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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of William H. Richardson, a private soldier in the campaign of New and Old Mexico, by William H. Richardson</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Journal of William H. Richardson, a private soldier in the campaign of New and Old Mexico</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>Under the command of Colonel Doniphan of Missouri</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: William H. Richardson</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 22, 2022 [eBook #68587]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: David E. Brown and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON, A PRIVATE SOLDIER IN THE CAMPAIGN OF NEW AND OLD MEXICO ***</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter hide"><img src="images/coversmall.jpg" width="450" alt="" /></div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i002.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">MARCHING THROUGH A JORNADA. <span class="gap"> Page <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="titlepage">
-
-<h1>JOURNAL<br />
-<span class="tiny">OF</span><br />
-WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON,<br />
-<span class="small">A PRIVATE SOLDIER</span><br />
-<span class="tiny">IN THE CAMPAIGN OF</span><br />
-<span class="antiqua">New and Old Mexico,</span><br />
-<span class="tiny">UNDER THE COMMAND OF</span><br />
-<span class="small">COLONEL DONIPHAN</span><br />
-<span class="tiny">OF MISSOURI.</span></h1>
-
-<p>SECOND EDITION.</p>
-
-<p><span class="large">BALTIMORE:</span><br />
-JOHN W. WOODS, PRINTER.<br />
-<br />
-1848.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p class="center">Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1848, by <span class="smcap">William H.<br />
-Richardson</span>, in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of Maryland.</p>
-</div>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak">JOURNAL.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">I left</span> my home on West River, Anne Arundel
-County, Md., the 11th November, 1845, for a southern
-tour, and after visiting the principal places of the south
-and west, inspecting the country, and meeting with
-adventures familiar to all who travel, I found myself,
-the following spring, located permanently a few miles
-from Carrollton, Carroll County, Missouri, boarding in
-the family of Judge Rea, a clever gentlemanly man.
-Here I formed numerous acquaintances, among them,
-an old Capt. Markle, who informed me of his intention
-to visit California, and depicted in glowing terms the
-pleasure of travelling in new countries, &amp;c. In the
-meantime, a company of mounted volunteers was being
-formed in the neighborhood, under Capt. Williams, in
-which many young men whom I knew, had enlisted.
-This, together with the enthusiasm which prevailed at
-a public meeting on the 4th of July, (when the ladies
-of Carrollton presented the company a beautiful flag,
-and many speeches were made)—caused me to decide
-and join the company. I immediately set about preparing—bought
-my regimentals, canteen, saddlebags,
-also some books and a writing apparatus for convenience
-in noting down the occurrences of each day,
-thinking it probable, should I live to return, it might be
-a source of amusement to my friends in Maryland.</p>
-
-<p><i>August 4th, 1846.</i>—This morning we started for Fort
-Leavenworth. Many of my friends came to take breakfast
-with me at Squire Dorr’s. We met our Captain at
-Carrollton, where a public dinner was given. The company
-formed and marched to the table in order. In the
-evening we mounted our fine horses and proceeded out
-of town. We passed the Prairie, 30 miles wide, and rode<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>
-as far as the residence of Dr. Arnold. There were fifteen
-of us in company, separated from the rest, and all in
-search of quarters.</p>
-
-<p>Having to water our horses, the Doctor directed us
-where to go. The way was plainly pointed out, but to
-our astonishment, we all got lost in the timber. We
-rode till very late, and might have been put to great inconvenience,
-had we not met with a servant who set us right.
-We returned to the Doctor’s to muse on our mishap and
-enjoy more hospitality. An ominous beginning for a soldier’s
-life.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—Started this morning in company with the Doctor
-and his lady, who went with us eight miles to Lexington,
-and thence to Richmond, where we arrived at 4 o’clock.
-A few miles further on we encamped. I rode all this day
-without my dinner. Having had opportunity to become
-better acquainted with my Captain and other officers, I
-find them very clever and kind.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—I discovered this morning that my horse was lame
-from tightness of his shoes. Went to town to a blacksmith
-who re-shod him. The company could not wait
-for me, and I travelled alone through a beautiful forest of
-sugar trees. Passed Elke Horn, and rode until within
-six miles of Liberty. Here I found our baggage team
-had given out. Our Captain had gone ahead with the
-company, and left the second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith, in
-charge. I discovered Lieutenant Smith to be a man of very
-tender feelings. Several of our company were taken
-with chills to-night, which is rather discouraging.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—At day-light this morning our train was under
-way, arrived in town to breakfast, after which our Captain
-marched us all over the city. It is a beautiful inland
-place of 1000 inhabitants. Fifteen miles further on, we
-met our first Lieutenant, just from the Fort. He told us
-to hurry on and get mustered into service before the other
-companies should crowd in. We hurried accordingly and
-reached Platt City at sunset. I was fatigued and hungry,
-and went into the hotel to get my supper, when I
-came out, I found our third Lieutenant had come up
-with the rest of the men, and were ready to start for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>
-ferry. I went on with them. We arrived at the ferry,
-opposite Fort Leavenworth, about 12 o’clock at night. I
-went in search of something for my horse. There was a
-widow lady living near, to whom I applied, and she very
-pleasantly told me “to go to the crib and help myself.”
-I went, fed my horse, and spent the rest of the night on
-the unhusked ears in the crib, where I slept soundly.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—Rose early and went in search of my Captain.
-Found him, with many others, between some fallen trees,
-wrapped up in their blankets, fast asleep on the sand.
-We soon prepared for crossing the river, which I felt to
-be the bidding adieu to friends and home, and almost civilization
-itself. I was the only one who had taken refreshment.
-It was fortunate for me that I had made a
-second visit to the widow and obtained a good breakfast.
-We were soon all safely over the ferry, 85 in number, men
-of all grades and dispositions, some very facetious, and
-others reserved and thoughtful. We were all huddled together,
-and ordered to form in double file, to proceed two
-miles from the Fort to erect our tents. We had to wait some
-time for the wagons which contained our provisions, consisting
-of mess pork, sugar, coffee, &amp;c. The head of
-each mess—six in number, had to apply to the Sergeant
-for the necessary supplies. Having been appointed to the
-charge of my mess, I went up, took my share, and helped
-the men to theirs. The first meal I tasted in the Indian
-territory was supper, and such a supper! It was composed
-of hard water crackers and mess pork, which would cut
-five inches through the ribs. I boiled my pork for nearly
-two hours, and found it still so tough that it was harder labor
-than I had been at all day to eat it. Necessity is the
-mother of invention, and I fell upon an expedient by
-which to despatch it, I took it out, stewed and fried it.
-But it was yet spongy and stuck in my teeth. I made
-out, however, with the assistance of a keen appetite; and
-being very tired, I laid myself down on my blanket in
-the tent. I had not lain many minutes when our Orderly
-came by, calling upon the men to form a line. We had
-much rather slept, but to obey was our duty, and we
-were soon in the line. We were then drilled by a young<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>
-officer from the Fort. After drill, the officers commenced
-counting us off from right to left, and every fourth man
-had to stand guard.</p>
-
-<p>I was taken as one of the fourth men and placed with
-eleven others at No. 1, where I had to walk my post two
-hours. It was quite long enough for a beginning, and I
-resigned the post with pleasure when the time expired.
-At 12 o’clock the relief guard put a man in my place, and
-I went rejoicing to my rest.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 9th.</i>—This morning I had to get breakfast for
-the first time in my life; I was perfectly green at the business,
-but it had to be done. I filled the kettle with water,
-browned my coffee, fried the pork, &amp;c. I went on very
-well until by an unlucky mishap I upset the kettle, and
-put out the fire. Nothing daunted by the misfortune, I
-entered upon another trial and was more successful. We
-paraded immediately after breakfast, and prepared to go
-to the Fort, where we had the honor of being mustered
-into service by our Colonel. He called our names, and
-as each passed before him he was asked his age, and as
-many other questions as would afford a pretty good description
-of his person and history of his life. The Articles
-of War were then read and we formed a line and returned
-to camp. The roll was called soon after, and all
-that were not present, had to keep guard. So much for
-playing truant on an occasion of so much importance. I
-was fortunate enough to be present and escaped the infliction.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—The past two or three days were employed in
-strict attention to the duties of a soldier, such as cooking,
-drilling, &amp;c. To-day, Col. Price assembled the whole
-regiment at the Fort, to have an appraisement of horses,
-saddles, &amp;c. In the afternoon I rode back to the encampment
-on a large bag of beef in the hot sun. A severe
-headache was my travelling companion.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—Yesterday and to-day we had a terrible job,
-breaking mules to the wagons. It is difficult to muster
-these stubborn animals into service. I, with a fellow
-soldier, was detained from the Fort till a late hour.
-We were employed in the novel pursuit of pulling two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>
-of the mules by main force through the hazel bushes two
-miles. Only think of it! Two of Uncle Sam’s worthies
-pulling a jackass apiece two miles through the bushes.
-While at the Fort I called on the minister, who was
-very kind and affectionate in his conversation and manners.
-He presented me a Testament, Prayer Book, and
-a bundle of Tracts—at night we threw copies into each
-tent, and then sung hymns until it was time to retire.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—This was our washing day. I went with the
-rest of the b’hoys, to the branch, where we kindled three
-large fires, and put up our camp kettles to boil the
-clothes. I never boiled any before, and I felt pretty
-much as I did when I began to cook breakfast. I went
-to work awkwardly enough, as my scalded hands bore
-witness. But a man can even wash his clothes when he
-is obliged to do it, the opinions of the ladies to the contrary
-notwithstanding. In the evening we ceased our
-labors as washers of clothes and went into the branch
-and washed ourselves. After bathing we returned to
-camp quite refreshed.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 16th.</i>—This morning I thought I would hear
-the Missionary preach—and with several others, started
-for the purpose. Just before we got to the village, an
-Indian informed us there would be no preaching that
-day. We were greatly disappointed, and turned to wander
-about awhile and survey the country around. It was
-wild and picturesque, and the sight of it was gratifying.
-We met a number of Indians. Their language and
-gesture were very strange, and they presented a most
-outlandish appearance. Many of them came into our
-camp with a variety of things to sell. When we returned,
-our camp was nearly deserted. The men had
-gone to the Fort for equipments to commence our march.
-We hurried on, but only to be disappointed again. Too
-many companies were in before us. We went back to
-the camp, and spent the day quietly.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—Every man was well fitted out with a musket
-and fifteen cartridges, a load of guns having been brought
-from the Fort. I have now become accustomed to implicit
-obedience to orders—going and returning on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>
-errands to the Fort—breaking mules, looking for strayed
-horses, cooking breakfast, washing clothes, &amp;c. At night
-it rained hard, and while I tried to compose myself to
-sleep, I felt the shower dripping in my face.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—The important morning had now arrived. It
-was the morning on which we were to “strike our tents,
-and march away” for California. All was bustle and
-excitement, and we poor privates had to load the wagons
-with provisions for our long march. It fell to my
-lot as usual, to handle the bacon, pork, &amp;c. And yet
-another trial awaited me: we had not travelled more
-than a mile, when we came to a deep slough or pond,
-through which I had to guide a mule. It was the first
-time I had the honor of leading a mule in gears. I had
-to dismount and wade through thick mud up to my waist.
-I had rather carried the mule on my back over a better
-road. What made the matter worse, I had my new clothes
-on, and they were almost ruined by the adventure. On
-stopping to encamp, a messmate kindly poured on water,
-while I washed the mud off, as well as I could, and
-laid down in my wet garments, very weary with my
-day’s journey.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—We are now fairly in the Indian country.
-The place assigned by the Government for the future
-residence of the tribes who have emigrated from the
-States. Here we found the prairies covered with grass—a
-seasonable supply for our horses, and a drove of
-ninety-five beeves which we had brought out for present
-use. A strong guard was stationed around the encampment,
-at night, as roving bands of Indians were lurking
-around us, ready to seize any thing they could lay their
-hands on. We had travelled 12 miles when our Captain
-thought it best to encamp for the night, as we found a
-little wood. The want of timber is a great defect in this
-otherwise beautiful country.</p>
-
-<p><i>22nd.</i>—We started this morning at 8 o’clock, and travelled
-15 miles through a lovely region, when we came to
-a settlement of the Delaware Indians. Their houses and
-plantations bear evident marks of civilization. In company
-with our first Lieutenant, I called at a house, in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>
-door of which sat two squaws making moccasons.
-Stretched on a bench near by, lay an Indian fast asleep.
-He was a man of most powerful dimensions, at least
-six feet four, and fat withal. By his side rested a club
-full of notches. We did not care to disturb his repose,
-for we had slight misgivings that a notch or two more in
-that fatal war club, might record the finale of our own
-history. We left him to his slumber and hastened to
-the river where we found several companies of our companions
-buying and selling among the squaws. Whiskey was
-the principal commodity, and a number of Indians were so
-much intoxicated that they could hardly tell a tree from a
-moccason. The ferry is kept by the Indians. The
-Kansas river at this place is a bold stream, it was, nevertheless,
-safely passed by all, using boats only for our
-wagons; about sunset all landed and we encamped
-about a mile from the river.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 23d.</i>—Again we started on our journey.
-After the first ten miles of a broken country, some high
-hills appeared. They were very difficult of ascent, and
-we had much trouble with our teams. In two places
-we had to put our shoulders to the wheels. Orders were
-given that every man should secure what wood he could
-find, and we commenced packing it before us, on our
-horses. A picturesque scene we must have presented,
-each man with his load of wood before him on his horse.
-While riding in this way we overtook Lieutenant Col.
-Mitchell.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—After passing a few clumps of trees, an immense
-prairie spread out before us, extending as far as
-the eye could reach. At 12 o’clock we came to a branch
-and encamped. The water here is in standing pools,
-and before drinking or making coffee, we were obliged
-to strain it through our handkerchiefs. While thus engaged,
-two Indians of the Sac Tribe, made their appearance.
-They were elegantly mounted, but painted and
-tattooed in a frightful manner. They are smaller in stature
-than the Delawares, and at war with them. They
-called at our camp as a matter of curiosity. One of my
-mess, Levi Flowers, received a severe kick in his face<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>
-from a horse which nearly killed him. His face was very
-much swollen.</p>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—The companies are now all united—having
-overtaken each other at different places. Our force was
-1200 strong. We travelled all day in sight of trees like
-little dots on the horizon. At the end of our day’s march
-we hoped to find water, <i>good</i> water, which our poor fellows
-needed after a long hot march, with nothing to protect
-their heads from the rays of the sun but small glazed
-caps. The goal was reached. We rested beneath the
-shade of a small skirt of woods.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—As usual, 8 o’clock found us ready to start. After
-a march of 14 miles, we encamped on Beaver Creek.
-We killed a beef—and the soldiers busied themselves in
-cooking supper. Not having conveniences of home at
-hand, we dispensed with our dinner daily, and satisfied
-ourselves with eating morning and night. Our Captain is
-a good sort of a man and will no doubt do the best he can
-for us. And now while speaking of the Captain I will
-say a word or two about our Lieutenants. Our first
-Lieutenant, Mr. White, is nearly always in a good humor.
-He is large and somewhat corpulent—enjoys a laugh
-very much. He weighs 220<i>lbs.</i> net. Our second Lieutenant,
-Mr. Smith, is of the middle size, very facetious,
-and always ready to accommodate. Our third Lieutenant,
-Mr. Rock, was formerly Captain of Militia, but volunteering
-to go with the army to California, we elected
-him third Lieutenant. He is a little over the middle
-size, and very reserved and stately.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—After travelling twelve miles we reached the
-encampment of the Marion company, where we found a
-poor fellow who was accidentally shot last night, by a
-revolving pistol. Two men are left to take care of him.
-It is thought he cannot survive. Poor fellow! His
-fate is a sad one. Pursuing our journey, we passed
-Beaver Creek, and after travelling 18 miles, came to the
-Big John River, where we encamped for the night.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i014.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">A CAMP WASHING DAY.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—The Captain told us this morning that we should
-stop here for a day or two to rest ourselves. And now
-began a most ludicrous scene. Every camp kettle and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>
-other vessel that would hold water was brought in requisition,
-and the whole regiment commenced washing
-their clothes. To me it was a most singular sight.
-While rubbing away at our clothes a rumor reached us
-that we were on the route to Santa Fe, instead of California.
-This was news, and what with washing and what
-with talking we were kept pretty busy. On the route to
-Santa Fe, though we entered the journey for California.
-But alas! no matter where we are. We found our trip
-was not a “pleasure excursion,” as many of our imaginations
-had so often pictured. The two soldiers we left
-to-day have just come in, after digging the grave of their
-poor comrade.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—This morning we caught some black trout and
-cat fish in the Big John. They were very fine. Col.
-Price had gone ahead, and at 12 o’clock we struck our
-tents, passed Council Grove, and encamped at 2 o’clock
-a few miles further on, where there is a blacksmith shop,
-established by the government. Here I left letters for
-my friends in Maryland, to be carried back by the return
-mail to Fort Leavenworth.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 30th.</i>—Saw near the road, one of those singular
-mounds, of which I have so often read. It towered
-beautifully to the height of 100 feet. It may have
-been a mount of observation; it may be filled with the
-bones of the red men of the forest. I have no time, however,
-to speculate upon subjects so foreign from my present
-employment. At the end of 8 miles, we came
-to Rock Creek, and 7 miles further we arrived at Diamond
-Spring, where we halted for the night.</p>
-
-<p><i>31st.</i>—This morning I filled my canteen with the refreshing
-water of Diamond Spring. At the spring I counted
-45 wagons loaded with provisions for the army. Yesterday
-we entered upon the far-famed <i>plains</i> at Rock
-Creek. The scenery presents a dull monotony, a vast
-plain, almost level, bounded by the horizon and covered
-with a thin sward and herbage.</p>
-
-<p><i>September 1st.</i>—Came to a place, called the “Lost
-Spring,” a most singular curiosity. The stream rises
-suddenly out of the ground, and after rushing over the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>
-sand a few yards, as suddenly sinks, and is no more
-seen.</p>
-
-<p><i>2nd.</i>—To-day we are at the Cotton Wood Fork. It
-takes its name from a large cluster of cotton trees, the
-first I had seen after leaving Diamond Spring. There is
-a good stream of water here, and we enjoyed the blessing
-of a fine shower of rain. A little misunderstanding
-took place among the officers about starting. Some of
-them were too slow in their movements and caused our
-Captain to collect his men and make a speech. Several
-of the men were disgusted and become uproarious. A
-march of eight miles, however, to Turkey Creek, settled
-the question, and all appeared in pretty good humor.
-Three miles further on, we came to 2nd Turkey Creek,
-nine miles beyond to 3rd Turkey Creek and encamped.
-Turkey Creeks are plenty in this vicinity. How we
-would have rejoiced if the turkeys had been as plenty as
-the titles of the streams indicated. Third Turkey Creek
-is a lovely stream, running through the prairie. Here
-we wanted wood to cook with. As yet we had not seen
-any game with the exception of two rabbits, caught by
-our men. They were of a novel species, almost white,
-with long black ears, and as large as a grey fox.</p>
-
-<p><i>3rd.</i>—About 12 o’clock to-day we came in sight of
-timber. Passed the 4th Turkey Creek, and after travelling
-18 miles, encamped on the banks of the little Arkansas,
-which at some seasons is a bold stream, with tremendous
-cliffs that can be seen at a long distance.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—We are all huddled together in our tents, in consequence
-of a heavy storm of wind and rain, which came
-on last night. Some of the tents blew down, and most
-of the company were in a bad fix. Fires were necessary
-to keep us warm. We left at 8 o’clock, and after travelling
-10 miles, came to Owl Creek. Five miles from
-Owl Creek we reached Cow Creek, where we encamped.
-On the left we could see cliffs and timber at a great distance,
-and some small white spots like sand hills. On
-the right, nothing but a vast prairie. Just before we arrived
-at the Cow Creek an antelope was started. Our
-boys gave chase and fired several times, but they missed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>
-him and he finally escaped. They must shoot better in
-fight with the enemy. We had scarcely fixed up our tents,
-when the news came that a buffalo was in sight. In an
-instant, men on horseback, fully armed, were in pursuit
-from every direction. He was less fortunate than the
-antelope. The men had improved a little and they overtook
-their game after a considerable chase, during which
-they fired fifty times. They killed him at last and brought
-some of the flesh to the camp. It was of very little use,
-for with all our cooking, it was too tough to eat. He
-was a bull at least 20 years old. We had better let the
-old patriarch run.</p>
-
-<p><i>Arkansas Bend, Saturday, 6th.</i>—Here we stopped
-last night, after a most exciting day. Herds of buffalo
-were seen scattered over the plains. The best hunters
-were picked out to secure as many as possible. The chase
-was a fine one, 13 were killed by the different companies.
-I strolled away from camp alone, to one of those mysterious
-mounds, which occur so frequently to the traveller
-among these wilds. On ascending it, I enjoyed a most
-magnificent prospect. It has the appearance of a Fort,
-but when and for what purpose erected will long remain
-a matter of uncertainty. I lingered so long that on my
-return I found that my company had gone forward, but I
-soon overtook them. To-day we come to Walnut Creek,
-6 miles from the mound. I felt stupid and sick; as I
-was placed on guard last night, on the banks of the Arkansas.
-I was all alone in the deep midnight, and I sat
-three long hours, with my musket; looking up and down
-the stream. I could see a great distance, as the sand on
-the shore is very white.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—We were preparing to take a buffalo chase,
-when word was brought that the whole command must
-be moving. We were much disappointed, for we expected
-fine sport in the chase. On our route to-day, we
-passed Ash Creek, and five miles on came to Pawnee
-Fork. We saw herds of buffalo, and surrounded one,
-but they made a break towards the road and crossed
-among the teams. They did no damage, however, nor
-was much damage done to them. I rode on briskly to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>
-overtake a friend, when my horse trod in a hole made by
-prairie dogs, (a small animal and very numerous here,)
-and fell with me. I received no injury except a little
-skin rubbed off my knee. On remounting, my attention
-was arrested by a horse running at full speed, and dragging
-something on the ground. When he came closer,
-I discovered it to be a man whom his horse had thrown.
-The frightened animal stopped a little ahead of me and I
-rode up, expecting to see a dead man, but as soon as his
-foot was extricated from the stirrup, to the surprise of all,
-he stood up, and said that he was not much hurt. He said
-he regretted most of all the loss of his clothes, which
-were torn in shreds from his body. Another man belonging
-to our company, by the name of Redwine, had
-a severe fall. He was taken in to camp nearly dead.
-Chase was made again after buffalo, which appeared in
-thousands. Many antelopes also appeared, but it requires
-the fleetest horses to overtake them. Before we
-encamped we saw near the road side a little mound of
-stones, on one of which was engraved the name of R.
-T. Ross. It was supposed to be the grave of a man
-who was murdered by the Indians in 1840. He is resting
-in a lonely spot.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—We are now on the banks of the great Arkansas
-river, after marching many miles through a barren and
-dreary looking country, almost destitute of grass or herbage.
-Here there is some improvement in this respect.
-A heavy rain caused our tents to leak, and drenched the
-poor soldiers, so that they passed a very uncomfortable
-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—Kept up the river ten miles. A few scattered
-cotton trees, and cliffs, and sand banks are the only things
-to be seen. One of Col. Mitchell’s men was near being
-killed to-day by an Indian. He had chased a buffalo two
-miles from camp, when an arrow was shot, which pierced
-his clothes; the poor fellow made all the haste he could
-to camp with the arrow sticking in his pants. It was
-well it was not in his skin.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—Last night as soon as we were all snugly fixed,
-and ready for sleep, there arose a fearful storm of wind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>
-and rain, which gave our tents and ourselves a good
-shaking. Some of the tents were blown down, breaking
-in their fall the ridgepoles of others, and bringing
-them down also. In our tent, four of us held on with all
-our might, for nearly two hours, to keep it standing. To-day
-we continued our march, travelling 15 miles, on the
-banks of the river. We saw a large flock of wild geese
-and tried to get a shot, but without success. They were
-too wild for us.</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—The weather was quite cold this morning, and
-there was so dense a fog as to prevent us from seeing a
-hundred yards ahead. There was an antelope killed to-day.
-The flesh tasted like mutton. We encamped by
-the side of the river, and an opportunity was afforded us
-of catching fish, which we accomplished by the novel
-mode of spearing them with the bayonet. Several
-dozens were caught, and we found them delicious.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—Resumed our journey through the same scenery
-12 miles—many antelopes were seen in herds, and prairie
-dogs barked at us, in every direction.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 13th.</i>—As we proceed, the country assumes
-a still more dreary aspect, bare of verdure, and broken
-in ridges of sand. Our horses, enfeebled by their long
-travel, have very little to subsist on. The men too, for
-the past three days, have ceased to receive rations of
-sugar and coffee. When we could not get these articles,
-we did as they do in France—that is, without them. We
-had to fry our meat, and a few of us entered upon the
-funny work of making soup out of pork, buffalo flesh,
-and fish, boiled up together. It was a rare mess, but we
-pronounced it first rate.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—After passing over the last 15 miles to-day,
-we found ourselves at a place called the crossing of the
-Arkansas. We were then 362 miles from Fort Leavenworth.
-Our course has been along the margin of the
-river for 75 miles. At this place are steep bluffs difficult
-to descend. There are multitudes of fish in the river,
-many of them were killed by the horses’ feet in crossing.
-We caught several varieties by spearing. A number of
-antelopes were killed here.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span><i>15th.</i>—This morning I felt very dull from loss of rest.
-We had to give considerable attention to the cattle,
-horses, &amp;c., to prevent them from straying. I and seven
-others were detailed to stand sentinel. I was appointed
-to the second watch, and to be in readiness at the hour,
-I spread my blanket down in the prairie to take a nap.
-In two hours I was awakened, and instructed to arouse
-the Captain of the Watch at the expiration of three hours
-more; having no means to measure the time but by my
-own sad thoughts, and the weary hours being rather
-tardy, I too soon obeyed the orders, and kept the last
-watch on duty five hours, to the amusement of all. After
-breakfast I took a stroll over the sand hills, and found about
-a dozen of our boys, inspecting the contents of a large
-basket, something like a hamper in which the merchants
-pack earthenware. It contained the skeleton of an
-Indian chief in a sitting posture, wrapped in buffalo robes,
-with his arrows, belts, beads, cooking utensils, &amp;c. It
-had fallen from the limb of a tree, on which it had been
-suspended. Several of the men picked up the beads,
-and one named Waters carried the lower jaw and skull
-to camp, the latter he said he intended “to make a soup
-gourd of.”</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—I took my seat quietly in the tent this morning
-and thought I would rest, as we were to stay a day
-or two at this place. I was presently surrounded by
-soldiers begging me to write a few lines for them “to
-father, mother, wives, friends and homes.” I wrote <i>seven</i>
-letters without removing from a kneeling posture, and
-was kept busy almost the whole day.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—Our Captain told us to get ready to start at
-10 o’clock to-day, and as we were to cross a sandy
-desert 60 miles wide, much water and provisions were
-to be packed. A number of us were kept busy cleaning
-the salt from pork barrels in order to fill them with water.
-Scarcely had we finished this hard job; when the news
-spread like electricity “that the mail from Fort Leavenworth
-had come in.” I cannot pretend to describe the
-scene that ensued. I met our Captain, who said “the
-Sergeant had a letter for me”—with the most peculiar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>
-feelings I seized it and saw the hand-writing of my loved
-sister in Maryland—my home, now so many weary leagues
-away. The delight I experienced was not unmingled,
-however, with the thought that perhaps at this very spot,
-the entrance to a wild desert, I had bid adieu finally to
-all I held dear. We travelled 22 miles, and as it was
-late at night when we halted, we spread our blankets on
-the sand and slept soundly till morning.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—I rose by day-light and took a slice of bread
-and meat. We started early and came 23 miles, where
-we found some water standing in pools. We tried to
-erect the tents, but the wind was too high—had to cook
-that night with <i>buffalo chips</i>; strange fuel even for soldiers
-to use.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—After marching 10 miles to-day, we came to
-the Cimarone Springs—a sweet stream. Here we found
-grass enough for our poor horses. It is truly an oasis
-in the <i>desert</i>.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 20th.</i>—We crossed an arm of the Cimarone,
-but the waters were dried up—dug for water but found
-none. Went on 5 miles further, dug again, and procured
-enough for ourselves and horses. In our route of 25
-miles we saw the ground encrusted with salt. A singular
-animal attracted our notice. It was a horned frog,
-a great curiosity. Every thing was involved in a thick
-cloud of dust.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—One of the members of the Randolph Company,
-a gentleman by the name of Jones, died last night of
-consumption. He took the trip for his health, but to-day
-his remains were interred, not far from the camp, with
-the honors of war.</p>
-
-<p><i>22nd.</i>—We still travelled on the Cimarone, though
-only at certain places could we procure water. A deep
-sand retarded the progress of the army. On arriving
-where we had to encamp we found 42 wagons, laden
-with goods. They were the property of a Mr. Gentry,
-a trader who has amassed great wealth, in merchandising
-between Independence, Santa Fe and Chihuahua. He
-speaks the Spanish language, and had nearly a dozen
-Spaniards in the caravan.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span><i>23d.</i>—We had a considerable storm last night—and
-the hard rain made it rather disagreeable, especially so to
-me, as I had to do the duty of a sentinel in the first watch,
-with a wolf howling most dismally within 50 yards of
-me. I would have fired at him, but I had to obey orders
-and not arouse the camp by a false alarm. We saw to-day
-the bones of 91 mules, which perished in a snow-storm
-last winter. The bones were piled by the road
-side.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—Overtook another caravan—still passing up the
-Cimarone, whose bed is through the sandy plain, at
-length we came to a hill from whence we descried the
-Rocky Mountains, rising abruptly in the distance. In
-our route we crossed a small spur. Mr. White our first
-Lieutenant, with several others ascended one, which
-presented the appearance of frowning rocky precipices.
-From its highest peaks, he brought down seashell, and
-petrifactions of various kinds. We had great difficulty
-in procuring buffalo chips. It was very amusing to see
-the boys in search of this indispensable article, our only
-resource to cook with.</p>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—We reached “Cool Spring” to-day, and found
-refreshing and delightful water, bursting from a solitary
-rock of enormous dimensions, the sides of which are
-covered with the names of various travellers. Our pleasant
-officer, Mr. White, called me up saying “he wished
-to see my name on a spot he pointed out,”—so taking a
-hearty draught from his canteen, which was just filled, I
-went up, and had scarcely carved my name, to remain
-there a monument of my folly, I suppose, when I discovered
-my horse making off with my accoutrements, canteen,
-&amp;c. Hurried down and started after the beast. After
-running a great distance in the deep sand, I succeeded
-in capturing the runaway. Nineteen miles further on
-we encamped in a deep ravine, among cliffs and rocks,
-here a few cedar trees were found. They afforded a
-seasonable supply of wood to cook with. The Rocky
-Mountains were in sight all day.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—After a slight breakfast of bread and meat, we
-left this inhospitable place in disgust. It did not afford<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>
-grass for our horses to graze on. We proceeded 12
-miles through a dreary waste, and had to encamp at night
-in a place where there was no water.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—I was awakened by the Sergeant of the Guard
-at 2 o’clock this morning, it being my turn to stand sentinel
-of the morning watch. After breakfast we went on
-15 miles to Cotton Wood Creek. There we fixed up our
-tents, but no forage being found for our half-starved animals,
-we soon took them down again, and proceeded 5 miles
-on, to Rabbit Creek. At this place there was plenty of
-grass and some tolerable scenery, but we were in no condition
-to enjoy it; being late in the night we spread
-our blankets on the prairie, and composed our wearied
-limbs to rest.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—Our journey was still continued through a dry
-and sterile land, where there is neither wood, water, nor
-grass; late in the evening we came to a pool of water.
-It was cool and good, and we drank of it freely. Our
-wagons did not come up till very late, and being tired,
-we wrapped ourselves in our blankets and laid down to
-sleep without our supper. We went supperless, not to
-bed—but to the sod.</p>
-
-<p><i>October 1st.</i>—The last two days of September we remained
-at a place called Whetstone Creek, to rest. This
-Whetstone Creek is another oasis. It was the source of
-great joy to ourselves and our mules and horses. Our
-pastime was like the boy’s holiday whose mother allowed
-him to stay at home from school to saw wood and bring
-water. Our resting spell was a spell of hard work, and
-most industriously did we labor in cleansing our arms
-for inspection by the Colonel. And we had to do a deal
-of marching and countermarching. Indeed the parade
-lasted so long and with so many manœuvres were we exercised,
-that the patience of officers and men was worn
-to its extremity. It was nearly thread-bare. And then
-came the orders for every man to see to his own provisions
-and water, as another desert was to be traversed.
-So we go—changing from bad to worse. To-day, after
-a march of ten miles, we reached the “Point of Rocks”—a
-significant name. Late at night we encamped in a
-valley between high mountains, where there was some
-grass, but no water.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span><i>2nd.</i>—We still moved on over barren rocks and sand
-hills. We labored hard all day to leave them behind us.
-The hope cheered us of soon finding water, we realised
-it at the far-famed Red River. Our whole force encamped
-on its banks about night-fall. The waters of this distinguished
-river are brackish, but refreshing. Incrustations
-of salt are formed upon the rocks lying above its surface.
-This river was named Rio Colorado by the early Santa
-Fe traders; who, without having followed it down to any
-considerable distance, believed it to be the head waters
-of the great river of this name, which flows into the Mississippi
-below Natchez. It has, however, since been followed
-down to its junction with the Arkansas, and found
-to be the Canadian fork of that river. We were now
-within 140 miles of Santa Fe, having marched more than
-600 miles over a country destitute of timber, with but little
-water, and occupied only by roving bands of Indians
-who subsist wholly upon buffalo meat. We saw immense
-herds of that animal on the Arkansas and its tributaries.
-The whole country presents, thus far, the most
-gloomy and fearful appearances to the weary traveller.
-But rough and uninviting as it is, all who visit New
-Mexico via Santa Fe, are compelled to pass it.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—We have journeyed well to-day, having reached
-St. Clair Springs. It is a beautiful spot, well watered—and
-glowing in delightful verdure. It is surrounded by
-mountains, the surface of which are covered with craggy
-rocks. We searched for miles around our camp for
-wood, with little success. The different companies
-killed a number of antelopes here.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 4th.</i>—We are still encamped, and shall remain
-in our position till the morning of the 5th. I took
-a walk, to “wagon mound,” so called from the shape of
-its top, being like a covered wagon when seen in the distance.
-This mountain top is surrounded by a cliff of
-craggy rocks at least 100 feet in height. A most beautiful
-view is presented to the beholder. To the south
-you see hills covered with cedar and pine, situated in the
-immense prairie; to the north and north-west, are seen
-mountains with rocks piled upon rocks, with here and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>
-there groves of evergreens; far away to the east, is the
-desert, over which we had just passed. The sides of
-this mountain are covered with a hard kind of sand, and
-pumice stone, having the appearance of cinder. Whilst
-I am writing, being situated as far up as it is prudent
-to go, an adventurous fellow by the name of George
-Walton, has gained the wagon top, two others have also
-ascended, an achievement that few can perform. North
-of us there is a salt lake which we intend to visit this
-evening.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday Afternoon.</i>—Lieut. Smith and myself took a
-stroll to the lake. We found a thick crust of salt around
-its edge, which is several miles in circumference. We
-returned to camp by a mountain path, very difficult to
-travel.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—Eighteen miles were passed over to-day, through
-a mountainous country. We had just erected our tents
-and prepared for rest, when an evidence that we were approaching
-some civilized country, arrived in the shape of
-a Frenchman, who met us here with a travelling grocery.
-This concern came from Moras—a barrel of whiskey
-was strapped on the back of a poor mule—which stuff,
-some of our soldiers were foolish enough to drink: it
-sells at $1 per pint. Such dear drinking ought to make
-drunkards scarce.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—Saw a mud cottage on the road side to-day.
-The sight was most pleasant to our eyes, accustomed as
-they were for forty-four days to a wild waste. As we
-rode up, every one must have a look into the house. It
-was inhabited by a native of North Carolina, whose wife
-is a Spanish woman. After being somewhat gratified
-with the sight of a house, though built of mud with its
-flat roof, we went on 18 miles, and encamped at a town
-called Rio Gallenas Bagoes. On visiting this place we
-were struck with the singular appearance of the town
-and its inhabitants. The town consists of mud huts containing
-apartments built on the ground. The men were
-engaged in pounding cornstalks from which sugar is
-made; the women with faces tattooed and painted red,
-were making tortillas. We ate some, and found them
-excellent.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span><i>7th.</i>—The wagons which contained our provisions
-coming in sight, we prepared the wood, which we obtained
-with difficulty, for boiling the coffee, &amp;c., when
-Col. Mitchell rode up and told us the wind was too high
-to encamp. And hungry as we were, we went ahead
-17 miles through a forest of pine to Ledo Barnell, where
-we encamped for the night. A grisly bear was killed to-day
-by some members of the Randolph Company.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—We passed the large village of San Miguel to-day.
-Col. Mitchell and his interpreter went forward in
-search of a good place to encamp. The weather was
-dry and pleasant, with a suitable temperature for travelling.
-The most disagreeable annoyance is the sand,
-which is very unpleasant when the wind is high.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—Col. Mitchell had chosen a spot for our encampment,
-about 12 miles from our last resting place,
-near the foot of a mountain. There was no water to be
-found. Impelled by necessity we followed an Indian
-trail over the mountain 5 miles, and after riding through
-the thick pines for several hours we found the coveted
-treasure. As may be supposed we drank most heartily,
-after which we filled our canteens and returned to camp
-about 12 o’clock at night. We learned that Santa Fe
-was about 25 miles off.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—We arrived at the mountain pass at 10 o’clock,
-and reached Santa Fe about 3 o’clock in the afternoon.
-The glorious stars and stripes floating over the city was
-the first object that greeted our sight. We formed and
-marched into the town in order. We were received with
-martial music and several rounds of blank cartridges were
-fired as a welcome to us. We paraded in the square
-fronting the Governor’s house. After parade I took a
-walk through the town. The wagons did not arrive with
-our tents in time for us to encamp, and with our blankets
-around us, we laid down to rest. The blue sky was our
-canopy.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 11th.</i>—It was so cold and disagreeable last
-night that I found it impossible to sleep. I shivered
-through the night on the hard soil, and rose this morning
-with a severe headache. I walked about to keep myself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>
-warm. After eating three small crackers for breakfast,
-I went to church in company with several others, to
-hear a Catholic priest. The music was prettily performed
-on various instruments. An old man in the meantime
-turning round before an image, and after he had
-bowed to the people several times the music ceased. All
-was over—and we returned to camp. I felt sick and sad,
-for the worship did not refresh my spirits. This evening
-I was pall-bearer to a member of the Benton Company,
-who died in the hospital soon after his arrival.
-We carried him out about a mile from the city to his
-final resting place. Four others were buried to-day, who
-died from fatigue and exhaustion. They belonged to
-the different companies. The muffled roll of the drum,
-and the firing of the farewell to the dead, did not have a
-tendency to cheer me.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—This morning the roll was called, and various
-duties assigned the soldiers. Some had to work on the
-Fort, and others to cut and haul wood. In the latter
-employment I had to become teacher to some green hands.
-I found the task very troublesome—but performed it to
-the best of my ability. In the evening I wrote letters to
-my friends in Maryland.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—The two past days have been employed in preparations
-for our departure from Santa Fe. We have
-encountered much trouble and perplexity in getting teams,
-&amp;c., have to travel 80 miles up the mountains where we
-shall take up our winter quarters. We went out 6 miles
-and encamped. Having a severe headache, I tried my
-best to get some rest at night, but I had scarcely fallen
-asleep, when I was awakened by the officer to stand guard.
-I arose mechanically, feeling pretty much as I should suppose
-a fellow might feel who was on his way to execution.
-Taking up my gun I went to a large fire, where I sat quietly
-for two hours, watching my feelings more than I did
-the camp, for I was very unwell.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—The breaking down of some wagons detained us
-here till late. After starting we met a number of Spaniards,
-mounted on mules. We passed some little patches
-of corn badly cultivated, which they dignify with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>
-name of farms. A messmate wishing some red pepper,
-I called with him at a house, but it was all “<i>no comprenda</i>”—“<i>dont
-understand you</i>,” so we got no red pepper.
-We went on to the next habitation through a broken
-country; here we found our third Lieutenant with the
-interpreter arranging for our camp. As we had to wait
-for the other companies to come up, I rested on some
-corn shucks, and very pleasantly did the bed feel. It was
-a bed of down in comparison with that to which I had
-been accustomed. I had slept on the ground for more
-than three months. Nothing grows spontaneously in
-this country but the Spanish broom.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—Colds, and other complaints, are becoming
-common in our ranks. After the fatigue of marching on
-foot heavily armed, we were illy calculated to do the
-duties of the camp. Our horses being too much enfeebled
-for further use, after our arrival at Santa Fe, were
-sent up the mountain to recruit. Thus our hardships
-increase with our progress. The ground being very broken
-where we encamped to-night, which is in a wheat
-field, I gathered all the stubble I could, to make our beds
-soft and even—bought some wood to cook with from
-the natives.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—I started alone, and tried to overtake two messmates
-who had gone on before me. I had not proceeded
-more than 6 miles when I found my two young gentlemen
-playing cards on the road side. I passed them,
-and came to a village where I saw a considerable number
-of Spaniards. An old woman invited me in her house
-and set before me some tortillas and cornstalk-molasses
-which were quite a treat. I remained there several hours,
-but thinking I had missed my way I was about to take
-leave, with many thanks for their hospitality, when, to
-my great surprise and embarrassment, the old lady and
-her daughter most affectionately embraced me. I suppose
-it was the custom among these simple hearted
-mountaineers, but of which I was quite ignorant. I was
-thankful for the meal my hostesses had provided for me,
-but the hugging was a luxury I did not anticipate, nor
-was I the least ambitious of having it repeated. I found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>
-my company without much difficulty. We went on and
-crossed the Rio Grande. In the first stream I got my
-feet wet; the second was too deep for wading, and I was
-kindly invited by our Sergeant to mount behind him.
-We encamped there, having travelled 12 miles that day.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—We were surrounded by the natives, who appeared
-friendly. When we came to the place where our
-horses were feeding, we learned from the soldiers in
-charge, that some of them had died, and that several had
-been stolen or had strayed away—mine, of course, was
-among the missing. While the others were preparing to
-mount, I shouldered my musket and walked on, in sand
-half a foot deep. The walk was exceedingly tiresome.
-I saw large quantities of wild geese on the Rio Grande.
-After marching 8 miles we encamped.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—All on horseback this morning in fine style,
-except myself and a few others equally unfortunate.
-We made the best use of our scrapers through the sand.
-After walking awhile we came to a house on the road
-side, the inhabitants of which, men, women and children
-came rushing out. We were at a loss to know what
-it meant, till we saw them surround a colored man, (our
-Surgeon’s cook,) who proved a novel sight to them.
-The poor fellow was quite mortified at being made a
-show of on account of his color. We went on 8 miles
-and encamped among the Utah Indians. They are at
-war with the Navihoes, who have hunted them nearly
-down. After supper I asked permission of our Captain
-to accompany Mr. White, and several others to their encampment.
-Here, around a large fire sat an Indian chief
-with his squaws. After being introduced by our interpreter,
-a council was called. After some jabbering, a
-regular war-dance commenced. Their best warriors,
-equipped in full costume, and painted most hideously in
-twenty different ways—danced furiously around a large
-fire, to the music of kettles and drums. It was a horrid
-din, in which mingled the war-whoop. We gazed with
-astonishment till its conclusion, when an old chief made
-a long speech. We then returned to our camp to meditate
-upon what we had seen and heard, and to wonder at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>
-the strangeness of character and habit exhibited by those
-poor creatures.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—We were surrounded by the Indians before our
-breakfast was over. They came on to Abique, and encamped
-near us. There are several villages in this place.
-We arrived about two o’clock, and took up our quarters.
-The companies under Major Gilpin which were stationed
-there, and which we had been sent to relieve, were greatly
-worn and reduced with their long stay among the
-mountains. There was another dance at night in the
-Indian camp—being much tormented with sandburs, I
-did not go out. We had to eat our provisions half
-cooked, from the scarcity of wood. I and a messmate
-were forced to “hook” two small poles from a fodder
-crib, and when we returned to camp we found the companies
-on parade, and the Captain telling them the order
-of the next day.</p>
-
-<p><i>22d.</i>—The whole command, viz. two companies from
-Col. Price’s Regiment, consisting of about one hundred
-and eighty men, were obliged to remove to-day four miles
-further up the river, in order to obtain grass and fuel.
-This place being entirely destitute of either. At night,
-I went with our interpreter and third Lieutenant to several
-houses, to buy mutton. While on our errand we
-met with some ladies; one of them had a dough face;
-all the rest were smeared with red, and to my fancy,
-not at all beautiful. We returned to camp without our
-mutton, and not a little disappointed.</p>
-
-<p><i>23d.</i>—The country here is bare and sterile to a great
-degree, but there is an improvement with regard to fuel,
-which is so necessary at this season, in this mountainous
-country. I believe we are stationary at last. I was
-kept busy all day writing letters for the soldiers, many
-of whom very gladly do my washing and mending in
-return, for this slight service. I had rather at any time
-write than cook and wash and mend clothes.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—I felt sick to-day. I took cold from a severe
-drenching, while on duty as a sentinel last night. A
-heavy cold rain was falling the whole time. I strove to
-assist in making our camp as comfortable as possible,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>
-and in the evening despatched two letters to Santa Fe,
-for my beloved friends in Maryland.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 25th.</i>—At day-break this morning, a number
-of Mexicans came to camp; jabbering to themselves in
-a great rage about something. At first we could not
-ascertain the cause of their trouble, there being no interpreter
-present, and none of the soldiers knowing enough
-of the Spanish language to comprehend their meaning;
-soon, however, it was discovered that about sundown
-last evening, the Captain of our company had caused
-the embankment of their mill and irrigating pond, to be
-broken, a short distance above camp on the bank of the
-river, so as to prevent it from overflowing the bed of
-his tent. The water of course rushed out with great
-force, tearing the embankment down and washing the
-earth away for a considerable distance, stopping their
-mill and leaving many families destitute of water; all of
-which serious injuries, the Captain seemed disinclined to
-repair. This behavior of the Captain met with but little
-favor from his men. To their honor be it spoken.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—This morning our Lieutenant went round the
-camp to get volunteers to repair the broken ditch. All
-seemed unwilling to do any thing—some had their
-horses to find, others to cut and haul wood. The men
-had no idea of laboring gratuitously for the repair of a
-deed wantonly done by their Captain. I with several
-others walked four miles up the river, with our axes, for
-the purpose of getting wood. We crossed the river several
-times in the wildest and most out-of-the-way places,
-between high cragged mountains which it was impossible
-to ascend. We returned to camp with our wagon
-loaded, though we encountered great difficulty in accomplishing
-it. We found there was a disagreeable misunderstanding
-among the officers respecting the embankment.
-The Captain wished soldiers detailed for its
-repair, and the Lieutenants thinking it an imposition on
-the poor fellows to stand in the mud to work such cold
-weather, without compensation.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—We are now living in the midst of the greatest
-abundance of life’s luxuries. As an evidence of our high<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>
-living, I will transcribe our bill of fare for the week. It
-is as follows:</p>
-
-<p>Monday.—Bread, beef, (tough as leather,) bean soup.</p>
-
-<p>Tuesday.—Tough beef, bread, and bean soup.</p>
-
-<p>Wednesday.—Bean soup, bread, and tough beef—and
-so on to the end of the week.</p>
-
-<p>The greatest <i>harmony</i> prevails in camp, especially
-among the officers, the Captain and first Lieutenant are
-the greatest <i>friends</i> imaginable, they do every thing in
-their power for the good of the company. They are the
-<i>bravest</i> and most <i>patriotic</i> officers in the regiment.
-In this lovely and fertile valley, encamped on the banks
-of the Rio Charma, we are enjoying all the <i>blessings</i>
-of life. We are charmed by the surpassing beauty of
-the polished Spanish ladies, and living in so much <i>harmony</i>
-with each other that we almost imagine the “garden
-of Eden” to have been again raised for our enjoyment; and
-then, Oh! heavens, what a luxury, amid these joys, to
-feel the delightful sensations produced by the gentle and
-graceful movements of a Spanish <i>louse</i> as he journeys over
-one’s body! The very thought of it makes me poetic, and I
-cannot resist the temptation of dedicating a line to the
-memory of moments so exquisite. How appropriate are
-the words of Moore to such occasions of bliss?</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-<div class="stanza">
-<div class="verse">Oft in the stilly night,</div>
-<div class="indent">Ere slumber’s chains have bound me,</div>
-<div class="verse">I feel the cursed creatures bite,</div>
-<div class="indent">As scores are crawling round me.</div>
-</div>
-<div class="stanza">
-<div class="verse">O not like one who treads alone,</div>
-<div class="indent">The banquet halls deserted;—</div>
-<div class="verse">In crowds they crawl despite the groan</div>
-<div class="indent">Of him whose blood they started.</div>
-</div></div></div>
-
-<p>When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I
-found the above had been written by some wag, in my
-absence. He was disposed to ridicule my description of
-the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather
-mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather waggish
-myself when I made the boast of our possessing Eden-like
-pleasures. The continuation of my narrative pleased<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>
-me so well that I consented to let it remain as it was
-written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of expression
-is the most innocent way in which we can relieve
-ourselves, for we privates are suffering many privations
-while some of our officers refuse to speak to each other.
-I am glad, however, that our troubles are so merrily
-turned into ridicule, the best way sometimes to treat
-them. We are not destitute of sport however—many
-amusing scenes occur among us, debating societies are
-formed among the soldiers in which the most absurd
-questions are dilated upon with a vehemence and mock
-seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee
-without sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions
-sliced up with parched corn, made a better meal for us
-to-day than we have had for some days past. Yesterday
-I traded off <i>two needles</i> to the Spanish girls for six ears of
-corn and some onions, it was a trade decidedly profitable
-for both parties. In company with our first Lieutenant,
-his brother, William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a
-number of others, I went up on a high peak of the Rocky
-Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes
-when it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire,
-and amused ourselves by listening to the reverberations
-of sound produced by our Lieutenant’s revolver, who
-fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and
-found water in the crevice of the rock close to the edge
-of the precipice. It was too far below the surface for us
-to drink by stooping over, and William White proposed
-to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water, reminding
-me of one of Æsop’s fables. We followed his advice
-and the water was soon forced to rise high enough for
-our purpose. The snow increasing, we came down and
-made another fire in a large hollow of the rock, where
-all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement
-that I did not relish, and I sought my gratification in
-loosing the rocks and rolling them down the side of the
-mountain, which is at least a thousand feet above the
-level of our camp.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our
-guns and proceeded down the river several miles in search<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>
-of game. We fired at several flocks of wild geese and
-ducks, but it only scared them further off. We passed
-several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached
-the camp we found the soldiers at different employments,
-some playing cards, and others making articles to sell to
-the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was engaged in the manufacture
-of a <i>grindstone</i> to trade to the Spaniards for corn
-and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables
-they grow.</p>
-
-<p><i>30th.</i>—The mountains are covered with snow, and,
-after raining hard all night, this morning it is clear and
-cold. We made the best preparations we could to send
-the wagons back to Santa Fe for provisions, as late last
-night, our second Lieutenant returned, after an absence
-of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our
-winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to
-be very little likelihood of our going south at all. The
-officers went in search of other quarters to-day.</p>
-
-<p><i>31st.</i>—We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which
-improved into a snow-storm before morning. I slept
-very uncomfortably, as a high wind from the north had
-full sweep in the door of our tent. We were inspected
-at 11 o’clock, and carried through all the evolutions of
-the drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm,
-though wrapped in our blankets, and crowded around the
-fire. Yesterday one of our beef cattle died from starvation.
-The Mexicans came down and took it off to their
-habitations. We might have made a speculation by selling
-it but did not think of it.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, November 1st.</i>—Several of my mess are
-going up the mountains to look for their horses. I offered
-a friend $5 (should I ever again possess that sum)
-to search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to
-some of the boys, while others sat apart, or pitched quoits.
-At night a Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and
-played a number of tunes which so exhilarated my poor
-half frozen companions that they united in a dance which
-they kept up till a late hour.</p>
-
-<p><i>2nd.</i>—Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little
-native mills on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>
-and some coffee without sugar, now comprise our only
-sustenance. Between meals, however, we parch some
-corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in
-exchange for buttons, needles, or any little matter we can
-spare. At 9 o’clock, we struck our tents, and marched
-down the river two miles to a deserted Spanish house
-nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were murdered by the
-Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to
-take up our winter quarters. I can scarcely describe
-this wretched den. The soldiers have looked in and
-they have become very dissatisfied. They were told by
-the Captain to erect their tents inside the wall. All the
-houses in this region having that protection. We could
-not sleep in the house on account of the offensive odor.
-The tent was much more comfortable.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee
-was over, some of the men were appointed to scrape and
-clean the house. I with several others was sent to the
-mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking two
-miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not
-grow here more than half the usual size. On the return,
-I thought I would take a near cut to our camp alone. I
-turned into a foot-path, which led me to the top of a high
-mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a long
-distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at
-camp, where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary
-of Spanish words. They have become very erudite of
-late.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—All this day we did nothing but write down
-words from the language spoken by the people, who,
-from their complexion, appear to be a mixture of the
-Spanish and Indian races. We made a pretty good
-dictionary among us.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard.
-At 4 o’clock, our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned
-from Santa Fe. He brought bad news. He could get
-no provisions, except one-fourth rations of flour, and one
-and a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding
-all this, our boys are still very lively.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel
-sufficient for our present purpose, and the prospect of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>
-long and severe winter before us makes our situation
-rather unenviable.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a
-little bread, (i. e. two pints for six men,) some fried
-beef, and coffee without sugar.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 8th.</i>—Although the morning was cloudy and
-cold, I walked with twenty others down to Abique to
-church. On arriving we went into the priest’s room.
-He very politely invited us to be seated, and then commenced
-asking all kinds of questions about the United
-States. He seemed to take great interest in teaching us
-the Spanish language. He made us repeat after him,
-many long and hard words. We sat two hours with him
-and then went in church, where a large congregation
-was assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his
-appearance, dressed in gold lace, and ascended the pulpit,
-while all present fell on their knees. The music of
-various instruments now commenced, the priest the
-meanwhile, drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people
-remained on their knees till the music ceased, when
-all retired.</p>
-
-<p>It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would
-take place in the evening. Some of us went in to inquire
-of the priest, who informed us that the fandango
-was to be at a village some miles further off. In a little
-while, a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After
-walking a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish
-fellow, very quietly sat down to pull off his shoes, and
-told all who were in favor of wading the stream to follow
-his example. Eight of the boys immediately commenced
-stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disappoint
-them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad
-cold, with some others, who felt no inclination to wet
-their feet, I returned to our quarters.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—All this day in the mountains cutting wood.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—I went with several others to search for lost
-horses. We had not gone far when to my great joy I
-found mine, which had not been seen since we left Santa
-Fe. We heard volleys of musketry in the direction of
-our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>
-till on our return, we learned that a dog had been buried
-with the honors of war. This poor dog had been a great
-favorite with our Captain and all the company; he was
-most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night. The
-man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on
-extra duty as a punishment, the Captain being much
-exasperated. This evening I, with four others took
-rations for five days, in order to drive the horses down
-the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish
-village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a
-fandango was to come off, and the ladies of the place
-were preparing for the dance. They were nicely equipped
-in their best finery, and the soldiers were engaged to
-accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending
-the fandango, I preferred to remain and try to get
-some rest, of which I was very much in need. The
-party was soon prepared, and off they started, leaving
-me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their
-comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee,
-fried the beef, made the bread, and having all things in
-readiness, I drank a cup of coffee and laid down to rest
-on a mattress placed on the floor. As far as the thing I
-laid on was concerned, I was comfortable enough; the
-mattress was a luxury; but I could not sleep; the reasons
-were various. I was lying in a house, when I was
-accustomed to dwell in tents;—my quarters were divided
-between myself several donkies and mules and two
-small children—the odor of the donkies was not the
-most agreeable, nor their noise very harmonious; the
-children knew their mother was out and did their best at
-crying. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I
-hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left
-for the lulling of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers.</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—Our soldiers did not return from the fandango
-till 3 o’clock this morning, and I was appointed to get
-breakfast while they slept. I had considerable trouble
-in accomplishing this service, as the girls crowded
-around the fire, and I had frequently to pass the frying
-pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting
-near me. In company with a young Spaniard, who was
-exceedingly agreeable and polite, I went out after breakfast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>
-to kill wild geese. We walked a long distance, and
-returned unsuccessful.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—I find the family residing here, very agreeable.
-I was invited, and almost forced to accompany them to
-a fandango last night (for they do little else but dance.)
-All on horseback, the married men mounted behind their
-wives, we started. A little baby in its mother’s arms
-becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he
-was a married man, most gallantly rode up, and offered
-to carry the little creature. The mother thankfully resigned
-it to his charge. There was more pleasure in the
-idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care of
-a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man
-invited us to partake of his hospitality;—an invitation
-we gladly accepted. We went in accordingly, and after
-all were seated on the floor in the posture of a tailor, a
-large earthen vessel was placed before us containing pepper
-sauce and soup; and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made
-of corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused
-my mouth to burn to a blister. The people are very
-fond of condiments, and become so accustomed to them
-that what will burn a stranger’s mouth has no effect upon
-theirs. After all was over, we went across the street
-to attend the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge
-it was high in favor with all classes of the community.
-Some of the performers were dressed in the most
-fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The
-ladies and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity
-quite painful to behold, and the music pealed in deafening
-sounds. I took my seat near a pretty girl, and
-every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did
-pretty often, her beau would shake his head in token of
-his displeasure, and showing his jealous disposition. I left
-the place about 10 o’clock, and returned to our quarters.</p>
-
-<p><i>13th.</i>—We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish
-ruins. The Captain and officers were glad to see us,
-especially as we had good news in relation to the horses.
-We had them in charge, and exhibited them to our comrades
-as the trophies of our success. On our return, we
-killed two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>
-a great help to our stock of provisions which was then
-very low.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day,
-while our boys were attending to the horses. My Spanish
-friends are very courteous, but there is little to relieve
-the monotony of our intercourse, as from my ignorance
-of the language I am unable to converse with them.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—This morning we had one of our wild geese
-stewed for breakfast, which we had without coffee, and
-almost without bread. After breakfast I started to camp
-to draw provisions of some kind. When at camp I concluded
-to remain there.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—I was told by the Sergeant to-day, that there
-was no flour to issue. He referred me to the Captain,
-who directed young Bales and myself to a mill some
-distance off, where we procured 60<i>lbs.</i> of unsifted Taos
-flour very coarsely prepared. With this, we returned,
-and in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated
-to the use of the half-starved soldiers. A very small
-portion of this brown flour fell to our share. This
-evening we are without food, or nearly so. Martin
-Glaze, an old veteran, who has seen service, and belongs
-to my mess, got a few ears of corn and parched it in a
-pan, with a small piece of pork to make it greasy. When
-it was done, we all sat around the fire and ate our supper
-of parched corn greased with fat pork. The weather
-to-night is extremely cold.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—Awoke early this morning and found it snowing
-very hard. At 10 o’clock I went to our first Lieutenant’s
-quarters. He was engaged in appraising some
-cattle which are pressed into our service, and for which
-the natives were to be paid. A bull has just been killed,
-and the offals are being greedily devoured by our poor
-fellows. At 11 o’clock to-day our third Corporal died,
-having been sick with camp fever and inflammation of
-the brain several weeks. At 3 o’clock his grave was
-dug and the poor fellow was wrapped in his blanket—and
-buried without a coffin. To-night there are several
-of our men sick with the measles, supposed by our Surgeon
-to have been brought from Santa Fe.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span><i>18th.</i>—The snow four inches deep—clear and very
-cold—another grave dug to-day for a member of the Livingston
-company, making five who have died since we
-have been out here. They are all buried near the mountain,
-where poor Johnson was laid.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—The past two days have been employed in
-procuring wood, which is hard labor; but we do not
-complain as our fare is improved by the addition of bean
-soup and coffee.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—A court martial was held this morning to try
-our fourth Sergeant, who has said something derogatory
-to the character of our Orderly. After the court adjourned,
-we were ordered to form a line. Our first
-Lieutenant then stood in front and read the proceedings
-of the court. The decision was that our fourth Sergeant
-be reduced to the ranks, for slander. It was ordered
-that if any man, or men should thereafter bring false
-charges against the officers, he or they, should be sent
-with a file of soldiers to Santa Fe, and tried at head quarters,
-&amp;c. The company was then dismissed. Several
-of my mess concluded to run as candidates for the vacant
-place. They went among the crowd with tobacco and
-parched corn, electioneering. I was placed on guard at
-9, and had to stand till 11 o’clock.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 22d.</i>—A gloomy Sabbath morning—I felt
-badly, but concluded to go to church at Abique. As
-soon as the ceremonies were ended I went in the priest’s
-room in company with my old friend Capt. Markle and
-several officers. After sitting awhile, a servant brought
-in a dish of refreshments, consisting of pies and wine.
-Placing the glass to my lips I discovered it to be <i>Taos
-whiskey</i>, as strong as alcohol. A piece of the pie, I
-thought might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowded
-my mouth full, and found—alas! it was composed of
-onions, a dreadful fix indeed, for a hungry man, Taos
-whiskey and onion pie!—the very thought of the mess
-makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp I
-found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards.
-Elias Barber, a messmate, was taken sick with the
-measles. The disease, is now raging among the troops.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span><i>23d.</i>—We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day.
-We had to travel far up the mountain for it, and it is
-exceedingly difficult to cook with it out of doors in the
-deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the bread, and I
-had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together.
-I felt more than usual fatigue after the parade.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He spent a
-wretched night last night in a thin cotton tent. The
-wind is blowing on him constantly, while the measles
-are out very thick. I went to the Captain this morning
-and informed him of the situation of the young man.
-He told me if I could procure a place in the house, he
-might be brought in. I therefore went and after making
-preparations to move him, I was told that no such thing
-should be done. I then tried to get an extra tent to
-place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was
-denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, exposed
-to all the inclemency of this cold climate. And
-last night it was so cold that the water became frozen in
-our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested, but it is
-all to no purpose—nothing further is done for the comfort
-of the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the
-tender mercies of such men!</p>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered
-much from a severe attack of diarrhœa. Our lodgings
-are very uncomfortable. I went down to the Rio Grande
-to get water, and found it nearly frozen over. A great
-mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from
-exposure and disease.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—I was very much engaged all day, in nursing
-poor Barber. He is worse to-day, the measles having
-disappeared from the surface. I sat by him the livelong
-night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I felt sad
-to think I had no means of relief. At 4 o’clock this
-morning the Captain came, and finding him so ill,
-brought out a tent to cover the one he laid in.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—Last night, my messmate Philips returned from
-Santa Fe, with a message from Col. Price to the different
-Captains, to send on ten men from each company,
-as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was about to start for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>
-Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a
-communication with General Wool. To-day an express
-arrived from Col. Mitchell for the same purpose. We
-were hastily paraded to ascertain how many would
-volunteer to go, when I, with five others of my company,
-stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled.
-We were satisfied that we could not render our situation
-worse, and hoped any change might be for the better.
-We hastened to the grazing ground, over the mountain,
-for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was
-gone of course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a
-young man for a horse which belonged to a deceased
-soldier.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—A full company having been made up, this
-morning we gathered at our quarters, and were ready at
-8 o’clock to take leave of our kind hearted comrades.
-They bid us “good-bye,” with many expressions of
-regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our
-journey 35 miles, and put up late in the evening at the
-house of a rich Spaniard, who accommodated us with an
-empty room twenty feet square, but it had so small a fireplace
-that we could not use it for our culinary purposes, so
-we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air.
-It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded
-forty pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty-six
-good sized cakes, while two others prepared our
-camp kettles of coffee, &amp;c.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 29th.</i>—At 4 o’clock we ate our breakfast,
-and were on the road by day-light. We travelled all day
-without stopping, and arrived at Santa Fe at 6 o’clock
-in the evening. We went immediately to the American
-Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men
-sat down to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a
-privilege for nearly four months. All were hungry, and
-it was amusing to see how we tried to eat our landlord
-out of house and home. After supper we retired to our
-quarters in a very small room.</p>
-
-<p><i>30th.</i>—Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morning
-for us to parade before the Governor’s house for inspection.
-Our horses were also examined, and all being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span>
-found in good order for the trip, we were dismissed and
-conducted to our quarters, in the court house; where we
-drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American
-flour, with pork enough to last five days.</p>
-
-<p><i>December 1st.</i>—Paraded again soon after breakfast, and
-were told by our Captain, that previously to our departure,
-we must all march to the sutler’s store, and acknowledge
-our indebtedness to him, so up we rode in right order
-and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and
-I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few
-articles of clothing on my route, being forced to do so
-from necessity. I was therefore not surprised at the
-amount, especially when I read the prices of some the
-articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief $1—suspenders
-$1—flannel shirt $3—tin coffee pot $1 50, &amp;c. &amp;c.
-Here we bade farewell to our Captains, who had accompanied
-us to Santa Fe to see us off. Captain Williams
-shook me cordially by the hand, saying, he had no expectation
-of seeing me again in this world. Captain
-Hudson now took charge, and rode with us two miles
-out of town—here he informed us, we had a dangerous
-road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieutenant
-Todd for two days, till we were joined by Col.
-Mitchell and himself. He returned to town, and we
-came on four miles and stopped at a house, whose master
-sold us forage for our horses and wood, it being severely
-cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the
-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>2d.</i>—We marched 25 miles to a place called San
-Domingo, and took quarters in a deserted house. This
-is a considerable place, with a handsome church, which
-was being illuminated when we arrived. In a little time
-the bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry
-and considerable commotion at the door of the church.
-Several of our soldiers were induced to go up and inquire
-into the meaning of the uproar. We were told that a
-converted Indian chief had just died, and all this was to
-prevent him from going down to purgatory. The roll of
-the drum and firing continued a long time, when the ceremonies
-commenced in the church, from the door of which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>
-we saw many large wax candles burning, but not being
-permitted to enter we very quietly retired.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—After travelling six miles we came to an Indian
-village called San Felippe, and two miles further down
-the Rio Grande we encamped in the midst of a good
-pasture for our horses. After supper, our Lieutenant
-told me I was honored with the appointment of Captain
-of the watch. In consequence of this distinction, I had
-to be up nearly all night. It was very cold. We were
-now comparatively happy, for we had plenty of good
-flour from the States, with coffee, sugar, &amp;c.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here
-till Col. Mitchell comes up with the other company, so
-we seize the opportunity to have our horses shod. Two
-blacksmiths are now at work; I have just bought a set
-of shoes and nails from our sutler for $3.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face
-of the country presents nothing inviting at this season of
-the year. Every thing has a desolate and wintry appearance.
-There being no food for our horses, we chopped
-down some limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat.
-We then went to a Mexican village to buy corn. Having
-no money, I took some tobacco and buttons to trade
-for the corn. While here, I sold my greasy blanket for
-a Navihoe one, with a meal for my horse in the bargain.
-The man with whom I traded was very kind; he set before
-me some corn, mush and sausages, but being seasoned
-with onions, I declined eating. He then brought in
-some corn stalk molasses, which I mixed with water and
-drank, thanking him for his hospitality. I returned to
-camp, when I found that Col. Mitchell, and the baggage
-wagons had arrived. I was officer of the guard to-night,
-and up till 12 o’clock.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 6th.</i>—Formed in line by our Colonel in the
-midst of a heavy shower of rain, and marched down the
-Rio Grande, a long distance. Our course is due south,
-keeping the river constantly on our right, and ranges of
-mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages,
-and at night encamped near one.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast,
-I found the snow four inches deep, and still snowing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>
-very fast. Marched in right order 15 miles, and after
-passing several towns situated on the banks of the river,
-we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk.
-Here are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars;
-near whose quarters we encamped in a large room 100
-feet by 40. In this place we found a number of soldiers,
-some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and
-others amusing themselves in various ways.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—The country through which we passed to-day
-is thickly dotted over with towns and villages, whose
-names I cannot remember, but the road is dismal enough,
-being still among the mountains, where every object the
-eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very
-intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls
-of a town. We had six small ears of corn for our
-horses, and no fodder. I went to the Quarter Master
-and was informed by him that the Mexicans had refused
-to sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform
-jacket, and with them tried to purchase food for my
-horse, but I was refused every where. I sat down and
-made out a requisition, and with several others went to
-their large stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and
-threw down a large turn for each. We succeeded in
-coming off with our booty, and in a few minutes, we
-were in bed. We were not disturbed in conscience in
-the least, being fully covered by the axiom, “necessity
-knows no law.”</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—We were called up this morning to lead our
-horses into ranks, when two guns and a sabre were missing.
-They had been taken from the tents by the
-Mexicans. After the line was formed, Col. Mitchell
-ordered the men who had lost their arms, to march out.
-He then told them they would be left behind to search
-the town, assisted by the alcalde, and if they should not
-find their arms they would have to return to Santa Fe.
-We then left; marched ten miles and encamped near a
-village. Our interpreter was sent to procure forage for
-the horses, but he returned with the news that none
-could be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to go up
-with a file of soldiers and <i>take</i> what was wanting. He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>
-formed a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched
-off with our Orderly at the head, and second Sergeant,
-with the bags to put the corn in. At the door of the
-house, we were ordered to halt. The lock was broken,
-and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down
-to the camp. In this adventure I made the acquaintance
-of a young man by the name of Hepbourn. He was
-born and raised in Prince George’s County, Md. After
-supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of
-cartridges. A strong guard was ordered out to-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—Having orders to march very early, we rose
-by light and proceeded down the river 18 miles, the
-country presenting very much the appearance already
-described. We saw a few vineyards, surrounded by
-walls. I felt miserably disordered from the cold and
-loss of rest. I was just about to sit down to supper,
-which I thought might revive me, when our Orderly
-came by, requesting the men to form in line immediately,
-as the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We
-stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail.
-When the reading was concluded, we returned to our
-tents. After supper, sixteen men were detailed on guard.
-I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours before
-day-light. It was extremely cold.</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—The roll was called at day-break, and after
-parade we continued our march 12 miles and encamped
-in a town among the mountains. Wood was very scarce,
-and the severity of the weather increasing.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted
-of mess pork and bread, half baked by a miserable
-fire. We went 12 miles to a place where there is a fine
-supply of wood. Our poor fellows had the satisfaction of
-having a good fire all night, and it was very necessary,
-for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind
-and snow.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 13th.</i>—At one o’clock this morning I awoke
-and found myself so cold that I arose and went to the
-guard-fire to thaw myself. I stood by the fire till day-light.
-The Captain in his round to visit the guard,
-stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>
-He is very clever and condescending. He remained an
-hour or two, and then woke up the Orderly to have all
-in readiness for a start. We came over the mountain
-four miles, where our road intersected the river again,
-passed a town, and further on encamped near the river.
-Our interpreter bought a beef from the natives, also a
-little wood to cook it. The wild geese are very numerous
-here.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—The roll was called very early this morning—and
-as my horse had a sore back, I asked the Captain’s
-permission to walk behind the wagons. I walked all
-this day and led my horse. When I came up to the encampment
-I found that my mess had supper ready. It
-consisted of a kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I
-relished the supper very much, but by way of desert I
-received information that I had to stand sentinel. I
-walked my post two hours and then went to bed; being
-too cold to sleep, I got up at two o’clock, and went to
-the guard-fire. The guard said he was very sleepy and
-would lie down if I would consent to serve while he
-slept. To this I readily agreed—and he laid down,
-while I made a large fire, which soon attracted the attention
-of the other sentinels, and several of them collected
-around it. We enjoyed each others conversation till the
-morning dawned.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had
-walked our post four hours over the time. I received the
-compliment, but did not tell him that we had sat by the
-fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with a pipe
-in his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to
-stay here till the 17th.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—Having secured some beef, I made a large fire
-to get an early breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master
-pressed a lot of seven very good cattle from the Mexicans.
-Last night a strong guard of twenty men was
-stationed around our camp. The weather is still raw
-and cold. We are yet among the mountains.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—This morning we reached the <i>second crossing</i>
-of the Rio Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing,
-we overtook Col. Doniphan’s command, and encamped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>
-near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I did
-not come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very
-angry at a circumstance which they related and made me
-write down, with a promise to publish it—which promise
-I now fulfil. While on the march to-day, the Captain
-ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been
-requested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come
-near their fire or tents, as it incommoded them greatly.
-He stated on his own behalf, as well as on behalf of the
-other officers, that it was quite a nuisance to have the
-privates lurking about their tents and fires. He said that
-something might be “hooked” and that the Lieutenant
-had already lost some saleratus, &amp;c. This was a poser.
-Our poor fellows could hardly endure it. Some of them
-were much exasperated. I tried to soothe them, and
-told them no other harm was meant than a slight intimation
-that we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge
-of their better fare might make us dissatisfied, &amp;c.
-All passed off better than I expected. We had to go a
-mile for water, and the thermometer at zero.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—The situation of our tents was by no means
-pleasant. There was much complaint about stones and
-hillocks, lying hard, &amp;c. Breakfast over, I started with
-the wagons, in company with some others, whose horses’
-backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss
-of rest, having walked my round five hours last night.
-We went on 12 miles, which we trudged on foot. At
-night we cut some branches of the cotton wood for our
-horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when our
-Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have
-to walk back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had
-to go through a gloomy region or desert, 85 miles in
-extent, where no wood or water could be procured. He
-advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to
-last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and
-baked eighteen cakes, while the balance was attended to
-by my mess.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—We were all busy providing against the perils
-of our difficult and dangerous march. We shall have
-to keep close company, as the Navihoe Indians roam this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>
-desert in bands. At 11 o’clock we moved off in fine
-order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At
-8 o’clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked
-up a few weeds, kindled a little fire, took a cold cut of
-bread and meat, and laid on the ground to rest, without
-erecting the tents. A young man having drank too much
-of the “ardiente,” very unluckily offended one of the
-officers, and was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel.
-He cut a variety of capers while this was being done.
-His friends soon set him at liberty.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—The news of a “spring in the desert” was
-brought by some scouts, who had started out on an exploring
-expedition. They found the spring in a place
-full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over a
-miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which
-turned out to be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched
-15 miles and encamped late at night. We took a slice
-of bread and meat and laid down to rest on our blankets.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—The appearance of our Captain very early this
-morning aroused us. He came with the intelligence
-that Major Gilpin had sent on an express last night for
-a reinforcement, as he was expecting an attack every
-moment from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on
-the march, and without stopping to take breakfast we
-travelled 35 miles. We encamped late at night 3 miles
-from the river, where men and beasts, thirsty and weary,
-were refreshed. I was afraid my horse would kill himself
-drinking. With six others, I pressed some oxen from the
-traders, whom we found encamped here, as the most of our
-team had given out and were left upon the road.</p>
-
-<p><i>22nd.</i>—Passed over 14 miles of broken wretched
-country to-day, the soil of which produces nothing but a
-kind of shrub called soap-weed. The inhabitants, it is
-said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We encamped
-in a rough place, among stones and hillocks.</p>
-
-<p><i>23rd.</i>—I trust the end of this “<i>jornada</i>,” as it is called,
-and which means the “region of death,” is nearly reached,
-for a march of 12 miles brought us to a village, where
-we halted to take in provisions bought by our Quarter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>
-Master. Proceeding two miles further we came up to
-Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large
-sandy plain. We had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Our
-flour was nearly gone, and we had a little beef soup and
-rice for supper at night. The boys being still hungry,
-we went to the village and procured some dried fruit
-and pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our
-camp kettles. Of this fare we partook heartily, and laid
-down to sleep in the sand.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—The first blast of the bugle this morning made
-us hurry into line. Some of the men being rather tardy,
-were too late, and they were told by the officer who inspected
-us, that any man who did not come into rank
-at the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard
-three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast,
-which consisted of a small piece of bread, made up with
-pumpkin. The weather is now quite pleasant, and the
-country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to improve
-in appearance.</p>
-
-<h3>BATTLE OF BRACITO.</h3>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—In the union of our forces we are one thousand
-strong. Moved as early as usual from the position we
-have occupied the last three days, and after marching 12
-miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped at 10 o’clock.
-We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out;
-went out to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of
-the men had gone at least a mile from camp when the
-alarm was given, “<i>to arms! to arms!</i>” Looking in the
-direction pointed out we saw a cloud of dust, as if the
-whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling
-to throw away our wood, we ran with our turns on our
-shoulders, when we heard an officer hallooing—“Throw
-away your wood and bring your horses into camp.”
-We obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found
-our Orderly at his post, directing the men to load
-their guns and get into line. Every man was at his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>
-proper place in a few minutes. By this time the Mexican
-army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at
-a distance of a mile from us. Presently an officer came
-out of their ranks, handsomely mounted and bearing a
-black flag. Col. Mitchell, accompanied with the interpreter,
-rode up to meet him on half way ground to inquire
-his business. He told them he had come to demand
-the surrender of our entire force, by submitting, he said,
-our lives would be spared—if we did not, every
-man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short
-his harangue by telling him to “go to h— and
-bring on his forces.” In the meantime our company
-(the Chihuahua Rangers) received orders from head quarters
-to right about face, and march from the right, where
-we were somewhat protected by brush, weeds and
-gopher hills, to the extreme left, in open ground to withstand
-the charge of the Mexican cavalry; so off we
-marched in double quick time to our position on the left.
-Our Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the
-enemy was in fair rifle distance, and added that he hoped
-no man in his command would act the coward, but all
-would do their duty as volunteers and American soldiers.
-He had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy commenced
-firing at us, from three to four hundred yards
-distant. They advanced closer, and continued to advance,
-pouring in volley after volley, till the sound of
-bullets over our heads reminded me of a hail storm.—We
-waited impatiently for the word of command. It
-was at length given, “fire.” One loud peal of thunder
-was heard from our Missouri rifles. Consternation and
-dismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion, the
-Mexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another
-volley, well aimed, caused them to <i>retreat</i> towards our
-wagons. Here they were met by a round from the
-wagon company. In the meantime Capt. Reid, at the
-head of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them,
-chasing them to the mountains. All their provisions,
-guns, sabres, camp furniture, &amp;c., besides one 10 pound
-howitzer, fell into our hands. The Mexican loss was
-estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>
-had but two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their
-dead on the field.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—With fifteen prisoners and a few wounded Mexicans,
-we resumed our march, the main army being flanked
-on both sides, and came on 16 miles and encamped in
-a desolate place filled with thorn bushes. Here we prepared
-our supper, and were about to sit down, when the
-report of a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish
-the fires, and form in line as quickly as possible.
-Presently our Lieutenant rode up and said it was a false
-alarm. We were ordered to break ranks and get our
-supper. Again we commenced that unfortunate meal,
-when the report of a second gun, so loud as to be heard
-by every one, again made us put the fires down. There
-was a tremendous clattering of arms, for all formed in
-line in a few seconds. At this moment Lieut. Cribbons
-rode up and said that in visiting one of the outer pickets,
-he was requested to give the countersign by the guard,
-whose gun was cocked, and he accidentally let the hammer
-down too heavily, causing it to explode, the load
-passing close to the Lieutenant’s face. After hearing this
-statement, we again broke ranks to resume our supper.
-I stood sentinel, to guard the wagons and piece of artillery
-taken from the enemy, till 12 o’clock, then went to
-bed—was awakened again at 3, and stood till 6 o’clock.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 27th.</i>—Col. Doniphan wishing an early start,
-the roll was called at light and we moved on in the same
-order as yesterday, with front and rear guard. We had
-scarcely travelled six miles, when at a distance over the
-river was seen a dust, as if a body of horsemen were
-meeting us. We were told to keep cool and obey orders.
-Continuing our course we met several Mexicans bearing
-a white flag. Their commander coming up, presented
-Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They then
-drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed
-our march, crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the
-town of El Paso del Norte about night-fall. This is the
-noted pass between Old and New Mexico. The town
-contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and
-is built along the margin of the river, several miles in length.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>
-The environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual
-varieties of fruit grow here in abundance. The river is
-compressed in many places to a very small compass, by
-the high and precipitous mountains, through which it
-winds its way.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—Established our quarters a mile from the city,
-where there is a large coral or enclosure, in which to
-keep our horses. Throughout the day a variety of fruit
-was brought to camp by the natives, and readily bought
-up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were
-nearly blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed
-with isinglass is very hurtful to the eyes.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the
-town, found two pieces of cannon, and after breaking
-several locks, a good deal of ammunition was discovered.
-We all paraded and were carried through the regular
-drill.</p>
-
-<p><i>January 1st, 1847.</i>—The last two days being quite
-cold, with high winds, we kept in camp. After the
-usual parade to-day, Lieutenant Todd went to town
-about 10 o’clock in company with several of our men,
-but they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing
-with all their might for us to get our horses quickly, and
-saddle up, for the Mexicans were coming on us. In a
-little while we were ready and marched over the river to
-join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When
-we arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Doniphan,
-who despatched Col. Mitchell with twelve men to
-reconnoitre the enemy, who were reported to be in sight.
-In the course of an hour, they returned and said it was a
-false alarm. We then marched to the public square, and
-informed by our Captain that arrangements were made
-to keep us in town, and that our camp equipage must
-be sent for. One out of each mess was directed to go with
-the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied
-with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite comfortable.</p>
-
-<p><i>2nd.</i>—Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The
-roll was called, and we paraded twice, morning and
-evening.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span><i>Sunday, 3rd.</i>—The usual duties being over, and a
-high wind prevailing, we did not go to church. Hearing
-that a sick horse was in the coral I went over to see,
-and found it was my mare. I brought her out to have
-her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance,
-and when I returned with a friend I found she had
-escaped; searched the town three hours without finding
-her.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse;
-walked till three o’clock, when I found her in the centre
-of a lot about two miles from town—dead. I hastened
-to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as my mare
-had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me
-to look about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I
-succeeded I was to call on him again in the morning.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names
-of those to be placed on mounted guard, cried out mine.
-Accordingly, I with three others marched down to the
-public square, where we paraded, and dinner, or rather
-supper, being over, we were placed as sentinels till three
-o’clock in the morning. I then went to the guard-fire,
-spread down my blanket and slept till day-light.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—To-day we were allowed two-third rations of
-coarse Taos flour, some coffee without sugar, and poor
-mutton. We sometimes got a few peaches from the inhabitants
-in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &amp;c.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—Finding our flour nearly gone I went out and
-bought a baked pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit
-exhibited for sale, but had no money to buy any. Our
-scouting party which had been sent out a few days ago,
-returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest
-among them. They were captured 12 miles down, on
-their way to Chihuahua, with papers containing information
-of our movements to the Mexican army in that quarter.
-They were placed under strict surveillance.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 10th.</i>—I went to church with a number of
-others, and witnessed all the ceremonies, and manœuvres
-of this singular people. The church is large, and the
-handsomest and best built house in the place. I saw the
-representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with various<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>
-other images in and near the altar. On our return we
-found multitudes in the open street playing cards—sorry
-to say, some were American soldiers.</p>
-
-<p><i>13th.</i>—Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary
-duties of the day are soon accomplished, and no
-novelty to amuse or excite, the soldiers become restless
-and are ready for any excess. Our living consists of
-poor mutton, the miserable Taos flour and a little coffee.
-Some complain and others “hook” what they can to
-improve their fare.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—I was taken last night with a violent headache
-and pain in the bowels. My diarrhœa having become
-much worse I got up and went to the Surgeon, who gave
-me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do. rhubarb and 2
-do. tartar, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this
-monstrous compound and sat by the guard-fire till morning,
-I then laid on my blanket and slept till 3 o’clock in
-the evening. Needing some refreshment, I tried my
-mess, but they had nothing I could relish; I went to
-Sergeant Edwards and he gave me a lump of sugar to
-sweeten my coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune
-to purchase some molasses. At length I applied to a
-messmate who had come to me a few days after my horse
-had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent
-to let him draw the rations of my horse I should have the
-use of this mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent
-his mule away to graze, and was <i>selling my corn</i>.
-When I presented my petition, he turned his back as a
-refusal, and went down among the gamblers and lost
-every cent.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to
-our Surgeon, who gave me a small lump of sugar, charging
-me to take particular care of the article, as it was
-only intended for the <i>sick</i>. He felt my pulse and made
-me swallow a large dose of salts and tartar; I then went
-to my blanket.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—I awoke this morning with a high fever and
-headache. The Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I
-was placed in the hospital, under the particular care of a
-doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who said he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>
-was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man
-in the regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very <i>politely</i>
-took a pinch of sugar between his thumb and finger
-to sweeten it for me, talking the while of “his superior
-skill,” &amp;c.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied
-to the Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of
-American flour; I baked a small cake to eat with my
-coffee. At night I spread my blanket in the tent, and
-slept with my mess.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled
-over the graveyard, where the remains of young Leland
-were interred yesterday. This young man died of the
-fever prevailing among the troops, and his grave is close
-to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles of
-bones lay around—in the centre of some of the hills were
-erected wooden crosses.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hospital,
-with high fever and headache—bed hard and uncomfortable,
-consequently little sleep or rest. The doctor,
-in his round, asked me why I was not out at the
-roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his
-direction, from the sick list. He said there was nothing
-the matter with me, and he would give me no more medicine.
-He charged me with being home-sick, &amp;c. &amp;c.,
-with many other <i>tender</i> and <i>endearing</i> epithets. Weak
-and quite unwell, I left the hospital and found my way
-to Col. Doniphan’s quarters, I consulted Dr. Morton, who,
-with expressions of sympathy, gave me the necessary
-restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with very
-sore eyes.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—I was somewhat recovered from my illness,
-through the humane treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still
-suffered considerably from my eyes. I felt much regret
-that I was prevented from joining Capt. Hudson, who
-took our company on a scout, and will be gone several
-days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here,
-occasioned by the non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with
-the artillery from Santa Fe. Col. Doniphan is hourly
-expecting this reinforcement.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span><i>27th.</i>—Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer
-picket guard, who could give no satisfactory account of
-himself, and told so many contradictory tales, that our
-Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At ten o’clock
-our company returned from the scouting expedition;
-they went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it
-was deserted. They think it very likely we shall have
-no fighting to do at Chihuahua.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—While on guard to-day over the prisoners
-taken at the battle of Bracito, I thought I would write
-in my journal, I searched my belt for it in vain. It was
-gone!—taken out probably by some mischievous soldier
-in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account
-of every thing <i>interesting to myself</i> at least, since the
-day I left Carroll County, Missouri. Having another
-blank book I commenced writing again, but felt provoked
-at my loss.</p>
-
-<p><i>30th.</i>—This morning, being relieved from the duty of
-sentinel, I went immediately to Capt. Hudson and stated
-the loss of my journal. He asked me a number of questions
-in relation to it, and appeared pleased at so unusual
-an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told
-the soldiers that Maryland’s book must be restored or
-every man in his command should be searched.</p>
-
-<p><i>31st.</i>—The impatience of our boys for the arrival of
-the artillery has induced several to go out to meet it.
-This evening some of them returned, and said it was not
-more than 30 miles off. To-day my book was found on
-the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed
-by the Captain’s order, and dropped it in the most convenient
-place.</p>
-
-<p><i>February 1st.</i>—We paraded early, and about 12
-o’clock several rounds from our artillery-men, just across
-the Rio Grande, announced the arrival of Capt. Weightman
-from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and two
-twelve pound howitzers. They marched in town in right
-order; our men firing the salute from our piece of captured
-cannon just as they reached the public square. This
-company is an important acquisition to our small force.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—Early orders were received that Lieut. Col.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span>
-Mitchell, at the head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would
-move down to the fort to-day. Every thing being in
-readiness we came on in double file, and arrived at sunset
-at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons being delayed
-on the road, every thing like food in this small place
-was had in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and we
-made our supper on pies, cheese, bread, &amp;c.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—This morning we were told to saddle up and
-hasten forward to overtake the traders, who had disobeyed
-orders in preceding us; we were ordered to bring
-them back. In obedience to the order we started and
-travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexicans,
-who endeavored to elude our observation. Our
-first and second Lieutenants wishing to know who they
-were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run
-of two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and
-searched. One was the alcalde from the town where we
-staid last night. We halted late in the evening on the
-road, where we met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre,
-&amp;c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no
-papers being found on his person, he was suffered to pass.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—Marched on several miles, overtook and encamped
-with the traders, who had formed their wagons in a
-pen or coral, tried to refresh ourselves on a supper of
-black bread, poor beef, and sassafras tea, cooked over a
-fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of the
-sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction
-cost 25 cents to-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—The ground was so uneven we did not erect our
-tents, but spread our blankets and went to bed; the
-cold prevented any thing like refreshing sleep. We
-arrived late at our former encampment, and found Col.
-Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone
-to see Col. Doniphan. He brought news, which was
-currently reported there, viz. that Gen. Taylor had been
-overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the Mexicans, and
-was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course this
-was a Mexican story, told no doubt for effect—and it
-had its effect upon our boys, for it made us feel as if we
-could fight like lions against the treacherous foe. We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span>
-waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was making
-every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for
-my own use to-day a pair of wooden spurs.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—This morning after roll-call and breakfast, we
-fed our horses and mules, and tried to rest and amuse
-ourselves. At supper I made some pancakes, without
-milk or eggs, unfortunately I put rather too much <i>salt</i>
-in my batter. Fifteen men were sent down the river
-on a scouting expedition to-night. My name was called
-to be on guard, so I gathered up my blanket and went
-into the line with the rest. I was placed in first relief,
-near the river. I walked two hours, then went to bed
-at 12 o’clock by the guard-fire; I was awakened by
-the Corporal at three, and stood till morning.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—Prepared my clothes by washing and mending,
-for our departure. Boiled some beans and beef for my
-mess. The weather was very disagreeable, and we all
-felt weary of our delay.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—While busily engaged fixing up to-day, Col.
-Doniphan came on with the artillery and encamped
-near us. All is now bustle and excitement, as it is said
-we shall start in the morning.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to-day
-with the army, as it is very cold and cloudy. Our
-boys are making desperate efforts to amuse themselves.
-Among other things, our sutler is here with his establishment,
-and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint.
-With some honorable exceptions, the scene among officers
-and men may be much “better imagined than described.”</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—The whole of Col. Doniphan’s regiment, including
-the Chihuahua Rangers, started this morning
-for the South to join Gen. Wool. We marched in right
-order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—The wagons not coming in last night, some
-uneasiness was expressed by our Commander, when,
-with fifteen others, I returned to where we encamped the
-night before, and found the train just about to move on.
-We passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last
-night 250 mules and 50 yoke of oxen, driven off by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>
-Indians. We came to our camp and found cooking to
-be the order of the day. We are about entering another
-jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed.</p>
-
-<p><i>13th.</i>—Detained here to have all in complete readiness.
-The Indians were at their thievish work again. Last
-night they drove off some cattle and mules belonging to
-the traders. The skill and daring evinced by these bands
-of savages exceed belief. They follow the army, and
-are always prowling around our camp at night.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 14th.</i>—Although on mounted guard nearly all
-night, I made all the haste I could to eat an early breakfast
-and saddle up. I was among the first in the ranks.
-Here we were told that the burial of two soldiers, who
-expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes
-longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8
-o’clock; came on the jornada five miles, and halted to
-feed our horses and mules. I was in the rear guard behind
-the prisoners all day—travelled a long and wearisome
-journey through the sand until 8 o’clock at night.
-I ate a small piece of bread and meat, and spread my
-blanket at the guard-fire, where I slept till four. I was
-awakened by the officer of the watch and stood till six.
-I was at last relieved by the sound of the tattoo.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast,
-which was a cold cut. We again moved on, and
-came 20 miles through this jornada and encamped late in
-the night. No water was as yet to be seen. Our Sergeant
-measured to each man a half pint. One man sold
-his half pint for 50 cents.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—We made an early start, and after marching 15
-miles, came to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses
-and mules rushed in and drank all they could get.
-Ascending the hill before us a spring was discovered, but
-the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a
-slight shower of rain, with lightning and thunder.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—On awaking, the first thing I heard was that a
-man in our company was dead. The poor fellow had
-left a wife and family in Missouri to serve his country.
-He was taken sick at El Paso, with the measles, and had
-come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span>
-grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an impressive
-speech. He stated that “this was the third time
-he had been called, on occasions like the present, to perform
-the mournful duty to men in his command, and that
-it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst,”
-&amp;c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor
-Tolly over with soap-weed, and filled up the grave.
-After trampling the dirt and leveling the ground, we
-marched off in right order to this spot, where we shall
-rest to-day.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his
-horse, to enable him to go in search. I was rewarded
-for this favor, by being compelled to stay behind my
-company several hours, till he returned with his horse.
-We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the
-command at a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the
-top of a small eminence. It boiled up very curiously in
-the centre, covering the surface with bubbles. The temperature
-about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely fit to
-drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the
-men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when
-it got cold enough. The country still presents a barren
-appearance, the soil sterile; the surface rocky and mountainous.
-We marched 14 miles, and about sunset, encamped
-close to a small stream, which supplied a few
-poor villagers with water. The people busied themselves
-in preparing for us, what they could, viz. a little
-muskeet brush to cook with, and corn for our cattle. In
-crossing this jornada, the teamsters were obliged to
-throw away 5000 pounds flour, and leave several wagons
-behind—the mules being unable to proceed.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—After a journey of such length over uneven
-ground, the fatigue of the army induced our Commander
-to remain in camp to-day. About two o’clock the wind
-began to rise, and increased in violence till the tents
-were leveled to the ground. We tried to cook by
-digging pits in which to place the fire. The sand blowing
-in clouds, covered our food; making it gritty and unpleasant
-to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm of
-wind stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unsheltered,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>
-we had to do the best we could, and that was bad
-enough. We laid down, as we had often done before,
-on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on hillocks
-and tufts of grass.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—The wind having abated, we were all in line
-at an early hour—came nine miles through this ranch, to
-the mouth of another jornada. Here the same scene of
-desolation is presented. No cultivation to be seen any
-where, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production except
-the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm,
-and the nights very cold, in this region.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st.</i>—Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs,
-which are situated in a ranch, and encamped. The
-army will here halt a day or two. The same arrangements
-are to be made as before. While cooking my
-meat and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with
-18 others, I was appointed to go before the command several
-miles. Hastily despatching the meal, we mounted
-and rode out a long distance, where we had to stand all
-night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the
-road side.</p>
-
-<p><i>22d.</i>—I was relieved from duty early this morning by
-the next detail. Feeling much disordered from loss of
-rest and fatigue. I was greatly obliged to a messmate
-who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a
-piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing—we
-went into line by sections of four, and marched 17
-miles where we encamped at a place where the men had
-water; but none could be spared to the poor horses and
-mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the
-ground and went to sleep.</p>
-
-<p><i>23d.</i>—Without waiting for refreshment of any kind,
-we came on to-day eight miles to a pond, where we
-watered our horses and mules—we stopped for the poor
-animals to graze awhile and then proceeded three miles,
-when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Several
-antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were
-fixed up, we boiled some of the flesh, which made fine
-eating; the repast was seasoned with a good appetite;
-a fast of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry
-enough.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span><i>24th.</i>—In conversation with my Captain—I expressed
-a wish to go up a neighboring mountain, as I understood
-a large Tagoon could be seen from its summit.
-He told me to go and make all the observations I could.
-Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by
-climbing over large rocks, in which were formed several
-immense caves—some of them I thought were well fitted
-to be the resort of robbers. At length I found myself on
-the top, and set down to write. At the distance of three
-miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in
-the bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the
-left a continuous range of mountains loom up, whose bare
-and rugged tops present to the mind the idea of coldness
-and desolation. The whole face of the country is destitute
-of wood, and verdure, except a species of brush or
-thorn bushes. Looking towards our camp, I beheld a
-long line of wagons stretching along the road as far as
-the sight could reach. They were all in motion, and the
-sight made me hasten down the mountain at a brisk pace.
-It was our army preparing for a start and I did not wish
-to be left “solitary and alone,” in that rocky region. In
-a few minutes we took up the line of march—came 12
-miles and encamped at sunset. We saw Mexican spies
-at a distance. The picket guard came in and reported,
-that 10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off,
-ready to give us battle.</p>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—The sound of the reveille started every man to
-his post by light. We moved on eight miles to the lake,
-and watered our horses and mules. We saw nothing of
-the Mexicans. The country begins to improve as we
-leave the jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes
-or ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie
-grass grows with some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the
-soldiers commenced baking bread, made from the
-wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind
-prevailing—sparks were carried out, which set the dry
-brush and weeds in aflame. The Chihuahua Rangers had
-orders to subdue the fire, and we commenced threshing
-it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing we
-found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span>
-in spite of us. The whole command was put in action
-with their horses, beating a track, to stop the progress
-of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the fire caught the
-grass on the other side of the track, and the wind
-blowing tremendously, the fire was carried in almost
-every direction. We then encamped on the burnt
-ground, off of which the grass had been burnt, and picketing
-our horses on the left of the road in the prairie, we
-laid down to rest. In a few hours we were awakened
-to bring our horses in, for the whole prairie was on fire.
-Coming out of my tent, a sight appeared of such magnificence
-as had never before met my eyes. It was an
-opposite mountain on fire, and the whole prairie, as far as
-the eye could reach, in flames. A strange glare tinged
-the clouds, and all surrounding objects, and presented a
-scene which was fearfully grand. It consumed nearly all
-the grass in the country 15 miles towards Chihuahua.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—We continued winding through the mountain
-passes and plains 16 miles. Our advance found a coral
-to-day, in which were 50 sheep and 15 cattle, driven in
-from the surrounding neighborhood. They were immediately
-butchered for the command, the soldiers being
-nearly exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful
-day for our march. The wind was so high that we could
-scarcely see a hundred yards ahead.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—The artillery and wagons were kept in front
-all day, the whole army being formed in two lines in the
-rear. We marched in right order 8 miles, and encamped
-on the margin of a lake. Here we shall halt till to-morrow.
-Scouts were sent out in every direction. I was
-busily engaged all the evening writing for our boys, who
-believe themselves to be on the eve of some engagement
-with the enemy. Saw several of our men come in, leading
-a horse—soon learned that spies being seen by our advance,
-Capt. Skillman of the traders’ company, and Capt. Parsons
-of the E company from Cole County, with others
-gave chase and overtook one. The fellow finding he was
-likely to become a prisoner, leaped off, and fled up the
-mountain leaving his horse and all his rigging behind.
-He was elegantly mounted. Col. Mitchell has just informed
-us that a battle will be fought to-morrow.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i065.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 28th.</i>—At sunrise this morning, we took up our
-line of march, having learned from our spies that the
-enemy in great numbers, had fortified the pass of the
-river Sacramento, about 15 miles off. Our train consisting
-of 315 traders’ wagons, and our Commissary and
-company wagons, in all about 400, were formed into four
-columns, so as to shorten our lines. The whole command
-marched in right order between the columns, thus
-concealing our force from the enemy. When we arrived
-within three miles of their entrenchments, Col. Doniphan
-made a reconnoisance of their position, and examined the
-arrangement of their forces. This was easily done, as our
-road led through an open prairie valley between the high
-mountains. The pass of the Sacramento is formed by a
-point of the mountains on our right, their left extending
-into the valley, so as to narrow the valley about one and
-a half miles. On our left was a deep, dry channel of a
-creek, and between these points, the plain rises abruptly
-about 50 or 60 feet. The road passes down the centre
-of the valley, and in the distance we had a full view of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span>
-the Mexican army. On the point of the mountain, they
-had a battery of four guns, so elevated as to sweep the
-plain. On the left, there was another battery commanding
-the road, with six pounders and rampart pieces,
-mounted on carriages. Their cavalry was drawn up in
-front of their redoubts, in the interval of four deep.
-When we had arrived near their entrenchments, our columns
-suddenly diverged to the right, so as to gain the elevation,
-which the enemy endeavored to prevent by moving
-forward with four pieces of cannon and 1000 cavalry.
-But our movements were so rapid, that we not only gained
-the eminence, but were formed in order for their reception.
-Our company (Capt. Hudson’s) now dismounted,
-and every eighth man was detailed, to hold horses and
-mules. It fell to my lot to hold eight mules. The action
-now commenced by a brisk fire from our cannons, doing
-considerable execution at the distance of twelve hundred
-yards, killing fifteen of the enemy, and disabling one of
-their guns. Our fire was briskly returned from 14 pieces
-of artillery, sending ragged balls, and heavy copper ore.
-But being badly aimed they struck the ground about
-forty or fifty yards before us, and rebounding passed over
-our heads without harm, except slightly wounding two
-men, and killing several horses and mules in the rear.
-Our guns were so well aimed as to compel the enemy to
-fall behind the breastworks. We resumed our march
-in our former order, diverging as much as possible to
-the right, to avoid a heavy battery, and their strongest
-redoubts, which were on our left, near the common road.
-After marching as far as we thought it prudent, without
-coming in range of their heavy battery, Capt. Weightman
-of the artillery, was ordered to charge it with two 12 lb.
-howitzers, to be supported by the cavalry, under Captains
-Reid, Parsons and Hudson. We then remounted
-and charged the battery from right to left, with a brisk
-and deadly fire from our rifles. We then advanced to
-the very brink of their redoubts, and drove them out with
-our sabres. The enemy now fell back on their centre
-battery, where they made a desperate rally, and gave us
-a shower of balls and copper ore, which whizzed over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>
-our heads without doing us any injury except wounding
-several men and killing a few mules and horses. Major
-Clarke was ordered to commence a heavy fire upon this
-battery, which being well directed, together with the
-rapid advance of our columns, put them to flight over the
-mountains in utter confusion, leaving all their cannons,
-and the ground strewed with their dead and wounded.
-Thus ended the battle of Sacramento, which commenced
-about three o’clock, and ended about sunset. The enemy
-numbered 4220 rank and file, and lost 300 killed
-500 wounded, beside 40 prisoners. The American force
-consisted of 924 effective men, 1 killed, 11 wounded.
-Our success is to be attributed entirely to the superior
-skill of our commander. Had he not taken advantage of
-position, in keeping out of range of redoubts and batteries,
-we should all have shared a common fate, as the black
-piratical flag was captured, together with a wagon load
-of that formidable weapon, the lariat, which was intended to
-tie us all to our saddles in case of a defeat. The Mexicans
-lost ten pieces of artillery, varying from five to ten
-lbs. and seven one lb. culverines. One of the cannon is
-very valuable, being composed of silver and brass melted
-together. They also lost all their baggage, ammunition,
-&amp;c., and provisions enough to last us three months were
-found in their wagons, together with $4000 in specie. It
-was gratifying to see the soldiers shaking hands with
-their officers after the engagement and tendering their
-congratulations to their commander for his skill and
-bravery displayed on this memorable occasion. The
-Surgeons are now busily engaged in administering relief
-to the wounded Mexicans, and it is a sight to see the
-pile of legs and arms that have been amputated. The
-cries and groans of the poor fellows, are distressing in
-the extreme. It is a fact, worthy of note, that the atmosphere
-here in this mountainous region is so perfectly
-pure and clear that a cannon shot can be seen coming,
-when it is a considerable distance off, by leaving a blue
-streak in the air. Many a soldier saved his life in the
-battle by dodging the balls as they came forward. When
-a flash would be seen from the enemy’s battery, you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span>
-could hear the soldiers cry out—“watch the ball boys!—here
-comes a ball boys,” and they invariably avoided
-them, or the slaughter must have been very great. I
-saw a ball coming in the direction where I was, when
-immediately falling off my mule, it passed just over my
-saddle without injury. Our rapid movements seemed to
-astonish the enemy. Our four pieces of flying artillery,
-discharging five times in a minute, volleys of grape and
-canister, with chain shots, would rake the enemy’s
-redoubts and cut roads through their lines, while our 12 lb.
-howitzers throwing a constant shower of bombs into the
-middle of their entrenchments, and the unerring aim of
-our Mississippi rifles, acting in concert; cast terror and
-dismay among the cowardly and unprincipled foe. Our
-men acted nobly, and in the hand to hand fight in the
-redoubts they fought to desperation. Lieutenant Sprawl,
-our 2d Lieutenant, a man over six feet high with bared
-arms, and without his hat, his longhair and beard streaming
-in the wind, with sword in hand, was charging the
-enemy at every point, when a ball struck his splendid
-charger, and he fell. But seizing his carbine he kept up
-with us on foot. Another of our men, being unhorsed,
-and fighting near me, was attacked by a Mexican who
-was about to lance him, and the poor fellow’s gun being
-discharged, he picked up a rock, and throwing it, struck
-his enemy on the head, which felled him to the earth,
-when he knocked his brains out with the butt of his gun.
-These were but common occurrences in that hard contested
-fight, where we had to contend with nearly five
-to one.</p>
-
-<p><i>March 1st.</i>—After spending a comfortable night,
-feasting on the good things of our enemy, and making
-our prisoners bury the dead, we started with the remains
-of Major Owings, and after marching four miles encamped.
-My mule having received a wound in the loins yesterday,
-cannot be found this morning, so I borrowed one
-of the Commissary.</p>
-
-<p><i>2d.</i>—Placed on mounted guard to precede the army,
-whose entrance in the city will take place to-day. Came
-ten miles; saw the spire of the Cathedral towering in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span>
-the distance, with peculiar feelings of delight. A
-merrier group could scarcely be pictured than our worthy
-Col. Mitchell and his escort. We entered the beautiful
-city of Chihuahua about 12 o’clock, and proceeded immediately
-to the plaza or public square. The inhabitants
-are polite, and manifest in various ways the utmost complaisance,
-and regard to our soldiery. Of course we see
-the fairest specimens of the Mexican character here, and
-afford us evidences of superior intelligence, comfort and
-industry. While the soldiers were scattered in various
-directions, seeking refreshments, I took a walk alone, and
-seated myself in a quiet nook, fronting the Cathedral.
-It is an imposing structure of white marble. It was
-about fifty years in building—the production of a gold
-mine, and cost <i>three million dollars</i>. I felt too much
-fatigued to write a long description of even a beautiful
-church, although, had it been otherwise, such employment
-would have been pleasant to me. The tones of
-the bell are grand. It strikes the hour, and can be
-heard at a great distance. At sundown Col. Doniphan
-arrived in town with the rest of the command, all in fine
-order. The band was playing Washington’s March—just
-as we reached the public square, the tune was
-changed to Yankee Doodle, when there was a general
-huzza. We then marched through the town and took
-up our quarters on the outskirts. I was placed on picket
-guard and had to be up all night—first to watch the
-prisoners, and then to walk my post three hours.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—All is now tranquil. The funeral of Major
-Owings took place to-day. Every thing was conducted
-with the utmost decency and order.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—This morning I sallied forth for a ramble. I
-went through the thickest parts of the city, which I should
-judge contained about 40,000 inhabitants. The streets
-cross at right angles, and the houses are mostly built of
-the usual sun-dried brick, in Mexican style, with flat
-roofs, and close barred windows, as if intended for defence
-against street assaults, or rival factions. I was,
-afterwards, introduced to some senoras, and drank some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>
-coffee with them—they using the <i>ardiente</i>, instead of
-cream in theirs.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—Passing near the public square I encountered
-Col. Mitchell, with several officers on horseback, before
-a handsome building. The Colonel was earnestly engaged
-in conversation with a man, who, it appeared
-was an Englishman. I soon learned that our Colonel
-wished to search the building, but the English gentleman
-said he should not. I was called on, with several
-others who were standing near to form ranks, and go at
-once and arm ourselves. We ran to our quarters, and
-soon returned well equipped. I had not been in the
-line more than a minute, when I saw my entire company,
-the Chihuahua Rangers, come up. I, of course, left my
-position and with them paraded before the house. The
-Englishman being still very stubborn and refusing to
-give up the keys, the Colonel ordered two pieces of
-artillery to be brought down immediately and placed before
-the door. Turning to look for the man, I found he
-had escaped to the top of a house, not far off, where he
-stationed himself to watch our movements. He no
-sooner espied the cannon, than he ran down in great haste,
-begging for a few minutes to open the door, saying
-“somebody might be killed,” &amp;c. We then entered
-peaceably. Magoffin, the trader, whom the authorities
-of the city had condemned to death as a traitor,
-cannot be found. On inquiry, we learned that he had
-been sent to Durango. But several are of opinion, that
-he has been killed.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—I went to the Secretary’s office and wrote letters
-to my sisters in Maryland.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—For several days past we have been relieved
-from all extra duty, only answering to the roll-call
-night and morning. I have been busily engaged to-day
-writing letters for different persons.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—During the past week I have had no time to
-write in my journal. I have been busy in writing letters for
-others, and assisting in writing out requisitions, &amp;c. I
-received to-night the first number of the “Anglo Saxon,”
-a paper printed by our boys, and the first American newspaper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span>
-ever published in Chihuahua. On Wednesday
-the 15th, the express started from here for the United
-States. Many weary months have passed, and we have
-heard no tidings from home and friends. Truly a soldier’s
-lot is a hard one.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—I had a chill last night, which ended in a fever.
-I felt thankful that I was favored with every attention
-from Lieut. Sprawl, who is as kind and generous as he
-is brave. A few hours sleep recovered me in some degree
-from the stupidity in which the fever left me, and I
-arose from the stone floor refreshed. I went to church,
-which was opened for Mass, but soon returned with a
-headache, longing for the simple and sweet worship of
-my own church at home. An express consisting of
-twelve men was sent on to General Taylor to-day.</p>
-
-<p><i>20th.</i>—I took a stroll through the town—went down
-to the American Hotel to learn what news was stirring.
-Nothing is heard from the South.</p>
-
-<p><i>23d.</i>—We have at this time all that is necessary for
-our comfort, and nothing to do but attend to our slight
-duties, and the care of our mules and horses. A strict
-guard is kept. The captured cannon is in charge of the
-non-commissioned officers, and our company has to
-practice target shooting. Being number four I have to
-touch off the guns. The concussion jars my head so
-much that I have to place a quid of tobacco in <i>each</i>
-cheek, to prevent it from injuring my teeth, which are very
-sore. The companies are all well disciplined, and with
-our 25 pieces of artillery, Col. Doniphan says he would
-defy 10,000 Mexicans. When not on duty, our men resort
-to every kind of mischief by way of amusement. Two
-pieces of artillery found at this place, were by them, on
-yesterday, dismounted and blown up. They were filled
-with powder and plugged, and the muzzles being buried
-in the earth several feet, a slow match was applied. The
-reports were terrific. They have also burnt all the powder.
-A train, nearly one-fourth of a mile in length, was
-made and set off, and which ignited several barrels at its
-termination. The poor affrighted Mexicans, meanwhile,
-ran off crying “no wano, no wano,” (very bad, very bad.)<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span>
-Another species of fun, consists in collecting all the
-dogs that can be found during the day, and carefully
-shutting them in a room; at night each dog is brought
-out, and a large bundle of fire works fastened to his tail.
-He is then let loose, amid the general halloo; and being
-enveloped in sparks, accompanied with the noise of small
-fire arms, wherever he runs in the crowded streets, the
-Mexicans fly before him with the utmost consternation.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, April 4th.</i>—This was the appointed morning
-for us to leave Chihuahua for the south. But, on account
-of a bull fight, our trip is postponed. As soon as
-church was over, the soldiers hastened to see this great
-sight. As I was conscientious in regard to the violation
-of the Sabbath, I, of course, staid behind; I was, however,
-informed by the men on their return, that five bulls
-were let loose, but none were killed. If they cannot
-strike the animal in some vital part, they are obliged to
-let him live. The blows were badly dealt and the bull
-escaped. This is a strange mixture of christianity with
-the barbarities of heathenism. Card playing, cock fighting,
-bull baiting, and dancing, are the chief amusements
-of these people, and they are always accompanied with
-excessive drinking, not unfrequently with quarrelling and
-fighting, in which the belligerents are bruised, their
-limbs broken, and their lives sometimes destroyed.
-What an idea of the character of God must be entertained
-in the midst of such performances? He can hardly be
-regarded as a God of love, whose delight is in the upright
-walk and chaste conversation of his people. The
-service of that blinded population, comports better with
-what we might suppose would be the worship of the
-devil, were such worship distinctly ordered. Alas!
-for the darkness in which so many of our race are enveloped!</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—The wagons were loaded for our long journey—but
-a difficulty in getting our soldiers together detained
-us till two o’clock, P. M. At length, every
-thing being in readiness, we started out of town. Some
-of our men imagined themselves commanders in chief,
-assumed to give orders, and were otherwise troublesome.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>
-We succeeded in reaching a ranch, twelve miles
-off, and encamped.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—Moved on twenty-five miles, and stopped at a
-ranch late in the evening. Putting our horses in a clover
-field—we spread our blankets on the ground and rested
-till morning.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—After accomplishing another 25 miles to-day,
-we erected our tents close to the walls of a town. Here
-we were joined by two strangers, who said they came
-from a coral, 140 miles off, to inform us that a large Mexican
-force of about 10,000 soldiers were on their way to
-re-take Chihuahua. They also stated, that Generals
-Taylor and Wool had gone far to the south, in the direction
-of the city of Mexico. These men being native
-Americans induced our Colonel to listen to their story,
-which, if true, would have placed us in a bad situation.
-With one half of our command left behind at Chihuahua,
-we could be easily cut off from this point.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—This morning we had orders to start back to
-Chihuahua. After marching 25 miles reached the second
-ranch, and encamped.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—Our Sergeant woke us all at two o’clock to get
-our breakfast, and make an early start. We travelled
-briskly 36 miles, and arrived at Chihuahua about four
-o’clock. Here we are again in the city, at our old
-quarters.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—I have been employed in writing for our Surgeon,
-and others, for several days past. Yesterday we heard that
-Vera Cruz was taken by Gen. Scott. Twenty-eight
-rounds were fired by our artillery-men.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—I witnessed to-day the mode of punishment
-among the Mexicans, and felt disgusted at the sight.
-Offenders are tied to a tree and severely lashed for different
-offences. I saw several whipped to-day for horse stealing.
-At night it commenced raining. The first rain
-since we have been in the city. I was too sick to perform
-the duty of sentinel.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—The morning air being clear and cool I took
-a walk to relieve the excessive languor I feel. I have
-little or no appetite, and my spirits are very much depressed.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>
-I went to the American Hotel, where a great
-many questions were asked me. While there I read an
-advertisement of a grand ball to be given on Sunday,
-18th, entrance $2. It is really distressing to contemplate
-the desecration of the Sabbath in this country.
-Oh! how I long to be once more in a truly christian
-land, and among congenial spirits.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 18th.</i>—Various exhibitions encountered at
-every step throughout the city to-day. Sunday as it is,
-gambling is the most prominent. At night the greater
-part of our men went to the ball.</p>
-
-<p><i>19th.</i>—Drew off some writing for our Doctor; afterwards,
-with a messmate, took a bath in the river—still
-quite sick, and nothing to eat, but poor beef, with bread
-and coffee. This stone floor is particularly hard to rest
-on.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—I went with a Mexican to see the <i>prison</i>. He
-was very polite and accommodating; he took me through
-the cells, and showed me the blocks, and chains, handcuffs,
-lariats, &amp;c. that had been prepared to keep all the
-prisoners safely, which they expected to have taken in
-the battle. They were to have been kept here until they
-could be marched on foot to the city of Mexico. But
-they counted their game a little too soon! The prison
-is the darkest and most gloomy place I ever saw.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday morning, 25th.</i>—Just as the church bells
-began to ring, our men geared up their mules, and at 11
-o’clock, two companies started out of town with the
-artillery, and arrived about three o’clock at the first ranch.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—An early start took us to the second ranch 25
-miles. To-night our second battalion came up.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—After marching 36 miles to-day we came to a
-town called Santa Cruz, where we encamped.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—We lay by here, and wait for the rest of the
-army, which will start from Chihuahua to-day.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—At day-break we set out, and after marching
-21 miles came to Sousilla, a town situated on the river
-Couchas, which is, at that place, a considerable stream.
-I went with one or two hundred others, and took a refreshing
-bath. At night I cooked a supper of coarse<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>
-bread, beef and coffee, with the materials of a coral,
-which we tore down.</p>
-
-<p><i>30th.</i>—Still travelling on the Rio Couchas. Passed a
-town called Los Cruezas, and at the end of 28 miles encamped
-at the town of San Rosalia. Col. Doniphan’s
-first battalion came up to-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>May 1st.</i>—At the sound of the reveille all went in line,
-and after roll-call our captain told us to get our arms in
-good order for inspection at nine o’clock. Every man
-was soon busy firing off loaded guns, cleaning out, &amp;c.
-To-night I went into town and brought a welcome repast
-for my mess, viz. pork-steak and nice bread.</p>
-
-<p><i>2d.</i>—Our Captain, after calling the roll, told us that
-the reveille had sounded thus early for a company to go
-in advance. Came out a few miles and stopped to inspect
-a fort the Mexicans had erected to keep Gen. Wool
-from marching to Chihuahua. It is nicely finished off,
-with port holes for their batteries, &amp;c. The building
-covers nearly an acre of ground; but every thing is silent;
-the place being entirely deserted. A fatiguing march of
-27 miles brought us to a ranch called Remado, where we
-passed the night.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—The country is still barren between these ranchos,
-which are always found in fertile valleys, mostly inhabited.
-Some muskeet brush was all we could find on our
-road to-day; no verdant carpet of grass to relieve the eye
-from the strong glare of the rays of the sun pouring on
-the sandy plains as we pass along. A late hour brought
-us to a large town called Huadaquilla, on the Rio Florida.
-We travelled 30 miles to-day.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—At ten we left—came out six miles and encamped.
-On our way we saw several monuments erected to
-various saints. A pile of rocks marks the grave of one
-great personage. In the centre of the pile is erected a
-cross, adorned with artificial flowers. The country
-around this town is cultivated; provisions are cheap and
-plenty. All the soldiers are now engaged in packing
-provisions and water; the latter precious article, it is
-said, will not be found again till 65 miles are passed over.
-At four, P. M., we came on and travelled 25 miles in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>
-this jornada, and laid ourselves down to sleep in the
-sand, after taking a cut of meat and bread at nearly 12
-o’clock.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—By the time it was light our Orderly came around
-to arouse us to roll-call. Some poor fellows, half asleep,
-staggered off into the ranks. We started and marched
-40 miles through a thick dust, when we came to a pond
-of brackish water, which is sometimes found in these
-deserts. Here we halted for the night. The water was
-quickly drunk by our famishing boys, notwithstanding
-it was a disagreeable mixture of salt and sulphur.</p>
-
-<p><i>6th.</i>—The fatigue and sufferings of yesterday were
-not allayed by a report in camp that several thousand
-Mexicans were lying in wait a few miles ahead, in order
-to cut off our artillery. We marched on ten miles and
-stopped on the banks of the Rio Cerro Gordo, where we
-have tolerably good water.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—I arose from the guard-fire, where I had been
-stretched the last three hours dull and sleepy, having been
-on duty all the former part of the night; I went to my
-mess, whom I found eating breakfast. As soon as we
-got through, our command started and travelled 30 miles.
-Here we stopped at a ranch, near which are several
-springs bursting from a bank, the water of which is very
-clear, but very warm, and of a most disagreeable taste.
-A few hundred yards from the camp we saw a large deserted
-fort, also a coral, which our boys tore down to
-cook with. The face of the country has nothing to recommend
-it, but a vast variety of cactus, beautifully in
-bloom all over the sandy plains. Covered with dust, I
-found a bath in the hot springs very refreshing to-night.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 9th.</i>—Pursued our way uninterruptedly the
-past two days and travelled 40 miles. At night we encamped
-at a town called Mapemilla. At our approach the
-inhabitants fled to the mountains. It was a fine night,
-and their fires in the distance, dotting the mountain side,
-had a singular and romantic effect. News met us here
-that Gen. Scott had whipped Santa Anna, which caused
-Col. Doniphan to fire a salute of 29 rounds.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—At 3 o’clock this morning the reveille sounded.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>
-A little coarse bread, and coffee without sugar, constituted
-breakfast, on which we travelled 30 miles. We
-halted late at night at a ranch called San Sebastian, on
-the Rio Mosas, a stream sufficiently large for swimming.
-It was soon covered with our soldiers enjoying this rare
-luxury.</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—At an early hour we had to bury two of our
-men, who died yesterday. They were found last night
-(after our fatiguing march of 30 miles) dead in the wagons.
-They were buried in a warlike manner. We
-crossed the river two miles below the town, and pursued
-our route 30 miles to another village, called San Lorenzo.
-Here we encamped, but suffered much inconvenience
-from want of water, having to use it very sparingly.
-To-night another grave was opened for another of our
-men.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—As usual, our whole command was put in motion
-at three o’clock, and after marching seven miles
-through a thick dust, had orders to halt and turn back,
-for we had left the right road behind. Our army turned
-about and travelled several miles until we got right. At
-the end of 18 miles we encamped on the Rio Mosas.
-Here, unable to join the swimmers from a violent attack
-of ear-ache, accompanied with a most painful sore mouth,
-which latter I have suffered with since leaving Chihuahua,
-I went to a Dutch surgeon for advice. He looked
-in my mouth a few seconds, and with an air of confidence
-declared that <i>nothing ailed me</i>. I determined thereafter
-to bear my pains like a hero, and almost vowed
-that I would never pester a Dutchman either for his
-sympathy or his prescriptions.</p>
-
-<p><i>13th.</i>—This morning we started early, and after travelling
-30 miles reached a ranch. The first objects that
-met our eyes were six Indians lying dead. They had
-been killed by our advance guard of about 30 rank and
-file, under Capt. Reid. The guard was unexpectedly
-attacked by a body of Indians, which they repulsed,
-after killing 13 of their number, with their chief. He
-must have been a desperate warrior, for even after he
-was shot down, and to the last moment of his life, he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>
-tried to use his bow and arrows. These fellows were
-seen coming from a gap of the mountain, some distance
-off, making direct for our little party, who went out at
-full gallop to meet them. A discharge of arrows was
-met by a volley from our men. A considerable skirmish
-now ensued. The Indians raising the war-whoop,
-rushed on them, discharging their arrows with incredible
-rapidity; but they were forced to retreat, and these bodies
-were dragged hither as trophies.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—About one o’clock in the night, while our
-wearied soldiers slept, two guns were heard. In an instant
-our Captain jumped to his feet, and hurriedly went
-over the ground to wake us all up. In a few moments
-every man had on his arms. After waiting some time
-for the enemy, news came that one of the Lieutenants
-was shot through the hand. It appears that this Lieutenant
-was officer of the night, and in his rounds, tried to
-take a sentinel by surprise. Creeping stealthily on the
-ground to the spot, he was told by the sentinel to stop
-and give the countersign. No answer being returned,
-he fired. As soon as he found that he was shot in the hand
-he returned the charge on the sentinel. But no one can
-tell as yet who this watchful sentinel is. I made up a fire to
-prepare coffee. At two o’clock the reveille sounded for all
-to saddle up. At four we started, and after marching 25
-miles came in sight of Parras, a large city. Our Adjutant
-chose a place for us to encamp, which is in a beautiful
-grove of ornamental cotton trees. The scene is new
-and pleasant. Here are trees, green cornfields, and running
-streams. The gardens in and around the city are
-beautifully arranged, and <i>tastefully</i> supplied with ripe
-apricots, oranges and lemons; also a great variety of
-flowering shrubs and plants.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—We are to pass a day or two here I believe,
-resting from our long travel. This morning one of our
-wagon drivers, who is a sailor, went up town, and by some
-means, most unfortunately, offended several of the Mexican
-gentlemen. Complaint was made to the alcalde, who
-ordered Jack to be taken to the caliboose and flogged,
-going in person to see it done. But Jack knocked him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>
-down and broke his sabre in pieces—whipping several
-others who came to the rescue, and finally walked off to
-camp completely victorious. Word was brought to Col.
-Doniphan about the conduct of his man, who gravely
-told the people that if Gen. Wool could do any thing with
-his men, it was more than he could with his. He said it
-was now too late for him to keep them in order, therefore,
-he should leave on Monday.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 16th.</i>—Preparations are going on in different
-departments for the renewal of our march to-morrow.
-The expectation of soon encountering Generals Taylor
-and Wool, appears to inspire our men with a desire to
-look decent. Old clothes are being washed—sundry holes
-in deerskin pants are in the process of repair, and I think
-we shall not look so very ragged, after all.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—Moved out of town at three o’clock, P. M.
-After marching five miles through a broken, bare country,
-we came to a house, whose <i>shingled</i> roof indicated that
-its builder had been educated in the United States. We
-found it even so, although the man was a Mexican.
-We made a journey of 25 miles to-day, and had a supper
-of excessively tough beef, and coarse bread.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—On our way, very early, as usual—made 18
-miles with a severe ear-ache, from which I have suffered
-almost constantly for several weeks past. Strolling
-out after the tents were fixed up, I saw some soldiers
-walking along with a man in front, whom I learned they
-were about to drum out of service. He proved to be a
-teamster, and not a volunteer. He had, without provocation,
-struck several Mexicans in Parras. The alcalde
-sending on an express to Gen. Wool for protection, induced
-Col. Doniphan to settle the business thus. He
-was made to walk before three armed men, behind whom,
-several bugles performed a doleful ditty. When they
-arrived at the outskirts, the Captain ordered a halt, and
-proclaimed that the man was drummed out of service for
-misbehavior. Whereupon he ordered the men in front
-to kick him. The punishment having been inflicted, the
-poor fellow was turned off, to find a shelter where he
-could.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span><i>11th.</i>—To-night we are encamped at a ranch, almost
-overflowed with water which is coming down in a rush,
-in consequence of a heavy rain in the mountains. Made
-to-day 25 miles.</p>
-
-<p><i>21st</i>—Yesterday and to-day we pursued our journey
-without intermission. At night we encamped where
-Gen. Wool had stationed 1000 men as picket guard.
-We received a treat in the shape of nice American flour
-and mess pork, as rations.</p>
-
-<p><i>22d.</i>—I rode with several others to Gen. Wool’s
-camp. On the way we passed over the battle ground of
-Buena Vista, and saw the remains of hundreds of Mexicans
-thrown in heaps and covered over with cactus.
-These remained undisturbed by the wolves while they
-had disinterred our buried Americans and devoured
-them; these animals make a practice of keeping in the
-rear of our advancing armies, and always prefer eating
-our men after death to the Mexicans. I spent an hour
-in contemplating the desolations of war—picked up a
-few Spanish coins, a watch key, cross, &amp;c., with several
-other little matters, as mementos. Gen. Wool’s quarters
-were to be seen in the distance. After spending an hour
-or two in his camp, I returned to our boys, whom I found
-assembled in a congregation, and Capt. Reid holding
-forth in a speech, trying all his might, to get some of
-our men to volunteer again, their term being nearly expired.
-This morning every preparation is made for the
-reception of Gen. Wool, who is expected to receive the
-command. All in right order, we marched out, the artillery
-in front, our company (the Chihuahua Rangers)
-next, and so on. As he rode up, the artillery-men fired
-a salute, and while passing along the lines with his escort,
-we had orders to “present arms.” After the
-parade was over, we were marched back to <i>camp</i>, where
-the General came to inspect the captured cannon, and
-see the black flag, taken at the battle of Sacramento.
-At night we drew rations of bacon and dried apples,
-which good things, some of our boys thought were given
-as a <i>bribe</i> to induce them to re-enlist.</p>
-
-<p><i>Sunday, 23d.</i>—We left at an early hour, and as we passed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>
-through Gen. Wool’s encampment, we turned over to
-him our American artillery, consisting of six pieces, received
-at Santa Fe. We retained the Mexican cannon, viz.
-17 pieces taken at the battle of Sacramento, and one piece
-taken at Bracito, and marched on 12 miles to Saltillo, a
-large town among the mountains. The weather is warm
-and pleasant, and in right order we passed through, and
-proceeded on eight miles, we encamped at night in a
-wheat field. We saw to-day several deserted ranchos.</p>
-
-<p><i>24th.</i>—After a long and fatiguing march of 32
-miles, we stopped at a deserted ranch to pass the night.
-In winding through the mountain pass to-day, we turned
-aside to see the fortifications which had been thrown up,
-to stop the progress of Gen. Taylor to Saltillo.</p>
-
-<p><i>25th.</i>—An early start, and fatiguing journey of 25
-miles brought us within four miles of Monterey. From
-our camp we have a full view of the city and palace of
-the Bishop. All this day our road lay through the narrow
-pass of the mountains, one of which is volcanic, and
-has been burning for several years. A heavy rain descended
-to-night, drenching us completely, and in the
-midst of which a grave was dug for a poor soldier, who
-has been sick ever since we left Chihuahua.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—Through a heavy wind we rode into town and
-stopped to see the citadel and wall so bravely scaled by
-our troops after the enemy was driven from their redoubts.
-From this palace, a lovely and extensive view
-of the city and surrounding country is presented. The
-southern fruits and flowers are growing in great luxuriance.
-After our men were satisfied with an inspection,
-we marched through the famous town of Monterey to
-Gen. Taylor’s camp, where we arrived at 12 o’clock.
-We found the old hero encamped in the woods. Immediately
-on our arrival he came to us, in company with
-Col. Doniphan, to see the trophies of our victories. I
-was fortunate enough to grasp the hand of the old General.
-In the afternoon several thousand pack mules
-were sent out with provisions for Gen. Wool.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—At day-break the roll-call was called, and
-Capt. Hudson told us to saddle up, and get ready to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span>
-start. All was in readiness, when orders came that we
-should be delayed till 12 o’clock. A few minutes before
-that hour Gen. Taylor with his escort rode up, and passed
-along the lines, with his hat off, to review us. We
-presented sabres, and then started on our way, the General
-escorting us some distance from his camp. After
-he left us, we pursued our march through a country well
-covered with hackberry and other trees. A long route
-of 32 miles brought us to a ranch, where we halted for
-the night.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—Arrived at a deserted ranch late in the morning,
-after passing 40 miles over a most dreadful road. Being
-in the rear guard, I and eleven others, were obliged to
-assist the wagons up the hills, by pushing at the wheels.
-All along this route decaying bodies and skeletons of
-men, are lying. Some of the bodies still had their clothing
-on, and the stench was almost intolerable. The
-road was also strewed with mules, which had died in
-numbers on their way to Monterey.</p>
-
-<p><i>29th.</i>—The road is only interesting from association.
-Many a brave man has passed it never to retrace his steps.
-Six miles from our last stopping place we reached Seralvo.
-Here we found a regiment of volunteers on the
-march to join Gen Taylor. We waited till the afternoon
-to feed our horses and mules; then marched 14 miles to
-another deserted ranch and stopped to sleep. We saw,
-on our way many ranchos and villages tenantless and
-destroyed. While we were at Seralvo, a Mexican was
-caught, who belonged to the gang that murdered the
-teamsters, and burned up 150 wagons, which were on
-their way to the army. At three o’clock, he was brought
-out in the plaza, and placed against the wall. A file of
-six men, (the Texian Rangers,) stood some ten yards off.
-The prisoner was told by the Colonel that his time was
-at hand. He was then ordered to turn his back. This
-he not only refused to do, but struck fire and lighted his
-cigar. The word was given—all fired—and he fell dead.
-Three balls entered his breast, and three his head. A
-Texian, whose brother had been murdered in the wagon
-train, gave a five dollar gold piece to take the place of
-one who was chosen to do this melancholy business.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/i084.jpg" alt="" /></div>
-<p class="caption">EXECUTION OF A MEXICAN CHIEF.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span><i>Sunday night, 30th.</i>—We have stopped at a town
-called Mier. I felt very weary after a travel of 36 miles.
-This place is notorious on account of a battle that was
-gained by the Texians. Our Rangers were highly elated
-in the thoughts of their success and they became so drunk
-that the defeated Mexicans took them prisoners, and
-marched them off to the city of Mexico. So much for
-the sale of rum. We met with a cordial reception at
-this place.</p>
-
-<p><i>31st.</i>—We encamped in sight of Camargo at two
-o’clock to-day. We crossed the river St. Pon in a ferry
-boat, which was pulled by means of ropes. The crossing
-occupied about two hours, when our troops and
-artillery were landed. This town is well fortified. It
-is the principal depot for supplies to the army, which
-come up this river in small steamers. River water is
-drank, although rendered very filthy by the carcasses of
-mules and horses, which are thrown into it. To-day
-one poor fellow was buried, who had been sick a long
-time. Many a hard jolt in the rough wagon, and hour
-of thirst and weariness had he—but he sleeps quietly
-and peacefully in his lonely rest on the banks of the St.
-Pon.</p>
-
-<p><i>June 1st.</i>—On our way to the Rio Grande, this morning
-one of our men was shot by a party of Mexicans,
-who had concealed themselves in the bushes. He was
-riding alone, when he was fired upon. The charge entered
-his hand and breast, and he fell dead. Capt. Reid
-at the head of 50 men, went after the murderers, and soon
-returned with six of them. They are to be kept in close
-confinement.</p>
-
-<p><i>2nd.</i>—Our officers were in an unpleasant dilemma.
-They did not know how to dispose of the prisoners, and
-after some debate, they concluded to turn them loose.
-A file of soldiers was detailed for that purpose. They
-took them some miles off, and soon returned, announcing
-that <i>they had turned them loose</i>. At 4 o’clock we left,
-and travelled all night through a thick forest of muskeet
-trees and brushwood. About sunrise we arrived at Columbus,
-where we found several steamers ready for us.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span>
-Many of us were miserably disordered from our weary
-midnight march. We encamped on the Rio Grande.
-This evening our cannon was sent down the river two
-miles to be shipped.</p>
-
-<p><i>3d.</i>—Orders were received at an early hour for the
-troops to bring forward their saddles, rigging, &amp;c., to be
-valued. A most unsightly mass was soon presented, the
-dilapidated articles were gathered in a heap. Our Sergeant
-gave notice he should value them as condemned
-property, it being impossible to transport them. A large
-fire was then made, and all were consumed. Our horses
-were placed in charge of a Mr. Van Bibber, who for a
-stipulated sum engaged to drive them through Texas to
-Missouri, and leave them at any point we might designate.
-We walked a mile to the beach, where several
-steamers awaited us. The sick went immediately on
-board. Two or three companies started, while the rest
-of us were detained till very late to assist in shipping the
-cannon. Orders were given that we should remain all
-night, so we went again on shore, spread our blankets on
-the beach, and spent the night rather uncomfortably.</p>
-
-<p><i>4th.</i>—It commenced raining at 3 o’clock this morning.
-After eating a breakfast of coffee and a few hard crackers,
-we hurried on board the steamer. Here we found both
-cabin and deck crowded with men. Our little steamer
-started in the midst of a heavy rain, rendering every thing
-exceedingly unpleasant. Night came on and no cooking
-could be done, so we went on shore, erected our tents,
-ate our suppers and rested quietly through the night.</p>
-
-<p><i>5th.</i>—The bell rang at 3 o’clock for us to come on
-board which we accomplished in the course of an hour.
-One fellow being rather slow, was left behind, but he
-regained the boat before she had gone two miles. Fortunately
-for him an accident happened to the wheel,
-which was found to be broken, thus detaining us for
-repairs several hours. We did not reach Matamoras till
-two o’clock. Here we stopped but a very few minutes,
-and proceeded on till sunset. The boat now stopped to
-take in wood, and the Captain informed us that he should
-leave at moonrise. We laid down on deck on our
-blankets.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span><i>Sunday, 6th.</i>—I was awakened at one o’clock by the
-deck hands to make room to haul in the foot plank. I
-found myself drenched with filthy water, which had run
-under me as I slept. Quietly folding up my blanket I
-thought I would make no complaint, as I was near my
-journey’s end. About sunrise we reached the Balize,
-when all hands landed and erected the tents. After
-breakfast, with a number of others, I went to bathe in
-the sea. We let the breakers pass over our heads.
-They came with such force, that in my present reduced
-state, I found it difficult to stand up under them. Nor
-could I remain long in the water.</p>
-
-<p><i>7th.</i>—We are encamped on the banks of the Rio
-Grande, eight miles from the shipping, which is on the
-opposite side of this narrow neck of land.</p>
-
-<p><i>8th.</i>—A regiment of regulars landed to-day, on their
-way to the seat of war. No ship has appeared as yet to
-take us off.</p>
-
-<p><i>9th.</i>—This morning we had orders to start for Brazos
-Santiago, nine miles from this place. We had not proceeded
-far through the deep sand, when it became necessary
-for those who had the remnant of shoes, to pull
-them off, on account of the sand gathering in them, it
-being above the ankle at every step. Our feet became
-badly blistered by the heat and friction. Most gladly did
-I spread my blanket on the sand and enjoy a night of
-rest, after the fatigues of the day. We are not yet at
-the end of this uncomfortable journey. The shipping is
-in sight, and a short march in the morning will relieve
-the weary teams of their burdens.</p>
-
-<p><i>10th.</i>—We are all on board—artillery, baggage, and a
-motley crew of 250 men, with unshaved faces, ragged
-and dirty, but all in fine spirits, save a few poor fellows,
-whose thin visages show the ravages of disease and
-suffering.</p>
-
-<p><i>11th.</i>—The past has been a memorable night. For
-suffering I have not experienced its equal in all my
-peregrinations through life. In the brig, on board of
-which we took passage, there were 100 bunks (a slight
-elevation made of plank) for the soldiers to sleep on.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>
-When I got in mine, the crowd was so great and the air
-so oppressive, that I thought I would get out, and take
-a few pulls at the fresh atmosphere. Groping along in
-the dark, I endeavored to find some place of egress, but
-the whole gangway was strewed with men, and I was
-forced to return, amid a shower of <i>blessings</i> from the
-poor fellows, on whom I had the misfortune to tread.
-I laid the rest of the night in this hot place, more dead
-than alive. There was not the slightest air, and I was
-covered with a profuse perspiration.</p>
-
-<p><i>12th.</i>—An inspection of this brig, which was beautiful
-in its exterior, convinced me that it was a filthy place
-indeed; especially between decks. It was certainly
-worse than a hog-pen, for just above our bunks, there
-was a sty, in which were several of the real material.
-Two small fires were built for the soldiers to cook with,
-and so many crowded around them, all anxious to be
-served, that a long time elapsed before I could get my
-coffee. As a matter of convenience we were supplied
-with hard crackers and molasses. This diet only increased
-my disease, and I turned a longing eye on a large
-turtle which had been killed and was being served up
-for our officers, and the inmates of the cabin.</p>
-
-<p><i>13th.</i>—Our allowance of water was a coffee pot full
-twice a day for coffee, and a pint apiece for each man to
-drink; a hogshead had been drawn upon deck for our use.
-There is a guard kept throughout each day, over this
-hogshead of miserable water, not fit for horses to drink.
-It was with mingled feelings of admiration and sorrow
-that I saw our brave fellows, who had borne the fatigues
-of the march, and the strong blows of the battle, come
-humbly around the hogshead, which was a central point
-of attraction, and ask for a little cup of water, when they
-were almost famished, and could drink several pints were
-it allowed them. It is a gloomy Sabbath evening—nearly
-calm.</p>
-
-<p><i>14th.</i>—We are running S. E. by E., though the boat
-scarcely glides along, there being a calm. It seems that
-the water is becoming scarcer to-day. The Captain has
-directed that a quart only shall be given to each man for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>
-all purposes. And it is to last 24 hours. When this
-was announced one of the men muttered something which
-I did not hear, but which the Captain disliked; for he told
-us all, that if any one made another threat, he would
-blow his brains out as quick as he would shoot a rattlesnake.
-When this threat was heard the men all roared
-out in a hearty laugh. The Captain was of middle size,
-somewhat corpulent, swarthy in complexion, and blind in
-his right eye. He was rough in his manners, but talked
-very little, especially to us, privates. He is master of the
-brig and is employed by government to convey troops
-across the gulf. His name is Woodsides. This morning
-about a pint of water was issued to each man. Of course,
-no coffee is made. We mixed a little vinegar with some
-water, and with crackers and molasses, made out our supper.
-Two dolphins were caught by the sailors, and one
-of our men caught a young shark. Another turtle is
-served up for the cabin. It was so warm that I could
-not sleep in my bunk, but lay in the gangway, on my
-blanket. At midnight a steamer came alongside, and
-the Captain took on board several barrels of water. It
-was truly a blessing for us.</p>
-
-<p><i>15th.</i>—Coffee and fried shark for breakfast, but a dreadful
-sore mouth (which I fear is the scurvy) makes the
-eating a painful performance. Every indication of land
-was near. At 12 o’clock the Captain said we were 80
-miles from the Balize. In anticipation of a storm, the
-sails were furled, but a little sprinkle of rain was all, and
-we again spread our canvass to the breeze. A sailor was
-sent aloft to see if the light house was in sight, and after
-remaining in the cross trees two hours, he came down
-and said he saw it. A short time after the cry was
-heard, “the pilot boat is coming.” Sails were furled,
-and the pilot was soon on board. In the meantime some
-one cried “three cheers for Capt. Woodsides!” The cry
-was echoed by the crowd, and Capt. Woodsides looked
-bullets. A flag was placed on the bow, a steamer came
-alongside and towed us over the bar, where our Captain
-anchored. We now draw water up the sides of the ship,
-for we are in the Mississippi river, 100 miles from New<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span>
-Orleans. The water is good and there is plenty of it, as
-the river is full. Every man has just as much as he can
-use, and we use it freely enough. After supper I went
-to my bunk, but found it too warm to rest in, so I took
-my blanket, and laid down, as usual, in the gangway—but
-not being able to stretch my feet out, in consequence
-of a sack of bacon in the way, I got up and searched
-about, and at length found an empty bunk of some one
-who had gone on deck to spend the night. I felt weak
-and sick from the heat.</p>
-
-<p><i>16th.</i>—We drew our water from the river to get some
-breakfast, the sailors are washing off the deck, and if
-any man happens in the way, he is sure of having a
-bucket full thrown on him; of course several of our boys
-have had a good drenching. At 8 o’clock a steamer
-took us in tow. As we proceeded up the Mississippi, we
-beheld on its banks large plantations of the sugar cane
-which present a lovely contrast with some countries over
-which I have marched. On the left side of the river is
-Fort Jackson, now nearly in ruins, but still a beautiful
-place. With several of our men I slept on the deck of
-the steamer. We were all in good spirits at the prospect
-of getting home, though the want of a change of clothes
-at this particular juncture is keenly felt. Some are covered
-with filth, and vermin, which have kept their hiding
-places within our garments, for many a long day.</p>
-
-<p><i>17th.</i>—We are now among the thick settlements, and
-sugar plantations which line the river as we approach the
-city. I remained most of the night on deck, and ate an
-early breakfast of the usual diet. Afterwards Capt. Hudson
-had one of the big guns taken up, and fired a salute
-as we passed a pretty little village. We are now on the
-site of the battle ground, where General Jackson fought
-the English in 1814—continued our course up the river,
-and fired several times. At last, we were safely landed
-on the wharf in New Orleans. Upon my head there was
-no hat, having lost my last remnant overboard in the
-gulf. My pants, I had thrown away three days before,
-because (being composed of deerskin worn into tatters,)
-I despaired of making them look decent. A pair of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>
-drawers, rather the worse for wear, and an old overcoat,
-constituted my dress. If, to this description of my person
-I add that my hair, beard, and mustachios, had been
-left to vegetate undisturbed ever since I left Fort Leavenworth,
-then some idea may be formed of the accomplished
-soldiers of Col. Doniphan’s command.</p>
-
-<p><i>18th.</i>—In company with twelve others I got in an omnibus
-to search for some clothes and quarters; came three
-miles to a large clothing establishment, where our wants
-as to garments were soon supplied. The barber next
-exercised his skill, and it was with many an amusing jest
-and laugh that we regarded each others altered and improved
-appearance. Comfortable quarters were secured,
-and to-night I am reposing in a quiet boarding house.
-Here I feel that no homage of my soul is profound
-enough to render due adoration to that gracious Providence
-Who has protected and guided me, while marching
-over the wild plains, and through the mountain
-passes of Mexico.</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-<div class="verse">“Deserts in vain opposed our onward course;</div>
-<div class="indent">O’er hostile lands and wild untravelled wastes,</div>
-<div class="verse">Our journey we pursued, nor feared the floods,</div>
-<div class="indent">Through deep ravines that flow; dire banked with death;</div>
-<div class="verse">Nor mountains in whose jaws destruction grinned.</div>
-<div class="indent">Though floods rapacious roaring as they rolled,</div>
-<div class="verse">And mountains huge and rough were circled round</div>
-<div class="indent">By roving bands of restless savage foes.”</div>
-</div></div>
-
-<p><i>22nd.</i>—On Sunday last I went to the M. E. Church
-and listened to an excellent sermon. I was kindly invited
-by a stranger, who introduced himself to me, to
-dine and spend the evening with him. I complied with
-his request and was pleasantly entertained. After tea I
-returned to my boarding house, which is kept by a Mr.
-Wren, and whose charge is moderate, viz. $4 per week.
-On my first introduction here I committed a blunder, the
-thought of which has frequently caused me to smile. It
-shows the contrast between a camp life and the more
-polished proceedings of life in the city. When I was
-called to the first meal, I seated myself at the table in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>
-presence of my hostess, and commenced operations as I
-supposed in a manner the most polite and refined. Casting
-a glance at the lady I observed that she was eyeing
-me with a curious interest. The smile that played upon
-her lip told me that she was amused at some awkwardness
-of mine or some oddity in my appearance. And
-what was my surprise when I found that I had jerked
-my old knife from my pocket and was cutting my meat
-placed upon my bread in my usual way. The habit had
-been fixed upon me, and notwithstanding the neat
-arrangements of the table I could not resist the propensity
-to indulge in my camp customs.</p>
-
-<p><i>26th.</i>—On board the steamer Louisville bound for
-Cincinnati. The boat is crowded, but a mattress on
-which to lie is a luxury. A few hours ago, I parted with
-many of my fellow soldiers and friends, with feelings
-which it is impossible for me to describe. I am not in a
-situation to continue with the regiment until it reaches its
-final destination. My mouth is so sore that the least
-effort to masticate my food is very painful, and I cannot
-eat, now that I have before me all the luxuries of life;
-and even if I could it would be improper for me to do so,
-on account of a long continued diarrhœa and pain in my
-breast and side. I feel that I am greatly changed when I
-compare the present with the time when I last glided
-over this beautiful stream. Then so full of health and
-anticipations of pleasures and happiness, now, a sick
-soldier—a mere skeleton of a man, bronzed by the burning
-rays of a Mexican sun, and worn down by the prolonged
-fatigue of travelling, watching and toil. I regret
-very much that I cannot go to St. Louis, as requested
-by Col. Doniphan, where an enthusiastic reception is
-awaiting him. To express myself in <i>measured terms</i>
-about our Commander, would not be expressive of my
-feelings, and I feel how utterly incompetent I am to utter
-his eulogy. The man who can familiarise himself with
-the poorest private, by some kind word, or ride among the
-troops, and make us forget that we were hungry or thirsty
-by some pleasant converse, in our long and toilsome
-march;—the man who can forget his own personal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>
-safety in the hour of danger, and rise superior to every
-embarrassment—who can be prepared for every emergency,
-by superior skill in the tactics of war—as well as
-a refined sense of honor, and an open suavity of manner,
-not only leading captive the hearts of his entire command,
-but thousands of the hostile foe—such a man is a treasure
-to society, an honor to his country. And, such a
-man, is the brave Doniphan. It was with the feelings
-of a brother or a friend to whom I owed many obligations,
-that I grasped the hand of this great man, who
-kindly wished me a safe return to my family.</p>
-
-<p><i>27th.</i>—Our noble steamer has made good headway up
-the river, passed Baton Rouge, and at nine o’clock at
-night came in sight of Natchez.</p>
-
-<p><i>28th.</i>—Passed the Grand Gulf at 10, and at 2 got to
-Vicksburg. The pleasure of feasting my eyes on scenes
-so lovely, and which are presented by a trip to the
-“Father of Waters,” compensates for any little inconvenience
-arising from our crowded state.</p>
-
-<p><i>30th.</i>—At this time we are near Memphis. There is
-some excitement on board. A man laboring under the
-effects of mania potu is quite crazy, and has attempted
-several times to jump overboard. Just now he entered
-the ladies’ cabin and struck his wife; one of our officers
-interfered, and soon placed him on his back. But a further
-attempt to kill his child made it necessary to secure
-him. With several others I entered the ladies’ cabin,
-and helped to tie this <i>gentleman</i>. He made much useless
-resistance.</p>
-
-<p><i>July 1st.</i>—Slept but little—the surrounding bustle
-and noises mingled strangely with dreamy anticipations of
-soon receiving the cordial welcome of friends, that I
-fondly think that are eagerly awaiting me in my native
-home.</p>
-
-<p><i>West River, July 10th.</i>—Let no brave soldier say he
-cannot shed tears of joy, when clasped in the arms of
-his aged, widowed mother, after an absence of nearly
-two years, in which he has encountered the perils of
-both land and sea—travelling nearly 6000 miles, 2200
-being through the heart of an enemy’s country, and
-witnessing death in every shape and feature.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>It were an endless task to attempt any thing like a
-minute description of that part of Mexico through which
-we travelled. Our route lay for the most part, on the
-Rio Grande del Norte, whose head waters rise in the
-Green Mountains, several hundred miles above Santa
-Fe. It forms the western boundary of Texas, and can
-be easily forded at almost any point above El Paso. In
-the dry season it is extremely low, and can be of very
-little importance for navigation, except near its mouth,
-which flows into the Gulf of Mexico. It is thought this
-river has a course of from 15 to 1800 miles. The country
-is elevated: being traversed by a range of mountains
-extending far to the northward. Among the inhabitants,
-I saw every shade of complexion, from a dark swarthy,
-or yellow, to the palest white. But few are handsome
-among the ladies; and this is principally to be attributed
-to their great love of coloring the skin with red paint.
-The mountaineers are mostly poor, and almost universally
-destitute of every thing beyond the bare necessaries of
-life. Their flocks and herds constitute their principal
-riches, and their implements of husbandry are all of the
-most simple character. Their ploughing such as it is—is
-effected by a wooden plough, to which is attached two
-or four oxen, and the wheat is slightly covered over,
-having been previously sown on the hard ground. There
-are some fertile valleys in this mountainous range, but
-the poor simple inhabitants have very little idea of taking
-advantage of the natural resources of their country.
-After we left Chihuahua, fields of cotton and corn, interspersed
-at intervals with the sugar cane, presented themselves.
-The ranchos are always about a day’s journey
-apart, and the whole aspect of nature in these delightful
-spots, is one of the most inviting that can be imagined, as
-a field of operation, for the industry and art of man. The
-soil here is fertile, and what is generally termed bottom land;
-and with proper culture would be made as productive as
-any of our western lands, as the climate is more genial.
-They grow only a few vegetables, of which the red pepper
-appears to be a favorite, these they string and hang
-on the outsides of their houses so thick that on approaching<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>
-I frequently thought I should see a painted dwelling,
-but was to see only a miserable dirty hut. The mines
-of Mexico afford her principal wealth, but of this the
-poorer classes obtain but little, they are kept in ignorance
-and degradation by a government which has borne
-the name of Republican, but which every one who
-sojourns in that country must soon discover to be a
-mockery, for the mass of the people are subject alone to
-the will of the Roman clergy, and are not free to act.
-There is no slave in any of our Southern States whose
-situation they have not reason to envy. The women are
-more degraded if possible than the men, and more slovenly
-in their appearance, and while this is the case in any
-country the morals of the people must remain at a low
-grade. Since my return, I have heard of the enthusiastic
-reception of Col. Doniphan at St. Louis, an account
-of which I annex as published in the Baltimore American.
-Our business was not, however, to see all that was
-worth seeing, but to hurry on to the place we started
-for and when arrived at that to make arrangements to
-hurry on again.</p>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span></p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak">COL. DONIPHAN’S MARCH.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">At</span> the recent reception of the Missouri volunteers under
-Col. Doniphan at St. Louis, the address of welcome
-was delivered by Mr. Senator Benton. The speech is
-characteristic—exhibiting that clear and graphic narrative
-and those strong and concentrated expressions for
-which the Senator is remarkable.</p>
-
-<p>The orator gave an outline of the long march of this
-gallant regiment—first, a thousand miles to New Mexico,
-which became a starting point of a new departure.
-Then Chihuahua was aimed at—Chihuahua, a rich and
-populous city of nearly thirty thousand souls, the seat of
-the government of the state of that name, and formerly
-the residence of the Captains General of the Internal
-Provinces under the vice-regal government. In advancing
-towards Chihuahua the adventurous regiment encountered
-incredible hardships. They passed over the
-desert called <i>el jornada de los muertos</i>—the journey of
-the dead—an arid plain of ninety miles strewed with the
-bones of animals perished of hunger and thirst and
-marked by continual mementos of men who had fallen
-victims to the perilous way. They fought the enemy
-at the Bracito, and gained a decisive victory although
-opposed by superior numbers strong in cavalry and artillery.
-Again at Sacramento the intrepid band fought
-and conquered a vastly superior force. Mr. Benton calls
-that victory “one of the military marvels of the age.” At
-length Chihuahua is reached and taken; and there the bold
-adventurers must pause to determine which way next they
-shall direct their steps. They had occupied a city about
-as far from St. Louis as Moscow is from Paris. Let
-Col. Benton’s graphic narrative be heard:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span>“Chihuahua gained, it became, like Santa Fe, not the
-terminating point of a long expedition, but the beginning
-point of a new one. Gen. Taylor was somewhere—no
-one knew exactly where—but some seven or eight
-hundred miles towards the other side of Mexico. You
-had heard that he had been defeated—that <i>Buena Vista</i> had
-not been a <i>good prospect</i> to him. Like good Americans
-you did not believe a word of it; but like good soldiers,
-you thought it best to go and see. A volunteer party
-of fourteen, headed by Collins of Boonville, undertake to
-penetrate to Saltillo, and to bring you information of his
-condition. They set out. Amidst innumerable dangers
-they accomplish their purpose; and return. You march.
-A vanguard of one hundred men, led by Lieut. Colonel
-Mitchell, led the way. Then came the main body, (if
-the name is not a burlesque on such a handful,) commanded
-by Col. Doniphan himself.</p>
-
-<p>“The whole table land of Mexico, in all its breadth,
-from west to east, was to be traversed. A numerous
-and hostile population in towns—treacherous Cumanches
-in the mountains—were to be passed. Every thing
-was to be self-provided—provisions, transportation,
-fresh horses for remounts, and even the means of victory—and
-all without a military chest, or even an empty box,
-in which government gold had ever reposed. All
-was accomplished. Mexican towns were passed, in order
-and quiet: plundering Cumanches were punished:
-means were obtained from traders to liquidate indispensable
-contributions: and the wants that could not be supplied,
-were endured like soldiers of veteran service.</p>
-
-<p>“I say the Cumanches were punished. And here presents
-itself an episode of a novel, extraordinary, and romantic
-kind—Americans chastising savages for plundering
-people who they themselves came to conquer, and
-forcing the restitution of captives and of plundered property.
-A strange story this to tell in Europe, where
-back-woods character, western character, is not yet completely
-known. But to the facts. In the muskeet forest
-of the <i>Bolson de Mapimi</i>, and in the sierras around the
-beautiful town and fertile district of Parras, and in all the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span>
-open country for hundreds of miles round about, the savage
-Cumanches have held dominion ever since the usurper
-Santa Anna disarmed the people; and sally forth from their
-fastnesses to slaughter men, plunder cattle, and carry off
-women and children. An exploit of this kind had just
-been performed on the line of the Missourians’ march,
-not far from Parras, and an advanced party chanced to
-be in that town at the time the news of the depredation
-arrived there. It was only fifteen strong. Moved by
-gratitude for the kind attentions of the people, especially
-the women, to the sick of General Wool’s command,
-necessarily left in Parras, and unwilling to be outdone
-by enemies in generosity, the heroic fifteen, upon the
-spot, volunteered to go back, hunt out the depredators,
-and punish them, without regard to numbers. A grateful
-Mexican became their guide. On their way they fell
-in with fifteen more of their comrades; and, in short
-time, seventeen Cumanches killed out of sixty-five,
-eighteen captives restored to their families, and three
-hundred and fifty head of cattle recovered for their owners,
-was the fruit of this sudden and romantic episode.</p>
-
-<p>“Such noble conduct was not without its effect on the
-minds of the astonished Mexicans. An official document
-from the Prefect of the place to Captain Reid, leader
-of this detachment, attests the verity of the fact, and the
-gratitude of the Mexicans; and constitutes a trophy of
-a new kind in the annals of war. Here it is in the original
-Spanish, and I will read it off in English.</p>
-
-<p>“It is officially dated from the Prefecture of the Department
-of Parras, signed by the Prefect Jose Ignacio
-Arrabe, and addressed to Capt. Reid, the 18th of May,
-and says:</p>
-
-<p>“‘At the first notice that the barbarians, after killing
-many, and taking captives, were returning to their
-haunts, you generously and bravely offered, with fifteen
-of your subordinates, to fight them on their crossing by
-the Pozo, executing this enterprise with celerity, address
-and bravely worthy of all eulogy, and worthy of the brilliant
-issue which all celebrate. You recovered many animals
-and much plundered property; and eighteen captives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>
-were restored to liberty and to social enjoyments, their
-souls overflowing with a lively sentiment of joy and
-gratitude, which all the inhabitants of this town equally
-breathe, in favor of their generous deliverers and their
-valiant chief. The half of the Indians killed in the combat,
-and those which fly wounded, do not calm the pain
-which all feel for the wound which your excellency received
-defending christians and civilized beings against
-the rage and brutality of savages. All desire the speedy
-re-establishment of your health; and although they know
-that in your own noble soul will be found the best reward
-of your conduct, they desire also to address you the expression
-of their gratitude and high esteem. I am honored in
-being the organ of the public sentiment, and pray you to
-accept it, with the assurance of my most distinguished
-esteem.</p>
-
-<p>“‘God and Liberty!’”</p>
-
-<p>“This is a trophy of a new kind in war, won by thirty
-Missourians, and worthy to be held up to the admiration
-of christendom.”</p>
-
-<p>The regiment arrived at Gen Taylor’s camp at Monterey,
-and reported themselves ready for duty. They
-were prepared to go with the hero of Buena Vista to San
-Luis Potosi, or Zacatecas, or the city of Mexico. They
-regarded not their fatigues nor the approaching expiration
-of their term of service. “But unhappily,” says Mr.
-Benton, “the conqueror of Palo Alto Resaca de la Palma,
-Monterey and Buena Vista, was not exactly in the condition
-that the Lieutenant General, might have been,
-intended him to be. He was not at the head of 20,000
-men! he was not at the head of any thousands that
-would enable him to march! and had to decline the
-proffered service. Thus the long marched and well
-fought volunteers—the rough, the ready, and the ragged—had
-to turn their faces towards home, still more than
-two thousand miles distant.”</p>
-
-<p>The last nine hundred miles of the land march from
-Chihuahua to Matamoras was made in forty-five days
-with seventeen pieces of artillery, eleven of which had
-been taken from the enemy. During all their long march<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>
-this regiment of hardy soldiers received from the Government
-not a dollar of pay; they furnished for the most part
-their own supplies and forage and clothing, and yet
-brought back nearly their whole number. “You marched
-farther than the farthest,” says Mr. Benton, “you
-have fought as well as the best, left order and quiet in
-your train, and cost less money than any.”</p>
-
-<p>Col. Doniphan made an eloquent address in reply to
-the oration of welcome, and towards the close of it, he
-turned to his men, the companions of his toils and dangers,
-and said:</p>
-
-<p>“You have endured much toil and hardship. It is now
-about to terminate. You have arrived once more in the
-land of civilized society, and again we are citizens mingling
-with our fellow-citizens. Your lot has been a hard
-one in many respects.</p>
-
-<p>“Before reaching New Mexico, by two hundred
-miles, you were on half rations, and never afterwards,
-for a single day, during our long and arduous march to
-Saltillo, did you receive full rations. Yet all this you
-have borne, and you have borne it with fortitude. The
-order which you received to march in Major Gilpin’s
-command, with a large column, over the Sierra Madre,
-covered with perpetual snow—proceeding on your march
-on shortened allowance, without tents or transportation,
-and many other comforts, because the Government was
-unable to furnish them; yet you bore it all, and were
-ready to resume your march in two days on the city of
-Chihuahua. You have travelled over five states of Mexico,
-and five very large ones, in point of territory.</p>
-
-<p>“Perhaps the citizens of St. Louis do not know what a
-Bonava is, but I will answer for every man in my command,
-knowing what they are. I may assure you, had
-you crossed them, you too, would have known what
-they are. The shortest one that we crossed was fifty
-miles and one ninety-five miles, which we crossed in
-three days in December, without wood, without water,
-without tents, at an elevation of 7000 feet above the
-Atlantic ocean. In sending expresses to the distance
-of 600 miles, when I was unable to furnish them with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span>
-the means of carrying provision and other comforts
-with them over immense sand prairies covered with
-snow, I have never made a detail, but all were volunteers,
-or when I have sent out parties for the purpose of
-watching the enemy who have had to starve for days,
-I never made a detail in this column, but all were volunteers,
-and I am proud to say it.”</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<div class="transnote">
-<p class="ph1">TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:</p>
-
-<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.</p>
-
-<p>Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized.</p>
-
-<p>Archaic or variant spelling has been retained.</p>
-</div></div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON, A PRIVATE SOLDIER IN THE CAMPAIGN OF NEW AND OLD MEXICO ***</div>
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