diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/67507-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/67507-0.txt | 13657 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 13657 deletions
diff --git a/old/67507-0.txt b/old/67507-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 984cc00..0000000 --- a/old/67507-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13657 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cheating the Junk-Pile, by Ethel R. -Peyser - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Cheating the Junk-Pile - The Purchase and Maintenance of Household Equipments - -Author: Ethel R. Peyser - -Illustrator: Harry Richardson - -Contributor: Richardson Wright - -Release Date: February 26, 2022 [eBook #67507] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE *** - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - Texts printed in italics in the source document have been transcribed - _between underscores_. Small capitals have been replaced with ALL - CAPITALS. - - More Transcriber’s Notes may be found at the end of this text. - - - - -CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE - - - - - Cheating the Junk-Pile - - THE PURCHASE AND MAINTENANCE - OF HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENTS - - BY - ETHEL R. PEYSER - - WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY - RICHARDSON WRIGHT - Editor of “House and Garden Magazine” - - Illustrated by drawings by - HARRY RICHARDSON - and by photographs - - [Illustration] - - NEW YORK - E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY - 681 FIFTH AVENUE - - - - - Copyright, 1922, - BY E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY - - _All Rights Reserved_ - - PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Central Oil and Gas Stove Company_ - -BUNGALOW AND PALACE CAN BE FED WITH THE NEWER OIL RANGES WITH PLENTY OF -SPACE AND OVENS] - - - - - To - “HOME AND MOTHER” - The Experience of Both has - Made this Collection Possible - - - - -ACKNOWLEDGMENTS - - -This book cannot go on its way without acknowledging Richardson Wright, -Editor of _House and Garden Magazine_, at whose request the chapters -were written, as the source of it and as the stimulus to the gathering -of the material. I also want to acknowledge the unflagging services of -Celia Arbeit, his secretary, who at every point helped in collating the -straying text and furtive photographs. - -I must not forget the manufacturers, who have supplied me with -information, illustration, and enthusiasm, and also the several experts -who were philanthropic enough to read every chapter (before they came -out in _House and Garden_) to eradicate any technical or scientific -anachronism that might have lurked therein. To all these and others who -have helped I am very grateful. - - E. R. P. - - New York City - August 1922 - - - - -AUTHOR’S FOREWORD - - -Ignorant buying is the junk-pile’s subsistence. - -This book is in no way intended to be a book on household efficiency, in -the usual sense of the word--it is no religio-culinaris, no domestic -Baedecker or home Taylor. It is merely meant to be a means to the -purchase and care of the best household equipments and to be an -instruction _before_ not after the purchase is made. Further, it is -meant to cheat the junk-pile, by inspiring the buyer to get the maximum -advantage out of every purchase of the thing he buys and by the proper -care of it after he gets it. It is a book which conspires against the -aspiring junk heap in the yard or in the store-room. - -There is so much in the market to-day in the way of household equipments -and devices, that a book like this is necessary to give the home-keeper -as much of an idea as to what to _eliminate_ as to what to choose. It is -necessary, too, to give the home-keeper an idea of the maintenance of -what she has elected to buy, as the proper care of possessions adds 100% -to their longevity. - -In every case in this book the very best devices are discussed. If the -reader feels that in any case a too expensive article has been -delineated at least he (or she) will get from the discussion of the -thing, an idea and ideal of what is to be demanded of this sort of -device ... and if she (or he) be improvident, will immediately buy a -_cheap_ thing instead of waiting until he (or she) can afford a better -article if not the best. In short, the purchaser should demand in every -purchase the largest collection of “best traits.” - -So this book, then, aims to give the purchaser an idea of what things or -_qualities_ to buy; to stimulate the manufacturer who is ready to -furnish them when given a reason for doing so; to make of every purchase -a paying investment, not a mere expenditure; and to cheat the -Crœsus-like junk-man out of his expected heritage. - -Due to the time it takes to print and publish a book the reader will -realize that there may be new things created which could not be included -herein. - - E. R. P. - - - - -INTRODUCTION - -THE HOUSEWIFE AS MANAGER AND PURCHASING AGENT - - -Several years ago we heard a great deal of talk about women’s place -being in the home. The slogan was used as a campaign challenge and as a -sneer. It was bandied up and down the country-side until we got pretty -tired of hearing it. Since the privilege of voting has been given women -and since their weight is being felt in elections, the cry has died -down. The simple reason is that neither the employment of women in -war-work nor the radical challenges of the ultra-feminist has altered -the fundamental fact that the home is a woman’s realm. Now you can -banish her to the home and make it such a place of drudgery that she -loathes it; or she can abide there as a queenly figure, director of its -work. - -Thanks to the inventive genius of our manufacturers, the home has ceased -to be a place of exile for a woman. The long hours that used to obtain -in housework, the wear and tear on nerves and muscles, are being cut -down by labor-saving equipment. The shortage of servants is being met -with the same devices. - -It can never be expected that a big house will be totally servantless. -Utopia is still far away. But it can be reasonably expected that every -house will get along with fewer servants. The hope of this expectation -lies in two salient features of these times: (1) the simplifying of our -home life; (2) the position of the housewife as a manager. - -One of the reasons for the high cost of living has been the complication -of our living. The past generation has been brought up to feel that so -many more things are necessary to comfort than was the previous -generation. Short cuts to comfort cost money. The grocery order sent -over the telephone saves steps but adds to the bill. The dress bought -ready-made is a convenience--and an extra expense. The food and drink -picked up at shops have added to the cost of living--especially the -drink. Nowadays Congress is encouraging the making of drinks at home, -sensible women will take a basket on arm and supervise their own buying -at grocery stores, and we are forgetting the silly twaddle about clothes -not looking tailor-made. The way to meet the high cost of living is to -simplify the manner of living. And the way to simplify the manner of -living is to live more at home and do more at home. - -We’ve reached the ebb-tide. The flood is leaving the restaurant and the -cabaret and turning toward home. Make no mistake about that. We are -being cleansed with the fire that we ourselves kindled. The home is -coming into its own, and with it, the woman in the home. - -Taking them by and large, our grandmothers were pretty good managers. -They didn’t have vacuum cleaners or electric toasters or telephones or a -lot of other equipment that has cut down housework today, but, if you -will remember, they did have a very decided system in running and -managing their households. - -Our mother’s day saw the introduction of labor-saving devices. The -household work then stood on the threshold of a new era, but it didn’t -have the courage to put a foot across. Moreover, the equipment had not -reached the degree of proficiency where it could be considered -practical. The machinery of household equipment complicated living. - -This present generation has the perfected machinery and much more to -come, but it lacks what our grandmothers had--a system. We are dealing -with old problems with new equipment. It is a case of old wine in new -bottles, and we have to find a way of handling it. The secret, of -course, is a system, a policy. - -The housewife of today is to her home what a man is to his office. She -is a house manager, a Domiologist, as the author of this book suitably -coined. To be successful in that sphere she must apply the same -principles of management to her work that her husband does to his. She -must consider three things: (1) household policy; (2) household -equipment; (3) employed personnel. - -The employed personnel not only includes the cook and the other servants -of the house, but also the grocer from whom the vegetables are bought, -the butcher, the dealer in housewares. There is just as much reason for -looking into the character of her butcher before she buys from him as -for looking into her cook’s reputation before she hires her. In this -respect the housewife is a purchasing agent and she should apply the -same exacting principles that a purchasing agent of a factory does. - -The household equipment can generally be divided into departments, just -as office work is divided into departments. There is the cooking -department, the laundry department and the cleaning department. These -will be large and small according to the size of the family and the -house. Each requires its own equipment and each should be kept -separate--the cleaning instruments such as brushes, brooms, vacuum -cleaner, dust cloths, etc., in their own department or closet; the -things appertaining to the kitchen in the kitchen; the laundry -equipment, soap, clothes-lines etc. in the laundry. Some household -managers may say that this is an old story. Yes, to them. But hundreds -of women complicate the household work by not using this departmental -idea. So soon as they do, household work begins to straighten out. - -A household policy is less easy to define. In an office a policy is the -way of conducting business--both the way and the purpose. In a house it -should be the same. - -It is this that the author of this book reiterates over and over again, -a policy and system in the department of the installing of labor-saving -and work-doing machinery and devices and operations to reduce the -irksomeness of household management. It is this that the readers of -_House and Garden Magazine_, wherein this book appeared serially, have -enjoyed. Men and women have profited by its accurate technical -discussion and by the delightful presentation with its occasional bits -of humor. For these reasons I gladly recommend it to its future public -which I feel sure has need of it, consciously or unconsciously. - - RICHARDSON WRIGHT - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - INTRODUCTION. THE HOUSEKEEPER AS MANAGER. - - BY RICHARDSON WRIGHT, Editor of _House and Garden Magazine_ xi - - CHAPTER - - I. INTRODUCING YOU TO ELECTRICITY 1 - Electricity simplified for your many uses. - - II. KEEPING OUT OF HOT WATER 13 - Making dishwashing a pleasant game. How the drudgery of - dishwashing is banished by electricity. - - III. ELECTROCUTING THE WASH 22 - No more wasting the laundress. Electric laundries make - washing, drying and ironing swifter and cleaner. - - IV. THE PORTABLE VACUUM CLEANER 45 - Makes a clean sweep if you buy the right kind. - - V. A PIPE DREAM 54 - The stationary vacuum plant in your cellar is piped for - convenience, like water to your chambers. - - VI. COOKING BY ELECTRIC CURRENT 62 - Not a currant jam, but a release of time and a gain in - cleanliness and comfort. - - VII. TAKING GUESSWORK OUT OF GAS COOKERY 75 - Done by the new devices for timing and temperatures and - the new surfaces for cooking. - - VIII. THE OIL RANGE 86 - These days can never say “Call me oily, mother dear,” as - the new ranges are odorless, swift and clean cookers. - - IX. COOKING BY ABSENT TREATMENT 96 - The method of the new fireless electric cookers. - - X. QUESTIONS FROM THE LEAGUE OF RATIONS 100 - Well met by the new kitchenette equipments. - - XI. KEEPING IT COOL 106 - The refrigerator is good only if you buy the best types. - The points are here for your digestion. - - XII. THE PASSING OF THE ICE MAN 113 - The irrevocable tragedy with the advent of the ice-making - refrigerators. - - XIII. A BURNING QUESTION 119 - The incinerator. The right kind of incineration is the - only way to answer the question. - - XIV. AIR AND ITS ENTRANCE AND EXIT 126 - Depend on many things detailed in this chapter. - - XV. THE PLUMBING IN YOUR KITCHEN 136 - A “piping” chapter in reference to sinks of all kinds, - refrigerator connection, etc. - - XVI. KNIFE-LIFE IN THE KITCHEN 150 - Speaks for their habits, habitat, uses, and abilities. - - XVII. THE ANCIENT WOOD IMPLEMENTS 163 - Their place in your modern economy. - - XVIII. GLASS WARE 170 - Some transparent but overlooked facts. - - XIX. THE BRIDE’S KITCHEN 175 - With its accessories is the same as any first equipment - for any kitchen (utensils, function, etc.). - - XX. CANNING AND PRESERVING 187 - With many new angles. - - XXI. CASSEROLES OR THE REVOLUTION CULINARY 197 - An exciting title for a casserole discussion. - - XXII. FURNISHING YOUR KITCHEN 202 - The best, according to your purse, is suggested here. - Tables much discussed. - - XXIII. KITCHEN COSMETICS 211 - How to “make-up” the kitchen with paint and varnish. - - XXIV. THE GREAT AMERICAN DISH 220 - Ice cream is made possible by proper implements. - - XXV. THE KITCHEN ROTARY CLUB 229 - Tells of the new and old buffers and mixers for culinary - amalgamations, etc., and how to “beat it” modernly. - - XXVI. FLAWS OR FLOORS IN YOUR KITCHEN 236 - Gives advice as to choice and treatment of floorings. - - XXVII. FEDERALIZING YOUR KITCHEN 244 - Having kitchen cabinets built the right way, so that - from them kitchen processes can comfortably be directed. - - XXVIII. WHEN THE POT HANGS HIGH 250 - A plea for the convenient arrangement of everyday - kitchen utensils. Hooks versus closets, and daylight - versus dark. - - XXIX. BRUSHING UP ON BRUSHES 255 - Their manufacture, functions, treatment, and - adaptability to different things. - - XXX. THE QUIET HOUSE 264 - How by insulations, and various other devices, quiet may - be had in _any_ home. - - XXXI. OSTRACIZING THE FLY 269 - By screens (and cleanliness). Here cleanliness is taken - for granted and screens are discussed--not movie but - movable screens. - - XXXII. POLISHING THE WATER SUPPLY 282 - Another way of saying, “Here are ways to filter water - properly.” - - XXXIII. OUTSTRIPPING THE GALE 292 - By weather stripping. A discussion of weather strips to - save time, money and health. - - XXXIV. BEAUTY AND THE BATH 302 - Retails the new bathroom fixings which make them less - like a hospital in appearance. - - XXXV. THE WINTER OF YOUR CONTENT 313 - Can be had only by heating plants properly bought and - kept. - - XXXVI. OUTLETS SAVE YOUR INCOME 328 - In lighting the house. - - XXXVII. TIN WARE, RUBBER AND PAPER 337 - Mere articles of use and comfort. - - XXXVIII. COME OUT OF THE PARLOR 343 - And see what lovely gifts you can give from the realm of - the kitchen. - - XXXIX. LATEST INVENTIONS 348 - At least as late as the printing of a new book - permitted. - - XL. MEASURE FOR MEASURE 354 - A warning in terms of weights and measures for kitchen - economy. - - XLI. TAKING THE KITCHEN ALONG 366 - When motoring or picnicking what to carry. - - XLII. THE FIRE HAZARD 370 - Ways to decrease the danger of fire. - - XLIII. TAKING CARE OF THE HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENT 390 - The only way to cheat the junk-pile after buying the - best devices. - - XLIV. A FEW SUGGESTIVE BOOKS 400 - In which you may read further about things we could not - touch upon in this short collection. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Bungalow and palace can be fed with the newer oil - ranges with plenty of space and ovens _Frontispiece_ - - PAGE - - A way to keep out of “hot water”--The portable dishwasher 15 - - The dishwasher which is a table when not washing 19 - - Wet days can be dry days no matter what the law may be with the - indoor dryer 33 - - Looking for the dust which was sucked down from above stairs! 55 - - Electric range 63 - - TO FACE PAGE - Hood and stove heated by gas and wood 75 - - The smooth top 38″ gas range takes the stoop out of stoopid - cookery 77 - - Taking the guess work out of oven temperatures by the use of an - automatic heat regulator 81 - - TO FACE PAGE - A corner in Walter Russell’s kitchenette 100 - - TO FACE PAGE - When there is a cellar used for the laundry, the ice-maker coils - can be set down there with ease and simplicity 106 - - Nor cold nor heat can get beyond these fortifications 109 - - She is cool even in summer with moving air 129 - - Devices designed by the author for keeping cutlery in cutting - form 158 - - Another device designed by the author for keeping cutlery in - cutting form 160 - - TO FACE PAGE - Showing the meat-chopping table, range 202 - - A member of the kitchen rotary club at work on cake-mixing 231 - - TO FACE PAGE - An ideal kitchen with linotile floor, built-in steel kitchen - cabinet units and cook’s table, with pot hanger comfort 236 - - TO FACE PAGE - A steel unit kitchen cabinet flanked by broom and duster closets 244 - - The screen which rolls up is a comfort as well as a safe and sure - insect ostracizer 275 - - Double hung or ordinary sliding window treatment with - weatherstrips obviates draughts, dust and noise--saves coal! 295 - - A method of heating water by means of a faucet attachment 325 - - Detach plug from iron as well as from socket if you want your - home intact 382 - - She has prepared the way for a nice little fire 383 - - - - -CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE - - - - -Cheating The Junk-Pile - - - - -CHAPTER I - -INTRODUCING YOU TO ELECTRICITY - - -What’s a watt? This is not a comic opera refrain, but a question asked -so many times that it is typical of the lack of knowledge people have -to-day of the force which they are using constantly in their own homes -and others. - -We have lived to see women go to automobile schools and learn the -working of the car which is theirs to drive. But as yet there seems to -be no course even in the domestic science school which gives the -household engineer an inkling of what is to be her mechanical field in -the realm of electricity or ordinary mechanical construction. We hope -this will come. - -For have you ever stopped to think that the housekeeper to-day presides -over an extensive electric installation? Even if she has but a telephone -and an electric bell in the house, there is much that happens that ought -to be familiar to her. - -But people to-day have much more than these few things; they have at -least three or four of the following: ironing machine, washing machine, -vacuum cleaner, telephone, warming pad, electric lights, toaster, -electric piano, sewing machine, curling iron, electric range, electric -iron, etc., yet the underlying principles and vocabulary are still as -Sanskrit to the majority of users. - -This article is but to make simple and comfortable electric -terminologies and we will use this for an excuse to get at a few -electrical misusages. It is to make electricity familiar rather than a -stranger to the user. Nobody knows what electricity is, so fortunately, -we don’t have to stop and define it. All that we know is that it acts in -certain definite ways. - -We get electricity from the battery and from the generator (dynamo). The -battery consists of celled containers which come under the heads of dry -and wet batteries in so far as they contain liquid or solid (wet) -ingredients, through which the electricity is generated and passed out -by means of wires. In short the battery produces electricity by means of -chemicals. The primary battery produces electricity and the storage -battery stores it in the form of chemical energy. It is useless for -purveying very much electrical power as there never can be enough -pressure (voltage) to send along the electricity to do big jobs, unless -hundreds of cells connected in a certain way were used, which would be a -foolish waste of material and time, etc. - -In order to obviate such manufacturing the generator or dynamo is used -and electricity is made in this way by induction. In other words, we -make it by letting a coil of wire (or several coils) be revolved by -steam or water power (usually) as it cuts through the area of magnetism -(field) of a giant magnet something like those we used when we were -children. This coil catches the electricity and it is led off by wires -wherever we want it to perform. The coil on the spindle is called the -armature, where the wire is attached to lead off the electricity from -the armature are contact-pieces, and the plates which make the contact -with the contact pieces and to which are attached the wires of the -out-going electric circuit are called the brushes. There is much more to -say, but not in this article. If you are interested we refer you to -Charles R. Gibson’s “Romance of Electricity” for simple electrical -explanations. - -The motor with a few mechanical changes is the reverse of the dynamo; it -works by electricity and changes it into mechanical power to work our -washing machines, etc. There are on the market A. C., D. C., and -Universal motors. These you will understand after the next section which -takes up A. C. and D. C. electricity. - -“Madam, do you use A. C. or D. C.?” asks the man selling you a washing -machine. Most decent folks are quite at sea at this seemingly geographic -question, and yet after all it is the most complicated simple thing in -the world. D. C. doesn’t mean District of Columbia; it simply means -Direct Current. And A. C. means Alternating Current. And on these two -kinds hang all the wires of electric profits. - -Direct Current or D. C. is a current that runs in one direction over the -wire like water through a pipe. It is simple to visualize, even if -electricity does flow 163,000 miles per second. But alternating current -(A. C.) is electricity which alternates and goes back and forth, -generally. Even though it goes back and forth in waves of tremendous -rapidity, you can see that there must be a time in this period when the -electricity is for an infinitesimal space of time at low power, and -another infinitesimal space of time at high. In order to keep the supply -even and steady, two and sometimes three coils of wire are used in the -generator to catch the electricity so that there is scant opportunity -for the electric supply to be anything but even, for when one coil is up -the other is down and thus they even up the strength of the current. - -So when your salesman asks you when you buy a motor, “If you have A. C. -or D. C. electricity” and you say A. C. he may go on and say, “How many -phase?” Then you should find out the answer from your lighting company. -He then may ask you how many cycles, which when translated means the -electric period it takes for the alternating current to flow back and -forth. - -Now dynamos for D. C. and A. C. electricity vary slightly, but that need -not trouble _us_. - -The reason for two kinds of electricity at all is that each, though -obeying the larger laws, has its own peculiar habits and good points. - -For example, alternating current can be carried long distances at high -pressure (high voltage) and side-tracked by a transformer to a little -home and the pressure very simply reduced. In other cases the pressure -can be very simply increased. Therefore in country districts one is very -prone to see A. C. in vogue. - -The same amount of current, whether D. C. or A. C., is used for -lighting, etc. - -A. C. is not used for electro-plating, etc., or for storage batteries. -This is a good point to remember if you have storage batteries to supply -for bells, etc., and your current is A. C. You will have to have your -batteries charged from a plant which makes D. C. or install a small -“converter.” If you attempt to use the A. C. you will burn out your -plates. - -But how is electricity measured? How, in other words, do we know how -much we use and how can we test our bills? The following paradigm will -give the electric measures translated into more familiar terms of water -measurement: - - Volt Pressure - Ampere Rate of flow of current per second - Watt Fraction of horsepower (H.P.) - Kilowatt (1000 watts) 1¹⁄₃ H.P. - Resistance Friction (as water resists the sides of a - pipe.) - Ohms (the unit of Friction (as water resists the sides of a - measuring resistance). pipe). - -The volt takes its name from Volta, an Italian scientist; the ampere -from a Frenchman, the ohm from a German, the watt from an Englishman. We -hear most about volts and watts. Voltage is found by multiplying the -ohms by the amperes. The volt is the pressure that makes electricity -flow through the wire, and the friction of resistance to its flow is -measured by the ohm. - -The amount of work a given number of amperes will do at a certain -voltage (pressure) is known as watts. - -So if by chance you ever need formulæ here is a little one for your card -catalogue: - - Ohms×amperes=volts. - Volts÷ohm=ampere. - Volts×ampere=watts. - 1 Kilowatt=1000 watts. - 1000 watts=1¹⁄₃ H. P. - -The next thing which is necessary for the householder to know is how to -compute costs of electrical usage. - -The amount of electric power used, for example, by the electric light is -measured in watts. Look on any incandescent bulb and you will see -thereon the number of watts--usually around 50 or 60. - -In order to know how many watts a light consumes, divide the number of -watts it consumes by 1000 to reduce it to a something of a kilowatt. -Then multiply this result by the number of hours the lamp has been lit -by the kilowatt to get the kilowatt hour of electricity. The kilowatt -hour, of course, multiplied by the rate per kilowatt hour in your -locality will give you the cost. The rate is always figured on the -kilowatt hour. - - Watt÷1000=kilowatts. - Kilowatt×hours=kilowatt hours. - Kilowatt hours×rate=cost. - -Probably it would be a good thing to know how to read the meter, which -generally consists of four little dials which are read from right to -left. The first dial measures the tens, the second the hundreds, the -third the thousands, the fourth the ten thousands. Therefore - - if the hand in the left has passed 9, that would stand for 9000 - In 2nd dial nearest to 1 that would stand for 100 - In 3rd dial nearest to 2, that would stand for 20 - In 4th dial nearest to 1, that would stand for 1 - ---- - 9121 - -The total is 9121 kilowatt hours and this multiplied by the rate (say -ten cents) as it is in some places, would mean that the bill for this -consumption would be $92.2. Now, knowing from your last month’s bill -that the reading of the meter then was 82000--by subtracting you find -that the actual current consumed was 921 K. W. hours, which multiplied -by rate (say ten cents) gives you $92.10 as your bill. - -To quote from an article in this series on electric ranges will give you -an idea as to how to buy in accordance with voltage and how the cost is -reckoned in watts: - -“It is necessary when ordering a range to give the voltage of your -electricity supply. The stoves are usually prepared for 110-220, 110 -volts with two wire service from the street or 110-220 volts with three -wire service. In some stoves the cut-out box is built on the range -directly back of the switches. This, then, can be easily opened if -anything happens. In the stock stove there is made an extra charge for -voltage exceeding 220 or less than 110, because alterations have to be -made. - -According to the size of heating elements in the stove, etc., the -wattage runs from 10,000 watts or 10 kilowatts, which is the same thing, -to about 2500 watts, or 2¹⁄₂ kilowatts on a small three-heating-unit -range. This gives its total capacity if everything goes at once. The -number of watts used, multiplied by our local rate, say four cents, -gives the cost per kilowatt hour, which in this case would be 40 cents -per hour. - -Have you ever wondered how electricity changes from current to heat? -Have you ever wondered how we can cook, and iron, and warm a room by it? - -It is due to electricity’s resistance, which is measured in ohms. It is -resistance which is turned into heat. The process of overcoming -resistance results in throwing off heat. It is quite familiar. - -Did you ever rub a piece of wood in the palm of your hand for a little -while and feel the heat given off? We call it friction, but it is really -the giving off of heat due to expenditure of mechanical energy. - -The same thing happens with the electricity. This electricity which -travels at the speed of 163,000 miles a second, when it comes into -frictional relation with its conductor pushes aside the molecules of the -metal, and here the mechanical energy is magically transformed into -heat. - - -SOME TECHNICAL TERMS - -When we hear short-circuit mentioned, what does it mean to us? Well, it -should mean that the path of the electricity (electric circuit) has been -suddenly shortened, the electricity has escaped through the ground or -over another conductor. - -Insulation is the covering by which the escape of electricity through -the wire is made impossible. Always see to it that the insulation is in -perfect condition. - -All wires must be insulated. In damp places rubber covered wire must be -used. - -Wires must always be protected with porcelain tubes passing through -partition walls, girders, and where they pass over pipes, and other -wires, etc. - -Incandescent lights are merely globes with a vacuum in which a filament -of tungsten or some other highly resistant material meets the electric -current and glows through its very resistant power. - -The switch is merely a device to open and close the path of electricity. - -The socket is the termination of two wires from the generator or -battery, into which the bulb of the light is put and other connections -made. - -You will notice two wires on every electric connection. This is to make -a complete electric circuit (path) to and from the points where it is -used. - -The outlet is the opening where the socket can be placed. The more -outlets you have in your home before building the better off you will be -forever and ever. A convenient outlet (sometimes called a baseboard or -wall receptacle) is simply a place for conveniently connecting electric -appliances to your electric current. - -Fuses are things we hear much about. They are the stop-gaps really -between danger and safety and though they make a splutter when they -“blow out” it is right that they should. Briefly, the fuse is a bit of -lead or other metal with a low melting point so placed that when the -circuit gets overloaded for any reason the metal will melt and open the -circuit, stopping the electricity and preventing danger. - -When the fuse burns, we call that a blow-out, but this burning has saved -us from dangerous currents. - -Every house should be well supplied with fuses, and as soon as they are -blown out, restored. Your superintendent or electrician will show you -how to restore the oft blown-out fuse. So it is wise to keep a few new -fuses in one’s home. - -The fuse will blow out sometimes if you allow a bit of metal from a lamp -shade to cavort too intimately with the excitable parts of your -incandescent bulb; then the wire gets overloaded and the tin or lead -conductor on the fuse melts and prevents the greater current doing any -damage. It’s simple, isn’t it? The fuses come in convenient shape. -Sometimes it is wise to use a rubber glove when putting them in. We have -seen a sparking do a bit of burning. - -Electricity is not dangerous when properly employed. It is dangerous -when you use it wrongly. If you put your hand under a boiling hot stream -of water you will get burnt. If you put your hand on a red hot stove you -will get burnt; if you burn a fire in a wooden box you will have more -fire than you bargained for; if you inhale gas you will die. Such is the -case with electricity, which is a most controllable force if you are not -ignorant as to how to use it. However, if you will put a hot curling -iron on your table without turning off your current you will have a cozy -little fire start up; so you would if you laid down a cigaret without -putting it out. Most accidents occur simply because of such ridiculous -carelessness. Mr. A. M. Grant of the Manhattan Electrical Supply Company -said a wise thing in reference to this subject: “Before connecting any -appliance to your lamp socket turn out the light in your bulb; then you -know that your current is off. Never attach anything to anything -electrical until the current is off and never go away and leave an -appliance with the electricity turned on.” - -More specifically, in using any electric appliance non-continuously, -shut off the current immediately upon stopping. Do not only pull out the -plug but turn off the electricity. - -In using the flat-iron detach the plug at the iron as well as turn off -the current from the socket. - -Remove the iron from the goods and detach the plug when called away from -the ironing board. - -Never pull the plug out by the cord; always grip it at the spring. - -Always replace at once frayed wires--as the ends often collide and make -blow-outs. - -Don’t leave your electric curling iron on the table cloth and do -something else about the room without first turning off the current--or -you’ll have a cute little fire. - -Care must be taken in using too many cluster plugs, because the electric -circuit (path) may be overloaded. That is, too much electricity drawn -over the wire which is made for a certain load. Then your fuse will blow -out. Extra appliances should be attached to different circuits. This a -good electrician will regulate for you. Too much wattage (horsepower) -over one circuit is like forcing any machinery to the breaking point. A -percolator, toaster and a lamp are too heavy a load for the ordinary -circuit. Connect at the same place only those appliances that are of low -wattage. - -Some firms have now made percolators and water heaters with fuse-nut or -safety fuse devices which melt if overloaded or allowed to heat up -without any liquid in them to be heated. You must not let a percolator -“perc” without any water in it. People complain more about good -percolators because their heating element burns out, either because -they do this or because they have it connected up with too many other -devices. Even if you do the right thing in these respects, don’t forget -to disconnect the electricity by pulling out the plug. - -Don’t get your electricity heating pad wet. In fact, don’t wet any -electric appliance carelessly or you may have a short circuit. - -Remember that electricity, magic as it is, can burn as well as any -flame, so don’t let your curtains blow against a red hot electric -radiator and then blame it on the electricity which after all is your -servant if you make it so by right treatment. - -Always ask your salesman to what the device purchased should be -attached. Some things are designed for the ordinary lamp socket, and -others need different connections. - -Many electric appliances have the pilot light to tell you whether your -electric current is on or off. Yet it is wise to be your own pilot and -remember what you are doing. - -Do not leave your electrical installation entirely to your architect. -Watch what is happening. Remember you need as many outlets as you -possibly can afford; the more you have the better lighting you can have, -the better electric comforts you can have. If you have few outlets you -are very prone to overload your circuit, and in the future as more -electric devices come into being you will have to pass them up. Outlets -consume no electricity but are simply entrances where electricity can be -located as soon as the appliance is connected up with it and turned on. - -Above all, have your electric installation put in by the most -responsible and experienced people you can get to do it. - -When you buy appliances always ask what voltage they require and find -out what your own voltage is before you buy; also find out whether you -have D. C. or A. C., and if A. C. find out what phase and cycle. These -things will save you time and money and free you from any apprehension -of calamity from the use of electricity. - -There is much left unsaid in this chapter. It would take a book by -itself to say everything. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -KEEPING OUT OF HOT WATER - - -There is never any magic about household equipment. You must not expect -to do the impossible. If you have a dishwasher you must not expect it to -do any more processes of washing than you expect of your player piano of -playing. The dishwasher is to wash, the piano to play. - -Many women have said, “I think a dishwasher is a nuisance, you have to -stack your dishes, hand-scrape pots and pans, carry water by the pailful -and then have the job of cleaning the dishwasher itself. The only thing -it does is to wash off some of the dishes.” - -Well, it is only a dishwasher. Doesn’t the automobile have to be cleaned -and oiled? Why should the dishwasher be expected to polish silver. - -Yet we do solemnly think that the dishwasher attached to the plumbing of -the house, so that the fresh water comes in unlifted by the operator and -goes out unheeded, is the only dishwasher to buy, regardless of how it -is worked--by hand, by water force or by electricity. This is only one -type. - -Some of the best dishwashers are made unattached to the plumbing so that -they can be wheeled into the dining room and be stacked as they leave -the table. This is a rather perfect type for some homes, but you must -have it fixed so that when it arrives dish laden in the kitchen or -pantry it can be attached to the water supply and emptied through the -sewer. This is the only way to get maximum comfort, unless you or your -cook enjoy hauling pails of water. - -Yet we can imagine many women who would rather haul water than handle -dish water. And here is where the “unattached” dishwasher wins out over -the old-fashioned style of washing dishes. The chances of breakage are -less where the dishes are not washed separately and rehandled for drying -separately. Dishes handled when dry do not slip so readily, to fall or -break. - -For the most part these machines are equipped with a motor which propels -a fan or paddle to spray or “swish” and whirl the water about among the -dishes. The efficiency depends not only on the speed the water travels -but on the direction. - -For example, one of the most interesting of dishwashers is not run by -hand or electricity, but it is attached to the drain and water supply. -The hot water is distributed and so forced against the dishes that, -without soap, they are washed noiselessly. No soap is required with this -machine. - -It has taken us a long time to be sold to this dishwasher, but we are -convinced that it is the type to use when one has to do one’s own work. - -If it is possible to use very hot water in your dishwasher, you can -leave the top of your machine off and the dishes will dry without -handwork. Of course, there will be no polish on the glass and silver, -but they will be dry. - -The following is advice given by those who sell dishwashers: - -1. You must have hot water--really hot water--to use an electric -dishwasher successfully. - -2. Use the soap powder the manufacturer supplies or recommends. Remember -that suds are unnecessary for cleansing and are hard to rinse off, -anyway. You need an ash powder which will cut grease. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Whirlpool Mfg. Co._ - -A WAY TO KEEP OUT OF “HOT WATER”--THE PORTABLE DISHWASHER] - -3. Dishes covered with egg, flour mixtures, etc., should first be held -under cold water. Hot water boils these mixtures and makes them stick -closer to dishes. - -4. Follow the manufacturer’s directions as to placing dishes, silver, -etc. Get the knack--which is easily acquired--of putting in the dishes -with the fewest motions possible. - -5. Experiment with the much disputed point of whether dishwashers will -wash pots and pans. Most dishwashers will clean them of everything -except burnt-on food or particles which have to be taken off with a -powder. - -6. Note how easy it is to dry the silver and polish glassware, and that -while you are doing this the china dries itself and needs only to be put -away. - -7. If you have a small family do not wash the dishes after every meal, -but stack them in the dishwasher and wash them once a day, say after -breakfast. - -8. Remember that dishwashing is but one of a series of kitchen -operations. To begin at the beginning, and to get the utmost value out -of the electric dishwasher, glass, aluminum and enamel cooking utensils -are to be recommended, wherever possible without handles, so that they -do not take up too much space in the machine. In cooking and serving, -clean up as you go, using as few utensils as possible in your cooking -(all modern houseworkers recommend this procedure, although it does not -always meet with the approval of housekeepers generally), stacking -bowls, plates, spoons, etc., in the dishwasher as you work, thus having -a comparatively clean kitchen when you are ready to serve the meal. - -9. See that the dishwasher is properly placed in relation to the entire -dishwashing performance. The ideal placement is near the dining room or -pantry door, so that it receives the dishes without extra steps, and -adjacent to cupboard where dishes are put away. - -You will perhaps think this is a lot to do, but didn’t you have to learn -to “do” things on your vacuum cleaner, your washing machine, your -typewriter, too? Weren’t you willing to learn how to run your own car? - -When buying a dishwasher, look at the racks. Be sure they are smooth and -easily cleaned, finished so that there is naught to peel off and catch -food. Also be sure these racks fit and are not cantankerous in going -back into the machine. If they are difficult to manipulate the misery is -untold. - -In purchasing look for the following points: - -1. The dishwasher must be smooth inside. - -2. No corners to harbor bits of food. - -3. Self cleansing. - -4. Dishes placed so as to be unmoveable and not stick together. - -5. Cost of electricity low, from one to two cents per washing. - -6. Capacity to be convenient to your uses. - -7. Operates in kitchen or pantry. - -8. Operates from three to fifteen minutes. - -9. The water penetrates all sides of dishes. - -10. Easy to fill and empty whether attached or unattached to water and -outlet systems. - -Some booklets advertise the fact that machines require only six quarts -of water--less water than in ordinary dishwashing. The water, unless it -is to be hand handled, need not trouble anyone. But it is a well known -fact that dishes to be washed satisfactorily must have water used on -them without stint. - -The most satisfactory soaps are the white powders. A new powder, on the -market, which isn’t soap at all, does not leave a greasy residue and -make a difficulty of cleaning out the dishwater. In a good dishwasher, -however, the water force banishes residue of all kinds. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Western Electric Co._ - -THE DISHWASHER WHICH IS A TABLE WHEN NOT WASHING] - -One manufacturer of a good dishwasher is honest enough to say that for a -good effect silver and glasses should always be polished coming out of -the dishwasher, because any method of washing will always leave a film. -Many a dishwasher has been sold on the pretext that this is unnecessary -and the result has been dissatisfaction and a psychological dislike of -the machine. - -To be sure, an ordinary dirty pot or pan can be cleaned on a -dishwasher. The burnt-on type of dirt must be scraped off by hand. - -Warning: don’t burn in food, so use utensils where you reduce this -possibility to a minimum. Some dishwasher concerns supply you with -hand-saving scrapers. - -A dishwasher in the shape of a table, beautifully finished, makes it -unnecessary to have an extra table about. This does its work well. One -example of this table-high dishwasher has a device whereby the rack of -dishes is lifted to a reachable height by lifting the lid. - -Another supplies you with extra baskets in which to stack your dishes -while the full basket is being used in the washer. - -Yet another cylinder type has a cover that goes back flat, on which can -be laid the tray to be filled with dishes. - -At present some of these machines make a slight noise in operation; yet -many do not mind this. But in telling a story we must tell it all. Of -course many other machines used in the home are no “modest violets” -either. We don’t need to listen hard to hear vacuum cleaners or patent -brooms, but they work well despite their blatansies. - -Washing machines are made in cylindrical and rectangular form and can be -placed in small kitchens as well as large without inconvenience. Of -course there are some machines called “Domestic” that are meant for the -domesticity of a home where there are seventeen servants and other -things equally hotel-like. These are big and efficient but the ordinary -apartment or small home could not afford to house them. - -The dishwasher really is the crux of the economic problem. Many a girl -would marry gladly without a maid, if the dishwashing was reduced to a -minimum. One of these days when lovers offer dishwashers in addition to -the conventional platinum solitaires, they will find winning a bride a -much easier task than it is at present. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -ELECTROCUTING THE WASH! - - -“Can’t afford,” is the first thing that is said against the installation -of electrical equipment in the home. Equipment for offices is placed -because it is saving of time and money and energy, but equipment for the -home is often grudgingly installed just because makeshifts have been the -rule for so long. - -Quite true is it, that you often have a hard time to prove to your -husband that the washer is a money saver, that the ironer too is a saver -of money. But this can be done very easily. Let money talk and the -machinery will almost install itself! - -The laundry equipment, of course, is a serious thing and must be taken -so. Many things should be investigated before buying, your needs known -to yourself. Equipment should not, like marriage, be entered into -unadvisedly, for when you spend money you must spend it as an investment -and not as a mere lark. You must get your return on the investment or -you have thrown it away. - -If you do not know what to get, read, use shoe leather and ask those who -have the thing you want. The manufacturers too are glad to talk over -your needs. - - -REQUIREMENTS OF THE HOME LAUNDRY - -A satisfactory laundry depends on:-- - -1. The location of room, its relation to outdoor drying and its -relation to the source of supply of incoming laundry. - -2. Proper floor, ceiling and walls. All joints curved, no corners. - -3. Selection of equipment. The types and kinds best fitted to size of -family and room. - -4. The advantageous disposal of appliances purchased. - -5. Thorough instruction of operators in the use of the machinery, as a -good machine is useless unless the operator knows the requirements. - -6. Proper care of appliances. - -7. Sanitary conditions: light and ventilation. Good air is part of all -good laundry work. - -8. The acceptance of the worker to use cheerfully the machinery and the -adequate payment of the worker. - -9. Knowledge on the part of the housekeeper or mistress of the laundry -procedure in order to oversee more intelligently the work done. _Women -seem to think a knowledge of cookery_ necessary but _give little heed to -the importance_ of the laundry. - -10. A system developed and maintained for the laundering of clothes. - -So much for the general principles. This chapter will not deal at all -with methods of laundry work ... as is. - -The only reason for the electric laundry is that it does save time, -money and energy and prolongs the life of clothes to a certain degree. - -In doing missionary work in the past for these things, people said: “you -can lead a maid to the washer but you can’t make her wash.” They said -this too about the horse and the trough, yet if he never drank he would -have died of thirst! So much for that argument. You may as well say: You -can lead a cook to the soup pot but you can’t make him stir! - -Money talks to husbands! you can prove the saving. - -Less work talks to laundresses, you can prove the saving. - - -GENERALLY SPEAKING - -A good equipment for a house with six in the family and three to four -servants is as follows: - -A tiled floor. The large blue tile is interesting and less glaring for -the floor than the white. Linoleum floors too are splendid and cream -walls. - -Washer ¹⁄₃ h. p.; solid copper lined with planished tin to prevent -corrosion, white enamel ironing machine, two rolls; clothes dryer with -four heating units; clothes boiler solid copper lined with planished tin -with screen for holding clothes off the bottom of the boiler; -combination sleeve and skirt board; two metal tables; overhead clothes -dryer, copper clothes extractor; four stationary tubs; electric irons -for valeting and fine work. - - -THE ELECTRIC IRONER - -A great fuss has been made about setting the clock ahead one hour to -save time and daylight, but little attention has been given the problem -of saving four hours every ironing day by means of electricity and the -ironing machine. A good machine, unlike the mangle which only folds and -is not heated, should be able to iron at the rate of seven or eight feet -per minute. In this way the ordinary ironing can be done four times as -quickly as by the old method. - -Many a house-wife without a maid has found ironing good sport with a -good ironer and the labor saving devices have often made marriage -possible--where a servant was too much of a luxury. - -Roughly, the ordinary laundry takes about half a day--one hour for -eight pieces for the average family of five, including all things from -table linen to handkerchiefs. By hand this is about four and a half to -five hours. This costs about $50 to $100 a year or $500 to $1,000 for -ten years’ supply of laundered possessions. - -The fuel consumed for the average ironing with coal or electricity costs -about $15.60 per year: With a good machine ironing by electricity or gas -will come to about one and a half cents, or a total of three cents for -ironing and heating, which is a saving of twenty-seven cents a week or -$14.04 yearly. In ten years a saving of $140. This is apart from the -benefit to health and strength. - -There is one on the market with a bench attached on which the worker can -sit down to her work. As the feed is so arranged that the material turns -under, because of the adjustable delivery board, one doesn’t have to -rise at all, and the saving of strength and comfort is beyond -calculation. - -An ordinary table cloth on an ironing machine takes about three or four -minutes. With a good electric iron it takes about twenty-five to thirty. -Besides this the cloth is ironed evenly and the pattern, if it be -embroidered, is evenly brought out. Initials come out in beautiful -relief, buttons on garments do not break because of the deeply padded -felt rolls which are covered with an especially-made muslin. - -As an ironing machine has proven a practical, money-saving proposition, -what is the best way to purchase one? First, you should have a good idea -as to the breadth on the average of your sheets and table cloths, not -forgetting that it is wise to have a machine wide enough to carry two -table napkins at once. This saves time, saves the over-impression of the -felt in one spot and also uses up the whole length of heat along the -roll. - -In large households, where the work is unusually heavy, often taking -more than one day, a machine about 48″ or 56″ is used for 2¹⁄₂-3 yards -of linen. These rolls should be padded, the heavier the better, to take -care of heavily embroidered initials. - -Many persons think that an ironing machine is a mangle limited to -ironing only the coarser flat work such as sheets, towels, etc. It is, -however, not a mangle but an ironer and will iron practically everything -except the more fancy shirt waists and elaborate dresses. It will iron -to the entire satisfaction kitchen aprons, nightgowns, pajamas, -underwear, children’s play clothes, hosiery, men’s negligee and silk -shirts, and iron, better than an expert laundress can do by hand, -tablecloths, napkins and centerpieces, doilies, dresser scarfs, -blankets, sheets, bed spreads, pillow cases, towels and handkerchiefs. -It is a great help to curtains, as they will hang perfectly after -ironing. Trousers may also be pressed in such a machine. - -The ironing machines on the market claim certain best points. One that a -moveable shoe (the heated part under which the garment is passed) is -good because you can remove starchy accumulations and clean it easily. -Some say that the stationary shoe is the best because the ironing cannot -help being done evenly. You will have to pick your machine. - -In another machine the manufacturers use their patented gas burner of -drilled holes and their air mixture as a talking point to afford a gas -saving. Another claims that oiling is necessary only every six months. - -The feed board is a requisite part which must be perfect. Lowering the -feed board removes the roll from contact with the ironing surface in -some machines. This is the same principle as putting the hand iron on -the rest. At the same time the motion of the roll is automatically -stopped, so that the goods can be withdrawn at any time. It also enables -one to lay a folded piece or a number of them on and over the roll, and -it insures a straight start at all times. On single or double -thicknesses of goods the feed-board need not be lowered, as these will -start in readily. This patented feature means safety to the operator and -safety to the goods being ironed. The feed-board is the flat piece of -board running the length of the machine over which the linen passes. - -Some machines are advertised as having all gears enclosed and protected. -This, of course, makes operation safer. - -The swinging arms, two generally, provided for hanging linen on, are a -convenient addition. - - -AN EXTRAORDINARY ADVANCE - -The above is the usual list of machines made to-day but there is an -unusual one now on the market. This one works entirely by electricity, -it can be heated by gas or electricity. There are no levers to handle, -no treadles to tread. It works completely by a switch and dial. The -little finger is sufficient only to do the job if all your other fingers -were disabled! - -It is a very convenient size for family use and has been in use now long -enough to assure perfection of adaptability for the home. - -In case this all-electric machine has a blow out, and to protect the -clothes from burning on the shoe there is simple provision to guard -against this and all ills. The shoe by a button works back and forth if -necessary, and taken altogether it is a beautiful mechanism. - -A few excellent machines, too, have the two rollers instead of one. This -is supposed to hold material firmer and work more expeditiously. - - -GOOD POINTS - -In some cases the gas burner and electric heater are divided in the -center so that the burner can be used on warm work without scorching the -unused part of the roll. - -The machines should be so made that they are comparatively easy to -clean. - -Levers are not quite as good as the automatic, adjustable feed-board, -which insures ease of control. It is worked by raising and lowering. -This brings the roll in contact with the ironing surface, the same -principle as a hand iron is brought to and from its rest. The action -also stops and starts the rotation of the roller. In other words, it is -automatic and there is no possibility of the operator becoming confused -at a critical moment. There are no levers to pull or switches to turn; -the control is instinctive and always under the hands of the operator -for instant use. Moreover, you can lay your work over the roll while -idle, insuring a straight edge and start the work again at your -convenience. - -Ironing on these machines is done on the same principle as with a flat -iron, only instead of passing the iron over the goods, the goods are -moved against a stationary iron. - - -POWER AND FUEL - -Gas, gasoline and electricity are the fuels used to heat the machines. -Electricity and hand-power turn them. - -Motors come from ¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄ horse power depending on the size of the -machine. When buying one, be sure to tell agent whether you have -Alternating Current (A. C.) or Direct Current (D. C.) and what voltage -you have. Motors are generally supplied 110, 220 volts D. C. and 60 -Cycle 110, or 220 volts A. C. (We are not considering here the belt -driven larger sizes.) - -About ⁷⁄₈ of a pint of gasoline is used on the smaller size machine. -Sometimes the amount increases to 1¹⁄₂ pints; from about 17 to 33 cubic -feet of gas. In the case of electricity as fuel for high heat, 2.5 to 6 -kilowatts are used. For medium 1.7 to 4. For low .85 to 2. - -The current driving the machine is from 180 to 320 watts per hour. - - -SIZE - -The household models come in 46″, 42″, 37″, 32″ actual ironing widths. -The 46″ and 42″ seem to be popular with some manufacturers. The former -is for 2¹⁄₂ yards or 90″ wide and 22″ small linen, and the latter for -2¹⁄₄ yards or 81″ wide or 20″ small linen. The 37″ for 2 yards-wide -linen. Size 32″ takes up actually about 42″ × 26″ of floor space, the -37″--47″ × 26″, the 46″--58″ × 25″, etc. There is one ironing machine on -the market that is separate from its base so that it can be set up in an -apartment on the top of a radiator or on a 14″ shelf. This answers the -wants of the “flat dweller.” - -It is an interesting fact that one agent in New York is shipping 1000 -ironing machines daily, many of which go to Boston. This is due to the -low rate of electricity that prevails in that city. And here’s a -point:--even in some vicinities where the rate is low, where two lines -only supply a whole state with electricity, it is not advisable to use -electricity for machines. You must have a good current, even service, -etc., to make it worth while. - - -HOW TO OPERATE - -You light the burners on these machines as you light the gas, turn the -electric switch and iron. It is quite simple and safe. Many of the -machines have a pilot light to tell when the current (electric) is on or -off. To heat by electricity all you do is to attach the cord to the -ordinary wall socket. - -A hand-power machine is driven by turning a handle. Thirty-five turns a -minute is the right speed. It can be converted any time into a -belt-driven machine and attached to the washing machine or anything else -that goes by motor. - -The saving in health of operator whether wife or servant and the saving -of the life of linens, etc., is beyond computation. - -The best type of ironer has (1) the stationary ironing shoe under which -the felt padded cylinder revolves. This insures evenly distributed heat -and avoids the chance of scorching clothes. - -In some machines this shoe can be set back in case of accident and -prevents the clothes on roller from being burnt. (2) Feed board instead -of lever. This gives more rapid control and is more responsive to the -touch. (3) Electric switch instead of lever or feed board. - - -A FEW PERTINENT QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS - -How long would it take to iron a table cloth by the machine? - -About three or four minutes in comparison to twenty-five or thirty by -the expert laundress using an electric iron. A saving in current and -time. - -What about handsome linens with heavy initials? - -“The pad on the roller should be plenty soft enough to imbed not only -the initials but carry buttons and not break them!” - -“What things can’t you iron with it?” - -“Only fancy waists and skirts. Laces can be beautifully done and, of -course, all the table and bed linens, trousers, etc., etc., etc.” - -“How big are these machines?” - -“They come in four different sizes, but the ordinary home can use the -46-inch cylinder or at least as wide as your widest linen to the best -advantage. That enables fewer folds and more ironing lay-out on roll, -enabling you to put a few napkins on the roll at the same time instead -of one.” - - -THE WASHING MACHINE - -The variety of washing machines on the market to-day are scheduled in -three figures. - -The following will give you an idea of the better known types from which -to weed out yours. - -_A. Types_ - - 1. Rotary or cylinder. - - In which the wash is put into a perforated cylinder which revolves - through the soapy water. - - 2. Oscillating. - - In which the wash is put into the machine and is washed by being - shaken back and forth with enough friction and motion to clean clothes - thoroughly. The bottoms of these machines are corrugated or in some - shape to offer resistance and cause the necessary friction. - - 3. Vacuum. - - In which the clothes are put into machine and are washed by the - operation of vacuum or suction cups raised up and down, drawing the - water through clothes. - - 4. Dolly. - - In which clothes are washed by the semi-rotating dolly or device which - looks like a milking stool. - - 5. Combination of these types such as the Dolly and Disc Twin tubs - with a mechanism in each, washers with a bench upon which to place - wash basket, etc., oscillating cylinder as well as rotating. As to - wringers on these machines, they are stationary, swinging or sliding. - - The latest type is the alternating. Here the drum rotates, and is - divided into two compartments by a perforated plate. The clothing to - be washed is divided equally between the two compartments, and the - mechanical action of the machine produces alternately the action of - the cylinder, oscillating and the vacuum method. - - 6. A good combination in cylinder, oscillating and vacuum type, has - just been added to the market. - - 7. Balance drum, in which the clothes are put in a drum and it shakes - on a pivot. - - 8. Cylinder type worked by water force--for hotel room use. - - 9. Vacuum and cylinder types for tub use run by electricity--for - houses too small in which to bring a washing machine. - -_B. General Requirements of Washers_ - - 1. All parts which might tear clothes should be covered. - - 2. All washers, if not stationary, should be equipped with swinging - reversible wringer. - - 3. Hard wood outside or copper or some hard metal and to prevent - corrosion in the case of copper exterior, planished tin interiors are - the best. - - 4. Durability. - - 5. Ease and simplicity of operation. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Scientific Heater Co._ - -WET DAYS CAN BE DRY DAYS, NO MATTER WHAT THE LAW MAY BE, WITH THE INDOOR -DRYER] - - 6. Minimum parts to take out and clean. - - 7. Less wear and tear on clothes. - - 8. Automatic release on wringer in case finger is caught. - - 9. All interiors smooth, non-absorbent of soil or odors. - - 10. Wash and wring at same time or separately. - -Now you have the requirements, you can take your choice after you have -gone about comparing and examining all the different types. - - -DRYERS - -“What about the dryers?” - -They are one of the things that you could get along without if you -wanted to waste time in drying. They are expensive to buy, but you are -never held up by weather. They dry clothes a good color and you do not -miss the sun. They are heated by their own heat, electric or gas, or can -be attached to the coal stove and get the overflow heat. They are made -to allow no heat to escape even when extended. (See illustration.) - -Up until late years women not convicts have been time servers. But long -before the vote was women’s, there was a mighty revolt and women decided -it became them better to be time savers and not time servers. - -For this reason in gallant fashion manufacturers have rushed to fill the -needs of women in their homes and from soaps to ironing machines have -they labored and not in vain. - -For example, in ancient days if it rained on Monday (then called Moan -day) or was Monday humid, the work either had to be given up because -drying was impossible or the whole household work had to be dislocated -by the transference of wash day to a more sunny occasion, to a day when -drying was not a theory but an inevitable accomplishment. - -No longer need we say, “If at first you can’t succeed, dry, dry again.” -For the heated air dryer has come for the laundry of the private home as -well as for the apartment cellar, and drying has become an indoor sport -rather than an outdoor hazard. - -These dryers are merely galvanized metal of from two to ten compartments -from 46″ to 53″ wide and about 5′ high. The compartments pull out as -easily as a watch stem and each drying rack has six drying rods 66″ long -or a total of 33′ of rack. Each rack is about 10″ wide. The ordinary -length of the rack is 5′ 10″ and the distance from the back of the -cabinet to the end of the racks is about 11′ 8″. When the cabinet is -closed the track which protrudes overhead can be used to hang clothes -on. The overhead track is far more convenient than the floor wheels upon -which some racks pull out, as the floor, should it be uneven, will -prevent ease of operation of the racks and annoyance will ensue. Single -dryers can be bought with two racks only 23″ or so wide for smaller -rooms. - -These cabinets can be sunk flush in the wall and take up no more room if -the building is so constructed or lie against or at right angles to the -wall. The heat does not permeate the room in well-made dryers. Any stove -used in the laundry should not be in connection with the dryer. - -The dryer which really does its work should: - -1. Not overheat clothes. - -2. Not sweat them. - -3. Not turn them yellow. - -4. Thoroughly ventilate them. - -5. Remove all odors. - -6. Dry them rapidly. - -7. Make them easy to iron. - - -THEORY AND PRACTICE - -It has been imagined that sun and wind alone dry clothes but the fact is -that air is the drying medium and therefore the best dryers provide a -good circulation of air plus heat. Dry air has a tremendous love for -moisture and eats it up as a blotter eats up ink. The warmer the air the -more moisture it will hug. This would seem enough, just to bake the -clothes, but baking does not remove odors and does render them yellow; -they are unventilated and smell like the laundry, so people are prone to -say “Sun drying or nothing.” - -However, the best dryers provide for circulation of air. At its best the -air changes from 250 to 300 times an hour. The air must change, for -after one lot of air holds all the moisture it can, it cannot take any -more from the clothes, and new arid air must be substituted for that -which is moisture-fed. This is accomplished by a moist air exhaust in -the newer dryers, which are larger than the older types. The result is -white, odorless, air-swept clothing. - -The stream of air is usually accomplished by the use of ordinary chimney -draft assisted by the warm products of heating from the heater. The hot -air products of combustion pass through a tapered nozzle into the moist -air exhaust pipe, and by the speed a suction is created which helps to -pull the moist air out of the cabinet and up the chimney. - -When you buy a dryer see to it that the exhaust pipe is large so that -you will have wind and heat instead of just heat. Air circulation is -what you are really buying. See that you get it. - - -SUPERFICIAL POINTS - -All parts upon which clothes hang should be non-rusting. - -The racks must pull out without any expenditure of strength and must run -quietly. - -Racks must be within the reach of the average sized woman, to avoid -stretching. - -The heating burner must be simple and easily reached so that you can -tell at a glance how much heat you have turned on. - -There must be ample screening so that should a garment fall it cannot -possibly get scorched. - -The finish of these dryers must be smooth, without protuberances which -could in any case tear the garments to be dried. - -Dryers are best heated with gas, electricity or kerosene. Care must be -given to get the best kerosene burner as they are troublesome when not -perfection. - -Dryers are simple to operate, and you are saved: (1) tugging clothes to -roof or yard; (2) putting up a wash-line; (3) fastening clothes and -tearing them with clothes-pins; (4) carrying heavy baskets anywhere; (5) -sprinkling and rolling clothes, because you keep them drying only long -enough to be ready to iron; (6) the wear and tear from the exposure to -dust, sunburn, fading, snow and other outdoor contaminations. - - -ELECTRICITY OR NONE - -A very good little dryer, simple as a broiler, is the over-head slatted -dryer, which, on a pulley, is spread with clothes and pulled up to the -ceiling where the clothes dry by the risen heat of the room. - -In a small kitchen where the washing and cooking is done, it is a real -boon, and in the laundry, too, it is a genuine convenience. - -The rack is about 32″ to 64″, and on the ceiling it is comfortable and -useful and out of the way. It comes in two sizes. - -Your clothes go directly from the wringer to the rack as in the big -dryers, you obviate unnecessary handling, clothes-pin destruction, etc. - -It can be pulled down to your own level and hitched on a wall pin so as -to make it reliably firm while you load it. - - -TABLES AND SHELVES - -Shelves in a laundry are very much more useful than a quarter of a dozen -tables or to buy two or three tables for laundries and abandon them for -needed foot room, yet long for some room to put things on. - -The steel unit of shelves is a very convenient way out. By using a -continuous running shelf, like an amplified plate rail, any place in the -laundry can be a handy one for placing a bit of soap, a clothes-pin, -washing powder, clothing waiting for starching, or any other thing. -Steps could be saved and wit conserved. - -Tables are a necessity, especially the large 7′ table or smaller. The -wooden one for a laundry is quite useful and so also is the all-metal -table. But too many tables spoil the temper, and the shelf is a comfort. - -They should be from 31 to 38 inches high, if possible adjustable. The -tops are most satisfactory in a non-porous porcelain or porcelain -enamel. Some people like hard wood or metal. - - -IRONING BOARDS - -There are many varieties of ironing boards on the market. Some fold back -against the wall and some do not. Some fold back in self closets against -the wall. Some are adjustable to different heights, others are not. They -come in various sizes and finishes and do away with the falling and -slipping ironing board which has caused so many useless burns. - -In large houses the valets have tables such as you can purchase with -sleeve boards, swinging bodyguard, supply cabinet for cleaning fluids -and brushes, and with electric iron equipment, snap switches and -automatic signal pilot lamps for each iron. These tables are made of -seasoned pine painted white. Legs, underbody, cabinet, brackets and cord -supporters are in silver bronze paint. The boards are covered with the -best quality felt. Unbleached muslin makes a good covering for any -ironing board and is generally used. - -The ironing board is indispensable for fancy things, even when the -ironing machine is regularly used. - - -A BURNING SHAME - -When un-electric irons are used, there should be an ample supply of iron -holders. If your irons are not of the removable insulated handle type, -iron holders of ticking or soft bits of carpet can be used. This sounds -very elementary, but many scorchings would not have taken place had the -laundress not rushed to get through to save the hurting hand. - -This is truly a burning shame if anything could so be called. It is -possible, too, to get a thin bit of asbestos encased in a bit of ticking -and so protect the laundress from discomfort and your clothing from -destruction. - -These iron holders could be made by the children of the house who are -always looking for something that they can make to give to Mother, -Auntie or Grandma. - - -THE LAUNDRY CHUTE - -Much time could be saved in the laundry if whenever it were possible a -chute could be built into which clothes can be thrown and go directly to -the laundry where is situated a basket or a terminal closet to receive -them. Here stuffing the dumb waiter is obviated, also carrying the -clothes in baskets down the lift or just using the ugly clothes hamper -in dressing room or bath room. Here is a more or less suggestive plan of -arrangement. - - -ARRANGEMENT - - _Assuring less expenditure in labor and money._ - -1. Soiled linen chute in one corner of the room. - -2. A table near to sort laundry before washing. - -3. Tubs in center of the room to be accessible. - -4. After clothes are washed and blued they can be partially dried in -dryer and ironed. - -5. Then a table on which to place clothes to be ironed. - -6. Ironer next in the best light possible and arranged away from wall to -permit two people working at it, if necessary. - -7. Skirt and sleeve board next. - -8. After which another skirt and sleeve board or a valet table or -another plain table. - -Some people keep a sewing table in the laundry but it is easier to have -the sewing done in the sewing room and away from the laundry work. -Because the different maids might much better stay in their own -territory and failing maids it’s easier to keep your threads any place -but _in_ a laundry. - - -FLAT IRONS - -Because there are some dainty things that cannot be put through a -machine, electric flatirons are absolutely indispensable in a laundry. -For that reason there are many kinds on the market. They are usually -made from 2¹⁄₂ ℔s. to 15 ℔s. Most have but one heat, but some have three -heats. A traveler will be pleased with the adjustable 3 lb. iron which -has a voltage adjustment making it practical with 220 or 110 voltage. - - -SOAPS AND POWDERS - -With the best washing machines you get bad results if you do not use -good soaps or cleaning powders. - -There is a very good powder on the market which not only cleans the -clothes well, and leaves no greasy residue, but is really not a soap at -all. It combines rapidly with water, and makes a fine suds and cleans -very rapidly. - -For the most part to-day, yellow soaps and white soaps as cleaners are -on a par but are not as good for laundry purposes, since the resin in -the yellow soap combines unhappily with your clothes. - -White soaps are best, if you want good results. - -Another delightful new thing on the market is the starch which does not -starch but which imparts a gloss and resistance without a stiffness. -This will come as a boon to many women who do not want their lingeries -stiff but do want it to look as a starched bit of linen does. In the -same way as starch this composition permits the lingerie to stand up -longer under use. - -The foregoing is just a group of ideas in concrete form to add to the -comfort of laundry days. They can be passed on to friends as ideas, -even ideals, or as practical, concrete gifts. - -All three or any would be acceptable to the thinking housekeeper who -wants one hundred and one things done better than a man can do one thing -well. So all aids in the home are worth not only considering but -investigating with eye and ear as well as heart and soul. - - -TO AVOID BLOW-OUTS - -Perhaps more money is wasted on blow-outs in homes that utilize -electricity than any other cause. If you follow the rules, illustrated -here and first published by the Edison Company, not only will you save -expense in the home, but you will save the Fire Department, which is -constantly called upon to save lives and property because of unnecessary -fires due to carelessness (Not to electricity) in handling flat irons. - -The cardinal principle for the use of all electrical appliances is this: -When you are not continuously using any device, shut off the current. To -do this, entirely disconnect the flatiron, curling iron or whatever the -device may be, by pulling out the plug. Do not be content with turning -off the current at the lamp socket. It is absolutely necessary that the -current be completely cut off when the iron is not in constant use. -Sometimes the current has been inadvertently turned on when the flatiron -has been left connected at the lamp socket, and material has been badly -scorched or even more serious damage has resulted. An electric coil for -heating water has caused fire when carelessly left near inflammable -material. In like manner a connected curling iron when heedlessly placed -on a bureau scarf has also caused damage. Remember the invariable rule -for the use of all electrical appliances--pull out the plug to -disconnect when not using. - - -L’ENVOIE - -Go to the best dealer. - -Buy the best only; it reduces later costs. - -Simplicity, safety and serviceability necessary. - -Avoid machinery with extra parts to be cleaned or upon which injury to -attendant or clothes can be perpetrated. - -Don’t buy until you are perfectly sure by numerous comparisons and other -experience what are the best types of machinery to install. Be sure to -apply the three S tests: Service, Safety, Simplicity. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -THE PORTABLE VACUUM CLEANER - - -“I have seen ten vacuum cleaners at the Electrical Show and every one, -according to the salesman, is the best on the market! I want one, but -which one shall I buy? It’s most confusing!” - -This was said to me no less than ten times. - -The answer is: that you must find out in the same way as you found out -about your motor car before buying it. You didn’t buy your car because a -salesman said it was a good car and because he made you sign a slip and -because he promised you, as he departed, a quick delivery. - -No, indeed, you tried out the car first or last and you asked your -friends, who had purchased the same make, how they liked it and you -talked a lot about cost of upkeep, efficiency, wear and economy and the -service possible to be had from the makers. Didn’t you? Well, the same -process is necessary in buying a vacuum cleaner or any other piece of -machinery for the house and every Domiologist knows this to be a fact. - - -“ALL IS NOT GOLD, ETC.” - -All vacuum cleaners look charming and shiny and all seem very perfect in -the shop! And they all do their stunts beautifully as the skilled -operator thrillingly draws designs in the flour or bi-carbonate (clean, -unclinging dirt) on the patient carpet. The operator talks glibly, -often failing to give the failings of his machine because he doesn’t -know them. So the only thing to do is to try it, in your own home, under -your own special conditions, and see that it gets under your furniture, -removes threads, lint, hair, dust, matches and other substances with the -least possible noise (for noise wears on the operator’s nerves and -raises a dislike for the cleaner) and the least possible effort. - -It must be light weight, easy to operate and economical and durable. -There is nothing so hard to remove as “natural born dust.” It becomes -imbedded in the carpet and it takes force to remove it and the sort of -force that will not destroy. - -Taking up the differences in the various machines, it is the better part -of valor to know what the nature of our prey is before we start to hunt! -So we will examine the animal dust in its hunting-grounds. - - -DUST’S HUNTING GROUNDS - -In your home you have on the floor woolen or grass fabrics; rugs large -and small, and carpets, grass rugs and mattings. The carpets or rugs may -have a long nap loosely woven (Chinese) Axminster, Wilton, Velvet -Chenille or the pile in loops (Brussels) or just woven threads such as -ingrain without any nap or pile. Grass rugs (Crex, etc.) and matting are -of this kind. - -It is easily understood that, as the carpet or flooring is walked on, -the dust becomes deeply imbedded and gets tangled up in the fibres, and -that surface sweeping never can take out the dust and you have to send -carpets each year to the cleaners to restore their color, etc. - -Above the floors are, of course, the hangings, mattresses, books, -pictures, moldings, ceilings and walls. As to the dust and the litter, -such as matches, hair, lint, collects, 85%-90% of it gathers on the -floor, and 10%-15% in the rest of the room. Therefore the cleaning is -reduced on the upper regions if the floor is kept really clean. - -Of all dirt considering the surface dust not walked on that blows in on -clothing, etc., litter, threads, hair, lint, and pieces of paper, -imbedded dirt, grit tracked in and entangling itself in the carpet, the -worst of these, of course, is the hair and lint and grit. These are hard -to remove but they must be taken out, especially the grit, which is the -destructive agent in dirt. In the Oriental regions, where the street -shoes are left on the door-step, the vacuum cleaner might seem useless. - -The carpet doesn’t wear out so much from the top as it does by being cut -from the roots by the stamping in of the cutting grit. Therefore, the -vacuum cleaner has been invented to save the carpet, and not only to -destroy the carpet destroying factors, but to annihilate the microbe -drawn into the house from the street on your offending shoes. - - -WE ARE THREE KINDS! - -And so ... to have the cleaner that really functions, every machine must -be constructed so that it can be easily taken apart and adjusted, and in -order to know how to know whether the machine is useful, the following -resumé of the kind of cleaners may be of service. These will be treated -in functioning classes rather than in technical terminologies. - -The portable cleaner (we will not discuss the installed types) are -divisible into three classes: - -1. Using air only as a cleaning agent - -2. Using air plus a brush - -3. Using air plus beating and sweeping brush - -First: In this class are the tank machines having vacuum pumps as well -as fans, single or multiple (many fans mounted on the motor shaft) and -the small fan portables. - -All these machines are on the same principle, having the motor, fans or -pumps for moving the air, a dust bag to collect the dirt, and the hose -in the tank machines’ case and the extra tools. - -In the small portable machines, which we are considering, the narrow -slatted tool attached directly to the motor and the fan case is the -medium through which the dust from the floor is taken up and the hose, -as in the tank type of cleaner, is eliminated for floor work and is only -used for altitude cleaning. So the only difference in these types--the -tank and the slatted portables--is that the tool for the floor work is -directly on the motor case, in the slatted or fan portables, and on the -end of the hose in the tank types. In some machines the dust bag is -before the fan, in some behind it, in some the bag is enclosed (there -are hardly any on the market now) and in others it is hung on the -handle. [Wherever the bag is, it must be so made that it does not slip -from its mooring and spill.] The principle, however, is the same in each -case: drawing air through the tool which slides easily over the carpet, -plus the velocity of the air as the instrument upon which the cleaning -is dependent. Upon the rapidity and frequency of the passing of this -machine over the carpet depends the thoroughness of the cleaning -operation. - -When the carrier wheels are on either side of the nozzle or just back of -it, keeping the nozzle slightly above the carpet, the operator, if -skilful, can do a good job. - -Second: Using air plus a brush: The brushes are used as follows:--(1) -Straight bristle brush (looks like a comb of bristles) attached inside -or outside of nozzle, projecting slightly below it so that it will comb -the carpet. (2) Spirally wound bristle brush fitted inside the nozzle -opening and operated by the carrier wheels, either with a belt or gears. -This brush moves in the opposite direction to that in which the cleaner -is pushed, and takes up the lint and hair, etc. - - -AS TO MOTIVE POWER - -Motor driven brushes are driven by a belt attached to the motor. It is -continually in action when the motor is running except, of course, when -the brush is removed for any reason. The surface is continuously swept -as the air passes through the nozzle, and there is, of course, more -power in the motor driven brush. But its enemies in the friction brush -camp aver strongly that the brush is prone by its velocity to wear the -carpet! These brushes generally have two rows of spirally wound bristle, -and in this type you get away from the old-time carpet sweeper where -lint and threads adhere for a long time to the bristles and often return -again to the carpet. - -Third: Using air with beating and sweeping. These sweepers have a large -brush in a large nozzle and the brushes are spirally wound in two rows -with a simple belt connection to the motor. These machines are generally -adjusted so that the nozzle is about ¹⁄₄″ above the carpet. The bristles -extend enough below the nozzle so that the bristles push away the carpet -as the air draws it up. This gives the shaking motion at the same time -the bristles, coming down at an angle on the carpet, beat it and passing -through the nap comb and sweep it automatically. The bristles comb the -nap and the air, passing through, cleans the carpet and the imbedded -dirt is loosened by the shaking. The surface litter and hair is swept -up and it cleans efficiently by applying all the laws of cleaning at the -same time. - -Of course, with the cleaner come tools for altitude cleaning, for -blowing out dust from books, moldings, upholstery tuftings, etc., etc. -The extra tools are absolutely necessary and it is well to remember that -the price is generally given you without the extra $7 to $10 being -added. Tools are made of aluminum steel and fibre, which means that they -are durable and will withstand much wear and tear. - -If you should own the best vacuum cleaner in the world and take no care -of it, it would be as if you had none. Every bit of machinery that was -ever or will ever be made needs care. Any mechanism “acts up” if -neglected. It is true, that the vacuum cleaner needs very little care, -probably oiling once a month and the removal of the dust after every -cleaning operation. The oiling is easy to understand, but the reason for -removing the dust after every operation is: that, if the dust bags clog -up, the egress of the air is impeded, and therefore the action of the -motor is impeded, and the fan’s speed is diminished, causing a decrease -in velocity and air supply which is what makes the cleaner more useful -than a broom. - -Do not be fooled by big talk and glib printed matter about high vacuum -power, and long air and water columns. What is needed for a good cleaner -is air displacement at a sufficiently concentrated point or surface to -maintain a high air velocity. A vacuum cleaner might show in a technical -test a tremendous vacuum and when used on the carpet the nozzle be so -constructed as to mitigate the power of the suction so created and, -therefore, be ineffectual as a cleaner. Therefore, the salesman can talk -glibly to the uninformed about vacuums and tests and never say “but our -nozzle is so large or so high or so low that the air intake is bad.” - -Too much vacuum often makes the machine heavy by sucking too heavily -upon the carpets. Of course, raising the nozzle here will help this -fault. - - -MOTORS! - -Another battling point is the question of whether the motor put in -horizontally into the casting or that which is put in vertically is the -better. They all talk glibly on this subject, but heed it not. All that -is necessary for the purchaser of a cleaner to know about the motor is -that it should be made by a reputable firm, have a good speed that is -spectacular and that it be not imbedded too deeply in unnecessary -fixings to be oiled and cleaned. - -The universal motor is best for the average purchaser as it works well -on indirect or direct current, whichever is supplied to you in your -neighborhood. Nearly every cleaner employs a universal motor. - -Every vacuum cleaner manufacturer has some point of his own that makes -him the most delightful of talkers. Here are some very useful devices -which are worthy of mention, but for the most part are matters for -individual choice: - - The enclosed dust bag. - - Steel motor case. - - Nickled steel motor case. - - Aluminum motor case. - - Wheel bearings inside the nozzle. - - Wheel bearings outside the nozzle. - - Detachable nozzle. - - Air cooled motor (most motors are cooled by in and outgoing air). - - Dust bag on top of the handle shaft. - - Adjustment with nut for stair cleaning. - - Self adjustment to keep handle erect when released from holding (very - convenient). - - Automatic current cut off. - - Extra roomy hooks for electric cord on the handle. - - Oil cups protected from dust (should be always). - - And general attachments made as simple as possible. - - Dust bag lined and sometimes partitioned. - - Dust bag easy to put on and take off with a collar to hold between the - soles of shoes to empty without making dust escape. - - Automatic closing valve where dust bag collar comes off--to prevent - dust flying back into motor casing. - - Rubber bumper to protect furniture. - - -REQUISITE QUALITIES - -In short, the satisfactory cleaner must: - -1. Sweep loose the adhering dirt such as thread, lint, dust particle, -and brush up matted nap or pile to restore color tone. - -2. Loosen and shake to the surface ground-in dirt that kills rugs and -carpets, so that it can be removed. - -3. Have suction enough to carry away all dirt after the soft hair brush -loosens it to make it possible. - -This is about the whole story. And as to the expense of operation, they -cost not even as much as an electric iron, and far less than the cost of -extra cleaning folk to-day. Cleaning becomes interesting and the -household without a maid or with one, saves time and money. The rugs can -be cleaned at home and stored at home in the summer. Here you save -summer’s many costs! Cleaning becomes almost a pleasure, at least a -pleasanter performance, not a bug-bear--or in this case we might say--a -rug-bear! It is an economy, a comfort and a gold lined investment in -which the interest is health, money saved, and fabrics preserved. Could -you ask for more in a sweeper? - -But don’t expect miracles. The vacuum cleaner needs slight pushing over -the floor--it can’t roll by itself. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -A PIPE DREAM - - -As soon as you get accustomed to the intricacies of one method of doing -anything to-day, something new crops up. This is probably more true in -the realm of housekeeping than in any other except that of military -science. You have no sooner mastered the points of what not to do and -what you should do with portable vacuum cleaners than up comes the -stationary vacuum cleaner and you have to know about it, too. And so -this article after one on the portable cleaner. If you forget the -technicalities see Chapter IV. - -To refresh your memory, every vacuum cleaner has five elements: - - 1. Air producer (vacuum is a misnomer): the pump or fan series - employed to create the air current. - - 2. Dust collector: bag, box, pail, etc. - - 3. Dust conduit: piping. - - 4. Cleaning tool: brush, felt, etc., etc. - - 5. Human direction: the hand that steers. - -The portable type of cleaner has the first four parts mounted on one -unit, so that the whole machine is moved in its chase for the enemy -Dust. Besides this the electric wire must be applied to an electric -connection in a baseboard or electric fixture. - -In the case of the stationary cleaner, the mechanism is larger and the -air producer and dust collector are in the cellar or basement, and the -dust conduit impartially spreads itself throughout the house through -walls and ceilings and politely connects at convenient intervals with -the cleaning tool, via the agency of the vents in baseboards. With this -cleaner the only thing that is manipulated by the worker is the cleaning -tool which “bites the dust.” - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of American Radiator Co._ - -LOOKING FOR THE DUST WHICH WAS SUCKED DOWN FROM ABOVE STAIRS!] - - -PROS AND CONS - -But why should you have the installed cleaner? Why not have the -portable? The fact is that neither of these cleaners is in competition -very directly. But let us quote an expert who has given most of his time -to the subject of air cleaning: - -“There is unquestionably a legitimate field for both types of cleaners, -but the stationary type more nearly reaches the ideal.” The next -statement of his will explain that: “If we observe the action of the -wind in an open field, we find that a gentle breeze will move light -material.... If the breeze changes to a hurricane, we find that the -moving air has the power ... to move anything in its path, including -fences, trees, houses, etc.” - -Therefore in considering purchasing a cleaner you must ask yourself -first: “Do I want a gentle breeze or a little hurricane in my home? -That’s the first and foremost question! Is my home large enough to -afford the much more expensive plant which makes the hurricane, at a -higher running cost; or isn’t the portable just the thing I need because -of its various adaptabilities and small running and installation costs?” - -It has been held against the installed vacuum cleaner that it is-- - -1. Expensive. - -2. Unusual skill must be employed in installation. - -3. Suction is altered by length of pipe. - -4. Cost of operation is high. - -5. Wear and tear on the house too great. - -6. It must be installed when the house is built. - -Of course the stationary type is more expensive than the portables, -because of the larger machine, the indefinitely long pipe system and the -larger motor. The motor has from six to twelve times and upwards the -horsepower of the portable machine. It is, therefore, more costly to run -because it eats up more electricity, but it can do heavier work and -quicker. - -Great skill must be employed in the installation of all machinery. Not -long ago mistakes were made when putting in the air system, but now -engineers know this department of work as well as they know gas and -electric installations, and with the length of hose used there is no -lessening of suction because of the construction of the entire pipeage. - -The objection that with this apparatus there is tremendous wear and tear -because the hose is taken through the doorway from the hall so that the -door must needs be scratched when it closes on the hose as it is dragged -through, may be nullified by installing double end hose connections in -the wall near the door so that one line of hose will connect from the -valve to the connection in the hall and another shorter piece of hose -used inside of the room. - -There is no trouble at all about installing the stationary vacuum -cleaner after the building is erected, but naturally it is less -expensive to put it in during the building and when planned for ahead -than it is to put pipes through a house after it is built. - - -OPERATION - -With the stationary type cleaner you have no machine to move about--you -simply move the tool attached to the hose and the tools are just as -light as those of the portable machines. There is no electric connection -to make, no electric wire to carry unconsciously along. All there is to -be done by the worker is to slip the end of the cleaner hose into the -suction pipe opening in the baseboard of the room. A patented device -prevents the hose from becoming detached accidentally. - -The usual tools come with the installed cleaner, such as handle, blower, -felted sweeper, book cleaner, duster, etc. Other tools can be made to -order to fit any particular need. - -One thing delightfully obviated in the stationary cleaner is the noise. -The writer has what she considers the best portable cleaner on the -market, yet the noise is a great drawback. The stationary cleaner is -therefore a boon to the sick room and it is easy to see why the newer -hospitals take as readily to them as to the piped water system. - -Then, too, having the baseboard vent in each area in large houses, with -the consequent needlessness of carrying a cleaner upstairs and down, -over hill and dale, is a selling point for the piped cleaner. Also the -swiftness of the cleaning, due of course to the tremendous air -velocity--a canned hurricane. However, in the small residence the -greater cost would be unwarranted because of the great efficiency of the -portable machines. - -Where there is a garage in the family, and it is piped for cleaning, the -machinery, instead of being permanently installed, can be mounted on -rollers and can be wheeled and attached to the pipes in that building. -Therefore the necessity of two machines is obviated where the other -building is piped. - -Yet when the buildings are widely separated it is best to have one of -the good portable machines which are on the market in so many designs, -and are adapted to so many and varied uses. Therefore you see the -portables as indispensable and see them filling fields that the -installed can never hope to fill. - -The fact that the stationary entails no dust-bag cleaning is a time and -labor-saving actuality. Then, too, no matter how good the dust bag is on -the portable vacuum cleaner, some of the very fine dust must escape -through the bag into the room. In the stationary type the cleaner -politely does its exhaling in the cellar. This point has been made -valuable to chocolate makers who want to save the loss of chocolate in -packing boxes, to manufacturers who want to obviate the retaining of -poisonous dust among the workers, etc., etc. - -In the stationary as well as in the portable vacuum cleaners the suction -is caused by the pump or fan type machine. Some manufacturers advocate -one, some another. In picking your winner you must go to the best -manufacturer of each type and let him give you his tale, and then see -whether you come out a pump fan or a fan fan! - -The other intricacies of this simple machine need not bother you. Go to -the best makers and make them responsible for your purchase. Not all of -us being engineers, you have to depend on the reputation of the best -makers. - -The stationary cleaner can do more work than the portable, it will last -longer because the machinery is heavier, yet there are drawbacks to it -as to all machinery which is not at all points open to the eye. For -example, the pipes may clog. But you must remember that water pipes can -clog and that gas pipes do very exasperating things; yet you use them -without blinking. - -For the very large residence, factory, hospital, hotel and institution, -of course the stationary machine is best, mainly because it is difficult -to get help to-day to carry about the premises anything that is heavy. -To lift, push or carry the lightest portable over a very large -residence or institution is a trial, and the stationary type overcomes -this difficulty. - -In some cases the heavy duty portable is advised with its increased -horsepower, but when the purse and area of residence match, the -stationary type is really the best, although we know householders who -prefer to use the portable and heavy duty portables everywhere. - -The stationary plant is only another real “pipe dream” come true, and in -addition to piped water, piped gas and conduited electricity it will -tend to hasten the processes of home maintenance and free the -home-keepers to do more spiritual home tending. - -But remember that in the average home or apartment the portable machine -is the ideal sweeper and fulfills more than every requirement of -sanitary sweeping combined with the least effort. The stationary is for -the large house, not the small. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -COOKING BY ELECTRIC CURRENT - - -The electric stove is the most dependent on geography of all your -kitchen implements. Because it consumes a large amount of electricity, -the rate of this as a fuel will decide whether or not you can use the -electricity-consuming stove. This decision, in turn, is affected by the -rate of electricity for cooking in every different locality in the -country. - -The vogue of the electric stove is due to the convenience and sureness -with which the cooking is done, the control which may be exercised and -the positiveness of results. Furthermore, the cleanliness, lack of odors -and gases, and the easy installation and convenience of placing are -other important reasons why the electric stove has come to stay, if -electric companies co-operate with the stove companies to give a cooking -rate. - -Its vogue, too, is largely due from the fact that in the maidless home -housekeepers find electricity simpler, cooler and cleaner, if more -expensive and not quite as rapid as gas. - - -POINTS ABOUT THE STOVES - -As with the gas and wood stove, the main principles must apply in -picking them out, with but few additions and omissions. The electric -stove is not bothered with its own deterioration by the combustion -inside it of oils, woods, coals, cokes, etc., but has, of course, to be -well wired, rust protected and insulated against mishap and fire. -Accidents are contingent on anything that uses any fuel. With electric -stoves it is unnecessary to have large or small storage systems, which -makes electricity a convenient fuel for the small “rabbit hutches,” in -which the wealthiest and poorest are forced to live in these days of -homelessness. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Estate Stove Co._ - -THREE LITTLE FINGERS FIT IN THREE LITTLE HOLES AND THE CONNECTION IS -MADE] - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Bramhall Deane Co._ - -HERE THE STOVE LID IS SET ON A LITTLE ROUND PLATFORM ALREADY ATTACHED -AND EASILY DISENGAGED - -ELECTRIC RANGE] - -Then again, if you employ electricity, whether it is more costly or not, -you do not have to put in so strenuous a flue system when building a -house, but just a hood over the stove as a vent to carry off cooking -odors and a special wiring system. You do away, too, with the draughts -necessary for coal or wood types and all the contingent engineering -niceties, which harass and wear you if they are not perfection. - -The body of the stove should be built of non-rusting iron. Armco -rust-resisting iron is often used in the best grades of stoves. It is -free from impurities which invite corrosion and rust and has proved a -valuable material out of which to make a good stove body. On some stoves -the tops are made of gray iron castings which, with the black body and -its polished iron trimmings, make a very stately and harmonious article -without sacrificing anything of practical utility. - -The top of any stove is the place upon which are placed the utensils for -frying, boiling, etc. This is true whether the fuel be coal, gas, -electricity or what-not. - -The top of the electric stove is no variant to this rule. It has the -spots upon which to place the utensils and these spots are called the -heating units. Heat, of course, is communicated in varying degrees -between the units. These units are of cast or wrought iron. The tops of -any electric stove must be of cast iron or some such non-warping rigid -material which takes readily to cleaning. The heating element should be -safe from molestations and the top of the stove must be smoothness -itself to hold the utensils with perfect ease and steadiness. The units’ -wire connection must be enclosed to protect the heating element. The top -of the usual electric stove has about four cooking “holes” or plates, or -heating elements. In some cases the electric connection is made by the -heating units being equipped with pluglike sets or fingers (as your -ordinary lamp plug) and fitting into a socket under itself. In other -cases, if it be a three-heat stove, the three wires are directly -connected with the heating element and all that has to be done in case -of bad connection is to raise the heating element and unscrew the wires. -In other styles when bad connection occurs you must search the surface -beneath the plug, a little more complicated operation, but still the -manufacturers of this feel that it is an added protection to wiring. - -The surface units, too, must come off easily so that no extra tool is -needed to pick them up. - - -OVENS AND BROILERS - -There are two kinds of ovens used in the electric stove, from the point -of view of heat retention. One of them does not retain the heat -completely enough to call itself a fireless cooker oven yet does retain -heat to a great degree and cooks well after a little time on the third -heat or low heat. The other style guarantees a fireless system of -cooking when the electricity is cut off. - -Strange as it may seem, the largest and most elaborate and the most -expensive stoves are not made with the retention-heat method because, no -doubt, the persons that can pay about $1000 or even $700 for a stove -have chefs and don’t really care whether they use more or less -electricity. - -For ordinary use, however, and for the large stove which costs to-day -around $140 to $225, it is well to have the retained-heat oven, the oven -so insulated as to keep in the heat and keep out the cold, so that you -can cook easily by fireless and save much electricity. - -The oven should be equipped with top and floor heating units. These -should be controlled by a three-heat switch and so geared and wired as -to be accessible. If one unit burns out the others will not. - -In some stoves the heating unit in the top of the bake oven is -controlled by the same switch which operates the units in the oven -bottom and is of proper intensity to insure good results. - -Often this same unit also serves the broiler. In other cases the broiler -is supplied by an “on and off” switch alone and it is only made in -conjunction with the broiler. In still other stoves the three-heat -broiler with separate switch is employed. - -The broiler must be heavily tinned to prevent rust and corrosion and it -must have a removable drip pan. In one stove on the market, which has -the broiler to the left on the top, the drip pan is fastened to the -broiler so that when it is drawn out over the stove for any reason the -drippings are caught by the pan and not spattered on the stove top -beneath. This is a minor perfection but a very nice one. - -Some range companies make a unit of a certain size, say “24” or “48,” -and if you want a larger size you can simply say “I want two units”--or -three, or what not. There are small stoves for yachts and kitchenettes; -in fact, the electric stove is as adaptable as a telescope, some have -ovens above, some have ovens below, some have broilers above, some -below. Some have everything above, some everything below. You can have -exactly what you want as to price and style. Some stoves are also -equipped with practical plate and food warmers. - -One very pleasing stove is called a period stove because it has legs -that curve and cavort like a period bit of furniture--what period we -couldn’t say unless it be early Edison. - -Then, too, there are combination coal and electric ranges, for there are -those persons who must have both--and as they are beautifully combined -they make a neat and effective unit in the kitchen. - -There are portable stoves and stoves that are built-in; that is, the -stove that can be very simply moved from place to place if necessary, -and the one that is backed into the wall and would leave a scar if it -were moved. Of course the huge stoves are of the built-in type, but -they, too, come with legs and are better adapted to removal. - - -ELECTRIC MEASUREMENTS - -For these electric stoves, special wiring must be effected. They cannot -be attached to the ordinary electric socket. It is necessary when -ordering a stove to give the voltage of your electric supply. The stoves -are usually prepared for 110 volts with two-wire service from street or -110-220 volts with three-wire service. In some stoves the cut-out box is -built on the range directly back of the switches. This, then, can be -easily opened if anything happens. In the stock stove an extra charge is -made for voltage exceeding 220 or less than 110, because alterations -have to be made. - -The consumption of watts in the electric stove is a very vital question. -Watts are the unit of electric power, just as you speak of 50 cubic feet -of gas in measuring gas consumption. The unit of figuring the cost is -not on the watt--because a watt is too small a figure but of the unit -of one thousand watts, which is the kilowatt. So you call the unit of -fuel consumption the kilowatt hour and you say the average stove -consumes about one kilowatt hour per person per day. If a burner -consumes 800 watts it means you will be charged ⁸⁰⁰⁄₁₀₀₀ of a kilowatt -per hour. - -According to the size of heating elements, the wattage of stoves runs -from 10,000 watts or 10 kilowatts (which is the same thing) to about -2500 watts, or 2¹⁄₂ kilowatts on a small three-heating-unit range. This -gives its total capacity if everything goes at once. - -It is a little more intelligent for the housewife to read her meter than -not to. So here is how it is done: There are four little dials, which -you read from right to left, the opposite manner of reading this page. -The first dial measures the tens, the second the hundreds, the third the -thousands, the fourth the ten thousands. Therefore, the total is found -by adding all the figures at which the dials point and always reading -the lowest number which the dial approximates. But you must always -substract your last month’s record from this, of course, to get this -month’s average; and this amount multiplied by your electricity rate -would give you what your bill should be. - -After all, the cost is the paramount thing in your purchasing and -calculations as to purchasing. The electric stove is, on the whole, more -expensive than the ordinary cook stove. The fuel cost varies, as has -been said before, with the locality in which you happen to live. - -In many places the electric companies have made a cooking rate much -lower than the lighting rate. In such localities where the electricity -is but from 1¹⁄₂ to 2 cents, the electricity as fuel is almost equal in -cost to gas at one dollar. It has been generally admitted that, with -care as to fuel consumption, a kilowatt hour per day is consumed by -each individual in the house. If you have to pay three cents per -kilowatt hour and you have six persons in the house, your electricity -will cost you about eighteen cents per day. In the large, weighty and -“watty” stoves the consumption of electricity is about 2 kilowatt-hours -per day per person, but on the stock ranges not weighing over 300 pounds -with a comparative low wattage (compared with the 1200-pound -made-to-order range) the average is, as was said before, but one -kilowatt-hour per person per day. One firm, computing 4.2 persons to -average a family, states that in the use of 26,180 ranges the cost was -$4.06¹⁄₄ per month per family. - -The value of electric cooking is not in the low cost of fuel but in the -saving of labor, food conservation, cleanliness, comfort and mental or -psychological delight in the shipshape and orderly method. - -In cities where the cooking rate is the same as the lighting rate -(around seven cents) cooking by electricity is expensive for the average -folk who have to think a little about the cost of living. - -It has been said that electric cooking is expensive because it takes -longer to cook by it than by gas. This is being overcome in three ways: -first, by the proper use of electricity and the turning it off and -cooking on retained heat; secondly, by the better made stove in use -to-day; thirdly, by the use of proper sized and shaped utensils which -are a very great factor in the rapidity of cooking and thence economy of -electricity as a fuel. - - -CONTROL AND TRIMMINGS - -Most stoves are equipped with reliable thermometers and also many give -charts with the stove to show you exactly what temperatures on that -particular stove will accomplish the pop-over, the roast, or the -what-not. This eliminates any basis of error. Some, too, have glass -ovens which further add to the gaiety of rations. - -In buying, buy of the best firms, get guarantees, see that your wiring -is adequate and that everything is well insulated with asbestos or -something of equal value. - -See to it that your oven doors close without slamming; that when they -are open they won’t bend if a weight is put on them. We have seen one -stove stand the weight of a man jumping on the stove oven door when it -was lowered. Many a good cake has been ruined by banging oven doors. - -The switches should be conveniently placed and not off in some corner. -The fuses should be back-side or back of range, as they are not -particularly beautiful to gaze upon and one is apt to take them for -switches when rushed. But few stoves now put the fuses in the front. The -fuses should be so connected that if one blows out all do not. - -There is a stove on the market at present that has a fireless cooking -timing device, so that when you go to bed, you can have your breakfast -all cooked for you (if you have stocked the stove before retiring) at -any time in the morning at which you have set the clock. This you may -consider a trimming, but it is a nice bit of modern life’s embroidery. - -In most of the stoves the fireless cooking saves time and saves your -food. Basting is unnecessary; you get what you pay for in weight of the -roast and lose less than by any other process of cookery. In some stoves -twelve or fifteen minutes of electricity are all that is needed; stored -heat then does the work. - - -DIMENSIONS AND CARE - -The heights in stoves vary from a few inches (table ranges) to about 5′. -Height to cooking top varies, too; the nearest it comes to 38″ the more -comfortable, of course. The new stoves are being made with special -emphasis on the height of cooking surfaces. - -The depth of stoves also varies, from the built-to-order stove which is -33″ to the stock stoves which run even as narrow as 16″, with but three -top cooking or heating units instead of the average four. - -As with all new devices, you must practise with the electric stove to -get the best results. The first few weeks you may think you are using -too much current. You will be, too, but you will learn better if you -take the following into your mind: - - 1. Do not overheat your oven. Never let the temperature exceed the - thermometer’s tell-tale face. - - 2. Oil your oven occasionally as you would your typewriter or - sewing-machine, for some “non-rusting” ovens go back on you. - - 3. Not only engineers but cooks often sleep at the switch. But you - mustn’t. It would be wise to have a master switch in the kitchen - connecting the range to the electric supply. In this case you can turn - off the electricity and there will be no danger of leaving a burner - turned on when not needed. The heating plate may crack if the current - is turned on without anything cooking in a utensil on top of it. - - 4. Don’t remove burners unless repair is necessary. Boiling over of - foods won’t hurt the burners. Use nothing but a light non-metallic - brush to rid the burners of spillings. If you use old utensils that - have become rich in food deposits, thoroughly scour before using on - the electric stove. The electric stove makes no deposit on utensils. - - 5. Turn down the burner when water boils. You have three heats. Turn - from high to low at boil. Your bills will come down 75%. Use as little - water as possible and by keeping the lids on you will cook by steam. - Turn your switches to low at every chance you get. Ten or fifteen - minutes before the food is cooked you can turn off current; there will - be enough heat to cook with if your utensil is covered. - - 6. When cooking roasts, in about an hour, depending on the size of - your roast, you can turn off full current on the top burner and cook - on retained heat or on medium heat of bottom burner. - - 7. For safety in expense keep one burner on at Full. Start your - cookery of each thing on Full and then shift to medium burners. This - will save electric bills, as you won’t have all your burners going - full tilt at the same time. - - 8. Flat bottom utensils at least as large as the heating space are - necessary to the economical use of the electric stove. Use as little - water as possible, thereby cooking by steam and saving food. Shallow - vessels take less heat and therefore less electricity. - - -A VERY NEW DEPARTURE - -On the market, as this goes to press has come the electric stove which, -instead of heating by radiant heat (red), cooks by conductivity or black -heat. That is, the unit becomes hot throughout and does not burn by -becoming red hot. It is claimed in this case that the unit wears longer -and that it takes less time to cook therefore less electricity. We have -not had time to test this stove so cannot vouch for it except that it -is made by very eminent manufacturers and invented by a very -distinguished expert. - -It is so built that the cleaning of it and the replacing of its parts is -done with the minimum effort. - -All switches and connections are at the back of the stove and can -therefore be kept inviolate. - -The top burner elements are made of multiple low temperature units from -one ampere in a single unit to almost unlimited amperage of say 25 -amperes, from 25 single units in parallel within a square or diameter of -8 or 9 inches. Think what flexibility of heat this means! It is just -what up to date the electric stove has lacked with its but one to three -“heats.” If one or more units burn out then there are others left! - -The stove is so geared that a fluctuation of 25 volts will make no -trouble! - -The oven arrangement and unit system are so arranged as to bake quicker -and adjustable to different size pans. - -Ideal broiling is a thing quite boasted of in this stove. - -All the units and parts are easily removable for cleaning so you will -get a prize if all the things they say of their stove are true and we -have little doubt that they are true. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Bramhall Deane Co._ - -HOOD AND STOVE HEATED BY GAS AND WOOD. NOTE THE MARBLE-TOPPED TABLES] - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -TAKING THE GUESSWORK OUT OF GAS COOKERY - - -The points in buying a gas range are for the most part the same as in -purchasing an electric range. It must be of the best material, cast iron -or sheet iron or a combination of the two, the ovens usually lined with -steel, upon which is baked aluminum or a vitreous enamel. Enamels are -more expensive but their sanitary value is great. Everything must be of -the best quality, no seams or roughness can be allowed to catch food or -odors, and the stove manufacturers must give you a guarantee of almost -everlasting life. - -Stoves to-day are made with and without shelves, some have the ovens -above, some below. But where the oven is below it is a great boon to -have the top at least 32″ high--38″ from the floor is better, so that -the oven is sufficiently high to obviate back breaking, and the cooking -surface high enough to eliminate the back bend for the ordinary cooking -processes. Ranges to-day are built so that there is absolutely no guess -work either in management or accomplishment. - - -NEW DEVICES - -A recent improvement is a stove with an oven heat-regulating device, -absolutely controlling the temperature. Because this device is used by -domestic science cooking schools, cooking must be an exact science. No -especial training is required to handle this device, and it has no -working parts to get out of order; the temperature is simply controlled -and maintained by the turn of a wheel. - -This enables you to bake without opening the oven door. A chart is -supplied by which you can cook any kind of dish, the time, the -temperature and the necessary decreasing or increasing of the -temperature being given clearly. - -One new type of stove has the smooth top. It looks not unlike a coal -stove. It has no aching voids for things to spill into, nor can pots tip -over into the yawning chasms. This saves a lot of needless irritation, -which is important with the present high temperaments of cooks and -housemaids. This stove stands 38″ from the ground. - - -THE TOP - -An interesting feature is that the whole top becomes heated and is -usable, whereas in the ordinary four-burner top only four utensils can -be used at once. This top is connected with a flue which draws the heat, -so that there is no waste of gas. If necessary, the lids can be raised -and the flame from the burner will just tip the utensil, the proper -position for flames. The oven in this range is so planned that it can be -opened from the bottom with either hand. Another stove has a top that is -semi-smooth and semi-spider, allowing you both systems. - -Should a vessel spill over in the “smooth top,” the top catches the -overflow and it is simply washed off instead of the usual pulling out of -the tray and the messed-up burner plate, which must be scraped and -cleaned. This range is made tall and narrow, ready for the small as well -as the large kitchen. - -All gas stoves to-day have the automatic lighter, which gives you -freedom from the use of matches and makes gas nearly as convenient as -electricity. Of course, gas is hotter in the summer than electricity, -and to obviate this many of the stove makers produce marvelously -contrived combination ranges of gas and electricity. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Vulcan Stove Co._ - -THE SMOOTH TOP 38″ GAS RANGE TAKES THE STOOP OUT OF STOOPID COOKERY] - -Some stoves have plate warmers above and some have a shelf open and -available on which to warm dishes, which also makes a convenient rack -for dishes while the rest of the meal is cooking. - -Nearly all stoves are equipped with broiler chamber, baking oven and -wire shelves. One, particularly convenient, has, instead of the two -full-sized shelves in the large oven, one shelf divided into two pieces, -allowing for more elasticity in placing different dishes in the oven. - -In the stove which has the oven heat-regulating device, there are many -of the fireless cooker features with some of its drawbacks eliminated. -For example, it has no thick walls which eventually become impregnated -with odors of past meals; the time in pot watching is eliminated; you -can do other work and yet be sure that your cooking is being done well. -So much of the cooking can be done in the oven that fewer burners are -necessary. This type is made in sizes varying from 35″ wide and upward. - - -REGULATING HEAT - -When you are ready to put the whole meal in the oven, your instruction -card will tell you the correct temperature to set the thermostat. You -can then leave the oven unwatched for a period of three to four hours. -No preliminary cooking is necessary; in fact, the things can be put on -in cold water if necessary; furthermore, the cost of cooking is no more, -and sometimes less, than with the old-fashioned hit or miss method. - -Canning with this oven is simplicity itself, as there is no need to lift -the big containers to the cooking surface. - -Many people prefer the fireless-cooking, oven gas stoves. These are -excellent when made by the best manufacturers and certainly help the -servantless house greatly. - -The old-fashioned methods of finding out if your oven is hot are as -follows: Poking your head into the oven, perilous; thrusting an -unoffending hand therein; browning pieces of paper or a bit of flour; -burning the gas and letting it go at that; gauging the size of the -flame: but these are unreliable, for everyone feels the heat differently -and the quality of paper varies and atmospheric conditions differ. How -many times have you cooked the same thing the same way, and have had -success one day and failure the next. What waste--and how discouraging! - -With the particular stove in question, the novice soon becomes an -expert. As much of the cooking can be done in the oven, not so large a -surface stove need be bought; a small family can actually use a -two-burner surface. - - -BURNERS - -The burners on all the best stoves are regulated by the gas companies, -from whom it is wise to buy, unless you are purchasing the installed, -made-to-order stove. - -One firm emphasizes its burner because it spreads well; it claims there -is a saving of gas, which is quite true. This stove also stresses its -glass oven door. Now the glass oven door is a fine thing, but when meats -are being cooked, the glass becomes greased, and unless cleaned off at -once may leave furrows. - -The cabinet stove is the type used practically all over this country. It -sits on high legs and has the oven (top or bottom), warmers and shelves. -The stove without shelves is not called the cabinet style. Usually the -cabinet has the ovens to right or left or below the cooking top. Some of -these stoves have a separate splasher on the side of the back wall or -the side wall; this is not absolutely necessary if the stove is so -finished that the splashing will wash off easily. Some stoves are -completely enameled, including splasher; others are just blue iron or -polished steel. Of course, there are the expensive enameled stoves which -only have to be washed for the dirt and dust to slide off. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Clark Jewel Stove Company._ - -TAKING THE GUESS WORK OUT OF OVEN TEMPERATURES BY THE USE OF AN -AUTOMATIC HEAT REGULATOR] - -The vital thing in the gas stove is the burner and its regulation. -Nothing will compensate for poor burners, poor insulation, poor heating. -Some stoves are so made that the linings come out and can be easily -washed and greased with kerosene thus keeping them in excellent -condition. But keep your ovens more than spotless. - -The gas supply pipe when installed with a stove should be not less than -³⁄₄″ bore. Some companies advise making an iron pipe connection with a -union coupling. - -The best results for the gas range would be had if connected by a stove -pipe to a chimney but great care should be taken to avoid a down shaft. -Much moisture in a stove, which will slowly destroy it, denotes this -down draft presence. Yet sometimes the flue connection is a nuisance, as -it is at other times a necessity. In some districts the flue is -necessary by ordinance. - -Top burners must be frequently cleaned and when they are removed the -drip pan can be cleaned too and the space in which the drip pan rests. -Wipe off dust from the air mixer, that is, where the air enters the -burner to make the flame cook. Grease your oven linings occasionally and -your stove will wear longer. If your stove happens to have a porcelain -enameled broiler pan, take it out when not broiling in that oven. - - -RANGE FACTS - -Don’t use a big flame when food or water is boiling. Nearly all the good -stoves have air and gas regulating devices and with each stove the -method is explained to the purchaser. Remember that you want a blue -flame, that the tip only should touch the utensil and that the yellow -flame may mean too much gas and cause smoking or it may mean too little -air. Keep your flame at the blue point, with no yellow or white tip. - -Before lighting any burner, try all the gas valves to be sure that they -are closed and that there is no gas in the range. If the burners pop out -close partly the air mixers. - -The simmering burner on the new stoves is a great convenience and -economy, if the burner is perfectly regulated. In most cases the air -mixer must be nearly closed. - -Cakes bake unevenly perhaps if they are set too near the front of the -oven. Be sure to put them at least in the center or better near the -back. - -To prevent fish from burning while broiling or baking, grease the -gridiron. In broiling steak, if it is thick, place it 1″ from the flame. -If not thick 2″ or 3″. Keep the broiler door open while broiling. Heat -the oven for ten or fifteen minutes with the door shut before putting -the meat or fish in to broil. - -Remember the tip of the blue flame is sufficient to cook; any other -flame condition spells waste. - -When your burners do not light, they are probably grease clogged. Remove -them and boil them in a solution of washing soda. - -Turn down the flame when the substance begins to boil. - -Unusual cooking capacity in a small space is really one of the great -advantages of the new stoves. Know your space, your family needs and -then buy your stove from one of the best makers or order it through your -gas company. - -Manufacturers have tried to beautify their stoves, but when you buy see -to it that you buy comfort first. - -A gas range should keep in first class condition for at least fifteen -years--that is, if you buy the best and take reasonable care of it. - -All kinds of stove combinations can be had: gas and coal, gas, coal and -electricity, electricity and gas, oil and electricity, etc. So every -taste, every necessity can be met in stoves to-day. There is but one -rule--buy what you need and the best of its kind. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -THE OIL RANGE - - -What makes it possible to live in gasless, electricless, coal-less, -transportationless places in gustatorial ease and digestive comfort? The -oil range. Not the old-time messy oil stove, but the efficient, -capacious oil range. In districts unopened to modern improvements -cooking is made a pleasure rather than a drudgery, with this highly -effective medium, so effective that nothing that can be done on any -other type of stove need be omitted in the daily routine. It has the -maximum comfort and the minimum cost and trouble. This range too need -never be lighted until wanted and can be “put to bed,” immediately upon -finishing the meal. So now there need be no place where man can not have -his puddings, his breads, or his flap-jacks with speed and finish. - -The two most important types of oil stoves with which it is worth your -while to become acquainted are the wick and the wickless (kindler type). -It is quite evident from their descriptive titles that the former -employs a wick as heat carrier to the vessel in which is the food; and -the wickless has the kindler by which the heat is carried to the food in -a different way. - -The wick oil range is a development born directly of the lamp. It -employs the round wick and with it in its best form a long chimney is -used. This long draught chimney has proven in the case of the lamp to -make for perfect combustion of the oil. Hence after many years of trial -and proof the wick stove is developed to a delightful point of comfort -and utility. Speed, lack of odor and perfect work, three necessities of -any stove, are here exemplified, to say nothing of longevity and ease of -upkeep. - -You have probably used the heat from a lamp chimney to light a cigarette -or a match or even to heat a curling iron? Well, this is really the -principle of the wick stove. This heat has been harnessed and petted -into cooking usefulness by expert heat and stove engineers. - -The parts of the wick stove with which you must be acquainted are few -but important: - - 1. The burner - - 2. The wick - - 3. Flame spreader - - 4. Brass wick tube (a fine feature, in that it is of brass) - - 5. Clamp set screw - - 6. Hand wheel to adjust screw - - 7. Little mica door which opens in chimney instead of having to pull - off the chimney as you do in lighting a lamp. - -All you have to do is apply the match and touch off the wick at several -places. Then lower the wick until the flame is even. - -To extinguish the flame, turn the little wheel to the left. _Never blow -it out._ This blowing out of the flame causes all sorts of -irregularities and the real troubles. - -The oil range is supplied in the best types by gravity conduit. That is -to say that the oil flows from a reservoir into the burner, and as the -oil is consumed the fresh oil flows down and takes its place, so there -can never be overflow to cause fires or odors. These reservoirs are of -glass and in one case the manufacturer has a service of reservoirs -which supplies the consumer with a rack of three filled reservoirs, -which in turn replaces the emptied one. This obviates entirely the need -of the cook to pour oil in the reservoir or in fact know she is using -oil! Reservoirs of course are delivered and called for, if you are in -reach of a dealer. Where this service is impossible to be had the -pouring of the oil into the tank is simpler than simple. It is no more -difficult than pouring milk into a glass. In truth the reservoir is -mechanically adjusted and filled with oil--the human being but its guide -and beneficiary. - -The heat wanted in the wick stove depends on your culinary need and -consequently on how high or how low you turn the wick. Very often it -means when the flame burns low when it should burn high that the wick -needs a cleaning. Don’t blame the mechanism. It is difficult to say how -often you need to buy a wick or how often it should be cleaned, as it -depends very much on the quality of the oil that you have to use. Some -kerosene is charry and some more free from impurities than other kinds -of kerosene. - -Here are some points to observe if you want good results. - - 1. If there is a gap in the flame, the wick needs cleaning. There - should be a continuous round fence enclosing the burner around the - flame spreader. Or it may mean the wick is up against the flame - spreader. - - 2. Be sure that the wick is not up against the flame spreader after - lighting, because it will prevent the air from passing through the - center of the brass wick tube and cause over-heating of burner and a - murky flame. - - 3. The flame when high should show white points above the blue body of - the flame. These white points should be about 1¹⁄₄″ for perfect - combustion. That means that there will be no odor and that you will - get all the heat you need and no waste of fuel. - - 4. The flame has lost its usefulness when the line of demarcation - between the white and the blue is gone. The flame will begin to smoke, - the burner will be over-heated, the cookery under-heated, and odors - and smudge will be the result. Here again the human equation comes in. - Use your eyes effectively. - - 5. Cleaning wicks is done by removing the chimney even as you do in - cleaning a lamp wick. Nothing new in this. - - 6. Watch your reservoir; never allow it to run dry or your range to - burn dry. Form a habit of watching it daily and you will never regret - it. - - 7. Under usual circumstances one wick should last several months. - - 8. Clean wicks daily for best service. - - 9. Correct unevenness of the wick with a pair of scissors. - - 10. For re-wicking, arresting any other troubles, consult the “guide - book,” which gives directions simply. - - 11. But remember when you get any kind of range you must set it up - solidly and level before filling with oil or cooking upon it. Put it - in a part of the kitchen away from draughts and where you would put - any other stove. - - 12. Every range has special directions for inverting reservoir and - refilling, but in the best types it is always very easy and simple, - needing no strength or skill. - -And so in the best type of the wick range we have the possibility of -cooking everything that any family or its guests need. - -Wicks are easily bought all over the world. The stoves heat rapidly; the -oil reservoir is easy to fill; your hands need never be oily, unless -through crass carelessness. There is a basin shaped stove base to -collect char and dirt and the feed pipe is so placed as to make cleaning -easy. - -All the parts should be easily removable for cleaning and all should be -simple and visible in every part. This grown up lamp should have all -these modern twists. - -In the best of the wick type you should have the best vitreous enamel, -where it is enameled, baked in at least three times; solid brass wick -tubes; best grade of steel tubing and heavily tinned plate pipes where -necessary. - -In the long chimney-wick type the flame never touches the vessel. In the -short drum type the flame does touch. One wick type manufacturer makes a -perfect long chimney type yet also makes a short drum type to give all -consumers their heart’s desire. - - -WICKLESS RANGES - -The wickless, as its name implies, has no wick but carries the heat -directly to the cooking vessel and therefore shortens the cooking time a -little as the heat reaches the spot more quickly than it can in the -long, non-flame touching type of range. - -In this type of range a kindler is employed. This kindler is a round -asbestos ring (costs about 10 cents to replace) which lies in the burner -bowl and is slightly corrugated at the top and stiffened by a metal -band. Its function is not that of a wick at all. It is rather the -self-starter of the stove and its business is to light the oil and start -the cooking. The stove is lighted by applying the match to the kindler -which is saturated by oil (from its very position) and this ignition of -the kindler furnishes sufficient heat to the surface of the oil to turn -it into a gas. After the burner is started the heat automatically keeps -the gas forming (vaporizing) as long as there is oil in the burner. So -you can see that all the kindler does is start the gas ball rolling. - -The wickless type of range is equipped with a 12″ seamless burner, which -will last several years. The regulation of the heat is managed by -lowering or elevating the oil in the burner bowl. The greater the area -of oil exposed on which the heat from the kindler ring can act the -greater the amount of gas formed and released, and inversely the smaller -the area of oil surface exposed, etc. - -This range, in its best forms, employs a lever with a dial, which when -turned by the cook to the point in the dial she knows by experience she -needs, automatically and mechanically adjusts the heat from simmering -point to the most intense heat through a heat scale from “no heat” to -300° Fahrenheit. - -With the dial there is taken out of oil cookery the guess-work which -resides in most cookers. - -Here is used the short chimney, with very concentrated heat focused -where it is most needed. - -In lighting, you turn the lever to the word “light” on the dial. After -the kindler is saturated, generally a few seconds after switching the -lever, the chimney must be raised and the match applied in a few spots -to the kindler. In a few moments your blue flame is going full blast or -any blast you desire depending on your lever setting. - -Gravity supplies the oil here too, as in the wick type. The reservoir -with its glass bull’s-eye to detect oil quantity holds a gallon of -kerosene sufficient to last sixteen to eighteen hours for one burner, or -at the rate of about one cent per hour. Refilling these reservoirs is -very simple, and when you go to buy an oil range this is one of the -things you must insist upon. Unscrew the cap in this case and pour in -your oil, that is all. There are a feed pipe and release which gather -any sediment that may be in the oil. - - -FLAME REGULATION - -Experience is the best teacher in the way of knowing where you must set -the lever to get the hottest flame. Sometimes dependent on varying -conditions, the flame may be highest when the lever is over the 12th -division of the dial; sometimes it may be at 6 or 7 on your range. This -sort of thing you learn by knowing your range. Some oil will, of course, -be left in the burner after the light is turned off. Therefore you must -expect it to burn a little while after you have turned your lever to -“out.” - -The blue flame to be just right must touch the vessel with its uttermost -tip. - -On some of the most modern of this type is a match scratcher plate which -makes it easy to light the match without using your shoe, a good white -wall, or the seat of your pants. - -Every stove in this class is made of the finest pressed steel, and where -the enamel is used it is of vitreous variety with three bakings. There -is an all white stove, too, to fit in with the bridal effect of the -newer kitchens. - -The good points of the wickless stove are many: - - 1. No wicks to clean. - - 2. Unleakable. - - 3. More powerful burner than anywhere else, being 12″. - - 4. Burner 100% odorless. - - 5. Delivers heat where it does the most good. - - 6. Acts a little quicker than any other types. - - 7. More economical in upkeep. - -Either one of the stoves herein outlined is the best on the market as to -type and manufacture. If you have to buy a stove try and get the most -for your expenditure by a collection of the best traits in the stove. -No mechanical device is perfect without perfect handling. If you do not -put in the wick correctly, or if you do not light your kindler -sufficiently you will have trouble. If you put a tire on your car in the -wrong way you would not blame the car, yet the tendency is always to -blame the oil range and immediately call up your dealer and say that -your stove is smelly or that the wick won’t burn or that the kindler -won’t start, etc. - -The best firms give every consumer a little text book to consult when in -difficulty. - -These stoves even in electric and gas regions are used in summer because -they are cool cookers. - -The advantage over coal is evident, as there is no fire to clean out, no -kindling wood necessary, no ashes to carry and no coal to lug about, to -say nothing about wondering about dampers, flues and the like. - -In all ranges burning oil of the best makes, you can have all the heat -you want and as little as you want as well. - -On all well proportioned ranges you can put some of the excellently -constructed ovens. - -The ranges come with from one burner to five burners. Some are built in -cabinet style, with shelves, etc. Some just plain style. As yet none of -the cooking surfaces is quite high enough; a few inches added to their -stature would make cookery easier on the human back. The cabinet size -usually stands about 54¹⁄₂″ high, 64″ wide. - -The spaces between the burners is ample for comfortable placing of -utensils. Watch this when purchasing a stove, for you can be very -uncomfortable with a jammed surface. - -It is pretty much a matter of what you can get in the way of either of -these two specific stoves. They are both so good. The wick type is -convenient because the wick is sold all over the world. The wickless is -convenient because it is easy to clean and is a bit more rapid in -heating. The kindler is only 10 cents and can be had at all dealers and -when you buy the stove you can get a supply. - -You must demand: - -No odor whatever - -Speedy cooking - -Steady flame - -Cleanliness and easy to clean - -Easily replaceable parts - -No smut and dirt - -Easy flame control - -Oil visible in reservoir - -Best materials on the market - -Perfect combustion, making for the minimum amount of residue carbon. - -With the oil range as well as with the gas, electric and coal range -there can be bought water-heating boilers, ovens, etc.; and with one -stove, special broilers and toasters. - -There are two very good ovens on the market to be used with these stoves -and with other kinds as well, each one with its special selling points. -Each is large enough in some size for a 12 pound turkey, each small -enough for the smallest uses (sizes range from 21¹⁄₂″ × 18¹⁄₂″ × 13″ to -13″ × 18¹⁄₂″ × 13″). They weigh from about 12 to 18 pounds. You place -the oven over the surface burner. - -One oven maker claims: - - Asbestos lining for insulation - - Shelves set for 5 different altitudes - - Curved top to oven like bakers’ oven to pass off gas and prevent air - pockets - - Shelf support growing out of lining - - Strap hinges - - One motion to handle to open oven door - - Door closes only if it locks - - Special asbestos lining porcelain enameled heat spreader, triangular - in shape, to deflect heat and prevent burning - -Another says of itself: - - Special heat resisting lining - - Mica windows below to watch flame - - Unbreakable glass and unstreamable - - Three point locking device on door - - All glass door. - -The oil range is not cheap. Yet it is a godsend at certain times. We are -not advocating it for general use where pipes and wires and coal are at -our convenient disposal, but we do recommend it forcibly and sincerely -where you want a simple, efficient cooking medium beyond the reach of -the popular sources of heat. - -Unless you buy the very best, not merely the best, oil cooker you will -be saddened, and with the best you will sign yourself Pollyanna without -reservations. - -Just about now, a new oil range is being advertised. It is a cross -between the wick and the wickless, because it uses an asbestos and brass -thread wick which is almost immortal, for it can be reversed when -charred and when both sides are charred it is burnt off in the stove and -ready to begin its double life again. - -Like the wickless stove the flame touches the vessel with the short drum -construction, and like the wick it uses a wick even though quite -different. - -The stove is of japanned tin, and is made in cabinet type and in the -ordinary style. It is also in the “best” class. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -COOKING BY ABSENT TREATMENT - - -The fireless cooker is primarily a fuel saver. Secondarily, it has -developed into an absent treatment cooker. That is, the food can be -cooking while the lady of the house is airing the baby or at church or -at club entertainments or while the cook is cleaning the kitchen, -laundry and pantry. Thirdly, it cooks thoroughly and longly without the -added expense of fuel or effort. - -It was first made with a box and with excelsior and padding but the -manufacturers came to the rescue as they always do to supply a demand -and the comfortable fireless cooker was born. - -Its story is short and sweet and to the point. The essential for the -cooker is that it will cook by retained heat. Therefore, it must be -built so that there will be no leakage of heat. For this reason it must -have perfect insulation. The utensils must have covers that are clamped -on so tight that they retain the heat generated by the stove or electric -current. The lining should be non-absorbent of odors or “spill.” -Therefore practice has proven that aluminum, which does not rust and is -easily cleaned, is best for this lining. The linings too, must be -smoother than smooth and be as seamless as it is possible for them to be -made. - -For long processes, of course, the heated plates must be able to retain -heat and for this, soap stone and iron plates have been found to be the -most practical. - -The cookers can be had with from one to three or four compartments. -Therefore, a whole dinner can be cooked. They claim that you can brown -with them as well as in the roasting oven. Browning can be to some -extent accomplished by an accomplished fireless expert with extra -heating of extra plates and the like, but for real crisp browning it is -as well to take out the food and rapidly brown in the oven. - -The best results are gained with the fireless if used in conjunction -with gas, oil and electric stoves. With the coal stove there is a loss -of fuel saving of somewhere around 50% due to the fact that it takes so -much time to get up the fire in a coal stove before the plates are -heated sufficiently to do their work in the cooker. - -Therefore, it is cheaper if you are going to use the fireless to any -great extent to have a one burner gas plate on which to heat your plates -for the fireless cooking process. - - -FIRELESS STOVES - -In the chapters on gas and electric stoves, you will find there -mentioned the fact that there are some stoves so built that they have -fireless ovens. That simply means that they are so insulated and -constructed that when the cooking has reached a certain point, the -current of electricity or the gas can be turned off (in some cases -turning itself off automatically) and the rest of the cooking can be -done by the fireless process or on retained heat. This, of course, is -the ideal way, because then there is no extra paraphernalia in the house -and the stove is built so that the back is not bent in stooping to the -low fireless cooker. For this reason, we would suggest that if you have -a fireless, it is best to have it on a shelf built for it or keep it on -a table. Save your back or your kitchen aid where you can, as we have -but one back for every process in life! - -The electric fireless cooker is one which has its own connection with -the electric light circuit. It is not a stove or part of a stove--it is -merely a most convenient cooker for which you are not forced to heat -extra stoves or plates. It’s a two-in-one combination. According to -directions you turn on and off the circuit. - - -COOKING - -After you become accustomed to the fireless, you will find that cooking -in it is quite definite and the time and the schedule can be heeded like -clock-work. Do not let the food cool in the cooker, or you will have the -cooker odor to battle with and you will always have olfactory souvenirs. -The cooling and steaming in the box will do this only too well. Air your -utensils and cooker after each usage or your food will have a uniform -flavor which to say the least is most unpleasant. - -Remember that it takes longer to cook like this and that you will only -save time by being able to do something else without fear that your food -is boiling over or burning or what not. This cookery takes a little -practice, it is like everything else, a case where practise makes -perfect and where the good utensil and a good understanding work -together for good, while a poor utensil and a slovenly understanding -work together for a little hell on earth, and this is putting it not one -whit too strong. - -It is no doubt true that tough cuts of meat are better cooked by the -long process of retained heat; it is no doubt true that cereals are much -more wholesome with the process of retained heat, yet it is doubtful -whether the fireless cooker is ever bought for these reasons. - -It is bought, however, to economize time, service and food. There is -less waste of food by the fireless process. You can buy cheap cuts of -food if you have a fireless cooker and enjoy them. - -So, the fireless cooker is not an embroidery it is the “bib and tucker” -of culinary labor. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -QUESTIONS FROM THE LEAGUE OF RATIONS - - (_A very possible conversation, but invented by the author to bring - out some points that the reader will readily see._) - - -“Joy!” gasped Mrs. Gregory Eggleston, turning on the electric current -for breakfast coffee. - -“Isn’t it a luxury after you’ve been out late,” she said turning to her -guest, Mrs. Bradford Reardon, “not to have to think of servants and be -able to have breakfast like this at 10:30--with impunity! You know I -think the kitchenette will rob domestics of house room!” - -“It certainly is a luxury to have a little cooking kit like this whether -one has another home or not. And to have it as you have--within easy -driving distance from the theater, where you and your friends can spend -the night and breakfast like kings from this shiny apparatus. Besides,” -she continued, “it’s amazing how a little 6′×5′ room (see plan 1) does -solve the omnipresent question of how to live in the country and yet not -have to depend on hotels to keep one comfortable while attending to the -affairs of business and pleasure in the city.” - -“You’re right,” agreed Mrs. Eggleston, taking some chilled oranges out -of the refrigerator under the table, “Gregory and I wanted the country -for our growing kindergarten and yet it seemed impossible until we -thought of this scheme. Gregory has so many interests in the city and -you know how many I have that it seemed almost exile to leave it. If we -didn’t have this place, I’d be on the road all the time, whereas now -when I am home I can devote my entire time to the kiddies.” - -[Illustration: - - _Underwood & Underwood_ - -A CORNER IN WALTER RUSSELL’S KITCHENETTE. THE STEEL UNIT KITCHEN CABINET -IS USED HERE] - - -DROPPING THE MAIDS - -“But,” she went on, “you’d be surprised how Gregory hated the idea at -first of a manless or maidless entourage. He said he couldn’t bear to -think of me messing with stoves, etc., and now you should see him! He -loves it--he helps me too, and says it makes him think of our early -days--and he loves me to wait on him and be alone with him.” - -“The kitchenette as the domestic canteen has come to stay,” Mrs. Reardon -said, and then looking about her with an amused flash in her eye, “but -your kitchenette, dear, is like an ordinary kitchen. The kitchenettes -I’ve conjured up when thinking of them at all, have been little -curtained slits in the wall in the corner of two rooms without bath, -clothes closets without clothes, bathrooms without baths, washstands -capped with shelves full of canned goods and gas appliances all -permitting of cookery with every requisite for human food except the -desire to eat it.” - -“Yes,” laughed Mrs. Eggleston, “I guess the only definition of a -kitchenette is: a place to cook smaller than your previous one and -smaller than any kitchen of any of your friends!” - -“But,” Mrs. Reardon continued with rapture, “your kitchenette is a -dream. It always reminds me of jewels--the tiled floors, walls and -ceiling like luminous settings and the apparatus like lovely gems. -Really it breeds appetite and culinary prowess. Any one could cook in -this place! And when I’m not in such an esthetic mood I am reminded of -an engine room in a small electric yacht.” - -“That is amusing,” said Mrs. Eggleston, laughing, “but I hardly can see -how it could be otherwise because Gregory and I thought of all the -yachts we knew before arranging this kitchenette. He always says ‘Well, -dear, we certainly are ship-shape here--even if we don’t own a yacht!’” - -Whether the slit in the wall kitchenette or the tiled kitchenette is the -only kitchen in the family, or whether the kitchenette is only for -weekends of the foregoing variety, it must be small and ship-shape. -These are the only definite kitchenette requirements. - - -THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT - -It need consist only of a couple of three-foot shelves, so compact are -the stoves and ranges made for light housekeeping. But roominess is no -crime, so multitudinous are the tools to play with. Smallness, however, -is unusually synonymous with convenience in kitchenettes. - -Nearly every professional woman and many men in the large cities are -banded into a huge League of Rations by the sympathetic tie of small -kitchenettes. These compact cooking outfits make the lives simple, -adaptable and healthful, they are the result of the hatred of the -restaurant and café which turn steady diet into a farce, and they put an -end to the régime: “Eat, drink and be merry, for to-morrow we diet.” And -so the slit in the wall or the covered cupboard is made the nucleus of -home cooking and family feeling. No servants needed, none missed and a -feeling that you are not living down by doing your own work but living -up by managing the difficult combination of living well and doing your -job on the outside to the best possible advantage. - -For the most part these kitchenettes are run by gas, but are for that -reason cheaper in the cities like New York, where there is no cooking -rate for electricity. - -But the new appliances for the electric kitchenette are like toys, they -are so fascinatingly contrived. You are crazy to have ice cream or -whipped cream with which to employ the electric kitchen power unit which -can perform all these miracles, and you are led into gustatorial and -epicurean extravagances by cooking, boiling, baking and grilling at the -same time on the new stove. A whole dinner can be cooked on the dining -table with these new ranges even if you have no kitchenette! - -The terror of dishwashing has evaporated! The electric dishwasher has -been born and now our Ladies Eggleston and Reardon can, without loss of -epithelial beauty, dash into the kitchenette for their matinal -refreshment--sans sacrifice, sans anything but appetite and culinary -ardor. - -In the model Edison kitchenette, the utensils are hung up to avoid -unnecessary spinal calisthenics. The sink is near the stove and is high -enough to save the back from contortionate bends. All surfaces in the -kitchenette should be an inch or so higher than that which the palm of -the hand can reach without bending the back. The floors should be cement -or hard wood with mat or with linoleum, either cork inlay, tile or -brick; the ceiling of a light color paint or tile or brick; the walls -the same and all joinings rounded to avoid the cracks at the base of the -wall joining the floor, or where the wall and ceiling join. - -The best kitchenettes are tiled or bricked with generous water vent so -that the light hose played on them flushes and cleans them in no time. - -One of the best arrangements is to have the kitchenette apparatus follow -this succession: (See Plan 1) Drop table, closet, sink, work table, -refrigerator beneath, shelves above, utensils hung underneath, stove, on -either side of the sink drain boards of hardwood tilted toward sink or -copper or composition slightly tilted; and a garbage chute on right side -of work table near the sink. - -However excellent or concentrated the arrangement, there can be no -success, however, with any machinery unless you know how to use it -advantageously; so as engineer in the electric kitchenette you ought to -know a few things about the mysterious current over which you preside; -how to use it economically, how to use it to its full capacity minus -disaster and how to have the same mental attitude toward your -kitchenette equipment as the workman has to his tools. In the Edison -kitchenette is a little sign with the following legend: - - Turn off the current when the range is not in use. - - 1. Start the oven on high, then turn it to medium or low. - - 2. Turn oven off completely and finish baking and roasting on retained - heat. - - 3. When contents of pot are boiling fast, turn the plate to medium or - low for long cooking. - - Turn off current when nearly done. - - Complete the cooking by retained heat in the plate. - -In a little booklet is found this advice: - - Fires caused by the use of electric stoves are mostly caused by - carelessness. - - I. Detach the plug as well as turn off current at the socket. - - II. When you are not using any device continually shut off current. - - III. Grasp the plug at the spring not by the cord. - - IV. Blow-outs are caused by too many devices all attached to the - cluster plug. Reduce the number. - -The utensils of these kitchenettes are without end; some of them are: -Tables, ranges--aforementioned; oven and grill combinations; griddles; -toasters; percolators of all kinds; large and small ranges; ice cream -freezers; combination meat grinders; ice cream, whipped cream and dough -mixing units; electric ice makers; automatic time ovens, with clock -attached so that you can put something in to cook and at a designated -time the current turns itself off; immersion heaters; coffee mills; -samovars; egg boilers; buffer, etc. for sharpening and polishing silver -and knives; and countless other things. - -But the latest of all is the electric kitchen cabinet or “Movie” of -small price and great compactness; gas or electrically ranged and -arranged, containing in its simple confines, pots, pans, ice box, -folding table, flour bins, stove, shelves for dishes and all the -comforts of home. Just the thing for one night stands or bachelor’s -retreats! - -And jot this down--that if you have a good refrigerator, electric or -plain, you can have all the onions inside of it that you want without -affecting other foods, and if you have an electric ozonator you can cook -onions in the smallest kitchenette without damage!--so they say! - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -KEEPING IT COOL - - -She rang for the butler: - -“Wilson, please ask the chef what kind of a refrigerator the architect -put in for us.” - -“Very well, madam,” and he departed to the kitchen. - -This same chatelaine did not send for the butler to inquire what kind of -an automobile her garage held. Not for a moment! She knew, too, the -difference between the Rolls-Royce, her car, and the Ford, or any other -car! Yet, she didn’t know her refrigerator! And to-day, although all the -world’s a-wheel, the very crux of the situation is the refrigerator! -Peace--war--the economic structure of nations hinges on the preservation -of food, not only in refrigerating cars, but in our kitchens; for, as -our kitchens save food, just so much more easily will the world be fed -and unrest cease. - -Beyond much doubt the chic porcelain-lined refrigerator of to-day is the -corner-stone of the halls of domesticity; for what in the unconscious -song of every husband is a wife without well-kept food! And is there any -romance that will survive flabby lettuce and pulpy celery? - - -HOW IT IS MADE - -The booklets about the refrigerator are entrancing! The pictures bring -to mind marble halls, à la Alma Tadema, and you might wonder why he -never used a modern refrigerator in one of his Roman paintings! - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of the Kelvinator Co._ - -WHEN THERE IS A CELLAR USED FOR THE LAUNDRY, THE ICE-MAKER COILS CAN BE -SET DOWN THERE WITH EASE AND SIMPLICITY. HERE TOO IS AN ELECTRIC IRONER -AND WASHER INSTALLED, WITH A VERY NEAT TOOL RACK!] - -But you will remember that the linings of the refrigerator are not of -marble no matter how much they resemble it, but instead must be made in -one piece of smooth, hard, non-porous, non-warpable, non rustable -material, the best type of which is the burnt-in vitreous porcelain in -several layers on a metal backing. These linings must be made in one -piece with no seams. No seams and seamless are quite different in their -implication. “No seams” is what it seems to indicate, but seamless means -a camouflage of joints. Joints and seams are food and odor entrappers -and presage disease and death. Many of the advertised enameled interiors -are made of nothing but paint heated, not burnt-in, which therefore -flakes off or crazes (cracks form) and falls into the food, which of -course is not a particularly epicurean sort of truffle! - -The doors, too, must be seamless, jointless, screwless and smooth. - -The shelves and other partitions must be of smooth, heavily tinned wire -mesh. Smooth to prevent accumulation of food; and the wire mesh to -insure rapid and unimpeded circulation of air. - - -THE NINE POINTS - -Whereas some refrigerator owners may keep butlers, the following points -are more essential to the maidless home, because effort and energy and -strength are saved to say naught of money and ice if conditions are such -that the ice will not fade away rapidly and cleaning have to be done -under difficulties of construction. - -Therefore, to preserve the sanitation of the home and the consequent -sanity of the world before buying a refrigerator the following Nine -Points should be laid before the Kitchen Diplomatic Table: - - 1. Does it: Maintain a low and uniform temperature? - - 2. Maintain a pure atmosphere? - - 3. Appear to keep absolutely sanitary? - - 4. Seem to be built to keep perfect circulation and an absence from - odors? - - 5. Keep free from moisture? - - 6. Seem built to be economical in ice consumption? - - 7. Have a system to insure perfect drainage? - - 8. Contain a porcelain lining in provision chamber? - - 9. And does it seem to be built for durability as well as for beauty? - -And now about enforcing the Nine Points. - - -THE INSULATION - -How for instance is a minimum temperature to be kept? Chiefly, by -insulation--this is a strictly mechanical term understood by motorists -and engineers and must be understood by the housewife, who is a domestic -or kitchen engineer if she is anything. The low temperature is kept by -keeping out the outside heat and keeping in the inside cold! After much -experiment, it has been found that the walls, floors and doors of every -refrigerator must have at least one air space, from six to nine layers -of insulating material consisting of pebbled cork, or certain patented -materials, mineral wool, asbestos and various layers of porous -substances which keep out the outer warm air and prevent the cold air -from escaping. (See illustration.) Well insulated refrigerators backed -up against boilers, stoves or vats maintain a temperature far below 58 -or 60 degrees; some, the best, maintaining 50 degrees. - - -AS TO ICE CHAMBERS - -The ice compartment should be above, and to one side, so that the cold -air from the melting ice can descend, as is the custom of cold air, and -can rise again as it gets heated in its contact with the provisions and -pass up over the ice, be cooled and pass down again with its collected -odors through the drain. This is what is called air circulation, and -when the ice box is properly constructed, and when the ice compartment -is kept full, the air is in constant motion, traveling over and over -again up and down and around the food and ice. This constant activity of -the air is what insures an odorless condition, unmouldy and cold food. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Bohm Syphon Co._ - -NOR COLD NOR HEAT CAN GET BEYOND THESE FORTIFICATIONS - - PORCELAIN ENAMEL - LINING ONE PIECE - DEAD AIR SPACE - INSIDE WOOD LINING - BLACK WATERPROOF PAPER - WOOL FELT PAPER - FLAXLINUM INSULATION - OUTSIDE WOOD CASE] - -In the best refrigerators the ice chamber extends a few inches below the -door and is lined with the highest grade of smooth galvanized metal, -lock jointed, and is without seams and sharp edges. - -In some refrigerators the wall between the ice compartment and the -provision chamber is slatted, in some there is a space at the top, in -others, holes are bored, top and bottom, to permit the free egress of -the circulating air. These methods are good in varying degrees. The main -things to be kept in mind are: - - 1. Does the air circulate enough to prevent any moisture accumulating - in the refrigerator? Can salt be kept dry and granular in it for one - hundred hours? - - 2. Does the refrigerator keep below 60 degrees, or better between 45 - and 50 degrees? Will a damp cloth dry quicker inside than outside of - it, because of the rapid circulation and dryness of the air? - - 3. Do matches keep dry and can they be lighted by being struck on its - walls? (This shows whether the ice box is dry!) - - 4. Does the milk taste of cheese or the butter of the soup? - -If they have any “acquired traits,” you may be sure the circulation of -air in your refrigerator is bad or else there are seams or crazes in the -tile, holding odors in their grip. Tiles and other beautiful interiors -have in many instances been discarded by many makers because of their -brittleness or pertinacious grip on odors--which, in the form of gases, -poison foods and hence the family! Opal glass has been dropped because -of its fragility in lighter weights. There are, however, some -manufacturers who use tile with excellent result. - -Another important feature is the drain pipe, more important almost than -the exhaust on the motor. If this pipe is not constructed solely to -carry off odors and waste materials from the cleanest ice and not to -import insects, gases and warm air from the sewage of the town, it will -collect a very tidy packet of typhoid, diphtheria or any home-seeking -germs. This drain ought therefore to have a water-sealed trap in it, it -should be smooth, of hard, well-finished metal and be so simply cleaned -that the kitchen maid, or whoever is delegated to perform the laving of -this important part of the household, should not look forward to the -performance with horror, but with a sense of ease. - -There isn’t a doubt that a faulty drain in the refrigerator has caused -more typhoid than anything else. - -Think what it means then to be a good kitchen engineer--what service you -can render your family! Few home-keepers realize the necessity of -understanding the underlying principles of air circulation, sanitation -and germination but what a lot of misery could be avoided if the -chatelaine or even the wife-cook had a little technical knowledge. How -this would dignify the science of the home. And yet how lightly is the -function of home-keeper assumed and how many brainy women look down upon -it! - - -HOW TO USE A REFRIGERATOR - -But if you have everything to assure perfection in refrigeration and -know not how to use it, it is as if you had none at all. - -Note this amendment to the nine points: - - 1. Keep your ice chamber _full_, even after Dry Laws. It saves ice and - preserves your food. The circulating air will only go “over the top” - as far as the bulk of ice drives it. - - 2. _Never put any food in the ice compartment._ It must play an - infinite solitaire. - - 3. Keep the doors shut, and open them as little as possible. - - 4. If the ice gives out, take out all the material and rinse out the - refrigerator. Refill it with ice and keep the door shut at least six - hours. And remember sufficiency of ice insures efficiency of - refrigeration and efficiency of refrigeration means a sufficiency in - expenditure--for a refrigerator. - -Water coils can be put in some ice chambers which connect directly with -the water supply. In this way the water can be kept continuously cool -for drinking under all conditions of outside temperature. - -The outside of the ice box should be of hard wood or porcelain, the -hardware of the best, including lever door handles. - -Back doors for filling the ice box can be set so that the ice can be put -in from the outside of the ice house, room, pantry or kitchen. This -avoids useless handling and melting of the ice and obviates the iceman’s -journey through the house. - -And, above all, choose a refrigerator that has no unnecessary -“improvements” in the ice chamber which have to be taken out and -scalded. The easier it can be rinsed from within the more often the -attendants will clean it! - -And remember this, too, that an ice box is a cooler where the ice and -provisions go in the same chamber, while the _refrigerator_--well, you -know it all now. - -And, by the way, if you want a useful little device to keep your grape -juice or yourself--cool--while motoring this summer, look up a little -basket refrigerator which comes in many sizes and many prices. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE PASSING OF THE ICE MAN - - -“How would you like to be the ice man?” is the lyrical refrain to an -ancient ditty that is getting more and more obsolete every day, for -there is a mechanical conspiracy to oust the ice man from his age-long -position as purveyor to the home. So do ice men, gladiators and dogs -have their day and relinquish to machinery their evanescent glories. - -Nowadays everybody knows that there are domestic refrigerating plants -for home use that displace the ice man and in which pure ice for table -use can be made. Many people, however, do not realize the reliability of -such equipment, the simplicity of its operation, and the satisfaction to -be derived from its use, nor yet that there is an actual saving in its -use. These facts will, however, be borne out by thousands who have freed -themselves from the bondage of the ice man. - -Even though few will care just what contributes to making the coldness, -it might be well to give a simple explanation of the principle of making -ice, in order that the prospective purchaser will know what she is -getting. - -When you wash your hands they feel cool if you do not dry them. You say -they are cool because the water evaporates, but the fact is that the -evaporation takes place because the water is drawing on the heat from -the air and your hands feel cool in the process. And so in simplest -terms engineers have found refrigerants or liquids which vaporize or -evaporate at low temperatures, and as they turn from liquids to gasses -they use up the heat and leave the air cold. Some of these refrigerants -are sulphur dioxide, chloride of ethyl, ammonia, etc. - -There are two ways of having refrigeration in the home: - -1. The mechanical refrigerator (which is permanently cool with the -machinery a part of itself)--one unit. - -2. The domestic refrigerating plant (for making ice and steadily -producing even, low temperatures) which you can have installed in your -own refrigerator--two units. - -The general system of home making-ice refrigerators consists of the -brine tank with copper coils within, a motor-driven compressor and a -condenser of copper piping. The compressed liquid passes through an -expansion valve into the brine tank where the pressure is reduced and it -changes into a gas, flows out through and is condensed by the condenser, -changed back into a liquid, is pumped back again by the motor and starts -cycling again--indefinitely. In the best ice-making plants there is a -heat control which turns on the motor when the temperature in the -refrigerator gets too high and turns it off when it is sufficiently low. - -In one refrigerator there is a device by which the food compartments are -kept at any temperature you desire, usually around 40°, while the -temperature of the ice-making compartment is never allowed to rise above -20°. By this arrangement it is possible, and very often the case, that -ice will be made in the ice compartment without running the electric -motors for hours, while food is kept in the food compartments at -slightly above freezing point. Fancy the health insurance that the best -ice-less processes guarantee in the home--infant’s food, for example, -can be absolutely fool-proof. - -Although the above technical libretto is of some use, the things that -most people want to know and are asking are these: - -1. Is ice making at home practical? - -2. Is it messy? - -3. Can I use my old refrigerator? - -4. Are they to be had in a special refrigerator? - -5. Will I save money? - -6. Will it save time and annoyance? - -7. What’s the use anyway? - -A good refrigerator is a jewel, and it is the first requisite to be -considered. It must be insulated well enough to keep out hot air and -hold in cold. It must be seamless and smooth in its linings. The air -circulation must be continuous. The temperature inside must never be -higher than an average of 45° and rarely that. In such a refrigerator -one should be able to keep matches dry and butter must never absorb any -of the charm of the onion. - -If you have such a refrigerator, keep it by all means, and install the -ice-making machine. The installation is simple, and the initial expense -is readily made up in the future saving of ice consumption. But do not -install an excellent ice machine in a poor refrigerator, as the electric -bills will climb the Alps. Yet even in a poor refrigerator the -refrigeration bills are lower than if you had iced refrigeration. - -If you have no refrigerator, it is possible to buy a refrigerator which -has in it the ice-making machines. But before you buy the outfit you -must be very careful to know whether this refrigerator comes up to the -most stringent tests of the ordinary first-class refrigerator, for this -reason: The average refrigerator in which ice is used has to be -efficient because it must keep itself dry with actual ice evaporation -going on, it must keep a cold chest with an actual diminishing ice -supply, it must keep ice melting yet staying in spite of weather and -surrounding atmosphere. To make the circulation of air effect these -processes a refrigerator requires fine construction. - -The refrigerating manufacturers have put the most superb effort into -making a first-class refrigerator, and if you are not convinced that the -combination outfit has as good a refrigerator as you can get with the -installed outfit, it is wisest to buy the refrigerator and install the -ice-making machine. There are excellent refrigerators on the market; -apply rigid tests and accept nothing short of the best. - -The machinery can, in some instances, be put on top of the refrigerator -or in the cellar or in the next room or right next to the refrigerator. -In some cases the machine, consisting of pump and condenser and motor, -takes up no more room than 1¹⁄₂′ × 1¹⁄₄′ × 3¹⁄₂′. This can be put in -place as simply as installing a new gas stove. - -In the best of the iceless machines the refrigerator maintains a lower -temperature than the iced ones in both winter and summer. At a cost of -ten cents per kilowatt hour, and with ice at fifty cents per hundred -pounds, it is cheaper per day to use the iceless refrigerator. - -There is, too, less dampness in the iceless refrigerator than even in -the best iced ones, due, of course, to the absence of the ice itself. -This lower percentage of humidity should not be taken as a reflection on -the low percentage of humidity that can be maintained by the iced -refrigerator of the best make, which is a percentage low enough to dry -towels and keep matches dry. - -The iceless refrigerator does these things: - - 1. Reduces the cost of refrigeration. - - 2. Maintains a constant low temperature regardless of weather and - automatically starts up “cold making” when you raise the temperature - by opening the doors. - - 3. Operates automatically when once installed and is reliable, clean - and noiseless. - - 4. Permits you to make neat little cubes of ice for your tumblers, - which give your table distinction. - - 5. Gives you ice of which you know the clean source. - - 6. Operates by electricity. - - 7. Needs no refrigerant for years. - - 8. Is oiled very seldom. - - 9. Is easily kept clean. - - 10. Obviates the uncertain ice man and his dirty boots trailed across - the kitchen floor. - - 11. There is no ice-box drain to clean, no water dripping to worry - about and therefore no extra effort. - - 12. Consumes from 1¹⁄₂ to 2 kilowatt hours per day--if it is run from - 6 to 8 hours per day. - -The purchaser of an ice-making refrigerator or a domestic refrigerating -plant should be warned of the following: - - 1. A poor refrigerator will mean more electricity to keep up a - sufficiently low temperature. - - 2. Don’t let a manufacturer tell you that a freezing refrigerant, such - as sulphur dioxide, will escape and corrode the pipes. It has been - tested out and in the best machines has neither escaped nor worn out - its pipings. - - 3. Remember that opening and closing doors raises the temperature even - in the magic iceless paradise, and therefore uses more electric power - to keep the temperature down. - - 4. The best machines maintain the ideal and theoretical low - temperature. - - 5. Expect service from the manufacturer. - - 6. It is best to have the gas air-cooled and not water-cooled because - the introduction of water makes for the confraternity of gas and - water--a troublesome mess. - - 7. Demand the temperature-controlling automatic device which starts - the refrigerating when the temperature gets up around 39°, and cuts it - off when the temperature is low enough to do its work. This saves - electricity and wear and tear on the machine. - -Some iceless refrigerators make little cubes of ice by putting trays of -your favorite drinking water into the brine tank compartments. In these -the temperature ranges from 20° to 27°. Desserts, too, can be frozen -firmly and surely when placed in these trays. - -The brine tank fits easily into the ice compartment of the well-made -refrigerator. The brine tank, compressor, condensor and pump come in -three sizes, corresponding to an efficiency of making two hundred, three -hundred, four hundred pounds of ice per day. Actually these three -typical sizes of refrigerators can only store ice to the amounts of one -hundred and fifty, two hundred and three hundred pounds, a difference -being allowed for melting. - -The condensor, compressor and motor of some types of ice machines do not -take up any more space than that of 30″ × 16″ × 18″ high. This can be -installed anywhere. - -When ordering an ice-maker for your home refrigerator, it is well to -measure its interior, regardless of its compartments. Get the width, -depth and height, and multiply them together. This gives the cubical -contents and the manufacturer can then estimate as to the cost and size -plant that you need. - -At five cents per kilowatt the cost per day of running an entire kitchen -by electricity is but fifty cents. Compare this to the cost of motoring -per day. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -A BURNING QUESTION - - -“Let me see your back-yard and I can tell you what sort of a housekeeper -you are,” said a sleuth to a friend. But we would add “and your method -of garbage disposal.” So we beg your attention for the tale of the -incinerator, the modern and comforting Inferno, built to bring heaven -(paradoxical as it may sound) into your home. - -The incinerator, to be sure, is one of the last comers to domestic -economy. To most homekeepers it has not occurred as either a necessity -or a convenience; and for that reason this chapter aims to introduce the -householder to the garbage incinerators. - -Once upon a time the incinerator was made to connect with the kitchen -flue and fitted into the stove pipe. The hot air was thought to be -sufficient to evaporate the moisture of the garbage after the housewife -had evaporated and dried it out as much as possible. This had to be done -because moisture in waste is the deterring factor in its combustion. -Then after this stove-like incinerator had done its work, the dried -garbage itself would act as fuel. - -But ... there was one terrible flaw in this method and that was the fact -that the odors and gases that were given off were not only unpleasant, -but often dangerous and so for this reason this method has pretty well -passed out of existence. - -To do away with the odor and the gases released from the combustion of -household waste, the developing incinerator has been created and -flourishes deservedly among us. - -The enthusiast cannot say about the incinerator, as he can say about -substitutes for his favorite drinks and foods: “If you don’t have one, -you will suffer torture and go down to your death in agonies of -discontent.” No, he cannot. But he can say this, “Although you can and -do prosper without the incinerator, and although consciously you do need -one in most cases, yet when you once own and use one, you find that it -brings up the sanitary condition of your dwelling at least 50%.” - -In brief, it means doing without the garbage can which breeds odors, -gases and vermin. It means doing without the garbage carts which are -æsthetically, alone, a torture to say nothing of the menace they hold in -common with their aide the garbage can. - - -FLY COSTS - -The fly costs the United States of America, it is estimated, about 350 -million dollars a year because of its contaminating influence on the -health and the weal of the population. It is alone responsible for -nearly 90% of the intestinal and typhoid fever cases. The answer to this -must be: Every one must fight the fly; and the moral of that is: the -incinerator is one way of getting rid of garbage and at the same time -starving out the fly. - -There is no room in the house in which cleanliness is so important as in -the kitchen; therefore, the garbage can, in most instances, militates -against its absolute cleanliness. To be sure, there is one good can on -the market with an automatic lid which is raised with the foot so that -stooping is unnecessary. One touch by the foot on the pedal opens the -can, and as soon as the foot is taken off the pedal, the lid closes. It -is seamless and finished in white enamel. But even this can is hardly a -substitute for the incinerator. The average kitchen _isn’t_ the best -lighted and sunniest room in the house, and what is often left in the -garbage can (if not carefully lined with new paper every time it is -emptied) is a real menace to health. - -If you live in the country, the garbage can is usually in the yard and -tours to it are demanded daily. If it is cold, it is a hardship, and if -it is warm it is a hardship, too! The garbage freezes in the winter; it -decays rapidly in the summer, and there is always the worry about its -collection. If it is kept in the shed, it means other sources of storage -and worry, so whether you are your own help or whether you have help, -garbage disposal is a really truly problem. - -Now to the device to obviate the immoral fly, extra steps, unclean -kitchens, and worry, the thief of content. - - -THE INCINERATOR - -The incinerator, besides being the burner of garbage, is a garbage -container. It burns garbage without smoke, noxious gases and floating -inorganic matter. If the stove could do this, the incinerator would not -be necessary, as suggested above. But it can’t, especially if it be a -gas or electric stove. Every incinerator, if it be any good at all, is -so designed as not only to burn the waste but reburn the gases, etc., -before the products of combustion reach the outer air. - -Every manufacturer will tell you that his apparatus burns without smoke -or odor. This you will do well to prove by observing one in operation, -staying in the building in which it is being used and also whiffing the -air a few doors away. - -The writer knows of a bank which was severely tried by a daily -recurring odor at lunch time. The authorities found out later that the -incinerator of a neighboring bank was playing its owner false. - -There is no use in describing the re-combustion or re-burning devices of -the good incinerator, but it is necessary for the buyer to know whether -the re-burning is accomplished so as to reduce the waste to clean ash -without smoke, noxious odors, and the rest. - -The two main classes of incinerators are, (1) those that are installed -in the cellar and there burn the garbage, which is dropped in a chute -through a hopper installed by the sink or elsewhere in the kitchen -(somewhat the way mail is dropped into the mail box through its chute) -and (2) the incinerators which look like oblongly high stoves placed in -a recess in the wall or against the wall in the kitchen where the waste -is stored and burned. The cellar incinerator is connected with the -kitchen, etc., often through the flue and the waste is dropped into a -little hopper. - -Of course, the installed type should, if possible, be put in with the -connivance of the architect before the house is built as it is simpler -than tearing up afterward. This type, of course, takes up less actual -kitchen space. - -Some homes use a large incinerator in kitchens (stove type and small -ones in pantry or laundry). - - -OBJECTS - -The large installed incinerator should be able to burn up bits of paper, -sweepings, old boxes, soiled rags, garbage, smelly waste and reduce them -to sterile, odorless, clean ash. And if these things are not done -without clogging up your flues with oily combustion residues, etc., you -might as well burn your stuff in the kitchen stoves. The ash lift can be -used for various things. The ordinary portable type is primarily for -garbage but some get away with whatever is put in them. - - -CONSTRUCTION POINTS - -In the construction of the portable incinerator, the one that is placed -in the room and not below stairs, you must be sure it is so built that -the heat from burning is not communicated to the room to heat it up. -This means then that the maker must think of supplying the apparatus -with sufficient insulation to retain the enormous heat generated inside -which is somewhere around 1600 degrees Fahrenheit. Just as your ice box -is insulated against the cold air getting out, and the warm air getting -in, so must your incinerator be insulated. - -Besides, the lining of the incinerator must be durable and made to -withstand not only the heat but the tremendous attack on its walls of -chemical substances released in combustion. Sometimes fire brick is used -but usually clay or metal is used in the portable types. - -Furthermore, the incinerator becomes a fire peril if the insulation and -the lining is not 100% perfect. - -Again the devices of air intakes and outlets, etc., etc., are questions -for the engineer. All that we are concerned with, is whether the -apparatus does its work. - - -ECONOMY - -The cost of operation is practically nil. The fuel used is gas or coal. -Gas is the best method, the writer thinks. It takes only about twenty to -thirty cubic feet of gas per burning, as the gas is needed only to start -the operation and the evaporated garbage burns itself thereafter. Or -should! There is a type of portable incinerator which needs no fuel, -just burns by ignition of dry waste which burns the wet as it dries out. - - -CAPACITY - -The incinerators are made in various sizes, burn from one bushel of -waste and upwards, depending on the whys and wherefores of its -uses--whether it is the installed type, or the stove type, or for what -home or institution it is designed. - -The stove types are purchasable in sizes ranging from 15 inches (wide) -15 inches deep and 30 inches high, to respectively 31 × 34 × 64 inches, -and they range in price from about $70. and upward. (It isn’t safe, of -course, to give prices to-day on anything as they change continually.) - - -CASING - -They are usually built of very heavy serviceable castings, brass and -sheet steel, well lined and insulated. Everything is well hinged and the -grates, which are removable, are made so as to be easily taken out when -it is necessary to remove the ashes or substances not burnable except in -smelters. - - -SUMMARY - -So almost in conclusion the incinerator is sanitary, destroys refuse, -destroys it by burning not only the garbage but the products of the -garbage combustion at a minimum expense, and it should sterilize itself -and the flue in the process. - -And it does away forever with the back bending disposal of garbage into -low cans for the openings into which the garbage is put are high and -comforting. - -However, with all this we must not forget that garbage, if it can be -expeditiously taken off the premises at once and easily, is an immense -help as fertilizer and food for pigs. - -But it must have fine and careful care. The pits into which it is put -must also have careful structure and care. - -To the surburbanite the incinerator will be a boon--no more fussing -about garbage disposal and about who is going to collect it. - -And to apartment dwellers (and they are being put in apartments rapidly) -no more elevator and dumbwaiter garbage and all the rest of the garbage -nuisance. - -And to the new home builder, a sense of the disposal not only of garbage -but of a vexing sanitary problem. - -Furthermore, because you have an incinerator, it doesn’t mean that you -should burn up good left overs. Never burn up to-day what you can use on -the morrow, and with this injunction we think you will enjoy looking -into the subject of the disposal of waste. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -AIR AND ITS ENTRANCE AND EXIT - - -“Am I an _airess_?” not _heiress_, ought to be the question to ask -yourself if you are really a responsible home manager. It seems strange -that with all the air to be had for the asking you let it pass you by, -content with whatever draughts and gusts filter through the cracks and -crevices of your house. - -Now it so happens that although air is to be had for the asking, you -have to woo it if you want it. But it pays. Keep the air about you in -good condition and you and all those of your household will soon find -yourselves approaching the 100% efficiency ideal. - -Business has found this out already. Do you know of any factory, good -school, bank or department store, where there is not installed some sort -of ventilation apparatus including weather strips as well? Of course -not. Why? Because fresh air keeps costs down and keeps health up. On -this relation of health and output, efficiency depends. - -Does it not flash into your mind now that if housewives thought more of -home ventilation and especially kitchen ventilation, you might have -improved service, better tempered cooks, and more satisfactory life in -general? - -Of late there are cults of out-door fiends. All kinds of -cold-attracting, pneumonia-coddling out-door fanatics, who try to tell -you it is good to sleep in draughts, to have cold feet, and the like. -Their advice is wrong. The thing to do is not to subject yourself to -the rigours of cold, but to approximate, in your warm, comfortable -rooms, the sweet clean purity of out of doors. And this is easy to do by -proper ventilation. - -Ventilation can render air even better than the outdoor variety by -purifying it of dust and by supplying it with the right amount of -moisture and motion. - -For the ordinary home the great air conditioners and ozonators, which -are installed in institutions and factories, are unnecessary, so we will -not consider them. The best, simplest and least expensive ventilating -system for the home is the system regulated by fans and blowers, and to -this method we will introduce ourselves. - -Now, it is conceded by ventilating and heating engineers that the air, -to be healthful, must be in ceaseless motion, and it must be renewed -constantly and evenly. In other words, it doesn’t make much difference -if the air is burdened with carbon dioxide gas which we exhale from our -lungs, as it does if the air is stationary. Hence the use of air -agitators such as fans, etc. The theory is that, as the pores of our -skin exude moisture, the body is comforted and cooled by its evaporation -which is effected more readily by constantly moving air. Moving air, -however, does not mean a draught. - -In the ideally warmed house, the doors and windows are nicely placed so -that the warm air gracefully exits from the top of the room and the cold -air comes in from the lower parts of the room (such as lower windows or -well-placed air takers.) Thus, the air is moving nicely without the -least draught. - -So it will in the use of the fan and blower types of apparatus on the -market. But before we go on to describe them, it will be well for us to -review some of the reasons why humans need special air treatments. - -It is said by scientists that: - - A Woman exhales 600 cubic feet of carbon dioxide per hour. - A Young Man exhales 614 - A Young Woman “ 453 - A Boy “ 363 - A Girl “ 343 - -Whereas women don’t breathe so much of what is noxious yet they have to -look after their men folk! But joking aside, doesn’t this impress you -with the foolishness of inhaling so much vitiated air when the supply -can be renewed so easily with fresh air? Also when you realize that -humans give off 1000 grams of water vapor under normal conditions per -hour, and emit 350 British Thermal Units per hour. (A B. T. U. is the -amount of heat which will raise 1 pound of water 1° Fahrenheit or from -32° thru 33° of heat--at normal, not heavy work.) - -Another authority says that air should be renewed per hour: - - 10 times for public toilet rooms. - 6 “ “ clothes lockers. - 4 “ “ small meeting rooms. - 5 “ “ public offices. - 4 “ “ ball rooms. - 15 “ “ kitchens. - 20 “ “ laundries. - 3 “ “ libraries. - -The average air change in the average room is one to two times per hour. -In the well-built house it is two to three--due to fire-places, windows, -doors, etc. - -Of course there are other opinions, but this data gives you an idea of -the necessity of changing old for new air. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Ilg Electric Ventilating Co._ - -SHE IS COOL EVEN IN SUMMER WITH MOVING AIR] - - -GOOD VENTILATION - -The requisites then for good ventilation are: - - 1. Equable temperature from about 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and the - moderate relative humidity or moisture of 45 to 65 per cent. In order - to keep the room moist in winter it is well to keep a pan of water on - the radiator. Regular humidifyers can be bought for this purpose. - - 2. Clear air, free from impurities such as dust, insects, oily vapors, - soot, etc. - - 3. Odorless air (you have been sickened by the use even of the most - costly of perfumes!) free from gases and vapors. - - 4. Air motion; but the motion must be accomplished without those - objectionable blasts of wind that so frequently startle you in some - houses which are supposed to have the most up to date equipment. The - weather strip is insurance against the gale. - -Air isn’t a mysterious chemical combination. It is a mechanical mixture -of 21 parts nitrogen, 79 parts of oxygen, from 0 to 4% of moisture, and -usually 4 parts of carbon dioxide gas per 10,000 parts of air, so it -need not distress you to effect a good clean supply of air and equip -your house with some of the steadily improving devices now on the -market. - - -SOME DEVICES - -Any device to be useful to the home must, of course, be convenient, -economical, safe to operate, and durable. - -Well, let’s begin with the kitchen; for this ventilation is more -necessary than any place else in the house. - -Not only is it difficult to keep the kitchen in equable temperature, but -to have it cool often means a draft, and a draft means a cold for the -cook, and a cold for the cook means danger to the whole household. Then -there are odors from the kitchen. These are continually getting loose, -unless the door of the kitchen is kept closed (which is trying) and -infecting the house prematurely with the taste of dinner. All of which -is uncomfortable and gives the home a commonplace, tenementy atmosphere. -Your home may be judged by its laundry and cooking odors! The fewer, the -better. Did you ever think of that? - -The cellar is another important room to keep well aired and should be -provided with windows and doors to formulate a current of air. Pantry -and laundry, too, should be built with ventilation in view in order -that, as in the kitchen, these rooms can be kept sweet and savory. - -Without extra ventilation apparatus, you can take advantage of the -movement of air; as it cools, it falls and as this falls it is heated -and rises again--keeping up a rotary circulation: - - 1. Lower windows from top and bottom so that the warm air will go out - at the top and the cold air come in at bottom, starting the - circulation of air. - - 2. If not too draughty, have a door open opposite the windows, or use - a draught board or screen which can be easily placed on window sill to - curb current. - - 3. Cool moist air can be had often by hanging up a damp sheet and - re-wetting it as it dries. - - 4. Fireplaces with small or large fires in them cause air current. - - 5. In some rooms which have a grated air intake cut into the walls - near radiator--air circulation is effected easily. - - 6. Give the risen hot air a chance to get out of the top of room, and - give the cold air a chance to come in at the bottom of room--and keep - it agitated--this is about the best advice. If you can’t do this, call - in a ventilating and heating engineer--he will. - -With the new type of ventilators, cookery odors, draughts, smoke, steamy -vapors, smudges collecting over walls, curtains, etc., are obviated -because they are all dissipated and sent flying to the big outdoors. Its -blowers blow out the bad air. The apparatus, which is simplicity itself -to operate, is attached to the ordinary lamp socket and placed in -effective places. The improved motors are encased and almost -frictionless in action, which means the minimum wear and tear and no -cost for repairs. Some of the motors are self cooled which also does -away with wear and hot boxes. - -There are various kinds of fans which may be used. Those which change -their direction in process of revolution are good. Some think they are -better than the one-direction fan, and maybe, where the fan is used -alone without other attachments such as purifiers and blowers, this -style may be more efficient. It at least does the work more swiftly. But -whatever kind you use, they should be so placed as not to make draughts. -The steady movement of air is the only thing necessary, not hurricanes. - -In the study it is necessary to have light and air and no draughts to -blow papers away. The ventilator (which may be put on the window sill -over the radiator thus obviating the uncertain winds coming crassly -through the open window) will prove a boon to the writer or housewife. - -Oh, Homekeepers, it is often that these office devices which are always -employed where work is done, if installed at home, would keep your men -folk and even your women office workers happy. You would be surprised -how many people would come home to do after-hour work if the home were -as office-shape as business places. And the ventilator is a very good -point at which to start. - -It is nice to think that along with ice cream, the steam boat, and other -American inventions, applied ventilation seems to be an almost pure -American product! So, you patriots, here is a way to build real air -castles that will build finer and finer things as you profit by the -stimulus which fresh air, more than any one commodity in the universe, -can give. - - -WEATHER STRIPS AS AID IN VENTILATION - -No consideration of ventilation of houses could be complete without a -few words on the value of weather strips. It is strange too that this -precaution in the home is so little known and that the house-wife has so -little knowledge of their infinite good. - -Disregarding them as a factor in the cleanliness and noiselessness of -the home, disregarding in this chapter the intriguing facts of their -manufacture and application, they are adjunct at their best in the home -because: - -They reduce the possibilities of draughts and therefore reduce the -possibilities of colds and rheumatism and the like. See Chapter XXXIII. - -They keep the temperature of all the rooms as even as it is possible -here below to keep anything even and therefore give the ventilating -régime a square chance to function well. - -In keeping welcome air in and unwelcome air out, in so far as is -necessary, the reduction of fuel bills is enormous ... from 15 to 50%! -This to-day is a favorable asset when fuel is expensive. - -With all the systems of ventilating in the world, if you have tornadoes -flying about your floors from the air you do not wish admitted, you -cannot have a properly or healthfully ventilated home. - -In short, the weather strip makes it possible for you to have your say -as to the air that comes in and out and makes it possible for your -heating and ventilating systems to work as they should. The hit or miss -element in the home is again routed by the weatherstrip and anything -that does this is worth considering. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -THE PLUMBING IN YOUR KITCHEN - - -Once upon a time there was a business man who, upon buying his first -house, bought simultaneously a plumber’s kit. He was sure he could save -a lot of money by attending to simple matters himself. One day a simple -faucet sprung a simple leak. He confidently used a complicated tool and -the result was a vast sea of trouble. Plumbers! Expense! It is not -necessary to draw the moral. - -The plumbing in the house is akin to the alimentary canal in the human -body, and is as complicated a system as the alimentary canal. The system -of plumbing in the house is a series of pipes which carries water to the -house, and eliminates it as it carries with it various forms of waste, -connecting the house with the main sources of water, gas and with the -sewage system. The best plumbing is that which effects these things with -the least deterioration and with the least mixture of sewer gas and -foreign matter. - -Every community has its own plumbing laws and regulations. This is true -unless you build in very rural sections where there is no sewage system. -However, this article will deal only with conditions in which a sewage -system prevails. - - -PLUMBING LAWS - -As will be seen by the following excerpts from the plumbing laws of New -York City, the ordinary housewife need not worry about transgressing -the law, as everything, from the material used to the size of it and the -laying of it, is controlled. And the plumber is supposed to know these -rules before he is licensed. But it is in no way as glorious as poetic -license! - -All the materials must be of the best quality, free from defects, and -all work must be executed in a thorough, workmanlike manner. - -All cast-iron pipes and fittings must be uncoated, sound, cylindrical -and smooth, free from cracks, sand holes and other defects, and of -uniform thickness, and of the grade known in commerce as “extra heavy.” - -The size, weight and maker’s name must be cast on each length of pipe. - -All joints must be made with picked okum and molten lead and be made -gas-tight. Twelve ounces of fine, soft pig lead must be used at each -joint for each inch in the diameter of the pipe. - -All wrought iron and steel pipes must be equal in quality to “standard” -and must be properly tested by the manufacturer. All pipe must be -lap-welded. No plain black or uncoated pipe will be permitted. - -Each building must be separately and independently connected with a -public or private sewer, or cesspool, except where a building is located -in the rear of the same lot with another building, when its plumbing and -drainage system may be connected to the house-drain of the front -building behind the house trap and fresh air inlet which shall be used -for both buildings if sewer connected; or may be connected to an -existing cesspool of front house and be provided with a separate house -trap and fresh air inlet. - - -FURTHER PROVISION - -Where there is no sewer in the street or avenue, and it is possible to -construct a private sewer to connect in an adjacent street or avenue, a -private sewer must be constructed. It must be laid outside the curb, -under the roadway of the street. - -All pipes and traps should, where possible, be exposed to view. They -should always be readily accessible for inspection and repairing. - -In every building where there is a leader connected to the drain, if -there are any plumbing fixtures, there must be at least one 4″ pipe -extended above the roof for ventilation. - -The contents of settling chamber or dust receptacle for vacuum cleaners -may be discharged into a plumbing and drainage system. - -Leaders must be trapped with cast-iron running traps so placed as to -prevent freezing. - -Rain-water leaders must not be used as soil, waste or vent pipes, nor -shall any such pipe be used as a leader. - -To have an intelligent understanding of what the plumber has to know, it -might be well to know what certain terms are which are used in the -plumbing rules. - - -DEFINITIONS - -The term “private sewer” is applied to main sewers that are not -constructed by and under the supervision of the Department of Public -Works. - -The term “house sewer” is applied to that part of the main drain or -sewer extending from a point two feet outside of the outer front wall of -the building, vault or area to its connection with public sewer, private -sewer or cesspool. - -The term “house drain” is applied to that part of the main horizontal -drain and its branches inside the walls of the building, vault or area -and extending to and connecting with the house sewer. - -The term “soil line” is applied to any vertical line of pipe having -outlets above the floor of first story for water closet connections. - -The term “waste line” is applied to any vertical line of pipe having -outlets above the first floor for fixtures other than water closet. - -The term “vent pipe” is applied to any special pipe provided to -ventilate the system of piping and to prevent trap siphonage and back -pressure. - - -THE TRAP - -Most important from the hygiene point of view is the trap, which is a -curved pipe permitting the last of a flow of water to remain in the pipe -to prevent a back flow of sewage gas into the house. There are for use -various forms of traps under different circumstances which, of course, -are entirely the plumber’s business. - -In hotels and large institutions, and in some large homes, a grease trap -is built in the sink which is so constructed as to separate the grease -from the water, which obviates clogging of the pipes and which amasses -the grease which is sold to soap makers for soap. - - -FRESH AIR INLETS AND MAIN TRAPS - -Fresh air inlets and main traps are also for the prevention of odors and -gases coming directly from the sewer. The entrance of these gases often -takes place, even though the plumbing is excellent, by the settling of -the floors and foundation rendering the soil pipes defective. - -The question of soil pipes, etc., is sufficiently covered by the -plumbing regulations so far as not to need any explanations here. - -Every sink, of course, must have its own trap. - -The following are a few excerpts from the law: - - -SEWERS, DRAINS AND TRAPS - -must be of extra heavy cast-iron. When found in a leaky or defective -condition, shall not be repaired or replaced except with heavy cast-iron -pipe. - -The house drain and its branches must be of extra heavy cast-iron when -underground, and of extra heavy cast-iron or galvanized wrought iron or -steel when above ground. - -The house-drain must properly connect with the house sewer at a point -two feet outside of the outer front vault or area wall of the building. -An arched or other proper opening must be provided for the drain in the -wall to prevent damage by settlement. - -No steam-exhaust, boiler blow-off or drip-pipe shall be connected with -the house-drain. Such pipes must first discharge into a proper -condensing tank, and from this a proper outlet to the house sewer -outside of the building must be provided. In low pressure steam systems -the condensing tank may be omitted, but the waste connections must be -otherwise as above required. - - -SOIL AND WASTE LINES - -All main, soil, waste or vent pipes must be of iron, steel or brass. - -Soil and waste pipes must have proper Y or TY branches for all fixture -connections. - -The diameters of soil and waste pipes must not be less than those given -in the following table: - - Main soil stacks 4″ - Main waste stacks 2″ - Branch wastes for slop sinks 3″ - Branch waste for kitchen sinks 2″ - - -VENT PIPES - -All vent pipe lines and main branches must be of iron, steel or brass. -They must be increased in diameter and extended above the roof as -required for waste-pipes. They may be connected with the adjoining soil -or waste line well above the highest fixture, but this will not be -permitted when there are fixtures on more than six floors. - -Branch vent pipes shall be kept above the top of all connecting -fixtures, so as to prevent the use of vent pipes as soil pipes or -waste-pipes. Branch vent pipes should be connected not less than six -inches nor more than two feet from crown of trap or side of lead bend. - -No form of trap will be permitted to be used unless it has been approved -by the Superintendent of Buildings or the Board of Standards and -Appeals. - -No anti-siphon trap or deep-seal siphon-jet fixture shall be approved -until it has successfully passed such test as may be prescribed by the -Board of Standards and Appeals. - -A set of not more than three wash trays may connect with a single trap, -or onto the trap of an adjoining sink, provided both sink and tub waste -outlets are on the same side of the waste line, and the sink is nearest -the line. When so connected, the waste-pipe from the washtrays must be -branched in below the water-seal. - -The sizes for traps must not be less than those given in the following -table: - - Traps for slop sinks 3″ in diameter - Traps for kitchen sinks 2″ in diameter - Traps for wash-trays 2″ in diameter - -Now, of course, all the foregoing relates to the whole house as well as -to the kitchen. But, as the kitchen sanitary conditions depend upon the -same regimen, the foregoing is a basis for kitchen usage. - -The kitchen is mainly concerned with the water supply and water waste, -which is the result of cooking, washing, cleaning, and storage -(refrigerator). - - -SINKS AND CONNECTIONS - -The entry of water to the kitchen is effective through faucets, for the -most part, in some sort of a sink. What then should these sinks be, and -what should be the nature of their connections? For the most part, the -building law will take care of the connections, but you should see to it -that the traps are below the sinks and are in plain sight, and that the -materials used, for your own good, should not only be within the law, -but a little above it. Another thing you must remember, in ordering -sinks, is that they should be smooth, in one piece if possible, having a -seamless interior, non-absorbent, non-rusting, and with a certain amount -of elasticity, so that when hit by sharp and heavy utensils, neither the -utensil nor the sink is cracked or injured by the impact. - -The materials to be used in the making of sinks are tin, wood, -soap-stone, galvanized iron, slate, copper, enamel, enamel over iron, a -porcelain-like material over metal, and solid porcelain. Stone and slate -are poor because they are too absorbent. Wood is bad for the same -reason. Tin rusts, copper is difficult to keep clean and is rarely used -for anything but pantry sinks. Enamel over iron is excellent, porcelain -over iron is better, solid porcelain is regal but has the disadvantage -of having so little resiliency that dishes are apt to break when coming -too effectively in contact with it. This is often obviated in the pantry -by enclosing the pantry sink in a wooden casing. The surface of good -porcelain over metal will not scratch. - - -SECOND GRADES - -Solid porcelain sinks are all made from the same material, yet the -action of fire affects some differently from others. For instance, a -workman may fail to work out of the wet mould a bit of air in the clay, -and when this piece is fired in the kiln the air condenses and bursts -out and the result is a slight streak; or a bit of copper may get into -the clay causing a green stain on the piece. When such things occur, it -does not alter the value of the sink, but the high grade manufacturer -marks these “second grade.” This is well for you to know as it really -does not effect the lasting qualities and probably the initial cost is -lower. The shallower a sink is the easier, of course, it is to take care -of. - -The general run of sinks has the metal base with a porcelain-like -covering, as they are elastic and are kind to falling china. However, -you cannot go wrong in buying any of the enameled, or porcelain over -iron, or the solid porcelain, bought from the well-equipped, long -established manufacturies. There is one firm which makes a superb solid -porcelain sink in thirteen varieties, including two vitreous (porcelain -over metal) slop sinks. When you think of one firm making so many -varieties, and a few other firms making almost as many, it soon becomes -necessary for the domiologists to know what to tell a plumber to -install, before the masculine mind installs something for which you will -have little use. Of course, it depends first on what the sink is to be -used for. In large kitchens, the pot sink, vegetable sink, and slop sink -are used, sometimes two of some of these varieties. In the medium -kitchen, the pot sink and one of the others. In the small kitchen, just -the ordinary pot sink is used. - -Do not buy an all-roll sink; that is, a sink with a curved rim and no -back, unless your kitchen has a tiled wall. Why? Because your wall will -be splashed to the destruction point. - -Very commodious sinks measure 5′ 2″ over-all, back 9″ high, wall to -front, 26¹⁄₂″. This size sink is often in two divisions, one for -washing, and one for rinsing, and has integral drain boards (of self -material as part of the sink). If the integral drain board is not of -wood or metal, it can be rendered kindlier to china by a rubber mat. -Some sinks have a 5′2″ back, some just have a porcelain back behind the -faucets. - -A small sink a little over 3′ can be had with or without integral drain -boards on either side, and a vent at the right end, so as not to -interfere with the dishes. - -Speaking of drain boards, it is very often expedient to have them hinged -to the wall, or so attached to the sink that they can be let down and -out of the way. - - -PATENTED MATERIALS - -Sinks of patented materials, with trade names, which are often metals -with a porcelain-like covering, also come in many sizes and in many -designs, and are, as inferred above, quite as valuable in usefulness and -beauty as solid porcelain, with one exception, of course, that under -some remote circumstance a chipping off of the material may occur. But -the makers of solid porcelain sinks make a metal-coated slop sink where -an extra heavy thudding, by pails and cleaning instruments, is apt to -occur. This precaution speaks for itself. The solid porcelain certainly -gives you a feeling that you have the best, yet some of the greatest -houses in the country use the other types of sinks. - -Although we have touched upon the subject of drain boards, there are few -more words to say about them. - -The sink with a double drain board is, of course, the most convenient, -but this is not always possible. They are made of metal, such as copper -and zinc, and also of wood, either oak or ash, preferably ground ash, -hard enough to prevent absorption. Sometimes they are of metal over -wood. The porcelain drain board is easiest of all to clean, requiring -only a moist cloth passed over the porcelain or metal under porcelain, -while the others need scouring and scraping. The grooves in any of these -boards must not be so deep as to require digging to remove lost -particles. Most pantry sinks have the wooden drain boards and the wooden -enclosed solid porcelain sinks, just to save breakage. “Boards,” of -course, should always be slightly tilted toward the sink. - -It is wiser to have sinks 36″ high, or have them on adjustable -standards. - -If 36″ happens to be too high, a long wooden step can be provided. It is -better to step up than to form a crick in one’s back. - -However, any plumber will alter the standards, no matter what sink you -buy. Sinks are purchasable with from one to four standards, depending -upon what space in the kitchen is to harbor said sink. - -The standards of sinks are made of glass, brass, nickle plate, or -porcelain, or a porcelain coating over metal. Some of these standards -are supplied with adjustable bracelets, making it possible to raise and -lower the sink to desired levels. The nickle standard is very -desirable, as is the brass, but they require cleaning and polishing. The -glass and porcelain families need just to be rubbed down with a moist -cloth. - -Slop sinks are made to set lower than other sinks in order to obviate -lifting up heavy pails of water, etc. - - -OUTLETS - -The question of outlets in the sink is simple. The outlet should not be -perforated so minutely as to prevent rapid exit of the water, and yet -the holes must not be large enough to permit foreign matter to clog the -pipes of the plumbing system. Very often it is wise to have a wire net -over the outlet. Some sinks are equipped with stoppers and with -cylindrical outlets familiar in wash basins and bath tubs. In these -sinks the water is kept in until it is time to release it, obviating the -necessity of wash basins. Sunken outlets are a nuisance to keep clean. - - -FAUCETS - -Faucets are usually of metal, and high priced ones are of enamel. Some -sinks have two sets of faucets, two in each set. Some have a higher -faucet, a goose neck pattern, for filling carafes. The metal faucets are -generally brass and nickel plated. Brass corrodes and is hard to keep -clean. The nickel are very satisfactory but cost more. The enamel are -quite ideal because the polishing is absolutely obviated. In this case -it is a toss-up to the purchaser what it is best to save--time or money. -Then there is the pressure faucet--the one which has to be held in order -to get water out of it. These are quite hateful and ought never to be -used unless the water price is almost prohibitive. Sometimes a foot -pressure faucet is used in order that the worker may have his hands free -for work. A new faucet which can be swung into different positions is to -be had on the new pantry sinks. - -If the water pressure is extraordinarily high, try to get faucets on -your sink with air chambers to take care of this extra pressure. And -try, above all things, to buy faucets that emit a flow of water which -does not splash the worker. - -Unless you are a skilled mechanic, don’t try even to put a new washer in -your faucet to stop a leak. Because, unless you are skilled, you may -forget to shut the stop-cock which cuts off the sink from the main water -supply, which may be under the sink or in the cellar. - -And to prevent a woeful catastrophe, don’t forget, if you leave your -house unheated in the winter, to turn off the water in the cellar. - - -FILTERS - -The question of filters, (See Chapter XXXII, Polishing The Water Supply) -which are attached to faucets, is full of danger, as there are only a -few good ones on the market, and those that are good can be rendered, -through careless handling, much more of a menace than the ordinary water -supplied to you. The porcelain-like candle type is one of the best but -not absolutely fool-proof. The water sifts and filters through this -porcelain candle. If this is sent away to be thoroughly baked, at -regular intervals, according to the manufacturer’s description, it is -useful; but, when this is not done, the filter becomes a breeding place -for germs. Therefore, all things being unequal, boiled water is the -safest insurance against germs. - -As for the refrigerator’s (See Chapter XI Refrigerators) rôle, in the -plumbing of the kitchen: this is, of course, very important and very -simple. It is necessary to keep noxious gases from the stored food. If -possible, have a connection through the floor with the trap and pan in -the cellar. If this is impossible, have a trap and pan under the -refrigerator which can be often emptied. It is, of course, convenient to -have the ice box filled from the outside of the house rather than have -the ice dragged through the kitchen. - -These are some excerpts from the plumbing code: - - -SAFE AND REFRIGERATOR WASTE-PIPES - -Safe and refrigerator waste-pipes must be of galvanized iron, and be not -less than 1¹⁄₄″ in diameter nor larger than 1¹⁄₂″ in diameter with pipe -branches at least 1″ in diameter with strainers over each inlet. - -Safe and refrigerator waste-pipes shall not be trapped. They must -discharge over a properly water-supplied, trapped sink, with trap vented -unless an approved anti-siphon trap is installed in the manner specified -in Rule 91, such sink to be publicly placed, and not more than 4′ above -the floor. In no case shall any refrigerator or safe waste-pipe -discharge over a sink be located in a room used for living purposes. - -The branches on vertical lines must be made by Y or TY fittings and -carried up to the safe with as much pitch as possible. - -Where there is an offset on a refrigerator waste-pipe in the cellar, -there must be cleanouts to control the horizontal parts of the pipe. - -In all lodgings and tenement houses the safe and refrigerator -waste-pipes must extend above the roof. - - -HOMILIES - -When I started to write this article I thought I would give specific -plumbing rules, but the buying of fixtures is really all that is -necessary for the housewife to know, as all first class plumbers know -the rules of the code. So the best plan to adopt is to use the best -plumber. Even if he be expensive, he will save your money in the end. -And remember, always use one in your vicinity for, if you do not, you -will be very unpopular, as you will know when some dire emergency -emerges! - -If your pipes freeze in the winter, warm cloths until the plumber comes -is the best remedy. - -If you build in a remote district, have your water tested by an expert -on the spot, so that he can examine not only the water, but the source -of its supply, and help you in settling where to build your well or -pump, and where the cistern should go, etc., etc. - -After a new installation of plumbing is made, there is applied always a -test like the peppermint smoke test, etc., to see if there are any leaks -in the pipes. This is also accounted for in the plumbing code. - -Although not quite technically a plumbing fixture, there is a -ventilating, self-cooled motor propellor fan, which is being put up in -kitchens, to keep the kitchen cool in summer, and to remove traces of -excessive heat, steam smoke, and objectionable odors. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -KNIFE-LIFE IN THE KITCHEN - - -“I would like to have a vegetable knife,” says a woman to the salesman. - -“Yes, Madam,” says he, handing her a knife. - -“Thank you,” says the customer, not even looking at it. Then she goes -home and tries to pare a pumpkin with the dainty little flexible knife -that she has bought and finds that the task is quite impossible. Why? -Because she has used a knife not designed at all for anything but a -potato or an apple. - -Such things are very frequent because the purchaser doesn’t realize that -“vegetable knife” as well as “motor car” spells many types, and that the -knife is even more diversified in design than the car to meet various -kinds of work. What carpenter would think of cutting across the grain -with a plane meant for cutting with the grain? The carpenter realizes -the range of design in his tools, however. So should it be with women if -they wish to save their nerves, their hands and their time and make -their food look worthy of its cost. - -The background of the knife and fork is surrounded with historic -significance and romance. The knife seems to be the first-born of Father -Cutlery and the fork a late development as a table essential; and the -spoon comes so late that it isn’t even romantic. - -First of all, cutlery was developed from the hunting knife in various -guises. Then it became the sword of history. Not until the Middle Ages -were knives used on the table, and then only one or two. Not until two -or three hundred years ago were they used by each individual! And this -first took place in Italy. - -Ordinary cutlery was really first used in the form of the sheep shears, -very much like the shears used in the Rembrandt painting: The Old Woman -Cutting Her Nails. - -Before steel was used, bamboo, shell, then copper, bronze, tin and -copper and the so-called “steel” of Damascus were the materials out of -which the knives and swords were built. - -As forks were a later development and were used at first only as a means -of helping the diners from the central dish, it was necessary for the -diners to wear gloves to shield them from the rigors of hot foods. -Therefore, with such methods it was necessary to recover in sanitary -fashion and to this end servitors would meet each diner with a bowl of -water and a towel. Thus has the finger bowl descended unto us. - -For some time after the knife and fork were used generally, each person -would carry his own beautiful set in a handsome case at his belt or -girdle. During the 18th Century when the fork was commonly used it was -with the knife superbly fashioned of jewels and metal work. For the most -part forks were two pronged, and not until Louis XV of France did the -four-tine fork come into being. - -So from the hunting knife and the crotched wooden stick was born our own -diversified cutlery. Not only in steel of fine temper and hardness, but -recently of steel with the added qualities of stainlessness. - -Although Sheffield, England, in the past has the reputation for the -finest cutlery in the world, and although Sheffield must be given the -credit for fathering the craft, yet the United States to-day is making -some of the best cutlery and bids fair to outmake and outsell the world -in quantity and quality. - - -KITCHEN CUTLERY - -The subject of kitchen cutlery, the one which this chapter is dealing -with, does not interest itself in silver plate and all the cutlery so -beautifully made for table use. The same general principals apply, but -there is too little space here to go into the detail of pattern, brands -and general details of table cutlery. - -However, the blades for most cutting articles are made of shear steel, -and for this crucible cast steel and forged steel are used. - -The essential parts of the process of cutlery making are: (1) forging; -(2) hardening and tempering; (3) grinding; (4) polishing; (5) -assembling, honing and the finishing touches; and these are subdivided -into many divisions, making nearly a hundred in some instances and more -in others. - -The last division is the one which the “cutler” does to-day. In the 18th -Century the cutler did the whole work of making a knife, but to-day the -polisher polishes and the grinder grinds, etc. The hundreds of processes -to-day in the course of the manufacture of one piece of cutlery are in -the hands of nearly as many workmen. - -Of course, the value of modern cutlery is in the finesse of manufacture -and the quality of steel that is used, and in the perfection of its -varying parts and their assembling. - -Knives are meant to cut. - -Knives, therefore, must be so made that they will keep their cutting -edges, so proportioned as to fit the thing to be cut; so limber or so -stiff as to be comfortably wielded; so assembled as to keep their -handles fastened to them; and so balanced (even as a golf club) as to -be not only easy but pleasant to use. Pleasant tools make light work. - -The knife has three or four main parts--the blade; the tang (that part -which fits into the handle); the handle itself, or haft, as it is -sometimes called; and in some cases a metal ferrule. Much depends upon -the way these parts are made and fitted; they must be so married that -nothing can divorce the knife from the handle, so that they will -preserve their oneness indefinitely. The great Reno for the knife is the -huddled drawer in which it is for the most part kept, but more of this -later. - - -VARIETY IN KNIFE-LIFE - -The kinds of knife in which the housewife is particularly interested -are: carvers, vegetable slicers, parers, fruit, cleavers, etc. -Subdivided, they are: paring, bread, meat, poultry, carving, cake, -boning, paring (small pocket type style), spatula, lemon, grape and -orange, curved in French, German and American fashions, cleavers and -scrapers. - -Where it is necessary for a knife to conform to shape in paring, a -flexible knife is more comfortable than a stiff one. Therefore, if you -want a vegetable knife for slicing potatoes never think of buying a long -stiff one because your work will be seriously impeded. If you have the -right tool the job of paring, or what not, will be as much fun as -carving is for the artist who in his turn always has the correct tool. - -“Gracious, I can never slice a ham that doesn’t look as if some one bit -it up,” said a friend of mine. - -As gently as I could I told her it was because she was trying to do the -impossible. She used a knife for bread and cake, broad and short, and -expected it to do the work of a long, thin blade slightly curved off at -the end. The heavy, wide-bladed knife cleaves to the surface of the -meat and makes it a practical impossibility for any ordinary mortal to -push it through. The narrow blade is what you must have, as it requires -less strength and cuts therefore more efficiently. The knife with the -almost scimitar formation makes it simple to cut around a bone. - -Most everybody has a bread knife, so we need not bother about that -familiar object, but the only thing necessary is that the bread knife -should be kept for bread (and kept sharp) as far as possible, unless it -is adapted by having a medium wide blade, to cut meat and cake. - -For hot meats a rather flexible, but not too flexible, knife should be -used, especially in the case of hot steaks and ham. It is a real comfort -to have a good knife for these things; the meat is not chewed before its -time and is not wasted in formless gobs. - -For the person who must economize on the number of utensils, a knife -about 8″ or 9″ long with rather wide blade can be bought which can very -comfortably be used for cold meat slicing as well as bread and cake. A -set of six knives, two spatulas and two forks, will fill most kitchens’ -needs. Other knives and forks can be added as specials. Here is the 2″ -paring knife, 3″ for splitting. The general household keeps a fork with -the French pattern blade for general work and the heavy 6″ blade for -cutting vegetables such as turnips, pumpkins, squashes, etc., where a -thin blade would snap; the fork has hardened blades with needle points. -The spatula for pastry works as well as the wide spatula. The carving -knife in 8″ short blade, and the flexible slicing knife with 9″ blade -usable for cold meats, cake, bread, etc., and the general utility knife. - -For tough cutting and broad surfaces the narrow, stiff knife is best, -for crumbly broad surfaces the broad, stiff knife. For rather tough, -small surfaces, to be pared and trimmed, the medium flexible, narrow -blade is best. Use the narrow and stiff and short knife for tough small -surfaces like squash and turnips. With these simple logical suggestions -the knife problem is easy. - -“Had I only learned the use of the spatula in cooking school I should -have thought my course to be a lifelong economy.” This was said somewhat -in jest, but it shows just what the value of the spatula is. It is an -economy. It is not a cutter but a very flexible, bendy blade with round -corners which can assume the curve of any vessel and pick up dough or -anything left behind in bowl or pastry board which is worth saving. It -is a scraper and saver. You need not waste a bit of the precious egg on -the sides of your dish or a bit of batter if you use the spatula. It -also lifts comfortably the egg, griddle cake, fish etc., from the pan. -It is really a joy unbounded. - -A larger sized spatula is a convenience, too, for scraping and cleaning -large kettles and also for a cake or pie lifter. Being larger it is a -trifle stiffer. One corner of the end of this blade is sharp and the -opposite corner is round. The reasons are obviously for attacking -corners and not scratching surfaces. - - -HOME BUTCHERING - -In some homes a certain amount of butchering is done in the kitchen, -sometimes to save expense and sometimes for certain and very fine -results if the chef is a jewel. - -To this end there are some good implements on the market: strong, well -balanced and riveted to give good service. Knife blades for this work -range from 5″ to 14″ in length and are in various styles. - -The cleaver is a good thing to have should the butcher sometimes neglect -to break a furtive bone. These come in pleasant weights and dimensions, -the one with blade 6″ long by 2¹⁄₂″ wide, weighing in all one pound. - -In connection with knives for fruits and vegetables you will be -interested in the story of the late product of steel which is so fast -coming to the markets of the world. It is stainless steel. A steel (with -an admixture of chromium) which resists rust, does not corrode or scale, -and is impervious to food acids (with the exception of the mustard plus -vinegar plus salt combination which makes a muriatic acid, which is the -acid with which steel is etched). - -It keeps a fine edge and is of fine temper and hardness when made by -accomplished manufacturers. The steel you use now is a carbon steel. -Before the war, both in England and America, it was rapidly coming into -our markets, but the value of such steel was so patent to governments -that the war and construction departments used it all. Now, however, it -can be bought even in some department stores. - -Think of not having to scour or polish your knives. Think of the knife -having an indefinite life and always looking highly polished. Soon, too, -even the handle will be made of this steel and the knife will look like -a highly polished silver utensil. - -What may this mean in a servantless home? - -No cleaning powders must be used to clean this steel; only warm water -and a mild soap. Its advent reminds you of the early days of aluminum -utensils, doesn’t it? The manufacturers are planning to make kettles, -pots, and pans of it, as they will wear well, and will not scale and -wear as do iron ones. - -As this steel is non-staining, the hands are not stained as much when it -is used with fruit juices; the factor of the juice combining with the -elements in the steel is absent. There are some people whose hands stain -from certain juices whereas the hands of others do not, but generally -speaking, there will be less hand staining with this newer steel. - -If you do your own work, how your hands will be saved! - -The few years of its service may not have revealed all of its good -points or some of its bad points. Only time will tell, of course. But as -a fruit knife at present the stainless type seems to be a fine thing, -though the ordinary steel knife, if sharp and well made, is no less of a -joy than ever it was. Manufacturers are adopting the stainless--even -those who think that it isn’t as good as it is claimed to be. - -Vegetable and fruit slicers and parers come in many sizes and styles. -They are usually small and light with narrow blades and sharp. They are -to be had in stainless and carbon steel in sets and in singles, and when -bought wisely make the kitchen maids’ job an artistic one. - -Grape-fruits and oranges have knives for their very own. Manufacturers -have given much time and thought to the easiest method of preparing -these fruits easily, without loss of juices and flavor, and without -waste of time on the part of the operator. And so there have been born a -few of these knives which are excellent and live up to their glowing -advertisements. - -Their characteristics are: Two-edged, like the great swords of old. They -cut from either the right or left with ease; the blade is curved to fit -the fruit and has rounded points so as not to lacerate the outer skin -and waste the juices and spoil the shape of the fruit. The blade is -exceedingly sharp and honed carefully like a razor--the sharper it is -the swifter it will do its work. The blade must be securely fastened in -the handle. The handle must be light, of comfortable shape and well -balanced. In a few words, the knife must be able to get down and under -the center, cutting the side segments as well as making the tough walls -“fade away” easily. - -[Illustration: DEVICES DESIGNED BY THE AUTHOR FOR KEEPING CUTLERY IN -CUTTING FORM] - -The knives are made in stainless steel, in nickel-plated steel and in -the ordinary and fine vanadium steel. Your fruit when prepared with -such a knife may look as if hands never touched it. - - -HANDLES - -The question of handles is interesting because the knife without the -handle, however sharp it may be, is of little use. The main question is -of ease in gripping, in the balance, and in the duration of time that -the blade will stay firm in the handle. - -There are many ways of accomplishing these things: in some cases the -tang of the blade is cemented in the handle. This is done where the -knife is used with little pressure and strength, such as the -feather-curling knife of the milliner; there are some knives which are -riveted such as butchers’ knives because much force is used with them; -household knives are pinned and pinned and cemented sometimes, and in -the case of home butcher knives as many as three pins are used to keep -the handle steady. - -With knives like the corrugated types, there are often metal wire -handles drawn out on them. The corrugations on these blades are to -obviate tearing and reduce, some think, the pressure necessary in -cutting. - -Handles themselves are made of various things,--woods, rubberoid, -celluloid, metals, stag and in the case of table knives, -mother-of-pearl, shell, silver over nickel, etc. - -The kitchen knife handle must be able to stand all heats, be impervious -to hot water, be smooth and comfortable in shape, and must be nicely -finished so as to give the worker a feeling of worth-whileness in his -job. Sloppy tools make for sloppy work. Think of your cutlery as the -dentist does his tools and you will feel professional. - -The housewife errs in no place quite so much as in the care of her -cutlery. In nine and one-half houses out of ten the good blades are -huddled and hustled into a drawer where they loosen from their handles, -nick, scratch and hammer each other to their own destruction. What good -is there in having good materials if they are to be stored in this -manner? - -[Illustration: ANOTHER DEVICE DESIGNED BY THE AUTHOR FOR KEEPING CUTLERY -IN CUTTING FORM] - -Consider the carpenter how he stores! He hangs each tool in a certain -groove, and as he desires a certain thing he extracts it. He can’t -afford to have auto-destruction--it is too extravagant a disease. Yet it -is the hardest thing in the world to make the housewife hang up her few -knives and keep them forever in good shape. - -Clean them after every using. It’s easier then. A little scouring powder -now and then will keep them in condition. Do not use scouring powders -with stainless steel, as it reduces the polish--the very thing which -maintains its imperviousness to stain. - -All new knives should be so finished when you buy them that they need no -further edging. The best manufacturers see to this and have a department -just to hone and make knives ready for use. - - -SHARPENING - -The housewife’s best method of sharpening or rather keeping the edges -straight and keenly cutting is the steel. When the knife really gets -dull it should be ground. The use of the stone or carborundum by the -ordinary operator often wears the steel. However, if the use of the -grinder or the stone or the carborundum is really known, time and money -will be saved in the sharpening process. Sharp knives save temper, save -food to a great degree, and therefore if you can’t sharpen knives -yourself send them out to be taken care of once or twice a year. - -There is a special stone on the market for stainless steel sharpening; -it is well to get this for your stainless utensils. Follow the -directions with it carefully. - -All sharpening steels should have a guard for the hand in case the knife -slides back towards the fingers. - -Never hold the knife on edge on the steel, for it should be quite flat; -remember you are trying to flatten the two sides toward the edge, and -thereby make it a better cutter. - -There are good rotary grinders and polishers on the market, and -knowledge of them and their use is very valuable. There are also stones -flat and stones in handles, all for keeping knives sharp. They are yours -if you want them and realize that you must know how to use them to save -rather than to destroy your cutlery. - -The story of forks is almost the same as that of its confrères, knives. - -The tines must be rigid and sharp enough to pierce immediately and not -drop their prey by dull points. - -Forks were not meant to open cans or lift lids. Many a perfect fork has -had its life history snapped by this usage. - -As with the sharpening steel, so with the fork which accompanies the -carving knife--it too should have a guard to prevent the knife slipping -and injuring the left hand. - -If you buy the best cutlery from the most representative firms you will -have the best results and be well repaid. Good cutlery, like everything -good, is more expensive than the cheap varieties. Good cutlery may stand -up longer under bad usage than poor cutlery; but don’t tempt it and -waste your money! - -A little care with cutlery will curtail your bills, give your food a -better appearance and swifter accomplishment, for, after all, the -kitchen work is mostly cutting up. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -THE ANCIENT WOOD IMPLEMENTS - - -In these days of metals, electricity and enamels, you are very prone to -forget that there is still virtue in the ancient wood, which with true -aristocratic gentleness, has given way to those more parvenu products -that boast their sanitary qualities. - -To-day there are still things of wood for the kitchen, pantry and -laundry which are retained to advantage and other things which can be -kept, if not with advantage, at least for utility. - -Some purchasers have wasted time in their zeal to kill entirely the wood -tradition and substitute metals in every instance. To save this time, -this article is written and dedicated to you who would have the right -thing, be it of the darker ages or of this so-called sanitary or -enlightened era. - -For example, could you ever use a metal plank for planked fish or meats? -Of course not! The wood itself in this case gives up its own essence as -it combines, through the medium of heat, with the juices of the food -cooked on its surface. What metal could do this without imparting the -metallic taste to the bill of fare? - -These planks come in different sizes and shapes. The best are of oak. -Some cost more than others. But the thing to remember is that a plank is -like wine, the older it is, that is, the more it is used and becomes -impregnated with the empyreumatic flavors of the food stuffs, the more -exquisite become its quality and the better flavor it imparts to the -food. - -According to Nicholas Sabatini, Chef of Delmonico’s the best thing to do -with a plank when you buy it is to keep it for at least six weeks, to be -sure that it is seasoned sufficiently. After using a plank, do not soak -it in water, but clean it off with a damp cloth only. Then keep it under -a weight of some sort to prevent any probable warping of the wood. Mr. -Sabatini was very insistent about the plank being of oak, as any other -wood imparts too definite a flavor of its own to the food stuffs cooked -on it. - -Ironing boards have never been replaced with metal to any large extent. -It is their “give” when swathed in “white stuff” that makes them -comforting and usable. Even the modern bracketed ironing boards are -wooden with the exception of their metal joints and arms, enabling them -to be folded against the walls or put out of the way. So, too, the -sleeve and skirt board. Time would be wasted in hunting for a more -modern material to use for these staples. - -Ironing folding tables are neat little things for the small house. These -are made of white wood. They will not last a lifetime but they are -inexpensive and useful. - -Skirt boards come from 3′ to 6′ long and the sleeve board around 18″ to -20″ long. - -In some cases where there is available both a wooden article and a china -or metal, it is often better to get the non-wooden. For example, the -wooden salt box; good enough in its way but it is out-ranked by the -china, porcelain or composition boxes, because these materials look -better, wear better and cannot help being smoother and less fibrous than -the wooden variety. So would you rather buy sharpeners, flour sieves, -some of the pot racks and sink racks in metal garb than wood, although -there are some sink racks of wood which not only have a porcelain lining -but save breakage of china. - -Chopping bowls of sugar maple (not southern maple) are kitchen -necessities. These do not splinter and they make the din of chopping -less obnoxious. The rotary chopping machine is not always analogous to -the chopping bowl, for who could chop parsley as well in a chopper as -with blade and bowl? - -Wooden bread boards and cake boards, of course, are invaluable (pie -“boards” are better of marble, porcelain or their cognates). These must -be of hard wood such as maple or birch and so made as to be knotless, -crackless and long grained. A damp cloth will remove traces of material -used thereon. - -The onion should have its own little chopping board for obvious reasons. - -Noodle boards are oblong, usually of white wood and come from 14″×20″ to -20″×30″. These have a descending ledge at the near side to hold fast to -the table and an ascending ledge on the far side to keep the dough from -sliding off. Bread boards are round and are from 10″ to 11″ in diameter. -Pastry boards can be had from 12″×16″ to 20″×30″. - -The wooden step, non-rickety and solid, is of inestimable value in the -kitchen where the worker is too short for the tables or tubs, or where -things must needs be on high shelves. The step chair which readily is -changed from ladder to chair combines a 2-in-1 arrangement, that makes -room in a kitchen by obviating extra chairs and extra space for a pair -of steps or ladder. - -We would warn purchasers against the salesman of wood garbage buckets or -pails. In no case are they as sanitary as regular metal containers. - -But the oak pail, keg or bucket for cider, vinegar, preserves or water -is a good culinary adjunct. They are hard, firm and well constructed in -the best makes. Often these things have been quite forgotten and yet -they are quite useful in kitchen economy. - -Wooden pails come for various uses--scrubbing pails, water pails, jelly -pails and flour pails. They are made with two or three hoops and are of -pine, cedar, oak grain or oak. The flour pails hold from 12¹⁄₂ to 50 -pounds of flour. The jelly pails hold from 5 to 30 pounds of jelly and -are a convenience to the house-keeper who puts up a lot at a time and -who has a large menage. - -The large wooden spoon for use in acid cookery--preserves and the -like--is indispensable to the epicurean household and should be on every -kitchen utensil list. - -The clothes-horse is practically an extinct animal. In its place has -come a different species of varying kinds. Some fold up against the -wall, some are pulleyed up to the ceiling and get the ascending heat of -the room for drying and some don’t fold at all. Some are built for porch -use, garden use and roof use. But all are less aggressive than the -extinct “horse.” - -A close relation to the clothes rack is the towel rack and hand towel -roller, usually of wood and made as well of this material as any other. - -The bread and pastry roller is usually of wood and is quite efficient. -There are glass rollers on the market but, of course, these can chip. -Special noodle rollers are made now of maple and birch and are long and -thin, giving quick contact like a low gear! Some rollers have designs -cut in them for finishing off a bit of dough with a pattern. - -Potato, slaw and bread cutters are merely wood receptacles with cutting -blade insertions. - -Knife drawers or racks with grooves to keep the knife blade inviolate -are too little used. This is one of the things that will make the -kitchen a more proper tool chest, prolong the life of cutlery and save -time in the search for wanted knives on the part of the worker. These -are being made in compact, useful fashion to meet the needs of the well -ordered kitchen. We can’t stress the housing of cutlery hard enough--and -it is a real housing problem. - -The pot cover rack for those who do not hang up their pots is a great -comfort. It is inexpensive and easily installed. With these cover racks -you easily identify the cover and it doesn’t get lost in a dark closet, -although many folks think quite the contrary and deplore the newer -methods of hanging up pots and their covers to the public gaze. - -The question of serving butter delightfully is taken care of by keeping -it in the ice box in a stone crock, and making butter balls with little -wooden butter pats. There are also wooden butter prints, which enable -one to serve butter in forms with a probable little raised design on its -top surface. These come in a flattened butter ball size and also in -¹⁄₂-pound print moulds. - -The question of wood in the kitchen becomes acute in the handle -situation. Brushes, brooms and mops of all kinds have wooden handles, -and the handle makes for comfort and comfort for efficiency. Therefore -it is not out of place here to give a few suggestions as to what a -handle ought to be: - - 1. Smooth--no splinters--hard non-porous. - - 2. Easily held in hand (if on scrubbing brush, sink brush, etc.). - - 3. Long enough to do the work (if on wall or ceiling or radiator - brush). - - 4. Set firmly in its socket and easily set in (if on mop, wall brush, - etc.). - - 5. Non-snapping, not brittle (if on a wall duster). - - 6. Enameled to resist heat and water. - -The mallet and the potato masher are heavy tools and quite necessary. -The former is usually of hickory or lignum vitae, the latter of maple. -The potato masher’s function is obvious, but the mallet is often needed -for cracking a bone, or ice. For fixing lobster and making a chicken go -a long way a mallet is quite a little “fixer.” - -The coffee mill and the sink rack can be as well made of wood as of -metal. Yet this does not need to preclude the metal ones for those -wanting them. The wooden ones themselves are really more of hardware -than of wood. - -The mouse trap of wood used once and then to be thrown out is rather a -pleasanter idea than using the same impregnated trap over and over -again. These are cheap and ready to use at any time. - -The wooden salad set, knife, spoon, fork, are rather epicurean but seem -to be passing out of fashion. - -Tables of wood are so common that they need little description, yet a -few suggestions may be of real value. The table with the stove is all -important in the kitchen. It is so valuable, indeed, that it has been -lately combined with the dish-washer and the effete refrigerator in -order to make it possible in limited spaces to install these quite noble -but less royal things. - -Tersely said, the table must be large enough for the work to be done, -steady on its legs, simple in construction and easily kept clean and -wholly sanitary. - -If possible metal capped legs will prevent the legs becoming unlevel by -swelling when the floor is washed or shifting through general use. The -table top would easily take a whole story; the main requisite is that it -be hard, easily cleaned and scraped--be it of wood, composition, marble, -metal or of the porcelain family. - -Kitchen tables 3′ to 7′ long, with and without shelves beneath and also -with or without closets and drawers below. - -The wooden top of maple is most satisfactory and probably, of all the -table tops, most used. Yet for those that can afford the wooden table -with marble top and German silver trimmings, nothing could be more -perfect even though the price soars. - -Finally, if there be benefit in this article take from it suggestions -for the wooden wedding gift. Few people think of the kitchen as a realm -for gifts. In our experience presents of culinary use have been a boon -to many householders, especially at the wooden wedding period. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -GLASS WEAR - - -Glass ware is now no longer for ornament alone, but for cooking uses as -well. - -The only way to tell if you have a good piece of glass or not is to -compare it to other pieces for color and sound. If it sounds clear and -bell-like, it is pretty sure to be a good bit of glass. But don’t strike -it if it happens to be in a groove or it will, of course, shatter it, as -the pieces will have no room to vibrate and will break the bounds. - - -ANNEALING - -Annealing is the process brought to such a perfection to-day that glass -can be made almost shell proof. In fact glass for automobile windows was -and is being made that when it is struck will not shatter but will -simply crack or craze. This process is one of careful heating and -cooling many times repeated. It makes the glass more elastic so that the -particles are in more of a state of equilibrium and can be struck -without danger of breaking. - - -MANUFACTURE - -The basis of all glass is soda, aluminum or oxide of lead in combination -with silica of sand. Doesn’t this sound hiphalutin? Well, it isn’t. Then -this is heated to something like 1200 degrees Fahrenheit and when in -molten form is blown with air incorporators into the requisite shapes. -You no doubt have seen glass blown at bazaars or fairs. But of course -this blowing in the factory is done with huge blowers. The best glass is -dependent on its base as it is combined with lead. This combination is -the fine glass called flint glass. And it is from flint glass which has -the luster that the cut and engraved glass is made. - - -COLOR - -The color in glass is given to it by the use of metal oxides, blue is -derived from copper oxide, yellow from iron oxide, the stunning reds -from gold. Don’t these facts, make glass more interesting to you? - -Rock crystal is the fashion now and probably will persist. But don’t, -for goodness’ sake, be untechnical enough to say anything but polished -engraved glass, when you speak of it! The old time glass with -intersecting canyons cut in it which left tell tale gouges in one’s -fingers, is dead and if you use it you are dead too! Now be it -remembered, it’s polished engraved alias rock crystal. - - -HOW IT DIFFERS FROM CUT GLASS - -Cut glass is decorated with geometric lines by means of steel wheels and -carborundum used for the cutting. Then these lines are smoothed with -stone wheels and given a high polish. Some manufacturers press in the -design by putting the glass into moulds in its moulten state, but this -makes the cheaper glass commonly called Pressed to imitate the cut -variety. Then the glass is cooled and the effects are often good enough -to fool the ordinary person. Cut glass can always be distinguished from -the pressed by feeling the inside of the cutting, where it is the -deepest, and if there is a slight lump corresponding to the cutting it -is surely cut and not pressed. - -Engraved glass is thinner than the cut glass very often and is decorated -by copper wheels fed with emery and oil, which does not cut so deep. The -skill of the designer and workman are the only limits to the beauty of -this glass. This kind of decoration is left in the satin gray finish -with the exception of the polishing out of the centers of the flowers, -and other figures according to the taste of the engraver. This gives the -contrasts in gray and clear glass which give the tonal value to the -glass. And when the engraving is sunk deeply and then polished, it is -called rock crystal because it has the peculiar colorless mat-finish -brilliancy of the natural rock crystal. - - -COLORED GLASS - -What about colored glass? There is much of it about, some of it the -frank imitation of the old stuff and some of it the real old thing. It -is very popular. The reason it isn’t epidemic is because one has to have -all the fixings with it to use it well and to be _au fait_. Unless one -has center pieces and side dishes and flowers and, to go even to -extremes, old chairs and antique refectory tables, colored glass gives a -vagrant restless spotty cast to the table! You know what it means to -have everything _en rapport_, in the way of expenses and fussing these -days! ... to the majority of people anyway. And so when colored glass is -used, even if one has all the articles necessary, real vision must be -employed and discrimination exercised in massing everything to give the -ease and grace (the basis of beauty) necessary. - -One of the most interesting things about glass to-day is that a firm in -America has been taking the _Grand Prix_ and the Gold Medal in a -competition with the glassmakers of the world in Paris! And some of the -best glass is made in little old America! Talk about American prowess! -And too, because the foreign markets have not been able to make the -rather staple enamel and gold glass, America has again stepped in, and -has been engaged in making this sort of glass too, and making it well. - -Some very old and exclusive dealers say colored glass is not in vogue -because these firms have in their clientele very selected people who -probably do not buy it as they have inherited all they need. -Furthermore, many of their clients don’t want to be bothered with it. -But from the way colored glass has been selling in some places it is -certainly safe to say it is very popular. Yet on the other hand many -dealers are afraid to stock up heavily with it because they fear a -slump. At any rate, the manufacturers can hardly keep up with the demand -for their excellent reproductions of the old Scotch, English, Irish and -Venetian glass. But many hostesses like it because it takes such taste -and skill to assemble a table when it is used. - - -COOKING GLASS - -No other utensils on the market combine as these do, beauty, durability, -economy and cleanliness even if the initial cost is more. You see they -save fuel, because they cook food more rapidly, they save the cook’s -time and the waitress’s time because they save the cooking time, and -because they are easy to clean, collecting no burn to be forced off and -no food to be laboriously scraped away. Besides all this, the food can -be served directly from the stove without putting it into another dish -for the table. This saves more time and insures hot food. It doesn’t -crack in the oven, it comes in many styles--it is not inexpensive but it -is worth the outlay. - - -PLATE-GLASS - -Of late, plate-glass has been taking an important part in the household. - -This glass differs from other glass in the way it is made. In short it -is spread over iron tables in a molten state and cut and trimmed to -measure. It is made more carefully than other flat glass and of the -finest material. It is, of course, very carefully annealed to make it as -soft and as little brittle as possible. - -For the tops of bureaus, dressing tables, desks, shelves, medicine -cabinets, etc., it has no equal. It is easy to clean and protects what -is under it. Many are using it now for the tops of dining tables and -sideboards and serving tables. This is a good way to protect the table -and save laundry as beautiful linens shine through the glass and yet do -not soil so readily. The same can be said of the glassed bureau scarf -and the dressing table where so much may be spilled. - -Some people who do their own work like plate-glass for the kitchen -table. As yet we feel that the brittleness of plate-glass makes the -kitchen table a little too temporary, yet while it lasts it is a comfort -for pastry work as well as for anything else. - -For the motor it reduces danger in driving, and looks better. For the -house doors and windows it adds 90 per cent. to the elegance of the -lay-out. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -THE BRIDE’S KITCHEN - - -We moderns are so up to date that although we expect our women to marry -they know less of the kitchen needs and the infant’s psychology than of -the constituencies of the planets’ atmospheres. So to correct some of -the deficiencies we are going to list in this article the prices of the -necessities of the bride’s kitchen at the present, which you must -remember are subject to daily change and can only give you approximate -values as this book reaches you months after the data is collected. - -To-day prices veer so rapidly that we can only hope that they will not -veer upward before your kindly eye peruses these pages. - -Whether you use electricity, oil, gas, or wood should be part of the -determining factors in buying utensils. For this reason we will, as far -as possible, designate the special uses of these utensils whenever -possible or necessary. - -May it be said at the start that aluminum and enamel (best quality) can -be used on any stove. Aluminum is more expensive but doesn’t blacken up -on the stove and lives longer than enamels. We will not take up copper, -as it is too heavy and costly for the ordinary kitchen and takes too -much labor to keep in the brightened condition in which it should be -kept. - -We favor glass whenever it can be substituted for kitchen utensils as -the most ideal oven utensil. If your purse can stand it and its initial -expense, it will save fuel, time and energy in the end and therefore -money. - - -THE LISTS - -Our omissions in this listing in any case are due to personal experience -and choice and also to a feeling that there are many things that can be -omitted when the kitchen is started and be put in later when exigencies -appear and the income is greater. - -We have purposely not added up the list to get an aggregate expenditure -as it would mean little when cheaper or more expensive materials can be -substituted. Therefore we have given but the individual costs which can -be combined in the ways you desire. Thus the list is meant to be a -nomenclature rather than a hard and fast formula, a _vade mecum_ rather -than a crystallized rule of thumb. - -You may consider some things unnecessary in these lists. Again, the list -is a personal compilation, as lists are as yet not machine-made, and the -maker has considered what are the essentials to culinary habits. - -Nor have we mentioned stoves as a consideration of the first tool chest, -because the architect or the landlord in many cases has decided this for -you. If you need to purchase a stove your choice is usually bounded by -the kind of fuel which is cheapest in the place your spouse has -necessarily to live. - -So, although utensils are dependent on the stove and stoves on utensils, -we have omitted the stove here but if you read chapters VI, VII, VIII -you will get data on ranges and can find out from the manufacturers the -present cost. - - -CABINETS AND CONVENIENCES - -Were we fitting out a kitchen we would either buy a kitchen cabinet or -have one built in the home of the steel unit type. We have not included -it in the list for fear of being too commanding, and it can be dispensed -with if the shelving and hanging room is sufficient; though we venture -to say not quite so delightful will be the kitchen atmosphere without -one. The kitchen cabinet in steel costs from about $92 upward; in wood -$89 up. - -Devices on which to hang the pots and pans and house the knives in -frictionless positions are, too, omitted, because these things vary in -price with carpentering and the amount necessary to spend in room and -money. It is the only way to house utensils ... in the open air where -they are visible and where the arm can reach and where the back is not -unrelentingly and unnecessarily bent in the performance of the manifold -duties of kitchen usage. - -The ice-cream freezer is not included as this is not an essential, -unless you think it to be one. It is to be had in a two-quart measure -from about $4.90 upward, and the gallon is available at $7.50. - -In some instances we have put an article under two heads; trays, for -example. This is done to show you that the two articles in aluminum or -tin are equally useful and if the cheaper grade is desirable it is a -safe “buy.” - -The grapefruit knife may be a glaring omission--we hope it is. Yet as it -is not strictly necessary we have omitted it. If this little joy is -bought, the stainless steel is the best material in which to look for -it. It costs about 75 cents. And as soon as the purse is large enough -and the manufacturers have come to the point, stainless steel is the -best in which to buy nearly every bit of cutlery, as it requires little -attention and neither rusts nor stains. - -Here follow the lists: - -UTENSILS IN ALUMINUM - - Tea kettle, 3 qts. $6.15 - Quart measure 2.00 - Double boiler, 2 qts. 4.05 - Funnel .90 - Ladle 2.25 - Pie plate, shallow .53 - Pie plate, deep .62 - Sauce pans, 1 qt. } These 1.40 - Sauce pans, 2 qts.} have 2.00 - Sauce pans, 6 qts.} covers 3.75 - Kettle covers, extra - 1 qt. .25 - 2 qts. .44 - 6 qts. .62 - Pitcher 7.85 - Baking dish 1.30 - Measuring cup .60 - Dripping pan 2.95 - Frying pan 3.60 - Griddle 5.55 - Roaster 7.20 - Angel caker 1.85 - Bread pans 1.15 - Cake pans 1.60 - 2 Muffiners, 6 cups 1.65 - Steamer--fits kettle 3.15 - Trays $2.55, 3.20 - Jelly cake pan 1.20 - Jelly mold 2.90 - Waffle mold 6.65 - Strainer 1.20 - Dish drainer 4.00 - -UTENSILS IN ENAMEL - - 2nd - Grade - Double boiler $2.20 $2.20 - Colander 1.30 1.05 - Funnel .50 .40 - Ladle .45 .35 - Pie plates .55 .40 - Measure 1.00 .80 - Uncovered sauce pans .55 .50 - .75 .60 - 1.35 1.00 - Basting spoons .30 .28 - Tea kettle 3.00 2.55 - Mixing bowls .95 - 1.20 - Tea pot 1.75 1.60 - Dipper .85 - Oval dish pan 2.40 1.85 - Soap dish .55 .45 - Sink drainer .75 - -UTENSILS IN GLASS - - Three kitchen glasses $ .10 - Baking dish (oval) .55 - Baking dish (deep) 1.50 - Lemon squeezer with holes .25 - Measuring glass .15 - Spice jars - Casseroles (according to taste as to size and depth) - range in price from 2¹⁄₂ qts. at 3.00 - to ¹⁄₂ qt. at 1.25 - Individuals at .75 - Pie dishes, shallow .90 - Bread pans 1.75 - Layer cake dish, 9¹⁄₈″ .90 - Custard cups, 4 oz. .25 - Fruit jars, 1 qt. 1.20 - Fruit jars, 1 pt. 1.05 - Glass butter crock, 1 qt. .45 - Glass butter crock, 2 qts. .70 - Glass butter crock, 4 qts. 1.00 - -EARTHENWARE - - Tea pot (medium size) $1.50 - Butter crock .50 - Small mixing bowls (two) .60 - Large bowl 4.50 - Casseroles (individual) .50 - Custard cups, per doz. 1.70 - -JAPANNED WARE - - Bread box $3.00 - Cake box 4.00 - Dust pan .63 - Flour bin (10 lbs.) 7.00 - Boxes: - Tea 1.25 - Coffee 1.25 - 3 Sugar 1.50 - Trays (2) .75 - Salt box 1.75 - -TIN WARE - - Flour sifter $ .56 - Grater .30 - Flour scoop .30 - Biscuit cutter .25 - Apple corer .18 - Nutmeg grater .15 - Pastry sheet (10″×17″) .70 - Steamer, fits any kettle 4.25 - -IRON WARE - - Garbage pail (galvanized) $1.00 - Poker (coal stove) .20 - Lifter (coal stove) .10 - Ash can (coal) 5.75 - -WOODENWARE - - Mop handle and mop $ .80 - Broom 1.70 - Chopping Board .75 - Meat board 1.25 - Bread board .75 - Rolling pin .35 - Pair of butter pats .35-.50 - Spoon .15 up - Onion chopping board (an extra board not - so called in the shops) .25 - Towel rack .60 - Salt box 1.25 - Step chair 5.75 up - Table, all wood (3′) 10.00 up - Knife board 1.00 up - -CUTLERY - - Scissors $2.25 - Silver nickel - 3 knives at per doz. 4.00 - 3 forks at per doz. 4.00 - 3 spoons at per doz. 4.00 - Set of kitchen cutlery including - One 2″ paring knife - “ 3″ splitting knife - “ household knife and fork (fine point) - “ French bladed knife for general work - “ 6″ blade for tough vegetables - “ spatula for pastry - “ large spatula for lifting cakes, candy, etc. - Two carving knives - 8″ blade, stiff - 9″ flexible slicer $5.00 - Measuring spoons .38 - -HARDWARE - - Ice pick $ .20 up - Meat skewers (set) .35 - Metal mesh pot cleaner .20 - Nut cracker .75 up - Can opener .10 up - Cork screw .45 - -BRUSHES - - Bottle $ .15 - Dust 2.63 - Pastry .70 - Refrigerator .25 - Scrubbing .65 - Silver 3.63 - Sink .15 - Vegetable .12 - Stove 2.75 - -WIREWARE - - Egg beater $ .25 - Broiler (coal, oil, wood stove) $2.50 - Deep fat basket 1.60 - Potato masher .25 - Purée sieve .85 up - -FABRICS AND PAPER - - Cheese cloth, per yd. $ .38 - 6 dish towels at .90 - 6 dusters at .50 - 3 floor cloths at .40 - 2 oven cloths at .15-.25 - Roller towels 1.25 - Roller towel rack 1.38 - 6 glass towels at 1.25 - -MACHINERY - -(When possible electric. Prices here not for electric devices) - - Bread mixer $4.50 - Cake mixer 4.50 - Meat, nut grinder 4.50 - Egg beater .40 - Electric fireless, 2 units - Electric mixing units--Price on inquiry at electric - appliance stores. - Motors--Price on inquiry at electric appliance - stores. - -GENERAL - - Pail (12 qts.) $2.38 - Scales (with scoop) 7.75 - Scrap basket (metal) 2.75 - Large needles .35 - Labels (per box) .15 - Cork (per box) .15 - Clock $2.50 up to 9.00 - Paper-- - Shelves (roll) .85 - Drawer (roll) .85 - Wax (roll) .50 - Napkins (per 1,000) $3.00 up - -A SET OF UTENSILS IN ALUMINUM SUITABLE FOR FAMILY OF FIVE - - Tea kettle $6.50 - Double boiler 4.05 - Straight sauce pan 4.05 - Straight sauce pan 2.35 - Sauce pan and cover 1.40 - Preserving kettle and cover 2.35 - Strainer 1.20 - Steamer section 1.80 - Coffee pot 4.15 - Fry pan 3.60 - Pudding pan .80 - Pudding pan 1.30 - Bread pan 1.15 - Tubed cake pan 1.85 - 2 jelly cake pans (each) 1.20 - Corn cake pan 1.65 - Roaster 7.20 - 2 pie pans (each) .62 - Measuring cup .60 - Mountain cake pan .85 - 3 boxes “Wear-Ever” cleanser 1.05 - -Here follows what a first-class aluminum manufactory believes to be a -complete set of aluminum for the home. This shows another’s ideal of -essentials. - - Tea kettle $7.05 - Double boiler 4.05 - Sauce pan and cover 1.40 - Straight sauce pan 2.00 - Straight sauce pan 2.35 - Sauce pan and cover 1.88 - Preserving kettle, cover 3.62 - Strainer 1.20 - Steamer section 1.80 - Coffee pot 4.15 - Tea pot 5.85 - Fry pan 3.60 - Griddle 5.55 - Waffle mold 3.65 - Pudding pan .80 - Pudding pan 1.30 - Bread pan 1.15 - Tubed cake pan 1.85 - Mountain cake pan .85 - 2 jelly cake pans (each) 1.20 - Corn cake pan 1.65 - Gem pan 1.60 - Roaster 7.20 - 2 pie pans (each) .62 - Measuring cup .60 - Tray 1.65 - Water pitcher 6.00 - Jelly mold 2.90 - -See chapter XL for suggestions as to weights and measures. - - -CHINA - -China for the kitchen can be had at varying prices depending largely on -the part of the country where you live--from ten cents upward if there -is a dime shop around. Yet there are inexpensive sets to be had from -time to time at from $20 upward--and downward. - -It isn’t always necessary to buy at the beginning a whole set of china -for the kitchen. Six of each thing ought to be plenty for a time, -counting breakage, which is perennial. - -Platters for the ice box in enamel are excellent, but if you have extra -plates for kitchen use they might (subject to easier breakage) be -utilized. - - -THE COOK BOOK - -Last but not by any means least is the cook book. For what availeth it -if you have utensils by the score if you know not how to fill them and -manage foods in them? - -There are many books on the market of fame and repute, but we have yet -to see one for the beginner that outdoes the _Home Science Cook Book_, -by Anna Barrows and Mary B. Lincoln. Both these women have cooked and -lectured and taught the science of cookery, and, what is more, they know -its practise. In this book are to be found simple, brief, successful, -economical recipes and methods of serving which in their very simplicity -knock terror out of the culinary life for the matrimonial initiate. The -writer of this article has had eulogies heaped upon her by various -brides and even experienced housekeepers for the knowledge given them of -this book. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -CANNING AND PRESERVING - - -To get the best results in canning and preserving fruits and vegetables -(disregarding, of course, the necessity of good recipes, for this is not -a cooking history in any sense of the word) you must use the best set of -utensils. - -It has now been proven that the process of packing fruits and vegetables -into containers, and sterilizing them after packing, is a better method -than the old way of cooking in an open kettle, transferring hot to the -jar, and sealing without further sterilization. Therefore, you must know -what utensils to use for the process (that is, the final application of -heat to the sterilized product) as well as for the packing. - -There are canners made for the express purpose of doing this work and -they must be chosen for the amount of work necessary to be done. The -small, hot-water canner is the least expensive for home use and is good -for fruits and tomatoes. These two are canned in this safely at the -boiling point, and are often better than products processed at higher -temperature in other canners. If you have not got a water-seal canner or -a cast-iron, steam-pressure canner, or a small, portable hot-water -canner (water bath canner), you can use a wash boiler or bucket or an -aluminum or enamel combination roaster-canner, or an enamel or aluminum -boiler, if you place the bottles of fruit during the processing on a -false bottom and put on a tight cover. - -The false bottom, of course, is best made of strips of wood and keeps -the glass jars from contact with the metal container, which is -dangerously near the flame. This, of course, is to prevent breakage. You -can use wire netting and galvanized trays, which must be raised 1″ to 2″ -above the vessel floor to permit circulation of water underneath the -jars. - -A very simple steam-canner is on the market now, made of copper covered -with nickel. - - -THE PROCESSES OF CANNING - -The processes of canning are well known--the cleansing of fruits and -containers, the scalding or blanching, cold dipping, packing, -processing, air releasing and sealing. For these processes the following -articles are used: Colander; steamer for blanching; preserving kettle -when preserving; ladle; measuring cup; funnel; canner or aluminum or -enamel roaster-canner; strainer; dipper; silver knife; shallow trays; -pans; vegetable brushes for cleaning; sieve; squares of cheese cloth -also for blanching; wire basket; teaspoon; spatula (a most convenient -pliable blade to use like a paddle to let air out of the jars before -sealing); scales; and saccharometer if accurate work is necessary in -preserving. Wooden spoons and saucepans are necessary if the product to -be packed is to be cooked. Also the indispensable handle with which to -lift the jar from the hot processing utensil. - -In using the aluminum roaster and canner with rack, fill half the lower -pan with hot water. Place the rack in position, and set the jars on the -rack. Place the caps on the jars lightly--do not screw them down tight. -Place the cover on the canner, being sure that the ventilator is closed -tight in order to confine all the steam. - -Only one burner is necessary in case a gas, gasoline or oil stove is -used. After the water begins to boil, the flame may be turned down -one-third to one-half--just keep the water boiling nicely for the proper -length of time as per schedule. - -When the time necessary for sterilization has elapsed, remove the cover -from the canner, and the jars can be taken out without difficulty. - -Then come the mechanical parers, hullers for strawberries, stones for -cherries, corers and slicers, all valuable when the products to be -preserved or canned are in sufficient quantity to warrant their -purchase. Of course, a good steel knife must always be in the kitchen, -and a thermometer makes work less haphazard, for the kitchen without a -thermometer is like a motor car without a speedometer. - - -PRESERVING AND CANNING JARS - -Probably of all the pernickety parts of preserving and canning -operations, the jar question is the most jarring (pardon the pun, but it -truly must have had its genesis here, and one can’t refrain from putting -a joke back on its native heath!). - -We will entirely disregard the tin container because it is rarely, if -ever, used in the home. In the use of glass jars the same attributes of -construction, efficiency, utility and economy must be considered. There -are numerous brands and variations of these brands on the market. -Sometimes, in a canning or preserving operation, strange to say, the -contents of five jars will turn out well, and the sixth will be a -failure. This is, of course, due to the human or inhuman equation. Here -are some of the types: - -1. Glass jars with metal screw tops lined with porcelain, made more -air-tight by a rubber ring. These tops can be used again and again. - -2. Glass jars with glass tops fastened by a wire clamp, plus the rubber -ring. The tops are usable again and again. - -3. Glass jars with flat metal tops held on temporarily by a metal clamp -until firmly sealed and then taken off. These look neat and ship-shape, -but the top must be punctured before its removal and therefore new caps -must be bought each time. - -4. Glass jars with flat metal cap over the rubber ring and a bracelet -ring with thread and overlapping top edge which, when screwed over, -holds the top securely. These tops can be used indefinitely. - -5. Glass jar with hermetic seal with lacquered metal top; around the -inner edge of the top is a narrow lining of a composition which, when -heated, softens and sticks to glass, and while the adhering is going on -a wire clamp holds it together and is removed after it is sealed. It is -self-sealing but you are unable to remove cover if for any reason during -the processing it has to be removed. - -The government has this to say about the types mentioned above: - -“If the old-fashioned screw-top jar is used (No. 1), good caps are -essential for safety. After having been used the edge of this cap -becomes flared and the porcelain lining frequently is loosened from the -top. This lid then not only is difficult to sterilize but may fail to -give an air-tight seal. If such jars are on hand and must be used, it -will be better to use them for the canning of fruits, preserves, and -other products which are easily processed and to secure jars of the -lightning-seal type for vegetables which are more difficult to -preserve.” - -In preserving it is always well to put a three-ply hot towel underneath -the jar when pouring hot material into the jar to insure against -breakage--_especially_ when the table has a glass or porcelain-like top. - - -SEALING TESTS - -If, after twenty-four hours, the seal or hermetic jars can be lifted by -their lids without falling from grace or from anything else, the seal is -pretty sure to keep the contents in good shape. - -Screw-top jars can be tested by inverting in order to discover leakage. -All jars should be tested and reprocessed if jars leak. - -Sad to say, foods in the best seal containers are often ravaged by the -culinary Bolsheviki which are bacteria forming in the most airless jars. -Unless all the bacteria are killed in processing, the tight seal is no -indication of salvation. - -To make safety surer, the laws of cleanliness must be observed to a -scrupulous degree. The table scoured and covered with oil cloth, to -prevent dirt; refuse cans near at hand to prevent any accumulations of -bacteria or decay; containers and tops boiled at least fifteen minutes -before using, and used as soon after as is possible, and then inverted -either in water or on an exquisitely clean surface until used. Rubber -rings for sealing jars must be cleaned immediately before using by -dropping, for one minute, into a boiling solution of soda and water (one -quart of water to one teaspoonful of soda) and removing quickly from -fire to prevent rubber deterioration. Buy only the very best rubber -rings on the market or else your crop may fail. New rings must be bought -for every canning and preserving process. - -Preserving is the result when whole fruits are cooked in syrup until the -syrup is clear and transparent. The object is to have the fruit -thoroughly permeated with the syrup. Preserving then is the process of -introducing syrup into the fruit. - -A United States Government authority says: “In order to prevent -shrinkage it is necessary to put fruit at first into this syrup and -increase its density slowly enough for diffusion to take place and for -the fruit to be permeated with the syrup. This is done by boiling the -fruit in syrup or by alternately cooking and allowing the product to -stand immersed in the syrup, the density of the syrup being increased by -evaporation or by substituting a heavier syrup for the lighter one after -each period of standing. If at any time the fruit shrivels or wrinkles -the syrup should be made less dense by the addition of water. If this -process be carried on gradually enough the fruit may be completely -saturated with sugar (as is the case with crystallized products) without -shrinking.” - - -DENSITY MEASURES - -When there is much preserving to do, and absolute accuracy is a saver of -money and time, a measure is used for determining the density of the -liquids. This is called a saccharometer. It is inexpensive, about the -same price as a thermometer, and consists of a long glass spindle like a -thermometer with a scale on it, but, instead of mercury, the bulb is -full of shot. When put in a vessel of water it rests at the bottom of -the vessel and registers zero. As the density increases the spindle -rises until the solution is saturated with sugar at the temperature -indicated, the reading being one hundred. This, however, is the Balling -scale. The Brix scale is more accurate and is more expensive. When using -a saccharometer use a 250 cubic centimeter glass cylinder, or a brass -saccharometer cup for the liquid. - -The preserving kettle and the rest of the list of tools can be used for -preserving. For cooling, enamel or aluminum trays are the best. Fruits -will discolor tin. When jars are full, as mentioned before, slip a -paddle, silver knife (silver doesn’t discolor fruit) or spatula through -the fruit next to the container when packed to remove air bubbles. - - -ALUMINUM UTENSILS - -Aluminum is light and enduring and contrary to allegations, cooking -acids in aluminum utensils does no harm whatever. In fact, if any -chemical action should take place, it does in the aluminum, and not in -the food. Chemists use it to cook acids in sometimes which is a proof of -the hardness of it in cooking fruit acids. - -If compounds were formed with aluminum, they are entirely harmless and -have no more effect than any of the organic salts. Salts solutions can -be cooked in aluminum, but don’t store a concentrated brine as pickling -mixtures in aluminum, or the aluminum may become pitted. - -To clean aluminum never use a strong alkali. Steel wool is the best -cleanser on the market at present. If when a utensil is washed any -slight stains or discoloration on the inside are immediately removed -with some steel wool and a mild soap, it will be kept in a bright and -shiny condition all the time. - -Oxalic acid is often recommended as one means of removing the -discoloration from aluminum, as it unites so readily with the iron or -mineral deposit which sometimes forms on the aluminum from the action of -hard water. This, however, we do not generally recommend as it is not a -safe plan to have it around. - - -ENAMEL WARE - -Enamel ware has a steel basis coated with porcelain. Probably no cooking -utensil has so long and classic an inheritance, for enamel on metal, as -jewelry, comes to us from the ancients, but it is not until modern times -that this process has been used for cookery. - -The porcelain or enamel is so spread, hardened and annealed or tempered -that it is about as elastic as the steel and therefore does not break or -crack under high temperatures. But the cheaper qualities are not -reliable; consequently buy the best. There is no chance of appendicitis -in using enamel ware for never has any intestinal disturbance been found -to have originated from chipping enamel (as has been said by enamel’s -enemies). - -So have no fear about using good quality enamel or aluminum or any other -of the best quality utensils sold to you by reputable manufacturers. You -are not only safe but fortunate when you can afford the best variety of -the best species. - -The enamel merchants say that their ware is decorative and therefore -lends charm to the kitchen because it can be bought in blue, green, -white, gray, maroon, etc., and we add, too, that aluminum is decorative -and it adds a silver-like touch to a well put-together kitchen. - -Enamel is cleaned like a china plate, with plain water and good soap; -whereas burn adheres more tightly to an enamel dish than an aluminum -dish, it is easily removed and the upkeep simple and swift, adding much -comfort to the housewife. - -In the purchase of any utensil, see that it is smooth, seamless, -crackless, air-bubbleless, and light in weight. - - -ELECTRIC CANNING AND PRESERVING - -When it comes to canning and preserving, the electrically equipped -kitchen is splendidly prepared to handle this matter with the greatest -ease and facility. Where there is a large electric range, it is -unnecessary to have any additional canning machinery, for the -sterilizing of the jars can be done right in the oven of the range. The -jars may or may not be immersed in a water-bath, just as it suits the -cook, without the bath is certainly easier and quicker, for the jars, -when cold-packed in the usual way, are merely set on a rack in the oven. -In this case, however, care must be observed not to keep them there the -full length of time prescribed in the water-bath method, lest the rubber -rings be scorched and afterwards develop defects. - -Failing a large electric range, the next best thing is the electric -fireless cooker. Into this, a few jars may be placed at a time, kept at -“high heat” long enough for the contents to reach the boiling point, -when the automatic time-clock attachment will then throw the cooker on -the “low” for the sterilization period. This method of canning is -particularly desirable for suburban households where the kitchen garden -is only of medium size; in that case the “crops” usually are produced in -just about the quantity to make this the normal way of canning. With -both of these electrical methods, it will be noticed that there is no -huge, cumbersome and heavy boiler to be handled, a great labor-saving -feature. - -In the electric kitchen, jams and marmalades are made in open kettles on -top of the stove, or for that matter, can be cooked on the much smaller -table appliances. The even, dependable temperature furnished by electric -heat is appreciated in these long, slow-cooking processes, where with -other methods, there is danger of burning unless ceaseless watch is -maintained. - -In some of the new stoves, you can set the containers right in the oven -(see Gas Ranges Chapter VII also Electric Ranges Chapter VI and Oil -Stoves Chapter VIII). This is a great saving of effort to the woman -without a maid, as in this way the canning and preserving processes can -be much simplified, if attention is given to cutting out extra utensils -and processes. - -For a household where marmalade, jelly and fruit-juice making is carried -on on a large scale, an electric fruit-juice extractor adds greatly to -the rapidity with which the work can be done. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -CASSEROLES OR THE REVOLUTION CULINARY - - -“Since my daughter came back from driving an ambulance in France and -from living in the various towns, she has not only brought back an -international atmosphere with her but she is quite a Kitchen Red. She -has revolutionized our whole culinary system.” - -“You strike terror to my soul. What can you mean?” I said with -amusement. - -“Well, since she has returned she is keen for cutting down unnecessary -effort and unnecessary processes and she thinks that the French have -solved the simplifying of cookery by the use of the casserole or -casserole system as I like to call it!” - -It is quite true that these fads are overdone, generally. But this is no -fad, as it’s been popular for æons, and if it had not been, why should -you not give it a trial? Because a thing can be used intemperately is no -reason why it should not be attempted. We drink water, yet we don’t -choke or drown ourselves very often. - -In these servant famine days where people either have none, one or a -very depleted staff of them, processes must be cut down, handling of -utensils must be decreased. Therefore, cooking in dishes that can be -used on the table, and coming directly from the stove, cuts the use of -one set of dishes, of washing the extra dishes, and as these utensils -are of pottery or glass the ease with which they can be washed cuts this -process in half. - -These casserole dishes are made in glazed pottery, white on the inside -and you can buy them in pretty nearly every color, as far as the outside -is concerned. Because of the heat-conducting attributes of pottery long -and slow cooking is the result of their usage. This fact is, of course, -their greatest asset, because slow cooking is necessary to bring out the -best flavors and render food more digestible. - -Casserole cookery--after all with the French it means really a kind of -dish. Adapted to our use as mentioned before, it is a system by which -cooking is done (slowly in the casserole) in utensils usable on the -table. Strictly speaking, casserole cookery is cooking done in the -casserole. The French use the casserole for made-over dishes and have -given the world a fund of dishes and ideas which have saved much money -and besides given much pleasure. This, of course, is a culinary as well -as an economic feat. And probably one of the best uses of the casserole -is the fact that tough cuts of meat and cheaper grades of vegetables -which are just as nutritious as the expensive are rendered delicious and -appetizing by this slow casserole cooking. - -The appearance of these dishes is enough to stimulate the jaded palate. -They come, too, with cases made in the different metals: copper, brass, -iron and silver. The dish as it is taken from the stove is slipped into -one of these open-work cases and gives quite a finish to the table. -These holders, be it remembered, are not necessary, but for that reason -they are alluring. - -But, people are prone to think that casserole cookery means living on -stews and cheap cuts all the time. But this is entirely wrong, as you -can bake, roast, boil and braise in these dishes. Excellent cake and -bread, soup and fruits can be cooked and all very deliciously. - -Scalloped dishes and marmites and things in ramekins are very good, too. -These are casserole cookery, too, only those dishes are for the most -part “individuals,” and these individual dishes are often made in the -more delicate pottery wares. Naturally, you do not have to use the -family size always. - -They are so made that they do not break if you use ordinary common sense -with them. When they are new, they should be set in very cold water for -a few hours, let the cook apply gradual heat, never sudden heat, and -remember that she must not put them on or in the stove without something -in them, and that when she uses them on top of the stove she must put -asbestos or metal trays under them to insulate them from too direct a -heat. - -Common or uncommon sense has to be used with all cooking utensils to -lengthen their lives. But here are some of the good points in casserole -cookery:--Less liquid need be added when using them as the food in long -cooking cooks its own juices; left-over foods become delicious in them; -freshly cooked foods become most appetizing; the tight covers keep in -all aroma and flavor (if the cover doesn’t fit tight enough a little -flour paste around the top of the casserole will seal it completely); -there is no burn to remove when washing these dishes and food cannot -adhere obstinately to cause a loss of time and patience; anything that -is to be removed is very evident and rubbing it off the smooth sides is -very rapidly accomplished. And they look so well after they are cleaned -that the cook is well repaid. - -In buying casserole dishes, you should be sure that they are smooth on -the inside and outside with no little blisters or cracks. The best -casseroles are not expensive and it is very encouraging to-day to get -anything with epicurean attributes at proletarian prices. - -Women should try things as business men try things when they are -cutting down expenses, and operations. And it doesn’t matter how wealthy -a firm is either when cost reduction can be made. Isn’t it queer that -our wealthy women never think of cutting costs in their kitchens? Yet -the wealthy firm is always trying to shave costs. - -After women realize that slow cookery is healthiest and is most -economical, why do they persist in being too conservative to buy new -things? There seems to be no reason except that they may unconsciously -feel that were they to begin on slow cookery, they would adhere to it so -rapidly that rapid cookery would fade away. It may be recalled that some -housekeepers insist upon cooking even the demi-tasse in paper bags! - -But to save the rapid cookery processes, the glass utensil has been born -and is waxing popular. Rapidity is its chief attribute. By this rapidity -in cooking there is a saving of fuel, and as the utensils are taken -directly from the stove, as are the casseroles, and used on the tables, -there is the same saving of service time. These glass utensils bring out -the flavors in all kinds of foods; they do not absorb odors or greases; -they are very easy to keep clean; there is never any burn to remove and -one can always see inside the utensil to find out how the food is -faring! - -On first thought you may fear breakage. But they don’t break. They are -strongly guaranteed against breakage in the oven. They are annealed so -perfectly that they can stand intense and sudden heat and not break. -Chauffeurs from France came back with great tales of safety glass which -is used on motors. This glass rarely breaks. Even if hit by shrapnel it -simply cracks and crazes. This fact will give confidence in what the -scientific manufacturers of glass are doing to-day. - -This cooking glass is also made in engraved patterns which make it -suitable for the most exacting table use. - -But why is it that cooking can be done so much more rapidly in the glass -ware? - -Because the glass utensil utilizes by the nature of glass composition -every bit of heat in the oven and the metal utensil does not. This is -proved by putting a metal and a glass pot in the oven equally full of -water and the glass pot will boil very soon while the ... you can guess -the rest. - -Of course, this glass is only usable in the oven. It is really miracle -stuff because even boiling water poured into one of the utensils won’t -break it. - -Can everything be cooked in this ware? - -A pretty good range: light omelets, dried fruit, cake, bread, meat and -rechaufférs. The glass casserole is very much in vogue at present -because the glass ware is adaptable to slow cooking, too. - -It’s amazing, isn’t it, to think what can be done with glass and china -fire-proof as they have become! Yet it isn’t when you think of crossing -the ocean in sixteen hours. - -But what is amazing is that some women are so slow to investigate and -are willing to live in their unexplored mediæval culinary ruts, while in -every other line they seem to be so up and coming. But women that do -their own work are far more forward looking. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -FURNISHING YOUR KITCHEN - - -Furnishing the kitchen sounds simple enough. But it is not. Everything -put into the kitchen must have not only beauty and uniformity, but also -utility, durability, tool shop convenience, and the maximum hygienic -attributes. In one word, the furnishings must have absolute -utensibility. - -In the other rooms (save the bathroom) you can humorously tell your -decorator to do it in early Pullman or seriously in Louis Quinze--and -all will be well. Your furniture in these rooms must be passably -durable, consistent, and beautiful, but it need not be unstainable, -washable, non-absorbent, rigid, non-corrosive, etc., etc. Equipping a -kitchen is like equipping a medical laboratory--skill must be employed. - - -THE TABLE - -Chief among the furnishings of the kitchen are the table and its -relatives. They have to be rigid, enduring, and must be the correct size -for the job and the correct kind for the work they are meant to do. - -The table has been the storm center of discussion for years. The problem -is this:--to find a table top that is non-absorbent, easily cleaned (not -holding stains like an artist’s palette), not brittle, not cracking -under changes of temperature or when utensils are dropped upon it. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Duparquet, Huot & Moneuse_ - -SHOWING THE MEAT-CHOPPING TABLE, RANGE, TABLE ARRANGEMENT, RUBBER MATS, -SINK, AND POT SHELF ARRANGEMENT] - -For if you are doing your own work, you do not want to be scraping and -cleaning all day, and if you have servitors you will want them for more -productive work. - -This is a big order. Teachers, scientific experts, and manufacturers of -laboratory conveniences (they are never called kitchen conveniences in -these circles! Would this nomenclature help the servant problem?) have -massed their findings and the results of the world-wide demand for a -practical kitchen table top are the following: - -_Enamel Tops._ These (and their confrères vitrolite, etc.) are excellent -if you know that the manufacturer is good. They do not crack or craze -(fall into multitudinous vein-like cracks) and break with ordinary -usage. The enamel is baked over steel or iron and should be at least -three coats thick. - -_Glass Tops._ Not for general utility, but well adapted for the pastry -table since with this top no special pastry board is needed. Glass tops -are really very beautiful and have every qualification but -unbreakableness. Some new patents are less brittle than old makes. - -_Marble Tops._ Excellent for the pastry table, and if one can afford -them, fine for most things. There is only the remotest chance that they -may break and only when they are less than 2″ thick. - -_White Metal Tops._ Excellent, non-corrosive, flat coverings. They are -expensive but do not need any nursing to keep them in order. - -_Zinc Tops._ Very much used, but these tops buckle and puff and are very -much affected by acids and alkalis. - -_Wooden Tops._ Far better than zinc for the householder who cannot -afford the other tops. The wood can be treated with non-staining -varnish, or a varnish that can stand heat without being annihilated, -and you will have a fine table. If this is not possible, the ordinary -wooden table, fresh from the shop, if covered with linoleum or oil -cloth, is very useful and durable, especially since the linoleum can be -changed inexpensively and often. There may be a metal binder around the -wooden table top if desired. - -_Composition Tops._ These need a guarantee as they are often of glass or -some mixture undefined. - -_Tin Tops._ These are not used any more, as far as we know. - - -SPECIAL TABLES - -The ordinary table length is from 3′ to 7′, depending upon the size of -the kitchen. There are usually from one to three tables in use,--more -often two. The ordinary heights are from 32″ to 28″. Get the height that -fits your workers. Be sure to find this out if possible; otherwise you -will have to make a later arrangement. - -Maple is a satisfactory wood for strong tables; ash, and pine for the -cheaper kind of top. - -The marble top table is the royal pastry table, which, of course, though -not a luxury, is an extra table. Fancy a seven foot marble slab 2¹⁄₂″ -thick! Isn’t it like an Alma Tadema conception! The pastry table usually -has a rack of some sort beneath it, either slatted or solid. This rack -may be half shelf and half electric plate warmer. In smaller homes the -pastry table of 3′ length is the most convenient with a somewhat thinner -marble top or glass top. - -The top of the cook’s table is sometimes divided into two parts, one -part made of marble or glass for pastry work and the other part of -polished wood for ordinary pursuits. This effects the saving of a table -if the cooks do not squabble or there is but one cook and little room! - -The cook’s table is placed opposite the range and has a 7′ pot rack -attached. - -The legs of most of these high-grade tables are tipped with metal to -keep them unspotted from the washings of the floor. The trimmings, too, -are of the same metal, formerly called German silver. - -It would not be a bad idea to have a metallic tip of some sort put on -the legs of the less expensive tables, to keep them from wearing and to -maintain a rigidity well beloved in tables. For there is no happiness in -table tipping outside of the spiritual seance! - - -KITCHEN CABINETS - -A kitchen cabinet (see also Chapter XXVII, Kitchen Cabinets) is a thing -of duty and joy forever. It is the first cousin to the table and really -is but the table extended and expanded into drawers and shelves and -closets. It signifies the demand of the modern housewife for a shipshape -tool chest with all the materials ready to her hand so that there may be -no reaching, stretching, or relay races around the kitchen in the -preparation of the recurring daily meals. - -For the most part these cabinets are moveable. That is, they are not -built into the walls of the room. At present, however, architects are -planning for them as stationary and essential parts of the kitchen -equipment. - - -MATERIALS - -Steel and wood are the materials out of which the cabinet is made. The -steel ones are better in many ways than the wooden types because they -are easier to clean and are more protected against vermin. However, the -wooden cabinets which are built with rounded corners are a close second -to the steel cabinet, since these corners cannot become a receptacle -for food waste and are practically vermin proof. Wooden cabinets are -finished in a hard enamel paint and can be washed with impunity. - -Some kitchen cabinets are equipped with a rolling door which folds -upwards; others have swinging doors. The swinging door, although it -extends into the room a few inches, has the convenience of being able to -hold extra little racks for extra little things, such as small bottles, -market lists, and the like. - -Never fill your cabinet too full of things, as they are prone to fall -down and jangle the nerves of the worker, thus really defeating the -purpose for which the cabinet is built, which is maximum convenience. - -Besides the table top, which is used as a molding board, there are -places for the flour bin, sugar container, bread, cake, pots, pans, -rolling pin, cutlery, jars, dishes, marketing slips, and even the -favorite cook book. - -The kitchen cabinet is a boon to the small housekeeper and is becoming -so appreciated for its concentration of work and saving of steps that -even the owners of large homes insist on installing it. That is why -architects are including the kitchen cabinet in their plans. It means a -saving of 75% of toil and thus becomes a factor in making servants -willing to stay with you. - -Where there are no servants employed you, Mrs. Wife, get the benefit! - -There are many smaller cabinets on the market. The sink closet, which -contains all the sink soap, swabs and brushes, a real convenience -indeed, as is the long and narrow broom closet, for brooms and cleaning -materials. Until you have your brooms properly garaged your nerves never -will be entirely rested. - -Dealers and manufacturers are ready, in fact, to make any sort of a -cabinet for you if they are not in stock. Don’t be bashful, get what -you need for your kitchen--but never get more than you can use. - -Small neat white cabinets are made, to fit corners as well as flat -spaces, and give the kitchen the efficient, clean look of the -laboratory. - - -SHELVING UNITS - -Steel shelving and built-in kitchen cabinets are growing more and more -popular. Stationary shelves, built once and for all, can be installed, -or you can begin with a few units and as you require more they can be -bolted on to what you have, just like sectional bookcases. - -These shelves are covered with three coats of enamel baked on steel and -very durable, having the same qualities as the good table:--rigidity, -non-absorption, and ease in cleaning. - -They are the parallel of the steel filing case in the office--and that -is another sign that the kitchen is becoming as systematic as the -business sanctum. Just as soon as the home approximates the efficiency -and standardization of the office, just so soon will the servant problem -cease to be. But we are not discussing the millennium in this chapter. - -The shelves can be made with or without doors. Of course doors are a -little help in the fight against dust, yet even they are not infallible -enemies of this household nuisance. - -Very often under the shelves the plate warmer and the refrigerator are -placed. Their close proximity shows that the refrigerator is insulated -against the heat and the plate warmer is insulated against the cold. -This is really an object lesson in the possible self-identification of -good apparatus. - -This arrangement will work well both in the pantry and in the kitchen. - -Wooden shelves are less expensive than the steel ones, but require -careful attention, frequent cleaning, and new coverings at intervals. - -Plate glass shelves are being used of late. - - -PLATE WARMER - -In speaking about the above luxurious pastry and cook’s tables, we -touched on the matter of plate warmers. - -In small homes plate warming is accomplished by ovens, oven tops, or -warming plates arranged above the ovens or stove. In larger homes, -however, where guests are many and often and plates and dishes -multitudinous, the electric plate warmer has come to do the work. - -It may be under a table, as you have seen above or it may be a separate -entity. - -The doors of the plate warmer are generally of the sliding variety and -are of a special make of iron, trimmed with steel or white metal. The -interior of the warmer is perfectly insulated with asbestos and other -materials. It does not warm the kitchen. This is proved by the -possibility of its being placed next to a refrigerator without any bad -results to the ice. - -There is a little ruby pilot light which tells you if the electricity is -on or off, thus obviating the chance of unnecessary heat getting out -when you wish to find out whether the warmer is functioning or not. - -The electric warmer usually stands a little higher than a table, but -does not alter the size of the table when built underneath it. - - -CHAIRS AND STOOLS - -Since the kitchen is in no way a lounge, the chair in the kitchen is -really only another tool to assist in the work or possibly to permit a -few moments of relaxation. Of course, it is quite obvious that in some -kitchens which are a combination sitting room, living room and dining -room, the chair and even the couch are real comfort factors. However, -this type of room is not being considered here. - -In the kind of kitchen we are furnishing the ordinary modified Windsor -chair is as good a model as any we know, and can and should be finished -to match the rest of the kitchen. - -The stool is most convenient and should be about 24″ in height, because -a worker can work efficiently while sitting on this. - -The chair step-ladder is convenient in rooms in which you have had to -build high shelves for sufficient storage room, lack of space being the -only excuse for such unreachable shelves. - -There is, too, the ladder-stool, which serves the same purpose as this -chair step-ladder combination. - -The little wooden step is a convenience if perchance your kitchen maid -is not an Amazon and needs a few more inches added to her, or if your -cook happens, too, not to be of heroic mold. - -In small kitchens the settle-table is a convenience. For when a bench is -needed it can be used as a bench, and presto! when a table is needed, it -is quickly changed into a table--the two things taking but the space of -one. - - -MATS - -Stone, composition, tile, and even wood floors are often very trying to -the feet and back of your kitchen denizen. A strip or two of linoleum or -cork is a great relief as it adds to the unrelenting floor a little -elasticity and resiliency which takes the strain off the feet and makes -for comfort and ease. These materials are the best, for they are -washable and non-absorbent, and they add rather than detract from the -beauty of the surroundings. If the strips are not usable, mats can be -bought or made for the space to be filled. - - -MATCHING UP - -It is quite as possible to have uniformity in your kitchen as well as in -your other rooms. Even if the kitchen must be fixed up after the -architect has done his worst, you can at least have the same color -scheme throughout. - -There are on the market to-day kitchen furnishings to suit every pocket, -so there is really little excuse for a kitchen to look heterogeneous and -messy. Furnishing a kitchen is a most tempting problem, especially with -not too full a purse. The trouble is mostly that people who know nothing -about a kitchen always furnish it, because it is considered easy. It -isn’t easy. Even after furnishings are bought if they are not placed -well they are of as little value as if they did not exist. - -In getting household apparatus the first and great demand is: Know your -manufacturer. And the second is as important: Buy the best you can -afford after the most careful thought, and be very sure where it is -going to be placed when you get it. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -KITCHEN COSMETICS - - -Like women, kitchens must be made up continuously to be kept up. Like -women, the fairer and even blonder they are the more attractive they -seem to be; but unlike women, they must never be applied with powder (as -a beautifier) or with oils, varnishes and paints which for any reason -disintegrate into powder. - -Every Domiologist (the author’s coinage for home scientist) likes a -light, clean, glistening kitchen. Oils, paints and varnishes and their -relatives, enamels, shellacs and lacquers, do the trick. - -This article is not going to teach you to be a painter, but ought to -give you the salient facts of kitchen “make up,” which every Domiologist -should have in her mental, if not actual, filing case. - -Furthermore, in the maidless or maided house the basic supply of -to-be-cleaned-things must be as nearly self-supporting as possible. -Hence a smoothly varnished wood-work and un-peeling painted wall or -ceiling will go a long way to simplifying the care of the kitchen, yea -the whole house. - -Briefly, paint, according to Wood, is any liquid or semi-liquid -substance applied to any metallic, wooden or other surface, to protect -it from corrosion or decay or to give color or gloss or all of these -qualities to it. Note the stress on the protective quality. - -According to Heckel: Paint is a mixture of opaque or semi-opaque -substances (pigments) with liquids, capable of application to surface -by means of a brush or a painting machine, or by dipping and forming an -adherent coating thereon. - -House paints are made of pigments, drying oils (volatile or thinners), -driers or “Japans” and varnishes. Pigments are divided into white bases -(like oxide of zinc, the most important), inert reinforcing pigments, -natural earth colors, chemical colors, pigment lakes, etc. - -Varnish enhances the beauty of surfaces, protects them from injury, -increases the luster or hardness of other coatings, excludes moisture -and gases, vapors and other atmospheric agencies of decomposition or -decay. - - -PREVENTIVES OF DISEASE - -Paint and varnishes in the main have been thought to be beautifiers -only, but in reality they are much more than this, for they are very -complete means for the maintenance of sanitary conditions in the kitchen -and are made for application on metals, cement, concrete, plaster, wood, -etc. Therefore, there is nothing in the kitchen that cannot be -re-surfaced if necessary. - -Cracks and holes spell vermin and germ traps, which make efficient -distribution centers for disease. Here is where paints and varnishes and -the adjuncts not only fill the cracks, but fill the bill before the -physician has time to send his. - -The best blanket dictum to remember is that: Cleanliness is next to -hole-iness. Fill up the holes, cracks, splits, roughnesses and -unevennesses. Render all surfaces non-porous by application of liquid -paint fillers. But before all else, scrape and pumice and wash surfaces -with good old soap and water. Benzine is very often not sufficiently -efficient in preparing for paint applications. Evenness, cleanliness, -non-porousness, these three, and, to be Irish, the greatest of these is -elbow grease--the best of all kitchen cosmetics applied in preparation -and in brushwork. - - -CHOOSE THE MANUFACTURER FIRST - -“What criterion have we,” asks the Domiologist, “in the choice of -paints?” - -The answer is, “Choose the manufacturer, then choose the paint.” - -No household has a laboratory, and the widest advertised paint brands -have stood the test. Consequently, a can opener, the paint, and an -all-seeing eye to keep abreast of the advertisements are the -requirements for the pocket laboratory. But, the standard for any paint -is the overworked word “service.” If the paint you and your friends have -used does not wear, get another make. But by all means, do not use these -things blindly any more than you would use face powder without knowing -the brand. Buy the best. In no other household commodity is this advice -more important. - -Sometimes the best paints and varnishes deteriorate in storage or -transit, by being kept in too cold a room, and may be explosive if -treated with too high a temperature. - - -PAINT RULES - -In buying paint it will do no harm to bear in mind: - - 1. That one gallon of paint should be distributable over an area (in - two coats) of 300 square feet. - - 2. A good paint should produce a surface that is neither too hard nor - too soft. Surfaces that are too hard are prone to chipping and - cracking or splitting. Sometimes they remain sticky if they are too - soft, or chalk or powder or flow. - - 3. The average life of a good application of good paint is four years. - It ought to last fifteen years, but to-day in our apartments we are - glad if it lasts one month. Three years is the minimum, but a simple - pigment paint frequently plays out in three years. - - 4. That paint must be durable in color and should last at least four - years under normal conditions. Good floor paints and varnishes can - stand dragging furniture, walking, hot utensils, steam, water, even - alcohol and greases. - - 5. That good paints should leave surfaces suitable for repainting, - which, being interpreted, means that the old paint should be still - unbroken, making paste or liquid fillers practically unnecessary. - -Paste fillers with or without color are used to fill deep cracks, etc., -not, however, caused by broken paint surfaces, but by faulty -construction, warping, blows in plaster, wear, and such injuries. - -The common ills which are met with in paint life are: - - 1. Peeling, cracking or powdering, due to imperfect attachment, - probably on greasy, damp or over artificially heated surfaces from - which the moisture is driven up through the paint. - - 2. Blistering, due to underlying vaporized moisture. An excess of - volatile oil prevents this. It often occurs on incompletely dried - lumber, and often light or some chemical agency is the cause. - - 3. Alligatoring, incipient cracks due to heavy coats of paint applied - to unseasoned wood especially if the paint is drier, tougher or more - elastic than the under coats. - - 4. Wear. This is the only legitimate ill, if it takes place after the - allotted period of its life. - -The common epidemics in varnish life are bloom (opalescence), -blistering, spotting, cracking, sweating, powdering, livering, crawling -(refusal to spread), flasking, deadening (loss of luster), pitting, -silking (looks like enameled silk), seedy or specky, wrinkling, grain -showing, crumbling, all due to imperfect preparation of surfaces and the -presence of moisture, greases, poor varnishes, poor application of good -varnishes, different brands of varnishes put together, increase or -decrease of temperature in drying or storage or transportation, etc. - -There are hundreds of kinds of varnishes divided into: oil varnishes, -spirit varnishes, japans, enamels and specialties. - -In house finishing, oil varnishes, enamels, painter’s Japans and -sometimes spirit varnishes (shellac and dammar varnishes). - -Lacquers are highly transparent varnishes used on metals to produce a -lustrous film. - -Japans (decorative) are dark varnishes applied to metals and wood. - -Japans (painter’s), are varnishes added to paints for luster and drying. - - -EMPLOY AN EXPERT - -So it can readily be seen that the painting and varnishing of the -kitchen should be, if nothing else, given over to experts. The painter -should understand these requirements. “The priming coat,” says Heckel, -“being the one on which the adhesion of the entire paint film depends, -should be most carefully considered. It should be sufficiently liquid to -penetrate every pore and irregularity of the surface, carrying with it -particles of the pigment; but this fluidity must not be obtained at the -cost of the future strength of the dried film. For the priming coat it -is customary to add a quantity of oil and some turpentine or benzine -or, in the case of cypress, yellow pine and resinous woods in general, -some form of benzol. It is easy to overdo both. Only enough of the -volatile thinner should be used to avoid a high gloss, to which -subsequent coats will not readily adhere. Hard, unabsorbent woods -require a thicker priming coat than spongy woods, such as poplar, soft -pine, etc. Resinous woods, like yellow pine, again require special -treatment--a preliminary varnishing of knots and resinous spots with -shellac, and subsequent priming with a fluid priming coat containing a -benzol product. - -“The second coat, which in many instances is also (improperly) the -finishing coat, should be tempered accordingly. If there are to be three -coats (as there should be), the paint should be lightly reduced with -turpentine or benzine, so as to promote amalgamation with the priming -coat, and to reduce the surface gloss. If it is to be the finishing -coat, prepared paint of the average consistency can be used without -reduction, but a very little turpentine is sometimes desirable to assist -penetration and adhesion. - -“The third or finishing coat should usually be employed as it comes from -the can. In the case of all coats, thorough, hard brushing is essential, -and a round brush is always preferable to a flat brush. The failure of -paint is frequently due to insufficient ‘elbow grease’ with the brush. - -“Every coat of paint should be completely dry throughout before the next -coat is applied; but it is a mistake to allow a priming coat to -‘weather’ and become weakened before painting is continued. - -“Too much drier or Japan, or cheap rosin Japans, are at the bottom of -many paint failures. The manufacturer of a scientifically prepared paint -will introduce the proper kind and quantity of driers into his formula, -and none should be added in use.” - -A fit condition of surface is obtained by: - -(1) By delaying the application of the priming coat until the wood is -thoroughly seasoned, unless seasoning has been properly attended to in -the lumber; secondly, by seeing that the plaster on the inside of the -building is completely dry before painting is begun on the outside. A -new house should have been heated some weeks before it is painted. In an -old house, leaking spouts, etc., should be repaired and the adjacent -wood allowed to dry thoroughly before repainting. Thirdly, by avoiding -the application of paint in moist weather or when the atmospheric -moisture is high. Fourthly, by selecting a dry, mild season, as late -spring or early fall, rather than a cold or hot season, as winter or -mid-summer, for the work. Fifthly, by seeing that sappy or resinous -spots in new lumber are properly treated before painting. Sixthly, by -due care on old work that all loose paint and dust are removed by -scraping, sand-papering, wire-brushing, dusting or, if necessary, -burning, before new paint is applied. - -As a rule, it should always be remembered that two thin coats thoroughly -brushed out are better in most cases than one thick coat, and that -repainting should never be delayed until the under coats begin to loosen -seriously. - -Only when conditions are favorable should the householder be his own -painter. In any case he should study carefully the directions on the -can, and unless they are found to apply to his particular job, should -consult either the manufacturer or a practical painter for fuller -advice. - -Ceilings and walls of the kitchen are improved by the application of -flat washes, calcimines, etc., of which there are many on the market. -These surfaces are easily kept clean and sanitary and for this reason -have been used instead of papers in the kitchen. All discolorations and -dirt, grease and dust are removable by soap and water. The best paints -are not poisonous and are a great factor in home sanitation. - -The kitchen floor is a more difficult problem, as the wear and tear is -so much greater than suffered by the walls. However, paint and varnish -manufacturers have the problem well in hand and there are paints and -stains on the market and varnishes, too, which withstand wear and tear, -heat, grease, steam, gases and every other normal nuisance. Of course, -this holds good only if they are applied correctly. Floor varnishes -should dry in forty-eight hours. Dressings for revivifying linoleums are -on the market, but beware of poor ones. - -Don’t be afraid to investigate! This is another mandate to the -Domiologist! - -And bear in mind that floor varnishes and stains should be able to stand -dragging furniture and foot wear, should be tough, withstand shock or -abrasion, and be unaffected by normal contact with moisture. Good -surfaces will give enduring service and will permit the scrubbing and -washing of floors almost indefinitely. New coats can be added as the -wear and tear demands. In addition to paints there are varnishes and -stains combined which give effect of natural stain, and these applied to -floors are more than satisfactory. These combinations, too, are useful -on linoleums that have aged. These materials are made, it must be -understood, to stand wear. Do not ever think of applying a wall stain or -paint to the floor, as the floor compositions are made to withstand -different use. Before using a stain, etc., on linoleum it is well to get -advice from a linoleum firm or a topnotch paint firm. - - -ENAMELS OR PIGMENT VARNISHES - -Probably nothing gives the Domiologist more delight than the effect a -fine white enamel gives the objects over which it is laid. Here is a way -to keep the kitchen a real blonde! - -There are many of these enamels on the market which give the refreshing -aspect to the kitchen. Many of them have the appearance of porcelain, -and can be kept clean with little trouble. They can be bought in the -glossy finish or the flat or dull or mat finish. All the woodwork of the -kitchen can be treated with enamels if a charming kitchen is wanted. - -The high cost of construction to-day demands the protecting powers of -paints. The beauty theory of paint still holds good, but the protective -power is predominant and most important. - -The use of a good floor oil has been proven by Dr. Wallace Maunheimer to -reduce the quantity of dust in a room from 80% to 100%. Flying dust is -the aeroplane of disease. Oils, paint and varnish the anti-aircraft -guns! - -And, finally, read the directions on the can, get the admirable books of -directions mailed gratis by the service departments of manufacturers of -paint, and _buy the best_. - -And do not fail to realize that the kitchen with a good complexion -augurs well for the complexion of every one in the house. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -THE GREAT AMERICAN DISH - - -To be one hundred per cent American, each one of us must eat at least -two and a quarter quarts of ice-cream annually. This is the national -American dish, despite Boston’s claim for the baked bean and the South’s -for beaten biscuits. - -Rich and poor, the be-butlered and the maidless make their own -ice-cream. The more remote from civilization, the more each individual -housekeeper makes her own ice-cream. - -It is no longer a luxury; it is now recognized as a food. The Government -classifies it, and it is experimented with at most of the State -agricultural colleges and State experimental stations. Its making has -become an industry standardized by the Government and certain rules must -be adhered to by every manufacturer. - -The introduction of ice-cream as an industry not only stimulated -purchasers of ice-cream, but has stimulated machinery builders. To-day -the making of large plants and small household freezers comprises a -large industry. - -For these mechanisms many problems of refrigeration, ice, brine, rock -salt and packing arise. Some of these problems are important to the -housekeeper as a maker of ice-cream, some as a buyer, and some not at -all. - - -KINDS OF ICE-CREAM - -In this sketch we will, of course, only touch upon those parts of this -problem that are of interest to the housekeeper--doing her own work or -with assistance. - -Ice creams are classified under various heads and sub-heads. Nearly -every one interested classifies them differently. For the sake of -convenience, we will give here one classification. - - I. Plain uncooked ice-cream - - Known as Philadelphia ice-cream, which consists of sugar, flavoring - cream with or without condensed milk. - - 1. Plain with flavoring. - - 2. Fruit with flavoring. - - 3. Nut with flavoring. - - 4. Bisque with marshmallow, macaroon cake, wafers and other bread - products well dried out. - - II. Cooked - - French ice-cream--sometimes called Neapolitan (though Neapolitan is - really the many-colored layer ice cream only) made of cream, sugar, - eggs and flavoring. - - 1. Parfaits - - Highly flavored fruits, nuts, spices (Nesserold pudding, Roman and - English plum puddings). - - 2. Custards - - Flavoring, cornstarch, vanilla. - - III. Sherberts and Ices - - Water and milk, sugar, white of egg, fruit juices, etc. - - 1. Ices (granites frozen by oscillation and frappés--semi-frozen like - mush. - - 2. Water Sherberts--Ices and egg, sometimes called soufflé. - - 3. Punches--with liquor (passing out). - - 4. Milk Sherbets. - - 5. Lacto--skimmed milk bases. - - IV. Mousse - - Rich cream sweetened and whipped, frozen in molds without oscillating - or turning the freezer. - - V. Fruit layers - - Stabilizers and fillers. - - Stabilizers--such as gelatine, ice-cream powders and gum tragacanth, - are used in commercial ice-creams to give the product body, but - manufacturers should, according to law, admit this addition if - necessary. - - Housekeepers often use gelatine; it is quite wholesome and not - dangerous in any way. - - -FREEZING - -Apart from the recipes, with which this chapter shall not deal, the most -important part about ice-cream is the freezing of the mixture. Its -dangers are many. - -First of all, freezing incorporates air into the mixture and therefore -increases its bulk. - -Ice-cream can be frozen too slowly or too fast, and experience here is -the best teacher. - -If frozen too rapidly, says the Omaha State Experiment Station, the -ice-cream doesn’t expand very much (this is more important to the -commercial maker of ice-cream). Without the air incorporated, it is -soggy and heavy. It will also be grainy and will fall apart. - -If frozen too slowly, it is buttery, greasy, non-expansive and fat will -rise. - -If frozen too long, it will be churned creamy, it loses expansion, it is -greasy, soggy and heavy. - -These are the reasons why cream is not a velvety, smooth, ungrained -stand-without-hitching quality. - -Here are some other defects and their causes: - -First, the cream must be clean and creamy, combined with flavoring -material which blends with the cream to a full delicious flavor. - -There may be defects in the flavor, due to the cream used, such as sour, -old, bitter or metallic cream flavor. - -It may be due to the filler or stabilizer, such as a starch, gum or -gelatine. - -Defects may also be due to other ingredients. It may be too sweet, not -sweet enough, coarse flavor due to flavor material, stale fruit, rancid -nuts, moldy nuts. - -The cream must be firmly frozen to be smooth and velvety. If it is not, -these conditions may prevail: - - Icy: Due to improper packing. - - Coarse: Too thin cream or packing while too soft. - - Sticky: Due to fillers, such as gelatine or a sweetened condensed - milk. - - Buttery: Use of cream partially churned before freezing, or to cream - too cold when put into freezer, or because freezer was operated at too - high speed. - - -THE CURE - -First, buy a good freezer, never less than a gallon, because you can -always freeze a little in it and always be ready for a crowd. - -There are various types of freezers on the market. (1) those that you -turn by hand, (2) by motor, (3) ones that aren’t turned at all, (4) ones -that are oscillated only and in which, at home, two flavors can be -frozen at once. In this type it takes longer to freeze cream, but as the -arm only works back and forth it is not so tiring. The can in the tub is -partitioned in two segments and the paddles and dasher only turn half -way. - -The freezer that isn’t turned at all needs no lyric from me. It tells -its own story in making good ice-cream of a smooth mousse-like -consistency, but real ice-cream. It is rapid and restful. - -The various motorized freezers are good for large families and the small -motors attachable to small freezers geared for motors are joys. - -There are some kitchen units that are clumsy, some that are convenient -which turn the freezer, polish the silver, sharpen the knives, in fact -do everything but shine one’s boots. (See Chapter XXV). - -In buying these units don’t be “pulled in” by salesmen talk. Watch for -compactness, durability, cleanability, lack of danger in use, -replaceable parts, and ease of manipulation. In the use of motors the -attachment must be so made that the connections will not be catching in -gearing, etc. Above four quarts, hand work is heavy and we would advise -turning the freezer by a motor. - -In the non-turning freezer, the chamber for the ice and salt is -separated from the can so that the freezing mixture cannot enter the -ice-cream. - -It is cheaper to buy ice-cream, the home-made kind tastes far better. -When you buy ice-cream, it is wise to watch the containers in which it -comes, and to know where it is made. The Government is very particular, -but slight slips in the ice-cream organizations can breed the most -dangerous of bacilli. At home you can watch everything; above all, -cleanliness of ingredients. - - -FREEZING MIXTURE - -The greatest of all the science of ice-cream making is the mixture of -ice and salt. Most cook books say three parts ice to one of salt for -home use. For hardening after it is frozen eight parts of ice to one of -salt, and the mixture must cover the can entirely, top and sides. - -Of course, the ratio of ice to salt regulates the freezing. The United -States Government Bulletins are full of these ratios if you want to look -up this matter. - -On this subject Bowen of the United States Department of Agriculture in -Bulletin 98 says: - -“When two solid bodies, as salt and ice, mix to form a layer, a certain -amount of heat becomes latent, called the latent heat of solution. Since -this latent heat is taken from the mixture itself the temperature falls -correspondingly. The temperature obtained by a salt and ice mixture -depends on relative proportions of the mixture and to less extent on the -salt at which the heat is supplied from the outside, the size of the ice -lump and salt particles and the amount and density of the resulting -brine. Hence it is impracticable to give other than approximate -temperatures with fixed ratios of salt and ice.” - -It usually takes thirty minutes at least to freeze a gallon of -ice-cream. - - -FREEZERS - -Electric freezers come from about $75 up and can be had for alternate -(A. C.) or direct (D. C.) current. - -The advantage of the freezer with its own directly-connected motor, -rather than a motor which has to be connected, is readily apparent to -those who have suffered the annoyance of belting, pulleys, and -countershafts. Being self-contained, such an outfit may be readily -located at will; to operate merely requires securing it in place and -connecting the wires. You have, therefore, no belts with attendant -annoyance and expense, no countershaft with its necessity for continued -attention and causing vibration, nor is there dirt and oil being thrown -here and there. In addition to the mechanical advantages secured by the -motor-driven ice-cream freezer unit, there are had by its use -cleanliness and increased space. - -Every freezer should be so made that the action of scrapers and dasher -is continuous. Some freezers have a device in which the scrapers are -hung on the dasher so their lower ends rest on the bottom of the can, -and the friction between ends of scrapers and can bottom when in motion -moves the scrapers against the side of the can, and holds them there -positively and continuously. - - -TUBS - -The tubs should be strong and if possible bound with welded wire hoops -or metal bands. If the tub is metal this is unnecessary. Tubs are made -of pine, white cedar, etc. The zinc tub is a good substitute for the -wooden tub, but the wooden one is good if made water tight and smooth -and easy to clean. All parts of the freezer should be non-rustable, -especially the can. - -The best cans are made with drawn-steel bottoms. They do not leak, do -not fall out, as may happen with those having the tin plate or cast -bottoms. - -The best bodies of the can are made of heavy tin plate. The top of can -is strongly wired and turned over, while the bottom of can is made to -fit over and under the drawn steel bottom. - -All gears must be completely covered so that neither ice nor salt can -get in the cogs nor the fingers be caught and injured. Some freezers -have gearing enclosed in a box-like fixture. - -The inside parts touching the cream should be of harmless metal, -generally of pure block tin. All outside parts should be smoothly -finished, galvanized usually. - -The ice space between the can and the tub must be so arranged as to use -the least amount of ice and salt, and freeze as quickly as possible. - -The cross bars which connect the handles and cover and clamp on the -opposite side are often a source of agony. These must be simple in -operation. Some freezers have a clamp, some a key. This is a matter of -choice and manufacturer. Some cross bars are hinged and others are -dove-tailed. - -Freezers are supplied with fly wheel instead of cranks to turn. The fly -wheel costs a little more but it is far more convenient, as it requires -less turning. - -Some freezers have a glass peep hole in the cover of can so one can see -the progress of the freezing and obviate loss of time and cold by -opening the can. - -Scrapers are made of rolled steel bars ground straight and fine to fit -can and to insure clean scraping of the cream, so that all parts of the -mixture are being frozen continuously. - -The dashers and beater are usually of malleable iron heavily coated with -pure block tin. Generally (and better so) there is one scraper for the -bottom of the can and two metal scrapers for side. - - -BUYING FREEZERS - -The same principals hold in buying freezers as any other culinary -utensil. They must be seamless, smooth, easily cleaned, non-dangerous, -non-corrosive, non-chipping, and be made by a reputable manufacturer. - -Besides the freezer must have ease in running, quick freezing, economy, -convenience, and give practical results. - -Freezers are equipped with best standard motors. The motors should be so -placed as to eliminate danger of motors burning out or being injured by -careless handling of the ice and salt. - -In ordering a motor outfit include the following--your voltage, Direct -or Alternating Current; if Alternating what Cycle and Phase. (See -Chapter I). - -Buy a freezer with thought. All machinery pays better when the best is -bought and close attention has been given to the purchase. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -THE KITCHEN ROTARY CLUB - - -Are you a culinary rotarian? Or do you still “beat it” by hand? - -The Kitchen Rotary Club is becoming a real factor in culinary economics! -By means of rotary motion the mixer, the beater, the combination of -these two have come to relieve the back, arm and hand and where -electrically driven cause no waste of time! - - -ELECTRIC ROTARIES - -To begin with, these fairy-like machines are somewhat like and unlike -patent medicine advertisements--alike because they claim to do many -things and unlike because they can and do fulfill their claims! - -For example, they beat eggs, mix bread dough, mayonnaise; stir cake -batter, frostings, dressings; whip cream; mash potatoes; grind nuts, -spices and meat; drive (some) ice-cream freezers; turn the food chopper; -have grinding and buffing wheels for sharpening cutlery and polishing -silver. In fact, they are companions not idly to be cast aside. - - -HOUSEWIVES BAD MIXERS - -This will especially appeal to the housewife mayonnaisly--because many a -good mixture has been wasted by inefficient mixings by the mixer being -called away suddenly, etc. Then, too, many a mayonnaise is never born -at all because the housewife or the cook “hasn’t the time to-day.” Where -the mixer is electrically driven, time is added unto the menage and -while the mayonnaise is forming the cook is _per_forming elsewhere. - -Egg beating, cream whipping, batter beating, all these take time. Now -with the electric machine the home can revel in soufflés and cake. It -can buy coffee in the bean and grind it with no effort--here is a real -epicurean saving. For coffee in the bean and grinding it at home saves -the volatile essences of the coffee which gives to perfect coffee the -added aroma and full flavor. These machines grind cutlery and not -“exceedingly slow” and so can add finesse to a slice of meat! - -As with the mayonnaise mixing, these utilitarian investments take the -guess work out of cake, meringues, batters. Improper mixing is an -immorality not easily cleansed from kitchens. Yet these instruments with -perfection of mechanical agitation do the mixing with assurance and -become real vice chasers. Imagine! (all things being right)--you can be -sure that success will come to your cakes, sauces, breads, rolls, pies, -cookies, doughnuts, cheese dishes, puddings, sauces--Remember that lumpy -cream sauce? Well no more of that! Your sauces and your mashed -vegetables will be lumpless! - -Removing doubt, removes nerve strain in a kitchen--and maybe the cook -without nerve strain will be affable and a comforting dweller in your -halls! - - -THE NEW MACHINES - -Among the best machines is one so made as to effectively chop food and -meat, grind coffee, slice vegetables and fruit, etc., etc.; has with its -attachments a hot-water and ice container to be used as a “bath,” if -stirring must needs be done in a cold or hot medium; soup strainer and -colander connection; ice-cream freezer attachment; a meat slicer (a -great comfort and saving of meat). This motor has three speeds. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Troy Metal Products Co._ - -A MEMBER OF THE KITCHEN ROTARY CLUB AT WORK ON CAKE-MIXING.] - -You may have never felt the need of these types of workers, but then you -never knew the use of the radiogram until you used it! - -Don’t you hate to strain and _persuade_ large quantities? - -The strain is gone from straining large quantities now. This is gently -done by the coaxing electric strainer and colander device. - -One “mixer” is also accompanied by a cabinet if desired. It is finished -in white and is made especially for this device and houses comfortably -all its attachments. It has an enameled metal top and does not add much -to the total cost of machine. - -Another power unit advertises two speeds and has all the above -attachments. It comes with a metal table with a shelf (open), on which -all the work can be done with comfort. - - -SMALLER CRAFT - -If you don’t want a machine that can do so much, there is one on the -market electrically driven, which beats eggs, mixes mayonnaise, angel -cake and light batter, mashes potatoes and fluffs them if mixed with -butter and cream, mixes custard, soufflés, etc. - -It has a small ¹⁄₂ H. P. motor of fine construction designed for 110 -voltage. It is necessary in this case to state whether your current is -direct or alternating (DC or AC). This motor can run on either direct or -alternating if the speed control device is not to be used. But the speed -control in this instrument is its crowning glory. That is, you can mix -rapidly or slowly, a performance the older type of mixers small or large -could not do. It was racing speed or nothing. All cooks know that some -things take rapid beating or stirring, some other things slower -agitation. The cook or housewife can in the course of her experience -with these new comers into our kitchens find new uses continually for -them. - -For example, this small motor has a speed regulator which ranges from -4800 to 8000 revolutions per minute. This motor takes from 25 watts -(extra load) to 60 watts (heavy load). - -It is well to have a detachable motor as in this one, for when cleaning -is necessary the motor remains--due to its hydrophobiac (fear of water) -elements--unharmed! - -The beater itself here is the ancient and honorable Dover type, so you -see it is not so foreign to your ken. - - -TIME AND THE MIXER - -1000 revolutions is all you can effect in a minute, no matter how “Red” -you may be. This machine turns 2000 revolutions, outrushing the Russians -and all Central Europe! - - -SOME EVOLUTIONS - -In from one to five and ten minutes can eggs, frostings, and mayonnaise -be accomplished! - -Full speed for heavy mixtures, half speed for lighter, a gram of cream -can be had in less than five minutes. - -A gallon of oil in relation to a mayonnaise dressing took but ten -minutes to be used up. - -Now can _you_ beat it? Hasn’t this phrase lost its slangy significance? - -This little angel weighs but 2³⁄₄ pounds, and its lightness is one of -its charms. - - -REQUIREMENTS - -All these machines should be easily attached to wall or lighting sockets -or outlets. (Electric). - -They must be easily cleaned. - -The motor must be protected from you and food stuffs and you must be -protected from it. - -All attachments must attach easily. When easily is used it is meant to -the limit of ease. All parts must fit, so that the doing of a new -operation is not accompanied with dread. It must be a pleasure to depart -from coffee grinding to turning the ice-cream pail and polishing silver. - -Now, kitchening is no endurance test. The fatigue is eliminated. Your -days may not be so “stirring” but at the end of them you will feel like -the theatre and what not. - -The hand-turned cake and bread mixers are better than mixing by hand and -spoon--but if possible, the electrically driven mixers which come in -many styles and prices will give you more than comfort and will outlast -many a cook. - -The hand-turned stoners, buffers, grinders, etc., are very efficient but -not quite the joy an electrically driven unit may be in an electrically -conducted ménage. - -These machines are Utopian agitators! Agitating for food and helping the -Kitchen Workers of the World. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - -FLAWS OR FLOORS IN YOUR KITCHEN - - -The question of the kitchen flooring in the home is of course, a very -profound and serious subject. Those who build away from cities are hard -put to it to know exactly what there is on the market and those who live -in cities are confused by the variety of floorings and the attractive -attributes as their salesmen recite their eulogies. In order to help the -prospective buyer we have set down a few basic facts. - - -FLOOR REQUIREMENTS - -Of course, you realize that every kitchen flooring should, as nearly as -possible, be:-- - - Attractive, - Easy to keep clean, - Noiseless, - Odorless, - Vermin and dust proof, - Comfortable to feet and back, - Non-slippery whether dry or wet, - Durable (no upkeep but washing and polishing), - Fire proof or fire retardent, - Impervious to changes in temperature, - Laid over any kind of floor base, - Lightweight enough to be suitable to any structure, - Seamless or joined so as to be virtually seamless, - Non-warping, non-expansive or non-contracting. - -Before enumerating the kinds of floors that you will have laid before -you in this chapter, it would be well to realize that a floor will -sometimes keep a maid or lose her, and you will not know the “why.” But -the fact is that a floor can tire you if it be not a good kind for the -purpose and can reduce fatigue and make for general well being if it be -a good type. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Janes & Kirtland_ - -AN IDEAL KITCHEN WITH LINOTILE FLOOR (ARMSTRONG CORK CO.), BUILT-IN -STEEL KITCHEN CABINET UNITS (JANES & KIRTLAND), AND COOK’S TABLE, WITH -POT HANGER COMFORT] - -Here is a list of the most important kinds of flooring in use:-- - - Marble, - Wood and wood block, - Linoleum, Linotile, - Cork, - Composition and concrete, (laid in paste or blocks) - Tile, - Terrazzo. - -Marble can be dismissed as being too expensive, too beautiful and too -resisting to the feet. It is also too cold under foot. - -Wood is very popular because in the commoner varieties it is the -cheapest flooring. In whatever grade a wooden floor is used, it has the -disadvantage of needing attention. It always needs refinishing. The -better the floor the more attention it will need. It will splinter -eventually and show marks if things are dragged over it. Although the -scraping down and refinishing always make the floor look like new, the -wooden floor is better in any room in the house than the kitchen, -laundry or pantry. There are some housekeepers who wouldn’t have -anything else but the hard wood floors in their kitchens--oak, maple or -Georgia pine, etc. - - -LAYING THE FLOOR - -The wooden floor must be carefully laid or else the cracks become traps -for germs and dust. Of course, this applies to all flooring. And while -on the subject of laying floors, let me say that even though you order -the best kind of flooring in the world, if it is laid badly, you might -as well have bought the worst sort of material. It is imperative that -you have the manufacturer or the manufacturer’s delegated dealer lay -your floor. Don’t go to your village builder or carpet man. It won’t -pay; in fact, it will cost you dearly, as in such case the maker of -these products has developed a way to lay flooring which is inseparable -from the life of the flooring itself. - -Many a householder knows a good floor, but few know what to look for in -the laying of it. - - -THE LINOLEUM FAMILY - -Among the best known floorings for kitchen use is linoleum. It is so -well known and so popular that purchasers in their ignorance often -accept, unwittingly, substitutes and lay felt paper instead of the real -thing! - -If you decide to buy linoleum, go to the best maker or his dealer. -Follow their gospel _Buy the Best_. If you heed this you make an -investment. If you do not, you make an expenditure. - -So when you decide to buy linoleum first look on the wrong side of it, -and if it has burlap on the back and if it is very difficult to tear, it -is pretty definitely linoleum. It also carries the name of the maker. - -It is well for the prospective buyer to know something of the -manufacture of a popular article. It makes you appreciate and understand -how to take care of it better. - -Women should not buy unless they know exactly what they are buying. - -Linoleum is made of burlap, linseed oil and cork, as the main -ingredients. The oil is first boiled to thicken it. When it is cooled it -is poured down over suspended sheets or scrim and by coming in contact -with the oxygen of the air, becomes oxidized and solidified. Then these -oil-impregnated skins are ground up and mixed with gums to give the -fabric elasticity and it is then mixed with ground cork or cork flour, -the coloring matter, and the rosin, (to harden it). This mixture is fed -into a machine which distributes it evenly over the burlap. It later -passes through a series of finely adjusted rollers weighing about 27 -tons each and adjustable to space of ¹⁄₁₀₀₀ of an inch between rolls -which, of course, give any required thickness to the linoleum. This is -plain linoleum and it is many weeks in the making. - -The printed linoleum is made by passing the plain over print drums. - -The straight line or inlay is done by a still more involved process, but -the patterns never wear out as they are an integral part of the -linoleum, going through from back to front of the material. - -Highly paid designers are engaged in this work and many craftsmen of -great skill are employed for stencil work, etc. - -You don’t always realize the time, work, and expense of the ordinary -things that you see about you. - -When the linoleum is being laid, look out for these things. (They apply -pretty generally to the laying of any flooring of this kind.) If over -wood--the nails must be hammered in below the surface, the wood laid too -to avoid dampness and cracking. If over concrete--it must have dried a -month or two and be filled in with plaster of paris if it has any -cracks. It should be laid over felt in both cases to insure long life to -the linoleum and the comfortable resiliency to the foot and consequent -ease to the back. The felt acts as a cushion, makes the linoleum fit -better, and obviates later refitting and trimmings. See too, that the -workmen are careful to force the strips close together and cement -closely. These things if it is absolutely impossible to get the linoleum -people themselves to lay the floor. It would be wise then, to get their -booklet. - -It is easily kept in condition if you: - -Use only mild soaps, never caustic powder, with warm water. Rinse -immediately with clear water and dry immediately. Wash and dry about a -square yard at a time; do not flood the whole room at once. Strong soaps -will eat the pattern in the printed linoleum and wear the inlay. - -Use elbow grease! - -Use glass casters on heavy furniture as the linoleum will show marks. - -Store linoleum, when necessary, away from excessive heat and moisture. - -Waxing occasionally is good. But an oil mop does very well. - -The numberless designs and coloring to be had in this fabric add to its -value and pleasure, and the kitchen can be in lovely accord with the -decorations of the house. - -The ordinary dripping will not effect linoleum, nor the ordinary -moisture. It requires no extra mats as foot resters, is not a substitute -but a flooring, and in every way deserves its great popularity. - - -THE CORK FAMILY - -Another attractive, useful and popular flooring is what is called the -corks. It is made of clean cork shavings compressed in closed steel -molds about an inch thick for five hours under high pressure and high -temperature. All the moisture is thus driven out and it is pressed -together into a waterproof mass. No foreign substance is introduced to -bind it together as this is done by its own gums. Inferior cork tile is -mixed with foreign substances and this often makes it break down and -detracts from the resiliency and wearing power. After this process is -completed it is cut into the desired sizes. - -Cork tile comes in shades of brown and there is an excellent cork -compound tile that comes in many designs and colors. - -It is not absolutely fireproof but is what is called a fire retardent in -that it takes a flame of 1500 degrees F. one hour to burn a hole in a -tile 6″ × 6″ × ¹⁄₂″. - -The cork tile floor of the best make will last as long as the building. -It is of the loveliest coloring, delightful in tone, noiseless and -soothing to the feet and back, warm to the touch and altogether -psychologically comforting to the nerves. - -It requires but soap and water and elbow grease to keep it in condition -forever. It is never slippery, is non-absorbent of dust and moisture and -when laid correctly needs no effort nor money for its upkeep. This is -why the initial investment though larger than for some other flooring is -a wise one, as it is positively the ultimate expenditure. - -There is much inferior cork tile on the market and it is very hard to -tell it from the best quality. It looks attractive until it has been -used a little while, then it will begin to “pit” and “sap” (become dark, -and emit a pungent odor), due to inferior manufacture. - -Heavy tracking does not effect cork tile as it is so elastic that is -springs back into place. This is proven by the restaurants, banks, -libraries and hospitals that use it so generously. - -In laying this, the same general things should be observed as in the -case of linoleum. It is laid over felt, the base must be free from -moisture, cracks and nails. If the cork is put over nailable material, -small headless sunken brads are used. If not, it is pasted on the base. -All joints are pressed together by a special compressing machine, and -are sealed with a preparation virtually making the cork tile into one -large seamless covering under which no dust, moisture, germs or vermin -can collect. - -The velvety quiet of these floors imparts a tranquillity to the kitchen, -contagious to mistress and to maid. - -It is needless to say much for the tile as you know its beauties. It may -be cold to the feet, non-resistant and tiring to the back and slippery -when wet, but this is overcome by mats of matting, cork or linoleum. -Tile is made in every design and color to fit any desire or design. All -corners and joints at the base of walls can be curved. It makes a unit -of the whole room in design and intention as no other thing does. It can -be cleaned out with a small hose. Of course, poor tile cracks. - -Needless to say, it takes real skill to lay these floors as the under -bed of cement has to be very perfect to protect the tile upon it. -However, it looks royal, it wears, and is a favorite with great kitchen -builders. - - -COMPOSITIONS - -The floorings of composition, cements and mineral mixtures are -innumerable. Some are excellent, embodying nearly all the good points -enumerated in this latter. They are a little warmer than tile and not -quite so expensive. They have probably a little more foot comfort but -not much more. They are fire proof, do not weigh too much for a lightly -constructed house, and are kept clean with the usual elbow grease and -water. - -These floors for the most part are made in various colors and designs. - -In tile and composition the joint at the base of walls can be made -practically one with the wall in a curving connection. In the case of -linoleum and cork, this joint is either accomplished by a curving -connection or more generally by a highly compressed and sealed joint, -allowing for absolutely no trapping of foreign matter and rendering the -floor easily swept and washed. - -Many great institutions and some private homes have found these to be -practical, so if you observe the “Buy the Best from the Best” rule you -cannot go wrong. - - -LINOTILE - -A newer kind of floor is a cross between a cement and a linoleum. It -wears indefinitely and can be highly recommended, as handsome as it -comes in tile form, and silent, easily kept clean, resilient and all the -good points of cement as well as linoleum. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII - -FEDERALIZING YOUR KITCHEN - - -Fancy a carpenter with his tools all over the room! - -Fancy a painter with one color here and another color there! Do you -think we would have had a Michelangelo if he had been forced to get down -from the scaffold every minute for a tool or a bit of clay? And yet -women for the most part, women who need their energy for making the home -a fit place to live in, still persist in scattering their tools about -the kitchens and walk miles daily, because they have not mobilized their -tools. - -To what can be accredited the woman’s hatred of saving steps, even -though she complains of fatigue and extra work? What can account for the -woman’s dislike of having her things handy? Is it money? No, because she -often buys motors, “movie” tickets, dogs, jewels and garments in -quantities far more than she needs. It is perhaps due to a past vastness -of ignorance. But now when there are specialists descanting on the -glories of saving steps, time and money there is little excuse. In this -article one stumbling block will be removed and the kitchen can well -transform itself into a room where the most methodical man can work and -where any maid coming in for the first time will not have to use levers, -telescopes, periscopes and what not to prepare the first meal. For the -kitchen cabinet is the first plank in the platform of standardizing -domestic work even as it is being standardized in the factory. This is -the basic glory of the kitchen cabinet. Now, for the more important -details of its makeup. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Janes & Kirtland_ - -A STEEL UNIT KITCHEN CABINET FLANKED BY BROOM AND DUSTER CLOSETS. SEE -THE ELEVATION FROM THE FLOOR. THIS CAN BE BUILT-IN TOO] - -These cabinets group in one place the necessary tools and materials for -getting together the meals of the house. They hold the spices, flour, -sugar, bottles, pots and pans, sometimes linens, ice and gas or electric -stoves, packages of cereals, etc., and they are the table, the bread -board, the flour board, the flour bin and dish rack all in one. - -Here you can work where everything is within arm’s reach; you can sit at -your work and not fatigue yourself. In short, you have a work bench at -last and can feel as professional as the carpenter or the artist, and -you must, if the kitchen is ever going to be as important in the life -and best living of mankind as it deserves to be. - -Built of steel entirely in some cases, all wood in others, and a -combination of both in still others, they are comfortable and worth -while in the best makes. Of course in this product, as in all others, -one must go to the best manufacturers who know their business and take -an interest beyond the sale. - -When you buy a kitchen cabinet you must get the maximum comfort and -utility. Go about and see which one you think will save you the most -work. - -The all-steel cabinet, of course, is less responsibility to keep free of -vermin. The wood type is a little more care. - -If your cabinet is to be of wood, see to it that it is ant proof (the -castors as well), has all round corners, is varnished and finished -steamproof, has locks that lock, doors that easily open, whether one -leaf is shut or both, whether it is winter or summer, supplies a broad -enough table to sit down and work at comfortably, a table top impervious -to liquids, grease and heat, sanitary glass drawer pull, dovetail wood -joinings, easy rolling castors, everything easily withdrawn to clean, -and of non-warping, well-seasoned wood. The finish must be the best, -whether enameled, painted or varnished. - -In the cabinet of steel construction you must be sure that the enamel is -on to stay; that the doors, drawers and locks are of the best -construction, electrically welded. The doors, etc., must be rigid enough -not to emit hollow sounds every time they are closed. In the best type -the doors do not dent or wobble but are double, about ⁷⁄₁₆″ thick, -reinforced on the inside with heavy steel angles, making them rigidity -enthroned. The frames are rabbeted to receive doors and drawers, thus -giving no overhang but making a flush surface. The doors in the steel -cabinet are more comfortable to handle if they are hung on concealed -brass hinges, with bullet catches which enable the doors to open and -shut absolutely independent of each other. - -In both the steel and the wood cabinets the table tops are all of -different material. The best steel type in our opinion uses nickled -zinc; the best wood cabinets use porcelain, iron, aluminum, vitreous -steel, enamel, etc. Any of these tops are good and when in the standard -makes you can be very sure that they have been well tried and not found -wanting in any essential quality. - -In general, then, the cabinet is a receptacle for the most used things -in the kitchen; therefore, is so much used itself that it cannot be too -good and should be adapted to your special need. - -If you are building a house and want to have your kitchen a real -comfort, install a kitchen cabinet or go to the firm that, with its unit -system, can make up a kitchen cabinet combining most of the best things -you see in any. This is an expensive way but a miraculous joy. If you -want a cabinet to be installed before the house is built it is a saving -in wall tiling where the cabinet is placed, especially if the cabinet is -made of steel. - -There is one cabinet on the market that has an ice box in it, which when -installed with the back toward the porch wall makes it possible for the -ice to be put in from the porch and all packages delivered from the -porch through its parcel-service shelf opening on the porch! - -In this cabinet there is, too, room for a gas stove or electric plates, -so that with it you have a complete, compact kitchen. - -The unit systems in steel are most elastic, as they can be duplicated -over the broadest and the narrowest, longest and shortest kitchens. -Whole pantries can be equipped with them. Diet kitchens in the upper -floors of large residences can also be equipped with these units so that -any member of the family, nurse or valet, can prepare a little meal with -everything comfortably housed in the pantry cabinet. They are one of -those examples of household developments which are so rapidly coming to -the front to-day and mean so much in convenience. - -Each maker of kitchen cabinets has a specialty or two which he tells you -makes for superiority. Each one is right, so you must choose your -favorite and most appealing speciality and buy accordingly. - -Some, to obviate the little back bending, have a device by which the -whole shelf of the bottom of the cabinet pulls out when you open the -door and enables you to see what you want without strain, or time loss. -This we think a delightful device. Others have gravity locks and catches -which always fall in place; sanitary leg bases, high enough from the -floor to sweep under; a rolling open front, which makes it simple always -to keep the cabinet closed and away from cooking odors; white enamel -interior; roller bearing on table so that the table rolls in and out -with least possible rebellion or noise; and a drawer for kitchen linen, -which is a great comfort. - -Another advertises the possibility of its use with detached gas or -electric range, its silver drawer, bread board, parcel service, and ice -box and special flour bin. All the cabinets are proud of their flour -bins and sifters. And nearly all have special construction so that they -are filled and emptied with ease and dispatch. - -One fine cabinet has a revolving spice container which is very -convenient, of course. - -The unit system is proud of the adaptability to any need, including even -broom closets on the side of the cabinet, filling any wall space. These -are usually made of steel and provide a cheaper method of backing up one -side of the kitchen than by the use of tile or kitchen shelving. - -The steel unit systems also come in special “store” sizes and are not -much more expensive than the wood. - -The steel are either 6″ from the floor to allow for cleaning or are -stationary and are attached to the floor by curved constructed tile or -linoleum, which gives continuity and unity, thus reducing the swabbing -out of the floor to simplest terms. - -The kitchen cabinet that is put in when the house is built, be it of -wood or steel, is more convenient than any other closet, as no builder -has given sufficient thought to maximum utilities. We have seen -architects send their “handy man” to install closets who seemed to be -absolutely unlearned in the necessities of the problems. Therefore, -before and after building, the kitchen cabinet or the kitchen cabinet -unit system is by far the best policy to pursue. - - -THE ESSENTIALS OF THE CABINET - -The cabinet must be able to fulfill these conditions: It must be easily -moved if on castors, it must be easily taken apart, drawers must run -smoothly, racks to hold things must hold things, they must hold enough -things, too, to prevent relay kitchen races. - -The wood cabinets are excellent, the steel we think a degree more -self-protecting because they cannot absorb odors, or get vermin -investitures. However, the best grades of wood cabinets are so perfect -that we can endorse them ungrudgingly. - -The cabinet must have: Supply closets, china (nearly every case), -molding boards, work table, cutting board, linen receptacle, pot, pan -and lid holders, bread, cake, spice, sugar containers and flour and bin -shifter devices. - -All other departures are specialties and are more or less inviting -according to the buyer. - -There is a cabinet, remember, for any space as well as purse. Get the -best of the best dealer and make yourself sure that the one you are -getting is the least complicated and the easiest to keep clean. They -range in price from around $50 up to the thousands. But no matter what -they contain, or how thrilling they look, unless the cabinet itself is -the acme of fine workmanship, you will be in constant irritation over -warping parts, dust and uncleanable surfaces. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII - -WHEN THE POT HANGS HIGH - - -My text is “one kitchen tool hung up is worth two in a low -cupboard”--taken from The Kitchen Libel--Chapter 1, Verse 1. - -This may not look like a technical chapter--like one with a lot of -mechanical information--and it really isn’t--it intends to get behind -technicalities and be a radical (don’t fear the word) over-hauling of -women’s opinion on the disestablishment of old forms of kitchen usage by -very slight changes in kitchen arrangement. - -For years kitchens have been built with closets for kitchen pots built -in “below the belt” with pernickety little doors with cranky little -locks. For years these closets gave the kitchen denizen or housekeeper -herself all the rhythmic exercise necessary to the development of -backache and nerves and sense of touch. Into these closets you had to -feel for the pan you wanted and then often had the musical treat of -hearing them crash down behind something, and you must needs kneel in -prayerful posture to extract the necessary pot or pan. - -If there were ever a condition in the kitchen so uncongenial to the -Woman-Doing-Her-Own-Work, it’s this hidden pot and pan game. If the -carpenter has learned how to save his back, why not the housewife, who -not only does cooking but also a hundred other things. - -Avaunt ancient superstitions and affections about dark low-set closets -and come out in the open on high with your utensils and whether you have -a maid or not, some one’s back will be preserved, if not for higher for -more things! - - -THE ARGUMENT FOR HANGING - -I have written the above in the past tense--but it is really existent -to-day in the majority of homes. “Why,” I asked a splendid housekeeper, -“don’t you seal up those dark receptacles and hang up your utensils?” - -“Gracious,” said she, “if I hang them up they’d get all dusty and it -wouldn’t be sanitary. Ridiculous,” quoth she! - -“But, my dear friend, do you think those dark closets are dust-proof and -do you think darkness is a germ killer?” - -The truth is these closets, away from light, are almost ominous! - -“But,” continued my friend, “if I decided to hang my things up, where -could I do it in this tiny kitchen? It’s all right in modern kitchens, -but here it is impossible!” - -Here she touched a universal note--in fact, two notes--the old fashioned -kitchen, and no room. Two notes upon which the housekeeper plays -monotonous choruses to excuse modern advances. - -“My dear friend,” snapped I--“once upon a time I ran an experiment -station in a tenement kitchen--the kitchen was four feet wide by ten -feet long--in it were tubs, stove, glass closets under which were the -pot and pan receptacles. I was too busy to stoop every time I needed -anything so I had the carpenter nail on the wall over the tubs and over -the sink a piece of wood three inches wide (this will go in even the -tiniest kitchen) into which I screwed hooks, and there I hung every tool -I used. Later I had a shelf nailed above it and made my work a smooth -performance. I felt like a carpenter working at my bench with all my -tool ‘en plein air.’” And I went on to say, as I had a good opportunity, -there is no reason why your kitchen can’t be made like a tool chest. No -man would tolerate breaking his very strong back to get a pan, or his -nerve to pull out a drawer, which so often sticks, for a can opener! Not -he. - -Could you imagine a carpenter, a butcher, or any one else, who worked at -everything requiring sharp tools, or fine quality tools, jumbling them -all up together in a drawer that moves in and out, provoking an -earthquake rhythm among the tools, or a little closet in which -everything is banged to pieces and has to be groped for? - - -GOOD TOOLS, GOOD TREATMENT - -No!--No one could. Because no tools will last under such treatment and -good tools are worth keeping--and the very best are reduced to -nothingness if not kept well. It’s a case, pure and simple, of noblesse -oblige. - -There is a good housekeeping reason, too, for things to be hung up, and -this is: when things are in plain sight they become a constant curse to -the cook or to the beholder if they are not scrupulously clean. In the -kitchen of “suspended animation” you are pretty sure to have clean and -spotless pots and pans, to have knives whose edges are not nicked, and -to have egg beaters and mayonnaise mixers that are not so out of kilter -that you get nervous prostration in coming in contact with a scrambled -egg or Russian dressing. These are facts to grapple with. - -To prove it, just visit a man-manned restaurant or hotel kitchen some -time--and there you will see the brightest, cleanest looking copper, -aluminum, nickel, etc., etc., pots and pans hung up on racks near -operating centers--ready to be used. If this were anti-hygiene the -Board of Health would intervene. Anyhow, water is at hand in a kitchen -and dust is easily swabbed out! - -Of course, in the new kitchen, racks are built, and you have no choice, -so you accept the pleasanter condition without cavil. - -In this connection I can’t forbear to mention the apartment garbage can -which owns a hygienic lid which sits a foot above the floor and for -every useless egg shell to be thrown away the worker must needs bend -double to remove the lid, empty her plate, put on the lid and raise -herself up. Time and energy lost. This could easily be on a little stool -under a common kitchen table in which a round hole could be cut, or -alongside the garbage creating table and the stuff slid into it, if it -can be bought with a sliding lid. There is also a pail whose lid is -lifted by a pedal worked by the foot. - - -HANGING WITHIN REACH - -To be sure, this does not mean to hang up the kitchen table or the -stove, but it does mean to keep things, that are used hundreds of times -every day, within the reach of your hands without superfluous stooping -and bending. It means, too, that cleaning utensils, such as brooms and -dusters and rags, if hung in separate racks in or outside of a closet, -will live longer in good condition than if hurled into a corner of a -closet where they get smashed and have their one hundred per cent. -utility diminished. - -Where a culinary tool decreases in efficiency, the human element effort -is necessarily increased, and unnecessary fatigue ensues--then: sloppy -preparation of food and then, dyspepsia. - -Now, don’t you see the inevitable result of slipshod kitchen -arrangement? - -If, for any reason, you like closets for pots and pans, have glass -doors on them and have them no lower than thirty-two inches from the -floor. This way you don’t have to stoop, the light penetrates, and an -arrangement like this has only the opening and shutting of the door in -its disfavor and the fitting in of the utensils each time and their -possible denting. Even the finest utensils will dent with improper -provocation. Open shelves are very convenient, too, if you do not care -to hang things up. - -If you have a niche for each tool, the work becomes almost play. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX - -BRUSHING UP ON BRUSHES - - -Household work is drudgery unless it is put on as nice (I say “nice” -advisedly in its purest sense) a plane as any other craft. The best way -of doing this is to have tools that are adapted to the different kinds -of work--and furthermore, and quite as important, tools you are proud -of, proud enough to keep well and advantageously. - -The carpenter does not use one kind of tool for everything--he does not -use a chisel where a plane could be used not only to better the job but -for his own comfort or pleasure. The same thing can be said of the -painter, who would not use a whitewash brush for a varnish job. But the -housekeeper seems to think it part of her duty, somehow, to use a -one-for-all tool, and then wonder why her work is irksome and her job -ill done. It is very often difficult to get a maid to use the proper -brush, but you will find, if you do your own work, that you will -simplify it by using the right brush at the right time. The long handled -type for long distance work, the short for local jobs, soft ones for -delicate and so on. This careful work too will preserve the finishes of -various things which must needs be brushed and save the cost of renewing -paints and varnishes. - -Brush work in the home is the most pregnable of citadels, but one that -can be easily fortified against calumnies by a little attention to what -a brush is, does, and can be. - -Of course, a brush is meant to brush. The two main classes of brushes in -which you are interested are the household and personal. Of these two we -will discuss the household and just touch in passing the personal brush -(such as nail brush, clothes, etc.), and will not enter into the -paint-brush story even though the paint-brush is in household use on a -surprising number of occasions. - -Bristles and fibers and hair are the brush of the brush. The finest -brushes are of bristle and hair and the less fine are of fiber save -where bristle would not function any better for the job than fiber. Hair -is used in some brushes where fine work and delicate surfaces are -involved. For example, the shaving brush is of hair, the silver brush of -bristle, the whisk of fiber. A room wall brush, too, is often of hair to -save the paper or wall finish. - -Bristles come from the hog’s (or boar’s) back, and the colder the -country in which this quadruped roams the longer and tougher the -bristle. Therefore, the Siberian bristle has always been the -toughest--and the Chinese have come a close second. We get bristles, -too, from France and Belgium. The bristles from the United States are -not tough, as we kill the hog too soon--for bacon. However, for a soft -brush these bristles are very fine. Japan imports bristles and so did -Austria before 1914. - -The resilient, springy quality in the bristle cannot be duplicated in -any other brush material. Due to-day to the disorganized trade -conditions, with Europe and Asia, the bristle brush is almost a luxury. - -The American brush has been conceded to be as fine as the European or -magically “imported” brush, as there is not any place to-day where the -home is being studied by the brush makers as it is being done in -America. - -Bristles don’t break if bent--and the longer the bristle, the stiffer -and stouter is the butt end by which it is securely fastened. Therefore -all hail the wild old hog! - -Horsehair, badger, camel’s hair, etc., are ideal materials for some -brushes. Many household brushes are made of horsehair, shaving brushes -of badger, and the artist’s brush is made of camel’s hair when it can be -had. Hearth brushes are sometimes made of the mane hair of the horse, -wall brushes, too; sometimes goat hair is used. Among other brushes made -of horsehair frequently are the crumb (table), pastry, bottle and dish -washing (white hair). The very best white horsehair comes from the -Russian pony and is very nearly as stiff as bristles. The black -horsehair of the finest grade is also imported, as the domestic is not -as good. Other horsehair comes from China, Australia, South America. - - -FIBER OR BRISTLE - -When you buy a brush, if you don’t know a fiber from a bristle, ask your -dealer. He may say: “No this is not bristle, it is made of Bass” (or -Bassine, Kitool, Palmyra or Palmetto or Rice Root, or Mixed Fibers, or -Union, or Union Marble, etc.). If he is a good dealer you need not fear, -if his price is not very low you need not be suspicious, because no good -brush is inexpensive to-day and no cheap brush is a saving. - -Of all the fibers Tampico (from Mexico, Central America largely), the -product of a species of cactus plant, is probably the best fiber. -Palmyra, too, is an excellent fiber, and comes from a plant indigenous -to regions near the Indian Ocean and the Valley of the Tigris. What -geographical scope we have in our homes! - -There are trade names for fibers such as Ox fiber, a fine quality of -fiber from the cabbage palmetto, and many other trade named fibers which -must be procured by ye purchasers only from purveyors of royal lineage. - -Brushes are made of mixtures of bristle and hair, such as some flesh -brushes or hand brushes, the bristles taking the brunt of the action and -holding the water better, yet protecting the hair. Fiber and bristles -are sometimes used in combination, too. - -If you buy an “all bristle” brush you don’t want a mongrel variety. If -it is a mixture you are getting a usable and amply priced brush. - -Black bristle is often made into pipe, window, stove, wall, radiator, -milk bottle and percolator brushes. - -The color, black or white, of bristles doesn’t stamp quality. In some -cases black bristles are bleached for esthetic reasons. For example, a -white tooth brush is more attractive. The natural white bristle usually -comes from China and the natural black from Siberia. - -Fibers in browns and whites, blacks and whites are mixed in brushes for -appearances. Color in brushes is a matter of attractiveness and does not -alter the usefulness or the wear of them. - -The number and variety of brushes on the market are tremendous--one firm -makes sixty-nine ordinary household brushes, and besides this has others -tucked away, to say nothing of the personal, industrial and professional -classes of brushes. Thousands is not an exaggerated figure to apply to -the variety of brushes for all uses on the market to-day. - -Another firm shows twenty-nine different kinds of scrubbing brushes (all -of fiber--Palmyra, Rice-Root, White Tampico, Ox Fiber, Palmetto, etc., -etc.) of varying shapes, sizes and color. The object being in every case -for the purchaser to buy the brush that fits the hand and the job. - - -BRUSHES MUST BRUSH ONLY - -Brushes, like any other implement, should do their own jobs only and -nothing else. A brush that gouges and does a chisel’s work is a poor -brush, no matter what quality the fiber or brush mark. The brush you buy -for your wall or your hardwood floor must not scratch, and must have -nothing in its construction that can scratch. Likewise, the brush you -buy for your toilet bowl must not scratch or wear the enamel and the -bristles must be bristles, for if of fiber you will have your brush -acting like a blotter. Your brush must clean and brush, it must not -become a bacteria nestling haven. - -Brushes bought for the radiator can get under the piano and into small -spaces, but they are still brushes and the more things they brush the -better, of course. Furthermore, bristles in a stove brush should not be -stiff enough to engrave designs on the nickel-work on the stove. - -The same may be said for the pot-scouring brush. It (if made of fiber or -bristle) must not chip enamel or aluminum by any part of its -construction. - -The brush that fits its works, saves time. For example, the brush that -is meant for the toilet bowl should be shaped to fit the toilet trap. It -should be so built that its wire will not rust; after it is shaken out -it ought not to drip when hung up; the bristles should not mat or -separate and should be so made as to bend to your will. If it is of -fiber, this brush will mat and become of no avail in short order. Such a -brush can be used as a bath-tub cleaning brush and will not break the -back when functioning. - -Baldness is the worst disease of bad brushes. Bristles and fiber must be -stitched and anchored so as not to shed. The frosting brush would be a -danger if a bristle were swallowed with a bite of cake. You probably -know the agony of a clothes brush that sheds bristles. The backless -twisted-in-wire brushes give brush area on all sides, and are so secured -that the bristle is fixed indefinitely. The brush that is all brush, -which has no emerging back to scratch, and which brushes at every angle, -saves time and extra effort, too. - - -THE PROTEAN VEGETABLE BRUSH - -One of the most useful brushes on the market is the vegetable brush. A -little brush whose uses are many. If there are a few in a household they -can be used for washing vegetables, scraping silk from corn, scrubbing -poultry, scouring pots and pans, cleaning white shoes, sprinkling -clothes, for they hold enough water, and scrubbing dishes. - -For the kitchenette to-day the sink brush and dishwashing brush with -their long handles are a boon for the housewife as she can keep her -hands in condition by not getting them into hot water so constantly. -These brushes have various other obvious uses besides. - -Don’t use paper to grease pans or glaze cakes; use a pastry brush. Of -course this brush must be made without glue or cement so that it can be -frequently washed in scalding water and the bristles still be where they -should be. - -A brush small enough for the percolater tube is to be had. It is good -for teapot spouts, gas burner holes, typewriter interstices, etc. - -Among other brushes to which you may need introduction are: - -_Wicker-Reed._ This gets in the tiny places so annoying to clean with -mammoth tools. - -_Refrigerator_ (or pipe brush). This is a fairy wand to keep off -plumbers from your estate. Almost a pipe-dream in its general -pipe-cleaning skill. - -_Hearth Brush._ A good utilitarian tool for those owning not only a home -but a hearth. - -_Radiator._ Gets around a radiator as if it loved it. Can be used under -a piano, etc. Good for chandeliers, under oven or gas stove, etc. - -_Comb Cleaner._ The same brush company which makes the above backless, -and twisted wire brushes has just put a little comb cleaning brush on -the market. It is like a little lawn mower which travels over and -through the comb teeth. - -_Brush cleaner._ This new thing is intended to loosen the soil which -attaches itself to brushes by scraping it off. It is made of bone -entirely. - -Remember there are hundreds of brushes and that they are designed for -every kind of thing, and best of all, there are companies who exist just -to fit you out with brushes and who will advise you just what kinds to -get. - - -MOPS AND DUSTERS - -Just a word or two about mops, which are more and more coming to be made -of cotton which, though not technically absorbent cotton, does absorb -the dust. They are not oily, but chemically treated and so will not hurt -the rugs. They should be of wire construction, no parts exposed so as to -scratch. They must be of strong, enduring cotton, reversible, washable, -with an adjustable long handle, usable for ceiling, walls, doors, -windows, pictures, baseboards and floors; good for corners. The handle -should be at least long enough to obviate all back bending. - -Of course there is a dish mop for washing cups, pitchers or dishes, and -the light weight wet mop, with long handle, of washable, reversible, -corner-hunting, absorbant cotton yarn. - -The duster that dusts and does not smudge is what is needed. The one -that can dust finger marks off polished surfaces, absorb the dust and -can get into difficult places without breaking the back or--more -important still--the heart. These and many other brushes are to be had -for your comfort and for the asking--and paying. - -Many times in the use of fiber brushes, whether for personal or -household uses, it is wise to immerse them completely in water for -one-half minute and set them aside to dry, resting on the fiber face of -the brush instead of the wooden back or on one of the ends. Laying the -brush flat down permits the entire surface to drain in the shortest -possible time. The object of dipping the brush in water before use is to -overcome a factory defect which is possible in some factories, for once -the fibers of the brush are dipped in water, the water is drawn up into -the hole by capillary attraction and rusts the staple which is of iron -wire; and as this staple starts to rust, it forms a bond with the wood -that makes the anchoring permanent. Should there be one or two loose -tufts, they will be cured by the rusting process. - -After using the brush, shake out the water and place it face downward or -standing on the bristles so that it will drain and dry. - -You are particularly interested in the manufacture of brushes, except to -get what you pay for. - -The handles of your brushes must be comfortable, smooth, long enough in -some instances to save your back from pain and short or small enough to -fit your hand. In all cases they must be firm and reliable. The handles -are preferably not joined with a swivel joint, as this is apt to turn. -The clamp is a better fastening. - -In the best grade of household brush most of the handles are of wood or -twisted wire, treated so as to be practically rustless. - -The nail brush and tooth brushes, of course, are often of French ivory -and the handle is so made as to allow no dirt to remain in the handle. -Often, too, the bristles can be taken out to be cleaned or replaced. -(The hair-brush is a story in itself.) - -Brushes must be easily cleaned and cared for. - -Brush racks can be bought or carpenters make them very simply. - -Above all, you want a brush that brushes, whose bristles or fibers are -anchored to stay, whose utility goes with years, not months, whose death -depends not on use but abuse, and to whose employing you look forward -with pleasure. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX - -THE QUIET HOUSE - - -The entrance to a house is like the tonic chord of a sonata. It gives -you the key, the introduction to the atmosphere of the home. You really -get an impression of a home immediately upon entering the hallway. It is -also true that on entering a house you are lured or repelled by the -sounds in it, whether from the house itself or the people living there. -If you are greeted by loud voices, slamming doors, creaking stairs, -there is immediately the impression that this particular home is not -well ordered and that the people in it are not at peace. But if you are -at once enveloped by quiet and loveliness, a feeling of peace is -suggested and involuntarily we expect to meet a charming family. - -The good architect always gives the builder a set of plans that should -make a satisfactory house, but, as an eminent architect recently said, -“It seems to be the aim of most builders to change every detail of the -architect’s plan.” So it is a wise idea to watch the construction of -your home so that when the house is actually built you will find it not -only attractive to look at but so well constructed in every detail that -there are no complaints to make as to leaks or noise or cold. If a house -is built of good materials, is well planned, is well put together, a -sense of peace is usually the result. In order to accomplish this, every -detail of the house must be considered, the windows and the doors, the -stairs and floors. - -Due to the high cost of building, heavy masonry is not always used in -the division of rooms and the separating of stairs from rooms. Where a -slight partition only is required, there are on the market to-day -asbestos, felt, and composition “boards” which render excellent service, -and are often fireproof and sound-proof. - -To shut away a nursery, these light weight, sound-proof partitions are -admirable. They not only leave a nursery perfectly quiet at night, shut -away from all the disturbances of the house, but during the daytime they -keep the family from hearing the play, the romping, or the unhappy times -in the nursery. Of course, the arrangement of rooms, such as the -relation of the nursery and kitchen to other parts of the house, has -much to do with the peace of the home. The service end of the house -should, so far as possible, be shut away by halls and doors, from too -close communication with the living part of the house. Think of this -when you are planning your home. - -All uncovered floors are noisy no matter how well they are laid or how -nicely they are finished. Of whatever your floor is made it should be -well constructed, over an adequate sub-floor; if of wood, it should be -put down so compactly that there is never a sound from it. But when it -comes to quiet you must have the carpets or rugs. Bare floor never -produces it, under any conditions. - -Metal weather strips! So important are they in relation to comfort and -peace in the house that they should really be included in the -specifications for the building of a home. Besides keeping out wintry -blasts, they contribute much to a quiet atmosphere. In the first place, -they help to keep the din of the street from indoors; also when they are -applied to the interior of doors, the noise from one room doesn’t -easily reach another. Windows that carry weather strips slide up and -down easily. And a good word can be said of the weather-stripped door. A -door with this silencer about it closes quietly and surely; even if one -is in a hurry, the door does not show it. Another device for lessening -the sound of doors shutting is a piston noise retarder. It has an air -cushion which is attached to the frame of the door and the piston is -fixed to the door. This keeps the door from slamming. Screen doors, -which are of no use unless they shut quite tightly, should be fitted -with this device. Children will bless it and so will the servants in the -house. All these things should be considered both as to price and -comfort when you are planning your house, so that when you first begin -to live in it you find peace and quiet, instead of a succession of -irritating worries. - -A small device but one not to be regarded lightly, is a set of rubber or -glass furniture protectors which, when affixed to the legs of any piece -of furniture, make it possible to move it about without noise and -without any especial effort. These protectors also save the floor and -keep the carpets from being worn and torn. They are easily attached and -not expensive. - -The “silence cloth” on the dining table, whether made of cloth or -asbestos, is another means of lessening disturbing sounds in a house. - -And in some homes I have known it to be a rule that all the servants -must wear rubber heels. This not only lessens the noise in the house, -but it mitigates, to a very great extent, the weariness felt by busy -maids who are on their feet practically all day long. - -A great deal of the clattering sound in a kitchen can be avoided by -lining the cutlery drawers with felt, so that when silver and knives are -put away the clashing of pieces together is avoided. Pantry dresser -drawers should be lined in the same way. This lining felt can easily be -installed by pasting or tacking, and it is not expensive. - -A place for everything and everything in its place is an especially good -idea in connection with the pots and pans in a kitchen. Much of the -annoying sound from this source can be obviated by hanging the utensils, -because most of the sound is due to the falling together of pots and -pans as they are piled on top of each other when being put away on the -shelves after use. - -One of the chief offenders against the charm of the home in the matter -of noise is cheaply constructed plumbing. This is not only unsanitary, -but at times deeply embarrassing. Good plumbing is an absolute essential -in the well-constructed house. Nothing will betray your economy so -promptly as plumbing that is not of good materials and well placed. It -is necessary to get all your fixtures from the most reputable dealer, -and have the best workman put them in, and then you will save money in -the long run and charm and peace will envelop the plumbing side of life. - -The bathtub with a water inlet so fixed that there is only a little -noise for a few seconds or none at all is a point of perfection that -manufacturers are making every effort to attain. Perhaps the nearest to -it is a device hung very low in the tub so that after the first few -inches of water the faucet is covered, and the noise from the inflowing -water is smothered. - -People who will not endure the slightest rattle or creaking in an -automobile will live for months with a squeaking, leaking faucet. A -slight adjustment will usually remedy the difficulty; sometimes only a -washer is needed. And even an entirely new faucet is not a purchase with -very serious consequences. - -As yet no way has been found to modify the noise of the telephone -without lessening its effectiveness. The telephone is rung to catch your -attention and if you muffle the bell too completely you are liable to -lose an important call. If you have a very noisy telephone bell in an -apartment where every sound is heard, you can muffle it slightly with a -little pad of absorbent cotton. This is an especially good thing to try -where the sound of the bell disturbs an invalid or little children. - -Rugs are a delightful way to reduce noise in the hall. A long runner -that goes the whole length of the hall and about half its width will -keep your hall quiet for your own house and prevent its disturbing your -neighbors. Of course, in a house where the hall is large and capacious, -the surface is much more interesting covered with groups of rugs; a -runner spoils its interest and a carpet is less intriguing. - -Quiet is one of the most difficult things to find these days in the -city, and also one of the most essential things for one’s work and -happiness and health. There is only one way to acquire it in the modern -home and that is to look after every detail of your house at the very -beginning. - -After all, the things that make for quiet are in the main little things. -Yet it takes thought, some experience and a good deal of attention to -detail at the beginning of making a home, to insure in it that pervasive -charm which must have for its foundation quiet throughout the house. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI - -OSTRACIZING THE FLY - - -“Try my glasses,” coaxed a kind old lady, when her young friend broke -her own bone rims. And she did. But she was far from happy--in fact, -quite miserable; and her eyes took a long time to recover from the -ravages of the ill-fitting glasses. - -Naturally nobody should use glasses made for another. Glasses that have -been more than carefully fitted to the individual’s eye are none too -good if comfort and eye ease are desired. - -So it is with the installation of screens. It may sound queer to compare -eye-glasses and screens, but nevertheless the analogy is nearly perfect. -As the eyes vary, so do the apertures of the various homes. Therefore, -unless screens are fitted carefully to each window, door or porch there -will be discrepancies, and if one fly or insect can get in others can -and there will be not only discomfort but probably disease distribution. - -Swat the fly? No! Don’t give yourself a chance to swat it. Keep it out! - -Therefore if you have a house to screen do it the best way you can or -the money spent will be a dead loss. They must be bug-tight even as a -ship is water tight; unless they are, you will be the host at continual -insect balls and chairman of the rust convention and store up for -yourself an irritability unprecedented. For there is no more annoying -thing in the home than recalcitrant or obstinate screens. - -It is strange that any missionary work need be done about screens -because almost every one agrees upon their uses in health prevention and -comfort assurance, yet withal the purchasing of them is done ignorantly -and as carelessly as the young woman who uses anybody’s glasses for her -own particular and peculiar eyes. - -To begin with, do not order screens to be made “right away”; they cannot -be done in less than a thirty-day month and be made with any finish. -Order early enough after you have received estimates from the best -screen makers; then take the estimate which gives you the best value -after you have either seen the models, actual installations, or are -satisfied that you will get the thing that you need for your particular -case. The skilful screen men treat your case as individually as the -oculist treats your eyes. - -Your screens should be: - - 1. Simple to manipulate, should pull up, lower, raise or thrust out, - easily and happily, and should be simply removed for storage if - necessary and uncomplicatedly re-applied. - - 2. All the hardware should be inseparable from the body of the - screen--that is: catches, bolts, locks, etc. - - 3. All the metal work should be rustless and adapted to the region in - which you live. - - 4. Frames must be rigid and wire cloth taut, well fastened at every - point in the frame, not sag, and be rigid. - - 5. Wooden frame screens must be of kiln-dried, seasoned wood, and when - expedient, of hard wood. - - 6. Renewal of wire cloth must be a simple matter without an armory of - fancy tools. - - 7. All should be neat, attractive, matching the window, door or porch - trim where they are placed. - - 8. They must be a pleasure to use, not limiting the use of the window - or door screened, nor breaking the back or arm when in use. - -Screen frames are made of metals and of wood. Due to the architectural -design of some windows or doors it is necessary for a wood frame to be -used, and for the same reason it is often wiser to use a metal frame. -Wherever metal frames can be used they are the best to buy, as they will -stand up longer, and, if the best be bought, they will need less -renovation, as they can be made rigid at only half the width of the wood -screen. Furthermore, you get more ventilation than you do with the -wood-framed screen. Of course, you want air and as much as you can get -of it; therefore the narrower the frame the more perfect the screen. - -The metals used in frames are pretty much up to the quality of your -screens’ maker. They are to be had of bronze and various concoctions of -bronze dependent on the patents of your purveyor; of grass finish, -copper finish; steel enameled; steel painted; steel grained to look like -the wood trim; steel galvanized and steel regalvanized; monel metal. - -To be honest, there are two better classifications of screens: those -that are rustless and those that are not. - -Monel metal is used for seashore houses, as the salt air does not -corrode or corrupt it. Variations of the bronze screen are also adapted -to seashore use. - -The painted steel screen has to be painted over and over again to keep -it from rusting and wearing out. - -The galvanized screen is practically rustless and the re-galvanized is -quite positively an insurance against rust. - -Be sure that when you buy a bronze frame it is not simply a bronze steel -frame. Steel invites rust, and the way to have a rustless screen is to -make steel an absentee or galvanize it. - -All the hardware must be of non-rusting metal. No doubt, as soon as the -rustless steel is on the market in large quantities, screen men will be -using it instead of galvanizing, painting, etc., and using it and bronze -and monel metals for hardware. - - -SOME DETAILS - -The corners in the metal (and in the wood frame as well) have to be of -exquisite workmanship. The best types have no screws or rivets or plates -or projections of any sort, yet are of a perfect interlocking or welded -construction and hold the screen cloth at every point with infallible -tenacity. - -There is no aperture so shaped that it cannot be framed in screens by -the ablest screen makers. In the case of the metal screen the bent work -is really a work of art, in that they are not puckered or pinched, but -are _sans_ humps, _sans_ bumps, _sans_ everything but beauty, rigidity -and conformity to conditions. - -Every screen manufacturer has his own scheme for fastening the screen -cloth firmly in both metal and wood frames. The idea is that the cloth -must not sag in the frames, on the largest openings in doors or windows, -porches, etc., that when either whacked by the children or inadvertently -struck by adults, the cloth will remain taut and rigid and stay in place -in the frame. The tubular metal frame in this connection seems the most -logical metal frame. It is lighter and as strong as the other types of -metal frames. It is so admirably contrived that the cloth can be removed -without an extra tool and the springs and slides can be very -conveniently and admirably fitted. - -The tracks or slide upon which the metal frame works must be a slide and -not a series of sticking points. This means good workmanship. - -Another advantage the metal frame has over the wood frame is that it -does not need the disfiguring hinges; if hinged, it can be hung on the -pivot hinge which leaves no scar, and is inserted in the casing of -window and leaves no trace. When it is to be taken down for the winter -it is simply lifted out--no pins to come out of hinges and no -unscrewing. - - -VARIETIES OF METAL SCREENS - -The type of screen is of course dependent upon the kind of window or -opening you have to screen. The usual types are: sliding and rolling, -casement and stationery. - -The sliding screens are usually used on the double hung window and slide -on a slide. The best slides are of metal backed by wood. A double hung -window can be screened by a single screen or a double one, dependent on -the wish of the purchaser. The double slide is necessary, of course, in -the case of the double screen. - -In this connection it is interesting to note that there is a new type of -window lately on the market that arranges in the head of the window a -space into which not only the screen can disappear but the window -itself, and be out of the way. This of course allows for a completely -open window even more so than the casement. - -The pleasure of the slide screen is in the fact of its sliding and not -catching in a series of struggles to make it work. Springs and tubular -grooved frames complete this type. If the springs get out of order in a -tubular grooved frame, they can easily be taken out and restored without -special tools. They are protected also from wear and rust and made so as -to withstand atmospheric ravages. A safety device should be provided to -prevent the spring from accidentally disengaging itself. If the screen -is hung inside the window, one hand lift is sufficient. If it is hung -outside it is well to have another on the inside to be of service when -removing them for winter storage. - - -ROLLING SCREENS - -The acme of screen perfection is attained in the rolling screen. At -present this type is creating the interest it deserves, as it is adapted -to every kind of window and can be kept on the window throughout the -year. - -The screen is of metal and rolls up on a roller like a window shade; it -is of simple construction, durable and non-rusting. It is light and -rolls with great despatch. Some of these shadelike frames can be raised -and lowered at any point on the window frame; they are rigid, do not sag -on the broadest of windows and are equipped with non-rusting metal, and -are either of monel or bronze in fittings and framing. The track in -which they slide is also non-rusting and holds the screen well in place. -The screen cloth is of the best mesh and is tightly fastened at every -point in the frame. - -The fact that these screens are inside the window leaves them free from -the ravages of the elements, which is another point in their favor. Some -of these screens are supplied with a cord like a shade that pulls up and -down the same way. Some of these roller screens have employed zinc on -all exposed parts, and this is a rust preventive. The same brand employs -a waterproofed fabric less expensive than metal, also bronze, copper and -monel metal. - -One especial type of rolling screen presents an advantage that is very -desirable--it has a patent side grip for the edges of the monel screen -cloth and a perfected runway in which travels a series of metal clips -holding the cloth and so arranged as to roll up without difficulty. The -screen roll is assembled in a zinc casing, made exactly to fit the -window, which is easily attached to the “stops” at the top of the window -frame and, when painted or stained to match the trim, looks like a part -of it and is almost invisible. The two side “runways,” also of zinc, are -screwed to the window “stops” like weather strips and are painted or -stained in similar manner making them entirely inconspicuous. - -[Illustration: - - _Wire cloth rolls into this bar_ - - _Screen raised to any height for adjustment of windows_ - - _Courtesy of Rolup Screen Co._ - -THE SCREEN WHICH ROLLS UP IS A COMFORT AS WELL AS A SAFE AND SANE INSECT -OSTRACIZER] - -The window shade is then replaced just below the screen casing and -neither interferes with the other. - -The screen is so adjusted that it easily pulls down or pushes up at -will, automatically locks itself on being brought down to the sill, and, -after being released by a slight upward push remains in whatever -position it is left. It covers the whole of every window and is so -simple in construction and direct in action that, once installed, it -should never get out of order. In case of damage it can easily be -removed, new parts obtained and as easily be relocated. In new houses, -under construction, provision can easily be made to “sink” the screen -casing and side runways into the window frames so that they are almost -invisible. - -If the rolling screen is not used, the casement can be covered with -top-hung outside screens, side-hung, double-door style, or single from -one side or stationary on the outside, if the window opens inside. When -possible the casement screen should be hung on pivot hinges to permit -ease of detaching for storage, and, as we said before, to leave the -window without the marring of the hinge there or removed. However, -frequently in the case of the unusually large screen the use of a little -strap hinge is sometimes necessary to carry the extra weight. In marble -window casing the hinge of course is an impossibility. - -A couple of side levers on either side of the screen for releasing the -pivots when the screens are to be taken off for the winter make the -matter of removal as easy as “falling off a log.” - -The top hinge screen on the outside of the window which pushes out from -the inside has to be hung very securely and the bolts and pivots and -handles and adjusters have to be made to perfection. The adjuster for -pushing this window out or open must be a pleasure to use or else this -type of screen will be a curse. There is an adjuster now on the market -that is put on the window in such a way that the screen can be opened or -closed without opening the inside of the window. A double insurance -against inroads of bugs while opening the window to adjust screen! - -Put up to “stay put” stationary screens are fastened with bolts which -are removed when necessary to store. - - -WOODEN FRAMES - -The story of the wooden frame is about the same as the metal, only that -the wood frame can’t rust, but can wear out if not seasoned and kiln -dried and given all the care in manufacture that long life in woods -necessitates. - -Here, too, the corner construction must be perfect, must be able to bear -the weight of the screen and take out the jars. The frame must be rigid, -light and strong. The wire cloth must be so fastened at every point that -there is no sag or bagginess in the broadest window. - -Now all this is possible in the best wood frame screens and with good -workmanship. Every one thought for a long time that the metal screen -could not incorporate their good points. Don’t be fooled by some one -saying that the wood screen cannot be made “fool proof,” for it can and -is. Here again every maker has his own device for catching the metal -cloth; here again the metal cloth must be rustless; here again the metal -work and hardware must be rustless; the screen must make easy -manipulation possible. - -The screen door question, too, is rallied round with the same provisos -of manufacture as metal and wood screens. There are the two leaf door -and the one leaf. - -The new thing on the door is the fact that the whole door may be -screened or only one-half screened, the rest of wood or metal. Yet it is -far better to have the whole door screened, but for the sake of beauty -and lack of monotony the lower half can be guarded with a metal panel -which will not only look well but protect the wire cloth. Sometimes, -too, in the wholly screened door just a metal guard rail is applied to -prevent injury to the wire cloth on the full expanse of a door. - -If half the door is of wood, there again you lose the free entry of air, -so it is advisable to screen the door completely and use the guard metal -work to beautify and protect it. - -Some of the lower portions of doors (as is the case with French windows) -are beautifully carved to be in keeping with a handsome wood interior. - -Doors, too, should be equipped with a good check to prevent them from -banging and close tightly. - -Locks or no locks, are questions to be decided by the buyer, but all -hardware, belts, catches, pins, hinges, etc., should, of course, follow -the “no-rust” régime, and be of the most durable stuff and match up with -the surrounding hardware. - -Even though the frame and its hanging are of vital importance, yet what -would the screen be without the screen cloth? And, of course, there are -as many kinds of cloth in this quarter of the world’s work as in any -other and you have to know something of the variety in order to know -what you are buying, to buy advantageously. Here again you play the old -tune: Rustlessness. - -The cloth must be of a mesh not too fine for free entry of air, and fine -enough to prevent the smallest insects from entering. But here you must -use discretion. If your home is in the Adirondacks where black flies and -midgets precede the mosquitoes, then it is the better part of wisdom to -use a finer mesh; if you are at the seashore, the ordinary coarser mesh -is sufficient. - - -WIRE CLOTH VARIETIES - -There is also choice here. You can have: - - 1. Painted steel cloth which must be repainted often in accordance - with its exposure and in regard to where it is exposed and whether it - is hung inside or outside of the window. - - 2. Galvanized steel mesh: This is often blackened for eye ease. - - 3. Monel metal (an alloy of copper and nickel) guaranteed rust proof, - used mainly at seashore resorts but good for any place. - - 4. Bronze and patented bronzes: Used as is the monel wire cloth. Here - a coat of paint to dull the bronze glare is of real service to the - eye. - - 5. Copper: A coat of dull paint here, too, will take off the glare. - -Manufacturers have various bronze cloths and they are sold under various -names. Its great use is imperviousness to rust but it has to be of the -best manufacture to insure this paradisiacal condition. - -The porch that is screened with pernickety screens never is screened in -time to reject the insect world. So here is another case where they must -fit and be made to order. - -What is a sleeping porch without a screen? Without a functioning screen? -One swallow may not make a summer, but one fly can make torture out of -night. - -Some makers will key your screens so that each screen has its tag for -replacement and there is no loss of effort and time in resetting them -next year in their proper places. This can be done in windows, door and -porch work. Of course, with the rolling screen--they are never taken -down and much labor is saved. - -Screens are not a luxury; they are a health measure. When we get more -civilized we will probably have our screens inspected to see that they -fit, and the boards of health in the various towns will keep a close -watch on them, for diseases are rapidly being traced to the minute -insect carriers. Typhus and yellow fever are the last results. Think -what Central Europe would have been spared had it been properly -screened! - -Contrary to usual opinion screens can be most attractive and fit in with -the surrounding wood trim, and be a department of house furnishing not -to be belittled. And don’t fail to realize that a lot of trouble can be -saved and unsightliness be avoided, if the screen is thought of before -building your home--and if the roller type is installed, you have no -storage care, or removal and recurring slavery. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII - -POLISHING THE WATER SUPPLY - - -“I found a fish in my bath-tub to-day,” said I to a friend. - -“Wasn’t that the best place in the house to find one?” was the reply. - -“Yes,” I said, “but I can’t say I enjoy bathing in an aquarium, and my -civic pride is hurt because I have been so proud of my city’s water -quality and all of the sister municipalities which filter or chlorinate -or both.” - -In this anecdote is the crux of the filter situation. - -In times gone by a filter was sold to save life from polluted waters, -from streams, wells, surface sources, sewage-burdened rivers, etc. It -was a dire necessity and became by its efficiency or lack of it a -godsend or a menace. If it were a good filter it needed care and -attention in the greatest degree to make it a boon; if it were a bad -filter it continued despite care to be a curse far more dangerous than -the unfiltered product because it became a collector and a breeding -place for bacteria and doled out water as pure to the most modest of -drinkers. - -But as with every department of living in this realm, things have moved -on. In this case gloriously. For since the municipalities have taken our -lives in their hands the dangers from bad filters are slight and the -need of good ones necessary but not a life-and-death matter. In short, -the excitement about filters in the home is dead but their use goes -marching on. - -However, as this story will be read by inhabitants of unfiltered -municipalities and towns, whatever danger and comfort can accrue from -non-filtration or filtration of water will be evident after a glance at -this attempt to bring it to your mind. Just as this goes to press we see -in the paper that a western town of Salem has seven hundred and eighty -cases of typhoid in a population of ten thousand. Here is food for -thought! - -Hundreds of towns (one firm alone has installed about 163 plants) in the -United States have municipal filtration plants. Some even oxygenate the -water by fountaining it esthetically skyward and allowing it to entice -to itself oxygen (from the free air), by which it gets life and polish -and becomes refreshing. - -Some towns chlorinate the water supply. When water is chlorinated, -minute quantities of chlorine are added which absolutely destroy the -germs in the water, but do not alter its chemical or physical -characteristics in the least. The difference between a water that has -been chlorinated and one that has not been so treated is that in the -first case the germs are destroyed, but in the second case they remain -in the water to cause possible disease. - -This process is rarely used in the home as the control is too difficult. -But in the case of the elaborate residence with large incumbencies in -the way of model farms, dairy, stables, machine shops, etc., it is used. -Also the smallest plants are used in the case of large swimming pools in -and out of fine residences, where, of course, the water has been found -to be bacterially degenerate and where the work of purification is not -done by a benign municipality. - -To get to the roots of the matter you want water (you don’t care what -the high-browed engineer does to it) to be: - - 1. Colorless. - - 2. Tasteless. - - 3. Odorless. - - 4. Free from suspended matter. - - 5. With enough oxygen gas to make it refreshing and give it life. - - 6. Without germs or food for germs. - -What you want to keep out: - - 1. Suspended impurities: vegetable, animal (such as the fish), - mineral, microscopical algæ (what you see on the stagnant waters), - infusoria, etc. - - 2. Dissolved impurities. - - 3. Disease germs: typhoid, cholera, etc. - -What you must demand in a filter: - - 1. All the above. - - 2. Durability. - - 3. Simplicity of management. - - 4. Nearest approach possible to self cleaning. (The uncertain human - element makes many a good filter fall down.) - -These four things are essential to the longevity of the filter and to -you, if you inhabit filterless vales. - -Another thing suggested by the fourth article of faith above is the care -of the filter. If you have a maid you can’t be sure in what state the -filter is, unless you keep close watch or have constant inspection by a -service bureau. Slight danger from the nearly self cleaning filter can -by care be entirely eliminated. But only with care. - -To clarify after its long pipe journey (probably through rusty pipes, -etc.); to insure plumbing (in case of the installed filter in the -cellar) against clogging, incrustations and general wear, accumulations -of material bound to enter the water on its trip through the pipes to -the house--due to broken water mains, fires in the city--accidents of -any kind; to give the laundry a clean appearance, for the best laundry -work availeth little if the water is murky or turbid; to polish water, -or render it free from flavor and turbidity. - -When typhoid had its happy hunting ground in plumbing it was thought -quite in keeping to have typhoid cases in abundance. In Pittsburgh and -other such afflicted towns it is now felt to be a heinous sin, since -filtration has become a part of the service that towns render to their -inhabitants. In fact, all boards of health to-day feel it to be a felony -and disgrace to find a case of such a disease in the community. - -So, to public-spirited citizens in unfiltered regions, your task is cut -out for you. You can get rid of muddy, dirty water by municipal -filtration plants or home filters and care. - -For those who live in filtered towns the use of filters is manifest, -too. - -There are various kinds of filters in use, but only two kinds are of -interest for use in the home. - - 1. The type affixed to spigot (or water cooler). - - 2. The installed filter placed in cellar or other part of the home to - filter the whole water supply. - -These are divided into many technical categories, but what you are -interested in are the following questions: Do you need a filter? What -shall you have to know to buy a filter intelligently? - -Rapidly stated, it is safest to buy a filter from a manufacturer who -says “my filter is not absolutely perfect but it is the nearest thing to -perfection we can get. We know our filter can render water from 90 to -100% free from bacteria, as we have had bacteriological tests made by -competent chemists.” - -When you order a filter, put down on paper the answers to the following -questions, and send them to the manufacturers who will then give you -the data and prices. Choose the best manufacturer and then invest: - - 1. Are the fixtures all on direct water supply or are they supplied - from an open storage tank or combination of the two? - - 2. What are the source, nature and peculiarities of the water to be - filtered? Has it odor, taste, vegetable discoloration, clay or iron - stain? - - 3. What sort of water supply system do you use and what of the water - pressure? What is the size of the supply pipe? (Ask your plumber.) - - 4. How many gallons of water are required to be filtered per minute, - per hour or per 8, 10, 12, or 24 hours? (Ask your plumber.) - - 5. How many bathrooms and other water fixtures are in your home? - - 6. Is there a municipal plant in your town? What kind? - -Since 1885 thousands of filters have been patented. Years ago the -smallest and most unreliable maker would put a filter on the market and -promise immunity from death and let it go at that, because folks are -anxious to be saved. To-day not many more than six filters are really -sold with a guarantee by reliable firms backing them. Why? Because most -of these filters were cheap and flimsy, did nothing but strain water and -strain their point as well. These small manufacturers would spring into -being one day and sink into oblivion the next. The filters, if they did -filter (not strain, only), would become breeding nests for bacteria. -Physicians feared and forbade them. - -The filters on the market to-day are in varying degrees reliable, -depending greatly on their functions, on the amount of care and wear, -and how they are used. For example, coarse gravel as a medium through -which to purify water might be good to take out bits of sediment--big -bits--but it would not act on the bacteria. - -In general, the materials used in filters through which the water must -pass to be purified are: sand, quartz, charcoal, cloth, paper, etc. -Another class of filters passes the water through a bougis or candle -made of unglazed porcelain (Kaolin), natural stone, artificial stone, -asbestos, diatomaceous earth, etc. The pores through which the water -flows catch the bacteria and sediment. - -With this list before you you must ask yourself if you need only a -strainer. Is the water free from bacilli? Have you a municipal -chlorinating plant or filter plant? If so, any good filter will do to -strain out suspended matter; but if you are very anxious to have perfect -water you cannot go wrong by having a filter which will catch bacteria -which may have accidental entry, in any community whatever. - -If you know you have dirty water and no municipal plant you cannot be -too careful as to what you use in rendering safe the water from well, -stream or any other source. - -The most reliable faucet filter is the diatomaceous earthen candle type -which is simply cleaned by brushing off its soft surface and boiling -occasionally to kill furtive bacteria. The great drawback to this type -of filter is that it is not a reformer and cannot force the user to keep -it clean. Therefore it is up to the user, and as its agent told the -writer, “Filter use in a city like New York is a matter of temperament. -Some people enjoy caring for a filter in order to make a splendid water -supply fool-proof, others dislike the care and do not mind the slight -risk in any city water supply or the discoloration that is often -inherent.” - -Filters, whether installed or attached to faucets, are built to fit the -occasion. - -It is interesting to realize that nearly every fine home in New York, -especially on Fifth Avenue, has a filter, despite the city’s excellent -water supply. Not so much to save life, as it so often does owing to -frequent invasions of germs into even excellent water, but for the -feeling of clean unflavored, unfishy, unwoody water and for the -insurance of long life of the plumbing system--and to save deterioration -in plumbing is a thing devoutly to be wished. - -Sand or quartz is the usual medium for filtration in the home. Bone char -is often added to these to destroy taste, for there is nothing as -disagreeable as water with a decided taste. - -There are a few filters to-day which when installed in the cellar -consist of one or two vertical tanks attached to the water supply. In -one tank is quartz through which the water passes and in the other is -bone char to carry away flavor. - -In one case the filter has a simple lever which when set at a certain -spot on the dial washes out the filter beds and frees them from -contamination. - -As the impurities in the water are removed by a filter they accumulate -in a mass or cake on top of the filter bed. If this cake or matted -formation is not broken up and thoroughly disintegrated, it will roll up -during the washing process and not only clog but contaminate a filter -bed, utterly destroying its efficiency as a purifying medium, steadily -diminishing the water supply. Hence a cutting plate is placed -immediately above the bed of quartz. As soon as the operating lever is -moved to the point “Washing,” the washing current is introduced at the -bottom of the filter, the filter bed is lifted bodily upward and forced -through the cutter, which literally tears the matted film of impurities -into fragments. At the same time it thoroughly breaks up the bed, -separates and perfectly scours each grain of filtering material, by the -force of the reverse current of water in a space twice the size it -occupies during the filtering process. - -The impurities having been separated from the bed and broken up into -minute particles are carried out of the filter through the waste pipe by -the reverse current of water. During this process a screen at the top of -the filter prevents the filtering material quartz from escaping out of -the filter. - -In this way by the least effort--the turn of a handle--once a week--the -filter becomes a boon and not a menace. After the cleaning process is -over, a matter of from ten to twenty minutes, the lever is turned to -another point “designated in the bond” and the filter goes back to -normal. The agitated sand and char are calmed down and ready to chasten -the next lot of water. - -In some localities where the water (though it may be chlorinated and -bacteria-free) is dark and turbid and full of the finest sediment, the -usual sand or quartz (even with the tiniest of spaces between the -grains) cannot prevent this hyper-fine sediment passing through into the -filter. In order to catch this impure water with its fine sediment alum -is often introduced into the filter to coagulate the fine sediment (as -you have seen the white of an egg coagulate coffee grounds) and permits -it in the “flock” to be caught as it passes through the interstices of -the filter bed. - -Here you can easily see why you must be careful to give the filter -manufacturer a graphic description of your water supply. Then, too, the -installed filter, just described may be rendered useless if by any means -the pipes in the home become contaminated. - -There are some filters on the market (this caution is for the unfiltered -community) which only strain. - -Those fitted with paper, cloth, cotton, etc., are fine in their places, -but you must know their places. - -One filter, for example, is said to be very speedy. However, in this -case (this filter is attached to the faucet) you are admonished to let -the water run for about half a minute, because, as the water ran through -before, the collection of germs must be given a chance to flow out. In -this filter the water flows in at one end through bone char and quartz -and the next time it is used the current is reversed and flows back -through the filter bed, self-washing but carrying with it the bacteria -collected on its last passage. Therefore, if you forget to let the water -run for a time, you may get your stomach full of more potent germs than -if you used the ordinary water with its occasional bacteria. - -Good filters in the last analysis spell “safety first” wherever they may -be. For despite municipal intervention accidents will happen, and even -though the trouble be corrected in a short time, fifteen minutes can -prove a real menace. - -There is one filter just coming to our markets, made in Germany, which -has been tried and tested and found good. It is affixed to the water -supply (direct, not in cellar) and accomplishes filtration by the -process of passage of water through a paper-like fabric of disks ¹⁄₄″ -thick. These disks keep water absolutely sterile in the laboratory for -17 days but the makers, rightly, will only guarantee them for 48 hours -in order to obviate danger to their promises, through the accidents -which may happen. The test under German scrutiny proved that typhoid -germs were rendered nil for 17 days and try as they might could not -force their way through the disks. - -This is a good certificate of good conduct. Sewage for example during -the war was rendered harmless as drinking material by the means of this -filter disk, so it is claimed. - -Filtering, unlike sterilizing, does not take the life out of water or -make it readily absorb odors and flavors. - -Remember, that some filters remove bacteria and the finest sediment only -(the candle type). Others remove sediment of all sizes and bacteria, -too; while still others kill flavor to boot. Discuss the point with your -plumber, architect, doctor and manufacturer and water department. As -with clothes so with filters: buy what suits the need and buy carefully -after securing all the advice available. - -One might say pompously that the purchasing of a filter may be the -purchase of life itself, or--facetiously--that the good filter takes the -“imp” out of impure water. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII - -OUTSTRIPPING THE GALE - - -Weather strips are not the caviar of the building menu--far from it. -They are a whole lot more like the roast beef with pan gravy and baked -potatoes. - -Those of you who bought weather stripping years ago and either put it on -yourself or had the town carpenter tack it on, do not believe it is any -good, and at best only a “fancy fixing.” But those days are passed and -the weather strip has properly outstripped many other things in -development and has come to be no hors d’oeuvre but the pièce de -resistance of the bill-of-fare. So important has the effect of the strip -become that heating and ventilating engineers have been and are to-day -carrying on experiments, not to prove their value (no, for this has been -proven), but to have exact data to show how much fuel is saved and just -how evenly the temperature can be maintained throughout a home under -varying conditions of gale and stability outdoors and in. (See Chapter -XXXV, Heating). - - -THINGS THEY OBVIATE - -Do you care to heat the great outdoors? This is the first important -question. If you do, how dare you with the shortage of coal to-day? Have -you sufficient coal to waste it? Is your home hard to heat? Why? Do you -like the gales and little hurricanes racing over your floors, chasing -the little snow flakes? Do you like to cultivate colds and other draught -diseases? - -These are pertinent questions even if they seem impertinent. They -suggest the graphic pictures that we do not want inhabiting our homes. - -These conditions can be obviated. - -If you inquire from your friends who know intelligently the value of the -furnishings they use, you will get concrete figures before investing. -One conspicuous friend, Uncle Sam, says that in 1918 he saved two -million dollars’ worth of coal by the use of weather strips. And this -led the director of conservation to make the extravagant statement that -weather strips are 100% fuel conservation. - - -WHAT THEY ARE - -In the past when the telephone had just become a household staple and -before horse cars evaporated you used to paste the weather strips on the -outside of your windows. Then they were made of cloth, or rubber or -heavy paper, and they made life slightly fair and warmer; but most of -the heat accrued by them was that which was fired in trying to raise the -windows which stuck due to the adherence of the weather strip. - -To-day the weather strip is gentler and not only keeps the cold air at -bay, but keeps out the dust and noise and permits the window to go up -and down more easily because it runs on a metal track; really the -weather strip allows it to glide like magic. To move a window with the -weather stripping affixed is a pleasure which the weakest reed can -enjoy. - -The dictionary says “the weather strip is a narrow strip, as wood edged -with rubber prepared to be placed over crevices, as at doors and -windows to exclude wind, rain, etc.” - -This is the old weather strip. To-day they are in general metallic -tubular strips fitting into complementary depressions in metal linings -or window sashes that are designed and shaped to seal the cracks that -naturally occur between and around doors and windows and their frames, -sealing up these openings so that the elements are turned back before -they get even their noses into the house. They are made of -non-corroding, non-rustable metals such as zinc, bronze and copper, and -they keep their elasticity plus non-leakage qualities as long as, and -sometimes longer than, the building itself. - -Every type of door and every type of window present different problems, -and every window or door of each type has again different problems, so -to each there must be different applications. The following will explain -more particularly than the foregoing. - - -THE SLIDING WINDOW - -The sliding window is the most general type to be treated. - -Here the top and bottom, sides and meeting rail must be considered. How -to stop leakage and seal against unwelcome callers are the problems. - -At the top of the window, as in the illustration, two strips are used; -the tubular protuberance in the head of the frame nestles cosily in the -depressed concavity of the window sash. Some brands line the depression -with metal--others do not. - -When the window is closed, there is a complementary interlocking device -at the rail where the upper and lower sash meet, often in the upper sash -of S shaped bronze and in the lower sash a hook-shaped copper strip. - -The side of the frame upon which the window is raised and lowered is a -real problem. The weather stripping makes the window weather-proof, yet -it makes it open and shut easier than it could before the application of -the strip. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of Monarch Metal Weatherstrip Co._ - -DOUBLE HUNG OR ORDINARY SLIDING WINDOW TREATMENT WITH WEATHERSTRIPS -OBVIATES DRAUGHTS, DUST AND NOISE--SAVES COAL!] - -In some brands the frame lining and sash lining are of metal. In some -only the frame is metal lined. In some the frame is corrugated and the -window sash slides up and down easily as the protuberance slides into -the depression in the unlined sash furrow. In another brand two metal -tubular strips are used, the metal protuberance fitted into a metal -lined depression. Here the window slides easily and no amount of warping -can disturb the nice adjustment. In such weather strips are created -conditions which absolutely prevent the side action of windows, so hard -to cure with carpentry or cheap types of weather strips. - -The lower sash is managed as is the upper, only the strips are reversed. - - -OTHER CASES - -The casement window has its peculiarities of treatment, as have doors -and windows which open in the center. - -In the casement which opens in, for example, a brass triangle is -provided with “weep holes” to drain out any water which may accumulate -on the sill and follow through into the room. The meeting rail is sealed -in a way approximately as in the sliding window. - -The sill strip is peculiarly shaped to spring into its sealing power; -sometimes it is called a Z-shaped plate, each manufacturer having his -own name and pet plan. - - -DOORS - -The door sills are made with metal, and metal strips forming a sealed -joint against warping, settling air, etc. There is a very nice device -used to prevent the cold air let into the bedroom at night from escaping -into the halls and cooling them off. On the lower edge of the door is -fitted a spring which when the door is closed by contact with the hinged -side of the frame releases a felted pad which fits tightly against the -sill of the door. This makes one’s winter immersions a pleasure, for -the bathroom, if you have one connecting with your room, as well as the -hall will be warm for your morning use. - - -APPLICATION - -Weather strips can be applied after as well as when the house is built. - -“My house is so well built,” said a friend of mine, “that it does not -need weather stripping.” If that could have been so, it was a unique -house. There is hardly a house where the wood around the doors and the -windows does not warp or shrink or do something equally obnoxious. -Whether seasoned by long processes of actual weathering or rapidly kiln -dried, wood in captivity becomes restless, and seems to strain and -struggle in its fury. Nothing can be said against the builder--it is the -nature of wood. The builder is always glad to install the strips because -then the owner does not get a chance to feel antagonistic on account of -recalcitrant windows, difficult heating, etc., and is therefore relieved -from grumbling. - -The weather strip must be put on by the experts from the manufacturers -of the brand of weather strips that you buy. _Do not call in your -favorite carpenter or plumber, for he cannot do it right._ The putting -on of weather strips is a science in itself. They must be put on so as -to insure a uniform efficiency during the inevitable warpings, -shrinkings and swellings of the window. The windows have to be -conditioned carefully because the stripping must be so fixed that it -cannot be removed, if necessary to do anything to the window itself -afterwards, such as fitting new pulley cords, etc. Every window and door -offers different problems, so an expert must apply the strips to your -window and door. This is not a commodity that a baby can affix--it’s a -man sized job. - - -PURCHASING - -Remember the weather stripping that you buy should last as long as the -life of your house. For this reason the all metal kind is the best to -buy. The metal and cloth are efficient as long as they last, and so are -other combinations; but they do not last long enough. You must get a -longevity insurance. They must be made of non-rusting, non-corroding -materials such as bronze, copper, zinc or brass manufactured to a high -degree of dependability, and subjected to the most rigid inspection and -tests for accuracy, thereby awarding the buyer a rich guarantee. - -Find out from users of the brand you think you will buy, before you buy, -and see what they say and what their experience has been. - -Weather strips can be put on any opening, and should the purveyor you -speak to say this or that opening cannot be properly stripped, that is -your cue for seeking elsewhere. Buy only from established makers, who -will be in business for years--because in twenty or thirty years you -might want a window adjusted. - -Early in this article mention was made of the saving in fuel by Uncle -Sam. Professor Allen, of the Research Laboratory of The American Society -of Heating and Ventilating Engineers, in a letter to the writer said: - -“Roughly with ordinary good house conditions we can say that the air in -a room changes every hour due to leakage around windows. With good -weather strips you reduce the leakage very considerably. Of course, this -depends upon the type of construction in the house. Some years ago I -installed a complete system of weather stripping in an entire -institution and we roughly estimated that the saving of fuel was about -15%.” Since then other tests have been made to bring the percentage of -saving of fuel from 15% to 40%. - -When you think that a window shade keeps in 19.2% of warm air, think -what the fitted metal and interlocking strips can do. - -The weather strip not only keeps the cold air out but actually by not -admitting the cold air allows the heated air inside to maintain the -moisture necessary for comfort. With the admission of cold air the -moisture is precipitated from the air and we have not got the proper -humidity necessary to be happy. The moisture in the home comes from -water evaporation in kitchen lavatories, air itself which comes in, etc. - -The warm air can carry the humidity, but the cold air does not do it as -well, and when it strikes the warm air the latter is forced to condense. - -Comfort is the main thing in the home, even more sometimes than saving -fuel bills. - -“Comfort,” says Professor Allen in an address, “is the prime -consideration, more than maintaining a definite temperature. Getting the -temperature right brings comfort. We should aim at 40% to 50% of -moisture in the winter with 68 to 70 degrees.” - -The fact is that the heating engineer to-day allows for about ¹⁄₃ more -heating area when the house is not weather stripped. And then, sad to -relate, at this consequent extra expense the house will be probably -unevenly heated, because some rooms will have big window and door leaks -and other rooms little leaks, so there will be overheating in some rooms -and underheating in others. - -Another engineer said, “I have caught snow in my hand at a distance of -two feet from a tightly locked window in a house supposed to have better -than ordinary construction. - -“What ... can better this condition? Weather strips, metal weather -strips....” - -He also said in the same address on heating the home that the builder -did all he could do, with the materials he had. So there is the dilemma! - -The storm window can often be obviated by weather strips. The storm -window is much more of a nuisance than the appliquéd weather strips. Who -wants to add another set of windows to be cleaned? And who enjoys the -manipulation of them in rush moments of storm and wind? - - -FOR WIND, DUST AND NOISE - -The weather strip is the solution of the gale exposed home, of the -noise, dust and weather exposed home, of any home with windows at all. -It is not subject to depreciation but increases in value, and as the -house depreciates the weather stripping takes on the burdens of the ever -increasing depreciation and prevents any more rapid fuel consumption, -keeps down the dust infiltrations and lessens the cleaning bills. If, by -chance, the woodwork is still obstreperous the defect can always be -corrected, if a good brand of stripping has been used. - -In other words, weather strips are a good investment. Good weather -strips, like any good material, are a good investment. - -Much of our trouble with the heat in our homes comes from the -impossibility of even heating. Do what he will, the furnace man cannot -seem to heat the house. Often you say: “Why do you burn so much coal -and give us so little heat?” There may be other causes, but the lack of -weather stripping is very prone to be one. - - -QUIET AND CLEANLINESS - -The charm of the house is quiet. Don’t you unconsciously gage the -dignity of the homes that you visit by the quiet of them? - -The weather strip keeps much of the street noises out. It dulls and -reduces the raucousness of the clang and clatter. - -Every housewife knows that the hangings next to the windows get very -dirty. She also knows that the room gets full of dust whether the -windows are closed or not. A certain amount of dust will get into the -room no matter what precautions are taken, but there will be less of it -when weather stripping is applied to the windows. This is a -consideration worthy of notice, as the servant problem to-day makes all -effort in the home more arduous and the less cleaning there is to be -done the better for all concerned. - -Weather strips are not a luxury. They save money and give comfort by -maintaining an equal temperature and humidity, and by permitting more -quiet, less drafts and a minimum of dust. Finally, the weather strip is -a good investment and, although not intrinsically a thing of beauty, is -a thing of duty and lasts forever. - -But remember weather strips are easy to make--cheap ones. There are many -mushroomic dealers--born to-day and dead to-morrow. Beware of them and -buy the best. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV - -BEAUTY AND THE BATH - - -Probably no development of the home has mirrored human accomplishment to -such an extent as has the bathroom. We have prided ourselves on our -sanitary bathrooms; on the devices for comfort and idyllic perfection in -this, the smallest, yet the most important room in the home. We have -developed it to such a point that in new homes everyone has a bathroom -to himself with comfortable additions to fit the individual whim. - -For a few decades this room has been a replica of hospital efficiency -and that has sufficed. But to-day, the artist in home-making is bringing -the bath room back to the luxury and ease seen in the boudoirs of -ancient days, the days from which we take our beautiful drawing rooms, -chambers and general schemes of decoration. - -This reversion toward bathroom luxury has come about because the -ordinary bathroom has been too cold. It lacked warmth, well-being and -coziness. Then, too, bathrooms are always the smallest rooms in the -home, and for that reason can be more easily dressed in glorious sheen -and kept in harmony with the color scheme and general plan of the home. - - -A FRENCH BATH - -A few years ago no one would have thought of having wood panels in the -bathroom--we proudly felt that we had gone beyond that stage. Yet -to-day in the elaborate combined dressing-bathrooms we find white wood -panels giving a feeling of warmth, together with almost as rich an -effect as when marble itself is used. - -The French bathroom in one great house is as carefully designed as any -room in the house, even more so, for there both utility and beauty are -achieved together. Take, for example, the closet seat which looks like a -comfortable chair with cane back and seat. The seat of course, is hinged -to raise up and down. Here an ugly necessity is beautifully camouflaged -to fit in with the entire scheme of the dressing room, and it gives no -jar to the inhabitant who must, forsooth, spend many hours of careful -toilet making in this superb room. The fixtures here are gold of lovely -design, the woodwork in keeping. The floor is of large tile and spread -with rugs to add warmth and the room is lit, not only by the regular -bathroom fixtures, but also by a crystal center chandelier. - -Some bathrooms even have a corner for the bathtub which transforms it -into a chaise longue. - -In modern bathrooms in luxurious homes we have a reincarnation of the -art of Benvenuto Cellini in the gold wrought metal work. This is made to -harmonize with the general style of the room in which it is placed, and, -though expensive, it is easy to take care of. Besides, when you are -really making a bathroom, what does it matter if it goes into the -thousands when other rooms go into tens of thousands? - -Usually only one or two bathrooms--the master’s and the -mistress’s--reach this height of gorgeousness. The others, however, -conform pretty well to the highly convenient and thoroughly delightful -rooms in the rest of the house. - - -THE EQUIPMENT - -An interesting development, too, is the shape of the bathroom--the -departure from the rectangular. Sometimes it is octagonal, with a -radiating tiled floor and the various functioning fixtures in the far -sectors. One room which we have investigated has in one corner a sunken -marble tub and in the center the radiator. The gold work in this room is -beautiful, but practical, of a design that takes plumbing into the arts. - -The thoroughly equipped woman’s bathroom must have the usual tub, -showers, lavatory, watercloset seat, a closet or two in the walls, a -table, towel rack, brackets for soap and sponge, hooks for hanging -things, scales, rugs, a chair or stool, toilet paper receptacle, mirrors -and tiling for floors and wall. - -In the men’s bathrooms is added the bidet, sometimes a shaving chair and -other shaving necessities such as a special lamp for fine work. To both -these rooms can be added various things, more or less necessary -according to different people’s taste, such as the sitz bath, which is -luxurious for bathing the feet after a hard walk or a game of golf. - -This article in no way intends to be a plumbing article. All it means to -do is tell you what there is new in the development of the bathroom and -leave the choice to you. See Chapter XV on plumbing where we have taken -up the necessities of plumbing fixtures. All you need to remember here -is to buy your fixtures at the best possible shop and then get the best -plumber obtainable to install them. The installation of all good -plumbing work should be in the beginning, in the plans of the architect, -for it is difficult and quite complicated to put in plumbing -installation after the house is well advanced. There is nothing quite so -important to the successful builder as the early consideration of pipe -requirements. The plumber is equipped with the sanitary code, which, of -course, the architect knows too, and any householder can get one to read -and digest. However, with a licensed plumber, a good architect and a -faithful builder, this is unnecessary. - - -THE BATHTUB - -The most interesting fixture in the bathroom, to Americans and Britons, -at least, is the bathtub. Aside from the kitchen stove, this is the -nucleus about which our content is generated. - -Civilization has been kind enough to leave us two generally used types -of bathtubs--the solid porcelain and the enamel over iron (enamel lined -or porcelain over iron) tub. The tin tub has gone out, the glass tub is -too perilous, and the porcelain or porcelain lined proves about the most -satisfactory when we can’t have marble or old Italian basins for our -bathing. - -Recent advances in methods of manufacture and design have made the -choice between solid porcelain or enamel iron baths a matter of personal -liking as influenced by their fitness for positions assigned to them in -a room. On account of the losses sustained for the manufacture of clay -products, selected grades of porcelain baths are of necessity higher in -cost than the porcelain lined or enameled iron. The porcelain bath is -fine in appearance, but it is not reasonable to expect the same -perfection in shape and uniformity of glaze. This is due to the -difference in methods of manufacture, and allowance should be made for -the irregularities occasioned by the baking of glazed clay products. In -the past when English porcelain baths were being imported it was perhaps -considered distinction to have a solid porcelain bath. With the present -extensive manufacture of these products in this country, this condition -has, of course, changed. The porcelain lined bath is preferred by some -on account of its requiring less hot water to hold the desired -temperature. Against this is the fact that cheap porcelain lined baths -should be avoided. - -There are some points in favor of the enameled tub. It doesn’t absorb so -much heat from the water; hence a hot bath can be obtained in it more -quickly. It is lighter in weight, therefore more easy to install in -frame houses and its plumbing is easier to handle. Furthermore, greater -uniformity can be had in its construction. - -In the tub which is built into the wall, there is a tendency to neglect -proper piping conditions. When installing a solid tub, it is necessary -to build a bulkhead in back of the tub so as to take care of the waste -pipe which should be available to the plumber as it often needs a new -washer. Or it must be built against a closet wall so that the pipes are -easy to get at, or against a hall wall or some stable place. - - -VALVES - -There are myriads of styles of faucets, vents and outlets used to-day in -tubs. - -It was at first thought advisable to have the inlet as near the floor of -the tub as possible in order to make the pour of the water practically -soundless after the first inch or two came in. This is about the only -advantage of this arrangement. It is far better to have the inlet higher -up, either on top of the wall of the tub, or even in the wall above the -tub. If it is in the wall of the room it is impossible to hit your back -while bathing; and you may have a shampoo nozzle attached; or draw water -from it whether you are in the tub or not, and when necessary, fill a -pail or dish. There is more noise when the water is running into the -tub, but what of it? If you have a good door on your room, that will -silence the sound. - -With the low inlet, there is a remote danger of drawing in through the -pipe dirty water from the apartment above if some one is bathing in the -tub which is a twin to yours. It is quite possible for this to happen -unless the plumbing system is very well contrived. - -You can have a hot water and a cold water faucet or one faucet from -which both hot and cold come. This is a matter of taste. More often -there are two, but many people like one, so that there can be a mixture -of water, giving a comfortable temperature. - -Tubs, of necessity, have to be placed in many ways. When in recesses or -in a corner, the valves, etc. can be placed at one end. When against a -wall, the piping can be placed above the bath in the wall. This method -often lends a luxurious air to a room and has been utilized in the most -elaborate ones. - - -THE SHOWER BATH - -Nearly every modern bath has a shower of some description. - -The difficulty with the shower is the splashiness of it. The first -protective device was a cloth on a bracket. This is still used to a -great extent, but the ideal arrangement is to have the shower in a -closet designed for it, opening into the room. This closet may be of -glass, marble, or tile, with a cloth curtain or a door to match the -material of which the section is built. The door should be as small as -possible. Twenty inches is quite large enough. The smaller the opening, -the less chance for the escape of water. Besides, a large door is a -nuisance to clean. - -When the compartment is used there can be, besides the ordinary head -bath, a needle bath. This may consist of from eight to twelve nozzles -pointing in from the four corners of the compartment, or it may be a -series of apertures in metal pipes hung around the inside of the -compartment. When the separate compartment for the shower is not -desired, you may find a substitute for the sheet in the arrangement seen -in the Warburg bathroom--plate glass leaves. The glass sheets are -practical and not cumbersome. Nevertheless, they involve more cleaning, -and in the average home this must be considered to-day. - - -MIXING THE WATER - -There are various propositions on the market to mix the water in the -shower so that it can not scald the bather. One manufacturer offers a -little toe pipe, with which to test the temperature of the water before -starting the bath. These things are more or less desirable and -dependable but are not at all necessary. - -It is best to have the valves at the entrance as you walk into the -shower, so that your arm may not be under the flow when it begins. If -the piping is well done and the valves work, the mixture of hot and cold -water can be tempered sufficiently to be safe and comfortable. Here, as -well as in every other department of purchasing, you are told a lot of -things, and if inexperienced, you may be horribly taken in, and led to -buy a lot of unnecessary things, which though good in themselves, are -quite dispensable. - -The shower bath compartment must, of course, be large enough to permit -the bather to stand inside without having to be all the time under the -shower. This is an important point. Glass doors are not necessary either -for a tiled or for a marble compartment. A light weight curtain is good, -with the smallest possible entrance. This obviates the cleaning of the -door. - -Tiled floors and floors of honed marble are better for shower receptors -than are the porcelain ones. They fit into the building problem better, -can be made in any size and are less slippery. Be very careful in -selecting the plumber who puts in your shower, because unless the drain -and curb are absolutely right you will be exposed to the danger of -flooding the room and the partitions of the house. - - -LAVATORIES AND TABLES - -The styles of these are legion. The sizes are so well standardized that -unless one wants them made according to some bizarre pattern it is not -necessary to give dimensions. The usual length is about 33″. This is -ample and graceful. The 54″ takes more space than most bathrooms can -give up to the lavatory, and makes quite unnecessary bulk. The 33″ -lavatory--and any smaller size--can be made of vitrified china, which is -handsomer and less absorbent than the solid porcelain lavatory. The -vitrified china is fired, and therefore it is difficult to make in large -pieces. - -Lavatories may be made for corners, or straight walls. They may have two -legs, or a center pedestal or four legs, or they may be simply hung on -brackets. Two legs, however, is the usual style, although four makes a -very luxurious looking table. The legs can be had in nickel, glass, -brass or in the handsomest types of gold, with carving or some other -kind of design. - -There has been a reversion, too, in the lavatory. The new style is to -make them of imported marble, cut in one piece. With these the gold leg -is suitable, also glass which looks well and is most satisfactory, and -is easy to clean. Soft American marble is absorptive and stains easily, -so when you use marble, get the imported if possible. Another point -should be noted in buying the lavatory,--have enough space on it so -that it can hold a glass; otherwise extra cost will accrue from breakage -and ruined nerves. - -In addition to the lavatory, as we have said, is the bidet, and the -dressing table. The latter is sometimes made of glass on gold, nickel or -brass standards, but it is oftener made of vitrified porcelain on four -legs. - -These regal appointments are given to show how some people live. - - -FAUCETS - -The faucets on tubs, lavatories, bidet, shower, etc., require a great -deal of care, since they must be cleaned so often. Various materials -have been used, such as cut glass, porcelain and nickel, porcelain-like -enamel, brass, silver, gold, etc. For a very rich room, gold and cut -glass, or the gold alone is beautiful. But for most rooms the porcelain -and nickel faucets are the very best and demand the least care. -All-white enamel is not durable and is hard to take care of properly. - -It is very much better to have one faucet through which both hot and -cold water can flow. The faucet should have an overhang of at least 1″ -from the side of the lavatory, so that it will be possible to get a -glass under it for filling or your hand under for washing, thus -obviating the necessity of filling a basin every time you want to rinse -your hands. There are fancy faucets which do not meet these -requirements, but avoid them. - -Faucets which only flow when held are a curse and should only be used in -public places where the water tax is high. - -What you must look out for in the floor tile is that it be as little -slippery as possible. Therefore do not get a glazed tile. More and more -floors are being tiled in colors, to match the home scheme. Also, the -dull tile obviates the squeak occasioned by the shoes touching it. This -is a minor point, but one worthy of notice. - -Walls can be tiled to any height desired. In the average room the tile -is carried only 4′ 6″ up except at the point where the shower is -installed. There it should be carried up 7′. - - -THE CLOSET - -The syphon type is, of course, the best obtainable. Many closets are -sold especially from catalog and by mail, as absolutely silent. Never, -if you can help it, buy anything of this sort from a photograph. No -closet can be absolutely silent. If there is any flow at all, complete -silence would be impossible. A minimum of noise is the best that can be -achieved, and the best makers have closets of this sort. - -The bowls are generally of porcelain, and the best ones are of vitrified -china (really porcelain), which is non-absorbent and quite the thing for -this use because of the freedom from discoloration. - -For general use, the less wood around the seat, the better. - -The tank as a flushing medium is still about the best thing to use. -There are on the market various flush valve types, some of which operate -with a foot button on the floor or with a hand lever on the right side -of the closet. These may be good in some locations, but neither the -ordinary plumber nor the man in the house can repair them in an -emergency. The piping in the valve type of flusher requires careful -arrangement to avoid trouble. - -Sometimes it is rather convenient to have the closet in a doored recess -opening into the room and available from the hall as well. This is -especially to the point when there are few bathrooms in the house. - - -INCIDENTAL FITTINGS - -Chairs and stools are usually in white enamel or in fancy rooms are made -to match the general style which prevails in the decoration. - -The question of closets in the bathroom is entirely dependent upon -individual taste. You can have the wall and mirror finished type, or the -long door regular closet, or a combination of these, with or without -full length mirror. In some rooms a glass shelved linen closet is found -to be a real convenience. - -The soap racks, etc., have lately become recessed in walls. This system -is not popular, however, because, although useful and economical for -hotel or institutional use, it adds no charm to the fine bathroom. -Rather, it detracts from its dignity. - -A nice way to have scales in a bathroom is to have the dial encased in -the wall, and the tray on which one stands, sunk into the floor. This -arrangement economizes space and is very welcome to fastidious people. - -Plan the bathroom of your house early. Talk with your architect. Insist -upon the best and get it. Your bathroom need consist of very few things, -in the last analysis, and the wisest plan is to get the best. The cost -will be from $250 upwards, for fixtures. However, it is wisest to buy -the best you can afford so that a replacement cost is obviated. There -must be no skimping of plumbing work, because that would be a menace to -both health and wealth, and the plumbing costs no more for good material -than for bad. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV - -THE WINTER OF YOUR CONTENT - - -Hot or tempered air is the theme--how the air in our rooms is kept -pleasant in cold weather and not too hot--this is the duty of the -heating plant. - -Furthermore, beyond the duty of the heating plant, it has been the great -civilizing influence in the life of man. Wherever the heating plant has -gone, there has man been able to regulate his work, play and goings and -comings. In this way health has been better maintained and more -regularly in work, therefore, continuous endeavor which, of course, -spells advance and civilization. - -Not wishing to deprive heating engineers of their profession we shall -not drag you through tortuous technical pipes and valves, but simply -tell you what you must demand in a heating installation.--Here, unless -you are properly equipped you will add to the junk pile in quantity and -therefore waste your money by the wholesale. - -First: you must decide whether you really want _hot air_ or furnace -heating. In this case the furnace heats the air and it rises through a -register in the floor or wall of your room. According to J. Byers -Holbrook, the distinguished heating engineer, this sort of heating -tarnishes your silver, your bookbindings crack and your lungs are made -either immune to poison or function in spite of the “rich air” reaching -them. - -In this place it is wise to mention the pipeless heating system which is -hot air sent from the furnace to one central vent or register which is -supposed to heat the whole house. It can be used only for small houses. -It is very cheap in comparison to other systems, but it is unsafe. (See -the safer method further along in this chapter under “Bungalows.”) It is -unsafe; for example: If there be illness in one room it has to be open -to be heated therefore disease will be spread. Furthermore rooms that -are closed will get no heat, as the door must be open to receive the hot -air. - -Second: there is steam heat. This is an excellent system well adapted to -residences and buildings, hotels, institutions, business houses, etc. - -Third: Vacuum and Vapor, the steam circulates through the system at -practically atmospheric or greatly reduced pressure. Vapor heating is -used in residences, vacuum heating is used mostly in large buildings. - -Fourth: Hot Water, which is probably best for your purposes. And with -these deterring and encouraging words we will launch directly into what -you should know before installing a hot water heating plant. - - -THE HEATING ENGINEER - -There is such an “animal” as the heating engineer. He it is who can tell -you to an iota how much heating surface you have in your home to be -heated. He it is who can subtract and add footage and finally tell you -whether you must heat 4400 feet or 3000 feet. When you know this, of -course, you can more readily order the boiler which is best adapted to -heat such a surface. - -For example, suppose you had a conservatory in one end of a large -room--your heating engineer could tell you--due to the glass -surface--how much more heat was required for this room, even had you no -flowers for your conservatory. Glass windows in a shop or in any room -add to the heat units required. - -Computing heating area is not easy--because the shapes of rooms, kinds -and varieties and areas of walls and door openings come into the -problem, to say naught of the badly fitted windows and doors permitting -draughts, etc. So you see the heating and ventilating engineer has a job -that the amateur or even the steam fitter knows not of. (See Chapter -XXXIII). - -Usually the householder isn’t asked about her heating plant at all. The -contractor, architect and builder fix it all up. But--we don’t hold with -this. You have to live with your heating plant, they do not--and it’s -pretty much on your head that discomfort falls. Were we building we -would be quite intimate with the heating end of life, in fact take a -heated and intensely feverish interest in it. Therefore, after your -plans, etc. are hatched, call on a heating engineer for a few -suggestions, and then go to your contractor and see from whom he is to -buy your boiler and what type. Then tell him you require certain things -in your boiler which we have listed “here below” for your winter of -content. - - -PRINCIPAL OF HEATING - -Steam heat is, of course, heating by means of circulating steam through -pipes to radiators. This is affected by a one pipe system sometimes, or -a two pipe. The steam ascending from the boiler in one pipe and -condensing into water falls back into boiler in same pipe. In the two -system arrangement the steam ascends in one and returns in the other. -The one pipe system, of course, is cheaper but takes skill in setting, -as the pitch of it (the angle) must be perfection. In the radiators the -steam condenses and returns in separate pipes in the two pipe system. - -Hot water heating is the circulation of hot water through pipes to -radiators. The heated water being lighter rises and as it cools in -giving off kind heat to you, it falls back again into the boiler where -it is again heated and takes another “rise” and so it circulates through -its system. Therefore, in all heating systems there are two main -divisions: the generation part of boiler and the circulation part of -piping throughout the house. Both parts must be perfect to insure -perfection of heating. The first part dependent on many factors, the -second on a few more. In the hot water system an expansion tank is -always placed at the top of the house in order that the overflow can be -taken care of. - - -BOILER PURCHASE - - 1. Swiftly speaking--the boiler must make every pound of coal do its - best, it should respond rapidly to climatic changes, it must be easily - fueled, shaken, regulated, cleaned, free from repairs, rust, leaks - water heat or gas and it must be easily set up in room for its use. - (All good boiler makers send you “coal information.”) - - Economy in fuel and labor. - - Save coal yes? But economy in coal means getting out of every pound - the maximum. So when you buy coal ask what its fuel value is? It ought - to be about 12,500 to 14,500 B. T. U.--that is, it takes to raise 100 - pounds of water 1 degree Fahrenheit, 100 British Thermal units of - heat. B. T. U. is the way to measure heat units as 7 yards of satin is - the way you measure goods for a dress. The best type of boiler for the - home is the sectional, cast-iron type. In this the water is run - through tubes and presents a large number of surfaces of water to the - heat. - - You must demand a boiler amply large and of the best type of - tubular--where heating is most rapid, and direct in order to save - fuel, in order too, that all the heat generated goes to heating the - house, not in warming the flue or chimney. - - 2. Fuel portion. These must be _deep_ to insure enough coal at least - for 8 hours of heat. So that in the morning your house will be warm - and some coal left in to be joined in lawful heating to the next - supply--leaving no interim of coolness which wastes the coal and - supplies pneumonia. It takes more coal to reheat completely than to - add heat to a heated mass of coal. - - 3. Boiler capacity. Find out how your boiler is rated. If its capacity - only assures you 6 hours of heating; you must not expect it to do 8 or - 10. Only in the best--the very best makes, do the ratings have much - weight. Experience counts. You can tell approximately. But buy the - boiler you don’t have to force. For forcing a boiler adds to your coal - bill. Your boiler capacity must be a little _beyond_ what you actually - need. 70 degrees in zero weather is the standard. A strong - “Coal-ition” government is here necessary! - - 4. Rapid water heating essential.-- - - Water-ways thin enough to heat water rapidly. Quality and position of - heating surface must not allow for waste of heat. 65% of heating - surface should be in direct contact with heat, 35% in flue surface. - Response to your dampers will show you if you have 65% of your heating - surface in direct contact with flame! Go and see the best hot water - boiler in your vicinity--before you buy consult your engineer and ask - about others. - - 5. Operating must be easy “as pie.” Grates should be easily pivoted - and balanced. Arrangement must prevent all accidental dumpings of fuel - in fire pot. Coal so used as to not disappear through grate. One - boiler employs a damper rod running to the front which enables the - caretaker to open and close the smoke damper rapidly when building and - this prevents gas and smoke leakage when door is open. Such a device - as this makes a floor room in a cellar feasible. The boilers of some - companies are so beautifully contrived and finished that they are no - worse than a talking machine or upright piano in a play room. In fact - better looking! - - Feed doors should be wide mouthed enough to put in easily the various - “meal time” supplies. - - The ash pits must be big enough to hold ashes away from the grates. - - 6. Sectional construction desirable.-- - - These sections make it possible to enlarge a boiler; (2) to move it - into a house built completely without tearing down the house, and - obviates its sitting around in a house which is being built, a prey to - all sorts of bad treatment; (3) can be taken through any cellar door; - (4) can easily be taken apart. - - 7. Must be easily cleaned.-- - - All surfaces must be available, fire and flue parts largely self - cleaning. The surfaces can be so made that soot peels off. Flat - surfaces must be easily reached for quick cleaning, ¹⁄₄ inch soot - deposit will demand 50% more coal. So get an easily cleaned boiler or - no one will clean it at all! - - Boilers should have conveniently placed doors into which cleaners can - have access. If cleaning is easy it will be done, otherwise it will - not. We made this point too, with refrigerators, etc. - - 8. All connections must be water tight, steam tight, gas tight. There - should be no packed or gasket joints made of rubber, asbestos, paper - or other washers in connecting joints, etc. This is very important. - Re-packing should never be necessary with _your_ boiler--the longer it - is used the tighter the sections, etc., and yet they are easily taken - apart at any moment. The nipples or valves must be easily closed and - everlastingly tight, yet easily opened. - - 9. The steam boiler for steam heat; the water boiler for water - heating. No straddlers must be used. - - 10. The best boiler is of cast-iron. It will outlast the building; - will not rust or pit. It is so built as never to need repair and it - doesn’t ever seem to wear out. - - This is an investment--other kinds of boilers are finally permitted to - add a value to the junk pile by rusting, pitting, and other useless - decadences. - - 11. No danger in a boiler where the fire chamber is entirely - surrounded by water and steam surfaces; and when the boiler stands low - and therefore well away from the joists and woodwork. Boilers are - generally tested for 80 pounds pressure, but to operate them 2 pounds - ought to be enough, though 1 to 5 is the usual bill-of-fare. - - Steam boilers should have a relief valve--when pressure builds up to - 10 or 11 pounds. - - 12. Should be few outside fixings--should be able to be installed - without digging a pit. This, by the way, would be a good way of - starting your chat with the regal contractor, “I want a simple, fine - boiler, for which no pits must be dug, or brick enclosures.” The best - boilers only require a brick base, for obvious reasons. There should - be no alterations of building necessary, because the sectional boiler - like the sectional bookcase is made to fit in anywhere. Asbestos - covering of boiler often prevents waste of heat in the cellar. - - 13. Thermostatic valves come with some boilers to cut off - automatically and “set on” heat. This conserves fuel. (See section on - heat control.) - - -PIPING - -The piping from boilers to radiators has to be done carefully. The best -steam fitter is none too good. The grade or pitch of the pipes etc., the -area of surface, the diameter _et al_ must be adapted to area to be -heated and to the system employed--all of course, is too technical for -your needs here. Only you must require care to be used here and let your -contractor know you’re “on.” - - -THE GAS BOILER - -In this boiler you get maximum comfort and maximum heat. No coal, no -ashes, no bother, little cash. But this must be from the best makers. It -is usually more costly to operate--but--! - - -WATER BACKS - -Boiler makers in outstanding manufacturers make excellent water heaters -in which water for laundry etc. is heated by heat which would otherwise -be unused. - - -RADIATORS - -Radiators are the translators! They are like the English writers who -translate the Russian novel. The radiator alone tells us whether our hot -water in the boiler is being translated into heat for our comfort. - -They are either curses or benefits! But they are usually the eye-sore of -the home. - -In short they are a series of tubing which present a maximum of heat -radiator surface. They have valves, for controlling the heat. - -If you buy the right valves, your radiators will not leak, water-hammer -or bang, or flood. - -An air valve must let out the _air_ to permit the steam or water to fill -the pipes. If it doesn’t do this, it is of no use. Varying steam -pressure, flooded radiators, forced firing of boiler (which you must -avoid by having a boiler with large enough capacity) are overcome with -correct valves. The right valve saves fuel, because unnecessary amount -of pressure is not needed to force out air, the right valve copes with -dirt and dust, prevents floods, requires no adjustment. Air and steam -units cannot mix, the valve releases the air. The valves must be all -metal five years guarantee, and no adjustment necessary. - -The radiator which is recessed in the wall has the advantage of being -less visible, but unless you employ heat reflectors you will lose a lot -of heat--and even with them you lose some. - -Some manufacturers are doing their super-level best to build radiators -which are lovely to the eye. But, again like the upright piano, they can -be made but comparatively beautiful. Gratings can veil them but are -gratings lovely? Then too, there is a loss of heat. - -One radiator company has good-looking radiators which are very -successful. Their series of columns make them able to resist high -internal pressure. The internal area of the tubes in relation to the -heating surface has been reduced to ¹⁄₄ of that run in general use. This -not only greatly increases the pressure resistance but in reducing the -internal area, the water or steam contents are likewise reduced. - -There is on the market a covering for radiators which is very -satisfactory. - -There is more heating surface in this type too. - -The water content is ¹⁄₂ the content of other radiators. This means -quick and positive venting for steam, vapor, or hot water installations -and provides rapid circulation, causes radiator to heat up more rapidly. - - -AIR VENT (STEAM HEATING) - -The air vent on each main, allows the air to escape so that the heat -arrives more rapidly to radiator. This of course, saves fuel. - - -HEAT CONTROLS - -To take the heating of your home out of the area of dreams and out of -the expensive realm of “feeling,” some sort of heat regulating device is -recommended. It is foolish to say “Do you think it is warm enough?” to a -group in the room. For no two will think alike! - -Apart from this, the perfect thermostat not only tells you at what -temperature is your house, not only keeps the house evenly heated, but -in doing this saves you fuel, expense, illness and what not. - -By simple mechanical means the thermostat opens and closes the door of -the furnace as the heat needs to be lowered or increased. In this way if -less heat is required, the door closes, and less coal is used etc. - -Thereby another simple yet ingenious device. The thermostat can be set -to do these things at any _time_ you wish it to be done. If you want the -damper opened at 7 A.M., so it will be done--and you don’t need to go in -your pajamas boiler-ward! - -There are two or three excellent thermostats on the market and many not -so good. Be sure you consult before investing. The best thermostats have -no corroding, or wearing parts, look well and prove themselves -thoroughbreds. - -The thermostat prevents cooling off of the boiler which means starting a -fire over again--which means wasted fuel. All means must be taken -against such waste. Much coal is lost in uneven combustion, some coal -being entirely wasted. The thermostat prevents this, by ordering a -steady, definite consumption of coal. - -It takes far less coal to heat hot or tempered return water than to heat -cold--the thermostat prevents the cooling down entirely. - - -THE BUNGALOW OWNER - -There is now on the market a hot water boiler which is compact and -good-looking which if put into a cellarless house heats it with the -efficiency of the subterranean boiler! This is done through pipes and -radiators and with a maximum comfort and a minimum care. - - -HEAT’S INFLUENCE - -It is usable in schools, cottages, etc., and bids well to civilize -sections of the world which have starved for heat and consequently have -been stunted in physical and mental growth. This boiler is the Ford of -boilers, giving unto every man the right to be comfortable wherever he -lives! - - -HEATING WITH OIL - -Oil heaters for special rooms are made by the principal oilstove makers. -These give good results but of course are not comparable to hot water -heating, steam etc., plants. - - -ELECTRIC HEATING - -As yet heating a house by electricity is too expensive and isn’t done -except by small comforting heaters which heat one room at a time. These -are very clean and efficient and not expensive. - - -HOT WATER HEATING - -The problem of heating water is of serious dimensions for life without -hot water to civilized man and woman is a poor struggle. - -At present there are on the market, distinct from the usual hot water -plant installed in properly built and equipped houses--many different -and efficient heaters and boilers. - -In houses where there is no hot water central plant there can be bought -for moderate rates an electric heater which is attached to the faucet in -tub or wash basin or sink and through its system of copper coils over -which the water flows through, you can get hot water immediately! This -needs be but connected to your electric light circuit--outlet or -fixture. - -Then there are large circulation water heaters of electrical contriving -which of course has to be separately connected--as the (Wattage) heating -unit is rated at about 660 watts! These heaters are of excellent -construction, but in most vicinities as yet--electricity is too -expensive to use thus. This is controlled from any place in the house, -so you need not go down in cellar to start a hot water “anything!” In -the best of these it is possible to turn on more heat or less from -original source by the use of multiple heat switches. - -All conductors must be insulated, these heaters should be easily -installed. There is possible here hot water without ashes, gas fumes, -fire risks--and desired temperature at will! It is a fine hurry device -for the sometimes opened country house. In winter it is a boon. - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of National Electric Water Heater Corp._ - -A METHOD OF HEATING WATER BY MEANS OF A FAUCET ATTACHMENT] - -Then of course there are the little electric emersion heaters. This is a -heating unit which is dropped into the water basin, pitcher, tea-pot or -what not and attached to electric light bulb very quickly heats your -water. - - -GAS - -The gas heater up to date has been most reliable and efficient. - -There are many good gas heaters too on the market, which when you turn -on the water start the fire! These are rapid and have given very good -results. - -There are many “boiler” heated water schemes--the water backs on gas and -coal stoves etc. Then too a very efficient method is using the heat -(over) not used in the sectional boiler for heating the house. This is -effectively used in auxiliary boilers for heating hot water. Some firms -are rightly proud of this contrivance as it is inexpensive, ample and -convenient. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVI - -OUTLETS SAVE YOUR INCOME - - -Let there be light and there was none--is the verdict of many an -estimator who goes over a home after it is built and sees the occupants -laboring to read, sew, game or cook according to their separate desires. - -And so to take the “bull by the horns” and begin with the practical -first--one of the best ways to get proper lighting is to have sufficient -outlets for electricity, portable lamps with oil and enumerable fixtures -with gas. - -This will deal specifically with electric light, yet the general -principals will apply to all other lighting. - - -LIGHTING - -Good lighting can mean good health. Eye strain is often the cause of -depleted systems, indigestion and things that lead to other calamities. -Many a doctor would better analyze a home to see what could afflict the -sufferer than analyze the patient! - -Flickering lights strain the eye, because it cannot adapt itself to the -rapid variations in intensity. So the flickering light must go. Lights -that are too bright hurt the eye, lights that are dim cause strain, all -in turn having disastrous effect on sight and on health--these too must -perish. - -The best sort of lighting, of course, is the diffused light which -without glare is sufficient for reading, etc. Here, though, the -distribution may be so imperfect that the glow is dispiriting and -consequently a light softener in the guise of a lamp shade or frosted -dulled glass helps the situation. - -The indirect lighting system, is popular to-day. When buying this type -you must be sure to get them as dust and bug proof as possible. The -simpler they are the easier to keep clean, of course. - -Money can be saved by having outlets at frequent intervals, so that -lamps can be attached at the point needed, rather than having to light -many lamps at various ridiculous places in a room as contributory -lights. - -Fixtures which have lights set obliquely in them are hard on the eyes, -lights are not meant to shoot light in your face but to supply aid -quickly and politely to the eye. Fixtures should have their globes, in -the perpendicular. - - -HEIGHT OF LIGHTS - -Lights should be high enough only to cast a direct light on the subject -in hand. The reading lamp must help the reader, not impede him. Try over -and over again until it is placed correctly. The shade should be such -that it not only directs and diffuses the light, but softens and subdues -and makes it a pleasant thing to the eye. - -Very often dim lights can be magnified by a reflector. Never, though, -can a reflector actually increase the light, that is to say, the -reflector doesn’t increase the electric power or size of lamps but -simply reflecting more than absorbing, the light gives you its fuller -value. - - -REFLECTION - -You are probably aware that certain colors absorb or reflect in varying -degrees. Usually in the papering of rooms no account is taken at all of -this perfectly honest color vagary. Consequently, a dark room is often -somberly decked in deep chocolate paper and therefore you get something -like 4% reflection whereas in that room white would reflect about 70% -and a wall yellow painted would reflect about 62%, thereby saving the -necessity of just that much more lighting. - -Green reflects about 18%, blue 12%, so you can see here what to do with -certain rooms that should be dimmer or brighter. - -In the same way shades of globes enhance or detract in reflection -capacity. - -Clear glass absorbs about 5-12% of light and cobalt blue about 95%, so -here you see if you have a lamp absorbing 95% of light--that you will -need more lamps than one absorbing but 5%! Think on these things. - - -LIGHT MEASUREMENTS - -The foot candle is the unit of light measurement. A standard candle has -been decided upon and all lighting calculated on this basis. We say we -have 16 candle power lamp that it means it gives light of 16 of these -standard candles. From a 60 watt lamp the candle power obtained from a -tungsten is 56 candle power. A saving in money is had if the tungsten -though more expensive is used. - - -COST OF LIGHT, ELECTRIC - -The amount of electricity taken by a lamp is measured in watts-- - - Watts ÷ 1000 equals Kilowatts - Kilowatts × hours equals Kilowatt hours - Kilowatt hours × rate equals cost. - -(See Chapter I on Electricity.) - -Economy is quite possible here as in burning oil or any thing else. If -your lights are well placed, you need less light, if they have not too -absorbent globes you will also need to use less light, if you have -proper wall tints, etc. You often need fewer lamps. One good lamp in the -right place saves two or three wrongly placed. - -The Tungsten filaments burn brighter and more cheaply than the old -filament of carbon. There is a saving of electricity somewhere around -50% in the use of new filament. - - -THE INCANDESCENT LIGHT - -That brings us to the story of the incandescent lamp-- - -Incandescent means to glow with heat--In short the incandescent light is -one which employs a globe in which the air has been exhausted and in -which a vacuum exists. Before the air has been exhausted a filament of -metal has been affixed through which the current of electricity is -passed. In the resistance of this current the filament glows and gives -the light that you use. - -Don’t take any lamp you can get. Ask for the number of candle power or -watts you want. The lamps to-day are more popularly sold according to -watts rather than candle power. - - -INDIRECT AND DIRECT LIGHTING - -Of course there is a loss every time the light is reflected through a -diffusing medium. In correct direct lighting most of the light is only -reflected once before using point. In indirect lighting it has one more -reflection (at ceiling) causing a loss hardly much less than 25% and -maybe more. The diffusing bowls throw a large part of the light--in -semi-direct lighting--where there is a similar loss and the part of the -light which goes through the bowl is considerably reduced by -absorption. Naturally direct lighting is most efficient. Yet lighting is -a matter of diffusion of light and often the indirect system gives not -only more joy but better illumination with no greater consumption of -power than direct lighting. - -Avoid shallow reflectors not covering filament (or mantle in gas lamps). - -The plain electric glass shades through which the source of light is -plainly seen are practically nil. They absorb more light than a good -reflector and do no good--unless to look a wee bit better than a bare -lamp. Ground glass is a better thing but poor enough. - -Colored shades do absorb light but they are decorative--a combination of -white reflectors and colored shades is often a good trick. - - -SPECIAL ROOM SERVICE - -In lighting rooms remember their special needs. It is very unpleasant to -have a light unshielded by a shade of some sort as the eye rebels -against the sharp concentration of light. - - -DINING ROOM DOMES - -Dining room domes are like mountains of flowers--obstruct the view and -make you hurdle to see a diner opposite to you. They should be hung high -enough not to become obstructive to the view and low enough not to throw -light in your eyes. If this can’t be done, hang it high rather than low -and cover the opening of the dome with a material somewhat alike in -color to the dome. - - -THE BEDROOM - -Have your fixtures on the side walls and plenty of them. Yet in some -bedrooms, there are often three lights used when one properly placed -would be enough! Think of the money outlay! A few outlets in convenient -places will make it easy to use the vibrator, electric pad, shaving -stand etc. - - -THE KITCHEN AND CLOSETS - -Over the sink if necessary a small light can be placed. All dark closets -should have an electric light; which can be switched on from the outside -of the closet. It is a real sanitary measure to say nothing else of the -ancient blind groping in a dark cupboard for these things--which roll -and break in the groping! Blind sport--Electric lights in all closets -are not luxuries now they are nervous prostration preventives! Light is -a detective. Nothing bad can survive in the light! Dirt is revealed, bad -conditions laid bare--hence the light works for good! Closets need -light, shelves as well need light to visualize little corner lurkings! - -A good light in the vestibule is often a perfect chaperon for youth! - -The shaving mug and stand need careful lighting to prevent discomfort -and inadvertent cuts. - -The cellar can be a lonesome spot if not properly lighted. No one will -clean it. A switch upstairs to light the cellar before going below, with -enough other lights will do much to “sell” the cellar as a usable, -cleanable room. - -Flexible lights for desks are great comforts. There are countless -decorative as well as practical desk lamps on the market to-day. - -Although the primary object of lighting is to light, yet the market -to-day has any number of fixtures which seem primarily for artistic -purposes. And we must say that the fixture makers have a long way to go -yet in the sheer beauty field--as have most non-custom made products. - - -ARCHITECTS - -Don’t leave your lighting to your architects. Illuminating engineers are -good but you can even be more illuminating by knowing your own needs and -habits. - -There is no excuse with electricity in not having your lights where you -want them. Buy the right lights to save your health and eyes. - -Talk to your contractor before the house is “let” for building. Here is -the time to talk outlets! - - -IN FINALE - - 1. Clean globes mean more light. Don’t think you don’t have to clean - electric lights. You waste money on electricity with every grain of - dust on your globes. - - 2. Tired eyes often mean too few lights or light placed in wrong - places. - - 3. Remember don’t always blame cook or work for indigestion, it may be - your eyes from bad lighting. - - 4. A bare lamp if it must be used should be above the eye line, always - use a shade. - - 5. Too much is as bad as too little; both strain the eye. - - 6. In low ceilinged rooms use two or three side small lamps rather - than one large one. - - 7. Remember ask for the size lamp you want, don’t just say “I want a - lamp.” - - 8. If you don’t understand lamps, go to a library and read or consult - a good electrician, or go through some one’s home. - - 9. Standard plugs throughout the whole house so that all connections - can be made at any outlet. - - 10. It is wiser to have more rather than too few outlets. - - 11. Switches--remember you can have lights so arranged to snap on and - off in the closets by a switch on the outside. (1) You can have - switches (3 and 4 way switches) that enable you to light the light - upstairs from downstairs and turn it off when you get upstairs and - turn it on again either up or downstairs. (2) Side wall switches--near - doors as you enter; (3) Another switch to turn on all lights in house - at once in case of danger. - - -SOME SUGGESTED NOVELTIES - -There is a “cute” little thing now to be had to prevent you bumping your -shins on a table when leaving the room--a light that when you put it out -stays lit one minute after you pull the chain! - - -CORD DIVIDER - -There is also a device which connects the long electric cord so that you -can easily lengthen or shorten it without calling in an electrician. - - -TINTING - -Lacquers for globes can be bought whereby you can reduce the glare of -the ordinary lamp at will or even color them to suit. - - -PRINCIPLES - -First principle is that diffusion of light is necessary in order to see -the object clearly and pleasantly. (2) Brightness is to be avoided. No -general rule can be given for number of foot candles--different -rooms--whether dark or light in decoration--need different treatment. -Experiment and experience are the only arbiters here. - -Some rules: (1) _Avoid flickering light_--fatigue and nerves result from -flickers. (2) _Use shaded lamps._ More diffused light from a large -source gives better light than from a small. (3) _Don’t judge the light -by the lamp._ The lamp doesn’t give light. The light which comes -directly from the lamp to the eye does no good and may interfere with -the useful light which has gone from the lamp to the surrounding objects -and thence to the eye. - -(4) _Do not face the light._ It is well to have the light from above -over the left shoulder. This plan obviates the shining surfaces of -paper, table tops etc. from interfering with pleasant seeing. In this -way too, you do not see the lamp itself. If you have to shade your book -the light is wrong for _you_. (5) _Avoid brilliant reflection_ of the -lamp. (No matter how brilliant your own reflection may be!) Glossy paper -in books especially for children should be “verboten.” (6) _Keep lamp -away from your work_, your eye likes not to concentrate on concentrated -light. The desk light or factory light lying “away” rather than “next -to” is far better for worker. A special reading lamp is good but is -often pleasanter when used in connection with a soft general lighting. -(7) _Vertical light carrying fixtures_ are best--old ones can be bent to -carry light vertically. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVII - -TIN WARE, RUBBER AND PAPER - - -Tin is one of the oldest metals in the world. The Ancient Greeks and the -Ancient Hebrews made mention of it frequently. - -Before the advent of the Kingly Aluminum and the Queenly Enamels, -agates, granites etc., tin was used extensively in the kitchen, but now -the cooking utensil is very rarely tin and rightly so. - -However, tin still remains a good thing for various things in the home -and is well worth employing in different ways. These ways will interest -you to consider. - -However--firstly--all things made of tin to-day are but steel or iron -dip and coated with tin. - -Tin melts at a comparatively low temperature and is besides affected by -acids. That is why baking, stewing, etc. are not to be done with tin -utensils plus acid food. The dark rings on baked apples cooked in a tin -dish show very plainly what acid and tin do in combination. - -In buying tin the criterion is its weight. It is only wise to buy tin -ware in the best shops, because small, but out of the way hardware shops -can rarely afford to keep on hand the best tinware. - -It should, of course, adhere closely to the lines of all other utensils -in that it must be smoothe without rough globules, without seams, which -might catch food or dust particles to create an aftermath condition -difficult to rectify. - - -CLEANING - -Put tin to be cleaned in hot soda, never more than 5 minutes because the -tin will dissolve somewhat, as the heat and soda meet and though it will -disintegrate the grease it will make the iron or steel base show -through. But with more fine powder like whiting, rinse hot, and dry -while hot. Tin will rust so it is best to dry while “the tin is hot!” - - -JAPAN - -Among the most useful and jaunty things in tin is the so-called Japan -wear which is but painted tin. - -Bread and cake boxes in different colors, with and without shelves, -sliding doors and in varying fasteners to suit your fancy. These are -light and easier to manage than the shiny metallic ones and easier to -clean out than the wooden ones. - - -CAKE CUTTERS - -There is no reason either why you cannot use the less expensive tin cake -cutters in their multitudinous designs. They are keen cutting and light -and very durable. - - -GALVANIZED - -Galvanized wear--is usually steel heated to a special finish of tin. -Some of the things in this material are most useful and necessary--for -example, the refrigerator drain pan, garbage pail and ash can. These are -extra heavy and withstand wear and jouncing. - -For the less elaborate kitchen, the tin muffin pans, funnels and pie -plates are useful yet not as good as other kitchen wear such as the -Aluminum and Enamels. - - -NECESSITIES NOT KNOWN - -The ideal Christmas tree holder which keeps the tree fresh for months on -account of its simple reservoir for water is really something well worth -knowing about. It holds the tree very steady and is japanned in a dull -green. - -For country or suburban homes the out-door incinerator, a perforated -tinned container, permits the burning of rubbish without danger from -blowing cinders; of course, this is not meant to burn fats and animal -refuse. An incinerator (see Chapter XIII) of another order is necessary -for this. - -There is no reason whatever, however, why the copper bottom wash boilers -whose numbers and designs are legion should not be used. As they are -light in weight and durable. - -The galvanized coal scuttle, flour bin--japanned or plain heavy tin, is -not a pariah even yet. - -If you have the “tin,” it is usual for you to buy the better metals. Yet -there are quite legitimate uses for tin. There are some householders who -have tin ware left over from the past. To those, however, we can say -don’t let it worry you; as they die out replace them with better, if you -care to, but be loyal to what you have used if they have served. - -No one recommends tin to-day for cookery when on the market are ideal -cooking utensils, but what we do wish to convey to you in this chapter -is that tin has very legitimate uses. - -For example spice, sugar, coffee etc. canisters in white enamel tin, -brown, black etc. with gold lines. These are not as autocratic as the -blue and white china but they will outlast any such delightful and much -to be desired shelf trousseau. A kitchen in white with white enameled -tin containers is a very pretty thing to contemplate. - -Some of the heavier tin ware is iron or steel dipped in tin, this, of -course, is very resistant and enduring and not particularly cheap. - -Agates, enamels etc. are merely steel and iron covered with layers of -composition that when dry are made up to resist cookery onslaught. - - -ICE-CREAM FREEZERS - -There are two or three very interesting and effective ice cream freezers -made of tin. There is one in fact so built as to need no turning. - - -TRAYS - -Tin trays are invaluable as they come in all sizes and are exceedingly -light. They come plain, japanned and some decorated--but any one with a -sense of paint and form can make an ordinary tin tray a thing of -joy--while for the most part the tin ware houses execrably decorate the -trays! A word to the wise! - - -RUBBER - -The rubber wear that is used in kitchens is not extensive but what is -used is indispensable. - -For preserving, of course, the rubber ring to tightly close certain jars -is a necessity and the best is none too good to buy. Unless you have the -best here you are cheated by breakage. - -Rubber gloves for kitchenette and kitchen use save and prevent breakage, -they also prevent the sink becoming “holey.” For “holey” sinks are -horrible to contemplate! - -Some people like perforated rubber mats on linoleum or tiled floors and -on kitchen hallways and stairs. These wear for a long time. - -A few rubber corks to have on hand in the home often helps you out of a -dilemma of temporary corkage. - -Rubber brushes for sink use in combination with tin are useful and can -be well scoured and kept in condition. - -Rubber gloves for kitchenette and kitchen use save the hands and are -worth their weight in radium. If more women used them, the house work -problem would be less like martyrdom. They preserve the hands, health as -well as beauty, in fact could anything be “handier?” - -Rubber is used for door steps to preserve the door surface and to -prevent noise. It is also used on the tip end of legs of tables and -chairs to preserve floors and rugs and to diminish noise. - -This is about the full list of rubber things for the house except, -perhaps, the rubber heel for maids’ and butlers’ shoes and rubber -stoppers for sinks. - - -PAPER - -The uses of paper in the home are not so many. - -Shelving in the pantry or kitchen can be kept in renewed health with -paper, laces of course. - -The bungalow, or motor trip or picnic can be well supplied with paper -and fiber plates. - -Rather would we warn you against paper uses! such as wrapping up your -ice to preserve it, to spoil food, wrapping up your food stuffs in paper -in refrigerator, greasing muffin pan with paper for which you should use -a brush. - -Sometimes, however, a piece of paper will clean off the top of the stove -very efficiently, yet even here a brush would be better. - -Clean brown paper to absorb French frys (potato) is quite indispensable. - -The paper napkin has made its place even in the homes of wealth. - -Wax paper is a delight to wrap up sandwiches and keep bread stuffs and -cake fresh. - -Paper lining for drawers, of course, is necessary. - -The pretty paper lace doily for under finger bowls, cake and bread, -these are delightfully pretty and save the linen, the laundress and the -laundry list. - - -CHOP PAPERS - -Paper “golf stockings” for chop bones, poultry legs etc. are decorative. - - -CHARLOTTE RUSSE - -Vegetables and charlotte russe are often, too, served in the paper cup. - -Which, by the way reminds me that in large kitchens the paper cup is -indispensable. - -In this place it would be well to say that a pad--a writing pad--should -be in every kitchen for multitudinous listings and memos. No kitchen is -a perfect one that isn’t “padded.” In fact it is a sell if it isn’t! - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVIII - -COME OUT OF THE PARLOR - - -If I were a cook (of course, being a democrat, I aspire to no such -plutocratic eminence, but were I a cook), I should want to have for my -use a number of culinary accessories to make life more rosy, more serene -and even more delightful than it naturally must be. - -If I were even a wife, I should welcome gifts that would make the work I -had to do in the kitchen more saving in time, effort and labor. - -But being neither of these, and therefore, free to roam through -manufactories, laboratories, and shops, I will suggest from the myriads -of fascinating kitchen articles and appliances some that will make -captivating and useful gifts. When you once have made a present of any -of them you will automatically become entablatured in the recipient’s -memory, and maybe you will be saved the expense of many a meal! - -If I were that cook--I would hanker after the ice pick that doesn’t -slide--the spring pick (25 to 35 cents). You just jab it into the ice -and slide the handle up and down, and you waste neither ice, food, nor -temper in the process. It is a gem of comfort. - - -THE SMALL EQUIPMENT - -The cream bag, with all the alluring little tubes for making fascinating -designs on the birthday or Christmas cake, saves the cook time in -rigging up paper tubes for spreading cream and sugar. - -If it were only to obviate the unpatriotic cry against our thick bread -in comparison to the British gossamer slice, it would ease one’s life to -have some one of the bread slicers on the American market which cost -very little. (About $4.[1]) - - [1] All prices here are merely approximate. By the time this book - reaches you the prices will be much lower, we hope! - -Nothing saves more energy than the food chopper (from $2 up), the -nut-cracker (from $1 up), the cherry stoner (75 cents up). These -processes of stoning, chopping and taking out nuts whole are all tedious -by hand. - -The coffee mill, too, is a pleasure, the kind that has the glass top to -keep you cognizant of how much work there is before you. Some of these -screw on the wall and are about $1.35 and upwards. The beef press ($1.50 -to $5) (See Chapter on electric mixing units) for invalid or baby is -also a boon. - -The prices of all these things are very low as prices go these days. In -some of the realms, however, the prices vary so from day to day that one -is afraid to mention them. But, whatever the prices are, the devices are -worth the cost in helpfulness and service. And, strange as it may seem, -the kitchen denizen, imperial though she be, rarely dowers herself with -the time-saving, step-saving apparatus. - - -SCALES AND SHARPENERS - -Kitchen scales, good ones, are really indispensable to the careful -housekeeper. The balance type is the most accurate and costs from $8 up. -Very often you can test your purchases and if under weight you can scold -the grocer (what fun!) and if over weight--but what’s the good of dream -stuff here? The hanging spring scale is accurate and costs from $2.50 -up. (See Chapter XL on Measures.) - -“Oh, for a sharp knife!” A feminine and hopeless cry often ... but the -carborundum knife sharpener (30 to 50 cents) would obviate the -humiliation and let the lady cut a big swathe with her menfolk--if they -found sharp carving knives set before them. There are many types of -sharpeners on the market. Some of them, of course, are quite expensive. -Buy the best in this case as in every other case. The best is an -investment; less than the best is an expenditure. - -Nothing can cut down the antagonism between time and service like -vegetable slicers. They slice any vegetable and cost about $2.50 up. Do -you realize what such a donation could mean? Could any little -fluffy-ruffle pincushion mean so much to anybody, be she cook or pauper? - -If you want to give something in the realm of a card for Easter, -Christmas or New Year, or some trifle in the case of another sort of -anniversary, why not send some of the silencers for kitchen chair and -table legs at 10 cents a set? Or the permanent gas lighters for 25 -cents. They are convenient and amusing. - -Owning a rotary fruit parer ($1.50 up) saves energy and caters to your -sense of form, as the fruit can be served unangular and with little -waste, and besides, the cook’s imperial temper is not stirred. - - -TABLE BELLS AND GRIDDLES - -Table bells of sweet tintinabulation save the nerves. At any rate there -is poetry in such a gift, and one can spend from $1.50 to any price at -all on these romantic things, as they also come in the precious metals. - -There may be many domiologists with doubts about cake, bread and -mayonnaise mixers, but if you ever gave any of these articles to a -household, you would go down into history as a benefactor. I wonder -often why so many of us forget that such gifts are really gold mines. - -No one likes to do unnecessary cleaning and scraping of utensils, so the -aluminum waffle and griddle are presents of unusual pleasure-giving -potentialities. The prices here are prone to fluctuation but there are -always sizes to be had around $4.50. The electric ones cost three or -four times as much. - -If you would give a regal gift to the Monarch of Culinaria, the kitchen -cabinet is the thing. It is compact little kitchen “with everything in -it but the kitchen stove,” and fills the need of the worker in the badly -planned and equipped city kitchen and the unplanned kitchen out of town. - -Although not exclusively a kitchen gift, the vacuum cleaner cannot be -excelled as a present. Once bestowed you are looked upon as a fairy -god-parent. Why not give one for a wedding present sometime? The -fireless cookers and refrigerators would come under this classification -too, but they vary in price too much to record here. - - -ELECTRIC DISHWASHERS AND STOVES - -If there be a regent and not a cook in your kitchen, she will welcome -with tired arms the electric dishwasher, the boon to the woman doing her -own work. It costs about $150. or thereabouts and makes housework a game -rather than drudgery. Haven’t you often heard the young wife say: “I -wouldn’t mind house work at all if it weren’t for the dishwashing.” - -Then there is the magic--yes, magic--electric stove family! There isn’t -time enough left to tell of some of their wonder workings. If you gave -one of these (costing about $180), you would be giving at the same time -money, time-to-herself, and the rest cure. Some of these stoves -automatically cook and stop their cooking while you are out or sleeping, -save money because they make cheap cuts of meat taste like expensive -cuts, act as fireless cookers and refrigerators and ... I will leave the -rest to your investigation. - -Of course, there are the electric laundry appliances, casseroles, -ice-cream freezers which must be turned and which must not be turned, -convenient egg-heaters, buffers, kitchenette articles, and countless -other things in the line of percolators, etc., which are obvious and -need no mind-jerking from us. - -All these things are gifts of value, tremendous helps to the cook and -ought to be boons to the seeker for something to give. - -Be elastic! Come out of the parlor and go into the kitchen for a new -field of giving. - -Gifts raise the value of things and the value of culinary pursuits need -raising. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIX - -LATEST INVENTIONS - - -There may be nothing new under the sun but there is always something -inviting under the roofs of our manufactories, in these labor, time and -energy sparing days. Not to keep abreast of the news is perhaps to lose -at least a week out of your year in time and a few tons of actual -effort. - -There is an ideal mixer on the market which attacks and synthesizes a -mayonnaise, cream or eggs, mixes cakes, makes bread of its ingredients, -and all in all can almost be hitched to the stars and change the -rotations of the solar system, extravagantly speaking. It is modeled on -a giant mixer formerly used in hotels and soda fountains but now adapted -to home use. Furthermore, it is prepared to annihilate meats, nuts and -fruits. It is a complete power unit and worked by electricity. - -_Multum in parvo_--here you have it. A little washing machine that can -be a sweet pal of the portable typewriter--less its weight, not -requiring, though, either ink or hand labor. This tiny wooden washer is -placed under a water faucet and the weakest stream of water revolves its -little cylinder so that you can wash two or three shirtwaists and six -hankies and seven towels in one operation while you sit and think how -lucky you are. Fancy this little fairy in a hotel room, in the country, -where the wash ladies are obsolete and your nurse won’t wash--or where -you don’t want to trust your trousseau to any laundry resident in your -rural haunt. And it is invaluable for the baby’s wash--because the baby -is no respecter of labor and needs much rehabilitation. - -It fits on any wash-stand, is simply made, easily cleaned _très bon -marché_. So your parlor, bedroom and bathroom need not be a limitation -to your wardrobe’s perfection. - -How many times have you toasted bread at your morning meal--the meal at -which most of us are poorly adjusted? How many times have we nearly (?) -sworn because your magic electric toaster only did the trick on one side -of the bread? Now--there has been born a toaster which, when one side of -the toast is done, “turns the other cheek” (by a pat of one’s finger on -a lever) and in most traditionally ethical fashion, so that you have -self-turned toast, well cooked, waiting for you--disgruntled or radiant. -It’s a nice thought--to have toast without blackened fingers or -disintegrated character. - -Every sick room at some time or another needs, besides air, a gentle -deodorant. In accordance with electricity’s forward march an electric -incense burner can be bought which though not in the traditional mode is -very much to the manner of to-day. - -Whether this will appeal to our Greenwich Village friends who espouse -with all their modernity archaic methods, we cannot tell--yet would we -suggest this device whether they be incensed or not. - -Soon there will be on the market a wee electric washette--a portable six -shirtwaist or twelve soxer which washes clothes and will spare the fare -on silk hose or lingerie. Most city and country dwellings have -electricity and in a few months this vital little machine will be yours -for the paying. - -Bathrooms to-day without the shower would be like the kiss to the -strange maiden who liked it not, were her lover unmustachioed. In order -to have a faultless shower--for they are often built haphazardly so that -they leak, spatter, burn and scatter--a standardized shower has been put -on the market which, when ordered by the architect, can be put into any -bathroom. It can be in curved or square design and in almost any size. -After installation it can be finished in paint, marble, tile or in -whatever uniform your bathroom mobilized. The fixtures are the most -modern, completely covering the bather with sprays enticing and -affording thorough refreshment. - -Practically speaking, the electric washing machine in which boiling -water is put is a perfect instrument. Yet we can see some instances -where the self-gas-heated electric washer might be a great convenience -if the clothes are not permitted to have the dirt boiled in and the gas -jets left burning beneath them. To-day, to meet the demand of a -self-heating washer, there are a few being put on the market. - -Along the line of washing machines is a “filler” which acts promptly and -swiftly so that the washing machine is filled and emptied of water with -a minimum effort. There are two or three of these assistants on the -market--two of which are good but one of which we think better. They can -be tried before purchasing. - - -ELECTRIFIED TABLES - -Furniture is furniture. That seems rational--it has beauty but not life. -Yet in the Middle Edison Period in which we live, furniture arterially -supplied with electric current has come to pass. Table tipping has gone -out, but electrified tea tables have come in. There is no limit to what -the electrified tea table might not be, or might not contain. Tea, -toast, lectures or music fill its usual shallow depths. But now a -veritable companion to man--not only a pal but an advisor. Yet you must -be careful lest the amiable invention ousts the charm of tea itself. But -all new inventions when they seem the most perilous are the most useful. -Think of the charms of the electrified toilet table--shaving-water hot, -curling irons ready, lights in perfect range. It is beyond imagination -lovely. Then think of the electrified bed! It is too--Enough! - -Overlooking the fact that an ironing board and iron are prohibited in -many hotels, they seem to arrive in other guises. A folding contraption -delightfully like a little box has been made and charmingly cretonned, -which is itself the telescopic board and inside of whose folds repose -the leveling iron, electric connections, etc. - - -SLEEPING ACCOMODATIONS - -Gunpowder can be made out of the air, but that isn’t what we are looking -for--after all it’s a constructive use we give it--breathing and health. -Of late, people are longing for health--see the new religious sects. So -the home longs for it, and devices are continually being made to give -the home more air and better. An automatic device to make rooms breathe -is now a practical thing. It looks like a little box of copper wire on -one side, open on the other and fitted with little shutters so that the -warm air escapes and the cool fresh air is imprisoned in the room. It is -put on outside the window sash and without draft you breathe clean, -fresh morning air. - -You can always supply a bed to the new-comer, or make your living room -into a more livable and sleeping one by the use of the new beds housed -behind a small door in the wall which swing easily to position at night. -The small door can be near the porch, so the sleeping porch by day can -be free of bedding and be an upper porch only. Furthermore, if the door -be placed rightly, the bed can be swung to the porch or to the room. -Rainy nights or cyclonic you could sleep indoors. It is not a folding -bed with that device’s many drawbacks. Of course this is more -practically installed when the house is built, yet it can successfully -be put in afterward. Its makers also offer a concealed ironing -board--behind closed doors--which for a limited home is a comfort. - -Should your home not have enough electric connections which, of course, -it should have--you can now get electric sockets with two or three plug -extensions. This can double your electric elasticity. For example, a -lamp and an electric piano player can get their nutrition from one base -plug--and you can put two bulbs in one plug. A makeshift, of course, but -it doesn’t look like one; and if your home was built in the pre-electric -era you can keep up with the times with this device. - -Lamps seem to-day to be one of the newer adjustabilities. A very useful -lamp to fix on the piano to light the eye of the musical page will be a -real convenience to the home in which the piano has to be in the living -room. The whole room can be dark except for this illumination of the -music pages--the audience can sit in darkness and have their comfort -evolve from the lighted region. Here is a time when from sitting in -darkness, light, comfort and good deeds may emerge. This lamp can be had -in all wood finishes and can be placed on beds or chairs if wanted in -these ways. - -Not snubbing other devices at all, we must lump a few suggestions in -electric apparatus. For example, the hair dryers, giving cold and hot -air, the violet ray machines, the vibrator--all three made in convenient -size and light weight. With these three things your boudoir is much more -complete. - -Yesterday, the silence cloth of cloth was all we had to put under your -tablecloth. To-day asbestos in all its fire impenetrability is to be had -in comfortable sheets for table use--to protect the polished surface in -entirety and enrich the tablecloth. You have known the mats in -asbestos--now you have the table rug. - -Jars of pottery can be rapidly turned into electric lamps by a new -device made to fit down in and raise above a lamp shade, bulb and -complete paraphernalia. Think of the good uses some old wedding presents -can be put to! This device comes in sizes to fit jars with 3″, 4″, 5″, -or 6″ openings at the top. - -Very nearly meeting the constant question: “Do you know of an -instantaneous heater?” comes the electric water heater which when -attached to your faucet gives instantaneous, exceedingly hot water. It -is a small thing not more than 8″ high and will be a boon of boons when -absolutely perfect. - -During the summer, the attic gets overheated and makes itself an -impossible place for sleeping. This need not be, as there is a material -that comes in sheets to line the walls and ceiling. For cellars the -warmth is kept in; for attics the heat is kept out. Could there be -anything more simple and adaptable. - -To close this chapter safely we can do no more than suggest a ready-made -fence! It has been on the market years--for the pastures--but is now -being introduced for the garden use of people who don’t want to or can’t -make a new fence. It is delightful--of rough hewn wood, 4, 5, or 6 bars, -posted and diagonalled. For a rambling place for roses and vines it has -no equal and to be able to buy fences by the yard for the yard is -veritably both joy and comfort brought to your very doors. - - - - -CHAPTER XL - -MEASURE FOR MEASURE - - -“A pint’s a pound the year around,” said a little old lady dealing out -some lead shot, to a young man gunner, who received a pint of shot for -his pound and went off thinking he had begun his hunt with augury well -imposed! “What’s lighter, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead?” These -two idea rousers never would have been born were it not for the average -ignorance and negligence of weights and measures in the average -time-bound home. True it is, if we are time-run we certainly are -inaccurately measured and weighed, especially in our kitchens--where -over-doses may injure, where under-doses and over-doses may ruin -recipes! - -There is really no need for this--we have had careful training in _our_ -youth with “tables.” Recall herewith when absolutely perfect. - -AVOIRDUPOIS - - 27.3 grains equal 1 dram (dr.) - 16 drams “ 1 ounce (oz.) - 16 ounces “ 1 pounds (lb.) - 100 pounds “ 1 hundred weight (cwt.) - -DRY MEASURE - - 2 pints equal 1 quart (qt.) - 8 quarts “ 1 peck - 4 pecks “ 1 bushel - 105 dry qts. “ 1 bbl.--vegetables etc. - -LIQUID MEASURE - - 4 gills equal 1 pint - 2 pints “ 1 quart - 4 quarts “ 1 gallon - 31¹⁄₂ gals. “ 1 bbl. - -LINEAR MEASURE - - 12 inches equal 1 foot - 3 feet “ 1 yard - 5¹⁄₂ yards “ 1 rod - 320 rods “ 1 mile } not quite indoors - 1760 yards “ 1 mile } but useful to know - 5280 feet “ 1 mile } - -SQUARE MEASURE - - 144 sq. inches equal 1 sq. foot - 9 “ feet “ 1 “ yard - 30¹⁄₄ “ yards “ 1 “ rod - 160 “ rods “ 1 acre - -These are the classics over which we of the ancient régime trembled but -which, in the new régime, youth imbibes in unwitting doses and grows in -spite of itself into engineers and surveyors! - -Yet for you and me there are still tables that may be of use and L. Ray -Balderston in her _Housewifery_ has published one which is worthy of -quoting:-- - - 4 saltspoonfuls equal 1 teaspoonful - 3 teaspoonfuls “ 1 tablespoonful - 16 tablespoonfuls “ 1 cupful - 2 gills “ 1 cupful - 2 cupfuls “ 1 pint - 1 cup “ 8 fluid ounces - 32 tablespoonfuls “ 1 pound of butter - 2 cups of butter “ 1 “ “ “ - 4 “ “ flour “ 1 “ “ flour - 2 “ “ sugar “ 1 “ “ sugar - 5 “ “ coffee “ 1 “ “ coffee - 1⁷⁄₈ “ “ rice “ 1 “ “ rice - 2²⁄₃ “ “ oatmeal “ 1 “ “ oatmeal - 2²⁄₃ “ “ cornmeal “ 1 “ “ cornmeal - 1 cup of liquid to 3 cups of flour equal a dough - 1 “ “ “ “ 2 “ “ “ “ thick batter - 1 “ “ “ “ 1 cup of flour equals a thin “ - -To neutralize - - 2 teaspoonfuls of soda to 1 pint of sour milk - 1 teaspoonful “ “ “ 1 cup of molasses - ¹⁄₂ “ “ cream of tartar and one teaspoonful of soda equal - 2 teaspoonfuls of “home brew” baking powder. - -But what of all this if we use a tea cup one time, a coffee cup at -another for measuring, a dessert spoon one time, teaspoon another etc? - -There is but one way to take the guess out of home cookery and that is -have a set of approved scales, dry and wet measures. - -A salt-spoon _is_ a salt-spoon, even as a rake is a rake and not a -hoe--a teaspoon has a standard size even as a peck is a peck and a quart -is a quart. Those things have governmental regulation--and you should, -of course profit by them. - -In some communities you can buy weights and measures sealed with -government approval. When possible this is a good thing. Always find -out, however, before buying whether they have the sanction of the -Standard Bureau in Washington. Or what _your_ community’s regulation may -be. - -Suppose you asked for a yard of ribbon in one shop and got short -measure? You would _soon_ detect it. Yet daily and hourly you accept a -peck of “this” or a quart of “that” and never measure it when you get it -home. - -Home telephoning for groceries and meats have permitted more short -selling than Wall Street ever dreamed of! - -Every kitchen should possess the series of spoons--attached to one -pivot. This set includes: salt spoon (¹⁄₄ teaspoon), 1 teaspoon, ¹⁄₂ -teaspoon, a metal (aluminum preferred) measuring cup with designations -of ²⁄₃, ¹⁄₃, ³⁄₄, ¹⁄₂, ¹⁄₄, a glass cup divided into quarter cups for -high convenience. - -The glass graduate with spout, measuring a pint or a quart divided into -easily read divisions is a joy in any kitchen. - -Then it is easy to have a dry measure such as a quart wooden -container--to measure things as they come from the grocer. - - -SCALES AND MEASURES - -Scales must be like Cæsar’s wife “above suspicion”--tested by local -authorities for accuracy and worth the understanding that you will have -them officially tested and “blessed” and sealed by the “Sealer.” - -There are many kinds of scales--avoid the kind which has a spring under -the pan as the spring unless a very expensive one gets out of order. The -hanging pan spring scale is generally good with per 10 to 20 lbs. -capacity. It registers the weight automatically on the pan. The folding -scale of the steelyard type is fairly accurate at a reasonable outlay -and folds against a wall and is out of the way if not weigh. The counter -beam or balance scale is most accurate if you have table space and -promise to remember where you put the weights. It requires care as you -have to do the marking by hand and no dial tells you the story. They are -more expensive but more accurate. For all purposes the scale should be -able to record from 1 lb. to 10 up to 30 lbs. - - -LIQUID MEASURE - -The quota here can comfortably be: 1 quart measure, 1 pint, and ¹⁄₂ -pint--a 4 ounce graduate sub-divided to 1 dram or less. When buying -those they should be cylindrical or conical with top diameter smaller -than bottom diameter. These are purchasable in metal, enamel ware, etc. -Must be made to wear; seamless and easily cleaned. The markings on these -should be clear enough to avoid the gawky game of “Guess.” - -To avoid error in reading cone-shaped graduate, you will see that the -subdivisions are more at base than at the top. “A 4 ounce graduate may -be subdivided to ¹⁄₂ dram for each 2 drams, to 1 dram for the next 6 -drams, to 2 drams for the remaining capacity up to 2 ounces and to 4 -drams, or half an ounce for the interval between 2 and 4 ounces. In -filling or reading, it should be held level and readings made at the -_main_ surface of liquid. Disregard the creeping up of the liquid on the -width of glass.” (This is governmental bulletin advice.) - - -DRY MEASURE - -Here the quota can be a nest of measures from ¹⁄₂ bushel to 1 quart. -These measures should be of metal or well varnished wood bound by a -metal or some sort of band on top. Cylindrical here is the best style. -If conical have them with their tops 10% or ¹⁄₁₀ larger than bottom -diameter. - -For your help: - - Diameters of ¹⁄₂ bushel should be 13³⁄₄ inch - 1 peck “ “ 10⁷⁄₈ “ - ¹⁄₂ “ “ “ 8¹⁄₂ “ - 2 quarts “ “ 6⁵⁄₈ “ - 1 quart “ “ 5³⁄₈ “ - 1 pint “ “ 4 “ - - -LENGTH MEASURE - -How many a step has been wasted looking for a yard measure, etc. Why not -have a measuring corner in the kitchen and add to it 1 yard measure or a -tape 3 to 6 feet long? Isn’t that easy enough? A yard stick of course -should be of well measured wood plus metallic ends or all of metal. It -is most convenient if sub-divided not only into feet, inches and -fractions, but into fractions of a yard. The more fractions really the -less fractious will be your measurements. - - -PRESERVING ETC. - -For testing accurately water densities, hydrometers are used. If in your -community you intend to do a lot of preserving or candy making, even in -your own home the saccharimeter (a kind of hydrometer) will take the -guess work out of the necessary thickness of a syrup’s density. This is -a short weighted spindle graduated from 0-70. When placed in water, the -spindle rests on the bottom of the vessel and the reading at the surface -is zero. As the density is increased, the spindle rises until when the -solution is saturated with sugar at the temperature indicated--the -reading is 100. This is an inexpensive one, another type mercury -weighted is more expensive and more accurate. The vessel must be same -depth as saccharimeter. A narrow vessel is best, so if you are doing -much preserving a 250 cubic centimeter glass cylinder or a brass -saccharimeter cup is the “easiest way.” Buy the cylinder and thermometer -with hydrometer. Temperature affects densities; with the three tools you -are sure. - - -THERMOMETERS - -Thermometers are useful things, if they are _accurate_ and as nearly -unbreakable as possible. There are a few good ones on the market. - -We cannot advocate the oven-door thermometer as there is hardly one -which can stand the onslaught of banging and remain in on its accurate -pinnacle! - -Many a good stove and many a bad one have inveigled purchasers because -of their neat little thermometer on their oven doors. They work all well -and good for a while but you know a thermometer is a “dainty” instrument -and must be kept well to keep well. However, there are many good -thermometers built for pretty rough use--rough as any good instrument -may be treated, which of course should never _be_ rough. - -The home could really afford the bath thermometer, the house -thermometer, the kitchen and last and least the clinical thermometer, -but the kitchen thermometer takes the guess work out of ovens’ heat and -prevents the “Fall of Doughs” a catastrophe like unto few in awfulness! -It does away with thrusting one’s hand in an oven to find out through -our uncertain senses how hot is the oven, and often prevents a well -burned finger, tongue when tasting or whole body when carelessness -creeps in. - -The thermometer is no half measure! It is a real necessity--it conquers -feelings and tells the truth. If we are slaves to time in this world, -why not switch our allegiance to the thermometer! Then with thermostats -our rooms will be habitable because they have the right degree of heat, -not because _one_ feels it too hot and another feels it too cool, and -too our food will not be wasted by under cooking or over cooking. - -Buy only the best thermometers--others add girth to the junk-pile--and -here we _must_ practice _girth_ control with all our vigor. Other -thermometers useful at home are for incubator, deep fat frying, -refrigerator, pasteurizing milk etc. - - -SOME PRECAUTIONS - -Quantity as well as quality is necessary in household economy. For this -reason, it is well to consider a few precautions and as there are a few -confusing things in even our “tables” it is best to drive ourselves up -to them like a timid horse is lead to face the terror that causes him to -shy and free himself from terror. - -The avoirdupois pound is larger than the Troy or apothecaries’ -pound--avoirdupois is 7000 grains and the latter is 5760. But the troy -or apothecaries’ ounce is larger than the avoirdupois ounce. Troy and -apothecaries’ weight differ in the division of drams, scruples and -grains (apothecaries’). - -APOTHECARIES’ WEIGHT - - 20 grains equal 1 scruple - 8 scruples “ 1 dram - 8 drams “ 1 ounce - 12 ounces “ 1 pound - -TROY WEIGHT - - 24 grains equal 1 pennyweight - 20 penny wgt. “ 1 ounce - 12 ounces “ 1 pound (Troy) - -In purchasing drugs and chemicals for the home, you may need to know -these differences. Avoirdupois system should be used generally in bulk -buying. But unless stiff regulations exist in your vicinity the -apothecary is prone to sell all by the apothecary system. Troy weight -is used by precious metal purveyors so the house is little concerned -here. - - -FLUID OUNCES--WEIGHT OUNCES - -Like the “Pint’s a pound” fable so does “all ounces look alike to me” -prevision disaster! The liquid ounce and the weight ounce _are not the -same_. [In Great Britain, however, the fluid ounce of _water_ does weigh -an ounce avoirdupois.] - - -DRY AND LIQUID QUARTS AND PINTS - -Without strict ordinances in your part of the world pretty confusion -exists in the leveling of dry and liquid dissimilarities. The dry quart -is 16% larger than the liquid--so you see the loss incurred if liquid -measure is used for a dry purchase! When you buy a quart at the hardware -store for home use, you can find out whether it is dry or liquid by -filling it with _water_. The dry quart measure should weigh 2 pounds -6³⁄₄ ounces, the liquid quart would hold but 2 pounds 1¹⁄₃ ounces of -_water_. - - -UNCERTAIN QUANTITIES - -The barrel measure is _somewhat uncertain_--_It is best to find out your -state regulations._ The barrel differs according to state law and -commodities sometimes. March 1915 a law was passed by (National) -Congress. This applies to all dry commodities except such as have been -sold by weight or numerical count (flour, sugar and cement). The -standard barrel has a capacity of 105 dry quarts. The liquid barrel’s -capacity is generally marked on its side. - - -SACKS AND BAGS - -You are prone to “get the sack” here unless you are careful. There are -usually 94 pounds of cement to the sack and 100 pounds of sugar. In the -case of flour the weights are usually in multiples of a barrel ¹⁄₂, ¹⁄₄, -¹⁄₈ etc. expressed in pounds, but the custom is growing to drop the ¹⁄₂ -pound, ¹⁄₄ pound, and ¹⁄₈ pound, from the weight of ¹⁄₈, ¹⁄₁₆, and ¹⁄₃₂ -barrel size and make their weights 24, 12 and 6 pounds. (Barrel of flour -has 196 pounds.) Potatoes generally weigh 2¹⁄₂ bushels to the -sack--according to weight per bushel in your own State. - - -HEAPED BUSHEL--BULKY VEGETABLES, FRUITS ETC. - -In different states the heaped measure is heaped differently, in some -the measure is heapable to the point where the commodity falls “down and -out,” in others the cone above the measure has certain lawful -dimensions--So find out before you are fooled. - -In buying peas, dried beans etc. be sure they are measuring your -purchase by _dry_ not by liquid measures--or you will lose 15% of your -purchase! - - -BASKETS - -Basket sizes are just about standardized to 2 quart, 4 quart and 12 -quart baskets. - - -BOXES FOR FRUITS - -A national law says that the standard basket or boxes or container for -small fruits, berries and vegetables shall be of the following -capacities:--Dry half pint, dry pint, dry quart, or multiples of the dry -quart. - - -CORDS OF WOOD - -Practice differs here in large measure--Purchasers must find out local -laws. In most States a cord of wood is 128 cubic feet--in piles 3 × 8 × -4 foot lengths. The lengths, however, into which wood is cut in some -places is 3, or 2, or 1¹⁄₂ feet! Measurements are sometimes made before -and sometimes after splitting. The basket in some states measures -fractions of cords, occasionally it is equal to a heaped bushel, in -other states it is more specifically designated. Look up your laws, here -all your safety lies! - - -CONTAINERS - -Finally, check up the contents of your containers and notify the makers; -you will help the public and the manufacturer. Statements of weight are -in avoirdupois terms. Packages of 2 pounds or less are exempt from -marking, and containers below 1 fluid ounce come under this exemption. -Notify the maker if loss exists; it is a public service. - -Losses often occur from evaporation, leakage, bad packing, and -consequent deterioration before opening. The manufacturer will be glad -to get a notification if he is of integrity so that he can take steps to -correct his measure. Here is real need for a good scales and measuring -cups. - -The contents of a cylindrical can or paint pail can be determined: - - Measure circumference with a tape. - - “ height “ “ “ - - Diameter of can equals ⁷⁄₂₂ of circumference. - - Subtract from circumference a slight amount for thickness of can. - - Multiply the result by itself and the product of ¹¹⁄₁₄. - - This result should be multiplied by height of can less proper - allowance for inset and thickness of ends. - - The result (if you have used inches) will be the cubic contents (in - inches,) it can be reduced to gallons or fraction of a gallon by - dividing by 231. - -These precautions are only a few in the course of home buying. But we -hope they will be suggestive. - -Know your state laws. - -No home should be--no matter what its scale--without a scale, a liquid, -as well as a dry set of measure. - -It is wisest to buy and sell by weight as the heaping systems vary. It -is fairest to customer and more comfortable to merchant. If you and -every one insist on this fashion--it will prevail in the future. - - -ADDITION AND RECAPITULATION - -Finally we have added to our familiar weights, measures, thermometers -and scales--the hydrometer for candy making, preserves etc., the water -meter which you don’t realize is working away in your home, the electric -meter which silently subtracts coin from your pocket too, the gas meter -which is just as financially obstreperous and if you are inquisitive -meteorologically you may too have a barometer to tell the atmospheric -pressure and presage the weather and the hygroscope or psychrometer -which will measure the humidity in the air. These things are the -measures which will take the “uncertain” out of your domestic sailing -and be an all encompassing compass for all your goings, comings, and -weighs. - -But above all don’t forget the egg timer--or the clock for without these -two things marriage can be a brittle thing and homekeeping an anarchy. - - - - -CHAPTER XLI - -TAKING THE KITCHEN ALONG - - -It is no longer necessary for motorists to trust to luck and the -roadhouse restaurant for lunch. They can take their own kitchen along -and loiter down the highways and byways and eat where and when they -will. Manufacturers who have studied the requirements of motorists -provide the neatest imaginable bits of equipment for use on the road. -With them you can be as comfortable in the Gobi Desert as at home. - -The best known of these pieces is what is called the “Restaurant,” a -ship-shaped glazed duck or sole leather case equipped with knives, -forks, spoons, cups, saucers, butter jars, sandwich boxes, vacuum -bottles, salt and pepper shakers and napkins, for from two to eight -persons. They can be strapped on the running board or back rack of the -car or slid unobstructively into the tonneau. They are shaped usually -like suit cases, although one firm makes them in a flat, square shape of -sole leather, black grain leather or glazed duck (patent leather). - -There is a case of this kind on the market that carries a cooking -apparatus, a long fork and a folding gasoline cook stove with two -burners. This burns ordinary gasoline, which the motorist always has -with him. There are no loose parts to assemble or become lost. When it -is folded all parts are enclosed easily and rapidly and the case fastens -securely and simply. It can be bought separately or in combination with -the above case. These cases are built on a basis of bass or some other -strong wood and are practically unbreakable. - -If you prefer a wood fire to the gasoline stove, there are small grates -to be had which aid greatly in the building of it. These are light in -weight and can be carried easily. - -Long ago the vacuum bottle solved the problem of carrying cold and hot -food. It is made in many shapes, styles and forms. It insures comfort -for the long or short tour, and if a little care is taken in the -handling there is no danger of breakage. - -The best of these bottles are made of glass well annealed, insuring -elasticity. The outer walls are generally of steel and relieve the -jarring. The inner wall is also of steel, and between these walls is the -vacuum, impenetrative to heat and cold. - -These jars and bottles hold from one pint to one gallon, so the range of -choice is vast enough for utility. The stoppers are so made and fitted, -plus their caps, to prevent leakage of wind or advent of outside air, -that the temperature probably never changes more than a few degrees in -twenty-four hours. - -Cases for these bottles in various sizes are made of leather, duck and -wicker. They are convenient and absolutely necessary to the longevity of -the bottle as it is so adjusted in the casing that it rests and vibrates -enough to ease strain which might overcome the elasticity of the glass -and cause breakage. - -The bottles themselves are finished in leather over metal or in metal -containers, and some come equipped with handles and also with convenient -cups. - -Another invaluable aid in an automobile trip is the fireless cooker, -which makes a hot meal at any time a reality. Start it before the trip -begins and by meal time you’ll have a real dinner, not a pseudo-feast. -These fireless cookers can be had, so don’t forget them in planning a -trans-desert tour amid sands and dry winds. - - -REFRIGERATORS - -There are on the market admirable ice-boxes for the motorist. These come -with partitions for ice and partitions for food. Some have racks in -which bottles and other things are held firmly. The wicker basket lined -with metal is a useful one and has a convenient carrying handle. It is -of the finest workmanship of imported reed, with hardwood bottom covered -with two coats of mineral paint. The covers are of three-ply basswood -finished in dark forest green. There are straps to fasten the cover, and -the hinges, buckles and nickel-plated fixings are of perfect -workmanship. The lining is nickel-plated zinc and especially insulated -against aggressive, unwanted, outside air. - -The iceless refrigerator is an ice saving and remarkable device which -“works” on the old evaporation cooling principle. The two earthenware -crocks, which fasten together, are submerged before filling in clear -water. When kept in a draught or in a moving vehicle or in a window, the -evaporation process cools the food within. This device saves ice, the -cool air doing the work. - -The other refrigerator boxes are excellent, too, with their fine -installations and vents for melted ice. These are generally leather -covered and zinc lined. - - -COOKING OUTFITS - -Campers use cooking outfits that motorists do well to copy. For example, -the cooking outfits made of hard seamless aluminum, for from two to six -persons, include, in the smallest set, one frying pan, two cooking -pots, one coffee pot, two plates, two cups, two soup bowls, two knives, -two forks, two dessert spoons and two teaspoons, all nested together in -the big cooking pot, and weighing six pounds six ounces. The outfit -measures 9¹⁄₂″ × 8³⁄₄″, all wrapped in a canvas case. - -The nest for eight includes: three cooking pots, one E cooking pot, one -large coffee pot, two frying pans, eight dessert and eight teaspoons. It -is only 11″ × 12⁷⁄₈″ nested, and weighs 18³⁄₄ pounds. It can be attached -in canvas case to rear or side of running board racks, or carried in the -car. - -If aluminum is too expensive, there is always the very same kit in -steel, heavier, of course, but just as compact in size. All are seamless -and best quality. - -There are also pocket kits which weigh about 31 ounces and measure 2″ × -3¹⁄₈″ × 8¹⁄₂″ and include a folding broiler, racks which thrust into the -ground, two frying pans with detachable handles and which when fitted -together make a perfect roaster. All fold neatly together and there is -room for knives, forks, etc. - -If this list of accessible accessories does not fire your desire to take -to the open road, nothing will. - - - - -CHAPTER XLII - -THE FIRE HAZARD - - -The chief underlying reasons for fires in civilized communities are: -carelessness, ignorance and panic. - -The immediate causes are: kitchen stove and range maladjustments; -heating stove and furnace pipe lapses; trouble in chimney flues and -pipings; carelessness with lamps, gas, oily rags, cleaning fluids; soot -deposits of soft coal; spontaneous combustion; bad insulation; no -insulation; cigarettes, etc.; no means to put out a fire when it starts; -and, topping it all hidden electric diseases cause almost more fires -than any other one cause. - -In rural farm communities there are the forest and brush fires, which we -need consider but grudgingly here, the many fires which catch from roof -to roof, and the fires from the chimney which start one’s own roof -afire. Then there are lightning, incendiary fires by tramps, kerosene -oil lanterns; creosote from the smoke and soot in wood-burning -communities disintegrates the mortar in the masonry, and as the woodwork -comes in contact with the chimneys, fires are the result. To these are -added the other hazards common to all modern life to-day. - -Farmers or those living out of the range of the fire department should -be more especially equipped against fire than any other groups. For -example, a ladder is a great necessity, and yet many people who are in -isolated places never spend a little money on a good one that might save -the roof and then the home, to say nothing of lives. - -Dirty lamps with loose connections cause many a fire and should be -thought about seriously. Wet days on the farm are great fire makers, for -clothes are put near to the fire, and whoop la!--a very warm fire -ensues! Candles, too, are handled carelessly and should be treated as -inflammable material when they are lit. Most ashes will spontaneously -burn if set away, as the fine bits of coal and grease adore fire. -Lanterns plus hay if not carefully used are another cause of fire. So -carelessness really is the root of 99% of fires, and yet we indulge -ourselves in this ruthless pleasure. - -Probably the kitchen is one of the best little hatcheries in the home -for fires. Why that is, is easy enough to see. The chief cause here is -negligence and its first cousin, ignorance. - -Fires are swift followers of these conventions: - -Ignition of wood floors under, or walls back of, stoves; drying wood in -ovens; kindling left over night too near the stove; clothes hung on -backs of chairs too near the stove or on the clothes horse too near to -the stove, especially if they have been cleaned with gasoline or other -cleaning fluids; thin clothes, flimsy sleeves catching a flame make -delightfully hot and dangerous fires. - -Fires may be guarded against in these ways: - - 1. Metal shields projecting at least 6″ at the sides and back and 12″ - in front of ash pans should be placed under all kitchen stoves - standing on wooden floors. - - 2. All ranges on wood or combustible floors and beams that are not - supported on legs, and have ash pans 3″ or more above their base, - should be set on brick foundations. - - 3. Large ranges, if under combustible ceilings, should have metal - hoods above with a ventilating pipe passing through to the outer air - through a sleeve or asbestos packing. - - 4. Wood stud partitions back of ranges standing 12″ or less away - should be shielded with metal from the floor to at least 36″ higher - than the ranges. - - 5. It should be remembered that tin, zinc or sheet-iron used to - protect woodwork from the heat should be so placed that there will be - an air space between it and the wall. - - 6. If a metal is against the wood, it only serves to conceal charring - without preventing it. Bear in mind that bright tin reflects more heat - than sheet iron. - - 7. Watch stovepipes for parted joints and rust holes; clean soot from - chimneys and stovepipes at stated intervals; do not allow plaster back - of stoves to remain broken. - - 8. There is now a fine asbestos product made which is a mixture of - cement and wood and asbestos which if placed under the stove or even - back of it will prevent fire. This material is not cold to the foot, - can be highly polished and is most delightful in a well groomed - kitchen. This too can be used for table tops and is polished by a - mixture made for its express demands. - -This asbestos wood is invaluable for partitions, obviating very thick -and expensive walls; and due to its lightness it can be used for light -frame houses and insure fire protection. It is used for switch-board and -other insulations by electricians, etc. It takes various stains and -finishes in imitation of wood or marble, is rigid, light and fireproof. - -It is the same physically as wood except that it is fireproof, takes a -higher polish and is harder. It can be used not only for making walls, -floors and ceilings fireproof, but window casing, partitions, -base-boards, cabinets, and all trim. It is moisture-resisting and -impervious to weather conditions. - -The people that are the most careful of the pocketbook seem to forget -the ordinary fire peril and don’t seem to realize the necessity for -concentration on the cures, probably because they are optimists and do -not think of any trouble--yet why pay so dearly for optimism? - -For example, most stoves should be at least 24″ to 30″ from these things -that combine so affectionately with them and should be at least 6″ off -the floor if not standing on metal or asbestos wood. If lath and plaster -are protected by a metal shield, then the stoves can be within 18″ with -safety. A fire proof material should be at least 36″ square on the floor -to catch flying embers from stove or fire. - -The fire clay linings in the stove should be watched and seen to be -sound, and the fire in any stove should never be made above the fire -clay linings. Possibly you have not heard of these things before and -they sound like the cry of the alarmist. Never fear. It is better to cry -before you’re hurt, sometimes, than afterwards! - -Never put kindling wood in the oven. - -Deposit all ashes in metal receptacles or upon non-combustible floors, -removing same from building at least once a week. Barrels or boxes -should not be used for storing or carrying ashes unless they are -constructed entirely of metal. - -Before starting fires in the autumn, thoroughly clean out the furnace -and flues thereto, also the fireplaces. - -Carefully examine them and immediately repair or replace any defective -part. Don’t burn out chimneys and flues by making an especially hot fire -with paper, etc. Main chimneys should be cleaned from roof to cellar. -All stovepipes where entering chimneys should be provided with metal -collars and rigidly fixed in place. Replace any tile, crock or flimsy -flues and chimneys with substantial brick chimneys. - -Gas stoves or other heaters should have a ventilating flue to carry off -the burned gas fumes, which are poisonous. Do not use portable rubber or -similar tubing, but connect all gas stoves rigidly and securely with gas -pipe. Examine valves and see that they are tight and do not leak. - -Never permit a stove of any kind to be set up without stone, brick, -concrete or metal protection underneath, or near a partition without a -metal shield and air space. Never run stovepipes through partitions, or -paste paper over flue holes. - -All types of open fireplaces or stoves, especially where there are -children, should be provided with substantial spark screens. - -Don’t throw waste paper on an open fire unless you watch it more than -carefully. - -Every period of extreme cold results in numerous fires due to forcing -the heating apparatus. Keep this in mind next winter. Watch your heater. - -Keep hoods and pipes of kitchen range free from grease and lint by -cleaning with hot water and lye. - -Do not hang clothes or bags near stoves, or on stovepipes or steam pipes -or on electric bulbs. In the case of the recondite furnace whose being -we take for granted, the same principles apply as to the stove. For -safety, asbestos about the wood and adjacent places makes safety sure, -and if safety first doesn’t apply here where does it? It will at least -keep the secretive fire below stairs from breaking bounds. - -Where pipes, flues, etc., pass through woodwork there should be asbestos -or metal protection to the wood or else here again we will be victims -of a lapse of precaution. - -Sometimes fires have occurred by the closing of all registers in a house -heated by hot air and the unnatural heat left in the furnace overheats -pipes, etc., to a dangerous degree. In some homes so heated there are -two registers which cannot possibly be closed, and obviates overheating. - -Inspection of flues to see that deteriorated mortar will not permit the -exit of fire to surrounding woodwork will prevent many a fire. Very -often where joists and beams rest on chimneys and are not sufficiently -insulated against the ravages of faulty construction or wear, they will -catch fire slowly but surely. - -Faulty joints in pipes are many times the cause of fire when the rest of -the home is perfectly guaranteed against it. For example, when a -stovepipe is fitted into another there should be at least a 3″ lap to -make a safe joint. Imperfect junctures of pipe and flue, pipe and pipe, -make for the escape of sparks and consequent fire. Stovepipes should not -pass through a floor or plaster partition or any concealed place, lest a -parted joint or rust holes may cause mischief. - -Nor should any pipe that is likely to be heated pass through an attic -where fluff is bound to accumulate, unless this pipe be insulated with -asbestos to prevent ignition. Neither should a stovepipe pass through a -roof, window or siding even of a summer kitchen; and the running of a -very long stovepipe perpendicularly into a chimney is also hazardous. - -A stovepipe or a chimney, no matter how well isolated by zinc or what -not, can set the ordinary shingled roof on fire by the escape of -fiercely burning bits of soot and cinder. Many a roof has been burned -this way, to say nothing of the whole house. - -There is to-day, besides the heavy tile, metal and composition roof, an -asbestos roofing in the shape of shingles of any color and shape that -will wear indefinitely, and is absolutely fireproof, moisture-proof and -light enough to be put on any house. Furthermore if you don’t want to -remove the old wooden roof, this shingle can be put over it and make a -better roof than without the old one, as the insulation value of the -wood will keep the attic warm in winter and cool in summer. There are -many asbestos roofings, the best of which are made of asbestos fiber, -cement; these are made in all colors, sizes and shapes and can be put on -by any roofer. There is never any reason to repaint or repair them, and -if they are a bit higher at first in price than the ordinary shingle, -you save in the lack of upkeep and the fact that no sparking can go on -between your neighbor’s roof and your own or between your chimney and -your own roof. Copper roofs now are within the scope of more purses than -heretofore. - -You have to remove stains from your garments, and for this may incur -death and destruction by fire quite readily. But death is not necessary -if a few precautions be taken. Keep the gasoline or whatever you may -have in a can that can be bought for the purpose. Then don’t deposit it -in the stove or near it, but away from it where there is no chance of -any fire coming in contact with it. Don’t clean your clothes with these -fluids in the smoking room or the kitchen. If possible clean them -outdoors. - - -FUELS - -Wood as a fuel is dangerous because it burns rapidly, makes a lot of -ashes and has to be replenished so often. Kerosene makes a lot of -trouble because there is such crass ignorance in its use. Some people -seem to love to fill a lamp when it is burning. Of course this is the -worst thing that one could do. And others dote on pouring kerosene on an -open fire. Gasoline is explosive and as a fuel for the home not at all -warranted. Water won’t be a very good extinguisher in these cases, but -we will talk about extinguishers a little later on. - -When you realize that six percent of all fires are caused by lamps it -will do no one harm to learn the following rules by heart and by brain: - -Kerosene should always be handled by daylight and away from all flames -and fires. Under no circumstances whatever should a lamp be filled while -its wick is lighted. After filling a lamp both the burner and the -reservoir should always be carefully wiped free from oil films. - -When a lamp is not burning it is well to keep the wick a little below -the top of the tube. This helps to prevent oil from working over the -burner and reservoir. - -Lamps should be filled as often as they are used. Especially do not -light a lamp when the oil is low in the reservoir. Never use a burner -which fits loosely upon the rest of the lamp. Never use a lamp wick -which does not fit the tube provided for it. Never blow out a kerosene -flame downward. Turn down the wick a little and let the flame go out of -itself. - -If you must blow it out blow upward through the burner or across the top -of the chimney. Both of these methods produce an upward draught. - -Do not try to carry a blazing lamp to a place of safety. The least -agitation may cause an explosion. When the lamp is well filled there is -small chance of gas forming in it; but as the oil is consumed explosive -gases form. - -A burner that is kept clean and bright radiates heat, while a dirty one -conducts heat to a lamp. - -Glass lamps are especially dangerous. The dropping or breaking of -lighted lamps and the spreading of burning oil annually bring havoc to -many hundreds of homes. - - -MEDICAMENTS - -As well as cleaning fluids the presence of medicine and liniments made -of ether and chloroform and alcohol are always causes of fire when not -properly housed in the right kind of metal medicine chest and not -directly over or near a gas jet or oil lamp. So remember to use -carefully anything with these chemicals or camphor, varnishes, -turpentine, benzine or gasoline. Keep them in tin cans, which are to be -had for them. Use them in daylight. - -Never leave rags around saturated with oils, medicines or greases, -because spontaneous combustion will take place. - -According to the National Fire Protection Association, the attic, cellar -and all closets and outbuildings should be cleaned at least once every -year, and all useless material and rubbish removed therefrom and burned. -These unnecessary accumulations are dangerous, and are the causes of -many fires. Store all remaining material neatly so that a clear passage -may be had between or around boxes, cases, barrels, etc. - -Metal waste baskets, only, should be used. - -In storing clothing, first remove all matches or other material from the -pockets and then carefully fold and neatly place away. Do not hang -clothes where they will be near hot chimneys. Do not go into closets -with lighted matches or candles. - -Care should be exercised in burning leaves, dead grass or rubbish. Keep -these fires a safe distance from buildings, and never light them on -windy days. - -Do not bank houses in winter with straw, excelsior or other readily -inflammable material; a chimney spark or carelessly thrown match may -ignite it. - -Use safety matches, and make it impossible for children to get them. -Always place burned matches in metal receptacles; never throw them on -the floor or into waste baskets. - -To smoke in garages, in beds, or around stables containing hay is -deliberately to invite disaster. - -Swinging gas brackets are dangerous, and never should be allowed near -curtains or dressers. Fix them rigidly so as to avoid contact with -combustible material. If open gas flames are within two feet of ceiling, -see that ceiling is protected with sheet metal or asbestos board. Tips -for gas lights are inexpensive, while a light used with a broken tip or -without a tip often causes fire. Don’t use gas pendant mantles unless -protected underneath with wire gauze. Hot carbon deposits form and drop -from mantles of gas arc lamps. A globe closed at the bottom is safer. - -Examine the gas meter, see that it is securely set and well connected, -and is not located near open lights or furnaces. An outside gas shut-off -valve to service-connection is desirable. Never look for gas leaks with -a match, candle or lamps. - -Where a dwelling is lighted by a gasoline vapor or acetylene gas system -the rules governing the safe use of these illuminants should be -carefully studied and rigidly observed. - -Illuminating oils should be kept in closed metal cans in a safe place, -and lamps should never be filled except by daylight. Kerosene lamps -should be kept clean and properly trimmed. If allowed to burn all night, -select one that contains much more than enough oil. A dirty lamp -containing only a little oil is unsafe. - -Do not use paper or decorative shades of inflammable material on lamps -or electric light bulbs. - -Electricity can be a real hidden peril and extends throughout the wire -system in a building. Be sure it is safely installed, and have the -system carefully inspected and approved by a recognized electric -inspector. Many fires are due to defective electric wiring. Do not -destroy insulation on electric light, fan or heater wires by hanging -them on hooks or nails. Immediately repair or replace any defective -switches, fuses, sockets, etc. A fuse is the “safety valve” of an -electric system, and should never be replaced by one of larger size or -any other material. - -Before attaching electric irons, vacuum cleaners, cooking utensils or -any other electrical device to your lighting circuits or sockets, -consult an electrician as to the ability of your wiring to withstand -this additional load. Electric wiring systems are designed to carry only -a certain current, and if overloaded may cause fires. Numerous fires -have been caused by leaving electric irons with the current on. -Disconnect them immediately when through using. _Electricity is safe but -carelessness is unsafe._ - - -HEATING AND GARAGE HAZARDS - -Coal and kindling should preferably be kept within a brick or stone -enclosure and not stored against frame partitions nor directly against -walls of boiler or furnace. It is well to see that the garden hose may -be attached to the kitchen faucet. - -Never allow open flame lights in a garage. When filling the tank, run -the auto outside, so that gasoline vapors will dissipate. - -Do not keep quantities of gasoline or calcium carbide inside of garage -or dwelling. An approved underground storage tank is the safest method -for keeping gasoline. - -[Illustration: DETACH PLUG FROM IRON AS WELL AS FROM SOCKET IF YOU WANT -YOUR HOME INTACT] - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._ - -DON’T PULL THE CORD A MILE ABOVE THE IRON TO DETACH, BUT TAKE IT DOWN -CLOSE TO THE IRON. THIS SAVES THE WIRES AND FIRES] - -[Illustration: - - _Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._ - -SHE HAS PREPARED THE WAY FOR A NICE LITTLE FIRE] - -[Illustration: SHE IS CAREFUL AND HER IRON WILL NOT PRACTICE ARSON] - -A metal waste can should be located at a convenient place outside the -garage for all waste and greasy rags. Burn these every week. Never use -sawdust or shavings to absorb grease and oil. Scrub floor (if wooden) -occasionally with hot water and lye. - -The use of gasoline for cleaning parts of the automobile in the garage -is a dangerous thing. - -The garage should not be heated by means of stove or open fire of any -kind, unless same is isolated in another room so that the gasoline -vapors of garage cannot possibly get to it. Gasoline vapor travels. -Being heavier than air, it seeks low levels. Ventilation should be -arranged to take care of vapors collecting near the floor. - -Keep an approved fire extinguisher and a pail of sand in the garage. -Water thrown on burning gasoline merely serves to spread it. - -In many cases water will quench fire. But in the case of oils, alcohol -and other volatile liquids and grease fires water simply spreads the -fire and you are in more trouble than you were at first. - - -THE BIG EIGHT - -The eight firemakers in the order of their devastating power are as -follows: Electrical, due to carelessness and lack of proper inspection; -matches and smoking; defective chimneys and flues; stoves, furnaces, -pipings and boilers; spontaneous combustion; sparks on roofs, and -petroleum and its products. From 1915 to 1919 the value of fires from -these causes aggregated $1,416,375,845. Is it any wonder that there is -now agitation all over the United States to have at least thirty minutes -given each week to the study of fire prevention? Saving the home is -better even than building more homes. - - -EXTINGUISHERS - -Every home, of course, should be equipped with the best possible -extinguisher. There are any number of them on the market. Do you know of -many motorists who refuse the call of the extinguisher? There are not -many who have not one in their car, yet there are few homes with them. -Large homes should have one on every floor. Small homes, even if they -have not enough footage to lower their insurance rates, should have them -to reduce the fire hazard. - -What kind should the householder buy? The chief thing here is to buy one -that has no fancy method of operation, that simply by inverting the -container turns on a forceful stream; light as possible in weight, not -over 25 pounds and preferably about 12, so that a woman can use it. -Right there it is interesting to note that _The Fireman’s Herald_ -reports that women daily put out more fires and obviate conflagrations -than men; that were it not for the fact that women put out so many, the -fire peril would have been far greater. - -Other things that you must demand in the extinguisher are that it must -have at least a stream of 20′ long; that there must be no suffocating -fumes from the chemical’s contact with the fire; that the chemical must -be as nearly stainproof as possible so that in a small fire the room is -not unnecessarily disfigured. The chemical must not freeze readily at -least not above 27 or 28 degrees Fahrenheit. - -There is one extinguisher on the market to-day that is gaining mightily -in favor, because it spreads a foam over the fire and cuts off the -oxygen, and the laying of the foam prevents a flash-back when the fire -is nearly out. At first this was used in the extinguishing of oil -fires, the heaviest and most difficult of all fires to put out. For -example, where a chemical engine took an hour to do the trick this foam -type took a few minutes. - -This has the added power of expanding over eight times its bulk in the -container when released, so that if the house type is used the container -need not be over ³⁄₄ gallon and you really have about six gallons of -material for the fire. This does no more damage to draperies than would -water. It does not injure cottons or wools and does not penetrate -fabrics as many other chemicals do. If it gets on one’s clothes it is -easily brushed off after it dries. On polished and varnished furniture -it has no effect and is easily washed off. - - -SERVICE - -Reliable firms will always tell you correctly what kind of an -extinguisher to buy for your particular purpose. They will, too, in -compliance with the Board of Underwriters’ rulings, watch the apparatus -once a year and recharge if necessary. Actually they don’t always need -it, but it is a wise ruling of the Board. - -There are some extinguishers excellent for outdoors, motor boating, -etc., but which indoors are apt to give off suffocating fumes. - -There are extinguishers of large capacity on wheels for large homes and -large estates. These are a great insurance against fire. They are built -on narrow gage wheels for rolling on floors in the house and heavier -construction for outdoor use. Many big estates use these little two -wheelers, as they are fire departments in themselves. - -A good quality fire hose is a mighty good assistance in a large home, -too, and is becoming very widely used. Of course, there are many fires -that water not only will not quench, but will spread; on the other -hand, there are many little conflagrations that water immediately will -kill. - -Another good method, but not as efficient, for use in all conditions is -the telescopic fire bucket set. Six pails are set in a container in the -liquid and all one has to do in case of fire is to open the lid and each -pail comes out filled. If the fire is not great and has just started and -is within a few feet of you, this is all well and good, but one can -hardly throw water from a pail as far as ten feet above your head, while -with the extinguisher the stream is from twenty to forty feet in length. -This pail system would not reach a roof, you see, which the extinguisher -might. - -An intimate acquaintance with the wizardly asbestos will do a lot in the -home to keep the hearth fires burning in their right places. The -asbestos ironing pad on the ironing board is a good resilient thing. -Although not in this case primarily meant as a fire preventive, it will -stop the iron from causing a big fire, even if it should burn off the -top sheeting, for when it reaches the asbestos the fire will go out. - -There are now some very convenient collapsible ladder escapes which are -stored in a small box near the window, which makes the escape from a -fire not dependent on ancestors who were tight-rope walkers. - -There are regular fireproof builders who do naught else but fireproof -work, but in this article we are only concerned in the home after it is -built. Yet we cannot refrain from saying that the right architect and -the right builder at first will reduce your fire hazard; they will -adhere not only to the Underwriters’ rulings but they will build a house -so that its insulation (electric), air insulation and circulation and -partitions will be done according to safe and wise arrangement. - -Don’t do foolhardy things and think you can get away with them. - -Have the telephone number of the nearest fire station on a special -card at your telephone, or have fire departments in your own -home--extinguishers. - -Familiarize the family with the operation of the nearest fire alarm box. -After operating a fire alarm, stay near it to direct the fireman to the -fire. Every minute is significant. - -Don’t fail to notify the chief of the fire department of anything you -may see that is dangerous or liable to cause fire. - -We could say to-day that in the home millions are spent for fires, but -hardly one cent for prevention of them. Should we not as enlightened -human beings take thought and save the world some of its useless -expenditure of life, limb and extravagance? - -There is now on the market a new little extinguisher weighing about two -pounds. - - - - -CHAPTER XLIII - -TAKING CARE OF THE HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENT - - -As we have intimated before in these articles, the best of everything -may be yours, yet if you care for them in slovenly, careless or -uninformed ways it will be as if you had nothing whatever of any value. - -The persistent ignorance of the seemingly most enlightened and -experienced housekeepers as to the use and care of the refrigerator is -appalling. It is positively amazing to see the breakage of sane rules of -procedure in favor of what seems to them proper. For example, the best -of housewives will insist on filling the ice chamber of the refrigerator -with but a suspicion of ice and a riot of food, whereas the ice chamber -is meant for ice, and ice to the limit of its capacity, not once a week -but every and all day. Unless this is done the air currents over which -the manufacturer has slaved to make possible will not occur, and the -best refrigerator becomes a useless thing. You might just as well get a -packing case and stuff it full of ice and food. The ice chest must be -full in order to cool the air and start the heavier (cool) air falling -through the chest, which as it descends gets warmer, rises, passes over -the ice, cools again and drops--and so on in endless circulation. It is -these currents which keep the refrigerator cold; it is not the ice cake -itself. In a little ice box, yes, the food has to be put into the ice -chamber as there is no other, but here you are not depending on the -melting of the ice starting air currents to descend and to rise. The -problem is quite a different one. - -We think probably the difficulty with the owners of refrigerators is -that they have the ice box in mind and it is an inherited notion that -the food must be in close proximity to the ice. This paragraph may seem -a digression, but it is purposely put in to emphasize the fact that the -ice box and the ice refrigerator are two very distinct and different -things. Therefore, be it remembered that in the refrigerator you must -not waste the ice by cuddling warm provisions next it, because your ice -is like a battery. It, too, makes currents--not electric, but air -currents. - -Now then, when we have the ice-making currents, what happens to the air -of varying degrees of temperature? The coldest air is at the bottom of -the refrigerator (of course we are always thinking of the best -refrigerators) because cold air is heavier than warm air and the warm -air rises. Therefore, if you have odorous things do not put them in the -ice chamber because the air starting down will carry odors along. Put -the odorous things and the things that should be kept coldest on the -lower shelves. - -In some chests the currents of air are so good that onions and butter -never exchange compliments--a highly snobbish society where there is -little amalgamation. - -One buyer of an expensive refrigerator said that his refrigerator was a -great disappointment because the ice chamber leaked. Now this was a -strange thing, for these ice chambers are made of the best workmanship -known to refrigeratordom. Everything was questioned: Did you keep your -ice chamber full? The reply: Yes. Did you keep things other than ice in -the ice chamber? The orthodox answer came: No. Do you close the door of -the ice chest completely? Answer: Yes. - -So the repair man went to the house to give the erring chest a -stethoscoping and found that the floor of the ice chest’s compartment -was a little uneven and the water was forced from the melting ice into -foreign channels and escaped through the front of the ice box, dropping -in streaking lines on the front façade. - -This is but a minor point, yet the refrigerator or the stove or the -vacuum cleaner or the anything is often blamed for misplacements, lack -of care and ignorance on the part of the operator, and this article is -meant to forestall a very few of them. - -Here, then, are some things to watch out for: - - 1. Keep the doors of the refrigerator closed always. If they don’t - close easily, see to it that something is done to make them close. - - 2. If you have a refrigerator with a lot of movable parts it is well - to remove them and immerse in hot water occasionally. But don’t buy - one that has many outgoing parts; it’s unnecessary and a constant - bother to adjust. - - 3. Once a week wash out the whole chest with warm water and soda; - never use strong smelling soaps. Ammonia can be used but it is - probably best to use soda. Hot water cleans better, of course, but it - will give the ice more cooling to do and if the box is cleaned - regularly cool water ought to do the trick well enough. However, every - so often the hot bath is a good thing. - - 4. Every day wash off the ice that newly enters the ice chamber. - - 5. Never wrap the ice in paper thinking to save ice, because ice only - makes cold air by melting. Here is a place where the good and saving - housekeeper saves ice to the destruction of her food stuffs, yet this - is the hardest bit of politics to propagate. - - 6. If the lining gets discolored use some harmless preparation to - remove the stains. - - 7. It is sometimes a good idea to put a piece of waxed paper around - highly odorous foods. - - 8. Wash everything in the way of utensils that are put in the box. - Have a regular refrigerator set of dishes. - - 9. Wash vegetables before entering, for if there is anything - introduced in the way of foreign matter, the enemy alien may make for - odorous trouble. - - 10. Cover any receptive foods; it’s wisest even with the most - perfectly ventilated refrigerators. Liquids will dry up a bit with a - dry air circulation and egg yolks kept in water will keep better if - the water is changed daily. If dampness collects in your refrigerator - something is wrong. - - 11. Wash off the outside of refrigerator with damp cloth every week. - - 12. Remove ice rack and scrub well in water and soda weekly. - - 13. Boil parts (removable) twice a month or use very hot water. - - 14. Dry case thoroughly after every douching. - - 15. If the refrigerator is well connected to drain, a little hose to - flush the interior will be simple and easy. - - 16. The drain pipe must be carefully flushed, as here the invading - army of typhoid, etc., loves to encamp and make inroads. See to it - that the drain pipe is easily removed and cleaned and that the drain - pan (should the drain pipe have no outlet into the plumbing system) be - easily removed at least once a week to be cleaned out. - -With these few words we will leave probably the most familiar bit of -household mismanagement to a reforming public, and pass on to some -floor coverings. - -In the case of linoleum and similar floorings we will take for granted -that they are perfectly laid down and that all that there is for us to -think about is the nursing of them. Even the cheaper (printed and not -inlay) of these floorings will last years if the following suggestions -are absorbed and put into regular practice: - -Sweep linoleums daily. This is easy. - -Use an oil mop daily. - -Never use anything but a mild soap and tepid water for cleaning. - -Then rinse with clear water and dry thoroughly. It should be done a -square yard at a time, each yard carefully dried before going to the -neighboring yard. Do not flood when a mop is used. - -Elbow grease, mild soap and warm water are all that is necessary. - -Avoid as the plague: lye, soda, potash and all cleaning inventions which -may harbor lyes! - -Polishing makes the flooring last longer, of course. Colors will be -reborn each time and the floor withstand wear better. Use a good floor -wax. A home-made kind, if you can’t buy any of the finest kinds on the -market, can be made of beeswax and turpentine in equal parts. Use all -the polishes sparingly and not more than once a month. Rub in well, -however, when you are doing it. - -It is well to have glass or metal caps on heavy furniture as narrow -castors are prone to furrow. - -For cork floors: - -Sweep daily. - -They must be washed with tepid water and weak soap. - -Polishing is unnecessary. - -Floors of tiles, etc., should be swept daily. Flush with warm water. -Scrub once a week, strong soap and elbow grease. Soda and water will -remove stains. If not, use a weak hydrochloric acid or oxalic acid and -wash off immediately with water and soap which will stop the further -action of the acid on the tile. (One part of acid to two parts of -water.) - -Wooden floors also should be swept daily. Swab (don’t scrub a varnished -or painted floor) with warm water and weak soap. Keep hardwood floors -free from grit, which bites and grays. Use a soft dry mop of felt or the -brushes the reliable manufacturers make for the hardwood floors. -Occasionally wipe off with some well known and tested floor finish. - -To-day with rustless and ordinary steel the problem of cutlery is -simpler and yet more diversified. In the case of cleaning and scouring -ordinary steel you can use almost any good scouring powder, but not in -the case of the stainless rustless variety, as it reduces the polish, -the very thing that maintains imperviousness to rust and stain. Cutlery -should be cleaned immediately after using. - -Sharpening knives is best done by an expert. Yet there are good rotary -sharpeners and stones and steels for home usefulness or knife -destruction depending upon how they are used. Remember when you use a -stone not to feel that you must cut through the stone itself and that -what you are trying to do is to flatten the edge of the knife and wear -off the offending bluntnesses. The ideal thing is once or twice a year -to send the knives to a grinder and then occasionally at home run the -knife blade flatly over a carborundum stone to get a smoother edge. - -The stainless steel cutlery has a special kind of sharpening stone at -present on the market and it is well to use this. - -Good knives need no further edging when new. - -But though you may have the best steel and the best sharpening, if you -house your knives badly you will have lost all the good from these -things that there is. It is not good for knives to be huddled together. -They get as cutting as humans would in the same position. If they live -in a small place together without their own places they, as people, wear -on each other. They knick each other’s blades and spoil each other’s -usefulness. Knives should be hung or laid in grooves. A box is now made -for the proper housing of them. You can, too, hang each knife on a -spring which you can get at a hardware shop. If you reserve a tenement -house law for the knives of your household you will have real health and -help from them. - -The same story holds for forks. It would be a good thing to have a -_verboten_ sign in your kitchen, reading: “It is forbidden to open cans, -uncork bottles, unlock oven doors, pry open ice chests, take a nail out -of a box with the forks in this kitchen.” - -In the case of wooden handles, do not let them remain soaking in hot -water for ages. Wash and clean them at once. - - -FLOOR COVERINGS - -Floor coverings such as mattings and carpets are to-day best taken care -of by the vacuum cleaner. Hot water cloths with a suspicion of ammonia -laid on top of matting are supposed to be a good thing for its longevity -after it is vacuumed. - -Carpets are now coming back into being after years of retrogressive -hate. Now on account of the vacuum cleaner they can be used in all their -warmth and beauty and kept sanitary for ordinary uses by the vacuum -cleaner. Talking of this: - -The only thing that this instrument of redemption needs is oiling, but -not too often; an occasional dusting off; and the emptying of the dust -over something that doesn’t give it back. - -Stoves of themselves don’t get very dirty. It is the foods that are the -transgressors. It is wisest to clean all stoves when cold. Use kerosene -or stove black. In the case of the gas stove, when the gas vents become -clogged by drippings of food it is well at least once a week to take -them out and emerse in soda and water. Wipe off grease and grit before -cleaning surface of stove and always remove dirt at once. If grease is -removed after every using of the stove, it will be very easily -maintained in cleanliness and it will never run away with you. - -The trays under the burners in gas stoves should be cleaned often and -well. Burners of oil stoves, too, can be immersed in soda and water. -About one quart of water and one-quarter pound of soda make a good -cleaning solution. - - -SOME MISCELLANIES - -Don’t let any solid foods get into the sink. Always have a good sink -strainer. Soda and water is a good cleaner. Flush sink with hot water -and clean it at least three times a day. Grease is a forbidden quantity -in a sink and should any get in, the hot water flushing will -disintegrate it. Warm water and soap, fine powders such as whiting, -etc., will keep porcelain sinks in good order. - -Nickel can be cleaned with soap and water and polished with ungritty, -well devised polishes. Never use anything that will scratch it. - -Boil iron in soda and water, rub with some good powder with a bit of -scratch in it. Use hot soap suds. Dry while it is hot. - -Do not use soap on aluminum; there are regular aluminum cleaners on the -market. Occasionally only use a little acid, such as lemon or tomato -diluted. Never use soda. - -Boil agate in soda water. Wash in hot soap suds and dry. - -Use dilute oxalic acid for cleaning brass, fine powder, plenty of water. -Polish with metal polish which abounds on the present market. - -Tin can be cleaned with soda and water, but do not leave it in this -solution long, as the alkali will eat the tin. Wash and dry at once or -you will have rust on your tin ware. - -The silver story is long but well known. The only thing not to do is to -use gritty powders that will scratch. Wash your silver after cleaning, -as the cleaning mixtures do not make good appetizers. - -In caring for electric ironers and washing machines, first of all read -the directions that come with them. Oil as they tell you or don’t oil; -too much oil is bad and too little is bad. Do not overload (with -clothes) your cylinder or your drum; some motors rebel and there is -trouble. When buying your washer be sure to tell the electrician what -kind of electricity you consume, whether it is A C or D C; also the -voltage of your circuit. This applies to all electric machinery. - -Don’t leave your electricity on when you are not using a device. If you -do in the case of the iron, you will have fires and all kinds of -trouble. Don’t blame the machine for faults of your own. Remember in the -case of the electrical ironer that heat is hot and that if you leave a -piece of goods on the roll and the motor going you will burn your -article. - -These things are cleaned with warm water and polished and dusted in -accordance with the ordinary metal needs. There is little to say about -their upkeep except what has been said about other devices. Follow the -directions of the makers; they know the exigencies of their offspring. - -Soft cloths and warm water are best for cleaning white wood enamel. -Soaps yellow the enamel, so a few drops of ammonia added to a pail of -water will help banish grease. - -Warm water and soap or soda and warm water will clean off marble tops. - -In the long life-assurance of metals generally, it must be born in mind -that in order to keep them clean and bright things must be used that -will not scratch, corrode or roughen--or at least do as little of these -things as possible. In the case of silver cleaning the aluminum pan -method is best because there is less corrosion and less roughening. - -Rubbing with soft chamois and cloths after cleaning will give the metal -the polish it often needs. Buffing and the use of pumice powders and -pastes help along the better finishes. But these things all must be done -in moderation to preserve the life of these metals. The more precious -gold or silver must be treated of course with great care. Chemicals are -dangerous and the best acids are lemon and those things which cannot -poison. Many combinations are poisonous and must be used with discretion -and the article well washed before using. - -Were the space allotted for this story greater we could take up many -more things, but space being the rarest of commodities we shall have to -end with one last admonition: - -When your devices do not work, as guaranteed, first look to yourself or -assistant and see what is wrong. Then if you find you can absolve -yourself from the great transgression--carelessness or ignorance--it -will be time enough to attack the dealer and get redress. - - - - -CHAPTER XLIV - -A FEW SUGGESTIVE BOOKS - - -The following list is to give the reader a handle to the subjects -lightly touched in this volume. - - _The Home._ Charlotte Perkins Gilman, C. P. Gilman. - - _Housewifery._ I. R. Balderston, Lippincott. - - _The Business of the Household._ C. W. Taber, Lippincott. - - _The Principles and Practice of Plumbing._ C. C. Cosgrove, Standard - Plumbing Manufacturing Co., Pittsburg. - - _Sanitation Practically Applied._ H. G. Wood, John Wylie & Sons. - - _Kitchen Fire and How to Run It._ S. S. Wright, S.S. Wright. - - _Formulas for Soaps and Cleaning Compounds._ Automatic Electric Washer - Co., Newton, Iowa. - - _Electric Cooking, Heating and Cleaning._ Out of print but in - Libraries, Maud Lancaster, D. Van Nostrand Co. - - _Harpers’ Every Day Electricity._ Don Cameron Shafer, Harper. - - _Home Canning._ Creswell and Powell, U. S. Farmers’ Bulletin 853 - (Bureau of Agriculture). - - _Fuels for the Household._ Marion White, Whitcomb and Barrows. - - _Successful Drying Community Plant._ U. S. Dep’t. Agriculture Farmers’ - Bulletin 916. - - _Materials for the Household._ Circular 70, U. S. Dep’t. Bureau of - Standards. - - _Safety for the Household._ Circular 75, U. S. Dep’t. Bureau of - Standards. - - _The New Housekeeping._ Christine Fredericks, Doubleday Page. - - _Laundering at Home._ Six Bulletins, Stains, Supplies, Cottons, - Linens, Washing Machines and Ironing Equipment. Am. Washing Machine - Mfg. Assc., Chicago. - - _Little Houses._ Flagg. - - _House and Garden Homes._ Condé Nast Co. - - _Successful Homes and How to Build Them._ Francis White, Macmillan. - - _Hand Book of Cleaning._ Sarah McLeod, Harper Brothers. - - _Home and Community Hygiene._ Jean Broadhurst, J. B. Lippincott. - - _Preserving, Dehydration, etc._ Government Bulletins. - - _Modern Plumbing._ Starbuck, M. P. & F. Pub. Co. 200 5th Ave. - - _Home Laundering._ L. Ray Balderston, L. R. Balderston. - - _Domestic Engineering._ Plumbing, Heating Weekly Dec. 13-20--19. - - _Good Housekeeping Institute Engineering._ Good Housekeeping. - - _Vacuum Cleaning Systems._ M. S. Cooly, Heating and Ventilation - Magazine. - - _Chemistry._ Herman Vulté. - - _Chemistry and Physics._ May B. Arsdale, Dr. Woodhull. - - _Bureau of Building Bulletin_ 1922, N. Y. C. Municipal Building. U. S. - Government Bulletins on all home problems, see the list of the U. S. - bulletins on all home processes. - - _Building, Plumbing, Fire, etc._ Bulletin Bureau of Board of Standards - and Appeals, City of N. Y., Dec. 23, 1919. - - _Bulletin Bureau of Board of Standards and Appeals City of N. Y._ - Building, Plumbing, Fire etc., Dec. 23, 1919. - - _More Leisure Hours._ Louise Read--Society for Electric Development - Pamphlet, 522 Fifth Ave. - - _U. S. Government Pamphlets._ Bureau of Printing, Washington D. C. - (Sup. of Documents). - - _Electrical Record._ (_Magazine_) McGraw Hill Co. Inc. - - _Electrical Merchandising._ (_Magazine_) Gage Pub. Co., Inc. - - _Laundry Pamphlets._ Wallace B. Harts. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - The language used in the source document, including unusual, archaic, - inconsistent and erroneous spelling, hyphenation and capitalisation, - has been retained, except as mentioned below. The same applies to - grammatical errors, missing words and punctuation, confusing or - contradictory texts, the inappropriate use of units, etc. - - Neither spacing inconsistencies (for example between numbers and their - units) nor textual inconsistencies (for example in prices or in the - use of principal vs. principle) have been standardised. - - Page xxii, ... safe and sure insect ostracizer: the caption under the - illustration is ... safe and sane insect ostracizer. - - Page 6, cost calculation: as printed in the source document, despite - obvious errors and inconsistencies. Paragraph starting “It is - necessary when ordering a range ...: the closing quote mark is - lacking. - - Pages 100 and 104, see Plan 1: this was not present in the source - document. - - Page 131, ... mixture of 21 parts nitrogen, 79 parts of oxygen ...: - the proportions should be reversed, and should be read as parts per - 100 for nitrogen and oxygen, not per 10,000. - - Page 221, flavoring cream with or without condensed milk.: there may - be a comma missing between flavoring and cream. - - Page 221, ... (granites frozen by oscillation and frappés ...: the - closing bracket is lacking from the source document. - - Page 262, paragraph starting You are particularly interested ...: one - or more words may be missing. - - - Changes made: - - Illustrations have been moved out of text paragraphs. - - The (single) footnote has been moved to directly underneath the - paragraph to which it refers. - - Some obvious minor typographical and punctuation errors have been - corrected silently. - - Several tables have been split or re-arranged slightly for better - readability; in some tables ditto marks have been replaced with the - dittoed text. - - Page 8: ... a filament or tungsten ... changed to ... a filament of - tungsten .... - - Page 35: ... release on ringer ... changed to ... release on wringer - .... - - Page 36: ... six drying rods 66′ long ... changed to ... six drying - rods 66″ long .... - - Page 37: ... new avid air ... changed to ... new arid air .... - - Page 57: closing quote mark inserted after ... running and - installation costs? - - Page 68-69: ... a figure out of the unit ... changed to ... a figure - but of the unit .... - - Page 74: ... oven arrangement and unit system is so arranged ... - changed to ... oven arrangement and unit system are so arranged .... - - Illustration after page 74: _Courtesy of Brainhall Leane Co._ changed - to _Courtesy of Bramhall Deane Co._ - - Page 141, table: Branch wastes for slop sinks changed to Branch waste - for slop sinks. - - Page 245: ... is varnish and finish steamproof ... changed to ... is - varnished and finished steamproof .... - - Page 260: comma inserted after ... for they hold enough water - - Page 335: Heading Principles changed to PRINCIPLES. - - Page 359: Temperature effect densities ... changed to Temperature - affects densities .... - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |