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diff --git a/old/68587-0.txt b/old/68587-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7889250..0000000 --- a/old/68587-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3638 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of William H. Richardson, a -private soldier in the campaign of New and Old Mexico, by William H. -Richardson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Journal of William H. Richardson, a private soldier in the - campaign of New and Old Mexico - Under the command of Colonel Doniphan of Missouri - -Author: William H. Richardson - -Release Date: July 22, 2022 [eBook #68587] - -Language: English - -Produced by: David E. Brown and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF WILLIAM H. -RICHARDSON, A PRIVATE SOLDIER IN THE CAMPAIGN OF NEW AND OLD -MEXICO *** - - -[Illustration: MARCHING THROUGH A JORNADA. Page 45.] - - - - - JOURNAL - OF - WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON, - A PRIVATE SOLDIER - IN THE CAMPAIGN OF - New and Old Mexico, - UNDER THE COMMAND OF - COLONEL DONIPHAN - OF MISSOURI. - - SECOND EDITION. - - BALTIMORE: - JOHN W. WOODS, PRINTER. - - 1848. - - - - - Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1848, by - WILLIAM H. RICHARDSON, in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of - Maryland. - - - - -JOURNAL. - - -I left my home on West River, Anne Arundel County, Md., the 11th -November, 1845, for a southern tour, and after visiting the principal -places of the south and west, inspecting the country, and meeting -with adventures familiar to all who travel, I found myself, the -following spring, located permanently a few miles from Carrollton, -Carroll County, Missouri, boarding in the family of Judge Rea, a -clever gentlemanly man. Here I formed numerous acquaintances, among -them, an old Capt. Markle, who informed me of his intention to visit -California, and depicted in glowing terms the pleasure of travelling -in new countries, &c. In the meantime, a company of mounted volunteers -was being formed in the neighborhood, under Capt. Williams, in which -many young men whom I knew, had enlisted. This, together with the -enthusiasm which prevailed at a public meeting on the 4th of July, -(when the ladies of Carrollton presented the company a beautiful flag, -and many speeches were made)--caused me to decide and join the company. -I immediately set about preparing--bought my regimentals, canteen, -saddlebags, also some books and a writing apparatus for convenience in -noting down the occurrences of each day, thinking it probable, should -I live to return, it might be a source of amusement to my friends in -Maryland. - -_August 4th, 1846._--This morning we started for Fort Leavenworth. Many -of my friends came to take breakfast with me at Squire Dorr’s. We met -our Captain at Carrollton, where a public dinner was given. The company -formed and marched to the table in order. In the evening we mounted -our fine horses and proceeded out of town. We passed the Prairie, 30 -miles wide, and rode as far as the residence of Dr. Arnold. There were -fifteen of us in company, separated from the rest, and all in search of -quarters. - -Having to water our horses, the Doctor directed us where to go. The -way was plainly pointed out, but to our astonishment, we all got lost -in the timber. We rode till very late, and might have been put to -great inconvenience, had we not met with a servant who set us right. -We returned to the Doctor’s to muse on our mishap and enjoy more -hospitality. An ominous beginning for a soldier’s life. - -_5th._--Started this morning in company with the Doctor and his lady, -who went with us eight miles to Lexington, and thence to Richmond, -where we arrived at 4 o’clock. A few miles further on we encamped. I -rode all this day without my dinner. Having had opportunity to become -better acquainted with my Captain and other officers, I find them very -clever and kind. - -_6th._--I discovered this morning that my horse was lame from tightness -of his shoes. Went to town to a blacksmith who re-shod him. The company -could not wait for me, and I travelled alone through a beautiful forest -of sugar trees. Passed Elke Horn, and rode until within six miles of -Liberty. Here I found our baggage team had given out. Our Captain had -gone ahead with the company, and left the second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith, -in charge. I discovered Lieutenant Smith to be a man of very tender -feelings. Several of our company were taken with chills to-night, which -is rather discouraging. - -_7th._--At day-light this morning our train was under way, arrived in -town to breakfast, after which our Captain marched us all over the -city. It is a beautiful inland place of 1000 inhabitants. Fifteen miles -further on, we met our first Lieutenant, just from the Fort. He told us -to hurry on and get mustered into service before the other companies -should crowd in. We hurried accordingly and reached Platt City at -sunset. I was fatigued and hungry, and went into the hotel to get my -supper, when I came out, I found our third Lieutenant had come up with -the rest of the men, and were ready to start for the ferry. I went on -with them. We arrived at the ferry, opposite Fort Leavenworth, about 12 -o’clock at night. I went in search of something for my horse. There was -a widow lady living near, to whom I applied, and she very pleasantly -told me “to go to the crib and help myself.” I went, fed my horse, and -spent the rest of the night on the unhusked ears in the crib, where I -slept soundly. - -_8th._--Rose early and went in search of my Captain. Found him, with -many others, between some fallen trees, wrapped up in their blankets, -fast asleep on the sand. We soon prepared for crossing the river, -which I felt to be the bidding adieu to friends and home, and almost -civilization itself. I was the only one who had taken refreshment. It -was fortunate for me that I had made a second visit to the widow and -obtained a good breakfast. We were soon all safely over the ferry, 85 -in number, men of all grades and dispositions, some very facetious, -and others reserved and thoughtful. We were all huddled together, and -ordered to form in double file, to proceed two miles from the Fort -to erect our tents. We had to wait some time for the wagons which -contained our provisions, consisting of mess pork, sugar, coffee, &c. -The head of each mess--six in number, had to apply to the Sergeant for -the necessary supplies. Having been appointed to the charge of my mess, -I went up, took my share, and helped the men to theirs. The first meal -I tasted in the Indian territory was supper, and such a supper! It was -composed of hard water crackers and mess pork, which would cut five -inches through the ribs. I boiled my pork for nearly two hours, and -found it still so tough that it was harder labor than I had been at all -day to eat it. Necessity is the mother of invention, and I fell upon -an expedient by which to despatch it, I took it out, stewed and fried -it. But it was yet spongy and stuck in my teeth. I made out, however, -with the assistance of a keen appetite; and being very tired, I laid -myself down on my blanket in the tent. I had not lain many minutes when -our Orderly came by, calling upon the men to form a line. We had much -rather slept, but to obey was our duty, and we were soon in the line. -We were then drilled by a young officer from the Fort. After drill, -the officers commenced counting us off from right to left, and every -fourth man had to stand guard. - -I was taken as one of the fourth men and placed with eleven others at -No. 1, where I had to walk my post two hours. It was quite long enough -for a beginning, and I resigned the post with pleasure when the time -expired. At 12 o’clock the relief guard put a man in my place, and I -went rejoicing to my rest. - -_Sunday, 9th._--This morning I had to get breakfast for the first -time in my life; I was perfectly green at the business, but it had -to be done. I filled the kettle with water, browned my coffee, fried -the pork, &c. I went on very well until by an unlucky mishap I upset -the kettle, and put out the fire. Nothing daunted by the misfortune, -I entered upon another trial and was more successful. We paraded -immediately after breakfast, and prepared to go to the Fort, where we -had the honor of being mustered into service by our Colonel. He called -our names, and as each passed before him he was asked his age, and as -many other questions as would afford a pretty good description of his -person and history of his life. The Articles of War were then read and -we formed a line and returned to camp. The roll was called soon after, -and all that were not present, had to keep guard. So much for playing -truant on an occasion of so much importance. I was fortunate enough to -be present and escaped the infliction. - -_12th._--The past two or three days were employed in strict attention -to the duties of a soldier, such as cooking, drilling, &c. To-day, Col. -Price assembled the whole regiment at the Fort, to have an appraisement -of horses, saddles, &c. In the afternoon I rode back to the encampment -on a large bag of beef in the hot sun. A severe headache was my -travelling companion. - -_14th._--Yesterday and to-day we had a terrible job, breaking mules -to the wagons. It is difficult to muster these stubborn animals into -service. I, with a fellow soldier, was detained from the Fort till a -late hour. We were employed in the novel pursuit of pulling two of -the mules by main force through the hazel bushes two miles. Only think -of it! Two of Uncle Sam’s worthies pulling a jackass apiece two miles -through the bushes. While at the Fort I called on the minister, who -was very kind and affectionate in his conversation and manners. He -presented me a Testament, Prayer Book, and a bundle of Tracts--at night -we threw copies into each tent, and then sung hymns until it was time -to retire. - -_15th._--This was our washing day. I went with the rest of the b’hoys, -to the branch, where we kindled three large fires, and put up our camp -kettles to boil the clothes. I never boiled any before, and I felt -pretty much as I did when I began to cook breakfast. I went to work -awkwardly enough, as my scalded hands bore witness. But a man can -even wash his clothes when he is obliged to do it, the opinions of -the ladies to the contrary notwithstanding. In the evening we ceased -our labors as washers of clothes and went into the branch and washed -ourselves. After bathing we returned to camp quite refreshed. - -_Sunday, 16th._--This morning I thought I would hear the Missionary -preach--and with several others, started for the purpose. Just -before we got to the village, an Indian informed us there would be -no preaching that day. We were greatly disappointed, and turned to -wander about awhile and survey the country around. It was wild and -picturesque, and the sight of it was gratifying. We met a number -of Indians. Their language and gesture were very strange, and they -presented a most outlandish appearance. Many of them came into our camp -with a variety of things to sell. When we returned, our camp was nearly -deserted. The men had gone to the Fort for equipments to commence our -march. We hurried on, but only to be disappointed again. Too many -companies were in before us. We went back to the camp, and spent the -day quietly. - -_18th._--Every man was well fitted out with a musket and fifteen -cartridges, a load of guns having been brought from the Fort. I have -now become accustomed to implicit obedience to orders--going and -returning on errands to the Fort--breaking mules, looking for strayed -horses, cooking breakfast, washing clothes, &c. At night it rained -hard, and while I tried to compose myself to sleep, I felt the shower -dripping in my face. - -_20th._--The important morning had now arrived. It was the morning on -which we were to “strike our tents, and march away” for California. -All was bustle and excitement, and we poor privates had to load the -wagons with provisions for our long march. It fell to my lot as usual, -to handle the bacon, pork, &c. And yet another trial awaited me: we had -not travelled more than a mile, when we came to a deep slough or pond, -through which I had to guide a mule. It was the first time I had the -honor of leading a mule in gears. I had to dismount and wade through -thick mud up to my waist. I had rather carried the mule on my back over -a better road. What made the matter worse, I had my new clothes on, -and they were almost ruined by the adventure. On stopping to encamp, a -messmate kindly poured on water, while I washed the mud off, as well -as I could, and laid down in my wet garments, very weary with my day’s -journey. - -_21st._--We are now fairly in the Indian country. The place assigned -by the Government for the future residence of the tribes who have -emigrated from the States. Here we found the prairies covered with -grass--a seasonable supply for our horses, and a drove of ninety-five -beeves which we had brought out for present use. A strong guard was -stationed around the encampment, at night, as roving bands of Indians -were lurking around us, ready to seize any thing they could lay their -hands on. We had travelled 12 miles when our Captain thought it best to -encamp for the night, as we found a little wood. The want of timber is -a great defect in this otherwise beautiful country. - -_22nd._--We started this morning at 8 o’clock, and travelled 15 -miles through a lovely region, when we came to a settlement of the -Delaware Indians. Their houses and plantations bear evident marks of -civilization. In company with our first Lieutenant, I called at a -house, in the door of which sat two squaws making moccasons. Stretched -on a bench near by, lay an Indian fast asleep. He was a man of most -powerful dimensions, at least six feet four, and fat withal. By his -side rested a club full of notches. We did not care to disturb his -repose, for we had slight misgivings that a notch or two more in that -fatal war club, might record the finale of our own history. We left -him to his slumber and hastened to the river where we found several -companies of our companions buying and selling among the squaws. -Whiskey was the principal commodity, and a number of Indians were so -much intoxicated that they could hardly tell a tree from a moccason. -The ferry is kept by the Indians. The Kansas river at this place is a -bold stream, it was, nevertheless, safely passed by all, using boats -only for our wagons; about sunset all landed and we encamped about a -mile from the river. - -_Sunday, 23d._--Again we started on our journey. After the first ten -miles of a broken country, some high hills appeared. They were very -difficult of ascent, and we had much trouble with our teams. In two -places we had to put our shoulders to the wheels. Orders were given -that every man should secure what wood he could find, and we commenced -packing it before us, on our horses. A picturesque scene we must have -presented, each man with his load of wood before him on his horse. -While riding in this way we overtook Lieutenant Col. Mitchell. - -_24th._--After passing a few clumps of trees, an immense prairie spread -out before us, extending as far as the eye could reach. At 12 o’clock -we came to a branch and encamped. The water here is in standing pools, -and before drinking or making coffee, we were obliged to strain it -through our handkerchiefs. While thus engaged, two Indians of the Sac -Tribe, made their appearance. They were elegantly mounted, but painted -and tattooed in a frightful manner. They are smaller in stature than -the Delawares, and at war with them. They called at our camp as a -matter of curiosity. One of my mess, Levi Flowers, received a severe -kick in his face from a horse which nearly killed him. His face was -very much swollen. - -_25th._--The companies are now all united--having overtaken each other -at different places. Our force was 1200 strong. We travelled all day in -sight of trees like little dots on the horizon. At the end of our day’s -march we hoped to find water, _good_ water, which our poor fellows -needed after a long hot march, with nothing to protect their heads from -the rays of the sun but small glazed caps. The goal was reached. We -rested beneath the shade of a small skirt of woods. - -_26th._--As usual, 8 o’clock found us ready to start. After a march -of 14 miles, we encamped on Beaver Creek. We killed a beef--and the -soldiers busied themselves in cooking supper. Not having conveniences -of home at hand, we dispensed with our dinner daily, and satisfied -ourselves with eating morning and night. Our Captain is a good sort -of a man and will no doubt do the best he can for us. And now while -speaking of the Captain I will say a word or two about our Lieutenants. -Our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, is nearly always in a good humor. He -is large and somewhat corpulent--enjoys a laugh very much. He weighs -220_lbs._ net. Our second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith, is of the middle size, -very facetious, and always ready to accommodate. Our third Lieutenant, -Mr. Rock, was formerly Captain of Militia, but volunteering to go with -the army to California, we elected him third Lieutenant. He is a little -over the middle size, and very reserved and stately. - -_27th._--After travelling twelve miles we reached the encampment of -the Marion company, where we found a poor fellow who was accidentally -shot last night, by a revolving pistol. Two men are left to take care -of him. It is thought he cannot survive. Poor fellow! His fate is a sad -one. Pursuing our journey, we passed Beaver Creek, and after travelling -18 miles, came to the Big John River, where we encamped for the night. - -[Illustration: A CAMP WASHING DAY.] - -_28th._--The Captain told us this morning that we should stop here for -a day or two to rest ourselves. And now began a most ludicrous scene. -Every camp kettle and other vessel that would hold water was brought -in requisition, and the whole regiment commenced washing their clothes. -To me it was a most singular sight. While rubbing away at our clothes -a rumor reached us that we were on the route to Santa Fe, instead of -California. This was news, and what with washing and what with talking -we were kept pretty busy. On the route to Santa Fe, though we entered -the journey for California. But alas! no matter where we are. We found -our trip was not a “pleasure excursion,” as many of our imaginations -had so often pictured. The two soldiers we left to-day have just come -in, after digging the grave of their poor comrade. - -_29th._--This morning we caught some black trout and cat fish in the -Big John. They were very fine. Col. Price had gone ahead, and at 12 -o’clock we struck our tents, passed Council Grove, and encamped at -2 o’clock a few miles further on, where there is a blacksmith shop, -established by the government. Here I left letters for my friends in -Maryland, to be carried back by the return mail to Fort Leavenworth. - -_Sunday, 30th._--Saw near the road, one of those singular mounds, of -which I have so often read. It towered beautifully to the height of 100 -feet. It may have been a mount of observation; it may be filled with -the bones of the red men of the forest. I have no time, however, to -speculate upon subjects so foreign from my present employment. At the -end of 8 miles, we came to Rock Creek, and 7 miles further we arrived -at Diamond Spring, where we halted for the night. - -_31st._--This morning I filled my canteen with the refreshing water -of Diamond Spring. At the spring I counted 45 wagons loaded with -provisions for the army. Yesterday we entered upon the far-famed -_plains_ at Rock Creek. The scenery presents a dull monotony, a vast -plain, almost level, bounded by the horizon and covered with a thin -sward and herbage. - -_September 1st._--Came to a place, called the “Lost Spring,” a most -singular curiosity. The stream rises suddenly out of the ground, and -after rushing over the sand a few yards, as suddenly sinks, and is no -more seen. - -_2nd._--To-day we are at the Cotton Wood Fork. It takes its name from -a large cluster of cotton trees, the first I had seen after leaving -Diamond Spring. There is a good stream of water here, and we enjoyed -the blessing of a fine shower of rain. A little misunderstanding took -place among the officers about starting. Some of them were too slow -in their movements and caused our Captain to collect his men and make -a speech. Several of the men were disgusted and become uproarious. A -march of eight miles, however, to Turkey Creek, settled the question, -and all appeared in pretty good humor. Three miles further on, we -came to 2nd Turkey Creek, nine miles beyond to 3rd Turkey Creek and -encamped. Turkey Creeks are plenty in this vicinity. How we would have -rejoiced if the turkeys had been as plenty as the titles of the streams -indicated. Third Turkey Creek is a lovely stream, running through the -prairie. Here we wanted wood to cook with. As yet we had not seen any -game with the exception of two rabbits, caught by our men. They were of -a novel species, almost white, with long black ears, and as large as a -grey fox. - -_3rd._--About 12 o’clock to-day we came in sight of timber. Passed the -4th Turkey Creek, and after travelling 18 miles, encamped on the banks -of the little Arkansas, which at some seasons is a bold stream, with -tremendous cliffs that can be seen at a long distance. - -_4th._--We are all huddled together in our tents, in consequence of a -heavy storm of wind and rain, which came on last night. Some of the -tents blew down, and most of the company were in a bad fix. Fires were -necessary to keep us warm. We left at 8 o’clock, and after travelling -10 miles, came to Owl Creek. Five miles from Owl Creek we reached Cow -Creek, where we encamped. On the left we could see cliffs and timber at -a great distance, and some small white spots like sand hills. On the -right, nothing but a vast prairie. Just before we arrived at the Cow -Creek an antelope was started. Our boys gave chase and fired several -times, but they missed him and he finally escaped. They must shoot -better in fight with the enemy. We had scarcely fixed up our tents, -when the news came that a buffalo was in sight. In an instant, men on -horseback, fully armed, were in pursuit from every direction. He was -less fortunate than the antelope. The men had improved a little and -they overtook their game after a considerable chase, during which they -fired fifty times. They killed him at last and brought some of the -flesh to the camp. It was of very little use, for with all our cooking, -it was too tough to eat. He was a bull at least 20 years old. We had -better let the old patriarch run. - -_Arkansas Bend, Saturday, 6th._--Here we stopped last night, after -a most exciting day. Herds of buffalo were seen scattered over the -plains. The best hunters were picked out to secure as many as possible. -The chase was a fine one, 13 were killed by the different companies. I -strolled away from camp alone, to one of those mysterious mounds, which -occur so frequently to the traveller among these wilds. On ascending -it, I enjoyed a most magnificent prospect. It has the appearance of a -Fort, but when and for what purpose erected will long remain a matter -of uncertainty. I lingered so long that on my return I found that my -company had gone forward, but I soon overtook them. To-day we come to -Walnut Creek, 6 miles from the mound. I felt stupid and sick; as I was -placed on guard last night, on the banks of the Arkansas. I was all -alone in the deep midnight, and I sat three long hours, with my musket; -looking up and down the stream. I could see a great distance, as the -sand on the shore is very white. - -_7th._--We were preparing to take a buffalo chase, when word -was brought that the whole command must be moving. We were much -disappointed, for we expected fine sport in the chase. On our route -to-day, we passed Ash Creek, and five miles on came to Pawnee Fork. We -saw herds of buffalo, and surrounded one, but they made a break towards -the road and crossed among the teams. They did no damage, however, nor -was much damage done to them. I rode on briskly to overtake a friend, -when my horse trod in a hole made by prairie dogs, (a small animal and -very numerous here,) and fell with me. I received no injury except -a little skin rubbed off my knee. On remounting, my attention was -arrested by a horse running at full speed, and dragging something on -the ground. When he came closer, I discovered it to be a man whom his -horse had thrown. The frightened animal stopped a little ahead of me -and I rode up, expecting to see a dead man, but as soon as his foot was -extricated from the stirrup, to the surprise of all, he stood up, and -said that he was not much hurt. He said he regretted most of all the -loss of his clothes, which were torn in shreds from his body. Another -man belonging to our company, by the name of Redwine, had a severe -fall. He was taken in to camp nearly dead. Chase was made again after -buffalo, which appeared in thousands. Many antelopes also appeared, but -it requires the fleetest horses to overtake them. Before we encamped we -saw near the road side a little mound of stones, on one of which was -engraved the name of R. T. Ross. It was supposed to be the grave of a -man who was murdered by the Indians in 1840. He is resting in a lonely -spot. - -_8th._--We are now on the banks of the great Arkansas river, after -marching many miles through a barren and dreary looking country, almost -destitute of grass or herbage. Here there is some improvement in this -respect. A heavy rain caused our tents to leak, and drenched the poor -soldiers, so that they passed a very uncomfortable night. - -_9th._--Kept up the river ten miles. A few scattered cotton trees, and -cliffs, and sand banks are the only things to be seen. One of Col. -Mitchell’s men was near being killed to-day by an Indian. He had chased -a buffalo two miles from camp, when an arrow was shot, which pierced -his clothes; the poor fellow made all the haste he could to camp with -the arrow sticking in his pants. It was well it was not in his skin. - -_10th._--Last night as soon as we were all snugly fixed, and ready -for sleep, there arose a fearful storm of wind and rain, which gave -our tents and ourselves a good shaking. Some of the tents were blown -down, breaking in their fall the ridgepoles of others, and bringing -them down also. In our tent, four of us held on with all our might, for -nearly two hours, to keep it standing. To-day we continued our march, -travelling 15 miles, on the banks of the river. We saw a large flock of -wild geese and tried to get a shot, but without success. They were too -wild for us. - -_11th._--The weather was quite cold this morning, and there was so -dense a fog as to prevent us from seeing a hundred yards ahead. There -was an antelope killed to-day. The flesh tasted like mutton. We -encamped by the side of the river, and an opportunity was afforded us -of catching fish, which we accomplished by the novel mode of spearing -them with the bayonet. Several dozens were caught, and we found them -delicious. - -_12th._--Resumed our journey through the same scenery 12 miles--many -antelopes were seen in herds, and prairie dogs barked at us, in every -direction. - -_Sunday, 13th._--As we proceed, the country assumes a still more dreary -aspect, bare of verdure, and broken in ridges of sand. Our horses, -enfeebled by their long travel, have very little to subsist on. The men -too, for the past three days, have ceased to receive rations of sugar -and coffee. When we could not get these articles, we did as they do in -France--that is, without them. We had to fry our meat, and a few of us -entered upon the funny work of making soup out of pork, buffalo flesh, -and fish, boiled up together. It was a rare mess, but we pronounced it -first rate. - -_14th._--After passing over the last 15 miles to-day, we found -ourselves at a place called the crossing of the Arkansas. We were then -362 miles from Fort Leavenworth. Our course has been along the margin -of the river for 75 miles. At this place are steep bluffs difficult to -descend. There are multitudes of fish in the river, many of them were -killed by the horses’ feet in crossing. We caught several varieties by -spearing. A number of antelopes were killed here. - -_15th._--This morning I felt very dull from loss of rest. We had to -give considerable attention to the cattle, horses, &c., to prevent them -from straying. I and seven others were detailed to stand sentinel. I -was appointed to the second watch, and to be in readiness at the hour, -I spread my blanket down in the prairie to take a nap. In two hours I -was awakened, and instructed to arouse the Captain of the Watch at the -expiration of three hours more; having no means to measure the time but -by my own sad thoughts, and the weary hours being rather tardy, I too -soon obeyed the orders, and kept the last watch on duty five hours, to -the amusement of all. After breakfast I took a stroll over the sand -hills, and found about a dozen of our boys, inspecting the contents of -a large basket, something like a hamper in which the merchants pack -earthenware. It contained the skeleton of an Indian chief in a sitting -posture, wrapped in buffalo robes, with his arrows, belts, beads, -cooking utensils, &c. It had fallen from the limb of a tree, on which -it had been suspended. Several of the men picked up the beads, and one -named Waters carried the lower jaw and skull to camp, the latter he -said he intended “to make a soup gourd of.” - -_16th._--I took my seat quietly in the tent this morning and thought -I would rest, as we were to stay a day or two at this place. I was -presently surrounded by soldiers begging me to write a few lines for -them “to father, mother, wives, friends and homes.” I wrote _seven_ -letters without removing from a kneeling posture, and was kept busy -almost the whole day. - -_17th._--Our Captain told us to get ready to start at 10 o’clock -to-day, and as we were to cross a sandy desert 60 miles wide, much -water and provisions were to be packed. A number of us were kept busy -cleaning the salt from pork barrels in order to fill them with water. -Scarcely had we finished this hard job; when the news spread like -electricity “that the mail from Fort Leavenworth had come in.” I cannot -pretend to describe the scene that ensued. I met our Captain, who said -“the Sergeant had a letter for me”--with the most peculiar feelings I -seized it and saw the hand-writing of my loved sister in Maryland--my -home, now so many weary leagues away. The delight I experienced was -not unmingled, however, with the thought that perhaps at this very -spot, the entrance to a wild desert, I had bid adieu finally to all -I held dear. We travelled 22 miles, and as it was late at night when -we halted, we spread our blankets on the sand and slept soundly till -morning. - -_18th._--I rose by day-light and took a slice of bread and meat. We -started early and came 23 miles, where we found some water standing in -pools. We tried to erect the tents, but the wind was too high--had to -cook that night with _buffalo chips_; strange fuel even for soldiers to -use. - -_19th._--After marching 10 miles to-day, we came to the Cimarone -Springs--a sweet stream. Here we found grass enough for our poor -horses. It is truly an oasis in the _desert_. - -_Sunday, 20th._--We crossed an arm of the Cimarone, but the waters -were dried up--dug for water but found none. Went on 5 miles further, -dug again, and procured enough for ourselves and horses. In our route -of 25 miles we saw the ground encrusted with salt. A singular animal -attracted our notice. It was a horned frog, a great curiosity. Every -thing was involved in a thick cloud of dust. - -_21st._--One of the members of the Randolph Company, a gentleman by the -name of Jones, died last night of consumption. He took the trip for his -health, but to-day his remains were interred, not far from the camp, -with the honors of war. - -_22nd._--We still travelled on the Cimarone, though only at certain -places could we procure water. A deep sand retarded the progress of -the army. On arriving where we had to encamp we found 42 wagons, laden -with goods. They were the property of a Mr. Gentry, a trader who has -amassed great wealth, in merchandising between Independence, Santa Fe -and Chihuahua. He speaks the Spanish language, and had nearly a dozen -Spaniards in the caravan. - -_23d._--We had a considerable storm last night--and the hard rain made -it rather disagreeable, especially so to me, as I had to do the duty of -a sentinel in the first watch, with a wolf howling most dismally within -50 yards of me. I would have fired at him, but I had to obey orders and -not arouse the camp by a false alarm. We saw to-day the bones of 91 -mules, which perished in a snow-storm last winter. The bones were piled -by the road side. - -_24th._--Overtook another caravan--still passing up the Cimarone, whose -bed is through the sandy plain, at length we came to a hill from whence -we descried the Rocky Mountains, rising abruptly in the distance. In -our route we crossed a small spur. Mr. White our first Lieutenant, with -several others ascended one, which presented the appearance of frowning -rocky precipices. From its highest peaks, he brought down seashell, and -petrifactions of various kinds. We had great difficulty in procuring -buffalo chips. It was very amusing to see the boys in search of this -indispensable article, our only resource to cook with. - -_25th._--We reached “Cool Spring” to-day, and found refreshing and -delightful water, bursting from a solitary rock of enormous dimensions, -the sides of which are covered with the names of various travellers. -Our pleasant officer, Mr. White, called me up saying “he wished to -see my name on a spot he pointed out,”--so taking a hearty draught -from his canteen, which was just filled, I went up, and had scarcely -carved my name, to remain there a monument of my folly, I suppose, -when I discovered my horse making off with my accoutrements, canteen, -&c. Hurried down and started after the beast. After running a great -distance in the deep sand, I succeeded in capturing the runaway. -Nineteen miles further on we encamped in a deep ravine, among cliffs -and rocks, here a few cedar trees were found. They afforded a -seasonable supply of wood to cook with. The Rocky Mountains were in -sight all day. - -_26th._--After a slight breakfast of bread and meat, we left this -inhospitable place in disgust. It did not afford grass for our horses -to graze on. We proceeded 12 miles through a dreary waste, and had to -encamp at night in a place where there was no water. - -_27th._--I was awakened by the Sergeant of the Guard at 2 o’clock this -morning, it being my turn to stand sentinel of the morning watch. After -breakfast we went on 15 miles to Cotton Wood Creek. There we fixed up -our tents, but no forage being found for our half-starved animals, we -soon took them down again, and proceeded 5 miles on, to Rabbit Creek. -At this place there was plenty of grass and some tolerable scenery, but -we were in no condition to enjoy it; being late in the night we spread -our blankets on the prairie, and composed our wearied limbs to rest. - -_28th._--Our journey was still continued through a dry and sterile -land, where there is neither wood, water, nor grass; late in the -evening we came to a pool of water. It was cool and good, and we drank -of it freely. Our wagons did not come up till very late, and being -tired, we wrapped ourselves in our blankets and laid down to sleep -without our supper. We went supperless, not to bed--but to the sod. - -_October 1st._--The last two days of September we remained at a place -called Whetstone Creek, to rest. This Whetstone Creek is another oasis. -It was the source of great joy to ourselves and our mules and horses. -Our pastime was like the boy’s holiday whose mother allowed him to stay -at home from school to saw wood and bring water. Our resting spell was -a spell of hard work, and most industriously did we labor in cleansing -our arms for inspection by the Colonel. And we had to do a deal of -marching and countermarching. Indeed the parade lasted so long and with -so many manœuvres were we exercised, that the patience of officers and -men was worn to its extremity. It was nearly thread-bare. And then -came the orders for every man to see to his own provisions and water, -as another desert was to be traversed. So we go--changing from bad -to worse. To-day, after a march of ten miles, we reached the “Point -of Rocks”--a significant name. Late at night we encamped in a valley -between high mountains, where there was some grass, but no water. - -_2nd._--We still moved on over barren rocks and sand hills. We labored -hard all day to leave them behind us. The hope cheered us of soon -finding water, we realised it at the far-famed Red River. Our whole -force encamped on its banks about night-fall. The waters of this -distinguished river are brackish, but refreshing. Incrustations of -salt are formed upon the rocks lying above its surface. This river was -named Rio Colorado by the early Santa Fe traders; who, without having -followed it down to any considerable distance, believed it to be the -head waters of the great river of this name, which flows into the -Mississippi below Natchez. It has, however, since been followed down to -its junction with the Arkansas, and found to be the Canadian fork of -that river. We were now within 140 miles of Santa Fe, having marched -more than 600 miles over a country destitute of timber, with but -little water, and occupied only by roving bands of Indians who subsist -wholly upon buffalo meat. We saw immense herds of that animal on the -Arkansas and its tributaries. The whole country presents, thus far, the -most gloomy and fearful appearances to the weary traveller. But rough -and uninviting as it is, all who visit New Mexico via Santa Fe, are -compelled to pass it. - -_3d._--We have journeyed well to-day, having reached St. Clair Springs. -It is a beautiful spot, well watered--and glowing in delightful -verdure. It is surrounded by mountains, the surface of which are -covered with craggy rocks. We searched for miles around our camp for -wood, with little success. The different companies killed a number of -antelopes here. - -_Sunday, 4th._--We are still encamped, and shall remain in our position -till the morning of the 5th. I took a walk, to “wagon mound,” so called -from the shape of its top, being like a covered wagon when seen in -the distance. This mountain top is surrounded by a cliff of craggy -rocks at least 100 feet in height. A most beautiful view is presented -to the beholder. To the south you see hills covered with cedar and -pine, situated in the immense prairie; to the north and north-west, -are seen mountains with rocks piled upon rocks, with here and there -groves of evergreens; far away to the east, is the desert, over which -we had just passed. The sides of this mountain are covered with a -hard kind of sand, and pumice stone, having the appearance of cinder. -Whilst I am writing, being situated as far up as it is prudent to go, -an adventurous fellow by the name of George Walton, has gained the -wagon top, two others have also ascended, an achievement that few can -perform. North of us there is a salt lake which we intend to visit this -evening. - -_Sunday Afternoon._--Lieut. Smith and myself took a stroll to the -lake. We found a thick crust of salt around its edge, which is several -miles in circumference. We returned to camp by a mountain path, very -difficult to travel. - -_5th._--Eighteen miles were passed over to-day, through a mountainous -country. We had just erected our tents and prepared for rest, when an -evidence that we were approaching some civilized country, arrived in -the shape of a Frenchman, who met us here with a travelling grocery. -This concern came from Moras--a barrel of whiskey was strapped on the -back of a poor mule--which stuff, some of our soldiers were foolish -enough to drink: it sells at $1 per pint. Such dear drinking ought to -make drunkards scarce. - -_6th._--Saw a mud cottage on the road side to-day. The sight was most -pleasant to our eyes, accustomed as they were for forty-four days to a -wild waste. As we rode up, every one must have a look into the house. -It was inhabited by a native of North Carolina, whose wife is a Spanish -woman. After being somewhat gratified with the sight of a house, though -built of mud with its flat roof, we went on 18 miles, and encamped at a -town called Rio Gallenas Bagoes. On visiting this place we were struck -with the singular appearance of the town and its inhabitants. The town -consists of mud huts containing apartments built on the ground. The men -were engaged in pounding cornstalks from which sugar is made; the women -with faces tattooed and painted red, were making tortillas. We ate -some, and found them excellent. - -_7th._--The wagons which contained our provisions coming in sight, we -prepared the wood, which we obtained with difficulty, for boiling the -coffee, &c., when Col. Mitchell rode up and told us the wind was too -high to encamp. And hungry as we were, we went ahead 17 miles through -a forest of pine to Ledo Barnell, where we encamped for the night. A -grisly bear was killed to-day by some members of the Randolph Company. - -_8th._--We passed the large village of San Miguel to-day. Col. Mitchell -and his interpreter went forward in search of a good place to encamp. -The weather was dry and pleasant, with a suitable temperature for -travelling. The most disagreeable annoyance is the sand, which is very -unpleasant when the wind is high. - -_9th._--Col. Mitchell had chosen a spot for our encampment, about -12 miles from our last resting place, near the foot of a mountain. -There was no water to be found. Impelled by necessity we followed an -Indian trail over the mountain 5 miles, and after riding through the -thick pines for several hours we found the coveted treasure. As may be -supposed we drank most heartily, after which we filled our canteens and -returned to camp about 12 o’clock at night. We learned that Santa Fe -was about 25 miles off. - -_10th._--We arrived at the mountain pass at 10 o’clock, and reached -Santa Fe about 3 o’clock in the afternoon. The glorious stars and -stripes floating over the city was the first object that greeted our -sight. We formed and marched into the town in order. We were received -with martial music and several rounds of blank cartridges were fired -as a welcome to us. We paraded in the square fronting the Governor’s -house. After parade I took a walk through the town. The wagons did not -arrive with our tents in time for us to encamp, and with our blankets -around us, we laid down to rest. The blue sky was our canopy. - -_Sunday, 11th._--It was so cold and disagreeable last night that I -found it impossible to sleep. I shivered through the night on the hard -soil, and rose this morning with a severe headache. I walked about to -keep myself warm. After eating three small crackers for breakfast, -I went to church in company with several others, to hear a Catholic -priest. The music was prettily performed on various instruments. An old -man in the meantime turning round before an image, and after he had -bowed to the people several times the music ceased. All was over--and -we returned to camp. I felt sick and sad, for the worship did not -refresh my spirits. This evening I was pall-bearer to a member of the -Benton Company, who died in the hospital soon after his arrival. We -carried him out about a mile from the city to his final resting place. -Four others were buried to-day, who died from fatigue and exhaustion. -They belonged to the different companies. The muffled roll of the drum, -and the firing of the farewell to the dead, did not have a tendency to -cheer me. - -_12th._--This morning the roll was called, and various duties assigned -the soldiers. Some had to work on the Fort, and others to cut and haul -wood. In the latter employment I had to become teacher to some green -hands. I found the task very troublesome--but performed it to the best -of my ability. In the evening I wrote letters to my friends in Maryland. - -_15th._--The two past days have been employed in preparations for -our departure from Santa Fe. We have encountered much trouble and -perplexity in getting teams, &c., have to travel 80 miles up the -mountains where we shall take up our winter quarters. We went out -6 miles and encamped. Having a severe headache, I tried my best to -get some rest at night, but I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was -awakened by the officer to stand guard. I arose mechanically, feeling -pretty much as I should suppose a fellow might feel who was on his way -to execution. Taking up my gun I went to a large fire, where I sat -quietly for two hours, watching my feelings more than I did the camp, -for I was very unwell. - -_16th._--The breaking down of some wagons detained us here till late. -After starting we met a number of Spaniards, mounted on mules. We -passed some little patches of corn badly cultivated, which they dignify -with the name of farms. A messmate wishing some red pepper, I called -with him at a house, but it was all “_no comprenda_”--“_dont understand -you_,” so we got no red pepper. We went on to the next habitation -through a broken country; here we found our third Lieutenant with the -interpreter arranging for our camp. As we had to wait for the other -companies to come up, I rested on some corn shucks, and very pleasantly -did the bed feel. It was a bed of down in comparison with that to which -I had been accustomed. I had slept on the ground for more than three -months. Nothing grows spontaneously in this country but the Spanish -broom. - -_17th._--Colds, and other complaints, are becoming common in our ranks. -After the fatigue of marching on foot heavily armed, we were illy -calculated to do the duties of the camp. Our horses being too much -enfeebled for further use, after our arrival at Santa Fe, were sent up -the mountain to recruit. Thus our hardships increase with our progress. -The ground being very broken where we encamped to-night, which is in a -wheat field, I gathered all the stubble I could, to make our beds soft -and even--bought some wood to cook with from the natives. - -_18th._--I started alone, and tried to overtake two messmates who -had gone on before me. I had not proceeded more than 6 miles when I -found my two young gentlemen playing cards on the road side. I passed -them, and came to a village where I saw a considerable number of -Spaniards. An old woman invited me in her house and set before me some -tortillas and cornstalk-molasses which were quite a treat. I remained -there several hours, but thinking I had missed my way I was about -to take leave, with many thanks for their hospitality, when, to my -great surprise and embarrassment, the old lady and her daughter most -affectionately embraced me. I suppose it was the custom among these -simple hearted mountaineers, but of which I was quite ignorant. I was -thankful for the meal my hostesses had provided for me, but the hugging -was a luxury I did not anticipate, nor was I the least ambitious of -having it repeated. I found my company without much difficulty. We -went on and crossed the Rio Grande. In the first stream I got my feet -wet; the second was too deep for wading, and I was kindly invited by -our Sergeant to mount behind him. We encamped there, having travelled -12 miles that day. - -_19th._--We were surrounded by the natives, who appeared friendly. -When we came to the place where our horses were feeding, we learned -from the soldiers in charge, that some of them had died, and that -several had been stolen or had strayed away--mine, of course, was among -the missing. While the others were preparing to mount, I shouldered -my musket and walked on, in sand half a foot deep. The walk was -exceedingly tiresome. I saw large quantities of wild geese on the Rio -Grande. After marching 8 miles we encamped. - -_20th._--All on horseback this morning in fine style, except myself -and a few others equally unfortunate. We made the best use of our -scrapers through the sand. After walking awhile we came to a house on -the road side, the inhabitants of which, men, women and children came -rushing out. We were at a loss to know what it meant, till we saw them -surround a colored man, (our Surgeon’s cook,) who proved a novel sight -to them. The poor fellow was quite mortified at being made a show of on -account of his color. We went on 8 miles and encamped among the Utah -Indians. They are at war with the Navihoes, who have hunted them nearly -down. After supper I asked permission of our Captain to accompany Mr. -White, and several others to their encampment. Here, around a large -fire sat an Indian chief with his squaws. After being introduced by -our interpreter, a council was called. After some jabbering, a regular -war-dance commenced. Their best warriors, equipped in full costume, -and painted most hideously in twenty different ways--danced furiously -around a large fire, to the music of kettles and drums. It was a horrid -din, in which mingled the war-whoop. We gazed with astonishment till -its conclusion, when an old chief made a long speech. We then returned -to our camp to meditate upon what we had seen and heard, and to wonder -at the strangeness of character and habit exhibited by those poor -creatures. - -_21st._--We were surrounded by the Indians before our breakfast was -over. They came on to Abique, and encamped near us. There are several -villages in this place. We arrived about two o’clock, and took up our -quarters. The companies under Major Gilpin which were stationed there, -and which we had been sent to relieve, were greatly worn and reduced -with their long stay among the mountains. There was another dance at -night in the Indian camp--being much tormented with sandburs, I did not -go out. We had to eat our provisions half cooked, from the scarcity -of wood. I and a messmate were forced to “hook” two small poles from -a fodder crib, and when we returned to camp we found the companies on -parade, and the Captain telling them the order of the next day. - -_22d._--The whole command, viz. two companies from Col. Price’s -Regiment, consisting of about one hundred and eighty men, were obliged -to remove to-day four miles further up the river, in order to obtain -grass and fuel. This place being entirely destitute of either. At -night, I went with our interpreter and third Lieutenant to several -houses, to buy mutton. While on our errand we met with some ladies; one -of them had a dough face; all the rest were smeared with red, and to my -fancy, not at all beautiful. We returned to camp without our mutton, -and not a little disappointed. - -_23d._--The country here is bare and sterile to a great degree, but -there is an improvement with regard to fuel, which is so necessary at -this season, in this mountainous country. I believe we are stationary -at last. I was kept busy all day writing letters for the soldiers, -many of whom very gladly do my washing and mending in return, for this -slight service. I had rather at any time write than cook and wash and -mend clothes. - -_24th._--I felt sick to-day. I took cold from a severe drenching, while -on duty as a sentinel last night. A heavy cold rain was falling the -whole time. I strove to assist in making our camp as comfortable as -possible, and in the evening despatched two letters to Santa Fe, for -my beloved friends in Maryland. - -_Sunday, 25th._--At day-break this morning, a number of Mexicans came -to camp; jabbering to themselves in a great rage about something. At -first we could not ascertain the cause of their trouble, there being -no interpreter present, and none of the soldiers knowing enough of -the Spanish language to comprehend their meaning; soon, however, it -was discovered that about sundown last evening, the Captain of our -company had caused the embankment of their mill and irrigating pond, -to be broken, a short distance above camp on the bank of the river, so -as to prevent it from overflowing the bed of his tent. The water of -course rushed out with great force, tearing the embankment down and -washing the earth away for a considerable distance, stopping their mill -and leaving many families destitute of water; all of which serious -injuries, the Captain seemed disinclined to repair. This behavior of -the Captain met with but little favor from his men. To their honor be -it spoken. - -_26th._--This morning our Lieutenant went round the camp to get -volunteers to repair the broken ditch. All seemed unwilling to do -any thing--some had their horses to find, others to cut and haul -wood. The men had no idea of laboring gratuitously for the repair of -a deed wantonly done by their Captain. I with several others walked -four miles up the river, with our axes, for the purpose of getting -wood. We crossed the river several times in the wildest and most -out-of-the-way places, between high cragged mountains which it was -impossible to ascend. We returned to camp with our wagon loaded, though -we encountered great difficulty in accomplishing it. We found there -was a disagreeable misunderstanding among the officers respecting the -embankment. The Captain wished soldiers detailed for its repair, and -the Lieutenants thinking it an imposition on the poor fellows to stand -in the mud to work such cold weather, without compensation. - - * * * * * - -_28th._--We are now living in the midst of the greatest abundance of -life’s luxuries. As an evidence of our high living, I will transcribe -our bill of fare for the week. It is as follows: - -Monday.--Bread, beef, (tough as leather,) bean soup. - -Tuesday.--Tough beef, bread, and bean soup. - -Wednesday.--Bean soup, bread, and tough beef--and so on to the end of -the week. - -The greatest _harmony_ prevails in camp, especially among the officers, -the Captain and first Lieutenant are the greatest _friends_ imaginable, -they do every thing in their power for the good of the company. They -are the _bravest_ and most _patriotic_ officers in the regiment. In -this lovely and fertile valley, encamped on the banks of the Rio -Charma, we are enjoying all the _blessings_ of life. We are charmed by -the surpassing beauty of the polished Spanish ladies, and living in -so much _harmony_ with each other that we almost imagine the “garden -of Eden” to have been again raised for our enjoyment; and then, Oh! -heavens, what a luxury, amid these joys, to feel the delightful -sensations produced by the gentle and graceful movements of a Spanish -_louse_ as he journeys over one’s body! The very thought of it makes me -poetic, and I cannot resist the temptation of dedicating a line to the -memory of moments so exquisite. How appropriate are the words of Moore -to such occasions of bliss? - - Oft in the stilly night, - Ere slumber’s chains have bound me, - I feel the cursed creatures bite, - As scores are crawling round me. - - O not like one who treads alone, - The banquet halls deserted;-- - In crowds they crawl despite the groan - Of him whose blood they started. - -When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I found the above had -been written by some wag, in my absence. He was disposed to ridicule -my description of the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather -mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather waggish myself -when I made the boast of our possessing Eden-like pleasures. The -continuation of my narrative pleased me so well that I consented to -let it remain as it was written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of -expression is the most innocent way in which we can relieve ourselves, -for we privates are suffering many privations while some of our -officers refuse to speak to each other. I am glad, however, that our -troubles are so merrily turned into ridicule, the best way sometimes -to treat them. We are not destitute of sport however--many amusing -scenes occur among us, debating societies are formed among the soldiers -in which the most absurd questions are dilated upon with a vehemence -and mock seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee without -sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions sliced up with parched -corn, made a better meal for us to-day than we have had for some days -past. Yesterday I traded off _two needles_ to the Spanish girls for -six ears of corn and some onions, it was a trade decidedly profitable -for both parties. In company with our first Lieutenant, his brother, -William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a number of others, I went up on a high -peak of the Rocky Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes when -it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire, and amused ourselves by -listening to the reverberations of sound produced by our Lieutenant’s -revolver, who fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and found -water in the crevice of the rock close to the edge of the precipice. -It was too far below the surface for us to drink by stooping over, and -William White proposed to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water, -reminding me of one of Æsop’s fables. We followed his advice and the -water was soon forced to rise high enough for our purpose. The snow -increasing, we came down and made another fire in a large hollow of the -rock, where all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement that -I did not relish, and I sought my gratification in loosing the rocks -and rolling them down the side of the mountain, which is at least a -thousand feet above the level of our camp. - -_29th._--To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our guns and proceeded -down the river several miles in search of game. We fired at several -flocks of wild geese and ducks, but it only scared them further off. We -passed several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached the camp -we found the soldiers at different employments, some playing cards, -and others making articles to sell to the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was -engaged in the manufacture of a _grindstone_ to trade to the Spaniards -for corn and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables they -grow. - -_30th._--The mountains are covered with snow, and, after raining -hard all night, this morning it is clear and cold. We made the -best preparations we could to send the wagons back to Santa Fe for -provisions, as late last night, our second Lieutenant returned, after -an absence of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our -winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to be very little -likelihood of our going south at all. The officers went in search of -other quarters to-day. - -_31st._--We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which improved into -a snow-storm before morning. I slept very uncomfortably, as a high -wind from the north had full sweep in the door of our tent. We were -inspected at 11 o’clock, and carried through all the evolutions of the -drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm, though wrapped in -our blankets, and crowded around the fire. Yesterday one of our beef -cattle died from starvation. The Mexicans came down and took it off to -their habitations. We might have made a speculation by selling it but -did not think of it. - -_Sunday, November 1st._--Several of my mess are going up the mountains -to look for their horses. I offered a friend $5 (should I ever again -possess that sum) to search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to -some of the boys, while others sat apart, or pitched quoits. At night a -Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and played a number of tunes which -so exhilarated my poor half frozen companions that they united in a -dance which they kept up till a late hour. - -_2nd._--Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little native mills -on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes, and some coffee without -sugar, now comprise our only sustenance. Between meals, however, we -parch some corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in -exchange for buttons, needles, or any little matter we can spare. At -9 o’clock, we struck our tents, and marched down the river two miles -to a deserted Spanish house nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were -murdered by the Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to take -up our winter quarters. I can scarcely describe this wretched den. The -soldiers have looked in and they have become very dissatisfied. They -were told by the Captain to erect their tents inside the wall. All -the houses in this region having that protection. We could not sleep -in the house on account of the offensive odor. The tent was much more -comfortable. - -_3d._--As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee was over, some -of the men were appointed to scrape and clean the house. I with several -others was sent to the mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking -two miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not grow here -more than half the usual size. On the return, I thought I would take -a near cut to our camp alone. I turned into a foot-path, which led me -to the top of a high mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a -long distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at camp, -where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary of Spanish words. They -have become very erudite of late. - -_4th._--All this day we did nothing but write down words from the -language spoken by the people, who, from their complexion, appear to -be a mixture of the Spanish and Indian races. We made a pretty good -dictionary among us. - -_5th._--This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard. At 4 o’clock, -our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned from Santa Fe. He brought bad -news. He could get no provisions, except one-fourth rations of flour, -and one and a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding all this, -our boys are still very lively. - -_6th._--We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel sufficient for our -present purpose, and the prospect of a long and severe winter before -us makes our situation rather unenviable. - -_7th._--On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a little bread, (i. e. -two pints for six men,) some fried beef, and coffee without sugar. - -_Sunday, 8th._--Although the morning was cloudy and cold, I walked -with twenty others down to Abique to church. On arriving we went into -the priest’s room. He very politely invited us to be seated, and then -commenced asking all kinds of questions about the United States. He -seemed to take great interest in teaching us the Spanish language. He -made us repeat after him, many long and hard words. We sat two hours -with him and then went in church, where a large congregation was -assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his appearance, dressed in -gold lace, and ascended the pulpit, while all present fell on their -knees. The music of various instruments now commenced, the priest the -meanwhile, drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people remained on -their knees till the music ceased, when all retired. - -It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would take place in -the evening. Some of us went in to inquire of the priest, who informed -us that the fandango was to be at a village some miles further off. In -a little while, a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After walking -a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish fellow, very quietly -sat down to pull off his shoes, and told all who were in favor of -wading the stream to follow his example. Eight of the boys immediately -commenced stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disappoint -them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad cold, with some others, -who felt no inclination to wet their feet, I returned to our quarters. - -_9th._--All this day in the mountains cutting wood. - -_10th._--I went with several others to search for lost horses. We had -not gone far when to my great joy I found mine, which had not been seen -since we left Santa Fe. We heard volleys of musketry in the direction -of our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning, till on our -return, we learned that a dog had been buried with the honors of war. -This poor dog had been a great favorite with our Captain and all the -company; he was most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night. -The man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on extra duty -as a punishment, the Captain being much exasperated. This evening I, -with four others took rations for five days, in order to drive the -horses down the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish -village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a fandango was to -come off, and the ladies of the place were preparing for the dance. -They were nicely equipped in their best finery, and the soldiers were -engaged to accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending the -fandango, I preferred to remain and try to get some rest, of which -I was very much in need. The party was soon prepared, and off they -started, leaving me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their -comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee, fried the beef, -made the bread, and having all things in readiness, I drank a cup of -coffee and laid down to rest on a mattress placed on the floor. As far -as the thing I laid on was concerned, I was comfortable enough; the -mattress was a luxury; but I could not sleep; the reasons were various. -I was lying in a house, when I was accustomed to dwell in tents;--my -quarters were divided between myself several donkies and mules and two -small children--the odor of the donkies was not the most agreeable, nor -their noise very harmonious; the children knew their mother was out and -did their best at crying. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I -hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left for the lulling -of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers. - -_11th._--Our soldiers did not return from the fandango till 3 o’clock -this morning, and I was appointed to get breakfast while they slept. I -had considerable trouble in accomplishing this service, as the girls -crowded around the fire, and I had frequently to pass the frying -pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting near me. -In company with a young Spaniard, who was exceedingly agreeable and -polite, I went out after breakfast to kill wild geese. We walked a -long distance, and returned unsuccessful. - -_12th._--I find the family residing here, very agreeable. I was -invited, and almost forced to accompany them to a fandango last night -(for they do little else but dance.) All on horseback, the married men -mounted behind their wives, we started. A little baby in its mother’s -arms becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he was a married -man, most gallantly rode up, and offered to carry the little creature. -The mother thankfully resigned it to his charge. There was more -pleasure in the idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care -of a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man invited us to -partake of his hospitality;--an invitation we gladly accepted. We went -in accordingly, and after all were seated on the floor in the posture -of a tailor, a large earthen vessel was placed before us containing -pepper sauce and soup; and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made of -corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused my mouth to burn -to a blister. The people are very fond of condiments, and become so -accustomed to them that what will burn a stranger’s mouth has no effect -upon theirs. After all was over, we went across the street to attend -the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge it was high in favor with -all classes of the community. Some of the performers were dressed in -the most fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The ladies -and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity quite painful to behold, -and the music pealed in deafening sounds. I took my seat near a pretty -girl, and every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did pretty -often, her beau would shake his head in token of his displeasure, and -showing his jealous disposition. I left the place about 10 o’clock, and -returned to our quarters. - -_13th._--We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish ruins. The Captain -and officers were glad to see us, especially as we had good news in -relation to the horses. We had them in charge, and exhibited them to -our comrades as the trophies of our success. On our return, we killed -two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found a great help to our -stock of provisions which was then very low. - -_14th._--I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day, while our boys -were attending to the horses. My Spanish friends are very courteous, -but there is little to relieve the monotony of our intercourse, as from -my ignorance of the language I am unable to converse with them. - -_15th._--This morning we had one of our wild geese stewed for -breakfast, which we had without coffee, and almost without bread. After -breakfast I started to camp to draw provisions of some kind. When at -camp I concluded to remain there. - -_16th._--I was told by the Sergeant to-day, that there was no flour -to issue. He referred me to the Captain, who directed young Bales and -myself to a mill some distance off, where we procured 60_lbs._ of -unsifted Taos flour very coarsely prepared. With this, we returned, and -in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated to the use of the -half-starved soldiers. A very small portion of this brown flour fell -to our share. This evening we are without food, or nearly so. Martin -Glaze, an old veteran, who has seen service, and belongs to my mess, -got a few ears of corn and parched it in a pan, with a small piece of -pork to make it greasy. When it was done, we all sat around the fire -and ate our supper of parched corn greased with fat pork. The weather -to-night is extremely cold. - -_17th._--Awoke early this morning and found it snowing very hard. At -10 o’clock I went to our first Lieutenant’s quarters. He was engaged -in appraising some cattle which are pressed into our service, and for -which the natives were to be paid. A bull has just been killed, and the -offals are being greedily devoured by our poor fellows. At 11 o’clock -to-day our third Corporal died, having been sick with camp fever and -inflammation of the brain several weeks. At 3 o’clock his grave was dug -and the poor fellow was wrapped in his blanket--and buried without a -coffin. To-night there are several of our men sick with the measles, -supposed by our Surgeon to have been brought from Santa Fe. - -_18th._--The snow four inches deep--clear and very cold--another grave -dug to-day for a member of the Livingston company, making five who -have died since we have been out here. They are all buried near the -mountain, where poor Johnson was laid. - -_20th._--The past two days have been employed in procuring wood, which -is hard labor; but we do not complain as our fare is improved by the -addition of bean soup and coffee. - -_21st._--A court martial was held this morning to try our fourth -Sergeant, who has said something derogatory to the character of our -Orderly. After the court adjourned, we were ordered to form a line. -Our first Lieutenant then stood in front and read the proceedings -of the court. The decision was that our fourth Sergeant be reduced -to the ranks, for slander. It was ordered that if any man, or men -should thereafter bring false charges against the officers, he or -they, should be sent with a file of soldiers to Santa Fe, and tried at -head quarters, &c. The company was then dismissed. Several of my mess -concluded to run as candidates for the vacant place. They went among -the crowd with tobacco and parched corn, electioneering. I was placed -on guard at 9, and had to stand till 11 o’clock. - -_Sunday, 22d._--A gloomy Sabbath morning--I felt badly, but concluded -to go to church at Abique. As soon as the ceremonies were ended I went -in the priest’s room in company with my old friend Capt. Markle and -several officers. After sitting awhile, a servant brought in a dish of -refreshments, consisting of pies and wine. Placing the glass to my lips -I discovered it to be _Taos whiskey_, as strong as alcohol. A piece of -the pie, I thought might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowded -my mouth full, and found--alas! it was composed of onions, a dreadful -fix indeed, for a hungry man, Taos whiskey and onion pie!--the very -thought of the mess makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp I -found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards. Elias Barber, a -messmate, was taken sick with the measles. The disease, is now raging -among the troops. - -_23d._--We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day. We had to travel -far up the mountain for it, and it is exceedingly difficult to cook -with it out of doors in the deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the -bread, and I had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together. I -felt more than usual fatigue after the parade. - -_24th._--Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He spent a wretched -night last night in a thin cotton tent. The wind is blowing on him -constantly, while the measles are out very thick. I went to the Captain -this morning and informed him of the situation of the young man. He -told me if I could procure a place in the house, he might be brought -in. I therefore went and after making preparations to move him, I was -told that no such thing should be done. I then tried to get an extra -tent to place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was -denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, exposed to all the -inclemency of this cold climate. And last night it was so cold that the -water became frozen in our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested, -but it is all to no purpose--nothing further is done for the comfort of -the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the tender mercies of such -men! - -_25th._--I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered much from a -severe attack of diarrhœa. Our lodgings are very uncomfortable. I went -down to the Rio Grande to get water, and found it nearly frozen over. A -great mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from exposure -and disease. - -_26th._--I was very much engaged all day, in nursing poor Barber. He is -worse to-day, the measles having disappeared from the surface. I sat -by him the livelong night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I -felt sad to think I had no means of relief. At 4 o’clock this morning -the Captain came, and finding him so ill, brought out a tent to cover -the one he laid in. - -_27th._--Last night, my messmate Philips returned from Santa Fe, -with a message from Col. Price to the different Captains, to send on -ten men from each company, as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was -about to start for Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a -communication with General Wool. To-day an express arrived from Col. -Mitchell for the same purpose. We were hastily paraded to ascertain how -many would volunteer to go, when I, with five others of my company, -stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled. We were satisfied -that we could not render our situation worse, and hoped any change -might be for the better. We hastened to the grazing ground, over the -mountain, for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was gone of -course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a young man for a horse -which belonged to a deceased soldier. - -_28th._--A full company having been made up, this morning we gathered -at our quarters, and were ready at 8 o’clock to take leave of our -kind hearted comrades. They bid us “good-bye,” with many expressions -of regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our journey 35 -miles, and put up late in the evening at the house of a rich Spaniard, -who accommodated us with an empty room twenty feet square, but it -had so small a fireplace that we could not use it for our culinary -purposes, so we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air. -It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded forty -pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty-six good sized cakes, -while two others prepared our camp kettles of coffee, &c. - -_Sunday, 29th._--At 4 o’clock we ate our breakfast, and were on the -road by day-light. We travelled all day without stopping, and arrived -at Santa Fe at 6 o’clock in the evening. We went immediately to the -American Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men sat down -to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a privilege for nearly four -months. All were hungry, and it was amusing to see how we tried to eat -our landlord out of house and home. After supper we retired to our -quarters in a very small room. - -_30th._--Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morning for us to parade -before the Governor’s house for inspection. Our horses were also -examined, and all being found in good order for the trip, we were -dismissed and conducted to our quarters, in the court house; where we -drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American flour, with pork -enough to last five days. - -_December 1st._--Paraded again soon after breakfast, and were told by -our Captain, that previously to our departure, we must all march to -the sutler’s store, and acknowledge our indebtedness to him, so up we -rode in right order and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and -I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few articles of clothing -on my route, being forced to do so from necessity. I was therefore not -surprised at the amount, especially when I read the prices of some the -articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief $1--suspenders $1--flannel -shirt $3--tin coffee pot $1 50, &c. &c. Here we bade farewell to our -Captains, who had accompanied us to Santa Fe to see us off. Captain -Williams shook me cordially by the hand, saying, he had no expectation -of seeing me again in this world. Captain Hudson now took charge, and -rode with us two miles out of town--here he informed us, we had a -dangerous road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieutenant -Todd for two days, till we were joined by Col. Mitchell and himself. -He returned to town, and we came on four miles and stopped at a house, -whose master sold us forage for our horses and wood, it being severely -cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the night. - -_2d._--We marched 25 miles to a place called San Domingo, and took -quarters in a deserted house. This is a considerable place, with a -handsome church, which was being illuminated when we arrived. In a -little time the bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry -and considerable commotion at the door of the church. Several of our -soldiers were induced to go up and inquire into the meaning of the -uproar. We were told that a converted Indian chief had just died, and -all this was to prevent him from going down to purgatory. The roll -of the drum and firing continued a long time, when the ceremonies -commenced in the church, from the door of which we saw many large -wax candles burning, but not being permitted to enter we very quietly -retired. - -_3d._--After travelling six miles we came to an Indian village called -San Felippe, and two miles further down the Rio Grande we encamped -in the midst of a good pasture for our horses. After supper, our -Lieutenant told me I was honored with the appointment of Captain of the -watch. In consequence of this distinction, I had to be up nearly all -night. It was very cold. We were now comparatively happy, for we had -plenty of good flour from the States, with coffee, sugar, &c. - -_4th._--We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here till Col. -Mitchell comes up with the other company, so we seize the opportunity -to have our horses shod. Two blacksmiths are now at work; I have just -bought a set of shoes and nails from our sutler for $3. - -_5th._--The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face of the country -presents nothing inviting at this season of the year. Every thing has -a desolate and wintry appearance. There being no food for our horses, -we chopped down some limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat. -We then went to a Mexican village to buy corn. Having no money, I -took some tobacco and buttons to trade for the corn. While here, I -sold my greasy blanket for a Navihoe one, with a meal for my horse in -the bargain. The man with whom I traded was very kind; he set before -me some corn, mush and sausages, but being seasoned with onions, I -declined eating. He then brought in some corn stalk molasses, which -I mixed with water and drank, thanking him for his hospitality. I -returned to camp, when I found that Col. Mitchell, and the baggage -wagons had arrived. I was officer of the guard to-night, and up till 12 -o’clock. - -_Sunday, 6th._--Formed in line by our Colonel in the midst of a heavy -shower of rain, and marched down the Rio Grande, a long distance. Our -course is due south, keeping the river constantly on our right, and -ranges of mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages, and at -night encamped near one. - -_7th._--Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast, I found the -snow four inches deep, and still snowing very fast. Marched in right -order 15 miles, and after passing several towns situated on the banks -of the river, we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk. Here -are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars; near whose quarters -we encamped in a large room 100 feet by 40. In this place we found a -number of soldiers, some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and -others amusing themselves in various ways. - -_8th._--The country through which we passed to-day is thickly dotted -over with towns and villages, whose names I cannot remember, but the -road is dismal enough, being still among the mountains, where every -object the eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very -intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls of a town. We -had six small ears of corn for our horses, and no fodder. I went to the -Quarter Master and was informed by him that the Mexicans had refused -to sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform jacket, and -with them tried to purchase food for my horse, but I was refused every -where. I sat down and made out a requisition, and with several others -went to their large stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and -threw down a large turn for each. We succeeded in coming off with our -booty, and in a few minutes, we were in bed. We were not disturbed in -conscience in the least, being fully covered by the axiom, “necessity -knows no law.” - -_9th._--We were called up this morning to lead our horses into ranks, -when two guns and a sabre were missing. They had been taken from the -tents by the Mexicans. After the line was formed, Col. Mitchell ordered -the men who had lost their arms, to march out. He then told them they -would be left behind to search the town, assisted by the alcalde, and -if they should not find their arms they would have to return to Santa -Fe. We then left; marched ten miles and encamped near a village. Our -interpreter was sent to procure forage for the horses, but he returned -with the news that none could be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to -go up with a file of soldiers and _take_ what was wanting. He formed -a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched off with our Orderly -at the head, and second Sergeant, with the bags to put the corn in. At -the door of the house, we were ordered to halt. The lock was broken, -and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down to the camp. In -this adventure I made the acquaintance of a young man by the name of -Hepbourn. He was born and raised in Prince George’s County, Md. After -supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of cartridges. A -strong guard was ordered out to-night. - -_10th._--Having orders to march very early, we rose by light and -proceeded down the river 18 miles, the country presenting very much -the appearance already described. We saw a few vineyards, surrounded -by walls. I felt miserably disordered from the cold and loss of rest. -I was just about to sit down to supper, which I thought might revive -me, when our Orderly came by, requesting the men to form in line -immediately, as the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We -stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail. When the reading -was concluded, we returned to our tents. After supper, sixteen men were -detailed on guard. I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours -before day-light. It was extremely cold. - -_11th._--The roll was called at day-break, and after parade we -continued our march 12 miles and encamped in a town among the -mountains. Wood was very scarce, and the severity of the weather -increasing. - -_12th._--We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted of mess -pork and bread, half baked by a miserable fire. We went 12 miles to -a place where there is a fine supply of wood. Our poor fellows had -the satisfaction of having a good fire all night, and it was very -necessary, for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind and -snow. - -_Sunday, 13th._--At one o’clock this morning I awoke and found myself -so cold that I arose and went to the guard-fire to thaw myself. I stood -by the fire till day-light. The Captain in his round to visit the -guard, stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him. He is -very clever and condescending. He remained an hour or two, and then -woke up the Orderly to have all in readiness for a start. We came over -the mountain four miles, where our road intersected the river again, -passed a town, and further on encamped near the river. Our interpreter -bought a beef from the natives, also a little wood to cook it. The wild -geese are very numerous here. - -_14th._--The roll was called very early this morning--and as my horse -had a sore back, I asked the Captain’s permission to walk behind the -wagons. I walked all this day and led my horse. When I came up to the -encampment I found that my mess had supper ready. It consisted of a -kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I relished the supper very -much, but by way of desert I received information that I had to stand -sentinel. I walked my post two hours and then went to bed; being too -cold to sleep, I got up at two o’clock, and went to the guard-fire. The -guard said he was very sleepy and would lie down if I would consent to -serve while he slept. To this I readily agreed--and he laid down, while -I made a large fire, which soon attracted the attention of the other -sentinels, and several of them collected around it. We enjoyed each -others conversation till the morning dawned. - -_15th._--I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had walked our post four -hours over the time. I received the compliment, but did not tell him -that we had sat by the fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with -a pipe in his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to stay here -till the 17th. - -_16th._--Having secured some beef, I made a large fire to get an early -breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master pressed a lot of seven very -good cattle from the Mexicans. Last night a strong guard of twenty men -was stationed around our camp. The weather is still raw and cold. We -are yet among the mountains. - -_17th._--This morning we reached the _second crossing_ of the Rio -Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing, we overtook Col. Doniphan’s -command, and encamped near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I -did not come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very angry at a -circumstance which they related and made me write down, with a promise -to publish it--which promise I now fulfil. While on the march to-day, -the Captain ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been -requested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come near their -fire or tents, as it incommoded them greatly. He stated on his own -behalf, as well as on behalf of the other officers, that it was quite -a nuisance to have the privates lurking about their tents and fires. -He said that something might be “hooked” and that the Lieutenant had -already lost some saleratus, &c. This was a poser. Our poor fellows -could hardly endure it. Some of them were much exasperated. I tried -to soothe them, and told them no other harm was meant than a slight -intimation that we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge of -their better fare might make us dissatisfied, &c. All passed off better -than I expected. We had to go a mile for water, and the thermometer at -zero. - -_18th._--The situation of our tents was by no means pleasant. There was -much complaint about stones and hillocks, lying hard, &c. Breakfast -over, I started with the wagons, in company with some others, whose -horses’ backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss of -rest, having walked my round five hours last night. We went on 12 -miles, which we trudged on foot. At night we cut some branches of the -cotton wood for our horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when -our Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have to walk -back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had to go through a gloomy -region or desert, 85 miles in extent, where no wood or water could -be procured. He advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to -last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and baked eighteen -cakes, while the balance was attended to by my mess. - -_19th._--We were all busy providing against the perils of our difficult -and dangerous march. We shall have to keep close company, as the -Navihoe Indians roam this desert in bands. At 11 o’clock we moved -off in fine order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At 8 -o’clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked up a few weeds, -kindled a little fire, took a cold cut of bread and meat, and laid on -the ground to rest, without erecting the tents. A young man having -drank too much of the “ardiente,” very unluckily offended one of the -officers, and was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel. He cut a -variety of capers while this was being done. His friends soon set him -at liberty. - -_20th._--The news of a “spring in the desert” was brought by some -scouts, who had started out on an exploring expedition. They found the -spring in a place full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over -a miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which turned out to -be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched 15 miles and encamped late at -night. We took a slice of bread and meat and laid down to rest on our -blankets. - -_21st._--The appearance of our Captain very early this morning aroused -us. He came with the intelligence that Major Gilpin had sent on an -express last night for a reinforcement, as he was expecting an attack -every moment from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on the march, and -without stopping to take breakfast we travelled 35 miles. We encamped -late at night 3 miles from the river, where men and beasts, thirsty -and weary, were refreshed. I was afraid my horse would kill himself -drinking. With six others, I pressed some oxen from the traders, whom -we found encamped here, as the most of our team had given out and were -left upon the road. - -_22nd._--Passed over 14 miles of broken wretched country to-day, the -soil of which produces nothing but a kind of shrub called soap-weed. -The inhabitants, it is said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We -encamped in a rough place, among stones and hillocks. - -_23rd._--I trust the end of this “_jornada_,” as it is called, and -which means the “region of death,” is nearly reached, for a march of 12 -miles brought us to a village, where we halted to take in provisions -bought by our Quarter Master. Proceeding two miles further we came -up to Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large sandy plain. We -had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Our flour was nearly gone, and we -had a little beef soup and rice for supper at night. The boys being -still hungry, we went to the village and procured some dried fruit and -pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our camp kettles. Of this -fare we partook heartily, and laid down to sleep in the sand. - -_24th._--The first blast of the bugle this morning made us hurry into -line. Some of the men being rather tardy, were too late, and they were -told by the officer who inspected us, that any man who did not come -into rank at the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard -three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast, which consisted of a -small piece of bread, made up with pumpkin. The weather is now quite -pleasant, and the country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to -improve in appearance. - - - - -BATTLE OF BRACITO. - - -_25th._--In the union of our forces we are one thousand strong. Moved -as early as usual from the position we have occupied the last three -days, and after marching 12 miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped at -10 o’clock. We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out; -went out to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of the men had gone at -least a mile from camp when the alarm was given, “_to arms! to arms!_” -Looking in the direction pointed out we saw a cloud of dust, as if the -whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling to throw away our -wood, we ran with our turns on our shoulders, when we heard an officer -hallooing--“Throw away your wood and bring your horses into camp.” We -obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found our Orderly at his -post, directing the men to load their guns and get into line. Every man -was at his proper place in a few minutes. By this time the Mexican -army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at a distance of a -mile from us. Presently an officer came out of their ranks, handsomely -mounted and bearing a black flag. Col. Mitchell, accompanied with the -interpreter, rode up to meet him on half way ground to inquire his -business. He told them he had come to demand the surrender of our -entire force, by submitting, he said, our lives would be spared--if we -did not, every man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short his -harangue by telling him to “go to h-- and bring on his forces.” In the -meantime our company (the Chihuahua Rangers) received orders from head -quarters to right about face, and march from the right, where we were -somewhat protected by brush, weeds and gopher hills, to the extreme -left, in open ground to withstand the charge of the Mexican cavalry; so -off we marched in double quick time to our position on the left. Our -Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the enemy was in fair -rifle distance, and added that he hoped no man in his command would -act the coward, but all would do their duty as volunteers and American -soldiers. He had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy commenced -firing at us, from three to four hundred yards distant. They advanced -closer, and continued to advance, pouring in volley after volley, till -the sound of bullets over our heads reminded me of a hail storm.--We -waited impatiently for the word of command. It was at length given, -“fire.” One loud peal of thunder was heard from our Missouri rifles. -Consternation and dismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion, -the Mexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another volley, well -aimed, caused them to _retreat_ towards our wagons. Here they were met -by a round from the wagon company. In the meantime Capt. Reid, at the -head of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them, chasing them to -the mountains. All their provisions, guns, sabres, camp furniture, &c., -besides one 10 pound howitzer, fell into our hands. The Mexican loss -was estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we had but -two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their dead on the field. - -_26th._--With fifteen prisoners and a few wounded Mexicans, we resumed -our march, the main army being flanked on both sides, and came on 16 -miles and encamped in a desolate place filled with thorn bushes. Here -we prepared our supper, and were about to sit down, when the report of -a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish the fires, and -form in line as quickly as possible. Presently our Lieutenant rode up -and said it was a false alarm. We were ordered to break ranks and get -our supper. Again we commenced that unfortunate meal, when the report -of a second gun, so loud as to be heard by every one, again made us -put the fires down. There was a tremendous clattering of arms, for all -formed in line in a few seconds. At this moment Lieut. Cribbons rode up -and said that in visiting one of the outer pickets, he was requested -to give the countersign by the guard, whose gun was cocked, and he -accidentally let the hammer down too heavily, causing it to explode, -the load passing close to the Lieutenant’s face. After hearing this -statement, we again broke ranks to resume our supper. I stood sentinel, -to guard the wagons and piece of artillery taken from the enemy, till -12 o’clock, then went to bed--was awakened again at 3, and stood till 6 -o’clock. - -_Sunday, 27th._--Col. Doniphan wishing an early start, the roll was -called at light and we moved on in the same order as yesterday, with -front and rear guard. We had scarcely travelled six miles, when at a -distance over the river was seen a dust, as if a body of horsemen were -meeting us. We were told to keep cool and obey orders. Continuing our -course we met several Mexicans bearing a white flag. Their commander -coming up, presented Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They -then drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed our march, -crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the town of El Paso del Norte -about night-fall. This is the noted pass between Old and New Mexico. -The town contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and is -built along the margin of the river, several miles in length. The -environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual varieties of -fruit grow here in abundance. The river is compressed in many places to -a very small compass, by the high and precipitous mountains, through -which it winds its way. - -_28th._--Established our quarters a mile from the city, where there is -a large coral or enclosure, in which to keep our horses. Throughout the -day a variety of fruit was brought to camp by the natives, and readily -bought up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were nearly -blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed with isinglass is very -hurtful to the eyes. - -_29th._--To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the town, found two -pieces of cannon, and after breaking several locks, a good deal of -ammunition was discovered. We all paraded and were carried through the -regular drill. - -_January 1st, 1847._--The last two days being quite cold, with high -winds, we kept in camp. After the usual parade to-day, Lieutenant Todd -went to town about 10 o’clock in company with several of our men, but -they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing with all their -might for us to get our horses quickly, and saddle up, for the Mexicans -were coming on us. In a little while we were ready and marched over -the river to join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When we -arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Doniphan, who despatched -Col. Mitchell with twelve men to reconnoitre the enemy, who were -reported to be in sight. In the course of an hour, they returned and -said it was a false alarm. We then marched to the public square, and -informed by our Captain that arrangements were made to keep us in town, -and that our camp equipage must be sent for. One out of each mess was -directed to go with the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied -with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite comfortable. - -_2nd._--Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The roll was called, -and we paraded twice, morning and evening. - -_Sunday, 3rd._--The usual duties being over, and a high wind -prevailing, we did not go to church. Hearing that a sick horse was in -the coral I went over to see, and found it was my mare. I brought her -out to have her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance, and when -I returned with a friend I found she had escaped; searched the town -three hours without finding her. - -_4th._--Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse; walked till three -o’clock, when I found her in the centre of a lot about two miles from -town--dead. I hastened to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as -my mare had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me to look -about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I succeeded I was to -call on him again in the morning. - -_5th._--Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names of those to be -placed on mounted guard, cried out mine. Accordingly, I with three -others marched down to the public square, where we paraded, and dinner, -or rather supper, being over, we were placed as sentinels till three -o’clock in the morning. I then went to the guard-fire, spread down my -blanket and slept till day-light. - -_6th._--To-day we were allowed two-third rations of coarse Taos flour, -some coffee without sugar, and poor mutton. We sometimes got a few -peaches from the inhabitants in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &c. - -_7th._--Finding our flour nearly gone I went out and bought a baked -pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit exhibited for sale, but had no -money to buy any. Our scouting party which had been sent out a few days -ago, returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest among -them. They were captured 12 miles down, on their way to Chihuahua, with -papers containing information of our movements to the Mexican army in -that quarter. They were placed under strict surveillance. - -_Sunday, 10th._--I went to church with a number of others, and -witnessed all the ceremonies, and manœuvres of this singular people. -The church is large, and the handsomest and best built house in the -place. I saw the representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with -various other images in and near the altar. On our return we found -multitudes in the open street playing cards--sorry to say, some were -American soldiers. - -_13th._--Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary duties of the -day are soon accomplished, and no novelty to amuse or excite, the -soldiers become restless and are ready for any excess. Our living -consists of poor mutton, the miserable Taos flour and a little coffee. -Some complain and others “hook” what they can to improve their fare. - -_14th._--I was taken last night with a violent headache and pain in -the bowels. My diarrhœa having become much worse I got up and went -to the Surgeon, who gave me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do. -rhubarb and 2 do. tartar, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this -monstrous compound and sat by the guard-fire till morning, I then laid -on my blanket and slept till 3 o’clock in the evening. Needing some -refreshment, I tried my mess, but they had nothing I could relish; I -went to Sergeant Edwards and he gave me a lump of sugar to sweeten my -coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune to purchase some molasses. -At length I applied to a messmate who had come to me a few days after -my horse had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent to -let him draw the rations of my horse I should have the use of this -mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent his mule away to graze, and -was _selling my corn_. When I presented my petition, he turned his back -as a refusal, and went down among the gamblers and lost every cent. - -_15th._--Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to our Surgeon, -who gave me a small lump of sugar, charging me to take particular care -of the article, as it was only intended for the _sick_. He felt my -pulse and made me swallow a large dose of salts and tartar; I then went -to my blanket. - -_16th._--I awoke this morning with a high fever and headache. The -Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I was placed in the hospital, under -the particular care of a doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who -said he was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man in the -regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very _politely_ took a pinch of sugar -between his thumb and finger to sweeten it for me, talking the while of -“his superior skill,” &c. - -_17th._--Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied to the -Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of American flour; I baked a -small cake to eat with my coffee. At night I spread my blanket in the -tent, and slept with my mess. - -_18th._--At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled over the -graveyard, where the remains of young Leland were interred yesterday. -This young man died of the fever prevailing among the troops, and his -grave is close to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles -of bones lay around--in the centre of some of the hills were erected -wooden crosses. - -_21st._--Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hospital, with high -fever and headache--bed hard and uncomfortable, consequently little -sleep or rest. The doctor, in his round, asked me why I was not out at -the roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his direction, -from the sick list. He said there was nothing the matter with me, and -he would give me no more medicine. He charged me with being home-sick, -&c. &c., with many other _tender_ and _endearing_ epithets. Weak and -quite unwell, I left the hospital and found my way to Col. Doniphan’s -quarters, I consulted Dr. Morton, who, with expressions of sympathy, -gave me the necessary restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with -very sore eyes. - -_26th._--I was somewhat recovered from my illness, through the humane -treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still suffered considerably from my -eyes. I felt much regret that I was prevented from joining Capt. -Hudson, who took our company on a scout, and will be gone several -days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here, occasioned by the -non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with the artillery from Santa Fe. Col. -Doniphan is hourly expecting this reinforcement. - -_27th._--Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer picket guard, -who could give no satisfactory account of himself, and told so many -contradictory tales, that our Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At -ten o’clock our company returned from the scouting expedition; they -went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it was deserted. They -think it very likely we shall have no fighting to do at Chihuahua. - -_29th._--While on guard to-day over the prisoners taken at the battle -of Bracito, I thought I would write in my journal, I searched my belt -for it in vain. It was gone!--taken out probably by some mischievous -soldier in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account of -every thing _interesting to myself_ at least, since the day I left -Carroll County, Missouri. Having another blank book I commenced writing -again, but felt provoked at my loss. - -_30th._--This morning, being relieved from the duty of sentinel, I -went immediately to Capt. Hudson and stated the loss of my journal. He -asked me a number of questions in relation to it, and appeared pleased -at so unusual an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told -the soldiers that Maryland’s book must be restored or every man in his -command should be searched. - -_31st._--The impatience of our boys for the arrival of the artillery -has induced several to go out to meet it. This evening some of them -returned, and said it was not more than 30 miles off. To-day my book -was found on the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed by -the Captain’s order, and dropped it in the most convenient place. - -_February 1st._--We paraded early, and about 12 o’clock several rounds -from our artillery-men, just across the Rio Grande, announced the -arrival of Capt. Weightman from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and -two twelve pound howitzers. They marched in town in right order; our -men firing the salute from our piece of captured cannon just as they -reached the public square. This company is an important acquisition to -our small force. - -_3d._--Early orders were received that Lieut. Col. Mitchell, at the -head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would move down to the fort to-day. -Every thing being in readiness we came on in double file, and arrived -at sunset at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons being -delayed on the road, every thing like food in this small place was had -in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and we made our supper on -pies, cheese, bread, &c. - -_4th._--This morning we were told to saddle up and hasten forward to -overtake the traders, who had disobeyed orders in preceding us; we were -ordered to bring them back. In obedience to the order we started and -travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexicans, who endeavored -to elude our observation. Our first and second Lieutenants wishing to -know who they were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run of -two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and searched. One was the -alcalde from the town where we staid last night. We halted late in the -evening on the road, where we met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre, -&c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no papers being -found on his person, he was suffered to pass. - -_5th._--Marched on several miles, overtook and encamped with the -traders, who had formed their wagons in a pen or coral, tried to -refresh ourselves on a supper of black bread, poor beef, and sassafras -tea, cooked over a fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of -the sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction cost 25 -cents to-night. - -_6th._--The ground was so uneven we did not erect our tents, but -spread our blankets and went to bed; the cold prevented any thing like -refreshing sleep. We arrived late at our former encampment, and found -Col. Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone to see -Col. Doniphan. He brought news, which was currently reported there, -viz. that Gen. Taylor had been overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the -Mexicans, and was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course this was a -Mexican story, told no doubt for effect--and it had its effect upon our -boys, for it made us feel as if we could fight like lions against the -treacherous foe. We waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was -making every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for my own use -to-day a pair of wooden spurs. - -_7th._--This morning after roll-call and breakfast, we fed our horses -and mules, and tried to rest and amuse ourselves. At supper I made some -pancakes, without milk or eggs, unfortunately I put rather too much -_salt_ in my batter. Fifteen men were sent down the river on a scouting -expedition to-night. My name was called to be on guard, so I gathered -up my blanket and went into the line with the rest. I was placed in -first relief, near the river. I walked two hours, then went to bed at -12 o’clock by the guard-fire; I was awakened by the Corporal at three, -and stood till morning. - -_8th._--Prepared my clothes by washing and mending, for our departure. -Boiled some beans and beef for my mess. The weather was very -disagreeable, and we all felt weary of our delay. - -_9th._--While busily engaged fixing up to-day, Col. Doniphan came -on with the artillery and encamped near us. All is now bustle and -excitement, as it is said we shall start in the morning. - -_10th._--Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to-day with the army, -as it is very cold and cloudy. Our boys are making desperate efforts -to amuse themselves. Among other things, our sutler is here with his -establishment, and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint. With some -honorable exceptions, the scene among officers and men may be much -“better imagined than described.” - -_11th._--The whole of Col. Doniphan’s regiment, including the Chihuahua -Rangers, started this morning for the South to join Gen. Wool. We -marched in right order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river. - -_12th._--The wagons not coming in last night, some uneasiness was -expressed by our Commander, when, with fifteen others, I returned to -where we encamped the night before, and found the train just about to -move on. We passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last night -250 mules and 50 yoke of oxen, driven off by the Indians. We came to -our camp and found cooking to be the order of the day. We are about -entering another jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed. - -_13th._--Detained here to have all in complete readiness. The Indians -were at their thievish work again. Last night they drove off some -cattle and mules belonging to the traders. The skill and daring evinced -by these bands of savages exceed belief. They follow the army, and are -always prowling around our camp at night. - -_Sunday, 14th._--Although on mounted guard nearly all night, I made -all the haste I could to eat an early breakfast and saddle up. I was -among the first in the ranks. Here we were told that the burial of two -soldiers, who expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes -longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8 o’clock; came on -the jornada five miles, and halted to feed our horses and mules. I was -in the rear guard behind the prisoners all day--travelled a long and -wearisome journey through the sand until 8 o’clock at night. I ate a -small piece of bread and meat, and spread my blanket at the guard-fire, -where I slept till four. I was awakened by the officer of the watch and -stood till six. I was at last relieved by the sound of the tattoo. - -_15th._--12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast, which was a -cold cut. We again moved on, and came 20 miles through this jornada -and encamped late in the night. No water was as yet to be seen. Our -Sergeant measured to each man a half pint. One man sold his half pint -for 50 cents. - -_16th._--We made an early start, and after marching 15 miles, came -to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses and mules rushed in and -drank all they could get. Ascending the hill before us a spring was -discovered, but the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a slight -shower of rain, with lightning and thunder. - -_17th._--On awaking, the first thing I heard was that a man in our -company was dead. The poor fellow had left a wife and family in -Missouri to serve his country. He was taken sick at El Paso, with the -measles, and had come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the -grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an impressive speech. He -stated that “this was the third time he had been called, on occasions -like the present, to perform the mournful duty to men in his command, -and that it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst,” -&c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor Tolly over with -soap-weed, and filled up the grave. After trampling the dirt and -leveling the ground, we marched off in right order to this spot, where -we shall rest to-day. - -_18th._--Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his horse, to enable -him to go in search. I was rewarded for this favor, by being compelled -to stay behind my company several hours, till he returned with his -horse. We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the command at -a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the top of a small eminence. -It boiled up very curiously in the centre, covering the surface with -bubbles. The temperature about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely -fit to drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the -men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when it got -cold enough. The country still presents a barren appearance, the soil -sterile; the surface rocky and mountainous. We marched 14 miles, and -about sunset, encamped close to a small stream, which supplied a few -poor villagers with water. The people busied themselves in preparing -for us, what they could, viz. a little muskeet brush to cook with, -and corn for our cattle. In crossing this jornada, the teamsters were -obliged to throw away 5000 pounds flour, and leave several wagons -behind--the mules being unable to proceed. - -_19th._--After a journey of such length over uneven ground, the fatigue -of the army induced our Commander to remain in camp to-day. About two -o’clock the wind began to rise, and increased in violence till the -tents were leveled to the ground. We tried to cook by digging pits in -which to place the fire. The sand blowing in clouds, covered our food; -making it gritty and unpleasant to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm -of wind stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unsheltered, we -had to do the best we could, and that was bad enough. We laid down, as -we had often done before, on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on -hillocks and tufts of grass. - -_20th._--The wind having abated, we were all in line at an early -hour--came nine miles through this ranch, to the mouth of another -jornada. Here the same scene of desolation is presented. No cultivation -to be seen any where, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production -except the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm, and the nights -very cold, in this region. - -_21st._--Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs, which are situated -in a ranch, and encamped. The army will here halt a day or two. The -same arrangements are to be made as before. While cooking my meat -and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with 18 others, I was -appointed to go before the command several miles. Hastily despatching -the meal, we mounted and rode out a long distance, where we had to -stand all night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the road side. - -_22d._--I was relieved from duty early this morning by the next detail. -Feeling much disordered from loss of rest and fatigue. I was greatly -obliged to a messmate who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a -piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing--we went into line -by sections of four, and marched 17 miles where we encamped at a place -where the men had water; but none could be spared to the poor horses -and mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the ground and went -to sleep. - -_23d._--Without waiting for refreshment of any kind, we came on to-day -eight miles to a pond, where we watered our horses and mules--we -stopped for the poor animals to graze awhile and then proceeded three -miles, when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Several -antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were fixed up, we boiled -some of the flesh, which made fine eating; the repast was seasoned with -a good appetite; a fast of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry -enough. - -_24th._--In conversation with my Captain--I expressed a wish to go -up a neighboring mountain, as I understood a large Tagoon could be -seen from its summit. He told me to go and make all the observations -I could. Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by climbing -over large rocks, in which were formed several immense caves--some of -them I thought were well fitted to be the resort of robbers. At length -I found myself on the top, and set down to write. At the distance of -three miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in the -bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the left a continuous -range of mountains loom up, whose bare and rugged tops present to -the mind the idea of coldness and desolation. The whole face of the -country is destitute of wood, and verdure, except a species of brush -or thorn bushes. Looking towards our camp, I beheld a long line of -wagons stretching along the road as far as the sight could reach. They -were all in motion, and the sight made me hasten down the mountain at -a brisk pace. It was our army preparing for a start and I did not wish -to be left “solitary and alone,” in that rocky region. In a few minutes -we took up the line of march--came 12 miles and encamped at sunset. We -saw Mexican spies at a distance. The picket guard came in and reported, -that 10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off, ready to give us -battle. - -_25th._--The sound of the reveille started every man to his post by -light. We moved on eight miles to the lake, and watered our horses and -mules. We saw nothing of the Mexicans. The country begins to improve -as we leave the jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes or -ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie grass grows with -some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the soldiers commenced baking bread, -made from the wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind -prevailing--sparks were carried out, which set the dry brush and weeds -in aflame. The Chihuahua Rangers had orders to subdue the fire, and we -commenced threshing it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing -we found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase in spite -of us. The whole command was put in action with their horses, beating -a track, to stop the progress of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the -fire caught the grass on the other side of the track, and the wind -blowing tremendously, the fire was carried in almost every direction. -We then encamped on the burnt ground, off of which the grass had been -burnt, and picketing our horses on the left of the road in the prairie, -we laid down to rest. In a few hours we were awakened to bring our -horses in, for the whole prairie was on fire. Coming out of my tent, a -sight appeared of such magnificence as had never before met my eyes. -It was an opposite mountain on fire, and the whole prairie, as far as -the eye could reach, in flames. A strange glare tinged the clouds, and -all surrounding objects, and presented a scene which was fearfully -grand. It consumed nearly all the grass in the country 15 miles towards -Chihuahua. - -_26th._--We continued winding through the mountain passes and plains -16 miles. Our advance found a coral to-day, in which were 50 sheep -and 15 cattle, driven in from the surrounding neighborhood. They were -immediately butchered for the command, the soldiers being nearly -exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful day for our march. The -wind was so high that we could scarcely see a hundred yards ahead. - -_27th._--The artillery and wagons were kept in front all day, the whole -army being formed in two lines in the rear. We marched in right order -8 miles, and encamped on the margin of a lake. Here we shall halt -till to-morrow. Scouts were sent out in every direction. I was busily -engaged all the evening writing for our boys, who believe themselves -to be on the eve of some engagement with the enemy. Saw several of our -men come in, leading a horse--soon learned that spies being seen by -our advance, Capt. Skillman of the traders’ company, and Capt. Parsons -of the E company from Cole County, with others gave chase and overtook -one. The fellow finding he was likely to become a prisoner, leaped off, -and fled up the mountain leaving his horse and all his rigging behind. -He was elegantly mounted. Col. Mitchell has just informed us that a -battle will be fought to-morrow. - -[Illustration: BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO.] - -_Sunday, 28th._--At sunrise this morning, we took up our line of -march, having learned from our spies that the enemy in great numbers, -had fortified the pass of the river Sacramento, about 15 miles off. -Our train consisting of 315 traders’ wagons, and our Commissary and -company wagons, in all about 400, were formed into four columns, so -as to shorten our lines. The whole command marched in right order -between the columns, thus concealing our force from the enemy. When we -arrived within three miles of their entrenchments, Col. Doniphan made a -reconnoisance of their position, and examined the arrangement of their -forces. This was easily done, as our road led through an open prairie -valley between the high mountains. The pass of the Sacramento is formed -by a point of the mountains on our right, their left extending into -the valley, so as to narrow the valley about one and a half miles. On -our left was a deep, dry channel of a creek, and between these points, -the plain rises abruptly about 50 or 60 feet. The road passes down -the centre of the valley, and in the distance we had a full view of -the Mexican army. On the point of the mountain, they had a battery of -four guns, so elevated as to sweep the plain. On the left, there was -another battery commanding the road, with six pounders and rampart -pieces, mounted on carriages. Their cavalry was drawn up in front of -their redoubts, in the interval of four deep. When we had arrived near -their entrenchments, our columns suddenly diverged to the right, so -as to gain the elevation, which the enemy endeavored to prevent by -moving forward with four pieces of cannon and 1000 cavalry. But our -movements were so rapid, that we not only gained the eminence, but -were formed in order for their reception. Our company (Capt. Hudson’s) -now dismounted, and every eighth man was detailed, to hold horses and -mules. It fell to my lot to hold eight mules. The action now commenced -by a brisk fire from our cannons, doing considerable execution at the -distance of twelve hundred yards, killing fifteen of the enemy, and -disabling one of their guns. Our fire was briskly returned from 14 -pieces of artillery, sending ragged balls, and heavy copper ore. But -being badly aimed they struck the ground about forty or fifty yards -before us, and rebounding passed over our heads without harm, except -slightly wounding two men, and killing several horses and mules in -the rear. Our guns were so well aimed as to compel the enemy to fall -behind the breastworks. We resumed our march in our former order, -diverging as much as possible to the right, to avoid a heavy battery, -and their strongest redoubts, which were on our left, near the common -road. After marching as far as we thought it prudent, without coming -in range of their heavy battery, Capt. Weightman of the artillery, was -ordered to charge it with two 12 lb. howitzers, to be supported by the -cavalry, under Captains Reid, Parsons and Hudson. We then remounted -and charged the battery from right to left, with a brisk and deadly -fire from our rifles. We then advanced to the very brink of their -redoubts, and drove them out with our sabres. The enemy now fell back -on their centre battery, where they made a desperate rally, and gave -us a shower of balls and copper ore, which whizzed over our heads -without doing us any injury except wounding several men and killing -a few mules and horses. Major Clarke was ordered to commence a heavy -fire upon this battery, which being well directed, together with the -rapid advance of our columns, put them to flight over the mountains -in utter confusion, leaving all their cannons, and the ground strewed -with their dead and wounded. Thus ended the battle of Sacramento, -which commenced about three o’clock, and ended about sunset. The -enemy numbered 4220 rank and file, and lost 300 killed 500 wounded, -beside 40 prisoners. The American force consisted of 924 effective -men, 1 killed, 11 wounded. Our success is to be attributed entirely -to the superior skill of our commander. Had he not taken advantage -of position, in keeping out of range of redoubts and batteries, we -should all have shared a common fate, as the black piratical flag was -captured, together with a wagon load of that formidable weapon, the -lariat, which was intended to tie us all to our saddles in case of a -defeat. The Mexicans lost ten pieces of artillery, varying from five -to ten lbs. and seven one lb. culverines. One of the cannon is very -valuable, being composed of silver and brass melted together. They also -lost all their baggage, ammunition, &c., and provisions enough to last -us three months were found in their wagons, together with $4000 in -specie. It was gratifying to see the soldiers shaking hands with their -officers after the engagement and tendering their congratulations to -their commander for his skill and bravery displayed on this memorable -occasion. The Surgeons are now busily engaged in administering relief -to the wounded Mexicans, and it is a sight to see the pile of legs -and arms that have been amputated. The cries and groans of the poor -fellows, are distressing in the extreme. It is a fact, worthy of note, -that the atmosphere here in this mountainous region is so perfectly -pure and clear that a cannon shot can be seen coming, when it is a -considerable distance off, by leaving a blue streak in the air. Many -a soldier saved his life in the battle by dodging the balls as they -came forward. When a flash would be seen from the enemy’s battery, you -could hear the soldiers cry out--“watch the ball boys!--here comes a -ball boys,” and they invariably avoided them, or the slaughter must -have been very great. I saw a ball coming in the direction where I was, -when immediately falling off my mule, it passed just over my saddle -without injury. Our rapid movements seemed to astonish the enemy. Our -four pieces of flying artillery, discharging five times in a minute, -volleys of grape and canister, with chain shots, would rake the -enemy’s redoubts and cut roads through their lines, while our 12 lb. -howitzers throwing a constant shower of bombs into the middle of their -entrenchments, and the unerring aim of our Mississippi rifles, acting -in concert; cast terror and dismay among the cowardly and unprincipled -foe. Our men acted nobly, and in the hand to hand fight in the redoubts -they fought to desperation. Lieutenant Sprawl, our 2d Lieutenant, a man -over six feet high with bared arms, and without his hat, his longhair -and beard streaming in the wind, with sword in hand, was charging the -enemy at every point, when a ball struck his splendid charger, and -he fell. But seizing his carbine he kept up with us on foot. Another -of our men, being unhorsed, and fighting near me, was attacked by a -Mexican who was about to lance him, and the poor fellow’s gun being -discharged, he picked up a rock, and throwing it, struck his enemy on -the head, which felled him to the earth, when he knocked his brains out -with the butt of his gun. These were but common occurrences in that -hard contested fight, where we had to contend with nearly five to one. - -_March 1st._--After spending a comfortable night, feasting on the -good things of our enemy, and making our prisoners bury the dead, we -started with the remains of Major Owings, and after marching four miles -encamped. My mule having received a wound in the loins yesterday, -cannot be found this morning, so I borrowed one of the Commissary. - -_2d._--Placed on mounted guard to precede the army, whose entrance in -the city will take place to-day. Came ten miles; saw the spire of the -Cathedral towering in the distance, with peculiar feelings of delight. -A merrier group could scarcely be pictured than our worthy Col. -Mitchell and his escort. We entered the beautiful city of Chihuahua -about 12 o’clock, and proceeded immediately to the plaza or public -square. The inhabitants are polite, and manifest in various ways the -utmost complaisance, and regard to our soldiery. Of course we see -the fairest specimens of the Mexican character here, and afford us -evidences of superior intelligence, comfort and industry. While the -soldiers were scattered in various directions, seeking refreshments, -I took a walk alone, and seated myself in a quiet nook, fronting the -Cathedral. It is an imposing structure of white marble. It was about -fifty years in building--the production of a gold mine, and cost _three -million dollars_. I felt too much fatigued to write a long description -of even a beautiful church, although, had it been otherwise, such -employment would have been pleasant to me. The tones of the bell are -grand. It strikes the hour, and can be heard at a great distance. At -sundown Col. Doniphan arrived in town with the rest of the command, -all in fine order. The band was playing Washington’s March--just as we -reached the public square, the tune was changed to Yankee Doodle, when -there was a general huzza. We then marched through the town and took up -our quarters on the outskirts. I was placed on picket guard and had to -be up all night--first to watch the prisoners, and then to walk my post -three hours. - -_3d._--All is now tranquil. The funeral of Major Owings took place -to-day. Every thing was conducted with the utmost decency and order. - -_4th._--This morning I sallied forth for a ramble. I went through the -thickest parts of the city, which I should judge contained about 40,000 -inhabitants. The streets cross at right angles, and the houses are -mostly built of the usual sun-dried brick, in Mexican style, with flat -roofs, and close barred windows, as if intended for defence against -street assaults, or rival factions. I was, afterwards, introduced -to some senoras, and drank some coffee with them--they using the -_ardiente_, instead of cream in theirs. - -_5th._--Passing near the public square I encountered Col. Mitchell, -with several officers on horseback, before a handsome building. The -Colonel was earnestly engaged in conversation with a man, who, it -appeared was an Englishman. I soon learned that our Colonel wished to -search the building, but the English gentleman said he should not. -I was called on, with several others who were standing near to form -ranks, and go at once and arm ourselves. We ran to our quarters, and -soon returned well equipped. I had not been in the line more than a -minute, when I saw my entire company, the Chihuahua Rangers, come up. -I, of course, left my position and with them paraded before the house. -The Englishman being still very stubborn and refusing to give up the -keys, the Colonel ordered two pieces of artillery to be brought down -immediately and placed before the door. Turning to look for the man, -I found he had escaped to the top of a house, not far off, where he -stationed himself to watch our movements. He no sooner espied the -cannon, than he ran down in great haste, begging for a few minutes to -open the door, saying “somebody might be killed,” &c. We then entered -peaceably. Magoffin, the trader, whom the authorities of the city -had condemned to death as a traitor, cannot be found. On inquiry, we -learned that he had been sent to Durango. But several are of opinion, -that he has been killed. - -_6th._--I went to the Secretary’s office and wrote letters to my -sisters in Maryland. - -_10th._--For several days past we have been relieved from all extra -duty, only answering to the roll-call night and morning. I have been -busily engaged to-day writing letters for different persons. - -_17th._--During the past week I have had no time to write in my -journal. I have been busy in writing letters for others, and assisting -in writing out requisitions, &c. I received to-night the first number -of the “Anglo Saxon,” a paper printed by our boys, and the first -American newspaper ever published in Chihuahua. On Wednesday the 15th, -the express started from here for the United States. Many weary months -have passed, and we have heard no tidings from home and friends. Truly -a soldier’s lot is a hard one. - -_19th._--I had a chill last night, which ended in a fever. I felt -thankful that I was favored with every attention from Lieut. Sprawl, -who is as kind and generous as he is brave. A few hours sleep recovered -me in some degree from the stupidity in which the fever left me, -and I arose from the stone floor refreshed. I went to church, which -was opened for Mass, but soon returned with a headache, longing for -the simple and sweet worship of my own church at home. An express -consisting of twelve men was sent on to General Taylor to-day. - -_20th._--I took a stroll through the town--went down to the American -Hotel to learn what news was stirring. Nothing is heard from the South. - -_23d._--We have at this time all that is necessary for our comfort, -and nothing to do but attend to our slight duties, and the care of -our mules and horses. A strict guard is kept. The captured cannon is -in charge of the non-commissioned officers, and our company has to -practice target shooting. Being number four I have to touch off the -guns. The concussion jars my head so much that I have to place a quid -of tobacco in _each_ cheek, to prevent it from injuring my teeth, which -are very sore. The companies are all well disciplined, and with our 25 -pieces of artillery, Col. Doniphan says he would defy 10,000 Mexicans. -When not on duty, our men resort to every kind of mischief by way of -amusement. Two pieces of artillery found at this place, were by them, -on yesterday, dismounted and blown up. They were filled with powder and -plugged, and the muzzles being buried in the earth several feet, a slow -match was applied. The reports were terrific. They have also burnt all -the powder. A train, nearly one-fourth of a mile in length, was made -and set off, and which ignited several barrels at its termination. The -poor affrighted Mexicans, meanwhile, ran off crying “no wano, no wano,” -(very bad, very bad.) Another species of fun, consists in collecting -all the dogs that can be found during the day, and carefully shutting -them in a room; at night each dog is brought out, and a large bundle of -fire works fastened to his tail. He is then let loose, amid the general -halloo; and being enveloped in sparks, accompanied with the noise of -small fire arms, wherever he runs in the crowded streets, the Mexicans -fly before him with the utmost consternation. - -_Sunday, April 4th._--This was the appointed morning for us to leave -Chihuahua for the south. But, on account of a bull fight, our trip is -postponed. As soon as church was over, the soldiers hastened to see -this great sight. As I was conscientious in regard to the violation -of the Sabbath, I, of course, staid behind; I was, however, informed -by the men on their return, that five bulls were let loose, but none -were killed. If they cannot strike the animal in some vital part, -they are obliged to let him live. The blows were badly dealt and the -bull escaped. This is a strange mixture of christianity with the -barbarities of heathenism. Card playing, cock fighting, bull baiting, -and dancing, are the chief amusements of these people, and they are -always accompanied with excessive drinking, not unfrequently with -quarrelling and fighting, in which the belligerents are bruised, their -limbs broken, and their lives sometimes destroyed. What an idea of the -character of God must be entertained in the midst of such performances? -He can hardly be regarded as a God of love, whose delight is in the -upright walk and chaste conversation of his people. The service of that -blinded population, comports better with what we might suppose would be -the worship of the devil, were such worship distinctly ordered. Alas! -for the darkness in which so many of our race are enveloped! - -_5th._--The wagons were loaded for our long journey--but a difficulty -in getting our soldiers together detained us till two o’clock, P. M. At -length, every thing being in readiness, we started out of town. Some -of our men imagined themselves commanders in chief, assumed to give -orders, and were otherwise troublesome. We succeeded in reaching a -ranch, twelve miles off, and encamped. - -_6th._--Moved on twenty-five miles, and stopped at a ranch late in the -evening. Putting our horses in a clover field--we spread our blankets -on the ground and rested till morning. - -_7th._--After accomplishing another 25 miles to-day, we erected -our tents close to the walls of a town. Here we were joined by two -strangers, who said they came from a coral, 140 miles off, to inform -us that a large Mexican force of about 10,000 soldiers were on their -way to re-take Chihuahua. They also stated, that Generals Taylor and -Wool had gone far to the south, in the direction of the city of Mexico. -These men being native Americans induced our Colonel to listen to their -story, which, if true, would have placed us in a bad situation. With -one half of our command left behind at Chihuahua, we could be easily -cut off from this point. - -_8th._--This morning we had orders to start back to Chihuahua. After -marching 25 miles reached the second ranch, and encamped. - -_9th._--Our Sergeant woke us all at two o’clock to get our breakfast, -and make an early start. We travelled briskly 36 miles, and arrived at -Chihuahua about four o’clock. Here we are again in the city, at our old -quarters. - -_14th._--I have been employed in writing for our Surgeon, and others, -for several days past. Yesterday we heard that Vera Cruz was taken by -Gen. Scott. Twenty-eight rounds were fired by our artillery-men. - -_15th._--I witnessed to-day the mode of punishment among the Mexicans, -and felt disgusted at the sight. Offenders are tied to a tree and -severely lashed for different offences. I saw several whipped to-day -for horse stealing. At night it commenced raining. The first rain -since we have been in the city. I was too sick to perform the duty of -sentinel. - -_16th._--The morning air being clear and cool I took a walk to relieve -the excessive languor I feel. I have little or no appetite, and my -spirits are very much depressed. I went to the American Hotel, where a -great many questions were asked me. While there I read an advertisement -of a grand ball to be given on Sunday, 18th, entrance $2. It is really -distressing to contemplate the desecration of the Sabbath in this -country. Oh! how I long to be once more in a truly christian land, and -among congenial spirits. - -_Sunday, 18th._--Various exhibitions encountered at every step -throughout the city to-day. Sunday as it is, gambling is the most -prominent. At night the greater part of our men went to the ball. - -_19th._--Drew off some writing for our Doctor; afterwards, with a -messmate, took a bath in the river--still quite sick, and nothing -to eat, but poor beef, with bread and coffee. This stone floor is -particularly hard to rest on. - -_24th._--I went with a Mexican to see the _prison_. He was very polite -and accommodating; he took me through the cells, and showed me the -blocks, and chains, handcuffs, lariats, &c. that had been prepared to -keep all the prisoners safely, which they expected to have taken in the -battle. They were to have been kept here until they could be marched on -foot to the city of Mexico. But they counted their game a little too -soon! The prison is the darkest and most gloomy place I ever saw. - -_Sunday morning, 25th._--Just as the church bells began to ring, our -men geared up their mules, and at 11 o’clock, two companies started -out of town with the artillery, and arrived about three o’clock at the -first ranch. - -_26th._--An early start took us to the second ranch 25 miles. To-night -our second battalion came up. - -_27th._--After marching 36 miles to-day we came to a town called Santa -Cruz, where we encamped. - -_28th._--We lay by here, and wait for the rest of the army, which will -start from Chihuahua to-day. - -_29th._--At day-break we set out, and after marching 21 miles came -to Sousilla, a town situated on the river Couchas, which is, at that -place, a considerable stream. I went with one or two hundred others, -and took a refreshing bath. At night I cooked a supper of coarse -bread, beef and coffee, with the materials of a coral, which we tore -down. - -_30th._--Still travelling on the Rio Couchas. Passed a town called -Los Cruezas, and at the end of 28 miles encamped at the town of San -Rosalia. Col. Doniphan’s first battalion came up to-night. - -_May 1st._--At the sound of the reveille all went in line, and after -roll-call our captain told us to get our arms in good order for -inspection at nine o’clock. Every man was soon busy firing off loaded -guns, cleaning out, &c. To-night I went into town and brought a welcome -repast for my mess, viz. pork-steak and nice bread. - -_2d._--Our Captain, after calling the roll, told us that the reveille -had sounded thus early for a company to go in advance. Came out a few -miles and stopped to inspect a fort the Mexicans had erected to keep -Gen. Wool from marching to Chihuahua. It is nicely finished off, with -port holes for their batteries, &c. The building covers nearly an -acre of ground; but every thing is silent; the place being entirely -deserted. A fatiguing march of 27 miles brought us to a ranch called -Remado, where we passed the night. - -_3d._--The country is still barren between these ranchos, which are -always found in fertile valleys, mostly inhabited. Some muskeet brush -was all we could find on our road to-day; no verdant carpet of grass to -relieve the eye from the strong glare of the rays of the sun pouring on -the sandy plains as we pass along. A late hour brought us to a large -town called Huadaquilla, on the Rio Florida. We travelled 30 miles -to-day. - -_4th._--At ten we left--came out six miles and encamped. On our way -we saw several monuments erected to various saints. A pile of rocks -marks the grave of one great personage. In the centre of the pile is -erected a cross, adorned with artificial flowers. The country around -this town is cultivated; provisions are cheap and plenty. All the -soldiers are now engaged in packing provisions and water; the latter -precious article, it is said, will not be found again till 65 miles are -passed over. At four, P. M., we came on and travelled 25 miles in this -jornada, and laid ourselves down to sleep in the sand, after taking a -cut of meat and bread at nearly 12 o’clock. - -_5th._--By the time it was light our Orderly came around to arouse us -to roll-call. Some poor fellows, half asleep, staggered off into the -ranks. We started and marched 40 miles through a thick dust, when we -came to a pond of brackish water, which is sometimes found in these -deserts. Here we halted for the night. The water was quickly drunk by -our famishing boys, notwithstanding it was a disagreeable mixture of -salt and sulphur. - -_6th._--The fatigue and sufferings of yesterday were not allayed by -a report in camp that several thousand Mexicans were lying in wait a -few miles ahead, in order to cut off our artillery. We marched on ten -miles and stopped on the banks of the Rio Cerro Gordo, where we have -tolerably good water. - -_7th._--I arose from the guard-fire, where I had been stretched the -last three hours dull and sleepy, having been on duty all the former -part of the night; I went to my mess, whom I found eating breakfast. -As soon as we got through, our command started and travelled 30 miles. -Here we stopped at a ranch, near which are several springs bursting -from a bank, the water of which is very clear, but very warm, and of -a most disagreeable taste. A few hundred yards from the camp we saw a -large deserted fort, also a coral, which our boys tore down to cook -with. The face of the country has nothing to recommend it, but a vast -variety of cactus, beautifully in bloom all over the sandy plains. -Covered with dust, I found a bath in the hot springs very refreshing -to-night. - -_Sunday, 9th._--Pursued our way uninterruptedly the past two days and -travelled 40 miles. At night we encamped at a town called Mapemilla. -At our approach the inhabitants fled to the mountains. It was a fine -night, and their fires in the distance, dotting the mountain side, had -a singular and romantic effect. News met us here that Gen. Scott had -whipped Santa Anna, which caused Col. Doniphan to fire a salute of 29 -rounds. - -_10th._--At 3 o’clock this morning the reveille sounded. A little -coarse bread, and coffee without sugar, constituted breakfast, on which -we travelled 30 miles. We halted late at night at a ranch called San -Sebastian, on the Rio Mosas, a stream sufficiently large for swimming. -It was soon covered with our soldiers enjoying this rare luxury. - -_11th._--At an early hour we had to bury two of our men, who died -yesterday. They were found last night (after our fatiguing march of 30 -miles) dead in the wagons. They were buried in a warlike manner. We -crossed the river two miles below the town, and pursued our route 30 -miles to another village, called San Lorenzo. Here we encamped, but -suffered much inconvenience from want of water, having to use it very -sparingly. To-night another grave was opened for another of our men. - -_12th._--As usual, our whole command was put in motion at three -o’clock, and after marching seven miles through a thick dust, had -orders to halt and turn back, for we had left the right road behind. -Our army turned about and travelled several miles until we got right. -At the end of 18 miles we encamped on the Rio Mosas. Here, unable to -join the swimmers from a violent attack of ear-ache, accompanied with -a most painful sore mouth, which latter I have suffered with since -leaving Chihuahua, I went to a Dutch surgeon for advice. He looked in -my mouth a few seconds, and with an air of confidence declared that -_nothing ailed me_. I determined thereafter to bear my pains like a -hero, and almost vowed that I would never pester a Dutchman either for -his sympathy or his prescriptions. - -_13th._--This morning we started early, and after travelling 30 miles -reached a ranch. The first objects that met our eyes were six Indians -lying dead. They had been killed by our advance guard of about 30 rank -and file, under Capt. Reid. The guard was unexpectedly attacked by a -body of Indians, which they repulsed, after killing 13 of their number, -with their chief. He must have been a desperate warrior, for even after -he was shot down, and to the last moment of his life, he tried to use -his bow and arrows. These fellows were seen coming from a gap of the -mountain, some distance off, making direct for our little party, who -went out at full gallop to meet them. A discharge of arrows was met by -a volley from our men. A considerable skirmish now ensued. The Indians -raising the war-whoop, rushed on them, discharging their arrows with -incredible rapidity; but they were forced to retreat, and these bodies -were dragged hither as trophies. - -_14th._--About one o’clock in the night, while our wearied soldiers -slept, two guns were heard. In an instant our Captain jumped to his -feet, and hurriedly went over the ground to wake us all up. In a few -moments every man had on his arms. After waiting some time for the -enemy, news came that one of the Lieutenants was shot through the -hand. It appears that this Lieutenant was officer of the night, and in -his rounds, tried to take a sentinel by surprise. Creeping stealthily -on the ground to the spot, he was told by the sentinel to stop and -give the countersign. No answer being returned, he fired. As soon as -he found that he was shot in the hand he returned the charge on the -sentinel. But no one can tell as yet who this watchful sentinel is. I -made up a fire to prepare coffee. At two o’clock the reveille sounded -for all to saddle up. At four we started, and after marching 25 miles -came in sight of Parras, a large city. Our Adjutant chose a place for -us to encamp, which is in a beautiful grove of ornamental cotton trees. -The scene is new and pleasant. Here are trees, green cornfields, and -running streams. The gardens in and around the city are beautifully -arranged, and _tastefully_ supplied with ripe apricots, oranges and -lemons; also a great variety of flowering shrubs and plants. - -_15th._--We are to pass a day or two here I believe, resting from our -long travel. This morning one of our wagon drivers, who is a sailor, -went up town, and by some means, most unfortunately, offended several -of the Mexican gentlemen. Complaint was made to the alcalde, who -ordered Jack to be taken to the caliboose and flogged, going in person -to see it done. But Jack knocked him down and broke his sabre in -pieces--whipping several others who came to the rescue, and finally -walked off to camp completely victorious. Word was brought to Col. -Doniphan about the conduct of his man, who gravely told the people that -if Gen. Wool could do any thing with his men, it was more than he could -with his. He said it was now too late for him to keep them in order, -therefore, he should leave on Monday. - -_Sunday, 16th._--Preparations are going on in different departments -for the renewal of our march to-morrow. The expectation of soon -encountering Generals Taylor and Wool, appears to inspire our men with -a desire to look decent. Old clothes are being washed--sundry holes in -deerskin pants are in the process of repair, and I think we shall not -look so very ragged, after all. - -_17th._--Moved out of town at three o’clock, P. M. After marching -five miles through a broken, bare country, we came to a house, whose -_shingled_ roof indicated that its builder had been educated in the -United States. We found it even so, although the man was a Mexican. -We made a journey of 25 miles to-day, and had a supper of excessively -tough beef, and coarse bread. - -_18th._--On our way, very early, as usual--made 18 miles with a severe -ear-ache, from which I have suffered almost constantly for several -weeks past. Strolling out after the tents were fixed up, I saw some -soldiers walking along with a man in front, whom I learned they were -about to drum out of service. He proved to be a teamster, and not a -volunteer. He had, without provocation, struck several Mexicans in -Parras. The alcalde sending on an express to Gen. Wool for protection, -induced Col. Doniphan to settle the business thus. He was made to walk -before three armed men, behind whom, several bugles performed a doleful -ditty. When they arrived at the outskirts, the Captain ordered a halt, -and proclaimed that the man was drummed out of service for misbehavior. -Whereupon he ordered the men in front to kick him. The punishment -having been inflicted, the poor fellow was turned off, to find a -shelter where he could. - -_11th._--To-night we are encamped at a ranch, almost overflowed with -water which is coming down in a rush, in consequence of a heavy rain in -the mountains. Made to-day 25 miles. - -_21st_--Yesterday and to-day we pursued our journey without -intermission. At night we encamped where Gen. Wool had stationed 1000 -men as picket guard. We received a treat in the shape of nice American -flour and mess pork, as rations. - -_22d._--I rode with several others to Gen. Wool’s camp. On the way we -passed over the battle ground of Buena Vista, and saw the remains of -hundreds of Mexicans thrown in heaps and covered over with cactus. -These remained undisturbed by the wolves while they had disinterred our -buried Americans and devoured them; these animals make a practice of -keeping in the rear of our advancing armies, and always prefer eating -our men after death to the Mexicans. I spent an hour in contemplating -the desolations of war--picked up a few Spanish coins, a watch key, -cross, &c., with several other little matters, as mementos. Gen. Wool’s -quarters were to be seen in the distance. After spending an hour or -two in his camp, I returned to our boys, whom I found assembled in a -congregation, and Capt. Reid holding forth in a speech, trying all -his might, to get some of our men to volunteer again, their term -being nearly expired. This morning every preparation is made for the -reception of Gen. Wool, who is expected to receive the command. All in -right order, we marched out, the artillery in front, our company (the -Chihuahua Rangers) next, and so on. As he rode up, the artillery-men -fired a salute, and while passing along the lines with his escort, -we had orders to “present arms.” After the parade was over, we were -marched back to _camp_, where the General came to inspect the captured -cannon, and see the black flag, taken at the battle of Sacramento. At -night we drew rations of bacon and dried apples, which good things, -some of our boys thought were given as a _bribe_ to induce them to -re-enlist. - -_Sunday, 23d._--We left at an early hour, and as we passed through -Gen. Wool’s encampment, we turned over to him our American artillery, -consisting of six pieces, received at Santa Fe. We retained the Mexican -cannon, viz. 17 pieces taken at the battle of Sacramento, and one piece -taken at Bracito, and marched on 12 miles to Saltillo, a large town -among the mountains. The weather is warm and pleasant, and in right -order we passed through, and proceeded on eight miles, we encamped at -night in a wheat field. We saw to-day several deserted ranchos. - -_24th._--After a long and fatiguing march of 32 miles, we stopped at a -deserted ranch to pass the night. In winding through the mountain pass -to-day, we turned aside to see the fortifications which had been thrown -up, to stop the progress of Gen. Taylor to Saltillo. - -_25th._--An early start, and fatiguing journey of 25 miles brought us -within four miles of Monterey. From our camp we have a full view of the -city and palace of the Bishop. All this day our road lay through the -narrow pass of the mountains, one of which is volcanic, and has been -burning for several years. A heavy rain descended to-night, drenching -us completely, and in the midst of which a grave was dug for a poor -soldier, who has been sick ever since we left Chihuahua. - -_26th._--Through a heavy wind we rode into town and stopped to see the -citadel and wall so bravely scaled by our troops after the enemy was -driven from their redoubts. From this palace, a lovely and extensive -view of the city and surrounding country is presented. The southern -fruits and flowers are growing in great luxuriance. After our men were -satisfied with an inspection, we marched through the famous town of -Monterey to Gen. Taylor’s camp, where we arrived at 12 o’clock. We -found the old hero encamped in the woods. Immediately on our arrival -he came to us, in company with Col. Doniphan, to see the trophies of -our victories. I was fortunate enough to grasp the hand of the old -General. In the afternoon several thousand pack mules were sent out -with provisions for Gen. Wool. - -_27th._--At day-break the roll-call was called, and Capt. Hudson told -us to saddle up, and get ready to start. All was in readiness, when -orders came that we should be delayed till 12 o’clock. A few minutes -before that hour Gen. Taylor with his escort rode up, and passed along -the lines, with his hat off, to review us. We presented sabres, and -then started on our way, the General escorting us some distance from -his camp. After he left us, we pursued our march through a country -well covered with hackberry and other trees. A long route of 32 miles -brought us to a ranch, where we halted for the night. - -_28th._--Arrived at a deserted ranch late in the morning, after -passing 40 miles over a most dreadful road. Being in the rear guard, -I and eleven others, were obliged to assist the wagons up the hills, -by pushing at the wheels. All along this route decaying bodies and -skeletons of men, are lying. Some of the bodies still had their -clothing on, and the stench was almost intolerable. The road was also -strewed with mules, which had died in numbers on their way to Monterey. - -_29th._--The road is only interesting from association. Many a brave -man has passed it never to retrace his steps. Six miles from our -last stopping place we reached Seralvo. Here we found a regiment -of volunteers on the march to join Gen Taylor. We waited till the -afternoon to feed our horses and mules; then marched 14 miles to -another deserted ranch and stopped to sleep. We saw, on our way many -ranchos and villages tenantless and destroyed. While we were at -Seralvo, a Mexican was caught, who belonged to the gang that murdered -the teamsters, and burned up 150 wagons, which were on their way to the -army. At three o’clock, he was brought out in the plaza, and placed -against the wall. A file of six men, (the Texian Rangers,) stood some -ten yards off. The prisoner was told by the Colonel that his time was -at hand. He was then ordered to turn his back. This he not only refused -to do, but struck fire and lighted his cigar. The word was given--all -fired--and he fell dead. Three balls entered his breast, and three his -head. A Texian, whose brother had been murdered in the wagon train, -gave a five dollar gold piece to take the place of one who was chosen -to do this melancholy business. - -[Illustration: EXECUTION OF A MEXICAN CHIEF.] - -_Sunday night, 30th._--We have stopped at a town called Mier. I felt -very weary after a travel of 36 miles. This place is notorious on -account of a battle that was gained by the Texians. Our Rangers were -highly elated in the thoughts of their success and they became so drunk -that the defeated Mexicans took them prisoners, and marched them off to -the city of Mexico. So much for the sale of rum. We met with a cordial -reception at this place. - -_31st._--We encamped in sight of Camargo at two o’clock to-day. We -crossed the river St. Pon in a ferry boat, which was pulled by means -of ropes. The crossing occupied about two hours, when our troops and -artillery were landed. This town is well fortified. It is the principal -depot for supplies to the army, which come up this river in small -steamers. River water is drank, although rendered very filthy by the -carcasses of mules and horses, which are thrown into it. To-day one -poor fellow was buried, who had been sick a long time. Many a hard jolt -in the rough wagon, and hour of thirst and weariness had he--but he -sleeps quietly and peacefully in his lonely rest on the banks of the -St. Pon. - -_June 1st._--On our way to the Rio Grande, this morning one of our men -was shot by a party of Mexicans, who had concealed themselves in the -bushes. He was riding alone, when he was fired upon. The charge entered -his hand and breast, and he fell dead. Capt. Reid at the head of 50 -men, went after the murderers, and soon returned with six of them. They -are to be kept in close confinement. - -_2nd._--Our officers were in an unpleasant dilemma. They did not know -how to dispose of the prisoners, and after some debate, they concluded -to turn them loose. A file of soldiers was detailed for that purpose. -They took them some miles off, and soon returned, announcing that _they -had turned them loose_. At 4 o’clock we left, and travelled all night -through a thick forest of muskeet trees and brushwood. About sunrise -we arrived at Columbus, where we found several steamers ready for us. -Many of us were miserably disordered from our weary midnight march. We -encamped on the Rio Grande. This evening our cannon was sent down the -river two miles to be shipped. - -_3d._--Orders were received at an early hour for the troops to bring -forward their saddles, rigging, &c., to be valued. A most unsightly -mass was soon presented, the dilapidated articles were gathered in -a heap. Our Sergeant gave notice he should value them as condemned -property, it being impossible to transport them. A large fire was then -made, and all were consumed. Our horses were placed in charge of a Mr. -Van Bibber, who for a stipulated sum engaged to drive them through -Texas to Missouri, and leave them at any point we might designate. We -walked a mile to the beach, where several steamers awaited us. The -sick went immediately on board. Two or three companies started, while -the rest of us were detained till very late to assist in shipping the -cannon. Orders were given that we should remain all night, so we went -again on shore, spread our blankets on the beach, and spent the night -rather uncomfortably. - -_4th._--It commenced raining at 3 o’clock this morning. After eating a -breakfast of coffee and a few hard crackers, we hurried on board the -steamer. Here we found both cabin and deck crowded with men. Our little -steamer started in the midst of a heavy rain, rendering every thing -exceedingly unpleasant. Night came on and no cooking could be done, so -we went on shore, erected our tents, ate our suppers and rested quietly -through the night. - -_5th._--The bell rang at 3 o’clock for us to come on board which we -accomplished in the course of an hour. One fellow being rather slow, -was left behind, but he regained the boat before she had gone two -miles. Fortunately for him an accident happened to the wheel, which was -found to be broken, thus detaining us for repairs several hours. We did -not reach Matamoras till two o’clock. Here we stopped but a very few -minutes, and proceeded on till sunset. The boat now stopped to take in -wood, and the Captain informed us that he should leave at moonrise. We -laid down on deck on our blankets. - -_Sunday, 6th._--I was awakened at one o’clock by the deck hands to make -room to haul in the foot plank. I found myself drenched with filthy -water, which had run under me as I slept. Quietly folding up my blanket -I thought I would make no complaint, as I was near my journey’s end. -About sunrise we reached the Balize, when all hands landed and erected -the tents. After breakfast, with a number of others, I went to bathe in -the sea. We let the breakers pass over our heads. They came with such -force, that in my present reduced state, I found it difficult to stand -up under them. Nor could I remain long in the water. - -_7th._--We are encamped on the banks of the Rio Grande, eight miles -from the shipping, which is on the opposite side of this narrow neck of -land. - -_8th._--A regiment of regulars landed to-day, on their way to the seat -of war. No ship has appeared as yet to take us off. - -_9th._--This morning we had orders to start for Brazos Santiago, nine -miles from this place. We had not proceeded far through the deep sand, -when it became necessary for those who had the remnant of shoes, to -pull them off, on account of the sand gathering in them, it being -above the ankle at every step. Our feet became badly blistered by the -heat and friction. Most gladly did I spread my blanket on the sand and -enjoy a night of rest, after the fatigues of the day. We are not yet -at the end of this uncomfortable journey. The shipping is in sight, -and a short march in the morning will relieve the weary teams of their -burdens. - -_10th._--We are all on board--artillery, baggage, and a motley crew -of 250 men, with unshaved faces, ragged and dirty, but all in fine -spirits, save a few poor fellows, whose thin visages show the ravages -of disease and suffering. - -_11th._--The past has been a memorable night. For suffering I have -not experienced its equal in all my peregrinations through life. In -the brig, on board of which we took passage, there were 100 bunks (a -slight elevation made of plank) for the soldiers to sleep on. When I -got in mine, the crowd was so great and the air so oppressive, that I -thought I would get out, and take a few pulls at the fresh atmosphere. -Groping along in the dark, I endeavored to find some place of egress, -but the whole gangway was strewed with men, and I was forced to return, -amid a shower of _blessings_ from the poor fellows, on whom I had the -misfortune to tread. I laid the rest of the night in this hot place, -more dead than alive. There was not the slightest air, and I was -covered with a profuse perspiration. - -_12th._--An inspection of this brig, which was beautiful in its -exterior, convinced me that it was a filthy place indeed; especially -between decks. It was certainly worse than a hog-pen, for just above -our bunks, there was a sty, in which were several of the real material. -Two small fires were built for the soldiers to cook with, and so many -crowded around them, all anxious to be served, that a long time elapsed -before I could get my coffee. As a matter of convenience we were -supplied with hard crackers and molasses. This diet only increased my -disease, and I turned a longing eye on a large turtle which had been -killed and was being served up for our officers, and the inmates of the -cabin. - -_13th._--Our allowance of water was a coffee pot full twice a day for -coffee, and a pint apiece for each man to drink; a hogshead had been -drawn upon deck for our use. There is a guard kept throughout each day, -over this hogshead of miserable water, not fit for horses to drink. It -was with mingled feelings of admiration and sorrow that I saw our brave -fellows, who had borne the fatigues of the march, and the strong blows -of the battle, come humbly around the hogshead, which was a central -point of attraction, and ask for a little cup of water, when they were -almost famished, and could drink several pints were it allowed them. It -is a gloomy Sabbath evening--nearly calm. - -_14th._--We are running S. E. by E., though the boat scarcely glides -along, there being a calm. It seems that the water is becoming scarcer -to-day. The Captain has directed that a quart only shall be given to -each man for all purposes. And it is to last 24 hours. When this was -announced one of the men muttered something which I did not hear, but -which the Captain disliked; for he told us all, that if any one made -another threat, he would blow his brains out as quick as he would shoot -a rattlesnake. When this threat was heard the men all roared out in -a hearty laugh. The Captain was of middle size, somewhat corpulent, -swarthy in complexion, and blind in his right eye. He was rough in -his manners, but talked very little, especially to us, privates. He -is master of the brig and is employed by government to convey troops -across the gulf. His name is Woodsides. This morning about a pint of -water was issued to each man. Of course, no coffee is made. We mixed a -little vinegar with some water, and with crackers and molasses, made -out our supper. Two dolphins were caught by the sailors, and one of our -men caught a young shark. Another turtle is served up for the cabin. It -was so warm that I could not sleep in my bunk, but lay in the gangway, -on my blanket. At midnight a steamer came alongside, and the Captain -took on board several barrels of water. It was truly a blessing for us. - -_15th._--Coffee and fried shark for breakfast, but a dreadful sore -mouth (which I fear is the scurvy) makes the eating a painful -performance. Every indication of land was near. At 12 o’clock the -Captain said we were 80 miles from the Balize. In anticipation of a -storm, the sails were furled, but a little sprinkle of rain was all, -and we again spread our canvass to the breeze. A sailor was sent aloft -to see if the light house was in sight, and after remaining in the -cross trees two hours, he came down and said he saw it. A short time -after the cry was heard, “the pilot boat is coming.” Sails were furled, -and the pilot was soon on board. In the meantime some one cried “three -cheers for Capt. Woodsides!” The cry was echoed by the crowd, and Capt. -Woodsides looked bullets. A flag was placed on the bow, a steamer came -alongside and towed us over the bar, where our Captain anchored. We -now draw water up the sides of the ship, for we are in the Mississippi -river, 100 miles from New Orleans. The water is good and there is -plenty of it, as the river is full. Every man has just as much as he -can use, and we use it freely enough. After supper I went to my bunk, -but found it too warm to rest in, so I took my blanket, and laid down, -as usual, in the gangway--but not being able to stretch my feet out, in -consequence of a sack of bacon in the way, I got up and searched about, -and at length found an empty bunk of some one who had gone on deck to -spend the night. I felt weak and sick from the heat. - -_16th._--We drew our water from the river to get some breakfast, the -sailors are washing off the deck, and if any man happens in the way, -he is sure of having a bucket full thrown on him; of course several of -our boys have had a good drenching. At 8 o’clock a steamer took us in -tow. As we proceeded up the Mississippi, we beheld on its banks large -plantations of the sugar cane which present a lovely contrast with some -countries over which I have marched. On the left side of the river is -Fort Jackson, now nearly in ruins, but still a beautiful place. With -several of our men I slept on the deck of the steamer. We were all in -good spirits at the prospect of getting home, though the want of a -change of clothes at this particular juncture is keenly felt. Some are -covered with filth, and vermin, which have kept their hiding places -within our garments, for many a long day. - -_17th._--We are now among the thick settlements, and sugar plantations -which line the river as we approach the city. I remained most of the -night on deck, and ate an early breakfast of the usual diet. Afterwards -Capt. Hudson had one of the big guns taken up, and fired a salute as we -passed a pretty little village. We are now on the site of the battle -ground, where General Jackson fought the English in 1814--continued -our course up the river, and fired several times. At last, we were -safely landed on the wharf in New Orleans. Upon my head there was no -hat, having lost my last remnant overboard in the gulf. My pants, I -had thrown away three days before, because (being composed of deerskin -worn into tatters,) I despaired of making them look decent. A pair of -drawers, rather the worse for wear, and an old overcoat, constituted my -dress. If, to this description of my person I add that my hair, beard, -and mustachios, had been left to vegetate undisturbed ever since I left -Fort Leavenworth, then some idea may be formed of the accomplished -soldiers of Col. Doniphan’s command. - -_18th._--In company with twelve others I got in an omnibus to search -for some clothes and quarters; came three miles to a large clothing -establishment, where our wants as to garments were soon supplied. The -barber next exercised his skill, and it was with many an amusing jest -and laugh that we regarded each others altered and improved appearance. -Comfortable quarters were secured, and to-night I am reposing in a -quiet boarding house. Here I feel that no homage of my soul is profound -enough to render due adoration to that gracious Providence Who has -protected and guided me, while marching over the wild plains, and -through the mountain passes of Mexico. - - “Deserts in vain opposed our onward course; - O’er hostile lands and wild untravelled wastes, - Our journey we pursued, nor feared the floods, - Through deep ravines that flow; dire banked with death; - Nor mountains in whose jaws destruction grinned. - Though floods rapacious roaring as they rolled, - And mountains huge and rough were circled round - By roving bands of restless savage foes.” - -_22nd._--On Sunday last I went to the M. E. Church and listened to an -excellent sermon. I was kindly invited by a stranger, who introduced -himself to me, to dine and spend the evening with him. I complied with -his request and was pleasantly entertained. After tea I returned to -my boarding house, which is kept by a Mr. Wren, and whose charge is -moderate, viz. $4 per week. On my first introduction here I committed -a blunder, the thought of which has frequently caused me to smile. -It shows the contrast between a camp life and the more polished -proceedings of life in the city. When I was called to the first meal, -I seated myself at the table in the presence of my hostess, and -commenced operations as I supposed in a manner the most polite and -refined. Casting a glance at the lady I observed that she was eyeing -me with a curious interest. The smile that played upon her lip told me -that she was amused at some awkwardness of mine or some oddity in my -appearance. And what was my surprise when I found that I had jerked my -old knife from my pocket and was cutting my meat placed upon my bread -in my usual way. The habit had been fixed upon me, and notwithstanding -the neat arrangements of the table I could not resist the propensity to -indulge in my camp customs. - -_26th._--On board the steamer Louisville bound for Cincinnati. The -boat is crowded, but a mattress on which to lie is a luxury. A few -hours ago, I parted with many of my fellow soldiers and friends, with -feelings which it is impossible for me to describe. I am not in a -situation to continue with the regiment until it reaches its final -destination. My mouth is so sore that the least effort to masticate my -food is very painful, and I cannot eat, now that I have before me all -the luxuries of life; and even if I could it would be improper for me -to do so, on account of a long continued diarrhœa and pain in my breast -and side. I feel that I am greatly changed when I compare the present -with the time when I last glided over this beautiful stream. Then so -full of health and anticipations of pleasures and happiness, now, a -sick soldier--a mere skeleton of a man, bronzed by the burning rays of -a Mexican sun, and worn down by the prolonged fatigue of travelling, -watching and toil. I regret very much that I cannot go to St. Louis, as -requested by Col. Doniphan, where an enthusiastic reception is awaiting -him. To express myself in _measured terms_ about our Commander, would -not be expressive of my feelings, and I feel how utterly incompetent -I am to utter his eulogy. The man who can familiarise himself with -the poorest private, by some kind word, or ride among the troops, -and make us forget that we were hungry or thirsty by some pleasant -converse, in our long and toilsome march;--the man who can forget his -own personal safety in the hour of danger, and rise superior to every -embarrassment--who can be prepared for every emergency, by superior -skill in the tactics of war--as well as a refined sense of honor, and -an open suavity of manner, not only leading captive the hearts of his -entire command, but thousands of the hostile foe--such a man is a -treasure to society, an honor to his country. And, such a man, is the -brave Doniphan. It was with the feelings of a brother or a friend to -whom I owed many obligations, that I grasped the hand of this great -man, who kindly wished me a safe return to my family. - -_27th._--Our noble steamer has made good headway up the river, passed -Baton Rouge, and at nine o’clock at night came in sight of Natchez. - -_28th._--Passed the Grand Gulf at 10, and at 2 got to Vicksburg. -The pleasure of feasting my eyes on scenes so lovely, and which are -presented by a trip to the “Father of Waters,” compensates for any -little inconvenience arising from our crowded state. - -_30th._--At this time we are near Memphis. There is some excitement on -board. A man laboring under the effects of mania potu is quite crazy, -and has attempted several times to jump overboard. Just now he entered -the ladies’ cabin and struck his wife; one of our officers interfered, -and soon placed him on his back. But a further attempt to kill his -child made it necessary to secure him. With several others I entered -the ladies’ cabin, and helped to tie this _gentleman_. He made much -useless resistance. - -_July 1st._--Slept but little--the surrounding bustle and noises -mingled strangely with dreamy anticipations of soon receiving the -cordial welcome of friends, that I fondly think that are eagerly -awaiting me in my native home. - -_West River, July 10th._--Let no brave soldier say he cannot shed tears -of joy, when clasped in the arms of his aged, widowed mother, after an -absence of nearly two years, in which he has encountered the perils of -both land and sea--travelling nearly 6000 miles, 2200 being through the -heart of an enemy’s country, and witnessing death in every shape and -feature. - -It were an endless task to attempt any thing like a minute description -of that part of Mexico through which we travelled. Our route lay for -the most part, on the Rio Grande del Norte, whose head waters rise in -the Green Mountains, several hundred miles above Santa Fe. It forms -the western boundary of Texas, and can be easily forded at almost any -point above El Paso. In the dry season it is extremely low, and can be -of very little importance for navigation, except near its mouth, which -flows into the Gulf of Mexico. It is thought this river has a course -of from 15 to 1800 miles. The country is elevated: being traversed -by a range of mountains extending far to the northward. Among the -inhabitants, I saw every shade of complexion, from a dark swarthy, or -yellow, to the palest white. But few are handsome among the ladies; and -this is principally to be attributed to their great love of coloring -the skin with red paint. The mountaineers are mostly poor, and almost -universally destitute of every thing beyond the bare necessaries of -life. Their flocks and herds constitute their principal riches, and -their implements of husbandry are all of the most simple character. -Their ploughing such as it is--is effected by a wooden plough, to which -is attached two or four oxen, and the wheat is slightly covered over, -having been previously sown on the hard ground. There are some fertile -valleys in this mountainous range, but the poor simple inhabitants -have very little idea of taking advantage of the natural resources of -their country. After we left Chihuahua, fields of cotton and corn, -interspersed at intervals with the sugar cane, presented themselves. -The ranchos are always about a day’s journey apart, and the whole -aspect of nature in these delightful spots, is one of the most inviting -that can be imagined, as a field of operation, for the industry and art -of man. The soil here is fertile, and what is generally termed bottom -land; and with proper culture would be made as productive as any of -our western lands, as the climate is more genial. They grow only a few -vegetables, of which the red pepper appears to be a favorite, these -they string and hang on the outsides of their houses so thick that on -approaching I frequently thought I should see a painted dwelling, but -was to see only a miserable dirty hut. The mines of Mexico afford her -principal wealth, but of this the poorer classes obtain but little, -they are kept in ignorance and degradation by a government which has -borne the name of Republican, but which every one who sojourns in that -country must soon discover to be a mockery, for the mass of the people -are subject alone to the will of the Roman clergy, and are not free to -act. There is no slave in any of our Southern States whose situation -they have not reason to envy. The women are more degraded if possible -than the men, and more slovenly in their appearance, and while this is -the case in any country the morals of the people must remain at a low -grade. Since my return, I have heard of the enthusiastic reception of -Col. Doniphan at St. Louis, an account of which I annex as published in -the Baltimore American. Our business was not, however, to see all that -was worth seeing, but to hurry on to the place we started for and when -arrived at that to make arrangements to hurry on again. - - - - -COL. DONIPHAN’S MARCH. - - -At the recent reception of the Missouri volunteers under Col. Doniphan -at St. Louis, the address of welcome was delivered by Mr. Senator -Benton. The speech is characteristic--exhibiting that clear and graphic -narrative and those strong and concentrated expressions for which the -Senator is remarkable. - -The orator gave an outline of the long march of this gallant -regiment--first, a thousand miles to New Mexico, which became -a starting point of a new departure. Then Chihuahua was aimed -at--Chihuahua, a rich and populous city of nearly thirty thousand -souls, the seat of the government of the state of that name, and -formerly the residence of the Captains General of the Internal -Provinces under the vice-regal government. In advancing towards -Chihuahua the adventurous regiment encountered incredible hardships. -They passed over the desert called _el jornada de los muertos_--the -journey of the dead--an arid plain of ninety miles strewed with the -bones of animals perished of hunger and thirst and marked by continual -mementos of men who had fallen victims to the perilous way. They fought -the enemy at the Bracito, and gained a decisive victory although -opposed by superior numbers strong in cavalry and artillery. Again at -Sacramento the intrepid band fought and conquered a vastly superior -force. Mr. Benton calls that victory “one of the military marvels of -the age.” At length Chihuahua is reached and taken; and there the bold -adventurers must pause to determine which way next they shall direct -their steps. They had occupied a city about as far from St. Louis as -Moscow is from Paris. Let Col. Benton’s graphic narrative be heard: - -“Chihuahua gained, it became, like Santa Fe, not the terminating point -of a long expedition, but the beginning point of a new one. Gen. Taylor -was somewhere--no one knew exactly where--but some seven or eight -hundred miles towards the other side of Mexico. You had heard that he -had been defeated--that _Buena Vista_ had not been a _good prospect_ -to him. Like good Americans you did not believe a word of it; but like -good soldiers, you thought it best to go and see. A volunteer party -of fourteen, headed by Collins of Boonville, undertake to penetrate -to Saltillo, and to bring you information of his condition. They set -out. Amidst innumerable dangers they accomplish their purpose; and -return. You march. A vanguard of one hundred men, led by Lieut. Colonel -Mitchell, led the way. Then came the main body, (if the name is not a -burlesque on such a handful,) commanded by Col. Doniphan himself. - -“The whole table land of Mexico, in all its breadth, from west to -east, was to be traversed. A numerous and hostile population in -towns--treacherous Cumanches in the mountains--were to be passed. Every -thing was to be self-provided--provisions, transportation, fresh horses -for remounts, and even the means of victory--and all without a military -chest, or even an empty box, in which government gold had ever reposed. -All was accomplished. Mexican towns were passed, in order and quiet: -plundering Cumanches were punished: means were obtained from traders to -liquidate indispensable contributions: and the wants that could not be -supplied, were endured like soldiers of veteran service. - -“I say the Cumanches were punished. And here presents itself an episode -of a novel, extraordinary, and romantic kind--Americans chastising -savages for plundering people who they themselves came to conquer, -and forcing the restitution of captives and of plundered property. -A strange story this to tell in Europe, where back-woods character, -western character, is not yet completely known. But to the facts. In -the muskeet forest of the _Bolson de Mapimi_, and in the sierras around -the beautiful town and fertile district of Parras, and in all the open -country for hundreds of miles round about, the savage Cumanches have -held dominion ever since the usurper Santa Anna disarmed the people; -and sally forth from their fastnesses to slaughter men, plunder cattle, -and carry off women and children. An exploit of this kind had just been -performed on the line of the Missourians’ march, not far from Parras, -and an advanced party chanced to be in that town at the time the news -of the depredation arrived there. It was only fifteen strong. Moved by -gratitude for the kind attentions of the people, especially the women, -to the sick of General Wool’s command, necessarily left in Parras, and -unwilling to be outdone by enemies in generosity, the heroic fifteen, -upon the spot, volunteered to go back, hunt out the depredators, and -punish them, without regard to numbers. A grateful Mexican became their -guide. On their way they fell in with fifteen more of their comrades; -and, in short time, seventeen Cumanches killed out of sixty-five, -eighteen captives restored to their families, and three hundred and -fifty head of cattle recovered for their owners, was the fruit of this -sudden and romantic episode. - -“Such noble conduct was not without its effect on the minds of the -astonished Mexicans. An official document from the Prefect of the place -to Captain Reid, leader of this detachment, attests the verity of the -fact, and the gratitude of the Mexicans; and constitutes a trophy of a -new kind in the annals of war. Here it is in the original Spanish, and -I will read it off in English. - -“It is officially dated from the Prefecture of the Department of -Parras, signed by the Prefect Jose Ignacio Arrabe, and addressed to -Capt. Reid, the 18th of May, and says: - -“‘At the first notice that the barbarians, after killing many, and -taking captives, were returning to their haunts, you generously and -bravely offered, with fifteen of your subordinates, to fight them on -their crossing by the Pozo, executing this enterprise with celerity, -address and bravely worthy of all eulogy, and worthy of the brilliant -issue which all celebrate. You recovered many animals and much -plundered property; and eighteen captives were restored to liberty and -to social enjoyments, their souls overflowing with a lively sentiment -of joy and gratitude, which all the inhabitants of this town equally -breathe, in favor of their generous deliverers and their valiant -chief. The half of the Indians killed in the combat, and those which -fly wounded, do not calm the pain which all feel for the wound which -your excellency received defending christians and civilized beings -against the rage and brutality of savages. All desire the speedy -re-establishment of your health; and although they know that in your -own noble soul will be found the best reward of your conduct, they -desire also to address you the expression of their gratitude and high -esteem. I am honored in being the organ of the public sentiment, and -pray you to accept it, with the assurance of my most distinguished -esteem. - -“‘God and Liberty!’” - -“This is a trophy of a new kind in war, won by thirty Missourians, and -worthy to be held up to the admiration of christendom.” - -The regiment arrived at Gen Taylor’s camp at Monterey, and reported -themselves ready for duty. They were prepared to go with the hero of -Buena Vista to San Luis Potosi, or Zacatecas, or the city of Mexico. -They regarded not their fatigues nor the approaching expiration of -their term of service. “But unhappily,” says Mr. Benton, “the conqueror -of Palo Alto Resaca de la Palma, Monterey and Buena Vista, was not -exactly in the condition that the Lieutenant General, might have been, -intended him to be. He was not at the head of 20,000 men! he was not at -the head of any thousands that would enable him to march! and had to -decline the proffered service. Thus the long marched and well fought -volunteers--the rough, the ready, and the ragged--had to turn their -faces towards home, still more than two thousand miles distant.” - -The last nine hundred miles of the land march from Chihuahua to -Matamoras was made in forty-five days with seventeen pieces of -artillery, eleven of which had been taken from the enemy. During all -their long march this regiment of hardy soldiers received from the -Government not a dollar of pay; they furnished for the most part their -own supplies and forage and clothing, and yet brought back nearly their -whole number. “You marched farther than the farthest,” says Mr. Benton, -“you have fought as well as the best, left order and quiet in your -train, and cost less money than any.” - -Col. Doniphan made an eloquent address in reply to the oration of -welcome, and towards the close of it, he turned to his men, the -companions of his toils and dangers, and said: - -“You have endured much toil and hardship. It is now about to terminate. -You have arrived once more in the land of civilized society, and again -we are citizens mingling with our fellow-citizens. Your lot has been a -hard one in many respects. - -“Before reaching New Mexico, by two hundred miles, you were on half -rations, and never afterwards, for a single day, during our long and -arduous march to Saltillo, did you receive full rations. Yet all this -you have borne, and you have borne it with fortitude. The order which -you received to march in Major Gilpin’s command, with a large column, -over the Sierra Madre, covered with perpetual snow--proceeding on your -march on shortened allowance, without tents or transportation, and many -other comforts, because the Government was unable to furnish them; yet -you bore it all, and were ready to resume your march in two days on the -city of Chihuahua. You have travelled over five states of Mexico, and -five very large ones, in point of territory. - -“Perhaps the citizens of St. Louis do not know what a Bonava is, but -I will answer for every man in my command, knowing what they are. I -may assure you, had you crossed them, you too, would have known what -they are. The shortest one that we crossed was fifty miles and one -ninety-five miles, which we crossed in three days in December, without -wood, without water, without tents, at an elevation of 7000 feet above -the Atlantic ocean. In sending expresses to the distance of 600 miles, -when I was unable to furnish them with the means of carrying provision -and other comforts with them over immense sand prairies covered with -snow, I have never made a detail, but all were volunteers, or when I -have sent out parties for the purpose of watching the enemy who have -had to starve for days, I never made a detail in this column, but all -were volunteers, and I am proud to say it.” - - - - -TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES: - - - Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_. - - Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized. - - Archaic or variant spelling has been retained. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF WILLIAM H. -RICHARDSON, A PRIVATE SOLDIER IN THE CAMPAIGN OF NEW AND OLD -MEXICO *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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