -_sable_, for the moon arose, to our great mortification and alarm, in -full splendour and brightness), when, at eleven o’clock, we put out -to the middle of the stream—silenced our paddles, and trusted to the -current to waft us by them. We lay close in our boat with a pile of -green bushes over us, making us nothing in the world but a ‘floating -tree-top.’ On the bank, in front of the village, was enacting at -that moment, a scene of the most frightful and thrilling nature. An -hundred torches were swung about in all directions, giving us a full -view of the group that were assembled, and some fresh scalps were hung -on poles, and were then going through the nightly ceremony that is -performed about them for a certain number of nights, composed of the -frightful and appalling shrieks, and yells, and gesticulations of the -_scalp-dance_.[31] - -“In addition to this multitude of demons (as they looked), there -were some hundreds of cackling women and girls bathing in the river -on the edge of a sand-bar, at the lower end of the village; at which -place the stream drifted our small craft in, close to the shore, -till the moon lit their shoulders, their foreheads, chins, noses! -and they stood, half-merged, like mermaids, and gazed upon us! -singing ‘_Chee-na-see-nun, chee-na-see-nun ke-mon-shoo kee-ne-he-na, -ha-way-tah? shee-sha, shee-sha_;’ ‘How do you do, how do you do? where -are you going, old tree? Come here, come here.’ ‘_Lah-kee-hoon! lali -kee-hoon! natoh, catogh!_’ (‘A canoe, a canoe! see the paddle!!’) In -a moment the songs were stopped! the lights were out—the village in -an instant was in darkness, and dogs were muzzled! and nimbly did our -paddles ply the water, till spy-glass told us at morning’s dawn, that -the bank and boundless prairies of grass and green that were all around -us, were free from following footsteps of friend or foe. A sleepless -night had passed, and lightly tripped our bark, and swift, over the -swimming tide during _that_ day; which was one, not of pleasure, but -of trembling excitement; while our eyes were continually scanning the -distant scenes that were behind us, and our muscles throwing us forward -with tireless energy. * * * * * * * * * Night came upon us again, and -we landed at the foot of a towering bluff, where the musquitoes met us -with ten thousand kicks and cuffs, and importunities, until we were -choked and strangled into almost irrevocable despair and madness.[32] - -“A ‘_snaggy bend_’ announced its vicinity just below us by its roaring; -and hovering night told us, that we could not with safety ‘undertake -it.’ - -“The only direful alternative was now in full possession of us, (I am -not going to tell the ‘_story_’ _yet_), for just below us was a stately -bluff of 200 feet in height, rising out of the water, at an angle of -forty-five degrees, entirely denuded in front, and constituted of clay. -‘Montons, montons!’ said Ba’tiste, as he hastily clambered up its -steep inclined plane on his hands and feet, over its parched surface, -which had been dried in the sun, ‘essayez vous, essayez! ce’n’est pas -difficile Monsr. Cataline,’ exclaimed he, from an elevation of about -100 feet from the water, where he had found a level platform, of some -ten or fifteen feet in diameter, and stood at its brink, waving his -hand over the twilight landscape that lay in partial obscurity beneath -him. - -“‘Nous avons ici une belle place pour for to get some _slips_, some -_coot slips_, vare de dam Riccaree et de dam muskeet shall nevare get -si haut, by Gar! montez, montez en haut.’ - -“Bogard and I took our buffalo robes and our rifles, and with -difficulty hung and clung along in the crevices with fingers and -toes, until we reached the spot. We found ourselves about half-way -up the precipice, which continued almost perpendicular above us; and -within a few yards of us, on each side, it was one unbroken slope -from the bottom to the top. In this snug little nook were we most -appropriately fixed, as we thought, for a warm summer’s night, out of -the reach entirely of musquitoes, and all other earthly obstacles, as -we supposed, to the approaching gratification, for which the toils and -fatigues of the preceding day and night, had so admirably prepared -us. We spread one of our robes, and having ranged ourselves side by -side upon it, and drawn the other one over us, we commenced, without -further delay, upon the pleasurable forgetfulness of toils and dangers -which had agitated us for the past day and night. We had got just -about to that stage of our enjoyment which is almost resistless, and -nearly bidding defiance to every worldly obstrusive obstacle, when the -pattering of rain on our buffalo robes opened our eyes to the dismal -scene that was getting up about us! _My_ head was out, and on the -watch; but the other two skulls were flat upon the ground, and there -chained by the unyielding links of iron slumber. The blackest of all -clouds that ever swept hill tops of grass, of clay, or towering rock, -was hanging about us—its lightning’s glare was incessantly flashing us -to blindness; and the giddy elevation on which we were perched, seemed -to tremble with the roar and jar of distant, and the instant bolts -and cracks of present thunder! The rain poured and fell in torrents -(its not enough); it seemed _floating_ around and above us in waves -succeeding waves, which burst upon the sides of the immense avalanche -of clay that was above, and _slid_ in _sheets_, upon us! Heavens! what -a scene was here. The river beneath us and in distance, with windings -infinite, whitening into silver, and trees, to deathlike paleness, at -the lightning’s flash! All about us was drenched in rain and mud. At -this juncture, poor Ba’tiste was making an effort to raise his head and -shoulders—he was in agony! he had slept himself, and _slipt_ himself -partly from the robe, and his elbows were fastened in the mud. - -“‘Oh sacré, ’tis too bad by Gar! we can get some _slips_ nevare.’ - -“‘Ugh! (replied Yankee Bogard) we shall get ‘slips’ enough directly, by -darn, for we are all afloat, and shall go into the river by and by, in -the twinkling of a goat’s eye, if we don’t look out.’ - -“We were nearly afloat, sure enough, and our condition growing more -and more dreary every moment, and our only alternative was, to fold up -our nether robe and sit upon it; hanging the other one over our heads, -which formed a roof, and shielded the rain from us. To give compactness -to the _trio_, and bring us into such shape as would enable the robe to -protect us all, we were obliged to put our backs and occiputs together, -and keep our heads from nodding. In this way we were enabled to divide -equally the robe that we sat upon, as well as receive mutual benefit -from the one that was above us. We thus managed to protect ourselves in -the most important points, leaving our feet and legs (from necessity) -to the mercy of mud. - -“Thus we were re-encamped. ‘A pretty mess’ (said I), we look like -the ‘three graces;’—‘de tree grace, by Gar!’ said Ba’tiste. ‘Grace! -(whispered Bogard) yes, it’s all _grace_ here; and I believe we’ll all -be buried in _grace_ in less than an hour.’ - -“‘Monsr. Cataline! excusez my back, si vous plait. Bogard! comment, -comment?—bonne nuit, Messieurs. Oh! mon Dieu, mon Dieu! Je vous rends -grace—je vous prie pour for me sauver ce nuit—delivrez nous! delivrez -nous! Je vous adore, Saint Esprit—la Vierge Marie—oh je vous rends -grace! pour for de m’avoir conservé from de dam Riccree et de diable -muskeet. Eh bien! eh bien!’ - -“In this miserable and despairing mood poor Ba’tiste dropped off -gradually into a most tremendous sleep, whilst Bogard and I were -holding on to our corners of the robe—recounting over the dangers and -excitements of the day and night past, as well as other scenes of -our adventurous lives, whilst we laid (or rather sat) looking at the -lightning, with our eyes shut. Ba’tiste snored louder and louder, until -sleep had got her strongest grip upon him; and his specific gravity -became so great, that he pitched forward, pulling our corners of the -robe nearly off from our heads, reducing us to the necessity of drawing -upon them till we brought the back of his head in contact with ours, -again, and his body in an erect posture, when he suddenly exclaimed. - -“‘Bon jour, Monsr. Bogard: bon jour, Monsr. Cataline; n’est ce pas -morning, pretty near?’ - -“‘No, its about midnight.’ - -“‘Quel temps?’ - -“Why it rains as hard as ever. - -“‘Oh diable, I wish I was _tó hell_.’ - -“‘You may be there yet before morning, by darn.’ - -“‘Pardón! pardón, Monsr Bogard—I shall not go to night, not _to_ night, -I was joke—mais! dis is not joke, sùppose—oh vengeance! I am slip down -considerable—mais I shall not go to hell quite—I am slip off de seat!’ - -“‘What! you are sitting in the mud?’ - -“‘Oui, Bogard, in de muds! mais, I am content, my _head_ is not in -de mud. You see Bogard, I avait been sleep, et I raisee my head -pretty suddain, and keepee my e back e straight, et I am slip off -of de seat. Now, Monsr. Bogard you shall keepee you head straight -and moove————————leet, at de bottom?————————remercie, Bogard, -remercie,————eh bien,——————ah well——————————ha—ha—h——a—by Gar, Bogard, -I have a de good joke. Monsr. Cataline will paintez my likeeness as -I am now look—he will paint us all—I am tink he will make putty coot -view? ha-ha-ha-a——we should see very putty landeescape aboutee de legs, -ha? Ha——ha——h————a——a.’ - -“Oh, Ba’tiste, for Heaven’s sake stop your laughing and go to sleep; -we’ll talk and laugh about this all day to-morrow. - -“‘Pardón, Monsr. Cataline, (excusez) have you got some slips?’ - -“No, Ba’tiste, I have not been asleep. Bogard has been entertaining me -these two hours whilst you was asleep, with a description of a buffalo -hunt, which took place at the mouth of Yellow Stone, about a year ago. -It must have been altogether a most splendid and thrilling scene, and I -have been paying the strictest attention to it, for I intend to write -it down and send it to New York for the cits to read.” - -“‘I like’e dat much, Monsr. Cataline, and I shall take much plaisir -pout vous donner to give déscript of someting, provide you will write -him down, ha?’ - -“Well Ba’tiste, go on, I am endeavouring to learn everything that’s -curious and entertaining, belonging to this country. - -“‘Well Monsr. Cataline, I shall tell you someting very much entertain, -mais, but, you will nevare tell somebody how we have been fix to night? -ha?’ - -“No, Ba’tiste, most assuredly I shall never mention it nor make -painting of it. - -“‘Well, je commence,—diable Bogard! you shall keep your back straight -you must sit up, ou il n’est pas possibe for to keep de robe ovare -all. Je commence, Mons. Cataline, to describe some _Dog Feast_, which -I attend among de dam Pieds noirs. I shall describe some grande, -magnifique ceremonay, and you will write him down?’ - -“Yes, I’ll put it on paper. - -“‘Pardón, pardón, I am get most to slip, I shall tell him to-morrow, -pérhaps I shall————eh bien;—but you will nevare tell how we look, ha! -Monsr. Cataline?’ - -“No Ba’tiste, I’ll never mention it. - -“‘Eh bien————bon nuit.’ - -“In this condition we sat, and in this manner we nodded away the night, -as far as I recollect of it, catching the broken bits of sleep, (that -were even painful to us when we got them), until the morning’s rays -at length gave us a view of the scene that was around us!! Oh, all ye -brick-makers, ye plasterers, and soft-soap manufacturers! put all your -imaginations in a ferment together, and see if ye can invent a scene -like this! Here _was_ a ‘fix’ to be sure. The sun arose in splendour -and in full, upon this everlasting and boundless scene of ‘_saft -soap_’ and grease, which admitted us not to move. The whole hill was -constituted entirely of tough clay, and on each side and above us there -was no possibility of escape; and one single step over the brink of the -place where we had ascended, would inevitably have launched us into -the river below, the distance of an hundred feet! Here, looking like -hogs just risen from a mud puddle, or a buffalo bull in his wallow, -we sat, (_and had to sit_,) admiring the wide-spread and beautiful -landscape that lay steeping and smoking before us, and our little boat, -that looked like a nutshell beneath us, hanging at the shore; telling -stories and filling up the while with nonsensical garrulity, until -the sun’s warming rays had licked up the mud, and its dried surface, -about eleven o’clock, gave us foothold, when we cautiously, but safely -descended to the bottom; and then, at the last jump, which brought his -feet to _terra firma_, Ba’tiste exclaimed, ‘Well, we have cheatee de -dam muskeet, ha!’” - -And this, reader, is not ‘_the story_,’ but one of the little incidents -which stood exactly in the way, and could not well be got over without -a slight notice, being absolutely necessary, as a key, or kind of -glossary, for the proper understanding of the tale that is to be told. -There is _blood_ and _butchery_ in the story that is now to be related; -and it should be read by every one who would form a correct notion of -the force of Indian superstitions. - -Three mighty warriors, proud and valiant, licked the dust, and all in -consequence of one of the portraits I painted; and as my brush was the -prime mover of all these misfortunes, and my life was sought to heal -the wound, I must be supposed to be knowing to and familiar with the -whole circumstances, which were as—(I was going to say, as follow) but -my want of time and your want of patience, compel me to break off here, -and I promise to go right on with _the story of the Dog_ in my next -Letter, and I advise the reader not to neglect or overlook it. - - [23] This very distinguished old chief, I have learned, died a few - weeks after I painted his portrait. - - - [24] The reader and traveller who may have this book with him, - should follow the Côteau a few miles to the North of the Quarry, - for the highest elevation and greatest sublimity of view. - - - [25] I have in former epistles, several times spoken of the red - pipes of the Indians which are found in almost every tribe of - Indians on the Continent; and in every instance have, I venture - to say, been brought from the Côteau des Prairies, inasmuch as no - tribe of Indians that I have yet visited, have ever apprized me - of any other source than this; and the stone from which they are - all manufactured, is of the same character exactly, and different - from any known mineral compound ever yet discovered in any part - of Europe, or other parts of the American Continent. This may be - thought a broad assertion—yet it is one I have ventured to make - (and one I should have had no motive for making, except for the - purpose of eliciting information, if there be any, on a subject - so curious and so exceedingly interesting). In my +Indian Museum+ - there can always be seen a great many beautiful specimens of this - mineral selected on the spot, by myself, embracing all of its - numerous varieties; and I challenge the world to produce anything - like it, except it be from the same locality. In a following Letter - will be found a further account of it, and its chemical analysis. - - - [26] I am aware that this interesting fact may be opposed by - subsequent travellers, who will find nobody but the Sioux upon - this ground, who now claim exclusive right to it; and for the - satisfaction of those who doubt, I refer them to Lewis and Clark’s - Tour thirty-three years since, before the influence of Traders - had deranged the system and truth of things, in these regions. I - have often conversed with General Clark, of St. Louis, on this - subject, and he told me explicitly, and authorized me to say it to - the world, that every tribe on the Missouri told him they had been - to this place, and that the Great Spirit kept the peace amongst - his red children on that ground, where they had smoked with their - enemies. - - - [27] The medicine (or leaping) rock is a part of the precipice - which has become severed from the main part, standing about seven - or eight feet from the wall, just equal in height, and about seven - feet in diameter. - - It stands like an immense column of thirty-five feet high, and - highly polished on its top and sides. It requires a daring effort - to leap on to its top from the main wall, and back again, and many - a heart has sighed for the honour of the feat without daring to - make the attempt. Some few have tried it with success, and left - their arrows standing in its crevice, several of which are seen - there at this time; others have leapt the chasm and fallen from - the slippery surface on which they could not hold, and suffered - instant death upon the craggy rocks below. Every young man in - the nation is ambitious to perform this feat; and those who have - successfully done it are allowed to boast of it all their lives. - In the sketch already exhibited, there will be seen, a view of the - “leaping rock;” and in the middle of the picture, a mound, of a - conical form, of ten feet height, which was erected over the body - of a distinguished young man who was killed by making this daring - effort, about two years before I was there, and whose sad fate was - related to me by a Sioux chief, who was father of the young man, - and was visiting the Red Pipe Stone Quarry, with thirty others of - his tribe, when we were there, and cried over the grave, as he - related the story to Mr. Wood and myself, of his son’s death. - - - [28] On my return from the Pipe Stone Quarry, one of the old chiefs - of the Sacs, on seeing some specimens of the stone which I brought - with me from that place, observed as follows:— - - “My friend, when I was young, I used to go with our young men to - the mountain of the Red Pipe, and dig out pieces for our pipes. - We do not go now; and our red pipes as you see, are few. The - Dah-co-tah’s have spilled the blood of red men on that place, and - the Great Spirit is offended. The white traders have told them to - draw their bows upon us when we go there; and they have offered us - many of the pipes for sale, but we do not want to smoke them, for - we know that the Great Spirit is offended. My mark is on the rocks - in many places, but I shall never see them again. They lie where - the Great Spirit sees them, for his eye is over that place, and he - sees everything that is here.” - - Ke-o-kuck chief of the Sacs and Foxes, when I asked him whether he - had ever been there, replied— - - “No, I have never seen it; it is in our enemies’ country,—I wish it - was in ours—I would sell it to the whites for a great many boxes of - money.” - - - [29] Many and strong are the recollections of the Sioux and - other tribes, of their alliance with the British in the last and - revolutionary wars, of which I have met many curious instances, - one of which was correctly reported in the London Globe, from my - Lectures, and I here insert it.— - - THE GLOBE AND TRAVELLER. - - “_Indian Knowledge of English Affairs_—Mr. Catlin, in one of his - Lectures on the manners and customs of the North American Indians, - during the last week, related a very curious occurrence, which - excited a great deal of surprise and some considerable mirth - amongst his highly respectable and numerous audience. Whilst - speaking of the great and warlike tribe of Sioux or Dahcotas, of - 40,000 or 50,000, he stated that many of this tribe, as well as of - several others, although living entirely in the territory of the - United States, and several hundred miles south of her Majesty’s - possessions, were found cherishing a lasting friendship for the - English, whom they denominate Saganosh. And in very many instances - they are to be seen wearing about their necks large silver medals, - with the portrait of George III. in bold relief upon them. These - medals were given to them as badges of merit during the last war - with the United States, when these warriors were employed in the - British service. - - “The Lecturer said, that whenever the word Saganosh was used, - it seemed to rouse them at once; that on several occasions when - Englishmen had been in his company as fellow-travellers, they had - marked attentions paid them by these Indians as Saganoshes. And on - one occasion, in one of his last rambles in that country, where - he had painted several portraits in a small village of Dahcotas, - the chief of the band positively refused to sit; alleging as his - objection that the pale faces, who were not to be trusted, might - do some injury to his portrait, and his health or his life might - be affected by it. The painter, as he was about to saddle his - horse for his departure, told the Indian that he was a Saganosh, - and was going across the Big Salt Lake, and was very sorry that - he could not carry the picture of so distinguished a man. At this - intelligence the Indian advanced, and after a hearty grip of the - hand, very carefully and deliberately withdrew from his bosom, and - next to his naked breast, a large silver medal, and turning his - face to the painter, pronounced with great vehemence and emphasis - the word Sag-a-nosh! The artist, supposing that he had thus gained - his point with the Indian Sagamore, was making preparation to - proceed with his work, when the Indian still firmly denied him - the privilege—holding up the face of his Majesty (which had got a - superlative brightness by having been worn for years against his - naked breast), he made this singular and significant speech:—‘When - you cross the Big Salt Lake, tell my Great Father that you saw his - face, and it was bright!’ To this the painter replied, ‘I can never - see your Great Father, he is dead!’ The poor Indian recoiled in - silence, and returned his medal to his bosom, entered his wigwam, - at a few paces distant, where he seated himself amidst his family - around his fire, and deliberately lighting his pipe, passed it - around in silence. - - “When it was smoked out he told them the news he had heard, and in - a few moments returned to the traveller again, who was preparing - with his party to mount their horses, and enquired whether the - Saganoshes had no chief. The artist replied in the affirmative, - saying that the present chief of the Saganoshes is a _young_ and - _very beautiful woman_. The Sagamore expressed great surprise and - some incredulity at this unaccountable information; and being - fully assured by the companions of the artist that his assertion - was true, the Indian returned again quite hastily to his wigwam, - called his own and the neighbouring families into his presence, lit - and smoked another pipe, and then communicated the intelligence - to them, to their great surprise and amusement; after which he - walked out to the party about to start off, and advancing to the - painter (or Great Medicine as they called him), with a sarcastic - smile on his face, in due form, and with much grace and effect, he - carefully withdrew again from his bosom the polished silver medal, - and turning the face to the painter, said, ‘Tell my _Great Mother_, - that you saw our Great Father, and that we keep his face bright!’” - - - [30] This gentleman, the summer previous to this, while I was - in company with him at Prairie du Chien, gave me a very graphic - account of the Red Pipe Stone Quarry, and made for me, from - recollection, a chart of it, which I yet possess, and which was - drawn with great accuracy. - - - [31] But a few weeks before I left the mouth of Yellow Stone, the - news arrived at that place, that a party of trappers and traders - had burnt two Riccarees to death, on the prairies, and M‘Kenzie - advised me not to stop at the Riccarree village, but to pass them - in the night; and after I had got some hundreds of miles below - them, I learned that they were dancing two white men’s scalps taken - in revenge for that inhuman act. - - - [32] The greater part of the world can never, I am sure, justly - appreciate the meaning and application of the above sentence, - unless they have an opportunity to encounter a swarm of these - tormenting insects, on the banks of the Missouri or Mississippi - river. - - - - - LETTER—No. 55. - - RED PIPE STONE QUARRY, _CÔTEAU DES PRAIRIES_. - - -Well, to proceed with the _Story of the Dog_, which I promised; (after -which I shall record the tale of _Wi-jun-jon_, the pigeon’s egg head), -which was also told by me during the last night, before we retired to -rest. - -“I think I said that my little canoe had brought us down the Missouri, -about eight hundred miles below the mouth of Yellow Stone, when we -landed at Laidlaw’s Trading-house, which is twelve hundred miles above -civilization and the city of St. Louis. If I did _not_ say it, it is no -matter, for it was even so; and ‘Ba’tiste and Bogard who had paddled, -and I who had steered,’ threw our little bark out upon the bank, and -taking our paddles in our hands, and our ‘_plunder_’ upon our backs, -crossed the plain to the American Fur Company’s Fort, in charge of Mr. -Laidlaw, who gave us a hearty welcome; and placed us in an instant -at his table, which happened at that moment to be stationed in the -middle of the floor, distributing to its surrounding guests the simple -blessings which belong to that fair and silent land of buffalo-tongues -and beavers’ tails! A bottle of good Madeira wine sprung (à l’instant) -upon the corner of the table, before us, and _swore, point blank_, to -the welcome that was expressed in every feature of our host. After -the usual salutations, the news, and a glass of wine, Mr. Laidlaw -began thus;—“Well, my friend, you have got along well, so far; and -I am glad to see you. You have seen a great many fine Indians since -you left here, and have, no doubt, procured many interesting and -valuable _portraits_; but there has been a deal of trouble about the -‘_pictures_,’ in this neighbourhood, since you went away. Of course, -you have heard nothing of it at the Yellow Stone; but amongst us, I -assure you, there has not a day passed since you left, without some -fuss or excitement about the portraits. The ‘Dog’ is not yet dead, -though he has been shot at several times, and had his left arm broken. -The ‘Little _Bear’s_’ friends have overtaken the brother of the Dog, -that fine fellow whom you painted, and killed him! They are now -sensible that they have sacrificed one of the best men in the nation, -for one of the greatest rascals; and they are more desperately bent on -revenge than ever. They have made frequent enquiries for you, knowing -that you had gone up the river; alleging that you had been the cause of -these deaths, and that if the Dog could not be found, they should look -to you for a settlement of that unfortunate affair! - -“‘That unlucky business, taken altogether, has been the greatest piece -of _medicine_ (mystery), and created the greatest excitement amongst -the Sioux, of anything that has happened since I came into the country. -My dear Sir, you must not continue your voyage down the river, in -your unprotected condition. A large party of the ‘Little Bear’s’ band, -are now encamped on the river below, and for you to stop there (which -you might be obliged to do), would be to endanger your life.’” * * * -Reader, sit still, and let me change ends with my story, (which is done -in one moment,) and then, from a relation of the circumstances which -elicited the friendly advice and caution of Mr. Laidlaw just mentioned, -you will be better enabled to understand the nature of the bloody -affair which I am undertaking to relate. - -“About four months previous to the moment I am now speaking of, I had -passed up the Missouri river by this place, on the steam-boat Yellow -Stone, on which I ascended the Missouri to the mouth of Yellow Stone -river. While going up, this boat, having on board the United States -Indian agent, Major Sanford—Messrs. Pierre, Chouteau, McKenzie of -the American Fur Company, and myself, as passengers, stopped at this -trading-post, and remained several weeks; where were assembled six -hundred families of Sioux Indians, their tents being pitched in close -order on an extensive prairie on the bank of the river. - -“This trading-post, in charge of Mr. Laidlaw, is the concentrating -place, and principal trading depôt, for this powerful tribe, who -number, when all taken together, something like forty or fifty -thousand. On this occasion, five or six thousand had assembled to -see the steam-boat and meet the Indian agent, which, and whom they -knew were to arrive about this time. During the few weeks that we -remained there, I was busily engaged painting my portraits, for -here were assembled the principal chiefs and _medicine-men_ of the -nation. To these people, the operations of my brush were entirely new -and unaccountable, and excited amongst them the greatest curiosity -imaginable. Every thing else (even the steam-boat) was abandoned -for the pleasure of crowding into my painting-room, and witnessing -the result of each fellow’s success, as he came out from under the -operation of my brush. - -“They had been at first much afraid of the consequences that might flow -from so strange and unaccountable an operation; but having been made to -understand my views, they began to look upon it as a great _honour_, -and afforded me the opportunities that I desired; exhibiting the utmost -degree of vanity for their appearance, both as to features and dress. -The consequence was, that my room was filled with the chiefs who sat -around, arranged according to the rank or grade which they held in -the estimation of their tribe; and in this order it became necessary -for me to paint them, to the exclusion of those who never signalized -themselves, and were without any distinguishing character in society. - -“The first man on the list, was _Ha-wan-ghee-ta_ (one horn), head chief -of the nation, of whom I have heretofore spoken; and after him the -subordinate chiefs, or chiefs of bands, according to the estimation in -which they were held by the chief and the tribe. My models were thus -_placed_ before me, whether ugly or beautiful, all the same, and I -saw at once there was to be trouble somewhere, as I could not paint -them all. The medicine-men or high priests, who are esteemed by many -the oracles of the nation, and the most important men in it—becoming -jealous, commenced their harangues, outside of the lodge, telling them -that they were all fools—that those who were painted would soon die in -consequence; and that these pictures, which had life to a considerable -degree in them, would live in the hands of white men after they were -dead, and make them sleepless and endless trouble. - -“Those whom I had painted, though evidently somewhat alarmed, were -unwilling to acknowledge it, and those whom I had not painted, -unwilling to be outdone in courage, allowed me the privilege; braving -and defying the danger that they were evidently more or less in dread -of. Feuds began to arise too, among some of the chiefs of the different -bands, who (not unlike some instances amongst the chiefs and warriors -of our own country), had looked upon their rival chiefs with unsleeping -jealousy, until it had grown into disrespect and enmity. An instance of -this kind presented itself at this critical juncture, in this assembly -of inflammable spirits, which changed in a moment, its features, from -the free and jocular garrulity of an Indian levee, to the frightful -yells and agitated treads and starts of an Indian battle! I had in -progress at this time a portrait of _Mah-to-tchee-ga_ (little bear); -of the _Onc-pa-pa band_, a noble fine fellow, who was sitting before -me as I was painting (+plate+ 273). I was painting almost a profile -view of his face, throwing a part of it into shadow, and had it nearly -finished, when an Indian by the name of _Shon-ka_ (the dog), chief -of the _Caz-a-zshee-ta_ band (+plate+ 275); an ill-natured and surly -man—despised by the chiefs of every other band, entered the wigwam in -a sullen mood, and seated himself on the floor in front of my sitter, -where he could have a full view of the picture in its operation. After -sitting a while with his arms folded, and his lips stiffly arched with -contempt; he sneeringly spoke thus:— - -‘_Mah-to-tchee-ga_ is but _half a man_.’ * * * * * * “Dead silence -ensued for a moment, and nought was in motion save the eyes of the -chiefs, who were seated around the room, and darting their glances -about upon each other in listless anxiety to hear the sequel that was -to follow! During this interval, the eyes of Mah-to-tchee-ga had not -moved—his lips became slightly curved, and he pleasantly asked, in low -and steady accent, ‘Who says that?’ ‘_Shon-ka_ says it,’ was the reply; -‘and _Shon-ka_ can prove it.’ At this the eyes of Mah-to-tchee-ga, -which had not yet moved, began steadily to turn, and slow, as if upon -pivots, and when they were rolled out of their sockets till they had -fixed upon the object of their contempt; his dark and jutting brows -were shoving down in trembling contention, with the blazing rays that -were actually _burning_ with contempt, the object that was before them. -‘_Why_ does Shon-ka say it?’ - -“‘Ask _We-chash-a-wa-kon_ (the painter), he can tell you; he knows you -are but _half a man_—he has painted but one half of your face, and -knows the other half is good for nothing!’ - -[Illustration: 273] - -[Illustration: 274] - -[Illustration: 275] - -“‘Let the _painter_ say it, and I will believe it; but when the Dog -says it let him _prove_ it.’ - -“‘_Shon-ka_ said it, and _Shon-ka_ can prove it; if _Mah-to-tchee-ga_ -be a man, and wants to be honoured by the white men, let him not be -ashamed; but let him do as _Shon-ka_ has done, give the white man a -horse, and then let him see the _whole of your face_ without being -ashamed.’ - -“‘When _Mah-to-tchee-ga_ kills a white man and _steals_ his horses, he -may be ashamed to look at a white man until he brings him a horse! When -_Mah-to-tchee-ga_ waylays and murders an honourable and a brave Sioux, -because he is a coward and not brave enough to meet him in fair combat, -_then_ he may be ashamed to look at a white man till he has given him a -horse! _Mah-to-tchee-ga_ can look at any one; and he is now looking at -an _old woman_ and a _coward_!’ - -“This repartee, which had lasted for a few minutes, to the amusement -and excitement of the chiefs, being ended thus:—The Dog rose suddenly -from the ground, and wrapping himself in his robe, left the wigwam, -considerably agitated, having the laugh of all the chiefs upon him. - -“The Little Bear had followed him with his piercing eyes until he left -the door, and then pleasantly and unmoved, resumed his position, where -he sat a few minutes longer, until the portrait was completed. He then -rose, and in the most graceful and gentlemanly manner, presented to me -a very beautiful shirt of buckskin, richly garnished with quills of -the porcupine, fringed with scalp-locks (honourable memorials) from -his enemies’ heads, and painted, with all his battles emblazoned on -it. He then left my wigwam, and a few steps brought him to the door -of his own, where the Dog intercepted him, and asked, ‘What meant -_Mah-to-tchee-ga_ by the last words that he spoke to _Shon-ka_?’ -‘_Mah-to-tchee-ga_ said it, and _Shon-ka_ is not a fool—that is -enough.’ At this the Dog walked violently to his own lodge; and the -Little Bear retreated into his, both knowing from looks and gestures -what was about to be the consequence of their altercation. - -“The Little Bear instantly charged his gun, and then (as their custom -is) threw himself upon his face, in humble supplication to the Great -Spirit for his aid and protection. His wife, in the meantime, seeing -him agitated, and fearing some evil consequences, without knowing -anything of the preliminaries, secretly withdrew the bullet from his -gun, and told him not of it. - -“The Dog’s voice, at this moment, was heard, and recognized at the door -of Mah-to-tchee-ga’s lodge,—‘If Mah-to-tchee-ga be a _whole_ man, let -him come out and prove it; it is _Shon-ka_ that calls him!’ - -“His wife screamed; but it was too late. The gun was in his hand, and -he sprang out of the door—both drew and simultaneously fired! The Dog -fled uninjured; but the Little Bear lay weltering in his blood (strange -to say!) with all that side of his face entirely shot away, which had -been left out of the picture; and, according to the prediction of the -Dog, ‘_good for nothing_;’ carrying away one half of the jaws, and -the flesh from the nostrils and corner of the mouth, to the ear, -including one eye, and leaving the jugular vein entirely exposed. Here -was a ‘coup;’ and anyone accustomed to the thrilling excitement that -such scenes produce in an Indian village, can form _some_ idea of the -frightful agitation amidst several thousand Indians, who were divided -into jealous bands or clans, under ambitious and rival chiefs! In one -minute, a thousand guns and bows were seized! A thousand thrilling -yells were raised; and many were the fierce and darting warriors who -sallied round the Dog for his protection—he fled amidst a shower of -bullets and arrows; but his braves were about him! The blood of the -_Onc-pa-pas_ was roused, and the indignant braves of that gallant band -rushed forth from all quarters, and, swift upon their heels, were hot -for vengeance! On the plain, and in full view of us, for some time, the -whizzing arrows flew, and so did bullets, until the Dog and his brave -followers were lost in distance on the prairie! In this rencontre, the -Dog had his left arm broken; but succeeded, at length, in making his -escape. - -“On the next day after this affair took place, the Little Bear died of -his wound, and was buried amidst the most pitiful and heart-rending -cries of his distracted wife, whose grief was inconsolable at the -thought of having been herself the immediate and innocent cause of his -death, by depriving him of his supposed protection. - -“This marvellous and fatal transaction was soon talked through the -village, and the eyes of all this superstitious multitude were fixed -upon me as the cause of the calamity—my paintings and brushes were -instantly packed, and all hands, both Traders and Travellers, assumed -at once a posture of defence. - -“I evaded, no doubt, in a great measure, the concentration of their -immediate censure upon me, by expressions of great condolence, and -by distributing liberal presents to the wife and relations of the -deceased; and by uniting also with Mr. Laidlaw and the other gentlemen, -in giving him honourable burial, where we placed over his grave a -handsome Sioux lodge, and hung a white flag to wave over it. - -“On this occasion, many were the tears that were shed for the brave -and honourable Mah-to-tchee-ga, and all the warriors of his band swore -sleepless vengeance on the Dog, until his life should answer for the -loss of their chief and leader. - -“On the day that he was buried, I started for the mouth of Yellow -Stone, and while I was gone, the spirit of vengeance had pervaded -nearly all the Sioux country in search of the Dog, who had evaded -pursuit. His brother, however (+plate+ 274), a noble and honourable -fellow, esteemed by all who knew him, fell in their way in an unlucky -hour, when their thirst for vengeance was irresistible, and they -slew him. Repentance deep, and grief were the result of so rash an -act, when they beheld a brave and worthy man fall for so worthless a -character; and as they became exasperated, the spirit of revenge grew -more desperate than ever, and they swore they never would lay down -their arms or embrace their wives and children until vengeance, full -and complete, should light upon the head that deserved it. This brings -us again to the first part of my story, and in this state were things -in that part of the country, when I was descending the river, four -months afterwards, and landed my canoe as I before stated, at Laidlaw’s -trading-house. - -“The excitement had been kept up all summer amongst these people, and -their superstitions bloated to the full brim, from circumstances so -well calculated to feed and increase them. Many of them looked to me at -once as the author of all these disasters, considering I knew that one -half of the man’s face was _good for nothing_, or that I would not have -left it out of the picture, and that I must therefore have foreknown -the evils that were to flow from the omission; they consequently -resolved that I was a dangerous man, and should suffer for my temerity -in case the Dog could not be found. Councils had been held, and in all -the solemnity of Indian _medicine_ and _mystery_, I had been doomed to -die! At one of these, a young warrior of the _Onc-pa-pa_ band, arose -and said, ‘The blood of two chiefs has just sunk into the ground, and -an hundred bows are bent which are ready to shed more! on whom shall -we bend them? I am a friend to the white men, but here is one whose -medicine is too great—he is a great _medicine-man_! his _medicine_ is -too great! he was the death of Mah-to-tchee-ga! he made only one side -of his face! he would not make the other—the side that he made was -alive; the other was dead, and Shon-ka shot it off! How is this? Who is -to die.’ - -“After him, _Tah-zee-kee-da-cha_ (torn belly), of the _Yankton_ band, -arose and said—‘Father, this medicine-man has done much harm! You told -our chiefs and warriors, that they must be painted—you said he was a -good man, and we believed you!—you thought so, my father, but you see -what he has done!—he looks at our chiefs and our women and then makes -them alive!! In this way he has taken our chiefs away, and he can -trouble their spirits when they are dead!—they will be unhappy. If he -can make them alive by looking at them, he can do us much harm!—you -tell us that they are not alive—we see their eyes move!—their eyes -follow us wherever we go, that is enough! I have no more to say!’ After -him, rose a young man of the Onc-pa-pa band ‘Father! you know that I am -the brother of _Mah-to-tchee-ga_!—-you know that I loved him—both sides -of his face were good, and the medicine-man knew it also! Why was half -of his face left out? He never was ashamed, but always looked white man -in the face! Why was that side of his face shot off? Your friend is not -our friend, and has forfeited his life—we want you to tell us where he -is—we want to see him!’ - -“Then rose Toh-ki-e-to (a _medicine-man_ of the Yankton band, and -principal orator of the nation.) ‘My friend, these are young men that -speak—I am not afraid! your white medicine-man painted my picture, and -it was good—I am glad of it—I am very glad to see that I shall live -after I am dead!—I am old and not afraid!—some of our young men are -foolish I know that this man _put many of our buffaloes in his book_! -for I was with him, and we have had no buffaloes since to eat, it is -true—but I am not afraid!! _his medicine_ is great and I wish him -well—we are friends!’ - -“In this wise was the subject discussed by these superstitious -people during my absence, and such were the reasons given by my -friend Mr. Laidlaw, for his friendly advice; wherein he cautioned me -against exposing my life in their hands, advising me to take some -other route than that which I was pursuing down the river, where I -would find encamped at the mouth of Cabri river, eighty miles below, -several hundred Indians belonging to the Little Bear’s band, and I -might possibly fall a victim to their unsatiated revenge. I resumed -my downward voyage in a few days, however, with my little canoe, -which ‘Ba’tiste and Bogard paddled and I steered,’ and passed their -encampment in peace, by taking the opposite shore. The usual friendly -invitation however, was given (which is customary on that river), by -skipping several rifle bullets across the river, a rod or two ahead -of us. To those invitations we paid no attention, and (not suspecting -who we were), they allowed us to pursue our course in peace and -security. Thus rested the affair of the Dog and its consequences, until -I conversed with Major Bean, the agent for these people, who arrived -in St. Louis some weeks after I did, bringing later intelligence from -them, assuring me that ‘_the Dog had at length been overtaken and -killed_, near the Black-hills, and that the affair might now for ever -be considered as settled.’” - -Thus happened, and thus terminated the affair of “the Dog,” wherein -have fallen three distinguished warriors; and wherein _might_ have -fallen one “_great medicine-man_!” and all in consequence of the -operations of my brush. The portraits of the three first named will -long hang in my Gallery for the world to gaze upon; and the head of the -latter (whose hair yet remains on it), may probably be seen (for a time -yet) occasionally stalking about in the midst of this Collection of -Nature’s dignitaries. - -The circumstances above detailed, are as correctly given as I could -furnish them! and they have doubtless given birth to one of the most -wonderful traditions, which will be told and sung amongst the Sioux -Indians from age to age; furnishing one of the rarest instances, -perhaps, on record, of the extent to which these people may be carried -by the force of their superstitions. - -After I had related this curious and unfortunate affair, I was called -upon to proceed at once with the - - - +STORY OF WI-JUN-JON (the pigeon’s egg head);+ - -and I recited it as I first told it to poor Ba’tiste, on a former -occasion, which was as follows:— - -“Well, Ba’tiste, I promised last night, as you were going to sleep, -that I would tell you a story this morning—did I not? - -“Oui, Monsieur, oui—de ‘Pigeon’s Head.’ - -“No, Ba’tiste, the ‘Pigeon’s Egg Head.’ - -“‘Well den, Monsieur Cataline, de ‘Pigeon Egg’s Head.’ - -“No, Ba’tiste, you have it wrong yet. The Pigeon’s Egg Head. - -“‘Sacré—well, ‘_Pee—jonse—ec—head_.’ - -“Right, Ba’tiste. Now you shall hear the ‘Story of the Pigeon’s Egg -Head.’ - -“The Indian name of this man (being its literal translation into the -Assinneboin language) was Wi-jun-jon. - -“‘Wat! comment! by Gar (pardón); not _Wi-jun-jon_, le frere de ma douce -_Wee-ne-on-ka_, fils du chef Assinneboin? But excusez; go on, s’il vous -plait.’ - -“_Wi-jun-jon_ (the Pigeon’s Egg Head) was a brave and a warrior of the -Assinneboins—young—proud—handsome—valiant, and graceful. He had fought -many a battle, and won many a laurel. The numerous scalps from his -enemies’ heads adorned his dress, and his claims were fair and just for -the highest honours that his country could bestow upon him; for his -father was chief of the nation. - -“Le meme! de same—mon frere—mon ami! Bien, I am composé; go on, -Monsieur.’ - -“Well, this young Assinneboin, the ‘Pigeon’s Egg Head,’ was selected by -Major Sanford, the Indian Agent, to represent his tribe in a delegation -which visited Washington city under his charge in the winter of 1832. -With this gentleman, the Assinneboin, together with representatives -from several others of those North Western tribes, descended the -Missouri river, several thousand miles, on their way to Washington. - -“While descending the river in a Mackinaw boat, from the mouth of -Yellow Stone, Wi-jun-jon and another of his tribe who was with him, at -the first approach to the civilized settlements, commenced a register -of the white men’s houses (or cabins), by cutting a notch for each on -the side of a pipe-stem, in order to be able to shew when they got -home, how many white men’s houses they saw on their journey. At first -the cabins were scarce; but continually as they advanced down the -river, more and more rapidly increased in numbers; and they soon found -their pipe-stem filled with marks, and they determined to put the rest -of them on the handle of a war-club, which they soon got marked all -over likewise; and at length, while the boat was moored at the shore -for the purpose of cooking the dinner of the party, _Wi-jun-jon_ and -his companion stepped into the bushes, and cut a long stick, from which -they peeled the bark; and when the boat was again underweigh, they -sat down, and with much labour, copied the notches on to it from the -pipe-stem and club; and also kept adding a notch for every house they -passed. This stick was soon filled; and in a day or two several others; -when, at last, they seemed much at a loss to know what to do with their -troublesome records, until they came in sight of St. Louis, which is a -town of 15,000 inhabitants; upon which, after consulting a little, they -pitched their sticks overboard into the river! - -I was at St. Louis at the time of their arrival, and painted their -portraits while they rested in that place. _Wi-jun-jon_ was the first, -who reluctantly yielded to the solicitations of the Indian agent and -myself, and appeared as sullen as death in my painting-room—with eyes -fixed like those of a statue, upon me, though his pride had plumed -and tinted him in all the freshness and brilliancy of an Indian’s -toilet. In his nature’s uncowering pride he stood a perfect model; but -superstition had hung a lingering curve upon his lip, and pride had -stiffened it into contempt. He had been urged into a measure, against -which his fears had pleaded; yet he stood unmoved and unflinching amid -the struggles of mysteries that were hovering about him, foreboding -ills of every kind, and misfortunes that were to happen to him in -consequence of this operation. - -“He was dressed in his native costume, which was classic and -exceedingly beautiful (+plate+ 271); his leggings and shirt were of the -mountain-goat skin, richly garnished with quills of the porcupine, and -fringed with locks of scalps, taken from his enemies’ heads. Over these -floated his long hair in plaits, that fell nearly to the ground; his -head was decked with the war-eagle’s plumes—his robe was of the skin -of the young buffalo bull, richly garnished and emblazoned with the -battles of his life; his quiver and bow were slung, and his shield, of -the skin of the bull’s neck. - -“I painted him in this beautiful dress, and so also the others who were -with him; and after I had done, Major Sanford went on to Washington -with them, where they spent the winter. - -“_Wi-jun-jon_ was the foremost on all occasions—the first to enter the -levee—the first to shake the President’s hand, and make his speech -to him—the last to extend the hand to them, but the first to catch -the smiles and admiration of the gentler sex. He travelled the giddy -maze, and beheld amid the buzzing din of civil life, their tricks of -art, their handiworks, and their finery; he visited their principal -cities—he saw their forts, their ships, their great guns, steamboats, -balloons, &c. &c.; and in the spring returned to St. Louis, where I -joined him and his companions on their way back to their own country. - -“Through the politeness of Mr. Chouteau, of the American Fur Company, I -was admitted (the only passenger except Major Sanford and his Indians) -to a passage in their steamboat, on her first trip to the Yellow Stone; -and when I had embarked, and the boat was about to depart, _Wi-jun-jon_ -made his appearance on deck, in a full suit of regimentals! He had in -Washington exchanged his beautifully garnished and classic costume, -for a full dress ‘en militaire’ (see +plate+ 272). It was, perhaps, -presented to him by the President. It was broadcloth, of the finest -blue, trimmed with lace of gold; on his shoulders were mounted two -immense epaulettes; his neck was strangled with a shining black stock, -and his feet were pinioned in a pair of water proof boots, with high -heels, which made him ‘step like a yoked hog.’ - -“‘Ha-ha-hagh (pardón, Monsieur Cataline, for I am almost laugh)—well, -he was a fine genteman, ha?’ - -“On his head was a high-crowned beaver hat, with a broad silver lace -band, surmounted by a huge red feather, some two feet, high; his coat -collar stiff with lace, came higher up than his ears, and over it -flowed, down towards his haunches—his long Indian locks, stuck up in -rolls and plaits, with red paint. - -“‘Ha-ha-hagh-agh-ah.’ - -“Hold your tongue, Ba’tiste. - -“‘Well, go on—go on.’ - -‘A large silver medal was suspended from his neck by a blue ribbon—and -across his right shoulder passed a wide belt, supporting by his side a -broad sword. - -“‘Diable!’ - -“On his hands he had drawn a pair of white kid gloves, and in them -held, a blue umbrella in one, and a large fan in the other. In -this fashion was poor Wi-jun-jon metamorphosed, on his return from -Washington; and, in this plight was he strutting and whistling Yankee -Doodle, about the deck of the steamer that was wending its way up the -mighty Missouri, and taking him to his native land again; where he was -soon to light his pipe, and cheer the wigwam fire-side, with tales of -novelty and wonder. - -“Well, Ba’tiste, I travelled with this new-fangled gentleman until -he reached his home, two thousand miles above St. Louis, and I could -never look upon him for a moment without excessive laughter, at the -ridiculous figure he cut—the strides, the angles, the stiffness of this -travelling beau! Oh Ba’tiste, if you could have seen him, you would -have split your sides with laughter; he was—‘puss in boots,’ precisely! - -“‘By gar, he is good compare! Ha-ha, Monsieur: (pardón) I am laugh: I -am see him wen he is arrive in Yellow Stone; you know I was dere. I am -laugh much wen he is got off de boat, and all de Assinneboins was dere -to look. Oh diable! I am laugh almost to die, I am split!—súppose he -was pretty stiff, ha?—‘cob on spindle,’ ha? Oh, by gar, he is coot pour -laugh—pour rire?’ - -“After Wi-jun-jon had got home, and passed the usual salutations among -his friends, he commenced the simple narration of scenes he had passed -through, and of things he had beheld among the whites; which appeared -to them so much like fiction, that it was impossible to believe them, -and they set him down as an impostor. ‘He has been, (they said,) among -the whites, who are great liars, and all he has learned is to come home -and tell lies.’ He sank rapidly into disgrace in his tribe; his high -claims to political eminence all vanished; he was reputed worthless—the -greatest, liar of his nation; the chiefs shunned him and passed him -by as one of the tribe who was lost; yet the ears of the gossipping -portion of the tribe were open, and the camp-fire circle and the -wigwam fire-side, gave silent audience to the whispered narratives of -the ‘travelled Indian.’ * * * * * - -“The next day after he had arrived among his friends, the superfluous -part of his coat, (which was a laced frock), was converted into -a pair of leggings for his wife; and his hat-band of silver lace -furnished her a magnificent pair of garters. The remainder of the coat, -curtailed of its original length, was seen buttoned upon the shoulders -of his brother, over and above a pair of leggings of buckskin; and -_Wi-jun-jon_ was parading about among his gaping friends, with a bow -and quiver slung over his shoulders, which, _sans coat_, exhibited a -fine linen shirt with studs and sleeve buttons. His broad-sword kept -its place, but about noon, his boots gave way to a pair of garnished -moccasins; and in such plight he gossipped away the day among his -friends, while his heart spoke so freely and so effectually from the -bung-hole of a little keg of whiskey, which he had brought the whole -way, (as one of the choicest presents made him at Washington), that his -tongue became silent. - -“One of his little fair enamoratas, or ‘catch crumbs,’ such as live -in the halo of all great men, fixed her eyes and her affections upon -his beautiful silk braces, and the next day, while the keg was yet -dealing out its kindnesses, he was seen paying visits to the lodges -of his old acquaintance, swaggering about, with his keg under his -arm, whistling Yankee Doodle, and Washington’s Grand March; his white -shirt, or that part of it that had been _flapping_ in the wind, had -been shockingly tithed—his pantaloons of blue, laced with gold, were -razed into a pair of comfortable leggings—his bow and quiver were -slung, and his broad-sword which trailed on the ground, had sought the -centre of gravity, and taken a position between his legs, and dragging -behind him, served as a rudder to steer him over the ‘earth’s troubled -surface.’ - -“‘Ha-hah-hagh————ah——————o——————oo——k, eh bien.’ - -“Two days’ revel of this kind, had drawn from his keg all its charms; -and in the mellowness of his heart, all his finery had vanished, and -all of its appendages, except his umbrella, to which his heart’s -strongest affections still clung, and with it, and under it, in rude -dress of buckskin, he was afterwards to be seen, in all sorts of -weather, acting the fop and the beau as well as he could, with his -limited means. In this plight, and in this dress, with his umbrella -always in his hand, (as the only remaining evidence of his _quondam_ -greatness,) he began in his sober moments, to entertain and instruct -his people, by honest and simple narratives of things and scenes he had -beheld during his tour to the East; but which (unfortunately for him), -were to them too marvellous and improbable to be believed. He told the -gaping multitude, that were constantly gathering about him, of the -distance he had travelled—of the astonishing number of houses he had -seen—of the towns and cities, with all their wealth and splendour—of -travelling on steamboats, in stages, and on railroads. He described -our forts, and seventy-four gun ships, which he had visited—their big -guns—our great bridges—our great council-house at Washington, and its -doings—the curious and wonderful machines in the patent office, (which -he pronounced the _greatest medicine place_ he had seen); he described -the great war parade, which he saw in the city of New York—the ascent -of the balloon from Castle Garden—the numbers of the white people, the -beauty of the white squaws; their red cheeks, and many thousands of -other things, all of which were so much beyond their comprehension, -that they ‘could not be true,’ and ‘he must be the very greatest liar -in the whole world.’[33] - -“But he was beginning to acquire a reputation of a different kind. He -was denominated a _medicine-man_, and one too of the most extraordinary -character; for they deemed him far above the ordinary sort of human -beings, whose mind could _invent_ and _conjure_ up for their amusement, -such an ingenious _fabrication_ of novelty and wonder. He steadily and -unostentatiously persisted, however, in this way of entertaining his -friends and his people, though he knew his standing was affected by -it. He had an exhaustless theme to descant upon through the remainder -of his life; and he seemed satisfied to lecture all his life, for the -pleasure which it gave him. - -“So great was his _medicine_, however, that they began, chiefs and -all, to look upon him as a most extraordinary being, and the customary -honours and forms began to be applied to him, and the respect -shewn him, that belongs to all men in the Indian country, who are -distinguished for their _medicine_ or _mysteries_. In short, when all -became familiar with the astonishing representations that he made, and -with the wonderful alacrity with which ‘he _created_ them,’ he was -denominated the very greatest of _medicine_; and not only that, but -the ‘_lying medicine_.’ That he should be the greatest of _medicine_, -and that for _lying, merely_, rendered him a prodigy in mysteries that -commanded not only respect, but at length, (when he was more maturely -heard and listened to) admiration, awe, and at last dread and terror; -which altogether must needs conspire to rid the world of a monster, -whose more than human talents must be cut down, to less than human -measurement. - -“‘Wat! Monsieur Cataline, dey av not try to kill him?’ - -“Yes, Ba’tiste, in this way the poor fellow had lived, and been for -three years past continually relating the scenes he had beheld, in -his tour to the ‘_Far East_;’ until his medicine became so alarmingly -great, that they were unwilling he should live; they were disposed -to kill him for a wizard. One of the young men of the tribe took the -duty upon himself, and after much perplexity, hit upon the following -plan, _to-wit_:—he had fully resolved, in conjunction with others who -were in the conspiracy, that the medicine of Wi-jun-jon was too great -for the ordinary mode, and that he was so great a liar that a rifle -bullet would not kill him; while the young man was in this distressing -dilemma, which lasted for some weeks, he had a dream one night, which -solved all difficulties; and in consequence of which, he loitered about -the store in the Fort, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, until he could -procure, _by stealth_, (according to the injunction of his dream,) -the handle of an iron pot, which he supposed to possess the requisite -virtue, and taking it into the woods, he there spent a whole day in -straightening and filing it, to fit it into the barrel of his gun; -after which, he made his appearance again in the Fort, with his gun -under his robe, charged with the pot handle, and getting behind poor -Wi-jun-jon, whilst he was talking with the Trader, placed the muzzle -behind his head and blew out his brains! - -“‘Sacré vengeance! oh, mon Dieu! let me cry—I shall cry always, for -evare—Oh he is not true, I hope? no, Monsieur, no!’ - -“Yes, Ba’tiste, it is a fact: thus ended the days and the greatness, -and all the pride and hopes of +Wi-jun-jon+, the ‘_Pigeon’s Egg -Head_,’—a warrior and a brave of the valiant Assinneboins, who -travelled eight thousand miles to see the President, and all the great -cities of the civilized world; and who, for telling the _truth_, and -_nothing but the truth_, was, after he got home, disgraced and killed -for a wizard. - -“‘Oh, Monsieur Cataline—I am distress—I am sick—I was hope he is not -true—oh I am mortify. Wi-jun-jon was coot Ingin—he was my bruddare—eh -bien—eh bien.’ - -“Now, my friend Ba’tiste, I see you are distressed, and I regret -exceedingly that it must be so; he was your friend and relative, and I -myself feel sad at the poor fellow’s unhappy and luckless fate; for he -was a handsome, an honest, and a noble Indian.” - -“‘C’est vrais. Monsieur, c’est vrai.’ - -“This man’s death, Ba’tiste, has been a loss to himself, to -his friends, and to the world, but you and I may profit by it, -nevertheless, if we bear it in mind—— - -“‘Oui! yes, Monsr. mais, suppose, ’tis bad wind dat blows nary way, ha?’ - -“Yes, Ba’tiste, we may profit by his misfortune, if we choose. We may -call it a ‘caution;’ for instance, when I come to write your book, -as you have proposed, the fate of this poor fellow, who was relating -no more than what he actually saw, will _caution_ you against the -_imprudence of telling all that you actually know_, and narrating all -that you have _seen_, lest like him you sink into disgrace for telling -the truth. You know, Ba’tiste, that there are many things to be seen in -the kind of life that you and I have been living for some years past, -which it would be more prudent for us to suppress than to tell. - -“‘Oui, Monsieur. Well, súppose, perhaps I am discourage about de book. -Mais, we shall see, ha?’” - -Thus ended the last night’s gossip, and in the cool of this morning, -we bid adieu to the quiet and stillness of this wild place, of which I -have resolved to give a little further account before we take leave of -it. - -From the Fall of St. Anthony, my delightful companion (Mr. Wood, whom -I have before mentioned) and myself, with our Indian guide, whose name -was O-kup-pee, tracing the beautiful shores of the St. Peters river, -about eighty miles; crossing it at a place called “_Traverse des -Sioux_,” and recrossing it at another point about thirty miles above -the mouth of “_Terre Bleue_,” from whence we steered in a direction a -little North of West for the “Côteau des Prairies,” leaving the St. -Peters river, and crossing one of the most beautiful prairie countries -in the world, for the distance of one hundred and twenty or thirty -miles, which brought us to the base of the Côteau, where we were joined -by our kind and esteemed companion Monsieur La Fromboise, as I have -before related. This tract of country as well as that along the St. -Peters river, is mostly covered with the richest soil, and furnishes an -abundance of good water, which flows from a thousand living springs. -For many miles we had the Côteau in view in the distance before us, -which looked like a blue cloud settling down in the horizon; and we -were scarcely sensible of the fact, when we had arrived at its base, -from the graceful and almost imperceptible swells with which it -commences its elevation above the country around it. Over these swells -or terraces, gently rising one above the other, we travelled for the -distance of forty or fifty miles, when we at length reached the summit; -and from the base of this mound, to its top, a distance of forty or -fifty miles, there was not a tree or bush to be seen in any direction, -and the ground everywhere was covered with a green turf of grass, about -five or six inches high; and we were assured by our Indian guide, -that it descended to the West, towards the Missouri, with a similar -inclination, and for an equal distance, divested of every thing save -the grass that grows, and the animals that walk upon it. - -On the very top of this mound or ridge, we found the far-famed quarry -or fountain of the Red Pipe, which is truly an anomaly in nature -(+plate+ 270). The principal and most striking feature of this -place, is a perpendicular wall of close-grained, compact quartz, of -twenty-five and thirty feet in elevation, running nearly North and -South with its face to the West, exhibiting a front of nearly two -miles in length, when it disappears at both ends by running under the -prairie, which becomes there a little more elevated, and probably -covers it for many miles, both to the North and the South. The -depression of the brow of the ridge at this place has been caused by -the wash of a little stream, produced by several springs on the top, -a little back from the wall; which has gradually carried away the -super-incumbent earth, and having bared the wall for the distance of -two miles, is now left to glide for some distance over a perfectly -level surface of quartz rock; and then to leap from the top of the -wall into a deep basin below, and from thence seek its course to the -Missouri, forming the extreme source of a noted and powerful tributary, -called the “Big Sioux.” - -This beautiful wall is horizontal, and stratified in several distinct -layers of light grey, and rose or flesh-coloured quartz; and for most -of the way, both on the front of the wall, and for acres of its -horizontal surface, highly polished or glazed, as if by ignition. - -At the base of this wall there is a level prairie, of half a mile in -width, running parallel to it; in any and all parts of which, the -Indians procure the red stone for their pipes, by digging through the -soil and several slaty layers of the red stone, to the depth of four -or five feet.[34] From the very numerous marks of ancient and modern -diggings or excavations, it would appear that this place has been for -many centuries resorted to for the red stone; and from the great number -of graves and remains of ancient fortifications in its vicinity, it -would seem, as well as from their actual traditions, that the Indian -tribes have long held this place in high superstitious estimation; and -also that it has been the resort of different tribes, who have made -their regular pilgrimages here to renew their pipes. - -The red pipe stone, I consider, will take its place amongst minerals, -as an interesting subject of itself; and the “Côteau des Prairies” will -become hereafter an important theme for geologists; not only from the -fact that this is the only known locality of that mineral, but from -other phenomena relating to it. The single fact of such a table of -quartz, in horizontal strata, resting on this elevated plateau, is of -itself (in my opinion) a very interesting subject for investigation; -and one which calls upon the scientific world for a correct theory with -regard to the time when, and the manner in which, this formation was -produced. That it is of a secondary character, and of a sedimentary -deposit, seems evident; and that it has withstood the force of the -diluvial current, while the great valley of the Missouri, from this -very wall of rocks to the Rocky Mountains, has been excavated, and -its debris carried to the ocean, there is also not a shadow of doubt; -which opinion I confidently advance on the authority of the following -remarkable facts: - -At the base of the wall, and within a few rods of it, and on the very -ground where the Indians dig for the red stone, rests a group of five -stupendous boulders of gneiss, leaning against each other; the smallest -of which is twelve or fifteen feet, and the largest twenty-five feet -in diameter, altogether weighing, unquestionably, several hundred -tons. These blocks are composed chiefly of felspar and mica, of an -exceedingly coarse grain (the felspar often occurring in crystals -of an inch in diameter). The surface of these boulders is in every -part covered with a grey moss, which gives them an extremely ancient -and venerable appearance, and their sides and angles are rounded by -attrition, to the shape and character of most other erratic stones, -which are found throughout the country. It is under these blocks that -the two holes, or ovens are seen, in which, according to the Indian -superstition, the two old women, the guardian spirits of the place, -reside; of whom I have before spoken. - -That these five immense blocks, of precisely the same character, and -differing materially from all other specimens of boulders which I have -seen in the great vallies of the Mississippi and Missouri, should have -been hurled some hundreds of miles from their native bed, and lodged in -so singular a group on this elevated ridge, is truly matter of surprise -for the scientific world, as well as for the poor Indian, whose -superstitious veneration of them is such, that not a spear of grass is -broken or bent by his feet, within three or four rods of them, where -he stops, and in humble supplication, by throwing plugs of tobacco -to them, solicits permission to dig and carry away the red stone for -his pipes. The surface of these boulders are in every part entire and -unscratched by anything; wearing the moss everywhere unbroken, except -where I applied the hammer, to obtain some small specimens, which I -shall bring away with me. - -The fact alone, that these blocks differ in character from all other -specimens which I have seen in my travels, amongst the thousands of -boulders which are strewed over the great valley of the Missouri and -Mississippi, from the Yellow Stone almost to the Gulf of Mexico, raises -in my mind an unanswerable question, as regards the location of their -native bed, and the means by which they have reached their isolated -position; like five brothers, leaning against and supporting each -other, without the existence of another boulder within many miles of -them. There are thousands and tens of thousands of boulders scattered -over the prairies, at the base of the Côteau on either side; and so -throughout the valley of the St. Peters and Mississippi, which are also -subjects of very great interest and importance to science, inasmuch as -they present to the world, a vast variety of characters; and each one, -though strayed away from its original position, bears incontestable -proof of the character of its native bed. The tract of country lying -between the St. Peters river and the Côteau, over which we passed, -presents innumerable specimens of this kind; and near the base of -the Côteau they are strewed over the prairie in countless numbers, -presenting almost an incredible variety of rich, and beautiful colours; -and undoubtedly traceable, (if they can be traced), to separate and -distinct beds. - -Amongst these beautiful groups, it was sometimes a very easy matter -to sit on my horse and count within my sight, some twenty or thirty -different varieties, of quartz and granite, in rounded boulders, of -every hue and colour, from snow white to intense red, and yellow, -and blue, and almost to a jet black; each one well characterized and -evidently from a distinct quarry. With the beautiful hues and almost -endless characters of these blocks, I became completely surprised and -charmed; and I resolved to procure specimens of every variety, which -I did with success, by dismounting from my horse, and breaking small -bits from them with my hammer; until I had something like an hundred -different varieties, containing all the tints and colours of a -painter’s palette. These, I at length threw away, as I had on several -former occasions, other minerals and fossils, which I had collected and -lugged along from day to day, and sometimes from week to week. - -Whether these varieties of quartz and granite can all be traced to -their native beds, or whether they all have origins at this time -exposed above the earth’s surface, are equally matters of much doubt in -my mind. I believe that the geologist may take the different varieties, -which he may gather at the base of the Côteau in one hour, and travel -the Continent of North America all over without being enabled to put -them all in place; coming at last to the unavoidable conclusion, that -numerous chains or beds of primitive rocks have reared their heads on -this Continent, the summits of which have been swept away by the force -of diluvial currents, and their fragments jostled together and strewed -about, like foreigners in a strange land, over the great vallies of the -Mississippi and Missouri, where they will ever remain, and be gazed -upon by the traveller, as the only remaining evidence of their native -beds, which have again submerged or been covered with diluvial deposits. - -There seems not to be, either on the Côteau or in the great vallies on -either side, so far as I have travelled, any slaty or other formation -exposed above the surface on which grooves or scratches can be seen, to -establish the direction of the diluvial currents in those regions; yet -I think the fact is pretty clearly established by the general shapes of -the vallies, and the courses of the mountain ridges which wall them in -on their sides. - -The Côteau des Prairies is the dividing ridge between the St. Peters -and Missouri rivers; its southern termination or slope is about in the -latitude of the Fall of St. Anthony, and it stands equi-distant between -the two rivers; its general course bearing two or three degrees West of -North for the distance of two or three hundred miles, when it gradually -slopes again to the North, throwing out from its base the head-waters -and tributaries of the St. Peters, on the East. The Red River, and -other streams, which empty into Hudson’s Bay, on the North; La Riviere -Jaque and several other tributaries to the Missouri, on the West; and -the Red Cedar, the Ioway and the Des Moines, on the South. - -This wonderful feature, which is several hundred miles in length, and -varying from fifty to a hundred in width, is, perhaps, the noblest -mound of its kind in the world; it gradually and gracefully rises on -each side, by swell after swell, without tree, or bush or rock (save -what are to be seen in the vicinity of the Pipe Stone Quarry), and -everywhere covered with green grass, affording the traveller, from its -highest elevations, the most unbounded and sublime views——of nothing at -all——save the blue and boundless ocean of prairies that lie beneath and -all around him, vanishing into azure in the distance without a speck or -spot to break their softness. - -The direction of this ridge, I consider, pretty clearly establishes the -course of the diluvial current in this region, and the erratic stones -which are distributed along its base, I attribute to an origin several -hundred miles North West from the Côteau. I have not myself traced -the Côteau to its highest points, nor to its Northern extremity; but -it has been a subject, on which I have closely questioned a number of -traders, who have traversed every mile of it with their carts, and from -thence to Lake Winnepeg on the North, who uniformly tell me, that there -is no range of primitive rocks to be crossed in travelling the whole -distance, which is one connected and continuous prairie. - -The top and sides of the Côteau are everywhere strewed over the surface -with granitic sand and pebbles, which, together with the fact of the -five boulders resting at the Pipe Stone Quarry, shew clearly that every -part of the ridge has been subject to the action of these currents, -which could not have run counter to it, without having disfigured or -deranged its beautiful symmetry. - -The glazed or polished surface of the quartz rocks at the Pipe Stone -Quarry, I consider a very interesting subject, and one which will -excite hereafter a variety of theories, as to the manner in which it -has been produced, and the causes which have led to such singular -results. The quartz is of a close grain, and exceedingly hard, -eliciting the most brilliant spark from steel; and in most places, -where exposed to the sun and the air, has a high polish on its -surface, entirely beyond any results which could have been produced by -diluvial action, being perfectly glazed as if by ignition. I was not -sufficiently particular in my examinations to ascertain whether any -parts of the surface of these rocks under the ground, and not exposed -to the action of the air, were thus affected, which would afford an -important argument in forming a correct theory with regard to it; and -it may also be a fact of similar importance, that this polish does not -extend over the whole wall or area; but is distributed over it in parts -and sections, often disappearing suddenly, and reappearing again, even -where the character and exposure of the rock is the same and unbroken. -In general, the parts and points most projecting and exposed, bear -the highest polish, which would naturally be the case whether it was -produced by ignition, or by the action of the air and sun. It would -seem almost an impossibility, that the air passing these projections -for a series of centuries, could have produced so high a polish on so -hard a substance; and it seems equally unaccountable, that this effect -could have been produced in the other way, in the total absence of all -igneous matter. - -I have broken off specimens and brought them home, which certainly bear -as high a polish and lustre on the surface, as a piece of melted glass; -and then as these rocks have undoubtedly been formed where they now -lie, it must be admitted, that this strange effect on their surface has -been produced either by the action of the air and sun, or by igneous -influence; and if by the latter course, there is no other conclusion we -can come to, than that these results are volcanic; that this wall has -once formed the side of a crater, and that the Pipe Stone, laving in -horizontal strata, is formed of the lava which has issued from it. I -am strongly inclined to believe, however, that the former supposition -is the correct one; and that the Pipe Stone, which differs from all -known specimens of lava, is a new variety of _steatite_, and will be -found to be a subject of great interest and one worthy of a careful -analysis.[35] - -With such notes and such memorandums on this shorn land, whose quiet -and silence are only broken by the winds and the thunders of Heaven, I -close my note-book, and we this morning saddle our horses; and after -wending our way to the “Thunders’ Nest” and the “Stone-man Medicine,” -we shall descend into the valley of the St. Peters, and from that to -the regions of civilization; from whence, if I can get there, you will -hear of me again. Adieu. - -[Illustration: 271 272] - -[Illustration: 273 274 275] - -[Illustration: 276] - -[Illustration: 277] - - [33] Most unfortunately for this poor fellow, the other one of his - tribe, who travelled with him, and could have borne testimony to - the truth of his statements, died of the quinsey on his way home. - - - [34] From the very many excavations recently and anciently made, - I could discover that these layers varied very much, in their - thickness in different parts; and that in some places they were - overlaid with four or five feet of rock, similar to, and in fact a - part of, the lower stratum of the wall. - - - [35] In Silliman’s American Journal of Science, Vol. xxxvii., p. - 394, will be seen the following analysis of this mineral, made by - Dr. Jackson of Boston, one of our best mineralogists and chemists; - to whom I sent some specimens for the purpose, and who pronounced - it, “_a new mineral compound, not steatite, is harder than gypsum, - and softer than carbonate of lime_.” - - _Chemical Analysis of the Red Pipe Stone_, brought by George - Catlin, from the Côteau des Prairies, in 1836: - - Water 8.4 - Silica 48.2 - Alumina 28.2 - Magnesia 6.0 - Carbonate of lime 2.6 - Peroxide of iron 5.0 - Oxide of manganése 0.6 - ————— - 99.0 - ————— - Loss (probably magnesia) 1.0 - ————— - 100.0 - ————— - - +Note.+—All the varieties of this beautiful mineral, may at all - times be seen in the +Indian Museum+; and by the curious, specimens - may be obtained for any further experiments. - - - - - LETTER—No. 56. - - ROCK ISLAND, _UPPER MISSISSIPPI_. - - -It will be seen by this, that I am again wending my way towards home. -Our neat little “dug out,” by the aid of our paddles, has at length -brought my travelling companion and myself in safety to this place, -where we found the river, the shores, and the plains contiguous, alive -and vivid with plumes, with spears, and war-clubs of the yelling red -men. - -We had heard that the whole nation of Sacs and Foxes were to meet -Governor Dodge here in treaty at this time, and nerve was given -liberally to our paddles, which had brought us from Traverse de Sioux, -on the St. Peters river; and we reached here luckily in time to see the -parades and forms of a savage community, transferring the rights and -immunities of their natural soil, to the insatiable grasp of pale faced -voracity. - -After having glutted our curiosity at the fountain of the Red Pipe, our -horses brought us to the base of the Côteau, and then over the extended -plain that lies between that and the Traverse de Sioux, on the St. -Peters with about five days’ travel. - -In this distance we passed some of the loveliest prairie country in -the world, and I made a number of sketches—“_Laque du Cygne_, Swan -Lake,” (+plate+ 276), was a peculiar and lovely scene, extending for -many miles, and filled with innumerable small islands covered with a -profusion of rich forest trees. +Plate+ 277, exhibits the Indian mode -of taking muskrats, which dwell in immense numbers in these northern -prairies, and build their burrows in shoal water, of the stalks of -the wild rice. They are built up something of the size and form of -haycocks, having a dry chamber in the top, where the animal sleeps -above water, passing in and out through a hole beneath the water’s -surface. The skins of these animals are sought by the Traders, for -their fur, and they constitute the staple of all these regions, being -caught in immense numbers by the Indians, and vended to the Fur -Traders. The mode of taking them is seen in the drawing; the women, -children and dogs attend to the little encampments, while the men wade -to their houses or burrows, and one strikes on the backs of them, as -the other takes the inhabitants in a rapid manner with a spear, while -they are escaping from them. - -+Plate+ 278, is a party of Sioux, in bark canoes (purchased of the -Chippeways), gathering the wild rice, which grows in immense fields -around the shores of the rivers and lakes of these northern regions, -and used by the Indians as an useful article of food. The mode of -gathering it is curious, and as seen in the drawing—one woman paddles -the canoe, whilst another, with a stick in each hand, bends the rice -over the canoe with one, and strikes it with the other, which shells it -into the canoe, which is constantly moving along until it is filled. - -+Plate+ 279, is a representation of one of the many lovely prairie -scenes we passed on the banks of the St. Peters river, near the -Traverse de Sioux. - -Whilst traversing this beautiful region of country, we passed the bands -of Sioux, who had made us so much trouble on our way to the Red Pipe, -but met with no further molestation. - -At the Traverse de Sioux, our horses were left, and we committed our -bodies and little travelling conveniences to the narrow compass of -a modest canoe, that must most evidently have been dug out from the -_wrong side of the log_—that required _us_ and everything in it, to be -exactly in the bottom—and then, to look straight forward, and speak -from the _middle_ of our _mouths_, or it was “_t’other side up_” in an -instant. In this way embarked, with our paddles used as balance poles -and propellers (after drilling awhile in shoal water till we could “get -the hang of it”), we started off, upon the bosom of the St. Peters, -for the Fall of St. Anthony. * * * * * * Sans accident we arrived, at -ten o’clock at night of the second day—and sans steamer (which we were -in hopes to meet), we were obliged to trust to our little tremulous -craft to carry us through the windings of the mighty Mississippi and -Lake Pepin, to Prairie du Chien, a distance of 400 miles, which I had -travelled last summer in the same manner. - -“Oh the drudgery and toil of paddling our little canoe from this to -Prairie du Chien, we never can do it, Catlin.” - -“Ah well, never mind, my dear fellow—we _must_ ‘go it’—there is no -other way. But think of the pleasure of such a trip, ha? Our guns and -our fishing-tackle will we have in good order, and be masters of our -own boat—we can shove it into every nook and crevice; explore the -caves in the rocks; ascend ‘_Mount Strombolo_,’ and linger along the -pebbly shores of Lake Pepin, to our hearts’ content.” “Well, I am -perfectly agreed; that’s fine, by Jupiter, that’s what I shall relish -exactly; we will have our own fun, and a truce to the labour and time; -let’s haste and be off.” So we catered for our voyage, shook hands -with our friends, and were again balancing our skittish bark upon -the green waters of the Mississippi. We encamped (as I had done the -summer before), along its lonely banks, whose only music is the echoing -war-song that rises from the glimmering camp-fire of the retiring -savage, or the cries of the famishing wolf that sits and bitterly weeps -out in tremulous tones, his impatience for the crumbs that are to fall -to his lot. - -[Illustration: 278] - -[Illustration: 279] - -Oh! but we enjoyed those moments, (did we not, Wood? I would ask you, -in any part of the world, where circumstances shall throw this in your -way) those nights of our voyage, which ended days of peril and fatigue; -when our larder was full, when our coffee was good, our mats spread, -and our musquito bars over us, which admitted the cool and freshness of -night, but screened the dew, and bade defiance to the buzzing thousands -of sharp-billed, winged torturers that were kicking and thumping -for admission. I speak now of _fair weather_, not of the nights of -lightning and of rain! We’ll pass them over. We had all kinds though, -and as we loitered ten days on our way, we examined and experimented -on many things for the benefit of mankind. We drew into our larder -(in addition to bass and wild fowls), clams, snails, frogs, and -rattlesnakes; the latter of which, when properly dressed and broiled, -we found to be the most delicious food of the land. - -We were stranded upon the Eastern shore of Lake Pepin, where headwinds -held us three days; and, like solitary Malays or Zealand penguins, we -stalked along and about its pebbly shores till we were tired, before -we could, with security, lay our little trough upon its troubled -surface. When liberated from its wind-bound shores, we busily plied -our paddles, and nimbly sped our way, until we were landed at the -fort of “Mount Strombolo,” (as the soldiers call it), but properly -denominated, in French, _La Montaigne que tromps a l’eau_. We ascended -it without much trouble; and enjoyed from its top, one of the most -magnificent panoramic views that the Western world can furnish; and -I would recommend to the tourist who has time to stop for an hour or -two, to go to its summit, and enjoy with rapture, the splendour of -the scene that lies near and in distance about him. This mountain, or -rather pyramid, is an anomaly in the country, rising as it does, about -seven hundred feet from the water, and washed at its base, all around, -by the river; which divides and runs on each side of it. It is composed -chiefly of rock, and all its strata correspond exactly with those of -the projecting promontories on either side of the river. We at length -arrived safe at Prairie du Chien; which was also sans steamer. We were -moored again, thirty miles below, at the beautiful banks and bluffs of -Cassville; which, too, was _sans steamer_—we dipped our paddles again -———— ———— ———— and ... - -We are now six hundred miles below the Fall of St. Anthony, where -steamers daily pass; and we feel, of course, at home. I spoke of -the _Treaty_. We were just in time, and beheld its conclusion. It -was signed yesterday; and this day, of course, is one of revel and -amusements—shows of war-parades and dances. The whole of the Sacs and -Foxes are gathered here, and their appearance is very thrilling, and -at the same time pleasing. These people have sold so much of their -land lately, that they have the luxuries of life to a considerable -degree, and may be considered rich; consequently they look elated and -happy, carrying themselves much above the humbled manner of most of the -semi-civilized tribes, whose heads are hanging and drooping in poverty -and despair. - -In a former epistle, I mentioned the interview which I had with -Kee-o-kuk, and the leading men and women of his tribe, when I painted a -number of their portraits and amusements as follow: - -_Kee-o-kuk_ (the running fox, +plate+ 280), is the present chief of -the tribe, a dignified and proud man, with a good share of talent, -and vanity enough to force into action all the wit and judgment he -possesses, in order to command the attention and respect of the world. -At the close of the “Black Hawk War” in 1833, which had been waged with -disastrous effects along the frontier, by a Sac chief of that name; -_Kee-o-kuk_ was acknowledged chief of the Sacs and Foxes by General -Scott, who held a Treaty with them at Rock Island. His appointment as -chief, was in consequence of the friendly position he had taken during -the war, holding two-thirds of the warriors neutral, which was no doubt -the cause of the sudden and successful termination of the war, and the -means of saving much bloodshed. Black Hawk and his two sons, as well -as his principal advisers and warriors, were brought into St. Louis in -chains, and _Kee-o-kuk_ appointed chief with the assent of the tribe. -In his portrait I have represented him in the costume, precisely, in -which he was dressed when he stood for it, with his shield on his -arm, and his staff (insignia of office) in his left hand. There is no -Indian chief on the frontier better known at this time, or more highly -appreciated for his eloquence, as a public speaker, than Kee-o-kuk; as -he has repeatedly visited Washington and others of our Atlantic towns, -and made his speeches before thousands, when he has been contending -for his people’s rights, in their stipulations with the United States -Government, for the sale of their lands. - -As so much is known of this man, amongst the citizens of the United -States, there is scarcely need of my saying much more of him to them; -but for those who know less of him, I shall say more anon. +Plate+ 281, -is a portrait of the wife of _Kee-o-kuk_, and +plate+ 282, of his -favourite son, whom he intends to be his successor. These portraits -are both painted, also, in the costumes precisely in which they were -dressed. This woman was the favourite one, (I think) of seven, whom -he had living, (_apparently_ quite comfortably and peaceably,) in his -wigwam, where General Street and I visited him in his village on the -Des Moines river. And, although she was the oldest of the “lot,” she -seemed to be the favourite one on this occasion—the only one that could -be painted; on account, I believe, of her being the mother of his -favourite son. Her dress, which was of civilized stuffs, was fashioned -and ornamented by herself, and was truly a most splendid affair; the -upper part of it being almost literally covered with silver broaches. - -The Sacs and Foxes, who were once two separate tribes, but with a -language very similar, have, at some period not very remote, united -into one, and are now an inseparable people, and go by the familiar -appellation of the amalgam name of “Sacs and Foxes.” - -These people, as will be seen in their portraits, shave and ornament -their heads, like the Osages and Pawnees, of whom I have spoken -heretofore; and are amongst the number of tribes who have -relinquished their immense tracts of lands, and recently retired West -of the Mississippi river. Their numbers at present are not more than -five or six thousand, yet they are a warlike and powerful tribe. - -[Illustration: 280] - -[Illustration: 282] - -[Illustration: 281] - -[Illustration: 283 284] - -[Illustration: 285 286] - -_Muk-a-tah-mish-o-kah-kaik_ (the black hawk, +plate+ 283) is the man to -whom I have above alluded, as the leader of the “Black Hawk war,” who -was defeated by General Atkinson, and held a prisoner of war, and sent -through Washington and other Eastern cities, with a number of others, -to be gazed at. - -This man, whose name has carried a sort of terror through the country -where it has been sounded, has been distinguished as a speaker or -councellor rather than as a warrior; and I believe it has been pretty -generally admitted, that “_Nah-pope_” and the “Prophet” were, in fact, -the instigators of the war; and either of them with much higher claims -for the name of warrior than Black Hawk ever had. - -When I painted this chief, he was dressed in a plain suit of buckskin, -with strings of wampum in his ears and on his neck, and held in his -hand, his medicine-bag, which was the skin of a black hawk, from which -he had taken his name, and the tail of which made him a fan, which he -was almost constantly using. - -+Plate+ 284, is the eldest son of Black Hawk, _Nah-se-us-kuk_ (the -whirling thunder), a very handsome young warrior, and one of the -finest-looking Indians I ever saw. There is a strong party in the tribe -that is anxious to put this young man up; and I think it more than -likely, that _Kee-o-kuk_ as chief may fall ere long by his hand, or by -some of the tribe, who are anxious to reinstate the family of Black -Hawk. - -+Plate+ 285, _Wah-pe-kee-suck_ (the white cloud), called “the Prophet,” -is a very distinguished man, and one of the principal and leading men -of the Black Hawk party, and studying favour with the whites, as will -be seen by the manner in which he was allowing his hair to grow out. - -+Plate+ 286, _Wee-sheet_ (the sturgeon’s head), this man held a spear -in his hand when he was being painted, with which he assured me he -killed four white men during the war; though I have some doubts of the -fact. - -_Ah-mou-a_ (the whale, +plate+ 287, and his wife, +plate+ 288), are -also fair specimens of this tribe. Her name is Wa-quo-the-qua (the -buck’s wife, or female deer), and she was wrapped in a mackinaw -blanket, whilst he was curiously dressed, and held his war-club in his -hand. - -_Pash-ee-pa-ho_ (the little stabbing chief, +plate+ 289), a very old -man, holding his shield, staff and pipe in his hands; has long been the -head civil chief of this tribe; but, as is generally the case in very -old age, he has resigned the office to those who are younger and better -qualified to do the duties of it. - -Besides the above-mentioned personages, I painted also the following -portraits, which are now in my Collection. - -_I-o-way_ (the Ioway), one of Black Hawk’s principal warriors; his -body curiously ornamented with his “war-paint;” _Pam-a-ho_ (the -swimmer), one of Black Hawk’s warriors; _No-kuk-qua_ (the bear’s fat); -_Pash-ee-pa-ho_ (the little stabbing chief, the younger), one of Black -Hawk’s braves; _Wah-pa-ko-las-kuk_ (the bear’s track); _Wa-saw-me-saw_ -(the roaring thunder), youngest son of Black Hawk; painted while -prisoner of war. - -+Plate+ 290, _Kee-o-kuk_, on horseback. After I had painted the -portrait of this vain man at full length, and which I have already -introduced, he had the vanity to say to me, that he made a fine -appearance on horseback, and that he wished me to paint him thus. So -I prepared my canvass in the door of the hospital which I occupied, -in the dragoon cantonment; and he flourished about for a considerable -part of the day in front of me, until the picture was completed. The -horse that he rode was the best animal on the frontier; a fine blooded -horse, for which he gave the price of 300 dollars, a thing that he was -quite able to, who had the distribution of 50,000 dollars annuities, -annually, amongst his people. He made a great display on this day, and -hundreds of the dragoons and officers were about him, and looking on -during the operation. His horse was beautifully caparisoned, and his -scalps were carried attached to the bridle-bits.[36] - -[Illustration: 287] - -[Illustration: 288] - -[Illustration: 289] - -[Illustration: 290] - -[Illustration: 291] - -[Illustration: 292] - -The dances and other amusements amongst this tribe are exceedingly -spirited and pleasing; and I have made sketches of a number of them, -which I briefly introduce here, and leave them for further comments at -a future time, provided I ever get leisure and space to enable me to do -it. - -The _slave-dance_ (+plate+ 291), is a picturesque scene, and the custom -in which it is founded a very curious one. This tribe has a society -which they call the “_slaves_,” composed of a number of the young men -of the best families in the tribe, who volunteer to be slaves for the -term of two years, and subject to perform any menial service that the -chief may order, no matter how humiliating or how degrading it may -be; by which, after serving their two years, they are exempt for the -rest of their lives, on war-parties or other excursions, or wherever -they may be—from all labour or degrading occupations, such as cooking, -making fires, &c. &c. - -These young men elect one from their numbers to be their master, and -all agree to obey his command whatever it may be, and which is given to -him by one of the chiefs of the tribe. On a certain day or season of -the year, they have to themselves a great feast, and preparatory to it -the above-mentioned dance. - -_Smoking horses_ (+plate+ 292), is another of the peculiar and very -curious customs of this tribe. When General Street and I, arrived at -Kee-o-kuks village, we were just in time to see this amusing scene, on -the prairie a little back of his village. The Foxes, who were making -up a war-party to go against the Sioux, and had not suitable horses -enough by twenty, had sent word to the Sacs, the day before (according -to an ancient custom), that they were coming on that day, at a certain -hour, to “smoke” that number of horses, and they must not fail to have -them ready. On that day, and at the hour, the twenty young men who were -beggars for horses, were on the spot, and seated themselves on the -ground in a circle, where they went to smoking. The villagers flocked -around them in a dense crowd, and soon after appeared on the prairie, -at half a mile distance, an equal number of young men of the Sac tribe, -who had agreed, each to give a horse, and who were then galloping them -about at full speed; and, gradually, as they went around in a circuit, -coming in nearer to the centre, until they were at last close around -the ring of young fellows seated on the ground. Whilst dashing about -thus, each one, with a heavy whip in his hand, as he came within reach -of the group on the ground, selected the one to whom he decided to -present his horse, and as he passed him, gave him the most tremendous -cut with his lash, over his naked shoulders; and as he darted around -again he plied the whip as before, and again and again, with a violent -“crack!” until the blood could be seen trickling down over his naked -shoulders, upon which he instantly dismounted, and placed the bridle -and whip in his hands, saying, “here, you are a beggar—I present you a -horse, but you will carry my mark on your back.” In this manner, they -were all in a little time “_whipped up_,” and each had a good horse -to ride home, and into battle. His necessity was such, that he could -afford to take the stripes and the scars as the price of the horse, -and the giver could afford to make the present for the satisfaction of -putting his mark upon the other, and of boasting of his liberality, -which he has always a right to do, when going into the dance, or on -other important occasions. - -The _Begging Dance_ (+plate+ 293), is a frequent amusement, and one -that has been practiced with some considerable success at this time, -whilst there have been so many distinguished and liberal visitors here. -It is got up by a number of desperate and long-winded fellows, who will -dance and yell their visitors into liberality; or, if necessary, laugh -them into it, by their strange antics, singing a song of importunity, -and extending their hands for presents, which they allege are to -gladden the hearts of the poor, and ensure a blessing to the giver. - -The Sacs and Foxes, like all other Indians, are fond of living along -the banks of rivers and streams; and like all others, are expert -swimmers and skilful canoemen. - -Their canoes, like those of the Sioux and many other tribes, are dug -out from a log, and generally made extremely light; and they dart them -through the coves and along the shores of the rivers, with astonishing -quickness. I was often amused at their freaks in their canoes, -whilst travelling; and I was induced to make a sketch of one which I -frequently witnessed, that of sailing with the aid of their blankets, -which the men carry; and when the wind is fair, stand in the bow of the -canoe and hold by two corners, with the other two under the foot or -tied to the leg (+plate+ 294); while the women sit in the other end of -the canoe, and steer it with their paddles. - -The _Discovery Dance_ (+plate+ 295), has been given here, amongst -various others, and pleased the bystanders very much; it was -exceedingly droll and picturesque, and acted out with a great deal of -pantomimic effect—without music, or any other noise than the patting -of their feet, which all came simultaneously on the ground, in perfect -time, whilst they were dancing forward two or four at a time, in a -skulking posture, overlooking the country, and professing to announce -the approach of animals or enemies which they have discovered, by -giving the signals back to the leader of the dance. - -_Dance to the Berdashe_ (+plate+ 296), is a very funny and amusing -scene, which happens once a year or oftener, as they choose, when -a feast is given to the “_Berdashe_,” as he is called in French, -(or _I-coo-coo-a_, in their own language), who is a man dressed in -woman’s clothes, as he is known to be all his life, and -for extraordinary privileges which he is known to possess, he is -driven to the most servile and degrading duties, which he is not -allowed to escape; and he being the only one of the tribe submitting -to this disgraceful degradation, is looked upon as _medicine_ and -sacred, and a feast is given to him annually; and initiatory to it, a -dance by those few young men of the tribe who can, as in the sketch, -dance forward and publicly make their boast (without the denial of -the Berdashe), that Ahg-whi-ee-choos-cum-me hi-anh-dwax-cumme-ke -on-daig-nun-ehow ixt. Che-ne-a’hkt ah-pex-ian I-coo-coo-a wi-an-gurotst -whow-itcht-ne-axt-ar-rah, ne-axt-gun-he h’dow-k’s dow-on-daig-o-ewhicht -nun-go-was-see. - -[Illustration: 293] - -[Illustration: 294] - -[Illustration: 295] - -[Illustration: 296] - -Such, and such only, are allowed to enter the dance and partake of -the feast, and as there are but a precious few in the tribe who have -legitimately gained this singular privilege, or willing to make a -public confession of it, it will be seen that the society consists of -quite a limited number of “odd fellows.” - -This is one of the most unaccountable and disgusting customs, that I -have ever met in the Indian country, and so far as I have been able -to learn, belongs only to the Sioux and Sacs and Foxes—perhaps it is -practiced by other tribes, but I did not meet with it; and for further -account of it I am constrained to refer the reader to the country where -it is practiced, and where I should wish that it might be extinguished -before it be more fully recorded. - -Dance to the _Medicine of the Brave_ (+plate+ 297). This is a custom -well worth recording, for the beautiful moral which is contained in it. -In this plate is represented a party of Sac warriors who have returned -victorious from battle, with scalps they have taken from their enemies, -but having lost one of their party, they appear and dance in front of -his wigwam, fifteen days in succession, about an hour on each day, when -the widow hangs his _medicine-bag_ on a green bush which she erects -before her door, under which she sits and cries, whilst the warriors -dance and brandish the scalps they have taken, and at the same time -recount the deeds of bravery of their deceased comrade in arms, whilst -they are throwing presents to the widow to heal her grief and afford -her the means of a living. - -The Sacs and Foxes are already drawing an annuity of 27,000 dollars, -for thirty years to come, in cash; and by the present Treaty just -concluded, that amount will be enlarged to 37,000 dollars per annum. -This Treaty with the Sacs and Foxes, held at Rock Island, was for -the purchase of a tract of land of 256,000 acres, lying on the Ioway -river, West of the Mississippi, a reserve which was made in the tract -of land conveyed to the Government by Treaty after the Sac war, and -known as the “Black Hawk purchase.” The Treaty has been completed by -Governor Dodge, by stipulating on the part of Government to pay them -seventy-five cents per acre for the reserve, (amounting to 192,000 -dollars), in the manner and form following:— - -Thirty thousand dollars to be paid in specie in June next, at the -Treaty-ground; and ten thousand dollars annually, for ten years to -come, at the same place, and in the same manner; and the remaining -sixty-two thousand, in the payment of their debts, and some little -donations to widows and half-breed children. The American Fur Company -was their principal creditor, whose account for goods advanced -on credit, they admitted, to the amount of nearly fifty thousand -dollars. It was stipulated by an article in the Treaty that one half -of these demands should be paid in cash as soon as the Treaty should -be ratified—and that five thousand dollars should be appropriated -annually, for their liquidation, until they were paid off. - -It was proposed by Kee-o-kuk in his speech (and it is a fact worthy of -being known, for such has been the proposition in every Indian Treaty -that I ever attended), that the first preparatory stipulation on the -part of Government, should be to pay the requisite sum of money to -satisfy all their creditors, who were then present, and whose accounts -were handed in, acknowledged and admitted. - -The price paid for this tract of land is a liberal one, comparatively -speaking, for the usual price heretofore paid for Indian lands, has -been one and a half or three quarter cents, (instead of seventy-five -cents) per acre, for land which Government has since sold out for ten -shillings. - -Even one dollar per acre would not have been too much to have paid -for this tract, for every acre of it can be sold in one year, for ten -shillings per acre, to actual settlers, so desirable and so fertile is -the tract of country purchased. These very people sold to Government -a great part of the rich states of Illinois and Missouri, at the low -rates above-mentioned; and this small tract being the last that they -can ever part with, without throwing themselves back upon their natural -enemies, it was no more than right that Government should deal with -them, as they have done, liberally. - -As an evidence of the immediate value of that tract of land to -Government, and, as a striking instance of the overwhelming torrent of -emigration, to the “Far West,” I will relate the following occurrence -which took place at the close of the Treaty:—After the Treaty was -signed and witnessed, Governor Dodge addressed a few very judicious -and admonitory sentences to the chiefs and braves, which he finished -by requesting them to move their families, and all their property from -this tract, within one month, which time he would allow them, to make -room for the whites. - -Considerable excitement, was created among the chiefs and braves, by -this suggestion, and a hearty laugh ensued, the cause of which was soon -after explained by one of them in the following manner:— - -“My father, we have to laugh—we require no time to move—we have all -left the lands already, and sold our wigwams to Chemokemons (white -men)—some for one hundred, and some for two hundred dollars, before -we came to this Treaty. There are already four hundred Chemokemons on -the land, and several hundred more on their way moving in; and three -days before we came away, one Chemokemon sold his wigwam to another -Chemokemon for two thousand dollars, to build a great town.” - -[Illustration: 297] - -In this wise is this fair land filling up, one hundred miles or more -West of the Mississippi—not with barbarians, but with people from the -East, enlightened and intelligent—with industry and perseverance that -will soon reap from the soil all the luxuries, and add to the surface, -all the taste and comforts of Eastern refinement. - -The Treaty itself, in all its forms, was a scene of interest, and -_Kee-o-kuk_ was the principal speaker on the occasion, being recognized -as the head chief of the tribe. He is a very subtle and dignified -man, and well fitted to wield the destinies of his nation. The poor -dethroned monarch, old Black Hawk, was present, and looked an object of -pity. With an old frock coat and brown hat on, and a cane in his hand, -he stood the whole time outside of the group, and in dumb and dismal -silence, with his sons by the side of him, and also his _quondam_, -aide-de-camp, Nah-pope, and the prophet. They were not allowed to -speak, nor even to sign the Treaty. _Nah-pope_ rose, however, and -commenced a very earnest speech on the subject of _temperance_! but -Governor Dodge ordered him to sit down, (as being out of order), -which probably saved him from a much more _peremptory command_ from -_Kee-o-kuk_, who was rising at that moment, with looks on his face -that the Devil himself might have shrunk from. This Letter I must end -here, observing, before I say adieu, that I have been catering for the -public during this summer at a _difficult_ (and almost _cruel_) rate; -and if, in my over-exertions to grasp at material for their future -entertainment, the cold hand of winter should be prematurely laid upon -me and my works in this Northern region, the world, I am sure, will be -disposed to pity, rather than censure me for my delay. - - [36] About two years after the above was written, and the portrait - painted, and whilst I was giving Lectures on the Customs of the - Indians, in the Stuyvesant Institute in New York, Kee-o-kuk and - his wife and son, with twenty more of the chiefs and warriors - of his tribe, visited the City of New York on their way to - Washington City, and were present one evening at my Lecture, - amidst an audience of 1500 persons. During the Lecture, I placed a - succession of portraits on my easel before the audience, and they - were successively recognized by the Indians as they were shewn; - and at last I placed this portrait of Kee-o-kuk before them, when - they all sprung up and hailed it with a piercing yell. After the - noise had subsided, Kee-o-kuk arose, and addressed the audience in - these words:—“My friends, I hope you will pardon my men for making - so much noise, as they were very much excited by seeing me on my - favourite war-horse, which they all recognized in a moment.” - - I had the satisfaction then of saying to the audience, that this - was very gratifying to me, inasmuch as many persons had questioned - the correctness of the picture of the horse; and some had said in - my Exhibition Room, “that it was an imposition—that no Indian on - the frontier rode so good a horse.” This was explained to Kee-o-kuk - by the interpreter, when he arose again quite indignant at the - thought that any one should doubt its correctness, and assured the - audience, “that his men, a number of whom never had heard that the - picture was painted, knew the horse the moment it was presented; - and further, he wished to know why Kee-o-kuk could not ride as good - a horse as any white man?” He here received a round of applause, - and the interpreter, Mr. Le Clair, rose and stated to the audience, - that he recognized the horse the moment it was shewn, and that it - was a faithful portrait of the horse that he sold to Kee-o-kuk for - 300 dollars, and that it was the finest horse on the frontier, - belonging either to red or white man. - - In a few minutes afterwards I was exhibiting several of my - paintings of buffalo-hunts, and describing the modes of slaying - them with bows and arrows, when I made the assertion which I had - often been in the habit of making, that there were many instances - where the arrow was thrown entirely through the buffalo’s body; and - that I had several times witnessed this astonishing feat. I saw - evidently by the motions of my audience, that many doubted the - correctness of my assertion; and I appealed to _Kee-o-kuk_, who - rose up when the thing was explained to him, and said, that it had - repeatedly happened amongst his tribe; and he believed that one - of his young men by his side had done it. The young man instantly - stepped up on the bench, and took a bow from under his robe, with - which he told the audience he had driven his arrow quite through a - buffalo’s body. And, there being forty of the Sioux from the Upper - Missouri also present, the same question was put to them, when the - chief arose, and addressing himself to the audience, said that it - was a thing very often done by the hunters in his tribe. - - - - - LETTER—No. 57. - - FORT MOULTRIE, _SOUTH CAROLINA_. - - -Since the date of my last Letter, I have been a wanderer as usual, -and am now at least 2000 miles from the place where it was dated. At -this place are held 250 of the Seminolees and Euchees, prisoners of -war, who are to be kept here awhile longer, and transferred to the -country assigned them, 700 miles West of the Mississippi, and 1400 -from this. The famous _Os-ce-o-la_ is amongst the prisoners; and also -_Mick-e-no-pah_, the head chief of the tribe, and _Cloud_, _King -Phillip_, and several others of the distinguished men of the nation, -who have celebrated themselves in the war that is now waging with the -United States’ Government. - -There is scarcely any need of my undertaking in an epistle of this -kind, to give a full account of this tribe, of their early history—of -their former or present location—or of their present condition, and the -disastrous war they are now waging with the United States’ Government, -who have held an invading army in their country for four or five years, -endeavouring to dispossess them and compel them to remove to the West, -in compliance with Treaty stipulations. These are subjects generally -understood already (being matters of history), and I leave them to the -hands of those who will do them more complete justice than I could -think of doing at this time, with the little space that I could allow -them; in the confident hope that justice may be meted out to them, at -least by the historian, if it should not be by their great Guardian, -who takes it upon herself, as with all the tribes, affectionately to -_call_ them her “_red children_.” - -For those who know nothing of the Seminolees, it may be proper for me -here just to remark, that they are a tribe of three or four thousand; -occupying the peninsula of Florida—and speaking the language of the -Creeks, of whom I have heretofore spoken, and who were once a part of -the same tribe. - -The word Seminolee is a Creek word, signifying runaways; a name which -was given to a part of the Creek nation, who emigrated in a body to a -country farther South, where they have lived to the present day; and -continually extended their dominions by overrunning the once numerous -tribe that occupied the Southern extremity of the Florida Cape, called -the Euchees; whom they have at last nearly annihilated, and taken the -mere remnant of them in, as a part of their tribe. With this tribe -the Government have been engaged in deadly and disastrous warfare for -four or five years; endeavouring to remove them from their lands, in -compliance with a Treaty stipulation, which the Government claims to -have been justly made, and which the Seminolees aver, was not. Many -millions of money, and some hundreds of lives of officers and men have -already been expended in the attempt to dislodge them; and much more -will doubtless be yet spent before they can be removed from their -almost impenetrable swamps and hiding-places, to which they can, for -years to come, retreat; and from which they will be enabled, and no -doubt disposed, in their exasperated state, to make continual sallies -upon the unsuspecting and defenceless inhabitants of the country; -carrying their relentless feelings to be reeked in cruel vengeance on -the unoffending and innocent.[37] - -[Illustration: 298] - -The prisoners who are held here, to the number of 250, men, women -and children, have been captured during the recent part of this -warfare, and amongst them the distinguished personages whom I named -a few moments since; of these, the most conspicuous at this time is -Os-ce-o-la (+plate+ 298), commonly called Powell, as he is generally -supposed to be a half-breed, the son of a white man (by that name), and -a Creek woman. - -I have painted him precisely in the costume, in which he stood for his -picture, even to a string and a trinket. He wore three ostrich feathers -in his head, and a turban made of a vari-coloured cotton shawl—and his -dress was chiefly of calicoes, with a handsome bead sash or belt around -his waist, and his rifle in his hand. - -This young man is, no doubt, an extraordinary character, as he has been -for some years reputed, and doubtless looked upon by the Seminolees as -the master spirit and leader of the tribe, although he is not a chief. -From his boyhood, he had led an energetic and desperate sort of life, -which had secured for him a conspicuous position in society; and when -the desperate circumstances of war were agitating his country, he at -once took a conspicuous and decided part; and in some way whether he -deserved it or not, acquired an influence and a name that soon sounded -to the remotest parts of the United States, and amongst the Indian -tribes, to the Rocky Mountains. - -This gallant fellow, who was, undoubtedly, _captured_ a few months -since, with several of his chiefs and warriors, was at first brought -in, to Fort Mellon in Florida, and afterwards sent to this place for -safe-keeping, where he is grieving with a broken spirit, and ready to -die, cursing white man, no doubt, to the end of his breath. - -The surgeon of the post, Dr. Weedon, who has charge of him, and has -been with him ever since he was taken prisoner, has told me from day to -day, that he will not live many weeks; and I have my doubts whether he -will, from the rapid decline I have observed in his face and his flesh -since I arrived here. - -During the time that I have been here, I have occupied a large room in -the officers’ quarters, by the politeness of Captain Morrison, who has -command of the post, and charge of the prisoners; and on every evening, -after painting all day at their portraits, I have had Os-ce-o-la, -Mick-e-no-pa, Cloud, Co-a-had-jo, King Phillip, and others in my room, -until a late hour at night, where they have taken great pains to give -me an account of the war, and the mode in which they were captured, of -which they complain bitterly. - -I am fully convinced from all that I have seen, and learned from the -lips of Os-ce-o-la, and from the chiefs who are around him, that he is -a most extraordinary man, and one entitled to a better fate. - -In stature he is about at mediocrity, with an elastic and graceful -movement; in his face he is good looking, with rather an effeminate -smile; but of so peculiar a character, that the world may be ransacked -over without finding another just like it. In his manners, and all his -movements in company, he is polite and gentlemanly, though all his -conversation is entirely in his own tongue; and his general appearance -and actions, those of a full-blooded and wild Indian. - -In +plate+ 299, is a portrait of _Ye-how-lo-gee_ (the cloud), generally -known by the familiar name of “_Cloud_.” This is one of the chiefs, and -a very good-natured, jolly man, growing fat in his imprisonment, where -he gets enough to eat, and an occasional drink of whiskey from the -officers, with whom he is a great favourite. - -_Ee-mat-la_ (“King Philip,” +plate+ 300) is also a very aged chief, who -has been a man of great notoriety and distinction in his time, but has -now got too old for further warlike enterprize.[38] - -_Co-ee-ha-jo_ (+plate+ 301), is another chief who has been a long time -distinguished in the tribe, having signalized himself very much by his -feats in the present war. - -[Illustration: 299 300] - -[Illustration: 301 302] - -_La-shee_ (the licker, +plate+ 302), commonly called “Creek Billy,” is -a distinguished brave of the tribe, and a very handsome fellow. - -+Plate+ 303, is the portrait of a Seminolee boy, about nine years of -age;[39] and +plate+ 304, a Seminolee woman. - -_Mick-e-no-pah_ (+plate+ 305), is the head chief of the tribe, and a -very lusty and dignified man. He took great pleasure in being present -every day in my room, whilst I was painting the others; but positively -refused to be painted, until he found that a bottle of whiskey, and -another of wine, which I kept on my mantelpiece, by permission of my -kind friend Captain Morrison, were only to deal out their occasional -kindnesses to those who sat for their portraits; when he at length -agreed to be painted, “if I could make a fair likeness of his _legs_,” -which he had very tastefully dressed in a handsome pair of red -leggings, and upon which I at once began, (as he sat cross-legged), by -painting _them_ on the lower part of the canvass, leaving room for his -body and head above; all of which, through the irresistible influence -of a few kindnesses from my bottle of wine, I soon had fastened to the -canvass, where they will firmly stand I trust, for some hundreds of -years. - -Since I finished my portrait of Os-ce-o-la, and since writing the first -part of this Letter, he has been extremely sick, and lies so yet, with -an alarming attack of the quinsey or putrid sore throat, which will -probably end his career in a few days. Two or three times the surgeon -has sent for the officers of the Garrison and myself, to come and see -him “_dying_”—we were with him the night before last till the middle of -the night, every moment expecting his death; but he has improved during -the last twenty-four hours, and there is some slight prospect of his -recovery.[40] The steamer starts to-morrow morning for New York, and I -must use the opportunity; so I shall from necessity, leave the subject -of Os-ce-o-la and the Seminolees for future consideration. Adieu. - -[Illustration: 303] - -[Illustration: 304] - -[Illustration: 305] - - [37] The above Letter was written in the winter of 1838, and by the - Secretary at War’s Report, a year and a half ago, it is seen that - 36,000,000 of dollars had been already expended in the Seminolee - war, as well as the lives of 12 or 1400 officers and men, and - defenceless inhabitants, who have fallen victims to the violence of - the enraged savages and diseases of the climate. And at the present - date, August, 1841, I see by the American papers, that the war is - being prosecuted at this time with its wonted vigour; and that - the best troops in our country, and the lives of our most valued - officers are yet jeopardised in the deadly swamps of Florida, with - little more certainty of a speedy termination of the war, than - there appeared five years ago. - - The world will pardon me for saying no more of this inglorious - war, for it will be seen that I am too near the end of my book, to - afford it the requisite space; and as an American citizen, I would - pray, amongst thousands of others, that all books yet to be made, - might have as good an excuse for leaving it out. - - - [38] This veteran old warrior died a few weeks after I painted his - portrait, whilst on his way, with the rest of the prisoners, to the - Arkansas. - - - [39] This remarkably fine boy, by the name of _Os-ce-o-la - Nick-a-no-chee_, has recently been brought from America to London, - by Dr. Welch, an Englishman, who has been for several years - residing in Florida. The boy it seems, was captured by the United - States troops, at the age of six years: but how my friend the - Doctor got possession of him, and leave to bring him away I never - have heard. He is acting a very praiseworthy part however, by the - paternal fondness he evinces for the child, and fairly proves, - by the very great pains he is taking with his education. The - doctor has published recently, a very neat volume, containing the - boy’s history; and also a much fuller account of Os-ce-o-la, and - incidents of the Florida war, to which I would refer the reader. - - - [40] From accounts which left Fort Moultrie a few days after I - returned home, it seems, that this ill-fated warrior died, a - prisoner, the next morning after I left him. And the following - very interesting account of his last moments, was furnished me by - Dr. Weedon, the surgeon who was by him, with the officers of the - garrison, at Os-ce-o-la’s request. - - “About half an hour before he died, he seemed to be sensible that - he was dying; and although he could not speak, he signified by - signs that he wished me to send for the chiefs and for the officers - of the post, whom I called in. He made signs to his wives (of whom - he had two, and also two fine little children by his side,) to - go and bring his full dress, which he wore in time of war; which - having been brought in, he rose up in his bed, which was on the - floor, and put on his shirt, his leggings and moccasins—girded - on his war-belt—his bullet-pouch and powder-horn, and laid his - knife by the side of him on the floor. He then called for his red - paint, and his looking-glass, which was held before him, when - he deliberately painted one half of his face, his neck and his - throat—his wrists—the backs of his hands, and the handle of his - knife, red with vermilion; a custom practiced when the irrevocable - oath of war and destruction is taken. His knife he then placed in - its sheath, under his belt; and he carefully arranged his turban - on his head, and his three ostrich plumes that he was in the habit - of wearing in it. Being thus prepared in full dress, he laid down - a few minutes to recover strength sufficient, when he rose up as - before, and with most benignant and pleasing smiles, extended his - hand to me and to all of the officers and chiefs that were around - him; and shook hands with us all in dead silence; and also with his - wives and his little children; he made a signal for them to lower - him down upon his bed, which was done, and he then slowly drew from - his war-belt, his scalping-knife, which he firmly grasped in his - right hand, laying it across the other, on his breast, and in a - moment smiled away his last breath, without a struggle or a groan.” - - - - - LETTER—No. 58. - - NORTH WESTERN FRONTIER. - - -Having finished my travels in the “Far West” for awhile, and being -detained a little time, sans occupation, in my nineteenth or twentieth -transit of what, in common parlance is denominated the Frontier; I -have seated myself down to give some further account of it, and of the -doings and habits of people, both red and white, who live upon it. - -The Frontier may properly be denominated the fleeting and unsettled -line extending from the Gulf of Mexico to the Lake of the Woods, -a distance of three thousand miles; which indefinitely separates -civilized from Indian population—a moving barrier, where the -unrestrained and natural propensities of two people are concentrated, -in an atmosphere of lawless iniquity, that offends Heaven, and holds in -mutual ignorance of each other, the honourable and virtuous portions of -two people, which seem destined never to meet. - -From what has been said in the foregoing epistles, the reader will -agree that I have pretty closely adhered to my promise made in the -commencement of them; that I should confine my remarks chiefly to -people I have visited, and customs that I have _seen_, rather than -by taking up his time with matter that might be gleaned from books. -He will also agree, that I have principally devoted my pages, as I -promised, to an account of the condition and customs of those Indians -whom I have found entirely beyond the Frontier, acting and living -as Nature taught them to live and act, without the examples, and -consequently without the taints of civilized encroachments. - -He will, I flatter myself, also yield me some credit for devoting -the time and space I have occupied in my first appeal to the world, -entirely to the condition and actions of the _living_, rather than -fatiguing him with _theories_ of the living or the dead. I have -theories enough of my own, and have as closely examined the condition -and customs of these people on the Frontier, as of those living beyond -it—and also their past and present, and prospective history; but the -reader will have learned, that my chief object in these Letters, has -been not only to describe what I have _seen_, but of _those_ things, -such as I deemed the most novel and least understood; which has of -course confined my remarks heretofore, mostly to the character and -condition of those tribes living entirely in a state of nature. - -And as I have now a little leisure, and no particular tribes before -me to speak of, the reader will allow me to glance my eye over the -whole Indian country for awhile, both along the Frontier and beyond -it; taking a hasty and brief survey of them, and their prospects in -the aggregate; and by not _seeing_ quite as distinctly as I have been -in the habit of doing heretofore, taking pains to tell a little more -emphatically what I _think_, and what I have _thought_ of those things -that I have seen, and yet have told but in part. - -I have seen a vast many of these wild people in my travels, it will be -admitted by all. And I have had toils and difficulties, and dangers to -encounter in paying them my visits; yet I have had my pleasures as I -went along, in shaking their friendly hands, that never had felt the -contaminating touch of _money_, or the withering embrace of pockets; -I have shared the comforts of their hospitable wigwams, and always -have been preserved unharmed in their country. And if I have spoken, -or am to speak of them, with a seeming bias, the reader will know what -allowance to make for me, who am standing as the champion of a people, -who have treated me kindly, of whom I feel bound to speak well; and who -have no means of speaking for themselves. - -Of the dead, to speak kindly, and to their character to render justice, -is always a praiseworthy act; but it is yet far more charitable to -extend the hand of liberality, or to hold the scale of justice, to the -_living_ who are able to feel the benefit of it. Justice to the dead is -generally a charity, inasmuch as it is a kindness to living friends; -but to the poor Indian dead, if it is meted out at all, which is seldom -the case, it is thrown to the grave with him, where he has generally -gone without friends left behind him to inherit the little fame that -is reluctantly allowed him while living, and much less likely to be -awarded to him when dead. Of the thousands and millions, therefore, of -these poor fellows who are dead, and whom we have thrown into their -graves, there is nothing that I could now say, that would do them any -good, or that would not answer the world as well at a future time as at -the present; while there is a debt that we are owing to those of them -who are yet living, which I think justly demands our attention, and all -our sympathies at this moment. - -The peculiar condition in which we are obliged to contemplate these -most unfortunate people at this time—hastening to destruction and -extinction, as they evidently are, lays an uncompromising claim upon -the sympathies of the civilized world, and gives a deep interest and -value to such records as are truly made—setting up, and perpetuating -from the life, their true native character and customs. - -If the great family of North American Indians were all dying by a -scourge or epidemic of the country, it would be natural, and a virtue, -to weep for them; but merely to sympathize with them (and but partially -to do that) when they are dying at our hands, and rendering their glebe -to our possession, would be to subvert the simplest law of Nature, and -turn civilized man, with all his boasted virtues, back to worse than -savage barbarism. - -Justice to a nation who are dying, need never be expected from -the hands of their destroyers; and where injustice and injury are -visited upon the weak and defenceless, from ten thousand hands—from -Governments—monopolies and individuals—the offence is lost in the -inseverable iniquity in which all join, and for which nobody is -answerable, unless it be for their respective amounts, at a final day -of retribution. - -Long and cruel experience has well proved that it is impossible for -enlightened Governments or money-making individuals to deal with these -credulous and unsophisticated people, without the sin of injustice; -but the humble biographer or historian, who goes amongst them from a -different motive, _may_ come out of their country with his hands and -his conscience clean, and himself an anomaly, a white man dealing with -Indians, and meting out justice to them; which I hope it may be my good -province to do with my pen and my brush, with which, at least, I will -have the singular and valuable satisfaction of having done them no harm. - -With this view, and a desire to render justice to my readers also, I -have much yet to say of the general appearance and character of the -Indians—of their condition and treatment; and far more, I fear, than -I can allot to the little space I have designed for the completion of -these epistles. - -Of the _general appearance_ of the North American Indians, much might -be yet said, that would be new and instructive. In _stature_, as I have -already said, there are some of the tribes that are considerably above -the ordinary height of man, and others that are evidently below it; -allowing their average to be about equal to that of their fellow-men -in the civilized world. In girth they are less, and lighter in their -limbs, and almost entirely free from corpulency or useless flesh. Their -bones are lighter, their skulls are thinner, and their muscles less -hard than those of their civilized neighbours, excepting in the legs -and feet, where they are brought into more continual action by their -violent exercise on foot and on horseback, which swells the muscles -and gives them great strength in those limbs, which is often quite -as conspicuous as the extraordinary development of muscles in the -shoulders and arms of our labouring men. - -Although the Indians are generally narrow in the shoulders, and less -powerful with the arms, yet it does not always happen by any means, -that they are so effeminate as they look, and so widely inferior in -brachial strength, as the spectator is apt to believe, from the smooth -and rounded appearance of their limbs. The contrast between one of our -labouring men when he denudes his limbs, and the figure of a naked -Indian is to be sure very striking, and entirely too much so, for the -actual difference in the power of the two persons. There are several -reasons for this which account for so disproportionate a contrast, and -should be named. - -The labouring man, who is using his limbs the greater part of his life -in lifting heavy weights, &c. sweats them with the weight of clothes -which he has on him, which softens the integuments and the flesh, -leaving the muscles to stand out in more conspicuous relief when they -are exposed; whilst the Indian, who exercises his limbs for the most -of his life, denuded and exposed to the air, gets over his muscles a -thicker and more compact layer of integuments which hide them from the -view, leaving the casual spectator, who sees them only at rest, to -suppose them too decidedly inferior to those which are found amongst -people of his own colour. Of muscular strength in the legs, I have met -many of the most extraordinary instances in the Indian country, that -ever I have seen in my life; and I have watched and studied such for -hours together, with utter surprise and admiration, in the violent -exertions of their dances, where they leap and jump with every nerve -strung, and every muscle swelled, till their legs will often look like -a bundle of ropes, rather than a mass of human flesh. And from all that -I have seen, I am inclined to say, that whatever differences there may -be between the North American Indians and their civilized neighbours -in the above respects, they are decidedly the results of different -habits of life and modes of education rather than of any difference in -constitution. And I would also venture the assertion, that he who would -see the Indian in a condition to judge of his muscles, must see him -in motion; and he who would get a perfect study for an Hercules or an -Atlas, should take a stone-mason for the upper part of his figure, and -a Camanchee or a Blackfoot Indian from the waist downwards to the feet. - -There is a general and striking character in the facial outline of the -North American Indians, which is bold and free, and would seem at once -to stamp them as distinct from natives of other parts of the world. -Their noses are generally prominent and aquiline—and the whole face, if -divested of paint and of copper-colour, would seem to approach to the -bold and European character. Many travellers have thought that their -eyes were smaller than those of Europeans; and there is good cause for -one to believe so, if he judges from first impressions, without taking -pains to inquire into the truth and causes of things. I have been -struck, as most travellers, no doubt have, with the want of expansion -and apparent smallness of the Indians’ eyes, which I have found upon -examination, to be principally the effect of continual exposure to the -rays of the sun and the wind, without the shields that are used by the -civilized world; and also when in-doors, and free from those causes, -subjected generally to one more distressing, and calculated to produce -similar results, the smoke that almost continually hangs about their -wigwams, which necessarily contracts the lids of the eyes, forbidding -that full flame and expansion of the eye, that the cool and clear -shades of our civilized domicils are calculated to promote. - -The teeth of the Indians are generally regular and sound, and -wonderfully preserved to old age, owing, no doubt, to the fact that -they live without the spices of life—without saccharine and without -salt, which are equally destructive to teeth, in civilized communities. -Their teeth, though sound, are not white, having a yellowish cast; but -for the same reason that a negro’s teeth are “like ivory,” they look -white—set as they are in bronze, as any one with a _tolerable_ set of -teeth can easily test, by painting his face the colour of an Indian, -and grinning for a moment in his looking-glass. - -_Beards_ they generally have not—esteeming them great vulgarities, -and using every possible means to eradicate them whenever they are so -unfortunate as to be annoyed with them. Different writers have been -very much at variance on this subject ever since the first accounts -given of these people; and there seems still an unsatisfied curiosity -on the subject, which I would be glad to say that I could put entirely -at rest. - -From the best information that I could obtain amongst forty-eight -tribes that I have visited, I feel authorized to say, that, amongst -the wild tribes, where they have made no efforts to imitate white men, -at least, the proportion of eighteen out of twenty, by nature are -entirely without the appearance of a beard; and of the very few who -have them by nature, nineteen out of twenty eradicate it by plucking it -out several times in succession, precisely at the age of puberty, when -its growth is successfully arrested; and occasionally one may be seen, -who has omitted to destroy it at that time, and subjects his chin to -the repeated pains of its extractions, which he is performing with a -pair of clamshells or other tweezers, nearly every day of his life—and -occasionally again, but still more rarely, one is found, who from -carelessness or inclination has omitted both of these, and is allowing -it to grow to the length of an inch or two on his chin, in which case -it is generally very soft, and exceedingly sparse. Wherever there is a -cross of the blood with the European or African, which is frequently -the case along the Frontier, a proportionate beard is the result; and -it is allowed to grow, or is plucked out with much toil, and with great -pain. - -There has been much speculation, and great variety of opinions, as -to the results of the intercourse between the European and African -population with the Indians on the borders; and I would not undertake -to decide so difficult a question, though I cannot help but express -my opinion, which is made up from the vast many instances that I have -seen, that generally speaking, these half-breed specimens are in both -instances a decided deterioration from the two stocks, from which they -have sprung; which I grant may be the consequence that generally flows -from illicit intercourse, and from the inferior rank in which they are -held by both, (which is mostly confined to the lowest and most degraded -portions of society), rather than from any constitutional objection, -necessarily growing out of the amalgamation. - -The finest built and most powerful men that I have ever yet seen, have -been some of the last-mentioned, the negro and the North American -Indian mixed, of equal blood. These instances are rare to be sure, yet -are occasionally to be found amongst the Seminolees and Cherokees, -and also amongst the Camanchees, even, and the Caddoes; and I account -for it in this way: From the slave-holding States to the heart of the -country of a wild tribe of Indians, through almost boundless and -impassable wilds and swamps, for hundreds of miles, it requires a -negro of extraordinary leg and courage and perseverance, to travel; -absconding from his master’s fields, to throw himself into a tribe -of wild and hostile Indians, for the enjoyment of his liberty; of -which there are occasional instances, and when they succeed, they are -admired by the savage; and as they come with a good share of the tricks -and arts of civilization, they are at once looked upon by the tribe, -as extraordinary and important personages; and generally marry the -daughters of chiefs, thus uniting theirs with the best blood in the -nation, which produce these remarkably fine and powerful men that I -have spoken of above. - -Although the Indians of North America, where dissipation and disease -have not got amongst them, undoubtedly are a longer lived and healthier -race, and capable of enduring far more bodily privation and pain, -than civilized people can; yet I do not believe that the differences -are constitutional, or anything more than the results of different -circumstances, and a different education. As an evidence in support -of this assertion, I will allude to the hundreds of men whom I have -seen, and travelled with, who have been for several years together in -the Rocky Mountains, in the employment of the Fur Companies; where -they have lived exactly upon the Indian system, continually exposed -to the open air, and the weather, and, to all the disappointments and -privations peculiar to that mode of life; and I am bound to say, that I -never saw a more hardy and healthy race of men in my life, whilst they -remain in the country; nor any who fall to pieces quicker when they get -back to confined and dissipated life, which they easily fall into, when -they return to their own country. - -The Indian women who are obliged to lead lives of severe toil and -drudgery, become exceedingly healthy and robust, giving easy birth -and strong constitutions to their children; which, in a measure, may -account for the simplicity and fewness of their diseases, which in -infancy and childhood are very seldom known to destroy life. - -If there were anything like an equal proportion of deaths amongst the -Indian children, that is found in the civilized portions of the world, -the Indian country would long since have been depopulated, on account -of the decided disproportion of children they produce. It is a very -rare occurrence for an Indian woman to be “_blessed_” with more than -four or five children during her life; and generally speaking, they -seem contented with two or three; when in civilized communities it -is no uncommon thing for a woman to be the mother of ten or twelve, -and sometimes to bear two or even three at a time; of which I never -recollect to have met an instance during all my extensive travels in -the Indian country, though it is possible that I might occasionally -have passed them. - -For so striking a dissimilarity as there evidently is between these -people, and those living according to the more artificial modes of -life, in a subject, seemingly alike natural to both, the reader will -perhaps expect me to furnish some rational and decisive causes. Several -very plausible reasons have been advanced for such a deficiency on the -part of the Indians, by authors who have written on the subject, but -whose opinions I should be very slow to adopt; inasmuch as they have -been based upon the Indian’s inferiority, (as the same authors have -taken great pains to prove in most other respects,) to their pale-faced -neighbours. - -I know of but one decided cause for this difference, which I would -venture to advance, and which I confidently believe to be the principal -obstacle to a more rapid increase of their families; which is the very -great length of time that the women submit to lactation, generally -carrying their children at the breast to the age of two, and sometimes -three, and even four years! - -The astonishing ease and success with which the Indian women pass -through the most painful and most trying of all human difficulties, -which fall exclusively to the lot of the gentler sex; is quite equal, -I have found from continued enquiry, to the representations that -have often been made to the world by other travellers, who have gone -before me. Many people have thought this a wise provision of Nature, -in framing the constitutions of these people, to suit the exigencies -of their exposed lives, where they are beyond the pale of skilful -surgeons, and the nice little comforts that visit the sick beds in the -enlightened world; but I never have been willing to give to Nature -quite so much credit, for stepping aside of her own rule, which I -believe to be about half way between—from which I am inclined to think -that the refinements of art, and its spices, have led the civilized -world into the pains and perils of one unnatural extreme; whilst the -extraordinary fatigue and exposure, and habits of Indian life, have -greatly released them from natural pains, on the other. With this -view of the case, I fully believe that Nature has dealt everywhere -impartially; and that, if from their childhood, our mothers had, like -the Indian women, carried loads like beasts of burthen—and those over -the longest journeys, and highest mountains—had swam the broadest -rivers—and galloped about for months and even years of their lives, -_astride_ of their horse’s backs; we should have taxed them as lightly -in stepping into the world, as an Indian pappoose does its mother, who -ties her horse under the shade of a tree for half an hour, and before -night, overtakes her travelling companions with her infant in her arms, -which has often been the case. - -As to the probable origin of the North American Indians, which is one -of the first questions that suggests itself to the enquiring mind, -and will be perhaps, the last to be settled; I shall have little to -say in this place, for the reason that so abstruse a subject, and -one so barren of positive proof, would require in its discussion too -much circumstantial evidence for my allowed limits; which I am sure -the world will agree will be filled up much more consistently with -the avowed spirit of this work, by treating of that which admits -of an abundance of proof—their actual existence, their customs—and -misfortunes; and the suggestions of modes for the amelioration of their -condition. - -For a professed philanthropist, I should deem it cruel and hypocritical -to waste time and space in the discussion of a subject, ever so -interesting, (though unimportant), when the present condition and -prospects of these people are calling so loudly upon the world for -justice, and for mercy; and when their evanescent existence and customs -are turning, as it were, on a wheel before us, but soon to be lost; -whilst the mystery of their origin can as well be fathomed at a future -day as now, and recorded with their exit. - -Very many people look upon the savages of this vast country, as an -“_Anomaly in Nature_;” and their existence and origin, and locality, -things that needs must be at once accounted for. - -Now, if the world will allow me, (and perhaps they may think me -singular for saying it), I would say, that these things are, in my -opinion, natural and simple; and, like all other works of Nature, -destined to remain a mystery to mortal man; and if man be anywhere -entitled to the name of an anomaly, it is he who has departed the -farthest from the simple walks and actions of his nature. - -It seems natural to enquire at once who these people are, and from -whence they came; but this question is natural, only because we are out -of nature. To an Indian, such a question would seem absurd—he would -stand aghast and astounded at the _anomaly_ before _him_—himself upon -his own ground, “where the Great Spirit made him”—hunting in his own -forests; if an exotic, with a “pale face,” and from across the ocean, -should stand before him, to ask him where he came from, and how he got -there! - -I would invite this querist, this votary of science, to sit upon a log -with his red acquaintance, and answer the following questions:— - -“You white man, where you come from?” - -“From England, across the water.” - -“How white man come to see England? how you face come to get white, ha?” - -I never yet have been made to see the _necessity_ of showing how these -people _came here_, or that they _came here_ at all; which might easily -have been done, by the way of Behring’s Straits from the North of Asia. -I should much rather dispense with such a _necessity_, than undertake -the other necessities that must follow the establishment of this; -those of showing how the savages paddled or drifted in their canoes -from this Continent, after they had got here, or from the Asiatic -Coast, and landed on all the South Sea Islands, which we find to be -inhabited nearly to the South Pole. For myself I am quite satisfied -with the fact, which is a thing certain, and to be relied on, that this -Continent was found peopled in every part, by savages; and so, nearly -every Island in the South Seas, at the distance of several thousand -miles from either Continent; and I am quite willing to surrender the -mystery to abler pens than my own—to theorists who may have the time, -and the means to prove to the world, how those rude people wandered -there in their bark canoes, without water for their subsistence, or -compasses to guide them on their way. - -The North American Indians, and all the inhabitants of the South Sea -Islands, speaking some two or three hundred different languages, -entirely dissimilar, may have all sprung from one stock; and the -Almighty, after creating man. for some reason that is unfathomable -to human wisdom, might have left the whole vast universe, with its -severed continents, and its thousand distant isles everywhere teeming -with necessaries and luxuries, spread out for man’s use; and there -to vegetate and rot, for hundreds and even thousands of centuries, -until ultimate, _abstract_ accident should throw him amongst these -infinite mysteries of creation; the least and most insignificant of -which have been created and placed by design. Human reason is weak, -and human ignorance is palpable, when man attempts to approach these -unsearchable mysteries; and I consider human discretion well applied, -when it beckons him back to things that he can comprehend; where his -reason, and all his mental energies can be employed for the advancement -and benefit of his species. With this conviction, I feel disposed to -retreat to the ground that I have before occupied—to the Indians, as -they are, and _where_ they are; recording amongst them living evidences -whilst they live, for the use of abler theorists than myself—who may -labour to establish their origin, which may be as well (and perhaps -better) done, a century hence, than at the present day. - -The reader is apprised, that I have nearly filled the limits allotted -to these epistles; and I assure him that a vast deal which I have seen -must remain untold—whilst from the same necessity, I must tell him much -less than I think, and beg to be pardoned if I withhold, till some -future occasion, many of my reasons for, _thinking_. - -I believe, with many others, that the North American Indians are a -mixed people—that they have Jewish blood in their veins, though I would -not assert, as some have undertaken to prove, “_that they are Jews_,” -or that they are “_the ten lost tribes of Israel_.” From the character -and conformation of their heads, I am compelled to look upon them as an -amalgam race, but still savages; and from many of their customs, which -seem to me, to be peculiarly Jewish, as well as from the character of -their heads, I am forced to believe that some part of those ancient -tribes, who have been dispersed by Christians in so many ways, and -in so many different eras, have found their way To this country, -where they have entered amongst the native stock, and have lived and -intermarried with the Indians, until their identity has been swallowed -up and lost in the greater numbers of their new acquaintance, save the -bold and decided character which they have bequeathed to the Indian -races; and such of their customs as the Indians were pleased to adopt, -and which they have preserved to the present day. - -I am induced to believe thus from the very many customs which I have -witnessed amongst them, that appear to be decidedly Jewish; and many of -them so peculiarly so, that it would seem almost impossible, or at all -events, exceedingly improbable, that two people in a state of nature -should have hit upon them, and practiced them exactly alike. - -The world need not expect me to _decide_ so interesting and difficult -a question; but I am sure they will be disposed to hear simply my -opinion, which I give in this place, quite briefly, and with the utmost -respectful deference to those who think differently. I claim no merit -whatever, for advancing such an opinion, which is not new, having been -in several works advanced to the world by far abler pens than my own, -with volumes of evidence, to the catalogue of which, I feel quite -sure I shall be able to add some new proofs in the proper place. If -I could establish the fact by positive proof, I should claim a great -deal of applause from the world, and should, no doubt, obtain it; but, -like everything relating to the origin and early history of these -unchronicled people, I believe this question is one that will never be -settled, but will remain open for the opinions of the world, which will -be variously given, and that upon circumstantial evidence alone. - -I am compelled to believe that the Continent of America, and each -of the other Continents, have had their aboriginal stocks, peculiar -in colour and in character—and that each of these native stocks has -undergone repeated mutations (at periods, of which history has kept no -records), by erratic colonies from abroad, that have been engrafted -upon them—mingling with them, and materially affecting their original -character. By this process, I believe that the North American Indians, -even where we find them in their wildest condition, are several -degrees removed from their original character; and that one of their -principal alloys has been a part of those dispersed people, who have -mingled their blood and their customs with them, and even in their new -disguise, seem destined to be followed up with oppression and endless -persecution. - -The first and most striking fact amongst the North American Indians -that refers us to the Jews, is that of their worshipping in all parts, -the Great Spirit, or Jehovah, as the Hebrews were ordered to do by -Divine precept, instead of a plurality of gods, as ancient pagans and -heathens did—and their idols of their own formation. The North American -Indians, are nowhere _idolaters_—they appeal at once to the Great -Spirit, and know of no mediator, either personal or symbolical. - -The Indian tribes are everywhere divided into bands, with chiefs, -symbols, badges, &c., and many of their modes of worship I have found -exceedingly like those of the Mosaic institution. The Jews had their -_sanctum sanctorums_, and so may it be said the Indians have, in their -council or medicine-houses, which are always held as sacred places. As -the Jews had, they have their high-priests and their prophets. Amongst -the Indians as amongst the ancient Hebrews, the women are not allowed -to worship with the men—and in all cases also, they eat separately. -The Indians everywhere, like the Jews, believe that they are the -favourite people of the Great Spirit, and they are certainly, like -those ancient people, _persecuted_, as every man’s hand seems raised -against them—and they, like the Jews, destined to be dispersed over the -world, and seemingly scourged by the Almighty, and despised of man. - -In their marriages, the Indians, as did the ancient Jews, uniformly -buy their wives by giving presents—and in many tribes, very closely -resemble them in other forms and ceremonies of their marriages. - -In their preparations for war, and in peace-making, they are strikingly -similar. In their treatment of the sick, burial of the dead and -mourning, they are also similar. - -In their bathing and ablutions, at all seasons of the year, as a part -of their religious observances—having separate places for men and women -to perform these immersions—they resemble again. And the custom amongst -the women, of absenting themselves during the lunar influences, is -exactly consonant to the Mosaic law. This custom of _separation_ is an -uniform one amongst the different tribes, as far as I have seen them in -their primitive state, and be it Jewish, natural or conventional, it is -an indispensable form with these wild people, who are setting to the -civilized world, this and many other examples of decency and propriety, -only to be laughed at by their wiser neighbours, who, rather than award -to the red man any merit for them, have taken exceeding pains to call -them but the results of ignorance and superstition. - -So, in nearly every family of a tribe, will be found a small lodge, -large enough to contain one person, which is erected at a little -distance from the family lodge, and occupied by the wife or the -daughter, to whose possession circumstances allot it; where she dwells -alone until she is prepared to move back, and in the meantime the -touch of her hand or her finger to the chief’s lodge, or his gun, or -other article of his household, consigns it to destruction at once; -and in case of non-conformity to this indispensable form, a woman’s -life may, in some tribes, be answerable for misfortunes that happen to -individuals or the tribe, in the interim. - -After this season of separation, _purification_ in running water, and -_annointing_, precisely in accordance with the Jewish command, is -requisite before she can enter the family lodge. Such is one of the -extraordinary observances amongst these people in their wild state; but -along the Frontier, where white people have laughed at them for their -forms, they have departed from this, as from nearly everything else -that is native and original about them. - -In their _feasts_, _fastings_ and _sacrificing_, they are exceedingly -like those ancient people. Many of them have a feast closely resembling -the annual feast of the Jewish passover; and amongst others, an -occasion much like the Israelitish feast of the tabernacles, which -lasted eight days, (when history tells us they carried bundles of -_willow boughs_, and fasted several days and nights) making sacrifices -of the first fruits and best of everything, closely resembling the -sin-offering and peace-offering of the Hebrews.[41] - -These, and many others of their customs would seem to be decidedly -Jewish; yet it is for the world to decide how many of them, or whether -all of them, might be natural to all people, and, therefore, as well -practiced by these people in a state of nature, as to have been -borrowed from a foreign nation. - -Amongst the list of their customs however, we meet a number which -had their origin it would seem, in the Jewish Ceremonial code, and -which are so very _peculiar_ in their forms, that it would seem quite -improbable, and almost impossible, that two different people should -ever have hit upon them alike, without some knowledge of each other. -These I consider, go farther than anything else as evidence, and -carry, in my mind, conclusive proof that these people are tinctured -with Jewish blood; even though the Jewish sabbath has been lost, -and circumcision probably rejected; and dog’s flesh, which was an -abomination to the Jews, continued to be eaten at their feasts by all -the tribes of Indians; not because the Jews have been prevailed upon to -use it, but, because they have survived only, as their blood was mixed -with that of the Indians, and the Indians have imposed on that mixed -blood the same rules and regulations that governed the members of the -tribes in general. - -Many writers are of opinion, that the natives of America are all -from one stock, and their languages from one root—that that stock is -exotic, and that that language was introduced with it. And the reason -assigned for this theory is, that amongst the various tribes, there -is a reigning similarity in looks—and in their languages a striking -resemblance to each other. - -Now, if all the world were to argue in this way, I should reason just -in the other; and pronounce this, though evidence to a certain degree, -to be very far from conclusive, inasmuch as it is far easier and more -natural for distinct tribes, or languages, grouped and used together, -to _assimilate_ than to _dissimilate_; as the pebbles on a sea-shore, -that are washed about and jostled together, lose their angles, and -incline at last to one rounded and uniform shape. So that if there had -been, _ab origine_, a variety of different stocks in America, with -different complexions, with different characters and customs, and of -different statures, and speaking entirely different tongues; where they -have been for a series of centuries living neighbours to each other, -moving about and intermarrying; I think we might reasonably look for -quite as great a similarity in their personal appearance and languages, -as we now find; when, on the other hand, if we are to suppose that -they were all from one foreign stock, with but one language, it is -a difficult thing to conceive how or in what space of time, or for -what purpose, they could have formed so many tongues, and so widely -different, as those that are now spoken on the Continent. - -It is evident I think, that if an island or continent had been peopled -with black, white and red; a succession of revolving centuries of -intercourse amongst these different colours would have had a tendency -to bring them to one standard complexion, when no computable space -of time, nor any conceivable circumstances could restore them again; -reproducing all, or either of the distinct colours, from the compound. - -That _customs_ should be found similar, or many of them exactly the -same, on the most opposite parts of the Continent, is still less -surprising; for these will travel more rapidly, being more easily -taught at Treaties and festivals between hostile bands, or disseminated -by individuals travelling through neighbouring tribes, whilst languages -and blood require more time for their admixture. - -That the languages of the North American Indians, should be found to be -so numerous at this day, and so very many of them radically different, -is a subject of great surprise, and unaccountable, whether these people -are derived from one individual stock, or from one hundred, or one -thousand. - -Though languages like colour and like customs, are calculated to -assimilate, under the circumstances above named; yet it is evident -that, (if derived from a variety of sources), they have been -unaccountably kept more distinct than the others; and if from one -root, have still more unaccountably dissimulated and divided into at -least one hundred and fifty, two-thirds of which, I venture to say, -are entirely and radically distinct; whilst amongst the people who -speak them, there is a reigning similarity in looks, in features and -in customs, which would go very far to pronounce them one family, by -nature or by convention. - -I do not believe, with some very learned and distinguished writers, -that the languages of the North American Indians can be traced to one -root or to three or four, or any number of distinct idioms; nor do -I believe all, or any one of them, will ever be fairly traced to a -foreign origin. - -If the looks and customs of the Jews, are decidedly found and -identified with these people—and also those of the Japanese, and Calmuc -Tartars, I think we have but little, if any need of looking for the -Hebrew language, or either of the others, for the reasons that I have -already given; for the feeble colonies of these, or any other foreign -people that might have fallen by accident upon the shores of this great -Continent, or who might have approached it by Behring’s Straits, have -been too feeble to give a language to fifteen or twenty millions of -people, or in fact to any portion of them; being in all probability, -in great part cut to pieces and destroyed by a natural foe; leaving -enough perhaps, who had intermarried, to innoculate their blood and -their customs; which have run, like a drop in a bucket, and slightly -tinctured the character of tribes who have sternly resisted their -languages, which would naturally, under such circumstances, have made -but very little impression. - -Such I consider the condition of the Jews in North America; and perhaps -the Scandanavians, and the followers of Madoc, who by some means, and -some period that I cannot name, have thrown themselves upon the shores -of this country, and amongst the ranks of the savages; where, from -destructive wars with their new neighbours, they have been overpowered, -and perhaps, with the exception of those who had intermarried, they -have been destroyed, yet leaving amongst the savages decided marks of -their character; and many of their peculiar customs, which had pleased, -and been adopted by the savages, while they had sternly resisted -others: and decidedly shut out and discarded their language, and of -course obliterated everything of their history. - -That there should often be found contiguous to each other, several -tribes speaking dialects of the same language, is a matter of no -surprise at all; and wherever such is the case, there is resemblance -enough also, in looks and customs, to show that they are parts of the -same tribes, which have comparatively recently severed and wandered -apart, as their traditions will generally show; and such resemblances -are often found and traced, nearly across the Continent, and have -been accounted for in some of my former Letters. Several very learned -gentlemen, whose opinions I would treat with the greatest respect, -have supposed that all the native languages of America were traceable -to three or four roots; a position which I will venture to say will be -an exceedingly difficult one for them to maintain, whilst remaining -at home and consulting books, in the way that too many theories are -supported; and one infinitely more difficult to prove if they travel -amongst the different tribes, and collect their own information as -they travel.[42] I am quite certain that I have found in a number of -instances, tribes who have long lived neighbours to each other, and -who, from continued intercourse, had learned mutually, many words of -each others language, and adopted them for common use or mottoes, as -often, or oftener than we introduce the French or Latin phrases in our -conversation; from which the casual visitor to one of these tribes, -might naturally suppose there was a similarity in their languages; -when a closer examiner would find that the idioms and structure of the -several languages were entirely distinct. - -I believe that in this way, the world who take but a superficial glance -at them, are, and will be, led into continual error on this interesting -subject; one that invites, and well deserves from those learned -gentlemen, a fair investigation by them, _on the spot_; rather than so -limited and feeble an examination as _I_ have been able to make of it, -or that _they, can_ make, in their parlours, at so great a distance -from them, and through such channels as they are obliged to look to for -their information. - -Amongst the tribes that I have visited, I consider that thirty, out -of the forty-eight, are distinct and radically different in their -languages, and eighteen are dialects of some three or four. It is a -very simple thing for the off-hand theorists of the scientific world, -who do not go near these people, to arrange and classify them; and -a very clever thing to _simplify_ the subject, and bring it, like -everything else, under three or four heads, and to solve, and resolve -it, by as many simple rules. - -I do not pretend to be able to give to this subject, or to that of the -probable origin of these people, the close investigation that these -interesting subjects require and deserve; yet I have travelled and -observed enough amongst them, and collected enough, to enable me to -form decided opinions of my own; and in my conviction, have acquired -confidence enough to tell them, and at the same time to recommend to -the Government or institutions of my own country, to employ men of -science, such as I have mentioned, and protect them in their _visits -to_ these tribes, where “the truth, and the whole truth” may be got; -and the languages of all the tribes that are yet in existence, (many -of which are just now gasping them out in their last breath,) may be -snatched and preserved from oblivion; as well as their _looks_ and -their _customs_, to the preservation of which _my_ labours have been -principally devoted. - -I undertake to say to such gentlemen, who are enthusiastic and -qualified, that here is one of the most interesting subjects that they -could spend the energies of their valuable lives upon, and one the most -sure to secure for them that immortality for which it is natural and -fair for all men to look. - -From what has been said in the foregoing Letters, it will have been -seen that there are three divisions under which the North American -Indians may be justly considered; those who are dead—those who are -dying, and those who are yet living and flourishing in their primitive -condition. Of the _dead_, I have little to say at present, and I can -render them no service—of the _living_, there is much to be said, and I -shall regret that the prescribed limits of these epistles, will forbid -me saying all that I desire to say of them and their condition. - -The present condition of these once numerous people, contrasted with -what, it was, and what it is soon to be, is a subject of curious -interest, as well as some importance, to the civilized world—a -subject well entitled to the attention, and very justly commanding -the sympathies of, enlightened communities. There are abundant proofs -recorded in the history of this country, and to which I need not at -this time more particularly refer, to shew that this very numerous and -respectable part of the human family, which occupied the different -parts of North America, at the time of its first settlement by the -Anglo-Americans, contained more than fourteen millions, who have -been reduced since that time, and undoubtedly in consequence of that -settlement, to something less than two millions! - -This is a startling fact, and one which carries with it, if it be the -truth, other facts and their results, which are equally startling, and -such as every inquiring mind should look into. The first deduction that -the mind draws from such premises, is the rapid declension of these -people, which must at that rate be going on at this day; and sooner or -later, lead to the most melancholy result of their final extinction. - -Of this sad termination of their existence, there need not be a doubt -in the minds of any man who will read the history of their former -destruction; contemplating them swept already from two-thirds of the -Continent; and who will then travel as I have done, over the vast -extent of Frontier, and witness the modes by which the poor fellows are -falling, whilst contending for their rights, with acquisitive white -men. Such a reader, and such a traveller, I venture to say, if he has -not the heart of a brute, will shed tears for them; and be ready to -admit that their character and customs, are at _this time_, a subject -of interest and importance, and rendered peculiarly so from the facts -that they are dying _at the hands_ of their Christian neighbours; and, -from all past experience, that there will probably be no effectual plan -instituted, that will save the remainder of them from a similar fate. -As they stand at this day, there may be four or five hundred thousand -in their primitive state; and a million and a half, that may be said to -be semi-civilized, contending with the sophistry of white men, amongst -whom they are timidly and unsuccessfully endeavouring to hold up their -heads, and aping their modes; whilst they are swallowing their poisons, -and yielding their lands and their lives, to the superior tact and -cunning of their merciless cajolers. - -In such parts of their community, their customs are uninteresting; -being but poor and ridiculous imitations of those that are _bad -enough_, those practiced by their first teachers—but in their primitive -state, their modes of life and character, before they are changed, are -subjects of curious interest, and all that I have aimed to preserve. -Their personal appearance, their dress, and many of their modes of -life, I have already described. - -For their Government, which is purely such as has been dictated to them -by Nature and necessity alone, they are indebted to no foreign, native -or civilized nation. For their religion, which is simply Theism, they -are indebted to the Great Spirit, and not to the Christian world. For -their modes of war, they owe nothing to enlightened nations—using only -those weapons and those modes which are prompted by nature, and within -the means of their rude manufactures. - -If, therefore, we do not find in their systems of polity and -jurisprudence, the efficacy and justice that are dispensed in -civilized institutions—if we do not find in their religion the light -and the grace that flow from Christian faith—if in wars they are less -honourable, and wage them upon a system of “_murderous stratagem_,” -it is the duty of the enlightened world, who administer justice in a -better way—who worship in a more acceptable form—and who war on a more -_honourable_ scale, to make great allowance for their ignorance, and -yield to their credit, the fact, that if their systems are less wise, -they are often more free from injustice—from hypocrisy and from carnage. - -Their Governments, if they have any (for I am almost disposed to -question the propriety of applying the term), are generally alike; -each tribe having at its head, a chief (and most generally a war and -civil chief), whom it would seem, alternately hold the ascendency, -as the circumstances of peace or war may demand their respective -services. These chiefs, whose titles are generally hereditary, hold -their offices only as long as their ages will enable them to perform -the duties of them by taking the lead in war-parties, &c., after which -they devolve upon the next incumbent, who is the eldest son of the -chief, provided he is decided by the other chiefs to be as worthy of -it as any other young man in the tribe—in default of which, a chief is -elected from amongst the sub-chiefs; so that the office is _hereditary -on condition_, and _elective_ in _emergency_. - -The chief has no controul over the life or limbs, or liberty of his -subjects, nor other power whatever, excepting that of _influence_ which -he gains by his virtues, and his exploits in war, and which induces -his warriors and braves to follow him, as he leads them to battle—or -to listen to him when he speaks and advises in council. In fact, he is -no more than a _leader_, whom every young warrior may follow, or turn -about and go back from, as he pleases, if he is willing to meet the -disgrace that awaits him, who deserts his chief in the hour of danger. - -It may be a difficult question to decide, whether their Government -savours most of a democracy or an aristocracy; it is in some respects -purely democratic—and in others aristocratic. The influence of names -and families is strictly kept up, and their qualities and relative -distinctions preserved in heraldric family Arms; yet entirely severed, -and free from influences of wealth, which is seldom amassed by any -persons in Indian communities; and most sure to slip from the hands of -chiefs, or others high in office, who are looked upon to be liberal -and charitable; and oftentimes, for the sake of popularity, render -themselves the poorest, and most meanly dressed and equipped of any in -the tribe. - -These people have no written laws, nor others, save the penalties -affixed to certain crimes, by long-standing custom, or by the -decisions of the chiefs in council, who form a sort of Court and -Congress too, for the investigation of crimes, and transaction of the -public business. For the sessions of these dignitaries, each tribe -has, in the middle of their village, a Government or council-house, -where the chiefs often try and convict, for capital offences—leaving -the punishment to be inflicted by the nearest of kin, to whom all eyes -of the nation are turned, and who has no means of evading it without -suffering disgrace in his tribe. For this purpose, the custom, which -is the common law of the land, allows him to use any means whatever, -that he may deem necessary to bring the thing effectually about; and he -is allowed to _waylay_ and shoot down the criminal—so that punishment -is _certain_ and _cruel_, and as effective from the hands of a feeble, -as from those of a stout man, and entirely beyond the hope that often -arises from the “glorious uncertainty of the law.” - -As I have in a former place said, cruelty is one of the leading traits -of the Indian’s character; and a little familiarity with their modes of -life and government will soon convince the reader, that _certainty_ and -_cruelty_ in punishments are requisite (where individuals undertake to -inflict the penalties of the laws), in order to secure the lives and -property of individuals in society. - -In the treatment of their prisoners also, in many tribes, they are -in the habit of inflicting the most appalling tortures, for which -the enlightened world are apt to condemn them as cruel and unfeeling -in the extreme; without stopping to learn that in every one of these -instances, these cruelties are practiced by way of retaliation, by -individuals or families of the tribe, whose relatives have been -previously dealt with in a similar way by their enemies, and whose -_manes_ they deem it their duty to appease by this horrid and cruel -mode of retaliation. - -And in justice to the savage, the reader should yet know, that -amongst these tribes that torture their prisoners, these cruelties -are practiced but upon the few whose lives are required to atone for -those who have been similarly dealt with by their enemies, and that the -_remainder are adopted into the tribe_, by marrying the widows whose -husbands have fallen in battle, in which capacity they are received -and respected like others of the tribe, and enjoy equal rights and -immunities. And before we condemn them too far, we should yet pause and -enquire whether in the enlightened world we are not guilty of equal -cruelties—whether in the ravages and carnage of war, and treatment -of prisoners, we practice any virtue superior to this; and whether -the annals of history which are familiar to all, do not furnish -abundant proof of equal cruelty to prisoners of war, as well as in -many instances, to the members of our own respective communities. It -is a remarkable fact and one well recorded in history, as it deserves -to be, to the honour of the savage, that no instance has been known -of violence to their captive females, a virtue yet to be learned in -civilized warfare. - -If their punishments are certain and cruel, they have the merit of -being _few_, and those confined chiefly to their enemies. -It is natural to be cruel to enemies; and in this, I do not see -that the improvements of the enlightened and Christian world have -yet elevated them so very much above the savage. To their friends, -there are no people on earth that are more kind; and cruelties and -punishments (except for capital offences) are amongst themselves, -entirely dispensed with. No man in their communities is subject to -any restraints upon his liberty, or to any corporal or degrading -punishment; each one valuing his limbs, and his liberty to use them as -his inviolable right, which no power in the tribe can deprive him of; -whilst each one holds the chief as amenable to him as the most humble -individual in the tribe. - -[Illustration: 306] - -[Illustration: 307] - -[Illustration: 308] - -On an occasion when I had interrogated a Sioux chief, on the Upper -Missouri, about their Government—their punishments and tortures of -prisoners, for which I had freely condemned them for the cruelty of the -practice, he took occasion when I had got through, to ask _me_ some -questions relative to modes in the _civilized world_, which, with his -comments upon them, were nearly as follow; and struck me, as I think -they must every one, with great force. - -“Among white people, nobody ever take your wife—take your children—take -your mother, cut off nose—cut eyes out—burn to death?” No! “Then _you_ -no cut off nose—_you_ no cut out eyes—_you_ no burn to death—very good.” - -He also told me he had often heard that white people hung their -criminals by the neck and choked them to death like dogs, and those -their own people; to which I answered, “yes.” He then told me he had -learned that they shut each other up in prisons, where they keep them a -great part of their lives _because they can’t pay money_! I replied in -the affirmative to this, which occasioned great surprise and excessive -laughter, even amongst the women. He told me that he had been to our -Fort, at Council Bluffs, where we had a great many warriors and braves, -and he saw three of them taken out on the prairies and tied to a post -and whipped almost to death, and he had been told that they submit to -all this to get a little money, “yes.” He said he had been told, that -when all the white people were born, their white _medicine-men_ had to -stand by and look on—that in the Indian country the women would not -allow that—they would be ashamed—that he had been along the Frontier, -and a good deal amongst the white people, and he had seen them whip -their little children—a thing that is very cruel—he had heard also, -from several white _medicine-men_, that the Great Spirit of the white -people was the child of a white woman, and that he was at last put to -death by the white people! This seemed to be a thing that he had not -been able to comprehend, and he concluded by saying, “the Indians’ -Great Spirit got no mother—the Indians no kill him, he never die.” He -put me a chapter of other questions, as to the trespasses of the white -people on their lands—their continual corruption of the morals of their -women—and digging open the Indians’ graves to get their bones, &c. To -all of which I was compelled to reply in the affirmative, and quite -glad to close my note-book, and quietly to escape from the throng that -had collected around me, and saying (though to myself and silently), -that these and an hundred other vices belong to the civilized world, -and are practiced upon (but certainly, in no instance, reciprocated by) -the “cruel and relentless savage.” - -Of their modes of war, of which, a great deal has been written by -other travellers—I could say much, but in the present place, must be -brief. All wars, offensive or defensive, are decided on by the chiefs -and doctors in council, where majority decides all questions. After -their resolve, the chief conducts and leads—his pipe with the reddened -stem is sent through the tribe by his _runners_, and every man who -consents to go to war, draws the smoke once through its stem; he is -then a _volunteer_, like all of their soldiers in war, and bound by -no compulsive power, except that of pride, and dread of the disgrace -of turning back. After the soldiers are enlisted, the war-dance -is performed in presence of the whole tribe; when each warrior in -warrior’s dress, with weapons in hand, dances up separately, and -striking the reddened post, thereby takes the solemn oath not to desert -his party. - -The chief leads in full dress to make himself as conspicuous a mark as -possible for his enemy; whilst his men are chiefly denuded, and their -limbs and faces covered with red earth or vermilion, and oftentimes -with charcoal and grease, so as completely to disguise them, even from -the knowledge of many of their intimate friends. - -At the close of hostilities, the two parties are often brought together -by a flag of truce, where they sit in Treaty, and solemnize by smoking -through the calumet or pipe of peace, as I have before described; and -after that, their warriors and braves step forward, with the pipe of -peace in the left hand, and the war-club in the right, and dance around -in a circle—going through many curious and exceedingly picturesque -evolutions in the “_pipe of peace dance_.” - -To each other I have found these people kind and honourable, and -endowed with every feeling of parental, of filial, and conjugal -affection, that is met in more enlightened communities. I have found -them moral and religious: and I am bound to give them great credit for -their zeal, which is often exhibited in their modes of worship, however -insufficient they may seem to us, or may be in the estimation of the -Great Spirit. - -I have heard it said by some very good men, and some who have even -been preaching the Christian religion amongst them, that they have -no religion—that all their zeal in their worship of the Great Spirit -was but the foolish excess of ignorant superstition—that their humble -devotions and supplications to the Sun and the Moon, where many of them -suppose that the Great Spirit resides, were but the absurd rantings of -idolatry. To such opinions as these I never yet gave answer, nor drew -other instant inferences from them, than, that from the bottom of my -heart, I pitied the persons who gave them. - -I fearlessly assert to the world, (and I defy contradiction,) that the -North American Indian is everywhere, in his native state, a highly -moral and religious being, endowed by his Maker, with an intuitive -knowledge of some great Author of his being, and the Universe; in dread -of whose displeasure he constantly lives, with the apprehension before -him, of a future state, where he expects to be rewarded or punished -according to the merits he has gained or forfeited in this world. - -I have made this a subject of unceasing enquiry during all my travels, -and from every individual Indian with whom I have conversed on the -subject, from the highest to the lowest and most pitiably ignorant, -I have received evidence enough, as well as from their numerous -and humble modes of worship, to convince the mind, and elicit the -confessions of, any man whose gods are not beaver and muskrats’ -skins—or whose ambition is not to be deemed an apostle, or himself, -their only redeemer. - -Morality and virtue, I venture to say, the civilized world need not -undertake to teach them; and to support me in this, I refer the reader -to the interesting narrative of the Rev. Mr. Parker, amongst the tribes -through and beyond the Rocky Mountains; to the narratives of Captain -Bonneville, through the same regions; and also to the reports of the -Reverend Messrs. Spalding and Lee, who have crossed the Mountains, and -planted their little colony amongst them. And I am also allowed to -refer to the account given by the Rev. Mr. Beaver, of the tribes in the -vicinity of the Columbia and the Pacific Coast. - -Of their extraordinary modes and sincerity of worship, I speak with -equal confidence; and although I am compelled to pity them for their -ignorance, I am bound to say that I never saw any other people of any -colour, who spend _so much of their lives_ in humbling themselves -before, and worshipping the Great Spirit, as some of these tribes do, -nor any whom I would not as soon suspect of insincerity and hypocrisy. - -Self-denial, which is comparatively a word of no meaning in the -enlightened world; and self-torture and almost self-immolation, are -continual modes of appealing to the Great Spirit for his countenance -and forgiveness; and these, not in studied figures of rhetoric, -resounding in halls and synagogues, to fill and astonish the ears of -the multitude; but humbly cried forth from starved stomachs and parched -throats, from some lone and favourite haunts, where the poor penitents -crawl and lay with their faces in the dirt from day to day, and day to -day, sobbing forth their humble confessions of their sins, and their -earnest implorations for divine forgiveness and mercy. - -I have seen man thus prostrating himself before his Maker, and -worshipping as Nature taught him; and I have seen mercenary white man -with his bottle and its associate vices, _unteaching_ them; and after -that, good and benevolent and pious men, devotedly wearing out their -valuable lives, all but in vain, endeavouring to break down confirmed -habits of cultivated vices and dissipation, and to engraft upon them -the blessings of Christianity and civilization. I have visited -most of the stations, and am acquainted with many of the excellent -missionaries, who, with their families falling by the diseases of the -country about them, are zealously labouring to benefit these benighted -people; but I have, with thousands and millions of others, to deplore -the ill success with which their painful and faithful labours have -generally been attended. - -This failure I attribute not to the want of capacity on the part of the -savage, nor for lack of zeal and Christian endeavours of those who have -been sent, and to whom the eyes of the sympathizing part of the world -have been anxiously turned, in hopes of a more encouraging account. -The misfortune has been, in my opinion, that these efforts have mostly -been made in the wrong place—along the Frontier, where (though they -have stood most in need of Christian advice and example) they have -been the least ready to hear it or to benefit from its introduction; -where whiskey has been sold for twenty, or thirty, or fifty years, and -every sort of fraud and abuse that could be engendered and visited upon -them, and amongst their families, by ingenious, _money-making_ white -man; rearing up under a burning sense of injustice, the most deadly and -thwarting prejudices, which, and which alone, in my opinion, have stood -in the way of the introduction of Christianity—of agriculture, and -everything which virtuous society has attempted to teach them; which -they meet and suspect, and reject as some new trick or enterprize of -white man, which is to redound to his advantage rather than for their -own benefit. - -The pious missionary finds himself here, I would venture to say, in -an indescribable vicinity of mixed vices and stupid ignorance, that -disgust and discourage him; and just at the moment when his new theory, -which has been at first received as a mystery to them, is about to be -successfully revealed and explained, the whiskey bottle is handed again -from the bushes; and the poor Indian (whose perplexed mind is just -ready to catch the brilliant illumination of Christianity), grasps it, -and, like too many people in the enlightened world, quiets his excited -feelings with its soothing draught, embracing most affectionately the -friend that brings him the most sudden relief; and is contented to fall -back, and linger—and die in the moral darkness that is about him. - -And notwithstanding the great waste of missionary labours, on many -portions of our vast Frontier, there have been some instances in -which their efforts have been crowned with signal success, (even with -the counteracting obstacles that have stood in their way), of which -instances I have made some mention in former epistles. - -I have always been, and still am, an advocate for missionary efforts -amongst these people, but I never have had much faith in the success -of any unless they could be made amongst the tribes in their primitive -state; where, if the strong arm of the Government could be extended -out to protect them, I believe that with the example of good and pious -men, teaching them at the same time, agriculture and the useful arts, -much could be done with these interesting and talented people, for the -successful improvement of their moral and physical condition. - -I have ever thought, and still think, that the Indian’s mind is a -beautiful blank, on which anything might be written, if the right mode -were taken to do it. - -Could the enlightened and virtuous society of the East, have been -brought in contact with him as his first neighbours, and his eyes been -first opened to improvements and habits worthy of his imitation; and -could religion have been taught him without the interference of the -counteracting vices by which he is surrounded, the best efforts of the -world would not have been thrown away upon him, nor posterity been left -to say, in future ages, when he and his race shall have been swept from -the face of the earth, that he was destined by Heaven to be unconverted -and uncivilized. - -The Indian’s calamity is surely far this side of his origin—his -misfortune has been in his education. Ever since our first acquaintance -with these people on the Atlantic shores, have we regularly advanced -upon them; and far a-head of good and moral society have their first -teachers travelled (and are yet travelling), with vices and iniquities -so horrible as to blind their eyes for ever to the light and loveliness -of virtue, when she is presented to them. - -It is in the bewildering maze of this moving atmosphere that he, in -his native simplicity, finds himself lost amidst the ingenuity and -sophistry of his new acquaintance. He stands amazed at the arts and -improvements of civilized life—his proud spirit which before was -founded on his ignorance, droops, and he sinks down discouraged, into -melancholy and despair; and at that moment grasps the bottle (which -is ever ready), to soothe his anguished feelings to the grave. It -is in this deplorable condition that the civilized world, in their -approach, have ever found him; and here in his inevitable misery, that -the charity of the world has been lavished upon him, and religion has -exhausted its best efforts almost in vain. - -Notwithstanding this destructive ordeal, through which all the border -tribes have had to pass, and of whom I have spoken but in general -terms, there are striking and noble exceptions on the Frontiers, of -individuals, and in some instances, of the remaining remnants of -tribes, who have followed the advice and example of their Christian -teachers; who have entirely discarded their habits of dissipation, -and successfully outlived the dismal wreck of their tribe—having -embraced, and are now preaching, the Christian religion; and proving -by the brightest example, that they are well worthy of the sincere and -well-applied friendship of the enlightened world, rather than their -enmity and persecution. - -By nature they are decent and modest, unassuming and inoffensive—and -all history (which I could quote to the end of a volume), proves them -to have been found friendly and hospitable, on the first approach -of white people to their villages on all parts of the American -Continent—and from what I have _seen_, (which I offer as proof, rather -than what I have _read_). I am willing and proud to add, for the ages -who are only to read of these people, my testimony to that which was -given by the immortal Columbus, who wrote back to his Royal Master and -Mistress, from his first position on the new Continent, “I swear to -your Majesties, that there is not a better people in the world than -these; more affectionate, affable, or mild. They love their neighbours -as themselves, and they always speak smilingly.” - -They are ingenious and talented, as many of their curious manufactures -will prove, which are seen by thousands in my Collection. - -In the _mechanic arts_ they have advanced but little, probably because -they have had but little use for them, and have had no teachers to -bring them out. In the _fine arts_, they are perhaps still more rude, -and their productions are very few. Their materials and implements that -they work with, are exceedingly rare and simple; and their principal -efforts at pictorial effects, are found on their buffalo robes; of -which I have given some account in former Letters, and of which I shall -herein furnish some additional information. - -I have been unable to find anything like a _system_ of hieroglyphic -writing amongst them; yet, their _picture writings_ on the rocks, and -on their robes, approach somewhat towards it. Of the former, I have -seen a vast many in the course of my travels; and I have satisfied -myself that they are generally the _totems_ (symbolic names) merely, -of Indians who have visited those places, and from a similar feeling -of vanity that everywhere belongs to man much alike, have been in the -habit of recording their names or symbols, such as birds, beasts, or -reptiles; by which each family, and each individual, is generally -known, as white men are in the habit of recording their names at -watering places, &c. - -Many of these have recently been ascribed to the North-men, who -probably discovered this country at an early period, and have been -extinguished by the savage tribes. I might have subscribed to such a -theory, had I not at the Red Pipe Stone Quarry, where there are a vast -number of these inscriptions cut in the solid rock, and at other places -also, seen the Indian at work, recording his totem amongst those of -more ancient dates; which convinced me that they had been progressively -made, at different ages, and without any system that could be called -hieroglyphic writing. - -The paintings on their robes are in many cases exceedingly curious, and -generally represent the exploits of their military lives, which they -are proud of recording in this way and exhibiting on their backs as -they walk. - -In +plates+ 306 and 307, are _fac-similes_ of the paintings on a Crow -robe, which hangs in my Collection, amongst many others from various -tribes; exhibiting the different tastes, and state of the fine arts, -in the different tribes. All the groups on these two plates, are taken -from one robe; and on the original, are quite picturesque, from the -great variety of vivid colours which they have there given to them. The -reader will recollect the robe Of _Mah-to-toh-pa_, which I described -in the First Volume of this work. And he will find here, something -very similar, the battles of a distinguished war-chief’s life; all -pourtrayed by his own hand, and displayed on his back as he walks, -where all can read, and all of course are challenged to deny.[43] - -In +plate+ 308, are _fac-simile_ outlines from about one-half of a -group on a Pawnee robe, also hanging in the exhibition; representing a -procession of doctors or medicine-men, when one of them, the foremost -one, is giving freedom to his favourite horse. This is a very curious -custom, which I found amongst many of the tribes, and is done by his -announcing to all of his fraternity, that on a certain day, he is -going to give liberty to his faithful horse that has longest served -him, and he expects them all to be present; at the time and place -appointed, they all appear on horseback, most fantastically painted, -and dressed, as well as armed and equipped; when the owner of the horse -leads the procession, and drives before him his emancipated horse, -which is curiously painted and branded; which he holds in check with a -long laso. When they have arrived at the proper spot on the prairie, -the ceremony takes place, of turning it loose, and giving it, it -would seem, as a sort of sacrifice to the Great Spirit. This animal -after this, takes his range amongst the bands of wild horses; and if -caught by the laso, as is often the case, is discharged, under the -superstitious belief that it belongs to the Great Spirit, and not with -impunity to be appropriated by them. - -Besides this curious custom, there are very many instances where these -magicians, (the avails of whose practice enable them to do it, in order -to enthral the ignorant and superstitious minds of their people, as -well as, perhaps, to quiet their own apprehensions,) sacrifice to the -Great or Evil Spirit, their horses and dogs, by killing them instead of -turning them loose. These sacrifices are generally made _immediately_ -to their _medicine-bags_, or to their _family-medicine_, which every -family seems to have attached to their household, in addition to -that which appropriately belongs to individuals. And in making these -sacrifices, and all gifts to the Great Spirit, there is one thing yet -to be told—that whatever gift is made, whether a horse, a dog, or -other article, it is sure to be the _best_ of its kind, that the giver -possesses, otherwise he subjects himself to disgrace in his tribe, and -to the ill-will of the power he is endeavouring to conciliate.[44] - -In +plate+ 309, there is a _fac-simile_ copy of the paintings on -another Pawnee robe, the property and the designs of a distinguished -doctor or medicine-man. In the centre he has represented himself in -full dress on his favourite horse; and, at the top and bottom, it -would seem, he has endeavoured to set up his claims to the reputation -of a warrior, with the heads of seven victims which he professes to -have slain in battle. On the sides there are numerous figures, very -curiously denoting his profession, where he is vomiting and purging -his patients, with herbs; where also he has represented his _medicine_ -or totem, the Bear. And also the rising of the sun, and the different -phases of the moon, which these magicians look to with great dependence -for the operation of their charms and mysteries in effecting the cure -of their patients. - -In +plate+ 310, is a further exemplification of symbolic -representations, as well as of the state of the arts of drawing and -design amongst these rude people. This curious chart is a _fac-simile_ -copy of an Indian song, which was drawn on a piece of birch bark, about -twice the size of the plate, and used by the Chippeways preparatory -to a _medicine-hunt_, as they term it. For the bear, the moose, the -beaver, and nearly every animal they hunt for, they have certain -seasons to commence, and previous to which, they “make medicine” for -several days, to conciliate the bear (or other) Spirit, to ensure a -successful season. For this purpose, these doctors, who are the only -persons, generally, who are initiated into these profound secrets, -sing forth, with the beat of the drum, the songs which are written in -characters on these charts, in which all dance and join in the chorus; -although they are generally as ignorant of the translation and meaning -of the song, as a mere passing traveller; and which they have no means -of learning, except by extraordinary claims upon the tribe, for their -services as warriors and hunters; and then by an extraordinary fee to -be given to the mystery-men, who alone can reveal them, and that under -the most profound injunctions of secrecy. I was not initiated far -enough in this tribe, to explain the mysteries that are hidden on this -little chart, though I heard it sung over, and listened, (I am sure) at -least one hour, before they had sung it all. - -Of these kinds of _symbolic writings_, and totems, such as are given -in +plate+ 311, recorded on rocks and trees in the country, a volume -might be filled; and from the knowledge which I have been able to -obtain of them, I doubt whether I should be able to give with them -all, much additional information, to that which I have briefly given -in these few simple instances. Their _picture writing_, which is found -on their robes, their wigwams, and different parts of their dress, is -also voluminous and various; and can be best studied by the curious, -on the numerous articles in the Museum, where they have the additional -interest of having been traced by the Indian’s own hand. - -In +plate+ 312, is also a _fac-simile_ of a Mandan robe, with a -representation of the sun, most wonderfully painted upon it. This -curious robe, which was a present from an esteemed friend of mine -amongst those unfortunate people, is now in my Collection; where it may -speak for itself, after this brief introduction. - -[Illustration: 309] - -[Illustration: 310] - -[Illustration: 311] - -[Illustration: 312] - -From these brief hints, which I have too hastily thrown together, -it will be seen that these people are ingenious, and have much in -their modes as well as in their manners, to enlist the attention of -the merely curious, even if they should not be drawn nearer to them -by feelings of sympathy and pity for their existing and approaching -misfortunes. - -But he who can travel amongst them, or even sit down in his parlour, -with his map of North America before him, with Halkett’s Notes on -the History of the North American Indians (and several other very -able works that have been written on their character and history), -and fairly and truly contemplate the system of universal abuse, that -is hurrying such a people to utter destruction, will find enough to -enlist all his sympathies, and lead him to cultivate a more general and -intimate acquaintance with their true character. - -He who will sit and contemplate that vast Frontier, where, by the past -policy of the Government, one hundred and twenty thousand of these -poor people, (who had just got initiated into the mysteries and modes -of civilized life, surrounded by examples of industry and agriculture -which they were beginning to adopt), have been removed several hundred -miles to the West, to meet a second siege of the whiskey-sellers -and traders in the wilderness, to whose enormous exactions their -semi-civilized habits and appetites have subjected them, will assuredly -pity them. Where they have to quit their acquired luxuries, or pay -ten times their accustomed prices for them—and to scuffle for a few -years upon the plains, with the wild tribes, and with white men also, -for the flesh and the skins of the last of the buffaloes; where their -carnage, but not their _appetites_, must stop in a few years, and -with the ghastliness of hunger and despair, they will find themselves -gazing at each other upon the vacant waste, which will afford them -nothing but the empty air, and the desperate resolve to flee to the -woods and fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains; whilst more lucky white -man will return to his comfortable home, with no misfortune, save that -of _deep remorse_ and a _guilty conscience_. Such a reader will find -enough to claim his pity and engage his whole soul’s indignation, at -the wholesale and retail system of injustice, which has been, from -the very first landing of our forefathers, (and is equally at the -present day, being) visited upon these poor, and naturally unoffending, -untrespassing people. - -In alluding to the cruel policy of removing the different tribes to -their new country, West of the Mississippi, I would not do it without -the highest respect to the motives of the Government—and to the -feelings and opinions of those worthy Divines, whose advice and whose -services were instrumental in bringing it about; and who, no doubt -were of opinion that they were effecting a plan that would redound to -the Indian’s benefit. Such was once my own opinion—but when I go, as I -have done, through every one of those tribes removed, who had learned -at home to use the ploughshare, and also contracted a passion, and -a taste for civilized manufactures; and after that, removed twelve -and fourteen hundred miles from their homes, to a district where -their wants are to be supplied by the traders, at eight or ten times -the prices they have been in the habit of paying; where whiskey can -easily be sold to them in a boundless and lawless forest, without the -restraints that can be successfully put upon the sellers of it in their -civilized neighbourhoods; and where also they are allured from the use -of their ploughs, by the herds of buffaloes and other wild animals on -the plains; I am compelled to state, as my irresistible conviction, -that I believe the system one well calculated to benefit the interests -of the voracious land-speculators and Indian Traders; the first of whom -are ready to grasp at their lands, as soon as they are vacated—and -the others, at the _annuities_ of one hundred and twenty thousand -extravagant customers. I believe the system is calculated to aid these, -and perhaps to facilitate the growth and the wealth of the civilized -border; but I believe, like everything else that tends to white man’s -aggrandizement, and the increase of his wealth, it will have as rapid -a tendency to the poverty and destruction of the poor _red men_; -who, unfortunately, _almost_ seem _doomed_, never in any way to be -associated in interest with their pale-faced neighbours. - -The system of trade, and the small-pox, have been the great and -wholesale destroyers of these poor people, from the Atlantic Coast to -where they are now found. And no one but God, knows where the voracity -of the one is to stop, short of the acquisition of everything that is -desirable to money-making man in the Indian’s country; or when the -mortal destruction of the other is to be arrested, whilst there is -untried flesh for it to act upon, either within or beyond the Rocky -Mountains. - -From the first settlements on the Atlantic Coast, to where it is now -carried on at the base of the Rocky Mountains, there has been but one -system of trade and money-making, by hundreds and thousands of white -men, who are desperately bent upon making their fortunes in this trade, -with the unsophisticated children of the forest; and generally they -have succeeded in the achievement of their object. - -The Governments of the United States, and Great Britain, have always -held out every encouragement to the Fur Traders, whose traffic has -uniformly been looked upon as beneficial, and a source of wealth -to nations; though surely, they never could have considered such -intercourse as advantageous to the savage. - -Besides the many thousands who are daily and hourly selling whiskey -and rum, and useless gewgaws, to the Indians on the United States, the -Canada, the Texan and Mexican borders, there are, of hardy adventurers, -in the Rocky Mountains and beyond, or near them, and out of all -limits of laws, one thousand armed men in the annual employ of the -United States’ Fur Companies—an equal number in the employment of the -British Factories, and twice that number in the Russian and Mexican -possessions; all of whom pervade the countries of the wildest tribes -they can reach, with guns and gunpowder in their hands, and other -instruments of death, unthought of by the simple savage, calculated -to terrify and coerce him to favourable terms in his trade; and in all -instances they assume the right, (and prove it, if necessary, by the -superiority of their weapons,) of hunting and trapping the streams and -lakes of their countries. - -These traders, in addition to the terror, and sometimes death, that -they carry into these remote realms, at the muzzles of their guns, as -well as by whiskey and the small-pox, are continually arming tribe -after tribe with firearms; who are able thereby, to bring their -unsuspecting enemies into unequal combats, where they are slain by -thousands, and who have no way to heal the awful wound but by arming -themselves in turn; and in a similar manner reeking their vengeance -upon _their_ defenceless enemies on the West. In this wholesale way, -and by whiskey and disease, tribe after tribe sink their heads and lose -their better, proudest half, before the next and succeeding waves of -civilization flow on, to see or learn anything definite of them. - -Without entering at this time, into any detailed history of this -immense system, or denunciation of any of the men or their motives, who -are engaged in it, I would barely observe, that, from the very nature -of their traffic, where their goods are to be carried several thousands -of miles, on the most rapid and dangerous streams, over mountains and -other almost discouraging obstacles; and that at the continual hazard -to their lives, from accidents and diseases of the countries, the poor -Indians are obliged to pay such enormous prices for their goods, that -the balance of trade is so decidedly against them, as soon to lead -them to poverty; and, unfortunately for them, they mostly contract a -taste for whiskey and rum, which are not only ruinous in their prices, -but in their effects destructive to life—destroying the Indians, much -more rapidly than an equal indulgence will destroy the civilized -constitution. - -In the Indian communities, where there is no law of the land or custom -denominating it a vice to drink whiskey, and to get drunk; and where -the poor Indian meets whiskey tendered to him by white men, whom he -considers wiser than himself, and to whom lie naturally looks for -example; he thinks it no harm to drink to excess, and will lie drunk -as long as he can raise the means to pay for it. And after his first -means, in his wild state, are exhausted, he becomes a beggar for -whiskey, and begs until he disgusts, when the honest pioneer becomes -his neighbour; and then, and not before, gets the name of the “poor, -degraded, naked, and drunken Indian,” to whom the epithets are well and -truly applied. - -On this great system of carrying the Fur Trade into the Rocky Mountains -and other parts of the wilderness country, where whiskey is sold at -the rate of twenty and thirty dollars per gallon, and most other -articles of trade at a similar rate; I know of no better comment, nor -any more excusable, than the quotation of a few passages from a very -popular work, which is being read with great avidity, from the pen of a -gentleman whose name gives currency to any book, and whose fine taste, -pleasure to all who read. The work I refer to “The Rocky Mountains, -or Adventures in the Far West, by W. Irving,” is a very interesting -one; and its incidents, no doubt, are given with great candour, by -the excellent officer, Captain Bonneville, who spent five years in -the region of the Rocky Mountains, on a furlough; endeavouring, in -competition with others, to add to his fortune, by pushing the Fur -Trade to some of the wildest tribes in those remote regions. - -“The worthy Captain (says the Author) started into the country with -110 men; whose very appearance and equipment exhibited a piebald -mixture—half-civilized and half-savage, &c.” And he also preludes -his work by saying, that it was revised by himself from Captain -Bonneville’s own notes, which can, no doubt, be relied on. - -This medley group, it seems, traversed the country to the Rocky -Mountains, where, amongst the Nez Percés and Flatheads, he says, “They -were friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous -degree in their intercourse with the white men. And of the same people, -the Captain continues—Simply to call these people religious, would -convey but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which -pervades the whole of their conduct. Their honesty is immaculate; and -their purity of purpose, and their observance of the rites of their -religion, are most uniform and remarkable. They are, certainly, more -like a nation of saints than a horde of savages.” - -Afterwards, of the “_Root-Diggers_,” in the vicinity of the Great -Salt Lake, who are a band of the Snake tribe, (and of whom he speaks -thus:—“In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive race, and scarce -provided with any weapons, except for the chase”); he says that, “one -morning, one of his trappers, of a violent and savage character, -discovering that his traps had been carried off in the night, took -a horrid oath that he would kill the first Indian he should meet, -innocent or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades to camp, -he beheld two unfortunate Root-Diggers seated on the river bank -fishing—advancing upon them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the -spot, and flung his bleeding body into the stream.” - -A short time afterwards, when his party of trappers “were about to -cross Ogden’s river, a great number of Shoshokies or Root-Diggers -were posted on the opposite bank, when they _imagined_ they were -there with hostile intent; they advanced upon them, levelled their -rifles, and killed twenty-five of them on the spot. The rest fled to -a short distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining -like wolves, and uttering most piteous wailings. The trappers chased -them in every direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled -with terror; neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted -victors, that a weapon had been wielded, or a weapon launched by the -Indians throughout the affair.” - -After this affair, this “piebald” band of trappers wandered off to -Monterey, on the coast of California, and on their return on horseback -through an immense tract of the Root-Diggers’ country, he gives the -further following accounts of their transactions:— - -“In the course of their journey through the country of the poor -Root-Diggers, there seems to have been an emulation between them, -which could inflict the greatest outrages upon the natives. The -trappers still considered them in the light of dangerous foes; and the -Mexicans, very probably, charged them with the sin of horse-stealing; -we have no other mode of accounting for the infamous barbarities, of -which, according to their own story, they were guilty—hunting the poor -Indians like wild beasts, and killing them without mercy—chasing their -unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them around the neck with -their lasos, and then dragging them to death.” - -It is due to Captain Bonneville, that the world should know that these -cruel (not “_savage_”) atrocities were committed by his men, when they -were on a Tour to explore the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and many -hundreds of miles from him, and beyond his controul; and that in his -work, both the Captain and the writer of the book have expressed in a -proper way, their abhorrence of such fiendish transactions. - -A part of the same “piebald mixture” of trappers, who were encamped in -the Riccaree country, and trapping the beavers out of their streams, -when, finding that the Riccarees had stolen a number of their horses -one night, in the morning made prisoners of two of the Riccarees, who -loitered into their camp, and probably without knowledge of the offence -committed, when they were bound hand and foot as hostages, until every -one of the horses should be returned. - -“The mountaineers declared, that unless the horses were relinquished, -the prisoners should be burned to death. To give force to their threat, -a pyre of logs and faggots was heaped up and kindled into a blaze. -The Riccarees released one horse, and then another; but finding that -nothing but the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the -lives of their captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off -with many parting words and howlings, when the prisoners were dragged -to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in sight of their retreating -comrades. - -“Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practice, who -mingle in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible -recrimination on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any -atrocities committed by the Riccarees upon captive white men; let this -signal and recent provocation be born in mind. Individual cases of the -kind dwell in the recollections of whole tribes—and it is a point of -honour and conscience to revenge them.”[45] - -To quote the author further————“The facts disclosed in the present -work, clearly manifest the policy of establishing military posts, and -a mounted force to protect our Traders in their journeys across the -great Western wilds; and of pushing the outposts into the heart of the -singular wilderness we have laid open, so as to maintain some degree of -sway over the country, and to put an end to the kind of ‘black mail,’ -levied on all occasions, by the savage ‘chivalry of the mountains’”! - -The appalling cruelties in the above quotations require no comment; -and I hope the author, as well as the Captain, who have my warmest -approbation for having so frankly revealed them, will pardon me for -having quoted them in this place, as one striking proof of the justice -that may be reasonably expected, in _prospect_; and that may fairly -be laid to the _past_ proceedings of these great systems of trading -with, and civilizing the savages; which have been carried on from the -beginning of our settlements on the Atlantic Coast, to the present -day—making first acquaintance with them, and first impressions of -the glorious effects of civilization—and of the sum total of which, -this instance is but a mere point; but with the singular merit which -redounds to the honour of Captain Bonneville, that he has frankly told -the whole truth; which, if as fully revealed of _all other transactions -in these regions_, I am enabled to say, would shake every breast with -ague-chills of abhorrence of _civilized_ barbarities. From the above -facts, as well as from others enumerated in the foregoing epistles, -the discerning reader will easily see how prejudices are raised in -the minds of the savage, and why so many murders of white people -are heard of on the Frontier, which are uniformly attributed to the -wanton cruelty and rapacity of the savage—which we denominate “Indian -murders,” and “ruthless barbarities,” before we can condescend to go to -the poor savage, and ask him for a reason, which there is no doubt he -could generally furnish us. - -From these, and hundreds of others that might be named, and equally -barbarous, it can easily be seen, that white men may well feel a dread -at every step they take in Indian realms, after atrocities like these, -that call so loudly and so justly for revenge, in a country where there -are no laws to punish; but where the cruel savage takes vengeance in -his own way—and white men fall, in the Indian’s estimation, not as -_murdered_, but _executed_, under the common law of their land. - -Of the hundreds and thousands of such _murders_, as they are -denominated by white men, who are the only ones to tell of them in the -civilized world; it should also be kept in mind by the reader, who -passes his sentence on them, that they are all committed on Indian -ground—that the Indian hunts not, nor traps anywhere on white man’s -soil, nor asks him for his lands—or molests the sacred graves where -they have deposited the bones of their fathers, their wives and their -little children. - -I have said that the principal means of the destruction of these -people, were the system of trade, and the introduction of small-pox, -the infallible plague that is consequent, sooner or later, upon the -introduction of trade and whiskey-selling to every tribe. I would -venture the assertion, from books that I have searched, and from other -evidence, that of the numerous tribes which have already disappeared, -and of those that have been traded with, quite to the Rocky Mountains, -each one has had this exotic disease in their turn—and in a few months -have lost one half or more of their numbers; and that from living -evidences, and distinct traditions, this appalling disease has several -times, before our days, run like a wave through the Western tribes, -over the Rocky Mountains, and to the Pacific Ocean—thinning the ranks -of the poor Indians to an extent which no knowledge, save that of the -overlooking eye of the Almighty, can justly comprehend.[46] - -I have travelled faithfully and far, and have closely scanned, with -a hope of fairly pourtraying the condition and customs of these -unfortunate people; and if in taking leave of my readers, which I must -soon do, they should censure me for any oversight, or any indiscretion -or error, I will take to myself these consoling reflections, that they -will acquit me of intention to render more or less than justice to -any one; and also, that if in my zeal to render a service and benefit -to the Indian, I should have fallen short of it, I will, at least, be -acquitted of having done him an _injury_. And in endeavouring to render -them that justice, it belongs to me yet to say that the introduction of -the fatal causes of their destruction above-named, has been a subject -of close investigation with me during my travels; and I have watched on -every part of the Frontier their destructive influences, which result -in the overthrow of the savage tribes, which, one succeeding another, -are continually becoming extinct under their baneful influences. -And before I would expatiate upon any system for their successful -improvement and preservation, I would protrude my opinion to the world, -which I regret to do, that so long as the past and present system of -trade and whiskey-selling is tolerated amongst them, there is little -hope for their improvement, nor any chance for more than a temporary -existence. I have closely studied the Indian character in its native -state, and also in its secondary form along our Frontiers; civilized, -as it is often (but incorrectly) called. I have seen it in every phase, -and although there are many noble instances to the contrary, and with -many of whom I am personally acquainted; yet the greater part of those -who have lingered along the Frontiers, and been kicked about like dogs, -by white men, and beaten into a sort of a civilization, are very far -from being what I would be glad to see them, and proud to call them, -civilized by the aids and examples of good and moral people. Of the -Indians in their general capacity of civilized, along our extensive -Frontier, and those tribes that I found in their primitive and -disabused state, I have drawn a Table, which I offer as an estimate of -their comparative character, which I trust will be found to be near the -truth, generally, though like all general rules or estimates, with its -exceptions. (Vide Appendix C.) - -Such are the results to which the present system of civilization brings -that small part of these poor unfortunate people, who outlive the -first calamities of their country; and in this degraded and pitiable -condition, the most of them end their days in poverty and wretchedness, -without the power of rising above it. Standing on the soil which -they have occupied from their childhood, and inherited from their -fathers; with the dread of “pale faces,” and the deadly prejudices that -have been reared in their breasts against them, for the destructive -influences which they have introduced into their country, which have -thrown the greater part of their friends and connexions into the grave, -and are now promising the remainder of them no better prospect than -the dreary one of living a few years longer, and then to sink into the -ground themselves; surrendering their lands and their fair hunting -grounds to the enjoyment of their enemies, and their bones to be dug up -and strewed about the fields, or to be labelled in our Museums. - -For the Christian and philanthropist, in any part of the world, there -is enough, I am sure, in the character, condition, and history of -these unfortunate people, to engage his sympathies—for the Nation, -there is an unrequited account of sin and injustice that sooner or -later will call for _national retribution_—and for the American -citizens, who live, every where proud of their growing wealth and their -luxuries, over the bones of these poor fellows, who have surrendered -their hunting-grounds and their lives, to the enjoyment of their -cruel dispossessors, there is a lingering terror yet, I fear, for the -reflecting minds, whose mortal bodies must soon take their humble -places with their red, but injured brethren, under the same glebe; to -appear and stand, at last, with guilt’s shivering conviction, amidst -the myriad ranks of accusing spirits, that are to rise in their own -fields, at the final day of resurrection! - - [41] See the four days’ religious ceremonies of the Mandans, and - use of the willow boughs, and sacrifices of fingers, &c. in Vol. I. - pp. 159. 170; and also the custom of war-chiefs wearing horns on - their head-dresses, like the Israelitish chiefs of great renown, - Vol. I. p. 104. - - - [42] For the satisfaction of the reader, I have introduced in - the Appendix to this Volume, Letter B, a brief vocabulary of the - languages of several adjoining tribes in the North West, from - which, by turning to it, they can easily draw their own inferences. - These words have all been written down by myself, from the Indian’s - mouths, as they have been correctly translated to me; and I think - it will at once he decided, that there is very little affinity or - resemblance, if any, between them. I have therein given a sample - of the Blackfoot language, yet, of that immense tribe who all - class under the name of Blackfoot, there are the Cotonnés and the - Grosventres des Prairies—whose languages are entirely distinct - from this—and also from each other—and in the same region, and - neighbours to them, are also the Chayennes—the Knisteneaux, the - Crows, the Shoshonees, and Pawnees; all of whose languages are as - distinct, and as widely different, as those that I have given. - These facts, I think, without my going further, will fully show the - entire dissimilarity between these languages, and support me to a - certain extent, at all events, in the opinion I have advanced above. - - - [43] The reader will bear it in mind, that these drawings, as well - as all those of the kind that have heretofore been given, and those - that are to follow, have been correctly traced with a _Camera_, - from the robes and other works of the Indians belonging to my - Indian Museum. - - - [44] Lewis and Clarke, in their Tour across the Rocky Mountains, - have given an account of a Mandan chief, who had sacrificed - seventeen horses to his _medicine-bag_—to conciliate the good will - of the Great Spirit. And I have met many instances, where, while - boasting to me of their exploits and their liberality, they have - claimed to have given several of their horses to the Great Spirit, - and as many to white men! - - - [45] During the summer of this transaction I was on the Upper - Missouri river, and had to pass the Riccaree village in my bark - canoe, with only two men, which the leader will say justly accounts - for the advice of Mr. M‘Kenzie, to pass the Riccaree village in the - night, which I did, as I have before described, by which means it - is possible I preserved my life, as they had just killed the last - Fur Trader in their village, and as I have learned since, were - “_dancing his scalp_” when I came by them. - - - [46] The Reverend Mr. Parker in his Tour across the Rocky Mountains - says, that amongst the Indians below the Falls of the Columbia - at least seven-eighths, if not nine-tenths, as Dr. M‘Laughlin - believes, have been swept away by disease between the years 1829, - and the time that he visited that place in 1836. “So many and so - sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed - with the unburied dead, whole and large villages were depopulated, - and some entire tribes have disappeared.” This mortality he says - “extended not only from the Cascades to the Pacific, but from very - far North to the coast of California.” These facts, with hundreds - of others, shew how rapidly the Indian population is destroyed, - long before we become acquainted with them. - - - - - APPENDIX—A. - - - EXTINCTION OF THE MANDANS. - -From the accounts brought to New York in the fall of 1838, by Messrs. -M‘Kenzie, Mitchell, and others, from the Upper Missouri, and with whom -I conversed on the subject, it seems that in the summer of that year -the small-pox was accidentally introduced amongst the Mandans, by the -Fur Traders; and that in the course of two months they all perished, -except some thirty or forty, who were taken as slaves by the Riccarees; -an enemy living two hundred miles below them, and who moved up and -took possession of their village soon after their calamity, taking up -their residence in it, it being a better built village than their own; -and from the lips of one of the Traders who had more recently arrived -from there, I had the following account of the remaining few, in whose -destruction was the final termination of this interesting and once -numerous tribe. - -The Riccarees, he said, had taken possession of the village after the -disease had subsided, and after living some months in it, were attacked -by a large party of their enemies, the Sioux, and whilst fighting -desperately in resistance, in which the Mandan prisoners had taken an -active part, the latter had concerted a plan for their own destruction, -which was effected by their simultaneously running through the piquets -on to the prairie, calling out to the Sioux (both men and women) to -kill them, “that they were Riccaree dogs, that their friends were all -dead, and they did not wish to live,”—that they here wielded their -weapons as desperately as they could, to excite the fury of their -enemy, and that they were thus cut to pieces and destroyed. - -The accounts given by two or three white men, who were amongst the -Mandans during the ravages of this frightful disease, are most -appalling and actually too heart-rending and disgusting to be recorded. -The disease was introduced into the country by the Fur Company’s -steamer from St. Louis; which had two of their crew sick with the -disease when it approached the Upper Missouri, and imprudently stopped -to trade at the Mandan village, which was on the bank of the river, -where the chiefs and others were allowed to come on board, by which -means the disease got ashore. - -I am constrained to believe, that the gentlemen in charge of the -steamer did not believe it to be the small-pox; for if they had known -it to be such, I cannot conceive of such imprudence, as regarded -their own interests in the country, as well as the fate of these poor -people, by allowing their boat to advance into the country under such -circumstances. - -It seems that the Mandans were surrounded by several war-parties of -their more powerful enemies the Sioux, at that unlucky time, and they -could not therefore disperse upon the plains, by which many of them -could have been saved; and they were necessarily enclosed within the -piquets of their village, where the disease in a few days became so -very malignant that death ensued in a few hours after its attacks; and -so slight were their hopes when they were attacked, that nearly half -of them destroyed themselves with their knives, with their guns, and -by dashing their brains out by leaping head-foremost from a thirty -foot ledge of rocks in front of their village. The first symptom of -the disease was a rapid swelling of the body, and so very virulent -had it become, that very many died in two or three hours after their -attack, and that in many cases without the appearance of the disease -upon the skin. Utter dismay seemed to possess all classes and all ages, -and they gave themselves up in despair, as entirely lost. There was -but one continual crying and howling and praying to the Great Spirit -for his protection during the nights and days; and there being but few -living, and those in too appalling despair, nobody thought of burying -the dead, whose bodies, whole families together, were left in horrid -and loathsome piles in their own wigwams, with a few buffalo robes, &c. -thrown over them, there to decay, and be devoured by their own dogs. -That such a proportion of their community as that above-mentioned, -should have perished in so short a time, seems yet to the reader, an -unaccountable thing; but in addition to the causes just mentioned, it -must be borne in mind that this frightful disease is everywhere far -more fatal amongst the native than in civilized population, which may -be owing to some extraordinary constitutional susceptibility; or, I -think, more probably, to the exposed lives they live, leading more -directly to fatal consequences. In this, as in most of their diseases, -they ignorantly and imprudently plunge into the coldest water, whilst -in the highest state of fever, and often die before they have the power -to get out. - -Some have attributed the unexampled fatality of this disease amongst -the Indians to the fact of their living entirely on animal food; but -so important a subject for investigation I must leave for sounder -judgments than mine to decide. They are a people whose constitutions -and habits of life enable them most certainly to meet most of its -ills with less dread, and with decidedly greater success, than they -are met in civilized communities; and I would not dare to decide that -their simple meat diet was the cause of their fatal exposure to one -frightful disease, when I am decidedly of opinion that it has been the -cause of their exemption and protection from another, almost equally -destructive, and, like the former, of civilized introduction. - -During the season of the ravages of the Asiatic cholera which swept -over the greater part of the western country, and the Indian frontier, -I was a traveller through those regions, and was able to witness its -effects; and I learned from what I saw, as well as from what I have -heard in other parts since that time, that it travelled to and over the -frontiers, carrying dismay and death amongst the tribes on the borders -in many cases, so far as they had adopted the civilized modes of life, -with its dissipations, using vegetable food and salt; but wherever it -came to the tribes living exclusively on meat, and that without the -use of salt, its progress was suddenly stopped. I mention this as a -subject which I looked upon as important to science, and therefore one -on which I made many careful enquiries; and so far as I have learned -along that part of the frontier over which I have since passed, I have -to my satisfaction ascertained that such became the utmost limits of -this fatal disease in its travel to the West, unless where it might -have followed some of the routes of the Fur Traders, who, of course, -have introduced the modes of civilized life. - -From the Trader who was present at the destruction of the Mandans I had -many most wonderful incidents of this dreadful scene, but I dread to -recite them. Amongst them, however, there is one that I must briefly -describe, relative to the death of that noble _gentleman_ of whom I -have already said so much, and to whom I became so much attached, -_Mah-to-toh-pa_, or “the Four Bears.” This fine fellow sat in his -wigwam and watched every one of his family die about him, his wives and -his little children, after he had recovered from the disease himself; -when he walked out, around the village, and wept over the final -destruction of his tribe; his braves and warriors, whose sinewy arms -alone he could depend on for a continuance of their existence, all laid -low; when he came back to his lodge, where he covered his whole family -in a pile, with a number of robes, and wrapping another around himself, -went out upon a hill at a little distance, where he laid several days, -despite all the solicitations of the Traders, resolved to _starve_ -himself to death. He remained there till the sixth day, when he had -just strength enough to creep back to the village, when he entered the -horrid gloom of his own wigwam, and laying his body alongside of the -group of his family, drew his robe over him and died on the ninth day -of his fatal abstinence. - -So have perished the friendly and hospitable Mandans, from the best -accounts I could get; and although it may be _possible_ that some few -individuals may yet be remaining, I think it is not probable; and one -thing is certain, even if such be the case, that, as a nation, the -Mandans are extinct, having no longer an existence. - -There is yet a melancholy part of the tale to be told, relating to -the ravages of this frightful disease in that country on the same -occasion, as it spread to other contiguous tribes, to the Minatarees, -the Knisteneaux, the Blackfeet, the Chayennes and Crows; amongst whom -25,000 perished in the course of four or five months, which most -appalling facts I got from Major Pilcher, now Superintendent of Indian -affairs at St. Louis, from Mr. M‘Kenzie, and others. - -It may be naturally asked here, by the reader, whether the Government -of the United States have taken any measures to prevent the ravages -of this fatal disease amongst these exposed tribes; to which I -answer, that repeated efforts have been made, and so far generally, -as the tribes have ever had the disease, (or, at all events, within -the recollections of those who are now living in the tribes,) the -Government agents have succeeded in introducing vaccination as a -protection; but amongst those tribes in their wild state, and where -they have not suffered with the disease, very little success has -been met with in the attempt to protect them, on account of their -superstitions, which have generally resisted all attempts to introduce -vaccination. Whilst I was on the Upper Missouri, several surgeons were -sent into the country with the Indian agents, where I several times -saw the attempts made without success. They have perfect confidence -in the skill of their own physicians, until the disease has made one -slaughter in their tribe, and then, having seen white men amongst them -protected by it, they are disposed to receive it, before which they -cannot believe that so minute a puncture in the arm is going to protect -them from so fatal a disease; and as they see white men so earnestly -urging it, they decide that it must be some new mode or trick of pale -faces, by which they are to gain some new advantage over them, and they -stubbornly and successfully resist it. - -[Illustration: _180_ - -A CHART SHEWING THE MOVES OF THE MANDANS & THE PLACE OF THEIR -EXTINCTION.] - - - THE WELSH COLONY. - -Which I barely spoke of in page 206, of Vol. I. which sailed under the -direction of Prince Madoc, or Madawc, from North Wales, in the early -part of the fourteenth century in ten ships, according to numerous -and accredited authors, and never returned to their own country, have -been supposed to have landed somewhere on the coast of North or South -America; and from the best authorities, (which I will suppose everybody -has read, rather than quote them at this time,) I believe it has been -pretty clearly proved that they landed either on the coast of Florida -or about the mouth of the Mississippi, and according to the history and -poetry of their country, settled somewhere in the interior of North -America, where they are yet remaining, intermixed with some of the -savage tribes. - -In my Letter just referred to, I barely suggested, that the Mandans, -whom I found with so many peculiarities in looks and customs, which -I have already described, might possibly be the remains of this lost -colony, amalgamated with a tribe, or part of a tribe, of the natives, -which would account for the unusual appearances of this tribe of -Indians, and also for the changed character and customs of the Welsh -Colonists, provided these be the remains of them. - -Since those notes were written, as will have been seen by my subsequent -Letters, and particularly in page 9 of this Volume, I have descended -the Missouri river from the Mandan village to St. Louis, a distance -of 1800 miles, and have taken pains to examine its shores; and from -the repeated remains of the ancient locations of the Mandans, which -I met with on the banks of that river, I am fully convinced that I -have traced them down nearly to the mouth of the Ohio river; and from -exactly similar appearances, which I recollect to have seen several -years since in several places in the interior of the state of Ohio, -I am fully convinced that they have formerly occupied that part of -the country, and have, from some cause or other, been put in motion, -and continued to make their repeated moves until they arrived at the -place of their residence at the time of their extinction, on the Upper -Missouri. - -In the annexed chart of the Missouri and Ohio rivers, will be seen laid -down the different positions of the ancient marks of their towns which -I have examined; and also, nearly, (though not exactly) the positions -of the very numerous civilized fortifications which are now remaining -on the Ohio and Muskingum rivers, in the vicinity of which I believe -the Mandans once lived. - -These ancient fortifications, which are very numerous in that vicinity, -some of which enclose a great many acres, and being built on the -banks of the rivers, with walls in some places twenty or thirty feet -in height, with covered ways to the water, evince a knowledge of the -science of fortifications, apparently not a century behind that of the -present day, were evidently never built by any nation of savages in -America, and present to us incontestable proof of the former existence -of a people very far advanced in the arts of civilization, who have, -from some cause or other, disappeared, and left these imperishable -proofs of their former existence. - -Now I am inclined to believe that the ten ships of Madoc, or a part -of them at least, entered the Mississippi river at the Balize, and -made their way up the Mississippi, or that they landed somewhere on -the Florida coast, and that their brave and persevering colonists made -their way through the interior, to a position on the Ohio river, where -they cultivated their fields, and established in one of the finest -countries on earth, a flourishing colony; but were at length set -upon by the savages, whom, perhaps, they provoked to warfare, being -trespassers on their hunting-grounds, and by whom, in overpowering -hordes, they were beseiged, until it was necessary to erect these -fortifications for their defence, into which they were at last driven -by a confederacy of tribes, and there held till their ammunition -and provisions gave out, and they in the end have all perished, -except, perhaps, that portion of them who might have formed alliance -by marriage with the Indians, and their offspring, who would have -been half-breeds, and of course attached to the Indians’ side; whose -lives have been spared in the general massacre; and at length, being -despised, as all half-breeds of enemies are, have gathered themselves -into a band, and severing from their parent tribe, have moved off, and -increased in numbers and strength as they have advanced up the Missouri -river to the place where they have been known for many years past by -the name of the _Mandans_, a corruption or abbreviation, perhaps, of -“_Madawgwys_,” the name applied by the Welsh to the followers of Madawc. - -If this be a startling theory for the world, they will be the more -sure to read the following brief reasons which I bring in support of -my opinion; and if they do not support me, they will at least be worth -knowing, and may, at the same time, be the means of eliciting further -and more successful enquiry. - -As I have said, in page 9 of this Volume, and in other places, the -marks of the Mandan villages are known by the excavations of two feet -or more in depth, and thirty or forty feet in diameter, of a circular -form, made in the ground for the foundations of their wigwams, which -leave a decided remain for centuries, and one that is easily detected -the moment that it is met with. After leaving the Mandan village, I -found the marks of their former residence about sixty miles below where -they were then living, and from which they removed (from their own -account) about sixty or eighty years since; and from the appearance of -the number of their lodges, I should think, that at that recent date -there must have been three times the number that were living when I -was amongst them. Near the mouth of the big Shienne river, 200 miles -below their last location, I found still more ancient remains, and in -as many as six or seven other places between that and the mouth of the -Ohio, as I have designated on the chart, and each one, as I visited -them, appearing more and more ancient, convincing me that these people, -wherever they might have come from, have gradually made their moves up -the banks of the Missouri, to the place where I visited them. - -For the most part of this distance they have been in the heart of the -great Sioux country, and being looked upon by the Sioux as trespassers, -have been continually warred upon by this numerous tribe, who have -endeavoured to extinguish them, as they have been endeavouring to do -ever since our first acquaintance with them; but who, being always -fortified by a strong piquet, or stockade, have successfully withstood -the assaults of their enemies, and preserved the remnant of their -tribe. Through this sort of gauntlet they have run, in passing through -the countries of these warlike and hostile tribes. - -It may be objected to this, perhaps, that the Riccarees and Minatarees -build their wigwams in the same way: but this proves nothing, for the -Minatarees are Crows, from the north-west; and by their own showing, -fled to the Mandans for protection, and forming their villages by the -side of them, built their wigwams in the same manner. - -The Riccarees have been a very small tribe, far inferior to the -Mandans; and by the traditions of the Mandans, as well as from the -evidence of the first explorers, Lewis and Clarke, and others, have -lived, until quite lately, on terms of intimacy with the Mandans, whose -villages they have successively occupied as the Mandans have moved and -vacated them, as they now are doing, since disease has swept the whole -of the Mandans away. - -Whether my derivation of the word _Mandan_ from _Madawgwys_ be -correct or not, I will pass it over to the world at present merely as -_presumptive_ proof, for want of better, which, perhaps, this enquiry -may elicit; and, at the same time, I offer the Welsh word _Mandon_, -(the woodroof, a species of madder used as a red dye,) as the name that -might possibly have been applied by their Welsh neighbours to these -people, on account of their very ingenious mode of giving the beautiful -red and other dyes to the porcupine quills with which they garnish -their dresses. - -In their own language they called themselves -_See-pohs-ka-nu-mah-ka-kee_, (the people of the pheasants,) which was -probably the name of the primitive stock, before they were mixed with -any other people; and to have got such a name, it is natural to suppose -that they must have come from a country where _pheasants_ existed, -which cannot be found short of reaching the timbered country at the -base of the Rocky Mountains, some six or eight hundred miles West of -the Mandans, or the forests of Indiana and Ohio, some hundreds of miles -to the South and East of where they last lived. - -The above facts, together with the other one which they repeatedly -related to me, and which I have before alluded to, that they had often -been to the hill of the _Red Pipe Stone_, and that they once lived -near it, carry conclusive evidence, I think, that they have formerly -occupied a country much farther to the South; and that they have -repeatedly changed their locations, until they reached the spot of -their last residence, where they have met with their final misfortune. -And as evidence in support of my opinion that they came from the banks -of the Ohio, and have brought with them some of the customs of the -civilized people who erected those ancient fortifications, I am able -to say, that the numerous specimens of pottery which have been taken -from the graves and tumuli about those ancient works, (many of which -may be seen now, in the Cincinnati Museum, and some of which, my own -donations, and which have so much surprised the enquiring world,) were -to be seen in great numbers in the use of the Mandans, and scarcely a -day in the summer, when the visitor to their village would not see the -women at work with their hands and fingers, moulding them from black -clay, into vases, cups, pitchers, and pots, and baking them in their -little kilns in the sides of the hill, or under the bank of the river. - -In addition to this art, which I am sure belongs to no other tribe on -the Continent, these people have also, as a secret with themselves, the -extraordinary art of manufacturing a very beautiful and lasting kind of -blue glass beads, which they wear on their necks in great quantities, -and decidedly value above all others that are brought amongst them by -the Fur Traders. - -This secret is not only one that the Traders did not introduce amongst -them, but one that they cannot learn from them; and at the same time, -beyond a doubt, an art that has been introduced amongst them by some -civilized people, as it is as yet unknown to other Indian tribes in -that vicinity, or elsewhere. Of this interesting fact, Lewis and -Clarke have given an account thirty-three years ago, at a time when no -Traders, or other white people, had been amongst the Mandans, to have -taught them so curious an art. - -The Mandan canoes which are altogether different from those of all -other tribes, are exactly the Welsh _coracle_, made of _raw-hides_, -the skins of buffaloes, stretched underneath a frame made of willow -or other boughs, and shaped nearly round, like a tub; which the woman -carries on her head from her wigwam to the water’s edge, and having -stepped into it, stands in front, and propels it by dipping her -paddle _forward_, and _drawing it to her_, instead of paddling by the -side. In referring to +plate+ 240, letter _c_, page 138, the reader -will see several drawings of these seemingly awkward crafts, which, -nevertheless, the Mandan women will _pull_ through the water at a rapid -rate. - -How far these extraordinary facts may go in the estimation of the -reader, with numerous others which I have mentioned in Volume I., -whilst speaking of the Mandans, of their various complexions, colours -of hair, and blue and grey eyes, towards establishing my opinion as -a sound theory, I cannot say; but this much I can safely aver, that -at the moment that I first saw these people, I was so struck with -the peculiarity of their appearance, that I was under the instant -conviction that they were an amalgam of a native, with some civilized -race; and from what I have seen of them, and of the remains on the -Missouri and Ohio rivers, I feel fully convinced that these people have -emigrated from the latter stream; and that they have, in the manner -that I have already stated, with many of their customs, been preserved -from the _almost total_ destruction of the bold colonists of Madawc, -who, I believe, settled upon and occupied for a century or so, the rich -and fertile banks of the Ohio. In adducing the proof for the support of -this theory, it I have failed to complete it, I have the satisfaction -that I have not taken up much of the reader’s time, and I can therefore -claim his attention a few moments longer, whilst I refer him to a brief -vocabulary of the Mandan language in the following pages, where he may -compare it with that of the Welsh; and better, perhaps, than I can, -decide whether there is any affinity existing between the two; and if -he finds it, it will bring me a friendly aid in support of the position -I have taken. - -From the comparison, that I have been able to make, I think I am -authorized to say, that in the following list of words, which form a -part of that vocabulary, there is a striking similarity, and quite -sufficient to excite surprise in the minds of the attentive reader, -if it could be proved that those resemblances were but the results of -accident between two foreign and distinct idioms. - - _English._ _Mandan._ _Welsh._ _Pronounced._ - - _I_ Me Mi Me - _You_ Ne Chwi Chwe - _He_ E A A - _She_ Ea E A - _It_ Ount Hwynt Hooynt - _We_ Noo Ni Ne - _They_ Eonah {Hwna _mas._ Hoona - {Hona _fem._ Hona - _Those ones_ Yrhai Hyna - _No_, or, _there is not_ Megosh Nagoes Nagosh - {Nage - _No_ {Nag - {Na - _Head_ Pan Pen Pan - _The Great Spirit_ Maho peneta Mawr penaethir[47] Maoor panaether - Ysprid mawr[48] Uspryd maoor - - - [47] To act as a great chief—head or principal—sovereign or supreme. - - - [48] The Great Spirit. - - - - - APPENDIX—B. - - -The following brief Vocabularies of several different Indian languages, -which have been carefully written by the Author from the lips of the -Indians as they have pronounced them, and which he has endeavoured -to convey with the simplest use of the English alphabet, have been -repeatedly referred to in the text, as a conclusive proof of the -radical difference that actually exists amongst a vast many of the -languages spoken by the North American Indians. And the Author here -repeats, as he has said in page 236, that of the forty-eight languages -which he has visited, he pronounces thirty of them as radically -different as these are, whilst the remaining eighteen may be said to be -dialects from four or five distinct roots. - -----------------------+----------------------+-----------------------------+----------------------+ - ENGLISH. | MANDAN. | BLACKFOOT. | RICCAREE. | -----------------------+----------------------+-----------------------------+----------------------+ -_I_ |Me |Nistoa |Nan to | -_You_ |Ne |Cristoa |Kag hon | -_He_ |E |Amo |Wite | -_She_ |Ea |..... |Sapatish | -_It_ |Ount |..... |Tihai | -_We_ |Noo |Ne stoa pinnan |Aps | -_They_ |Eonah |Maex |Arrish | -_Great Spirit_ |Mah ho peneta |Cristecoom |Te wa rooh teh | -_Evil Spirit_ |Mahho penekheka |Cristecoom sah |Ka ke wa rooh teh | -_Medicine_ (_Mystery_)|Hopeneche |Nahtoya |Wa rooh teh | -_Mystery-man_ |New mohk hopeneche |Nah tose |So nish wa rooh teh | -_Sacrifice_ |Wa pa shee |Kits tah kee |..... | -_Drum_ |Bereck hah |Ogh tum |..... | -_Rattle_ |Eeh na de |..... |..... | -_Sun_ |Menahka |Cristeque ahtose |Sha-koona | -_Moon_ |Esto menahka |Cogue ahtose |We-tah | -_Stars_ |H’ka ka |Ca cha tose |Sa ca | -_Rain_ |H’ka hoosh |Shotta |Tas sou | -_Snow_ |Cop caze |Cane |Tah hah | -_Night_ |Estogr |Caquay |Ee nahght | -_Day_ |Humpah |Cristoque |Sha cona | -_Dark_ |Ham pah eriskah |Skaynatsee |Te ka tistat | -_Light_ |Edayhush |Cristequenats |Sha koona | -_Heavy_ |T’kash |Sacoay |Tah tash | -_Not heavy_ |Ho hesh |Mabts coay |Kak a tash | -_Yes_ |K’hoo |Ah |Nee coo la | -_No_ |Megosh |Sah |Ka ka | -_Good_ |Shusu |Ahghsee |Toh nee | -_Bad_ |K’he cush |Pah kaps |Kah | -_Very bad_ |Keks-cusha (hush) |Eehcooa pah kaps |Koo nah hee | -_How do you do?_ |Tush kah thah mah kah |How ne tucka? |Chee na se nun? | -_Very well_ |Mah shuse |Neet ahkse |Ah teesh te | -_I am sick_ |Me au gana bush |Estse no stum |Na too te rate | -_Are you tired?_ |E da e teache? |Cho hetta ke tesistico? |Kah ka nee now a? | -_I am not tired_ |Wah ee wah ta hish |Nemah tesistico |..... | -_Look there_ |Etta hant tah |Essummissa |Hay nah ho too tayrick| -_Come here_ |Roo-hoo tah |Pohks a pote |Shee sha | -_Hot_ |Dsa shosh |Ea cristochis |Tow war ist | -_Cold_ |Shinee hush |Stuya |Teep se | -_Long_ |Hash kah |Innuya |Tac chess | -_Short_ |Sonnah ka |Sah kee |Nee hootch | -_War eagle_ |Mah sish |Pehta |Nix war roo | -_Buffalo_ |Ptemday |Eneuh |Wa tash | -_Elk_ |Omepah |Ponokah |Wah | -_Deer_ |Mah man a coo |Ouacasee |A noo nach | -_Beaver_ |Warrahpa |Kekstakee |Chee tooghs | -_Porcupine_ |Pahhee |..... |Pan h e | -_Horse_ |Ompah meneda |Ponokah meta |Ha wah rooh te | -_Robe_ |Mah he toh |Aihabwa |Sa hooche | -_Moccasins_ |Hoompah |Itseekist |Hooche | -_Shirt_ |Ema shotah |Assokas |Kraitch | -_Leggings_ |Hoh shee |Ahtsaiks |Kah hooche | -_Bow_ |Warah e noo pah |Netsinnam |Nache | -_Quiver_ |Eehkticka |..... |Nish kratch | -_Arrow_ |Mahha |Ohpsis |Neeche | -_Shield_ |Wah kee |..... |..... | -_Lance_ |Monna etorook shoka |Sapa pistats |Na se wa roo | -_Wigwam_ |Ote |Moeese |Acane | -_Woman_ |Meha |Ahkeea |Sa pat | -_Wife_ |Moorse |Netohkeaman |Tah ban | -_Child_ |Sookhomaha |Pohka |Pe ra | -_Girl_ |Sook meha |Ahkeoquoin |Soo nahtch | -_Boy_ |Sook numohk |Sah komape |Wee nahtch | -_Head_ |Pan |Otokan |Pahgh | -_Arms_ |Arda |Otchist |Arrai | -_Legs_ |Doka |Ahcatches |Ahgha | -_Eyes_ |Estume |Owopspec |Chee ree coo | -_Nose_ |Pahoo |Ohcrisis |..... | -_Mouth_ |Ea |Mah oi |..... | -_Face_ |Estah |Oestocris |..... | -_Ears_ |Nakoha |Ohtokiss |Tickokite | -_Hands_ |Onka |..... |Teho nane | -_Fingers_ |On ka hah |Ohkitchis |Pa rick | -_Foot_ |Shee |Ahocatchis |Ahgh | -_Hair_ |Pah hee |Otokan |Pa hi | -_Canoe_ |Menanka |Ahkeosehts |Lah kee hoon | -_River_ |Pasah ah |Naya tohta |Sa hon nee | -_Paddle_ |Manuk pah sho |..... |Natoh-catogh | -_Fish_ |Poh |Mummea |..... | -_Vermilion_ |Wah sah |Ahsain |Pa hate | -_Painter_ |Wah ka pooska |Ahsainahkee |..... | -_Whiskey_ |Men e pah da |Nah heeoh kee |Te son nan | -_Pipe_ |E hudka |Ahquayneman |Laps | -_Tobacco_ |Mannah sha |Pistacan |Lapscon | -_Gun_ |Eroopah |Nahma |Tnan kee | -_A man runs_ |Numohk p’ahush |Ohks kos moi nema |Sa rish ka tar ree | -_He eats_ |E roosh toosh |Oyeet |Te wa wa | -_I think_ |Wah push e dah hush |Neetasta |Nanto te wiska | -_I am old_ |Wah k’hee hush |Neetashpee |Nanto co nahose | -_She is young_ |Ea sook me hom mehan |Mahto mahxim |Tesoonock | -_Scalp_ |Pon dope khee |Otokan |San ish pa | -_Scalp dance_ |Pon dope khee nah pish|Otokan epascat |Pah te ra ka rohk | -_War dance_ |Keeruck sah nah pish |Soopascat |..... | -_White buffalo_ |Woka da |Eneuh quisix sinnuum |Toh n hah tah ka | -_Raven_ |Ka ka |Mastoa |To kah ka | -_Bear_ |Mahto |Keahyu |Koo nooghk | -_Antelope_ |Ko ka |Saw kee owa kasee |Annoo notche | -_Spirits, or Ghosts_ |Mounon he ka |Ah eene |..... | -_Wolf_ |Harratta |Ahpace |Steerich | -_Dog_ |Mones waroota |A meeteh |Hahtch | -_A brave_ |Numohk harica |Mahtsee |Too ne roose | -_A great chief_ |Numohk k’sbese k’tich |Ahecooa nin nah |Nay shon tee rehoo | -_Old woman_ |Rokah kah ksee ha |Kee pe tah kee |Sooht sabat | -_Fire_ |Wareday |Steea |Te ki eeht | -_Council fire_ |Kaherookah Waraday |Nahto steea |Ki eeht te warooht | -_Council house_ |Kaherookah kahar |Nahto yeweis |Warooht ta ko | -_Good-bye_ |..... |How |..... | -_One_ |Mah han nah |Jeh |Asco | -_Two_ |Nompah |Nah tohk |Pit co | -_Three_ |Namary |No oks kum |Tow wit | -_Four_ |Tohpa |Ne sooyim |Tchee tish | -_Five_ |Kakhoo |Ne see tsee |Tchee hoo | -_Six_ |Kemah |Nah oo |Tcha pis | -_Seven_ |Koo pah |E kitch ekum |To tcha pis | -_Eight_ |Ta tuck a |Nah ne suyim |To tcha pis won | -_Nine_ |Mah pa |Paex o |Nah e ne won | -_Ten_ |Perug |Kay pee |Nah en | -_Eleven_ |Auga mahannah |Kay pee nay tehee kopochee |Ko tchee te won | -_Twelve_ |Auga nompah |Kay pee nah kopochee |Pit co nah en | -_Thirteen_ |Auga namary |Kay pee nay ohk kopochee |Tow wit nah en | -_Fourteen_ |Auga tohpa |Kay pee nay say kopochee |Tchee tish nah en | -_Fifteen_ |Ag kak hoo |Kay pee ne see tchee kopochee|Tchee hoo nahen | -_Sixteen_ |Ag kemah |Kay pee nay kopochee |Tch a pis nahen | -_Seventeen_ |Ag koopah |Kay pee eh kee chie kopochee |To tcha pis nahen | -_Eighteen_ |Aga tah tucka |Kay pee nan esic kopochee |To tcha pis won nahen | -_Nineteen_ |Aga mahpa |Kay pee paex sickopochee |Nah e ne won nahen | -_Twenty_ |Nompah perug |Natchip pee |Weetah | -_Thirty_ |Namary amperug |Ne hippe |Sah wee | -_Forty_ |Toh pa amperug |Ne sippe |Nahen tchee tish | -_Fifty_ |Kah hoo amperug |Ne see chippe |Nahen tchee hoo | -_Sixty_ |Keemah amperug |Nah chippe |Nahen tchee pis | -_Seventy_ |Koopah amperug |O kitch chippe |Nahen to tcha pis | -_Eighty_ |Ta tuck amperug |Nahne sippe |Nah en te tcha pis won| -_Ninety_ |Mah pa amperug |Paex sippe |Nah en nah e ne won | -_One hundred_ |Ee sooc mah hannah |Kay pee pee pee |Shoh tan | -_One thousand_ |Ee sooc perug |Kay pee pee pee pee |Shoh tan tera hoo | - -----------------------+------------------------------+----------------------+ - ENGLISH. | SIOUX. | TUSKARORA. | -----------------------+------------------------------+----------------------+ -_I_ |Mi a |Ee | -_You_ |Nia |Eets | -_He_ |Dai |Rawonroo | -_She_ |Hai chay |Unroo | -_It_ |Dai Chay |Hay | -_We_ |On kia |Dinwuh | -_They_ |Ni a pe |Ka ka wen roo | -_Great Spirit_ |Wakon shecha |Ye wunni yoh | -_Evil Spirit_ |Wakon tonka |Katickuhraxhu | -_Medicine_ (_Mystery_)|Wa kon |Yunnu-kwat | -_Mystery-man_ |We chasha wakon |Yunnu kwat haw | -_Sacrifice_ |We oh pa |Yunnu wonus | -_Drum_ |Chon che a ha |Ye nuf hess | -_Rattle_ |Waga moo |Wuntits u runtha | -_Sun_ |Wee |Hiday | -_Moon_ |On wee |Autsunyehaw | -_Stars_ |We chash pe |Ojisnok | -_Rain_ |Ma how jea |Wara | -_Snow_ |Wah |Wun | -_Night_ |On ha pee |Autsunye | -_Day_ |On pah |Yor huh uh | -_Dark_ |Ee ohk pa zee |Yor wets a yuh | -_Light_ |O jan jee |Yoohooks | -_Heavy_ |Te kay |Wau wis na | -_Not heavy_ |Ka po jel la |Wau ri yos | -_Yes_ |How |Unhuh | -_No_ |Ea |Gwuss | -_Good_ |Wash tay |Wa gwast | -_Bad_ |Shee cha |Wa shuh | -_Very bad_ |Shee cha lahgcha |Array wa shuh | -_How do you do?_ |How ke che wa? |Dati yoot hay its? | -_Very well_ |Tran wou an |Arrav as gu nuh | -_I am sick_ |Ma koo je |Ee wak nu wax | -_Are you tired?_ |Won ne too ka? |Was na ra huh? | -_I am not tired_ |Won ne tooka shee ne |Grons a runk na rahouk| -_Look there_ |Wi a ka |Tsotkathoo | -_Come here_ |Ta ha na dah pe |Ka jee | -_Hot_ |Mush ta |Yoo nau ri hun | -_Cold_ |Sinnee |Aut hooh | -_Long_ |Honska |Ee wats | -_Short_ |Pe tah cha |Di wats a | -_War eagle_ |Wa me day wah kee |Akwiah | -_Buffalo_ |Pe tay |Hohats | -_Elk_ |Opon |Joowaroowa | -_Deer_ |Teh cha |Awgway | -_Beaver_ |Chapa |Jonockuh | -_Porcupine_ |..... |Onhatau | -_Horse_ |Shon ka wakon |Tyanootsruhuh | -_Robe_ |Shee na |Otskiyatsra | -_Moccasins_ |Hong pa |On ok qua | -_Shirt_ |O ken dee |..... | -_Leggings_ |Hons ka |Oristreh | -_Bow_ |Eta zee pah |Awraw | -_Quiver_ |O ju ah |Yonats ronarhoost pah | -_Arrow_ |Wonhee |Kanah | -_Shield_ |Woh ha chon k |Yununay nahquaw | -_Lance_ |Wow oo ke za |..... | -_Wigwam_ |Wah kee on |Onassahunwa | -_Woman_ |Wee on |Kau nuh wuh | -_Wife_ |We noh cha |..... | -_Child_ |Chin cha |Yetyatshoyuh | -_Girl_ |Wee chin cha |..... | -_Boy_ |Okee chin cha |Koonjookwher | -_Head_ |Pah |Otahra | -_Arms_ |Ees ta |Orunjha | -_Legs_ |Hoo |Orusay | -_Eyes_ |Ustah |Ookaray | -_Nose_ |Pah soo |Oojyasa | -_Mouth_ |Poo tay |Oosharunwa | -_Face_ |Ee tay |Ookahsa | -_Ears_ |Noh ghee |Ookahnay | -_Hands_ |Non pay |Ohahua | -_Fingers_ |..... |Oosookway | -_Foot_ |See |Oosa | -_Hair_ |Pay kee |Auwayrah | -_Canoe_ |Wahta |Oohuwa | -_River_ |Wah ta pah |Kinah | -_Paddle_ |Ee chah bo ka |Okawatsreh | -_Fish_ |Oh hong |Runjiuh | -_Vermilion_ |..... |Yout kojun ya | -_Painter_ |Ee cha zoo kah ga |Ah ah | -_Whiskey_ |Me ne wah ka |Wis ky | -_Pipe_ |Tchon de oopa |Yet jy arhoot hah | -_Tobacco_ |Tchondee |Jarhooh | -_Gun_ |Mon za wakon |Au naw | -_A man runs_ |We chasha ee onka |..... | -_He eats_ |U tah pee |yusyhoory | -_I think_ |Ee me doo ke cha |Kary | -_I am old_ |We ma chah cha |Auk hoor | -_She is young_ |Ha chee nah tum pee |Akatsah | -_Scalp_ |Wecha sha pa |..... | -_Scalp dance_ |Wah kee ta no wah |Onahray na yun kwah | -_War dance_ |..... |Ne yunk wah | -_White buffalo_ |Ta his ka |Owaryakuh | -_Raven_ |Kong hee |..... | -_Bear_ |Matto |Jotary yukoh | -_Antelope_ |Tah to ka no |Ojiruk | -_Spirits, or Ghosts_ |Wa nough hgee |Oonowak | -_Wolf_ |..... |Tskwarinuh | -_Dog_ |Shon ka |Jir | -_A brave_ |O eet e ka |..... | -_A great chief_ |We chasha on ta pe ka |Yego wa nuh | -_Old woman_ |Wa kon kana |Kaskwary | -_Fire_ |Pah ta |Yoneks | -_Council fire_ |Pah ta wah |..... | -_Council house_ |Te pe wah ka |Yunt kunis ah thah | -_Good-bye_ |How ke che wa |Tyowits nah na | -_One_ |On je |Unji | -_Two_ |Non pa |Nekty | -_Three_ |Hi ami ni |Au suh | -_Four_ |Tau pah |Hun tak | -_Five_ |Za pe tah |Wisk | -_Six_ |Shah pai |Ooyak | -_Seven_ |Shah co |Jarnak | -_Eight_ |Shah en do hen |Nakruh | -_Nine_ |Nen pe che onca |Ni ruh | -_Ten_ |Oka che min en |Wutsuh | -_Eleven_ |Oka on je |Unjits kahar | -_Twelve_ |Oka nonpa |Nekty tskahar | -_Thirteen_ |Oka hiamini |Au su tskahar | -_Fourteen_ |Oka tau pah |Untak tskahar | -_Fifteen_ |Oka za petah |Wisk tskahar | -_Sixteen_ |Oka shah pai |Ooyok tskahar | -_Seventeen_ |Oka shahko |Jarnak tskahar | -_Eighteen_ |Oka shah en do hen |Nakruh tskahar | -_Nineteen_ |Oka nen pe chi on ka |Niruh tskahar | -_Twenty_ |Oka chiminen non pa |Na wots huh | -_Thirty_ |Oka chiminen hiamini |Au suh tiwotshuh | -_Forty_ |Oka chiminen taupah |Huntak tiwotshuh | -_Fifty_ |Oka chiminen za petah |Wisk tiwotshuh | -_Sixty_ |Oka chiminen shah pai |Ooyak tiwotshuh | -_Seventy_ |Oka chiminen shahco |Jannak tiwotshuh | -_Eighty_ |Oka chiminen sha hen do hen |Naknuh tiwotshuh | -_Ninety_ |Oka chiminen nen pe chee on ca|Ninuh tiwotshuh | -_One hundred_ |O pounkrai |Kau yaustry | -_One thousand_ |Kaut o poun krai |Wutsu-kau yaustry | - - - - - APPENDIX—C. - - CHARACTER.—(+Page+ 256.) - - _Original._ _Secondary._ - - Handsome Ugly - Mild Austere - Modest Diffident - Virtuous Libidinous - Temperate Dissipated - Free Enslaved - Active Crippled - Affable Reserved - Social Taciturn - Hospitable Hospitable - Charitable Charitable - Religious Religious - Worshipful Worshipful - Credulous Suspicious - Superstitious Superstitious - Bold Timid - Straight Crooked - Graceful Graceless - Cleanly Filthy - Brave Brave - Revengeful Revengeful - Jealous Jealous - Cruel Cruel - Warlike Peaceable - Proud Humble - Honest Honest - Honourable Honourable - Ignorant Conceited - Vain Humble - Eloquent Eloquent - Independent Dependent - Grateful Grateful - Happy Miserable - Healthy Sickly - Long-lived Short-lived - Red Pale-red - Sober Drunken - Wild Wild - Increasing Decreasing - Faithful Faithful - Stout-hearted Broken-hearted - Indolent Indolent - Full-blood Mixed-blood - Living Dying - Rich Poor - Landholders Beggars - - - FINIS. - - - Transcriber’s Notes: - - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equals is in antiqua (=antiqua=). - - Text enclosed by pluses is in small caps (+Small Caps+). - - Blank pages have been removed. - - Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - - All illustrations are attributed to _G. Catlin_. - - There are no illustrations 246 and 247, and some are out of - sequence. - - “Plate” numbers on pages with illustrations are excluded from the - text version as they seem to serve no purpose. +Plate+ number - references in the text are for the image numbers. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MANNERS, -CUSTOMS, & CONDITION OF THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS, VOL. 2 (OF 2) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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