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+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #68583 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68583)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Elastic and non-elastic narrow
-fabrics, by Samuel Brown
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics
-       and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
-
-Authors: Samuel Brown
-         William Davis
-
-Release Date: July 21, 2022 [eBook #68583]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading
-             Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from
-             images generously made available by The Internet
-             Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC
-NARROW FABRICS ***
-
-
-
-
-
-
-                         Elastic and Non-Elastic
-                              Narrow Fabrics
-
-                            _By_ SAMUEL BROWN
-
-                     and a Chapter on Narrow Fabrics
-                        Made on Knitting Machines
-
-                         _By_ WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A.
-
-         This book originally appeared serially in TEXTILE WORLD
-                 and has been republished in this form at
-                   the urgent request of many readers.
-
-                        BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
-                            TEXTILE PUBLISHERS
-                       334 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK
-
-                              Copyright 1923
-                        BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
-                                 New York
-
-
-
-
-Elastic and Non-Elastic Narrow Fabrics
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I.
-
-_Growth of Webbing Business—Attempts to Substitute Cut Products for
-Individually Woven Webs Made on Gang Looms—Loom Setting to Reduce
-Vibration—Capacity of Looms and Explanation of the Various Motions That
-Are Employed_
-
-
-When we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect
-it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big things,
-such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber tires in
-constant use. These may crowd from our notice a thousand and one smaller
-things of importance. It is difficult to fully realize how many comforts
-and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among them is
-the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort and
-convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes. It is
-not only in such things as garters and suspenders, with which our minds
-may first associate elastic webs, that these fabrics are used, but they
-find employment in a variety of other products, which are growing more
-numerous all the time. Today there are in operation thousands of looms
-and braiders, in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the
-operation of which, together with complementary machinery, about ten
-thousand people are employed.
-
-It was about the year 1840 when the idea of weaving threads of elastic
-in connection with other materials was first conceived. After long
-experiments this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving.
-New ideas were from time to time introduced, and new uses found for the
-product, until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy
-weaves, and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them
-who are not closely associated with the business.
-
-
-AMERICAN INDUSTRY STARTED ABOUT 1860
-
-It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving was
-introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous
-England and Germany, and also France in a small way, had found here a
-market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring,
-which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity. About
-1860, a few looms which had been used, were brought over from England
-and located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring
-commenced. The rubber thread required was for some time imported from
-England. The business grew rapidly, and factories were established in
-a number of cities, more particularly at Boston, Lowell and Brockton,
-Mass., Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute
-took place about the year 1890, which developed into a long-drawn out
-strike, ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the
-goring web manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of
-this product from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms
-which were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and
-are now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing,
-it may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought
-from England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work
-along other lines.
-
-
-ATTEMPTS TO USE WIDE LOOMS
-
-Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide
-looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps
-at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were
-woven in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to
-the different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed
-to meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch
-as the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth.
-Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were
-arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite
-widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife
-edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new
-positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual
-strips.
-
-While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs in
-gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced
-having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the
-individually woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would
-give way, so that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and
-ultimately the demand for them died out.
-
-Attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in another
-direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth, one to form
-the back, and the other to form the face of the goods, with an elastic
-substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two. These
-different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips
-of the desired widths. This method was not without many advantages.
-Strips of different widths were easily made without the costly method
-of redrawing the warps in the looms. An unlimited choice of both plain
-and fancy fabrics could be used, having if desired distinctly different
-appearances and constructions for face and back, and this alone opened
-up a wide range of possibilities. The finished cloth lent itself
-admirably to fancy embossing and printing and to various other forms of
-elaboration. But somehow the trade did not take to it, and this also
-finally died out.
-
-The trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of
-all kinds, both plains and fancies, in gang looms, and the business has
-steadily grown ever since along these lines.
-
-
-STRAIGHT SHUTTLE AND CIRCULAR SHUTTLE LOOMS
-
-The looms employed are very varied, inasmuch as the requirements cover
-a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands. The
-simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs such
-as are mostly used for garters, and which are also used for many other
-simple purposes in nearly every household. These webs are commonly known
-as loom webs, lisles and cables. They are generally made on plain,
-narrow, cam looms, some of which are capable of accommodating as many as
-56 pieces or strips at one time.
-
-There are two distinct types of loom employed, one of which is known as
-the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom. In the
-former type, the straight shuttle, in traveling across the different
-spaces, takes up more room than the circular shuttle, and thus somewhat
-curtails the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom, limiting
-capacity of production, and relatively increasing the cost. Very few of
-the straight shuttle looms accommodate more than 36 shuttles, according
-to the width of the goods required. The circular shuttles travel over a
-segment of a circle and cross over each other’s tracks in their movement
-through the shed, as shown in Fig. 1. This permits the crowding of the
-pieces of web closer together, so that many more can be accommodated in
-the same loom space than when the straight shuttle is used. This type
-sometimes runs as high as 56 shuttles to the loom.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Circular Shuttle Webbing Loom]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Rack and Pinion Movement for Actuating Shuttles]
-
-
-PREVENT LOOM VIBRATION
-
-These looms often are speeded as high as 180 picks per minute. To operate
-at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory goods,
-free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or
-variable momentum in running, a very heavy type of loom is necessary.
-They should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all
-possible vibration. A solid concrete floor into which timbers have been
-properly set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into
-them is the ideal way, but where this is not practicable at least heavy
-foundation timbers for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged. The
-frames of the looms should be heavy; also the main driving shaft, which
-should have wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the
-wearing points and obviate loose play in the boxes.
-
-The crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough of
-them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lay without
-liability to take on any loose motion, which would be fatal to the
-production of perfect goods. Weight and strength here is very essential,
-inasmuch as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to
-the lay on account of the harness movement, and they must be built to
-drop below the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at
-the beat of the lay. They should also be made adjustable, each arm having
-a heavy left and right threaded insert, so that the length of the weaving
-line may be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs.
-They should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up.
-
-The lay itself must necessarily be very heavy. It is generally
-constructed of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds, so as
-to avoid any possibility of warping and shrinkage. The shuttles used are
-mostly made of applewood. While they must run smooth and be free from
-the risk of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be
-freely drawn across the multiple of web spaces. It will be easily seen
-that the drawing of so many shuttles over a space of about three times
-their length, at possibly 180 picks per minute, carrying and delivering
-the necessary weft to the webs, each thread of weft being checked to a
-certain extent by friction springs, requires great care and thought in
-construction. Shuttle wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will
-not serve the purpose.
-
-The shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to
-accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling, together with the
-necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions. Each
-shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion
-of a fine recoil spring, which is made fast at one end of the drilled
-hole at the back of the shuttle. To the other end of the spring is
-attached a small porcelain eye, through which is threaded the weft,
-making it possible to govern and take up by the action of the spring the
-loose filling which is thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses
-through the shed. These side recoil springs are not only useful for the
-taking up of the loose filling but allow for a variety of threading up
-methods, so as to assist in the governing of the tension of the weft at
-one or both sides of the web, and thus afford a means of weaving the
-goods level. They aid in correcting any tendency to long and short sided
-goods, of which we will say more later.
-
-At the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring on
-which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill,
-and can be so regulated as to govern the tension. This spring is so
-tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made.
-
-
-RACK AND PINION MOVEMENT
-
-The shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by
-what is known as the rack and pinion movement. (See Fig. 2). This method
-has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs.
-The rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed,
-A, the entire length of the loom. To the rack is attached leather straps
-G, or heavily woven fabric straps, with which the rack B is pulled to
-and fro at each pick of the loom. The rack is of wood, having rounded
-teeth-paced approximately one-third of an inch apart. Into the rack are
-meshed pinions C, two to carry each shuttle E, the teeth of which are
-correspondingly spaced. The rack is set into a wood carrier which is
-about one inch deep and one inch wide, and the full length of the lay.
-The pinions are made of either raw hide or paper fibre, and these pinions
-again mesh into a series of racks D, grooved in on the under side of each
-shuttle, and thus drive the shuttle to and fro across the web spaces J.
-
-The constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the
-top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom
-of the rack. It therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a
-false bottom of wood of about ¼-inch thick, which after becoming worn by
-constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken
-out and replaced by a new one, thus keeping the rack and pinions and
-shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other.
-
-The rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned straps,
-which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by
-means of wood screws, or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for
-this purpose. These straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams
-set on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom. The
-power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood
-pulleys, moving backwards and forwards, which are so formed as to start
-and stop the shuttles slowly, and to operate them at a higher rate of
-speed during their passage through the middle of the shed. This movement
-is necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the
-weaving shed before the harness is properly settled, and also to soften
-the hammering at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and
-tear.
-
-It might be well to note here also that this hammering is also softened
-by the placing of a piece of soft rubber H at each end of the rack run,
-so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home. While
-the cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement
-most desirable for the travel of the shuttle, it has its drawback in the
-momentum produced, which it is often found difficult to control.
-
-The Crompton & Knowles Loom Works have designed a shuttle motion which
-effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles
-while they are entering, passing through, and leaving the shed, by a
-dwelling movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating
-slotted rocker. It is absolutely positive in action and does away with
-the uncontrollable and erratic movement so often met with in the cam
-drive.
-
-
-MOVEMENT OF HARNESSES
-
-Four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs
-which are used for ordinary purposes. However, it is not the practice to
-confine looms to the limitations of this capacity, but to put in either 8
-or 12-pick cams. These, besides providing means to make the plain weave,
-open up possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of
-weaves, which add materially to the usefulness of the loom.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Direct Cam Movement]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Loom with Side Cam Method of Harness Control]
-
-There are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this
-character for the making of ordinary webs. One is known as the direct
-cam drive, where the cams are fitted on a 4 to 1 shaft, as shown in
-Fig. 3, which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is
-communicated to the harnesses through a series of levers A, rocking poles
-B, levers C, and lifting wires to the harness D.
-
-The other movement is known as the end-cam method, where a small shaft
-is set at the end of the loom, running at right angles to the driving
-shaft (See Fig. 4) from which it is driven by bevel gears. On this short
-shaft are set the cams, usually 8 or 12 in number, which have a series of
-grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different
-positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft. These
-cams operate what is known as the cam jacks, which may also be seen in
-Fig. 4.
-
-The jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and forwards by
-the cams, communicating movement to the various harnesses. The harnesses
-are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks. This connection at
-both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms at a very high
-rate of speed, as there are no weights or springs to contend with, which
-limits speed.
-
-While the first described method of direct cams has some advantages
-over the end cams, such looms are not nearly so economical to operate
-as the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable. While the
-harnesses are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by
-weights or springs. The means of shed adjustment, however, enables the
-attaining of a well graded shed. Furthermore, the cams themselves can be
-so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the
-different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be
-obtained. But the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves
-attainable, which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method.
-
-When the direct cam movement is used, and where the goods being woven are
-of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom, it is
-practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide flat
-weights of the requisite size. But where higher speed is required than is
-advisable for weighted harnesses, springs are more desirable.
-
-The simplest form of pulling do the harnesses is by the use of floor
-blocks and direct springs. There is, however, a disadvantage in using the
-direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift
-of the harness is reached, which necessarily increases materially the
-power expended in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain. The
-better way is to use what is known as spring jacks, which have an easier
-pull than the direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull,
-diminishing from the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at
-the extreme lift on the lever, so that the load is uniformly distributed
-all through the movement and less power is employed.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II.
-
-_Looms Should Be Adapted to Make a Wide Variety of Goods—Take-Up and
-Let-Off Motions—Making the Rubber Warps for Different Classes of
-Web—Importance of Uniform Tension—Defects from Uneven Tension and Chafing
-of Threads_
-
-
-The greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the
-harness. On account of the great length it becomes necessary that
-everything possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging,
-for the least irregularity which may be developed will of course
-interfere with the evenness of the shed. The harness frames must be made
-of the very best stock obtainable, thoroughly seasoned, and absolutely
-straight grained. Each frame must be supported at regular and frequent
-intervals by stays or supports mortised in the runners. These stays
-are slotted at top and bottom to receive the heddle bars and keep
-them accurately in line, and thus prevent them from catching on the
-neighboring harness during the operation of the shedding process.
-
-It is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately
-spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily
-on the bars, and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a
-tendency to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the
-shed. Steel heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or
-less and get out of alignment. They are made from tempered steel which is
-very flexible and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly
-catch or chafe the warp threads. They adjust themselves automatically
-to the frame and cannot twist or bend while at work, and are made to
-accommodate themselves to every conceivable kind of goods.
-
-
-INSTALL LOOMS FOR WIDE RANGE
-
-In installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make
-ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different
-fabrics which may from time to time be required. In the manufacture
-of the light single cloth garter webs, not more than two warps to the
-piece are required, a face warp and a gut warp, and the temptation to
-save a little in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of
-creel spaces to immediate requirements. Added expense may seem for the
-time being an unnecessary burden. But very soon there may arise a call
-for other goods which cannot be made within the limitations of the two
-bank creel; therefore changes become necessary which are generally much
-heavier than first cost would have been.
-
-Nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed. Many times the
-availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division to
-care for the various weaves and materials employed in some constructions.
-If the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first
-starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers,
-buttons, etc., which may be procured later. But by all means ample
-provision should be made for the full frame work and supporting rods for
-same.
-
-
-TAKE-UP MOTION
-
-Another important consideration is to make proper provision for a
-reliable take-up motion, so that the goods may be taken away from the
-reed while weaving without any liability to variableness. This liability
-was present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the
-mills today. The old-time fine ratchet gear, even when provided with
-a number of pawls, is always liable to erratic picking, which alone
-will ruin an otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change
-the cost of manufacturing. A slight irregularity of picking may not be
-discernible in non-elastic goods, which will be satisfactory so long as
-the variableness is not easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per
-inch is maintained. But in elastic goods, where the contraction takes
-place after they leave the press rolls, every irregularity is revealed
-and intensified so there is no room to take chances. The only safe way is
-to employ picking gears making one tooth to each pick of the loom, and
-then to change the gears when different picking becomes necessary.
-
-In many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision
-made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when
-a joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while
-weaving, or where a quill may have run off unnoticed. It is almost
-impossible to make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism
-being provided for this purpose. In some of the slow running looms
-provision is made for this by the operation of each set of rolls
-independently (see Fig. 1), by means of the ratchet gear and pawl A and
-worm motion B. This plan has the one disadvantage of taking up too much
-space between the individual pieces. Where the fabric woven is say four
-or five inches wide, and the space will admit, it is all that can be
-desired, and the individually weighted rollers C associated with the
-motion are admirably adapted to variable pressure.
-
-For the very narrow elastic fabrics, which require considerable roller
-pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving, and where it is
-necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred,
-a better movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main
-take-up shaft in the form of a sleeve. It is carried around by the shaft
-as it turns while the goods are being woven, but can be released and
-turned both backwards and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel,
-which operates a series of differential gears. This movement is entirely
-independent of the movement of the main take-up shaft drive.
-
-
-TENSION ON RUBBER WARP
-
-Too much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the
-tension of the rubber warp. On its uniformity depends not only the
-quality, but also the cost of the web. The greater the weight of slack
-rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer
-the quality. A very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the
-tension of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods.
-
-The rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking or
-chafing of the thread takes place. Each rubber thread should be under
-this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the
-desired contraction will take place uniformly, and a flat piece of web
-will be produced that will have plenty of life.
-
-It must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber which
-constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs, working
-in unison with each other. Each one should have equal power to contract
-the fabric at its own particular part. If any one of these strands or
-springs is chafed and weakened, it lessens the contracting power, and
-the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively
-greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained
-their full power.
-
-Moreover, the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed
-particles of rubber pricking through the face, particularly on the white
-and lighter colored goods. Before such webs can be marketed they must be
-subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles, which
-is accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded, cloth covered
-roller, which will remove the loose particles by friction and high
-velocity. But this operation adds to the cost.
-
-A high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that most
-manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the threads,
-instead of leaving this matter to the weavers. These testers acquire
-such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and
-satisfactory results. Talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to
-reduce the risk of chafing and breaking of the rubber threads. The warps
-are arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush,
-loaded with talc, which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work
-very smoothly. This is especially important in damp weather, which is the
-worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods. At times factories have
-stopped operations when the weather was especially humid.
-
-
-LET-OFF MOTION
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Individual Take-Up Motion for Wide Space Looms]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Individual Rubber Warp Let-Off Motion]
-
-When we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads
-possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed
-to their reaching the leaving line, it is not to be wondered at that
-chafing is liable to take place. With all this liability of spoiling
-goods it becomes readily apparent that any device employed to regulate
-such an important feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very
-sensitive and dependable.
-
-On looms making wide goods, and where space will allow, regulation is
-accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in Fig. 2. The iron
-rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft A, at one end of which a
-gear wheel B is fastened. In this gear is meshed the worm C, which is
-operated by a heavy linen cord D passed twice around a pulley E. The cord
-derives its movement from a rocking shaft F, on which there is fastened a
-screw extension G, by which adjustment can be made so as to deliver very
-accurately any amount from the rubber beam.
-
-With this kind of movement, and in order to feed the thread uniformly
-into the web, it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where
-the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the
-beams. The warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in
-individual warps, which are done up in chain form, each warp containing
-the requisite number of threads.
-
-
-MAKING RUBBER WARPS
-
-The machine used for making the warps, shown at Fig. 3, is mounted on an
-iron frame A, which carries the power driven warp beam B. Behind this is
-an open top expansion reed C, the dents of which are regulated to open,
-coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand wheel.
-This reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering. Behind the
-reed C are fixed two pairs of nip rolls, D and E, and an open roller
-F, which is followed by a belt-driven beater roll G, used to beat the
-threads out straight as they leave the chain.
-
-The rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor, under the beater
-roll. The end is then passed over the beater roll G, over the open roll
-F, through the two pairs of nip rolls D and E, over the expansion reed C,
-and then looped to a leader on the rubber beam, where the knot is put in
-a counter-sink on the beam barrel, so as not to interfere with the lay
-of the warp. The section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls
-is brought down in loop form, shown at H, and the nip rolls are then
-closed while the warp is in this position. The two sets of nip rolls are
-speeded alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping
-points, so that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls,
-D, are perfectly gauged in length and tension when passing through the
-reed C and on to the beam B. The threads of rubber are under considerable
-tension, inasmuch as the beam B is driven faster than the nip rolls D and
-E.
-
-
-FRICTION LET-OFF
-
-Where there is limited loom space, and where a small number of threads
-are employed, as in the narrower garter fabrics, it is not as practical
-to have the warps made mechanically, and for this reason they are not
-likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension. In
-such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will
-correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout.
-The device for doing this is shown at Fig. 4.
-
-The warp carrier A is fastened to the back rail, which carries the warp,
-over which is passed the friction cloth G which is hung from a rod D.
-The friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp lever
-E, which is bolted to the bottom rail H, as shown. The rubber threads
-constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness C, and then
-to the breast beam B. The lever E, and the weights F, allow for proper
-adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as the
-warp beam empties.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Rubber Warping Machine]
-
-In making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and
-suspenders, where the last described method of warp delivery takes place,
-it is customary to work from an entire sheet of rubber, splitting it up
-into the required sections or strips of the various sizes called for in
-the warps. This splitting and warping process must be done in a long room
-where the warp can be stretched out to its full length, if possible,
-after it is unchained. These warps are usually about 60 yards long. The
-“head” of the sheet, or the part where the cutting knife has not gone
-through, is spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine
-and the tail end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of
-the room.
-
-The requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to be
-beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam.
-The end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel
-for this purpose. A wide reed is used, covering the number of beams
-operated in the machine, which is usually about four, and the threads are
-reeded over spaces opposite the different beams. This reed can be moved
-sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so
-as to keep the warp level. The operator then starts the beaming machine,
-which may be operated either by hand or power, and the warps are wound
-up. At the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the tail
-end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible.
-When the warps are all wound on the several beams, a lease is taken
-in each of them in the ordinary manner, and each separate section is
-securely fastened.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Automatic Friction Let-Off for Rubber Warps]
-
-Should floor space be limited, a horizontal reel is used, which is about
-six feet long and about five feet in diameter. On this the sheet of
-rubber is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and
-divided by a coarse reed, so as to be able to distribute the different
-sections all across the reel. Each section can then be taken off the reel
-as required for the beams. The tension of the threads is governed by a
-weighted leather strap passed over the face of the reel.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III.
-
-_Head Motion Looms and Dobbies for Making Fancy Effects—Tying Up
-Harness—Construction of Loom Webs, Lisle Webs, French Web or Railroad
-Weave and Cable Webs—Making Good Selvages and Preventing Long-Sided
-Effect_
-
-
-So far we have mentioned only plain looms, or those limited to the
-capacity of eight or twelve pick cams. Before we consider any of the
-varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak
-of fancy looms. There are different types, adapted to a wide range of
-fancy effects, but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as
-the chain head, an example of which is shown at Fig. 1. Such looms are
-usually of 18 and 24 harness capacity, and are operated by a figure chain
-of the length required to produce the desired figure. Chains are made up
-of a series of bars, one bar operating with each pick of the loom and
-having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated.
-
-Wherever a roller is placed on the bar, the corresponding harness will be
-raised, and wherever a sinker is used, the corresponding harness will be
-dropped. A series of rollers following each other will hold the harness
-up, and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the
-harness down, thus maintaining at all times an open shed.
-
-
-THE SHEDDING OPERATION
-
-The shedding operation is very simple. In the fancy head there are two
-cylinders, each of which has gear teeth running the entire length. These
-cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions. The teeth of the
-cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed on
-the upper cylinder shown in Fig. 1, but there is a blank space provided
-so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position
-at the right time as the cylinders revolve.
-
-Between the two cylinders are vibrator gears, one for each harness, and
-to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different
-harnesses. These vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain
-rollers or sinkers, so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the
-upper or lower cylinder, and are so timed that they take their position
-at the moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself. A
-vibrator gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the
-harness connected with it, while a vibrator gear engaging the lower
-cylinder drops that particular harness. The harnesses stay in their
-relative positions until the chain calls for another change.
-
-Both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel, so that
-wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to a
-minimum. To further soften the engagement, the speed of the cylinder is
-controlled by elliptical driving gears, which reduce the speed of travel
-just at the moment when the engagement takes place.
-
-The timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled
-that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper
-relationship with the other parts. But in the event of any accident or
-breakage occurring which interferes with the free motion of the head,
-such strain is taken care of by a soft pointed set screw on the head
-driving shaft, which shears off and so prevents further serious damage.
-
-The capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures
-and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to run
-side by side in the same harnesses and this is often done. Of this we may
-write more later.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Fancy Loom for Weaving Narrow Fabrics]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Double Index Dobby]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Overshot Dobby]
-
-
-THE OVERHEAD DOBBY
-
-A popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby
-shown at Fig. 2, which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain
-cam loom or the fancy head loom. It is placed on a well braced, rigid
-frame and built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the
-harness strings. It is driven directly from a two to one shaft, which
-may be either underneath the loom or at the end, and is connected with a
-threaded adjustable rod, which is attached to a slotted lever and can be
-adjusted to govern the depth of the dobby shed.
-
-It is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom, but
-having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and
-work in unison. Such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less
-acute angle at the harness tie-up, and also affords facilities for a
-distinctly different pattern on either half of the loom. It minimizes
-the risk of the harness threads cutting into the compart boards, and
-prolongs relatively the life of the dobby harness. Furthermore it allows
-for a straight tie-up on either machine so that there is no limitation
-to the length or character of the design, as is often the case where two
-patterns are run together on the same machine, or where point tie-ups are
-used, as would very likely be necessary if only one machine was installed
-to cover different designs on both halves of the loom. As we have
-previously stated it is not advisable to limit capacity for the saving of
-a few dollars in the initial cost.
-
-
-OVERSHOT DOBBY
-
-Another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what
-is known as the overshot loom. It is used for the introduction of a
-silk weft figure effect, and is probably the most pronounced form of
-elaboration introduced. It differs from the old rise and fall method in
-the economy of operation. The overshot continues to weave the body of the
-goods right along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure
-in at the same time. Not only is it economical in the respect of greater
-yardage, but the method employed in binding the figure limits the use of
-silk to the actual figure displayed, and does not carry the silk, which
-is the most expensive material in the fabric, to the extreme selvage at
-every pick, as is the case where the rise and fall method is employed.
-
-In the overshot system a specially designed dobby, shown at Fig. 3, is
-used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps. Two
-pairs of knives are employed, one of each pair operating far enough to
-raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main
-shed, while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used
-for figure purposes to a higher level, so that the overshot shuttle may
-pass under them. This occurs every alternate pick of the loom, the body
-shuttle making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only
-one.
-
-In levelling the harness, setting or timing of the loom, and making the
-shed for overshot work, the plans followed are identically the same as
-in ordinary single shuttle work, as the upper shuttle and upper shed are
-distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed. The binder warp,
-being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper
-and lower cloths it is binding together, allows for the figure threads
-to be strained out of their normal position, so that the upper shuttle
-may pass under them. In order to conform to this strained position of the
-binder figure threads, the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward
-at the nose so as to get a good clearance, and thus avoid any binding
-in its passages through the shed. This peculiar downward pitch of the
-shuttle is very important and cannot be over emphasized. It is shown in
-Fig. 4.
-
-The overshot dobby is so constructed that a different set of draw knives
-operate on each alternate pick of the loom, one on the binder lift and
-the other on the rubber lift. This not only allows for a silk figure made
-with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp
-figure also, a combination which can often be made very effective, as
-shown in Fig. 5.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Showing Auxiliary Shed and Pitched Shuttle as Used
-in Overshot Work]
-
-
-IMPORTANCE OF DOBBY HARNESS
-
-Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby
-harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to
-the pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and
-when the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes
-should be looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for
-a couple of days before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby
-machine for a few hours, lifting all the harness and then dropping them,
-so as to settle the strings and take out any kinks or loose places which
-are bound to exist in a highly cabled linen cord of this character.
-
-The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness
-suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be
-used, so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving
-changes in the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in
-the adjustment of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent,
-it is advisable to apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should
-be thoroughly worked into the strings by running the harness for several
-hours, using one and one change cards. This should be followed by a
-dusting of talc or soapstone, which will add much to the smoothness of
-the finish.
-
-To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several
-outside compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute,
-and also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves,
-it is good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different
-rows of strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may
-be threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame.
-
-
-CONSTRUCTION OF SIMPLE WEBS
-
-Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to
-retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler
-forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms.
-The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s
-ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry
-goods and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in
-width. There are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known
-of which are the loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are
-of single cloth construction, in which the filling is the main feature.
-There are generally two cotton warps used in such goods, one of which
-is commonly called the binder and weaves two up and two down, while the
-other is called the gut or filler, and works with the rubber warp, one up
-and one down. The selvages of these webs are made with the filling, which
-passes around a wire at each pick, the wire remaining stationary while
-the web is taken away from it in the process of weaving. An illustration
-of a loom web of this character is shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam
-arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Combination Warp and Shuttle Figure Produced on
-Overshot Dobby.]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10]
-
-It is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both
-rubber and gut, inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they
-both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web. Where such a method is
-employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of
-their proper places, and to fall together in pairs at irregular points,
-which will produce an objectionable “rowey” appearance in the goods. This
-will be noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
-Loom Web]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7A.—Harness Draft and Weave for One-Half Inch Lisle
-Web]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 8A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
-French Web]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 9A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
-Cable Web]
-
-In the harness draft shown, it will be seen that one harness is employed
-for the rubber and one for the gut. It is thus possible to shed the gut
-harness so as to open more than the rubber, having it travel both higher
-and lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom. By
-this movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position, and
-at the same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several
-pockets designed to carry them both. If, from any unusual cause, any of
-the gut threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this
-arrangement of separation to lift the gut harness at any time, insert
-a thread of cotton between the gut and rubber threads, and put them in
-their proper places when commencing to weave again.
-
-The weave employed in the making of webs of this kind, although of a very
-simple character, involves a condition which does not favor a straight
-well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome
-tendencies. The nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder
-harness changes, while on the next pick it remains open and does not
-change, the rubber and gut harness changing only. The result of this
-movement is such that one shed clears for the reception of the filling
-much better than the other, so that at one side of the web the filling
-will hug the edge wire, shown at W in Fig. 6A, while at the other side of
-the web the failure to get a good clearance prevents the filling getting
-so snugly around the wire. Therefore, as the web draws away from the edge
-wire in the process of weaving, the tendency is for one selvage rubber
-cavity to be small, while the other is large, which means that at the
-open side there is a freedom for contraction of the edge rubber which is
-not present at the other side, and a long-sided uneven web is the result.
-
-
-MAKING A GOOD SELVAGE
-
-To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to
-get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as
-possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance
-to separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should
-be set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a
-little longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the
-open side, and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the
-other side. The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that
-the loose fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether
-to counteract the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in
-a fine edge wire on the open side of the web to offset the creeping
-tendency of the selvage rubber thread when contraction takes place after
-the web comes through the press rolls.
-
-The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the
-appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber
-line, and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web
-generally. The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the
-size of the rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing
-the same, but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper
-care is not taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine
-a binder warp as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or
-excess of contraction by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps
-to fill in the rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to
-the rib. All the weight possible should be carried on the binder warp
-up to a point of safety, and care should be taken to get a very easy,
-uniform delivery of the warp from the beam so as to avoid any erratic
-jerky movement of the warp lever.
-
-The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should
-be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any
-irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform
-operation of the warp lever.
-
-The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two-fold
-purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a
-measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used,
-the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the
-shorter the stretch produced.
-
-Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch
-largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and
-great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of
-yarns used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing
-of the stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any
-excess of weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch.
-In fact, any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result in the
-difference between the profit and loss.
-
-In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around
-which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig.
-6A, is highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable.
-Sharpened to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other
-end, it is fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an
-adjustable slip knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate
-the length of wire running in the web. It is then passed through a
-harness heddle eye on the rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space
-next outside the selvage rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire
-on the reed dent makes it necessary to have this dent of hardened steel
-so as to withstand the constant wear of the wire, which is always being
-crowded against the dent by the nipping action of the filling as it draws
-against the wire in the process of weaving, and the repeated beat at the
-same place in the dent at the weaving line. In any event, after a short
-time the dents in the reed will be cut so that it becomes necessary to
-frequently replace them with new ones, and for this reason it should be
-so arranged that they can be easily and quickly removed from and replaced
-in the reeds.
-
-
-THE LISLE WEB
-
-The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to
-the loom web, except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed
-yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs,
-and is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand
-of rubber, instead of two as in the loom web. The harness draft of the
-one-half inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the weave, is
-shown at Fig. 7A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 36 ends 80/2;
-gut, 8 ends 40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch;
-stretch, 75 per cent.
-
-It will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two down,
-but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four picks
-of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness are
-distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get
-uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this
-respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended
-with.
-
-Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is the
-main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and
-therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this.
-The binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be weighted so
-as to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety,
-being careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow
-in the goods or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most
-generally used for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock,
-of about 15 turns per inch. It should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so
-as to obtain all the covering property possible. It should be spun with
-the utmost uniformity, as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be
-noticeable in the goods.
-
-The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the
-greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise
-perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling
-yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of
-the yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil,
-poor circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when
-the color appears to be perfect, poor processing will often prevent the
-smooth running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and
-thus create irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated
-breaking of the selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods.
-
-The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when skein
-yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and
-almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the
-method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly
-so variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by
-quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn.
-Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the
-goods.
-
-Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the result
-of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a variety of
-other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too long in
-the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent wire
-that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the wire.
-Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into the dent,
-so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in
-weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes
-the cause should be found and not guessed at.
-
-
-FRENCH WEB OR RAILROAD WEAVE
-
-Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and which
-is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle, is
-what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In
-almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as
-already described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at
-Fig. 8A. It allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally
-employed in the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which
-gives it a peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of
-railroad weave.
-
-There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it might
-be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to work
-the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton
-warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for
-the goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and
-forward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam.
-This movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable
-feature. To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over
-a small, felt-covered wood tube, which revolves and responds to the
-movement of the bounding web. In this way there is no friction to glaze
-or polish the web and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same
-polish will occur as the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they
-are felt covered.
-
-
-CABLE WEB
-
-The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is known
-as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence of
-the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different
-from the plain web, it is well adapted to this class of goods. Simple
-in appearance, it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture,
-particularly when we remember that it is not unusual to be required to
-make a finished stretch of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft
-and weave are shown at Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder,
-34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24 ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent;
-Picks, 80 per inch; Stretch, 100 per cent.
-
-The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber
-threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which
-may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the
-process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects.
-
-Trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and
-allowing the gut threads to prick through. To prevent this objectionable
-feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn
-for the gut, not necessarily of high grade stock, but a yarn which is
-uniformly spun and not at all hard or wiry. As these goods are being
-woven and on full stretch, the gut threads, of course, are perfectly
-straight and accurate in line, but when contraction takes place, to
-probably one-half the former length, these heavy threads, which form
-probably about 25 per cent. of the weight of the entire web, should bend
-or fold uniformly and dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to
-appear in any way on the face of the web, snugly housed away in the
-several pockets or cavities. If the yarn composing these gut threads is
-spotty or irregularly spun, this uniformity of fold inside the pockets
-will be broken up and the appearance of the face of the goods is likely
-to be marred by unsightly specks of cotton pricking through, which can be
-both seen and felt.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV.
-
-_Elaboration of Honeycomb Effects by Parti-Dyed and Printed
-Fillings—Bandage and Surgical Webs Made with Plain and Covered
-Rubber—Frill Web Woven on Cam Looms—Double Cloths—Importance of Securing
-Balance Between Back and Face of Goods_
-
-
-Among the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of plain
-looms, is what is commonly known as the honeycomb, shown at Fig. 1 and
-Fig. 1A. This is generally made with silk, wood silk, or schappe filling.
-The smooth filling floating over two cords gives the web a smooth feel,
-there being no rib effect noticeable whatever, making it well adapted
-for a fine trade. The warp lines are almost entirely hidden by the
-filling, so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe
-fancy effects, which can be done both in the plain web and the cable. The
-honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as
-can be obtained from the filling.
-
-Fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more
-colors. Such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects
-at regular distances in different colors, such distances being governed
-by the length of the dips and the width of the goods. The effects which
-can be produced are quite varied. The simplest way of accomplishing this
-is to use the regular 54-inch skein, having white or some light shade as
-a base, and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color. This
-process is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack
-at the required distance above the color liquor, and then lowering them
-into the vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner.
-
-Where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are
-desired, long reeled skeins are used, sometimes 108 or 216 inches, which
-have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels. Such skeins
-are not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already
-described. Sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper
-and tied tightly, so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion,
-and then the whole is put in the liquor, when the exposed part only will
-be dyed.
-
-Then again sometimes wood clamps are used, like that shown at Fig.
-2, having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being
-carefully folded. The two halves are clamped together tightly in such a
-manner that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while
-the part left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the
-dye liquor.
-
-
-PRINTED FILLING
-
-Another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein yarn
-used for the filling. This is done by using a machine having a pair of
-fluted brass printing rolls, one of which is made to open on a hinge like
-a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it. This roller is then
-closed to its original position, so that with the two rollers parallel
-and close together, and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them,
-the turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein. The skein is then
-taken out and dryed before spooling. Different sets of rolls are used so
-as to get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing.
-
-Where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs of
-the honeycomb type, it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain
-cords in the center of the web, or possibly on either side, so as to
-break up the flatness of the weave. This opens up the opportunity of
-using lines of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will
-produce a plaid-like effect.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Honeycomb]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Honeycomb.]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Clamp Used for Dying Parti-Colored Skeins]
-
-
-BANDAGE WEBS
-
-There is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs, Fig. 3, in
-widths ranging from 2 to 4 inches. These webs are used for binding the
-limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns.
-They require to be made with a long soft easy stretch. An open reed of
-about 12 dents per inch is employed. Four threads are generally used
-for the binder, weaving two up and two down. The goods are similar in
-construction to a regular lisle web, except that the gut is omitted in
-order to get the easiest possible movement.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Bandage Webs; Fabric at Left Made with Plain
-Rubber; Web at Right Made With Covered Rubber]
-
-The yarn is generally the same quality and size for both warp and
-filling, and is usually a soft spun 2-20s. The side of rubber is
-generally about 38 or 40, with 40 picks per inch and a finished stretch
-of 100 per cent. The use such webs are put to, necessitating as we have
-already said a soft and sluggish stretch, prevents the use of a heavy
-rubber thread, the result being that when the bandage is kept in close
-contact with the warm body, the life of the fine rubber is of short
-duration.
-
-This condition, and the open weave necessary to get the easy stretch,
-have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber
-which have been covered with cotton threads before weaving. This process
-not only prolongs the life of the web, but allows for even more open
-weaving, the use of different weaves than would be possible where the
-uncovered rubber thread is used, and the production of a fabric more
-suitable for the purpose.
-
-In order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable
-characteristic of a bandage web, and yet have the necessary width, it
-is not unusual to introduce a seersucker effect, as shown in Fig. 4, in
-sections of the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the whole.
-In an ordinary cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually
-produced by the use of a separate warp of heavier yarn than the rest of
-the fabric, which warp must be weighted differently and often a different
-weave is employed to emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker
-effect.
-
-In the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary. Wherever
-the seersucker stripe is desired, strands of rubber are left out which
-of course takes away from these portions that element which contracts
-the other part of the web, and a seersucker effect is the result. Such
-stripes are often used for the ornamentation of some webs by having
-narrow sections introduced for border effects, or running down the
-center, and in fact they may be employed in a variety of ways, inasmuch
-as they lend themselves effectively to different forms of coloring, in
-relief to the main fabric.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Seersucker Effect]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Frill Web Made on Cam Loom]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Plain Web]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Fig. 6, Simplest Form
-of Double Cloth]
-
-In passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use
-covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making
-the warps, as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary
-thread. The spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp.
-Arrangements have been made so that to each spool is attached a special
-head, which can be weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached
-to a cord running in a groove on the auxiliary head. By this arrangement
-uniform delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to
-avoid any puckering caused by irregular warping.
-
-
-FRILL WEB ON CAM LOOM
-
-In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects
-is necessarily limited. The bulk of such webs, particularly those made
-with a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter
-web, however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may
-be made within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill
-feature is more generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy
-effects.
-
-The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired
-width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable
-width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven
-under tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the
-press rolls. The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract,
-but frill up uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds.
-No wire is required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension
-of the filling is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill
-warp and make a neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of
-the reed space occupied by the warp.
-
-The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder threads
-which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made in the
-regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity. The
-frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is
-so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for
-the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only
-be bound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it
-is bound at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so
-that it readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body
-part, and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds.
-
-Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses
-are used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven
-in at each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed,
-however, it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill
-warp, or a fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the
-frill. If such precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and
-stiff and will not fold uniformly as the center contracts. It may even
-retard the desired contraction of the body.
-
-It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed
-having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of
-getting a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents.
-The plan more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the
-frill part of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the
-body, generally in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may
-be evenly distributed in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse
-lines of the dents.
-
-Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only.
-In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having
-no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods
-to produce the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited
-contraction of the body part.
-
-
-DOUBLE CLOTH WEBS
-
-Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs of
-a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only
-one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We will
-now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where two
-distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each
-working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp
-known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such
-a manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp.
-
-By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be produced
-with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the single
-cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and back of
-the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and stock
-of different qualities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may
-be used to embellish the face, while the back may be perfectly plain and
-free from any coloring whatever.
-
-There are certain features associated with the construction of double
-cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different
-weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the
-warps into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp
-is required for both back and face and also one for the binder, which
-delivers a much greater length of warp than either, necessitated by
-the character of the weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths
-together. A separate warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the
-web perfectly straight and is shorter in length than any of the other
-sections. Such goods also require a special warp for the selvage, so that
-in the simplest form of such webs a bank of five warps is necessary. On
-fancy goods the introduction of fancy warps may add to this number.
-
-
-BALANCE BETWEEN BACK AND FACE
-
-The element of a right balance between the back and face has to be
-considered, and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the
-stock the result may be that one side of the goods will assert control
-over the other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and even.
-When such a web is cut it will curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable.
-Such a condition may arise from a variety of causes. If the weaves of
-the face and back cloths are identical then it will be necessary to have
-the face and back warps of the same size yarn or its equivalent. For
-instance, should the face be a four-thread plain and 40/2 is used, and
-the back only two threads, then the yarn used for the back warp must
-be 20/2 so as to equal the four threads of 40/2 in the face. Should,
-however, the face be a more open weave than the back, then an equal
-weight of yarn in both cloths will not be right, and it will be necessary
-to use yarn of a heavier weight for the face to compensate for the
-freedom of the more open weave and effect a proper balance with the more
-tightly woven back. There can be no fixed rule to apply to this, and only
-experience will indicate the proper relationship between the two. In
-Figs. 6 and 6A are shown the simplest form of double cloth, known as a
-plain web.
-
-By carefully following the weave it will be seen that while the face
-weaves 3 up and 1 down, and the back 1 up and 3 down, the filling will
-appear both on the face and back of the goods as 1 up and 1 down. If
-the binder was not there it would be a tubular web, having the same
-appearance all around. The binder, however, intersects the upper and
-lower cloths at each pick and binds the two together in one complete
-whole, while the rubber lies between the two, each strand being separated
-by the interlocking binder threads.
-
-It becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and lower
-cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp, which as will be
-seen in Fig. 6A is drawn in on all four face and back harnesses, and the
-threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around.
-To do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side,
-otherwise the weave at this point would show two threads operating
-together next to each other, and would break up the continuity of the
-weave.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Method of Banking a Set of Warps for Double Cloth
-Webs]
-
-The selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of the
-web. It forms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber
-threads, and it must be so arranged that these threads can function
-properly so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat. In the first
-place the yarn must be of such a size that with the proper number of
-threads employed the selvage will contract uniformly with the body of
-the goods, so that the web will not “frill” on account of a too heavy
-selvage, or “belly” because it is too light.
-
-
-CARE FOR SELVAGE
-
-The threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make a
-good clearance for the filling, which otherwise would “nib” up and make
-an unsightly selvage. Then again, a careful adjustment of the weight
-carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the
-requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle,
-otherwise the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off
-when strained out of proper alignment with the front reed. It will be
-observed in the draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage,
-which is necessary in order to control the additional yarn used in the
-construction of the selvage.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V.
-
-_Three Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain
-Back—Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four Leaf
-Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures—Interchanging Figure and
-Face_
-
-
-Turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we will take
-up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin face, woven
-in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web not only used
-for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset garter attachments
-also. A web of this character when properly constructed has a smooth
-velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed across the width
-without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps, which are
-completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of the face
-threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these floating face
-threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing a smooth
-handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs are
-generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back, and
-have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a plain
-web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and gives the
-fabric a much finer appearance.
-
-
-HARNESS AND CHAIN DRAFT
-
-Fig. 1 shows the harness and chain draft of such a web, together with the
-construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of 1⅛ inches
-wide. It will be noticed that the face, consisting of 150 threads, is
-split up into two warps of 75 threads each. This arrangement is necessary
-in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in the
-shed. The warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put on six
-harness frames, although the weave could be produced on three. It would
-not be practicable to crowd 50 threads on one harness frame in the narrow
-space available, as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too much
-when changing.
-
-In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the
-threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other
-face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement
-in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism,
-and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper
-divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps
-have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and
-also on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves.
-
-The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent undue
-friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be worked
-under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this must
-carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation to
-the harness shed.
-
-In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded in
-the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent
-a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional
-floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl
-up when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may
-be prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast
-beam rod, so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly
-tighter than that which is in the upper harness.
-
-The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to
-produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed,
-and thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The
-filling yarn should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good
-uniform quality, in order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the
-rubber. The reed dent inside the selvage rubber should be carefully
-twisted at an angle to conform to the nipped in position to the rubber
-thread, so that the outside edge of the dent will not cut the rubber when
-the reed beats against the goods at the weaving line.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in
-Conjunction With a Plain Back]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Showing Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Shed]
-
-
-USE OF COARSER YARN
-
-A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face yarn by
-using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat. This is shown in the
-harness draft at Fig. 3.
-
-In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin
-weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so
-in elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would
-produce a ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face
-is about the limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few
-exceptions, and even this only in connection with fine picking.
-
-
-USE OF FOUR LEAF TWILL
-
-A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a heavy
-body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.” These
-are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their
-weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7
-down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back, while
-giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile
-produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by
-the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back
-warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth more
-firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat]
-
-Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention is
-that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this has
-a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs
-in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of
-combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of
-the sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper
-balance of the different weaves employed in the face and back. Otherwise
-the goods would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for
-manufacture. Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding
-the size upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say
-more later.
-
-
-FILLING FANCY EFFECTS
-
-All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on cam
-looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what are
-generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these
-under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are
-called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called
-stitch patterns.
-
-The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over
-sections of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in
-contrast to the warp. They are confined to no particular character of
-design, and may range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy
-harness loom or dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The
-ground or body may be either plain or twill, or any other acceptable
-weave suitable as a base for figuring, while the filling may be of a
-contrasting color, either of silk or cotton as desired. The figure or
-design may be made from the same shuttle used for the ground or it may
-be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used as an overshot or rise and
-fall, according to the character of web desired.
-
-Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as
-a sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at
-intervals so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these
-points. No additional figure warps are required for this class of goods,
-and elaborate designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for
-cross coloring that there is in the warp figure method.
-
-
-STITCH FANCY PATTERNS
-
-When the design is made from the warp, the figure threads are made to
-float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after
-weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face,
-and make what is termed a stitch figure.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Point Draw Stitch Figure]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 4]
-
-It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is
-practically unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern
-the construction and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a
-proper balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is
-necessary to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and
-back of the goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In
-the double cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of
-the goods, is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths,
-going in the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at
-these times as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the
-contraction of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the
-construction. Here again we must note the effect of the contraction in
-piling up the floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the
-floats in making the design so as to avoid any ragged appearance.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Interchanging Figure and Face]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 5]
-
-Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain draft
-at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for the
-main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the figure
-is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running
-between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as a
-gut.
-
-In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put gut
-threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must
-be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21
-center cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the
-edges and make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure
-between the upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the
-design, affords opportunity for introducing additional warp threads
-of different colors, so as to be able to bring up either one color or
-another as desired in a design.
-
-As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it
-will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat
-limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs
-from such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of
-methods by which a big range of designs is possible.
-
-
-INTERCHANGING FIGURE AND FACE
-
-Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” fancy in
-which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in
-the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The harness
-and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design a
-given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure
-threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure
-threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to
-each other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the
-interchanging face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves
-only three picks up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on
-the face cloth, and this produces a perfectly flat web.
-
-Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the “picot”
-edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven
-in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to
-float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out
-in small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI.
-
-_Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head Motion
-and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One Bank of Shuttles—The
-Overshot Method—Use of Different Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long
-Floats_
-
-
-A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1.
-The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave, but the
-yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next to the
-plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. It will
-be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with
-the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up the
-contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord,
-the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they pearl
-up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other turns
-to the left, making an effective border.
-
-
-SUNKEN EFFECTS
-
-An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. Both
-of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both
-cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most
-effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may
-be worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy
-head loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on
-either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the
-plaid effect aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face
-warp is striped in color. The character of the figure is such that the
-major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block, making it
-practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom.
-
-In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design
-independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. But
-inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the
-face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from
-the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or
-fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that a truer
-and clearer shed can be obtained.
-
-Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from
-two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so
-as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. A
-208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods,
-allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements
-of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. Such
-arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the binder
-and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to use
-different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the
-design in relief effects to the main figure as required.
-
-
-CALCULATION FOR FIGURE DISTRIBUTION
-
-In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the
-figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web.
-As already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at
-these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is
-acting as filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should
-heavy blocks be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly
-manner. The filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it
-will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face
-stock from pricking through.
-
-In designing webs of this character, calculations have to be made from
-the web after it is woven and finished, otherwise the design may be
-out of the desired proportion. A web may have 60 picks per inch on the
-breast plate while weaving, but when contraction has taken place after
-going through the press, it may have shrunk as much as 50 per cent.
-The steaming and finishing process may further contract it another 10
-per cent. which might make the picks about 100 per inch. Of these only
-one-half appear on the face and the other half on the back. Therefore 50
-picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made,
-and paper scaled according must be used.
-
-
-CROSS SHOT WEAVING
-
-We have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle looms.
-Turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of shuttles we
-would first make note of what is known as the cross shot. This is a form
-of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the further
-element of economy, inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp can be
-worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method.
-
-In the construction of single shuttle webs, the rubber harness rises
-and falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed. This movement
-creates a friction on the rubber thread at the harness eye and an added
-friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent.
-Friction is still further increased by the backward and forward movement
-of the lay, which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot.
-
-In the cross shot method, the rubber remains stationary, with no upward
-and downward motion, which enables the rubber thread to be stretched out
-to its extreme limit while weaving, with little danger of chafing or
-breaking. Over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct sheds,
-one making the upper and the other the lower cloth. These two fabrics are
-stitched together by the binder warp, which travels up and down through
-both of these sheds.
-
-In order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding, it
-is necessary to run these under separate back rolls, fixed at different
-heights, properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness
-and breast beams.
-
-
-POSITION OF ROLLS
-
-Fig. 4 will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the
-breast beam. It will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles
-used for this type of weaving, both pointing to one common center, made
-necessary by the character of the two sheds. The bow of the upper shuttle
-must be tipped downwards, and the lower bank must be tipped upwards, so
-as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are
-passing through the sheds.
-
-The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in the
-harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled
-around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the
-lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper
-shuttle, and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the
-outside rubber until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower
-fillings are connected by what are known as tie threads. These threads
-are drawn in the harness at each side of the body warp, next to the
-edge, and are part of the binder warp. They are operated from the binder
-harness, but are only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as
-the center of the web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do
-the balance of the binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use
-of long looped harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads
-through the one shed.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Effective Combination of Weaves In a Fine Web]
-
-[Illustration: Figs. 2 and 3.—Sunken Effects]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Position of Rolls in Relation to Breast Beam for
-Cross Shot Weaving]
-
-The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a
-longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam jacks,
-or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be regulated
-both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling may be
-corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either.
-
-
-USE OF DIFFERENT STOCKS AND COLORS
-
-The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different
-grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face
-warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back.
-Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing
-the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not
-practicable in single shuttle work.
-
-All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this
-the most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a
-considerable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house
-slippers, this is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the
-production of a face having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the
-shoe leather, while the back may be perfectly plain and white.
-
-It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where fancy
-figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for the back,
-binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these warps,
-being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the labor on
-the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel of the
-lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection with
-single shuttle.
-
-
-THE OVERSHOT METHOD
-
-The overshot method, which we have previously referred to, is another
-form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing
-from the cross shot but equally important. This kind of weaving is
-designed as a substitute for silk jacquard webs, which it has to a great
-extent supplemented. Before its introduction it was customary to use a
-slow running “rise and fall” lay movement, when making a silk figure with
-the shuttle, putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks,
-so that the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible
-in overshot weaving. In the old method the silk used to pass from edge
-to edge of the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle, and where the
-figure did not appear it was buried between the upper and the lower
-cloths.
-
-In the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or
-border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of
-sight. In the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time, while the
-figure or silk shuttle only runs with every alternate pick. The main
-body of the goods is woven in every respect the same as in a single
-shuttle web, and it may embrace all the weaves, such as plains, twills
-or fancies, which are common to single shuttle weaving. Arrangements are
-made, however, for the production of an auxiliary shed, by a movement
-which pulls certain threads above the main shed, and while these are
-open to pass the extra shuttle under them, and thus bind in the figure
-filling. The lower part of the lay has straight shuttles, while the
-upper bank of shuttles is tipped down to conform to the formation of the
-auxiliary shed they are designed to pass through.
-
-The binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated,
-are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily
-stand the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary
-shed. The Crompton & Knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this
-purpose. This special machine is provided with two horizontal draw
-knives, operating any or all of the 30 hooks, and is so arranged that
-the connected warp threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the
-height of the main shed, or to the additional height of the auxiliary
-shed.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Simple Overshot Design]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5]
-
-In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23
-hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the
-binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed,
-or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will
-be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not
-operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged
-that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the
-silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at
-the border of the figure.
-
-
-MAKING OVERSHOT DESIGNS
-
-In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk float
-too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should the
-design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary
-to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to
-break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp
-figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the
-dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as
-to work on the pick when the binder harness is down.
-
-[Illustration: Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design]
-
-Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as the
-“matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the
-web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different
-points, the bindings forming the figure.
-
-Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the
-gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy
-pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting
-cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in
-order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this,
-each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are
-operated from the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the
-face thread in the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise
-them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass
-under them.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII.
-
-_Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel
-Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic Fabrics
-Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production of Pearl
-Edge—Special Fancy Drafts_
-
-
-Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not
-possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made mention of the
-frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed by the fluting of
-non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part. This
-same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. To accomplish
-this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to
-operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on which
-the frill sections are drawn in.
-
-The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through
-one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The
-shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The
-operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in which
-the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods
-for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center]
-
-The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of
-the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will
-be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side
-of the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill.
-The insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber
-strands used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable
-to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to
-compensate for this. The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at
-Fig. 2A.
-
-
-WOVEN SHIRRED EFFECT
-
-Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be
-seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to
-imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of
-plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing
-machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic
-material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side.
-When the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic
-part forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time
-the remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side
-of the elastic part.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 2]
-
-The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by an
-interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth
-and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There being
-no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths together,
-the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so formed. Upon
-the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths are thrown
-out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections in which
-there is no rubber will complete the frill effect. This woven method has
-in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike, whereas in
-the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable and
-unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of labor in
-assembling the different parts.
-
-
-NOVEL DECORATION AT EDGES
-
-A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy frill
-at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in method.
-This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks of
-shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads of
-cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the harness
-the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a delicately
-adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated on a special
-harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all the other
-warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far away from
-the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop required.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Woven Shirred Effect]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Novel Edge Decoration]
-
-The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of picks,
-and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in thread comes
-in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it. As the
-shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the
-easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with
-other warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the
-further progress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the
-same time is carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the
-one in which the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects
-may be produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors
-may be used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and
-selvages of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the
-goods may be made.
-
-
-LAPPET WEAVING
-
-Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been
-extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design
-obtainable by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity
-for considerable elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment
-which permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar
-to embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used
-it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a
-plain loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain
-composed of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern
-desired.
-
-On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the lay,
-which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can
-also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides
-have generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at
-equal distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. When
-slides are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over
-the yarn which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth.
-Then by moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and
-each time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns
-are produced.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Lappet Weaving]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Broken Effect on Silk Frill]
-
-The figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns, as shown at Fig.
-5, and well adapted to narrow goods. Dots of different sizes and in
-different positions may also be made, but it is not practical to get the
-finely finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where
-there is positive control of any particular warp threads or group of
-threads, as for instance in jacquards and overshots.
-
-The sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its movements
-so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the same
-points at each repeat of the pattern, although the general design will be
-maintained. The threads which feed the needles should be of good clear
-ply material, free from slubs and irregularities, so that they will pass
-freely through the needle eyes, and they should have enough turns to
-enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and
-forward sliding movements of the lay passages. The yarn must be delivered
-from independent spools, which work with perfect freedom, and measures
-should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs.
-
-The material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from grooved
-spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the needles at
-every forward movement of the lay.
-
-
-PEARL EDGE
-
-An effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is found
-in what is known as the pearl edge. This adds much to the richness of the
-goods, besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight increase
-of cost. The pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge wires,
-which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the
-frill itself. Each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it
-into the weaving lines as desired, so that the filling may pass around
-it and make pearl loops at these particular places. It will be found
-necessary to use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in,
-otherwise the dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires.
-
-A silk frill may also be much enriched by special fancy drafts. These
-allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes
-over and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks
-contrasting with the more plainly woven parts. An example of this is
-shown at Fig. 6.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII.
-
-_Designs Produced by Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head
-Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical Belts and
-Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed Designs—Method of Printing_
-
-
-In previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production of
-elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are more or
-less limited in capacity, and the stock must be operated in groups of
-threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns
-best adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is
-controllable, and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the
-space available on the face of the fabric.
-
-Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the
-production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of
-jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is
-necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in
-the fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on
-account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point,
-which prevents uniform contraction.
-
-
-DESIGNS IN SUNKEN EFFECTS
-
-Fig. 1 is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well
-distributed. This pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure
-threads brought up alternately. Both warps are buried to allow the back
-filling to appear in relief. This indicates the wide scope of design
-possible on a single shuttle, which is almost unlimited.
-
-Fig. 2 illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp effect
-in connection with a silk figure. It also serves to illustrate the effect
-of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes. Fig. 3 shows still another
-type of double shuttle design, in which a parti-colored face warp lends
-an entirely different effect to a design. Fig. 4 is an example of three
-shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground, and two shuttles
-for the silk figure.
-
-It would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design
-possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary.
-If a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited.
-The custom generally adopted is to operate the back, rubber and gut
-from chain or cam harness, as the same movement of all these threads is
-maintained continuously, and to operate the face and binder from the
-jacquard. Fig. 5 is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender
-loom, having two machines mounted on it, and with the back and rubber
-harness operated by the fancy head.
-
-
-JACQUARD TIE-UP
-
-Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the
-greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings.
-As already stated in a previous article, any failure in the initial
-arrangements will result in constant trouble and faulty work. Mispicks
-and floats may not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics,
-but in elastic webs a float will so pearl up on construction that the
-goods will be ruined. Once again, and of the greatest importance,
-measures should surely be taken to have some form of screw adjustment
-for the raising and lowering of the jacquard machines to compensate for
-expansion and contraction of the strings, caused by changing atmospheric
-conditions.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Formation of Abdominal Belt]
-
-
-WEAVING BUTTONHOLES
-
-In the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics, particularly
-suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished
-products. Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary
-buttonhole sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in
-the controlling of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a
-very unsightly buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found
-advisable to weave the buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the
-“Guyot” suspender, where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for
-the back ends, and non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used
-for the front straps.
-
-The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired place,
-and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven. This
-is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, both of which are
-running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one
-of which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of
-the goods is being woven, the other bank running “dead” underneath the
-goods during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two
-distinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged,
-the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other
-half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again
-formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of
-weaving the plain part of the strap.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5—Jacquard Suspender Loom With Two Machines and Fancy
-Head]
-
-This process of changing from the single to the double shed is
-accomplished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two
-sections, to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one
-side of the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap
-both sections of the cam jack operate in unison, running side by side
-from the same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for
-spreading apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds
-are then formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position
-of the lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and
-properly engage the two sheds.
-
-Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the
-position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not
-engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the
-goods, and require trimming off between the buttonholes. This trimming
-may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same
-in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this
-particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the lower
-shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the goods at
-every pick of the loom and does not need trimming.
-
-The elastic back end, having a buttonhole in it, is also made on a
-special loom, which has a “rise and fall” movement of the lay. It has
-a chain fancy head with what is known as a Gem multiplier on it for
-regulating the length of the plain part, so that one repeat of the plain
-weave can be multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on
-as desired.
-
-In making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes, particularly
-when required to be attached to garments, it is often found that the
-joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness. A web
-is made on the special loom just described of such character that it
-does away with this objection. A section of plain web may be woven of
-any desired length, and then another section made in which the upper
-and lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance. After being
-taken from the loom this double section is cut in the middle, so that the
-non-elastic part may be used for attaching to the garment. When thus made
-the rubber and binder lie “dead” between the two cloths, and are trimmed
-off after the non-elastic part is cut in two.
-
-
-MAKING ABDOMINAL BELTS
-
-There is a growing demand for webs of various characters for surgical and
-orthopedic purposes. One of these which calls for special attention is
-a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts. The width varies from
-about four inches, where it is used to support the back, to about six
-inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen.
-
-Such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain webs,
-except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top to
-bottom, from fine to coarse. This reed is arranged in a reed pocket
-attached to the lay bed, and is designed to slide up and down behind it.
-Underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism, which is so operated
-that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time, and
-then gradually work up and down in a given period. This allows a web to
-be produced with a formation similar to that shown at Fig. 6.
-
-The rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part,
-and gradually spread while operating at the wide part, returning to their
-original position for the other narrow end. If properly constructed the
-goods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends, and the opening up of
-the cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give
-more freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section, which
-will cause the goods to “belly” at this point. This rounding formation
-especially adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended.
-Various modifications of the taper web may be made in this manner, but
-the same general plan is applicable to all.
-
-
-PRINTING DESIGNS ON ELASTIC WEB
-
-The printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment which
-opens up large possibilities for variety of effect, and adds much to the
-selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost. Moreover it gives
-an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns which
-may not have proved good sellers, but when printed will often become
-the most popular patterns offered. A woven striped effect with a few
-crossbars printed on, transforming it into a plaid, changes its character
-entirely. Or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable
-may make big changes in its selling qualities.
-
-But apart from this the field of original design is practically
-unlimited. The work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks
-of various colors, making proper arrangements for the drying so that the
-colors are absolutely fast. Colors should not be used which are more or
-less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing.
-
-The goods, when printed, are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand
-a reasonable time for proper absorption of the ink. They are then run
-slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors, a number of strips
-being put through the drying chamber at one time. The pattern rolls are
-best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern, and the ink
-uniformly distributed on the raised part. Care should be used to have
-the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not
-appear will not come in contact with the ink roll.
-
-This method has proved better than using engraved rolls, besides being
-less expensive. After the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate
-of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing
-roll, great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected,
-particularly where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in
-the design.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Diagram of Machine for Printing Elastic Fabrics]
-
-Fig. 7 is a sketch of a printing machine. The design roll A is five
-inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple
-wood, glued and screwed firmly together, with the grain well crossed
-to prevent shrinkage and warping. The design plate is carefully fitted
-around and pinned securely to this roll. The rubber covered rolls B
-and C carry the ink and are positively driven. The small roll D, while
-revolving by frictional contact with roll C, is also vibrated sidewise by
-a cam-driven lever E, so as to distribute the ink uniformly. The rolls
-are run on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given
-pattern on the goods.
-
-All the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to the
-full length of the frame bed, so that the pressure of the different rolls
-can be accurately adjusted. The machines are easily operated and print
-12,000 to 15,000 yards of web a day.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX.
-
-_Making Warps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect
-of Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web
-Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for Different Styles of
-Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in Goods—Rubber’s Reaction on Copper_
-
-
-The making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double
-cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the
-number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and the
-different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber, it is
-essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between the
-face and the back of the goods.
-
-This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the face
-and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used may
-vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different. All
-this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade.
-These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then
-again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the
-take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various
-weaves.
-
-It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser
-material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these
-together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used
-necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The
-binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also
-requires a special warp.
-
-
-SELVAGE UNDER SPECIAL CONTROL
-
-The general appearance of the finished product being so dependent upon
-the character of the selvage, it is advisable to have these threads under
-special control, so that they may be treated in the best possible manner
-to produce a satisfactory shed, and allow the filling to get a good
-clearance. So as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore
-necessary to have this on a special beam.
-
-It will be seen, therefore, that in an ordinary piece of double cloth
-elastic web there will be required at least five warps: back, face,
-binder, edge and gut. Figures and fancy effects will often necessitate
-auxiliary warps. With very fine webs, having six threads to a cord, it
-is often found necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper
-working conditions. Figs. 1 and 1A show a six-cord web, together with
-warp calculations for the goods.
-
-The employment of so many warps to each strip of web, which are
-automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in
-a previous article, prohibits the use of warps where the threads are
-equally distributed across the beam, as is the practice in wide fabrics,
-the method usually being to tape them on the beams.
-
-
-WARPING MACHINE
-
-The required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in a
-creel, each thread passing under an electrically connected wire, which
-is held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making.
-If the thread should break, the wire would drop and make an electrical
-connection which would automatically stop the machine. Fig. 2 shows
-a view of a warping machine such as is used for this work. They are
-generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams, all of which
-may be run together or started, stopped or run individually, as required.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Six-Cord Web]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]
-
-Each beam is friction driven so that a uniform speed is obtained in the
-delivery of the yarn from the spools. Beams are also so arranged that
-they will stop automatically on reaching a given size. Each warp thread
-is passed through a pair of reeds, fitted with dead stops in the center
-of alternating dent spaces, so that leases may be put in the warps at
-fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms.
-
-In taping the warps on the beams, it is customary in some mills to run
-the threads over a small steel flanged pulley about one and one-half
-inches wide, which will keep each thread in its proper position and make
-the tape absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam. A perfect
-fabric is largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made, but
-it must not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam.
-
-Beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards, but
-should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel, which
-should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges clear,
-and thus reduce the friction to a minimum. The edges of the flanges
-should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the
-contact lever. Much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might be
-avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Warping Machine]
-
-
-QUILLS FOR SHUTTLES
-
-The making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small
-importance, for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very
-much depends. When flanged wood quills are used, the guides should be
-carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the
-entire length of the quill, allowing for perfect freedom at each end
-without dragging. Quills should not be overloaded. In drum pressure
-quilling, the automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be
-filled even with the outer edge of the flanges and no more.
-
-Should there be any tendency to hardness in the material used for
-filling, it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on
-which has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil, but great
-care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so
-hurtful to rubber goods as oil.
-
-The quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform
-delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends. To assist in this
-elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones, so as to shorten the
-angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme
-end. Thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from
-start to finish. The quill flanges should not lie flat against the
-sides of the quill opening, but should be pointed at the ends so as to
-reduce the friction. Quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be
-perfectly straight at all times. When it becomes necessary to run narrow
-goods in wide spaces, recoil springs should be provided to gather up the
-loose filling.
-
-
-CARE REQUIRED IN FINISHING
-
-The finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care,
-and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web
-construction. Calculations must always be made as to what effect heat,
-moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads,
-confined as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high
-tension. As soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate
-upon the covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads, the rubber
-strands begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place.
-To what extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values, and a
-certain degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for.
-
-Webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the looms are
-liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely ruined
-by unsuitable finishing. For instance, take a web with a twill center
-and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the
-loom. The effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract
-the soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border, which
-will cause the web to be long-sided and curl. Such a condition must be
-anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset
-its occurrence. Sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of
-some of the yarns used, or number of threads employed at given points,
-or perhaps added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in
-certain places. It must always be remembered that we are dealing with
-a very much alive element when we are finishing rubber goods, and that
-unexpected results may at any time arise.
-
-
-FINISHING MACHINES
-
-Finishing machines vary both in design and capacity, but the general
-principle is the same in all. A series of drying cans are arranged
-for the application of the sizing mixture. Some machines are laid out
-horizontally and some are upright. In the longitudinal layout the
-machines are more easily accessible in their different parts and under
-better control, while the upright machines are more compact and occupy
-less floor space. Fig. 3 shows a horizontal machine of the latest
-type. It has a drying capacity of eleven cylinders, 24 inches wide, 36
-inches in diameter, allowing for a web contact of about 100 feet. These
-cylinders are arranged in two decks so as to economize in floor space.
-
-The goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular
-brushes, fixed at the feed end of the machine, to clear them from lint
-and dirt before being steamed and dried. They next pass between two pairs
-of nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments.
-The goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in
-a steam chest. They pass into and out of this chest through slots
-underneath the cover. A trough carries the condensed steam away from the
-goods and prevents dripping, otherwise they would be spotted.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Narrow Fabric Finishing Machine]
-
-The steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform
-shrinkage of the goods. The steaming process softens the cotton, and the
-rubber threads, which are under considerable tension, gradually creep up
-and contract the goods. The steaming also makes the web more absorbent
-and thus prepares it for the size bath, through which it is passed under
-submerged brass rollers. The size is kept at a uniform heat by steam
-heated copper coils. The web then passes through the second pair of nip
-rolls, which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size
-before the web reaches the drying cans.
-
-
-ALLOWANCE FOR CONTRACTION
-
-The first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth, so as to absorb
-any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow it to
-penetrate by further softening. As the goods continue to pass over the
-hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place. This contraction
-is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans.
-Intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose, so that
-the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of
-different kinds of web.
-
-The two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently
-driven, so as to provide for the shrinkage which takes place at the steam
-box and size bath. At the delivery end of the machine the goods pass
-through a set of nip rolls which are belt-driven from cone pulleys, so as
-to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying
-cans. From these last nip rolls, which are fixed quite high, they drop
-into receiving cans or boxes.
-
-Ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time.
-Adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to
-keep the goods running in proper position. The speed of the machine is
-usually governed by a Reeves transmission, and the delivery of the goods
-ranges from 10 to 15 yards per minute, according to the requirements of
-finishing. Three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage,
-but this again is determined by the goods. Neglect at any point in this
-process may so interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and
-costs are materially changed.
-
-New patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the
-goods come from the loom, as short lengths made in sample looms are not
-at all times reliable. Frequent tests are also advisable to see that
-original conditions are maintained, as changes made by heat, steam and
-speed are always liable to occur.
-
-The immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs. Double
-cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back only.
-Exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset trade,
-which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this bathing
-process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are to be
-associated with. Where the goods are sized on the back only the effect of
-this has to be considered when they are constructed, and provision made
-to maintain a proper balance under such conditions.
-
-In frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized, so as not to interfere
-in any way with the soft flutings of the frill. This is done by guiding
-each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath. The
-size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over
-them.
-
-
-ACID IN GOODS
-
-The requirements of the trade are so varied, and the types of web so
-numerous, that no formula for size is suitable for general use. Care must
-be taken, however, to avoid any sizes containing acids. Results from the
-use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on,
-when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts, the
-metal is quickly tarnished, and the result may be heavy claims for damage.
-
-It may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of
-vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans
-and the rolls over which the goods must pass. This can be effectively
-prevented by having the cans nickel plated, thus doing away with much
-risk of dirty goods, and of constant scourings and washing of the
-different parts.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Narrow Fabric Singer]
-
-Provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that
-they will hold a liberal supply of size. Replenishment should be made at
-regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform temperature to get
-satisfactory results. It is advisable to make provisions to travel the
-web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the
-size bath, and before it strikes the hot cans, so as to allow for proper
-absorption of the size.
-
-All these details are best worked out by experience. Webs are generally
-fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up, and
-great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs when
-entering the machine.
-
-On lisle webs, a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to
-finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods.
-Fig. 4 shows a gassing machine used for this purpose. It is run at a high
-rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once. When the machine is
-running the flames are close to the web, but upon the stopping of the
-machine the flames are carried away out of contact. In gassing white and
-colors, great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and
-free from any carbonizing effect on the goods.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X.
-
-_Embossing Webs—Type of Construction and Design for Which Process is
-Adapted—Braiding Flat Elastic Fabrics, Plain Cords for Athletics and
-Airplanes, and Fancy Cords—How Sizes Are Indicated—Difference Between
-Woven and Braided Effects_
-
-
-The embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not
-adapted for long stretch webs.
-
-It has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch, suitable for use
-in the manufacture of suspenders. In long stretch webs the patterns
-will not stand out prominently for any length of time. After repeated
-stretchings and wear, they lose much of the desirable sharpness of
-detail, and become flat and indistinct. Twills and loose weaves of a
-similar character should be avoided for embossing. The best results are
-obtained on firm, closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the
-design with clearness and retain it for a greater length of time.
-
-
-DESIGNS SUITABLE FOR EMBOSSING
-
-In planning such work it is well to avoid designs which run for any great
-length with the warp, and to select effects where the general run of the
-design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads, rather than
-with them. This will prolong the life of the figure.
-
-The process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid
-goods. The machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure.
-It should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat
-while in contact with the embossing roll. The webs should pass through
-a steam softening process just ahead of the embossing. This steaming is
-done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box, the web
-passing through slots at either side. It puts the goods in condition to
-receive and retain the impress of the figure.
-
-
-EMBOSSING MACHINE
-
-Figs. 1 and 2 show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics. It
-consists chiefly of a heavy frame A, a case hardened steel roll B on
-which the design has previously been engraved, and a hard paper roll C.
-The engraved steel roll B is heated with steam and may be subjected to
-heavy pressure by turning the hand wheels D.
-
-When putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll, it is necessary
-to run the machine empty for a few hours, gradually applying the pressure
-at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper roll so as
-to get a strong impress on the goods. When moire-antique or water effects
-are desired, the embossing rolls are engraved with straight lines of the
-desired distance apart, and the goods are fed into the machine after
-passing over irregularly formed rollers, which prevent them from going
-through the machine straight. Fig. 3 is an example of this effect, with
-the gros grain in the middle water-marked, and bordered with a fancy
-effect not embossed.
-
-
-BRAIDING ELASTIC FABRICS
-
-The braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with
-weaving. It does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects,
-but a great variety of elastic goods are braided, which serve many
-purposes. Round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber
-thread, such as is used for the protection of eye glasses, to the
-covering of multiple rubber threads for making a cord which may be one
-inch or more in diameter. Some of these cords are used by professional
-athletes in acrobatic work. Large quantities of heavy cord are now used
-for shock absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes, and they are much
-used for corset laces and doll cords.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Embossing Machine]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.—End View]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Embossed Water-Marked Effect on Middle stripe]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.—At Top, Cord Used by Acrobats; At Bottom, Exercise
-Cord In Two Colors]
-
-The braiding machines are small and compact, and are generally operated
-in gangs on benches. One operator can care for many machines, as they
-stop automatically when a thread breaks. Each machine may consist of a
-variable number of spool carriers, according to the character of the
-work they are engaged on. Carriers are made to travel around cam-like
-grooves formed in the bed of the machine, being operated by a chain of
-gears which propel them around a predetermined course. Gears and slots
-are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross each
-other in their passage, so that the various threads of yarn carried are
-plaited around the strands of rubber. The spools used on the carriers are
-specially designed, and have a series of notches on the upper end, into
-which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different covering
-threads, automatically stopping the machine.
-
-The rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving. These beams
-are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or belts, on
-which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep
-the rubber at a high tension. The beams are hung on brackets underneath
-the machines. If cords are being made, the rubber is delivered through a
-central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering
-threads may be plaited around it. As there is no friction on the rubber
-threads delivered in this manner (like the friction in weaving caused
-by the repeated passage of the reed), the rubber can be worked at the
-highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking, and
-economical results in this respect are obtainable.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.—At Bottom. Flat Braid Contracted; At Top, the Same
-Braid Before Contraction]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.—At Bottom, Braided Frill; At Top, the Same Frill
-Before Contraction]
-
-
-FLAT BRAIDS
-
-Where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately
-through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in
-and out between these threads, binding them together side by side so
-that they are flat as in a woven fabric. By this method each of the
-different covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to
-the other, giving them a diagonal direction across the fabric. This
-diagonal crossing and recrossing of the covering threads allows for the
-introduction of different colors, which produce a plaid-like effect.
-
-In making the flat braid, when the individual rubber threads pass through
-the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the machine,
-they all gather to one common center after they are through. This causes
-the rubber threads, when they are at a very high tension, to draw at a
-very acute angle at the edge of the hole, which necessitates running them
-at a lower tension than is desirable for economy. It also introduces a
-liability to break under the strain. In some mills this is cared for
-by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller, thus
-avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole.
-
-
-SIZES OF CORDS
-
-The sizes of cords are determined by the Birmingham wire gauge as follows
-(Diameters in decimal parts of an inch):
-
-    Size 1   .300
-    Size 2   .284
-    Size 3   .259
-    Size 4   .238
-    Size 5   .220
-    Size 6   .203
-    Size 7   .180
-    Size 8   .165
-
-In sizing or measuring the cord, it is passed easily into the gauge, so
-that it hugs the sides without crowding. Any cords made heavier than a
-No. 1 are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths.
-
-It becomes necessary in making heavy round cords, such as are used by
-athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes, to have a very durable
-covering over the strands of rubber. Such a covering is put on by using
-double deck machines, where above the regular machine there is another
-bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided
-fabric coming up from the lower deck. In such cases the inner covering is
-generally a cheap coarse material, while the upper deck of carriers braid
-the outer covering around it, which is of a higher grade material, often
-a highly glazed polished thread.
-
-Machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of
-different character that are required. Provision is made to carry
-the rubber beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine, which
-are of sufficient strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight
-necessary for governing the rubber tension. Above the machine there is a
-gear-driven take-up shaft, on which are tension rolls to govern the feed
-of the goods when braiding. The speed of these rolls can be regulated by
-change gears of various sizes. The goods are then fed on a belt-driven
-spool. On the very heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other
-press rolls to prevent any slipping back when feeding from the braiders.
-
-
-FANCY BRAIDED CORDS
-
-The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied uses,
-makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction. In
-the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much the
-same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the
-travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed
-up singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and
-out between them. A different machine is required for the various widths
-and number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each
-strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid
-requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width
-of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods
-determined upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and
-character of the material used for covering.
-
-On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when
-braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will
-produce variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric,
-inasmuch as the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same
-width is maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding,
-the threads move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the
-place of both warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no
-matter whether it is produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed
-material or take-up, results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise
-position of the threads is brought into a new position which is more of a
-crosswise formation.
-
-This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for very
-effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A
-fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at
-the outer edges.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI.
-
-WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
-
-_Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are
-Obtained—Cloth Construction_
-
-
-Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain
-piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of
-this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed
-for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted
-to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is
-produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in
-collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production.
-
-There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the
-production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is
-devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van
-Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves
-the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer
-part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining
-together of the two parts as formerly.
-
-The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a
-greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band,
-properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar
-in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the
-scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production
-of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are
-different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric.
-
-
-HEAVY LOOM REQUIRED
-
-The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to
-withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the
-filling, where an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual
-piece must be carried. The looms which are now being used have from
-12 to 16 pieces, so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid
-indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces,
-and maintain uniform picking. In order also to get the requisite shed
-opening, the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe, so that
-provision for ample strength at these parts is essential.
-
-
-CONE-SHAPED TAKE-UP ROLL
-
-The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a
-cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope
-of 1 inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight
-roll, which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the
-slack delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of
-the swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight
-roll to set in proper position over the cone.
-
-At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped
-take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1
-[Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here
-from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense]
-the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a
-free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at
-least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over
-which the cloth passes.
-
-
-WOVEN IN THREE WIDTHS
-
-The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and 5¼
-inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so
-as to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed
-over these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side
-of the web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into
-sections and carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect
-clearance in the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly.
-
-
-THE WEAVE
-
-The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face,
-back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face
-and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads
-required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.
-
-                   WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
-
-                       4¼ Inch             4¾ Inch           5¼ Inch
-
-         No. of  Threads     Weight     No. of  Threads   No. of  Threads
-         Warps   (60/2)     Carried     Warps   (60/2)    Warps   (60/2)
-  Face     2       99      8 lbs. each    2      109        2      119
-  Face     2       82      7 lbs. each    2       92        2      104
-  Back     1      198     13 lbs. each    1      218        2      238
-  Back     1      164     12 lbs. each    1      184        2      208
-  Binder   1       99     10 lbs. each    1      109        1      119
-  Binder   1       78      7 lbs. each    1       88        1      100
-  Gut      2       99      8 lbs. each    2      109        2      119
-  Gut      2       78      7 lbs. each    2       88        2      100
-
-It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back
-rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for
-2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which
-will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which
-together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it
-convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads
-straight and confined to the limitations of space available.
-
-[Illustration: Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth]
-
-
-METHOD OF REEDING
-
-The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each
-dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a
-26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next,
-splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier,
-and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by
-the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching
-process.
-
-[Illustration: Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar]
-
-The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar
-is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the
-desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of
-the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to
-meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of
-the collar desired.
-
-There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are
-more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P.
-yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached
-afterwards.
-
-
-
-
-Knitted Narrow Fabrics
-
-By WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A.
-
-_Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn
-Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for Wires and
-Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for Trimmings—Use of Core Thread
-to Give Strength_
-
-
-Knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions and
-adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines. Several
-important concerns in this line have recently been active in producing
-types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow fabrics for
-various purposes.
-
-The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been
-recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge
-how closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there
-is not the necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting.
-The machine generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of
-stocking knitter containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to
-be employed as a sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a
-full stocking machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use
-the ribber or dial which is always supplied.
-
-The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning
-factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is
-satisfactory for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the
-machine by hand, owing to the small lengths required and the frequent
-changes necessary when testing different colors and qualities.
-
-The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the bearded
-needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also owing to
-the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give good
-work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions. It
-is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various
-colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine.
-
-This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and
-thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for
-knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths on
-a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and this
-fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being
-produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different
-diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose.
-
-In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven
-metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be
-used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp
-edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material
-into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest
-efficiency.
-
-Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what
-are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary
-mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually
-made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch
-needle, and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the
-needles a gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation
-of air as well as affording a clean method of handling the meat and
-protecting it in the course of transport on ship, train and truck.
-
-
-PLAIN KNITTED TUBE
-
-Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products of
-the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what
-an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the
-knitting industry. Fig. 1 shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular
-form on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40
-needles in the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are
-40 stitches shown here in flat form.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3 Fig. 4]
-
-It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering
-wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity
-than woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more
-simple and direct manner. It should be pointed out, however, that this
-fabric is susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a
-little further strain will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus
-it is clear that it cannot be used by itself to any great extent in
-cases where great strain or pull will be applied to it. Made in suitable
-materials, there is nothing to hinder this tube from serving as lamp
-wicks.
-
-
-INTRODUCTION OF FANCY STITCH
-
-Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one
-needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known
-as “tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its
-thread for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second
-thread on the next course so that two threads are knocked over together,
-giving rise to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration.
-
-This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch
-which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the
-result that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles
-unless it receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second
-course. All the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with
-the single stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles
-in the circumference, one needle would be inserted with this extra long
-latch to give a tuck stitch right down the tube.
-
-As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made
-to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube.
-According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in
-the middle or at the side.
-
-Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3 and
-4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch is
-made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is
-inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the
-circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second
-vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric
-directly under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of
-making the tuck stitch more pronounced.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5 Fig. 6]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7 Fig. 8]
-
-In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by
-having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the
-tube, and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them
-on the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch
-needles in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect,
-the tube as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as
-to show the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out
-of alignment at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern.
-
-
-USE FOR TRIMMINGS
-
-In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found
-extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or
-cut trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented
-at a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these
-touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the
-work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install
-such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary
-knitting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics.
-
-
-PATTERNS WITH COLORED YARNS
-
-Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this
-principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics
-suitable for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric
-produced on a machine of still narrower dimensions, having only
-12 needles in the circumference of the machine. In this case the
-pattern effect is introduced by having several feeds of thread in the
-circumference; three different colors are employed and introduced in the
-order of one white, one black, and one tan all the way down the fabric,
-thus giving rise to a style of pattern which is very suitable for many
-purposes of the knitting manufacturer, particularly of outer garments.
-There are three yarn feeds round the circumference of this machine and
-every revolution of the machine creates three courses in the three colors
-named.
-
-It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a
-decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as
-would be approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is
-one of the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds
-are used. They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects
-appear at an angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the
-reverse, as it takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces
-attractive effects in twill fashion similar to what can only be created
-in woven goods by the aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting
-of the cloth.
-
-Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging parts
-of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable
-finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature,
-these bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth
-which will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied,
-enabling the garment to retain its shape.
-
-
-KNITTED CORDS
-
-Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle
-knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two
-feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying
-green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The
-material is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is
-employed for threading through certain garments which have a kind of open
-trimming through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the
-drawing together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords
-are provided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further
-ornamental feature.
-
-Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same
-machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green.
-This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be
-produced to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply
-replaced with another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this
-pattern again a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the
-direction of the right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect.
-
-
-USE OF CORE THREAD
-
-In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic
-and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this
-event it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run
-into the machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made
-of some strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above
-the machine. That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the
-center of the circle of needles so that it is completely covered by
-the knitted fabric. Its use considerably strengthens the cord and makes
-it suitable for certain purposes for which it otherwise would not be
-satisfactory.
-
-Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of machine
-where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked with
-two yarn feeds, one black and one white, giving a one and one black
-and white effect in the cord. For this style it is necessary to have a
-core thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the
-knitting proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be
-quite round in effect.
-
-The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle by
-an arrangement such as is supplied with the Union Special sewing machine,
-where the latch needle works by power, enters its loop and takes the new
-thread, which it draws through the old one, thus making an endless chain
-of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the ground
-work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine.
-
-
-THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics, by Samuel Brown</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
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-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Authors: Samuel Brown</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em;'>William Davis</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 21, 2022 [eBook #68583]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
-  <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS ***</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p>
-
-<div class="titlepage">
-
-<p class="center larger">Elastic and Non-Elastic<br />
-Narrow Fabrics</p>
-
-<p class="center"><i>By</i> <span class="smcap">Samuel Brown</span></p>
-
-<p class="center">and a Chapter on Narrow Fabrics<br />
-Made on Knitting Machines</p>
-
-<p class="center"><i>By</i> <span class="smcap">William Davis, M.A.</span></p>
-
-<p class="titlepage smaller">This book originally appeared serially in TEXTILE WORLD<br />
-and has been republished in this form at<br />
-the urgent request of many readers.</p>
-
-<p class="titlepage">BRAGDON, LORD &amp; NAGLE CO.<br />
-<span class="smaller">TEXTILE PUBLISHERS</span><br />
-334 FOURTH AVENUE <span class="spacer">NEW YORK</span></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span></p>
-
-<p class="titlepage smaller">Copyright 1923<br />
-<span class="smcap">Bragdon, Lord &amp; Nagle Co.</span><br />
-New York</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p>
-
-<h1>Elastic and Non-Elastic Narrow Fabrics</h1>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_I"><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Growth of Webbing Business—Attempts to Substitute Cut Products for
-Individually Woven Webs Made on Gang Looms—Loom Setting
-to Reduce Vibration—Capacity of Looms and Explanation
-of the Various Motions That Are Employed</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>When we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect
-it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big
-things, such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber
-tires in constant use. These may crowd from our notice a thousand and one
-smaller things of importance. It is difficult to fully realize how many
-comforts and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among
-them is the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort
-and convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes. It
-is not only in such things as garters and suspenders, with which our minds
-may first associate elastic webs, that these fabrics are used, but they find
-employment in a variety of other products, which are growing more numerous
-all the time. Today there are in operation thousands of looms and
-braiders, in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the operation
-of which, together with complementary machinery, about ten thousand
-people are employed.</p>
-
-<p>It was about the year 1840 when the idea of weaving threads of elastic
-in connection with other materials was first conceived. After long experiments
-this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving. New
-ideas were from time to time introduced, and new uses found for the product,
-until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy weaves,
-and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them who are not
-closely associated with the business.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">American Industry Started About 1860</span></h3>
-
-<p>It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving was
-introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous
-England and Germany, and also France in a small way, had found here
-a market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring,
-which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity. About 1860,
-a few looms which had been used, were brought over from England and
-located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring commenced.
-The rubber thread required was for some time imported from
-England. The business grew rapidly, and factories were established in a
-number of cities, more particularly at Boston, Lowell and Brockton, Mass.,
-Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute took
-place about the year 1890, which developed into a long-drawn out strike,
-ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the goring
-web manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of this product
-from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms which
-were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and are
-now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing, it
-may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought from
-England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work along
-other lines.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Attempts to Use Wide Looms</span></h3>
-
-<p>Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide
-looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps
-at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were woven
-in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to the
-different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed to
-meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch as
-the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth.
-Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were
-arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite
-widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife
-edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new
-positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual
-strips.</p>
-
-<p>While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs
-in gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced
-having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the individually
-woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would give way, so
-that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and ultimately the
-demand for them died out.</p>
-
-<p>Attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in
-another direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth, one to
-form the back, and the other to form the face of the goods, with an elastic
-substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two. These
-different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips of
-the desired widths. This method was not without many advantages. Strips
-of different widths were easily made without the costly method of redrawing
-the warps in the looms. An unlimited choice of both plain and fancy
-fabrics could be used, having if desired distinctly different appearances
-and constructions for face and back, and this alone opened up a wide range
-of possibilities. The finished cloth lent itself admirably to fancy embossing
-and printing and to various other forms of elaboration. But somehow
-the trade did not take to it, and this also finally died out.</p>
-
-<p>The trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of
-all kinds, both plains and fancies, in gang looms, and the business has
-steadily grown ever since along these lines.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Straight Shuttle and Circular Shuttle Looms</span></h3>
-
-<p>The looms employed are very varied, inasmuch as the requirements
-cover a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands.
-The simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs
-such as are mostly used for garters, and which are also used for many
-other simple purposes in nearly every household. These webs are commonly
-known as loom webs, lisles and cables. They are generally made
-on plain, narrow, cam looms, some of which are capable of accommodating
-as many as 56 pieces or strips at one time.</p>
-
-<p>There are two distinct types of loom employed, one of which is known
-as the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom. In the
-former type, the straight shuttle, in traveling across the different spaces,
-takes up more room than the circular shuttle, and thus somewhat curtails
-the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom, limiting capacity
-of production, and relatively increasing the cost. Very few of the straight
-shuttle looms accommodate more than 36 shuttles, according to the width
-of the goods required. The circular shuttles travel over a segment of a
-circle and cross over each other’s tracks in their movement through the
-shed, as shown in Fig. 1. This permits the crowding of the pieces of web
-closer together, so that many more can be accommodated in the same loom
-space than when the straight shuttle is used. This type sometimes runs
-as high as 56 shuttles to the loom.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp91" id="ch1-fig1" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch1-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Circular Shuttle Webbing Loom</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch1-fig2" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch1-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Rack and Pinion Movement for Actuating Shuttles</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Prevent Loom Vibration</span></h3>
-
-<p>These looms often are speeded as high as 180 picks per minute. To
-operate at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory
-goods, free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or
-variable momentum in running, a very heavy type of loom is necessary.
-They should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all possible
-vibration. A solid concrete floor into which timbers have been properly
-set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into them is the
-ideal way, but where this is not practicable at least heavy foundation timbers
-for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged. The frames of
-the looms should be heavy; also the main driving shaft, which should have
-wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the wearing points
-and obviate loose play in the boxes.</p>
-
-<p>The crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough
-of them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lay without
-liability to take on any loose motion, which would be fatal to the production
-of perfect goods. Weight and strength here is very essential, inasmuch
-as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to the lay
-on account of the harness movement, and they must be built to drop below
-the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at the beat
-of the lay. They should also be made adjustable, each arm having a heavy
-left and right threaded insert, so that the length of the weaving line may
-be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs. They
-should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up.</p>
-
-<p>The lay itself must necessarily be very heavy. It is generally constructed
-of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds, so as to avoid
-any possibility of warping and shrinkage. The shuttles used are mostly
-made of applewood. While they must run smooth and be free from the risk
-of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be freely drawn
-across the multiple of web spaces. It will be easily seen that the drawing
-of so many shuttles over a space of about three times their length, at
-possibly 180 picks per minute, carrying and delivering the necessary weft
-to the webs, each thread of weft being checked to a certain extent by
-friction springs, requires great care and thought in construction. Shuttle
-wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will not serve the purpose.</p>
-
-<p>The shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to
-accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling, together with the
-necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions. Each
-shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion of
-a fine recoil spring, which is made fast at one end of the drilled hole at
-the back of the shuttle. To the other end of the spring is attached a small
-porcelain eye, through which is threaded the weft, making it possible to
-govern and take up by the action of the spring the loose filling which is
-thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses through the shed. These side
-recoil springs are not only useful for the taking up of the loose filling
-but allow for a variety of threading up methods, so as to assist in the
-governing of the tension of the weft at one or both sides of the web,
-and thus afford a means of weaving the goods level. They aid in correcting
-any tendency to long and short sided goods, of which we will say more
-later.</p>
-
-<p>At the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span>
-on which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill,
-and can be so regulated as to govern the tension. This spring is so
-tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Rack and Pinion Movement</span></h3>
-
-<p>The shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by
-what is known as the rack and pinion movement. (See Fig. 2). This method
-has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs. The
-rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed, A, the
-entire length of the loom. To the rack is attached leather straps G, or heavily
-woven fabric straps, with which the rack B is pulled to and fro at each pick
-of the loom. The rack is of wood, having rounded teeth-paced approximately
-one-third of an inch apart. Into the rack are meshed pinions C, two to carry
-each shuttle E, the teeth of which are correspondingly spaced. The rack is set
-into a wood carrier which is about one inch deep and one inch wide, and
-the full length of the lay. The pinions are made of either raw hide or
-paper fibre, and these pinions again mesh into a series of racks D, grooved
-in on the under side of each shuttle, and thus drive the shuttle to and fro
-across the web spaces J.</p>
-
-<p>The constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the
-top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom of
-the rack. It therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a false
-bottom of wood of about ¼-inch thick, which after becoming worn by
-constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken
-out and replaced by a new one, thus keeping the rack and pinions and
-shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other.</p>
-
-<p>The rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned
-straps, which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by
-means of wood screws, or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for
-this purpose. These straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams set
-on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom. The
-power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood
-pulleys, moving backwards and forwards, which are so formed as to start
-and stop the shuttles slowly, and to operate them at a higher rate of speed
-during their passage through the middle of the shed. This movement is
-necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the weaving
-shed before the harness is properly settled, and also to soften the hammering
-at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and tear.</p>
-
-<p>It might be well to note here also that this hammering is also softened
-by the placing of a piece of soft rubber H at each end of the rack run,
-so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home. While the
-cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement
-most desirable for the travel of the shuttle, it has its drawback in the
-momentum produced, which it is often found difficult to control.</p>
-
-<p>The Crompton &amp; Knowles Loom Works have designed a shuttle motion
-which effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles
-while they are entering, passing through, and leaving the shed, by a dwelling
-movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating slotted
-rocker. It is absolutely positive in action and does away with the uncontrollable
-and erratic movement so often met with in the cam drive.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Movement of Harnesses</span></h3>
-
-<p>Four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs
-which are used for ordinary purposes. However, it is not the practice to
-confine looms to the limitations of this capacity, but to put in either 8 or
-12-pick cams. These, besides providing means to make the plain weave,
-open up possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of
-weaves, which add materially to the usefulness of the loom.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp60" id="ch1-fig3" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch1-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Direct Cam Movement</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch1-fig4" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch1-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Loom with Side Cam Method of Harness Control</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span></p>
-
-<p>There are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this
-character for the making of ordinary webs. One is known as the direct
-cam drive, where the cams are fitted on a 4 to 1 shaft, as shown in Fig. 3,
-which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is communicated
-to the harnesses through a series of levers A, rocking poles B, levers
-C, and lifting wires to the harness D.</p>
-
-<p>The other movement is known as the end-cam method, where a small
-shaft is set at the end of the loom, running at right angles to the driving
-shaft (See Fig. 4) from which it is driven by bevel gears. On this short
-shaft are set the cams, usually 8 or 12 in number, which have a series of
-grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different
-positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft. These
-cams operate what is known as the cam jacks, which may also be seen in
-Fig. 4.</p>
-
-<p>The jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and forwards
-by the cams, communicating movement to the various harnesses.
-The harnesses are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks.
-This connection at both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms
-at a very high rate of speed, as there are no weights or springs to contend
-with, which limits speed.</p>
-
-<p>While the first described method of direct cams has some advantages
-over the end cams, such looms are not nearly so economical to operate as
-the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable. While the harnesses
-are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by
-weights or springs. The means of shed adjustment, however, enables the
-attaining of a well graded shed. Furthermore, the cams themselves can
-be so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the
-different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be
-obtained. But the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves
-attainable, which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method.</p>
-
-<p>When the direct cam movement is used, and where the goods being
-woven are of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom,
-it is practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide
-flat weights of the requisite size. But where higher speed is required than
-is advisable for weighted harnesses, springs are more desirable.</p>
-
-<p>The simplest form of pulling do the harnesses is by the use of floor
-blocks and direct springs. There is, however, a disadvantage in using the
-direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift of the
-harness is reached, which necessarily increases materially the power expended
-in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain. The better way
-is to use what is known as spring jacks, which have an easier pull than the
-direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull, diminishing from
-the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at the extreme lift on the
-lever, so that the load is uniformly distributed all through the movement
-and less power is employed.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_II"><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Looms Should Be Adapted to Make a Wide Variety of Goods—Take-Up
-and Let-Off Motions—Making the Rubber Warps for Different
-Classes of Web—Importance of Uniform Tension—Defects
-from Uneven Tension and Chafing of Threads</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the harness.
-On account of the great length it becomes necessary that everything
-possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging,
-for the least irregularity which may be developed will of course interfere
-with the evenness of the shed. The harness frames must be made of the
-very best stock obtainable, thoroughly seasoned, and absolutely straight
-grained. Each frame must be supported at regular and frequent intervals
-by stays or supports mortised in the runners. These stays are slotted at top
-and bottom to receive the heddle bars and keep them accurately in line,
-and thus prevent them from catching on the neighboring harness during
-the operation of the shedding process.</p>
-
-<p>It is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately
-spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily on the
-bars, and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a tendency
-to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the shed. Steel
-heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or less and get
-out of alignment. They are made from tempered steel which is very flexible
-and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly catch or chafe
-the warp threads. They adjust themselves automatically to the frame and
-cannot twist or bend while at work, and are made to accommodate themselves
-to every conceivable kind of goods.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Install Looms for Wide Range</span></h3>
-
-<p>In installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make
-ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different fabrics
-which may from time to time be required. In the manufacture of the
-light single cloth garter webs, not more than two warps to the piece are
-required, a face warp and a gut warp, and the temptation to save a little
-in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of creel spaces to
-immediate requirements. Added expense may seem for the time being an
-unnecessary burden. But very soon there may arise a call for other goods
-which cannot be made within the limitations of the two bank creel; therefore
-changes become necessary which are generally much heavier than first
-cost would have been.</p>
-
-<p>Nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed. Many times
-the availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division
-to care for the various weaves and materials employed in some constructions.
-If the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first
-starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers, buttons, etc.,
-which may be procured later. But by all means ample provision should be
-made for the full frame work and supporting rods for same.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Take-Up Motion</span></h3>
-
-<p>Another important consideration is to make proper provision for a
-reliable take-up motion, so that the goods may be taken away from the reed
-while weaving without any liability to variableness. This liability was
-present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the mills<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span>
-today. The old-time fine ratchet gear, even when provided with a number
-of pawls, is always liable to erratic picking, which alone will ruin an
-otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change the cost of manufacturing.
-A slight irregularity of picking may not be discernible in non-elastic
-goods, which will be satisfactory so long as the variableness is not
-easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per inch is maintained. But
-in elastic goods, where the contraction takes place after they leave the
-press rolls, every irregularity is revealed and intensified so there is no
-room to take chances. The only safe way is to employ picking gears
-making one tooth to each pick of the loom, and then to change the gears
-when different picking becomes necessary.</p>
-
-<p>In many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision
-made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when a
-joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while weaving,
-or where a quill may have run off unnoticed. It is almost impossible to
-make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism being provided for
-this purpose. In some of the slow running looms provision is made for
-this by the operation of each set of rolls independently (see Fig. 1), by
-means of the ratchet gear and pawl A and worm motion B. This plan
-has the one disadvantage of taking up too much space between the individual
-pieces. Where the fabric woven is say four or five inches wide, and
-the space will admit, it is all that can be desired, and the individually
-weighted rollers C associated with the motion are admirably adapted to
-variable pressure.</p>
-
-<p>For the very narrow elastic fabrics, which require considerable roller
-pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving, and where it is
-necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred, a better
-movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main take-up shaft
-in the form of a sleeve. It is carried around by the shaft as it turns while
-the goods are being woven, but can be released and turned both backwards
-and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel, which operates a series
-of differential gears. This movement is entirely independent of the movement
-of the main take-up shaft drive.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Tension on Rubber Warp</span></h3>
-
-<p>Too much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the
-tension of the rubber warp. On its uniformity depends not only the
-quality, but also the cost of the web. The greater the weight of slack
-rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer the
-quality. A very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the tension
-of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods.</p>
-
-<p>The rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking
-or chafing of the thread takes place. Each rubber thread should be under
-this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the
-desired contraction will take place uniformly, and a flat piece of web will
-be produced that will have plenty of life.</p>
-
-<p>It must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber
-which constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs, working
-in unison with each other. Each one should have equal power to contract
-the fabric at its own particular part. If any one of these strands
-or springs is chafed and weakened, it lessens the contracting power, and
-the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively
-greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained their
-full power.</p>
-
-<p>Moreover, the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed
-particles of rubber pricking through the face, particularly on the white
-and lighter colored goods. Before such webs can be marketed they must be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span>
-subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles, which is
-accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded, cloth covered roller,
-which will remove the loose particles by friction and high velocity. But
-this operation adds to the cost.</p>
-
-<p>A high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that
-most manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the
-threads, instead of leaving this matter to the weavers. These testers acquire
-such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and satisfactory
-results. Talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to reduce
-the risk of chafing and breaking of the rubber threads. The warps are
-arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush, loaded
-with talc, which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work very
-smoothly. This is especially important in damp weather, which is the
-worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods. At times factories have
-stopped operations when the weather was especially humid.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Let-Off Motion</span></h3>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp37" id="ch2-fig1" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch2-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Individual Take-Up Motion for Wide Space Looms</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp37" id="ch2-fig2" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch2-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Individual Rubber Warp Let-Off Motion</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>When we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads
-possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed to
-their reaching the leaving line, it is not to be wondered at that chafing is
-liable to take place. With all this liability of spoiling goods it becomes<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span>
-readily apparent that any device employed to regulate such an important
-feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very sensitive and
-dependable.</p>
-
-<p>On looms making wide goods, and where space will allow, regulation is
-accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in Fig. 2. The
-iron rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft A, at one end of which
-a gear wheel B is fastened. In this gear is meshed the worm C, which is
-operated by a heavy linen cord D passed twice around a pulley E. The
-cord derives its movement from a rocking shaft F, on which there is fastened
-a screw extension G, by which adjustment can be made so as to
-deliver very accurately any amount from the rubber beam.</p>
-
-<p>With this kind of movement, and in order to feed the thread uniformly
-into the web, it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where
-the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the beams.
-The warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in individual
-warps, which are done up in chain form, each warp containing the requisite
-number of threads.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Making Rubber Warps</span></h3>
-
-<p>The machine used for making the warps, shown at Fig. 3, is mounted
-on an iron frame A, which carries the power driven warp beam B. Behind
-this is an open top expansion reed C, the dents of which are regulated to
-open, coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand
-wheel. This reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering.
-Behind the reed C are fixed two pairs of nip rolls, D and E, and an open
-roller F, which is followed by a belt-driven beater roll G, used to beat the
-threads out straight as they leave the chain.</p>
-
-<p>The rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor, under the beater
-roll. The end is then passed over the beater roll G, over the open roll F,
-through the two pairs of nip rolls D and E, over the expansion reed C, and
-then looped to a leader on the rubber beam, where the knot is put in a
-counter-sink on the beam barrel, so as not to interfere with the lay of the
-warp. The section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls is
-brought down in loop form, shown at H, and the nip rolls are then closed
-while the warp is in this position. The two sets of nip rolls are speeded
-alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping points, so
-that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls, D, are perfectly
-gauged in length and tension when passing through the reed C and on to
-the beam B. The threads of rubber are under considerable tension, inasmuch
-as the beam B is driven faster than the nip rolls D and E.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Friction Let-Off</span></h3>
-
-<p>Where there is limited loom space, and where a small number of
-threads are employed, as in the narrower garter fabrics, it is not as practical
-to have the warps made mechanically, and for this reason they are not
-likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension. In
-such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will
-correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout.
-The device for doing this is shown at Fig. 4.</p>
-
-<p>The warp carrier A is fastened to the back rail, which carries the
-warp, over which is passed the friction cloth G which is hung from a rod
-D. The friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp
-lever E, which is bolted to the bottom rail H, as shown. The rubber
-threads constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness C, and
-then to the breast beam B. The lever E, and the weights F, allow for
-proper adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as
-the warp beam empties.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch2-fig3" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch2-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Rubber Warping Machine</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span>
-suspenders, where the last described method of warp delivery takes place,
-it is customary to work from an entire sheet of rubber, splitting it up
-into the required sections or strips of the various sizes called for in the
-warps. This splitting and warping process must be done in a long room
-where the warp can be stretched out to its full length, if possible, after
-it is unchained. These warps are usually about 60 yards long. The “head”<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span>
-of the sheet, or the part where the cutting knife has not gone through, is
-spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine and the tail
-end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of the room.</p>
-
-<p>The requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to
-be beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam.
-The end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel
-for this purpose. A wide reed is used, covering the number of beams
-operated in the machine, which is usually about four, and the threads are
-reeded over spaces opposite the different beams. This reed can be moved
-sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so
-as to keep the warp level. The operator then starts the beaming machine,
-which may be operated either by hand or power, and the warps are wound
-up. At the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the
-tail end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible.
-When the warps are all wound on the several beams, a lease is taken in
-each of them in the ordinary manner, and each separate section is securely
-fastened.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp75" id="ch2-fig4" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch2-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Automatic Friction Let-Off for Rubber Warps</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Should floor space be limited, a horizontal reel is used, which is about
-six feet long and about five feet in diameter. On this the sheet of rubber
-is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and divided
-by a coarse reed, so as to be able to distribute the different sections all
-across the reel. Each section can then be taken off the reel as required
-for the beams. The tension of the threads is governed by a weighted leather
-strap passed over the face of the reel.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_III"><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Head Motion Looms and Dobbies for Making Fancy Effects—Tying Up
-Harness—Construction of Loom Webs, Lisle Webs, French Web
-or Railroad Weave and Cable Webs—Making Good
-Selvages and Preventing Long-Sided Effect</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>So far we have mentioned only plain looms, or those limited to the
-capacity of eight or twelve pick cams. Before we consider any of the
-varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak of
-fancy looms. There are different types, adapted to a wide range of fancy
-effects, but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as the
-chain head, an example of which is shown at Fig. 1. Such looms are
-usually of 18 and 24 harness capacity, and are operated by a figure chain
-of the length required to produce the desired figure. Chains are made up
-of a series of bars, one bar operating with each pick of the loom and
-having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated.</p>
-
-<p>Wherever a roller is placed on the bar, the corresponding harness will
-be raised, and wherever a sinker is used, the corresponding harness will be
-dropped. A series of rollers following each other will hold the harness up,
-and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the harness
-down, thus maintaining at all times an open shed.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">The Shedding Operation</span></h3>
-
-<p>The shedding operation is very simple. In the fancy head there are
-two cylinders, each of which has gear teeth running the entire length.
-These cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions. The teeth of
-the cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed
-on the upper cylinder shown in Fig. 1, but there is a blank space provided
-so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position at
-the right time as the cylinders revolve.</p>
-
-<p>Between the two cylinders are vibrator gears, one for each harness, and
-to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different
-harnesses. These vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain
-rollers or sinkers, so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the upper
-or lower cylinder, and are so timed that they take their position at the
-moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself. A vibrator
-gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the harness connected
-with it, while a vibrator gear engaging the lower cylinder drops that
-particular harness. The harnesses stay in their relative positions until the
-chain calls for another change.</p>
-
-<p>Both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel, so
-that wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to
-a minimum. To further soften the engagement, the speed of the cylinder
-is controlled by elliptical driving gears, which reduce the speed of travel
-just at the moment when the engagement takes place.</p>
-
-<p>The timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled
-that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper relationship
-with the other parts. But in the event of any accident or breakage occurring
-which interferes with the free motion of the head, such strain is taken care
-of by a soft pointed set screw on the head driving shaft, which shears off
-and so prevents further serious damage.</p>
-
-<p>The capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures
-and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to run side
-by side in the same harnesses and this is often done. Of this we may
-write more later.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp95" id="ch3-fig1" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Fancy Loom for Weaving Narrow Fabrics</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp70" id="ch3-fig2" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Double Index Dobby</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp100" id="ch3-fig3" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Overshot Dobby</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">The Overhead Dobby</span></h3>
-
-<p>A popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby
-shown at Fig. 2, which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain cam
-loom or the fancy head loom. It is placed on a well braced, rigid frame and
-built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the harness strings.
-It is driven directly from a two to one shaft, which may be either underneath
-the loom or at the end, and is connected with a threaded adjustable
-rod, which is attached to a slotted lever and can be adjusted to govern the
-depth of the dobby shed.</p>
-
-<p>It is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom, but
-having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and
-work in unison. Such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less
-acute angle at the harness tie-up, and also affords facilities for a distinctly
-different pattern on either half of the loom. It minimizes the risk of the
-harness threads cutting into the compart boards, and prolongs relatively the
-life of the dobby harness. Furthermore it allows for a straight tie-up on
-either machine so that there is no limitation to the length or character of
-the design, as is often the case where two patterns are run together on the
-same machine, or where point tie-ups are used, as would very likely be
-necessary if only one machine was installed to cover different designs on
-both halves of the loom. As we have previously stated it is not advisable
-to limit capacity for the saving of a few dollars in the initial cost.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Overshot Dobby</span></h3>
-
-<p>Another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what
-is known as the overshot loom. It is used for the introduction of a silk
-weft figure effect, and is probably the most pronounced form of elaboration
-introduced. It differs from the old rise and fall method in the economy of
-operation. The overshot continues to weave the body of the goods right
-along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure in at the same
-time. Not only is it economical in the respect of greater yardage, but the
-method employed in binding the figure limits the use of silk to the actual
-figure displayed, and does not carry the silk, which is the most expensive
-material in the fabric, to the extreme selvage at every pick, as is the case
-where the rise and fall method is employed.</p>
-
-<p>In the overshot system a specially designed dobby, shown at Fig. 3, is
-used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps. Two
-pairs of knives are employed, one of each pair operating far enough to
-raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main shed,
-while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used for
-figure purposes to a higher level, so that the overshot shuttle may pass
-under them. This occurs every alternate pick of the loom, the body shuttle
-making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only one.</p>
-
-<p>In levelling the harness, setting or timing of the loom, and making the
-shed for overshot work, the plans followed are identically the same as in
-ordinary single shuttle work, as the upper shuttle and upper shed are
-distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed. The binder warp,
-being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper and
-lower cloths it is binding together, allows for the figure threads to be
-strained out of their normal position, so that the upper shuttle may pass
-under them. In order to conform to this strained position of the binder
-figure threads, the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward at the
-nose so as to get a good clearance, and thus avoid any binding in its
-passages through the shed. This peculiar downward pitch of the shuttle
-is very important and cannot be over emphasized. It is shown in Fig. 4.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p>
-
-<p>The overshot dobby is so constructed that a different set of draw
-knives operate on each alternate pick of the loom, one on the binder lift
-and the other on the rubber lift. This not only allows for a silk figure
-made with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp
-figure also, a combination which can often be made very effective, as shown
-in Fig. 5.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig4" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Showing Auxiliary Shed and Pitched Shuttle as Used
-in Overshot Work</p>
-</div>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Importance of Dobby Harness</span></h3>
-
-<p>Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby
-harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to the
-pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and when
-the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes should be
-looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for a couple of days
-before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby machine for a few hours,
-lifting all the harness and then dropping them, so as to settle the strings
-and take out any kinks or loose places which are bound to exist in a highly
-cabled linen cord of this character.</p>
-
-<p>The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness
-suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be used,
-so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving changes in
-the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in the adjustment
-of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent, it is advisable to
-apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should be thoroughly worked
-into the strings by running the harness for several hours, using one and
-one change cards. This should be followed by a dusting of talc or soapstone,
-which will add much to the smoothness of the finish.</p>
-
-<p>To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several outside
-compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute, and
-also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves, it is
-good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different rows of
-strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may be
-threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Construction of Simple Webs</span></h3>
-
-<p>Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to
-retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler
-forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms.
-The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s
-ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry goods<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span>
-and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in width. There
-are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known of which are the
-loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are of single cloth construction,
-in which the filling is the main feature. There are generally two
-cotton warps used in such goods, one of which is commonly called the binder
-and weaves two up and two down, while the other is called the gut or filler,
-and works with the rubber warp, one up and one down. The selvages of
-these webs are made with the filling, which passes around a wire at each
-pick, the wire remaining stationary while the web is taken away from it in
-the process of weaving. An illustration of a loom web of this character is
-shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig5" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—Combination Warp and Shuttle Figure Produced on Overshot
-Dobby.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig6-10" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig6-10.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6 <span class="spacer">Fig. 7</span>
-  <span class="spacer">Fig. 8</span> <span class="spacer">Fig. 9</span>
-  <span class="spacer">Fig. 10</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both
-rubber and gut, inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they
-both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web. Where such a method is
-employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of their
-proper places, and to fall together in pairs at irregular points, which will
-produce an objectionable “rowey” appearance in the goods. This will be
-noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig6a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig6a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch Loom Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig7a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig7a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 7A.—Harness Draft and Weave for One-Half Inch Lisle Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig8a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig8a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 8A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch French Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch3-fig9a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch3-fig9a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 9A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch Cable Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span></p>
-
-<p>In the harness draft shown, it will be seen that one harness is employed
-for the rubber and one for the gut. It is thus possible to shed the gut
-harness so as to open more than the rubber, having it travel both higher and
-lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom. By this
-movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position, and at the
-same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several pockets designed
-to carry them both. If, from any unusual cause, any of the gut
-threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this arrangement
-of separation to lift the gut harness at any time, insert a thread of cotton
-between the gut and rubber threads, and put them in their proper places
-when commencing to weave again.</p>
-
-<p>The weave employed in the making of webs of this kind, although of a
-very simple character, involves a condition which does not favor a straight
-well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome tendencies.
-The nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder harness changes,
-while on the next pick it remains open and does not change, the rubber and
-gut harness changing only. The result of this movement is such that one
-shed clears for the reception of the filling much better than the other, so
-that at one side of the web the filling will hug the edge wire, shown at
-W in Fig. 6A, while at the other side of the web the failure to get a good
-clearance prevents the filling getting so snugly around the wire. Therefore,
-as the web draws away from the edge wire in the process of weaving, the
-tendency is for one selvage rubber cavity to be small, while the other is
-large, which means that at the open side there is a freedom for contraction
-of the edge rubber which is not present at the other side, and a long-sided
-uneven web is the result.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Making a Good Selvage</span></h3>
-
-<p>To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to
-get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as
-possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance to
-separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should be
-set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a little
-longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the open side,
-and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the other side.
-The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that the loose
-fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether to counteract
-the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in a fine edge wire on
-the open side of the web to offset the creeping tendency of the selvage
-rubber thread when contraction takes place after the web comes through
-the press rolls.</p>
-
-<p>The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the
-appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber line,
-and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web generally.
-The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the size of the
-rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing the same,
-but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper care is not
-taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine a binder warp
-as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or excess of contraction
-by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps to fill in the
-rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to the rib. All the
-weight possible should be carried on the binder warp up to a point of safety,
-and care should be taken to get a very easy, uniform delivery of the warp
-from the beam so as to avoid any erratic jerky movement of the warp lever.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span></p>
-
-<p>The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should
-be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any
-irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform
-operation of the warp lever.</p>
-
-<p>The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two-fold
-purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a
-measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used,
-the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the
-shorter the stretch produced.</p>
-
-<p>Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch
-largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and
-great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of yarns
-used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing of the
-stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any excess of
-weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch. In fact,
-any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result in the difference
-between the profit and loss.</p>
-
-<p>In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around
-which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig. 6A, is
-highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable. Sharpened
-to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other end, it is
-fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an adjustable slip
-knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate the length of wire
-running in the web. It is then passed through a harness heddle eye on the
-rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space next outside the selvage
-rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire on the reed dent makes it
-necessary to have this dent of hardened steel so as to withstand the constant
-wear of the wire, which is always being crowded against the dent by the
-nipping action of the filling as it draws against the wire in the process
-of weaving, and the repeated beat at the same place in the dent at the
-weaving line. In any event, after a short time the dents in the reed will
-be cut so that it becomes necessary to frequently replace them with new
-ones, and for this reason it should be so arranged that they can be easily
-and quickly removed from and replaced in the reeds.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">The Lisle Web</span></h3>
-
-<p>The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to
-the loom web, except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed
-yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs, and
-is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand of
-rubber, instead of two as in the loom web. The harness draft of the one-half
-inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the weave, is shown at
-Fig. 7A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 36 ends 80/2; gut, 8 ends
-40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch; stretch,
-75 per cent.</p>
-
-<p>It will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two
-down, but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four
-picks of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness
-are distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get
-uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this
-respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended with.</p>
-
-<p>Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is
-the main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and
-therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this. The
-binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be weighted so as
-to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety, being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span>
-careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow in the goods
-or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most generally used
-for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock, of about 15 turns per
-inch. It should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so as to obtain all the
-covering property possible. It should be spun with the utmost uniformity,
-as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be noticeable in the goods.</p>
-
-<p>The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the
-greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise
-perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling
-yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of the
-yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil, poor
-circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when the
-color appears to be perfect, poor processing will often prevent the smooth
-running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and thus create
-irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated breaking of the
-selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods.</p>
-
-<p>The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when
-skein yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and
-almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the
-method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly so
-variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by
-quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn.
-Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the
-goods.</p>
-
-<p>Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the
-result of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a
-variety of other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too
-long in the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent
-wire that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the
-wire. Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into
-the dent, so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in
-weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes
-the cause should be found and not guessed at.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">French Web or Railroad Weave</span></h3>
-
-<p>Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and
-which is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle,
-is what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In
-almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as already
-described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at Fig. 8A. It
-allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally employed in
-the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which gives it a
-peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of railroad
-weave.</p>
-
-<p>There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it
-might be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to
-work the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton
-warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for the
-goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and forward
-sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam. This
-movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable feature.
-To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over a small, felt-covered
-wood tube, which revolves and responds to the movement of the
-bounding web. In this way there is no friction to glaze or polish the web
-and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same polish will occur as
-the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they are felt covered.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Cable Web</span></h3>
-
-<p>The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is
-known as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence
-of the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different from the
-plain web, it is well adapted to this class of goods. Simple in appearance,
-it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture, particularly when we
-remember that it is not unusual to be required to make a finished stretch
-of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft and weave are shown at
-Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24
-ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent; Picks, 80 per inch;
-Stretch, 100 per cent.</p>
-
-<p>The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber
-threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which
-may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the
-process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects.</p>
-
-<p>Trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and
-allowing the gut threads to prick through. To prevent this objectionable
-feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn for
-the gut, not necessarily of high grade stock, but a yarn which is uniformly
-spun and not at all hard or wiry. As these goods are being woven and
-on full stretch, the gut threads, of course, are perfectly straight and
-accurate in line, but when contraction takes place, to probably one-half the
-former length, these heavy threads, which form probably about 25 per
-cent. of the weight of the entire web, should bend or fold uniformly and
-dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to appear in any way on
-the face of the web, snugly housed away in the several pockets or cavities.
-If the yarn composing these gut threads is spotty or irregularly spun, this
-uniformity of fold inside the pockets will be broken up and the appearance
-of the face of the goods is likely to be marred by unsightly specks of
-cotton pricking through, which can be both seen and felt.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_IV"><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Elaboration of Honeycomb Effects by Parti-Dyed and Printed Fillings—Bandage
-and Surgical Webs Made with Plain and Covered Rubber—Frill
-Web Woven on Cam Looms—Double Cloths—Importance
-of Securing Balance Between Back
-and Face of Goods</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>Among the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of
-plain looms, is what is commonly known as the honeycomb, shown
-at Fig. 1 and Fig. 1A. This is generally made with silk, wood silk,
-or schappe filling. The smooth filling floating over two cords gives the
-web a smooth feel, there being no rib effect noticeable whatever, making it
-well adapted for a fine trade. The warp lines are almost entirely hidden
-by the filling, so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe
-fancy effects, which can be done both in the plain web and the cable. The
-honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as can
-be obtained from the filling.</p>
-
-<p>Fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more
-colors. Such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects at
-regular distances in different colors, such distances being governed by the
-length of the dips and the width of the goods. The effects which can be
-produced are quite varied. The simplest way of accomplishing this is to
-use the regular 54-inch skein, having white or some light shade as a base,
-and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color. This process
-is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack at the
-required distance above the color liquor, and then lowering them into the
-vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner.</p>
-
-<p>Where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are
-desired, long reeled skeins are used, sometimes 108 or 216 inches, which
-have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels. Such skeins are
-not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already described.
-Sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper and tied
-tightly, so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion, and then the
-whole is put in the liquor, when the exposed part only will be dyed.</p>
-
-<p>Then again sometimes wood clamps are used, like that shown at Fig. 2,
-having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being carefully
-folded. The two halves are clamped together tightly in such a manner
-that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while the part
-left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the dye
-liquor.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Printed Filling</span></h3>
-
-<p>Another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein
-yarn used for the filling. This is done by using a machine having a pair
-of fluted brass printing rolls, one of which is made to open on a hinge
-like a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it. This roller is
-then closed to its original position, so that with the two rollers parallel
-and close together, and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them, the
-turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein. The skein is then taken
-out and dryed before spooling. Different sets of rolls are used so as to
-get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing.</p>
-
-<p>Where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs
-of the honeycomb type, it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain
-cords in the center of the web, or possibly on either side, so as to break up
-the flatness of the weave. This opens up the opportunity of using lines
-of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will produce a
-plaid-like effect.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp37" id="ch4-fig1" style="max-width: 15.625em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Honeycomb</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch4-fig1a" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig1a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Honeycomb.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch4-fig2" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Clamp Used for Dying Parti-Colored Skeins</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Bandage Webs</span></h3>
-
-<p>There is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs, Fig. 3,
-in widths ranging from 2 to 4 inches. These webs are used for binding the
-limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns. They
-require to be made with a long soft easy stretch. An open reed of about 12
-dents per inch is employed. Four threads are generally used for the binder,
-weaving two up and two down. The goods are similar in construction to
-a regular lisle web, except that the gut is omitted in order to get the easiest
-possible movement.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch4-fig3" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Bandage Webs; Fabric at Left Made with Plain
-Rubber; Web at Right Made With Covered Rubber</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The yarn is generally the same quality and size for both warp and
-filling, and is usually a soft spun 2-20s. The side of rubber is generally
-about 38 or 40, with 40 picks per inch and a finished stretch of 100 per cent.
-The use such webs are put to, necessitating as we have already said a soft
-and sluggish stretch, prevents the use of a heavy rubber thread, the result
-being that when the bandage is kept in close contact with the warm body,
-the life of the fine rubber is of short duration.</p>
-
-<p>This condition, and the open weave necessary to get the easy stretch,
-have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber
-which have been covered with cotton threads before weaving. This process
-not only prolongs the life of the web, but allows for even more open weaving,
-the use of different weaves than would be possible where the uncovered
-rubber thread is used, and the production of a fabric more suitable for
-the purpose.</p>
-
-<p>In order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable
-characteristic of a bandage web, and yet have the necessary width, it is not
-unusual to introduce a seersucker effect, as shown in Fig. 4, in sections of
-the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the whole. In an ordinary
-cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually produced by the use
-of a separate warp of heavier yarn than the rest of the fabric, which warp
-must be weighted differently and often a different weave is employed to
-emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker effect.</p>
-
-<p>In the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary. Wherever
-the seersucker stripe is desired, strands of rubber are left out which of
-course takes away from these portions that element which contracts the other
-part of the web, and a seersucker effect is the result. Such stripes are
-often used for the ornamentation of some webs by having narrow sections
-introduced for border effects, or running down the center, and in fact they
-may be employed in a variety of ways, inasmuch as they lend themselves
-effectively to different forms of coloring, in relief to the main fabric.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp58" id="ch4-fig4" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Seersucker Effect</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp100" id="ch4-fig5" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—Frill Web Made on Cam Loom</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp100" id="ch4-fig6" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig6.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6.—Plain Web</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch4-fig6a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig6a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Fig. 6, Simplest Form of Double Cloth</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p>
-
-<p>In passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use
-covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making the
-warps, as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary thread.
-The spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp. Arrangements
-have been made so that to each spool is attached a special head,
-which can be weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached to a cord
-running in a groove on the auxiliary head. By this arrangement uniform
-delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to avoid any
-puckering caused by irregular warping.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Frill Web on Cam Loom</span></h3>
-
-<p>In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects
-is necessarily limited. The bulk of such webs, particularly those made with
-a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter web,
-however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may be made
-within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill feature is more
-generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy effects.</p>
-
-<p>The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired
-width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable
-width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven under
-tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the press rolls.
-The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract, but frill up
-uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds. No wire is
-required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension of the filling
-is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill warp and make a
-neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of the reed space
-occupied by the warp.</p>
-
-<p>The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder
-threads which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made
-in the regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity.
-The frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is
-so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for
-the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only be
-bound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it is bound
-at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so that it
-readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body part,
-and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds.</p>
-
-<p>Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses are
-used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven in at
-each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed, however,
-it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill warp, or a
-fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the frill. If such
-precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and stiff and will not fold
-uniformly as the center contracts. It may even retard the desired contraction
-of the body.</p>
-
-<p>It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed
-having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of getting
-a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents. The plan
-more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the frill part
-of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the body, generally
-in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may be evenly distributed
-in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse lines of the dents.</p>
-
-<p>Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only.
-In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having
-no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods to produce
-the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited contraction of
-the body part.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Double Cloth Webs</span></h3>
-
-<p>Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs
-of a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only
-one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We
-will now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where
-two distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each
-working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp
-known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such a
-manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp.</p>
-
-<p>By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be
-produced with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the
-single cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and
-back of the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and
-stock of different qualities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may
-be used to embellish the face, while the back may be perfectly plain and
-free from any coloring whatever.</p>
-
-<p>There are certain features associated with the construction of double
-cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different
-weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the warps
-into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp is required
-for both back and face and also one for the binder, which delivers a much
-greater length of warp than either, necessitated by the character of the
-weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths together. A separate
-warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the web perfectly straight
-and is shorter in length than any of the other sections. Such goods also
-require a special warp for the selvage, so that in the simplest form of such
-webs a bank of five warps is necessary. On fancy goods the introduction
-of fancy warps may add to this number.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Balance Between Back and Face</span></h3>
-
-<p>The element of a right balance between the back and face has to be
-considered, and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the stock
-the result may be that one side of the goods will assert control over the
-other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and even. When such a
-web is cut it will curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable. Such a condition
-may arise from a variety of causes. If the weaves of the face and back
-cloths are identical then it will be necessary to have the face and back
-warps of the same size yarn or its equivalent. For instance, should the
-face be a four-thread plain and 40/2 is used, and the back only two threads,
-then the yarn used for the back warp must be 20/2 so as to equal the
-four threads of 40/2 in the face. Should, however, the face be a more
-open weave than the back, then an equal weight of yarn in both cloths
-will not be right, and it will be necessary to use yarn of a heavier weight
-for the face to compensate for the freedom of the more open weave and
-effect a proper balance with the more tightly woven back. There can be
-no fixed rule to apply to this, and only experience will indicate the proper
-relationship between the two. In Figs. 6 and 6A are shown the simplest
-form of double cloth, known as a plain web.</p>
-
-<p>By carefully following the weave it will be seen that while the face
-weaves 3 up and 1 down, and the back 1 up and 3 down, the filling will
-appear both on the face and back of the goods as 1 up and 1 down. If
-the binder was not there it would be a tubular web, having the same appearance
-all around. The binder, however, intersects the upper and lower cloths
-at each pick and binds the two together in one complete whole, while the
-rubber lies between the two, each strand being separated by the interlocking
-binder threads.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span></p>
-
-<p>It becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and
-lower cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp, which as will be
-seen in Fig. 6A is drawn in on all four face and back harnesses, and the
-threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around. To
-do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side, otherwise
-the weave at this point would show two threads operating together next
-to each other, and would break up the continuity of the weave.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch4-fig7" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch4-fig7.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 7.—Method of Banking a Set of Warps for Double Cloth Webs</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of
-the web. It forms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber
-threads, and it must be so arranged that these threads can function properly
-so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat. In the first place the
-yarn must be of such a size that with the proper number of threads employed
-the selvage will contract uniformly with the body of the goods, so
-that the web will not “frill” on account of a too heavy selvage, or “belly”
-because it is too light.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Care for Selvage</span></h3>
-
-<p>The threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make
-a good clearance for the filling, which otherwise would “nib” up and make
-an unsightly selvage. Then again, a careful adjustment of the weight
-carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the
-requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle, otherwise
-the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off when strained
-out of proper alignment with the front reed. It will be observed in the
-draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage, which is necessary
-in order to control the additional yarn used in the construction of the
-selvage.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_V"><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Three Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain Back—Position
-of Back Rolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four
-Leaf Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures—Interchanging
-Figure and Face</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>Turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we
-will take up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin
-face, woven in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web
-not only used for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset
-garter attachments also. A web of this character when properly constructed
-has a smooth velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed across
-the width without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps,
-which are completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of
-the face threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these
-floating face threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing
-a smooth handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs
-are generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back,
-and have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a
-plain web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and
-gives the fabric a much finer appearance.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Harness and Chain Draft</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 1 shows the harness and chain draft of such a web, together with
-the construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of 1⅛
-inches wide. It will be noticed that the face, consisting of 150 threads,
-is split up into two warps of 75 threads each. This arrangement is
-necessary in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in
-the shed. The warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put
-on six harness frames, although the weave could be produced on three. It
-would not be practicable to crowd 50 threads on one harness frame in the
-narrow space available, as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too
-much when changing.</p>
-
-<p>In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the
-threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other
-face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement
-in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism,
-and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper
-divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps
-have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and also
-on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves.</p>
-
-<p>The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent
-undue friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be
-worked under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this
-must carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation
-to the harness shed.</p>
-
-<p>In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded
-in the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent
-a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional
-floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl up
-when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may be
-prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast beam rod,
-so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly tighter than
-that which is in the upper harness.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span></p>
-
-<p>The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to
-produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed, and
-thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The filling yarn
-should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good uniform quality, in
-order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the rubber. The reed dent inside
-the selvage rubber should be carefully twisted at an angle to conform to the
-nipped in position to the rubber thread, so that the outside edge of the
-dent will not cut the rubber when the reed beats against the goods at the
-weaving line.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch5-fig1" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in Conjunction With a Plain Back</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch5-fig2" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Showing Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Shed</p>
-</div>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Use of Coarser Yarn</span></h3>
-
-<p>A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face
-yarn by using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat. This is shown
-in the harness draft at Fig. 3.</p>
-
-<p>In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin
-weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so in
-elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would produce a
-ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face is about the
-limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few exceptions, and
-even this only in connection with fine picking.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Use of Four Leaf Twill</span></h3>
-
-<p>A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a
-heavy body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.”
-These are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their
-weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7
-down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back,
-while giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile
-produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by
-the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back
-warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth
-more firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch5-fig3" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention
-is that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this
-has a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs
-in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of
-combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of the
-sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper balance
-of the different weaves employed in the face and back. Otherwise the goods
-would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for manufacture.
-Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding the size
-upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say more later.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Filling Fancy Effects</span></h3>
-
-<p>All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on
-cam looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what
-are generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these
-under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are
-called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called
-stitch patterns.</p>
-
-<p>The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over sections
-of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in contrast to the
-warp. They are confined to no particular character of design, and may
-range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy harness loom or
-dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The ground or body may be
-either plain or twill, or any other acceptable weave suitable as a base for
-figuring, while the filling may be of a contrasting color, either of silk or
-cotton as desired. The figure or design may be made from the same shuttle
-used for the ground or it may be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used
-as an overshot or rise and fall, according to the character of web desired.</p>
-
-<p>Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as a
-sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at intervals
-so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these points. No
-additional figure warps are required for this class of goods, and elaborate
-designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for cross coloring that
-there is in the warp figure method.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Stitch Fancy Patterns</span></h3>
-
-<p>When the design is made from the warp, the figure threads are made
-to float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after
-weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face,
-and make what is termed a stitch figure.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch5-fig4" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Point Draw Stitch Figure</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch5-fig4a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig4a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 4</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is practically
-unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern the construction
-and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a proper
-balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is necessary
-to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and back of the
-goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In the double
-cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of the goods,
-is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths, going in
-the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at these times
-as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the contraction
-of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the construction.
-Here again we must note the effect of the contraction in piling up the
-floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the floats in making the
-design so as to avoid any ragged appearance.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp80" id="ch5-fig5" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—Interchanging Figure and Face</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch5-fig5a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch5-fig5a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 5</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span></p>
-
-<p>Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain
-draft at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for
-the main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the
-figure is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running
-between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as
-a gut.</p>
-
-<p>In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put
-gut threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must
-be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21 center
-cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the edges and
-make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure between the
-upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the design, affords
-opportunity for introducing additional warp threads of different colors, so
-as to be able to bring up either one color or another as desired in a design.</p>
-
-<p>As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it
-will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat
-limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs from
-such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of methods
-by which a big range of designs is possible.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Interchanging Figure and Face</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging”
-fancy in which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it
-does in the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The
-harness and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design
-a given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure
-threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure
-threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to each
-other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the interchanging
-face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves only three picks
-up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on the face cloth, and
-this produces a perfectly flat web.</p>
-
-<p>Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the
-“picot” edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is
-woven in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to
-float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out in
-small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_VI"><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head
-Motion and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One
-Bank of Shuttles—The Overshot Method—Use of Different
-Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long Floats</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1.
-The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave,
-but the yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next
-to the plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other.
-It will be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords
-with the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up
-the contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled
-cord, the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they
-pearl up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other
-turns to the left, making an effective border.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Sunken Effects</span></h3>
-
-<p>An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3.
-Both of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both
-cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most
-effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may be
-worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy head
-loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on either
-side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the plaid effect
-aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face warp is striped in
-color. The character of the figure is such that the major part of the face
-warp is operated in one solid block, making it practicable to produce this
-on harnesses worked on a chain loom.</p>
-
-<p>In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design
-independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom.
-But inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to
-the face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads
-from the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the
-cams or fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that
-a truer and clearer shed can be obtained.</p>
-
-<p>Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated
-from two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so
-as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed.
-A 208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these
-goods, allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements
-of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord.
-Such arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the
-binder and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to
-use different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the
-design in relief effects to the main figure as required.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Calculation for Figure Distribution</span></h3>
-
-<p>In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the
-figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web. As
-already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at these
-points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is acting as
-filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should heavy blocks
-be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly manner. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span>
-filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it will mass well
-together and in a great measure prevent the buried face stock from
-pricking through.</p>
-
-<p>In designing webs of this character, calculations have to be made from
-the web after it is woven and finished, otherwise the design may be out of
-the desired proportion. A web may have 60 picks per inch on the breast
-plate while weaving, but when contraction has taken place after going
-through the press, it may have shrunk as much as 50 per cent. The
-steaming and finishing process may further contract it another 10 per
-cent. which might make the picks about 100 per inch. Of these only one-half
-appear on the face and the other half on the back. Therefore 50
-picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made,
-and paper scaled according must be used.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Cross Shot Weaving</span></h3>
-
-<p>We have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle
-looms. Turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of
-shuttles we would first make note of what is known as the cross shot. This
-is a form of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the
-further element of economy, inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp
-can be worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method.</p>
-
-<p>In the construction of single shuttle webs, the rubber harness rises and
-falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed. This movement
-creates a friction on the rubber thread at the harness eye and an added
-friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent. Friction
-is still further increased by the backward and forward movement of the
-lay, which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot.</p>
-
-<p>In the cross shot method, the rubber remains stationary, with no
-upward and downward motion, which enables the rubber thread to be
-stretched out to its extreme limit while weaving, with little danger of
-chafing or breaking. Over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct
-sheds, one making the upper and the other the lower cloth. These two fabrics
-are stitched together by the binder warp, which travels up and down through
-both of these sheds.</p>
-
-<p>In order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding,
-it is necessary to run these under separate back rolls, fixed at different
-heights, properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness
-and breast beams.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Position of Rolls</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 4 will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the
-breast beam. It will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles used
-for this type of weaving, both pointing to one common center, made
-necessary by the character of the two sheds. The bow of the upper shuttle
-must be tipped downwards, and the lower bank must be tipped upwards,
-so as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are
-passing through the sheds.</p>
-
-<p>The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in
-the harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled
-around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the
-lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper shuttle,
-and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the outside rubber
-until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower fillings are connected
-by what are known as tie threads. These threads are drawn in the
-harness at each side of the body warp, next to the edge, and are part of
-the binder warp. They are operated from the binder harness, but are
-only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as the center of the
-web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do the balance of the
-binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use of long looped
-harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads through the one shed.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp87" id="ch6-fig1" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Effective Combination of
-Weaves In a Fine Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp52" id="ch6-fig2-3" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig2-3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Figs. 2 and 3.—Sunken Effects</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch6-fig1a" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig1a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch6-fig4" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Position of Rolls in Relation to Breast Beam for Cross Shot Weaving</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span></p>
-
-<p>The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a
-longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam
-jacks, or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be
-regulated both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling
-may be corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Use of Different Stocks and Colors</span></h3>
-
-<p>The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different
-grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face
-warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back.
-Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing
-the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not
-practicable in single shuttle work.</p>
-
-<p>All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this the
-most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a considerable
-quantity of which is still used for inserts for house slippers, this
-is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the production of a face
-having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the shoe leather, while
-the back may be perfectly plain and white.</p>
-
-<p>It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where
-fancy figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for
-the back, binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these
-warps, being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the
-labor on the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel
-of the lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection
-with single shuttle.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">The Overshot Method</span></h3>
-
-<p>The overshot method, which we have previously referred to, is another
-form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing
-from the cross shot but equally important. This kind of weaving is designed
-as a substitute for silk jacquard webs, which it has to a great extent
-supplemented. Before its introduction it was customary to use a slow
-running “rise and fall” lay movement, when making a silk figure with the
-shuttle, putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks, so that
-the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible in overshot
-weaving. In the old method the silk used to pass from edge to edge of
-the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle, and where the figure did not
-appear it was buried between the upper and the lower cloths.</p>
-
-<p>In the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or
-border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of sight.
-In the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time, while the figure or silk
-shuttle only runs with every alternate pick. The main body of the goods
-is woven in every respect the same as in a single shuttle web, and it may
-embrace all the weaves, such as plains, twills or fancies, which are common
-to single shuttle weaving. Arrangements are made, however, for the
-production of an auxiliary shed, by a movement which pulls certain threads
-above the main shed, and while these are open to pass the extra shuttle
-under them, and thus bind in the figure filling. The lower part of the
-lay has straight shuttles, while the upper bank of shuttles is tipped down
-to conform to the formation of the auxiliary shed they are designed to
-pass through.</p>
-
-<p>The binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated,
-are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily stand<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span>
-the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary shed. The
-Crompton &amp; Knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this purpose.
-This special machine is provided with two horizontal draw knives, operating
-any or all of the 30 hooks, and is so arranged that the connected warp
-threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the height of the main
-shed, or to the additional height of the auxiliary shed.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp43" id="ch6-fig5" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—Simple Overshot Design</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp30" id="ch6-fig5a" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig5a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23
-hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the
-binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed,
-or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will
-be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not
-operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span>
-that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the
-silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at
-the border of the figure.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Making Overshot Designs</span></h3>
-
-<p>In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk
-float too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should
-the design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary
-to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to
-break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp
-figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the
-dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as to
-work on the pick when the binder harness is down.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch6-fig6-7" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch6-fig6-7.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as
-the “matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the
-web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different points,
-the bindings forming the figure.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of
-the gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy
-pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting
-cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in order
-that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this, each of
-these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are operated from
-the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the face thread in
-the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise them to the
-height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass under them.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_VII"><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel
-Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic
-Fabrics Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production
-of Pearl Edge—Special Fancy Drafts</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that
-are not possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made
-mention of the frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed
-by the fluting of non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the
-center part. This same effect may also be used in the center of the goods.
-To accomplish this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses
-to operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on
-which the frill sections are drawn in.</p>
-
-<p>The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through
-one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The
-shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The
-operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in
-which the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the
-goods for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp75" id="ch7-fig1" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp75" id="ch7-fig2" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of
-the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will
-be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side of
-the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill. The
-insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber strands
-used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable to use a somewhat
-heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to compensate for this.
-The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at Fig. 2A.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Woven Shirred Effect</span></h3>
-
-<p>Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be
-seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to
-imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of
-plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span>
-machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic
-material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side. When
-the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic part
-forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time the
-remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side of the
-elastic part.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch7-fig1a" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig1a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch7-fig2a" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig2a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 2</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by
-an interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span>
-and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There
-being no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths
-together, the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so
-formed. Upon the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths
-are thrown out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections
-in which there is no rubber will complete the frill effect. This woven
-method has in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike,
-whereas in the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable
-and unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of
-labor in assembling the different parts.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Novel Decoration at Edges</span></h3>
-
-<p>A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy
-frill at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in
-method. This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks
-of shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads
-of cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the
-harness the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a
-delicately adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated
-on a special harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all
-the other warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far
-away from the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop
-required.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp61" id="ch7-fig3" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Woven Shirred Effect</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp61" id="ch7-fig4" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Novel Edge Decoration</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of
-picks, and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in
-thread comes in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it.
-As the shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the
-easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with other
-warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the further
-progress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the same time is
-carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the one in which
-the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects may be
-produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors may be
-used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and selvages
-of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the goods
-may be made.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Lappet Weaving</span></h3>
-
-<p>Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been
-extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design obtainable
-by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity for considerable
-elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment which
-permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar to
-embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used
-it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a plain
-loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain composed
-of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern desired.</p>
-
-<p>On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the
-lay, which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can
-also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides have
-generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at equal
-distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. When slides
-are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over the yarn
-which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth. Then by
-moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and each
-time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns are
-produced.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp65" id="ch7-fig5" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—Lappet Weaving</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp65" id="ch7-fig6" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch7-fig6.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6.—Broken Effect on Silk Frill</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns, as shown at Fig. 5,
-and well adapted to narrow goods. Dots of different sizes and in different
-positions may also be made, but it is not practical to get the finely
-finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where there is
-positive control of any particular warp threads or group of threads, as
-for instance in jacquards and overshots.</p>
-
-<p>The sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its movements
-so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the
-same points at each repeat of the pattern, although the general design will
-be maintained. The threads which feed the needles should be of good
-clear ply material, free from slubs and irregularities, so that they will
-pass freely through the needle eyes, and they should have enough turns to
-enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and forward
-sliding movements of the lay passages. The yarn must be delivered
-from independent spools, which work with perfect freedom, and measures
-should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p>
-
-<p>The material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from
-grooved spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the
-needles at every forward movement of the lay.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Pearl Edge</span></h3>
-
-<p>An effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is
-found in what is known as the pearl edge. This adds much to the richness
-of the goods, besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight
-increase of cost. The pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge
-wires, which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the
-frill itself. Each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it into
-the weaving lines as desired, so that the filling may pass around it and
-make pearl loops at these particular places. It will be found necessary to
-use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in, otherwise the
-dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires.</p>
-
-<p>A silk frill may also be much enriched by special fancy drafts. These
-allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes over
-and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks contrasting
-with the more plainly woven parts. An example of this is shown
-at Fig. 6.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_VIII"><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Designs Produced by Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head
-Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical
-Belts and Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed
-Designs—Method of Printing</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>In previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production
-of elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are more
-or less limited in capacity, and the stock must be operated in groups of
-threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns best
-adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is controllable,
-and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the space
-available on the face of the fabric.</p>
-
-<p>Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the
-production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of
-jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is
-necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in the
-fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on
-account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point,
-which prevents uniform contraction.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Designs in Sunken Effects</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 1 is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well
-distributed. This pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure
-threads brought up alternately. Both warps are buried to allow the back
-filling to appear in relief. This indicates the wide scope of design possible
-on a single shuttle, which is almost unlimited.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 2 illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp
-effect in connection with a silk figure. It also serves to illustrate the effect
-of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes. Fig. 3 shows still another
-type of double shuttle design, in which a parti-colored face warp lends
-an entirely different effect to a design. Fig. 4 is an example of three
-shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground, and two shuttles
-for the silk figure.</p>
-
-<p>It would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design
-possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary. If
-a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited. The
-custom generally adopted is to operate the back, rubber and gut from chain
-or cam harness, as the same movement of all these threads is maintained
-continuously, and to operate the face and binder from the jacquard.
-Fig. 5 is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender loom, having
-two machines mounted on it, and with the back and rubber harness operated
-by the fancy head.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Jacquard Tie-Up</span></h3>
-
-<p>Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the
-greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings. As
-already stated in a previous article, any failure in the initial arrangements
-will result in constant trouble and faulty work. Mispicks and floats may
-not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics, but in elastic webs a
-float will so pearl up on construction that the goods will be ruined. Once
-again, and of the greatest importance, measures should surely be taken to
-have some form of screw adjustment for the raising and lowering of the
-jacquard machines to compensate for expansion and contraction of the
-strings, caused by changing atmospheric conditions.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch8-fig1-4" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch8-fig1-4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1 <span class="spacer">Fig. 2</span>
-  <span class="spacer">Fig. 3</span> <span class="spacer">Fig. 4</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch8-fig6" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch8-fig6.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6.—Formation of Abdominal Belt</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Weaving Buttonholes</span></h3>
-
-<p>In the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics, particularly
-suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished products.
-Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary buttonhole
-sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in the controlling
-of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a very unsightly
-buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found advisable to weave the
-buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the “Guyot” suspender,
-where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for the back ends, and
-non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used for the front straps.</p>
-
-<p>The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired
-place, and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven.
-This is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, both of which are
-running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one of
-which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of the
-goods is being woven, the other bank running “dead” underneath the goods
-during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two distinct
-sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged,
-the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other
-half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again
-formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of
-weaving the plain part of the strap.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch8-fig5" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch8-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5—Jacquard Suspender Loom With Two Machines and Fancy Head</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This process of changing from the single to the double shed is accomplished
-by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two sections,
-to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one side of
-the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap both sections
-of the cam jack operate in unison, running side by side from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span>
-same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for spreading
-apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds are then
-formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position of the
-lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and properly
-engage the two sheds.</p>
-
-<p>Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the
-position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not
-engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the
-goods, and require trimming off between the buttonholes. This trimming
-may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same
-in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this
-particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the
-lower shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the
-goods at every pick of the loom and does not need trimming.</p>
-
-<p>The elastic back end, having a buttonhole in it, is also made on a special
-loom, which has a “rise and fall” movement of the lay. It has a chain
-fancy head with what is known as a Gem multiplier on it for regulating
-the length of the plain part, so that one repeat of the plain weave can be
-multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on as desired.</p>
-
-<p>In making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes, particularly
-when required to be attached to garments, it is often found that the
-joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness. A web is
-made on the special loom just described of such character that it does
-away with this objection. A section of plain web may be woven of any
-desired length, and then another section made in which the upper and
-lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance. After being taken
-from the loom this double section is cut in the middle, so that the non-elastic
-part may be used for attaching to the garment. When thus made
-the rubber and binder lie “dead” between the two cloths, and are trimmed
-off after the non-elastic part is cut in two.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Making Abdominal Belts</span></h3>
-
-<p>There is a growing demand for webs of various characters for surgical
-and orthopedic purposes. One of these which calls for special attention
-is a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts. The width
-varies from about four inches, where it is used to support the back, to
-about six inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen.</p>
-
-<p>Such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain
-webs, except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top
-to bottom, from fine to coarse. This reed is arranged in a reed pocket
-attached to the lay bed, and is designed to slide up and down behind it.
-Underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism, which is so operated
-that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time, and
-then gradually work up and down in a given period. This allows a web
-to be produced with a formation similar to that shown at Fig. 6.</p>
-
-<p>The rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part,
-and gradually spread while operating at the wide part, returning to their
-original position for the other narrow end. If properly constructed the
-goods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends, and the opening up of the
-cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give more
-freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section, which will cause
-the goods to “belly” at this point. This rounding formation especially
-adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended. Various modifications
-of the taper web may be made in this manner, but the same general
-plan is applicable to all.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Printing Designs on Elastic Web</span></h3>
-
-<p>The printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment
-which opens up large possibilities for variety of effect, and adds much to
-the selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost. Moreover it
-gives an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns
-which may not have proved good sellers, but when printed will often become
-the most popular patterns offered. A woven striped effect with a few
-crossbars printed on, transforming it into a plaid, changes its character
-entirely. Or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable
-may make big changes in its selling qualities.</p>
-
-<p>But apart from this the field of original design is practically unlimited.
-The work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks of
-various colors, making proper arrangements for the drying so that the
-colors are absolutely fast. Colors should not be used which are more or
-less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing.</p>
-
-<p>The goods, when printed, are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand
-a reasonable time for proper absorption of the ink. They are then run
-slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors, a number of strips
-being put through the drying chamber at one time. The pattern rolls are
-best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern, and the ink
-uniformly distributed on the raised part. Care should be used to have
-the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not
-appear will not come in contact with the ink roll.</p>
-
-<p>This method has proved better than using engraved rolls, besides being
-less expensive. After the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate
-of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing
-roll, great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected, particularly
-where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in the
-design.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch8-fig7" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch8-fig7.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 7.—Diagram of Machine for Printing Elastic Fabrics</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Fig. 7 is a sketch of a printing machine. The design roll A is five
-inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple
-wood, glued and screwed firmly together, with the grain well crossed to
-prevent shrinkage and warping. The design plate is carefully fitted
-around and pinned securely to this roll. The rubber covered rolls B and
-C carry the ink and are positively driven. The small roll D, while revolving
-by frictional contact with roll C, is also vibrated sidewise by a cam-driven
-lever E, so as to distribute the ink uniformly. The rolls are run
-on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given pattern
-on the goods.</p>
-
-<p>All the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to
-the full length of the frame bed, so that the pressure of the different
-rolls can be accurately adjusted. The machines are easily operated and
-print 12,000 to 15,000 yards of web a day.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_IX"><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Making Warps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect of
-Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web
-Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for
-Different Styles of Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in
-Goods—Rubber’s Reaction on Copper</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double
-cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the
-number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and
-the different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber,
-it is essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between
-the face and the back of the goods.</p>
-
-<p>This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the
-face and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used
-may vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different.
-All this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade.
-These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then
-again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the
-take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various
-weaves.</p>
-
-<p>It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser
-material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these
-together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used
-necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The
-binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also
-requires a special warp.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Selvage Under Special Control</span></h3>
-
-<p>The general appearance of the finished product being so dependent
-upon the character of the selvage, it is advisable to have these threads under
-special control, so that they may be treated in the best possible manner
-to produce a satisfactory shed, and allow the filling to get a good
-clearance. So as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore
-necessary to have this on a special beam.</p>
-
-<p>It will be seen, therefore, that in an ordinary piece of double cloth
-elastic web there will be required at least five warps: back, face, binder,
-edge and gut. Figures and fancy effects will often necessitate auxiliary
-warps. With very fine webs, having six threads to a cord, it is often found
-necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper working conditions.
-Figs. 1 and 1A show a six-cord web, together with warp calculations for
-the goods.</p>
-
-<p>The employment of so many warps to each strip of web, which are
-automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in a previous
-article, prohibits the use of warps where the threads are equally distributed
-across the beam, as is the practice in wide fabrics, the method usually
-being to tape them on the beams.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Warping Machine</span></h3>
-
-<p>The required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in
-a creel, each thread passing under an electrically connected wire, which is
-held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making. If<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span>
-the thread should break, the wire would drop and make an electrical
-connection which would automatically stop the machine. Fig. 2 shows a
-view of a warping machine such as is used for this work. They are
-generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams, all of which
-may be run together or started, stopped or run individually, as required.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch9-fig1" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch9-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Six-Cord Web</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch9-fig1a" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch9-fig1a.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Each beam is friction driven so that a uniform speed is obtained in
-the delivery of the yarn from the spools. Beams are also so arranged
-that they will stop automatically on reaching a given size. Each warp
-thread is passed through a pair of reeds, fitted with dead stops in the
-center of alternating dent spaces, so that leases may be put in the warps
-at fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span></p>
-
-<p>In taping the warps on the beams, it is customary in some mills to run
-the threads over a small steel flanged pulley about one and one-half inches
-wide, which will keep each thread in its proper position and make the tape
-absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam. A perfect fabric is
-largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made, but it must
-not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam.</p>
-
-<p>Beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards,
-but should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel,
-which should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges
-clear, and thus reduce the friction to a minimum. The edges of the flanges
-should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the
-contact lever. Much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might
-be avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp95" id="ch9-fig2" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch9-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—Warping Machine</p>
-</div>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Quills for Shuttles</span></h3>
-
-<p>The making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small
-importance, for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very
-much depends. When flanged wood quills are used, the guides should be
-carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the entire
-length of the quill, allowing for perfect freedom at each end without
-dragging. Quills should not be overloaded. In drum pressure quilling, the
-automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be filled even
-with the outer edge of the flanges and no more.</p>
-
-<p>Should there be any tendency to hardness in the material used for
-filling, it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on
-which has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil, but great
-care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so hurtful
-to rubber goods as oil.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span></p>
-
-<p>The quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform
-delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends. To assist in this
-elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones, so as to shorten the
-angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme
-end. Thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from
-start to finish. The quill flanges should not lie flat against the sides of
-the quill opening, but should be pointed at the ends so as to reduce the
-friction. Quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be perfectly
-straight at all times. When it becomes necessary to run narrow goods in
-wide spaces, recoil springs should be provided to gather up the loose filling.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Care Required in Finishing</span></h3>
-
-<p>The finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care,
-and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web construction.
-Calculations must always be made as to what effect heat,
-moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads, confined
-as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high tension. As
-soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate upon the
-covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads, the rubber strands
-begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place. To what
-extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values, and a certain
-degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for.</p>
-
-<p>Webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the
-looms are liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely
-ruined by unsuitable finishing. For instance, take a web with a twill
-center and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the
-loom. The effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract the
-soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border, which will
-cause the web to be long-sided and curl. Such a condition must be
-anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset its
-occurrence. Sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of some of
-the yarns used, or number of threads employed at given points, or perhaps
-added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in certain places.
-It must always be remembered that we are dealing with a very much
-alive element when we are finishing rubber goods, and that unexpected
-results may at any time arise.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Finishing Machines</span></h3>
-
-<p>Finishing machines vary both in design and capacity, but the general
-principle is the same in all. A series of drying cans are arranged for the
-application of the sizing mixture. Some machines are laid out horizontally
-and some are upright. In the longitudinal layout the machines are
-more easily accessible in their different parts and under better control,
-while the upright machines are more compact and occupy less floor space.
-Fig. 3 shows a horizontal machine of the latest type. It has a drying
-capacity of eleven cylinders, 24 inches wide, 36 inches in diameter, allowing
-for a web contact of about 100 feet. These cylinders are arranged in two
-decks so as to economize in floor space.</p>
-
-<p>The goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular
-brushes, fixed at the feed end of the machine, to clear them from lint and
-dirt before being steamed and dried. They next pass between two pairs of
-nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments.
-The goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in a
-steam chest. They pass into and out of this chest through slots underneath
-the cover. A trough carries the condensed steam away from the
-goods and prevents dripping, otherwise they would be spotted.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch9-fig3" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch9-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Narrow Fabric Finishing Machine</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span></p>
-
-<p>The steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform
-shrinkage of the goods. The steaming process softens the cotton, and the
-rubber threads, which are under considerable tension, gradually creep up
-and contract the goods. The steaming also makes the web more absorbent
-and thus prepares it for the size bath, through which it is passed under
-submerged brass rollers. The size is kept at a uniform heat by steam
-heated copper coils. The web then passes through the second pair of nip
-rolls, which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size
-before the web reaches the drying cans.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Allowance for Contraction</span></h3>
-
-<p>The first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth, so as to
-absorb any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow
-it to penetrate by further softening. As the goods continue to pass over
-the hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place. This contraction
-is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans.
-Intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose, so that
-the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of
-different kinds of web.</p>
-
-<p>The two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently
-driven, so as to provide for the shrinkage which takes place at the steam
-box and size bath. At the delivery end of the machine the goods pass
-through a set of nip rolls which are belt-driven from cone pulleys, so as
-to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying
-cans. From these last nip rolls, which are fixed quite high, they drop
-into receiving cans or boxes.</p>
-
-<p>Ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time.
-Adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to keep
-the goods running in proper position. The speed of the machine is usually
-governed by a Reeves transmission, and the delivery of the goods ranges
-from 10 to 15 yards per minute, according to the requirements of finishing.
-Three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage, but this again
-is determined by the goods. Neglect at any point in this process may so
-interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and costs are materially
-changed.</p>
-
-<p>New patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the
-goods come from the loom, as short lengths made in sample looms are not
-at all times reliable. Frequent tests are also advisable to see that original
-conditions are maintained, as changes made by heat, steam and speed are
-always liable to occur.</p>
-
-<p>The immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs.
-Double cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back
-only. Exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset
-trade, which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this
-bathing process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are
-to be associated with. Where the goods are sized on the back only the
-effect of this has to be considered when they are constructed, and provision
-made to maintain a proper balance under such conditions.</p>
-
-<p>In frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized, so as not to interfere
-in any way with the soft flutings of the frill. This is done by guiding
-each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath. The
-size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over them.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Acid in Goods</span></h3>
-
-<p>The requirements of the trade are so varied, and the types of web so
-numerous, that no formula for size is suitable for general use. Care must
-be taken, however, to avoid any sizes containing acids. Results from the
-use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on,
-when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts, the
-metal is quickly tarnished, and the result may be heavy claims for damage.</p>
-
-<p>It may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of
-vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans and the
-rolls over which the goods must pass. This can be effectively prevented by
-having the cans nickel plated, thus doing away with much risk of dirty
-goods, and of constant scourings and washing of the different parts.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp87" id="ch9-fig4" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch9-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—Narrow Fabric Singer</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that
-they will hold a liberal supply of size. Replenishment should be made at
-regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform temperature to
-get satisfactory results. It is advisable to make provisions to travel the
-web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the
-size bath, and before it strikes the hot cans, so as to allow for proper
-absorption of the size.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p>
-
-<p>All these details are best worked out by experience. Webs are generally
-fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up,
-and great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs
-when entering the machine.</p>
-
-<p>On lisle webs, a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to
-finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods.
-Fig. 4 shows a gassing machine used for this purpose. It is run at a
-high rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once. When the machine
-is running the flames are close to the web, but upon the stopping of the
-machine the flames are carried away out of contact. In gassing white and
-colors, great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and
-free from any carbonizing effect on the goods.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_X"><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span></h2>
-
-<p><i>Embossing Webs—Type of Construction and Design for Which Process is
-Adapted—Braiding Flat Elastic Fabrics, Plain Cords for Athletics
-and Airplanes, and Fancy Cords—How Sizes Are Indicated—Difference
-Between Woven and Braided
-Effects</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not
-adapted for long stretch webs.</p>
-
-<p>It has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch, suitable for
-use in the manufacture of suspenders. In long stretch webs the patterns
-will not stand out prominently for any length of time. After repeated
-stretchings and wear, they lose much of the desirable sharpness of detail,
-and become flat and indistinct. Twills and loose weaves of a similar
-character should be avoided for embossing. The best results are obtained on
-firm, closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the design with
-clearness and retain it for a greater length of time.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Designs Suitable for Embossing</span></h3>
-
-<p>In planning such work it is well to avoid designs which run for any
-great length with the warp, and to select effects where the general run
-of the design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads, rather
-than with them. This will prolong the life of the figure.</p>
-
-<p>The process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid
-goods. The machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure.
-It should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat
-while in contact with the embossing roll. The webs should pass through a
-steam softening process just ahead of the embossing. This steaming is
-done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box, the
-web passing through slots at either side. It puts the goods in condition
-to receive and retain the impress of the figure.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Embossing Machine</span></h3>
-
-<p>Figs. 1 and 2 show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics. It
-consists chiefly of a heavy frame A, a case hardened steel roll B on which
-the design has previously been engraved, and a hard paper roll C. The
-engraved steel roll B is heated with steam and may be subjected to heavy
-pressure by turning the hand wheels D.</p>
-
-<p>When putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll, it is
-necessary to run the machine empty for a few hours, gradually applying
-the pressure at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper
-roll so as to get a strong impress on the goods. When moire-antique or
-water effects are desired, the embossing rolls are engraved with straight
-lines of the desired distance apart, and the goods are fed into the machine
-after passing over irregularly formed rollers, which prevent them from
-going through the machine straight. Fig. 3 is an example of this effect,
-with the gros grain in the middle water-marked, and bordered with a
-fancy effect not embossed.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Braiding Elastic Fabrics</span></h3>
-
-<p>The braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with
-weaving. It does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects,
-but a great variety of elastic goods are braided, which serve many purposes.
-Round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber thread, such
-as is used for the protection of eye glasses, to the covering of multiple<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span>
-rubber threads for making a cord which may be one inch or more in
-diameter. Some of these cords are used by professional athletes in
-acrobatic work. Large quantities of heavy cord are now used for shock
-absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes, and they are much used for
-corset laces and doll cords.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp55" id="ch10-fig1" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1.—Embossing Machine</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp51" id="ch10-fig2" style="max-width: 20.3125em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 2.—End View</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp58" id="ch10-fig3" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig3.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3.—Embossed Water-Marked Effect on Middle stripe</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp58" id="ch10-fig4" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 4.—At Top, Cord Used by Acrobats; At Bottom, Exercise
-Cord In Two Colors</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>The braiding machines are small and compact, and are generally
-operated in gangs on benches. One operator can care for many machines,
-as they stop automatically when a thread breaks. Each machine may
-consist of a variable number of spool carriers, according to the character
-of the work they are engaged on. Carriers are made to travel around<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span>
-cam-like grooves formed in the bed of the machine, being operated by a
-chain of gears which propel them around a predetermined course. Gears
-and slots are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross
-each other in their passage, so that the various threads of yarn carried
-are plaited around the strands of rubber. The spools used on the carriers
-are specially designed, and have a series of notches on the upper end,
-into which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different
-covering threads, automatically stopping the machine.</p>
-
-<p>The rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving. These
-beams are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or belts, on
-which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep
-the rubber at a high tension. The beams are hung on brackets underneath
-the machines. If cords are being made, the rubber is delivered through a
-central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering
-threads may be plaited around it. As there is no friction on the rubber
-threads delivered in this manner (like the friction in weaving caused by
-the repeated passage of the reed), the rubber can be worked at the
-highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking, and economical
-results in this respect are obtainable.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp80" id="ch10-fig5" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig5.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5.—At Bottom. Flat Braid Contracted;
-At Top, the Same Braid Before Contraction</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp70" id="ch10-fig6" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch10-fig6.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 6.—At Bottom, Braided Frill; At
-Top, the Same Frill Before Contraction</p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Flat Braids</span></h3>
-
-<p>Where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately
-through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in and
-out between these threads, binding them together side by side so that
-they are flat as in a woven fabric. By this method each of the different
-covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to the other, giving
-them a diagonal direction across the fabric. This diagonal crossing and
-recrossing of the covering threads allows for the introduction of different
-colors, which produce a plaid-like effect.</p>
-
-<p>In making the flat braid, when the individual rubber threads pass
-through the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the
-machine, they all gather to one common center after they are through.
-This causes the rubber threads, when they are at a very high tension, to
-draw at a very acute angle at the edge of the hole, which necessitates
-running them at a lower tension than is desirable for economy. It also
-introduces a liability to break under the strain. In some mills this is cared
-for by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller, thus
-avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Sizes of Cords</span></h3>
-
-<p>The sizes of cords are determined by the Birmingham wire gauge as
-follows (Diameters in decimal parts of an inch):</p>
-
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.300</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.284</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 3</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.259</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 4</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.238</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 5</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.220</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 6</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.203</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 7</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.180</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Size 8</td>
-    <td class="tdr">.165</td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>In sizing or measuring the cord, it is passed easily into the gauge, so
-that it hugs the sides without crowding. Any cords made heavier than a
-No. 1 are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths.</p>
-
-<p>It becomes necessary in making heavy round cords, such as are used
-by athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes, to have a very durable
-covering over the strands of rubber. Such a covering is put on by using
-double deck machines, where above the regular machine there is another
-bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided
-fabric coming up from the lower deck. In such cases the inner covering is
-generally a cheap coarse material, while the upper deck of carriers braid
-the outer covering around it, which is of a higher grade material, often a
-highly glazed polished thread.</p>
-
-<p>Machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of
-different character that are required. Provision is made to carry the rubber
-beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine, which are of sufficient
-strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight necessary for governing
-the rubber tension. Above the machine there is a gear-driven take-up
-shaft, on which are tension rolls to govern the feed of the goods when
-braiding. The speed of these rolls can be regulated by change gears of
-various sizes. The goods are then fed on a belt-driven spool. On the very
-heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other press rolls to prevent
-any slipping back when feeding from the braiders.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Fancy Braided Cords</span></h3>
-
-<p>The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied
-uses, makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction.
-In the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much
-the same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the
-travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed up
-singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and out
-between them. A different machine is required for the various widths and
-number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each
-strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid
-requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width
-of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods
-determined upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and
-character of the material used for covering.</p>
-
-<p>On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when
-braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will produce
-variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric, inasmuch as
-the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same width is
-maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding, the threads
-move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the place of both
-warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no matter whether it is
-produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed material or take-up,
-results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise position of the threads
-is brought into a new position which is more of a crosswise formation.</p>
-
-<p>This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for
-very effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A
-fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at
-the outer edges.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Chapter_XI"><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span></h2>
-
-<p>WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR</p>
-
-<p><i>Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are
-Obtained—Cloth Construction</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from
-plain piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away
-with much of this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly
-shaped and formed for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable
-lengths. It is adapted to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away
-with and a collar is produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance.
-Much labor in collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this
-method of production.</p>
-
-<p>There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the
-production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is
-devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van
-Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves the
-loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer part,
-with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining together
-of the two parts as formerly.</p>
-
-<p>The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a
-greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band,
-properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar
-in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the
-scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production of a
-variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are different in
-many respects from the making of a flat fabric.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Heavy Loom Required</span></h3>
-
-<p>The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to withstand
-the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the filling, where
-an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual piece must be
-carried. The looms which are now being used have from 12 to 16 pieces,
-so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid indeed properly to
-care for the weight carried on the combined pieces, and maintain uniform
-picking. In order also to get the requisite shed opening, the strain on the
-cams and cam jacks is severe, so that provision for ample strength at these
-parts is essential.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Cone-Shaped Take-Up Roll</span></h3>
-
-<p>The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a cone-shaped
-take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1
-inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight roll,
-which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the slack
-delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of the
-swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight roll to set
-in proper position over the cone.</p>
-
-<p>At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped
-take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1
-<span class="transnote">[Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here
-from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense]</span>
-the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a
-free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at
-least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over
-which the cloth passes.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Woven in Three Widths</span></h3>
-
-<p>The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and
-5¼ inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so as
-to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed over
-these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side of the
-web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into sections and
-carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect clearance in
-the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">The Weave</span></h3>
-
-<p>The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face,
-back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face and
-4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads
-required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.</p>
-
-<p class="center">WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR</p>
-
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <th></th>
-    <th colspan="4">4¼ Inch</th>
-    <th colspan="2">4¾ Inch</th>
-    <th colspan="2">5¼ Inch</th>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <th></th>
-    <th>No. of Warps</th>
-    <th>Threads (60/2)</th>
-    <th colspan="2">Weight Carried</th>
-    <th>No. of Warps</th>
-    <th>Threads (60/2)</th>
-    <th>No. of Warps</th>
-    <th>Threads (60/2)</th>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Face</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">99</td>
-    <td class="tdr">8</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">109</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">119</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Face</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">82</td>
-    <td class="tdr">7</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">92</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">104</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Back</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">198</td>
-    <td class="tdr">13</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">218</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">238</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Back</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">164</td>
-    <td class="tdr">12</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">184</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">208</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Binder</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">99</td>
-    <td class="tdr">10</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">109</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">119</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Binder</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">78</td>
-    <td class="tdr">7</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">88</td>
-    <td class="tdr">1</td>
-    <td class="tdr">100</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Gut</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">99</td>
-    <td class="tdr">8</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">109</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">119</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Gut</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">78</td>
-    <td class="tdr">7</td>
-    <td class="nw">lbs. each</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">88</td>
-    <td class="tdr">2</td>
-    <td class="tdr">100</td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back
-rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for 2 back
-and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which will
-allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which together
-with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it convenient
-to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads straight and
-confined to the limitations of space available.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp62" id="ch11-fig1" style="max-width: 31.25em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch11-fig1.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth</p>
-</div>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Method of Reeding</span></h3>
-
-<p>The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to
-each dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in
-using a 26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span>
-the next, splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work
-much easier, and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing”
-caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the
-bleaching process.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="ch11-fig2" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/ch11-fig2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the
-collar is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at
-the desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position
-of the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to
-meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style
-of the collar desired.</p>
-
-<p>There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are
-more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P.
-yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached
-afterwards.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Knitted_Narrow_Fabrics">Knitted Narrow Fabrics</h2>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">William Davis, M.A.</span></p>
-
-<p><i>Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn
-Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for
-Wires and Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for
-Trimmings—Use of Core Thread to Give Strength</i></p>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>Knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions
-and adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines.
-Several important concerns in this line have recently been active in
-producing types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow
-fabrics for various purposes.</p>
-
-<p>The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been
-recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge how
-closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there is not the
-necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting. The machine
-generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of stocking knitter
-containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to be employed as a
-sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a full stocking
-machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use the ribber or
-dial which is always supplied.</p>
-
-<p>The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning
-factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is satisfactory
-for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the machine by hand,
-owing to the small lengths required and the frequent changes necessary
-when testing different colors and qualities.</p>
-
-<p>The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the
-bearded needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also
-owing to the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give
-good work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions.
-It is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various
-colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine.</p>
-
-<p>This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and
-thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for
-knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths
-on a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and
-this fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being
-produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different
-diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose.</p>
-
-<p>In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven
-metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be
-used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp
-edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material
-into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest
-efficiency.</p>
-
-<p>Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what
-are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary
-mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span>
-made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch needle,
-and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the needles a
-gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation of air as well
-as affording a clean method of handling the meat and protecting it in the
-course of transport on ship, train and truck.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Plain Knitted Tube</span></h3>
-
-<p>Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products
-of the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what
-an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the knitting
-industry. Fig. 1 shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular form
-on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40 needles in
-the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are 40 stitches
-shown here in flat form.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp65" id="knitted-fig1-2" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/knitted-fig1-2.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 1 <span class="spacer">Fig. 2</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp70" id="knitted-fig3-4" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/knitted-fig3-4.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 3 <span class="spacer">Fig. 4</span></p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering
-wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity than
-woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more simple
-and direct manner. It should be pointed out, however, that this fabric is
-susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a little further strain
-will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus it is clear that it cannot
-be used by itself to any great extent in cases where great strain or pull will
-be applied to it. Made in suitable materials, there is nothing to hinder
-this tube from serving as lamp wicks.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Introduction of Fancy Stitch</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one
-needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known as
-“tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its thread
-for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second thread on
-the next course so that two threads are knocked over together, giving rise
-to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration.</p>
-
-<p>This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch
-which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the result
-that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles unless it
-receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second course. All<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span>
-the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with the single
-stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles in the circumference,
-one needle would be inserted with this extra long latch to give a
-tuck stitch right down the tube.</p>
-
-<p>As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made
-to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube.
-According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in
-the middle or at the side.</p>
-
-<p>Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3
-and 4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch
-is made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is
-inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the
-circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second
-vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric directly
-under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of making the
-tuck stitch more pronounced.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp80" id="knitted-fig5-6" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/knitted-fig5-6.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 5 <span class="spacer">Fig. 6</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figmulti illowp70" id="knitted-fig7-8" style="max-width: 21.875em;">
-  <img class="w100" src="images/knitted-fig7-8.jpg" alt="" />
-  <p class="caption">Fig. 7 <span class="spacer">Fig. 8</span></p>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<p>In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by
-having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the tube,
-and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them on
-the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch needles
-in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect, the tube
-as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as to show
-the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out of alignment
-at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Use for Trimmings</span></h3>
-
-<p>In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found
-extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or cut
-trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented at
-a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these
-touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the
-work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install
-such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary knitting
-machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Patterns With Colored Yarns</span></h3>
-
-<p>Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this
-principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics suitable
-for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric produced on a
-machine of still narrower dimensions, having only 12 needles in the circumference
-of the machine. In this case the pattern effect is introduced
-by having several feeds of thread in the circumference; three different
-colors are employed and introduced in the order of one white, one black,
-and one tan all the way down the fabric, thus giving rise to a style of
-pattern which is very suitable for many purposes of the knitting manufacturer,
-particularly of outer garments. There are three yarn feeds round
-the circumference of this machine and every revolution of the machine
-creates three courses in the three colors named.</p>
-
-<p>It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a
-decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as would be
-approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is one of
-the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds are used.
-They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects appear at an
-angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the reverse, as it
-takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces attractive effects
-in twill fashion similar to what can only be created in woven goods by the
-aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting of the cloth.</p>
-
-<p>Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging
-parts of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable
-finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature, these
-bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth which
-will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied, enabling the
-garment to retain its shape.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Knitted Cords</span></h3>
-
-<p>Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle
-knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two
-feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying
-green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The material
-is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is employed for
-threading through certain garments which have a kind of open trimming
-through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the drawing
-together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords are provided
-with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further ornamental
-feature.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same
-machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green.
-This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be produced
-to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply replaced with
-another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this pattern again
-a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the direction of the
-right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect.</p>
-
-<h3><span class="smcap">Use of Core Thread</span></h3>
-
-<p>In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic
-and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this event
-it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run into the
-machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made of some
-strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above the machine.
-That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the center of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span>
-circle of needles so that it is completely covered by the knitted fabric. Its
-use considerably strengthens the cord and makes it suitable for certain
-purposes for which it otherwise would not be satisfactory.</p>
-
-<p>Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of
-machine where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked
-with two yarn feeds, one black and one white, giving a one and one black
-and white effect in the cord. For this style it is necessary to have a core
-thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the knitting
-proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be quite round
-in effect.</p>
-
-<p>The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle
-by an arrangement such as is supplied with the Union Special sewing
-machine, where the latch needle works by power, enters its loop and takes
-the new thread, which it draws through the old one, thus making an endless
-chain of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the
-ground work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine.</p>
-
-<p class="titlepage">THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK</p>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS ***</div>
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