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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #68282 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68282)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Butchering and curing meats in China,
-by Carl Oscar Levine
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Butchering and curing meats in China
-
-Author: Carl Oscar Levine
-
-Release Date: June 10, 2022 [eBook #68282]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Anonymous (This book was produced from images made
- available by the HathiTrust Digital Library and the
- Internet Archive.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUTCHERING AND CURING MEATS
-IN CHINA ***
-
-
-
-
-
- Canton Christian College
-
- BULLETIN NO. 27
-
- BUTCHERING AND CURING
- MEATS IN CHINA
-
- BY
-
- CARL OSCAR LEVINE
-
- Associate Professor of Animal Husbandry
-
-
- Canton, China
-
- 1921
-
-
-
-
- Butchering and Curing Meats in China
-
- CONTENTS
-
-
- Preface
-
- Introduction
-
- Origin of Meat Foods
-
- Food Animals in China Section
- Hogs 1
- Cattle 2
- Water Buffalo 3
- Sheep and Goats 4
- Poultry 5
-
- Selection of Animals for Slaughter
- Health 6
- Condition 7
- Breeding 8
- Feeding 9
- Age and Size for Killing 10
-
- Preparation of the Animals for Slaughter
-
- Bleeding and Dressing Hogs
- Tools 11
- Scalding Equipment 12
- Killing the Hog 13
- “Watered” Meat 14
- Scalding and Scraping 15
- Gutting 16
- Cooling the Carcass 17
- Cutting up the Carcass 18
- Shoulders 19
- Middle Part 20
- Hams 21
- Trimmings 22
- Head 23
- Feet 24
-
- Killing and Dressing Beef
- Tools 25
- Stunning 26
- Bleeding 27
- Skinning and Gutting 28
- Treatment of Hides 29
-
- Killing and Dressing Sheep
- Stunning and Bleeding 30
- Skinning 31
- Gutting 32
-
- Bleeding and Dressing Poultry
- Bleeding and Picking 33
-
- Keeping Meat Fresh
-
- Curing Meats: American Methods
- Preparing the Meat for Curing 34
- Vessels for Curing 35
- Curing Agents 36
-
- Wet and Dry Cures Compared
-
- Recipes for Curing Meats
- Corned Beef 37
- Dried Beef 38
- Plain Salt Pork 39
- Dry Cured Pork 40
- Sugar Cured Pork 41
- Pork Sausage 42
- Mixed Meat Sausage 43
- Bologna Sausage 45
- Smoked, or Country Sausage 46
- Frankfort, or Vienna Sausage 47
- Liver Sausage 48
- Summer Sausage 49
- Headcheese 50
- Scrapple 51
- Snow Packing 52
- Partial Cooking 53
- Rendering Lard 54
- Smoked Meats 55
- The Smoke House 56
- The Fuel 57
- Preparing Meat for Smoking 58
- The Fire 59
- Keeping Smoked Meats 60
- Recipe for Yellow Wash 61
-
- Chinese Meat Recipes
- Bean Sauce Sausage (腊腸) 62
- Pickle for Bean Sauce Sausage 63
- Preparing the Meat for Sausage 64
- Sausage Casing (腸衣) 65
- Softening the Casing 66
- Filling the Casing 67
- Sunning and Drying 68
- Season and Weather for Making Sausage 69
- Lean Pork Sausage (瘦肉腸) 70
- Liver Sausage (潤腸) 71
- _Tung Koon_ Sausage (東莞腊腸) 72
- Oyster Sauce Sausage (蠔油腸) 73
- Catsup Sausage 74
- Roast or Baked Sausage (火腸) 75
- Cured Ham 76
- Sun Dried Pork (瘦𦡳肉) 77
- Pickled Pig’s Feet (札蹄) 78
- Pickled Beef 79
- Dried Rice Birds (腊禾花雀) 80
- Pork Stuffed Liver (金銀潤) 81
- _Lo Mei_ (鹵味) 82
- Roast Meat (燒肉) 83
- Dried Duck (𦡳鴨) 84
- Puffed Pig Skin (豬皮) 85
-
-
-
-
- Preface
-
-
-This bulletin discusses the different methods, both Chinese and
-foreign, of butchering and curing meats. The aim has been to present
-the material in a practical way so as to be of value to the general
-public as well as of special service in connection with the courses in
-Meats offered at the Canton Christian College.
-
-The writer realizes that this bulletin is not complete, in that the
-subject, especially in regard to curing meats in different parts of
-China, is far from exhausted. However, it is thought best to publish
-in this form, and in a later edition to include additional material
-which may be secured on the subject. Constructive criticism on this
-bulletin will be received gladly.
-
-The writer is especially indebted to the United States Department of
-Agriculture for permission to use material from its publications.
-Special acknowledgment is also due to Mr. Taam Sik Hung and Mr. W. L.
-Funkhouser of the agricultural staff of the Canton Christian College,
-who have made valuable suggestions in the preparation of the
-manuscript, to agricultural students who have taken the course in
-Meats under the writer’s supervision and have assisted in securing the
-data on Chinese methods of curing meats, and to Mr. A. H. Holt,
-Instructor of English in Canton Christian College, for his assistance
-in reading the manuscript.
-
- C. O. Levine
-
-
-
-
- Butchering and Curing Meats in China
-
- Introduction
-
-
-The Chinese, like most people, are lovers of pork, beef, mutton, and
-poultry, and consume these meats, both fresh and cured, in large
-quantities each year.
-
-Fresh meat is practically all consumed within a few miles of the
-locality in which it is butchered. However large quantities of cured
-meats, especially cured pork and duck, are shipped long distances from
-the localities where they are cured. Cured hams and bacon are shipped
-from Kuling north to Peking, and south to Canton. Yunnan exports to
-Canton and other parts of China, to the Philippine Islands and other
-countries to the south, a considerable quantity of home cured ham,
-which is quite popular with the Chinese in those regions. On the other
-hand, a good deal of cured ham and bacon is imported, chiefly from
-Australia and England, to the various ports of China and finds its way
-inland.
-
-For a number of years Canton Christian College has been studying the
-butchering and curing problems as they exist in southern China,
-particularly in the region of Canton. Meats of various kinds have
-been butchered and cured by the College. Both the foreign and
-Chinese methods of handling the meat have been practiced and
-studied. In this work special attention has been given to the
-butchering and curing of pork.
-
-The climate of Canton is one not especially well adapted to
-curing meat. This is due to the fact that the temperature never falls
-below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, even in the coldest winter season.
-Further, this low a temperature is not maintained more than a few
-days of the winter season, and only at night. Before noon it usually
-rises to 50 or 60, following even the coldest nights. In spite of the
-fact that the temperature never gets very low, the work at the College
-has demonstrated that it is possible to produce good cured meat, if
-done properly, even without the use of ice. However there is some
-risk of the meat spoiling without ice, and it is recommended,
-especially in curing large pieces of meat, such as hams and shoulders,
-that ice be used to facilitate the cooling of the meat before the cure
-is applied.
-
-
-
-
- Origin of Meat Foods
-
-
-Man uses for his meat diet almost all classes of animal life. However,
-the principal classes of animals that supply the human race with meat
-food are: cattle, hogs, sheep, poultry, and, in China and southern
-Europe, the buffalo. In Northern China the camel and in Western China
-the yak are also used to some extent for food. Such animals as birds
-(other than poultry), rabbits, fish and other forms of water life,
-while of importance, do not provide as large a supply of meat food as
-do the domesticated animals mentioned above.
-
-
-
-
- Food Animals in China
-
-
-The animals in China from which the main supply of meat comes are
-swine, cattle, water buffalo, and poultry (including chickens, ducks,
-and geese).
-
-
-§ 1. Hogs
-
-Hogs in China are of both the bacon and lard types. The lard type is
-the most common, except in the provinces of Yunnan, Szechwan, and some
-regions in central China, where the bacon type is found.
-
-The Chinese lard hogs are characterized by their large, pendulous
-bellies, sway-backs, light hams, and by their slowness in maturing.
-They are inferior hogs when compared with the improved breeds of
-Europe and America, but as a rule are better than the native hogs
-found in other parts of the Orient. Their large bellies and low backs
-are largely due to the fact that from the time the pigs begin to eat
-until they are butchered, all concentrate feeds are given in the form
-of a very wet swill, and they are allowed to drink all they can hold
-of such feed twice a day. Such feeding stretches the digestive tract
-to an abnormal degree, and permanently enlarges the belly and pulls
-down the back. By giving less water with the feed, and not allowing
-the pigs to fill up with all they can possibly hold, this abnormal
-development can largely be prevented. Intelligent breeding for several
-generations, by mating animals with the most desirable conformation,
-such as straight backs, wide, deep hams, long, deep bodies, short
-heads, and short legs, should bring about further improvement.
-Breeding for fast growing and early maturing animals should also be
-practiced, as the most profitable feeding is with young animals.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1. Heifer two years old of the native humped
-variety]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2. Beef-draft water buffalos with calves a few
-weeks old]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3. Chinese “fat-tailed” variety of sheep]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4. Chinese lard hogs ready for butchering raised
-at Canton Christian College]
-
-It is interesting to note that years ago the native lard hog of
-southern China was used to secure desirable characters in two of our
-most important modern breeds, the Berkshire and the Poland China
-breeds. However, since that time these western breeds have been
-further greatly improved by intelligent selection and breeding, while
-the Chinese hogs have been very little improved, if at all. To-day, in
-comparing the native Chinese lard hog with the modern western breeds,
-there is no resemblance in the Chinese hog to the wide, slightly
-arched back, deep, long sides, deep, full hams, small heads, short
-legs, and rapid growth of these modern breeds which have, in their
-origin, blood of the native Chinese lard hog.
-
-Due to slow maturity and undesirable conformation, the Chinese hog is
-not as economical in converting feeds into meat as is the improved
-western hog. However, the meat is of good flavor and can be
-successfully cured. An exception to this is the case of animals that
-have been largely fed on rice bran, which produces a soft, oily pork,
-although no difficulty is experienced in curing such pork. Wheat bran
-produces a firm flesh. If a firm flesh is desired, it is important
-that rice bran or polish not be fed to hogs during the last six to
-eight weeks of the fattening period.
-
-
-§ 2. Cattle
-
-The main source of beef in China is the native “humped” cow, called by
-the people of southern China _Wong Ngau_ which means “yellow cow”.
-This native variety of humped cattle is a good beef animal, although
-there is room for a great deal of improvement by breeding for early
-maturity, greater size, and development of a more distinctly beef type.
-
-
-§ 3. Water Buffalo Beef
-
-The water buffalo, while chiefly used for draft purposes, is an
-important source of beef in China. There is very little difference in
-quality between the Chinese buffalo beef and ordinary beef. However,
-the lean meat of the buffalo is considerably darker in color than the
-lean meat in ordinary beef.
-
-Young stock, up to three years old, that have not been used for draft
-purposes, are best for beef. Beef from buffalos or cattle that have
-been used for work for some time before butchering is generally tough,
-and less palatable than beef from animals that have not been worked.
-
-
-§ 4. Sheep and Goats
-
-In northern China, especially in the provinces of Shantung and Chihli,
-the fat-tailed variety of sheep is raised to a considerable extent,
-both for mutton and for wool. The covering of wool is light, however,
-when compared with that of the wool breeds, and this sheep is properly
-classed as a mutton sheep. They are so called because of their large
-fat tails, which are about three to four inches thick, six to eight
-inches wide, and eight to ten inches long. Fat-tailed sheep are
-shipped by rail and by boat to many parts of China from the regions in
-which they are raised.
-
-The goat, while of less importance than the sheep as a source of meat,
-is raised in limited numbers in many parts of China for meat purposes.
-Meat from the goat is considered inferior to that from sheep.
-
-
-§ 5. Poultry
-
-The most common of all animal food in China is probably poultry. Many
-varieties of chickens, ducks, and geese are raised. Some of the best
-breeds of chickens for meat are the Langshang, from the Shanghai
-region, of which there are two varieties, the black and the white; and
-the Swatow, of which there are also two varieties, the white and buff.
-These breeds are large and meaty, individuals weighing from five to
-eight pounds. There is a number of other distinct breeds and varieties
-of chickens, which, while they are not as good for meat as the above,
-due to their smaller size, are used extensively for food.
-
-In the region of Canton, the common variety of chickens used for
-meat, and also for egg production, is a small buff-colored variety,
-generally more or less mixed with other varieties. This variety,
-which is called _wong kai_ (黃雞) by the Cantonese, is becoming very
-popular in the Philippine Islands, where it is called the
-“Cantonese” chicken because of its introduction from Canton.
-
-The most common ducks of southern China are of a dark colored variety.
-In north China the white Peking duck is the common variety. Both are
-excellent for meat.
-
-There are three varieties of Chinese geese; the grey, white,
-and brown. The grey variety is probably more generally used for
-meat than are the other two varieties. It is the only variety raised
-on a large scale in southern China, and its meat is of excellent
-quality. Chinese geese are distinguished from other breeds of geese
-by the fleshy protuberance at the base of the bill and front of the
-skull.
-
-
-
-
- Selection of Animals for Slaughter
-
-
-§ 6. Health
-
-In the selection of animals for slaughter health should be given first
-consideration. Even though the animal has been fairly fed and carries
-a prime finish, the best quality of meat cannot be obtained if the
-animal is unhealthy. If the animal has fever or serious derangement of
-any kind, the meat will not be wholesome. There is little direct
-evidence of harmful results from the use of animals in the first
-stages of such diseases as tuberculosis, cholera, plague, rinderpest,
-and such diseases, but the only safe course is to discourage the use
-of any animal for food that is known to be in imperfect health. The
-keeping qualities of meat are always impaired by fever or other
-derangements of the system. Bruises, broken limbs, and like accidents
-all have the same effect on the meat as ill health, and unless the
-animal can be dressed immediately after such accidents, it is best not
-to use the meat for food. This is especially true if the rise in
-temperature, which usually results from such accidents, has been 2
-degrees F. or more. A rise in temperature just before slaughtering
-usually results in a stringy, bluish meat, which is difficult to cure.
-Animals should not be butchered while in heat, as the meat of such
-animals will be strong, and cannot be cured, as it sours quickly.
-
-
-§ 7. Condition
-
-First class meat cannot be obtained from animals in poor flesh.
-The proper amount of fat must be present to give juiciness and
-flavor to the meat. It is more important, however, that the animal
-should be in good physical condition than that it should be very
-fat. “Never kill an animal when it is losing flesh” is a maxim
-followed by butchers. There is a good deal of truth in the saying.
-When the animal is losing in flesh, the muscle fibers are shrinking
-in volume and contain correspondingly less water. As a result, the
-meat is tougher and drier. When an animal is gaining in flesh, the
-opposite condition prevails, and a better quality of meat results.
-Also, a better quality of meat will be obtained from an animal in
-medium flesh, but gaining in weight, than from a very fat animal
-that is neither gaining nor losing in flesh.
-
-
-§ 8. Breeding
-
-Because of careless selection of breeding stock, most of the hogs in
-the region of Canton have low backs, large bellies, scant hams, never
-produce the best quality of meat, and have a low dressing percentage.
-The improved hog with a level or slightly arched wide back, long,
-deep, smooth sides, full hams, and short neck and head, has meat of
-the best quality, and such hogs have the highest dressing percentage.
-Fine bone, soft hair, and mellow flesh, qualities generally found in
-well bred animals, are desired in all animals used for meat, as they
-indicate meat of a good quality, with a minimum of waste.
-
-
-§ 9. Feeding
-
-The kind of food the hog gets during the last six or eight weeks of
-the fattening period largely determines the flavor and the character
-of the meat. During that period, it is best not to feed very much of
-rice bran, or peanut cake, as when such feeds are given they produce
-very soft, oily fat. Wheat bran and corn produce a firm fat, and one
-or the other, or both together, should constitute a large part of the
-grain ration for the fattening hog.
-
-
-§ 10. Age and Size for Killing
-
-It is a well known fact that meat from an old animal is very likely to
-be tough and difficult to cook sufficiently to make it tender. On the
-other hand, meat from very young animals is watery and often lacks
-flavor. An old animal in good condition is to be preferred to a young
-one in poor condition. Hogs can be killed for meat any time after six
-weeks, but the most profitable age at which to slaughter is from eight
-to ten months. Hogs at that age have a higher dressing percentage than
-when younger. Gain in weight is made at a lower cost in young animals
-than in older animals. For this reason, it is not advisable to keep a
-hog much longer than twelve months, or a beef animal more than two
-years, unless feed is very cheap.
-
-If the pork is to be cured, the hogs for butchering should weigh from
-one hundred and thirty to two hundred pounds. Larger hogs can be
-butchered conveniently, although a hog much heavier will be more
-difficult to handle.
-
-In southern China, where the day temperature is seldom below sixty
-degrees Fahrenheit during the butchering season, a difficulty in
-cooling the meat will be experienced, unless ice is used, and if the
-meat is not properly cooled it will not cure well.
-
-Chickens have the most tender meat at the age of three to six months,
-depending on the variety, and at that age sell for the highest price.
-Poultry that have just reached maturity are best for curing.
-
-
-
-
- Preparation of the Animals for Slaughter
-
-
-It is important that the animal to be slaughtered should not be given
-food from twenty to thirty hours before slaughtering. If kept on full
-feed until just before it is killed the circulatory system is gorged,
-and the blood, loaded with assimilated nutrients is driven to the
-extremities of the capillaries. In such condition, it is impossible to
-drain the veins thoroughly, and a reddish colored, unattractive
-carcass will result. Food in the digestive tract decomposes very
-rapidly after the animal is killed, and when the dressing is slow the
-gases from such decomposing food are apt to flavor the meat.
-
-Water should be given freely up to the time of slaughter, as it helps
-to keep the temperature normal and helps to wash the waste matter from
-the system, resulting in a nicely colored carcass.
-
-The care of the animals before slaughter has considerable effect on
-the meat. They should not be excited in any way sufficiently to raise
-the body temperature. Excitement will prevent proper draining of the
-blood vessels, and, if extreme, will cause souring of the meat on
-curing. An animal should never be killed immediately after it has been
-heated by a hard run. It is better to let such an animal rest until
-the next day rather than to run the risk of the meat spoiling, as the
-meat of an animal that has been overheated will not keep well. Such
-meat is usually of pale color and very often will become sour or
-putrid within three or four days after it has been dressed, even
-though kept near the freezing point while it is being cured.
-
-Care should be taken not to bruise the animals in handling them just
-before killing. Bruises cause the blood to settle in the part of the
-carcass affected, presenting an uninviting appearance, besides
-affecting the curing qualities of the meat.
-
-Before killing, a twenty-five hour fast, plenty of clean water,
-careful handling and rest, are all important items in securing the
-best quality of meat, either for cooking fresh or for curing purposes.
-
-
-
-
- Bleeding and Dressing Hogs
-
-
-§ 11. Tools
-
-The essential tools for doing good work at killing time are: A good
-sticking knife, a cleaver, a 14-inch steel on which to sharpen the
-knives, hog hooks, bell-shaped scrapers, meat saw, and gambrel. More
-than one of each tool is necessary if many hogs are to be butchered
-and handled efficiently. A block and tackle will reduce labor in
-hanging the hog for gutting.
-
-
-§ 12. Scalding Equipment
-
-In China, the water for scalding is heated in a sort of a furnace
-commonly called _t’ong chue ts’o_. (劏豬灶). The furnace is made of
-brick and concrete, or concrete only. It is usually about thirty-six
-inches wide, six feet long, and twenty-eight inches high at one end,
-gradually sloping to about twenty-six inches high near the other end,
-where a large brass or iron basin for holding water is placed over a
-fire grate. The basin in which the water is heated is usually about
-twenty inches in diameter, eight inches deep in the center, and
-diminishing in depth from the center to the rim. The shallow basin
-with large contact with the fire obtains quick heating and saving of
-fuel. The top of the furnace is made to slope from all sides toward
-the bowl so that, when hot water is poured on the hog which lies on
-the table, the water runs back into the basin.
-
-
-§ 13. Killing the Hog
-
-All tools and apparatus used in killing and handling the animal should
-be ready before it is killed. The knives and saws should be sharp and
-clean. The water should be near the boiling point and the block and
-tackle ready, if one is to be used.
-
-The common and most satisfactory method of killing the hog is by
-severing the large arteries and veins in the neck of the animal with a
-sticking knife about nine inches long. The animal should be laid on
-its back and held firmly while it is being stuck. Two men can handle
-a large hog if they work intelligently. By reaching under the animal and
-grasping the opposite legs and suddenly jerking the legs, a heavy hog
-can be easily turned over on its back. One man standing astride the
-animal with his feet close against its sides, and holding the front
-legs, can easily control it while the other does the sticking.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5. Tools Used by Chinese in Butchering.
-
- Lower Row Right to Left.
- Sticking knife.
- Cutting and scraping knives.
- Heavy knife for cutting meat.
- Knife for cutting bone.
- Cleaver.
- Funnel for Stuffing sausage casing.
- Hook used in handling meat that is being roasted.
- Tool used in roasting meat.
-
- Upper Row Right to Left.
- Cork with needles for pricking casing when it is being filled
- in order to let out the air.
- Hooks for handling carcass.]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6. Hog scraped and hung up for gutting]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7. Scraping the hog on the “_t’ong chue t’so_”]
-
-It is a common custom with Chinese butchers to lay the hog across a
-narrow bench for sticking. This requires more handling of the animal
-then when the animal is simply turned over on its back on the floor,
-or on a low table or box for the sticking.
-
-The sticking knife should have a blade eight or nine inches long. In
-America, a knife with straight edges, which at the end tapers to a
-point is used, while in China, a knife tapering from two inches wide
-at the handle to a long, narrow point is used. Either type of knife
-will do. The knife should be thrust diagonally into the neck for about
-six to eight inches of its length, depending on the size of the hog.
-It should be inserted on the middle line of the body, about three or
-four inches in front of the sternum, with the sharp edge of the knife
-toward the rear and the knife pointed in the direction of the loin of
-the hog. One hand of the operator should be held on the lower jaw of
-the hog to help hold the animal steady. It will require a little
-practice to stick properly. If rightly done, the large blood vessels
-will be severed, the animal will bleed quickly, and be dead in less
-than five minutes.
-
-In large packing houses, where each man has a certain piece of work to
-do, the hogs are hung by one leg upon a moving over-head track. As the
-hogs move by the killer, he grasps one front leg with one hand, and,
-with the other hand, does the sticking. Such an arrangement is
-practical where a large number of hogs is killed daily.
-
-
-§ 14. “Watered” Meat
-
-There is a very common practice in China of increasing the weight of
-the dressed hog carcass by forcing water into the meat as soon as the
-blood has drained away and the scraping is finished. Water is forced
-in through the large blood vessels leading away from the heart. To do
-this properly, care is taken in sticking not to sever the large blood
-vessels from the heart. This is accomplished by using a long, narrow
-sticking knife, which is thrust into the heart itself. The animal thus
-stuck bleeds into the chest cavity, which is not desirable, as the
-bleeding will not be as thorough as when the large blood vessels only
-are severed. The carcass of the hog may be increased several pounds by
-this treatment. It is difficult to detect from the appearance of the
-pork whether or not it has been watered. On roasting, watered meat
-shrinks more than normal meat. Watered meat will spoil quicker than
-normal meat, and will not cure well. The practice of “watering” meat
-should be discouraged.
-
-
-§ 15. Scalding and Scraping
-
-An soon as the hog is dead, it must be scalded and the hair and scurf
-quickly removed. The animal is then placed on the top of the _t’ong
-chue ts’o_. The head and shoulders are scalded first. They should be
-immersed in the water, which should be from 185 to 190 degrees
-Fahrenheit. If the water is hotter, the hair will set. Care should be
-taken to keep the carcass constantly moving by turning it from side to
-side, in other to get a uniform scald and not to allow the carcass to
-stay in contact with the bottom of the bowl in which the water is
-being heated. Occasionally it should be removed from the water and the
-hair “tried”. As soon as the hair and scurf slip easily, the scalding
-is complete. The hind quarters are scalded in the same manner. The
-head and feet should be scraped first, as the hair sets on those parts
-first. Two or three pounds of wood ashes put in the water will help
-loosen the scurf. Proper scalding and scraping require fast work. If
-the carcass gets cold before the hair has been removed, the hair will
-set and have to be removed by shaving with a sharp knife. For
-scraping, the candle-stick or bell-shaped scraper is best. What cannot
-be removed with it, can be removed with a sharp, curved knife.
-
-In America when only from one to three hogs are butchered
-at a time the custom is to heat the water in a large kettle over a stove
-or out-door fire. The hot water is poured into a barrel which is
-tipped at an angle with the top of the table, the top of the table being
-level with the lower side of the top of the barrel. The hog is
-slid into the barrel, first the head end, and then the rear end. The
-body is kept in motion by pulling it up and down until it is scalded,
-and the hair and scurf slip well. This is a quick method of scalding
-as much of the hog can be immersed in the water at one time,
-but it requires more labor than does the method of scalding with the
-_t’ong chue ts’o_.
-
-In large packing houses, the hogs are automatically scalded and
-scraped, by being drawn through a tube filled with water of the proper
-temperature. Stiff brushes on the inside of the tube remove the hair
-and scurf as the hog passes through.
-
-
-§ 16. Gutting
-
-The entrails of the hog may be removed with the hog lying on a table,
-as is the common practice in the Canton region. The hog should be
-propped so that it lies on its back. However, it is more conveniently
-done with the hog hung up by its hind legs. To hang up the hog
-requires what is known as a gambrel, which may be simply a strong
-stick, pointed at the ends, about an inch and a half in diameter and
-eighteen inches long, a block and tackle, and a secure place
-over-head, about nine feet high, for attaching one end of the tackle.
-With a sharp knife, the cords in the hind legs just above the
-dew claws are separated from the bone enough to allow inserting the
-sharpened end of the gambrel, and thus spreading the legs. The gambrel
-should have a hook or ring in the center for attaching it to one end
-of a block and tackle. The carcass is then lifted so that the head end
-clears the floor or ground about four inches. A better and more
-convenient gambrel may be made of iron and adjustable for hogs of
-different sizes.
-
-After the hog is hung up, clean water should be poured on it and it
-should then be scraped clean of all remaining patches of hair, scurf,
-or dirt. The head should then be removed by cutting through the flesh
-to the atlas joint where the neck joins the head, cutting entirely
-around the neck about an inch back of the ears. If the head does not
-drop off, it can be easily removed by grasping it by the ears and
-twisting it.
-
-If removing the entrails, first cut through the flesh between the hind
-legs, to the bone, and split the pelvic bones with a saw or cleaver.
-Cutting through the bone is easily done if the cut through the flesh
-is made on the midline between the hind legs, as the bone is very thin
-at that point. Cut through the flesh down the midline of the belly
-toward the head, to the breastbone. In doing this, care should be
-taken not to cut the intestines, which lie just beneath the thick
-layer of fat meat. By shielding the point of the knife with the left
-hand and guiding it with the right, there is little danger of cutting
-the intestines. The entrails are now exposed, and the fat from around
-the stomach should be removed. This fat is strong in flavor and should
-not be mixed with the leaf fat. Cut around the anus close to the tail
-and strip the rectum from its attachment to the back bone. A string
-should be tightly tied around the end of the rectum and the urethra so
-that there will be no danger of the contents of the intestines or
-bladder soiling the meat. If the animal is a male, care should be
-taken not to cut the penis in making the cut down the midline of the
-body and between the hind legs. The penis should be stripped from the
-fat in which it is embedded, and thrown over the back of the animal
-out of the way of the butcher. Then remove the stomach and intestines
-by cutting across the gullet, after first pulling the gullet up into
-the chest cavity. Remove the liver from its attachment to the
-intestines and remove the gall bladder from its attachment to the
-liver. Care should be taken not to cut the gall bladder. Now cut
-through the breast bone, beginning at the front end and cutting upward
-with a knife through the flesh to the bone. The bone is best cut with
-a saw, and the cut should be made upward. The “pluck”, which consists
-of the heart, lungs, and gullet, is removed by cutting across the
-artery which can be easily seen running down the backbone, and by
-cutting around the diaphragm close to the ribs. Split the backbone
-with a saw to facilitate cooling. In cutting, a knife should always be
-used for cutting through the flesh before the saw is used. If the saw
-is used for cutting the meat, the cut surface of the meat will have a
-rough, unattractive appearance.
-
-
-§ 17. Cooling the Carcass
-
-As a rule, the butchers in Canton cut up the carcass immediately after
-gutting. This may be necessary in a warm climate where no ice is used
-to facilitate cooling, in order to prevent the meat from souring, but
-the meat handles much better if it is cooled before it is cut up. This
-may be done during the cold weather of the winter season by butchering
-in the evening and allowing the carcass to cool over night, or by
-placing the meat in a refrigerator, at a temperature of from 34 to 40
-degrees Fahrenheit. Freshly killed meat absorbs odors very readily and
-there should be no fresh paint, tar, kerosene, or like substances near
-the fresh meat.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 8. A good lard hog. Note the full back and hams,
-short neck, deep sides, short legs, and excellent quality]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 9. Dressed carcass: 1, hams; 2, bacon; 3, fatback;
-4, shoulder; 5, jowl; 6, shoulder butt; 7, leaf lard; 8, ribs;
-9, fat back and chops; 10, head.]
-
-
-§ 18. Cutting up the Carcass
-
-After the two halves of the carcass have been cooled, they may be
-placed on a table with the meat side up. The front legs are removed
-about an inch above the knee and the hind legs about an inch above the
-hock. Immediately remove the leaf lard and the kidneys, all in one
-piece, so as to facilitate cooling, using the hands to strip the leaf
-lard from its attachment to the sides. Strip out the tenderloin.
-Divide each half of the carcass into three parts, the shoulders,
-middle and hams. For cutting through the flesh, a heavy knife with a
-curved blade is best. A saw should be used in cutting through the
-bone. Cutting should be across the grain of the meat as much as is
-possible, in order that the meat will carve better after cooking.
-
-
-§ 19. Shoulders
-
-The shoulder cut is made between the fourth and fifth ribs, where the
-ribs leave the backbone. The cut should be made at right angles with
-the top and bottom edges of the middle piece in order to make a
-rectangular middle piece. This necessitates a diagonal cut across the
-end of the fourth rib. If the shoulders are to be cured, remove the
-ribs and the backbone from the shoulder piece. Cut close to the ribs
-in removing them in order to leave as much meat on the shoulder as is
-possible. Cut off the top of the shoulder with about one and one-half
-inches of the cartilage and bone at the top. This removes most of the
-fat meat and trims the shoulder for curing. The shoulder should be
-further trimmed by cutting off rough parts with a sharp knife.
-
-
-§ 20. Middle Part
-
-Separate the hams from the middle by cutting just back of the
-beginning of the rise in the backbone. The ribs should be separated
-from the side meat. If it is desired to make pork chops, care should
-be taken to leave the long muscle on either side of the backbone
-attached to the backbone and ribs. The end of the ribs should then be
-cut off with a cleaver, leaving about three inches of the ribs
-attached to the backbone to form part of the chops. In preparing the
-chops for roasting, cuts should be made through the meat between the
-ribs and between the vertebrae.
-
-It is the custom for butchers in Canton to remove all the meat from
-the ribs and backbone. The sides are then cut into strips about one
-inch wide, cutting from the top to the bottom, and used, fresh or
-cured. The ribs and backbone are then cut into small parts and
-prepared in a very tasty way with a sweet dressing. The dish prepared
-in this manner is known as _chue p’aai kwat_ (豬排骨).
-
-If the side meat is to be made into cured bacon, the first method of
-separating the ribs from the meat is followed. This leaves the side
-meat about one and a half to two inches thick. The strip of pure fat
-meat along the top, known as the fat back, the strip of belly fat at
-the bottom, up to, and including the teats, should be removed. The
-middle piece which is left after thus trimming, is used for making
-cured bacon. The fat back and the belly strip can be used for lard.
-
-
-§ 21. Hams
-
-If the hams are to be cured, all sharp points should be smoothed off,
-giving a neat, rounded shape to the ham.
-
-
-§ 22. Trimmings
-
-The small pieces of meat cut from the shoulders, hams, and middle
-pieces in trimming, maybe used fresh, or made into sausage. The fat of
-the trimmings may be used for making lard.
-
-
-§ 23. Head
-
-The fattest part of the head may be used for lard, or cut into strips
-about three quarters of an inch wide and cured, or it may be used for
-making sausage or head cheese. The snout, ears, and tongue may be used
-fresh or pickled.
-
-
-§ 24. Feet
-
-The small amount of meat on the feet is considered very delicious. The
-feet may be either cooked for immediate use, or they may be pickled.
-
-
-
-
- Killing and Dressing Beef
-
-
-§ 25. Tools
-
-The following tools are necessary for killing and dressing cattle: an
-ax, an 8-inch sticking knife, a skinning knife, a steel for sharpening
-the knives, a 28-inch meat saw, gambrel, and a block and tackle for
-hoisting up the carcass.
-
-
-§ 26. Stunning
-
-The first step in killing and dressing beef is to secure the animal so
-that it cannot possibly break loose. A strong halter, or new half-inch
-rope, tied around the neck and with one end tied to a ring in the
-floor, or to a tree, works very well. If the animal has a ring or a
-bar through the nose, as most cattle have in China, it should be
-further secured by tying with a strong rope attached to the ring or
-bar. The animal should be tied very short so that it cannot move its
-head to any extent.
-
-Stunning is done in two ways. One method is to strike a heavy blow
-with a stunning ax, weighing about three pounds, made especially for
-the purpose, with an extension head about an inch in diameter which
-readily crashes through the bone covering the brain, and into the
-brain itself. The blow should be struck in the center of the forehead.
-An ordinary ax with a long handle, can be used, although the kind
-described above is best, in that it is sure to stun the animal, and
-thus is most humane. The other method which is commonly used in
-southern China, is to strike just back of the poll, and dislocate the
-atlas joint. This is just as effective as a blew on the forehead, if
-the blow is struck with enough force. Water buffalos have a very hard
-skull and for this reason are sometimes shot. The end of the gun
-should be held close to the head and carefully aimed at a point in the
-center of the forehead, where lines would cross if drawn from the base
-of the right horn to the left eye, and from the base of the left horn
-to the right eye.
-
-
-§ 27. Bleeding
-
-The animal should be bled immediately after stunning or shooting. To
-do this properly requires practice. With the stunned animal lying
-stretched out on the floor, stand at its throat with the back toward
-its body. Place one foot against the jaw, and with the other hold back
-the front legs of the animal. Reaching down between the feet, lay open
-the skin from the breast toward the chin for a distance of about ten
-inches, using the ordinary skinning knife. Insert the knife with the
-back against the breastbone and the tip directed toward the spinal
-column at the top of the shoulders, cutting just under the windpipe,
-and about five or six inches deep. The vein and the artery cross at
-this point, and if they are severed, the blood will flow out very
-rapidly. When the vein has been cut below the windpipe, run a knife in
-on top of the windpipe and sever the blood vessels on that side also.
-If stuck too deep, the pleura will be punctured and the blood will
-flow into the chest cavity, causing a bloody carcass, which is not
-desirable.
-
-The animal will bleed out if the blood vessels on one side only are
-cut, but it will bleed more quickly if those on both sides are
-severed. A little practice is required to do it properly, but when
-once learned it is not easily forgotten.
-
-Bleeding can be accomplished, but not so rapidly, if the throat of the
-animal is simply cut, just back of the jaws.
-
-
-§ 28. Skinning and Gutting
-
-Begin skinning the carcass as it lies on its side, by splitting the
-skin down the face from the poll to the nose. Skin the face back over
-the eyes on both sides and down over the cheeks. Cut around the base
-of the horns, leaving the ears on the hide. Split the skin from the
-chin down the throat to meet the incision made in bleeding. Skin jaws,
-sides of neck, and a little distance back of poll. Remove the head by
-cutting from just back of jaws to the depression back of the poll. The
-atlas joint will be found at this point, and may be easily unjointed
-by cutting the ligaments which hold it in place.
-
-The carcass should then be rolled on its back and held there by a
-small stick about three feet long, with a sharp spike at the ends. One
-end should be stuck in the floor, and the other end braced against the
-brisket.
-
-Split the skin over the back of the fore legs from between the dew
-claws to a point three or four inches above the knee. Skin around the
-knee and the shin, unjointing the knee at the lowest articulation, and
-skin clear down to the hoof. The brisket and forearms should not be
-skinned until the carcass is hung up. Cut across the cord over the
-hind shin to release the foot. Split the skin from the dew claws to
-the hocks, and up the rear part of the thigh to a point four or six
-inches back of the cod or udder. Skin the hock and the shin, removing
-the leg at the lowest joint of the hock. In splitting the skin over
-the hock, the knife should be turned down flat with the edge pointing
-outward to avoid gashing the flesh. While the carcass is stretched
-flat, it is well to skin down over the rear of the lower thigh, but no
-attempt should be made to skin the outside of the thigh until the hind
-quarters are raised. After the legs are skinned, split the skin over
-the midline from the breast to the rectum.
-
-Begin at the flanks and skin along the midline until the side is
-nicely started. Then, with a sharp knife held nearly flat against the
-surface, and the hide stretched tightly, remove the skin down over the
-sides with steady, downward strokes of the knife. It is important that
-the skin be stretched tight with no wrinkles in it. Care should be
-taken to leave the covering of muscle over the abdomen on the carcass.
-Its presence on the hide is not entirely objectionable, but the
-carcass looks better and keeps better with it on. In “siding” a beef,
-it is customary to go down nearly to the backbone, leaving the skin
-attached at the thighs and at the shoulders. Skin over the buttock and
-as far down the rump as possible. Care should be taken at all times to
-avoid cutting into the flesh, or tearing the membranes covering it. If
-the meat is to be kept fresh for any length of time, mould will form
-in such cut places and will be hard to clean off. A coarse cloth and a
-pail of hot water should be handy while skinning, and all blood spots
-should be wiped from the surface. The cloth should be wrung nearly dry
-for this purpose, and the less water used the better.
-
-Open the carcass at the belly with a knife and pull the small
-intestines out to one side. Open the brisket and pelvis with a saw or
-sharp ax. Raise the windpipe and the gullet and cut loose the pleura
-and diaphragm along the lower part of the cavity. The carcass is now
-ready to raise. Make an opening with a knife between the large tendon
-and the bone just above the hocks. Insert the ends of a single tree in
-the openings thus made. Hook one end of a block and tackle in the ring
-in the center of the single tree and hoist until the hind quarters
-clear the ground several inches. A gambrel, similar to the one used in
-hanging up a hog carcass, though larger and stronger, may be used
-instead of a single tree.
-
-While the carcass is in this position, loosen the rectum and small
-intestines and allow them to drop down over the paunch. The fat lining
-the pelvis and the kidney fat should not be disturbed or mutilated.
-The intestines are attached to the liver, from which they may be
-separated with a knife. The paunch is attached to the back at the left
-side. It should be pressed down with sufficient force to tear it
-loose. Let it roll out on to the ground or floor, and cut off or draw
-out the gullet. Raise the carcass a little higher and take out the
-liver, first removing the gall bladder. Remove the diaphragm, lungs,
-and heart, and finish skinning over the shoulders, arms and neck. Wipe
-off all blood and dirt with a cloth. Split the carcass into halves
-with a saw, a cleaver, or a sharp ax. Wash out the inside of the chest
-cavity with warm water, and wipe it dry. Trim off all bloody veins or
-any scraggy pieces of the neck, and leave the beef to cool before
-cutting it into quarters.
-
-
-§ 29. Treatment of Hides
-
-The skins of cattle represent considerable value if properly treated.
-To save them in the north where cold weather prevails during the
-butchering season is not difficult, as they can be rolled up and kept
-frozen until disposed of. However, in the warm seasons, they should be
-spread out flat, hair side down, the legs, flanks, etc. stretched, and
-all parts rubbed thoroughly with salt. Particular pains should be
-taken to treat the entire surface of the skin. If more than one skin
-is to be salted, they should be salted one at a time and should be
-spread one on top of the other, with the hair sides together, and the
-skin sides together. Where only one hide is handled, the legs and head
-should be folded in and the hide rolled up. Enough salt should be used
-to cure the hide thoroughly if it is to be kept for any length of
-time. Ten to twelve pounds of salt will be sufficient for an ordinary
-hide.
-
-
-
-
- Killing and Dressing Sheep
-
-
-Much of the sheepy flavor of mutton comes from the generation of
-gases in the stomach after the sheep is killed. For this reason, the
-sheep should always be dressed as rapidly as possible. A platform
-about eighteen inches high is convenient to work on and aids in
-keeping the blood away from the body, insuring a cleaner carcass. A
-clean, dry place is necessary for neat work. Water or blood on the
-wool makes it very difficult to dress the animal nicely.
-
-
-§ 30. Stunning and Bleeding
-
-If the sheep is an old one, it may be stunned before bleeding. If a
-young one, the same purpose is served by dislocating the neck. This is
-accomplished by putting one hand on top of the head or poll and the
-other hand under the chin and giving a sharp twist upward. Then lay
-the sheep on its side on the platform, with its head hanging over one
-end. Grasp the chin in the left hand and stick a knife through the
-neck just back of the lower jaw. The cutting edge of the knife should
-be turned to the spinal column and the cut be made through the flesh
-to the bone. In this way it is possible to sever the blood vessels
-without cutting the windpipe.
-
-
-§ 31. Skinning
-
-Split the skin over the back of the front legs from the dew claws to a
-little above the knees. Open the skin over the windpipe from brisket
-to chin, starting it slightly on the sides of the neck. Split the skin
-over the back of the hind legs to midline, and skin the buttock. The
-skin should also be raised over the cod and flanks. Skin around the
-hocks and down to the hoofs, cutting off the hind feet at the toe
-joints. No attempt should be made to skin the legs above the hocks
-until after the carcass is hung up. Hang the sheep up by the hind legs
-and split the skin over the midline. Start at the brisket and “fist
-off” the skin. This is done by grasping the edge of the pelt firmly in
-one hand, pulling it up tight and working the other close between the
-pelt and the body. The “fisting off” should be downward over the fore
-quarter and upward and backward over the hind quarters and legs. It is
-unwise to pull down on the skin over the hind legs, as the membrane
-covering the flesh is sure to be ruptured and an unsightly appearance
-given to the carcass. The wool should always be held away from the
-flesh for the sake of cleanliness. The skin on the legs should be
-pulled away from the body, rather than toward it, in order to preserve
-the covering of the meat. When the pelt has been loosened over the
-sides and back, it should be stripped down over the neck and cut off
-close to the ears. The head may then be removed without being skinned
-by cutting through the atlas joint.
-
-
-§ 32. Gutting
-
-Begin removing the entrails by cutting around the rectum and allowing
-it to drop down the inside of the carcass. Do not split the pelvis.
-Open down the belly line from the cod to the breastbone, and take out
-the paunch and the intestines, leaving the liver attached to the
-diaphragm. The heart, lungs and diaphragm may either be removed or
-allowed to remain in the carcass. Reach up into the pelvis and pull
-out the bladder. Wipe all blood and dirt from the carcass with a
-coarse cloth wrung nearly dry from hot water. Double up the front legs
-and slip over the ankle joint the little cord which is found by
-cutting into the fleshy part of the forearm.
-
-
-
-
- Bleeding and Dressing Poultry
-
-
-§ 33. Bleeding and Picking
-
-When only a few chickens are to be dressed, the simplest way of
-bleeding is to chop off the head with an ax or cleaver. They should be
-scalded at once and picked. Scalding causes the muscles at the base of
-the feathers to relax, so the feathers come out easily. After picking,
-the skin can be made firm by plunging the bird in cold water. The crop
-and intestines should be removed as soon as the skin is cooled.
-
-If the bird is to be dry picked, it should be bled by cutting the
-blood vessels in the head and puncturing the brain. For this
-purpose, a scalpel or a small knife, is used. The instrument must be
-pointed and very sharp. The bird is grasped by the head with the
-left hand, and with the right hand the scalpel is thrust upward
-inside the mouth at the back of the throat. If done properly, the
-bird will bleed almost as fast as when the entire head is removed.
-The knife should be thrust clear through to the brain so the bird
-will be stunned. Stunning the bird in this way has the same effect
-as scalding, in that it causes the muscles at the base of the
-feathers to relax so that the feathers can be easily plucked out. If
-the bird is not stunned, the feathers will not pull out so readily.
-The bird should be hung up by the feet and picked immediately,
-before the body gets cold and the feathers set. A few at a time
-should be grasped between the thumb and first finger, and the pull
-should be upward and backward, in the direction which the feathers
-naturally lie.
-
-Turkeys, geese and ducks are usually bled and dry picked. Immediately
-after bleeding they should be suspended from a hook and picked, in the
-same way that a fowl is dry picked.
-
-Owing to the thickness of the feathers on ducks and geese, dry picking
-with them is usually a slower process than with other birds. After
-bleeding, a cloth should be wrapped around the head to catch the
-blood, so that the feathers will not become bloody. The goose or duck
-should then be laid on a board on the top of an open barrel or jar,
-and the feathers dropped into the vessel as they are picked. The
-coarse wing feathers should be kept separate from the softer feathers.
-When the feathers have been removed the short down may removed by
-singeing with a gasoline or alcohol flame. A hot flame should not be
-used, as it will give an oily appearance to the skin.
-
-When it is not desired to save the feathers, quicker work may be done
-by scalding the birds and wrapping them for a few minutes in a sack or
-blanket to steam. Since there is danger of their being steamed too
-much, they should be closely watched, and, as soon as the feathers
-come out readily, they are ready to be picked, singed, and then cooled
-by plunging into cold water. The sudden cooling hardens the skin.
-
-
-
-
- Keeping Meat Fresh
-
-
-In the sub-tropical climate of Canton, it is difficult to keep meat
-fresh for any length of time without the use of ice. With a room
-temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit and above, meat will keep fresh
-but a few hours. If placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of
-from 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it will keep fresh for a week to ten
-days. Dry air should circulate freely through the refrigerator.
-Moisture in the refrigerator tends to develop mould, which is apt to
-cause decomposition of the meat. A little decay will soon contaminate
-a large amount of meat.
-
-In the north, meat may be kept fresh during the cold season by
-freezing it solid. The carcass may be cut into quarters or smaller
-pieces and hung in an open outbuilding where it will freeze solid, and
-remain frozen until the weather begins to warm up in the spring.
-Whenever a piece is wanted it can be removed with a saw. Rapid thawing
-of frozen meat greatly injures its flavor. If the meat is thawed out
-slowly in a cold room, the flavor of the meat will not be injured.
-Meat can be kept frozen for months if kept in cold room, or in a
-refrigerator with a temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and with
-proper ventilation provided.
-
-
-
-
- Curing Meats: American Methods
-
-
-§ 34. Preparing the Meat for Curing
-
-Meat should be thoroughly cooled before it is cured, or it will spoil.
-The proper time to begin curing is when the meat is cooled and still
-fresh. Twenty to thirty hours after killing is the proper time to
-begin the cure. If salted before the animal heat has left it, the
-shrinkage of muscles causes a retention of gases, and gives an
-offensive odor to the meat. The meat should not be frozen, as the cure
-will not penetrate such meat evenly, and an uneven curing will result.
-Tainted meat may be cured so that it will keep, but no system of
-curing will bring back the natural flavor of the meat, if it is once
-lost.
-
-
-§ 35. Vessels for Curing
-
-Vitrified clay jars, with straight sides, similar to the jars used for
-fermenting beans in making soy bean sauce, are the best vessels for
-containing the meat. These jars, large enough to hold conveniently the
-hams, shoulders, and sides of two hogs, are best for curing meat for
-the first time, and the meat can be watched and cared for better in
-small jars than in large jars containing more meat. In America, where
-such jars are expensive, it is the custom to use a clean, hardwood
-barrel for the purpose. One that has been used for syrup or molasses
-is best. If a kerosene or tar barrel is used, it should be first
-thoroughly burned out, and used as a water barrel for some time before
-it is used for meat. Vitrified clay jars are preferred to wooden
-barrels as they are cleaned more readily. If meat has once spoiled in
-a wooden barrel, the vessel should not be used again for containing
-meat. Vessels that are used repeatedly for curing meat should be
-scalded thoroughly each time before packing with fresh meat.
-
-
-§ 36. Curing Agents
-
-Salt, saltpeter, sugar or molasses, and a variety of spices are the
-principal preservatives used in curing meat. Borax, formalin,
-salicylic acid, and other chemicals are sometimes used. However, as
-they are considered by many authorities to be injurious to the health,
-their use should be avoided. Baking soda is used in wet pickles to
-check the growth of mould.
-
-When salt alone is applied to meat, it draws out the meat juices and
-contracts the muscle fibers, making the meat very hard and dry. The
-action of the sugar or the molasses is to soften the muscle fibers and
-improve the texture and flavor of the meat, hence the combination of
-sugar and salt make a good cure. Saltpeter is used to preserve the
-natural red color of the meat. It should be used in small quantities
-only, as it is very astringent, and, if used in large quantities is
-apt to be injurious to the health.
-
-
-
-
- Wet and Dry Cures Compared
-
-
-A wet cure is more convenient than a dry cure. It is less trouble to
-pack the meat in a jar or barrel and pour on the prepared wet pickle
-than it is to go over the meat three or four times and rub in the
-spices. The brine method also gives protection from insects. However,
-in warm weather, the brine has to be watched very closely, and, if
-mould forms on the surface of the pickle, it should be removed every
-day or two. The brine also needs to be recooked every week or ten days
-in warm weather to prevent undesirable bacteria from growing in it. A
-cool, dry room is the best for either brine or dry curing. In a dry
-atmosphere below 60 degrees Fahrenheit there is very little danger of
-the meat becoming sour, although a temperature below 40 degrees is
-better.
-
-
-
-
- Recipes for Curing Meat
-
-
-§ 37. Corned Beef
-
-Any piece of beef can be used for corning, but the cheaper cuts are
-the parts generally used for this purpose. The plate, rump, and parts
-of the chuck are generally used, although the ribs, loin, and round
-may also be used. The pieces for corning should be cut into pieces of
-convenient size, say four or five inches square. If they are cut much
-larger, they well not cure very well as the pickle will not work in
-soon enough. They should be cut as nearly the same size as is possible
-so they will pack in even layers in the barrel or jar.
-
-When as the meat is thoroughly cooled, it should be corned as quickly
-as possible. Weigh the meat and allow 10 pounds of salt for each 100
-pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of salt a half inch deep over the
-bottom of the jar in which the meat is to be placed. Rub each piece of
-meat with good, clean salt. Pack each layer of meat closely in the
-bottom of the jar, and sprinkle a layer of salt one-fourth to one-half
-inch deep on each layer of meat before the following layer of meat is
-placed in the jar, and cover the top layer of meat with a good layer
-of salt. After it has stood over night, cover with a brine made as
-follows: for each one hundred pounds of meat, use four pounds of
-sugar, six ounces baking soda, and eight ounces of saltpeter. Dissolve
-in a gallon of water that has been boiled and cooled until it is
-tepid. Three gallons more of boiled, tepid water should then be added.
-Meat from fat animals makes choicer corned beef than that from poor
-animals. Under no circumstances should meat be corned while it is
-frozen.
-
-In case of more or less than one hundred pounds of meat to be corned,
-make the brine in the proportion given. The meat should be weighted
-down with a board and stone so that all the meat is well beneath the
-surface of the brine. In case any of the meat projects above the
-surface, decay will commence in a short time.
-
-It is best to cook the brine, or the water used in making the
-brine solution. If the weather is warm, the brine is apt to get sour
-and ropy. In that case, wash each piece of meat in cold water,
-scald the vessel and repack in a new brine. If the brine is reboiled
-every few days before it gets ropy, it is not necessary to make new
-brine so frequently. To test the brine for freshness, dip the fingers
-into it, and if it does not drip freely from the fingers, but appears
-stringy or ropy, it should be turned off, the meat washed, and new
-brine added. In the spring of the year, the brine should be watched
-closely, as it is more likely to spoil at that time than during the cold
-winter months. If kept in a cool place, with a uniform temperature
-of below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and above freezing, there should be
-little trouble from this source. To secure thorough corning, the
-meat should be kept in the brine for twenty-eight to forty days, the
-exact length of time depending on the size of the pieces of meat and
-on the weather.
-
-
-§ 38. Dried Beef
-
-The round and shoulders are the parts most commonly used for dried
-beef. The pieces should be cut with the grain, so that the muscle
-fibers will be cut crosswise when the dried beef is sliced for table
-use. It should be cut in about the same sizes as for corned beef, and
-packed in vessels in the same manner. The pickle should be made as
-follows: for each one hundred pounds of meat, weigh out six pounds
-table salt, three pounds of granulated sugar, and two ounces of
-saltpeter. Mix these pieces thoroughly. Before the meat is placed in
-the jar, each piece should be well rubbed with the spice mixture.
-Dissolve the remainder of the spices in four gallons of boiled water
-that has been allowed to cool. Pour this pickle solution over the meat
-in the jar until it is completely covered. Weight the meat down, as in
-the case with corned beef. The pickle solution should be watched and,
-in the case of tendency to become ropy, should be handled as in
-corning beef.
-
-After ten days, the meat should be removed from the pickle and hung up
-in an airy out-house to drip and dry. When dry, which should be in
-about 24 hours, it can be smoked, as in the case of smoking ham. The
-drier the climate, the more easily can the meat be dried and smoked.
-It is difficult to dry and smoke meat in the Canton region unless done
-in December and January, before the rains begin.
-
-
-§ 39. Plain Salt Pork
-
-Rub each piece of meat with fine common salt and pack closely in a
-barrel. Let stand over night. The next day, weigh out twelve pounds of
-salt and three ounces of saltpeter to each one hundred pounds of meat,
-and dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. When cold, pour this
-pickle over the meat, cover and weight down to keep the meat under the
-brine. The meat will pack best if cut into pieces about six inches
-square.
-
-
-§ 40. Dry Cured Pork
-
-For each one hundred pounds of meat, weigh cut eight pounds of salt,
-two pounds of granulated sugar, and two ounces of saltpeter. Mix
-thoroughly, and rub the meat once every three days, using a third of
-the mixture at each rubbing. Keep the meat on a shelf, or in a vessel,
-while curing. After the last rubbing, allow the meat to remain in a
-vessel for about ten days, when it is cured and ready to smoke. To
-cure nicely, it is desirable to have a cool and rather moist place in
-which to keep it.
-
-This recipe should not be used where the meat must be kept in a warm
-dry place, as the preservatives will not penetrate easily and
-uniformly under such conditions.
-
-
-§ 41. Sugar Cured Pork
-
-Rub each piece with salt and allow to remain over night. A wet pickle,
-or brine, may also be forced into the hams and shoulders close to the
-bone with a special pump, using from 5 to 10 ounces of the pickle or
-brine for each piece, the amount depending on the size of the piece.
-The following morning pack in a vessel with the hams and shoulders at
-the bottom and the bacon on the top. For each one hundred pounds of
-meat, weigh out eight pounds of salt, two pounds of brown sugar, two
-ounces of saltpeter, and one-half pound baking soda. Dissolve all in
-four gallons of water, and cover the meat with this wet pickle. In
-warm weather, the pickle should be boiled and thoroughly cooled before
-using. A board and stone should be used to weight down the meat. Bacon
-strips should remain in the pickle from three to four weeks, and the
-hams and shoulders five to seven weeks, depending on their size. If
-desired, the meat may then be smoked. Before being smoked meat should
-be soaked for several hours in clean water at about 80 degrees
-Fahrenheit to remove the excess salt on the surface of the meat and
-thus make the meat more palatable. In soaking the meat about one-half
-pint of water should be used for each pound of meat.[1] The Canton
-Christian College has had very good success with this cure.
-
-
-§ 42. Pork Sausage
-
-Pork sausage should be made from clean, fresh pork only. The parts
-generally used are the shoulder, neck, and lean meat trimmings. About
-three pounds of lean meat should be used to one pound of fat meat. Mix
-the fat and lean meat together in chopping. With some cutters it is
-necessary to run the meat through twice in order to make it fine
-enough and to mix thoroughly the lean with the fat meat. After it has
-been cut the first time, spread thinly and season. For each 100 pounds
-of meat, use one and one-half pounds of pure, fine salt, four ounces
-of ground black pepper, and two pounds of pure leaf sage, rubbed fine.
-The seasoning should be sprinkled over the meat, and the meat again
-run through the cutter, in order to mix the spice thoroughly with the
-meat. For immediate use, the sausage may be packed away in jars. It
-may be kept for some time in a jar if melted lard is poured over the
-top, so as to exclude the air. The sausage may also be stuffed into
-muslin bags about two inches in diameter. If the stuffed bags are
-coated with paraffin, they will keep for some time.
-
-
-§ 43. Mixed Meat Sausage
-
-Mixed sausage may be made from a mixture of pork and beef in almost
-any proportion. Sausage should not contain too much fat. A good
-proportion is two pounds of lean pork, one pound of fat pork, and one
-pound of lean beef.
-
-
-§ 44. Bologna Sausage
-
-To each ten pounds of lean beef, use one pound of fat pork or bacon.
-Chop finely and season with three ounces of salt, two ounces pepper,
-and a little ground coriander. Stuff casing, and tie every ten or
-twelve inches. Hang the stuffed casings straight. Smoke for ten or
-twelve hours. Cook in boiling water until the sausage floats. Dry on
-clean hay or straw in the sun and hang away in a cool place until
-wanted.
-
-
-§ 45. Blood Sausage
-
-Blood sausage is made with the following ingredients: 25 pounds of
-cured pork or shoulder fat, seven pounds cured fat skins, six pounds
-of blood, one-half pound onions, one pound salt, one-half ounce white
-pepper, one ounce sweet marjoram, and one-half ounce cloves.
-
-Cook the fat for one hour and the skins two hours at a temperature of
-200° Fahrenheit. When cooked, put through a grinder, grinding quite
-fine. Then add the blood and seasoning and mix thoroughly. Stuff into
-large beef casings and boil in the same water in which meat was cooked
-until the sausage floats. Then dip the sausage in cold water and hang
-up to cool.
-
-
-§ 46. Smoked or Country Sausage
-
-The following ingredients are used in making smoked or country
-sausage: 85 pounds lean pork, 15 pounds beef, one and one-half to two
-pounds salt, four ounces black pepper, and one ounce sweet marjoram.
-
-Cut the meat into small pieces and sprinkle seasoning over it. Then
-grind finely. Put away in a cool place for twenty-four to thirty-six
-hours, then add a little water, and stuff into hog casings and smoke
-in a very cool smoke until a dark mahogany is obtained.
-
-
-§ 47. Frankfort or Vienna Sausage
-
-This popular sausage is made with the following ingredients: 70 pounds
-beef, 30 pounds fat pork, 20 pounds water, one and one-half to two
-pounds salt, two ounces red pepper.
-
-Cut the beef into small pieces, salt, and allow it to cure for
-forty-eight hours in a cool room. Cut the pork into small pieces and
-put the beef and pork through a grinder together. Put into a vessel
-and add the water and spices. After it is all mixed, put it through a
-grinder again and grind fine. Stuff into sheep casings. Then, by means
-of the forefinger and thumb, press the stuffed casing together about
-four inches from one end, and give this first link two or three
-twists. Do the same about every four inches, twisting each succeeding
-link in the opposite direction from the preceding link, in order to
-prevent untwisting. Then hang in a smoke house for about two hours at
-a temperature not to exceed 125° Fahrenheit. After smoking, boil for
-five or ten minutes, then plunge into cold water and hang in a cool
-place.
-
-
-§ 48. Liver Sausage
-
-Odds and ends, resulting from trimming up the various cuts
-of the hog carcass, as well as the liver itself, can be used in making
-liver sausage. If the head is used, it should first be cleaned, as for
-headcheese. The jowl, which is practically all fat, may be cut off
-and made into salt pork, or used for rendering lard. The remainder
-of the head meat, trimmings, liver cut into slices, and some beef or
-veal, if such meat can be had, should be boiled. Skin that is free
-from hair, and from which the fat has been removed, is also sometimes
-used. The skin will cook before the meat, so it should be
-put in a cloth sack and removed when thoroughly cooked. Liver
-cooks in a very short time, and should be removed before the rest of
-the meat. The meat should cook until it readily falls from the
-bones. All the meat should then be ground in a meat grinder. For
-40 pounds of meat, use one and one-half pounds salt, three ounces
-sweet marjoram, one ounce allspice, one ounce black pepper, and
-about one gallon broth in which the meat was cooked. Garlic or
-onions can be added, if desired. The seasoning should be well worked
-into the meat. It can then be put into jars, covered with paraffin,
-or stuffed into beef casings or rounds. When stuffed into casings
-or rounds, it should be cooked in the same water the meat was
-cooked in until it floats. Then it should be placed in cold water
-until the sausage is thoroughly cooled.
-
-
-§ 49. Summer Sausage
-
-Summer sausage is made with the following ingredients: 25 pounds cured
-beef free from sinews, 15 pounds pork trimmings, four to six ounces
-white pepper, one ounce whole black pepper, and one ounce whole
-mustard seed.
-
-This sausage can be made in cold weather only. All the meat is put
-through the grinder, and spices added. No salt is needed as the cured
-beef is salty enough. Mix it all thoroughly until it is evenly
-seasoned. Spread it out in a cool place for thirty-six to forty hours.
-Then stuff into hog casings and let it hang over night. Smoke with
-cold smoke for several days. If kept in a dry place, it can be kept
-the year round. It if gets moldy, simply wipe off the mold before using.
-
-
-§ 50. Headcheese
-
-The head of the hog, and trimmings, are used for making headcheese.
-The head should be shaved clean and nostrils cut off just in front of
-the eyes. Cut out the eyes and ear drums. The fattest part of the head
-is generally used for lard. Clean the head by soaking it in water for
-some time to extract all blood and dirt. After the head is thoroughly
-cleaned, cover with water and boil until the meat separates from the
-bones. Lungs and heart may be cooked with the head. When it is
-thoroughly cooked, take out the meat, saving the liquor for future
-use. Chop the meat finely. Season with one and one-half pounds salt,
-three ounces black pepper, four ounces allspice, and four ounces
-ground cloves, together with two gallons of the liquor for every 50
-pounds of meat. The mixing should be done thoroughly, so that proper
-seasoning is secured. Stuff the meat into large beef casings
-thoroughly cleaned, hog stomach, or muslin bags about three or four
-inches in diameter. After stuffing into casings, it should be boiled
-until it floats on the top, then place in cold water for a short time.
-Store away in a clean, cool place on a shelf or table. If there are no
-casings or muslin available in which to stuff the meat, it can be kept
-in shallow pans.
-
-
-§ 51. Scrapple
-
-The head and feet of hogs are generally used in making scrapple, but
-scrapple can be made from any hog meat. The heads should be split
-through the middle and placed in a kettle with sufficient water to
-cover them. They should be cooked until the meat falls from the bones.
-Drain off the broth. Separate the bones from the meat, then chop the
-meat fine and add it to the broth, and boil. Corn meal should be added
-until it is as thick as mush. Add the corn meal slowly and stir
-vigorously, so as to avoid lumpiness. Stir the mixture well for ten or
-fifteen minutes, and allow it to boil one hour. Pour the scrapple into
-shallow pans or molds. When cold, it should be sliced and fried.
-
-
-§ 52. Snow Packing
-
-Snow packing is a method that can be used only in localities where
-snow and continued dry cold weather prevails during the winter months.
-The carcass should be cut into steaks, roasts, and boiling pieces. All
-trimmings for the table should be made before freezing the meat. Lay
-the pieces out to freeze. Be sure they freeze solid to the center. In
-the bottom of a box large enough to hold all the meat, pack a layer of
-snow. Put in a larger of the frozen meat, packing in such a way that
-the pieces do not touch each other. Cover with a layer of snow, and
-continue with alternate layers of meat and snow. Set the box in a room
-where it will not be subject to changes in temperature. For
-convenience, it is well to pack the steaks in one section or end of
-the box, and the roasts and stews in another. The meat will then be
-but little disturbed when a supply is taken from the box. Only snow
-should be used in packing. Be sure the meat is frozen solid before
-packing, and it will keep through the winter, unless the weather gets
-very warm. In preparing the meat for the table, it should not be
-thawed out too rapidly.
-
-
-§ 53. Partial Cooking
-
-Partial cooking and packing in jars is a method of preserving meat
-which is sometimes used on the farm. It has the advantage over snow
-packing in that it can be done in warm weather and is a most
-satisfactory way of keeping fresh pork. However, it requires
-considerably more work than other methods of preserving meat.
-
-The loin and side meat, or any part of the carcass, may be used. Cut
-into slices about one-half inch thick, and fry until a little more
-than half done. Pack the slices in a jar and cover with hot lard. As
-the meat is wanted, it can be removed from the jar and warmed up. If
-the jar is to stand any length of time without using, after it has
-been opened, it is best again to cover the top with lard. It is better
-to use several small jars than one large one. They should be kept in a
-cool, dark room to insure safe-keeping of the meat.
-
-
-§ 54. Rendering Lard
-
-The leaf lard, fat back, and fat trimmings from the hams, shoulders
-and neck make good lard. Intestinal fat should never be mixed with the
-other fat parts, as it makes a strong smelling lard of an inferior
-grade, but should be rendered by itself. By thorough washing and
-soaking in cold water for several hours, part of the offensive odor
-will leave it.
-
-First of all, remove the skin from the fat trimmings. To do this,
-place the meat on a table, skin side down, and cut the fat from the
-skin, using a strong knife. When a piece of skin large enough to grasp
-is freed from the fat, take it in the left hand, and, with the right
-hand, insert the knife between the skin and fat. Pull the skin and cut
-with the knife slightly slanted downward. With a little practice, the
-fat can be cleanly removed from the skin in this way with one clean
-cut of the knife. The strips of fat should then be cut into cubes of
-one to one and one-half inches, making them about equal in size so
-they will try out evenly.
-
-Pour into the kettle about a quart of water or melted lard, and then
-fill it nearly full with the cubes of fat meat. The fat will then heat
-properly and the lard will be brought out without burning. Keep a
-moderate fire until the cracklings are brown and light enough to
-float. Frequent stirring is necessary to prevent burning. When done,
-remove from the fire and allow to cool slightly. Then strain through a
-muslin cloth into a jar. Stir it occasionally, until it is cool enough
-to begin to solidify. Stirring while it is cooling tends to whiten the
-lard and make it smoother. A quarter of a pound of saleratus added to
-each one hundred pounds of fat has a like effect.
-
-When removing lard from a container for use, take it evenly from the
-surface. Do not dig down into the center of the lard, for when this is
-done, it will leave a coating of lard around the sides of the
-container which will become rancid very quickly by the action of
-bacteria in the air.
-
-
-§ 55. Smoked Meats
-
-The process of smoking helps to preserve meat, and, if smoked
-properly, and with the right kind of fuel, adds a desirable flavor to
-meat. The creosote formed by the combustion of the wood closes the
-pores to some extent, and excludes the air. This also helps to keep
-out the insects.
-
-
-§ 56. The Smokehouse
-
-The size of smokehouse to build depends on the amount of meat that is
-to be smoked. In a house eight feet square and ten feet high, the
-hams, sides, and shoulders of three to five hogs can be smoked at one
-time. Ventilation should be provided to carry off the warm air in
-order to prevent overheating the meat. A chimney, made by placing a
-six inch tile in the roof, makes a good ventilator. The smoke house
-walls may be built of lumber, brick, or concrete. Lumber would be the
-cheapest, but least permanent, and concrete the most costly. Brick is
-no doubt the most satisfactory material for a small smoke house in
-southern China. Mud bricks may be used, but burnt clay bricks are more
-lasting. The roof should be made of tile. The best material for the
-floor is large square tiles, called in Chinese _taai ch’uen_ (大磚).
-Concrete or brick may also be used, but would be more expensive then
-_taai ch’uen_.
-
-A good arrangement is to have the fire box outside the smoke house,
-with a flue to carry the smoke into the smoke house. When this cannot
-well be arranged, a fire may be built on the floor of the house, and
-the meat shielded from heavy smoke by a sheet of tin, about four feet
-square, placed over the fire between the fire and the meat, about
-three feet above the floor.
-
-
-§ 57. The Fuel
-
-Lychee, or any other hard wood, makes good fuel for smoking meat.
-Resinous woods, such as pines and cedars, should never be used as they
-give an objectionable flavor to the meat due to turpentine which they
-contain.
-
-
-§ 58. Preparing Meat for Smoking
-
-Meat that is to be smoked should be removed from the brine and
-thoroughly washed in tepid water in order to clean off the coat of
-pickle that has formed on the surface of the meat. It can then he hung
-up in the smokehouse, but should be allowed to drain for a day or two
-before the fire is started. The pieces of meat should be hung so that
-the air can pass freely between them.
-
-
-§ 59. The Fire
-
-For the first day or two, the fire should be slow, in order that the
-warming of the meat may be gradual. In clear, dry weather, smoking may
-continue from the day the smoking begins until it is completed, which
-should be in one to three weeks, the length of time depending on the
-size of the pieces of meat and on the weather. When sufficiently
-smoked, the meat will have a characteristic straw color. Meat should
-never be smoked on a damp day, because in a damp atmosphere moisture
-will condense on the meat, and moist meat will not smoke well. Light
-smoking for two weeks is better than heavy smoking for one week. With
-a longer period of smoking the smoke will enter the meat more
-thoroughly.
-
-
-§ 60. Keeping Smoked Meats
-
-During cool weather smoked meats may be left in the smokehouse for
-some time after the smoking process is completed. The house should be
-kept dark in order to keep out flies, and it should be well ventilated
-so as to prevent dampness. A dry, cool cellar, with free circulation
-of fresh air, will be a satisfactory place for keeping smoked meats.
-
-If the smoked meat is to be kept only a short time, it needs only to
-be hung up without covering. For longer keeping, it is well to wrap
-first in paper, and then in burlap, canvass or muslin, and bury the
-meat in a grain bin or box of sand. The object of this is to provide a
-condition which will be uniform in temperature and keep out insects.
-
-A coat of ground pepper, rubbed into the meat before wrapping, will be
-distasteful to insects.
-
-After smoked meat has become thoroughly dry, it may be wrapped in
-parchment paper and enclosed in a heavy muslin or canvass, which
-should be covered with yellow wash or ordinary lime white wash with
-glue added.
-
-
-§ 61. Recipe for Yellow Wash
-
-For one hundred pounds hams or bacon, take: three pounds barytes
-(barium sulphate), .06 pound glue, .80 pound chrome yellow (lead
-chromate), .40 pound flour, and twelve pounds water.
-
-Put the flour in the water, dissolving all lumps thoroughly. Dissolve
-the chrome in a quart of water in a separate vessel, and add the
-solution and the glue to the flour and water. Bring the whole to a
-boil, and add the barytes slowly, stirring constantly. Make the wash
-the day before it is required. Stir it frequently when using, and
-apply with a brush.
-
-
-
-
- Chinese Meat Recipes
-
-
-§ 62. Bean Sauce Sausage (_Laap Ch’eung_ 腊腸).
-
-Sausage is a very popular meat with the Chinese, especially during the
-winter season. It is probably the most widely used of all cured meats,
-although as a rule it is quite expensive compared with other meats.
-
-
-§ 63. Pickle for Bean Sauce Sausage
-
-For every catty of meat, use:
-
- Saltpeter (_siu_ 硝) 1 mace[2] (_ts’in_ 一錢)
- Salt (_shuk im_ 熟鹽) 3 mace (_ts’in_ 三錢)
- Sugar (_ping fa t’ong_ 冰花糖) 2 mace (_ts’in_ 二錢)
- First-drawn bean sauce (_t’au ch’au yau_ 頭抽油) 2 mace
- Raw bean sauce (_shang ch’au yau_ 生抽油) 1 mace
- Mixture of spices (_ng heung fan_ 五香粉) 1 mace
-
-The mixture of spices is made up of the following:
-
- Red pepper (_ch’un tsiu_ 春椒) 10 mace
- Ground anise seed (_taai wui_ 大回) 10 mace
- Cloves (_ting heung_ 丁香) 10 mace
- Cinnamon (_yuk kwai_ 玉桂) 10 mace
-
-These spices should be purchased separately and never ready mixed, as
-ready made mixtures are often worthless.
-
-Sometimes two orange peelings, finely cut or ground, fresh or dried
-are used for every ten catties of meat. Two mace of double distilled
-wine (_sheung ching tsau_ 雙蒸酒), or treble distilled wine (_saam ching
-tsau_ 三蒸酒), and a wine called (_fan tsau_ 汾酒), are sometimes added
-for each catty of meat. The wine helps preserve the meat.
-
-The above spices should be carefully mixed and the mixture thoroughly
-stirred into the meat. In mixing the spices the usual method is to use
-the hands as mixers. A better way is to use a large spoon, or some
-similar utensil.
-
-
-§ 64. Preparation of the Meat for Sausage
-
-Use hams, shoulders, chops, fat back, and neck. Sometimes the liver is
-added to give a dark color. No belly meat or tough parts should be
-used. Separate the lean from the fat meat. Chop into pieces about
-one-quarter inch in diameter, or run through a sausage mill. One part
-fat and one part lean meat is generally used, though the proportion
-may vary either way, to suit the taste and demand.
-
-
-§ 65. Sausage Casing (_Ch’eung I_ 腸衣)
-
-Sausage casing is generally made from the middle coat of the small
-intestines of sheep although it is also made from the intestines of
-the hog. The casing is very thin and transparent. Some casing is
-prepared in Canton, but most of what is used in Canton comes from
-Shanghai, as there are comparatively few sheep or goats slaughtered in
-Canton. The dried casing sells for $3.00 to $6.00 a catty.
-
-
-§ 66. Softening the Casing
-
-When ready to be used, the casing should be immersed in luke warm
-water for a few minutes to soften it. If the walls of the casing
-adhere to each other so that it is difficult for the meat to enter,
-water should be forced through to distend the casing.
-
-
-§ 67. Filling the Casing
-
-Insert the small end of the filler (a tin funnel about six inches
-long) into the end of the casing. Hold the casing tightly to the
-filler with the left hand, and with the right hand force the meat
-through the filler into the casing. It is customary to use the hand
-for this, but a large wooden spoon would work just as well.
-
-A sausage stuffing machine can be purchased for a few dollars, and
-will do the work of stuffing in a much more satisfactory manner than
-it can be done by hand. The end of the casing is tied around a tube at
-the bottom of a jar containing the sausage meat. A disc the size and
-shape of the inside of the jar is then pressed down on the meat with a
-lever, and the meat is thus forced into the casing. Such a machine
-will do the work of five or six men, and if of the right type, can
-also be used as a lard press. If it is difficult to force the meat
-into the casing, on account of compressed air, the air should be
-allowed to escape by punching small holes in the casing with pins. The
-stuffed casing is usually tied with a string every six inches, cut
-into convenient lengths, and hung up to dry.
-
-
-§ 68. Sunning and Drying
-
-The sausage should be prepared in the morning, so that it can be hung
-up to sun by noon. If it is prepared in the afternoon, there is some
-danger of its spoiling, especially if the day is not very cold,
-because it has to be stored over night before it gets much sun.
-Sunshine and cold north wind are needed to make the best sausage. With
-five days of wind and sun, the meat becomes hard and firm. In case of
-rainy or damp weather while the sausage is being dried, it must be
-hung up in a small room and a small charcoal or wood fire kept burning
-underneath. If the sausage is not well sunned or dried, it is very
-likely to spoil, and an effort should be made to get it pretty well
-dried within five days.
-
-
-§ 69. Season and Weather for Making Sausage
-
-The time for making sausage is when there is a dry, cold wind blowing
-from the north. Such weather usually does not occur before the middle
-of November. From this time to the middle of January is usually the
-best season. If made earlier, the weather will not be cool enough. If
-made later, the chances for sunny weather are lessened, and the meat
-is not apt to cure so well.
-
-
-§ 70. Lean Pork Sausage (_Shau Yuk Ch’eung_ 瘦肉腸)
-
-This sausage is made the same as ordinary sausage, except that only
-lean meat is used.
-
-
-§ 71. Liver Sausage (_Yun Ch’eung_ 潤腸)
-
-In this sausage, duck liver is used instead of lean meat. Otherwise,
-it is made the same as ordinary sausage.
-
-
-§ 72. _Tung Koon_ Sausage (_Tung Koon Laap Ch’eung_ 東莞腊腸)
-
-This is the same as ordinary bean sauce sausage, except that large
-casings are used. It is not very popular because of its size.
-
-
-§ 73. Oyster Sauce Sausage (_Ho Yau Ch’eung_ 蠔油腸)
-
-This is made in the same manner as ordinary sausage, except that
-oyster sauce (_ho yau_ 蠔油) is used instead of bean sauce in making up
-the pickle.
-
-
-§ 74. Catsup Sausage
-
-Catsup sausage is the same as ordinary sausage, except that for every
-catty of meat, three taels of catsup instead of bean sauce are used.
-
-
-§ 75. Roast or Baked Sausage (_Foh Ch’eung_ 火腸)
-
-Prepare ordinary sausage, but use large casings. Dip in honey
-solution, and bake or roast.
-
-
-§ 76. Cured Ham
-
-An excellent cured ham is produced in Yunnan Province. This is due to
-the fact that the hogs in that region are largely of the bacon type,
-and the climate is very favorable for curing meat, being dry and
-fairly cool during the meat curing season.
-
-In curing ham, the Chinese use much the same method as is used in
-western countries in making dry cured ham, except that sugar is not
-used in the pickle. The pickle is made up as follows: Salt (_shuk im_
-熟鹽) 20 catties (_kan_ 卄斤), Saltpeter (_siu_ 硝) .05 tael (半錢),
-mixture of spices (_ng heung fan_ 五香粉) 2 taels (_leung_ 二両).
-
-Rub each piece of meat for one-half hour. Puncture the meat with
-needles so the pickle will work in well. Rub again in two days. For
-the two days after the first rubbing with the pickle, keep under
-pressure to squeeze out the water. After the second two days, rub
-again with the pickle. Rub again after two more days. Then the meat is
-packed in salt for fifteen days, when it is taken out and the salt
-wiped off and the meat is allowed to dry and harden. Curing should
-require forty days. The flavor improves with age.
-
-
-§ 77. Sun Dried Pork (_Shau Laap Yuk_ 瘦𦡳肉)
-
-Sun drying is a common method of curing pork in the Canton
-region. For this purpose, head, side, ham, and shoulder meat is
-used. The meat is cut in strips, about eight to ten inches long, and
-about one inch thick. It is immersed over night in a pickle which
-is the same as the one used in making sausage, and the next day
-rubbed with a mixture of honey and water (_mat t’ong shui_ 蜜糖水),
-made up of one part honey and one part water, and hung up to dry
-in the sun for two days. Again it is soaked in the pickle for a short
-time, and dried in the sun for two days. This is done a third time.
-Then it is put in a stone jar in a cool, dry place for two days, and
-again hung up to dry for one week, when it is cured. When cured,
-the fat meat is rather firm.
-
-Pork can be sun dried in the Canton region between the first of
-November and the middle of January. Dry, north wind is best for
-curing. If cured later than January, it must be consumed immediately
-as it will not keep long.
-
-
-§ 78. Pickled Pig Feet (_Ch’aat T’ai_ 札蹄)
-
-In making pickled pig feet, the bone is first removed from the leg,
-leaving only the meat, skin and toes. Boil, and stuff with roast fat
-and lean meat to take the place of the bone. Tie up with rice straw,
-and immerse in the sausage spice for several hours.
-
-
-§ 79. Pickled Beef
-
-Cut the beef into pieces weighing about four or five taels. Rub each
-piece thoroughly with salt. Place the meat in a jar and cover with
-salt. In one or two weeks, the meat is cured and ready to use. Soak in
-water for one-half hour before using in order to remove part of the
-salt.
-
-
-§ 80. Dried Rice Bird (_Laap Woh Fa Tseuk_ 腊禾花雀)
-
-Remove the feathers, internal organs, and brain. Then treat same as in
-making sun dried pork.
-
-
-§ 81. Pork Stuffed Liver (_Kam Ngan Yun_ 金銀潤)
-
-Use the liver of hogs. Cut into strips about one inch wide. Use wine
-and ginger for flavoring. Half dry it in the wind. It should not be
-overdried, as it will then be hard to digest. Prepare fat meat by
-cutting strips of it into such sizes that they can be inserted into
-the liver. Soak the fat meat in a solution of salt, saltpeter, and
-sugar, in proportions of 3-2-1. Finally, half dry the fat by hanging
-in the sun for several hours. With a wooden stick, make pockets in the
-strips of liver from one end to the other, and insert the strips of
-fat meat into the pockets. The strips of stuffed liver should then be
-hung up to dry for a half day.
-
-
-§ 82. Lo Mei (_Lo Mei_ 鹵味)
-
-The tongue, bladder, intestine, and liver, are used in making _lo mei_
-although any part of the carcass may be used. It is made by cooking
-the meat for ten minutes and then plunging it while still hot into
-cold water, cooking for ten minutes again, and then plunging into cold
-water. The process should be repeated at least twelve times. The
-expansion and contraction of the meat by such handling makes it very
-tender, and firm. The process of preparing this meat is called
-“crossing the river.”
-
-The boiled meat should be put into a strong solution of spices
-prepared before hand, which is the same as the mixture of spices used
-for making the pickle for sausages. After remaining in the solution of
-spices over night, the meat is ready to be eaten.
-
-
-§ 83. Roast Meat (_Shiu Yuk_ 燒肉)
-
-Poultry, or pigs weighing up to one hundred catties, frequently are
-roasted. Two methods are used. Poultry and small pigs may be roasted
-in pans in an ordinary oven. The other method, which is the one
-commonly used, is to roast in a special oven. The latter method
-requires more skill than roasting in the ordinary oven. The oven is in
-the form of a cylinder stood on end, thirty to forty inches in
-diameter, and five or six feet high. The poultry or pig is hung on
-iron bars across the top of the stove, and the stove or oven is then
-covered with an iron lid. Fire is built at the bottom of the cylinder
-through an opening at one side. Dry hard wood or charcoal, which
-give but little smoke, are generally used for fuel. The meat being
-roasted needs constant attention and shifting so that it will roast
-through uniformly. It is said that when the meat gives off a white
-smoke, it is an indication that it is done. A solution made up of one
-part honey and one part water is rubbed on the meat, both inside and
-outside the carcass, before the roasting. This honey solution gives
-the outside of the meat a desirable rich reddish brown color when
-roasted.
-
-
-§ 84. Dried Duck (_Laap Aap_ 腊鴨)
-
-For one dressed bird, use five taels of salt, which should be well
-rubbed into the meat. Then pack in salt for one day. Take up, wash off
-the salt, and put between two bamboo mats. Apply pressure for a few
-days, and hang up to dry.
-
-The Canton climate is not very favorable for drying duck, as during
-the meat curing season it frequently rains. If the meat does not dry
-fairly rapidly, it is likely to spoil. In Naam On, Kwong Sai province,
-where it is generally dry during the curing season, the ducks are
-packed away after two days exposure to the sun. In Canton, it often
-takes two weeks. Ducks’ heads, kidneys, feet and other parts of the
-bird are also cured in the same way.
-
-
-§ 85. Puffed Pig Skin (_Chue P’ei_ 豬皮)
-
-In making puffed pig skin, the pig skin is first cooked, and then
-thoroughly scraped with a knife in order to remove the oil and fat. It
-is then hung up in the sun to dry for about ten days. When it is ready
-for the puffing or blistering process, which is accomplished by
-roasting the dried skin in hot gravel in a shallow pan over a slow
-fire This process whitens and puffs, or blisters, the skin.
-
-The puffed pig skin is cut into small cubes and used in soups. It has
-a spongy appearance with very little taste.
-
-The skin on the hams, shoulders, and sides will puff the best, while
-the skin on the back, legs, and belly will not puff well on roasting
-in the hot gravel, but can be puffed by roasting in peanut oil.
-
-On account of dampness and cloudy weather which interfere with proper
-drying, puffed pig skin is best made during the dry, sunny winter
-months. The product is on sale, however, throughout the year, as it
-keeps well if hung in a fairly dry, airy place. It is commonly seen
-hanging in the front of meat shops in Canton.
-
-[1] For further details on smoking, see sections 55 to 61.
-
-[2] Note: 1 mace = 1⁄100 ounce; 16 ounces = 1 catty.
-
-
-
-
- AGRICULTURAL PUBLICATIONS
- OF THE
- CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE
-
-
-The following agricultural bulletins and publications may be obtained
-at the price indicated from College Bookstore, Canton Christian
-College, Cantor, China.
-
-Bulletin No. 5. Groff, G. W., Agricultural Reciprocity between America
-and China. Illustrated. 40 pp. $0.20.
-
-Bulletin No. 12. Groff, G. W., The Papaya for South China.
-Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 7 pp. $0.10.
-
- Chinese edition under title 木瓜. 8 pp. $0.10.
-
-Bulletin No. 18. Levine, C. O., and Cadbury, W. W., A Study of Milk
-Produced in Kwangtung. 9 pp. $0.10.
-
-Bulletin No. 20. The 1917–18 Journal of the Lingnaam Agricultural
-Society (in Chinese). Illustrated. 150 pp. $0.20.
-
-Bulletin No. 23. Levine, C. O., Notes on Farm Animals and Animal
-Industries in China. Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 54 pp. $0.40.
-
-Bulletin No. 25. Graybill, H. B., Lawn Grasses for South China. 6
-illustrations, 6 pp. $0.20.
-
-Bulletin No. 27. Levine, C. O., Butchering and Curing Meats in China.
-Illustrated. 7 illustrations, 41 pp. $0.20.
-
-Groff, G. W., The Lychee and Lungnan. Canton, 1920. 60 illustrations,
-149 pp. Cloth bound. $2.20.
-
-
-
-
- CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE
- CANTON, CHINA
-
-
- ADMINISTRATIVE AND AGRICULTURAL STAFF
-
- Charles K. Edmunds, Ph.D. (Johns Hopkins University), President.
-
- Chung Wing Kwong, Chu Jen, Vice-President.
-
- Owen E. Pomeroy, B.A. (Harvard University), Bursar.
-
- Kenneth Duncan, M.A. (University of Wisconsin), Dean of the College
- of Arts and Sciences.
-
- George Weidman Groff, M.S. (Pennsylvania State College), Professor
- of Horticulture and Director of Agricultural Work.
-
- Charles Walter Howard, M.S. (University of Minnesota), Professor of
- Biology.
-
- Clinton N. Laird, M.A. (University of Pennsylvania), Professor of
- Chemistry.
-
- Carl Oscar Levine, M.S. in Agr. (Iowa State College of Agriculture
- and Mechanic Arts), Associate Professor of Animal Husbandry.
-
- Taam Sik Hung, B.S. in Agr. (Kansas State Agricultural College),
- Instructor in Animal Husbandry.
-
- Walter Leon Funkhouser, B.S. in Agr. (Pennsylvania State College),
- Instructor.
-
- Floyd A. McClure, B.S. in Agr. (Ohio State University), Instructor.
-
- Fu Po Kwong, M.S. in Agr. (Michigan Agricultural College), Instructor.
-
- Edmund A. Gilbert, Instructor.
-
-
- CO-OPERATING COLLEGE MISSIONS
-
- Pennsylvania State College Mission
- Kansas State Agricultural College
-
-
- TRUSTEES OF CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE
- 156 Fifth Avenue
- New York, U. S. A.
- W. Henry Grant, Secretary
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes.
-
- Minor errors in punctuation have been corrected.
-
- Text contained between underscores was italicised in the original
- printed book.
-
- The text “[Illustration: ” indicates the location of an
- illustration in the printed book. The text after the “: ” and
- up to the final “]” is the caption text.
-
- Table of Contents: “Preface” added to Table of Contents for
- completeness.
-
- Table of Contents: “Blood Sausage” added to Table of Contents to
- match book text.
-
- Page 10: “in other to get a uniform scald” changed to “in order to
- get a uniform scald”.
-
- Page 15: “Killing and Dressing Cattle” changed to “Killing and
- Dressing Beef” to match table of contents.
-
- Page 21: “with them be is usually” changed to “with them is usually”.
-
- Page 24: “Recipes for Curing” changed to “Recipes for Curing Meats”
- to match table of contents.
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUTCHERING AND CURING MEATS IN
-CHINA ***
-
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Butchering and curing meats in China, by Carl Oscar Levine</p>
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-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Butchering and curing meats in China</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Carl Oscar Levine</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: June 10, 2022 [eBook #68282]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Anonymous (This book was produced from images made available by the HathiTrust Digital Library and the Internet Archive.)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUTCHERING AND CURING MEATS IN CHINA ***</div>
-
-
-
-<div class="title-page">
-<p class="tdc smcap">Canton Christian College</p>
-
-<p class="tdc mt2">BULLETIN NO. 27</p>
-
-<h1>BUTCHERING AND CURING<br />
-MEATS IN CHINA</h1>
-
-<p class="tdc mt2">BY</p>
-
-<p class="tdc mt1 larger125">CARL OSCAR LEVINE</p>
-
-<p class="tdc smaller smcap">Associate Professor of Animal Husbandry</p>
-
-
-<p class="tdc mt4 smcap larger110">Canton, China</p>
-
-<p class="tdc larger110">1921</p>
-
-</div>
-
-
-<p class="tdc mt4">Butchering and Curing Meats in China</p>
-
-<h2 class="mt1" id="TOC">CONTENTS</h2>
-
-<table class="tocList">
-<tbody>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#Preface">Preface</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#Introduction">Introduction</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#Origin">Origin of Meat Foods</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="2"><a href="#FAIC">Food Animals in China</a></td>
-<td class="right smaller">Section</td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left">&#8195; </td>
-<td class="left">Hogs</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_1">1</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Cattle</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_2">2</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Water Buffalo</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_3">3</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Sheep and Goats</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_4">4</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Poultry</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_5">5</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="2"><a href="#SOAFS">Selection of Animals for Slaughter</a></td>
-<td class="right smaller"></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Health</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_6">6</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Condition</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_7">7</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Breeding</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_8">8</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Feeding</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_9">9</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Age and Size for Killing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_10">10</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#POTAFS">Preparation of the Animals for Slaughter</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#BADH">Bleeding and Dressing Hogs</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Tools</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_11">11</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Scalding Equipment</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_12">12</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Killing the Hog</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_13">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">“Watered” Meat</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_14">14</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Scalding and Scraping</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_15">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Gutting</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_16">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Cooling the Carcass</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_17">17</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Cutting up the Carcass</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_18">18</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Shoulders</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_19">19</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Middle Part</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_20">20</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Hams</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_21">21</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Trimmings</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_22">22</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Head</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_23">23</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Feet</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_24">24</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#KADB">Killing and Dressing Beef</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Tools</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_25">25</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Stunning</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_26">26</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Bleeding</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_27">27</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Skinning and Gutting</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_28">28</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Treatment of Hides</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_29">29</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#KADS">Killing and Dressing Sheep</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Stunning and Bleeding</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_30">30</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Skinning</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_31">31</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Gutting</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_32">32</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#BADP">Bleeding and Dressing Poultry</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Bleeding and Picking</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_33">33</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#KMF">Keeping Meat Fresh</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#CMAM">Curing Meats: American Methods</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Preparing the Meat for Curing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_34">34</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Vessels for Curing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_35">35</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Curing Agents</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_36">36</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#WADCC">Wet and Dry Cures Compared</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#RFCM">Recipes for Curing Meats</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Corned Beef</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_37">37</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Dried Beef</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_38">38</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Plain Salt Pork</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_39">39</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Dry Cured Pork</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_40">40</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Sugar Cured Pork</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_41">41</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Pork Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_42">42</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Mixed Meat Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_43">43</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Bologna Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_44">44</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Blood Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_45">45</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Smoked, or Country Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_46">46</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Frankfort, or Vienna Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_47">47</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Liver Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_48">48</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Summer Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_49">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Headcheese</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_50">50</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Scrapple</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_51">51</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Snow Packing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_52">52</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Partial Cooking</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_53">53</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Rendering Lard</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_54">54</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Smoked Meats</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_55">55</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">The Smoke House</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_56">56</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">The Fuel</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_57">57</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Preparing Meat for Smoking</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_58">58</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">The Fire</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_59">59</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Keeping Smoked Meats</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_60">60</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Recipe for Yellow Wash</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_61">61</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr class="spaced">
-<td class="left smcap" colspan="3"><a href="#CMR">Chinese Meat Recipes</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Bean Sauce Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_62">62</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Pickle for Bean Sauce Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_63">63</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Preparing the Meat for Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_64">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Sausage Casing (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腸衣</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_65">65</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Softening the Casing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_66">66</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Filling the Casing</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_67">67</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Sunning and Drying</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_68">68</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Season and Weather for Making Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_69">69</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Lean Pork Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">瘦肉腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_70">70</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Liver Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">潤腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_71">71</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left"><i>Tung Koon</i> Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">東莞腊腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_72">72</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Oyster Sauce Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">蠔油腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_73">73</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Catsup Sausage</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_74">74</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Roast or Baked Sausage (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">火腸</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_75">75</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Cured Ham</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_76">76</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Sun Dried Pork (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">瘦𦡳肉</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_77">77</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Pickled Pig’s Feet (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">札蹄</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_78">78</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Pickled Beef</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_79">79</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Dried Rice Birds (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊禾花雀</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_80">80</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Pork Stuffed Liver (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">金銀潤</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_81">81</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left"><i>Lo Mei</i> (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">鹵味</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_82">82</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Roast Meat (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">燒肉</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_83">83</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Dried Duck (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊鴨</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_84">84</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td class="left"></td>
-<td class="left">Puffed Pig Skin (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">豬皮</span>)</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Sec_85">85</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-</tbody>
-</table>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Preface">Preface</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>This bulletin discusses the different methods, both Chinese and
-foreign, of butchering and curing meats. The aim has been to present
-the material in a practical way so as to be of value to the general
-public as well as of special service in connection with the courses in
-Meats offered at the Canton Christian College.</p>
-
-<p>The writer realizes that this bulletin is not complete, in that the
-subject, especially in regard to curing meats in different parts of
-China, is far from exhausted. However, it is thought best to publish
-in this form, and in a later edition to include additional material
-which may be secured on the subject. Constructive criticism on this
-bulletin will be received gladly.</p>
-
-<p>The writer is especially indebted to the United States Department of
-Agriculture for permission to use material from its publications.
-Special acknowledgment is also due to Mr. Taam Sik Hung and Mr. W. L.
-Funkhouser of the agricultural staff of the Canton Christian College,
-who have made valuable suggestions in the preparation of the
-manuscript, to agricultural students who have taken the course in
-Meats under the writer’s supervision and have assisted in securing the
-data on Chinese methods of curing meats, and to Mr. A. H. Holt,
-Instructor of English in Canton Christian College, for his assistance
-in reading the manuscript.</p>
-
-<p class="right pmr2 mt1 smcap">C. O. Levine</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">{1}</span>
-<p class="tdc mt4 larger125">Butchering and Curing Meats in China</p>
-<h2 class="nobreak mt1" id="Introduction">Introduction</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The Chinese, like most people, are lovers of pork, beef, mutton, and
-poultry, and consume these meats, both fresh and cured, in large
-quantities each year.</p>
-
-<p>Fresh meat is practically all consumed within a few miles of the
-locality in which it is butchered. However large quantities of cured
-meats, especially cured pork and duck, are shipped long distances from
-the localities where they are cured. Cured hams and bacon are shipped
-from Kuling north to Peking, and south to Canton. Yunnan exports to
-Canton and other parts of China, to the Philippine Islands and other
-countries to the south, a considerable quantity of home cured ham,
-which is quite popular with the Chinese in those regions. On the other
-hand, a good deal of cured ham and bacon is imported, chiefly from
-Australia and England, to the various ports of China and finds its way
-inland.</p>
-
-<p>For a number of years Canton Christian College has been studying the
-butchering and curing problems as they exist in southern China,
-particularly in the region of Canton. Meats of various kinds have
-been butchered and cured by the College. Both the foreign and
-Chinese methods of handling the meat have been practiced and
-studied. In this work special attention has been given to the
-butchering and curing of pork.</p>
-
-<p>The climate of Canton is one not especially well adapted to
-curing meat. This is due to the fact that the temperature never falls
-below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, even in the coldest winter season.
-Further, this low a temperature is not maintained more than a few
-days of the winter season, and only at night. Before noon it usually
-rises to 50 or 60, following even the coldest nights. In spite of the
-fact that the temperature never gets very low, the work at the College
-has demonstrated that it is possible to produce good cured meat, if
-done properly, even without the use of ice. However there is some
-risk of the meat spoiling without ice, and it is recommended,
-especially in curing large pieces of meat, such as hams and shoulders,
-that ice be used to facilitate the cooling of the meat before the cure
-is applied.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">{2}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Origin">Origin of Meat Foods</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Man uses for his meat diet almost all classes of animal life. However,
-the principal classes of animals that supply the human race with meat
-food are: cattle, hogs, sheep, poultry, and, in China and southern
-Europe, the buffalo. In Northern China the camel and in Western China
-the yak are also used to some extent for food. Such animals as birds
-(other than poultry), rabbits, fish and other forms of water life,
-while of importance, do not provide as large a supply of meat food as
-do the domesticated animals mentioned above.</p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="FAIC">Food Animals in China</h2>
-
-<p>The animals in China from which the main supply of meat comes are
-swine, cattle, water buffalo, and poultry (including chickens, ducks,
-and geese).</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_1">§ 1. Hogs</h3>
-
-<p>Hogs in China are of both the bacon and lard types. The lard type is
-the most common, except in the provinces of Yunnan, Szechwan, and some
-regions in central China, where the bacon type is found.</p>
-
-<p>The Chinese lard hogs are characterized by their large, pendulous
-bellies, sway-backs, light hams, and by their slowness in maturing.
-They are inferior hogs when compared with the improved breeds of
-Europe and America, but as a rule are better than the native hogs
-found in other parts of the Orient. Their large bellies and low backs
-are largely due to the fact that from the time the pigs begin to eat
-until they are butchered, all concentrate feeds are given in the form
-of a very wet swill, and they are allowed to drink all they can hold
-of such feed twice a day. Such feeding stretches the digestive tract
-to an abnormal degree, and permanently enlarges the belly and pulls
-down the back. By giving less water with the feed, and not allowing
-the pigs to fill up with all they can possibly hold, this abnormal
-development can largely be prevented. Intelligent breeding for several
-generations, by mating animals with the most desirable conformation,
-such as straight backs, wide, deep hams, long, deep bodies, short
-heads, and short legs, should bring about further improvement.
-Breeding for fast growing and early maturing animals should also be
-practiced, as the most profitable feeding is with young animals.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig01.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1. Heifer two years old of the native humped variety</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig02.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2. Beef-draft water buffalos with calves a few weeks old</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig03.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3. Chinese “fat-tailed” variety of sheep</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig04.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4. Chinese lard hogs ready for butchering raised
- at Canton Christian College</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_3">{3}</p>
-
-<p>It is interesting to note that years ago the native lard hog of
-southern China was used to secure desirable characters in two of our
-most important modern breeds, the Berkshire and the Poland China
-breeds. However, since that time these western breeds have been
-further greatly improved by intelligent selection and breeding, while
-the Chinese hogs have been very little improved, if at all. To-day, in
-comparing the native Chinese lard hog with the modern western breeds,
-there is no resemblance in the Chinese hog to the wide, slightly
-arched back, deep, long sides, deep, full hams, small heads, short
-legs, and rapid growth of these modern breeds which have, in their
-origin, blood of the native Chinese lard hog.</p>
-
-<p>Due to slow maturity and undesirable conformation, the Chinese hog is
-not as economical in converting feeds into meat as is the improved
-western hog. However, the meat is of good flavor and can be
-successfully cured. An exception to this is the case of animals that
-have been largely fed on rice bran, which produces a soft, oily pork,
-although no difficulty is experienced in curing such pork. Wheat bran
-produces a firm flesh. If a firm flesh is desired, it is important
-that rice bran or polish not be fed to hogs during the last six to
-eight weeks of the fattening period.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_2">§ 2. Cattle</h3>
-
-<p>The main source of beef in China is the native “humped” cow, called by
-the people of southern China <i>Wong Ngau</i> which means “yellow cow”.
-This native variety of humped cattle is a good beef animal, although
-there is room for a great deal of improvement by breeding for early
-maturity, greater size, and development of a more distinctly beef type.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_3">§ 3. Water Buffalo Beef</h3>
-
-<p>The water buffalo, while chiefly used for draft purposes, is an
-important source of beef in China. There is very little difference in
-quality between the Chinese buffalo beef and ordinary beef. However,
-the lean meat of the buffalo is considerably darker in color than the
-lean meat in ordinary beef.</p>
-
-<p>Young stock, up to three years old, that have not been used for draft
-purposes, are best for beef. Beef from buffalos or cattle that have
-been used for work for some time before butchering is generally tough,
-and less palatable than beef from animals that have not been worked.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_4">{4}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_4">§ 4. Sheep and Goats</h3>
-
-<p>In northern China, especially in the provinces of Shantung and Chihli,
-the fat-tailed variety of sheep is raised to a considerable extent,
-both for mutton and for wool. The covering of wool is light, however,
-when compared with that of the wool breeds, and this sheep is properly
-classed as a mutton sheep. They are so called because of their large
-fat tails, which are about three to four inches thick, six to eight
-inches wide, and eight to ten inches long. Fat-tailed sheep are
-shipped by rail and by boat to many parts of China from the regions in
-which they are raised.</p>
-
-<p>The goat, while of less importance than the sheep as a source of meat,
-is raised in limited numbers in many parts of China for meat purposes.
-Meat from the goat is considered inferior to that from sheep.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_5">§ 5. Poultry</h3>
-
-<p>The most common of all animal food in China is probably poultry. Many
-varieties of chickens, ducks, and geese are raised. Some of the best
-breeds of chickens for meat are the Langshang, from the Shanghai
-region, of which there are two varieties, the black and the white; and
-the Swatow, of which there are also two varieties, the white and buff.
-These breeds are large and meaty, individuals weighing from five to
-eight pounds. There is a number of other distinct breeds and varieties
-of chickens, which, while they are not as good for meat as the above,
-due to their smaller size, are used extensively for food.</p>
-
-<p>In the region of Canton, the common variety of chickens used for
-meat, and also for egg production, is a small buff-colored variety,
-generally more or less mixed with other varieties. This variety,
-which is called <i>wong kai</i> (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">黃雞</span>) by the Cantonese, is becoming very
-popular in the Philippine Islands, where it is called the
-“Cantonese” chicken because of its introduction from Canton.</p>
-
-<p>The most common ducks of southern China are of a dark colored variety.
-In north China the white Peking duck is the common variety. Both are
-excellent for meat.</p>
-
-<p>There are three varieties of Chinese geese; the grey, white,
-and brown. The grey variety is probably more generally used for
-meat than are the other two varieties. It is the only variety raised
-on a large scale in southern China, and its meat is of excellent
-quality. Chinese geese are distinguished from other breeds of geese
-by the fleshy protuberance at the base of the bill and front of the
-skull.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">{5}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="SOAFS">Selection of Animals for Slaughter</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_6">§ 6. Health</h3>
-
-<p>In the selection of animals for slaughter health should be given first
-consideration. Even though the animal has been fairly fed and carries
-a prime finish, the best quality of meat cannot be obtained if the
-animal is unhealthy. If the animal has fever or serious derangement of
-any kind, the meat will not be wholesome. There is little direct
-evidence of harmful results from the use of animals in the first
-stages of such diseases as tuberculosis, cholera, plague, rinderpest,
-and such diseases, but the only safe course is to discourage the use
-of any animal for food that is known to be in imperfect health. The
-keeping qualities of meat are always impaired by fever or other
-derangements of the system. Bruises, broken limbs, and like accidents
-all have the same effect on the meat as ill health, and unless the
-animal can be dressed immediately after such accidents, it is best not
-to use the meat for food. This is especially true if the rise in
-temperature, which usually results from such accidents, has been 2
-degrees F. or more. A rise in temperature just before slaughtering
-usually results in a stringy, bluish meat, which is difficult to cure.
-Animals should not be butchered while in heat, as the meat of such
-animals will be strong, and cannot be cured, as it sours quickly.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_7">§ 7. Condition</h3>
-
-<p>First class meat cannot be obtained from animals in poor flesh.
-The proper amount of fat must be present to give juiciness and
-flavor to the meat. It is more important, however, that the animal
-should be in good physical condition than that it should be very
-fat. “Never kill an animal when it is losing flesh” is a maxim
-followed by butchers. There is a good deal of truth in the saying.
-When the animal is losing in flesh, the muscle fibers are shrinking
-in volume and contain correspondingly less water. As a result, the
-meat is tougher and drier. When an animal is gaining in flesh, the
-opposite condition prevails, and a better quality of meat results.
-Also, a better quality of meat will be obtained from an animal in
-medium flesh, but gaining in weight, than from a very fat animal
-that is neither gaining nor losing in flesh.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_6">{6}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_8">§ 8. Breeding</h3>
-
-<p>Because of careless selection of breeding stock, most of the hogs in
-the region of Canton have low backs, large bellies, scant hams, never
-produce the best quality of meat, and have a low dressing percentage.
-The improved hog with a level or slightly arched wide back, long,
-deep, smooth sides, full hams, and short neck and head, has meat of
-the best quality, and such hogs have the highest dressing percentage.
-Fine bone, soft hair, and mellow flesh, qualities generally found in
-well bred animals, are desired in all animals used for meat, as they
-indicate meat of a good quality, with a minimum of waste.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_9">§ 9. Feeding</h3>
-
-<p>The kind of food the hog gets during the last six or eight weeks of
-the fattening period largely determines the flavor and the character
-of the meat. During that period, it is best not to feed very much of
-rice bran, or peanut cake, as when such feeds are given they produce
-very soft, oily fat. Wheat bran and corn produce a firm fat, and one
-or the other, or both together, should constitute a large part of the
-grain ration for the fattening hog.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_10">§ 10. Age and Size for Killing</h3>
-
-<p>It is a well known fact that meat from an old animal is very likely to
-be tough and difficult to cook sufficiently to make it tender. On the
-other hand, meat from very young animals is watery and often lacks
-flavor. An old animal in good condition is to be preferred to a young
-one in poor condition. Hogs can be killed for meat any time after six
-weeks, but the most profitable age at which to slaughter is from eight
-to ten months. Hogs at that age have a higher dressing percentage than
-when younger. Gain in weight is made at a lower cost in young animals
-than in older animals. For this reason, it is not advisable to keep a
-hog much longer than twelve months, or a beef animal more than two
-years, unless feed is very cheap.</p>
-
-<p>If the pork is to be cured, the hogs for butchering should weigh from
-one hundred and thirty to two hundred pounds. Larger hogs can be
-butchered conveniently, although a hog much heavier will be more
-difficult to handle.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_7">{7}</p>
-
-<p>In southern China, where the day temperature is seldom below sixty
-degrees Fahrenheit during the butchering season, a difficulty in
-cooling the meat will be experienced, unless ice is used, and if the
-meat is not properly cooled it will not cure well.</p>
-
-<p>Chickens have the most tender meat at the age of three to six months,
-depending on the variety, and at that age sell for the highest price.
-Poultry that have just reached maturity are best for curing.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="POTAFS">Preparation of the Animals for Slaughter</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>It is important that the animal to be slaughtered should not be given
-food from twenty to thirty hours before slaughtering. If kept on full
-feed until just before it is killed the circulatory system is gorged,
-and the blood, loaded with assimilated nutrients is driven to the
-extremities of the capillaries. In such condition, it is impossible to
-drain the veins thoroughly, and a reddish colored, unattractive
-carcass will result. Food in the digestive tract decomposes very
-rapidly after the animal is killed, and when the dressing is slow the
-gases from such decomposing food are apt to flavor the meat.</p>
-
-<p>Water should be given freely up to the time of slaughter, as it helps
-to keep the temperature normal and helps to wash the waste matter from
-the system, resulting in a nicely colored carcass.</p>
-
-<p>The care of the animals before slaughter has considerable effect on
-the meat. They should not be excited in any way sufficiently to raise
-the body temperature. Excitement will prevent proper draining of the
-blood vessels, and, if extreme, will cause souring of the meat on
-curing. An animal should never be killed immediately after it has been
-heated by a hard run. It is better to let such an animal rest until
-the next day rather than to run the risk of the meat spoiling, as the
-meat of an animal that has been overheated will not keep well. Such
-meat is usually of pale color and very often will become sour or
-putrid within three or four days after it has been dressed, even
-though kept near the freezing point while it is being cured.</p>
-
-<p>Care should be taken not to bruise the animals in handling them just
-before killing. Bruises cause the blood to settle in the part of the
-carcass affected, presenting an uninviting appearance, besides
-affecting the curing qualities of the meat.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_8">{8}</p>
-
-<p>Before killing, a twenty-five hour fast, plenty of clean water,
-careful handling and rest, are all important items in securing the
-best quality of meat, either for cooking fresh or for curing purposes.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="BADH">Bleeding and Dressing Hogs</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_11">§ 11. Tools</h3>
-
-<p>The essential tools for doing good work at killing time are: A good
-sticking knife, a cleaver, a 14-inch steel on which to sharpen the
-knives, hog hooks, bell-shaped scrapers, meat saw, and gambrel. More
-than one of each tool is necessary if many hogs are to be butchered
-and handled efficiently. A block and tackle will reduce labor in
-hanging the hog for gutting.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_12">§ 12. Scalding Equipment</h3>
-
-<p>In China, the water for scalding is heated in a sort of a furnace
-commonly called <i>t’ong chue ts’o</i>. (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">劏豬灶</span>). The furnace is made of
-brick and concrete, or concrete only. It is usually about thirty-six
-inches wide, six feet long, and twenty-eight inches high at one end,
-gradually sloping to about twenty-six inches high near the other end,
-where a large brass or iron basin for holding water is placed over a
-fire grate. The basin in which the water is heated is usually about
-twenty inches in diameter, eight inches deep in the center, and
-diminishing in depth from the center to the rim. The shallow basin
-with large contact with the fire obtains quick heating and saving of
-fuel. The top of the furnace is made to slope from all sides toward
-the bowl so that, when hot water is poured on the hog which lies on
-the table, the water runs back into the basin.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_13">§ 13. Killing the Hog</h3>
-
-<p>All tools and apparatus used in killing and handling the animal should
-be ready before it is killed. The knives and saws should be sharp and
-clean. The water should be near the boiling point and the block and
-tackle ready, if one is to be used.</p>
-
-<p>The common and most satisfactory method of killing the hog is by
-severing the large arteries and veins in the neck of the animal with a
-sticking knife about nine inches long. The animal should be laid on
-its back and held firmly while it is being stuck. Two men<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">{9}</span> can handle
-a large hog if they work intelligently. By reaching under the animal and
-grasping the opposite legs and suddenly jerking the legs, a heavy hog
-can be easily turned over on its back. One man standing astride the
-animal with his feet close against its sides, and holding the front
-legs, can easily control it while the other does the sticking.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig05.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5. Tools Used by Chinese in Butchering.</span></p>
- <ul class="index left">
- <li class="smcap smaller indx">Lower Row Right to Left.
- <ul class="index left">
- <li>Sticking knife.</li>
- <li>Cutting and scraping knives.</li>
- <li>Heavy knife for cutting meat.</li>
- <li>Knife for cutting bone.</li>
- <li>Cleaver.</li>
- <li>Funnel for Stuffing sausage casing.</li>
- <li>Hook used in handling meat that is being roasted.</li>
- <li>Tool used in roasting meat.</li>
- </ul></li>
- </ul>
- <ul class="index left">
- <li class="smcap smaller indx">Upper Row Right to Left.
- <ul class="index left">
- <li>Cork with needles for pricking casing when it is being
- filled in order to let out the air.</li>
- <li>Hooks for handling carcass.</li>
- </ul></li>
- </ul>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig06.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6. Hog scraped and hung up for gutting.</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig07.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7. Scraping the hog on the</span> “<i>t’ong chue t’so</i>”.</p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is a common custom with Chinese butchers to lay the hog across a
-narrow bench for sticking. This requires more handling of the animal
-then when the animal is simply turned over on its back on the floor,
-or on a low table or box for the sticking.</p>
-
-<p>The sticking knife should have a blade eight or nine inches long. In
-America, a knife with straight edges, which at the end tapers to a
-point is used, while in China, a knife tapering from two inches wide
-at the handle to a long, narrow point is used. Either type of knife
-will do. The knife should be thrust diagonally into the neck for about
-six to eight inches of its length, depending on the size of the hog.
-It should be inserted on the middle line of the body, about three or
-four inches in front of the sternum, with the sharp edge of the knife
-toward the rear and the knife pointed in the direction of the loin of
-the hog. One hand of the operator should be held on the lower jaw of
-the hog to help hold the animal steady. It will require a little
-practice to stick properly. If rightly done, the large blood vessels
-will be severed, the animal will bleed quickly, and be dead in less
-than five minutes.</p>
-
-<p>In large packing houses, where each man has a certain piece of work to
-do, the hogs are hung by one leg upon a moving over-head track. As the
-hogs move by the killer, he grasps one front leg with one hand, and,
-with the other hand, does the sticking. Such an arrangement is
-practical where a large number of hogs is killed daily.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_14">§ 14. “Watered” Meat</h3>
-
-<p>There is a very common practice in China of increasing the weight of
-the dressed hog carcass by forcing water into the meat as soon as the
-blood has drained away and the scraping is finished. Water is forced
-in through the large blood vessels leading away from the heart. To do
-this properly, care is taken in sticking not to sever the large blood
-vessels from the heart. This is accomplished by using a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">{10}</span> long, narrow
-sticking knife, which is thrust into the heart itself. The animal thus
-stuck bleeds into the chest cavity, which is not desirable, as the
-bleeding will not be as thorough as when the large blood vessels only
-are severed. The carcass of the hog may be increased several pounds by
-this treatment. It is difficult to detect from the appearance of the
-pork whether or not it has been watered. On roasting, watered meat
-shrinks more than normal meat. Watered meat will spoil quicker than
-normal meat, and will not cure well. The practice of “watering” meat
-should be discouraged.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_15">§ 15. Scalding and Scraping</h3>
-
-<p>An soon as the hog is dead, it must be scalded and the hair and scurf
-quickly removed. The animal is then placed on the top of the <i>t’ong
-chue ts’o</i>. The head and shoulders are scalded first. They should be
-immersed in the water, which should be from 185 to 190 degrees
-Fahrenheit. If the water is hotter, the hair will set. Care should be
-taken to keep the carcass constantly moving by turning it from side to
-side, in order to get a uniform scald and not to allow the carcass to
-stay in contact with the bottom of the bowl in which the water is
-being heated. Occasionally it should be removed from the water and the
-hair “tried”. As soon as the hair and scurf slip easily, the scalding
-is complete. The hind quarters are scalded in the same manner. The
-head and feet should be scraped first, as the hair sets on those parts
-first. Two or three pounds of wood ashes put in the water will help
-loosen the scurf. Proper scalding and scraping require fast work. If
-the carcass gets cold before the hair has been removed, the hair will
-set and have to be removed by shaving with a sharp knife. For
-scraping, the candle-stick or bell-shaped scraper is best. What cannot
-be removed with it, can be removed with a sharp, curved knife.</p>
-
-<p>In America when only from one to three hogs are butchered
-at a time the custom is to heat the water in a large kettle over a stove
-or out-door fire. The hot water is poured into a barrel which is
-tipped at an angle with the top of the table, the top of the table being
-level with the lower side of the top of the barrel. The hog is
-slid into the barrel, first the head end, and then the rear end. The
-body is kept in motion by pulling it up and down until it is scalded,
-and the hair and scurf slip well. This is a quick method of scalding
-as much of the hog can be immersed in the water at one time,
-but it requires more labor than does the method of scalding with the
-<i>t’ong chue ts’o</i>.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_11">{11}</p>
-
-<p>In large packing houses, the hogs are automatically scalded and
-scraped, by being drawn through a tube filled with water of the proper
-temperature. Stiff brushes on the inside of the tube remove the hair
-and scurf as the hog passes through.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_16">§ 16. Gutting</h3>
-
-<p>The entrails of the hog may be removed with the hog lying on a table,
-as is the common practice in the Canton region. The hog should be
-propped so that it lies on its back. However, it is more conveniently
-done with the hog hung up by its hind legs. To hang up the hog
-requires what is known as a gambrel, which may be simply a strong
-stick, pointed at the ends, about an inch and a half in diameter and
-eighteen inches long, a block and tackle, and a secure place
-over-head, about nine feet high, for attaching one end of the tackle.
-With a sharp knife, the cords in the hind legs just above the
-dew claws are separated from the bone enough to allow inserting the
-sharpened end of the gambrel, and thus spreading the legs. The gambrel
-should have a hook or ring in the center for attaching it to one end
-of a block and tackle. The carcass is then lifted so that the head end
-clears the floor or ground about four inches. A better and more
-convenient gambrel may be made of iron and adjustable for hogs of
-different sizes.</p>
-
-<p>After the hog is hung up, clean water should be poured on it and it
-should then be scraped clean of all remaining patches of hair, scurf,
-or dirt. The head should then be removed by cutting through the flesh
-to the atlas joint where the neck joins the head, cutting entirely
-around the neck about an inch back of the ears. If the head does not
-drop off, it can be easily removed by grasping it by the ears and
-twisting it.</p>
-
-<p>If removing the entrails, first cut through the flesh between the hind
-legs, to the bone, and split the pelvic bones with a saw or cleaver.
-Cutting through the bone is easily done if the cut through the flesh
-is made on the midline between the hind legs, as the bone is very thin
-at that point. Cut through the flesh down the midline of the belly
-toward the head, to the breastbone. In doing this, care should be
-taken not to cut the intestines, which lie just beneath the thick
-layer of fat meat. By shielding the point of the knife with the left
-hand and guiding it with the right, there is little danger of cutting
-the intestines. The entrails are now exposed, and the fat from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">{12}</span> around
-the stomach should be removed. This fat is strong in flavor and should
-not be mixed with the leaf fat. Cut around the anus close to the tail
-and strip the rectum from its attachment to the back bone. A string
-should be tightly tied around the end of the rectum and the urethra so
-that there will be no danger of the contents of the intestines or
-bladder soiling the meat. If the animal is a male, care should be
-taken not to cut the penis in making the cut down the midline of the
-body and between the hind legs. The penis should be stripped from the
-fat in which it is embedded, and thrown over the back of the animal
-out of the way of the butcher. Then remove the stomach and intestines
-by cutting across the gullet, after first pulling the gullet up into
-the chest cavity. Remove the liver from its attachment to the
-intestines and remove the gall bladder from its attachment to the
-liver. Care should be taken not to cut the gall bladder. Now cut
-through the breast bone, beginning at the front end and cutting upward
-with a knife through the flesh to the bone. The bone is best cut with
-a saw, and the cut should be made upward. The “pluck”, which consists
-of the heart, lungs, and gullet, is removed by cutting across the
-artery which can be easily seen running down the backbone, and by
-cutting around the diaphragm close to the ribs. Split the backbone
-with a saw to facilitate cooling. In cutting, a knife should always be
-used for cutting through the flesh before the saw is used. If the saw
-is used for cutting the meat, the cut surface of the meat will have a
-rough, unattractive appearance.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_17">§ 17. Cooling the Carcass</h3>
-
-<p>As a rule, the butchers in Canton cut up the carcass immediately after
-gutting. This may be necessary in a warm climate where no ice is used
-to facilitate cooling, in order to prevent the meat from souring, but
-the meat handles much better if it is cooled before it is cut up. This
-may be done during the cold weather of the winter season by butchering
-in the evening and allowing the carcass to cool over night, or by
-placing the meat in a refrigerator, at a temperature of from 34 to 40
-degrees Fahrenheit. Freshly killed meat absorbs odors very readily and
-there should be no fresh paint, tar, kerosene, or like substances near
-the fresh meat.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig08.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 8. A good lard hog. Note the full back and hams,
-short neck, deep sides, short legs, and excellent
-quality.</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
- <img src="images/fig09.jpg" alt=""/>
- <div class="caption">
- <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 9. Dressed carcass: 1, hams; 2, bacon; 3, fatback; 4, shoulder;
-5, jowl; 6, shoulder butt; 7, leaf lard; 8, ribs; 9, fat back and chops;
-10, head.</span></p>
- </div>
-</div>
-
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_18">§ 18. Cutting up the Carcass</h3>
-
-<p>After the two halves of the carcass have been cooled, they may be
-placed on a table with the meat side up. The front legs are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">{13}</span> removed
-about an inch above the knee and the hind legs about an inch above the
-hock. Immediately remove the leaf lard and the kidneys, all in one
-piece, so as to facilitate cooling, using the hands to strip the leaf
-lard from its attachment to the sides. Strip out the tenderloin.
-Divide each half of the carcass into three parts, the shoulders,
-middle and hams. For cutting through the flesh, a heavy knife with a
-curved blade is best. A saw should be used in cutting through the
-bone. Cutting should be across the grain of the meat as much as is
-possible, in order that the meat will carve better after cooking.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_19">§ 19. Shoulders</h3>
-
-<p>The shoulder cut is made between the fourth and fifth ribs, where the
-ribs leave the backbone. The cut should be made at right angles with
-the top and bottom edges of the middle piece in order to make a
-rectangular middle piece. This necessitates a diagonal cut across the
-end of the fourth rib. If the shoulders are to be cured, remove the
-ribs and the backbone from the shoulder piece. Cut close to the ribs
-in removing them in order to leave as much meat on the shoulder as is
-possible. Cut off the top of the shoulder with about one and one-half
-inches of the cartilage and bone at the top. This removes most of the
-fat meat and trims the shoulder for curing. The shoulder should be
-further trimmed by cutting off rough parts with a sharp knife.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_20">§ 20. Middle Part</h3>
-
-<p>Separate the hams from the middle by cutting just back of the
-beginning of the rise in the backbone. The ribs should be separated
-from the side meat. If it is desired to make pork chops, care should
-be taken to leave the long muscle on either side of the backbone
-attached to the backbone and ribs. The end of the ribs should then be
-cut off with a cleaver, leaving about three inches of the ribs
-attached to the backbone to form part of the chops. In preparing the
-chops for roasting, cuts should be made through the meat between the
-ribs and between the vertebrae.</p>
-
-<p>It is the custom for butchers in Canton to remove all the meat from
-the ribs and backbone. The sides are then cut into strips about one
-inch wide, cutting from the top to the bottom, and used, fresh or
-cured. The ribs and backbone are then cut into small parts and
-prepared in a very tasty way with a sweet dressing. The dish prepared
-in this manner is known as <i>chue p’aai kwat</i> (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">豬排骨</span>).</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_14">{14}</p>
-
-<p>If the side meat is to be made into cured bacon, the first method of
-separating the ribs from the meat is followed. This leaves the side
-meat about one and a half to two inches thick. The strip of pure fat
-meat along the top, known as the fat back, the strip of belly fat at
-the bottom, up to, and including the teats, should be removed. The
-middle piece which is left after thus trimming, is used for making
-cured bacon. The fat back and the belly strip can be used for lard.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_21">§ 21. Hams</h3>
-
-<p>If the hams are to be cured, all sharp points should be smoothed off,
-giving a neat, rounded shape to the ham.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_22">§ 22. Trimmings</h3>
-
-<p>The small pieces of meat cut from the shoulders, hams, and middle
-pieces in trimming, maybe used fresh, or made into sausage. The fat of
-the trimmings may be used for making lard.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_23">§ 23. Head</h3>
-
-<p>The fattest part of the head may be used for lard, or cut into strips
-about three quarters of an inch wide and cured, or it may be used for
-making sausage or head cheese. The snout, ears, and tongue may be used
-fresh or pickled.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_24">§ 24. Feet</h3>
-
-<p>The small amount of meat on the feet is considered very delicious. The
-feet may be either cooked for immediate use, or they may be pickled.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">{15}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="KADB">Killing and Dressing Beef</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_25">§ 25. Tools</h3>
-
-<p>The following tools are necessary for killing and dressing cattle: an
-ax, an 8-inch sticking knife, a skinning knife, a steel for sharpening
-the knives, a 28-inch meat saw, gambrel, and a block and tackle for
-hoisting up the carcass.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_26">§ 26. Stunning</h3>
-
-<p>The first step in killing and dressing beef is to secure the animal so
-that it cannot possibly break loose. A strong halter, or new half-inch
-rope, tied around the neck and with one end tied to a ring in the
-floor, or to a tree, works very well. If the animal has a ring or a
-bar through the nose, as most cattle have in China, it should be
-further secured by tying with a strong rope attached to the ring or
-bar. The animal should be tied very short so that it cannot move its
-head to any extent.</p>
-
-<p>Stunning is done in two ways. One method is to strike a heavy blow
-with a stunning ax, weighing about three pounds, made especially for
-the purpose, with an extension head about an inch in diameter which
-readily crashes through the bone covering the brain, and into the
-brain itself. The blow should be struck in the center of the forehead.
-An ordinary ax with a long handle, can be used, although the kind
-described above is best, in that it is sure to stun the animal, and
-thus is most humane. The other method which is commonly used in
-southern China, is to strike just back of the poll, and dislocate the
-atlas joint. This is just as effective as a blew on the forehead, if
-the blow is struck with enough force. Water buffalos have a very hard
-skull and for this reason are sometimes shot. The end of the gun
-should be held close to the head and carefully aimed at a point in the
-center of the forehead, where lines would cross if drawn from the base
-of the right horn to the left eye, and from the base of the left horn
-to the right eye.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_27">§ 27. Bleeding</h3>
-
-<p>The animal should be bled immediately after stunning or shooting. To
-do this properly requires practice. With the stunned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">{16}</span> animal lying
-stretched out on the floor, stand at its throat with the back toward
-its body. Place one foot against the jaw, and with the other hold back
-the front legs of the animal. Reaching down between the feet, lay open
-the skin from the breast toward the chin for a distance of about ten
-inches, using the ordinary skinning knife. Insert the knife with the
-back against the breastbone and the tip directed toward the spinal
-column at the top of the shoulders, cutting just under the windpipe,
-and about five or six inches deep. The vein and the artery cross at
-this point, and if they are severed, the blood will flow out very
-rapidly. When the vein has been cut below the windpipe, run a knife in
-on top of the windpipe and sever the blood vessels on that side also.
-If stuck too deep, the pleura will be punctured and the blood will
-flow into the chest cavity, causing a bloody carcass, which is not
-desirable.</p>
-
-<p>The animal will bleed out if the blood vessels on one side only are
-cut, but it will bleed more quickly if those on both sides are
-severed. A little practice is required to do it properly, but when
-once learned it is not easily forgotten.</p>
-
-<p>Bleeding can be accomplished, but not so rapidly, if the throat of the
-animal is simply cut, just back of the jaws.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_28">§ 28. Skinning and Gutting</h3>
-
-<p>Begin skinning the carcass as it lies on its side, by splitting the
-skin down the face from the poll to the nose. Skin the face back over
-the eyes on both sides and down over the cheeks. Cut around the base
-of the horns, leaving the ears on the hide. Split the skin from the
-chin down the throat to meet the incision made in bleeding. Skin jaws,
-sides of neck, and a little distance back of poll. Remove the head by
-cutting from just back of jaws to the depression back of the poll. The
-atlas joint will be found at this point, and may be easily unjointed
-by cutting the ligaments which hold it in place.</p>
-
-<p>The carcass should then be rolled on its back and held there by a
-small stick about three feet long, with a sharp spike at the ends. One
-end should be stuck in the floor, and the other end braced against the
-brisket.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_17">{17}</p>
-
-<p>Split the skin over the back of the fore legs from between the dew
-claws to a point three or four inches above the knee. Skin around the
-knee and the shin, unjointing the knee at the lowest articulation, and
-skin clear down to the hoof. The brisket and forearms should not be
-skinned until the carcass is hung up. Cut across the cord over the
-hind shin to release the foot. Split the skin from the dew claws to
-the hocks, and up the rear part of the thigh to a point four or six
-inches back of the cod or udder. Skin the hock and the shin, removing
-the leg at the lowest joint of the hock. In splitting the skin over
-the hock, the knife should be turned down flat with the edge pointing
-outward to avoid gashing the flesh. While the carcass is stretched
-flat, it is well to skin down over the rear of the lower thigh, but no
-attempt should be made to skin the outside of the thigh until the hind
-quarters are raised. After the legs are skinned, split the skin over
-the midline from the breast to the rectum.</p>
-
-<p>Begin at the flanks and skin along the midline until the side is
-nicely started. Then, with a sharp knife held nearly flat against the
-surface, and the hide stretched tightly, remove the skin down over the
-sides with steady, downward strokes of the knife. It is important that
-the skin be stretched tight with no wrinkles in it. Care should be
-taken to leave the covering of muscle over the abdomen on the carcass.
-Its presence on the hide is not entirely objectionable, but the
-carcass looks better and keeps better with it on. In “siding” a beef,
-it is customary to go down nearly to the backbone, leaving the skin
-attached at the thighs and at the shoulders. Skin over the buttock and
-as far down the rump as possible. Care should be taken at all times to
-avoid cutting into the flesh, or tearing the membranes covering it. If
-the meat is to be kept fresh for any length of time, mould will form
-in such cut places and will be hard to clean off. A coarse cloth and a
-pail of hot water should be handy while skinning, and all blood spots
-should be wiped from the surface. The cloth should be wrung nearly dry
-for this purpose, and the less water used the better.</p>
-
-<p>Open the carcass at the belly with a knife and pull the small
-intestines out to one side. Open the brisket and pelvis with a saw or
-sharp ax. Raise the windpipe and the gullet and cut loose the pleura
-and diaphragm along the lower part of the cavity. The carcass is now
-ready to raise. Make an opening with a knife between the large tendon
-and the bone just above the hocks. Insert the ends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">{18}</span> of a single tree in
-the openings thus made. Hook one end of a block and tackle in the ring
-in the center of the single tree and hoist until the hind quarters
-clear the ground several inches. A gambrel, similar to the one used in
-hanging up a hog carcass, though larger and stronger, may be used
-instead of a single tree.</p>
-
-<p>While the carcass is in this position, loosen the rectum and small
-intestines and allow them to drop down over the paunch. The fat lining
-the pelvis and the kidney fat should not be disturbed or mutilated.
-The intestines are attached to the liver, from which they may be
-separated with a knife. The paunch is attached to the back at the left
-side. It should be pressed down with sufficient force to tear it
-loose. Let it roll out on to the ground or floor, and cut off or draw
-out the gullet. Raise the carcass a little higher and take out the
-liver, first removing the gall bladder. Remove the diaphragm, lungs,
-and heart, and finish skinning over the shoulders, arms and neck. Wipe
-off all blood and dirt with a cloth. Split the carcass into halves
-with a saw, a cleaver, or a sharp ax. Wash out the inside of the chest
-cavity with warm water, and wipe it dry. Trim off all bloody veins or
-any scraggy pieces of the neck, and leave the beef to cool before
-cutting it into quarters.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_29">§ 29. Treatment of Hides</h3>
-
-<p>The skins of cattle represent considerable value if properly treated.
-To save them in the north where cold weather prevails during the
-butchering season is not difficult, as they can be rolled up and kept
-frozen until disposed of. However, in the warm seasons, they should be
-spread out flat, hair side down, the legs, flanks, etc. stretched, and
-all parts rubbed thoroughly with salt. Particular pains should be
-taken to treat the entire surface of the skin. If more than one skin
-is to be salted, they should be salted one at a time and should be
-spread one on top of the other, with the hair sides together, and the
-skin sides together. Where only one hide is handled, the legs and head
-should be folded in and the hide rolled up. Enough salt should be used
-to cure the hide thoroughly if it is to be kept for any length of
-time. Ten to twelve pounds of salt will be sufficient for an ordinary
-hide.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">{19}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="KADS">Killing and Dressing Sheep</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Much of the sheepy flavor of mutton comes from the generation of
-gases in the stomach after the sheep is killed. For this reason, the
-sheep should always be dressed as rapidly as possible. A platform
-about eighteen inches high is convenient to work on and aids in
-keeping the blood away from the body, insuring a cleaner carcass. A
-clean, dry place is necessary for neat work. Water or blood on the
-wool makes it very difficult to dress the animal nicely.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_30">§ 30. Stunning and Bleeding</h3>
-
-<p>If the sheep is an old one, it may be stunned before bleeding. If a
-young one, the same purpose is served by dislocating the neck. This is
-accomplished by putting one hand on top of the head or poll and the
-other hand under the chin and giving a sharp twist upward. Then lay
-the sheep on its side on the platform, with its head hanging over one
-end. Grasp the chin in the left hand and stick a knife through the
-neck just back of the lower jaw. The cutting edge of the knife should
-be turned to the spinal column and the cut be made through the flesh
-to the bone. In this way it is possible to sever the blood vessels
-without cutting the windpipe.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_31">§ 31. Skinning</h3>
-
-<p>Split the skin over the back of the front legs from the dew claws to a
-little above the knees. Open the skin over the windpipe from brisket
-to chin, starting it slightly on the sides of the neck. Split the skin
-over the back of the hind legs to midline, and skin the buttock. The
-skin should also be raised over the cod and flanks. Skin around the
-hocks and down to the hoofs, cutting off the hind feet at the toe
-joints. No attempt should be made to skin the legs above the hocks
-until after the carcass is hung up. Hang the sheep up by the hind legs
-and split the skin over the midline. Start at the brisket and “fist
-off” the skin. This is done by grasping the edge of the pelt firmly in
-one hand, pulling it up tight and working the other close between the
-pelt and the body. The “fisting off” should be downward over the fore
-quarter and upward and backward over the hind quarters and legs. It is
-unwise to pull down on the skin over the hind legs, as the membrane
-covering the flesh is sure to be ruptured and an unsightly appearance
-given to the carcass. The wool should always be held away from the
-flesh for the sake of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">{20}</span> cleanliness. The skin on the legs should be
-pulled away from the body, rather than toward it, in order to preserve
-the covering of the meat. When the pelt has been loosened over the
-sides and back, it should be stripped down over the neck and cut off
-close to the ears. The head may then be removed without being skinned
-by cutting through the atlas joint.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_32">§ 32. Gutting</h3>
-
-<p>Begin removing the entrails by cutting around the rectum and allowing
-it to drop down the inside of the carcass. Do not split the pelvis.
-Open down the belly line from the cod to the breastbone, and take out
-the paunch and the intestines, leaving the liver attached to the
-diaphragm. The heart, lungs and diaphragm may either be removed or
-allowed to remain in the carcass. Reach up into the pelvis and pull
-out the bladder. Wipe all blood and dirt from the carcass with a
-coarse cloth wrung nearly dry from hot water. Double up the front legs
-and slip over the ankle joint the little cord which is found by
-cutting into the fleshy part of the forearm.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="BADP">Bleeding and Dressing Poultry</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_33">§ 33. Bleeding and Picking</h3>
-
-<p>When only a few chickens are to be dressed, the simplest way of
-bleeding is to chop off the head with an ax or cleaver. They should be
-scalded at once and picked. Scalding causes the muscles at the base of
-the feathers to relax, so the feathers come out easily. After picking,
-the skin can be made firm by plunging the bird in cold water. The crop
-and intestines should be removed as soon as the skin is cooled.</p>
-
-<p>If the bird is to be dry picked, it should be bled by cutting the
-blood vessels in the head and puncturing the brain. For this
-purpose, a scalpel or a small knife, is used. The instrument must be
-pointed and very sharp. The bird is grasped by the head with the
-left hand, and with the right hand the scalpel is thrust upward
-inside the mouth at the back of the throat. If done properly, the
-bird will bleed almost as fast as when the entire head is removed.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">{21}</span> The
-knife should be thrust clear through to the brain so the bird
-will be stunned. Stunning the bird in this way has the same effect
-as scalding, in that it causes the muscles at the base of the
-feathers to relax so that the feathers can be easily plucked out. If
-the bird is not stunned, the feathers will not pull out so readily.
-The bird should be hung up by the feet and picked immediately,
-before the body gets cold and the feathers set. A few at a time
-should be grasped between the thumb and first finger, and the pull
-should be upward and backward, in the direction which the feathers
-naturally lie.</p>
-
-<p>Turkeys, geese and ducks are usually bled and dry picked. Immediately
-after bleeding they should be suspended from a hook and picked, in the
-same way that a fowl is dry picked.</p>
-
-<p>Owing to the thickness of the feathers on ducks and geese, dry picking
-with them is usually a slower process than with other birds. After
-bleeding, a cloth should be wrapped around the head to catch the
-blood, so that the feathers will not become bloody. The goose or duck
-should then be laid on a board on the top of an open barrel or jar,
-and the feathers dropped into the vessel as they are picked. The
-coarse wing feathers should be kept separate from the softer feathers.
-When the feathers have been removed the short down may removed by
-singeing with a gasoline or alcohol flame. A hot flame should not be
-used, as it will give an oily appearance to the skin.</p>
-
-<p>When it is not desired to save the feathers, quicker work may be done
-by scalding the birds and wrapping them for a few minutes in a sack or
-blanket to steam. Since there is danger of their being steamed too
-much, they should be closely watched, and, as soon as the feathers
-come out readily, they are ready to be picked, singed, and then cooled
-by plunging into cold water. The sudden cooling hardens the skin.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">{22}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="KMF">Keeping Meat Fresh</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>In the sub-tropical climate of Canton, it is difficult to keep meat
-fresh for any length of time without the use of ice. With a room
-temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit and above, meat will keep fresh
-but a few hours. If placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of
-from 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it will keep fresh for a week to ten
-days. Dry air should circulate freely through the refrigerator.
-Moisture in the refrigerator tends to develop mould, which is apt to
-cause decomposition of the meat. A little decay will soon contaminate
-a large amount of meat.</p>
-
-<p>In the north, meat may be kept fresh during the cold season by
-freezing it solid. The carcass may be cut into quarters or smaller
-pieces and hung in an open outbuilding where it will freeze solid, and
-remain frozen until the weather begins to warm up in the spring.
-Whenever a piece is wanted it can be removed with a saw. Rapid thawing
-of frozen meat greatly injures its flavor. If the meat is thawed out
-slowly in a cold room, the flavor of the meat will not be injured.
-Meat can be kept frozen for months if kept in cold room, or in a
-refrigerator with a temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and with
-proper ventilation provided.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CMAM">Curing Meats: American Methods</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_34">§ 34. Preparing the Meat for Curing</h3>
-
-<p>Meat should be thoroughly cooled before it is cured, or it will spoil.
-The proper time to begin curing is when the meat is cooled and still
-fresh. Twenty to thirty hours after killing is the proper time to
-begin the cure. If salted before the animal heat has left it, the
-shrinkage of muscles causes a retention of gases, and gives an
-offensive odor to the meat. The meat should not be frozen, as the cure
-will not penetrate such meat evenly, and an uneven curing will result.
-Tainted meat may be cured so that it will keep, but no system of
-curing will bring back the natural flavor of the meat, if it is once
-lost.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_23">{23}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_35">§ 35. Vessels for Curing</h3>
-
-<p>Vitrified clay jars, with straight sides, similar to the jars used for
-fermenting beans in making soy bean sauce, are the best vessels for
-containing the meat. These jars, large enough to hold conveniently the
-hams, shoulders, and sides of two hogs, are best for curing meat for
-the first time, and the meat can be watched and cared for better in
-small jars than in large jars containing more meat. In America, where
-such jars are expensive, it is the custom to use a clean, hardwood
-barrel for the purpose. One that has been used for syrup or molasses
-is best. If a kerosene or tar barrel is used, it should be first
-thoroughly burned out, and used as a water barrel for some time before
-it is used for meat. Vitrified clay jars are preferred to wooden
-barrels as they are cleaned more readily. If meat has once spoiled in
-a wooden barrel, the vessel should not be used again for containing
-meat. Vessels that are used repeatedly for curing meat should be
-scalded thoroughly each time before packing with fresh meat.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_36">§ 36. Curing Agents</h3>
-
-<p>Salt, saltpeter, sugar or molasses, and a variety of spices are the
-principal preservatives used in curing meat. Borax, formalin,
-salicylic acid, and other chemicals are sometimes used. However, as
-they are considered by many authorities to be injurious to the health,
-their use should be avoided. Baking soda is used in wet pickles to
-check the growth of mould.</p>
-
-<p>When salt alone is applied to meat, it draws out the meat juices and
-contracts the muscle fibers, making the meat very hard and dry. The
-action of the sugar or the molasses is to soften the muscle fibers and
-improve the texture and flavor of the meat, hence the combination of
-sugar and salt make a good cure. Saltpeter is used to preserve the
-natural red color of the meat. It should be used in small quantities
-only, as it is very astringent, and, if used in large quantities is
-apt to be injurious to the health.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="WADCC">Wet and Dry Cures Compared</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>A wet cure is more convenient than a dry cure. It is less trouble to
-pack the meat in a jar or barrel and pour on the prepared wet pickle
-than it is to go over the meat three or four times and rub in the
-spices. The brine method also gives protection from insects. However,
-in warm weather, the brine has to be watched very closely, and, if
-mould forms on the surface of the pickle, it should be removed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">{24}</span> every
-day or two. The brine also needs to be recooked every week or ten days
-in warm weather to prevent undesirable bacteria from growing in it. A
-cool, dry room is the best for either brine or dry curing. In a dry
-atmosphere below 60 degrees Fahrenheit there is very little danger of
-the meat becoming sour, although a temperature below 40 degrees is
-better.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="RFCM">Recipes for Curing Meats</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_37">§ 37. Corned Beef</h3>
-
-<p>Any piece of beef can be used for corning, but the cheaper cuts are
-the parts generally used for this purpose. The plate, rump, and parts
-of the chuck are generally used, although the ribs, loin, and round
-may also be used. The pieces for corning should be cut into pieces of
-convenient size, say four or five inches square. If they are cut much
-larger, they well not cure very well as the pickle will not work in
-soon enough. They should be cut as nearly the same size as is possible
-so they will pack in even layers in the barrel or jar.</p>
-
-<p>When as the meat is thoroughly cooled, it should be corned as quickly
-as possible. Weigh the meat and allow 10 pounds of salt for each 100
-pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of salt a half inch deep over the
-bottom of the jar in which the meat is to be placed. Rub each piece of
-meat with good, clean salt. Pack each layer of meat closely in the
-bottom of the jar, and sprinkle a layer of salt one-fourth to one-half
-inch deep on each layer of meat before the following layer of meat is
-placed in the jar, and cover the top layer of meat with a good layer
-of salt. After it has stood over night, cover with a brine made as
-follows: for each one hundred pounds of meat, use four pounds of
-sugar, six ounces baking soda, and eight ounces of saltpeter. Dissolve
-in a gallon of water that has been boiled and cooled until it is
-tepid. Three gallons more of boiled, tepid water should then be added.
-Meat from fat animals makes choicer corned beef than that from poor
-animals. Under no circumstances should meat be corned while it is
-frozen.</p>
-
-<p>In case of more or less than one hundred pounds of meat to be corned,
-make the brine in the proportion given. The meat should be weighted
-down with a board and stone so that all the meat is well beneath the
-surface of the brine. In case any of the meat projects above the
-surface, decay will commence in a short time.</p>
-
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">{25}</span>
-
-<p>It is best to cook the brine, or the water used in making the
-brine solution. If the weather is warm, the brine is apt to get sour
-and ropy. In that case, wash each piece of meat in cold water,
-scald the vessel and repack in a new brine. If the brine is reboiled
-every few days before it gets ropy, it is not necessary to make new
-brine so frequently. To test the brine for freshness, dip the fingers
-into it, and if it does not drip freely from the fingers, but appears
-stringy or ropy, it should be turned off, the meat washed, and new
-brine added. In the spring of the year, the brine should be watched
-closely, as it is more likely to spoil at that time than during the cold
-winter months. If kept in a cool place, with a uniform temperature
-of below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and above freezing, there should be
-little trouble from this source. To secure thorough corning, the
-meat should be kept in the brine for twenty-eight to forty days, the
-exact length of time depending on the size of the pieces of meat and
-on the weather.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_38">§ 38. Dried Beef</h3>
-
-<p>The round and shoulders are the parts most commonly used for dried
-beef. The pieces should be cut with the grain, so that the muscle
-fibers will be cut crosswise when the dried beef is sliced for table
-use. It should be cut in about the same sizes as for corned beef, and
-packed in vessels in the same manner. The pickle should be made as
-follows: for each one hundred pounds of meat, weigh out six pounds
-table salt, three pounds of granulated sugar, and two ounces of
-saltpeter. Mix these pieces thoroughly. Before the meat is placed in
-the jar, each piece should be well rubbed with the spice mixture.
-Dissolve the remainder of the spices in four gallons of boiled water
-that has been allowed to cool. Pour this pickle solution over the meat
-in the jar until it is completely covered. Weight the meat down, as in
-the case with corned beef. The pickle solution should be watched and,
-in the case of tendency to become ropy, should be handled as in
-corning beef.</p>
-
-<p>After ten days, the meat should be removed from the pickle and hung up
-in an airy out-house to drip and dry. When dry, which should be in
-about 24 hours, it can be smoked, as in the case of smoking ham. The
-drier the climate, the more easily can the meat be dried and smoked.
-It is difficult to dry and smoke meat in the Canton region unless done
-in December and January, before the rains begin.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_26">{26}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_39">§ 39. Plain Salt Pork</h3>
-
-<p>Rub each piece of meat with fine common salt and pack closely in a
-barrel. Let stand over night. The next day, weigh out twelve pounds of
-salt and three ounces of saltpeter to each one hundred pounds of meat,
-and dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. When cold, pour this
-pickle over the meat, cover and weight down to keep the meat under the
-brine. The meat will pack best if cut into pieces about six inches
-square.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_40">§ 40. Dry Cured Pork</h3>
-
-<p>For each one hundred pounds of meat, weigh cut eight pounds of salt,
-two pounds of granulated sugar, and two ounces of saltpeter. Mix
-thoroughly, and rub the meat once every three days, using a third of
-the mixture at each rubbing. Keep the meat on a shelf, or in a vessel,
-while curing. After the last rubbing, allow the meat to remain in a
-vessel for about ten days, when it is cured and ready to smoke. To
-cure nicely, it is desirable to have a cool and rather moist place in
-which to keep it.</p>
-
-<p>This recipe should not be used where the meat must be kept in a warm
-dry place, as the preservatives will not penetrate easily and
-uniformly under such conditions.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_41">§ 41. Sugar Cured Pork</h3>
-
-<p>Rub each piece with salt and allow to remain over night. A wet pickle,
-or brine, may also be forced into the hams and shoulders close to the
-bone with a special pump, using from 5 to 10 ounces of the pickle or
-brine for each piece, the amount depending on the size of the piece.
-The following morning pack in a vessel with the hams and shoulders at
-the bottom and the bacon on the top. For each one hundred pounds of
-meat, weigh out eight pounds of salt, two pounds of brown sugar, two
-ounces of saltpeter, and one-half pound baking soda. Dissolve all in
-four gallons of water, and cover the meat with this wet pickle. In
-warm weather, the pickle should be boiled and thoroughly cooled before
-using. A board and stone should be used to weight down the meat. Bacon
-strips should remain in the pickle from three to four weeks, and the
-hams and shoulders five to seven weeks, depending on their size. If
-desired, the meat may then be smoked. Before being smoked meat should
-be soaked for several hours in clean water at about 80 degrees
-Fahrenheit to remove<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">{27}</span> the excess salt on the surface of the meat and
-thus make the meat more palatable. In soaking the meat about one-half
-pint of water should be used for each pound of meat.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> The Canton
-Christian College has had very good success with this cure.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_42">§ 42. Pork Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Pork sausage should be made from clean, fresh pork only. The parts
-generally used are the shoulder, neck, and lean meat trimmings. About
-three pounds of lean meat should be used to one pound of fat meat. Mix
-the fat and lean meat together in chopping. With some cutters it is
-necessary to run the meat through twice in order to make it fine
-enough and to mix thoroughly the lean with the fat meat. After it has
-been cut the first time, spread thinly and season. For each 100 pounds
-of meat, use one and one-half pounds of pure, fine salt, four ounces
-of ground black pepper, and two pounds of pure leaf sage, rubbed fine.
-The seasoning should be sprinkled over the meat, and the meat again
-run through the cutter, in order to mix the spice thoroughly with the
-meat. For immediate use, the sausage may be packed away in jars. It
-may be kept for some time in a jar if melted lard is poured over the
-top, so as to exclude the air. The sausage may also be stuffed into
-muslin bags about two inches in diameter. If the stuffed bags are
-coated with paraffin, they will keep for some time.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_43">§ 43. Mixed Meat Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Mixed sausage may be made from a mixture of pork and beef in almost
-any proportion. Sausage should not contain too much fat. A good
-proportion is two pounds of lean pork, one pound of fat pork, and one
-pound of lean beef.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_44">§ 44. Bologna Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>To each ten pounds of lean beef, use one pound of fat pork or bacon.
-Chop finely and season with three ounces of salt, two ounces pepper,
-and a little ground coriander. Stuff casing, and tie every ten or
-twelve inches. Hang the stuffed casings straight. Smoke for ten or
-twelve hours. Cook in boiling water until the sausage floats. Dry on
-clean hay or straw in the sun and hang away in a cool place until
-wanted.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_28">{28}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_45">§ 45. Blood Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Blood sausage is made with the following ingredients: 25 pounds of
-cured pork or shoulder fat, seven pounds cured fat skins, six pounds
-of blood, one-half pound onions, one pound salt, one-half ounce white
-pepper, one ounce sweet marjoram, and one-half ounce cloves.</p>
-
-<p>Cook the fat for one hour and the skins two hours at a temperature of
-200° Fahrenheit. When cooked, put through a grinder, grinding quite
-fine. Then add the blood and seasoning and mix thoroughly. Stuff into
-large beef casings and boil in the same water in which meat was cooked
-until the sausage floats. Then dip the sausage in cold water and hang
-up to cool.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_46">§ 46. Smoked or Country Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>The following ingredients are used in making smoked or country
-sausage: 85 pounds lean pork, 15 pounds beef, one and one-half to two
-pounds salt, four ounces black pepper, and one ounce sweet marjoram.</p>
-
-<p>Cut the meat into small pieces and sprinkle seasoning over it. Then
-grind finely. Put away in a cool place for twenty-four to thirty-six
-hours, then add a little water, and stuff into hog casings and smoke
-in a very cool smoke until a dark mahogany is obtained.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_47">§ 47. Frankfort or Vienna Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>This popular sausage is made with the following ingredients: 70 pounds
-beef, 30 pounds fat pork, 20 pounds water, one and one-half to two
-pounds salt, two ounces red pepper.</p>
-
-<p>Cut the beef into small pieces, salt, and allow it to cure for
-forty-eight hours in a cool room. Cut the pork into small pieces and
-put the beef and pork through a grinder together. Put into a vessel
-and add the water and spices. After it is all mixed, put it through a
-grinder again and grind fine. Stuff into sheep casings. Then, by means
-of the forefinger and thumb, press the stuffed casing together about
-four inches from one end, and give this first link two or three
-twists. Do the same about every four inches, twisting each succeeding
-link in the opposite direction from the preceding link, in order to
-prevent untwisting. Then hang in a smoke house for about two hours at
-a temperature not to exceed 125° Fahrenheit. After smoking, boil for
-five or ten minutes, then plunge into cold water and hang in a cool
-place.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_29">{29}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_48">§ 48. Liver Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Odds and ends, resulting from trimming up the various cuts
-of the hog carcass, as well as the liver itself, can be used in making
-liver sausage. If the head is used, it should first be cleaned, as for
-headcheese. The jowl, which is practically all fat, may be cut off
-and made into salt pork, or used for rendering lard. The remainder
-of the head meat, trimmings, liver cut into slices, and some beef or
-veal, if such meat can be had, should be boiled. Skin that is free
-from hair, and from which the fat has been removed, is also sometimes
-used. The skin will cook before the meat, so it should be
-put in a cloth sack and removed when thoroughly cooked. Liver
-cooks in a very short time, and should be removed before the rest of
-the meat. The meat should cook until it readily falls from the
-bones. All the meat should then be ground in a meat grinder. For
-40 pounds of meat, use one and one-half pounds salt, three ounces
-sweet marjoram, one ounce allspice, one ounce black pepper, and
-about one gallon broth in which the meat was cooked. Garlic or
-onions can be added, if desired. The seasoning should be well worked
-into the meat. It can then be put into jars, covered with paraffin,
-or stuffed into beef casings or rounds. When stuffed into casings
-or rounds, it should be cooked in the same water the meat was
-cooked in until it floats. Then it should be placed in cold water
-until the sausage is thoroughly cooled.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_49">§ 49. Summer Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Summer sausage is made with the following ingredients: 25 pounds cured
-beef free from sinews, 15 pounds pork trimmings, four to six ounces
-white pepper, one ounce whole black pepper, and one ounce whole
-mustard seed.</p>
-
-<p>This sausage can be made in cold weather only. All the meat is put
-through the grinder, and spices added. No salt is needed as the cured
-beef is salty enough. Mix it all thoroughly until it is evenly
-seasoned. Spread it out in a cool place for thirty-six to forty hours.
-Then stuff into hog casings and let it hang over night. Smoke with
-cold smoke for several days. If kept in a dry place, it can be kept
-the year round. It if gets moldy, simply wipe off the mold before using.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_30">{30}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_50">§ 50. Headcheese</h3>
-
-<p>The head of the hog, and trimmings, are used for making headcheese.
-The head should be shaved clean and nostrils cut off just in front of
-the eyes. Cut out the eyes and ear drums. The fattest part of the head
-is generally used for lard. Clean the head by soaking it in water for
-some time to extract all blood and dirt. After the head is thoroughly
-cleaned, cover with water and boil until the meat separates from the
-bones. Lungs and heart may be cooked with the head. When it is
-thoroughly cooked, take out the meat, saving the liquor for future
-use. Chop the meat finely. Season with one and one-half pounds salt,
-three ounces black pepper, four ounces allspice, and four ounces
-ground cloves, together with two gallons of the liquor for every 50
-pounds of meat. The mixing should be done thoroughly, so that proper
-seasoning is secured. Stuff the meat into large beef casings
-thoroughly cleaned, hog stomach, or muslin bags about three or four
-inches in diameter. After stuffing into casings, it should be boiled
-until it floats on the top, then place in cold water for a short time.
-Store away in a clean, cool place on a shelf or table. If there are no
-casings or muslin available in which to stuff the meat, it can be kept
-in shallow pans.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_51">§ 51. Scrapple</h3>
-
-<p>The head and feet of hogs are generally used in making scrapple, but
-scrapple can be made from any hog meat. The heads should be split
-through the middle and placed in a kettle with sufficient water to
-cover them. They should be cooked until the meat falls from the bones.
-Drain off the broth. Separate the bones from the meat, then chop the
-meat fine and add it to the broth, and boil. Corn meal should be added
-until it is as thick as mush. Add the corn meal slowly and stir
-vigorously, so as to avoid lumpiness. Stir the mixture well for ten or
-fifteen minutes, and allow it to boil one hour. Pour the scrapple into
-shallow pans or molds. When cold, it should be sliced and fried.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_52">§ 52. Snow Packing</h3>
-
-<p>Snow packing is a method that can be used only in localities where
-snow and continued dry cold weather prevails during the winter months.
-The carcass should be cut into steaks, roasts, and boiling pieces. All
-trimmings for the table should be made before freezing the meat. Lay
-the pieces out to freeze. Be sure they freeze solid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">{31}</span> to the center. In
-the bottom of a box large enough to hold all the meat, pack a layer of
-snow. Put in a larger of the frozen meat, packing in such a way that
-the pieces do not touch each other. Cover with a layer of snow, and
-continue with alternate layers of meat and snow. Set the box in a room
-where it will not be subject to changes in temperature. For
-convenience, it is well to pack the steaks in one section or end of
-the box, and the roasts and stews in another. The meat will then be
-but little disturbed when a supply is taken from the box. Only snow
-should be used in packing. Be sure the meat is frozen solid before
-packing, and it will keep through the winter, unless the weather gets
-very warm. In preparing the meat for the table, it should not be
-thawed out too rapidly.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_53">§ 53. Partial Cooking</h3>
-
-<p>Partial cooking and packing in jars is a method of preserving meat
-which is sometimes used on the farm. It has the advantage over snow
-packing in that it can be done in warm weather and is a most
-satisfactory way of keeping fresh pork. However, it requires
-considerably more work than other methods of preserving meat.</p>
-
-<p>The loin and side meat, or any part of the carcass, may be used. Cut
-into slices about one-half inch thick, and fry until a little more
-than half done. Pack the slices in a jar and cover with hot lard. As
-the meat is wanted, it can be removed from the jar and warmed up. If
-the jar is to stand any length of time without using, after it has
-been opened, it is best again to cover the top with lard. It is better
-to use several small jars than one large one. They should be kept in a
-cool, dark room to insure safe-keeping of the meat.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_54">§ 54. Rendering Lard</h3>
-
-<p>The leaf lard, fat back, and fat trimmings from the hams, shoulders
-and neck make good lard. Intestinal fat should never be mixed with the
-other fat parts, as it makes a strong smelling lard of an inferior
-grade, but should be rendered by itself. By thorough washing and
-soaking in cold water for several hours, part of the offensive odor
-will leave it.</p>
-
-<p>First of all, remove the skin from the fat trimmings. To do this,
-place the meat on a table, skin side down, and cut the fat from the
-skin, using a strong knife. When a piece of skin large enough<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">{32}</span> to grasp
-is freed from the fat, take it in the left hand, and, with the right
-hand, insert the knife between the skin and fat. Pull the skin and cut
-with the knife slightly slanted downward. With a little practice, the
-fat can be cleanly removed from the skin in this way with one clean
-cut of the knife. The strips of fat should then be cut into cubes of
-one to one and one-half inches, making them about equal in size so
-they will try out evenly.</p>
-
-<p>Pour into the kettle about a quart of water or melted lard, and then
-fill it nearly full with the cubes of fat meat. The fat will then heat
-properly and the lard will be brought out without burning. Keep a
-moderate fire until the cracklings are brown and light enough to
-float. Frequent stirring is necessary to prevent burning. When done,
-remove from the fire and allow to cool slightly. Then strain through a
-muslin cloth into a jar. Stir it occasionally, until it is cool enough
-to begin to solidify. Stirring while it is cooling tends to whiten the
-lard and make it smoother. A quarter of a pound of saleratus added to
-each one hundred pounds of fat has a like effect.</p>
-
-<p>When removing lard from a container for use, take it evenly from the
-surface. Do not dig down into the center of the lard, for when this is
-done, it will leave a coating of lard around the sides of the
-container which will become rancid very quickly by the action of
-bacteria in the air.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_55">§ 55. Smoked Meats</h3>
-
-<p>The process of smoking helps to preserve meat, and, if smoked
-properly, and with the right kind of fuel, adds a desirable flavor to
-meat. The creosote formed by the combustion of the wood closes the
-pores to some extent, and excludes the air. This also helps to keep
-out the insects.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_56">§ 56. The Smokehouse</h3>
-
-<p>The size of smokehouse to build depends on the amount of meat that is
-to be smoked. In a house eight feet square and ten feet high, the
-hams, sides, and shoulders of three to five hogs can be smoked at one
-time. Ventilation should be provided to carry off the warm air in
-order to prevent overheating the meat. A chimney, made by placing a
-six inch tile in the roof, makes a good ventilator. The smoke house
-walls may be built of lumber, brick, or concrete.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">{33}</span> Lumber would be the
-cheapest, but least permanent, and concrete the most costly. Brick is
-no doubt the most satisfactory material for a small smoke house in
-southern China. Mud bricks may be used, but burnt clay bricks are more
-lasting. The roof should be made of tile. The best material for the
-floor is large square tiles, called in Chinese <i>taai ch’uen</i> (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">大磚</span>).
-Concrete or brick may also be used, but would be more expensive then
-<i>taai ch’uen</i>.</p>
-
-<p>A good arrangement is to have the fire box outside the smoke house,
-with a flue to carry the smoke into the smoke house. When this cannot
-well be arranged, a fire may be built on the floor of the house, and
-the meat shielded from heavy smoke by a sheet of tin, about four feet
-square, placed over the fire between the fire and the meat, about
-three feet above the floor.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_57">§ 57. The Fuel</h3>
-
-<p>Lychee, or any other hard wood, makes good fuel for smoking meat.
-Resinous woods, such as pines and cedars, should never be used as they
-give an objectionable flavor to the meat due to turpentine which they
-contain.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_58">§ 58. Preparing Meat for Smoking</h3>
-
-<p>Meat that is to be smoked should be removed from the brine and
-thoroughly washed in tepid water in order to clean off the coat of
-pickle that has formed on the surface of the meat. It can then he hung
-up in the smokehouse, but should be allowed to drain for a day or two
-before the fire is started. The pieces of meat should be hung so that
-the air can pass freely between them.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_59">§ 59. The Fire</h3>
-
-<p>For the first day or two, the fire should be slow, in order that the
-warming of the meat may be gradual. In clear, dry weather, smoking may
-continue from the day the smoking begins until it is completed, which
-should be in one to three weeks, the length of time depending on the
-size of the pieces of meat and on the weather. When sufficiently
-smoked, the meat will have a characteristic straw color. Meat should
-never be smoked on a damp day, because in a damp atmosphere moisture
-will condense on the meat, and moist meat will not smoke well. Light
-smoking for two weeks is better than heavy smoking for one week. With
-a longer period of smoking the smoke will enter the meat more
-thoroughly.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_34">{34}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_60">§ 60. Keeping Smoked Meats</h3>
-
-<p>During cool weather smoked meats may be left in the smokehouse for
-some time after the smoking process is completed. The house should be
-kept dark in order to keep out flies, and it should be well ventilated
-so as to prevent dampness. A dry, cool cellar, with free circulation
-of fresh air, will be a satisfactory place for keeping smoked meats.</p>
-
-<p>If the smoked meat is to be kept only a short time, it needs only to
-be hung up without covering. For longer keeping, it is well to wrap
-first in paper, and then in burlap, canvass or muslin, and bury the
-meat in a grain bin or box of sand. The object of this is to provide a
-condition which will be uniform in temperature and keep out insects.</p>
-
-<p>A coat of ground pepper, rubbed into the meat before wrapping, will be
-distasteful to insects.</p>
-
-<p>After smoked meat has become thoroughly dry, it may be wrapped in
-parchment paper and enclosed in a heavy muslin or canvass, which
-should be covered with yellow wash or ordinary lime white wash with
-glue added.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_61">§ 61. Recipe for Yellow Wash</h3>
-
-<p>For one hundred pounds hams or bacon, take: three pounds barytes
-(barium sulphate), .06 pound glue, .80 pound chrome yellow (lead
-chromate), .40 pound flour, and twelve pounds water.</p>
-
-<p>Put the flour in the water, dissolving all lumps thoroughly. Dissolve
-the chrome in a quart of water in a separate vessel, and add the
-solution and the glue to the flour and water. Bring the whole to a
-boil, and add the barytes slowly, stirring constantly. Make the wash
-the day before it is required. Stir it frequently when using, and
-apply with a brush.</p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">{35}</span>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CMR">Chinese Meat Recipes</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_62">§ 62. Bean Sauce Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Laap Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊腸</span>).</span></h3>
-
-<p>Sausage is a very popular meat with the Chinese, especially during the
-winter season. It is probably the most widely used of all cured meats,
-although as a rule it is quite expensive compared with other meats.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_63">§ 63. Pickle for Bean Sauce Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>For every catty of meat, use:</p>
-
-<ul class="index">
-<li>Saltpeter (<i>siu</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">硝</span>) 1 mace<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> (<i>ts’in</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">一錢</span>)</li>
-<li>Salt (<i>shuk im</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">熟鹽</span>) 3 mace (<i>ts’in</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">三錢</span>)</li>
-<li>Sugar (<i>ping fa t’ong</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">冰花糖</span>) 2 mace (<i>ts’in</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">二錢</span>)</li>
-<li>First-drawn bean sauce (<i>t’au ch’au yau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">頭抽油</span>) 2 mace</li>
-<li>Raw bean sauce (<i>shang ch’au yau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">生抽油</span>) 1 mace</li>
-<li>Mixture of spices (<i>ng heung fan</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">五香粉</span>) 1 mace</li>
-</ul>
-
-<p>The mixture of spices is made up of the following:</p>
-
-<ul class="index">
-<li>Red pepper (<i>ch’un tsiu</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">春椒</span>) 10 mace</li>
-<li>Ground anise seed (<i>taai wui</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">大回</span>) 10 mace</li>
-<li>Cloves (<i>ting heung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">丁香</span>) 10 mace</li>
-<li>Cinnamon (<i>yuk kwai</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">玉桂</span>) 10 mace</li>
-</ul>
-
-<p>These spices should be purchased separately and never ready mixed, as
-ready made mixtures are often worthless.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes two orange peelings, finely cut or ground, fresh or dried
-are used for every ten catties of meat. Two mace of double distilled
-wine (<i>sheung ching tsau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">雙蒸酒</span>), or treble distilled wine (<i>saam ching
-tsau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">三蒸酒</span>), and a wine called (<i>fan tsau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">汾酒</span>), are sometimes added
-for each catty of meat. The wine helps preserve the meat.</p>
-
-<p>The above spices should be carefully mixed and the mixture thoroughly
-stirred into the meat. In mixing the spices the usual method is to use
-the hands as mixers. A better way is to use a large spoon, or some
-similar utensil.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_36">{36}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_64">§ 64. Preparation of the Meat for Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Use hams, shoulders, chops, fat back, and neck. Sometimes the liver is
-added to give a dark color. No belly meat or tough parts should be
-used. Separate the lean from the fat meat. Chop into pieces about
-one-quarter inch in diameter, or run through a sausage mill. One part
-fat and one part lean meat is generally used, though the proportion
-may vary either way, to suit the taste and demand.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_65">§ 65. Sausage Casing <span class="normcap">(<i>Ch’eung I</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腸衣</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Sausage casing is generally made from the middle coat of the small
-intestines of sheep although it is also made from the intestines of
-the hog. The casing is very thin and transparent. Some casing is
-prepared in Canton, but most of what is used in Canton comes from
-Shanghai, as there are comparatively few sheep or goats slaughtered in
-Canton. The dried casing sells for $3.00 to $6.00 a catty.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_66">§ 66. Softening the Casing</h3>
-
-<p>When ready to be used, the casing should be immersed in luke warm
-water for a few minutes to soften it. If the walls of the casing
-adhere to each other so that it is difficult for the meat to enter,
-water should be forced through to distend the casing.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_67">§ 67. Filling the Casing</h3>
-
-<p>Insert the small end of the filler (a tin funnel about six inches
-long) into the end of the casing. Hold the casing tightly to the
-filler with the left hand, and with the right hand force the meat
-through the filler into the casing. It is customary to use the hand
-for this, but a large wooden spoon would work just as well.</p>
-
-<p>A sausage stuffing machine can be purchased for a few dollars, and
-will do the work of stuffing in a much more satisfactory manner than
-it can be done by hand. The end of the casing is tied around a tube at
-the bottom of a jar containing the sausage meat. A disc the size and
-shape of the inside of the jar is then pressed down on the meat with a
-lever, and the meat is thus forced into the casing. Such a machine
-will do the work of five or six men, and if of the right type, can
-also be used as a lard press. If it is difficult to force the meat
-into the casing, on account of compressed air, the air should be
-allowed to escape by punching small holes in the casing with pins. The
-stuffed casing is usually tied with a string every six inches, cut
-into convenient lengths, and hung up to dry.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_37">{37}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_68">§ 68. Sunning and Drying</h3>
-
-<p>The sausage should be prepared in the morning, so that it can be hung
-up to sun by noon. If it is prepared in the afternoon, there is some
-danger of its spoiling, especially if the day is not very cold,
-because it has to be stored over night before it gets much sun.
-Sunshine and cold north wind are needed to make the best sausage. With
-five days of wind and sun, the meat becomes hard and firm. In case of
-rainy or damp weather while the sausage is being dried, it must be
-hung up in a small room and a small charcoal or wood fire kept burning
-underneath. If the sausage is not well sunned or dried, it is very
-likely to spoil, and an effort should be made to get it pretty well
-dried within five days.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_69">§ 69. Season and Weather for Making Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>The time for making sausage is when there is a dry, cold wind blowing
-from the north. Such weather usually does not occur before the middle
-of November. From this time to the middle of January is usually the
-best season. If made earlier, the weather will not be cool enough. If
-made later, the chances for sunny weather are lessened, and the meat
-is not apt to cure so well.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_70">§ 70. Lean Pork Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Shau Yuk Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">瘦肉腸</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>This sausage is made the same as ordinary sausage, except that only
-lean meat is used.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_71">§ 71. Liver Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Yun Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">潤腸</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>In this sausage, duck liver is used instead of lean meat. Otherwise,
-it is made the same as ordinary sausage.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_72">§ 72. <span class="normcap"><i>Tung Koon</i></span> Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Tung Koon Laap Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">東莞腊腸</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>This is the same as ordinary bean sauce sausage, except that large
-casings are used. It is not very popular because of its size.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_73">§ 73. Oyster Sauce Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Ho Yau Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">蠔油腸</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>This is made in the same manner as ordinary sausage, except that
-oyster sauce (<i>ho yau</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">蠔油</span>) is used instead of bean sauce in making up
-the pickle.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_38">{38}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_74">§ 74. Catsup Sausage</h3>
-
-<p>Catsup sausage is the same as ordinary sausage, except that for every
-catty of meat, three taels of catsup instead of bean sauce are used.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_75">§ 75. Roast or Baked Sausage <span class="normcap">(<i>Foh Ch’eung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">火腸</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Prepare ordinary sausage, but use large casings. Dip in honey
-solution, and bake or roast.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_76">§ 76. Cured Ham</h3>
-
-<p>An excellent cured ham is produced in Yunnan Province. This is due to
-the fact that the hogs in that region are largely of the bacon type,
-and the climate is very favorable for curing meat, being dry and
-fairly cool during the meat curing season.</p>
-
-<p>In curing ham, the Chinese use much the same method as is used in
-western countries in making dry cured ham, except that sugar is not
-used in the pickle. The pickle is made up as follows: Salt (<i>shuk im</i>
-<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">熟鹽</span>) 20 catties (<i>kan</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">卄斤</span>), Saltpeter (<i>siu</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">硝</span>) .05 tael (<span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">半錢</span>),
-mixture of spices (<i>ng heung fan</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">五香粉</span>) 2 taels (<i>leung</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">二両</span>).</p>
-
-<p>Rub each piece of meat for one-half hour. Puncture the meat with
-needles so the pickle will work in well. Rub again in two days. For
-the two days after the first rubbing with the pickle, keep under
-pressure to squeeze out the water. After the second two days, rub
-again with the pickle. Rub again after two more days. Then the meat is
-packed in salt for fifteen days, when it is taken out and the salt
-wiped off and the meat is allowed to dry and harden. Curing should
-require forty days. The flavor improves with age.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_77">§ 77. Sun Dried Pork <span class="normcap">(<i>Shau Laap Yuk</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">瘦𦡳肉</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Sun drying is a common method of curing pork in the Canton
-region. For this purpose, head, side, ham, and shoulder meat is
-used. The meat is cut in strips, about eight to ten inches long, and
-about one inch thick. It is immersed over night in a pickle which
-is the same as the one used in making sausage, and the next day
-rubbed with a mixture of honey and water (<i>mat t’ong shui</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">蜜糖水</span>),
-made up of one part honey and one part water, and hung up to dry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">{39}</span>
-in the sun for two days. Again it is soaked in the pickle for a short
-time, and dried in the sun for two days. This is done a third time.
-Then it is put in a stone jar in a cool, dry place for two days, and
-again hung up to dry for one week, when it is cured. When cured,
-the fat meat is rather firm.</p>
-
-<p>Pork can be sun dried in the Canton region between the first of
-November and the middle of January. Dry, north wind is best for
-curing. If cured later than January, it must be consumed immediately
-as it will not keep long.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_78">§ 78. Pickled Pig Feet <span class="normcap">(<i>Ch’aat T’ai</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">札蹄</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>In making pickled pig feet, the bone is first removed from the leg,
-leaving only the meat, skin and toes. Boil, and stuff with roast fat
-and lean meat to take the place of the bone. Tie up with rice straw,
-and immerse in the sausage spice for several hours.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_79">§ 79. Pickled Beef</h3>
-
-<p>Cut the beef into pieces weighing about four or five taels. Rub each
-piece thoroughly with salt. Place the meat in a jar and cover with
-salt. In one or two weeks, the meat is cured and ready to use. Soak in
-water for one-half hour before using in order to remove part of the
-salt.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_80">§ 80. Dried Rice Bird <span class="normcap">(<i>Laap Woh Fa Tseuk</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊禾花雀</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Remove the feathers, internal organs, and brain. Then treat same as in
-making sun dried pork.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_81">§ 81. Pork Stuffed Liver <span class="normcap">(<i>Kam Ngan Yun</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">金銀潤</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Use the liver of hogs. Cut into strips about one inch wide. Use wine
-and ginger for flavoring. Half dry it in the wind. It should not be
-overdried, as it will then be hard to digest. Prepare fat meat by
-cutting strips of it into such sizes that they can be inserted into
-the liver. Soak the fat meat in a solution of salt, saltpeter, and
-sugar, in proportions of 3-2-1. Finally, half dry the fat by hanging
-in the sun for several hours. With a wooden stick, make pockets in the
-strips of liver from one end to the other, and insert the strips of
-fat meat into the pockets. The strips of stuffed liver should then be
-hung up to dry for a half day.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_40">{40}</p>
-
-<h3 id="Sec_82">§ 82. Lo Mei <span class="normcap">(<i>Lo Mei</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">鹵味</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>The tongue, bladder, intestine, and liver, are used in making <i>lo mei</i>
-although any part of the carcass may be used. It is made by cooking
-the meat for ten minutes and then plunging it while still hot into
-cold water, cooking for ten minutes again, and then plunging into cold
-water. The process should be repeated at least twelve times. The
-expansion and contraction of the meat by such handling makes it very
-tender, and firm. The process of preparing this meat is called
-“crossing the river.”</p>
-
-<p>The boiled meat should be put into a strong solution of spices
-prepared before hand, which is the same as the mixture of spices used
-for making the pickle for sausages. After remaining in the solution of
-spices over night, the meat is ready to be eaten.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_83">§ 83. Roast Meat <span class="normcap">(<i>Shiu Yuk</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">燒肉</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>Poultry, or pigs weighing up to one hundred catties, frequently are
-roasted. Two methods are used. Poultry and small pigs may be roasted
-in pans in an ordinary oven. The other method, which is the one
-commonly used, is to roast in a special oven. The latter method
-requires more skill than roasting in the ordinary oven. The oven is in
-the form of a cylinder stood on end, thirty to forty inches in
-diameter, and five or six feet high. The poultry or pig is hung on
-iron bars across the top of the stove, and the stove or oven is then
-covered with an iron lid. Fire is built at the bottom of the cylinder
-through an opening at one side. Dry hard wood or charcoal, which
-give but little smoke, are generally used for fuel. The meat being
-roasted needs constant attention and shifting so that it will roast
-through uniformly. It is said that when the meat gives off a white
-smoke, it is an indication that it is done. A solution made up of one
-part honey and one part water is rubbed on the meat, both inside and
-outside the carcass, before the roasting. This honey solution gives
-the outside of the meat a desirable rich reddish brown color when
-roasted.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_84">§ 84. Dried Duck <span class="normcap">(<i>Laap Aap</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">腊鴨</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>For one dressed bird, use five taels of salt, which should be well
-rubbed into the meat. Then pack in salt for one day. Take up, wash off
-the salt, and put between two bamboo mats. Apply pressure for a few
-days, and hang up to dry.</p>
-
-<p class="pagenum" id="Page_41">{41}</p>
-
-<p>The Canton climate is not very favorable for drying duck, as during
-the meat curing season it frequently rains. If the meat does not dry
-fairly rapidly, it is likely to spoil. In Naam On, Kwong Sai province,
-where it is generally dry during the curing season, the ducks are
-packed away after two days exposure to the sun. In Canton, it often
-takes two weeks. Ducks’ heads, kidneys, feet and other parts of the
-bird are also cured in the same way.</p>
-
-
-<h3 id="Sec_85">§ 85. Puffed Pig Skin <span class="normcap">(<i>Chue P’ei</i> <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">豬皮</span>)</span></h3>
-
-<p>In making puffed pig skin, the pig skin is first cooked, and then
-thoroughly scraped with a knife in order to remove the oil and fat. It
-is then hung up in the sun to dry for about ten days. When it is ready
-for the puffing or blistering process, which is accomplished by
-roasting the dried skin in hot gravel in a shallow pan over a slow
-fire This process whitens and puffs, or blisters, the skin.</p>
-
-<p>The puffed pig skin is cut into small cubes and used in soups. It has
-a spongy appearance with very little taste.</p>
-
-<p>The skin on the hams, shoulders, and sides will puff the best, while
-the skin on the back, legs, and belly will not puff well on roasting
-in the hot gravel, but can be puffed by roasting in peanut oil.</p>
-
-<p>On account of dampness and cloudy weather which interfere with proper
-drying, puffed pig skin is best made during the dry, sunny winter
-months. The product is on sale, however, throughout the year, as it
-keeps well if hung in a fairly dry, airy place. It is commonly seen
-hanging in the front of meat shops in Canton.</p>
-
-
-<div class="footnote_1">
-<a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="fnanchor">1</a>
-For further details on smoking, see sections 55 to 61.
-</div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-<a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="fnanchor">2</a>
-Note: 1 mace = 1⁄100 ounce; 16 ounces = 1 catty.
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-<p class="center mt4">AGRICULTURAL PUBLICATIONS<br />
-OF THE<br />
-CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE</p>
-
-<p class="small">The following agricultural bulletins and publications may be obtained
-at the price indicated from College Bookstore, Canton Christian
-College, Cantor, China.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 5. <span class="smcap">Groff, G. W.</span>, Agricultural Reciprocity between America
-and China. Illustrated. 40 pp. $0.20.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 12. Groff, G. W., The Papaya for South China.
-Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 7 pp. $0.10.</p>
-
-<p class="pml2">Chinese edition under title <span lang="zh" xml:lang="zh">木瓜</span>. 8 pp. $0.10.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 18. Levine, C. O., and Cadbury, W. W., A Study of Milk
-Produced in Kwangtung. 9 pp. $0.10.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 20. The 1917–18 Journal of the Lingnaam Agricultural
-Society (in Chinese). Illustrated. 150 pp. $0.20.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 23. Levine, C. O., Notes on Farm Animals and Animal
-Industries in China. Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 54 pp. $0.40.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 25. Graybill, H. B., Lawn Grasses for South China. 6
-illustrations, 6 pp. $0.20.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Bulletin No. 27. Levine, C. O., Butchering and Curing Meats in China.
-Illustrated. 7 illustrations, 41 pp. $0.20.</p>
-
-<p class="mt1 hang">Groff, G. W., The Lychee and Lungnan. Canton, 1920. 60 illustrations,
-149 pp. Cloth bound. $2.20.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center larger125 mt4">CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE<br />
-<span class="smaller">CANTON, CHINA</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="center">ADMINISTRATIVE AND AGRICULTURAL STAFF</p>
-
-<p class="mt1"><span class="smcap">Charles K. Edmunds, ph.d.</span> (Johns Hopkins University), President.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Chung Wing Kwong, Chu Jen,</span> Vice-President.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Owen E. Pomeroy, b.a.</span> (Harvard University), Bursar.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Kenneth Duncan, m.a.</span> (University of Wisconsin), Dean of the College of Arts and Sciences.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">George Weidman Groff, m.s.</span> (Pennsylvania State College), Professor of Horticulture and Director of Agricultural Work.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Charles Walter Howard, m.s.</span> (University of Minnesota), Professor of Biology.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Clinton N. Laird, m.a.</span> (University of Pennsylvania), Professor of Chemistry.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Carl Oscar Levine, m.s.</span> in Agr. (Iowa State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts), Associate Professor of Animal Husbandry.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Taam Sik Hung, b.s.</span> in Agr. (Kansas State Agricultural College), Instructor in Animal Husbandry.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Walter Leon Funkhouser, b.s.</span> in Agr. (Pennsylvania State College), Instructor.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Floyd A. McClure, b.s.</span> in Agr. (Ohio State University), Instructor.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Fu Po Kwong, m.s.</span> in Agr. (Michigan Agricultural College), Instructor.</p>
-
-<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Edmund A. Gilbert,</span> Instructor.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center larger110 mt2">CO-OPERATING COLLEGE MISSIONS</p>
-
-<p>Pennsylvania State College Mission<br />
-Kansas State Agricultural College</p>
-
-
-<p class="center mt2 mb2">TRUSTEES OF CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE<br />
-156 Fifth Avenue<br />
-New York, U. S. A.<br />
-<span class="smcap">W. Henry Grant,</span> Secretary</p>
-
-
-
-<div class="chapter transnote">
-<h2 class="nobreak mt1" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes.</h2>
-
-
-<p>Minor errors in punctuation have been corrected.</p>
-
-<p>Numbers within braces indicate original printed page number.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#TOC">Table of Contents</a>: “Preface” added to Table of Contents for completeness.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#TOC">Table of Contents</a>: “Blood Sausage” added to Table of Contents to match book text.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#Page_10">Page 10</a>: “in other to get a uniform scald” changed to “in order to get a uniform scald”.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#KADB">Page 15</a>: “Killing and Dressing Cattle” changed to “Killing and Dressing Beef” to match table of contents.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#Page_21">Page 21</a>: “with them be is usually” changed to “with them is usually”.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#RFCM">Page 24</a>: “Recipes for Curing” changed to “Recipes for Curing Meats” to match table of contents.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUTCHERING AND CURING MEATS IN CHINA ***</div>
-<div style='text-align:left'>
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