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diff --git a/old/68564-0.txt b/old/68564-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 53c0e21..0000000 --- a/old/68564-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,828 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coast, -by Frederick J. H. Merrill - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coast - -Author: Frederick J. H. Merrill - -Release Date: July 18, 2022 [eBook #68564] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor, David E. Brown, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BARRIER BEACHES OF THE -ATLANTIC COAST *** - - - - - - BARRIER BEACHES OF THE - ATLANTIC COAST. - - BY FREDERICK J. H. MERRILL, PH. D. - - - _REPRINTED FROM THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY - FOR OCTOBER, 1890._ - - NEW YORK: - D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. - 1890. - - - - - BARRIER BEACHES OF THE - ATLANTIC COAST - - BY - FREDERICK J. H. MERRILL, PH. D. - - -From Cape Cod to Cape Florida our coast is fringed with barrier -beaches. They are the reefs of sand which protect the mainland shore -from the storm-waves of the ocean. Isolated and uninhabited were -most of these sea-born barriers for a long period in the history of -our country, but the need of a breathing-place on the part of the -thousands who inhabit our crowded cities has caused, within a few -years, a great transformation. Railroad and turnpike bridges have been -built, connecting many of them with the shore. Hotels and cottages, -club-houses and bathing-houses, in short, buildings for every purpose -which contributes to the pleasure and comfort of man have sprung up, as -it were by magic, on the south shore of Long Island, on the coast of -New Jersey, Virginia, and the Carolinas, on the famed sea-islands of -Georgia, and on the coast of eastern Florida. - -Much alike are these peninsulas and islands wherever we view them along -the coast. The chief variation is in the vegetation which clothes them. -The beaches of Long Island are almost barren, but from New Jersey -southward many are covered with dense forests which vary in their -trees according to the latitude. At Sandy Hook, oaks, red cedars, -hollies, maples, and sassafras-trees grow in wonderful luxuriance. On -Seven-Mile Beach and Holly Beach the swamp magnolia abounds among the -others. In the Carolinas the palmetto appears, often ragged in outline -and blighted by the winter frosts. In northern Florida the palmettos -are more numerous and show the influence of a warmer climate, while -on the southern extremity of the zone of barrier beaches the cocoanut -palm, planted by accident or design, rears its leafy crown in luxuriant -verdure. - -It is not the design of the writer to describe in detail the beaches of -the Atlantic coast, but rather to consider their history and mode of -growth. As it has been his fortune to spend much time on the sea-shore -of New Jersey, he proposes to discuss the barrier beaches of that State -as types of their genus. - -They are sandy islands and peninsulas, from two to twenty miles in -length and from half a mile to a mile in width, separated by inlets -and usually divided from the mainland by an interval of several miles, -in which are broad expanses of salt meadow, fringing and separating a -series of channels, bays, and sounds. - -The beaches which are now in their highest state of development are -Sandy Hook, Seven-Mile Beach, and Holly Beach near Cape May. These -typical examples of the sea-born barriers are much alike in structure, -and consist of four principal divisions. The first division, or -interior, is an undulating area covered with heavy timber, of which -the size suggests its age. Immense hollies, oaks, pines, and red -cedars abound, many of the first measuring two feet in diameter, and -some of the latter attaining a circumference of four or five yards. -The sassafras grows in remarkable luxuriance and immense grape-vines -are everywhere to be seen, overhanging a dense undergrowth. In spring -and summer the ground is covered with fragrant blossoms; columbines, -violets, pinks, orchids, and a host of other flowers lend their blight -colors to enhance the varied greens of the foliage. This is the beach -primeval. Skirting it seaward is the second division, which bears -smaller timber. Low cedars, hollies, and pines are here the chief forms -of arboreal vegetation, and fewer flowering plants are seen. This zone -is of later formation, and its trees are younger than those of the -first. Adjoining it is the third division, which consists of a belt of -undulating dunes a few hundred feet or yards in width, and bearing -the mossy Hudsonia or scrubby bushes of beach plum and wax-myrtle, or -in some places, especially on the outer row of dunes, only supporting -a meager growth of beach grass. Frequently, between two rows of dunes, -an expanse of salt meadow occurs, or a sand flat bearing stunted forms -of plant life. With this third division ends the domain of vegetation, -succeeded by the sloping strand upon which the tide rises and falls. -The sand-bar, exposed at low water at the extremity of the beach, -is constantly increased in length and height by the action of the -currents, and the process of beach formation is here continually in -progress. - -As the tide falls, the sand laid bare is rapidly dried by the wind -and carried above high-water mark. Then, safe beyond the reach of -the waves, the minute particles are borne still farther from the -water, and striking against some piece of drift-wood, bush, or tuft -of grass, quickly build a hillock, which grows larger and larger as -more sand falls upon it, and a dune is formed many feet in height. -The material of which these dunes are composed is never at rest, but -flies hither and thither with the wind, and a hillock ten or fifteen -feet high to-day may noiselessly be taken down to-morrow and rebuilt a -hundred yards away. In time, as the beach grows seaward and the dunes -increase in number, those of earlier formation, which are somewhat -protected from the breeze, catch a few seeds, and tufts of grass begin -to grow upon them. Still later, the mossy Hudsonia or some starveling -wax-myrtle finds a little sustenance, and as years elapse the dunes -become so thickly covered with vegetation that under the protection of -the seaward hillocks they retain their form with comparatively little -change. - -Thus have the beaches grown. First a sand flat built by ocean waves -and currents; then a series of low, shifting dunes; next sheltered -hillocks, on which grasses and shrubs fasten their protecting roots; -succeeding the latter a growth of small cedars and pines; and, finally, -as centuries roll on, majestic forest trees raise their spreading tops -and shelter a dense undergrowth. - -These few words suffice to describe the beaches’ growth, their -physiology; but many pages might be written upon their history, -the details of their development, their changes and their decay. -Unfortunately, the records are but incomplete. From the memories of -old men we can glean some facts in regard to the former condition and -extent of certain beaches and concerning marked changes in them which -have been notable events to men of quiet lives. In a few instances, -surveys were made a century or two ago which can be compared with those -of to-day. At present we can watch the changes which occur from year to -year. As geological science advances we can speculate concerning the -past on the basis of present knowledge and observation. We have little -accurate information, but, after all, we have much that is interesting. - -The beach of Sandy Hook forms the northern extremity of the New Jersey -sea-coast. Previous to 1778 it was connected with the base of the -Navesink Highlands by a sandy isthmus, the mouths of the Navesink and -Shrewsbury Rivers being open to the east; but from that date until -about 1830, and from 1848 until 1889, it has been united with the -mainland at Monmouth Beach by a narrow strip of sand. - -According to records in the office of the Surveyor-General of East -Jersey and in that of the United States Coast Survey, the point of -Sandy Hook advanced northward about one mile between 1685 and 1885. The -lighthouse was built about 1764 near the water’s edge, and the ground -on which it stands had then existed for only fifteen years as a portion -of _terra firma_. - -In 1844 the point was about two hundred and fifty yards north of -its present limit. Since that date it has receded slowly toward the -south, and toward the west has extended a quarter of a mile. We have -no evidence concerning the date of formation of the old “Hook” which -existed before 1685. It is now well marked by immense forest trees, -which exceed in height and size of trunk any of their species known to -the writer in the neighborhood of New York. - -The rapid growth of Sandy Hook is due to a current which flows -northward from the vicinity of Manasquan, carrying with it a great -quantity of sand removed from the water-front of Asbury Park, Long -Branch, Seabright, and that vicinity, which is dropped along the border -of the “Hook” and its extremity. The investigations of the United -States Coast and Geodetic Survey have shown that the ebb and flow of -the tides from and to New York Bay produce this current by drawing a -stream of water through False Hook Channel, which lies between Sandy -Hook and a submerged bar called False Hook half a mile to the east. -The stream flows northward more than seven hours out of twelve, and -from this fact property-owners in the neighborhood of Long Branch may -appreciate what becomes of their real estate when it disappears during -the storms. If there were any means of identifying the soil, it might -all be found on the rapidly growing point of Sandy Hook. - -About 1778 a channel was opened across the narrow isthmus which -united Sandy Hook with the base of the Navesink Highlands, and a new -passage being thus afforded for the tidal currents of the Navesink and -Shrewsbury Rivers, the old Shrewsbury Inlet, which formed the common -mouth of those two estuaries, was gradually closed by the northward -extension of the sand-spit which formed the southern limit, and in -1810 became impassable. The barrier thus formed existed until 1830 or -1831, when it was broken through and a second inlet was created. By a -change in the tidal currents, due to the formation of this new inlet, -the isthmus which formerly connected Sandy Hook with the Highlands of -Navesink was again brought into existence and remained until 1835. An -artificial channel was then cut through it, and this being gradually -deepened and widened by the ebb and flow of the tides, has ever since -remained open. The second Shrewsbury inlet closed in 1840 near Island -Beach, having moved northward nearly three miles during its existence -of nine or ten years. In 1837 or 1838 the third and last inlet opened -near the present Bellevue Hotel, and afforded a better channel for -navigation than the second inlet, which it followed in its northward -course and survived by about eight years. From 1848 until September, -1889, no inlet has been opened; but this fact is due rather to the -efforts of the railroad company to maintain its road-bed than to a -diminution of the tendency of the waves and tidal currents to open a -passage. - -The facts and dates concerning the Shrewsbury Inlets have been obtained -chiefly by inquiry from old fishermen and sailors who have spent -their lives on or near the waters of the Navesink and Shrewsbury -Rivers. Coming from a number of independent sources, they agree very -closely, and those here given may be accepted as worthy of credence. -The tendency of the inlets to work northward, periodically closing and -reopening farther south, has been observed in all those between Point -Pleasant and Sandy Hook, especially in those of Manasquan and Shark -Rivers. Between Point Pleasant and Cape May, however, all the inlets -are moving southward. - -From Monmouth to the head of Barnegat Bay there is no beach similar to -that of Sandy Hook. Instead of a sand-reef separated from the mainland -by a navigable channel, there is only the sloping strand adjoining, -as at Long Branch, the foot of an upland bluff, or as at Spring Lake, -Seagirt, and Point Pleasant, with its crest on a level with the surface -of the upland. Between Bay Head and Cape May, however, there are twelve -beaches, mostly well developed and preserved, and named respectively -Squan, Island, Long, Island or Little, Brigantine, Absecon, Peck’s, -Ludlam’s, Seven-Mile, Five-Mile or Holly, Two-Mile, and Poverty. The -majority of these, however, do not show the high degree of development -exhibited by Seven-Mile and Five-Mile Beaches. Some appear to be only -in the earlier stages of growth, while others have passed their prime -and are now yielding to the attacks of wind and wave. - -These agents have been hitherto considered only with reference to -their constructive effect on the beaches, and it now remains to -consider their destructive action. - -When the wind blows from the west it carries back to the sea much of -the sand which the east wind had piled up in dunes, and, but for the -fact that the latter wind prevails, the sand-hills would not long -exist. By a surplus of constructive action, however, the beaches are -all moving to the west. Year after year sand is removed from their -eastern margin by the winter storms, and carried north or south -according to the direction of the prevailing current. The winds from -the ocean drive the dunes westward, and, with the possible exception of -Sandy Hook, all the beaches are now underlaid by an old salt meadow, -originally formed in sheltered waters on their west side. In this turf, -when exposed during an unusually low tide, the footprints of cattle -are seen in many places, made, it is claimed, when the salt meadow was -a pasture and lay on the shoreward side of the beach. This westward -recession has, in many cases, amounted to more than a mile within two -centuries. - -On many of the beaches south of Point Pleasant the westward progress of -the dunes has been made over and through the native forest. As a result -of this, gnarled cedars, dying and dead, are found among the dunes; and -in many cases stumps may be seen in the sand within reach of the tide. - -Near the northern end of Seven-Mile Beach, at the time of the writer’s -visit in 1885, an immense dune forty feet in height and half a mile -in length had been for many years encroaching steadily upon the dense -forest. The tree-tops here projected above the summit of the ridge -like the heads of drowning men above the waves; while on the outer -flank of the overwhelming mass of sand the gnarled, skeleton trunks -of those which had perished in it stood bare and grim, showing with -dreary grayness the fate of the earlier victims of which the ragged and -wave-worn stumps alone remained. A more desolate scene the writer has -never witnessed. - -At Long Branch the wear of the coast has been very great. According to -the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, a strip of land varying -from three hundred to five hundred feet in width was removed between -Deal Beach and Monmouth during the twenty-seven years preceding 1868. -In the vicinity of Seabright the amount of wear was a little less -than two hundred feet during that period. Of late years the rate of -recession has been diminished in the neighborhood of Long Branch by -the means of artificial protection employed, but near Seabright the -shore line is said to have receded at least two hundred feet during the -past quarter of a century. At Cape May the wear of the shore has been -continuous except where the land is protected by jetties or a stone -sea-wall, the rate of encroachment varying from ten to thirty feet a -year. - -Besides these alterations produced in the beaches by their westward -progress, the variations in the positions of the inlets and the -subsidence of the coast have caused many important changes. The history -of the Shrewsbury Inlets has already been given; it remains to mention -a few of those south of Point Pleasant. - -Squan and Island Beaches, which now form a peninsula about twenty miles -long, terminating at Barnegat Inlet, were separated from 1750 to 1812 -by Cranberry Inlet, which was nearly opposite the mouth of Tom’s River. -Since 1812 near the site of this old inlet there have been others of -brief duration, and one is said to have existed before 1755 opposite -the mouth of the Metedeconk River, which separated Squan Beach from the -mainland. - -The old Barnegat Lighthouse is said to have stood nearly six hundred -yards north of the present south shore of the inlet, at a point now -occupied by the center of the channel. In 1855 the old tower was at -the water’s edge, so that the inlet has moved southward approximately -twenty yards per year. - -Absecon Inlet, which separates Brigantine Beach from Absecon Beach, has -encroached upon the latter about four hundred yards in twenty years; -and the ocean front of that portion of Absecon Beach which is occupied -by Atlantic City extended in 1855 nearly half a mile farther east than -it did in 1885. About 1875 jetties were built which arrested the action -of the tidal currents, and, the wear of the shore being thus prevented, -a considerable area was restored. - -Submerged tree-stumps and other evidences of a subsidence of the coast -may be found on the beaches and the salt meadows, but a detailed -enumeration of them would be beyond the scope of the present article. - -In Cape May County the depression has not been less than twenty feet, -and has possibly been much greater. The evidence of some old buildings -on the shore of Delaware Bay suggests a subsidence of about four feet -during the last two centuries. - -It is doubtful whether depression _alone_ has caused the wear of -the coast. A comparison of the present outline of Holly Beach with -that determined by a survey in 1772 shows an accretion on the south -and east, since the latter date, more than three and a half miles -long and averaging three eighths of a mile in width, and on many -other beaches a similar growth has taken place. During the past five -years the ocean has rapidly encroached upon these beaches, while the -subsidence of the coast, so far as we know, has been uniform throughout -the past two centuries. It would appear, therefore, that the growth -and decay of the beaches are more dependent upon the action of the -ocean currents and winds than upon other agencies. Unquestionably the -depression of the coast renders the beaches more subject to overflow -and erosion by the waves and currents; but the evidence at many points -shows that the latter are capable of forming large areas of beach -where the conditions of their existence and action favor construction -rather than destruction. While these currents act as at present, the -cost of preventing the ravages of the sea, by the methods commonly -in use, would probably be much greater than the value of the land -protected, for the fine sand is so unstable when wet that bulkheads and -breakwaters are quite ephemeral. - -After an extended examination of the various systems of shore defense -in use between Sandy Hook and Cape May, it appears to the writer that -the only effectual means of protection is the construction of jetties -extending far enough from the shore to intercept the currents which -carry away the sand loosened by the waves. Such jetties have added a -large area to the territory of Atlantic City, and have protected the -shore at Cape May; no doubt they would be effective everywhere if -properly constructed. - -The experience of the past ten years on the New Jersey coast shows -conclusively that the ocean front is not fit for building purposes, for -it is impossible to protect a house near the water’s edge from injury -or destruction in the heaviest storms. The height and force of the -waves in such a tempest as that of September 10 and 11, 1889, render -them irresistible to any body or structure which nature or art has yet -produced, and anything within their reach must suffer. The immediate -water-front is only available for parks; and, if devoted to this use, -when protected from the erosive action of the currents by suitable -jetties, would remain a neutral ground which, in fair weather, would -afford numberless attractions to the occupants of dwellings placed far -enough from the strand to be out of reach of the storm-waves. - -Property-owners along the ocean front of the beaches have generally -made the mistake of supposing that the domain of the Atlantic was -bounded by the high-water mark of the spring tides. Any one who -should build a dwelling on the strand below ordinary high-water mark -would be considered lacking in common sense, yet it is scarcely less -foolish to build within reach of the storm-waves. It is, of course, -true that many cottages are now much nearer the water’s edge than -they were a few years ago. This is due to the wear of the shore by -currents already described as flowing parallel to it and removing the -sand which the waves have loosened. If the action of these currents -should be stopped--and there is good evidence to show that a system -of jetties would intercept them and cause them to drop their stolen -load of sand--the wear of the shore would be arrested and the yearly -encroachments of the ocean would cease. - -With regard to the inundation of Atlantic City by the sea in the -great September storm of 1889 it should be said that this catastrophe -ought not to be considered very wonderful, since the greater portion -of the city is less than ten feet above mean tide, and the highest -point recorded by the New Jersey State Survey is only thirteen feet -above that level. As ordinary tides rise a foot above this plane, and -spring tides nearly two feet, it is evident that a prolonged easterly -storm would soon cause a considerable area to be overflowed. Since the -bays and channels which lie between the beach and the mainland are -almost completely landlocked and the inlets are relatively narrow, the -water-level is soon raised to a height of two or three feet above the -meadows, and this is sufficient to cover most of the railroad tracks. -To be sure, no such inundation as the recent one has occurred since -Atlantic City became a place of importance, nor do the old residents -on the coast remember such a storm in former years; but it is evident -that, while the beaches were uninhabited, such a storm as the one in -question would attract less attention, since it would cause little if -any loss of property. - -The genesis of the beaches is still a matter for speculation, but -it may be safely affirmed that they originated as sand-bars, formed -under water by wave and current action. How these bars were brought -above water, so that the wind could exert its constructive power, is -uncertain. A plausible hypothesis is, that while the ocean was breaking -on the mainland shore and forming the Quaternary terraces, which may be -seen there, sand-bars were made under water, and that the continental -elevation which raised these terraces to their present position -from twenty-five to eighty feet above tide, brought these sand-bars -above water into a horizon of Æolian action. Once above the sea, the -beaches would maintain their existence. A continued elevation of the -coast would add to their seaward extent and a depression would cause -a westward recession until they were brought to rest by contact with -the mainland shore. In New Jersey the latter condition may be observed -between Long Branch and Point Pleasant and also at Cape May. - -So far as it is known to the writer, the only way in which a beach can -be entirely destroyed is by an inlet shifting its position. In this -case the beach obliterated is replaced by the extension of an adjacent -beach. - -Of the beaches south of New Jersey not enough is known to the writer -to permit of a detailed biographical sketch. Their form and structure -show that they have been subject to the same formative agencies and -vicissitudes as those already described. In addition to the Georgia -sea-islands of _ante-bellum_ fame, may be mentioned as familiar -examples the barriers which in Virginia and North Carolina separate -Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds from the ocean; in Florida, Amelia Island -on which is built the city of Fernandina; Anastasia Island, in front -of St. Augustine; and the beaches which separate Halifax and Indian -Rivers from the Atlantic. The last named rivers are the lagoons which -separate the barriers from the mainland shore. Lake Worth is one of -these lagoons, of which the inlet has been closed. - -To what extent the Florida Keys may be included in the category of -barrier beaches must be decided by future investigation. Key West -is evidently a wave-built sand-bar composed of fragments of coral, -molluscan shells, and foraminifera, and it seems likely that Cayo Largo -and others of that type may be of similar origin. The coquina deposits -of the vicinity of St. Augustine are also wave-formed. - -The hypothesis of Prof. Louis Agassiz, that the Florida Keys are all -of organic origin--i. e., that they were formed by the growth of coral -reefs--may be true so far as the determination of their location and -direction. A submerged reef of coral may have formed a nucleus on -which the waves and currents deposited a load of calcareous sand, but -the superficial portion is evidently similar in origin to that of the -beaches farther north. - -Barrier beaches are found on all the sea-coasts of the world where -opportunity for their growth has been afforded, and those of New Jersey -may be regarded as types of these formations in all their essential -features. - - - - -TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES: - - - Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_. - - Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized. - - Archaic or variant spelling has been retained. - - The cover image for this eBook was created by the transcriber and is - entered into the public domain. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BARRIER BEACHES OF THE ATLANTIC -COAST *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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