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diff --git a/old/68583-0.txt b/old/68583-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fccae58..0000000 --- a/old/68583-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3497 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Elastic and non-elastic narrow -fabrics, by Samuel Brown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics - and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines - -Authors: Samuel Brown - William Davis - -Release Date: July 21, 2022 [eBook #68583] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC -NARROW FABRICS *** - - - - - - - Elastic and Non-Elastic - Narrow Fabrics - - _By_ SAMUEL BROWN - - and a Chapter on Narrow Fabrics - Made on Knitting Machines - - _By_ WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A. - - This book originally appeared serially in TEXTILE WORLD - and has been republished in this form at - the urgent request of many readers. - - BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO. - TEXTILE PUBLISHERS - 334 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK - - Copyright 1923 - BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO. - New York - - - - -Elastic and Non-Elastic Narrow Fabrics - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -_Growth of Webbing Business—Attempts to Substitute Cut Products for -Individually Woven Webs Made on Gang Looms—Loom Setting to Reduce -Vibration—Capacity of Looms and Explanation of the Various Motions That -Are Employed_ - - -When we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect -it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big things, -such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber tires in -constant use. These may crowd from our notice a thousand and one smaller -things of importance. It is difficult to fully realize how many comforts -and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among them is -the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort and -convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes. It is -not only in such things as garters and suspenders, with which our minds -may first associate elastic webs, that these fabrics are used, but they -find employment in a variety of other products, which are growing more -numerous all the time. Today there are in operation thousands of looms -and braiders, in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the -operation of which, together with complementary machinery, about ten -thousand people are employed. - -It was about the year 1840 when the idea of weaving threads of elastic -in connection with other materials was first conceived. After long -experiments this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving. -New ideas were from time to time introduced, and new uses found for the -product, until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy -weaves, and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them -who are not closely associated with the business. - - -AMERICAN INDUSTRY STARTED ABOUT 1860 - -It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving was -introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous -England and Germany, and also France in a small way, had found here a -market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring, -which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity. About -1860, a few looms which had been used, were brought over from England -and located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring -commenced. The rubber thread required was for some time imported from -England. The business grew rapidly, and factories were established in -a number of cities, more particularly at Boston, Lowell and Brockton, -Mass., Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute -took place about the year 1890, which developed into a long-drawn out -strike, ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the -goring web manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of -this product from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms -which were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and -are now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing, -it may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought -from England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work -along other lines. - - -ATTEMPTS TO USE WIDE LOOMS - -Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide -looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps -at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were -woven in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to -the different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed -to meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch -as the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth. -Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were -arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite -widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife -edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new -positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual -strips. - -While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs in -gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced -having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the -individually woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would -give way, so that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and -ultimately the demand for them died out. - -Attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in another -direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth, one to form -the back, and the other to form the face of the goods, with an elastic -substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two. These -different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips -of the desired widths. This method was not without many advantages. -Strips of different widths were easily made without the costly method -of redrawing the warps in the looms. An unlimited choice of both plain -and fancy fabrics could be used, having if desired distinctly different -appearances and constructions for face and back, and this alone opened -up a wide range of possibilities. The finished cloth lent itself -admirably to fancy embossing and printing and to various other forms of -elaboration. But somehow the trade did not take to it, and this also -finally died out. - -The trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of -all kinds, both plains and fancies, in gang looms, and the business has -steadily grown ever since along these lines. - - -STRAIGHT SHUTTLE AND CIRCULAR SHUTTLE LOOMS - -The looms employed are very varied, inasmuch as the requirements cover -a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands. The -simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs such -as are mostly used for garters, and which are also used for many other -simple purposes in nearly every household. These webs are commonly known -as loom webs, lisles and cables. They are generally made on plain, -narrow, cam looms, some of which are capable of accommodating as many as -56 pieces or strips at one time. - -There are two distinct types of loom employed, one of which is known as -the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom. In the -former type, the straight shuttle, in traveling across the different -spaces, takes up more room than the circular shuttle, and thus somewhat -curtails the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom, limiting -capacity of production, and relatively increasing the cost. Very few of -the straight shuttle looms accommodate more than 36 shuttles, according -to the width of the goods required. The circular shuttles travel over a -segment of a circle and cross over each other’s tracks in their movement -through the shed, as shown in Fig. 1. This permits the crowding of the -pieces of web closer together, so that many more can be accommodated in -the same loom space than when the straight shuttle is used. This type -sometimes runs as high as 56 shuttles to the loom. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Circular Shuttle Webbing Loom] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Rack and Pinion Movement for Actuating Shuttles] - - -PREVENT LOOM VIBRATION - -These looms often are speeded as high as 180 picks per minute. To operate -at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory goods, -free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or -variable momentum in running, a very heavy type of loom is necessary. -They should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all -possible vibration. A solid concrete floor into which timbers have been -properly set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into -them is the ideal way, but where this is not practicable at least heavy -foundation timbers for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged. The -frames of the looms should be heavy; also the main driving shaft, which -should have wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the -wearing points and obviate loose play in the boxes. - -The crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough of -them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lay without -liability to take on any loose motion, which would be fatal to the -production of perfect goods. Weight and strength here is very essential, -inasmuch as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to -the lay on account of the harness movement, and they must be built to -drop below the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at -the beat of the lay. They should also be made adjustable, each arm having -a heavy left and right threaded insert, so that the length of the weaving -line may be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs. -They should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up. - -The lay itself must necessarily be very heavy. It is generally -constructed of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds, so as -to avoid any possibility of warping and shrinkage. The shuttles used are -mostly made of applewood. While they must run smooth and be free from -the risk of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be -freely drawn across the multiple of web spaces. It will be easily seen -that the drawing of so many shuttles over a space of about three times -their length, at possibly 180 picks per minute, carrying and delivering -the necessary weft to the webs, each thread of weft being checked to a -certain extent by friction springs, requires great care and thought in -construction. Shuttle wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will -not serve the purpose. - -The shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to -accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling, together with the -necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions. Each -shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion -of a fine recoil spring, which is made fast at one end of the drilled -hole at the back of the shuttle. To the other end of the spring is -attached a small porcelain eye, through which is threaded the weft, -making it possible to govern and take up by the action of the spring the -loose filling which is thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses -through the shed. These side recoil springs are not only useful for the -taking up of the loose filling but allow for a variety of threading up -methods, so as to assist in the governing of the tension of the weft at -one or both sides of the web, and thus afford a means of weaving the -goods level. They aid in correcting any tendency to long and short sided -goods, of which we will say more later. - -At the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring on -which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill, -and can be so regulated as to govern the tension. This spring is so -tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made. - - -RACK AND PINION MOVEMENT - -The shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by -what is known as the rack and pinion movement. (See Fig. 2). This method -has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs. -The rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed, -A, the entire length of the loom. To the rack is attached leather straps -G, or heavily woven fabric straps, with which the rack B is pulled to -and fro at each pick of the loom. The rack is of wood, having rounded -teeth-paced approximately one-third of an inch apart. Into the rack are -meshed pinions C, two to carry each shuttle E, the teeth of which are -correspondingly spaced. The rack is set into a wood carrier which is -about one inch deep and one inch wide, and the full length of the lay. -The pinions are made of either raw hide or paper fibre, and these pinions -again mesh into a series of racks D, grooved in on the under side of each -shuttle, and thus drive the shuttle to and fro across the web spaces J. - -The constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the -top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom -of the rack. It therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a -false bottom of wood of about ¼-inch thick, which after becoming worn by -constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken -out and replaced by a new one, thus keeping the rack and pinions and -shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other. - -The rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned straps, -which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by -means of wood screws, or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for -this purpose. These straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams -set on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom. The -power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood -pulleys, moving backwards and forwards, which are so formed as to start -and stop the shuttles slowly, and to operate them at a higher rate of -speed during their passage through the middle of the shed. This movement -is necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the -weaving shed before the harness is properly settled, and also to soften -the hammering at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and -tear. - -It might be well to note here also that this hammering is also softened -by the placing of a piece of soft rubber H at each end of the rack run, -so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home. While -the cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement -most desirable for the travel of the shuttle, it has its drawback in the -momentum produced, which it is often found difficult to control. - -The Crompton & Knowles Loom Works have designed a shuttle motion which -effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles -while they are entering, passing through, and leaving the shed, by a -dwelling movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating -slotted rocker. It is absolutely positive in action and does away with -the uncontrollable and erratic movement so often met with in the cam -drive. - - -MOVEMENT OF HARNESSES - -Four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs -which are used for ordinary purposes. However, it is not the practice to -confine looms to the limitations of this capacity, but to put in either 8 -or 12-pick cams. These, besides providing means to make the plain weave, -open up possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of -weaves, which add materially to the usefulness of the loom. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Direct Cam Movement] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Loom with Side Cam Method of Harness Control] - -There are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this -character for the making of ordinary webs. One is known as the direct -cam drive, where the cams are fitted on a 4 to 1 shaft, as shown in -Fig. 3, which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is -communicated to the harnesses through a series of levers A, rocking poles -B, levers C, and lifting wires to the harness D. - -The other movement is known as the end-cam method, where a small shaft -is set at the end of the loom, running at right angles to the driving -shaft (See Fig. 4) from which it is driven by bevel gears. On this short -shaft are set the cams, usually 8 or 12 in number, which have a series of -grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different -positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft. These -cams operate what is known as the cam jacks, which may also be seen in -Fig. 4. - -The jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and forwards by -the cams, communicating movement to the various harnesses. The harnesses -are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks. This connection at -both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms at a very high -rate of speed, as there are no weights or springs to contend with, which -limits speed. - -While the first described method of direct cams has some advantages -over the end cams, such looms are not nearly so economical to operate -as the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable. While the -harnesses are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by -weights or springs. The means of shed adjustment, however, enables the -attaining of a well graded shed. Furthermore, the cams themselves can be -so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the -different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be -obtained. But the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves -attainable, which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method. - -When the direct cam movement is used, and where the goods being woven are -of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom, it is -practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide flat -weights of the requisite size. But where higher speed is required than is -advisable for weighted harnesses, springs are more desirable. - -The simplest form of pulling do the harnesses is by the use of floor -blocks and direct springs. There is, however, a disadvantage in using the -direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift -of the harness is reached, which necessarily increases materially the -power expended in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain. The -better way is to use what is known as spring jacks, which have an easier -pull than the direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull, -diminishing from the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at -the extreme lift on the lever, so that the load is uniformly distributed -all through the movement and less power is employed. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -_Looms Should Be Adapted to Make a Wide Variety of Goods—Take-Up and -Let-Off Motions—Making the Rubber Warps for Different Classes of -Web—Importance of Uniform Tension—Defects from Uneven Tension and Chafing -of Threads_ - - -The greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the -harness. On account of the great length it becomes necessary that -everything possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging, -for the least irregularity which may be developed will of course -interfere with the evenness of the shed. The harness frames must be made -of the very best stock obtainable, thoroughly seasoned, and absolutely -straight grained. Each frame must be supported at regular and frequent -intervals by stays or supports mortised in the runners. These stays -are slotted at top and bottom to receive the heddle bars and keep -them accurately in line, and thus prevent them from catching on the -neighboring harness during the operation of the shedding process. - -It is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately -spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily -on the bars, and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a -tendency to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the -shed. Steel heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or -less and get out of alignment. They are made from tempered steel which is -very flexible and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly -catch or chafe the warp threads. They adjust themselves automatically -to the frame and cannot twist or bend while at work, and are made to -accommodate themselves to every conceivable kind of goods. - - -INSTALL LOOMS FOR WIDE RANGE - -In installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make -ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different -fabrics which may from time to time be required. In the manufacture -of the light single cloth garter webs, not more than two warps to the -piece are required, a face warp and a gut warp, and the temptation to -save a little in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of -creel spaces to immediate requirements. Added expense may seem for the -time being an unnecessary burden. But very soon there may arise a call -for other goods which cannot be made within the limitations of the two -bank creel; therefore changes become necessary which are generally much -heavier than first cost would have been. - -Nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed. Many times the -availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division to -care for the various weaves and materials employed in some constructions. -If the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first -starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers, -buttons, etc., which may be procured later. But by all means ample -provision should be made for the full frame work and supporting rods for -same. - - -TAKE-UP MOTION - -Another important consideration is to make proper provision for a -reliable take-up motion, so that the goods may be taken away from the -reed while weaving without any liability to variableness. This liability -was present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the -mills today. The old-time fine ratchet gear, even when provided with -a number of pawls, is always liable to erratic picking, which alone -will ruin an otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change -the cost of manufacturing. A slight irregularity of picking may not be -discernible in non-elastic goods, which will be satisfactory so long as -the variableness is not easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per -inch is maintained. But in elastic goods, where the contraction takes -place after they leave the press rolls, every irregularity is revealed -and intensified so there is no room to take chances. The only safe way is -to employ picking gears making one tooth to each pick of the loom, and -then to change the gears when different picking becomes necessary. - -In many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision -made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when -a joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while -weaving, or where a quill may have run off unnoticed. It is almost -impossible to make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism -being provided for this purpose. In some of the slow running looms -provision is made for this by the operation of each set of rolls -independently (see Fig. 1), by means of the ratchet gear and pawl A and -worm motion B. This plan has the one disadvantage of taking up too much -space between the individual pieces. Where the fabric woven is say four -or five inches wide, and the space will admit, it is all that can be -desired, and the individually weighted rollers C associated with the -motion are admirably adapted to variable pressure. - -For the very narrow elastic fabrics, which require considerable roller -pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving, and where it is -necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred, -a better movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main -take-up shaft in the form of a sleeve. It is carried around by the shaft -as it turns while the goods are being woven, but can be released and -turned both backwards and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel, -which operates a series of differential gears. This movement is entirely -independent of the movement of the main take-up shaft drive. - - -TENSION ON RUBBER WARP - -Too much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the -tension of the rubber warp. On its uniformity depends not only the -quality, but also the cost of the web. The greater the weight of slack -rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer -the quality. A very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the -tension of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods. - -The rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking or -chafing of the thread takes place. Each rubber thread should be under -this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the -desired contraction will take place uniformly, and a flat piece of web -will be produced that will have plenty of life. - -It must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber which -constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs, working -in unison with each other. Each one should have equal power to contract -the fabric at its own particular part. If any one of these strands or -springs is chafed and weakened, it lessens the contracting power, and -the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively -greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained -their full power. - -Moreover, the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed -particles of rubber pricking through the face, particularly on the white -and lighter colored goods. Before such webs can be marketed they must be -subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles, which -is accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded, cloth covered -roller, which will remove the loose particles by friction and high -velocity. But this operation adds to the cost. - -A high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that most -manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the threads, -instead of leaving this matter to the weavers. These testers acquire -such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and -satisfactory results. Talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to -reduce the risk of chafing and breaking of the rubber threads. The warps -are arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush, -loaded with talc, which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work -very smoothly. This is especially important in damp weather, which is the -worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods. At times factories have -stopped operations when the weather was especially humid. - - -LET-OFF MOTION - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Individual Take-Up Motion for Wide Space Looms] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Individual Rubber Warp Let-Off Motion] - -When we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads -possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed -to their reaching the leaving line, it is not to be wondered at that -chafing is liable to take place. With all this liability of spoiling -goods it becomes readily apparent that any device employed to regulate -such an important feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very -sensitive and dependable. - -On looms making wide goods, and where space will allow, regulation is -accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in Fig. 2. The iron -rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft A, at one end of which a -gear wheel B is fastened. In this gear is meshed the worm C, which is -operated by a heavy linen cord D passed twice around a pulley E. The cord -derives its movement from a rocking shaft F, on which there is fastened a -screw extension G, by which adjustment can be made so as to deliver very -accurately any amount from the rubber beam. - -With this kind of movement, and in order to feed the thread uniformly -into the web, it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where -the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the -beams. The warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in -individual warps, which are done up in chain form, each warp containing -the requisite number of threads. - - -MAKING RUBBER WARPS - -The machine used for making the warps, shown at Fig. 3, is mounted on an -iron frame A, which carries the power driven warp beam B. Behind this is -an open top expansion reed C, the dents of which are regulated to open, -coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand wheel. -This reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering. Behind the -reed C are fixed two pairs of nip rolls, D and E, and an open roller -F, which is followed by a belt-driven beater roll G, used to beat the -threads out straight as they leave the chain. - -The rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor, under the beater -roll. The end is then passed over the beater roll G, over the open roll -F, through the two pairs of nip rolls D and E, over the expansion reed C, -and then looped to a leader on the rubber beam, where the knot is put in -a counter-sink on the beam barrel, so as not to interfere with the lay -of the warp. The section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls -is brought down in loop form, shown at H, and the nip rolls are then -closed while the warp is in this position. The two sets of nip rolls are -speeded alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping -points, so that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls, -D, are perfectly gauged in length and tension when passing through the -reed C and on to the beam B. The threads of rubber are under considerable -tension, inasmuch as the beam B is driven faster than the nip rolls D and -E. - - -FRICTION LET-OFF - -Where there is limited loom space, and where a small number of threads -are employed, as in the narrower garter fabrics, it is not as practical -to have the warps made mechanically, and for this reason they are not -likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension. In -such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will -correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout. -The device for doing this is shown at Fig. 4. - -The warp carrier A is fastened to the back rail, which carries the warp, -over which is passed the friction cloth G which is hung from a rod D. -The friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp lever -E, which is bolted to the bottom rail H, as shown. The rubber threads -constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness C, and then -to the breast beam B. The lever E, and the weights F, allow for proper -adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as the -warp beam empties. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Rubber Warping Machine] - -In making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and -suspenders, where the last described method of warp delivery takes place, -it is customary to work from an entire sheet of rubber, splitting it up -into the required sections or strips of the various sizes called for in -the warps. This splitting and warping process must be done in a long room -where the warp can be stretched out to its full length, if possible, -after it is unchained. These warps are usually about 60 yards long. The -“head” of the sheet, or the part where the cutting knife has not gone -through, is spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine -and the tail end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of -the room. - -The requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to be -beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam. -The end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel -for this purpose. A wide reed is used, covering the number of beams -operated in the machine, which is usually about four, and the threads are -reeded over spaces opposite the different beams. This reed can be moved -sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so -as to keep the warp level. The operator then starts the beaming machine, -which may be operated either by hand or power, and the warps are wound -up. At the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the tail -end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible. -When the warps are all wound on the several beams, a lease is taken -in each of them in the ordinary manner, and each separate section is -securely fastened. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Automatic Friction Let-Off for Rubber Warps] - -Should floor space be limited, a horizontal reel is used, which is about -six feet long and about five feet in diameter. On this the sheet of -rubber is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and -divided by a coarse reed, so as to be able to distribute the different -sections all across the reel. Each section can then be taken off the reel -as required for the beams. The tension of the threads is governed by a -weighted leather strap passed over the face of the reel. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -_Head Motion Looms and Dobbies for Making Fancy Effects—Tying Up -Harness—Construction of Loom Webs, Lisle Webs, French Web or Railroad -Weave and Cable Webs—Making Good Selvages and Preventing Long-Sided -Effect_ - - -So far we have mentioned only plain looms, or those limited to the -capacity of eight or twelve pick cams. Before we consider any of the -varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak -of fancy looms. There are different types, adapted to a wide range of -fancy effects, but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as -the chain head, an example of which is shown at Fig. 1. Such looms are -usually of 18 and 24 harness capacity, and are operated by a figure chain -of the length required to produce the desired figure. Chains are made up -of a series of bars, one bar operating with each pick of the loom and -having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated. - -Wherever a roller is placed on the bar, the corresponding harness will be -raised, and wherever a sinker is used, the corresponding harness will be -dropped. A series of rollers following each other will hold the harness -up, and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the -harness down, thus maintaining at all times an open shed. - - -THE SHEDDING OPERATION - -The shedding operation is very simple. In the fancy head there are two -cylinders, each of which has gear teeth running the entire length. These -cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions. The teeth of the -cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed on -the upper cylinder shown in Fig. 1, but there is a blank space provided -so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position -at the right time as the cylinders revolve. - -Between the two cylinders are vibrator gears, one for each harness, and -to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different -harnesses. These vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain -rollers or sinkers, so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the -upper or lower cylinder, and are so timed that they take their position -at the moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself. A -vibrator gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the -harness connected with it, while a vibrator gear engaging the lower -cylinder drops that particular harness. The harnesses stay in their -relative positions until the chain calls for another change. - -Both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel, so that -wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to a -minimum. To further soften the engagement, the speed of the cylinder is -controlled by elliptical driving gears, which reduce the speed of travel -just at the moment when the engagement takes place. - -The timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled -that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper -relationship with the other parts. But in the event of any accident or -breakage occurring which interferes with the free motion of the head, -such strain is taken care of by a soft pointed set screw on the head -driving shaft, which shears off and so prevents further serious damage. - -The capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures -and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to run -side by side in the same harnesses and this is often done. Of this we may -write more later. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Fancy Loom for Weaving Narrow Fabrics] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Double Index Dobby] - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Overshot Dobby] - - -THE OVERHEAD DOBBY - -A popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby -shown at Fig. 2, which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain -cam loom or the fancy head loom. It is placed on a well braced, rigid -frame and built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the -harness strings. It is driven directly from a two to one shaft, which -may be either underneath the loom or at the end, and is connected with a -threaded adjustable rod, which is attached to a slotted lever and can be -adjusted to govern the depth of the dobby shed. - -It is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom, but -having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and -work in unison. Such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less -acute angle at the harness tie-up, and also affords facilities for a -distinctly different pattern on either half of the loom. It minimizes -the risk of the harness threads cutting into the compart boards, and -prolongs relatively the life of the dobby harness. Furthermore it allows -for a straight tie-up on either machine so that there is no limitation -to the length or character of the design, as is often the case where two -patterns are run together on the same machine, or where point tie-ups are -used, as would very likely be necessary if only one machine was installed -to cover different designs on both halves of the loom. As we have -previously stated it is not advisable to limit capacity for the saving of -a few dollars in the initial cost. - - -OVERSHOT DOBBY - -Another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what -is known as the overshot loom. It is used for the introduction of a -silk weft figure effect, and is probably the most pronounced form of -elaboration introduced. It differs from the old rise and fall method in -the economy of operation. The overshot continues to weave the body of the -goods right along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure -in at the same time. Not only is it economical in the respect of greater -yardage, but the method employed in binding the figure limits the use of -silk to the actual figure displayed, and does not carry the silk, which -is the most expensive material in the fabric, to the extreme selvage at -every pick, as is the case where the rise and fall method is employed. - -In the overshot system a specially designed dobby, shown at Fig. 3, is -used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps. Two -pairs of knives are employed, one of each pair operating far enough to -raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main -shed, while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used -for figure purposes to a higher level, so that the overshot shuttle may -pass under them. This occurs every alternate pick of the loom, the body -shuttle making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only -one. - -In levelling the harness, setting or timing of the loom, and making the -shed for overshot work, the plans followed are identically the same as -in ordinary single shuttle work, as the upper shuttle and upper shed are -distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed. The binder warp, -being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper -and lower cloths it is binding together, allows for the figure threads -to be strained out of their normal position, so that the upper shuttle -may pass under them. In order to conform to this strained position of the -binder figure threads, the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward -at the nose so as to get a good clearance, and thus avoid any binding -in its passages through the shed. This peculiar downward pitch of the -shuttle is very important and cannot be over emphasized. It is shown in -Fig. 4. - -The overshot dobby is so constructed that a different set of draw knives -operate on each alternate pick of the loom, one on the binder lift and -the other on the rubber lift. This not only allows for a silk figure made -with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp -figure also, a combination which can often be made very effective, as -shown in Fig. 5. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Showing Auxiliary Shed and Pitched Shuttle as Used -in Overshot Work] - - -IMPORTANCE OF DOBBY HARNESS - -Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby -harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to -the pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and -when the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes -should be looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for -a couple of days before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby -machine for a few hours, lifting all the harness and then dropping them, -so as to settle the strings and take out any kinks or loose places which -are bound to exist in a highly cabled linen cord of this character. - -The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness -suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be -used, so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving -changes in the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in -the adjustment of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent, -it is advisable to apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should -be thoroughly worked into the strings by running the harness for several -hours, using one and one change cards. This should be followed by a -dusting of talc or soapstone, which will add much to the smoothness of -the finish. - -To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several -outside compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute, -and also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves, -it is good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different -rows of strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may -be threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame. - - -CONSTRUCTION OF SIMPLE WEBS - -Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to -retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler -forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms. -The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s -ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry -goods and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in -width. There are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known -of which are the loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are -of single cloth construction, in which the filling is the main feature. -There are generally two cotton warps used in such goods, one of which -is commonly called the binder and weaves two up and two down, while the -other is called the gut or filler, and works with the rubber warp, one up -and one down. The selvages of these webs are made with the filling, which -passes around a wire at each pick, the wire remaining stationary while -the web is taken away from it in the process of weaving. An illustration -of a loom web of this character is shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam -arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Combination Warp and Shuttle Figure Produced on -Overshot Dobby.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10] - -It is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both -rubber and gut, inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they -both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web. Where such a method is -employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of -their proper places, and to fall together in pairs at irregular points, -which will produce an objectionable “rowey” appearance in the goods. This -will be noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch -Loom Web] - -[Illustration: Fig. 7A.—Harness Draft and Weave for One-Half Inch Lisle -Web] - -[Illustration: Fig. 8A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch -French Web] - -[Illustration: Fig. 9A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch -Cable Web] - -In the harness draft shown, it will be seen that one harness is employed -for the rubber and one for the gut. It is thus possible to shed the gut -harness so as to open more than the rubber, having it travel both higher -and lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom. By -this movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position, and -at the same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several -pockets designed to carry them both. If, from any unusual cause, any of -the gut threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this -arrangement of separation to lift the gut harness at any time, insert -a thread of cotton between the gut and rubber threads, and put them in -their proper places when commencing to weave again. - -The weave employed in the making of webs of this kind, although of a very -simple character, involves a condition which does not favor a straight -well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome -tendencies. The nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder -harness changes, while on the next pick it remains open and does not -change, the rubber and gut harness changing only. The result of this -movement is such that one shed clears for the reception of the filling -much better than the other, so that at one side of the web the filling -will hug the edge wire, shown at W in Fig. 6A, while at the other side of -the web the failure to get a good clearance prevents the filling getting -so snugly around the wire. Therefore, as the web draws away from the edge -wire in the process of weaving, the tendency is for one selvage rubber -cavity to be small, while the other is large, which means that at the -open side there is a freedom for contraction of the edge rubber which is -not present at the other side, and a long-sided uneven web is the result. - - -MAKING A GOOD SELVAGE - -To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to -get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as -possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance -to separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should -be set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a -little longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the -open side, and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the -other side. The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that -the loose fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether -to counteract the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in -a fine edge wire on the open side of the web to offset the creeping -tendency of the selvage rubber thread when contraction takes place after -the web comes through the press rolls. - -The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the -appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber -line, and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web -generally. The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the -size of the rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing -the same, but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper -care is not taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine -a binder warp as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or -excess of contraction by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps -to fill in the rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to -the rib. All the weight possible should be carried on the binder warp -up to a point of safety, and care should be taken to get a very easy, -uniform delivery of the warp from the beam so as to avoid any erratic -jerky movement of the warp lever. - -The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should -be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any -irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform -operation of the warp lever. - -The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two-fold -purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a -measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used, -the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the -shorter the stretch produced. - -Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch -largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and -great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of -yarns used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing -of the stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any -excess of weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch. -In fact, any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result in the -difference between the profit and loss. - -In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around -which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig. -6A, is highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable. -Sharpened to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other -end, it is fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an -adjustable slip knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate -the length of wire running in the web. It is then passed through a -harness heddle eye on the rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space -next outside the selvage rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire -on the reed dent makes it necessary to have this dent of hardened steel -so as to withstand the constant wear of the wire, which is always being -crowded against the dent by the nipping action of the filling as it draws -against the wire in the process of weaving, and the repeated beat at the -same place in the dent at the weaving line. In any event, after a short -time the dents in the reed will be cut so that it becomes necessary to -frequently replace them with new ones, and for this reason it should be -so arranged that they can be easily and quickly removed from and replaced -in the reeds. - - -THE LISLE WEB - -The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to -the loom web, except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed -yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs, -and is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand -of rubber, instead of two as in the loom web. The harness draft of the -one-half inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the weave, is -shown at Fig. 7A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 36 ends 80/2; -gut, 8 ends 40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch; -stretch, 75 per cent. - -It will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two down, -but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four picks -of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness are -distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get -uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this -respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended -with. - -Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is the -main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and -therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this. -The binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be weighted so -as to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety, -being careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow -in the goods or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most -generally used for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock, -of about 15 turns per inch. It should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so -as to obtain all the covering property possible. It should be spun with -the utmost uniformity, as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be -noticeable in the goods. - -The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the -greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise -perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling -yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of -the yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil, -poor circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when -the color appears to be perfect, poor processing will often prevent the -smooth running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and -thus create irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated -breaking of the selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods. - -The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when skein -yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and -almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the -method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly -so variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by -quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn. -Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the -goods. - -Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the result -of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a variety of -other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too long in -the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent wire -that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the wire. -Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into the dent, -so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in -weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes -the cause should be found and not guessed at. - - -FRENCH WEB OR RAILROAD WEAVE - -Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and which -is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle, is -what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In -almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as -already described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at -Fig. 8A. It allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally -employed in the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which -gives it a peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of -railroad weave. - -There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it might -be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to work -the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton -warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for -the goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and -forward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam. -This movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable -feature. To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over -a small, felt-covered wood tube, which revolves and responds to the -movement of the bounding web. In this way there is no friction to glaze -or polish the web and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same -polish will occur as the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they -are felt covered. - - -CABLE WEB - -The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is known -as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence of -the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different -from the plain web, it is well adapted to this class of goods. Simple -in appearance, it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture, -particularly when we remember that it is not unusual to be required to -make a finished stretch of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft -and weave are shown at Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder, -34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24 ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent; -Picks, 80 per inch; Stretch, 100 per cent. - -The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber -threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which -may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the -process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects. - -Trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and -allowing the gut threads to prick through. To prevent this objectionable -feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn -for the gut, not necessarily of high grade stock, but a yarn which is -uniformly spun and not at all hard or wiry. As these goods are being -woven and on full stretch, the gut threads, of course, are perfectly -straight and accurate in line, but when contraction takes place, to -probably one-half the former length, these heavy threads, which form -probably about 25 per cent. of the weight of the entire web, should bend -or fold uniformly and dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to -appear in any way on the face of the web, snugly housed away in the -several pockets or cavities. If the yarn composing these gut threads is -spotty or irregularly spun, this uniformity of fold inside the pockets -will be broken up and the appearance of the face of the goods is likely -to be marred by unsightly specks of cotton pricking through, which can be -both seen and felt. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -_Elaboration of Honeycomb Effects by Parti-Dyed and Printed -Fillings—Bandage and Surgical Webs Made with Plain and Covered -Rubber—Frill Web Woven on Cam Looms—Double Cloths—Importance of Securing -Balance Between Back and Face of Goods_ - - -Among the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of plain -looms, is what is commonly known as the honeycomb, shown at Fig. 1 and -Fig. 1A. This is generally made with silk, wood silk, or schappe filling. -The smooth filling floating over two cords gives the web a smooth feel, -there being no rib effect noticeable whatever, making it well adapted -for a fine trade. The warp lines are almost entirely hidden by the -filling, so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe -fancy effects, which can be done both in the plain web and the cable. The -honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as -can be obtained from the filling. - -Fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more -colors. Such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects -at regular distances in different colors, such distances being governed -by the length of the dips and the width of the goods. The effects which -can be produced are quite varied. The simplest way of accomplishing this -is to use the regular 54-inch skein, having white or some light shade as -a base, and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color. This -process is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack -at the required distance above the color liquor, and then lowering them -into the vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner. - -Where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are -desired, long reeled skeins are used, sometimes 108 or 216 inches, which -have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels. Such skeins -are not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already -described. Sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper -and tied tightly, so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion, -and then the whole is put in the liquor, when the exposed part only will -be dyed. - -Then again sometimes wood clamps are used, like that shown at Fig. -2, having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being -carefully folded. The two halves are clamped together tightly in such a -manner that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while -the part left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the -dye liquor. - - -PRINTED FILLING - -Another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein yarn -used for the filling. This is done by using a machine having a pair of -fluted brass printing rolls, one of which is made to open on a hinge like -a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it. This roller is then -closed to its original position, so that with the two rollers parallel -and close together, and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them, -the turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein. The skein is then -taken out and dryed before spooling. Different sets of rolls are used so -as to get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing. - -Where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs of -the honeycomb type, it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain -cords in the center of the web, or possibly on either side, so as to -break up the flatness of the weave. This opens up the opportunity of -using lines of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will -produce a plaid-like effect. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Honeycomb] - -[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Honeycomb.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Clamp Used for Dying Parti-Colored Skeins] - - -BANDAGE WEBS - -There is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs, Fig. 3, in -widths ranging from 2 to 4 inches. These webs are used for binding the -limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns. -They require to be made with a long soft easy stretch. An open reed of -about 12 dents per inch is employed. Four threads are generally used -for the binder, weaving two up and two down. The goods are similar in -construction to a regular lisle web, except that the gut is omitted in -order to get the easiest possible movement. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Bandage Webs; Fabric at Left Made with Plain -Rubber; Web at Right Made With Covered Rubber] - -The yarn is generally the same quality and size for both warp and -filling, and is usually a soft spun 2-20s. The side of rubber is -generally about 38 or 40, with 40 picks per inch and a finished stretch -of 100 per cent. The use such webs are put to, necessitating as we have -already said a soft and sluggish stretch, prevents the use of a heavy -rubber thread, the result being that when the bandage is kept in close -contact with the warm body, the life of the fine rubber is of short -duration. - -This condition, and the open weave necessary to get the easy stretch, -have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber -which have been covered with cotton threads before weaving. This process -not only prolongs the life of the web, but allows for even more open -weaving, the use of different weaves than would be possible where the -uncovered rubber thread is used, and the production of a fabric more -suitable for the purpose. - -In order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable -characteristic of a bandage web, and yet have the necessary width, it -is not unusual to introduce a seersucker effect, as shown in Fig. 4, in -sections of the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the whole. -In an ordinary cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually -produced by the use of a separate warp of heavier yarn than the rest of -the fabric, which warp must be weighted differently and often a different -weave is employed to emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker -effect. - -In the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary. Wherever -the seersucker stripe is desired, strands of rubber are left out which -of course takes away from these portions that element which contracts -the other part of the web, and a seersucker effect is the result. Such -stripes are often used for the ornamentation of some webs by having -narrow sections introduced for border effects, or running down the -center, and in fact they may be employed in a variety of ways, inasmuch -as they lend themselves effectively to different forms of coloring, in -relief to the main fabric. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Seersucker Effect] - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Frill Web Made on Cam Loom] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Plain Web] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Fig. 6, Simplest Form -of Double Cloth] - -In passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use -covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making -the warps, as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary -thread. The spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp. -Arrangements have been made so that to each spool is attached a special -head, which can be weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached -to a cord running in a groove on the auxiliary head. By this arrangement -uniform delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to -avoid any puckering caused by irregular warping. - - -FRILL WEB ON CAM LOOM - -In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects -is necessarily limited. The bulk of such webs, particularly those made -with a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter -web, however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may -be made within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill -feature is more generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy -effects. - -The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired -width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable -width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven -under tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the -press rolls. The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract, -but frill up uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds. -No wire is required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension -of the filling is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill -warp and make a neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of -the reed space occupied by the warp. - -The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder threads -which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made in the -regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity. The -frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is -so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for -the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only -be bound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it -is bound at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so -that it readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body -part, and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds. - -Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses -are used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven -in at each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed, -however, it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill -warp, or a fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the -frill. If such precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and -stiff and will not fold uniformly as the center contracts. It may even -retard the desired contraction of the body. - -It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed -having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of -getting a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents. -The plan more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the -frill part of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the -body, generally in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may -be evenly distributed in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse -lines of the dents. - -Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only. -In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having -no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods -to produce the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited -contraction of the body part. - - -DOUBLE CLOTH WEBS - -Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs of -a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only -one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We will -now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where two -distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each -working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp -known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such -a manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp. - -By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be produced -with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the single -cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and back of -the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and stock -of different qualities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may -be used to embellish the face, while the back may be perfectly plain and -free from any coloring whatever. - -There are certain features associated with the construction of double -cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different -weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the -warps into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp -is required for both back and face and also one for the binder, which -delivers a much greater length of warp than either, necessitated by -the character of the weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths -together. A separate warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the -web perfectly straight and is shorter in length than any of the other -sections. Such goods also require a special warp for the selvage, so that -in the simplest form of such webs a bank of five warps is necessary. On -fancy goods the introduction of fancy warps may add to this number. - - -BALANCE BETWEEN BACK AND FACE - -The element of a right balance between the back and face has to be -considered, and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the -stock the result may be that one side of the goods will assert control -over the other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and even. -When such a web is cut it will curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable. -Such a condition may arise from a variety of causes. If the weaves of -the face and back cloths are identical then it will be necessary to have -the face and back warps of the same size yarn or its equivalent. For -instance, should the face be a four-thread plain and 40/2 is used, and -the back only two threads, then the yarn used for the back warp must -be 20/2 so as to equal the four threads of 40/2 in the face. Should, -however, the face be a more open weave than the back, then an equal -weight of yarn in both cloths will not be right, and it will be necessary -to use yarn of a heavier weight for the face to compensate for the -freedom of the more open weave and effect a proper balance with the more -tightly woven back. There can be no fixed rule to apply to this, and only -experience will indicate the proper relationship between the two. In -Figs. 6 and 6A are shown the simplest form of double cloth, known as a -plain web. - -By carefully following the weave it will be seen that while the face -weaves 3 up and 1 down, and the back 1 up and 3 down, the filling will -appear both on the face and back of the goods as 1 up and 1 down. If -the binder was not there it would be a tubular web, having the same -appearance all around. The binder, however, intersects the upper and -lower cloths at each pick and binds the two together in one complete -whole, while the rubber lies between the two, each strand being separated -by the interlocking binder threads. - -It becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and lower -cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp, which as will be -seen in Fig. 6A is drawn in on all four face and back harnesses, and the -threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around. -To do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side, -otherwise the weave at this point would show two threads operating -together next to each other, and would break up the continuity of the -weave. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Method of Banking a Set of Warps for Double Cloth -Webs] - -The selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of the -web. It forms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber -threads, and it must be so arranged that these threads can function -properly so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat. In the first -place the yarn must be of such a size that with the proper number of -threads employed the selvage will contract uniformly with the body of -the goods, so that the web will not “frill” on account of a too heavy -selvage, or “belly” because it is too light. - - -CARE FOR SELVAGE - -The threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make a -good clearance for the filling, which otherwise would “nib” up and make -an unsightly selvage. Then again, a careful adjustment of the weight -carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the -requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle, -otherwise the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off -when strained out of proper alignment with the front reed. It will be -observed in the draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage, -which is necessary in order to control the additional yarn used in the -construction of the selvage. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -_Three Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain -Back—Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four Leaf -Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures—Interchanging Figure and -Face_ - - -Turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we will take -up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin face, woven -in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web not only used -for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset garter attachments -also. A web of this character when properly constructed has a smooth -velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed across the width -without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps, which are -completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of the face -threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these floating face -threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing a smooth -handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs are -generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back, and -have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a plain -web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and gives the -fabric a much finer appearance. - - -HARNESS AND CHAIN DRAFT - -Fig. 1 shows the harness and chain draft of such a web, together with the -construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of 1⅛ inches -wide. It will be noticed that the face, consisting of 150 threads, is -split up into two warps of 75 threads each. This arrangement is necessary -in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in the -shed. The warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put on six -harness frames, although the weave could be produced on three. It would -not be practicable to crowd 50 threads on one harness frame in the narrow -space available, as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too much -when changing. - -In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the -threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other -face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement -in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism, -and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper -divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps -have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and -also on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves. - -The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent undue -friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be worked -under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this must -carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation to -the harness shed. - -In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded in -the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent -a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional -floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl -up when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may -be prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast -beam rod, so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly -tighter than that which is in the upper harness. - -The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to -produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed, -and thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The -filling yarn should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good -uniform quality, in order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the -rubber. The reed dent inside the selvage rubber should be carefully -twisted at an angle to conform to the nipped in position to the rubber -thread, so that the outside edge of the dent will not cut the rubber when -the reed beats against the goods at the weaving line. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in -Conjunction With a Plain Back] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Showing Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Shed] - - -USE OF COARSER YARN - -A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face yarn by -using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat. This is shown in the -harness draft at Fig. 3. - -In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin -weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so -in elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would -produce a ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face -is about the limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few -exceptions, and even this only in connection with fine picking. - - -USE OF FOUR LEAF TWILL - -A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a heavy -body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.” These -are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their -weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7 -down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back, while -giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile -produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by -the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back -warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth more -firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat] - -Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention is -that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this has -a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs -in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of -combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of -the sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper -balance of the different weaves employed in the face and back. Otherwise -the goods would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for -manufacture. Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding -the size upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say -more later. - - -FILLING FANCY EFFECTS - -All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on cam -looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what are -generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these -under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are -called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called -stitch patterns. - -The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over -sections of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in -contrast to the warp. They are confined to no particular character of -design, and may range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy -harness loom or dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The -ground or body may be either plain or twill, or any other acceptable -weave suitable as a base for figuring, while the filling may be of a -contrasting color, either of silk or cotton as desired. The figure or -design may be made from the same shuttle used for the ground or it may -be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used as an overshot or rise and -fall, according to the character of web desired. - -Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as -a sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at -intervals so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these -points. No additional figure warps are required for this class of goods, -and elaborate designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for -cross coloring that there is in the warp figure method. - - -STITCH FANCY PATTERNS - -When the design is made from the warp, the figure threads are made to -float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after -weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face, -and make what is termed a stitch figure. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Point Draw Stitch Figure] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 4] - -It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is -practically unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern -the construction and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a -proper balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is -necessary to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and -back of the goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In -the double cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of -the goods, is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths, -going in the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at -these times as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the -contraction of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the -construction. Here again we must note the effect of the contraction in -piling up the floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the -floats in making the design so as to avoid any ragged appearance. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Interchanging Figure and Face] - -[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 5] - -Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain draft -at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for the -main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the figure -is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running -between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as a -gut. - -In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put gut -threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must -be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21 -center cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the -edges and make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure -between the upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the -design, affords opportunity for introducing additional warp threads -of different colors, so as to be able to bring up either one color or -another as desired in a design. - -As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it -will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat -limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs -from such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of -methods by which a big range of designs is possible. - - -INTERCHANGING FIGURE AND FACE - -Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” fancy in -which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in -the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The harness -and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design a -given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure -threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure -threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to -each other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the -interchanging face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves -only three picks up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on -the face cloth, and this produces a perfectly flat web. - -Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the “picot” -edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven -in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to -float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out -in small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -_Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head Motion -and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One Bank of Shuttles—The -Overshot Method—Use of Different Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long -Floats_ - - -A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1. -The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave, but the -yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next to the -plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. It will -be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with -the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up the -contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord, -the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they pearl -up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other turns -to the left, making an effective border. - - -SUNKEN EFFECTS - -An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. Both -of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both -cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most -effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may -be worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy -head loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on -either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the -plaid effect aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face -warp is striped in color. The character of the figure is such that the -major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block, making it -practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom. - -In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design -independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. But -inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the -face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from -the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or -fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that a truer -and clearer shed can be obtained. - -Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from -two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so -as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. A -208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods, -allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements -of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. Such -arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the binder -and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to use -different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the -design in relief effects to the main figure as required. - - -CALCULATION FOR FIGURE DISTRIBUTION - -In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the -figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web. -As already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at -these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is -acting as filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should -heavy blocks be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly -manner. The filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it -will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face -stock from pricking through. - -In designing webs of this character, calculations have to be made from -the web after it is woven and finished, otherwise the design may be -out of the desired proportion. A web may have 60 picks per inch on the -breast plate while weaving, but when contraction has taken place after -going through the press, it may have shrunk as much as 50 per cent. -The steaming and finishing process may further contract it another 10 -per cent. which might make the picks about 100 per inch. Of these only -one-half appear on the face and the other half on the back. Therefore 50 -picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made, -and paper scaled according must be used. - - -CROSS SHOT WEAVING - -We have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle looms. -Turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of shuttles we -would first make note of what is known as the cross shot. This is a form -of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the further -element of economy, inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp can be -worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method. - -In the construction of single shuttle webs, the rubber harness rises -and falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed. This movement -creates a friction on the rubber thread at the harness eye and an added -friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent. -Friction is still further increased by the backward and forward movement -of the lay, which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot. - -In the cross shot method, the rubber remains stationary, with no upward -and downward motion, which enables the rubber thread to be stretched out -to its extreme limit while weaving, with little danger of chafing or -breaking. Over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct sheds, -one making the upper and the other the lower cloth. These two fabrics are -stitched together by the binder warp, which travels up and down through -both of these sheds. - -In order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding, it -is necessary to run these under separate back rolls, fixed at different -heights, properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness -and breast beams. - - -POSITION OF ROLLS - -Fig. 4 will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the -breast beam. It will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles -used for this type of weaving, both pointing to one common center, made -necessary by the character of the two sheds. The bow of the upper shuttle -must be tipped downwards, and the lower bank must be tipped upwards, so -as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are -passing through the sheds. - -The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in the -harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled -around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the -lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper -shuttle, and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the -outside rubber until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower -fillings are connected by what are known as tie threads. These threads -are drawn in the harness at each side of the body warp, next to the -edge, and are part of the binder warp. They are operated from the binder -harness, but are only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as -the center of the web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do -the balance of the binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use -of long looped harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads -through the one shed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Effective Combination of Weaves In a Fine Web] - -[Illustration: Figs. 2 and 3.—Sunken Effects] - -[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Position of Rolls in Relation to Breast Beam for -Cross Shot Weaving] - -The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a -longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam jacks, -or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be regulated -both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling may be -corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either. - - -USE OF DIFFERENT STOCKS AND COLORS - -The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different -grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face -warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back. -Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing -the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not -practicable in single shuttle work. - -All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this -the most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a -considerable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house -slippers, this is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the -production of a face having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the -shoe leather, while the back may be perfectly plain and white. - -It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where fancy -figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for the back, -binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these warps, -being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the labor on -the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel of the -lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection with -single shuttle. - - -THE OVERSHOT METHOD - -The overshot method, which we have previously referred to, is another -form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing -from the cross shot but equally important. This kind of weaving is -designed as a substitute for silk jacquard webs, which it has to a great -extent supplemented. Before its introduction it was customary to use a -slow running “rise and fall” lay movement, when making a silk figure with -the shuttle, putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks, -so that the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible -in overshot weaving. In the old method the silk used to pass from edge -to edge of the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle, and where the -figure did not appear it was buried between the upper and the lower -cloths. - -In the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or -border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of -sight. In the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time, while the -figure or silk shuttle only runs with every alternate pick. The main -body of the goods is woven in every respect the same as in a single -shuttle web, and it may embrace all the weaves, such as plains, twills -or fancies, which are common to single shuttle weaving. Arrangements are -made, however, for the production of an auxiliary shed, by a movement -which pulls certain threads above the main shed, and while these are -open to pass the extra shuttle under them, and thus bind in the figure -filling. The lower part of the lay has straight shuttles, while the -upper bank of shuttles is tipped down to conform to the formation of the -auxiliary shed they are designed to pass through. - -The binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated, -are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily -stand the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary -shed. The Crompton & Knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this -purpose. This special machine is provided with two horizontal draw -knives, operating any or all of the 30 hooks, and is so arranged that -the connected warp threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the -height of the main shed, or to the additional height of the auxiliary -shed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Simple Overshot Design] - -[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5] - -In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23 -hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the -binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed, -or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will -be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not -operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged -that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the -silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at -the border of the figure. - - -MAKING OVERSHOT DESIGNS - -In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk float -too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should the -design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary -to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to -break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp -figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the -dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as -to work on the pick when the binder harness is down. - -[Illustration: Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design] - -Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as the -“matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the -web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different -points, the bindings forming the figure. - -Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the -gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy -pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting -cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in -order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this, -each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are -operated from the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the -face thread in the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise -them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass -under them. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -_Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel -Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic Fabrics -Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production of Pearl -Edge—Special Fancy Drafts_ - - -Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not -possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made mention of the -frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed by the fluting of -non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part. This -same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. To accomplish -this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to -operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on which -the frill sections are drawn in. - -The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through -one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The -shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The -operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in which -the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods -for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center] - -The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of -the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will -be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side -of the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill. -The insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber -strands used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable -to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to -compensate for this. The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at -Fig. 2A. - - -WOVEN SHIRRED EFFECT - -Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be -seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to -imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of -plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing -machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic -material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side. -When the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic -part forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time -the remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side -of the elastic part. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 2] - -The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by an -interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth -and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There being -no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths together, -the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so formed. Upon -the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths are thrown -out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections in which -there is no rubber will complete the frill effect. This woven method has -in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike, whereas in -the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable and -unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of labor in -assembling the different parts. - - -NOVEL DECORATION AT EDGES - -A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy frill -at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in method. -This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks of -shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads of -cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the harness -the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a delicately -adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated on a special -harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all the other -warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far away from -the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop required. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Woven Shirred Effect] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Novel Edge Decoration] - -The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of picks, -and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in thread comes -in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it. As the -shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the -easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with -other warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the -further progress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the -same time is carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the -one in which the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects -may be produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors -may be used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and -selvages of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the -goods may be made. - - -LAPPET WEAVING - -Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been -extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design -obtainable by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity -for considerable elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment -which permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar -to embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used -it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a -plain loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain -composed of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern -desired. - -On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the lay, -which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can -also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides -have generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at -equal distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. When -slides are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over -the yarn which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth. -Then by moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and -each time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns -are produced. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Lappet Weaving] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Broken Effect on Silk Frill] - -The figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns, as shown at Fig. -5, and well adapted to narrow goods. Dots of different sizes and in -different positions may also be made, but it is not practical to get the -finely finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where -there is positive control of any particular warp threads or group of -threads, as for instance in jacquards and overshots. - -The sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its movements -so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the same -points at each repeat of the pattern, although the general design will be -maintained. The threads which feed the needles should be of good clear -ply material, free from slubs and irregularities, so that they will pass -freely through the needle eyes, and they should have enough turns to -enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and -forward sliding movements of the lay passages. The yarn must be delivered -from independent spools, which work with perfect freedom, and measures -should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs. - -The material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from grooved -spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the needles at -every forward movement of the lay. - - -PEARL EDGE - -An effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is found -in what is known as the pearl edge. This adds much to the richness of the -goods, besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight increase -of cost. The pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge wires, -which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the -frill itself. Each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it -into the weaving lines as desired, so that the filling may pass around -it and make pearl loops at these particular places. It will be found -necessary to use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in, -otherwise the dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires. - -A silk frill may also be much enriched by special fancy drafts. These -allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes -over and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks -contrasting with the more plainly woven parts. An example of this is -shown at Fig. 6. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -_Designs Produced by Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head -Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical Belts and -Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed Designs—Method of Printing_ - - -In previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production of -elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are more or -less limited in capacity, and the stock must be operated in groups of -threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns -best adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is -controllable, and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the -space available on the face of the fabric. - -Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the -production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of -jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is -necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in -the fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on -account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point, -which prevents uniform contraction. - - -DESIGNS IN SUNKEN EFFECTS - -Fig. 1 is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well -distributed. This pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure -threads brought up alternately. Both warps are buried to allow the back -filling to appear in relief. This indicates the wide scope of design -possible on a single shuttle, which is almost unlimited. - -Fig. 2 illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp effect -in connection with a silk figure. It also serves to illustrate the effect -of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes. Fig. 3 shows still another -type of double shuttle design, in which a parti-colored face warp lends -an entirely different effect to a design. Fig. 4 is an example of three -shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground, and two shuttles -for the silk figure. - -It would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design -possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary. -If a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited. -The custom generally adopted is to operate the back, rubber and gut -from chain or cam harness, as the same movement of all these threads is -maintained continuously, and to operate the face and binder from the -jacquard. Fig. 5 is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender -loom, having two machines mounted on it, and with the back and rubber -harness operated by the fancy head. - - -JACQUARD TIE-UP - -Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the -greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings. -As already stated in a previous article, any failure in the initial -arrangements will result in constant trouble and faulty work. Mispicks -and floats may not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics, -but in elastic webs a float will so pearl up on construction that the -goods will be ruined. Once again, and of the greatest importance, -measures should surely be taken to have some form of screw adjustment -for the raising and lowering of the jacquard machines to compensate for -expansion and contraction of the strings, caused by changing atmospheric -conditions. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Formation of Abdominal Belt] - - -WEAVING BUTTONHOLES - -In the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics, particularly -suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished -products. Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary -buttonhole sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in -the controlling of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a -very unsightly buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found -advisable to weave the buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the -“Guyot” suspender, where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for -the back ends, and non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used -for the front straps. - -The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired place, -and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven. This -is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, both of which are -running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one -of which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of -the goods is being woven, the other bank running “dead” underneath the -goods during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two -distinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged, -the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other -half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again -formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of -weaving the plain part of the strap. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5—Jacquard Suspender Loom With Two Machines and Fancy -Head] - -This process of changing from the single to the double shed is -accomplished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two -sections, to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one -side of the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap -both sections of the cam jack operate in unison, running side by side -from the same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for -spreading apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds -are then formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position -of the lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and -properly engage the two sheds. - -Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the -position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not -engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the -goods, and require trimming off between the buttonholes. This trimming -may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same -in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this -particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the lower -shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the goods at -every pick of the loom and does not need trimming. - -The elastic back end, having a buttonhole in it, is also made on a -special loom, which has a “rise and fall” movement of the lay. It has -a chain fancy head with what is known as a Gem multiplier on it for -regulating the length of the plain part, so that one repeat of the plain -weave can be multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on -as desired. - -In making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes, particularly -when required to be attached to garments, it is often found that the -joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness. A web -is made on the special loom just described of such character that it -does away with this objection. A section of plain web may be woven of -any desired length, and then another section made in which the upper -and lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance. After being -taken from the loom this double section is cut in the middle, so that the -non-elastic part may be used for attaching to the garment. When thus made -the rubber and binder lie “dead” between the two cloths, and are trimmed -off after the non-elastic part is cut in two. - - -MAKING ABDOMINAL BELTS - -There is a growing demand for webs of various characters for surgical and -orthopedic purposes. One of these which calls for special attention is -a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts. The width varies from -about four inches, where it is used to support the back, to about six -inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen. - -Such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain webs, -except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top to -bottom, from fine to coarse. This reed is arranged in a reed pocket -attached to the lay bed, and is designed to slide up and down behind it. -Underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism, which is so operated -that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time, and -then gradually work up and down in a given period. This allows a web to -be produced with a formation similar to that shown at Fig. 6. - -The rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part, -and gradually spread while operating at the wide part, returning to their -original position for the other narrow end. If properly constructed the -goods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends, and the opening up of -the cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give -more freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section, which -will cause the goods to “belly” at this point. This rounding formation -especially adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended. -Various modifications of the taper web may be made in this manner, but -the same general plan is applicable to all. - - -PRINTING DESIGNS ON ELASTIC WEB - -The printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment which -opens up large possibilities for variety of effect, and adds much to the -selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost. Moreover it gives -an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns which -may not have proved good sellers, but when printed will often become -the most popular patterns offered. A woven striped effect with a few -crossbars printed on, transforming it into a plaid, changes its character -entirely. Or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable -may make big changes in its selling qualities. - -But apart from this the field of original design is practically -unlimited. The work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks -of various colors, making proper arrangements for the drying so that the -colors are absolutely fast. Colors should not be used which are more or -less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing. - -The goods, when printed, are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand -a reasonable time for proper absorption of the ink. They are then run -slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors, a number of strips -being put through the drying chamber at one time. The pattern rolls are -best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern, and the ink -uniformly distributed on the raised part. Care should be used to have -the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not -appear will not come in contact with the ink roll. - -This method has proved better than using engraved rolls, besides being -less expensive. After the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate -of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing -roll, great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected, -particularly where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in -the design. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Diagram of Machine for Printing Elastic Fabrics] - -Fig. 7 is a sketch of a printing machine. The design roll A is five -inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple -wood, glued and screwed firmly together, with the grain well crossed -to prevent shrinkage and warping. The design plate is carefully fitted -around and pinned securely to this roll. The rubber covered rolls B -and C carry the ink and are positively driven. The small roll D, while -revolving by frictional contact with roll C, is also vibrated sidewise by -a cam-driven lever E, so as to distribute the ink uniformly. The rolls -are run on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given -pattern on the goods. - -All the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to the -full length of the frame bed, so that the pressure of the different rolls -can be accurately adjusted. The machines are easily operated and print -12,000 to 15,000 yards of web a day. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -_Making Warps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect -of Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web -Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for Different Styles of -Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in Goods—Rubber’s Reaction on Copper_ - - -The making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double -cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the -number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and the -different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber, it is -essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between the -face and the back of the goods. - -This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the face -and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used may -vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different. All -this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade. -These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then -again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the -take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various -weaves. - -It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser -material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these -together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used -necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The -binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also -requires a special warp. - - -SELVAGE UNDER SPECIAL CONTROL - -The general appearance of the finished product being so dependent upon -the character of the selvage, it is advisable to have these threads under -special control, so that they may be treated in the best possible manner -to produce a satisfactory shed, and allow the filling to get a good -clearance. So as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore -necessary to have this on a special beam. - -It will be seen, therefore, that in an ordinary piece of double cloth -elastic web there will be required at least five warps: back, face, -binder, edge and gut. Figures and fancy effects will often necessitate -auxiliary warps. With very fine webs, having six threads to a cord, it -is often found necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper -working conditions. Figs. 1 and 1A show a six-cord web, together with -warp calculations for the goods. - -The employment of so many warps to each strip of web, which are -automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in -a previous article, prohibits the use of warps where the threads are -equally distributed across the beam, as is the practice in wide fabrics, -the method usually being to tape them on the beams. - - -WARPING MACHINE - -The required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in a -creel, each thread passing under an electrically connected wire, which -is held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making. -If the thread should break, the wire would drop and make an electrical -connection which would automatically stop the machine. Fig. 2 shows -a view of a warping machine such as is used for this work. They are -generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams, all of which -may be run together or started, stopped or run individually, as required. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Six-Cord Web] - -[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1] - -Each beam is friction driven so that a uniform speed is obtained in the -delivery of the yarn from the spools. Beams are also so arranged that -they will stop automatically on reaching a given size. Each warp thread -is passed through a pair of reeds, fitted with dead stops in the center -of alternating dent spaces, so that leases may be put in the warps at -fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms. - -In taping the warps on the beams, it is customary in some mills to run -the threads over a small steel flanged pulley about one and one-half -inches wide, which will keep each thread in its proper position and make -the tape absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam. A perfect -fabric is largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made, but -it must not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam. - -Beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards, but -should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel, which -should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges clear, -and thus reduce the friction to a minimum. The edges of the flanges -should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the -contact lever. Much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might be -avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Warping Machine] - - -QUILLS FOR SHUTTLES - -The making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small -importance, for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very -much depends. When flanged wood quills are used, the guides should be -carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the -entire length of the quill, allowing for perfect freedom at each end -without dragging. Quills should not be overloaded. In drum pressure -quilling, the automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be -filled even with the outer edge of the flanges and no more. - -Should there be any tendency to hardness in the material used for -filling, it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on -which has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil, but great -care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so -hurtful to rubber goods as oil. - -The quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform -delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends. To assist in this -elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones, so as to shorten the -angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme -end. Thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from -start to finish. The quill flanges should not lie flat against the -sides of the quill opening, but should be pointed at the ends so as to -reduce the friction. Quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be -perfectly straight at all times. When it becomes necessary to run narrow -goods in wide spaces, recoil springs should be provided to gather up the -loose filling. - - -CARE REQUIRED IN FINISHING - -The finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care, -and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web -construction. Calculations must always be made as to what effect heat, -moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads, -confined as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high -tension. As soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate -upon the covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads, the rubber -strands begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place. -To what extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values, and a -certain degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for. - -Webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the looms are -liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely ruined -by unsuitable finishing. For instance, take a web with a twill center -and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the -loom. The effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract -the soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border, which -will cause the web to be long-sided and curl. Such a condition must be -anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset -its occurrence. Sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of -some of the yarns used, or number of threads employed at given points, -or perhaps added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in -certain places. It must always be remembered that we are dealing with -a very much alive element when we are finishing rubber goods, and that -unexpected results may at any time arise. - - -FINISHING MACHINES - -Finishing machines vary both in design and capacity, but the general -principle is the same in all. A series of drying cans are arranged -for the application of the sizing mixture. Some machines are laid out -horizontally and some are upright. In the longitudinal layout the -machines are more easily accessible in their different parts and under -better control, while the upright machines are more compact and occupy -less floor space. Fig. 3 shows a horizontal machine of the latest -type. It has a drying capacity of eleven cylinders, 24 inches wide, 36 -inches in diameter, allowing for a web contact of about 100 feet. These -cylinders are arranged in two decks so as to economize in floor space. - -The goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular -brushes, fixed at the feed end of the machine, to clear them from lint -and dirt before being steamed and dried. They next pass between two pairs -of nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments. -The goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in -a steam chest. They pass into and out of this chest through slots -underneath the cover. A trough carries the condensed steam away from the -goods and prevents dripping, otherwise they would be spotted. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Narrow Fabric Finishing Machine] - -The steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform -shrinkage of the goods. The steaming process softens the cotton, and the -rubber threads, which are under considerable tension, gradually creep up -and contract the goods. The steaming also makes the web more absorbent -and thus prepares it for the size bath, through which it is passed under -submerged brass rollers. The size is kept at a uniform heat by steam -heated copper coils. The web then passes through the second pair of nip -rolls, which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size -before the web reaches the drying cans. - - -ALLOWANCE FOR CONTRACTION - -The first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth, so as to absorb -any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow it to -penetrate by further softening. As the goods continue to pass over the -hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place. This contraction -is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans. -Intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose, so that -the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of -different kinds of web. - -The two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently -driven, so as to provide for the shrinkage which takes place at the steam -box and size bath. At the delivery end of the machine the goods pass -through a set of nip rolls which are belt-driven from cone pulleys, so as -to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying -cans. From these last nip rolls, which are fixed quite high, they drop -into receiving cans or boxes. - -Ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time. -Adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to -keep the goods running in proper position. The speed of the machine is -usually governed by a Reeves transmission, and the delivery of the goods -ranges from 10 to 15 yards per minute, according to the requirements of -finishing. Three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage, -but this again is determined by the goods. Neglect at any point in this -process may so interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and -costs are materially changed. - -New patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the -goods come from the loom, as short lengths made in sample looms are not -at all times reliable. Frequent tests are also advisable to see that -original conditions are maintained, as changes made by heat, steam and -speed are always liable to occur. - -The immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs. Double -cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back only. -Exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset trade, -which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this bathing -process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are to be -associated with. Where the goods are sized on the back only the effect of -this has to be considered when they are constructed, and provision made -to maintain a proper balance under such conditions. - -In frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized, so as not to interfere -in any way with the soft flutings of the frill. This is done by guiding -each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath. The -size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over -them. - - -ACID IN GOODS - -The requirements of the trade are so varied, and the types of web so -numerous, that no formula for size is suitable for general use. Care must -be taken, however, to avoid any sizes containing acids. Results from the -use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on, -when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts, the -metal is quickly tarnished, and the result may be heavy claims for damage. - -It may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of -vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans -and the rolls over which the goods must pass. This can be effectively -prevented by having the cans nickel plated, thus doing away with much -risk of dirty goods, and of constant scourings and washing of the -different parts. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Narrow Fabric Singer] - -Provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that -they will hold a liberal supply of size. Replenishment should be made at -regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform temperature to get -satisfactory results. It is advisable to make provisions to travel the -web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the -size bath, and before it strikes the hot cans, so as to allow for proper -absorption of the size. - -All these details are best worked out by experience. Webs are generally -fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up, and -great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs when -entering the machine. - -On lisle webs, a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to -finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods. -Fig. 4 shows a gassing machine used for this purpose. It is run at a high -rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once. When the machine is -running the flames are close to the web, but upon the stopping of the -machine the flames are carried away out of contact. In gassing white and -colors, great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and -free from any carbonizing effect on the goods. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -_Embossing Webs—Type of Construction and Design for Which Process is -Adapted—Braiding Flat Elastic Fabrics, Plain Cords for Athletics and -Airplanes, and Fancy Cords—How Sizes Are Indicated—Difference Between -Woven and Braided Effects_ - - -The embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not -adapted for long stretch webs. - -It has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch, suitable for use -in the manufacture of suspenders. In long stretch webs the patterns -will not stand out prominently for any length of time. After repeated -stretchings and wear, they lose much of the desirable sharpness of -detail, and become flat and indistinct. Twills and loose weaves of a -similar character should be avoided for embossing. The best results are -obtained on firm, closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the -design with clearness and retain it for a greater length of time. - - -DESIGNS SUITABLE FOR EMBOSSING - -In planning such work it is well to avoid designs which run for any great -length with the warp, and to select effects where the general run of the -design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads, rather than -with them. This will prolong the life of the figure. - -The process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid -goods. The machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure. -It should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat -while in contact with the embossing roll. The webs should pass through -a steam softening process just ahead of the embossing. This steaming is -done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box, the web -passing through slots at either side. It puts the goods in condition to -receive and retain the impress of the figure. - - -EMBOSSING MACHINE - -Figs. 1 and 2 show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics. It -consists chiefly of a heavy frame A, a case hardened steel roll B on -which the design has previously been engraved, and a hard paper roll C. -The engraved steel roll B is heated with steam and may be subjected to -heavy pressure by turning the hand wheels D. - -When putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll, it is necessary -to run the machine empty for a few hours, gradually applying the pressure -at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper roll so as -to get a strong impress on the goods. When moire-antique or water effects -are desired, the embossing rolls are engraved with straight lines of the -desired distance apart, and the goods are fed into the machine after -passing over irregularly formed rollers, which prevent them from going -through the machine straight. Fig. 3 is an example of this effect, with -the gros grain in the middle water-marked, and bordered with a fancy -effect not embossed. - - -BRAIDING ELASTIC FABRICS - -The braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with -weaving. It does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects, -but a great variety of elastic goods are braided, which serve many -purposes. Round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber -thread, such as is used for the protection of eye glasses, to the -covering of multiple rubber threads for making a cord which may be one -inch or more in diameter. Some of these cords are used by professional -athletes in acrobatic work. Large quantities of heavy cord are now used -for shock absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes, and they are much -used for corset laces and doll cords. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Embossing Machine] - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.—End View] - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Embossed Water-Marked Effect on Middle stripe] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.—At Top, Cord Used by Acrobats; At Bottom, Exercise -Cord In Two Colors] - -The braiding machines are small and compact, and are generally operated -in gangs on benches. One operator can care for many machines, as they -stop automatically when a thread breaks. Each machine may consist of a -variable number of spool carriers, according to the character of the -work they are engaged on. Carriers are made to travel around cam-like -grooves formed in the bed of the machine, being operated by a chain of -gears which propel them around a predetermined course. Gears and slots -are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross each -other in their passage, so that the various threads of yarn carried are -plaited around the strands of rubber. The spools used on the carriers are -specially designed, and have a series of notches on the upper end, into -which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different covering -threads, automatically stopping the machine. - -The rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving. These beams -are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or belts, on -which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep -the rubber at a high tension. The beams are hung on brackets underneath -the machines. If cords are being made, the rubber is delivered through a -central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering -threads may be plaited around it. As there is no friction on the rubber -threads delivered in this manner (like the friction in weaving caused -by the repeated passage of the reed), the rubber can be worked at the -highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking, and -economical results in this respect are obtainable. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.—At Bottom. Flat Braid Contracted; At Top, the Same -Braid Before Contraction] - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.—At Bottom, Braided Frill; At Top, the Same Frill -Before Contraction] - - -FLAT BRAIDS - -Where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately -through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in -and out between these threads, binding them together side by side so -that they are flat as in a woven fabric. By this method each of the -different covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to -the other, giving them a diagonal direction across the fabric. This -diagonal crossing and recrossing of the covering threads allows for the -introduction of different colors, which produce a plaid-like effect. - -In making the flat braid, when the individual rubber threads pass through -the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the machine, -they all gather to one common center after they are through. This causes -the rubber threads, when they are at a very high tension, to draw at a -very acute angle at the edge of the hole, which necessitates running them -at a lower tension than is desirable for economy. It also introduces a -liability to break under the strain. In some mills this is cared for -by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller, thus -avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole. - - -SIZES OF CORDS - -The sizes of cords are determined by the Birmingham wire gauge as follows -(Diameters in decimal parts of an inch): - - Size 1 .300 - Size 2 .284 - Size 3 .259 - Size 4 .238 - Size 5 .220 - Size 6 .203 - Size 7 .180 - Size 8 .165 - -In sizing or measuring the cord, it is passed easily into the gauge, so -that it hugs the sides without crowding. Any cords made heavier than a -No. 1 are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths. - -It becomes necessary in making heavy round cords, such as are used by -athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes, to have a very durable -covering over the strands of rubber. Such a covering is put on by using -double deck machines, where above the regular machine there is another -bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided -fabric coming up from the lower deck. In such cases the inner covering is -generally a cheap coarse material, while the upper deck of carriers braid -the outer covering around it, which is of a higher grade material, often -a highly glazed polished thread. - -Machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of -different character that are required. Provision is made to carry -the rubber beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine, which -are of sufficient strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight -necessary for governing the rubber tension. Above the machine there is a -gear-driven take-up shaft, on which are tension rolls to govern the feed -of the goods when braiding. The speed of these rolls can be regulated by -change gears of various sizes. The goods are then fed on a belt-driven -spool. On the very heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other -press rolls to prevent any slipping back when feeding from the braiders. - - -FANCY BRAIDED CORDS - -The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied uses, -makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction. In -the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much the -same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the -travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed -up singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and -out between them. A different machine is required for the various widths -and number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each -strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid -requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width -of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods -determined upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and -character of the material used for covering. - -On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when -braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will -produce variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric, -inasmuch as the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same -width is maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding, -the threads move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the -place of both warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no -matter whether it is produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed -material or take-up, results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise -position of the threads is brought into a new position which is more of a -crosswise formation. - -This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for very -effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A -fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at -the outer edges. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR - -_Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are -Obtained—Cloth Construction_ - - -Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain -piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of -this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed -for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted -to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is -produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in -collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production. - -There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the -production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is -devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van -Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves -the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer -part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining -together of the two parts as formerly. - -The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a -greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band, -properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar -in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the -scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production -of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are -different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric. - - -HEAVY LOOM REQUIRED - -The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to -withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the -filling, where an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual -piece must be carried. The looms which are now being used have from -12 to 16 pieces, so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid -indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces, -and maintain uniform picking. In order also to get the requisite shed -opening, the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe, so that -provision for ample strength at these parts is essential. - - -CONE-SHAPED TAKE-UP ROLL - -The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a -cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope -of 1 inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight -roll, which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the -slack delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of -the swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight -roll to set in proper position over the cone. - -At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped -take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1 -[Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here -from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense] -the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a -free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at -least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over -which the cloth passes. - - -WOVEN IN THREE WIDTHS - -The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and 5¼ -inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so -as to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed -over these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side -of the web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into -sections and carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect -clearance in the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly. - - -THE WEAVE - -The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face, -back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face -and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads -required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one. - - WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR - - 4¼ Inch 4¾ Inch 5¼ Inch - - No. of Threads Weight No. of Threads No. of Threads - Warps (60/2) Carried Warps (60/2) Warps (60/2) - Face 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 - Face 2 82 7 lbs. each 2 92 2 104 - Back 1 198 13 lbs. each 1 218 2 238 - Back 1 164 12 lbs. each 1 184 2 208 - Binder 1 99 10 lbs. each 1 109 1 119 - Binder 1 78 7 lbs. each 1 88 1 100 - Gut 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 - Gut 2 78 7 lbs. each 2 88 2 100 - -It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back -rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for -2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which -will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which -together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it -convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads -straight and confined to the limitations of space available. - -[Illustration: Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth] - - -METHOD OF REEDING - -The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each -dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a -26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next, -splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier, -and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by -the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching -process. - -[Illustration: Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar] - -The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar -is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the -desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of -the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to -meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of -the collar desired. - -There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are -more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P. -yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached -afterwards. - - - - -Knitted Narrow Fabrics - -By WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A. - -_Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn -Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for Wires and -Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for Trimmings—Use of Core Thread -to Give Strength_ - - -Knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions and -adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines. Several -important concerns in this line have recently been active in producing -types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow fabrics for -various purposes. - -The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been -recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge -how closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there -is not the necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting. -The machine generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of -stocking knitter containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to -be employed as a sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a -full stocking machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use -the ribber or dial which is always supplied. - -The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning -factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is -satisfactory for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the -machine by hand, owing to the small lengths required and the frequent -changes necessary when testing different colors and qualities. - -The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the bearded -needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also owing to -the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give good -work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions. It -is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various -colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine. - -This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and -thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for -knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths on -a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and this -fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being -produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different -diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose. - -In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven -metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be -used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp -edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material -into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest -efficiency. - -Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what -are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary -mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually -made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch -needle, and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the -needles a gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation -of air as well as affording a clean method of handling the meat and -protecting it in the course of transport on ship, train and truck. - - -PLAIN KNITTED TUBE - -Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products of -the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what -an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the -knitting industry. Fig. 1 shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular -form on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40 -needles in the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are -40 stitches shown here in flat form. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2] - -[Illustration: Fig. 3 Fig. 4] - -It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering -wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity -than woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more -simple and direct manner. It should be pointed out, however, that this -fabric is susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a -little further strain will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus -it is clear that it cannot be used by itself to any great extent in -cases where great strain or pull will be applied to it. Made in suitable -materials, there is nothing to hinder this tube from serving as lamp -wicks. - - -INTRODUCTION OF FANCY STITCH - -Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one -needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known -as “tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its -thread for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second -thread on the next course so that two threads are knocked over together, -giving rise to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration. - -This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch -which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the -result that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles -unless it receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second -course. All the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with -the single stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles -in the circumference, one needle would be inserted with this extra long -latch to give a tuck stitch right down the tube. - -As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made -to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube. -According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in -the middle or at the side. - -Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3 and -4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch is -made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is -inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the -circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second -vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric -directly under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of -making the tuck stitch more pronounced. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5 Fig. 6] - -[Illustration: Fig. 7 Fig. 8] - -In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by -having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the -tube, and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them -on the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch -needles in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect, -the tube as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as -to show the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out -of alignment at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern. - - -USE FOR TRIMMINGS - -In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found -extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or -cut trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented -at a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these -touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the -work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install -such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary -knitting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics. - - -PATTERNS WITH COLORED YARNS - -Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this -principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics -suitable for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric -produced on a machine of still narrower dimensions, having only -12 needles in the circumference of the machine. In this case the -pattern effect is introduced by having several feeds of thread in the -circumference; three different colors are employed and introduced in the -order of one white, one black, and one tan all the way down the fabric, -thus giving rise to a style of pattern which is very suitable for many -purposes of the knitting manufacturer, particularly of outer garments. -There are three yarn feeds round the circumference of this machine and -every revolution of the machine creates three courses in the three colors -named. - -It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a -decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as -would be approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is -one of the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds -are used. They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects -appear at an angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the -reverse, as it takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces -attractive effects in twill fashion similar to what can only be created -in woven goods by the aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting -of the cloth. - -Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging parts -of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable -finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature, -these bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth -which will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied, -enabling the garment to retain its shape. - - -KNITTED CORDS - -Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle -knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two -feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying -green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The -material is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is -employed for threading through certain garments which have a kind of open -trimming through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the -drawing together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords -are provided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further -ornamental feature. - -Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same -machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green. -This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be -produced to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply -replaced with another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this -pattern again a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the -direction of the right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect. - - -USE OF CORE THREAD - -In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic -and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this -event it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run -into the machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made -of some strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above -the machine. That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the -center of the circle of needles so that it is completely covered by -the knitted fabric. Its use considerably strengthens the cord and makes -it suitable for certain purposes for which it otherwise would not be -satisfactory. - -Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of machine -where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked with -two yarn feeds, one black and one white, giving a one and one black -and white effect in the cord. For this style it is necessary to have a -core thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the -knitting proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be -quite round in effect. - -The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle by -an arrangement such as is supplied with the Union Special sewing machine, -where the latch needle works by power, enters its loop and takes the new -thread, which it draws through the old one, thus making an endless chain -of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the ground -work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine. - - -THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW -FABRICS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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