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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #68287 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68287)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Dragons and Cherry Blossoms, by Mrs.
-Robert C. Morris
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Dragons and Cherry Blossoms
-
-Author: Mrs. Robert C. Morris
-
-Release Date: June 11, 2022 [eBook #68287]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Charlie Howard and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
-             at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
-             generously made available by The Internet Archive)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DRAGONS AND CHERRY
-BLOSSOMS ***
-
-
-
-
-
-  DRAGONS
-  AND
-  CHERRY-BLOSSOMS
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  DRAGONS
-  AND
-  CHERRY
-  BLOSSOMS
-
-  By
-  Mrs. Robert
-  C. Morris
-
-  New York
-  Dodd, Mead
-  & Company
-  1896
-]
-
-
-
-
-  _Copyright, 1896_,
-  BY DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY.
-
-  _All rights reserved._
-
-
-  University Press:
-  JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.
-
-
-
-
-  TO
-  MY HUSBAND.
-
-
-[Illustration: Clad in native costume.]
-
-
-
-
-Many have been before me, and the theme of this volume can hardly be
-called new, for Japan has been viewed from every side and through all
-kinds of eyes. This, however, has not deterred me from jotting down
-a few observations and experiences of my own, hoping that in them my
-readers may feel some rays of the Orient sunshine and beauty.
-
-I desire to thank Mr. Burton J. Hendrick for the kind and sympathetic
-aid given upon the manuscript.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
-                                           PAGE
-
-  Foreign Residents                          15
-
-  Shopping                                   49
-
-  Our Dinner at Kioto                        81
-
-  Miyako Odori                              109
-
-  The Rise and Fall of the Kakemono         141
-
-  A Glimpse of Royalty                      173
-
-  Fin de Siècle Japan                       209
-
-  Cho and Eba                               239
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
-
-
-Your visit to Japan is likely to be a succession of surprises. Our
-discovery of the country is so recent that the large amount of
-literature on the subject frequently fails to change your childhood
-impression of that distant land. European travellers often entertain us
-with their ideas of America as an uncultivated waste with an occasional
-hastily constructed town, in which the red man is still to be seen;
-and my notions of the land of the Mikado were somewhat similar. I could
-never think of the Orient without thinking of the mushroom hat; and for
-me Japan meant a succession of bamboo huts, almond-eyed men with long
-and low-hanging moustaches, an occasional china cup, and now and then a
-strangely decorated fan. I was not at all sure that it was a hospitable
-shore to visit; I understood that heads were removed there upon the
-slightest provocation. My earliest knowledge was gained from the
-paper lanterns that were the delight of Fourth-of-July celebrations,
-and those remarkably adorned napkins familiar to patrons of church
-fairs. I was also frequently called upon to make Sunday-School
-contributions for the conversion of these abandoned souls, and have
-vivid recollections of listening to many addresses by daring spirits,
-who had actually returned from the dangerous soil. After such occasions
-as these, I always looked upon the principal occupation of the Japanese
-as the stoning of missionaries. As I grew older, I tried to educate
-myself into different ideas, but all the books that I read, and even an
-occasional Japanese friend that I made, did not succeed in doing away
-with my childish fancies.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-And so, when I found myself sailing into the Port of Yokohama one
-bright April morning, the ideal Japan of years gone by was what was
-uppermost in my mind. At first I thought there must be some mistake,
-for there was nothing to be seen in this harbour to correspond with
-the strange delights of my dreams. Not a single one-storied, thatched
-house, such as used to grace the pages of my geography, was visible
-on the shore. Everything, as far as I could see, was the same as the
-entrance to an European seaport. The long array of wharves might
-perhaps be missing, but there was many a ship built on western lines,
-and occasionally a small steam-tug went puffing by, the whistle blowing
-as naturally as in any western harbour. And, even as I looked beyond
-all this, towards the shore, there was no visible sign that I had
-reached Japan. “Those people who make pictures of Japanese life do not
-tell the truth,” I thought to myself, completely bewildered. When I
-landed, I found large brick houses of a most occidental kind, and shops
-fitted out in the regular English style. Not only were the outward
-evidences of life most un-Japanese, but few of the people passing up
-and down the street had the almond eyes, the short, wiry hair, or the
-olive complexion that I had quitted America to see; and young nurse
-girls wheeled about little carriages containing the same kind of babies
-that I had left three thousand miles away. Children in little trim
-English clothes, with their little English bare legs, were walking
-about and occasionally disappearing behind English hedges into houses
-of a distinctly Queen Anne type.
-
-While I was surveying all this with a startled air, I was delighted and
-relieved by the sight of several small Orientals who ran quickly up to
-the wharf, dragging behind them peculiar two-wheeled conveyances. Yes,
-after all, here was some indication of the thing for which I had been
-looking; these were men of Japan, it was true, but hardly the Japanese
-of whom I had dreamed. They seemed rather out of place in this
-European city, and did not assume an aggressive air at all, as they
-politely offered to carry us to the hotel in their strange vehicles.
-
-The explanation of this state of affairs is, however, very
-satisfactory. When you reach Yokohama, you land at what is called
-the Settlement, which is the portion of the city set aside by the
-Government for the foreign residents. Japan itself is situated back
-of this, and there, if you jump again into your _jinrikisha_ and take
-another ride, you will find that it is Japan indeed.
-
-There is one great hotel at Yokohama,--a genuine European importation,
-with large parlours, reading and sitting rooms, electric lights and
-bells. Your _jinrikisha_ man immediately takes it for granted that you
-wish to stop at the Grand Hotel, and without waiting for instructions,
-hurries you off to Ni-jiu-ban, as it is called in the vernacular. You
-will probably arrive during the season of travel, and so be enabled
-to see the house at its best. If one or two of the foreign ships are
-in the harbour, and the officers come ashore, a scene of unusual
-attractiveness is sure to follow. A military band plays during dinner,
-commonly discoursing the patriotic airs of the different nations,
-though a well-known western march is frequently interspersed. The rooms
-are trimmed with flowers; there are ladies in bright, pretty gowns,
-men in evening dress, and Japanese “boys” in blue tights, white coats,
-and stocking feet. The gathering is decidedly cosmopolitan. You can
-talk with an American on stocks, an Englishman on golf, a Frenchman on
-Panama, or a Russian on the Triple Alliance. If you only step out on
-the piazza and take a short stroll, you will have a fine opportunity
-to gratify your taste for contrast, for it will be stepping from the
-Occident to the Orient. Perhaps the moon is shining--and the moon seems
-to shine differently in Japan than at home. There, below you, lies the
-land you thought you were being cheated out of; there are the small
-one-storied houses, the narrow streets, all bathed in the silence that
-so well fits your mood. A few lights are blinking below, but for the
-most part you see only what the moonlight cares to reveal. Off in the
-harbour are large shadowy forms which you know are western vessels, and
-your spirit feels a touch of old-fashioned patriotism at the thought
-that one of them is flying the American flag. The sound of the music
-comes from the distance, and you know that the dancing has begun; but
-you care little at the present time for such occidental diversions.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-In the morning the sun will probably be shining in a truly oriental
-way, and you think it might be well to take a drive. Probably the
-first thing you will see, will be a large number of young Japanese
-girls, apparently out for a walk. Though they are clad in their
-own native costumes and have a general appearance that is decidedly
-Japanese, there is yet an air about them suggestive of the West. You
-puzzle over the matter for some time, and at last, with a sudden
-burst of intelligence, exclaim: “A boarding-school.” And you are
-right; these young girls are being trained in the usages of the best
-English society, and have begun to dabble in French and algebra in a
-true boarding-school style. As they pass you by and you go on, you
-will see many small children attended by Japanese _amahs_, and baby
-carriages meet you everywhere. There are also a few shops scattered
-around, and looking to the left you will see the British flag waving
-above the marine hospital. A little further on, your heart gives a
-bound, for you see the stars and stripes waving in the breeze, and
-you think that being an American is not so bad after all, whatever
-the foreigner may say of our confusion of “baggage” and “luggage” and
-our use of ice-water at dinner. It is the American hospital, a large,
-old-fashioned building, comfortable and home-like, with a garden
-filled with flowers and tropical plants. You can look from here into
-the bay, and the ship so dimly perceived the night before, you see is
-the “Baltimore.” You keep in the road, pass more Queen Anne houses and
-pretty green hedges, and an occasional bungalow; and further on you
-meet a park that has been laid out by the foreigners. Here are more
-baby carriages and bare legged children, and several prettily arranged
-tennis courts in which the players are enjoying themselves in a genuine
-English way.
-
-It is probably a holiday, and the people will soon turn out for a
-celebration. It is hard to find a day in Japan that is not a holiday.
-It is well to know this before you visit the country, or you will be
-very much inconvenienced. You will be likely to visit the bank, and be
-much surprised to find it closed. “Why?” you will ask a friend, and
-he will answer: “It is a holiday.” And what is the day celebrated?
-Perhaps the fall of the Bastile; perhaps the discovery of the Gunpowder
-Plot; perhaps Washington’s birthday, the Fourth of July, or one of the
-innumerable sacred days of the Japanese. The trouble is that there
-are so many different nationalities in Japan, each demanding that
-certain events be respectfully observed, that only on about one-third
-of the calendar days can business be transacted. It is a country of
-a perennial holiday. There are a great many ways in which properly
-to observe these occasions, and a large number of entertainments
-are arranged. If you wish, you can attend the theatre,--not the
-anciently-established institution of the country, but a genuine play,
-such as you sometimes see in the Occident. I qualify the statement
-because I think it seldom that you will permit yourself to attend such
-execrable performances at home as draw crowded houses of intelligent
-people at Yokohama. They are given by strolling players on their way
-around the world, who stop at the principal Japanese cities and foist
-their wares upon a diversion-craving public. They entertain you with
-the misfortune of the “Forsaken Leah,” the mistakes and unavailing
-repentance of “Bob Briley,” the “Ticket-of-leave-man,” or you may have
-the opportunity of weeping through five acts of “East Lynne,” or “The
-Elopement.” A minstrel show has been known to come ashore, and an
-exhibition of French marionettes is no uncommon sight.
-
-Perhaps your nature requires a different kind of excitement; if so,
-you may attend the races. These are carried on in the true English
-style, and are very generously patronised. The occasions are holidays
-in themselves, and offer a sufficient excuse for the closing of the
-banks and stores. A race track has been laid out back of the residence
-portion of the city, and has an additional attractiveness in the fact
-that it commands an excellent view of the elusive Fuji. Foreigners
-turn out in full force, many coming down from Tokio. Often the Mikado
-honours the affair with his presence; he is always an interesting
-addition to any event, but he is an inconvenient person to have
-around, owing to a peculiar phase of Japanese veneration. No one may
-hold his head higher than the Mikado, else his sacredness would be
-outraged; and the many attempts to make him tower above the rest of the
-populace frequently produce amusing complications. Such a predicament
-happened a short time ago, when the Mikado was on his way to the races.
-An American with more curiosity than knowledge of Japanese religious
-rites, thought it a fine opportunity to catch a glimpse of the royal
-person, and so elevated himself upon a box near by and awaited the
-procession. He had stood there some time, flattering himself upon the
-difference between American and Oriental intelligence, when his peace
-of mind was suddenly disturbed by a series of shouts, which, he divined
-from the gesticulations, were directed towards himself. The constant
-motions to descend he regarded with a true Yankee stoicism, and it
-was not until the box was pulled from beneath his feet, that he was
-induced to pay the proper respect to the Majesty of Japan. The races
-themselves, with the little shaggy horses, have proved to be a very
-fertile means of entertainment. The riding is done to a considerable
-extent by the little Japs, who take to it quite readily, and make very
-acceptable jockeys.
-
-[Illustration: “The dainty _kimono_-clad forms.”]
-
-One of the most delightful events in the social life of the foreign
-residents of Yokohama is Regatta Day. All their pent-up enthusiasm
-seems to let itself out, and the numerous visiting vessels contribute
-to a most entertaining scene. The contests take place in the spring,
-and preparations are made many days in advance. The vessels in the
-harbour are gayly decorated with flags and streamers; the wealthier
-classes turn out in their carriages, and the Bund is one mass of ladies
-and children in white dresses, intermingled by the dainty _kimono_-clad
-form of the Japanese. The hotel is impartially adorned with the colours
-of every nation, and the piazza is a varied scene of moving gayety.
-Every one does not attend the races behind the bluff, but Regatta
-Day is the one event of the season, and furnishes an excuse for
-considerably more than the nautical contests. The races themselves are
-perhaps not of sufficient importance to justify all this excitement,
-but Yokohama is very different from New York harbour. The day is bound
-to be clear, the sky is always of Italian deepness, and the sun never
-fails to shine down on the lively scene with a refreshing glow.
-
-Domestic life in Japan has its inconveniences; but it has also its
-more advantageous side. Do you wish to live in splendid style on a
-small income? You should dwell in the land where servants cost only
-four dollars a month. The life of the foreign residents in Japan is
-somewhat mysterious; the position of the mistress of the household
-eluded my investigations for a long time. “What do you do?” was a
-question I asked many of the ladies, but never received a satisfactory
-reply. After much thought I have come to the conclusion that the only
-thing your position requires of you is to sit in your parlour and amuse
-yourself as best you may; and when you wish anything done, simply clap
-your hands and cry “Boy.”
-
-This last word is the keynote to the situation. As soon as you
-have learned the word “Boy,” you have solved the whole problem of
-the European household in Japan. Everything centres around this
-important dignitary, whom even foreign innovation has not succeeded
-in abolishing. The “Boy” has edged his way into every foreign home
-in Japan, and his position is as firmly established as the homes
-themselves. He is one of the most indispensable domestic functionaries
-that have figured in history. But, in the first place, an excusable
-mistake must be corrected. The “Boy” is not a boy at all, but is
-simply called so in deference to custom. Most of the “Boys” have
-large families of their own, and I have seen many with white hair and
-wrinkled faces. He never seems to resent this youthful title, and
-would feel very much bewildered should you suddenly begin to call him
-“Man.” He appreciates his important position very keenly; he is no
-ordinary servant, but a man with thoughts of his own and the dignity of
-a household resting upon his shoulders.
-
-The whole thing is managed somewhat after this style: You receive an
-intimation that a few friends will dine with you, and this intimation
-is all about which you need trouble yourself. You never begin to think
-what you have to offer your guests, for you are not supposed to know
-anything about such things. You simply sit down, clap your hands and
-shout “Boy!” In a few moments the door will open and the person who
-bears this title presents himself. He approaches, bows lowly, and makes
-a single ejaculation,--
-
-“Heh!”
-
-This simply means that he is all attention. If you are inexperienced,
-you will get the idea that this word means “yes.” But you will have
-many opportunities later to correct your mistake. The Japanese says
-“Heh!” to signify that he is listening, and there his responsibility
-ends. He never commits himself.
-
-“I am going to have two friends to dinner,” you reply, and you give
-their names.
-
-“Heh!”
-
-He bows again, turns around, and leaves the room. That is all you have
-to do until the dinner hour arrives. Never make any suggestions; the
-“Boy” would be completely mystified by such a proceeding. The way he
-goes about everything is very picturesque. You understand that the man
-who has just made his exit is the head “Boy” or No. 1 “Boy.” He goes
-downstairs and begins to examine the possibilities for the dinner.
-Very likely he finds something lacking. If so, he immediately makes
-a call on No. 1 “Boy” next door, and returns with the supplementary
-dish needed to make the dinner a success. There exists a kind of
-free-masonry among the “Boys,” and what one cannot find in his own
-domain he feels no hesitation in borrowing from a friend near by.
-Your “Boy” then visits the “Boys” of the friends who are to dine
-with you and makes many interesting inquiries. He asks what their
-favourite wines are, and never hesitates to request a loan of their
-plate and linen. He usually also demands the cooks of your friends,
-and leads them off to your house in order that the dinner may be more
-satisfactorily prepared. Thus it happens that when your friends arrive
-they are very likely to eat your dinner cooked by their own servants
-and to see their own china and linen gracing your table. More than
-this, the “Boys” of your friends are usually present and attend to
-their wants. The order of things will be reversed when you dine out.
-
-You see this “Boy” is a very convenient and important person, and
-as he is usually an intelligent man, everything goes smoothly on.
-Occasionally a difficulty arises owing to the fact that he has not a
-sufficient regard for the mistress of the house, and indeed it is a
-question whether he ever looks upon her as such. Japan has not yet
-learned to rate women at their true worth, and it is this sentiment
-that is at the bottom of the “Boy’s” reluctance to take orders from
-anyone but a man. Most of them are gradually coming around and will
-obey you, but a few conservative souls still remain. I had a friend
-who possessed a very worthy “Boy,” whose character was blemished
-by this one defect. She told him one day to remove a plant into an
-adjoining room. He bowed, said “Heh!” and departed. Some hours passed,
-and the plant was still unmoved. He was called in again, again he
-bowed, ejaculated the usual “Heh!” and left the room. My friend tried
-this several times, and succeeded in getting more bows and more “Hehs!”
-but the plant remained where it had been. She spoke to her husband
-about the matter, who called in the “Boy” and told him to remove the
-object of the dispute. The “Boy” bowed, said “Heh!” took the plant and
-carried it into an adjoining room. When asked to explain his previous
-disobedience, he said: “I will do it if master wishes it, heh!” and
-with a profound obeisance he retired.
-
-Another great enemy to domestic life is what is known as the “Squeeze.”
-This is not peculiar to the household, but is found in every part of
-the Japanese social system. The whole business of the country is run
-on a commission. Every time you buy anything, you have to pay several
-“squeezes,” or commissions, to the various people concerned in the
-transaction. No “Boy” will run an errand without his “squeeze,” and
-he uses a great deal of liberty in your domestic accounts. Should you
-send him out to buy a bouquet of flowers, he would always charge you as
-well as the florist a “squeeze” in the reckoning. The butcher who deals
-with you has to pay him a certain amount, and of course you are the one
-who suffers in the end. This is altogether independent of the profit
-of the goods, and often is little more than a personal consideration.
-Foreigners have made war many times against the “squeeze,” but their
-efforts have been unsuccessful. It seems to be a second nature with
-the Japanese; it is one of those good old customs that they will not
-let die. I had an iconoclastic friend who resolved that there should
-be no “squeezes” to impede her domestic calculations, and who decided
-upon a reform. She thought that she would begin modestly at first, and
-hit upon the lamps to experiment on. There is a very humble person
-whose occupation it is to go from door to door and fill all the lamps
-of his customers, but his pay is not too small to necessitate a little
-“squeeze” to the head “Boy” for the privilege. The lady in question
-decided to hire this boy directly, and for a time she thought the plan
-was succeeding remarkably well. One day, however, she found that her
-head “Boy” had a pleasing custom of making a round of the lamps every
-morning and removing a certain quantity of the oil. By selling what
-he procured this way, he recovered the “squeeze” of which he had been
-defrauded.
-
-The specialising tendency of the people is another thing
-particularly irritating to those who live in Japan. Such a thing as
-a man-of-all-work who goes around picking up odd jobs is an unknown
-phenomenon. You must have a large number of servants or you will get
-nothing done. A certain “Boy” puts the coal in the stove and another
-cooks the dinner. But the “Boy” who does the cooking would never touch
-the coal, if you had a dozen guests waiting upstairs. It is a matter
-of caste, and one occupation is immeasurably superior to another; at
-least, in the opinion of him who practises it. You have a “Boy” who
-takes care of the horses, but he would not understand you at all should
-you ask him to drive them. If a light needs turning up, and you request
-your head “Boy” to do it, he would never think of obeying. He would
-rather run two blocks to fetch the menial whose duties are along that
-line. I was told a story of a lady on shipboard, who requested her
-attending “Boy” to close an open port-hole. He answered “Heh!” and went
-out to search for the servant who attended to such matters. It took him
-fifteen minutes to find him, but he finally led him triumphantly in,
-and the port-hole was closed. It had never occurred to the former that
-he ought to do it himself; he had not been educated to that position
-in society, and it would have grated harshly against his sense of
-the fitness of things to suggest that he was fully qualified to close
-port-holes. Every Japanese has a great pride in his task, knows his own
-place, and thinks that the greatest requirement of a virtuous life is
-that he does not interfere with the duties of others.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-SHOPPING.
-
-
-You will have many friends who will give you a great deal of kindly
-advice before you leave for Japan. On no point will their suggestions
-be as plentiful as on the mooted question of shopping. With a knowledge
-born of experience, they will inform you that these almond-eyed
-Orientals are not the guileless souls that they may seem, and that
-beneath all their gentleness of manners there lies a keen wit which
-will tax your American sharpness to the utmost. They may perhaps go
-further and descend to particulars, and you will have the opportunity
-of learning the number of tricks you will be subjected to and the
-large amount of wares that are being reserved until you land. All
-this advice you will carefully note, and think that when you start
-down the streets of Tokio or Yokohama you have an advantage over your
-compatriots, and that you are secure from the dangers of early shopping
-in a new country. You have all the words of your friend in mind, and
-decide to wait several days before you make a single purchase. At
-about this point of your self-congratulations you will catch sight
-of a small two-story building, and for some inconceivable reason be
-attracted within. Perhaps it is the dainty sign over the door; perhaps
-the smiling face of the host, who looks upon you with so inviting
-an air; perhaps the ever-attendant evil spirit of shopping that has
-begun to work his baneful spell. At any rate, in a short time you find
-yourself in a small room surrounded by a delightful collection of
-bric-à-brac, with a cup of tea in your hand and the happy face of the
-proprietor beaming down upon you. An hour or two slips by, and when you
-leave you will suddenly discover that you have ordered a large part of
-the merchant’s wares, and that you have a neat little bill smilingly
-presented to you. It is not until you are in the street again, or
-perhaps easefully reposing in your room at the hotel, that the whole
-terrible truth flashes upon you. You have done just what you were told
-not to do, and just what you had considered yourself firmly guarded
-against. A horrible suspicion crosses your mind. What if all those
-charming things you bought belonged to the worthless class your friend
-had so conscientiously warned you of; and what if the genial smile of
-the merchant were but the mask of a deceiving heart? In a day or two
-your suspicion will have been confirmed. The goods that you so rashly
-purchased will be given as a present to your attending “Boy,” and your
-shopping henceforth will become rather a scientific than an emotional
-affair.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The Japanese are rapidly learning the proper use to be made of
-tourists, and are always ready to receive them. You will not have been
-long in your room when a gentle knock will be heard at the door, and a
-most obsequious Oriental will make his entrance. He will bow with the
-utmost profoundness, and present you with a card which contains his
-name and crest,--usually in the form of a teacup or fan. You return his
-gaze as kindly as possible. He says: “Please you come see my shop,”
-makes another bow, and retires. The whole scene is not unpleasing to
-you, and you are thinking it over as an interesting experience when
-another knock is heard. Another Jap of the same appearance as your
-former visitor now enters, makes a similar bow, gives you his card,
-says: “Please you come see my shop,” and as gracefully takes his leave.
-If you are wise you will now determine to receive no more callers,
-for this sort of thing will be kept up all day, and you will have a
-varied assortment of cards before the evening comes. Your new friends
-are most scrupulously polite and have no air of bluster or eagerness;
-but they are quietly persistent, and would not think of passing you by
-without giving you a chance to learn of the advantages of their house.
-They keep a careful watch for the arrival of every new steamer, and
-trace all the passengers to the different hotels. The reputation of the
-American as the generous spender of millions is as firmly fixed in the
-minds of the Japanese as in those of less distant lands, and to them
-they give a large amount of attention.
-
-Indeed, it is generally assumed by everyone you meet that you have come
-to Japan to shop, and the kindest favour he can do you is to show you
-how and where you can do so with the best results. Even the humble
-coolie, who carries you around in your _jinrikisha_, firmly believes
-this, and thinks that if he is in a small measure the means of your
-making a happy purchase, his way into your affections is won. If you
-tell him in the morning that you wish to take a ride, he will tuck you
-comfortably in and start at a rapid pace towards the main thoroughfare
-of the city. You will be quietly enjoying everything you see, and will,
-perhaps, be somewhat surprised when the coolie suddenly stops before
-one of those two-story buildings with which you are now so familiar,
-and glances up into your face with the most self-congratulating
-expression. If you do not immediately descend and enter the shop, he
-will suddenly become crestfallen, and wear a look that means that
-you are quite unable to appreciate a favour, and do not know a good
-thing when you see it. The chances are, however, that you will feel an
-invisible force attracting you within the little shop, and so leave
-your coolie without, a happy man.
-
-If you are in Japan during a period of silver depression, you are a
-very unfortunate person indeed. You have perhaps visited the bank
-the day before and changed a thousand dollars of your gold into two
-thousand dollars of silver, and this unexpected increase in your
-worldly possessions is the very worst thing that could have happened to
-you. For you are likely to get the idea that you can now afford to be a
-little extravagant; that you have just twice as much money as you had
-before, and that you would be a very stingy person, did you not scatter
-a little of it about. You have probably, however, one advantage in the
-fact that you have shopped before, and do not think that there is much
-danger that the experience of a few days ago will be repeated. By this
-time your respect for your anxious friend, who so vainly gave you his
-advice, has greatly increased; and you decide that when you return you
-will make a point of breathing the same gentle counsel in the ears of
-all you meet who are on their way to the land of the cherry-blossom and
-the almond-eyed sharper.
-
-The street in which most of the shops are found has the delicious
-local flavour that seldom fails to entice the unwary purchaser. The
-thoroughfare is very narrow, and is lined by two rows of shed-like
-buildings adorned in front by hanging cloth signs. Many of these signs
-are inscribed with the name of the keeper, who does not confine
-himself to the Japanese characters, but frequently spells himself
-out in English,--a thing that you are likely to take as a personal
-compliment to yourself. The cloths are also sometimes covered with
-emblematic figures representative of the goods sold within. There are
-grotesque and unheard of birds; armour, and paintings representing
-the god of money and good luck. The lower story of the house is
-probably open to the street, but it is sometimes hidden by a curtain
-of blue and white, which an attendant lifts to allow you to enter.
-Really, there is nothing in all this that tells you of the treasures
-that lie beyond, but you have a sensation which for the time being
-seems uncontrollable. Sometimes, on a holiday, the whole scene may
-be changed, and by the addition of a large number of paper lanterns
-and clusters of wistaria and cherry-blossoms an element of festivity
-is introduced. But the grotesque methods of advertising that you are
-familiar with as an American, are unknown to the Japanese, and utterly
-distasteful to their sense of propriety. Even in the marking of prices
-they exercise the greatest taste, using little thin strips of cloth
-with the cost of the article painted in blue. This, however, you do not
-see until you enter the shop. The proprietor will receive you with the
-utmost politeness, but there is no sign of unpleasant aggressiveness
-in his behaviour. He views your visit both from a social and business
-point of view, and esteems your notice of him as a personal favour.
-Even though you do not buy, he always takes pleasure in showing what
-he has to sell. He likes to have you show some appreciation of his
-goods; and if you have done this, you can leave without buying a
-thing and be sure of as warm a welcome when you return. One demand he
-will make of you, and that is, that you take plenty of time. He likes
-to talk and discuss, and seems dissatisfied unless you consider the
-transaction as one of great importance and worthy of much meditation.
-The hurried visits that he sometimes receives from Americans, who rush
-in and wish to do everything in a few moments, utterly bewilder him.
-He is willing to spend a whole day with a single customer, and never
-shows any impatience except when you are in a hurry. He greets you
-with a profound bow, and smilingly places his shop at your disposal.
-He usually has one or two assistants who keep at a respectful distance
-until their services are required. The host is very quiet, and
-does not begin to praise everything in the room, but calmly calls
-your attention to each article, and relies upon your own good taste
-to see its virtues. His first floor is usually given up to a large
-display of ancient armour and swords, each piece with a history of
-its own, and speaking terrible tales of the good old fighting days
-of the Shoguns. There are grotesque and grinning masks that the most
-stoical temperament cannot gaze at without shuddering, and frequent
-representations of the Japanese conception of the Devil that make you
-suddenly turn your back and become interested in something of a less
-religious aspect. The weapons are what delight many a warlike spirit;
-Japan has always been famous for its steel, and many of these swords
-might make one think that the days of the famous blades of old had
-returned. All these are now, of course, as antique to the Japanese as
-to ourselves, for their usefulness, except as interesting curios, has
-been replaced by the more prosaic implements of modern warfare.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-If you are a woman you will not be likely to buy any of these articles
-of war, and you will find it a relief to escape the fiery eyes and
-low-hanging tongue of that mask in the corner. The proprietor calls
-your attention to a rickety staircase, and invites you to ascend
-into the second story. By so doing, you will soon find yourself in
-a little room which reveals altogether a different sight to the
-one below. You have left the domain of war and blood, and are now
-surrounded by suggestions of religion and art. There are Buddhas
-of every kind,--wooden, bronze, and gold; there are dainty little
-tea-pots, porcelains, candlesticks, and altar-pieces, to satisfy the
-most exacting taste; there are highly-polished mirrors gracing the
-walls, and another collection of swords, of a perhaps less warlike
-appearance than those below. The scene has graceful touches, for the
-small children of the family are huddled together on the floor, amusing
-themselves with such Japanese playthings as grasshoppers and crickets.
-These are their dolls, and they would never lay them aside for the
-less animated toys of the Western world. The wife of the proprietor is
-always at hand, who supplements the bows of her husband with dimpled
-smiles of her own, and who treats you with a respect that is not too
-distant to be friendly. She is sitting on the floor in front of a small
-_hibachi_. You have not been in the room long before you hear that
-little quiet steaming that you now know so well, and soon the little
-woman rises and, with a smile and bow, leaves the room.
-
-[Illustration: “The wife of the Proprietor.”]
-
-All this is very delightful, and it requires all your presence of
-mind and the recollections of a previous day’s experience to keep
-you from falling into a snare. You know very well that all these
-dazzling things about you have more glitter than gold, and that they
-are manufactured expressly for unknowing foreigners, such as you are
-assumed to be. You may be sure, that there are finer goods than these,
-kept carefully out of sight. The merchants never display their choicest
-wares on the shelves, but have them neatly tied up in boxes in an
-adjoining room. In some way you hint to your suave friend that you have
-shopped before, and are perfectly familiar with the peculiar tricks of
-the trade. All this he receives with an intelligent smile, and asks
-you to seat yourself. If you look around for a chair you will betray
-yourself as less experienced than you claim, so you had better drop at
-once on your heels; for by doing so, you will immediately gain a point
-in the good graces of your host.
-
-And now a delicate patter is heard on the stairs, and the little woman
-who left a few moments ago returns. She has a small tray full of cups
-and sweetmeats, which she deposits on the floor as she sits down in
-front of you. The proprietor joins the group, and occasionally one or
-two of the children forego their grasshoppers and crickets, and supply
-the sole element lacking to a very pretty domestic picture. The tea
-is now poured out; you are expected to drink several cups, else the
-shopping that is to follow would not be a success. The host says many
-pretty things, rejoices at the fact that you are an American, and
-thinks your country the crowning triumph of modern civilization. He
-trusts that your health is as good as your rosy cheeks and sparkling
-eyes would lead one to believe, and that nothing will happen to make
-your journey in Japan anything but one of the delightful memories of
-your after-life. Meanwhile you sip the pale drink, nibble at the cakes
-and candies, think your charming new friend not the crafty schemer you
-know him to be, and are almost led to believe that you have come not so
-much on business as for the sake of making a morning call.
-
-But now the host claps his hands, and an attendant appears from a
-rear room, bearing several neat-appearing boxes in his arms. The
-goods that you have come to buy are in these little square affairs,
-but you are almost as much interested in the boxes themselves as in
-what they contain. They are daintily made of light wood, and are not
-disfigured by the clumsy nails or cracks that do not annoy our less
-æsthetic merchant of the West. When the attendant begins to remove
-the wares your appreciation of the artistic shopkeeper increases,
-for everything is daintily wrapped up in cloth of alternate red and
-yellow sides. Japanese paper is of a much choicer kind than ours, but
-no self-respecting merchant would ever think of using it to cover his
-wares. You become very familiar with this yellow cloth before you
-leave the country, for it is as generally used as our less artistic
-substitute at home.
-
-Perhaps you know what you want and perhaps you don’t, but it will make
-no difference to the proprietor, who prefers that you take plenty of
-time. He says very little in praise of what he puts before you, though
-occasionally he will unaggressively remark on the particular qualities
-of an unusually charming article of bric-à-brac or roll of silk, or
-drop a word on the depth of colour and finish of a piece of gold
-lacquer; nor is he willing to let an occasional piece of Satsuma pass
-by without calling your attention to its delicate shade and crackle.
-
-This goes on for some time, until your eye alights on something that
-you must have, and then the most interesting feature of the performance
-begins; for a Japanese merchant is entirely out of harmony with the
-one-price system of the West, and would never think of asking the
-actual amount for which he will really sell his wares. He has his
-price, it is true, but this is only for those of small experience, and
-from others he seldom hopes to get more than one-third to one-half of
-what he asks. Never think, however, that you get the best of him, for
-there is always a limit below which he will never go. Friends of mine
-have reached this limit, and their most persistent efforts have never
-succeeded in making the shopkeeper less firm. They would drop into the
-shop morning after morning and renew their offer; the merchant would
-smile, but remain unshaken. If you stay very long in Japan you will
-become so accustomed to this haggling practice, that you will acquire a
-habit you will have difficulty in shaking off. When, after I returned
-home, a dry-goods-store clerk told me that the price of a certain
-article was fifteen dollars, I could hardly keep from replying, “I’ll
-give you ten.”
-
-“How much will you sell me this for?” you inquire at last, perhaps
-picking up a piece of delicate bric-à-brac, which in your fond
-imagination you already see gracefully reposing on your library table
-at home.
-
-The shopkeeper looks at it sharply with his little eyes for some time,
-then answers with a smile,--
-
-“Sixty _yen_.”
-
-Your hands go up in horror. “What?” you frantically exclaim; but the
-merchant answers you with another smile. Your emotion, however, is as
-feigned as the shopkeeper’s apparent firmness, for you know that it
-will be an easy matter to make him reduce the price,--the main question
-being whether your limit will be the same as his. The chances are that
-he will take just about one-third what he asks, and make a handsome
-profit then. So, you with the proper spirit decide to take him at an
-even lower figure and reply,--
-
-“I will give you fifteen.”
-
-The dejected air that suddenly spreads over his face is the kind of
-which a Japanese merchant is alone capable. He gives a great sigh and
-gazes at you with a look that seems to ask if you were born without
-a heart. His emotion is so great that he may even rise, walk around
-the shop, and examine several of his dearly beloved curios that have
-not been subjected to such outrageous treatment. He will soon return,
-however, and, with the humblest voice in the world and a sadly withered
-smile, announce his ultimatum,--
-
-“Will give for thirty _yen_.”
-
-You shake your head, push the rare object aside, and rise. You do not
-intend to go, but you begin to look at a different line of goods. The
-shopkeeper has not lost his politeness, and he takes the utmost pains
-in showing a large number of things that he knows you never intend to
-buy. During all this you and he occasionally cast furtive glances at
-the object of your disagreement, but neither one for a long time makes
-any allusion to it. Finally, the moment comes for you to go, but you
-decide to make one more attempt, which you know will be effectual.
-Picking up the dainty bronze, you say in an off-hand manner that you
-will give him twenty _yen_.
-
-He looks at you sadly, and then again at the object in your hands.
-He casts his eyes at the ceiling, bestows a glance upon his innocent
-children playing with grasshoppers and crickets, all unaware that they
-are being defrauded of an inheritance, makes the bow of humiliation,
-and says with a short gasp,--
-
-“I am resigned.”
-
-After he has expressed his emotions in this unvarying phrase, his
-spirits seem once more to return. He smiles again in his old way, and
-his bows have the old obsequiousness. He even gives you another cup of
-tea, and in other ways betrays the secret satisfaction that he feels
-on having made a very good bargain. He follows you down the stairs to
-the awaiting _jinrikisha_ and bids you farewell with the most touching
-“_Sayonara_” that you have yet heard. As you slowly ride away, the last
-thing you see is his bowing form in the door, and you give a sigh at
-the thought that all this display of friendship is but owing to the
-fact that you have probably paid twice what you should for the dainty
-bronze statue that is to adorn your library at home.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-OUR DINNER AT KIOTO.
-
-
-Of course, it could hardly be expected that our dinner would be
-Japanese in all its features, but it was not only our embarrassment at
-our surroundings that prevented it from being so. The appearance of
-our host himself in side-whiskers was enough to give an un-oriental
-air to the ceremony, and clearly indicated the peculiar mixture of the
-East and West of which his character presents a striking example. For
-he had visited extensively in America, where he had performed high
-diplomatic functions and carried back many of our traits, not the least
-evident of which were the whiskers above referred to. It was also
-unnecessary to use an interpreter when talking with him, as he spoke
-our language easily and well. As far as politeness went, however, he
-was entirely Japanese. I have an indefinite recollection of him as an
-embodiment of smiles and bows; his manners were perfect, his voice was
-of unusual sweetness. He had a keen mind and kept a watchful eye on
-us during the evening, in order that the strangeness of our situation
-should add rather a feeling of pleasantness than of discomfort.
-
-He was a man far advanced in the ideas of new Japan, and he had gone
-so far as to adopt the European costume. But this evening he had cast
-it aside and appeared in all the splendor of a Japanese host. After we
-had travelled under the direction of a little _musmee_ with a lighted
-candle, through a long, arched lane, we suddenly found ourselves before
-a small house and heard the most un-oriental of all words: “Good
-evening.” We looked up, and there stood our host between two wicker
-panels which he had thrust aside, with his handsome face smiling the
-most cordial of welcomes. He wore the conventional divided skirt, and
-over this a _kimono_ of dark grey, caught together in front with a
-cord. His foot-gear was the customary sandals, which, however, he did
-not wear during the evening. Of course he did not have his wife with
-him, for even his progressive spirit had not reached the point where
-he could allow any feminine supervision of his feast. The hostess is
-unknown in Japan, where domesticity does not play the part it should.
-We had another proof of this in the invitations we received, which did
-not invite us to our host’s house, but to one of the swell restaurants
-of Kioto. For a Japanese to entertain at his own house would be a
-social barbarism.
-
-The length of the Major--one of our party--was often inconvenient in
-Japan, and I saw him casting troubled glances at the house before which
-we found ourselves. It was very small, and when we finally entered
-he found it necessary to stoop in order to get in at all. We did not
-gain an entrance immediately, for we found an obstacle in our way in
-the form of the little _musmee_ who had conducted us thither. Before
-starting, the two ladies of the party had debated for a long time
-what foot-gear they should wear, being faced by the American extreme
-of shoes and the Japanese extreme of stocking feet. They congratulated
-themselves that they had hit upon a happy solution, by wearing their
-party slippers; but when they arrived they found that they had
-miscalculated. As they stepped upon the platform and were about to
-enter the room, the little _musmee’s_ hands went up in horror.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-We can only appreciate her feelings by imagining our own, should one
-of our callers elevate his feet upon the parlor furniture. Should
-they desecrate her spotless white mats with their barbarous American
-slippers? Our poor host had his hands full, trying to pacify the little
-enraged body, and at the same time to act towards us as though this
-outburst was one of the regularly-planned features of the dinner. His
-ever present smiles were still more in requisition, and he could not
-bow enough in his endeavour to make us feel at ease. Suddenly, there
-came a calm; the little maid withdrew, and we were bidden in a most
-polite way to enter. The offended girl, however, sulked away like an
-angry child, and I am convinced that if we made any enemies in our
-trips in Japan, the little _musmee_ at this restaurant was one of them.
-
-This was the first Japanese house I had ever been in, and naturally
-I was interested to see what it was like. It was oriental in every
-way, though by no means an example of oriental splendor. At one end
-there was a platform on which incense was burning, and the walls were
-entirely bare but for two paper _kakemonos_. The floor was covered
-with white matting, on which were placed black velvet cushions.
-These were our seats for the dinner, and each of us was supplied, in
-addition, with a black lacquered candlestick. For some time we stood
-there waiting for the host to begin, but as we afterwards learned,
-it is customary at Japanese social functions for that dignitary to
-follow. He smilingly requested us to be seated as quietly as though
-he was bidding us to four hours in Paradise, and not to the physical
-discomfort--almost torture--that it proved to be. The ladies seated
-themselves with little trouble, but things did not go so well with
-the poor Major. His legs formed a large part of a body that measured
-considerably over six feet, and as those six feet had to be disposed of
-picturesquely in a sitting posture, you will see that we had almost a
-tragedy on hand. The Major made several spasmodic attempts, and finally
-threw himself down in a lifeless heap in a way that furnished our host
-new cause for smiles and bows.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-For all this the scene in which we found ourselves had its romantic
-side. It was early in the evening of a beautiful night in April, the
-Japanese June. The wicker panels of the house were thrown open, and the
-warm air came through, scented with the perfume of the cherry-blossoms
-and bearing delicate sounds from the garden without. We could see
-the stars from where we sat, and they had that warm, melting lustre
-that one sometimes sees at home, but which is characteristic of an
-oriental night. In front of the house was one of those famous miniature
-gardens that embody the dainty Japanese taste. A small, sparkling lake
-was bordered by the sacred cherry-trees, which were in full bloom; a
-passing breeze had blown many of the blossoms upon the surface of the
-water. The shores were covered with dwarf trees and a few sprays of
-pansies. All of this we could clearly see, for the moon gleamed down
-upon the scene with just enough brightness to render all distinct
-without removing any of the enchantment. From the distance we could
-hear the faint tinkling of a waterfall. Even the Major’s uncomfortable
-state of body could not prevent him from catching the poetic flavour
-of all this. But there was more romance ahead. We all felt a
-disappointment when our host dropped the oriental manner of salutation
-and simply bowed profoundly; but now we were soon to have Eastern
-respect at its fullest. Two _musmees_ entered, and, falling on their
-hands and knees, touched their flower-bedecked heads to the floor. In
-this respectful attitude they remained before us for some seconds,
-while we wondered whether the occasion demanded any action on our part,
-when, suddenly, they rose and presented us with handleless cups full of
-tea--for every dinner in Japan begins with tea. I looked at the host
-in despair. “Ah! I will explain,” he said, with a laugh, and he did
-so. This is the way you do it: you place the cup in the palms of both
-hands, twist the fingers into a supporting position (I do not yet fully
-understand it), and drink between the thumbs. If you are well-enough
-bred, you will do this with the utmost ease; but if you are not, you
-may land the tea in your lap, break the china cup, and be put down as
-an extremely low person. Of course, the fact that we were foreigners
-warded off any harsh judgment; and besides, I really believe we all of
-us did manage somehow to get through the crisis in a way that was not
-entirely disgraceful.
-
-Japanese æstheticism extends to their dinners, which are extremely
-graceful affairs. Our host, for example, had divided this dinner
-into four parts, each typical of a season of the year. In this was
-a hidden compliment; he intended thus to express his regret that
-we were unable to spend the whole year in Kioto, and his hopes that
-this evening’s pleasure would offer as good a substitute as possible.
-And in spite of our uncomfortable attitudes and the strangeness of
-many of the dishes placed before us, I do not think he was entirely
-unsuccessful. Not the least pleasant part of the dinner, for example,
-was that which immediately followed the tea drinking. We had hardly
-handed the cups back to the _musmees_, when they gave to each of us a
-beautiful wicker basket filled with flowers,--that, at least, is what
-we thought they were, until we discovered that they were without smell.
-In fact, it took us some time to find out that they were not flowers
-at all, but most exquisite candy imitations. They were more than
-confectionery--they were true works of art.
-
-But there were other surprises in store for us. As we sat admiring
-these delicate creations, the doors at the rear suddenly opened, and a
-living wave of colour came fluttering in. At first we could distinguish
-nothing but a flock of miniature bats, storks, and other creatures
-which figure exclusively in Japanese natural history, disporting
-themselves among dainty representations of purple violets, dandelions,
-and white and pink cherry-blossoms. After recovering from our first
-surprise we saw that these were small pieces of embroidery on a
-background of pale greys and shaded blues, and then we caught sight of
-waving loops of hair in which were intertwined sprays of flowers and
-fancy pins. This delicate yet somewhat confused mass drew nearer, and
-we saw five little faces painted entirely white with the exception of
-clearly-defined spots of red under the eyes and lips, that were made
-particularly small by a skilful handling of the brush. We could but
-ejaculate one word: “_Geisha!_” These were the famous dancing girls
-of Japan, who lead, I fear, not too happy lives in furnishing much
-of the enjoyment of Japanese social life. It is only ordinary people
-who frequent the theatre in this country, and it falls upon these
-little creatures to furnish the higher classes a large part of their
-amusement. They dance, they sing, they joke, act as waiters, and are
-generally expected to supply the element of gaiety without which no
-dinner can be thought complete.
-
-The Japanese do not walk, they flutter; they do not sit down, they
-sink. Each of these delicate bits of humanity bearing a small
-lacquered tray sank down before the guest she was to serve. They were
-continually laughing and chattering among themselves, making naive
-criticisms of our costumes and of ourselves--for the _geishas_ are
-given a great deal of freedom. They were particularly inquisitive
-about the ladies’ dresses, and even went so far as to ask, through
-the interpreter, the cost of them. They also were anxious to know
-whether the Americans made them themselves, and how long it took. These
-materialistic thoughts changed when they caught sight of the ladies’
-diamonds, which they romantically imagined to have grown on trees. They
-made endless remarks about us which we did not understand, and from the
-interpreter’s unwillingness to translate many of their speeches, I am
-sure the little fault-finders saw much in us to criticise.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-And now the dinner began in earnest. By our sides we discovered
-mysterious packages done up in paper, which we were horrified to
-find contained chop-sticks. This was worse than drinking tea between
-your thumbs. It was my first experience with these utensils, and I
-hardly thought myself in a well-chosen place to learn their mysterious
-qualities. I was greatly surprised, however, to find that it was not
-so difficult as it looked, and that chop-sticks, after all, are
-not the impossible things the untutored suppose. We had a hard dish
-to begin on; for after we had got our chop-sticks in battle array,
-the _geishas_ startled us by bringing in soup. More smiles from the
-host, and more explanations. All you have to do is to eat the solid
-part with the chop-sticks and drink the liquid as you drink tea. The
-soup was politely christened “Congratulatory,” and was made of green
-turtle, which is popularly supposed to live a thousand years--another
-compliment for us. And now that I have begun the menu, I may as
-well say that the succeeding dishes included fish and eels, and an
-unprecedented number of soups, cooked _à la Japonaise_, particularly
-one made of seaweeds, in which their taste was by no means concealed.
-And there were wines, _bomei_, which the Japanese regard as a kind of
-medicine to prepare the stomach for the food, and _saki_, the national
-drink, not dissimilar in appearance and taste to a pale, dry sherry.
-
-At this point we were surprised by the arrival of another guest. He
-had been invited to meet us as a friend of our host, but for some
-reason had been detained and had sent his excuses. He was clad in the
-same costume as our host and had also adopted the occidental whiskers,
-though his were grey. He was not sufficiently Europeanised, however,
-to omit the Japanese salutation, and consequently prostrated himself
-“on all fours” before us. He further mystified our minds by presenting
-each of our party with his card. We looked at our host in despair, who
-explained that it was customary on such occasions to exchange cards.
-But we had failed to bring any along, and therefore had to apologise
-ourselves out of the difficulty as best we could. Of course, our
-excuses met with the customary smiles.
-
-“We hope you will be able to visit our country sometime,” one of us had
-inspiration enough to say through the interpreter the new arrival had
-brought with him.
-
-“I have been there already,” he replied.
-
-“And how did he like it?”
-
-“It is a very beautiful country, and I hope to go back again sometime.”
-
-Though the conversation was satisfactory, the inconvenience always
-occasioned by the use of an interpreter prevented it from being very
-lively. The next remark I remember was from the Major, and was not of
-so suave a kind.
-
-“Say, if I have to sit here much longer, I shall never be able to use
-my legs again.”
-
-All the evening he had been attempting to gain relief by a constant
-change of position, but his efforts did not seem to have been
-successful. We all of us were somewhat tired, but the Major had a great
-deal more to be tired than we. He had to compose himself, however, for
-one of the most distinctive features of the dinner.
-
-There was a slight pause after his remark, and we began casting glances
-at one another and wondering what was to come next. The pause at an
-American dinner we should consider an awkward one, but our host did
-not seem to entertain any such idea. Suddenly we heard two snaps
-that apparently came from stringed instruments, and at the same time
-the panels in a rear room were drawn aside. We were taken somewhat
-by surprise, for we were not acquainted with the fact that a small
-theatrical performance is one of the usual accompaniments of a Japanese
-dinner.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Two of the _geishas_ began to play on the _samisen_, the Japanese
-banjo, and the _koto_, a kind of elongated harp, picked with ivory
-tips. At the same time one of the girls came out in the centre of the
-room, and we had our first sight of Japanese dancing. While she went
-through the movements of the “Reign of Spring,” the two girls with
-the instruments began singing in that falsetto key which it takes an
-educated taste to appreciate. They sing so shrilly and the notes they
-strike are so unnatural, that it becomes a very painful exercise, and
-will frequently bring tears to the performer’s eyes. And how about
-the dancing? One who is accustomed to the serpentine mazes of our
-occidental skirt dancers and who likes that sort of thing, may find it
-hard to enter into the spirit of her Japanese contemporaries; but if
-you delight in gracefulness in any form, these little _geishas_ cannot
-fail to please. Their costume plays an important part in the series of
-posturings that makes up the dance, and no small amount of the success
-achieved depends on the proper manipulation of the fan. You can get
-the best idea of what it is like, by imagining a succession of dainty
-tableaux in which the changes are made before your eyes.
-
-After sitting in a Japanese posture on American legs for four hours
-at a stretch, it was with some difficulty that we finally arose and
-prepared to leave. As we went out into the night we were followed by
-a veritable chorus of “_Sayonara_,” which is the Japanese word for
-“good-bye.” We were somewhat surprised to be followed by the little
-_musmees_, bringing as gifts, neatly tied up in boxes, that portion of
-the dinner we had not eaten. There is something delightfully original
-in that idea. The smiles and bows of our host were succeeded by
-those of his friend, whom he had sent to escort us safely home. His
-courtesies did not stop here, for he called on us the next morning to
-thank us for the honour we had done him in accepting his invitation to
-dine,--a notable expression of the refinement of Japanese politeness.
-
-The night had grown still more beautiful during the four hours we had
-spent within, and we caught many interesting glimpses of local colour
-on our way to the hotel. The air was warm, the sky clear, and the
-brilliantly-lighted parks were filled by proud Japanese fathers and
-mothers with their prattling children. Men and women were stopping
-under the cherry-trees that were in full bloom, gazing upon the sacred
-blossoms that have been dear to Japanese hearts for so many centuries.
-We went by one of the temples, standing on a hill, the approach
-marked by a succession of bright red gateways. Under the light of the
-moon, this ancient structure, which for ages has been the heaven of
-aspiration and love for so many hopeful spirits of this land, had an
-air of the utmost impressiveness. The whole scene made us forget that
-we had been sitting for four hours on our heels, and called to our
-minds the fact that we had had one of the most enjoyable experiences of
-our lives.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-MIYAKO ODORI.
-
-
-We suddenly found ourselves before the entrance to an unfamiliar
-by-street, and turned to our guide to inquire the meaning of what we
-saw. The huge red lanterns hanging in a perpendicular row from two
-high poles, evidently had a significance about which we were in the
-dark, and the exhibition of haste, which we observed on the part of
-these leisurely Orientals, surely was inspired by no everyday event.
-The girls were looking their prettiest with their hair filled with
-flowers and their pale grey _kimonos_ tied with that magical sash-knot,
-which is the despair of their Western sisters. Along with them trotted
-their smaller brothers in bright-coloured flowing robes, their little
-heads cropped close with the exception of a solitary tuft. Fathers and
-mothers of sedater age and deportment displayed an eagerness that was
-equally strong, if more quietly marked.
-
-Our attending coolie informed us that we had hit upon a festival that
-has particular attractions to the foreign eye. You have probably heard
-of those sacred cherry-blossoms that are so dear to the hearts of the
-Japanese, and which, with the chrysanthemum, are their chief floral
-pride. It is true that meddling foreigners have said that they are
-not cherry-blossoms at all; but that does not seem to prevent the
-delicate mingling of pink and white from being a very beautiful flower.
-It is in the month of April that they are to be seen at their best,
-and it is then that this æsthetic people assemble in different ways,
-and touchingly illustrate the part that these flowers play in their
-lives,--for the Japanese without their cherry-blossoms would not be
-the Japanese at all. When, therefore, the coolie informed us that all
-these people were on their way to see the famous cherry-blossom dance,
-we lost no time in mingling with the throng and following it down the
-lane-like street.
-
-Everything here was a maze of Japanese forms clad in their daintiest
-robes, and Japanese faces flushed with eagerness and anticipation.
-Though æsthetic before everything else, the people have a keen eye for
-business, and the street was lined with booths full of knicknacks and
-toys of every kind. And here also were whole families picturesquely
-seated on their heels, sipping the everlasting tea. Pushing our way
-through the crowd, we drew up before a platform-like entrance, and
-were immediately met by one of the attendants, who presented us each
-with a pair of enormous white duck shoes. If you travel long in
-Japan, you will become accustomed to this sort of thing, and cease
-from experiencing any embarrassment or indignation at being requested
-to remove your foot-gear before stepping on a Japanese floor. The
-irreverent foreigner, however, unaccustomed to walking around in
-stocking feet, does not always see things from the Japanese point of
-view, and it has therefore been necessary at the temples and places of
-public amusement to have a stock of these ungainly foot-coverings
-for his benefit. The measure, of course, is a conciliatory one, and is
-intended to smooth the ruffled feelings of the Westerner without at the
-same time scandalising the sensibilities of the Japanese. We had had
-many similar experiences, and so lost no time in incasing our feet in a
-manner that would insure us entrance into the theatre, even though it
-might detract a little from our dignity.
-
-[Illustration: Japanese Forms clad in their Daintiest Robes.]
-
-In the small lobby in which we found ourselves were a number of
-Japanese enjoying the national attitude of repose, and quietly waiting
-for something to turn up. The other end of the room was occupied by
-a counter on which was displayed a large collection of fans made of
-artificial cherry-blossoms, similar to those that were afterwards
-used in the dance. These are exhibited in a large measure for the
-benefit of the foreigner, who is expected to make generous purchases.
-All the while we could hear notes of that unmistakable Japanese music
-coming from beyond a small wooden door, mingled with weird voices
-and unclassifiable sounds. We began to fear that the dance had begun
-before our arrival, and that we might miss the best part of the show.
-We signified our wish to enter by pounding on the small door; but it
-was securely locked, and those on the other side treated our emphatic
-demands with oriental disdain. As we had paid our admission fee, we
-began to get indignant at this kind of treatment; but it is better not
-to get indignant at such things in Japan. Besides, the explanation
-was quite satisfactory, as one of the attendants told us that it was
-a fixed rule never to interrupt the performance by the entrance of
-new spectators, and, therefore, any one who came late must wait until
-all was finished. We were pacified when we learned that the dance was
-now nearly over and would shortly be repeated, and that we would lose
-nothing by waiting. But we were not the only ones who were impatient.
-There was one little Jap accompanied by his mother, who, after a
-careful search finally succeeded in discovering a small crack near the
-floor, to which he applied his eye in much the same fashion that his
-penniless occidental cousin watches the progress of a game of baseball;
-and evidently with the same emotions, if the glances of delight which
-he occasionally threw towards his mother might serve as indications.
-
-Suddenly the music ceased, and the crowd began to push in. Japanese
-crowds are particularly noted for their good nature, and our progress
-into the theatre was the occasion of many sprightly jokes from the
-local wits, which were evidently very good, for they were received with
-bursts of laughter. We soon found ourselves in a front seat of a small
-gallery, with a three-sided stage before us. This gallery was reserved
-for those from over the seas and for those of the higher classes of
-Japan. Below in the pit sat those of humbler station, making themselves
-as comfortable as possible with their cushions spread out on the floor.
-Spectators who had already seen the performance were leaving the
-theatre from the two entrances under either end of the gallery, but the
-eager crowd from without was rapidly filling their places. The faces
-seemed the same that we had parted with a few minutes before, and they
-had the same appearance of expectant happiness. Here and there was a
-father and mother, followed by five or six wee ones, hurriedly rushing
-around to find the most convenient place. Apparently satisfied, they
-would finally sit down, begin to chatter and laugh, until suddenly
-one would notice what he thought a more advantageous place, when up
-they would all scramble again and hurry on in fear that some one might
-forestall them. It sometimes took more than two trials before they were
-satisfied, and so, while we were waiting for the curtain to rise, the
-gay mass below us was constantly changing about in the eagerness of the
-spectators to gain as comprehensive a view of the stage as possible.
-Each little group was provided with that indispensable adjunct to
-happiness,--the tobacco-box. The occasion meant far more to them than
-what took place on the stage; it was a general holiday, and they were
-there to get as much out of it as possible. There was a continual
-buzz as the conversation went on, and occasionally from some animated
-group there would rise a loud shout of laughter, whence we could infer
-that an oriental funny man had made another appreciated hit. Indeed,
-the sight below us was so interesting and brought us so in touch with
-the people themselves, that we almost forgot that there was a more
-pretentious display to follow, and gazed at the curtain before us in
-total disregard of the glories that lay beyond.
-
-Suddenly our attention was aroused by the loud clapping together of
-two pieces of wood; and as suddenly every chattering tongue quietly
-ceased, and every laughing face assumed an expression of the utmost
-interest. It was the Japanese substitute for the prompter’s bell. The
-curtain obediently rose, and we settled ourselves for the enjoyment
-of an oriental performance. Even at the beginning we could see that
-the Japanese prefer to manage these things in a way of their own, for
-the orchestra with them is not a mere incident of the performance
-with which to appease the impatience of the audience between the acts
-or to drown the weak portions of a faltering tenor’s solo. In Japan
-the orchestra is kept behind the curtain as the chief performer, and
-comes in as generously for its share of applause. The first thing that
-caught our gaze, therefore, were two rows of _geishas_, picturesquely
-ranged on either side of the stage, with _koto_ and drums ready for the
-opening overture. They were all painted and plastered after the usual
-_geisha_ style, their little red and white faces surmounted by towering
-head-dresses of the ever-present cherry-blossom and wistaria. Dainty
-is a word that one constantly finds one’s self using while speaking
-of the _geisha_, and none other seems to serve the purpose so well.
-Those on the left, in their bright _kimonos_, with their little drums
-shaped like hour-glasses, were in the full daintiness of _geisha_ life,
-while those picking the _koto_ opposite, though still very young,
-could not but bring the pathetic thought that that strange life is
-a brief one. The whole audience observed the strictest silence all
-through the opening selection, which was not without its charms, even
-to unaccustomed ears. Occasionally a small shrill voice would be heard
-above the steady thrumming of the instruments, and though this could
-not perhaps be called singing, it had charms for those receptive souls
-in the pit.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-But in the mean while our attention had been attracted to the stage.
-It had been prettily arranged as a garden scene, in a way far more
-realistic and beautiful than the painted trees and urns which pass for
-such in our own theatres. Here we had a profusion of cherry-blossoms
-to serve as a background to the equally pretty and delicate girls, who
-now began to enter from the two doors that had been previously used by
-the spectators. They were in two files, one in which pale blue and pink
-predominated, while the _kimonos_ of the others were of bright red.
-The faces and headgear had been arranged in the same way as those of
-the musicians, and each held in her hand a cherry-blossom fan. Their
-entering motion was very slow, consisting of a step forward and a step
-backward, the time of the music being scrupulously observed. In this
-way they proceeded up the middle of the stage, where they parted and
-formed in line on the sides, meeting again in the centre. They were now
-ready for the dance to begin.
-
-The word “dancing,” in its western interpretation, can hardly be
-applied to the graceful body-motions which satisfy the more subdued
-taste of the Japanese. The nearest thing that our stage can offer for
-comparison is the march, more spectacular than artistic, in which
-glistening helmets and emblazoned shields and swords play so large
-a part. In place of the knightly helmet these Japanese use their
-cherry-blossom head-dresses to good effect, while their less aspiring
-minds are satisfied with a fan instead of a sword. They have large
-flowing sleeves which they are constantly waving with a motion not too
-slow to be picturesque, and they can bend their little bodies in a way
-that their Western rivals have yet to learn. They toss their heads
-backwards and forwards in a very graceful and captivating way, and
-make any number of gesticulations with their sleeves, holding them in
-all conceivable positions in front of the face, back of the head, or
-stretching them out at arm’s length as a bat does its wings. At times
-the marching and counter-marching becomes delightfully confusing, the
-stage being a mass of slowly-waving colour, from the midst of which a
-large number of cherry-blossomed crests can be seen and an occasional
-smiling white-plastered face. The dancers do not show the slightest
-traces of fatigue, and when the curtain is rung, or to be more precise,
-clapped down at the conclusion of this first act, they seem as fresh as
-when it began, and a little disappointed that they are obliged to pause
-for a short time.
-
-Another clap, and up went the curtain again. The scene-shifters had
-been working hard during the interval, and produced a charming change
-for the second act. We thought at first that we were to have an
-oriental version of a well-known scene of Italian love-making, for
-here was a Japanese house with bow-windows and balconies that would
-have delighted the eye of the most fastidious Romeo. But there were
-only Juliets in this play, and they made, after all, a satisfactory
-use of the windows and piazza, though they relied simply upon their
-own charms for their success. Now one tiny form would appear in a
-window, now one would step upon a balcony, and another somewhere amid
-the trees would smilingly gaze upon her sister above. There were no
-carefully memorised speeches of blank verse, but the scene was full of
-that clever _geisha_ sentiment that can be so charming. Each little
-actor became her own poet, yet there was no need of words to make us
-feel the happy spirit of romance inspiring her unrestrained heart.
-The atmosphere of gayety was not confined to the stage but found its
-way into the delighted souls in the pit, and scarcely had the curtain
-descended when they seemed to feel it their duty to give a performance
-of their own. The children began to run about, pull each other by
-the sleeves, roll around on the floor,--all to the accompaniment of
-ceaseless tittering and all with the utmost good nature. A wrestling
-match formed the diversion of one group gathered around two diminutive
-athletes of local reputation, who were tugging savagely at each other
-with the utmost disregard of usual athletic rules. The pit was not
-without gymnasts of its own, who turned somersaults and handsprings
-in a way that must have shocked the more refined taste of the gliding
-_geishas_. While all this was going on, the more dignified members
-of the family were sitting on their heels, smoking their pipes in a
-stately manner, and occasionally bringing forth materials for a light
-lunch. This would have a greater attraction than the trials of athletic
-skill, and even one or two of the most successful turners of the
-somersault made a pause in their gyrations to watch the progress of the
-meal.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-My attention was so occupied by the busy throng below, that it was
-not until I felt a gentle tug at my elbow that I was aware that I had
-a visitor at hand. I turned and saw a smiling white-plastered face,
-surmounted by tall sprays of cherry-blossoms, gazing up into mine. It
-was one of the _geishas_, who had left the stage and who had quickly
-selected a foreigner on whom to bestow her favours. And yet, I like to
-think her attentions were not merely of a perfunctory kind, and that
-she was drawn towards me for other reasons than because it was the way
-in which she had been trained. Her actions surely had not an artificial
-air, and the continued smiles which she showered upon me seemed to be
-sincere. She did not feel the least embarrassment, and kept talking on
-in her sweet little voice as though I understood everything that she
-said. And a great deal of it was perfectly plain. When, for example,
-she glanced up into my eyes in such a meaning way and let drop a few
-dulcet words, could my woman’s nature refuse to understand the little
-flatterer? She was amused by the ornaments on my hat, and smoothed my
-hair in a most caressing manner. When she tired of this, she called my
-attention to a small tray at my side, which I had not noticed before.
-From this she took a cup of tea in her delicate little hands and
-offered it to me. I drank it with the utmost readiness, and did not
-stop to think that it was the bitterest thing that had ever passed my
-lips. This was the real object of her visit, and with another smile
-she gathered up her tray and passed on. I gave a sigh as I saw her go
-through the same thing with another lady not far away, and apparently
-with the same sincerity and feeling. With an equal tenderness would she
-clasp her hands, and--crushing stroke to feminine vanity--gaze into her
-eyes with the same admiration as she had into mine.
-
-And now, for the first time, I noticed that there were several
-_geishas_ in the back part of the gallery engaged in making the bitter
-potion I had tasted under such romantic circumstances. This is no
-every-day occurrence, and it has a long history that gives it a far
-from vulgar interest. Perhaps you think that our “teas” are of native
-origin, and that they are an invention of modern times; but you are
-mistaken. In the sixteenth century there lived a mighty man in Japan,
-named Hideyoshi, and he it is who must bear the burden of those social
-functions about which the men say so many unkind things. For in his
-effort to lighten the cares of state and lessen the tedium of his life,
-Hideyoshi, after much careful thought, decided on the following plan.
-He gathered to himself several of the choicest spirits of the realm,
-to whom conversation was a developed art and wit a perennially flowing
-spring, and said: “I hereby establish an entirely new form of social
-diversion to be known as ‘tea.’ In so doing, I have a careful eye on
-those who shall follow, and particularly those of other lands, who
-shall shower their blessings upon me to the end of time. So come, my
-friends, gather around, and in the words of an unborn poet: giggle,
-gobble, gabble, and git.” Probably this last allusion was a mere
-pleasantry on his part, and had reference to the degenerate forms
-in which we should receive the ceremony. Hideyoshi had no feminine
-hands to assist him,--Japan at that period of its history not kindly
-favouring budding _débutantes_. He went about it himself in this way.
-He took a piece of purple silk and carefully cleaned each article to be
-used, folding and refolding the fabric in a most deliberate manner. He
-then heated a bowl with hot water and placed in it a spoonful of the
-green powder that the Japanese call tea. Nothing remained but to put in
-the boiling water and to serve the bitter result. With a most profound
-bow he passed this around to his guests, giving each at the same
-time a small cake with a taste rather suggestive of dry ginger. The
-affair was a great success, and was taken up with readily by the most
-exclusive sets of Japan, and passed into modern times. It is called the
-“_cha-no-yu_,” and the Japanese regard it with a reverence that makes
-it almost sacred.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The day was now drawing to a close, and the theatre was gradually
-becoming dark. The informality of the performance was continued at
-the next rise of the curtain, when the scene-shifters came out and
-prepared to arrange things for the last act. They were not visible
-to the spectator, however, because they had on black gowns and black
-masks,--and because the Japanese have a very lively imagination. But
-to us, not so happily endowed, these men’s sombre costumes did not
-prevent them from being seen, and we watched them with considerable
-amusement and interest as they solemnly went around, preparing the
-stage for the finale. Everything was darkened, and when the _geishas_
-again appeared, they each held a candle in one hand and a spray of
-cherry-blossoms in the other. Enormous clusters of this flower seemed
-to fall from the wings in one mass, barely leaving room beneath for
-the little girls to go through the concluding steps. The dance that
-followed was even slower than the former, and was accompanied by a
-still weirder music, the finest we had yet heard in Japan. Everything
-had an air of strangeness and unreality, and we felt indeed that we
-were in a different atmosphere than that in which we had spent our
-lives. Slowly the brightly-clad _geishas_ moved around the stage, the
-white blossoms gracefully waving in the air, and still more weirdly
-rose the threatening tones of the _koto_.
-
-We were aroused from our enchantment by the gradual descent of
-the curtain. The spectators for the next performance were already
-entering, the conversational jabber once more began, and to the
-accompaniment of the same laughing voices and probably the same jokes,
-we made our way to the street.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-THE RISE AND FALL OF THE _KAKEMONO_.
-
-
-It was our last night in Kioto. We had spent the day in the temples,
-and though we were somewhat tired, we still managed to keep up a
-desultory conversation upon the interesting things we had seen.
-Suddenly we were interrupted by a shy knock. Before any one had time
-to prevent it, a handsome Japanese face thrust itself through the
-gradually opening door; it was immediately followed by the handsome
-figure of a young man. Perhaps it was because of the good looks that
-the intrusion was not resented. The new-comer possessed large brown
-eyes, bushy black hair, and beautiful white teeth, and in addition to
-this spoke English.
-
-“Can look see some of goods. Have very beautiful things.”
-
-This is the way they teach it--or, at least, learn it--at the mission
-schools.
-
-The speaker continued: Would Madame be so kind as to glance at the
-charming wares at present gracefully reposing in a pack on his
-shoulders? They were something out of the usual run, and he had brought
-them especially for her inspection. To tell the truth, Madame was very
-tired, and murmured an objection; but a beautiful face has always
-touched her artistic sensibilities, and here was one of the finest
-she had yet seen in Japan. The new-comer seemed to notice this, for
-he entered without more ado. He immediately dropped to the floor and
-began to unpack his bundles. We were all soon interested in other
-things than our visitor’s face, for he had hardly begun to display his
-wares, before we saw something novel ahead. Japanese peddlers usually
-have an innumerable collection of small boxes, but our friend’s were
-larger and heavier and of a much richer kind. With the usual number
-of bows and smiles he began to reveal his treasures to our gaze, when
-we were honoured by the entrance of a small counterpart of himself,
-who had evidently been waiting outside until the coast was clear.
-Apparently they were brothers, and together they began to arrange their
-merchandise in a way to catch the American eye most temptingly.
-
-We had already seen many of those hanging pictures which figure so
-prominently in Japanese art, but nothing of so delicate a texture
-as those our visitor now laid before us. They were for the most
-part representations of religious emblems, but there was one of a
-more secular kind of which the young man was particularly proud. It
-was rather large, with a dark background on which was exquisitely
-embroidered a tall, white cock with head erect, crowing to his heart’s
-content, and strutting about in all the majesty of a flaming red comb.
-
-But this was only a beginning. Evidently our friend had brought these
-merely to see whether we were people of taste and could properly
-appreciate the untold treasures he had at his command. In his
-Mikado’s English he informed us that our artistic eye had touched
-him profoundly and had caused him to call to mind a _kakemono_ of
-unparalleled beauty, that would delight us still more. Whereupon, he
-ruthlessly folded up the cock with the flaming comb, placed it with the
-rest on the floor, and set the boy down upon the pile to guard matters
-until his return. It did not seem to occur to him that this latter act
-was a slur at our honesty--things are different in Japan, you know.
-
-“Have got house very beautiful _kakemono_. Priest won’t sell.” So he
-said, and so we understood him; giving him credit for grammatical
-correctness, when really he meant “want to sell.” Here, we thought, is
-a touching example of Japanese politeness! Our visitor is so impressed
-by our appreciation of his embroideries that he is about to show us one
-of the treasures of the temple, for the sole purpose of gratifying
-our taste for art. Soon this obliging Oriental returned, bearing a
-large bundle over his shoulder, which he immediately spread before our
-astonished gaze, all the while murmuring, as we thought, a repetition
-of the fact that the priest would not sell. We were further mystified
-by an occasional reference to a tea-house that seemed to disturb the
-young man’s peace of mind.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-However much we may have been puzzled by this, there was no doubt that
-we had before us one of the most delicate creations of art. Could it be
-possible that all this was the result of man’s labour, using what many
-of us find so clumsy an instrument as a needle? I have thought long
-how to give an idea of the skill, the patience, the taste displayed in
-this piece of tapestry; but who can tell a blind man what a rainbow is
-like? Besides, I do not yet myself thoroughly appreciate what it all
-means, for, though I have owned the tapestry for some time, I never
-look at it without finding something I have not seen before. It seems
-such an inadequate thing to say, that it was about eight feet long and
-three wide, and that the figures were worked upon a grey background
-surrounded by a border of black. If you could only have seen it as it
-first flashed upon me that evening, a glorious mingling of the bright
-Japanese colours of red, black, and white, as yet totally undimmed
-by the nearly two centuries that it had lain, a holy thing, in the
-Daitokuji Temple at Kioto! There seemed to be some historical scene
-portrayed, evidently a naval battle, for there were castles and boats
-and water, and in the distance the sacred mountain of Fujiyama, worked
-in a rich gold. Over all, with outspread wings, were flying storks, and
-in the sea were strange fish and monsters. And there were royal crests,
-sailors, warriors, birds of many kinds, the colours as finely blended
-in this piece of needlework as in an artist’s painting. Later I have
-had the opportunity to examine it more in detail, and to discover that
-the castles on the shore are undergoing a siege, the date of the events
-being that of the ascendency of Hideyoshi. We are sure of this because
-Hideyoshi himself is there in red armour, and though his face is not
-more than a quarter of an inch in diameter, the features are easily
-distinguishable. I have the names of the other officers and castles,
-with a full description of the event written in choice Japanese by the
-priest of whom the purchase was made.
-
-For he would sell, after all. As we stood admiring this monument of
-skill and patience, little thinking that it might be ours, the young
-man kept up his story about the refusal of the priest to sell, and also
-his pathetic allusions to the mysterious tea-house. Suddenly, however,
-he cleared up everything by turning to us despairingly with the words,--
-
-“Please buy!”
-
-Then we at last learned that the priest “wanted” to sell, and that
-he was driven to this strait by the necessity of raising money for
-a tea-house adjoining the temple. And we gladly bought. It was with
-reluctance that the priest gave us this Japanese treasure in return for
-our American dollars, for behind the act there is a pathetic story that
-touches the very heartstrings of the faithful followers of Buddha. It
-might not be inaptly styled “The rise and fall of the _Kakemono_.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-In those good old times when the Mikado was only a picturesque ornament
-of the community, subject himself to the dictates of some powerful
-_shogun_ or warrior like our friend Hideyoshi; before the barbarous
-West with its parliaments and trousers and sense of art-perspective had
-begun to intrude, a great being ruled in the hearts of the Japanese
-and filled them with longing and hope and love. He was not a native,
-it is true; but the fact that he came from India did not seem to make
-him any less national, and he was as much at home in this sunny island
-as in his own snowy Himalayas. To tell the truth, the poor Japanese
-peasant was not the happiest of mortals in those days; for we have many
-stories of the little regard in which he was held by those above him,
-and the insignificant part he played in the social system. It is not
-altogether strange, therefore, that this wanderer from the south should
-have met with a hearty welcome; for his lessons were those of kindness
-and hope. More than this, he taught the down-trodden serf that life
-was not a mere matter of unrewarded toil and undeserved suffering, but
-that it had a gleam of greatness even for him, and that besides there
-was something beyond. This bearer of glad tidings dwelt in the temples
-on the hills, and his name was Buddha. It is true that the ungodly
-Japanese had little stone images of him of which they thought a great
-deal, and so his religion was an idolatrous one; but for all that they
-might have done a great deal worse.
-
-For many centuries, therefore, they loved great Buddha, and loved him
-with all their souls. Every one, from the haughty _shogun_ to the
-little white-faced _geisha_, found in his spirit a something which he
-could find nowhere else, and which resulted in a stronger and purer
-life. There was one, however, who remained proudly aloof from all this,
-and regarded Buddha with a somewhat doubting eye. This was no less a
-personage than the Mikado himself, who, after all, could not be greatly
-blamed for the way he looked upon the new-comer. For Buddha was not
-only a foreigner but a revolutionary character, and expelled a former
-visionary something very dear to the Mikado’s vanity. This was the
-creed of Shintoism. Now I hope you will not embarrass me by asking what
-Shintoism is, for I assure you, that though I have given the matter
-some attention I have not yet a clearly defined idea as to what it all
-means. It does, however, teach us something indefinite about listening
-to the dictates of our hearts, and something definite about following
-the decrees of the Mikado. It treats this dignitary even more kindly
-than this, for it goes on to say that he is not a man at all, but a
-great god moving here among us,--a sacred thing to be worshipped. It
-supports this claim by a very long and highly respectable pedigree,
-proving him to be descended in the direct line, without twist or turn,
-from one Amaterasu, who was a sun-goddess before Buddha came. For
-Buddha did not trouble himself about the Mikado’s genealogical tree,
-and so the good man had little use for him. During many centuries he
-treasured up his ill-feeling; but things worked slowly in Japan in
-those days, and it was a long time before disobliging history gave the
-Mikado a chance to get even with this iconoclast of the south.
-
-To tell the truth, through all these years the Mikado was not the
-important personage his ancestry would lead you to suppose. His main
-occupation was posing gracefully as the head of the state, and for
-ages this descendant of the sun-goddess was kept in golden chains, a
-practical prisoner in his own castle. But he still kept his hold on the
-people, who, by some peculiar inconsistency very noticeable in their
-religious faiths, firmly believed that story about Amaterasu. This,
-however, did not in the least affect their warm love for Buddha, of
-which they gave evidence in many ways. They built many temples, which
-were approached by a series of handsome _torii_, or stone gateways,
-and which were regularly attended by priests. But by far the best
-thing they did was to make these embroidered pictures, one of which
-I have described at length. Those were emphatically the days of
-the _kakemonos_, and they are the most telling expressions of the
-deep-rooted affection with which the Japanese regarded their divine
-teacher. The works are deeply religious in the most profound sense of
-the word, and fill the same place in Japanese art that the works of
-Raphael and Michael Angelo do in Christian painting.
-
-[Illustration: Handsome _torii_, or Stone Gateways.]
-
-And these old masters had their counterparts in Japan, though but few
-are known to fame. I fancy, for example, that not many have heard of
-a certain genius named Tosa Mytzeoki; but he it was who flourished at
-the middle of the last century and spent three years of his life in
-making the beautiful tapestry that I now possess. The makers of these
-_kakemonos_ formed a separate class of society, and spent their whole
-lives in the practice of the delicate art. They had no instrument
-but the needle, and no material but Japanese silk with which to produce
-these wonderful results. They worked year after year at the beck of
-grosser spirits than themselves, and of course were poor and unhappy.
-They did not have the hope of fame that inspires so many artistic
-souls; for when a _kakemono_ was completed it was immediately laid away
-in the temple, far from vulgar eyes. Poor Tosa Mytzeoki never dreamed
-that the result of his delicate toil would some day grace an American
-drawing-room! It is true that on days of religious festivals the
-_kakemonos_ would sometimes be brought out and used in decorations for
-the walls, but these occasional exhibitions were a sorry foundation for
-future fame.
-
-When some nobleman--for the higher classes alone could afford such
-a sacrifice--wished to gain the favour of Buddha, he would go to one
-of these humble artists and give him an order for a _kakemono_. There
-were two kinds from which he might select, those that were embroidered
-and those made of paper. The latter were especially abundant, and of
-all kinds and sizes. Many of them contained merely an autograph done
-with the brush,--the national pen; for the Japanese have always had
-a liking for fine handwriting, esteeming excellence in that line a
-separate art. The figures with which a large number of these paper
-_kakemonos_ are covered are splendid examples of Japanese painting,
-the scenes being mostly of a historical and religious kind. Buddha and
-Confucius are the special favourites. The backgrounds are often filled
-with a host of figures; I remember one at Kioto, that contains nearly
-as many faces as Tintoretto’s painting in the Doge’s Palace at Venice.
-This _kakemono_ is remarkable for other reasons than this, for the
-work is lifelike and vigorous, and though five hundred years old is
-well preserved. It is called the “Death of Buddha,” and represents the
-expiring prophet surrounded by worshippers with grief-stricken faces,
-so vividly depicted that the very air seems filled with lamentation.
-
-For many centuries these _kakemonos_ were being collected in the
-Buddhist temples all over Japan. Then came the memorable year 1868,--a
-year that marked the close of the Japanese middle ages. The feudal
-system was abolished, and the whole scheme of government renovated. Now
-the Mikado emerged from his obscure position as a public official, and
-began to play more than a sentimental part in Japanese life. The days
-of the _shoguns_ were over, and the Mikado was the Mikado indeed. From
-this time the misfortunes of the _kakemonos_ began. The long-awaited
-opportunity of the Mikado had arrived. He solemnly sent forth an edict
-that Buddha had outlived his usefulness, and that the day of his
-great-great-grandmother, the sun-goddess, had come; the sole religion
-of the Japanese henceforth was to follow the teachings of his heart,
-but above all those of the Mikado. So Buddha’s occupation was gone.
-The Japanese were already on that downward path, which was to end in
-their wearing European trousers under Japanese _kimonos_, and they
-began to find the Indian prophet a little out of date. And besides, the
-missionaries had impressed upon their minds that those little stone
-images were things no self-respecting man would have about him. Many,
-therefore, decided to do away with these abominations, and follow the
-teachings of their hearts.
-
-But, though the government was persistent, Buddha was even more
-so, and was very loath to give up the sway he had secured over the
-affections of the Japanese. The humbler classes were also blind to the
-superior virtues of the Shinto Temple, and therefore an interesting
-struggle began, to see which was the fitter to survive. The struggle
-is not ended yet, nor is there any great indication that it soon will
-be. The Mikado himself has confessed the weakness of his own cause,
-for he has found that the mere listening to the teachings of one’s
-heart and obeying the decrees of the sovereign does not constitute a
-religion. He has therefore been obliged to borrow a great deal from
-his antagonist, and it so happens that the state religion of Japan is
-a tangled problem. But the masses of the people are still faithful to
-Buddha, whose temples are increasing every day.
-
-[Illustration: The Mendicant Priests.]
-
-In the midst of all these reforms there was one class on whom the
-burden rested with a peculiar weight. What was to become of the
-priests? The Mikado cared no more for these than he did for Buddha
-himself, and so, while a large part of Japan was listening to the
-teachings of its heart, these priests wandered in a melancholy way
-about the temples, at a loss as to what it all meant. Not only this,
-but they were hungry men, as the governmental supplies had suddenly
-ceased. The temples were beginning to show the evils of the sentimental
-tendency of the people, and it was evident that something must
-be done, or Buddha would have to limp back to India with a lessened
-appreciation of Japanese hospitality. Thus it was that some one more
-daring than the rest bethought him of the _kakemonos_. Here were
-treasures indeed, and moreover here were wealthy foreigners beginning
-to swarm anxiously to lay sacrilegious hands on everything. You see
-it was a simple case of sentiment _versus_ necessity, and as usual
-necessity came out on top. The priests must be fed, tea-houses must
-be built, the temples preserved; the government frowned upon them
-all. Every time, therefore, that the needs became too pressing to be
-resisted, a _kakemono_ was aroused from its rest of ages, and converted
-into cash. Buddha was thus given a lease of life once more, while his
-sacred _kakemonos_ were transported to do service in the drawing-rooms
-of Europe and America.
-
-Many of them were bought up by the Japanese themselves. They are a
-source of entertainment at dinner parties, where they are brought out
-for the inspection of the guests in much the same fashion that we
-display our bric-à-brac or collection of paintings. A careful history
-of each is kept, which always accompanies it. The more _kakemonos_
-the Japanese has, and the greater the antiquity of them, the prouder
-man he is. But the demand for them has occasioned many imitations
-which are reserved for the benefit of the unsuspecting foreigner. The
-connoisseur, however, can detect the difference as easily as he can
-distinguish between a copy and an original.
-
-But the problem is not solved yet. The government has issued another
-decree, obliging the priests to make an inventory of the treasures
-of the temple, and to see that no more _kakemonos_ are sold. He that
-has secured one of these works of art, therefore, has great cause for
-congratulation. But one still wonders what is to become of the hungry
-priests, and the shamefully-treated prophet of India. The question is
-made more interesting because Buddha shows about as much indication of
-returning to his native land as the priests do to begin listening to
-the teachings of their hearts.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-A GLIMPSE OF ROYALTY.
-
-
-“You must go to Nara,” they told us, as soon as we had landed in Japan.
-“It is one of the oldest and most sacred cities of the Empire. Though
-now politically of little importance, there are many interesting things
-to be seen. There are beautiful groves of cryptomerias, shadowy roads,
-crumbling stone lanterns, tame deer, and many an ancient Shinto
-temple. If you do not see Nara, you do not see Japan.”
-
-And so on a certain April morning we found ourselves on our way to the
-southern part of the island.
-
-You have heard much of the sunshine and the flowers, the tea-drinking,
-and the various æsthetic touches of Japanese life, so it may be
-somewhat disillusioning to learn that there are other points of view.
-This thought forces itself upon my mind whenever I think of our watery
-journey to Nara,--for it rains in Japan. The days can be cold and dark,
-hotel accommodations can be scanty, and foreigners can take a long and
-hungry railroad ride, and have impressions that they do not care to put
-down in a book of travels. We had heard the praises of the journey so
-rapturously sung, that the rainy mountains, the swollen streams, the
-dripping trees, the cold, wet, and uncomfortable passengers, struck us
-with a painful sense of the reality of things. As yet I had experienced
-only the warm and sunshiny side of the climate, and so, as I stepped
-from the train that afternoon, and gazed about on the various signs of
-general discomfort, I could but ask myself, “Is this Japan?”
-
-Yes, it was Japan, and more than that, it was Nara. If I had any
-reasonable doubt, before me stood the everlasting symbol of things
-Japanese,--the _jinrikisha_ man. He had a melancholy and rainy-weather
-look, which was increased by the freedom with which he had discarded
-his usual costume and appeared wrapped in a covering of straw. Such a
-picturesque equipage and ingenuous attendant look well in a photograph,
-and can even afford a certain amount of pleasure in a busy city with
-plenty of daylight and interesting objects as a background; but as I
-stood there, facing the downpour and a two-mile ride, I began to wonder
-whether the ancient capital of Japan was such a fascinating study as my
-friends had promised.
-
-For all that, I crawled in, and my stoical friend began to arrange me
-with a tenderness of which his face betrayed no sign. He drew a leather
-robe over my lap, tucked it in to keep out the least intruding drop
-of rain, drew the top of the carriage completely over and shut me in,
-much after the way in which my grandmother used to draw her sunbonnet
-over her face. Everything was dark and mysterious, and had I been of
-a nervous temperament there would have been much to terrify. I began
-to wonder how the rest of the party was getting on; but the blind
-faith that there was a _jinrikisha_ somewhere back of me could not be
-confirmed until I had reached the end.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-I could feel small streams of water trickling down my neck, and pools
-gathered in the bottom of the carriage. It began to splash into my
-face and hands; the wind came pouring in, and a blast occasionally
-unloosened my lap robe. I was surrounded by impenetrable darkness,
-with the exception of a small aperture below, where I caught sight of
-a pair of uncovered legs automatically moving. I divined that these
-were the property of the gentleman who had arranged me in my present
-position with such extreme solicitude, and whose spirit would have been
-keenly pained had he known that so large a portion of the storm was
-finding its way into the carriage. His utter disregard of himself had
-a suggestion of the sublime; for, though the day was cold, he had on
-hardly more than a covering of straw, and his bare feet went through
-the mud and pools with the utmost indifference. I learned afterward
-that his limited wardrobe was not so real as apparent, and that his
-appearance that afternoon was caused not so much by poverty as by
-pride; for this _jinrikisha_ man occupied an enviable position among
-his fellows, and had reason to consider himself a favourite of fortune.
-This is all explained when I tell you that he was the haughty possessor
-of a pair of European trousers. It mattered little to him that these
-might have been thrown aside by some more fastidious American, or that
-the style might have been a little behind the time. They were the chief
-glory of his life,--and the chief torment too. No one can say how much
-his melancholy aspect was caused by the fact that fate had heaped such
-bountiful favours and grave responsibilities on his head,--for he lived
-under the constant fear that some day he might wear these trousers out.
-And so, with the true Japanese spirit of economy, he had hit upon an
-excellent plan against such a contingency,--he resolved not to wear
-them at all.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-This unconscious humourist furnished the only diversion of the ride.
-Doubtless I passed through many delightful scenes, and might have
-caught many charming bits of Japanese rural life. I shall never know
-how those tea-fields looked in that pouring rain, and the plodding
-Orientals that must have passed are a sealed picture. I could
-occasionally hear the tall trees swaying and scraping together in the
-cold breeze, but they were not for the eye. All that I could see was
-a small square of mud and water, and the mournful movement of the
-untrousered legs below. These were very instructive as object-lessons
-in domestic economy, but I would have preferred to have enough
-landscape to set them off to better advantage. Such an interesting
-thing, however, was enough in itself to keep my spirit up, and I
-thoroughly enjoyed the ride, in spite of the many things I could not
-see. My faithful friend unconsciously kept up a stock of that good
-humour which was soon to be called into play; for when we had reached
-the hotel where we were to spend the night, the guide came gloomily
-towards us and made the announcement that the house was full, and that
-we would be obliged to find some other place. He said that he had
-succeeded in finding a small Japanese house near by, and that this was
-the best that could be done.
-
-It was still raining hard, the night was getting dark, and there was
-nothing for us to do but to take what we could get; and I do not know
-that we regretted it after all. The approach to the house was not
-convenient, but the place itself was of the true Japanese daintiness:
-a tiny affair, with but one story, the earthquakes having been duly
-considered in its erection. It contained but two rooms, and resembled
-more a child’s play-house than a dwelling. It was furnished with the
-ever-present white mats that are so prominent a feature of Japanese
-domestic life. We decided to conform ourselves to our surroundings, and
-be distinctively Japanese. So, carefully removing our shoes, we sat
-down on our heels, while the guide departed to see what could be found
-to eat. This oriental posture is very interesting as an experiment,
-but I would not advise you to let your enthusiasm carry you too far.
-If you have spent hours on the floor with a child playing with paper
-dolls, you can get a good idea of what it is like. Our first intention
-was to spend the whole evening in this way, and in other respects to
-do as the Japanese did, but we soon found that the effect was mainly
-valuable as furnishing a few jokes to enliven the conversation. And
-when we thought of eating our dinner after the fashion of the best
-Japanese society, we again became irresolute, and were greatly relieved
-when one of the little _musmees_ returned with American dishes and
-American chairs. Thereafter we let our attendants look after the honour
-of Japan. They amused us during the progress of the meal by tying and
-untying their sashes,--their chief feminine vanity,--and by indulging
-in the endless capers and familiarities permitted to the _musmee_
-alone. The evening passed rapidly and gaily, and the wind and rain were
-forgotten in the Japanese dreams that followed the artless speeches and
-childish pranks of our little entertainers.
-
-[Illustration: Tying and untying their Sashes.]
-
-A soft, grey light came streaming through the paper panes, and in my
-drowsy ears I heard the chatter of the _musmees_, telling us that it
-was morning, and time to be on our way. The storm was not entirely
-over, though it was indulging in a momentary pause. The water was
-dripping from the trees, only waiting for the sunlight to pierce
-through the heavy clouds to clothe every leaf with sparkling gems.
-The sky had an air of indefiniteness and unconcern, in doubt whether
-to repeat its performance of the day before, or to burst forth into
-that splendour with which we were more familiar. There was nothing
-lacking but this for a perfect day; the wind had worn itself out
-during the night, the atmosphere was assuming a more oriental
-gentleness, the flowers were fresh and bright, and our hearts were full
-of gay anticipation. We had little time during the day and evening
-previous to think of one great predominant fact: that we were at the
-far-famed city of Southern Japan, warm with tradition and beauty, its
-history alive with the early tales of a struggling people, its temples
-and shrines aglow with much that is finest in human sentiment.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-We were surprised at our breakfast by the hurried entrance of our
-guide. He was a man of considerable refinement and composure, and we
-were therefore taken aback at the excitement that he now displayed.
-With bated breath he explained to us that the unforeseen had happened,
-though whether this was a matter of congratulation his demeanour
-did not make clear. If you are familiar enough with the mixture of
-reverence and love with which the Japanese regard their dowager
-Empress, you will readily understand the agitation of our guide. She
-is an exalted being, the wife of one Mikado and the mother of another,
-and is besides a most estimable woman with lovable qualities of her
-own. So when the guide learned that she was at the present time at Nara
-and would be there for the rest of the day, his emotions of loyalty
-and awe had a sudden inspiration, and there was nothing for him to
-do but to try to communicate them to us. After we had satisfied him
-that we were duly impressed by the situation, he consented to descend
-to particulars. One of the most ancient ceremonies at Nara is the
-sacred dance which is yearly given in the adjoining grounds of one of
-the temples, and at which some member of the royal family is expected
-to be present. That her Majesty should select the very day that we
-had appointed to visit the place can only be considered as a happy
-coincidence of fate. Preparations had been going on for many days, and
-everything was ready for a most elaborate performance. At this point
-the guide became somewhat mysterious, and began to hint that possibly
-after the royal party had finished we might persuade the priests to
-repeat the dance for our benefit. Of course we were duly shocked
-that any such thing should be done, but we smothered our reverential
-emotions, and decided to make the attempt. I all along suspected that
-our friend had completed arrangements before he had spoken to us, but
-he betrayed no evidence of this in his anxiety lest his plan should
-fail. To confess the truth, I did not feel quite at ease over the
-matter, for the Empress had been painted to me in a rather unpleasant
-light, and I was very much afraid of offending her royal pride. I had
-been told that she regarded foreigners with an unfriendly eye, and was
-jealous of the innovations that were creeping in from the West, and
-gradually making the real Japan a thing of the past. It was said that
-she looked upon the European costume as a thing to be abhorred, and the
-silk hat as a sign of barbarism. Particularly, my friends had been kind
-enough to inform me that she regarded the American race as a peculiarly
-unpleasant growth, and one to be tolerated by no respectable Japanese.
-Though I discovered later that my information was wrong, the thought
-sufficed to make me uncomfortable, and I felt that to intrude upon a
-ceremony intended only for the royal eye, was audacious and indelicate.
-The assurance of the guide that this had been done before did not mend
-the matter, and I had some twinges of conscience as I stepped into the
-_jinrikisha_ awaiting to conduct me to the temple grounds.
-
-As we rode out of the court-yard, we observed an interested throng
-gathered around an equipage of a kind somewhat difficult to classify.
-Had we seen it in an American city we should have taken it for a
-dilapidated victoria; but it was hard to determine what connection such
-a disreputable affair could have with the mother of the Mikado. The
-whole thing, from the ragged upholstering to the rickety wheels, had a
-most unroyal appearance. The small, shaggy horse may have been having a
-good time, but he failed to reveal it by any expression of contentment.
-The coachman, however, managed to extract much satisfaction from the
-situation. He had the bristling, black hair so characteristic of the
-people, and on the back of this he wore a small, low-crowned derby hat,
-gracefully cocked on one side, with an air of great self-satisfaction.
-His dress was the not uncommon combination of Japanese _kimono_ and
-European trousers, the latter being carefully creased, and turned up to
-display his American shoes. His studied attempt to appear dignified was
-made the more amusing by the shortness of his stature; but the crowd
-was not amused. The Japanese take this sort of thing seriously, and the
-only emotions their faces displayed before this cosmopolitan outburst
-were those of envy and admiration. When my attendant informed me that
-this was the equipage provided for the first lady of Japan, I began to
-suspect that her reported dislike of western civilisation was unreal.
-I told the _jinrikisha_ man to hurry on before she came out, as I was
-anxious to escape her observation.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-We entered the temple-grounds by a long avenue arched over by tall
-cryptomerias, which extended in a tangled forest on either side.
-Through the wistaria vines, almost as dense as a jungle, occasional
-glimpses of the sky could be seen. There was little sunshine, and the
-morning had the air of twilight. The avenue extended in a long and
-regular line ahead, and seemed a fitting entrance to the most sacred
-shrine of Japan. A gentle touch was given the whole scene by a number
-of tame deer that find safe abode in these forests, where the hunter
-is unknown. As they came up to us and looked into our faces with their
-large, confiding eyes, they were followed by a troop of little girls
-who had cakes to sell, of which the animals were very fond. Little was
-said, for we all felt that we were in a sacred atmosphere, and the
-quieting influence of the past was beginning to steal over us. The
-endless array of those famous stone lanterns, ranged on both sides of
-the avenue, was a fitting suggestion of former glory; the days of many
-of these had long gone by, and they were slowly crumbling in ruins. We
-were told by our guide that occasionally one was lighted, but most of
-them had been extinct for years. Before us we could see the pavilion
-where the dance was to take place. It was a simple roof supported by
-columns, its floor the mat-covered earth. The priests were walking
-around in their stately white robes and fly-screen shaped hats, with
-little priestesses by their side. We had abandoned our _jinrikishas_ on
-entering the grove, and now walked slowly along, thinking of nothing
-but the trees, the stone lanterns, the deer, and the general beauty of
-the scene. Even the Empress had been forgotten, until, happening to
-glance back, I was startled to see the royal carriage with the sedate
-coachman on the seat, ambling along at a leisurely Japanese gait. A few
-seconds later it stopped, and the Empress and her retinue alighted,
-with the apparent intention of doing the rest of the journey on foot.
-Wishing to avoid observation, we quickly stepped behind one of the
-stone lanterns at a turn of the road. Unfortunately we were not quick
-enough, or the glance of her Majesty was too keen, for our presence and
-hurried movement did not escape her. As she slowly passed we had a good
-opportunity to observe her closely, and in spite of the disagreeable
-stories we had heard, the impression was not an unfavourable one. She
-was apparently seventy years of age, with an intelligent and kindly
-face, having by no means the severe demeanour we had been led to
-expect. She was dressed in the old-time Japanese style, with bright
-red skirt and white satin _kimono_. Her hair was arranged in a kind
-of a halo, falling down her shoulders in the back. All the ladies in
-her train were dressed in a similar style, but the men were attired
-after the European fashion,--in the prevailing court costume. The
-chamberlain of the household department, an elderly man, was in charge
-of affairs. As the procession neared our place of vantage, it turned
-to the right in the direction of the Temple-grounds. We were about to
-congratulate ourselves that we were to escape unseen, when her Majesty
-turned completely around and subjected us to a scrutiny that was
-embarrassing, however kindly meant. I bowed with a reverence that would
-have done credit to the most obsequious Oriental, and at the same time
-the men of the party lifted their hats in approved occidental style.
-The ladies and gentlemen of the royal retinue returned our greetings
-with a politeness that rivalled our own, but the Empress did not
-incline her body in the least. She continued gazing at us with the same
-puzzled expression, yet with no indication of displeasure. Apparently
-satisfied with what she had seen, she presently passed on. The few
-moments had been embarrassing for us, for we did not know of how many
-breaches of propriety we might have been guilty; and our salutations
-had not been without a touch of penitence as well as respect.
-
-The Empress had hardly disappeared when one of the priests, with
-long robes waving in the wind, came running towards us. We were now
-confident that he had some message from the Empress, and were fearful
-that the long-expected dislike of foreigners was to be shown. This
-idea could hardly have been gained from the priest’s face, however, as
-it betrayed no evidence of offended dignity, though there were signs
-of anxiety and surprise. He paid no attention to us, but immediately
-engaged our guide in an earnest conversation, the conclusion of which
-we waited with some apprehension. Finally our attendant turned and
-spoke to us in the following surprising terms,--
-
-“Her Majesty has learned with pleasure that you have come so far to see
-the sacred dance, and is very glad that you have happened here the
-same day as herself. She is very unwilling, however, that you should be
-kept standing while she witnesses the performance, but thinks that you
-should be treated with all the kindness and hospitality of Japan. She
-has therefore sent one of the priests to bid you greeting, and offers
-you the seats that have been prepared for herself and party; and she
-will feel very much offended if you do not accept.”
-
-These words affected us with mingled feelings of astonishment,
-flattery, and embarrassment. We had heard much of the politeness of
-the Japanese, but here was a unique expression of it; one could hardly
-receive more. And what had become of the dislike for foreigners which
-I had been told was so prominent a trait in her character? We were
-somewhat in doubt as to what was the right thing to do, and stood
-there gazing at each other for a few moments, waiting for some one to
-take the initiative.
-
-“I hope you will thank her Majesty for us,” I finally answered, “but
-we could not think of taking her place at the dance. We can just as
-conveniently wait until she has finished. We all, however, very deeply
-feel her kindness.”
-
-“Oh, but you must come--you must come,” hurriedly returned the guide,
-dropping a little of his formality in his fear that we would not
-accept. “The Empress would not like it at all if you refused her
-invitation. She says that she can see it at any time, but you have come
-from far over the seas, and must see it to-day or never. You cannot
-decline,--it would never do.”
-
-Without considering the possibility of our refusal any further, he
-and the priest immediately led the way. There was nothing for us to
-do but to follow; and the faces of our Japanese friends were wreathed
-in smiles as they saw that we had overcome our scruples. We were much
-relieved on our arrival to find that the Empress and her train had gone
-to the northern part of the temple to perform their devotions. However
-much we would have liked to thank her in person, our acquaintance with
-Japanese court etiquette was not such that we could know just how it
-should be done. With a genuine oriental awe we seated ourselves in the
-chairs that had been destined for the venerable Empress, and from the
-cups made for nobler hands drank the tea that was meant for royal lips.
-We soon found ourselves in a more comfortable frame of mind, and by the
-time the dance had begun, we were in a condition to enjoy it.
-
-There is not much variety in Japanese dancing, and that which we saw
-on this occasion differed little from many similar performances we had
-attended. There were five little girls, ranging from nine to twelve
-years of age, dressed in the old imperial costume of red silk, with
-divided skirts, the white _kimono_ being covered by another of gauze,
-painted with purple wistaria. As usual, their faces were covered with
-white plaster, their lips were of a bright carmine, and their eyebrows
-shaved. Their hair, tied in gold paper, hung down their backs, and on
-their foreheads were clusters of wistaria and white camellias. The
-accompaniment was furnished by two priests, one performing on a kind
-of fife, the other provided with two small sticks of wood, which he
-struck together, at the same time that the chief priest delivered, in
-a high-pitched voice, notes very suggestive of the Midway Plaisance.
-The dancing consisted of the slow posturing that the Orientals so much
-prefer to the agile movements of the West, and we had begun to catch
-the spirit of it, and were able to enjoy it after the true Japanese
-style.
-
-We saw no more of the Empress who so disliked foreigners, but who could
-treat them with such delicacy. We had another indication of her kindly
-disposition, however, after we had left the pavilion at the conclusion
-of the dance. Outside stood the sacred white horse always to be found
-near these ancient temples, and one of the little girl attendants stood
-by, selling the peculiar mixture which forms his only food. After I had
-done my duty by the divine animal, I took the hand of the little girl,
-who looked up into my eyes and said,--
-
-“Her Majesty has just gone by. She was very gentle to me, and gave the
-sacred horse many measures of grain.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-FIN DE SIÈCLE JAPAN.
-
-
-You must not think that you are a person of no consequence if you do
-not receive an invitation to the Mikado’s garden-party, for there are
-a great many important people not always on his Majesty’s list. I
-cannot tell you just what are the necessary qualifications to the royal
-favour, for the presence of the entire diplomatic corps is not always
-requested, the pride of many a native noble receives a fall, and no one
-knows what anguish of mind the majority of the democratic Americans
-in Yokohama experience at not receiving a card. Perhaps the most
-fortunate thing connected with the party is the delicate flower that
-is its most prominent feature; everything in Japan connected with the
-cherry-blossom is sacred, and this probably accounts, to some extent,
-for the chariness with which the Mikado distributes his favours. In
-October the advent of the chrysanthemum is similarly observed, but this
-function is not as important as that held in April. Everything depends
-on the capriciousness of the cherry-blossom, and the party is given
-early or late as the pink and white deign to display themselves to the
-worshipping Japanese. Invitations, therefore, are issued only a few
-days in advance, and are then subject to recall should circumstances
-happen to prevent the spring-time flower from looking its daintiest.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The invitation is written in highly-refined Japanese with a
-sixteen-petaled chrysanthemum crest in gold. The party is held in the
-royal Asakusa garden, and the Mikado is always present with his slim,
-pretty little wife at his side. The guests are usually very punctual in
-assembling; the national anthem is played with a royal sonorousness;
-the Emperor and Empress, with a dignified suite, pass through the
-garden with the genuine stolidity of ceremonial Japan. Presentations
-are seldom made, and when there is a person of sufficient dignity and
-importance for this honour, the ceremony is more stately than cordial.
-The larger part of the time is spent in admiring the cherry-blossoms,
-which are everywhere, and which in their early glow are of singular
-beauty. All this is very well; yet it is not the Mikado or the flowers
-that are likely to attract the greater part of your attention. There
-is a feature of the party of more surpassing interest than these: this
-is the high hat. It is this picturesque head-piece which redeems the
-sombreness of the gathering, and makes it an event unique in social
-life. You are probably somewhat surprised that our occidental high
-hat and the delicate white and pink cherry-blossom of Japan should
-have anything in common, but they do have a great deal. Several years
-ago the Japanese saw that this article of dress was the very thing
-needed to crown gracefully their _kimono_-clad forms, and they eagerly
-took it. They borrowed it of course from western foreigners, for the
-Japanese imagination is not capable of such wild flights as this.
-It has so become the fashion that they now regard it with a kind of
-reverence, and require its appearance on the most sacred occasions. It
-is therefore specially stipulated in the Mikado’s invitations to his
-parties that the gentlemen shall wear frock coats and high hats. The
-ladies are left to their own judgment, and generally appear in light
-calling dresses.
-
-But this stipulation has been the cause of no end of dismay to those
-foreigners so ambitious of social advancement in Japan. The American
-is more likely to suffer in this respect than his European cousins. At
-any rate it not unfrequently happens that when sailing for the land
-of the _kimono_ you leave your high hat on western shores. And so an
-invitation to the Mikado’s party affects you with mingled feelings of
-apprehension and tickled vanity. It is a case where a beaver hat can
-be quite a serious affair. At first you give up in despair, and decide
-that the invitation must be declined, but on second thought you think
-it might be well to consult your confidential Japanese friend. You
-are somewhat relieved when this gentleman assures you that everything
-can be arranged, and that there is nothing to prevent your attending
-the party,--and in a high hat too. The Japanese friend now murmurs
-something about “The Beaver Pound,” and you immediately recall certain
-institutions at home where stray animals are gathered from their
-wanderings, and protectingly held until the requirements of the law
-are fulfilled. You are a much puzzled man; but after you have been
-conducted to the place mentioned, this state of mind is likely to give
-place to another. With the utmost gravity your friend discloses to you
-the treasures of the place, and politely invites you to help yourself.
-For here are high hats, both silk and beaver, of all sizes, ages, and
-countries, and you must be a very fastidious person indeed if you find
-nothing to your taste. Every time a westerner leaves a high hat behind
-him it is immediately spirited away by mysterious hands, and it is
-seen no more until it graces the head of a careless foreigner at some
-social occasion of more than common import. By this time there is quite
-a collection, ragged and marred as the coins and stamps that are a
-frequent hobby with us.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-You had better visit the Pound early, as the hats are in great demand,
-and you may have difficulty in fitting your head. You finally make a
-choice; the likelihood being at best that you will have a size too
-large or small, but this is only the simplest of the complications. You
-are by no means the first man that has worn this hat, and it shows the
-effects of many cherry-blossom parties. Occasionally a new sleek hat
-finds its way into the Pound, and there is considerable competition as
-to who shall secure the prize. You had better in some way exhaust all
-the humour that the idea gives you before you attend the party, else
-you will not have sufficient command over yourself to view the occasion
-with the stoical eye of the Japanese; for the hats show off to a better
-advantage from a comparative point of view. You must place a neat,
-decorous, low crown of the latest style beside the parabolic curve of
-several years ago to see really how funny it all is. There is the white
-and drab head-piece, suggestive of the gentleman of sporting tastes,
-and an occasional shaggy something that we now see only in pictorial
-representations of Uncle Sam. All this is very amusing; but it is a
-graver matter when a young man of eighteen has to parade around in a
-widower’s weed, or a staid clergyman or pompous Member of Congress is
-obliged to hide behind the trees in order to conceal the fact that his
-head is adorned by one of the little peaked affairs in vogue a long
-time ago. Nor are these the only things in the same line. The ladies
-of the court have caught that disease which is spreading so rapidly in
-Japan, -- Europamania, -- and have cast aside their beautiful native
-costumes for a western dress. Their success at best is doubtful, but
-there is one who seems to have managed things with a greater skill. You
-will likely wonder how the Mikado’s wife can look so well when you have
-heard of the difficulties she has to undergo in her desire to dress
-like a European lady. Her person is too sacred to be touched by vulgar
-hands, and this unfortunate fact interfered with her progressive plans
-for some time, until the problem was solved by fitting her dresses upon
-one of her attendants of similar height and figure. In spite of this
-inconvenience, the Empress appears very well, and is one of the few
-Japanese ladies who wears the European costume with dignity and grace.
-
-Yet all this is only a fair example of what you may see in any part of
-Japan. The changes that have been sweeping over the country have not
-been confined to political institutions, but have affected the most
-trifling details of Japanese life. It makes no matter where you go,
-or the people you meet, everything bears the traces of the new lands
-and peoples that have found such favour in their eyes. To any one
-who has a taste for the picturesque, the attempts of the Japanese at
-cosmopolitanism are an interesting field of study. The background of
-their life is, of course, the Japan of ages gone by, with its Mikado,
-its flowers, its sunshine, and its tea; but upon this are sprinkled the
-innumerable foreign traits that make everything grotesquely amusing.
-With their Mikado they have parliamentary government, and though they
-are perhaps as fond of their tea as ever, they can occasionally lay it
-aside for the champagne of the West, and beer flows almost as freely as
-in Germany itself.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-We Americans may take a pride in all this, and may feel delighted
-that the Japanese will christen themselves with such names as George
-Washington and Abraham Lincoln; yet I have my doubts whether it is not
-a mistaken idea of development that persuades us to dignify it by the
-name of progress. The Japanese are extremely quick and imitative, but
-like most imitative people, they are likely to perceive only what is
-most obvious, and so become grotesque. They can see that there are many
-attractive things about the feminine attire of the West; they fail to
-see that it is not suitable to themselves. It is a question, after all,
-whether it is the preferable qualities of the new things which they
-meet that leads them to adopt them, or whether it is a mania simply for
-what is new. At the best they are in a stage of transition. The East
-is constantly touching the West, and the average Japanese to-day is
-an interesting combination of the inherited traits and emotions of a
-remote civilisation, and an environment too powerful to be resisted.
-
-You will understand all this immediately, should you take a short walk
-in one of the streets of a representative Japanese city. The appearance
-of the people will strike you as un-Japanese. The women, as a rule, do
-not now blacken their teeth, or shave their eyebrows, as you have been
-brought up to suppose. There are still, it is true, many who do not
-like to see these usages die out; but most of them live in the country
-districts, which have naturally not been affected by the changes in
-the same way that the cities have. The old women still go around with
-blackened teeth, but it is because they were disfigured this way before
-the innovation was introduced. The Empress adopted the new idea a few
-years ago, and the people have rapidly followed. Most of the women
-still wear the dress of their ancestors, yet it is doubtful whether
-this is by inclination or necessity; anything in a foreign line is a
-luxury, and only the higher classes can afford to follow the style.
-They still retain their peculiar ambling walk, which is like a slow
-run, but there are many little indications that this will be abandoned
-soon.
-
-It is in the dress of the men, however, that the greatest changes are
-to be seen. The number of combinations that the average Japanese can
-ring upon _kimono_ and coat and trousers, I have never yet tried to
-count, but you cannot go into a city street without seeing a new one.
-It is sometimes the _kimono_ and trousers, sometimes the trousers
-without the _kimono_, or the _kimono_ without the trousers. They view
-the derby hat with great favour, and some wear their hair long, like
-an American football player. They have caught the infection of creased
-trousers, and take satisfaction in rolling up the ends of them in
-the clearest weather. I once saw an enthusiastic and progressive Jap
-walking stolidly through the streets with a small stiff hat perched
-on the back of his head, with his _kimono_ turned up in the back,
-disclosing a pair of flannel underdrawers, white stockings, and laced
-American shoes, the whole gracefully consummated by a cane, which he
-swung jauntily as he marched along. The conscious pride that he took
-in this outfit was something delightful to see, and the serious and
-possibly envious glances showered upon him by his friends showed that
-he was a centre of admiration.
-
-I was surprised one day by a vehicle that I saw slowly creeping up one
-of the streets of Tokio. It was a small affair, with a single horse in
-front, the approach of which was announced by the mournful jingle of a
-bell. At a distance the equipage looked like a little yellow box, and
-it was some time before I could convince myself that it was a sorry
-specimen of that most American of institutions,--a horse-car. I learned
-later that it was only Tokio that could boast of such an incongruity,
-and the contented and proud air of the driver was in itself an
-indication that his position was an unusual one. It was rather the idea
-of the thing that was so delightful, for so far as convenience was
-concerned, the slow motion of the car could not be thought much of an
-improvement over the _jinrikisha_.
-
-I have a Japanese friend who had been educated in America and had
-adopted our ways, who relates an amusing experience he had in
-connection with this strange innovation. The cars have bells and
-conductors after the American plan; but, unlike our custom, they
-are used for the purpose for which they are designed. My friend did
-not know this, and so when he wished to alight he walked out to the
-platform and jumped off while the car was in motion. He had not gone
-far, however, when he saw the conductor running frantically after him,
-with an air of the utmost consternation. The car was stopped, and quite
-a crowd collected to watch the outcome of the dispute. My friend was
-astonished, and completely in the dark as to what it all meant, when
-the conductor in angry tones asked him how he dared to disregard the
-law by alighting from a horse-car while it was going at full speed?
-The accused man protested his ignorance of such a statute; but the
-conductor was unpacified, and threatened to call a policeman. It was
-only when he learned that his unruly passenger had lately returned
-from America, where they do all kinds of barbarous things, and where he
-had learned to disregard the conductor, that he consented to let him
-go. My friend received a solemn warning never to repeat the act, and on
-so promising was reluctantly released.
-
-Many other things in the streets will remind you of home. It is nothing
-strange to see a bicycle come leisurely down the street, perched upon
-by a Jap clad in the combination of trousers and _kimono_ that most
-strikes his fancy. The electric light is rapidly being introduced. The
-Japanese have their policeman, and they dress him after the European
-style. He has a blue uniform, a small peaked hat, and a club,--but here
-the comparison must cease. He does not exactly know what to do with
-all the power bestowed upon him, and he will never arrest a man except
-on extreme provocation. When he does decide to enforce the dignity of
-the law, he calmly goes up to his prisoner, ties his hands together
-with a hempen rope, and leads him off with the utmost gentleness.
-
-The English language suffers at the hands of our commercial friends,
-and their attempts to catch the American trade in this way reveal many
-startling things. One shop informs us that “cakes and infections” are
-found within; but the best thing in this line I have seen, is the
-following business card of a Yokohama firm: “Jewelry maker, a finest
-in town, Whiskey Boy. Our shop is best and obliging worker that have
-everybody known, and having articles genuine Japanese crystal and
-all kinds of Curious Stones, Shells, Ivory Cats-eyes--work own name
-on monograms or any design according to orders. We can works how much
-difficult Job with lowest price insure, please try, once try. Don’t
-forget name Whisky.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-English, however, is spoken fairly well, and with what Japanese he will
-pick up, the average foreigner gets along without much trouble. There
-has been lately introduced that ever-present travelling companion, the
-phrase-book, in which we are told how to ask the time of day, what we
-want for dinner, and other needful questions; but the language is so
-strange in its construction, that few have courage to try anything very
-elaborate, and for more intricate matters must rely upon the guide, who
-usually speaks our language with fluency. One of the men of our party
-tried on a certain occasion to show a little gallantry to his attending
-_geisha_, and began to tell her, by the aid of a phrase-book, that she
-had very beautiful eyes. He thought that he had succeeded so well in
-this that he would go one step further, and presumed to inform her that
-they shone like the stars. You will see that this latter is not only
-a more delicate compliment, but that it is a more involved sentence,
-and requires knowledge of grammatical construction not essential to the
-more simple statement. The little _geisha_ did not understand him at
-all, but he kept at it persistingly almost the entire evening. Finally
-the interpreter was called in, and the puzzling speech was rendered
-into Japanese. The girl glanced coyly up and replied: “Oh, but there
-are a great many favoured in the same way.” After that our friend gave
-up the phrase-book, and conducted his future gallantries by means of an
-interpreter.
-
-The Japanese have learned more things from the visits of foreigners
-than a change of costume and the art of war. Perhaps the spirit of
-trickery is inborn, but the numerous signs we saw of this were of an
-order that would do credit to the shrewdest Yankee. One of our party
-was always a little sensitive to any reference to ducks, and I myself
-had an experience with certain artistic representations of dragons of
-which I was frequently reminded by my friends. Our companion, while
-taking an evening walk in Kioto, had been attracted by a certain
-individual carrying, by means of shoulder straps, a miniature pond,
-in which there were very dainty images of ducks swimming around as
-naturally as you could wish. He paused to watch the proceeding, and
-became deeply interested. His enthusiasm reached its height when he saw
-the fowls occasionally dive under the water and reappear, apparently
-greatly refreshed by the plunge. My friend excitedly asked the price of
-these phenomenal birds, paid down a large sum with great willingness,
-received a paper with instructions as to the way to produce the
-desired effect, and started for the hotel. Arriving there, he began
-to read the paper in order to prepare for the first exhibition. He was
-somewhat chagrined by being advised therein to buy a few sprightly gold
-fish, attach them to the ducks, place both on the water, and await
-developments.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-And now, I suppose, it would be only fair to tell you how I was
-victimised by a similar piece of roguery. I had not been in Japan
-long enough to distinguish the good shops from the bad, nor to know
-the proper methods of collecting curios. I was attracted one morning
-by a graphic representation of a woman sitting on a dragon, the whole
-evidently the work of a Japanese sculptor. The colour of the image, a
-rich dark brown, was what particularly struck my fancy. The keeper of
-the shop informed me that it was a rare piece of art, that it was made
-of a certain sacred wood, and that the price was thirty dollars. I did
-not buy that morning. In the evening we took a walk through one of the
-busy streets, and lo! here was an itinerant merchant with my dragon at
-his side, anxiously looking for a customer. I quickly stepped up to
-him, and listened to the same tale I had heard in the morning, with
-one important exception,--the price was now eighty-five cents. Perhaps
-because I thought I was getting a bargain, perhaps out of curiosity,
-I purchased the statue, had it done up in paper, and departed with my
-treasure. Before I showed it to my friends I thought I would wash it a
-little, as it had a very dusty look, and would be improved by a bath. I
-was somewhat startled to see the rich dark brown colour fade away and
-leave me a pure white dragon of a cheap Japanese material resembling
-plaster-of-paris. I called in the guide, who gave a broad grin as he
-surveyed the melancholy object before me. He kindly told me that it had
-been “dipped in medicine,” and I made him a present of the curiosity
-for his information. He bore it away with a satisfied air, and that was
-the last I saw of my dark brown dragon,--though by no means the last I
-heard of it.
-
-These are only a few of the ways in which the influence of the West can
-be traced in Japan. It will be interesting to watch what the next few
-years will bring about; whether the _kimono_ will triumph over the
-trousers, the tea over the beer, or whether there will be a gradual
-mingling into a new type. The whole thing may be but a temporary mania,
-a passing aberration of a quickly assimilative people; and perhaps in a
-few years the progressive Japanese will see the folly of his ways, and
-learn that he can best advance after a manner of his own.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-CHO AND EBA.
-
-
-They were surely not the most distinguished friends we made while we
-were in Japan. As far as worldly considerations went, they were very
-humble indeed; but they possessed other qualifications which entitled
-them to our favour, and the youthful Eba particularly has left a
-lasting impression on our minds. Throughout our stay they were our
-companions; we could never visit a temple without their aid, nor climb
-a mountain without their words of advice and encouragement. On many
-a shopping expedition did they faithfully act as our guides, and many
-a quiet hint would they give us as to the commercial wiles of their
-countrymen.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Cho and Eba belonged to the most insignificant class of oriental
-society. In a land where caste is of such importance, I know that any
-of our aristocratic Japanese friends would be horrified to learn that
-we entertain so kindly a remembrance of these paltry creatures, to whom
-the haughty noblemen of the East would hardly deign to give a passing
-glance. Perhaps it was because we treated them differently that they
-repaid us with such tender regard and would apparently sacrifice
-any happiness of their own to give us a momentary satisfaction.
-For our humble friends were _jinrikisha_ men, and, more than that,
-they belonged to the despised class of the coolies. Before you have
-travelled long in Japan you will become very familiar with the
-two-wheeled conveyance which has become an institution of the country,
-and will take a patriotic interest in it, for it is reported to be the
-invention of an American. It is a low carriage with shafts, in which
-a toiling coolie acceptably fills the place of a horse, and it is
-preferred by the Japanese to the most elaborate coach-and-four of the
-West. It was for this position in the world that Cho and Eba were born,
-and in this capacity they proved indispensable to us.
-
-It was at our landing that we met them for the first time, and had our
-first _jinrikisha_ ride. As you step upon the soil of Japan, you will
-see a long row of these carriages with shafts resting on the ground,
-and at the same time a corresponding row of unobtrusive natives who
-accost you with a most respectful air. They have been sitting between
-the shafts, with their hands around their knees, patiently awaiting the
-landing of the boat, when they know their services will be required to
-conduct the passengers to the Grand Hotel. They have spent the time in
-laughing at each other and cracking Japanese jokes, for the amount of
-merriment they can get out of life seems without end. If the air is
-cold, they will be wrapped up in blankets, and will remind you of our
-western Indians; but oftener their covering consists of the simple blue
-tights which will become so familiar to you in the days to come. If you
-are so unfortunate as to land on a rainy day, they will throw this
-aside for a covering of straw with bare feet and legs; but the weather
-will not affect their spirits at all, and they will sit with the water
-pouring down upon them, and crack the same old jokes, and laugh with
-an appreciation to which the sunshine can add nothing. They wear the
-regulation mushroom hat, with their name and number inscribed across
-the front.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-You will, of course, immediately call to mind the hackmen of the West,
-but more by way of contrast than comparison. The duties of each are
-in a large measure the same, but here they are exercised in a way
-that is entirely different. The Japs have none of the disagreeable
-aggressiveness of their western contemporaries; they are quiet and
-polite, preferring, indeed, that you should take the initiative in
-the transaction. It is very interesting to watch the outcome of a
-rivalry that sometimes occurs when two of the coolies hit upon the same
-patron. The angry dispute to which many of us are accustomed never
-takes place; they treat each other to smiles instead of scowls, and the
-unsuccessful aspirant leaves with a laugh to find a more appreciative
-customer. During my stay in Japan I hardly ever saw a discontented or
-angry _jinrikisha_ man, and if a genial smile and gentle manners are
-an indication of inward happiness, they are the happiest mortals it has
-been my lot to meet.
-
-All this is very well, and yet it is with some hesitation that you
-decide to surrender yourself into the care of one of those unpromising
-equipages, and it was my first impulse to look around and see if
-something less oriental could not be had; but I quickly reproved
-myself, and remembered that I was in Japan. Meanwhile, my companion had
-arranged the matter, and I saw a little old man smilingly approaching,
-dragging the dreaded _jinrikisha_ behind him. His face was sadly
-wrinkled, his moustache was small and grizzled, and when he lifted his
-hat I saw that his hair was white. His spirit, however, seemed very
-buoyant, and not to have suffered from the many years of toil that
-would occasionally make his step a little unsteady. I felt a natural
-hesitation about permitting this little old man to drag me about the
-city; but the almost paternal air with which he assisted me into the
-carriage made me feel more at ease. Glancing at his cap, I saw that my
-new acquaintance bore the name of “Cho.”
-
-I had hardly been comfortably seated when I saw my companion ride
-past, borne by much nimbler and more youthful legs than those of my
-poor old Cho. Riding in Japan is the most unsocial thing in the world.
-Each traveller has a _jinrikisha_ to himself, and the carriages are
-compelled by law to move in single file, so that the streets may not
-be blockaded. It is true that they will sometimes hold more than one
-person; but these conveyances are meant for the Japanese alone, who
-are so light that two can be carried by one man. The constant parade
-of the _jinrikishas_, therefore, through a large thoroughfare, is very
-interesting. It makes no difference how many people there may be in
-your party; one must follow another in regular order, or your offending
-coolie may find himself in the lock-up before the day is over. You
-can easily see the disadvantages of this state of affairs; it makes
-conversation almost impossible,--and who can travel with pleasure if he
-cannot talk?
-
-Both for this reason and for another, which I afterwards learned,
-I soon lost sight of my companion, whose more sprightly attendant
-speedily left my veteran in the background. Cho made little effort to
-gain a position ahead of his fellows, but leisurely fell into line,
-and trotted along with the contentment of old age. As I knew that my
-forerunner was looking for rooms, I was not greatly annoyed.
-
-I arrived at last, bringing up the rear; and as we stood there
-congratulating ourselves, the younger man slowly approached us. Eba
-had a face of unusual intelligence, and his eyes sparkled in a way
-that contrasted forcibly with the dreamy blinking of Cho. His whole
-appearance was less conservative. Under his _kimono_ he wore something
-that had a resemblance to western trousers, and he had discarded the
-mushroom-hat for a peaked cap like that of a college student. His every
-feature bore evidence of a keen though kindly disposition; his hair was
-thick and wiry, his eyebrows heavy, his mouth large and firm. He had a
-way of darting sharp glances at you that immediately let you know that
-here was a man who was not likely to bring up last in a _’rikisha_ or
-any other race.
-
-He bowed profoundly, with a smile, and said,--
-
-“Please you have me to-morrow.”
-
-My companion murmured that he might if he was a good man.
-
-“Oh, yes; me very good man. Can run fast.”
-
-“What is your name?”
-
-“My name Eba; can run very fast.”
-
-He had already given evidence of this, and he was told to be on
-hand the next morning. He bowed again, and moved on. But he had
-an unsatisfied air, and in a hesitating way he turned around and
-approached us once more.
-
-“Cho, you know,” he said, with an anxious though somewhat downcast
-face, “Cho very good man too.”
-
-And he looked at me appealingly.
-
-“Yes,” I returned, “Cho is a very good man.”
-
-“Cho not quick like me,” he returned, somewhat reassured; “but a very
-good man. Cho old.”
-
-After he had given us this information he waited for a few moments,
-meditatively digging his bare toes into the sand. Finally he came to
-the point.
-
-“Me bring Cho to-morrow? Very good man. My friend.”
-
-We told him that we would be very glad to see Cho also; and with a face
-beaming with smiles, and the most exaggerated of bows, Eba took his
-leave.
-
-This was the beginning of our acquaintance with these two friends, and
-we grew to be very fond of them during the weeks that followed. They
-were most assiduous in their attentions, devoting to us all their
-time. The first thing we saw every morning as we glanced out of the
-window, were the forms of our coolies gracefully reposing in their
-shafts, waiting until it was our pleasure to take a ride. Eba was of a
-light-hearted temperament, and was always laughing and joking with Cho,
-who received his advances with a sedate air more suited to his greater
-age. We had already had a touching example of the filial care with
-which the younger looked after the older man, and this was only one of
-many. I tried several times to learn whether there was any particular
-relationship which necessitated this attention, but never discovered
-that there was anything beyond a congenial sense of comradeship. We may
-be sure that Cho was not the only one who profited by this, for Eba
-was of a more impulsive nature, which might have done many foolish
-things had it not been for the sage advice of his senior. He always
-treated him with the utmost respect, and his attentions were those of
-an affectionate son.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-I had been frequently told that the Japanese were a people of little
-natural emotion, and that their extreme expression of respect and
-affection was merely the national idea of politeness. When I think of
-this I always call to mind our two humble friends, and the genuine
-attachment I am confident they still have for us. The two men’s
-natures were as widely different as their ages; Cho was the practical
-man, and thought that the best way he could manifest his affection
-was by polishing up the _jinrikisha_ wheels to a dazzling brightness,
-or by running up a difficult hill with unusual rapidity; but Eba more
-romantically permitted himself little attentions in the way of Japanese
-nosegays, and in pointing out unusual and attractive features of the
-scene. Cho kept a careful eye on our business affairs, would drop
-many a quiet hint on the practices of the shopmen, and thought that
-the greatest kindness he could do us was to prevent the impositions
-of his crafty countrymen. It was evident that he despised the more
-artistic nature of his companion, and at one time I feared that their
-friendship might suffer from the little rivalry that was going on. As
-Eba’s nosegays increased in size, our carriage wheels grew brighter and
-brighter, and when Eba was spending a large part of his time pointing
-out new and interesting scenes, Cho seemed to be seeking unknown curio
-shops from which to warn us to keep away.
-
-Eba was more intelligent than Cho, and was always ready to talk. He
-told me that he could read and write Japanese, having attended school
-between the ages of eight and twelve. He was twenty-two years old,
-and had dragged _’rikishas_ for about six years. He now worked for a
-company at three yen a month, but he was working hard, and in time
-hoped to save up enough money to buy his own carriage and be his own
-master. In addition to his business capacity, he had a quick eye
-for what was really fine, and always used the utmost taste in the
-selection of his bouquets.
-
-On one occasion he was delightfully æsthetic. We had been riding in
-a suburban district, and the roads were lined with wild-flowers. We
-paused a moment for a little rest, and lounged around in the grass in
-various attitudes of ease. I grieve to record that Cho leaned his head
-against a tree and went to sleep, but I have a better tale to tell of
-Eba. I could see him wandering around at a short distance, picking now
-and then a flower, which he arranged with the utmost care. He seemed
-to bestow a large amount of thought on every fresh addition, rejecting
-many a posy that he had selected, and starting on a new search for
-something he had not yet found. Finally satisfied, he returned and
-presented me with the result. It was a little bouquet not as large as
-your thumb, but perfect in every detail. It was surrounded by a thin
-border of green, and the flowers were the tiniest I had yet seen in
-this land of tiny things. The production was a real work of art, and
-could never have been accomplished but by a man of inherent delicacy.
-It seemed almost a sacrilege after this that my tasteful friend should
-be subjected to the indignity of lifting the _’rikisha_ shafts, and
-toiling up the steep hills like an ordinary soul.
-
-Eba’s attachment was a kind that manifested itself in smiles. The
-profoundness of his bow was also an excellent gauge of his devotion;
-had anything happened the day before to jar upon his sensitive nature,
-his body would be sure to incline itself a little more stiffly
-than usual. These little congelations would occur when the spray
-of cherry-blossoms that he had laid on our sitting-room table had
-remained unnoticed, or when we had declined an offer to take a sunset
-ride. When all was sailing smoothly on, however, his bow was a thing
-in which his whole body played a part, and his smile would often
-degenerate into a grin. I was curious to know something about his
-home-life; but my questions elicited no confidences. I often wondered
-where he stole away in the night-time, and what his own domestic ties
-might be. But I never learned; whenever the morning came, there he sat
-between the shafts of his _jinrikisha_, with the sleepy Cho at his
-side, and this was the only glance I could get into the manner of his
-life.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-In other more tangible ways, however, did Eba display his kindly
-spirit. He early learned my admiration for the mountain of Fujiyama,
-and the desire I felt to view it under the most promising
-circumstances. It is not the easiest thing in the world to see this
-capricious peak, owing to the dense mist that almost constantly
-envelops it; you have to await your chance, which is not likely to
-come many times. Eba took it upon himself to keep a careful watch of
-affairs, and spent a large part of his time with his eyes towards
-the West. One day he ran into my room in the utmost excitement, and
-going to the window pulled the curtain aside, with the air of a
-long-nourished wish fulfilled.
-
-“Come, Mississy, quick,” he exclaimed. “See Fuji!”
-
-And there was Fuji indeed, towering in the golden sunset, its outlines
-clearly marked against the sky, and its summit wrapped in glistening
-snow.
-
-But his attachment still expressed itself most touchingly in flowers.
-I know he kept a careful eye upon me to see what I did with his
-offerings, and when I occasionally wore one of his bouquets, his smiles
-and bows reached their highest extravagance. One morning he appeared
-early at the door with a beaming face, though it bore evidence of some
-anxiety, as if he had formed a plan of the success of which he was
-doubtful.
-
-“Come, Mississy,” he said, pointing to the awaiting _jinrikisha_.
-
-But I was too busy that day, and told him I could not go. He seemed
-almost ready to cry, and looked up to me again appealingly.
-
-“Some other day, Eba,” I returned.
-
-“No, no,--to-day. Cannot see to-morrow.”
-
-After a little further conversation, I decided to spend a few moments
-this way, and so stepped into the _jinrikisha_. He started off in high
-glee, and ran at a pace that would have terrified me had any other than
-Eba held the shafts. One or two small children who were so unfortunate
-as to be in his way were overturned with a single thrust of his arm and
-went rolling over into the gutter. Eba laughed loudly at his little
-joke, and shouted lustily to Cho, who passed us with a perplexed and
-disapproving shake of the head. Finally we drew up before a florist’s
-shop, and Eba proudly led the way to the shrine of his peculiar
-pilgrimage.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-He stopped before a small potted plant, and pointed at it with a
-smile. I was amazed to see a tiny pine-tree not over six inches high,
-but perfectly formed in the smallest detail. I had seen many other
-Japanese experiments in minuteness, but this surpassed them all. Eba
-was delighted with my satisfaction, and informed me that this thrifty
-dwarf had been growing for many years. It was to be on exhibition for
-that day only, and this explained his anxiety that I should visit the
-shop that morning.
-
-When I told my two friends that we were to leave Yokohama, and spend
-a few weeks in China, their faces suddenly fell, and only brightened
-when I added that our journey would be a short one, and that we should
-expect to see them on our return. They carefully inquired when we were
-to go, and the exact time we were to stay. We thought little of this
-until, after having spent the allotted number of days in the land of
-the pig-tail, we rode into the station at Yokohama. During my absence
-I had given many a thought to the two friends, and wondered whether
-their thoughts of us had vanished when we ourselves left their sight.
-I was somewhat surprised, as well as pleased, as the train drew in, to
-see two familiar figures enjoying the old-time repose between the same
-_jinrikisha_ shafts. They were Cho and Eba, who eagerly came forward
-as the train drew to a stop, and scanned the passengers. One or two
-of those alighting tried to engage their services, but in vain. Eba
-first caught sight of us, and came up bowing, smilingly followed by the
-less demonstrative Cho, whose face, however, disclosed that he was a
-delighted man. Eba later informed us that they had carefully counted
-the days and the trains, and had hit upon the exact time that we should
-return.
-
-And now there were more bouquets, more smiles and bows, and more
-polishing of _jinrikisha_ wheels. Again did Eba keep a watchful eye
-upon Fuji, and many a glimpse of the majestic mountain did I owe to
-him. But the time came when all this had to end, and when we must sail
-away from Japan for home. They realised this with regret at least,
-and during the last few days were more attentive than ever before.
-Steamer-day came at last, when we should have to bid farewell to our
-friends, perhaps forever. Eba and Cho were not the only ones to regret
-the parting. They had become such familiar companions, and had served
-us so faithfully, that we disliked to think that we should see them no
-more.
-
-Early in the morning of the day of separation I heard a gentle knock
-at the door. When I opened it I could see nothing at first but a huge
-bouquet of beautiful Japanese roses. Presently the roses bowed up
-and down, and I heard a familiar voice come from behind them. “For
-Mississy.” It was Eba’s farewell present!
-
-Cho, softened a little at the thought of parting, was also without, and
-both came into the room and helped us pack our trunks, and performed
-various little acts of kindness. The ride along the Bund was the
-slowest we ever took; Eba had lost much of his sprightliness, and Cho’s
-poor old legs lagged more than ever. They insisted on going aboard the
-boat with us, and tried to find pretext after pretext for remaining,
-long after their usefulness was over. Finally the last blast of the
-steam whistle was heard, and Cho and Eba reluctantly moved away.
-
-“Good-bye, Eba! Good-bye, Cho! Perhaps we shall return some day.”
-
-“Good-bye, Mississy.”
-
-I offered Eba my hand. It was probably the first experience of the kind
-he had ever had, and he looked at it with a puzzled air. Finally he
-just touched it with the tips of his copper fingers, and sadly bowed
-himself away.
-
-[Illustration: SAYONARA]
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a
-predominant preference was found in the original book; otherwise they
-were not changed.
-
-Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced quotation
-marks were remedied when the change was obvious, and otherwise left
-unbalanced.
-
-Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs
-and outside quotations.
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Dragons and Cherry Blossoms, by Mrs. Robert C. Morris</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Dragons and Cherry Blossoms</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Mrs. Robert C. Morris</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: June 11, 2022 [eBook #68287]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
-  <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlie Howard and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DRAGONS AND CHERRY BLOSSOMS ***</div>
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<p class="center larger">Transcriber’s Note</p>
-
-<p>Larger versions of most illustrations may be seen by right-clicking them
-and selecting an option to view them separately, or by double-tapping and/or
-stretching them. <span class="x-ebookmaker-drop">When text follows the contours of an illustration, a larger
-version of that illustration may be seen by clicking or right-clicking the
-word “<i>Larger</i>” just below the illustration.</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<h1>
-DRAGONS<br />
-<span class="small">AND</span><br />
-CHERRY-BLOSSOMS<br />
-</h1>
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<div id="i_003" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img src="images/i_003.jpg" width="1620" height="2485" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">
-    <p class="xlarge smcap l4">
-      Dragons<br />
-      <span class="small in2">and</span><br />
-      <span class="in2">Cherry</span><br />
-      <span class="in6">Blossoms</span>
-    </p>
-    <p class="p2 in8 dbox">
-      By<br />
-      Mrs. Robert<br />
-      C. Morris<br />
-      <br />
-      <span class="smaller">New York<br />
-      Dodd, Mead<br />
-      &amp; Company<br />
-      1896</span>
-    </p>
-  </div>
-</div></div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p class="newpage p4 vspace center">
-<i>Copyright, 1896</i>,<br />
-<span class="smcap">By Dodd, Mead and Company</span>.<br />
-
-<i>All rights reserved.</i></p>
-
-<p class="p4 center"><span class="bold">University Press:</span><br />
-<span class="smcap">John Wilson and Son, Cambridge, U.S.A.</span>
-</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p class="newpage p4 center vspace smaller gesperrt">
-TO<br />
-<span class="large">MY HUSBAND.</span>
-</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="i_008" class="newpage chapter figcenter" style="max-width: 36em;">
-  <img src="images/i_008.jpg" width="2261" height="1192" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">Clad in native costume.</div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="smcap">Many</span> have been before me, and the theme
-of this volume can hardly be called new, for
-Japan has been viewed from every side and
-through all kinds of eyes. This, however, has
-not deterred me from jotting down a few
-observations and experiences of my own, hoping
-that in them my readers may feel some
-rays of the Orient sunshine and beauty.
-</p>
-
-<p>I desire to thank Mr. Burton J. Hendrick
-for the kind and sympathetic aid given upon
-the manuscript.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter gesperrt">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<table id="toc">
-<tr class="smaller">
-  <td> </td>
-  <td class="tdr"><span class="smcap">Page</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Foreign Residents</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_15">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Shopping</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_49">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Our Dinner at Kioto</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_81">81</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Miyako Odori</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_109">109</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">The Rise and Fall of the Kakemono</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_141">141</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">A Glimpse of Royalty</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_173">173</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Fin de Siècle Japan</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_209">209</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Cho and Eba</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_239">239</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_15" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span></p>
-<div id="ip_15" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21em;">
-  <img src="images/i_015.jpg" width="1337" height="893" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREIGN_RESIDENTS">FOREIGN RESIDENTS.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Your</span> visit to Japan is likely to be
-a succession of surprises. Our
-discovery of the country is so recent
-that the large amount of literature on
-the subject frequently fails to change
-your childhood impression of that distant
-land. European travellers often
-entertain us with their ideas of America
-as an uncultivated waste with an
-occasional hastily constructed town,
-in which the red man is still to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>
-seen; and my notions of the land of
-the Mikado were somewhat similar.
-I could never think of the Orient
-without thinking of the mushroom
-hat; and for me Japan meant a succession
-of bamboo huts, almond-eyed
-men with long and low-hanging
-moustaches, an occasional china cup,
-and now and then a strangely decorated
-fan. I was not at all sure that
-it was a hospitable shore to visit; I
-understood that heads were removed
-there upon the slightest provocation.
-My earliest knowledge was gained
-from the paper lanterns that were the
-delight of Fourth-of-July celebrations,
-and those remarkably
-adorned napkins familiar
-to patrons of
-church fairs. I was
-also frequently called
-upon to make Sunday-School
-contributions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>
-for the conversion of these abandoned
-souls, and have vivid recollections of
-listening to many addresses by daring
-spirits, who had actually returned
-from the dangerous soil. After such
-occasions as these, I always looked
-upon the principal occupation of the
-Japanese as the stoning of missionaries.
-As I grew older, I tried to
-educate myself into different ideas,
-but all the books that I read, and
-even an occasional Japanese friend
-that I made, did not succeed in doing
-away with my childish fancies.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_17" class="figleft" style="max-width: 10em;">
-  <img src="images/i_016.jpg" width="638" height="1014" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>And so, when I found myself sailing
-into the Port of Yokohama one
-bright April morning, the ideal Japan
-of years gone by was what was uppermost
-in my mind. At first I thought
-there must be some mistake, for there
-was nothing to be seen in this harbour
-to correspond with the strange delights
-of my dreams. Not a single<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span>
-one-storied, thatched house, such as
-used to grace the pages of my geography,
-was visible on the shore.
-Everything, as far as I could see, was
-the same as the entrance to an European
-seaport. The long array of
-wharves might perhaps be missing,
-but there was many a ship built on
-western lines, and occasionally a small
-steam-tug went puffing by, the whistle
-blowing as naturally as in any
-western harbour. And, even as I
-looked beyond all this, towards the
-shore, there was no visible sign that
-I had reached Japan. “Those people
-who make pictures of Japanese life
-do not tell the truth,” I thought to
-myself, completely bewildered. When
-I landed, I found large brick houses
-of a most occidental kind, and shops
-fitted out in the regular English style.
-Not only were the outward evidences
-of life most un-Japanese, but few of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>
-the people passing up and down the
-street had the almond eyes, the short,
-wiry hair, or the olive complexion that
-I had quitted America to see; and
-young nurse girls wheeled about little
-carriages containing the same kind of
-babies that I had left three thousand
-miles away. Children in little trim
-English clothes, with their little English
-bare legs, were walking about and
-occasionally disappearing behind English
-hedges into houses of a distinctly
-Queen Anne type.</p>
-
-<p>While I was surveying all this with
-a startled air, I was delighted and relieved
-by the sight of several small
-Orientals who ran quickly up to the
-wharf, dragging behind them peculiar
-two-wheeled conveyances. Yes,
-after all, here was some indication of
-the thing for which I had been looking;
-these were men of Japan, it
-was true, but hardly the Japanese of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span>
-whom I had dreamed. They seemed
-rather out of place in this European
-city, and did not assume an aggressive
-air at all, as they politely offered
-to carry us to the hotel in their strange
-vehicles.</p>
-
-<p>The explanation of this state of
-affairs is, however, very satisfactory.
-When you reach Yokohama, you land
-at what is called the Settlement, which
-is the portion of the city set aside by
-the Government for the foreign residents.
-Japan itself is situated back
-of this, and there, if you jump again
-into your <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> and take another
-ride, you will find that it is Japan
-indeed.</p>
-
-<p>There is one great hotel at Yokohama,—a
-genuine European importation,
-with large parlours, reading and
-sitting rooms, electric lights and bells.
-Your <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> man immediately takes
-it for granted that you wish to stop<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>
-at the Grand Hotel, and without waiting
-for instructions, hurries you off
-to Ni-jiu-ban, as it is called in the
-vernacular. You will probably arrive
-during the season of travel, and so be
-enabled to see the house at its best.
-If one or two of the foreign ships are
-in the harbour, and the officers come
-ashore, a scene of unusual attractiveness
-is sure to follow. A military
-band plays during dinner, commonly
-discoursing the patriotic airs of the
-different nations, though a well-known
-western march is frequently interspersed.
-The rooms are trimmed
-with flowers; there are ladies in
-bright, pretty gowns, men in evening
-dress, and Japanese “boys” in blue
-tights, white coats, and stocking feet.
-The gathering is decidedly cosmopolitan.
-You can talk with an American
-on stocks, an Englishman on golf, a
-Frenchman on Panama, or a Russian<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span>
-on the Triple Alliance. If you only
-step out on the piazza and take a
-short stroll, you will have a fine opportunity
-to gratify your taste for
-contrast, for it will be stepping from
-the Occident to the Orient. Perhaps
-the moon is shining—and the moon
-seems to shine differently in Japan
-than at home. There, below you, lies
-the land you thought you were being
-cheated out of; there are the small
-one-storied houses, the narrow streets,
-all bathed in the silence that so well
-fits your mood. A few lights are
-blinking below, but for the most
-part you see only what the moonlight
-cares to reveal. Off in the harbour are
-large shadowy forms which you know
-are western vessels, and your spirit
-feels a touch of old-fashioned patriotism
-at the thought that one of them
-is flying the American flag. The
-sound of the music comes from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>
-distance, and you know that the dancing
-has begun; but you care little at
-the present time for such occidental
-diversions.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_23" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21em;">
-  <img src="images/i_023.jpg" width="1302" height="1116" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>In the morning the sun will probably
-be shining in a truly oriental way,
-and you think it might be well to take
-a drive. Probably the first thing you
-will see, will be a large number of
-young Japanese girls, apparently out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span>
-for a walk. Though they are clad in
-their own native costumes and have
-a general appearance that is decidedly
-Japanese, there is yet an air about
-them suggestive of the West. You
-puzzle over the matter for some time,
-and at last, with a sudden burst of
-intelligence, exclaim: “A boarding-school.”
-And you are right; these
-young girls are being trained in the
-usages of the best English society, and
-have begun to dabble in French and
-algebra in a true boarding-school style.
-As they pass you by and you go on, you
-will see many small children attended
-by Japanese <i class="translit">amahs</i>, and baby carriages
-meet you everywhere. There are also
-a few shops scattered around, and
-looking to the left you will see the
-British flag waving above the marine
-hospital. A little further on, your
-heart gives a bound, for you see the
-stars and stripes waving in the breeze,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>
-and you think that being an American
-is not so bad after all, whatever the
-foreigner may say of our confusion of
-“baggage” and “luggage” and our
-use of ice-water at dinner. It is the
-American hospital, a large, old-fashioned
-building, comfortable and home-like,
-with a garden filled with flowers
-and tropical plants. You can look
-from here into the bay, and the ship
-so dimly perceived the night before,
-you see is the “Baltimore.” You
-keep in the road, pass more Queen
-Anne houses and pretty green hedges,
-and an occasional bungalow; and further
-on you meet a park that has been
-laid out by the foreigners. Here are
-more baby carriages and bare legged
-children, and several prettily arranged
-tennis courts in which the players are
-enjoying themselves in a genuine
-English way.</p>
-
-<p>It is probably a holiday, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>
-people will soon turn out for a celebration.
-It is hard to find a day in
-Japan that is not a holiday. It is well
-to know this before you visit the
-country, or you will be very much
-inconvenienced. You will be likely
-to visit the bank, and be much surprised
-to find it closed. “Why?”
-you will ask a friend, and he will
-answer: “It is a holiday.” And
-what is the day celebrated? Perhaps
-the fall of the Bastile; perhaps the
-discovery of the Gunpowder Plot;
-perhaps Washington’s birthday, the
-Fourth of July, or one of the innumerable
-sacred days of the Japanese. The
-trouble is that there are so many different
-nationalities in Japan, each
-demanding that certain events be
-respectfully observed, that only on
-about one-third of the calendar days
-can business be transacted. It is a
-country of a perennial holiday. There<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>
-are a great many ways in which
-properly to observe these occasions,
-and a large number of entertainments
-are arranged. If you wish, you can
-attend the theatre,—not the anciently-established
-institution of the
-country, but a genuine play, such as
-you sometimes see in the Occident.
-I qualify the statement because I think
-it seldom that you will permit yourself
-to attend such execrable performances
-at home as draw crowded
-houses of intelligent people at Yokohama.
-They are given by strolling
-players on their way around the
-world, who stop at the principal Japanese
-cities and foist their wares upon
-a diversion-craving public. They entertain
-you with the misfortune of
-the “Forsaken Leah,” the mistakes
-and unavailing repentance of “Bob
-Briley,” the “Ticket-of-leave-man,”
-or you may have the opportunity of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span>
-weeping through five acts of “East
-Lynne,” or “The Elopement.” A
-minstrel show has been known to
-come ashore, and an exhibition of
-French marionettes is no uncommon
-sight.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps your nature requires a different
-kind of excitement; if so, you
-may attend the races. These are carried
-on in the true English style, and
-are very generously patronised. The
-occasions are holidays in themselves,
-and offer a sufficient excuse for the
-closing of the banks and stores. A
-race track has been laid out back of
-the residence portion of the city, and
-has an additional attractiveness in the
-fact that it commands an excellent
-view of the elusive Fuji. Foreigners
-turn out in full force, many coming
-down from Tokio. Often the Mikado
-honours the affair with his presence;
-he is always an interesting addition to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span>
-any event, but he is an inconvenient
-person to have around, owing to a
-peculiar phase of Japanese veneration.
-No one may hold his head higher than
-the Mikado, else his sacredness would
-be outraged; and the many attempts
-to make him tower above the rest
-of the populace frequently produce
-amusing complications. Such a predicament
-happened a short time ago,
-when the Mikado was on his way to
-the races. An American with more
-curiosity than knowledge of Japanese
-religious rites, thought it a fine opportunity
-to catch a glimpse of the
-royal person, and so elevated himself
-upon a box near by and awaited the
-procession. He had stood there some
-time, flattering himself upon the difference
-between American and Oriental
-intelligence, when his peace of mind
-was suddenly disturbed by a series of
-shouts, which, he divined from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>
-gesticulations, were directed towards
-himself. The constant motions to
-descend he regarded with a true Yankee
-stoicism, and it was not until the
-box was pulled from beneath his feet,
-that he was induced to pay the proper
-respect to the Majesty of Japan. The
-races themselves, with the little shaggy
-horses, have proved to be a very fertile
-means of entertainment. The
-riding is done to a considerable extent
-by the little Japs, who take to it
-quite readily, and make very acceptable
-jockeys.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_30" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_031.jpg" width="1602" height="2205" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">“The dainty <i class="translit">kimono</i>-clad forms.”</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>One of the most delightful events
-in the social life of the foreign residents
-of Yokohama is Regatta Day.
-All their pent-up enthusiasm seems to
-let itself out, and the numerous visiting
-vessels contribute to a most entertaining
-scene. The contests take
-place in the spring, and preparations
-are made many days in advance. The
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>vessels in the harbour are gayly decorated
-with flags and streamers; the
-wealthier classes turn out in their carriages,
-and the Bund is one mass of
-ladies and children in white dresses,
-intermingled by the dainty <i class="translit">kimono</i>-clad
-form of the Japanese. The hotel
-is impartially adorned with the colours
-of every nation, and the piazza is a
-varied scene of moving gayety. Every
-one does not attend the races behind
-the bluff, but Regatta Day is the one
-event of the season, and furnishes an
-excuse for considerably more than the
-nautical contests. The races themselves
-are perhaps not of sufficient
-importance to justify all this excitement,
-but Yokohama is very different
-from New York harbour. The day
-is bound to be clear, the sky is always
-of Italian deepness, and the sun never
-fails to shine down on the lively scene
-with a refreshing glow.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span></p>
-
-<p>Domestic life in Japan has its inconveniences;
-but it has also its
-more advantageous side. Do you
-wish to live in splendid style on a
-small income? You should dwell in
-the land where servants cost only
-four dollars a month. The life of the
-foreign residents in Japan is somewhat
-mysterious; the position of the
-mistress of the household eluded my
-investigations for a long time. “What
-do you do?” was a question I asked
-many of the ladies, but never received
-a satisfactory reply. After
-much thought I have come to the
-conclusion that the only thing your
-position requires of you is to sit in
-your parlour and amuse yourself as
-best you may; and when you wish
-anything done, simply clap your hands
-and cry “Boy.”</p>
-
-<p>This last word is the keynote to
-the situation. As soon as you have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>
-learned the word “Boy,” you have
-solved the whole problem of the European
-household in Japan. Everything
-centres around this important
-dignitary, whom even foreign innovation
-has not succeeded in abolishing.
-The “Boy” has edged his way into
-every foreign home in Japan, and his
-position is as firmly established as the
-homes themselves. He is one of the
-most indispensable domestic functionaries
-that have figured in history.
-But, in the first place, an excusable
-mistake must be corrected. The
-“Boy” is not a boy at all, but is
-simply called so in deference to custom.
-Most of the “Boys” have
-large families of their own, and I have
-seen many with white hair and
-wrinkled faces. He never seems to
-resent this youthful title, and would
-feel very much bewildered should you
-suddenly begin to call him “Man.”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>
-He appreciates his important position
-very keenly; he is no ordinary servant,
-but a man with thoughts of his
-own and the dignity of a household
-resting upon his shoulders.</p>
-
-<p>The whole thing is managed somewhat
-after this style: You receive
-an intimation that a few friends will
-dine with you, and this intimation is
-all about which you need trouble yourself.
-You never begin to think what
-you have to offer your guests, for you
-are not supposed to know anything
-about such things. You simply sit
-down, clap your hands and shout
-“Boy!” In a few moments the door
-will open and the person who bears
-this title presents himself. He approaches,
-bows lowly, and makes a
-single <span class="locked">ejaculation,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Heh!”</p>
-
-<p>This simply means that he is all
-attention. If you are inexperienced,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>
-you will get the idea that this word
-means “yes.” But you will have
-many opportunities later to correct
-your mistake. The Japanese says
-“Heh!” to signify that he is listening,
-and there his responsibility ends. He
-never commits himself.</p>
-
-<p>“I am going to have two friends
-to dinner,” you reply, and you give
-their names.</p>
-
-<p>“Heh!”</p>
-
-<p>He bows again, turns around, and
-leaves the room. That is all you have
-to do until the dinner hour arrives.
-Never make any suggestions; the
-“Boy” would be completely mystified
-by such a proceeding. The way
-he goes about everything is very picturesque.
-You understand that the
-man who has just made his exit is the
-head “Boy” or No. 1 “Boy.” He
-goes downstairs and begins to examine
-the possibilities for the dinner.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>
-Very likely he finds something lacking.
-If so, he immediately makes a
-call on No. 1 “Boy” next door, and
-returns with the supplementary dish
-needed to make the dinner a success.
-There exists a kind of free-masonry
-among the “Boys,” and what one
-cannot find in his own domain he
-feels no hesitation in borrowing from
-a friend near by. Your “Boy” then
-visits the “Boys” of the friends who
-are to dine with you and makes many
-interesting inquiries. He asks what
-their favourite wines are, and never
-hesitates to request a loan of their
-plate and linen. He usually also demands
-the cooks of your friends, and
-leads them off to your house in order
-that the dinner may be more satisfactorily
-prepared. Thus it happens
-that when your friends arrive they are
-very likely to eat your dinner cooked
-by their own servants and to see their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span>
-own china and linen gracing your
-table. More than this, the “Boys”
-of your friends are usually present and
-attend to their wants. The order of
-things will be reversed when you dine
-out.</p>
-
-<p>You see this “Boy” is a very convenient
-and important person, and as
-he is usually an intelligent man, everything
-goes smoothly on. Occasionally
-a difficulty arises owing to the
-fact that he has not a sufficient regard
-for the mistress of the house, and
-indeed it is a question whether he
-ever looks upon her as such. Japan
-has not yet learned to rate women at
-their true worth, and it is this sentiment
-that is at the bottom of the
-“Boy’s” reluctance to take orders
-from anyone but a man. Most of
-them are gradually coming around and
-will obey you, but a few conservative
-souls still remain. I had a friend who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>
-possessed a very worthy “Boy,”
-whose character was blemished by
-this one defect. She told him one
-day to remove a plant into an adjoining
-room. He bowed, said “Heh!”
-and departed. Some hours passed,
-and the plant was still unmoved. He
-was called in again, again he bowed,
-ejaculated the usual “Heh!” and left
-the room. My friend tried this
-several times, and succeeded in getting
-more bows and more “Hehs!” but
-the plant remained where it had been.
-She spoke to her husband about the
-matter, who called in the “Boy” and
-told him to remove the object of the
-dispute. The “Boy” bowed, said
-“Heh!” took the plant and carried it
-into an adjoining room. When asked
-to explain his previous disobedience,
-he said: “I will do it if master wishes
-it, heh!” and with a profound obeisance
-he retired.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span></p>
-
-<p>Another great enemy to domestic
-life is what is known as the “Squeeze.”
-This is not peculiar to the household,
-but is found in every part of the Japanese
-social system. The whole business
-of the country is run on a
-commission. Every time you buy
-anything, you have to pay several
-“squeezes,” or commissions, to the
-various people concerned in the transaction.
-No “Boy” will run an errand
-without his “squeeze,” and he
-uses a great deal of liberty in your
-domestic accounts. Should you send
-him out to buy a bouquet of flowers,
-he would always charge you as well as
-the florist a “squeeze” in the reckoning.
-The butcher who deals with you
-has to pay him a certain amount, and
-of course you are the one who suffers
-in the end. This is altogether independent
-of the profit of the goods,
-and often is little more than a personal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>
-consideration. Foreigners have
-made war many times against the
-“squeeze,” but their efforts have been
-unsuccessful. It seems to be a second
-nature with the Japanese; it is one
-of those good old customs that they
-will not let die. I had an iconoclastic
-friend who resolved that there should
-be no “squeezes” to impede her domestic
-calculations, and who decided
-upon a reform. She thought that she
-would begin modestly at first, and
-hit upon the lamps to experiment on.
-There is a very humble person whose
-occupation it is to go from door to
-door and fill all the lamps of his customers,
-but his pay is not too small
-to necessitate a little “squeeze” to
-the head “Boy” for the privilege.
-The lady in question decided to hire
-this boy directly, and for a time she
-thought the plan was succeeding remarkably
-well. One day, however,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>
-she found that her head “Boy” had
-a pleasing custom of making a round
-of the lamps every morning and removing
-a certain quantity of the oil.
-By selling what he procured this way,
-he recovered the “squeeze” of which
-he had been defrauded.</p>
-
-<p>The specialising tendency of the
-people is another thing particularly
-irritating to those who live in Japan.
-Such a thing as a man-of-all-work
-who goes around picking up odd
-jobs is an unknown phenomenon.
-You must have a large number of servants
-or you will get nothing done.
-A certain “Boy” puts the coal in the
-stove and another cooks the dinner.
-But the “Boy” who does the cooking
-would never touch the coal, if
-you had a dozen guests waiting upstairs.
-It is a matter of caste, and one
-occupation is immeasurably superior
-to another; at least, in the opinion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>
-of him who practises it. You have
-a “Boy” who takes care of the
-horses, but he would not understand
-you at all should you ask him to
-drive them. If a light needs turning
-up, and you request your head “Boy”
-to do it, he would never think of
-obeying. He would rather run two
-blocks to fetch the menial whose duties
-are along that line. I was told
-a story of a lady on shipboard, who
-requested her attending “Boy” to
-close an open port-hole. He answered
-“Heh!” and went out to search for
-the servant who attended to such matters.
-It took him fifteen minutes to
-find him, but he finally led him triumphantly
-in, and the port-hole was
-closed. It had never occurred to the
-former that he ought to do it himself;
-he had not been educated to that position
-in society, and it would have
-grated harshly against his sense of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span>
-the fitness of things to suggest that
-he was fully qualified to close port-holes.
-Every Japanese has a great
-pride in his task, knows his own
-place, and thinks that the greatest
-requirement of a virtuous life is that
-he does not interfere with the duties
-of others.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_45" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 28em;">
-  <img src="images/i_045.jpg" width="1729" height="645" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_49" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span></p>
-<div id="ip_49" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img src="images/i_049.jpg" width="1550" height="880" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="SHOPPING">SHOPPING.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">You</span> will have many friends who
-will give you a great deal of
-kindly advice before you leave for
-Japan. On no point will their suggestions
-be as plentiful as on the
-mooted question of shopping. With
-a knowledge born of experience, they
-will inform you that these almond-eyed
-Orientals are not the guileless
-souls that they may seem, and that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>
-beneath all their gentleness of manners
-there lies a keen wit which
-will tax your American sharpness to
-the utmost. They may perhaps go
-further and descend to particulars,
-and you will have the opportunity of
-learning the number of tricks you
-will be subjected to and the large
-amount of wares that are being reserved
-until you land. All this advice
-you will carefully note, and think that
-when you start down the streets of
-Tokio or Yokohama you have an advantage
-over your compatriots, and
-that you are secure from the dangers
-of early shopping in a new country.
-You have all the words of your friend
-in mind, and decide to wait several
-days before you make a single purchase.
-At about this point of your
-self-congratulations you will catch
-sight of a small two-story building,
-and for some inconceivable reason be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>
-attracted within. Perhaps it is the
-dainty sign over the door; perhaps
-the smiling face of the host, who
-looks upon you with so inviting an
-air; perhaps the ever-attendant evil
-spirit of shopping that has begun to
-work his baneful spell. At any rate,
-in a short time you find yourself in
-a small room surrounded by a delightful
-collection of
-bric-à-brac, with
-a cup of tea in
-your hand and
-the happy face
-of the proprietor
-beaming down
-upon you. An
-hour or two slips by, and when you
-leave you will suddenly discover that
-you have ordered a large part of the
-merchant’s wares, and that you have a
-neat little bill smilingly presented to
-you. It is not until you are in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>
-street again, or perhaps easefully reposing
-in your room at the hotel, that
-the whole terrible truth flashes upon
-you. You have done just what you
-were told not to do, and just what you
-had considered yourself firmly guarded
-against. A horrible suspicion crosses
-your mind. What if all those charming
-things you bought belonged to
-the worthless class your friend had
-so conscientiously warned you of;
-and what if the genial smile of the
-merchant were but the mask of a
-deceiving heart? In a day or two
-your suspicion will have been confirmed.
-The goods that you so
-rashly purchased will be given as a
-present to your attending “Boy,” and
-your shopping henceforth will become
-rather a scientific than an emotional
-affair.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_52" class="figright" style="max-width: 17em;">
-  <img src="images/i_051.jpg" width="1059" height="596" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>The Japanese are rapidly learning
-the proper use to be made of tourists,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>
-and are always ready to receive them.
-You will not have been long in your
-room when a gentle knock will be
-heard at the door, and a most obsequious
-Oriental will make his entrance.
-He will bow with the utmost
-profoundness, and present you with
-a card which contains his name and
-crest,—usually in the form of a
-teacup or fan. You return his gaze as
-kindly as possible. He says: “Please
-you come see my shop,” makes another
-bow, and retires. The whole scene is
-not unpleasing to you, and you are
-thinking it over as an interesting
-experience when another knock is
-heard. Another Jap of the same appearance
-as your former visitor now
-enters, makes a similar bow, gives
-you his card, says: “Please you come
-see my shop,” and as gracefully takes
-his leave. If you are wise you will
-now determine to receive no more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span>
-callers, for this sort of thing will be
-kept up all day, and you will have a
-varied assortment of cards before the
-evening comes. Your new friends
-are most scrupulously polite and have
-no air of bluster or eagerness; but
-they are quietly persistent, and would
-not think of passing you by without
-giving you a chance to learn of the
-advantages of their house. They
-keep a careful watch for the arrival
-of every new steamer, and trace all
-the passengers to the different hotels.
-The reputation of the American as
-the generous spender of millions is
-as firmly fixed in the minds of the
-Japanese as in those of less distant
-lands, and to them they give a large
-amount of attention.</p>
-
-<p>Indeed, it is generally assumed by
-everyone you meet that you have
-come to Japan to shop, and the
-kindest favour he can do you is to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span>
-show you how and where you can
-do so with the best results. Even
-the humble coolie, who carries you
-around in your <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>, firmly believes
-this, and thinks that if he is in
-a small measure the means of your
-making a happy purchase, his way
-into your affections is won. If you
-tell him in the morning that you wish
-to take a ride, he will tuck you comfortably
-in and start at a rapid pace
-towards the main thoroughfare of the
-city. You will be quietly enjoying
-everything you see, and will, perhaps,
-be somewhat surprised when the
-coolie suddenly stops before one of
-those two-story buildings with which
-you are now so familiar, and glances
-up into your face with the most self-congratulating
-expression. If you do
-not immediately descend and enter
-the shop, he will suddenly become
-crestfallen, and wear a look that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>
-means that you are quite unable to
-appreciate a favour, and do not know
-a good thing when you see it. The
-chances are, however, that you will
-feel an invisible force attracting you
-within the little shop, and so leave
-your coolie without, a happy man.</p>
-
-<p>If you are in Japan during a period
-of silver depression, you are a very
-unfortunate person indeed. You
-have perhaps visited the bank the
-day before and changed a thousand
-dollars of your gold into two thousand
-dollars of silver, and this unexpected
-increase in your worldly
-possessions is the very worst thing
-that could have happened to you.
-For you are likely to get the idea
-that you can now afford to be a little
-extravagant; that you have just twice
-as much money as you had before,
-and that you would be a very stingy
-person, did you not scatter a little of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>
-it about. You have probably, however,
-one advantage in the fact that
-you have shopped before, and do not
-think that there is much danger that
-the experience of a few days ago will
-be repeated. By this time your respect
-for your anxious friend, who so
-vainly gave you his advice, has greatly
-increased; and you decide that when
-you return you will make a point of
-breathing the same gentle counsel in
-the ears of all you meet who are on
-their way to the land of the cherry-blossom
-and the almond-eyed sharper.</p>
-
-<p>The street in which most of the
-shops are found has the delicious
-local flavour that seldom fails to entice
-the unwary purchaser. The
-thoroughfare is very narrow, and is
-lined by two rows of shed-like buildings
-adorned in front by hanging
-cloth signs. Many of these signs
-are inscribed with the name of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>
-keeper, who does not confine himself
-to the Japanese characters, but frequently
-spells himself out in English,—a
-thing that you are likely to take
-as a personal compliment to yourself.
-The cloths are also sometimes covered
-with emblematic figures representative
-of the goods sold within.
-There are grotesque and unheard
-of birds; armour, and paintings representing
-the god of money and good
-luck. The lower story of the house
-is probably open to the street, but it
-is sometimes hidden by a curtain of
-blue and white, which an attendant
-lifts to allow you to enter. Really,
-there is nothing in all this that tells
-you of the treasures that lie beyond,
-but you have a sensation which for
-the time being seems uncontrollable.
-Sometimes, on a holiday, the whole
-scene may be changed, and by the
-addition of a large number of paper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>
-lanterns and clusters of wistaria and
-cherry-blossoms an element of festivity
-is introduced. But the grotesque
-methods of advertising that you are
-familiar with as an American, are unknown
-to the Japanese, and utterly
-distasteful to their sense of propriety.
-Even in the marking of prices they
-exercise the greatest taste, using little
-thin strips of cloth with the cost of
-the article painted in blue. This,
-however, you do not see until you
-enter the shop. The proprietor will
-receive you with the utmost politeness,
-but there is no sign of unpleasant
-aggressiveness in his behaviour.
-He views your visit both from a
-social and business point of view,
-and esteems your notice of him as a
-personal favour. Even though you do
-not buy, he always takes pleasure in
-showing what he has to sell. He
-likes to have you show some appreciation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span>
-of his goods; and if you have
-done this, you can leave without
-buying a thing and be sure of as
-warm a welcome when you return.
-One demand he will make of you,
-and that is, that you take plenty of
-time. He likes to talk and discuss,
-and seems dissatisfied unless you
-consider the transaction as one of
-great importance and worthy of much
-meditation. The hurried visits that
-he sometimes receives from Americans,
-who rush in and wish to do
-everything in a few moments, utterly
-bewilder him. He is willing to spend
-a whole day with a single customer,
-and never shows any impatience except
-when you are in a hurry. He
-greets you with a profound bow, and
-smilingly places his shop at your disposal.
-He usually has one or two
-assistants who keep at a respectful
-distance until their services are required.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>
-The host is very quiet, and
-does not begin to praise everything
-in the room, but calmly calls your
-attention to each article, and relies
-upon your own good taste to see its
-virtues. His first floor is usually
-given up to a large display of ancient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>
-armour and swords, each piece with a
-history of its own, and speaking terrible
-tales of the good old fighting
-days of the Shoguns. There are
-grotesque and grinning masks that
-the most stoical temperament cannot
-gaze at without shuddering, and frequent
-representations of the Japanese
-conception of the Devil that make
-you suddenly turn your back and
-become interested in something of a
-less religious aspect. The weapons
-are what delight many a warlike
-spirit; Japan has always been famous
-for its steel, and many of these
-swords might make one think that
-the days of the famous blades of old
-had returned. All these are now, of
-course, as antique to the Japanese as
-to ourselves, for their usefulness, except
-as interesting curios, has been
-replaced by the more prosaic implements
-of modern warfare.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_63" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 17em;">
-  <img src="images/i_061.jpg" width="1032" height="1472" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>If you are a woman you will not
-be likely to buy any of these articles
-of war, and you will find it a
-relief to escape the fiery eyes and
-low-hanging tongue of that mask in
-the corner. The proprietor calls your
-attention to a rickety staircase, and
-invites you to ascend into the second
-story. By so doing, you will soon
-find yourself in a little room which
-reveals altogether a different sight
-to the one below. You have left
-the domain of war and blood, and
-are now surrounded by suggestions
-of religion and art. There are Buddhas
-of every kind,—wooden, bronze,
-and gold; there are dainty little tea-pots,
-porcelains, candlesticks, and
-altar-pieces, to satisfy the most exacting
-taste; there are highly-polished
-mirrors gracing the walls, and another
-collection of swords, of a perhaps less
-warlike appearance than those below.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>
-The scene has graceful touches, for
-the small children of the family are
-huddled together on the floor, amusing
-themselves with such Japanese
-playthings as grasshoppers and
-crickets. These are their dolls, and
-they would never lay them aside for
-the less animated toys of the Western
-world. The wife of the proprietor
-is always at hand, who supplements
-the bows of her husband with
-dimpled smiles of her own, and who
-treats you with a respect that is not
-too distant to be friendly. She is
-sitting on the floor in front of a small
-<i class="translit">hibachi</i>. You have not been in the
-room long before you hear that little
-quiet steaming that you now know
-so well, and soon the little woman
-rises and, with a smile and bow,
-leaves the room.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_64" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_065.jpg" width="1511" height="2601" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">“The wife of the Proprietor.”</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>All this is very delightful, and it
-requires all your presence of mind
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>and the recollections of a previous
-day’s experience to keep you from
-falling into a snare. You know very
-well that all these dazzling things
-about you have more glitter than
-gold, and that they are manufactured
-expressly for unknowing foreigners,
-such as you are assumed to be. You
-may be sure, that there are finer
-goods than these, kept carefully out
-of sight. The merchants never display
-their choicest wares on the
-shelves, but have them neatly tied
-up in boxes in an adjoining room.
-In some way you hint to your suave
-friend that you have shopped before,
-and are perfectly familiar with the
-peculiar tricks of the trade. All this
-he receives with an intelligent smile,
-and asks you to seat yourself. If
-you look around for a chair you will
-betray yourself as less experienced
-than you claim, so you had better<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>
-drop at once on your heels; for by
-doing so, you will immediately gain
-a point in the good graces of your
-host.</p>
-
-<p>And now a delicate patter is heard
-on the stairs, and the little woman
-who left a few moments ago returns.
-She has a small tray full of cups and
-sweetmeats, which she deposits on
-the floor as she sits down in front
-of you. The proprietor joins the
-group, and occasionally one or two
-of the children forego their grasshoppers
-and crickets, and supply the
-sole element lacking to a very pretty
-domestic picture. The tea is now
-poured out; you are expected to
-drink several cups, else the shopping
-that is to follow would not be a
-success. The host says many pretty
-things, rejoices at the fact that you
-are an American, and thinks your
-country the crowning triumph of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>
-modern civilization. He trusts that
-your health is as good as your rosy
-cheeks and sparkling eyes would lead
-one to believe, and that nothing will
-happen to make your journey in
-Japan anything but one of the delightful
-memories of your after-life.
-Meanwhile you sip the pale drink,
-nibble at the cakes and candies, think
-your charming new friend not the
-crafty schemer you know him to be,
-and are almost led to believe that you
-have come not so much on business
-as for the sake of making a morning
-call.</p>
-
-<p>But now the host claps his hands,
-and an attendant appears from a rear
-room, bearing several neat-appearing
-boxes in his arms. The goods that
-you have come to buy are in these
-little square affairs, but you are almost
-as much interested in the boxes
-themselves as in what they contain.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>
-They are daintily made of light
-wood, and are not disfigured by the
-clumsy nails or cracks that do not
-annoy our less æsthetic merchant
-of the West. When the attendant
-begins to remove the wares your
-appreciation of the artistic shopkeeper
-increases, for everything is
-daintily wrapped up in cloth of alternate
-red and yellow sides. Japanese
-paper is of a much choicer kind than
-ours, but no self-respecting merchant
-would ever think of using it to cover
-his wares. You become very familiar
-with this yellow cloth before you
-leave the country, for it is as generally
-used as our less artistic substitute at
-home.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps you know what you want
-and perhaps you don’t, but it will
-make no difference to the proprietor,
-who prefers that you take plenty of
-time. He says very little in praise<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>
-of what he puts before you, though
-occasionally he will unaggressively
-remark on the particular qualities of
-an unusually charming article of bric-à-brac
-or roll of silk, or drop a word
-on the depth of colour and finish of a
-piece of gold lacquer; nor is he willing
-to let an occasional piece of Satsuma
-pass by without calling your
-attention to its delicate shade and
-crackle.</p>
-
-<p>This goes on for some time, until
-your eye alights on something that you
-must have, and then the most interesting
-feature of the performance begins;
-for a Japanese merchant is entirely
-out of harmony with the one-price
-system of the West, and would never
-think of asking the actual amount
-for which he will really sell his wares.
-He has his price, it is true, but this
-is only for those of small experience,
-and from others he seldom hopes to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span>
-get more than one-third to one-half
-of what he asks. Never think, however,
-that you get the best of him,
-for there is always a limit below
-which he will never go. Friends of
-mine have reached this limit, and
-their most persistent efforts have
-never succeeded in making the shopkeeper
-less firm. They would drop
-into the shop morning after morning
-and renew their offer; the merchant
-would smile, but remain unshaken.
-If you stay very long in Japan you
-will become so accustomed to this
-haggling practice, that you will acquire
-a habit you will have difficulty
-in shaking off. When, after I returned
-home, a dry-goods-store clerk
-told me that the price of a certain article
-was fifteen dollars, I could hardly
-keep from replying, “I’ll give you ten.”</p>
-
-<p>“How much will you sell me this
-for?” you inquire at last, perhaps<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span>
-picking up a piece of delicate bric-à-brac,
-which in your fond imagination
-you already see gracefully reposing
-on your library table at home.</p>
-
-<p>The shopkeeper looks at it sharply
-with his little eyes for some time,
-then answers with a <span class="locked">smile,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Sixty <i class="translit">yen</i>.”</p>
-
-<p>Your hands go up in horror.
-“What?” you frantically exclaim;
-but the merchant answers you with
-another smile. Your emotion, however,
-is as feigned as the shopkeeper’s
-apparent firmness, for you know that
-it will be an easy matter to make him
-reduce the price,—the main question
-being whether your limit will be the
-same as his. The chances are that he
-will take just about one-third what
-he asks, and make a handsome profit
-then. So, you with the proper spirit
-decide to take him at an even lower
-figure and <span class="locked">reply,—</span></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p>
-
-<p>“I will give you fifteen.”</p>
-
-<p>The dejected air that suddenly
-spreads over his face is the kind of
-which a Japanese merchant is alone
-capable. He gives a great sigh and
-gazes at you with a look that seems
-to ask if you were born without a
-heart. His emotion is so great that
-he may even rise, walk around the
-shop, and examine several of his dearly
-beloved curios that have not been
-subjected to such outrageous treatment.
-He will soon return, however,
-and, with the humblest voice in the
-world and a sadly withered smile,
-announce his <span class="locked">ultimatum,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Will give for thirty <i class="translit">yen</i>.”</p>
-
-<p>You shake your head, push the rare
-object aside, and rise. You do not
-intend to go, but you begin to look
-at a different line of goods. The
-shopkeeper has not lost his politeness,
-and he takes the utmost pains<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>
-in showing a large number of things
-that he knows you never intend to
-buy. During all this you and he
-occasionally cast furtive glances at
-the object of your disagreement, but
-neither one for a long time makes
-any allusion to it. Finally, the moment
-comes for you to go, but you
-decide to make one more attempt,
-which you know will be effectual.
-Picking up the dainty bronze, you say
-in an off-hand manner that you will
-give him twenty <i class="translit">yen</i>.</p>
-
-<p>He looks at you sadly, and then
-again at the object in your hands.
-He casts his eyes at the ceiling, bestows
-a glance upon his innocent
-children playing with grasshoppers
-and crickets, all unaware that they
-are being defrauded of an inheritance,
-makes the bow of humiliation, and
-says with a short <span class="locked">gasp,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“I am resigned.”</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p>
-
-<p>After he has expressed his emotions
-in this unvarying phrase, his spirits
-seem once more to return. He smiles
-again in his old way, and his bows
-have the old obsequiousness. He
-even gives you another cup of tea,
-and in other ways betrays the secret
-satisfaction that he feels on having
-made a very good bargain. He follows
-you down the stairs to the
-awaiting <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> and bids you farewell
-with the most touching “<i class="translit">Sayonara</i>”
-that you have yet heard. As
-you slowly ride away, the last thing
-you see is his bowing form in the
-door, and you give a sigh at the
-thought that all this display of friendship
-is but owing to the fact that
-you have probably paid twice what
-you should for the dainty bronze
-statue that is to adorn your library at
-home.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_77" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_077.jpg" width="1622" height="957" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_81" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p>
-<div id="ip_81" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_081.jpg" width="1663" height="704" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="OUR_DINNER_AT_KIOTO">OUR DINNER AT KIOTO.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Of</span> course, it could hardly be expected
-that our dinner would
-be Japanese in all its features, but
-it was not only our embarrassment
-at our surroundings that prevented it
-from being so. The appearance of
-our host himself in side-whiskers was
-enough to give an un-oriental air to
-the ceremony, and clearly indicated
-the peculiar mixture of the East and
-West of which his character presents<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>
-a striking example. For he had
-visited extensively in America, where
-he had performed high diplomatic
-functions and carried back many of
-our traits, not the least evident of
-which were the whiskers above referred
-to. It was also unnecessary
-to use an interpreter when talking
-with him, as he spoke our language
-easily and well. As far as politeness
-went, however, he was entirely
-Japanese. I have an indefinite recollection
-of him as an embodiment
-of smiles and bows; his manners
-were perfect, his voice was of unusual
-sweetness. He had a keen
-mind and kept a watchful eye on us
-during the evening, in order that the
-strangeness of our situation should
-add rather a feeling of pleasantness
-than of discomfort.</p>
-
-<p>He was a man far advanced in the
-ideas of new Japan, and he had gone<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>
-so far as to adopt the European costume.
-But this evening he had cast
-it aside and appeared in all the splendor
-of a Japanese host. After we
-had travelled under the direction of
-a little <i class="translit">musmee</i> with a lighted candle,
-through a long, arched lane, we suddenly
-found ourselves before a small
-house and heard the most un-oriental
-of all words: “Good evening.” We
-looked up, and there stood our host
-between two wicker panels which he
-had thrust aside, with his handsome
-face smiling the most cordial of welcomes.
-He wore the conventional
-divided skirt, and over this a <i class="translit">kimono</i>
-of dark grey, caught together in front
-with a cord. His foot-gear was the
-customary sandals, which, however,
-he did not wear during the evening.
-Of course he did not have his wife
-with him, for even his progressive
-spirit had not reached the point where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>
-he could allow any feminine supervision
-of his feast. The hostess is
-unknown in Japan, where domesticity
-does not play the part it should.
-We had another proof of this in the
-invitations we received, which did
-not invite us to our host’s house, but
-to one of the swell restaurants of
-Kioto. For a Japanese to entertain
-at his own house would be a social
-barbarism.</p>
-
-<p>The length of the Major—one of
-our party—was often inconvenient
-in Japan, and I saw him casting
-troubled glances at the house before
-which we found ourselves. It was
-very small, and when we finally entered
-he found it necessary to stoop
-in order to get in at all. We did not
-gain an entrance immediately, for we
-found an obstacle in our way in the
-form of the little <i class="translit">musmee</i> who had
-conducted us thither. Before starting,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span>
-the two ladies of the party had
-debated for a long time what foot-gear
-they should wear, being faced
-by the American extreme of shoes
-and the Japanese extreme of stocking
-feet. They congratulated themselves
-that they had hit upon a happy solution,
-by wearing their party slippers;
-but when they arrived they found
-that they had miscalculated.
-As they
-stepped upon
-the platform
-and were
-about to enter
-the room,
-the little <i class="translit">musmee’s</i>
-hands went up in horror.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_85" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width:16em;">
-    <img src="images/i_085.jpg" width="994" height="979" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop" style="max-width: 16em;">
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 67%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085a.jpg" width="649" height="174" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 91%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085b.jpg" width="882" height="156" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085c.jpg" width="968" height="132" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 74.5%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085d.jpg" width="721" height="132" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 58%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085e.jpg" width="562" height="183" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 47.5%;">
-    <img src="images/i_085f.jpg" width="460" height="174" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_085.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>We can only appreciate her
-feelings by imagining our
-own, should one of our callers
-elevate his feet upon the parlor
-furniture. Should they desecrate her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>
-spotless white mats with their barbarous
-American slippers? Our poor host
-had his hands full, trying to pacify the
-little enraged body, and at the same
-time to act towards us as though this
-outburst was one of the regularly-planned
-features of the dinner. His
-ever present smiles were still more in
-requisition, and he could not bow
-enough in his endeavour to make us
-feel at ease. Suddenly, there came a
-calm; the little maid withdrew, and
-we were bidden in a most polite way
-to enter. The offended girl, however,
-sulked away like an angry child, and
-I am convinced that if we made any
-enemies in our trips in Japan, the
-little <i class="translit">musmee</i> at this restaurant was
-one of them.</p>
-
-<p>This was the first Japanese house
-I had ever been in, and naturally I
-was interested to see what it was
-like. It was oriental in every way,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span>
-though by no means an example of
-oriental splendor. At one end there
-was a platform on which incense was
-burning, and the walls were entirely
-bare but for two paper <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>.
-The floor was covered with white
-matting, on which were placed black
-velvet cushions. These were our
-seats for the dinner, and each of us
-was supplied, in addition, with a black
-lacquered candlestick. For some time
-we stood there waiting for the host to
-begin, but as we afterwards learned,
-it is customary at Japanese social
-functions for that dignitary to follow.
-He smilingly requested us to be seated
-as quietly as though he was bidding
-us to four hours in Paradise, and not
-to the physical discomfort—almost
-torture—that it proved to be. The
-ladies seated themselves with little
-trouble, but things did not go so
-well with the poor Major. His legs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>
-formed a large part of a body that
-measured considerably over six feet,
-and as those six feet had to be disposed
-of picturesquely in a sitting
-posture, you will see that we had
-almost a tragedy on hand. The Major
-made several spasmodic attempts, and
-finally threw himself down in a lifeless
-heap in a way that furnished our
-host new cause for smiles and bows.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_89" class="p1">
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-    </div>
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-</div>
-
-<p>For all this the scene in which we
-found ourselves had its romantic
-side. It was early in the evening of
-a beautiful night in April, the Japanese
-June. The wicker panels of the
-house were thrown open, and the
-warm air came through, scented with
-the perfume of the cherry-blossoms
-and bearing delicate sounds from the
-garden without. We could see the
-stars from where we sat, and they
-had that warm, melting lustre that
-one sometimes sees at home, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span>
-which
-is characteristic
-of an
-oriental night. In
-front of the house
-was one of those famous
-miniature gardens that
-embody the dainty Japanese
-taste. A small, sparkling lake was
-bordered by the sacred cherry-trees,
-which were in full bloom; a passing
-breeze had blown many of the blossoms
-upon the surface of the water.
-The shores were covered with dwarf
-trees and a few sprays of pansies. All
-of this we could clearly see, for the
-moon gleamed down upon the scene
-with just enough brightness to render
-all distinct without removing any of
-the enchantment. From the distance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>
-we could hear the faint tinkling of a
-waterfall. Even the Major’s uncomfortable
-state of body could not prevent
-him from catching the poetic
-flavour of all this. But there was
-more romance ahead. We all felt a
-disappointment when our host dropped
-the oriental manner of salutation and
-simply bowed profoundly; but now
-we were soon to have Eastern respect
-at its fullest. Two <i class="translit">musmees</i> entered,
-and, falling on their hands and knees,
-touched their flower-bedecked heads to
-the floor. In this respectful attitude they
-remained before us for some seconds,
-while we wondered whether the occasion
-demanded any action on our part,
-when, suddenly, they rose and presented
-us with handleless cups full of tea—for
-every dinner in Japan begins with
-tea. I looked at the host in despair.
-“Ah! I will explain,” he said, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>
-a laugh, and he did so. This is the
-way you do it: you place the cup in
-the palms of both hands, twist the
-fingers into a supporting position
-(I do not yet fully understand it), and
-drink between the thumbs. If you
-are well-enough bred, you will do
-this with the utmost ease; but if you
-are not, you may land the tea in your
-lap, break the china cup, and be put
-down as an extremely low person.
-Of course, the fact that we were
-foreigners warded off any harsh judgment;
-and besides, I really believe we
-all of us did manage somehow to get
-through the crisis in a way that was
-not entirely disgraceful.</p>
-
-<p>Japanese æstheticism extends to
-their dinners, which are extremely
-graceful affairs. Our host, for example,
-had divided this dinner into
-four parts, each typical of a season
-of the year. In this was a hidden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>
-compliment; he intended thus to express
-his regret that we were unable
-to spend the whole year in Kioto, and
-his hopes that this evening’s pleasure
-would offer as good a substitute as
-possible. And in spite of our uncomfortable
-attitudes and the strangeness
-of many of the dishes placed
-before us, I do not think he was
-entirely unsuccessful. Not the least
-pleasant part of the dinner, for example,
-was that which immediately
-followed the tea drinking. We had
-hardly handed the cups back to the
-<i class="translit">musmees</i>, when they gave to each of
-us a beautiful wicker basket filled
-with flowers,—that, at least, is what
-we thought they were, until we
-discovered that they were without
-smell. In fact, it took us some time
-to find out that they were not flowers
-at all, but most exquisite candy
-imitations. They were more than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span>
-confectionery—they were true works
-of art.</p>
-
-<p>But there were other surprises in
-store for us. As we sat admiring
-these delicate creations, the doors at
-the rear suddenly opened, and a living
-wave of colour came fluttering in.
-At first we could distinguish nothing
-but a flock of miniature bats, storks,
-and other creatures which figure exclusively
-in Japanese natural history,
-disporting themselves among dainty
-representations of purple violets, dandelions,
-and white and pink cherry-blossoms.
-After recovering from our
-first surprise we saw that these were
-small pieces of embroidery on a background
-of pale greys and shaded blues,
-and then we caught sight of waving
-loops of hair in which were intertwined
-sprays of flowers and fancy
-pins. This delicate yet somewhat confused
-mass drew nearer, and we saw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>
-five little faces painted entirely white
-with the exception of clearly-defined
-spots of red under the eyes and lips,
-that were made particularly small by
-a skilful handling of the brush. We
-could but ejaculate one word:
-“<i class="translit">Geisha!</i>” These were the famous
-dancing girls of Japan, who lead, I
-fear, not too happy lives in furnishing
-much of the enjoyment of Japanese
-social life. It is only ordinary
-people who frequent the theatre in
-this country, and it falls upon these
-little creatures to furnish the higher
-classes a large part of their amusement.
-They dance, they sing, they
-joke, act as waiters, and are generally
-expected to supply the element of
-gaiety without which no dinner can
-be thought complete.</p>
-
-<p>The Japanese do not walk, they
-flutter; they do not sit down, they
-sink. Each of these delicate bits of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span>
-humanity bearing a small lacquered
-tray sank down before the guest she
-was to serve. They were continually
-laughing and chattering among themselves,
-making naive criticisms of our
-costumes and of ourselves—for the
-<i class="translit">geishas</i> are given a great deal of
-freedom. They were particularly inquisitive
-about the ladies’ dresses,
-and even went so far as to ask,
-through the interpreter, the cost of
-them. They also were anxious to
-know whether the Americans made
-them themselves, and how long it
-took. These materialistic thoughts
-changed when they caught sight of the
-ladies’ diamonds, which they romantically
-imagined to have grown on trees.
-They made endless remarks about us
-which we did not understand, and
-from the interpreter’s unwillingness to
-translate many of their speeches, I am<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span>
-sure the little fault-finders saw much
-in us to criticise.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_96" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width: 18em;">
-    <img src="images/i_096.jpg" width="1143" height="896" alt="" />
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-    <img src="images/i_096b.jpg" width="545" height="271" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_096.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>And now the dinner began in earnest.
-By our sides we discovered
-mysterious packages done
-up in paper, which we were
-horrified to find contained chop-sticks.
-This was worse than drinking
-tea between your thumbs. It was my
-first experience with these utensils,
-and I hardly thought myself in a well-chosen
-place to learn their mysterious
-qualities. I was greatly surprised,
-however, to find that it was not so
-difficult as it looked, and that chop-sticks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>
-after all, are not the impossible
-things the untutored suppose. We
-had a hard dish to begin on; for after
-we had got our chop-sticks in battle
-array, the <i class="translit">geishas</i> startled us by bringing
-in soup. More smiles from the
-host, and more explanations. All you
-have to do is to eat the solid part with
-the chop-sticks and drink the liquid as
-you drink tea. The soup was politely
-christened “Congratulatory,” and
-was made of green turtle, which is
-popularly supposed to live a thousand
-years—another compliment for us.
-And now that I have begun the
-menu, I may as well say that the
-succeeding dishes included fish and
-eels, and an unprecedented number of
-soups, cooked <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">à la Japonaise</i>, particularly
-one made of seaweeds, in
-which their taste was by no means
-concealed. And there were wines,
-<i class="translit">bomei</i>, which the Japanese regard as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span>
-a kind of medicine to prepare the
-stomach for the food, and <i class="translit">saki</i>, the
-national drink, not dissimilar in appearance
-and taste to a pale, dry
-sherry.</p>
-
-<p>At this point we were surprised by
-the arrival of another guest. He had
-been invited to meet us as a friend
-of our host, but for some reason had
-been detained and had sent his excuses.
-He was clad in the same
-costume as our host and had also
-adopted the occidental whiskers,
-though his were grey. He was not
-sufficiently Europeanised, however, to
-omit the Japanese salutation, and consequently
-prostrated himself “on all
-fours” before us. He further mystified
-our minds by presenting each of
-our party with his card. We looked
-at our host in despair, who explained
-that it was customary on such occasions
-to exchange cards. But we had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span>
-failed to bring any along, and therefore
-had to apologise ourselves out of
-the difficulty as best we could. Of
-course, our excuses met with the customary
-smiles.</p>
-
-<p>“We hope you will be able to visit
-our country sometime,” one of us
-had inspiration enough to say through
-the interpreter the new arrival had
-brought with him.</p>
-
-<p>“I have been there already,” he replied.</p>
-
-<p>“And how did he like it?”</p>
-
-<p>“It is a very beautiful country, and
-I hope to go back again sometime.”</p>
-
-<p>Though the conversation was satisfactory,
-the inconvenience always
-occasioned by the use of an interpreter
-prevented it from being very
-lively. The next remark I remember
-was from the Major, and was not of
-so suave a kind.</p>
-
-<p>“Say, if I have to sit here much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span>
-longer, I shall never be able to use
-my legs again.”</p>
-
-<p>All the evening he had been attempting
-to gain relief by a constant
-change of position, but his efforts did
-not seem to have been successful.
-We all of us were somewhat tired,
-but the Major had a great deal more
-to be tired than we. He had to compose
-himself, however, for one of
-the most distinctive features of the
-dinner.</p>
-
-<p>There was a slight pause after
-his remark, and we began casting
-glances at one another and wondering
-what was to come next. The
-pause at an American dinner we
-should consider an awkward one, but
-our host did not seem to entertain
-any such idea. Suddenly we heard
-two snaps that apparently came from
-stringed instruments, and at the same
-time the panels in a rear room were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span>
-drawn aside. We were taken somewhat
-by surprise, for we were not
-acquainted with the fact that a small
-theatrical performance is one of the
-usual accompaniments of a Japanese
-dinner.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_101" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;">
-  <img src="images/i_101.jpg" width="1901" height="1244" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>Two of the <i class="translit">geishas</i> began to play
-on the <i class="translit">samisen</i>, the Japanese banjo,
-and the <i class="translit">koto</i>, a kind of elongated
-harp, picked with ivory tips. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>
-the same time one of the girls came
-out in the centre of the room, and
-we had our first sight of Japanese
-dancing. While she went through
-the movements of the “Reign of
-Spring,” the two girls with the instruments
-began singing in that falsetto
-key which it takes an educated
-taste to appreciate. They sing so
-shrilly and the notes they strike are
-so unnatural, that it becomes a very
-painful exercise, and will frequently
-bring tears to the performer’s eyes.
-And how about the dancing? One
-who is accustomed to the serpentine
-mazes of our occidental skirt dancers
-and who likes that sort of thing, may
-find it hard to enter into the spirit of
-her Japanese contemporaries; but if
-you delight in gracefulness in any
-form, these little <i class="translit">geishas</i> cannot fail
-to please. Their costume plays an
-important part in the series of posturings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>
-that makes up the dance, and
-no small amount of the success
-achieved depends on the proper manipulation
-of the fan. You can get
-the best idea of what it is like, by
-imagining a succession of dainty
-tableaux in which the changes are
-made before your eyes.</p>
-
-<p>After sitting in a Japanese posture
-on American legs for four hours at a
-stretch, it was with some difficulty
-that we finally arose and prepared to
-leave. As we went out into the
-night we were followed by a veritable
-chorus of “<i class="translit">Sayonara</i>,” which is the
-Japanese word for “good-bye.” We
-were somewhat surprised to be followed
-by the little <i class="translit">musmees</i>, bringing
-as gifts, neatly tied up in boxes, that
-portion of the dinner we had not
-eaten. There is something delightfully
-original in that idea. The smiles
-and bows of our host were succeeded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>
-by those of his friend, whom he had
-sent to escort us safely home. His
-courtesies did not stop here, for he
-called on us the next morning to
-thank us for the honour we had done
-him in accepting his invitation to
-dine,—a notable expression of the
-refinement of Japanese politeness.</p>
-
-<p>The night had grown still more
-beautiful during the four hours we
-had spent within, and we caught
-many interesting glimpses of local
-colour on our way to the hotel. The
-air was warm, the sky clear, and the
-brilliantly-lighted parks were filled by
-proud Japanese fathers and mothers
-with their prattling children. Men
-and women were stopping under the
-cherry-trees that were in full bloom,
-gazing upon the sacred blossoms that
-have been dear to Japanese hearts for
-so many centuries. We went by one
-of the temples, standing on a hill, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>
-approach marked by a succession of
-bright red gateways. Under the light
-of the moon, this ancient structure,
-which for ages has been the heaven
-of aspiration and love for so many
-hopeful spirits of this land, had an
-air of the utmost impressiveness.
-The whole scene made us forget that
-we had been sitting for four hours
-on our heels, and called to our minds
-the fact that we had had one of the
-most enjoyable experiences of our
-lives.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_105" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_105.jpg" width="1628" height="918" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_109" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span></p>
-<div id="ip_109" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_109.jpg" width="1488" height="721" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="MIYAKO_ODORI">MIYAKO ODORI.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">We</span> suddenly found ourselves
-before the entrance to an
-unfamiliar by-street, and turned to
-our guide to inquire the meaning
-of what we saw. The huge red lanterns
-hanging in a perpendicular
-row from two high poles, evidently
-had a significance about which
-we were in the dark, and the exhibition
-of haste, which we observed
-on the part of these leisurely Orientals,
-surely was inspired by no everyday<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>
-event. The girls were looking their
-prettiest with their hair filled with
-flowers and their pale grey <i class="translit">kimonos</i>
-tied with that magical sash-knot,
-which is the despair of their Western
-sisters. Along with them trotted their
-smaller brothers in bright-coloured
-flowing robes, their little heads cropped
-close with the exception of a solitary
-tuft. Fathers and mothers of sedater
-age and deportment displayed an
-eagerness that was equally strong, if
-more quietly marked.</p>
-
-<p>Our attending coolie informed us
-that we had hit upon a festival that
-has particular attractions to the foreign
-eye. You have probably heard of
-those sacred cherry-blossoms that are
-so dear to the hearts of the Japanese,
-and which, with the chrysanthemum,
-are their chief floral pride. It is true
-that meddling foreigners have said
-that they are not cherry-blossoms at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span>
-all; but that does not seem to prevent
-the delicate mingling of pink and
-white from being a very beautiful
-flower. It is in the month of April
-that they are to be seen at their best,
-and it is then that this æsthetic people
-assemble in different ways, and touchingly
-illustrate the part that these
-flowers play in their lives,—for the
-Japanese without their cherry-blossoms
-would not be the Japanese at all.
-When, therefore, the coolie informed
-us that all these people were on their
-way to see the famous cherry-blossom
-dance, we lost no time in mingling
-with the throng and following it down
-the lane-like street.</p>
-
-<p>Everything here was a maze of Japanese
-forms clad in their daintiest
-robes, and Japanese faces flushed with
-eagerness and anticipation. Though
-æsthetic before everything else, the
-people have a keen eye for business,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>
-and the street was lined with booths
-full of knicknacks and toys of every
-kind. And here also were whole families
-picturesquely seated on their heels,
-sipping the everlasting tea. Pushing
-our way through the crowd, we drew
-up before a platform-like entrance, and
-were immediately met by one of the
-attendants, who presented us each
-with a pair of enormous white duck
-shoes. If you travel long in Japan,
-you will become accustomed to this
-sort of thing, and cease from experiencing
-any embarrassment or indignation
-at being requested to remove your
-foot-gear before stepping on a Japanese
-floor. The irreverent foreigner,
-however, unaccustomed to walking
-around in stocking feet, does not
-always see things from the Japanese
-point of view, and it has therefore
-been necessary at the temples and
-places of public amusement to have
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span>a stock of these ungainly foot-coverings
-for his benefit. The measure, of
-course, is a conciliatory one, and is
-intended to smooth the ruffled feelings
-of the Westerner without at the same
-time scandalising the sensibilities of
-the Japanese. We had had many
-similar experiences, and so lost no
-time in incasing our feet in a manner
-that would insure us entrance into the
-theatre, even though it might detract
-a little from our dignity.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_115" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_113.jpg" width="1479" height="2224" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">Japanese Forms clad in their Daintiest Robes.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the small lobby in which we
-found ourselves were a number of
-Japanese enjoying the national attitude
-of repose, and quietly waiting for
-something to turn up. The other
-end of the room was occupied by a
-counter on which was displayed a
-large collection of fans made of artificial
-cherry-blossoms, similar to those
-that were afterwards used in the dance.
-These are exhibited in a large measure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>
-for the benefit of the foreigner, who is
-expected to make generous purchases.
-All the while we could hear notes of
-that unmistakable Japanese music
-coming from beyond a small wooden
-door, mingled with weird voices and
-unclassifiable sounds. We began to
-fear that the dance had begun before
-our arrival, and that we might miss
-the best part of the show. We signified
-our wish to enter by pounding
-on the small door; but it was securely
-locked, and those on the other side
-treated our emphatic demands with
-oriental disdain. As we had paid our
-admission fee, we began to get indignant
-at this kind of treatment; but it
-is better not to get indignant at such
-things in Japan. Besides, the explanation
-was quite satisfactory, as one of
-the attendants told us that it was a
-fixed rule never to interrupt the performance
-by the entrance of new<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span>
-spectators, and, therefore, any one who
-came late must wait until all was
-finished. We were pacified when we
-learned that the dance was now
-nearly over and would shortly be
-repeated, and that we would lose
-nothing by waiting. But we were
-not the only ones who were impatient.
-There was one little Jap accompanied
-by his mother, who, after a careful
-search finally succeeded in discovering
-a small crack near the floor, to which
-he applied his eye in much the same
-fashion that his penniless occidental
-cousin watches the progress of a game
-of baseball; and evidently with the
-same emotions, if the glances of delight
-which he occasionally threw
-towards his mother might serve as
-indications.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly the music ceased, and the
-crowd began to push in. Japanese
-crowds are particularly noted for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span>
-their good nature, and our progress
-into the theatre was the occasion of
-many sprightly jokes from the local
-wits, which were evidently very good,
-for they were received with bursts of
-laughter. We soon found ourselves
-in a front seat of a small gallery, with
-a three-sided stage before us. This
-gallery was reserved for those from
-over the seas and for those of the
-higher classes of Japan. Below in
-the pit sat those of humbler station,
-making themselves as comfortable as
-possible with their cushions spread
-out on the floor. Spectators who had
-already seen the performance were
-leaving the theatre from the two
-entrances under either end of the
-gallery, but the eager crowd from
-without was rapidly filling their
-places. The faces seemed the same
-that we had parted with a few minutes
-before, and they had the same appearance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span>
-of expectant happiness. Here
-and there was a father and mother,
-followed by five or six wee ones,
-hurriedly rushing around to find the
-most convenient place. Apparently
-satisfied, they would finally sit down,
-begin to chatter and laugh, until suddenly
-one would notice what he
-thought a more advantageous place,
-when up they would all scramble
-again and hurry on in fear that some
-one might forestall them. It sometimes
-took more than two trials
-before they were satisfied, and so,
-while we were waiting for the curtain
-to rise, the gay mass below us
-was constantly changing about in the
-eagerness of the spectators to gain as
-comprehensive a view of the stage as
-possible. Each little group was provided
-with that indispensable adjunct
-to happiness,—the tobacco-box. The
-occasion meant far more to them than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>
-what took place on the stage; it was
-a general holiday, and they were there
-to get as much out of it as possible.
-There was a continual buzz as the
-conversation went on, and occasionally
-from some animated group there
-would rise a loud shout of laughter,
-whence we could infer that an oriental
-funny man had made another appreciated
-hit. Indeed, the sight below us
-was so interesting and brought us so
-in touch with the people themselves,
-that we almost forgot that there was a
-more pretentious display to follow, and
-gazed at the curtain before us in total
-disregard of the glories that lay beyond.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly our attention was aroused
-by the loud clapping together of two
-pieces of wood; and as suddenly
-every chattering tongue quietly ceased,
-and every laughing face assumed an
-expression of the utmost interest. It
-was the Japanese substitute for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span>
-prompter’s bell. The curtain obediently
-rose, and we settled ourselves
-for the enjoyment of an oriental performance.
-Even at the beginning we
-could see that the Japanese prefer to
-manage these things in a way of their
-own, for the orchestra with them is
-not a mere incident of the performance
-with which to appease the impatience
-of the audience between the
-acts or to drown the weak portions of
-a faltering tenor’s solo. In Japan the
-orchestra is kept behind the curtain as
-the chief performer, and comes in as
-generously for its share of applause.
-The first thing that caught our gaze,
-therefore, were two rows of <i class="translit">geishas</i>,
-picturesquely ranged on either side of
-the stage, with <i class="translit">koto</i> and drums ready
-for the opening overture. They were
-all painted and plastered after the usual
-<i class="translit">geisha</i> style, their little red and white
-faces surmounted by towering head-dresses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>
-of the ever-present cherry-blossom
-and wistaria. Dainty is a
-word that one constantly finds one’s
-self using while speaking of the
-<i class="translit">geisha</i>, and none other seems to serve
-the purpose so well. Those on the
-left, in their bright <i class="translit">kimonos</i>, with their
-little drums shaped like hour-glasses,
-were in the full daintiness of <i class="translit">geisha</i>
-life, while those picking the <i class="translit">koto</i> opposite,
-though still very young, could
-not but bring the pathetic thought
-that that strange life is a brief one.
-The whole audience observed the
-strictest silence all through the opening
-selection, which was not without
-its charms, even to unaccustomed
-ears. Occasionally a small shrill voice
-would be heard above the steady
-thrumming of the instruments, and
-though this could not perhaps be
-called singing, it had charms for those
-receptive souls in the pit.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_123" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width:23em;">
-    <img src="images/i_123.jpg" width="1448" height="869" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop" style="max-width: 30em;">
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_123a.jpg" width="1421" height="445" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 46.4%;">
-    <img src="images/i_123b.jpg" width="659" height="50" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 34%;">
-    <img src="images/i_123c.jpg" width="483" height="60" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 30%;">
-    <img src="images/i_123d.jpg" width="427" height="110" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 22%;">
-    <img src="images/i_123e.jpg" width="313" height="183" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_123.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But in the mean while
-our attention had been
-attracted to the stage. It
-had been prettily arranged as
-a garden scene, in a way far more realistic
-and beautiful than the painted
-trees and urns which pass for such in
-our own theatres. Here we had a
-profusion of cherry-blossoms to serve
-as a background to the equally pretty
-and delicate girls, who now began to
-enter from the two doors that had been
-previously used by the spectators.
-They were in two files, one in which
-pale blue and pink predominated,
-while the <i class="translit">kimonos</i> of the others were
-of bright red. The faces and headgear<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span>
-had been arranged in the same
-way as those of the musicians, and
-each held in her hand a cherry-blossom
-fan. Their entering motion was
-very slow, consisting of a step forward
-and a step backward, the time of the
-music being scrupulously observed.
-In this way they proceeded up the
-middle of the stage, where they parted
-and formed in line on the sides, meeting
-again in the centre. They were
-now ready for the dance to begin.</p>
-
-<p>The word “dancing,” in its western
-interpretation, can hardly be applied
-to the graceful body-motions which
-satisfy the more subdued taste of the
-Japanese. The nearest thing that our
-stage can offer for comparison is the
-march, more spectacular than artistic,
-in which glistening helmets and emblazoned
-shields and swords play so
-large a part. In place of the knightly
-helmet these Japanese use their cherry-blossom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span>
-head-dresses to good effect,
-while their less aspiring minds are
-satisfied with a fan instead of a sword.
-They have large flowing sleeves which
-they are constantly waving with a
-motion not too slow to be picturesque,
-and they can bend their little bodies
-in a way that their Western rivals have
-yet to learn. They toss their heads
-backwards and forwards in a very
-graceful and captivating way, and
-make any number of gesticulations
-with their sleeves, holding them in all
-conceivable positions in front of the
-face, back of the head, or stretching
-them out at arm’s length as a bat
-does its wings. At times the marching
-and counter-marching becomes
-delightfully confusing, the stage being
-a mass of slowly-waving colour, from
-the midst of which a large number of
-cherry-blossomed crests can be seen
-and an occasional smiling white-plastered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>
-face. The dancers do not show
-the slightest traces of fatigue, and
-when the curtain is rung, or to be
-more precise, clapped down at the
-conclusion of this first act, they seem
-as fresh as when it began, and a little
-disappointed that they are obliged to
-pause for a short time.</p>
-
-<p>Another clap, and up went the
-curtain again. The scene-shifters had
-been working hard during the interval,
-and produced a charming change
-for the second act. We thought at
-first that we were to have an oriental
-version of a well-known scene of
-Italian love-making, for here was a
-Japanese house with bow-windows
-and balconies that would have delighted
-the eye of the most fastidious
-Romeo. But there were only Juliets
-in this play, and they made, after all,
-a satisfactory use of the windows and
-piazza, though they relied simply upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span>
-their own charms for their success.
-Now one tiny form would appear in
-a window, now one would step upon
-a balcony, and another somewhere
-amid the trees would smilingly gaze
-upon her sister above. There were
-no carefully memorised speeches of
-blank verse, but the scene was full of
-that clever <i class="translit">geisha</i> sentiment that can
-be so charming. Each little actor
-became her own poet, yet there was
-no need of words to make us feel the
-happy spirit of romance inspiring her
-unrestrained heart. The atmosphere
-of gayety was not confined to the
-stage but found its way into the delighted
-souls in the pit, and scarcely
-had the curtain descended when they
-seemed to feel it their duty to give a
-performance of their own. The children
-began to run about, pull each
-other by the sleeves, roll around on
-the floor,—all to the accompaniment<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span>
-of ceaseless tittering and all with the
-utmost good nature. A wrestling
-match formed the diversion of one
-group gathered around two diminutive
-athletes of local reputation, who
-were tugging savagely at each other
-with the utmost disregard of usual
-athletic rules. The pit was not without
-gymnasts of its own, who turned
-somersaults and handsprings in a way
-that must have shocked the more
-refined taste of the gliding <i class="translit">geishas</i>.
-While all this was going on, the more
-dignified members of the family were
-sitting on their heels, smoking their
-pipes in a stately manner, and occasionally
-bringing forth materials for a
-light lunch. This would have a greater
-attraction than the trials of athletic
-skill, and even one or two of the most
-successful turners of the somersault
-made a pause in their gyrations to
-watch the progress of the meal.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_129" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 20em;">
-  <img src="images/i_130.jpg" width="1217" height="547" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>My attention was so occupied by
-the busy throng below, that it was
-not until I felt a gentle tug at my
-elbow that I was aware that I had a
-visitor at hand. I turned and saw a
-smiling white-plastered face, surmounted
-by tall sprays of cherry-blossoms,
-gazing up into mine. It
-was one of the <i class="translit">geishas</i>, who had left
-the stage and who had quickly selected
-a foreigner on whom to bestow
-her favours. And yet, I like to think
-her attentions were not merely of a
-perfunctory kind, and that she was
-drawn towards me for other reasons
-than because it was the way in which
-she had been trained. Her actions
-surely had not an artificial air, and the
-continued smiles which she showered
-upon me seemed to be sincere. She
-did not feel the least embarrassment,
-and kept talking on in her sweet
-little voice as though I understood<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span>
-everything that she said. And a great
-deal of it was perfectly plain. When,
-for example, she glanced up into my
-eyes in such a meaning way and let
-drop a few dulcet words, could my
-woman’s nature refuse to understand
-the little flatterer? She was amused
-by the ornaments on my hat, and
-smoothed my hair in a most caressing
-manner. When she tired of this, she
-called my attention to a small tray
-at my side, which I had not noticed
-before. From this she took a cup of
-tea in her delicate little hands and
-offered it to me. I drank it with the
-utmost readiness, and did not stop to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>
-think that it was the bitterest thing
-that had ever passed my lips. This
-was the real object of her visit, and
-with another smile she gathered up
-her tray and passed on. I gave a sigh
-as I saw her go through the same
-thing with another lady not far away,
-and apparently with the same sincerity
-and feeling. With an equal tenderness
-would she clasp her hands, and—crushing
-stroke to feminine vanity—gaze
-into her eyes with the same
-admiration as she had into mine.</p>
-
-<p>And now, for the first time, I noticed
-that there were several <i class="translit">geishas</i> in the
-back part of the gallery engaged in
-making the bitter potion I had tasted
-under such romantic circumstances.
-This is no every-day occurrence, and
-it has a long history that gives it a far
-from vulgar interest. Perhaps you
-think that our “teas” are of native
-origin, and that they are an invention<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span>
-of modern times; but you are mistaken.
-In the sixteenth century there
-lived a mighty man in Japan, named
-Hideyoshi, and he it is who must bear
-the burden of those social functions
-about which the men say so many
-unkind things. For in his effort to
-lighten the cares of state and lessen
-the tedium of his life, Hideyoshi, after
-much careful thought, decided on the
-following plan. He gathered to himself
-several of the choicest spirits of
-the realm, to whom conversation was
-a developed art and wit a perennially
-flowing spring, and said: “I hereby
-establish an entirely new form of social
-diversion to be known as ‘tea.’
-In so doing, I have a careful eye on
-those who shall follow, and particularly
-those of other lands, who shall
-shower their blessings upon me to
-the end of time. So come, my friends,
-gather around, and in the words of an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>
-unborn poet: giggle, gobble, gabble,
-and git.” Probably this last allusion
-was a mere pleasantry on his part, and
-had reference to the degenerate forms
-in which we should receive the ceremony.
-Hideyoshi had no feminine
-hands to assist him,—Japan at that
-period of its history not kindly favouring
-budding <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">débutantes</i>. He went
-about it himself in this way. He took
-a piece of purple silk and carefully
-cleaned each article to be used, folding
-and refolding the fabric in a most deliberate
-manner. He then heated a
-bowl with hot water and placed in it
-a spoonful of the green powder that
-the Japanese call tea. Nothing remained
-but to put in the boiling
-water and to serve the bitter result.
-With a most profound bow he passed
-this around to his guests, giving each
-at the same time a small cake with a
-taste rather suggestive of dry ginger.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span>
-The affair was a great success, and
-was taken up with readily by the
-most exclusive sets of Japan, and
-passed into modern times. It is called
-the “<i class="translit">cha-no-yu</i>,” and the Japanese<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span>
-regard it with a reverence that makes
-it almost sacred.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_135" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 23em;">
-  <img src="images/i_134.jpg" width="1439" height="1758" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>The day was now drawing to a
-close, and the theatre was gradually
-becoming dark. The informality of
-the performance was continued at the
-next rise of the curtain, when the
-scene-shifters came out and prepared
-to arrange things for the last act.
-They were not visible to the spectator,
-however, because they had on
-black gowns and black masks,—and
-because the Japanese have a very
-lively imagination. But to us, not so
-happily endowed, these men’s sombre
-costumes did not prevent them from
-being seen, and we watched them
-with considerable amusement and interest
-as they solemnly went around,
-preparing the stage for the finale.
-Everything was darkened, and when
-the <i class="translit">geishas</i> again appeared, they each
-held a candle in one hand and a spray<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span>
-of cherry-blossoms in the other. Enormous
-clusters of this flower seemed
-to fall from the wings in one mass,
-barely leaving room beneath for the
-little girls to go through the concluding
-steps. The dance that followed
-was even slower than the former, and
-was accompanied by a still weirder
-music, the finest we had yet heard in
-Japan. Everything had an air of
-strangeness and unreality, and we felt
-indeed that we were in a different
-atmosphere than that in which we
-had spent our lives. Slowly the
-brightly-clad <i class="translit">geishas</i> moved around
-the stage, the white blossoms gracefully
-waving in the air, and still more
-weirdly rose the threatening tones of
-the <i class="translit">koto</i>.</p>
-
-<p>We were aroused from our enchantment
-by the gradual descent of the
-curtain. The spectators for the next
-performance were already entering,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span>
-the conversational jabber once more
-began, and to the accompaniment of
-the same laughing voices and probably
-the same jokes, we made our way
-to the street.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_137" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_137.jpg" width="1494" height="884" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_141" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span></p>
-<div id="ip_141" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22em;">
-  <img src="images/i_141.jpg" width="1390" height="731" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_RISE_AND_FALL_OF_THE">THE RISE AND FALL OF THE
-<i class="translit">KAKEMONO</i>.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">It</span> was our last night in Kioto. We
-had spent the day in the temples,
-and though we were somewhat tired,
-we still managed to keep up a desultory
-conversation upon the interesting
-things we had seen. Suddenly we
-were interrupted by a shy knock.
-Before any one had time to prevent it,
-a handsome Japanese face thrust itself
-through the gradually opening door;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>
-it was immediately followed by the
-handsome figure of a young man.
-Perhaps it was because of the good
-looks that the intrusion was not resented.
-The new-comer possessed
-large brown eyes, bushy black hair,
-and beautiful white teeth, and in addition
-to this spoke English.</p>
-
-<p>“Can look see some of goods.
-Have very beautiful things.”</p>
-
-<p>This is the way they teach it—or, at
-least, learn it—at the mission schools.</p>
-
-<p>The speaker continued: Would
-Madame be so kind as to glance at the
-charming wares at present gracefully
-reposing in a pack on his shoulders?
-They were something out of the usual
-run, and he had brought them especially
-for her inspection. To tell the
-truth, Madame was very tired, and
-murmured an objection; but a beautiful
-face has always touched her
-artistic sensibilities, and here was one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span>
-of the finest she had yet seen in Japan.
-The new-comer seemed to notice this,
-for he entered without more ado. He
-immediately dropped to the floor and
-began to unpack his bundles. We
-were all soon interested in other things
-than our visitor’s face, for he had
-hardly begun to display his wares,
-before we saw something novel ahead.
-Japanese peddlers usually have an
-innumerable collection of small boxes,
-but our friend’s were larger and
-heavier and of a much richer kind.
-With the usual number of bows and
-smiles he began to reveal his treasures
-to our gaze, when we were honoured
-by the entrance of a small counterpart
-of himself, who had evidently been
-waiting outside until the coast was
-clear. Apparently they were brothers,
-and together they began to arrange
-their merchandise in a way to catch
-the American eye most temptingly.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span></p>
-
-<p>We had already seen many of those
-hanging pictures which figure so
-prominently in Japanese art, but
-nothing of so delicate a texture as
-those our visitor now laid before us.
-They were for the most part representations
-of religious emblems, but there
-was one of a more secular kind of
-which the young man was particularly
-proud. It was rather large, with a dark
-background on which was exquisitely
-embroidered a tall, white cock with
-head erect, crowing to his heart’s
-content, and strutting about in all the
-majesty of a flaming red comb.</p>
-
-<p>But this was only a beginning.
-Evidently our friend had brought
-these merely to see whether we were
-people of taste and could properly
-appreciate the untold treasures he had
-at his command. In his Mikado’s
-English he informed us that our
-artistic eye had touched him profoundly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>
-and had caused him to call
-to mind a <i class="translit">kakemono</i> of unparalleled
-beauty, that would delight us still
-more. Whereupon, he ruthlessly
-folded up the cock with the flaming
-comb, placed it with the rest on the
-floor, and set the boy down upon the
-pile to guard matters until his return.
-It did not seem to occur to him
-that this latter act was a slur at our
-honesty—things are different in
-Japan, you know.</p>
-
-<p>“Have got house very beautiful
-<i class="translit">kakemono</i>. Priest won’t sell.” So
-he said, and so we understood him;
-giving him credit for grammatical
-correctness, when really he meant
-“want to sell.” Here, we thought, is
-a touching example of Japanese politeness!
-Our visitor is so impressed
-by our appreciation of his embroideries
-that he is about to show us one
-of the treasures of the temple, for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span>
-the sole purpose of gratifying our
-taste for art. Soon this obliging
-Oriental returned, bearing a large
-bundle over his shoulder, which he
-immediately spread before our astonished
-gaze, all the while murmuring,
-as we thought, a repetition of the
-fact that the priest would not sell.
-We were further mystified by an
-occasional reference to a tea-house
-that seemed to disturb the young
-man’s peace of mind.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_147" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width: 24em;">
-    <img src="images/i_147.jpg" width="1483" height="938" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop" style="max-width: 30em;">
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_147a.jpg" width="1467" height="476" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 57.7%;">
-    <img src="images/i_147b.jpg" width="846" height="154" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 54.8%;">
-    <img src="images/i_147c.jpg" width="804" height="209" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 29%;">
-    <img src="images/i_147d.jpg" width="426" height="87" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_147.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>However much we may have been
-puzzled by this, there was no doubt
-that we had before us one of the most
-delicate creations of art. Could it be
-possible that all this was the result of
-man’s labour, using what many of us
-find so clumsy an instrument as a
-needle? I have thought long how
-to give an idea of the skill, the patience,
-the taste displayed in this
-piece of tapestry; but who can tell<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span>
-a blind man
-what a rainbow
-is like?
-Besides, I do not
-yet myself thoroughly
-appreciate what it all means, for,
-though I have owned the tapestry
-for some time, I never look at it
-without finding something I have not
-seen before. It seems such an inadequate
-thing to say, that it was about
-eight feet long and three wide, and
-that the figures were worked upon
-a grey background surrounded by a
-border of black. If you could only
-have seen it as it first flashed upon
-me that evening, a glorious mingling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span>
-of the bright Japanese colours of red,
-black, and white, as yet totally undimmed
-by the nearly two centuries
-that it had lain, a holy thing, in the
-Daitokuji Temple at Kioto! There
-seemed to be some historical scene
-portrayed, evidently a naval battle, for
-there were castles and boats and
-water, and in the distance the sacred
-mountain of Fujiyama, worked in a
-rich gold. Over all, with outspread
-wings, were flying storks, and in the
-sea were strange fish and monsters.
-And there were royal crests, sailors,
-warriors, birds of many kinds, the
-colours as finely blended in this piece
-of needlework as in an artist’s painting.
-Later I have had the opportunity
-to examine it more in detail, and to
-discover that the castles on the shore
-are undergoing a siege, the date of the
-events being that of the ascendency
-of Hideyoshi. We are sure of this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span>
-because Hideyoshi himself is there
-in red armour, and though his face
-is not more than a quarter of an
-inch in diameter, the features are
-easily distinguishable. I have the
-names of the other officers and castles,
-with a full description of the event
-written in choice Japanese by the
-priest of whom the purchase was
-made.</p>
-
-<p>For he would sell, after all. As we
-stood admiring this monument of
-skill and patience, little thinking that
-it might be ours, the young man kept
-up his story about the refusal of the
-priest to sell, and also his pathetic
-allusions to the mysterious tea-house.
-Suddenly, however, he cleared up
-everything by turning to us despairingly
-with the <span class="locked">words,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Please buy!”</p>
-
-<p>Then we at last learned that the
-priest “wanted” to sell, and that he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span>
-was driven to this strait by the necessity
-of raising money for a tea-house
-adjoining the temple. And we
-gladly bought. It was with reluctance
-that the priest gave us this Japanese
-treasure in return for our
-American dollars, for behind the act
-there is a pathetic story that touches
-the very heartstrings of the faithful
-followers of Buddha. It might not
-be inaptly styled “The rise and fall of
-the <i class="translit">Kakemono</i>.”</p>
-
-<div id="ip_150" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21em;">
-  <img src="images/i_150.jpg" width="1321" height="905" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span></p>
-
-<p>In those good old times when the
-Mikado was only a picturesque ornament
-of the community, subject himself
-to the dictates of some powerful
-<i class="translit">shogun</i> or warrior like our friend
-Hideyoshi; before the barbarous West
-with its parliaments and trousers and
-sense of art-perspective had begun to
-intrude, a great being ruled in the
-hearts of the Japanese and filled them
-with longing and hope and love. He
-was not a native, it is true; but the
-fact that he came from India did not
-seem to make him any less national,
-and he was as much at home in this
-sunny island as in his own snowy
-Himalayas. To tell the truth, the poor
-Japanese peasant was not the happiest
-of mortals in those days; for
-we have many stories of the little
-regard in which he was held by those
-above him, and the insignificant part
-he played in the social system. It is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span>
-not altogether strange, therefore, that
-this wanderer from the south should
-have met with a hearty welcome; for
-his lessons were those of kindness
-and hope. More than this, he taught
-the down-trodden serf that life was
-not a mere matter of unrewarded
-toil and undeserved suffering, but that
-it had a gleam of greatness even for
-him, and that besides there was something
-beyond. This bearer of glad
-tidings dwelt in the temples on the
-hills, and his name was Buddha. It
-is true that the ungodly Japanese had
-little stone images of him of which
-they thought a great deal, and so his
-religion was an idolatrous one; but
-for all that they might have done
-a great deal worse.</p>
-
-<p>For many centuries, therefore, they
-loved great Buddha, and loved him
-with all their souls. Every one, from
-the haughty <i class="translit">shogun</i> to the little white-faced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span>
-<i class="translit">geisha</i>, found in his spirit a
-something which he could find nowhere
-else, and which resulted in a
-stronger and purer life. There was
-one, however, who remained proudly
-aloof from all this, and regarded
-Buddha with a somewhat doubting
-eye. This was no less a personage
-than the Mikado himself, who, after
-all, could not be greatly blamed for
-the way he looked upon the new-comer.
-For Buddha was not only a
-foreigner but a revolutionary character,
-and expelled a former visionary
-something very dear to the Mikado’s
-vanity. This was the creed of Shintoism.
-Now I hope you will not
-embarrass me by asking what Shintoism
-is, for I assure you, that though
-I have given the matter some attention
-I have not yet a clearly defined
-idea as to what it all means. It
-does, however, teach us something<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span>
-indefinite about listening to the dictates
-of our hearts, and something
-definite about following the decrees of
-the Mikado. It treats this dignitary
-even more kindly than this, for it goes
-on to say that he is not a man at all,
-but a great god moving here among
-us,—a sacred thing to be worshipped.
-It supports this claim by a very long
-and highly respectable pedigree, proving
-him to be descended in the direct
-line, without twist or turn, from one
-Amaterasu, who was a sun-goddess
-before Buddha came. For Buddha
-did not trouble himself about the
-Mikado’s genealogical tree, and so the
-good man had little use for him. During
-many centuries he treasured up his
-ill-feeling; but things worked slowly
-in Japan in those days, and it was
-a long time before disobliging history
-gave the Mikado a chance to get even
-with this iconoclast of the south.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p>
-
-<p>To tell the truth, through all these
-years the Mikado was not the important
-personage his ancestry would
-lead you to suppose. His main occupation
-was posing gracefully as the
-head of the state, and for ages this
-descendant of the sun-goddess was
-kept in golden chains, a practical prisoner
-in his own castle. But he still
-kept his hold on the people, who,
-by some peculiar inconsistency very
-noticeable in their religious faiths,
-firmly believed that story about Amaterasu.
-This, however, did not in the
-least affect their warm love for Buddha,
-of which they gave evidence in many
-ways. They built many temples,
-which were approached by a series of
-handsome <i class="translit">torii</i>, or stone gateways, and
-which were regularly attended by
-priests. But by far the best thing
-they did was to make these embroidered
-pictures, one of which I have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span>
-described at length. Those were
-emphatically the days of the <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>,
-and they are the most telling
-expressions of the deep-rooted
-affection with which the Japanese
-regarded their divine teacher. The
-works are deeply religious in the most
-profound sense of the word, and fill
-the same place in Japanese art that
-the works of Raphael and Michael
-Angelo do in Christian painting.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_156" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img src="images/i_157.jpg" width="1555" height="2154" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">Handsome <i class="translit">torii</i>, or Stone Gateways.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>And these old masters had their
-counterparts in Japan, though but few
-are known to fame. I fancy, for
-example, that not many have heard of
-a certain genius named Tosa Mytzeoki;
-but he it was who flourished at the
-middle of the last century and spent
-three years of his life in making the
-beautiful tapestry that I now possess.
-The makers of these <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>
-formed a separate class of society, and
-spent their whole lives in the practice
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span>of the delicate art. They had no instrument
-but the needle, and no
-material but Japanese silk with which
-to produce these wonderful results.
-They worked year after year at the
-beck of grosser spirits than themselves,
-and of course were poor and
-unhappy. They did not have the
-hope of fame that inspires so many
-artistic souls; for when a <i class="translit">kakemono</i>
-was completed it was immediately
-laid away in the temple, far from
-vulgar eyes. Poor Tosa Mytzeoki
-never dreamed that the result of his
-delicate toil would some day grace
-an American drawing-room! It is
-true that on days of religious festivals
-the <i class="translit">kakemonos</i> would sometimes
-be brought out and used in decorations
-for the walls, but these occasional
-exhibitions were a sorry
-foundation for future fame.</p>
-
-<p>When some nobleman—for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span>
-higher classes alone could afford such
-a sacrifice—wished to gain the favour
-of Buddha, he would go to one
-of these humble artists and give him
-an order for a <i class="translit">kakemono</i>. There were
-two kinds from which he might select,
-those that were embroidered and
-those made of paper. The latter were
-especially abundant, and of all kinds
-and sizes. Many of them contained
-merely an autograph done with the
-brush,—the national pen; for the
-Japanese have always had a liking for
-fine handwriting, esteeming excellence
-in that line a separate art. The
-figures with which a large number
-of these paper <i class="translit">kakemonos</i> are covered
-are splendid examples of Japanese
-painting, the scenes being mostly of
-a historical and religious kind. Buddha
-and Confucius are the special
-favourites. The backgrounds are
-often filled with a host of figures;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span>
-I remember one at Kioto, that contains
-nearly as many faces as Tintoretto’s
-painting in the Doge’s Palace at
-Venice. This <i class="translit">kakemono</i> is remarkable
-for other reasons than this, for the
-work is lifelike and vigorous, and
-though five hundred years old is well
-preserved. It is called the “Death of
-Buddha,” and represents the expiring
-prophet surrounded by worshippers
-with grief-stricken faces, so vividly
-depicted that the very air seems filled
-with lamentation.</p>
-
-<p>For many centuries these <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>
-were being collected in the
-Buddhist temples all over Japan.
-Then came the memorable year 1868,—a
-year that marked the close of the
-Japanese middle ages. The feudal
-system was abolished, and the whole
-scheme of government renovated.
-Now the Mikado emerged from his
-obscure position as a public official,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span>
-and began to play more than a sentimental
-part in Japanese life. The
-days of the <i class="translit">shoguns</i> were over, and
-the Mikado was the Mikado indeed.
-From this time the misfortunes of the
-<i class="translit">kakemonos</i> began. The long-awaited
-opportunity of the Mikado had arrived.
-He solemnly sent forth an edict that
-Buddha had outlived his usefulness,
-and that the day of his great-great-grandmother,
-the sun-goddess, had
-come; the sole religion of the Japanese
-henceforth was to follow the
-teachings of his heart, but above all
-those of the Mikado. So Buddha’s
-occupation was gone. The Japanese
-were already on that downward path,
-which was to end in their wearing
-European trousers under Japanese
-<i class="translit">kimonos</i>, and they began to find the
-Indian prophet a little out of date.
-And besides, the missionaries had
-impressed upon their minds that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span>
-those little stone images were things
-no self-respecting man would have
-about him. Many, therefore, decided
-to do away with these abominations,
-and follow the teachings of
-their hearts.</p>
-
-<p>But, though the government was
-persistent, Buddha was even more so,
-and was very loath to give up the sway
-he had secured over the affections of
-the Japanese. The humbler classes
-were also blind to the superior virtues
-of the Shinto Temple, and therefore
-an interesting struggle began, to see
-which was the fitter to survive. The
-struggle is not ended yet, nor is there
-any great indication that it soon will
-be. The Mikado himself has confessed
-the weakness of his own cause,
-for he has found that the mere listening
-to the teachings of one’s heart
-and obeying the decrees of the sovereign
-does not constitute a religion.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span>
-He has therefore been obliged to borrow
-a great deal from his antagonist,
-and it so happens that the state religion
-of Japan is a tangled problem.
-But the masses of the people are still
-faithful to Buddha, whose temples
-are increasing every day.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_164" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 35em;">
-  <img src="images/i_165.jpg" width="2193" height="1519" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">The Mendicant Priests.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the midst of all these reforms
-there was one class on whom the burden
-rested with a peculiar weight.
-What was to become of the priests?
-The Mikado cared no more for these
-than he did for Buddha himself, and
-so, while a large part of Japan was
-listening to the teachings of its heart,
-these priests wandered in a melancholy
-way about the temples, at a
-loss as to what it all meant. Not
-only this, but they were hungry men,
-as the governmental supplies had
-suddenly ceased. The temples were
-beginning to show the evils of the
-sentimental tendency of the people,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span>and it was evident that something
-must be done, or Buddha would have
-to limp back to India with a lessened
-appreciation of Japanese hospitality.
-Thus it was that some one more daring
-than the rest bethought him of
-the <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>. Here were treasures
-indeed, and moreover here were
-wealthy foreigners beginning to swarm
-anxiously to lay sacrilegious hands on
-everything. You see it was a simple
-case of sentiment <i xml:lang="la" lang="la">versus</i> necessity, and
-as usual necessity came out on top.
-The priests must be fed, tea-houses
-must be built, the temples preserved;
-the government frowned upon them
-all. Every time, therefore, that the
-needs became too pressing to be resisted,
-a <i class="translit">kakemono</i> was aroused from
-its rest of ages, and converted into
-cash. Buddha was thus given a lease
-of life once more, while his sacred
-<i class="translit">kakemonos</i> were transported to do service<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span>
-in the drawing-rooms of Europe
-and America.</p>
-
-<p>Many of them were bought up by
-the Japanese themselves. They are
-a source of entertainment at dinner
-parties, where they are brought out
-for the inspection of the guests in
-much the same fashion that we display
-our bric-à-brac or collection of
-paintings. A careful history of each
-is kept, which always accompanies
-it. The more <i class="translit">kakemonos</i> the Japanese
-has, and the greater the antiquity of
-them, the prouder man he is. But the
-demand for them has occasioned many
-imitations which are reserved for the
-benefit of the unsuspecting foreigner.
-The connoisseur, however, can detect
-the difference as easily as he can
-distinguish between a copy and an
-original.</p>
-
-<p>But the problem is not solved yet.
-The government has issued another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span>
-decree, obliging the priests to make an
-inventory of the treasures of the temple,
-and to see that no more <i class="translit">kakemonos</i>
-are sold. He that has secured one
-of these works of art, therefore, has
-great cause for congratulation. But
-one still wonders what is to become
-of the hungry priests, and the shamefully-treated
-prophet of India. The
-question is made more interesting
-because Buddha shows about as much
-indication of returning to his native
-land as the priests do to begin listening
-to the teachings of their hearts.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_169" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_169.jpg" width="1618" height="816" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_173" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span></p>
-<div id="ip_173" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_173.jpg" width="1525" height="827" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="A_GLIMPSE_OF_ROYALTY">A GLIMPSE OF ROYALTY.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">“You</span> must go to Nara,” they told
-us, as soon as we had landed
-in Japan. “It is one of the oldest
-and most sacred cities of the Empire.
-Though now politically of little importance,
-there are many interesting
-things to be seen. There are beautiful
-groves of cryptomerias, shadowy
-roads, crumbling stone lanterns, tame
-deer, and many an ancient Shinto<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span>
-temple. If you do not see Nara, you
-do not see Japan.”</p>
-
-<p>And so on a certain April morning
-we found ourselves on our way to
-the southern part of the island.</p>
-
-<p>You have heard much of the sunshine
-and the flowers, the tea-drinking,
-and the various æsthetic touches
-of Japanese life, so it may be somewhat
-disillusioning to learn that there
-are other points of view. This thought
-forces itself upon my mind whenever
-I think of our watery journey to Nara,—for
-it rains in Japan. The days can
-be cold and dark, hotel accommodations
-can be scanty, and foreigners
-can take a long and hungry railroad
-ride, and have impressions that they
-do not care to put down in a book of
-travels. We had heard the praises of
-the journey so rapturously sung, that
-the rainy mountains, the swollen
-streams, the dripping trees, the cold,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span>
-wet, and uncomfortable passengers,
-struck us with a painful sense of the
-reality of things. As yet I had experienced
-only the warm and sunshiny
-side of the climate, and so, as I stepped
-from the train that afternoon, and
-gazed about on the various signs of
-general discomfort, I could but ask
-myself, “Is this Japan?”</p>
-
-<p>Yes, it was Japan, and more than
-that, it was Nara. If I had any reasonable
-doubt, before me stood the everlasting
-symbol of things Japanese,—the
-<i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> man. He had a melancholy
-and rainy-weather look, which
-was increased by the freedom with
-which he had discarded his usual costume
-and appeared wrapped in a
-covering of straw. Such a picturesque
-equipage and ingenuous
-attendant look well in a photograph,
-and can even afford a certain amount
-of pleasure in a busy city with plenty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span>
-of daylight and interesting objects as
-a background; but as I stood there,
-facing the downpour and a two-mile
-ride, I began to wonder whether the
-ancient capital of Japan was such
-a fascinating study as my friends had
-promised.</p>
-
-<p>For all that, I crawled in, and my
-stoical friend began to arrange me
-with a tenderness of which his face
-betrayed no sign. He drew a leather
-robe over my lap, tucked it in to keep
-out the least intruding drop of rain,
-drew the top of the carriage completely
-over and shut me in, much after the
-way in which my grandmother used
-to draw her sunbonnet over her face.
-Everything was dark and mysterious,
-and had I been of a nervous temperament
-there would have been much to
-terrify. I began to wonder how the
-rest of the party was getting on; but
-the blind faith that there was a <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span>
-somewhere back of me could not be
-confirmed until I had reached the end.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_177" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img src="images/i_177.jpg" width="1580" height="1288" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>I could feel small streams of water
-trickling down my neck, and pools
-gathered in the bottom of the carriage.
-It began to splash into my face and
-hands; the wind came pouring in,
-and a blast occasionally unloosened
-my lap robe. I was surrounded by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span>
-impenetrable darkness, with the exception
-of a small aperture below,
-where I caught sight of a pair of uncovered
-legs automatically moving.
-I divined that these were the property
-of the gentleman who had arranged
-me in my present position with such
-extreme solicitude, and whose spirit
-would have been keenly pained had
-he known that so large a portion of
-the storm was finding its way into
-the carriage. His utter disregard of
-himself had a suggestion of the sublime;
-for, though the day was cold,
-he had on hardly more than a covering
-of straw, and his bare feet went
-through the mud and pools with the
-utmost indifference. I learned afterward
-that his limited wardrobe was
-not so real as apparent, and that his
-appearance that afternoon was caused
-not so much by poverty as by pride;
-for this <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> man occupied an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span>
-enviable position among his fellows,
-and had reason to consider himself
-a favourite of fortune. This is all
-explained when I tell you that he was
-the haughty possessor of a pair of
-European trousers. It mattered little
-to him that these might have been
-thrown aside by some more fastidious
-American, or that the style might
-have been a little behind the time.
-They were the chief glory of his life,—and
-the chief torment too. No
-one can say how much his melancholy
-aspect was caused by the fact
-that fate had heaped such bountiful
-favours and grave responsibilities on
-his head,—for he lived under the
-constant fear that some day he might
-wear these trousers out. And so,
-with the true Japanese spirit of economy,
-he had hit upon an excellent plan
-against such a contingency,—he resolved
-not to wear them at all.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_180" class="figright" style="max-width: 16em;">
-  <img src="images/i_180.jpg" width="978" height="1174" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>This unconscious humourist furnished
-the only diversion of the ride.
-Doubtless I passed through many
-delightful scenes, and might have
-caught many charming bits of Japanese
-rural life. I shall never know
-how those tea-fields looked in that
-pouring rain, and the plodding Orientals
-that must have
-passed are a sealed
-picture. I could
-occasionally hear
-the tall trees swaying
-and scraping
-together in the
-cold breeze, but
-they were not for
-the eye. All that
-I could see was a
-small square of
-mud and water, and the mournful
-movement of the untrousered legs
-below. These were very instructive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span>
-as object-lessons in domestic economy,
-but I would have preferred to
-have enough landscape to set them
-off to better advantage. Such an interesting
-thing, however, was enough
-in itself to keep my spirit up, and I
-thoroughly enjoyed the ride, in spite
-of the many things I could not see.
-My faithful friend unconsciously kept
-up a stock of that good humour
-which was soon to be called into
-play; for when we had reached the
-hotel where we were to spend the
-night, the guide came gloomily towards
-us and made the announcement
-that the house was full, and that we
-would be obliged to find some other
-place. He said that he had succeeded
-in finding a small Japanese house near
-by, and that this was the best that
-could be done.</p>
-
-<p>It was still raining hard, the night
-was getting dark, and there was nothing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span>
-for us to do but to take what we
-could get; and I do not know that
-we regretted it after all. The approach
-to the house was not convenient,
-but the place itself was of
-the true Japanese daintiness: a tiny
-affair, with but one story, the earthquakes
-having been duly considered
-in its erection. It contained but two
-rooms, and resembled more a child’s
-play-house than a dwelling. It was
-furnished with the ever-present white
-mats that are so prominent a feature
-of Japanese domestic life. We decided
-to conform ourselves to our
-surroundings, and be distinctively
-Japanese. So, carefully removing our
-shoes, we sat down on our heels,
-while the guide departed to see what
-could be found to eat. This oriental
-posture is very interesting as an experiment,
-but I would not advise you to
-let your enthusiasm carry you too far.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span>
-If you have spent hours on the floor
-with a child playing with paper dolls,
-you can get a good idea of what it
-is like. Our first intention was to
-spend the whole evening in this way,
-and in other respects to do as the
-Japanese did, but we soon found that
-the effect was mainly valuable as furnishing
-a few jokes to enliven the
-conversation. And when we thought
-of eating our dinner after the fashion
-of the best Japanese society, we
-again became irresolute, and were
-greatly relieved when one of the little
-<i class="translit">musmees</i> returned with American
-dishes and American chairs. Thereafter
-we let our attendants look after
-the honour of Japan. They amused
-us during the progress of the meal by
-tying and untying their sashes,—their
-chief feminine vanity,—and by indulging
-in the endless capers and
-familiarities permitted to the <i class="translit">musmee</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span>
-alone. The evening passed rapidly
-and gaily, and the wind and rain were
-forgotten in the Japanese dreams that
-followed the artless speeches and
-childish pranks of our little entertainers.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_184" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_185.jpg" width="1497" height="1971" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">Tying and untying their Sashes.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>A soft, grey light came streaming
-through the paper panes, and in my
-drowsy ears I heard the chatter of
-the <i class="translit">musmees</i>, telling us that it was
-morning, and time to be on our way.
-The storm was not entirely over,
-though it was indulging in a momentary
-pause. The water was dripping
-from the trees, only waiting for the
-sunlight to pierce through the heavy
-clouds to clothe every leaf with sparkling
-gems. The sky had an air of
-indefiniteness and unconcern, in doubt
-whether to repeat its performance of
-the day before, or to burst forth into
-that splendour with which we were
-more familiar. There was nothing
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span>lacking but this for a perfect day; the
-wind had worn itself out during the
-night, the atmosphere was assuming
-a more oriental gentleness, the flowers
-were fresh and bright, and our hearts
-were full of gay anticipation. We
-had little time during the day and
-evening previous to think of one great
-predominant fact: that we were at
-the far-famed city of Southern Japan,
-warm with tradition and beauty, its
-history alive with the early tales of a
-struggling people, its temples and
-shrines aglow with much that is
-finest in human sentiment.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_187" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22em;">
-  <img src="images/i_189.jpg" width="1347" height="787" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>We were surprised at our breakfast
-by the hurried entrance of our
-guide. He was a man of considerable
-refinement and composure, and we
-were therefore taken aback at the
-excitement that he now displayed.
-With bated breath he explained to us
-that the unforeseen had happened,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span>
-though whether this was a matter of
-congratulation his demeanour did not
-make clear. If you are familiar enough
-with the mixture of reverence and
-love with which the Japanese regard
-their dowager Empress, you will
-readily understand the agitation of
-our guide. She is an exalted being,
-the wife of one Mikado and the
-mother of another, and is besides a
-most estimable woman with lovable
-qualities of her own. So when the
-guide learned that she was at the
-present time at Nara and would be
-there for the rest of the day, his emotions
-of loyalty and awe had a sudden
-inspiration, and there was nothing
-for him to do but to try to communicate
-them to us. After we had
-satisfied him that we were duly
-impressed by the situation, he consented
-to descend to particulars. One
-of the most ancient ceremonies at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span>
-Nara is the sacred dance which is
-yearly given in the adjoining grounds
-of one of the temples, and at which
-some member of the royal family is
-expected to be present. That her
-Majesty should select the very day
-that we had appointed to visit the
-place can only be considered as a
-happy coincidence of fate. Preparations
-had been going on for many
-days, and everything was ready for a
-most elaborate performance. At this
-point the guide became somewhat
-mysterious, and began to hint that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span>
-possibly after the royal party had
-finished we might persuade the priests
-to repeat the dance for our benefit.
-Of course we were duly shocked that
-any such thing should be done, but
-we smothered our reverential emotions,
-and decided to make the attempt.
-I all along suspected that our
-friend had completed arrangements
-before he had spoken to us, but he
-betrayed no evidence of this in his
-anxiety lest his plan should fail. To
-confess the truth, I did not feel quite
-at ease over the matter, for the
-Empress had been painted to me in
-a rather unpleasant light, and I was
-very much afraid of offending her
-royal pride. I had been told that she
-regarded foreigners with an unfriendly
-eye, and was jealous of the innovations
-that were creeping in from the
-West, and gradually making the real
-Japan a thing of the past. It was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span>
-said that she looked upon the European
-costume as a thing to be
-abhorred, and the silk hat as a sign
-of barbarism. Particularly, my friends
-had been kind enough to inform me
-that she regarded the American race
-as a peculiarly unpleasant growth,
-and one to be tolerated by no respectable
-Japanese. Though I discovered
-later that my information was wrong,
-the thought sufficed to make me
-uncomfortable, and I felt that to intrude
-upon a ceremony intended only
-for the royal eye, was audacious and
-indelicate. The assurance of the
-guide that this had been done before
-did not mend the matter, and I had
-some twinges of conscience as I
-stepped into the <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> awaiting to
-conduct me to the temple grounds.</p>
-
-<p>As we rode out of the court-yard,
-we observed an interested throng
-gathered around an equipage of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span>
-kind somewhat difficult to classify.
-Had we seen it in an American city
-we should have taken it for a dilapidated
-victoria; but it was hard to
-determine what connection such a
-disreputable affair could have with
-the mother of the Mikado. The
-whole thing, from the ragged upholstering
-to the rickety wheels, had
-a most unroyal appearance. The
-small, shaggy horse may have been
-having a good time, but he failed to
-reveal it by any expression of contentment.
-The coachman, however,
-managed to extract much satisfaction
-from the situation. He had the
-bristling, black hair so characteristic of
-the people, and on the back of this
-he wore a small, low-crowned derby
-hat, gracefully cocked on one side,
-with an air of great self-satisfaction.
-His dress was the not uncommon
-combination of Japanese <i class="translit">kimono</i> and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span>
-European trousers, the latter being
-carefully creased, and turned up to
-display his American shoes. His
-studied attempt to appear dignified was
-made the more amusing by the shortness
-of his stature; but the crowd
-was not amused. The Japanese take
-this sort of thing seriously, and the
-only emotions their faces displayed
-before this cosmopolitan outburst were
-those of envy and admiration. When
-my attendant informed me that this
-was the equipage provided for the first
-lady of Japan, I began to suspect that
-her reported dislike of western civilisation
-was unreal. I told the <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>
-man to hurry on before she
-came out, as I was anxious to escape
-her observation.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_193" class="figright" style="max-width: 14em;">
-  <img src="images/i_195.jpg" width="842" height="1167" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>We entered the temple-grounds by
-a long avenue arched over by tall
-cryptomerias, which extended in a
-tangled forest on either side. Through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span>
-the wistaria vines, almost as dense as
-a jungle, occasional glimpses of the
-sky could be seen. There was little
-sunshine, and the morning had the
-air of twilight. The avenue extended
-in a long and regular line ahead, and
-seemed a fitting entrance to the most
-sacred shrine of Japan. A gentle
-touch was given the whole scene by
-a number of tame deer that find safe
-abode in these forests, where the
-hunter is unknown. As they came
-up to us and looked into our faces
-with their large, confiding eyes, they
-were followed by a troop of little
-girls who had cakes to sell, of which
-the animals were very fond. Little
-was said, for we all felt that we were
-in a sacred atmosphere, and the quieting
-influence of the past was beginning
-to steal over us. The endless
-array of those famous stone lanterns,
-ranged on both sides of the avenue,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span>
-was a fitting suggestion of former
-glory; the days of many of these had
-long gone by, and they were slowly
-crumbling in ruins. We were told
-by our guide that occasionally
-one was
-lighted, but most of
-them had been extinct
-for years. Before
-us we could see
-the pavilion where the
-dance was to take
-place. It was a simple
-roof supported by
-columns, its floor the
-mat-covered earth.
-The priests were walking
-around in their
-stately white robes and fly-screen
-shaped hats, with little priestesses by
-their side. We had abandoned our
-<i class="translit">jinrikishas</i> on entering the grove, and
-now walked slowly along, thinking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span>
-of nothing but the trees, the stone
-lanterns, the deer, and the general
-beauty of the scene. Even the Empress
-had been forgotten, until, happening
-to glance back, I was startled
-to see the royal carriage with the
-sedate coachman on the seat, ambling
-along at a leisurely Japanese gait.
-A few seconds later it stopped, and
-the Empress and her retinue alighted,
-with the apparent intention of doing
-the rest of the journey on foot.
-Wishing to avoid observation, we
-quickly stepped behind one of the
-stone lanterns at a turn of the road.
-Unfortunately we were not quick
-enough, or the glance of her Majesty
-was too keen, for our presence and
-hurried movement did not escape her.
-As she slowly passed we had a good
-opportunity to observe her closely,
-and in spite of the disagreeable stories
-we had heard, the impression was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span>
-not an unfavourable one. She was
-apparently seventy years of age, with
-an intelligent and kindly face, having
-by no means the severe demeanour
-we had been led to expect. She
-was dressed in the old-time Japanese
-style, with bright red skirt and white
-satin <i class="translit">kimono</i>. Her hair was arranged
-in a kind of a halo, falling down her
-shoulders in the back. All the ladies
-in her train were dressed in a similar
-style, but the men were attired after
-the European fashion,—in the prevailing
-court costume. The chamberlain
-of the household department, an
-elderly man, was in charge of affairs.
-As the procession neared our place
-of vantage, it turned to the right in
-the direction of the Temple-grounds.
-We were about to congratulate ourselves
-that we were to escape unseen,
-when her Majesty turned completely
-around and subjected us to a scrutiny<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span>
-that was embarrassing, however
-kindly meant. I bowed with a reverence
-that would have done credit to
-the most obsequious Oriental, and at
-the same time the men of the party
-lifted their hats in approved occidental
-style. The ladies and gentlemen
-of the royal retinue returned our
-greetings with a politeness that rivalled
-our own, but the Empress did
-not incline her body in the least. She
-continued gazing at us with the same
-puzzled expression, yet with no indication
-of displeasure. Apparently
-satisfied with what she had seen, she
-presently passed on. The few moments
-had been embarrassing for us,
-for we did not know of how many
-breaches of propriety we might have
-been guilty; and our salutations had
-not been without a touch of penitence
-as well as respect.</p>
-
-<p>The Empress had hardly disappeared<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span>
-when one of the priests,
-with long robes waving in the wind,
-came running towards us. We were
-now confident that he had some message
-from the Empress, and were fearful
-that the long-expected dislike of
-foreigners was to be shown. This
-idea could hardly have been gained
-from the priest’s face, however, as it
-betrayed no evidence of offended
-dignity, though there were signs of
-anxiety and surprise. He paid no
-attention to us, but immediately engaged
-our guide in an earnest conversation,
-the conclusion of which
-we waited with some apprehension.
-Finally our attendant turned and
-spoke to us in the following surprising
-<span class="locked">terms,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Her Majesty has learned with
-pleasure that you have come so far
-to see the sacred dance, and is very
-glad that you have happened here the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span>
-same day as herself. She is very
-unwilling, however, that you should
-be kept standing while she witnesses
-the performance, but thinks that you
-should be treated with all the kindness
-and hospitality of Japan. She has
-therefore sent one of the priests to bid
-you greeting, and offers you the seats
-that have been prepared for herself
-and party; and she will feel very
-much offended if you do not
-accept.”</p>
-
-<p>These words affected us with
-mingled feelings of astonishment,
-flattery, and embarrassment. We had
-heard much of the politeness of the
-Japanese, but here was a unique
-expression of it; one could hardly
-receive more. And what had become
-of the dislike for foreigners which I
-had been told was so prominent a
-trait in her character? We were
-somewhat in doubt as to what was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span>
-the right thing to do, and stood there
-gazing at each other for a few
-moments, waiting for some one to
-take the initiative.</p>
-
-<p>“I hope you will thank her Majesty
-for us,” I finally answered, “but we
-could not think of taking her place at
-the dance. We can just as conveniently
-wait until she has finished.
-We all, however, very deeply feel her
-kindness.”</p>
-
-<p>“Oh, but you must come—you
-must come,” hurriedly returned the
-guide, dropping a little of his formality
-in his fear that we would not
-accept. “The Empress would not like
-it at all if you refused her invitation.
-She says that she can see it at any
-time, but you have come from far
-over the seas, and must see it to-day
-or never. You cannot decline,—it
-would never do.”</p>
-
-<p>Without considering the possibility<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span>
-of our refusal any further, he and the
-priest immediately led the way. There
-was nothing for us to do but to follow;
-and the faces of our Japanese
-friends were wreathed in smiles as
-they saw that we had overcome our
-scruples. We were much relieved on
-our arrival to find that the Empress
-and her train had gone to the northern
-part of the temple to perform their
-devotions. However much we would
-have liked to thank her in person, our
-acquaintance with Japanese court etiquette
-was not such that we could
-know just how it should be done.
-With a genuine oriental awe we seated
-ourselves in the chairs that had been
-destined for the venerable Empress,
-and from the cups made for nobler
-hands drank the tea that was meant
-for royal lips. We soon found ourselves
-in a more comfortable frame of
-mind, and by the time the dance had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span>
-begun, we were in a condition to
-enjoy it.</p>
-
-<p>There is not much variety in Japanese
-dancing, and that which we
-saw on this occasion differed little
-from many similar performances we
-had attended. There were five little
-girls, ranging from nine to twelve
-years of age, dressed in the old imperial
-costume of red silk, with divided
-skirts, the white <i class="translit">kimono</i> being covered
-by another of gauze, painted with
-purple wistaria. As usual, their faces
-were covered with white plaster, their
-lips were of a bright carmine, and
-their eyebrows shaved. Their hair,
-tied in gold paper, hung down their
-backs, and on their foreheads were
-clusters of wistaria and white camellias.
-The accompaniment was furnished
-by two priests, one performing on a
-kind of fife, the other provided with
-two small sticks of wood, which he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span>
-struck together, at the same time that
-the chief priest delivered, in a high-pitched
-voice, notes very suggestive
-of the Midway Plaisance. The dancing
-consisted of the slow posturing
-that the Orientals so much prefer to
-the agile movements of the West, and
-we had begun to catch the spirit of it,
-and were able to enjoy it after the
-true Japanese style.</p>
-
-<p>We saw no more of the Empress
-who so disliked foreigners, but who
-could treat them with such delicacy.
-We had another indication of her
-kindly disposition, however, after we
-had left the pavilion at the conclusion
-of the dance. Outside stood the sacred
-white horse always to be found
-near these ancient temples, and one of
-the little girl attendants stood by,
-selling the peculiar mixture which
-forms his only food. After I had
-done my duty by the divine animal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span>
-I took the hand of the little girl, who
-looked up into my eyes and <span class="locked">said,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Her Majesty has just gone by.
-She was very gentle to me, and gave
-the sacred horse many measures of
-grain.”</p>
-
-<div id="ip_205" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22em;">
-  <img src="images/i_205.jpg" width="1406" height="674" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_209" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span></p>
-<div id="ip_209" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26em;">
-  <img src="images/i_209.jpg" width="1658" height="436" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="FIN_DE_SIECLE_JAPAN">FIN DE SIÈCLE JAPAN.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">You</span> must not think that you are
-a person of no consequence if
-you do not receive an invitation to
-the Mikado’s garden-party, for there
-are a great many important people
-not always on his Majesty’s list. I
-cannot tell you just what are the
-necessary qualifications to the royal
-favour, for the presence of the entire
-diplomatic corps is not always requested,
-the pride of many a native
-noble receives a fall, and no one
-knows what anguish of mind the
-majority of the democratic Americans<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span>
-in Yokohama experience at not receiving
-a card. Perhaps the most
-fortunate thing connected with the
-party is the delicate flower that is its
-most prominent feature; everything
-in Japan connected with the cherry-blossom
-is sacred, and this probably
-accounts, to some extent, for the
-chariness with which the Mikado distributes
-his favours. In October the
-advent of the chrysanthemum is similarly
-observed, but this function is
-not as important as that held in April.
-Everything depends on the capriciousness
-of the cherry-blossom, and the
-party is given early or late as the pink
-and white deign to display themselves
-to the worshipping Japanese. Invitations,
-therefore, are issued only a few
-days in advance, and are then subject
-to recall should circumstances happen
-to prevent the spring-time flower
-from looking its daintiest.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span></p>
-
-<div id="ip_211" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21em;">
-  <img src="images/i_212.jpg" width="1344" height="863" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>The invitation is written in highly-refined
-Japanese with a sixteen-petaled
-chrysanthemum crest in gold. The
-party is held in the royal Asakusa
-garden, and the Mikado is always
-present with his slim, pretty little
-wife at his side. The guests are
-usually very punctual in assembling;
-the national anthem is played with
-a royal sonorousness; the Emperor
-and Empress, with a dignified suite,
-pass through the garden with the
-genuine stolidity of ceremonial Japan.
-Presentations are seldom made, and
-when there is a person of sufficient
-dignity and importance for this honour,
-the ceremony is more stately than
-cordial. The larger part of the time
-is spent in admiring the cherry-blossoms,
-which are everywhere, and
-which in their early glow are of singular
-beauty. All this is very well;
-yet it is not the Mikado or the flowers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span>
-that are likely to attract the greater
-part of your attention. There is a
-feature of the party of more surpassing
-interest than these: this is the
-high hat. It is this picturesque head-piece
-which redeems the sombreness of
-the gathering, and makes it an event
-unique in social life. You are probably
-somewhat surprised that our occidental
-high hat and the delicate white
-and pink cherry-blossom of Japan
-should have anything in common, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span>
-they do have a great deal. Several
-years ago the Japanese saw that this
-article of dress was the very thing
-needed to crown gracefully their
-<i class="translit">kimono</i>-clad forms, and they eagerly
-took it. They borrowed it of course
-from western foreigners, for the Japanese
-imagination is not capable of
-such wild flights as this. It has so
-become the fashion that they now
-regard it with a kind of reverence,
-and require its appearance on the
-most sacred occasions. It is therefore
-specially stipulated in the Mikado’s
-invitations to his parties that
-the gentlemen shall wear frock coats
-and high hats. The ladies are left to
-their own judgment, and generally
-appear in light calling dresses.</p>
-
-<p>But this stipulation has been the
-cause of no end of dismay to those
-foreigners so ambitious of social advancement
-in Japan. The American<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span>
-is more likely to suffer in this
-respect than his European cousins.
-At any rate it not unfrequently happens
-that when sailing for the land
-of the <i class="translit">kimono</i> you leave your high
-hat on western shores. And so an
-invitation to the Mikado’s party affects
-you with mingled feelings of apprehension
-and tickled vanity. It is a
-case where a beaver hat can be quite
-a serious affair. At first you give
-up in despair, and decide that the
-invitation must be declined, but
-on second thought you think it
-might be well to consult your confidential
-Japanese friend. You are
-somewhat relieved when this gentleman
-assures you that everything can
-be arranged, and that there is nothing
-to prevent your attending the party,—and
-in a high hat too. The Japanese
-friend now murmurs something
-about “The Beaver Pound,” and you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span>
-immediately recall certain institutions
-at home where stray animals are
-gathered from their wanderings, and
-protectingly held until the requirements
-of the law are fulfilled. You
-are a much puzzled man; but after
-you have been conducted to the place
-mentioned, this state of mind is likely
-to give place to another. With the
-utmost gravity your friend discloses
-to you the treasures of the place, and
-politely invites you to help yourself.
-For here are high hats, both silk and
-beaver, of all sizes, ages, and countries,
-and you must be a very fastidious
-person indeed if you find nothing to
-your taste. Every time a westerner<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span>
-leaves a high hat behind him it is
-immediately spirited away by mysterious
-hands, and it is seen no more
-until it graces the head of a careless
-foreigner at some social occasion of
-more than common import. By this
-time there is quite a collection, ragged
-and marred as the coins and stamps
-that are a frequent hobby with us.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_216" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 23em;">
-  <img src="images/i_215.jpg" width="1437" height="326" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>You had better visit the Pound
-early, as the hats are in great demand,
-and you may have difficulty in fitting
-your head. You finally make a choice;
-the likelihood being at best that you
-will have a size too large or small, but
-this is only the simplest of the complications.
-You are by no means the
-first man that has worn this hat, and
-it shows the effects of many cherry-blossom
-parties. Occasionally a new
-sleek hat finds its way into the Pound,
-and there is considerable competition
-as to who shall secure the prize. You<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span>
-had better in some way exhaust all
-the humour that the idea gives you
-before you attend the party, else you
-will not have sufficient command over
-yourself to view the occasion with
-the stoical eye of the Japanese; for
-the hats show off to a better advantage
-from a comparative point of
-view. You must place a neat, decorous,
-low crown of the latest style
-beside the parabolic curve of several
-years ago to see really how funny it
-all is. There is the white and drab
-head-piece, suggestive of the gentleman
-of sporting tastes, and an occasional
-shaggy something that we now
-see only in pictorial representations of
-Uncle Sam. All this is very amusing;
-but it is a graver matter when
-a young man of eighteen has to parade
-around in a widower’s weed, or a staid
-clergyman or pompous Member of
-Congress is obliged to hide behind the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span>
-trees in order to conceal the fact that
-his head is adorned by one of the
-little peaked affairs in vogue a long
-time ago. Nor are these the only
-things in the same line. The ladies
-of the court have caught that disease
-which is spreading so rapidly in
-Japan, — Europamania, — and have cast
-aside their beautiful native costumes
-for a western dress. Their success at
-best is doubtful, but there is one who
-seems to have managed things with
-a greater skill. You will likely wonder
-how the Mikado’s wife can look
-so well when you have heard of the
-difficulties she has to undergo in her
-desire to dress like a European lady.
-Her person is too sacred to be touched
-by vulgar hands, and this unfortunate
-fact interfered with her progressive
-plans for some time, until the
-problem was solved by fitting her
-dresses upon one of her attendants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span>
-of similar height and figure. In spite
-of this inconvenience, the Empress
-appears very well, and is one of the
-few Japanese ladies who wears the
-European costume with dignity and
-grace.</p>
-
-<p>Yet all this is only a fair example
-of what you may see in any part
-of Japan. The changes that have
-been sweeping over the country have
-not been confined to political institutions,
-but have affected the most
-trifling details of Japanese life. It
-makes no matter where you go, or
-the people you meet, everything bears
-the traces of the new lands and peoples
-that have found such favour in
-their eyes. To any one who has a
-taste for the picturesque, the attempts
-of the Japanese at cosmopolitanism
-are an interesting field of study. The
-background of their life is, of course,
-the Japan of ages gone by, with its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span>
-Mikado, its flowers, its sunshine, and
-its tea; but upon this are sprinkled
-the innumerable foreign traits that
-make everything grotesquely amusing.
-With their Mikado they have parliamentary
-government, and though
-they are perhaps as
-fond of their tea as
-ever, they can occasionally
-lay it aside
-for the champagne of
-the West, and beer
-flows almost as freely
-as in Germany itself.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_220" class="figleft" style="max-width: 11em;">
-  <img src="images/i_220.jpg" width="688" height="1042" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>We Americans may
-take a pride in all this,
-and may feel delighted
-that the Japanese will
-christen themselves with
-such names as George Washington
-and Abraham Lincoln; yet I have
-my doubts whether it is not a mistaken
-idea of development that persuades<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span>
-us to dignify it by the name
-of progress. The Japanese are extremely
-quick and imitative, but like
-most imitative people, they are likely
-to perceive only what is most obvious,
-and so become grotesque. They can
-see that there are many attractive
-things about the feminine attire of the
-West; they fail to see that it is not
-suitable to themselves. It is a question,
-after all, whether it is the preferable
-qualities of the new things
-which they meet that leads them to
-adopt them, or whether it is a mania
-simply for what is new. At the best
-they are in a stage of transition. The
-East is constantly touching the West,
-and the average Japanese to-day is an
-interesting combination of the inherited
-traits and emotions of a remote
-civilisation, and an environment too
-powerful to be resisted.</p>
-
-<p>You will understand all this immediately,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span>
-should you take a short walk
-in one of the streets of a representative
-Japanese city. The appearance
-of the people will strike you as un-Japanese.
-The women, as a rule, do
-not now blacken their teeth, or shave
-their eyebrows, as you have been
-brought up to suppose. There are
-still, it is true, many who do not like
-to see these usages die out; but most
-of them live in the country districts,
-which have naturally not been affected
-by the changes in the same way that
-the cities have. The old women still
-go around with blackened teeth, but
-it is because they were disfigured this
-way before the innovation was introduced.
-The Empress adopted the
-new idea a few years ago, and the
-people have rapidly followed. Most
-of the women still wear the dress of
-their ancestors, yet it is doubtful
-whether this is by inclination or necessity;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span>
-anything in a foreign line is
-a luxury, and only the higher classes
-can afford to follow the style. They
-still retain their peculiar ambling walk,
-which is like a slow run, but there
-are many little indications that this
-will be abandoned soon.</p>
-
-<p>It is in the dress of the men, however,
-that the greatest changes are to
-be seen. The number of combinations
-that the average Japanese can
-ring upon <i class="translit">kimono</i> and coat and trousers,
-I have never yet tried to count,
-but you cannot go into a city street
-without seeing a new one. It is
-sometimes the <i class="translit">kimono</i> and trousers,
-sometimes the trousers without the
-<i class="translit">kimono</i>, or the <i class="translit">kimono</i> without the
-trousers. They view the derby hat
-with great favour, and some wear their
-hair long, like an American football
-player. They have caught the infection
-of creased trousers, and take satisfaction<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span>
-in rolling up the ends of
-them in the clearest weather. I once
-saw an enthusiastic and progressive
-Jap walking stolidly through the
-streets with a small stiff hat perched
-on the back of his head, with his
-<i class="translit">kimono</i> turned up in the back, disclosing
-a pair of flannel underdrawers,
-white stockings, and laced American
-shoes, the whole gracefully consummated
-by a cane, which he swung
-jauntily as he marched along. The
-conscious pride that he took in this
-outfit was something delightful to
-see, and the serious and possibly
-envious glances showered upon him
-by his friends showed that he was
-a centre of admiration.</p>
-
-<p>I was surprised one day by a vehicle
-that I saw slowly creeping up one
-of the streets of Tokio. It was a
-small affair, with a single horse in
-front, the approach of which was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span>
-announced by the mournful jingle
-of a bell. At a distance the equipage
-looked like a little yellow box, and it
-was some time before I could convince
-myself that it was a sorry
-specimen of that most American of
-institutions,—a horse-car. I learned
-later that it was only Tokio that could
-boast of such an incongruity, and the
-contented and proud air of the driver
-was in itself an indication that his position
-was an unusual one. It was
-rather the idea of the thing that was so
-delightful, for so far as convenience
-was concerned, the slow motion of
-the car could not be thought much of
-an improvement over the <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>.</p>
-
-<p>I have a Japanese friend who had
-been educated in America and had
-adopted our ways, who relates an
-amusing experience he had in connection
-with this strange innovation.
-The cars have bells and conductors<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span>
-after the American plan; but, unlike
-our custom, they are used for the purpose
-for which they are designed.
-My friend did not know this, and so
-when he wished to alight he walked
-out to the platform and jumped off
-while the car was in motion. He
-had not gone far, however, when he
-saw the conductor running frantically
-after him, with an air of the utmost
-consternation. The car was stopped,
-and quite a crowd collected to watch
-the outcome of the dispute. My friend
-was astonished, and completely in
-the dark as to what it all meant, when
-the conductor in angry tones asked
-him how he dared to disregard the
-law by alighting from a horse-car
-while it was going at full speed?
-The accused man protested his ignorance
-of such a statute; but the conductor
-was unpacified, and threatened
-to call a policeman. It was only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span>
-when he learned that his unruly passenger
-had lately returned from
-America, where they do all kinds
-of barbarous things, and where he
-had learned to disregard the conductor,
-that he consented to let him
-go. My friend received a solemn
-warning never to repeat the act, and
-on so promising was reluctantly released.</p>
-
-<p>Many other things in the streets
-will remind you of home. It is
-nothing strange to see a bicycle
-come leisurely down the street,
-perched upon by a Jap clad in the
-combination of trousers and <i class="translit">kimono</i>
-that most strikes his fancy. The
-electric light is rapidly being introduced.
-The Japanese have their
-policeman, and they dress him after
-the European style. He has a blue
-uniform, a small peaked hat, and a
-club,—but here the comparison must<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span>
-cease. He does not exactly know
-what to do with all the power bestowed
-upon him, and he will never
-arrest a man except on extreme provocation.
-When he does decide to
-enforce the dignity of the law, he
-calmly goes up to his prisoner, ties
-his hands together with a hempen
-rope, and leads him off with the
-utmost gentleness.</p>
-
-<p>The English language suffers at
-the hands of our commercial friends,
-and their attempts to catch the American
-trade in this way reveal many
-startling things. One shop informs
-us that “cakes and infections” are
-found within; but the best thing in
-this line I have seen, is the following
-business card of a Yokohama
-firm: “Jewelry maker, a finest in
-town, Whiskey Boy. Our shop is
-best and obliging worker that have
-everybody known, and having articles<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span>
-genuine Japanese crystal and all kinds
-of Curious Stones, Shells, Ivory Cats-eyes—work
-own name on monograms
-or any design according to
-orders. We can works how much
-difficult Job with lowest price insure,
-please try, once try. Don’t forget
-name Whisky.”</p>
-
-<div id="ip_229" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 28em;">
-  <img src="images/i_230.jpg" width="1739" height="1066" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>English, however, is spoken fairly
-well, and with what Japanese he will
-pick up, the average foreigner gets
-along without much trouble. There
-has been lately introduced that ever-present
-travelling companion, the
-phrase-book, in which we are told
-how to ask the time of day, what we
-want for dinner, and other needful
-questions; but the language is so
-strange in its construction, that few
-have courage to try anything very
-elaborate, and for more intricate matters
-must rely upon the guide, who
-usually speaks our language with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span>
-fluency. One of the men of our
-party tried on a certain occasion to
-show a little gallantry to his attending
-<i class="translit">geisha</i>, and began to tell her, by
-the aid of a phrase-book, that she had
-very beautiful eyes. He thought that
-he had succeeded so well in this that
-he would go one step further, and presumed
-to inform her that they shone
-like the stars. You will see that this
-latter is not only a more delicate compliment,
-but that it is a more involved<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span>
-sentence, and requires knowledge of
-grammatical construction not essential
-to the more simple statement.
-The little <i class="translit">geisha</i> did not understand
-him at all, but he kept at it persistingly
-almost the entire evening.
-Finally the interpreter was called in,
-and the puzzling speech was rendered
-into Japanese. The girl glanced coyly
-up and replied: “Oh, but there are
-a great many favoured in the same
-way.” After that our friend gave
-up the phrase-book, and conducted his
-future gallantries by means of an
-interpreter.</p>
-
-<p>The Japanese have learned more
-things from the visits of foreigners
-than a change of costume and the art of
-war. Perhaps the spirit of trickery is
-inborn, but the numerous signs we
-saw of this were of an order that
-would do credit to the shrewdest
-Yankee. One of our party was always<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span>
-a little sensitive to any reference to
-ducks, and I myself had an experience
-with certain artistic representations of
-dragons of which I was frequently
-reminded by my friends. Our companion,
-while taking an evening walk
-in Kioto, had been attracted by a certain
-individual carrying, by means of
-shoulder straps, a miniature pond, in
-which there were very dainty images
-of ducks swimming around as naturally
-as you could wish. He paused
-to watch the proceeding, and became
-deeply interested. His enthusiasm
-reached its height when he saw the
-fowls occasionally dive under the
-water and reappear, apparently greatly
-refreshed by the plunge. My friend
-excitedly asked the price of these
-phenomenal birds, paid down a large
-sum with great willingness, received
-a paper with instructions as to the
-way to produce the desired effect, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span>
-started for the hotel. Arriving there,
-he began to read the paper in order to
-prepare for the first exhibition. He
-was somewhat chagrined by being
-advised therein to buy a few sprightly
-gold fish, attach them to the ducks,
-place both on the water, and await
-developments.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_234" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width: 16em;">
-    <img src="images/i_234.jpg" width="980" height="1180" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop sliceright" style="max-width: 20em;">
-    <div class="slice figright" style="max-width: 61.6%;">
-    <img src="images/i_234a.jpg" width="574" height="152" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figright" style="max-width: 76.7%;">
-    <img src="images/i_234b.jpg" width="714" height="446" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figright" style="max-width: 82.7%;">
-    <img src="images/i_234c.jpg" width="770" height="201" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figright" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_234d.jpg" width="931" height="364" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_234.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>And now, I suppose, it would be
-only fair to tell you how I was victimised
-by a similar piece of roguery. I
-had not been in Japan long enough
-to distinguish the good shops from
-the bad, nor to know the proper
-methods of collecting curios. I was
-attracted one morning by a graphic
-representation of a woman sitting on
-a dragon, the whole evidently the
-work of a Japanese sculptor. The
-colour of the image, a rich dark brown,
-was what particularly struck my
-fancy. The keeper of the shop informed
-me that it was a rare piece of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span>
-art, that it was made of a certain
-sacred wood, and that the price was
-thirty dollars. I did not buy that
-morning. In the evening we took a
-walk through one of the busy streets,
-and lo! here was an itinerant merchant
-with my dragon at his side,
-anxiously looking for a customer. I
-quickly stepped up to
-him, and listened to
-the same tale I had
-heard in the morning,
-with one important
-exception,—the price
-was now eighty-five
-cents. Perhaps because
-I thought
-I was getting a
-bargain, perhaps
-out of curiosity,
-I purchased the
-statue, had it done up in paper, and
-departed with my treasure. Before I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span>
-showed it to my friends I thought I
-would wash it a little, as it had a very
-dusty look, and would be improved by
-a bath. I was somewhat startled to see
-the rich dark brown colour fade away
-and leave me a pure white dragon of
-a cheap Japanese material resembling
-plaster-of-paris. I called in the guide,
-who gave a broad grin as he surveyed
-the melancholy object before me. He
-kindly told me that it had been
-“dipped in medicine,” and I made
-him a present of the curiosity for his
-information. He bore it away with a
-satisfied air, and that was the last I
-saw of my dark brown dragon,—though
-by no means the last I heard
-of it.</p>
-
-<p>These are only a few of the ways in
-which the influence of the West can
-be traced in Japan. It will be interesting
-to watch what the next few
-years will bring about; whether the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span>
-<i class="translit">kimono</i> will triumph over the trousers,
-the tea over the beer, or whether there
-will be a gradual mingling into a new
-type. The whole thing may be but a
-temporary mania, a passing aberration
-of a quickly assimilative people; and
-perhaps in a few years the progressive
-Japanese will see the folly of his ways,
-and learn that he can best advance
-after a manner of his own.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_236" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22em;">
-  <img src="images/i_236.jpg" width="1373" height="710" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div id="toclink_239" class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span></p>
-<div id="ip_239" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;">
-  <img src="images/i_239.jpg" width="1518" height="715" alt="" /></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHO_AND_EBA">CHO AND EBA.</h2>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">They</span> were surely not the most distinguished
-friends we made while
-we were in Japan. As far as worldly
-considerations went, they were very
-humble indeed; but they possessed
-other qualifications which entitled
-them to our favour, and the youthful
-Eba particularly has left a lasting impression
-on our minds. Throughout
-our stay they were our companions;
-we could never visit a temple without
-their aid, nor climb a mountain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span>
-without their words of advice and encouragement.
-On many a shopping
-expedition did they faithfully act as
-our guides, and many a quiet hint
-would they give us as to the commercial
-wiles of their countrymen.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_240">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width: 31em;">
-    <img src="images/i_240.jpg" width="1947" height="1102" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop" style="max-width: 30em;">
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_240a.jpg" width="1909" height="354" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 17.6%;">
-    <img src="images/i_240b.jpg" width="336" height="692" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_240.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Cho and Eba belonged to the most
-insignificant class of oriental society.
-In a land where caste is of such importance,
-I know that any of our aristocratic
-Japanese friends would be
-horrified to learn that we entertain so
-kindly a remembrance of these paltry
-creatures, to whom the haughty noblemen
-of the East would hardly deign to
-give a passing glance. Perhaps it was
-because we treated them differently
-that they repaid us with such tender
-regard and would apparently sacrifice<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span>
-any happiness of their own to give us
-a momentary satisfaction. For our
-humble friends were <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> men,
-and, more than that, they belonged to
-the despised class of the coolies. Before
-you have travelled long in Japan
-you will become very familiar with the
-two-wheeled conveyance which has
-become an institution of the country,
-and will take a patriotic interest in
-it, for it is reported to be the invention
-of an American. It is a low carriage
-with shafts, in which a toiling
-coolie acceptably fills the place of a
-horse, and it is preferred by the Japanese
-to the most elaborate coach-and-four
-of the West. It was for this
-position in the world that Cho and
-Eba were born, and in this capacity
-they proved indispensable to us.</p>
-
-<p>It was at our landing that we met
-them for the first time, and had our
-first <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> ride. As you step<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span>
-upon the soil of Japan, you will see
-a long row of these carriages with
-shafts resting on the ground, and at
-the same time a corresponding row of
-unobtrusive natives who accost you
-with a most respectful air. They
-have been sitting between the shafts,
-with their hands around their knees,
-patiently awaiting the landing of the
-boat, when they know their services
-will be required to conduct the passengers
-to the Grand Hotel. They
-have spent the time in laughing at
-each other and cracking Japanese
-jokes, for the amount of merriment
-they can get out of life seems without
-end. If the air is cold, they will
-be wrapped up in blankets, and will
-remind you of our western Indians;
-but oftener their covering consists of
-the simple blue tights which will
-become so familiar to you in the days
-to come. If you are so unfortunate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span>
-as to land on a rainy day, they will
-throw this aside for a covering of
-straw with bare feet and legs; but
-the weather will not affect their spirits
-at all, and they will sit with the water
-pouring down upon them, and crack
-the same old jokes, and laugh with an
-appreciation to which the sunshine
-can add nothing. They wear the
-regulation mushroom hat, with their
-name and number inscribed across
-the front.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_244" class="p1">
-  <div class="noslice figcenter x-ebookmaker" style="max-width: 17em;">
-    <img src="images/i_244.jpg" width="1081" height="1131" alt="" />
-  </div>
-  <div class="x-ebookmaker-drop" style="max-width: 20em;">
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 100%;">
-    <img src="images/i_244a.jpg" width="1058" height="787" style="max-width: 103%;" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 44.6%;">
-    <img src="images/i_244b.jpg" width="472" height="123" alt="" />
-    </div>
-    <div class="slice figleft" style="max-width: 26.7%;">
-    <img src="images/i_244c.jpg" width="283" height="193" alt="" />
-    <p class="p0 center smaller x-ebookmaker-drop"><i>(<a href="images/i_244.jpg">Larger</a>)</i></p>
-    </div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>You will, of course, immediately
-call to mind the hackmen of the West,
-but more by way of contrast than
-comparison. The duties of each are
-in a large measure the same, but here
-they are exercised in a way that is
-entirely different. The Japs have
-none of the disagreeable aggressiveness
-of their western contemporaries;
-they are quiet and polite, preferring,
-indeed, that you should take the initiative<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span>
-in the transaction. It is very
-interesting to watch the outcome of a
-rivalry that sometimes occurs when
-two of the coolies hit upon the same
-patron. The angry dispute to which
-many of us are accustomed
-never takes place;
-they treat each other to
-smiles instead of scowls, and the unsuccessful
-aspirant leaves with a laugh
-to find a more appreciative customer.
-During my stay in Japan I hardly ever
-saw a discontented or angry <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span>
-man, and if a genial smile and gentle
-manners are an indication of inward
-happiness, they are the happiest mortals
-it has been my lot to meet.</p>
-
-<p>All this is very well, and yet it is
-with some hesitation that you decide
-to surrender yourself into the care of
-one of those unpromising equipages,
-and it was my first impulse to look
-around and see if something less oriental
-could not be had; but I quickly
-reproved myself, and remembered
-that I was in Japan. Meanwhile, my
-companion had arranged the matter,
-and I saw a little old man smilingly
-approaching, dragging the dreaded
-<i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> behind him. His face was
-sadly wrinkled, his moustache was
-small and grizzled, and when he lifted
-his hat I saw that his hair was white.
-His spirit, however, seemed very buoyant,
-and not to have suffered from
-the many years of toil that would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span>
-occasionally make his step a little unsteady.
-I felt a natural hesitation about
-permitting this little old man to drag
-me about the city; but the almost paternal
-air with which he assisted me
-into the carriage made me feel more at
-ease. Glancing at his cap, I saw that
-my new acquaintance bore the name
-of “Cho.”</p>
-
-<p>I had hardly been comfortably seated
-when I saw my companion ride past,
-borne by much nimbler and more
-youthful legs than those of my poor
-old Cho. Riding in Japan is the most
-unsocial thing in the world. Each
-traveller has a <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> to himself,
-and the carriages are compelled by
-law to move in single file, so that the
-streets may not be blockaded. It is
-true that they will sometimes hold
-more than one person; but these conveyances
-are meant for the Japanese
-alone, who are so light that two can<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span>
-be carried by one man. The constant
-parade of the <i class="translit">jinrikishas</i>, therefore,
-through a large thoroughfare, is very
-interesting. It makes no difference
-how many people there may be in
-your party; one must follow another
-in regular order, or your offending
-coolie may find himself in the lock-up
-before the day is over. You can
-easily see the disadvantages of this
-state of affairs; it makes conversation
-almost impossible,—and who can
-travel with pleasure if he cannot
-talk?</p>
-
-<p>Both for this reason and for another,
-which I afterwards learned, I
-soon lost sight of my companion,
-whose more sprightly attendant
-speedily left my veteran in the background.
-Cho made little effort to
-gain a position ahead of his fellows,
-but leisurely fell into line, and trotted
-along with the contentment of old age.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span>
-As I knew that my forerunner was
-looking for rooms, I was not greatly
-annoyed.</p>
-
-<p>I arrived at last, bringing up the
-rear; and as we stood there congratulating
-ourselves, the younger man
-slowly approached us. Eba had a face
-of unusual intelligence, and his eyes
-sparkled in a way that contrasted
-forcibly with the dreamy blinking of
-Cho. His whole appearance was less
-conservative. Under his <i class="translit">kimono</i> he
-wore something that had a resemblance
-to western trousers, and he
-had discarded the mushroom-hat for
-a peaked cap like that of a college student.
-His every feature bore evidence
-of a keen though kindly disposition;
-his hair was thick and wiry, his eyebrows
-heavy, his mouth large and
-firm. He had a way of darting sharp
-glances at you that immediately let
-you know that here was a man who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span>
-was not likely to bring up last in a
-<i class="translit">’rikisha</i> or any other race.</p>
-
-<p>He bowed profoundly, with a smile,
-and <span class="locked">said,—</span></p>
-
-<p>“Please you have me to-morrow.”</p>
-
-<p>My companion murmured that he
-might if he was a good man.</p>
-
-<p>“Oh, yes; me very good man.
-Can run fast.”</p>
-
-<p>“What is your name?”</p>
-
-<p>“My name Eba; can run very
-fast.”</p>
-
-<p>He had already given evidence of
-this, and he was told to be on hand
-the next morning. He bowed again,
-and moved on. But he had an unsatisfied
-air, and in a hesitating way
-he turned around and approached us
-once more.</p>
-
-<p>“Cho, you know,” he said, with
-an anxious though somewhat downcast
-face, “Cho very good man
-too.”</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span></p>
-
-<p>And he looked at me appealingly.</p>
-
-<p>“Yes,” I returned, “Cho is a very
-good man.”</p>
-
-<p>“Cho not quick like me,” he returned,
-somewhat reassured; “but a
-very good man. Cho old.”</p>
-
-<p>After he had given us this information
-he waited for a few moments,
-meditatively digging his bare toes
-into the sand. Finally he came to the
-point.</p>
-
-<p>“Me bring Cho to-morrow? Very
-good man. My friend.”</p>
-
-<p>We told him that we would be
-very glad to see Cho also; and with
-a face beaming with smiles, and the
-most exaggerated of bows, Eba took
-his leave.</p>
-
-<p>This was the beginning of our acquaintance
-with these two friends,
-and we grew to be very fond of them
-during the weeks that followed. They
-were most assiduous in their attentions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span>
-devoting to us all their time.
-The first thing we saw every morning
-as we glanced out of the window,
-were the forms of our coolies gracefully
-reposing in their shafts, waiting
-until it was our pleasure to take a
-ride. Eba was of a light-hearted temperament,
-and was always laughing
-and joking with Cho, who received
-his advances with a sedate air more
-suited to his greater age. We had
-already had a touching example of
-the filial care with which the younger
-looked after the older man, and this
-was only one of many. I tried several
-times to learn whether there was any
-particular relationship which necessitated
-this attention, but never discovered
-that there was anything beyond
-a congenial sense of comradeship.
-We may be sure that Cho was not
-the only one who profited by this,
-for Eba was of a more impulsive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span>
-nature, which might have done many
-foolish things had it not been for the
-sage advice of his senior. He always
-treated him with the utmost respect,
-and his attentions were those of an
-affectionate son.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_252" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;">
-  <img src="images/i_252.jpg" width="1555" height="568" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>I had been frequently told that the
-Japanese were a people of little natural
-emotion, and that their extreme
-expression of respect and affection
-was merely the national idea of politeness.
-When I think of this I always
-call to mind our two humble friends,
-and the genuine attachment I am
-confident they still have for us. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span>
-two men’s natures were as widely
-different as their ages; Cho was the
-practical man, and thought that the
-best way he could manifest his affection
-was by polishing up the <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>
-wheels to a dazzling brightness,
-or by running up a difficult hill with
-unusual rapidity; but Eba more romantically
-permitted himself little
-attentions in the way of Japanese
-nosegays, and in pointing out unusual
-and attractive features of the scene.
-Cho kept a careful eye on our business
-affairs, would drop many a quiet
-hint on the practices of the shopmen,
-and thought that the greatest kindness
-he could do us was to prevent
-the impositions of his crafty countrymen.
-It was evident that he despised
-the more artistic nature of his
-companion, and at one time I feared
-that their friendship might suffer from
-the little rivalry that was going on.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span>
-As Eba’s nosegays increased in size,
-our carriage wheels grew brighter and
-brighter, and when Eba was spending
-a large part of his time pointing out
-new and interesting scenes, Cho
-seemed to be seeking unknown curio
-shops from which to warn us to keep
-away.</p>
-
-<p>Eba was more intelligent than Cho,
-and was always ready to talk. He
-told me that he could read and write
-Japanese, having attended school between
-the ages of eight and twelve.
-He was twenty-two years old, and
-had dragged <i class="translit">’rikishas</i> for about six
-years. He now worked for a company
-at three yen a month, but he
-was working hard, and in time hoped
-to save up enough money to buy his
-own carriage and be his own master.
-In addition to his business capacity,
-he had a quick eye for what was
-really fine, and always used the utmost<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span>
-taste in the selection of his
-bouquets.</p>
-
-<p>On one occasion he was delightfully
-æsthetic. We had been riding in a
-suburban district, and the roads were
-lined with wild-flowers. We paused
-a moment for a little rest, and lounged
-around in the grass in various attitudes
-of ease. I grieve to record that
-Cho leaned his head against a tree
-and went to sleep, but I have a better
-tale to tell of Eba. I could see him
-wandering around at a short distance,
-picking now and then a flower, which
-he arranged with the utmost care.
-He seemed to bestow a large amount
-of thought on every fresh addition,
-rejecting many a posy that he had
-selected, and starting on a new search
-for something he had not yet found.
-Finally satisfied, he returned and presented
-me with the result. It was a
-little bouquet not as large as your<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">256</span>
-thumb, but perfect in every detail. It
-was surrounded by a thin border of
-green, and the flowers were the tiniest
-I had yet seen in this land of tiny
-things. The production was a real
-work of art, and could never have
-been accomplished but by a man of
-inherent delicacy. It seemed almost
-a sacrilege after this that my tasteful
-friend should be subjected to the
-indignity of lifting the <i class="translit">’rikisha</i> shafts,
-and toiling up the steep hills like an
-ordinary soul.</p>
-
-<p>Eba’s attachment was a kind that
-manifested itself in smiles. The profoundness
-of his bow was also an
-excellent gauge of his devotion; had
-anything happened the day before to
-jar upon his sensitive nature, his body
-would be sure to incline itself a little
-more stiffly than usual. These little
-congelations would occur when the
-spray of cherry-blossoms that he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span>
-had laid on our sitting-room table had
-remained unnoticed, or when we had
-declined an offer to take a sunset ride.
-When all was sailing smoothly on,
-however, his bow was a thing in
-which his whole body played a part,
-and his smile would often degenerate
-into a grin. I was curious to know
-something about his home-life; but
-my questions elicited no confidences.
-I often wondered where he stole away
-in the night-time, and what his own
-domestic ties might be. But I never
-learned; whenever the morning came,
-there he sat between the shafts of his
-<i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>, with the sleepy Cho at his
-side, and this was the only glance I
-could get into the manner of his life.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_257" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 29em;">
-  <img src="images/i_258.jpg" width="1838" height="1319" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>In other more tangible ways, however,
-did Eba display his kindly spirit.
-He early learned my admiration for
-the mountain of Fujiyama, and the
-desire I felt to view it under the most<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span>
-promising circumstances. It is not
-the easiest thing in the world to see
-this capricious peak, owing to the
-dense mist that almost constantly envelops
-it; you have to await your
-chance, which is not likely to come
-many times. Eba took it upon himself
-to keep a careful watch of affairs,
-and spent a large part of his time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span>
-with his eyes towards the West.
-One day he ran into my room in the
-utmost excitement, and going to the
-window pulled the curtain aside, with
-the air of a long-nourished wish
-fulfilled.</p>
-
-<p>“Come, Mississy, quick,” he exclaimed.
-“See Fuji!”</p>
-
-<p>And there was Fuji indeed, towering
-in the golden sunset, its outlines
-clearly marked against the sky, and
-its summit wrapped in glistening
-snow.</p>
-
-<p>But his attachment still expressed
-itself most touchingly in flowers. I
-know he kept a careful eye upon me
-to see what I did with his offerings,
-and when I occasionally wore one of
-his bouquets, his smiles and bows
-reached their highest extravagance.
-One morning he appeared early at the
-door with a beaming face, though it
-bore evidence of some anxiety, as if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span>
-he had formed a plan of the success
-of which he was doubtful.</p>
-
-<p>“Come, Mississy,” he said, pointing
-to the awaiting <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>.</p>
-
-<p>But I was too busy that day, and
-told him I could not go. He seemed
-almost ready to cry, and looked up to
-me again appealingly.</p>
-
-<p>“Some other day, Eba,” I returned.</p>
-
-<p>“No, no,—to-day. Cannot see
-to-morrow.”</p>
-
-<p>After a little further conversation, I
-decided to spend a few moments this
-way, and so stepped into the <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>.
-He started off in high glee, and
-ran at a pace that would have terrified
-me had any other than Eba held the
-shafts. One or two small children
-who were so unfortunate as to be in
-his way were overturned with a single
-thrust of his arm and went rolling
-over into the gutter. Eba laughed
-loudly at his little joke, and shouted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span>
-lustily to Cho, who passed us with a
-perplexed and disapproving shake of
-the head. Finally we drew up before
-a florist’s shop, and Eba proudly led
-the way to the shrine of his peculiar
-pilgrimage.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_261" class="figright" style="max-width: 8em;">
-  <img src="images/i_261.jpg" width="478" height="938" alt="" /></div>
-
-<p>He stopped before a small potted
-plant, and pointed at it with a smile.
-I was amazed to see a
-tiny pine-tree not over
-six inches high, but perfectly
-formed in the smallest
-detail. I had seen
-many other Japanese experiments
-in minuteness,
-but this surpassed them
-all. Eba was delighted
-with my satisfaction, and
-informed me that this
-thrifty dwarf had been
-growing for many years. It was
-to be on exhibition for that day
-only, and this explained his anxiety<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span>
-that I should visit the shop that
-morning.</p>
-
-<p>When I told my two friends that
-we were to leave Yokohama, and
-spend a few weeks in China, their
-faces suddenly fell, and only brightened
-when I added that our journey
-would be a short one, and that we
-should expect to see them on our
-return. They carefully inquired when
-we were to go, and the exact time we
-were to stay. We thought little of
-this until, after having spent the allotted
-number of days in the land of
-the pig-tail, we rode into the station
-at Yokohama. During my absence I
-had given many a thought to the
-two friends, and wondered whether
-their thoughts of us had vanished
-when we ourselves left their sight.
-I was somewhat surprised, as well as
-pleased, as the train drew in, to see
-two familiar figures enjoying the old-time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span>
-repose between the same <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i>
-shafts. They were Cho and Eba,
-who eagerly came forward as the
-train drew to a stop, and scanned the
-passengers. One or two of those
-alighting tried to engage their services,
-but in vain. Eba first caught
-sight of us, and came up bowing,
-smilingly followed by the less demonstrative
-Cho, whose face, however,
-disclosed that he was a delighted man.
-Eba later informed us that they had
-carefully counted the days and the
-trains, and had hit upon the exact time
-that we should return.</p>
-
-<p>And now there were more bouquets,
-more smiles and bows, and
-more polishing of <i class="translit">jinrikisha</i> wheels.
-Again did Eba keep a watchful eye
-upon Fuji, and many a glimpse of the
-majestic mountain did I owe to him.
-But the time came when all this had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span>
-to end, and when we must sail away
-from Japan for home. They realised
-this with regret at least, and during
-the last few days were more attentive
-than ever before. Steamer-day came
-at last, when we should have to bid
-farewell to our friends, perhaps forever.
-Eba and Cho were not the
-only ones to regret the parting. They
-had become such familiar companions,
-and had served us so faithfully, that
-we disliked to think that we should
-see them no more.</p>
-
-<p>Early in the morning of the day of
-separation I heard a gentle knock at
-the door. When I opened it I could
-see nothing at first but a huge bouquet
-of beautiful Japanese roses.
-Presently the roses bowed up and
-down, and I heard a familiar voice
-come from behind them. “For Mississy.”
-It was Eba’s farewell present!</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span></p>
-
-<p>Cho, softened a little at the thought
-of parting, was also without, and both
-came into the room and helped us
-pack our trunks, and performed various
-little acts of kindness. The ride
-along the Bund was the slowest we
-ever took; Eba had lost much of his
-sprightliness, and Cho’s poor old legs
-lagged more than ever. They insisted
-on going aboard the boat with us,
-and tried to find pretext after pretext
-for remaining, long after their
-usefulness was over. Finally the last
-blast of the steam whistle was heard,
-and Cho and Eba reluctantly moved
-away.</p>
-
-<p>“Good-bye, Eba! Good-bye, Cho!
-Perhaps we shall return some day.”</p>
-
-<p>“Good-bye, Mississy.”</p>
-
-<p>I offered Eba my hand. It was
-probably the first experience of the
-kind he had ever had, and he looked<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span>
-at it with a puzzled air. Finally he
-just touched it with the tips of his
-copper fingers, and sadly bowed himself
-away.</p>
-
-<div id="ip_266" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 23em;">
-  <img src="images/i_266.jpg" width="1453" height="1098" alt="" />
-  <div class="caption">SAYONARA</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="chapter"><div class="transnote">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
-
-<p>Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made
-consistent when a predominant preference was found
-in the original book; otherwise they were not changed.</p>
-
-<p>Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced
-quotation marks were remedied when the change was
-obvious, and otherwise left unbalanced.</p>
-
-<p>Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned
-between paragraphs and outside quotations.</p>
-
-<p>The illustration on <a href="#ip_180">page 180</a> is shown with a
-light grey background because removing that background also removed the
-delicate structure of the content.</p>
-
-</div>
-</div>
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