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diff --git a/old/rmlfw10.txt b/old/rmlfw10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..72473b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/rmlfw10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10286 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Army Letters from an Officer's Wife, +1871-1888, by Frances M.A. Roe + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Army Letters from an Officer's Wife, 1871-1888 + +Author: Frances M.A. Roe + +Release Date: November, 2004 [EBook #6823] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 28, 2003] +[Date last updated: July 5, 2006] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARMY LETTERS FROM AN OFFICER'S WIFE *** + + + + +Scanned by Dianne Bean, Prescott Valley, AZ. + + + + + + +ARMY LETTERS FROM AN OFFICER'S WIFE + +FRANCES M. A. ROE. + +PREFACE + +PERHAPS it is not necessary to say that the events mentioned in the +letters are not imaginary--perhaps the letters themselves tell that! +They are truthful accounts of experiences that came into my own life +with the Army in the far West, whether they be about Indians, +desperadoes, or hunting--not one little thing has been stolen. They +are of a life that has passed--as has passed the buffalo and the +antelope--yes, and the log and adobe quarters for the Army. All +flowery descriptions have been omitted, as it seemed that a simple, +concise narration of events as they actually occurred, was more in +keeping with the life, and that which came into it. +FRANCES M. A. ROE. + +ARMY LETTERS FROM AN OFFICER'S WIFE + +KIT CARSON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +October, 1871. + +IT is late, so this can be only a note--to tell you that we arrived +here safely, and will take the stage for Fort Lyon to-morrow morning +at six o'clock. I am thankful enough that our stay is short at this +terrible place, where one feels there is danger of being murdered any +minute. Not one woman have I seen here, but there are men--any number +of dreadful-looking men--each one armed with big pistols, and leather +belts full of cartridges. But the houses we saw as we came from the +station were worse even than the men. They looked, in the moonlight, +like huge cakes of clay, where spooks and creepy things might be +found. The hotel is much like the houses, and appears to have been +made of dirt, and a few drygoods boxes. Even the low roof is of dirt. +The whole place is horrible, and dismal beyond description, and just +why anyone lives here I cannot understand. + +I am all upset! Faye has just been in to say that only one of my +trunks can be taken on the stage with us, and of course I had to +select one that has all sorts of things in it, and consequently leave +my pretty dresses here, to be sent for--all but the Japanese silk +which happens to be in that trunk. But imagine my mortification in +having to go with Faye to his regiment, with only two dresses. And +then, to make my shortcomings the more vexatious, Faye will be simply +fine all the time, in his brand new uniform! + +Perhaps I can send a long letter soon--if I live to reach that army +post that still seems so far away. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +October, 1871. + +AFTER months of anticipation and days of weary travel we have at last +got to our army home! As you know, Fort Lyon is fifty miles from Kit +Carson, and we came all that distance in a funny looking stage coach +called a "jerkey," and a good name for it, too, for at times it +seesawed back and forth and then sideways, in an awful breakneck way. +The day was glorious, and the atmosphere so clear, we could see miles +and miles in every direction. But there was not one object to be seen +on the vast rolling plains--not a tree nor a house, except the +wretched ranch and stockade where we got fresh horses and a perfectly +uneatable dinner. + +It was dark when we reached the post, so of course we could see +nothing that night. General and Mrs. Phillips gave us a most cordial +welcome--just as though they had known us always. Dinner was served +soon after we arrived, and the cheerful dining room, and the table +with its dainty china and bright silver, was such a surprise--so much +nicer than anything we had expected to find here, and all so different +from the terrible places we had seen since reaching the plains. It was +apparent at once that this was not a place for spooks! General +Phillips is not a real general--only so by brevet, for gallant service +during the war. I was so disappointed when I was told this, but Faye +says that he is very much afraid that I will have cause, sooner or +later, to think that the grade of captain is quite high enough. He +thinks this way because, having graduated at West Point this year, he +is only a second lieutenant just now, and General Phillips is his +captain and company commander. + +It seems that in the Army, lieutenants are called "Mister" always, but +all other officers must be addressed by their rank. At least that is +what they tell me. But in Faye's company, the captain is called +general, and the first lieutenant is called major, and as this is most +confusing, I get things mixed sometimes. Most girls would. A soldier +in uniform waited upon us at dinner, and that seemed so funny. I +wanted to watch him all the time, which distracted me, I suppose, for +once I called General Phillips "Mister!" It so happened, too, that +just that instant there was not a sound in the room, so everyone heard +the blunder. General Phillips straightened back in his chair, and his +little son gave a smothered giggle--for which he should have been sent +to bed at once. But that was not all! That soldier, who had been so +dignified and stiff, put his hand over his mouth and fairly rushed +from the room so he could laugh outright. And how I longed to run some +place, too--but not to laugh, oh, no! + +These soldiers are not nearly as nice as one would suppose them to be, +when one sees them dressed up in their blue uniforms with bright brass +buttons. And they can make mistakes, too, for yesterday, when I asked +that same man a question, he answered, "Yes, sorr!" Then I smiled, of +course, but he did not seem to have enough sense to see why. When I +told Faye about it, he looked vexed and said I must never laugh at an +enlisted man--that it was not dignified in the wife of an officer to +do so. And then I told him that an officer should teach an enlisted +man not to snicker at his wife, and not to call her "Sorr," which was +disrespectful. I wanted to say more, but Faye suddenly left the room. + +The post is not at all as you and I had imagined it to be. There is no +high wall around it as there is at Fort Trumbull. It reminds one of a +prim little village built around a square, in the center of which is a +high flagstaff and a big cannon. The buildings are very low and broad +and are made of adobe--a kind of clay and mud mixed together--and the +walls are very thick. At every window are heavy wooden shutters, that +can be closed during severe sand and wind storms. A little ditch--they +call it acequia--runs all around the post, and brings water to the +trees and lawns, but water for use in the houses is brought up in +wagons from the Arkansas River, and is kept in barrels. + +Yesterday morning--our first here--we were awakened by the sounds of +fife and drum that became louder and louder, until finally I thought +the whole Army must be marching to the house. I stumbled over +everything in the room in my haste to get to one of the little dormer +windows, but there was nothing to be seen, as it was still quite dark. +The drumming became less loud, and then ceased altogether, when a big +gun was fired that must have wasted any amount of powder, for it shook +the house and made all the windows rattle. Then three or four bugles +played a little air, which it was impossible to hear because of the +horrible howling and crying of dogs--such howls of misery you never +heard--they made me shiver. This all suddenly ceased, and immediately +there were lights flashing some distance away, and dozens of men +seemed to be talking all at the same time, some of them shouting, +"Here!" "Here!" I began to think that perhaps Indians had come upon +us, and called to Faye, who informed me in a sleepy voice that it was +only reveille roll-call, and that each man was answering to his name. +There was the same performance this morning, and at breakfast I asked +General Phillips why soldiers required such a beating of drums, and +deafening racket generally, to awaken them in the morning. But he did +not tell me--said it was an old army custom to have the drums beaten +along the officers' walk at reveille. + +Yesterday morning, directly after guard-mounting, Faye put on his +full-dress uniform--epaulets, beautiful scarlet sash, and sword--and +went over to the office of the commanding officer to report +officially. The officer in command of the post is lieutenant colonel +of the regiment, but he, also, is a general by brevet, and one can see +by his very walk that he expects this to be remembered always. So it +is apparent to me that the safest thing to do is to call everyone +general--there seem to be so many here. If I make a mistake, it will +be on the right side, at least. + +Much of the furniture in this house was made by soldier carpenters +here at the post, and is not only very nice, but cost General Phillips +almost nothing, and, as we have to buy everything, I said at dinner +last evening that we must have some precisely like it, supposing, of +course, that General Phillips would feel highly gratified because his +taste was admired. But instead of the smile and gracious acquiescence +I had expected, there was another straightening back in the chair, and +a silence that was ominous and chilling. Finally, he recovered +sufficient breath to tell me that at present, there were no good +carpenters in the company. Later on, however, I learned that only +captains and officers of higher rank can have such things. The +captains seem to have the best of everything, and the lieutenants are +expected to get along with smaller houses, much less pay, and much +less everything else, and at the same time perform all of the +disagreeable duties. + +Faye is wonderfully amiable about it, and assures me that when he gets +to be a captain I will see that it is just and fair. But I happen to +remember that he told me not long ago that he might not get his +captaincy for twenty years. Just think of it--a whole long +lifetime--and always a Mister, too--and perhaps by that time it will +be "just and fair" for the lieutenants to have everything! + +We saw our house yesterday--quarters I must learn to say--and it is +ever so much nicer than we had expected it to be. All of the officers' +quarters are new, and this set has never been occupied. It has a hall +with a pretty stairway, three rooms and a large shed downstairs, and +two rooms and a very large hall closet on the second floor. A soldier +is cleaning the windows and floors, and making things tidy generally. +Many of the men like to cook, and do things for officers of their +company, thereby adding to their pay, and these men are called +strikers. + +There are four companies here--three of infantry and one troop of +cavalry. You must always remember that Faye is in the infantry. With +the cavalry he has a classmate, and a friend, also, which will make it +pleasant for both of us. In my letters to you I will disregard army +etiquette, and call the lieutenants by their rank, otherwise you would +not know of whom I was writing--an officer or civilian. Lieutenant +Baldwin has been on the frontier many years, and is an experienced +hunter of buffalo and antelope. He says that I must commence riding +horseback at once, and has generously offered me the use of one of his +horses. Mrs. Phillips insists upon my using her saddle until I can get +one from the East, so I can ride as soon as our trunks come. And I am +to learn to shoot pistols and guns, and do all sorts of things. + +We are to remain with General and Mrs. Phillips several days, while +our own house is being made habitable, and in the meantime our trunks +and boxes will come, also the colored cook. I have not missed my +dresses very much--there has been so much else to think about. There +is a little store just outside the post that is named "Post Trader's," +where many useful things are kept, and we have just been there to +purchase some really nice furniture that an officer left to be sold +when he was retired last spring. We got only enough to make ourselves +comfortable during the winter, for it seems to be the general belief +here that these companies of infantry will be ordered to Camp Supply, +Indian Territory, in the spring. It must be a most dreadful +place--with old log houses built in the hot sand hills, and surrounded +by almost every tribe of hostile Indians. + +It may not be possible for me to write again for several days, as I +will be very busy getting settled in the house. I must get things +arranged just as soon as I can, so I will be able to go out on +horseback with Faye and Lieutenant Baldwin. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +October, 1871. + +WHEN a very small girl, I was told many wonderful tales about a grand +Indian chief called Red Jacket, by my great-grandmother, who, you will +remember, saw him a number of times when she, also, was a small girl. +And since then--almost all my life--I have wanted to see with my very +own eyes an Indian--a real noble red man--dressed in beautiful skins +embroidered with beads, and on his head long, waving feathers. + +Well, I have seen an Indian--a number of Indians--but they were not +Red Jackets, neither were they noble red men. They were simply, and +only, painted, dirty, and nauseous-smelling savages! Mrs. Phillips +says that Indians are all alike--that when you have seen one you have +seen all. And she must know, for she has lived on the frontier a long +time, and has seen many Indians of many tribes. + +We went to Las Animas yesterday, Mrs. Phillips, Mrs. Cole, and I, to +do a little shopping. There are several small stores in the +half-Mexican village, where curious little things from Mexico can +often be found, if one does not mind poking about underneath the trash +and dirt that is everywhere. While we were in the largest of these +shops, ten or twelve Indians dashed up to the door on their ponies, +and four of them, slipping down, came in the store and passed on +quickly to the counter farthest back, where the ammunition is kept. As +they came toward us in their imperious way, never once looking to the +right or to the left, they seemed like giants, and to increase in size +and numbers with every step. + +Their coming was so sudden we did not have a chance to get out of +their way, and it so happened that Mrs. Phillips and I were in their +line of march, and when the one in the lead got to us, we were pushed +aside with such impatient force that we both fell over on the counter. +The others passed on just the same, however, and if we had fallen to +the floor, I presume they would have stepped over us, and otherwise +been oblivious to our existence. This was my introduction to an +Indian--the noble red man! + +As soon as they got to the counter they demanded powder, balls, and +percussion caps, and as these things were given them, they were +stuffed down their muzzle-loading rifles, and what could not be rammed +down the barrels was put in greasy skin bags and hidden under their +blankets. I saw one test the sharp edge of a long, wicked-looking +knife, and then it, also, disappeared under his blanket. All this time +the other Indians were on their ponies in front, watching every move +that was being made around them. + +There was only the one small door to the little adobe shop, and into +this an Indian had ridden his piebald pony; its forefeet were up a +step on the sill and its head and shoulders were in the room, which +made it quite impossible for us three frightened women to run out in +the street. So we got back of a counter, and, as Mrs. Phillips +expressed it, "midway between the devil and the deep sea." There +certainly could be no mistake about the "devil" side of it! + +It was an awful situation to be in, and one to terrify anybody. We +were actually prisoners--penned in with all those savages, who were +evidently in an ugly mood, with quantities of ammunition within their +reach, and only two white men to protect us. Even the few small +windows had iron bars across. They could have killed every one of us, +and ridden far away before anyone in the sleepy town found it out. + +Well, when those inside had been given, or had helped themselves to, +whatever they wanted, out they all marched again, quickly and +silently, just as they had come in. They instantly mounted their +ponies, and all rode down the street and out of sight at race speed, +some leaning so far over on their little beasts that one could hardly +see the Indian at all. The pony that was ridden into the store door +was without a bridle, and was guided by a long strip of buffalo skin +which was fastened around his lower jaw by a slipknot. It is amazing +to see how tractable the Indians can make their ponies with only that +one rein. + +The storekeeper told us that those Indians were Utes, and were greatly +excited because they had just heard there was a small party of +Cheyennes down the river two or three miles. The Utes and Cheyennes +are bitter enemies. He said that the Utes were very cross--ready for +the blood of Indian or white man--therefore he had permitted them to +do about as they pleased while in the store, particularly as we were +there, and he saw that we were frightened. That young man did not know +that his own swarthy face was a greenish white all the time those +Indians were in the store! Not one penny did they pay for the things +they carried off. Only two years ago the entire Ute nation was on the +warpath, killing every white person they came across, and one must +have much faith in Indians to believe that their "change of heart" +has been so complete that these Utes have learned to love the white +man in so short a time. + +No! There was hatred in their eyes as they approached us in that +store, and there was restrained murder in the hand that pushed Mrs. +Phillips and me over. They were all hideous--with streaks of red or +green paint on their faces that made them look like fiends. Their hair +was roped with strips of bright-colored stuff, and hung down on each +side of their shoulders in front, and on the crown of each black head +was a small, tightly plaited lock, ornamented at the top with a +feather, a piece of tin, or something fantastic. These were their +scalp locks. They wore blankets over dirty old shirts, and of course +had on long, trouserlike leggings of skin and moccasins. They were not +tall, but rather short and stocky. The odor of those skins, and of the +Indians themselves, in that stuffy little shop, I expect to smell the +rest of my life! + +We heard this morning that those very savages rode out on the plains +in a roundabout way, so as to get in advance of the Cheyennes, and +then had hidden themselves on the top of a bluff overlooking the trail +they knew the Cheyennes to be following, and had fired upon them as +they passed below, killing two and wounding a number of others. You +can see how treacherous these Indians are, and how very far from noble +is their method of warfare! They are so disappointing, too--so wholly +unlike Cooper's red men. + +We were glad enough to get in the ambulance and start on our way to +the post, but alas! our troubles were not over. The mules must have +felt the excitement in the air, for as soon as their heads were turned +toward home they proceeded to run away with us. We had the four little +mules that are the special pets of the quartermaster, and are known +throughout the garrison as the "shaved-tails," because the hair on +their tails is kept closely cut down to the very tips, where it is +left in a square brush of three or four inches. They are perfectly +matched--coal-black all over, except their little noses, and are quite +small. They are full of mischief, and full of wisdom, too, even for +government mules, and when one says, "Let's take a sprint," the others +always agree--about that there is never the slightest hesitation. + +Therefore, when we first heard the scraping of the brake, and saw that +the driver was pulling and sawing at the tough mouths with all his +strength, no one was surprised, but we said that we wished they had +waited until after we had crossed the Arkansas River. But we got over +the narrow bridge without meeting more than one man, who climbed over +the railing and seemed less anxious to meet us than we were to meet +him. As soon as we got on the road again, those mules, with +preliminary kicks and shakes of their big heads, began to demonstrate +how fast they could go. We had the best driver at the post, and the +road was good and without sharp turns, but the ambulance was high and +swayed, and the pace was too fast for comfort. + +The little mules ran and ran, and we held ourselves on our seats the +best we could, expecting to be tipped over any minute. When we reached +the post they made a wonderful turn and took us safely to the +government corral, where they stopped, just when they got ready. One +leader looked around at us and commenced to bray, but the driver was +in no mood for such insolence, and jerked the poor thing almost down. + +Three tired, disheveled women walked from the corral to their homes; +and very glad one of them was to get home, too! Hereafter I shall +confine myself to horseback riding--for, even if John is frisky at +times, I prefer to take my chances with the one horse, to four little +long-eared government mules! But I have learned to ride very well, and +have a secure seat now. My teachers, Faye and Lieutenant Baldwin, have +been most exacting, but that I wanted. Of course I ride the army way, +tight in the saddle, which is more difficult to learn. Any attempt to +"rise" when on a trot is ridiculed at once here, and it does look +absurd after seeing the splendid and graceful riding of the officers. +I am learning to jump the cavalry hurdles and ditches, too. I must +confess, however, that taking a ditch the first time was more exciting +than enjoyable. John seemed to like it better than I did. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +November, 1871. + +IN many of my letters I have written about learning to ride and to +shoot, and have told you, also, of having followed the greyhounds +after coyotes and rabbits with Faye and Lieutenant Baldwin. These +hunts exact the very best of riding and a fast horse, for coyotes are +very swift, and so are jack-rabbits, too, and one look at a greyhound +will tell anyone that he can run--and about twice as fast as the +big-eared foxhounds in the East. But I started to write you about +something quite different from all this--to tell you of a really grand +hunt I have been on--a splendid chase after buffalo! + +A week or so ago it was decided that a party of enlisted men should be +sent out to get buffalo meat for Thanksgiving dinner for +everybody--officers and enlisted men--and that Lieutenant Baldwin, who +is an experienced hunter, should command the detail. You can imagine +how proud and delighted I was when asked to go with them. Lieutenant +Baldwin saying that the hunt would be worth seeing, and well repay one +for the fatigue of the hard ride. + +So, one morning after an early breakfast, the horses were led up from +the stables, each one having on a strong halter, and a coiled picket +rope with an iron pin fastened to the saddle. These were carried so +that if it should be found necessary to secure the horses on the +plains, they could be picketed out. The bachelors' set of quarters is +next to ours, so we all got ready together, and I must say that the +deliberate way in which each girth was examined, bridles fixed, rifles +fastened to saddles, and other things done, was most exasperating. But +we finally started, about seven o'clock, Lieutenant Baldwin and I +taking the lead, and Faye and Lieutenant Alden following. + +The day was very cold, with a strong wind blowing, so I wore one of +Faye's citizen caps, with tabs tied down over my ears, and a large +silk handkerchief around my neck, all of which did not improve my +looks in the least, but it was quite in keeping with the dressing of +the officers, who had on buckskin shirts, with handkerchiefs, +leggings, and moccasins. Two large army wagons followed us, each drawn +by four mules, and carrying several enlisted men. Mounted orderlies +led extra horses that officers and men were to ride when they struck +the herd. + +Well, we rode twelve miles without seeing one living thing, and then +we came to a little adobe ranch where we dismounted to rest a while. +By this time our feet and hands were almost frozen, and Faye suggested +that I should remain at the ranch until they returned; but that I +refused to do--to give up the hunt was not to be thought of, +particularly as a ranchman had just told us that a small herd of +buffalo had been seen that very morning only two miles farther on. So, +when the horses were a little rested, we started, and, after riding a +mile or more, we came to a small ravine, where we found one poor +buffalo, too old and emaciated to keep up with his companions, and +who, therefore, had been abandoned by them, to die alone. He had eaten +the grass as far as he could reach, and had turned around and around +until the ground looked as though it had been spaded. + +He got up on his old legs as we approached him, and tried to show +fight by dropping his head and throwing his horns to the front, but a +child could have pushed him over. One of the officers tried to +persuade me to shoot him, saying it would be a humane act, and at the +same time give me the prestige of having killed a buffalo! But the +very thought of pointing a pistol at anything so weak and utterly +helpless was revolting in the extreme. He was such an object of pity, +too, left there all alone to die of starvation, when perhaps at one +time he may have been leader of his herd. He was very tall, had a fine +head, with an uncommonly long beard, and showed every indication of +having been a grand specimen of his kind. + +We left him undisturbed, but only a few minutes later we heard the +sharp report of a rifle, and at once suspected, what we learned to be +a fact the next day, that one of the men with the wagons had killed +him. Possibly this was the most merciful thing to do, but to me that +shot meant murder. The pitiful bleary eyes of the helpless old beast +have haunted me ever since we saw him. + +We must have gone at least two miles farther before we saw the herd we +were looking for, making fifteen or sixteen miles altogether that we +had ridden. The buffalo were grazing quietly along a meadow in between +low, rolling hills. We immediately fell back a short distance and +waited for the wagons, and when they came up there was great activity, +I assure you. The officers' saddles were transferred to their hunters, +and the men who were to join in the chase got their horses and rifles +ready. Lieutenant Baldwin gave his instructions to everybody, and all +started off, each one going in a different direction so as to form a +cordon, Faye said, around the whole herd. Faye would not join in the +hunt, but remained with me the entire day. He and I rode over the +hill, stopping when we got where we could command a good view of the +valley and watch the run. + +It seemed only a few minutes when we saw the buffalo start, going from +some of the men, of course, who at once began to chase them. This kept +them running straight ahead, and, fortunately, in Lieutenant Baldwin's +direction, who apparently was holding his horse in, waiting for them +to come. We saw through our field glasses that as soon as they got +near enough he made a quick dash for the herd, and cutting one out, +had turned it so it was headed straight for us. + +Now, being on a buffalo hunt a safe distance off, was one thing, but +to have one of those huge animals come thundering along like a steam +engine directly upon you, was quite another. I was on one of +Lieutenant Baldwin's horses, too, and I felt that there might be +danger of his bolting to his companion, Tom, when he saw him dashing +by, and as I was not anxious to join in a buffalo chase just at that +time, I begged Faye to go with me farther up the hill. But he would +not go back one step, assuring me that my horse was a trained hunter +and accustomed to such sights. + +Lieutenant Baldwin gained steadily on the buffalo, and in a +wonderfully short time both passed directly in front of us--within a +hundred feet, Faye said. Lieutenant Baldwin was close upon him then, +his horse looking very small and slender by the side of the grand +animal that was taking easy, swinging strides, apparently without +effort and without speed, his tongue lolling at one side. But we could +see that the pace was really terrific--that Lieutenant Baldwin was +freely using the spur, and that his swift thoroughbred was stretched +out like a greyhound, straining every muscle in his effort to keep up. +He was riding close to the buffalo on his left, with revolver in his +right hand, and I wondered why he did not shoot, but Faye said it +would be useless to fire then--that Lieutenant Baldwin must get up +nearer the shoulder, as a buffalo is vulnerable only in certain parts +of his body, and that a hunter of experience like Lieutenant Baldwin +would never think of shooting unless he could aim at heart or lungs. + +My horse behaved very well--just whirling around a few times--but Faye +was kept busy a minute or two by his, for the poor horse was awfully +frightened, and lunged and reared and snorted; but I knew that he +could not unseat Faye, so I rather enjoyed it, for you know I had +wanted to go back a little! + +Lieutenant Baldwin and the buffalo were soon far away, and when our +horses had quieted down we recalled that shots had been fired in +another direction, and looking about, we saw a pathetic sight. +Lieutenant Alden was on his horse, and facing him was an immense +buffalo, standing perfectly still with chin drawn in and horns to the +front, ready for battle. It was plain to be seen that the poor horse +was not enjoying the meeting, for every now and then he would try to +back away, or give a jump sideways. The buffalo was wounded and unable +to run, but he could still turn around fast enough to keep his head +toward the horse, and this he did every time Lieutenant Alden tried to +get an aim at his side. + +There was no possibility of his killing him without assistance, and of +course the poor beast could not be abandoned in such a helpless +condition, so Faye decided to go over and worry him, while Lieutenant +Alden got in the fatal shot. As soon as Faye got there I put my +fingers over my ears so that I would not hear the report of the +pistol. After a while I looked across, and there was the buffalo still +standing, and both Faye and Lieutenant Alden were beckoning for me to +come to them. At first I could not understand what they wanted, and I +started to go over, but it finally dawned upon me that they were +actually waiting for me to come and kill that buffalo! I saw no glory +in shooting a wounded animal, so I turned my horse back again, but had +not gone far before I heard the pistol shot. + +Then I rode over to see the huge animal, and found Faye and Lieutenant +Alden in a state of great excitement. They said he was a magnificent +specimen--unusually large, and very black--what they call a blue +skin--with a splendid head and beard. I had been exposed to a bitterly +cold wind, without the warming exercise of riding, for over an hour, +and my hands were so cold and stiff that I could scarcely hold the +reins, so they jumped me up on the shoulders of the warm body, and I +buried my hands in the long fur on his neck. He fell on his wounded +side, and looked precisely as though he was asleep---so much so that I +half expected him to spring up and resent the indignity he was being +subjected to. + +Very soon after that Faye and I came on home, reaching the post about +seven o'clock. We had been in our saddles most of the time for twelve +hours, on a cold day, and were tired and stiff, and when Faye tried to +assist me from my horse I fell to the ground in a heap. But I got +through the day very well, considering the very short time I have been +riding--that is, really riding. The hunt was a grand sight, and +something that probably I will never have a chance of seeing +again--and, to be honest, I do not want to see another, for the sight +of one of those splendid animals running for his life is not a +pleasant one. + +The rest of the party did not come in until several hours later; but +they brought the meat and skins of four buffalo, and the head of +Lieutenant Alden's, which he will send East to be mounted. The skin he +intends to take to an Indian camp, to be tanned by the squaws. +Lieutenant Baldwin followed his buffalo until he got in the position +he wanted, and then killed him with one shot. Faye says that only a +cool head and experience could have done that. Much depends upon the +horse, too, for so many horses are afraid of a buffalo, and lunge +sideways just at the critical moment. + +Several experienced hunters tell marvelous tales of how they have +stood within a few yards of a buffalo and fired shot after shot from a +Springfield rifle, straight at his head, the balls producing no effect +whatever, except, perhaps, a toss of the head and the flying out of a +tuft of hair. Every time the ball would glance off from the thick +skull. The wonderful mat of curly hair must break the force some, too. +This mat, or cushion, in between the horns of the buffalo Lieutenant +Alden killed, was so thick and tangled that I could not begin to get +my fingers in it. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +December, 1871. + +OUR first Christmas on the frontier was ever so pleasant, but it +certainly was most vexatious not to have that box from home. And I +expect that it has been at Kit Carson for days, waiting to be brought +down. We had quite a little Christmas without it, however, for a +number of things came from the girls, and several women of the +garrison sent pretty little gifts to me. It was so kind and thoughtful +of them to remember that I might be a bit homesick just now. All the +little presents were spread out on a table, and in a way to make them +present as fine an appearance as possible. Then I printed in large +letters, on a piece of cardboard, "One box--contents unknown!" and +stood it up on the back of the table. I did this to let everyone know +that we had not been forgotten by home people. My beautiful new saddle +was brought in, also, for although I had had it several weeks, it was +really one of Faye's Christmas gifts to me. + +They have such a charming custom in the Army of going along the line +Christmas morning and giving each other pleasant greetings and looking +at the pretty things everyone has received. This is a rare treat out +here, where we are so far from shops and beautiful Christmas displays. +We all went to the bachelors' quarters, almost everyone taking over +some little remembrance--homemade candy, cakes, or something of that +sort. + +I had a splendid cake to send over that morning, and I will tell you +just what happened to it. At home we always had a large fruit cake +made for the holidays, long in advance, and I thought I would have one +this year as near like it as possible. But it seemed that the only way +to get it was to make it. So, about four weeks ago, I commenced. It +was quite an undertaking for me, as I had never done anything of the +kind, and perhaps I did not go about it the easiest way, but I knew +how it should look when done, and of course I knew precisely how it +should taste. Eliza makes delicious every-day cake, but was no +assistance whatever with the fruit cake, beyond encouraging me with +the assurance that it would not matter in the least if it should be +heavy. + +Well, for two long, tiresome days I worked over that cake, preparing +with my own fingers every bit of the fruit, which I consider was a +fine test of perseverance and staying qualities. After the ingredients +were all mixed together there seemed to be enough for a whole +regiment, so we decided to make two cakes of it. They looked lovely +when baked, and just right, and smelled so good, too! I wrapped them +in nice white paper that had been wet with brandy, and put them +carefully away--one in a stone jar, the other in a tin box--and felt +that I had done a remarkably fine bit of housekeeping. The bachelors +have been exceedingly kind to me, and I rejoiced at having a nice cake +to send them Christmas morning. But alas! I forgot that the little +house was fragrant with the odor of spice and fruit, and that there +was a man about who was ever on the lookout for good things to eat. It +is a shame that those cadets at West Point are so starved. They seem +to be simply famished for months after they graduate. + +It so happened that there was choir practice that very evening, and +that I was at the chapel an hour or so. When I returned, I found the +three bachelors sitting around the open fire, smoking, and looking +very comfortable indeed. Before I was quite in the room they all stood +up and began to praise the cake. I think Faye was the first to mention +it, saying it was a "great success"; then the others said "perfectly +delicious," and so on, but at the same time assuring me that a large +piece had been left for me. + +For one minute I stood still, not in the least grasping their meaning; +but finally I suspected mischief, they all looked so serenely +contented. So I passed on to the dining room, and there, on the table, +was one of the precious cakes---at least what was left of it, the very +small piece that had been so generously saved for me. And there were +plates with crumbs, and napkins, that told the rest of the sad +tale--and there was wine and empty glasses, also. Oh, yes! Their early +Christmas had been a fine one. There was nothing for me to say or +do--at least not just then--so I went back to the little living-room +and forced myself to be halfway pleasant to the four men who were +there, each one looking precisely like the cat after it had eaten the +canary! The cake was scarcely cold, and must have been horribly +sticky--and I remember wondering, as I sat there, which one would need +the doctor first, and what the doctor would do if they were all seized +with cramps at the same time. But they were not ill--not in the +least--which proved that the cake was well baked. If they had +discovered the other one, however, there is no telling what might have +happened. + +At half after ten yesterday the chaplain held service, and the little +chapel was crowded--so many of the enlisted men were present. We sang +our Christmas music, and received many compliments. Our little choir +is really very good. Both General Phillips and Major Pierce have fine +voices. One of the infantry sergeants plays the organ now, for it was +quite too hard for me to sing and work those old pedals. Once I forgot +them entirely, and everybody smiled--even the chaplain! + +From the chapel we--that is, the company officers and their +wives--went to the company barracks to see the men's dinner tables. +When we entered the dining hall we found the entire company standing +in two lines, one down each side, every man in his best inspection +uniform, and every button shining. With eyes to the front and hands +down their sides they looked absurdly like wax figures waiting to be +"wound up," and I did want so much to tell the little son of General +Phillips to pinch one and make him jump. He would have done it, too, +and then put all the blame upon me, without loss of time. + +The first sergeant came to meet us, and went around with us. There +were three long tables, fairly groaning with things upon them: +buffalo, antelope, boiled ham, several kinds of vegetables, pies, +cakes, quantities of pickles, dried "apple-duff," and coffee, and in +the center of each table, high up, was a huge cake thickly covered +with icing. These were the cakes that Mrs. Phillips, Mrs. Barker, and +I had sent over that morning. It is the custom in the regiment for the +wives of the officers every Christmas to send the enlisted men of +their husbands' companies large plum cakes, rich with fruit and sugar. +Eliza made the cake I sent over, a fact I made known from its very +beginning, to keep it from being devoured by those it was not intended +for. + +The hall was very prettily decorated with flags and accoutrements, but +one missed the greens. There are no evergreen trees here, only +cottonwood. Before coming out, General Phillips said a few pleasant +words to the men, wishing them a "Merry Christmas" for all of us. +Judging from the laughing and shuffling of feet as soon as we got +outside, the men were glad to be allowed to relax once more. + +At six o'clock Faye and I, Lieutenant Baldwin, and Lieutenant Alden +dined with Doctor and Mrs. Wilder. It was a beautiful little dinner, +very delicious, and served in the daintiest manner possible. But out +here one is never quite sure of what one is eating, for sometimes the +most tempting dishes are made of almost nothing. At holiday time, +however, it seems that the post trader sends to St. Louis for turkeys, +celery, canned oysters, and other things. We have no fresh vegetables +here, except potatoes, and have to depend upon canned stores in the +commissary for a variety, and our meat consists entirely of beef, +except now and then, when we may have a treat to buffalo or antelope. + +The commanding officer gave a dancing party Friday evening that was +most enjoyable. He is a widower, you know. His house is large, and the +rooms of good size, so that dancing was comfortable. The music +consisted of one violin with accordion accompaniment. This would seem +absurd in the East, but I can assure you that one accordion, when +played well by a German, is an orchestra in itself. And Doos plays +very well. The girls East may have better music to dance by, and +polished waxed floors to slip down upon, but they cannot have the +excellent partners one has at an army post, and I choose the partners! + +The officers are excellent dancers--every one of them--and when you +are gliding around, your chin, or perhaps your nose, getting a scratch +now and then from a gorgeous gold epaulet, you feel as light as a +feather, and imagine yourself with a fairy prince. Of course the +officers were in full-dress uniform Friday night, so I know just what +I am talking about, scratches and all. Every woman appeared in her +finest gown. I wore my nile-green silk, which I am afraid showed off +my splendid coat of tan only too well. + +The party was given for Doctor and Mrs. Anderson, who are guests of +General Bourke for a few days. They are en route to Fort Union, New +Mexico. Mrs. Anderson was very handsome in an elegant gown of +London-smoke silk. I am to assist Mrs. Phillips in receiving New +Year's day, and shall wear my pearl-colored Irish poplin. We are going +out now for a little ride. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +January, 1872. + +WHEN we came over on the stage from Kit Carson last fall, I sat on top +with the driver, who told me of many terrible experiences he had +passed through during the years he had been driving a stage on the +plains, and some of the most thrilling were of sand storms, when he +had, with great difficulty, saved the stage and perhaps his own life. +There have been ever so many storms, since we have been here, that +covered everything in the houses with dust and sand, but nothing at +all like those the driver described. But yesterday one came--a +terrific storm--and it so happened that I was caught out in the +fiercest part of it. + +As Faye was officer of the day, he could not leave the garrison, so I +rode with Lieutenant Baldwin and Lieutenant Alden. The day was +glorious--sunny, and quite warm--one of Colorado's very best, without +a cloud to be seen in any direction. We went up the river to the mouth +of a pretty little stream commonly called "The Picket Wire," but the +real name of which is La Purgatoire. It is about five miles from the +post and makes a nice objective point for a short ride, for the clear +water gurgling over the stones, and the trees and bushes along its +banks, are always attractive in this treeless country. + +The canter up was brisk, and after giving our horses the drink from +the running stream they always beg for, we started back on the road to +the post in unusually fine spirits. Almost immediately, however, +Lieutenant Baldwin said, "I do not like the looks of that cloud over +there!" We glanced back in the direction he pointed, and seeing only a +streak of dark gray low on the horizon, Lieutenant Alden and I paid no +more attention to it. But Lieutenant Baldwin was very silent, and ever +looking back at the queer gray cloud. Once I looked at it, too, and +was amazed at the wonderfully fast way it had spread out, but just +then John shied at something, and in managing the horse I forgot the +cloud. + +When about two miles from the post, Lieutenant Baldwin, who had fallen +back a little, called to us, "Put your horses to their best pace--a +sand storm is coming!" Then we knew there was a possibility of much +danger, for Lieutenant Baldwin is known to be a keen observer, and our +confidence in his judgment was great, so, without once looking back to +see what was coming after us, Lieutenant Alden and I started our +horses on a full run. + +Well, that cloud increased in size with a rapidity you could never +imagine, and soon the sun was obscured as if by an eclipse. It became +darker and darker, and by the time we got opposite the post trader's +there could be heard a loud, continuous roar, resembling that of a +heavy waterfall. + +Just then Lieutenant Baldwin grasped my bridle rein on the right and +told Lieutenant Alden to ride close on my left, which was done not a +second too soon, for as we reached the officers' line the storm struck +us, and with such force that I was almost swept from my saddle. The +wind was terrific and going at hurricane speed, and the air so thick +with sand and dirt we could not see the ears of our own horses. The +world seemed to have narrowed to a space that was appalling! You will +think that this could never have been--that I was made blind by +terror--but I can assure you that the absolute truth is being written. + +Lieutenant Baldwin's voice sounded strange and far, far away when he +called to me, "Sit tight in your saddle and do not jump!" And then +again he fairly yelled, "We must stay together--and keep the horses +from stampeding to the stables!" He was afraid they would break away +and dash us against the iron supports to the flagstaff in the center +of the parade ground. How he could say one word, or even open his +mouth, I do not understand, for the air was thick with gritty dirt. +The horses were frantic, of course, whirling around each other, +rearing and pulling, in their efforts to get free. + +We must have stayed in about the same place twenty minutes or longer, +when, just for one instant, there was a lull in the storm, and I +caught a glimpse of the white pickets of a fence! Without stopping to +think of horse's hoofs and, alas! without calling one word to the two +officers who were doing everything possible to protect me, I shut my +eyes tight, freed my foot from the stirrup, and, sliding down from my +horse, started for those pickets! How I missed Lieutenant Alden's +horse, and how I got to that fence, I do not know. The force of the +wind was terrific, and besides, I was obliged to cross the little +acequia. But I did get over the fifteen or sixteen feet of ground +without falling, and oh, the joy of getting my arms around those +pickets! + +The storm continued for some time; but finally the atmosphere began to +clear, and I could see objects around me. And then out of the dust +loomed up Lieutenant Baldwin. He was about halfway down the line and +riding close to the fence, evidently looking for me. When he came up, +leading my horse, his face was black with more than dirt. He reminded +me of having told me positively not to jump from my horse, and asked +if I realized that I might have been knocked down and killed by the +crazy animals. Of course I had perceived all that as soon as I reached +safety, but I could not admit my mistake at that time without breaking +down and making a scene. I was nervous and exhausted, and in no +condition to be scolded by anyone, so I said: "If you were not an old +bachelor you would have known better than to have told a woman not to +do a thing--you would have known that, in all probability, that would +be the very thing she would do first!" That mollified him a little, +but we did not laugh--life had just been too serious for that. + +The chaplain had joined us, and so had Lieutenant Alden. The fence I +had run to was the chaplain's, and when the good man saw us he came +out and assisted me to his house, where I received the kindest care +from Mrs. Lawton. I knew that Faye would be greatly worried about me, +so as soon as I had rested a little--enough to walk--and had got some +of the dust out of my eyes, the chaplain and I hurried down to our +house to let him know that I was safe. + +At every house along the line the heavy shutters were closed, and not +one living thing was to be seen, and the post looked as though it +might have been long abandoned. There was a peculiar light, too, that +made the most familiar objects seem strange. Yes, we saw a squad of +enlisted men across the parade ground, trying with immense ropes to +get back in place the heavy roof of the long commissary building which +had been partly blown off. + +We met Faye at our gate, just starting out to look for us. He said +that when the storm first came up he was frightened about me, but when +the broad adobe house began to rock he came to the conclusion that I +was about as safe out on the plains as I would be in a house, +particularly as I was on a good horse, and with two splendid horsemen +who would take the very best care of me. My plait of hair was one mass +of dirt and was cut and torn, and is still in a deplorable condition, +and my face looks as though I had just recovered from smallpox. As it +was Monday, the washing of almost every family was out on lines, about +every article of which has gone to regions unknown. The few pieces +that were Caught by the high fences were torn to shreds. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +January, 1872. + +OUR little party was a grand success, but I am still wondering how it +came about that Mrs. Barker and I gave it together, for, although we +are all in the same company and next-door neighbors, we have seen very +little of each other. She is very quiet, and seldom goes out, even for +a walk. It was an easy matter to arrange things so the two houses +could, in a way, be connected, as they are under the same long roof, +and the porches divided by a railing only, that was removed for the +one evening. The dancing was in our house, and the supper was served +at the Barkers'. And that supper was a marvel of culinary art, I +assure you, even if it was a fraud in one or two things, We were +complimented quite graciously by some of the older housekeepers, who +pride themselves upon knowing how to make more delicious little dishes +out of nothing than anyone else. But this time it was North and South +combined, for you will remember that Mrs. Barker is from Virginia. + +The chicken salad--and it was delicious--was made of tender veal, but +the celery in it was the genuine article, for we sent to Kansas City +for that and a few other things. The turkey galantine was perfect, and +the product of a resourceful brain from the North, and was composed +almost entirely of wild goose! There was no April fool about the +delicate Maryland biscuits, however, and other nice things that were +set forth. We fixed up cozily the back part of our hall with +comfortable chairs and cushions, and there punch was served during the +evening. Major Barker and Faye made the punch. The orchestra might +have been better, but the two violins and the accordion gave us music +that was inspiring, and gave us noise, too, and then Doos, who played +the accordion, kept us merry by the ever-pounding down of one +government-shod foot. + +Everyone in the garrison came--even the chaplain was here during the +supper. The officers Were in full-dress uniform, and the only man in +plain evening dress was Mr. Dunn, the post trader, and in comparison +to the gay uniforms of the officers he did look so sleek, from his +shiny black hair down to the toes of his shiny black pumps! Mrs. +Barker and I received, of course, and she was very pretty in a pink +silk gown entirely covered with white net, that was caught up at many +places by artificial pink roses. The color was most becoming, and made +very pronounced the rich tint of her dark skin and her big black eyes. + +Well, we danced before supper and we danced after supper, and when we +were beginning to feel just a wee bit tired, there suddenly appeared +in our midst a colored woman--a real old-time black mammy--in a dress +of faded, old-fashioned plaids, with kerchief, white apron, and a +red-and-yellow turban tied around her head. We were dancing at the +time she came in, but everyone stopped at once, completely lost in +amazement, and she had the floor to herself. This was what she wanted, +and she immediately commenced to dance wildly and furiously, as though +she was possessed, rolling her big eyes and laughing to show the white +teeth. Gradually she quieted down to a smooth, rhythmic motion, slowly +swaying from side to side, sometimes whirling around, but with feet +always flat on the floor, often turning on her heels. All the time her +arms were extended and her fingers snapping, and snapping also were +the black eyes. She was the personification of grace, but the dance +was weird--made the more so by the setting of bright evening dresses +and glittering uniforms. One never sees a dance of this sort these +days, even in the South, any more than one sees the bright-colored +turban. Both have passed with the old-time darky. + +Of course we recognized Mrs. Barker, more because there was no one +else in our small community who could personify a darky so perfectly, +than because there was any resemblance to her in looks or gesture. The +make-up was artistic, and how she managed the quick transformation +from ball dress to that of the plantation, with all its black paint +and rouge, Mrs. Barker alone knows, and where on this earth she got +that dress and turban, she alone knows. But I imagine she sent to +Virginia for the whole costume. At all events, it was very bright in +her to think of this unusual divertissement for our guests when +dancing was beginning to lag a little. The dance she must have learned +from a mammy when a child. I forgot to say that during the time she +was dancing our fine orchestra played old Southern melodies. And all +this was arranged and done by the quietest woman in the garrison! + +Our house was upset from one end to the other to make room for the +dancing, but the putting of things in order again did not take long, +as the house has so very little in it. Still, I always feel rebellious +when anything comes up to interfere with my rides, no matter how +pleasant it may be. There have been a great many antelope near the +post of late, and we have been on ever so many hunts for them. The +greyhounds have not been with us, however, for following the hounds +when chasing those fleet animals not only requires the fastest kind of +a horse and very good riding, but is exceedingly dangerous to both +horse and rider because of the many prairie-dog holes, which are +terrible death traps. And besides, the dogs invariably get their feet +full of cactus needles, which cause much suffering for days. + +So we have been flagging the antelope, that is, taking a shameful +advantage of their wonderful curiosity, and enticing them within rifle +range. On these hunts I usually hold the horses of the three officers +and my own, and so far they have not given me much trouble, for each +one is a troop-trained animal. + +The antelope are shy and wary little creatures, and possess an +abnormal sense of smell that makes it absolutely necessary for hunters +to move cautiously to leeward the instant they discover them. It is +always an easy matter to find a little hill that will partly screen +them--the country is so rolling--as they creep and crawl to position, +ever mindful of the dreadful cactus. When they reach the highest point +the flag is put up, and this is usually made on the spot, of a red +silk handkerchief, one corner run through the rammer of a Springfield +rifle. Then everyone lies down flat on the ground, resting on his +elbows, with rifle in position for firing. + +Antelope always graze against the wind, and even a novice can tell +when they discover the flag, for they instantly stop feeding, and the +entire band will whirl around to face it, with big round ears standing +straight up, and in this way they will remain a second or two, +constantly sniffing the air. Failing to discover anything dangerous, +they will take a few steps forward, perhaps run around a little, +giving quick tossings of the head, and sniffing with almost every +breath, but whatever they do the stop is always in the same +position--facing the flag, the strange object they cannot understand. +Often they will approach very slowly, making frequent halts after +little runs, and give many tossings of the head as if they were +actually coquetting with death itself! Waiting for them to come within +range of the rifle requires great patience, for the approach is always +more or less slow, and frequently just as they are at the right +distance and the finger is on the trigger, off the whole band will +streak, looking like horizontal bars of brown and white! I am always +so glad when they do this, for it seems so wicked to kill such +graceful creatures. It is very seldom that I watch the approach, but +when I do happen to see them come up, the temptation to do something +to frighten them away from those murderous guns is almost +irresistible. + +But never once are they killed for mere pleasure! Their meat is tender +and most delicious after one has learned to like the "gamey" flavor. +And a change in meat we certainly do need here, for unless we can have +buffalo or antelope now and then, it is beef every day in the +month--not only one month, but every month. + +The prairie-dog holes are great obstacles to following hounds on the +plains, for while running so fast it is impossible for a horse to see +the holes in time to avoid them, and if a foot slips down in one it +means a broken leg for the horse and a hard throw for the rider, and +perhaps broken bones also. Following these English greyhounds--which +have such wonderful speed and keenness of sight--after big game on +vast plains, is very different from running after the slow hounds and +foxes in the East, and requires a very much faster horse and quite +superior riding. One has to learn to ride a horse--to get a perfect +balance that makes it a matter of indifference which-way the horse may +jump, at any speed--in fact, one must become a part of one's mount +before these hunts can be attempted. + +Chasing wolves and rabbits is not as dangerous, for they cannot begin +to run as fast as antelope. And it is great fun to chase the big +jack-rabbits. They know their own speed perfectly and have great +confidence in it. When the hounds start one he will give one or two +jumps high up in the air to take a look at things, and then he +commences to run with great bounds, with his enormously long ears +straight up like sails on a boat, and almost challenges the dogs to +follow. But the poor hunted thing soon finds out that he must do +better than that if he wishes to keep ahead, so down go the ears, flat +along his back, and stretching himself out very straight, goes his +very fastest, and then the real chase is on. + +But Mr. Jack-Rabbit is cunning, and when he sees that the long-legged +dogs are steadily gaining upon him and getting closer with every jump, +he will invariably make a quick turn and run back on his own tracks, +often going right underneath the fast-running dogs that cannot stop +themselves, and can only give vicious snaps as they jump over him. +Their stride--often fifteen and twenty feet--covers so much more +ground than the rabbit's, it is impossible for them to make as quick +turns, therefore it is generally the slow dog of the pack that catches +the rabbit. And frequently a wise old rabbit will make many turns and +finally reach a hole in safety. + +The tail of a greyhound is his rudder and his brake, and the sight is +most laughable when a whole pack of them are trying to stop, each tail +whirling around like a Dutch windmill. Sometimes, in their frantic +efforts to stop quickly, they will turn complete somersaults and roll +over in a cloud of dust and dirt. But give up they never do, and once +on their feet they start back after that rabbit with whines of +disappointment and rage. Many, many times, also, I have heard the dogs +howl and whine from the pain caused by the cactus spines in their +feet, but not once have I ever seen any one of them lag in the chase. + +But the pack here is a notoriously fine one. The leader. Magic, is a +splendid dog, dark brindle in color, very swift and very plucky, also +most intelligent. He is a sly rascal, too. He loves to sleep on +Lieutenant Baldwin's bed above all things, and he sneaks up on it +whenever he can, but the instant he hears Lieutenant Baldwin's step on +the walk outside, down he jumps, and stretching himself out full +length in front of the fire, he shuts his eyes tight, pretends to be +fast asleep, and the personification of an innocent, well-behaved dog! +But Lieutenant Baldwin knows his tricks now, and sometimes, going to +the bed, he can feel the warmth from his body that is still there, and +if he says, "Magic, you old villain," Magic will wag his tail a +little, which in dog language means, "You are pretty smart, but I'm +smart, too!" + +With all this outdoor exercise, one can readily perceive that the days +are not long and tiresome. Of course there are a few who yawn and +complain of the monotony of frontier life, but these are the +stay-at-homes who sit by their own fires day after day and let cobwebs +gather in brain and lungs. And these, too, are the ones who have time +to discover so many faults in others, and become our garrison gossips! +If they would take brisk rides on spirited horses in this wonderful +air, and learn to shoot all sorts of guns in all sorts of positions, +they would soon discover that a frontier post can furnish plenty of +excitement. At least, I have found that it can. + +Faye was very anxious for me to become a good shot, considering it +most essential in this Indian country, and to please him I commenced +practicing soon after we got here. It was hard work at first, and I +had many a bad headache from the noise of the guns. It was all done in +a systematic way, too, as though I was a soldier at target practice. +They taught me to use a pistol in various positions while standing; +then I learned to use it from the saddle. After that a little +four-inch bull's-eye was often tacked to a tree seventy-five paces +away, and I was given a Spencer carbine to shoot (a short magazine +rifle used by the cavalry), and many a time I have fired three rounds, +twenty-one shots in all, at the bull's-eye, which I was expected to +hit every time, too. + +Well, I obligingly furnished amusement for Faye and Lieutenant Baldwin +until they asked me to fire a heavy Springfield rifle--an infantry +gun. After one shot I politely refused to touch the thing again. The +noise came near making me deaf for life; the big thing rudely "kicked" +me over on my back, and the bullet--I expect that ball is still on +its way to Mars or perhaps the moon. This earth it certainly did not +hit! Faye is with the company almost every morning, but after luncheon +we usually go out for two or three hours, and always come back +refreshed by the exercise. And the little house looks more cozy, and +the snapping of the blazing logs sounds more cheerful because of our +having been away from them. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +April, 1872. + +SOME of the most dreadful things have occurred since I wrote you last, +and this letter will make you unhappy, I know. To begin with, orders +have actually come from Department Headquarters at Leavenworth for two +companies of infantry here--General Phillips' and Captain +Giddings'--to go to Camp Supply! So that is settled, and we will +probably leave this post in about ten days, and during that time we +are expected to sell, give away, smash up, or burn about everything we +possess, for we have already been told that very few things can be +taken with us. I do not see how we can possibly do with less than we +have had since we came here. + +Eliza announced at once that she could not be induced to go where +there are so many Indians--said she had seen enough of them while in +New Mexico. I am more than sorry to lose her, but at the same time I +cannot help admiring her common sense. I would not go either if I +could avoid it. + +You will remember that not long ago I said that Lieutenant Baldwin was +urging me to ride Tom, his splendid thoroughbred, as soon as he could +be quieted down a little so I could control him. Well, I was to have +ridden him to-day for the first time! Yesterday morning Lieutenant +Baldwin had him out for a long, hard run, but even after that the +horse was nervous when he came in, and danced sideways along the +officers' drive in his usual graceful way. Just as they got opposite +the chaplain's house, two big St. Bernard dogs bounded over the fence +and landed directly under the horse, entangling themselves with his +legs so completely that when he tried to jump away from them he was +thrown down on his knees with great force, and Lieutenant Baldwin was +pitched over the horse's head and along the ground several feet. + +He is a tall, muscular man and went down heavily, breaking three ribs +and his collar bone on both sides! He is doing very well, and is as +comfortable to-day as can be expected, except that he is grieving +piteously over his horse, for the poor horse--beautiful Tom--is +utterly ruined! Both knees have been sprung, and he is bandaged almost +as much as his master. + +The whole occurrence is most deplorable and distressing. It seems so +dreadful that a strong man should be almost killed and a grand horse +completely ruined by two clumsy, ill-mannered dogs. One belongs to the +chaplain, too, who is expected to set a model example for the rest of +us. Many, many times during the winter I have ridden by the side of +Tom, and had learned to love every one of his pretty ways, from the +working of his expressive ears to the graceful movement of his slender +legs. He was a horse for anyone to be proud of, not only for his +beauty but as a hunter, too, and he was Lieutenant Baldwin's delight +and joy. + +It does seem as if everything horrible had come all at once. The order +we have been expecting, of course, as so many rumors have reached us +that we were to go, but all the time there has been hidden away a +little hope that we might be left here another year. + +I shall take the greyhound puppy, of course. He is with Blue, his +mother, at Captain Richardson's quarters, but he is brought over every +day for me to see. His coat is brindled, dark brown and black--just +like Magic's--and fine as the softest satin. One foot is white, and +there is a little white tip to his tail, which, it seems, is +considered a mark of great beauty in a greyhound. We have named him +Harold. + +Nothing has been done about packing yet, as the orders have just been +received. The carpenters in the company will not be permitted to do +one thing for us until the captain and first lieutenant have had made +every box and crate they want for the move. I am beginning to think +that it must be nice to be even a first lieutenant. But never mind, +perhaps Faye will get his captaincy in twenty years or so, and then it +will be all "fair and square." + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +May, 1872. + +EVERYTHING is packed or disposed of, and we are ready to start +to-morrow on the long march to Camp Supply. Two large army wagons have +been allowed to each company for the officers' baggage, but as all +three officers are present with the company Faye is in, and the +captain has taken one of the wagons for his own use, we can have just +one half of one of those wagons to take our household goods to a +country where it is absolutely impossible to purchase one thing! We +have given away almost all of our furniture, and were glad that we had +bought so little when we came here. Our trunks and several boxes are +to be sent by freight to Hays City at our own expense, and from there +down to the post by wagon, and if we ever see them again I will be +surprised, as Camp Supply is about one hundred and fifty miles from +the railroad. We are taking only one barrel of china--just a few +pieces we considered the most necessary--and this morning Faye +discovered that the first lieutenant had ordered that one barrel to be +taken from the wagon to make more room for his own things. Faye +ordered it to be put back at once, and says it will stay there, too, +and I fancy it will! Surely we are entitled to all of our one half of +the wagon--second choice at that. + +I am to ride in an ambulance with Mrs. Phillips, her little son and +her cook, Mrs. Barker and her small son. There will be seats for only +four, as the middle seat has been taken out to make room for a +comfortable rocking-chair that will be for Mrs. Phillips's exclusive +use! The dear little greyhound puppy I have to leave here. Faye says I +must not take him with so many in the ambulance, as he would +undoubtedly be in the way. But I am sure the puppy would not be as +troublesome as one small boy, and there will be two small boys with +us. It would be quite bad enough to be sent to such a terrible place +as Camp Supply has been represented to us, without having all this +misery and mortification added, and all because Faye happens to be a +second lieutenant! + +I have cried and cried over all these things until I am simply +hideous, but I have to go just the same, and I have made up my mind +never again to make myself so wholly disagreeable about a move, no +matter where we may have to go. I happened to recall yesterday what +grandmother said to me when saying good-by: "It is a dreadful thing +not to become a woman when one ceases to be a girl!" I am no longer a +girl, I suppose, so I must try to be a woman, as there seems to be +nothing in between. One can find a little comfort, too, in the thought +that there is no worse place possible for us to be sent to, and when +once there we can look forward to better things sometime in the +future. I do not mind the move as much as the unpleasant experiences +connected with it. + +But I shall miss the kind friends, the grand hunts and delightful +rides, and shall long for dear old John, who has carried me safely so +many, many miles. + +Lieutenant Baldwin is still ill and very depressed, and Doctor Wilder +is becoming anxious about him. It is so dreadful for such a powerful +man as he has been to be so really broken in pieces. He insists upon +being up and around, which is bad, very bad, for the many broken +bones. + +I will write whenever I find an opportunity. + +OLD FORT ZARAH, KANSAS, +April, 1872. + +OUR camp to-night is near the ruins of a very old fort, and ever since +we got here, the men have been hunting rattlesnakes that have +undoubtedly been holding possession of the tumble-down buildings, many +snake generations. Dozens and dozens have been killed, of all sizes, +some of them being very large. The old quarters were evidently made of +sods and dirt, and must have been dreadful places to live in even when +new. + +I must tell you at once that I have the little greyhound. I simply +took matters in my own hands and got him! We came only five miles our +first day out, and after the tents had been pitched that night and the +various dinners commenced, it was discovered that many little things +had been left behind, so General Phillips decided to send an ambulance +and two or three men back to the post for them, and to get the mail at +the same time. It so happened that Burt, our own striker, was one of +the men detailed to go, and when I heard this I at once thought of the +puppy I wanted so much. I managed to see Burt before he started, and +when asked if he could bring the little dog to me he answered so +heartily, "That I can, mum," I felt that the battle was half won, for +I knew that if I could once get the dog in camp he would take care of +him, even if I could not. + +Burt brought him and kept him in his tent that night, and the little +fellow seemed to know that he should be good, for Burt told me that he +did not whimper once, notwithstanding it was his first night from his +mother and little companions. The next morning, when he was brought to +me, Faye's face was funny, and after one look of astonishment at the +puppy he hurried out of the tent--so I could not see him laugh, I +think. He is quite as pleased as I am, now, to have the dog, for he +gives no trouble whatever. He is fed condensed milk, and I take care +of him during the day and Burt has him at night. He is certainly much +better behaved in the ambulance than either of the small boys who step +upon our feet, get into fierce fights, and keep up a racket generally. +The mothers have been called upon to settle so many quarrels between +their sons, that the atmosphere in the ambulance has become quite +frigid. + +The day we came from the post, while I was grieving for the little +greyhound and many other things I had not been permitted to bring with +me, and the rocking-chair was bruising my ankles, I felt that it was +not dignified in me to submit to the treatment I was being subjected +to, and I decided to rebel. Mrs. Barker and her small son had been +riding on the back seat, and I felt that I was as much entitled to a +seat here as the boy, nevertheless I had been sitting on the seat with +Mrs. Phillips's servant and riding backward. This was the only place +that had been left for me at the post that morning. After thinking it +all over I made up my mind to take the small boy's seat, but just +where he would sit I did not know. + +When I returned to the ambulance after the next rest--I was careful to +get there first--I sat down on the back seat and made myself +comfortable, but I must admit that my heart was giving awful thumps, +for Mrs. Barker's sharp tongue and spitfire temper are well known. My +head was aching because of my having ridden backward, and I was really +cross, and this Mrs. Barker may have noticed, for not one word did she +say directly to me, but she said much to her son--much that I might +have resented had I felt inclined. The small boy sat on his mother's +lap and expressed his disapproval by giving me vicious kicks every few +minutes. + +Not one word was said the next morning when I boldly carried the puppy +to that seat. Mrs. Barker looked at the dog, then at me, with great +scorn, but she knew that if she said anything disagreeable Mrs. +Phillips would side with me, so she wisely kept still. I think that +even Faye has come to the conclusion that I might as well have the +dog--who lies so quietly in my lap--now that he sees how I am +sandwiched in with rocking-chairs, small boys, and servants. The men +march fifty minutes and halt ten, each hour, and during every ten +minutes' rest Harold and I take a little run, and this makes him ready +for a nap when we return to the ambulance. From this place on I am to +ride with Mrs. Cole, who has her own ambulance. This will be most +agreeable, and I am so delighted that she should have thought of +inviting me. + +Camping out is really very nice when the weather is pleasant, but the +long marches are tiresome for everybody. The ambulances and wagons are +driven directly back of the troops, consequently the mules can never +go faster than a slow walk, and sometimes the dust is enough to choke +us. We have to keep together, for we are in an Indian country, of +course. I feel sorry for the men, but they always march "rout" step +and seem to have a good time, for we often hear them laughing and +joking with each other. + +We are following the Arkansas River, and so far the scenery has been +monotonous--just the same rolling plains day after day. Leaving our +first army home was distressing, and I doubt if other homes and other +friends will ever be quite the same to me. Lieutenant Baldwin was +assisted to the porch by his faithful Mexican boy, so he could see us +start, and he looked white and pitifully helpless, with both arms +bandaged tight to his sides. One of those dreadful dogs is in camp and +going to Camp Supply with us, and is as frisky as though he had done +something to be proud of. + +This cannot be posted until we reach Fort Dodge, but I intend to write +to you again while there, of course, if I have an opportunity. + +FORT DODGE, KANSAS, +May, 1872. + +IT was nearly two o'clock yesterday when we arrived at this post, and +we go on again to-day about eleven. The length of all marches has to +be regulated by water and wood, and as the first stream on the road to +Camp Supply is at Bluff Creek, only ten miles from here, there was no +necessity for an early start. This gives us an opportunity to get +fresh supplies for our mess chests, and to dry things also. + +There was a terrific rain and electric storm last evening, and this +morning we present anything but a military appearance, for around each +tent is a fine array of bedding and clothing hung out to dry. Our camp +is at the foot of a hill a short distance back of the post, and during +the storm the water rushed down with such force that it seemed as +though we were in danger of being carried on to the Arkansas River. + +We had just returned from a delightful dinner with Major and Mrs. +Tilden, of the cavalry, and Faye had gone out to mount the guard for +the night, when, without a moment's warning, the storm burst upon us. +The lightning was fierce, and the white canvas made it appear even +worse than it really was, for at each flash the walls of the tent +seemed to be on fire. There was no dark closet for me to run into this +time, but there was a bed, and on that I got, taking the little dog +with me for company and to get him out of the wet. He seemed very +restless and constantly gave little whines, and at the time I thought +it was because he, too, was afraid of the storm. The water was soon +two and three inches deep on the ground under the tent, rushing along +like a mill race, giving little gurgles as it went through the grass +and against the tent pins. The roar of the rain on the tent was +deafening. + +The guard is always mounted with the long steel bayonets on the +rifles, and I knew that Faye had on his sword, and remembering these +things made me almost scream at each wicked flash of lightning, +fearing that he and the men had been killed. But he came to the tent +on a hard run, and giving me a long waterproof coat to wrap myself in, +gathered me in his arms and started for Mrs. Tilden's, where I had +been urged to remain overnight. When we reached a narrow board walk +that was supposed to run along by her side fence, Faye stood me down +upon it, and I started to do some running on my own account. Before I +had taken two steps, however, down went the walk and down I went in +water almost to my knees, and then splash--down went the greyhound +puppy! Up to that instant I had not been conscious of having the +little dog with me, and in all that rain and water Faye had been +carrying me and a fat puppy also. + +The walk had been moved by the rushing water, and was floating, which +we had no way of knowing, of course. I dragged the dog out of the +water, and we finally reached the house, where we received a true army +welcome--a dry one, too--and there I remained until after breakfast +this morning. But sleep during the night I did not, for until long +after midnight I sat in front of a blazing fire holding a very sick +puppy. Hal was desperately ill and we all expected him to die at any +moment, and I was doubly sorrowful, because I had been the innocent +cause of it. Ever since I have had him he has been fed condensed milk +only--perhaps a little bread now and then; so when we got here I sent +for some fresh milk, to give him a treat. He drank of it greedily and +seemed to enjoy it so much, that I let him have all he wanted during +the afternoon. And it was the effect of the milk that made him whine +during the storm, and not because he was afraid of the lightning. He +would have died, I do believe, had it not been for the kindness of +Major Tilden who knows all about greyhounds. They are very delicate +and most difficult to raise. The little dog is a limp bunch of +brindled satin this morning, wrapped in flannel, but we hope he will +soon be well. + +A third company joined us here and will go on to Camp Supply. Major +Hunt, the captain, has his wife and three children with him, and they +seem to be cultured and very charming people. Mrs. Hunt this moment +brought a plate of delicious spice cake for our luncheon. There is a +first lieutenant with the company, but he is not married. + +There is only one mail from here each week, so of course there will be +only one from Camp Supply, as that mail is brought here and then +carried up to the railroad with the Dodge mail. It is almost time for +the tents to be struck, and I must be getting ready for the march. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +May, 1872. + +THIS place is quite as dreadful as it has been represented to us. +There are more troops here than at Fort Lyon, and of course the post +is very much larger. There are two troops of colored cavalry, one of +white cavalry, and three companies of infantry. The infantry companies +that have been stationed here, and which our three companies have come +to relieve, will start in the morning for their new station, and will +use the transportation that brought us down. Consequently, it was +necessary to unload all the things from our wagons early this morning, +so they could be turned over to the outgoing troops. I am a little +curious to know if there is a second lieutenant who will be so +unfortunate as to be allowed only one half of a wagon in which to +carry his household goods. + +Their going will leave vacant a number of officers' quarters, +therefore there will be no selection of quarters by our officers until +to-morrow. Faye is next to the junior, so there will be very little +left to select from by the time his turn comes. The quarters are +really nothing more than huts built of vertical logs plastered in +between with mud, and the roofs are of poles and mud! Many of the +rooms have only sand floors. We dined last evening with Captain and +Mrs. Vincent, of the cavalry, and were amazed to find that such +wretched buildings could be made so attractive inside. But of course +they have one of the very best houses on the line, and as company +commander, Captain Vincent can have done about what he wants. And +then, again, they are but recently married, and all their furnishings +are new and handsome. There is one advantage in being with colored +troops--one can always have good servants. Mrs. Vincent has an +excellent colored soldier cook, and her butler was thoroughly trained +as such before he enlisted. It did look so funny, however, to see such +a black man in a blue Uniform. + +The march down from Fort Dodge was most uncomfortable the first two +days. It poured and poured rain, and then poured more rain, until +finally everybody and everything was soaked through. I felt so sorry +for the men who had to march in the sticky mud. Their shoes filled +fast with water, and they were compelled constantly to stop, take them +off, and pour out the water. It cleared at last and the sun shone warm +and bright, and then there was another exhibition in camp one +afternoon, of clothing and bedding drying on guy ropes. + +All the way down I was on the lookout for Indians, and was laughed at +many a time for doing so, too. Every time something unusual was seen +in the distance some bright person would immediately exclaim, "Oh, +that is only one of Mrs. Rae's Indians!" I said very little about what +I saw during the last day or two, for I felt that the constant teasing +must have become as wearisome to the others as it had to me. But I am +still positive that I saw the black heads of Indians on the top of +ever so many hills we passed. When they wish to see and not be seen +they crawl up a hill on the side farthest from you, but only far +enough up to enable them to look over, and in this position they will +remain for hours, perfectly motionless, watching your every movement. +Unless you notice the hill very carefully you will never see the black +dot on top, for only the eyes and upper part of the head are exposed. +I had been told all this many times; also, that when in an Indian +country to be most watchful when Indians are not to be seen. + +Camp Supply is certainly in an Indian country, for it is surrounded by +Comanches, Apaches, Kiowas, Cheyennes, and Arapahoes--each a hostile +tribe, except the last. No one can go a rod from the garrison without +an escort, and our weekly mail is brought down in a wagon and guarded +by a corporal and several privates. Only last week two +couriers--soldiers--who had been sent down with dispatches from Fort +Dodge, were found dead on the road, both shot in the back, probably +without having been given one chance to defend themselves. + +We are in camp on low land just outside the post, and last night we +were almost washed away again by the down-pouring rain, and this +morning there is mud everywhere. And this is the country that is +supposed never to have rain! Mrs. Vincent invited me most cordially to +come to her house until we at least knew what quarters we were to +have, and Captain Vincent came early to-day to insist upon my going up +at once, but I really could not go. We have been in rain and mud so +long I feel that I am in no way fit to go to anyone's house. Besides, +it would seem selfish in me to desert Faye, and he, of course, would +not leave the company as long as it is in tents. We are delighted at +finding such charming people as the Vincents at this horrid place. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +June, 1872. + +WE are in our own house now and almost settled. When one has only a +few pieces of furniture it does not take long to get them in place. It +is impossible to make the rooms look homelike, and I often find myself +wondering where in this world I have wandered to! The house is of +logs, of course, and has a pole and dirt roof, and was built +originally for an officers' mess. The dining room is large and very +long, a part of which we have partitioned off with a piece of canvas +and converted into a storeroom. We had almost to get down on our knees +to the quartermaster before he would give us the canvas. He is in the +quartermaster's department and is most arrogant; seems to think that +every nail and tack is his own personal property and for his exclusive +use. + +Our dining room has a sand floor, and almost every night little white +toadstools grow up all along the base of the log walls. All of the +logs are of cottonwood and have the bark on, and the army of bugs that +hide underneath the bark during the day and march upon us at night is +to be dreaded about as much as a whole tribe of Indians! + +I wrote you how everyone laughed at me on the march down because I was +positive I saw heads of Indians on the sand hills so many times. Well, +all that has ceased, and the mention of "Mrs. Rae's Indians" is +carefully avoided! There has been sad proof that the Indians were +there, also that they were watching us closely and kept near us all +the way down from Fort Dodge, hoping for a favorable opportunity to +steal the animals. The battalion of the --th Infantry had made only +two days' march from here, and the herders had just turned the horses +and mules out to graze, when a band of Cheyenne Indians swooped down +upon them and stampeded every animal, leaving the companies without +even one mule! The poor things are still in camp on the prairie, +waiting for something, anything, to move them on. General Phillips is +mightily pleased that the Indians did not succeed in getting the +animals from his command, and I am pleased that they cannot tease me +any more. + +My ride with Lieutenant Golden, Faye's classmate, this morning was +very exciting for a time. We started directly after stable call, which +is at six o'clock. Lieutenant Golden rode Dandy, his beautiful +thoroughbred, that reminds me so much of Lieutenant Baldwin's Tom, and +I rode a troop horse that had never been ridden by a woman before. As +soon as he was led up I noticed that there was much white to be seen +in his eyes, and that he was restless and ever pawing the ground. But +the orderly said he was not vicious, and he was sure I could ride him. +He did not object in the least to my skirt, and we started off in fine +style, but before we reached the end of the line he gave two or three +pulls at the bit, and then bolted! My arms are remarkably strong, but +they were like a child's against that hard mouth. He turned the corner +sharply and carried me along back of the laundress' quarters, where +there was a perfect network of clothes lines, and where I fully +expected to be swept from the saddle. But I managed to avoid them by +putting my head down close to the horse's neck, Indian fashion. He was +not a very large horse, and lowered himself, of course, by his +terrific pace. He went like the wind, on and up the hill in front of +the guard house. There a sentry was walking post, and on his big +infantry rifle was a long bayonet, and the poor man, in his desire to +do something for me, ran forward and held the gun horizontally right +in front of my horse, which caused him to give a fearful lunge to the +right and down the hill. How I managed to keep my seat I do not know, +and neither do I know how that mad horse kept right side up on that +down jump. But it did not seem to disturb him in the least, for he +never slackened his speed, and on we went toward the stables, where +the cavalry horses were tied to long picket ropes, and close together, +getting their morning grooming. + +All this time Lieutenant Golden had not attempted to overtake me, +fearing that by doing so he might make matters worse, but when he saw +that the horse was running straight for his place on the line, he +pushed forward, and grasping my bridle rein, almost pulled the horse +on his haunches. He said later that I might have been kicked to death +by the troop horses if I had been rushed in among them. We went on to +the stables, Lieutenant Golden leading my horse, and you can fancy how +mortified I was over that performance, and it was really unnecessary, +too. Lieutenant Golden, also the sergeant, advised me to dismount and +try another horse, but I said no! I would ride that one if I could +have a severer bit and my saddle girths tightened. Dismount before +Lieutenant Golden, a cavalry officer and Faye's classmate, and all +those staring troopers--I, the wife of an infantry officer? Never! It +was my first experience with a runaway horse, but I had kept a firm +seat all the time--there was some consolation in that thought. + +Well, to my great relief and comfort, it was discovered that the chin +chain that is on all cavalry bits had been left off, and this had made +the curb simply a straight bit and wholly ineffective. The sergeant +fastened the chain on and it was made tight, too, and he tightened the +girths and saw that everything was right, and then Lieutenant Golden +and I started on our ride the second time. I expected trouble, as the +horse was then leaving his stable and companions, but when he +commenced to back and shake his head I let him know that I held a nice +stinging whip, and that soon stopped the balking. We had to pass three +long picket lines of horses and almost two hundred troopers, every one +of whom stared at me with both eyes. It was embarrassing, of course, +but I was glad to let the whole line of them see that I was capable of +managing my own horse, which was still very frisky. I knew very well, +too, that the sergeant's angry roar when he asked, "Who bridled this +horse?" had been heard by many of them. Our ride was very delightful +after all its exciting beginning, and we are going again to morrow +morning. I want to let those troopers see that I am not afraid to ride +the horse they selected for me. + +I shall be so glad when Hal is large enough to go with me. He is +growing fast, but at present seems to be mostly legs. He is devoted to +me, but I regret to say that he and our old soldier cook are not the +dearest friends. Findlay is so stupid he cannot appreciate the cunning +things the little dog does. Hal is fed mush and milk only until he +gets his second teeth, and consequently he is wild about meat. The +odor of a broiling beefsteak the other day was more than he could +resist, so he managed to get his freedom by slipping his collar over +his head, and rushing into the kitchen, snatched the sizzling steak +and was out again before Findlay could collect his few wits, and get +across the room to stop him. The meat was so hot it burned his mouth, +and he howled from the pain, but drop it he did not until he was far +from the cook. This I consider very plucky in so young a dog! Findlay +ran after the little hound, yelling and swearing, and I ran after +Findlay to keep him from beating my dog. Of course we did not have +beefsteak that day, but, as I told Faye, it was entirely Findlay's +fault. He should have kept watch of things, and not made it possible +for Hal to kill himself by eating a whole big steak! + +Yesterday, Lieutenant Golden came in to luncheon, and when we went in +the dining room I saw at once that things were wrong, very wrong. A +polished table is an unknown luxury down here, but fresh table linen +we do endeavor to have. But the cloth on the table yesterday was a +sight to behold, with big spots of dirt all along one side and dirt on +top. Findlay came in the room just as I reached the table, and I said, +"Findlay, what has happened here?" He gave one look at the cloth where +I pointed, and then striking his knuckles together, almost sobbed out, +"Dot tamn dog, mum!" Faye and Lieutenant Golden quickly left the room +to avoid hearing any more remarks of that kind, for it was really very +dreadful in Findlay to use such language. This left me alone, of +course, to pacify the cook, which I found no easy task. Old Findlay +had pickled a choice buffalo tongue with much care and secrecy, and +had served it for luncheon yesterday as a great surprise and treat. +There was the platter on the table, but there could be no doubt of its +having been licked clean. Not one tiny piece of tongue could be seen +any place. + +The window was far up, and in vain did I try to convince everyone that +a strange dog had come in and stolen the meat, that Hal was quite too +small to have reached so far; but Findlay only looked cross and Faye +looked hungry, so I gave that up. Before night, however, there was +trouble and a very sick puppy in the house, and once again I thought +he would die. And every few minutes that disagreeable old cook would +come in and ask about the dog, and say he was afraid he could not get +well--always with a grin on his face that was exasperating. Finally, I +told him that if he had served only part of the tongue, as he should +have done, the dog would not have been so ill, and we could have had +some of it. That settled the matter--he did not come in again. Findlay +has served several enlistments, and is regarded as an old soldier, and +once upon a time he was cook for the colonel of the regiment, +therefore he sometimes forgets himself and becomes aggressive. I do +not wonder that Hal dislikes him. + +And Hal dislikes Indians, too, and will often hear their low mumbling +and give little growls before I dream that one is near. They have a +disagreeable way of coming to the windows and staring in. Sometimes +before you have heard a sound you will be conscious of an +uncomfortable feeling, and looking around you will discover five or +six Indians, large and small, peering at you through the windows, each +ugly nose pressed flat against the glass! It is enough to drive one +mad. You never know when they are about, their tread is so stealthy +with their moccasined feet. + +Faye is officer of the guard every third day now. This sounds rather +nice; but it means that every third day and night--exactly twenty-four +hours--he has to spend at the guard house, excepting when making the +rounds, that is, visiting sentries on post, and is permitted to come +to the house just long enough to eat three hurried meals. This is +doing duty, and would be all right if there were not a daily mingling +of white and colored troops which often brings a colored sergeant over +a white corporal and privates. But the most unpleasant part for the +officer of the guard is that the partition in between the officer's +room and guard room is of logs, unchinked, and very open, and the +weather is very hot! and the bugs, which keep us all in perpetual +warfare in our houses, have full sway there, going from one room to +the other. + +The officers say that the negroes make good soldiers and fight like +fiends. They certainly manage to stick on their horses like monkeys. +The Indians call them "buffalo soldiers," because their woolly heads +are so much like the matted cushion that is between the horns of the +buffalo. We had letters from dear old Fort Lyon yesterday, and the +news about Lieutenant Baldwin is not encouraging. He is not improving +and Doctor Wilder is most anxious about him. But a man as big and +strong as he was must certainly get well in time. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +June, 1872. + +IT seems as if I had to write constantly of unpleasant occurrences, +but what else can I do since unpleasant occurrences are ever coming +along? This time I must tell you that Faye has been turned out of +quarters--"ranked out," as it is spoken of in the Army. But it all +amounts to the same thing, and means that we have been driven out of +our house and home, bag and baggage, because a captain wanted that one +set of quarters! Call it what one chooses, the experience was not +pleasant and will be long remembered. Being turned out was bad enough +in itself, but the manner in which it was done was humiliating in the +extreme. We had been in the house only three weeks and had worked so +hard during that time to make it at all comfortable. Findlay wanted to +tear down the canvas partition in the dining room when we left the +house, and I was sorry later on that I had not consented to his doing +so. + +One morning at ten o'clock I received a note from Faye, written at the +guard house, saying that his set of quarters had been selected by a +cavalry officer who had just arrived at the post, and that every +article of ours must be out of the house that day by one o'clock! Also +that, as he was officer of the guard, it would be impossible for him +to assist me in the least, except to send some enlisted men to move +the things. At first I was dazed and wholly incapable of comprehending +the situation--it seemed so preposterous to expect anyone to move +everything out of a house in three hours. But as soon as I recovered +my senses I saw at once that not one second of the precious time must +be wasted, and that the superintendence of the whole thing had fallen +upon me. + +So I gathered my forces, and the four men started to work in a way +that showed they would do everything in their power to help me. All +that was possible for us to do, however, was almost to throw things +out in a side yard, for remember, please, we had only three short +hours in which to move everything--and this without, warning or +preparation of any kind. All things, big and small, were out by one +o'clock, and just in time, too, to avoid a collision with the colored +soldiers of the incoming cavalry officer, who commenced taking +furniture and boxes in the house at precisely that hour. + +Of course there was no hotel or even restaurant for me to go to, and I +was too proud and too indignant to beg shelter in the house of a +friend--in fact, I felt as if I had no friend. So I sat down on a +chair in the yard with the little dog by me, thinking, I remember, +that the chair was our own property and no one had a right to object +to my being there. And I also remember that the whole miserable affair +brought to mind most vividly scenes of eviction that had been +illustrated in the papers from time to time, when poor women had been +evicted for nonpayment of rent! + +Just as I had reached the very lowest depths of misery and woe, Mrs. +Vincent appeared, and Faye almost immediately after. We three went to +Mrs. Vincent's house for luncheon, and in fact I remained there until +we came to this house. She had just heard of what had happened and +hastened down to me. Captain Vincent said it was entirely the fault of +the commanding officer for permitting such a disgraceful order to +leave his office; that Captain Park's family could have remained one +night longer in tents here, as they had been in camp every night on +the road from Fort Sill. + +There came a ludicrous turn to all this unpleasantness, for, by the +ranking out of one junior second lieutenant, six or more captains and +first lieutenants had to move. It was great fun the next day to see +the moving up and down the officers' line of all sorts of household +goods, for it showed that a poor second lieutenant was of some +importance after all! + +But I am getting on too fast. Faye, of course, was entitled to two +rooms, some place in the post, but it seems that the only quarters he +could take were those occupied by Lieutenant Cole, so Faye decided at +once to go into tents himself, in preference to compelling Lieutenant +Cole to do so. Now it so happened that the inspector general of the +department was in the garrison, and as soon as he learned the +condition of affairs, he ordered the post quartermaster to double two +sets of quarters--that is, make four sets out of two--and designated +the quartermaster's own house for one of the two. But Major Knox +divided off two rooms that no one could possibly occupy, and in +consequence has still all of his large house. But the other large set +that was doubled was occupied by a senior captain, who, when his +quarters were reduced in size, claimed a new choice, and so, +turning another captain out, the ranking out went on down to a second +lieutenant. But no one took our old house from Captain Park, much to +my disappointment, and he still has it. + +The house that we are in now is built of cedar logs, and was the +commanding officer's house at one time. It has a long hall running +through the center, and on the left side Major Hunt and his family +have the four rooms, and we have the two on the right. Our kitchen is +across the yard, and was a chicken house not so very long ago. It has +no floor, of course, so we had loads of dirt dug out and all filled in +again with clean white sand, and now, after the log walls have been +scraped and whitened, and a number of new shelves put up, it is really +quite nice. Our sleeping room has no canvas on the walls inside, and +much of the chinking has fallen out, leaving big holes, and I never +have a light in that room after dark, fearing that Indians might shoot +me through those holes. They are skulking about the post all the time. + +We have another cook now--a soldier of course--and one that is rather +inexperienced. General Phillips ordered Findlay back to the company, +saying he was much needed there, but he was company cook just one day +when he was transferred to the general's own kitchen. Comment is +unnecessary! But it is all for the best, I am sure, for Farrar is very +fond of Hal, and sees how intelligent he is, just as I do. The little +dog is chained to a kennel all the time now, and, like his mistress, +is trying to become dignified. + +Faye was made post adjutant this morning, which we consider rather +complimentary, since the post commander is in the cavalry, and there +are a number of cavalry lieutenants here. General Dickinson is a +polished old gentleman, and his wife a very handsome woman who looks +almost as young as her daughter. Miss Dickinson, the general's older +daughter, is very pretty and a fearless rider. In a few days we two +are to commence our morning rides. + +How very funny that I should have forgotten to tell you that I have a +horse, at least I hope he will look like a horse when he has gained +some flesh and lost much long hair. He is an Indian pony of very good +size, and has a well-shaped head and slender little legs. He has a fox +trot, which is wonderfully easy, and which he apparently can keep up +indefinitely, and like all Indian horses can "run like a deer." So, +altogether, he will do very well for this place, where rides are +necessarily curtailed. I call him Cheyenne, because we bought him of +Little Raven, a Cheyenne chief. I shall be so glad when I can ride +again, as I have missed so much the rides and grand hunts at Fort +Lyon. + +Later: The mail is just in, and letters have come from Fort Lyon +telling us of the death of Lieutenant Baldwin! It is dreadful--and +seems impossible. They write that he became more and more despondent, +until finally it was impossible to rouse him sufficiently to take an +interest in his own life. Faye and I have lost a friend--a real, true +friend. A brother could not have been kinder, more considerate than he +was to both of us always. How terribly he must have grieved over the +ruin of the horse he was so proud of, and loved so well! + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +September, 1872. + +THE heat here is still intense, and it never rains, so everything is +parched to a crisp. The river is very low and the water so full of +alkali that we are obliged to boil every drop before it is used for +drinking or cooking, and even then it is so distasteful that we flavor +it with sugar of lemons so we can drink it at all. Fresh lemons are +unknown here, of course. The ice has given out, but we manage to cool +the water a little by keeping it in bottles and canteens down in the +dug-out cellar. + +Miss Dickinson and I continue our daily rides, but go out very early +in the morning. We have an orderly now, as General Dickinson considers +it unsafe for us to go without an escort, since we were chased by an +Indian the other day. That morning the little son of General Phillips +was with us, and as it was not quite as warm as usual, we decided to +canter down the sunflower road a little way--a road that runs to the +crossing of Wolf Creek through an immense field of wild sunflowers. +These sunflowers grow to a tremendous height in this country, so tall +that sometimes you cannot see over them even when on horseback. Just +across the creek there is a village of Apache Indians, and as these +Indians are known to be hostile, this particular road is considered +rather unsafe. + +But we rode on down a mile or more without seeing a thing, and had +just turned our ponies' heads homeward when little Grote, who was back +of us, called out that an Indian was coming. That was startling, but +upon looking back we saw that he was a long distance away and coming +leisurely, so we did not pay much attention to him. + +But Grote was more watchful, and very soon screamed, "Mrs. Rae, Mrs. +Rae, the Indian is coming fast--he's going to catch us!" And then, +without wasting time by looking back, we started our ponies with a +bound that put them at their best pace, poor little Grote lashing his +most unmercifully, and crying every minute, "He'll catch us! He'll +catch us!" + +That the Indian was on a fleet pony and was gaining upon us was very +evident, and what might have happened had we not soon reached the +sutler's store no one can tell, but we did get there just as he caught +up with us, and as we drew in our panting horses that hideous savage +rode up in front of us and circled twice around us, his pony going +like a whirlwind; and in order to keep his balance, the Indian leaned +far over on one side, his head close to the pony's neck. He said "How" +with a fiendish grin that showed how thoroughly he was enjoying our +frightened faces, and then turned his fast little beast back to the +sunflower road. Of course, as long as the road to the post was clear +we were in no very great danger, as our ponies were fast, but if that +savage could have passed us and gotten us in between him and the +Apache village, we would have lost our horses, if not our lives, for +turning off through the sunflowers would have been an impossibility. + +The very next morning, I think it was, one of the government mules +wandered away, and two of the drivers went in search of it, but not +finding it in the post, one of the men suggested that they should go +to the river where the post animals are watered. It is a fork of the +Canadian River, and is just over a little sand hill, not one quarter +of a mile back of the quarters, but not in the direction of the +sunflower road. The other man, however, said he would not go--that it +was not safe--and came back to the corral, so the one who proposed +going went on alone. + +Time passed and the man did not return, and finally a detail was sent +out to look him up. They went directly to the river, and there they +found him, just on the other side of the hill--dead. He had been shot +by some fiendish Indian soon after leaving his companion. The mule has +never been found, and is probably in a far-away Indian village, where +he brays in vain for the big rations of corn he used to get at the +government corral. + +Last Monday, soon after luncheon, forty or fifty Indians came rushing +down the drive in front of the officers' quarters, frightening some of +us almost out of our senses. Where they came from no one could tell, +for not one sentry had seen them until they were near the post. They +rode past the houses like mad creatures, and on out to the company +gardens, where they made their ponies trample and destroy every +growing thing. Only a few vegetables will mature in this soil and +climate, but melons are often very good, and this season the gardeners +had taken much pains with a crop of fine watermelons that were just +beginning to ripen. But not one of these was spared--every one was +broken and crushed by the little hoofs of the ponies, which seem to +enjoy viciousness of this kind as much as the Indians themselves. + +A company of infantry was sent at once to the gardens, but as it was +not quite possible for the men to outrun the ponies, the mischief had +been done before they got there, and all they could do was to force +them back at the point of the bayonet. Cavalry was ordered out, also, +to drive them away, but none of the troops were allowed to fire upon +them, and that the Indians knew very well. It might have brought on +an uprising! + +It seems that the Indians were almost all young bucks out for a +frolic, but quite ready, officers say, for any kind of devilment. They +rode around the post three or four times at breakneck speed, each +circle being larger, and taking them farther away. At last they all +started for the hills and gradually disappeared--all but one, a +sentinel, who could be seen until dark sitting his pony on the highest +hill. I presume there were dozens of Indians on the sand hills around +the post peeking over to see how the fun went on. + +They seem to be watching the post every second of the day, ready to +pounce upon any unprotected thing that ventures forth, be it man or +beast. At almost any time two or three black dots can be seen on the +top of the white sand hills, and one wonders how they can lie for +hours in the hot, scorching sand with the sun beating down on their +heads and backs. And all the time their tough little ponies will stand +near them, down the hill, scarcely moving or making a sound. Some +scouts declare that an Indian pony never whinnies or sneezes! But that +seems absurd, although some of those little beasts show wonderful +intelligence and appear to have been apt pupils in treachery. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +October, 1872. + +THIS place is becoming more dreadful each day, and every one of the +awful things I feared might happen here seems to be coming to pass. +Night before last the post was actually attacked by Indians! It was +about one o'clock when the entire garrison was awakened by rifle shots +and cries of "Indians! Indians!" There was pandemonium at once. The +"long roll" was beaten on the infantry drums, and "boots and saddles" +sounded by the cavalry bugles, and these are calls that startle all +who hear them, and strike terror to the heart of every army woman. +They mean that something is wrong--very wrong--and demand the +immediate report for duty at their respective companies of every +officer and man in the garrison. + +Faye jumped into his uniform, and saying a hasty good-by, ran to his +company, as did all the other officers, and very soon we could hear +the shouting of orders from every direction. + +Our house is at the extreme end of the officers' line and very +isolated, therefore Mrs. Hunt and I were left in a most deplorable +condition, with three little children--one a mere baby--to take care +of. We put them all in one bed and covered them as well as we could +without a light, which we did not dare have, of course. Then we saw +that all the doors and windows were fastened on both sides. We decided +that it would be quite impossible for us to remain shut up inside the +house, so we dressed our feet, put on long waterproof coats over our +nightgowns as quickly and silently as possible, and then we sat down +on the steps of the front door to await--we knew not what. I had firm +hold of a revolver, and felt exceedingly grateful all the time that I +had been taught so carefully how to use it, not that I had any hope of +being able to do more with it than kill myself, if I fell in the hands +of a fiendish Indian. I believe that Mrs. Hunt, however, was almost as +much afraid of the pistol as she was of the Indians. + +Ten minutes after the shots were fired there was perfect silence +throughout the garrison, and we knew absolutely nothing of what was +taking place around us. Not one word did we dare even whisper to each +other, our only means of communication being through our hands. The +night was intensely dark and the air was close--almost suffocating. + +In this way we sat for two terrible hours, ever on the alert, ever +listening for the stealthy tread of a moccasined foot at a corner of +the house. And then, just before dawn, when we were almost exhausted +by the great strain on our strength and nerves, our husbands came. +They told us that a company of infantry had been quite near us all the +time, and that a troop of cavalry had been constantly patrolling +around the post. I cannot understand how such perfect silence was +maintained by the troops, particularly the cavalry. Horses usually +manage to sneeze at such times. + +There is always a sentry at our corner of the garrison, and it was +this sentinel who was attacked, and it is the general belief among the +officers that the Indians came to this corner hoping to get the-troops +concentrated at the beat farthest from the stables, and thus give them +a chance to steal some, if not all, of the cavalry horses. But Mr. Red +Man's strategy is not quite equal to that of the Great Father's +soldiers, or he would have known that troops would be sent at once to +protect the horses. + +There were a great many pony tracks to be seen in the sand the next +morning, and there was a mounted sentinel on a hill a mile or so away. +It was amusing to watch him through a powerful field glass, and we +wished that he could know just how his every movement could be seen. +He sat there on his pony for hours, both Indian and horse apparently +perfectly motionless, but with his face always turned toward the post, +ready to signal to his people the slightest movement of the troops. + +Faye says that the colored troops were real soldiers that night, alert +and plucky. I can readily believe that some of them can be alert, and +possibly good soldiers, and that they can be good thieves too, for +last Saturday night they stole from us the commissary stores we had +expected to last us one week--everything, in fact, except coffee, +sugar, and such things that we keep in the kitchen, where it is dry. + +The commissary is open Saturday mornings only, at which time we are +requested to purchase all supplies we will need from there for the +following week, and as we have no fresh vegetables whatever, and no +meat except beef, we are very dependent upon the canned goods and +other things in the commissary. + +Last Saturday Mrs. Hunt and I sent over as usual, and most of the +supplies were put in a little dug-out cellar in the yard that we use +together--she having one side, I the other. On Sunday morning Farrar +happened to be the first cook to go out for things for breakfast, and +he found that the door had been broken open and the shelves as bare as +Mother Hubbard's. Everything had been carried off except a few candles +on Mrs. Hunt's side, and a few cakes of laundry soap on mine! The +candles they had no use for, and the thieves were probably of a class +that had no use for soap, either. + +Our breakfast that morning was rather light, but as soon as word got +abroad of our starving condition, true army hospitality and generosity +manifested itself. We were invited out to luncheon, and to dinner, and +to breakfast the next morning. You can see how like one big family a +garrison can be, and how in times of trouble we go to each other's +assistance. Of course, now and then we have disagreeable persons with +us--those who will give you only three hours to move out of your +house, or one who will order your cook from you. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +January, 1873. + +ALL that remained of Captain White was carried to the little cemetery +yesterday, with all the military honors possible at such a far-away +post We have no chaplain, therefore one of the cavalry officers read +the service for the dead at the house, just before the march to the +cemetery. Almost all of the cavalry of the garrison was out, mounted, +Captain White's own troop having the lead, of course, and the greater +part of the infantry was out also, and there was a firing detail, with +guns reversed. + +The casket, covered with a large flag, was carried on a caisson, and +his horse, led by an orderly, was covered with a large blanket of +black cloth. Over this was the saddle, and on top of the saddle rested +his helmet--the yellow horsehair plume and gold trimmings looking +soiled by long service. His sabre was there, too, and strapped to the +saddle on each side were his uniform boots, toes in stirrups--all +reversed! This riderless horse, with its pall of black, yellow helmet, +and footless boots, was the saddest sight imaginable. + +I did not go to the cemetery, but we heard distinctly the firing of +the three volleys over the grave and the sounding of taps on the +bugles. The garrison flag had been drawn to half mast almost the +moment of Captain White's death, but at the last sound of taps it was +immediately pulled up to full mast, and soon the troops came back to +their quarters, the field music playing lively airs. + +This seemed so unnecessarily cruel, for Mrs. White must have heard +every note, and she is still so wretchedly ill. The tiny baby has been +taken from the house by the motherly wife of an officer, and the other +tots--four in all--are being cared for by others. We have all been +taking turns in sitting up nights during the illness of husband and +wife, and last night three of us were there, Captain Tillman and Faye +in one room, and I with Mrs. White. It was a terrible night, probably +the one that has exacted, or will exact, the greatest self-control, as +it was the one before the burial. + +In civil life a poor widow can often live right on in her old home, +but in the Army, never! Mrs. White will have to give up the quarters +just as soon as she and the little baby are strong enough to travel. +She has been in a warm climate many years, and her friends are all in +the North, so to-morrow a number of us are to commence making warm +clothing for her and the children. She has absolutely nothing of the +kind, and seems to be pitifully helpless and incapable of thinking for +herself. + +Soon after I got home this morning and was trying to get a little +sleep, I heard screams and an awful commotion across the hall in one +of Mrs. Hunt's rooms, and running over to see what was the matter, I +found Mrs. Hunt standing upon a chair, and her cook running around +like a madman, with a stick of wood in his hand, upsetting furniture +and whacking things generally. I naturally thought of a mouse, and not +being afraid of them, I went on in and closed the door. I doubt if +Mrs. Hunt saw me, she was so intently watching the man, who kept on +upsetting things. He stopped finally, and then held up on the wood a +snake--a dead rattlesnake! We measured it, and it was over two feet +long. + +You can see how the house is built by the photograph I sent you, that +there are no chimneys, and that the stovepipes go straight up through +the pole and sod roof. The children insist that the snake came down +the pipe in the liveliest kind of a way, so it must have crawled up +the logs to the roof, and finding the warmth of the pipe, got too +close to the opening and slipped through. However that may be, he got +into the room where the three little children were playing alone. +Fortunately, the oldest recognized the danger at once, and ran +screaming to her mother, the other two following. Mrs. Hunt was almost +ill over the affair, and Major Hunt kept a man on top and around the +old house hunting for snakes, until we began to fear it would be +pulled down on our heads. + +This country itself is bad enough, and the location of the post is +most unfortunate, but to compel officers and men to live in these old +huts of decaying, moldy wood, which are reeking with malaria and alive +with bugs, and perhaps snakes, is wicked. Officers' families are not +obliged to remain here, of course. + +But at dreadful places like this is where the plucky army wife is most +needed. Her very presence has often a refining and restraining +influence over the entire garrison, from the commanding officer down +to the last recruit. No one can as quickly grasp the possibilities of +comfort in quarters like these, or as bravely busy herself to fix them +up. She knows that the stay is indefinite, that it may be for six +months, or possibly six years, but that matters not. It is her army +home--Brass Button's home--and however discouraging its condition may +be, for his sake she pluckily, and with wifely pride, performs +miracles, always making the house comfortable and attractive. + +FORT DODGE, KANSAS, +January, 1873. + +OUR coming here was most unexpected and very unpleasant in every way. +General Phillips and Major Barker quarreled over something, and Major +Barker preferred charges against the general, who is his company +commander, and now General Phillips is being tried here by general +court martial. Faye and I were summoned as witnesses by Major Barker, +just because we heard a few words that were said in front of our +window late one night! The court has thoughtfully excused me from +going into the court room, as I could only corroborate Faye's +testimony. I am so relieved, for it would have been a terrible ordeal +to have gone in that room where all those officers are sitting, in +full-dress uniform, too, and General Phillips with them. I would have +been too frightened to have remembered one thing, or to have known +whether I was telling the truth or not. + +General Dickinson and Ben dark, his interpreter, came up in the +ambulance with us, and the poor general is now quite ill, the result +of an ice bath in the Arkansas River! When we started to come across +on the ice here at the ford, the mule leaders broke through and fell +down on the river bottom, and being mules, not only refused to get up, +but insisted upon keeping their noses under the water. The wheelers +broke through, too, but had the good sense to stand on their feet, but +they gave the ambulance such a hard jerk that the front wheels broke +off more ice and went down to the river bottom, also. By the time all +this had occurred, I was the only one left inside, and found myself +very busy trying to keep myself from slipping down under the front +seat, where water had already come in. General Dickinson and Faye were +doing everything possible to assist the men. + +Just how it was accomplished would make too long a story to tell, but +in a short time the leaders were dragged out and on their feet, and +the rear wheels of the ambulance let down on the river bottom, and +then we were all pulled up on the ice again, and came on to the post +in safety. All but General Dickinson, who undertook to hold out of the +water the heads of the two leaders who seemed determined to commit +suicide by keeping their noses down, the general forgetting for once +that he was commanding officer. But one of those government mules did +not forget, and with a sudden jerk of his big head he pulled the +general over and down from the ice into the water, and in such a way +that he was wedged tight in between the two animals. One would have +expected much objection on the part of the mules to the fishing out of +the general, but those two mules kept perfectly still, apparently +satisfied with the mischief that had already been done. I can fancy +that there is one mule still chuckling over the fact of having gotten +even with a commanding officer! It is, quite warm now, and the ice has +gone out of the river, so there will be no trouble at the ford +to-morrow, when we start back. + +There is one company of Faye's regiment stationed here, and the +officer in command of the post is major of the Third, so we feel at +home. We are staying with Lieutenant Harvey, who is making it very +pleasant for us. Hal is with us, and is being petted by everybody, but +most of all by the cavalry officers, some of whom have hunted with +Magic, Hal's father. + +Last evening, while a number of us were sitting on the veranda after +dinner, a large turkey gobbler came Stalking down the drive in front +of the officers' quarters. Hal was squatted down, hound fashion, at +the top of the steps, and of course saw the gobbler at once. He never +moved, except to raise his ears a little, but I noticed that his eyes +opened wider and wider, and could see that he was making an estimate +of the speed of that turkey, and also making up his mind that it was +his duty as a self-respecting hound to resent the airs that were being +assumed by the queer thing with a red nose and only two legs. So as +soon as the turkey passed, down he jumped after him, and over him and +around him, until really the poor thing looked about one half his +former size. Then Hal got back of the turkey and waited for it to run, +which it proceeded to do without loss of time, and then a funny race +was on! I could have cried, I was so afraid Hal would injure the +turkey, but everyone else laughed and watched, as though it was the +sporting event of the year, and they assured me that the dog would +have to stop when he got to the very high gate at the end of the line. +But they did not know that greyhound, for the gate gave him still +another opportunity to show the thing that had wings to help its +absurd legs along what a hound puppy could do. When they reached the +gate the turkey went under, but the puppy went over, making a +magnificent jump that landed him yards in advance of the turkey, +thereby causing him the loss of the race, for before he could stop +himself and turn, the gobbler had very wisely hidden himself in a back +yard. + +There was a shouting and clapping of hands all along the line because +of the beautiful jump of so young a dog, but I must confess that all I +thought of just then was gratitude that my dog had not made an +untimely plucking of somebody's turkey, for in this country a turkey +is something rare and valuable. + +Hal came trotting back with his loftiest steps and tail high in the +air, evidently much pleased with his part in the entertainment. He is +very tall now, and ran by the ambulance all the way up, and has been +following me on my rides for some time. + +CIMARRON REDOUBT, KANSAS, +January, 1873. + +WHEN Faye was ordered here I said at once that I would come, too, and +so I came! We are at a mail station--that is, where the relay mules +are kept and where the mail wagon and escort remain overnight on their +weekly trips from Camp Supply to Fort Dodge. A non-commissioned +officer and ten privates are here all the time. + +The cause of Faye's being here is, the contractor is sending big +trains of grain down to Camp Supply for the cavalry horses and other +animals, and it was discovered that whisky was being smuggled to the +Indians in the sacks of oats. So General Dickinson sent an officer to +the redoubt to inspect each sack as it is carried past by the ox +trains. Lieutenant Cole was the first officer to be ordered up, but +the place did not agree with him, and at the end of three weeks he +appeared at the post on a mail wagon, a very sick man--very sick +indeed! In less than half an hour Faye was ordered to relieve him, to +finish Lieutenant Cole's tour in addition to his own detail of thirty +days, which will give us a stay here of over five weeks. + +As soon as I heard of the order I announced that I was coming, but it +was necessary to obtain the commanding officer's permission first. +This seemed rather hopeless for a time, the general declaring I would +"die in such a hole," where I could have no comforts, but he did not +say I should not come. Faye did not want to leave me alone at the +post, but was afraid the life here would be too rough for me, so I +decided the matter for myself and began to make preparations to come +away, and that settled all discussion. We were obliged to start early +the next morning, and there were only a few hours in which to get +ready. Packing the mess chest and getting commissary stores occupied +the most time, for after our clothing was put away the closing of the +house was a farce, "Peu de bien, peu de soin!" Farrar was permitted to +come, and we brought Hal and the horse, so the family is still +together. + +The redoubt is made of gunny sacks filled with sand, and is built on +the principle of a permanent fortification in miniature, with +bastions, flanks, curtains, and ditch, and has two pieces of +artillery. The parapet is about ten feet high, upon the top of which a +sentry walks all the time. This is technically correct, for Faye has +just explained it all to me, so I could tell you about our castle on +the plains. We have only two rooms for our own use, and these are +partitioned off with vertical logs in one corner of the fortification, +and our only roof is of canvas. + +When we first got here the dirt floor was very much like the side of a +mountain--so sloping that we had difficulty in sitting upon the +chairs. Faye had these made level at once, and fresh, dry sand +sprinkled everywhere. + +We are right in the heart of the Indian country, almost on the line +between Kansas and the Indian Territory, and are surrounded by any +number of villages of hostile Indians. We are forty miles from Camp +Supply and about the same distance from Fort Dodge. The weather is +delightful--sunny and very warm. + +I was prevented from finishing this the other day by the coming of a +dozen or more Arapahoe Indians, but as the mail does not go north +until to-morrow morning, I can tell you of the more than busy time we +have had since then. + +For two or three days the weather had been unseasonably warm--almost +like summer--and one evening it was not only hot, but so sultry one +wondered where all the air had gone. About midnight, however, a +terrific wind came up, cold and piercing, and very soon snow began to +fall, and then we knew that we were having a "Texas norther," a storm +that is feared by all old frontiersmen. Of course we were perfectly +safe from the wind, for only a cyclone could tear down these thick +walls of sand, but the snow sifted in every place--between the logs of +the inner wall, around the windows--and almost buried us. And the cold +became intense. + +In the morning the logs of that entire wall from top to bottom, were +white inside with snow, and looked like a forest in the far North. The +floor was covered with snow, and so was the foot of the bed! Our rooms +were facing just right to catch the full force of the blizzard. The +straightening-out was exceedingly unpleasant, for a fire could not be +started in either stove until after the snow had been swept out. But a +few soldiers can work miracles at times, and this proved to be one of +the times. I went over to the orderly room while they brushed and +scraped everywhere and fixed us up nicely, and we were soon warm and +dry. + +The norther continued twenty-four hours, and the cold is still +freezing. All the wood inside was soon consumed, and the men were +compelled to go outside the redoubt for it, and to split it, too. The +storm was so fierce and wholly blinding that it was necessary to +fasten the end of a rope around the waist of each man as he went out, +and tie the other end to the entrance gate to prevent him from losing +his direction and wandering out on the plains. Even with this +precaution it was impossible for a man to remain out longer than ten +minutes, because of the terribly cold wind that at times was almost +impossible to stand up against. + +Faye says that he cannot understand why the place has never been made +habitable, or why Lieutenant Cole did not have the wood brought +inside, where it would be convenient in case of a storm. Some of the +men are working at the wood still, and others are making their +quarters' a little more decent. Every tiny opening in our own log +walls has been chinked with pieces of blanket or anything that could +be found, and the entire dirt floor has been covered with clean grain +sacks that are held down smooth and tight by little pegs of wood, and +over this rough carpet we have three rugs we brought with us. At the +small window are turkey-red curtains that make very good shades when +let down at night. There are warm army blankets on the camp bed, and a +folded red squaw blanket on the trunk. The stove is as bright and +shining as the strong arm of a soldier could make it, and on it is a +little brass teakettle singing merrily. + +Altogether the little place looks clean and cheerful, quite unlike the +"hole" we came to. Farrar has attended to his part in the kitchen +also, and things look neat and orderly there. A wall tent has been +pitched just outside our door that gives us a large storeroom and at +the same time screens us from the men's quarters that are along one +side of the sandbag walls. + +On the side farthest from us the mules and horses are stabled, but one +would never know that an animal was near if those big-headed mules did +not occasionally raise their voices in brays that sound like old +squeaky pumps. When it is pleasant they are all picketed out. + +At the first coming of the blizzard the sentry was ordered from the +parapet, and is still off, and I am positive that unless one goes on +soon at night I shall be wholly deaf, because I strain my ears the +whole night through listening for Indians. The men are supposed to be +ever ready for an attack, but if they require drums and cannon to +awaken them in a garrison, how can they possibly hear the stealthy +step of an Indian here? It is foolish to expect anything so +unreasonable. + +CIMARRON REDOUBT, KANSAS, +January, 1873. + +FANCY our having given a dinner party at this sand-bag castle on the +plains, miles and miles from a white man or woman! The number of +guests was small, but their rank was immense, for we entertained +Powder-Face, Chief of the Arapahoe Nation, and Wauk, his young squaw, +mother of his little chief. + +Two or three days ago Powder-Face came to make a formal call upon the +"White Chief," and brought with him two other Indians--aides we would +call them, I presume. A soldier offered to hold his horse, but he +would not dismount, and sat his horse with grave dignity until Faye +went out and in person invited him to come in and have a smoke. He is +an Indian of striking personality--is rather tall, with square, broad +shoulders, and the poise of his head tells one at once that he is not +an ordinary savage. + +We must have found favor with him, for as he was going away he +announced that he would come again the next day and bring his squaw +with him. Then Faye, in his hospitable way, invited them to a midday +dinner! I was almost speechless from horror at the very thought of +sitting at a table with an Indian, no matter how great a chief he +might be. But I could say nothing, of course, and he rode away with +the understanding that he was to return the following day. Faye +assured me that it would be amusing to watch them, and be a break in +the monotony here. + +They appeared promptly, and I became interested in Wauk at once, for +she was a remarkable squaw. Tall and slender, with rather a thin, +girlish face, very unlike the short, fat squaws one usually sees, and +she had the appearance of being rather tidy, too. I could not tell if +she was dressed specially for the occasion, as I had never seen her +before, but everything she had on was beautifully embroidered with +beads--mostly white--and small teeth of animals. She wore a sort of +short skirt, high leggings, and of course moccasins, and around her +shoulders and falling far below her waist was a queer-shaped +garment--neither cape nor shawl--dotted closely all over with tiny +teeth, which were fastened on at one end and left to dangle. + +High up around her neck was a dog collar of fine teeth that was really +beautiful, and there were several necklaces of different lengths +hanging below it, one of which was of polished elk teeth and very +rare. The skins of all her clothing had been tanned until they were as +soft as kid. Any number of bracelets were on her arms, many of them +made of tin, I think. Her hair was parted and hung in loose ropes down +each shoulder in front. Her feet and hands were very small, even for +an Indian, and showed that life had been kind to her. I am confident +that she must have been a princess by birth, she was so different from +all squaws I have seen. She could not speak one word of English, but +her lord, whom she seemed to adore, could make himself understood very +well by signs and a word now and then. + +Powder-Face wore a blanket, but underneath it was a shirt of fine +skins, the front of which was almost covered with teeth, beads, and +wampum. His hair was roped on each side and hung in front, and the +scalp lock on top was made conspicuous by the usual long feather stuck +through it. + +The time came when dinner could no longer be put off, so we sat down. +Our menu in this place is necessarily limited, but a friend at Fort +Dodge had added to our stores by sending us some fresh potatoes and +some lettuce by the mail wagon just the day before, and both of these +Powder-Face seemed to enjoy. In fact, he ate of everything, but Wauk +was more particular--lettuce, potatoes, and ham she would not touch. +Their table manners were not of the very best form, as might be +expected, but they conducted themselves rather decently--far better +than I had feared they would. All the time I was wondering what that +squaw was thinking of things! Powder-Face was taken to Washington last +year with chiefs of other nations to see the "Great Father," so he +knew much of the white man's ways, but Wauk was a wild creature of the +plains. + +We kept them bountifully supplied with everything on the table, so our +own portion of the dinner would remain unmolested, although neither +Faye nor I had much appetite just then. When Farrar came in to remove +the plates for dessert, and Powder-Face saw that the remaining food +was about to disappear, he pushed Farrar back and commenced to attend +to the table himself. He pulled one dish after another to him, and +scraped each one clean, spreading all the butter on the bread, and +piled up buffalo steak, ham, potatoes, peas--in fact, every crumb that +had been left--making one disgusting mess, and then tapping it with +his finger said, "Papoose! Papoose!" We had it all put in a paper and +other things added, which made Wauk almost bob off her chair in her +delight at having such a feast for her little chief. But the condition +of my tablecloth made me want to bob up and down for other feelings +than delight! + +After dinner they all sat by the stove and smoked, and Powder-Face +told funny things about his trip East that we could not always +interpret, but which caused him and Wauk to laugh heartily. Wauk sat +very close to him, with elbows on her knees, looking as though she +would much prefer to be squatted down upon the floor. + +The tepee odor became stifling, so in order to get as far from the +Indians as possible, I went across the room and sat upon a small trunk +by the window. I had not been there five minutes, however, before that +wily chief, who had apparently not noticed my existence, got up from +his chair, gathered his blanket around him, and with long strides came +straight to me. Then with a grip of steel on my shoulder, he jerked me +from the trunk and fairly slung me over against the wall, and turning +to Faye with his head thrown back he said, "Whisk! Whisk!" at the same +time pointing to the trunk. + +The demand was imperious, and the unstudied poise of the powerfully +built Indian, so full of savage dignity, was magnificent. As I calmly +think of it now, the whole scene was grand. The rough room, with its +low walls of sand-bags and logs, the Indian princess in her +picturesque dress of skins and beads, the fair army officer in his +uniform of blue, both looking in astonishment at the chief, whose +square jaws and flashing eyes plainly told that he was accustomed to +being obeyed, and expected to be obeyed then! + +Faye says that I missed part of the scene; that, backed up against +sand-bags and clinging to them on either side for support, stood a +slender young woman with pigtail hanging down one shoulder, so +terrified that her face, although brown from exposure to sun and wind, +had become white and chalky. It is not surprising that my face turned +white; the only wonder is that the pigtail did not turn white, too! + +It was not right for Faye to give liquor to an Indian, but what else +could be done under the circumstances? There happened to be a flask of +brandy in the trunk, but fortunately there was only a small quantity +that we had brought up for medicinal purposes, and it was precious, +too, for we were far from a doctor. But Faye had to get it out for the +chief, who had sat there smoking in such an innocent way, but who had +all the time been studying out where there might be hidden some +"whisk!" Wauk drank almost all of it, Powder-Face seeming to derive +more pleasure in seeing her drink his portion than in drinking it +himself. Consequently, when she went out to mount her horse her steps +were a little unsteady, over which the chief laughed heartily. + +It was with the greatest relief I saw them ride away. They certainly +had furnished entertainment, but it was of a kind that would satisfy +one for a long time. I was afraid they might come for dinner again the +following day, but they did not. + +Powder-Face thought that the pony Cheyenne was not a good enough horse +for me, so the morning after he was here an Indian, called Dog, +appeared with a very good animal, large and well gaited, that the +chief had sent over, not as a present, but for a trade. + +We let poor Cheyenne go back to the Indians, a quantity of sugar, +coffee, and such things going with him, and now I have a +strawberry-roan horse named Powder-Face. + +Chief Powder-Face, who is really not old, is respected by everyone, +and has been instrumental in causing the Arapahoe nation to cease +hostilities toward white people. Some of the chiefs of lesser rank +have much of the dignity of high-born savages, particularly Lone Wolf +and his son Big Mouth, both of whom come to see us now and then. Lone +Wolf is no longer a warrior, and of course no longer wears a scalp +lock and strings of wampum and beads, and would like to have you +believe that he has ever been the white man's friend, but I suspect +that even now there might be brought forth an old war belt with +hanging scalps that could tell of massacre, torture, and murder. Big +Mouth is a war chief, and has the same grand physique as Powder-Face +and a personality almost as striking. His hair is simply splendid, +wonderfully heavy and long and very glossy. His scalp lock is most +artistic, and undoubtedly kept in order by a squaw. + +The picture of the two generations of chiefs is unique and rare. It +shows in detail the everyday dress of the genuine blanket Indians as +we see them here. Just how it was obtained I do not know, for Indians +do not like a camera. We have daily visits from dozens of so-called +friendly Indians, but I would not trust one of them. Many white people +who have lived among Indians and know them well declare that an Indian +is always an Indian; that, no matter how fine the veneering +civilization may have given him, there ever lies dormant the traits of +the savage, ready to spring forth without warning in acts of treachery +and fiendish cruelty. + +CIMARRON REDOUBT, +January, 1873. + +IT was such a pleasant surprise yesterday when General Bourke drove up +to the redoubt on his way to Camp Supply from dear old Fort Lyon. He +has been ordered to relieve General Dickinson, and was taking down +furniture, his dogs, and handsome team. Of course there was an escort, +and ever so many wagons, some loaded with tents and camp outfits. We +are rejoicing over the prospect of having an infantry officer in +command when we return to the post. The general remained for luncheon +and seemed to enjoy the broiled buffalo steak very much. He said that +now there are very few buffalo in Colorado and Kansas, because of +their wholesale slaughter by white men during the past year. These men +kill them for the skins only, and General Bourke said that he saw +hundreds of carcasses on the plains between Lyon and Dodge. They are +boldly coming to the Indian Territory now, and cavalry has been sent +out several times to drive them from the reservation. + +If the Indians should attempt to protect their rights it would be +called an uprising at once, so they have to lie around on the sand +hills and watch their beloved buffalo gradually disappear, and all the +time they know only too well that with them will go the skins that +give them tepees and clothing, and the meat that furnishes almost all +of their sustenance. + +During the blizzard two weeks ago ten or twelve of these buffalo +hunters were caught out in the storm, and being unable to find their +own camps they wandered into Indian villages, each man about half dead +from exposure to the cold and hunger. All were suffering more or less +from frozen feet and hands. In every case the Indians fed and cared +for them until the storm was over, and then they told them to go--and +go fast and far, or it would not be well with them. Faye says that it +was truly noble in the Indians to keep alive those men when they knew +they had been stealing so much from them. But Faye can always see more +good in Indians than I can. Even a savage could scarcely kill a man +when he appeals to him for protection! + +There is some kind of excitement here every day--some pleasant, some +otherwise--usually otherwise. The mail escort and wagon are here two +nights during the week, one on the way to Fort Dodge, the other on the +return trip, so we hear the little bits of gossip from each garrison. +The long trains of army wagons drawn by mules that carry stores to the +post always camp near us one night, because of the water. + +But the most exciting times are when the big ox trains come along that +are taking oats and corn to the quartermaster for the cavalry horses +and mules, for in these sacks of grain there is ever a possibility of +liquor being found. The sergeant carefully punches the sacks from one +end to the other with a long steel very much like a rifle rammer; but +so far not a thing has been found, but this is undoubtedly because +they know what to expect at this place now. Faye is always present at +the inspection, and once I watched it a short distance away. + +When there are camps outside I always feel a little more protected +from the Indians. I am kept awake hours every night by my +uncontrollable fear of their getting on top of the parapet and cutting +holes in the canvas over our very heads and getting into the room that +way. A sentry is supposed to walk around the top every few minutes, +but I have very little confidence in his protection. I really rely +upon Hal more than the sentry to give warning, for that dog can hear +the stealthy step of an Indian when a long distance from him. And I +believe he can smell them, too. + +We bought a beautiful buffalo-calf robe for a bed for him, and that +night I folded it down nicely and called him to it, thinking he would +be delighted with so soft and warm a bed. But no! He went to it +because I called him and patted it, but put one foot on it he would +not. He gave a little growl, and putting his tail up, walked away with +great dignity and a look of having been insulted. + +Of course the skin smelled strong of the tepee and Indians. We sunned +and aired it for days, and Farrar rubbed the fur with camphor and +other things to destroy the Indian odor, and after much persuading and +any amount of patience on our part, Hal finally condescended to use +the robe. He now considers it the finest thing on earth, and keeps +close watch of it at all times. + +We have visits from Indians every day, and this variation from the +monotony is not agreeable to me, but Faye goes out and has long +powwows with them. They do not hesitate to ask for things, and the +more you give the more you may. + +The other morning Faye saw a buffalo calf not far from the redoubt, +and decided to go for it, as we, also the men, were in need of fresh +meat. So he started off on Powder-Face, taking only a revolver with +him. I went outside to watch him ride off, and just as the calf +disappeared over a little hill and he after it, an Indian rode down +the bluff at the right, and about the same distance away as I thought +Faye might be, and started in a canter straight across in the +direction Faye had gone. Very soon he, also, was back of the little +hill and out of sight. + +I ran inside and called the sergeant, and was trying to explain the +situation to him as briefly as possible when he, without waiting for +me to finish, got his rifle and cartridge belt, and ordering a couple +of men to follow, started off on a hard run in the direction I had +designated. As soon as they reached the top of the hill they saw Faye, +and saw also that the Indian was with him. The men went on over +slowly, but stopped as soon as they got within rifle range of Faye, +for of course the Indian would never have attempted mischief when he +knew that the next instant he would be riddled with bullets. The +Indian was facing the soldiers and saw them at once, but they were at +Faye's back, so he did not know they were there until he turned to +come home. + +Faye says that the Indian was quite near before he saw him at all, as +he had not been thinking of Indians in his race after the little +buffalo. He came up and said "How!" of course, and then by signs asked +to see Faye's revolver, which has an ivory handle with nickel barrel +and trimmings, all of which the Indian saw at once, and decided to +make his own without loss of time, and then by disarming Faye he would +be master of things generally. + +Faye pulled the pistol from its holster and held it out for the Indian +to look at, but with a tight grip on the handle and finger on trigger, +the muzzle pointed straight to his treacherous heart. This did not +disturb the Indian in the least, for he grasped the barrel and with a +twist of the wrist tried to jerk it down and out of Faye's hand. But +this he failed to do, so, with a sarcastic laugh, he settled himself +back on his pony to await a more favorable time when he could catch +Faye off guard. He wanted that glistening pistol, and he probably +wanted the fat pony also. And thus they sat facing each other for +several minutes, the Indian apparently quite indifferent to pistols +and all things, and Faye on the alert to protect himself against the +first move of treachery. + +It would have been most unsafe for Faye to have turned from the crafty +savage, and just how long the heart-to-heart interview might have +lasted or what would have happened no one can tell if the coming in +sight of the soldiers with their long guns had not caused him to +change his tactics. After a while he grunted "How!" again, and, +assuming an air of great contempt for soldiers, guns, and shiny +pistols, rode away and soon disappeared over the bluff. There was only +the one Indian in sight, but, as the old sergeant said, "there might +have been a dozen red devils just over the bluff!" + +One never knows when the "red devils" are near, for they hide +themselves back of a bunch of sage brush, and their ponies, whose +hoofs are never shod, can get over the ground very swiftly and steal +upon you almost as noiselessly as their owners. It is needless to say +that we did not have fresh buffalo that day! And the buffalo calf ran +on to the herd wholly unconscious of his narrow escape. + +We expect to return to Camp Supply in a few days, and in many ways I +shall be sorry to leave this place. It is terrible to be so isolated, +when one thinks about it, especially if one should be ill. I shall +miss Miss Dickinson in the garrison very much, and our daily rides +together. General Dickinson and his family passed here last week on +their way to his new station. + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +February, 1873. + +UPON our return from the Cimarron we found a dear, clean house all +ready for us to move into. It was a delightful surprise, and after the +wretched huts we have been living in ever since we came to this post, +the house with its white walls and board floors seems like fairyland. +It is made of vertical logs of course, the same as the other quarters, +but these have been freshly chinked, and covered on the inside with +canvas. General Bourke ordered the quartermaster to fix the house for +us, and I am glad that Major Knox was the one to receive the order, +for I have not forgotten how disagreeable he was about the fixing up +of our first house here. One can imagine how he must have fumed over +the issuing of so much canvas, boards, and even the nails for the +quarters of only a second lieutenant! + +Many changes have been made during the few weeks General Bourke has +been here, the most important having been the separating of the white +troops from the colored when on guard duty. The officers and men of +the colored cavalry have not liked this, naturally, but it was +outrageous to put white and black in the same little guard room, and +colored sergeants over white corporals and privates. It was good cause +for desertion. But all that is at an end now. General Dickinson is no +longer commanding officer, and best of all, the colored troops have +been ordered to another department, and the two troops of white +cavalry that are to relieve them are here now and in camp not far from +the post, waiting for the barracks to be vacated. + +We have felt very brave since the camp has been established, and two +days ago several of us drove over to a Cheyenne village that is a mile +or so up the creek. But soon after we got there we did not feel a bit +brave, for we had not been out of the ambulance more than five +minutes, when one of their criers came racing in on a very wet pony, +and rode like mad in and out among the tepees, all the time screaming +something at the top of his voice. + +Instantly there was a jabbering by all of them and great commotion. +Each Indian talked and there seemed to be no one to listen. Several +tepees were taken down wonderfully quick, and a number of ponies were +hurried in, saddled, and ridden away at race speed, a few squaws +wailing as they watched them go, guns in their hands. Other squaws +stood around looking at us, and showing intense hatred through their +wicked eyes. It was soon discovered by all of us that the village was +really not attractive, and four scared women came back to the garrison +as fast as government mules could bring them! What was the cause of so +much excitement we will probably never know--and of course we should +not have gone there without an officer, and yet, what could one man +have done against all those savages! + +We were honored by a visit from a chief the other day. He was a +Cheyenne from the village, presumably, and his name was White Horse. +He must have been born a chief for he was young, very dignified, and +very good-looking, too, for an Indian. Of course his face was painted +in a hideous way, but his leggings and clothing generally were far +more tidy than those of most Indians. His chest was literally covered +with polished teeth of animals, beads, and wampum, arranged +artistically in a sort of breastplate, and his scalp lock, which had +evidently been plaited with much care, was ornamented with a very +beautiful long feather. + +Fortunately Faye was at home when he came, for he walked right in, +unannounced, except the usual "How!" Faye gave him a chair, and this +he placed in the middle of the room in a position so he could watch +both doors, and then his rifle was laid carefully upon the floor at +his right side. He could speak his name, but not another word of +English, so, thinking to entertain him, Faye reached for a rifle that +was standing in one corner of the room to show him, as it was of a +recent make. Although the rifle was almost at the Indian's back the +suspicious savage saw what Faye was doing, and like a flash he seized +his own gun and laid it across his knees, all the time looking +straight at Faye to see what he intended to do next. Not a muscle of +his race moved, but his eyes were wonderful, brilliant, and piercing, +and plainly said, "Go ahead, I'm ready!" + +I saw the whole performance and was wondering if I had not better run +for assistance, when Faye laughed, and motioned the Indian to put his +rifle down again, at the same time pulling the trigger of his own to +assure him that it was not loaded. This apparently satisfied him, but +he did not put his gun back on the floor, but let it rest across his +knees all the time he sat there. And that was for the longest +time--and never once did he change his position, turn his head, or, as +we could see, move an eyelid! But nevertheless he made one feel that +it was not necessary for him to turn his head--that it was all eyes, +that he could see up and down and across and could read one's very +thoughts, too. + +The Indian from whom we bought Powder-Face--his name is Dog, you will +remember--has found us out, and like a dog comes every day for +something to eat. He always walks right into the kitchen; if the door +is closed he opens it. If he is not given things he stands around with +the greatest patience, giving little grunts now and then, and watches +Farrar until the poor soldier becomes worn out and in self-defense +gives him something, knowing full well all the time that trouble is +being stored up for the next day. The Indian never seems cross, but +smiles at everything, which is most unusual in a savage. + +With the white cavalry is a classmate of Faye's, Lieutenant Isham, and +yesterday I went out to camp with him and rode his horse, a large, +spirited animal. It was the horse's first experience with a side +saddle, and at first he objected to the habit and jumped around and +snorted quite a little, but he soon saw that I was really not a +dangerous person and quieted down. + +As Lieutenant Isham and I were cantering along at a nice brisk gait we +met Faye, who was returning from the camp on Powder-Face, and it could +be plainly seen that he disapproved of my mount. But he would not turn +back with us, however, and we went on to camp without him. There is +something very fascinating about a military camp--it is always so +precise and trim--the little tents for the men pitched in long +straight lines, each one looking as though it had been given especial +attention, and with all things is the same military precision and +neatness. It was afternoon stables and we rode around to the picket +lines to watch the horses getting their grooming. + +When I got home Faye was quick to tell me that I would certainly be +killed if I continued to ride every untrained horse that came along! +Not a very pleasant prospect for me; but I told him that I did not +want to mortify him and myself, too, by refusing to mount horses that +his own classmates, particularly those in the cavalry, asked me to +ride, and that I knew very well he would much prefer to see me on a +spirited animal than a "gentle ladies' horse" that any inexperienced +rider could manage. So we decided that the horse, after all, was not a +vicious beast, and I am to ride him again to-morrow. + +Last evening we gave a delightful little dance in the hall in honor of +the officers and their wives who are to go, and the officers who have +come. We all wore our most becoming gowns, and anyone unacquainted +with army life on the frontier would have been surprised to see what +handsome dresses can be brought forth, even at this far-away post, +when occasion demands. There are two very pretty girls from the East +visiting in the garrison, and several of the wives of officers are +young and attractive, and the mingling of the pretty faces and +bright-colored dresses with the dark blue and gold of the uniforms +made a beautiful scene. It is not in the least surprising that girls +become so silly over brass buttons. Even the wives get silly over them +sometimes! + +CAMP SUPPLY, INDIAN TERRITORY, +April, 1873. + +IN the last mail Faye heard from his application for transfer to +another company, and the order will be issued as soon as the +lieutenant in that company has been promoted, which will be in a few +weeks. This will take us back to Fort Lyon with old friends, and Faye +to a company whose captain is a gentleman. He was one of Faye's +instructors at West Point. + +I have a new horse--and a lively one, too--so lively that I have not +ridden him yet. He was a present from Lieutenant Isham, and the way in +which he happened to possess him makes a pretty little story. The +troop had been sent out on a scout, and was on its way back to the +post to be paid, when one evening this pony trotted into camp and at +once tried to be friendly with the cavalry horses, but the poor thing +was so frightfully hideous with its painted coat the horses would not +permit him to come near them for some time. But the men caught him and +brought him on to the stables, where there was trouble at once, for +almost every man in the troop claimed ownership. So it was finally +decided by the captain that as soon as the troop had been paid the +horse should be raffled, that each man in that one troop could have +the privilege of buying a chance at one dollar, and that the money +should go in the troop fund. This arrangement delighted the men, as it +promised something new in the way of a frolic. + +In due time the paymaster arrived, the men were paid, and then in a +few minutes there was brisk business going on over at the quarters of +the troop! Every enlisted man in the troop--sergeants, corporals, and +privates, eighty-four in all--bought a chance, thus making a fine sum +for the fund. A private won the horse, of whom Lieutenant Isham +immediately bought him and presented him to me. + +He is about fifteen hands high and not in the least of a pony build, +but is remarkably slender, with fine head and large intelligent eyes. +Just what his color is we do not know, for he is stained in red-brown +stripes all over his body, around his legs, and on his face, but we +think he is a light gray. When he wandered to camp, a small bell was +tied around his neck with a piece of red flannel, and this, with his +having been so carefully stained, indicates almost conclusively that +he was a pet. Some of the soldiers insist that he was a race pony, +because he is not only very swift, but has been taught to take three +tremendous jumps at the very beginning of his run, which gives him an +immense advantage, but which his rider may sometimes fail to +appreciate. These jumps are often taught the Indian race ponies. The +horse is gentle with Faye and is certainly graceful, but he is hard to +hold and inclined to bolt, so I will not try him until he becomes more +civilized. + +The Indians are very bold again. A few days ago Lieutenant Golden was +in to luncheon, and while we were at the table we saw several Kiowas +rush across the creek and stampede five or six horses that belonged to +our milkman, who has a ranch just outside the garrison. In a few +minutes an orderly appeared with an order for Lieutenant Golden and +ten men to go after them without delay, and bring the horses back. + +Of course he started at once, and chased those Indians all the +afternoon, and got so close to them once or twice that they saw the +necessity of lightening the weight on their tired ponies, and threw +off their old saddles and all sorts of things, even little bags of +shot, but all the time they held on to their guns and managed to keep +the stolen horses ahead of them. They had extra ponies, too, that they +swung themselves over on when the ridden beasts began to lag a little. +When night came on Lieutenant Golden was compelled to give up the +chase, and had to return to the post without having recovered one of +the stolen horses. + +One never knows here what dreadful things may come up any moment. +Everything was quiet and peaceful when we sat down to luncheon, yet in +less than ten minutes we saw the rush of the Indians and the stampede +of the milkman's horses right from our dining-room window. The horses +were close to the post too. Splendid cavalry horses were sent after +them, but it requires a very swift horse to overtake those tough +little Indian ponies at any time, and the Kiowas probably were on +their best ponies when they stampeded the horses, for they knew, +undoubtedly, that cavalry would soon be after them. + +DODGE CITY, KANSAS, +June, 1873. + +WE reached this place yesterday, expecting to take the cars this +morning for Granada, but the servant who was to have come from Kansas +City on that train will not be here until to-morrow. When the time +came to say good-by, I was sorry to leave a number of the friends at +Camp Supply, particularly Mrs. Hunt, with whom we stayed the last few +days, while we were packing. Everyone was at the ambulance to see us +off--except the Phillips family. + +We were three days coming up, because of one or two delays the very +first day. One of the wagons broke down soon after we left the post, +and an hour or so was lost in repairing it, and at Buffalo Creek we +were delayed a long time by an enormous herd of buffalo. It was a +sight that probably we will never see again. The valley was almost +black with the big animals, and there must have been hundreds and +hundreds of them on either side of the road. They seemed very +restless, and were constantly moving about instead of grazing upon the +buffalo grass, which is unusually fine along that valley, and this +made us suspect that they had been chased and hunted until the small +bands had been driven together into one big herd. Possibly the hunters +had done this themselves, so the slaughter could be the greater and +the easier. It is remarkable that such grand-looking beasts should +have so little sense as to invariably cross the road right in front of +moving teams, and fairly challenge one to make targets of them. It was +this crossing of large numbers that detained us so long yesterday. + +When we got out about fifteen miles on the road, an Apache Indian +appeared, and so suddenly that it seemed as if he must have sprung up +from the ground. He was in full war dress--that is, no dress at all +except the breech clout and moccasins--and his face and whole naked +body were stained in many colors in the most hideous manner. In his +scalp lock was fastened a number of eagle feathers, and of course he +wore two or three necklaces of beads and wampum. There was nothing +unusual about the pony he was riding, except that it was larger and in +better condition than the average Indian horse, but the one he was +leading--undoubtedly his war horse--was a most beautiful animal, one +of the most beautiful I ever saw. + +The Apache evidently appreciated the horse, for he had stained only +his face, but this had been made quite as frightful as that of the +Indian. The pony was of a bright cream color, slender, and with a +perfect head and small ears, and one could see that he was quick and +agile in every movement. He was well groomed, too. The long, heavy +mane had been parted from ears to withers, and then twisted and roped +on either side with strips of some red stuff that ended in long +streamers, which were blown out in a most fantastic way when the pony +was running. The long tail was roped only enough to fasten at the top +a number of strips of the red that hung almost to the ground over the +hair. Imagine all this savage hideousness rushing upon you--on a +yellow horse with a mane of waving red! His very presence on an +ordinary trotting pony was enough to freeze the blood in one's veins. + +That he was a spy was plainly to be seen, and we knew also that his +band was probably not far away. He seemed in very good spirits, asked +for "tobac," and rode along with us some distance--long enough to make +a careful estimate of our value and our strength. Finally he left us +and disappeared over the hills. Then the little escort of ten men +received orders from Faye to be on the alert, and hold themselves and +their rifles ready for a sudden attack. + +We rode on and on, hoping to reach the Cimarron Redoubt before dark, +but that had to be given up and camp was made at Snake Creek, ten +miles the other side. Not one Indian had been seen on the road except +the Apache, and this made us all the more uncomfortable. Snake Creek +was where the two couriers were shot by Indians last summer, and that +did not add to our feelings of security--at least not mine. We were in +a little coulee, too, where it would have been an easy matter for +Indians to have sneaked upon us. No one in the camp slept much that +night, and most of the men were walking post to guard the animals. And +those mules! I never heard mules, and horses also, sneeze and cough +and make so much unnecessary noise as those animals made that night. +And Hal acted like a crazy dog--barking and growling and rushing out +of the tent every two minutes, terrifying me each time with the fear +that he might have heard the stealthy step of a murderous savage. + +Everyone lived through the night, however, but we were all glad to +make an early start, so before daylight we were on the road. The old +sergeant agreed with Faye in thinking that we were in a trap at the +camp, and should move on early. We did not stop at the Redoubt, but I +saw as we passed that the red curtains were still at the little +window. + +It seems that we are not much more safe in this place than we were in +camp in an Indian country. The town is dreadful and has the reputation +of being one of the very worst in the West since the railroad has been +built. They say that gamblers and all sorts of "toughs" follow a new +road. After breakfast this morning we started for a walk to give Hal a +little run, but when we got to the office the hotel proprietor told us +that the dog must be led, otherwise he would undoubtedly be stolen +right before our eyes. Faye said: "No one would dare do such a thing; +I would have him arrested." But the man said there was no one here who +would make the arrest, as there certainly would be two or more +revolvers to argue with first, and in any case the dog would be lost +to us, for if the thief saw that he could not hold him the dog would +undoubtedly be shot. Just imagine such a thing! So Hal was led by his +chain, but he looked so abused and miserable, and I was so frightened +and nervous, our outing was short, and here we are shut up in our +little room. + +We can see the car track from the window, and I wonder how it will +seem to go over in a car, the country that we came across in wagons +only one year ago. From Granada we will go to the post in an +ambulance, a distance of forty or more miles. But a ride of fifty +miles over these plains has no terrors for me now. The horses, +furniture, and other things went on in a box car this morning. It is +very annoying to be detained here so long, and I am a little worried +about that girl. The telegram says she was too sick to start +yesterday. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +June, 1873. + +IT has been impossible for me to write before, for I have been more +than busy, both day and night, ever since we got here. The servant for +whom we waited at Dodge City, and who I had hoped would be a great +assistance to me in getting settled, came to us very ill--almost too +ill to be brought over from Granada. But we could not leave her there +with no one to take care of her, and of course I could not remain with +her, so there was nothing else to be done--we had to bring her along. +We had accepted Mrs. Wilder's invitation to stay with them a few days +until we could get settled a little, but all that was changed when we +got here, for we were obliged to come directly to our own house, +unpack camp bedding and the mess chest, and do the best we could for +ourselves and the sick girl. + +The post surgeon told us as soon as he had examined the girl that she +had tuberculosis in almost its last stage, and that she was threatened +with double pneumonia! So you can imagine what I have been through in +the way of nursing, for there was no one in the garrison who would +come to assist me. The most unpleasant part of it all is, the girl is +most ungrateful for all that is being done for her, and finds fault +with many things. She has admitted to the doctor that she came to us +for her health; that as there are only two in the family, she thought +there would be so little for her to do she could ride horseback and be +out of doors most of the time! What a nice arrangement it would have +been--this fine lady sitting out on our lawn or riding one of our +horses, and I in the kitchen preparing the dinner, and then at the end +of the month humbly begging her to accept a little check for thirty +dollars! + +We have an excellent soldier cook, but the care of that miserable girl +falls upon me, and the terrible experience we passed through at Dodge +City has wholly unfitted me for anything of the kind. The second night +we were there, about one o'clock, we were awakened by loud talking and +sounds of people running; then shots were fired very near, and +instantly there were screams of agony, "I'm shot! I'm shot!" from some +person who was apparently coming across the street, and who fell +directly underneath our window. We were in a little room on the second +floor, and its one window was raised far up, which made it possible +for us to hear the slightest sound or movement outside. + +The shooting was kept up until after the man was dead, many of the +bullets hitting the side of the hotel. It was simply maddening to have +to stay in that room and be compelled to listen to the moans and death +gurgle of that murdered man, and hear him cry, "Oh, my lassie, my poor +lassie!" as he did over and over again, until he could no longer +speak. It seemed as though every time he tried to say one word, there +was the report of a pistol. After he was really dead we could hear the +fiends running off, and then other people came and carried the body +away. + +The shooting altogether did not last longer than five or ten minutes, +and at almost the first shot we could hear calls all over the wretched +little town of "Vigilante! Vigilante!" and knew that the vigilantes +were gathering, but before they could get together the murderous work +had been finished. All the time there had been perfect silence +throughout the hotel. The proprietor told us that he got up, but that +it would have been certain death if he or anyone else had opened a +door. + +Hal was on the floor in a corner of our room, and began to growl after +the very first scream, and I was terrified all the time for fear he +would go to the open window and attract the attention of those +murderers below, who would undoubtedly have commenced firing at the +window and perhaps have killed all of us. But the moans of the dying +man frightened the dog awfully, and he crawled under the bed, where he +stayed during the rest of the horrible night. The cause of all the +trouble seems to have been that a colored man undertook to carry in +his wagon three or four men from Dodge City to Fort Dodge, a distance +of five miles, but when he got out on the road a short distance he +came to the conclusion, from their talk, that they were going to the +post for evil purposes, and telling them that he would take them no +farther, he turned his team around to come back home. On the way back +the men must have threatened him, for when he got in town he drove to +the house of some colored people who live on a corner across from the +hotel and implored them to let him in, but they were afraid and +refused to open the door, for by that time the men were shooting at +him. + +The poor man ran across the street, leaving a trail of blood that +streamed from his wounds, and was brutally killed under our window. +Early the next morning, when we crossed the street to go to the cars, +the darky's mule was lying on the ground, dead, near the corner of the +hotel, and stuck on one long ear was the murdered man's hat. Soon +after we reached Granada a telegram was received giving an account of +the affair, and saying also that in less than one half hour after the +train had passed through, Dodge City was surrounded by troops of +United States cavalry from Fort Dodge, that the entire town was +searched for the murderers, but that not even a trace of one had been +discovered. + +When I got inside a car the morning after that awful, awful night, it +was with a feeling that I was leaving behind me all such things and +that by evening I would be back once more at our old army home and +away from hostile Indians, and hostile desperadoes too. But when I saw +that servant girl with the pale, emaciated face and flushed cheeks, so +ill she could barely sit up, my heart went down like lead and Indians +seemed small trials in comparison to what I saw ahead of me. + +Well, she will go in a few days, and then I can give the house some +attention. The new furniture and china are all here, but nothing has +been done in the way of getting settled. The whole coming back has +been cruelly disappointing, and I am so tired and nervous I am afraid +of my own shadow. So after a while I think I will go East for a few +weeks, which I know you will be glad to hear. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +August, 1873. + +WE have just come in from a drive to the Purgatoire with Colonel +Knight behind his handsome horses. It makes me sad, always, to go over +that familiar road and to scenes that are so closely associated with +my learning to ride and shoot when we were here before. The small tree +that was my target is dead but still standing, and on it are several +little pieces of the white paper bull's eyes that Faye and Lieutenant +Baldwin tacked on it for me. + +We often see poor Tom. The post trader bought him after Lieutenant +Baldwin's death, so the dear horse would always have good care and not +be made to bring and carry for a cruel master. He wanders about as he +chooses and is fat, but the coat that was once so silky and glossy is +now dull and faded, and the horse looks spiritless and dejected. Poor +Tom! The greyhound, Magic, still remembers their many, many hunts +together when the horse would try to outrun the dog, and the hound +often goes out to make him little visits, and the sight is pathetic. +That big dog of the chaplain's is still here, and how the good man can +conscientiously have him about, I cannot understand. + +Colonel Knight has two large dogs also, but they are shut in the +stable most of the time to guard his pair of valuable horses. The +horses are not particularly fast or spirited, but they are very +beautiful and perfectly matched in color and gait. + +Ever since Hal has been old enough to run with a horse, he has always +gone with me riding or driving. So the first time we drove with +Colonel Knight I called Hal to go with us and he ran out of the house +and over the fence with long joyful bounds, to be instantly pounced +upon, and rolled over into the acequia by the two big dogs of Colonel +Knight's that I had not even heard of! Hal has splendid fighting blood +and has never shown cowardice, but he is still a young dog and +inexperienced, and no match for even one old fighter, and to have two +notoriously savage, bloodthirsty beasts gnawing at him as though he +was a bone was terrible. But Hal apparently never thought of running +from them, and after the one howl of surprise gave his share of +vicious growls and snaps. But the old dogs were protected by their +heavy hair, while Hal's short coat and fine skin were easily torn. + +We all rushed to his rescue, for it looked as though he would be torn +in pieces, and when I saw a long cut in his tender skin I was frantic. +But finally the two black dogs were pulled off and Hal was dragged out +of the ditch and back to the house, holding back and growling all the +time, which showed plainly he was not satisfied with the way the +affair had ended. The drive that day I did not enjoy! + +Hal was not torn so deeply as to have unsightly scars, for which I was +thankful. From that day on, however, he not only hated those dogs, but +disliked the man who cares for them, and seemed to consider him +responsible for their very existence. And it was wonderful that he +should recognize Cressy's step on the ground as he passed at the side +of our house. Several times when he would be stretched out on the +floor, to all appearances fast asleep, I have seen him open his eyes +wide and growl when the man and dogs were passing, although it was +perfectly impossible for him to have seen them. + +One morning about ten days ago when I was on the second floor, I heard +an awful noise downstairs--whines, growls, and howls all so mingled +together one would have thought there were a dozen dogs in the house. +I ran down to see what could possibly be the matter, and found Hal at +a window in the dining room that looked out on the back yard, every +hair on his brindled back standing straight up and each white tooth +showing. Looking out I saw that Turk, the more savage of the two black +dogs, was in the yard and could not get out over the high board fence. +Cressy was probably on guard that day, and sentry over the prisoners +who had brought water. The dog must have followed him in and then +managed to get left. + +Hal looked up at me, and for one instant kept perfectly still, waiting +to see what I would do. His big brown eyes were almost human in their +beseeching, and plainly said, "You cannot have forgotten--you will +surely let me out!" And let him out I did. I opened the doors leading +to the yard, and almost pushing me over he rushed to the black dog +with great leaps and the most blood-curdling growls, jumping straight +over him, then around him, then over him again and again, and so like +a whirlwind, the poor black beast was soon crazy, for snap as fast as +he might, it was ever at the clear, beautiful air. Hal was always just +out of reach. + +After he had worried the dog all he wanted to Hal proceeded to +business. With a greyhound trick, he swung himself around with great +force and knocked the big dog flat upon the ground, and holding him +down with his two paws he pulled out mouthful after mouthful of long +hair, throwing it out of his mouth right and left. If the dog +attempted to raise his big head Hal was quick to give a wicked snap +that made the head fall down again. When I saw that Hal had actually +conquered the dog and had proved that he-was the splendid hound I had +ever considered him to be, I told West to go out at once and separate +them. But for the very first time West was slow--he went like a snail. +It seemed that one of the dogs had snapped at his leg once, and I +believe he would have been delighted if Hal had gnawed the dog flesh +and bone. He pulled Hal in by his collar and opened the gate for Turk, +and soon things were quite once more. + +All that day Hal's eyes were like stars, and one could almost see a +grin on his mouth. He was ever on the alert, and would frequently look +out on the yard, wag his tail and growl. The strangest thing about it +all is, that not once since that morning has he paid the slightest +attention to Cressy or the two dogs, except to growl a little when +they have happened to meet. Turk must have told his companion about +the fight, for he, too, finds attractions in another direction when he +sees Hal coming. + +Some of our friends have found pleasure in teasing me about my +sporting taste, private arena, and so on, but I do not mind so very +much, since the fight brought about peace, and proved that Hal has +plenty of pluck. Those two Knight dogs are looked upon as savage +wolves by every mother in the garrison, and when it is known that they +are out, mothers and nurses run to gather in their small people. + +Hal has developed a taste for hunting that has been giving trouble +lately, when he has run off with Magic and the other hounds. So now he +is chained until after guard mounting, by which time the pack has +gone. The signal officer of the department was here the other day when +Faye and men from the company were out signaling, and after luncheon I +told West to go out to him on Powder-Face and lead King, so he could +ride the horse in, instead of coming in the wagon with the men. Late +in the afternoon West came back and reported that he had been unable +to find Faye, and then with much hesitation and choking he told me +that he had lost Hal! + +He said that as they had gone up a little hill, they had surprised a +small band of antelope that were grazing rather near on the other +side, and that the hound started after them like a streak, pulling one +down before they had crossed the lowland, and then, not being +satisfied, he had raced on again after the band that had disappeared +over a hill farther on. That was the last he saw of him. West said +that he wanted to bring the dead antelope to the post, but could not, +as both horses objected to it. + +My heart was almost broken over the loss of my dog, and I started for +my own room to indulge in a good cry when, as I passed the front door +that was open, I happened to look out, and there, squatted down on the +walk to the gate was Hal! I ran out to pet him, but drew back in +horror when I saw the condition he was in. His long nose and all of +his white chest were covered with a thick coating of coarse antelope +hair plastered in with dried blood. The dog seemed too tired to move, +and sat there with a listless, far-away look that made me wish he +could tell all about his hunt, and if he had lost the second poor +little antelope. West almost danced from joy when he saw him, and lost +no time in giving him a bath and putting him in his warm bed. +Greyhounds are often great martyrs to rheumatism, and Deacon, one of +the pack, will sometimes howl from pain after a hunt. And the howl of +a greyhound is far-reaching and something to be remembered. + +Very soon now I will be with you! Faye has decided to close the house +and live with the bachelors while I am away. This will be much more +pleasant for him than staying here all alone. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +October, 1873. + +THE trip out was tiresome and seemed endless, but nothing worth +mentioning happened until I got to Granada, where Faye met me with an +ambulance and escort wagon. It was after two o'clock in the morning +when the train reached the station, and as it is the terminus of the +road, every passenger left the car. I waited a minute for Faye to come +in, but as he did not I went out also, feeling that something was +wrong. + +Just as I stepped off the car, Mr. Davis, quartermaster's clerk, +appeared and took my satchel, assuring me that Faye was right there +waiting for me. This was so very unlike Faye's way of doing things, +that at once I suspected that the real truth was not being told. But I +went with him quickly through the little crowd, and on up the +platform, and then I saw Faye. He was standing at one corner of the +building--all alone, and I recognized him instantly by the long +light-blue overcoat and big campaign hat with brim turned up. + +And I saw also, standing on the corner of the platform in front of +him, a soldier with rifle in hand, and on the end of it glistening in +the moonlight was a long bayonet! I had lived with troops long enough +to know that the bayonet would not be there unless the soldier was a +sentry guarding somebody or something. I naturally turned toward Faye, +but was held back by Mr. Davis, and that made me indignant, but Faye +at once said quietly and in a voice just loud enough for me to hear, +"Get in the ambulance and ask no questions!" And still he did not move +from the corner. By this time I was terribly frightened and more and +more puzzled. Drawn up close to the farther side of the platform was +an ambulance, also an escort wagon, in which sat several soldiers, and +handing my trunk checks to Mr. Davis, I got, into the ambulance, my +teeth chattering as though I had a chill. + +The very instant the trunks were loaded Faye and the sentry came, and +after ordering the corporal to keep his wagon and escort close to us, +and telling me to drop down in the bottom of the ambulance if I heard +a shot, Faye got on the ambulance also, but in front with the driver. +Leaning forward, I saw that one revolver was in his hand and the other +on the seat by his side. In this way, and in perfect silence, we rode +through the town and until we were well out on the open plain, when we +stopped just long enough for Faye to get inside, and a soldier from +the wagon to take his seat by the driver. + +Then Faye told me of what had occurred to make necessary all these +precautions. He had come over from Fort Lyon the day before, and had +been with Major Carroll, the depot quartermaster, during the afternoon +and evening. The men had established a little camp just at the edge of +the miserable town where the mules could be guarded and cared for. + +About nine o'clock Faye and Mr. Davis started out for a walk, but +before they had gone far Faye remembered that he had left his pistols +and cartridge belt on a desk in the quartermaster's office, and +fearing they might be stolen they went back for them. He put the +pistols on underneath his heavy overcoat, as the belt was quite too +short to fasten outside. + +Well, he and Mr. Davis walked along slowly in the bright moonlight +past the many saloons and gambling places, never once thinking of +danger, when suddenly from a dark passageway a voice said, "You are +the man I want," and bang! went a pistol shot close to Faye's head--so +close, in fact, that as he ducked his head down, when he saw the +pistol pointed at him, the rammer slot struck his temple and cut a +deep hole that at once bled profusely. Before Faye could get out one +of his own pistols from underneath the long overcoat, another shot was +fired, and then away skipped Mr. Davis, leaving Faye standing alone in +the brilliant moonlight. As soon as Faye commenced to shoot, his +would-be assassin came out from the dark doorway and went slowly along +the walk, taking good care, however, to keep himself well in the +shadow of the buildings. + +They went on down the street shooting back and forth at each other, +Faye wondering all the time why he could not hit the man. Once he got +him in front of a restaurant window where there was a bright light +back of him, and, taking careful aim, he thought the affair could be +ended right there, but the ball whizzed past the man and went crashing +through the window and along the tables, sending broken china right +and left. Finally their pistols were empty, and Faye drew out a +second, at the sight of which the man started to run and disappeared +in the shadows. + +As soon as the shooting ceased men came out from all sorts of places, +and there was soon a little crowd around Faye, asking many questions, +but he and Major Carroll went to a drug store, where his wounds could +be dressed. For some time it was thought there must be a ball in the +deep hole in his temple. When Faye had time to think he understood why +he had done such poor shooting. He is an almost sure shot, but always +holds his pistol in his left hand, and of course aims with his left +eye. But that night his left eye was filled with blood the very first +thing from the wound in his left temple, which forced him +unconsciously to aim with his right eye, which accounts for the wild +shots. + +The soldiers heard of the affair in camp, and several came up on a run +and stood guard at the drug store. A rumor soon got around that Oliver +had gone off to gather some of his friends, and they would soon be at +the store to finish the work. Very soon, however, a strange man came +in, much excited, and said, "Lieutenant! Oliver's pals are getting +ready to attack you at the depot as the train comes in," and out he +went. The train was due at two o'clock A. M., and this caused Faye +four hours of anxiety. He learned that the man who shot at him was +"Billy Oliver," a horse thief and desperado of the worst type, and +that he was the leader of a band of horse thieves that was then in +town. To be threatened by men like those was bad enough in itself, but +Faye knew that I would arrive on that train. That was the cause of so +much caution when the train came in. There were several rough-looking +men at the station, but if they had intended mischief, the long +infantry rifles in the hands of drilled soldiers probably persuaded +them to attend to their own affairs. A man told the corporal, however, +that Oliver's friends had decided not to kill Faye at the station, but +had gone out on horseback to meet him on the road. This was certainly +misery prolonged. + +The mules were driven through the town at an ordinary gait, but when +we got on the plain they were put at a run, and for miles we came at +that pace. The little black shaved-tails pulled the ambulance, and I +think that for once they had enough run. The moonlight was wonderfully +bright, and for a long distance objects could be seen, and bunches of +sage bush and Spanish bayonet took the forms of horsemen, and +naturally I saw danger in every little thing we passed. + +One thing occurred that night that deserves mentioning. Some one told +the soldiers that Oliver was hidden in a certain house, and one of +them, a private, started off without leave, and all alone for that +house. When he got there the entire building was dark, not a light in +it, except that of the moon which streamed in through two small +windows. But the gritty soldier went boldly in and searched every +little room and every little corner, even the cellar, but not a living +thing was found. It may have been brave, but it was a dreadful thing +for the trooper to do, for he so easily could have been murdered in +the darkness, and Faye and the soldiers never have known what had +become of him. Colonel Bissell declares that the man shall be made a +corporal upon the first vacancy. + +The man Oliver was in the jail at Las Animas last summer for stealing +horses. The old jail was very shaky, and while it was being made more +secure, he and another man--a wife murderer--were brought to the +guardhouse at this post. They finally took them back, and Oliver +promptly made his escape, and the sheriff had actually been afraid to +re-arrest him. We have all begged Faye to get out a warrant for the +man, but he says it would simply be a farce, that the sheriff would +pay no attention to it. The whole left side of Faye's face is badly +swollen and very painful, and the wound in his ankle compels him to +use a cane. Just how the man managed to shoot Faye in the ankle no one +seems to understand. + +Granada must be a terrible place! The very afternoon Faye was there a +Mexican was murdered in the main street, but not the slightest +attention was paid to the shooting--everything went right on as though +it was an everyday occurrence. The few respectable people are afraid +even to try to keep order. + +Dodge City used to be that way and there was a reign of terror in the +town, until finally the twelve organized vigilantes became desperate +and took affairs in their own hands. They notified six of the leading +desperadoes that they must be out of the place by a certain day and +hour. Four went, but two were defiant and remained. When the specified +hour had passed, twelve double-barreled shotguns were loaded with +buckshot, and in a body the vigilantes hunted these men down as they +would mad dogs and riddled each one through and through with the big +shot! It was an awful thing to do, but it seems to have been +absolutely necessary and the only way of establishing law and order. +Our friends at Fort Dodge tell us that the place is now quite decent, +and that a man can safely walk in the streets without pistols and a +belt full of cartridges. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +October, 1873. + +ONE naturally looks for all sorts of thrilling experiences when out on +the frontier, but to have men and things mix themselves up in a +maddening way in one's very own house, as has recently been done in +mine, is something not usually counted upon. To begin with, Mrs. Rae +is with us, and her coming was not only most unlocked for up to two +days ago, but through a wretched mistake in a telegram she got here +just twenty-four hours before we thought she would arrive. Ordinarily +this would have been a delightful surprise, but, unfortunately, things +had begun to "mix!" + +Faye had suffered so much from the wound in his head that very little +attention had been given the house since my return from the East, +therefore it was not in the very best of order. It was closed during +my two months' absence, as Faye had lived down with the bachelors. The +very day that Mrs. Rae came the quartermaster had sent a man to repair +one of the chimneys, and plaster and dirt had been left in my room, +the one I had intended Mrs. Rae to occupy. And then, to make matters +just as bad as possible, there was a sand storm late in the afternoon +that had, of course, sifted dust over all things. + +But this was not all! My nerves had not recovered from the shock at +Granada, and had given out entirely that day just before dinner, and +had sent me to bed with an uncomfortable chill. Still, I was not +disheartened. Before I went East many things had been put away, but +West had unpacked and polished the silver several days before, and the +glass was shining and the china closets in perfect order, all of which +had been attended to with my own hands. Besides, the wife of one of +the sergeants was to come the next morning to dust and clean the +little house from top to bottom, so there was really nothing to worry +about, as everything would be in order long before time for the stage +to arrive that would bring Mrs. Rae. + +But after the chill came a fever, and with the fever came dreams, most +disturbing dreams, in which were sounds of crunching gravel, then +far-away voices--voices that I seemed to have heard in another world. +A door was opened, and then--oh! how can I ever tell you--in the hall +came Faye's mother! By that time dreams had ceased, and it was cruel +reality that had to be faced, and even now I wonder how I lived +through the misery of that moment--the longing to throw myself out of +the window, jump in the river, do anything, in fact, but face the +mortification of having her see the awful condition of her son's +house! + +Her son's house--that was just it. I did not care at all for myself, +my only thought was for Faye whose mother might find cause to pity him +for the delinquencies of his wife! First impressions are indelible, +and it would be difficult to convince Mrs. Rae ever that the house was +not always dusty and untidy. How could she know that with pride I had +ever seen that our house, however rough it might have been, was clean +and cheerful. And of what use would it be to arrange things +attractively now? She would be justified in supposing that it was only +in its company dress. + +I was weak and dizzy from fever and a sick heart, but I managed to get +dressed and go down to do the best I could. West prepared a little +supper, and we made things as comfortable as possible, considering the +state of affairs. Mrs. Rae was most lovely about everything--said she +understood it all. But that could not be, not until she had seen one +of our sand storms, from the dust of which it is impossible to protect +a thing. I have been wishing for a storm ever since, so Mrs. Rae could +see that I was not responsible for the condition of things that night. + +Now this was not all--far, far from it. On the way out in the cars, +Mrs. Rae met the colonel of the regiment--a real colonel, who is +called a colonel, too--who was also on his way to this post, and with +him was Lieutenant Whittemore, a classmate of Faye's. Colonel +Fitz-James was very courteous to Mrs. Rae, and when they reached Kit +Carson he insisted upon her coming over with him in the ambulance that +had been sent to meet him. This was very much more comfortable than +riding in the old stage, so she gladly accepted, and to show her +appreciation of the kindness, she invited the colonel, also Lieutenant +Whittemore, to dine with us the following evening! + +Yes, there is still more, for it so happens that Colonel Fitz-James is +known to be an epicure, to be fussy and finical about all things +pertaining to the table, and what is worse takes no pains to disguise +it, and in consequence is considered an undesirable dinner guest by +the most experienced housekeepers in the regiment. All this I had +often heard, and recalled every word during the long hours of that +night as I was making plans for the coming day. The combination in its +entirety could not have been more formidable. There was Faye's mother, +a splendid housekeeper--her very first day in our house. His colonel +and an abnormally sensitive palate--his very first meeting with each +of us. His classmate, a young man of much wealth--a perfect stranger +to me. A soldier cook, willing, and a very good waiter, but only a +plain everyday cook; certainly not a maker of dainty dishes for a +dinner party. And my own experiences in housekeeping had been limited +to log huts in outlandish places. + +Every little thing for that dinner had to be prepared in our own +house. There was no obliging caterer around the corner where a salad, +an ice, and other things could be hurriedly ordered; not even one +little market to go to for fish, flesh, or fowl; only the sutler's +store, where their greatest dainty is "cove" oysters! Fortunately +there were some young grouse in the house which I had saved for Mrs. +Rae and which were just right for the table, and those West could cook +perfectly. + +So with a head buzzing from quinine I went down in the morning, and +with stubborn determination that the dinner should be a success, I +proceeded to carry out the plans I had decided upon during the night. + +The house was put in splendid order and the dinner prepared, and +Colonel Knight was invited to join us. I attempted only the dishes +that could be served well--nothing fancy or difficult--and the +sergeant's wife remained to assist West in the kitchen. It all passed +off pleasantly and most satisfactorily, and Colonel Fitz-James could +not have been more agreeable, although he looked long and sharply at +the soldier when he first appeared in the dining room. But he said not +a word; perhaps he concluded it must be soldier or no dinner. I have +been told several nice things he said about that distracting dinner +before leaving the garrison. But it all matters little to me now, +since it was not found necessary to take me to a lunatic asylum! + +Mrs. Rae saw in a paper that Faye had been shot by a desperado, and +was naturally much alarmed, so she sent a telegram to learn what had +happened, and in reply Faye telegraphed for her to come out, and +fearing that he must be very ill she left Boston that very night. But +we understood that she would start the next day, and this +misinterpretation caused my undoing--that and the sand storm. + +That man Oliver has at last been arrested and is now in the jail at +Las Animas, chained with another man--a murderer--to a post in the +dark cellar. This is because he has so many times threatened the +jailer. He says that some day he will get out, and then his first act +will be to kill the keeper, and the next to kill Lieutenant Rae. He +also declares that Faye kicked him when he was in the guardhouse at +the post. Of course anyone with a knowledge of military discipline +would know this assertion to be false, for if Faye had done such a +thing as that, he might have been court-martialed. + +The sheriff was actually afraid to make the arrest the first time he +went over, because so many of Oliver's friends were in town, and so he +came back without him, although he saw him several times. The second +trip, however, Oliver was taken off guard and was handcuffed and out +of the town before he had a chance to rally his friends to his +assistance. He was brought to Las Animas during the night to avoid any +possibility of a lynching. The residents of the little town are full +of indignation that the man should have attempted to kill an officer +of this garrison. He is a horse thief and desperado, and made his +escape from their jail several months back, so altogether they +consider that the country can very well do without him. I think so, +too, and wish every hour in the day that the sheriff had been less +cautious. Oliver cannot be tried until next May, when the general +court meets, and I am greatly distressed over this fact, for the jail +is old and most insecure, and he may get out at any time. The fear and +dread of him is on my mind day and night. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +December, 1873. + +EVERYONE in the garrison seems to be more or less in a state of +collapse! The bal masque is over, the guests have departed, and all +that is left to us now are the recollections of a delightful party +that gave full return for our efforts to have it a success. + +We did not dream that so many invitations would be accepted at +far-away posts, that parties would come from Fort Leavenworth, Fort +Riley, Fort Dodge, and Fort Wallace, for a long ambulance ride was +necessary from each place. But we knew of their coming in time to make +preparations for all, so there was no confusion or embarrassment. +Every house on the officers' line was filled to overflowing and +scarcely a corner left vacant. + +The new hospital was simply perfect for an elaborate entertainment. +The large ward made a grand ballroom, the corridors were charming for +promenading, and, yes, flirting, the dining room and kitchen perfect +for the supper, and the office and other small rooms were a nice size +for cloak rooms. Of course each one of these rooms, big and small, had +to be furnished. In each dressing room was a toilet table fitted out +with every little article that might possibly be needed during the +evening, both before and after the removal of masks. All this +necessitated much planning, an immense amount of work, and the +stripping of our own houses. But there were a good many of us, and the +soldiers were cheerful assistants. I was on the supper committee, +which really dwindled down to a committee of one at the very last, for +I was left alone to put the finishing touches to the tables and to +attend to other things. The vain creatures seemed more interested in +their own toilets, and went home to beautify themselves. + +The commanding officer kept one eye, and the quartermaster about a +dozen eyes upon us while we were decorating, to see that no injury was +done to the new building. But that watchfulness was unnecessary, for +the many high windows made the fastening of flags an easy matter, as +we draped them from the casing of one window to the casing of the +next, which covered much of the cold, white walls and gave an air of +warmth and cheeriness to the rooms. Accoutrements were hung +everywhere, every bit of brass shining as only an enlisted man can +make it shine, and the long infantry rifles with fixed bayonets were +"stacked" whereever they would not interfere with the dancing. + +Much of the supper came from Kansas City--that is, the celery, fowls, +and material for little cakes, ices, and so on--and the orchestra +consisted of six musicians from the regimental band at Fort Riley. The +floor of the ballroom was waxed perfectly, but it is hoped by some of +us that much of the lightning will be taken from it before the +hospital cots and attendants are moved in that ward. + +Everybody was en masque and almost everyone wore fancy dress and some +of the costumes were beautiful. The most striking figure in the rooms, +perhaps, was Lieutenant Alden, who represented Death! He is very tall +and very slender, and he had on a skintight suit of dark-brown +drilling, painted from crown to toe with thick white paint to +represent the skeleton of a human being; even the mask that covered +the entire head was perfect as a skull. The illusion was a great +success, but it made one shiver to see the awful thing walking about, +the grinning skull towering over the heads of the tallest. And ever at +its side was a red devil, also tall, and so thin one wondered what +held the bones together. This red thing had a long tail. The devil was +Lieutenant Perkins, of course. + +Faye and Doctor Dent were dressed precisely alike, as sailors, the +doctor even wearing a pair of Faye's shoes. They had been very sly +about the twin arrangement, which was really splendid, for they are +just about the same size and have hair very much the same color. But +smart as they were, I recognized Faye at once. The idea of anyone +thinking I would not know him! + +We had queens and milkmaids and flower girls galore, and black starry +nights and silvery days, and all sorts of things, many of them very +elegant. My old yellow silk, the two black lace flounces you gave me, +and a real Spanish mantilla that Mrs. Rae happened to have with her, +made a handsome costume for me as a Spanish lady. I wore almost all +the jewelry in the house; every piece of my own small amount and much +of Mrs. Rae's, the nicest of all having been a pair of very large +old-fashioned "hoop" earrings, set all around with brilliants. My comb +was a home product, very showy, but better left to the imagination. + +The dancing commenced at nine o'clock, and at twelve supper was +served, when we unmasked, and after supper we danced again and kept on +dancing until five o'clock! Even then a few of us would have been +willing to begin all over, for when again could we have such a +ballroom with perfect floor and such excellent music to dance by? But +with the new day came a new light and all was changed, much like the +change of a ballet with a new calcium light, only ours was not +beautifying, but most trying to tired, painted faces; and seeing each +other we decided that we could not get home too fast. In a few days +the hospital will be turned over to the post-surgeon, and the +beautiful ward will be filled with iron cots and sick soldiers, and +instead of delicate perfumes, the odor of nauseous drugs will pervade +every place. + +I have been too busy to ride during the past week, but am going out +this afternoon with the chaplain's young daughter, who is a fearless +rider, although only fourteen. King is very handsome now and his gait +delightful, but he still requires most careful management. He ran away +with me the other day, starting with those three tremendous strides, +but we were out on a level and straight road, so nothing went wrong. +All there was for me to do was to keep my seat. Lieutenant Perkins and +Miss Campbell were a mile or more ahead of us, and after he had passed +them he came down to a trot, evidently flattering himself that he had +won a race, and that nothing further was expected of him. + +He jumps the cavalry hurdles beautifully--goes over like a deer, Hal +always following directly back of him. Whatever a horse does that dog +wants to do also. Last spring, when we came up from Camp Supply, he +actually tried to eat the corn that dropped from King's mouth as he +was getting his supper one night in camp. He has scarcely noticed +Powder-Face since the very day King was sent to me, but became devoted +to the new horse at once. I wonder if he could have seen that the new +horse was the faster of the two! + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +May, 1874. + +THERE is such good news to send you to-day I can hardly write it fast +enough. The Territorial Court has been in session, and yesterday that +horse thief, Billy Oliver, was tried and sentenced to ten years' +imprisonment in the penitentiary! The sheriff and a posse started for +Canon City this morning with him and another prisoner, and I hope that +he will not make his escape on the way over. The sheriff told Faye +confidentially the route he intended to take, which is not at all the +one he is supposed to be going over, and threw out strong hints to the +effect that if he wanted to put an end to the man's vicious career +there would be no interference from him (the sheriff) or his posse. He +even told Faye of a lonesome spot where it could be accomplished +easily and safely! + +This was a strange thing for a sheriff to do, even in this country of +desperadoes, and shows what a fiend he considers Oliver to be. He said +that the man was the leader of a gang of the lowest and boldest type +of villains, and that even now it would be safer to have him out of +the way. Sheriffs are afraid of these men, and do not like to be +obliged to arrest them. + +The day of the trial, and as Faye was about to go to the court room, a +corporal came to the house and told him that he had just come from Las +Animas, where he had heard from a reliable source that many of +Oliver's friends were in the town, and that it was their intention to +kill Faye as he came in the court room. He even described the man who +was to do the dreadful work, and he told Faye that if he went over +without an escort he would certainly be killed. + +This was simply maddening, and I begged Faye to ask for a guard, but +he would not, insisting that there was not the least danger, that even +a desperado would not dare shoot an army officer in Las Animas in a +public place, for he knew he would be hung the next moment. That was +all very well, but it seemed to me that it would be better to guard +against the murder itself rather than think of what would be done to +the murderer. I knew that the corporal would never have come to the +house if he had not heard much that was alarming. + +So Faye went over without a guard, but did condescend to wear his +revolvers. He says that the first thing he saw as he entered the court +room were six big, brawny cavalrymen, each one a picked man, selected +for bravery and determination. Of course each trooper was armed with +large government revolvers and a belt full of cartridges. He also saw +that they were sitting near, and where they could watch every move of +a man who answered precisely to the corporal's description, and as he +passed on up through the crowd he almost touched him. His hair was +long and hung down on his shoulders about a face that was villainous, +and he was "armed to the teeth." There were other tough-looking men +seated near this man, each one armed also. + +Colonel Bissell had heard of the threat to kill Faye, and ordered a +corporal, the very man who searched so bravely through the dark house +for Oliver at Granada, and five privates to the court, with +instructions to shoot at once the first and every man who made the +slightest move to harm Faye! Those men knew very well what the +soldiers were there for, and I imagine that after one look at their +weather-beaten faces, which told of many an Indian campaign, the +villains decided that it would be better to keep quiet and let Oliver +manage his own affairs. + +A sergeant and one or two privates were summoned by Oliver to give +testimony against Faye, but each one told the same story, and said +most emphatically that Faye had not done more than speak to the man in +the line of duty, and as any officer would have done. Directly after +guard mounting, and as the new guard marches up to the guardhouse, the +old guard is ordered out, also the prisoners, and the prisoners stand +in the middle of the line with soldiers at each end, and every man, +enlisted man and prisoner, is required to stand up straight and in +line. It was at One of these times that Oliver claimed that Faye +kicked him, when he was officer of the day. Faye and Major Tilford say +that the man was slouching, and Faye told him to stand up and take his +hands out of his pockets. A small thing to murder an officer for, but +I imagine that any sort of discipline to a man of his character was +most distasteful. + +Of course Faye left the court room as soon as his testimony had been +given. When the sentence was pronounced the judge requested all +visitors to remain seated until after the prisoner had been removed, +which showed that he was a little afraid of trouble, and knew the +bitter feeling against the horse thief in the town. Several girls and +young officers from the post were outside in an ambulance, and they +commenced to cheer when told of the sentence, but the judge hurried a +messenger out to them with a request that they make no demonstration +whatever. He is a fearless and just judge, and it is a wonder that +desperadoes have not killed him long ago. + +Perhaps now I can have a little rest from the terrible fear that has +been ever with me day and night during the whole winter, that Oliver +would escape from the old jail and carry out his threat of double +murder. He had made his escape once, and I feared that he might get +out again. But that post and chain must have been very securely fixed +down in that cellar. + +FORT LYON, COLORADO TERRITORY, +June, 1874. + +BY this time you have my letter telling you that the regiment has been +ordered to the Department of the Gulf. Since then we have heard that +it is to go directly to Holly Springs, Mississippi, for the summer, +where a large camp is to be established. Just imagine what the +suffering will be, to go from this dry climate to the humidity of the +South, and from cool, thick-walled adobe buildings to hot, glary tents +in the midst of summer heat! We will reach Holly Springs about the +Fourth of July. Faye's allowance for baggage hardly carries more than +trunks and a few chests of house linen and silver, so we are taking +very few things with us. It is better to give them away than to pay +for their transportation such a long distance. + +Both horses have been sold and beautiful King has gone. The young man +who bought him was a stranger here, and knew absolutely nothing about +the horse except what some one in Las Animas had told him. He rode him +around the yard only once, and then jumping down, pulled from his +pocket a fat roll of bills, counted off the amount for horse, saddle, +and bridle, and then, without saying one word more than a curt "good +morning," he mounted the horse again and rode out of the yard and +away. I saw the whole transaction from a window--saw it as well as +hot, blinding tears would permit. Faye thinks the man might have been +a fugitive and wanted a fast horse to get him out of the country. We +learned not long ago, you know, that King had been an Indian race pony +owned by a half-breed named Bent. He sent word from Camp Supply that I +was welcome to the horse if I could ride him! The chaplain has bought +Powder-Face, and I am to keep him as long as we are here. Hal will go +with us, for I cannot give up that dog and horses, too. + +Speaking of Hal reminds me of the awful thing that occurred here a few +days ago. I have written often of the pack of beautiful greyhounds +owned by the cavalry officers, and of the splendid record of +Magic--Hal's father--as a hunter, and how the dog was loved by +Lieutenant Baldwin next to his horse. + +But unless the dogs were taken on frequent hunts, they would steal off +on their own account and often be away a whole day, perhaps until +after dark. The other day they went off this way, and in the +afternoon, as Lieutenant Alden was riding along by the river, he came +to a scene that made him positively ill. On the ground close to the +water was the carcass of a calf, which had evidently been filled with +poison for wolves, and near it on the bank lay Magic, Deacon, Dixie, +and other hounds, all dead or dying! Blue has bad teeth and was still +gnawing at the meat, and therefore had not been to the water, which +causes almost instant death in cases of poisoning by wolf meat. + +As soon as Lieutenant Alden saw that the other dogs were past doing +for, he hurried on to the post with Blue, and with great difficulty +saved her life. So Hal and his mother are sole survivors of the +greyhounds that have been known at many of the frontier posts as +fearless and tireless hunters, and plucky fighters when forced to +fight. Greyhounds will rarely seek a fight, a trait that sometimes +fools other dogs and brings them to their Waterloo. When Lieutenant +Alden told me of the death of the dogs, tears came in his eyes as he +said, "I have shared my bed with old Magic many a time!" And how those +dogs will be missed at the bachelor quarters! When we came here last +summer, I was afraid that the old hounds would pounce upon Hal, but +instead of that they were most friendly and seemed to know he was one +of them--a wanderer returned. + +ST. CHARLES HOTEL, NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, +September, 1877. + +LIFE in the Army is certainly full of surprises! At Pass Christian +yesterday morning, Faye and I were sitting on the veranda reading the +papers in an indifferent sort of way, when suddenly Faye jumped up and +said, "The Third has been ordered to Montana Territory!" At first I +could not believe him--it seemed so improbable that troops would be +sent to such a cold climate at this season of the year, and besides, +most of the regiment is at Pittsburg just now because of the great +coal strike. But there in the Picayune was the little paragraph of +half a dozen lines that was to affect our lives for years to come, and +which had the immediate power to change our condition of indolent +content, into one of the greatest activity and excitement! + +Faye went at once to the telegraph office and by wire gave up the +remainder of his leave, and also asked the regimental adjutant if +transportation was being provided for officers' families. The distance +is so great, and the Indians have been so hostile in Montana during +the past two years, that we thought families possibly would not be +permitted to go. + +After luncheon we packed the trunks, carefully separating things so +there would be no necessity for repacking if I could not go, and I can +assure you that many an article was folded down damp with hot +tears--the very uncertainty was so trying. In the evening we went +around to say "good-by" to a few of the friends who have been so +cordial and hospitable during the summer. Early this morning we came +from Pass Christian, and soon after we got here telegrams came for +Faye, one ordering him to proceed to Pittsburg and report for duty, +and another saying that officers' families may accompany the regiment. +This was glorious news to me. The fear and dread of having to be left +behind had made me really ill--and what would have become of me if it +had actually come to pass I cannot imagine. I can go--that is all +sufficient for the present, and we expect to leave for Pittsburg this +evening at nine o'clock. + +The late start gives us a long day here with nothing to do. After a +while, when it is not quite so hot outside, we are going out to take a +farewell look at some of our old haunts. Our friends are all out of +the city, and Jackson Barracks is too far away for such a warm +day--besides, there is no one there now that we know. + +It seems quite natural to be in this dear old hotel, where all during +the past winter our "Army and Navy Club" cotillons were danced every +two weeks. And they were such beautiful affairs, with two splendid +military orchestras to furnish the music, one for the dancing and one +to give choice selections in between the figures. We will carry with +us to the snow and ice of the Rocky Mountains many, many delightful +memories of New Orleans, where the French element gives a charm to +everything. The Mardi-Gras parades, in which the regiment has each +year taken such a prominent part--the courtly Rex balls--the balls of +Comus--the delightful Creole balls in Grunewald Hall--the stately and +exclusive balls of the Washington Artillery in their own splendid +hall--the charming dancing receptions on the ironclad monitor +Canonicus, also the war ship Plymouth, where we were almost afraid to +step, things were so immaculate and shiny--and then our own pretty +army fetes at Jackson Barracks--regimental headquarters--each and all +will be remembered, ever with the keenest pleasure. + +But the event in the South that has made the deepest impression of all +occurred at Vicksburg, where for three weeks we lived in the same +house, en famille and intimately, with Jefferson Davis! I consider +that to have been a really wonderful experience. You probably can +recall a little of what I wrote you at the time--how we were boarding +with his niece in her splendid home when he came to visit her. + +I remember so well the day he arrived. He knew, of course, that an +army officer was in the house, and Mrs. Porterfield had told us of his +coming, so the meeting was not unexpected. Still, when we went down to +dinner that night I was almost shivering from nervousness, although +the air was excessively warm. I was so afraid of something unpleasant +coming up, for although Mrs. Porterfield and her daughter were women +of culture and refinement, they were also rebels to the very quick, +and never failed at any time to remind one that their uncle was +"President" Davis! And then, as we went in the large dining room, Faye +in his very bluest, shiniest uniform, looked as if he might be Uncle +Sam himself. + +But there was nothing to fear--nothing whatever. A tall, thin old man +came forward with Mrs. Porterfield to meet us--a courtly gentleman of +the old Southern school--who, apparently, had never heard of the Civil +War, and who, if he noticed the blue uniform at all, did not take the +slightest interest in what it represented. His composure was really +disappointing! After greeting me with grave dignity, he turned to Faye +and grasped his hand firmly and cordially, the whole expression of his +face softening just a little. I have always thought that he was deeply +moved by once again seeing the Federal Blue under such friendly +circumstances, and that old memories came surging back, bringing with +them the almost forgotten love and respect for the Academy--a love +that every graduate takes to his grave, whether his life be one of +honor or of disgrace. + +One could very easily have become sentimental, and fancied that he was +Old West Point, misled and broken in spirit, admitting in dignified +silence his defeat and disgrace to Young West Point, who, with Uncle +Sam's shoulder straps and brass buttons, could be generously oblivious +to the misguidance and treason of the other. We wondered many times if +Jefferson Davis regretted his life. He certainly could not have been +satisfied with it. + +There was more in that meeting than a stranger would have known of. In +the splendid dining room where we sat, which was forty feet in length +and floored with tiles of Italian marble, as was the entire large +basement, it was impossible not to notice the unpainted casing of one +side of a window, and also the two immense patches of common gray +plaster on the beautifully frescoed walls, which covered holes made by +a piece of shell that had crashed through the house during the siege +of Vicksburg. The shell itself had exploded outside near the servants' +quarters. + +Then, again, every warm evening after dinner, during the time he was +at the house, Jefferson Davis and Faye would sit out on the grand, +marble porch and smoke and tell of little incidents that had occurred +at West Point when each had been a cadet there. At some of these times +they would almost touch what was left of a massive pillar at one end, +that had also been shattered and cracked by pieces of shell from U.S. +gunboats, one piece being still imbedded in the white marble. + +For Jefferson Davis knew that Faye's father was an officer in the +Navy, and that he had bravely and boldly done his very best toward the +undoing of the Confederacy; and by his never-failing, polished +courtesy to that father's son--even when sitting by pieces of shell +and patched-up walls--the President of the Confederacy set an example +of dignified self-restraint, that many a Southern man and +woman--particularly woman--would do well to follow. + +For in these days of reconstruction officers and their families are +not always popular. But at Pass Christian this summer we have received +the most hospitable, thoughtful attention, and never once by word or +deed were we reminded that we were "Yank-Tanks," as was the case at +Holly Springs the first year we were there. However, we did some fine +reconstruction business for Uncle Sam right there with those pert +Mississippi girls--two of whom were in a short time so thoroughly +reconstructed that they joined his forces "for better or for worse!" + +The social life during the three years we have been in the South has +most of the time been charming, but the service for officers has often +been most distasteful. Many times they have been called upon to escort +and protect carpetbag politicians of a very low type of manhood--men +who could never command one honest vote at their own homes in the +North. Faye's company has been moved twenty-one times since we came +from Colorado three years ago, and almost every time it was at the +request of those unprincipled carpetbaggers. These moves did not +always disturb us, however, as during most of the time Faye has been +adjutant general of the District of Baton Rouge, and this kept us at +Baton Rouge, but during the past winter we have been in New Orleans. + +Several old Creole families whose acquaintance we made in the city +last winter, have charming old-style Southern homes at Pass Christian, +where we have ever been cordially welcomed. It was a common occurrence +for me to chaperon their daughters to informal dances at the different +cottages along the beach, and on moonlight sailing parties on Mr. +Payne's beautiful yacht, and then, during the entire summer, from the +time we first got there, I have been captain of one side of a croquet +team, Mr. Payne having been captain of the other. The croquet part +was, of course, the result of Major Borden's patient and exacting +teaching at Baton Rouge. + +Mentioning Baton Rouge reminds me of my dear dog that was there almost +a year with the hospital steward. He is now with the company at Mount +Ver-non Barracks, Alabama, and Faye has telegraphed the sergeant to +see that he is taken to Pittsburg with the company. + +We are going out now, first of all to Michaud's for some of his +delicious biscuit glace! Our city friends are all away still, so there +will be nothing for us to do but wander around, pour passer le temps +until we go to the station. + +MONONGAHELA HOUSE, PITTSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA, +September, 1877. + +ONCE again we have our trunks packed for the long trip to Montana, and +this time I think we will go, as the special train that is to take us +is now at the station, and baggage of the regiment is being hurriedly +loaded. Word came this morning that the regiment would start to-night, +so it seems that at last General Sherman has gained his point. For +three long weeks we have been kept here in suspense--packing and then +unpacking--one day we were to go, the next we were not to go, while +the commanding general and the division commander were playing "tug of +war" with us. + +The trip will be long and very expensive, and we go from a hot climate +to a cold one at a season when the immediate purchase of warm clothing +is imperative, and with all this unexpected expense we have been +forced to pay big hotel bills for weeks, just because of a +disagreement between two generals that should have been settled in one +day. Money is very precious to the poor Army at present, too, for not +one dollar has been paid to officers or enlisted men for over three +months! How officers with large families can possibly manage this move +I do not see--sell their pay accounts I expect, and then be court +martialed for having done so. + +Congress failed to pass the army appropriation bill before it +adjourned, consequently no money can be paid to the Army until the +next session! Yet the Army is expected to go along just the same, +promptly pay Uncle Sam himself all commissary and quartermaster bills +at the end of each month, and without one little grumble do his +bidding, no matter what the extra expense may be. I wonder what the +wise men of Congress, who were too weary to take up the bill before +going to their comfortable homes--I wonder what they would do if the +Army as a body would say, "We are tired. Uncle, dear, and are going +home for the summer to rest. You will have to get along without us and +manage the Indians and strikers the best way you can." This would be +about as sensible as forcing the Army to be paupers for months, and +then ordering regiments from East to West and South to North. Of +course many families will be compelled to remain back, that might +otherwise have gone. + +We are taking out a young colored man we brought up with us from Holly +Springs. He has been at the arsenal since we have been here, and Hal +has been with him. It is over one year since the dog saw me, and I am +almost afraid he will not know me tonight at the station. Before we +left Pass Christian Faye telegraphed the sergeant to bring Hal with +the company and purchase necessary food for him on the way up. So, +when the company got here, bills were presented by several of the men, +who claimed to have bought meat for the dog, the sum total of which +was nine dollars for the two days! We were so pleased to know that Hal +had been so well cared for. But the soldiers were welcome to the money +and more with it, for we were so glad to have the dog with us again, +safe and well. + +We have quite a Rae family now--Faye and I--a darky, a greyhound, and +one small gray squirrel! It will be a hard trip for Billie, but I have +made for him a little ribbon collar and sewed securely to it a long +tape which makes a fine "picket rope" that can be tied to various +things in various places, and in this way he can be picketed and yet +receive exercise and air. + +We are to go almost straight north from the railroad for a distance of +over four hundred miles, and of course this will take several weeks +under the most favorable conditions. But you must not mind our going +so far away--it will be no farther than the Indian Territory, and the +climate of Montana must be very much better than it was at Camp +Supply, and the houses must certainly be more comfortable, as the +winters are so long and severe. I shall be so glad to have a home of +my own again, and have a horse to ride also. + +Faye has just come from the station and says that almost everything +has been loaded, and that we are really to start to-night at eight +o'clock. This is cheering news, for I think that everyone is anxious +to get to Montana, except the poor officers who cannot afford to take +their families with them. + +CORINNE, UTAH TERRITORY, +September, 1877. + +WE were almost one week coming out, but finally got here yesterday +morning. Our train was a special, and having no schedule, we were +often sidetracked for hours at a time, to make way for the regular +trains. As soon as possible after we arrived, the tents were unpacked +and put up, and it was amazing to see how soon there was order out of +chaos. This morning the camp looks like a little white city--streets +and all. There is great activity everywhere, as preparations have +already commenced for the march north. Our camp "mess" has been +started, and we will be very comfortable, I think, with a good soldier +cook and Cagey to take care of the tents. I am making covers for the +bed, trunk, and folding table, of dark-blue cretonne with white +figures, which carries out the color scheme of the folding chairs and +will give a little air of cheeriness to the tent, and of the same +material I am making pockets that can be pinned on the side walls of +the tent, in which various things can be tucked at night. These covers +and big pockets will be folded and put in the roll of bedding every +morning. + +There are not enough ambulances to go around, so I had my choice +between being crowded in with other people, or going in a big army +wagon by myself, and having had one experience in crowding, I chose +the wagon without hesitation. Faye is having the rear half padded with +straw and canvas on the sides and bottom, and the high top will be of +canvas drawn over "bows," in true emigrant fashion. Our tent will be +folded to form a seat and placed in the back, upon which I can sit and +look out through the round opening and gossip with the mules that will +be attached to the wagon back of me. In the front half will be packed +all of our camp furniture and things, the knockdown bed, mess-chest, +two little stoves (one for cooking), the bedding which will be tightly +rolled in canvas and strapped, and so on. Cagey will sit by the +driver. There is not one spring in the wagon, but even without, I will +be more comfortable than with Mrs. Hayden and three small children. +They can have the ambulance to themselves perhaps, and will have all +the room. I thought of Billie, too. He can be picketed all the time in +the wagon, but imagine the little fellow's misery in an ambulance with +three restless children for six or eight hours each day! + +Hal is with us--in fact, I can hardly get away from the poor dog, he +is so afraid of being separated from me again. When we got to the +station at Pittsburg he was there with Cagey, and it took only one +quick glance to see that he was a heart-broken, spirit-broken dog. Not +one spark was left of the fire that made the old Hal try to pull me +through an immense plate-glass mirror, in a hotel at Jackson, +Mississippi, to fight his own reflection (the time the strange man +offered one hundred and fifty dollars for him), and certainly he was +not the hound that whipped the big bulldog at Monroe, Louisiana, two +years ago. He did not see me as I came up back of him, and as he had +not even heard my voice for over one year, I was almost childishly +afraid to speak to him. But I finally said, "Hal, you have not +forgotten your old friend?" He turned instantly, but as I put my hand +upon his head there was no joyous bound or lifting of the ears and +tail--just a look of recognition, then a raising up full length of the +slender body on his back legs, and putting a forefoot on each of my +shoulders as far over as he could reach, he gripped me tight, fairly +digging his toe nails into me, and with his head pressed close to my +neck he held on and on, giving little low whines that were more like +human sobs than the cry of a dog. Of course I had my arms around him, +and of course I cried, too. It was so pitifully distressing, for it +told how keenly the poor dumb beast had suffered during the year he +had been away from us. People stared, and soon there was a crowd about +us with an abundance of curiosity. Cagey explained the situation, and +from then on to train time, Hal was patted and petted and given +dainties from lunch baskets. + +He was in the car next to ours, coming out, and we saw him often. Many +times there were long runs across the plains, when the only thing to +be seen, far or near, would be the huge tanks containing water for the +engines. At one of these places, while we were getting water. Cagey +happened to be asleep, and a recruit, thinking that Hal was +ill-treated by being kept tied all the time, unfastened the chain from +his collar and led him from the car. + +The first thing the dog saw was another dog, and alas! a greyhound +belonging to Ryan, an old soldier. The next thing he saw was the dear, +old, beautiful plains, for which he had pined so long and wearily. The +two dogs had never seen each other before, but hounds are clannish and +never fail to recognize their own kind, so with one or two jumps by +way of introduction, the two were off and out of sight before anyone +at the cars noticed what they were doing. I was sitting by the window +in our car and saw the dogs go over the rolling hill, and saw also +that a dozen or more soldiers were running after them. I told Faye +what had happened, and he started out and over the hill on a hard run. +Time passed, and we in the cars watched, but neither men nor dogs came +back. Finally a long whistle was blown from the engine, and in a short +time the train began to move very slowly. The officers and men came +running back, but the dogs were not with them! My heart was almost +broken; to leave my beautiful dog on the plains to starve to death was +maddening. I wanted to be alone, so to the dressing room I went, and +with face buried in a portiere was sobbing my very breath away when +Mrs. Pierce, wife of Major Pierce, came in and said so sweetly and +sympathetically: "Don't cry, dear; Hal is following the car and the +conductor is going to stop the train." + +Giving her a hasty embrace, I ran back to the end of the last car, and +sure enough, there was Hal, the old Hal, bounding along with tail high +up and eyes sparkling, showing that the blood of his ancestors was +still in his veins. The conductor did not stop the train, simply +because the soldiers did not give him an opportunity. They turned the +brakes and then held them, and if a train man had interfered there +would have been a fight right then and there. + +As soon as the train was stopped Faye and Ryan were the first to go +for the dogs, but by that time the hounds thought the whole affair +great fun and objected to being caught--at least Ryan's dog objected. +The porter in our car caught Hal, but Ryan told him to let the dog go, +that he would bring the two back together. This was shrewd in Ryan, +for he reasoned that Major Carleton might wait for an officer's dog, +but never for one that belonged to only an enlisted man; but really it +was the other way, the enlisted men held the brakes. The dogs ran back +almost a mile to the water tank, and the conductor backed the train +down after them, and not until both dogs were caught and on board +could steam budge it ahead. + +The major was in temporary command of the regiment at that time. He is +a very pompous man and always in fear that proper respect will not be +shown his rank, and when we were being backed down he went through our +car and said in a loud voice: "I am very sorry Mrs. Rae, that you +should lose your fine greyhound, but this train cannot be detained any +longer--it must move on!" I said nothing, for I saw the two big men in +blue at the brake in front, and knew Major Carleton would never order +them away, much as he might bluster and try to impress us with his +importance, for he is really a tender-hearted man. + +Poor Faye was utterly exhausted from running so long, and for some +time Ryan was in a critical condition. It seems that he buried his +wife quite recently, and has left his only child in New Orleans in a +convent, and the greyhound, a pet of both wife and little girl, is all +he has left to comfort him. Everyone is so glad that he got the dog. +Hal was not unchained again, I assure you, until we got here, but poor +Cagey almost killed himself at every stopping place running up and +down with the dog to give him a little exercise. + +It is really delightful to be in a tent once more, and I am +anticipating much pleasure in camping through a strange country. A +large wagon train of commissary stores will be with us, so we can +easily add to our supplies now and then. It is amazing to see the +really jolly mood everyone seems to be in. The officers are singing +and whistling, and we can often hear from the distance the boisterous +laughter of the men. And the wives! there is an expression of happy +content on the face of each one. We know, if the world does not, that +the part we are to take on this march is most important. We will see +that the tents are made comfortable and cheerful at every camp; that +the little dinner after the weary march, the early breakfast, and the +cold luncheon are each and all as dainty as camp cooking will permit. +Yes, we are sometimes called "camp followers," but we do not mind--it +probably originated with some envious old bachelor officer. We know +all about the comfort and cheer that goes with us, and then--we have +not been left behind! + +RYAN'S JUNCTION, IDAHO TERRITORY, +October, 1877. + +WE are snow-bound, and everyone seems to think we that we will be +compelled to remain here several days. It was bright and sunny when +the camp was made yesterday, but before dark a terrible blizzard came +up, and by midnight the snow was deep and the cold intense. As long as +we remain inside the tents we are quite comfortable with the little +conical sheet-iron stoves that can make a tent very warm. And the snow +that had banked around the canvas keeps out the freezing-wind. We +have everything for our comfort, but such weather does not make life +in camp at all attractive. + +Faye just came in from Major Pierce's tent, where he says he saw a +funny sight. They have a large hospital tent, on each side of which is +a row of iron cots, and on the cots were five chubby little +children--one a mere baby--kicking up their little pink feet in jolly +defiance of their patient old mammy, who was trying to keep them +covered up. The tent was warm and cozy, but outside, where the snow +was so deep and the cold so penetrating, one could hardly have +believed that these small people could have been made so warm and +happy. But Mrs. Pierce is a wonderful mother! Major Pierce was opposed +to bringing his family on this long march, to be exposed to all kinds +of weather, but Mrs. Pierce had no idea of being left behind with two +days of car and eight days of the worst kind of stage travel between +her husband and herself; so, like a sensible woman, she took matters +in her own hands, and when we reached Chicago, where she had been +visiting, there at the station was the smiling Mrs. Pierce with +babies, governess, nurses, and trunks, all splendidly prepared to come +with us--and come they all did. After the major had scolded a little +and eased his conscience, he smiled as much as the other members of +the family. + +The children with us seem to be standing the exposure wonderfully +well. One or two were pale at first, but have become rosy and strong, +although there is much that must be very trying to them and the +mothers also. The tents are "struck" at six sharp in the morning, and +that means that we have to be up at four and breakfast at five. That +the bedding must be rolled, every little thing tucked away in trunks +or bags, the mess chest packed, and the cooking stove and cooking +utensils not only made ready to go safely in the wagon, but they must +be carried out of the tents before six o'clock. At that time the +soldiers come, and, when the bugle sounds, down go the tents, and if +anything happens to be left inside, it has to be fished out from +underneath the canvas or left there until the tent is folded. The days +are so short now that all this has to be done in the darkness, by +candle or lantern light, and how mothers can get their small people up +and ready for the day by six o'clock, I cannot understand, for it is +just all I can manage to get myself and the tent ready by that time. + +We are on the banks of a small stream, and the tents are evidently +pitched directly upon the roosting ground of wild geese, for during +the snowstorm thousands of them came here long after dark, making the +most dreadful uproar one ever heard, with the whirring of their big +wings and constant "honk! honk!" of hundreds of voices. They circled +around so low and the calls were so loud that it seemed sometimes as +if they were inside the tents. They must have come home for shelter +and become confused and blinded by the lights in the tents, and the +loss of their ground. We must be going through a splendid country for +game. + +I was very ill for several days on the way up, the result of +malaria--perhaps too many scuppernong grapes at Pass Christian, and +jolting of the heavy army wagon that makes a small stone seem the size +of a boulder. One morning I was unable to walk or even stand up, and +Faye and Major Bryant carried me to the wagon on a buffalo robe. All +of that day's march Faye walked by the side of my wagon, and that +allowed him no rest whatever, for in order to make it as easy for me +as possible, my wagon had been placed at the extreme end of the long +line. The troops march fifty minutes and halt ten, and as we went much +slower than the men marched, we would about catch up with the column +at each rest, just when the bugle would be blown to fall in line +again, and then on the troops and wagons would go, Faye was kept on a +continuous tramp. I still think that he should have asked permission +to ride on the wagon, part of the day at least, but he would not do +so. + +One evening when the camp was near a ranch, I heard Doctor Gordon tell +Faye outside the tent that I must be left at the place in the morning, +that I was too ill to go farther! I said not a word about having heard +this, but I promised myself that I would go on. The dread of being +left with perfect strangers, of whom I knew nothing, and where I could +not possibly have medical attendance, did not improve my condition, +but fear gave me strength, and in the morning when camp broke I +assured Doctor Gordon that I was better, very much better, and stuck +to it with so much persistence that at last he consented to my going +on. But during many hours of the march that morning I was obliged to +ride on my hands and knees! The road was unusually rough and stony, +and the jolting I could not endure, sitting on the canvas or lying on +the padded bottom of the wagon. + +It so happened that Faye was officer of the day that day, and Colonel +Fitz-James, knowing that he was under a heavy strain with a sick wife +in addition to the long marches, sent him one of his horses to ride--a +very fine animal and one of a matched team. At the first halt Faye +missed Hal, and riding back to the company saw he was not with the +men, so he went on to my wagon, but found that I was shut up tight, +Cagey asleep, and the dog not with us. He did not speak to either of +us, but kept on to the last wagon, where a laundress told him that she +saw the dog going back down the road we had just come over. + +The wagon master, a sergeant, had joined Faye, riding a mule, and the +two rode on after the dog, expecting every minute to overtake him. But +the recollection of the unhappy year at Baton Rouge with the hospital +steward was still fresh in Hal's memory, and the fear of another +separation from his friends drove him on and on, faster and faster, +and kept him far ahead of the horses. When at last Faye found him, he +was sitting by the smoking ashes of our camp stove, his long nose +pointed straight up, giving the most blood-curdling howls of misery +and woe possible for a greyhound to give, and this is saying much. The +poor dog was wild with delight when he saw Faye, and of course there +was no trouble in bringing him back; he was only too glad to have his +old friend to follow. He must have missed Faye from the company in the +morning, and then failing to find me in the shut-up wagon, had gone +back to camp for us. This is all easily understood, but how did that +hound find the exact spot where our tent had been, even the very ashes +of our stove, on that large camp ground when he has no sense of smell? + +I wondered all the day why I did not see Faye and when the stop for +luncheon passed and he had not come I began to worry, as much as I +could think of anything beyond my own suffering. Late in the afternoon +we reached the camp for the night, and still Faye had not come and no +one could tell me anything about him. And I was very, very ill! Doctor +Gordon was most kind and attentive, but neither he nor other friends +could relieve the pain in my heart, for I felt so positive that +something was wrong. + +Just as our tent had been pitched Faye rode up, looking weary and +worried, said a word or two to me, and then rode away again. He soon +returned, however, and explained his long absence by telling me +briefly that he had gone back for the dog. But he was quiet and +distrait, and directly after dinner he went out again. When he came +back he told me all about everything that had occurred. + +Under any circumstances, it would have been a dreadful thing for him +to have been absent from the command without permission, but when +officer of the day it was unpardonable, and to take the colonel's +horse with him made matters all the worse. And then the wagon master +was liable to have been called upon at any time, if anything had +happened, or the command had come to a dangerous ford. Faye told me +how they had gone back for the dog, and so on, and said that when he +first got in camp he rode immediately to the colonel's tent, turned +the horse over to an orderly, and reported his return to the colonel, +adding that if the horse was injured he would replace him. Then he +came to his own tent, fully expecting an order to follow soon, placing +him under arrest. + +But after dinner, as no order had come, he went again to see the +colonel and told him just how the unfortunate affair had come about, +how he had felt that if the dog was not found it might cost me my +life, as I was so devoted to the dog and so very ill at that time. The +colonel listened to the whole story, and then told Faye that he +understood it all, that undoubtedly he would have done the same thing! +I think it was grand in Colonel Fitz-James to have been so gentle and +kind--not one word of reproach did he say to Faye. Perhaps memories of +his own wife came to him. The colonel may have a sensitive palate that +makes him unpopular with many, but there are two people in his +regiment who know that he has a heart so tender and big that the +palate will never be considered again by them. Of course the horse was +not injured in the least. + +We are on the stage road to Helena, and at this place there is a fork +that leads to the northwest which the lieutenant colonel and four +companies will take to go to Fort Missoula, Montana. The colonel, +headquarters, and other companies are to be stationed at Helena +during the winter. We expect to meet the stage going south about noon +to-morrow, and you should have this in eight days. Billie squirrel has +a fine time in the wagon and is very fat. He runs off with bits of my +luncheon every day and hides them in different places in the canvas, +to his own satisfaction at least. One of the mules back of us has +become most friendly, and will take from my hand all sorts of things +to eat. + +Poor Hal had a fit the other day, something like vertigo, after having +chased a rabbit. Doctor Gordon says that he has fatty degeneration of +the heart, caused by having so little exercise in the South, but that +he will probably get over it if allowed to run every day. But I do not +like the very idea of the dog having anything the matter with his +heart. It was so pathetic to have him stagger to the tent and drop at +my feet, dumbly confident that I could give him relief. + +CAMP NEAR HELENA, MONTANA TERRITORY, +November, 1877. + +THE company has been ordered to Camp Baker, a small post nearly sixty +miles farther on. We were turned off from the Helena road and the rest +of the command at the base of the mountains, and are now about ten +miles from Helena on our way to the new station, which, we are told, +is a wretched little two-company post on the other side of the Big +Belt range of mountains. I am awfully disappointed in not seeing +something of Helena, and very, very sorry that we have to go so far +from our friends and to such an isolated place, but it is the +company's turn for detached service, so here we are. + +The scenery was grand in many places along the latter part of the +march, and it is grand here, also. We are in a beautiful broad valley +with snow-capped mountains on each side. From all we hear we conclude +there must be exceptionally good hunting and fishing about Camp Baker, +and there is some consolation in that. The fishing was very good at +several of our camps after we reached the mountains, and I can assure +you that the speckled trout of the East and these mountain trout are +not comparable, the latter are so far, far superior. The flesh is +white and very firm, and sometimes they are so cold when brought out +of the water one finds it uncomfortable to hold them. They are good +fighters, too, and even small ones give splendid sport. + +One night the camp was by a beautiful little stream with high banks, +and here and there bunches of bushes and rocks--an ideal home for +trout, so I started out, hoping to catch something--with a common +willow pole and ordinary hook, and grasshoppers for bait. Faye tells +everybody that I had only a bent pin for a hook, but of course no one +believes him. Major Stokes joined me and we soon found a deep pool +just at the edge of camp. His fishing tackle was very much like mine, +so when we saw Captain Martin coming toward us with elegant jointed +rod, shining new reel, and a camp stool, we felt rather crestfallen. +Captain Martin passed on and seated himself comfortably on the bank +just below us, but Major Stokes and I went down the bank to the edge +of the pool where we were compelled to stand, of course. + +The water was beautifully clear and as soon as everybody and +everything became quiet, we saw down on the bottom one or two trout, +then more appeared, and still more, until there must have been a dozen +or so beautiful fish in between the stones, each one about ten inches +long. But go near the hooks they would not, neither would they rise to +Captain Martin's most tempting flies--for he, too, saw many trout, +from where he sat. We stood there a long time, until our patience was +quite exhausted, trying to catch some of those fish, sometimes letting +the current take the grasshoppers almost to their very noses, when +finally Major Stokes whispered, "There, Mrs. Rae there, try to get +that big fellow!" Now as we had all been most unsuccessful with the +little "fellows," I had no hope whatever of getting the big one, +still I tried, for he certainly was a beauty and looked very large as +he came slowly along, carefully avoiding the stones. Before I had +moved my bait six inches, there was a flash of white down there, and +then with a little jerk I hooked that fish--hooked him safely. + +That was very, very nice, but the fish set up a terrible fight that +would have given great sport with a reel, but I did not have a reel, +and the steep bank directly back of me only made matters worse. I saw +that time must not be wasted, that I must not give him a chance to +slacken the line and perhaps shake the hook off, so I faced about, and +putting the pole over my shoulder, proceeded to climb the bank of four +or five feet, dragging the flopping fish after me! Captain Martin +laughed heartily, but instead of laughing at the funny sight, Major +Stokes jumped to my assistance, and between us we landed the fish up +on the bank. It was a lovely trout--by far the largest we had seen, +and Major Stokes insisted that we should take him to the commissary +scales, where he weighed over three and one half pounds! + +The jumping about of my big trout ruined the fishing, of course, in +that part of the stream for some time, so, with a look of disgust for +things generally, Captain Martin folded his rod and camp stool and +returned to his tent. I had the trout served for our dinner, and, +having been so recently caught, it was delicious. These mountain trout +are very delicate, and if one wishes to enjoy their very finest +flavor, they should be cooked and served as soon as they are out of +the water. If kept even a few hours this delicacy is lost--a fact we +have discovered for ourselves on the march up. + +The camp to-night is near the house of a German family, and I am +writing in their little prim sitting room, and Billie squirrel is with +me and very busy examining' things generally. I came over to wait +while the tents were being pitched, and was received with such cordial +hospitality, and have found the little room so warm and comfortable +that I have stayed on longer than I had intended. Soon after I came my +kind hostess brought in a cup of most delicious coffee and a little +pitcher of cream--real cream--something I had not tasted for six +weeks, and she also brought a plate piled high with generous pieces of +German cinnamon cake, at the same time telling me that I must eat +every bit of it--that I looked "real peaked," and not strong enough to +go tramping around with all those men! When I told her that it was +through my own choice that I was "tramping," that I enjoyed it she +looked at me with genuine pity, and as though she had just discovered +that I did not have good common sense. + +We start on early in the morning, and it will take two three days to +cross the mountains. The little camp of one company looks lonesome +after the large regimental camp we have been with so long. The air is +really wonderful, so clear and crisp and exhilarating. It makes me +long for a good horse, and horses we intend to have as soon as +possible. We are anticipating so much pleasure in having a home once +more, even if it is to be of logs and buried in snow, perhaps, during +the winter. Hal is outside, and his beseeching whines have swelled to +awful howls that remind me of neglected duties in the tent. + +CAMP BAKER, MONTANA TERRITORY, +November, 1877. + +IT was rather late in the afternoon yesterday when we got to this +post, because of a delay on the mountains. But this did not cause +inconvenience to anyone--there was a vacant set of quarters that +Lieutenant Hayden took possession of at once for his family, and where +with camp outfit they can be comfortable until the wagons are +unloaded. Faye and I are staying with the commanding officer and his +wife. Colonel Gardner is lieutenant colonel of the --th Infantry, and +has a most enviable reputation as a post commander. As an officer, we +have not seen him yet, but we do know that he can be a most charming +host. He has already informed Faye that he intends to appoint him +adjutant and quartermaster of the post. + +We are in a little valley almost surrounded by magnificent, heavily +timbered mountains, and Colonel Gardner says that at any time one can +find deer, mountain sheep, and bear in these forests, adding that +there are also mountain lions and wild cats! The scenery on the road +from Helena to Camp Baker was grand, but the roads were dreadful, most +of the time along the sides of steep mountains that seemed to be one +enormous pile of big boulders in some places and solid rock in others. +These roads have been cut into the rock and are scarcely wider than +the wagon track, and often we could look almost straight down +seventy-five feet, or even more, on one side, and straight up for +hundreds of feet on the other side. + +And in the canons many of the grades were so steep that the wheels of +the wagons had to be chained in addition to the big brakes to prevent +them from running sideways, and so off the grade. I rode down one of +these places, but it was the last as well as the first. Every time +the big wagon jolted over a stone--and it was jolt over stones all the +time--it seemed as if it must topple over the side and roll to the +bottom; and then the way the driver talked to the mules to keep them +straight, and the creaking and scraping of the wagons, was enough to +frighten the most courageous. + +In Confederate Gulch we crossed a ferry that was most marvelous. A +heavy steel cable was stretched across the river--the Missouri--and +fastened securely to each bank, and then a flat boat was chained at +each end to the cable, but so it could slide along when the ferryman +gripped the cable with a large hook, and gave long, hard pulls. Faye +says that the very swift current of the stream assisted him much. + +The river runs through a narrow, deep canon where the ferry is, and at +the time we crossed everything was in dark shadow, and the water +looked black, and fathoms deep, with its wonderful reflections. The +grandeur of these mountains is simply beyond imagination; they have +to be seen to be appreciated, and yet when seen, one can scarcely +comprehend their immensity. We are five hundred miles from a railroad, +with endless chains of these mountains between. All supplies of every +description are brought up that distance by long ox trains--dozens of +wagons in a train, and eight or ten pairs of oxen fastened to the one +long chain that pulls three or four heavily loaded wagons. We passed +many of these trains on the march up, and my heart ached for the poor +patient beasts. + +We are to have one side of a large double house, which will give us as +many rooms as we will need in this isolated place. Hal is in the house +now, with Cagey, and Billie is there also, and has the exclusive run +of one room. The little fellow stood the march finely, and it is all +owing to that terrible old wagon that was such a comfort in some ways, +but caused me so much misery in others. These houses must be quite +warm; they are made of large logs placed horizontally, and the inner +walls are plastered, which will keep out the bitter cold during the +winter. The smallest window has an outside storm window. + +CAMP BAKER, MONTANA TERRITORY, +December, 1877. + +THIS post is far over in the Belt Mountains and quite cut off from the +outside world, and there are very few of us here, nevertheless the +days pass wonderfully fast, and they are pleasant days, also. And then +we have our own little excitements that are of intense interest to us, +even if they are never heard of in the world across the snow and ice. + +The Rae family was very much upset two days ago by the bad behavior of +my horse Bettie, when she managed to throw Faye for the very first +time in his life! You know that both of our horses, although raised +near this place, were really range animals, and were brought in and +broken for us. The black horse has never been very satisfactory, and +Faye has a battle with him almost every time he takes him out, but +Bettie had been lovely and behaved wonderfully well for so young a +horse, and I have been so pleased with her and her delightful gaits--a +little single foot and easy canter. + +The other morning Faye was in a hurry to get out to a lumber camp and, +as I did not care to go, he decided to ride my horse rather than waste +time by arguing with the black as to which road they should go. Ben +always thinks he knows more about such things than his rider. Well, +Kelly led Bettie up from the corral and saddled and bridled her, and +when Faye was ready to start I went out with him to give the horse a +few lumps of sugar. She is a beautiful animal--a bright bay in +color--with perfect head and dainty, expressive ears, and remarkably +slender legs. + +Faye immediately prepared to mount; in fact, bridle in hand, had his +left foot in the stirrup and the right was over the horse, when up +went Miss Bet's back, arched precisely like a mad cat's, and down in +between her fore legs went her pretty nose, and high up in the air +went everything--man and beast--the horse coming down on legs as rigid +and unbending as bars of steel, and then--something happened to Faye! +Nothing could have been more unexpected, and it was all over in a +second. + +Kelly caught the bridle reins in time to prevent the horse from +running away, and Faye got up on his feet, and throwing back his best +West Point shoulders, faced the excited horse, and for two long +seconds he and Miss Bet looked each other square in the eye. Just what +the horse thought no one knows, but Kelly and I remember what Faye +said! All desire to laugh, however, was quickly crushed when I heard +Kelly ordered to lead the horse to the sutler's store, and fit a +Spanish bit to her mouth, and to take the saddle off and strap a +blanket on tight with a surcingle, for I knew that a hard and +dangerous fight between man and horse was about to commence. Faye told +Cagey to chain Hal and then went in the house, soon returning, +however, without a blouse, and with moccasins on his feet and with +leggings. + +When Kelly returned he looked most unhappy, for he loves horses and +has been so proud of Bettie. But Faye was not thinking of Kelly and +proceeded at once to mount, having as much fire in his eyes as the +horse had in hers, for she had already discovered that the bit was not +to her liking. As soon as she felt Faye's weight, up went her back +again, but down she could not get her head, and the more she pushed +down, the harder the spoon of the bit pressed against the roof of her +mouth. This made her furious, and as wild as when first brought from +the range. + +She lunged and lunged--forward and sideways--reared, and of course +tried to run away, but with all the vicious things her little brain +could think of, she could not get the bit from her mouth or Faye from +her back. So she started to rub him off--doing it with thought and in +the most scientific way. She first went to the corner of our house, +then tried the other corner of that end, and so she went on, rubbing +up against every object she saw--house, tree, and fence--even going up +the steps at the post trader's. That I thought very smart, for the bit +was put in her mouth there, and she might have hoped to find some kind +friend who would take it out. + +It required almost two hours of the hardest kind of riding to conquer +the horse, and to teach her that just as long as she held her head up +and behaved herself generally, the bit would not hurt her. She finally +gave in, and is once more a tractable beast, and I have ridden her +twice, but with the Spanish bit. She is a nervous animal and will +always be frisky. It has leaked out that the morning she bucked so +viciously, a cat had been thrown upon her back at the corral by a +playful soldier, just before she had been led up. Kelly did not like +to tell this of a comrade. It was most fortunate that I had decided +not to ride at that time, for a pitch over a horse's head with a skirt +to catch on the pommel is a performance I am not seeking. And Bettie +had been such a dear horse all the time, her single foot and run both +so swift and easy. Kelly says, "Yer cawn't feel yerse'f on her, mum." +Faye is quartermaster, adjutant, commissary, signal officer, and has +other positions that I cannot remember just now, that compel him to be +at his own office for an hour every morning before breakfast, in +addition to the regular office hours during the day. The post +commander is up and out at half past six every workday, and Sundays I +am sure he is a most unhappy man. But Faye gets away for a hunt now +and then, and the other day he started off, much to my regret, all +alone and with only a rifle. I worry when he goes alone up in these +dense forests, and when an officer goes with him I am so afraid of an +accident, that one may shoot the other. It is impossible to take a +wagon, or even ride a horse among the rocks and big boulders. There +are panthers and wild cats and wolves and all sorts of fearful things +up there. The coyotes often come down to the post at night, and their +terrible, unearthly howls drive the dogs almost crazy--and some of the +people, too. + +I worried about Faye the other morning as usual, and thought of all +the dreadful things that could so easily happen. And then I tried to +forget my anxiety by taking a brisk ride on Bettie, but when I +returned I found that Faye had not come, so I worried all the more. +The hours passed and still he was away, and I was becoming really +alarmed. At last there was a shout at a side door, and running out I +found Faye standing up very tall and with a broad smile on his face, +and on the ground at his feet was an immense white-tail deer! He said +that he had walked miles on the mountain but had failed to find one +living thing, and had finally come down and was just starting to cross +the valley on his way home, when he saw the deer, which he fortunately +killed with one shot at very long range. He did not want to leave it +to be devoured by wolves while he came to the corral for a wagon, so +he dragged the heavy thing all the way in. And that was why he was +gone so long, for of course he was obliged to rest every now and then. +I was immensely proud of the splendid deer, but it did not convince me +in the least that it was safe for Faye to go up in that forest alone. +Of course Faye has shot other deer, and mountain sheep also, since we +have been here, but this was the first he had killed when alone. + +Of all the large game we have ever had--buffalo, antelope, black-tail +deer, white-tail deer--the mountain sheep is the most delicious. The +meat is very tender and juicy and exceedingly rich in flavor. It is +very "gamey," of course, and is better after having been frozen or +hung for a few days. These wary animals are most difficult to get, for +they are seldom found except on the peaks of high mountains, where the +many big rocks screen them, so when one is brought in, it is always +with great pride and rejoicing. There are antelope in the lowlands +about here, but none have been brought in since we came to the post. +The ruffed grouse and the tule hens are plentiful, and of course +nothing can be more delicious. + +And the trout are perfect, too, but the manner in which we get them +this frozen-up weather is not sportsmanlike. There is a fine trout +stream just outside the post which is frozen over now, but when we +wish a few nice trout for dinner or breakfast. Cagey and I go down, +and with a hatchet he will cut a hole in the ice through which I fish, +and usually catch all we want in a few minutes. The fish seem to be +hungry and rise quickly to almost any kind of bait except flies. They +seem to know that this is not the fly season. The trout are not very +large, about eight and ten inches long, but they are delicate in +flavor and very delicious. + +Cagey is not a wonderful cook, but he does very well, and I think that +I would much prefer him to a Chinaman, judging from what I have seen +of them here. Mrs. Conrad, wife of Captain Conrad, of the --th +Infantry, had one who was an excellent servant in every way except in +the manner of doing the laundry work. He persisted in putting the +soiled linen in the boiler right from the basket, and no amount of +talk on the part of Mrs. Conrad could induce him to do otherwise. +Monday morning Mrs. Conrad went to the kitchen and told him once more +that he must look the linen over, and rub it with plenty of water and +soap before boiling it. The heathen looked at her with a grin and +said, "Allee light, you no likee my washee, you washee yousel'," and +lifting the boiler from the stove he emptied its entire steaming +contents out upon the floor! He then went to his own room, gathered up +his few clothes and bedding, and started off. He knew full well that +if he did not leave the reservation at once he would be put off after +such a performance. + +CAMP BAKER, MONTANA TERRITORY, +February, 1878. + +HOME seems very cozy and attractive after the mountains of snow and +ice we crossed and re-crossed on our little trip to Helena. The bitter +cold of those canons will long be remembered. But it was a delightful +change from the monotonous life in this out-of-the-way garrison, even +if we did almost freeze on the road, and it was more than pleasant to +be with old friends again. + +The ball at the hall Friday evening was most enjoyable, and it was +simply enchanting to dance once more to the perfect music of the dear +old orchestra. And the young people in Helena are showing their +appreciation of the good music by dancing themselves positively thin +this winter. The band leader brought from New Orleans the Creole music +that was so popular there, and at the ball we danced Les Varietes four +times; the last was at the request of Lieutenant Joyce, with whom I +always danced it in the South. It is thoroughly French, bringing in +the waltz, polka, schottische, mazurka, and redowa. Some of those +Creole girls were the personification of grace in that dance. + +We knew of the ball before leaving home, and went prepared for it, but +had not heard one word about the bal masque to be given by "The Army +Social Club" at Mrs. Gordon's Tuesday evening. We did not have one +thing with us to assist in the make-up of a fancy dress; nevertheless +we decided to attend it. Faye said for me not to give him a thought, +that he could manage his own costume. How I did envy his confidence in +man and things, particularly things, for just then I felt far from +equal to managing my own dress. + +I had been told of some of the costumes that were to be worn by +friends, and they were beautiful, and the more I heard of these +things, the more determined I became that I would not appear in a +domino! So Monday morning I started out for an idea, and this I found +almost immediately in a little shop window. It was only a common +pasteboard mask, but nevertheless it was a work of art. The face was +fat and silly, and droll beyond description, and to look at the thing +and not laugh was impossible. It had a heavy bang of fiery red hair. I +bought it without delay, and was wondering where I could find +something to go with it in that little town, when I met a friend--a +friend indeed--who offered me some widths of silk that had been dyed a +most hideous shade of green. + +I gladly accepted the offer, particularly as this friend is in deep +mourning and would not be at the ball to recognize me. Well, I made +this really awful silk into a very full skirt that just covered my +ankles, and near the bottom I put a broad band of orange-colored +cambric--the stiff and shiny kind. Then I made a Mother Hubbard apron +of white paper-cambric, also very stiff and shiny, putting a big full +ruche of the cambric around neck, yoke, and bottom of sleeves. For my +head I made a large cap of the white cambric with ruche all around, +and fastened it on tight with wide strings that were tied in a large +stiff bow under the chin. We drew my evening dress up underneath both +skirt and apron and pinned it securely on my shoulders, and this made +me stout and shapeless. Around this immense waist and over the apron +was drawn a wide sash of bright pink, glossy cambric that was tied in +a huge bow at the back. But by far the best of all, a real crown of +glory, was a pigtail of red, red hair that hung down my back and +showed conspicuously on the white apron. This was a loan by Mrs. +Joyce, another friend in mourning, and who assisted me in dressing. + +We wanted the benefit of the long mirror in the little parlor of the +hotel, so we carried everything there and locked the door. And then +the fun commenced! I am afraid that Mrs. Joyce's fingers must have +been badly bruised by the dozens of pins she used, and how she laughed +at me! But if I looked half as dreadful as my reflection in the mirror +I must have been a sight to provoke laughter. We had been requested to +give names to our characters, and Mrs. Joyce said I must be "A Country +Girl," but it still seems to me that "An Idiot" would have been more +appropriate. + +I drove over with Major and Mrs. Carleton. The dressing rooms were +crowded at Mrs. Gordon's, so it was an easy matter to slip away, give +my long cloak and thick veil to a maid, and return to Mrs. Carleton +before she had missed me, and it was most laughable to see the dear +lady go in search for me, peering in everyone's face. But she did not +find me, although we went down the stairs and in the drawing-room +together, and neither did one person in those rooms recognize me +during the evening. Lieutenant Joyce said he knew to whom the hair +belonged, but beyond that it was all a mystery. + +That evening will never be forgotten, for, as soon as I saw that no +one knew me, I became a child once more, and the more the maskers +laughed the more I ran around. When I first appeared in the rooms +there was a general giggle and that was exhilarating, so off I went. +After a time Colonel Fitz-James adopted me and tagged around after me +every place; I simply could not get rid of the man. I knew him, of +course, and I also knew that he was mistaking me for some one else, +which made his attentions anything but complimentary. I told him ever +so many times that he did not know me, but he always insisted that it +was impossible for him to be deceived, that he would always know me, +and so on. He was acting in a very silly manner--quite too silly for a +man of his years and a colonel of a regiment, and he was keeping me +from some very nice dances, too, so I decided to lead him a dance, and +commenced a rare flirtation in cozy corners and out-of-the-way places. +I must admit, though, that all the pleasure I derived from it was when +I heard the smothered giggles of those who saw us. The colonel was in +a domino and had not tried to disguise himself. + +We went in to supper together, and I managed to be almost the last one +to unmask, and all the time Colonel Fitz-James, domino removed, was +standing in front of me, and looking down with a smile of serene +expectancy. The colonel of a regiment is a person of prominence, +therefore many people in the room were watching us, not one +suspecting, however, who I was. So when I did take off the mask there +was a shout: "Why, it is Mrs. Rae," and "Oh, look at Mrs. Rae," and +several friends came up to us. Well, I wish you could have seen the +colonel's face--the mingled surprise and almost horror that was +expressed upon it. Of course the vain man had placed himself in a +ridiculous position, chasing around and flirting with the wife of one +of his very own officers--a second lieutenant at that! It came out +later that he, and others also, had thought that I was a Helena girl +whom the colonel admires very much. It was rather embarrassing, too, +to be told that the girl was sitting directly opposite on the other +side of the room, where she was watching us with two big, black eyes. +And then farther down I saw Faye also looking at us--but then, a man +never can see things from a woman's view point. + +The heat and weight of the two dresses had been awful, and as soon as +I could get away, I ran to a dressing room and removed the cambric. +But the pins! There seemed to be thousands of them. Some of the +costumes were beautiful and costly, also. Mrs. Manson, a lovely little +woman of Helena, was "A Comet." Her short dress of blue silk was +studded with gold stars, and to each shoulder was fastened a long, +pointed train of yellow gauze sprinkled with diamond dust. An immense +gold star with a diamond sunburst in the center was above her +forehead, and around her neck was a diamond necklace. Mrs. Palmer, +wife of Colonel Palmer, was "King of Hearts," the foundation a +handsome red silk. Mrs. Spencer advertised the New York Herald; the +whole dress, which was flounced to the waist, was made of the headings +of that paper. Major Blair was recognized by no one as "An American +citizen," in plain evening dress. I could not find Faye at all, and he +was in a simple red domino, too. + +I cannot begin to tell you of the many lovely costumes that seemed +most wonderful to me, for you must remember that we were far up in the +Rocky Mountains, five hundred miles from a railroad! I will send you a +copy of the Helena paper that gives an account of the ball, in which +you will read that "Mrs. Rae was inimitable--the best sustained +character in the rooms." I have thought this over some, and I consider +the compliment doubtful. + +We remained one day longer in Helena than we had expected for the bal +masque; consequently we were obliged to start back the very next +morning, directly after breakfast, and that was not pleasant, for we +were very tired. The weather had been bitter cold, but during the +night a chinook had blown up, and the air was warm and balmy as we +came across the valley. When we reached the mountains, however, it was +freezing again, and there was glassy ice every place, which made +driving over the grades more dangerous than usual. In many places the +ambulance wheels had to be "blocked," and the back and front wheels of +one side chained together so they could not turn, in addition to the +heavy brake, and then the driver would send the four sharp-shod mules +down at a swinging trot that kept the ambulance straight, and did not +give it time to slip around and roll us down to eternity. + +There is one grade on this road that is notoriously dangerous, and +dreaded by every driver around here because of the many accidents that +have occurred there. It is cut in the side of a high mountain and has +three sharp turns back and forth, and the mountain is so steep, it is +impossible to see from the upper grade all of the lower that leads +down into the canon called White's Gulch. This one mountain grade is a +mile and a half long. But the really dangerous place is near the +middle turn, where a warm spring trickles out of the rocks and in +winter forms thick ice over the road; and if this ice cannot be broken +up, neither man nor beast can walk over, as it is always thicker on +the inner side. + +I was so stiffened from the overheating and try-to-fool dancing at +Mrs. Gordon's, it was with the greatest difficulty I could walk at all +on the slippery hills, and was constantly falling down, much to the +amusement of Faye and the driver. But ride down some of them I would +not. At Canon Ferry, where we remained over night, the ice in the +Missouri was cracked, and there were ominous reports like pistol shots +down in the canon below. At first Faye thought it would be impossible +to come over, but the driver said he could get everything across, if +he could come at once. Faye walked over with me, and then went back to +assist the driver with the mules that were still on the bank refusing +to step upon the ice. But Faye led one leader, and the driver lashed +and yelled at all of them, and in this way they crossed, each mule +snorting at every step. + +There were the most dreadful groans and creakings and loud reports +during the entire night, and in the morning the river was clear, +except for a few pieces of ice that were still floating down from +above. The Missouri is narrow at Canon Ferry, deep and very swift, and +it is a dreadful place to cross at any time, on the ice, or on the +cable ferryboat. They catch a queer fish there called the "ling." It +has three sides, is long and slender, and is perfectly blind. They +gave us some for supper and it was really delicious. + +We found everything in fine order upon our return, and it was very +evident that Cagey had taken good care of the house and Hal, but +Billie grayback had taken care of himself. He was given the run of my +room, but I had expected, of course, that he would sleep in his own +box, as usual. But no, the little rascal in some way discovered the +warmth of the blankets on my bed, and in between these he had +undoubtedly spent most of the time during our absence, and there we +found him after a long search, and there he wants to stay all the time +now, and if anyone happens to go near the bed they are greeted with +the fiercest kind of smothered growls. + +The black horse has been sold, and Faye has bought another, a sorrel, +that seems to be a very satisfactory animal. He is not as handsome as +Ben, nor as fractious, either. Bettie is behaving very well, but is +still nervous, and keeps her forefeet down just long enough to get +herself over the ground. She is beautiful, and Kelly simply adores her +and keeps her bright-red coat like satin. Faye can seldom ride with me +because of his numerous duties, and not one of the ladies rides here, +so I have Kelly go, for one never knows what one may come across on +the roads around here. They are so seldom traveled, and are little +more than trails. + +CAMP BAKER, MONTANA TERRITORY, +March, 1878. + +THE mail goes out in the morning, and in it a letter must be sent to +you, but it is hard--hard for me to write--to have to tell you that my +dear dog, my beautiful greyhound, is dead--dead and buried! It seems +so cruel that he should have died now, so soon after getting back to +his old home, friends, and freedom. On Tuesday, Faye and Lieutenant +Lomax went out for a little hunt, letting Hal go with them, which was +unusual, and to which I objected, for Lieutenant Lomax is a +notoriously poor shot and hunter, and I was afraid he might +accidentally kill Hal--mistake him for a wild animal. So, as they went +down our steps I said, "Please do not shoot my dog!" much more in +earnest than in jest, for I felt that he would really be in danger, as +it would be impossible to keep him with them all the time. + +As they went across the parade ground, rifles over their shoulders, +Hal jumped up on Faye and played around him, expressing his delight at +being allowed to go on a hunt. He knew what a gun was made for just as +well as the oldest hunter. That was the last I saw of my dog! Faye +returned long before I had expected him, and one quick glance at his +troubled face told me that something terrible had happened. I saw that +he was unhurt and apparently well, but--where was Hal? With an awful +pain in my heart I asked, "Did Lieutenant Lomax shoot Hal?" After a +second's hesitation Faye said "No; but Hal is dead!" It seemed too +dreadful to be true, and at first I could not believe it, for it had +been only such a short time since I had seen him bounding and leaping, +evidently in perfect health, and oh, so happy! + +No one in the house even thought of dinner that night, and poor black +Cagey sobbed and moaned so loud and long Faye was obliged to ask him +to be quiet. For hours I could not listen to the particulars. Faye +says that they had not gone out so very far when he saw a wild cat +some distance away, and taking careful aim, he shot it, but the cat, +instead of falling, started on a fast run. Hal was in another +direction, but when he heard the report of the rifle and saw the cat +running, he started after it with terrific speed and struck it just as +the cat fell, and then the two rolled over and over together. + +He got up and stood by Faye and Lieutenant Lomax while they examined +the cat, and if there was anything wrong with him it was not noticed. +But when they turned to come to the post, dragging the dead cat after +them, Faye heard a peculiar sound, and looking back saw dear Hal on +the ground in a fit much like vertigo. He talked to him and petted +him, thinking he would soon be over it--and the plucky dog did get up +and try to follow, but went down again and for the last time The swift +run and excitement caused by encountering an animal wholly different +from anything he had ever seen before was too great a strain upon the +weak heart. + +Before coming to the house Faye had ordered a detail out to bury him, +with instructions to cover the grave with pieces of glass to keep the +wolves away. The skin and head of the cat, which was really a lynx, +are being prepared for a rug, but I do not see how I can have the +thing in the house, although the black spots and stripes with the +white make the fur very beautiful. The ball passed straight through +the body. + +The loneliness of the house is awful, and at night I imagine that I +hear him outside whining to come in. Many a cold night have I been up +two and three times to straighten his bed and cover him up. His bed +was the skin of a young buffalo, and he knew just when it was smooth +and nice, and then he would almost throw himself down, with a sigh of +perfect content. If I did not cover him at once, he would get up and +drop down again, and there he would stay hours at a time with the fur +underneath and over him, with just his nose sticking out. He suffered +keenly from the intense cold here because his hair was so short and +fine. And then he was just from the South, too, where he was too warm +most of the time. + +It makes me utterly wretched to think of the long year he was away +from us at Baton Rouge. But what could we have done? We could not have +had him with us, in the very heart of New Orleans, for he had already +been stolen from us at Jackson Barracks, a military post! + +With him passed the very last of his blood, a breed of greyhounds that +was known in Texas, Kansas, and Colorado as wonderful hunters, also +remarkable for their pluck and beauty of form. Hal was a splendid +hunter, and ever on the alert for game. Not one morsel of it would he +eat, however, not even a piece of domestic fowl, which he seemed to +look upon as game. Sheep he considered fine game, and would chase them +every opportunity that presented itself. This was his one bad trait, +an expensive one sometimes, but it was the only one, and was +overbalanced many times by his lovable qualities that made him a +favorite with all. Every soldier in the company loved him and was +proud of him, and would have shared his dinner with the dog any day if +called upon to do so. + +NATIONAL HOTEL, HELENA, MONTANA TERRITORY, +May, 1878. + +TO hear that we are no longer at Camp Baker will be a surprise, but +you must have become accustomed to surprises of this kind long ago. +Regimental headquarters, the companies that have been quartered at the +Helena fair grounds during the winter, and the two companies from Camp +Baker, started from here this morning on a march to the Milk River +country, where a new post is to be established on Beaver Creek. It is +to be called Fort Assiniboine. The troops will probably be in camp +until fall, when they will go to Fort Shaw. + +We had been given no warning whatever of this move, and had less than +two days in which to pack and crate everything. And I can assure you +that in one way it was worse than being ranked out, for this time +there was necessity for careful packing and crating, because of the +rough mountain roads the wagons had to come over. But there were no +accidents, and our furniture and boxes are safely put away here in a +government storehouse. + +At the time the order came, Faye was recorder for a board of survey +that was being held at the post, and this, in addition to turning over +quartermaster and other property, kept him hard at work night and day, +so the superintendence of all things pertaining to the house and camp +outfit fell to my lot. The soldiers were most willing and most +incompetent, and it kept me busy telling them what to do. The +mess-chest, and Faye's camp bedding are always in readiness for +ordinary occasions, but for a camp of several months in this climate, +where it can be really hot one day and freezing cold the next, it was +necessary to add many more things. Just how I managed to accomplish so +much in so short a time I do not know, but I do know that I was up and +packing every precious minute the night before we came away, and the +night seemed very short too. But everything was taken to the wagons in +very good shape, and that repaid me for much of the hard work and +great fatigue. + +And I was tired--almost too tired to sit up, but at eight o'clock I +got in an ambulance and came nearly forty miles that one day! Major +Stokes and Captain Martin had been on the board of survey, and as they +were starting on the return trip to Helena, I came over with them, +which not only got me here one day in advance of the company, but +saved Faye the trouble of providing for me in camp on the march from +Camp Baker. We left the post just as the troops were starting out. +Faye was riding Bettie and Cagey was on Pete. + +I brought Billie, of course, and at Canon Ferry I lost that squirrel! +After supper I went directly to my room to give him a little run and +to rest a little myself, but before opening his box I looked about for +places where he might escape, and seeing a big crack under one of the +doors, covered it with Faye's military cape, thinking, as I did so, +that it would be impossible for a squirrel to crawl through such a +narrow place. Then I let him out. Instead of running around and shying +at strange objects as he usually does, he ran straight to that cape, +and after two or three pulls with his paws, flattened his little gray +body, and like a flash he and the long bushy tail disappeared! I was +en deshabille, but quickly slipped on a long coat and ran out after +him. + +Very near my door was one leading to the kitchen, and so I went on +through, and the very first thing stumbled over a big cat! This made +me more anxious than ever, but instead of catching the beast and +shutting it up, I drove it away. In the kitchen, which was dining room +also, sat the two officers and a disagreeable old man, and at the +farther end was a woman washing dishes. I told them about Billie and +begged them to keep very quiet while I searched for him. Then that old +man laughed. That was quite too much for my overtaxed nerves, and I +snapped out that I failed to see anything funny. But still he laughed, +and said, "Perhaps you don't, but we do." I was too worried and +unhappy to notice what he meant, and continued to look for Billie. + +But the little fellow I could not find any place in the house or +outside, where we looked with a lantern. When I returned to my room I +discovered why the old man laughed, for truly I was a funny sight. I +had thought my coat much longer than it really was--that is all I am +willing to say about it. I was utterly worn out, and every bone in my +body seemed to be rebelling about something, still I could not sleep, +but listened constantly for Billie. I blamed myself so much for not +having shut up the cat and fancied I heard the cat chasing him. + +After a long, long time, it seemed hours, I heard a faint noise like a +scratch on tin, and lighting a lamp quickly, I went to the kitchen and +then listened. But not a sound was to be heard. At the farther end a +bank had been cut out to make room for the kitchen, which gave it a +dirt wall almost to the low ceiling, and all across this wall were +many rows of shelves where tins of all sorts and cooking utensils were +kept, and just above the top shelf was a hole where the cat could go +out on the bank. I put the lamp back of me on the table and kept very +still and looked all along the shelves, but saw nothing of Billie. +Finally, I heard the little scratch again, and looking closely at some +large tins where I thought the sound had come from, I saw the little +squirrel. He was sitting up in between two of the pans that were +almost his own color, with his head turned one side, and "hands on his +heart," watching me inquisitively with one black eye. + +He was there and apparently unharmed, but to catch him was another +matter. I approached him in the most cautious manner, talking and +cooing to him all the time, and at last I caught him, and the little +fellow was so glad to be with friends once more, he curled himself in +my hands, and put two little wet paws around a thumb and held on +tight. It was raining, and he was soaking wet, so he must have been +out of doors. It would have been heartbreaking to have been obliged to +come away without finding that little grayback, and perhaps never know +what became of him. I know where my dear dog is, and that is bad +enough. We heard just before leaving the post that men of the company +had put up a board at Hal's grave with his name cut in it. We knew +that they loved him and were proud of him, but never dreamed that any +one of them would show so much sentiment. Faye has taken the horses +with him and Cagey also. + +The young men of Helena gave the officers an informal dance last +night. At first it promised to be a jolly affair, but finally, as the +evening wore on, the army people became more and more quiet, and at +the last it was distressing to see the sad faces that made dancing +seem a farce. They are going to an Indian country, and the separation +may be long. I expect to remain here for the present, but shall make +every effort to get to Benton after a while, where I will be nearly +one hundred and fifty miles nearer Faye. The wife of the adjutant and +her two little children are in this house, and other families of +officers are scattered all over the little town. + +COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL, HELENA, MONTANA TERRITORY, +August, 1878. + +YOU will see that at last I decided to move over to this hotel. I made +a great mistake in not coming before and getting away from the cross +old housekeeper at the International, who could not be induced by +entreaties, fees, or threats, to get the creepy, crawly things out of +my room. How I wish that every one of them would march over to her +some fine night and keep her awake as they have kept me. It made me so +unhappy to leave Mrs. Hull there with a sick child, but she would not +come with me, although she must know it would be better for her and +the boy to be here, where everything is kept so clean and attractive. +There are six wives of officers in the house, among them the wife of +General Bourke, who is in command of the regiment. She invited me to +sit at her table, and I find it very pleasant there. She is a bride +and almost a stranger to us. + +The weather has been playing all sorts of pranks upon us lately, and +we hardly know whether we are in the far North or far South. For two +weeks it was very warm, positively hot in this gulch, but yesterday we +received a cooling off in the form of a brisk snowstorm that lasted +nearly two hours. Mount Helena was white during the rest of the day, +and even now long streaks of snow can be seen up and down the peak. +But a snowstorm in August looked very tame after the awful cloud-burst +that came upon us without warning a few days before, and seemed +determined to wash the whole town down to the Missouri River. + +It was about eleven o'clock, and four of us had gone to the shops to +look at some pretty things that had just been brought over from a boat +at Fort Benton by ox train. Mrs. Pierce and Mrs. Hull had stopped at a +grocery next door, expecting to join Mrs. Joyce and me in a few +minutes. But before they could make a few purchases, a few large drops +of rain began to splash down, and there was a fierce flash of +lightning and deafening thunder, then came the deluge! Oceans of water +seemed to be coming down, and before we realized what was happening, +things in the street and things back of the store were being rushed to +the valley below. + +All along the gulch runs a little stream that comes from the canon +above the town. The stream is tiny and the bed is narrow. On either +side of it are stores with basements opening out on these banks. Well, +in an alarmingly short time that innocent-looking little creek had +become a roaring, foaming black river, carrying tables, chairs, +washstands, little bridges--in fact everything it could tear up--along +with it to the valley. Many of these pieces of furniture lodged +against the carriage bridge that was just below the store where we +were, making a dangerous dam, so a man with a stout rope around his +waist went in the water to throw them out on the bank, but he was +tossed about like a cork, and could do nothing. Just as they were +about to pull him in the bridge gave way, and it was with the greatest +difficulty he was kept from being swept down with the floating +furniture. He was dragged back to our basement in an almost +unconscious condition, and with many cuts and bruises. + +The water was soon in the basements of the stores, where it did much +damage. The store we were in is owned by a young man--one of the beaux +of the town--and I think the poor man came near losing his mind. He +rushed around pulling his hair one second, and wringing his hands the +next, and seemed perfectly incapable of giving one order, or assisting +his clerks in bringing the dripping goods from the basement. Very +unlike the complacent, diamond-pin young man we had danced with at the +balls! + +The cloud-burst on Mount Helena had caused many breaks in the enormous +ditches that run around the mountain and carry water to the mines on +the other side. No one can have the faintest conception of how +terrible a cloud-burst is until they have been in one. It is like +standing under an immense waterfall. At the very beginning we noticed +the wagon of a countryman across the street with one horse hitched to +it. The horse was tied so the water from an eaves trough poured +directly upon his back, and not liking that, he stepped forward, which +brought the powerful stream straight to the wagon. + +Unfortunately for the owner, the wagon had been piled high with all +sorts of packages, both large and small, and all in paper or paper +bags. One by one these were swept out, and as the volume of water +increased in force and the paper became wet and easily torn, their +contents went in every direction. Down in the bottom was a large bag +of beans, and when the pipe water reached this, there was a white +spray resembling a geyser. Not one thing was left in that wagon--even +sacks of potatoes and grain were washed out! It is a wonder that the +poor horse took it all as patiently as he did. + +During all this time we had not even heard from our friends next door; +after a while, however, we got together, but it was impossible to +return to the hotel for a long time, because of the great depth of +water in the street. Mrs. Pierce, whose house is on the opposite side +of the ravine, could not get to her home until just before dark, after +a temporary bridge had been built across the still high stream. Not +one bridge was left across the creek, and they say that nothing has +been left at Chinatown--that it was washed clean. Perhaps there is +nothing to be regretted in this, however, except that any amount of +dirt has been piled up right in the heart of Helena. The millionaire +residents seem to think that the great altitude and dry atmosphere +will prevent any ill effects of decaying debris. + +We went to the assay building the other day to see a brick of gold +taken from the furnace. The mold was run out on its little track soon +after we got there, and I never dreamed of what "white heat" really +means, until I saw the oven of that awful furnace. We had to stand far +across the room while the door was open, and even then the hot air +that shot out seemed blasting. The men at the furnace were protected, +of course. The brick mold was in another mold that after a while was +put in cold water, so we had to wait for first the large and then the +small to be opened before we saw the beautiful yellow brick that was +still very hot, but we were assured that it was then too hard to be in +danger of injury. It was of the largest size, and shaped precisely +like an ordinary building brick, and its value was great. It was to be +shipped on the stage the next morning on its way to the treasury in +Washington. + +It is wonderful that so few of those gold bricks are stolen from the +stage. The driver is their only protector, and the stage route is +through miles and miles of wild forests, and in between huge boulders +where a "hold-up" could be so easily accomplished. + +CAMP ON MARIAS RIVER, MONTANA TERRITORY, +September, 1878. + +AN old proverb tells us that "All things come to him who waits," +but I never had faith in this, for I have patiently waited many times +for things that never found me. But this time, after I had waited and +waited the tiresome summer through, ever hoping to come to Fort +Benton, and when I was about discouraged, "things come," and here I am +in camp with Faye, and ever so much more comfortable than I would have +been at the little old hotel at Benton. + +There are only two companies here now--all the others having gone with +regimental headquarters to Fort Shaw--otherwise I could not be here, +for I could not have come to a large camp. Our tents are at the +extreme end of the line in a grove of small trees, and next to ours is +the doctor's, so we are quite cut off from the rest of the camp. Cagey +is here, and Faye has a very good soldier cook, so the little mess, +including the doctor, is simply fine. I am famished all the time, for +everything tastes so delicious after the dreadful hotel fare. The two +horses are here, and I brought my saddle over, and this morning Faye +and I had a delightful ride out on the plain. But how I did miss my +dear dog! He was always so happy when with us and the horses, and his +joyous bounds and little runs after one thing and another added much +to the pleasure of our rides. + +Fort Benton is ten miles from camp, and Faye met me there with an +ambulance. I was glad enough to get away from that old stage. It was +one of the jerky, bob-back-and-forth kind that pitches you off the +seat every five minutes. The first two or three times you bump heads +with the passenger sitting opposite, you can smile and apologize with +some grace, but after a while your hat will not stay in place and your +head becomes sensitive, and finally, you discover that the passenger +is the most disagreeable person you ever saw, and that the man sitting +beside you is inconsiderate and selfish, and really occupying two +thirds of the seat. + +We came a distance of one hundred and forty miles, getting fresh +horses every twenty miles or so. The morning we left Helena was +glorious, and I was half ashamed because I felt so happy at coming +from the town, where so many of my friends were in sorrow, but tried +to console myself with the fact that I had been ordered away by Doctor +Gordon. There were many cases of typhoid fever, and the rheumatic +fever that has made Mrs. Sargent so ill has developed into typhoid, +and there is very little hope for her recovery. + +The driver would not consent to my sitting on top with him, so I had +to ride inside with three men. They were not rough-looking at all, and +their clothes looked clean and rather new, but gave one the impression +that they had been made for other people. Their pale faces told that +they were "tenderfeet," and one could see there was a sad lacking of +brains all around. + +The road comes across a valley the first ten or twelve miles, and then +runs into a magnificent canon that is sixteen miles long, called +Prickly-Pear Canon. As I wrote some time ago, everything is brought up +to this country by enormous ox trains, some coming from the railroad +at Corinne, and some that come from Fort Benton during the Summer, +having been brought up by boat on the Missouri River. In the canons +these trains are things to be dreaded. The roads are very narrow and +the grades often long and steep, with immense boulders above and +below. + +We met one of those trains soon after we entered the canon, and at the +top of a grade where the road was scarcely wider than the stage itself +and seemed to be cut into a wall of solid rock. Just how we were to +pass those huge wagons I did not see. But the driver stopped his +horses and two of the men got out, the third stopping on the step and +holding on to the stage so it was impossible for me to get out, unless +I went out the other door and stood on the edge of an awful precipice. +The driver looked back, and not seeing me, bawled out, "Where is the +lady?" "Get the lady out!" The man on the step jumped down then, but +the driver did not put his reins down, or move from his seat until he +had seen me safely on the ground and had directed me where to stand. + +In the meantime some of the train men had come up, and, as soon as the +stage driver was ready, they proceeded to lift the stage--trunks and +all--over and on some rocks and tree tops, and then the four horses +were led around in between other rocks, where it seemed impossible for +them to stand one second. There were three teams to come up, each +consisting of about eight yoke of oxen and three or four wagons. It +made me almost ill to see the poor patient oxen straining and pulling +up the grade those huge wagons so heavily loaded. The crunching and +groaning of the wagons, rattling of the enormous cable chains, and the +creaking of the heavy yokes of the oxen were awful sounds, but above +all came the yells of the drivers, and the sharp, pistol-like reports +of the long whips that they mercilessly cracked over the backs of the +poor beasts. It was most distressing. + +After the wagons had all passed, men came back and set the stage on +the road in the same indifferent way and with very few words. Each man +seemed to know just what to do, as though he had been training for +years for the moving of that particular stage. The horses had not +stirred and had paid no attention to the yelling and cracking of +whips. While coming through the canons we must have met six or seven +of those trains, every one of which necessitated the setting in +mid-air of the stage coach. It was the same performance always, each +man knowing just what to do, and doing it, too, without loss of time. +Not once did the driver put down the reins until he saw that "the +lady" was safely out and it was ever with the same sing-song, "balance +to the right," voice that he asked about me--except once, when he +seemed to think more emphasis was needed, when he made the canon ring +by yelling, "Why in hell don't you get the lady out!" But the lady +always got herself out. Rough as he was, I felt intuitively that I had +a protector. We stopped at Rock Creek for dinner, and there he saw +that I had the best of everything, and it was the same at Spitzler's, +where we had supper. + +We got fresh horses at The Leavings, and when I saw a strange driver +on the seat my heart sank, fearing that from there on I might not have +the same protection. We were at a large ranch--sort of an inn--and +just beyond was Frozen Hill. The hill was given that name because a +number of years ago a terrible blizzard struck some companies of +infantry while on it, and before they could get to the valley below, +or to a place of shelter, one half of the men were more or less +frozen--some losing legs, some arms. They had been marching in thin +clothing that was more or less damp from perspiration, as the day had +been excessively hot. These blizzards are so fierce and wholly +blinding, it is unsafe to move a step if caught out in one on the +plains, and the troops probably lost their bearings as soon as the +storm struck them. + +It was almost dark when we got in the stage to go on, and I thought it +rather queer that the driver should have asked us to go to the corral, +instead of his driving around to the ranch for us. Very soon we were +seated, but we did not start, and there seemed to be something wrong, +judging by the way the stage was being jerked, and one could feel, +too, that the brake was on. One by one those men got out, and just as +the last one stepped down on one side the heads of two cream-colored +horses appeared at the open door on the other side, their big troubled +eyes looking straight at me. + +During my life on the frontier I have seen enough of native horses to +know that when a pair of excited mustang leaders try to get inside a +stage, it is time for one to get out, so I got out! One of those men +passengers instantly called to me, "You stay in there!" I asked, +"Why?" "Because it is perfectly safe," said a second man. I was very +indignant at being spoken to in this way and turned my back to them. +The driver got the leaders in position, and then looking around, said +to me that when the balky wheelers once started they would run up the +hill "like the devil," and I would surely be left unless I was inside +the stage. + +I knew that he was telling the truth, and if he had been the first man +to tell me to get in the coach I would have done so at once, but it so +happened that he was the fourth, and by that time I was beginning to +feel abused. It was bad enough to have to obey just one man, when at +home, and then to have four strange men--three of them idiots, +too--suddenly take upon themselves to order me around was not to be +endured. I had started on the trip with the expectation of taking care +of myself, and still felt competent to do so. Perhaps I was very +tired, and perhaps I was very cross. At all events I told the driver I +would not get in--that if I was left I would go back to the ranch. So +I stayed outside, taking great care, however, to stand close to the +stage door. + +The instant I heard the loosening of the brake I jumped up on the +step, and catching a firm hold each side of the door, was about to +step in when one of those men passengers grabbed my arm and tried to +jerk me back, so he could get in ahead of me! It was a dreadful thing +for anyone to do, for if my hands and arms had not been unusually +strong from riding hard-mouthed horses, I would undoubtedly have been +thrown underneath the big wheels and horribly crushed, for the four +horses were going at a terrific gait, and the jerky was swaying like a +live thing. As it was, anger and indignation gave me extra strength +and I scrambled inside with nothing more serious happening than a +bruised head. But that man! He pushed in back of me and, not knowing +the nice little ways of jerkies, was pitched forward to the floor with +an awful thud. But after a second or so he pulled himself up on his +seat, which was opposite mine, and there we two sat in silence and in +darkness. I noticed the next morning that there was a big bruise on +one side of his face, at the sight of which I rejoiced very much. + +It was some distance this side of the hill when the driver stopped his +horses and waited for the two men who had been left. They seemed much +exhausted when they came up, but found sufficient breath to abuse the +driver for having left them; but he at once roared out, "Get in, I +tell you, or I'll leave you sure enough!" That settled matters, and we +started on again. Very soon those men fell asleep and rolled off their +seats to the floor, where they snored and had bad dreams. I was jammed +in a corner without mercy, and of course did not sleep one second +during the long wretched night. Twice we stopped for fresh horses, and +at both places I walked about a little to rest my cramped feet and +limbs. At breakfast the next morning I asked the driver to let me ride +on top with him, which he consented to, and from there on to Benton I +had peace and fresh air--the glorious air of Montana. + +Yesterday--the day after I got here--I was positively ill from the +awful shaking up, mental as well as physical, I received on that stage +ride. We reached Benton at eleven. Faye was at the hotel with an +ambulance when the stage drove up, and it was amusing to look at the +faces of those men when they saw Faye in his uniform, and the +government outfit. We started for camp at once, and left them standing +on the hotel porch watching us as we drove down the street. It is a +pity that such men cannot be compelled to serve at least one +enlistment in the Army, and be drilled into something that resembles a +real man. But perhaps recruiting officers would not accept them. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +October, 1878. + +MY stay at the little town of Sun River Crossing was short, for when I +arrived there the other day in the stage from Benton, I found a note +awaiting me from Mrs. Bourke, saying that I must come right on to Fort +Shaw, so I got back in the stage and came to the post, a distance of +five miles, where General Bourke was on the lookout for me. He is in +command of the regiment as well as the post, as Colonel Fitz-James is +still in Europe. Of course regimental headquarters and the band are +here, which makes the garrison seem very lively to me. The band is out +at guard mounting every pleasant morning, and each Friday evening +there is a fine concert in the hall by the orchestra, after which we +have a little dance. The sun shines every day, but the air is cool and +crisp and one feels that ice and snow are not very far off. + +The order for the two companies on the Marias to return to the Milk +River country was most unexpected. That old villain Sitting Bull, +chief of the Sioux Indians, made an official complaint to the "Great +Father" that the half-breeds were on land that belonged to his people, +and were killing buffalo that were theirs also. So the companies have +been sent up to arrest the half-breeds and conduct them to Fort +Belknap, and to break up their villages and burn their cabins. The +officers disliked the prospect of doing all this very much, for there +must be many women and little children among them. Just how long it +will take no one can tell, but probably three or four weeks. + +And while Faye is away I am staying with General and Mrs. Bourke. I +cannot have a house until he comes, for quarters cannot be assigned to +an officer until he has reported for duty at a post. There are two +companies of the old garrison here still, and this has caused much +doubling up among the lieutenants--that is, assigning one set of +quarters to two officers--but it has been arranged so we can be by +ourselves. Four rooms at one end of the hospital have been cut off +from the hospital proper by a heavy partition that has been put up at +the end of the long corridor, and these rooms are now being calcimined +and painted. They were originally intended for the contract surgeon. +We will have our own little porch and entrance hall and a nice yard +back of the kitchen. It will all be so much more private and +comfortable in every way than it could possibly have been in quarters +with another family. + +It is delightful to be in a nicely furnished, well-regulated house +once more. The buildings are all made of adobe, and the officers' +quarters have low, broad porches in front, and remind me a little of +the houses at Fort Lyon, only of course these are larger and have more +rooms. There are nice front yards, and on either side of the officers' +walk is a row of beautiful cottonwood trees that form a complete arch. +They are watered by an acequia that brings water from Sun River +several miles above the post. The post is built along the banks of +that river but I do not see from what it derived its name, for the +water is muddy all the time. The country about here is rather rolling, +but there are two large buttes--one called Square Butte that is really +grand, and the other is Crown Butte. The drives up and down the river +are lovely, and I think that Bettie and I will soon have many pleasant +mornings together on these roads. After the slow dignified drives I am +taking almost every day, I wonder how her skittish, affected ways will +seem to me! + +I am so glad to be with the regiment again--that is, with old friends, +although seeing them in a garrison up in the Rocky Mountains is very +different from the life in a large city in the far South! Four +companies are still at Fort Missoula, where the major of the regiment +is in command. Our commanding officer and his wife were there also +during the winter, therefore those of us who were at Helena and Camp +Baker, feel that we must entertain them in some way. Consequently, now +that everyone is settled, the dining and wining has begun. Almost +every day there is a dinner or card party given in their honor, and +several very delightful luncheons have been given. And then the +members of the old garrison, according to army etiquette, have to +entertain those that have just come, so altogether we are very gay. +The dinners are usually quite elegant, formal affairs, beautifully +served with dainty china and handsome silver. The officers appear at +these in full-dress uniform, and that adds much to the brilliancy of +things, but not much to the comfort of the officers, I imagine. + +Everyone is happy in the fall, after the return of the companies from +their hard and often dangerous summer campaign, and settles down for +the winter. It is then that we feel we can feast and dance, and it is +then, too, that garrison life at a frontier post becomes so +delightful. We are all very fond of dancing, so I think that Faye and +I will give a cotillon later on. In fact, it is about all we can do +while living in those four rooms. + +We have Episcopal service each alternate Sunday, when the Rev. Mr. +Clark comes from Helena, a distance of eighty-five miles, to hold one +service for the garrison here and one at the very small village of Sun +River. And once more Major Pierce and I are in the same choir. Doctor +Gordon plays the organ, and beautifully, too. For some time he was +organist in a church at Washington, and of course knows the service +perfectly. Our star, however, is a sergeant! He came to this country +with an opera troupe, but an attack of diphtheria ruined his voice for +the stage, so he enlisted! His voice (barytone) is still of exquisite +quality, and just the right volume for our hall. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +January, 1879. + +THERE has been so much going on in the garrison, and so much for me to +attend to in getting the house settled, I have not had time to write +more than the note I sent about dear little Billie. I miss him +dreadfully, for, small as he was, he was always doing something +cunning, always getting into mischief. He died the day we moved to +this house, and it hurts even now when I think of how I was kept from +caring for him the last day of his short life. And he wanted to be +with me, too, for when I put him in his box he would cling to my +fingers and try to get back to me. It is such a pity that we ever +cracked his nuts. His lower teeth had grown to perfect little tusks +that had bored a hole in the roof of his mouth. As soon as that was +discovered, we had them cut off, but it was too late--the little +grayback would not eat. + +We are almost settled now, and Sam, our Chinese cook, is doing +splendidly. At first there was trouble, and I had some difficulty in +convincing him that I was mistress of my own house and not at all +afraid of him. Cagey has gone back to Holly Springs. He had become +utterly worthless during the summer camp, where he had almost nothing +to do. + +Our little entertainment for the benefit of the mission here was a +wonderful success. Every seat was occupied, every corner packed, and +we were afraid that the old theater might collapse. We made eighty +dollars, clear of all expenses. The tableaux were first, so the small +people could be sent home early. Then came our pantomime. Sergeant +Thompson sang the words and the orchestra played a soft accompaniment +that made the whole thing most effective. Major Pierce was a splendid +Villikins, and as Dinah I received enough applause to satisfy anyone, +but the curtain remained down, motionless and unresponsive, just +because I happened to be the wife of the stage manager! + +The prison scene and Miserere from Il Trovatore were beautiful. +Sergeant Mann instructed each one of the singers, and the result was +far beyond our expectations. Of course the fine orchestra of twenty +pieces was a great addition and support. Our duet was not sung, +because I was seized with an attack of stage fright at the last +rehearsal, so Sergeant Mann sang an exquisite solo in place of the +duet, which was ever so much nicer. I was with Mrs. Joyce in one scene +of her pantomime, "John Smith," which was far and away the best part +of the entertainment. Mrs. Joyce was charming, and showed us what a +really fine actress she is. The enlisted men went to laugh, and they +kept up a good-natured clapping and laughing from first to last. + +It was surprising that so many of the Sun River and ranch people came, +for the night was terrible, even for Montana, and the roads must have +been impassable in places. Even here in the post there were great +drifts of snow, and the path to the theater was cut through banks +higher than our heads. It had been mild and pleasant for weeks, and +only two nights before the entertainment we had gone to the hall for +rehearsal with fewer wraps than usual. We had been there about an +hour, I think, when the corporal of the guard came in to report to the +officer of the day, that a fierce blizzard was making it impossible +for sentries to walk post. His own appearance told better than words +what the storm was. He had on a long buffalo coat, muskrat cap and +gauntlets, and the fur from his head down, also heavy overshoes, were +filled with snow, and at each end of his mustache were icicles +hanging. He made a fine, soldierly picture as he brought his rifle to +his side and saluted. The officer of the day hurried out, and after a +time returned, he also smothered in furs and snow. He said the storm +was terrific and he did not see how many of us could possibly get to +our homes. + +But of course we could not remain in the hall until the blizzard had +ceased, so after rehearsing a little more, we wrapped ourselves up as +well as we could and started for our homes. The wind was blowing at +hurricane speed, I am sure, and the heavy fall of snow was being +carried almost horizontally, and how each frozen flake did sting! +Those of us who lived in the garrison could not go very far astray, as +the fences were on one side and banks of snow on the other, but the +light snow had already drifted in between and made walking very slow +and difficult. We all got to our different homes finally, with no +greater mishap than a few slightly frozen ears and noses. Snow had +banked up on the floor inside of our front door so high that for a few +minutes Faye and I thought that we could not get in the house. + +Major Pierce undertook to see Mrs. Elmer safely to her home at the +sutler's store, and in order to get there they were obliged to cross a +wide space in between the officers' line and the store. Nothing could +be seen ten feet from them when they left the last fence, but they +tried to get their bearings by the line of the fence, and closing +their eyes, dashed ahead into the cloud of blinding, stinging snow. +Major Pierce had expected to go straight to a side door of the store, +but the awful strength of the wind and snow pushed them over, and they +struck a corner of the fence farthest away--in fact, they would have +missed the fence also if Mrs. Elmer's fur cape had not caught on one +of the pickets, and gone out on the plains to certain death. Bright +lights had been placed in the store windows, but not one had they +seen. These storms kill so many range cattle, but the most destructive +of all is a freeze after a chinook, that covers the ground with ice so +it is impossible for them to get to the grass. At such times the poor +animals suffer cruelly. We often hear them lowing, sometimes for days, +and can easily imagine that we see the starving beasts wandering on +and on, ever in search of an uncovered bit of grass. The lowing of +hundreds of cattle on a cold winter night is the most horrible sound +one can imagine. + +Cold as it is, I ride Bettie almost every day, but only on the high +ground where the snow has been blown off. We are a funny sight +sometimes when we come in--Bettie's head, neck, and chest white with +her frozen breath, icicles two or three inches long hanging from each +side of her chin, and my fur collar and cap white also. I wear a +sealskin cap with broad ear tabs, long sealskin gauntlets that keep my +hands and arms warm, and high leggings and moccasins of beaver, but +with the fur inside, which makes them much warmer. A tight chamois +skin waist underneath my cadet-cloth habit and a broad fur collar +completes a riding costume that keeps me warm without being bungling. +I found a sealskin coat too warm and heavy. + +No one will ride now and they do not know what fine exercise they are +missing. And I am sure that Bettie is glad to get her blood warm once +during the twenty-four hours. Friends kindly tell me that some day I +will be found frozen out on the plains, and that the frisky Bettie +will kill me, and so on. I ride too fast to feel the cold, and Bettie +I enjoy--all but the airs she assumes inside the post. Our house is +near the center of the officers' line, and no matter which way I go or +what I do, that little beast can never be made to walk one step until +we get out on the road, but insists upon going sideways, tossing her +head, and giving little rears. It looks so affected and makes me feel +very foolish, particularly since Mrs. Conger said to me the other day: +"Why do you make your horse dance that way--he might throw you." I +then asked her if she would not kindly ride Bettie a few times and +teach her to keep her feet down. But she said it was too cold to go +out! + +We have much more room in this house than we had in the hospital, and +are more comfortable every way. Almost every day or evening there is +some sort of an entertainment--german, dinner, luncheon, or card +party. I am so glad that we gave the first cotillon that had ever been +given in the regiment, for it was something new on the frontier; +therefore everyone enjoyed it. Just now the garrison seems to have +gone cotillon crazy, and not being satisfied with a number of private +ones, a german club has been organized that gives dances in the hall +every two weeks. So far Faye has been the leader of each one. With all +this pleasure, the soldiers are not being neglected. Every morning +there are drills and a funny kind of target practice inside the +quarters, and of course there are inspections and other things. + +FORT ELLIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +January, 1879. + +IT is still cold, stinging cold, and we are beginning to think that +there was much truth in what we were told on our way over last +fall--that Fort Ellis is the very coldest place in the whole +territory. For two days the temperature was fifty below, and I can +assure you that things hummed! The logs of our house made loud reports +like pistol shots, and there was frost on the walls of every room that +were not near roaring fires. No one ventures forth such weather unless +compelled to do so, and then, of course, every precaution is taken to +guard against freezing. In this altitude one will freeze before +feeling the cold, as I know from experience, having at the present +time two fiery red ears of enormous size. They are fiery in feeling, +too, as well as in color. + +The atmosphere looks like frozen mist, and is wonderful, and almost at +any time between sunrise and sunset a "sun dog" can be seen with its +scintillating rainbow tints, that are brilliant yet exquisitely +delicate in coloring. Our houses are really very warm--the thick logs +are plastered inside and papered, every window has a storm sash and +every room a double floor, and our big stoves can burn immense logs. +But notwithstanding all this, our greatest trial is to keep things to +eat. Everything freezes solid, and so far we have not found one edible +that is improved by freezing. It must be awfully discouraging to a +cook to find on a biting cold morning, that there is not one thing in +the house that can be prepared for breakfast until it has passed +through the thawing process; that even the water in the barrels has +become solid, round pieces of ice! All along the roof of one side of +our house are immense icicles that almost touch the snow on the +ground. These are a reminder of the last chinook! + +But only last week it was quite pleasant--not real summery, but warm +enough for one to go about in safety. Faye came down from the saw-mill +one of those days to see the commanding officer about something and to +get the mail. When he was about to start back, in fact, was telling me +good-by, I happened to say that I wished I could go, too. Faye said: +"You could not stand the exposure, but you might wear my little fur +coat" Suggesting the coat was a give-in that I at once took advantage +of, and in precisely twenty minutes Charlie, our Chinese cook, had +been told what to do, a few articles of clothing wrapped and strapped, +and I on Bettie's back ready for the wilds. An old soldier on a big +corral horse was our only escort, and to his saddle were fastened our +various bags and bundles. + +Far up a narrow valley that lies in between two mountain ranges, the +government has a saw-mill that is worked by twenty or more soldiers +under the supervision of an officer, where lumber can be cut when +needed for the post. One of these ranges is very high, and Mount +Bridger, first of the range and nearest Fort Ellis, along whose base +we had to go, has snow on its top most of the year. Often when wind is +not noticeable at the post, we can see the light snow being blown with +terrific force from the peak of this mountain for hundreds of yards in +a perfectly horizontal line, when it will spread out and fall in a +magnificent spray another two or three hundred feet. + +The mill is sixteen miles from Fort Ellis, and the snow was very +deep--so deep in places that the horses had difficulty in getting +their feet forward, and as we got farther up, the valley narrowed into +a ravine where the snow was even deeper. There was no road or even +trail to be seen; the bark on trees had been cut to mark the way, but +far astray we could not have gone unless we had deliberately ridden up +the side of a mountain. The only thing that resembled a house along +the sixteen miles was a deserted cabin about half way up, and which +only accentuated the awful loneliness. + +Bettie had been standing in the stable for several days, and that, +with the biting cold air in the valley, made her entirely too frisky, +and she was very nervous, too, over the deep snow that held her feet +down. We went Indian file--I always in the middle--as there were +little grades and falling-off places all along that were hidden by the +snow, and I was cautioned constantly by Faye and Bryant to keep my +horse in line. The snow is very fine and dry in this altitude, and +never packs as it does in a more moist atmosphere. + +When we had ridden about one half the distance up we came to a little +hill, at the bottom of which was known to be a bridge that crossed the +deep-cut banks of one of those mountain streams that are dry eleven +months of the year and raging torrents the twelfth, when the snow +melts. It so happened that Faye did not get on this bridge just right, +so down in the light snow he and Pete went, and all that we could see +of them were Faye's head and shoulders and the head of the horse with +the awful bulging eyes! Poor Pete was terribly frightened, and +floundered about until he nearly buried himself in snow as he tried to +find something solid upon which to put his feet. + +I was just back of Faye when he went down, but the next instant I had +retreated to the top of the hill, and had to use all the strength in +my arms to avoid being brought back to the post. When Bettie saw Pete +go down, she whirled like a flash and with two or three bounds was on +top of the hill again. She was awfully frightened and stood close to +Bryant's horse, trembling all over. Poor Bryant did not know what to +do or which one to assist, so I told him to go down and get the +lieutenant up on the bank and I would follow. Just how Faye got out of +his difficulty I did not see, for I was too busy attending to my own +affairs. Bettie acted as though she was bewitched, and go down to the +bridge she would not. Finally, when I was about tired out, Faye said +we must not waste more time there and that I had better ride Pete. + +So I dismounted and the saddles were changed, and then there was more +trouble. Pete had never been ridden by a woman before, and thinking, +perhaps, that his sudden one-sidedness was a part of the bridge +performance, at once protested by jumps and lunges, but he soon +quieted down and we started on again. Bettie danced a little with +Faye, but that was all. She evidently remembered her lost battle with +him at Camp Baker. + +It was almost dark when we reached the saw-mill, and as soon as it +became known that I was with the "lieutenant" every man sprang up from +some place underneath the snow to look at me, and two or three ran +over to assist Bryant with our things. It was awfully nice to know +that I was a person of importance, even if it was out in a camp in the +mountains where probably a woman had never been before. The little log +cabin built for officers had only the one long room, with large, +comfortable bunk, two tables, chairs, a "settle" of pine boards, and +near one end of the room was a box stove large enough to heat two +rooms of that size. By the time my stiffened body could get inside, +the stove had been filled to the top with pine wood that roared and +crackled in a most cheerful and inviting manner. + +But the snow out there! I do not consider it advisable to tell the +exact truth, so I will simply say that it was higher than the cabin, +but that for some reason it had left an open space of about three feet +all around the logs, and that gave us air and light through windows +which had been thoughtfully placed unusually high. The long stable, +built against a bank, where the horses and mules were kept, was +entirely buried underneath the snow, and you would never have dreamed +that there was anything whatever there unless you had seen the path +that had been shoveled down to the door. The cabin the men lived in, I +did not see at all. We were in a ravine where the pine forest was +magnificent, but one could see that the trees were shortened many feet +by the great depth of snow. + +Our meals were brought to us by Bryant from the soldiers' mess, and as +the cook was only a pick-up, they were often a mess indeed, but every +effort was made to have them nice. The day after we got there the cook +evidently made up his mind that some recognition should be shown of +the honor of my presence in the woods, so he made a big fat pie for my +dinner. It was really fat, for the crust must have been mostly of +lard, and the poor man had taken much pains with the decorations of +twisted rings and little balls that were on the top. It really looked +very nice as Bryant set it down on the table in front of me, with an +air that the most dignified of butlers might have envied, and said, +"Compliments of the cook, ma'am!" Of course I was, and am still, +delighted with the attention from the cook, but for some reason I was +suspicious of that pie, it was so very high up, so I continued to talk +about it admiringly until after Bryant had gone from the cabin, and +then I tried to cut it! The filling--and there was an abundance--was +composed entirely of big, hard raisins that still had their seeds in. +The knife could not cut them, so they rolled over on the table and on +the floor, much like marbles. I scooped out a good-sized piece as well +as I could, gathered up the runaway raisins, and then--put it in the +stove. + +And this I did at every dinner while I was there, almost trembling +each time for fear Bryant would come in and discover how the pie was +being disposed of. It lasted long, for I could not cut off a piece for +Faye, as Bryant had given us to understand in the beginning that the +chef d'oeuvre was for me only. + +Nothing pleases me more than to have the enlisted men pay me some +little attention, and when the day after the pie a beautiful little +gray squirrel was brought to me in a nice airy box, I was quite +overcome. He is very much like Billie in size and color, which seems +remarkable, since Billie was from the far South and this little fellow +from the far North. I wanted to take him out of the box at once, but +the soldier said he would bite, and having great respect for the teeth +of a squirrel, I let him stay in his prison while we were out there. + +The first time I let him out after we got home he was frantic, and +jumped on the mantel, tables, and chairs, scattering things right and +left. Finally he started to run up a lace window curtain back of the +sewing machine. On top of the machine was a plate of warm cookies that +Charlie had just brought to me, and getting a sniff of those the +squirrel stopped instantly, hesitated just a second, and then over he +jumped, took a cookie with his paws and afterwards held it with his +teeth until he had settled himself comfortably, when he again took it +in his paws and proceeded to eat with the greatest relish. After he +had eaten all he very well could, he hid the rest back of the curtain +in quite an at-home way. There was nothing at all wonderful in all +this, except that the squirrel was just from the piney woods where +warm sugar cakes are unknown, so how did he know they were good to +eat? + +I was at the saw-mill four days, and then we all came in together and +on bob sleds. There were four mules for each sleigh, so not much +attention was paid to the great depth of snow. Both horses knew when +we got to the bridge and gave Bryant trouble. Every bit of the trail +out had been obliterated by drifting snow, and I still wonder how +these animals recognized the precise spot when the snow was level in +every place. + +We found the house in excellent order, and consider our new Chinaman a +treasure. A few days before Faye went to the mill I made some Boston +brown bread. I always make that myself, as I fancy I can make it very +good, but for some reason I was late in getting it on to steam that +day, so when I went to the kitchen to put it in the oven I found a +much-abused Chinaman. When he saw what I was about to do he became +very angry and his eyes looked green. He said, "You no put him in +l'oven." I said, "Yes, Charlie, I have to for one hour." He said, "You +no care workman, you sploil my dee-nee, you get some other boy." + +Now Charlie was an excellent servant and I did not care to lose him, +but to take that bread out was not to be considered. I would no longer +have been mistress of my own house, so I told him quietly, "Very +well," and closed the oven door with great deliberation. The dinner +was a little better than usual, and I wondered all the time what the +outcome would be. I knew that he was simply piqued because I had not +let him make the bread. After his work was all done he came in and +said, with a smile that was almost a grin, "I go now--I send 'nother +boy," and go he did. But the "other boy" came in time to give us a +delicious breakfast, and everything went on just the same as when old +Charlie was here. He is in Bozeman and comes to see us often. + +This Charlie takes good care of my chickens that are my pride and +delight. There are twenty, and every one is snow white; some have +heavy round topknots. I found them at different ranches. It is so cold +here that chicken roosts have to be covered with strips of blanket and +made flat and broad, so the feathers will cover the chickens' feet, +otherwise they will be frozen. It is a treat to have fresh eggs, and +without having to pay a dollar and a half per dozen for them. That is +the price we have paid for eggs almost ever since we came to the +Territory. + +FORT ELLIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +June, 1880. + +EVERYTHING is packed and on the wagons--that is, all but the camp +outfit which we will use on the trip over--and in the morning we will +start on our way back to Fort Shaw. With the furniture that belongs to +the quarters and the camp things, we were so comfortable in our own +house we decided that there was no necessity to go to Mrs. Adams's, +except for dinner and breakfast, although both General and Mrs. Adams +have been most hospitable and kind. + +The way these two moves have come about seems very funny to me. Faye +was ordered over here to command C Company when it was left without an +officer, because he was senior second lieutenant in the regiment and +entitled to it. The captain of this company has been East on +recruiting service, and has just been relieved by Colonel Knight, +captain of Faye's company at Shaw; as that company is now without an +officer, the senior second lieutenant has to return and command his +own company. This recognition of a little rank has been expensive to +us, and disagreeable too. The lieutenants are constantly being moved +about, often details that apparently do not amount to much but which +take much of their small salary. + +The Chinaman is going with us, for which I am most thankful, and at +his request we have decided to take the white chickens. Open boxes +have been made specially for them that fit on the rear ends of the +wagons, and we think they will be very comfortable--but we will +certainly look like emigrants when on the road. The two squirrels will +go also. The men of the company have sent me three squirrels during +the winter. The dearest one of all had been injured and lived only a +few days. The flying squirrel is the least interesting and seems +stupid. It will lie around and sleep during the entire day, but at +dark will manage to get on some high perch and flop down on your +shoulder or head when you least expect it and least desire it, too. +The little uncanny thing cannot fly, really, but the webs enable it to +take tremendous leaps. I expect that it looks absurd for us to be +taking across the country a small menagerie, but the squirrels were +presents, and of course had to go, and the chickens are beautiful, and +give us quantities of eggs. Besides, if we had left the chickens, +Charlie might not have gone, for he feeds them and watches over them +as if they were his very own, and looks very cross if the striker +gives them even a little corn. + +Night before last an unusually pleasant dancing party was given by +Captain McAndrews, when Faye and I were guests of honor. It was such a +surprise to us, and so kind in Captain McAndrews to give it, for he is +a bachelor. Supper was served in his own quarters, but dancing was in +the vacant set adjoining. The rooms were beautifully decorated with +flags, and the fragrant cedar and spruce. Mrs. Adams, wife of the +commanding officer, superintended all of the arrangements and also +assisted in receiving. The supper was simply delicious--as all army +suppers are--and I fancy that she and other ladies of the garrison +were responsible for the perfect salads and cakes. + +The orchestra was from Bozeman, so the music was very good. Quite a +party of young people also, many of them friends of ours, came up from +Bozeman, which not only swelled the number of guests, but gave life to +the dance, for in a small garrison like this the number of partners is +limited. The country about here is beautiful now; the snow is melting +on the mountains, and there is such a lovely green every place, I +almost wish that we might have remained until fall, for along the +valleys and through the canons there are grand trails for horseback +riding, while Fort Shaw has nothing of the kind. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +July, 1880. + +WE are with the commanding officer and his wife for a few days while +our house is being settled. Every room has just been painted and +tinted and looks so clean and bright. The Chinaman, squirrels, and +chickens are there now, and are already very much at home, and Charlie +is delighted that the chickens are so much admired. + +The first part of the trip over was simply awful! The morning was +beautiful when we left Ellis--warm and sunny--and everybody came to +see us oft. We started in fine spirits, and all went well for ten or +twelve miles, when we got to the head waters of the Missouri, where +the three small rivers, Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison join and make +the one big river. The drive through the forest right there is usually +delightful, and although we knew that the water was high in the +Gallatin by Fort Ellis, we were wholly unprepared for the scene that +confronted us when we reached the valley. Not one inch of ground could +be seen--nothing but the trees surrounded; by yellow, muddy water that +showed quite a current. + +The regular stage road has been made higher than the ground because of +these July freshets, when the snow is melting on the mountains, but it +was impossible to keep on it, as its many turns could not be seen, and +it would not have helped much either, as the water was deep. The +ambulance was in the lead, of course, so we were in all the excitement +of exploring unseen ground. The driver would urge the mules, and if +the leaders did not go down, very good--we would go on, perhaps a few +yards. If they did go down enough to show that it was dangerous that +way, he would turn them in another direction and try there. Sometimes +it was necessary almost to turn around in order to keep upon the +higher ground. In this way mules and drivers worked until four o'clock +in the afternoon, the dirty water often coming up over the floor of +the ambulance, and many times it looked as if we could not go on one +step farther without being upset in the mud and water. + +But at four we reached an island, where there was a small house and a +stable for the stage relay horses, and not far beyond was another +island where Faye decided to camp for the night. It was the only thing +he could have done. He insisted upon my staying at the house, but I +finally convinced him that the proper place for me was in camp, and I +went on with him. The island was very small, and the highest point +above water could not have been over two feet. Of course everything +had to be upon it--horses, mules, wagons, drivers, Faye and I, and the +two small squirrels, and the chickens also. In addition to our own +traveling menagerie there were native inhabitants of that +island--millions and millions of mosquitoes, each one with a sharp +appetite and sharp sting. We thought that we had learned all about +vicious mosquitoes while in the South, but the Southern mosquitoes are +slow and caressing in comparison to those Montana things. + +It was very warm, and the Chinaman felt sorry for the chickens shut up +in the boxes, where fierce quarrels seemed to be going on all the +time. So after he had fed them we talked it over, and decided to let +them out, as they could not possibly get away from us across the big +body of water. There were twenty large chickens in one big box, and +twenty-seven small ones that had been brought in a long box by +themselves. Well, Charlie and one of the men got the boxes down and +opened them. At once the four or five mother hens clucked and +scratched and kept on clucking until the little chicks were let out, +when every one of them ran to its own mother, and each hen strutted +off with her own brood. That is the absolute truth, but is not all. +When night came the chickens went back to their boxes to roost--all +but the small ones. Those were left outside with their mothers, and +just before daylight Charlie raised a great commotion when he put them +up for the day's trip. + +When we were about ready to start in the morning, a man came over from +the house and told Faye that he would pilot us through the rest of the +water, that it was very dangerous in places, where the road had been +built up, and if a narrow route was not carefully followed, a team +would go down a bank of four or five feet. He had with him just the +skeleton of a wagon--the four wheels with two or three long boards on +top, drawn by two horses. So we went down in the dirty water again, +that seemed to get deeper and deeper as we splashed on. + +Now and then I could catch a glimpse of our pilot standing up on the +boards very much like a circus rider, for the wagon wheels were +twisting around over the roots of trees and stones, in a way that +required careful balancing on his part. We got along very well until +about noon, when a soldier came splashing up on a mule and told Faye +that one of the wagons had turned over! That was dreadful news and +made me most anxious about the trunks and chests, and the poor +chickens, too, all of which might be down under the water. + +They got the ambulance under some trees, unfastened the mules and led +them away, leaving me alone, without even the driver. The soldier had +thoughtfully led up Pete for Faye to ride back, and the mules were +needed to assist in pulling the wagon up. Fortunately the wagon was +caught by a tree and did not go entirely over, and it so happened, +too, that it was the one loaded more with furniture than anything +else, so not much damage was done. + +Our pilot had left us some time before, to hurry on and get any +passengers that might come in the stage that runs daily between Helena +and Bozeman. As soon as I began to look around a little after I was +left alone in the ambulance, I discovered that not so very far ahead +was an opening in the trees and bushes, and that a bit of beautiful +dry land could be seen. I was looking at it with longing eyes when +suddenly something came down the bank and on into the water, and not +being particularly brave, I thought of the unprotected position I was +in. But the terrible monster turned out to be our pilot, and as he +came nearer, I saw that he had something on the wagon--whether men or +women or mere bags of stuff I could not tell. + +But in time he got near enough for me to see that two men were with +him--most miserable, scared tourists--both standing up on the +seesawing boards, the first with arms around the pilot's neck, and the +second with his arms around him. They were dressed very much alike, +each one having on his head an immaculate white straw hat, and over +his coat a long--very long--linen duster, and they both had on gloves! +Their trousers were pulled up as high as they could get them, giving a +fine display of white hose and low shoes. The last one was having +additional woe, for one leg of his trousers was slipping down, and of +course it was impossible for him to pull it up and keep his balance. +Every turn of the wheels the thick yellow water was being spattered on +them, and I can imagine the condition they were in by the time they +reached the little inn on the island. The pilot thought they were +funny, too, for when he passed he grinned and jerked his head back to +call my attention to them. He called to know what had happened to me, +and I told him that I was a derelict, and he would ascertain the cause +farther on. + +After a while--it seemed hours to me--Faye and the wagons came up, and +in time we got out of the awful mess and on dry land. It was the +Fourth of July, and we all wished for a gun or something that would +make a loud noise wherewith we could celebrate--not so much the day as +our rejoicing at getting out of the wilderness. The men were in a +deplorable condition, wet and tired, for no one had been able to sleep +the night before because of the vicious mosquitoes and the stamping of +the poor animals. So, when Faye saw one of the drivers go to a spring +for water, and was told that it was a large, fine spring, he decided +to camp right there and rest before going farther. + +But rest we could not, for the mosquitoes were there also, and almost +as bad as they had been on the island, and the tents inside were +covered with them as soon as they were pitched. If there is a person +who thinks that a mosquito has no brain, and is incapable of looking +ahead, that person will soon learn his mistake if ever he comes to the +Missouri River, Montana! The heat was fierce, too, and made it +impossible for us to remain in the tents, so we were obliged, after +all, to sit out under the trees until the air had cooled at night +sufficiently to chill the mosquitoes. + +The chickens were let out at every camp, and each time, without fail, +they flew up to their boxes on the wagons. Charlie would put in little +temporary roosts, that made them more comfortable, and before daylight +every morning he would gather up the little ones and the mothers and +put them in the crates for the day. He is willing and faithful, but +has queer ideas about some things. Just as I was getting in the +ambulance the second morning on the trip, I heard a crunching sound +and then another, and looking back, I saw the Chinaman on top of the +mess chest with head bent over and elbows sticking out, jumping up and +down with all his strength. + +I ran over and told him not to do so, for I saw at once what was the +matter. But he said, "He velly blig--he no go downee--me flixee him," +and up and down he went again, harder than ever. After a lengthy +argument he got down, and I showed him once more how to put the things +in so the top would shut tight. There were a good many pieces of +broken china, and these Charlie pitched over in the water with a grin +that plainly said, "You see--me flixee you!" Of course the soldiers +saw it all and laughed heartily, which made Charlie very angry, and +gave him a fine opportunity to express himself in Chinese. The rest of +the trip was pleasant, and some of the camps were delightful, but I am +afraid that I no longer possess beautiful white chickens--my Chinaman +seems to be the owner of all, big and small. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +August, 1880. + +THE company has been ordered to "proceed without delay" to Fort +Maginnis, a post that is just being established, and to assist another +company in building temporary log quarters. The other company will go +from Fort Missoula, and has to remain at the new post during the +winter, but Faye's company will return here in November. We were all +ready to go to the Yellowstone Park next week with General and Mrs. +Bourke, but this order from Department Headquarters upsets everything. +The company was designated there, and go it must, although Faye has +been at Fort Shaw only six weeks. He has command, of course, as +Colonel Knight is East on recruiting service, and the first lieutenant +is abroad. + +General and Mrs. Bourke could not understand at first why I would not +go with them to the park, just the same, but I understood perfectly, +and said at once that I would go to Maginnis with Faye. For, to go in +one direction where there is only a weekly mail, and Faye to go in +another direction where there is no mail at all, and through an Indian +country, was not to be considered one second. I was half afraid that +the commanding officer might forbid my going with Faye, as he could +have done, but he did not, and when he saw that I could not be +persuaded to change my mind, an ambulance was ordered to go with the +command, so I can have a shelter when it storms, for I shall ride +Bettie on the trip. + +The distance over is one hundred and fifty miles right across +mountains and valleys, and there will be only a faint trail to guide +us, and I am anticipating great delight in such a long horseback ride +through a wild country. We will have everything for our comfort, too. +Faye will be in command, and that means much, and a young contract +surgeon, who has been recently appointed, will go with us, and our +Chinese cook will go also. I have always wanted to take a trip of this +kind, and know that it will be like one long picnic, only much nicer. +I never cared for real picnics--they always have so much headache +with them. We have very little to do for the march as our camp outfit +is in unusually fine condition. After Charlie's "flixee" so much +mess-chest china, Faye had made to order a complete set for four +people of white agate ware with blue bands. We have two sets of +plates, vegetable dishes, cups and saucers, egg cups, soup plates, and +a number of small pieces. The plates and dishes, also platters, can be +folded together, and consequently require very little room, and it is +a great comfort to know that these things are unbreakable, and that we +will not be left without plates for the table when we get in the +wilds, and the ware being white looks very nice, not in the least like +tin. It came yesterday, just in time. + +The two squirrels I carried to the woods and turned loose. I could not +take them, and I would not leave them to be neglected perhaps. The +"Tiger" was still a tiger, and as wild and fierce as when he came from +the saw-mill, and was undoubtedly an old squirrel not to be taught new +tricks. The flying thing was wholly lacking in sense. I scattered +pounds of nuts all about and hope that the two little animals will not +suffer. The Chinaman insisted upon our taking those chickens! He goes +out every now and then and gives them big pans of food and talks to +them in Chinese with a voice and expression that makes one almost want +to weep, because the chickens have to be left behind. + +We are to start on the eighteenth, and on the nineteenth we had +expected to give a dinner--a very nice one, too. I am awfully sorry +that we could not have given it before going away, for there are so +many things to do here during the winter. The doctor has had no +experience whatever in camp life, and we are wondering how he will +like it. He looks like a man who would much prefer a nice little +rocking-chair in a nice little room. + +CAMP NEAR JUNOT'S, IN THE JUDITH BASIN, +August, 1880. + +THIS will be left at a little trading store as we pass to-morrow +morning, with the hope that it will soon be taken on to Benton and +posted. + +So far, the trip has been delightful, and every bit as nice as I had +anticipated. The day we left the post was more than hot--it was simply +scorching; and my whole face on the right side, ear and all, was +blistered before we got to the ferry. Just now I am going through a +process of peeling which is not beautifying, and is most painful. + +Before we had come two miles it was discovered that a "washer" was +lacking on one of the wheels of a wagon, and a man was sent back on a +mule to get one. This caused a delay and made Faye cross, for it +really was inexcusable in the wagon master to send a wagon out on a +trip like this in that condition. The doctor did not start with the +command, but rode up while we were waiting for the man with the +washer. The soldiers were lounging on the ground near the wagons, +talking and laughing; but when they saw the doctor coming, there was +perfect silence over there, and I watched and listened, curious to see +what effect the funny sight would have upon them. First one sat up, +then another, and some stood up, then some one of them giggled, and +that was quite enough to start everyone of them to laughing. They were +too far away for the laughing and snickering to be disrespectful, or +even to be noticed much, but I knew why they laughed, for I laughed +too. + +The doctor did not present a military appearance. He is the very +smallest man I ever saw, and he was on a government horse that is +known by its great height--sixteen hands and two inches, I +believe--and the little man's stirrups were about half way down the +horse's sides, and his knees almost on the horse's back. All three of +us are wearing officers' white cork helmets, but the doctor's is not a +success, being ever so much too large for his small head, consequently +it had tilted back and found a resting place on his shoulders, +covering his ears and the upper part of his already hot face. For a +whip he carried a little switch not much longer than his gauntlets, +and which would have puzzled the big horse, if struck by it. With it +all the little man could not ride, and as his government saddle was +evidently intended for a big person, he seemed uncertain as to which +was the proper place to sit--the pommel, the middle, or the curved +back. All during that first day's march the soldiers watched him. I +knew this, although we were at the head of the column--for every time +he would start his horse up a little I could hear smothered laughter +back of us. + +It was late when we finally got across the Missouri on the funny +ferryboat, so we camped for the night on this side near the ferryman's +house. It was the doctor's first experience in camp, and of course he +did not know how to make himself comfortable. He suffered from the +heat, and became still warmer by rushing up and down fanning himself +and fighting mosquitoes. Then after dinner he had his horse saddled, a +soldier helped him to mount, and he rode back and forth bobbing all +sorts of ways, until Faye could stand it no longer and told him to +show some mercy to the beast that had carried him all day, and would +have to do the same for days to come. + +Most of the camps have been in beautiful places--always by some clear +stream where often there was good trout fishing. In one or two of +these we found grayling, a very gamey fish, that many epicures +consider more delicate than the trout. We have a fine way of keeping +fish for the following day. As soon as possible after they have been +caught we pack them in long, wet grass and put them in a cool spot, +and in this way they will keep remarkably fresh. + +We have had an abundance of game, too--all kinds of grouse and prairie +chicken, and the men killed one antelope. The Chinaman thought that +Faye shot quite too many birds, and began to look cross when they were +brought in, which annoyed me exceedingly, and I was determined to stop +it. So one evening, after Faye had taken some young chicken to the +cook tent, I said to the doctor, "Come with me," and going over to the +tent I picked up the birds and went to some trees near by, and handing +the doctor one, asked him to help me pick them, at the same time +commencing to pull the feathers out of one myself. The poor doctor +looked as though he was wishing he had made a specialty of dementia, +and stood like a goose, looking at the chicken. Charlie soon became +very restless--went inside the tent, and then came out, humming all +the time. Finally he gave in, and coming over to us, fairly snatched +the birds from me and said, "Me flixee him," and carried the whole +bunch back of his tent where we could not see him. Since that evening +Charlie has been the most delighted one in camp when Faye has brought +birds in. + +All the way we have had only a faint trail to follow, and often even +that could not be seen after we had crossed a stream. At such places +Faye, the doctor, and I would spread out and search for it. As Bettie +and I were always put in the middle, we were usually the finders. One +day we came up a hill that was so steep that twelve mules had to be +hitched to each wagon in order to get it up. Another day we went down +a hill where the trail was so sidling, that the men had to fasten big +ropes to the upper side of each wagon to hold it right side up as it +was drawn down. Another day we made only a few miles because of the +deep-cut banks of a narrow little stream that wound around and across +a valley, and which we had to cross eight times. At every crossing the +banks had to be sloped off and the bed built up before the wagons +could be drawn over. Watching all this has been most entertaining and +the whole trip is making a man of the doctor. + +To-night we are in camp in the Judith Basin and by the Judith River--a +beautiful stream, and by far the largest we have seen on the march. +And just across the river from us is a stockade, very high and very +large, with heavy board gate that was closed as we came past. We can +see the roof of the cabin inside, and a stovepipe sticking up through +it. Faye says that he has just heard that the place is a nest of horse +thieves of the boldest and most daring type, and that one of them is +coming to see him this evening! He was told all this by the Frenchman, +Junot, who has a little trading store a mile or so from here. + +Faye and the doctor rode over there as soon as the tents had been +pitched, to ascertain if the company from Missoula had passed. Our +trail and the one from the Bitter Root valley fork there. The company +passed several days ago, so we will go on in the morning; otherwise we +would have been obliged to wait for it. + +I had to stay here all alone as Faye would not consent to my going +with him. He gave me one of his big pistols, and I had my own small +one, and these I put on a table in the tent, after they had gone, and +then fastened the tent flaps tight and sat down to await events. But +the tent soon became stifling, and it occurred to me that it was +foolish to shut myself up so I could not see whatever might come until +it was right upon me, so putting my pistol in my pocket and hiding the +other, I opened the tent and went out. The first thing I saw was a +fishing pole with line and fly, and that I took, and the next was the +first sergeant watching me. I knew then that Faye had told him to take +care of me. + +I went over to tell him that I was going for a fish, and then on down +to the beautiful river, whose waters are green and very much the color +of the Niagara River. I cast the fly over on the water, and instantly +a large fish came up, took the fly, and went down again so easily and +gracefully that he scarcely made a ripple on the water until he felt +the pull of the line. That was when I forgot everything connected with +camp--Faye, horse thieves, and Indians! I had no reel, of course, and +getting the big fish out of the water was a problem, for I was +standing on a rather high and steep bank. It jumped and jerked in a +way that made me afraid I might be pulled down instead of my pulling +the fish up, so I began to draw him in, and then up, hand over hand, +not daring to breathe while he was suspended in the air. It called for +every bit of my strength, as the shiny thing was so heavy. But I got +him; and his length was just twice the width of my handkerchief--a +splendid salmon trout. I laid it back of a rock in the shade, and went +on down the stream, casting my one fly, and very soon I caught another +trout of precisely the same size as the first, and which I landed the +same way, too. I put it by the rock with the other. + +I kept on down the river, whipping it with my lucky fly every few +steps, but I caught no more fish, neither did I get a rise, but I did +not mind that, for I had the two beauties, and I was having a grand +time too. I had caught both large fish without assistance and with a +common willow pole. All that serenity was upset, however, when I heard +my name called with such a roar that I came near jumping over the bank +to save myself from whatever was after me, but the "What are you doing +so far from camp?" came just in time to stop me. + +It was Faye, of course, and he was cross because I had gone so far +alone, and had, in a way, disregarded his instructions--had done as I +pleased after he had left me alone. I wanted to go to Junot's, +therefore was not one bit sorry that I had frightened him, and said +not a word to his sputtering about the danger from Indians and horse +thieves as we started back to camp. After we had gone a little +distance up I said, "I left something by that rock." I tried to lift +the big fish to show him, but they were too heavy, and I had to hold +up one at a time as I said, "This is Mr. Indian and this Mr. Horse +Thief!" Faye was almost speechless over my having caught two such +large trout, and started to camp with them at such a pace I had to +run, almost, to keep up. He thought of something of great importance +to say to the first sergeant, simply because he wanted to show them to +the company. Some beautiful trout have been brought in by the enlisted +men who went up the river, and I am so glad, for now they will have +such a nice supper. + +The horse thieves undoubtedly knew this country well, when they +selected this valley for their hiding place. They have an abundance of +delicious fish the year round at their very door, and there is any +amount of game near, both furred and feathered, and splendid +vegetables they can certainly raise, for they have just sent Faye a +large grain sack overflowing with tender, sweet corn, new beets, +turnips, cabbage, and potatoes. These will be a grand treat to us, as +our own vegetables gave out several days ago. But just think of +accepting these things from a band of desperadoes and horse thieves! +Their garden must be inside the immense stockade, for there is nothing +of the kind to be seen outside. They probably keep themselves in +readiness for a long siege by sheriff and posse that may come down +upon them at any time without warning. And all the time they know that +if ever caught stealing horses, their trial will last just as long as +it will take to drag them to a tree that has a good strong branch. + +Charlie says that he is a mason and reads every evening in a book that +is of his own printing. It is really wonderful. Every evening after +dinner he sits out in front of his tent with a large silk handkerchief +over his head, and perhaps another with which to fight the +ever-present mosquitoes, and reads until dark. He is the only literary +person in the command and we are quite proud of him. He is a great +comfort to Faye and me, for his cooking is delicious. The doctor has a +camp appetite now and is not as finicky as when we started on the +trip. + +FORT MAGINNIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +September, 1880. + +IT is almost one week since we got here, but I have not written before +as no mail has been sent out. I hope that the letter left with Junot +has been received, also the two or three notes that were given to +horsemen we met on their way to Fort Benton. + +At first, Faye did not tell me all that he knew about those horse +thieves in the Judith Basin, but it finally came out that the trader, +Junot, had told him a most blood-curdling tale of events to come. He +had declared most positively that the desperadoes were planning to +attack the command, the very next morning while crossing the Judith +Mountains, with a hope, of course, of getting the animals. He also +told Faye that one of them would be in camp that evening to ask +permission to go with him to Maginnis. Faye said the whole story was +absurd, particularly the attack, as those horse thieves would never +dare attack government troops. Besides, he had over fifty good men +with him, and probably there were only ten or twelve horse thieves. So +not much attention was paid to what the old Frenchman had said. + +But after dinner, when we were sitting outside and Faye and the doctor +were smoking, a man came around the corner of the tent with long, +swinging strides, and was in our midst before we had dreamed of anyone +being near. He spoke to Faye courteously, and declining a chair, +dropped down full length on the ground, with elbows in the grass and +chin on the palms of his hands. His feet were near the tent and his +face out, which placed him in a fine position to observe everything in +the camp without anyone seeing that he was doing so, especially as his +eyes were screened by a soft, broad-brimmed hat. It was impossible to +see their color, of course. + +He was young--not over twenty-eight or thirty--and handsome, with a +face that was almost girlish in its fairness. His hair was neatly cut, +and so was his light mustache, and his smooth face showed that he had +recently shaved. He was tall and lithe, and from his chin to his toes +was dressed in fine buckskin--shirt, trousers, leggings, and +moccasins--and around his neck was tied a blue cotton handkerchief, +new and clean. That the man could be a horse thief, an outlaw, seemed +most incredible. + +He talked very well, too, of the country and the game, and we were +enjoying the change in our usual after-dinner camp conversation, when +suddenly up he jumped, and turning around looked straight at Faye, and +then like a bomb came the request to be allowed to go with him to Fort +Maginnis! He raised the brim of his hat, and there seemed to be a look +of defiance in his steel-blue eyes. But Faye had been expecting this, +and knowing that he was more than a match for the villain, he got up +from his camp stool leisurely, and with great composure told the man: +"Certainly, I will be very glad to have some one along who knows the +trail so well." To be told that he knew the trail must have been +disconcerting to the man, but not one word did he say in reference to +it. + +After he had gone, Faye went over to the company, where he remained +some time, and I learned later that he had been giving the first +sergeant careful instructions for the next day. I could not sleep that +night because of horrible dreams--dreams of long, yellow snakes with +fiery eyes crawling through green grass. I have thought so many times +since of how perfectly maddening it must have been to those horse +thieves to have twenty-two nice fat mules and three horses brought +almost within the shadow of their very own stockade, and yet have it +so impossible to gather them in! + +At the appointed time the buckskin-man appeared the following morning +on a beautiful chestnut horse with fancy bridle and Mexican saddle, +and with him came a friend, his "pal" he told Faye, who was much older +and was a sullen, villainous-looking man. Both were armed with rifles +and pistols, but there was nothing remarkable in that; in this country +it is a necessity. We started off very much as usual, except that Faye +kept rather close to the "pal," which left Bettie and me alone most of +the time, just a little at one side. I noticed that directly back of +the horse thieves walked a soldier, armed with rifle and pistol, and +Faye told me that night that he was one of the best sharpshooters in +the Army, and that he was back of those men with orders to shoot them +down like dogs if they made one treacherous move. The buckskin man was +one of the most graceful riders I ever saw, and evidently loved his +fine mount, as I saw him stroke his neck several times--and the man +himself was certainly handsome. + +Faye had told me that I must not question anything he might tell me to +do, so after we had crossed the valley and gone up the mountains a +little distance he called to me in a voice unnecessarily loud, that I +must be tired riding so far, and had better get in the ambulance for a +while. I immediately dismounted, and giving the bridle rein to a +soldier, I waited for the ambulance to come up. As I got in, I felt +that perhaps I was doing the first act in an awful tragedy. The +horsemen and wagons had stopped during the minute or two I was getting +in, but I saw soldiers moving about, and just as soon as I was seated +I looked out to see what was going on. + +A splendid old sergeant was going to the front with four soldiers, +whom I knew were men to be trusted, each one with rifle, bayonet, and +belt full of cartridges, and then I saw that some of the plans for +that day's trip had not been told to me. The men were placed in front +of everyone, four abreast, and Faye at once told the thieves that +under no conditions must one ever get in front of the advance guard. +How they must have hated it all--four drilled soldiers in front of +them and a sharpshooter back of them, and all the time treated by Faye +as honored guests! + +There were four men at the rear of the wagons, and the posting of +these rear and advance guards, and placing men on either side of the +wagons, had been done without one order from Faye, so my dismounting +must have been the signal for the sergeant to carry out the orders +Faye had given him the night before. Not by one turn of the head did +those outlaws show that they noticed those changes. + +In that way we crossed the range. We met a dozen or more men of the +very roughest type, each one heavily armed. They were in parties of +two and three, and Faye thinks that a signal was passed between one of +them and the "pal." But there was no attack as had been predicted! +What might have taken place, however, if Faye had not been prepared, +no one can tell. Certainly part of Junot's story had been carried +out--the horse thief came to the tent and came with us to Maginnis, +and it was not because he wanted the protection of the troops. Faye +insists that an attack was never thought of, but as he was responsible +for government property, including the animals, he had to make +preparation to protect them. Of course those men wanted only the +animals. We passed many places on the divide that were ideal for an +ambush--bluffs, huge boulders, and precipices--everything perfect for +a successful hold up. + +The men came on to the post with us, and were in camp two nights with +the soldiers. The second day from the Judith, we stopped for luncheon +near a small stream where there were a great many choke-cherry bushes, +and "Buckskin Joe"*--that was his name--brought large bunches of the +cherries to me. His manner showed refinement, and I saw that his +wonderful eyes could be tender as well as steely. Perhaps he had +sisters at the old home, and perhaps, too, I was the first woman he +had seen in months to remind him of them. I shall always believe that +he is from good people some place East, that his "dare-devil" nature +got him into some kind of trouble there, and that he came to this wild +country to hide from Justice. The very morning after we got here, not +long after our breakfast, he appeared at our tent with a fine young +deer slung across the back of his horse, which he presented to us. He +had just killed it. It was most acceptable, as there was no fresh meat +in camp. He and his "pal" stayed around that day and night, and then +quietly disappeared. Not one of the soldiers, even, saw them go. + +*About six years after this occurrence, there was a graphic account in +the Western papers of the horrible death of "Buckskin Joe," who was +known as one of the most daring and slippery horse thieves in the +Territory. After evading arrest many times, he was finally hunted down +by a sheriff's posse, when his fiendish fighting excited the +admiration of those who were killing him. A bullet broke one of his +legs, and he went down, but he kept on shooting--and so fast that no +one dared approach him. And when the forearm of his pistol hand was +shattered, he grasped the pistol with the other hand and continued to +shoot, even when he could not sit up, but had to hold himself up by +the elbow of his broken arm. He was finally killed, fairly riddled +with bullets. He knew, of course, all the time what his fate would be +if taken alive, and he chose the cold lead instead of the end of a +rope. + + +It was pleasant to meet our old friends here. Colonel Palmer is in +command, and I was particularly glad to see them. After Mrs. Palmer +had embraced me she held me off a little and said: "What have you been +doing to your face? my, but you are ugly!" The skin on the blistered +side has peeled off in little strips, leaving the new skin very white +in between the parched brown of the old, so I expect I do resemble a +zebra or an Indian with his war paint on. The post, which is only a +camp as yet, is located at the upper end of a beautiful valley, and +back of us is a canon and mountains are on both sides. Far down the +valley is a large Indian village, and we can distinctly see the +tepees, and often hear the "tom-toms" when the Indians dance. There +are other Indian camps near, and it is not safe to go far from the +tents without an escort. It seems to be a wonderful country for +game--deer, grouse, and prairie chicken. Twice we have seen deer come +down from the mountains and drink from the stream just below the post. +Bettie and I have scared up chicken every time we have taken little +runs around the camp, and Faye has shot large bags of them. They are +not as great a treat to us as to our friends, for we had so many on +the way over. + +We have two wall tents, one for sitting room and one for bedroom, and +in front a "fly" has been stretched. Our folding camp furniture makes +the tents very comfortable. Back of these is the mess, or dining tent, +and back of that is the cook tent. Charlie has a small range now, +which keeps him squeaking or half singing all the time. One morning, +before we got this stove from the quartermaster, breakfast was late, +very late. The wind was blowing a gale, and after waiting and waiting, +we concluded that Charlie must be having trouble with the little +sheet-iron camp stove. So Faye went back to see what was the matter. +He returned laughing, and said he had found a most unhappy Chinaman; +that Charlie was holding the stove down with a piece of wood with one +hand, and with the other was trying to keep the breakfast on the +stove. + +You know the stovepipe goes up through a piece of tin fastened in the +roof of the tent, which is slanting, and when the canvas catches the +wind and flops up and down and every other way, the stovepipe +naturally has to go with it. The wind was just right that morning to +flop everything--canvas, pipe, stove, and breakfast, too--particularly +the delicate Saratoga chips Charlie had prepared for us, and which, +Faye said, were being blown about like yellow rose leaves. The poor +little heathen was distracted, but when he saw Faye he instantly +became a general and said at once, "You hole-ee him--me takee +bleckfus." So Faye having a desire for breakfast, held down the stove +while Charlie got things together. The Saratoga chips were delicate +and crisp and looked nice, too, but neither the doctor nor I asked +Faye if they were some of the "rose leaves" or just plain potatoes +from a dish! + +Charlie is splendid and most resourceful. Very near our tent is a +small stream of cold, clear water, and on one side of this he has made +a little cave of stones through which the water runs, and in this he +keeps the butter, milk, and desserts that require a cool place. He is +pottering around about something all the time. There is just one poor +cow in the whole camp, so we cannot get much milk--only one pint each +day--but we consider ourselves very fortunate in getting any at all. I +brought over fourteen dozen eggs, packed in boxes with salt. We are to +start back the first of November, so after we got here I worked out a +little problem in mathematics, and found that the eggs would last by +using only two each day. But Charlie does better than this; he will +manage to get along without eggs for a day or two, and will then +surprise us with a fine omelet or custard. But he keeps an exact +account and never exceeds his allowance. + +The doctor is still with us, and shows no inclination to join the +officers' mess that has just been started. He seems to think that he +is one of the family, and would be greatly surprised, and hurt +probably, if he should discover that we would rather be alone. + +FORT MAGINNIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +September, 1880. + +THERE is a large village of Cree Indians in the valley below, and for +several days they were a great nuisance in the garrison. One bright +morning it was discovered that a long line of them had left their +tepees and were coming in this direction. They were riding single +file, of course, and were chanting and beating "tom-toms" in a way to +make one's blood feel frozen. I was out on one of the little hills at +the time, riding Bettie, and happened to be about the first to see +them. I started for the post at once at a fast gait and told Faye and +Colonel Palmer about them, but as soon as it was seen that they were +actually coming to the post, I rode out again about as fast as I had +come in, and went to a bit of high ground where I could command a view +of the camp, and at the same time be screened by bushes and rocks. And +there I remained until those savages were well on their way back to +their own village. + +Then I went in, and was laughed at by everyone, and assured by some +that I had missed a wonderful sight. The Crees are Canadian Indians +and are here for a hunt, by permission of both governments. They and +the Sioux are very hostile to each other; therefore when four or five +Sioux swooped down upon them a few days ago and drove off twenty of +their ponies, the Crees were frantic. It was an insult not to be put +up with, so some of their best young warriors were sent after them. +They recaptured the ponies and killed one Sioux. + +Now an Indian is shrewd and wily! The Sioux had been a thief, +therefore the Crees cut off his right hand, fastened it to a long pole +with the fingers pointing up, and with much fuss and +feathers--particularly feathers--brought it to the "White Chief," to +show him that the good, brave Crees had killed one of the white man's +enemies! The leading Indian carried the pole with the hand, and almost +everyone of those that followed carried something also--pieces of +flags, or old tin pans or buckets, upon which they beat with sticks, +making horrible noises. Each Indian was chanting in a sing-song, +mournful way. They were dressed most fancifully; some with red coats, +probably discarded by the Canadian police, and Faye said that almost +everyone had on quantities of beads and feathers. + +Bringing the hand of a dead Sioux was only an Indian's way of begging +for something to eat, and this Colonel Palmer understood, so great tin +cups of hot coffee and boxes of hard-tack were served to them. Then +they danced and danced, and to me it looked as though they intended to +dance the rest of their lives right on that one spot. But when they +saw that any amount of furious dancing would not boil more coffee, +they stopped, and finally started back to their village. + +Faye tells me that as he was going to his tent from the dancing, he +noticed an Indian who seemed to be unusually well clad, his moccasins +and leggings were embroidered with beads and he was wrapped in a +bright-red blanket, head as well as body. As he passed him a voice +said in the purest English, "Lieutenant, can you give me a sear spring +for my rifle?" The only human being near was that Indian, wrapped +closely in a blanket, with only his eyes showing, precisely as one +would expect to see a hostile dressed. Faye said that it gave him the +queerest kind of a sensation, as though the voice had come from +another world. He asked the Indian where he had learned such good +English and technical knowledge of guns, and he said at the Carlisle +school. He said also that he was a Piegan and on a visit to some Cree +friends. This was one of the many proofs that we have had, that no +matter how good an education the Indian may receive, he will return to +his blanket and out-of-the-pot way of living just as soon as he +returns to his people. It would be foolish to expect anything +different. + +But those Cree Indians! The coffee had been good, very good, and they +wanted more, so the very next morning they brought to Colonel Palmer +an old dried scalp lock, scalp of "White Chief's enemy," with the same +ceremony as they had brought the hand. Then they sat around his tent +and watched him, giving little grunts now and then until in +desperation he ordered coffee for them, after which they danced. The +men gave them bits of tobacco too. Well, they kept this performance up +three or four days, each day bringing something to Colonel Palmer to +make him think they had killed a Sioux. This became very tiresome; +besides, the soldiers were being robbed of coffee, so Colonel Palmer +shut himself in his tent and refused to see them one day, and an +orderly told them to go away and make no noise. They finally left the +post looking very mournful, the men said. I told Colonel Palmer that +he might better have gone out on the hills as I did; that it was ever +so much nicer than being shut up in a tent. + +Bettie is learning to rear higher and higher, and I ride Pete now. The +last time I rode her she went up so straight that I slipped back in my +saddle, and some of the enlisted men ran out to my assistance. I let +her have her own way and came back to the tent, and jumping down, +declared to Faye that I would never ride her again. She is very cute +in her badness, and having once discovered that I didn't like a +rearing horse, she has proceeded to rear whenever she wanted her own +way. I have enjoyed riding her because she is so graceful and dainty, +but I have been told so many times that the horse was dangerous and +would throw me, that perhaps I have become a little nervous about her. + +A detail of soldiers goes up in the mountains twice every day for +poles with which to make the roofs of the log quarters. They go along +a trail on the other side of the creek, and on this side is a narrow +deer path that runs around the rocky side of a small mountain. Ever +since I have been here I have wanted to go back of the mountain by +that path. So, when I happened to be out on Pete yesterday afternoon +at the time the men started, I at once decided to take advantage of +their protection and ride around the little mountain. + +About half a mile up, there were quantities of bushes eight and ten +feet high down in the creek bed, and the narrow trail that Pete was on +was about on a level with the tops of the bushes. At my left the hill +was very steep and covered with stones. I was having a delightful +time, feeling perfectly safe with so many soldiers within call. But +suddenly things changed. Down in those bushes there was a loud +crashing and snapping, and then straight up into the air jumped a +splendid deer! His head and most of his neck were above the bushes, +and for just one instant he looked at us with big inquisitive eyes +before he went down again. + +When the deer went up Pete went up, too, on the steep hill, and as I +was on his back I had to go with him. The horse was badly frightened, +snorted, and raised his tail high, and when I tried to get him down on +the trail, the higher up he went on the rolling stones. I could almost +touch the side of the mountain with my whip in places, it was so +steep. It was a most dangerous position to be in, and just what +elevation I might have been carried to eventually I do not know, had +not the deer stopped his crashing through the bushes and bounded up on +the opposite bank, directly in front of the first team of mules, and +then on he streaked it across a plateau and far up a mountain side, +his short white tail showing distinctly as he ran. With the deer, Pete +seemed to think that the Evil One had gone, too, and consented to +return to the trail and to cross the stream over to the wagons. + +The corporal had stopped the wagons until he saw that I was safely +down, and I asked him why he had not killed the deer--we are always in +need of game--and he said that he had not seen him until he was in +front of the mules, and that it was impossible then, as the deer did +not wait for them to get the rifles out of their cases on the bottom +of the wagons. That evening at the whist table I told Colonel Palmer +about the deer and Pete, and saw at once that I had probably gotten +the poor corporal in trouble. Colonel Palmer was very angry that the +men should even think of going several miles from the post, in an +Indian country, with their rifles cased and strapped so they would +have been practically useless in case of an attack. + +Faye says that the men were not thinking of Indians, but simply trying +to keep their rifles from being marred and scratched, for if they did +get so they would be "jumped" at the first inspection. Colonel Palmer +gave most positive orders for the soldiers to hold their rifles in +their hands on their way to and from the mountains, which perhaps is +for the best. + +But I am afraid they will blame me for such orders having been issued. + +FORT MAGINNIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +October, 1880. + +IT is not surprising that politicians got a military post established +here, so this wonderful country could be opened and settled, for the +country itself is not only beautiful, but it has an amount of game +every place that is almost beyond belief. Deer are frequently seen to +come down from the mountains to the creek for water, and prairie +chicken would come to our very tents, I fancy, if left to follow their +inclinations. + +Faye is officer of the day every third day, but the other two days +there is not much for him to do, as the company is now working on the +new quarters under the supervision of the quartermaster. So we often +go off on little hunts, usually for chicken, but sometimes we go up on +one of the mountains, where there are quantities of ruffed grouse. +These are delicious, with meat as tender and white as young chicken, +and they are so pretty, too, when they spread the ruffs around their +necks and make fans of their short tail feathers. + +Yesterday we went out for birds for both tables--the officers' mess +and our own. The other officers are not hunters, and Faye is the +possessor of the only shotgun in the garrison, therefore it has been a +great pleasure to us to bring in game for all. Faye rides Bettie now +altogether, so I was on Pete yesterday. We had quite a number of +chickens, but thought we would like to get two or three more; +therefore, when we saw a small covey fly over by some bushes, and that +one bird went beyond and dropped on the other side, Faye told me to go +on a little, and watch that bird if it rose again when he shot at the +others. It is our habit usually for me to hold Faye's horse when he +dismounts to hunt, but that time he was some distance away, and had +slipped his hand through the bridle rein and was leading Bettie that +way. Both horses are perfectly broken to firearms, and do not in the +least mind a gun. I have often seen Bettie prick up her ears and watch +the smoke come from the barrel with the greatest interest. + +Everything went on very well until I got where I might expect to see +the chicken, and then I presume I gave more thought to the bird than +to the ground the horse was on. At all events, it suddenly occurred to +me that the grass about us was very tall, and looking down closely I +discovered that Pete was in an alkali bog and slowly going down. I at +once tried to get him back to the ground we had just left, but in his +frantic efforts to get his feet out of the sticky mud, he got farther +to one side and slipped down into an alkali hole of nasty black water +and slime. That I knew to be exceedingly dangerous, and I urged the +horse by voice and whip to get him out before he sank down too deep, +but with all his efforts he could do nothing, and was going down very +fast and groaning in his terror. + +Seeing that I must have assistance without delay, I called to Faye to +come at once, and sat very still until he got to us, fearing that if I +changed my position the horse might fall over. Faye came running, and +finding a tuft of grass and solid ground to stand upon, pulled Pete by +the bridle and encouraged him until the poor beast finally struggled +out, his legs and stomach covered with the black slime up to the flaps +of my saddle, so one can see what danger we were in. There was no way +of relieving the horse of my weight, as it was impossible for me to +jump and not get stuck in the mud myself. This is the only alkali hole +we have discovered here. It is screened by bunches of tall grass, and +I expect that many a time I have ridden within a few feet of it when +alone, and if my horse had happened to slip down on any one of these +times, we probably would have been sucked from the face of the earth, +and not one person to come to our assistance or to know what had +happened to us. + +When Faye heard my call of distress, he threw the bridle back on +Bettie, and slipping the shotgun through the sling on the saddle, +hurried over to me, not giving Bettie much thought. The horse has +always shown the greatest disinclination to leaving Pete, but having +her own free will that time, she did the unexpected and trotted to a +herd of mules not far off, and as she went down a little hill the +precious shotgun slipped out of the sling to the ground, and the stock +broke! The gun is perfectly useless, and the loss of it is great to us +and our friends. To be in this splendid game country without a shotgun +is deplorable; still, to have been buried in a hole of black water and +muck would have been worse. + +Later. Such an awful wind storm burst upon us while I was writing two +days ago, I was obliged to stop. The day was cold and our tents were +closed tight to keep the heat in, so we knew nothing of the storm +until it struck us, and with such fierceness it seemed as if the tents +must go down. Instantly there was commotion in camp--some of the men +tightening guy ropes, and others running after blankets and pieces of +clothing that had been out for an airing, but every man laughed and +made fun of whatever he was doing. Soldiers are always so cheerful +under such difficulties, and I dearly love to hear them laugh, and +yell, too, over in their tents. + +The snow fell thick and fast, and the wind came through the canon back +of us with the velocity of a hurricane. As night came on it seemed to +increase and the tents began to show the strain and one or two had +gone down, so the officers' families were moved into the unfinished +log quarters for the night. Colonel Palmer sent for me to go over +also, and Major Bagley came twice for me, saying our tents would +certainly fall, and that it would be better to go then, than in the +middle of the night. But I had more faith in those tents, for they +were new and pitched remarkably well. Soon after we got here, long +poles had been put up on stakes all along each side of, and close to, +the tents, and to these the guy ropes of both tents and "fly" covers +had been securely fastened, all of which had prevented much flopping +of canvas. Dirt had been banked all around the base of the tents, so +with a very little fire we could be warm and fairly comfortable. + +The wind seemed to get worse every minute, and once in a while there +would be a loud "boom" when a big Sibley tent would be ripped open, +and then would come yells from the men as they scrambled after their +belongings. After it became dark it seemed dismal, but Faye would not +go in a building, and I would not leave him alone to hold the stove +down. This was our only care and annoyance. It was intensely cold, and +in order to have a fire we were compelled to hold the pipe down on the +little conical camp stove, for with the flopping of the tent and fly, +the pipe was in constant motion. Faye would hold it for a while, then +I would relieve him, and so on. The holding-down business was very +funny for an hour or two, but in time it became monotonous. + +We got through the night very well, but did not sleep much. The +tearing and snapping of tents, and the shouting of the men when a tent +would fall upon them was heard frequently, and when we looked out in +the morning the camp had the appearance of having been struck by a +cyclone! Two thirds of the tents were flat on the ground, others were +badly torn, and the unfinished log quarters only added to the +desolation. Snow was over everything ten or twelve inches deep. But +the wind had gone down and the atmosphere was wonderfully clear, and +sparkling, and full of frost. + +Dinner the evening before had not been a success, so we were very +prompt to the nice hot breakfast Charlie gave us. That Chinaman has +certainly been a great comfort on this trip. The doctor came over +looking cross and sick. He said at once that we had been wise in +remaining in our comfortable tents, that everybody in the log houses +was sneezing and complaining of stiff joints. The logs have not been +chinked yet, and, as might have been expected, wind and snow swept +through them. The stoves have not been set up, so even one fire was +impossible. Two or three of their tents did go down, however, the +doctor's included, and perhaps they were safer in a breezy house, +after all. + +The mail has been held back, and will start with us. The time of going +was determined at Department Headquarters, and we will have to leave +here on the first--day after to-morrow--if such a thing is possible. +We return by the way of Benton. It is perfectly exasperating to see +prairie chicken all around us on the snow. Early this morning there +was a large covey up in a tree just across the creek from our tent, +looking over at us in a most insolent manner. They acted as though +they knew there was not a shotgun within a hundred miles of them. They +were perfectly safe, for everyone was too nearly frozen to trouble +them with a rifle. + +Camping on the snow will not be pleasant, and we regret very much that +the storm came just at this time. Charlie is busy cooking all sorts of +things for the trip, so he will not have much to do on the little camp +stove. He is a treasure, but says that he wishes we could stay here; +that he does not want to return to Fort Shaw. This puzzles me very +much, as there are so many Chinamen at Shaw and not one here. The +doctor will not go back with us, as he has received orders to remain +at this post during the winter. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +November, 1880. + +THE past few days have been busy ones. The house has received much +needed attention and camp things have been looked over and put away, +ready for the next move. The trip back was a disappointment to me and +not at all pleasant. The wagons were very lightly loaded, so the men +rode in them all the way, and we came about forty miles each day, the +mules keeping up a steady slow trot. Of course I could not ride those +distances at that gait, therefore I was compelled to come in the old, +jerky ambulance. + +The snow was still deep when we left Maginnis, and at the first camp +snow had to be swept from the ground where our tent was pitched. But +after that the weather was warm and sunny. We saw the greatest number +of feathered game--enormous flocks of geese, brant, and ducks. Our +camp one night was near a small lake just the other side of Benton, +and at dusk hundreds of geese came and lit on the water, until it +looked like one big mass of live, restless things, and the noise was +deafening. Some of the men shot at them with rifles, but the geese did +not seem to mind much. + +Charlie told me at Maginnis that he did not want to return to Shaw, +and I wondered at that so many times. I went in the kitchen two +miserable mornings back and found him sitting down looking unhappy and +disconsolate. I do not remember to have ever seen a Chinaman sitting +down that way before, and was afraid he might be sick, but he said at +once and without preamble, "Me go 'way!" He saw my look of surprise +and said again, "Me go 'way--Missee Bulk's Chinee-man tellee me go +'way." I said, "But, Charlie, Lee has no right to tell you to go; I +want you to stay." He hesitated one second, then said in the most +mournful of voices, "Yes, me know, me feel vellee blad, but Lee, he +tellee me go--he no likee mason-man." No amount of persuasion could +induce him to stay, and that evening after dinner he packed his +bedding on his back and went away--to the Crossing, I presume. Charlie +called himself a mason, and has a book that he made himself which he +said was a "mason-man blook," but I learned yesterday that he is a +"high-binder," no mason at all, and for that reason the Chinamen in +the garrison would not permit him to remain here. They were afraid of +him, yet he seemed so very trustworthy in every way. But a highbinder +in one's own house! + +There has been another departure from the family--Bettie has been +sold! Lieutenant Warren wanted her to match a horse he had recently +bought. The two make a beautiful little team, and Bettie is already a +great pet, and I am glad of that, of course, but I do not see the +necessity of Lieutenant Warren's giving her sugar right in front of +our windows! His quarters are near ours. He says that Bettie made no +objections to the harness, but drove right off with her mate. + +There was a distressing occurrence in the garrison yesterday that I +cannot forget. At all army posts the prisoners do the rough work, such +as bringing the wood and water, keeping the yards tidy, bringing the +ice, and so on. Yesterday morning one of the general prisoners here +escaped from the sentry guarding him. The long-roll was beaten, and as +this always means that something is wrong and calls out all the +troops, officers and men, I ran out on the porch to see what was the +matter, fearing there might be a fire some place. It seemed a long +time before the companies got in line, and then I noticed that instead +of fire buckets they were carrying rifles. Directly every company +started off on double time and disappeared in between two sets of +barracks at one corner of the parade ground. Then everything was +unusually quiet; not a human being to be seen except the sentry at the +guardhouse, who was walking post. + +It was pleasant, so I sat down, still feeling curious about the +trouble that was serious enough to call out all the troops. It was not +so very long before Lieutenant Todd, who was officer of the day, came +from the direction the companies had gone, pistol in hand, and in +front of him was a man with ball and chain. That means that his feet +were fastened together by a large chain, just long enough to permit +him to take short steps, and to that short chain was riveted a long +one, at the end of which was a heavy iron ball hanging below his belt. +When we see a prisoner carrying a ball and chain we know that he is a +deserter, or that he has done something very bad, which will probably +send him to the penitentiary, for these balls are never put on a +prisoner who has only a short time in the guardhouse. + +The prisoner yesterday--who seemed to be a young man--walked slowly to +the guardhouse, the officer of the day following closely. Going up the +steps and on in the room to a cot, he unfastened the ball from his +belt and let it thunder down on the floor, and then throwing himself +down on the cot, buried his face in the blankets, an awful picture of +woe and despair. On the walk by the door, and looking at him with +contempt, stood a splendid specimen of manhood--erect, broad-chested, +with clear, honest eyes and a weather-beaten face--a typical soldier +of the United States Army, and such as he, the prisoner inside might +have become in time. Our house is separated from the guardhouse by a +little park only, and I could plainly see the whole thing--the strong +man and the weakling. + +In the meantime, bugles had called the men back to quarters, and very +soon I learned all about the wretched affair. The misguided young man +had deserted once before, was found guilty by a general court-martial, +and sentenced to the penitentiary at Leavenworth for the regulation +time for such an offense, and to-morrow morning he was to have started +for the prison. Now he has to stand a second court-martial, and serve +a double sentence for desertion! + +He was so silly about it too. The prisoners were at the large ice +house down by the river, getting ice out for the daily delivery. There +were sentinels over them, of course, but in some way that man managed +to sneak over the ice through the long building to an open door, +through which he dropped down to the ground, and then he ran. He was +missed almost instantly and the alarm given, but the companies were +sent to the lowland along the river, where there are bushes, for there +seemed to be no other place where he could possibly secrete himself. + +The officer of the day is responsible, in a way, for the prisoners, so +of course Lieutenant Todd went to the ice house to find out the cause +of the trouble, and on his way back he accidentally passed an old +barrel-shaped water wagon. Not a sound was heard, but something told +him to look inside. He had to climb up on a wheel in order to get high +enough to look through the little square opening at the top, but he is +a tall man and could just see in, and peering down he saw the wretched +prisoner huddled at one end, looking more like an animal than a human +being. He ordered him to come out, and marched him to the guardhouse. + +It was a strange coincidence, but the officer of the day happened to +have been promoted from the ranks, had served his three years as an +enlisted man, and then passed a stiff examination for a commission. +One could see by his walk that he had no sympathy for the mother's +baby. He knew from experience that a soldier's life is not hard unless +the soldier himself makes it so. The service and discipline develop +all the good qualities of the man, give him an assurance and manly +courage he might never possess otherwise, and best of all, he learns +to respect law and order. + +The Army is not a rough place, and neither are the men starved or +abused, as many mothers seem to think. Often the company commanders +receive the most pitiful letters from mothers of enlisted men, +beseeching them to send their boys back to them, that they are being +treated like dogs, dying of starvation, and so on. As though these +company commanders did not know all about those boys and the life they +had to live. + +It is such a pity that these mothers cannot be made to realize that +army discipline, regular hours, and plain army food is just what those +"boys" need to make men of them. Judging by several letters I have +read, sent to officers by mothers of soldiers, I am inclined to +believe that weak mothers in many cases are responsible for the +desertion of their weak sons. They sap all manhood from them by +"coddling" as they grow up, and send them out in the world wholly +unequal to a vigorous life--a life without pie and cake at every meal. +Well! I had no intention of moralizing this way, but I have written +only the plain truth. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY +September, 1881. + +THERE has been quite a little flutter of excitement in the garrison +during the past week brought about by a short visit from the Marquis +of Lome and his suite. As governor general of Canada, he had been +inspecting his own military posts, and then came on down across the +line to Shaw, en route to Dillon, where he will take the cars for the +East. Colonel Knight is in command, so it fell upon him to see that +Lord Lome was properly provided for, which he did by giving up +absolutely for his use his own elegantly furnished quarters. Lord Lome +took possession at once and quietly dined there that evening with one +or two of his staff, and Colonel Knight as his guest. + +The members of the suite were entertained by different officers of the +garrison, and Captain Percival of the Second Life Guards was our +guest. They were escorted across the line to this post by a company of +Canadian mounted police, and a brave appearance those redcoats made as +they rode on the parade ground and formed two lines through which the +governor general and his staff rode, with the booming of cannon. +Colonel Knight went out to meet them, escorted by our mounted infantry +in command of Lieutenant Todd. + +The horses of the mounted police were very small, and inferior in +every way to the animals one would expect the Canadian government to +provide, and it did look very funny to see the gorgeously dressed +police with their jaunty, side-tilted caps riding such wretched little +beasts! + +Our officers were on the parade to receive the governor general, and +the regimental band was there also, playing all sorts of things. +Presently, without stop, and as though it was the continuation of a +melody, the first notes of "God Save the Queen" were heard. Instantly +the head of every Englishman and Canadian was uncovered--quietly, and +without ostentation or slightest break in hand-shaking and talking. It +was like a military movement by bugle call! Some of us who were +looking on through filmy curtains thought it a beautiful manifestation +of loving loyalty. They were at a military post of another nation, in +the midst of being introduced to its officers, yet not one failed to +remember and to remind, that he was an Englishman ever! + +Mrs. Gordon saved me the worry of preparing an elaborate dinner at +this far-away place, by inviting us and our guest to dine with her and +her guests. I am inclined to think that this may have been a shrewd +move on the part of the dear friend, so she could have Hang to assist +her own cook at her dinner. It was a fine arrangement, at all events, +and pleased me most of all. I made the salad and arranged the table +for her. Judging from what I saw and heard, Hang was having a glorious +time. He had evidently frightened the old colored cook into complete +idiocy, and was ordering her about in a way that only a Chinaman +knows. + +The dinner was long, but delicious and enjoyable in every way. Lord +Bagot, the Rev. Dr. MacGregor, Captain Chater, and others of the +governor general's staff were there--sixteen of us in all. Captain +Percival sat at my right, of course, and the amount he ate was simply +appalling! And the appetites of Lord Bagot and the others were equally +fine. Course after course disappeared from their plates--not a scrap +left on them--until one wondered how it was managed. Soon after dinner +everyone went to Colonel Knight's quarters, where Lord Lome was +holding a little reception. He is a charming man, very simple in his +manner, and one could hardly believe that he is the son-in-law of a +great queen and heir to a splendid dukedom. + +He had announced that he would start at ten o'clock the next morning, +so I ordered breakfast at nine. A mounted escort from the post was to +go with him to Dillon in command of Faye. It has always seemed so +absurd and really unkind for Americans to put aside our own ways and +customs when entertaining foreigners, and bore them with wretched +representations of things of their own country, thereby preventing +them from seeing life as it is here. So I decided to give our English +captain an out and out American breakfast--not long, or elaborate, but +dainty and nicely served. And I invited Miss Mills to meet him, to +give it a little life. + +Well, nine o'clock came, so did Miss Mills, so did half after nine +come, and then, finally ten o'clock, but Captain Percival did not +come! I was becoming very cross--for half an hour before I had sent +Hang up to call him, knowing that he and Faye also, were obliged to be +ready to start at ten o'clock. I was worried, too, fearing that Faye +would have to go without any breakfast at all. Of course the nice +little breakfast was ruined! Soon after ten, however, our guest came +down and apologized very nicely--said that the bed was so very +delightful be simply could not leave it. Right there I made a mental +resolution to the effect that if ever a big Englishman should come to +my house to remain overnight, I would have just one hour of delight +taken from that bed! + +To my great amusement, also pleasure. Captain Percival ate heartily of +everything, and kept on eating, and with such apparent relish I began +to think that possibly it might be another case of "delight," and +finally to wonder if Hang had anything in reserve. Once he said, "What +excellent cooks you have here!" This made Miss Mills smile, for she +knew that Hang had been loaned out the evening before. Faye soon left +us to attend to matters in connection with the trip, but the three of +us were having a very merry time--for Captain Percival was a most +charming man--when in the room came Captain Chater, his face as black +as the proverbial thundercloud, and after speaking to me, looked +straight and reprovingly at Captain Percival and said, "You are +keeping his excellency waiting!" That was like a bomb to all, and in +two seconds the English captains had shaken hands and were gone. + +The mounted police are still in the post, and I suspect that this is +because their commander is having such a pleasant time driving and +dining with his hostess, who is one of our most lovely and fascinating +women. I received a note from Faye this morning from Helena. He says +that so far the trip has been delightful, and that in every way and by +all he is being treated as an honored guest. Lord Lome declined a +large reception in Helena, because the United States is in mourning +for its murdered President. What an exquisite rebuke to some of our +ignorant Americans! Faye writes that Lord Lome and members of his +staff are constantly speaking in great praise of the officers' wives +at Shaw, and have asked if the ladies throughout the Army are as +charming and cultured as those here. + +Our young horses are really very handsome now, and their red coats are +shining from good grooming and feeding. They are large, and perfectly +matched in size, color, and gait, as they should be, since they are +half brothers. I am learning to drive now, a single horse, and find it +very interesting--but not one half as delightful as riding--I miss a +saddle horse dreadfully. Now and then I ride George--my own horse--but +he always reminds me that his proper place is in the harness, by +making his gait just as rough as possible. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +December, 1881. + +YOU will be greatly surprised to hear that Faye has gone to +Washington! His father is very ill--so dangerously so that a +thirty-days' leave was telegraphed Faye from Department Headquarters, +without his having applied for it so as to enable him to get to +Admiral Rae without delay. Some one in Washington must have asked for +the leave. It takes so long for letters to reach us from the East that +one never knows what may be taking place there. Faye started on the +next stage to Helena and at Dillon will take the cars for Washington. + +Faye went away the night before the entertainment, which made it +impossible for me to be in the pantomime "Villikens and Dinah," so +little Miss Gordon took my place and acted remarkably well, +notwithstanding she had rehearsed only twice. The very stage that +carried Faye from the post, brought to us Mr. Hughes of Benton for a +few days. But this turned out very nicely, for Colonel and Mrs. Mills, +who know him well, were delighted to have him go to them, and there he +is now. The next day I invited Miss Mills and Mr. Hughes to dine with +me informally, and while I was in the dining room attending to the few +pieces of extra china and silver that would be required for dinner (a +Chinaman has no idea of the fitness of things), Volmer, our striker, +came in and said to me that he would like to take the horses and the +single buggy out for an hour or so, as he wanted to show them to a +friend. + +I saw at once that he and I were to have our usual skirmish. There is +one, always, whenever Faye is away any length of time. The man has a +frightful temper, and a year ago shot and killed a deserter. He was +acquitted by military court, and later by civil court, both courts +deciding that the shooting was accidental. But the deserter was a +catholic and Volmer is a quaker, so the feeling in the company was so +hostile toward him that for several nights he was put in the +guardhouse for protection. Then Faye took him as striker, and has +befriended him in many ways. But those colts he could not drive. So I +told him that the horses could not go out during the lieutenant's +absence, unless I went with them. He became angry at once, and said +that it was the first team he had ever taken care of that he was not +allowed to drive as often as he pleased. A big story, of course, but I +said to him quietly, "You heard what I said, Volmer, and further +discussion will be quite useless. You were never permitted to take the +colts out when Lieutenant Rae was here, and now that he is away, you +certainly cannot do so." And I turned back to my spoons and forks. + +Volmer went out of the room, but I had an uncomfortable feeling that +matters were not settled. In a short time I became conscious of loud +talking in the kitchen, and could distinctly hear Volmer using most +abusive language about Faye and me. That was outrageous and not to be +tolerated a second, and without stopping to reason that it would be +better not to hear, and let the man talk his anger off, out to the +kitchen I went. I found Volmer perched upon one end of a large wood +box that stands close to a door that leads out to a shed. I said: +"Volmer, I heard what you have been saying, as you intended I should, +and now I tell you to go out of this house and stay out, until you can +speak respectfully of Lieutenant Rae and of me." But he sat still and +looked sullen and stubborn. I said again, "Go out, and out; of the +yard too." But he did not move one inch. + +By that time I was furious, and going to the door that was so close to +the man he could have struck me, I opened it wide, and pointing out +with outstretched arm I said, "You go instantly!" and instantly he +went. Chinamen are awful cowards, and with the first word I said to +the soldier, Hang had shuffled to his own room, and there he had +remained until he heard Volmer go out of the house. Then he came back, +and looking at me with an expression of the most solemn pity, said, +"He vellee blad man--he killee man--he killee you, meb-bee!" The poor +little heathen was evidently greatly disturbed, and so was I, too. Not +because I was at all afraid of being killed, but because of the two +spirited young horses that still required most careful handling. And +Faye might be away several months! I knew that the commanding officer, +also the quartermaster, would look after them and do everything +possible to assist me, but at the same time I knew that there was not +a man in the post who could take Volmer's place with the horses. He is +a splendid whip and perfect groom. I could not send them to Mr. +Vaughn's to run, as they had been blanketed for a long time, and the +weather was cold. + +Of course I cried a little, but I knew that I had done quite right, +that it was better for me to regulate my own affairs than to call upon +the company commander to do so for me. I returned to the dining room, +but soon there was a gentle knock on the door, and opening it, I saw +Volmer standing in front of me, cap in hand, looking very meek and +humble. Very respectfully he apologized, and expressed his regret at +having offended me. That was very pleasant, but knowing the man's +violent temper, and thinking of coming days, I proceeded to deliver a +lecture to the effect that there was not another enlisted man in the +regiment who would use such language in our house, or be so ungrateful +for kindness that we had shown him. Above all, to make it unpleasant +for me when I was alone. + +I was so nervous, and talking to a soldier that way was so very +disagreeable, I might have broken down and cried again--an awful thing +to have done at that time--if I had not happened to have seen Hang's +head sticking out at one side of his door. He had run to his room +again, but could not resist keeping watch to see if Volmer was really +intending to "killee" me. He is afraid of the soldier, and +consequently hates him. Soon after he came, Volmer, who is a powerful +man, tied him down to his bed with a picket rope, and such yells of +fury and terror were never heard, and when I ran out to see what on +earth was the matter, the Chinaman's eyes were green, and he was +frothing at the mouth. For days after I was afraid that Hang would do +some mischief to the man. + +It is the striker's duty always to attend to the fires throughout the +house, and this Volmer is doing very nicely. But when Faye went away +he told Hang to take good care of me--so he, also, fixes the fires, +and at the same time shows his dislike for Volmer, who will bring the +big wood in and make the fires as they should be. Just as soon as he +goes out, however, in marches Hang, with one or two small pieces of +wood on his silk sleeve, and then, with much noise, he turns the wood +in the stove upside down, and stirs things up generally, after which +he will put in the little sticks and let it all roar until I am quite +as stirred up as the fire. After he closes the dampers he will say to +me in his most amiable squeak, "Me flixee him--he vellee glood now." +This is all very nice as long as the house does not burn. + +Night before last Mrs. Mills invited me to a family dinner. Colonel +Mills was away, but Mr. Hughes was there, also Lieutenant Harvey to +whom Miss Mills is engaged, and the three Mills boys, making a nice +little party. But I felt rather sad--Faye was still en route to +Washington, and going farther from home every hour, and it was +impossible to tell when he would return, Mrs. Mills seemed distraite, +too, when I first got to the house, but she soon brightened up and was +as animated as ever. The dinner was perfect. Colonel Mills is quite an +epicure, and he and Mrs. Mills have a reputation for serving choice +and dainty things on their table. We returned to the little parlor +after dinner, and were talking and laughing, when something went bang! +like the hard shutting of a door. + +Mrs. Mills jumped up instantly and exclaimed, "I knew it--I knew it!" +and rushed to the back part of the house, the rest of us running after +her. She went on through to the Chinaman's room, and there, on his +cot, lay the little man, his face even then the color of old ivory. He +had fired a small Derringer straight to his heart and was quite dead. +I did not like to look at the dying man, so I ran for the doctor and +almost bumped against him at the gate as he was passing. There was +nothing that he could do, however. + +Mrs. Mills told us that Sam had been an inveterate gambler--that he +had won a great deal of money from the soldiers, particularly one, who +had that very day threatened to kill him, accusing the Chinaman of +having cheated. The soldier probably had no intention of doing +anything of the kind, but said it to frighten the timid heathen, just +for revenge. Sam had eaten a little dinner, and was eating ice-cream, +evidently, when something or somebody made him go to his room and +shoot himself. The next morning the Chinamen in the garrison buried +him--not in the post cemetery, but just outside. Upon the grave they +laid one or two suits of clothing, shoes--all Chinese, of course--and +a great quantity of food--much of it their own fruits. That was for +his spirit until it reached the Happy Land. The coyotes ate the food, +but a Chinaman would never believe that, so more food was taken out +this morning. + +They are such a queer people! Hang's breakfast usually consists of a +glass of cold water with two or three lumps of sugar dissolved in it +and a piece of bread broken in it also. When it is necessary for Hang +to be up late and do much extra work, I always give him a can of +salmon, of which he seems very fond--or a chicken, and tell him to +invite one or two friends to sit with him. This smooths away all +little frowns and keeps things pleasant. Volmer killed the chicken +once, and Hang brought it to me with eyes blazing--said it was +poor--and "He ole-ee hin," so I found that the only way to satisfy the +suspicious man was to let him select his own fowl. He always cooks it +in the one way--boils it with Chinese fruits and herbs, and with the +head and feet on--and I must admit that the odor is appetizing. But I +have never tasted it, although Hang has never failed to save a nice +piece for me. He was with Mrs. Pierce two years, and it was some time +before I could convince him that this house was regulated my way and +not hers. Major Pierce was promoted to another regiment and we miss +them very much. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +July, 1882. + +THE garrison seems lonesome since the two companies have been out, and +I am beginning to feel that I am at home alone quite too much. Faye +was in Washington two months, and almost immediately after he got back +he was ordered to command the paymaster's escort from Helena here, and +now he is off again for the summer! The camp is on Birch Creek not far +from the Piegan Agency. The agents become frightened every now and +then, and ask for troops, more because they know the Indians would be +justified in giving trouble than because there is any. + +An officer is sent from the post to inspect all the cattle and rations +that are issued to them--yet there is much cheating. Once it was +discovered that a very inferior brand of flour was being given the +Indians--that sacks with the lettering and marks of the brand the +government was supposed to issue to them had been slipped over the +sacks which really held the inferior flour, and carefully tied. Just +imagine the trouble some one had taken, but there had been a fat +reward, of course, and then, where had those extra sacks come +from--where had the fine flour gone? + +Some one could have explained it all. I must admit, however, that +anyone who has seen an Indian use flour would say that the most +inferior grade would be good enough for them, to be mixed in dirty old +pans, with still dirtier hands. This lack of cleanliness and +appreciation of things by the Indians makes stealing from them very +tempting. + +The very night after the troops had gone out there was an excitement +in the garrison, and, as usual, I was mixed up in it, not through my +own choosing, however. I had been at Mrs. Palmer's playing whist +during the evening, and about eleven o'clock two of the ladies came +down to the house with me. The night was the very darkest I ever saw, +and of this we spoke as we came along the walk. Almost all the lights +were out in the officers' quarters, making the whole post seem dismal, +and as I came in the house and locked the door, I felt as if I could +never remain here until morning. Hang was in his room, of course but +would be no protection whatever if anything should happen. + +Major and Mrs. Stokes have not yet returned from the East, so the +adjoining house is unoccupied, and on my right is Mrs. Norton, who is +alone also, as Doctor Norton is in camp with the troops. She had urged +me to go to her house for the night, but I did not go, because of the +little card party. I ran upstairs as though something evil was at my +heels and bolted my door, but did not fasten the dormer windows that +run out on the roof in front. Before retiring, I put a small, lighted +lantern in a closet and left the door open just a little, thinking +that the streak of light would be cheering and the lantern give me a +light quickly if I should need one. + +Our breakfast had been very early that morning, on account of the +troops marching, and I was tired and fell asleep immediately, I think. +After a while I was conscious of hearing some one walking about in the +room corresponding to mine in the next house, but I dozed on, thinking +to myself that there was no occasion for feeling nervous, as the +people next door were still up. But suddenly I remembered that the +house was closed, and just then I distinctly heard some one go down +the stairs. I kept very still and listened, but heard nothing more and +soon went to sleep again, but again I was awakened--this time by queer +noises--like some one walking on a roof. There were voices, too, as if +some one was mumbling to himself. + +I got the revolver and ran to the middle of the room, where I stood +ready to shoot or run--it would probably have been run--in any +direction. I finally got courage to look through a side window, +feeling quite sure that Mrs. Norton was out with her Chinaman, looking +after some choice little chickens left in her care by the doctor. But +not one light was to be seen in any place, and the inky blackness was +awful to look upon, so I turned away, and just as I did so, something +cracked and rattled down over the shingles and then fell to the +ground. But which roof those sounds came from was impossible to tell. +With "goose flesh" on my arms, and each hair on my head trying to +stand up, I went back to the middle of the room, and there I stood, +every nerve quivering. + +I had been standing there hours--or possibly it was only two short +minutes--when there was one loud, piercing shriek, that made me almost +scream, too. But after it was perfect silence, so I said to myself +that probably it had been a cat--that I was nervous and silly. But +there came another shriek, another, and still another, so expressive +of terror that the blood almost froze in my veins. With teeth +chattering and limbs shaking so I could hardly step, I went to a front +window, and raising it I screamed, "Corporal of the guard!" + +I saw the sentinel at the guardhouse stop, as though listening, in +front of a window where there was a light, and seeing one of the guard +gave strength to my voice, and I called again. That time the sentry +took it up, and yelled, "Corporal of the guard, No. 1!" Instantly +lanterns were seen coming in our direction--ever so many of the guard +came, and to our gate as they saw me at a window. But I sent them on +to the next house where they found poor Mrs. Norton in a white heap on +the grass, quite unconscious. + +The officer of the day was still up and came running to see what the +commotion was about--and several other officers came. Colonel Gregory, +a punctilious gentleman of the old school--who is in command just +now--appeared in a striking costume, consisting of a skimpy evening +gown of white, a dark military blouse over that, and a pair of +military riding boots, and he carried an unsheathed saber. He is very +tall and thin and his hair is very white, and I laugh now when I think +of how funny he looked. But no one thought of laughing at that time. +Mrs. Norton was carried in, and her house searched throughout. No one +was found, but burned matches were on the floor of one or two rooms, +which gave evidence that some one had been there. + +In the yard back of the house a pair of heavy overshoes, also +government socks, were found, so it was decided that the man had +climbed up on the roof and entered the house through a dormer window +that had not been fastened. No one would look for the piece of shingle +that night, but in the morning I found it on the ground close to the +house. + +All the time the search was being made I had been in the window. +Colonel Mills insisted that I should go to his house for the remainder +of the night, but suggested that I put some clothes on first! It +occurred to me then, for the first time, that my own costume was +rather striking--not quite the proper thing for a balcony scene. +Everyone was more than kind, but for a long time after Miss Mills and +I had gone to her room my teeth chattered and big tears rolled down my +face. Mrs. Norton declares that I was more frightened than she was, +and I say, "Yes, probably, but you did not stop to listen to your own +horrible screams, and then, after making us believe that you were +being murdered, you quietly dropped into oblivion and forgot the whole +thing." + +Just as the entire garrison had become quiet once more--bang! went a +gun, and then again we heard people running about to see what was the +matter, and if the burglar had been caught. But it proved to have been +the accidental going off of a rifle at the guardhouse. The instant +that Colonel Gregory ascertained that a soldier had really been in +Mrs. Norton's house, check roll-call was ordered--that is, the officer +of the day went to the different barracks and ordered the first +sergeants to get the men up and call the roll at once, without warning +or preparation. In that way it was ascertained if the men were on +their cots or out of quarters. But that night every man was "present +or accounted for." At the hospital, roll-call was not necessary, but +they found an attendant playing possum! A lantern held close to his +face did not waken him, although it made his eyelids twitch, and they +found that his heart was beating at a furious rate. His clothes had +been thrown down on the floor, but socks were not to be found with +them. + +So he is the man suspected.. He will get his discharge in three days, +and it is thought that he was after a suit of citizen clothes of the +doctor's. Not so very long ago he was their striker. No one in the +garrison has ever heard of an enlisted man troubling the quarters of +an officer, and it is something that rarely occurs. I spend every +night with Mrs. Norton now, who seems to have great confidence in my +ability to protect her, as I can use a revolver so well. She calmly +sleeps on, while I remain awake listening for footsteps. The fact of +my having been at a military post when it was attacked by +Indians--that a man was murdered directly under my window, when I +heard every shot, every moan--and my having had two unpleasant +experiences with horse thieves, has not been conducive to normal +nerves after dark. + +During all the commotion at Mrs. Norton's the night the man got in her +house, her Chinaman did not appear. One of the officers went to his +room in search of the burglar and found him--the Chinaman--sitting up +in his bed, almost white from fear. He confessed to having heard some +one in the kitchen, and when asked why he did not go out to see who it +was, indignantly replied, "What for?--he go way, what for I see him?" + +I feel completely upset without a good saddle horse. George is +developing quite a little speed in single harness, but I do not care +for driving--feel too much as though I was part of the little buggy +instead of the horse. Major and Mrs. Stokes are expected soon from the +East, and I shall be so glad to have my old neighbors back. + +CAMP ON BIRCH CREEK, NEAR PIEGAN AGENCY, MONTANA TERRITORY, +September, 1882. + +BY this time you must have become accustomed to getting letters from +all sorts of out-of-the-way places, therefore I will not weary you +with long explanations, but simply say that Major Stokes and Faye sent +for Mrs. Stokes and me to come to camp, thinking to give us a pleasant +little outing. We came over with the paymaster and his escort. Major +Carpenter seemed delighted to have us with him, and naturally Mrs. +Stokes and I were in a humor to enjoy everything. We brought a nice +little luncheon with us for everybody--that is, everyone in the +ambulance. The escort of enlisted men were in a wagon back of us, but +the officer in charge was with us. + +The Indians have quieted down, and several of the officers have gone +on leave, so with the two companies now here there are only Major +Stokes, who is in command, Faye, Lieutenant Todd, and Doctor Norton. +Mrs. Stokes has seen much of camp life, and enjoys it now and then as +much as I do. The importance of our husbands as hosts--their many +efforts to make us comfortable and entertain us--is amusing, yet very +lovely. They give us no rest whatever, but as soon as we return from +one little excursion another is immediately proposed. There is a +little spring wagon in camp with two seats, and there are two fine +mules to pull it, and with this really comfortable turn-out we drive +about the country. Major Stokes is military inspector of supplies at +this agency, and every Piegan knows him, so when we meet Indians, as +we do often, there is always a powwow. + +Three days ago we packed the little wagon with wraps and other things, +and Major and Mrs. Stokes, Faye, and I started for a two days' outing +at a little lake that is nestled far up on the side of a mountain. It +is about ten miles from here. There is only a wagon trail leading to +it, and as you go on up and up, and see nothing but rocks and trees, +it would never occur to you that the steep slope of the mountain could +be broken, that a lake of good size could be hidden on its side. You +do not get a glimpse of it once, until you drive between the bushes +and boulders that border its banks, and then it is all before you in +amazing beauty. The reflections are wonderful, the high lights showing +with exquisite sharpness against the dark green and purple depths of +the clear, spring water. + +The lake is fearfully deep--the Indians insist that in places it is +bottomless--and it is teeming with trout, the most delicious mountain +trout that can be caught any place, and which come up so cold one can +easily fancy there is an iceberg somewhere down below. Some of these +fish are fourteen or more inches long. + +It was rather late in the afternoon when we reached the lake, so we +hurriedly got ourselves ready for fishing, for we were thinking of a +trout dinner. Four enlisted men had followed us with a wagon, in which +were our tents, bedding, and boxes of provisions, and these men busied +themselves at once by putting up the little tents and making +preparations for dinner, and we were anxious to get enough fish for +their dinner as well as our own. At a little landing we found two +row-boats, and getting in these we were soon out on the lake. + +If one goes to Fish Lake just for sport, and can be contented with +taking in two or three fish during an all day's hard work, flies +should be used always, but if one gets up there when the shadows are +long and one's dinner is depending upon the fish caught, one might as +well begin at once with grasshoppers--at least, that is what I did. I +carried a box of fine yellow grasshoppers up with me, and I cast one +over before the boat had fairly settled in position. It was seized the +instant it had touched the water, and down, down went the trout, its +white sides glistening through the clear water. For some reason still +unaccountable I let it go, and yard after yard of line was reeled out. +Perhaps, after all, it was fascination that kept me from stopping the +plunge of the fish, that never stopped until the entire line was let +out. That brought me to my senses, and I reeled the fish up and got a +fine trout, but I also got at the same time an uncontrollable longing +for land. To be in a leaky, shaky old boat over a watery, bottomless +pit, as the one that trout had been down in, was more than I could +calmly endure, so with undisguised disgust Faye rowed me back to the +landing, where I caught quite as many fish as anyone out in the boats. + +One of the enlisted men prepared dinner for us, and fried the trout in +olive oil, the most perfect way of cooking mountain trout in camp. +They were delicious--so fresh from the icy water that none of their +delicate flavor had been lost, and were crisp and hot. We had cups of +steaming coffee and all sorts of nice things from the boxes we had +brought from the post. A flat boulder made a grand table for us, and +of course each one had his little camp stool to sit upon. Altogether +the dinner was a success, the best part of it being, perhaps, the +exhilarating mountain air that gave us such fine appetites, and a keen +appreciation of everything ludicrous. + +While we were fishing, our tents had been arranged for us in real +soldier fashion. Great bunches of long grass had been piled up on each +side underneath the little mattresses, which raised the beds from the +ground and made them soft and springy. Those "A" tents are very small +and low, and it is impossible to stand up in one except in the center +under the ridgepole, for the canvas is stretched from the ridgepole to +the ground, so the only walls are back and front, where there is an +opening. I had never been in one before and was rather appalled at its +limitations, and neither had I ever slept on the ground before, but I +had gone prepared for a rough outing. Besides, I knew that everything +possible had been done to make Mrs. Stokes and me comfortable. The air +was chilly up on the mountain, but we had any number of heavy blankets +that kept us warm. + +The night was glorious with brilliant moonlight, and the shadows of +the pine trees on the white canvas were black and wonderfully clear +cut, as the wind swayed the branches back and forth. The sounds of the +wind were dismal, soughing and moaning as all mountain winds do, and +made me think of the Bogy-man and other things. I found myself +wondering if anything could crawl under the tent at my side. I +wondered if snakes could have been brought in with the grass. I +imagined that I heard things moving about, but all the time I was +watching those exquisite shadows of the pine needles in a dreamy sort +of way. + +Then all at once I saw the shadow of one, then three, things as they +ran up the canvas and darted this way and that like crazy things, and +which could not possibly have grown on a pine tree. And almost at the +same instant, something pulled my hair! With a scream and scramble I +was soon out of that tent, but of course when I moved all those things +had moved, too, and wholly disappeared. So I was called foolish to be +afraid in a tent after the weeks and months I had lived in camp. But +just then Mrs. Stokes ran from her tent, Major Stokes slowly +following, and then it came out that there had been trouble over there +also, and that I was not the only one in disgrace. Mrs. Stokes had +seen queer shadows on her canvas, and coming to me, said, "Will says +those things are squirrels!" That was too much, and I replied with +indignation, "They are not squirrels at all; they are too small and +their tails are not bushy." + +Well, there was a time! We refused absolutely, positively, to go back +to our tents until we knew all about those darting shadows. We saw +that those two disagreeable men had an understanding with each other +and were much inclined to laugh. It was cold and our wrappers not very +warm, but Mrs. Stokes and I finally sat down upon some camp stools to +await events. Then Faye, who can never resist an opportunity to tease, +said to me, "You had better take care, mice might run up that stool!" +So the cat was out! I have never been afraid of mice, and have always +considered it very silly in women to make such a fuss over them. But +those field mice were different; they seemed inclined to take the very +hair from your head. Of course we could not sit up all night, and +after a time had to return to our tents. I wrapped my head up +securely, so my hair could not be carried off without my knowing +something about it. Ever so many times during the night I heard +talking and smothered laughter, and concluded that the soldiers also +were having small visitors with four swift little legs. + +We had more delicious trout for our breakfast; that time fried with +tiny strips of breakfast bacon. The men had been out on the lake very +early, and had caught several dozen beautiful fish. The dinner the +evening before had been much like an ordinary picnic, but the early +breakfast up on the side of a mountain, with big boulders all around, +was something to remember. One can never imagine the deliciousness of +the air at sunrise up on the Rocky Mountains, It has to be breathed to +be appreciated. + +Everyone fished during the morning and many fish were caught, every +one of which were carefully packed in wet grass and brought to Birch +Creek, to the unfortunates who had not been on that most delightful +trip to Fish Lake. After luncheon we came down from the mountain and +drove to the Piegan Agency. The heavy wagon came directly to camp, of +course. There is nothing remarkable to be seen at the agency--just a +number of ordinary buildings, a few huts, and Indians standing around +the door of a store that resembles a post trader's. Every Indian had +on a blanket, although Major Stokes said there were several among them +who had been to the Carlisle School. + +Along the road before we reached the agency, and for some distance +after we had left it, we passed a number of little one-room log huts +occupied by Indians, often with two squaws and large families of +children; and at some of these we saw wretched attempts at gardening. +Those Indians are provided with plows, spades, and all sorts of +implements necessary for the making of proper gardens, and they are +given grain and seeds to plant, but seldom are any of these things +made use of. An Indian scorns work of any kind--that is only for +squaws. The squaws will scratch up a bit of ground with sticks, put a +little seed in, and then leave it for the sun and rain to do with as +it sees fit. No more attention will be paid to it, and half the time +the seed is not covered. + +One old chief raised some wheat one year--I presume his squaws did all +the work--and he gathered several sackfuls, which was made into flour +at the agency mill. The chief was very proud. But when the next +quarterly issue came around, his ration of flour was lessened just the +amount his wheat had made, which decided all future farming for him! +Why should he, a chief, trouble himself about learning to farm and +then gain nothing in the end! There is a fine threshing machine at the +agency, but the Indians will have nothing whatever to do with it. They +cannot understand its workings and call it the "Devil Machine." + +As we were nearing the Indian village across the creek from us, we +came to a most revolting spectacle. Two or three Indians had just +killed an ox, and were slashing and cutting off pieces of the almost +quivering flesh, in a way that left little pools of blood in places on +the side. There were two squaws with them, squatted on the ground by +the dead animal, and those hideous, fiendish creatures were scooping +up the warm blood with their hands and greedily drinking it! Can one +imagine anything more horrible? We stopped only a second, but the +scene was too repulsive to be forgotten. It makes me shiver even now +when I think of the flashing of those big knives and of how each one +of the savages seemed to be reveling in the smell and taste of blood! +I feel that they could have slashed and cut into one of us with the +same relish. It was much like seeing a murder committed. + +Major Stokes told us last evening that when he returned from the East +a few weeks ago, he discovered that one of a pair of beautiful pistols +that had been presented to him had been stolen, that some one had gone +upstairs and taken it out of the case that was in a closet +corresponding to mine, so that accounts for the footsteps I heard in +that house the night the man entered Mrs. Norton's house. But how did +the man know just where to get a pistol? The hospital attendant who +was suspected that night got his discharge a few days later. He stayed +around the garrison so long that finally Colonel Gregory ordered him +to leave the reservation, and just before coming from the post we +heard that he had shot a man and was in jail. A very good place for +him, I think. + +We expect to return to the post in a few days. I would like to remain +longer, but as everybody and everything will go, I can't very well. +The trout fishing in Birch Creek is very good, and I often go for a +little fish, sometimes alone and sometimes Mrs. Stokes will go with +me. I do not go far, because of the dreadful Indians that are always +wandering about. They have a small village across the creek from us, +and every evening we hear their "tom-toms" as they chant and dance, +and when the wind is from that direction we get a smell now and then +of their dirty tepees. Major Stokes and Mrs. Stokes, also, see the +noble side of Indians, but that side has always been so covered with +blankets and other dirty things I have never found it! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +November, 1882. + +YOU will be shocked, I know, when you hear that we are +houseless--homeless--that for the second time Faye has been ranked out +of quarters! At Camp Supply the turn out was swift, but this time it +has been long drawn out and most vexatious. Last month Major Bagley +came here from Fort Maginnis, and as we had rather expected that he +would select our house, we made no preparations for winter previous to +his coming. But as soon as he reached the post, and many times after, +he assured Faye that nothing could possibly induce him to disturb us, +and said many more sweet things. + +Unfortunately for us, he was ordered to return to Fort Maginnis to +straighten out some of his accounts while quartermaster, and Mrs. +Bagley decided to remain as she was until Major Bagley's return. He +was away one month, and during that time the gardener stored away in +our little cellar our vegetables for the winter, including quantities +of beautiful celery that was packed in boxes. All those things had to +be taken down a ladder, which made it really very hard work. Having +faith in Major Bagley's word, the house was cleaned from top to +bottom, much painting and calcimining having been done. All the floors +were painted and hard-oiled, and everyone knows what discomfort that +always brings about. But at last everything was finished, and we were +about to settle down to the enjoyment of a tidy, cheerful little home +when Major Bagley appeared the second time, and within two hours Faye +was notified that his quarters had been selected by him! + +We are at present in two rooms and a shed that happened to be +unoccupied, and I feel very much as though I was in a second-hand +shop. Things are piled up to the ceiling in both rooms, and the shed +is full also. All of the vegetables were brought up from the cellar, +of course, and as the weather has been very cold, the celery and other +tender things were frozen. General and Mrs. Bourke have returned, and +at once insisted upon our going to their house, but as there was +nothing definite about the time when we will get our house, we said +"No." We are taking our meals with them, however, and Hang is there +also, teaching their new Chinaman. But I can assure you that I am more +than cross. If Major Bagley had selected the house the first time he +came, or even if he had said nothing at all about the quarters, much +discomfort and unpleasantness would have been avoided. They will get +our nice clean house, and we will get one that will require the same +renovating we have just been struggling with. I have made up my mind +unalterably to one thing--the nice little dinner I had expected to +give Major and Mrs. Bagley later on, will be for other people, friends +who have had less honey to dispose of. + +The splendid hunting was interrupted by the move, too. Every October +in this country we have a snowstorm that lasts usually three or four +days; then the snow disappears and there is a second fall, with clear +sunny days until the holidays. This year the weather remained warm and +the storm was later than usual, but more severe when it did come, +driving thousands of water-fowl down with a rush from the mountain +streams and lakes. There is a slough around a little plateau near the +post, and for a week or more this was teeming with all kinds of ducks, +until it was frozen over. Sometimes we would see several species +quietly feeding together in the most friendly way. Faye and I would +drive the horses down in the cutter, and I would hold them while he +walked on ahead hunting. + +One day, when the snow was falling in big moist flakes that were so +thick that the world had been narrowed down to a few yards around us, +we drove to some tall bushes growing on the bank of the slough. Faye +was hunting, and about to make some ducks rise when he heard a great +whir over his head, and although the snow was so thick he could not +see just what was there, he quickly raised his gun and fired at +something he saw moving up there. To his great amazement and my +horror, an immense swan dropped down and went crashing through the +bushes. It was quite as white as the snow on the ground, and coming +from the dense cloud of snow above, where no warning of its presence +had been given, no call sounded, one felt that there was something +queer about it all. With its enormous wings spread, it looked like an +angel coming to the earth. + +The horses thought so, also, for as soon as it touched the bushes they +bolted, and for a few minutes I was doubtful if I could hold them. I +was so vexed with them, too, for I wanted to see that splendid bird. +They went around and around the plateau, and about all I was able to +do at first was to keep them from going to the post. They finally came +down to a trot, but it was some time before I could coax them to go to +the bushes where the swan had fallen. I did not blame them much, for +when the big bird came down, it seemed as if the very heavens were +falling. We supplied our friends with ducks several days, and upon our +own dinner table duck was served ten successive days. And it was just +as acceptable the last day as the first, for almost every time there +was a different variety, the cinnamon, perhaps, being the most rare. + +Last year Hang was very contrary about the packing down of the eggs +for winter use. I always put them in salt, but he thought they should +be put in oats because Mrs. Pierce had packed hers that way. You know +he had been Mrs. Pierce's cook two years before he came to me, and for +a time he made me weary telling how she had things done. Finally I +told him he must do as I said, that he was my cook now. There was +peace for a while, and then came the eggs. + +He would not do one thing to assist me, not even take down the eggs, +and looked at Volmer with scorn when he carried down the boxes and +salt. I said nothing, knowing what the result would be later on if +Hang remained with me. When the cold weather came and no more fresh +eggs were brought in, it was astonishing to see how many things that +stubborn Chinaman could make without any eggs at all. Get them out of +the salt he simply would not. Of course that could not continue +forever, so one day I brought some up and left them on his table +without saying a word. He used them, and after that there was no +trouble, and one day in the spring he brought in to show me some +beautifully beaten eggs, and said, "Velly glood--allee same flesh." + +This fall when the time came to pack eggs, I said, "Hang, perhaps we +had better pack the eggs in oats this year." He said, "Naw, loats no +glood!" Then came my revenge. I said, "Mrs. Pierce puts hers in oats," +but he became angry and said, "Yes, me know--Missee Pleese no +know--slalt makee him allee same flesh." And in salt they are, and +Hang packed every one. I offered to show him how to do it, but he +said, "Me know--you see." It gave him such a fine opportunity to +dictate to Volmer! If the striker did not bring the eggs the very +moment he thought they should be in, Hang would look him up and say, +"You bling leggs!" Just where these boxes of eggs are I do not know. +The Chinaman has spirited them off to some place where they will not +freeze. He cannot understand all this ranking out of quarters, +particularly after he had put the house in perfect order. When I told +him to sweep the rooms after everything had been carried out, he said: +"What for? You cleanee house nuff for him; he no care," and off he +went. I am inclined to think that the little man was right, after all. + +There have been many changes in the garrison during the past few +months, and a number of our friends have gone to other posts. Colonel +and Mrs. Palmer, Major and Mrs. Pierce, and Doctor and Mrs. Gordon are +no longer here. We have lost, consequently, both of our fine tenors +and excellent organist, and our little choir is not good now. Some of +us will miss in other ways Colonel Palmer's cultivated voice. During +the summer four of us found much pleasure in practicing together the +light operas, each one learning the one voice through the entire +opera. + +When we get settled, if we ever do, we will be at our old end of the +garrison again, and our neighbors on either side will be charming +people. There is some consolation in that; nevertheless, I am thinking +all the time of the pretty walls and shiny floors we had to give up, +and to a very poor housekeeper, too. After we get our house, it will +take weeks to fix it up, and it will be impossible to take the same +interest in it that we found in the first. If Faye gets his first +lieutenancy in the spring, it is possible that we may have to go to +another post, which will mean another move. But I am tired and cross; +anyone would be under such uncomfortable conditions. + +FORT ELLIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +March, 1883. + +THE trip over was by far the most enjoyable of any we have taken +between Fort Shaw and this post, and we were thankful enough that we +could come before the snow began to melt on the mountains. Our +experience with the high water two years ago was so dreadful that we +do not wish to ever encounter anything of the kind again. The weather +was delightful--with clear, crisp atmosphere, such as can be found +only in this magnificent Territory. It was such a pleasure to have our +own turn-out, too, and to be able to see the mountains and canons as +we came along, without having our heads bruised by an old ambulance. + +Faye had to wait almost twelve years for a first lieutenancy, and now, +when at last he has been promoted, it has been the cause of our +leaving dear friends and a charming garrison, and losing dear yellow +Hang, also. The poor little man wept when he said good-by to me in +Helena. We had just arrived and were still on the walk in front of the +hotel, and of course all the small boys in the street gathered around +us. I felt very much like weeping, too, and am afraid I will feel even +more so when I get in my own home. Hang is going right on to China, to +visit his mother one year, and I presume that his people will consider +him a very rich man, with the twelve hundred dollars he has saved. He +has never cut his hair, and has never worn American clothes. Even in +the winter, when it has been freezing cold, he would shuffle along on +the snow with his Chinese shoes. + +I shall miss the pretty silk coats about the house, and his swift, +almost noiseless going around. That Chinamen are not more generally +employed I cannot understand, for they make such exceptional servants. +They are wonderfully economical, and can easily do the work of two +maids, and if once you win their confidence and their affection they +are your slaves. But they are very suspicious. Once, when Bishop +Tuttle was with us, he wanted a pair of boots blackened, and set them +in his room where Hang could see them, and on the toe of one he put a +twenty-five cent piece. Hang blackened the boots beautifully, and then +put the money back precisely where it was in the first place. Then he +came to me and expressed his opinion of the dear bishop. He said, +"China-man no stealee--you tellee him me no stealee--he see me no +takee him"--and then he insisted upon my going to see for myself that +the money was on the boot. I was awfully distressed. The bishop was to +remain with us several days, and no one could tell how that Chinaman +might treat him, for I saw that he was deeply hurt, but it was utterly +impossible to make him believe otherwise than that the quarter had +been put there to test his honesty. I finally concluded to tell the +bishop all about it, knowing that his experience with all kinds of +human nature had been great in his travels about to his various +missions, and his kindness and tact with miner, ranchman, and cowboy; +he is now called by them lovingly "The Cowboy Bishop." He laughed +heartily about Hang, and said, "I'll fix that," which he must have +done to Hang's entire satisfaction, for he fairly danced around the +bishop during the remainder of his stay with us. + +Faye was made post quartermaster and commissary as soon as he reported +for duty here, and is already hard at work. The post is not large, but +the office of quartermaster is no sinecure. An immense amount of +transportation has to be kept in readiness for the field, for which +the quartermaster alone is held responsible, and this is the base of +supplies for outfits for all parties--large and small--that go to the +Yellowstone Park, and these are many, now that Livingstone can be +reached from the north or the south by the Northern Pacific Railroad. +Immense pack trains have to be fitted out for generals, congressmen, +even the President himself, during the coming season. These people +bring nothing whatever with them for camp, but depend entirely upon +the quartermaster here to fit them out as luxuriously as possible with +tents and commissaries--even to experienced camp cooks! + +The railroad has been laid straight through the post, and it looks +very strange to see the cars running directly back of the company +quarters. The long tunnel--it is to be called the Bozeman tunnel--that +has been cut through a large mountain is not quite finished, and the +cars are still run up over the mountain upon a track that was laid +only for temporary use. It requires two engines to pull even the +passenger trains up, and when the divide is reached the "pilot" is +uncoupled and run down ahead, sometimes at terrific speed. One day, +since we came, the engineer lost control, and the big black thing +seemed almost to drop down the grade, and the shrieking of the +continuous whistle was awful to listen to; it seemed as if it was the +wailing of the souls of the two men being rushed on--perhaps to their +death. The thing came on and went screaming through the post and on +through Bozeman, and how much farther we do not know. Some of the +enlisted men got a glimpse of the engineer as he passed and say that +his face was like chalk. We will not be settled for some time, as Faye +is to take a set of vacant quarters on the hill until one of the +officers goes on leave, when we will move to that house, as it is +nicer and nearer the offices. He could have taken it when we came had +he been willing to turn anyone out. It seems to me that I am waiting +for a house about half the time, yet when anyone wants our house it +is taken at once! + +For a few days we are with Lieutenant and Mrs. Fiske. They gave us an +elegant dinner last evening. Miss Burt and her brother came up from +Bozeman. This evening we dine with Major and Mrs. Gillespie of the +cavalry. He is in command of the post--and tomorrow we will dine with +Captain and Mrs. Spencer. And so it will go on, probably, until +everyone has entertained us in some delightful manner, as this is the +custom in the Army when there are newcomers in the garrison. I am so +sorry that these courtesies cannot be returned for a long time--until +we get really settled, and then how I shall miss Hang! How I am to do +without him I do not quite see. + +FORT ELLIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +July, 1884. + +THIS post is in a most dilapidated condition, and it--also the country +about--looks as though it had been the scene of a fierce bombardment. +And bombarded we certainly have been--by a terrific hailstorm that +made us feel for a time that our very lives were in danger. The day +had been excessively warm, with brilliant sunshine until about three +o'clock, when dark clouds were seen to be coming up over the Bozeman +Valley, and everyone said that perhaps at last we would have the rain +that was so much needed, I have been in so many frightful storms that +came from innocent-looking clouds, that now I am suspicious of +anything of the kind that looks at all threatening. Consequently, I +was about the first person to notice the peculiar unbroken gray that +had replaced the black of a few minutes before, and the first, too, to +hear the ominous roar that sounded like the fall of an immense body of +water, and which could be distinctly heard fifteen minutes before the +storm reached us. + +While I stood at the door listening and watching, I saw several people +walking about in the garrison, each one intent upon his own business +and not giving the storm a thought. Still, it seemed to me that it +would be just as well to have the house closed tight, and calling +Hulda we soon had windows and doors closed--not one minute too soon, +either, for the storm came across the mountains with hurricane speed +and struck us with such force that the thick-walled log houses fairly +trembled. With the wind came the hail at the very beginning, changing +the hot, sultry air into the coldness of icebergs. Most of the +hailstones were the size of a hen's egg, and crashed through windows +and pounded against the house, making a noise that was not only +deafening but paralyzing. The sounds of breaking glass came from every +direction and Hulda and I rushed from one room to the other, not +knowing what to do, for it was the same scene everyplace--floors +covered with broken glass and hail pouring in through the openings. + +The ground upon which the officers' quarters are built is a little +sloping, therefore it had to be cut away, back of the kitchen, to make +the floor level for a large shed where ice chest and such things are +kept, and there are two or three steps at the door leading from the +shed up to the ground outside. This gradual rise continues far back to +the mountains, so by the time the hail and water reached us from above +they had become one broad, sweeping torrent, ever increasing in +volume. In one of the boards of our shed close to the steps, and just +above the ground, there happened to be a large "knot" which the +pressure of the water soon forced out, and the water and hailstones +shot through and straight across the shed as if from a fire hose, +striking the wall of the main building! The sight was most +laughable--that is, at first it was; but we soon saw that the awful +rush of water that was coming in through the broken sash and the +remarkable hose arrangement back of the kitchen was rapidly flooding +us. + +So I ran to the front door, and seeing a soldier at one of he barrack +windows, I waved and waved my hand until he saw me. He understood at +once and came running over, followed by three more men, who brought +spades and other things. In a short time sods had been banked up at +every door, and then the water ceased to come in. By that time the +heaviest of the storm had passed over, and the men, who were most +willing and kind, began to shovel out the enormous quantity of +hailstones from the shed. They found by actual measurement that they +were eight inches deep--solid hail, and over the entire floor. Much of +the water had run into the kitchen and on through to the butler's +pantry, and was fast making its way to the dining room when it was cut +off. The scenes around the little house were awful. More or less water +was in each room, and there was not one unbroken pane of glass to be +found, and that was not all---there was not one unbroken pane of glass +in the whole post. That night Faye telegraphed to St. Paul for glass +to replace nine hundred panes that had been broken. + +Faye was at the quartermaster's office when the storm came up, and +while it was still hailing I happened to look across the parade that +way, and in the door I saw Faye standing. He had left the house not +long before, dressed in a suit of immaculate white linen, and it was +that suit that enabled me to recognize him through the veil of rain +and hail. Sorry as I was, I had to laugh, for the picture was so +ludicrous--Faye in those chilling white clothes, broken windows each +side of him, and the ground covered with inches of hailstones and ice +water! He ran over soon after the men got here, but as he had to come +a greater distance his pelting was in proportion. Many of the stones +were so large it was really dangerous to be hit by them. + +When the storm was over the ground was white, as if covered with snow, +and the high board fences that are around the yards back of the +officers' quarters looked as though they had been used for targets and +peppered with big bullets. Mount Bridger is several miles distant, yet +we can distinctly see from here the furrows that were made down its +sides. It looks as if deep ravines had been cut straight down from +peak to base. The gardens are wholly ruined--not one thing was left in +them. The poor little gophers were forced out of their holes by the +water, to be killed by the hail, and hundreds of them are lying around +dead. I wondered and wondered why Dryas did not come to our +assistance, but he told us afterward that when the storm first came he +went to the stable to fasten the horses up snug, and was then afraid +to come away, first because of the immense hailstones, and later +because both horses were so terrified by the crashing in of their +windows, and the awful cannonade of hail on the roof. A new cook had +come to us just the day before the storm, and I fully expected that +she would start back to Bozeman that night, but she is still here, and +was most patient over the awful condition of things all over the +house. She is a Pole and a good cook, so there is a prospect of some +enjoyment in life after the house gets straightened out. There was one +thing peculiar about that storm. Bozeman is only three miles from +here, yet not one hailstone, not one drop of rain did they get there. +They saw the moving wall of gray and heard the roar, and feared that +something terrible was happening up here. + +The storm has probably ruined the mushrooms that we have found so +delicious lately. At one time, just out of the post, there was a long, +log stable for cavalry horses which was removed two or three years +ago, and all around, wherever the decayed logs had been, mushrooms +have sprung up. When it rains is the time to get the freshest, and +many a time Mrs. Fiske and I have put on long storm coats and gone out +in the rain for them, each bringing in a large basket heaping full of +the most delicate buttons. The quantity is no exaggeration +whatever--and to be very exact, I would say that we invariably left +about as many as we gathered. Usually we found the buttons massed +together under the soft dirt, and when we came to an umbrella-shaped +mound with little cracks on top, we would carefully lift the dirt with +a stick and uncover big clusters of buttons of all sizes. We always +broke the large buttons off with the greatest care and settled the +spawn back in the loose dirt for a future harvest. We often found +large mushrooms above ground, and these were delicious baked with +cream sauce. They would be about the size of an ordinary saucer, but +tender and full of rich flavor--and the buttons would vary in size +from a twenty-five-cent piece to a silver dollar, each one of a +beautiful shell pink underneath. They were so very superior to +mushrooms we had eaten before--with a deliciousness all their own. + +We are wondering if the storm passed over the Yellowstone Park, where +just now are many tents and considerable transportation. The party +consists of the general of the Army, the department commander, members +of their staffs, and two justices of the supreme court. From the park +they are to go across country to Fort Missoula, and as there is only a +narrow trail over the mountains they will have to depend entirely upon +pack mules. These were sent up from Fort Custer for Faye to fit out +for the entire trip. I went down to the corral to see them start out, +and it was a sight well worth going to see. It was wonderful, and +laughable, too, to see what one mule could carry upon his back and two +sides. + +The pack saddles are queer looking things that are strapped carefully +and firmly to the mules, and then the tents, sacks, boxes, even stoves +are roped to the saddle. One poor mule was carrying a cooking stove. +There were forty pack mules and one "bell horse" and ten packers--for +of course it requires an expert packer to put the things on the saddle +so they are perfectly balanced and will not injure the animal's back. +The bell horse leads, and wherever it goes the mules will follow. + +At present Faye is busy with preparations for two more parties of +exceedingly distinguished personnel. One of these will arrive in a day +or two, and is called the "Indian Commission," and consists of senator +Dawes and fourteen congressmen. The other party for whom an elaborate +camp outfit is being put in readiness consists of the President of the +United States, the lieutenant general of the Army, the governor of +Montana, and others of lesser magnitude. A troop of cavalry will +escort the President through the park. Now that the park can be +reached by railroad, all of the generals, congressmen, and judges are +seized with a desire to inspect it--in other words, it gives them a +fine excuse for an outing at Uncle Sam's expense. + +CAMP ON YELLOWSTONE RIVER, YELLOWSTONE PARK, +August, 1884. + +OUR camp is in a beautiful pine grove, just above the Upper Falls and +close to the rapids; from out tent we can look out on the foaming +river as it rushes from one big rock to another. Far from the bank on +an immense boulder that is almost surrounded by water is perched my +tent companion, Miss Hayes. She says the view from there is grand, but +how she can have the nerve to go over the wet, slippery rocks is a +mystery to all of us, for by one little misstep she would be swept +over the falls and to eternity. + +Our party consists of Captain and Mrs. Spencer, their little niece, +Miss Hayes, and myself--oh, yes, Lottie, the colored cook, and six or +eight soldiers. We have part of the transportation that Major General +Schofield used for this same trip two weeks ago, and which we found +waiting for us at Mammoth Hot Springs. We also have two saddle horses. +By having tents and our own transportation we can remain as long as we +wish at any one place, and can go to many out-of-the-way spots that +the regular tourist does not even hear of. But I do not intend to +weary you with long descriptions of the park, the wonderful geysers, +or the exquisitely tinted water in many of the springs, but to tell +you of our trip, that has been most enjoyable from the very minute we +left Livingstone. + +We camped one night by the Fire-Hole River, where there is a spring I +would like to carry home with me! The water is very hot--boils up a +foot or so all the year round, and is so buoyant that in a porcelain +tub of ordinary depth we found it difficult to do otherwise than +float, and its softening effect upon the skin is delightful. A pipe +has been laid from the spring to the little hotel, where it is used +for all sorts of household purposes. Just fancy having a stream of +water that a furnace somewhere below has brought to boiling heat, +running through your house at any and all times. They told us that +during the winter when everything is frozen, all kinds of wild animals +come to drink at the overflow of the spring. There are hundreds of hot +springs in the park, I presume, but that one at Marshall's is +remarkable for the purity of its water. + +Captain Spencer sent to the hotel for fresh meat and was amazed when +the soldier brought back, instead of meat, a list from which he was +asked to select. At that little log hotel of ten or twelve rooms there +were seven kinds of meat--black-tail deer, white-tail deer, bear, +grouse, prairie chicken, squirrels, and domestic fowl--the latter +still in possession of their heads. Hunting in the park is prohibited, +and the proprietor of that fine game market was most careful to +explain to the soldier that everything had been brought from the other +side of the mountain. That was probably true, but nevertheless, just +as we were leaving the woods by "Hell's Half Acre," and were coming +out on a beautiful meadow surrounded by a thick forest, we saw for one +instant a deer standing on the bank of a little stream at our right, +and then it disappeared in the forest. Captain Spencer was on +horseback, and happening to look to the left saw a man skulking to the +woods with a rifle in his hand. The poor deer would undoubtedly have +been shot if we had been a minute or two later. + +For two nights our camp was in the pine forest back of "Old Faithful," +and that gave us one whole day and afternoon with the geysers. Our +colored cook was simply wild over them, and would spend hours looking +down in the craters of those that were not playing. Those seemed to +fascinate her above all things there, and at times she looked like a +wild African when she returned to camp from one of them. Not far from +the tents of the enlisted men was a small hot spring that boiled +lazily in a shallow basin. It occurred to one of the men that it would +make a fine laundry, so he tied a few articles of clothing securely to +a stick and swished them up and down in the hot sulphur water and then +hung them up to dry. Another soldier, taking notice of the success of +that washing, decided to do even better, so he gathered all the +underwear, he had with him, except those he had on, and dropped them +down in the basin. He used the stick, but only to push them about +with, and alas! did not fasten them to it. They swirled about for a +time, and then all at once every article disappeared, leaving the poor +man in dumb amazement. He sat on the edge of the spring until dark, +watching and waiting for his clothes to return to him; but come back +they did not. Some of the men watched with him, but most of them +teased him cruelly. Such a loss on a trip like this was great. + +When we got to Obsidian Mountain, Miss Hayes and I decided that we +would like to go up a little distance and get a few specimens to carry +home with us. Our camp for the night was supposed to be only one mile +farther on, and the enlisted men and two wagons were back of us, so we +thought we could safely stay there by ourselves. The so-called +mountain is really only a foothill to a large mountain, but is most +interesting from the fact that it is covered with pieces of obsidian, +mostly smoke-color, and that long ago Indians came there for +arrowheads. + +A very narrow road has been cut out of the rocks at the base of the +mountain, and about four feet above a small stream. It has two very +sharp turns, and all around, as far as we could see, it would be +exceedingly dangerous, if not impossible, for large wagons to pass. +Miss Hayes and I went on up, gathering and rejecting pieces of +obsidian that had probably been gathered and rejected by hundreds of +tourists before us, and we were laughing and having a beautiful time +when, for some reason, I looked back, and down on the point where the +road almost doubles on itself I saw an old wagon with two horses, and +standing by the wagon were two men. They were looking at us, and very +soon one beckoned. I looked all around, thinking that some of their +friends must certainly be near us, but no one was in sight. By that +time one man was waving his hat to us, and then they actually called, +"Come on down here--come down, it is all right!" + +Miss Hayes is quite deaf, and I was obliged to go around rocks before +I could get near enough to tell her of the wagon below, and the men +not hear me. She gave the men and wagon an indifferent glance, and +then went on searching for specimens. I was so vexed I could have +shaken her. She will scream over a worm or spider, and almost faint at +the sight of a snake, but those two men, who were apparently real +tramps, she did not mind. The situation was critical, and for just one +instant I thought hard. If we were to go over the small mountain we +would probably be lost, and might encounter all sorts of wild beasts, +and if those men were really vicious they could easily overtake us. +Besides, it would never do to let them suspect that we were afraid. So +I decided to go down--and slowly down I went, almost dragging Miss +Hayes with me. She did not understand my tactics, and I did not stop +to explain. + +I went right to the men, taking care to get between them and the road +to camp. I asked them if they were in trouble of any kind, and they +said "No." I could hardly control my voice, but it seemed important +that I should give them to understand at once who we were. So I said, +"Did you meet our friends in the army ambulance just down the road?" +The two looked at each other and then one said "Yes!" I continued +with, "There are two very large and heavily loaded army wagons, and a +number of soldiers coming down the other road that should be here +right now." They smiled again, and said something to each other, but I +interrupted with, "I do not see how those big wagons and four mules +can pass you here, and it seems to me you had better get out of their +way, for soldiers can be awfully cross if things are not just to suit +them." + +Well, those two men got in the old wagon without saying one word and +started on, and we watched them until they had disappeared from sight +around a bend, and then I said to Miss Hayes, "Come!" and lifting my +skirts, I started on the fastest run I ever made in my life, and I +kept it up until I actually staggered. Then I sat upon a rock back of +some bushes and waited for Miss Hayes, who appeared after a few +minutes. We rested for a short time and then went on and on, and still +there was nothing to be seen of the meadow where the camp was supposed +to be. Finally, after we had walked miles, it seemed to us, we saw an +opening far ahead, and the sharp silhouette of a man under the arch of +trees, and when we reached the end of the wooded road we found Captain +Spencer waiting for us. He at once started off on a fine +inspection-day reprimand, but I was tired and cross and reminded him +that it was he who had told us that the camp would be only one mile +from us, and if we had not listened to him we would not have stopped +at all. Then we all laughed! + +Captain and Mrs. Spencer had become worried, and the ambulance was +just starting back for us when fortunately we appeared. Miss Hayes +cannot understand yet why I went down to that wagon. The child does +not fear tramps and desperadoes, simply because she has never +encountered them. Whether my move was wise or unwise, I knew that down +on the road we could run--up among the rocks we could not. Besides, I +have the satisfaction of knowing that once in my life I outgeneraled a +man--two men--and whether they were friends or foes I care not now. I +was wearing an officer's white cork helmet at the time, and possibly +that helped matters a little. But why did they call to us--why beckon +for us to come down? It was my birthday too. That evening Mrs. Spencer +made some delicious punch and brought out the last of the huge fruit +cake she made for the trip. We had bemoaned the fact of its having all +been eaten, and all the time she had a piece hidden away for my +birthday, as a great surprise. + +We have had one very stormy day. It began to rain soon after we broke +camp in the morning, not hard, but in a cold, penetrating drizzle. +Captain and Mrs. Spencer were riding that day and continued to ride +until luncheon, and by that time they were wet to the skin and shaking +from the cold. We were nearing the falls, the elevation was becoming +greater and the air more chilling every minute. We had expected to +reach the Yellowstone River that day, but it was so wet and +disagreeable that Captain Spencer decided to go into camp at a little +spring we came to in the early afternoon, and which was about four +miles from here. The tents were pitched just above the base of a +hill--you would call it a mountain in the East--and in a small grove +of trees. The ground was thickly carpeted with dead leaves, and +everything looked most attractive from the ambulance. + +When Miss Hayes and I went to our tent, however, to arrange it, we +found that underneath that thick covering of leaves a sheet of water +was running down the side of the hill, and with every step our feet +sank down almost ankle deep in the wet leaves and water. Each has a +little iron cot, and the two had been set up and the bedding put upon +them by the soldiers, and they looked so inviting we decided to rest a +while and get warm also. But much to our disgust we found that our +mattresses were wet and all of our blankets more or less wet, too. It +was impossible to dry one thing in the awful dampness, so we folded +the blankets with the dry part on top as well as we could, and then +"crawled in." We hated to get up for dinner, but as we were guests, we +felt that we must do so, but for that meal we waited in vain--not one +morsel of dinner was prepared that night, and Miss Hayes and I envied +the enlisted men when we got sniffs of their boiling coffee. Only a +soldier could have found dry wood and a place for making coffee that +night. + +When it is at all wet Faye always has our tents "ditched," that is, +the sod turned up on the canvas all around the bottom. So just before +dark I asked Captain Spencer if the men could not do that to our tent, +and it was done without delay. It made a great difference in our +comfort, for at once the incoming of the water was stopped. We all +retired early that night, and notwithstanding our hunger, and the wet +below and above us, our sleep was sound. In the morning we found +several inches of snow on the ground and the whole country was white. +The snow was so moist and clinging, that the small branches of trees +were bent down with its weight, and the effect of the pure white on +the brilliant greens was enchanting. Over all was the glorious +sunshine that made the whole grand scene glisten and sparkle like +fairyland. And that day was the twenty-sixth of August! + +It was wretchedly cold, and our heaviest wraps seemed thin and light. +Lottie gave us a nice hot breakfast, and after that things looked much +more cheerful. By noon most of the snow had disappeared, and after an +early luncheon we came on to these dry, piney woods, that claim an +elevation of nine thousand feet. The rarefied air affects people so +differently. Some breathe laboriously and have great difficulty in +walking at all, while to others it is most exhilarating, and gives +them strength to walk great distances. Fortunately, our whole party is +of the latter class. + +Yesterday morning early we all started for a tramp down the canon. I +do not mean that we were in the canon by the river, for that would +have been impossible, but that we went along the path that runs close +to the edge of the high cliff. We carried our luncheon with us, so +there was no necessity for haste, and every now and then we sat upon +the thick carpet of pine needles to rest, and also study the marvelous +coloring of the cliffs across the river. The walls of the canon are +very high and very steep--in many places perpendicular--and their +strata of brilliant colors are a marvel to everyone. It was a day to +be remembered, and no one seemed to mind being a little tired when we +returned late in the afternoon. The proprietor of the little log hotel +that is only a short distance up the river, told Captain Spencer that +we had gone down six good miles--giving us a tramp altogether, of +twelve miles. It seems incredible, for not one of us could walk one +half that distance in less rarefied air. + +Just below the big falls, and of course very near our camp, is a +nature study that we find most interesting. An unusually tall pine +tree has grown up from between the boulders at the edge of the river. +The tree is now dead and its long branches have fallen off, but a few +outspreading short ones are still left, and right in the center of +these a pair of eagles have built a huge nest, and in that nest, right +now, are two dear eaglets! The tree is some distance from the top of +the cliff, but it is also lower, otherwise we would not have such a +fine view of the nest and the big babies. They look a little larger +than mallard ducks, and are well feathered. They fill the nest to +overflowing, and seem to realize that if they move about much, one +would soon go overboard. The two old birds--immense in size--can be +seen soaring above the nest at almost any time, but not once have we +seen them come to the nest, although we have watched with much +patience for them to do so. The great wisdom shown by those birds in +the selection of a home is wonderful. It would be utterly impossible +for man or beast to reach it. + +Another nature study that we have seen in the park, and which, to me, +was most wonderful, was a large beaver village. Of course most people +of the Northwest have seen beaver villages of various sizes, but that +one was different, and should be called a city. There were elevated +roads laid off in squares that run with great precision from one +little house to the other. There are dozens and dozens of +houses--perhaps a hundred--in the marshy lake, and the amount of +intelligence and cunning the little animals have shown in the +construction of their houses and elevated roads is worth studying. +They are certainly fine engineers. + +We take the road home from here, but go a much more direct route, +which will be by ambulance all the way to Fort Ellis, instead of going +by the cars from Mammoth Hot Springs. I am awfully glad of this, as it +will make the trip one day longer, and take us over a road that is new +to us, although it is the direct route from Ellis to the Park through +Rocky Canon. + +FORT ELLIS, MONTANA TERRITORY, +November, 1884. + +ONLY a few days more, and then we will be off for the East! It is over +seven years since we started from Corinne on that long march north, +and I never dreamed at that time that I would remain right in this +territory, until a splendid railroad would be built to us from another +direction to take us out of it. Nearly everything is packed. We expect +to return here in the spring, but in the Army one never knows what +destiny may have waiting for them at the War Department. Besides, I +would not be satisfied to go so far away and leave things scattered +about. + +The two horses, wagons, and everything of the kind have been disposed +of--not because we wanted to sell them, but because Faye was unwilling +to leave the horses with irresponsible persons during a long winter in +this climate, when the most thoughtful care is absolutely necessary to +keep animals from suffering. Lieutenant Gallagher of the cavalry +bought them, and we are passing through our second experience of +seeing others drive around horses we have petted, and taught to know +us apart from all others. George almost broke my heart the other day. +He was standing in front of Lieutenant Gallagher's quarters, that are +near ours, when I happened to go out on the walk, not knowing the +horses were there. He gave a loud, joyous whinnie, and started to come +to me, pulling Pete and the wagon with him. I ran back to the house, +for I could not go to him! He had been my own horse, petted and fed +lumps of sugar every day with my own hands, and I always drove him in +single harness, because his speed was so much greater than Pete's. + +My almost gownless condition has been a cause of great worry to me, +but Pogue has promised to fix up my wardrobe with a rush, and after +the necessary time for that in Cincinnati, I will hurry on to Columbus +Barracks for my promised visit to Doctor and Mrs. Gordon. Then on +home! Faye will go to Cincinnati with me, and from there to the United +States Naval Home, of which his father is governor at present. I will +have to go there, too, before so very long. + +We attended a pretty cotillon in Bozeman last evening and remained +overnight at the hotel. Faye led, and was assisted by Mr. Ladd, of +Bozeman. It was quite a large and elaborate affair, and there were +present "the butcher, the baker, and candlestick maker." Nevertheless, +everything was conducted with the greatest propriety. There are five +or six very fine families in the small place--people of culture and +refinement from the East--and their influence in the building up of +the town has been wonderful. The first year we were at Fort Ellis one +would see every now and then a number, usually four numerals, painted +in bright red on the sidewalk. Everyone knew that to have been the +work of vigilantes, and was a message to some gambler or horse thief +to get himself out of town or stand the shotgun or rope jury. The +first time I saw those red figures--I knew what they were for--it +seemed as if they had been made in blood, and step over them I could +not. I went out in the road around them. We have seen none of those +things during the past two years, and for the sake of those who have +worked so hard for law and order, we hope the desperado element has +passed on. + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +May, 1885. + +IT is nice to be once more at this dear old post, particularly under +such very pleasant circumstances. The winter East was enjoyable and +refreshing from first to last, but citizens and army people have so +little in common, and this one feels after being with them a while, no +matter how near and dear the relationship may be. Why, one half of +them do not know the uniform, and could not distinguish an officer of +the Army from a policeman! I love army life here in the West, and I +love all the things that it brings to me--the grand mountains, the +plains, and the fine hunting. The buffalo are no longer seen; every +one has been killed off, and back of Square Butte in a rolling valley, +hundreds of skeletons are bleaching even now. The valley is about two +miles from the post. + +We are with the commanding officer and his wife, and Hulda is here +also. She was in Helena during the winter and came from there with us. +I am so glad to have her. She is so competent, and will be such a +comfort a little later on, when there will be much entertaining for us +to do. We stopped at Fort Ellis two days to see to the crating of the +furniture and to get all things in readiness to be shipped here, this +time by the cars instead of by wagon, through mud and water. We were +guests of Captain and Mrs. Spencer, and enjoyed the visit so much. +Doctor and Mrs. Lawton gave an informal dinner for us, and that was +charming too. + +But the grand event of the stop-over was the champagne supper that +Captain Martin gave in our honor--that is, in honor of the new +adjutant of the regiment. He is the very oldest bachelor and one of +the oldest officers in the regiment--a very jolly Irishman. The supper +was old-fashioned, with many good things to eat, and the champagne +frappe was perfect. I do believe that the generous-hearted man had +prepared at least two bottles for each one of us. Every member of the +small garrison was there, and each officer proposed something pleasant +in life for Faye, and often I was included. There was not the least +harm done to anyone, however, and not a touch of headache the next +day. + +As usual, we are waiting for quarters to avoid turning some one out. +But for a few days this does not matter much, as our household goods +are not here, except the rugs and things we sent out from +Philadelphia. Faye entered upon his new duties at guard mounting this +morning, and I scarcely breathed until the whole thing was over and +the guard was on its way to the guardhouse! It was so silly, I knew, +to be afraid that Faye might make a mistake, for he has mounted the +guard hundreds of times while post adjutant. But here it was +different. I knew that from almost every window that looked out on the +parade ground, eyes friendly and eyes envious were peering to see how +the new regimental adjutant conducted himself, and I knew that there +was one pair of eyes green from envy and pique, and that the least +faux-pas by Faye would be sneered at and made much of by their owner. +But Faye made no mistake, of course. I knew all the time that it was +quite impossible for him to do so, as he is one of the very best +tacticians in the regiment--still, it is the unexpected that so often +happens. + +The band and the magnificent drum major, watching their new commander +with critical eyes, were quite enough in themselves to disconcert any +man. I never told you what happened to that band once upon a time! It +was before we came to the regiment, and when headquarters were at Fort +Dodge, Kansas. Colonel Mills, at that time a captain, was in command. +It had been customary to send down to the river every winter a detail +of men from each company to cut ice for their use during the coming +year. Colonel Mills ordered the detail down as usual, and also ordered +the band down. It seems that Colonel Fitz-James, who had been colonel +of the regiment for some time, had babied the bandsmen, one and all, +until they had quite forgotten the fact of their being enlisted men. + +So over to Colonel Mills went the first sergeant with a protest +against cutting ice, saying that they were musicians and could not be +expected to do such work, that it would chap their lips and ruin their +delicate touch on the instruments. Colonel Mills listened patiently +and then said, "But you like ice during the summer, don't you?" The +sergeant said, "Yes, sir, but they could not do such hard work as the +cutting of ice." Colonel Mills said, "You are musicians, you say?" The +unsuspicious sergeant, thinking he had gained his point, smilingly +said, "Yes, sir!" But there must have been an awful weakness in his +knees when Colonel Mills said, "Very well, since you are musicians and +cannot cut ice, you will go to the river and play for the other men +while they cut it for you!" The weather was freezing cold, and the +playing of brass instruments in the open air over two feet of solid +ice, would have been painful and difficult, so it was soon decided +that it would be better to cut ice, after all, and in a body the band +went down with the other men to the river without further complaint or +protest. + +It is a splendid band, and has always been regarded as one of the very +best in the Army, but there are a few things that need changing, which +Faye will attend to as quickly as possible, and at the same time bring +criticism down upon his own head. The old adjutant is still in the +post, and--"eyes green" are here! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +August, 1885. + +MY ride this morning was grand! My new horse is beginning to see that +I am really a friend, and is much less nervous. It is still necessary, +however, for Miller, our striker, to make blinders with his hands back +of Rollo's eyes so he will not see me jump to the saddle, otherwise I +might not get there. I mount in the yard back of the house, where no +one can see me. The gate is opened first, and that the horse always +stands facing, for the instant he feels my weight upon his back there +is a little flinch, then a dash down the yard, a jump over the +acequia, then out through the gate to the plain beyond, where he +quiets down and I fix my stirrup. + +There is not a bit of viciousness about this, as the horse is gentle +and most affectionate at all times, but he has been terribly +frightened by a saddle, and it is distressing to see him tremble and +his very flesh quiver when one is put upon his back, no matter how +gently. He had been ridden only three or four times when we bought +him, and probably by a "bronco breaker," who slung on his back a heavy +Mexican saddle, cinched it tight without mercy, then mounted with a +slam over of a leather-trousered leg, let the almost crazy horse go +like the wind, and if he slackened his speed, spurs or "quirt," +perhaps both, drove him on again. I know only too well how the +so-called breaking is done, for I have seen it many times, and the +whole performance is cruel and disgraceful. There are wicked horses, +of course, but there are more wicked men, and many a fine, spirited +animal is ruined, made an "outlaw" that no man can ride, just by the +fiendish way in which they are first ridden. But the more crazy the +poor beast is made, the more fun and glory for the breaker. + +Rollo is a light sorrel and a natural pacer; he cannot trot one step, +and for that reason I did not want him, but Faye said that I had +better try him, so he was sent up. The fact of his being an unbroken +colt, Faye seemed to consider a matter of no consequence, but I soon +found that it was of much consequence to me, inasmuch as I was obliged +to acquire a more precise balance in the saddle because of his coltish +ways, and at the same time make myself--also the horse--perfectly +acquainted with the delicate give and take of bit and bridle, for with +a pacer the slightest tightening or slackening at the wrong time will +make him break. When Rollo goes his very fastest, which is about 2:50, +I never use a stirrup and never think of a thing but his mouth! There +is so little motion to his body I could almost fancy that he had no +legs at all--that we are being rushed through the air by some unseen +force. It is fine! + +Faye has reorganized the band, and the instrumentation is entirely +new. It was sent to him by Sousa, director of the Marine Band, who has +been most kind and interested. The new instruments are here, so are +the two new sets of uniform--one for full dress, the other for +concerts and general wear. Both have white trimmings to correspond +with the regiment, which are so much nicer than the old red facings +that made the band look as if it had been borrowed from the artillery. +All this has been the source of much comment along the officers' +quarters and in the barracks across the parade ground, and has caused +several skirmishes between Faye and the band. It was about talked out, +however, when I came in for my share of criticism! + +The post commander and Faye came over from the office one morning and +said it was their wish that I should take entire charge of the music +for services in church, that I could have an orchestra of soft-toned +instruments, and enlisted men to sing, but that all was to be under my +guidance. I must select the music, be present at all practicings, and +give my advice in any way needed. At first I thought it simply a very +unpleasant joke, but when it finally dawned upon me that those two men +were really in earnest, I was positive they must be crazy, and that I +told them. The whole proposition seemed so preposterous, so +ridiculous, so everything! I shall always believe that Bishop Brewer +suggested church music by the soldiers. Faye is adjutant and in +command of the band, so I was really the proper person to take charge +of the church musicians if anybody did, but the undertaking was simply +appalling. But the commanding officer insisted and Faye insisted, and +both gave many reasons for doing so. The enemy was too strong, and I +was forced to give in, the principal reason being, however, that I did +not want some one else to take charge! + +In a short time the little choir was organized and some of the very +best musicians in the band were selected for the orchestra. We have +two violins (first and second), one clarinet, violoncello, oboe, and +bassoon, the latter instrument giving the deep organ tones. There have +been three services, and at one Sergeant Graves played an exquisite +solo on the violin, "There is a green hill far away," from the +oratorio of St. Paul. At another, Matijicek played Gounod's "Ave +Maria" on the oboe, and last Sunday he gave us, on the clarinet, +"Every valley shall be exalted." The choir proper consists of three +sergeants and one corporal, and our tenor is his magnificence, the +drum major! + +Service is held in a long, large hall, at the rear end of which is a +smaller room that can be made a part of the hall by folding back large +doors. We were just inside this small room and the doors were opened +wide. On a long bench sat the four singers, two each side of a very +unhappy woman, and back of the bench in a half circle were the six +musicians. Those musicians depended entirely upon me to indicate to +them when to play and the vocalists when to sing, therefore certain +signals had been arranged so that there would be no mistake or +confusion. There I sat, on a hot summer morning, almost surrounded by +expert musicians who were conscious of my every movement, and then, +those men were soldiers accustomed to military precision, and the fear +of making a mistake and leading them wrong was agonizing. At the +farther end of the hall the Rev. Mr. Clark was standing, reading along +in an easy, self-assured way that was positively irritating. And +again, there was the congregation, each one on the alert, ready to +criticise, probably condemn, the unheard-of innovation! Every man, +woman, and child was at church that morning, too--many from curiosity, +I expect--and every time we sang one half of them turned around and +stared at us. + +During the reading of the service I could not change my position, turn +my head, or brush the flies that got upon my face, without those six +hands back of me pouncing down for their instruments. It was +impossible to sing the chants, as the string instruments could not +hold the tones, so anthems were used instead--mostly Millard's--and +they were very beautiful. Not one mistake has ever been made by +anyone, but Sergeant Moore has vexed me much. He is our soprano, and +has a clear, high-tenor voice and often sings solos in public, but for +some unexplainable reason he would not sing a note in church unless I +sang with him, so I had to hum along for the man's ear alone. Why he +has been so frightened' I do not know, unless it was the unusual +condition of things, which have been quite enough to scare anyone. + +Well, I lived through the three services, and suppose I can live +through more. The men are not compelled to do this church work, +although not one would think of refusing. There is much rehearsing to +be done, and Sergeant Graves has to transpose the hymns and write out +the notes for each instrument, and this requires much work. To show my +appreciation of their obedience to my slightest request, a large cake +and dozens of eggs have been sent to them after each service. It is +funny how nice things to eat often make it easy for a man to do things +that otherwise would be impossible! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +July, 1886. + +MY trip to Helena was made alone, after all! The evening before I +started Mrs. Todd told me that she could not go, frankly admitting +that she was afraid to go over the lonesome places on the road with +only the driver for a protector. It was important that I should see a +dentist, and Mrs. Averill was depending upon me to bring her friend +down from Helena who was expected from the East, so I decided to go +alone. The quartermaster gave me the privilege of choosing my driver, +and I asked for a civilian, a rather old man who is disliked by +everyone because of his surly, disagreeable manner. Just why I chose +him I cannot tell, except that he is a good driver and I felt that he +could be trusted. The morning we started Faye said to him, "Driver, +you must take good care of Mrs. Rae, for she asked for you to drive on +this trip," which must have had its effect--that, and the nice lunch I +had prepared for him--for he was kind and thoughtful at all times. + +It takes two days to go to Helena from here, a ride of forty-five +miles one day and forty the second; and on each long drive there are +stretches of miles and miles over mountains and through canons where +one is far from a ranch or human being, and one naturally thinks of +robbers and other unpleasant things. At such places I rode on top with +the driver, where I could at least see what was going on around us. + +Just before we crossed the Bird-Tail divide we came to a wonderful +sight, "a sight worth seeing," the driver said; and more to gratify +him than because I wanted to, we stopped. An enormous corral had been +put up temporarily, and in it were thousands of sheep, so closely +packed that those in the center were constantly jumping over the +others, trying to find a cooler place. In the winter, when the weather +is very cold, sheep will always jump from the outer circle of the band +to the center, where it is warm; they always huddle together in cold +weather, and herders are frequently compelled to remain right with +them, nights at a time, working hard every minute separating them so +they will not smother. One of the men, owner of the sheep, I presume, +met us and said he would show me where to go so I could see everything +that was being done, which proved to be directly back of a man who was +shearing sheep. They told me that he was the very fastest and most +expert shearer in the whole territory. Anyone could see that he was an +expert, for three men were kept busy waiting upon him. At one corner +of the corral was a small, funnel-shaped "drive," the outer opening of +which was just large enough to squeeze a sheep through, and in the +drive stood a man, sheep in hand, ever ready to rush it straight to +the hands of the shearer the instant he was ready for it. + +The shearer, who was quite a young man, sat upon a box close to the +drive, and when he received a sheep it was always the same +way--between his knees--and he commenced and finished the shearing of +each animal exactly the same way, every clip of the large shears +counting to the best advantage. They told me that he gained much time +by the unvarying precision that left no ragged strips to be trimmed +off. The docility of those wild sheep was astonishing. Almost while +the last clip was being made the sheep was seized by a second +assistant standing at the shearer's left, who at once threw the poor +thing down on its side, where he quickly painted the brand of that +particular ranch, after which it was given its freedom. It was most +laughable to see the change in the sheep--most of them looking lean +and lanky, whereas in less than one short minute before, their sides +had been broad and woolly. A third man to wait upon the shearer was +kept busy at his right carefully gathering the wool and stuffing it in +huge sacks. Every effort was made to keep it clean, and every tiny bit +was saved. + +About four o'clock we reached Rock Creek, where we remained overnight +at a little inn. The house is built of logs, and the architecture is +about as queer as its owner. Mrs. Gates, wife of the proprietor, can +be, and usually is, very cross and disagreeable, and I rather dreaded +stopping there alone. But she met me pleasantly--that is, she did not +snap my head off--so I gathered courage to ask for a room that would +be near some one, as I was timid at night. That settled my standing in +her opinion, and with a "Humph!" she led the way across a hall and +through a large room where there were several beds, and opening a door +on the farther side that led to still another room, she told me I +could have that, adding that I "needn't be scared to death, as the +boys will sleep right there." I asked her how old the boys were, and +she snapped, "How old! why they's men folks," and out of the room she +went. Upon looking around I saw that my one door opened into the next +room, and that as soon as the "boys" occupied it I would be virtually +a prisoner. To be sure, the windows were not far from the ground, and +I could easily jump out, but to jump in again would require longer +arms and legs than I possessed. But just then I felt that I would much +prefer to encounter robbers, mountain lions, any gentle creatures of +that kind, to asking Mrs. Gates for another room. + +When I went out to supper that night I was given a seat at one end of +a long table where were already sitting nine men, including my own +civilian driver, who, fortunately, was near the end farthest from me. +No one paid the slightest attention to me, each man attending to his +own hungry self and trying to outdo the others in talking. Finally +they commenced telling marvelous tales about horses that they had +ridden and subdued, and I said to myself that I had been told all +about sheep that day, and there it was about horses, and I wondered +how far I would have to go to hear all sorts of things about cattle! +But anything about a horse is always of interest to me, and those men +were particularly entertaining, as it was evident that most of them +were professional trainers. + +There was sitting at the farther end of the table a rather +young-looking man, who had been less talkative than the others, but +who after a while said something about a horse at the fort. The +mentioning of the post was startling, and I listened to hear what +further he had to say. And he continued, "Yes, you fellers can say +what yer dern please about yer broncos, but that little horse can +corral any dern piece of horseflesh yer can show up. A lady rides him, +and I guess I'd put her up with the horse. The boys over there say +that she broke the horse herself, and I say! you fellers orter see her +make him go--and he likes it, too." + +By the time the man stopped talking, my excitement was great, for I +was positive that he had been speaking of Rollo, although no mention +had been made of the horse's color or gait. So I asked what gait the +horse had. He and two or three of the other men looked at me with pity +in their eyes--actual pity--that plainly said, "Poor thing--what can +you know about gaits"; but he answered civilly, "Well, lady, he is +what we call a square pacer," and having done his duty he turned again +to his friends, as though they only could understand him, and said, +"No cow swing about that horse. He is a light sorrel and has the very +handsomest mane yer ever did see--it waves, too, and I guess the lady +curls it--but don't know for sure." + +The situation was most unusual and in some ways most embarrassing, +also. Those nine men were rough and unkempt, but they were splendid +horsemen--that I knew intuitively--and to have one of their number +select my very own horse above all others to speak of with unstinted +praise, was something to be proud of, but to have my own self calmly +and complacently disposed of with the horse--"put up," in fact--was +quite another thing. But not the slightest disrespect had been +intended, and to leave the table without making myself known was not +to be thought of. I wanted the pleasure, too, of telling those men +that I knew the gait of a pacer very well--that not in the least did I +deserve their pity. My face was burning and my voice unnatural when I +threw the bomb! + +I said, "The horse you are speaking of I know very well. He is mine, +and I ride him, and I thank you very much for the nice things you have +just said about him!" Well, there was a sudden change of scene at that +table--a dropping of knives and forks and various other things, and I +became conscious of eyes--thousands of eyes--staring straight at me, +as I watched my bronco friend at the end of the table. The man had +opened his eyes wide, and almost gasped "Gee-rew-s'lum!"--then utterly +collapsed. He sat back in his chair gazing at me in a helpless, +bewildered way that was disconcerting, so I told him a number of +things about Rollo--how Faye had taken him to Helena during race week +and Lafferty, a professional jockey of Bozeman, had tested his speed, +and had passed a 2:30 trotter with him one morning. The men knew +Lafferty, of course. There was a queer coincidence connected with him +and Rollo. The horse that he was driving at the races was a pacer +named Rolla, while my horse, also a pacer, was named Rollo. + +All talk about horses ceased at once, and the men said very little to +each other during the remainder of the time we were at the table. It +was almost pathetic, and an attention I very much appreciated, to see +how bread, pickles, cold meat, and in fact everything else on that +rough table, were quietly pushed to me, one after the other, without +one word being said. That was their way of showing their approval of +me. It was unpolished, but truly sincere. + +I was not at all afraid that night, for I suspected that the horsemen +at the supper-table were the "boys" referred to by Mrs. Gates. But it +was impossible to sleep. The partition between the two rooms must have +been very thin, for the noises that came through were awful. It seemed +as though dozens of men were snoring at the same time, and that some +of them were dangerously "croupy," for they choked and gulped, and +every now and then one would have nightmare and groan and yell until +some one would tell him to "shut up," or perhaps say something funny +about him to the others. No matter how many times those men were +wakened they were always cheerful and good-natured about it. A +statement that I cannot truthfully make about myself on the same +subject! + +It was not necessary for me to leave my room through the window the +next morning, although my breakfast was early. The house seemed +deserted, and I had the long table all to myself. At six o'clock we +started on our ride to Helena. I sat with the driver going through the +long Prickly-Pear canon, and had a fine opportunity of seeing its +magnificent grandeur, while the early shadows were still long. The sun +was on many of the higher boulders, that made them sparkle and show +brilliantly in their high lights and shadows. The trees and bushes +looked unusually fresh and green. We hear that a railroad will soon be +built through that canon--but we hope not. It would be positively +wicked to ruin anything so grand. + +We reached Helena before luncheon, and I soon found Miss Duncan, who +was expecting me. We did not start back until the second day, so she +and I visited all the shops and then drove out to Sulphur Spring. The +way everybody and everything have grown and spread out since the +Northern Pacific Railroad has been running cars through Helena is most +amazing. It was so recently a mining town, just "Last Chance Gulch," +where Chinamen were digging up the streets for gold, almost +undermining the few little buildings, and Chinamen also were raising +delicious celery, where now stand very handsome houses. Now Main +street has many pretentious shops, and pretty residences have been put +up almost to the base of Mount Helena. + +The ride back was uneventful, greatly to Miss Duncan's disappointment. +It is her first visit to the West, and she wants to see cowboys and +all sorts of things. I should have said "wanted to see," for I think +that already her interest in brass buttons is so great the cowboys +will never be thought of again. There were two at Rock Creek, but they +were uninteresting--did not wear "chaps," pistols, or even big spurs. +At the Bird-Tail not one sheep was to be seen--every one had been +sheared, and the big band driven back to its range. Miss Duncan is a +pretty girl, and unaffected, and will have a delightful visit at this +Western army post, where young girls from the East do not come every +day. And then we have several charming young bachelors! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +December, 1887. + +THE excitement is about over. Our guests have returned to their homes, +and now we are settling down to our everyday garrison life. The +wedding was very beautiful and as perfect in every detail as adoring +father and mother and loving friends could make it. It was so strictly +a military wedding, too--at a frontier post where everything is of +necessity "army blue"--the bride a child of the regiment, her father +an officer in the regiment many years, and the groom a recent graduate +from West Point, a lieutenant in the regiment. We see all sorts of +so-called military weddings in the East--some very magnificent church +affairs, others at private houses, and informal, but there are ever +lacking the real army surroundings that made so perfect the little +wedding of Wednesday evening. + +The hall was beautifully draped with the greatest number of flags of +all sizes--each one a "regulation," however--and the altar and chancel +rail were thickly covered with ropes and sprays of fragrant Western +cedars and many flowers, and from either side of the reredos hung from +their staffs the beautifully embroidered silken colors of the +regiment. At the rear end of the hall stood two companies of enlisted +men--one on each side of the aisle--in shining full-dress uniforms, +helmets in hand. The bride's father is captain of one of those +companies, and the groom a lieutenant in the other. As one entered the +hall, after passing numerous orderlies, each one in full-dress +uniform, of course, and walked up between the two companies, every man +standing like a statue, one became impressed by the rare beauty and +military completeness of the whole scene. + +The bride is petite and very young, and looked almost a child as she +and her father slowly passed us, her gown of heavy ivory satin +trailing far back of her. The orchestra played several numbers +previous to the ceremony--the Mendelssohn March for processional, and +Lohengrin for recessional, but the really exquisite music was during +the ceremony, when there came to us softly, as if floating from afar +over gold lace and perfumed silks and satins, the enchanting strains +of Moszkowski's Serenade! Faye remained with the orchestra all the +time, to see that the music was changed at just the right instant and +without mistake. The pretty reception was in the quarters of Major and +Mrs. Stokes, and there also was the delicious supper served. Some of +the presents were elegant. A case containing sixty handsome small +pieces of silver was given by the officers of the regiment. A superb +silver pitcher by the men of Major Stokes's company, and an exquisite +silver after-dinner coffee set by the company in which the groom is a +lieutenant. Several young officers came down from Fort Assiniboine to +assist as ushers, and there were at the post four girls from Helena. +An army post is always an attractive place to girls, but it was +apparent from the first that these girls came for an extra fine time. +I think they found it! + +They were all at our cotillon Monday evening, and kept things moving +fast. It was refreshing to have a new element, and a little variety in +partners. We have danced with each other so much that everyone has +become more or less like a machine. Faye led, dancing with Miss +Stokes, for whom the german was given. The figures were very +pretty--some of them new--and the supper was good. To serve +refreshments of any kind at the hall means much work, for everything +has to be prepared at the house--even coffee, must be sent over hot; +and every piece of china and silver needed must be sent over also. +Mrs. Hughes came from Helena on Saturday and remained with me until +yesterday. + +You know something of the awful times I have had with servants since +Hulda went away! First came the lady tourist--who did us the honor to +consent to our paying her expenses from St. Paul, and who informed me +upon her arrival that she was not obliged to work out--no indeed--that +her own home was much nicer than our house--that she had come up to +see the country, and so forth. We found her presence too great a +burden, particularly as she could not prepare the simplest meal, and +so invited her to return to her elegant home. Then came the two +women--the mother to Mrs. Todd, the daughter to me--who were insulted +because they were expected to occupy servant's rooms, and could not +"eat with the family"--so Mrs. Todd and I gave them cordial +invitations to depart. Then came my Russian treasure--a splendid cook, +but who could not be taught that a breakfast or dinner an hour late +mattered to a regimental adjutant, and wondered why guard mounting +could not be held back while she prepared an early breakfast for Faye. +After a struggle of two months she was passed on. A tall, angular +woman with dull red hair drawn up tight and twisted in a knot as hard +as her head, was my next trial. She was the wife of a gambler of the +lowest type, but that I did not know while she was here. + +One day I told her to do something that she objected to, and with her +hands clinched tight she came up close as if to strike me. I stood +still, of course, and quietly said, "You mustn't strike me." She +looked like a fury and screamed, "I will if I want to!" She was inches +taller than I, but I said, "If you do, I will have you locked in the +guardhouse." She became very white, and fairly hissed at me, "You +can't do that--I ain't a soldier." I told her, "No, if you were a +soldier you would soon be taught to behave yourself," and I continued, +"you are in an army post, however, and if you do me violence I will +certainly call the guard." Before I turned to go from the room I +looked up at her and said, "Now I expect you to do what I have told +you to do." I fully expected a strike on my head before I got very +far, but she controlled herself. I went out of the house hoping she +would do the same and never return, but she was there still, and we +had to tell her to go, after all. I must confess, though, that the +work she had objected to doing she did nicely while I was out. Miller +told me that she had three pistols and two large watches in her +satchel when she went away. + +Then came a real treasure--Scotch Ellen--who has been with us six +months, and has been very satisfactory every way. To be sure she has +had awful headaches, and often it has been necessary for some one to +do her work. She and the sergeant's wife prepared the supper for the +german, and everything was sent to the hall in a most satisfactory +way--much to my delight. Nothing wrong was noticed the next morning +either, until she carried chocolate to Mrs. Hughes, when I saw with +mortification that she looked untidy, but thinking of the confusion in +her part of the house, I said nothing about it. + +Our breakfast hour is twelve o'clock, and about eleven Mrs. Hughes and +I went out for a little walk. In a short time Faye joined us, and just +before twelve I came in to see if everything was in its proper place +on the table. As I went down the hall I saw a sight in the dining room +that sent shivers down my back. On the table were one or two doilies, +and one or two of various other things, and at one side stood the +Scotch treasure with a plate in one hand upon which were a few butter +balls, and in the other she held a butter pick. The doors leading +through pantry into the kitchen were open and all along the floor I +could see here and there a little golden ball that had evidently +rolled off the plate. I could also see the range--that looked black +and cold and without one spark of fire! + +Going to the side of the table opposite Ellen I said, "Ellen, what is +the matter with you?"--and looking at me with dull, heavy eyes, she +said, "And what is the matter wit' you?" Then I saw that she was +drunk, horribly drunk, and told her so, but she could only say, "I'm +drunk, am I?" I ran outside for Faye, but he and Mrs. Hughes had +walked to the farther end of the officers' line, and I was compelled +to go all that distance before I could overtake them and tell of my +woes. I wanted the woman out of the house as quickly as possible, so +that Miller--who is a very good cook--and I could prepare some sort of +a breakfast. Faye went to the house with his longest strides and told +the woman to go at once, and I saw no more of her. Mrs. Hughes was +most lovely about the whole affair--said that not long ago she had +tried a different cook each week for six in succession. That was +comforting, but did not go far toward providing a breakfast for us. +Miller proved to be a genuine treasure, however, and the sergeant's +wife--who is ever "a friend indeed"--came to our assistance so soon we +scarcely missed the Scotch creature. Still, it was most exasperating +to have such an unnecessary upheaval, just at the very time we had a +guest in the house--a dainty, fastidious little woman, too--and wanted +things to move along smoothly. I wonder of what nationality the next +trial will be! If one gets a good maid out here the chances are that +she will soon marry a soldier or quarrel with one, as was the Case +with Hulda. For some unaccountable reason a Chinese laundry at Sun +River has been the cause of all the Chinamen leaving the post. + +Now I must tell of something funny that happened to me. + +The morning before Mrs. Hughes arrived I went out for a little ride, +and about two miles up the river I left the road to follow a narrow +trail that leads to a bluff called Crown Butte. I had to go through a +large field of wild rosebushes, then across an alkali bed, and then +through more bushes. I had passed the first bushes and was more than +half way across the alkali, Rollo's feet sinking down in the sticky +mud at every step, when there appeared from the bushes in front of me, +and right in the path, two immense gray wolves. If they had studied to +surprise me in the worst place possible they could not have succeeded +better. Rollo saw them, of course, and stopped instantly, giving deep +sighs, preparing to snort, I knew. To give myself courage I talked to +the horse, slowly turning him around, so as to not excite him, or let +the timber wolves see that I was running from them. + +But the horse I could not deceive, for as soon as his back was toward +them, head and tail went up, and there was snort after snort. He could +not run, as we were still in the alkali lick. I looked back and saw +that the big gray beasts were slowly moving toward us, and I +recognized the fact that the mud would not stop them, if they chose to +cross it. Once free of the awful stickiness, I knew that we would be +out of danger, as the swiftest wolf could never overtake the +horse--but it seemed as if it were miles across that white mud. But at +last we got up on solid ground, and were starting off at Rollo's best +pace, when from out of the bushes in front of us, there came a third +wolf! The horse stopped so suddenly it is a wonder I was not pitched +over his head, but I did not think of that at the time. + +The poor horse was terribly frightened, and I could feel him tremble, +which made me all the more afraid. The situation was not pleasant, and +without stopping to think, I said, "Rollo, we must run him down--now +do your best!" and taking a firm hold of the bridle, and bracing +myself in the saddle, I struck the horse hard with my whip and gave an +awful scream. I never use a whip on him, so the sting on his side and +yell in his ears frightened him more than the wolf had, and he started +on again with a rush. But the wolf stood still--so did my heart--for +the beast looked savage. When it seemed as though we were actually +upon him I struck the horse again and gave scream after scream as fast +as my lungs would allow me. The big gray thing must have thought +something evil was coming, for he sprang back, and then jumped over in +the bushes and did not show himself again. Rollo came home at an awful +pace; but I looked back once and saw, standing in the road near the +bushes, five timber wolves, evidently watching us. Just where the +other two had been I will never know, of course. + +We have ridden and driven up that road many, many times, and I have +often ridden through those rosebushes, but have never seen wolves or +coyotes. Down in the lowland on the other side of the post we +frequently see a coyote that will greet us with the most unearthly +howls, and will sometimes follow carriages, howling all the time. But +everyone looks upon him as a pet. Those big, gray timber wolves are +quite another animal, fierce and savage. Some one asked me why I +screamed, but I could not tell why. Perhaps it was to urge the +horse--perhaps to frighten the wolf--perhaps to relieve the strain on +my nerves. Possibly it was just because I was frightened and could not +help it! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +May, 1888. + +SUCH upheaval orders have been coming to the post the past few days, +some of us wonder if there has not been an earthquake, and can only +sit around and wait in a numb sort of way for whatever may come next. + +General Bourke, who has been colonel of the regiment, you know, has +been appointed a brigadier general and is to command the Department of +the Platte, with headquarters at Omaha, Nebraska. This might have +affected Faye under any circumstances, as a new colonel has the +privilege of selecting his own staff officers, but General Bourke, as +soon as he received the telegram telling of his appointment, told Faye +that he should ask for him as aide-de-camp. This will take us to +Omaha, also, and I am almost heartbroken over it, as it will be a +wretched life for me--cooped up in a noisy city! At the same time I am +delighted that Faye will have for four years the fine staff position. +These appointments are complimentary, and considered most desirable. + +The real stir-up, however, came with orders for the regiment to go to +Fort Snelling, Minnesota, for that affects about everyone here. +Colonel Munson, who relieves General Bourke as colonel of the +regiment, is in St. Paul, and is well known as inspector general of +this department, which perhaps is not the most flattering introduction +he could have had to his new regiment. He telegraphed, as soon as +promoted, that he desired Faye to continue as adjutant, but of course +to be on the staff of a general is far in advance of being on the +staff of a colonel. The colonel commands only his own +regiment--sometimes not all of that, as when companies are stationed +at other posts than headquarters--whereas a brigadier general has +command of a department consisting of many army posts and many +regiments. + +The one thing that distresses me most of all is, that I have to part +from my horse! This is what makes me so rebellious, for aside from my +own personal loss, I have great sorrow for the poor dumb animal that +will suffer so much with strangers who will not understand him. No one +has ridden or driven him for two years but myself, and he has been +tractable and lovable always. During very cold weather, when perhaps +he would be too frisky, I have allowed him to play in the yard back of +the house, until all superfluous spirits had been kicked and snorted +off, after which I could have a ride in peace and safety. Faye thinks +that he is entirely too nervous ever to take kindly to city sights and +sounds--that the fretting and the heat might kill him. + +So it has been decided that once again we will sell everything--both +horses and all things pertaining to them, reserving our saddles only. +Every piece of furniture will be sold, also, as we do not purpose to +keep house at all while in Omaha. How I envy our friends who will go +to Fort Snelling! We have always been told that it is such a beautiful +post, and the people of St. Paul and Minneapolis are most charming. It +seems so funny that the regiment should be sent to Snelling just as +Colonel Munson was promoted to it. He will have to move six miles +only! + +We know that when we leave Fort Shaw we will go from the old army life +of the West--that if we ever come back, it will be to unfamiliar +scenes and a new condition of things. We have seen the passing of the +buffalo and other game, and the Indian seems to be passing also. But I +must confess that I have no regret for the Indians--there are still +too many of them! + +FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, +May, 1888. + +THERE can be only two more days at this dear old post, where we have +been so happy, and I want those to pass as quickly as possible, and +have some of the misery over. Our house is perfectly forlorn, with +just a few absolute necessaries in it for our use while here. +Everything has been sold or given away, and all that is left to us are +our trunks and army chests. Some fine china and a few pieces of cut +glass I kept, and even those are packed in small boxes and in the +chests. + +The general selling-out business has been funny. No one in the +regiment possessed many things that they cared to move East with them, +and as we did not desire to turn our houses into second-hand shops, +where people could handle and make remarks about things we had +treasured, it was decided that everything to be sold should be moved +to the large hall, where enlisted men could attend to the shop +business. Our only purchasers were people from Sun River Crossing, and +a few ranches that are some distance from the post, and it was soon +discovered that anything at all nice was passed by them, so we became +sharp--bunching the worthless with the good--and that worked +beautifully and things sold fast. + +These moves are of the greatest importance to army officers, and many +times the change of station is a mere nothing in comparison to the +refitting of a house, something that is never taken into consideration +when the pay of the Army is under discussion. The regiment has been on +the frontier ten years, and everything that we had that was at all +nice had been sent up from St. Paul at great expense, or purchased in +Helena at an exorbitant price. All those things have been disposed of +for almost nothing, and when the regiment reaches Fort Snelling, where +larger quarters have to be furnished for an almost city life, the +officers will be at great expense. Why I am bothering about Snelling I +fail to see, as we are not going there, and I certainly have enough +troubles of my Own to think about. + +This very morning, Mrs. Ames, of Sun River Crossing, who now owns dear +Rollo, came up to ask me to show her how to drive him! Just think of +that! She talked as though she had been deceived--that it was my duty +to show her the trick by which I had managed to control the horse, +and, naturally, it would be a delightful pleasure to me to be allowed +to drive him once more, and so on. Mrs. Ames said that yesterday she +started out with him, intending to come to the post to let me see +him--fancy the delicate feeling expressed in that--but the horse went +so fast she became frightened, for it seemed as though the telegraph +poles were only a foot apart. She finally got the horse turned around +and drove back home, when her husband got in and undertook to drive +him, but with no better success; but he, too, started the horse toward +his old home. + +Mr. Ames then told her to have Rollo put back in the stable until she +could get me to show her how to drive him. I almost cried out from +pure pity for the poor dumb beast that I knew was suffering so in his +longing for his old home and friends who understood him. But for the +horse's sake I tried not to break down. I told her that first of all +she must teach the horse to love her. That was an awfully hard thing +to say, I assure you, and I doubt if the woman understood my meaning +after all. When I told her not to pull on his mouth she looked amazed, +and said, "Why, he would run away with me if I didn't!" But I assured +her that he would not--that he had been taught differently--that he +was very nervous and spirited--that the harder she pulled the more +excited he would become--that I had simply held him steady, no more. I +saw that Mrs. Ames did not believe one word that I had said, but I +tried to convince her, for the sake of the unhappy animal that had +been placed at her mercy. + +I have often met and passed her out on the road, and the horse she +drives is a large, handsome animal, and we had supposed that she was a +good whip; so, when Mr. Ames appeared the other day and said his wife +had asked him to come up and buy the sorrel horse for her we were +delighted that such a good home had been found for him--and for Fannie +too. Mr. Ames bought the entire outfit. Fannie is beautiful, but +wholly lacking in affection, and can take care of herself any place. + +All sorts of people have been here for the horses--some wanted both, +others only one--but Faye would not let them go to any of them, as he +was afraid they would not have the best of care. Rollo had been gone +only an hour or so when a young man--a typical bronco breaker--came to +buy him, and seemed really distressed because he had been sold. He +said that he had broken him when a colt at Mr. Vaughn's. It so +happened that Faye was at the adjutant's office, and the man asked for +me. I was very glad, for I had always wanted to meet the person who +had slammed the saddle first on Rollo's back. I told him that it was +generally considered at the post that I had broken the horse! I said +that he had been made cruelly afraid of a saddle, and for a long time +after we had bought him, he objected to it and to being mounted, and I +did not consider a horse broken that would do those things. I said +also, that the horse had not been gaited. He interrupted with, "Why, +he's a pacer"--just as though that settled everything; but I told him +that Rollo had three perfectly trained grades of speed, each one of +which I had taught him. + +The young man's face became very red and he looked angry, but I had a +beautiful time. It was such a relief to express my opinion to the man +just at that time, too, when I was grieving so for the horse. I saw at +once that he was a bronco breaker from his style of dress. He had on +boots of very fine leather with enormously high heels, and strapped to +them were large, sharp-pointed Mexican spurs. His trousers were of +leather and very broad at the bottom, and all down the front and +outside was some kind of gray fur--"chaps" this article of dress is +called--and in one hand he held a closely plaited, stinging black +"quirt." He wore a plaid shirt and cotton handkerchief around his +neck. That describes the man who rode Rollo first--and no wonder the +spirited, high-strung colt was suspicious of saddles, men, and things. +I watched the man as he rode away. His horse was going at a furious +gallop, with ears turned back, as if expecting whip or spur any +instant, and the man sat far over on one side, that leg quite straight +as though he was standing in the long stirrup, and the other was +resting far up on the saddle--which was of the heavy Mexican make, +with enormous flaps, and high, round pommel in front. I am most +thankful that Rollo has gone beyond that man's reach, as everything +about him told of cruelty to horses. + +Yet, Mrs. Ames seemed such a cold woman--so incapable of understanding +or appreciating the affection of a dumb animal. During the years we +owned Rollo he was struck with the whip only once--the time I wanted +him to run down a wolf up the river. + +The Great Northern Railroad runs very near Fort Shaw now--about twenty +miles, I think--and, that will make it convenient for the moving of +the regiment, and all of us, in fact. We will go to St. Paul on the +special train with the regiment, for Faye will not be relieved as +adjutant until he reaches Fort Snelling, where we will remain for a +day or two. It will be a sad trip for me, for I love the West and life +at a Western post, and the vanities of city life do not seem +attractive to me--and I shall miss my army friends, too! + +Perhaps it is a small matter to mention, but since I have been with +the Army I have ridden twenty-two horses that had never been ridden by +a woman before! As I still recollect the gait and disposition of each +horse, it seems of some consequence to me, for unbroken as some were, +I was never unseated--not once! + +THE PAXTON HOTEL, OMAHA, NEBRASKA, +August, 1888. + +ALMOST five weeks have passed since we left dear Fort Shaw! During +that time we have become more or less accustomed to the restrictions +of a small city, but I fancy that I am not the only one of the party +from Montana who sometimes sighs for the Rocky Mountains and the old +garrison life. Here we are not of the Army--neither are we citizens. +General and Mrs. Bourke are still dazzled by the brilliancy of the new +silver star on the general's shoulder straps, and can still smile. +Faye says very little, but I know that he often frets over his present +monotonous duties and yearns for the regiment, his duties as adjutant +of the regiment, the parades, drills, and outdoor life generally, that +make life so pleasant at a frontier post. + +Department Headquarters is in a government building down by the river, +and the offices are most cheerless. All the officers wear civilian +clothes, and there is not one scrap of uniform to be seen any +place--nothing whatever to tell one "who is who," from the department +commander down to Delaney, the old Irish messenger! Each one sits at +his desk and busies himself over the many neatly tied packages of +official papers upon it, and tries to make the world believe that he +is happy--but there are confidential talks, when it is admitted that +life is dreary--the regiment the only place for an energetic officer, +and so on. Yet not one of those officers could be induced to give up +his detail, for it is always such a compliment to be selected from the +many for duty at headquarters. Faye and Lieutenant Travis are on the +general's personal staff, the others belong to the department. Just +now, Faye is away with the department commander, who is making an +official tour of inspection through his new department, which is +large, and includes some fine posts. It is known as "The Department of +the Platte." + +Everyone has been most hospitable--particularly the army people at +Fort Omaha--a post just beyond the city limits. Mrs. Wheeler, wife of +the colonel in command, gave a dancing reception very soon after we +got here, and an elegant dinner a little later on--both for the new +brigadier general and his staff. Mrs. Foster, the handsome wife of the +lieutenant colonel, gave a beautiful luncheon, and the officers of the +regiment gave a dance that was pleasant. But their orchestra is far +from being as fine as ours. In the city there have been afternoon and +evening receptions, and several luncheons, the most charming luncheon +of all having been the one given by my friend, Mrs. Schuyler, at the +Union Club. One afternoon each week the club rooms are at the disposal +of the wives of its members, and so popular is this way of +entertaining, the rooms are usually engaged weeks in advance. The +service is really perfect, and the rooms airy and delightfully +cool--and cool rooms are great treasures in this hot place. + +The heat has been almost unbearable to us from the mountains, and one +morning I nearly collapsed while having things "fitted" in the stuffy +rooms of a dressmaker. Many of these nouveaux riches dress elegantly, +and their jewels are splendid. All the women here have such white +skins, and by comparison I must look like a Mexican, my face is so +brown from years of exposure to dry, burning winds. Of course there +has been much shopping to do, and for a time it was so confusing--to +have to select things from a counter, with a shop girl staring at me, +or perhaps insisting upon my purchasing articles I did not want. For +years we had shopped from catalogues, and it was a nice quiet way, +too. Parasols have bothered me. I would forget to open them in the +street, and would invariably leave them in the stores when shopping, +and then have to go about looking them up. But this is the first +summer I have been East in nine years, and it is not surprising that +parasols and things mix me up at times. + +Faye has a beautiful saddle horse--his gait a natural single foot--and +I sometimes ride him, but most of my outings are on the electric cars. +I might as well be on them, since I have to hear their buzz and clang +both day and night from our rooms here in the hotel. The other +morning, as I was returning from a ride across the river to Council +Bluffs, I heard the shrill notes of a calliope that reminded me that +Forepaugh's circus was to be in town that day, and that I had promised +to go to the afternoon performance with a party of friends. But soon +there were other sounds and other thoughts. Above the noise of the car +I heard a brass band--and there could be no mistake--it was playing +strong and full one of Sousa's marches, "The March Past of the Rifle +Regiment"--a march that was written for Faye while he was adjutant of +the regiment, and "Dedicated to the officers and enlisted men" of the +regiment. For almost three years that one particular march had been +the review march of the regiment--that is, it had been played always +whenever the regiment had passed in review before the colonel, +inspector general of the department, or any official of sufficient +rank and authority to review the troops. + +The car seemed to go miles before it came to a place where I could get +off. Every second was most precious and I jumped down while it was +still in motion, receiving a scathing rebuke from the conductor for +doing so. I almost ran until I got to the walk nearest the band, where +I tagged along with boys, both big and small. The march was played for +some time, and no one could possibly imagine, how those familiar +strains thrilled me. But there was an ever-increasing feeling of +indignation that a tawdry coated circus band, sitting in a gilded +wagon, should presume to play that march, which seemed to belong +exclusively to the regiment, and to be associated only with scenes of +ceremony and great dignity. + +The circus men played the piece remarkably well, however, and when it +was stopped I came back to the hotel to think matters over and have a +heart-to-heart talk with myself. Of course I am more than proud that +Faye is an aide-de-camp, and would not have things different from what +they are, but the detail is for four years, and the thought of living +in this unattractive place that length of time is crushing. But Faye +will undoubtedly have his captaincy by the expiration of the four +years, and the anticipation of that is comforting. It is the feeling +of loneliness I mind here--of being lost and no one to search for me. +I miss the cheery garrison life--the delightful rides, and it may +sound funny, but I miss also the little church choir that finally +became a joy to me. Sergeant Graves is now leader of the regimental +band at Fort Snelling, and Matijicek is in New York, a member of the +Damrosch orchestra. It is still something to wonder over that I should +have been on a street car that carried me to a circus parade at the +precise time the Review March was being played! It seems quite as +marvelous as my having been seated at a supper table in a far-away +ranch in Montana, the very night a number of horse breakers were +there, also at the table, and one of them "put up" Rollo and me to his +friends. I shall never forget how queer I felt when I heard myself +discussed by perfect strangers in my very presence--not one of whom +knew in the least who I was. It made me think that perhaps I was +shadowy--invisible--although to myself I did not feel at all that way. + +Faye wrote to Mr. Ames about Rollo, thinking that possibly he might +buy him back, but Mr. Ames wrote in reply that Rollo had already been +sold, because Mrs. Ames had found it impossible to manage him. Also +that he was owned by the post trader at Fort Maginnis, who was making +a pet of him. So, as the horse had a good home and gentle treatment, +it was once more decided to leave him up in his native mountains. It +might have been cruel to have brought him here to suffer from the +heat, and to be frightened and ever fretted by the many strange sights +and sounds. But I am not satisfied, for the horse had an awful fear of +men when ridden or driven by them, and I know that he is so unhappy +and wonders why I no longer come to him, and why I do not take him +from the strange people who do not understand him. He was a +wonderfully playful animal, and sometimes when Miller would be leading +the two horses from our yard to the corral, he would turn Rollo loose +for a run. That always brought out a number of soldiers to see him +rear, lunge, and snort; his turns so quick, his beautiful tawny mane +would be tossed from side to side and over his face until he looked +like a wild horse. The more the men laughed the wilder he seemed to +get. He never forgot Miller, however, but would be at the corral by +the time he got there, and would go to his own stall quietly and +without guidance. Poor Rollo! + +CAMP NEAR UINTAH MOUNTAINS, WYOMING TERRITORY, +August, 1888. + +TO be back in the mountains and in camp is simply glorious! And to see +soldiers walking around, wearing the dear old uniform, just as we used +to see them, makes one feel as though old days had returned. The two +colored men--chef and butler--rather destroy the technique of a +military camp, but they seem to be necessary adjuncts; and besides, we +are not striving for harmony and effect, but for a fine outing, each +day to be complete with its own pleasures. It was a novel experience +to come to the mountains in a private car! The camp is very complete, +as the camp of a department commander should be, and we have +everything for our comfort. We are fourteen miles from the Union +Pacific Railroad and six from Fort Bridger, from which post our tents +and supplies came. Our ice is sent from there, also, and of course the +enlisted men are from that garrison. + +The party consists of General and Mrs. Bourke, Mrs. Hall, Mrs. +Bourke's sister, Mrs. Ord of Omaha, General Stanley, paymaster, +Captain Rives, judge advocate--both of the department +staff--Lieutenant Travis, junior aide-de-camp, Faye, and myself. Mrs. +Ord is a pretty woman, always wears dainty gowns, and is a favorite +with Omaha society people. I know her very well, still I hesitated +about wearing my short-skirted outing suit, fearing it would shock +her. But a day or two after we got here she said to me, "What are we +to do about those fish, Mrs. Rae? I always catch the most fish +wherever I go, but I hear that you are successful also!" + +So with high spirits we started out by ourselves that very morning, +everyone laughing and betting on our number of fish as we left camp. I +wore the short skirt, but Mrs. Ord had her skirts pinned so high I +felt that a tuck or two should be taken in mine, to save her from +embarrassment. The fishing is excellent here and each one had every +confidence in her own good luck, for the morning was perfect for trout +fishing. Once I missed Mrs. Ord, and pushing some bushes back where I +thought she might be, I saw a most comical sight. Lying flat on the +ground, hat pushed back, and eyes peering over the bank of the stream, +was Mrs. Ord, the society woman! I could not help laughing--she was so +ridiculous in that position, which the pinned-up dress made even more +funny--but she did not like it, and looking at me most reproachfully +said, "You have frightened him away, and I almost had him." She had +been in that position a long time, she said, waiting for a large trout +to take her hook. The race for honors was about even that day, and +there was no cause for envy on either side, for neither Mrs. Ord nor I +caught one fish! + +Our camp is near Smith's fork of Snake River, and not far from the +camp is another fork that never has fish in it--so everyone tells us. +That seemed so strange, for both streams have the same water from the +stream above, and the same rocky beds. One day I thought I would try +the stream, as Smith's fork was so muddy we could not fish in that. +There had been a storm up in the mountains that had caused both +streams to rise, so I caught some grasshoppers to bait with, as it +would be useless, of course, to try flies. I walked along the banks of +the swollen stream until I saw a place where I thought there should be +a trout, and to that little place the grasshopper was cast, when snap! +went my leader. I put on another hook and another grasshopper, but the +result was precisely the same, so I concluded there must be a snag +there, although I had supposed that I knew a fish from a snag! I tried +one or two other places, but there was no variation--and each time I +lost a leader and hook. + +In the meantime a party had come over from camp, Faye among them, and +there had been much good advice given me--and each one had told me +that there were no fish ever in that stream; then they went on up and +sat down on the bank under some trees. I was very cross, for it was +not pleasant to be laughed at, particularly by women who had probably +never had a rod in their hands. And I felt positive that it had been +fish that had carried off my hooks, and I was determined to ascertain +what was the matter. So I went back to our tent and got a very long +leader, which I doubled a number of times. I knew that the thickness +would not frighten the fish, as the water was so cloudy. I fixed a +strong hook to that, upon which was a fine grasshopper, and going to +one of the places where my friends said I had been "snagged," I cast +it over, and away it all went, which proved that I had caught +something that could at least act like a fish. I reeled it in, and in +time landed the thing--a splendid large trout! My very first thought +was of those disagreeable people who had laughed at me--Faye first of +all. So after them I went, carrying the fish, which gained in weight +with every step. Their surprise was great, and I could see that Faye +was delighted. He carried the trout to camp for me, and I went with +him, for I was very tired. + +The next morning I went to that stream again, taking with me a book of +all sorts of flies and some grasshoppers. The department commander +went over also. He asked me to show him where I had lost the hooks, +but I said, "If you fish in those places you will be laughed at more +than I was yesterday." He understood, and went farther down. The water +was much more clear, but still flies could not be seen, so I used the +scorned grasshopper. In about two hours I caught sixteen beautiful +trout, which weighed, en masse, a little over twenty-five pounds! I +cast in the very places where I had lost hooks, and almost every time +caught a fish. I left them in the shade in various places along the +stream, and Faye and a soldier brought them to camp. A fine display +they made, spread out on the grass, for they seemed precisely the same +size. + +The general caught two large and several small trout--those were all +that day. It was most remarkable that I should have found the only +good places in the stream at a time when the water was not clear. Not +only the right places, but the one right day, for not one trout has +been caught there since. Perhaps with the high water the fish came up +from Snake River, although trout are supposed to live in clear water. +We can dispose of any number of birds and fish here, for those that +are not needed for our own large mess can be given to the soldiers, +and we often send chicken and trout to our friends at Fort Bridger. +The farther one goes up the stream the better the fishing is--that is, +the fish are more plentiful, but not as large as they are here. + +About sixteen miles up--almost in the mountains--was General Crook's +favorite fishing ground, and when he was in command of the department +he and General Stanley, who also is an expert fisherman, came here +many times, consequently General Stanley is familiar with the country +about here. The evening after my splendid catch, General Stanley said +that he would like to have Mrs. Ord and me go with him up the stream +several miles, and asked if I would be willing to give Mrs. Ord the +stream, as she had never used a fly, adding that she seemed a little +piqued because I had caught such fine fish. I said at once that I +would be delighted to give her the lead, although I knew, of course, +that whoever goes second in a trout stream has very poor sport. But +the request was a compliment, and besides, I had caught enough fish +for a while. + +The next day we made preparations, and early on the morning of the +second we started. The department commander had gone to Omaha on +official business, so he was not with us, and Faye did not go; but the +rest of the party went twelve miles and then established a little camp +for the day, and there we left them. Mrs. Ord and I and General +Stanley, with a driver, got on a buckboard drawn by two mules, and +went five miles farther up the stream, until, in fact, it was +impossible for even a buckboard to go along the rocky trail. There we +were expected to take the stream, and as soon as we left the wagon, +Mrs. Ord and I retired to some bushes to prepare for the water. I had +taken the "tuck" in my outing skirt, so there was not much for me to +do; but Mrs. Ord pulled up and pinned up her serge skirt in a way that +would have brought a small fortune to a cartoonist. When we came from +the bushes, rods in hand, the soldier driver gave one bewildered +stare, and then almost fell from his seat. He was too respectful to +laugh outright and thus relieve his spasms, but he would look at us +from the side of his eye, turn his face from us and fairly double +over--then another quick look, and another double down again. Mrs. Ord +laughed, and so did I. She is quite stout and I am very thin, and I +suppose the soldier did see funny things about us. We saw them +ourselves. + +I shall never forget my first step in that water! It was as chilling +as if it had been running over miles of ice, and by comparison the +August sun seemed fiery; but these things were soon forgotten, for at +once the excitement of casting a fly began. It is almost as much +pleasure to put a little fly just where you want it, as it is to catch +the fish. My rod and reel were in perfect condition--Faye had seen to +that--and my book of flies was complete, and with charming companions +and a stream full of trout, a day of unusual pleasure was assured. We +were obliged to wade every step, as the banks of the stream had walls +of boulders and thick bushes. Most of the stream was not very deep, +but was a foamy, roaring torrent, rushing over the small rocks and +around the large ones, with little, still, dark places along the +banks--ideal homes for the mountain trout. We found a few deep pools +that looked most harmless, but the current in them was swift and +dangerous to those who could not always keep their balance. It was +most difficult for me to walk on the slippery stones at first, and I +had many a fall; but Mrs. Ord, being heavy, avoided upsets very +nicely. At times we would be in water above our waists, and then Mrs. +Ord and I would fall back with General Stanley for protection, who +alternately praised and laughed at us during the whole day. Mrs. Ord +was very quick to learn where and how to cast a fly, and I was +delighted to let General Stanley see that grasshoppers were not at all +necessary to my success in fishing. + +We sat upon a big, flat rock at luncheon, and were thankful that +General Stanley was a tall man and could keep the box of sandwiches +from getting wet. When we toppled over he always came to our +assistance, so at times his wading boots were not of much use to him. +Mrs. Ord was far ahead of me in number of fish, and General Stanley +said that I had better keep up with her, if I wished. The stream had +broadened out some, so finally Mrs. Ord whipped the left side, which +is easier casting, and I whipped the right. We waded down the entire +five miles, and Mrs. Ord, who had the stream most of the time, caught +sixty-four trout and I caught fifty-six, and General Stanley picked up +fourteen, after our splashing and frightening away the fish we did not +catch. The trout were small, but wonderfully full of fight in that +cold water. Of course General Stanley carried them for us. The driver +had been ordered to keep within call on the trail, as General Stanley +thought it would be impossible for Mrs. Ord and me to wade the five +miles; but the distance seemed short to us; we never once thought of +being tired, and it was with great regret we reeled in our lines. + +There was a beaver dam above the picnic camp, and before we came to it +I happened to get near the bank, where I saw in the mud the impression +of a huge paw. It was larger than a tea plate, and was so fresh one +could easily see where the nails had been. I asked General Stanley to +look at it, but he said, "That? oh, that is only the paw of a cub--he +has been down after fish." At once I discovered that the middle of the +stream was most attractive, and there I went, and carefully remained +there the rest of the way down. If the paw of a mere "cub" could be +that enormous size, what might not be the size of an ordinary grown-up +bear, paws included! Mrs. Ord declared that she rather liked little +bears--they were so cunning and playful--but I noticed she avoided the +banks, also. + +We had left dry clothing at the small camp, and when we returned we +found nice little retreats all ready for us, made of cloaks and +things, in among the boulders and bushes. There were cups of delicious +hot tea, too; but we were not cold, and the most astonishing thing +about that whole grand day is, we did not feel stiff or the slightest +discomfort in any form after it. The tramp was long and the water +cold, and my own baths many. I might have saved myself, sometimes, +from going all the way down had I not been afraid of breaking my rod, +which I always held high when I fell. The day was one to be remembered +by Mrs. Ord and me. We had thought all the time that General Stanley +was making a great sacrifice by giving up a day's sport for our +amusement, and that it was so kind of him, for, of course he could not +be enjoying the day; but it seems that he had sport of which we knew +nothing until the following day--in fact, we know nothing about it +yet! But he began to tell the most absurd stories of what we did, and +we must have done many unusual things, for he is still entertaining +the camp with them. He was very proud of us, nevertheless, and says so +often. The ride of twelve miles back to camp seemed endless, for as +soon as the excitement of the stream was over we found that we were +tired--awfully tired. + +We have only a few weeks more of this delightful life. The hunting is +excellent, too, and Faye and Captain Rives often bring in large bags +of mountain grouse and young sage hens. The sage chicken are as tender +and delicious as partridge before they begin to feed upon wild sage in +the fall, but one short day in the brush makes them different birds +and wholly unpalatable. We often send birds, and fish also, to friends +at Fort Bridger, who were most hospitable the day we arrived, and +before coming to camp. + +I had quite forgotten the wedding yesterday! It was at Fort Bridger, +and the bride, a daughter of the post trader, is related to several +families of social position at Omaha. We put on the very prettiest +gowns we had with us, but the effect was disappointing, for our red +faces looked redder than ever above delicate laces and silks. The +ceremony was at noon--was very pretty--and everything passed off +beautifully. The breakfast was delicious, and we wondered at the +dainty dishes served so far from a caterer. The house was not large, +and every bit of air had been shut out by darkening the windows, but +we were spared the heat and smell of lamps on the hot day by the rooms +being lighted by hundreds of candles, each one with a pretty white +shade. But some of us felt smothered, and as soon as the affair was +over, started immediately for the camp, where we could have +exhilarating mountain air once more. + +It was really one whole day stolen from our outing! We can always have +crowded rooms, receptions, and breakfasts, wherever we happen to be in +the East, but when again will we be in a glorious camp like this--and +our days here are to be so few! From here we are to go to Salt Lake +City for a week or two. + +THE WALKER HOUSE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. +September, 1888. + +THE weather is still very warm, but not hot enough to keep us from +going to the lake as usual this morning. The ride is about eighteen +miles long, and is always more or less pleasant. The cars, often long +trains, are narrow gauge, open, and airy. The bathing is delightful, +but wholly unlike anything to be found elsewhere. The wonderfully +clear water is cool and exhilarating, but to swim in it is impossible, +it is so heavy from its large percentage of salt. So every one floats, +but not at all as one floats in other waters. We lie upon our backs, +of course--at least we think we do--but our feet are always out of the +water, and our heads straight up, with large straw hats upon them. + +They have a way of forming human chains on the water that often +startles one at first. They are made by hooking one's arms close to +the shoulder over the ankles of another person, still another body +hooking on to you, and so on. Then each one will stretch his or her +arms out and paddle backward, and in this way we can go about without +much effort, and can see all the funny things going on around us. As I +am rather tall, second position in a chain is almost always given to +me, and my first acquaintance with masculine toes close to my face +came very near being disastrous. The feet stood straight up, and the +toes looked so very funny, with now and then a twitch back or front, +that soon I wanted to laugh, and the more I tried not to the more +hysterical I became. My shoulders were shaking, and the owner of the +toes--a pompous man--began to suspect that I was laughing and probably +at the toes. Still he continued to twist them around--one under the +other--in an astonishing way, that made them fascinating. The head of +the chain--the pompous man--became ominously silent. At last I said, +almost sobbing, "Can't you see for yourself how funny all those things +are in front of us? They look like wings in their pin-feather +stage--only they are on the wrong side--and I am wondering if the +black stockings would make real black wings--and what some of us would +do with them, after all!" After that there was less pompous dignity +and less hysteria, although the toes continued to wigwag. + +It is a sight that repays one to watch, when dozens of these +chains--some long, some short--are paddling about on the blue water +that is often without a ripple. It is impossible to drown, for sink in +it you cannot, but to get the brine in one's nose and throat is +dangerous, as it easily causes strangulation, particularly if the +person is at all nervous. We wear little bits of cotton in our ears to +prevent the water from getting in, for the crust of salt it would +leave might cause intense pain. + +Bathing in water so salt makes one both hungry and sleepy, therefore +it is considered quite the correct thing to eat hot popcorn, and +snooze on the return trip. We get the popcorn at the pavilion, put up +in attractive little bags, and it is always crisp and delicious. Just +imagine a long open car full of people, each man, woman, and child +greedily munching the tender corn! By the time one bag full has been +eaten, heads begin to wobble, and soon there is a "Land of Nod"--real +nod, too. Some days, when the air is particularly soft and balmy, +everyone in the car will be oblivious of his whereabouts. Not one stop +is made from the lake to the city. + +Faye and I were at the lake almost a week--Garfield Beach the bathing +place is called---so I could make a few water-color drawings early in +the morning, when the tints on the water are so pearly and exquisitely +delicate. During the day the lake is usually a wonderful blue--deep +and brilliant--and the colors at sunset are past description. The sun +disappears back of the Oquirah Mountains in a world of glorious yellow +and orange, and as twilight comes on, the mountains take on violet and +purple shades that become deeper and deeper, until night covers all +from sight. + +There was not a vacant room at Garfield Beach, so they gave us two +large rooms at Black Rock--almost one mile away, but on the car line. +The rooms were in a low, long building, that might easily be mistaken +for soldiers' barracks, and which had broad verandas with low roofs +all along both sides. That queer building had been built by Brigham +Young for his seven wives! It consisted of seven apartments of two +rooms each, a sitting room and sleeping room; all the sitting rooms +were on one side, opening out upon the one veranda, and the bedrooms +were on the other side and opened out upon the other veranda. These +apartments did not connect in any way, except by the two porches. Not +far from that building was another that had once been the dining room +and kitchen of the seven wives. These mormon women must be simply +idiotic, or have their tempers under good control! + +It was all most interesting and a remarkable experience to have lived +in one of Brigham Young's very own houses. But the place was +ghostly--lonesome beyond everything--and when the wind moaned and +sighed through the rooms one could fancy it was the wailing of the +spirits of those seven wretched wives. When we returned at night to +the dark, unoccupied building, it seemed more spooky than ever, after +the music and light at Garfield Beach. Our meals were served to us at +the restaurant at the pavilion. I made some very good sketches of the +lake, Antelope Island, and a number of the wonderful Black Rock that +is out in the lake opposite the Brigham Young house. + +About two miles from the city, and upon the side of the Wasatch +Mountains, is Camp Douglas, an army post, which the new department +commander came to inspect. The inspection was in the morning, and we +all went to see it, and were driven in the post with the booming of +cannon--the salute always given a brigadier general when he enters a +post officially. It was pretty to see the general's wife partly cover +her ears, and pretend that she did not like the noise, when all the +time her eyes were sparkling, and we knew that every roar of the big +guns added to her pride. If all those guns had been for Faye I could +never have stayed in the ambulance. + +It is charming up there--in the post--and the view is magnificent. We +sat out on a vine-covered porch during the inspection, and watched the +troops and the review. It made me so happy, and yet so homesick, too, +to see Faye once more in his uniform. The inspection was all too +short, and after it was over, many officers and their wives came to +call upon us, when wine and delicious cake was served. We were at the +quarters of the colonel and post commander. That was the second post +we had taken Mrs. Ord to, and she is suddenly enthusiastic over army +people, forgetting that Omaha has a post of its own. But with us she +has been in the tail of the comet--which made things more interesting. +Army people are nice, though, particularly in their own little +garrison homes. + +There is only one mormon store here, and that is very large and +cooperative. Every mormon who has anything whatever to sell is +compelled to take it to that store to be appraised, and a percentage +taken from it. There are a few nice gentile shops, but mormons cannot +enter them; they can purchase only at the mormon store, where the +gentiles are ever cordially welcomed also. Splendid fruit and +vegetables are grown in this valley--especially the fruit, which is +superior to any we ever saw. The grapes are of many varieties, each +one large and rich with flavor, and the peaches and big yellow pears +are most luscious. Upon our table down in the dining room there is +always an immense glass bowl of selected fruit--peaches, pears, and +grapes, and each time we go down it seems to look more attractive. + +We have been to see the tabernacle, with its marvelous acoustic +properties, and the temple, which is not yet finished. The immense +pipe organ in the tabernacle was built where it now stands, and +entirely by mormons. From Brigham Young's old home a grand boulevard +runs, through the city, across the valley, and over the hill far away, +and how much beyond I do not know. This road, so broad and white, +Brigham Young said would lead to Jerusalem. They have a river Jordan +here, too, a little stream that runs just outside the city. + +There are grand trees in every street, and every old yard, and one +cannot help feeling great indignation to see where in some places the +incoming gentiles have cut trees down to make space for modern showy +buildings, that are so wholly out of harmony with the low, artistic +white houses and vine-covered walls. It is such a pity that these +high, red buildings could not have been kept outside, and the old +mormon city left in its original quaint beauty. + +We will return to Omaha soon now, and I shall at once become busy with +preparations for the winter East. I have decided to go home in +October, so I can have a long, comfortable visit before going to +Washington. Faye wishes me to join him there the last of December. I +am not very enthusiastic over the prospect of crowded rooms, daily +receptions and "teas," and other affairs of more formality. But since +I cannot return to the plains, I might as well go to the city, where +we will meet people of culture, see the fascinating Diplomatic Corps, +and be presented to the President's beautiful young wife. Later on +there will be the inauguration--for we expect to pass the winter in +Washington. + +THE END + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Army Letters from an Officer's Wife, +1871-1888, by Frances M.A. Roe + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARMY LETTERS FROM AN OFFICER'S WIFE *** + +This file should be named rmlfw10.txt or rmlfw10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, rmlfw11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, rmlfw10a.txt + +Scanned by Dianne Bean, Prescott Valley, AZ. + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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