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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 04:17:17 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 04:17:17 -0800 |
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diff --git a/old/67477-h/67477-h.htm b/old/67477-h/67477-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index d6251db..0000000 --- a/old/67477-h/67477-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4682 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - Manuals For the Many, by J. H. 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H. Payne</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Bee-keeping for the Many; or, The management of the common and Ligurian honey bee, including the selection of hives and a bee-keeper's calendar</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: J. H. Payne</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: February 22, 2022 [eBook #67477]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials made freely available at The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain.</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY; OR, THE MANAGEMENT OF THE COMMON AND LIGURIAN HONEY BEE, INCLUDING THE SELECTION OF HIVES AND A BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR ***</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 392px;"> - <img src="images/cover.png" width="392" height="593" alt="Manuals For the Many, by J. H. Payne" /> - -<p class="smaller tdc">MANUALS FOR THE MANY - No. III.<br /> -BEE-KEEPING. BY THE LATE J. H. PAYNE Esq.<br /> -THIRTIETH THOUSAND - PRICE FOURPENCE.<br /> -LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE<br /> -AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE,<br /> -171, FLEET ST. E.C.</p> -</div> - -<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc">Transcriber Note: Table of Contents added to assist reader</p> - - -<p class="pmt4 tdc">FIRST-CLASS ILLUSTRATED GARDENING PERIODICAL</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="wavyline" style="width: 174px;"> - <img src="images/wavyline.png" width="174" height="19" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="tdc"><i>Published Weekly, Price 3d.; Stamped, 3<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>d.</i></p> - -<p class="tdc">THE</p> - -<p class="caption2">JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE,</p> - -<p class="tdc">COTTAGE GARDENER, COUNTRY GENTLEMAN,</p> - -<p class="caption3">BEE-KEEPER, AND POULTRY CHRONICLE.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="tdc">EDITED BY</p> - -<p class="caption4nb">G. W. JOHNSON, F.R.H.S., & ROBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.L.S.</p> - -<p class="tdc"><i>Assisted by a Staff of the best Writers on Practical Gardening and -other Rural Pursuits connected with the Household.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">This</span> long-established and widely circulating Journal consists of -Thirty-two Pages of Letter-press, with occasional Supplements of -eight additional Pages; and is richly Illustrated with Wood Engravings -in the highest style of the Art.</p> - -<p>The subjects treated on embrace every department of Gardening, -and Rural and Domestic Economy, the leading object being to render -this Journal a welcome guest in every country home.</p> - -<p>Natural History and Botany, so far as they relate to Gardening and -Husbandry, are amply treated on, and embrace Zoology, Geology, -Mineralogy, Meteorology, and Physiological, Structural, Systematic, -and Popular Botany.</p> - -<p>Biographies and Portraits of the most celebrated Horticulturists.</p> - -<p>Reviews of New Books relating to the above subjects; Reports of -Horticultural and Poultry Societies' Meetings throughout the country; -and Scientific Notices.</p> - -<p>To Advertisers the Journal of Horticulture will be found a valuable -and effective medium, from its extensive circulation among the middle -and upper classes.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="tdc"><span class="smcap">A Specimen Number</span> sent by Post for 3<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub><i>d.</i> Stamps.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="tdc"><b>OFFICE: 171, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C.</b></p> - -<p class="pmb4"><i>To be had of all Booksellers, and at the Railway Stalls; or direct from -the Office on prepayment of the following terms:—One Quarter, -3s. 9 d.; Half Year, 7s. 6d.; One Year, 15s.</i></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">- 1 -</span></p> - -<h1 class="nobreak">BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY;</h1> - -<p class="caption2nb"><span class="vsmall">OR</span><br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE MANAGEMENT OF THE</span><br /> - -COMMON AND LIGURIAN HONEY BEE,<br /> - -<span class="vsmall">INCLUDING</span><br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE SELECTION OF HIVES</span><br /> - -<span class="vsmall">AND</span><br /> - -<span class="smaller">A BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR.</span></p> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 119px;"> - <img src="images/bar_ooo.png" width="119" height="19" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<h2>By J. H. PAYNE, Esq.</h2> - -<p class="pmb2 tdc">A NEW EDITION REVISED AND ENLARGED BY THE<br /> -EDITORS OF THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE.</p> - - -<table summary="logo"> -<tr> - <td><b>THIRTIETH</b></td> - <td><img src="images/logo.png" width="131" height="129" alt="" /></td> - <td><b>THOUSAND</b>.</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<p class="pmt2 pmb4 tdc">LONDON:<br /> - -<span class="larger">JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE OFFICE,</span><br /> - -171, FLEET STREET.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">- 2 -</span></p> - - -<p class="pmt2 pmb4 bdt tdc">LONDON<br /> - -PRINTED AT THE HORTICULTURAL PRESS.<br /> - -<span class="smcap">171, Fleet Street.</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">- 3 -</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" >BEE-KEEPING FOR THE MANY.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 119px;"> - <img src="images/bar_ooo.png" width="119" height="19" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<h2>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table class="tblcont" summary="Contents"> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Natural History</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#NATURAL_HISTORY">3</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Situation of the Apiary</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#SITUATION_OF_THE_APIARY">5</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Hives</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#HIVES">6</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Payne's Improved Cottage Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#PAYNES_IMPROVED_COTTAGE_HIVE">6</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Neighbour's Improved Cottage Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#NEIGHBOURS_OBSERVATORY_HIVE">8</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Neighbour's Observatory Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#NEIGHBOURS_OBSERVATORY_HIVE">9</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Taylor's Amateurs' Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#TAYLORS_AMATEURS_HIVE">10</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Fenn's Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#FENNS_HIVE">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Stewarton Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_STEWARTON_HIVE">13</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Tegetmeier's Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#TEGETMEIERS_HIVE">14</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Woodbury Hive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_WOODBURY_HIVE">15</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Method of Securing Combs in Frames</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#METHOD_OF_SECURING_COMBS_IN_FRAMES">19</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Swarming</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#SWARMING">20</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Uniting Swarms</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#UNITING_SWARMS">23</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Ventilation</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#VENTILATION">24</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Feeding</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#FEEDING">25</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Manner of Taking Honey</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#MANNER_OF_TAKING_HONEY">28</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Stupifying Bees</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#STUPIFYING_BEES">29</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Method of Draining Honey from the Combs</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#METHOD_OF_DRAINING_HONEY_FROM_THE_COMBS">29</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Preparation of Wax</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#PREPARATION_OF_WAX">30</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Mead</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#MEAD">30</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Honey Vinegar</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#HONEY_VINEGAR">31</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Remedies For the Sting of a Bee</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#REMEDIES_FOR_THE_STING_OF_A_BEE">31</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bee Dress</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#BEE_DRESS">32</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Purchasing Stocks</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#PURCHASING_STOCKS">32</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Ligurian Or Yellow Alp Bee</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_LIGURIAN_OR_YELLOW_ALP_BEE">32</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">To Unite a Ligurian Queen to a Common Stock Or Swarm</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#TO_UNITE_A_LIGURIAN_QUEEN_TO_A_COMMON_STOCK_OR_SWARM">34</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Multiplying Swarms of Ligurians</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#MULTIPLYING_SWARMS_OF_LIGURIANS">35</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bee-keeper's Calendar</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#BEE-KEEPERS_CALENDAR">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">January</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#JAN">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">February</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#FEB">38</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">March</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#MAR">40</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">April</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#APR">42</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">May</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#MAY">46</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">June</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#JUN">50</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">July</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#JUL">53</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">August</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#AUG">55</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">September</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#SEP">59</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">October</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#OCT">61</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">November</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#NOV">63</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl2">December</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#DEC">65</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Index</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#INDEX">69</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NATURAL_HISTORY">NATURAL HISTORY.</h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> following brief but comprehensive epitome of the principal -facts in the natural history of the Honey Bee is from the -pen of Mr. Woodbury, of Exeter, better known to the readers -of <span class="smcap">The Journal of Horticulture</span> as "<span class="smcap">A Devonshire Bee-keeper</span>."</p> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">The Queen.</span>—There is in every prosperous colony of Bees a -queen, or mother Bee, whose peculiar office is to lay the eggs -from which the future Bees proceed. Her fecundity is amazing, -it being computed that she is capable of laying from 1500 to -2000 eggs a-day.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> She receives the greatest attention and -respect from the other Bees; none of them appear willing to turn -their backs upon her, but all are watchful to offer food and anticipate -her every want. The cells in which queens are reared -differ very considerably from those of the workers or drones, -being much larger, and hanging in nearly a perpendicular position, -generally from the edges of the combs. Queen Bees -occupy about sixteen days from the laying of the egg to the -evolution of the perfect insect, and take wing when a few days -old, in order to pair with a male Bee or drone. When once -fecundated, a queen Bee continues fertile during the remainder -of her life. According to Huber, fecundation is imperfect when -delayed beyond twenty days, and drone eggs only are laid ever -afterwards; but the observations and experiments of Dzierzon -and Berlepsch, which have been confirmed by Yon Siebold, the -distinguished German naturalist, prove that this phenomenon is -rather to be ascribed to parthenogenesis, and that a drone-breeding -queen is in reality a virgin queen. I have myself succeeded -in repeating and verifying the microscopical investigations of -Von Siebold, which establish this remarkable fact beyond the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">- 4 -</span> -possibility of a doubt. Queen Bees are readily distinguished by -their larger size, being fully one-third longer than the common -Bees, and are armed with a sting, which, however, they rarely -use, except in combat with one another.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Queen Bees of the Ligurian species are stated to lay as many as -2000 to 3000 eggs per diem.</p> - -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">The Workers</span> are imperfect females. There is no doubt that -every worker egg or grub not more than a few days old is capable, -by appropriate treatment, of becoming developed into a -perfect female or mother Bee. If the queen is removed from a -hive the Bees avail themselves of this power by enlarging certain -worker cells, and raising therefrom queens which differ in -no respect from those bred in the usual manner.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> When this -interruption of the ordinary course of things has taken place, it -is occasionally found that the ovaries of some of the workers -have become sufficiently developed to admit of their depositing -drone eggs, although Yon Siebold declares them to be perfectly -incapable of pairing with the male. The workers constitute the -great majority in every healthy colony, and upon them devolves -the labour of collecting honey for the subsistence of all, pollen -for feeding the young, and propolis for stopping any crevice -which might harbour an enemy. They are also occupied in -secreting wax,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> building combs, feeding the young and the -queen, as well as guarding and ventilating the hive. Huber -noticed two kinds of working Bees, which he denominated respectively -nurses and wax-workers. This division of the workers -into two classes has evoked ridicule from some, and has been -regarded with incredulity by many. My own observations prove, -however, that there really is a division of labour among Bees, -and that whilst the younger portion of the community devote -themselves to the home duties of the hive, their elders are employed -in ranging the woods and fields to provide sustenance for -the entire family. Workers arrive at maturity in about twenty-one -days from the laying of the egg.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Advantage is taken of this remarkable fact in the formation of artificial -swarms, c.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> Wax is a secretion from the body of the Bee, and not a material -conveyed into the hive. In order to form wax Bees must have access -hitherto honey or some other saccharine substance.</p> - -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">The Drones</span> are males which take no part in the duties of the -hive, and whose use appears to be that of fecundation. They -are allowed to exist only during summer, when they are very -numerous, apparently out of all proportion to the perfect females. -But this apparent disproportion is only a means to secure the important -end, that when a queen takes her wedding flights she -may have a good chance of attaining her object. Although the -drones are much larger and stronger than the workers, they have -no stings wherewith to defend themselves, and are thrust out of -the hive to perish when their office is accomplished. They mature -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">- 5 -</span> -in about twenty-four days after the egg is laid and are bred -in larger cells than the workers."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SITUATION_OF_THE_APIARY">SITUATION OF THE APIARY.</h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Aspect.</span>—I will commence by giving the aspect best suited -for the Bees to be placed in. I have tried all aspects, and -have no hesitation in saying that the south is the best. -Bee-houses of all kinds I very much dislike; many hives are -ruined by them; they are expensive in the first place, and they -form a shelter for their worst enemies, mice, moths, spiders, -&c., and not the least, <i>dampness</i>, which is ruinous to them. I -would recommend the hives being placed south, or as nearly so -as may be convenient; if at all varying from it, give them a -little inclination to the east, and be sure to place them so that -they have the morning sun, for the honey-gathering for the day -usually finishes by two o'clock; therefore an hour in the -morning is of much importance to the Bees, as well as to their -proprietors. Another inconvenience arising from Bee-houses -is that several hives being placed upon the same board encourages -pilfering, and renders it almost impossible to operate -upon one hive without disturbing the whole.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_01" style="width: 191px;"> - <img src="images/fig_01.png" width="191" height="235" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 1.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stand for Hive.</span>—Having, therefore, for these reasons, -recommended the abandonment of Bee-houses altogether, I -would say, Place each hive upon -r separate board supported by a -single pedestal 4 or 5 inches in -diameter—a piece of wood with -the bark on does remarkably -well; place it firmly in the -ground, and about 15 inches from -its surface. Upon the top of this -post should be nailed firmly a -piece of board 8 or 9 inches -square, upon which should be -placed the board the hive stands -upon, but not united to it, so -that the hive may be removed -whenever required without disturbing the Bees.</p> - -<p>Clay or mortar should never -be used to fasten the hive to the board; the Bees will do that -in a much more effectual manner themselves, with a substance -they collect from resinous trees called propolis. Mortar or clay -tends very much to decay the hives; and hives managed on this -principle are expected to stand for fifteen or even twenty years. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">- 6 -</span> -Let the hives be placed about 3 feet apart from each other, -and in a right line. The best covering, as a protection from -rain, is a large flat earthen pan (a milk-pan) sufficiently large -to prevent the drip from falling upon the board. It would in -all cases be well to give them the shelter of a wall or fence -from the north, but on no account place them close to it, but -leave a space of 4 or 5 feet at least for a path; for the operations -of taking off small hives, glasses, or boxes of honey, are -much more conveniently effected at the back than in the front -of the hives. It would be well to clean the boards on which -the hives stand four times in the year—namely, in January, -March, April, and November. January and March are the most -important.</p> - -<p>The place where the hives are fixed should be kept clear of -weeds; and plants which rise in height equal to or exceeding -the entrance of the hives should not be suffered to grow near -them.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="HIVES">HIVES.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>I am more and more convinced, from experience, that Bees -do much better in broad, shallow hives, than in any others. All -the hives that I have used myself for the last three years, and -those that I have had made for the last two, have been of this -kind—namely, 7 inches deep, and 14 inches wide, measuring in -the inside. The only inconvenience that can possibly arise from -a hive of this shape is, that from the great weight of supers -which year after year it will have to bear, the top will sink a -little; therefore it should never be used without an adapting-board -of 12 inches square; this will take the weight of the -supers from the centre to the side of the hive; indeed, it would -be better to let the adapting-board remain a fixture upon -the hive when once fastened down by the Bees, and should -the corners at all interfere with the cover, where the milk-pan -is used, they may be rounded off a little to the size of the -hive.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PAYNES_IMPROVED_COTTAGE_HIVE">PAYNE'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>With regard to the materials of which hives are made, I -believe it to be a matter of indifference whether straw or wood -be used, but the facility and economy in the construction of -straw hives must always be a recommendation, especially to the -cottager. Having, therefore, decided upon the materials for cottagers' -hives, their form must now be considered. For straw -hives I would recommend the following size:—7 inches deep -and 14 in diameter; straight at the sides and flat at the top; -in shape like a half-bushel measure. A hole should be made -in the top 4 inches in diameter, and a piece of straw-work, like -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">- 7 -</span> -that of which the hive is made, large enough to cover it, must -be fastened over the hole; not to fit in, but to cover <i>over</i> it.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_02" style="width: 238px;"> - <img src="images/fig_02.png" width="238" height="323" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 2.</div> -</div> - -<p>It is better to have a -groove made in the floor-board for an entrance than -to cut a piece out of the -hive. The entrance should -be 3 inches wide by three-eighths of an inch high, -to which affix a piece of -copper or zinc, about -6 inches long by 3 inches -wide, having a groove to -admit two sliding plates, -one perforated, and the -other having a hole large -enough to allow but one -Bee to come out at a time.</p> - -<p>Great advantages arise -from this little apparatus; -the perforated slider is used -to confine the Bees to their -hive when snow lies upon -the ground, which entices -them out, and they perish; it is useful, also, when feeding -becomes necessary, to exclude all intruders. The other slider -is used both in spring and autumn, preventing either robbers -or wasps from entering; for three or four Bees, with the help -of this slider, can guard the entrance more effectually than ten -times that number without it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_03" style="width: 346px;"> - <img src="images/fig_03.png" width="346" height="132" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 3.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Supply of Hives.</span>—To those persons who are disposed to -adopt the very simple method of managing their Bees that I -have for so many years successfully followed, I would say, Procure -a supply of <i>Payne's Improved Cottage Hives</i>; also of small -hives, 8 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep, flat at the top -with a bit of glass in one side covered by a shutter. This hive -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">- 8 -</span> -is in shape the same as the large one, and with a hole in the top -covered with a piece of straw-work in the same manner.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_04" style="width: 407px;"> - <img src="images/fig_04.png" width="407" height="253" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 4.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_05" style="width: 147px;"> - <img src="images/fig_05.png" width="147" height="118" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 5.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Boxes and Bell-Glasses.</span>—Should boxes be preferred, those -which I use are made of inch-thick deal, 9 inches square, and -8 inches deep—inside measure; with a -piece of glass 6 inches by 7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>, let in on one -side, and covered by a shutter to exclude -the light. Bell-glasses may also be used -with equal success if the light be effectually -excluded. I usually put on a bell-glass -first, and when partially filled, raise it up -and place between it and the parent hive -the small hive or box above described. I -say <i>partially</i> filled, because, if allowed to remain till filled, the -Bees would very probably swarm, which the additional room and -ventilation given them, by placing either the box or small hive -between the glass and parent hive, will prevent.</p> - -<div class="figleft" id="fig_06" style="width: 100px;"> - <img src="images/fig_06.png" width="100" height="101" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 6.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Adapting-Board.</span>—A good supply of adapting-boards must -also be in readiness. They should be made of -mahogany, for it will allow of being worked very -thin, without the risk of warping when used. -They are a quarter of an inch in thickness (<i>this is -important</i>), 12 inches square, with a circular hole -in the middle 4 inches in diameter.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NEIGHBOURS_IMPROVED_COTTAGE_HIVE">NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figleft" id="fig_07" style="width: 221px;"> - <img src="images/fig_07.png" width="221" height="290" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 7.</div> -</div> - -<p>I would say that it consists of a straw, circular, lower compartment, -having three windows and outside shutters; a thermometer -is fixed across the centre window, so that the Bees -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">- 9 -</span> -cannot work between it and the glass, and thus intercept the -view of the graduated scale. -This little thermometer is found -to be a useful appendage, as it -affords to the apiarian a correct -indication of the state of the -hive at all seasons of the -year. This lower or stock hive -rests on a stout wooden floor, -at least 2 inches in thickness, -projecting in front as a landing-place for the Bees, which enter -under the hoop attached to the -straw, by means of a sunken -way; the <i>hoop</i> is used to overcome the uneven surface of the -straw, as well as to give durability to the hive. The top is -also of wood, having three or -more circular openings, of about -3 inches diameter, to receive as many glasses.</p> - -<p>In the top of each glass is a small hole, through which a tube -of perforated zinc is suspended, upon which guide-combs may -be fixed; it also forms a convenient support, to which the Bees -attach their combs. Over the glasses is placed a cover of straw -(also <i>hoop</i>-bound), closely fitting the top of the stock hive, and -secured by means of thumb-screws, so that it can be removed -with great facility, to allow of inspection or operations. This -straw cover is surmounted by a ventilator, forming a neat finish, -and by which the temperature of the glasses may be regulated.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NEIGHBOURS_OBSERVATORY_HIVE">NEIGHBOUR'S OBSERVATORY HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Is of very stout glass, with an opening at the top of about -2 inches diameter, over which a small glass may be placed when -necessary. The large, or stock hive, stands on a mahogany floor-board, -with a circular sinking to receive it; there are holes in the -floor-board, covered with perforated zinc, for the purpose of ventilation. -Within the hive, on an upright support rising from the -floor-board, are arranged, in parallel lines at right angles, eight -bars of about an inch wide, leaving a space next the glass all -round, to which the bees in the first instance attach their combs, -guide combs having been placed upon them. There is a cover -made of straw for the whole, which reaches the floor-board, and -can be raised at pleasure; a landing-place, projecting as usual, -with a sunken way to allow the Bees egress and ingress, which -completes the contrivance.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">- 10 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TAYLORS_AMATEURS_HIVE">TAYLOR'S AMATEURS' HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Having thus far given my plan for managing Bees in the -<i>Improved Cottage Hive</i>, I would now address a few words to the -amateur, for the purpose of recommending to his attention one -of the 'best amateur's hives that I have ever seen. It was invented -by Mr. Taylor, author of "The Bee-keeper's Manual," -and is called "Taylor's Amateurs' Bar Hive."</p> - -<p>By the introduction of <i>bars</i> each comb is made available, -whether for separate extraction or for experimental purposes. -Indeed, in this hive both the Bees and their store are at all -times completely under the command of their proprietors. From -this hive fine honey may be obtained, swarming effectually prevented, -and artificial swarms, when required, insured. I was -kindly favoured with one of the above hives from the inventor in -time to have a swarm hived into it on the 28th of May. In -about three weeks from that time, I found it necessary to put on -the upper box; and early in September I took it off, containing -30 lbs. of the finest honeycomb, yet leaving a full supply in the -lower or stock-box for the Bees during the winter and spring. -Another great advantage from this hive, above all others, is, that -<i>a comb may be extracted at any time</i>, which, where glasses or -boxes are used, cannot be done; these must be filled before they -are removed, or much loss of time is occasioned to the Bees.</p> - -<p>Having already described the hive I most approve of, I will -now give a description of a newly-invented one of my own. -Convinced, as I have for some time been, of the many advantages -arising from having every hive fitted with bars, I have at length -constructed a <i>square straw hive</i> of that kind, which, from its -inexpensiveness, I trusted would have come within the reach of -almost every cottager; but since putting together the little items -of cost for its several parts I fear that I am mistaken, for it can -cost but little, if any, less than 8<i>s.</i> The hive, as I have already -said, is of <i>straw</i>, and perfectly <i>square</i>, 13<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches by 13<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>, fitted -with eight bars of 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub> inch wide, with a cover of wood—the -bars are kept in their places by zinc fittings. The openings in -the crown-board are so placed as to allow of one large glass, or -two or three small ones, being worked. It is protected from the -weather by a milk-pan only in the winter, and in the summer, -whilst glasses are on (which may be covered with an old hive), by -a milk-pan and zinc shade. From the facility given by the bars -to renew the combs, this hive may be expected to stand for many -years: therefore, two or three coats of paint should be given it -before the Bees are put into it, and an additional one every year -or two afterwards; and, as a further means of preserving it from -decay, the floor-board should be the exact size of the hive, so that -the drip from the milk-pan clears it. A slight projecture in front<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span> -for alighting must of course be allowed; but by a careful adjustment -of the milk-pan the drip may be made to escape this also.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FENNS_HIVE">FENN'S HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>There is an admirable hive contrived by Mr. Robert Fenn, of -Woodstock, described in the <i>Journal of Horticulture</i>, and which -has proved one of the best of what may be called "cottage hives." -It consists of a straw hive, <a href="#fig_13"><i>fig. 13</i>, 3</a>, 16 inches in diameter, -11 inches deep, straight-sided, quite flat on the top, the permanent -mahogany adapting board having a central hole about 3 inches in -diameter, over which is placed a thinnish round of plaited straw, -slightly secured with wall nails, though sufficiently so to prevent -the egress of the Bees. Two pieces of hard-wood sticks run completely -and centrally through at right angles to support the comb. -The central hole of the adapter, <a href="#fig_09"><i>fig. 9</i></a>, is fitted with a moveable -round piece of thin deal that fits exactly to the size of the hole, -and this is supported by four pins that are let into the sides of -the hole, and project about one-eighth of an inch, so as to allow -the flap to rest upon them. The edges of the rounded flap are -cutaway as represented <a href="#fig_09"><i>fig. 9</i></a>, so as to leave openings between -the flap and the adapter of not more than one-quarter of an inch, -which will admit the worker Bees to ascend upwards, but not -the queen or the drones. Two other openings may be cut not -quite one-quarter of an inch broad, and three-quarters of an -inch from the sides. Two rows of holes may be bored, or a -slit too narrow to allow a Bee to pass, may be formed along the -centre of the flap to act as an air-passage. A strip of paper -pasted to the flap and the adapter will form a sort of house. -Paste another piece of adhesive on at the opposite end of the flap -only. When the permanent adapting board is placed—for it is -never removed during the honey-gathering season—upon the -hive, take off the small round piece of plaited straw from the top -central hole, and quickly place a glass tumbler inverted over the -hole, which effectually prevents a Bee from escaping to place -itself in jeopardy or to annoy the operator. Then if the top of -the hive is at all sunken, which is frequently the case, have -small deal fillets (<a href="#fig_08"><i>fig. 8</i></a>), a trifle wider in diameter than the -central hole of the adapter, and of various depths, -to slip over the tumbler, and a wind of cotton wadding -also to lay nearly around the outside circumference -on the top of the hive.</p> - -<div class="figleft" id="fig_08" style="width: 77px;"> - <img src="images/fig_08.png" width="77" height="73" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 8.</div> -</div> - -<p>Then place on the permanent adapting board (<i>fig. 9</i>), when the -tumbler will obtrude itself up through the flaphole, -and no insect will ever be able to pass the cotton -wadding one way, nor, by reason of the fillet, will the Bees be -able to go between the hive and the adapter on the other. Now -moisten the end of the adhesive paper, quickly take away the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span> -tumbler, down with the flap, press the adhesive paper on to the -board, and place the super-board (<a href="#fig_10"><i>fig, 10</i></a>), which must have a -flap in its centre to exactly correspond with the one below. Two -guide pencil-marks on each board, previously marked, will point -out their proper positions; and by reason of these duplicate -openings in the flaps it will be seen by illustration to admit of -two glasses (<a href="#fig_10">fig. 10 <i>a a</i></a>), being worked in lieu of one, which is -another great point gained in a good and early honey season. -Now slip a carpet-bag over the glasses to keep them warm, and -the super-over-hive over that; and then cover the whole with a -brown glazed milk-pan.</p> - -<table summary="supers"> -<tr> - <td> -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_09" style="width: 195px;"> - <img src="images/fig_09.png" width="195" height="186" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 9.</div> -</div> - </td><td> -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_10" style="width: 202px;"> - <img src="images/fig_10.png" width="202" height="194" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 10.</div> -</div> - </td> -</tr> -</table> - -<div class="figleft" id="fig_11" style="width: 153px;"> - <img src="images/fig_11.png" width="153" height="86" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 11.</div> -</div> - -<p><a href="#fig_11"><i>Fig. 11</i></a> is a second small super-board to correspond with the -above, excepting that the central hole remains without a flap; -for, unless double supers are worked -throughout the season, a third flap is -unnecessary, and the super 3 inches high -or so, and of any diameter one likes -coming within the measurement of the -board, is of wood, glass, or straw. These -are mostly fig-drums cut in halves, or at -least to the required depth, having a piece of glass let -nearest the board, so as to admit of one's seeing when the Bees -have nearly completed their combs, and are ready for another. -When the time arrives, when it will be seen by examination -that the Bees have nearly completed their honey-combs in the -glasses, and are in want of more room; all that one has to do to -accommodate them is merely to lift up board and glasses, -<a href="#fig_10"><i>fig. 10</i></a>, slip a board and super and fillet on top in its place, -<a href="#fig_11"><i>fig. 11</i></a>, and set <a href="#fig_10"><i>fig. 10</i></a> on the top of it, which will then represent -<a href="#fig_13"><i>fig. 13</i></a>. The narrow fillet will prevent the board from coming -flush down on the top of the newly-inserted super, which has -a hole of only about 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inch in diameter in its top; a second -small super-board would answer this same purpose—viz., leave -a vacuum there for the Bees to ascend to complete the sealing-over -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span> -of their combs in the glasses, which they will presently do, -and till when, of course, the pieces of carpeting and super-over-hive -is reinstated.</p> - -<p>Payne's straw supers are generally used for the third removes. -They cost there about 1<i>s.</i> each of Mr. Major in the Traverse, -Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk.</p> - -<table summary="supers"> -<tr> - <td> -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_12" style="width: 201px;"> - <img src="images/fig_12.png" width="201" height="185" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 12.</div> -</div> - </td><td> -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_13" style="width: 241px;"> - <img src="images/fig_13.png" width="241" height="466" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 13.</div> -</div> - </td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><a href="#fig_12"><i>Fig. 12</i></a> is the super-over-hive, a foot deep, and about 14 inches -inside diameter. Holes are worked in their tops, about 3 inches -in diameter, the same as for the Bee hives, to allow the foul air -to circulate up and away, or the top may be omitted altogether -as is represented in engraving.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_STEWARTON_HIVE">THE STEWARTON HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>During the last few years there have been great changes -introduced in the form and arrangements of Bee hives, which -have met with the highest approval of our best practical -apiarians. Of these we shall just notice those which have -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span> -come in for the greatest share of favour, and which are obtainable -at a price which is within the means of persons of ordinary -income.</p> - -<p>The Stewarton Hive may be said to have revolutionised the -whole system of storifying bar hives. It has been in use for -many years in Ayrshire, and their introduction to the south is -due to the late Mr. Eaglesham, of Stewarton—an enthusiastic -and very successful apiarian</p> - -<p>These hives consist of boxes of an octagonal shape, three of -which are set one upon the other and constitute a hive. The -inside measure is 13<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches across from side to side, or from -back to front. The height of the box, measured inside, is -5<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches. The bottom is perfectly open. The top is quite flat, -and consists of seven fixed bars, each 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inch wide, placed parallel -to each other in the direction from back to front. The spaces -between the bars are three-eighths of an inch wide, and are -capable of being closed by strips of wood, which slide in grooves -made in the sides of the bars, and which can readily be drawn -out behind when required. Across the middle of each box, at -half its height, is a cross bar serving to support the comb. -Windows with sliding shutters are placed in the back and front -of each box, and an entrance is cut out of the front, 3 inches in -width by half an inch in height, with a slide to close it to any -required extent. In addition to the set of three boxes, a shallow -honey-box 3<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches in depth, and without an entrance in the -front, but otherwise made in precisely the same manner, is used -as a super. These boxes being used on the storifying system, -they are furnished with buttons and hooks for the purpose of -securing them together.</p> - -<p>The general outline of the management is as follows:—A -swarm is hived into two boxes communicating with each other. -When these are nearly filled with comb a honey-box is placed -above, neatly furnished with guide-combs on the bars. When -the Bees are fairly at work in the honey-box, the third body box -may be added below to give increased room and prevent swarming. -In the winter this third box is removed, and the comb it -contains left in, as it possesses a value well known to every -skilled Bee-keeper. Feeding when required is liberally pursued, -enough being given at once in the autumn to last till spring. -The feeding-box, 8 inches square by 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inch deep, is divided -by strips of wood into divisions half an inch wide. This is -placed on the top of the hive, covered over with a box, and the -slides withdrawn to permit the Bees to ascend to the food.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TEGETMEIERS_HIVE">TEGETMEIER'S HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>A modification of the Stewarton boxes was proposed by Mr. -Tegetmeier, who adopted the square forms instead of the octagonal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span> -and which certainly has this advantage over its prototype, -that the moveable bars will fit any place in any box. The -Stewarton may be described as consisting of two or more storifying-boxes, -each furnished with seven loose bars to which the combs -are attached. These are kept in their places by eight slides, which, -when in position, render the loose bars perfect fixtures, so that -the boxes may be inverted without the bars or slides losing their -position. The size of Mr. Tegetmeier's boxes was originally -11<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches square inside, and of two sizes in depth—viz., 7 inches -and 5 inches, but now he recommends them to be 13<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches -square inside by 11 inches deep, each containing eight frames.</p> - -<p>The plan of working the Stewarton and Tegetmeier boxes is -the same. A very strong swarm, or two weak ones, are placed -in two boxes, and when these are well filled, as may be seen by -looking through the window behind, a honey box or glass is -placed over, and communication made by withdrawing the slides.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_WOODBURY_HIVE">THE WOODBURY HIVE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Best, by far the best, of all this form of the bar hive, is that -introduced by Mr. Woodbury, who has done so -much of late to extend -our knowledge of, and acquaintance with, the habits -of the Bee.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_14" style="width: 262px;"> - <img src="images/fig_14.png" width="262" height="210" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 14.</div> -</div> - -<p>The following is Mr. -Woodbury's own description of the hive, as it appeared in the <i>Journal of -Horticulture</i>:—</p> - -<p>"In compliance with the -wishes of numerous correspondents, I have much -pleasure in submitting to the readers of the <i>Journal of Horticulture</i>, -a description of my frame hives, supers, and outer cases, as at -present in use in my apiary.</p> - -<p>"Frame Hives are made of inch wood, 14<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches square, and -9 inches deep inside, dovetailed and put together with paint, the -ends of the dovetails being pinned through with stout iron wire -driven from the top and bottom, and meeting in the centre. A -window 7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches long by 4 deep affords a slight view of the -interior from the back (not the front as engraved), but is much -obstructed by the frames. The crown-board which is raised in -the engraving, <a href="#fig_14"><i>fig. 14</i></a>, is keyed to prevent warping, and is -secured by four long brass screws passing through the ends -of the keys. A two-inch central hole for feeding is the only -aperture, and this is closed when not in use by a circular<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span> -block of one-and-a-quarter-inch wood 5 inches in diameter. A -three-eighth rabbet is cut out of the top inner edge at the back -and front, and below this are notches seven-eighths wide by -three-eighths deep, in which rest the ends of the frames. This -arrangement affords the Bees a free passage above the frames -as well as below and at their sides. The annexed sketch, <a href="#fig_15"><i>fig. 15</i></a>, -of the interior angle of one of my hives is drawn the full size, -and will serve as a guide for the arrangement of the frames, -which are ten in number, and are placed at equal distances -apart.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_15" style="width: 464px;"> - <img src="images/fig_15.png" width="464" height="268" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 15.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_16" style="width: 311px;"> - <img src="images/fig_16.png" width="311" height="184" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 16.</div> -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Compound Bar-frame.</span>—This is a contrivance of my own, -which I have found -very advantageous -in enabling me to -use frames in stock -hives and bars in -supers without forfeiting the advantages arising from -the unlimited interchangeability of -every comb in every -hive and super in -the apiary. Its construction -will be readily understood by an inspection of the annexed -sketch, <a href="#fig_16"><i>fig. 16</i></a>, in which the comb-bar is shown slightly -raised from its frame. The bar itself is 13<sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches long by -seven-eighths wide and three-eighths thick; these dimensions -must be rigidly adhered to, as <i>every comb-bar should fit every hive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span> -and super in the apiary</i>.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The slips of wood forming the frame -are seven-eighths of an inch wide and five-sixteenths of an inch -thick, with the exception of the projections at the top, which are -the same thickness as the bars, and are five-eighths of an inch -long. When the comb-bar is in its place the whole forms a frame -13 inches long by 7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inches high (inside measure), with a five-eighth -projection at each end, which rests in its appropriate -notch in either the back or front of the hive. The accompanying -engraving, <a href="#fig_17"><i>fig. 17</i></a>, represents the frame -filled with comb, in which state the -bar becomes so firmly cemented to the -frame as to admit of its being handled -with the greatest facility.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> It is a good plan to commence by making a pattern bar of mahogany, -which should be taken are of and used as a guide whenever comb-bars -are required.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_17" style="width: 170px;"> - <img src="images/fig_17.png" width="170" height="92" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 17.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_18" style="width: 148px;"> - <img src="images/fig_18.png" width="148" height="87" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 18.</div> -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Improved Comb-bar.</span>—This little -contrivance has proved very effectual -in securing straight combs when guide-combs are not attainable. -The annexed sketch, <a href="#fig_18"><i>fig. 18</i></a>, is a section of the new -bar. It will be perceived that the lower angles are rounded -off; whilst a central rib is added of about an eighth of an inch in -breadth and depth. This central rib extends to within half an -inch of each end, where it is removed in -order to admit of the bar fitting into the -usual notch. All that is necessary to insure -the regular formation of combs is to coat -the underneath surface of the central rib -with melted wax. My practice is to use -plain bars whenever guide-combs are attainable -as these can be attached with much greater facility to a -plain than to a ribbed bar; but whenever I put in a bar without -comb I always use one of the improved ones. By this method -crooked and irregular combs are altogether unknown in my -apiary.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_19" style="width: 317px;"> - <img src="images/fig_19.png" width="317" height="171" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 19.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span></p> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Floor-boards.</span>—My floor-boards are made of one-and-a-quarter-inch -wood, keyed to prevent warping, are 18 inches -square, and show a projection of about an inch beyond the exterior -of the hive, from which they are chamfered down on all sides -nearly three-eighths of an inch. An entrance 3 inches or 4 inches -wide is cut in front out of the substance of the board commencing -at the edge, and continuing on the same level until inside the -hive, where it slopes upwards. The entrance formed in this -manner is five-sixteenths of an inch in height where the hive -crosses it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_20" style="width: 340px;"> - <img src="images/fig_20.png" width="340" height="392" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 20.</div> -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Alighting-boards</span> are moveable, being attached to the floor-boards -by means of a couple of pins of stout wire; they are made -from a piece of a silk-roller, 2 inches in diameter by 8 long, -rounded off at the ends, which when quartered makes four -alighting-boards. The surface should be roughened by a -toothed plane.</p> - -<p>"Supers are 13 inches square inside and of various depths. -Six inches deep is a convenient size, and, when filled, will contain -nearly 30 lbs. of honey. The engraving, <a href="#fig_19"><i>fig. 19</i></a>, represents a -very neat glass super of this size, which is manufactured by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span> -Messrs. Neighbour. It shows also the adapter with its longitudinal -communications near the sides of the hive, and which -replaces the crown-board when a super is put on. As the honey-combs -in supers are better when made of a greater thickness -than those intended for breeding, I place only eight comb-bars -in a thirteen-inch super.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="fig_21" style="width: 278px;"> - <img src="images/fig_21.png" width="278" height="367" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 21.</div> -</div> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Hive-roofs and Outer Cases</span> are made of half-inch wood -11 inches wide. The former is separate, and is cross-bradded -together at the angles with a two-and-a-quarter-inch turned -acorn in the centre; its frame fits loosely over the cover and -rests on angle-pieces at -the corners. A half-inch -opening is left under the -eaves all round for ventilation. The hive-cover -is dovetailed together and -glued, with a brad driven -through each of the -tenons; it rests on the -exterior projection of the -floor-board, and is retained in its place by a plinth -2 inches wide, which fits -loosely outside the latter. -It must not be forgotten -that all wooden roofs and -outside cases require to -be kept well painted, -whilst no paint should -ever be applied to the -hive itself.</p> - -<p>"When a super is put -on a second outer case -becomes necessary, and -this fits loosely on the first, when the hive appears as it is represented -in the annexed engraving."</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="METHOD_OF_SECURING_COMBS_IN_FRAMES">METHOD OF SECURING COMBS IN FRAMES.</h2> -</div> - -<p>When transferring combs into frames we temporarily secure -them in position by the aid of slips of wood a sixteenth of an -inch thick by half an inch wide, tacked on each side, and one or -more zinc slips as delineated in the engraving.</p> - -<p>All these artificial supports should be removed as soon as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span> -possible. The combs will generally be found firmly fixed in less -than forty-eight hours.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_22" style="width: 481px;"> - <img src="images/fig_22.png" width="481" height="283" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 22.</div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SWARMING">SWARMING.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>It frequently happens when Bees are managed upon the depriving -system, that for want of timely room and ventilation -being given, a swarm comes off from the stock hive, leaving the -bell-glass, or small hive which has been placed upon it, in an -unfinished state. Now, whenever this happens, let the swarm -be hived into "The Improved Cottage Hive," and the bell-glass -or small hive, with the adapter, immediately removed from the -stock hive, and placed upon the newly-hived swarm; and as -soon as the Bees are a little settled (say in fifteen minutes), -remove the new-hived swarm to the place in which it is -intended to remain, care being taken to fasten down the straw -cover upon the parent hive; for no further profit can be expected -from it beyond a second, and, perhaps, a third swarm, -which are almost sure to follow. In this method of immediately -removing a swarm to the apiary, Gelieu agrees with me, and for -which he gives the following reasons:—"Most people who have -Bees allow their swarms to remain till the evening in the place -where they have alighted, and do not move them to the apiary -till after sunset. This method has many inconveniences. As -soon as a swarm has congregated in the new hive, and seems to -be at ease in it, the most industrious among the Bees fly off to -the fields, but with a great many precautions; they descend the -front of the hive, and turn to every side to examine it thoroughly, -then take flight, and make some circles in the air in order to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span> -reconnoitre their new abode; they do the same in returning. -If the swarm has taken flight in the morning, the same Bees -make several excursions during the day, and each time with less -precaution, as, becoming familiarised with their dwelling, they -are less afraid of mistaking it; and thus, next morning, supposing -themselves in the same place, they take wing without having -observed where they have spent the night, and surprised at their -return not to find the hive in the same place, they fly about all -day in search of it, until they perish with fatigue and despair. -Thus many hundreds of the most industrious labourers are lost; -and this may be entirely avoided if the swarms be removed as -soon as the Bees are perceived coming out: this sign is alone -sufficient." Experience has long since proved that the custom -of beating warming-pans, and the like, at the time a swarm -leaves the hive is perfectly useless. Much trouble may be -spared the Bees if the loose straws be removed from its interior; -and the best method of effecting this is first to singe -them with a wax taper and afterwards to remove them with a -hard brush.</p> - -<p>It is now an ascertained fact that the old queen accompanies -the first swarm; the period which usually transpires between -the first and second swarms is from nine to thirteen days; between -the second and third the time is much shorter. If second swarms -come by the middle of June, and stocks are required, it will be -well to preserve them, for after-swarms have always young -queens, which is a great advantage. Should second swarms not -come till July, let them be returned to the parent hive, or put -two of them together.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Symptoms of Swarming.</span>—The symptoms preceding a <i>first</i> -swarm are the rapid increase in numbers clustering, or hanging -out, and drones becoming numerous and unusually active. -Those of an after-swarm are much more certain, for, nine or ten -days after the departure of the first swarm, a singular noise, -called "piping," may be heard in the stock. The first note, -says Mr. Golding, is long and plaintive, and is uttered by the -princess already at liberty; she traverses the hive, and stops -upon, or near, the royal cells which still contain brood, and -emits her long plaintive note. This, when the other young -queens are sufficiently forward, generally in about two days, is -answered by them from <i>within</i> their cells in a quick, short, hoarse -note; after these last have been heard for about two days the -swarm may be expected to come off. Third swarms should either -be returned to the parent hive, or added to a second swarm, for -by themselves they are totally valueless. Sometimes an early first -swarm, when additional room is not supplied at the time required, -will send out another swarm: this generally occurs in about a -month, but it is a thing by no means to be desired, and should -carefully be prevented by giving timely room.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hiving.</span>—"Whatever system is adopted let everything be in -readiness for the reception of swarms, for even where the depriving -system is followed, from some oversight on the part of the -apiarian a swarm will occasionally occur. Watch the swarm in -silence, and after it has once collected, lose no time in housing -it into a new, clean and dry hive (its weight with the floor-board -being first taken and marked upon it), and let it he placed -where it is to remain within ten or fifteen minutes after the -time of its being hived; it will not be necessary even to wait -till the Bees clustered in front or on the sides of the hive are -reunited to their companions inside, as they are never long in -being so.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives with Comb in Them.</span>—Hives of comb, in which swarms -of the last year have died, should be carefully preserved for -hiving swarms into them; it gives a swarm treated in this -manner full three weeks' advantage over another put at the same -time into an empty hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Putting Glasses of Small Hives upon Swarms.</span>—The most -proper time for putting the bell-glass, or small hive, or box, upon -a swarm, will be from the eighteenth to the twenty-first day after -their being hived; and should it be quickly filled, and more room -required, which may be known by the crowded state of the -Bees inside the glass, and by their being seen to cluster at the -mouth of the hive at nine or ten in the morning, let no time -be lost in lifting up the glass, and placing between it and the -stock hive a small hive or box with a hole in the top. (See -<a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>). It is necessary to use this precaution at all times, -but more especially in a rainy season, as a greater disposition -amongst the Bees to swarm then prevails. "Dry weather makes -plenty of honey, and moist of swarms," says good Mr. Purchase; -and, however, incorrect this position may at first sight -appear, the attentive observer will quickly become convinced of -its truth.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Second Swarms.</span>—A second swarm generally leaves the hive -about nine days after the first; but the time may be exactly -ascertained by standing quietly beside the hive after sunset, -when the queen may be distinctly heard "totun in hir treble voic," -(<i>Butler's Feminin Monarchi</i>, Ed. 1643), which is a certain indication -that a second swarm will leave the hive. Should two or -three queens be heard one after the other, it will be on the following -day, if the weather be not very unfavourable. Should the -queens continue to pipe after the departure of a second swarm, a -third will <i>certainly</i> follow in a few days; but if one or two queens -be found dead beneath the hive on the next morning, no more -swarms can be expected.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="UNITING_SWARMS">UNITING SWARMS.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>I must here observe that second and third swarms are very -seldom, if ever, worth preserving by themselves; but two second -swarms, when joined, are very little inferior in value to a first -swarm, and the union is very easily effected in the following -manner:—When two second swarms, or a second and third, come -off on the same day, hive them separately, and leave them till an -hour and a half after sunset; then spread a cloth upon the -ground, upon which, by a smart and sudden movement, shake all -the Bees out of one of the hives, and immediately take the other -and place it gently over the Bees that are heaped together upon -the cloth, wedging up one side about half an inch, that the Bees -outside may pass under, and they will instantly ascend into it -and join those which, not having been disturbed, are quiet in -their new abode. Next morning before sunrise, remove this -newly-united hive to the place in which it is to remain. This -doubled population will work with double success, and in the -most perfect harmony, and generally become a strong stock, from -which much profit may be derived.</p> - -<p>Two second swarms, or a second and third, may be joined in -the same manner, although one of them may have swarmed some -days or even weeks later than the other; taking care, however, -not to make the first one enter the second, but the second the -first. A third and a fourth parcel of Bees may be joined to -them at different times in the same way till the stock becomes -strong. It is almost impossible sufficiently to impress upon the -mind of every one who keeps Bees the necessity of having his -stocks <i>all strong</i>; for weak stocks are very troublesome, very -expensive, and seldom, if ever, afford any profit.</p> - -<p>Mr. Taylor says, "The stronger the colony at the outset, the -better the Bees will work, and the more prosperous it will become. -I never knew a weak one do well long; and a little extra expense -at first is amply rewarded by succeeding years of prosperity -and ultimate profit." And again, "Thus strength in one year -begets it in succeeding ones; and this principle ought to be -borne in mine by those who imagine that the deficient population -of one season will be made up in the next, and that the loss of -Bees in the winter is of secondary consequence, forgetting how -influential is their warmth to the earlier and increased productive -powers of the queen; and how important it is, in the -opening spring, to be able to spare from the home duties of the -hive a number of collectors to add to the stores, which would -otherwise not keep pace with the cravings of the rising generation."</p> - -<p>It is a remarkable fact, that two weak stocks joined will -collect double the quantity of honey, and consume much less, -than two of the same age and strength kept separately. Stocks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span> -must be joined after sunset, upon the day that one of them has -swarmed; and the double stock must be placed upon the stand -it previously occupied; great care must be taken not to shake -the hive, nor must it be turned up. The combs being new and -tender, will easily break, and the stock by that means be -destroyed.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VENTILATION">VENTILATION.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Much has been said about ventilation, and many are the inventions -for effecting it, but I have not seen one that is really -efficient; its advantages, both in preventing swarms and in -preserving the colour of the combs, no person at all acquainted -with the management of Bees will deny.</p> - -<div class="figleft" id="fig_23" style="width: 161px;"> - <img src="images/fig_23.png" width="161" height="256" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 23.</div> -</div> - -<p>The best ventilator that I have seen is this of Mr. Taylor's. -"The ventilator I use," says Mr. T., "consists of double tubes, -both resting on a flaunch in the hole prepared for them; the -outer tube is of one-inch diameter, and 6 inches long, with six -half-inch holes dispersed over it; it is soon fixed down in its -place by the Bees, and so must remain. -The inner tube is perforated zinc, with a -tin projecting top as a handle, and a cap -to put on or off this as required. The -Bees will stop up the zinc tube when -they can get at it, when it may be turned -round a little to present a new surface; -when wholly stopped it may be withdrawn -from its place, and a clean tube substituted. -This may be done without the -least danger to the operator; but it -should be inserted carefully, to avoid -crushing any Bees that may have crept -within the outer tube. An exit to these -is afforded by the hole at the bottom. -The substance with which Bees glue up -all crevices and attach their combs is -called propolis, a resinous exudation from certain trees, of a -fragrant smell, and removable by the aid of hot water."</p> - -<p>In adapting Mr. Taylor's ventilator to the small hive or box, -the inner tube must be made without "the projecting top as a -handle," and the cap made even with the flaunch.</p> - -<p>After, all, however, the most certain, as well as the most -simple, plan is to lift the stories apart upon small pieces of sheet -lead, especially between the stock hive and glass box, or small -hive in immediate connection with it. The stock hive itself -may also be raised half an inch from the floor-board by blocks -of wood of that thickness. This precaution is necessary only in -very sultry weather, and when swarming is likely to occur.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span> -No fears need be entertained at this time of robbers; for when -honey is to be had abroad the Bees will not pilfer it from their -neighbours at home. As soon as the very hot weather is over, -it will be necessary to remove the blocks and restore the hives -to their original position.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FEEDING">FEEDING.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The best kind of food that can be given to Bees is honey -liquefied with a small portion of warm water; but where honey -is scarce and dear, an excellent substitute will be found in lump -sugar. Three pounds of sugar to a pint of water, boiled for two -or three minutes, and then mixed with a pound of honey, this -will make five pounds of excellent food, which the Bees appear -to like quite as well as honey alone. Or three pounds of lump -sugar may be dissolved in two pounds of water by being boiled -a minute or two. This is a very cheap and simple Bee food, and -really answers every purpose.</p> - -<p>Of all other kinds of food (where honey in the combs cannot -be had) barley-sugar is the best, and not only the best and the -cheapest, but the safest and by far the least trouble; for when -liquid food is used it is carried down by the Bees immediately -upon its being supplied and stored in the combs, and the proprietor -has no means of knowing at what time the store is -exhausted, and a fresh supply required; but it is not so with -barley-sugar, for whilst a morsel remains, which may easily be -seen, it is certain the Bees will not die of want. The best method -of supplying it is at the top of the hives or boxes. My plan is -to tie a dozen sticks of it together, and after opening the hive at -top, to place the barley-sugar over the opening, and to cover it -with a garden-pan or flower-pot; and just before it is all consumed, -give a fresh supply in a similar way. Persons generally -are apt to imagine that as soon as a few blossoms make their -appearance in the spring their Bees will not want any attention, -which is a very great mistake, as many a young apiarian has -discovered both to his cost and disappointment; for during the -months of March and April greater care is required in feeding -than at any other time, for the population is then rapidly increasing, -and in a wet and cloudy season no supplies whatever -can be obtained but by artificial means.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Make Barley-sugar.</span>—Put two pounds of loaf sugar into -a saucepan with half a pint of water, and two spoonfuls of the -best vinegar; put it on a gentle fire, let it boil till the syrup -becomes so thick that the handle of a spoon being dipped into -it, and then plunged into cold water, the syrup upon the handle -is found to be quite crisp; when this is the case it is sufficiently -boiled. Having an earthen dish or marble slab in readiness, well<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span> -buttered, pour the syrup upon it, and, when sufficiently cool to -handle, clip it with scissors into strips the size desired. The -process of boiling takes about twenty minutes.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding Bottles.</span>—The very best mode of administering -liquid food is by means of an inverted bottle, the mouth of -which should be tied over with a bit of coarse leno or cap-net. -It is a mistake to use muslin for this purpose, or, in fact, any -material the meshes of which are less than a sixteenth of an -inch wide. With common hives the bottle-neck may be inserted -in the central aperture, which usually exists (if not, one should -be made with a sharp penknife), in the top, and refilled as often -as may be necessary. With flat-topped hives the bottle should -be supported by its neck being fitted into a perforated block of -wood about five inches in diameter, and it will be found convenient -to interpose a piece of perforated zinc to prevent the -Bees escaping when the bottle is refilled. A four or six-ounce -medicine phial is a good size for spring-feeding, whilst a common -pickle-bottle leaves nothing to be desired when a copious -supply is required in autumn.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_24" style="width: 345px;"> - <img src="images/fig_24.png" width="345" height="342" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 24.</div> -</div> - -<p>A feeding-bottle should be filled by the food being poured into -it from a jug, and if the neck be narrow it may, after the mouth -is tied over, be quickly inverted over the aperture in the top of -the hive, so that what food escapes may run into the hive and -down among the Bees. If, on the other hand, the mouth be -wide, as in the case of a pickle-bottle, it should be first inverted -over the jug and steadily conveyed to the hive in a reversed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span> -position When a bottle is properly managed no food runs -down into the hive after it has been placed upon it, but all remains -perfectly suspended whilst it is being gradually removed -by the Bees, which find no difficulty in emptying a full-sized -pickle-bottle every night.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_25" style="width: 308px;"> - <img src="images/fig_25.png" width="308" height="276" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 25.<br /> - <i>a</i>, Circular hole through which the Bees ascend; <i>b</i>, The feeding-pan - containing the food, which is put in at the side spout, <i>c</i>, and upon which - the float rises and falls.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding-pans.</span>—Having been frequently applied to for the -plan of a feeding-pan best adapted for my Improved Cottage -Hive, I am induced to answer the very many applicants by -giving a description of the one I have been using for the last -two or three years. It is made of stout zinc, circular, 8 inches -in diameter, 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches deep, having a circular hole of 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inches -in the middle of the bottom, with a rim round it standing up -2 inches; a float of wood, very thin and perforated with holes, is -made to fit inside, but sufficiently easy to rise and fall with the -liquid in the pan; the holes in this float must first be made with -a gimlet, and then burnt with an iron, or they will fill up after -having been in use a little time; the whole is covered by a lid -with an inside rim, the lid having a piece of glass in the centre -of 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> or 3 inches in diameter. When first using this feeding-pan, -I found much inconvenience in being obliged to remove the lid -every time that a fresh supply of food was required. To obviate -this difficulty, I had a half circle 3 inches in diameter, attached -to its sides, with a lid or cover, and communicating with the -interior of the feeding-pan by a hole cut in the side, and covered -with a piece of perforated zinc, so that by looking through the -glass in the lid I can see when a fresh supply of food is required;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span> -and I have then only to raise the lid of this additional side-piece, -and pour in the food, which passes readily through the -perforated zinc, and raises the wooden float upon its surface. -Four very small tacks should be driven into the under side -of the float, at equal distances from each other, to prevent its -going quite to the bottom of the pan; and it is also necessary -for the rim in the centre of the pan to be roughed with a file, -or to be lined with perforated zinc, to enable the Bees to ascend -more easily than they would otherwise do if it was left quite -smooth.</p> - -<p>The float should be less than an eighth of an inch in thickness, -and is better to be made of mahogany.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MANNER_OF_TAKING_HONEY">MANNER OF TAKING HONEY.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>At noon, upon a clear fine day, pass either a very thin knife -or fine wire between the hive and the glass intended to be taken. -If this precaution be neglected, a piece of comb is frequently left -projecting from the top of the one left, or the bottom of that -taken, which will cause much trouble to the operator. Two -adapting-boards (see <a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>) placed between the hive and the -glass will be found very convenient, for the knife or wire will -then only have to be passed between them, and the danger of -breaking the combs thus be obviated.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Expel the Bees from the Glass.</span>—The glass must be -lifted <i>very</i> gently, kept in the same position, and placed upon -three inverted flower-pots, or something of the kind, in a shaded -place, about 30 or 40 yards from the hive, and the Bees will -make their escape in about ten or fifteen minutes. Gentleness, -as I have before said, is very necessary in this, as in all -other operations with Bees; indeed, it is the only means of -accomplishing the end desired: therefore, remove the glass very -gently, and place it about 6 inches above the ground on bricks -or flower-pots, as above. Shaking, beating, or burning paper -under it, have all a contrary effect than that desired upon the -Bees: they are alarmed by this, and will not leave the glass for -hours, and, perhaps, days when these means are resorted to. -The glass being thus placed, a loud humming noise is first -heard, and the Bees are then seen to leave it, and in five or six -minutes all, except a few stragglers that may be brushed out -with a feather, will have left it: but should the queen be in the -glass, which very rarely happens, quite a different appearance -presents itself—no noise will be heard, nor a Bee scarcely seen -to leave it; but the hive from which it has been taken will, in a -very short time, appear in great confusion. Whenever this -occurs the glass must be returned immediately, and taken off -again the next day. When a glass or box of honey is taken, it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span> -must not be left till the Bees are all out of it, for it is very likely -to be attacked by robbers, and a great part of it carried away in -a short time. Robbers may be known by their endeavouring to -enter the glass or box, while the Bees belonging to it, being -separated from their queen, fly home immediately upon leaving -it. I have frequently found it necessary, in order to prevent -robbers from attacking the glass, to remove it from place to -place every four or five minutes, or to take the glass into a -darkened room, so that a small portion of light is admitted -through a hole which communicates with the open air.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="STUPIFYING_BEES">STUPIFYING BEES.</h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">By Fumigation.</span>—Much has been said and written upon the -subject of fumigation, yet this is a process that I am not -at all partial to; and, as far as my experience has gone, it is -one which I have never yet had occasion to resort to in a single -instance; for even in the most difficult operations I have always -found a puff, and that a very little one, of tobacco-smoke to be -all-sufficient. As I have said before, gentleness is the best protection; -still, if by any little accident the Bees become irritated, -a slight puff of tobacco-smoke quiets them at once. One reason -for my not being partial to fumigation is, that I could never see -the necessity for it; and another reason is, that all the Bees, -which I have seen thus treated are sluggish and inactive for -some days after the operation, besides many having been killed. -Now, this in early spring, or in the midst of the honey-gathering -season, is certainly of great consequence, especially when we are -told that a prosperous colony of Bees will, in a single day of the -latter season, collect from 4 to 6 lbs. of honey.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="METHOD_OF_DRAINING_HONEY_FROM_THE_COMBS">METHOD OF DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Place a sieve, either of hair or canvas, over an earthen jar, -cut the combs containing the honey into small pieces, and put -them into a sieve; let them be cut in an horizontal direction. -It is better to slice them twice—that is, at the top and bottom, -than in the middle. Crushing or pressing should be avoided -for, as a portion of brood and Bee-bread generally remains in -the comb, pressure would force it through the sieve, and the -honey would thereby be much injured, both in colour as well a& -flavour. It is very desirable to have two sieves; for in every -hive there will be two kinds of honey—the one almost colourless -and fine-flavoured, found at the sides of the hive; the other -dark and not so good, stored in the centre. These should always -be kept separate. The draining process may occupy, perhaps,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span> -two days; but the largest quantity, as well as the best quality, -will be drained off in three or four hours. The honey should be -put into jars immediately, and the jars <i>filled</i> and tied down with -bladder; for exposure to the air, even for a few hours, very much -deteriorates its flavour. I may here observe, that honey in the -combs keeps remarkably well if folded in writing-paper, and -sealed up so as to exclude the free entrance of the air, and is -placed in a dry warm closet.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREPARATION_OF_WAX">PREPARATION OF WAX.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Having drained all the honey from the combs, wash these in -clean water; this liquid, by exposure to the sun and air, will -make most excellent vinegar; put them in a clean boiler with -some soft water; simmer over a clear fire until the combs are -melted: pour a quart or so into a canvas bag, wide at the top -and tapering downwards into a jelly bag; hold this over a tub -of cold water; the boiling liquor will immediately pass away, -leaving the liquefied wax and the dross in the bag; have ready -a piece of smooth board, of such a length that one end may rest -at the bottom of the tub and the other end at its top; upon this -inclined plane lay your reeking bag, but not so as to touch the -cold water; then, by compressing the bag with any convenient -roller, the wax will ooze through and run down the board into -the cold water, on the surface of which it will set in thin flakes; -empty the dross out of the bag and replenish it with the boiling -wax, and proceed as before until all has been pressed. When -finished, collect the wax from the surface of the cold water, put -it into a clean saucepan with very little water, melt it carefully -over a slow fire, skim off the dross as it rises, then pour it into -moulds, or shapes, and place them where they will cool slowly. -The wax may be rendered still more pure by a second melting -and moulding.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MEAD">MEAD.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This treatise would not be complete without a receipt for Mead, -the following is the best that I have seen, and is most excellent:—Pour -five gallons of boiling water upon 20 lbs. of honey; -boil, and remove the scum as it rises; when it ceases to rise, -add 1 oz. of hops, and boil for ten minutes afterwards; put the -liquor into a tub to cool. When reduced to 75° of Fahrenheit, -add a slice of bread toasted and smeared over with a little yeast, -let it stand in a warm room and be stirred occasionally; and -when it carries a head tun it, filling the cask up from time to -time. When the fermentation has nearly finished bung it down, -leaving a peg-hole, which may soon be closed; bottle in about -a year.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="HONEY_VINEGAR">HONEY VINEGAR.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>A most excellent Vinegar may also be had from honey:—Put -half a pound of honey to a quart of water, boiling hot; mix -well, and expose to the greatest heat of the sun without closing -the vessel containing it, but sufficiently so to keep out insects. -In about six weeks this liquor becomes acid and changes to -strong vinegar, and of <i>excellent</i> quality. The broken combs, after -being drained, may be put in as much water as will float them, -and well washed. The linens also and sieves which have been -used for draining honey, may be rinsed in the same water, and -with this make the vinegar; first boil and scum it before mixing -it with the honey.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="REMEDIES_FOR_THE_STING_OF_A_BEE">REMEDIES FOR THE STING OF A BEE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>1. Persons who are much amongst Bees must now and then -expect to meet with a sting, although to myself it very rarely -happens; never, indeed, but when accidentally having laid my -hand upon one, or when having pressed one beneath the sleeve -of my coat. "The sooner the sting is extracted," says Dr. Bevan, -"the less venom is ejected, and, consequently, less inflammation -induced." After extracting the sting, I apply the least possible -quantity of <i>liquor potassæ</i>, either with a fine camel's-hair pencil, -a sharp pen, or even with the point of a needle. The venom of -the Bee being an acid, this very powerful alkali neutralises it; -the pain is instantly removed, and neither swelling nor inflammation -follows. Care must be taken not to use too large a -quantity or a scar will be the consequence, which will last for -some days. Remember, the quicker the application the more -effectual the cure.</p> - -<p>2. The only <i>positive</i> and <i>immediate</i> cure for a Bee-sting that -I have ever heard of, and that may be depended on in all cases, -is tobacco. This remedy was recommended to me as an infallible -cure; yet I had but little faith in it: still I tried it, and, as I -supposed, properly, and found little or no benefit from its use. -I reported its failure to cure in my own case to my informant, -and he stated that I had not applied it thoroughly as I ought to -have done; that he was certain that it would be an effectual cure, -never having known it to fail in a single instance when correctly -applied. The next time I got stung I applied the tobacco as -directed, and found it to cure like a charm. The manner of -applying it is as follows:—Take ordinary fine-cut smoking or -chewing tobacco, and lay a pinch of it in the hollow of your -hand, and moisten it and work it over until the juice appears -quite dark-coloured; then apply it to the part stung, rubbing in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span> -the juice, with the tobacco between your thumb and fingers, as -with a sponge. As fast as the tobacco becomes dry, add a little -moisture and continue to rub, and press out the juice upon the -inflamed spot, during five or ten minutes, and if applied soon -after being stung it will cure in 'every case. Before I tried it, I -was frequently laid up with swollen eyes and limbs for days. -Now it is amusing to get stung.—(<i>Miner's American Bee-keeper's Manual.</i>)</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BEE_DRESS">BEE DRESS.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>In the season for going amongst Bees careful apiarians are -desirous of having all things ready for use before they are -immediately required, and as being well-armed against the -stings of their Bees gives confidence and coolness to the inexperienced -operator, both of which are so essentially necessary to -the successful accomplishment of his object, I will give the plan -of a very simple and convenient Bee-dress, which has been -kindly handed to me by a friend. It is formed of green leno, -and so made as to enclose the head, neck, and shoulders; indeed, -it is like a bag, with sleeves to tie at the wrists. The sleeves -are made of green glazed cambric. It forms altogether a perfect -panoply, and the most timid person with its aid may perform -the most difficult operation with the greatest coolness, and without -the possibility of being stung.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PURCHASING_STOCKS">PURCHASING STOCKS.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>March and April are the best two months for purchasing -stocks, and May for swarms. It is better to obtain them from -such a distance only as they can be conveyed by hand; conveyance -by any other means is always attended with danger to -the Bees. Swarms require less care in carrying from place to -place than stocks. In purchasing stocks the weight alone must -not be relied on; a swarm of the preceding year should be -selected, and one that contains not less than 12 lbs. of honey. -The combs must be looked at, and if they are not of a yellow -or straw colour, and if at all approaching to blackness, it is not -a swarm of the last year, and must be rejected. The next best -time to purchase is May or June, at the time of swarming; but -of this hereafter.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_LIGURIAN_OR_YELLOW_ALP_BEE">THE LIGURIAN OR YELLOW ALP BEE.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The Ligurian Bee is a species indigenous to the south of -Europe, and has been cultivated in Italy in the same way as the -common honey Bee has been in the northern parts of Europe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span> -from time immemorial. It is the Apis Ligustica of the naturalist; -and though so well known to exist and to have all the honey-producing -properties of our own honey Bee, with some other -advantages besides, it seems remarkable that it should have -remained so long unknown to the apiarians of this country.</p> - -<p>The merit of introducing this species is due to Mr. Woodbury, -the eminent Devonshire Bee-keeper, who, having made the -necessary preliminary inquiries, placed himself in communication -with Mons. H. C. Hermann, of Tamin-by-Chur, in the -Canton of Grison, Switzerland; and on the 19th of July, 1859, -the Ligurian Bee was introduced to England.</p> - -<p>In a pamphlet on the subject by M. Hermann we have the -following particulars of this insect:—</p> - -<p>"The yellow Italian Alp Bee is a mountain insect; it is found -between two mountain chains to the right and left of Lombardy -and the Rhætian Alps, comprising the whole territory of Tessins, -Vetlin, and South-Graubunden. It thrives up to the height of -4500 feet above the level of the sea, and appears to prefer the -northern clime to the warmer, for in the south of Italy it is not -found. The farther one goes from the Alps, the less handsome -they are found—as for example in Nice, until they are entirely -lost in lower Italy in the black species. We must therefore look -for the original in Switzerland, and we can call them with -as much right <i>Apis Helvetica</i>, as the Genoese call them <i>Apis -Ligustica</i>. Some learned men have called them Ligurian Bees, -but that name has neither historical nor geographical claim, -and not one Bee-cultivator of the whole district of the Italian -Alp Bee knows what kind of insects Ligurian Bees are. The -Alps are their native country; therefore they are called Yellow -Alp Bees, or Tame House Bees, in contradistinction to the black -European Bees, which we might call common forest Bees, and -which, on the slightest touch, fly like lightning into your face.</p> - -<p>"The Italian yellow Bee differs from the common black Bee -in its longer more slender form, and light chrome yellow -colour, with light brimstone-coloured wings, and two orange-red -bands, each one-sixth of an inch wide. Working Bees as -well as drones have this mark. The drones are further distinguished -by the bands being scolloped like the spotted water-serpent, -and obtain an astonishing size—almost half as large -again as the black drones. The queen has the same marks as -the working Bees, but much more conspicuous and lighter; she -is much larger than the black queen, and easy to be singled out -of the swarm, on account of her remarkable bodily size and light -colour.</p> - -<p>"The Bees are almost transparent when the sun shines on them.</p> - -<p>"This race has nothing in common with the black Bees, which -can be instantly seen by their ways and manner of building. -The cells of the Italian Bee are considerably deeper and broader<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span> -than those of the black Bees. Fifteen cells of the Italians are as -broad as sixteen cells of the black kind."</p> - -<p>Their chief merits in contrast with the black Bees are—1, as -they naturally inhabit a region of such elevation as 4500 feet, -they are less sensitive to cold than the common Bee; 2, their -queens are more prolific; 3, they swarm earlier and more frequently; -4, they are much less apt to sting, and not only so, but -unless they are intentionally annoyed or irritated they are not -inclined to sting; 5, they are more courageous and active in -self-defence, and are particularly disposed to plunder the hives -of the common kind; but should the latter attack their hives -they fight with great fierceness and adroitness.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_UNITE_A_LIGURIAN_QUEEN_TO_A_COMMON_STOCK_OR_SWARM">TO UNITE A LIGURIAN QUEEN TO A COMMON STOCK OR SWARM.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>As soon as you have become possessed of a Ligurian queen -and her attendants, steps should be taken for removing the -common queen from the stock, or swarm, to which the strangers -are to be united.</p> - -<p>Where <i>bar hives</i> are in use the operation is sufficiently easy, -but should not be attempted without the protection afforded by -a Bee-dress and a thick pair of wollen gloves. The services of an -assistant similarly accoutred will be found very useful, but are -not absolutely indispensable.</p> - -<p>The middle of a fine day is the best time for the operation, -which should be commenced by removing the stock a little either -to the right or left of its usual position, which must be occupied -by an empty hive, from which the top board and comb-bars -have been removed. The top board of the full hive must then -be shifted on one side sufficiently to expose a single bar, which -may be carefully withdrawn after the attachments of the comb -have been severed from the back and front of the hire by a bent -knife. Both sides of the comb must be rigidly scrutinised, and -any cluster of Bees gently dispersed with a feather, until it -becomes evident that the queen is not present, when it may be -placed in the empty hive. The same process must be repeated -with each successive comb until the queen is discovered and -secured, when the Bees may be either allowed to remain in the -hive to which they have been transferred, or replaced in their -original domicile. Sometimes the queen is not to be found on -any of the combs, but may be detected among the stragglers -remaining in the hive. In practised hands her discovery may -be reckoned on with tolerable certainty during the first removal; -but if she succeed in escaping detection the process must be -repeated until she is secured.</p> - -<p>With <i>common hives</i> or boxes driving is the best method to -adopt; and the Bees, having been expelled from their habitation,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span> -may be knocked out on a cloth and searched over until the queen -is discovered.</p> - -<p>Should the Bee-keeper be unable to perform the operation of -driving, fumigation may be resorted to and the queen secured -whilst the Bees are in a state of insensibility.</p> - -<p>Should the queen have been removed, and the Bees restored -to their original hive and position in the apiary, measures must -now be taken to introduce the Italian sovereign to her future -subjects. The first step will be carefully to remove the lid of -the small box, replacing it with a slip of perforated zinc without -permitting the Bees to escape. The whole must then be inverted -over an opening in the top of the hive containing the queenless -stock, where it should remain undisturbed till the next day, -when the perforated zinc divider may be withdrawn, and the -union will be complete. The small box itself need not be removed -till the third day, when the Bees will be found to have quitted it.</p> - -<p>After the lapse of about thirty days young Ligurians may, -probably, be discovered taking their flight.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MULTIPLYING_SWARMS_OF_LIGURIANS">MULTIPLYING SWARMS OF LIGURIANS.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Presuming that the Ligurian queens are in bar hives, and that -they prove themselves fairly prolific mothers, let a number of -similar bar hives be provided, and into each of these, from time -to time, during the course of the summer, let there be carefully -transferred from the Ligurian stock a bar with comb attached, -containing eggs and young Bees in every stage of progress.</p> - -<p>It would be well that every full-grown Bee should be previously -swept off this comb back into the old hive, so as to prevent -all danger of fighting between them and the Bees of the -other stocks to which the comb is to be given. Then, in the -middle of a warm and sunny day, when the Bees are chiefly -abroad, let this comb, carefully fixed in an empty bar hive, be -put in the place of any strong stock of common Bees that may be -available for the purpose. This stock may be removed to some -distance; but it would be well first so to disturb it as to cause -a good many more of the Bees to leave it than might happen to -be foraging in the fields; and, moreover to stop up its entrance -till the evening. The ether Bees would soon take possession of -the empty bar hive, and in three weeks' time replace their missing -English queen with a young artificially-reared Ligurian queen, -whose progeny would, in due course of time, become the sole -possessors of the hive. The English stocks chosen for this purpose -must be in the same, or in a very closely-adjoining apiary, -otherwise the absence of Ligurian drones at the proper season -would prove fatal to the success of this plan of increase.</p> - -<p>One Ligurian stock losing one bar only, from time to time, -might in this manner become the parent of a dozen stocks at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span> -least in the same season; and the earliest of the young swarms -(say those formed in May), might also, in a warm spring, be -made productive of two or three swarms in the same manner, -without becoming too much weakened. Indeed, two bars may -be taken every week out of the Ligurian stock during the months -of May, June, and July; and these swarms, artificially formed, -in the manner above detailed, may be worked during at least a -whole month, from the middle of June to the middle of July.</p> - -<p>One good Ligurian stock should be left pretty much to itself, -so as to encourage the propagation of drones. Still, even this -stock might be made to yield a few bars without in the least -rendering the development of drones; but no bars should be -taken out till a fair number have been seen abroad. Perhaps the -best plan would be to make a swarm out of this hive in the same -artificial manner, so soon as many drones are hatched. For -drones which join swarms are generally (perhaps always) allowed -to remain alive till late in the season, whereas the earliest-hatched -drones are frequently destroyed in cold springs in their -own hives.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="pg_36" style="width: 156px;"> - <img src="images/pg_36.png" width="156" height="186" alt="" /> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BEE-KEEPERS_CALENDAR">BEE-KEEPER'S CALENDAR.</h2> -</div> - - -<h3 id="JAN">JANUARY.</h3> - -<p>Little attention will be required during this month of cold -and frost, except upon a mild day, should such occur, of cleaning -the floor-boards with a dry brush, and looking well to the -ventilation of boxes of all kinds; for however trifling these -matters may appear to those who are inexperienced in Bee-management, -the well-doing of many stocks during the coming -reason will, in a great measure, depend upon their being carefully -attended to; and the interior of the hives being clean and -free from damp at this time is quite as important as their having -a supply of food in store, for even with the latter, if the former -be neglected, the hives frequently perish.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Food.</span>—When the hives are very weak—that is, having only -Two or three pounds of honey in store, I would recommend a -Lew pounds of syrup being given—viz., one pound of loaf sugar, -a quarter of a pint of water, and a quarter of a pound of honey, -simmered together over a slow fire until the sugar is melted, -and when cold given to the Bees, and at the top of the hive if -possible; but where they have a little richer store, barley-sugar -may be given instead of syrup.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shade.</span>—Many persons have advocated the sun's rays in -winter not falling upon the hives. Mr. Taylor says:—"Where -The hives stand singly, I have always seen the advantages of -fixing before each a wooden screen, nailed to a post sunk in the -ground, and large enough to throw the whole front into shade. -This does not interfere with the coming-forth of the Bees at a -proper temperature, and it supersedes the necessity of shutting -Them up when snow is on the ground. The screen should be -fixed a foot or two in advance, and so as to intercept the sun's -rays, which will be chiefly in winter towards the west side."</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ventilation.</span>—Where boxes are used ventilation cannot be -too much insisted upon, and a frequent examination of the floor-boards; -and where dampness and mouldiness are observed, they -should be exchanged for clean and dry ones.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Enemies and Snow.</span>—The titmouse must be sharply looked -after and destroyed as winter approaches, either by trapping, -shooting, or bird-lime. Mice are also very apt to take up their -winter abode inside the hives, where the single pedestal is not -used; hence the necessity of a frequent examination of the hives.</p> - -<p>See that the entrances of the hives are narrowed, and that -during the time snow remains upon the ground they are wholly -closed, so that not a single Bee can escape, for the sun shining -upon the snow never fails to bring the Bees out of their hives,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span> -and settling upon the snow, they are immediately chilled, and -die; but, upon the disappearance of the snow, not an hour must -be lost in unstopping the entrances, and giving the Bees full -liberty. This is very important, for, after a confinement of ten -or twelve days, which may sometimes be found necessary, full -liberty must be given them, upon the melting of the snow, by -unstopping the hives; and not only unstopping, but seeing that -the entrances are clear, and not filled up with dead Bees, which, -after a long confinement, will very frequently happen. Many a -good stock has perished for want of this precaution.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Glasses and Hives.</span>—The provident apiarian will now provide -himself with all the glasses and hives, of whatever kind he -may fancy, either of wood or straw, that he may be likely to -require during the ensuing season; and it is always better to -have a few to spare than to have a short supply, for it is not at -all an unusual thing for a swarm to fly away whilst sending -about to procure a hive; when on the contrary, had there been -a good supply, much time and inconvenience would have been -saved, as well as the loss of the Bees prevented. Many cottagers -make their own hives during the winter evenings, and very -praiseworthy it is; the materials to make them cost very little. -Straw is easily obtained; brambles, also to sew them with -abound everywhere; and the method of making them is very -easily acquired. I would recommend a swarm never to be put -into an old hive; the old hives will be useful as covers to glasses, -and for hiving second and third swarms that are to be joined to -others on the evening of the day they swarm. Where wood -hives are used a second time, great care must be taken to make -them thoroughly clean, and free from the eggs of moths.</p> - - -<h3 id="FEB">FEBRUARY</h3> - -<p>Very little attention will be required during this month -beyond looking to the coverings, and seeing that they be all -sound, and that no moisture comes upon the tops of the hives. -Towards the end of the month, particular attention must be -given at this season in endeavouring to keep the interior of the -hives free from damp, which a frequent changing of the floor-boards -will tend very much to effect. Indeed, after so long a -confinement it becomes necessary, or the health of the stocks will -be much endangered.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span>—Food must be liberally supplied; but in so doing -much attention must be paid to neatness and cleanliness in its -administration, for when syrup is used the greatest care must be -given that it be not smeared about the hives and floor-boards, -for it will not only cause dampness in the hives, but induce -fighting amongst the Bees when they are able to fly abroad.</p> - -<p>Let the food be given, if possible at the top of the hive; if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span> -at the bottom, not till after sunset, carefully stopping up the -entrance of the hive, and removing the vessel in which the food -was given before sunrise the next morning; for the appearance -of the Aconite and Crocus will not only delight our eyes, and -gladden our hearts, but they will also arouse our little favourites -to life and activity; and as the supplies of honey from these -flowers at this early season will be very small—sufficient only, -perhaps, to create a desire for a larger quantity, the feeding-pan, -therefore, if allowed to remain at the bottom of a weak -hive, will be resorted to by all the Bees of the apiary, causing -much fighting and loss of life, and very probably the destruction -of the stock in which it had been placed. By feeding at the -top, all this may be avoided; not only the trouble of removing -the feeding-pan every morning, but the danger and loss certain -to arise from fighting.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stocks.</span>—A careful examination of every stock should be made -on a mild day towards the end of the month; and where any -doubt exists as to the sufficiency of food in the hive to carry the -Bees safely through the spring, a supply should now be given, -and I must still recommend barley-sugar (where honey cannot -readily be obtained) as the best food that can be given. A good -receipt for making it may be found in <a href="#Page_25">page 25</a>; but it must always -be remembered, that where barley-sugar is used as food, the Bees -should never be left, even for a day, without a supply, either at -the top or bottom of the hive; the former is always preferable. -It should be remembered, also, that it is much better to give food -before the stock is absolutely in want of it, than to wait till its -store of food is exhausted. There are many reasons for this, well -known to every practical apiarian.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Promoting Early Breeding.</span>—Binding the hives neatly over -with haybands would be as little trouble and expense as anything. -The end of the month will be the proper time for trying -this experiment; and I have little doubt but, if carefully -attended to, the result will prove to be all that is desired. The -entrances to the hives, if large, should be reduced, so as to -leave room only sufficient for the easy ingress and egress of the -Bees.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Water.</span>—It must not be forgotten to place water in the -vicinity of the hives, as directed at <a href="#Page_43">page 43</a>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Enemies.</span>—The chief enemies to guard against at this time -are mice and birds; cold; if the floor-boards and hives are dry, -affects them but little.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives of Comb.</span>—Let the hives of comb in which swarms of -the last year have died be carefully preserved for the purpose -of putting swarms of the coming season into them. The best -method of keeping such hives will be, after having cleared them -of the dead Bees, to hang them up in a dry place out of the -reach of mice or rats. The advantage which a swarm put into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span> -a hive of clean dry comb has over one that is put into an empty -hive is very great indeed, and known only to those persons who -have experienced it.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pollen.</span>—By the end of the month our little pets will have -begun their labours for another year, in collecting pollen from -the Winter Aconites and the early kinds of Crocus, and, if the -weather is not very severe, from the Elms also. Some years -since I was curious to learn from what a grey or ash-coloured -pollen was obtained, which the Bees brought home in rather -large quantities very early in the season, at a time when the -Aconites only could be seen in flower; but happening to pass -beneath some Elm trees on a bright day, to my surprise I heard -the hum of Bees, and on looking closely I observed several -very busily employed, which induced me to take a branch home, -and by comparing under the microscope the pollen, which it -shed abundantly on being placed in a warm room, with that -brought by the Bees, I found them to be alike, which fully -satisfied me in this matter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pedestals.</span>—Where the stocks are placed upon pedestals of -wood it will be well to look to them, for I have lately heard of -some sad disasters arising from the want of this little attention. -It is about an inch below the surface of the ground that the -mischief takes place, and when once begun, goes on rapidly, -except good oak has been used.</p> - - -<h3 id="MAR">MARCH.</h3> - -<p>Our little favourites, by the appearance of the early spring -flowers, and the return of milder weather, are again aroused -into life and activity; but it must always be remembered that -the most trying time for them is from the middle of February -to the end of March; for none but well-stored stocks can bear -up against the great inequality betwixt the internal demand and -the external supply of this period. The winter, to be sure, has -been very cold, which is generally in their favour; for but little, -if any, evil is to be apprehended from a cold winter, though -much may arise from a mild one; as, during the latter, the -stock of honey is often exhausted, from its inducing the Bees -to be in action, without affording them any resources beyond -their own stores.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Diseases.</span>—This is the month in which dysentery and other -disorders make their appearance amongst the Bees; but cleanliness -and timely supplies of food are the best remedies, and -which are always found to prevent it.</p> - -<p>Spring-feeding, however, must be done sparingly; for if the -Bees have had a sufficient winter's supply, feeding will only be -required on a small scale, and to those that are weak, it being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span> -chiefly intended as a stimulant to promote early breeding. A -hive that has less than 5 lbs. of honey in it is a weak one.</p> - -<p>The importance of feeding is very great; for languor and -death, says Dr. Bevan, are less frequently to be ascribed to -disease than to the want of timely food.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives.</span>—The time has now fully arrived for all careful apiarians -to possess themselves of as many hives, glasses, boxes, -bee-dresses, &c., as they are likely to require during the coming -season; and to those who prefer the use of straw hives I would -say (and that most emphatically), Never put a swarm into an -old hive. Mr. Huish has said, and with much truth, that old -hives are generally so overrun with vermin of an obnoxious -character to Bees, that, even should the swarm condescend to -remain in them, the ensuing winter will place the hive in such -a ruinous state, that the Bees will forsake it in search of a more -salubrious domicile, or the contents of the hive will be destroyed -by the insects. Boxes that have been already tenanted should -be cleaned most carefully, and boiling water from the spout -a tea-kettle poured over the joints where the eggs of the wax -moth—that redoubted enemy of the Bees—will very probably -have been deposited.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Haybands.</span>—I have put in practice, with my own Bees, what -I recommended last month—namely, covering some of my hives -with haybands. The good, should any be found to arise from -it, in promoting early breeding, shall be communicated in due -course.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cleaning Floor-boards.</span>—When performing this operation, -should the hives be found to be at all damp or mouldy, take the -precaution of raising them a little for a few hours on a dry day.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Snow.</span>—Should we after mild weather have snow, it will be -necessary to keep the entrances of the hives stopped whilst it -remains upon the ground, or the loss of life will be very great, -which, at this season, should be more especially guarded against.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Examination.</span>—Immediately upon the disappearance of snow, -every hive should be carefully examined, and clean floor-boards -supplied wherever the least dampness is observed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bees Gathering Pollen.</span>—Bees may now be seen upon a -bright day in the Aconites and early kinds of Crocuses, collecting -the little pollen and honey which they afford; and it is but -little indeed—only just sufficient to arouse the workers to -activity, and the queens to depositing their eggs: therefore, -without careful and constant feeding, death by starvation must -follow, for I imagine that not one stock in ten has sufficient -honey in store to support it through the winter and early spring.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Forsaking Hives.</span>—Where the population is low, and little -or no food in store, the Bees are very likely, upon a fine and -mild day towards the end of the month, to forsake their hives -entirely, and to join themselves to more populous and better-stored<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span> -communities. This desertion, when it happens towards -the end of April, is frequently mistaken for an early swarm. -The only means of prevention is to keep them well supplied with -food; but even this will not, in all cases, keep them from leaving -their hives.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wasps.</span>—It will be well, during the present and the next -month, to be looking for queen wasps, and destroying every one -that makes its appearance. A garden syringe is the most useful -thing I have ever found to effect their destruction, for if discharged -at them, it brings them to the ground, and the foot then -finishes the business.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Buying Stocks.</span>—March is a good time for purchasing stocks, -for those who are desirous to become Bee-keepers; and there is -sufficient encouragement, I think, to induce many persons to -engage in it, for their cultivation, if properly managed, is attended -with very considerable advantage, much more, indeed, than what -is generally supposed, and would not be by any means a contemptible -consideration with even those who may fill a superior -rank in the rural population of our country.</p> - - -<h3 id="APR">APRIL.</h3> - -<p>April may be considered the first month of the apiarian's year, -a month of busy preparation for the coming honey season and -its many pleasing occupations. A good supply of new straw -hives (where they are used) is supposed to be already in hand, -with glasses and covers, depriving-hives, adapting-boards, Bee-dresses -for the operator and an assistant, and indeed, of everything -that will be required during the season.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span>—I must again press upon all persons who have weak -stocks the necessity of feeding. The Bees are beginning to -bestir themselves when the sun shines warm; and inexperienced -Bee-keepers are apt to think that their stocks are now past -danger, and so take no more care of them. But the truth is, that -the early spring months are the most dangerous of all; many -stocks that have stood the winter die in the spring, which a few -ounces even of food would prevent. There is nothing to be -gathered in the fields till April, and in cold late seasons not muck -before even May. Stocks should be watched well in spring, and -weak ones fed liberally. As soon as they begin to stir a little -food should be given them every other day, or thereabouts, until -they refuse to take it, for they will neglect the food given them -as soon as they can gather honey.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Method of Feeding.</span>—The best manner of giving food to -Bees in a common straw hive is to put it into a dinner-plate, -cover it with a piece of writing paper thickly perforated, and -place it under the hive; but should there not be sufficient room<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span> -for the plate without touching the combs, the hive may be -raised upon a wooden hoop, the exact size of the hive, and about -2 inches deep, or upon a piece cut from the bottom of an old -straw hive. The food must be given after sunset, and the plate -removed by sunrise the next morning. The entrance must be -stopped while the food remains in the hive; a piece of soft paper -answers remarkably well for this purpose.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Water.</span>—This must be supplied to the Bees immediately, for -it is in the spring that they have the greatest occasion for it. -The plan that I have adopted is to have a trough of wood, or -stone, 18 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 6 inches deep, sunk in -the ground in the immediate vicinity of the apiary, with a piece -of thin wood, thickly perforated with small holes, made to fit -loosely into it. This perforated wood, when the trough is filled -with water, will float upon its surface, and save the Bees from -drowning—a mode of death causing the loss of numbers should -they, for want of this little accommodation, be obliged to go to -an open cistern or pool.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives.</span>—It is now quite time to have a supply of hives for the -coming season, where new ones are required; and where old -ones are to be used, to have them well cleaned. It is also a -good time to paint those hives that are occupied—it will greatly -improve their appearance, as well as tend to preserve them. A -well-made hive, painted before the Bees are put into it, and once -every other year afterwards, will last uninjured for upwards, -of twenty years; indeed, I have one at the present time that -has stood even much longer. They may be painted after six -o'clock in the evening without danger to the operator or inconvenience -to the Bees; of course, stopping the mouth of the hive -for the time. I find stone or straw colour to be the best, as -absorbing less heat than green or any dark colour. Perhaps, -on this account, white would be best, but the strong reflected -light from it is very objectionable.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Floor-boards.</span>—It will be well to give the floor-boards a -final cleaning for the season, and the middle of a bright day will -be the best time for doing it; and, at the same time, any pieces -of comb that during the winter may have fallen from the top of -the hives, and are fastened by the Bees to the bottom of the -combs that are in their proper places, should be removed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cutting out Old Combs.</span>—This is also the best time to -remove a leaf or two of comb from old hives, perhaps the two -outermost ones, but not any more. The box hives are admirably -adapted for this operation; still, with a proper knife (the one -figured in <a href="#fig_26">page 57</a>), it may easily be effected in the straw hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Putting on Glasses, &c.</span>—It is very probable that at the -end of the month some of the most populous hives may require -supering, as it is termed, but I would advise its not being done -too soon; indeed, not till the Bees have shown evident signs of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span> -want of room, for it is exceedingly desirable that the stock -should be in such a state as to ascend into the super immediately -upon its being placed upon the stock hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Guide-combs.</span>—I would recommend guide-combs being fixed -in glasses of every kind that are to be placed either on hives or -boxes. The Bees are induced thereby to commence working in -them sooner than they otherwise would do; and it must always -be remembered, that simply putting on a glass, a box, or a small -hive, will not prevent swarming, except the Bees commence -working in it, which a small piece of comb fixed at the top induces -them to do more readily. Upon each of the side-bars, -nearest the centre one, a small piece of comb should be fixed. -This is easily effected by heating a common flat-iron, slightly -warming the bars with it, then melting a little Bees-wax upon -it. The comb is now drawn quickly across the heated iron, and -held down upon the bar, to which it firmly adheres, if properly -managed. These pieces of guide-comb need not be more than -2 or 3 inches in diameter. Care should be taken that the pitch, -or inclination of the cells, is upwards from the centre of each -comb. Drone-celled combs for this purpose are to be avoided, as -well as those with elongated cells. Glasses will be provided, -and guide-combs fixed in them also.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pollen.</span>—This is not a busy month for the apiarian only, but -for his Bees as well in bringing in pollen. Mr. Golding tells us -that the neighbourhood of Willows is of great advantage to the -Bees in early spring. Should a few fine days accompany their -flowering, many hives will be enabled to ward off the impending -famine which but too often then threatens. He says that from -the 20th to the 30th of March, in 1830, the weather was so -favourable as to enable the Bees to make an extraordinary collection. -Single hives in some days gained in weight upwards of -3 lbs. each, and worked in wax where room was given as vigorously -as at midsummer. The spring of 1841 was a very similar -one; and he says that his hives on the 16th of March of that -year gained from 2 to 3 lbs. each during the day.</p> - -<p>The whole tribe of Crowsfoot are now making their appearance, -all of which are eagerly sought after by the Bees, but -more especially the Pilewort (<i>Ranunculus ficaria</i>), which affords -them such an abundance of pollen during the months of March -and April, and which abounds in meadows, pastures, and hedge-banks. -Seeing an abundance of it carried into a hive is a sure -proof that the stock is in a healthy and thriving state; but let it -Be remembered that pollen has nothing whatever to do with supplying -the Bees with food, for they will die from starvation with -the combs filled with pollen, for it is only in the larvæ or grub -state that they eat it: therefore, if the stocks have not a store -of honey, go on to give barley-sugar.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Young Bees.</span>—The population of every healthy stock of Bees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span> -is now rapidly increasing, and numbers of young ones may be -seen upon every sunny day crowding the entrances of the hives -to exercise their wings for the first time, which they may be -observed to do with the greatest caution, running from side to -side of the alighting-board before venturing to fly. The imperfect -nymphs, also, are strewed upon the hives during the -night to be carried away by the Bees as soon as the hour of -labour commences. This circumstance also indicates a rapidly -increasing population. A very large quantity of food is consumed -by the young Bees while in the larvæ or maggot state, -which draws very heavily upon the store of the food of the -hive. It, therefore,, behoves the apiarian to look attentively to -all weak stocks, and more especially to swarms of the last year, -and to let them have a regular supply of food; and, for those -who like but little trouble in feeding, dry barley-sugar is, unquestionably, -the best mode in which it can be administered; it -may be given either at the top or bottom of the hive, for it does -not, like liquid food, attract robbers to the hives that are supplied -with it.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Drone Bees.</span>—Drone Bees usually make their appearance -towards the middle or the end of this month; their first appearance -is very gratifying to the Bee-keeper, for it proves to him -that his stocks are in a healthy and prosperous condition. It is -said that the celebrated apiarian Bonner was always so delighted -at their first appearance, that he made the day one of festivity -and rejoicing for himself and all his family.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Robbers.</span>—As considerable robberies frequently take place -in this month among the Bees, attention is required to discover -if any hives are attacked; and when it is found to be the case, -it will be necessary to narrow the entrance of the hive, so that -only one or two Bees at most can go in at the same time. The -weak stocks, in general, are those that suffer from pillage. -Robber Bees may easily be distinguished from others, for they -fly rapidly round the hive, and hover before the entrance for -some time before alighting; and when they venture to do so -they are generally seized by some of the sentinels which guard -the entrance.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Queen Wasps.</span>—The destruction of queen wasps, which are -now beginning to make their appearance, will prove the best -security against their progeny, those formidable enemies of the -Bee. In April and May they are very easily captured, and every -one now destroyed would probably have been the founder of a -nest, which may be computed at 30,000 at the least.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Moths.</span>—Moths are by far the most dangerous enemies the -Bees have to contend with. It is the caterpillars of these moths -which gnaw and destroy the combs; and they would soon be -ruined by these insects, if the Bees did not offer the greatest -opposition to their ravages. The perfect insect (<i>Galleria cerreana</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span> -and <i>Galleria alvearia</i>) may be seen fluttering about the hive at -sunset, from April to October, and should be promptly destroyed -whenever observed.</p> - - -<h3 id="MAY">MAY.</h3> - -<p>The most interesting as well as the most active month in the -apiarian's calendar has now commenced; food for his little -favourites abounds in every direction, and no fear need now be -entertained of famine. The population of the hives will have -increased considerably, and drones by this time are making -their appearance, which proves that the stocks are in a healthy -and vigorous state, and should be a subject of congratulation to -every Bee-keeper. "Early drones, early swarms," is a maxim, -the truth of which every experienced apiarian is well acquainted -with.</p> - -<p>To those persons who are managing their Bees upon the -depriving system, the time will now have arrived for supplying -each stock with a small hive, box, or bell-glass; and should the -season prove a favourable one, the supply, also, of a second may -be found necessary before the end of the month.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Method of Placing the Bell-glass, Box, or Small Hive -upon the Improved Cottage Hive.</span>—Take the moveable piece -of straw-work from the top of the hive (see <a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>), and place -it upon the adapting board (see <a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>); then put the bell-glass, -small hive, or box (see <a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>), upon this adapter, and cover the -whole with a milk-pan to defend them from wet. Should a -bell-glass be preferred, it must be covered with something that -will effectually exclude light. A cover of straw is, perhaps, the -best. It is very desirable to fix a piece of clean comb inside -the glass, and this may very easily be done by warming the -perforated zinc tube, which is sold with the glasses, and then -pressing the piece of comb upon it. Should the comb reach -from the top to the bottom of the glass, so much the better; for -the Bees will then begin to work upon it immediately.</p> - -<p>Those persons whose Bees are now in common straw hives -may, if they please, commence with the above system at once. -Bet them in the middle of a fine clear day, with a strong sharp -knife, cut out from the top of the hive a piece of the straw-work, -4 inches in diameter, and then place over the opening the adapting -board, &c., as directed above. Should the combs be a little -broken at the top of the hive it matters not. Indeed, it is rather -to be wished that they should be so; for the Bees in repairing -them are induced to carry their work upwards in the glass or -box that is given them. This operation may be done without -any protection whatever by an experienced person; for if done -at a proper time and well managed, not a Bee will take wing. -All operations, except joining swarms, should be performed on a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span> -fine clear day, and between the hours of twelve and two o'clock. -At the same time, such operations are done with much less -annoyance to the Bees, as well as with less chance of danger to -the operator. I generally perform all the operations required in -this system without the defence even of a pair of gloves; but I -would not recommend any person to do so until he has had -many years' experience in the management of Bees; for being -perfectly defended in every part against their stings, gives that -coolness and confidence to the operator upon which the happy -accomplishment of his intentions so much depends. Coolness -and confidence on the part of the operator are essential qualifications; -for anything approaching to hurry irritates Bees exceedingly. -Indeed, the hand ought never to be hastily removed -from one position to another. "Quietness," says Dr. Bevan, -"is the surest protection against being stung."</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Defence.</span>—The best defence that I have found is a mask of -wire similar to a fencing mask, and a pair of very thick worsted -gloves. It should be remembered that nothing is either more -offensive or more irritating to Bees than the human breath: -therefore, the breathing upon them must at all times be most -carefully avoided.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Covering for Glasses.</span>—When the Bees are beginning to -work in a glass, a cold night generally obliges them to forsake -their newly-made combs, and to discontinue their labours, which -are seldom resumed till the middle of the next day. To prevent -this delay, I would recommend the space between the glass -and its cover to be filled with fine tow or wool, the temperature -of the glass being thereby kept up, and the Bees enabled to -carry on their labours without interruption. Wool is to be -preferred from its not being so good a conductor of heat as tow.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives.</span>—The time has now arrived for those persons who are -wishing their Bees to swarm to have a supply of hives in readiness; -and where straw hives are used, I would recommend new -ones in all cases, except where a swarm of the last year has died, -and the combs still remaining in the hive, the combs being dry -and free from mould. A hive of this kind is a great help to a -swarm; for one treated in this manner will generally be found -Better than one a fortnight or three weeks earlier that has been -put into an empty hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Depriving-Hives, or Supers.</span>—It will now be time to have -small hives, boxes or glasses, in readiness to place upon stock -hives. Each box, or glass, should have a few pieces of guide-comb -neatly fixed in it; but refrain from putting them on until -there are evident signs of want of room. This may be ascertained -by the Bees thickening at the entrance, and by a loud -hum inside; for if put on too early it will retard the hatching of -the brood, as well as give the Bees an unwillingness to enter it -at all. The most desirable time for placing a glass or box<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span> -upon a stock hive, is the exact time when they will enter it -immediately; but the knowledge of this, I am aware, is attended -with some difficulty. I have always found, that by giving a -glass too early in the season, Bees appear to take a dislike to it, -and will swarm rather than enter it. When I have been able -to put a glass upon a crowded hive at about nine o'clock on the -morning of a warm day, it has scarcely ever failed to be filled -with Bees immediately. Be the super of wood, glass, or straw, -a small piece of guide-comb is a great inducement to the Bees -to begin working in it at once.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ventilation.</span>—It has been my practice for some years to give -all the ventilation possible to my stocks in boxes, by withdrawing -all the slides about October, and keeping them open to the end -of April: for then no condensed vapour can injure either the -combs or the Bees, and then shutting them for a week or two -before putting on the glasses, so that, upon again opening them, -the Bees immediately take possession of the supers, and begin -their work in them.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Driving Bees from one Hive to Another.</span>—I am frequently -applied to by beginners for the best plan of removing a -stock of Bees, at this season, from an old hive to some fancy one -they have chanced to meet with, and I have, in all cases, said -that it is a plan I have never either adopted or recommended. -Let the Bees remain in the old hive, and if it be too unsightly -to be tolerated, have a tasty cover of wood or zinc made to fit it -and let them swarm, and put the swarm into the new hive. If -a weak one, join the second swarm to it; if not, hive the second -swarm in the usual manner, and then in September, either by -driving or fumigating the Bees in the old hive, join them to the -second swarm.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Swarms.</span>—Those persons who are anxious to commence Bee-keeping -by purchasing swarms, must now provide themselves -with such kinds of hives as they are wishing to see their Bees -placed in, and send them to the persons of whom they have -agreed to purchase, that the Bees maybe hived into them at the -time of swarming. Should it be straw hives that are chosen, -let there be no sticks placed withinside them for the Bees to -fasten their combs to, for they cause them much trouble in -forming the combs, and render the extraction of the combs -almost impossible. Let there be no sugared ale nor honey put -inside the hive, but let it be as clean and dry as possible; and -when it is fixed where it is to remain let there be no mortar or -clay put round to fasten it to the floor-board—the Bees themselves -will do this more effectually. Clay or mortar tends very -much to decay the hives by retaining moisture, and is a harbour -for moths and other insects. On the depriving system, a hive -may be expected to stand for fifteen or even twenty years, if -properly managed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span></p> - -<p>Purchasers should endeavour to obtain the very earliest -swarms in May, if there be any, but on no account to have them -after the 14th or 15th of June; and it is very important to -observe, that whenever a swarm is purchased, it must be removed -to the place in which it is to remain upon the evening of -the day it swarmed; for should its removal be delayed even till -the evening of the next day, the combs will in all probability -be broken, and the stock destroyed. Let it be remembered, that -the prosperity of the hive will much (perhaps entirely) depend -upon its being finally placed upon the evening of the day it -swarmed. It must be a very peculiar kind of day to induce a -first swarm to emigrate. It must be a balmy still day, and -something besides that I cannot discover, for there may be -several days to all appearance alike, and upon one of these days -everybody's Bees shall swarm, whilst not another swarm, perhaps, -shall be heard of on any other day for some time. This -late swarming will be a sad disappointment to those who are -commencing Bee-keeping this summer, who indeed, are not a -few; and I congratulate each one of them, for they will find in -the management and observation of their Bees a constant and -increasing source of interest and amusement.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Premature Swarms</span>, or the whole population of a hive leaving -it, and alighting at a distance from it; in the usual manner:—This -generally happens early in May. The best plan that can -be adopted in these cases is to unite the Bees to another stock, -if they should not join one of themselves; for if put into a hive -they generally leave it or die. The cause usually arises from -poverty, or the old age of the queen.</p> - -<p>Should we have a dry May, swarms may be expected at the -end of the month: therefore it will be good policy to have every -arrangement for their reception made in good time; but June -must be the month for honey. "None in June, none afterwards, -depend on it." The honey harvest comes on all at once, and -very seldom lasts longer than a fortnight, so that additional room -should be in readiness if required.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Enemies.</span>—Queen wasps are now showing themselves, and -should be sought after and destroyed, both by gardeners and -apiarians. A few mild days in February usually tempt them -out, when the cold which follows kills them, or renders them so -feeble as to be easily captured; but now they come at once from -their hiding-places to a temperature of 60°. The destruction of -the queens, therefore, is important both to the gardener as well -as to the apiarian; and, as soon as they are seen to alight, discharge -a syringe full of water upon them, which is sure to bring -them to the ground, when they may be crushed easily with the -foot. Watch carefully for moths. Should the Bees of any hive -appear inactive about this time, or should they not be seen to -carry in pellets of pollen, whilst others are doing it, and this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span> -inaction continue for eight or ten days, lose no time in examining -the hive; and should the moths have begun their work of destruction, -which may be known by seeing their combs joined together -by their silken webs, cut away the combs affected with a sharp -knife, and the hive may perhaps be saved.</p> - -<p>The house sparrow may also be ranked amongst the enemies -of Bees, for I have observed, for the last four or five years, the -female birds flying from the ground up to the mouth of the -hive, and catching the Bees just before, or as they take wing, -and away with them to their young ones when their nest is nigh -the apiary. I have seen as many as six or eight journeys made -in a quarter of an hour by the female bird only. The male -appears to take no part in it. I have never witnessed the like -at any other time but when the birds have young to provide for; -therefore it would be well to have all the nests in the immediate -neighbourhood of the apiary destroyed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span>—Weak stocks must still continue to have barley-sugar -supplied to them, for during the prevalence of north and -easterly winds but little food can be collected.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pollen.</span>—Those stocks that are alive will be carrying in -pollen most abundantly of a golden yellow colour, which is -obtained from Crowsfoot, <i>Ranunculus ficaria</i>, and <i>Ranunculus -bulbosa</i>, but more especially from the former, it being the earliest -as well as the most abundant; for next to the Dandelion, it -makes our meadows brilliant. It is Shakspeare's "Cuckoo-buds -of yellow hue," and greatly indeed are our little favourites -indebted to it for a supply of food for their early progeny. The -Crocus lasts but a short time, and is met with only in gardens, -while this covers almost every meadow in the kingdom during -the months of March and April: therefore, how little advantage -arises from cultivating Bee-flowers, as they are frequently called, -for it is the fields, and the fields alone, that supply their store of -honey. Sow twenty acres of White Clover within a mile of -them and leave it for seed, and in the autumn twenty or thirty -acres of Buckwheat, and much benefit will arise; but the little -that a garden affords them is almost valueless.</p> - - -<h3 id="JUN">JUNE.</h3> - -<p>It will now be time to place <i>glasses</i> or <i>small hives</i> upon such -stocks as are not intended to swarm, and it will be well not to do -it until the bees begin to show evident signs of want of room; -for then they will ascend immediately into the glasses, and -commence working; but on the contrary, when they are put on -too early—that is, before the stock hives are full with Bees, they -will not go into them, but frequently swarm in preference; and -besides, opening the hive to put on the glass before it is full with.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span> -Bees causes a circulation of cold air through its centre, which -tends greatly to retard the hatching of the brood.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Guide-combs.</span>—A glass should never be put on without having -a piece or two of guide-comb placed at the top, which may easily -be effected by first warming the zinc tube, and then attaching -the comb to it whilst in that state.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Glasses.</span>—For the method of placing glasses, small hives, &c., -on the Improved Cottage Hive see <a href="#Page_54">page 54</a>, and for the treatment -of swarms generally, taking honey, expelling the Bees -from glasses, &c., see <a href="#Page_56">page 56</a>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bar Hives.</span>—Persons who have possessed themselves of these -excellent hives are by this time anxiously looking for swarms -to put into them, or quite as anxiously watching the progress -of those already at work in them. The guide-combs being -properly fixed will insure their working regularly upon the -bars of the stock box, but not quite so surely upon those of -the upper one; for, notwithstanding every precaution being -taken to prevent it, they will sometimes commence working -their combs from the top of the stock box, which forms the -floor of the upper one. This must be attentively watched for -the first three or four days after opening the communication -between the boxes, and any comb observed in this position must -be immediately removed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Artificial Swarms.</span>—The present is a good time for obtaining -artificial swarms, and where any form of the "Bar Hives" is used, -the process is very simple, and may be thus effected:—From -ten to twelve o'clock, on a bright morning, remove the board -from the top of the parent hive; select a bar, the comb on which -contains both eggs and brood, and if a royal cell, all the better, -but this is not important; place the bar with comb in some convenient -place, so that it is neither bruised nor separated from the -bar; then turn up the parent hive, after having fastened down -the top, and place the one intended for the new swarm upon it, -observing that the junction is perfect; then, by a continuous -gentle tapping upon the parent hive for a few minutes, a portion -of the Bees will have ascended into the hive. Remove the -parent hive 60 or 100 yards, placing it upon a fresh floor-board, -and place the new hive exactly in the place of the old one, and -upon the same floor-board; and, as quickly as possible, introduce -the bar of comb filled with eggs and brood into its centre, -replace the top, and endeavour to have the exterior of the hive -as little altered in appearance as may be; it will then be found -that the few Bees driven into the new hive, with the number -returning to it that were out at work, with some that may come -from the parent hive, will altogether make a fair-sized swarm. -The parent hive will, in all probability, give another swarm in -about fourteen days.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Swarming.</span>—The time for swarms is now very nigh at hand,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span> -if we are to have any; but in weak stocks it is not very desirable. -However, if they come, the best must be made of them. -By all means let the new swarm be placed where it is to remain -as soon as it is settled in its new hive, which rarely exceeds ten -minutes. This will save the Bees much loss of time, as well as -numbers of them their lives. When there is dull and cold -weather in March and April, and even May, many stocks become -weak and feeble, and numbers entirely perish; therefore, swarming, -generally, must be later than usual; and those persons who -are wishing to prevent it altogether must not be satisfied by -simply placing boxes or glasses upon their stocks, but they must -also see that the Bees take possession of them, and the best -method to secure this is not to put the supers on until the Bees -begin to be a little inconvenienced for want of room; and then, -by placing a bit or two of guide-comb, as before directed, into -the super, the Bees will enter it at once and commence working.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Queenless Stocks.</span>—It is not at all unusual at this season to -see the Bees of some hives, although possessing a good store of -honey, quite inactive, carrying in no pollen, and basking in the -sun at the mouth of the hive, but still giving smart resistance -to a robber if he ventures to make an entry. This arises from -the old age or death of the queen; and, if the Bees are numerous,, -will go on in the same manner nearly through the summer. -But, if the numbers be few, robbers will attack them, and little -or no resistance will be offered; but frequently the Bees themselves -will assist in carrying off the store to the pirates' home, -where the queenless Bees will meet with a ready welcome. The -best method to adopt in such a case is to introduce a piece of -comb from a strong hive, which contains both brood and eggs, -and ultimately do very well. In Taylor's Bar Hive this process -is very easily effected, by merely taking a bar of comb from one -hive and introducing it into another, or a piece of comb, with -eggs and brood, may be fixed in a bell-glass, and placed upon -the queenless hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Queen Wasps.</span>—To destroy these "Bead's Syringe" is a very -useful instrument, for by discharging it at them when they -alight, it is sure to bring them to the ground, when the foot may -easily be put upon them. It is important to every apiarian and -gardener, but more especially the former, to destroy all they can -at this season.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Early Breeding.</span>—Many plans have been adopted to effect -this very desirable object, and none entirely without success, -but variously, according to the means used. The hives that -have been simply bound with haybands are certainly earlier -than those that have not; but those that have been covered -with loose sacking, and then bound tightly round with oil-cloth, -so that when the coverings were taken off for a few minutes the -outside of the hive felt quite warm, are earlier still; whilst those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span> -placed in a greenhouse are earlier than either; but the earliest -are those covered with fermenting stable-litter; yes, literally -placed in the centre of a hotbed, leaving only a passage for the -ingress and egress of the Bees.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Proper Time for Taking Honey.</span>—It is probable that in -favourable situations, towards the close of the present month, -some glasses, small hives, or boxes of honey may be in a sufficiently -forward state to allow of their being taken off, which -may be known by their being filled with honey, and the combs -all sealed up; or they may remain till those placed beneath them -are also sealed up. Upon very strong and populous hives, in a -good season, it is necessary to place even a third; but this -must be removed with great caution, and certainly not before the -end of August, or the beginning of September, and not then -unless the parent hive contains full 20 lbs. of honey.</p> - - -<h3 id="JUL">JULY.</h3> - -<p>Swarming is frequently much later than usual if May be wet -and cold, and the stocks be very weak. It is very probable that -second and third swarms will be coming in July, and should it -prove so, we would recommend their being united to late swarms, -or three or four of them being put together.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Returning Swarms.</span>—The necessity for returning swarms in -some seasons, I think, will be apparent to every one at all acquainted -with Bee management, and, indeed, in some cases of -returning swarms; but this cannot be done with any chance of -success but in a bar hive, and there the operator is sure to -succeed. The manner of performing the operation will be as -follows:—As soon as the swarm has left the parent hive, proceed -immediately to open the hive and take out the bars, one by one, -and cutting from each comb every royal cell that is seen upon it, -and replacing the comb again in the hive. The cell in which -the queen Bee is born is entirely of a different construction from -that of either the drone or the common Bees. The cell of the -latter is placed horizontally in the hive, and that of the queen is -placed perpendicularly; that of the common Bee is an exact -hexagon, and that of the queen circular; besides, the cell of the -queen is always fixed at the sides of the combs, and generally -upon that near the middle of the hive. This operation of removing -the royal cells will take about five minutes; and, when -done, return the swarm immediately to the hive. The old queen -which led it off, finding by this process that there is no royal -brood left in the hive to succeed her, will not again attempt to -leave it. Persons who have never practised this method will be -surprised to find how easily it is accomplished; for the parent -hive will at this time be found to be almost depopulated from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span> -the numbers that have left it in the swarm, and those that are out -collecting. In some cases the help of a puff or two of tobacco-smoke -may be useful, should the few Bees left be angry, or the -operator feel at all timid. The readiest way of returning the -swarm will be to lay a board upon the floor-board of the hive, -and parallel with it, upon which, by a smart and sudden movement, -shake the swarm, and as nigh to the entrance of the parent -hive as can be done conveniently, and with the finger, or a piece -of wood, guide a few Bees to the entrance, and the remainder -will follow immediately.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Glasses and Small Hives.</span>—The proper time for opening -the communication between the boxes, as well as for putting -glasses or small hives upon swarms that are in the Improved -Cottage Hive, must in some measure depend upon the season. -In a good season it may be done from the eighteenth to the -twenty-first day after the time of their being hived. In some -seasons I have had a glass holding 10 lbs. of honeycomb filled in -less than a fortnight from the time of putting it on. When this -happens, a box or small hive should be placed between it and -the hive as directed at <a href="#Page_22">page 22</a>; or, in all probability, a second -swarm will be thrown off. To prevent this, every possible -means must be taken; for the swarm coming so late in the -season, as this must consequently be, is generally of no value, -except to unite to others, and the stock itself is so weakened by -it that it seldom lives through the following winter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Melted Combs.</span>—Shading should always be had recourse to -in such weather as that of the middle of July, and more especially -so for swarms of the year. In those cases where it has; -unfortunately taken place, it will be better to shade immediately -and nothing more, leaving the rest that is to be done entirely to -the Bees.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shading.</span>—Should the weather prove very hot and sultry, it -will be necessary to shade newly-hived swarms for a few hours -in a day, say from ten till two o'clock; a green bough answers -very well for this purpose—that from the fir trees, perhaps, is -the best, as well as the most durable. I have more than once -seen the combs of a newly-hived swarm so heated by a July -sun as to fall from the top of the hive, and the honey to run -in a stream from its entrance, consequently the stocks were -ruined.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wasps.</span>—I am quite sure that it is needful for us all to use -every means in our power for the destruction of these sad -enemies to our Bees. As "prevention is always better than -cure," that object is attained by capturing the queen wasps at -this time; and, indeed, as long as they can be seen. Some -persons recommend shooting them. I have always found a -garden-syringe to be a very useful thing; for if filled with water -and discharged at them, it seldom fails to bring them to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span> -ground, but it matters not by what means so that they are -destroyed.</p> - - -<h3 id="AUG">AUGUST.</h3> - -<p>I have already sufficiently insisted upon the necessity of -uniting second and third swarms, so that, amongst my readers, -not even one second or third swarm can be found by itself. It -should be impressed upon the mind of every apiarian, "that -the larger the colony at the outset, the better the Bees will -work, and the more prosperous it will become." A stock weak -at the outset <i>never</i> does well. The method of returning, as given -at <a href="#Page_53">page 53</a>, is very simple, and may be accomplished in a few -minutes, even by the most inexperienced person.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Returning Swarms.</span>—Returning first or second swarms to -their parent hive, is not only attended with much trouble, and, -generally, with a failure of the object desired, but also with -much loss of time to the Bees, and that at a season of the year -when every hour is of importance to them. A swarm left a -Nutt's hive on the 3rd of June; the queen was captured, and -the swarm returned. Within a few days of the time before -mentioned it came out again, and was treated in a similar -manner; and so it continued to go on until nearly the end of -the month, when the swarm, instead of being returned to the -parent hive, as had been done so many times before, was hived -into an improved cottage hive, where it did very well; but -during the whole time that swarming was going on, which -occupied three weeks, and these the best three weeks of the year, -working was entirely suspended (which is always the case), and -not a pound of honey was stored; whereas, had the swarm been -put in the cottage hive in the first instance, from 15 to 20 lbs. of -honey would, in all probability, have been collected by it in that -time. An apiarian, in Norfolk, some years since, had a stock of -Bees in a favourite hive, which, very much against his wishes, -and notwithstanding every means having been taken to prevent -it, sent out a swarm. He captured the queen, and returned the -swarm; after a few days the swarm came forth again, and was -treated in the same manner, and it went on to swarm for either -seven or nine times, and was returned as many times, except the -last, when it was put into a new hive. Thirteen queens were -captured and destroyed during this process, very nearly a month -was spent in swarming and being returned, and, consequently, -no work was done during that time; the result of which was -that the best part of the season having been lost neither swarm -nor stock was of any value. I would, therefore, say, Let all be -done that can be done to prevent swarming, by giving room and -ventilation, which has very rarely failed; but if, after every -means has been used to prevent swarming, a swarm should come<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span> -off, never attempt returning it, but hive it by itself in the usual -manner.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Early Swarms.</span>—Now, as early swarms appear to be so very -desirable, it may be asked, What are the most likely means of -insuring them? And, in reply to this question, I would say, -Leave the stocks rich in store in the autumn, the contents of -each hive weighing, at least, from 20 to 25 lbs., and let the population -also of each hive be very numerous; if it be not so, add -the Bees from weak hives into it.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Autumnal Unions.</span>—Where second and third swarms have -been hived by themselves, they will generally be found too poor -to live through the winter, even with feeding; and, where this -has been done, they may be put two or three together in the -manner directed at <a href="#Page_60">page 60</a>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Taking Honey.</span>—Those persons who have been so fortunate -as to get their glasses filled with honey will now be preparing -to take them off; but I would recommend every one to do it -with great caution; and not only first to weigh the matter well -in their own minds, but also to weigh their <i>hives</i>, and if it can -be satisfactorily proved that they will contain 20 lbs. of honey -each when the glasses are removed, all well; but if not, let the -glass or box remain upon the stock hive until the bees have -emptied it of its honey; as soon as this is ascertained, let it be -removed.</p> - -<p>Some persons having found much difficulty in expelling the -Bees from a glass or box, after having removed it from the stock -hive, and others who have complained of the time occupied in -effecting this object, may adopt the following very ingenious and -useful apparatus, invented by Mr. Antram, a clergyman of -Devonshire, and which has been kindly handed to me, with his -permission to make it public. It is a contrivance for emptying -a hive of its occupants; it may also be applied to a bell-glass, or -box, either at top or attached to a board on which the removed -glass is placed. He calls it his</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bee-trap</span>; and it is, he says, "An invention for taking the -honey from every description of double hive, which is not only -simple, but very efficacious, and entertaining to watch. I -should premise that every extra box or hive must be furnished -with a second aperture <i>never</i> to be opened except when the -honey is to be taken. Provide a block of wood 1 inch longer and -half an inch deeper than the aperture, and 3 or 4 inches wide; -cut the front to an angle of 45° or less; then cut out of the -under part a groove the exact size of the aperture, thus leaving -a thickness of half an inch of wood at the sides and top. Get a -piece of talc, or very thin horn (glass is too heavy), cement -or gum it to a piece of ribbon, which latter fasten to what -remains of the sloping front above; divide the talc into portions -about a quarter of an inch wide. A tin bottom should be affixed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span> -to the whole, to which the talc must reach, and on which it -must rest.</p> - -<p>"When you wish to empty a hive place this before the -opening before mentioned, and cut off the communication between -the hives; the Bees, seeing the light, will one by one -push up the small pieces of talc and escape; the talc falls back -in its place; thus there is no re-entering, and your hive becomes -rapidly emptied. There is here no previous removing of the -hive or box, no danger of a sting, and no fear of robbers; -even if the queen be there, she, finding herself deserted by her -subjects, will soon depart, and re-enter the stock hive by the -accustomed entrance. It acts upon the same principle as the -old wire rat-trap. Two loops of tin, with holes through, are -added, to fasten or suspend it, when there is no alighting-board. -It may be placed on the top of a box, but must then -have a hole in the bottom, and a slip of tin by way of a back; -the tin bottom may project a little beyond the lower edge of the -talc in front, and, indeed, it is better so."</p> - -<p>This useful contrivance I feel assured will be adopted by -many persons; for it will entirely prevent the tediousness of -watching a glass of honey until the Bees have left it, which -without this protection is at all times necessary, and more especially -so when taken late in the season, and robbers are on every -side. I have more than once seen a good glass of honey emptied -of every drop by them when carelessly left by its owner for a -few hours; now, with this trap attached, it may be left even for -days with perfect safety.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Taking off Glasses of Honey.</span>—Some persons, I doubt -not, are beginning to be anxious to possess themselves of a few -glasses of honey from their Bees. If the combs are sealed up -they may be taken; but I would recommend every one who -attempts it during hot weather to be more than commonly careful -how they remove them, or the combs will fall out.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="fig_26" style="width: 385px;"> - <img src="images/fig_26.png" width="385" height="49" alt="" /> - <div class="figcaption">Fig. 26.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Knife for Cutting out Combs.</span>—This knife, which is so -simple in its construction, and so easily used, deserves to be -made generally known. Gelieu, to whom apiarians are much -indebted, tells us that in Switzerland it is commonly used, and -that the combs, from hives of any shape or materials, are extracted -without any difficulty. It is formed of a strip of steel -2 feet long by one-eighth of an inch thick; the handle is -20 inches long by half an inch broad. The turn-down blade, of -2 inches in length, is spear-pointed, sharp on the edges, and bent -so as to form an angle of 90° with the handle; the other blade is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span> -2 inches long by 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> inch broad, and sharpened all round. The -broad blade cuts and separates the combs from the sides of the -hives; and the spear point, which is also sharp on each side, -admits, from its direction and narrowness, of being introduced -between the combs to loosen them from the top of the hive.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Entrances to Hives to re Narrowed.</span>—Towards the end -of this month it will be necessary to contract the entrances of -the hives, that the Bees may be better enabled to defend themselves -from the attacks of wasps. In Taylor's Hive, these -things are supplied; but, in the Cottage Hive, I have found -wedges of cork of different sizes to answer remarkably well.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wasps' Nests to be Destroyed.</span>—It will be well to have -diligent search made in the neighbourhood of the apiary for -wasps' nests, and to have them destroyed, for which purpose -the spirit of turpentine appears to answer remarkably well. The -usual method of procedure, I believe, is to put a small quantity -into a common wine bottle, to put the mouth of the bottle into -the hole leading to the nest, and surrounding it with earth. -Very little turpentine is required—merely as much as will wet -the sides of the bottle. If applied in the evening every wasp -will be dead the following morning. In no instance have I -known it to fail of the desired effect, except in cases where the -nest is deep in the ground, or at a greater distance from the -mouth of the hole than was anticipated. A failure may sometimes -occur when there happen to be two entrances to the nest -instead of one; but a second application on the following evening -is sure to prove effectual.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Additional Room.</span>—It will be quite useless to give additional -room to any colony of Bees, be they ever so prosperous, after the -month of July is ended; for the honey season is fast drawing to -a close, and the population of the hives very much upon the -decrease, not only from the killing of the drones, but by the death -of numbers of the workers.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Transporting Hives.</span>—In a fine season, and in the prospect -of a fine autumn, every person whose locality admits of it should -embrace the opportunity of sending his hives to the moors. The -advantages must be incalculable, not only in quantity, but in the -delicious quality of the honey there obtained.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shading.</span>—Should the present month prove hot it will be well -to screen the swarms of the present year from the intense heat -of the sun, or the combs, being new and tender, may be melted -by it; where this unfortunately happens the stock is usually -destroyed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Robbers.</span>—Late swarms and stocks that are weak must be -closely watched, and if the least appearance of robbing discovers -itself, the entrance to the hive must be closed so as to admit but -one Bee at a time.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dressing Hives.</span>—It would be well if this practice was discontinued<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span> -altogether; for when done in the most judicious -manner the Bees are greatly annoyed by it. A clean dry hive -is more pleasing to them than one besmeared with ale, honey, -fennel, and all the other good things used by good dames of old. -I heard of one having been washed, or smeared, with cream and -sugar, and in so profuse a manner that the Bees, which had to -travel an hour by rail, were found at the end of their journey to -be completely saturated with it, a large portion of them dead, -and the remainder in such a state as to render it necessary to -kill them the next day, to the vexation and disappointment -of the gentleman to whom they were sent, who had been impatiently -waiting their arrival for some weeks. Cream I should -imagine to be the most disagreeable thing that could be thought -of for this purpose, except it should be oil, which is well known -to kill a Bee, or almost any insect, the instant it touches it, and -this cream I believe was some of the far-famed Devonshire, -which in its rich and buttery nature approaches very closely -indeed to oil.</p> - - -<h3 id="SEP">SEPTEMBER.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Removing Supers.</span>—It is now quite time to remove glasses -and supers of every kind from hives intended for stocks, and to -see that each one contains at least 20 lbs. of honey; if not, they -had better at once be made up to that weight by feeding. At -this time of year I would recommend syrup in preference to -barley-sugar, because it can be given in larger quantities, and -stored more quickly. Honey is, unquestionably, the best food -that can be given; and, next to it, a compound of honey, loaf -sugar, and water. Barley-sugar is more suited to spring feeding, -when but little is required. The proportions are, one pound of -sugar, one-quarter of a pint of water, and one-quarter of a pound of -honey, mixed and simmered over a slow fire till the sugar is melted.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Early Breeding.</span>—In our fitful climate this is a most important -thing to effect, and every possible means for promoting it -should be used; therefore in addition to what I have already -said in the calendar for last month—viz., leaving the stocks rich -in store, as well as in Bees, I would now say, Keep the stocks as -cool as possible till the end of February; and if, as has already -been said, that cold retards the hatching of the brood, warmth -may be supposed to promote it. I would therefore recommend, -where it is at all practicable, at the end of February to increase -the temperature of the hives, by defending them externally -from the cold of March and April, by any means that may the -most readily be had recourse to for the purpose. Perhaps binding -the hives neatly over with haybands would be as little trouble -and inexpensive as anything.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shading.</span>—It is very desirable to shade the hives from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span> -winter's sun, for the Bees are not unfrequently tempted thereby -to leave their hives, never to return.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stocks for Next Season.</span>—The time will soon arrive for -setting apart stocks to stand through the winter. Each one -intended for this purpose should be made to weigh from 20 to -25 lbs., and the Bees of all weak or very old stocks, the hives of -which are decaying so as not to stand with safety through another -season, should be driven to those that are the least populous in -the apiary; for it must be remembered, that net only a good -store of provision, but that a large quantity of Bees, also, is -necessary to secure success for another year.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Driving.</span>—For performing this operation, as well as for almost -all others, I very much prefer the middle of a bright day to any -other time. The process is very simple, and may be effected in -a few minutes. I very much wish that I could persuade all my -cottage friends to adopt it, instead of the cruel and wasteful -method of "burning;" for in weak stocks the Bees themselves -are frequently of as much value as their little store of honey and -wax; and, by joining them to other stocks, very considerable -advantages arise. My method of driving is this:—On a bright -day, between eleven and one o'clock, turn the hive from which -the Bees are to be driven bottom upwards, in a shaded corner of -the garden, and place upon it a hive of the same size; see that -they fit closely, and to make the junction more complete, tie a -cloth round the hives where they meet. Then, with two sticks, -keep up a gentle but continuous tapping upon the sides of the -inverted hive for about ten minutes, the Bees will by that time -have left it and gone into the upper one. Having ascertained -that fact, take it immediately to the place where the driven hive -was taken from, and place it upon the same floor-board; carry the -driven hive 50 or 60 yards away, and place it upon a fresh floor-board; -the few Bees that remain in it, as well as those that are -out at work, will return to the driven Bees. All is now finished -until an hour after sunset, except emptying the driven hive of its -store, when two sticks may be laid upon the ground about -8 inches apart, opposite the stock to which the driven Bees are -to be joined; then, with a smart stroke dash out the Bees -between the sticks, and instantly, but very gently, place the -stock they are intended to enter upon the sticks; leave them for -the night, having first defended them from rain, should any -fall; and in the morning, an hour before sunrise, replace the -stock in its original position, and all will be peace and harmony. -Here, then, will be an increased population—a stock thereby -enabled to stand through the winter much better, and to send -out a much earlier swarm, if swarms are desired, than if the -union had not being effected.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wasps.</span>—It will be well to destroy wasps' nests in those -localities where they are to be found.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stands.</span>—The end of the month will be a good time to examine -the pedestals upon which the stocks are placed; for it is -not unusual to hear of a stock being destroyed by the pedestal -decaying just below the surface of the earth, so that by a strong -wind, or anything accidentally going against it, it is broken, and -the combs by the fall so misplaced as to reader the stock of little -or no value.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Preserving Hives of Comb.</span>—Where the Bees have deserted -their hives, and it is swarms of the present year that have generally -done so, the combs should be carefully preserved, by placing -the hives in some dry spot out of the reach of mice or insects, -for the purpose of hiving swarms into them in the spring. Tho -advantages afforded to a swarm by putting it into a hive of -fresh, clean comb, are scarcely to be credited by those who have -not experienced it.</p> - - -<h3 id="OCT">OCTOBER.</h3> - -<p>The time has now arrived for deciding upon which stocks are -to be set apart for standing through the winter, and which are -to be driven and joined to other stocks in the manner given in -the calendar for last month. Those set apart either for swarming -or working in glasses next year, should be rich both in Bees, -and honey, weighing, at least, from 20 to 25 lbs. each. Those -that are not so heavy must have a few pounds of food given to -them immediately, as well as having the Bees from weak stocks -joined to them.</p> - -<p>In giving the estimated weight which should be allowed for -the comb and Bees in hives of the first year, and when two, -three, four, or five years old, I would say, for a hive of seven -years standing, during the autumn and winter months, allow for -combs, Bees, and stored pollen, 7 lbs.; for one of six years, -6<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> lbs.; for five years, 5<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> lbs.; for four years, 4<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> lbs.; for three -years, 3<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> lbs.; for two years, 3 lbs.; and for one year, 2 lbs.</p> - -<p>Presuming the directions given in the calendar for September, -as to unions and feeding, have been attended to, but little attention -will be required this month beyond guarding against depredations -of wasps, which are frequently numerous at this season.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Winter Preparations.</span>—Glasses, small hives, and boxes, -should now all be removed from stock hives, where it can be done -without reducing the store below 20 lbs. The stands, likewise, -where wood is used, should be examined, and if found to be at -all unsound replaced with new ones.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Moors.</span>—Where Bees are kept in the vicinity of the -moors, or where they have been removed to them, an abundant -supply of honey will be obtained from the heather during fine -weather, an advantage quite unknown to the Bee-keepers of the -eastern counties.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wasps.</span>—For destroying wasps' nests, gas tar is even better -than turpentine, and their destruction is effected with much less -trouble, it being only necessary to put a small quantity into the -mouth of the nest, and cover it with earth; digging out the -nest, or anything further done, is quite unnecessary.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Robbers</span> will at this time be carrying on their depredations; -and should a serious attack be observed, the entrance must be -narrowed one-half at the least. Wedges of cork answer very -well for this purpose.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stocks.</span>—It is now full time for the stocks to be put in order -for the approaching winter. Defending them effectually from -wet is of the first importance. Narrowing the entrances to prevent -the ingress of mice is also necessary, as well as their destruction -in the neighbourhood of the apiary. Having done this, and -taken effectual means for keeping the hive free from damp, very -little fear need be entertained of their being carried safely through -the winter without any further attention beyond that of occasionally -cleaning the floor-boards, and shutting up the hive -whilst snow lies upon the ground.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Coverings.</span>—The coverings, also, to the hives should be made -secure against winds and rains. A milk-pan, notwithstanding -Its unsightly appearance, is the best protection for a hive, and -for the winter months more especially so.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stands.</span>—Let the pedestals which support the hive be well -looked to at this time. Although to the eye they may appear -sound, let them be examined 2 or 3 inches below the surface of -the ground, and should they be found in an unsound state replace -them by new ones: and if they are little charred before fixing, -it may be the means of preserving them a little longer.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bees with a North Aspect.</span>—Much has been said of late -as to the advantages arising from placing Bees with the hive's -entrance to the north, which the following letter from a gentleman -in Devonshire tends very much to strengthen. He says:—</p> - -<p>"In compliance with your wish, I visited B—— yesterday, -and, although not fortunate enough to find Mr. D. at home, I -had a long conversation with his gardener, who alone appears to -take any interest in the apiarian matters. One wooden hive, -brought by Mr. D. from Oxford, is placed behind a wall, through -which the Bees issue towards the south; another wooden hive is -completely embedded in shrubs, but the entrance faces the north. -There is a stock in a portion of a hollow tree, which was found -when the tree was cut down, and removed to its present position, -also facing the north, and a row of fifteen common straw hives -have the same aspect: thus you will perceive that seventeen -out of a total of eighteen stock are kept permanently facing the -north. The gardener states that he has preferred a north aspect -during the last ten years, and that he gets earlier swarms and -more honey than his neighbours. For two or three years previously<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span> -he kept half his Bees to the south, and half facing the -north, and by weighing them in the autumn and spring (September -and April), invariably found that those facing the south -consumed ten times the quantity of food as compared with the -others—for instance, if one consumed 10 lbs., the other consumed -but 1 lb.; and if one lost 15 lbs. during the winter, the -other would only diminish 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> lb.</p> - -<p>"I should state that B—— appears to me a first-rate locality, -being close to an extensive heath, now in full flower. The -gardener told me that not only had he no difficulty in maintaining -second swarms, or casts, during the winter, but that he considered -them quite equal to the first or prime swarms. The row -of straw hives is sheltered by trees and shrubs towards the south, -but lies exposed to the north wind, which the gardener considers -most important, as he attributes the diminished consumption in -the winter to the cold winds keeping the Bees torpid. The -above is all the information I was able to glean during a long -conversation, as no kind of memorandum of any of the experiments -has been kept, and in the hope that it may prove interesting, -I am, &c."</p> - -<p>Now, it must be remembered that this has been done in -Devonshire, and it is not unlikely that climate may have to be -considered as to aspect, and what may do in Devonshire might -not answer so well in colder parts. It has frequently been recommended -to give Bees an aspect more or less southerly in -summer, and a northerly one in winter; but there seems now -to be the strongest reason to expect that for all seasons the north -will be found most suitable.</p> - - -<h3 id="NOV">NOVEMBER.</h3> - -<p>The requirements of the apiary are but few during the present -month, provided that feeding has been well attended to in the -last. Should it, however, have been neglected, no time must be -lost in setting about it before cold weather sets in, which may -now reasonably be expected.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span>—By this time hornets and wasps will have finished -their work of destruction and pillage; each hive, therefore, -must now be carefully examined and weighed, and should any be -found having less than 18 or 20 lbs. of honey, supply them immediately -with a sufficient quantity to bring them up to that weight.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Floor-board.</span>—Clean the floor-board of each hive by scraping -It with a knife, and brushing it afterwards with a dry brush, -and see that each hive stands firmly on its pedestal, and is well -defended against wet; and for effecting this (especially during -winter), I have never yet found anything equal to the milk-pan, -heavy and unsightly as it unquestionably is. I have seen covers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span> -of zinc used, but they are too light and frequently blown off -by the wind; and one night's heavy rain at this time of year -will very nearly, if not quite, destroy one of the best stocks. A -gentleman of my acquaintance has had covers of cork made at -a cost of 30<i>s.</i> each, and very elegant things they are; but, after -about fourteen months' trial, they are abandoned because they -will not effectually keep out wet.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Entrances.</span>—The entrance to the hives must now be narrowed -so that only two or three Bees can come out at the same time -for at this season mice are very likely to lodge themselves in -the hives, and they are very hurtful and destructive to the -Bees; for, having once fairly lodged themselves in a hive, its -entire destruction will be effected by them in a few days. Mr. -Huish relates an anecdote of having found a dead mouse in one -of his hives. He says, "In the month of December, on inspecting -my apiary, I perceived a hive to be in an unusual bustle -and the Bees in great agitation. I was convinced that some -accident had occurred in the interior of the hive, and I resolved -to examine it. To my great surprise I found a dead mouse on -the stand, and it was almost covered with propolis (Bee-bread). -I first resolved to remove this nauseous object; but, on more -mature reflection, I was not willing to forego the opportunity of -Experiencing, by actual observation, one of the most profound -acts of foresight and wisdom which can possibly be found in the -works of the animal creation. What power is that which taught -the Bee the necessity of covering the dead mouse with a plaster? -It might have been thought sufficient to kill it, that their property -might be saved, and then leave it to waste away in the -common process of putrefaction. But were this process to be -allowed to take place, the health and safety of the whole hive -would be endangered. To prevent, therefore, this occurrence, -the body of the mouse is, as it were, embalmed in a case of -propolis, and the object rots away without emitting any offensive -odour." I have myself occasionally found a snail fastened to -the floor-board in a similar manner. But a greater enemy to -Bees during the winter months than even the mouse will be -found in that little marauder the blue titmouse (<i>Parus major</i> of -Linnæus), which may be said to stand foremost as their enemy. -Mr. Purchase says, "She will eat ten or twelve Bees at a time, -and by-and-by, be ready for more. When she comes to the -hive and finds none, she knocks with her bill at the door, and -as soon as the Bees come out to inquire the cause, she catcheth, -first one and then another until her belly be full." This I have -observed in an apiary of about twenty hives, in a village nigh to -me, for the last two winters; the entrances of the hives by the -end of the winter having the appearance of being gnawn by -rats, which has all been done by these birds. Shoot and trap -them in the winter, and destroy their nests in breeding time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Removing Supers.</span>—All super as well as nadir hives should -now be removed, reducing the room occupied by each stock as -much as possible.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ventilation.</span>—In hives of wood I have always found it -necessary during the winter months to withdraw one of the -slides at the top of the hive, and place over the opening a feeder -or small glass for the purpose of carrying off the condensed -vapour, which would otherwise run down the sides of the hive, -and cause dampness and mouldiness to the combs, and sometimes -the entire destruction of the stock. Mr. Taylor gives a -drawing of a condenser for this purpose in his "Bee-Keeper's -Manual," page 142, fourth edition, which I have found to be -very useful where a feeding-pan could not be placed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Removing Bees.</span>—Should any of our readers, from what has -already been said, feel disposed to try a northern aspect for -their Bees, I would recommend their not being removed at this -time, except they are brought from a distance, and when it is -immaterial at what time they are removed; but if it be only -from one part of the same garden to another, it will, be it when -it may, be attended with considerable loss; therefore it had -better be done when the cells are filled with brood—perhaps -towards the end of March.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Advantages of a Northern Aspect.</span>—I still continue to -receive very favourable reports from those persons who have -tried a northern aspect for their hives. The results in every -case already represented to me have been satisfactory; but I -am persuaded that the greatest care must be taken to keep the -whole exterior of the hives from wet, where they are not placed -in a Bee-house; and however averse I may hitherto have expressed -myself to the use of Bee-houses, I am now inclined to -think that where a northern aspect is decided upon they may be -necessary. In Devonshire it may not be required; but wherever -hives are placed in this aspect without the protection of a -house, I would particularly recommend that, be the coverings -whatever they may, they be sufficiently large to prevent the -drip from hilling upon the floor-boards of the hives; for this -would engender dampness, and the loss of the stock would, in all -probability, be the consequence.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bee-Houses.</span>—It must be remembered that, wherever they -are adopted, they require the greatest care as to neatness and -cleanliness, for at best they are hiding places for the Bees' -worst enemies.</p> - - -<h3 id="DEC">DECEMBER.</h3> - -<p>Those persons who have been so fortunate in this untoward -season as to obtain a few glasses of honey from their Bees' -must now look well to their stocks, and by judicious feeding,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span> -get them up to 20 lbs. at least, if it has not been already -done. I would very strongly recommend the food being supplied -at the top of the hive; and should the Bees be in a hive -that has not a hole in the top, with a sharp knife make one -forthwith, for the danger as well as the inconvenience of feeding -at the bottom, and more especially at this season, is very great.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Food.</span>—I believe the best food that can be given, next to -honey, which in some years is far too expensive for feeding, is -one pound of loaf sugar, one quarter of a pint of water, and -one quarter of a pound of honey, simmered for a few minutes -over a slow fire till the sugar is melted, and when quite cold,, -given to the Bees, and at the top of the hive if possible.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stocks</span> will require but little attention during this month -beyond cleaning the floor-boards, and seeing that there is -neither damp nor mould in the hives; and if the floor-boards -are observed to be quite dry, it will be a pretty sure indication -that all is right within. Stopping-up, however, must not be -forgotten when snow lies upon the ground, if the Bees are so -placed that the sun shines upon their hives. Shading during -the winter months is practised by many persons, and is a very -good plan; but when we come to have all our Bees placed in -the north, it will be rendered unnecessary. An intelligent cottager -brought me a very ingeniously-contrived little apparatus -for preventing the sun's rays in winter inducing the Bees to -come out, and at the same time preventing the cold winds from -blowing into the hives. It is a piece of three-quarter-inch deal, -3 inches wide, and 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> long, reduced at one end (not in thickness) -so as to fit in the mouth of the hive, and then with a -gouge the under side is hollowed-out for about 2 inches in -length, and five-eighths of an inch in breadth, in a straight line -with the entrance of the hive; another hollow of the same -dimensions is then made, intersecting at right angles the one -already made, so that if the hive -faces the south, the Bees come out -east and west. The under side has -this appearance. Care, however, -must be taken that this little contrivance -is not pushed into the hive -beyond the thickness of the straw; -and it must also be remembered -that it will require to be taken out -occasionally, to brush away the -dead Bees that may accumulate inside, or the passage may -become blocked up, and the health of the stock endangered.</p> - -<div class="figleft" id="pg_66" style="width: 191px;"> - <img src="images/pg_66.png" width="191" height="145" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The population of the hives will now be found to be very -much reduced; but alarm for their safety on that account -need not to be entertained. It has been frequently said to me, -"What becomes of the Bees managed on the depriving systems<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span> -if they are never suffered to swarm nor are destroyed?" To -which my reply has been, That it is well known to those who -are conversant with the care of Bees, that their numbers -decrease greatly in autumn, not only by the destruction of the -drones, but also by the unavoidable deaths of many of the -workers, owing to the thousand accidents they meet with in the -fields, and owing to age. A much less space, therefore, is -required for them in the winter than was necessary in the -summer months. Mr. Purchase, who was a very careful observer, -says, in his Treatise on Bees, published in 1657, "It is -manifest that the Honey-Bees are but yearly creatures; they -live but a year and a quarter at most; for those Bees that are -seen in May, lusty, full, brown, smooth, and well-winged, will, -by the end of July following, begin to wither, becomes less, look -grey, and have their wings tattered and torn, and be all dead -before the end of August."</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ventilation.</span>—It will be advisable, where Bees are in boxes, -to see that they are well ventilated. If in Mr. Taylor's Amateur's -Bar Hive, I would recommend the feeding-pan being allowed to -remain on during the winter—say till the end of March—and -one of the zinc sides of the hive taken out; and if in any other -kind of box, let a bell-glass be placed over the opening at the -top, on the inside of which the vapour of the hive will condense, -and so pass off. "Perhaps," says Mr. Taylor, "there is nothing -more prejudicial than the moisture often engendered in hives at -this time, particularly after frost, and in certain states of the -atmosphere. It accumulates on the top and sides, moulding and -rendering offensive the combs, and producing disease amongst -the Bees. For this reason, hives with flat roofs have sometimes -been objected to, and perhaps, justly, when no provision is -made for ventilation." Gelieu obviated the evil by placing caps -or small hives over the stocks, the moisture ascending evaporated -through the opening. "I have," says Mr. Taylor, "tried -different expedients, and have found nothing better than the -practice of condensing the vapour of the hive as much as possible, -and conveying it away." (See "Taylor's Bee-Keeper's -Manual," page 149, fourth edition, where a figure of a condenser -is given). I would strongly recommend that particular attention -be given to this little matter by those whose Bees are in boxes; -for want of it many excellent stocks are lost, or become so -depopulated as scarcely ever to recover.</p> - -<p>I have never yet found that hives made entirely of straw -require any ventilation whatever; indeed, I consider it better -for them to have none; while those of wood or glass are in -great danger of being destroyed without them, for in very cold -weather the vapour of the hive condenses on the top and sides, -and runs down upon the floor-board in such quantities as to -cause general dampness and mouldiness upon all the combs. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span> -When in this state, if timely assistance be not rendered, ruin -very soon follows.</p> - -<p>Where Bees are in boxes, ventilation is of the next importance -to feeding. I have found the best method to secure a perfect -ventilation is to leave one of the gratings, or holes at the top of -the box, open, from this time till the end of February, and -placing over it a small bell-glass, or feeder; the vapour will then -condense upon the former, and run down outside the box, or -upon the glass of the latter, and be caught in the pan.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Enemies.</span>—Mice and birds must be carefully looked after, for -they are both very busy at this time, and will destroy a stock, -sometimes very quickly, if allowed to pursue their depredations -unmolested.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hives,</span>—This is a good time to get a supply of straw hives in -readiness for the coming season, and to have them well covered -with three coats of paint—stone or straw colour is the best; -white, when the sun shines upon it, is too dazzling, and any -dark colour absorbs too much heat.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Snow.</span>—Whilst snow lies upon the ground, <i>but not an hour -longer</i>, the entrance of the hives should be stopped with perforated -zinc, and not a single Bee allowed to leave them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="pg_68" style="width: 351px;"> - <img src="images/pg_68.png" width="351" height="221" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 119px;"> - <img src="images/bar_ooo.png" width="119" height="19" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<p> -<span class="smcap">Adapting-boards</span>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> -Alighting-boards, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br /> -Apiary, aspect of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in northern aspect, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Barley-sugar</span>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to make, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></span><br /> -Bar-frame, compound, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> -Bar hives, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br /> -Bee dress, <a href="#Page_32">32</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trap, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span><br /> -Bees, natural history of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drones, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ligurian, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">queen, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">workers, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">removing from one hive to another, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">removing, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br /> -Bell-glasses, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to expel Bees, from, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></span><br /> -Boxes, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">putting on, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Comb-bar, improved</span>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a><br /> -Combs, cutting out old, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">melted, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">securing in frames, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></span><br /> -Coverings, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Defence</span>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br /> -Depriving, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br /> -Driving, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a><br /> -Drones, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br /> -Dysentery, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Early breeding</span>, to promote, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br /> -Enemies, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> -Entrances, <a href="#Page_7">7</a> <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Feeding</span>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> -Feeding-pans, <a href="#Page_27">27</a><br /> -Floor-boards, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to clean, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span><br /> -Food, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> -Frames, to secure combs in, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br /> -Fumigation, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Glasses</span>, putting on, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">taking off, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span><br /> -covering for, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br /> -Guide-combs, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Haybands</span>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a><br /> -Hive, stand for, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br /> -Hives, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amateurs', <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bar, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bees forsaking, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fenn's, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neighbour's Improved Cottage, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neighbour's Observatory, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Payne's Improved Cottage, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stewarton, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Taylor's Amateurs', <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tegetmeier's, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Woodbury's, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of comb, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">putting on small, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to dress, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transporting, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></span><br /> -Hiving, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br /> -Honey, time for taking, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">draining from the combs, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">manner of taking, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vinegar, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Knife</span> for cutting out combs, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Ligurians</span>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">multiplying swarms of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to unite, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Mead</span>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a><br /> -Mice, <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> -Moths, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Northern Aspect</span>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Pedestals</span>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br /> -Pollen, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Queenless Stocks</span>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a><br /> -Queen Wasps, to destroy, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Robbers</span>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Shading</span>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br /> -Snow, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> -Sparrows, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br /> -Stands for hives, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> -Stings, remedies for, <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br /> -Stocks, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">purchasing, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to stand the winter, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></span><br /> -Stupifying Bees, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> -Supers, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a><br /> -Swarming, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">symptoms of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></span><br /> -Swarms, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">artificial, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">premature, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">returning, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">second, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">uniting, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Titmouse</span>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Ventilation</span>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Wasps</span>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> -Wasps' nests, to destroy, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br /> -Water, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br /> -Wax, preparation of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Young Bees</span>, <a 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