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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Forest Scenes in Norway and Sweden:
-being Extracts from the Journal of a Fisherman, by Rev. Henry Garrett
-Newland
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Forest Scenes in Norway and Sweden: being Extracts from the
- Journal of a Fisherman
-
-Author: Rev. Henry Garrett Newland
-
-Release Date: February 13, 2022 [eBook #67401]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
- Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
- produced from images generously made available by The
- Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOREST SCENES IN NORWAY AND
-SWEDEN: BEING EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF A FISHERMAN ***
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: BEAR-HUNT.
-
-_Front._]
-
-
-
-
- FOREST SCENES
- IN
- NORWAY AND SWEDEN:
-
- BEING
- Extracts from the Journal of a Fisherman.
-
- BY
- THE REV. HENRY NEWLAND,
- RECTOR AND VICAR OF WESTBOURNE,
- AUTHOR OF “THE ERNE: ITS LEGENDS AND ITS FLY-FISHING,” ETC. ETC.
-
- The Second Edition.
-
- LONDON:
- G. ROUTLEDGE & CO. FARRINGDON STREET;
- NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET.
- 1855.
-
-
-
-
-TO MY MUCH-ESTEEMED FRIEND, THE PUBLIC.
-
-
-MY DEAR PUBLIC,—
-
-I have frequently heard you remark, in that quaint and pithy manner so
-peculiarly your own, that “all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.”
-If you should happen to find the book which I here present to your notice
-to be really of such a character as your friend Jack might have written
-under these distressing circumstances, I am afraid I cannot plead this
-very sensible observation of yours as my excuse; for I must confess,
-which I do with thankfulness, that in my time I have enjoyed quite as
-much play as is good for me, or for any one, in this working-day world of
-ours. On this point, therefore, my book must stand on its own merits.
-
-But, as I am extremely solicitous of your good opinion, and should be
-very sorry to see you err on the opposite extreme, imagining, as indeed
-you might, that mine has been “all play and no work,” I must request you
-to look at the Parson at home as well as the Parson abroad,—in short, to
-read my “Confirmation and First Communion,” as well as my “Forest Life;”
-a proceeding which, if it does not benefit you, my dear Public (and I
-sincerely hope it may), will, at all events,—through the medium of his
-Publisher,—benefit, and that materially,
-
- Your faithful Servant,
-
- THE AUTHOR.
-
-WESTBOURNE VICARAGE, _July 7th, 1854_.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
- INTRODUCTION _Page_ 1
-
- CHAPTER I.—Preparations 8
-
- CHAPTER II.—The Voyage 18
-
- CHAPTER III.—The Shipwash Sand 26
-
- CHAPTER IV.—The Landfall 38
-
- CHAPTER V.—Christiansand 49
-
- CHAPTER VI.—The Torjedahl 61
-
- CHAPTER VII.—The Encampment Mosse Eurd 78
-
- CHAPTER VIII.—Making a Night of it 92
-
- CHAPTER IX.—The Hell Fall 108
-
- CHAPTER X.—Departure from Torjedahl 122
-
- CHAPTER XI.—The Mountain March 141
-
- CHAPTER XII.—The Homestead 158
-
- CHAPTER XIII.—The Church 172
-
- CHAPTER XIV.—Breaking up the Encampment 193
-
- CHAPTER XV.—Eider Duck Hunting 203
-
- CHAPTER XVI.—The Coasting Voyage 220
-
- CHAPTER XVII.—Gotheborg 238
-
- CHAPTER XVIII.—Trollhättan 253
-
- CHAPTER XIX.—Gäddebäck 267
-
- CHAPTER XX.—Wenern 280
-
- CHAPTER XXI.—The Meet 295
-
- CHAPTER XXII.—The Commencement of the Skal 305
-
- CHAPTER XXIII.—The Satterval 318
-
- CHAPTER XXIV.—Making another Night of it 333
-
- CHAPTER XXV.—The Watch Fire 349
-
- CHAPTER XXVI.—Beating out the Skal 367
-
- CHAPTER XXVII.—The Ball 377
-
- CHAPTER XXVIII.—The Wedding 389
-
- CHAPTER XXIX.—Homeward Bound 402
-
-
-
-
-FOREST LIFE: A FISHERMAN’S SKETCHES IN NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION.
-
-
-Sketches in Norway and Sweden! Are they fact or fiction? are they to be
-instructive or simply entertaining? These are questions which the public
-has a right to ask, and which the author means to answer as truly as he
-can. He hopes there will be a little of both. At least, in making this
-selection from his own and his friends’ journals, he has had both these
-objects in his eye, and he trusts he has been able to keep his eye upon
-them both at the same time, and that without any very great amount of
-squinting. The framework which he has adopted is that of a very popular
-description of authors—the historical romancers, and, if he might venture
-to say so, of a certain equally popular historian: that is to say,
-fiction founded upon fact. He has laid down absolute facts, or what he
-believes to be facts, for his groundwork, and has dressed them up to suit
-his fancy.
-
-These Northern Sketches are, in truth, a continuation of a former work,
-“The Erne, its Legends and its Fly-fishing;” as the expedition which
-gave rise to them was in every respect the same as the old Belleek
-fishing-association, with a simple change of scene. They are therefore
-written upon the same plan, which the author has found extremely
-convenient and very suitable to his purpose.
-
-That purpose was not only to preserve the recollections of a most
-enjoyable time, but also to convey as much real information on the
-subjects treated on as he could compass; and with such an object before
-him, absolute fiction would have been useless.
-
-His descriptions, therefore, in that book were real descriptions, his
-anecdotes, real anecdotes—the incidents of the story did actually happen;
-his instructions in the art of fly-fishing and the hydrography of the
-river were the results of his own experience, and the fairy legends
-were his own collections. Unless these things had been true, his book
-would have been merely a book of entertainment,—and he was ambitious of
-something beyond that. Everything of this kind, therefore, was recorded
-accurately; and in the few instances in which the requirements of the
-story compelled the author to transplant his incidents, their real
-localities were always given.
-
-All this was important to the public, or, at least, as important as the
-subject itself; but it was of no consequence to any one, except for the
-gratification of mere curiosity, to be able to identify the precise
-Captain A. who broke the weirs of the Laune, while such information
-would not have raised Captain A.’s character at the Horse-Guards. The
-Liberal member for B. might enjoy the recollection of the row he got up
-at Kildoney, but might not find it convenient to be reminded of it on the
-hustings. Attorneys might look askance at Barrister C., who for a whole
-summer had directed his studies to the practice of Club-law; while Parson
-D., who had passed three months of his life waist-high in the Erne, might
-possibly expect, were he identified, to have cold water thrown upon him
-by his Bishop for the rest of his life.
-
-With all these matters, interesting enough to the characters themselves,
-the public had nothing whatever to do: it was sufficient for them that
-they had their information and their story; and, provided the incidents
-of that story happened to some one, it signified little to them, which,
-of all the letters of the alphabet, composed his name. The public should
-feel grateful to any fisherman who has truly revealed the silks and
-feathers of his favourite fly; it is what very few fishermen will do: let
-them be satisfied with that: they shall never know—they have no right to
-know—which of all the “Squires” that haunted the Erne it was who landed
-the “Schoolmaster” on the “Bank of Ireland.”
-
-In the present sketches the author has not so much reason to conceal the
-names of his characters; he can hurt no one. He has no rows or “ructions”
-to record; more’s the pity, for there is nothing so interesting to
-read about. Still, there are advantages in carrying out the same plan:
-first, it makes the continuation obvious—some of the Erne characters
-are again introduced: and this is not a fiction; for when rail-roads
-began to multiply, and sporting cockneys began to infest the innocent
-Erne, frightening its salmon and exacerbating its proprietors, that
-pleasant coterie of fishermen, who, in earlier and better times, were
-wont to concoct their punch and tell their stories at Mother Johnstone’s
-fire-side, and hang their great two-handed rods upon her hospitable
-brackets, actually did betake themselves to the exile of foreign lands.
-
-But, in the second place, it conveys the same information in a more
-entertaining manner: the author is able to piece his characters; making
-them, like _Mrs. Malaprop’s_ Cerberus, “three gentlemen at once,” by
-combining into one the incidents that happened to many. The author has
-thus availed himself of other journals and other note-books besides his
-own, and has been able to appropriate their contents, and to distribute
-whatever was characteristic of the country, into a series of connected
-sketches, instead of perpetually changing his locality and introducing
-new characters. He by no means intends to identify himself with his
-fictitious Parson, nor will he even undertake to say, that he was himself
-in all instances personally present whenever the Parson comes upon the
-scene: he will answer for the truth of nothing beyond the detached
-incidents and descriptions.
-
-Neither can these Sketches be used as an itinerary. Now and then,
-though not often, names of places have been even suppressed or altered,
-and incidents transplanted. They will, indeed, give glimpses—slight,
-but true as far as they go—of northern scenery, costume, travelling
-peculiarities, and, above all, sport. They will contain practical hints
-and available directions, but it is only in a general way. They are
-not at all intended as a guide-book, nor will they at all supersede the
-indispensable Murray.
-
-The traveller, following upon the author’s footsteps, will find himself
-lost at two points of the narrative—the village of Soberud, and the
-locality of the Skal. In the former of these the reason is evident
-enough—the author wishes to convey an idea of what sort of men the
-Norwegian clergy are, not to draw the attention of subsequent travellers
-to any individual clergyman. In the case of the skal there is another
-reason. Although Mr. Lloyd, the author of “Northern Wild Sports,” being
-a great hunter, has always contrived to get a shot at the bear, it is,
-nevertheless, true, that an ordinary man sees about as much of a skal as
-a regimental officer does of a battle—that is to say, he sees about a
-dozen men on each side of him: and, it may well happen, that the share
-of any given individual in the most successful of skals, will amount
-to hearing a great deal of firing, and, at the end of three or four
-days’ hard work, seeing five or six carcasses paraded at the nearest
-village. In order, therefore, to give his readers a graphic sketch of a
-skal, without violently outraging probability, it was necessary for the
-author to _make his ground_, that is to say, to imagine ground of such a
-description that it was possible for his characters to see what was going
-on. It is not altogether fictitious either, for the traveller will find a
-good deal of it in the Toftdahl Valley, though this was never, so far as
-the author knows, the scene of a summer skal.
-
-Similarly, also, though there is no such village as Soberud, that
-being the name of a district near Larvig in which Sir Hyde Parker’s
-fishing-lodge is situated and where the author caught a good many
-salmon and trout, yet the traveller will be able to patch together
-the fictitious country from real and actual elements. The church is
-Hitterdahl—but as there is no lake at Hitterdahl, one has been borrowed
-for it from the country between Larvig and Frederiksvärn—the “Lake of the
-Woods” is, really, about four miles north-east of the village of Boen;
-the little lake where the diver was shot, together with the forest about
-it, about as far to the west of the same place; and the dark sombre pine
-wood is, really, situated in the valley of the Nid. This last has been
-slightly altered to suit the locality, for it is next to impossible to
-lose oneself in the Nid forest, the river itself being sufficient guide;
-but the rest is all drawn as accurately as the author’s recollections,
-aided by his journals, will enable him to depict it. With respect to
-the characters, Tom, Torkel, and Jacob were attendants on the author
-and his companions, and, though “a little rose upon,” to use a nautical
-expression, are drawn from actual life, and in their own proper names.
-The Captain and Parson, as has been said before, are not to be considered
-actual characters; that is to say, characters responsible as having
-done and said all that they are represented to have done and said, but
-merely as pegs upon which to hang the author’s personal experiences, or
-pieces of information which he may have received. The same may be said
-of Birger. It was necessary to associate with the party an intelligent
-Swede, and Lieut. Birger was chosen to fill that office. Bjornstjerna
-is wholly fictitious. Hjelmar is a real character; and his adventure
-in the Najaden frigate was related by him exactly as they are conveyed
-to the reader, the steamer following out among the islands the precise
-track of the chase. The author, however, will not undertake to say that
-the actual name of Hjelmar will be found on the watch and quarter bills
-of the frigate, though Hulm was actually her captain, and was actually
-buried near Lyngör, where his monument may be seen to this day. Moodie is
-a real character, though his name, also, is fictitious; or, rather, it
-is derived from a nick-name that the author understands he has acquired
-either by his courage or his foolhardiness: the appellation Modige,
-which is pronounced very like our English name, Moodie, is translatable
-either way. He does not, however, live at Gäddebäck, which is the name
-of a house formerly occupied by the celebrated Mr. Lloyd, the author
-of “Wild Sports of the North,” and “Scandinavian Adventures,” to whose
-kindness the author is indebted for his being able to describe, from
-experience, the fishing of the Gotha, which is drawn as accurately as
-the author’s recollection served him. The traveller need not, however,
-fear the quicksand which engulphed poor Jacob; that scene, and a very
-ridiculous one it was, occurred on the Torjedahl just below Oxea. The
-fisherman is cautioned not to be guided in his choice of a river by the
-author’s success on the Torjedahl. It is too clear, too much overhung,
-and too steadily and regularly rapid to be a first-rate river under any
-circumstances. There are few shallows in it, for there are no tributaries
-below the Falls of Wigeland, and no salmon can get above them; therefore,
-its breeding-ground is very limited indeed; probably the flats of Strei,
-Oxea, and Mosse Eurd, form the whole of it. The author’s success must be
-attributed to the fact of his fly having been the first of his kind that
-ever floated on those transparent waters.
-
-The songs which are put into the mouths of the different characters,
-are really Norwegian or Swedish, and are given as specimens. They are
-translations by Hewitt, Forester, Knightley, and others. Scandinavia has
-always been remarkable for its lyrical poetry from the earliest times;
-and the _Gammle Norgé_ of Bjerregaard, which is given in chapter viii.,
-would seem to show that the cup of poetic inspiration which Odin stole
-from the keeping of Gunlauth, and stored up in Asgard, is not yet empty.
-By far the best of the modern poets of the North is Grundtvig, but his
-subjects are, for the most part, of a nature too solemn for a work so
-light as this; a short specimen from his hymns is given in chapter xviii.
-The Evening Hymn, in chapter xxiii., though in common use in Norway, is
-not Norwegian; it belongs to the ancient church, and is said to be as old
-as the days of Ambrose and Augustine.
-
-The legends are collected from all manner of sources: many of them
-from Tom and Torkel, some from the Eddas and Sagas, some from Malet
-and Knightley; they are all, however, legitimate Scandinavian legends,
-believed implicitly by some one or other.
-
-One word about the voyage out. It signifies little to the public when and
-where those incidents really happened—whether in the North Sea, or in the
-Bay of Biscay, or in the Mediterranean; but it signifies to them a great
-deal, to know that these things actually did happen once, and may happen
-again at any time.
-
-The main incidents adapted to that fictitious voyage are strictly and
-literally true. A large steamer was upon one occasion in the precise
-situation ascribed to the _Walrus_,—and—in the absence of its skipper,
-who for the time had mysteriously disappeared—was saved by the promptness
-of one of the passengers, precisely as is described in the narrative.
-And it is also true that the same vessel, after a run of not more than
-five hundred miles, did find herself fifty miles out of her course.
-The compasses, no doubt, being in fault, as they always are on such
-occasions—poor things!
-
-These are important matters for the public to be made acquainted with;
-for the public do very frequently go down to the sea in steamers, and
-therefore any individual reader may at any time find himself in the very
-same situation.
-
-The author has enlarged upon this, in the faint hope of drawing attention
-to these matters. He would suggest that some sort of superintendence
-would not be altogether superfluous, and that it is not entirely right
-that the lives of two or three hundred men on the deep sea should
-be entrusted to a skipper not competent to navigate a river, nor be
-committed to a vessel so parsimoniously found as to be unable to
-encounter casualties which might happen any day in a voyage to Ramsgate.
-
-On a subject so important as this, the author thinks it his duty to state
-that these incidents, extraordinary as they may appear, are in no way
-fictitious; that they did happen under his own eye; and that the mate,
-the only real sailor on board, did request of him, after the escape, a
-certificate that he, at least, had done his duty. If that man should
-be still alive, he possesses a most unique document, a certificate of
-seamanship, signed by a clergyman of the United Church of England and
-Ireland.
-
-The skipper’s name the author does not think it necessary to record. He
-is not likely to be employed again; for he is one of those who have since
-immortalised themselves in the public prints, by losing his vessel—a
-circumstance which, it will readily be believed, did not excite any very
-great feelings of surprise in the mind of the author.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I.
-
-PREPARATIONS.
-
- “In every corner
- Carefully look thou
- Ere forth thou goest.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-There is no saying more true than that “he who would make a tour abroad,
-must first make the tour of London.” There are miscellaneous articles
-of appropriate clothing to be got together; there are bags, knapsacks,
-portmanteaus, to be fitted. Above all, there are passports to be
-procured; than which no plague more vexatious, more annoying, or more
-utterly useless for any practicable or comprehensible purpose, has been
-devised by modern ingenuity.
-
-But if this is a necessary preliminary on ordinary occasions, much more
-is it necessary when the contemplated expedition has for its object
-sporting, and the northern wildernesses for its contemplated locality. In
-addition to the cares of ordinary travel, there are now tents, blankets,
-cloaks, guns, rifles, to be thought of; rods, reels, gaffs, lines, to
-be overhauled and repaired; material-books to be replenished, and the
-commissariat department to be adequately looked to. Deep and anxious, yet
-not without their pleasures, are the responsibilities which rest on the
-shoulders of him who undertakes the conduct of such an expedition as this.
-
-Such were the thoughts that crossed the mind of the Parson, as—business
-in his musing eye, care on his frowning brow, and determination in his
-compressed lip—he stood under the archway of the Golden Cross; his hands
-mechanically feeling for the pockets of his fishing-jacket, which had
-been exchanged for a clerical frock-coat more befitting the locality,
-and his mouth pursing itself up for his habitual whistle, which, had he
-indulged in it where he then stood, might have been considered neither
-appropriate nor decorous.
-
-“Don’t you think this list rather a long one,” said the Captain, who
-had now joined him from the interior of the hotel, holding in his hand
-a pretty closely-written sheet of foolscap. “These are all very good
-things, and very useful things no doubt, but how are we to stow them, and
-how are we to carry them? Yours is anything but light marching order.”
-
-“Why should it be?”
-
-“My principle is, that no traveller can be too lightly equipped.”
-
-“And a very good principle, too,” said the Parson. “Heavy and useless
-incumbrances are the invariable attributes of travelling Englishmen. You
-may know them by their endless train of household goods, as you would
-know a snail by its shell.”
-
-“I believe,” said the Captain, “that foreign rail-roads are regulated
-precisely so as to tax us English tourists. Travel on whatever line you
-please in England, except that grasping Brighton and South Coast, and you
-may take just exactly what luggage you like; while abroad, the fare is
-so low and the charge for luggage so high, that an Englishman generally
-pays double; while the Frenchman, whose three spare collars and bottle
-of hair-oil are in his pocket; and the German, whose great tobacco-bag
-and little reticule of necessaries are so constructed as to fit the
-allowance, are permitted to go free.”
-
-“Upon my word, I do not object to the tax; it is a tax upon folly.
-What can be so absurd as such a miscellaneous collection as Englishmen
-generally carry with them? What can a traveller want beyond a dry suit of
-clothes and half-a-dozen shirts and stockings?”
-
-“There is a slight incongruity between your words and your actions,” said
-the Captain, holding up the list.
-
-“Tush! put that paper into your pocket, and tell me what we are going to
-do. When I went on my reconnoitring expedition to Norway last year, my
-fourteen-foot rod, my fly-book, and a change of clothes constituted all
-the cares of my life; and I contend, as you do, that no traveller whose
-object is information has any business with more. But we are going now
-more in the character of settlers: we are not going to explore, but to
-enjoy that which has been explored for us. Why should we not, therefore,
-take whatever may make life enjoyable?”
-
-“Only for fear we may be called upon to choose between leaving them
-behind or leaving our purpose unaccomplished,” said the Captain.
-
-“Do you think I have calculated my ambulances so badly? But come along.
-We must consult Fortnum and Mason first. I can explain all that on our
-road.
-
-“Considering how wild and uninhabited the greater part of the country
-is, both in Norway and Sweden,” the Parson resumed, as they crossed the
-pavement under Nelson’s pillar, “it is astonishing how easily you may
-travel, and how little impediment are your _impedimenta_. The posting
-regulations are admirable. On every road there are posting stations
-at convenient distances, and, by writing to these, the traveller may
-command, at stated prices, every horse and cart in the district.”
-
-“And at moderate prices?” said the Captain, whose means were not so
-abundant as to make him indifferent to expense.
-
-“No, not at moderate prices; for I do not call a penny an English mile a
-moderate price, and this is what you pay in Sweden; and in Norway it is
-not more than three-halfpence, except in favoured spots in the vicinity
-of towns, where they are permitted to charge three-fold. My plans,
-therefore, are these. We are not going to travel, but to visit certain
-fishing stations, most of which are at no great distance from the coast;
-let us take, therefore, everything that will make us comfortable at these
-different settlements. As long as we coast, we have always traders of
-some sort or other, and generally as nice and comfortable little steamers
-as you can desire. When our road lies along the fjords or lakes, boats
-are to be had from the post stations on the same terms as you get the
-carts, a rower reckoning the same as a horse; and when we want to take
-to the land, we have but to order as many carts as will hold our traps.”
-
-“And how do we travel ourselves?” said the Captain.
-
-“There is no carriage in the world so pleasant for fine weather as the
-cariole; and I propose that we each buy one. If we have to get them new,
-they do not cost above thirty specie-dalers—that is to say, about seven
-or eight pounds—with all their harness and fittings, in the very first
-style; and you may always sell them again at the end of your journey.
-That is the way the natives manage, and they are terrible gadabouts.
-You always find some jobber or other to take it off your hands. But the
-chances are that we shall meet with a choice of second-hand carioles to
-begin with. I gave twenty specie-dalers for mine last year, and sold it
-for fifteen. Drammen is the place for these things, up in Christiania
-fjord: it is the Long Acre of Norway.”
-
-“What sort of things are these carioles?—Gigs, I suppose, to carry two.”
-
-“Not they—barely one: and no great room for baggage either. A
-Scandinavian is of your way of thinking, and does not trouble himself
-with spare shirts. One horse draws one man, and that is all. If your gig
-carries two, you are charged a horse and a half for it. In Sweden they
-have a sort of light spring waggon, drawn by three horses, which will
-take our followers admirably, with as much luggage as we like to stow;
-and by having the collars of the harness made open at the top, they will
-do for all the variety of horses we may meet with on our road. This is
-better than the Norwegian mode of engaging the farm carts; for in this,
-so much time is lost at every stage in restowing luggage, that it becomes
-a serious hindrance. However, in Norway we must do as the Norwegians do.
-The light waggon would make a very unpleasant conveyance down some of
-their mountain roads.”
-
-“And how do you manage crossing the fjords and lakes?”
-
-“Easily enough. Every ferry-boat will take a cariole; and as for
-coasting, a cariole ranks as a deck passenger—that is to say, about ten
-skillings for a sea mile, you paying for your own passage in the cabin
-about twenty.”
-
-“You travellers get so confoundedly technical. What the deuce do you mean
-by a sea mile and a skilling? And how am I to compare two things neither
-of which I know anything about?”
-
-“A regular traveller’s fault,” said the Parson. “There is not a book
-written that does not abound with these absurdities. Well, a skilling is
-a halfpenny in our money, and a sea mile is four of our miles, and a land
-mile eight, nearly.”
-
-“Pretty liberal in their measures of length,” said the Captain.
-
-“Why, they have plenty of it, and to spare; as you will find when
-you come to travel from one place to another. But their money is not
-plentiful, and they dole it out in very small denominations indeed.”
-
-“But here we are at Fortnum and Mason’s; and now for the stores.”
-
-“I observe, you always go to the most expensive places,” said the Captain.
-
-“That is because I cannot afford to go to the cheaper ones,” said the
-Parson. “On such an expedition as this, you should never take inferior
-stores. One hamper turning out bad when unpacked at the end of a thousand
-miles or so of carriage, will make more than the difference between the
-cheapest and the most expensive shop in London. But, to show you that I
-do study economy, I will resist the temptation of these preserved meats;
-and, let me tell you, it is a temptation, for up the country you will
-get nothing but what you catch, gather, or shoot. This, however, is a
-necessary,” pointing to some skins of portable soup; “there is not a
-handier thing for a traveller; it goes in the smallest compass of any
-sort of provisions; it is always useful on a pinch, and some chips of
-it carried in the waistcoat pocket on a pedestrian expedition, make a
-dinner, not exactly luxurious, but quite sufficient to do work upon.
-This we must lay in a good store of; in fact, if we have this, we need
-not be very anxious about anything else. Other things are luxuries:
-this is a necessary of life. Tea we must take: there is nothing more
-refreshing after a hard day’s work, and you cannot get it anywhere in the
-country. At least, what you do meet with is altogether _maris expers_,
-being a villanous composition of dried strawberry leaves and other home
-productions. Oil, too—we must take plenty of that; we shall want it for
-the frying-pan.”
-
-“Have they no butter, then?” said the Captain.
-
-“Yes, they have, and in great plenty too; of all varieties of quality,
-from very bad, down to indescribably beastly. They call it smör,
-pronouncing the dotted _o_ like the French _eu_; and I can assure you
-their very best butter tastes just as the word sounds.”
-
-“Well, then, I vote for some of these sardines, to take off the taste.”
-
-“With all my heart,” said the Parson; “they flavour anything, when they
-are not made of salted bleak, as they generally are—so does cayenne
-pepper. We may as well have some cocoa paste, and a Bologna sausage or
-two may prove a useful luxury.”
-
-“What do you say to a cask of biscuits?” said the Captain. “What sort of
-bread have they?”
-
-“Do you recollect that old story told of Charles the Twelfth, when he
-said of the bread brought to him, that it was not good, but that it might
-be eaten? No one can tell the heroism of that speech who has not eaten
-the Swedish black bread, which is generally the only representative of
-the staff of life procurable. It is gritty, it is heavy, it is puddingy;
-if you throw it against a wall it will stick there—and as for sourness,
-O, ye gods! they purposely keep the leaven till it is uneatably sour, and
-then fancy it becomes wholesome.”
-
-“Well, I suppose it does,” said the Captain. “The Squire used to say,
-that everything that was good, is unwholesome or wrong; and I suppose the
-converse is true. But why not take the biscuits?”
-
-“Because we can get that which will answer our purpose perfectly when
-we arrive at the country, and that without the carriage, and at a much
-cheaper rate. There is not a seaport town in all the coast where you may
-not get what they call Kahyt Scorpor, a sort of coarse imitation of what
-nurses in England feed babies upon, under the name of tops and bottoms.
-They are made of rye, and are as black as my hat; but they are very good
-eating, keep for ever, and are cheap enough in all conscience, being from
-four to six skillings to the pound, that is to say, threepence. In Norway
-they call them Rö Kovringer.”
-
-“We will take some rice, which very often comes in well by way of
-vegetables in a kettle of grouse soup; and a good quantity of chocolate,
-which packs easily, and furnishes a breakfast on the shortest possible
-notice. And this, I think, will do very well for the commissariat
-department of our expedition.”
-
-“And now for arms and ammunition,” said the Captain.
-
-“Everything we are likely to want in that department, we must take with
-us—guns, of course. Shot certainly may be got at Christiansand, and the
-other large towns; up the country, though, you will get neither that nor
-anything else: but powder can be got nowhere, at least, powder that does
-not give you an infinity of trouble in cleaning your gun, on account of
-the quantity of deposit it leaves. That little magazine of yours, with
-its block-tin canisters and brass screw-stoppers, will hold enough for us
-two, unless we meet with very good sport indeed, and in that case we must
-put up with the manufacture of the country.”
-
-“And for guns?” said the Captain. “I shall certainly take that little
-pea-rifle I brought from Canada. I want to bring down a bear.”
-
-“We shall be more likely to get a crack at a seal, where we are going,”
-said the Parson. “Bears are not so plentiful in Norway as is generally
-supposed. People imagine that they run about in flocks like sheep;
-however, it is possible that there may be a bear-hunt while we are there.
-As for rifles, I own I am partial to our own English manufacture. Those
-little pea affairs are sensible things enough in their own country, where
-one wanders for weeks on end through interminable forests and desolate
-prairies on foot, and where a pound of lead more or less in your knapsack
-is a matter of consequence: but where we have means of transport, I see
-no great sense in them. A pea, no doubt, will kill, if it hits in the
-right place; but, like the old Duke, I have myself rather a partiality
-for the weighty bullet. However, each man to his fancy. The great merit
-of every gun, rifle, or pistol, lies behind the stock,—a truth that
-dandy sportsmen are apt to forget; a pea sent straight is better than a
-two-ounce ball beside the mark.”
-
-“Well,” said the Captain, laughing, “I think I can hold my little Yankee
-pretty straight; but we shall want shot-guns more than rifles. I may as
-well take that case I had from Westley Richards, if you do not think it
-too heavy.”
-
-“Not at all; you can always leave the case behind, and take one gun in a
-waterproof cover when we go on light-armed expeditions. This will furnish
-us with a spare gun in case of accidents. I shall take my own old one,
-and a duck gun—which last will be common property, and I think with this
-we shall be pretty sufficiently armed. Pointers and setters are of no
-great use, unless it is a steady old stager, who will retrieve; for you
-must recollect there is no heath, and very little field shooting. The
-character of the country is cover, not very thick anywhere, and in many
-places interspersed with glades and openings. We shall do better with
-beaters: a water-dog, however, is indispensable. Lakes and rivers abound,
-and so do ducks, teal, and snipes.”
-
-“Have you thought about tents?” said the Captain.
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “I am not sure that tents are indispensable,
-and they certainly are not a little cumbersome. While we are fishing we
-can do very well without them: by the water-side we can never be without
-a cottage of some sort to put our heads under if it should come on bad
-weather, for every house in the whole country stands on the banks of
-some lake or river. I must say, though, when you get up into the fjeld
-after the grouse and the ducks, or, it may be, bigger game, it is another
-affair altogether. You may then go twenty or thirty miles on end without
-seeing a human habitation, unless you are lucky enough to meet with a
-säter, and you know what a highland bothy is, for dirt and vermin. But,
-even in the fjeld, I do not know that we should want tents; you can have
-no idea of the beauty of a northern summer’s night, and the very little
-need one has of any cover whatever. I remember, last year, standing
-on one of their barrows, smoking my pipe at the foot of an old stone
-cross, coeval, probably, with St. Olaf, and shadowing the tomb of some
-of his followers that Hakon the Jarl thinned off so savagely. It was
-deep midnight, and there was not a chill in the air, or dew enough on
-the whole headland to fill the cup of a Lys Alf. The full round moon was
-shining down upon me from the south, while a strong glowing twilight was
-still lighting up the whole northern sky, where the sun was but just hid
-under the horizon. The whole scene was as light as day, with the deep
-solemn stillness of midnight all the while. I could distinctly make out
-the distant fishing-boats; I could almost distinguish what the men were
-doing in them, through the bright and transparent atmosphere; but at the
-same time all was so still that I could hear the whistle of the wings,
-as flight after flight of wild-fowl shot over me in their course to
-seaward, though they were so high in the air that I could not distinguish
-the individual birds, only the faint outline of the wedge-like figure in
-which they were flying. I remember, that night, thinking how perfectly
-unnecessary a tent was, and determining not to bring one; and, that night
-at all events, I acted up to my conviction; for, when my pipe was out, I
-slept at the foot of the old cross till the sun warned me that the salmon
-were stirring.”
-
-“All very pleasant, no doubt,” said the Captain; “very enjoyable indeed:
-but does it never rain at night in this favoured land of yours?”
-
-“Upon my word, it does not very often,” said the Parson; “at least, not
-in the summer-time. Besides, you cannot conceive how well the men tent
-themselves with pine-branches.”
-
-“I do not quite like the idea,” said the Captain. “It is all very well to
-sleep out when anything is to be got by it; but, when there is nothing to
-be got by it but the rheumatism, to tell you the honest truth—unlucky, as
-the old women say it is—I rather prefer contemplating the moon through
-glass.”
-
-“Well, I will tell you what we can do,” said the Parson, “and that will
-be a compromise. We can get some canvas made up into two lug sails.
-These will help us uncommonly in our passage over lakes and fjords, for
-their boats are seldom well provided in that respect; and when we get to
-our destination, lug sails—being square, or, to speak more accurately,
-parallelogrammatical—will make us very capital gipsy tents, with two
-pairs of cross-sticks and a ridge-pole, which we shall always be able
-to cut from the forest. I think we may indulge ourselves so far. As for
-waterproof jackets, trousers, boots, and so forth, I need not tell you
-about that: you have been out before, and know the value of these when
-you want to fish through a rainy day. We shall not have so dripping a
-climate here as we had in Ireland, certainly, but we shall have one use
-for our waterproof clothing which we had not there, and that is, when we
-bivouac, vulcanised India-rubber is as good a defence against the dew and
-the ground-damp as it is against the rain. A case of knife, fork, and
-spoon apiece is absolutely necessary, for they do not grow in the fjeld.
-A light axe or two, and a couple of hand-bills, a hammer and nails,
-which are just as likely to be wanted to repair our land-carriages as
-our boats. If you are at all particular in shaving—which, by-the-by, is
-not at all necessary—you may as well take a portable looking-glass. You
-will not find it so easy to shave in the reflection of a clear pool—a
-strait to which I was reduced when I was there last year. And now, I
-think, we have everything—that is to say, if you have taken care of the
-fishing-tackle, as you engaged to do.”
-
-“I have not taken care of your material-book.”
-
-“No,” said the Parson; “but I have taken very good care of that myself.
-Fly-making may be a resource to fall back upon, if we meet with rainy
-weather, and my book is well replenished.”
-
-“Everything else,—rods, books, reels, gaffs, and so forth,—I have packed
-in the old black box which we had with us at Belleek, with spare line,
-and water-cord, and armed wire, and eel hooks, and, in fact, everything
-that we can possibly want; and a pretty heavy package it makes, I can
-assure you.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “we may go to sleep now with a clear conscience.
-But so much depends upon a good start, that a little extra trouble, on
-the first day, will be found to save, in the end, a multiplicity of
-inconveniences.”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II.
-
-THE VOYAGE.
-
- “Hurrah! hurrah! up she’s rising,—
- Stamp and go, boys! up she’s rising,—
- Round with a will! and up she’s rising,
- Early in the morning.
-
- What shall us do with a lubberly sailor?—
- What shall us do with a lubberly sailor?—
- Put him in the long-boat and make him bale her,
- Early in the morning.
-
- Hurrah! hurrah! up she’s rising.”—
- &c. &c. _ad infinitum_.
-
- _Anchor Song._
-
-
-Clear and joyous as ever a summer’s day came out of the heavens, was the
-12th of June, 18—, when the good ship _Walrus_, with her steam up, her
-boats secured, and everything ready for sea, lay lazily at single anchor
-off Blackwall-stairs. The weather was as still and calm as weather might
-be. The mid-day sun, brilliant and healthful, imparted life and animation
-even to the black and unctuous waters, that all that morning had, in
-the full strength of the spring tide, been rushing past her sides. The
-breeze, light and fitful, just stirred the air, but was altogether
-powerless on the glazy surface of the stream, which sent back, as from a
-polished and unbroken mirror, the exact double of every mast, yard, and
-line of cordage, that reposed above it. The ships lay calm and still. The
-outward-bound had tided down with the first of the ebb, and were already
-out of sight, and the few sails that still hung festooned in their bunt
-and clew-lines, lay as motionless as the yards that held them. Like light
-and airy dragon-flies, just flitting on the surface, and apparently
-without touching it, the river steamers were darting from wharf to wharf;
-while ever and anon a great heavy sea-going vessel would grind her
-resistless way, defying wind and tide, and dashing the black wave against
-the oily-looking banks.
-
-Steamer after steamer passed, each steadily bent on her respective
-mission; and the day wore on—yet there lay the _Walrus_, though her
-sea-signalling blue Peter had hung from her fore-truck ever since
-day-light, and the struggling and impatient steam would continually burst
-in startling blasts from her safety-valves. The tide was slackening
-fast; the chain cable, that all that forenoon had stretched out taut and
-tense from her bows, like a bar of iron, now hung up and down from her
-hawsehole, while the straws and shavings and floating refuse of the great
-capital began to cling round her sides.
-
-“It is a great honour, no doubt, to carry an ambassador, with Heaven
-knows how many stars of every degree of Russian magnitude in his train,”
-said the Parson, who, seated on the taffrail, with his legs dangling
-over the water, had been watching the turning tide, and grumbling, as
-ship after ship in the lower reaches began to swing at her anchors,
-while three or four of the more energetic craft were already setting
-their almost useless sails, and yo-ho-ing at their anchors, preparatory
-to tiding up; “it is a very great honour, and I hope we are all duly
-sensible of it; but, like most great honours, it is a very particular
-nuisance. These Russian representatives of an autocrat majesty must fancy
-they can rule the waves, when all the world knows it is only Britannia
-that can do that. They have let the whole of this lovely tide pass
-by—(the Parson cast his eyes on the greasy water)—and fancy, I suppose,
-that daddy Neptune is bound to supply them with a new one whenever they
-please to be ready for it.”
-
-“Why, Mate!” said the Captain, as a smart sailor-like looking fellow
-fidgeted across the quarter-deck, with an irregular step and an anxious
-countenance; “is this what you call sailing at ten a.m. precisely? Most
-of us would have liked another forenoon on shore, but your skipper was so
-confounded peremptory; and this is what comes of it.”
-
-“What is one to do, sir?” said the Mate, who seemed fully to participate
-in the Captain’s grievance. “These Russians have taken up all the private
-cabins for their own particular use, and occupy half the berths in the
-main and fore-cabins besides—we cannot help waiting for them. They have
-pretty well chartered the ship themselves—what can we do? But,” continued
-he, after a pause, during which he had been looking over the side, as the
-steamer now began evidently to swing in her turn, “I wish we had gone
-down with the morning’s tide.”
-
-“We should have been at the mouth of the river by this time,” said the
-Captain, “if we had started when we ought.”
-
-“Yes,” said the Mate, “and we should now be crossing the dangerous
-shoals, with fair daylight and a rising tide before us.”
-
-“Why, surely you are not afraid,” said the Parson; “that track is as well
-beaten as the turnpike road.”
-
-The Mate shrugged his shoulders, and stepped forward, giving some
-unnecessary orders in a tone unnecessarily sharp and angry.
-
-“Well, Birger, what news? Do you see anything of them?”
-
-The individual addressed was a smart, active, little man, with a quick
-grey eye, and a lively, pleasant, good-humoured countenance, who was
-coming aft from the bridge of the steamer, on which he had been seated
-all the forenoon, sketching, right and left of him groups of shipping on
-the water and groups of idlers on the deck.
-
-“Anything of whom?” said he. “Oh! the Russians. No, I don’t know. I
-suppose they will come some time or other; it does not signify—it is
-all in the day’s work. Look here,”—and he opened his portfolio, and
-displayed, in wild confusion all over his paper, the domes of Woolwich,
-the houses of Blackwall, the forests of masts and yards in the Pool,
-two or three picturesque groups of vessels, a foreign steamer or two,
-landing her weary and travel-soiled passengers at the Custom-house—and,
-over leaf, and in the background as it were, slight exaggerations of the
-ungainly attitudes in which his two friends were then sprawling. “If
-you had found something as pleasant as this grumbling to fill up your
-time with, you would not be wasting your eyes and spoiling your temper in
-looking for the Russians. They are going back to their own country, poor
-devils! no wonder they are slow about it. Did you ever see a boy going to
-school?”
-
-“Birger is not over-fond of the Russians,” said the Captain.
-
-“Few Swedes are,” said Birger; “remember Finland and Pomerania.”
-
-“Besides, it is not over-pleasant to have a great White Bear sitting
-perpetually at one’s gate, always ready to snap up any of one’s little
-belongings that may come in its way. The Russian fleet is getting
-formidable, and Revel and Kronstadt are not very far from the mouth of
-the Mälar.”
-
-“I don’t know anything about that,” said Birger, gallantly; “we are the
-sons of the men who, under Gustaf, taught that fleet a lesson.”
-
-“You are a gallant set of fellows,” said the Parson; “and Sweden would
-be a precious hard nut to crack. But your long-armed friends over the
-water know the value of a ring fence, and would dearly like a seaboard.
-Only fancy that overpowering country, which is now kept in order by
-the rest of Europe, only because, just at present, it lies at the back
-of creation, and cannot get out of the Baltic, Black, and White Seas,
-to do harm to any one,—only fancy that pleasant land, with its present
-unlimited resources, and Gothenborg for its Portsmouth, and Christiania,
-and Frederiksvärn and Christiansand for its outports—a pleasant vision,
-is it not, Mr. Guardsman? Don’t you think it probable that something of
-this sort has soothed the slumbers of the White Bear we were speaking of,
-before this?”
-
-“Did you ever hear of Charles the Twelfth? He taught that White Bear to
-dance.”
-
-“He taught that White Bear to fight,” said the Captain, “and an apt
-scholar he found him. There was more lost at Pultava than Charles’s
-gallant army.”
-
-“There are men in Sweden yet,” said Birger, slightly paraphrasing the
-legend of “Holger.”
-
-“There are,” said the Parson; “and if you could only agree among
-yourselves, you might have hopes of muzzling the White Bear yet. Another
-union of Calmar?”
-
-“O, hang the union of Calmar; there is no more honesty in a Dane or
-a Norseman than there is in a Russ. We are not going to have another
-Bloodbath at Stockholm. My mother is a Lejonhöved,[1] and I am not likely
-to forget that day.”
-
-“I should have thought you more nearly connected with the Svinhöved
-family,” said the Parson; “but depend upon it, unless you men of the
-north can make up your quarrels, the White Bear will chop you up in
-detail, and us after you.”
-
-Birger, who, in some incomprehensible way, traced his descent from the
-founder of Stockholm, the great and terrible Earl Birger, was a smart
-young subaltern in the Royal Guards, and though his present dress—a
-modest and unpretending blouse—was anything but military, his well-set-up
-figure, firm step, and jaunty little forage cap stuck on one side of his
-head, sufficiently revealed his profession. From his earliest youth he
-had discovered a decided talent for drawing, and in accordance with a
-most praiseworthy custom in the Swedish service, he had been travelling
-for the last twelvemonth at the expense of the Government, and was now
-returning to the “Kongs Ofver Commandant’s Expedition,” with a portfolio
-filled with valuable sketches, and a mind no less well stored with
-military knowledge, which he had collected from every nation in Europe.
-The Captain had fallen in with him at the Swedish ambassador’s, and,
-being himself something of an artist, had struck up on the spot a sort of
-professional friendship with him. The pleasant little subaltern was thus,
-from that time forward, enrolled among their party; and though their
-acquaintance was not yet of twenty-four hours’ standing, was at that
-moment talking and chatting with all the familiarity of old and tried
-friendship.
-
-“Here come those precious rascals at last,” said he, breaking off the
-conversation, as a train of at least half-a-dozen carriages rattled
-down to the landing-place, and counts, countesses, tutors, barons,
-children, dogs, governesses, portmanteaus, bags, boxes, and trunks were
-tumbled out indiscriminately on the landing-place. “Heaven and earth!
-if they have not _impedimenta_ enough for an army! and this is only
-their light marching baggage either. All their heavy articles came on
-board yesterday, and are stowed under hatches. I’ll be bound we draw an
-additional foot of water for them. Hang the fellows! they are as bad as
-Junot, they are carrying off the plunder of half the country.”
-
-“Like the Swedes under Oxenstjerna,” said the Parson; “but what need
-you care for that? The plunder—if it is plunder—comes from England, not
-Sweden.”
-
-“It will lumber up the whole cabin, whether it comes from the one or the
-other,” said Birger; “we shall not have room to swing a cat.”
-
-“We don’t want to swing a cat,” said the Parson; “that is a Russian
-amusement rather than an English or a Swedish one, if all tales be
-true; and you may depend upon it we shall fare all the better for their
-presence: our skipper could never think of setting anything short of
-turtle and venison before such very magnificent three-tailed bashaws.”
-
-“Yes,” said Birger, “they are going to Petersburgh, too, where the
-chances are, the bashaws will find some good opportunity of squaring
-accounts with the skipper for any ill-treatment, before the steamer is
-permitted to sail.”
-
-All the while this conversation was going on, the illustrious passengers
-were rapidly accomplishing the short passage from the shore to the
-steamer, a whole flotilla of boats being employed in the service,
-while the hurried click of the pauls, and the quick revolutions of the
-windlass, as the chain-cable was hove short, showed that in the Captain’s
-opinion, as well as that of the Mate, quite time enough had been wasted
-already.
-
-But the golden opportunity had been lost. English tides respect no man,
-not even Russian ambassadors, and old Father Thames was yet to read them
-a lesson on the text—
-
- If you will not, when you may,
- When you will, you shall have Nay.
-
-While the vessel was riding to the ebb tide, as she had done all the
-morning, a warp which had been laid out from her port quarter would
-have canted her head well into the stream; and the tide, acting on her
-starboard bow while the after-part was in comparatively still water,
-would have winded her downwards, almost before her paddles were in
-motion, or her rudder could be brought to act. But the turn of the tide
-had reversed all this. The vessel had indeed swung to the flood, which by
-this time was rattling up at the rate of five or six miles an hour, and
-thus her bowsprit was looking the way she wanted to go; but a strong eddy
-was now bubbling up under her starboard bow, and pressing it towards the
-left bank, while a great lumbering Indiaman lay just ahead of her, and a
-Hamburgh steamer, which had anchored a little higher up on her starboard
-quarter, forbade all reversing of the engine and thus getting out of the
-mess stern foremost.
-
-The moment the anchor broke ground the helm was put hard a-port, and the
-paddles were set in motion; but though from the tide alone the rudder had
-some effect, the strength of the eddy was too much for her; round came
-her head to port, as if she were going to take a leap at the embankment.
-
-“Hard a-port!—hard a-starboard!—ease her!—stop her!—turn her a-head!”
-were the contradictory orders bawled out almost simultaneously. If noise
-and shouting could have got the steamer out of the scrape, there was no
-lack of it; but all these cries, energetic as they were, produced no
-effect whatever, beyond exciting a little suspicion in the mind of our
-travellers (some of whom having been at sea before, knew the stem of a
-ship from the stern) that the skipper was not altogether a “deacon in
-his craft;” and thus giving a point to the Mate’s silent but expressive
-shrug when the Parson had alluded to the shoals at the river’s mouth. At
-last, an indescribable sensation of grating, and a simultaneous volley
-of heterogeneous oaths, such as sailors shot their guns with on grand
-occasions, announced the fact that she had taken the ground abaft.
-
-This, however, as it turned out, was about the best thing that could
-have happened, for it gave the skipper time to collect his senses; or,
-what was more to the purpose, gave the Mate time to whisper in his ear;
-and the rising tide was sure to float her again in ten minutes. By this
-time a warp had been got out to a ship anchored upon the Surrey side,
-an expedient which any sailor would have thought of before tripping
-his anchor in the first instance. The end of it was passed round the
-windlass and hove taut, and as the rising water slowly lifted the unlucky
-vessel from her sludgy bed and a few turns brought a strain upon her,
-she gradually slewed her head outwards. The steam was turned on, the
-paddles went round; the black water began to fizz under her counter, as
-if a million of bottles of stout had been poured into it—she was at last
-a-weigh and fairly on her course, only about six hours after her proper
-time.
-
-“I tell you what,” said the Parson, as he dived down the companion to
-inspect the submarine arrangements of the cabin, “I leave this vessel at
-Christiansand, and I wish we were fairly out of her. This fellow knows no
-more of sea-craft than a tailor. Kind Providence shield us, or we shall
-come to grief yet!”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III.
-
-THE SHIPWASH SAND.
-
- “Our ship,
- Which but three glasses since we gave out split,
- Is tight and yare and bravely rigged, as when
- We first put out to sea.”
-
- _Tempest._
-
-
-One by one the travellers crept down to the cabin. It was as
-uncomfortable as cabins usually are, perhaps more so, as being more
-lumbered and more crowded; and the ordinary space for locomotion had been
-miserably curtailed by a large supplementary table, which the steward was
-lashing athwart ship for the dinner accommodation of the supernumerary
-passengers. These were standing about here and there, as helpless and
-uncomfortable as people always are on first starting, and were regarding
-one another with looks of suspicion and distrust, as people who start by
-a public conveyance always do regard one another.
-
-In this the English part of the community was prominently conspicuous.
-Denizens of a free land, it would seem as if they considered it as their
-bounden duty to be continually exhibiting their Magna Charta in the
-eyes of foreigners, and to maintain their just rights to the very death
-against all comers.
-
-No rights, however, were invaded—there was no opportunity of asserting
-the Magna Charta; all were equally shy and equally miserable; till, by
-degrees, as the steamer crept slowly down the river against the tide,
-they shook into their places, and the ladies began to smile, and the
-ladies’ maids to look gracious.
-
-The Parson was an old stager. Knowing full well the value of light and
-air in the present crowded state of the cabin, he had very willingly
-assented to the apologetic invitation of the steward, and had established
-himself comfortably enough on the transom itself, upon which was spread
-for his accommodation a horsehair mattress. There was no great deal to
-spare in the height of his domicile, for it was as much as he could
-conveniently manage to sit upright in it; but it was, at all events,
-retired, airy, and not subject to be suddenly evacuated by its occupant
-under the overpowering influence of a lee lurch or a weather roll.
-
-Totally disregarding the bustle and confusion in the cabin below him, he
-was occupied in arranging and beautifying his temporary home. The sill
-of one window formed his travelling library, the books of which he had
-been unpacking from his stores, and securing by a piece of spun yarn
-from the disagreeable consequences of any sudden send of the ship in a
-rolling sea. The next formed his toilet-table and workshop, exhibiting
-his reels and fly-books, and the huge and well-known “material book,” the
-replenishing of which had occupied so much of his attention. The third
-was left empty, so as to be opened and shut at pleasure.
-
-Stretched on his mattress, with a guide-book in his hand, and the map
-of Norway and Sweden at his side, he looked from his high abode on the
-turmoil of the cabin deck, with all the calmness and complacency with
-which the gods of the Epicureans are said to regard the troubles and
-distresses of mortals below.
-
-And thus wore on the day. Dinner, tea, had been discussed—some little
-portion of constraint and shyness had been rubbed off—small knots of men
-were formed here and there, discussing nothings and making conversation.
-Night sank down upon the steamer as she ploughed her way across the Nore,
-and the last of the talkers rolled himself up in his bedclothes, and
-tried, though for a long while in vain, to accustom himself to public
-sleeping.
-
-It was still dark—for the time was hardly three in the morning—when
-the Parson—who, accustomed to all the vicissitudes of travel, had been
-making the most of the hours of darkness, and had been for some time fast
-asleep—was suddenly startled from his dreams by a furious concussion on
-the rudder-case against which his head was pillowed. The vessel became
-stationary, and the fresh breezey hissing of the water in her wake and
-the tremulous motion everywhere suddenly ceased.
-
-“By George, she’s hard and fast!” said the Captain; who, taking hint
-from the comfortable appearance which the Parson had given to his own
-berth, had occupied the same position on the starboard side, and was now
-invading the Parson’s territories from abaft the rudder-case.
-
-“What the devil is to be done now?”
-
-“Nothing at all,” said the Parson; “it is no business of ours; and I am
-sure it is not time to get up yet.”
-
-“Well, but she has certainly struck on a sand.”
-
-“I know that as well as you,” said the Parson; “but you can’t get her
-off. Besides, there is not a bit of danger yet, at all events, for the
-sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. There they go, reversing their engine:
-much good that will do. If there was any truth in that bump I felt,
-she is much too fast aground for that. And the tide falling too!”—he
-continued, striking a lucifer and looking at his watch. “Yes, it is
-falling now, it has turned this hour or more.”
-
-By this time the hurried trampling and stamping on deck had roused up the
-passengers, few of whom could comprehend what had happened, for there
-was no appearance of danger, and the ship was as steady and firm as a
-house. But there is nothing more startling or suggestive of alarm than
-that rushing to and fro of men, so close to the ear, which sounds to the
-uninitiated as if the very decks were breaking up.
-
-“Is it houraccan storrm?” shouted Professor Rosenschall, a fat
-greasy-looking Dane, whom Birger had been hoaxing and tormenting all
-the day before, partly for fun, and partly because he considered it the
-bounden duty of a true Swede to plague a Dane—paying off the Bloodbath by
-instalments.
-
-“Steward!” shouted the Professor, above all the din and confusion of the
-cabin, “Steward, vinden er stærkere? is it houraccan storrm?”
-
-“Yes, Professor, I am sorry to say it is,” said Birger, who had rolled
-himself up in a couple of blankets under the table, upon which was
-reposing the weight of the Professor’s learning. “It is what we call an
-Irish hurricane—all up and down.”
-
-“All up! O what will become of me—and down! O, my poor wife. Hvilken
-skrækelig storrm,” he screamed out, as half-a-dozen men clapped on to the
-tackle falls over his head, with the very innocent purpose of lowering
-the quarter-boat, and began clattering and dashing down the coils of rope
-upon the deck. “Troer de at der er fore paa Færde?—do you think there is
-any danger?”
-
-What with the Professor’s shouting, and what with the real uncertainty of
-the case, and the natural desire that every one, even the most helpless,
-has to see their peril and to do something for themselves, every
-passenger was by this time astir, and the whole cabin was buzzing like a
-swarm of bees.
-
-The Parson’s idea of sleeping was altogether out of the question;
-and, the Captain having gone on deck, he very soon followed him; for,
-notwithstanding his assumed coolness, he was by no means so easy in his
-mind as he would have his friends to understand. He had been at sea
-before this, and was, at least, as well aware as they, that grounding out
-of sight of land, is a very different thing from grounding in the Thames.
-
-The scene on deck was desolate enough. The steamer had struck on the
-Shipwash, a dangerous shoal on the Essex coast, distant about twenty
-miles from land; and a single glance was sufficient to tell that there
-was not a chance of getting her off for the next twelve hours, though the
-Skipper was persisting in trying a variety of absurd expedients. The crew
-were looking anxious—the passengers were looking frightened; while the
-Skipper himself, who ought to have been keeping up every one’s spirits,
-was looking more wretched and more frightened than any one.
-
-The day was just breaking, but a fog was coming on, and the wind showed
-every symptom of freshening. The vessel, indeed, had begun to bump, but
-the tide leaving her, that motion left her also, and she began now to
-lie over on her bilge. From some unfortunate list she had got in her
-stowing (Birger declared it was the weight of the ambassador’s despatch
-boxes), she fell over to windward instead of to leeward, thus leaving her
-decks perfectly exposed to the run of the sea, if the wind should freshen
-seriously.
-
-When the Parson came on deck, the boats had just returned from sounding.
-The Skipper had, indeed, endeavoured to lay out an anchor with them—an
-object in which he might possibly have succeeded, had he tried it at
-first and before there was any great rush of tide, for the steamer had
-struck at the very turn of the flood; but he had wasted his time in
-reversing his engines and in backing and taking in sails which there was
-no wind to fill; and thus, before he had got his anchor lashed to the
-boat, which, like all passage steamers’ boats, was utterly inadequate for
-the work, the stream was strong enough to swamp boat, anchor, and all,
-and it was fortunate indeed that no lives were lost.
-
-It appeared from the soundings that the ship had not struck on the main
-shoal, but on a sort of spit or ridge, the neck of a submarine peninsula
-projecting from the S.W. corner of it. Almost under her bows was a deep
-turnhole or bay in the sand about two cables across, communicating with
-the open water, beyond which, right athwart her hawse, lay the main body
-of the shoal, so that the beacon which marked its northern extremity,
-and which was now beginning to show in the increasing light of the
-morning, lay broad on her port bow, while the other end of the shoal
-was well on her starboard beam; at half a cable length astern, and on
-her port quarter and beam was the deep water with which the turnhole
-communicated,—this being, in fact, the channel she ought to have kept.
-
-It was perfectly evident that nothing could be done till the top of
-the next tide, and whether anything could be done then was extremely
-problematical with the wind rising and the sea getting up; experience
-having already shown that there was not a boat in the steamer fit for
-laying out an anchor.
-
-However, for the present the water was smooth enough; they were for the
-time perfectly safe and comfortable, lying, as they did, under the lee of
-the shoal, patches of which were now beginning to show just awash; while
-the seas were breaking heavily enough certainly, but a full half-mile
-to windward of them. The passengers, seeing nothing to alarm them, and
-feeling their appetites well sharpened by their early rising, began to
-lose their fears and to be clamorous for breakfast; and the meal was
-served with a promptness which, under the circumstances, was perfectly
-astonishing.
-
-Those who know nothing fear nothing, and the jokes which were flying
-about and the general hilarity which pervaded the whole meeting, conveyed
-anything rather than the idea of shipwrecked mariners; though, truth
-to say, this feeling did not seem to be fully participated in by the
-Skipper, who presided at what might very fairly be called the head of the
-table, for it was many feet higher than the foot; he looked all the while
-as if he was seated on a cushion stuffed with bramble bushes.
-
-The Parson, by way, he said, of utilising his moments, was preparing for
-fishing—calculating, and rightly too, that the whiting would congregate
-under the lee of the stranded ship.
-
-He had made his preparations with characteristic attention to his own
-comfort and convenience. The dingy, which was hanging at the stern
-davits, formed at once his seat and his fishing-basket; and as he had
-eased off as much of the lee tackle fall as brought the boat to an even
-keel, the taffrail itself afforded him a shelter from the wind, which was
-now getting high enough to be unpleasant.
-
-There he sat, hour after hour, busily and very profitably employed,
-heeding the gradual advance and strengthening of the tide only so far as
-its increasing current required the use of heavier leads.
-
-The Captain and Birger had been trying to walk the sloping deck, a
-pursuit of pedestrianism under difficulties, for it was very much as
-if they had been trying to walk along the roof of a house. Time hangs
-heavily on the hands of those who have nothing to do, and there was
-nothing to do by the most active of sailors beyond hoisting the ensign
-union downwards, and that might just as well have been left undone too,
-for all the notice that was taken of it. Ship after ship passed by—the
-foreign traders to windward, the English through the shorter but more
-dangerous channel that lay between them and the main land. Many of them
-were quite near enough for anxious passengers to make out the people in
-them reconnoitring the position of the unfortunate _Walrus_ through their
-telescopes. But if they did look on her, certainly they passed by on the
-other side; it never seemed to enter into the heads of one of them to
-afford assistance.
-
-“Pleasant,” said Birger, “very. Is this the way your sailors help one
-another in distress?”
-
-“I am afraid so,” said the Captain.
-
- “Gayer insects fluttering by
- Ne’er droop the wing o’er those that die;
- And English tars have pity shown
- For every failure but their own.”
-
-“You do not mean to say that they will not help us if there really is
-danger?” said the Swede.
-
-“Upon my word, I hope there will not be any real danger; for if you
-expect any help from them, I can tell you that you will not get it.”
-
-“Not get it!” said Birger, who did not at all seem to relish the prospect
-before him.
-
-“That you will not. Sink or swim, we sink or swim by our own exertions.
-Those scoundrels could not help us without losing a whole tide up the
-river, a whole day’s pay of the men, and so much per cent. on the cargo,
-besides the chance of being forestalled in the market: do you think
-they would do that to save the lives of half-a-hundred such as you and
-me? Why, you have not learned your interest tables; you do not seem to
-understand how much twenty per cent. in a year comes to for a day. A
-precious deal more than our lives are worth, I can tell you.”
-
-Birger looked graver still; drowning for a soldier was not a professional
-death, and he did not relish the idea of it.
-
-The Captain continued his words of comfort. “I was very nearly losing a
-brother this way myself,” he said. “He was invalided from the coast of
-Africa, and had taken his passage home in a merchant vessel. They had
-met with a gale of wind off the Scillies; the ship had sprung a leak,
-and when the gale had subsided to a gentle easterly breeze dead against
-them, there were they within twenty miles of the Longships, water-logged,
-with all their boats stove, and their bulwarks gone. Timber ships do not
-sink very readily, and incessant pumping had kept them afloat, but it
-was touch and go with that—their decks awash, and the seas rolling in at
-one side and out at the other. While they were in this state, the whole
-outward-bound fleet of English ships passed them, some almost within
-hailing distance, and all without taking more notice of them than those
-scoundrels are taking of us. They would, all hands, have gone to the
-bottom together, in the very midst of their countrymen, if a French brig
-had not picked them off and carried them into Falmouth. It was so near a
-thing, that the vessel sank almost before the last boat had shoved off
-from her side.
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “if there is a selfish brute upon earth, it is an
-English sailor.”
-
-“Natural enough that you should say so, just at present,” said the
-Captain; “though, as a Swede, you might have recollected the superstition
-that prevails in your own country against helping a drowning man. But
-the fact is, the fault lies not so much with the sailors as with the
-insurance regulations at Lloyds’. Likely enough, every one of these
-fellows has a desire to help us; but if they go one cable’s length from
-their course to do so, or if they stay one half-hour by us when they
-might have been making their way to their port, they vitiate their
-insurance. Man is a selfish animal, no doubt—sea-going man as well
-as shore-going man—and it is very possible that some of them would
-rather see their neighbours perish than lose the first of the market;
-but laws such as these render selfishness imperatively necessary to
-self-preservation, and banish humanity from the maritime code.”
-
-“I wish all Lloyds’ were on the Shipwash,” said Birger, “and had to wait
-there till I picked them off.”
-
-“Yes,” said the Captain; “or that the House of Commons were compelled to
-take a winter’s voyage every year in some of these company’s vessels.
-I think, then, they might possibly find out the advantage of certain
-laws and certain officers to see them put in force, in order to prevent
-their going to sea so wretchedly found. There is nothing like personal
-experience for these legislators. This vessel has not a boat bigger than
-a cockle-shell belonging to her. Did you not hear how nearly the Mate was
-lost last night,—and he is the only real sailor in the ship—when they
-were trying to lay out an anchor—a manœuvre which, I see, they have not
-accomplished yet?”
-
-“Hallo! this is serious,” said Birger, as a heavy sea struck the weather
-paddle-box, and broke over them in spray: for the tide had been gradually
-rising, without, as yet, raising the ship; and, as she lay over to
-windward, the seas that now began to break upon her starboard bow and
-side, deluged her from stem to stern.
-
-“Upon my soul,” said the Captain, “I don’t like this, myself; and there
-sits the Parson, fishing away, as quietly as if he were on the pier at
-Boveysand. By Jove, Nero fiddling while Rome was burning, is a fool to
-him! Why, Parson, don’t you think there is some danger in all this?”
-
-“‘Er det noget Færde?’ as your friend the professor would say,” said the
-Parson, laughing. “I do not think it improbable that the _Walrus_ will
-leave her bones here, if you mean that.—Stop, I’ve got another bite!”
-
-“Confound your bite! If she leaves her bones here, we shall leave ours
-too; for she has not boats for the fourth of us, the devil take them! and
-as for expecting help from these rascally colliers——”
-
-“You may just as well fiddle to the dolphins,” said the Parson. “I know
-that; but do you see that little cutter,—that fellow, I mean, on our
-quarter, that has just tacked? and there beyond her is another, that is
-now letting fly her jib-sheet. I have been watching those fellows all
-the morning, beating out from Harwich. They are having a race, and a
-beautiful race they make of it: you cannot tell yet which has the best of
-it. If those cutters were going over to the Dutch coast, you may depend
-upon it they would not make such short boards. There—look—the leading one
-is in stays again. Those fellows are racing for us, and with our ensign
-Union down, as we have it, we shall make a pretty good prize for the one
-that gets first to us. Those two are pilot-boats. You may depend upon it,
-we are not going to lay our bones here, whatever comes of the _Walrus_.”
-
-The Parson’s anticipations were realised sooner than he expected, for a
-long low life-boat, that nobody had seen till she was close alongside,
-came up, carrying off the prize from both competitors—and preparations
-were begun, which ought to have been completed hours before, for laying
-out an anchor.
-
-Before long, the cutters also had worked up and anchored on the lee edge
-of the shoal, to the great relief of every one on board; for the seas
-were by this time making such a breach over her, that no one could be
-ignorant of the danger.
-
-Suddenly, and without preparation, she righted, throwing half the
-passengers off their legs, and very nearly precipitating the Parson into
-the sea; who took that as a hint to leave his seat in the dingy. Soon
-afterwards she began to bump, first lightly, and then more heavily, and
-the paddles were set in motion. The windlass was manned and worked;
-but the shifting sand afforded no good holding-ground for the anchor,
-which had not been backed—nor, indeed, had any precautions been taken
-whatever—and as soon as there was any strain upon it, it came home and
-was perfectly useless.
-
-The ship now was hanging a little abaft the chess-tree, on the very top
-of the spit; but the stern was free, and the bows were actually in the
-deep water of the turnhole, while at every bump she gained an inch or
-two: just then, the anchor coming home, and the tide taking her under the
-port bow, she ran up in the wind, and pointed for the very centre of the
-shoal.
-
-“Why the devil don’t you set your jib?” bellowed out the Captain, who had
-begun to get excited. “Where the deuce is that know-nothing Skipper of
-yours?”
-
-“Upon my soul, sir, I do not know,” said the Mate, who was standing at
-the wheel, and was looking very anxiously forward.
-
-“Then why don’t you go forward and set it yourself? We shall be on the
-main shoal in two minutes, if she floats.”
-
-“I know it, sir,” said the Mate; “but I dare not leave my post. We shall
-all have to answer for this; and if I am not where the Skipper has placed
-me, he will throw the blame upon me.”
-
-“Then, by George, I don’t care _that_ for your Skipper. Come along, boys,
-we’ll run up the jib ourselves.”
-
-And away he rushed, pushing and shouldering his way along the crowded
-decks, among idlers, and horses, and carriages, followed by his own
-party, and a good many of the foreigners also; till he emerged on the
-forecastle, when, throwing down the jib and fore-staysail hallyards from
-the bitts and clattering them on the deck, while the Parson went forward
-to see all clear, he called out to the Russian servants, who, wet and
-frightened, were cowering under the carriages—
-
-“Here, you slaveys, come out of that—_clappez-vous sur ceci_—clap on
-here, you rascals—_rousez-vous dehors de ces bulwarks_. What the devil is
-Greek for ‘skulking?’”
-
-Whether the Russians understood one word of the Captain’s French,
-or whether they would have understood one word of it had they been
-Frenchmen, may be doubted; but his actions were significant enough; and
-the men, who only wanted to be told what to do, clapped on to the jib and
-fore-staysail hallyards as well and as eagerly as if they had known what
-was to be done with them; here and there, too, was seen a blue-jacket,
-for the seamen had no wish to skulk, if there had been any one to command
-them.
-
-“Gib mig ropes enden!” shouted Professor Rosenschall, who had caught the
-enthusiasm, and was panting after them, though a long way astern.
-
-“Birger will do that for you,” said the Parson, laughing, but without
-pausing for one moment from his work—“Birger! the Professor wants a
-rope’s-end.”
-
-“Vær saa artig!” said Birger, tendering him the signal hallyards,
-the bight of which he had hitched round a spare capstan-bar on which
-he was standing. For Birger, like most Swedish soldiers, had passed a
-twelvemonth in a midshipman’s berth, where, whatever seamanship he had
-picked up, he had, at all events, learned plenty of mischief.
-
-“Away with you!” roared the Captain. “Up with the sails—both of them.”
-
-“Skynda! Professor, Skynda!” echoed Birger, leaping off the capstan-bar
-as he spoke, and thus causing the Professor to pitch headlong among the
-trampling men.
-
-“Up with it! up with it, cheerily! look there, she pays off already!”
-as the two sails flew out; the jib, which was not confined by any stay,
-bagging away to leeward and hanging there, but still drawing and doing
-good service. “Up with it, boys—round she comes, like a top! Hurrah,
-that’s elegant!” as a sea struck her full on the quarter, which, by her
-paying off, had now become exposed to it. On it came, breaking over the
-taffrail and deluging the idlers on the poop, but at the same time giving
-her the final shove off the ridge. “Off she goes! Shout, boys, shout! and
-wake up that Skipper, wherever he is!”
-
-And amid the most discordant yells that ever proceeded from heterogeneous
-voices—Danish, Dutch, Swedish, German, and Russ, above which, distinct
-and ringing, rose the heart-stirring English cheer—the steamer, once more
-under command of her rudder, buzzed, and dashed her way into the open
-sea.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV.
-
-THE LANDFALL.
-
- “Bewilderedly gazes
- On the wild sea, the eagle
- When he reaches the strand:
- So is it with the man;
- In the crowd he standeth
- And hath but few friends there.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-“Nothing gives one so lively an idea of eternal, irresistible progress—of
-steady, inexorable, unalterable fate, as the ceaseless grinding of these
-enormous engines.” Thus moralised Birger, as, two days after the events
-recorded in the last chapter, he stood with his brother officer, the
-Captain, on the grating that gave air into the engine-room. “In joy or in
-sorrow, in hope or in fear, on they go—grinding—grinding, never stopping,
-never varying, never hurrying themselves:—the same quiet, irresistible
-round over and over again: we go to bed—we leave them grinding; we get
-up—there they are, grinding still; we are full of hope, and joy, and
-expectancy, looking out for land and its pleasures—they go no faster;
-they would go no faster if we went to grief and misery. If you or I
-were to fall dead at this moment, the whole ship would be in an uproar,
-every man of them all showing his interest, or his curiosity, one way or
-other—but still would go on, through it all, that eternal, everlasting
-grinding.”
-
-“Everlasting it is,” said the Captain, who was not at all poetical,
-and who was anxious to be at his journey’s end. “This steamer is the
-very slowest top I have ever had the misfortune to sail in. By every
-calculation we should have made the coast of Norway ages ago; I have
-been on the look out for it ever since daylight; but six, seven, eight,
-nine, and no coast yet. Breakfast over, and here are your everlasting
-wheels of fate grinding away, and not one bit nearer land, as far as
-I can see, than they were before. I’ll be hanged if the wind is not
-getting northerly too,” he said, looking up, as the fore and aft foresail
-over their head gave a flap, as if it would shake the canvas out of the
-bolt-ropes. “I thought so. Look at them brailing up the mainsail! wind
-and steam together, we never got seven knots out of this tub; I wonder
-what we shall get now—and the sea getting up too?”
-
-Several consecutive pitches, which set the horses kicking, and prostrated
-one-half of the miserable, worn-out, dirty-looking deck passengers,
-seemed fully to warrant the Captain’s grumbling assertion, and they
-scrambled back to the poop; upon which most of the passengers were by
-this time congregated, for the sun was shining out brightly, and the
-wind, though there was plenty of it, was fresh and bracing.
-
-They had evidently by this time opened the north of Scotland, for the
-slow, heaving swell of the Northern Ocean was rolling in upon them; and
-this, meeting the windwash knocked up by the last night’s south-easterly
-breeze, was making a terrible commotion in the ship, and everything and
-everybody belonging to it.
-
-“Land! land!” shouted the Parson, who had climbed upon the weather
-bulwarks, and was holding on by the vang to steady his footing. “Land, I
-see it now; where could our eyes have been? There it is, like blue clouds
-rising out of the water.”
-
-There was a general move and a general crowding towards the spot to
-which he was pointing, but just then the ship pitched bowsprit and bows
-under, jerking the Parson off his legs; upsetting every passenger who had
-nothing to hold on by, and submerging half-a-dozen men on the jib-boom,
-who were occupied in stowing the now useless jib. They rose from their
-involuntary bath puffing and blowing, and shaking the water from their
-jackets, but continuing their work as if nothing had happened.
-
-There, however, was the land, beyond a doubt. No Cape Flyaway, but
-land—bold, decided, and substantial. Whether it was that people had
-not looked for it in the right direction, or had not known what to look
-for; or whether, as was most likely, a haze had hung over the morning
-sea, which the sun had now risen high enough to dispel; whatever was the
-cause, there stood the hitherto invisible land, speaking of hope and joy,
-and quiet dinners, and clean beds, and creating a soul under the ribs of
-sea-sickness.
-
-Long, however, it was before they neared it,—hour after hour; and
-Birger’s everlasting wheels went grinding on, and the mountains seemed no
-higher and no plainer than they were when the Parson had first descried
-them. But the day had become much more enjoyable, the wind had moderated,
-and the swell was less felt, as the land began to afford some protection.
-
-The Captain and his friend Birger had by this time established themselves
-on the break of the poop, with their sketch-books in their hands,
-nominally to sketch the outline of the land, really to caricature the
-Russian magnates during their hours of marine weakness. While Monsieur
-Simonet, one of the numerous tutors, a venturesome Frenchman, climbed
-warily up the main shrouds to get a better view, creeping up step by
-step, ascertaining the strength of each rattlin before he ventured his
-weight upon it, and holding on to the shrouds like grim Death. Quietly
-and warily stole after him the Mate, with a couple of stout foxes hitched
-round his left arm.
-
-“Faith,” said Birger, “they are going to make a spread-eagle of him.
-Well, that is kind; it will prepare him for his new country; it is in
-compliment to Russia, I suppose, that they turn him into the national
-device.”
-
-But the Mate had reckoned without his host. The Frenchman made a capital
-fight for it, and in the energy of his resistance, entirely forgot his
-precarious position; he kicked, he cuffed, he fought gallantly, and
-finally succeeded in seizing his adversary’s cap, a particularly jaunty
-affair with gold lace round it, in imitation of her Majesty’s navy, of
-which the Mate was especially proud. This, the Frenchman swore by every
-saint the Revolution had left in his calendar, he would heave overboard;
-and before the Captain had completed the little sketch he was taking of
-the transaction, a capitulation was entered into by the belligerents upon
-the principle of the _statu quo_, and the discomfited Mate descended,
-leaving his adversary to enjoy at once his position and his victory.
-
-By this time sails, unseen before, had begun to dot the space which still
-intervened between the steamer and the iron-bound coast before it, which
-now rose stern and rugged, and desolately beautiful, clothed everywhere
-with a sort of rifle-green, from the dark hues of the fir and juniper,
-for none but the hardy evergreens could bear the severe blasts of even
-its southern aspect; few and far between were these sails at first, and
-insignificant did they seem under the abrupt and lofty mountains which
-rose immediately out of the sea, without any beach or coast-line, or
-low-land whatever; but, as they neared the land, the moving objects
-assumed a more conspicuous place in the landscape.
-
-There was the great heavy galliasse with pigs from Bremen or colonial
-produce from Hamburg—a sort of parallelogram with the corners rounded,
-such as one sees in the pictures of the old Dutch school two hundred
-years ago—not an atom of alteration or improvement in its build since
-the days of old Van Tromp; the same flat floor and light draft of
-water—the same lumbering lee-boards—the same great, stiff, substantial,
-square-rigged foremast, with a little fore and aft mizen, which looked
-like an after-thought; she might be said to be harrowing the main instead
-of ploughing it, according to our more familiar metaphor, with a great
-white ridge of foam heaped up under her bows, and a broad, ragged wake
-like that of a steamer.
-
-And there was the Norwegian brig returning from Copenhagen with a cargo
-of corn for Christiansand; rough and ill-found, nine times in ten not
-boasting so much as a foretop-gallant sail, yet tight and seaworthy, and
-far better than she looked; built after the model of a whale’s body,
-full forward and lean aft, with a stern so narrow that she looked as if
-she had been sailing through the Symplegades, and had got pinched in the
-transit.
-
-Then came a fleet of a dozen jagts from the north, the tainted breezes
-advertising their fishy cargo, as they came along. These were the
-originals of the English yacht, which unspellable word is merely the
-Norwegian _jagt_, written as it is pronounced in the country, for Norway
-is the only nation besides England that takes its pleasure on the deep
-sea. With their single great unwieldy sails, their tea-tray-shaped hulls,
-and towering sterns, they looked like a boy’s first essays in the art of
-ship-building.
-
-But Bergen furnishes a far more ship-shape description of craft—sharp
-fore and aft vessels are the Bergeners, looking as if they had all been
-built on the same lines, with little, low bulwarks, and knife-like
-cutwaters, as if they were intended to cut through the seas rather than
-to ride over them, sailing almost in the wind’s eye, and, when very
-close hauled indeed, a point on the other side of it—at least, so their
-skippers unanimously assert, and they ought to know best,—at all events,
-ensuring a wet jacket to every one on board, be the weather as fine as it
-may, from the time they leave the port to the time they return to it.
-
-Then came, crowding all sail and looking as if they were rigged for
-a regatta, with their butterfly summer gear and tapering spars, the
-lobster smacks from Lyngör, and Osterisö, and Arendahl, and Hellesund:
-and a regatta it was on a large scale, with the wide North Sea for a
-race-course, omnivorous London for the goal, and its ever-fluctuating
-markets for a prize. These were sharp, trim-looking vessels, admirably
-handled, and not unworthy of a place in the lists of any Royal Yacht
-Club for beauty or for speed; somewhat less sharp, perhaps, than the
-Bergeners, but scarcely less weatherly or sitting less lightly on the
-seas.
-
-The near approach to the land, which had been for so many hours looked
-for in vain, seemed to bring no great comfort to the unfortunate Skipper,
-who kept fidgetting about the decks with a perplexed and anxious
-countenance. Glasses were brought on deck, and rubbed and polished over
-and over again, and directed in succession to every mountain peak that
-showed itself, and every inlet that opened before them. Then, little
-mysterious consultations were held between the Skipper and his First
-Mate; then, one man was sent for, then another; then more whispering,
-and more mystery, more shaking of the heads and examination of charts;
-then an adjournment to the bridge, on which the Parson was then standing,
-taking his survey of the craft in sight, and enjoying the sunshine.
-At last, the whispering took a more objurgatory tone; more in the way
-of a growl, with now and then a short, emphatic sentence of eternal
-condemnation on somebody’s eyes, or blood, or other personalities,—as is
-the custom of those who “go down to the sea in ships.”
-
-The first distinct words which met the Parson’s ear, came from the lips
-of the Skipper, pronounced in a sharp, acid, querulous sort of tone; such
-as superiors sometimes indulge in, when they are fixing on the shoulders
-of an inferior the blame they shrewdly suspect all the while, ought, if
-justice had its due, to rest on their own.
-
-“You are not worth your salt, sir,” he said; “you are not worth your
-salt—you ought to be ashamed of wearing a blue jacket, you know-nothing,
-lubberly ...” and so forth; expressions by no means unusual at sea,
-certainly, but sounding somewhat misplaced in the present instance,
-inasmuch as if there was any one in the whole ship not worth his salt,
-the speaker certainly was the man, in his own proper person.
-
-“Upon my soul, sir,” said the man addressed, “if I tried to tell you
-anything about it, I should be only deceiving you. I know the coast about
-Christiansand as well as any man. I have traded to that port for years,
-and taken the old brig in and out twenty times; but the land before us is
-all strange to me. I never saw those three hummocky hills before in my
-life. This is not Christiansand.”
-
-“Well, but if it is not, does Christiansand lie east or west of us—which
-way am I to steer?”
-
-The man raised his glass again, and took a long and anxious survey, but
-apparently with no better result.
-
-“Really, sir, I cannot say. I cannot make it out at all; there is not one
-single sea-mark that I know.”
-
-“Then what the devil did you ship for as a pilot, if you knew nothing
-of your business?” Here followed another strong detachment of marine
-expletives.
-
-“I shipped as a pilot for Christiansand, sir; and, for the Sound, and for
-Copenhagen; and can take the steamer into any one of them, if she drew
-as much as a first-rate; but this place is neither one nor the other of
-them, and I never called myself a coasting pilot.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “this seems to me sad waste of breath and
-temper; if you are a couple of lost babes, why do you not ask your way?
-There lies a pilot-boat, as you may see with your own eyes,” pointing to
-a little cutter exhibiting in the bright sunshine a single dark cloth in
-a very white mainsail, which, with her foresheet to windward, lay bobbing
-about in the swell right ahead of them. “That is a pilot-boat, and I
-suppose she knows the way, if you do not—why do you not hail her?”
-
-The Skipper looked askance at the Parson, as if he meditated some not
-very complimentary reply about minding one’s own business; for, conscious
-of the estimation in which he was himself held by the fishing party, who
-were in no way chary of their remarks, he regarded them with anything
-but friendly feelings. But the advice was too obviously sound to be
-neglected, and the Skipper was not by any means anxious that the magnates
-on the poop should become acquainted with the fact that he was at sea in
-more senses than one.
-
-In a few minutes the steamer was alongside the little shrimp of a cutter,
-taking the wind out of her sails by her huge unwieldy hull.
-
-A short conversation passed between them, which as one-half was sworn
-down the wind in very loud English, and the other half came struggling up
-in broad Norske, was not attended with any very satisfactory results.
-
-Birger offered his services.
-
-“You may as well ask them what they will take us into Christiansand for,”
-said the Skipper; “that will soon make them find their English.”
-
-A few more unintelligible words were exchanged, and Birger burst out
-laughing.
-
-“They cannot do it,” he said: “they cannot take us into Christiansand:
-not only they are not able, but they are not licensed to ply so far.”
-
-“Why! where are we, then?” said the astonished Skipper.
-
-“Off Arendahl!” said Birger.
-
-“Arendahl!” broke in the Parson, “why, that is fifty miles to the
-westward of your course.”
-
-“Well, I cannot conceive how that can be,” said the Skipper. “Something
-wrong, I am afraid, with the compasses. We ought not to be so far out; we
-steered a straight course, and—”
-
-“That did you not,” said Birger, “whatever else you did; the Captain and
-I have been studying the theory of transcendental curves from your wake.”
-
-“I can tell you how it is,” said the Parson; “you have steered your
-course as you say, and have not allowed for the easterly set of the
-current, and you imagine how this must have acted upon us under the
-influence of these rolling swells which we have had on our port bow ever
-since daylight, every one of which must have set us down a fathom or
-two to leeward. Don’t you recollect that we lost three line-of-battle
-ships coming home from the Baltic by this very blunder. Compasses!” he
-continued, _sotto voce_, “a pretty lot of blunders are thrown on those
-unfortunate compasses, in every court-martial. However,” he continued,
-aloud, “there is no help for it,—thankful ought we to be it is no worse;
-there is but one thing to be done now, and what that one thing is, you
-know as well as I.”
-
-This the Skipper did know. A close survey of the remaining coals took
-place, and it was decided that notwithstanding the expenditure that took
-place on the day on the Shipwash, there might, with economy, be enough
-for six hours’ consumption, Birger inquiring innocently, “whether the
-Skipper had not anything that would burn in his own private stores?”
-
-The steamer’s course was accordingly altered nine or ten points, for
-the coast from Arendahl to Christiansand trends southerly, and she had
-actually overshot her mark, and gone to the northward as well as to the
-eastward of her port, so that land which had hitherto lain before them,
-was thus brought abaft the starboard beam.
-
-To those who, like our fishermen, were not exactly making a passage,
-but exploring the country, and to whom it was a matter of indifference
-whether they dined at five or supped at eleven, the Skipper’s blunder was
-anything but an annoyance. It afforded them an opportunity, not often
-enjoyed, of seeing the outside coast of Norway; for in general, almost
-all the coasting trade, and all the passenger traffic, is carried on
-within the fringe of islands that guard the shores. An absolute failure
-in the article of fuel, and a week or so of calm within a few miles of
-their port, might have been a trial to their tempers; but there was no
-such temptation to grumbling on the present occasion; and, besides, the
-afternoon and evening were bright and warm, the wind had sunk to a calm,
-and though the ever restless sea was heaving and setting, the swells had
-become glassy, soft, and regular.
-
-Cape after cape, island after island of that inhospitable coast was
-passed, and not a sign of habitation, not a town, not a village, not even
-a fisherman’s cottage, or a solitary wreath of smoke was to be seen. The
-land seemed utterly uninhabited, and, as they drew out from the stream of
-trade, the very sea seemed tenantless also.
-
-The fact is, that the whole coast of Norway, and of Sweden also, is
-fringed with islands, in some places two or three deep, which are
-separated from the main and from each other by channels more or less
-broad, but always deep. Of these islands, the outer range is seldom
-inhabited at all, never on the seaward sides, which, exposed to the first
-sweep of the southwester, are either bare, bold rocks, or else nourish on
-their barren crags a scanty clothing of stunted fir or ragged juniper,
-but afford neither food nor shelter, and where that necessary of life,
-fresh water, is very rarely to be met with.
-
-The whole of the coasting trade passes within this barrier, and the
-houses and villages, of which there are many, lie hidden on the sheltered
-shores of the numerous channels; so that, however well peopled the coast
-may be—and in some places population is by no means scanty—neither house,
-nor boat, nor ship, except the foreign trade as it approaches or leaves
-the coast, is ever seen by the outside coaster.
-
-The shades of evening were already falling, and that at midsummer in
-Norway indicates a very late hour indeed, when the glimmer of a light
-was seen through the scrubby firs of a cape-land island, occasioning a
-general rush of expectant passengers to the bridge, for some had begun
-to doubt the very possibility of discovering this continually retreating
-port, and to class it with the fairy territories of Cloudland and Cape
-Flyaway; while others, with more practical views and less poetical
-imaginations, had been contemplating with anxiety the rapidly decreasing
-coals in the bunkers. Both parties, poets and utilitarians alike, had
-their fears set at rest when, on rounding the point, the long-lost
-lighthouse of Christiansand hove in sight—tall, white, pillar-like,
-looking shadowy and ghost-like, against the dark background behind it.
-The poets might have thought of the guardian spirit of some ancient sea
-king, permitted to watch over the safety of his former dwelling-place,
-for Christiansand is renowned in story. To the utilitarians it might, and
-probably did, suggest visions of fresh vegetables, and salmon, and cod,
-and lobsters, for all of which that town is famous.
-
-A bare, low, treeless slab of rock forms its site, a mere ledge, about
-a quarter-of-a-mile long, and sufficiently low, and sufficiently in
-advance of the higher islands, to form in itself a danger of no small
-magnitude during the long winter nights. It maintains on its withered
-wiry grass half-a-dozen sheep and a pig or two, the property of the
-lighthouse-keeper, which being the first signs of life and vestiges
-of habitation which had greeted the travellers during the afternoon’s
-steaming, were regarded with an interest of which they were not
-intrinsically deserving.
-
-In a very few minutes, the heaving of the outside sea was exchanged
-for the perfect calm and deep stillness of the harbour, with its
-overhanging woods, its long dusky reaches, its quiet inlets, and
-mysterious labyrinthine passages, among its dark, shadowy islands. These
-became higher and more wooded as the steamer wound her way among them,
-deepening the gloom, and bringing on more rapidly the evening darkness.
-All, however, looked deserted and uninhabited, till suddenly, on
-opening a point of land, high and wooded like all the rest, the town of
-Christiansand lay close before them, dark and indistinct in the midnight
-twilight, without the twinkle of a solitary lamp to enliven it, or to
-indicate the low houses from the rocks which surrounded and were confused
-with them.
-
-“Hurrah!” said the Parson, as the plunge of the anchor and the rattle of
-the chain cable broke the stillness of the night. “Some of us are not
-born to be drowned, that is certain.”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V.
-
-CHRISTIANSAND.
-
- “Dark it is without,
- And time for our going.”
-
- _Skirnis Fär._
-
-
-At the time the _Walrus_ dropped her anchor, all seemed as still and
-lonely as if no sound had ever awakened the silence of the harbour. The
-chain cable, as it rattled through the hawse-hole, had even a startling
-effect, so solitary, so unusual was the sound. The place seemed as if
-it had been uninhabited since creation; for though the town lay close
-before it, the houses, low and lightless, looked like a collection of
-fantastic rocks; but scarcely had she felt the strain of her cable, when
-her stern swung into the middle of a group of boats, which seemed as
-if they had risen from the depths of the sea, so sudden and unexpected
-was their appearance, and crowds of earnest, business-like, trafficing
-Norsemen were clambering up her sides at every practical point. Norway
-has no inns, and Norway is said to be a place of universal hospitality,
-where every one is delighted to receive the wandering guest—and so every
-one is, and delighted to receive the wandering guest’s money also, with
-two or three hundred per cent. profit on the outlay. The real fact is,
-every house in Norway is an inn, to all intents and purposes, except the
-license; and in places like Christiansand, every man is his own touter.
-Whatever is the noise and confusion of a vessel arriving at a French or
-Flemish port, on this occasion it was doubled, not only from the number
-and assiduity of hospitable hosts, but also from the unusual quantity and
-quality of the passengers. It was not every day that a Russian ambassador
-graced with his august presence, and his distinguished suite, an obscure
-trading town of Norway; and its citizens, inferior to no nation in the
-world in the art of turning an honest penny, were in two moments as well
-aware of the fact, and as fully determined to profit by it, as the Dutch
-landlady, who, having charged our second George the value of ten pounds
-sterling English for his two eggs and his bit of toast, informed him that
-though eggs were plentiful in her country, kings were not.
-
-The confusion which pervaded the _Walrus’s_ decks and cabins, the cries,
-the calls, the screams that were flying about unheeded; the extraordinary
-oaths that jostled one another, out of every language of Saxon, Russian,
-or Scandinavian origin; the obtrusive civilities of the touters; the
-officiousness of volunteering porters; the mistakes about luggage; the
-anxieties, the rushings to and fro, in which everybody is seeking for
-everybody, may easily be imagined; and none the less was the confusion of
-tongues; that night had thrown her veil over this floating Babel of the
-North.
-
-But through it all the three friends sat on their carpet bags of
-patience, smoking the cigar of peace, now and then making a joke among
-themselves, as the steward’s lantern flashed upon some face of unusual
-solicitude, but totally unconcerned amid the fluctuating hubbub that
-surrounded them.
-
-“Well,” said the Captain, “I have had enough of this fun, and am hungry
-besides; I vote we go on shore. I suppose your man is here?”
-
-The Parson got up, and, putting his head over the side, shouted in
-a stentorian voice, through his hand, which he used as a speaking
-trumpet—“Ullitz! Ullitz!”
-
-“Hulloh!” returned a voice from the dark waters, in the unmistakably
-English man-of-war’s fashion—“Hulloh!” repeated the voice.
-
-“Shove alongside here, under the quarter,” said the Parson. “Who have you
-got in the boat along with you? Tom Engelsk for one, I am sure.”
-
-“Only Tom and Torkel; I thought that would be enough,” said a voice from
-the waters below, in remarkably good English, in which the foreign
-accent was scarcely perceptible.
-
-“Quite enough,” said the Parson; “look out there!” as he hove the slack
-of the quarter-boat’s after-tackle fall, which he had been making up into
-coils as he was speaking. “Tell English Tom to shin up that, and come on
-board: it is nothing for an English man-of-war’s man to do, and one of
-you hold on by the rope.”
-
-Tom, active as a cat, and delighted at being spoken of as an English
-man-of-war’s man before so many English people, scrambled up the side and
-stood before them, with his shallow tarpaulin hat in hand, as perfectly
-an English sailor, so far as his habiliments were concerned, as if he had
-dressed after the model of T. P. Cooke.
-
-The man’s real name was Thorsen, and his birthplace the extreme wilds
-of the Tellemark; but having served for five years on board an English
-man-of-war, he had dropped his patronymic, and delighted in the name of
-English Tom; by which, indeed, he was generally known.
-
-“Tom,” said the Parson, “you see to this luggage; count all the parcels;
-see that you have it all safe; pass it through the custom-house, and
-let us see you and it to-morrow morning. And now, he who is for a good
-supper, a smiling hostess, a capital bottle of wine, and clean sheets,
-follow me.”
-
-As he spoke, he dropped his carpet bag over the side which Ullitz caught,
-and disappeared down the rope by which Tom had ascended, followed
-implicitly by his two companions.
-
-“Shove off, Ullitz,” said he, as the Captain sat himself down and poised
-Tom’s oar in his hands, pointing it man-of-war fashion as Tom himself
-would have done, and when Ullitz had got clear of the steamer, seconding
-ably the sturdy strokes of Torkel. In a few moments the boat touched the
-quay of the fish market, and the party sprang on shore with all the glee
-that shore-going people feel when released from the thraldom of a crowded
-vessel.
-
-Ullitz and Torkel remained behind, in order to secure the boat in some
-dark nook best known to themselves; for there were several idlers on the
-fish-market quay, who, except for want of conveyance, would have been at
-that moment unnecessarily adding to the crowd on board, and were not very
-likely to be over-scrupulous about Torkel’s private property.
-
-The three friends, in the meanwhile, in order to extricate themselves
-from two or three groups of drunken men (drunkenness, the Parson
-remarked, was the normal state of Norway, at that time of night), pressed
-forward, and walked ankle-deep through the sandy desert, which, in
-Christiansand, is called a street, the Captain stuffing the little black
-pipe which, as was his wont, he carried in his waistcoat pocket.
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “no one can appreciate a blessing until he has been
-deprived of it. I declare, it is a luxury in itself to be able to go
-where one pleases, after having been cribbed and cabined and confined
-as we have been, and to plant one’s feet on the solid earth once more,
-instead of balancing our steps on a dancing plank.”
-
-“Pretty well, to call this solid earth,” said the Captain; “I should call
-it decidedly marine.”
-
-“Something like the Christiansanders themselves,” said Birger, “who, as
-all the world knows, are neither fish nor flesh, nor good red-herring;
-but I dare say Purgatory would be Paradise to those who arrived at it
-from the other way. Well, what is the matter? what are you stopping
-about?”
-
-These last words were addressed to the Parson, who having been sent
-forward on the previous summer to spy out this Land of Promise, had
-volunteered to act as guide.
-
-“If there is one thing more puzzling than another,” said he, “it is this
-rectangular arrangement of streets. I wish those utilitarian Yankees, who
-claim the invention, had it all to themselves. It is fit only for them.”
-
-“The English of that is, you have lost your way,” said the Captain.
-
-“No, not lost my way,” said the Parson, who piqued himself on his organ
-of locality; “but the fact is, I cannot remember, in the dark, which of
-all these rectangular crossings is the right one. I wish I could see
-that great lump of a church they are so proud of. I say, Birger, knock up
-some one, and ask ‘if Monsieur Tonson lodges there.’”
-
-“Not I,” said Birger. “You are the guide; besides, they must be coming
-ashore, some of them, from the steamer by this time; and, in good truth,
-here are a couple of them.”
-
-This couple, much to their relief, turned out to be Ullitz and Torkel,
-who pointed out the road at once, but looked rather grave at the
-Captain’s pipe, which was now sending forth a bright red glow through the
-darkness, and occasionally illuminating a budding moustache which he was
-cultivating on the strength of being a military man.
-
-Had the acquaintance been of longer standing, they possibly would have
-spoken out; as it was, they contented themselves with a muttered dialogue
-in their own language, in which the Parson soon made out the words,
-“Tobacco” and “Police,” both of which being modern inventions, bear
-nearly the same name in every language in Europe.
-
-“By the by, I had forgotten that,” said he. “Captain, I am sorry to put
-your pipe out; but the fact is, you must not smoke.”
-
-“Not smoke! why not?”
-
-“For fear you should set fire to the town,” said the Parson,—“that is
-all. You need not laugh; the law is very strict about it, I can tell you.”
-
-The Captain did burst out laughing; and, in truth, where they were
-standing, it seemed a ridiculous law enough, though it is pretty general
-both in Norway and Sweden. The street was one of unusual width, being
-one expanse of sand from side to side, and the houses, none of which
-boasted a storey above the ground floor, seemed absurdly distant,—almost
-indistinct in the darkness.
-
-The Captain, however, obediently put his pipe into its receptacle,
-and resumed his route, muttering something about Warner and the long
-range—his estimate of the Norwegian legislative capacity being in no way
-raised by the sight of certain small tubs of very dirty water standing by
-the side of every house door, which the Parson informed him was another
-precaution against fire.
-
-“Whether there really is to be found any one, well authenticated instance
-of a town being set on fire by a pipe of tobacco,” said Birger, “I will
-not take it upon myself to say, nor whether legislating upon pipes and
-leaving kitchen fires to take care of themselves, be not like guarding
-the spigot and forgetting the bung; but the fires here, when they do
-occur, are really awful. You talk in your country of twenty or thirty
-houses as something; we burn a town at a time. Everything here is of
-deal, every bit of this deal is painted, and in a season like this,
-everything you meet with is as dry as tinder, and heated half-way to
-the point of combustion already. Hark to that!” as a sharp, startling
-crack sounded close by them; “that is the wood strained and expanded by
-the roasting heat of a long summer’s day, yielding now to the change of
-temperature; we shall have plenty of these towards morning. Light up but
-one of these little bonfires of houses in a moderate breeze, and see
-how every house in the town will be burning within half-an-hour. Six
-months ago, the capital of my own province, Wenersborg, contained 10,000
-inhabitants, and I believe now the church and the post-house are the only
-two buildings left in it.”
-
-Here Ullitz, who was leading, came to a dead halt before a substantial
-porch containing wood enough to build a ship, from the open door of
-which a bright light was streaming across the street. Taking off his
-hat—every Norwegian is continually taking off his hat to everybody and
-everything—he made a profound bow to the party in general, and with the
-words, “Vær saa artig,” ushered them into the house.
-
-The room into which they entered was long and low, the ceiling supported
-by a mass of timbers like the decks of a ship; every part of it was
-planked with bright deal,—floor, walls, and roof alike,—putting one
-something in mind of the inside of a deal box. It was, however, well
-furnished with birchen tables, birchen sofas chairs and cabinets (for
-birch is a wood that takes a high polish), the whole having rather a
-French look. The floor was uncarpeted, as is the case in almost all
-Norwegian houses, for they have no carpet manufactory of their own, and
-the duty upon English woollens is so enormous that it is impossible
-to import them; but it was strewed with sprigs of green juniper, which
-diffused a pleasant fragrance; and these, in token that the family were
-keeping holiday, were spangled with the yellow heads of the _trollius
-europæus_, which the pretty Marie, the daughter of the house, had been
-gathering all the morning, and had scattered over them in honour of the
-expected guests.
-
-Neither Marie nor her mother could speak one word of English—few of their
-women can—but their deeds spoke for them; for the hospitable board—and
-in this case it was literally a board, placed upon trestles, and removed
-when the supper was over—groaned under the weight of the good cheer.
-There were fish, not only in every variety, but in every variety of
-cookery; there was lobster-soup, and plok fiske, and whiting cakes, and
-long strips of bright red salmon, highly dried in juniper smoke and
-served up raw; enormous bowls of gröd,—a name which signifies everything
-semi-liquid, from rye-stirabout to gooseberry-fool;—with cream, as if
-the whole dairy was paraded at once,—some of it pure, some tinged with
-crimson streaks, from the masses of cranberry jelly that floated about it.
-
-Nor were the liquors forgotten, which, in Norway, at least, are
-considered indispensable to qualify such delicacies. There was the corn
-brandy of the country, diffusing round it a powerful flavour of aniseed,
-without which no meal of any kind takes place; there, too, was French
-brandy, freely partaken of, but so light both in colour and taste, that
-it suggested ideas of a large qualification of water; there was English
-beer, and a light sort of clarety wine, that was drunk in tumblers.
-Madame Ullitz, indeed, presided over a marshalled array of tea-cups, of
-which she was not a little proud, for it is not every house that can
-boast of its tea equipage; but this was as an especial compliment to the
-English strangers. The tea-cups and saucers might be Staffordshire,—they
-had a most English look about them; but the tea was unquestionably of
-native growth, being little else than a decoction of dried strawberry
-leaves, not at all unpleasant, but by no means coming up to English ideas
-of tea.
-
-“Vær saa artig,” said the lady of the house, with an inviting smile and
-a general bow, intimating that supper was ready; and the whole household
-and guests of various degrees, including Torkel the hunter, and Jacob
-the courier, and two or three stout serving-girls, and half-a-dozen
-hangers-on of one sort or other, placed themselves round the table, as
-indiscriminately as the viands upon it.
-
-The house of Ullitz made a feast that day.
-
-“Vær saa artig,” said Marie, handing to the Captain a plate heaped up
-with brown, crisp, crackling whiting cakes.
-
-The Captain did his best to look his thanks as he took the plate. “What
-on earth do they all mean by that eternal ‘Vær saa artig?’” said he to
-the Parson, aside. “I have heard nothing else ever since we dropped
-our anchor. First, I thought it meant ‘Get out of the boat,’ or ‘Go up
-the street,’ or ‘Come in-doors,’ or ‘Sit down to supper,’ or something
-of that sort; but then those drunken porters on board were shoving and
-elbowing one another about with the very same words in their mouths; and,
-now I recollect, this was the very speech Birger made to the Professor on
-the day of the wreck, when he gave him that slippery hitch.”
-
-“In that case,” said the Parson, laughing, “‘vær saa artig’ must mean
-two black eyes and a bloody nose, for that, as you know, is what the
-Professor got by it. But the fact is, ‘Vær saa artig,’ with variations,
-is the general passport throughout all Scandinavia. Some writers ascribe
-a mystic force to the words, ‘Vackere lilla flycka’—pretty little girl;
-and I am sure I am not going to deny the force of flattery. But among
-the natives, certainly, no one ever thinks of telling you what they want
-you to do. ‘Have another slice of beef?’ ‘Come in?’ ‘Take off your hat?’
-‘Take a seat?’ or whatever it is; all that is dumb show, preceded by
-the universal formula, ‘Vær saa artig,’ ‘Be so polite.’ All the rest is
-understood.”
-
-“Vær saa artig,” said Ullitz, unconsciously, from the other end of the
-table, holding up a bottle of claret, from which he had just extracted
-the cork.
-
-“Jag har äran drikka er till,” replied the Parson, who had picked up
-some of the formularies during his former visit. “There,” he said,
-“that is another instance: an Englishman would have said, ‘Take a glass
-of wine,’ in plain English. He holds me a bottle, and tells me to ‘be
-polite.’ My belief is, that when Jack Ketch goes to hang a man in Norway,
-he is not such a brute as to tell him to put his head into the halter; he
-merely holds it up to him, and, with a bow, requests him ‘Att være saa
-artig.’”
-
-“Yes,” said Birger, breaking in, “that is very true; it used to be the
-case; but the Storthing has abolished that piece of politeness, and
-capital punishment along with it. The fact is, the Norwegians are so
-virtuous now, as everybody knows, that they never want hanging.”
-
-This sarcasm, which was spoken in a little louder tone than the
-conversation which preceded it, threatened rather to interfere with
-the harmony of the evening, which it probably would have done had the
-language been generally understood. But the Parson acted as peace-maker.
-
-“Now, Ullitz,” said he, not giving that worthy time to reply, “tell us
-what arrangements you have been making for us. Shall we be able to start
-to-morrow?”
-
-“I have done everything according to the instructions transmitted to me,”
-said Ullitz, speaking like a secretary of state, and with the solemnity
-warranted by the importance of his subject. “There are two boats now
-lying at the bridge quay, with their oars and sails in my porch, and we
-can easily get another for the foreign gentleman” (so Ullitz designated
-his Swedish fellow-countryman—a little trait of Norske nationality
-at which Birger laughed heartily). “As for boat furniture, we have
-everything you can possibly want, in the shop; you have but to choose.
-And as for provisions, we may trust Madame Ullitz for that.”
-
-“Yes,” said the Parson, “I know Madame Ullitz and her provision-baskets
-of old.”
-
-Madame smiled, and looked pleased; making a guess that something was said
-about her, and that that something must be complimentary.
-
-“Then, as for attendants, I made bold to detain this most excellent and
-well-born Gothenburger, Herr Jacob Carlblom”—(with a polite bow to Mr.
-Jacob, returned by a still more polite bow from that illustrious and
-well-born individual). “Herr Jacob is a traveller of some celebrity by
-sea and land”—(the Parson afterwards found out that he was a Gothenborg
-smuggler)—“and would be happy to attend the gentlemen in the capacity of
-courier, cook, interpreter, and commissary, for the remuneration of a
-specie-daler per diem, with his food and travelling expenses.”
-
-“Very well,” said the Parson; “I suppose we must have a cook, so we will
-try your friend Mr. Jacob in our expedition up the Torjedahl, and see
-how we like him. And what says Torkel? are we to have the benefit of his
-experience?”
-
-Torkel looked as if earth could afford no higher pleasure, for, in his
-way, he was a mighty hunter—he was not only great at the Långref,[2] and
-skilled in circumventing the Tjäder[3] in his lek, but he had followed
-the Fjeld Ripa[4] to the very tops of the snowy mountains, had prepared
-many a pitfall for the wolf and fox, and had been more than once in
-personal conflict with the great Bruin himself.
-
-“Torkel shall be my man, then,” said the Parson, who had a pretty good
-eye to his own interest.
-
-“And English Tom, who speaks the language so well, will be just the man
-for the highborn Captain,” said Ullitz.
-
-“Very good,” said the Parson, “so be it; and whenever we have to do with
-lakes and sailing, Tom shall be our admiral, and shall put in practice
-all the science he has learned in the British navy.”
-
-“Tom is as proud of belonging to the English navy, as if it were the
-Legion of Honour,” said Ullitz, whose father had belonged to the French
-faction, and who was rather suspected of holding French politics himself.
-
-“It _is_ the Legion of Honour,” said Birger, “and I give Mr. Tom great
-credit for his sentiments. Well, you must look me out a man, too. This
-will not be so very difficult, as I speak the language pretty well for a
-foreigner.”
-
-In fact, Birger had been practising the language a good deal already,
-and not a little to the Captain’s envy, by making fierce love to the
-daughter of the house; an amusement with which guardsmen, Swedish as well
-as English, do occasionally beguile their leisure moments; and, to the
-Captain’s infinite disgust, Marie did not seem to lend by any means an
-unfavourable ear to his soft speeches.
-
-“Oh,” said Ullitz, “we shall have no difficulty whatever in finding a
-man; if there is anything these people love better than gain, it is
-pleasure, and here we have both combined. My only difficulty lies in
-making the selection. I have reckoned that each of the highborn gentlemen
-will want a boatman besides his own man; but I have engaged these only
-for the trip to Wigeland, as you will no doubt like to change them there
-for men who are acquainted with the upper river; but you can keep them if
-you like, they will be but too happy to go.”
-
-“All right, then, we will start to-morrow afternoon, and get as far as
-Oxea before we sleep. The morning, I suppose, must be devoted to hearing
-Tom’s report from the Custom-house, making our selections for the trip,
-arranging our heavy baggage that we are to leave here, and seeing that
-our outfit is all right. I like to make a short journey the first day, in
-order that if anything is forgotten, it may be sent back for.”
-
-“Not at all a bad general maxim,” said the Captain: “and now to bed;
-for the broad daylight is already putting out the blaze even of Madame
-Ullitz’s candles.”
-
-“With all my heart,” said the Parson, “it is high time;” and rising from
-his seat and going round to where Madame Ullitz sat, he took her hand,
-and bowing low, said, “Tak for mad”—thanks for the meal.
-
-“Vel de bekomme,” said the lady,—well may it agree with you.
-
-In this ceremony he was followed by the whole party, who, shortly after
-separating, sought their respective sleeping-places.
-
-The beds were queer concerns, certainly: beautifully clean, and fragrant
-with all manner of wild herbs; but as unlike the English notion of a bed
-(which in that country is always associated with ideas of a recumbent
-position), as is well possible. A thick, straw mattress, shaped like
-a wedge, occupied the upper half. Upon this were placed two enormous
-pillows, fringed with lace. The rest of the bed was simply a feather-bed
-placed on the ticking, and so much lower, that the sleeper takes his rest
-almost in a sitting position. The whole, including the quilt, was stuffed
-luxuriously, not with feathers, but with the very best eider-down; for
-Madame Ullitz, in her maiden days, had been at least as celebrated a
-beauty as her daughter was now, and unnumbered had been the offerings of
-eider-down made by her hosts of admirers, who had braved wind and wave
-to procure for her that most acceptable of all presents to a Norwegian
-girl—at once the record of her past triumphs, and the glory of her future
-home. The prudent traveller in Norwegian territories will always do
-well, if he has the chance, to choose for his residence the house of a
-_ci-devant_ beauty.
-
-Little, however, did the travellers reck of mattress or feather-bed,
-Madame Ullitz’s past conquests, or her daughter’s present bright eyes—a
-sea-voyage, four or five restless nights, a long day’s work, and a
-plentiful supper at the end of it, equalize all those things; and, though
-the sun was shining brightly through the shutterless and curtainless
-windows, five minutes had not elapsed before it was indifferent to them
-whether they had sunk to rest on eider-down or poplar leaves; or whether
-their beds had been strewed for them by the fair hands of the bright-eyed
-Marie, or by those of the two lumps of girls who had assisted at the
-grand supper.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI.
-
-THE TORJEDAHL.
-
- “Foresight is needful
- To the far traveller:
- Each place seems home to him:
- Least errs the cautious.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-“And now for work,” said the Parson, as, somewhat late on the following
-morning they rose from a breakfast as substantial and plentiful as had
-been the supper of the night before. The ordinary meals of a Norwegian
-are, in fact, three good substantial dinners per diem, with their
-proportionate quantity of strong drink: one at nine or ten, which they
-call “Frökost”; one at two or three, which is termed “Middagsmad”; and
-one in the evening, called “Afton.” But, whatever they call them, the
-fare is precisely the same in all; the same preliminary glass of brandy,
-the same very substantial hot joints, the same quantity of sweetmeats,
-and, at Christiansand at all events, the same liberal supply of fish. Tea
-and coffee are not seen at any of them, but generally form an excuse for
-supernumerary meals an hour or so after the grand ones.
-
-The strangers were not yet acclimated; they lounged over their morning’s
-meal as if the recollections of their yesterday’s supper were yet green
-in their memories. Not so the natives. No one would suppose that they had
-supped at all—they ate as if they had been fasting for a week.
-
-All things, however, come to an end,—even a Norwegian’s breakfast;
-and the Parson stood in the porch receiving English Tom’s report from
-the custom-house, and cataloguing the packages as they arrived. These
-included two dogs; one a very handsome brindled bay retriever, called
-“Grog,” belonging to the Captain; the other an extremely accomplished
-poaching setter, his own friend and constant companion. These, wild with
-joy at their newly regained liberty and restoration to their respective
-masters, from whose society they had been separated during the whole
-voyage, were grievously discomposing the economy of Madame Ullitz’s
-well-ordered house.
-
-A small assortment of necessaries was packed in deal covered baskets
-or boxes,—for they looked as much like the one as the other. This
-manufacture is peculiar to the country, and is equally cheap and
-convenient. These, with the rods, guns, ammunition, and boat furniture,
-including the sails which were to form tents on the occasion, together
-with Madame Ullitz’s liberal supply of provisions (among which the rö
-kovringer were not forgotten), were arranged in the porch, and one by one
-were transferred by the boatmen to the bridge quay, where the boats were
-lying. The weightier articles were consigned to the keeping of Ullitz,
-and were lodged in his ample store rooms.
-
-“Now, Captain,” said the Parson, as they stood on the bank of the noble
-river, “do you take a spare boat and a couple of hands, and pull as far
-as the first rapids; let Torkel be one of them, and he will show you the
-place. There is on the left bank of the river, a sort of rude boat canal,
-which is not always passable. If we can contrive to get through it, we
-will sleep at Oxea to-night: but, if the boats require to be hauled over
-land, we must be satisfied with that for one day’s work, return here to
-sleep, and carry our things over land to-morrow morning. It will take
-me a couple of hours, at the least, to fit these things, but I shall be
-ready for you by the time you return. And, to tell you the truth,” he
-added, in a whisper, “I wish you could take Birger with you. He is doing
-nothing but laugh and joke; and he makes the men so idle, that I shall
-get on twice as well without him. Set him to harl for salmon—anything, to
-get rid of him. It will be of use, too; for if he meet with anything down
-here we may be sure that Wigeland is alive with fish. You will see a reef
-of rocks on the right bank, a quarter of a mile above the town: it is
-not a bad throw—set him to work there.”
-
-Birger was delighted at the idea, and, as the Parson would spare none of
-the boats or boatmen, he took a small praam that belonged to one of the
-men, and prepared to accompany the Captain on his expedition.
-
-Birger certainly was no fisherman: he could but just throw a clumsy
-fly, and had never caught a salmon in his life, or seen one, except at
-table: but harling is a science open to the meanest capacity. It is the
-manner in which cockney sportsmen catch their salmon in the Tweed, and
-consists of traversing and re-traversing the width of the river, with a
-rod and twenty yards of line hanging out of the stern of the boat. The
-fly thus quarters the water backwards and forwards without any exertion
-of the fisherman, and even the salmon that seizes it effectually hooks
-itself before the rod can be taken in hand. On the Tweed, the fisherman
-has actually nothing to do, but to pay his boatmen, who, by choosing
-their own course, perform the very little science which this operation
-requires. In the present case, Birger, having to manage his own boat,
-was far more the artificer of his own fortune; but his success depended
-on his skill, not as a fisherman, but as a boatman—an accomplishment in
-which no Northman is deficient,—rather than on his science and dexterity
-as a fisherman.
-
-As soon as the exploring party had left, the Parson, with his lieutenant
-and interpreter, Tom, and the remaining three boatmen, addressed himself
-seriously to work. Every Norseman is a carpenter; indeed, every Norseman
-may be set down as a Jack-of-all-trades; and under Tom’s interpretership
-they very soon began to understand what was wanted.
-
-Under the starboard gunnel of each boat, and close to the right-hand of
-the sitter, were screwed two copper brackets for the gun, protected by
-a short curtain of waterproof. On the opposite side was a sort of shelf
-or ledge for the spare rods; and in the stern-sheets a locker for books,
-reels, powder-flasks, odds and ends, and, above all, any little store of
-brandy that they had,—an article which it was very dangerous indeed to
-have loose in the boat.
-
-Norwegian boats are built like whale boats, with both ends alike, which
-is not altogether a convenient build for harling—a mode of fishing,
-which, however much to be deprecated in known rivers, is very useful,
-indeed almost indispensable, to explorers. To remedy this, a ring and
-socket was fixed on each quarter of the boat, in order to receive the
-butt of the rod, and to hold it in an upright position when the fishermen
-should be otherwise engaged. Under the thwarts of each boat were
-strapped an axe, a handbill, a hammer, and a bag of nails; and several
-coils of birch rope were stowed forward. Birch rope, which is a Swedish
-manufacture from the tough roots of the birch tree, is peculiarly adapted
-to these purposes, since it has the property of floating on the water,
-which hempen ropes have not.
-
-Upon the principle of “business first and pleasure afterwards,” so long
-as anything remained to be done, the Parson had scarcely raised his eyes
-from his work, or thought of anything else; and so well and so ably had
-he been seconded, that everything was completely fitted, provisions
-brought down and stowed, and all ready for starting, a full half-hour
-before the time specified. His friends were, however, still absent; and
-thus, having nothing to do, he left the men to take care of the boats,
-and lounged across the beautiful bridge that connects the town with the
-opposite shore.
-
-The bridge of Christiansand may well be called beautiful; not, indeed,
-as a piece of architecture, for it is built, like almost everything in
-the country, of wood, though with a solidity that would put to shame
-many of our buildings of far more durable materials. Its beauty lies in
-its situation, spanning as it does with its eleven broad flat arches,
-the clear swift stream of the Torjedahl. The depth was such that ships
-of some burthen were lying on each side of the bridge, the centre
-compartment of which was moveable; but so clear was the water, that
-the very foundations of the piers could be seen as the Parson looked
-over the parapet; and among them a beautiful school of white trout, as
-clearly defined as if they had been swimming in air, which, much to
-his satisfaction, he discerned working their way up from the sea. This
-sight was doubly satisfactory, for he had been ominously shaking his
-head at the peculiar ultra-marine tint of the waters,—a sight in itself
-abundantly beautiful, as any one who has seen the Rhone at Geneva can
-testify, but far from welcome to the eyes of a fisherman, as indicating,
-beyond a doubt, the presence of melted snow.
-
-The Parson had reached the last arch, and was sitting on the parapet, on
-the look-out for the returning boats; admiring in the meanwhile the quiet
-little amphitheatre which forms the last reach of the Torjedahl after
-its exit from its mountain gorge, and scanning the quaint, old-fashioned
-town, with its dark-red wooden houses, overtopped by its heavy cathedral,
-on the tower of which the Lion of Norway, and the Axe of St. Olaf, were
-glittering in the sun; and occasionally peering into the gabled sheds of
-its dockyard, from each of which peeped out the bows of a gun-boat,—that
-formidable flotilla which, during the late wars, had hung on our Baltic
-trade like a swarm of musquitos, perpetually dispersed by our cruisers,
-and as perpetually re-united on some different and unexpected point.
-Beyond this was the island citadel, a place of no strength, indeed, for
-the strength of Norway does not lie in its fortifications, but a point of
-considerable beauty in the eye of an artist. The whole of this picture
-to seaward as well as to landward, was set in by a frame of miniature
-mountains—not hills, nor anything like hills, but real fantastically
-shaped mountains, with peaked heads, some of them showing their bare
-rocks, with little splashes of mica slate sparkling like diamonds, but
-most of them covered with dark fir to their very summits, only shooting
-out occasionally a bare cliff, so arid and so perpendicular that no tree
-could find root on it.
-
-So intently was the Parson gazing on the scene, that it was some time
-before he caught sight of Birger’s praam, which was rapidly approaching
-the place where he was sitting, and some time longer before he made out
-the very uncomfortable position in which his friend was placed. Birger,
-dexterous enough in the management of a boat, even that most ticklish
-of boats, the Norwegian praam—a dexterity which any one will appreciate
-who has ever attempted the navigation of a Welsh coracle, or can picture
-to himself what it is to be at sea in a washing-tub—had proved an apt
-scholar in the science of harling; and the Captain, having seen him make
-two or three traverses without upsetting his boat or entangling his
-flies, had proceeded on his mission and left him to his own devices. The
-boat was hardly out of sight when a heavy fish rose at the fly. Birger
-seized his rod, as he had been directed, but in his agitation forgot
-to secure his paddles, both of which dropped overboard, and, unseen
-and unheeded, set out on an independent cruise of their own,—and thus
-the salmon, of course, had it all his own way. It so happened that he
-headed to seaward, and the light praam offering very little resistance,
-and the stream, which was sweeping stilly and steadily at the rate of
-three or four miles an hour, forwarding him on his way, there was every
-probability of his reaching it.
-
-No sooner had the Parson realised the true state of things, than he
-rushed across the bridge for his boat; but the bridge was by no means a
-short one, and the Parson was at the farthest end; and long before he
-reached it, salmon, Birger, praam, and all had disappeared under one of
-the centre arches.
-
-The boatmen had, of course, lounged away from the quay, probably to the
-nearest brandy shop; but the Parson sprang into a boat, cut the painter,
-seized the paddles, and shoved off furiously into the stream.
-
-Fortunately, this had been seen by the Captain, who was at that moment
-returning; and he, though of course perfectly unaware what was the
-matter, changed his course, and dashed through the nearest arch, in
-pursuit.
-
-By this time the praam was fairly at sea; but the boats were nearing her
-fast, and the Captain, having the advantage of oars, passed the Parson’s
-boat, and then, checking his speed, lest he should capsize the friend he
-meant to aid, grappled the praam with his boat-hook, and, winding his
-own boat at the same time, towed her quietly and steadily to a little
-sandy beach. Upon this, both he and Birger landed. The latter, whose arms
-were aching as only a salmon-fisher’s arms can ache, was glad enough to
-transfer his rod to the Captain.
-
-The Parson calling in vain for a gaff, which implement in the hurry had
-been left in one of the other boats, threw himself into the water, which
-there was not much over his knees. But the salmon, seeing his enemies on
-every side, collected his energies afresh, as that gallant fish will do,
-and rattled off fifty yards of line into the deep blue sea before the
-Captain could turn him. He had, however, a practised hand to deal with.
-Slowly and carefully did the Captain reel him up, guiding him to the spot
-a little above where the Parson was standing as still and motionless as
-the rocks around him. There was as yet a considerable current, arising
-from the flow of the river, and the Captain, taking advantage of this,
-let the fish tail down quietly and inch by inch, to where the Parson was
-standing motionless and stooping so that his hands were already under
-water. Slowly, and without effort, the fish came nearer and nearer, till
-at last, gripping firmly with both hands the thin part just above the
-insertion of the tail, the Parson, half-lifting the fish from the water,
-dragged him to land, and, despite his struggles, threw him gasping on the
-snow-white beach.
-
-“Well done, Birger!” said the Captain, laying his rod against a rock, and
-running down, steelyard in hand; “there is the first fish of the season,
-and you are the prize-man.”
-
-“Hurrah,” said Birger, admiring his own handiwork,—for the steelyard had
-given a full two-and-twenty pounds,—“this is the first salmon I ever
-caught in my life; and upon my word, when I had him, I thought I had got
-hold of Loki himself.”
-
-“And upon my word,” said the Parson, “it looked as if Loki had got hold
-of you; I thought he was taking you off to his own realms. If we had
-not come up, you would have been by this time half way to the Midgard
-Serpent!”[5]
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “it took all the Œsir together to land the
-aboriginal salmon; and, I must say, Thor himself could not have handled
-him better than you did.”
-
-“What is your story?” said the Captain; “sit down there and tell it
-us. You will lose no time,” he added—for Birger, having once tasted
-blood, looked very much as if he wished to be at work again—“you will
-lose no time, I tell you, for I must crimp this fish for our dinners.
-Who can tell if we are to catch another to-day? Parson, lend me your
-crimping-knife; I left mine in the boat.”
-
-The Parson produced from his slip-pocket that formidable weapon,
-called by our transatlantic brethren a bowie knife; and the Captain,
-having first put the fish out of his misery, proceeded to prepare him
-scientifically for the toasting-skewers.
-
-“Now, Birger, for the story. So much I know, that it is something
-about diabolical agency. Loki, I believe, is the Devil of Scandinavian
-mythology.”
-
-“Not exactly,” said Birger; “though we must admit that he and his
-progeny, the Wolf Fenrir and the Midgard Serpent, are the origin of
-evil, and will eventually cause the destruction of the world. But Loki
-really was one of the Œsir, or gods, and had sworn brotherhood with Odin
-himself; and thus, though he often played them mischievous tricks, they
-seem to have associated with him, as one is in the habit of doing with a
-disreputable brother-officer—not exactly liking him, far less approving
-of his ways, but still consorting with him, and permitting him to be a
-participator of their exploits. At last, however, when he had gone so
-far as to misguide poor blind Hodur, so as to make him kill Baldur, they
-determined that this really was too bad. Baldur was a general favourite;
-everything good or beautiful, either in this world or in Asgard, was
-called after him; and the unanimous vote was, that Loki should be brought
-to justice, and made to suffer for this. Loki, however, who rather
-suspected that he had gone too far, himself, was no where to be found. He
-had quitted Asgard in the form of a mist,—whence, I presume, we derive
-the expression ‘to mizzle,’—and had betaken himself to the great fall
-called Fränängars Foss, where he lived by catching salmon;—for Loki, it
-is said, was the first inventor of nets.”
-
-“I have not a doubt of it,” said the Captain. “I always did think that
-those stake nets must have been invented by the Principle of Evil
-himself.”
-
-“Well, so it was, at all events,” said Birger. “Odin, however, one day,
-while sitting upon his Throne of Air, Hlidsjälf, happened to fix his eye
-upon him—I say eye, for you know Odin had but one, having left the other
-in pledge at the Mimir Fountain. No sooner did he see him, than he called
-to Heimdall, the celestial warder, to blow his horn, and summon the gods
-to council at the Well of Urdar.
-
-“Loki, perceiving that something was suspected, burnt his nets, and,
-changing himself into a salmon, took refuge under the fall; so that,
-when the gods arrived at Fränägngar, they found nothing but the ashes
-of the nets. It so happened, however, that the shape of the meshes was
-left perfect in the white ash to which it was burnt, and the god Kvasir,
-who, I presume, must be the god who presides over the detective police of
-Heaven, saw what had happened, and set the gods weaving nets after the
-pattern of the ashes.[6]
-
-“When all was ready, they dragged the river; but Loki placed his head
-under a stone—as that clever fish, the salmon, will do,—and the net
-slipped over his smooth, scaly back. The Œsir felt him shoot through, and
-tried another cast, weighting the net with a spare heap of new shields,
-which the Valkyrir had brought the day before from a battle-field, in
-order to mend the roof of Valhalla. Loki, however, leaped the net this
-time gallantly, and again took refuge under the foss.
-
-“This time the gods dragged down stream; Thor wading in the river behind
-the net. Thor did not mind wading; he was obliged to do that every day
-that he went to council, for the bridge of Bifrost would not bear him. In
-the meanwhile Vidar, the God of Silence, in the form of a seal, cruised
-about at the river’s mouth.
-
-“Loki had thought to go to sea and take refuge with his daughter,
-Jörmungard the Serpent, but, in assuming the form of a salmon, he had
-assumed also, of necessity, the natural antipathies and fears of the
-fish. He turned at a sight so terrible to a salmon, and again sprang
-over the net. But Thor was ready for him, and while he was in the air,
-caught him in his hand, just above the insertion of the tail; and you
-may observe that salmon have never yet recovered from that tremendous
-squeeze, but are finer and thinner at the root of the tail than any fish
-that swims.”
-
-“Well,” said the Captain, “that is quite true; it is a fact that every
-salmon-fisher knows; and he knows also that the root of the tail is the
-only part of the salmon by which it is possible to hold him, and that
-it _is_ possible to hold him by that the Parson showed you just now
-practically. But it is very satisfactory to find out the reason of such
-things, particularly when the reason is such a very good one. What did
-the gods do with Mr. Loki when they had got him; crimp him, and eat him?”
-
-“They could not kill him,” said Birger, “because of the oath of
-brotherhood which Odin had one day incautiously sworn with him (I
-presume, when they were both drunk); so they laid him on his back on
-three pointed rocks in a cave, and bound him with three cords which they
-afterwards transformed into iron bars; and there he will lie, shifting
-himself, every now and then, from side to side, and producing what
-mortals call earthquakes, until that day, known only to the Nornir, when
-the twilight shall fall upon Asgard, and the conflagration of the world
-is at hand.”
-
-“Serve him right, too,” said the Captain; “I am delighted to hear that
-the inventor of salmon-nets perished—like Perillus and other rascals—by
-his own invention. I hope the gods will keep him purgatory, or whatever
-they call it, as long as rivers run toward the sea. However, here is
-our Loki (holding up, by the tail, the scored salmon), and, as we have
-not been geese enough to swear brotherhood with him, he will do for our
-dinner. What shall we do, in the meanwhile, to crimp him?”
-
-“Make him fast to the boat, and tow him a-stern for ten minutes,” said
-the Parson; “the water of the Torjedahl is cold enough to crimp a live
-fish, let alone a dead one. And, I will tell you what: let Torkel go with
-the praam for the other boats, and meet us on the left bank, just above
-the bridge. I want to show you a view of our route to-day that is worth
-seeing.”
-
-So saying, he led the way up a steep, rugged path, just discernible among
-the rocks of the rugged ridge which divides the amphitheatre in which
-Christiansand is situated from the wild coasts of the Fjord; and, passing
-through a sort of natural opening cut in the summit ridge, pointed to the
-scene before them. “There,” said he, “what do you think of that?”
-
-Birger was an artist; and, anxious as he was to begin his career as a
-fisherman, his ever-ready sketchbook was drawn out of his pocket; nor
-did he express a wish to move till the rugged foreground upon which they
-stood, the luxuriant park-like middle distance, with its clumps of trees,
-and dark-red houses, and neat English-looking church, and the background
-of fir-clad mountains, range beyond range, and the deep narrow gorge
-through which their journey lay, which the blue lake-like river seemed to
-fill from side to side, were transferred to the paper.
-
-A few minutes’ walk brought them to where the boats were waiting, with
-the whole house of Ullitz, handmaidens and all, who had come to see them
-off. Hand-shaking all round—the fishermen took their places—the boats
-shoved off—Marie threw after them her kid slipper, for luck, (for that
-custom is of Scandinavian origin)—English Tom gave three cheers, after
-the manner of her Britannic Majesty’s navy—and the expedition started on
-its voyage up the Torjedahl.
-
-The Parson, who was anxious to reach the proposed encampment at Oxea,
-while there was yet light to pitch the tents, would suffer no harling,
-notwithstanding Birger’s remonstrances, until the first rapids had been
-safely passed; and, indeed, with the exception of the single throw where
-the Lieutenant had hooked his fish that morning, that part of the river
-was scarcely worth the trouble.
-
-The rapids, however, which had been surveyed beforehand by the Captain,
-were passed, under his skilful pilotage, in much less time than had been
-allotted for the operation, and then, with one consent, the flies were
-thrown upon the water.
-
-Above the rapids, the river forms what is technically called a “flat;”
-a spot carefully to be sought out by the exploring fisherman, as the
-likeliest to reward his search. A flat is where the water rolls on with
-its acquired velocity and the pressure of that which is behind it, rather
-than on account of any declivity in the bed through which it flows. In
-the present instance, indeed, the bed of the river actually rose instead
-of sinking, for the ridge of rocks which form the head of the rapids, had
-retained the stones and loose earth washed down in the winter floods.
-This gradually shallowed the whole river, spreading it out, at the same
-time, like a lake, so as to fill the level of the valley from mountain
-to mountain. These rose abruptly on either hand, in bare, inaccessible
-cliffs, as if they had been forced asunder by some convulsion of Nature,
-to make room for the rush of waters, and exhibited a bare splintered face
-of rock.
-
-At the end of an hour—for the Parson would allow no more—all fears were
-at an end for that night’s supper; no other salmon, indeed, had risen,
-but trout after trout had been handed into the boats, some of them, too,
-of a very respectable size: even Birger had not been without his share of
-success.
-
-But the stream was strong, the day was waning, many miles intervened
-between them and their camping-ground, the Parson was inexorable; so the
-casting-lines were exchanged for harling-tackle, and the squadron formed
-in order of sailing.
-
-The difference between a common casting-line and the harling-tackle which
-one rod in each boat should carry in every exploring expedition, consists
-principally in the length of the gut. The harling line carries five or
-six flies, in order to show, at once, as great a variety as possible of
-size and colour, and is joined to the reel-line by a swivel, in order to
-prevent it from kinking—while two, or, at the most, three, flies will be
-found quite sufficient for casting.
-
-The order of march was this:—Birger led, with his gun in his hand, ready
-for a stray duck or teal, many of which would whistle over their heads,
-as evening drew on. He was directed to keep, as near as possible, to the
-middle of the stream; while, on either flank, and about twenty yards
-behind him, came his two friends, with one rod in each boat for harling,
-while, with the other, they whipped into the likely ripples. Shooting and
-fishing, however, were made altogether a secondary condition to progress:
-they might catch what they could, and shoot what they could, but the
-rowers were to pull steadily forward.
-
-And thus they opened reach after reach of the beautiful river, for the
-most part pent in by inaccessible cliffs, on which the birch trees seemed
-to grow on each other’s heads, and to support above them all a serrated
-crest of spruce and fir. But, now and then, they would come to little
-semicircular coombs, where the mountain wall would recede for a space,
-leaving flats of twenty or thirty acres, which were carefully cultivated
-to the very water’s brink, and planted at the roots of the mountains with
-white poplar, the dried leaves of which were to serve for beds in the
-summer and hay in the winter. Here would be dark-red wooden houses with
-overhanging eaves, and tidy, compact, little farmsteadings, with their
-granaries, and store-rooms, and cattle-sheds, all complete in themselves:
-and they had need be, for they were completely isolated from the rest
-of the world. There was no road, not even a footpath; no possibility of
-ingress or egress, except that which the river afforded. The mountains,
-except here and there, were inaccessible; and at every turn of the river,
-seemed to beetle over it, shutting out each little amphitheatre from its
-neighbour. The winter is the Torjedahler’s time of liberty: then it is
-that their vehicles are put into requisition; then it is that their corn
-and cattle, if they produce any beyond their own consumption, are brought
-to market; for the river, which has hitherto been their boundary, forms
-now their railroad and frost-constructed channel of communication.
-
-The shadows were darkening on the clear river, and the arms of even
-Norwegian rowers were beginning to ache, when the last point was rounded;
-and the Parson’s joyous shout gave notice that their camping-ground was
-at last reached; and at the welcome signal, the lines were reeled up with
-alacrity, and the boats’ heads were directed to the shore.
-
-The spot had been selected by him and Ullitz the year before, partly as
-lying conveniently near to Mosse Eurd, their proposed head-quarters,
-which it was considered expedient to reach before noon on the morrow,
-in order to afford time for their men hutting themselves and foraging
-out the resources of the place; but principally from its own beauty and
-convenience.
-
-So precious is level land by the banks of the river, that it is rare to
-find any portion of it uncultivated of sufficient extent for such an
-encampment as they required. But here, at the foot of a winter torrent,
-whose dry bed gave access to the uplands in summer, and brought down
-rocks and uprooted trees in the winter, was a rough plain, formed, no
-doubt, originally from the debris brought down by the torrent, but now
-covered with short turf and cranberry-bushes, with a few thick, bushy,
-white poplars, the leaves of which had not yet been stripped for hay;
-while here and there a graceful birch-tree formed a natural tent with its
-weeping branches.
-
-“Tom, bring the sails with you,” said the Captain, who had leaped ashore
-to reconnoitre the ground; “we will have our tent under this rock.”
-
-“Capital place!” said Birger; “and bring the axe with you, Tom, as well:
-that fir will make a first-rate ridge-pole, and it blocks up the place
-where it stands.”
-
-The Captain, not accustomed yet to the trifling value put upon timber,
-hesitated to chop up a very promising young tree,—which, indeed, was
-unnecessarily large for the purpose, and which stood but very little in
-the way, after all.
-
-“Why,” said Birger, “the very best fir-tree that ever grew is not worth a
-specie daler here; and as for that stick——” substituting the action for
-the word, he struck deep into its side, and in a dozen strokes or so it
-came crashing down among the under-stuff.
-
-There was no lack of fuel: there never is in Norway, where outsides of
-timber float down the rivers unheeded; and trees, uprooted by the winter
-storms and land-slips, rot where they fall. Before half the things were
-out of the boats, three or four fires were throwing round their cheerful
-light, some for cooking, some for wantonness, for the evening was
-anything but cold. Birger, however, who, as a Swedish soldier, had had a
-good deal of experience in bivouacking,—an exercise to which they are all
-regularly drilled,—set his own two men to gather and pile fuel enough to
-last through the night; observing that they would all find it cold enough
-before morning, when those scamps had burned up the fuel at hand.
-
-The Captain and the Parson were occupied in collecting and weighing the
-fish, and apportioning them and the other provisions among the men, while
-Jacob, the courier, seated on a stone, apart, was plucking and preparing
-half-a-dozen teal that Birger had shot during the passage. These, to the
-Parson’s surprise, he deliberately cut in pieces, and consigned to the
-great soup-kettle, along with a piece of salt-beef from the harness cask,
-and various condiments which he made a great secret of.
-
-It may be observed that in Norway fresh meat is seldom eaten, unless
-it be on grand occasions, or by those who are well to do in the world.
-October is called in the north the Slaughtering Month, and every family
-there is occupied in salting, not only for winter, but for the rest of
-the year. A harness cask, therefore,—that is to say, a small cask with a
-moveable head, containing salt-beef or pork in pickle,—is a very common
-thing to meet with, and in fact had formed the _pièce de resistance_ of
-Madame Ullitz’s stores.
-
-“Look here, Jacob, my man,” said the Captain; “I will show you a trick in
-cookery that has never reached Gottenborg yet, nor London neither, for
-that matter; it is worth a hogshead of your teal-soup.”
-
-He called to Tom, who had been preparing under his superintendence
-certain square sods of turf, and some long white skewers; which, in
-the absence of arbutus—in Ireland considered indispensable on such
-occasions,—he had been directed to cut from the juniper.
-
-Birger’s salmon, the flakes of which had actually curled under the cold
-of the waters, preserving all their curd between them, was cut into what
-he technically termed fids; each one of these was spread open by the
-skewers and fixed upon the turfs. These the Captain ranged round a great
-heap of hot embers, which he had raked from the fire, and set English Tom
-to turn as they required, basting them pretty freely with salt and water.
-
-The remaining fish had been given to the men, by whom they were subjected
-to a variety of culinary operations; one of which was making soup of
-them; and the fires began to grow bright and cheery in the increasing
-darkness, when Jacob paraded his kettle of teal-soup, and Tom set before
-each of the fishermen a turf of toasted salmon.
-
-In return, they received the men’s rations of brandy, the only part of
-the provisions on which any limitation was affixed. This in Norway,
-perhaps, was considered but a small modicum: it would have been, however,
-quite enough to make twice the number of Englishmen roaring drunk.
-
-The men collected round their fires, looking like so many gipsies;
-provisions were dispatched in enormous quantities, pipes were lighted,
-horns produced and filled with pure brandy, in which each man drank “du”
-with his neighbour,—an ancient Scandinavian ceremony, which entitles
-the drinkers henceforward to address one another in the second person
-singular, and to consider themselves on terms of intimacy.
-
-In the meanwhile, the principal personages of the expedition sat at
-the door of their tent, for which the Captain received his due meed of
-praise, he having brought the canvas. They tempered their brandy with a
-little water, after the custom of their country, and they smoked somewhat
-better tobacco than the Norwegians; but after their kind, they indulged
-in very nearly the same relaxations as their attendants.
-
-And thus fell the shades of night upon the first day of the expedition.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII.
-
-THE ENCAMPMENT MOSSE EURD.
-
- “Our good house is there,
- Though it be humble:
- Each man is master at home.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-“Rouse out, Birger, my boy,” said the Captain; “recollect we have got
-the Rapids of Oxea to pass before we get any breakfast, and that we have
-our breakfast to catch into the bargain. Come, come,” continued he, as
-Birger stretched himself on his Astrakan cloak, as if he was thinking of
-another spell of sleep, “‘shake off dull sloth, and early rise,’ as Dr.
-Watts says—see me rouse out those lazy hounds down there!” And that he
-did, in good earnest, by firing off both barrels within a foot of their
-ears; a salutation responded to by a chorus of yelping from the dogs, who
-imagined, of course, that shooting was begun already.
-
-This had the effect of speedily setting the whole party in motion; and
-Jacob, who, with provident care, had prepared, over-night, a kettle of
-coffee, raked together the embers of the still burning fires, presented
-each with a full horn of it, a very welcome introduction to the day’s
-labour; and then, as wood was plentiful, threw on some logs for a parting
-blaze.
-
-The river itself formed the fishermen’s washing-basin, and the boat’s
-thwarts their toilet-tables. Bitter cold, indeed, was the water; whatever
-the air may be, there is seldom much caloric to spare in the water till
-autumn is pretty well advanced; but, at least, it had the effect of
-thoroughly waking them, and causing them fully to appreciate the luxury
-of the now blazing fires to dress by.
-
-[Illustration: OPENING OF THE CAMPAIGN.
-
-p. 78.]
-
-No one who has any regard for his health should think of going on
-a fishing expedition, however short, without a complete change of
-clothes,—one set for work, and one for dining and sleeping in. No man
-has any business, indeed, on such an expedition at all, who is afraid of
-water; but whether he is afraid or not, he will be sure to be wet, at one
-time or other, during the day. This, while the limbs are in exercise and
-the sun above the horizon, is all well enough; but let no man, however
-hardy he may think himself, sleep habitually in wet clothes, or in
-clothes hastily and imperfectly dried by the camp fire. The very bracing
-of the nerves during the day, which prevents the fisherman from taking
-injury by what would be called imprudence by his stay-at-home friends,
-makes the relaxation and reaction during the night more complete; and
-during that time he is exposed to a host of dangers which vanish before
-the face of the sun. With all his precautions, no man gets up from his
-night’s sleep in the open air without a little stiffness in the limbs for
-the first minute or so, though it may vanish at the first plunge into
-the water of his morning’s ablutions. But without these precautions, he
-is not unlikely to cut short his own expedition by any one of a dozen
-diseases which no amount of animal courage will enable him to bear up
-against, and thus he will be defeating his own object. It is very well to
-bear hardships cheerily when they are unavoidable—cheerfulness itself is
-a preservative. But it is only very young sportsmen indeed, who will seek
-out hardships for the pleasure of undergoing them.
-
-Our fishermen were not young sportsmen, they were men of experience. The
-Parson and the Captain had both of them learned their lesson in Ireland,
-where people soon begin to understand what wet means; and Birger was a
-Swedish soldier, and had learnt these matters professionally. Before
-they started, they had settled the invariable rule of a complete dress
-for dinner, under any circumstances whatever, which implied, of course,
-as complete a dress in the morning: it is necessary almost to bind
-oneself to some such vow, there are so many temptations to break it; in
-Norway especially, where, though the summer days are hot—hotter by many
-degrees than they are in England, and the evenings in the highest degree
-enjoyable, the morning air is generally sharp and bracing, and the water
-which comes down from the snowy ranges bitterly cold.
-
-Jacob, in the meanwhile, whose toilet did not take very long, and who
-rarely occupied himself in any work which did not especially belong to
-his own department, had been parleying with a young fellow, who, roused
-by the Captain’s gun, had pulled across in his boat from the opposite
-side, while the rest of the men were occupied in preparing the boats and
-re-arranging the articles that had been taken on shore the preceding
-evening.
-
-They came up together to where the Parson was standing by the fire,
-busily engaged in exchanging his salmon casting-line for one better
-adapted for trout.
-
-“The young man says that the river is dangy,” said he; for though he
-spoke English well enough, he has his own particular words, which it was
-necessary to make out.
-
-“Dingy,” said the Parson, without any very clear comprehension of what
-was meant, but rather reverting in his mind to the azure transparency of
-the waters; which, in truth, he would gladly have seen a little stained
-by mud. “Well, that is a good job. But I fear he will find himself a
-little mistaken.”
-
-Jacob evidently had not conveyed his meaning: he looked round for Tom or
-Torkel to assist him, but they were both in the boats, working busily
-under the Captain’s orders; so Jacob tried his hand again.
-
-“The young man says that there is a great deal of water in the river from
-the snow. He says that boats are very often sunk at Oxea.”
-
-“Humph!” said the Parson, who began to suspect something.
-
-Here the young man himself broke in with a long story in Norske.
-
-“He says,” interpreted Jacob, “only last week, one boat was upset, and
-two men were drowned.”
-
-“Aye? aye?” said the Parson; “what! sober men?”
-
-Jacob did not see the inference, or would not. “This young man is a
-river-pilot,” said he; “he will take you up for two mark each boat.”
-
-“I tell you what it is, Mr. Jacob,” said the Parson; “I will teach you
-a lesson. When you engaged as our courier, you meant to fleece us all
-pretty handsomely. Well, I have nothing to say against this. As courier,
-it is your undoubted privilege so to do. But remember this, it is equally
-your duty, as courier, to prevent any one else from fleecing us. And
-if I find you only once again failing in that respect, off you go at a
-minute’s notice. Now send your friend home again.”
-
-Without looking behind him, the Parson, who had now finished fitting his
-flies, took his place in his own boat, and, directing Torkel to shove off
-to the other bank, threw his line across the mouth of a small tributary
-to the great river, which he had marked the year before as abounding with
-trout. Jacob looked for a moment inclined to rebel, but no man was more
-alive to his own interests than the ex-smuggler. He had engaged in the
-trip, not like Tom and Torkel, from sheer love of sport and adventure,
-but as a profitable speculation. So, pocketing the affront, much as
-“ancient Pistol” did his leek, he crept down to Birger’s boat, which was
-his place in the line of march, where he sat sulky, but utterly wasting
-his sulkiness; for Birger, anxious to keep up his yesterday’s character
-of a fisherman, was much too intent upon the—to him—difficult manœuvre of
-keeping his flies clear of the oars, to observe whether he was pleased or
-not.
-
-The Captain took the inner line skirting the shore on the right bank, for
-it had been agreed that the flat below the Oxea rapids should be well
-tried, in hopes of getting some fresh fish for breakfast.
-
-Though last in the field, he drew the first blood, hooking and, in a few
-minutes, landing a small salmon, and thus securing a breakfast. And by
-the time the boats came together again, the Parson had brought to bag a
-very fair supply of fjeld öret, or brook trout, from the little streamlet
-he had been trying. And now began the serious business of the day.
-
-Notwithstanding Mr. Jacob’s information, the rapids of Oxea are
-perfectly safe to sober men. It is impossible that an accident can happen
-in them, except from carelessness; for the water, though swift, is
-everywhere deep. The stream falls with some force over a slanting ledge
-of smooth, slaty rock, some three or four hundred yards long or perhaps
-more, and acquires in its slide considerable velocity; but the bottom
-is smooth, and the surface nowhere broken by sunken rocks. The stream,
-therefore, is a steady current, surging up against the numerous islands
-which dot the river, as if they had been pieces of a ruined bridge. Each
-of these was crested with its half-dozen or so of ash or birch, which
-looked as if it was they that were in motion, and not the clear stream
-that was racing past them.
-
-The passage was a sheer trial of strength, requiring no great amount of
-pilotage, or local experience, or even skill. The ropes were got out and
-made fast to two or three thwarts, to take off the strain; the boats were
-lightened of their living incumbrances—except so far as the steersmen
-were concerned,—and were then tracked by main force one by one, every one
-of the party lending a hand, except, indeed, Jacob, who considered it his
-duty, having once said the rapids were dangerous, to act as if he thought
-so, and who had, therefore, been despatched by land to the head of the
-rapid, with orders to light the fires and get the breakfast ready, as
-nothing else could be done with him.
-
-The principal difficulty arose from the uncertainty of the footing among
-the crags, and the gnarled ash-trees that every here and there shot
-almost horizontally from between the fissures of the rock, dipping their
-branches into the stream. These rendered it necessary, every now and
-then, to make fast the boat to the tree itself, and then to float down a
-line to it from some point above the obstacle, for the river fortunately
-ran in a curve at that place. Thus, by giving a broad sheer into the
-stream, while the rest of the party hauled upon the rope, the boat would
-swing clear of the impediment.
-
-But all this was very hard work, and, as the sun was now high in heaven,
-very hot work; and, moreover, it had to be repeated three times before
-all the boats were in safety. Fully as much justice was done to Jacob’s
-breakfast as had been done to his supper on the preceding evening; and
-most luxurious was the hour’s rest which succeeded it.
-
-The remaining part of the voyage was easy: there was a sharp current,
-no doubt, too sharp for anything to speak of to be done with the flies;
-but it was all plain travelling, and, with an occasional help from the
-ropes, before noon their destination had been reached. This was the foot
-of a low fall, or something between a fall and a rapid, called “The Aal
-Foss,” in the middle of which was a picturesque rocky island, covered
-with trees, and on the left bank an equally picturesque peninsula, which
-was destined to be the head-quarters of the expedition, and the basis of
-subsequent operations.
-
-“There,” said the Parson, fixing his rod in the stern-rings, and
-springing on shore as the boat’s keel touched a sandy, slaty beach in the
-isthmus of the peninsula—
-
- “Thus far into the bowels of the land
- Have we marched on without impediment.
-
-Here is the limit of my survey. Thus far have I borne the baton of
-command; and I beg you to observe that we have reached the appointed spot
-twenty minutes before the appointed time.” And he held out his watch in
-proof of it. “I have, as you see, performed my promise; and thus I resign
-the leadership of the expedition.”
-
-“With universal thanks and approbation,” said the Captain; “and I propose
-that now the leadership devolve upon Birger; he is the man of camps and
-bivouacs, for he has experienced what we have only read about.”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “I will not affect modesty. Like others, I have
-passed my degrees, and it would be a great shame if bearing his Majesty’s
-commission, I did not understand what every soldier is taught.” Then,
-suddenly recollecting that the Captain was a military man as well as
-himself, he steered adroitly out of his scrape, continuing, as if his
-concluding paragraph had been part of his original speech—“You have only
-to wait for a war, Captain, and you will be in a situation to give us all
-a lesson. No one understood these things better than your old Peninsula
-men; but Sweden thinks her soldiers ought to learn their business before
-we are called out to fight, and not afterwards.”
-
-To pass the degrees—“gradar,” or rather “gradarne,” for no one ever
-thinks of speaking of them without the definite article “ne,” as if there
-were no other degrees in the world—is anything but a joke in Sweden.
-Military service, so far, at least, as the Guards and the Indelta[7] are
-concerned, is extremely popular. There is ample choice in candidates;
-and very good care is taken that the officers shall be men who know
-their business, and shall not be at a loss in what situation soever
-they may be placed. The “gradar” consists of a series of lectures and
-extremely strict examinations, in everything connected with the service,
-both intellectual or physical, from the construction of an equilateral
-triangle up to the sketch of a campaign, and from the musket drill to
-a year of sea service. Passing out in seamanship is indispensable; for
-Sweden, reversing our principle of hatching ducklings under hens, hatches
-her young death-or-glory cornets and ensigns on board her ships. Properly
-speaking, the Swedish navy has no midshipmen. The cadets, who fill pretty
-numerously the midshipman’s berth, may possibly enter the navy, if they
-are so inclined; but nine-tenths of them are candidates for commissions
-in the army, and are thus learning a lesson which may be of use to them
-hereafter, when they have troops of their own to embark or manage on
-ship-board.
-
-Birger had passed his degrees with credit, or he would not have been
-selected as a travelling student; and his companions were now likely to
-profit by this circumstance, for one of those degrees comprehends all
-these mysteries of camping, and hunting, and cooking, and provisioning,
-and, if scandal may be trusted, a sort of Spartan stealing, which goes
-under the euphemism of “availing one’s self of the resources of the
-country;” these little matters being taught by a three weeks’ actual
-practice in the field every summer.
-
-Birger was altogether in his element. “Now,” said he, “the first thing I
-must do is to borrow all your boatmen, for I shall want every man I can
-lay my hands upon; some for the camps, and some for cutting and drawing
-fuel; I can find something to do for them all, and for more too if I had
-them. And here, you Jacob, take a basket with you, and see what you can
-forage out from the cottages and woods about, in the way of milk, bread,
-butter, berries, and so forth; and hark you, Jacob, no brandy, if you
-please; that is the first thing those scamps always put their hands upon.”
-
-“You have not reckoned us,” said the Captain, “among your effective
-strength; we shall not be of much use in foraging, as we cannot speak
-Norske, but we have hands and heads too.”
-
-“Do not forget how scantily the camp is provisioned,” said Birger; “we
-have not had time or opportunity to catch or shoot anything since we left
-Oxea, where, I am sure, we ate up most of our fresh fish. It will not do
-to be drawing too largely from our supplies.”
-
-“I have no objection, I am sure,” said the Parson; “but you must let us
-have one boat, Birger; even if we are to fish this river from the shore,
-there is half a mile of open space, certainly, between this and the great
-falls of Wigeland; but best throws lie on the right bank, and we really
-must have the power of crossing.”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “I cannot spare you Torkel, that is certain—he
-is much too valuable; take your own boatman; you may halloo out ‘Kom
-öfver elven,[8]’ if you want him, and happen to be on the wrong side;
-and if he cannot hear you, say ‘Skynda paa mid baaten sáa skall du faa
-drikspengar,’[9] and I will warrant he hears fast enough, deaf as he may
-be to the first call. We must have one of the boats above this fall,”
-he continued, musing; “and we may as well do it at once. We will set all
-hands to launch it over this isthmus, before we do anything else, and
-then you can use it for your passage-boat. And now for the camp. Tom,
-Torkel, my own man Peter, my boatman and the Captain’s will be little
-enough for what I have to do, though there are some good hands among
-them, as I saw last night and this morning too at Oxea.”
-
-“We must fish, then,” said the Captain; “for there is no use going about
-after grouse, in this thick forest, without Torkel, or some one that
-knows the place; we should be but wasting our time, poking about these
-trees at hap-hazard.”
-
-“And, I am half-afraid that we shall not do much in fishing either,” said
-the Parson, as they got a sight of the upper reach of the river, which
-lay calm and shining before them. “The sun is as bright as if Odin[10]
-had got his other eye out of pledge, and were shining on us with both at
-once.”
-
-The Captain whistled a few bars of the Canadian Boat Song.
-
-“Yes,” said the Parson, “it is very true, as you whistle, but, though
-the sun be bright, and, though ‘there be not a breath the blue wave to
-curl,’ we must try what we can do. It adds considerably to the interest
-of fishing, when we know that our supper depends upon it.”
-
-“If this were the old Erne,” said the Captain, “we might whistle for our
-supper, in good earnest; but, it must be confessed, that the fish here
-are very innocent; we may deceive one; it is not impossible; for, as Pat
-Gallagher used to say, ‘there are fools everywhere.’ But—look here,” he
-said, as he cast across the stream, “positively, you may see the shadow
-of the line on the bottom, deep as the water is.”
-
-“Let us cross,” said the Parson. “‘Gaa öfver elven,’ as Birger says,
-for I see they have got the boat up: near the great fall there are some
-strong streams that will defy the sun and the calm together.”
-
-Thanks to the innocence of the salmon, which the Captain had hinted at,
-their pot-fishing was not entirely without success: the upper part of
-the reach, where the waters had not yet recovered their serenity after
-undergoing the roar and fury of the great fall, did actually furnish
-them with a graul or two; but the salmon that had arrived at years of
-discretion were very much too cautious to be taken. They had never, it
-is true, been fished for in their lives with anything more delicate than
-a piece of whipcord and a bunch of lobworms, as big as a cricket-ball;
-but, for all that, they were quite old enough to draw an inference, and
-were perfectly aware that natural grasshoppers were not in the habit of
-swimming about with lines tied to their noses.
-
-Towards evening there sprang up a light air of wind, and the rises began
-to be more frequent. The Captain, by making use of Birger’s prescribed
-form of words, had got the boatman to land him on the rocky island which
-divides the Aal Foss into two branches. There, concealed by a stubby fir,
-not quite so high as himself, he was sending out twenty yards of line
-that fell so lightly that it never seemed to touch the water at all.
-
-There is no doubt that, of all the Erne fishermen, it was the Captain who
-threw the longest and the lightest line, and well was the Captain aware
-of that fact: but there is an axiom which “far and fine” fishers would do
-well to bear in mind, and which, though apparently evident to the meanest
-capacity, is very seldom borne in mind by any one; and that is, that it
-is of very little use to fish “far and fine,” when the fish themselves
-are lying, all the while, in the water close under your feet. This was
-precisely the Captain’s position; the waters, divided by the rock on
-which he was standing, were naturally deepest close to the rock itself,
-and, as naturally, the best fish lay in the deepest water. The Captain
-understood this well, but he could not deny himself his length of line,
-and, therefore, contrived to fish the water close to him by raising his
-arms, bringing the point of his rod over his right shoulder, and then
-whisking his flies out for a fresh cast with a dextrous turn of the wrist
-which no man in England but himself could have performed.
-
-“I will tell you what,” said the Parson—who, not having met with much
-success, had stuck up his rod, and had got himself ferried over to the
-island—“it is not very likely that a fish of any size will rise this
-evening, but if such a thing should happen I would not give much for your
-rod.”
-
-“I wish the biggest fish in the river——”
-
-The sentence was never finished, for, at the word, the wish was granted;
-and, if not the biggest fish in the river, certainly the biggest fish
-they had yet seen, rose at the fly when it was not a foot from the rock.
-
-The rod never stood a chance. Raised at a sharp angle over the Captain’s
-shoulder, the whole strain came upon the top-piece, which, as he struck,
-snapped like a flower-stalk, without effort or resistance; and away
-rushed the fish forty or fifty yards up-stream with the top-piece, which
-had run down upon the fly, bobbing against his nose.
-
-The Captain did all that man could do. Carefully did he watch his fish,
-anticipating every movement; instantly did he dip his rod, as the salmon
-sprang madly into air—instantly did he recover it; promptly was the
-line reeled in at the turn; tenderly was it given out at the rush; but
-it was of no avail—the rod had lost its delicate spring; and, despite
-the Captain’s care, every now and then the fish would get a stiff pull
-against the stump, thus gradually enlarging the hold which the hook had
-taken in the skin of the jaw, till, at last, just as the Parson, who had
-been hoping against hope, was taking the cork off the point of his gaff
-and clearing away the brambles to get a good standing place for using
-it, the line came up slack; the hold had given way.
-
-The Parson had the generosity to be silent about his warning that had
-received so immediate a fulfilment.
-
-“Well,” he said, “you have recovered your top; that is something, so many
-miles from Bell Yard; and as for the fish, depend upon it that there are
-more where he came from.”
-
-The Captain mused a little. With the exception of Birger’s chance-medley,
-they had not seen a full-grown salmon[11] since they had come upon
-the river, and the loss was no light one. “I suppose,” he said,
-interrogatively, “it would be hardly worth while to fetch another top
-from the camp?”
-
-“Not at all worth while,” said the Parson; “the wonder is, that you rose
-one full-mouthed fish on such a day as this. You are not going to rise
-another. Besides,” he added, “look at the sun! It is time for us to think
-of cooking, rather than catching. Birger will be wondering what is become
-of us.”
-
-They were at no great distance from the camp, which, to their surprise,
-they found tenanted by Jacob alone, who, having got over his morning
-sulks, was busy in what he called a Långref, a miniature variety of which
-is not altogether unknown to our Hampshire poachers; but Jacob’s was a
-tremendous affair, more like what in sea-fishing is called a spillet or
-bolter, consisting of three or four hundred yards of water cord, and half
-as many hooks.
-
-“Halloo,” said the Captain; “what has become of them all? Why, Jacob,
-where is Lieutenant Birger?”
-
-“He is gone with the men to make an offering to Nyssen,” said Jacob.
-
-“Who the devil is Nyssen?” said the Captain.
-
-Jacob looked distressed. It is not lucky to mention the mundane spirits
-and those of hell in the same sentence; in fact, the less people
-talk about either of them the better, so, at least, the Swedes think,
-and therefore imprecate their curses by saying, “The Thousand take
-you,” leaving it for your own conscience to determine whether they are
-consigning you to saints or devils.
-
-“There they are, you may see them yourself,” replied he, evading the
-question, and pointing to a bare rounded rock which rose above the wooded
-summits about a mile down the river.
-
-The Parson’s telescope was in his hand in a moment; but all he could make
-out was, that they put something on the ground which they left there,
-and immediately entered the thick wood, which hid them from his sight.
-Jacob could not, or at all events would not, satisfy their curiosity, and
-they had nothing for it but to amuse themselves with admiring Birger’s
-handy-work, till that individual on his return should make his own report
-of himself.
-
-And really the Lieutenant would have extorted praise from the head of the
-Kong’s-öfver-commandant’s-Expedition himself, so well and so orderly was
-the encampment made.
-
-The sails were formed into three several tents, not very large ones,
-certainly, and scarcely admitting of the inmates sitting upright, except
-in the centre, but quite sufficient to shelter a man lying at full
-length. At the back of these, where the ground rose a little, a neat
-trench was cut, in order to carry off the drainings of any unforeseen
-shower. These were the sleeping tents; and in front of them were spread
-out a quantity of poplar leaves, which were eventually to form the beds,
-and which were then pretty rapidly undergoing the process of desiccation
-in the hot and bright sunshine which had hitherto been so unfriendly.
-A birch trimmed in its weeping branches, and thickened above with a
-few supplementary boughs of spruce-fir, was evidently arranged for the
-dining-room, and several of the stores were gathered round its trunk
-and thatched with fir-branches, while at some distance below, and not
-far from the sandy beach, stood three or four neat green huts, built
-with a framework of fir-poles, and thatched closely, both in roof and
-walls, with the upper branches of the trees that had been cut down for
-the frame. Not far from where Jacob was sitting over his långref, there
-was an elaborate kitchen, built of rough stones against a natural rock,
-with a cross-beam on the top to swing the kettle from, and beside it
-rose a goodly pile of fuel, cut into lengths, and stacked into what is
-called in the country fathoms, that is to say, square piles, six feet
-long and three high. This had evidently been their last work, for the
-axes and saws were still lying on the unfinished pile. By the river’s
-bank at the edge of the peninsula was a curious erection, which Jacob
-called the smoking-house. It was a pyramid constructed of outsides of
-deals, hundreds of which, rejected from the saw-mills, were floating
-about unheeded in the river, and drifting into every corner that was
-sheltered from the current. This was by no means a place constructed for
-the luxury of smoking tobacco, an amusement in which every individual of
-the party indulged in every possible place and in all places alike. It
-was erected for hanging up superfluous salmon which had previously been
-slightly salted, in order, with the help of smoke from the green juniper,
-to convert them into what in London is called “kipper.”
-
-There was little use for it that evening, however, for the grauls brought
-in by the fishermen would have been but scanty allowance, even for the
-present supper, had they not been helped out by other provisions. But
-Jacob had by no means been idle in his vocation. On a shelf of rock not
-very far from the kitchen, and shaded by a friendly tree, stood gallons
-of milk and piles of flad bröd, with a few raspberries, which were just
-then ripening, and an actual little mountain of strawberries, for the
-woods were carpetted with their bright green leaves and scarlet berries.
-
-Jacob, as was his duty, rolled up his långref as quickly as such a
-combination of tackle could be stowed away, and commenced preparing the
-fish for dinner, while the fishermen changed their clothes, and hung them
-to dry round a supplementary fire which had been lighted for the purpose.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII.
-
-MAKING A NIGHT OF IT.
-
- “Ale’s not so good
- For the children of men
- As people have boasted;
- For less and less,
- As more he drinketh,
- Knows man himself.
-
- The kern of forgetfulness
- Sits on the drunken
- And steals the man’s senses,—
- By the bird’s pinions
- Fettered I lay
- In Gunlada’s dwelling.
-
- Drunken I lay,
- Lay thoroughly drunken,
- With Fjalar the wise.
- This is the best of drink,
- That every one afterwards
- Comes to his senses.”
-
- _High Song of Odin the Old._
-
-
-Many minutes had not expired, during which brief space the fishermen had
-been luxuriating in their dry clothes, when the boats were seen working
-their way back across the tail of the Aal Foss rapid, as they returned
-with the party from the right bank, which, after bobbing about on the
-ripples and cross currents, shot into their little harbour beneath the
-encampment.
-
-Birger came up the bank, half-laughing, yet looking as if he had been
-doing something he was ashamed of.
-
-“Where the deuce have you been, Birger?” said the Captain, as that worthy
-threw himself on the turf under the birch-tree: “Jacob says you have been
-sacrificing to Nyssen, whoever he is.”
-
-“So I have,” said Birger; “but don’t speak so loud. I will tell you all
-about it.”
-
-“Not speak so loud,” said the Captain; “why not?”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, rather hesitatingly, “Nyssen does not like to be
-spoken of. That is to say, the men don’t exactly like to hear people
-speaking of him, at least by name, if it is above the breath.”
-
-“Come, come, Birger, be honest,” said the Parson.
-
-“Well, if you must have it, I do not quite like it myself. I do not
-believe in such things, of course; but there is no good in doing what
-everybody thinks unlucky.”
-
-“Well, well,” said the Captain, “but tell us what you have been about. I
-am quite in the dark as yet about this mysterious gentleman or lady.”
-
-“Why, the Nyss,” said Birger, sinking his voice at the word to a whisper,
-“is a spirit of the air, just as the Neck (a similar whisper) is a spirit
-of the water.”
-
-“The very familiars of the Lady of Branksome,” said the Parson:—
-
- It was the Spirit of the Flood,
- And he spoke to the Spirit of the Fell.
-
-“Very likely, but our spirits, like our people, are not indifferent to
-the pleasures of eating and drinking; and therefore, whenever we start on
-an expedition, we propitiate them with an offering.”
-
-“And the offering consists of——?”
-
-“What we like best ourselves, cakes and ale.”
-
-“But what had you to do with it,” said the Captain; “I suppose you do not
-believe in spirits?”
-
-“The men asked leave to go, when they had done their work, and wanted me
-to go with them, to that high rock you see down there,—for they always
-choose out some bare and elevated locality, as best adapted to a spirit
-of the air; and so—well, I went with them; don’t laugh at me.”
-
-“That will I not,” said the Parson; “you could not have done a wiser
-thing. Always fall in with men’s superstitions; there is nothing that
-attaches them so much as humouring their little illegitimate beliefs; to
-say nothing,” he added slily, “of believing a little in them yourself.”
-
-“How is this offering made?” said the Captain: “what are the rites
-belonging to the worship of a spirit of the air?”
-
-“They are simple enough,” said Birger, “and not at all like those you
-would see on the stage of London,—no blue fires or poetical incantations:
-they consist in simply placing the cake on the most exposed pinnacle you
-can find, pouring the ale into the nearest hollow that will hold it, and
-then retreating in silence, and without looking behind you.”
-
-“While some thirsty soul, after the manner of Bel in the Apocrypha, plays
-Nyssen and accepts the offering,” said the Captain.
-
-“What! eat Nyssen’s offering! Tom, what do you say to that?”—for the
-men were still fidgetting about the fire,—“what do you say to that? The
-Captain thinks that one of you will eat up Nyssen’s cake; what do you say
-about it?”
-
-“Well,” said Tom, “we have bold men in Norway, as all our histories will
-tell you; but bold as we are, I do not think you will get a man in the
-whole country to do that.”
-
-“There was a young fellow once who did it in my country though,” said
-Jacob, “and dearly he paid for it. The family used to place the yearly
-gifts to Nyssen under the sails of their windmill every Christmas
-Eve;—you Norwegians do not know what windmills are; you grind all your
-corn by water, poor devils!”
-
-Here Tom and Torkel, both Tellemarken men, broke in simultaneously; the
-one swearing that, in the Tellemark, windmills were as plenty as fir
-trees; the other vociferating, somewhat incongruously, that no nation
-two degrees from actual barbarism could ever think of such a piece of
-machinery at all.
-
-Birger stilled their national animosities by wishing “The Thousand” would
-take them all three, and their windmills into the bargain, and Jacob went
-on with his story.
-
-“The eldest son,” he said, “was a sad unbeliever; he had been a very good
-boy as long as he had lived with his father and mother at Lerum, but
-when he grew up he had gone to Copenhagen and got corrupted; for, as his
-honour Lieutenant Birger knows, they are all sad infidels at Copenhagen.”
-Here was likely to be another outbreak; for the Danes, though it is quite
-true that a great many of them are not only sceptics in fairy mythology
-but in religion also, are yet vehemently regretted by the Norwegians, who
-were in no ways pleased with that act of the Congress of Vienna which
-separated them from Denmark; a fact which our friend Jacob was perfectly
-aware of.
-
-Peace was again effected by a vigorous kick from his fellow-countrymen,
-together with some observations respecting a donkey in a state of eternal
-condemnation; and Jacob went on as if nothing particular had happened.
-
-“Well,” said he, “the young man found that the best ale and sweetest
-cake were always given to Nyssen, so he slipped out and gobbled them
-up himself. During the whole year that followed that Christmas, no
-great harm came of it, only there was always something wrong about the
-windmill; now a sail blown away, now a cog broken; there was plenty
-of grist, trade was lively enough, it was always something to do with
-the wind, and, as far as that was concerned, nothing went right. Still
-no one suspected the reason, till Christmas Eve came round again, and
-another sweet cake and another bottle of strong ale were placed under
-the mill for Nyssen. The night was as still and as quiet as this evening
-is,—quieter if possible; there was not a breath of wind, and the snow
-looked like a winding-sheet in the moonlight. Well, the young man slipped
-out again; but scarcely had he stooped to pick up the bottle, when a
-furious gust of wind arose, scattering the snow like flour out of a sack;
-the sails flew round as if they were mad; it was said that a figure in
-a pointed cap and a red jacket sat astride on the axle, and one of the
-sails taking the young man on the side of the head, threw him as far as I
-could fling a stone. He sank into the snow, which closed over him, and no
-one knew what had become of him till the thaw came on. It was very late
-that year, for the ground was not clear till Walpurgis’ Night, and then
-they found him, and Nyssen’s broken bottle still in his hand. It was by
-that they found out how it had happened. I would not be the man to touch
-anything belonging to Nyssen.”
-
-“Nor I neither,” chimed in the two Norsemen.
-
-“Johnstone and Maxwell both agree for once,” said the Parson, laughing;
-“and I will tell you another thing, neither would I. But now, Mr. Jacob,
-that we have done everything that can be expected of us by the spirits
-of the air, who, I hope, in common gratitude, will give us fishermen a
-cloudy sky and a little bit of a breeze to-morrow, I must say I should
-like to take my turn at the cakes and ale; so let us have whatever you
-have got in your big pot there, and bring us a bucket of strawberries and
-cream for dessert.”
-
-The dinner was by no means so elaborate an affair as that of yesterday;
-this was occasioned, in some measure, by their want of sport, but,
-principally, because all had been far too much engaged in the necessary
-business of the camp to think much of eating. The solids, such as they
-were, that is to say, beef and pork, out of the harness cask, were
-soon despatched, and the huge camp kettle, one of the old-fashioned
-ante-Wellingtonian affairs, as big as a mortar, and nearly as heavy,
-was sent down to the men, while the fishermen lounged at full length
-on the turf, enjoying their rest over Jacob’s plentiful provision of
-strawberries and cream.
-
-Fénélon has, somewhere or other, a fable about a man who had the power
-of procuring, “_pour son argent_,” as the good Bishop says, half-a-dozen
-men’s appetites and digestions. The man does not seem, in the fable, to
-have made a very good use of his extraordinary powers, or to have derived
-any extraordinary pleasure from them. If he had only come out campaigning
-in Norway, he might have had his five appetites for nothing, and been
-much the better for them all.
-
-Meanwhile, the lower table did not at all seem to be in want of an
-appetite; the kettle was emptied, and whole heaps of flad-bröd, sour as
-verdjuice, and pots of butter, such as no nose or stomach, out of Norway,
-could tolerate, were fast disappearing beneath the unceasing attacks
-of seven gluttonous Scandinavians—while, as the twilight darkened, and
-diminished the restraint they might possibly have felt at the presence
-of their superiors, the noise grew louder and louder. Jacob began some
-interminable ballad about the sorrows and trials of little Kirstin, a
-very beautiful lady, who went through all sorts of misfortunes, and did
-not seem a “bit better than she should be;” but that goes for nothing
-at all in Swedish song, and very little in Swedish life. This he sang,
-chorus and all, to his own share. It seemed to affect the worthy man very
-little, that he was almost his own audience; no one seemed to attend
-him, but his song went on, stanza after stanza, uninterruptedly, forming
-a sort of running accompaniment to the shouts and screams of “Gammle
-Norgé,” “Wackere Lota, or, Kari,” which startled the echoes alternately,
-according as love, or patriotism, was the prevailing sentiment.
-
-At last, they began drinking healths—“Skaal Herr Carblom,” “Skaal for
-the well-born singer;” for, like the old Spanish nobility, though they
-addressed one another as Tom, Piersen, and so forth, they always gave the
-interloper his full title.
-
-“Jeg takker de,” said Jacob, solemnly, without, however, pausing for one
-moment in his song.
-
- “Little Kirstin, she came to the bridal hall,—
- We will begin with the wooing,—
- And a little page answered to her call,
- My best beloved, I ne’er can forget you”—
-
-Here broke in Tom, beating time to his music with a horn which he had
-replenished to the very brim, and of which he was imparting the contents
-very liberally to the turf round him—
-
- “Wet your clay, Andy!
- Out with the brandy!
- We live in jolly way,—
- Here’s to you, night or day!
- Look at sister Kajsa Stina,
- See her bottles bright and clear-ah!
- Take the horn, good fellow! grin-ah!
- Grin and swill and drink like me!”
-
-Jacob’s voice was again audible—
-
- “She tied her horse in the garden there:
- We will begin with the wooing”—
-
-“Skaal Thorsen! skaal Tom Engelsk! skaal for the British navy!”
-
-“Rule, Britannia!” shouted Tom. Jacob went on—
-
- “We will begin with the wooing:
- She brushed and—”
-
-Here a general chorus—
-
- “To the brim, young men! fill it up! fill again!
- Drain! drain, young men!—’tis to Norway you drain.
- Your fathers have sown it,
- Your fields they have grown it;
- Then quaff it, young men! for he’ll be the strongest
- Who drinks of it deepest and sits at it longest.”
-
-Jacob’s voice became audible, like a symphony, between the verses—
-
- “She brushed and combed her golden hair,”—
-
-when again rose up the wild chorus, overwhelming it under the volume of
-sound:
-
- “To the brim, old men! fill it up! fill again!
- Drain! drain, old men!—’tis to Norway you drain.
- There’s health in the cup,—
- Fill it up! fill it up!
- And quaff it, old men! for he’ll live the longest
- Who drinks of it deepest and likes it the strongest.”
-
-“By the Harp of Bragi,” said Birger, “I’ll back old Jacob against the
-field,—that fellow has such bottom!” for the honest toper’s voice came
-again dreamily up the hill where they were sitting, during the pause that
-followed this outburst.
-
- “Little Kirstin then passed out from the door,—
- We had best begin with the wooing:
- She said, I shall hither come no more,—
- My best beloved! I never will forget thee.
-
- Forth she went to the garden there,—
- We had best begin with the wooing:
- She hung herself with her golden hair,—
- My best beloved! I never can forget thee.”
-
-“Skaal for Birger! skaal for the brave Lieutenant! skaal for the royal
-guard!” shouted one, waxing more bold as the night drew on.
-
-“Gammle Norgé!” screamed back an opponent, and immediately Torkel burst
-out, with his fine bass voice, into the national song, drowning entirely
-poor Jacob’s melancholy ditty, which never got much beyond the wooing
-after all.
-
- “The hardy Norseman’s house of yore
- Was on the foaming wave,
- And there he gathered bright renown—
- The bravest of the brave.
- O, ne’er should we forget our sires,
- Wherever we may be;
- For they did win a gallant name,
- And ruled the stormy sea.
-
- What though our hands be weaker now
- Than they were wont to be
- When boldly forth our fathers sailed
- And conquered Normandy?
- We still may sing their deeds of fame,
- In thrilling harmony;
- They won FOR US that gallant name,
- Ruling the stormy sea!”—
-
-Enthusiasm was at its height, as the full chorus thundered forth from all
-the voices—
-
- “Never will we forget our sires,
- Wherever we may be;
- They won for us that gallant name,
- Ruling the stormy sea!”
-
-Whether Jacob joined in it, or persevered in the sorrows of little
-Kirstin, it is impossible to say; but the loud-ringing alto of Birger
-came in tellingly from the house of the Nobles, accompanied by the
-bass of his two friends. The compliment was taken at once, “Skaal for
-the high-born Fishermen!” “Skaal for the noble gentlemen!” “Skaal for
-Vict_ou_ria!” “Skaal for Carl Johann!” “Skaal for England!”
-
-“Skaal for Sweden,” shouted Jacob at last.
-
-“Gammle Norgé! Gammle Norgé! Sweden and Norway!—Sweden and Norway for
-ever! Skaal! Skaal!”
-
-“Upon my word,” said the Parson, “some one must have been shelling out in
-good earnest. There goes something stronger than water to all that noise.”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “it is very true: they did their work this afternoon
-like men, and then, instead of going and buying brandy, and making beasts
-of themselves, they very properly sent Torkel as spokesman to me, and
-asked my permission to get drunk, which, as they had behaved so well, of
-course I granted them, and gave them five or six orts to buy brandy with.”
-
-The Parson burst out laughing: “Well, Birger, it is very kind of you, to
-save them from making beasts of themselves: rather a novel way of doing
-it, though.”
-
-“O, it is all right,” said Birger; “that is the way we always do in my
-country, we get it over at once: they will be as sober as judges after
-this—if we had not indulged them when they knew they had deserved it,
-they would always have been hankering after brandy, and dropping off
-drunk when they were most wanted: they will be as sober as judges after
-this, I tell you,” he reiterated, observing a slight smile of incredulity
-on the faces of both his companions.
-
-“I do not feel quite so confident of their being as sober as judges
-to-morrow, as I do about their being as drunk as pigs to-night,” said the
-Captain; “though, to be sure, I do not know what judges are in Norway;
-but it does seem to me that five or six orts[12] are rather a liberal
-allowance, in a country where one can get roaring drunk for half-a-dozen
-skillings.”
-
-“That is just the very thing I do not want them to do,” said Birger.
-“Whenever a Norseman gets roaring drunk, he is sure to kick up a row: it
-is very much better that they should get beastly drunk at once; then they
-go to sleep and sleep it off, and no one the wiser.”
-
-“I should have thought, though,” said the Captain, “that you gave them
-quite enough for that, and a good remainder for another day into the
-bargain.”
-
-“It is little you know of the Norwegian, then,” said Birger, “or, for the
-matter of that, of the Swede either: he is not the man to make two bites
-of a cherry, or to leave his brandy in the bottom of the keg. Besides,
-they will consider themselves upon honour. They asked my leave to get
-drunk on this particular night, and I gave them the money to do it with;
-it would be absolute swindling, to get drunk with my money on any other
-occasion.”
-
-“Upon my word,” said the Captain, “this a terrible drawback to your
-beautiful country. Our fellows in Ireland used to get drunk now and then,
-to be sure, but they had always the grace to be ashamed of it. These
-scoundrels do it in such a business-like way.”
-
-“Your countryman, Laing, sets that down to the score of our virtues,”
-said Birger. “He considers it much better to act upon principle, like our
-people, than to yield to temptation, as your English and Irish sots do. I
-must say, though, that he is not half so indulgent to us poor Swedes.”
-
-“My countryman, Laing,” said the Parson, “though a very observant
-traveller, is, also, a very extreme republican and a very prejudiced
-writer. He gives us facts in monarchical Sweden, as well as in republican
-Norway, and he gives them as he sees them, no doubt; but, he looks at the
-two countries through glasses of different tints. Now, my idea is, that,
-in point of drunkenness, there is not a pin to choose.”
-
-“Yes, but there is, though,” said Birger. “The Norwegian is quarrelsome
-in his cups; and you will seldom find that in any part of Sweden, unless
-in Scånia, and the Scånians are half Danes yet. I had the precaution to
-take away those gentlemen’s knives when I gave them the money for their
-brandy (and, I must admit, they gave them up with very good grace),
-or, the chances are, that we should have lost the services of that ass
-Jacob, and given a job for the Landamptman to-morrow. Why, half the
-party-coloured gentlemen in the castle at Christiania have earned their
-iron decorations in some drunken brawl or other.”[13]
-
-“Well, that may be,” said the Parson. “I have not experienced enough to
-gainsay you; but you must admit that as far as simple drinking goes, the
-two nations have the organ of drunkenness pretty equally developed.”
-
-“I should think it must be a barrel organ, then,” said the Captain, “if
-we are to judge by the quantity it contains.”
-
-“Thank your stars it has got a good many stops in it. The Scandinavian
-does not drink irregularly, like your people whom you can never reckon
-upon for two days together. He has his days of solemn drunkenness—some of
-them political, such as the coronation; or the king’s name day; or, here,
-in Norway, the signing of their cursed constitution. Some of them, again,
-are religious—such as Christmas, and Easter, and Whitsuntide: these are
-days in which all Scandinavia gets drunk as one man. And there are a few
-little domestic anniversaries besides—such as christenings and weddings;
-but, this is all, except a chance affair, like this; so that, by a glance
-at the calendar, and a little inquiry into a man’s private history, you
-may always know when to find him sober, and fit for work.”
-
-“Sober, meaning three or four glasses of brandy?” said the Parson.
-
-“Yes,” said Birger. “He seldom goes beyond that, on ordinary days; and,
-therefore, on festivals like this, I think him very well entitled to make
-up for it.”
-
-“I think, though,” said the Parson, “when I was in Sweden, last year, I
-did see such things as stocks for drunkards, at some of the church doors.”
-
-“Yes, you did, at all of them; but, you never saw any one in them. How is
-a mayor to order a man into the stocks, for drunkenness, when the chances
-are, that he was just as drunk himself on the very same occasion?”
-
-“How do you account for this universal system of drinking spirits?” said
-the Captain.
-
-“It is easy enough to account for it,” said the Parson; for Birger rather
-shirked the question. “Every landed proprietor has a right to a private
-still; the duty is a farthing a gallon, carriage is difficult, and brandy
-is much more portable than corn. Will not this account for some of it?
-I do not happen to know what may be the return for Sweden; but, for
-Norway, it is somewhat over five million gallons a-year, in a country
-which does not grow nearly enough of corn to support itself; and this,
-as the population does not come up to a million and a-half, gives three
-and a-half gallons per Christian, to every man, woman, and child, in the
-country.”
-
-“Come, come,” said Birger, “if you go to statistics, look at home. Your
-Mr. Hume moved, last session, for a return of all the men that had
-been picked up, drunk, in the course of the preceding year; and, in
-Glasgow alone, there were nearly fifteen thousand—that is to say, one
-out of every twenty-two of the whole population. Do not talk to us of
-drunkenness. Did you ever hear of the controversy between the pot and the
-kettle?”
-
-“The Scotch are no more our countrymen, than the Norwegians are yours,”
-said the Parson; “and, if I recollect right, that very return gave no
-more than one in every six hundred, picked up, drunk, in our Manchester;
-and Manchester is not what we call a moral place, either.”[14]
-
-“In that very place, Glasgow,” said the Captain, “where, for my sins, I
-was quartered last year, I was actually taken up before the magistrates,
-and fined five shillings, for what the hypocritical sinners call
-‘whustling on the Saubboth,’ and it was only Saturday night, either—the
-rascally Jews! They are fellows to
-
- Compound for sins they are inclined to
- By damning those they have no mind to.
-
-The scoundrels couldn’t whistle a tune themselves on any day of the week,
-‘were it their neck verse at Hairibee;’ they have no notion of music,
-beyond the bagpipe and the Scotch fiddle.”
-
-“Five shillings?” said the Parson, musingly; “that is just the sum they
-fine people, in London, for being drunk and disorderly.”
-
-“Then, in all human probability, the Captain made one individual item in
-Mr. Hume’s fifteen thousand himself.”
-
-“Very possibly,” said the Captain. “It was Saturday night, and I will not
-say I might not have been a little screwed. When one is in Turkey one
-must live as turkeys live.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “I believe all northern nations have a
-natural turn for drunkenness, but laws and regulations may increase or
-diminish the amount of it; and the laws of both these countries tend
-most particularly to increase it. With you it is a regular case of
-‘Drunkenness made easy.’ Besides, public opinion sets that way too. If
-I were suspected of anything approaching to the state of our friends
-down below, I never could face my parish again. Your parish priest might
-be carried home and tucked into bed by a dozen of his faithful and
-hard-headed parishioners on Saturday night, and if the thing did not come
-round too often, would get up not a pin the worse on Sunday morning,
-either in health or in reputation.”
-
-“I think,” said the Captain, “public presents are a very fair test of
-public propensities. In the snuffy days of the last century and the
-beginning of this, every public character, from the Duke of Wellington
-down to William Cobbett, had the freedoms of all sorts of things
-given them in golden snuff-boxes. Now, look at your people. When your
-king paid a visit to the University of Upsala, the most appropriate
-present he could think of making to that learned body, was an ancient
-drinking-horn,—of course, by way of encouraging the national tastes.
-And when he made a pilgrimage to the tomb of Odin and Freya, the most
-appropriate present which that learned body could make to him in their
-turn, was another ancient drinking-horn, which had the additional value
-of having once been the property of those heroic, but, if there is any
-truth in Sagas, exceedingly drunken divinities.”
-
-“Well, well,” said Birger, good-humouredly (and it must be said that his
-was a case of good-humour under difficulties), “every nation has its own
-national sins to answer for, and it is no use for me to deny that ours is
-drunkenness. But what else can you expect from a people whose ideal of
-the joys of heaven used to be fighting all day, and after a huge dinner
-of boiled pork, getting beastly drunk upon beer? Gangler, in the prose
-Edda, asks Har, ‘How do your Heroes pass their time in Valhalla when
-they are not drinking?’ And Har replies, ‘Every day, as soon as they
-have dressed themselves, they ride out into the court, and fight till
-they cut each other in pieces. This is their pastime; but when meal-time
-approaches, they return to drink in Valhalla.’ Or, if you will have the
-same in verse, this is what the Vafthrudnis Mal says:—
-
- The Einherjir all,
- On Odin’s plain,
- Hew daily each other
- While chosen the slain are;
- From the fray they then ride,
- And drink ale with the Œsir.”
-
-“After all,” said the Parson, “this is nothing more than a ghostly
-tournament; and I have no doubt but that the haughty tournaments of the
-middle ages, if deprived of their mediæval gilding, would be very like
-the hewings, ale swillings, and pork banquetings of the Einherjir. I
-hope, though, that they brewed good ale in Asgard.”
-
-“I dare say,” said the Captain, “that, after their carousal, they wanted
-a little sleep to fit them for the toils of the next day; I am sure I do,
-and I vote we try what sort of couches Birger has prepared for us. Our
-once merry friends below seem to be as fast asleep as swine now, and as
-quiet. To tell you the truth, I am a little tired with our day’s work,
-and we certainly have another good day’s work cut out for us to-morrow.”
-
-“With all my heart,” said Birger, finishing off what, from its colour,
-might have been a glass of water, but was not. As Odin says—
-
- “No one will charge thee
- With evil, if early
- Thou goest to slumber.”
-
-“Come along, then,” said the Captain, “turn in; and may the Nyss to whom
-we have sacrificed send us to-morrow ‘a southerly wind and a cloudy sky.’”
-
- There are several national songs in Norway. That which Torkel
- sings is an ancient song, and has been adapted and arranged
- as a chorus, by Hullah; but it is not that which is generally
- known as “Gammle Norgé.” This, though eminently popular, is but
- a modern composition. Its author is Bjerregaard, a Norse poet
- of some eminence. It has been thus rendered into English by Mr.
- Latham:—
-
- Minstrel, awaken the harp from its slumbers!
- Strike for old Norway, the land of the free!
- High and heroic in soul-stirring numbers,
- Clime of our fathers, we strike it for thee!
- Old recollections
- Awake our affections,—
- They hallow the name of the land of our birth;
- Each heart beats its loudest,
- Each cheek glows its proudest,
- For Norway the Ancient, the Throne of the Earth!
-
- Spirit! look back on her far-flashing glory,
- The far-flashing meteor that bursts on thy glance,
- On chieftain and hero immortal in story,
- They press to the battle like maids to the dance.
- The blood flows before them,
- The wave dashes o’er them,
- They reap with the sword what they plough with the keel;
- Enough that they leave
- To the country that bore them
- Bosoms to bleed for her freedom and weal.
-
- The Shrine of the Northman, the Temple of Freedom,
- Stands like a rock where the stormy wind breaks;
- The tempests howl round it, but little he’ll heed them,—
- Freely he thinks, and as freely he speaks.
- The bird in its motion,
- The wave in its ocean,
- Scarcely can rival his liberty’s voice;
- Yet he obeys,
- With a willing devotion
- Laws of his making and kings of his choice.
-
- Land of the forest, the fell, and the fountain,—
- Blest with the wealth of the field and the flood,—
- Steady and truthful, the sons of thy mountain,
- Pay the glad price of thy rights with their blood.
- Ocean hath bound thee,
- Freedom hath found thee,—
- Flourish, old Norway, thy flag be unfurled!
- Free as the breezes
- And breakers around thee—
- The pride of thy children, the Throne of the World!
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX.
-
-THE HELL FALL.
-
- “If thou hadst not been leading a life of sin—
- The sun shines over Enen—
- Thou wouldst have given me water thy bare hand within—
- Under the linden green.
- Now, this is the penance that on thee I lay:
- Eight years in the wood shalt thou live from this day,
- And no food shall pass thy lips between,
- Save only the leaves of the linden green;
- And no other drink shalt thou have at all,
- Save the dew on the linden leaves so small;
- And no other bed shall be pressed by thee,
- Save only the roots of the linden tree.
- When eight long years were gone and spent,
- Jesus the Lord to Magdalene went—
- Now shall Heaven’s mercy thee restore—
- The sun shines over Enen—
- Go, Magdalena, and sin no more
- Under the linden green.”
-
- _Svenska Folk-visor._
-
-
-Whether the Spirits of the Flood and Fell considered themselves
-complimented by the homage which had been paid to them, or whether things
-would have turned out exactly the same had there been no offering at
-all, is a mystery of mythology which we will not take upon ourselves to
-determine. Certain it is, that when the next morning was ushered in with
-a soft westerly breeze and a dull cloudy sky, interspersed with bright
-transient gleams of joyous sunshine, such as salmon love, the Nyssar got
-the credit of it all. Not that the Norwegians were at first aware of the
-extent of their blessings, for the barbarians are all unversed in the
-mysteries of fly-fishing, but they were not long in finding it out, from
-the smiling looks and congratulatory expressions of their employers.
-
-Englishmen might have felt dull and heavy after the consumption of such
-enormous quantities of brandy: English heads might have ached, and
-English hands might have felt shaky during the operation of getting
-sober. Thor himself could not have risen from the challenge cup, set
-before him by Loki Utgard, with more complete self-possession than did
-Tom and Torkel, and the mighty Jacob. Sleep and drink had fled with the
-shades of night, and it was a steady hand that served out the coffee that
-morning.
-
-The party had long separated to their respective pursuits, for the
-impatience of the fishermen and the actual dearth of provisions in the
-camp did not allow of idling.
-
-Towards noon the breeze had entirely sunk, and the sun, having succeeded
-in dispelling the clouds, was shining in its summer strength into the
-confined valley, concentrating its rays from the encircling rocks upon
-the channel of the river, and pouring them on the encampment as on the
-focus of a burning-glass.
-
-It was not, however, a depressing, moist, stewing heat; there was a
-lightness and elasticity in the air unknown in southern climes, or if
-known at all, known only on the higher Alps, and in the middle of the
-summer. Men felt the heat, no doubt, and the thermometer indicated a high
-degree of temperature; but there was nothing in it enervating, nothing
-predisposing to slothfulness or inaction; on the contrary, the nerves
-seemed braced under it, and the spirits buoyant. Work and exercise were a
-pleasure, not a toil; and if the Parson did stretch himself out under the
-shade of the great birch tree, it was the natural result of a well-spent
-morning of downright hard work. Wielding a flail is a trifle compared to
-wielding a salmon rod; and he and the Captain had, both of them, wielded
-it that morning to some purpose, for the salmon had not been unmindful
-of the soft breeze and the cloudy skies, but had risen to the fly with
-appetites truly Norwegian.
-
-Jacob and Torkel, with one of the boatmen in the distance, were up to
-their eyes in salt and blood, cleaning, splitting, salting, and otherwise
-preparing the spare fish for a three days’ sojourn in the smoking-house;
-while three or four bright-looking fresh run salmon, selected from
-the heap, and ready crimped for the kettle or toasting skewers, were
-glittering from under the green and constantly-wetted branches, with
-which they were protected from the heat of the day.
-
-Birger, who was much more at home with his gun than with his fishing-rod,
-had gone out that morning early, attended by his two men, in order to
-reconnoitre the country, and see what its capabilities were; for the
-Parson’s report had been confined to its excellencies as a fishing
-station. The Captain was still on the river; every now and then distant
-glimpses of his boat could be seen as he shifted from throw to throw, and
-occasionally condescended even to harl the river, by way of resting his
-arms. Such a fishing morning as they had enjoyed, is not often to be met
-with, and the Captain would not take the hint which the cloudless sun had
-been giving him for the last half-hour.
-
-The Parson, whose rod was pitched in a neighbouring juniper, and whose
-fly, a sober dark-green, as big as a bird, floated out faintly in the
-expiring breeze, was stretched at full length on the turf, occupied, so
-far as a tired man who is resting himself can be said to be occupied at
-all, in watching the motions of a little red-headed woodpecker, that was
-darting from branch to branch and from tree to tree, making the forest
-ring again with its sharp succession of taps, as it drove the insects
-out of their hiding-places beneath the outside bark. Taps they were,
-no doubt, and given by the bird’s beak, too, but by no means like the
-distinct and deliberate tap of the yellow woodpecker, every one of which
-may be counted: so rapid were they, that they sounded more like the
-scrooping of a branch torn violently from the tree, and so loud, that it
-was difficult to conceive that such a sound could be caused by a bird
-comparatively so diminutive.
-
-The woodpecker, which seemed almost tame and by no means disconcerted
-by the presence of strangers, pursued its occupation with the utmost
-confidence, though quite within reach of the Parson’s rod.
-
-“Take care,” said the Parson, as Torkel approached, “do not disturb it.”
-
-“Disturb what?” said Torkel.
-
-The Parson pointed to the woodpecker, which was not a dozen yards from
-them. The bird paused a moment, and looked at them, but evinced no
-symptoms of timidity.
-
-“What, the Gertrude-bird?” said Torkel; “no one would disturb her while
-working out her penance, poor thing! She knows that well enough; look
-at her.” And, in truth, the bird did seem to know it, for another loud
-rattle of taps formed an appropriate accompaniment to Torkel’s speech;
-though Birger and the Captain at that moment came up, the one with his
-last fish, the other with a couple of ducks, a tjäder, and two brace
-of grouse, of one sort or another, which he had met with during his
-morning’s exploration.
-
-The Parson nodded to the Captain, congratulated Birger, but, ever ready
-for a legend, turned round to Torkel.
-
-“What do you mean by a Gertrude-bird, and what is her penance?” said he.
-
-Birger smiled—not unbelievingly, though; for the legend is as well
-known in Sweden as it is in Norway; and few people, in either of these
-countries, who believe in anything at all, are altogether sceptical on
-matters of popular superstition.
-
-“That bird,” said Torkel, “or at least her ancestors, was once a woman;
-and it is a good lesson that she reads us every time we see her. God
-grant that we may all be the better for it,” he added, reverentially.
-
-“One day she was kneading bread, in her trough, under the eaves of her
-house, when our Lord passed by, leaning on St. Peter. She did not know
-that it was the Lord and his Apostle, for they looked like two poor men,
-who were travelling past her cottage door.”
-
-“‘Give us of your dough, for the love of God,’ said the Lord Christ; ‘we
-have come far across the fjeld, and have fasted long!’
-
-“Gertrude pinched off a small piece for them, but on rolling it on her
-trough to get it into shape, it grew and grew, and filled up the trough
-completely. She looked at it in wonder. ‘No,’ said she, ‘that is more
-than you want;’ so she pinched off a smaller piece, and rolled it out as
-before; but the smaller piece filled up the trough, just as the other
-had done, and Gertrude put it aside, too, and pinched a smaller bit
-still. But the miracle was just the same; the smaller bit filled up the
-trough as full as the largest-sized kneading that she had ever put in it.
-
-“Gertrude’s heart was hardened still more; she put that aside too,
-resolving, so soon as the strangers had left her, to divide all her dough
-into little bits, and to roll it out into great loaves. ‘I cannot give
-you any to-day,’ said she; ‘go on your journey, and the Lord prosper you,
-but you must not stop at my house.’
-
-“Then the Lord Christ was angry; and her eyes were opened, and she saw
-whom she had forbidden to come into her house, and she fell down on her
-knees; but the Lord said, ‘I gave you plenty, but that hardened your
-heart, so plenty was not a blessing to you; I will try you now with the
-blessing of poverty; you shall from henceforth seek your food day by day,
-and always between the wood and the bark.[15] But forasmuch as I see your
-penitence to be sincere, this shall not be for ever: as soon as your back
-is entirely clothed in mourning this shall cease, for by that time you
-will have learned to use your gifts rightly.’
-
-“Gertrude flew from the presence of the Lord, for she was already a bird,
-but her feathers were blackened already, from her mourning; and from that
-time forward she and her descendants have, all the year round, sought
-their food between the wood and the bark; but the feathers of their back
-and wings get more mottled with black as they grow older; and when the
-white is quite covered the Lord Christ takes them for his own again. No
-Norwegian will ever hurt a Gertrude-bird, for she is always under the
-Lord’s protection, though he is punishing her for the time.”
-
-“Bravo, Torkel,” said the Parson. “I could not preach a better sermon
-than that myself, or give you sounder theology.”
-
-“You seem always on the look-out for a superstition,” said the Captain.
-
-“So I am,” said the Parson. “There is nothing that displays the
-character of a people so well as their national legends.”
-
-“But do you not consider that in lending your countenance to them, and
-looking as if you believed them, you are lending your countenance to
-superstition itself?”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “what would you have me do? laugh them out of
-it, like Miss Martineau? And if I succeeded in that, which I should
-not, what should I have done then? Why, opened a fallow for scepticism.
-Superstition is the natural evidence of the Unseen in the minds of the
-ignorant; to be superstitious, is to believe in a Being superior to
-ourselves; and this is in itself the first step to spiritual advancement.
-Inform the mind, teaching it to distinguish the true from the false, and
-superstition—that is to say, the reverence for the unseen—brightens into
-true religion. Take it away by force, or quench it by ridicule, and you
-have an unoccupied corner of the soul for every bad passion to take root
-in. Superstition is the religion of the ignorant.”
-
-“Well, there is truth in that,” said the Captain. “When a boy becomes
-a man, he will not play prison-base, or go a bird’s-nesting; but
-prison-base and bird’s-nesting are no bad preparation for manly daring
-and gallant enterprise.”
-
-“Very true; and when the boy is capable of the latter he will leave off
-his prison-base and bird’s-nesting without any trouble on your part.”
-
-“There are good superstitions as well as bad,” said Birger. “To be afraid
-of thinning down a noxious bird, like the magpie, as our people are,
-because the devil has them under his protection, is a bad superstition.
-It is a distrust in the power and providence of God; but, though it is
-equally a superstition to imagine that one bird is more a favourite with
-God than another, yet the boy who, in your country, in the ardour of his
-first shooting expedition, turns aside his gun because
-
- Cock-robins and kitty-wrens
- Are God Almighty’s cocks and hens;
-
-or, in our country, from the Gertrude-bird, because she is working
-out the penance which Christ has imposed upon her, has, in so doing,
-exercised self-denial, has acknowledged the existence of a God, and has
-admitted the sanctity of His protection. Many a superstition has as good
-a moral as a parable, and this is one of them.”
-
-The approach of dinner at once scared away the Gertrude-bird, and put an
-end to Birger’s moralising; and as they discussed the pink curdy salmon,
-the produce of the morning’s sport, and revelled in the anticipation
-of strawberry and raspberry jam, the fumes of which every now and then
-were wafted to them from the kitchen, and in the certainty of roast game
-and smoked fish for future consumption, they laid their plans for the
-afternoon’s sport.
-
-The sun was still shining in its strength and cloudlessness, and bade
-fair so to shine for the rest of the day; and the breeze, which had been
-for some time failing, had now sunk into a perfect calm. No salmon or
-trout were to be caught by the usual means—that was clear enough. Jacob,
-however, who had procured what might be called with great propriety a
-kettle of fish, for he had borrowed from a neighbouring farm-house one
-of the kettles in which they simmer their milk, and had got it full
-of minnows and other small fry—proposed setting his långref. This was
-unanimously assented to, for occupation is pleasing, and so is variety;
-and eels, pike, and flounders, which were likely to be its produce, were
-no bad additions to a larder less remarkable for the variety of its
-provisions than for their abundance.
-
-But the grand scheme was one proposed by the Captain, who had been
-reconnoitring the higher parts of the river, and had discovered a very
-likely place for a bright day, but one which could not be reached from
-the shore, or by any of the ordinary means of propelling a boat. It was
-a fall terminating, not as falls generally do, in a huge basin, but in a
-shoot or rapid of considerable length, like a gigantic mill race, which,
-after a straight but turbulent course of a couple of hundred yards, shot
-all at once into the middle of a round and eddying pool. It was called
-the Hell Fall, probably from its fury, for the word is Norske; but
-possibly also, from Hela’s Fall, Hela being the Goddess of Darkness; and
-well did the yawning chasm, through which the waters rushed, deserve that
-name, overshadowed as it was by its black walls of rock. It was upon this
-that the Captain had reckoned; whatever were the case with the rest of
-the world, sunshine or storm must be alike to it, and to the tenants of
-its gloomy recesses.
-
-The Captain was confident the thing could be done, and the Parson was
-as confident that if it could be done, and the fly introduced into the
-numerous turn-holes round which the water boiled and bubbled, the rapid
-would require neither cloud nor wind to make it practicable. And Birger,
-who was a great man at contrivances, asseverated strongly that it should
-be done.
-
-The first job, however, was to set the långref, and that was a mode of
-poaching with which they were all familiar. The långref, a line of two or
-three hundred fathoms in length, with a snood and a hook at each fathom,
-was baited from the minnow kettle, and coiled, so that the baited hooks
-lay together on a board; and one end having been made fast to a stump
-on the landing place, the boat was pulled diagonally down and across
-the stream, and the line gradually paid out in such a manner that the
-hooks were carried by the current, so as to hang free of the back line;
-the other end, which came within a few yards of the farther bank, was
-anchored by a heavy stone, backed by a smaller one, and the whole affair
-left to fish for itself.
-
-In the meanwhile, some of the men had been sent forward with ropes, and
-with the boat-hooks and oars belonging to the expedition; for, though
-boats are always procurable in a place where the river forms the usual
-means of communication, their gear is not always to be relied on in cases
-of difficulty.
-
-The fishermen selected their short lake rods, as better adapted to the
-work they were going about than the great two-handed salmon rods with
-which they had been fishing that morning; and having fitted fresh casting
-lines, which, in consideration of the work they were going about, were
-of the strongest twisted gut they could find, they took the path up the
-river.
-
-“I wonder what are the proper flies of this river,” said the Captain. “In
-Scotland every place has its own set of flies, and you are always told
-that you will do nothing at all, unless you get the very colours and the
-very flies peculiar to the river.”
-
-“You seem to have done pretty well on this river, at all events,” said
-Birger, “without any such information.”
-
-“No information is to be despised,” said the Parson. “The oldest
-fisherman will always find something to be learnt from men who have
-passed their lives on a particular stream, and have studied it from their
-boyhood. There is, however, only one general principle, and that will
-always hold good. By this the experienced fisherman will never be at a
-loss about suiting his fly to the water. Here is the Captain now; we
-have had no consultation, and yet I will venture to say that we are both
-fishing with flies of a similar character. What fly did you catch your
-fish with, this morning, Captain?”
-
-“I have been using my old Scotch flies,” said the Captain, “such as they
-tie on the Tay and Spey,[16] and the largest of the sort I could find.”
-
-“To be sure you did; and tell Birger why you did not use your Irish
-flies.”
-
-“They were too gaudy for the water,” said the Captain.
-
-“That, Birger, will give you the principle,” said the Parson. “The
-Captain has been very successful with flies belonging to another river;
-now, look at mine, which I tied last night, while I was waiting till
-you came home from sacrificing to Nyssen. Except in size, this is as
-different as possible from the Captain’s; and yet its principle is
-precisely the same; mine is a green silk body, black hackle, blackcock
-wing, no tinsel, and nothing bright about it, except this single golden
-pheasant topping for a tail. Now, the Tay flies are quite different to
-look at; they are mostly brown or dun pig’s wool bodies, with natural
-red or brown hackles and mallard wings; but the principle of both is the
-same; they are sober, quiet flies, with no glitter or gaudiness about
-them; and the Captain shall tell you what induced him to select such as
-these.”
-
-“I chose the largest fly I could find,” said the Captain; “because the
-water here is very deep and strong; and as the salmon lies near the
-bottom, I must have a large fly to attract his attention; but I must not
-have a gaudy fly, because the water is so clear that the sparkle of the
-tinsel would be more glittering than anything in nature; and the fish,
-when he had risen and come near enough to distinguish it, would be very
-apt to turn short.”
-
-“You have it now, precisely,” said the Parson; “the depth of the water
-regulates the size of the fly, and the clearness of the water its
-colours. This rule, of course, is not without exceptions; if it were,
-there would be no science in fishing. The sun, the wind, the season,
-the state of the atmosphere must also be taken into consideration; for
-instance, this rapid we are going to fish now, is the very same water we
-have been fishing in below, and therefore just as clear, but it is rough,
-and overhung by rocks and trees. I mean, therefore, to put on a gayer fly
-than anything we have used hitherto. But here we are,” he said, as they
-looked down upon the rush of waters, “and upon my word, an ugly place it
-is.”
-
-The Parson might well say that, for the waters were rushing below with
-frightful rapidity. Above them was the fall, where the river, compressed
-into a narrow fissure, shot through it like an enormous spout, into a
-channel, wider certainly than the spout itself, but still very narrow;
-while the perpendicular walls reminded the spectators of an artificial
-lock right in the middle of the stream; at the very foot of the fall, was
-a solid rock, on the back of which the waters heaped themselves up, and
-found their way into the straight channel by rushing round it. In fact,
-without this check, their rapidity would have been too great for anything
-to swim in them; and as it was they looked anything but inviting.
-
-“A very awkward place!” said the Parson! “and how do you mean to fish
-this?”
-
-“Come away a little from the roar of the waters,” said the Captain, “and
-I will explain my plans. You see that flat ledge of rock below us, just
-above the rush of the water; that spot we can reach by means of the rope.
-Make it fast to that tree, Tom: you learned knotting in the English navy,
-you know.”
-
-Tom grinned, and did as he was told, and the Captain ascertained the
-strength of his work practically, by climbing down the face of the rock,
-and reconnoitring personally the ledge he had pointed out.
-
-“Now,” said he, when he had returned, “we will get the boat as near as
-we can to this rush of water, and then veer out a rope to her from this
-rock: birch ropes will float, and the stream is quite sufficient to carry
-it down. If we make the boat fast to this, we may command every inch of
-the rapid, and you see yourself, how many turn-holes are made by the
-points of the rock which project from either side. You may depend upon
-it, every one of these contains a salmon, and the water is so troubled
-and covered with foam, that not one of these fish will know or care
-whether the sun is shining or not.”
-
-“I think your reasoning is sound enough,” said the Parson; “but if the
-boat capsizes, the best swimmer in Norway would be drowned, or knocked to
-pieces against these rocky points.”
-
-[Illustration: HELL FALL.
-
-p. 119.]
-
-“But what is to capsize the boat? I am not going to take young hands with
-me; we all know our work; at all events, I mean to make the first trial
-of my own plan myself, you have nothing to do but to stand on the rock,
-and haul up the boat.”
-
-The Parson looked at Birger.
-
-“I do not think there is much danger,” said he; “and if the Captain will
-manage the rod, I will see to the boat. Tom shall take the other oar.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “you have left me the safest job; but I do not
-quite like to see you do it. However, I suppose you will; so here goes to
-see that you run no more danger than is absolutely necessary.” So saying,
-he eased himself down the rope to the flat rock, followed by Torkel and
-Pierson, who had previously thrown down a coil of birch rope; while the
-Captain, Birger, and Tom went down to the place below the rapid, where
-the boat was moored to a stump of a tree that grew over the river.
-
-The birch rope floated on the top of the racing water, and soon reached
-the great turn-hole below the rapid, where the current was not so furious
-but that the boat could easily be managed. After one or two misses,
-Birger caught the end of it with his boat-hook, and, passing it round all
-the thwarts, secured it to the aftermost one; placing an axe in the stern
-sheets, in which the Captain had seated himself with his short lake-rod
-in his hand, Tom sat amidships with the paddles, while Birger himself
-stood forward with the boat-hook, to fend off from any point of rock that
-the eddies might sheer the boat against.
-
-When all was ready, he waved his cap—for no voice could be heard amid the
-roar of water—and the Parson and his party began steadily hauling on the
-rope. The boat entered the dark cleft, and, though her progress was very
-slow, cut a feather through the water, as if she were racing over it.
-
-Tom, by dipping one or other paddle, steered from side to side, as
-he was bid; and the Captain threw his fly into the wreaths of foam
-which gathered in the dark corners; for in the most furious of rapids,
-there will always be spots of water perfectly stationary, where the
-eddies, that have been turned off by projecting rocks, meet again the
-main current; and, in those places, the salmon will invariably rest
-themselves, accomplishing their passage, as it were, by stages.
-
-From side to side swung the boat—now at rest, now hauled upon by the
-line, according to the messages which Birger telegraphed with his cap;
-but, for some time, without any result, except that of convincing the
-Parson that the dangers he apprehended, were more in appearance than in
-reality; so that they were beginning to think that their ingenuity would
-be the sole reward of their pains. At length, there was a sudden tug at
-the line, the water was far too agitated to permit the rise to be seen,
-and the Captain’s rod bent like a bow.
-
-“Haul up, a few fathoms,” said he, raising his rod so as to get his line,
-as much as possible, out of the action of the water, which was forcing it
-into a bight. “Now, steer across, Tom, to the opposite side. We must try
-the strength of the tackle—‘Pull for the half,’ as we say in Ireland.”
-
-The fish had not attempted to run, knowing that its best chance of safety
-was in the hole in which it lay, but had sunk sulkily to the bottom.
-No sooner, however, did the boat feel the current on her bow, than she
-sheered across to the opposite side; and the Captain, stopping his line
-from running out, drew the salmon by main force from its shelter, who,
-feeling the strength of the current, for a moment attempted to stem it;
-but soon, the Captain, adroitly dropping his hand, turned tail and raced
-away, downward, with the combined velocity of the stream, and its own
-efforts.
-
-The Captain paused a moment, to make sure that the fish was in earnest,
-and then cut the rope; and boat, fish, and all, came tumbling down the
-rapid into the turn-hole below.
-
-Once there, it became an ordinary trial of skill between man and
-fish—such as always occurs whenever a salmon is hooked in rough water—and
-that the Captain was well up to. It was impossible for it again to head
-up the dangerous ground of the rapid, or to face the rush of the waters
-with the strain of the line upon it; so it raced backwards and forwards,
-and up and down in the deep pool, while Tom took advantage of every
-turn to paddle his boat quietly into still water. At last, the Captain
-succeeded in turning his fish under a projecting tree, upon which the
-Parson, who, as soon as he had seen the turn matters were likely to take,
-had shinned up the rope, and hurried to the scene of action, was standing
-gaff in hand to receive it.
-
-“Well done, all hands!” said the Captain, as the Parson freed his gaff
-from the back fin of a twenty-pound salmon, and Birger hooked on to the
-tree, and brought his boat to shore. “Well done, all hands! it was no
-easy matter to invade such territories as that; but one wants a little
-additional excitement after such a fishing morning as we have had.”
-
-“I think we may set you down as _bene meritus de patriâ_,” said the
-Parson; “it is just as well to have a fresh resource on a bright
-afternoon like this; the time may come when we may want it.”
-
-“Now, then, for another fish,” said the Captain; “Birger shall try his
-hand at the rod this time.”
-
-Birger would have excused himself on account of his want of skill, but
-was very easily persuaded, and, thus they took turns, now securing a
-fish, now cutting a line against an unseen rock, now losing one by
-downright hard pulling, till, when the light began to fail, and the
-dangers to grow more real from the darkness, they made fast their boat
-to the stump, and returned victorious to the camp, having added three
-or four fish to their store, and those the finest they had caught that
-day.[17]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X.
-
-DEPARTURE FROM TORJEDAHL.
-
- “Og Trolde, Hexer, Nysser i hver Vraae.”
-
- _Finn Magnussen._
-
- And Witches, Trolls, and Nysses in each nook.
-
-
-“Hallo! what is the matter now?” said the Captain, who had been out
-with his gun that morning, and on his return caught sight of the Parson
-sitting disconsolate on the river’s bank. By the waters of Torjedahl we
-sat down and wept. “What has gone wrong?”
-
-“Why, everything has gone wrong,” said the Parson peevishly; “look at my
-line.”
-
-“You do seem to have lost your casting line, certainly.”
-
-“Yes, I have, and half my reel line beside.”
-
-“Very tinkerish, I dare say, but do not grieve over it; put on a new one
-and hold your tongue about it; no one saw you, and I promise not to tell.”
-
-“How can you be so absurd?” said the Parson, “look at the river, and
-tell me how we are to fish that; just look at those baulks of timber
-floating all over it. I had on as fine a fish as ever I saw in my
-life,—five-and-twenty pounds if he was an ounce, when down came these
-logs, and one of them takes my reel line, with sixty yards out, and cuts
-it right in the middle.”
-
-“Well, that is provoking,” said the Captain, “enough to make a saint
-swear, let alone a parson; but, hang it, man, it is only once in the way.
-Come along, do not look behind you; I am in a hurry to be at it myself, I
-came home on purpose, I was ashamed to waste so glorious a fishing day as
-this in the fjeld.”
-
-“That is just the thing that annoys me,” said the Parson; “it is, as you
-say, a most lovely fishing day,—I never saw a more promising one; and I
-have just heard that these logs will take three days floating by at the
-very least, and while they are on the river I defy the best fisherman in
-all England to land anything bigger than a graul.”
-
-“Why,” said the Captain, “have the scoundrels been cutting a whole
-forest?”
-
-“This is what Torkel tells me,” said the Parson; “he says that in the
-winter they cut their confounded firs, and when the snow is on the ground
-they just square them, haul them down to the river or its tributaries,
-where they leave them to take care of themselves, and when the ice melts
-in the spring, down come the trees with it. But there are three or four
-lakes, it seems, through which this river passes—that, by-the-by, is
-the reason why it is so clear; and, as the baulks would be drifting all
-manner of ways when they got into these lakes, and would get stranded on
-the shores instead of going down the stream, they make what they call
-a boom at or near the mouth of the river, that is to say, they chain
-together a number of baulks, end-ways, and moor them in a bight across
-the river, so that they catch everything that floats. Here they get hold
-of the loose baulks, make them into rafts, and navigate them along the
-lakes, launching them again into the river at the other end, and catching
-them again at the next boom in the same way. They have, it seems, just
-broken up the contents of one of these booms above us. It will take three
-days to clear it out, and another day for the straggling pieces.”
-
-“Whew!” said the Captain, “three blessed days taken from the sum of our
-lives; what on earth is to be done?”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “that is exactly what we must see about, for it
-is quite certain that there is nothing to be done on the water. Before I
-began grumbling I sent off Torkel to look for Birger—for we must hold a
-council of war upon it. O! there is Birger,” said he, as they crossed the
-little rise which forms the head of the Aal Foss and came in sight of the
-camp and the river below it; “Torkel must have missed him.”
-
-“Hallo!” said Birger, who was with Piersen in one of the boats, fishing
-up with his boat-hook the back line of the långref, and apparently he had
-made an awkward mess of it—“hallo there! get another boat and come and
-help me, these baulks have played Old Scratch with the långref; it has
-made a goodly catch, too, last night, as far as I can see, but we want
-more help to get it in.”
-
-The Parson had the discretion to keep his own counsel, but the fact
-was, it was he who was the cause both of the abundant catch and of the
-present trouble. The small eels had been plaguing them, for some nights
-successively, by sucking off and nibbling to pieces baits which they
-were too small to swallow, and thus preventing the larger fish from
-getting at them. The Parson had seen this, and had set his wits to work
-to circumvent them. By attaching corks to the back line, he had floated
-the hooks above the reach of the eels, which he knew would never venture
-far from the bottom, while pike, gös, id, perch, the larger eels, and
-occasionally even trout, would take the floating bait more readily when
-they found it in mid-water.
-
-This would have done exceedingly well, had he looked at it early in the
-morning; that, however, he had not exactly forgotten, but had neglected
-to do. Time was precious, and he was unwilling to waste it on hauling
-the långref. Jacob, whose business it was to haul it, had been sent down
-to Christiansand on the preceding day, with two of the boatmen, for
-supplies, and had not yet returned; and the Parson, holding his tongue
-about his experiment, and proposing to himself the pleasure of hauling
-the långref when the mid-day sun should be too hot for salmon-fishing,
-had gone out early with his two-handed rod. In the meanwhile the baulks
-had come down, and the very first of them, catching the centre of the
-floating bight, had cut it in two, and had thus permitted the whole
-of the Parson’s great catch of fish to entangle themselves at their
-pleasure.
-
-[Illustration: p. 124.]
-
-It was these _disjecta membra_ that Birger was busying himself about;
-the task was not an easy one; and if it were, the guardsman was not
-altogether a proficient. But, even when the reinforcement arrived, there
-was nothing to be done beyond lifting the whole tangle bodily into the
-boat, releasing the fish from the hooks, and then, partly by patience,
-partly by a liberal use of the knife, to get out the tangle on shore.
-The further half gave them the most trouble to find; it had been moored
-to a stone, and the back line had been strong enough to drag it some way
-down the river before it broke. It was, however, at last discovered and
-secured, and the catch was of sufficient magnitude to ensure a supply of
-fish, notwithstanding the logs.
-
-“Stop a minute,” said the Captain, as the boats’ heads were put up the
-stream on their return; “we have not got all the långref yet, I am sure;
-I see another fish; just pull across that ripple, Parson, a few yards
-below the end of that stranded log. Yes, to be sure it is, and a salmon,
-too, and as dead as Harry the Eighth. Steady there! hold water!” and he
-made a rake for the line with his boat-hook. “Why, what have we got here?
-it is much too fine for the långref. As I live, it is your own line. To
-be sure; here it runs. Steady! Let me get a hold of it with my hand, it
-may not be hitched in the wood firmly, and if it slips we shall lose it
-entirely. That will do: all right. That must be the log that broke you;
-it must have stranded here after coming down the Aal Foss, with the fish
-still on it—and—hurrah! here is the fish all safe—and, I say, Parson,
-remarkably fine fish it is, certainly! not quite twenty-five pounds,
-though,”—holding up the fish by the tail, and measuring it against his
-own leg; for his trousers were marked with inches, from the pocket-button
-downwards,—a yard measure having been stitched on the seam. “You have not
-such a thing as a steelyard, have you?”
-
-The Parson, laughing—rather confusedly, though,—produced from his slip
-pocket the required instrument.
-
-“Ah! I thought so, ten pounds and a half; the biggest fish always do get
-away, that is certain, especially if they are not caught again; it is a
-thousand pities I put my eye on this one. I have spoilt your story?”
-
-“Well, well,” said the Parson, “if you have spoilt my story, you have
-made a good one for yourself, so take the other oar and let us pull for
-the camp.”
-
-“Birger,” said the Captain, when the boats had been made fast, and the
-spoils left in the charge of Piersen, “Torkel has been telling the Parson
-that we are to have three days of these logs. If the rascal speaks the
-truth, what is to be done by us fishermen?”
-
-“The rascal does speak the truth in this instance, I will be bound for
-it,” said Birger; “he knows the river well, and besides, it is what they
-do on every river in Norway that is deep enough to float a baulk.”
-
-“What is to be done, then? there is no fishing on the river while this is
-going on.”
-
-“I will tell you what we can do,” said Birger; “two or three days
-ago—that day when I returned to the camp so late—if you remember, I told
-you that I had fallen in with a lonely lake in the course of my rambles.
-There was a boat there belonging to a sœter in the neighbourhood, which
-Piersen knew of, and I missed a beautiful chance at a flight of ducks.
-However, that is neither here nor there; the people at the sœter told
-me that the great lake-char was to be found there; so the next day I
-sent Piersen, who understands laying lines if he does not understand
-fly-fishing, to set some trimmers for them. I vote we shoot our way to
-the lake, look at these lines, get another crack at the ducks, and make
-our way to the Toftdahl (which, if the map is to be trusted, must be
-somewhere within reach), fish there for a day, shoot our way back again,
-and by that time the wooden flood will be over.”
-
-“Bravo, Birger,” said the Captain, “a very promising plan, and here, in
-good time, comes Commissary-General Jacob with the supplies. I see his
-boat just over that point, entangled among a lump of logs. I vote we
-take him with us; no man makes such coffee. I have not had a cup worth
-drinking since you sent him down the river.”
-
-“You cannot take the poor fellow a long march to-day,” said the
-Parson, considerately, “he has just been pulling up the stream from
-Christiansand.”
-
-“He pull! is that all you know of Jacob? I will venture to say he has not
-pulled a stroke since he started; look at the rascal, how he lolls at
-his ease, with his legs over the hamper, while the men are half in the
-water, struggling their way through the obstacles.”
-
-“I see the scamp,” said the Parson; “upon my word, he puts me in mind of
-what the nigger observed on landing in England; man work, horse work,
-ox work, everything work, pig the only gentleman; Jacob is the only
-gentleman in our expedition.”
-
-“I admire that man,” said Birger; “that is the true practical philosophy,
-never to do anything for yourself if you can get other people to do it
-for you. But I think those fellows had better make haste about it. I have
-known such a hitch of timber as that bridge the whole river, from side to
-side, in ten minutes; they accumulate very rapidly when they once take
-ground—ah! there goes the boat free; all right; but I certainly began to
-tremble for my provisions.”
-
-“Well, then, we will take gentleman Jacob,” said the Captain, “I cannot
-give up my coffee.”
-
-“I think so,” said Birger; “we will leave our three boatmen here in
-charge of the camp; Tom, Torkel, and Piersen can carry the fishing-rods
-and our knapsacks, which we must pack in light marching order. Jacob
-shall provide for the kitchen, and we will each of us take a day’s
-provisions in our havresacs, and our guns on our shoulders; the odds
-are, we knock over grouse and wild fowl, by the way, enough to supply us
-nobly. And even if we do not meet with sport, we shall at all events have
-a pleasant pic-nicking trip, and see something of the country, while the
-Parson, who is so fond of open air, may indulge himself with sleeping
-under a tree, and contemplating the moon at his ease.”
-
-Torkel, who had come up while they were watching Jacob’s progress,
-and had learnt their plans, informed them of a sœter which lay nearly
-in their proposed course, and in which he had himself often received
-hospitality.
-
-“Well, then,” said the Captain, “that will do for us, and we will leave
-the Parson, if he prefers it,
-
- “His hollow tree,
- His crust of bread and liberty.”
-
-“You may laugh,” said the Parson, “but the time will come when you will
-find out certain disagreeables in a Norwegian dwelling, which may make
-you think with less contempt on the hollow tree.”
-
-“The Parson is of the same mind as the Douglas,” said the Captain, “he
-likes better to hear the lark sing, than the mouse squeak.”
-
-“I like clean heather better than dirty sheep-skin,” said the Parson.
-
-“And musquitoes better than fleas,” added the Captain.
-
-“Bother the musquitoes: I did not think of them.”[18]
-
-“They will soon remind you,” said Birger, “if we happen to encamp near
-standing water.” And he went on packing his knapsack to the tune of
-“Should Auld Acquaintance be Forgot,” which he whistled with considerable
-taste and skill.[19]
-
-Arrangements, such as these, are soon made; the three boatmen were
-left in charge of the camp, with full permission to get as drunk as
-they pleased; and, before Jacob had well stretched his legs, which had
-been cramped in the boat, he was stretching them on the mountain-side,
-marching a good way in the rear of the party, and grumbling as he marched.
-
-The mountains, which, all the way from Christiansand, hem in the river,
-so that not even a goat can travel along its banks, at Mosse Eurd and
-Wigeland recede on both sides, forming a sort of basin; and here, in a
-great measure, they lose their abrupt and perpendicular character. Close
-by the water-side, there are a hundred, or two, of acres of inclosed
-ground comparatively flat, and either arable or meadow; not by any means
-in a ring fence, but spots cribbed here and there from the fjeld, which
-looks more like a gentleman’s park than anything else, with these little
-paddocks fenced out of it. The houses, too, are quite the picturesque
-houses that gentlemen in England ornament their estates with, so that the
-untidy plank fences seemed altogether out of character with the scenery.
-What one would look for here, is the neat park palings of England, or its
-trim quickset hedges.
-
-Beyond this, the ground becomes more broken and wooded, but without
-losing its parkish character; it is something like the forest grounds
-of the South Downs in England, only broken into detached hills and
-deep rises, with, occasionally, a bare ridge of rock forcing its way
-through the short green turf. The forest was mostly birch, with a few
-maples and sycamores, and, here and there, a fir; but every tree big
-enough for a timber stick, had long ago been floated down to the boom at
-Christiansand. The character of the whole scene was prettiness rather
-than beauty. The mountains, however, were no lower than they had been
-further down the river; it was as if their perpendicular sides had, in
-some antediluvian age, given way, and that, in the course of centuries,
-the fragments had become covered with trees and verdure.
-
-Among these broken pieces of mountain it was extremely easy for the
-traveller to lose his way; there was not the vestige of a path, that is
-to say, a path leading to any place to which he could possibly want to
-go. The grass was particularly good and sweet there, and sheep and cows
-are intensely conservative in their idiosyncracy; so stoutly had they
-kept up the principle of _stare super antiquas vias_, that the appearance
-was as if the whole region was thickly inhabited and intersected with
-foot-paths in every direction, while every animal that helps to make them
-rings its own individual bell, and carries its own individual brand, but
-pastures in uncontrolled liberty. A cow is a very good guide to a lost
-man, for, if he has patience to wait till evening, she is sure to feed
-her way to the sœter to be milked; but woe to the man who puts his trust
-in bullocks or in sheep; they feed at ease, and roam at pleasure, till
-the frosts and snows of approaching winter bring them home to the fold,
-the stall, and the salting-tub.
-
-Much of the shrubbery appearance of the scene is produced by the numerous
-plants of the vaccinium tribe, the bright glossy leaves of which look
-like myrtle; and the blue aconite, and the gentian, and the lily of the
-valley, flowers which we seldom meet with in England, absolutely wild,
-and the familiar leaves of the raspberry, and black currant, suggest
-ideas of home, while the turf on which the traveller treads, looks as if
-it had been mown by the gardener that very morning.
-
-The course, though varied by quite as many ups and downs as there were
-ins and outs, was, upon the whole, continually ascending; and, as the
-higher regions were attained, and the facilities of transport diminished,
-the tall stately fir began to assert its natural supremacy among the
-northern sylva. Still, however, there was enough of birch, and even of
-the softer woods, to diversify the foliage, and preserve the park-like
-aspect. Heather, of which the Parson had anticipated making his couch,
-there was none; but, on the other hand, there was no furze to irritate
-the shins, or brambles to tear the clothes. The latter does grow in
-Norway, and is much more prized for its fruit than either raspberry or
-strawberry, but the former cannot stand the winters. Linnæus is said
-to have sat for hours in delighted contemplation of an English field
-of furze in full bloom, and the plant is generally seen in Swedish
-conservatories to this day, or set out in pots as oranges and myrtles are
-with us.
-
-The mid-day sun had scattered the clouds of the morning, as, in truth,
-it very generally does on a Norway summer day, and, shining down in
-patches of brilliant light through the openings, added to the beauty of
-the scene, and diminished in an equal proportion all regrets at leaving
-the Torjedahl behind; for it was quite evident that, except in the Hell
-Fall, or the pools, little or nothing could be done on so bright a day,
-had the baulks been entirely out of the question.
-
-It was an hour or two past noon when they arrived at the ridge which
-divides the valley of the Torjedahl from that of the Aalfjer—not that
-ridge is the proper expression, for the ground had, for some miles,
-become so nearly level that, were it not for a little rill, whose line
-of rushes had been for some time their guide, they would not have known
-whether they were ascending or descending. The country still preserved
-its character of beauty, but its features had gradually become more tame,
-so that the inequalities which, in the beginning of their journey had
-looked like fragments of mountains, were now rounded and regular, like so
-many gigantic mole-hills.
-
-Between two of these, the turf of which was green and unbroken to the
-summit, and shorter and more velvety, if that were possible, than any
-they had passed over, was the source of the rill, a black, boggy, rushy,
-uninviting bit of ground, but covered with myrica bushes, which diffused
-through the still air their peculiarly aromatic and refreshing scent;
-in the centre of this was a deep still hole—it could be called nothing
-else—it certainly was not a spring head, for there was not a bubble
-of springing water; it was perfectly still and motionless, and looked
-absolutely black in its clearness.
-
-It was a welcome halt to all, for the sun was hot and the way was long.
-The well-head was a noted haunt of the dwarfs or Trolls, indeed it was
-said to penetrate to the centre of the earth, and to be the passage
-through which they emerged to upper air.
-
-This was the reason why, though everything around was scorching and
-dropping in the withering heat, and though the unshaded sun fell full
-upon the unprotected surface, the water was at all times very cold, and
-yet in the hardest winter no ice ever formed upon it—its cold was that of
-the well of Urdar which waters the roots of Yggdrassil, the tree of life;
-no frost can bind these waters, neither can they be polluted with leaves
-or sticks, for a dwarf sits continually on guard there, to keep open the
-passage for his brethren.
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “I can readily believe that these are the waters of
-life, I never met with anything so refreshing, it beats all the brandy in
-the universe.”
-
-Jacob put in no protest to this heresy, but expressed a practical dissent
-by applying his mouth to a private bottle and passing it to Tom.
-
-The Captain was proceeding to wash his face and hands in the well-head,
-but the men begged him not to pollute it; the rill below, they said, did
-not so much signify.
-
-The place had been noted by Birger for a halt, and right glad were they
-all to disembarrass themselves of their respective loads, and to stretch
-themselves in various attitudes of repose picturesque enough upon the
-whole, under the great white poplars whose restless leaves fluttered over
-head though no one could feel the breeze that stirred them, and shaded
-the fairy precincts of the haunted well.
-
-The Parson threw himself on his back upon the turf with his jacket,
-waistcoat, and shirt-collar wide open, his arms extended, and his
-neckerchief, which he had removed, spread over his face and bare neck
-to keep off the musquitoes. He was not asleep exactly, nor, strictly
-speaking, could it be said that he was awake; he was enjoying that quiet
-dreamy sort of repose, that a man thoroughly appreciates after walking
-for five or six hours on a burning hot summer’s day. His blood was still
-galloping through his veins, and he was listening to the beat of his own
-pulses.
-
-“This is very delightful, very,” he said, in a drowsy drawling voice,
-speaking rather to himself than to Torkel. “A very curious sound, one,
-two, three, it sounds like distant hammers.”
-
-“Oh, the Thousand!” said Torkel, “where are we lying?”
-
-The Parson, when he threw himself down on the hill side, had been a
-great deal too hot and tired to pay much attention to his couch, beyond
-the evident fact that the turf was very green and inviting, and that
-it contained no young juniper or other uncomfortable bedding: roused by
-Torkel’s observation, he sat upright, and seeing nothing very remarkable
-except a good rood of lilies of the valley at his feet, the scent of
-which he had been unconsciously enjoying, and which did not look at all
-terrible, stared at him. “Well,” said he, “what is the matter? where
-should we be lying?”
-
-“I do not know,” said Torkel, “that is, I do not know for certain; but
-did you not say you heard hammers? Stay,” he said, looking as if he had
-resolved to do some desperate deed—“yes, I will, I am determined,” and
-he took a piece of clay that was sticking on his right boot, and having
-patted it into the size of a half-crown, put it on his head and dashed
-his hat on over it. Then shading his eyes with his hand, he looked
-fixedly at the hill, as if he were trying to look through it. “No,” said
-he, “I do not see anything, I hope and trust you are mistaken.”
-
-“What can you be about?” said the Parson impatiently, “have you found a
-brandy shop in the forest?”
-
-“I thought it must be the Bjergfolk,” he said, “when you heard the
-hammers. I never can hear them myself, because I was not born on a
-Saturday, and I thought perhaps you might have been. It is a very round
-hill too, just the sort of place they would choose, and they have not a
-great deal of choice nowadays, there are so many bells in the churches,
-and the Trolls cannot live within the sound of bells.”
-
-“No?” said the Parson, “why not?”
-
-“None of the spirits of the middle earth like bells,” said Torkel,
-“neither Alfs, nor Nisses, nor Nechs, nor Trolls, they do not like to
-think of man’s salvation. Bells call people to church, and that is where
-neither Troll nor Alf may go. They are sometimes very spiteful about it,
-too.”
-
-“In the good old times, when it was Norway and Denmark, and we were not
-tied to those hogs of Swedes as we are now” (sinking his voice, out of
-respect to Birger, but by no means so much so that Birger could not
-hear him), “they were building a church at Knud. They pitched upon a
-highish mound near the river, on which to build it, because they wanted
-the people to see their new church, little thinking that the mound was
-the house of a Troll, and that on St. John’s eve, it would stand open
-supported on real pillars. Well, the Troll, who must have been very young
-and green, could not make out what they were going to do with his hill,
-and he had no objection whatever to a house being built upon it, because
-he reckoned upon a good supply of gröd and milk from the dairy. He could
-have seen but very little of the world above the turf not to know a
-church from a house. However, he had no suspicions, and the bells were
-put up, and the Pröbst came to consecrate. The poor Troll could not bear
-to see it, so he rushed out into the wide world, and left his goods and
-his gold and his silver behind him.
-
-“The next day a peasant going home from the consecration saw him weeping
-and wringing his hands beyond the hearing of the bells, which was as near
-as he could venture to come. And the Troll told him that he was obliged
-to leave his country, and could never come back, and asked him to take a
-letter to his friends.
-
-“I suppose the man’s senses were rather muzzy yet—he could hardly have
-had time to get sober so soon after the ceremony; but somehow or another
-he did not see that the speaker was a Troll, but took him for some poor
-fellow who had had a misfortune, and had killed some one, and fancied he
-was afraid of the Landamptman, particularly as he had told him not to
-give the letter to any one (indeed it had no direction), but to leave it
-in the churchyard of the new church, where the owner would find it.
-
-“One would naturally wish to befriend a poor fellow in such a strait; so
-the man took the letter, put it into his pocket, and turned back.
-
-“He had not gone far before he felt hungry, so he took out a bit of flad
-bröd and some dried cod that he had put into his pocket. They were all
-wet. He did not know how that could be; but he took out the letter for
-fear it should be spoiled, and then found that there was wet oozing out
-from under the seal. He wiped it; but the more he wiped it, the wetter
-it was. At last, in rubbing, he broke the seal, and he was glad enough
-to run for it then, for the water came roaring out of the letter like
-the Wigelands Foss, and all he could do he could only just keep before
-it till it had filled up the valley. And there it is to this day. I have
-seen it myself—a large lake as big as our Forres Vand. The fact was, the
-Troll had packed up a lake in the letter, and would have drowned church,
-bells, and all, if he had only sealed it up a little more carefully.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “this beats our penny-post; we send queer things
-by that ourselves, but I do not think anybody has ever yet thought of
-sending a lake through the General Post Office.”
-
-“Is there not some story about Hercules cleaning out the Admiralty, or
-some such place, in a very similar way?” said the Captain.
-
-“No,” said the Parson, “I never heard that the Admiralty has ever been
-cleaned out at all since the days of Pepys. If ever it is done, though,
-it must be in some such wholesale way as this—I do not know anything else
-that will do it.”
-
-“The hill-men are not such bad fellows, though,” said Tom, on whom all
-this by-play about the Admiralty was quite lost, British seaman as he
-was; “and, by the way, Torkel, I wish you would not call them by their
-names, you know they do not like it, and may very well do us a mischief
-before we get clear of this fjeld. Many people say that there is no
-certainty of their being damned after all—our schoolmaster thinks they
-certainly will not, for he says he cannot find anything about damning
-Trolls in the Bible, and I am sure I hope it will not be found necessary
-to damn them, for they often do us a good turn. There was a Huusbonde
-in the Tellemark who had one of their hills on his farm that no one had
-ever made any use of, and he made up his mind to speak to the Troll about
-it. So he waited till St. John’s eve came round and the hill was open,
-and then he went, and sure enough he found the Bjergman. He seemed a
-good-humoured fellow enough, but he was not so rich as most of them; he
-had only a very few copper vessels in his hill and hardly any silver.
-
-“‘Herr Bjergman,’ said the Huusbonde, ‘you do not seem to be in a very
-good case, neither am I, but I think we may make something of this hill
-of yours between us—I say between us, for, you know, the top of the soil
-belongs to me, just as the under soil belongs to you.’
-
-“‘Aye, aye!’ said the Bjergman, ‘I should like that very well. What do
-you propose?’
-
-“‘Why, I propose to dig it up and sow it, and as we have both of us a
-right to the ground, I think in common fairness we ought both of us to
-labour at it, and then we will take the produce year and year about. The
-first year I will have all that is above ground and you shall have all
-below; and the next year we will change over, and then you shall have all
-that is above and I will have all that is below.”
-
-“‘Well,’ said the Troll, greatly pleased, ‘that is fair; I like dealing
-with an honest man. When shall we begin?’
-
-“‘Why, next spring, I think; suppose we say after Walpurgis night,[20] we
-cannot get at the ground much before.’
-
-“‘With all my heart,’ said the Bjergman—and so they did. They worked very
-well together, but the Bjergman did twice as much work as his friend;
-they always do when they are pleased; and they sowed oats and rye and
-bear; and when harvest came the Huusbonde took that which was above
-the ground, the grain and the straw which came to his share, while the
-Bjergman was very well contented with his share of roots.
-
-“‘When next Walpurgis night came round they dug up the ground again; and
-this time the Bjergman was to have all that was above ground, so they
-manured it well, and sowed turnips and carrots; and by and by, when the
-harvest came, the Huusbonde had a fine heap of roots, and the Bjergman
-was delighted with his share of greens. There never came any harm of
-this that I know, each was pleased with his bargain, and the Huusbonde
-came to be the richest man in the Tellemark. You know the family, Torkel,
-old Nils of Bygland, it was his grandfather Lars, to whom it happened.”
-
-“Well,” said Torkel, “it is quite true, then, I can testify, I only wish
-I had a tenth part so many specie-dalers in the Trondhjem Bank as old
-Nils has.”
-
-“And our Norfolk squires,” said the Captain, “fancy it was their sagacity
-that discovered the four-course system of agriculture! The Trolls were
-before them, it seems.”
-
-“The system seems to answer quite as well in Norway as ever it did in
-England,” said the Parson, “If all that Tom tells us about Nils of
-Bygland be true.”
-
-“There is not a doubt of that,” said Torkel, “all Tellemarken knows Nils
-of Bygland, and it is a great pity, when we were crossing the lake the
-other day, that we did not stop at his house; he was never known to let a
-stranger go to bed sober yet.”
-
-“I should think he was seldom without company, then,” said Birger.
-
-“It seems to have answered very well in this particular case,” said
-Jacob, “but I do not think you can trust beings without souls, after all.
-It is best just to make your offering to Nyssen, and to the Lady of the
-Lake, and two or three others, and then to have nothing more to do with
-them.”
-
-“You certainly had better keep a sharp look-out,” said Torkel, “But
-I think we Norwegians know how to handle them, and so do our gallant
-friends the Danes. Did you ever hear how Kallendborg Church was built?”
-
-The Englishmen, at all events, had not, and Torkel went on.
-
-“Esberne Snorre was building that church, and his means began to run
-short, when a Troll came up to him and offered to finish it off himself,
-upon one condition, and that was, that if Snorre could not find out his
-name he should forfeit his heart and his eyes.
-
-“Snorre was very anxious to finish his church, and he consented, though
-he was not without misgivings either; and the Troll set about his work
-in earnest. Kallendborg Church is the finest church in the whole country,
-and the roof of its nave was to stand on four pillars, for the Troll
-drew out the plan himself. It was all finished except half a pillar, and
-poor Snorre was in a great fright about his heart and his eyes, when one
-evening as he came home late from the market at Roeskilde he heard a
-Troll woman singing under a hill—
-
- “Tie stille, barn min,
- Imorgen kommer Fin
- Fa’er din,
- Og gi’er dig Esberne Snorre’s öine og hjerte at lege mid.”[21]
-
-“Snorre said nothing; but the next morning out he goes to his church, and
-there he meets the Troll bringing in the last half pillar.
-
-“‘Good morning, my friend FIN,’ said he, ‘you have got a heavy weight to
-carry.’
-
-“The Troll stopped, looking at him fiercely, gnashed his teeth, stamped
-on the ground for rage, flew off with the half pillar he was carrying;
-and so Snorre built his church and kept his heart and eyes.”
-
-“Do not believe a word of that,” said Jacob, “there is not a word
-of truth in the story; and as for Esberne Snorre building a church,
-everybody knows he was no better than he should be at any time of his
-life.[22] He was not the man to build a church, much less to give his
-eyes for it.”
-
-“It is true,” said Torkel, “I have been at Kallendborg Church myself; and
-have seen the half pillar with my own eyes. The roof of the nave stands
-on three pillars and a half to this day.”
-
-“More shame to the Kallendborgers, who never had religion enough to
-finish it,” said Jacob, “nor ever will. Do you mean to deny that the
-Devil carried off Esberne Snorre bodily? I think all the world knows that
-pretty well.”
-
-“That shows that he thought him worth the trouble of carrying,” said
-Torkel, “he would never put himself out about carrying off you, because
-he knows you will go to him of your own accord.”
-
-“Come, come, Torkel,” said the Parson, “do not be personal, and take your
-fingers off your knife handle; we cannot spare our cook yet, and you seem
-to like Jacob’s gröd yourself, too, judging by the quantity you eat of
-it; and now, Jacob, do not grind your teeth, but let us hear why you do
-not believe Torkel’s story, which certainly is very circumstantial, not
-to say probable.”
-
-“Because every one knows that it was Lund Cathedral that was built by the
-Trolls, at the desire of the blessed Saint Laurentius,” said Jacob; “it
-was he who promised his eyes for it, and had them preserved by a miracle,
-not by a trumpery trick. Esberne Snorre, indeed; or any Dane, for matter
-of that! A set of infidels! It is only a Swede who would give his eyes
-for the church.”
-
-“I should like to know who Scånia belonged to at the time when Lund
-Cathedral was built,” said Tom, “I do not think it was to the Swedes; and
-I should like to know who took away its archbishopric when they did get
-it, and made the great metropolis of all Scandinavia a trumpery little
-bishopric under the see of Upsala?”
-
-“And I should like to know,” said Torkel, “who made bishops ride upon
-asses, and drink ‘du’ with the hangman. The Swedes give their eyes for
-the church, indeed! That for the Swedes!” snapping his fingers, and
-spitting on the ground.
-
-This was a poser. Jacob was not only in the minority, but clearly wrong
-in matter of fact. At the dissolution of the union of Kalmar, Scånia,
-though situated in Sweden, was a Danish province, and its archbishop was,
-as he always had been, the metropolitan.
-
-At the present time it is quite true that Scånia is a Swedish province;
-but this is a comparatively modern arrangement. In the days when the
-cathedral was built, though geographically a portion of Sweden, it was
-politically a province of Denmark; nor was it till its union with the
-former state that its capital, Lund, was deprived of its ecclesiastical
-primacy. And the treacherous conduct of Gustavus Vasa towards Canute,
-Archbishop of Upsala, and Peter, Bishop of Westeras, and the contumelies
-to which they were exposed, previous to their most unjust execution, are
-a blot even in that blood-stained reign, which Geijer himself, with all
-his ingenuity, cannot vindicate, and which the Norwegians, from whose
-protection the bishops were lured, are continually throwing in the teeth
-of their more powerful neighbours.
-
-Birger himself was a little taken aback, not exactly liking that the weak
-points in his country’s history should be thus exposed to strangers.
-
-“Never mind them, Jacob,” said he, forcing a laugh, “they are only
-Tellemarkers, and know no better. You and I shall see them, some of these
-days, climbing the trees of Goth’s garden themselves.”[23]
-
-This bit of national slang, which fortunately was lost on the Norwegians,
-had the effect of soothing the ire of the sulky Jacob, who drew near to
-his countryman with a happy feeling of partisanship.
-
-“The sooner the better,” said he, bitterly.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI.
-
-THE MOUNTAIN MARCH.
-
- “Onward amid the copse ’gan peep,
- A narrow inlet still and deep,
- Affording scarce such breadth of brim
- As served the wild duck’s brood to swim;
- Lost for a space through thickets veering,
- But broader when again appearing,—
- Tall rocks and tufted knolls their face
- Could in the dark-blue mirror trace;
- And farther as the hunter strayed,
- Still broader sweep its channels made.”
-
- _Lady of the Lake._
-
-
-“How shall it be? Will you look your lay-lines to-day or to-morrow?”
-said the Parson, who, though not a little amused at the tilting between
-the rival champions, and by the manner in which Birger had suffered
-himself to be drawn into the squabble, began to think it had gone quite
-far enough for the future peace and unanimity of the expedition. “Come,
-Jacob, shoulder your knapsack, and march like a sensible Swede.”
-
-“There never was but one sensible Swede,” said Torkel, in a grumbling
-aside, “and that was Queen Kerstin, when she jumped over the boundary,
-and thanked God that Sweden could not jump after her.”[24]
-
-Jacob had sense enough not to hear this laudatory remark on his late
-sovereign’s discrimination, but, with his ordinary phlegm, resumed his
-load and his place in the line of march.
-
-“By the way,” said the Parson, as they resumed their journey, “what was
-it, Torkel, that made you scrape the mud from your right foot and put it
-on your head in that insane manner, just now?”
-
-“I can answer that,” said Birger; “you know that the whole tribe of Alfs,
-white, brown, and black, and the Trolls, and in fact the whole class
-that go under the generic name of Bjerg-folk, or Hill-men, live under
-the earth. To see them, therefore, on ordinary occasions, you must put
-yourself—at least, typically—in a similar condition. That upon which
-you have trod must cover your head; and you take it from the right foot
-rather than the left, partly as being more lucky, and partly because the
-left being a mark of disrespect, would incense the dwarfs, who would be
-sure to make you pay for it sooner or later; in fact they are a dangerous
-race to meddle with at all, they take offence so very easily. I believe,
-however, this is the safest plan, for they are not aware, unless you
-betray yourself, that the veil is removed from your sight. Did you never
-hear the story of the Ferryman of Sund?”
-
-The Englishman, of course, had not heard it, neither had any of the men,
-for the legend is Danish and local; and though anything Danish is much
-better known in Norway than stories or legends relating to Sweden, it so
-happened that it was new to them all, and they closed up to listen to it.
-
-“One evening, between the two lights,[25] a strange man came to the ferry
-at Sund and engaged all the boats: no sooner had the bargain been made,
-than they began to sink deeper and deeper into the water, as if some
-heavy cargo had been put into them, though the astonished boatmen could
-see nothing, and the boats looked quite empty.
-
-“‘Shove off,’ said the stranger, ‘you have got quite load enough for one
-trip;’ and so they had, for the gunwales were not a couple of inches from
-the water, and the boats pulled so heavily, that it was as much as the
-men could do to get to the Vandsyssel side; if the water had not been
-wonderfully calm, they could not have done it at all—but it was calm;
-and all under the wake of the moon it looked as if it was covered with a
-network of silver filigree, to chain down the ripples.
-
-“As soon as the boats touched the Vandsyssel shore, they began rising
-in the water again, as if their freight had been taken out of them, and
-then the stranger sent them back again; and so it went on throughout the
-whole night, and very hard work the ferrymen had, bringing over cargoes
-of emptiness.
-
-“Then the day began to break, and the eastern sky to whiten; and just as
-the coming sun shot up his seven lances to show the world that King Day
-was at hand, the stranger, who had arranged all this, paid the ferrymen,
-not counting the coins, but filling their hats with them with both hands,
-as a boy shovels out his nuts.
-
-“‘What had they been bringing over?’ asked one of them. ‘Cannot you be
-quiet, and know when you are well off,’ said the stranger; ‘you need not
-be afraid of the custom-house dues; they will have sharp eyes to see
-anything contraband in what you have carried over last night; put your
-money in your pockets and be thankful—you will not earn so much in the
-next three years.’
-
-“But in the mean while one of the ferrymen, a sharper fellow than his
-neighbours, jumped on shore, and did just exactly what Torkel did just
-now—put a piece of clay from the sole of his shoe on the crown of his
-head. His eyes were opened at once; all the sandhills about Aalberg were
-alive with little people, every one of them carrying on his back gold and
-silver pots, and jugs, and vessels of every description—the whole place
-looked like one gigantic anthill.
-
-“‘O-ho,’ said he, ‘that’s what you are about; well, joy go with you, we
-shall not be plagued with you any more on our side of the water; that’s
-one good job, anyhow.’
-
-“But it was not a good job for him; it is very possible to be too sharp
-for one’s own good. All his gold money turned to yellow queens,[26]
-and his silver money to chipped oyster-shells, and he never got rich,
-or anything more than a poor ferryman of Sund, while his companions had
-their hats full of ancient Danish gold and silver coins, and bought ships
-of their own, and went trading to Holland and the free towns, and became
-great men.”
-
-“Upon my word, Torkel,” said the Parson, “you are too venturesome; it is
-just as well that there were no Trolls to be seen just now at the well;
-but you must not try it again, or you will never become a great man, or
-command a ship—not that this would suit you very well, I suppose.”
-
-“Torkel would undertake the command of the _Haabet_, just now, I’ll
-engage, little as he knows about seamanship, if he could only get young
-Svensen out of her,” said Mr Tom, with a knowing grin; to which innuendo,
-whatever it might mean, Torkel playfully replied by kicking out behind at
-him with one foot, after the manner of a donkey. He missed Tom, however,
-to his and Piersen’s intense mirth; but what was the precise nature of
-the joke, there was now no opportunity of explaining, as the descent had
-become so steep that the assistance of the hand was necessary, in order
-to keep their footing.
-
-At a few hundred yards from the dwarf’s well, they had fallen in with a
-little streamlet, running eastward, on a pretty rapid descent, even from
-the first, but which now began to form a series of diminutive cascades,
-leaping in so many spouts from rock to rock, while the ground, over which
-it ran, seemed as if it was fast changing from the horizontal to the
-perpendicular; indeed, had there not been plenty of rocks jutting out,
-and a good crop of twisted and gnarled trunks and roots, many portions of
-the journey might have been accomplished with more speed than pleasure.
-
-The rapidity of the descent soon brought them to the bottom of a deep
-hollow valley, far above the level of the sea, indeed, but low compared
-with the abrupt heights that surrounded it. It was one of those singular
-features in Norwegian scenery, a valley without an outlet; its bottom
-occupied by a deep, black, still lake, whose only drain—if it had any
-drain at all except the porous nature of the soil—was under the surface.
-As the ground rose rapidly on every side, it did not answer to cut timber
-which could never be carried, and the forest here was left in the wildest
-state of desolation. Solid, substantial firs, of ancient growth, were the
-predominant tree; but the soil was rich and the valley sheltered, and
-there was a plentiful sprinkling of birch and wych-elm, interspersed with
-a much rarer tree, the stubborn old oak himself.
-
-Beneath this mingled canopy was a plentiful undergrowth of juniper, and
-enormous ferns. There was a still, calm desolateness about the whole
-scene, for many of the trees were dead, not by accident or disease,
-but from pure old age, and stood where they had withered, or reclined
-against the younger brethren of the forest, exhibiting their torn and
-ragged bark, and stretching forth their bare and leafless arms: the very
-rill—their lively and noisy companion hitherto—seemed to be sobered down,
-and to partake here of the general sadness, as it soaked its still way
-among the rushes and weeds that encumbered its course.
-
-Where it ran, or rather crept, into the lake, a small marshy delta was
-formed of the sand carried down in its course; and here was moored an
-old crazy boat, half full of water, with a couple of old primitive oars;
-the whole had a bleached and weather-stained appearance, well in keeping
-with the general character of the scene. The boat belonged to a sœter
-some three or four miles off, on the western slope of the mountains, and
-was used occasionally by the inhabitants, when, at rare intervals, they
-amused themselves by setting lay lines for the char, for which the lake
-had a local celebrity. The sœter belonged to Piersen’s brother, and it
-was he who had induced Birger to visit the spot.
-
-Having baled out the boat with their mess tins, they pulled out into
-the lake, which turned out to be very much larger than they expected to
-find it. The spot where the boat was moored, and which indeed looked
-like a small, deep, still tarn, was in fact only a bay, or inlet, and
-the whole lake was a body with numerous arms, none of them very large in
-themselves, but making a very large piece of water when taken together.
-
-Of course it had a name; every rock, and stream, and splash of water in
-Norway, has a name of one sort or other; but whatever it might have been,
-it was unknown to the fishermen, and this dark pool was entered into
-their diaries by the appropriate appellation of the “Lake of the Woods.”
-Mountains surrounded it on every side, steep, abrupt, plunging into the
-deep dark water, and wooded from base to summit with a dense black mass
-of wood wherever tree could stand on rock. There was not beach or shore
-of any kind; the mountain rose from the water itself, so steep as to be
-scarcely accessible, and, in many places, not accessible at all. As for a
-bird, Avernus itself could not be more destitute of them. Not a sound was
-heard, except the splash of the cumbersome oar, and the creaking of the
-rowlock, and that sounded so loud, and so out of place in the universal
-stillness, that the rowers tried to dip them quietly, as if they feared
-to awaken the desolate echoes.
-
-“Ah,” said Birger, in a whisper, “this is just the place for the ‘Lady
-of the Lake;’ I hope she will do us no harm for trespassing on her
-territories.”
-
-The men looked uneasy, and a little whispering went on between Tom and
-Piersen, who were pulling, they resting on their oars the while, from
-which the drops trickled off and dripped into the silent water. Tom
-brightened up. “I do not think she will hurt us,” he said; “she had a
-very fine cake from Piersen’s family last Christmas, and she will not
-hurt any one while he is with us.”
-
-“What a confounded set of gluttonous sprites you have in your country,”
-said the Captain; “mercenary devils they are too.”
-
-“Hush, hush, don’t abuse them, at all events while you are on their
-territories. The fact is, the ‘Lady of the Lake’ is the easiest
-propitiated of all the sprites: she is an epicure, too, and not a
-glutton; she likes her cake good, but she does not care how small it is.
-On Christmas Eve you pick a very small hole in the ice, and put a cake by
-the side of it, only just big enough to go through it; and if you watch,
-which is not a safe thing to do if you have any sins unconfessed,[27]
-you may see, not the lady herself, for she is never seen, but her small
-white hand and arm, as she takes the offering and draws it down through
-the hole in the ice. Those see her best who are born on the eves of the
-holiest festivals.”
-
-“That is all nonsense,” said Jacob, “I never could see her at all, often
-as I have looked, and I was born on Easter Eve.”
-
-“Why you precious rascal,” said the Captain, “how could you expect it?
-When were your sins shriven, I should like to know?”
-
-The men were not by any means displeased at Jacob’s rebuff, who seemed
-much more disconcerted by it than the occasion at all required; when
-Birger took up the conversation. “There is danger in that,” said he, “not
-that you should miss seeing the Lady, but that you should suffer for
-your rashness. The fact is,” he continued, turning to his friends, “the
-Lady of the Lake is the impersonation of the sudden squalls which fall
-unexpectedly on open spaces of any kind in mountainous countries, and her
-small white hand and arm are the dangerous little white breakers that
-are stirred up by the gusts, which, though diminutive when compared with
-the mighty rollers of the ocean, very often do draw men down, just as
-the hand draws Torkel’s cake. There is a similar spirit for the rivers,
-called the Black Horse, and another for the sea. This latter is called
-King Tolf, and is represented as driving furiously across the Sound,
-his chariot drawn by water-horses, and cutting right through any ship
-or boat that may lie in his path. But they all signify the same thing,
-in different situations to which their several attributes are very well
-adapted.”
-
-“And that thing is?”
-
-“Death, by drowning.”
-
-“Here are the corks,” broke in Piersen in very indifferent English; “we
-shall have gjep for supper to-day, I see the floats bobbing.”
-
-The corks which he had pointed out were, in reality, a string of
-birch-bark floats, which on being examined, were found attached to lines
-anchored in the very deepest spot of the whole lake; for the gjep, or
-great lake char, unlike any of its congeners, and indeed unlike any
-fresh-water fish whatever, except the common char, the eel, and the
-fictitious mal,[28] is never found but in the deepest waters.
-
-Birger, who was the hero of this fishing, caught the nearest float in the
-crook of his gaff, and began hauling in—evidently there was something,
-for at first the line twitched and twitched and was nearly jerked out
-of his hand; but as he hauled on (and in good truth the line seemed as
-long as if some one, as Paddy says, had cut off the other end of it), it
-came lighter and lighter, and before he had got it in, a large ugly fish,
-three or four pounds weight, with an enormous protuberant belly, lay
-helpless on the surface.
-
-“That’s the fellow,” said Piersen, pouncing on him,—but the fish made
-little effort to get away; it was almost dead before he got hold of it.
-The gjep, though classed as a char by the learned, is as little like the
-bright crimson char of our own lakes or of the mountain lakes of Norway
-as can well be imagined; never met with except in water of immense depth,
-never found out of his hole, never caught except with a still and (so the
-Swedes assert) a stinking bait, he bears the colours and character of
-his local habitation, a sober dark olive brown back, a dark grey side
-shot with purple, which turns black when the fish is dead; no red spots
-or very minute ones, no splashes of red or anything red about it, except
-one bright line along the edge of the fins. The most remarkable point
-about it, its enormous belly, from which it derives its name, _Salvelinus
-ventricosus_, is really no distinguishing mark at all, except of its
-habitat. The fact is, drawn suddenly and against its will from the depths
-of the lake, its air-bladder swells so enormously as to kill the fish,
-and give it that peculiarly inelegant appearance.
-
-Inelegant as it looks, and disagreeable as it is to catch, it is by far
-the best eating of any Swedish fish, and, from its rarity, and from the
-difficulty of catching it, bears, when it is to be had at all, which is
-very seldom, by far the highest price of any fish in the market. In fact,
-to eat it at all in perfection, a man must go after it; it will never
-answer to catch it for amusement; but the men may easily be set to lay
-lines for it while other sports are going forward.
-
-Four or five of these highly prized fish were hauled in one after another
-by Birger, who looked as proud of his exploit as if he had landed a
-schoolmaster.[29] When the lines had been all coiled up and deposited in
-the boat, Birger proposed visiting some rushes that he remembered, in
-a hope of meeting with wild fowl; a hope in which he was disappointed,
-not at all to the surprise of his brother fishermen, for the whole lake
-looked so black and gloomy that no duck of ordinary taste would think of
-pitching there; it was, however, an interesting voyage among the sad and
-silent intricacies of the lake; but it so happened, that in returning
-they took a turn short of their point and wandered into another deep and
-narrow inlet, very like that from which they had started, but still not
-the same.
-
-So like was one spot to another that they had pulled some considerable
-distance before the mistake was found out, and when it was, so much time
-had been lost that they were unwilling to pull back.
-
-“Piú noja un miglio in dietro che dieci in avanti,” said the Captain;
-“let us pull on and see what luck will send us.”
-
-Piersen, on being consulted, as best acquainted with the country, did not
-seem to know a great deal about it, but imagined that if once on shore he
-could cut into the right track; and the fishermen having taken a look at
-their compasses, and the sun, and the wind, what little there was of it,
-decided that at all events the adventure should be tried.
-
-Hardly had this conclusion been arrived at, when the boat grounded on a
-bed of spongy rushes, so like that from which they had embarked, that it
-was with difficulty they could persuade themselves that it was not the
-very same—there was the same little soaking rill, the same mossy, soppy
-turf, and when they had gone on a little further, there was the same
-leaping, sparkling brooklet, bounding from rock to rock, just like that
-by which they had descended.
-
-A good stiff pull it took them to reach the top, and then it was evident
-enough that the spot they had attained was not the same as that from
-which they had descended. There was no hill on the other side, properly
-so called, but a wide smooth plain of light sand, shelving, certainly,
-towards the east, but shelving so gradually, that the declivity was
-scarcely perceptible; it was completely overshadowed by large massive
-well-grown pines, not growing together closely but in patches (as is
-generally the case both in Norway and Sweden), so as to leave grassy
-glades and featherly copse-wood between the groups, but regularly and
-evenly, as if they had all been planted at measured distances. The
-branches formed a complete canopy over head, shutting out both air and
-sunshine, and effectually destroying everything like verdure beneath: the
-tall straight monotonous trunks with a purplish crimson tint on their
-bark, effectually walled in the view on every side, and the whole ground
-was carpeted with a slippery covering of dead pine-leaves.
-
-“I hope this will not last long,” said the Captain, “the place is so dark
-and the air so close and stifling, that it seems like walking through
-turpentine vaults. However, our road lies this way, that is certain,”
-putting his compass on the ground so that it could traverse easily, “and
-at all events we must come to a water-course sooner or later.”
-
-But they did not come to a water-course; whether there were none, the
-sand being sufficiently permeable to sop up the rain, or whether they
-were travelling on the rise between two parallel brooks, did not appear;
-but mile after mile was skated and slid over with considerable fatigue
-and exertion, and the same scene lay before them, and around them, and
-above them. Tall clear branchless stems, with long vistas between them
-opening and closing as they went on, vistas which led to nothing and
-terminated in nothing but the same bare, branchless, dead-looking poles.
-Their compasses and a slight declivity told them that they were not
-travelling in a circle, and their reason enlightened them as to the fact
-that everything except a circle must have an end; but after three hours’
-very hard work and some dozen of tumbles a piece, that end seemed as far
-off as ever.
-
-The only variety was a dead tree, and the only apparent difference
-between the living and the dead was, that in this case the straight
-perpendicular lines were crossed by lines as straight, which were
-diagonal; for the dead trees for the most part reclined against their
-living neighbours, very much to the detriment of the latter. As for a
-bird, it did not seem as if birds could live there; nor could they in the
-close space beneath that dark-green canopy; but every now and then there
-was a tantalizing whirr of wings, as a black-cock threw himself out from
-the topmost branches, and, far above their heads, skimmed along in that
-bright sunshine which could not penetrate to them. This is a favourite
-haunt of the black-cock, for the pine-tops and their young buds are its
-most welcome food, and often render its flesh absolutely uneatable from
-the strong turpentiny flavour they impart to it.
-
-At last, and after they had well-nigh begun to despair, the trees began
-to be thinner. Here and there a patch of sky relieved the monotonous
-black, here and there a sunbeam would struggle down; then a little
-grass, weak and pale, would cast a shade of sickly green over the ashy
-brown of the dead fir leaves, and afford a somewhat steadier footing; a
-patch of birch was hailed with the joy with which one meets a welcome
-friend; cattle paths, deceptive as they are, afforded at least a token
-of civilization: and now the whort and the cranberry began to show
-themselves, and the hospitable juniper too, the remembrancer of bright
-crackling fires and aromatic floors, and—
-
-“Oh, positively we must have a halt now, for the difficulties are over,”
-said Birger, and, though he had plenty of tobacco in his havresac, out of
-sheer sentiment he stuffed his pipe with the dead strippy bark of that
-useful shrub, which is generally its mountain substitute.
-
-A few minutes were sufficient for their rest; breathing the fresh air
-again was in itself a luxury, and treading the firm elastic turf a
-refreshment. As they went on, the landscape began to resume its park-like
-character, glades to open, trees to feather down, gentians to embroider
-the green with their blue flower work, and lilies of the valley to
-perfume the air. They were as much lost as ever, but the country looked
-so like the beautiful banks of the Torjedahl, that they could not but
-think themselves at home.
-
-“This will do,” said Torkel, at last, who apparently had recognised some
-well-known landmark, “we shall soon find a night’s lodging now, and a
-kind welcome into the bargain.”
-
-The track into which he had struck, did not at first appear more inviting
-than any of the numerous cattle-paths which they hitherto passed on their
-way; but Torkel followed it with a confidence which, as it turned out,
-was not misplaced; for it soon widened out into a broad green glade, at
-the further end of which stood a sœter of no mean pretensions.
-
-The portions of cultivated and inhabited land in Norway are almost always
-mere strips, the immediate banks of rivers or of lakes—most of them are
-actually bounded by the forest; and in no case is the wild unenclosed
-country at any great distance from them. Every farm, therefore, has, as
-a necessary portion of its establishment, its sœter, or mountain pasture,
-to which every head of cattle is driven as soon as the grass has sprung,
-in order to allow the meadows of the lower farms to be laid up for hay.
-At these it is often a very difficult thing to get a mess of milk in the
-summer, for almost all the cheese and butter of the kingdom is made at
-the sœters. They are generally abundantly stocked with dairy furniture,
-but, as they are abandoned in the winter, they seldom exhibit any great
-amount of luxury. They consist generally of rude log-huts, of sufficient
-solidity, no doubt, for these logs are whole trunks of pines roughly
-squared and laid upon one another, morticed firmly at the corners, but
-of very little comfort indeed, notwithstanding. They contain generally a
-single room, a chimneyless fire-place, and a mud floor, in most places
-sufficiently dirty, with a few sheds and pens surrounding the main hut.
-
-The present sœter, however, was one of far greater pretensions, it
-was built of sawn timber, and boasted of an upper floor, implying, of
-necessity, a separation between human beings who could climb a ladder,
-and cows and pigs who could not. This projected some two or three feet
-on every side beyond the lower storey, forming at once a shade and a
-shelter for the cattle, according as the weather required one or the
-other, and, in its turn, was crowned with a low-pitched shingled roof,
-whose eaves had another projection of two or three feet, so that, seen
-end on end, it had the appearance of a gigantic mushroom standing on
-its stalk. The dairymen had been men of taste as well as of leisure,
-for the barge-boards which protected its gables were ingeniously carved
-and painted with texts from Scripture, and the heavy corners of the
-projecting upper storey terminated in pendants no less grotesque than
-elaborate. There was one window in each gable and two in the side, the
-sills of which had been planed and painted with some date, text, or
-motto, like the barge-boards.
-
-Round these sœters there are generally some patches of enclosed ground
-where hay is made, or where the more tender of the herds or flocks are
-protected, but here there seemed to be a complete farm; full forty
-acres had been redeemed from the forest, and enclosed by the peculiar
-fence of the country; which, except that it is straight, is in its
-general appearance not unlike the snake fences of America. It is formed
-by planting posts in the ground by pairs at small distances between
-pair and pair, and then heaping a quantity of loose planks and stems,
-and any other refuse timber which comes to hand, between them, the tops
-being kept firm by a ligature of birch-bark or some such material. These
-fences, when they begin to rot, which they do very soon, are the harbour
-of all sorts of small vermin, and are, in fact, the great eye-sores of
-Swedish scenery.
-
-In the present instance, this was pre-eminently the case; not only the
-fences, but everything else, was in a terrible state of disrepair—in
-many places the posts were gone, in others the birch ropes had rotted
-through, and the miscellaneous timber which had formed the fence was
-lying about entwined with a spiry growth of creepers and brambles, a mass
-of rottenness. The house itself was in a more promising state; it was
-evident that it had been partially repaired and put in order, and that
-very recently, for many of the timbers showed by their white gashes, the
-recent marks of the axe, and the axe which had made them was lying across
-the door sill.
-
-Torkel lifted the latch—that was easy, for there was no bolt or lock to
-prevent him—but the place was evidently uninhabited—he looked on Tom with
-a face of disappointment.
-
-“Faith!” said he, “this is too bad. Torgenson told me that the Soberud
-party were to drive their cattle to the fjeld on Thursday last, and the
-weather has been as fine as fine can be. Well! there is no trusting
-people.”
-
-“There is no trusting Torgenson’s daughter, at all events,” said Tom,
-“for I suspect it was from her that you had the information; Lota is
-much too pretty to be trusted further than you can see her; and I have
-no doubt she made some excuse herself for not coming last Thursday. It
-was natural enough too; of course she would not like to come to the sœter
-before young Svensen sailed.”
-
-“The Thousand take young Svensen, and you too!” said Torkel, turning
-round as sharply as if Tom had bitten him in earnest, but catching a grin
-upon the latter’s countenance which he had not time to dismiss, looked
-very much as if he meditated making him pay for his ill-timed joke, when
-a loud, clear voice was heard in the glade below, making the leafy arches
-of the old forest ring with the ballad of master Olaf—
-
- “Master Olaf rode forth ere the dawn of day,
- And came where the elf folk were dancing away,
- The dances so merry,
- So merry in the green-wood.”
-
-Torkel stopped to listen, and Tom laughed.
-
- “The elf father put forth his white hand, and quoth he,
- Master Olaf stand forth, dance a measure with me,
- The dances so merry,
- So merry in the green-wood.”
-
-“Here they come at last,” said Tom; “pretty Lota is not half so false
-as you thought her, Torkel. The _Haabet_ has sailed, I suppose,” added
-he, in a stage whisper. Torkel, however was much too happy to pay the
-smallest attention to his malicious insinuations, but took up the song
-for himself. Whether Lota put any particular meaning on the words of it,
-we will not take upon ourselves to say—
-
- “And neither I will, and neither I may,
- For to-morrow it is my own wedding-day,”
-
-shouted he, at the full pitch of his voice, while the whole party took up
-the chorus—
-
- “The dances so merry,
- So merry in the green-wood.”
-
-By this time the approaching party had emerged from the forest, and came
-along the glade in an irregular procession, putting one in mind of the
-Nemorins and Estelles of ancient pastorals, and all the more so from
-their picturesque costumes. The men wore certainly absurdly short round
-jackets, but they had rows of silver buttons on them, and brown short
-trousers worked with red tape, very high in the waistband, to match the
-jacket, but coming down no further than the calf of the leg, which was
-ornamented with bright blue stockings, with crimson clocks.
-
-The women had all of them red kerchiefs on their heads, the ends of
-which hung down their backs, and red or yellow bodices with great silver
-brooches on them, and blue petticoats trimmed with red or yellow. Both
-sexes adorn themselves with all the silver they can collect; the men’s
-shirt buttons are sometimes as big as a walnut, and on gala days they
-will wear three or four of them strung one under another.
-
-All the party were loaded with the utensils necessary for following their
-occupations in the fjeld; the women were carrying the pails, while the
-men’s loads, which consisted of all sorts of heterogeneous articles, were
-topped with the great iron kettles in which they simmer their milk, after
-the Devonshire fashion, in order to collect the whole of the cream.
-
-There were little carts, too, that is to say, baskets placed upon two
-wheels and an axle, and drawn by little cream-coloured ponies; stout,
-stubby little beasts, very high crested, and with black manes and
-tails—the former hogged, the latter peculiarly full and flowing. A Swede
-generally values his horse according to the quantity of hair on his tail.
-These were loaded—it did not take much to load them—with meal for the
-summer’s gröd, and strings of flad bröd, a few sheep skins, particularly
-dirty, though in very close proximity to the provisions,—and now and then
-the black kettle, which its owner was too lazy to carry. Then came the
-goats and sheep, and the little cows following like dogs, now and then
-stopping to take a bite, when the turf looked particularly sweet and
-tempting—little fairy cows were they, much smaller than our Alderneys,
-finer in the bone, and more active on their legs; they looked as if they
-had a cross of the deer in them. They were all of one colour—probably
-that of the original wild cattle—a sort of dirty cream colour,
-approaching to dun, and almost black on the legs and muzzle.
-
-The party was a combined one, and was bound eventually to several other
-sœters besides this, but they had agreed to make their first night’s halt
-in Torgenson’s pasture, and beside the regular herdsmen and dairymaids,
-as many supernumeraries as can possibly find excuse for going, accompany
-the first setting out of the expedition, which is always looked upon in
-the light of a holiday and a merry-making.
-
-And a holiday and a merry-making it seemed to be, judging by the shouts,
-and screams, and laughter, and rude love-making that was going on among
-the gentle shepherds and shepherdesses of the north; but, for all that,
-there was a good deal of real work too. Sœter-life may be a life of
-pleasure, but it certainly is anything but a life of ease.
-
-The Soberud division, bestial as well as human, evidently seemed to
-consider themselves quite at home; and the cows belonging to it, which
-looked as if they recognised the old localities, roamed at liberty;
-but the parties bound to the more distant mountains were occupied in
-hobbling, and tethering, and knee-haltering their respective charges,
-mindful of their morrow’s march and of the difficulty of collecting
-cattle and even sheep, which, except that they keep together, are just as
-bad, from among the intricacies of a strange forest. Some were forming
-temporary pounds, by effecting rude repairs in the dilapidated fences,
-chopping and hewing, for that purpose, great limbs of trees and trees
-themselves, with as little concern as, in England, men might cut thistles.
-
-Streams of blue smoke began now to steal up through the trees, and fires
-began to glimmer in the evening twilight, while the girls brought in
-pail after pail of fresh milk, and swung their kettles, gipsy fashion,
-and, opening their packages, measured out, with careful and parsimonious
-foresight, the rye-meal that was to thicken it into gröd. Meal is
-precious in the mountains, though milk is not.
-
-Whether the _Haabet_ had sailed, or what had become of poor Svensen, did
-not transpire; but certain it was that the damsels from Soberud, after
-looking in vain for their mistress, were obliged, that evening, to act
-on their own discretion—and equally certain it was that the Parson,
-whose knife had been inconsiderately lent to Torkel on the preceding
-day, was obliged to eat his broiled gjep with two sticks, the knife and
-the fortunate individual in whose pocket it was, being, for the time,
-invisible.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII.
-
-THE HOMESTEAD.
-
- “’Tis a homestead that scarce has an equal,
- Plenteous in wood and corn-fields, with rich grassy meadow and moorland—
- This won my father, long since, in wedding the farmer’s fair daughter;
- Here, at length he grew old, like a summer’s eve calmly declining,
- Here he spent the best years of his life, and dwelt like a king, amid
- plenty.
- Servants he had by the score—men servants to plough with the oxen,
- And maids in the house besides, and children, the joy of their mother—
- Thus sowing and reaping, in comfort, from season to season, abode he,
- Envied by all around—but having the good will of all men.”—
-
- _The Elk Hunters—Runeberg._
-
-
-Sunrise found the whole bivouac in a stir; the habits of the Norwegian
-are always early—at least in the summer time—and many of the parties had
-to travel to the yet distant sœters and wilder uplands: cows are not very
-fast travellers, and the load which a dairyman carries on his back when
-he is bound to those fjelds, which are inaccessible to carts, is by no
-means a light one: ponies sometimes carry the heavier loads, but this is
-not often, as they are useless in the fjeld life, and in the summer are
-generally wanted for posting, as well as for agricultural purposes; the
-loads are generally carried by the men—sometimes by the women even,—and
-the milk-kettle which crowns the pack is alone a weight which few would
-like to carry far, even on level ground.
-
-The white smoke was already curling about the trees in long thin columns,
-and the girls were already bringing in their pails of new milk, a very
-fair proportion of which would be consumed with the morning’s gröd, which
-was already bubbling in the kettles.
-
-Gröd, in high life, means all sorts of eatables that are semi-liquid;
-but in the fjeld it is invariably made thus: the water is heated in the
-great milk-kettle to a galloping boil, and its temperature is raised to
-a still higher point by the addition of salt; meal, generally rye-meal,
-is then thinly sprinkled into it, the great art being to separate the
-particles, so as to prevent them from forming lumps. As soon as the
-contents of the kettle are thick enough for the bubbles to make little
-pops, the gröd is taken off the fire and served up with milk. When that
-milk is fresh, no one need desire a better breakfast; but when, as is
-generally the case, they mix it with milk that has been purposely kept
-till it is curdled over with incipient corruption, in which state they
-prefer it, it is as disgusting a mess as ever attained the dignity of a
-popular dish.
-
-In the present instance they were obliged to put up with fresh milk, no
-other being procurable; and the fishermen, having grilled the remains of
-their gjep (an especial delicacy), and added to it some of the contents
-of their havresacs, sent a deputation, headed by Birger, to invite Miss
-Lota and her hand-maidens to partake of their breakfast. This was a
-proceeding which Torkel regarded with very questionable pleasure. He
-was flattered, no doubt, at the attentions paid to his lady-love by the
-fishermen, who could not speak Norske; but, at the same time, was rather
-jealous of those of Birger, who could.
-
-Lota, however, was in no way disconcerted; she came smiling and blushing,
-indeed, but without any sort of affectation or bashfulness, and listened
-graciously, and without laughing, to the blundering compliments paid her
-by the Englishmen; and without any great amount of coquetry, considering
-the rarity of guardsmen in the Tellemark, to the tender elegance of the
-Swede. Torkel had very good reason to be proud of her, and none at all to
-be jealous, particularly as the knapsacks were already packed up for the
-march.
-
-The fishermen were in no particular hurry: the track to Soberud was
-perfectly known; even if the droves of cows and the flocks of sheep
-that had come up it the day before had not already marked it very
-sufficiently. The way was not long either, for it was but a day’s journey
-to the herds; the breaking up of the bivouac was very picturesque; Lota
-was very pretty, and Birger found her very entertaining. It is no wonder
-that they lingered.
-
-However, the shadows of the trees began to shorten. Party after party
-came up with their merry “farvels;” the songs and the laughter, and the
-tinkling of the bells, sounded fainter and fainter from under the arches
-of the forest; and, last of all, the fishermen, reluctantly shouldering
-their knapsacks, took their journey down the glade; with the exception of
-Torkel, who, having something to adjust about his straps, was not exactly
-ready, and in fact was not seen for a couple of hours afterwards. He did
-not join them, indeed, till the party had made their first halt near the
-banks of a mountain lake.
-
-The halt was called somewhat sooner than usual, for the Captain, who,
-with his gun in his hand and old Grog at his heels, was a little in
-advance, and had first caught sight of the lake, had caught sight also of
-an object floating quietly along in the middle of it, which his practised
-eye at once assured him was that very rare and beautiful bird, the
-northern diver.
-
-He threw himself flat on the ground, an action in which he was implicitly
-imitated by the rest of the party, who, though they had not seen the
-bird, were quite aware that there was some good reason for the caution.
-
-In truth, there are few birds more difficult to kill than the northern
-diver; to the greatest watchfulness he unites the most wonderful
-quickness of eye and motion, and, large as he is, he is fully able to
-duck the flash, as it is called,—that is to say, to dive between the time
-of seeing the flash and feeling the shot.
-
-They retired a hundred yards or so and smoked the pipe of council, thus
-giving Torkel the opportunity of coming up with them.
-
-Torkel was well acquainted with the ground, as was natural, not only
-because the lake was celebrated for ducks and the country round it for
-tjäder, but also because it happened to lie on the mountain track between
-his own home and Torgenson’s farm, a road which business (he did not
-state of what nature) required him to travel very often.
-
-His plan was founded on a well-known characteristic in the nature of
-diving birds: during their dive they cannot breathe, and therefore on
-rising to the surface for a moment or so, they cannot make any immediate
-effort either to dive or to fly. He proposed, therefore, that the Captain
-should conceal himself among the understuff, and that the rest, taking
-different positions about the lake, which was not large, should break
-twigs and slightly alarm the bird, who would naturally edge away toward
-the point occupied by the Captain, and the object being a valuable prize,
-an hour or so was not grudged, as there was plenty of time to spare. The
-party having first reconnoitred their ground, marked the position to be
-occupied by the Captain on the lee side of the lake, and ascertained
-that the bird was still resting on the water, separated, taking a wide
-circuit, lest they should alarm it prematurely.
-
-The Captain, with his gun ready cocked, lay at full length on the top of
-a little ledge of rock about six feet high, which sloped away from the
-water, forming a sort of miniature cliff. It afforded very little cover
-apparently—there was nothing between it and the water but a light fringe
-of cranberry bushes—but the cover was perfect to a man in a recumbent
-position, and the Captain being dressed entirely, cap and all, in Lowland
-plaid, the most invisible colour in the world, looked, even if he had
-been seen, like a piece of the rock on which he lay. This place had been
-selected with forethought, for the bird is wonderfully suspicious, and
-will not approach any strong cover at all.
-
-For half an hour after the Captain had wormed himself to the edge of the
-rock, the bird lay as still as if it had been asleep, which it certainly
-was not; at the end of that time there was a quick turn of its neck, and
-its eye was evidently glancing round the margin, but the body remained as
-quiet and motionless as before; there was not a ripple on the water, and
-it was only by observing the diminishing distance between it and a lily
-leaf that happened to be lying on the surface, that even the practised
-eye of the Captain could tell that it was in motion, and was nearing him
-imperceptibly. There had been no sound, nor had the bird caught sight of
-anything; but the Parson had come between it and the wind, and the light
-air, that was not sufficient even to move the surface, had carried down
-the scent.
-
-The Parson had caught sight of the lily, as well as the Captain, and,
-seeing the bird in motion, had halted, leaving it to the scent alone to
-effect his purpose. But in a few minutes it was evident that the bird had
-become stationary, having either drifted out of the stream of scent, or,
-possibly, having imagined that it was now far enough from the suspected
-shore.
-
-A slight snapping of dry wood just broke the stillness; again that sharp,
-anxious glance, and the imperceptible motion, was renewed; another
-and another snap, and now the water seemed to rise against the bird’s
-breast, and a slight wake to be left behind him,—but it was still that
-same gliding motion, as if it were slipping through the water: at last,
-when the distance was sufficiently great to secure against flying, a cap
-was raised, and responded to by two or three hats at different places;
-the bird had disappeared, while the calm, quiet water showed no trace
-of anything having broken its surface. Half-a-dozen pair of eyes were
-anxiously on the look-out, and long and long was it before the smallest
-sign rewarded their vigilance. At last, and many hundred yards from the
-point at which they had lost sight of it, a black spot was seen floating
-on the water, as quietly and unconcernedly as if it had never been
-disturbed. It was, however, a good way to the right of the line in which
-they were endeavouring to drive it; the hats had disappeared, and for
-ten minutes the lake was as quiet as if the eye of man had never rested
-upon it. Then came again the glance, the move, the dive,—then an anxious
-moment of watchfulness,—then a white puff of smoke and a stream of
-hopping shot playing ducks and drakes across the water,—then the sharp,
-ringing report, caught up and repeated by echo after echo,—and there
-lay the bird, faintly stirring the surface, in the last struggles of
-death,—and there was gallant old Grog, plunging into the lake, and making
-the water foam before him in his eagerness. Four or five ducks, which had
-hitherto been basking unseen among the stones, sprang into air; and a
-flight of teal appeared suddenly whistling over the water, and, turning
-closely and together as they came unawares within a dozen yards of the
-Parson, received his right and left shots among them, and, with the loss
-of three or four of their company, scattered hither and thither among the
-trees.
-
-“Hurrah, Grog!—bring him along, boy! bring him along!” shouted the
-Captain; and on every side, instead of the quiet, gliding, creeping
-figures, just peering about the understuff, were seen forms bounding and
-tearing through the cover.
-
-The prize was one which the Captain, a taxidermist and a veteran
-collector, had long desired to possess, and great was the care with which
-it was secured on the top of Jacob’s knapsack; it being entrusted to him,
-as the most phlegmatic of the party and the least likely to be led away
-by any excitement of sport,—for at last they had arrived into something
-like shooting country: the character of the ground was more open and free
-from timber than anything they had seen, and the understuff of whort and
-cranberry was proportionally thicker and more luxuriant; it was ground
-which a dog could quarter without any very great amount of difficulty,
-particularly as it was absolutely free from brambles, and that furze was
-unknown in those latitudes anywhere outside of a greenhouse.
-
-It was more for the amusement of the thing, and for the sake of
-ascertaining the resources of the country, that the party extended
-themselves into a line and beat their way onwards, for it was too early
-in the year for shooting anything but wild ducks. Game laws in Norway
-exist, certainly, but are utterly disregarded; still the broods of
-grouse were, as yet, too young to take care of themselves, and it would
-have been sheer murdering the innocents to injure the grey hens, which,
-into the bargain, are at this time not fit for eating. This proceeding
-seemed very absurd to Torkel and to Tom, for a Norwegian has no idea of
-preserving the game—in reality, he can eat and relish much that most
-civilized people cannot; but, besides that, he is a selfish animal, and
-the poor lean bird that he secures for himself in spring, is better than
-the fine, fat, plump, autumnal one that he has left for his neighbour.
-
-Hen after hen got up and tumbled away before the dogs, who were too well
-broke to disturb her, had they even been deceived by her antics, but no
-shot was fired to convert her pretence into reality. Now and then, it
-must be confessed, when an old, selfish, solitary cock, as black as a
-hat, and as glossy as a whole morning’s dressing could make him, whirred
-off as if he cared for no one but himself and had not a wife or family in
-the world, he paid the penalty of his selfishness, and fell fluttering on
-the cranberries—deservedly, perhaps; at all events, he left no one behind
-him to lament his fate, for the black-cock is a roving bird, and never
-pairs: but no exclamations of Torkel’s could induce the English sportsmen
-to sever the loves of the smaller description of grouse, and Birger,
-though a Swede—for very shame—was obliged to imitate their forbearance.
-But, every now and then, a blue Alpine hare was knocked over without
-mercy; once an unlucky badger came to an untimely end, and, upon the
-whole, the bags were getting quite as heavy as the men approved of, when
-a light, graceful, elegant roe, for once in its life was caught napping,
-though there had been noise enough, not only from shots, but from talking
-also, along the whole line, to have awakened a far less watchful animal.
-It sprang from a thicker piece of covering than common, which probably
-had been the means of deluding it into staying, in the false hope that it
-could possibly escape the keen scent of old Grog, whose flourishing tail
-said as plainly as tail could speak (and dogs’ tails are very eloquent),
-“look out, boys; I have got something here for you, this time, that is
-worth having.”
-
-Jacob was pretty well strung with hares, and remonstrated against the
-additional load, which was finally slung around Torkel’s body like a
-shoulder-belt, and he was dismissed at once with directions to follow the
-path to Soberud, a place where he was well known, and to prepare, as well
-as he could, for the reception of the party, and their provisioning.
-
-Torkel undertook the mission readily enough, and went off gaily under a
-load of game that would have been quite enough for a pony, casting back
-a knowing look to Tom, who seemed perfectly to understand him, implying
-that he had some project in his head by which he intended to astonish the
-strangers.
-
-The day wore on in this pleasant exercise—perhaps the halt for Middagsmad
-might have been a long one, and the pipe after luxurious; in fact,
-there is not so luxurious a couch in this sublunary world as a heap
-of heather, and no sensation so luxuriously happy as that of basking,
-half-tired, in the warm, pleasant sunshine, after a well-spent morning
-of honest exercise, with our gun beside us, and our dogs half sleeping,
-like ourselves, around us; but the sun was not a very great way from the
-horizon when the party gained the first view of the village which was to
-be their resting-place for the night.
-
-The fjeld was not high, for it had been sloping away gradually to the
-eastward ever since they left the high mountains which surround the Lake
-of the Woods, but, as it almost always does, it terminated abruptly
-in a sort of cliff, portions of which were precipitous, and the rest
-extremely steep. The path which Torkel had taken, following the course
-of a largish brook, had found an easy access to the valley, practicable
-even for the carts of the country; but at the point at which they had
-struck the valley, there was nothing for it but a stiff scramble down the
-face of the hill, a proceeding which their loads rendered anything but
-pleasant and easy. It was a beautiful scene that lay before them, and
-perfectly different from anything they had seen before, though they had
-been passing through scenery of wood and lake ever since they left the
-Torjedahl.
-
-In the present instance the broad, still lake, broad as it was, filled
-up but half the amphitheatre of the wooded mountains. There was an ample
-margin of cultivated land round it, fields rich with the promise of
-autumn, and green quiet meadows; here and there a wooded spur shot out
-from the frame of highlands, forming sometimes a cape or promontory in
-the water, while, in return, narrow secluded valleys would wind back into
-the recesses of the mountains, each with its own little brook and its
-own secluded pastures. Besides the village, there were several detached
-farmsteadings and scattered cottages, all looking trim and tidy and well
-to do in the world, and through the middle of them ran a well-kept but
-very winding road, with a broad margin of turf on each side. The fences
-might have been a dissight a little nearer, for they were the post and
-slab fence so common in the north, but, at the distance, they looked like
-park paling; and the swing poles for opening the gates across the road,
-formed a picturesque feature in the landscape.
-
-Close by the lake-side was the church, a grey and weather-stained
-building, which looked like one solid mass of timber, supporting on
-its steeply-pitched and shingled roof, three round towers of different
-heights, each surmounted with its cross. Dominating over the whole sat a
-huge golden cock, which, newly gilded, glowed in the light of the setting
-sun as if it were a supplementary sun itself. The houses of the village
-were a good deal scattered, but, with the exception of the Præstgaard, or
-parsonage, did not hold out any very magnificent hopes of accommodation
-for the night.
-
-This, however, was of little importance to men whose last night’s abode
-had been the shelter of the thickest tree; and they proceeded, with very
-contented minds, to descend the steep hill-side, in order to reach the
-path they ought to have taken, which they now discovered, far below them,
-winding along the edge of the cultivated ground.
-
-“And now,” said the Captain, as they reached it and rallied their forces,
-which had been a good deal scattered during the sharp descent, “where to
-bestow ourselves for the night? I should like to sleep in a bed, if it
-were only for the novelty of the thing; and here, in good time, comes
-Torkel, who looks as if he had made himself pretty well at home already.”
-
-Torkel, considerably smartened up—however he had contrived it—and
-sporting a clean white shirt-front, like a pouter pigeon, with his
-silver shirt buttons newly polished, came up the church path in close
-conversation with a respectable, fatherly, well-to-do-in-the-world sort
-of farmer, or huusbonde as he was called, in whom, as he introduced him
-by the name of Torgensen, the fishermen recognized the father of the
-pretty hostess of the sœter. Not one word of English could the good-man
-speak, though he looked as like an honest rough-handed English farmer
-as one man could look to another; but he wrung their hands, as if, like
-Holger, he meant to test their manhood by their powers of endurance, and
-smiled, and looked pleasant, which Torkel interpreted to mean that he
-heartily desired to see the whole party under his hospitable roof that
-night, and would be right glad to make them all drunk in honour of his
-roof-tree. And poor Torkel looked so excessively happy, that it was easy
-to see that, in spite of the _Haabet_ and her skipper, he had not only
-sped in his wooing at the sœter, but had contrived to ingratiate himself
-with the elders of the household.
-
-A grand place was that homestead, which, hidden by a projecting point,
-and occupying a secluded valley of its own, had hitherto escaped their
-observation,—a good, snug, wealthy farm it really was, even as compared
-to others in the country; but in Norway, so much cover is always wanted;
-and building—at least timber building—is so cheap, that moderate-sized
-farm-houses, with their appurtenances, are little villages; and the house
-itself looks always larger than it is, as an habitation, because the
-whole upper storey, frequently called the rigging loft, is invariably
-used as a store-room for their provisions, and hides, and wool, and flax,
-and apples, and sometimes corn, in the winter, and not unfrequently as a
-ball-room, when they have eaten out sufficient space in it.
-
-The house, like all the rest, a wooden building with a planked roof and
-gabled ends, was unusually painted. Torgensen, in his youth, had himself
-commanded the _Haabet_, and had traded in her for provisions and corn
-along the coast of Scånia, and from it had imported Scånian fashions.
-Instead of the deep, dull red, which harmonizes so well with the tints
-of the country, he had painted his house in figures, blue, and yellow,
-and white, and black, which had a singular, but, upon the whole, a
-not unpleasant effect. Texts of Scripture in rough black letter, and
-dates, and monograms of himself, and wife, and children, were written
-under every window and every gable; and the barge-boards and ridge
-timber-ends, were carved as elaborately and grotesquely as those of the
-church.
-
-There was but little delicacy in accepting Torgensen’s hospitality; his
-house was large enough for a barrack, and its doors were as wide open as
-those of an inn. A large room, that could not exactly be called kitchen,
-hall, workshop, or dining-room, but served equally for any one of these
-offices (and occasionally for a ball-room also, when the store-room
-was too full to be used in that capacity), was open to all comers;
-half-a-dozen boards, as thick almost as baulks of timber, and placed
-upon trestles that might have supported the house, formed the principal
-table; two great chairs, like thrones, elaborately carved, and looking
-as if they required a steam-engine to move them, stood on a sort of
-dais;—these are not uncommon pieces of furniture in old houses; they are
-called grandfather and grandmother chairs, and are the seats of honour,
-though very seldom occupied at all, unless the master and mistress of the
-house are old enough to have lost their active habits. The more ordinary
-seats were substantial benches, with or without backs, and three-legged
-stools. Here and there was a great chest, a sort of expense magazine for
-stowing away the wool, and the flax, and the skins, which were in process
-of being converted into linen, wadmaal, or shoes, by the farm servants.
-Over these a series of shelves, like an ancient buffet, containing pewter
-drinking-vessels, large brass embossed plates with the bunch of grapes
-from the promised land or the expulsion of Adam and Eve glittering upon
-them in all the brightness of constant polish. Over these, again, were
-slung a row of copper cauldrons and pots; and on the opposite side
-a chest of drawers, carved and painted with grotesque figures, was
-ornamented with heaps of blue and white dishes, and pewter dinner-plates,
-and rows of brass candlesticks.
-
-All this was beautifully clean and tidy, for the Norse men and women keep
-all their cleanliness for their ships and houses, and waste none of it on
-their persons.
-
-A strong aromatic smell pervaded the whole room, from the fresh sprigs of
-fir and juniper with which it was strewn every morning, as old English
-halls were with rushes; it might indeed have well passed muster for
-an English hall in the olden times, but for the absence of the great
-gaping fire-place with its cozy chimney-corner and fire-side benches; the
-place of all this was ill supplied by the pride of Torgensen’s heart,
-which he pointed out before they had been in the room for five minutes,
-and called his “pot-kakoluvne”—a great pyramidal heap of glazed tiles,
-portraying Scripture subjects in Dutch costumes, and doing duty as a
-stove. This being an importation from foreign parts was of course of
-additional value; its pyramidal shape indicated Denmark as the country
-of its manufacture, for in Sweden the corresponding piece of furniture
-is cubical; and both are great improvements on the cast-iron stoves of
-Norway, which get nearly red hot, dry and parch the skin, crack the
-furniture, and fill the rooms with a description of gas, which, whatever
-it may do to a native, ensures to the stranger a perpetual headache.
-
-It is rare to find in Norway a farm, and consequently an establishment
-of the size of Torgensen’s, though in Sweden it is common enough. The
-Odal law, which enforces equal division of property among the children,
-prevents any accumulation of territorial property, and will ultimately
-reduce Norway to a population of agricultural peasants with a commercial
-aristocracy. The homesteads of the old Norwegian nobility are deserted
-and decaying, like their families, but Torgensen had been educated as a
-merchant and shipowner, as elder sons frequently are, and having been
-fortunate in his speculations, had been able to buy out his brothers, and
-to keep up unimpaired the old hospitalities of his father’s mansion; and
-thus fourteen or sixteen farm-servants, and as many girls, with, it must
-be confessed, an indefinite number of children that had found themselves
-by chance in the establishment without any fathers at all, sat daily
-round that mass of timber which was called the meal-board (_mad borden_),
-and supped their daily gröd and drank their daily brandy.
-
-Although the head of so great an establishment, Frue[30] Kerstin—as
-Madame Torgensen was usually called, though in truth she had no great
-right to the title—did not consider herself exempt from household duties;
-in fact she was but the principal housekeeper of the establishment, and
-wore a bunch of keys big enough for an ordinary jail as a badge of this
-distinction. It was not a very easy matter to catch her unprepared, for
-frugality was by no means the order of the house; but this day was really
-an exception to the general rule, and she saw with some dismay the party
-which her husband was bringing home with him. Lota was at the sœter, and
-with her were most of the young girls and, of course, their admirers.
-There had been hay-making at the Præstgaard during the past week, and,
-it being Saturday night, two-thirds of the remainder were dancing and
-drinking there, and thus the party at the homestead being a small one,
-the supper was none of the best. Good humour and real welcome, however,
-supplied all deficiencies, which after all, were more in Frue Kerstin’s
-imagination than in reality. The evening passed off admirably in songs
-and conversation; Torkel was an evident favourite,—and indeed his manly
-character, his ready stories and songs, his fine voice and constant and
-cheerful good humour well entitled him to the distinction, to say nothing
-of a broad strath in the higher Tellemark, and a lake, and a stream, and
-a saw-mill, and a “hammer” as it was called, that is to say, a smelting
-furnace for iron, to which, being the only son, he was undoubted heir, a
-qualification which prudent parents are not apt to overlook; but he had
-evidently risen in their esteem from the fact of his having brought such
-popular characters as English gentlemen to the homestead, and from the
-consideration with which those gentlemen treated him.
-
-Torgensen might have been better pleased had more justice been done to
-his brandy, which was real Cognac and admirable, and might have been a
-little scandalized at the admixture of water, but his broad, jolly face
-never lost that glow of good humour which made his guests feel they were
-doing him a pleasure by drinking his brandy and eating his good cheer. A
-lively conversation was kept up through Birger and Torkel till late at
-night, and when the fishermen, having duly thanked their hostess, after
-the customs of the country, retired to rest in the great square boxes of
-fragrant poplar leaves, they sank into such a mass of eider down, that
-told well for the _ci-devant_ attractions of the Lady Christina.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIII.
-
-THE CHURCH.
-
- “Mighty stands the cross of God,
- Smiling homeward to the soul.”
-
- _Almquist._
-
-
-One reason why the fishermen were so anxious to reach Soberud was, that
-the next day was Sunday, and they wanted a day of rest, and a church
-to go to; and that was not to be met with, on the Torjedahl, nearer
-than Christiansand itself. Hitherto their church had been a remarkably
-tall fir-tree, which had, somehow or other, been overlooked by the
-wood-cutters, and stood some little way within the forest. It had been
-chosen on account of its fancied resemblance to a church spire, as it
-towered above the rest of the foliage; and the lower branches having been
-cut away, and the space round its trunk enclosed and decorated with green
-boughs—as all Swedish churches used to be decorated on high days before a
-royal ordinance was passed which forbade it,—and the ground strewed with
-fresh juniper and marsh-marigolds—as church floors are to this day,—it
-did make a very fair forest church for fine weather; and as all the party
-could sing, more or less, the service was performed a good deal more
-ecclesiastically than it is in some of our English cathedrals.
-
-Norway is not in communion with England; indeed, strictly speaking,
-neither Norway nor Denmark are churches at all,—they are merely
-establishments. Sweden may, by some stretch of imagination and a little
-implicit faith in its history, be considered a church, and is so
-considered by the Bishop of London, who has authorised the Bishop of
-Gothenborg to confirm for him. But though neither the Englishmen, nor
-even the Swedes, considered themselves at liberty to communicate in the
-church of Soberud, there was no reason whatever against their joining in
-either the ottesång or the aftensång (morning or evening service), or
-even against their being present at the högmässe, or communion itself.
-The men, who had no very accurate ideas of theology, had joined in the
-English service very readily, and, indeed, had taken a good deal of
-pains in decorating the forest church, for both Tom and Torkel could
-read English as well as they could speak it; and Jacob pretended to do
-so. They were, however, all of them, extremely pleased at having the
-opportunity of going to a consecrated church.
-
-Perhaps one of the most remarkable features of the country is the respect
-and reverence which all classes pay to their churches, combined with the
-very little effect which religion has on their conduct. Norwegians will
-face all sorts of weather, in order to be present at the högmässe of
-Sunday. Large sums of money—that is to say, large in comparison with the
-wealth of the parishes—are spent upon their churches, which are always
-in perfect repair, and always most carefully swept, and trimmed with
-rushes or green sprigs. A man would lose his character at once, and would
-be shunned by his acquaintance as a hopeless reprobate, if he neglected
-confirmation, or the Lord’s supper. Nothing, indeed, is more common than
-to see, as an advertisement—“Wanted, a confirmed cook or housemaid;”
-which advertisement in no ways relates to the capacities of the servant,
-but simply to her age, it being taken for granted that a person of a
-certain age must have been confirmed. Indeed, the legislature interferes
-with this: few offices can be held by unconfirmed people, or by those
-who are not communicants; and the legislature is only the interpreter of
-public opinion. No man is at present molested for any religious opinions
-he may please to hold; he simply loses his civil rights by seceding from
-the national religion. In fact, Norway is the most complete illustration
-of the establishment principle which exists in the world.
-
-At the same time, education, as it is popularly called—that is to say,
-secular instruction—is almost universal. No one ever meets with a
-Norwegian unable to read and write. It may fairly be said that there is
-no country in the world in which the standard of popular education is
-so high, and the standard of popular morality so low,—where the respect
-for religion is so very great, and the ignorance of religion so very
-profound,—as it is in Norway. Sweden may be second in this paradox, but
-Norway is by far the first.
-
-It is not difficult to account for both these phenomena. Few countries
-suffered more extensive church spoliation in the good old Reformation
-times than Norway and Sweden; and when, after that convulsion, men began
-to gather up the fragments, they had to choose between an ill-paid
-clergy whose social position would be inferior to that of almost all
-their parishioners, and a sufficiently paid clergy with enormous and
-unmanageable parishes. They chose the latter, perhaps wisely, as more
-likely to preserve the character and influence of the church till better
-times should come. They, therefore, grouped the parishes into districts,
-few of which were under ten or twelve miles long, and wide in proportion,
-some very much larger, and one more than a hundred miles in length.
-These districts are a collected group of parishes, whose churches are
-still kept up under the name of Annexkyrker, and service is occasionally
-performed in them, as a sort of protest of their right.
-
-Over these districts they placed rectors (Pfarrherrer), whose revenue,
-though not what we should call large in our country, is, nevertheless,
-greater than that of most of their parishioners; they gave them good
-parsonage houses (præstgaards), and, in almost every case, provided
-a dowager house and farm for their widows. And, while they rendered
-their position an object of competition, they provided that it should
-be adequately filled, by establishing the most searching examinations
-and the most careful provisions. The consequence of this is, that the
-Norwegian clergy are almost invariably very superior people, and, in a
-country where the election is absolutely free, they are very generally
-chosen members of the Storthing; while, in Sweden, they form an integral
-estate of the realm, and possess their own independent house of
-parliament.
-
-In a country where there is so much ceremonial, so much that speaks
-to the understanding of the uneducated by speaking to their eye, it is
-impossible but that the externals of religion should be respected—the
-position of its ministers being such as is calculated to add to that
-respect, and not, as is too frequently the case in Roman Catholic
-countries, such as to diminish from it.
-
-But, from the enormous size of the parishes, the externals are all that
-can possibly come to the majority of the people. The Scandinavian Church,
-learned as its individual ministers may be, is not the teacher of the
-people, nor can it be—no man can teach over fifty miles of country.
-Education, on the other hand, there is plenty of, such as it is; for,
-not only do the frost-bound winters give plenty of opportunity, but the
-Church is the establishment, and the laws of the land are such as to make
-reading and writing necessary to all. At the same time, this education is
-absolutely secular, it has nothing to do with the doctrines of religion,
-and, consequently, nothing with the morals of the people, except to
-increase their power of doing anything. Knowledge with them, as with all
-others, is power: but, disjoined from religion, this is generally the
-power of doing wrong. Whether this be, or be not, a correct solution
-of the paradox, at all events, the fact remains, and it has never been
-accounted for: Norway is pre-eminent in the education of its people, and
-is also pre-eminent in the statistics of crime.
-
-But this is not the external view of the case: the mere visitor in Norway
-would speak of the very religious habits of the people. They certainly
-are a people of religious habits, and will continue to be so as long
-as the externals of religion are preserved with a magnificence and
-ceremonial sufficient to keep up their reverence. But they are, merely, a
-people of religious _habits_—they are not a people of religious feelings.
-The marriage between faith and works with them has been “dissolved by Act
-of Parliament, and neither their faith nor their works are the better for
-it.”
-
-Nothing of this, however, was visible on that Sunday morning, as the
-Parson, when the hospitable and substantial breakfast of the farm-house
-had at last come to an end, walked quietly and musingly along the broad
-natural terrace which led to the church, and commanded a beautiful view
-over the wide valley and its quiet lake.
-
-The church was a good-sized building, with nave, and aisles, and
-transepts, and chancel. It was handsome and striking, but very quaint
-and singular; every part of it was of wood—not planks, but great solid
-beams of absolute timber; centuries had passed over them, and there was
-no perceptible decay,—they were merely weather-stained, and harmonised
-in their colouring; and the whole edifice looked as if the day of
-judgment would find it as firm and as eternal as the Church it was
-built to represent. The whole was a confused collection of acute gables
-and high-pointed roofs, covered with diamond-shaped pine shingles. The
-windows were small, square-headed, and few in number, barely enough,
-indeed, to give light to the interior, and in no way contributing to the
-architectural beauty of the church. No Norwegian ever breathes more fresh
-air than he can help, or thinks of opening his church windows; it is not
-very often that he opens even the windows of his house.[31]
-
-The sharp roofs, which are almost universal in the Norwegian churches,
-though extremely ornamental, especially where, as in the present case,
-they are shingled, are erected not for ornament but for use. It is
-absolutely necessary, in a land where snow falls so abundantly, to have
-such a slope that will not permit it to lodge in any quantities in a
-building which is not inhabited and constantly cleared. Were the roof no
-steeper than those of most of our English churches, the weight of lodged
-snow would soon become sufficient to bear down any strength of timbers
-they could put into it.
-
-Although there was but little of ornament about the windows and
-doors—those more ordinary objects of ecclesiastical decoration—this
-evidently did not arise from want of respect or care for their church;
-for every gable—and there were thirty or forty of them, great and
-small—was decorated with elaborately-carved barge-boards, the ridge
-timber of every one of them projected three or four feet beyond the
-face of the building, and terminated in the head of some nondescript
-animal, particularly ugly, but still the record and evidence of infinite
-pains and labour. The chancel, the nave, and the belfry, constituted
-three separate pyramids, rising one above the other, consisting of from
-three to five stages each, and terminating in round towers, roofed with
-short shingled spires, like so many extinguishers. Each of these carried
-its huge cross, for neither Norwegian nor Swede is afraid of that holy
-emblem; and high on the top of all was the typical cock—and if it did
-not warn all sinners to repent, it certainly was not for want of being
-seen, for its size was colossal, and in its new gilding it glittered in
-the air for miles on every side. At the entrance of the churchyard, on
-the side facing the lake, was a lych-gate, also of solid timber, with a
-roof broad enough to shelter a whole funeral. The gate itself, which,
-when shut, formed a stile, was shod with iron spikes, to prevent the pigs
-from burrowing under. By the side of it was that satire upon Norway, the
-evidence of Karl Johann’s fruitless attempts to stem the tide of national
-habits—the stocks—of course unemployed—at least, so far as their legal
-purpose went;—they formed, however, a very comfortable seat, upon which
-Birger was balancing himself backwards and forwards, and trying to cross
-one foot over the other. The other fishermen, as decent as they could
-make themselves up for Sunday—which was rather dingy, after all, compared
-with the bright colours of the peasants’ dresses—lounged about, watching
-the assembling congregation.
-
-It wanted some time to service, but there were scattered here and there
-about the churchyard several parties, who had already been for some time
-on the ground. Sunday as it was, they had brought with them their garden
-tools, and their waterpots, and their baskets of plants, or papers of
-seeds, and had tucked up their smart embroidered petticoats, or turned
-back their shirt-sleeves, according to their sex, and were busily
-employed about the graves.
-
-These were not oblong mounds of turf, like the graves in our English
-churchyards, but raised borders with iron edging, and were, for the most
-part, pictures of neat and tidy gardening; wild flowers very often were
-all that grew there, little blue gentianellas, or lilies of the valley,
-such as might be met with anywhere in the open fjeld; more often than
-all, that innocent little white trailer, the anthemis cotula, which they
-call Balder’s eyebrow, and to which they attach a peculiar sanctity;
-but, even if they were wild, they always bore the traces of care and
-cultivation. Now and then a rose would be woven into the semblance of a
-cradle, or an edging of convolvolus major, twining round its supports,
-would form a pyramid or a canopy, with its fragile blue flowers already
-fading, though so early in the day, perhaps an apt type of those who lay
-below them.
-
-In no place does the Norwegian appear to so great advantage as when
-busied about the graves of his family; these are cared for by all who
-cherish the memory of the dead, as their occupants would be were they
-still on earth. Appointments are often made among distant members of
-a family, and little parties are arranged to meet at the grave of a
-common relative; the first object of all these is invariably to trim its
-flowers. These are not sad or solemn meetings; they are rather joyful
-reunions, much as if the families were visiting the house of their
-relation, instead of his grave. They are not even dressed in mourning,
-for their meetings are continued long after the time of mourning is
-passed: it is a sort of sober festivity. Much of the good that exists in
-the Norwegian character—their family affection, their patriotism, their
-attachment to their native country throughout all their wanderings,—may
-be traced to their graves.
-
-Suddenly, the bells struck up, and every man removed his hat, bowing to
-the church as if returning its salutation. Other people, besides the
-funeral parties, now began to collect from different quarters; here and
-there a stray cariole rattled up to the churchyard gate, and an old
-grandmother or two was brought along in one of the queer-looking little
-carts of the country; but the people of Norway are anything but vehicular
-in their habits; indeed, except the main roads—and these are very few
-indeed—the country is in no ways calculated for wheeled carriages.
-
-Boats were a much more fashionable mode of progression; several of these
-were already seen approaching from different quarters of the lake,
-pulled by two or four oars, and containing a cargo of many-coloured
-petticoats, which looked, in the distance, like bunches of variegated
-tulips. Every Norwegian, man or woman, learns to row almost as soon as he
-learns to walk, and every Norwegian knows something of the principles of
-boat-building; and very elegant little craft, of the whale-boat build,
-they frequently turn out.
-
-“Hallo!” said Birger; “we are in luck. I knew it was Communion Sunday,
-but we are to have a lot of christenings besides. Look at the little
-white bundles in their chrism-cloths, and the elegant white satin bows.
-I do believe they would none of them consider their children baptized
-without those white bows.”
-
-“Have you Christening Sundays, then?” said the Parson.
-
-“Not always: in many places the clergy set their faces against them. But
-the Norwegian is a gregarious animal: he dearly loves a set feast, and
-hospitably considers the more the merrier. In these country-places you
-will often find not only Communion Sundays, but Christening Sundays, and
-Wedding Sundays, and—”
-
-“And funeral Sundays?” suggested the Captain.
-
-“And funeral Sundays—you need not laugh, I mean what I say; in the winter
-we have a little frost here, hot as it is now,—and frost, compared to
-which your English frost is but a summer’s day. They cannot very well
-bury their dead in the winter, so they very frequently freeze them, and
-keep them till the frost breaks up. Whenever that happens it is of course
-necessary to bury immediately all that have died since the beginning
-of the winter, and thus—though I suspect you asked that question in
-pure joke—it really does happen, that besides gregarious communions,
-christenings, and weddings, they have gregarious funerals also.”
-
-The bells now began to “ring in,” and that portion of the congregation
-who were not related to any of the little white bundles in satin bows, or
-were not destined to be godfathers or godmothers to them, came stumbling
-into the church, and arranging themselves as best they could on the
-benches.
-
-To those coming in from the blaze of day outside, the interior appeared
-perfectly dark, so that the people were actually feeling for their
-places. The little square windows looked like dots of light against the
-black walls, but as the eye accustomed itself to the darkness, the scene
-came out by degrees: the tracery of the chancel screen—the great crucifix
-seen over it—the altar beyond, heavy with carving and gilding—the font
-just within the screen—the pulpit just without it—then the congregation
-themselves became visible—the men on one side of the nave, the women
-on the other. It was high mass; for though the Scandinavian Church be
-reformed, she still retains the ancient expressions.
-
-The short hymn which begins the service had closed, and the priest in his
-wide-sleeved surplice—mäss skjorta—was standing by the altar, while the
-Candidatus marshalled in the porch a little procession of the christening
-parties. When all was ready they entered the church, the congregation
-singing, as they advanced towards the chancel, one of the numerous hymns
-from the Bede Psalmer—to which little book, unpretending as it is, the
-people owe nearly all the very small acquaintance with the doctrines of
-their Church, which they possess.
-
-In our service we recognise but two parties, the priest and the
-people—the English choir being, theoretically, at all events, merely
-the leaders of the people’s responses; whereas, in Scandinavia there
-are three distinct divisions of the service—the prayers of the priest,
-the responses of the choir, and the hymns of the people; which last are
-collected and arranged for seasons and occasions, in their Bede Psalmer,
-a book which, as they all sing more or less, most of them have at their
-fingers’ ends.
-
-While this was proceeding, the Candidatus threw open the richly-carved
-doors of the chancel screen and admitted the christening party into the
-choir, arranging them round the font which stood at its entrance. The
-whole service was very like our own, except that, after the exhortation,
-the priest proclaimed his own commission to baptize, in the words of the
-three last verses in St. Matthew’s gospel, before reading the gospel from
-St. Mark which is used in the English Church; and afterwards announced
-the value of the Sacrament itself in the words of St. John—(chap. 3. v.
-5, 6). Before the act of baptism, the priest laid his hand on the head
-of each child, severally, and blessed it; then, after sprinkling it three
-several times as he pronounced the name of each of the three Persons in
-the Trinity, he stepped forward to the doors of the choir, and presented
-the new Christian to the congregation, saying, “In the name of the Holy
-Trinity, this child is now, through holy baptism, received as a member
-of the Christian Church, and hath right given him to all the privileges
-joined therewith: God give His grace, that he, all the days of his life,
-may fulfil this his baptismal covenant.”
-
-After a general thanksgiving for the new birth of the children, and a
-general exhortation to the sponsors on the subject of their duties, the
-congregation struck up another hymn from the Bede Psalmer, while the
-children were carried round the altar, which does not stand, as in our
-churches, close to the well, but has a passage left behind it, possibly
-for this purpose, the sponsors depositing on it their offerings as they
-passed.
-
-In the meanwhile the priest, kneeling on the altar steps, was invested
-by the Candidatus and Kyrke Sånger (precentor) with the mässe hacke,
-a crimson velvet chasuble, embroidered in front with a gold glory
-surrounding the Holy Name, and behind with a gold floriated cross. He
-remained kneeling, while the Candidatus, paper in hand, went down the
-nave, noting those who intended to present themselves at the communion,
-in order to be certain that none should partake of it who had not
-previously given their names to the priest for approbation, and attended
-the early service of confession—called communions-skrift. This was not
-so very difficult to do, though none of the congregation had left the
-church; for each intended communicant wore something black or grey about
-him, in memory of the Lord’s death. When this survey had been completed,
-the priest rose, and facing the people, intoned the general thanksgiving,
-and then turning again to the altar, made his confession alone, in the
-name of his flock, the congregation itself being silent, though the
-choir, at the occasional pauses, chanted the Kyrie Eleeson. He then
-placed on the altar the “Oblaten Schalten,” or wafer basket, the silver
-flagon, and lastly the chalice and patin, which were brought to him with
-great ceremony, the Candidatus and Kyrke Sånger, who carried them, being
-attended by the whole choir.
-
-The outer doors of the church were then shut, and the Candidatus in his
-black gown and cassock having taken his place on the lower step, the
-priest chanted the Gloria in Excelsis, the choir taking it up after the
-first sentence.
-
-After the consecration, the communicants were arranged in four divisions;
-the married men, and the married women, the single men and the single
-women; these knelt in the centre, while the non-communicants stood
-round them chanting softly the Agnus Dei, and bowing their heads as
-the elements were administered to each communicant, which was done
-individually, as with us.
-
-There was then a general thanksgiving and a Hallelujah by the choir;
-after which the priest dismissed the congregation with his benediction,
-making the sign of the cross towards them in the air. This form, which
-was universal throughout three kingdoms scarcely more than a hundred
-years ago, has almost entirely disappeared from the Swedish Church,
-disused rather than forbidden; but many of the old customs which in
-Sweden have become obsolete, in Norway are religiously kept up. And
-besides this, politics have something to do with the matter; there is
-always a great affectation of Danish peculiarities, such as dressing the
-church with green boughs on Whitsuntide, among those who are not over
-well affected to Sweden. These and many similar ceremonials retained
-in Norwegian churches are punishable by fine or deprivation; but the
-people will have it so, and the priests are very willing to indulge
-them,—members of Storthing and law-makers as many of them are.
-
-As for theology, the people are profoundly ignorant of that, while the
-priests themselves, who, nine out of ten, are learned divines,—thanks to
-the severe examination at Christiania which generally weeds out one half
-of the candidates every year,—are almost always politicians enough to
-borrow their churchmanship from Denmark, are just as much Grundtvigites,
-or Mynsterites, according as their bias is high or low, as if they lived
-in Copenhagen itself.
-
-After the conclusion of the service the fishermen were lounging
-homewards, taking their time, and enjoying the weather, and the views,
-and the sunshine, and the Sunday quiet, and upon the whole, though all
-of then ardent sportsmen, by no means sorry for a day of regular rest,
-when the Pfarrherr himself, accompanied by his Candidatus overtook them.
-The Candidatus was a long, tall youth, fresh from college, conceited and
-shy at the same time, who looked, as Birger afterwards observed, as if he
-smelt of the midnight oil; but the Pfarrherr was a gentleman-like man,
-with a broad, good-humoured, fresh-coloured face, looking more like an
-English old-fashioned squire than anything else. He had been priest of
-Soberud for many years, and being a regular anti-Swede, was very popular.
-He had represented the district in several Storthings, and was likely to
-do so in many more, though he did belong to the commercial party, which
-in Norway, as in America, is aristocratic and tory, in opposition to the
-country party, who in those nations are the radicals.
-
-In addition to this, he was the probst, or rural dean, which was a
-fortunate circumstance for him—for being an enthusiastic admirer of
-Grundtvig, he was a great deal too much of a ritualist and antiquarian
-for the continually receding Swedish Church, and, under other
-circumstances, could hardly have failed in being brought up before the
-Church Committee at Christiania, for his little peculiarities; though
-it is a fact that most of the ecclesiastical members of Storthing, who
-composed it, thought, felt, and, if they dared, would act, precisely as
-he did.
-
-He spoke English readily enough—indeed, English is to the educated
-Norwegians what French is to us,—and, as a matter of course, invited the
-fishermen to share the hospitalities of the præstgaard. This, however,
-would have been a mortal offence to poor Torgenson, who, though he could
-not speak to his guests one single word except through an interpreter,
-would have been deeply scandalized, and, indeed, would have felt lowered
-in the eyes of his countrymen, had they deserted him. The Parson,
-however, being a professional man, was an exception, and Pfarrherr
-Nordlingen carried him off in triumph, Torkel promising to bring over
-his knapsack to the præstgaard.
-
-The præstgaard was not so large and rambling a building as the hall,
-but was infinitely more comfortable; highly-polished birchen furniture,
-and well-stored bookcases, gave it an air of habitableness. The room
-into which they entered was the summer parlour, whose French windows,
-shaded by gauze curtains, were wide open, looking on a broad lawn and a
-sparkling little stream beyond it; a good sprinkling of juniper twigs
-took off, in a great measure, from the bare look of the carpetless floors
-which always strikes an English eye. It is a great absurdity, in a
-country which is not favourable for sheep, and whose woollen manufactures
-seldom go higher than the wadmaal, that the duty upon English woollens
-should be so absurdly high. But the fact is, the Storthing is so entirely
-in the hands of the democratic, or country party, that anything beyond a
-class legislation is hopeless. The idea is not that all the people should
-have warm blankets, but that the democratic and agricultural majorities
-should work up inferior wool. Weaving by hand is an agriculturist’s
-winter work.
-
-The Priestess Nordlingen, as she was called, a smiling, pretty-looking
-woman, much younger than her husband, was occupied in laying the cloth
-for aftonsmad, assisted by the dowager priestess, who lived now on the
-other side of the little stream, but being on excellent terms with her
-late husband’s successor, spent a good deal more of her time in her
-old home than she did in her new one.[32] Servants they had, both of
-them, in plenty, for the præster are among the richest in the land; but
-no Norwegian wife is above acting as butler and housekeeper, and no
-Norwegian damsel, fröken though she be, is above waiting at table. It
-does not seem quite the thing to an English gentleman, to have the ladies
-waiting upon him; but certainly in the Norwegian grammar, if they have
-one, the masculine is more worthy than the feminine.
-
-Forest life is pleasant, but a contrast is pleasant also, and the Parson,
-as he lay back in a peculiarly easy chair, sipping leisurely the dram
-which invariably precedes a Norwegian meal, and which, in the present
-case, was true cognac of unquestionable genuineness and undeniable
-antiquity, considered himself in very great luck indeed; in fact, much
-as he admired the rude abundance of the hall, he infinitely preferred
-the quiet elegances of the præstgaard. He made some such observation to
-Nordlingen.
-
-“Yes,” replied he, “the Reformation has injured the Church cruelly, as an
-endowment, and has cut off five-sixths of its clergy; but we individual
-præster have not much to complain of as regards ourselves.”
-
-“You must have pretty severe duties, though.”
-
-“Well, they are not severe, because they cannot be done. My parish was
-originally six; these have been thrown together under one. If I had
-half-a-dozen curates, the parish could not be visited, nor the annex
-kyrker properly served; for in former times it supported six priests and
-six deacons; so what one cannot do at all, one soon ceases to distress
-one’s self about. The work is not done, cannot be done, and no one
-expects it to be done. We have work enough—especially those who, like me,
-are elevated to the Storthing,—but it is not ecclesiastical work.”
-
-“Do you know,” said the Parson, “I wonder that, under such circumstances,
-you have no dissenters in Norway; our Wesleyans arose from precisely the
-same cause. The spoliation of our Church having diminished our number
-of priests, and very seriously impaired the discipline which might, in
-some measure, have kept the remainder to their work, the people in many
-districts became heathens, much like your own people, in fact; and when
-teachers rose up among them, men followed them not because they were
-orthodox, but because they were the only teachers to be had. But you have
-some sort of dissenters, too, have you not?”
-
-“O, the Haugerites. Yes—they are not dissenters, either. Hauger held a
-good many doctrines of that arch-heretic, Calvin: New Birth, as distinct
-from Baptism; Predestination, Election, and so forth; but neither he
-nor his followers separated from the Church. In truth, religion is at
-too low an ebb among us for dissent; we have no more strength to throw
-up dissenters, than an exhausted field has to throw up weeds. Hauger
-succeeded, because he was not only a pious, but a practical man; he was
-rich, too; he set up saw-mills and iron-works, and advanced the money;—it
-is no wonder he set up a religious party. But they are going down now.”
-
-“Ah, I understand—what we call in Ireland, soup Christians; and now
-Hauger is dead, the spring has run dry?”
-
-“No not at all—I do not mean to say that the practical turn of his mind
-was not a recommendation to his theology; but though he preached and did
-good, his good offices were not confined to his own followers; his sect
-is subsiding because it has no distinctive tenets, any more than that of
-your Wesleyans. You made a great blunder; by turning Wesley out of the
-Church, you forced him to set up a Church government of his own; it is
-that government, and not his doctrines, which keeps his followers in a
-state of antagonism to a Church with which they have no real doctrinal
-difference. We were not such fools with Hauger; he met with a little
-persecution himself—for we Norwegians are not tolerant,—but we were wise
-enough to leave his people alone, so they did not think it worth while to
-differ, and in fact never did.”
-
-“I think there may be another reason,” said the Parson: “with you a
-sectarian loses his rights of citizenship, by the fact of his being a
-sectarian.”
-
-“Well, and why should he not? by leaving the national Church he makes
-himself a foreigner; we do not persecute him any more than we persecute
-any other foreigners, but we do not allow foreigners to legislate for
-us, neither will we let him, or any man choose which of our national
-institutions he will adhere to and which he will not—and our Church is
-one of our national institutions;—we say to him, and to you alike—you
-are strangers, both of you, you are both very welcome to stay here, and
-to live under the protection of our laws; moreover, we are very ready to
-naturalize either of you, and to receive you as citizens of our country
-if you like, but choose for yourselves; you cannot be Norwegians and not
-Norwegians at the same time. These are the laws, religious and political,
-of Norway, take them or leave them, just as you like, but we cannot let
-you divide them. Now where is the injustice of this?”
-
-“I am sure I will not take upon myself to say,” said the Parson,
-laughing; “supposing always, the State meddles with Church affairs at
-all; and I, as an Englishman, have no right to find fault with you for
-that. But what does your Church itself say to all this; you called
-Calvin, just now, an arch-heretic, what do you say about his followers?
-Besides, it strikes me that there is a little difference of opinion
-between your friend Hauger and St. Paul, on the subject of female
-preachers, to say nothing of his unordained preachers, which all of his
-people were; but that I suppose does not greatly disturb you, as you
-attach so little value to Apostolical Succession.”
-
-This was a hard hit upon poor Nordlingen, who was a most patriotic
-Norwegian, but yet, as a Grundtvigite, was painfully aware of the want of
-divine commission in his Church. It was, however, a random shot of the
-Parson’s, who, speaking of the Norwegian Church as it then was, certainly
-was not aware that the reforms which Grundtvig and Mynster had effected
-in Denmark, had already penetrated to a Church politically divided from
-them. He took the opportunity of the bustle, caused by the servants
-bringing in the aftonsmad, to turn the conversation to less dangerous
-subjects, and occupied the rest of the evening, if not more profitably,
-at least more to the amusement of the ladies of the family, in drawing
-out the solemn Candidatus, who, fresh from his examinations, was brimful
-of theology, which, when once cheated out of his shyness, he was spilling
-over on every opportunity, and mixing, most absurdly, with the ordinary
-subjects of conversation.
-
- The Church of Norway—if Church it can be called—is in a very
- anomalous state. Intensely Erastian, it is dominated over by
- the Storthing, and swayed by the political feelings of the
- country. These, which are called Norwegian and patriotic, are
- really Danish. Norway has never been strong enough, or rich
- enough, since the times of barbarism, to form an independent
- nation of itself: feeling its weakness, it acquiesced readily
- in the dominant position assumed by Denmark, during the Union
- of Kalmar, which grated so much against the feeling of the
- Swedes only because Sweden was conscious of its own innate
- strength and real superiority. When that union was dissolved,
- it left very bitter animosities between the two principal
- nations, which was participated in by Norway, whose feeling was
- with Denmark. These the lapse of time has mitigated, so far as
- the Danes and Swedes are concerned. They have been renewed,
- however, in Norway, by the forcible annexation of that country
- to Sweden, by the Congress of Vienna, in compensation for the
- loss of Finland; and thus the Norwegian Church, politically
- allied to that of Sweden, is affected by that of Denmark.
-
- The original Reformation in Denmark, which involved that of
- Norway also, was exclusively a political movement; that of
- Sweden was political also, but grander interests were connected
- with it. Sweden was a country shaking off a foreign yoke, and
- the Reformation succeeded because the Reformers were patriots
- also. If reformation in religion is to be mixed with earthly
- motives at all, it could not have had a grander alliance; but
- the Reformation of Norway was a mere change of politics. It
- was forced on by the Court against the will of both clergy
- and people—the king, at that time, being nearly despotic. It
- was not resisted; there was too little religion—Romanist, or
- anything else—in the country for the people to feel any sort
- of excitement in the matter. After the fall of Christiern,
- a new religion was thought to be the most effectual mode of
- depressing the remains of his party. A certain German, of the
- name of Buggenhausen, was constituted the leading reformer;
- and, in fact, the Church of Denmark was not reformed, but
- destroyed, and Lutheranism imported in its place, and forced
- upon the nation by an arbitrary sovereign. The consequences
- were precisely similar to those which followed upon many of the
- Reformations in Germany. The Church remained in form, but the
- vital energy had gone from it. Many godly persons it had from
- time to time in its communion, but fewer and fewer as the time
- went on, and the traces it has still left of its vitality are
- few in number.
-
- “Towards the close of the last century,” says Hamilton, “the
- progress of stupor was complete, and vital Christianity seemed
- to have departed from the land; formalism was at its height,
- and, oddly enough, bigotry appeared to accompany it. An attempt
- at revival has been made during the present century, by Dr.
- Mynster, now Bishop of Copenhagen, and by Grundtvig, who
- may to a certain extent be considered as the leaders of the
- high and low Church parties; Mynster taking his stand on the
- doctrines connected with the Atonement; Grundtvig, on the faith
- once delivered to the saints. There does not appear to be any
- opposition between them, any more than there is opposition
- in the doctrines upon which they take their respective stand
- against Indifferentism and Rationalism; but this is the bent of
- their minds and the direction of their teaching.”
-
- Mynster says, in a letter to Oechlenschlager, “I design, God
- willing, to open my mouth, and that in divers ways, certainly
- first to try what echo will answer my voice; but it shall not
- be quite in vain, for I know that I am among the called, and I
- muse day and night in watching and praying that I may be also
- among the chosen.”
-
- “This object,” says Hamilton (_Sixteen Months in the Danish
- Isles_), “he speedily obtained; and from that time till the
- present, there has been no cessation of that gentle, but loud
- and solemn voice, persuading men everywhere to repent. In
- speaking and writing, Christ crucified has been the beginning
- and end, the first and the last.”
-
- Grundtvig, who, like our Keble, was a poet before he was a
- preacher, and who has taught by his poems, no less than by his
- sermons ever since he brought the great powers of his mind to
- bear against Rationalism, some few years after Dr. Mynster
- began to be celebrated. “It seemed to him a sin,” he said,
- “that he should be taken up with Mythology, while the pastors
- of God’s flock were neglecting their duty;” so he stepped
- forward, asserting the Faith against human might and reason.
- His leading text, upon which all his preaching hinges, is the
- Faith once delivered to the saints,—pure and complete from the
- beginning, and incapable of change. “Every change,” he argues,
- “is a corruption, and the office of the Church is simply to
- restore, either by supplying or by lopping off what has been
- superadded to the original Revelation, and to preserve the
- faith in its purity.” His style of teaching, therefore, is
- necessarily traditional. Grundtvig, himself a most powerful
- preacher, has naturally a somewhat exaggerated idea of the
- importance of preaching, as opposed to reading. Preaching, he
- calls the living word. There is a curious mixture of truth and
- fallacy in his idea of never putting the Bible into the hands
- of an unconverted person, because there is no hope that such a
- person can understand it. “It was written for the Church,” he
- says truly; and he infers from this, that it must be expounded
- orally by a Churchman, because “faith cometh by hearing:” and
- from this text he argues, that the Spirit of God does not
- instruct in the reading of the Word. Grundtvig, from the first,
- has been the most uncompromising opponent of Rationalism,
- and his line of argument much more telling and difficult
- to withstand than that of his fellow-worker, Mynster; and,
- accordingly, though now popular, he has not passed through his
- course without getting into difficulties of a personal nature,
- from the opposition of the Rationalist party. He resigned his
- living at one time, and for many years was not a pastor of the
- Danish National Church at all.
-
- These great leaders have their followers and their respective
- schools; but it is much to be feared that the revival which
- they have produced is merely the effect of their own personal
- influence and talent, for there is nothing in the system of
- the Danish Church which can perpetuate it,—that this Church,
- itself severed from the universal Church of Christ, has no
- inherent vitality,—and that, as the influence and name of even
- Calvin could not prevent even his own Geneva from becoming
- Unitarian when other teachers had arisen and his memory had
- faded from the recollections of his people, so the teaching of
- Grundtvig and Mynster is but a temporary revival of Evangelical
- teaching,—the produce of the individual, not of the Church.
-
- The Swedish Church, as distinguished from the Danish and
- Norwegian, has far more pretensions to Churchmanship than
- either of these, though it may have lost more of the externals
- and ceremonial. Its Apostolic Succession has been doubted, and
- certainly the question is not entirely clear. At the time of
- the Reformation, Matthias, Bishop of Strengnäs, and Vincent,
- Bishop of Skara, had been beheaded by Christiern; and on the
- other side, Canute, the Archbishop, and Peter, Bishop of
- Westeras, had been beheaded by his rival, Gustavus,—so that,
- at the final Diet of Westeras, at which the Reformation was
- determined upon, Sweden could muster but four bishops, of whom
- it is said that Bishop Brask only had been duly consecrated;
- two others, Haraldsen and Sommar, were only bishops elect.
- The results of that Diet caused Brask to go into voluntary
- exile, and as all communion with Rome was thereby broken
- off, the question of the Succession hinges on the fact, that
- Gustavus had previously sent the fourth Bishop, Magnussen,
- elect of Skara, to be consecrated at Rome. This fact, which is
- distinctly affirmed by Gejer, has been questioned, though on no
- very good grounds.
-
- The weakness of the Swedish Church, however, does not lie
- here, but in its peculiar connection with the State, which
- is perpetually involving it in secular politics, and as
- perpetually taking from its spiritual character. This defect
- existed before the Reformation just as it does now, and then,
- as now, formed its element of weakness: then, the bishops were
- treated with by contending sovereigns as the most influential
- barons—now, they are tampered with as the most influential
- politicians. Sweden is governed by a king and four houses
- of parliament—the Nobles, the Clergy, the Burghers, and the
- Peasants; and a bill passing any three of these houses becomes
- the law of the land. But, though the houses are of equal
- authority, the value of individual votes must vary inversely as
- the numbers of which those houses are composed: for instance,
- the house of the Nobles contains about 1500 members, and the
- house of the Clergy 80; the value of any single ecclesiastic’s
- vote is, therefore, eighteen times greater than that of any
- nobleman’s vote. The effect of this has been precisely the same
- as the more arbitrary nature of the Norwegian Reformation: the
- Church of Sweden has become—first political, then worldly,
- then Erastian; and, at the same time, the enormous size of
- the parishes operates precisely as it does in Norway,—the
- majority of the people are estranged from their Church through
- sheer ignorance of its doctrines,—the prescribed forms of
- Confirmation, Communion, and so forth, being gone through as
- essentials rather of civil promotion than of eternal Salvation.
-
- It is not a matter of surprise, therefore, that, year after
- year, the Swedish Church is losing some portion of her
- Churchmanship, and degenerating more and more every day into a
- mere establishment. At this point it would have arrived long
- ago, had it not been for Archbishop Wallin, who, not only a
- sound divine, which most of the educated clergy are, but by far
- the greatest poet modern Sweden has produced, has embodied the
- doctrines of the Church in a series of hymns, which now form
- part of the Church service, under the name of “Bede Psalmer.”
-
- Sweden is a musical nation, and these hymns are extremely
- popular. So far as the author can find out, they are the only
- means by which ninety-nine Swedes out of every hundred have any
- knowledge whatever of the Christian doctrine, or in any way
- differ from their Heathen ancestors—the worshippers of Odin and
- the mythology of Asgard.
-
- As a specimen of Wallin’s poetry, we will take his hymn on the
- Creation—a paraphrase of the 104th Psalm,—perhaps as fine a
- specimen of rhythmic illustration as any that exists. We give
- it from Howitt’s translation:—
-
- “Sing, my soul,
- The Eternal’s praise,—
- Infinite!
- Omnipotent!
- God of all worlds!
- In glorious light, all star-bestrewed,
- Thou dost Thy majesty invest,—
- The Heaven of heavens is Thine abode,
- And worlds revolve at Thy behest.
- Infinite!
- Omnipotent!
- God of all worlds!
- Thy chariot on the winds doth go;
- The thunder follows Thy career;
- Flowers are Thy ministers below,
- And storms Thy messengers of fear.
- Infinite!
- Omnipotent!
- O Thou, our God!
-
- “The earth sang not Thy peerless might
- Amid the heavenly hosts of old,—
- Thou spakest, and from empty night
- She issued forth, and on her flight
- Of countless ages proudly rolled,—
- Darkness wrapped her, and the ocean
- Wildly weltering on her lay;
- Thou spakest, and, with glad devotion,
- Up she rose with queenly motion,
- And pursued her radiant way.
-
- “High soared the mountains,
- Glittering and steep,—
- Forth burst the fountains,
- And through the air flashing—
- From rock to rock dashing—
- ’Mid the wild tempest crashing—
- Took their dread leap.
-
- “Then opened out the quiet dale,
- With all its grass and flowers;
- Then gushed the spring, so clear and pale,
- Beneath the forest bowers;
- Then ran the brooks from moorlands brown,
- Along the verdant lea,
- And the fleet fowls of heaven shot down
- Into a leafy sea;—
- ’Mid the wild herd’s rejoicing throng,
- The nightingales accord—
- All nature raised its matin song,
- And praised Thee—Nature’s Lord:
- O Thou, who wast, and art, and e’er shall be!
- Eternal One! all earth adoring stands,
- And through the works of Thy Almighty Hands
- Feels grace and wisdom infinite in Thee!
-
- “And answer gives the sea,—
- The fathomless ocean—
- The waste without end—
- Where, in ceaseless commotion,
- Winds and billows contend;—
- Where myriads that live without count, without name—
- Crawling or swimming in strange meander—
- Fill the deep as it were with a quivering flame;
- Where the heavy whale doth wander
- Through the dumb night’s hidden reign,
- And man unwearied with earth’s wide strife
- Still hunts around death’s grim domain—
- The over-flood of life.
-
- “To Thee! to Thee! Thou Sire of all,
- Our prayers in faith ascend,—
- All things that breathe, both great and small,
- On Thee alone depend.
- Thy bounteous hand Thou dost unclose,
- And happiness unstinted flows
- In streams that know no end.”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIV.
-
-BREAKING UP THE ENCAMPMENT.
-
- “To-day shall be spent in drinking,—
- We need not spare the ale,—
- And we will set sail on the morrow,
- Nor will our good luck fail.”
-
- _Svenska Folk-visor._
-
-
-The whole party found their quarters in the Soberud valley so extremely
-comfortable, and the game so very abundant, that they were readily
-induced to prolong their stay; and the Parson struck up quite a
-friendship with the worthy Pfarrherr, and talked theology with the
-Candidatus. Torkel, who had had long, and, apparently, very interesting
-conversations with old Torgenson, the import of which did not transpire,
-had asked a temporary leave of absence, which was readily granted—the
-Parson having, no doubt, his own suspicions from what he saw at the
-sœter, but prudently holding his tongue about them. Indeed, he was no
-loser; for Torkel’s place, in every respect, except as an interpreter,
-was amply supplied by Karl Torgenson, who, having served his time of
-drill, had been just discharged from the corvette _Freya_, and had
-arrived, somewhat unexpectedly, on the Sunday evening. Karl spoke a
-little English, though not enough for conversation; but, on the other
-hand, he was as good a sportsman as Torkel himself, and much better
-acquainted with the localities of his own home.
-
-Under his guidance, the Parson’s flies lured many a trout from the blue
-waters of the lake; but the best fish—such fish, indeed, as he had never
-before seen—were caught by a discovery of his own.
-
-The lake lying in a broad valley, many of its shores were shelving
-and sandy, or slightly muddy, instead of plumping down in rocky
-sublacustrine precipices, and all these shallows were fringed with
-weeds. Coming home late in the evening, he saw a number of children in
-the water, ladling out, with tins and buckets, and vessels of every
-description, hundreds and thousands of little white glittering fish,
-which were feeding on the weed. These were the young of the fresh-water
-herring, which, whenever they can get them, which is not often, the
-Norwegians make into soup. The full-grown fish are not taken till later
-in the year, and this is never done except by nets, for they will rise at
-no bait of any kind big enough to put on a hook.
-
-The Parson was looking at the little glittering things as they sparkled
-in the moonlight,—and no fish is so brilliantly white as the fresh-water
-herring,—when, amid the shouts and screams of the children, a huge
-trout was tumbled on shore out of one of the buckets. “O! by George!”
-said the Parson to Karl Torgenson, who smiled as if he understood every
-word, “that is worth noting; that fellow came to make his supper off the
-herrings, and having ventured in too far, has got entangled in the weeds.
-There will be some of his great relations come to supper, also, for
-certain. Let us try.”
-
-A light fly-rod, such as the Parson carried, was not the weapon best
-adapted for the purpose; but he forthwith unlooped his casting-line, and
-taking a trace out of his fly-book—for he was never without trolling
-materials—fitted one of the little glittering gwineads on the litch; and
-wading quite as deep as was prudent, and a good deal deeper than was
-pleasant, considering the time of night and the coldness of Norwegian
-waters, he cast beyond the edge of the weeds; the bait had hardly began
-to spin, when a fish took him, such as required all his skill to master
-with his fly-rod, and long and arduous was the struggle before he
-succeeded in leading him captive through an opening in the weeds, and
-drawing him quietly into shoal water.
-
-The fact was, that the whole coast, like that of France during the
-late war, was in a state of strict blockade; the little gwineads, like
-the chasse-marées, were dodging about in-shore, while the great trout,
-unable, from their draught of water, to pursue them into the shallows,
-were grimly cruising about and snapping up any adventurous little
-youngster that showed his nose outside. The fly-rod was too feeble to
-do much execution that evening, for it took half an hour to master a
-fish with it; but the discovery was not lost on the Parson, and the next
-evening saw him with a twenty-two foot cane trolling-rod, commanding, at
-easy cast, the whole fishable water, and supplying the præstgaard, as
-well as the hall, with such trout as they had never dreamt of.
-
-The Captain and Birger were no less assiduous in their own particular
-calling, and from the quantity of game, including deer, which they
-brought in, might very fairly be said to have paid for their keep. The
-fjeld of Soberud was much more open, and better adapted for game, than
-the valley of the Torjedahl and its surrounding mountains, and also, as
-there were fewer thick trees, better adapted for getting at it.
-
-Pleasant as all this was, time wore on, and it became necessary for the
-party to resume their knapsacks and retrace their steps, Torgensen having
-first exacted a promise that they would visit Soberud once more before
-their departure. “Perhaps,” said he, mysteriously, “I may have occasion
-to muster all the friends of my house before the winter comes on, and
-whenever that occasion happens, I hope the present party will honour my
-roof-tree.”
-
-Tom, who interpreted this speech, could not conceive what it alluded
-to, though it seemed to make him very merry; but the mystery, if ever
-there was one, was soon explained by Lota’s blushes, when the Captain,
-on seeing her and the missing Torkel together, as the party arrived at
-the Aalfjer sœter that evening, shook his head at them with a knowing
-smile. In fact, Torkel had made such excellent use of his time, that
-while the party were occupied with the fish and game of the Soberud
-valley, he had contrived to settle, and definitely arrange, with the full
-approbation of Torgensen, that his marriage should take place in the
-autumn. No Norwegian ever thinks of marrying till the work-day summer is
-past; besides, Torkel was making a very good thing of it with his present
-employers, and if he were not, it is not altogether certain that even
-Lota’s attractions would have been sufficient to draw him away from the
-sports in which he was engaged. Apparently, he did not find those things
-which he had to settle with Lota herself, so easy of arrangement as those
-which had been the subject of his discussions with her father; for though
-the first Sunday evening was quite long enough to settle everything with
-him, it took him three or four whole days at the sœter to arrange matters
-with her; indeed, there the party found him when they encamped there on
-their return, and, notwithstanding this, he had so much more to say on
-the last morning, that the fishermen had arrived for some hours at their
-old encampment on the Torjedahl, and had had time entirely to change the
-whole plan of the campaign before they saw anything of him.
-
-During their absence the post had arrived, bringing letters for them
-all; these Ullitz had forwarded, and their first occupation, while their
-attendants were preparing the supper and exchanging news with those who
-had been left behind, was to read their respective letters. Birger had a
-whole heap—which he did not deserve—from a host of relations and friends,
-whom, in his ardour for sport, he had grievously neglected; all of
-these he postponed for a great, square, official looking document, with
-“Kongs ofwer Commandant’s Expedition” written in the corner: this he did
-deserve, for it contained, along with an acknowledgement for his valuable
-portfolio of military drawings, an extension of leave, which the dutiful
-lieutenant had asked for on the plea so well known in the British army,
-“family arrangements.”
-
-“Hurrah,” said the Captain, “here’s a letter from Moodie; he wants us
-to meet him at Gotheborg, where he is bringing down a cargo of elks and
-reindeer, and Northern wild beasts, for the Zoological Gardens; and then
-we are to go back with him, he says, to some place which I can neither
-spell nor pronounce, where, the chances are, we shall get a crack at a
-bear.”
-
-“You have always had a weakness that way,” said the Parson, “I believe
-getting a crack at a bear, as you call it, was your principal reason for
-coming here at all.”
-
-“Well, but Moodie says there is capital fishing on the Gotha; the salmo
-ferox, my boy! what do you think of that? and you know the fish are
-beginning to run small here, there was not a full-mouthed salmon caught
-the last day we fished here, nothing but miserable grauls.”
-
-“Grauls give very pretty sport, though, and as for the salmo ferox, it is
-nothing but an ill-conditioned, over-grown trout, that has got a cross of
-the pike in it, and consequently will take nothing but the spinning bait.
-But I must say I should like to see old Moodie again.”
-
-“Will you go then?”
-
-“Ask Birger.”
-
-“Hey! what?” said Birger, looking up from his letters, which, after all,
-seemed to be more interesting than he had expected. “Moodie? ah! yes!
-that’s the fellow my friend Bjornstjerna mentions; a terrible fellow
-he says, a very Hercules against the wild beasts—there is never a skal
-without him; Bjornstjerna says he had rather have him than a hundred men,
-any day.”
-
-“And who is Bjornstjerna?”
-
-“One of the Ofwer Jagmästerer, the officers, that is, whose business it
-is to call out the peasantry to keep down the wild beasts; he is very
-good authority on such matters, and I vote we accept your friend Moodie’s
-invitation, it is much the best chance we have of seeing sport.”
-
-The Captain looked a little puzzled; he was anxious enough to go, but the
-invitation had been to him and the Parson, and of course had not included
-Birger, whose existence was necessarily unknown to Moodie; in fact, the
-Captain had not thought of that difficulty. Birger, who had spent a
-good part of his leave in England, where he had some friends, burst out
-laughing.
-
-“Ah, that is just your English way, you think you cannot take me, because
-your friend has not sent me a written invitation in due form—that is
-not the way we go on here; my friend’s friend is my friend, and if
-your countryman has not learnt that in the four years during which,
-Bjornstjerna tells me, he has been living in the country, it is high time
-he should learn. When does he drive his flocks and herds to Gotheborg?”
-
-“Why, if we would meet him, we must start directly, for he comes next
-week.”
-
-“Well, why not start directly? come Parson! one river is as good as
-another.”
-
-“Scarcely that,” said the Parson, laughing; “but I do want to see how
-Moodie carries on the war in your barbarous country; so let us go—Tom,”
-raising his voice so as to be heard from below, “when does the next
-steamer sail for Valö?”
-
-“The day after to-morrow, at day-break,” said Tom, whose head was a
-perfect register of naval events.
-
-“That will never do,” said the Parson, who contemplated a farewell visit
-to the Torjedahl salmon.
-
-“Not do!” said Birger, “why it is the very thing. Strike the tents
-to-morrow, early,—down the river without stopping at Christiansand
-Bridge,—run alongside the steamer, take our berths,—stow our goods,—and
-then we shall have half the day to land and visit our stores at Ullitz’s,
-kiss Marie, and make what changes we want in the baggage department. I
-must take my uniform for Gotheborg; we are not ashamed of our uniform in
-our country,” he added, significantly nodding at the Captain, who, like
-most English soldiers, was rather addicted to mufti; “and you too will
-want more baggage, now that you are going into a civilized country.”
-
-“Do not let Torkel hear you say that. He considers Christiansand the
-emporium of fashion and the centre of civilization. By-the-bye, what are
-we to do with our men? I will not leave Torkel behind,—I have quite an
-affection for the fellow.”
-
-“Leave Torkel behind!” said Birger; “why should you? you do not think
-the Swedes will eat him, do you? I mean to take Piersen myself; these
-Norwegians, rascals as they are, all of them, are a great deal smarter
-and handier in forest work than our Swedes; their education fits them for
-Jacks-of-all-trades; they get kicked out of doors, with a pack on their
-back, at ten years of age, to earn their livelihood, and learn smartness
-and knowledge of the world,—and they do learn it, and precious scoundrels
-they grow up:—however, they answer our purpose, for they can turn their
-hands to anything.”
-
-At that moment Torkel came up, looking a little confused and ashamed of
-himself, and not the less so that the Parson asked significantly for the
-latest news from the sœter of Aalfjer.
-
-His love, however, did not prevent him from being wild to go, as soon
-as he heard of the change of plans—a sentiment in which the rest fully
-participated; indeed there was not a dissentient voice in the camp,
-except that of the boatmen, who were to be discharged at Christiansand,
-and whose fun was thus prematurely cut short. A small pecuniary
-gratification set matters right in that quarter also, and when the
-evening closed on the last day of the encampment, the hopes and eager
-anticipations of a brilliant future had already effaced all regrets for a
-happy past.
-
-The sun was hardly above the horizon, when the whole camp was astir,
-and active preparations for departure were begun. These did not occupy
-any very great deal of time; they had not come up the river in very
-heavy marching order, and there were a good many hands at the work. The
-principal part of it was securing the smoked salmon, of which they had
-now a very fair cargo. This is a very acceptable present everywhere;
-for though salmon are plenty in Norway, the means of catching them are
-very imperfectly understood. There was also a goodly array of forest
-preserves, which, being too heavy for transport, and subject to a heavy
-duty into the bargain from jealous Sweden, were destined to swell the
-ample stores of Madame Ullitz.
-
-While all this was going on, the Parson, rod in hand, took a melancholy
-farewell of his favourite throws, in the course of which he caught two
-fish—both grauls, though, as the Captain took care to remark. By ten
-o’clock everything was ready, and the boats shoved off on their downward
-voyage.
-
-“Well, certainly it is much pleasanter to go with the stream than against
-it, in all the affairs of this life,” said the Captain, as the boats
-closed again, after racing down the upper rapids which had cost them so
-much time and so much trouble to ascend. “Here we have undone in half an
-hour and at our ease, what it took us half a day to do, and with harder
-work than I wish to meet with very often.”
-
-“Not an uncommon thing in this wicked world of ours,” said the Parson.
-“_Facilis descensus_;—you know the rest. However, that which is pleasant
-is not always safe,—so look out. Here we are, at the head of the Oxea
-rapid, and a touch of these rocks, going down stream, you will find a
-very different thing from a touch going up. Give way, boys! let me have
-good steerage-way through the water.”
-
-And he dashed into the very midst of the racing current—rocks, trees, and
-banks flying past him, till, before they seemed to be well in it, the
-three boats were floating side by side in the broad flat below, at the
-lower end of which the encampment had been made on the first night of the
-expedition. A short halt here, which they made, more for the pot than for
-sport, secured them a good catch of trout and a graul or two; and their
-rapid course down the deep, full-flowing stream was resumed, leisurely
-indeed—but so swift was the current under the deceitful show of its calm
-and quiet surface, that notwithstanding a little difficulty at the lower
-rapids, where there was not water enough in the boat canal to float them,
-the sun was still high when they rounded the dockyard point, and opened
-the harbour of Christiansand.
-
-“Hullo, Tom, where is the steamer?”
-
-Tom rubbed his eyes, for he could not believe them, but no amount of
-rubbing will produce a vision of that which is not, and the fact became
-indisputable as they pulled on—there was no steamer in the harbour.
-The Parson, who after all, had left very unwillingly, and rather in
-compliance with the wishes of his companions than in accordance with his
-own fancy or judgment, began to feel sulky; the Captain, who had proposed
-the change, began to feel anxious, and to labour under the weight of his
-responsibility; and even Birger, who had nothing to reproach himself for,
-was not entirely at his ease.
-
-Things however, were not so bad as they had anticipated; there was no
-steamer certainly, but Ullitz, who was lounging on the quay—where indeed
-the good man spent the greater part of his summer hours, looking out for
-travellers and seeking whom he might entertain, and who certainly did
-not approve of a change of plans which deprived him of a very profitable
-commissariat,—informed them that the day had been changed, and that the
-steamer would not arrive till the following evening, nor sail till the
-day after.
-
-“Never mind,” said Birger, “let us have one good supper, and one
-comfortable night’s rest more than we expected; I will be bound we strike
-out something for to-morrow, and after all we shall lose nothing, we may
-as well be at Christiansand as at Gotheborg.”
-
-Ullitz did not say, but looked as if he thought they had much better.
-
-“The sea is as calm as glass,” said Torkel to Tom. “Would not this do for
-eider duck-hunting.”
-
-“It is a great pity that Fröken Lota has to make up her stores of eider
-down now,” said Tom, “and she to be married in the autumn.”
-
-Torkel could afford to laugh, for he knew very well—indeed, none had
-cause to know it better, he having supplied a good half of them—the
-extent of Miss Lota’s eider stores. All this was an aside, and Tom
-resumed aloud, “To be sure, there could not be better weather, we shall
-not have ripple out in the haaf[33] any more than in the fjord; and
-besides, we can take some cod-lines, and when we have killed or driven
-off the ducks we can fill our boats with rock cod.”
-
-“What is all that?” said the Captain.
-
-Tom explained.
-
-“Upon my word I think it will do very well; what say you, Birger?”
-
-“Nothing better, I have never been duck-hunting myself, but they say it
-is capital fun; there are three or four fellows of ‘ours’ who always get
-leave in the duck season, and pass a month or two on the islands of the
-Baltic; they say it is first-rate sport—I vote we go.”
-
-And so it was settled, and the details of the expedition were arranged as
-they walked up those sandy deserts of streets which they had traversed on
-the first night of their landing.
-
-Marie received them with smiles, and when she learnt the object of their
-sport, so worked on the Captain’s susceptible heart, that he vowed she
-should have every feather that fell to his gun. The Parson was rather
-affected to Lota, but Torkel, who had been a little stung by Tom’s joke,
-magnanimously transferred the offer to Marie, who, “poor thing, might
-perhaps want the down, and Lota would not know what to do with it, she
-had a great deal more than she could make up already;” which, considering
-his own fame as a hunter, as well as that of young Svensen, between whom
-Miss Lota had been coquetting (so Tom averred) till she ought to have
-been ashamed of herself, was not unlikely to be literally true.
-
- It must be remarked that this is the sporting way of collecting
- eider down. The business way is robbing the nests, which is
- done in spring, and is very slow work—though sufficiently
- dangerous.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XV.
-
-EIDER DUCK HUNTING.
-
- “For now in our trim boats of Norroway deal
- We must dance on the waves with the porpoise and seal;—
- The breeze it shall pipe, so it pipe not too high,
- And the gull be our songstress whene’er she flits by;—
- We’ll sing while we bait, and we’ll sing while we haul,
- For the deeps of the Haaf have enough for us all.”
-
- _Norway Fishing Song._
-
-
-The dawn was yet grey upon the mountains, and the light steaming mist
-was still resting on the glassy surface of the harbour, when the three
-boats slipped off noiselessly from the dockyard point. The fishing rods,
-now useless, had been landed, and the guns and rifles had taken their
-places, while the after-lockers were stored with cod lines and their
-gear, to say nothing of the långref that had done such good service at
-Mosse Eurd, and which was now converted into a spillet. The boats were
-well provisioned—that is almost an invariable rule in Norway, so far as
-quantity goes, but on this occasion, they were provisioned with all the
-delicacies the fair Marie could lay her hands upon; nay, so interested
-was she in the subject, that she came down with the party, in the grey
-of the morning, to superintend the packing herself; and, after carrying
-on a lively conversation with Birger, on the road, endeavoured, in vain,
-to make the Captain understand something or other; her anxiety to convey
-her meaning brought her cheek very much closer to his lips than perhaps
-she intended—how close it was impossible to say, for the morning light
-was still very faint,—in all probability, Birger might have come in for a
-share of the secret, whatever it was, but he was rude enough to burst out
-laughing, and to add something in Swedish, about bribery and corruption,
-which put the young lady to immediate flight.
-
-“You need not look so conceited,” said he, (possibly the grapes were
-sour); “it was not you, it was the eider down she was thinking of.”
-
-No one knows what silence is, who has not been in the North—what we
-call silence, is a perpetual recurrence of a thousand familiar sounds,
-so familiar that the ear does not notice them; the chirp of hundreds of
-birds, and millions of insects go to make up English silence;—perhaps
-within the Arctic circle it may be deeper than that which, at that early
-hour, brooded over the harbour of Christiansand; but even that was a
-silence which made itself to be felt; and the regular and steady roll of
-the oars in the rowlocks, as the boats shot out into the fjord, fairly
-echoed among the cliffs like grumbling thunder. Nothing could be more
-calm and unbroken than the water, which seemed to be hot, for a slight
-steam kept slowly rising from the whole surface, and hung upon it like a
-veil which now began to whiten in the increasing light; every here and
-there a seal would put up his head, like a black oily bead, take a steady
-view of the boats, and then dip under, without a ripple to show where the
-surface had been broken.
-
-“Oars!” said the Captain, in a whisper, as one of these sheep of Proteus
-evinced a little more indiscreet curiosity than his neighbours, and as
-his boat, which had been leading, lost her way, he rose quietly, and his
-rifle thundered through the still air of the morning, as if it had been
-a six-pounder, while its echoes were caught and repeated, crack after
-crack, by a dozen sharp cliffs and wooded islands.
-
-The surface was sufficiently disturbed this time—for the Captain’s rifle
-seldom spoke in vain,—and the seal was struggling in the agonies of
-death; the men stretched out on their oars as if they were racing, but
-before the boat could reach the spot, all was quiet again, and a slight
-red stain in the water was all that remained to tell of the Captain’s
-accuracy of aim. The Captain gazed on the deep blue below.
-
-“It is of no use,” said the Parson, “they always sink, and it is a great
-shame to be firing at that which you cannot get when you have killed it.”
-
-“You used to shoot them, yourself, in Sligo Bay.”
-
-“Yes, I did, but there was a tide there, and we shot them at high water,
-and picked them up when the sands were bare—even then, though, we lost
-a good many, but here there is not a chance; that fellow is food for
-lobsters.”
-
-“Well, I hope the cockneys will profit by it when the next batch goes to
-the London market,” said the Captain, loading his rifle, “but have we no
-tide here?”
-
-“We have no sands that we can make available; but a tide there is, though
-a faint one. Did you ever hear how there came to be a tide in Norway—for
-originally there certainly was nothing of the kind? Thor was on a visit
-to Loki Uttgard, who, in all love, challenged him to drink his great horn
-out, and to turn it over to show there were no heeltaps, as is the custom
-in Norway. Thor had never been conquered yet in drinking, or in anything
-else; in fact, he had the hardest head, inside and out, of any god in
-Norway. He drank, and he drank, but there was no bottom to be found to
-the horn, and Thor put it down with shame, and acknowledged himself
-at last vanquished; but the Uttgarders, who were all giants of a very
-ferocious stamp, stood round, in speechless admiration. Loki had made a
-communication between the bottom of the horn and the sea itself, and what
-Thor had drunk was the ebb.”
-
-“H’m! Hence the fine of a glass of salt and water,” said the Captain, “I
-have often inflicted it, but I never knew the high authority I had for so
-doing. Come, boys, give way for the Haaf.”
-
-But before so doing they had to stop at a shoal, well known to Tom,
-who now began to take the command, while Torkel sank into comparative
-insignificance. It was necessary to lay in a supply of cod-bait, which
-was not to be had in deep water. This was a species of large limpet, that
-clung to the rocks by thousands, and was dislodged by the boat-hooks,
-and stowed away in the balers. At length the swell of the open sea made
-itself to be felt, for ever heaving and setting and rolling along in vast
-mountains, and flashing in spray against the black rocks, though the
-surface was as glassy and unbroken as that of the harbour. The whole
-swell of the North Sea, and of the Atlantic beyond it heaves against
-these coasts, and is never quiet in the calmest weather. The sun, which
-had now risen, gleamed against the white tower of the light-house, and
-flashed back in blinding rays from its lantern, as the boats pulled past
-it into the Haaf.
-
-They had now formed line abreast, at five or six hundred yards distance,
-and were pulling leisurely along, keeping a bright look out on every
-side. Calm as it was, the swells were quite heavy enough to conceal the
-boats entirely from each other as, from time to time, the huge mountains
-rolled between them.
-
-They had proceeded in this manner for about half an hour, without seeing
-anything, except gulls and cormorants—which latter, sitting in the
-water, and rising and falling on the swells, had more than once deceived
-them,—when, suddenly, Birger, who was on the extreme right, pointed with
-his hand to the westward of their course: all eyes were turned in that
-direction, and the line wheeled on Birger, as a pivot, when a dozen
-or so, of black spots were seen on the side of the swell, in the rare
-intervals when the boats and they were both rising.
-
-The centre boat, which was the Parson’s, pulled right on the objects,
-while the flankers having increased their distance to half a mile, pulled
-on some hundred yards in advance of her.
-
-Onward as they came, the black spots grew larger and larger, and the
-distinct outlines of the ducks began to be distinguishable; still they
-sat on the water, rising and falling to the swell as unconcernedly as
-ever.
-
-The flanking boats were already ahead of them, and the Parson, with his
-long gun in his hand, had begun to calculate his distance—which, out
-at sea, is particularly deceptive,—when, with one accord, the dozen
-tails began to wriggle, and at once the whole flock were under water,
-disappearing simultaneously, and as if by signal.
-
-[Illustration: EIDER DUCK SHOOTING.]
-
-The men, who, much to the Parson’s impatience, had been pulling very
-leisurely indeed, now stretched out with all their might, and as they
-shot across the spot lately occupied by the ducks, marked the chain
-of air-bubbles, which tended out to seaward. A signal conveyed this
-information to the Captain’s boat, which pulled into the line to
-intercept them; Birger, who was thus thrown out, closing in with all his
-might, and the Parson following up the track—each stood up as well as
-he could in the roll of the sea, and looked out with all his eyes. Six,
-eight, ten minutes elapsed, and nothing to be seen: it was impossible
-that the birds could be under so long. At last, far to the rear of even
-Birger’s boat, twelve black spots were seen rising and falling on the
-swell as unconcernedly as they were at first. The ducks had headed back
-under water, and the boats had pulled over them.
-
-The same manœuvre was repeated, and with the same result; the centre boat
-approached almost within firing distance, when the twelve tails again
-wriggled simultaneously, and the twelve bodies went under at once. This
-time, however, they rose within shot of Birger’s boat, but before he
-could get his gun to bear on them, they were under again.
-
-This was precisely what was wanted; the only chance of getting a shot,
-at this season of the year, is to make the birds dive till they are
-exhausted: they are said not to duck the flash like the divers—perhaps
-they do not, but, at all events, they are generally under water long
-before the quickest gunner can get a shot at them, and that, practically,
-comes to the same thing.
-
-The dive this time was a short one, though it carried them out of shot,
-for the Captain, catching the line of their chain, had pulled on their
-track, and headed them back to his friends. This time they rose among
-the boats, and one or two attempted a heavy lumbering flight, which was
-speedily put a stop to by the fowling-pieces. The rest dispersed, diving
-each his own way, and pursued by the boats independently.
-
-The object of approaching in a crescent, is to prevent the birds from
-doing this before they are too much exhausted to dive far. A separated
-flock can seldom be marked, inasmuch as it is more difficult to
-catch sight of one black spot than a dozen; and besides, under such
-circumstances, the boats can no longer act in concert. If a flock
-disperses early in the chase, the chances are that not above one or two
-birds will be secured; if kept pretty well together, not above as many
-will escape.
-
-It is a singular thing that eider ducks should be so unwilling to take
-the wing in summer, for, though they rise heavily, they are by no means
-bad flyers; but so long as they have breath to dive, nothing will get
-them into the air; and this peculiarity, which in ordinary weather is
-their preservation, during the calms is their destruction.
-
-The chase was now an ordinary affair, very like rat hunting: the
-birds, confused and dispersed, kept poking their heads up in all sorts
-of unexpected directions, and, as their dives were now short, one or
-other of the quick and experienced eyes was sure to detect them. As for
-missing, when they were once within shot, it was impossible to miss a
-bird nearly as big as a goose, and almost as heavy on the wing. Ten
-out of the twelve were bagged, and two only were unaccounted for, they
-having slipped away during the heat of the chase. The boats then formed
-line-of-battle again, and cruised on in search of other adventures.
-
-Various little episodes occurred, in which one or two rare sea-gulls and
-other birds were brought down, as they hovered round the boats or crossed
-their course. Most gulls, indeed, evince a great deal of curiosity in
-their disposition, and a very dangerous quality this sometimes proves;
-but in this case the murders were committed exclusively for the sake
-of Science (who, by the way, must be a very cruel goddess), for the
-fishermen were a great deal too much of sportsmen to indulge in the
-vulgar gull-murder without object, which is called sport by maritime
-cockneys. Three or four other flocks of eider duck were sighted, and
-chased with various success; some, taking the alarm in time, contrived
-to dive and swim ahead of the boats, so as to elude them altogether;
-some, startled by too rapid approach, dived before they had time to draw
-together, and, breaking their order, appeared so many scattered black
-spots in different directions, most of which were necessarily lost while
-pursuing the others. But these mishaps were not of frequent occurrence,
-and a good heap of great ugly birds had already been collected, when,
-about noon, a light cat’s-paw ruffled the surface, frosting it over with
-little wavelets. At the time when this occurred it was quite unexpected;
-the boats were following a chain of bubbles, and all available eyes being
-fixed on them, no one was looking out into the offing.
-
-In a moment the trace was lost; the birds might have risen, but the eye
-could no longer mark the clear, well-defined, black dot. Ten minutes
-afterwards all was calm again, but the flock were already safe.
-
-“It is all over for to-day,” said Tom, looking anxiously into the offing,
-where a narrow line of darker blue had already begun to mark the hitherto
-undistinguishable boundary of sea and sky; “here comes the breeze
-already.”
-
-And slowly but surely the line crept down, first widening, then throwing
-out ramifications before it; and then the sleepy surface of the sea
-seemed to shudder, as if touched by a cold breath; little wavelets
-began to ripple on the backs of the long swells,—then light airs fanned
-the boats uncertainly, and, at last, a steady breeze set in from the
-southward and westward.
-
-“Up stick, for the cod ground!” said Tom; “we are only wasting time
-here.” And in a couple of minutes the three boats were running away to
-the eastward, under their English lugs, which, having hitherto served as
-tents, were now for the first time applied to their legitimate use.
-
-The end of the chase had left them five or six miles to westward of
-the fjord’s mouth, and as far to seaward, while the fishing-ground was
-a sunken island or shoal, a couple of miles or so from the lighthouse
-near the outer range of islands;—it is called a shoal, and possibly, for
-Norway, it is a shoal; but there is not less than twenty fathoms on any
-part of it.
-
-The boats were slipping along through the smooth water, as if they were
-going up and down the hills of an undulating road; the breeze, though
-very light, was steady, and already the features of the outer islands
-were growing distinct; and Tom was looking out for the bearings of the
-shoal.
-
-“This is all very well,” said the Captain, steering his boat close to
-that of the Parson, “but I have had no breakfast.”
-
-“Then why don’t you set about it; I am sure Marie has not forgotten you.”
-
-“Oh! I will not stand that; why should we make a toil of pleasure? I mean
-to have a regular breakfast, and a pot of hot coffee—why not? we have the
-whole day before us.”
-
-“Well, I do not mind; hail Birger—there is a dissolute island, as Jacob
-calls it, before us; we will boil your pot there.”
-
-Birger was always ready for his grub, or, indeed, for anything else that
-was proposed; and the boats were made fast to some rocky prominences on
-the lea of the island, with a boat-keeper in each, to prevent them from
-grinding one another to pieces.
-
-Strange to say, many of these islets, which are mere rocks, contain fresh
-water, some of them in pools in the rocks, but many in regular springs,
-and in this particular case a very respectable little streamlet trickled
-down a crevice of the rock.
-
-Every beach, rock, and islet on the Norwegian coast is fringed with
-a layer of drift-wood, in pieces of every size, from the great baulk
-which in England would be worth five or six pounds down to the smallest
-splinters. The reason of this is, that each river is continually
-floating down its yearly freight of pines to the sea; these are caught
-by a boom at the mouth,—that is to say, by a floating chain of squared
-pine-stems,—but many dip under this and escape, many escape when it is
-opened to let boats pass, and occasionally a freshet breaks a link or
-draws a staple, in which case the whole boom-full of timber floats out to
-sea at once. All this is irrecoverably lost, for it is illegal to pick
-up timber floating; and a very necessary law this is, or the booms would
-find themselves broken much oftener than they are. Nevertheless, the
-quantity of timber lost annually in that way would pretty nearly supply
-all the wants of all the English dockyards put together. But “it is an
-ill wind that blows nobody any good;”—the wanderer on the sea coast need
-never be without a fire to warm himself by.
-
-“I like this,” said the Captain, as he lay on his back looking up to
-the sky, watching the blue smoke as it came in wreaths above his head.
-“I should like to be a Robinson Crusoe now, with a desolate island of my
-own, like this, where the foot of man has never trod, and—Holloa! What
-the devil have we got now?” he said, jumping up;—“how came these little
-animals here?”
-
-The little animals referred to were half a dozen children, with rakes and
-hay-forks in their hands, who, attracted by the smoke and possibly by the
-smell of the fried ham, were peering over the edge of the cliff like so
-many sea-gulls.
-
-“These are the savages, Mr. Crusoe,” said the Parson, quietly; “but it
-really is a curious thing, so let us climb up the cliff and see what they
-are about.”
-
-The cliff was not difficult to scale, for the edges of the rocks were
-like steps; and at the top a very unexpected scene met their eye: a
-regular hay-field, with the hay in cocks, and five or six men and women
-at work at it; they were carrying their cocks on a sort of handbier down
-to their boats,—great, broad, heavy affairs these were, borrowed from the
-horse-ferry,—and upon these they were building hay-stacks, intending to
-take them in tow of their whale-boats, during the calm, and to bring them
-to the main land.
-
-The form of the island was a sort of cup, of which the cliffs round the
-edge were the highest parts, and the centre, from having no drain, had
-formed a fresh-water lake with a spongy, mossy border,—and this it was
-which supplied the streamlet. The outer rim was bare rock, but between
-these two extremes there was a boggy, black ring of vegetable mould,
-which produced in great abundance a coarse, rank, wiry grass, which the
-people were storing up for the winter, in order to deceive the poor
-beasts into the idea that they were eating hay. Poor as it was, they had
-come out a dozen miles to sea to get it: their boats, four in number,
-including the floating hay-stack, lay snugly in a little bay or inlet,
-on the shoreward side, where the water was comparatively quiet. They
-had evidently taken up their quarters on the island, and established a
-regular bivouac till the work should be finished, for there was a cooking
-place built up with stones, and two or three of the girls were spreading
-out to dry, in the hot sun, the clothes they had been washing in the lake.
-
-“Who would have expected such a marine pastoral,” said Birger.
-
- “Här Necken sin harssa in glasborgen slaar,
- Och Haafsfruar kamma sitt grönskende haar,
- Och bleka den skinande drägten.”[34]
-
-“Heaven forefend,” said the Parson, hastily, “we are mad enough, some of
-us already; and Torkel is in love, which is worse; we do not want to see
-Haafsfruer. Remember Duke Magnus.”
-
-“It was not the Haafsfru that took away the senses of Duke Magnus,” said
-Torkel, “it was the curse of good Bishop Brask, that rested on the family
-of Gustavus from the day when he killed the two bishops and deceived our
-Bishop of Trondhjem, who had given them sanctuary; the whole royal family
-of Sweden have been crazy, more or less ever since, till they turned them
-all out and put our good father Karl Johann in their place.”
-
-Birger shook his head sadly; he was too highly born himself, and too
-aristocratic, not to feel a little shame at the idea of a French common
-soldier superseding the old family of Vasa, sprung, like himself, from
-Jarl Birger; but, for all that, he could not help admiring the worthy old
-king who, by his downright honesty and sincerity and his strict sense of
-duty, had painfully worked his way against all prejudices of rank and
-nationality, and had wound himself into the affections of the people who
-had chosen him. Still he had a kindly feeling for the old and glorious
-race, and though he could neither deny the fact of the sacrilege and
-breach of faith of Gustavus Vasa,—to which all the Norwegians, and many
-of the Swedes also, attribute the hereditary madness of his family,—nor
-indeed, the fact of the insanity itself, which was notorious in Eric his
-successor, in Charles XII., and Gustavus IV., as well as the present
-exiled representative of the family, yet he did not above half like
-Torkel’s allusion to it. The Duke Magnus, whom they were speaking of, was
-the youngest son of Gustavus Vasa, and was the first in whom the symptoms
-of that disease about to be hereditary, had manifested themselves.
-
-The Parson, rather sympathising in his discomfiture, gave a turn to the
-subject by quoting the Swedish version of the Duke’s madness, to which he
-had himself alluded; for the Swedes ascribe it to the love of a mermaid,
-the sight of whom is invariably unlucky and is generally supposed to
-produce insanity.
-
- “Duke Magnus! Duke Magnus! bethink thee well,—
- Answer me not so haughtily;
- For if thou wilt not plight thee to me,
- Thou shalt ever crazy be.
- Duke Magnus! Duke Magnus! plight thee to me,
- I pray you still so freely,—
- Say me not nay, but yes, yes!”
-
-“There is no harm in _these_ mermaids,” said Tom, “for they are as good
-and hard-working a set of girls as any in Christiansand, but I trust we
-shall never meet with the real ones; at least, not just before a voyage.”
-
-“Why not,” said the Captain, “my principal reason for coming here was the
-chance of seeing a mermaid in the only country in which they are still to
-be met with. Have you never seen one yourself, Tom?”
-
-“No, and God grant I never may; they are not seen so often now-a-days as
-they used to be, that is truth. If they are to be seen at all,” he said,
-after a pause, “I must say this is just the time and the weather for
-them; a calm, still, sunny day, with a mist on the water; through this
-they used often and often to be seen in old times, combing their hair,
-or driving their milk-white cattle to feed on the rock weed; sometimes,
-though not so often, they are seen at night, coming and shivering round
-the fishermen’s fires, and trying to entice away the young men and to get
-them to go with them to their deep sea-caves; and those that they carry
-off are never seen again in the upper world.[35] But mermaids are never
-seen except in a still that comes before a storm, and no one ever catches
-a fish for the first voyage after they have seen them.”
-
-“It is just the same with the Skogsfrue,” (the Lady of the Forest,) said
-Torkel; “she is just as unlucky for us hunters, and when she can get any
-young men to go with her, she never lets them come back again. I have
-fancied more than once that I have seen her through the smoke of my fire
-in the wild fjeld, but she was not likely to catch me.”[36]
-
-“Ah! there spoke the bridegroom elect,” said Tom, “but I am not so sure
-of that either: I think, Torkel, I could tell Fröken Lota more than you
-would like her to hear.”
-
-“If you do, Tom, you deserve to be ducked,” said the Captain, “and I will
-help to duck you with my own hands.”
-
-“He may tell what he likes, and what he can,” said Torkel; “but it is
-quite true about the ill-luck in hunting and fishing, which follow the
-sight of the Skogsfruer and Haafsfruer both.”
-
-“Well, we will prove that, after Middagsmad, and there, in good time,
-goes Jacob’s shot, to let us know that all is ready.”
-
-The afternoon was spent in a lazy, lounging way; the shoal, if shoal it
-can be called, where the bottom was evidently jagged rock and the depth
-never less than twenty fathoms, lay just off the island where they were,
-and the boats had but to pull out a cable’s length to be in the very best
-of the ground; but it is not a very exciting amusement to be continually
-hauling in little fish about the size of whiting, as fast as the lines
-could run down. It did not take long to half fill the boats with that
-staple of Norwegian life, rock cod: the hands of the fishermen, hardened
-with forest work as they were, and tanned with the sun, were scarcely
-calculated to stand the salt water and the constant friction; the
-pleasure soon became a toil, and one by one the boats sought the shore of
-the island.
-
-The mermaids were soon characteristically employed in splitting and
-laying out in the hot sun the baby cod, which proved a very acceptable
-present; for this little fish, which swarms in every Norwegian fjord, is
-among the poorer families, the principal winter store, and in nine cases
-out of ten the only sea stock besides rö kovringer (or rye biscuits)
-which a vessel carries. A present, in the strict sense of the word,
-it could hardly be called, for Tom fairly sold his fish, and gravely
-bargained for them with the young ladies, at so many kisses the hundred,
-excluding Torkel from all competition, much to his disgust, by explaining
-to them that as an engaged man he was entirely shut out from the market.
-
-The Parson and Birger were in the meanwhile seated in a niche of the
-rock which formed a natural chaise-longue, sedately smoking their pipes
-and watching the picturesque-looking galliasses, which had endeavoured
-to work out against the mid-day’s spurt of breeze that had by this time
-entirely died away, and which now, with their great sails hanging idly,
-like so many curtains from their yards and gaffs, seemed, as well as the
-fishermen, to be basking and enjoying themselves in the evening sun.
-
-There was no sort of hurry to return. Christiansand had few attractions,
-and excepting Marie (and no one besides Birger could profit by that),
-Ullitz’s house had still fewer. The luggage was all packed, and probably
-by this time on board, their places taken, and their passage paid. Their
-intention was, not to land again but to go along side at once. In the
-meanwhile, a little tired with their morning’s work, they watched with
-half-closed eyes the beautiful and peaceful sunset and the glorious
-rising of the round full moon that threw a path of light across the
-glassy waters.
-
-“How beautiful!” said the Parson, who had just opened his eyes.
-
-“Yes, that is the work of the Ljus Alfar—Lys Alfir they call them
-here,—the Elves of Light. All elves work in metals, and these make a
-silver filagree so fine that it can only be seen by moonlight on a
-background of water. It is the floor of their ball-room, and if we were
-either of us good enough, which it seems we are not, we should see
-the little fairy beings dancing on it. When they are tired, they will
-go to sleep under the leaves of the limes, which tree belongs to them
-especially; the little spots of light which you see in its foliage on a
-moonshiny night are their bright eyes, which they have not yet closed in
-sleep.”
-
-“Really,” said the Parson, “Prospero’s Isle ought to have been placed
-on the coasts of Norway; it would seem that the more scarce the visible
-inhabitants, the more numerous the invisible.”
-
-“O, yes, nature, nature abhors a vacuum, and these Alfar are by far the
-most numerous of all the supernatural beings. The White Elves, or Elves
-of Light, are seldom found out of Norway and Sweden, but the Brown Elf
-you have in Scotland as well. He works in metals of all sorts, though he
-delights most in silver and gold. It is the Brown Elf that is the fitful
-capricious being, which gives their meaning to the words elf and elvish:
-these are the creatures which pinch untidy maids, and drink up the milk,
-and light up their evening candles as Wills’-o’-the-Wisp, and lead men
-into bogs and marshes. When seen, they are dressed in brown jackets with
-crimson binding, and wear brown caps on their heads, whereas the Ljus
-Alfar wear always the helmet of the foxglove, and are dressed in white.
-It is the Black Elves that are malicious, though they often do good
-service to men; they, too, work in metals, but it is generally in iron
-and copper; they make arms and armour too, and sometimes filagree work,
-like the Ljus Alfar, but theirs is always black.”
-
-“Berlin iron?” suggested the Parson.
-
-“Perhaps so; at all events the chain armour that they make is a most
-valuable present, for, though no heavier than filagree-work, or, as you
-say, Berlin iron, it will turn a sword or a shot.”
-
-“The disposition of the elf, then, varies with its colour.”
-
-“Yes, but one characteristic runs through all—all are capricious. All
-may benefit you, some may hurt you, but none can be reckoned upon, and
-that peculiarity, together with their universal horror of daylight,
-gives a key to their allegorical origin.[37] These elves, or dwarfs, are
-the incarnation of mining speculations, a very general form of gambling
-both in Norway and Sweden. Mines are proverbially capricious; it is
-impossible to tell how they may turn out. Occasionally these spirits are
-beneficent in the highest degree, and their _protégés_ become suddenly
-rich, but this is never to be relied on; the best are capricious, and the
-greater number are tricksy; while some—though even these are now and then
-capricious benefactors—are positively wicked and malicious. There, now
-you have my theory of the alfs and alfheim.
-
-“And there is another allegory about them, with a good Christian moral
-to it,” continued Birger, after a pause spent in cherishing the fading
-embers of his pipe; “these alfs are not baptised and have no part in
-salvation, but they are capable of baptism under certain circumstances;
-they are always anxious for it for themselves in their good moments,
-but invariably so for their children, though those instances in which
-they succeed are rare. The Icelandic family of Gudmund are cursed
-with a disease peculiar to their race, which originated—so the family
-tradition goes—in the curse of an alf frue, whom one of their ancestors
-had deceived in this particular. Andreas Gudmund had a child by an alf
-frue: at her earnest request, he promised that it should be taken in the
-church; and when the child was old enough, she duly brought it to the
-churchyard wall, which was as far as she might go herself, for no alf
-may enter consecrated ground. The sound of the bells was torture to her,
-but she bore it, and laid her child on the wall, with a golden cup as
-an offering. But Gudmund, fearing the censures of the Church and the
-reproaches of his friends, would not fulfil his promise. The alf frue
-waited and waited, but the service was over, and the parting bells began
-to ring again. So she snatched up the child and vanished into her hill,
-and neither she nor it were ever seen again under the light of day. But
-from that time forward, the right hand of every Gudmund is leprous, in
-token that their ancestor was forsworn.
-
-“Now all this must be allegory; what should you say was the meaning
-of the spirits of the mine being capable of salvation, and being
-occasionally, though rarely, seen admitted into the Church?”
-
-“I suppose,” said the Parson, “it must be that wealth, though a
-temptation to evil, may be used in God’s service, and that it
-occasionally, though rarely, is so used. ‘Make to yourselves friends of
-the mammon of unrighteousness, that when ye fail they may receive you
-into everlasting habitations.’”
-
-“I think we may as well top our booms,” said the Captain, whose cigar
-was finished; “the people will be all asleep on board the steamer, and,
-besides—”
-
-“Besides what?”
-
-“Why we promised to let Marie have the eider down, and Ullitz’s people
-will be in bed, too. You know we sail at daybreak?”
-
-“O-ho, that’s the business is it? Well, then, call the men together, and
-see that they leave nothing behind them.”
-
-That was soon done, for nothing had been landed beyond the cooking and
-dining apparatus, and the boats dashed along the still fjord, leaving
-behind them three rippling lines of sparkling light, as if the Ljus Alfar
-were dancing in their wakes.
-
-In little more than an hour they were alongside the steamer, where their
-whole travelling paraphernalia had been stowed in their respective
-berths. Of these, the Parson and Birger, tired with their long day’s
-work, were very shortly the occupants; the Captain, more energetic,
-collected the ducks, and, accompanied by Tom and Torkel, landed at the
-wharf; but what Marie said, on receiving so large an accession to her
-stores, and what the Captain said to her, and how he contrived to say
-it, are points upon which history is silent. Certain it is, that when the
-Parson awoke from his first sleep, which was not till the steamer began
-to tumble about on the swell outside, the Captain was snoring loudly in
-the next berth, while the three attendants were equally fast asleep on
-the cabin deck.
-
- While this book was in the press, the author met with “Lloyd’s
- Scandinavian Adventures,” in which there is not only a
- description, but a print of eider duck shooting _under sail_.
- It would be presumptuous in him to go against the experience of
- a sportsman who has resided in these countries for more years
- than the author has months. Possibly in the north, where the
- birds are less hunted, they may be less cautious, and may allow
- a boat to approach them in a breeze. The author can, however,
- write only from personal experience. The foregoing chapter, so
- far as the facts are concerned, is merely a transcript from
- his journal; and as far as his own experience goes, he would
- say, that the setting in of a breeze sufficient to enable the
- lightest boat to carry sail, would utterly preclude all chance
- of success in eider duck hunting.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVI.
-
-THE COASTING VOYAGE.
-
- “Now launched once more, the inland sea
- They furrow with fair augury.
-
- “So brilliant was the landward view,
- The ocean so serene;
- Each puny wave in diamonds rolled
- O’er the calm deep, where hues of gold
- With azure strove, and green.
- The hill, the vale, the tree, the tower,
- Glowed with the tints of evening hour,
- The beach was silver sheen.
-
- “The wind breathed soft as lover’s sigh,
- And, oft renewed, seemed oft to die,
- With breathless pause between.
-
- “O, who with speech of war and woes
- Would wish to break the soft repose
- Of such enchanting scene.”
-
- _Lord of the Isles._
-
-
-If an Englishman can ever enter into the feelings of a Neapolitan, and
-in any way connect the ideas of the _dolce far niente_ with those of
-enjoyment, if he can ever bend that active, energetic mind of his, and
-that restless and industrious Anglo-Saxon body, to realize the faintest
-conception of the “paradise of rest,” in which the Buddhist places the
-sum of his felicity, it will be on board ship, after breakfast, on a
-calm, warm forenoon, and beyond the influence of the Post Office.
-
-[Illustration: SCENE ON THE SOUTH COAST OF NORWAY.
-
-p. 220.]
-
-That these words actually passed through the lips of the Captain, and
-escaped, what Homer calls, the protection of his teeth, we will not take
-upon ourselves to affirm—as indolently he reclined on the paddle-box of
-the _Gefjon_ steamer, with his eyes shut, his muscles relaxed, his arms
-and legs sprawling about in all directions, while the indolent smoke of
-his cigar, that from time to time floated out lazily from between his
-lips, afforded the only sign of life about him; he seemed as if he was
-totally incapable of making any such exertion—but certainly, these ideas
-passed through his mind, and pictured themselves on the light grey clouds
-that proceeded from his mouth.
-
-Breakfast, so far as the English portion of the guests was concerned, had
-long been over, and though some hardy Norseman or persevering Swede was
-still lingering over the scenes of his departed joys, and dallying with
-tempting morsels of raw smoked salmon, or appetizing _caviare_, the first
-great act of Northern daily life might be looked upon as completed.
-
-“You an artist,” said Birger, whose sketching tablet was already slung
-round his neck, and who was looking round him from the bridge, unable to
-choose, in such a panorama of beauty, which of all the lovely views he
-should attempt to transfer to his paper—“You an artist, and asleep among
-scenes like these? you are not worthy of them; as if you could not smoke
-your cigar while the rain was falling, and sleep in the night-time.”
-
-“I was not asleep,” said the Captain, lazily, “I was thinking.”
-
-“Thinking,” said Birger, “look round you, and you may think that you are
-in fairy land, if fairy land, itself, has anything half so lovely. Look
-at that beautiful lake, which we are just opening, on the north—see how
-those wooded capes partly intercept the view, with their soft outline of
-birch, and that long reach of blue water dancing in the sunlight, and
-that little island, a single spot of shade, with its three picturesque
-fir trees, and that dark red rock that overhangs it, with its iron stains
-of brown and yellow starting up from among the bright green foliage; and
-look how the ash fringes the edge of that precipice: get up, and if you
-are too lazy to work, at least admire.”
-
-Really, the scene was a scene of fairy land, such as, in our most
-poetical of moments, we picture fairy land to be. The steamer’s course
-lay among the groups of islands that fringe the southern shore of Norway,
-and these, in that portion of the chain, at least, which lies between
-Hellesund and Lyngör, are, for the most part, bold rocks, clothed with
-every variety of foliage which Norway produces, and, being sheltered
-from the sweep of the sea breezes by the outer chain exhibit that
-foliage in its fullest perfection. The idea usually connected in our
-minds with Norwegian scenery, is that of wild and desolate grandeur; and
-fully is that idea realized in the mountains of the Hardanger and the
-Alpine deserts of the Fille Fjeld—wild, rugged, treeless scenes of utter
-desolation, almost beyond the limits of vegetable life. But it is far
-otherwise with the coasts—nowhere is seen a colouring half so vivid as
-among the sheltered islets of the southern shores; the turf with which
-their glades are clothed is more brilliantly green than anything that we
-have in England, where the grass is invariably interspersed with weeds.
-Take a square yard of any English turf whatever, and you will find in it,
-from ten to twenty different sorts of plants, all of which are, more or
-less, glaucous in their colouring, and these, though at a little distance
-undistinguishable in their forms, yet, blend their hues with the emerald
-green of the grass, and present what, side by side with Norwegian turf,
-would be but a soiled and faded picture. The foliage, too, is far more
-bright and luxuriant than anything in England, even in the interior of
-the country, but as different from our wind-worn and frost-nipt sea-side
-greenery as can well be conceived.
-
-There is no such thing as early spring in those latitudes, or those warm,
-sunny, deceitful days, which tempt forth the young bud and leaflet, only
-to be pinched and shrivelled by the April frosts. Week after week does
-stern winter bind up all nature in its iron fetters; all is still, and
-cold, and dead; and though the sun rises higher and higher, he seems to
-shine without power; and though the days lengthen, and the empire of
-night be invaded, winter still holds on, and the snows look even whiter
-in the stronger light—the Norway of April, is but the Norway of December:
-more bright and more chilly—When all at once, and without preparation,
-the scene is changed—the snows are gone, the ice is broken, the leaves
-are already green, and the country is in the garb of full-blown summer.
-Spring is a season unknown in Norway.
-
-The consequence of this is, that the leaf, which has not begun to spring
-at all till the frost is thoroughly out of the ground and the air free
-from chill, is never blackened, or nipped, or dwarfed in its proportions,
-as it is in England, and therefore preserves, through the short summer, a
-greenness and depth of colouring which with us is unknown.
-
-“There is a beautiful legend about this,” said Birger, as he pointed out
-this peculiarity, “I do not believe in it myself, altogether,” added he,
-smiling, as the recollection of the Tellemarken legends and the sacrifice
-to Nyssen came across his mind; “I will not vouch, myself, for more than
-the allegory, but if we may trust to the fires of Walpurgis Night, my
-countrymen believe it implicitly: ‘Iduna, the goddess of youth, is among
-the Æsir, the guardian of the apples of immortality—gods, like men,
-are subject to decay; but whenever they feel any symptoms of it, they
-renovate their existence by the apples of Iduna. The possession of these
-apples was, as might be supposed, earnestly coveted by the Hrimthursar,
-or Frost Giants, whose territories, called Uttgard, surrounded on every
-side the sea that encompasses the earth. Time was when the earth enjoyed
-a perpetual spring, but Loki, who had not then forfeited his place
-among the gods, attacking, one day, the giant Thjassi, the chief of the
-Hrimthursar, whom he had taken for an eagle, found his hands frozen to
-his plumage.
-
-“‘Thjassi demanded as the price of his liberty that Iduna should be
-betrayed into his hands: this Loki agreed to do, and notwithstanding some
-secret misgivings, contrived to perform his promise; and thus it was that
-the goddess of youth, seduced beyond the influence of Asgard, was seized
-upon by the eagle giant and imprisoned in his castle among the rocks of
-eternal frost.
-
-“‘The gods, who had lost their renovating principle, were growing grey
-and wrinkled; the might of the Thunderer was paralysed, and the wisdom of
-Odin himself, the father of gods and men, was waning; the whole world was
-pining for want of that principle of life which continually restored the
-inevitable decay of nature; Loki himself felt the universal loss which
-the world had sustained, and being as yet not entirely lost to shame or
-callous to rebuke, set himself in earnest to effect the deliverance of
-Iduna.
-
-“‘This—having borrowed from Freya her falcon plumage—he managed to
-effect, and was bringing back the goddess to Asgard, under the guise
-of a swallow, the bird of spring, when the eagle wings of Thjassi, who
-was rushing in pursuit, darkened the air and blotted out half the sky.
-The gods lighted fires round all the walls of Asgard to scare away the
-pursuer, who fell exhausted in the flames and perished under their
-vengeance.
-
-“‘But Skadi, his daughter, determined to revenge her father’s death,
-declared war on Asgard, and carried it on with such success that the gods
-were fain to come to a compromise with her, and she consented to peace on
-condition that she should take for her husband any one of the gods she
-should choose, and should be admitted into Asgard as an equal. From that
-time forward the earth has felt the influence of the Hrimthursar for a
-portion of the year; but their power is at an end[38] on the anniversary
-of that day, when Iduna is delivered from her captivity; and men kindle
-their fires on Walpurgis Night, the 30th of April, in memory of those
-which, kindled on the walls of Asgard, had baffled and destroyed the
-chief of the Hrimthursar.’”[39]
-
-“Ah! by the way, I saw them building up a great bonfire as we rounded
-that point of land, coming out of Hellesund,” said the Captain; “there
-was a heap a dozen feet high, and they had put a whole boat upon the top
-of it.”
-
-“Well, but this is not Walpurgis Night,” said the Parson; “this is St.
-John’s Eve.”
-
-“We do not know much about St. John’s Eve in these parts,” said
-Birger, laughing. “I am afraid our legends are a good deal more Pagan
-than Christian. That which you saw was the ‘Bale-Fire,’ by which our
-people commemorate the death of Baldur, and the boat was his ship, the
-_Hringhorn_. You will see plenty more of them when the night draws
-on;—every town and every village, and almost every hut will have its
-bale-fire, and many of them its boat too. It is a singular thing that
-Pagan legends should have so much more hold on the minds of the people
-than anything derived from their Christian history, but so it is.”
-
-“Not at all singular,” said the Parson; “properly speaking, Norway was
-never converted; it was conquered by a Christian faction, and again
-it was conquered by a court party. The people succumbed to force; but
-in their thoughts and feelings—and therefore in their manners and
-customs—they were what they had been in the days of the sea-kings; and
-now their minds naturally revert to the time when their country was most
-powerful.”
-
-“I will give you a Christian legend, then,” said Captain Hjelmar, the
-Swedish commander of the steamer, who had been for some time talking with
-Birger on the bridge, and now came forward with his hat in his hand,
-after the manner of his country, and told his tale, very fluently, in
-a queer sort of French. This was also after the manner of his country,
-for, though that language is abominated in Norway, in Sweden it is
-much affected by those who would wish it to be supposed that they are
-_habitués_ of the court; and thus it was that though—as it afterwards
-turned out—Captain Hjelmar could speak remarkably good English, he
-preferred addressing Englishmen in remarkably bad French, in order to
-show his court breeding.
-
-“You see that tall rock,” said he, “that looks so black and distant, in
-front of that green island?—that rock really is one of the Hrimthursar of
-whom Lieutenant Birger has been telling you; and when St. Olaf came to
-convert the Norwegians, the giant, who had been bribed by Hakon the Jarl,
-at the price of his young son Erling, whom he sacrificed to him, waded
-into the sea, and put forth his hand to stay the ship, that the saint
-should not approach the shore: but the saint served a higher Power than
-the gods of Asgard, and even as he stood, the giant froze into stone; and
-there he stands to this day, as you see him, with one arm advanced,—and
-there he will stand till the day of Ragnarök, except that once in a
-hundred years, on Christmas Eve, he is restored to life, in order to
-declare to the Hrimthursar that on that day their power was broken for
-ever.”
-
-“Well done, St. Olaf,” said the Captain; “I thought that all his
-conversions were effected by the weight of his battle-axe.”
-
-“Why, you Englishmen acknowledge him as a saint as well as we,” said
-Captain Hjelmar. “Have you not, in your great City of London, a church
-dedicated to him? and is there not also a place called Cripplegate?”
-
-“There certainly are such places,” said the Parson, “but what they have
-to do with one another, or with Norway, is more than I can see.”
-
-“There was a man in Walland, so great a cripple that he was obliged to
-go on his hands and knees, and it was revealed to him that if he should
-go to St. Olaf’s Church, in London, he should be healed. How he got
-there, I cannot tell you; but he did, and he was crawling along, and the
-boys were laughing at him, as he asked them which was St. Olaf’s Church,
-when a man, dressed in blue and carrying an axe on his shoulder, said,
-‘Come with me, for I have become a countryman of yours.’ So he took up
-the cripple and carried him through the streets, and placed him on the
-steps of the church. Much difficulty had the poor man to crawl up the
-steps; but when he arrived at the top he rose up straight and whole, and
-walked to the altar to give thanks; but the man with the battle-axe had
-vanished, and was never seen more; and the people thought it was the
-blessed St. Olaf himself, and they called the place where the cripple was
-found ‘Cripplegate,’ and so they tell me it is called to this day.”[40]
-
-“Faith! I can answer for that part of the story myself,” said the
-Captain; “the place is called Cripplegate, sure enough, but I am afraid
-St. Olaf has long since ceased to frequent it, for we have not heard of
-any miracles done lately in those parts. But what is your story about the
-‘bale-fires,’ Birger, for I see another in process of erection on that
-cape?—that looks like a remarkably good boat they are going to burn in
-it.”
-
-“That legend, like most of those from the Eddas, is purely allegorical,
-and, unlike most of them, is very intelligible. Baldur, among the Æsir,
-is the Principle of Good, and everything that is bright, or beautiful,
-or innocent, is dedicated to him, and among other things, that part of
-the year which begins at Walpurgis Night, when the reign of the frost
-ceases, and ends at this day, the summer’s solstice—that is to say, the
-whole of that time in which light and warmth are getting the mastery over
-cold and darkness. These commemorate the happy days of Asgard, before
-the Principle of Evil had crept in; and had they only continued, the
-whole world would have been by this time glowing in perpetual light, and
-spring, and happiness.
-
-“But Loki himself, one of the twelve of the principal Æsir, became
-envious of this, and was jealous that all the good in the world should be
-ascribed to Baldur; so he resolved to kill him. This the Nornir revealed
-to Baldur in a vision, and the goddess Freya took an oath of everything
-that walked on the earth, or swam the waters, or flew in the air, or
-grew from the ground, or was under it, that they would not hurt Baldur;
-and then the gods would laugh at the revelation of the Nornir, and would
-shoot at Baldur with stones, and masses of iron, and thrust at him with
-their spears, and cut at him with their swords and axes; but they all
-passed him by for the oath’s sake, which all nature had given.
-
-“So Loki said to the mistletoe, ‘Thou dost neither run, nor fly, nor
-swim, nor grow from the ground, nor lie under it; there is no oath for
-thee.’ So he gathered the stem of the mistletoe, and placed it in the
-hand of Hodur, the god of Blindness, and said, ‘shoot, like the other
-gods, and I will direct thy hand:’ and he shot, and Baldur fell dead in
-the midst of the gods, and innocence departed from the earth; and then
-the days which had hitherto been getting brighter and brighter, so that
-darkness had began to fly from the face of the earth, now began to close
-in again, and darkness began to increase.
-
-“In vain did Hermod, the brother of Baldur,[41] undertake the journey
-to the realms of Hela. So much was accorded, that if all nature would
-agree to mourn for the death of Baldur, he should be restored to earth;
-but though everything did so, as the Edda has it, ‘Men and animals, and
-earth, and stones, and trees, and all metals, even as thou hast seen
-everything weep when it comes forth from the frost into the warm air, yet
-the giantess, Thaukt, who it is said was but Loki in disguise, refused to
-weep.’
-
- “‘Neither in life, nor yet in death,
- Gave he me gladness.
- Let Hell keep her prey!’
-
-and Hell will keep her prey, as the Norna revealed to Odin, till the day
-of restitution of all things; and then, when the new sun shall enlighten
-the new earth, Baldur, restored from Hell, and Hodur, no longer blind,
-shall reign for ever and ever.[42]
-
-“But in the mean time it was necessary to prepare the funeral pyre of
-the god: his body was placed in his ship, the _Hringhorn_, and the pile
-was built round it, and his wife, Nanna, and his dwarf, Litur, and his
-father’s magic ring, Dropsnir, and his horse, and all his accoutrements,
-were placed on it, and amid a weeping concourse of gods and men, and
-Hrimthursar, and dwarfs, and witches, the fire was placed to it, and all
-nature mourned the departure of innocence.
-
-“And in memory of this, so soon as the days cease to lengthen, and nature
-feels the loss of its original innocence, and darkness begins to threaten
-the earth, men kindle their fires in memory of the death of Baldur.”[43]
-
-“Hallo! the Thousand take you! look where you are steering,” shouted out
-Hjelmar, in Swedish, to the helmsman, “are you going to run down the
-island?” And in truth it did seem something like it, for the branches of
-the overhanging trees rattled against the fore-topsail-yard, bringing
-down a shower of leaves and twigs; and a projecting ash so nearly brushed
-the paddle-box on which they were sitting, that the Parson broke off a
-branch as they passed.
-
-“Confound those fellows! they know the water is deep here, and think they
-cannot shave the point too closely, I suspect they wanted to astonish
-the passengers, and did not see me among them.”
-
-The point which they had rounded was just to the east, from off Osterisö,
-at which place they had just touched; and immediately afterwards they
-plunged into a deep, dark chasm of a passage between the two islands,
-which looked as if they had been split asunder by some sudden convulsion
-of nature, so evidently the projections and indentations of the opposite
-walls of rock seemed to fit into each other; while far overhead the trees
-looked as if they were overarching the chasm, and shutting out the light
-of day from its recesses. The churning sound of the paddles, and the
-hissing of the sea beneath their stroke sounded unnaturally loud, and
-the two little pop-guns which the _Gefjon_ carried on her forecastle and
-took that opportunity for discharging, rolled and echoed like a peal of
-thunder.
-
-“There!” said Captain Hjelmar, as the steamer pushed her way into
-daylight, and opened out a wide expanse no less beautiful than those
-they had been passing through all the morning; “there lies the strength
-of our coast; the Norwegian navy consists principally of gun-boats, and
-these dodge in and out among these islets, just as difficult to catch as
-rabbits in a warren; the great lumbering cruiser of the enemy watches
-in vain on the outside, like a terrier at the rabbit’s hole, while the
-rabbit, meanwhile, has passed out by a back door, and is taking his
-pleasure elsewhere.[44]
-
-“In the days of the last war, I was a cadet on board the _Najaden_
-frigate, the commodore on these coasts: I used to be lent to the
-gun-boats, and capital fun we had with your merchantmen; pretty
-profitable fun too, for we brought them in by dozens. There were your big
-cruisers, every now and then getting a crack at us, and picking off here
-and there a clumsy fellow who let himself get caught outside, but never
-doing us much harm. It was glorious fun, certainly,—at first, I must say,
-I did not like firing at the old English flag, that so many of our people
-had sailed under, but after exchanging a few shots, and seeing a few of
-one’s people knocked over, one soon learns to forget all that; and I
-blazed away at the old red rag after a bit, just as readily as I would at
-a rascally Russ.
-
-“Your Captain Stuart put an end to all that, though, for one while; and
-before we had recovered from the drubbing he gave us, there was peace
-again, and no revenge to be had for it. I was not sorry for the peace,
-though; it is not natural to be fighting the English.”
-
-“Aye,” said the Parson, “I have heard something about Captain Stuart, of
-the _Dictator_; he got some credit for his services in these waters.”
-
-“And well he deserved it,” said Hjelmar; “he was a thorough sailor, he
-knew what his ship could do, and he made her do it. As for fighting,
-anybody will fight; but to run such a chase as he did, requiring skill,
-and science, and nerve, and firmness, as well as brute courage, which
-every man has, and most beasts besides, is what very few men would have
-moral courage to attempt, or seamanship enough to bring to a successful
-termination.
-
-“We used to laugh at the old _Dictator_; if a corvette could not catch
-our gun-boats, it was not very likely a line-of-battle ship would do
-the trick; for this water, for all it is so deep and looks so open, is
-studded all over with pointed rocks at a fathom or so under the surface;
-and some of these, not a yard square at the top, any one of which would
-bring up a gun brig, let alone a liner. Well, there was the _Dictator_
-cruising about and doing nothing, as we thought; we did not know that
-he was improving his charts, and getting bearings and soundings; still
-less did we suspect that one of his quartermasters had been the mate of
-a coasting jagt, and knew the coast as well as we did. I have met the
-fellow since; he got a boatswain’s rating for his services, and I think
-he should have got something better.
-
-“At that time I was on board the frigate. Old Hulm, our commodore,
-said I was too wild to be trusted with a separate command, and one
-morning we were dodging about where we are now, with a steady breeze
-from the westward that looked as if it would stand. There were the old
-_Dictator’s_ mast-heads, just where we had seen them twenty times before,
-over the trees of Laxö,—that is, the island we are just opening, where
-those salmon nets are hanging up to dry.
-
-“‘By the keel of _Skidbladner_, that sailed over dry land,’ says Hulm,
-‘what is the fellow at now?’ as we opened the point of the island, and
-the line-of-battle ship, that had been lying with her main-topsail
-aback, squared away her yards and dashed in after us. ‘O, by Thor and by
-Mjölner! if that is your fun I will see what Norwegian rocks are made of.
-Keep her away a couple of points, quartermaster; and Mr. Sinklar (to the
-first lieutenant), turn the hands up.’ By this time we were running away
-dead before it; the enemy, who was all ready, had her studding-sails set
-on both sides,—it was beautiful to see how smartly they went up, it was
-like a bird unfolding her wings. ‘That’s a fine fellow,’ said Hulm; ‘it’s
-a pity, too, to sink him, but we must, so here goes.’
-
-“Old Hulm, who was full of fight, all this time dodged along under plain
-sail, just as if he did not care for _that_ the big fellow, and it is my
-opinion he would not have set his studding-sails had the distance been
-less. You see that green point just on the port bow, that one with the
-black stone lying off it:—by the way, I do not see why we should not run
-the very course ourselves. I have a passenger to Lyngör, and we may just
-as well go that course as any other. Starboard your helm, my man! that
-will do! meet her! keep her as she goes.
-
-“There, now, you begin to see that there is an opening to the eastward
-and northward of that point. As soon as we brought it abeam, down went
-our helm, and everything was braced as sharp up as it would draw; for the
-channel winds, as you see, to the southward of east. We thought to bother
-her, but those fifties on two decks are so short, they come round like
-tops. We were running free again to the eastward, outside the channel.
-When she came abreast of the opening, in came her studding-sails all at
-once, and there were her sails standing like boards, and her yards braced
-up as sharp as ours had been, and so much had he gained upon us, that
-as her port broadside came to bear, three or four shots, just to try
-the distance, came across the end of the island after us, skipping and
-dancing over the seas.
-
-“‘We must get Mjölner to speak to them,’ said old Hulm, rubbing his
-hands and looking delighted. ‘I think she will pitch her shot home now.’
-Mjölner was a long French eighteen, a very handsome brass gun, ornamented
-with _fleurs-de-lis_, and all sorts of jigmarees; the private property
-of the captain. Where he had picked it up, no one knew;—people said it
-had been the Long Tom of a French pirate. Old Hulm had called it Mjölner,
-which I suppose you know is the name of Thor’s hammer; he was as fond of
-it as he was of his wife, and always kept it on the quarter-deck, under a
-tarpaulin, which he never took off except on Sundays.
-
-“It took some time to train the gun aft, and by this time the
-line-of-battle ship had cleared the channel, and was putting up her helm
-to follow us. The old skipper laid his pet gun himself, and squinted, and
-squinted over her breech, and elevated, and depressed, and trained to the
-right, and trained to the left, till we thought he never meant to twitch
-the lanyard at all. Crack went Mjölner. By this time we had pretty nearly
-got the line-of-battle ship’s three masts in one, and the shot striking
-just under the fore top-mast cross-trees, cut the topsail tie and the jib
-halyards at once; down rattled the yard, snapping the fore top gallant
-sheets, out flew the top gallant sail, and away went the jib dragging
-under her fore-foot; and up flew the ship herself into the wind again,
-letting drive her broadside at us, as if she had done it on purpose.
-
-“The old skipper sent his steward for some bottles of true Cognac, and
-gave the men a tot all round, to drink Mjölner’s health.
-
-“The enemy had brailed up her driver, and braced by her after-sails, and
-got before the wind again in no time; and was not much longer in bending
-on a new tie and splicing her halyards; but we had got pretty well out of
-range now, and were bobbing in and out among a cluster of rocks as thick
-as porpoises. We had a man at the flying jib-boom as a look-out, and a
-couple more on the spritsail yardarms (for our ships had not whiskers in
-those days), and it was nothing but ‘Breakers ahead!’ ‘Rock on the port
-bow!’ ‘A reef to starboard!’ for the next quarter of an hour or twenty
-minutes, enough to make one’s hair stand on end. A-ha! thought I, when
-the last of them showed clear on the quarter, this is the skipper’s trap;
-here’s where the old _Dictator_ is going to lay her bones! But she did
-not. She dodged through every one of them every bit as well as we had
-done, and there certainly was no doubt but that the distance between us
-was a good deal decreased. These tubs of fifties sail like a haystack on
-a wind, but before it they go like _Skidbladner_ herself.
-
-“Old Hulm began to look grave; he had never dreamt of her following him
-within the islands like that, and he began to ‘smell a rat.’ The frigate
-had been caught on her very worst point of sailing. We might easily have
-worked to windward at first, but now she had got us fairly under her lee,
-and if we tried to tack under her guns, she would have stripped us of
-every rag of canvas we could show. Mjölner came into play again, as well
-as the stern chasers on the main deck, and to good purpose, too; but, on
-the other hand, the English shot were flying like peas about us—and they
-did not always fall short, either. Now and then there was a rope shot
-away, or a man knocked over, or a gun capsized,—for, at that distance,
-every shot that hit us pitched in upon the deck and trundled forwards,
-hopping here and there off the bulwarks without going through them, like
-so many billiard balls.
-
-“‘I will tell you what,’ says Hulm, ‘I will shove her through the Lyngör
-Channel, there is a rock in the middle that it will be as much as we can
-do to shave ourselves, and if we do get past it, the chances are, that it
-will bring up the liner; it is a desperate chance, but we must try it,
-and if the Englishman does get through after us (which she will not), we
-will reach out into the offing as close to the wind as we can lie. Port
-your helm at once, Mr. Sinklar—drop your main course, and haul out the
-driver.’
-
-“Up she came to the wind again, but the main-sail, which had been clewed
-up while we were running, had got a shot through it, exactly where the
-bunt-line gathered it into a bundle. The shot had gone through fold after
-fold of the canvas, cutting the foot-rope also, and before the tack
-was well hauled down, the sail had split from top to bottom; and then,
-just as she drew in under cover of the land, the mizen top-mast came
-clattering about our ears.
-
-“It was all up for beating to windward, unless we could shift our
-top-mast in time, and this the enemy was too close upon us to allow us
-do; everything lay on the rock bringing her up, and as I looked over the
-side as we passed, the rugged points looked so close to our own bends,
-that I thought they must have gone through; and the liner drew more water
-than we did.
-
-“All eyes were turned on the English ship, at least, on her sails, for a
-point of land concealed her hull, and prevented our firing; every moment
-we expected to see her sheets let fly;—not a bit of it,—on she came as
-steadily as ever.
-
-“Just at the village of Lyngör the channel turns at right angles, and
-the islands that form it, being high, took the wind out of our courses;
-while we had been running it had drawn a little to the southward of
-west,—which, as we had been off the wind all day, we had not taken notice
-of—as we turned the angle it headed us. Whether, under any circumstances,
-we could have fetched clear of the northern cape is doubtful; without
-our mizen top-sail it was impossible, for as the courses were becalmed,
-we really carried nothing but head sail that would draw; and in fact, we
-could scarcely look up for the cape, much less weather it.
-
-“Down with the anchor! out boats, to lay out a warp to spring her! we
-will fight it out here!’ said old Hulm. But the Englishman had seen us
-over the land from his mast-heads, and anchored by the stern, clewing up
-or letting fly everything, and passing out his cable from his stern-port,
-so as to check her way by degrees; when she came into sight round the
-point, at not a cable’s length from us, she had a cluster of men on her
-bowsprit with a hawser. On she came, as if she was going to leap over
-the town, and dropped her men on the houses, who, sliding down by the
-dolphin-striker, leaped on shore and made fast with her hawser forward,
-while her anchor brought her up abaft. And there she lay, as steady as
-a land battery, and opened her fire. The first broadside, loaded with
-grape, came rattling among the boats that were laying out the warp; what
-became of them I never heard; but the warp lay slack, and the current
-drifted us end-on to the line-of-battle ship’s broadside, and I felt our
-decks crumbling and splintering under me as her shot tore them up.
-
-“The next thing after that that I recollect, is a great rough hand
-pulling me out of the water by my collar, and a kindly English voice
-asking me if I was hurt. The smoke was still lying on the water, and
-hanging in little clouds upon the trees; but all that was to be seen of
-the old _Najaden_, was the main and fore-top gallant and royal masts,
-which, with their sails set, were still above water, and the blue and
-yellow pennant over all. We had gone down with our colours flying,
-and Captain Stuart would not have the pennant struck,—‘we had fought
-gallantly for it,’ he said, ‘and we should keep it still.’
-
-“Poor old Hulm, he was a fine fellow: there now! that is the very spot of
-the action,” for by this time they had opened the point of Lyngör, and
-had come in sight of the beautiful little village. “Do you see that iron
-pillar on the point? that is Captain Hulm’s monument.”
-
-“He went down with his ship, then?”
-
-“No, he did not; how he was saved I do not remember, but he was saved,
-and rewarded too for his standing up to the line-of-battle ship; for
-Father Karl is an old soldier, and knows that a man often deserves as
-much praise for being beat as for beating. The old fellow lived to a
-good old age; that was his house, that white fronted one on the hill, for
-Lyngör was his native place. It is not two years ago that he was capsized
-in his little schooner and drowned. There’s his monument, any how; and
-I always salute it, whenever I pass this way:” and as they came abreast
-of the point, the _Gefjon’s_ swallow-tailed ensign dipped from her peak,
-and her little pop-guns again testified their respect to the old sailor’s
-memory.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVII.
-
-GOTHEBORG.
-
- “A cautious guest,
- When he comes to his hostel,
- Speaketh but little;
- With his ears he listeneth,
- With his eyes he looketh,—
- Thus the wise learneth.
-
- “No better burthen
- Bears a man on his journey
- Than observation:—
- No worse provision
- Bears a man on his journey
- Than frequent drunkenness.”
-
- _High Song of Odin the Old._
-
-
-Early rising is not pleasant at sea. Captain Basil Hall may talk of the
-joyous morning watch if he likes,—but there is nothing joyous in washing
-decks, and that is what most ships are occupied with at that hour. The
-Parson did not make his appearance on deck till after breakfast, and he
-was the first of the party.
-
-The steamer was now approaching the end of her voyage, for the land,
-closing on both sides, showed the estuary of the Gotha. Most of the
-party were not sorry for the conclusion of the voyage, enjoyable as the
-earlier part of it had been; for the steamer,—after coasting all the way
-to Christiania, where the party had supplied themselves with carioles
-for their land journey, which, with their wheels unshipped, were stowed
-away snugly forward,—had taken her course, southward, over the tumbling
-Skagarack—a part of the world notorious for sea-sickness.
-
-All the morning long, preparations had been going forward for making a
-creditable appearance on arriving in port, and the discomforts of the
-early-risers had been considerably increased by a very liberal use of
-the holy-stone,—an amusement which, as the men were still employed in
-blacking the rigging, gave promise of an early repetition.
-
-Slung from a block at the mainmast head was a small triangular stage,
-made of three battens, on which sat a very dirty individual with a pot
-of slush before him and a tarring-brush in his hand, with which he was
-polishing off his morning’s work on the shining mast.
-
-Seated on the bitts below was a sturdy Norwegian, who, as if disdaining
-the compromise usually adopted by the coasting inhabitants, appeared in
-the caricature of a full-dressed Tellemarker, with a strip of jacket like
-a child’s spencer, of orange tawny wadmaal, great loose blue trousers
-with a waistband over his shoulder blades, crimson braces, and two
-strings of silver bullets dependent from the collars of a very dirty
-shirt. He was caressing a particularly ugly dog, which he called Garm,—an
-appellation which proved him to be what in England would be called a
-fast man; it is much as if an English young gentleman were to call his
-dog Satan. He was haranguing, of course, on the vast superiority of
-Norway to Sweden, and the infinite degradation which the former country
-had received from the union of the crowns,—that being not only the most
-favourite topic of Norwegian declamation, but, in the present instance,
-at all events, the most injudicious and unsuitable subject in which to
-exhibit before so mixed an audience.
-
-They behaved, however, exceedingly well, and rather trotted him out, much
-to the disgust of Torkel, who had sense enough to perceive what was going
-on, and would have infinitely preferred their beating him: after vainly
-endeavouring to draw his countrymen away, he had walked forward, and was
-looking moodily over the bows.
-
-“As for the Swedes,” said our judicious friend, “they are nothing better
-than swindlers. I have, for my sins, to go to Gotheborg every year, to
-lay in stores for the winter, and I am sure to be cheated. We don’t let
-Jews land on our shores, and I must go to Gotheborg to find them.”
-
-“Well, but we have no Jews either.” said a bye-stander; “they do not come
-to us, they go to the Free Towns.”
-
-“You are all Jews; the real Jews don’t go to you, that is very true, but
-it is because they know that the Gotheborgers are hogs, and their law
-does not allow them to have anything to do with unclean animals. Yes, you
-are all swine together. Why, I tell you a Norwegian dog would not touch
-anything Swedish. Come here, Garm!”—and he pulled out of his pocket a bit
-of ham, evidently filched from the breakfast table.
-
-Here the Parson thought he detected a glance of intelligence between
-Captain Hjelmar and the man at the mast-head, who, much amused, had left
-off his work to listen.
-
-“Come here, Garm!”—placing the tempting morsel on the deck.
-
-The dog wagged his tail, evidently preparing to seize it.
-
-“Svenske!” said the man. The dog, who had been well trained in this
-common trick, turned up his nose with apparent disgust, and refused the
-meat.
-
-“There!” said he, “I defy any Swede among you all to make a true
-Norwegian dog eat a bit of it. Garm knows what you all are, don’t you,
-Garm?”
-
-Just then, by the merest accident in the world, the slush-kettle got
-unhitched from the stage above his head, and came tumbling over on the
-deck, and in its descent, taking the unfortunate Norwegian on the nape of
-his neck as he was leaning forward to caress his dog, pitched the whole
-of its contents between his jacket collar and his back.
-
-Captain Hjelmar rated the man severely for his carelessness in spoiling
-his decks, and, ordering him off the stage, directed the boatswain to put
-his name into the black list. The man, however, did not seem much cast
-down about it, but slid down the greasy mast with a broad grin on his
-countenance, while the Norwegians carried their discomfited companion
-forward to purify him; and Garm, profiting by the confusion, proved a
-traitor to his country, by not only swallowing down the Swedish ham, but
-also by licking up as much as he could of the Swedish slush that had
-poured from the head and shoulders of his master on the Swedish deck.
-
-The coast of Sweden and the banks of the Gotha below the town, offer a
-striking contrast to the lovely scenery they had left. There are the
-rocks and the fringing islets, as in Norway, but here they are all flat,
-and most of them absolutely bare. The coasts, too, where they could be
-seen, exhibited ledges of rock and wastes of sand, with just enough
-cultivation to make the desolateness painful, by connecting it with the
-idea of people living there. Eider ducks would dive before them, and
-wild-fowl in little knots would cross their course, and hoopers would go
-trumpeting over their heads, with their white wings reflecting the sun
-like silver, and dippers of all sorts would play at hide-and-seek with
-the waves, and seals would put up their bullet-heads to gaze at them as
-they passed. The water is always beautiful when the sun shines directly
-upon it; but the eye must not range so far as the shore, for no sunshine
-could gild that.
-
-There was a good deal of life, and traffic too, upon the waters, for
-Gotheborg, the nearest port to the Free Towns and to all foreign
-trade whatever, as well as the outlet of the river navigation, may be
-considered the Liverpool of Sweden.
-
-As they proceeded the scenery slightly improved: the right bank began to
-be dotted with houses and small villages, wretched enough compared with
-the picturesque places on the other end of the Skaggerack, but at all
-events showing signs of life. At length they became continuous, and at a
-couple of miles distance, the three churches of Gotheborg, with the close
-cluster of houses, came into view. The anchor was dropped opposite to the
-fishing suburb of Gammle Hafvet, and a shore-going steamer came alongside
-to receive the passengers; which steamer, much to the fishermen’s
-delight, contained their old friend Moodie, who, on hearing that the
-Norway packet had been signalized, had gone to meet her on the chance of
-seeing them.
-
-Moodie was a singular character,—a cadet of good family, and brought
-up to no profession; he had been from his childhood passionately fond
-of field sports, in all of which he excelled. At an early age he had
-become his own master, with a good education, some usage of the world, a
-handsome person, a peculiarly active frame and sound constitution, and
-two hundred a year, _pour tout potage_. Rightly judging that England
-afforded no fitting scope for his peculiar talents, without the imminent
-danger of a committal for poaching, he had expatriated himself to
-Ireland; which country, he had, in a sporting point of view, thoroughly
-studied, and made himself completely master of its resources; he knew
-when every river in the whole island came into season and went out, and
-the best and cheapest way of transferring self and encumbrances from
-one point to another. He knew the times at which the woodcocks and the
-snipes would arrive, and the out-of-the-way places at which they may be
-safely shot; he could give a catalogue _raisonnée_ of all the wayside
-public-houses in sporting localities, and was hand-in-glove with half
-the disreputable squireens of Ireland. Certainly, he bagged more grouse
-annually than many a man who pays a rent of five or six hundred a year
-for the privilege of supplying the London markets.
-
-It was on the Erne that the fishermen had met him, and Moodie being an
-extremely well-informed and gentleman-like man, besides being a thorough
-sportsman, they had struck up with him what might be called an intimate
-acquaintance, which, now that they met as Englishmen on a foreign land,
-might be considered an intimate friendship.
-
-It was the railroads, and the consequent invasion of the cockneys,
-which had expatriated Moodie from his adopted country; people began
-to preserve, too, and to let their fishing and shooting-grounds; even
-the Erne was not what it had been, and Moodie, whose whole belongings,
-besides his live stock in the shape of dogs, were contained in two
-portmanteaus and as many gun-cases, packed them, and one morning found
-himself standing on the quay of Gotheborg.
-
-If, instead of the coast of Sweden, it had been the coast of the Cannibal
-Islands, Moodie would soon have found himself at home; but here he had
-letters of introduction, and Karl Johann, who had a high opinion of the
-English, was very anxious to get an infusion of English blood among
-his Swedes. Moodie’s peculiar talents, too, which in England might have
-consigned him to the county jail, in Sweden found their legitimate
-outlet; he soon found a beautiful little country house on the banks of
-the Gotha; had no difficulty in renting the exclusive right of fishing
-for some miles above and below it; paid the rent and all expenses of
-boats and boatmen, and put a handsome sum into his pocket besides, by
-supplying Gotheborg with lake salmon (salmo ferox). He then got the
-rangership of a royal forest, by which he kept his numerous hangers-on in
-what he called butcher’s meat, and traded with the Zoological Gardens and
-private collections in the wild beasts and birds of the country, by means
-of which traffic, he had furnished himself with the choicest collection
-of sporting fire-arms and fishing tackle to be found in the north.
-Besides which, Moodie had become a public character. Sweden has its wild
-beasts as well as its ordinary game,—he who destroys a wolf or a bear is
-a public benefactor, and Moodie had a peculiar talent for tracking them.
-Every farmer within a hundred miles of Gäddebäck would pull off his hat
-to him; but that is not saying much, for a Swede is always pulling off
-his hat, and if he had nothing else to pull it off to he would be making
-his salaams to the cows and sheep.
-
-It was not a great deal of Gotheborg the fishermen saw that evening;
-their experience of the country was confined to a march by the shortest
-road from the landing place to Todd’s Hotel, and their subsequent view
-to a sort of Dutch interior, of which pipes, tobacco, bottles, glasses,
-juniper beer of native manufacture, and thin vinous importations from
-Bordeaux, made up the accessories; but the fishermen had much to inquire
-after, and Moodie had much to tell.
-
-Breakfast, always a luxurious meal in the north, at least, in summer
-time, on account of the quantities of berries and the abundant supply of
-cream, brought a visitor,—a young artillery officer, a friend of Birger,
-by name Dahlgren, and by rank Count, who had his quarters in the inn,—for
-the Swedish officers have no mess like ours, but lodge permanently in the
-hotels, paying a fixed sum per week, and dining at the _table d’hôte_.
-Like Birger, he was a painter, but whereas the guardsman exercised his
-art simply as an amateur, or at most, in the public service of his
-country, his friend, Count as he was, exercised his as a profession, and
-as a means of eking out his scanty pay.
-
-There would be a grand review that afternoon, he said, and it would
-be well worth seeing, for Gotheborg is the great artillery station of
-Sweden, and the Commander-in-Chief, with his staff, who were on a tour
-of inspection, had arrived by the canal steamer from the new fortress of
-Wanås, on the Wetter.
-
-This piece of information, which the artilleryman detailed with great
-glee, was received by Birger with a wry countenance, as certain to detain
-him within doors as long as the General remained at Gotheborg,—for it
-will be remembered he was at that very time unable to join his regiment
-on account of _pressing family affairs_.
-
-This did not affect the others, so, leaving their friend to amuse himself
-as best he might, by improving his sketches or watching the magpies from
-the window, they started, under the pilotage of their new ally, for a
-tour of observation.
-
-Whatever else Gotheborg is famous for, certainly the most remarkable
-thing in it is its flocks of magpies,—birds which, in our country, are
-extremely wild, and by no means fond of town life. Gregarious, in the
-proper sense of the term, they are not, but they are as numerous as
-sparrows in London, very nearly as tame, and much more impudent. This
-by no means arises from any affection which the inhabitants have for
-the bird—for magpies are ugly and mischievous all the world over, and
-quite as mischievous in Gotheborg as anywhere else,—but from a popular
-superstition they are under the especial protection of the devil—and
-truly the devil cares for his own: they build their nests and bring up
-their young under the very noses of the schoolboys; they feed them with
-stolen goods, filched from every kitchen,—and often and often, among the
-delicacies of the season, they regale them with spring chicken of their
-own killing. But no one molests a magpie; Heaven only knows what would
-be the consequences of killing one; and, though Government has set a
-price on their heads, they sleep in safety, under the protection of their
-great master.
-
-The town ought to be handsome, but it is not; the description would look
-well on paper. A great broad canal through the centre, with quays all the
-way on both sides, as at Dublin, only twice as broad, forming a very wide
-street; and from this five or six similar canals, similarly furnished
-with quays and streets, branch off at right angles. The banks of all
-these canals are planted with trees, and arranged as shaded footways. All
-this sounds as if the place ought to be pretty, but, though every word of
-this is true, the reality falls far short of the ideas it conveys. The
-houses are mean and low, and, the windows being flush with the sides, the
-whole appearance is pasteboard-like and unsubstantial, which the reality
-is not. The Swedes build their wooden houses in very good taste, and they
-harmonise very well with the scenery, but they should stick to that—_ne
-sutor ultra crepidam_: let not the carpenter aspire to be a mason. Every
-house, large or small, in town or in country, has very large panes of
-glass,—the very cabins have them; the glass is as bad as bad can be,
-full of flaws and waves, and very thin besides; even this produces a bad
-effect; besides, it is impossible to admire the finest of towns, when
-walking over streets so roughly paved that eyes and thoughts must be
-continually directed towards the footing.
-
-There is a capital market, and the canals bring the hay, and the fuel,
-and all other heavy articles from the interior, to the very doors of the
-houses. It was singular to see floating haystacks and faggot piles—for
-so they looked, the hulls of the boats being completely hidden by their
-freight,—towed up in strings by the little steam-tugs, and moored to the
-quays. If Gotheborg is not a prosperous town, Sweden will not support
-one at all, for it is impossible for any situation to be more favourable
-for trade. The river itself forms a secure harbour, its only fault being
-that vessels of heavy draught cannot anchor within a mile of the town.
-The interior water communications comprehend all the midland provinces,
-and the landing and shipping of goods is as easy as art can make it;
-besides, it is the outermost port of the whole country.
-
-The markets, certainly, are well supplied, especially that of fish, both
-salt and fresh-water. Beef and mutton are among its articles of export
-to the southern coasts of Norway, and there is not a bad display of
-vegetables for so northern a country. The quantities of spinach which
-are seen everywhere, and which mingle with every dish, rather surprise
-the traveller, till he finds out that the sandhills which he has seen
-on each side of him all the way up the river, are covered with it,
-growing wild—wild as it is, English garden spinach is not at all better
-flavoured. Singularly enough, melons are plentiful; one would almost as
-soon expect to meet with pines in these latitudes,—but the short summer
-of Sweden is peculiarly favourable for them.
-
-The trade of the place does not look very lively, and the bustle in the
-streets is nothing at all like that of Bristol or Liverpool. What little
-stir there was just then, seemed to be rather military than mercantile.
-Dirty, slovenly-looking artillerymen, with ugly blue and yellow uniforms,
-putting one disagreeably in mind of the _Edinburgh Review_; overalls
-patched extensively with leather that terribly wanted the blacking-brush;
-and dingy steel scabbards, that did not know what emery-stone was, were
-clanking about the streets, followed by little crowds; and groups of
-officers were standing at the doors of the hotels and lodging-houses.
-Evidently a review was not an everyday business.
-
-The Parson and Captain were soon deserted by their military cicerone,
-who left them, to prepare for his part in the military display, having
-directed them into the street that leads to the scene of action. This
-was a large meadow, or small park, to the east of the town, rather a
-pretty promenade, enclosed with trees, which was now crowded with people.
-Towns, especially trading towns, are not remarkable for costume. The
-people, seeing such a variety of foreigners, get to be citizens of the
-world themselves, and so lose their nationalities. But there were a few
-fancy dresses, too, from the country round; short round corduroy jackets,
-sometimes a sort of tartan, too, but which invariably had rows of
-buttons sewed as thick together as they could stand. Among the women, a
-handkerchief was frequently tied round the head instead of a bonnet; but
-every one, almost, carried his or her bunch of flowers, an article which
-abounded in the markets; these were very often carried in the hats, or
-stuck through the knots of the kerchiefs.
-
-And now the bugles of the artillery were heard, and the rumbling of
-wheels, and the trampling of horses, as battery after battery rolled
-into the park. The Swedes call them horse artillery, but they are, in
-reality, only field batteries; for of horse artillery, properly so
-called, that most beautiful of military toys, they have none. Their guns,
-twelve pounders, are drawn by six horses, each of which carries a man. In
-bringing the guns into action, the off-man of each pair dismounted, and
-these were joined by three others, whose seat was on the limbers. These
-are hardly men enough to work so heavy a gun, allowing for the casualties
-of action, but on emergencies the driver of the middle pair also lends
-his services.
-
-There was nothing showy in the review, the manœuvres of which were
-confined to advancing and retreating in line, and forming column, and
-deploying into line again; but all at a foot’s pace, or at a very slow
-trot. They had no idea of changing front, or retreating in echéllon, or
-any of those showy manœuvres in which the prolong is used. In fact, so
-far as display went, it was a very slow affair indeed; the men, however,
-seemed to know their work pretty well, and though individually dirty
-and slovenly and without the well set up carriage of our own soldiers,
-they bore, as a body, rather a soldier-like appearance. They ride very
-forward, absolutely on the horse’s withers—this is said to give the horse
-greater facility of draught; and it may, but at all events, it gives a
-most awkward and unsoldier-like appearance to the men, which is in no
-way improved by the manner in which they carry their swords—the elbows
-sticking out at right angles to the body, and their knuckles thrust into
-their sides, as if they had a pain in their ribs.
-
-The guns seemed to be very much under-horsed, but perhaps this is more
-apparent than real; for the Swedish horses, though small, are strong and
-wiry, and their enclosed country is not only not calculated for horse
-artillery manœuvres, but does not admit of them. The chances are, that
-a whole campaign might be fought in Sweden without the artillery being
-required to move faster than at a foot-pace. So far as numbers went, they
-mustered at least three times as many guns as can be got together at
-Woolwich for love or money at the best of times.
-
-The army of Sweden is very curiously constituted, and it is not easy to
-reckon up its effective strength. The regular army does not consist of
-above 10,000 men; the guards—than which no finer body of men is to be
-seen in Europe,—the artillery, and three or four garrison regiments, who
-are stationed at Wanås, in the interior, and Carlscrona, and one or two
-other fortresses on the coast.
-
-The militia, which is called Beväring, consists of every man in the
-country between the ages of twenty and twenty-five; these have regular
-days of exercise, generally Sunday evenings in the summer, which is with
-them by no means a popular arrangement, for those are the hours which the
-ingenuous youths of Sweden devote to dancing, an amusement of which they
-are passionately fond. This really is a much more effective force than
-it seems, for the Swedes are natural soldiers; besides which, it gives
-them all a habit of drill, which might be rendered serviceable in case of
-invasion; for, as every man in the country has been drilled in his youth,
-they are all capable of immediately taking their places in the ranks of
-the regular regiments. It would be a very great improvement if they were
-drilled to ball practice, like the Swiss and Tyrolese, for a Swede is
-terribly clumsy with fire-arms, and on a skal, is just as likely to shoot
-himself or his comrade, as a bear or a wolf.
-
-But the strength of the Swedish army lies in its Indelta, a description
-of force peculiar to that country—unless the military colonies of Russia
-be considered a parallel case.
-
-The crown possesses large estates, and these are leased out, like the
-knight’s fees in old times, on man service, and for that purpose are
-divided into hemmans, each hemman furnishing a man, who has a portion of
-it by way of pay—the hemman is not a measure of size, but of produce.
-Fertile hemmans are small, waste or barren hemmans are large; and thus
-it often happens, when a crown estate has been cleared and brought
-into cultivation, though quite as productive as some other estate, it
-furnishes a much smaller quota.
-
-The holder of such a property, is then bound to serve himself, if
-capable, and to furnish a certain number of efficient soldiers, horse or
-foot, according to the size of his estate. The whole country is divided
-into military provinces, under colonels; these are subdivided into
-districts, under captains, with their proper complement of subaltern and
-non-commissioned officers, who are paid by the tenure of certain reserved
-farms, which they hold in virtue of their commissions.
-
-Whenever the Indelta is called out—and a third of them assemble in camp
-every summer,—the crown tenants of the estates that furnished it are
-bound, at their own expense, to cultivate the farms which the soldiers
-hold, and to return to them their lands, when they are dismissed from
-active service, in the same condition in which they took charge of them,
-accounting for any sale of produce which they may have made.
-
-The service of the Indelta is very popular, and for every vacancy there
-are at least half a dozen candidates. No application is ever received
-without written testimonials from the clergyman of the applicant’s
-parish, and no man is ever admitted who has been convicted of any crime.
-Many of these crown holdings have been purchased and re-purchased, and
-transferred from hand to hand so often, that they are regarded as a sort
-of private property, and their tenants very often complain of being
-burthened to a greater extent than their countrymen. This, however, is as
-unreasonable as that a tenant should complain that in paying rent he is
-not on an equality with the proprietor in fee. The sale of crown lands is
-merely the transference of a beneficial lease.
-
-So far as the morals of the people are concerned, the patronage of the
-Indelta, and the reward it holds to good conduct, act very beneficially;
-as to the efficacy of the force, the wars of Gustavus Adolphus and of
-Charles XII., may form a pretty fair criterion. The strength of this
-contingent to the Swedish army, may be reckoned at 20,000 infantry, and
-5,000 cavalry, and has the advantage of being always available.
-
-“You may come out of your hole now, Birger,” said his friend, the
-artilleryman, who, arriving hot and dusty from the barracks, was lounging
-down the streets, with his jacket open and his stiff military stock in
-his hand, a free and easy style of dress, in which an English officer
-would think it just impossible to put his nose beyond the barrack gates.
-“The General and all his staff are gone in a body to Arfwedsen’s Villa,
-so you are safe for to-day.”
-
-“And for to-morrow, too,” said Birger, “for the steamer starts for
-Stockholm to-morrow morning early; while you were amusing yourselves, I
-have been doing business. As soon as I heard from the sound of your guns
-that the General was safe, I stepped down to the quay, went on board the
-_Daniel Thunberg_, and engaged two cabins—we will toss up who is to have
-the cabin to himself.”
-
-“Why, where’s Moodie?”
-
-“Moodie!” said Birger, taking out his watch, “why, by this time Moodie is
-at Agnesberg.”
-
-“And where is Agnesberg?”
-
-“The first stage to Trollhättan. He had transacted his business, and
-transferred his herd of deer to the Zoological men before we came, so
-he said he would start at once for Gäddebäck, and prepare to receive
-us. I rather think there is some bear hunting afoot, for the Stockholm
-post came in while you were at the review, and I am sure I recognised
-Bjornstjerna’s great splash of a seal, and his scratchy hand. At all
-events, off started Moodie.”
-
-“Why! is it not necessary to lay a forebud.”
-
-“Not on the main road; there is traffic enough between this and
-Wenersburg to keep holl-horses (retained horses) always at the stations.
-He will be at Gäddebäck, I will venture to say, before daybreak.”
-
-“And when do we sail?”
-
-“At ten to-morrow; we can see the falls and the canal before nightfall,
-and sleep at Trollhättan to-morrow night; and on the following morning
-Moodie is to send his boat for us. And now for dinner, I have ordered it
-at the Prinds Karl; Todd’s is a very good house to sleep at, and not bad
-for breakfast, but I want to shew you what Swedish cookery is, as far as
-you can get any worth eating in the provinces.”
-
-[Illustration: p. 251.]
-
-“Ah! there spoke the guardsman.”
-
-“Well, it is very true, as you will confess, if ever I get you to
-Stockholm; is it not, Count Dahlgren?” addressing the artillery officer.
-“You dine with us, of course; in with you, and wash off the stains of
-war, which are pretty visible at present. You have not more time than you
-know what to do with. If we do sail to-morrow, we will make a night of it
-to-night.”
-
-“Like our first night at Mosse Eurd?”
-
-“No, hang it, no; not so bad as that;—that was all very well for the men,
-but we do not make such beasts of ourselves in this country. I have told
-them, though, to put plenty of champagne in ice, and to provide the best
-claret they have got; we will be merry—and wise, if possible.”
-
-“And if not possible?”
-
-“Why, then, the merry without the wise.”
-
-Whether mirth, or wisdom, or a judicious mixture of the two prevailed
-that evening at the Prinds Karl, need not be related; but the next
-morning saw the party on the clean white deck of the elegant little river
-steamer _Daniel Thunberg_, dashing along its broad, still stream, between
-rows of feathering rushes, sometimes so tall as to eclipse the still
-flat and uninteresting country beyond them. Ducks there were, in such
-numbers, that the fishermen half repented their engagement with Moodie;
-and Jacob, to whom every spot was familiar, kept up an incessant chorus
-of regrets, pointing out here a spot where he had made a fortune with the
-långref, having hauled up a three-pound eel on every hook,—there a corner
-where he had caught a pike so big he could not lift it into the boat, but
-was obliged to tow it astern all the way to Gotheborg,—and there a bay
-in the rushes in which he had bagged five swans, eight geese, and more
-ducks than he could count, at a single shot,—with as many more stories,
-equally veracious, as he could get people to listen to; and in fact,
-could be stopped by nothing short of that grand event in a Swedish day,
-dinner, which, announced by the steamer’s bell, was served with great
-magnificence in the saloon.
-
-These little steamers form as luxurious a conveyance as can be imagined;
-they are galley-built, that is to say, the quarter deck is two or three
-feet higher than the waist; the after part is divided into ten or twelve
-little private cabins, each possessing its own port, and each furnished
-with its two sofas and its table; the fore part contains the saloon, or
-common cabin. They do not carry very powerful engines, but they burn
-wood, and are as clean and as free from disagreeable smells as if they
-were sailing vessels.
-
-At the locks of Lilla Edet, where a reef comes across the river, forming
-a low but very picturesque fall, the fine scenery commences. The fall
-itself is singular. The water of the Gotha, fresh from the great lake of
-Wenern, which acts as an enormous cesspool, is as clear and bright as
-that of the Torjedahl, but with ten times its volume; it slips off the
-smooth ledge of rocks as if it were falling over a step; the ledge off
-which it slips is seen through it as distinctly as if it were enclosed
-in a glass case, for the water preserves its unbroken transparency till
-it reaches the bottom, and then spreads out into a broad border of foam,
-like a fan with swansdown fringe.
-
-From this point, a very perceptible difference was remarkable in the
-run of the current, which retarded considerably the way of the steamer
-through the belt of highlands which separates the low tract bordering the
-sea-coast from the higher level of Wenersborglan; and it was not till
-past five, that the low rumbling, earth-shaking sound of the great falls
-began to tremble on the ear.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVIII.
-
-TROLLHÄTTAN.
-
- “Gefjon drew from Gylfi
- Rich stored-up treasure,—
- The land she joined to Denmark.
- Four heads and eight eyes bearing,
- While hot sweat trickled down them,
- The oxen dragged the reft mass
- Which forms this winsome island.”
-
- _Skald Bragi the Old._
-
- “It was a wondrous sight to see
- Topmast and pennon glitter free,
- High raised above the greenwood tree—
- As on dry land the galley moves,
- By cliff and copse and alder groves.”
-
- _Lord of the Isles._
-
-
-“Birger, what is the Swedish for ‘Go to the devil?’ I cannot make these
-little brutes of boys understand me,” shouted the Captain, who was not
-in the best of humours, having already made half a dozen slips on very
-dangerous ground. In all Sweden, there is not a more slippery bit of
-turf than that which clothes the cliffs and highlands of Trollhättan.
-The bank along which he was scrambling to get a good view of the falls
-rounded itself off gradually, getting more and more out of the horizontal
-and into the vertical at every step, till at last it plunged sheer into
-the foaming turn-hole of the middle fall, in which the very best of
-swimmers would have had no more advantage over the very worst than that
-of keeping his head above water till he went down the third leap, and
-got knocked to pieces on the rocks below. There was not a root to hold
-on by stronger than those of the dwarf cranberries, whose smooth leaves
-only aided the natural slipperiness. Heather is not common anywhere in
-Sweden; but here there was quite enough not only to give a purple brown
-hue to the scenery, but also to add to the difficulty of keeping one’s
-feet, in a way which any one who has walked the side of a highland
-hill in very dry weather will fully be able to appreciate. It was very
-irritating when one at last had attained a point of view—after traversing
-what to a leather-shod stranger was really a dangerous path—to have the
-current of one’s thoughts interrupted by a parcel of bare-footed urchins,
-who came frolicking over the very same ground, and insisting that the
-visitor should see everything, from the orthodox point of view set down
-by Murray, and from no other whatever, and moreover should pay for being
-tormented and unpoeticised, the regulated number of skillings.
-
-The rush of waters was certainly very grand and very magnificent. Much
-has been written about it in books of travels, and much more in the
-album kept at the inn for the purpose of enshrining and transmitting to
-posterity the extasies of successive generations of travellers; but the
-Parson, who ought to have been lost in admiration—to his shame be it
-spoken—appeared chiefly solicitous to procure bait, which he and Torkel
-had been diligently hunting for in the shallows. It was not without
-considerable difficulty that a trout sufficiently small to fit the
-snap-hooks of the trolling-litch could be found, and when it was found,
-we are happy to say, it met with no more success than it deserved; for
-though at very considerable personal risk he tried as much of the rushing
-water as his longest trolling-rod would command, he was not rewarded with
-a single run.
-
-But for all that, there certainly are fish in all the pools about these
-tremendous falls, and that he had the opportunity of satisfying himself
-about before he left off; for just as he was giving it up for a bad job,
-Torkel, who had an eye for a fish like that of a sea-eagle, caught sight
-of something alive that had poked itself into one of the runs from the
-saw-mills, a place not three feet across; and unscrewing the gaff which
-he was carrying, and substituting for it the five-pronged spear, he
-plunged it into the water and brought out a black trout (_salmo ferox_)
-of ten pounds weight at the end of it. From the nature of the water it
-is impossible that trout can abound at Trollhättan in any great numbers.
-The river has scarcely any tributaries below the falls; and as it is
-absolutely impossible for a fish to surmount them, the breeding ground
-is very limited; but, on the other hand, the clearness of the water is
-precisely that which best suits the constitution of a trout; bleak and
-gwinead, which form their principal food, are very plentiful, and from
-the depth of the water, there is scarcely any limit to the growth of
-the fish; a man, who is satisfied to catch now and then a monster, will
-do very well at Trollhättan, and in the course of the season will have
-a few stories to tell, which in England will be set down as altogether
-fabulous,—but it does not answer for a day’s fishing. The traveller may
-as well make up his mind to admire the scenery at his leisure,—it will
-not answer his purpose to wet a line there.
-
-The Parson having convinced himself of this, and, moreover, having had
-one or two very narrow escapes, reeled up his line and contentedly sought
-out his friends, who, by this time, had succeeded in explaining to the
-swarms of guides that their services were not required, and were sitting
-on a heathery bank feathered with birch, exactly in front of the middle
-falls, comfortably eating gooseberries, which grow there in such plenty
-that, though the place swarms with children—a whole regiment of soldiers
-with their wives and families being hutted in the vicinity,—the bushes
-were still full of them.
-
-“That is a curious cave,” said the Captain, pointing to a hole which
-seemed to enter the face of the precipitous rock by the side of the
-great fall, and to penetrate it for some distance; at least, the depth
-was sufficiently great to be lost in darkness; the bottom of it was on a
-level with the water, and was not accessible without a boat.
-
-“That!” said Birger, “that is Polheim’s grave.”
-
-“Do you mean to say that any man was buried there?”
-
-“Not the man himself, only the best part of a man—his reputation.
-Polheim was an engineer, and when the first idea of making a practicable
-communication between the Wener and the sea was entertained, he
-attempted to carry it into effect by burrowing out that hole. If he had
-succeeded in boring through the rock, he would have accomplished the
-largest _jet d’eau_ in the world. However, Government were wise enough to
-put a stop to it, and to employ a cleverer man. Polheim died—it is said
-of grief,—his body buried at Wenersborg; what became of his soul, I will
-not take upon me to say; but as for his reputation, there is no doubt
-about that—that lies buried there.”
-
-“That canal certainly is a wonderful work for a country like yours, where
-the extent of land is so great, and the produce from it so small.”
-
-“It would have been more wonderful still,” said Birger, “for it would
-have been done when the country was still poorer, had it not been for the
-Reformation.”
-
-“The Reformation!” said the Captain. “What, in the name of Tenterden
-Steeple and the Goodwin Sands, has the Reformation to do with the Gotha
-Canal?”
-
-“Not much with the canal, but a good deal with Bishop Brask who planned
-it—the man whom Geijer calls, and very deservedly, ‘the friend of
-liberty, and the upright friend of his country.’ The present canal,
-nearly as you see it now, was sketched out in a letter still preserved,
-which was written in the year 1526, by the Bishop, to stout old Thurè
-Jensen, whom men called King of East Gothland—that gallant old fellow,
-who, when he saw how the Diet of Westeras was going, struck up his
-drums and marched forth, swearing that no man in Sweden should make
-him heathen, Lutheran, or heretic. Before the Bishop’s scheme could be
-converted into a reality, stout old Thurè was a headless corpse, and
-Brask a voluntary exile. But the good which men do, lives after them.
-Gustavus, who had always respected Brask, and would fain have retained
-him in his See of Linköping, carried out many of his plans—and in the
-course of time this, as you see, was carried out too, though it was not
-for a hundred years or more after the successful king and the deprived
-bishop had gone to their respective accounts.”
-
-“Jacob has just been giving us another version of the story,” said the
-Captain, “something about Gefjon and Gylfi.”
-
-“O, the Gylfa-Ginning. Stupid old fool!—that did not happen here, but
-down in the south, between Sweden and Denmark. So far, however, he is
-quite right,—at least, if you believe the Prose Edda; the Goddess Gefjon
-was the first canal maker in Sweden, and the event happened in the reign
-of King Gylfi.
-
-“Thus it was:—
-
-“King Gylfi ruled over the land of Svithiod (Sweden), and at that
-uncertain date which is generally known as ‘once upon a time,’ he
-recompensed a strange woman, for some service she had done him, with as
-much land as she could plough round with four oxen in a day and a night;
-but he did not know, till the share struck deep into the earth and tore
-asunder hills and rocks, that it was the Goddess Gefjon that he was
-dealing with. So deep were the furrows, that the place where the land had
-been became water, for the oxen, which had come from Jötenheim (the land
-of the Goths), were really her sons, whom she had yoked to her plough.”
-
-“Phew-w-w,” whistled the Parson.
-
-“What is the matter?” said Birger.
-
-“Only that as Gefjon is the northern Diana, I thought you might have made
-a mistake; her nephews, possibly, not her sons?”
-
-“O, that goes for nothing in Sweden,” said the Captain, laughing; “there
-are plenty of cases in point. I have no doubt Birger is quite right.”
-
-“Well, if you come to scandalising national divinities,” retorted
-Birger, “I am sure that story about Endymion was never cleared up very
-satisfactorily.”
-
-“Clear up your own story, at all events, and place the oxen in any
-relationship to the maiden goddess which you may think best suited to her
-fair fame.”
-
-“Then I will call them what the Edda calls them,” said Birger, gallantly,
-“her sons, and never sully the fair fame of the maiden Gefjon either. The
-whole is an allegory. Sweden achieved the sea-path, or inland navigation
-by the labour of her own sons, and that is what the old Skald Bragi
-means when he likens them to oxen, and says—
-
- “‘Four heads and eight eyes bearing,
- While hot sweat trickled down them,
- The oxen dragged the reft mass
- That formed this winsome island.’
-
-And now Gefjon and her sturdy sons have been at work again. The whole
-south of Sweden is an island now, and it is this canal from the Cattegat
-to the Baltic that makes it so.”
-
-“Well, so it is; and though it is a long while since the days of the
-Goddess Gefjon, or even of good Bishop Brask, the work is complete at
-last, and a very creditable work it is. I think, by-the-way, that we
-English had something to do with it.”
-
-“England had a hand, and a very considerable one, in the other end of
-it,” said Birger, “but these locks are home manufacture, and the thing
-really has answered very well. See what a trade it has opened with the
-Wener only, which was the original plan; the communication with the
-Baltic being a sort of after-thought of the Ostergöthlanders, carried
-out by Count Platen. This part of the canal, which was opened in 1800,
-has made four of our inland counties, Wenersborglan, Mariestadslan,
-Carlstadslan, and Orebrö, into so many maritime states; and now the other
-end has done the same for Jonköping and Linköping. In national wealth,
-it has paid a dozen times over. There is no one who has ever lived,
-since the days of Oxenstjerna, to whom we owe so much as we do to Count
-Platen. In the very heat of the war—that is to say, in 1808—he conceived
-the idea of prolonging the water communication to the Baltic. He went
-over to England to inspect, with his own eyes, the Caledonian canal. He
-engaged Telford, returned to Sweden, and, within two months, sent in
-his plans, with their specification and estimates, which, strange to
-say, have not been exceeded in the execution. It is this old part of the
-canal, however, which is, at all events, the most showy job; here are
-two miles of solid rock cut through, and, as you see, these falls are
-pretty high—not less than a hundred and twenty feet of them, besides the
-rapids,—they require, therefore, a good many locks; in fact, as you see,
-it looks more like a staircase than anything else.”
-
-“It certainly was a singular sight,” said the Captain, “to see our
-steamer high above our heads, and the masts of the brigs sticking out
-from the tops of the rocks, and far above the highest trees.”
-
-“This part of the canal is the most showy,” said Birger; “no doubt
-but Platen’s work was not altogether so easy as it looks. Any one can
-appreciate the skill of an engineer, who sees a great body of water
-surmounting a steep wall of rock; but a still greater amount of skill
-is evidenced in laying out a plan; so as to render such tedious and
-expensive works unnecessary. When I was a youngster, I was sent by the
-Kongs-Ofwer-Commandant’s Expedition, to survey, by way of practice, the
-two lines from our fortress of Wanås-on-Wettern to the two seas, and I
-really do not know which is the most wonderful conception. The original
-plan was only eight feet deep, but they are deepening it two feet more,
-and making the width of the locks twenty-two feet throughout. We shall
-see the Linköping battalion at work on this to-morrow. I must go and pay
-them a visit while we are staying at Gäddebäck. I know a good many of the
-officers.”
-
-“It is a military work, then?”
-
-“Not exactly, though, like most other large undertakings, it is done by
-soldiers. It is a speculation, something like those in your own country,
-which is taken in hand by shareholders, with a board of directors, though
-I believe Government gives them a lift of some sort or other; but in
-this country, in time of peace, you can always get as many soldiers as
-you want for labourers, from a corporal’s party up to a battalion, or
-a brigade, for matter of that. You lodge so much money in the hands of
-the Government officer appointed for that purpose, and a regiment, or a
-company, or a detachment, receives orders to march and hut themselves
-in such a place. Your engineer, or foreman, or bailiff, as the case may
-be, gives his orders to the officer in command, who sees them carried
-into effect. It costs more in hard money—and, what is a worse thing for
-us Swedes, _ready_ money—than any other sort of labour, but it answers
-exceedingly well for those who can afford the first outlay, for the men
-are under military discipline, and Government are responsible, not only
-that you shall have so many men to work, but so many _sober_ men, _fit_
-to work, which, in this country, as you know, is not exactly the same
-thing.”
-
-“And how do the soldiers like it?” said the Captain, who, though he
-did not say so, certainly was thinking that it was not precisely the
-situation of an officer and a gentleman, to do duty as foreman of the
-works for some speculating farmer, or builder, or engineer.
-
-The idea never seemed to strike Birger, who, by-the-way, belonging to
-the Royal Guards, was himself exempt from such service. “It is rather
-popular,” said he, “with all classes; the men like it because they have
-a considerable increase of pay, and as for the officers, except one
-or two who are on duty for the day, they have but a short morning and
-evening parade, just to see that their men are all right, and then they
-may do what they please. They lose nothing, either, for all places are
-equally dull in the summer, when everybody is at work; there can be no
-festivities going on anywhere, and so they shoot, or fish, or lounge, or
-make love, at their leisure. But here we are at the parade-ground,” he
-continued, as they came upon a cleared space in the forest, surrounded
-by very neat and compactly-built huts, some of considerable pretensions,
-framed with trunks of pines, and walled and roofed with outsides from
-the saw-mills, arranged as weather-boards; others, more humble, were
-constructed of pine-branches and heather; but all alike compact, neat,
-firm, tidy-looking, and arranged in military order, in straight lines,
-with their officers’ huts in front.
-
-The sun was not far from its setting, and the soldiers having put aside
-their tools, were throwing on their belts in a way that certainly would
-not have satisfied an English adjutant, and were hurrying, with their
-muskets in their hands, to their respective posts. There was a short
-private inspection by the non-commissioned officers, while the band, a
-pretty good one, were tuning their instruments; after which the companies
-formed into line, faced to the west, and as the lower limb of the sun
-touched the horizon, the officers saluted with their swords, the men
-presented arms, and accompanied by the band, sang in chorus, every man of
-them joining in and taking his part in it, the beginning of Grundtvig’s
-glorious hymn to the Trinity.
-
- “O mighty God! we Thee adore,
- From our hearts’ depths, for evermore;—
- None is in glory like to Thee
- Through time and through eternity.
- Thy Name is blessed by Cherubim—
- Thy Name is blessed by Seraphim—
- And songs of praise from earth ascend,
- With thine angelic choirs to blend.
- Holy art Thou, our God!
- Holy art Thou, our God!
- Holy art Thou, our God!
- Lord of Sabaoth.”
-
-The air was simple enough, though beautifully harmonized; but there is
-nothing in the whole compass of music so magnificent as the combination
-of some hundreds of human voices trained to sing in harmony; the band
-would have injured the effect, but in truth it was hardly heard,
-overwhelmed as it was by that volume of sound,—except, indeed, the roll
-of drums which accompanied the final “Amen,” swelling and prolonging
-the notes, and then dying away like a receding peal of thunder. The men
-recovered arms, were dismissed, and in ten minutes were dispersed over
-the parade ground, playing leap-frog, fencing, wrestling, foot-ball;
-while not a few were lighting fires, and boiling water for their evening
-gröd.
-
-Birger stepped on, to see if he could meet with his friend, while the
-other two, thinking that they should most likely be in the way among
-people who, if they spoke English or French at all, spoke it with
-difficulty; turned into the well-beaten track that led to the inn and
-landing place of Trollhättan.
-
-Before they arrived there the night had already closed in; that is to
-say, it had faded into twilight, for that is the nearest approach which
-a northern summer’s night makes to darkness. All that the travellers
-then saw of the inn was the light which, glancing from every window,
-beamed forth a welcome which it had evidently been beaming forth to
-others before them; judging from the din which arose from the evening
-relaxations of a dozen or so of jolly subalterns. These, who had money
-enough, or who fancied they had money enough to spend in luxury, had
-fixed their quarters at the inn, instead of the pretty looking green huts
-which their less wealthy or more prudent comrades had run up in the camp.
-
-In fact, the sitting rooms of the inn offered at that time fewer
-temptations than the very clean, bare bed-rooms, with their very white
-sheets, and very warm down coverlets. Winter and summer alike, the
-feather bed is uppermost, and here it was still; though the only reason
-why the windows were not left wide open all night, was the clouds of
-musquitos which, entering by them, menaced the repose of the sleepers.
-
-Jacob, whom the party had somewhat inconsiderately left in charge of
-the baggage, had, much to their surprise, deceived them all in making
-no mistake, and leaving nothing behind; the carioles had been landed,
-and were ready packed for their journey on the morrow, as duly as if the
-fishermen had seen to them themselves; but in his own country Jacob had
-become quite a different character, and piqued himself in showing to the
-Norwegians in his own person how vast was the superiority of the Swedes.
-
-Birger was not seen again till the party was collected at a sufficiently
-early hour of the morning round a magnificent breakfast of fruit and
-fish, which had been laid out under the verandah of the inn,—a narrow
-esplanade which looked out upon the yet quiet waters of the brimming
-Gotha, at the very point where they were gathering their strength for
-their first furious plunge.
-
-Most cataracts commence with a rapid: so still and calm was the Gotha
-at this point, that the esplanade in question was the general landing
-place from Wenersborg, and was furnished with iron rings for the purpose
-of mooring the boats, several of which, very fair specimens of Swedish
-boat-building, were hanging on to them, scarcely stretching out their
-respective painters, so gentle was the current. Among them lay a very
-handsome gig with bright sides, well scraped oars, and a white English
-ensign fluttering in the morning breeze; from which Moodie, who had come
-in state with four rowers, had just landed, and by means of which, the
-travellers were to complete their journey.
-
-In truth, Gäddebäck was not very accessible in any other way; it had been
-originally built as a pic-nic house by the Mayor of Wenersborg, who, when
-he had been half-ruined by the great fire that had taken place there the
-year before, was glad enough to contract his expenses, and to find a
-person to take it off his hands. It suited Moodie well enough, and its
-low rent suited him also, but there were not many men whom it would suit
-at all. It had been built exclusively for pleasure parties, and these
-were expected to arrive there either by boat or by sledge, according as
-the surface of the river was, water or ice. No one had ever troubled
-themselves with any other entrance, and it was no sort of drawback to the
-place in its original state, that communication with the main land was
-entirely cut off. The still, deep brook which gave to the place its name
-(pike brook), had spread out behind the house into a broad reedy morass,
-which in spring, during the floods, was a broad reedy lake, but in summer
-a sort of neutral ground, between land and water, through which was led
-a precarious track, which might be passed on wheel, or indeed on foot,
-provided the traveller did not object to very clear water, not much above
-his knees. The actual spot on which the house was situated in the middle
-of all this, was a patch of parky ground, abounding in beautiful timber,
-which was five or six feet above the general level; that part of it which
-lay next the river was firm, and hard, and covered with short green turf,
-but this subsided to landward, first into wet sponge, secondly into
-bog, and lastly into reedy water, in proportion as it receded from the
-river. The brook, divided by this patch of dry land, soaked into the main
-stream, on either end of it, completely insulating the domain.
-
-This suited Moodie exactly, for the little park was full of all sorts of
-grouse and other birds, which looked as if they were at perfect liberty,
-as indeed they were, only that having had their pinions cut, and not
-being able to swim, they could not pass the girdle of water—herons, and
-cranes, and bitterns, were stalking about, or watching for fish in the
-shallows, like their wild brethren, for though excellent waders, and
-quite in their element on the soppy shores to landward, they could not
-swim any more than the grouse. There were some deer, also, of various
-kinds, but as these had no sort of objection to take the water, they were
-confined in little paddocks, those being classed together who would keep
-the peace.
-
-On the esplanade, between the house and the river, lay a dozen dogs,
-mostly English, on excellent terms with the great brown bear, who, though
-perfectly tame, was secured from paying any inquisitive visits to the
-deer paddocks by a collar and chain, with which he was made fast to a
-substantial post at the door.
-
-The whole front of the house had been occupied by a ball-room, with
-windows opening into a verandah. This verandah had become a general
-marine store—oars, boat-hooks, masts, sails, were arranged along it on
-hooks; but so tidily and regularly were they disposed, that they looked
-as if they had been placed there for ornament;—fishing rods of all
-lengths were there, and a large assortment of eel-lines and night-lines,
-and trimmers, and gaffs, and pike-wires, and spears, and other poaching
-implements, together with a goodly assortment of drags and flues in the
-back ground; while a full-sized casting net, hung up to dry, displayed
-its leaded semi-circle to the sun: for be it remembered, Moodie made
-a profit of his pleasure, and not only kept his own establishment in
-fish, but very seldom allowed the Gotheborg steamer to pass without
-dispatching in her a heavy birchen basket, consigned to Jacob Lindegren,
-the fishmonger.
-
-Neither was the interior at all out of character: the ball-room had been
-divided by wooden partitions into three very tolerable apartments—an
-ante-room or broad passage in the middle, and on either side his dining
-room and what he called his study, that is to say, the place where he
-made his flies. The passage, which was sufficiently littered, contained
-little other furniture than a turning-lathe and a carpenter’s bench, with
-shelves and pigeon-holes round the sides for the necessary tools; but
-both rooms were pictures of tidiness; the furniture was plain enough,
-certainly, but the walls were covered with sketches, of Moodie’s own
-drawing, and with sporting trophies of every kind: huge bear skins and
-wolf skins occupied whole panels, surmounted, perhaps, by the grinning
-skull of a lynx, or a huge antlered head with the skin on; between these
-were cases containing most of the wild birds found in the country, all
-stuffed by his own hands; together with specimens of eggs, hung up in
-a pattern, but each labelled with the name of the bird it belonged to.
-Between the windows was a formidable armoury, while over one door was
-a stuffed otter, and over the other a wild cat, and the rug itself was
-formed of badgers’ skins bordered with fox; for Moodie had imported an
-English grate and had built a fire-place, besides the invariable stove.
-
-Such was the sportsman’s paradise, into which Moodie welcomed his guests.
-There was accommodation, such as it was, for an unlimited number of
-them; for there were several empty rooms of one sort or another; and a
-rough box, hastily run up with planks from the saw mills, filled with
-dry poplar leaves and covered with a bear skin, was a bed much better
-than any of them had been accustomed to. As for washing, their toilet
-apparatus was laid out every morning on the stage to which the boats
-were moored, and a dive into the river was the very best way of washing
-the face after shaving,—at least, so Moodie seemed to think, for though
-his room was pretty well fitted up, inasmuch as such toilet would be
-difficult in the winter, when the river was as hard as a stone, in summer
-he always chose the boat stage for his own dressing room, as well as for
-that of his guests.
-
-No one was sorry for a rest; journals had to be written up, notes had to
-be compared; there was something, too, in lounging lazily in the sun, or
-smoking a peaceful cigar under the shade of the awning, or teasing the
-bear, or feeding the grouse, and knowing all the while that there was no
-duty neglected, and no opportunity lost. Not but that excursions in a
-quiet way were made—now upon the water with the trolling tackle, now on
-the high grounds of the royal forest, now on neither land nor water, but
-on the marshy debateable land, astonishing the ducks that swarmed among
-the reed beds which divide the left bank of the river from the sound
-land; but nothing very particular was done, beyond existing in a very
-high state of quiet enjoyment.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIX.
-
-GÄDDEBÄCK.
-
- “I hung fine garments
- On two wooden men
- Who stand on the wall;
- Heroes they seemed to be
- When they were clothed;
- The unclad are despisèd.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-The day had been oppressively hot, more actual heat, perhaps—reckoning
-by the degrees of Reaumur or Farenheit—than had been experienced on the
-fjeld of the Tellemark;—but that was dry, bracing, exhilarating heat,
-such as is felt on the mountain side; this was the moist, feverish
-warmth, caused by the sun’s rays acting on the wide expanse of the Wener
-Sjön and its marshy shores, and secretly and imperceptibly drawing up
-vapours, which would eventually fall in rain,—not, perhaps, on the spot
-from which they had been raised, but on the cold distant mountains of
-Fille Fjeld, which at once attracted and condensed them. There was not a
-cloud in the sky, but the sun would not shine brightly or cheerily either.
-
-The long summer’s day was, however, drawing to a close, and the party
-were sitting at the extreme end of a little jetty which Moodie had built
-out into the river on piles of solid fir. This was covered with an awning
-of striped duck,—of little use as an awning so late in the day, for the
-sun was low enough to peep under it, but still kept up, partly to tempt
-the air of wind, which every now and then fluttered its vandyked border,
-and partly as a preservative against the dews, which would be sure to
-fall as soon as the sun dipped below the horizon.
-
-From a flag-staff, stepped on the outermost pile, hung a huge red English
-ensign, every now and then stirring in the breeze, half unrolling its
-lazy folds and then dropping motionless against its staff. Moodie was
-very particular about this flag, and hoisted it every morning with his
-own hands,—for ever since he had fairly turned his back upon his native
-land, he had become intensely national.
-
-In the front and beneath them the broad, clear, deep, still, brimming
-river, full four hundred yards from bank to bank, glided quietly along
-with a calm unbroken surface, and a motion hardly sufficient to bring
-a strain upon the chain cable of the little cutter that was moored
-some twenty yards off the head of the pier, with her triangular burgee
-fluttering out in the breeze that was not strong enough to move the
-heavier ensign, and displaying the red cross and the golden R.Y.S. so
-well known in every port in Europe. It was a singular thing to see it
-here though, a hundred miles in the heart of Sweden, with the tremendous
-Falls of Trollhättan between it and the sea.
-
-Made fast to the rails of the jetty were half a dozen boats, of all
-shapes and sizes—from the long narrow galley with its four well-scraped
-ashen oars, to the little white flat-bottomed duck-punt,—for Gäddebäck,
-though not, strictly speaking, an island, except during the freshets of
-early summer, was so perfectly insulated by the sluggish brook and the
-marshy ground through which it flowed, as to make all communication with
-the main land, except by boat, extremely precarious.
-
-Dinner had been over for some time, and the party had adjourned to the
-jetty, as the coolest place they could find. They were sitting with their
-wine glasses before them, while two or three bottles of light claret were
-towing overboard, suspended in the cool water of the river by as many
-night-lines.
-
-“Upon my word,” said the Captain, throwing open his waistcoat, “the
-West Indies is a fool to this; and it is not unlike a tropical climate
-either,—moist, damp, and hot,—stewing rather than broiling.”
-
-“To tell you the truth,” said the Parson, “I am surprised at your
-selecting this spot for your residence, beautiful as it certainly is;
-with all this marsh land about it, it cannot fail to be unhealthy.”
-
-“Well, I do not know,” said Moodie, “they do talk of agues, certainly,
-but these things never hurt me, and the place suits me well enough; there
-is plenty of shooting—ducks and snipes without end; and on the other side
-of that range of heights, not three miles from us, is a royal forest,
-well preserved, in which I have full permission to kill anything I like,
-except stags, elks, and perhaps peasants, though they do not make much
-fuss about a man or two either; and, besides, the Ofwer Jagmästere is
-a particular friend of mine. And as for fishing, it is not altogether
-such as I should choose, no doubt, for it is mostly trolling,—but there
-is some capital fishing, such as it is. I will show you what we can
-do to-morrow at the upper rapids,—we have not been there yet. It is a
-singular sort of sport, certainly; but if you are half the poacher you
-used to be, you will like it for its novelty. However, the greatest
-attraction that the place has in my eyes, lies in its situation: this
-river is the high road from Gotheborg to Stockholm, and steamers pass it
-every day. Living on this Robinson Crusoe island of mine, I can command
-the best market in the country, and in fact, I do realize a very fair
-income by my fish and my game. Look at my yacht, too, where else could I
-put it to so great use. A short canal and a single lock passes me into
-the great lake Wener, where I command some of the best rivers and some
-of the best bear-country in Sweden. If I want to smell salt water again,
-I have but to put my cutter in tow of the market-tug, and to steam away
-to Gotheborg; and when I want to be sulky, here I am, looking after my
-menagerie of Scandinavian birds and beasts, and adding odds and ends
-to my museum. I dare say people wonder at the old flag ‘that braved a
-thousand years, the battle and the breeze,’ as they pass backward and
-forward in the steamers; but no one stops here, and you may be sure no
-one would find me out by land. This is just the place for me; besides, it
-is not always so hot as it is now,—I have driven my cariole across this
-river, many a time.”
-
-“By the way, what do you do with yourself in the winter?” said the
-Captain; “you were never very much given to reading, and your shooting
-and fishing must fail you then.”
-
-“Fishing, yes; shooting, no,” said Moodie; “the finest bear shooting is
-in the winter.”
-
-“What! do you meet with bears in the forest?”
-
-“Pooh, nonsense! you Englishmen are always fancying that we kick bears
-out of every bush in Sweden.”
-
-“You Englishmen!” said Birger, glancing at the flag.
-
-“Well, well,—you Johnny Raws, I should say,—you freshmen—you griffins. I
-was just as bad myself, though: I remember the day I landed at Gotheborg,
-marching off with my gun over my shoulder to a little wooded valley at
-the back of the town where the Gotheborg cockneys have their villas, and
-attacking a Swede, dictionary in hand, with ‘Hvar er Bjornerne’—how the
-scoundrel laughed.”
-
-“Well, but what do you mean by bear shooting then,—where do you meet with
-it?”
-
-“Why, you travel a hundred miles to get a shot at a bear, and think
-little of it too. The bear hunter must keep up a correspondence with
-the Ofwer Jagmästerer of the different provinces, and get information
-whenever the peasants have ringed a bear as they call it—that is to say,
-ascertained that he is within a certain circle, and then out with the
-sledge and the dogs, and the rifles, and away up the river, or across the
-lake, as it may be. You do not meet with a bear at every turning, I can
-assure you. I have killed a pretty many though, one way or other, since I
-have been here.”
-
-“That you have,” said the Captain,—“at least, if all those trophies that
-ornament your walls are honestly come by; but by your own showing, you
-cannot be hunting every day in the week; what do you do on the off-days?”
-
-“Well, to tell you the truth, I was dull enough the first winter; you
-will hardly believe it, but I took to reading—I did indeed; you may
-laugh, but it is quite true. I got up the natural history of the country
-thoroughly, and crammed Linnæus. But I soon found something better to
-do, when I began to get acquainted with the people, worthy souls that
-they are. I had invitations without end, and got on capitally with
-them,—quite a popular character I am.”
-
-“The English are popular,” said the Parson, certainly; “high and low
-we have found that, wherever we have been. What we English have done
-to deserve it is more than I can say; but Norway and Sweden, agreeing
-in nothing else, agree at all events in doing honour to the English
-traveller.”
-
-“Do not be taking the conceit out of Moodie”, said Birger; “it is evident
-that he would have you to understand that it is he, the individual,—not
-he, the Englishman, who is thus honoured and caressed.”
-
-“You need not be afraid of doing that,” said the Captain; “ever since I
-have known him, Moodie has been a very great man,—in his own eyes, at all
-events.”
-
-“Why, you must know I am a great man here,” said Moodie, “whatever I was
-in my own country. I am a kammerjunker—no less.”
-
-“A what?” said the Captain.
-
-“A kammerjunker; and, in virtue of it, I have a right to go before every
-one of you.”
-
-“Well, but how came you to be a what-do-you-call-him? ‘Who gave you that
-name?’ as the Catechism says.”
-
-“Not ‘my godfathers and godmothers,’ certainly,” said Moodie, “and I
-hadn’t it ‘in my baptism;’ but I will tell you how it was. Sweden, in
-the winter, is as different from the same country in the summer as
-Connaught from Paradise. In the winter, they are fiddling, and dancing,
-and singing, from night to morn, and from morn to snowy eve. There is
-not much else to do, as you say, that is the truth of it, unless one
-happens to hear of a bear; so when I came to understand a little of
-their lingo, I was very glad to go to their jollifications. The people
-were always very civil in asking me, wherever I was—that I must say for
-them. Now we, in England, don’t care much about precedence, as you know.
-Most of us do not know who is first and who is last, and the rest do not
-care; and those who feel most secure of their rank, are generally too
-proud to take the trouble of asserting it. But it is not so here; they
-all know their places, like schoolboys, and fight for them like dogs
-at a feeding-trough if you happen to make a mistake about them—a thing
-which the natives never do. I did not care much about this at first, no
-Englishman would,—in fact, I did not understand it; but after a bit it
-got to be very unpleasant—it made me a marked man. Here was I, an English
-gentleman, as noble as the king—and a little more so than that Brummagem
-article of theirs,—shoved down, not only by counts and barons, which I
-did not like over and above; for half the people you meet with here are
-counts and barons,—and precious queer ones, some of them; but, besides
-this, there were their confounded orders of knighthood: there are knights
-of the Cherubim and Seraphim[45], and knights of the Elephant and Castle,
-and knights of the Goose and Gridiron, and Heaven knows what besides.
-Then came the officials, from the prime minister down to the post-master,
-and their sons and grandsons. Why, there was not a tradesman I dealt
-with, hardly a beggar I gave a shilling to, who had not a clear right to
-go before me—aye, and showed every disposition to exercise it, too!
-
-“One day I was ass enough to be vexed because my tailor, who was knight
-of the Shears and Cabbage, or something of the sort, elbowed his way
-before me; and one of my friends, I think it was this very Bjornstjerna,
-the Ofwer Jagmästere, offered to get me a settled precedence. ‘Yours
-is not a new family,’ says he.—Of course it was not, everybody knew
-the Moodies, of Hampshire.—Well, that was all right; I had only to
-get my sixteen quarters blazoned, and he would see that I was made a
-kammerjunker. Sixteen quarters! thought I. I had had a great grandfather,
-that is certain, for there he lies in Havant Church, with a ton of marble
-over him, and his arms on the top of that, a chevron ermine between three
-mermaids ppr. to cheer him up on his road to Paradise. He was a great
-man, too, and looked as if he was the son of somebody, as the Spaniards
-say, to judge by the picture of his coach-and-six, and outriders with
-French-horns, which is hanging up in our hall, at Havant Manor. But he
-had played ‘ducks and drakes’ with his guineas, and as for his quarters,
-you know we don’t greatly trouble ourselves with such matters.
-
-“Well, I told my difficulty to one of my friends in Stockholm—an idle
-young scamp of an _attaché_. ‘Why the devil don’t you write to the
-Herald’s College,’ said he, ‘they will trace your descent from the
-Preadamite Grants,[46] if you pay for it. Tell them to make you up a
-pedigree for Sweden, and, my life for it, they will get it up well.’
-
-“I could not lose by it, you know, so I wrote, and, sure enough, they
-found out that the old family had come over with Duke Rollo, and had
-a hand in that conquest of ‘Normandie,’ which your fellow Torkel is
-continually dinning into our ears. They found out, too, that our name
-originally was spelt ‘Modige,’ which, in old Swedish, means ‘dashing,’
-and that it was a title of honour, given to us for our gallantry in the
-said conquest. And, what was pat to the present purpose, Duke Rollo
-had conferred on us the honour of hereditary chamberlains, as soon as
-ever he had a court to appoint us to. How we came to England I forget—I
-suppose, though, it was with Duke William,—and what we did there I do
-not know, unless it was plundering the Saxons, like the rest; but, at
-all events, I got a string of shields, fit to roof Valhalla, and a
-beautiful tree—rather an expensive plant it was, though, for I paid
-sixty pounds for it. However, Bjornstjerna and my friend the _attaché_
-marched off with the chevron ermine and the three mermaids to the
-Hof-Ofwer-Something-or-other, and brought me back a sheet of parchment
-with a big seal hanging from it, giving me the privilege of pulling off
-the inexpressibles of the third prince of the blood royal—whenever it
-should please Providence to bless his Majesty with one,—and in virtue of
-that office to style myself kammerjunker.”
-
-“So you are a greater man than your tailor, now?”
-
-“O yes,” said Moodie, “I take precedence of all manner of people, and
-moreover wear, whenever I please—which is not very often, you may be
-sure,—a concern in my button-hole, something like what I used to wear
-when I was Noble Grand of the Julius Cæsar Lodge of Oddfellows, at South
-Marden. You may depend upon it I am something very great indeed, though I
-must admit I do not know exactly what.”
-
-“Very great indeed!” said Birger, who, as may be supposed, did not
-feel his country particularly flattered by Moodie’s absurd—not to say
-ungrateful—description of his honours, and retorted with a bit of Swedish
-slang: “I am sure you are something ending in ‘ral,’ as the Karing’s wife
-said to her husband; it certainly is not admiral—perhaps it is corporal?”
-
-“Upon my word, Birger, I beg your pardon,” said Moodie, in some
-confusion. “You speak English so perfectly, and look so like an
-Englishman, that I forgot we are not all countrymen together.”
-
-“Well, well,” said Birger, good humouredly, “I must confess there is a
-great deal too much of truth in your satire, and that is what makes the
-sting of it.”
-
-“Never mind him, Birger,” said the Parson; “you Swedes are uncommon fine
-fellows, and carry your honours in your history; I should like to know
-what Europe would have done in the thirty years war, if it had not been
-for Gustaf Adolph and Oxenstjerna? Why, it was you who thrashed Czar
-Peter and all the Russias into something like civilization, and were the
-making of his armies by licking them. Gallantly, too, did you hold your
-own, under the other Gustaf, against the giant you had made; and I have
-no doubt but that you would have thrashed the French giant Nap., as well
-as the Russian giant Peter, if you had only made up your minds in time
-which side you meant to fight on. But for all that, it is a fact, as
-Moodie says, that, like the girls, you are a little too fond of ribbons.”
-
-“It is very true,” said Birger; “we depreciate our own honours by our
-over-lavish distribution of them. That which is plentiful, is cheap—that
-which is little, valued. It is the law of nature, and as true of stars
-and ribbons as it is of green peas and early potatoes.”
-
-“To be sure it is,” said the Captain; “what regiment in our service cares
-a button for the distinction of ‘Royal,’ which it shares with the Royal
-African condemned corps? Who prizes the Waterloo medal, which places in
-the same category the Englishman who fought and the Belgian who ran?”
-
-“Yes,” said Moodie, who had by this time done blushing at his blunder,
-“at the Congress of Vienna, Lord Castlereagh sat among the starry host of
-plenipotentiaries in a plain blue coat, without one solitary decoration.
-‘Ma foi! c’est bien distingué,’ said good Bishop Talleyrand, who himself
-had a star for every oath he had broken, and whose tailor could not find
-room on his coat for all of them!”
-
-“It was ‘distingué,’” said the Captain; “he belonged to a country whose
-citizens do their duty for their duty’s sake. That is distinction enough
-for any man.”
-
-“Yes,” said Birger, “_if they do_—but a good deal depends on that little
-particle;—however, even if citizens could be got, whenever wanted, to do
-their duty for their duty’s sake, which I doubt; distinctions, which of
-course involve precedence, are useful in themselves. In your country,
-people are always jealously guarding their position in society; you are
-always on the look out, lest some interloper should thrust you out, or
-refuse you the honour you consider your due. This is what makes you
-Englishmen so unsociable and exclusive; you are always on guard, walking
-sentry over your own honour. Now look at our people—our barons and our
-tradesmen, our princes and our farmers, all meet together without fear of
-losing caste, because every one has his position secured to him, beyond
-the possibility of invasion. You dare not do this.”
-
-“Do not say, ‘you,’” broke in the Captain, “I, thank God! am a gentleman
-born, and have not to work for my daily dignity.”
-
-“That is only another instance of what I assert—‘a gentleman born!’ you
-can afford to do what we all do, because, by birth or by accident, you
-find yourself in the very position in which we Swedes are all placed by
-the customs of our country.”
-
-“That is all very true,” said the Parson; “for the amenities of life,
-I grant your system is by far the best; men live happier and more
-contentedly under it; and it certainly does produce a much more genial
-and social intercourse among all classes, that men are dependent for
-their dignity on something else than their wine merchant and their
-pastry-cook. Still, yours is not the condition of progress; your people
-live content, perhaps happy, in their fixed position; but every man of
-ours, who is working for his daily dignity, as the Captain calls it,
-is, in a very unpleasant and uncomfortable manner, pressing onward and
-improving his own condition. Now, that nation in which every man is
-continually excited to improve his condition, is nationally progressive;
-that, in which every man is content in his own place, is nationally
-stationary. I do not say which is the best principle, only, there is
-something to be said on the other side. One thing is certain, our
-principle is not the same as yours; and it is excusable, when we do
-borrow from the continent, if we make a generous blunder in a science
-which we do not understand, and in the largeness of our heart, give
-medals to runaway Belgians, without remembering that the honour of
-the medal lies not in the silver, but in the action which the silver
-commemorates, and that, in truth, what we have given to the cowards who
-ran, we must have filched from the brave fellows who had earned for that
-medal its value.”
-
-“So far, at all events, you are right,” said Birger, “that your nation
-does not understand the science of decorations any more than ours. You
-helped to spoil your own Waterloo medal much more than ever the Belgians
-spoiled it, and that not altogether from your largeness of heart. If I
-had been a pink-faced ensign of that day, I should have been ashamed to
-wear my medal in the presence of a Peninsular veteran, who had done five
-hundred times as much as I. It was a better feeling than that of being
-ranked with the Belgians that made your people shy of their Waterloo
-medals. And now that you begin to distribute your decorations, you do
-not know how to do it: first of all you give it for any little trumpery
-affair, like sticking those Chinese pigs, and then you give it to all who
-have seen the smoke of the gunpowder.”
-
-“We presume that every one present does his duty, and that none can do
-more,” said the Captain.
-
-“A very pretty poetical fiction,” said Birger, “pity that it is a
-fiction. However, one thing is certain—that will never be prized that is
-shared by all alike; you see that at once in our case—it is equally true
-in you own.”
-
-Just then the Stockholm steamer, _Daniel Thunberg_, hove in sight, with
-her light blue pennant of smoke, so unlike the black volumes that roll
-from the chimneys of coal-burning Englishmen.
-
-“They have got something on board for us,” said Moodie; “that calico
-concern on her foremast is their best Swedish imitation of our English
-jack, and they always hoist it whenever they have got a letter or
-parcel for me. There goes a gun; those rascals are always glad of any
-opportunity for making a bang. Hallo, there! Nils!” continued he, in
-Swedish, to the master of his yacht, who had gone to sleep against the
-heel of the bowsprit, with his pipe in his mouth; “answer that signal,
-and send a boat on board the steamer.”
-
-He spoke as if he had a frigate’s crew at his command. Nils started
-up, and as he happened, at that moment at least, to be the captain and
-the whole ship’s company in his own person, he proceeded to obey both
-orders personally—in a few minutes was alongside the gay little craft,
-and returned with a letter, the writer of which, to judge from the
-superscription he placed upon it, must have considered Moodie a very
-great man indeed, so many titles did he prefix to his name—High-born and
-Illustrious were the very least of them.
-
-Moodie, a little afraid of the Captain’s satire—though the direction,
-after all, was nothing more than the ordinary Swedish form in which
-one gentleman addresses another, and quite as appropriate as our much
-mis-used esquire,—crumpled up the envelope in great haste.
-
-“Hurrah!” said he, flourishing the letter over his head, “this is the
-very thing for us—you are in high luck; look here.”
-
-“What is it?” said the Captain, for the letter, which was in Swedish and
-written in the Swedish character, might as well have been Cyrillic or
-Uncial, for anything he could make out of it.
-
-“Why, there is to be a skal in Wermeland, next Tuesday; a grand bear
-hunt, in which they drive twenty or thirty miles of country; this letter
-is from the very man I have been speaking of—Bjornstjerna, the Ofwer
-Jagmästere, and my own particular friend. Some half dozen respectable
-farmers have made oath to him that they have been annoyed by bears, and
-he tells me he has written to the præster of the neighbourhood, to give
-notice from their pulpits, and to turn out the whole country. That is the
-legal form on such occasions, and there is a heavy fine for any man who
-does not obey it.”
-
-“Hurrah!” said the Captain, in his turn, “then we shall kill a bear at
-last.”
-
-“That you will,” said Moodie; “Bjornstjerna knows his business as well
-as any man in Sweden; there are people who fancy his patronymic a
-nick-name[47] of his own earning. He would not be turning out the country
-for nothing, you may depend on it.”
-
-“Where is this to take place?”
-
-“Why, in Upper Wermeland, as I told you, near Lysvic, not very far from
-the banks of the Klara, a river I know well, as full of grayling as it
-can hold; not that that has much to do with bear hunting. It is not above
-a hundred and fifty or two hundred miles from this.”
-
-“Quite in the neighbourhood,” said the Captain, laughing.
-
-“O that is nothing, we never mind a hundred miles or so. If we get
-anything like a breeze, we will run across the Wener, in the yacht, we
-can send the carioles on by land to Amal, and we will pick up a waggon,
-or something, for the men, at there or at Carlstad; and then you will
-see how we will rattle up the country. We must send a boat, though, to
-Wenersborg this very night, and tell the post-master to make out a forbud
-for us; it will not do to trust to chance on such an occasion as this,
-for we shall have to collect a good many horses at every station. Let me
-see, we shall want one for each of us, and three for the waggon, that
-will make seven; and I suppose they will charge half a horse more besides
-the forbud; for we shall have four men with us, and we must take things
-enough to make us comfortable, for I dare say we shall have a week in
-the forest, one way or the other. Come, finish that bottle, and we will
-go in and have some coffee; it is not so well to stay out here at night
-when that blue mist is hanging on the swamp; besides, these rascally
-musquitoes are anything but pleasant.”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XX.
-
-WENERN.
-
- “The Night has covered her beauty. Her hair sighs on Ocean’s
- wind. Her robe streams in dusky wreaths. She is like the fair
- Spirit of heaven in the midst of its shadowy mist.
-
- “From the wood-skirted waters of Lago ascend at times
- grey-bosomed mists, when the gates of the West are closed on
- the Sun’s eagle eye. Wide over Lara’s stream is poured the
- vapour dark and deep. The Moon, like a dim shield, is swimming
- through its folds.
-
- “‘Spread the sail,’ said the King; ‘seize the winds as they
- pour from Lena.’ We rose on the wave with songs,—we rushed with
- joy through the foam of the deep.”
-
- _Ossian._
-
-
- “So peaceful, calm, and leaden grey,
- Beneath our keel the waters lay,
- Parting around the vessel’s prow
- With rippling murmur, sweet and low,—
- And rising slowly from the lake,
- The wreathing mists asunder break—
- Revealing all concealed before
- Of forest, hill, and rocky shore.”
-
- _Anon._
-
-
-There was no great stir next morning at Gäddebäck, considering the
-importance of the expedition; as for preparations, no more preparation
-was necessary than is necessary for a detachment of soldiers that has
-received its route; the guns and ammunition were paraded, and the
-knapsacks were packed in light marching order; the carioles had been
-despatched over night to the post-master at Wenersborg, under the charge
-of Piersen and one of Moodie’s people, with directions to send on a
-forebud, and then to proceed by land to Amal; and the cutter having
-received her freight, had, on the preceding evening, hauled out into the
-stream in order to be taken in tow by the night steamer, for Wenersborg.
-Moodie had determined that there was no need of disappointing himself
-or his friends of their day’s fishing at the upper rapids, seeing that
-they might easily be taken on the road. He proposed, therefore, joining
-the cutter at Wenersborg in the evening, and making the passage to Amal
-by night, observing, that by getting what sleep they could while at sea,
-they would lose no time, and might start immediately on landing.
-
-“This is rather close shaving, Moodie,” said the Captain, as they sat at
-breakfast the following morning,—rather an early breakfast, for Moodie
-meant to give the fishing-ground what he called a full due.—“You have
-made the evening breeze an element in your calculation; we shall be in a
-mess if this night is anything like the last.”
-
-“O, but it will not be, ‘you see ghosts by daylight,’ as our people say;
-there is always a breeze on the open lake, it is not like this valley;
-besides, if it does fail us, we have only to post; there is a regular
-posting track across the lake, with stations on the islands, where they
-keep boats in the summer and horses in the winter. If the breeze does
-fail us, which I tell you it will not, we have only to send the dingy to
-Leckö or Lurön, whichever we may be nearest to, and get boats enough to
-carry us all.”
-
-The Parson made no opposition, though in his heart he agreed with the
-Captain that the experiment might very possibly involve the loss of
-their ultimate object, the skål; the salmo ferox was, however, a new
-fish to him, and notwithstanding all he had said in its disparagement
-on the banks of the Torjedahl, he would not much have liked to lose his
-chance of landing one. By his advice a light rod or two were added to the
-baggage,—for the rivers north of the Wener abound in grayling, though,
-strange to say, these delicate fish are never found south of it.
-
-The four-oared gig being the fastest pulling boat, carried them up the
-stream to the point at which the great canal leaves the river; beyond
-this it ceases to be navigable on account of its rocks and rapids, but
-for this very reason becomes much more valuable as a fishing preserve.
-At these rapids, which was the crack station of all Moodie’s fishery,
-was a sort of out-post, where he had a keeper’s house, with a separate
-establishment of boats. The Captain turned up his eyes a little at
-hearing of this fresh proof of his friend’s magnificence; but it sounds
-grander to English ears than it is in fact, for Moodie made money by
-his fishery, and of course required men, not only to preserve it, but
-to catch the fish while he was absent on any roving expedition like the
-present; and as for boats, where planks may be had at the saw-mills for
-almost nothing, and where every man is more or less of a carpenter,
-rough fishing punts are articles of very small expense indeed, and are
-generally built at home.
-
-It is said that the great lake, Wener, even now the largest in Europe,
-was once much larger; that it once extended to the falls of Trollhättan;
-that all the low-lying and marshy shores, which are now the delight
-of ducks and the glory of musquitoes, were once under water, but that
-the stream having gradually worked its way over the falls, like a saw,
-continually wearing away the rock from which it fell, and carrying it
-off, portion by portion, opened a deeper passage, and that the lake has
-gradually receded to its present limits.
-
-This of course, happened in Preadamite times, or, to use the language
-of the allegorical history of creation supplied by the prose Edda—in
-those days, “before the sons of Bör had slain the giant Ymir.”[48] And
-certainly the formation of the valley afforded some grounds for the
-conjecture: two low lines of hills, steep and cliff-shaped, suggested
-readily the idea of Preadamite banks; while the flat bottom of the
-valley, in many places irrecoverably marshy, in all liable to be covered
-with water whenever the river is in flood, looked quite as much like the
-bottom of a drained pond as it did like the real land. It was not without
-its beauty, either; if ever it had been a lake, it must have been a
-lake studded with low islands, and these, as well as much of the marshy
-ground, were covered with forests, hiding, by the luxuriance of their
-growth, the numerous cultivated spots which intervened.
-
-It was a very different description of scenery to that of Norway
-certainly, for the hills of Hunneberg and Halleberg, which bound the view
-to the east and contain some very valuable limestone quarries, are, what
-limestone soil invariably is, tame and monotonous. They, however, abound
-in oak—a very rare tree in the north,—and also in deer and roe-bucks,
-which are not common either, but this being a royal forest, they were
-probably better looked after than they are in private lands, and Moodie,
-who, practically, had the rangership, as he was the only man allowed to
-shoot there, was scrupulously particular, and would as soon have thought
-of shooting a keeper as of shooting a deer.
-
-The rapids are formed by a ridge of rock which crosses the river, over
-which it pours down one or two steps leaving deep broad pools of eddying
-water between them. The whole of this part of the river is overhung with
-trees of the largest growth which Sweden affords, and is as beautiful a
-spot as any they had seen. As the rocks are extremely rugged, the river
-is of very unequal breadth,—the banks, at one place, approaching so near
-to each other, that an Alpine bridge is formed of pine trees thrown
-across it. Four of the longest firs that could be found, with their
-stems resting on the rocks, are tied together in pairs, at their upper
-ends, by means of two iron bands, forming a broad Gothic arch. This is
-the skeleton of the bridge; the horizontal timbers, which were laid for
-the footways, passed them at about a third of their height, like the
-cross-bar of the letter A, and formed ties to steady them as well as to
-support the rest of the structure. It was an exceedingly picturesque
-affair, and told well for the ingenuity of the architect.
-
-This bridge was their first stage. The keeper’s hut commanded the pools
-both above and below the bridge, and had establishments of boats for both
-divisions of the river—for there was considerable difficulty in getting a
-boat from one to the other.
-
-The salmo ferox, when small, is often caught with a fly, and may be so
-caught when fourteen or sixteen pounds weight, but this is not a very
-common occurrence. The usual way of fishing for him is with a large litch
-of six pairs of hooks and a lip-hook, very heavily loaded and baited
-with a bleak or a gwinead, of which there are plenty in the river. A
-boat is absolutely necessary. The fisherman stands in the stern, and
-runs out some thirty yards of the line heavily loaded, with a short
-stiff pike-rod; the boat must be kept continually traversing the stream,
-beginning at the head of it and quartering it down to the foot, while
-the troller at the stern, with the point of his rod low, keeps his bait
-spinning in jerks,—the object being to imitate a sick or wounded fish.
-At each turn of the boat, the line must be gathered in by the hand, or
-the edges of the rapids, which indeed are the most likely parts, would be
-untried; four out of five fish are caught while the boats are in the act
-of turning.
-
-This rather monotonous description of sport had gone on for some time,
-when the Parson felt the rod nearly taken out of his hand by the rush
-of a fish. The battle was furious, for the salmo ferox does not belie
-his name, but it was a mere trial of tackle, without any opportunity for
-the exercise of skill,—carried on, too, at the bottom of water twenty
-feet deep; and when, after a quarter of an hour’s boring against the
-bottom, the Parson succeeded in bringing to the gaff his huge capture, he
-declared he had done enough for fame, struck up his rod, sought the lower
-pool in pursuit of gös and id, with which, as well as with trout, it was
-said to abound.
-
-The Swedes say that gös is a fish very difficult to catch; to an
-Englishman, by far the most difficult part of the business is to name
-the fish when he has caught it. Certainly, no one is qualified to do so
-who speaks of Göthe under his English appellations of Goth and Goaty:
-the dotted o affects and softens the preceding consonant as well as the
-vowel, and the name of this fish is pronounced much as if it was spelt
-“yeus,” in French letters. The difficulty experienced by the Swedes in
-catching it, arises from the fact of its requiring fine tackle in the
-clear waters which it frequents, instead of the coarse gimp or wire which
-is sufficient for the rash and headlong pike; in all other respects the
-habits of the two fish are very similar, except that the gös is a much
-smaller fish, and very much more prized. For him, the Parson was content
-with setting lay-lines with live baits and considerable length of fine
-gut, while he directed his personal attention to the id.
-
-In every particular, except one, the id is a chub; his haunts, his
-habits, his food are those of a chub; in looks, too—though certainly not
-altogether so clumsy, and, so to speak, chubby,—he reminds one forcibly
-of the chub family. He is something like the half-polished parvenu in his
-transition state of existence, just admitted into aristocratic circles,
-but, as yet, unable entirely to lay aside his brandy-and-water habits
-and feelings. In every particular, _except one_, the id is a chub, and
-that is, that he is by far the best eating of any of the cyprinæ; in
-fact, so far as the pot goes, he is a very respectable prize. The Parson,
-who, in his youth, had caught many a chub, and was fully aware of the
-zoological affinity of the two fish, was by no means at a loss for
-subjects of mutual interest between himself and his new introduction; a
-fly, resembling, as near as it could be made on the spur of the moment,
-a humble-bee, was tied on his finest gut, and the boat, anchored in
-the stern, was by slow degrees permitted to descend within long-cast
-of a still, over-shaded pool: the fly, thrown from as great a distance
-as he could command, fell as lightly as so clumsy a combination of fur
-and feathers could be expected to fall, and was moved very slowly and
-regularly over, or rather through, the water; for, as it may be supposed,
-the length of line caused it to sink a few inches below the surface.
-
-His science was not unrewarded, for, before long, a sluggish roll in the
-waters, and a strong, obstinate, pig-headed pull at his line announced a
-capture. This was quickly followed by others, for id, though gregarious,
-are quite as indifferent to the troubles of their neighbours as if they
-were human creatures; provided you do not show yourself and alarm them
-for their individual safety, their friend may kick and struggle before
-their eyes, without causing a single wag of their selfish tails.
-
-It was not bad fun upon the whole, for the id, though not possessing a
-tithe of the life and activity of the salmo genus, pull like donkeys,
-and might have lasted some time longer, for the Parson was getting
-interested, when Jacob was seen making his leisurely way along the
-bank, for the purpose of announcing “mid-dag’s mad.” The ground was
-sufficiently tangled, and Torkel, who was managing the boat and landing
-the fish, was extremely amused at the air of vexation and annoyance
-with which he dipped under a low-spreading fir branch, or put aside a
-too affectionate bramble. About a hundred yards above the id pool was a
-little beach of the whitest and smoothest sand that ever fairy danced
-upon. From the point where the boat was anchored, it was evident that
-this was caused by a little dull-looking stream, which had brought the
-white particles from the hills during the floods; but which then, very
-suspiciously, did _not_ run into the river, but lost itself behind the
-white beach. All this was lost upon Jacob, who was in the wood, and who,
-not liking the tangled ground, made a valorous jump on to the white beach.
-
-“Der var et spring af en Leerovn!” shouted Torkel, quoting a Danish
-proverb (“there was a jump for a tile-stove!”)—as poor Jacob flopped
-through the thin crust of white sand into a bed of black, tenacious
-clay, in which he seemed planted up to his middle, with his long flowing
-coat-tails spread out upon the unbroken sand.
-
-The more he screamed with fear, the more they screamed with laughter.
-There was not the slightest danger, for he had evidently got as far as he
-meant to sink; but as for getting out without a purchase from something
-solid, the thing was impossible.
-
-“We must have another fish,” said Torkel, to make up the dozen; “and it
-will be impossible to get Jacob out without spoiling the pool by pulling
-the boat across it.”
-
-The Parson coolly took another cast,—Jacob screamed louder than ever.
-
-“Bother that fellow,—I have missed him,” said the Parson, meaning not
-Jacob, but the fish.
-
-“Try again,” said Torkel, coolly, “you will get him next time.”
-
-A despairing shriek from Jacob.
-
-“Ah! that is in him!—this is the biggest we have had yet! mind what you
-are about with the landing-net,—do not let him run under the boat!
-Well, really, we must pull out poor Jacob, or he will poison us with bad
-cookery, out of revenge. Up killick! or whatever you call it in your
-language, and shove across to him.”
-
-But when they landed, they seemed as far from the rescue as ever. Jacob
-had jumped vigorously, and the bank from which he had jumped was high. To
-reach him was impossible, and to get out on the sand would be to share
-his fate. While Torkel was trying to slip down the bank, the Parson took
-out his knife to cut a branch.
-
-“Stop! stop!” said Torkel, who, unsuccessful, had scrambled back. “What
-are you doing?—we shall all suffer for this; it is elder that you are
-cutting.”
-
-“Well! what then?”
-
-“Why, if we take it without asking for it, the elves will have power over
-us for nine days, and the chances are, some of us will die suddenly.”
-
-The Parson was inclined to laugh, but he did not, and turned to look for
-a branch of less dangerous wood; but Torkel, placing himself before it,
-taking off his hat and bowing three times to the tree, said, “Elf-mother!
-elf-mother! let me have some of thy elder, and I will give thee something
-of mine.”
-
-The elf-mother certainly did not refuse, and Torkel took silence for
-consent, which it proverbially is, and cut away at the bough, which,
-stripped of its side branches, formed a communication with the imbedded
-Jacob, who, black without and sulky within, and, as Torkel said, looking
-more like a pig than ever, was dragged floundering to the shore,—not at
-all the more pleased when Torkel reminded him that, as they were in light
-marching order, he would have to wash his shirt, trousers, and stockings,
-and to sit without them till they were dry.
-
-When the party met at their mid-dag’s mad, which was not till long
-after the Swedish time for mid-dag’s mad had passed, there was a very
-respectable show of fish—not only enough for the cutter, but also a very
-handsome basket for the Gotheborg steamer that evening, which was duly
-packed and forwarded in a light cart to the locks; while the party,
-shouldering their weapons and that part of their prize which they had
-reserved for themselves, took the forest path to Wenersborg. Before
-sundown they were safely established on board the little cutter, who
-immediately tripped her anchor, hoisted jib and foresail—for the mainsail
-was already set,—payed off slowly before it, and stood out into the lake,
-which was glowingly reflecting the red beams of the setting sun, but
-still faintly rippling under the easterly breeze.
-
-“Did not I tell you so?” said Moodie, who, seating himself with his legs
-dangling down the well, had assumed the tiller just as a gentleman drives
-his own carriage; “we have had a capital day’s sport, and got a glorious
-breakfast for to-morrow. I have turned a few bancos, which will help to
-pay for the trip, and here we are, resting from our labours while the
-wind is carrying us on our journey.”
-
-“I hope it will stand,” said old Nils, “but it is easterly, you see, and
-the sun is setting; the wind does not like to blow in the face of the
-sun.”
-
-“Go to the—Strömkarl—your old croaker, and check the main-sheet; you
-have got the sail a fathom too flat. The wind is drawing round to the
-southward, as any one may see; ease off the jib and foresail too, while
-you are about it.”
-
-The fact was, that the wind had stood steady enough, but Moodie, in his
-anxiety, had let her fall off a couple of points, which Nils saw, but
-was too sulky to mention, and which the rest of the party did not see,
-because, as strangers, they were ignorant of the true course, and there
-was no binnacle, or, so far as they could see, compass of any kind,
-besides those they had in their pockets.
-
-The cutter was half-decked, with a tidy little cabin forward, and a
-couple of bunks for sleeping—one on each side of the well; in these the
-party very shortly disposed themselves, for they knew that a pretty stiff
-day’s work lay before them; and having established the best defence in
-their power against the musquitoes, slept as campaigners sleep, in right
-down earnest.
-
-“Hallo, Nils! where are we?” asked a sleepy voice next morning.
-
-The Captain, who had curled himself into the opposite bunk, was not quite
-certain whether it was not still a part of his dreams.
-
-The next call was quite enough to settle this fact.
-
-“Nils!” roared Moodie, “why Nils! confound the fellow, I believe he is
-asleep.”
-
-And so, sure enough, he was, with his head on the rudder-case, as fast as
-any one of the seven sleepers of Ephesus; and poor Nils was by no means
-singular in this respect—passengers were asleep, attendants were asleep,
-dogs were asleep, Jacob was asleep and snoring, the winds were asleep,
-everything was asleep but the sails, and they were waving to and fro with
-the knittles pattering against their surfaces, and shaking the night dew
-on the deck like rain, while over all, like an eider-down coverlet, had
-sunk on them all a steaming white fog, so thick that the sharpest eyes
-could not see the little burgee at the mast-head, or the out-haul block
-at the bowsprit end. It was not dark, it never is in summer, but no one
-could tell whether the sun had risen or not.
-
-“Here’s a go!” said the Captain.
-
-“Faith! I wish it was a go,” said the Parson, putting his head out of the
-cabin door; “it seems to me just the reverse.”
-
-Moodie, whose clever plan seemed to promise anything but success, was as
-sulky as Nils had been overnight, and rated the poor fellow soundly for
-going to sleep.
-
-Nils represented, not altogether unreasonably, that the wind had gone to
-sleep first.
-
-“What is to be done now?” said Moodie, breaking off a discontented and
-reflective whistle, the last notes of which had been singularly out of
-tune; “I cannot send this sleepy old fool to Leckö, or anywhere else, for
-I do not know where Leckö is, or where we are, or anything about it in
-this fog; who was to have thought of this?”
-
-“Never mind,” said the Parson—
-
- “The wisest schemes of mice and men
- Gang aft ajee;”—
-
-“I suppose this fog will clear off some time or other, and we are well
-provisioned, at all events.”
-
-“Yes,” said Moodie, “but we have sent on a forebud, and we shall have to
-pay for the horses all the way up.”
-
-“Well, that is a bad job,” said the Parson, “as far as it goes; but the
-worst that can come of it is to pay double,—once for the failure, and
-once for the real journey.”
-
-“No, that is not the worst, by any means; we have not only lost our
-money, but our forebud; we shall be kept waiting for an hour or two at
-every station, and shall most probably arrive when the fun is over. At
-such out-of-the-way places there is not a chance of holl-horses, that is
-to say, horses which the post-master keeps himself on speculation, and we
-shall have to send to the farms, whose turn it is to furnish them. I have
-been kept waiting that way for four hours at a single station.”
-
-Here Nils, who had been up to the mast-head to see if he could make out
-anything (for these fogs very often lie on the surface, not a dozen
-feet thick, looking from above like so much cotton wool in a box, while
-the sun is shining brightly above them), slid down the back-stay, and
-declared he could feel a light air aloft on the starboard beam; “his
-cheek felt quite cold,” he said, “though the heavy main-sail, dripping
-with dew, did not acknowledge the breeze at all.”
-
-“How is her head; why, confound you, you have forgotten the compass” (not
-at all an unlikely piece of forgetfulness in a river yacht.) This was
-soon remedied, for the Parson put his own little pocket affair on the
-deck, which, as it was a calm, did quite as well as her own.
-
-She was looking a little southward of east, having probably turned round
-and round a dozen times during the night.
-
-“That would do, the wind was southerly then; but where were they?”
-
-The day was now getting bright, and the fog was looking like a silver
-veil; the tiresome pattering of the knittles had ceased, or was renewed
-only at intervals; she was evidently gliding through the water,—but
-which way were they to steer? Amal certainly must be somewhere to the
-northward, but within six or eight points it was impossible to tell
-where after such a sleepy watch as had been kept during the past night.
-Reluctantly, Moodie brought her to the wind, and hauled his foresheet to
-windward.
-
-But the breeze increased, and the fog began to lift now and then; it
-could be seen under, as it were, and though just as thick about the
-mast-head as ever, a hundred yards or so of the surface could be seen
-plainly on either side.
-
-Nils rubbed his hands at this infallible sign of the rising of the fog,
-and Moodie, somewhat easier in his mind, ordered coffee.
-
-“There’s land on the port-beam,” said the Captain, during one of these
-lifts. “I am sure I saw land, whatever it is.”
-
-“There ought to be no land there,” said Moodie; for, lying as she did
-now, close to the wind, she had brought the east, that is to say, the
-great expanse of the lake, to her port-side, and was looking exactly on
-the opposite direction to her course; “get a cast of the lead, and keep a
-bright look out for rocks.”
-
-Just then the curtain of the fog rose in earnest, and disclosed a cluster
-of rocks and islets, among which they had got themselves completely
-entangled. “Why, what is this?—it is! no, it can’t be! yet it is—”
-
-“It is Lurön,” said Nils.
-
-“Lurön,” said Moodie, “why, that is miles to the eastward of our course!
-Where have you been steering to during the night?”
-
-“You told me to ‘keep her as she goes,’ and so I did.”
-
-And so he had; the fault lay with Moodie himself, who from the first
-starting had steered two points to the eastward of his course; the fog
-and the current—for the Wener is big enough for current—had done the rest.
-
-It did not however signify, the breeze blew merrily and promised to
-stand; the fog now lay in light fleecy clouds far above their heads;
-the sun, not far from the horizon, began to smile upon them and to
-chase away the dangers of the night, and with them the ill-humour they
-had engendered; the fore-sheet was let draw, and as she gathered way
-she tacked, fell off on the port-tack, and with a jolly breeze on her
-quarter, buzzed away through the water to the northwest.
-
-Soon a line of trees appeared on the horizon, as if they were dancing
-in the air, or floating in the water; then the trunks began to form and
-unite with something below them; then the line of land, real firm land,
-began to manifest itself; then red, and white, and black, and brown, and
-striped cottages began to show out; and before ten the anchor was let go
-before the little town of Amal.
-
-The horses were still awaiting them, for the allotted three hours, during
-which they are bound to remain, had not yet elapsed and they escaped on
-payment of the regulated fine for being after time. The men were sent
-on immediately in the waggon which Moodie had spoken of, and which he
-had written to his friend the farmer to borrow, sending his note by the
-forebud. In half-an-hour the carioles were harnessed, and as they plunged
-into the forests at the back of Amal, the last thing they saw was the
-pretty cutter, close hauled, lying as near to her course to Wenersborg as
-the wind would let her look.
-
-The trees of Western Carlstadtlan, which they were now traversing, are
-said to be the finest in Sweden; this is due partly to the depth and
-goodness of the soil—a circumstance which will eventually secure their
-destruction, by offering a temptation to convert the fjeld into arable
-land; that they stood, even yet, was principally on account of the
-absence of any great rivers, which afford the only means of conveying
-timber to the coast. The land is quite as good on the banks of the Klara
-and Swedish Glommen, the latter of which runs into the lake a few miles
-eastward of Amal, but there is a sensible difference in the growth of the
-timber. There was fir, no doubt, in plenty—there is no Swedish forest
-without fir,—but there were also huge beech trees, and a sprinkling of
-not very happy-looking oak, that put one in mind of the English in India:
-they lived in the country, but they did not enjoy it.
-
-The whole country looked like an enormous park—rather too thickly
-planted, to be sure,—one kept looking, at every turn of the road, for
-the mansion; and the road, too, though not one of very great traffic,
-was very good, winding along with a great border of short turf on each
-side, comparatively level on the whole, but occasionally interrupted
-by a descent so sharp that it seemed as if the carioles were going to
-cut a summerset over the horses’ ears,—more particularly as the horses
-invariably chose those portions of the road for going as hard as they
-could lay legs to ground, a peculiarity sufficiently trying to the
-nerves; and as those portions of the road were invariably cut to pieces
-by the rush of the water, and were full of rocks besides, sufficiently
-trying to the bodily feelings.
-
-On the opposite sides of these ravines, the horses would creep at the
-rate of about a mile an hour, the passenger being so absolutely expected
-to walk up them, that many of the horses came to a dead halt at the
-bottom, and refused to proceed at all till disencumbered of their weight.
-
-“It is not without reason,” said Birger, as they sat on the roadside, at
-the top of one of these descents, watching the slow progress of their
-carioles, under the care of their respective schutzebonder—little boys
-or girls, as the case may be, who sit on the foot-boards, and bring the
-horses back after they have done their stage;—“it is not without reason
-that the ancient Swedes have invented the legend that in certain places
-the elves and the trees are identical; that these forest elves are
-intensely patriotic, and that in times of invasion they assemble their
-bands and fight by the side of their human countrymen, in defence of
-their common country. Many of the trees in Carlstadtlan, as well as in
-other places, are trees only by day, but are armed soldiers by night.
-Of course the idea is that the forests fight for the country in case
-of invasion, and add to the numbers of its defenders; and so they do.
-Russia might pour her thousands upon us, and sweep us off the face of the
-earth, by mere force of numbers, in an open field; but how would she ever
-force her passage through a forest like this, filled with a few thousand
-riflemen? The trees would fight for us even by day; but by night our
-numbers, counting the elves, would be irresistible.
-
-“The slight variety that there is in the legend in Denmark, bears this
-out there also; where the deep Sound and fjords intersect the kingdom,
-the stony promontories are its best defence, and the elf kings are called
-Klintekonger, or Promontory Kings. There are several stories about their
-parading their elf soldiers, with fife and drum, on the breaking out of
-a war, and driving over the sea, with snorting horses, in clouds and
-blackness, from one promontory to another. The elf king of Bornholm will
-not allow any earthly prince to sleep more than three nights within his
-dominions, nor will King Tolv permit any king besides himself to pass the
-bridge of Skjelskör. This is all part of the same allegory; the elves are
-the spirits of the woods, and the Grims of the cataracts, and the Haaf
-manner of the sea, and the Strömkarls of the rivers. They all bear the
-same character; they are capricious as the elements are over which they
-preside, and often injure most those who are most accustomed to them, but
-in case of an invasion become rivers, and lakes, and fjords, and forests,
-and unite to repel the invader. Bother that little schutzebonde of mine;
-I wish she were a boy, that I might whip her instead of the horse;” and
-Birger strode down the hill to infuse fresh spirit into the post-horse
-and post-girl.
-
-Thus they travelled on, at the rate of five or six miles an hour on the
-average, bowling along through the forest, but interrupted, whenever
-they came near cultivation, by timber fences and swing gates across the
-road, living mostly on their own provisions, with the help of a little
-gröd which they got from the post-houses, sleeping when they would in the
-haylofts, sometimes in the open air, and occasionally on peculiarly dirty
-sheepskins in the post-houses. Oh those sheepskins—
-
- “Ye gentlemen of England,
- Who live at home at ease,
- How little do you think upon
- The dangers of the fleas!”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXI.
-
-THE MEET.
-
- “A various scene the clansmen made—
- Some sate, some stood, some slowly strayed,—
- But most, with mantles folded round,
- Were couched to rest upon the ground—
- Scarce to be known by curious eye
- From the deep heather where they lie;
- But when, advancing through the gloom,
- They saw their chieftain’s eagle plume,
- Their shout of welcome, shrill and wide,
- Shook the steep mountain’s steady side,—
- Thrice it arose, and lake and fell
- Three times returned the martial yell.
- It died upon Rochastle’s plain,
- And silence claimed her evening reign.”
-
- _Lady of the Lake._
-
-
-Evening had already begun to close in, and the dark branches of the
-firs, which for the last five or six miles had canopied the road, were
-beginning to grow darker still, when the carioles emerged from the great
-forest into a green park-like glade, studded with feathering clumps of
-birch and spruce; and rattled up to the door of the little inn that stood
-on the borders of it, which was the place appointed for the meet.
-
-The inn, which, after all, was little better than a post-house, was
-evidently not large enough to contain a tenth part of the crowd collected
-in front of it; nor did the half dozen wooden houses, which formed the
-village, afford much more extensive accommodation.
-
-Few, however, of those there assembled seemed to care much about the
-matter; the evening was warm, the sky was clear, and the stars were
-beginning to twinkle merrily through the calm blue sky; the good green
-wood was shelter enough for the hardy peasants and their equally hardy
-landlords, and would have been shelter enough though the ground had been
-white with snow.
-
-Fires were beginning to rise here and there, bringing into view the
-gipsy-like groups collected round them, as they sat, stood, or lay at
-full-length upon the turf—some busied about the little tin kettles,
-in which they were mixing their rye gröd, some bringing in fuel,
-some returning from the inn and the temporary stalls that had been
-established round it for the sale of bread, cheese, butter, brandy,
-and other necessaries; though most of the party had brought good store
-of provision in their own bags. Some—and they mostly the elders of the
-parish—were quietly smoking their pipes, and discussing the events of
-former skals, and prophesying good or bad of the present one, according
-as their dispositions were sanguine or the reverse; but all were talking,
-laughing, hand-shaking, imparting or listening to little pieces of
-domestic news, or parish scandal—for, in the forest parishes, (and in
-Sweden most parishes are of that character), a skal brings together men
-who have but few other opportunities of meeting.
-
-A few old stagers, indeed, were trying to get one good night’s sleep, in
-order to prepare themselves for the fatigues of which the morrow was but
-the beginning, and were stretching themselves on the turf, with their
-feet towards their fires; but new arrivals were continually rousing them
-up, and some fresh Calle Jonsen, or Swen Larssen, or Nils Ericsen, would
-be continually dropping in with fresh inquiries, fresh news, and fresh
-greetings.
-
-From the windows of the inn, which were wide open, a broad, bright
-glare of light was streaming across the glade, obscured now and then by
-the shadow of some great head and shoulders—for the room was full of
-people,—but strong enough, notwithstanding, to light up the boughs of the
-old lime trees that shaded the porch, glittering among their soft green
-leaves, as if they really were what the Swedes suppose them to be, the
-roosting places of the Spirits of Light.
-
-This was evidently the head quarters of the skal, where the generals
-and field officers were holding high council, receiving information,
-arranging plans, and issuing orders; and Birger, springing from his
-cariole and throwing the reins of his horse to his schutzebond, or
-post-boy, and committing, with utter recklessness of consequences, the
-whole department of quartermaster-general, and commissary-general to
-boot, into the hands of Jacob, rushed into the room, followed by his
-three friends.
-
-This opportune reinforcement was greeted with shouts of welcome: Birger
-himself was an old friend of the Ofwer Jagmästere, and had, before this,
-signalized himself as a hunter. Englishmen are invariably popular both in
-Norway and Sweden; and besides, the value of English rifles, and English
-sportsmen to carry them, was universally acknowledged. Moodie, however,
-was the great prize; he had been now, for four years in the country,
-and had been there quite long enough to be known and appreciated as the
-best shot and the most sagacious and inventive leader in the province.
-With a natural turn for the chase in all its varieties, he had thrown
-himself, heart and soul, into the business of bear hunting, had studied
-it theoretically and had worked out his theories practically, till he was
-universally acknowledged to be a fair match for the “gentleman in the
-fur cloak, who has the wisdom of ten and the strength of twenty,” as the
-Swedes periphrastically term their great enemy, the bear.
-
-He had remained in the porch for a minute or two, giving some directions
-to his followers, so that the greetings, and introductions, and first
-inquiries had a little subsided when he entered; but the moment his
-well-known green cap was seen in the doorway, there arose such a shout of
-welcome, that it made the flitches of bacon and strings of onions tremble
-from the rafters.
-
-“Modige! Modige!”[49] for so they had naturalized his name into a word
-which, in their language, signifies courageous.
-
-The well-known cry was caught up among the parties out of doors, and
-echoed back again from tree to tree, while the glare of the camp-fires
-shewed dark shadows of insane figures, waving arms and hats, aye, and
-handkerchiefs, too, for every woman who can possibly slip away from home,
-turns out on a skal.
-
-“Modige! Modige!” again came thundering and screaming back in all sorts
-of voice, old and young, male and female; now dying away, then bursting
-forth, as some distant post took it up again.
-
-“Upon my word,” said the Ofwer Jagmästere Bjornstjerna, speaking in
-French, out of compliment to the strangers—for this language, though
-utterly despised in Norway, is pretty generally spoken among the Swedish
-aristocracy; “upon my word, the people have decided the matter for us;
-I wanted some one to take charge of the hållet, and was going to offer
-you the command the moment I saw you, but the people seem to have taken
-the matter into their own hands now; you cannot possibly refuse, you are
-elected by acclamation.”
-
-“I am delighted to be of any use,” said Moodie,—in fact, he did look
-delighted in good earnest,—“and will do my best; but you are aware that I
-am not very familiar with the ground here.”
-
-“Never mind that,” said Bjornstjerna; “we will soon find some one to be
-your quartermaster-general; what we want is, a man that the people look
-up to, who knows his business, and is accustomed to command.”
-
-“How many shall I have under me in the hållet?”
-
-“We cannot spare you above five hundred,” said Bjornstjerna; “but the
-ground is easy enough, at least so far as the hållet is concerned. See
-here,” and he produced a rough but well-executed military sketch of the
-ground, which he had surveyed and mapped that morning; “this plain is the
-country we mean to drive,—there is about three miles of it in length,
-that is to say,” he added, parenthetically, nodding to the Englishmen,
-“what you would call in your country, one or two-and-twenty. On the
-west, as you see, it is bounded by the river which I have marked here
-in blue; this, in its course, expands into these two lakes, and just
-by the water-side the country is comparatively open, with a few farm
-houses and hamlets about it; the forest, however, closes it all round,
-getting thicker as you approach the mountains. On the east is this range
-of heights which, as luck will have it, I find are scarped by nature
-into cliffs, so that nothing but a bird can get up them—except at these
-passes, which I have marked on the map with a cross. These are mostly
-the dry or half-dry beds of torrents, and by the side of almost all
-of them there is a passage into the upper fjeld, practicable for men,
-and, consequently, for beasts also, when they are frightened. At this
-point, where we intend stationing our dref, the range of hills is about
-six of your miles distant from the line of the river, but it gradually
-approaches it; and at this point, where there are some falls and rapids,
-the distance is very trifling—not above a thousand eller—somewhere about
-half an English mile; and, besides, there is a spur of rock here which
-causes the falls of the river, and upon this the forest is very thin and
-open. Here I propose placing you with the hållet. You will establish
-yourself on the reverse slope of the spur, so that our shot will pass
-over your heads; you will then only have to clear away sufficient of the
-under-stuff from the front of your position to give you a fair shot at
-anything that attempts to cross.
-
-“About a thousand or fifteen hundred eller in front of your position, and
-parallel to it, runs a cow-track to the upper säters, which, upon the
-whole, is pretty open, and upon which you may as well set a hundred or
-two of your men, to improve to-morrow into a shooting line. Here we shall
-take our stand after we have driven the country. There is a thickish bit
-between this path and your position; the game will not object to enter
-it, and if they do, we ought to get every one of them, for to the left
-the rock is absolutely perpendicular, and on the right the rapids are
-such that nothing can cross them.”
-
-“You have no skal-plats?” said Moodie.
-
-“Why this is a skal-plats,” said Bjornstjerna, “rather a large one, to be
-sure; but we shall not run much risk of getting our men shot in driving
-it, because you will be on the reverse slope; and, by the way, you must
-be very particular in cautioning all your skalfogdar to keep their men
-from showing themselves on the crest of the hill. I did at one time think
-of making a skal-plats here, on the banks of this lower lake, and driving
-from both ends at the same time; but the ground is not favourable; a
-good deal of it is cleared, and every bear will make for the roots of
-the mountains, where the under-stuff is thickest; they cannot get up the
-perpendicular cliffs, to be sure, but we should have them creeping up a
-little way by the branches, and then stealing back as soon as the dref
-has passed the place,—upon the whole, though, I think my present plan is
-the best.”
-
-“I really think it is,” said Moodie, “as far as I can judge from seeing
-it on paper; but you seem to have a pretty large country to drive, not
-less than twenty miles English in length. What number do you muster?”
-
-“Not above fifteen hundred or two thousand at the most,” said
-Bjornstjerna, “though I have called out five parishes; but look at the
-place, it seems cut out for a skal,—half-a-dozen boats will guard the
-river, which is navigable in its whole length till you come to the rapids
-which flank your position, and not a bear will go near the houses, as
-you know, or face the open ground, if he can possibly help it,—so much
-for our right flank; while for the other, a small picket at each of the
-water-courses, will be quite sufficient to guard them till the dref
-has passed, and then the picket can either strengthen the other guards
-farther on, or reinforce our line, or join you at the hållet, according
-as they are wanted. Then, since the cliffs keep approaching the river, in
-proportion as we drive forward so our line will be strengthened by the
-men closing on each other, till, in the end, when the beasts begin to
-break out, we shall be able to send you a reinforcement of two or three
-hundred men, for we shall have more than we want.”
-
-“That will do,” said Moodie; “we shall have a glorious skal, I see, and I
-give you great credit for making the most of your men.”
-
-“The truth is, I have quite as many men as I want—I have never been at a
-loss for them; what I have been at a loss for, hitherto, is officers,
-for the Indelta has been unexpectedly summoned to Stockholm, and with
-them I have lost almost every man who knows how to command.”
-
-“Why not wait till they come back?” said Birger; “they never keep the
-Indelta out for more than three weeks, and I am sure the ‘Fur-clothed
-Disturbers’ would wait for you:” (no Swede ever mentions the bear’s name,
-if he can possibly help it).
-
-“Yes,” said Bjornstjerna, “but after that the militia is to be called
-out, and if I get my officers I should lose my men—aye, and two-thirds of
-the women, too. How many women do you think would turn out, if you took
-away all the men between the ages of twenty and twenty-five? And let me
-tell you that the women, though the law does not allow us to press them
-into the service, are just as useful as the men,—and in the dref, where
-all you want is to drive the game forward, a great deal more so, for they
-talk twice as much, and their screams, and squalls, and laughter, are
-heard as far again as the men’s shouts. O, by the Thousand! I had rather
-lose my men than my women. But you gentlemen are a perfect Godsend; I
-shall do very well for officers now. Herr Modige is kind enough to take
-the hållet, and, whether you like it or no, Master Lieutenant, you will
-have the charge of that skal-arm which furnishes the pickets.”
-
-“Well, I suppose I must obey my superior officer; I wish they treated us
-Lieutenants of the Guards as well as they do those of England, and then I
-should be Captain as well as you—commanding you, perhaps, if I happened
-to be senior.”
-
-“Would you, my boy? I would have you to know that I rank a Colonel now,—I
-write ‘Hof’ before my name.”
-
-“Upon my soul, old fellow, I congratulate you; I do not know any one who
-deserves it better.”
-
-“No more do I,” said Bjornstjerna, “and I must say that it is not often
-that the Förste Hof Jagmästere shows such a specimen of discrimination.
-However, to business. Along the left flank of the dref, you will see
-that in the course of our beat there are some fifteen or twenty places
-where game can escape by climbing up the water courses. At each of these
-you will post a picket, strong or weak, according to the nature of the
-ground. Herr Länsman, can you furnish the Lieutenant with a man who knows
-the country?”
-
-The Länsman, or tax-gatherer, who in these remote districts acts as
-police officer, and is, in fact, the sole representative of majesty,
-offered his own services in that capacity.
-
-“Very good,” said the Ofwer Jagmästere, “then you will point out the
-particulars; but, to help you, I have marked all the more practicable
-passages with red crosses. Here, however, is your principal danger—in
-fact, it is that which made me hesitate about establishing the hållet
-where it is. You see where this cow-path leads to the hills—the path, I
-mean, which I have just pointed out to Herr Modige as the place where I
-wish him to arrange the shooting line; carry your eye onward to where it
-ascends the hills; that is an easy pass, such as you can ride up, and it
-is so close to the hållet that any beast that turns at the line, would
-naturally dash at the opening. Here you must post a very strong force.”
-
-“I cannot do better than put my English friends there,” said Birger, who
-saw at a glance that this was the very crack post of the whole line; “I
-will venture to say that their rifles will not allow anything to pass
-alive through that opening, from an elk to a rabbit.”
-
-“Hush, not a word about elks,” said Bjornstjerna; “neither they nor stags
-must be touched—the new law is very strict about that.”
-
-“It is very difficult to tell one beast from another, in the thick
-juniper,” said Birger; “I never could myself.”
-
-The Ofwer Jagmästere laughed, but put on an official frown.
-
-“Do you know, Birger,” said the Parson, “I should like to be your
-aide-de-camp better than to hold any definite post; I could carry your
-orders, you know.”
-
-“And deliver them in English or French,” said Birger; “I shall have a
-very effective aide-de-camp indeed. However, if you like it, I will give
-you the post, and I think you are right; you will see more in that way
-than in any other, and you can reinforce the post of danger whenever you
-are tired. Indeed, you may as well consider it your home during the
-skal. Would the Captain, then, take charge of that point?”
-
-The Captain was quite willing, and promised to give a good account of it.
-
-“Well, then,” said Birger, “I shall not want Piersen to-morrow, so you
-may have him, and your own man Tom, and Jacob for cook. The Parson
-will probably take Torkel, but I dare say the Länsman can find you an
-intelligent Swede, who knows the ground and can understand a few words
-of English, and three or four fellows for sentries; that will be quite
-enough for you, for the Parson and Torkel will join you, and be under
-your orders before there is anything serious.”
-
-Here the Ofwer Jagmästere spoke a few words in Swedish to Birger, who
-laughed and replied—“No, no, certainly not; I am confident he would
-consider it an honour of no small magnitude to bear a commission in our
-service. The fact is,” continued he, addressing the Captain, “everything
-in these skaller is arranged according to military discipline, and
-everyone here has military rank. And as you have to command a picket, you
-would not object to hold a temporary commission, not quite equal to your
-own in the English service.”
-
-“Object!” said the Captain, “O, no—delighted, of course!”
-
-“Then give me your cap,” said Birger. “Hand me over that chalk,
-Bjornstjerna;” and he wrote upon its peak the mystic letters, “S.F.,”
-being the initials of Skal Fogde; and accordingly the Captain took rank
-as full sergeant in the Swedish army.
-
-“Now, then,” said the Jagmästere, “as I have arranged matters so
-satisfactorily here, I will start at once for Lysvik, where I have
-ordered the dref to assemble. I shall have enough to do to-morrow
-morning, as you may imagine,—what with numbering the men, and appointing
-their skalfogdar, and seeing them at their stations, the commander
-has no easy life of it. As for you, Moodie, I need not tell you your
-business—you know it as well as I do myself,—but begin appointing your
-skalfogdar the first thing to-morrow. You need not wait for your full
-complement of men, they will drop in in the course of the day; but
-as your best men are sure to be the first, appoint at once; at twelve
-precisely write the numbers in their hats, as they stand, and we will
-fine all that come later than that. That, Mr. Länsman, must be your
-business; but first of all look out for Lieutenant Birger fifty of your
-best men. That,” turning to Moodie, “will leave you nearly five hundred,
-which is quite as much as you can want, as the boats will be manned from
-my party. You, Birger, will march at daybreak, for I must have every
-picket posted by twelve, at which time we move forward with the dref.
-Now, Lönner, my horse, as quick as you please, for we have seven quarters
-to go before we sleep.”
-
-The Ofwer Jagmästere might almost be said to “exit speaking,” for he
-continued his speech into the porch, and the last words were lost in the
-canter of his little hog-maned pony, as he floundered off, followed by
-Lönner and a couple of orderlies, together with the Länsmen of the two
-other parishes, who had met him by appointment at Ostmarkand, and now
-formed his personal staff.
-
-Moodie, who was now in command, hesitated for a moment whether he
-should exercise it by clearing the inn for the sleeping accommodation
-of himself and friends, but, on turning the matter over in his mind,
-the interior looked so dirty and stuffy, and was withal so redolent of
-tobacco, brandy, and aniseed, while the exterior was so fresh and green,
-and the moon was shining down so softly, and the air was so still, and
-the camp fires so bright and inviting, that, with universal consent and
-approbation, he adjourned the divisional head-quarters to a spreading
-fir-tree, whose branches were illuminated by a fire worthy of a General;
-while the provident Jacob, who had tilted the carioles on end, to form
-a sort of screen, spread out before them the contents of his ambulatory
-larder.
-
-This was soon discussed, and then a quiet pipe, a moderate horn of brandy
-and water, a hopeful good night, a roll in their cloaks, and before their
-heads were well on their knapsacks, the whole four were in the fairy land
-of sleep and forgetfulness.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXII.
-
-THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE SKAL.
-
- “When shaws beene sheene and shrads full fayre,
- And leaves both large and long,
- ’Tis merry walking in the fayre forest,
- To hear the small birde’s song.”
-
- _Robin Hood._
-
- “These mounds I yet may clamber,
- And look on the rocks so grey,—
- On these huge stones on the summits
- I can lie, as oft I lay.
-
- “And if it soughs in the forest,
- In the beechwood’s native land,—
- And if the wave roars deeply,
- I nod to sea and strand.
-
- “O, never my heart forgetteth
- The cairn, the wood, and the strand,—
- For my heart is only at home in
- The warrior’s fatherland.”
-
- _Holger Danske-Ingemann._
-
-
-The sun had not yet lighted up the spires of the fir-trees, when a buzz
-of voices and a shuffling of feet broke the slumbers of the head-quarters
-party. Länsman Matthiesen, true to his word, had not slept before he
-had picked out his fifty mountaineers, chalking their hats at the back
-with the letters “H.F.,” standing for hög fjeld, or the high forest,
-indicating the position they were to occupy.
-
-While Birger was still rubbing his eyes and kicking up Jacob to boil
-the morning’s coffee, Matthiesen was numbering them from 1 to 50, with
-chalk, in the front of their hats, and selecting their skalfogdar, who
-were marked, as the Captain had been on the preceding evening, with the
-letters “S.F.” It is usual to appoint a skalfogde to every ten men; but,
-as these were to be divided into small parties, it was thought expedient
-to appoint one to every five, it being understood that, whenever any of
-these parties were united, the skalfogde whose number was lowest should
-reckon as senior, and command the whole.
-
-Fire-arms are not very plentiful in any part of Sweden, but Matthiesen
-had so picked his men, that about one-fifth of them had something of the
-sort,—most of these weapons looking very much more formidable to the
-sportsmen who carried them than to the game at which they were pointed.
-The rest were armed with poles, many of which had spikes at the end.
-Here and there was an old sword or a pistol that had seen service in the
-Thirty years’ War; but most of the men carried very efficient axes,—an
-excellent weapon against a tree, and not a bad one with a bear in close
-conflict, if such a thing ever does take place in a skal; but the fact
-is, the beasts on these occasions are so completely cowed, that they
-rarely, if ever, show fight.
-
-The men had been searched that morning, and all their brandy taken from
-them, and the rest of their provisions examined, to see if there was
-enough to last out the number of days for which they had been summoned.
-But, before starting, Birger served out to each a horn of hot coffee from
-Jacob’s soup kettle, with a double allowance of sugar in it; for if there
-is anything that comes near to brandy in the estimation of a Swede, it is
-sugar, which he eats and drinks whenever he can get it, like a very child.
-
-Birger then, having first taken a careful survey of the whole plan of
-the skal, a copy of which Matthiesen had placed in his hand, summoned
-the Parson and Torkel, and, placing himself at the head of his party,
-gave the word to march. This was obeyed in a very military fashion,—for
-every Swede is or has been a militia-man, and is very proud of his
-soldiering,—and the party was soon lost among the green shades of the
-forest.
-
-Moodie watched them very composedly, and then quietly set himself down
-to breakfast, not a little to the discomposure of the Captain, who, if
-he had had his will, would have been walking sentry on his post with
-his rifle in his hand, looking out fiercely for the bears,—a proceeding
-which, as the dref or driving party was not to move till noon, and then
-would be twenty miles from the scene of action, evinced, to say the least
-of it, more zeal than discretion.
-
-The Captain need not, however, have disquieted himself, for the
-preparations all that time were going steadily forward. Moodie,
-having selected six of the most experienced hunters as Adjutanter
-or lieutenants, left them to nominate and chalk off the fifty
-Skalfogdar which his party required, and to distribute the men into
-tens in such a way that every part of the line should be equally
-provided with fire-arms. The farmer who owned the land had offered
-his services as personal attendant, or what the Jagmästere had called
-Quartermaster-General; and Moodie, quite aware that the authorities of
-the place, who knew the characters and capabilities of the men, would
-set in order these details much better than he could, permitted them
-to manage things their own way, and interfered but little with their
-arrangements.
-
-It was not before ten that everything was put into proper order, and the
-little flags prepared which were to mark out the ground; but then Moodie
-readily enough got his men into marching order, and proceeded to take up
-the position. This was distant about four miles (English) from the place
-of meeting; the road to it leading down the glade, and at right angles to
-the direction taken by Birger and his party that morning.
-
-If Moodie had seemed apathetic and dilatory while others were capable of
-doing the work, there was no want of energy in him when the party had
-arrived at the ground. His orders were given with that distinctness and
-decision which evinces an intimate acquaintance with the business in
-hand, and ensures the prompt obedience of all engaged in it.
-
-Two of the Adjutanter, with three men from each skalfogde’s command were
-detached to establish the line which the hållet was finally to occupy,
-and to mark out with little flags of white calico, on which were painted
-their numbers, the post of each subdivision. In the meanwhile the main
-strength of his party were engaged in preparing the mountain road which
-the Jagmästere had pointed out for what is termed the shooting line,—that
-is to say, the line on which the dref or driving division was finally to
-halt, having thus enclosed the game in the patch of wood between it and
-the hållet, which is called the skalplats.
-
-The shooting line was formed, by cutting down the junipers and lower
-branches of the trees for about twenty yards on each side of a mountain
-road which ran parallel to the front of the position; but the great
-labour was to remove everything that had been cut, for, had such evident
-traces of man’s work been left, not one single head of game would have
-ventured across the clearing. For this reason, also, Moodie began his
-work in this place, leaving the clearing of his own line for future
-operations, in order that he might give time for the scent to clear
-away,—and therefore it is, that when the shooting line is once formed, no
-one is ever permitted to cross till the dref arrives, driving the game
-before them.
-
-The peculiar kind of the ground had, in this instance, caused the
-skalplats to be made very much larger than is usual; in fact, it was
-nearly half a mile deep, and very much more than half a mile in front
-width—and from this it would be difficult to dislodge game which had been
-thoroughly frightened. But Moodie’s English education had suggested a
-remedy: besides the main shooting line, the axe-men were instructed to
-subdivide the skalplats by parallel “rides,” as they are called in an
-English cover, running from front to rear, so that a marksman placed at
-the end of any of these would have a fair shot, as the game moved from
-one block of forest to another.
-
-All this, however, was a work of time as well as labour, and though
-four hundred men were employed about it, and though they worked as men
-work who combine pleasure with duty, the day was far advanced, and the
-skal had begun for some hours before Moodie took his final survey, and,
-dispatching the Captain and his party to their post in the mountains,
-withdrew his workmen to their own position on the reverse slope of the
-spur. Having posted his sentries on the crest of the hill, he dismissed
-the remainder to procure their suppers, and to make themselves as
-comfortable as was consistent with extreme watchfulness.
-
-Long before any serious impression had been made by Moodie, on the
-shooting line, Birger and the remains of his party had reached his
-farthest post, having taken his route along the crest of the heights.
-Calculating his time with military precision, he had visited the heads of
-all the different passes, stationing at each a picket, the strength of
-which was in proportion to its ascertained importance, or blocking it up
-with an abattis of trees—a very easy thing to do, for the bear, when his
-suspicions are fairly roused, turns readily at the slightest appearance
-of a trap. And now, as the minute hand of his watch indicated twelve, a
-fact which he took care to point out to the Parson, Matthiesen was in
-the act of displaying from the branch of a dead fir tree which overhung
-the precipice, the long fluttering slip of white calico, which not only
-marked out the position of the pass to those below, but was the agreed
-signal that it was occupied.
-
-The day was bright and hot, as a northern summer’s day generally is, and
-within the cover of the woods not a breath of wind had been felt; but on
-the exposed cliff, where they then stood, or rather lay—for the recumbent
-was decidedly the favourite position;—a light and refreshing air was just
-creeping up the sides of the cliffs, stirring the feathery leaves of the
-birches, but leaving the heavier foliage at rest.
-
-It was a joyous scene, as the eye traversed the tops of the great forest
-stretched out like a map below, and traced the different colours of the
-foliage—here was a thick, close array of firs, forming a solid column, of
-miles in extent—there were the serried ranks of the spiry spruce,—here,
-again, where the axe had been at work selecting the best trees and
-leaving the rest to succeed as chance had planted, there was a broad,
-park-like expanse full of juniper underwood, bordered, it may be, by a
-belt of birch, the consequences of some forgotten fire, or a patch of
-white poplars, indicating a marshy bit, or a dozen or so of restless
-aspens, balancing their leaves when all around was still;—here, again,
-was a svedgefall, as they term the places where the wind gets under the
-branches of the firs, and levels acres of them together. Sometimes these
-form parks of exceeding beauty, as the young trees grow up sparsely;
-but here and there, where they are too small to be worth removing, they
-lie, entangled with weeds and undergrowth, a mass of rottenness and a
-stronghold of Bruin, out of which it will sometimes take hours to drive
-him.
-
-Here and there, too, was a sœter, or, as we are now in Sweden, a
-satterval, or mountain pasture farm, with its low roof of pine-branches
-and its meadow of rough hay, which generally stood in large cocks, ready
-to be removed as soon as the snow should form a road; round most of
-these, groups of cattle might be seen; but there was no smoke from their
-chimneys, for every human being was at the skal.
-
-Far in the distance, indeed too far to be seen, except where the sun
-lighted up its waters and returned a dazzling reflection, was the river,
-already guarded by its fleet of boats, though these were entirely
-invisible from the cliffs.
-
-To the southward, the range of heights sank gradually into the plain,
-which here was traversed by the main road, cutting both the ridge and the
-river at right angles.
-
-Beyond this, all was one black, dreary, desolate wilderness, without a
-shrub, or a bush, or a blade of grass; nothing but bare, grey, ghost-like
-trunks of dead trees, stretching forth their charred and blackened
-branches, and looking as if a curse was resting on them. Three years ago
-that blackened track had been a flourishing pine forest, but the fire
-had passed over it, and it was gone. According to a generally received
-Swedish superstition, though the birch might succeed it, no pine could
-grow there again for ever: the burnt tree had been cursed in itself and
-in its seed.
-
-This superstition is actually borne out by fact: cut a pine-forest, and
-a pine-forest succeeds it; burn a pine-forest, and the succeeding trees,
-when they do again clothe the ground, are invariably birch. In reality,
-this is not so strange as it seems at first sight; the fir is the natural
-seed of the country, and the young fir is the hardiest tree,—wherever
-that tree will grow no other can compete with it; but its seed is heavy,
-and cannot fall far from the parent tree, when once vegetation is
-destroyed,—the fir-seed can never travel into the wasted land; but the
-birch-seed flies in the wind, and its young seedlings are invariably the
-first green which succeeds a fire.
-
-This black wilderness was one cause among many which had induced the
-Jagmästere to select this particular spot for his skal; no game would
-willingly break through his line when they knew that miles of uncovered
-country must be traversed before they could again find shelter. He had,
-therefore, that morning marshalled his dref along the high road, by
-placing them in position there, and numbering their hats as they stood,
-from the centre to each flank; but, true to his word, no sooner had the
-white flag fluttered from Birger’s post, than his bugle sounded the
-advance along his whole line, and the skal was already begun.
-
-The Parson and Birger, whose work for that morning was done, were seated
-on the outer ridge, with their feet fairly overhanging the precipice,
-reconnoitring with their glasses the progress of the dref, as here and
-there the men emerged into a more open space, which the skalfogdar
-were taking advantage of, in order to reform or repair their line, and
-re-establish their communications with the parties right and left of them.
-
-Every now and then a sudden shout, followed by half-a-dozen shots,
-marking the place by a light puff of smoke, (Swedish powder makes plenty
-of that), would point the glasses to some particular spot,—but on no
-occasion was any game visible from above.
-
-According to law, all shouting is strictly forbidden in skals, and so is
-firing at small game, and so is the presence of women or boys, upon the
-express count that they are too noisy; but these laws seem to have been
-made for no other purpose except that the people might enjoy the pleasure
-of hunting and breaking the law at the same time, for no one ever thinks
-of keeping them; shouting is incessant, women are plentiful, and, as for
-shooting at small game, the best chance a cock-robin stands of his life
-consists in the very great probability of a Swedish piece missing fire,
-or a Swedish marksman missing his aim.
-
-And, indeed, it is universally admitted by the moderns that their
-forefathers were in error; that not only shouts and musketry are useful
-in keeping up the men’s pluck and pointing out to each other their
-whereabouts, but they are positively of advantage in driving the game.
-When the ring is once completed, either by artificial or natural means,
-and the game is fairly surrounded, it is far better that it should be
-aroused by distant shouts, and should be suffered to slink off quietly
-and unseen, approaching by degrees the hållet, where, after all, it must
-be brought up by the standing line, than that it should be surprised by
-the dref advancing in silence. A startled bear is just as likely to bolt
-backwards as forwards, and, if he does, the chances are that he gets off
-scot free. He must be an unlucky bear, indeed, who, at the earlier part
-of a skal, and before the men have closed in, charges the line and gets
-more than one shot at him; and a most particularly unlucky bear must
-he be if that shot takes effect, whereas it is just as likely to take
-effect on some Jan or Karl, who stands with his eyes and mouth open as
-the “Disturber” rushes by,—and thus affords, in his own person, the only
-chance of a sitting shot, which Swedes delight in;—indeed, this is almost
-the only way in which accidents do happen in skals; the bear very seldom
-revenges himself, but he now and then gets people to do it for him.
-
-The Parson sat reclining against a rock, very much at his ease, sometimes
-watching the progress of the skal, sometimes picking off the stalks from
-a quantity of ground-mulberries[50] which he had gathered during that
-morning’s march. Indeed, the Parson, in the course of that march, had
-succeeded in making a very pretty figure of himself: his knowledge of
-botany amounted simply to a desire of appropriating to himself every
-unusual flower he came across; so that by the end of the day his hat,
-which was of that description popularly known as a wide-awake, was
-generally surrounded by a garland fit for a May-queen.
-
-In the present instance, the front of his hat exhibited a purple plume
-of the “laf-reseda,” which perfumed the air around him with an odour
-like that of the night-scented stock. He had placed it there not so much
-for that or for its beauty, as because, like the ground-mulberry, it is
-never seen south of the latitude in which they then were—not even in the
-south of Sweden. Twining round the hat-band was a wreath of “Baldur’s
-brow,” a beautiful white flower, dedicated in heathen times to the
-god of Innocence, and still bearing his name, and retaining a portion
-of its ancient sanctity.[51] The lily of the valley, which in Sweden
-signifies much the same as it does in England, formed its appropriate
-companion; and so might the heart’s-ease, which fairly tinged the hill
-sides with blue and yellow, had it retained any equivalent to its English
-appellation; but in Sweden it is called “skart-blom,” and is appropriated
-to the Devil. It is the flower the witches decorate themselves with when
-they ride by night to the Satanic rendezvous, and dance infernal polkas
-in the wilds of Blaakulla.
-
-“See!” said Birger, “look at that white flag! there it is, glancing
-against the corner of those firs in the svedgefall; now you see another
-in a line with it,—that is the Ordningsman and his party; he marks the
-centre of the advancing line. Before they started, the Jagmästere will
-have given him his precise bearing from the centre of the hållet, and
-his business is to attend neither to the bears nor to the beating, but
-to advance steadily on his own line; for that purpose he has those three
-flagsmen allotted to him. There, you see that fellow on the farther edge
-of the svedgefall, showing his flag from that black-looking fir?—look
-through your glass, and you will easily make out the Ordningsman himself;
-there he is, with his compass in his hand, close by the farthest flag; he
-is taking the bearings of the first man that we made out; and there is
-the third now advancing to take up a new position. What he has to do is
-to keep those flags always in the straight line, and all the rest dress
-from him.”
-
-Just then, the Jagmästere rode, or rather clambered, into the svedgefall
-on his little cream-coloured pony, which, accustomed to the work,
-scrambled about the fallen trees more like a dog than a horse. He was
-attended by a large party on foot; one of these, who might be termed
-his orderly, had to lead his horse round by the forest cattle tracks,
-whenever it happened, as it very frequently did happen, that the
-under-stuff was too thick for a horseman to traverse.
-
-His right wing, which had been beating the easier and more open country
-towards the river, had got some distance in advance, and he was evidently
-directing the Ordningsman to halt in the svedgefall till the left had
-time to come up. Messengers were dispatched right and left; the bugles
-began to sound, some the “advance” and some the “halt,” and those
-parts of the line which had begun to emerge from the trees, were seen
-collecting in little groups in different attitudes of rest, lighting
-their pipes, or visiting their havresacs for their mid-dag’s mad of black
-bread and hard white cheese.
-
-Before long the left wing, the advanced flank of which was under their
-feet, made itself to be both heard and seen. The ground here was much
-more difficult, because at the immediate foot of the cliff the _debris_
-of ages had formed themselves into a very steep slope. This part, rugged
-and uneven with fallen blocks of stone, was covered with a close brake
-of underwood, not only of juniper, but of hazels and rowan bushes, all
-matted together by brambles,—as well as birch and ash, the last of which,
-winding its long roots among the stones, had in most places attained the
-dignity of timber trees.
-
-Well aware that every head of game disturbed along the whole line would,
-if possible, seek refuge here, the Jagmästere had intended that his left
-wing should be thrown forward, and had allotted a hundred men, under the
-most experienced of his Adjutanter, to search the ground well, keeping
-a mile or so in advance of the line. The eagerness of the men on first
-starting had somewhat disturbed this arrangement, for at the beginning
-the cover, along the greater part of the line, had consisted of firs,
-which not only screened the men from the eyes of their officers, but, by
-destroying the under-stuff, permitted them to get forwards without any
-great exertion. It was to rectify this that the halt had been called.
-
-“What is that?” said the Parson, jumping up and scattering half his
-mulberries down the precipice, as a rush of wings came sharp round the
-corner of the rock, and a great cock-tjäder, as big as a turkey, came
-close over his head, and dashed into the firs that crested the hill.
-
-“That,” said Birger, unslinging his rifle, “that is a hint that we ought
-to keep a better look-out;—not that we should have had that fellow
-though, for, awkward and heavy as they seem, they rush along like a round
-shot, when once they get into their flight. But never mind, we shall have
-more of them presently—mind where you shoot, though, if you use your
-rifle,—there will be a peasant or two knocked over before we have done,
-most likely. We do not think much of that, but you would not like to be
-playing Archbishop Abbott[52] yourself, would you?”
-
-The Parson laughed, as he examined and poised his double-barrelled
-gun—for the rifle was in the charge of Torkel,—and made a successful
-right and left shot among a covey of orre grouse that were skimming over
-the tree-tops at his feet.
-
-“Oh, if you stick to small shot,” said Birger, who had despatched a human
-retriever down the watercourse to pick up the birds, “you may fire away
-in the men’s faces if you like; there is not a Swede who would not stand
-the chance of a peppered jacket, to be able to pick up an article of
-game,”—a sentiment fully confirmed by the grinning faces of the picket,
-for whose benefit he had translated his words.
-
-“But we are not likely to have bears coming up to us, if we keep up such
-a popping as this,” said the Parson.
-
-“‘A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush;’ if there are bears within
-the skal, depend upon it we shall get them, sooner or later. Fire away!
-most of us like a broiled grouse for supper.”
-
-“Here goes for the bird of Yggdrasil,” as a magnificent peregrine falcon
-came floating through the air, as if by the mere act of volition; “he
-shall never sit again between the eyes of the eagle.”[53]
-
-Birger had, however, miscalculated his distance, for the bird, taking no
-more notice of his shot than if they had been hailstones, sailed quietly
-on his course, without turning to the right or left.
-
-“The bird of the gods bears a charmed life,” said the Parson, “it is no
-use firing at him. Come, load away! look sharp, or you will lose your
-next chance.”
-
-Game, however, is nowhere very plentiful, either in Norway or in Sweden;
-and though every eye in the picket was on the look-out, nothing more
-was seen, except a blue Alpine hare, that came quietly lopping up the
-watercourse, and sat on its hind legs, innocently looking Matthiesen in
-the face during the minute and half in which he was taking aim; the shot,
-however, was successful at last, and puss was destined to supply the
-evening kettle.
-
-“If you want a chance at big game,” said Birger, “I will tell you what
-you should do; it is altogether against the law, no doubt—and that is
-one of the few laws relating to skals that ought to be observed;—but if
-you were to slip down one of these watercourses with Torkel, and take
-your course quietly and silently through the fjeld, keeping four or five
-miles ahead of the dref, more unlikely things have happened than that you
-should set your eyes upon some beast or other stealing off. You have got
-your compass, and you cannot be lost in a little strip of a forest like
-this, not half a dozen miles across. Besides, every stream you come to
-runs from our pickets, which you may always reach by following it. You
-can always distinguish them in the day-time by their flags, and if you
-should be overtaken by night—”
-
-“If I should,” said the Parson, “there is nothing I should like better.
-Torkel will soon get up a fire. I have plenty of provisions in my
-havresac, and a little of the contraband, too,” he added, shaking his
-bottle; “they forgot to search me; so that if we should be out at night,
-we will try if we cannot make a night of it.”
-
-“So be it, then,” said Birger; “be early at the Captain’s post, that is
-all, for you may depend upon it, if I know anything of the lie of the
-country, there will be sport there long before the dref comes up. You
-will probably find me there before you.”
-
-“Au revoir, then,” said the Parson, as he swung himself off the cliff on
-which he had been sitting, into the boughs of an ash, and thus dropped
-into the watercourse; down this he disappeared, with Torkel after him,
-floundering, crashing, and rolling the stones before him.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIII.
-
-THE SATTERVAL.
-
- “’Tis merry, ’tis merry, in good greenwood,
- Though the birds have stilled their singing;
- The evening blaze doth Alice raise,
- And Richard is faggots bringing.”
-
- _Alice Brand._
-
-
-Avoiding the advanced column of the dref, which had halted just short of
-the watercourse, the Parson and his follower took a line nearly parallel
-to that of the hills. It is no easy thing to beat a Swedish forest,
-for there are every now and then thick-tangled brakes, and grass-grown
-svedgefalls, and occasionally, it may be, a little lake to break the
-line, causing perpetual halts, since one part must necessarily wait for
-another. But simply making a passage through a Swedish forest is almost
-as easy as walking on plain turf:—here there will be a wide patch of high
-pines, under which nothing will grow,—then there will be actual green
-glades of considerable length, with short mountain turf, broken only by
-tufts of lilies of the valley, or, perhaps, whortleberry or cranberry
-plants; and everywhere, when the trees are young, or have been cut, and
-the understuff has been permitted to come up thick, the whole space is
-intersected by cattle paths,—for all the fjeld is divided into sœters
-belonging to the lowland farms, forming the summer runs for their cattle.
-
-The Parson and his follower, therefore, had no difficulty in leaving the
-whole line behind them, so that first their shouts and then the reports
-of their firearms were lost in the distance, and the forest, soon to be
-so busy with life, looked as quiet and lonely as if it never could echo
-sounds louder than the coo of the wood-pigeon.
-
-After five or six miles’ walking, the closeness of the air under the
-trees began to tell upon them—more especially as this afternoon’s
-excursion had been preceded by a morning’s walk of sixteen or seventeen
-miles, and neither of them felt at all sorry when, in a natural opening
-of the forest, the rough enclosures of a sœter came into view.
-
-“Come,” said Torkel, “we shall get some brandy here, anyhow.” He was
-mistaken, however, for no living thing was to be found there, except a
-dog tied to a stump (for dogs are strictly forbidden in skals), that at
-first made the forest ring with its barking, but soon became reconciled
-to the intruders by that sort of free-masonry, whatever be the cause of
-it, which always exist between a dog and a sportsman.
-
-“At all events, they must have milk here,” he said, “and I am not sure
-whether, just now, I had not rather find milk than brandy.”
-
-The Parson laughed at Torkel’s unusual feelings of sobriety, but quite
-participated in his longing for milk. This they found, and plenty of it,
-for the single room of the cabin was full of vessels, shoved in anywhere,
-as if the milkers had been in such a hurry to complete a task which they
-could not have neglected without spoiling their cows, that they had not
-given themselves time to put their milk away.
-
-Torkel went down on his hands and knees, put his mouth into a bucket
-that stood near the door, and drank away as if—like Odin, when he
-wheedled Gunlauth into letting him take a sip from the cup of poetic
-inspiration—he meant to drain it to the very bottom, and then set to
-upon a sort of cake that he found strung upon a cord between two of the
-rafters, which looked something like a number of round, thin discs, of
-semi-transparent paste, with holes punched out of the centre to hang them
-up by.[54]
-
-The Parson, who was not less thirsty and exhausted, evinced a little
-more moderation than this “hog of the flock of Epicurus;” he was content
-with filling his horn occasionally at the milkpail, and floating in it a
-handful of cranberries, bushels of which were growing wherever a glimpse
-of sunshine could penetrate the canopy of foliage, “incarnading” with
-their red berries the turf of the whole forest, “and making the green one
-red.”
-
-The refreshment was, as Torkel had observed, better than brandy, and
-both felt quite sufficiently invigorated for a fresh journey; but their
-present quarters looked very comfortable,—the shadows of the evening
-were fast lengthening, and they had already advanced far beyond any
-point which the skal could be expected to reach that day. They remained,
-therefore, comfortably sitting on the rail fence, and looking down the
-grassy glade, without any intention of going farther that night. Since
-diving into the forest they had not seen a head of game of any kind,
-except a flock (for it hardly deserved a more sportsman-like appellation)
-of the smaller description of grouse, which Torkel, whose eyes were
-everywhere, had detected on the higher branches of one of the trees.
-Three of these the Parson had brought down in the most pot-hunting and
-unsportsman-like fashion, by getting them into a line as they sat, and
-bringing them down as a boy massacres fieldfares. These Torkel was
-indolently picking, and preparing for the frying-pan, an article which
-is generally to be found in a sœter, while, at the same time, he kept a
-professional eye on the glade. The Parson, sitting beside him, was as
-indolently pulling off the fruit of the hägg, a sort of wild cherry, a
-clump of which overshadowed the fence on which they were sitting, and
-afforded them a partial cover from any quick-sighted animal coming up
-from the forest.
-
-“I do not like these great summer skals,” said he. “If you really want
-to see sport you should come here in the winter, when the snow is on
-the ground,—that is the time for a man to set his wits against ‘old Fur
-Jacket,’—to ring him in the snow—to look out for his den—to turn him
-out—to dash after him through the snow on our skier—to follow him day
-after day—to camp on his track—and after him again as soon as day breaks,
-and at last, after a week’s hunting, perhaps, to run in upon him and
-put a rifle-ball upon his head. All this too is done quietly,—a party
-of two or three at the most,—not mobbing the poor devil to death in
-this fashion,—that is the thing that tries a man’s talents as a hunter.
-In such a skal as this, one of those squalling women could knock over
-a bear as well as the best of us, if she happened to meet with him;
-he very seldom shows fight, either, in the summer time,—he sees he is
-overmatched, and gives it up as a bad job; but in the winter, you may as
-well have a firm heart and a steady hand before you bring your rifle to
-bear, and you would be none the worse for a stout comrade to stand beside
-you, with pike and knife.”
-
-“The bear does charge them sometimes?” said the Parson.
-
-“Yes, if hit,” said Torkel, “or if he thinks you have got him into a
-corner, otherwise he would always rather run than fight. I remember one
-journey I had with two young Englishmen a few years ago; we went to shoot
-in Nordre Trondhjemsampt;—ah! you should go there if you want shooting.
-I never saw such a place for grouse of all kinds,—aye, and for deer too.
-Well, these Englishmen were always wanting to find a bear,—they would not
-be satisfied with the very best of sport, they kept saying that it would
-never do to come from Norway without having a bearskin to show their
-friends,—for all these Englishmen seem to think that bears are the common
-game of the country.”
-
-“We shot deer and grouse as many as we pleased, but we did not so much
-as hear of a bear till we had given up shooting altogether, and were
-travelling home, which we did by the road through Ostersund, Hernösand,
-and Gefle. When we got to the post-house at Skalstuga, the first on the
-Swedish side of the mountains; early in the morning, long before it was
-light, the cow-boy came in crying, and said that a bear had just killed
-one of the cows. Off goes one of our Englishmen, half naked, with his gun
-in his hand, just as if he had nothing bigger to shoot than a hare. I
-caught up an axe that was lying there and ran after him. Up he comes, and
-stands right in the bear’s path, just as if he cared no more for him than
-for a big dog, and fires away two barrels right in his face. Lord! it was
-nothing but small shot, such as he had been shooting grouse with, and the
-bear came at him like Thor’s hammer. Just in the way, as luck would have
-it, stood a sapling fir-tree; and I never could tell whether the bear
-was blinded by the smoke, or whether some of the small shot had taken
-him about the eyes, but he seemed to take the tree for that which had
-hurt him, and he reared himself up against it, and shook it, and fixed
-his teeth in it, and shook it again, and seemed to mind nothing else,
-till I stole up quietly behind him and drove the axe into his skull. The
-Englishman never seemed to care a bit about the danger he had escaped;
-all he said was, ‘Got him at last!’ ‘That’s the ticket!’ and shoved into
-my hand more yellow and green notes than ever I saw there before or
-since; and, for all he was so free with his money, he went to the Länsman
-at Ostersund and got the bear’s nose sealed, and touched the Government
-reward for it, just like one of us, and then he tossed the money to me,
-and told me to get drunk upon it.”
-
-“Which you did, I’ll be sworn,” said the Parson.
-
-“I believe I did!” said Torkel; “I was not fairly sober for a good three
-days after it.”
-
-“Hist! what is that,” said he, dropping, as he spoke, on the inside of
-the fence, and motioning the Parson to do so likewise.
-
-A wolf came lolloping along with the slovenly gallop in which that
-disreputable beast usually travels, looking as if it had sat up all
-night drinking and was not quite sober yet. The Parson laid down his
-gun, and quietly taking his rifle from Torkel, cocked it, and lodged it
-upon an opening between the planks. The wolf had not seen them, but came
-shambling on, when, either scenting his enemies, or knowing by experience
-the ineligibility of a path near fences, he edged away towards the close
-covert, showing a portion of his ungainly side at a long shot, and though
-looking as if he were lame of all four legs at the same time, clearing
-the ground with his immense and untiring strides faster than any dog
-could have followed him.
-
-Crack went the Parson’s rifle; but whether the wolf was hit, or whether
-he knew what a rifle-shot meant, or whether he so much as heard it, or
-saw the smoke, it was all the same; his course was not altered, his pace
-was neither relaxed nor quickened, he went lolloping on, just as when
-he was first seen, and, as much at his ease as ever, disappeared in the
-forest not a hundred yards from them.
-
-“Missed him, by all that is unlucky!” said the Parson, jumping up.
-
-“There is no knowing,” said Torkel; “if you had hit him it would have
-been all the same. Unless the shot strikes a part immediately vital they
-take no notice of it.”
-
-There was evidently nothing to be done; and, indeed, the probabilities
-were that the Parson really had missed, for there was not a vestige of
-blood to be seen on the turf; and as the shades were closing in and the
-woods were getting too dark to see anything, they returned to their
-comfortable quarters, and, by bringing in one of the cocks of rushy hay,
-they succeeded in making up on the floor of the hut two couches, much
-more luxurious than anything they had enjoyed since leaving Gäddebäck.
-
-“That will do,” said Torkel; “it is a great piece of luck that we
-happened upon this sœter. We shall make a much better cookery of our
-grouse here than we should have done under a tree in the fjeld. There
-must be a frying-pan here somewhere, if we had only light to find it by.”
-
-“Why do you not light the fire?” said the Parson; “that will give you
-light enough, for this fuel is as dry as tinder, and good honest birch,
-too, with some heart in it. You must have a fire for cooking, whether you
-want it for light or not, so heap up the hearth-stone at once.”
-
-This was done as soon as said; and to the cheerful blaze of dry and
-crackling fir succeeded the steady, candle-like flame of the birch,
-lighting up the remotest corners, and glancing on that indispensable
-requisite of mountain life which Torkel had been seeking. Fresh butter,
-just from the churn, is not altogether uneatable even in Sweden, and
-besides, hunger is not nice; the Parson consumed, with considerable
-relish, his own share of the grouse, and only wished they had been as big
-as black game, or tjäder. Brandy there certainly must have been somewhere
-in the hut, for there never was a Swedish hut without; but so well was it
-hidden, that all Torkel’s experience failed to bring it to light, and,
-very much to the Parson’s delight, they were reduced to milk, of which
-there was enough to supply the whole skal.
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, who had succeeded in twisting up his hay into
-a sort of chaise-longue, with a well-formed cushion for his back, “I
-did not expect to have a roof over my head; I must say this is a real
-piece of luxury. Why we are better off than the Captain with his tents;
-everything we want to our hands, and no host to ask for a reckoning.”
-
-“That would not be over safe in the Hardanger-fjeld,” said Torkel; “but
-I suppose Sweden is another thing: indeed, in Norway it is only on the
-Hardanger that the thing is permitted.”
-
-“What is permitted?” said the Parson.
-
-“Why the ghosts of the damned,” said Torkel, “are permitted to wander
-about the Hardanger as they please. No great favour after all, as you
-would say if you had ever seen the place; and when they see travellers
-coming they build comfortable huts by the wayside, with fires burning,
-and dry clothes, and plenty of brandy and good provisions, and everything
-a man wants in order to make himself comfortable. It would be pretty
-much of a temptation anywhere, and you may fancy what it is on that
-exposed and treeless waste, where, whenever it is not raining it is
-snowing, and if it is not snowing it is raining. But if a man once enters
-and accepts the hospitality, he is lost,—the rushing wind carries away
-the house and all that is in it, and the travellers are never heard of
-more.”
-
-“You never happened upon a ghost-house yourself, did you?” said the
-Parson.
-
-“I never did,” said Torkel, “though I have been a good deal on the
-Hardanger-fjeld in my day; it is a capital place for ripar. But the truth
-is, these things are not so frequent as they used to be. My father,
-though, once passed a very uncomfortable night on the fjeld, and he never
-could make out, to his dying day, whether the ghosts had or had not
-anything to do with it.”
-
-“How was that?” said the Parson, as he threw another log on the fire, and
-stirred the embers into a good ghost-story-telling blaze.
-
-“In those days,” said Torkel, “we lived near Bykle, on the upper
-Torjedahl, and grew a good deal of barley which we could not very well
-consume ourselves, and had no means to transport to Christiansand, where
-generally there is a pretty good market for it. So my father set up a
-still, and drove a good thriving trade with the country about Jordbrakke
-and Skore, exchanging our brandy for their salt fish, an article which
-is scarce enough in the Tellemark. My father used generally to meet a
-trader, of the name of Nilssen, at what is called a post-house, situated
-on a ridge that divides the Torjedahl from the waters that flow into
-Wester Hafvet (the North Sea). Why they called it a post-house I am sure
-I do not know, for there is not a horse within a day’s journey of it,
-nor a post-master neither, nor, indeed, any one else. It was built by
-Government, no doubt, but you seldom saw anything so bad at a common
-sœter. One miserable room of ten feet square, the walls built of dry
-stones, with the wind whistling in at one side and out at the other,
-which was the only means of carrying off the smoke. Fuel there was, and
-straw there was, for Government provides that, and the post-master
-of the next station is responsible that there shall always be a store
-of both; but Government says nothing about the quality, and we used
-generally to find the green bog myrtle which grows there, bad as it is,
-better fuel and better bedding than either of them.
-
-“One evening, about eight o’clock, my father arrived at the usual place,
-having appointed a meeting with Nilssen, but when he came there he could
-nowhere find the hut. He recognised the place well enough, there was
-no missing that; there was the deep still lake, the waters of which
-contained no living thing,—there it was, as black as ever; there, too,
-was that old mass of whinstone, which used to form the back of the hut,
-and always had a stream of moisture trickling down it, but no house was
-to be seen, and, what made matters worse was, that a thick mountain mist
-had come on, with driving rain, which felt as if every spiteful little
-drop was a needle. My father looked disconsolately along the track, and
-fancied he saw, through the blinding fog, the gleam of a fire; he went
-on some fifty yards, and there, sure enough, was a nice comfortable hut,
-water-tight and weather-tight, with the door wide open, a bright fire on
-the hearth, and two or three rounds of flad bröd and a Dutch cheese on
-the great stone in the middle which did duty for a table,—but not a soul
-was there.
-
-“My father was not easily frightened; he was an old sailor, and had
-helped to catch many of your English traders during the last war. He
-could have looked down the throat of a cannon, and did pretty near, for
-he was on board the _Najaden_ when the _Dictator_ sank her; but he did
-not much fancy being damned, for all that. So he looked and looked at the
-merry blaze that smiled its welcome through the door, and watched the
-cheese and the flad bröd which seemed to be dancing in its light, but for
-all that he laid himself down under the lee of a rock, and cold, and wet,
-and miserable, wished for morning, for the wind blew, and the rain kept
-pelting away all night, till he thought it would have floated him, rock
-and all, into the Normand’s Laagen; and there, all the time, was the fire
-blazing away, till it subsided into a glowing heap of red-hot embers.
-
-“Towards morning he fell into a miserable sleep, and when he woke up the
-mist was gone, the sun was shining brightly, and there was not a shred
-of cloud to be seen. The first thing he put his eyes upon was Nilssen,
-coming up from the shores of the lake, and looking as wet, and as cold,
-and as wretched as he was.
-
-“‘Ah,’ said Nilssen, ‘so you have been lost in the fog, like me. My
-misfortune was all my own fault, too. I got here yesterday in very good
-time, and lighted the fire, and made all comfortable, and then I must
-needs be fool enough to start after a covey of ripar, that I did not get
-a shot at after all; and then the mist came on, and I could not find my
-way back. A wretched night I have passed, I can tell you.’
-
-“‘What,’ said my father, ‘was it you who lighted that fire?’
-
-“‘To be sure I did,’ said Nilssen, ‘who else should? Men are not so
-plentiful in this cursed place.’
-
-“‘And you are not damned, after all?’
-
-“‘Not that I know of,’ said Nilssen.
-
-“‘That is not the old hut, though, I will take my oath.’
-
-“‘No,’ said Nilssen, ‘it is not; the other was very nearly to pieces,
-as you may recollect, when we were last here. The roof fell in not a
-month after that, and then the authorities of the three Ampts contrived
-to settle their differences, and do what they ought to have done years
-ago—build a new one at their joint expense. They have not made a bad job
-of it. Come in, you are cold enough.’
-
-“‘And I have been lying out in this cursed rain and wind all night,’ said
-my father, ‘with a good fire before my eyes, and a warm roof within fifty
-yards of me, fancying all the while that you were damned, and that you
-wanted to take me off to the Devil along with you! What a confounded fool
-I have been!’
-
-“But I am not sure that my father was such a fool either,” continued
-Torkel, “for Nilssen died very soon after that; in fact, he had caught a
-bad cold during that night, and as he had sold us a lot of bad fish, I
-have no doubt he _was_ damned; at all events, it is quite true that from
-that day forward my father was never entirely free from the rheumatism,
-and this in his latter days, when he began to get religious, he always
-attributed to the sight of the fire in the post-house; for he never was
-without his misgivings that Nilssen had been damned before he met him.
-He once went as far as Hardnæs to ask the priest about it, and he said
-that the idea was new to him, certainly, but that he would not take upon
-himself to pronounce it impossible. To the very end of his life, my
-father used to congratulate himself upon the fortitude and self-denial he
-had evinced during that terrible night, ‘because,’ said he, ‘if the bare
-sight of that fire through the mist was visited so severely, no one can
-say what would have been the consequence had I sat by it all night.’”
-
-“No,” said the Parson, solemnly, “no one can.”
-
-“You see,” said Torkel, “the whole question hinges on the fact whether
-Nilssen was damned or not; now he certainly did take us in about the
-fish—we were obliged to throw away half of it. I should like very much to
-have your opinion on the subject.”
-
-“Why,” said the Parson, gravely, “will you take upon yourself to say, on
-your conscience, as a Christian man, that there was no potato-haulm in
-the wash from which your brandy was distilled?”
-
-Torkel laughed, and rubbed his hands at the recollection. “No,” said he,
-“that I will not; I do not think the old scoundrel made much by us, after
-all.”
-
-“Well, if that is the case, I do not think, if I were you, I would be too
-hard upon poor Nilssen about the next world. But you ought to be able
-to judge for yourself whether the laager was a ghost-house or not; what
-became of it?”
-
-“O, there it is still,” said Torkel. “I have slept in it often myself
-since, and no harm has happened from it. But all that hill-country is a
-terrible place. Do you know, the Evil One once leaped over the Tind Sö,
-where it is four miles across? He did, indeed; I have seen the prints of
-his footsteps with my own eyes—and a very curious thing it is, that one
-foot is bigger than the other. Our Kyrkesonger says it is to mark the
-difference between mortal and venial sins.”
-
-“I am afraid your Kyrkesonger will never rise to the rank of Candidatus,”
-said the Parson, “if he does not get up his theology a little better. Is
-not this the place where your witches meet?”
-
-“It is not far from it; and it is generally supposed that it was in
-hurrying away from one of these meetings, which was suddenly dispersed
-by some one having accidentally named a holy name, that the Devil left
-the mark of his feet on the shores of the Tind Sö; but the actual place
-of meeting is the top of Gousta Fjeld. The ridge of the mountain is so
-narrow that you may sit astride on it, with a leg on each side in the
-air, and no resting-place under either foot for a thousand fathoms. On
-this ridge the Devil sits playing on the bagpipe, while the witches dance
-the polska round him in the air. They come from all parts of the country,
-riding upon the skyts-horse, which looks like a flying cow, and carrying
-with them all the children they can catch, in order to enlist them in
-the Devil’s service; for each witch has a needle, by which she unlocks
-the sides of the houses, and makes an opening, if she likes, big enough
-for a carriage and horses to pass through; and after she has passed,
-she locks them up so that no one can know where she has been. When she
-arrives at the convent—so the assembly is called,—she presents to the
-Devil all those children whom she has brought with her: she cannot force
-the children to take service with him,—some refuse, and the witches are
-obliged to carry them back again. These are good and holy people ever
-afterwards; but most of them do enter the Devil’s service, for though he
-is bound down with a chain, which he has always worn ever since our Lord
-came upon earth, yet he can make himself look so fine and so glorious
-that very few of them like to say ‘no,’ and to go back to their homes
-through the dark night. If they once say ‘yes,’ he gives them a silver
-dollar each, and marks them, by biting the crown of their heads; and then
-they are taught to curse all that is holy—the Heaven, and the earth, and
-the fruits of the field, and the birds of the air,—all except the magpie,
-for that is the Devil’s own peculiar favourite. And then the witches
-make them a mess of rö-gröd, with corn that has been stolen. They have a
-way of their own for stealing corn: they put a sack to the roof of the
-granary as they fly past, and say ‘Corn draw corn, and straw draw straw,’
-and then all the corn flies up into their sacks, and the straw remains
-behind. I know this to be true, for I have lost lispund after lispund
-myself that way. I had a girl in my service once, who was a witch, and
-I lost as much as three tonne of corn, and a great many things besides,
-while she was with me. But she vanished one night and has never been
-heard of since, and with her a great scoundrel, who had lately come into
-our parts, whom she called her lover,—but the people said he was the
-Devil in disguise.”
-
-“Very likely,” said the Parson, “lovers very often are; but what about
-your witch children?”
-
-“When they have done all this, the Devil gives notice of the next
-convent, and the witches take the children, and they grow up with their
-brothers and sisters just like any of the others, only that they are
-cross-grained children from that time forward, and are always getting
-into one mischief or another, and quarrelling, and fighting, and
-stealing, and lying, and doing the Devil’s work on earth; for they have
-all had new names given them at the convent, and whenever the Devil calls
-them by those names, they must go and do whatever work he sets them
-at, for they have taken his wages, and, having once engaged to be his
-servants, they cannot help themselves now.”
-
-The Parson felt by no means inclined to laugh at Torkel’s demonology,
-every bit of which may be found gravely and solemnly recorded in the
-State papers of Sweden, for it once formed the grounds of accusation upon
-which men and women were executed by the dozen; for with the exception
-of the material and tangible facts, the cow-like horse, and the silver
-dollar, and the ridge of Gousta, and the bagpipes, the whole of Torkel’s
-story was but an over-true allegory, the antitype of which may be found
-everywhere in real life; and the fact of the Superior Power compelling
-the restoration of all who do not willingly engage in the Devil’s
-service, is a very sound piece of theology. So he very readily joined
-in the prayer of the Evening Hymn, a very ancient composition, dating
-from centuries before the Reformation, which Torkel sang as well and as
-heartily as if he had been kyrkesonger himself. A portion of it has been
-thus translated:—
-
- “Ere thy head, at close of day,
- On thy lowly couch thou lay,
- On thy forehead and thy breast
- Be the Cross of Christ impressed.
-
- “Sin and shame, like shades of night,
- Fade before the Cross’s light,—
- Hallowed thus, the wavering will
- And the troubled heart are still.
-
- “Far, far hence, dark phantoms fly,—
- Haunting demons come not nigh,—
- Ever waiting to betray,
- Arch Deceiver, hence!—away!
-
- “Serpent! with thy thousand coils,
- With thy many winding wiles,
- With thy deep, meandering arts,
- Ruffling calm and quiet hearts;
-
- “Hence!—for Christ, yea, Christ is here,—
- At His token disappear;
- Lo! the sign thou well hast known
- Bids thy cursed crew begone!”
-
- It is a fact that the Gousta Fjeld and the Tind Sö, a very
- large and lonely lake at its foot, are popularly supposed to
- be the resort of the Devil and his adherents. The author,
- however, has not been able to meet with any authentic accounts
- of the diabolical convents in Norway. He has, therefore,
- substituted those of Sweden, the locality of which is
- Blaakulla, in Dalecarlia. These are quoted by Frederika Bremer
- from the manuscript of Kronigsward, which details the judicial
- murders which took place under Councillor Lawrence Kreutz,
- in 1671,—were continued for three years, and were suppressed
- at last by the exertions of Countess Catharine de la Gardie.
- But, though the executions for witchcraft were put an end to,
- the belief in it is as rife as ever. The same book contains
- a laughable story of a supposed witch residing in the island
- of Söllezo, in the Silya Sjön, and of her recovery; which
- proves that the clergy of Sweden have not lost their power as
- exorcists. Not many years ago, a young girl of that island
- asserted positively that she was conveyed every evening to
- Blaakulla. Her parents, who were honest but simple folks, were
- much disturbed about it. They closely watched their daughter
- by night,—bound her fast in bed with cords,—but nothing would
- avail; for, in the morning, weeping bitterly, she still
- maintained she had been at Blaakulla. At last, her unhappy
- parents took her to the clergyman upon the island, and begged
- him, with earnest tears, to save their child from the claws of
- Satan. After having had several interviews with the maiden,
- the clergyman one day said to her, “I know a remedy,—a certain
- remedy to cure you! but it will give me much trouble. Yet, as
- nothing else appears to be of any avail, we will have recourse
- to it.” With much solemnity, he caused the girl to seat herself
- upon a commodious chair in the centre of the apartment, took up
- a “Cornelius Nepos,” and began reading one of the lives. Before
- he had finished, she fell fast asleep; and when she awoke, the
- clergyman told her she was cured—and she was so!
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIV.
-
-MAKING ANOTHER NIGHT OF IT.
-
- “Unstable are autumn nights,—
- The weather changes
- Much in five days—
- Still more in a month.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
- “Praise the day at eventide,
- The wife when she is dead,
- The sword when thou hast proved it,
- The maid when she is married,
- Ice when thou hast crossed it,
- Ale when thou hast drunken it.”
-
- _Ibid._
-
-
-Probably their couches were softer than usual,—probably the fact of their
-being under a roof where the sun could not shine on their faces, might
-have prolonged their slumbers; but the fact is, the cock, had there been
-one at the sœter, which there was not, would have “had his boots on”[55]
-a very long while before either the Parson or his follower had opened
-their eyes; and when they did open them, it was some time before either
-of them could recollect where they were. Swedes are not over fond of open
-air, and though their glazed windows in the towns are large enough and
-numerous enough to prove that no ingenious chancellor of the exchequer
-had ever devised a tax upon their light, yet in the fjeld, where glass is
-scarce, windows are scarce too, and the few that there are, are generally
-stuffed with hay. In the present case, though the sun was well above the
-trees, there was not light enough to see the smoky rafters over head,
-or the scarcely less dirty strings of flad bröd which were dangling
-from them; but all round the building there was a perpetual ringing of
-bells, from the great cracked bass to the little tinkling treble; the
-sheep, scared by the noises and the fires, had wandered home during the
-night, and the cows were collecting round the door of the sœter in hopes
-of being milked, which hopes, for one or two of them, at least, were
-speedily realized,—for Torkel, taking the bucket that had been well-nigh
-drained over night, proceeded very composedly to milk them, just as if he
-were in his own sœter in the Tellemark, observing quietly that new milk
-was better than old.
-
-In Sweden, as well as in Norway, every animal turned out on a mountain
-pasture has a bell round its neck; certain _esprits forts_ (all of whom
-do it, notwithstanding, as well as their more credulous neighbours)
-assert stoutly that it is to enable the girls to find them among the
-trees; but as cows generally keep together, and sheep do so, invariably,
-one bell would be quite sufficient for the purpose. The more probable
-solution is that given honestly in the Tellemark: that the bells are tied
-on to prevent the Trolls from milking them in the night,—for no Troll, as
-is well known, can abide a bell.
-
-While Torkel was in the midst of his operations as deputy dairyman, and
-the Parson was looking on, half doubting the propriety of the thing,
-and half inclined to put a stop to it, a sound of laughing and talking
-was heard behind the fence, and three girls, none of them more than
-eighteen or twenty, came clambering over it. Torkel did not seem the
-least in the world disconcerted, nor did they on their part testify the
-smallest surprise or displeasure, though one of them was the proprietor’s
-daughter, and temporary mistress of the hut, and the others were her
-servants; but after exchanging a few joking observations relative to
-their respective modes of passing the preceding night, and the young
-ladies’ taste for field sports, they all set to work milking in earnest,
-and provided for the sportsmen a better breakfast than they were likely
-to have achieved by their own unassisted efforts; nor could they be
-prevailed upon to accept any payment, beyond laughingly insisting upon
-the intruders carrying out every bit of hay, rebuilding the hay-cock,
-sweeping out the room, and putting everything tidily into its place;
-till the Parson detected Miss Lilla eyeing, with evident admiration,
-a pair of Tellemarken shirt-buttons,—round hollow silver balls, about
-the size of a grape-shot, with which he had decorated his broad-flapped
-hat. These, after a good deal of pressing, she permitted the “Herr
-Englesk” to fasten on the red silk handkerchief which formed her very
-becoming head-dress, and they parted mutually pleased, Lilla remarking
-politely—as the Parson, shouldering his gun and taking off his hat after
-the manner of the natives, bade her farvel (for the word is Swedish no
-less than English)—“Jeg er ret lykkelig ved at kunne berede dem denne
-lille Tjeneste,” which, as Lilla was a pretty girl, Torkel condescended
-to understand and interpret,—a thing which he had often professed himself
-utterly unable to do when the speaker was a bearded man, and informed
-the Parson that she was very happy in finding such an opportunity of
-rendering this trifling service.
-
-The Parson’s Swedish was at an end with his “farvel;” all he could do in
-return was to bow and smile, and wave his hand, as he vaulted over the
-rail and left the hospitable sœter behind him.
-
-Their journey through the forest was little more than a counterpart of
-that of yesterday,—now traversing spaces roofed with gloomy fir, and
-beech not less gloomy when you see their undersides only and breathe
-nothing but the confined air below them,—now breathing freely in a glade
-or svedgefall, and gathering a handful of whorts or cranberries by the
-way,—now pushing through a belt of under-stuff, thick enough to conceal
-an elephant, but all the time meeting with very little game. Indeed,
-skals are not by any means the likeliest times to find the smaller game,
-and even the larger lurk unseen till the very end of them. Torkel had
-cracked off the Parson’s rifle at a Lo, as he called it—that is to say, a
-lynx,—that jumped up from under his feet and dashed into a thicket, but
-with very little effect beyond frightening it, though the beast was twice
-as large as a fox and twice as red. The parson had brought down a hen
-“capercailzie,”—but that was the whole of their morning’s sport.
-
-For some time the under-stuff had been unusually thick, and had formed a
-considerable impediment to their progress; they had persevered through it
-for about half a mile, and the wood gave no signs of becoming more open,
-when Torkel stopped, and looked right and left of him through the stuff,
-as if to find an opening.
-
-“We must be skirting the border of a svedgefall,” said he, “where the air
-comes in freely; these hazels would never grow in the close forest,—let
-us edge a little to the right, we are taking the belt end-ways.”
-
-“The right!” said the Parson; “that seems even thicker than where we are
-now.”
-
-“That is the very reason,” said Torkel; “the nearer the svedgefall, the
-more air,—the more air the closer the understuff.”
-
-The Parson thought this remarkably good reasoning, and set himself boldly
-to face the difficulty, instead of shrinking from it,—a proceeding which,
-were it generally followed in our course through life, would seldom fail
-to meet with its reward.
-
-It did not on this occasion, at all events, for after a hundred yards or
-so of hard struggle, they suddenly emerged into an open plain of some
-miles in length, and a good half mile across. It was not a svedgefall,
-as Torkel had imagined, but the clearing formed by an old fire, the
-effects of which nature had already, in a great measure, succeeded
-in repairing; for a coarse grass, gemmed with all manner of flowers,
-covered the greater part of it, through which the spiræa raised its
-feathery head; large tracts were vividly green with young birches, as
-yet hardly higher than the grass, but closely set, as if planted in a
-nursery;—here and there the cranberry threw a gleam of crimson into
-nature’s carpeting, while the epilobium—an absolute tree compared to the
-dwarf plants around it—showed, with its thickly set flowers, a mass of
-lilac; and the fox-glove (in Sweden a holy flower), bent its head and
-rang its fairy bells, inaudible by mortal ears, whenever a good angel
-passed it by on his errand of mercy. A few great mournful dead trees were
-still stretching out their helpless and blackened branches, like the old
-and ruined families after a revolution, sorrowful remembrances of the
-glories which had passed away; but most of these had dropped where they
-had stood, and were already concealed by the vigorous young undergrowth,
-which was springing up all the more vigorously because the soil had been
-for ages fertilized by the leaves of their predecessors.
-
-The Parson sat down exhausted on one of these remains of fallen majesty,
-and fanned himself with his broad-leafed hat, while Torkel, standing on
-the highest point he could find, cast a look up and down the opening,
-which seemed as silent and as destitute of animal life as any part they
-had hitherto traversed.
-
-“There is something,” said he; “I see it move—I am sure there is
-something alive there.”
-
-The Parson was up in an instant, with his telescope in his hand.
-
-“There it is,” said Torkel, “on the farther edge, just under the high
-trees—that tall dead trunk with a forked head is exactly in the line;
-look there, I see it move now as plainly as possible.”
-
-“I have got it now,” said the Parson, “and it is a bear, too, if ever I
-saw one in the Zoological Gardens.”
-
-“Hush!” said Torkel; “do not say that, or we shall never get a shot at
-it.”
-
-“Why?” said the Parson; “it is almost out of sight, let alone out of
-hearing.”
-
-“That does not signify,” said Torkel, “that animal is wiser than any of
-us; whether it has a fylgia, or guardian[56] spirit, like us, is more
-than I can say, but it is the truth, that if ever you name its name you
-will get no shot at it, and fortunate for you if you do not meet with
-some piece of ill luck into the bargain.”
-
-“Well, well,” said the Parson, “I will take care in future; but what am I
-to call him?”
-
-“Call him Old Fur Jacket! or call him The Disturber! or call him The Wise
-One! anything you like, only do not call him what you have done just
-now. I hope no mischief will come of it.”
-
-“There are two,” said the Parson; “there is a little one—I see it plainly
-enough, now that they have got clear from that patch of epilobium. What
-on earth is the old—pshaw!—the Old Wise One about? she seems to be
-administering a little wholesome discipline to young Fur Jacket;”—and he
-handed the glass to Torkel.
-
-“She has been frightened,” said he, “she has been roused out by the dref,
-and she is making her cub get up into the tree; they very frequently
-do that when they suspect they will have to run or fight for it. Young
-Wilful does not seem to know what is good for him, and must be flogged
-into it. Just like our own younkers,” said Torkel, philosophically,
-taking another look through the glass.
-
-“It is not very good for him just now,” said the Parson, “with our eyes
-upon him. If he once gets up he is a lost Fur Jacket.”
-
-“And up he gets,” said Torkel, “and receives a parting benediction from
-his mother’s paw across his stern, just to freshen his way, as Tom says.
-And now how to get a crack at the Old Lady? if we were on the other side
-we might do it easily enough, but the stuff here is not high enough to
-hide us; those brutes have eyes sharp enough to see through a mill-stone.”
-
-“Had we better not watch her? perhaps she will think that which is good
-for young Hopeful will be good for her; we shall have her climbing,
-herself, next.”
-
-“Not she, she knows better; the branch that is very good protection to a
-little lump of brown fur, she knows well enough, would not do for a beast
-almost as big as a cow,—you will not catch her up a tree, and you need
-not expect it.”
-
-“What is to be done then? there she is still.”
-
-“I do not know anything better than to keep along this edge, till we put
-a mile or so of ground between us and her, and then to cross; and the
-sooner we start the better, for she will not stay long after she has
-disposed of her young one.”
-
-“Good!” said the Parson, “and now for finding the place again;”—and he
-took out his compass and placed it on the fallen trunk. “That forked
-tree bears to us exactly E. by N.; when we come down the other side and
-bring it W. by S., we shall not be very far from the place; and then the
-northern edge of that large clump of epilobium will give us the exact
-mark. And now to get there as quick as we may.”
-
-They had not proceeded a couple of hundred yards when they met with a
-brook which intersected the opening nearly at right angles.
-
-“This will do,” said Torkel, jumping into it, for it was not much more
-than knee deep, and clear as crystal. “The fall of the ground, the bed of
-the stream, and the stuff that always grows on the banks, will be quite
-sufficient cover for us.”
-
-On they went, stooping, sometimes splashing through the water itself,
-sometimes creeping on hands and knees under the bank, resting for a while
-behind some friendly rock or stump, then creeping on again, till at last
-they neared the opposite side; and then, seeking the shelter of the
-trees, they took a few minutes’ rest—for going on all-fours is anything
-but a comfortable mode of progression. Slowly and warily they advanced,
-peering about, moving from tree to tree, and looking closely into every
-bush before they showed themselves. There was the place evidently enough;
-the north corner of the epilobium was near enough to the forked tree
-to make a capital mark—there could be no mistake as to the locality;
-besides, the bear’s tracks were evident enough on some soft ground; but
-no living creature was to be seen. The bear had either heard them, or
-smelt them, or, having provided for her young one, and being restless and
-anxious on account of the noises that had roused her at first, had gone
-on to some thicker cover.
-
-“That comes of calling the beast by his name,” said Torkel, half sulkily;
-“never do that again, at least not in the fjeld. Well, never mind, we
-will have young Innocence, at all events; the reward is half as much for
-a cub as it is for an old one.”
-
-“That is all you think about,” said the Parson.
-
-“No it is not,” said Torkel; “I like the sport itself as well as any
-man living—I love it for its own sake; but I should not mind a few of
-their yellow notes, either, to be turned into honest, hard Norwegian
-specie-dalers, and laid up for the winter,—at least, just now, for Lota’s
-sake. Fancy what a set of scoundrels these Swedes must be, when they have
-to print on all their notes, ‘Whoso forges this shall be hanged’—we do
-not do that in Norway.”
-
-“No,” said the Parson, “you are none of you clever enough to forge—the
-_Norges Bank’s Representativ_ is quite safe in such clumsy hands as
-yours.”
-
-“There he sits, just in that fork close to the trunk,” said Torkel, who,
-if he had not, as the Parson insinuated, skill enough in his fingers to
-forge a note, had quickness enough in his eyes to see through a log of
-timber, if a bear had been hiding behind it. “There is young Innocence!
-Oh! do not spoil his skin with that small shot. Here is the rifle. Put
-the ball in under his ear,—that will not hurt him.”
-
-It did not seem to hurt him, in good truth, for he never moved an inch
-on receiving the shot, though the blood dripping down the tree showed
-that the ball had reached its mark. The cub remained perfectly dead, but
-supported by the fork in which he was sitting.
-
-“What is to be done now?” said the Parson; “I do not see how to get him
-down, for the trunk is too big to swarm up, and we have not a branch for
-twenty feet; but it will never do to leave him there.”
-
-“Leave him!” said Torkel; “O no! that would never do. I think we may get
-up into that tree, though, with a little management.”
-
-There was growing, within a few yards of the great tree which the bear
-had selected, a small thin weed of a fir, which, coming up in the shade,
-had stretched itself out into a long branchless pole with a bunch of
-green at the top, in its legitimate aspirations after light and air.
-Torkel, disengaging the axe which he usually carried at his back, notched
-it on the nearer side, and then, seeing its inclination would carry it to
-the great tree on which the cub was hanging, cut vigorously. In a minute
-or two the little fir sank quietly into the yielding arms of his great
-neighbour, and formed with its trunk a rough ladder. Up this Torkel,
-having paused for a moment to see if it had finally settled, climbed
-as readily as any bear in the forest. He was soon seen worming himself
-through the spreading branches, and slipping down to the fork; and the
-little lump of bear’s fat, about the size of a two-year-old hog, came
-squashing down upon the turf.
-
-Small as it was for a bear, it was impossible to carry it; so they tied
-its hind legs together, and hung it upon one of the dead trees in the
-open, the Parson having first pinned upon its snout a leaf which he had
-torn out of his note-book, and had written Torkel’s name upon it.
-
-Torkel, however, was mistaken about his share of the yellow notes,
-though the Parson did not suffer him to lose by it. Every bear killed in
-a skal is the property of the Ofwer Jagmästere; a regulation which is
-found to be absolutely necessary, in order to prevent men from breaking
-their ranks and hunting the likely places independently,—a proceeding
-which would ensure the loss of every bear except the particular animal
-which was the object of immediate pursuit. Of this Torkel was not aware,
-because in Norway skals such as this seldom or never take place, not
-only because the ground is generally too difficult, but principally
-because the inhabitants are too widely scattered to be easily collected
-in sufficient numbers, and a great deal too lawless to be managed if they
-could.
-
-With all the complacency which the consciousness of having done a good
-action confers, they proceeded on their journey, which, as their course
-happened to lie lengthways of the opening, was easy enough. Hot, and the
-least little bit in the world fatigued, they sauntered along on the shady
-side of the glade, till they began to discover that the whole country had
-become shady, and that a little sun, if it was to be had, would be just
-as pleasant. In fact, it had become extremely chilly.
-
-“There goes Thor’s hammer,” said Torkel, as a crash of thunder burst over
-their heads, echoing from tree to tree; “we need not fear the Trolls
-now, every one of them is half-way to the centre of the earth by this
-time.”
-
-“I wish we had nothing worse to fear,” said the Parson; “but this gradual
-darkening looks a great deal more like a spell of bad weather than a
-sudden storm. I wish we knew where the Captain’s post is.”
-
-“We cannot be within seven or eight miles of that,” said Torkel; “and
-I really do think that we are going to have a wet night, and plenty of
-mist into the bargain. It will be perfectly impossible for us to find
-the post, knowing so little of the country as we do. We had better hut
-ourselves at once. If we had been on the hill we might have seen this
-coming, but down here it was impossible, with no sky visible, except that
-which is right over our heads.”
-
-“Well,” said the Parson, “if it is to be, we may as well halt at once. So
-off with your havresac, and turn to. This spreading fir will do as well
-as any for our canopy.”
-
-Torkel was a man of deeds, and his assent and approbation were
-demonstrated by his throwing down his havresac and forthwith selecting
-and cutting down a young fir for his ridge-pole; and,—while the Parson
-was securing the locks of the guns with handkerchiefs, and such like
-extemporaneous expedients,—for the gun covers had, of course, been left
-with the baggage,—he had already cut down two pair of cross timbers to
-lay it on. The Parson, with his hand-bill, aided him vigorously, and
-the more so that the rain had now begun to patter sharply from leaf to
-leaf, and it was very evident that no long time would elapse before
-it found its way to their localities below. The frame-work of the hut
-was arranged, and branches of the fir and beech, and coarse grass and
-juniper,—in fact anything that could be collected on the spur of the
-moment,—was laid on as thatch, while Torkel hastily drew together and
-chopped up the driest stuff he could find for the fire.
-
-The rain was now coming on in right earnest, and the night was
-prematurely setting in. The drops came through thicker and thicker, each
-one as big as a marble; and the sportsmen, with jackets more than half
-wet through, crept disconsolately into the unfinished hut, in order, as
-Torkel said, to make themselves comfortable.
-
-The first piece of comfort which was discovered was that the havresacs,
-which had been thrown off at the beginning of the hutting operations,
-had been left where they were thrown, and were by this time wet through
-and through, together with every morsel of bread that they contained.
-The supper was not luxurious, and, as neither was greatly disposed for
-conversation, they laid themselves up in the warmest corner they could
-find, and courted forgetfulness, as well as rest and refreshment, in
-sleep.
-
-The Parson, as an old fisherman, had been pretty well accustomed to a
-minor description of roughing it. The boxes of dried poplar leaves of a
-Norwegian cottage, or the heaps of hay of a sœter-farm were to him as
-feather beds. A rainy day, too, he had often hailed as remarkably good
-fishing weather, but a night’s bivouac, sub-Jove, and that Jove pluviali,
-was rather a new thing to him; and his cloak, too, miles off, under the
-charge of the faithful Jacob. One habit, however, he had picked up in his
-travels, which stood him in good stead now, and that was the habit of
-“making the best of it.”
-
-Bad was the best; the fuel was wet and scanty, and the fire soon went
-out; and Torkel’s house, run up hastily and after dark, was as little
-water-tight as if it had been built by contract. Before midnight the
-Parson was roused up, first by detached drops and then by little
-streamlets falling on his face and person, and wet and chilled, he lay
-counting the hours, and envying Torkel, who snored comfortably through it
-all.
-
-Morning came at last—it always does come if we wait long enough for
-it,—and a dull and misty light began to struggle in through the opening
-of the hut, and through several other openings also, which, during the
-past night had officiated, though uncalled for, as spouts for the water.
-
-Still the rain fell, not in showers, not violently, for there was not a
-breath of wind, but evenly, quickly, steadily, as if, conscious of its
-resources, it meant to rain for ever; while the big drops from the fir
-branches kept patter, patter, on the soppy ground, and the mist hung so
-low that you could scarcely see the branches they fell from.
-
-“Hang that fellow, he will sleep for ever,” said the Parson; “come, rouse
-out Torkel, ‘show a leg,’ as Tom says, it is broad daylight now, and high
-time for us to be moving.”
-
-Torkel stretched himself and rubbed his eyes, and looked stupid; his
-thoughts had not returned from his native Tellemark, and his prospects of
-a “home and pleasing wife,” on the banks of the Torjedahl, of which, in
-all probability, he had been dreaming.
-
-“Come, Torkel, rouse up my boy,” said the Parson, kicking him; “here
-is the tail end of the brandy-flask for you, and when that is gone, we
-must find our way to where more is to be had.” The hint of brandy had
-the desired effect of waking up the old hunter; for even his iron frame
-was none the better for the night’s soaking. The brandy, however, put
-them both in good-humour, and having extracted from their havresacs that
-which had once been excellent kahyt scorpor, but which now were black
-soppy lumps of dough, they made an extempore breakfast, seasoned by some
-chips of Fortnum and Mason’s portable soup, a piece of which the Parson
-invariably carried with him, but which, as there was now no possibility
-of lighting a fire, they were obliged to suck or eat as they could.
-
-“Now Mister Torkel, _en route!_ hvar er väga til hållet? we must get
-there before we taste brandy again, that is certain; pray Heaven they
-have not broken up the skal, and left us alone in our glory. That is our
-direction,” continued he, looking at his pocket-compass, “but the thing
-is to keep it, in this thick wood and thick weather, when no one can see
-a dozen yards before his nose.”
-
-Every one who has been out in a fog knows the propensity the traveller
-invariably has to work round in a circle, and to return to the spot from
-which he started. True, in the present case, the compass was a safeguard
-against this, but to consult the compass when walking or riding requires
-time, the needle does not settle itself to the north without a good deal
-of vacillation; and here the lie of the country gave no assistance
-whatever; it was not a plain, certainly, for it was very uneven, and
-occasionally rocky, but there was nothing like hill, or any continuous
-direction of declivities, which could form a guide. Here and there were
-dense brakes, every leaf and twig of which, overcharged with moisture,
-showered down its stores upon them, and there was no possibility of
-picking the ground, where the only chance of finding the track lay in
-keeping the compass course. No brook had been met with of sufficient
-volume to render it probable that it had come from behind the hills; and
-besides, it was more than probable that the watercourses, which formed
-the only communications with the pickets above, were much too full now to
-be practicable.
-
-As hour after hour wore on, and the forest seemed always like that
-through which they had started in the morning, the Parson was more than
-once tempted to follow the course of the running water, and to make his
-way down to the river, upon the chance of at least a shelter and a meal
-at one of the farm-houses; but the hopes of effecting a junction with his
-friends, and still more with his baggage, kept him to his course, though
-the hållet—as Virgil’s Italy served poor Æneas—seemed to be continually
-going backwards as he approached it.
-
-“Hallo!” said Torkel at last, who was then a little in advance, “what
-have we got to now, a svedgefall, or a sœter? the fjeld is much clearer
-here. Oho, I see! this will do; look here, this juniper was cut only
-lately, and here is another stump, and the branches all carried away,
-too, and there is a tree that has got its lower boughs trimmed; we have
-got to the shooting line at last.”
-
-“Upon my word, I think we have,” said the Parson; “and if so, we must
-turn short up to the left, and the Captain’s post cannot be far from us.”
-
-“Unless they have broken up the skal,” said Torkel.
-
-“If they have, I am sure we shall find some one here, left to guide
-us; Lieutenant Birger knows that we are to make for this spot. Here is
-something, at all events,” as they came in sight of a line of peeled
-saplings, right across the path, which had for some time begun to ascend
-rather rapidly. “This will do, I am sure;” for now a peasant, who had
-been sitting cowering under the rock, with a soldier’s musket in his
-hand, the lock of which he had covered with a sack that had evidently
-done duty with the carioles, came forward to meet them.
-
-He was not very communicative, however, for he could not speak English,
-and would not understand Norwegian; but, at all events, they learnt to
-their comfort that the post was there still, and, after ten minutes sharp
-pull up a steep but very open and practicable pass, they came in sight of
-the Captain’s watch-fires, situated in the gorge of it.
-
-“Home at last!” said the Parson.
-
-“And high time, too,” said the Captain. “There, pick those wretched
-flowers out of that hat of yours, and let us see whether we cannot make
-you look less like a drowned rat.”
-
-“You have not broken up the skal, then?” said the Parson.
-
-“Oh, no! nothing like it; the rain came on late in the evening, and
-they could not have broken it up then if they wished, for the men would
-not have had time to go home, and might just as well make themselves
-comfortable where they were.”
-
-Comfortable! thought the Parson, shrugging his wet shoulders, and
-thinking of his own comforts during the night past.
-
-“And this morning,” continued the Captain, “the weather-wise say that the
-rain will not last; and as they have driven so much of the country, and
-fairly disturbed the game, the Ofwer Jagmästere sent for some brandy—not
-enough to make the men drunk, but as much as is good for them,—and they
-are to keep their fires burning and make all the noise they can, and so
-keep the game within the ring till the weather clears.”
-
-“And where did you hear all this?” said the Parson.
-
-“Oh, Birger is here,” said the Captain; “he came in about two hours ago,
-as wet as you are; he is asleep in the other tent. Did you not see a row
-of barked bushes as you came up?”
-
-“Yes,” said the Parson, “that I did, and I hailed them as the traveller
-did the gibbet,—the first mark of civilisation I had seen; but I cannot
-say that I understand what they mean.”
-
-“It was Birger’s plan,” said the Captain, “they have done it pretty
-continuously along the line of the dref; it is intended to look like a
-trap, and to prevent the game from coming up the pass during the rain,
-when we cannot trust to our rifles. We have had half-a-dozen wolves here
-last night; there is one of them,” pointing to a carcase which two of
-the men were skinning. “I was not ready for them, that is the truth,
-for I was eating my supper. I ought, certainly, to have had a brace of
-them, but this gentleman was a little in the rear of his party, and the
-Devil took the hindermost,—at least my little pea-rifle did. And there
-are a couple of foxes; Tom says their skins are valuable. I picked them
-off during the night. I am pretty sure we had a bear, too, early this
-morning; but he turned, whatever he was, before I could get a sight of
-him.”
-
-“No wonder, with that fire,” said the Parson.
-
-“Why, we do want to keep them in,” said the Captain; “besides, who is to
-do without a fire in such weather as this? There—had you not better go
-and make yourself comfortable. Jacob has brought your knapsack and cloak:
-you will find them there in the tent—(by-the-bye, what do you think of
-the use of tents now?) After that I suppose you will be ready for dinner?”
-
-“You may say that,” said the Parson; “it is little beside biscuit sopped
-in rain that we have had this day. Tom,” he shouted, “mind you take care
-of Torkel there; going without his grub is a serious thing to one of your
-country, and a still more serious thing going without his brandy.”
-
-“As for your wet clothes,” continued the Captain, “there is no help for
-that. Birger’s are much in the same mess, but we have a fire big enough
-to dry anything, if the rain would only hold off. In the meanwhile
-you must keep under canvas; those lug-sails of yours keep the wet out
-capitally. You see, I have used them for roof, and have built up walls to
-them with fir-branches and junipers.”
-
-“Upon my word,” said the Parson, “it is quite luxurious, and so is this
-dry flannel shirt—Heaven bless the man who invented flannel shirts,—I
-should have been dead with cold by this time, if I had been wearing a
-linen one. Hallo, Jacob! you look rather moist; what is the state of the
-larder?”
-
-Whatever the state of the larder was, the Captain had determined it
-should be a mystery, for he knew well that nothing unfits a man for
-subsequent work so much as a hearty meal after great fatigue upon little
-sustenance. As soon, therefore, as he heard that they had eaten little
-or nothing since their breakfast at the sœter on the preceding day, he
-gave a private sign to Jacob, and nothing whatever was forthcoming but a
-good strong basin of portable soup, smoking hot, with a couple of kahyt
-scorpor bobbing about in it; and, early as it was in the day—for it was
-not more than four in the afternoon,—the Parson was well satisfied to
-scoop out a bed in the dry moss of the tent, to draw his fur cloak over
-him, and to seek in sleep the rest which he needed quite as much as he
-did the food.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXV.
-
-THE WATCH FIRE.
-
- “Fire will be needful
- For him who enters
- With his knees frozen.
- Of meat and clothing
- Stands he in need
- Who journeys o’er mountains.
-
- “Water is needful,—
- A towel and kindness,
- For the guest’s welcome.
- Kind inclinations
- Let him experience;—
- Answer his questions.”
-
- _Hávamál._
-
-
-Sound and deep were the Parson’s slumbers, complete and absolute was
-his state of unconsciousness. Noises there were in the camp, no doubt,
-noises of every description: eight or ten people without any particular
-occupation, without any reason whatever for keeping silence—rather the
-reverse,—are apt to be noisy. But it was all one to him, the Seven
-Sleepers themselves could not have slept more soundly; and the next
-four or five hours were to him as though they had not been. His first
-perception of sublunary matters was awakened by the words of a well
-known air, which at first mingled with his dreams, and then presented
-themselves to his waking senses:—
-
- “O, never fear though rain be falling,—
- O, never fear the thunder dire,—
- O, never heed the wild wind’s calling,
- But gather closer round the fire.
- For thus it is, through storm and rain,
- The weary midnight hours must wane,
- Ere joyous morning comes again,
- And bids the gloom retire.”
-
-The Parson unrolled himself from his cloak and looked out; the night had
-fallen dark enough, and the rain, though it gave evident symptoms of
-having exhausted itself, was still falling, but scantily and sparingly.
-The mist was thicker and darker and blacker than ever; all, however, was
-bright light in the camp, for the bale-fires of Baldur could not have
-burnt more brightly than the watch-fires of the picket. The Captain had
-had plenty of spare hands and plenty of spare time, and had kept his men
-in work by collecting stores of fuel; besides which he had made use of
-an expedient which, common enough in winter camps, is seldom resorted to
-in summer. A full-grown pine, which seemed to have died of old age, and
-had dried up where it stood, was cut down; the head, already deprived of
-its branches by Time, was chopped off and laid alongside the butt, end
-for end, and the fires had been lighted on the top of these two pieces
-of timber. The interstice between them admitting the air from below,
-roared like a furnace, and blew up the bright flames on high; whilst the
-trunks themselves, which had speedily become ignited, contributed their
-own share to the general light and heat. There were several supplementary
-fires, for the great furnace was much too fierce for culinary operations;
-and the smoke from all these, pressed down, as it were, by the
-superincumbent mist, formed, by the reflection of the flames, a sort of
-luminous halo, beyond which it was impossible for eye to penetrate. Here
-and there fir branches were stuck into the ground to dry the clothes
-upon, for though the drizzle had not exactly ceased, the heat dried much
-faster than the rain moistened.
-
-Full in the blaze of light, and as near as he could approach to it
-without burning himself, stood Birger; his neat little figure just as
-tidy, and just as carefully dressed, as if there had been no such thing
-as falling rain, or wet juniper, or prickly brambles in the world. He
-was standing with his back to the fire, and his hands in the pockets of
-his shooting-jacket, watching the preparations for a late supper, and
-singing, at the full pitch of a very powerful voice, the magic words
-which had recalled the Parson to a state of consciousness. The Captain,
-who had evidently been furbishing up with fresh chalk the “S. F.” on
-his cap, which looked quite white and new, notwithstanding the rain, had
-just returned from visiting his sentries, and was examining the lock
-of his American rifle, which he had carried with him, to see if it had
-sustained any damage from the wet. Jacob, and his attendant imps, were
-emerging from behind the flames with the everlasting black kettle, which
-was accompanied this time by a pile of steaks, cut from some mysterious
-animal, and served up on the splash-board of one of the carioles, by way
-of dish.
-
-“Halloo! Birger,” said the Parson; “you here! Rather a change in the
-general aspect of affairs since we parted last!”
-
-“You may well say that; I never saw such a determined day’s rain; I
-thought the twilight of the gods was come in real earnest.”
-
-“To judge from the fire that you have got up,” said the Parson, emerging
-from the tent, “you seem inclined to realize the old prophecy, that that
-twilight is to finish off by a general conflagration.”
-
-“You need not cast inquiring glances at me,” said Birger to the Captain,
-who, having satisfied himself about the state of his weapons, was trying
-to make out the allusion. “I am not going to tell you that long story
-now. The gods themselves, if we may trust the high song of Odin, used to
-take off the edge of their hunger, and thirst, too,—for they were thirsty
-souls,—before they called on Bragi, the god of minstrelsy, to sing even
-their own deeds. And, to tell you the truth, to say nothing of my being
-as hungry as a hunter, these steaks are most magnificent, and this kettle
-unusually savoury.”
-
-“What have you got in it?” said the Parson.
-
-“Andhrimnir cooks Sahrimnir in Eldhrimnir,” replied Birger, quoting from
-the cookery of the prose Edda. “Do you not see Odin has sent us a present
-of heavenly meat from Valhalla?”
-
-“Nonsense! what is the meat of Valhalla called here on earth?”
-
-“Goat’s flesh,” said Birger, demurely.
-
-“Humph!” said the Parson, turning over, with his crimping knife, a bone
-almost big enough to have belonged to a small ox; “and this is a goat’s
-rib, is it?”
-
-“Valhalla was always remarkable for its breed of goats,” said Birger:
-“but never you mind what rib it is, there’s a biscuit to eat with it,
-that is all you need care about, just now. I am afraid our host, the
-Skalfogdar” (bowing to the Captain), “cannot find you any currant jelly
-to eat with it.”
-
-“I can find you some cranberry jelly, though,” said the Captain, “which
-is a much better thing, and much more characteristic of the country.
-Here, Jacob, hand me that mess-tin, will you. The very first thing I did,
-after reconnoitring my post, was to lay in a store of these cranberries,
-and to make them into jelly. I had not to go far for them. You would not
-like them in the Swedish fashion—pickled,—would you? I think the men have
-got some which they have made for themselves.”
-
-“Thank you, yes; and a little of the forbidden stuff, too, to wash it
-down with. Never mind the water, Piersen, I have taken my share of that
-already.”
-
-Here Jacob made his appearance, with four or five orre grouse, spitted
-upon a strip of fir;—Jacob piqued himself on his fjeld cuisine, and
-really did serve up his dinners admirably. The whole was concluded with
-split grayling, by way of cheese, for being north of the Wener Sjön, they
-were in the grayling country,—a circumstance which the Captain, whose
-post was not a mile from the river, had not been slow to profit by;—on
-the sunny morning of the preceding day, he had caught them by dozens.
-The grayling, which are seldom caught in Norway, where the rivers are
-mostly too rough for such tender fish, abound throughout the whole north
-of Sweden, and are worth anything to the fisherman; they render his
-chances of sport, as well as of provisions, very much less precarious,
-because they do everything which trout do not; they are stationary
-when—in Sweden, at all events—the trout is migratory; they come into
-high season when the trout are going out; they will not rise in a stormy
-day, which the trout loves; but, when the sun is bright and the wind is
-low, and not a ripple curls the surface, and not a trout stirs beneath
-it, the swift, shadow-like grayling dot it with their rises like so many
-hail-stones. They are very good eating, too, when dressed in any way man
-can devise; but a very excellent method, and a very common method in
-Sweden, is to split them down the back, pepper them well, and dry them in
-the hot sun before broiling them, or making them into plok-fiske. This
-Jacob was unable to do on the present occasion, for the rain had been
-falling from the time of the Captain’s return from the river; so he had
-substituted for the sun that which was scarcely less hot—the Captain’s
-blazing fire; and his imitation was unanimously pronounced to have
-exceeded the original.
-
-“I do not think I should have fared like this at any of the farm houses,”
-said the Parson, stretching himself at full length on his cloak and
-basking at the fire, for the rain had now entirely ceased, and the
-bivouac began to look home-like and comfortable. “I must say it required
-a pretty firm determination to keep steadily onward, with soaked clothes
-and chilled bones and empty stomachs, such as we had this morning. I was
-sorely tempted to make for shelter; but I set before me the comforts of
-persevering, and I am very glad I did so. To say nothing of your company
-and Jacob’s dinner, this glorious blaze is far better than a farm-house
-stove, and my old cloak than a dirty sheep-skin. Well, virtue is its own
-reward. Jacob, fill the pot with hot water, and let us have a few embers
-here to keep it warm. Have you got any sugar?”
-
-“There is nothing your countrymen are so remarkable for,” said
-Birger, “as a steady, resolute perseverance against difficulties and
-discouragements.”
-
-“Pluck?” suggested the Captain.
-
-“Yes, Pluck! you did not know when you were beaten at Waterloo, and so
-you won the battle; Wellington would have got an army of Englishmen out
-of the scrape of Moscow, if he had ever been ass enough to get them into
-it.”
-
-“I think,” said the Parson, “that this may be traced to a national
-peculiarity of ours—love of adventure. Other men will undergo hardships
-and incur dangers, in search of gain, or even in the pursuit of some
-definite object, but the Englishman seeks his hardships for the pleasure
-of undergoing them,—courts his dangers for the pleasure of surmounting
-them, and follows out his adventure for adventure’s sake.”
-
-“In fact,” said the Captain, “he does just what we are all doing now.”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “and let no one say—what is the use of it?—what is
-the Englishman the better for diving into mines, and scaling mountains,
-and crossing deserts?—what has he to show for it? He has this to show
-for it,—a manliness of character,—a spirit to encounter the dangers of
-life, and a heart to overcome its difficulties. Depend upon it, while
-your aristocracy—men brought up and nourished in the very lap of luxury
-and ease—seek their pleasures in the dangers of the wild ocean, or the
-hardships of the stormy mountain-side, you will see no symptoms of
-degeneracy in the hardihood and manliness of your national character.
-Pluck is a genuine English word, slang though it be.”
-
-“I think you may translate it into Swedish,” said the Captain, “for our
-English blood has a cross of Scandinavian in it, and there really is as
-great a similarity in our national characteristics as there is in the
-structure of our languages.”
-
-“I think,” said the Parson, “your word ‘Mod’ implies pluck, with a dash
-of fierceness in it. When it is said of some grand berserkar, ‘har
-oprist syn mod,’ it means that he has summoned his pluck, with the full
-intention of making his enemies aware of that fact. Still, however, it is
-a fair rendering of our more peaceable word, and you have a right to it;
-but I am quite sure you cannot translate that expression into any other
-language under the sun, without losing some part of its force.”
-
-“Whether any foreigners can translate the word into their own language,”
-said the Captain, “is more than I will undertake to say, but they
-perfectly understand and appreciate this peculiarity of our English
-character. Last year I was arranging with one of the Chamouny guides an
-expedition into the higher Alps; I had with me a jolly talking little
-French marquis, whom I had picked up at St. Gervais. He was an ambitious
-little fellow, and volunteered—Heaven help him!—to be my companion.
-My guide—(you recollect old Couttet, Parson?)—looked rather blank at
-this, and taking me aside, said in a low voice, ‘_absolument je n’irais
-pas avec ce Monsieur lá_.’ ‘Why?’ said I, rather astonished at the man
-refusing that which would certainly have put some additional francs into
-his pocket. ‘_Je connais bien ces Francais_,’ said he—‘an Englishman
-is fearful enough in the valleys, always saying he will not do this,
-and he cannot do that, because in truth he is so proud that he does not
-like to take anything in hand and be beat in it; but once get him on the
-mountain, and fairly in for it, and be the danger what it may, he faces
-it, and be the fatigue what it may, he keeps up a good heart, and in the
-end gets through it all as well as we do ourselves. Your Frenchman is as
-bold as brass in the valleys, and does not do badly for a spurt if he
-thinks people are admiring him, but he gets cowed when danger comes and
-no one to see him, and sits down and dies when he is tired.’”
-
-“Mr. Couttet was a sensible fellow, and knew his man,” said Birger, who,
-descended from the old aristocracy of Sweden, hated and despised the
-French party most cordially; “and how did you get rid of your travelling
-companion?”
-
-“O! Couttet took the management of that upon his own hands; he made
-the poor little marquis’s hair stand on end, with all sorts of stories
-about snow storms, and whirlwinds, and frozen travellers; which no doubt
-were true enough, for there is not a pass in the High Alps without
-its well-authenticated tale of death; so the little fellow came to me
-heartily ashamed of himself, and looking like a dog that was going to be
-whipped, with his ‘mille excuses,’ and so forth, and in fact, we then and
-there parted company, and I have not seen him from that time to this. He
-certainly was rather an ambitious Tom Thumb for the Col du Géant.—Hallo!
-there is something on foot there,” said he, interrupting himself, “hark
-to that! there goes another.” And in fact, three or four shots not very
-distant from them were distinctly heard, though they came, not sharp
-and ringing as such sounds generally strike upon the ear through the
-clear air of the north, but deadened by the mist, as if, so to speak,
-the sound had been smothered by a feather-bed. “There goes another! and
-another!” then came a whole platoon—“O, by George! I must go and visit my
-sentries.”
-
-“All nonsense,” said Birger, “one fellow fires at a rustling
-leaf, and then all the rest crack off their pieces, by the way of
-follow-the-leader; you may just as well make yourself comfortable,”
-drawing his cloak round him by way of suiting the action to the word.
-“Hand me over the bottle, Jacob! some more hot water in the pot!”
-
-“I shall go, however,” said the Captain, who was young at picket work,
-and proportionably anxious; so shouldering his rifle, and calling to Tom,
-his corporal and interpreter, he disappeared into the outer darkness,
-while his friends settled themselves more comfortably in their cloaks,
-and threw half a dozen additional, not to say superfluous, logs into the
-glorious blaze.
-
-The dispositions at the foot of the pass had been made with great
-judgment; the object was, if possible, to prevent anything from passing
-during the night, but at any rate to arrange matters so that nothing
-should pass without being seen.
-
-For this purpose a pretty large fire was lighted so near to the
-perpendicular part of the rock that nothing would be likely to go behind
-it, the shrubs of course being cleared away from its vicinity; and on the
-opposite side of the passage was a little sentry-box of fir branches,
-under which sat two Swedes, with directions to let fly at anything that
-crossed between them and the fire; so that if they missed, as most likely
-they would, the picket above might at least be prepared.
-
-The men, who had been excited by the firing, were sharp as needles, and
-indeed, were not very far from letting fly at their own commander, but
-they had seen nothing that they could be very certain about, though of
-course their imaginations were full of half the beasts in Noah’s Ark; and
-so, after straining his eyes into the thick darkness for half an hour
-or more, the Captain heaped fresh fuel on the fire, recommended a sharp
-look-out, returned slowly up the pass, and was well laughed at for his
-pains as he resumed his seat by the blazing tree.
-
-“By the way, Birger, what is that story that you and the Parson were
-alluding to just before dinner, I hope you have eaten and drank enough by
-this time to qualify you for relating it.”
-
-“What, the twilight of the gods? the Ragnarök, as the Edda calls it; that
-is not a story, it is a bit of heathenism.”
-
-“It seems to me,” said the Captain, “that you Swedes keep your heathenism
-a great deal better than you do your Christianity.”
-
-“The Norwegians do, certainly,” said Birger, “the fact is, their
-conversion was effected by force of arms, rather than by force of
-argument; the party of Olaf the Christian was stronger than the party of
-Hakon the heathen, so they killed and converted, and the people became
-Christians, and very appropriately adopted the saint’s battle-axe for
-their national emblem. As for their Reformation, that was simply an order
-from a despotic court, not resisted, only because the people did not care
-much about the matter. ‘It will not make herrings dear,’ was the popular
-remark on the subject. The creed of Odin was the only religion that they
-were in earnest about, and that is why the legends that they cling to,
-are, nine times in ten, heathen rather than Christian.”
-
-“I think I have read that story about the herrings in Geijer, but applied
-to a different nation,” said the Parson; “it will not do for you Swedes
-to be throwing stones at Norway, in the matter of that Reformation; your
-original conversion by St. Ansgar, was a good deal more creditable than
-theirs, but your Reformation was simply the party of Gustaf stronger than
-the party of Christiern—you reformed your Church because you wanted to
-dissolve the union of Kalmar.”
-
-“What do you say about your own Reformation?” said Birger.
-
-“That it has nothing to do with the twilight of the gods, which the
-Captain wants to hear about—tell us what you Swedes believe about that.”
-
-“Why, we Swedes do not believe in it at all; it is not like the legends
-of the Walpurgis Night, or the death of Baldur, which are annually kept
-alive by the change of seasons which they commemorate. This legend
-has lost its hold on the popular mind; but it is a curious theory,
-notwithstanding, because it contains evident traces of a revelation
-corrupted, because disjoined from that people to whose guardianship had
-been committed the oracles of Divine Truth. In the twilight of the gods
-may be clearly traced a representation of the end of the world, such as
-is revealed to us:—a fierce winter, the most terrible natural affliction
-to the northern mind, is to usher it in; then comes the general falling
-away, which we are ourselves taught to expect.[57]
-
-“The sun and the moon are to be devoured by the wolves, that have
-been continually pursuing them ever since creation, and every now and
-then, by seizing them, have caused eclipses; the stars fall, the earth
-quakes so that the trees are shaken from their roots, and the mountains
-totter;—then the Midgard Serpent turns on its ocean bed, and an immense
-wave rushes over the land, upon which floats the phantom ship, Naglfar,
-which is built of the nails of dead men—the wolf, Fenrir, together with
-the midgard serpent,—both of them the offspring of Loki, the Principle
-of Evil,—which hitherto have been chained down by the Æsir, are now
-permitted to break loose; the heavens are cleft in twain, and the sons
-of Muspell, the Band of Brightness, headed by Surtur the Avenger, ride
-through the breach, and advance by the bridge of Bifrost which bursts
-asunder beneath them. For the time the Avengers join their bright bands
-with Loki and the Children of Darkness, and advance to the battle-field
-of Vigrid, where the destinies of the world are to be decided.
-
-“In the mean while the gods are fully prepared; Heimdall, the Warder
-of Heaven, has sounded the Horn Gjallar, and the gods assemble in
-council;—Valhalla pours out from its five hundred and forty gates its
-hosts of heroes; these, which are the men who have been slain in battle
-from the beginning of the world, and ever since have been trained by
-daily tournaments for this very purpose, are eager for the combat; and
-Odin, having previously ridden over for the last time to the Well of
-Mimir, and consulted the Norna, marshalls his hosts on the field of
-Vigrid; loud and desperate is the battle, the Powers of Evil fall one by
-one before the gods, but very few of these survive the conflict. Thor,
-having killed the Midgard Serpent, falls exhausted with his efforts and
-dies; Frey, who has parted with the sword of victory, falls before the
-avenger, Surtur; Loki and Heimdall engage in battle and mortally wound
-each other; Odin himself is swallowed up by the wolf Fenrir, which is
-instantly destroyed by Vidar; and last of all, Tyr, the God of Victory,
-falls in the very act of overcoming the dog Garm.
-
-“Surtur the Avenger, having now no opponent, sets the earth and the
-heavens on fire with his excessive brightness, and the whole race of men
-is consumed, with the exception of certain chosen individuals who lie
-hid and protected in the forest of Hodmimir. Then Surtur himself retires
-before Vidar, the God of Silence, who, calling to him Modi and Magni
-(Courage and Might) the sons of Thor (Violence), and summoning Baldur
-(Innocence) from the realms of Hela (Night or Invisibility), founds a new
-heaven and a new earth, and a new race of inhabitants, and they dwell on
-the plains of Ida (perpetual youth), where Asgard formerly stood, and
-their descendants shall spread over the new earth, which shall be lighted
-by a new sun.
-
- “‘The radiant sun
- A daughter bears
- Ere Fenrir takes her;—
- On her mother’s course
- Shall ride that maid
- When the gods have perished.’
-
-“And now, to quote the conclusion of the Prose Edda, ‘If thou hast any
-further questions to ask, I know not who can answer thee, for I never
-heard tell of any one who could relate what will happen in the other ages
-of the world. Make, therefore, the best use thou canst of what has been
-imparted to thee.’”
-
-“Why,” said the Captain, “this is Revelation!”
-
-“To be sure it is,” said the Parson; “and my wonder is not that so much
-of revealed truth should have been corrupted, but that so much should
-have been preserved. There is no occasion for the sneers of those who
-say that in the conversion of Scandinavia, St. Ansgar merely substituted
-Valentine for Vali, St. Philip for Iduna, and our Lord for Baldur. He
-had, in truth, little to teach his converts beyond explaining allegories,
-and shewing them that their religion was only a mild, yet tolerably
-faithful type of that which was actually true,—that Thor and Odin
-were attributes, not persons, and that Asgard and Gimli, and Hela and
-Nifleheim, were states and conditions, not places.”
-
-It must not be supposed that this conversation had been continued
-altogether without interruption. Shots had from time to time rung through
-the night-air; some faintly and from great distances; some, as it would
-seem, within a few hundred yards of them; there was evidently something
-restless in the circle of the skal, but their own sentries gave no
-notice, and the ear becoming accustomed to such noises, the shots had of
-late been little regarded.
-
-One moment, however, changed the whole aspect of affairs, and recalled
-the thoughts of the party from the heights of Asgard to the affairs of
-middle earth.
-
-A shot from the foot of the pass; then another! “Hjortarne! hjortarne!”
-(the stags! the stags!) roared out the sentries.
-
-The Captain sprang into a dark corner, bringing the whole blaze before
-him, and cocked his rifle. Then came a sound like a troop of horse
-at full gallop—a rush!—a charge! Jacob flying into the arms of the
-sportsmen, his coffee pot scattering around its fragrant contents,—dark
-forms bounding across the bright spot of light, scattering the men,
-and the wet clothes, and the cookery, and the crockery! A crack from
-the Captain’s rifle! a crash! and the whole scene passed away like an
-illusion, leaving the circle tenantless, in the midst of which the great
-fire was blazing away as quietly and peaceably as if nothing unusual had
-ever been illumined by its light.
-
-“By the Thousand! that shot told somewhere,” said Birger, picking himself
-up. “By George, it is Jacob! poor devil! Well, I am sorry for him, the
-old scoundrel.”
-
-But Jacob, when he could be brought to his senses, could not find out
-that he had been wounded at all, though his great unwieldy frock-coat
-was split up the back, and the tails rolled in some unaccountable way
-round his head. His ideas, which were never peculiarly bright, had got
-completely bewildered, and nothing could convince him that a legion of
-Trolls had not been making a ball-room of his ample back.
-
-“It was not Jacob I fired at,” said the Captain, quietly reloading his
-rifle; “take a pine knot, and look a little further up the pass; I
-suspect you will find something more valuable than our fat friend. Oh,
-that’s it!” as a loud shout was heard; “I thought it could not be far
-off,—bring him into the light.”
-
-Birger repeated the command in Swedish, and presently three or four of
-the men emerged from the outer darkness, bearing, with some difficulty,
-an enormous elk, the patriarch of the forest.
-
-“Well done,” said Birger; “capital shot! Here! Tom, Torkel, out with your
-knives, and off with the skin; do not think twice about it. Ten to one
-we shall have Moodie here; he will not mind his own people much, but he
-knows that we are not in the habit of firing into the air, and he will be
-coming to see what has been disturbing the camp all night. There, look
-sharp! never mind a tear or two; make that beast into goat’s flesh as
-soon as you can. Cut off the head at once, you cannot disguise the horns!”
-
-“Well, but what if Moodie does see it?” said the Parson.
-
-“Why,” said the Captain, “Birger is quite right. Moodie is in command,
-and he would consider it his duty to report us; and besides, I will
-answer for it he would jump at the chance of playing Brutus, and delating
-his own friends. There was a good deal of significance in the way he
-cautioned us that elks and red-deer were strictly preserved. It is a
-fact, too, that with all that immense range of royal forest at his
-undivided command, he has never shot a stag or an elk yet. He considers
-himself on honour, and behaves like a gentleman and a kammerjunker, as he
-is.”[58]
-
-“He is the only man in Sweden who does, then,” said Birger. “I will
-engage for it. Bjornstjerna, Hof Ofwer Jagmästere, as he writes himself,
-never loses a chance if he can get one on the sly. By the way, how nicely
-the mist has cleared off, without any one seeing it. Positively I can see
-the stars again. I told you it would be so:—
-
- “Through storm and rain,
- The weary midnight hours must wane,
- Ere joyous morning come again,
- And bid the gloom retire.”
-
-“I wish I could take you up to our day look-out place,” said the Captain;
-“we should have a good view of the watch-fires from it now. I stood there
-for an hour together on the first night, looking at the fires of the
-hållet; and by this time the dref must have come quite near enough for us
-to see them too.”
-
-“Well,” said Birger, “come along! I think I know the way,—it is the path
-I came down by this morning, is it not?”
-
-“Yes it is, but it will never do on a dark night like this; it is not
-over-safe by day, and there are shreds of the mist hanging about us
-still. We want light for that path.”
-
-“And light you shall have,” said Birger. “Here, Tom, split me this
-fir-root, it is as full of turpentine as it can hold. There,” continued
-he, thrusting the end of one of the slips into the blaze, and striking up
-the song of the Dalecarlian miners:—
-
- “‘Brother, kindle thy bright light,
- For here below ’tis dark as night;
- Gloomy may be on earth thy way,
- But light and good shall make it day.’
-
-“Now then, I think we start by this ledge; light another of these
-pine-slips, Tom, and bring the whole bundle with you.”
-
-The path was not altogether a safe one, certainly, for it was a narrow
-ledge, winding round the face of the cliff that formed the northern side
-of the pass, and leading to a sort of promontory which jutted forward
-somewhat in advance of the range; but there were plenty of branches to
-hold on by, and there was no real danger as long as there was light
-enough to see where to place the feet; and when they had got fairly out
-of the range of their own enormous fire, the stars were glimmering, and
-the night was not, after all, so very dark. A withered ash, the bare
-trunk of which stretched out horizontally, like a finger-post, from the
-extreme point, was their look-out, and bore the strip of calico, once
-white, but now sullied and dishonoured by twenty-four hours of continuous
-rain, which marked the position of their picket.
-
-The look-out commanded completely the position of the hållet, the
-encampment of which was placed among some straggling copse that feathered
-the reverse slope of the spur of rock which connected the range of
-hills with the rapids and falls of the river. Among this bushwood were
-scattered, irregularly, the cooking and sleeping fires, glancing every
-now and then on the huts of boughs and other temporary shelter which had
-been run up to protect the men from the wet, while, on the bare crest
-of the spur, which had been entirely denuded of what little timber it
-possessed, was a line of fifty watch-fires, one to each skalfogde’s
-command; each of these had its stoker, who from time to time replenished
-its blaze with fresh logs,—and its sentry, who, sitting or lying in
-some dark recess, was to fire at everything that came within the circle
-of the light. Everything betokened extreme watchfulness; not a fire
-burnt dim,—black figures were continually passing and repassing before
-them,—and every now and then a straggling shot waked up the echoes, and
-kept the whole line in a state of continual agitation.
-
-The dref, which had advanced a little during the day, was still five or
-six miles off, and their fires, which formed a vast semicircle, were,
-for the most part, hidden by the trees; but a hazy and continuous line
-of misty light defined the whole position, tinging the very sky with
-redness, so that the receding skirts of the mist looked luminous, like a
-terrestrial aurora borealis.
-
-While they yet gazed, the tree tops, which, beyond the reflection of the
-fires, had hitherto been one unbroken sea of blackness, came gradually
-into view: first the spiry tops of the firs, then the rounder and softer
-outlines of the birch and ash, grew more and more defined; then the
-character of the foliage became distinguishable,—the glaucous white of
-the poplar and the fringiness of the ash and rowan: then a soft pale
-light, interspersed with deep broad shadows, was cast over the scene,
-slightly dimming the glow of the watch-fires, and contrasting strangely
-with their yellow light; and then the half moon rose up from the cliffs
-behind them, illuminating the distant landscape, but bringing that
-immediately beneath their feet into blacker and darker shade.
-
-“Your friend Bjornstjerna is a plucky fellow,—that I will say for him;
-most men would have turned tail at such a drench of rain as we have had;
-and now virtue promises to be its own reward—we shall have a glorious day
-to-morrow.”
-
-“I think we shall,” said Birger,—“indeed, I am sure we shall, as far as
-the weather is concerned; but I am afraid that will not prevent us from
-suffering some loss by what we have had already. You may depend on it
-every beast within our circle has gone the rounds and tried the weak
-points of it,—some have escaped, at all events. The wolves last night,
-and the stags just now, have forced the passage with very little loss;
-and certainly ours is not the most unguarded spot in the line.”
-
-“By George! Birger! that shot is from our post!”
-
-“Not a doubt of that;—and there’s another! Wait a bit, it may be nothing
-after all.”
-
-“O! but it is something!” said the Captain, in an agony, as three or four
-more shots rang from the out-post itself, followed by confused cries and
-shouts, as if men were engaged in mortal conflict.
-
-The Captain threw himself on the steep descent, the whole of which he
-would have accomplished very much quicker than was at all salutary for
-his bones, had not Birger caught him by the collar as he was disappearing.
-
-“For God’s sake, mind what you are about! Take a torch in your hand, if
-you must go; or, better still, let Tom go first. Whatever it is, the
-thing must be over long before you can get there. All you will do at that
-headlong speed will be to break your neck down the precipice!”
-
-Tom, much more cool, had already taken the lead, and was throwing a light
-on the narrow and broken pathway for the Captain to see where to place
-his footsteps. Birger’s selection of Tom for a leader was a good one,
-for it was absolutely impossible for one man to pass another during the
-descent, and no threats or entreaties from the Captain could urge the
-phlegmatic Norwegian beyond the bounds of strict prudence. The last ten
-feet of the rock the Captain leaped, and pounced down from above into the
-midst of the picket.
-
-Before the great fire lay a full-grown bear, dead, and bleeding from a
-dozen wounds, and round him were grouped the whole picket—including the
-sentries, who had deserted their posts,—whooping, and hallooing, and
-screaming, and making all sorts of unintelligible noises.
-
-The story was soon told, when the men had been reduced to something like
-order. The bear had been attempting to steal past the first fire, and,
-sidling away from it, had almost run over the two sentries, who were
-much too frightened to fire with any aim or effect. The bear, almost as
-frightened as they, had rushed forward, but, startled at the great blaze
-upon which he came suddenly at the turn of the pass, hesitated a moment,
-and received Torkel’s spear in his breast. The rifles and guns, which
-were lying about, were caught up and discharged indiscriminately, and,
-as luck would have it, without taking effect on any of the party. Some
-rushed on with their axes, some with knives, some with blazing brands;
-and the bear dropped down among them, mobbed to death, every individual
-of the party being firmly convinced that it was he, and none but he, who
-had struck the victor stroke.
-
-“Well!” said Birger, “there is the bear, at all events; and a good thing
-for us that he is there; we should not have heard the last of it from
-Moodie for some time, if he had slipped off. Hang him up, my men; we will
-skin him when we have time and daylight; we do not want to make goat’s
-meat of that fellow, at all events. Hang him up openly, by the side of
-the wolf.”
-
-“Bother that moon,” said the Captain, sulkily, for he did not enter into
-the spirit of ‘_quod facit per alium facit per se_.’ “What a set of
-lunatics we were to go staring after the picturesque instead of minding
-our business; all of us together, too!”
-
-“It was very poetical,” said the Parson.
-
-“Yes, that is the very thing. Birger, you do not take in the allusion, I
-can see—a ‘grāte powut,’ as they pronounce it, is, in Ireland, slang for
-an irrecoverable fool.”
-
-“Well! well!” said Birger, laughing,—for, being an old bear-hunter, he
-was not jealous, and could afford to laugh,—“we have not got to the
-higher flights of poetry yet, and we will take good care not to leave our
-posts again. As for you, Captain, _pends-toi, brave Crillon, nous nous
-sommes combattus à Arcques et tu n’y étais pas_. However, I think we had
-better get a little sleep, those who can, for the chances are we shall
-want steady nerves to-morrow.”
-
-So, sending back the sentries to their posts, the whole party, with their
-weapons by their sides, and everything ready for a sudden emergency,
-rolled themselves up in their cloaks, with their feet to the fire, one of
-them (taking it by turns of an hour each) walking up and down, rifle in
-hand, within the circle of its light.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVI.
-
-BEATING OUT THE SKAL.
-
- “Now the hunting train is ready. Hark, away! By dale and height
- Horns are sounding,—hawks ascending up to Odin’s halls of light.
- Terror-struck, the wild-wood creatures seek their dens ’mid woods and
- reeds;
- While, with spear advanced pursuing, she, the air Valkyria speeds.”
-
- _Frithi of Tegner._
-
-
-“Hillo, Moodie! what news?” said the Captain; “have a cup of coffee and
-a—a—chop,” as that individual strode down the pass from the side farthest
-removed from the skal looking—as, indeed, was very nearly the case—as if
-he had neither trimmed his beard nor washed his face since the beginning
-of the campaign.
-
-“Why, the news is, that you had better look out sharp, if you mean to
-do credit to my recommendation. I had a message from Bjornstjerna last
-night, that he meant to get the dref in motion an hour before sunrise, so
-as to beat out, and give the men time to get home before evening; they
-must have been advancing for these two hours; our people have heard their
-shouts distinctly enough, and I only wonder we have had no game yet.
-Capital mutton chops, these,” he added; “who is your butcher?”
-
-“O, we are pretty good foragers,” said the Captain, carelessly, but at
-the same time casting an anxious glance round the encampment, to see
-whether there were any tell-tale horns or hoofs lurking about. “Terrible
-weather yesterday, was not it?”
-
-“Upon my word, it was as much as I could do to keep the men at their
-posts; I have got one or two skulkers down in the Länsman’s books, but
-I do not think I can have the conscience to inflict the fine; I had
-half a mind to skulk myself;—we must do it, though, in justice to the
-honest fellows who braved the weather. I think the best man I have is
-a woman; she did more service in shaming the men and keeping them to
-their duty than a dozen of us. I had occasion to degrade a skalfogde
-for drunkenness, and I promoted her into the vacancy on the spot. How
-the men laughed: they call her some Swedish equivalent to the ‘Dashing
-White Serjeant,’—and I only wish I had a dozen white serjeants instead
-of one. But what have you done here in the shooting way? I heard a good
-deal of firing last night from your post; you have made yourselves pretty
-comfortable, at all events.”
-
-“It is a way we have in the army,” said the Parson. “There is our
-_spoliarium_, however,” pointing to a group of carcasses that were
-hanging to the lower branches of a fir,—“one bear, two wolves,
-five foxes, a lot of hares, and”—here the Captain plucked his
-sleeve,—“and—that is all, besides a young bear which I killed in the
-fjeld as I came along.”
-
-“Oh come! that is not so bad; and that bear is a glorious fellow! who
-killed him?”
-
-“Why, we cannot justly say,” replied the Captain, sheepishly: “the fact
-is, he made a charge upon the picket, and it took a good many hands
-to quiet him,—you may see that by the gashes; I am afraid the skin is
-terribly injured.”
-
-“What a mercenary dog you are; these are honourable scars, which, while
-they impair the beauty, only enhance the value;—every cut is the memorial
-of a gallant deed.”
-
-Whether the Captain,—who was vehemently anxious to kill a bear to his own
-hand, and whose conscience upbraided him bitterly for his last night’s
-dereliction of duty,—coincided in this sentiment, might be doubted;
-at all events, he made no attempt to remove the doubt by indiscreet
-confessions, and was only too glad to shift the subject, lest any
-untimely observation from his companions or attendants might reveal the
-true state of the case.
-
-“What have you done yourself?” said he; “I am sure your people must
-have fired twenty shots for our one; I thought you were having a mock
-skirmish, at one time.”
-
-“O, those people fire at anything or nothing, just for the sake of making
-a noise. We have got a good many wolves and foxes, though, and a rascally
-lynx or two; but we have not been so fortunate as you with the bears;
-though I am clear we saw two or three during the night. I am sorry to
-say that there were three or four stags killed, and I do not know what
-to do about it. There was a herd last night very restless; it had tried
-our line at several points. I had given strict orders to let them pass,
-but they always got headed back, somehow,—in fact, the men fired at them,
-that is the truth of it, and the skalfogdar say they could not prevent
-them. This morning, as many as three were brought in dead, and I am sure
-I do not see how I am to identify the men who fired; they were firing all
-night, and every skalfogde stoutly denies that his party had anything to
-do with it.”
-
-“Oh! how were the people to distinguish one beast from another in the
-dark?” said the Captain; “you may be thankful they have not shot one
-another, and that you have not had three or four peasants brought in this
-morning, instead of three or four deer.”
-
-“Upon my word, there would have been less said if it had been so.
-However, I must report it to Bjornstjerna, and leave him to do what he
-pleases. I strongly suspect my dashing white serjeant of being one of the
-murderers. Give me another chop,—that mutton of yours is the very best
-thing I have eaten since we left Gäddebäck,—and then you really must get
-to your posts; we shall have the dref down upon us before we know where
-we are. Several hares had been showing themselves, and trying to pass the
-line before I came up, and they will not do that by daytime, unless they
-are driven. You had better break up the encampment as soon as you have
-done breakfast: let Jacob stow everything ready for moving, and then send
-him off to have the carioles harnessed. The skal will break up before
-noon, and then there will be such a rush of fellows wanting to get home,
-that the chances are we shall have a Flemish account of our horses, if
-we do not look sharp after them now. People are in no ways particular on
-these occasions; there are so many of them, that it is difficult to fix
-the blame anywhere, and all roguery goes down to the account of mistake
-and confusion.”
-
-“Very well,” said the Captain, jumping up and carefully loading the rifle
-which Tom had just been cleaning from the effects of the night’s dews
-and rain, while the shot-gun had been doing duty in its place by the
-Captain’s side,—“then here goes; I am going to the foot of the pass, and
-shall not want Tom this half hour, so he may help Jacob. Birger is going
-to the look-out place, and he will not want his man either. What will you
-do, Parson?”
-
-“Why, I think I will take a turn with Moodie down the hållet, when he
-goes back to inspect his posts. I shall want Torkel to carry my rifle, as
-I may not come back here; but your two men will be enough to help Jacob.
-How are we to carry these great beasts?”
-
-“Oh, that is Bjornstjerna’s business. I dare say he has given orders for
-a sufficient number of carts, or, at all events, we shall have men enough
-to carry them when the skal breaks up. These are public property,—you
-need not trouble yourselves about them; what we have to think about is
-our own little belongings.”
-
-“Public property!” said the Captain; “I did not bargain for that; I want
-the skins to hang up in my paternal halls, as trophies of the battle.”
-
-“Then you must buy them,” said Moodie; “there will be an auction up the
-village as soon as the skal breaks up, and by offering a little more
-than the market price, you may secure anything that you want. It really
-is a very fair regulation,” he added, observing a shade of discontent
-on the Captain’s brow. “You shot them, no doubt; but you could not have
-got a shot at them at all if it had not been for these people driving
-them. Properly speaking, they belong to Bjornstjerna, but I understand
-he has given up his right to the men, if so, they will all be converted
-into brandy before night-fall, you may be quite sure. However, come
-along,—that last volley was from the dref, and it sounded quite close.”
-
-Moodie’s path was by no means either easy or safe, for he carefully
-avoided the straight road which would have led him across the shooting
-line, and contriving to make a circuit and scramble down the face of the
-cliff at a small fissure, which lay a quarter of a mile to the north
-of the pass, he attained the rear of the hållet without disturbing
-or tainting the ground. It may be observed, that there was no such
-extreme necessity for all this precaution; but Moodie was, after all,
-an Englishman, and a hunter of but four years’ standing, and, if he
-was the least bit in the world a martinet, he was not altogether
-without excuse,—and really his position was, it must be confessed, very
-scientifically occupied.
-
-At the time that he and the Parson came on the ground, the hållet was
-just relieving guard, in order to give the morning watch an opportunity
-of breakfasting before the general turn out; and the scene was extremely
-picturesque.
-
-The breakfast was an extempore affair enough, except among those parties
-who had been so fortunate as to knock a hare on the head, or to secure a
-joint of what Moodie turned his face away from, and the Captain persisted
-in calling mutton. A little rye meal, mixed up cold, or in special cases,
-when kettles could be had, made into stirabout, was very nearly the whole
-of it. An older commander would have closed his eyes to the sight of
-brandy, and his nose to the smell of aniseed, but Moodie was young, and
-faithful to his trust.
-
-Groups of men and women were collected round the fires for cooking,
-some rubbing up firearms, some snapping and oiling obstinate locks and
-picking touchholes which the wet had damaged, and drying powder which
-either would not go off at all or else flashed in the eyes and singed
-the hair and eyebrows of the operators. Gradually, however, they all
-began to straggle into their line, for the sounds of the dref were more
-and more audible, and now and then some scared and crouching beast would
-show itself on the side of the hill, and after drawing upon itself the
-fire of all who were within a quarter of mile of it, would shrink timidly
-back into cover, nine times in ten absolutely unharmed. Now would come,
-high over head, and altogether free from the chance of shot, a gallant
-blackcock or a tjäder, who, having run or flitted under cover for miles,
-had at last taken heart of grace, looked his danger in the face, and
-dashed across the line with that success which bravery deserves. Hares
-would from time to time race along the brow, unable to make up their mind
-which way they would head, and sometimes would draw a fruitless shot or
-two from a young and over-ardent sportsman, followed by the grave rebuke
-of his steadier skalfogde.
-
-Meanwhile the Captain had advanced along into the shooting line, and
-building himself up a screen of branches, where he could fully command
-the passage, waited patiently for what luck would send him; absolutely
-despising the smaller game that occasionally stole across the line and
-sheltered themselves in fancied security in the skalplatz, and not
-greatly disturbed by the occasional double-shots from Birger’s look-out
-place on the cliff above, though this was not unfrequently followed by a
-rattle of the twigs, or a soft _thud_, as his victim came tumbling to the
-earth.
-
-Birger’s post, indeed, had proved an excellent position for winged game,
-for the grouse, though by no means plentiful anywhere in Sweden, had been
-collected from twenty miles of country by the continued driving. Many, of
-course, had taken wing, and dashing over the heights, had found security
-in the higher fjeld, or across the river. But the grouse, especially the
-old cock, is a running bird, and numbers of them had continued toddling
-away by short and startled runs, a mile or so in advance of the dref, and
-now, hearing the noises in front as well as in the rear, and beginning
-to comprehend the precise dangers of their position, were, one after
-another, taking wing. Many of these followed the line of the cliffs,
-unwilling, perhaps unable to face them, but coasting their inequalities,
-and looking out for a lower point; these would come exactly on a level
-with Birger’s stand, and very seldom passed it unharmed.
-
-All this the Captain left unheeded; his soul was above black game; and,
-burning to wash away the disgrace of the preceding night, he kept his eye
-resolutely fixed on the shooting line; something moves—it is a bear—no—a
-rascally wolf, in that nonchalant style which no amount of danger will
-induce him to put off, slouches across—not across, for he is worthy of
-the Captain’s rifle; a shot reaches him, and he rolls over and over to
-the very foot of the shelter he had sought. Not a stir is heard from the
-Captain’s screen, and when the little puff of white smoke is dissipated
-into air, no one would have told where the fatal shot had come from.
-There goes a real full-grown bear, in downright earnest, and followed
-by two half-grown cubs, crouching and squatting, and making themselves
-as small as possible, like so many rabbits stealing out of cover; but
-confound them, they are three hundred yards down the line, the Captain
-will not risk wounding or missing them, and they disappear into the trees
-of the skalplatz to be headed back by the hållet when too late to return.
-
-And now the shouts and cries began to come louder and louder; and the
-hares, which had lingered as long as possible on the edge of the wood,
-began to creep, or steal, or race, or bound across the line, and among
-them several specimens of better game; the men were actually beginning
-to show themselves here and there in what, from the closing in of the
-ranks, had now become close order, so that nothing could have passed
-their line, when a gallant bear, with head erect and mouth open, dashed
-into the opening at full gallop, and came straight upon the Captain’s
-hiding-place, as if he knew where his enemy was lying, and meant, at all
-events, not to die without vengeance.
-
-The Captain fired deliberately,—paused for a moment to see the effect
-of his shot—then fired his second barrel; both took effect on the broad
-chest exposed to him, though without checking, for a moment, the rush of
-the bear. On he came!—the screen went down like reeds before him; but
-the Captain had thrown himself flat on the ground, and, covered by the
-branches, had escaped the view of his adversary, who plunged over them,
-dashed at the opposite cover, and disappeared from view.
-
-“Upon my word, that was a near thing,” said Bjornstjerna, who cantered
-up to the spot on his pony; “but a miss is as good as a mile,—not that
-you missed that rascal; I saw both shots strike as plainly as ever I
-saw anything in my life. Never mind, my boy, you have not lost him; he
-will not go far, for all his gallant bearing. Larssen!” he shouted,
-“Larssen! come here and take my pony. We must ride the Apostle’s
-horse[59] now;” and, leaping off, he proceeded to arrange his army,
-causing each skalfogde to muster his own men, as they came up, on the
-edge of the shooting line. Soiled, and wet, and dirty they looked: a
-Swede is rather a picturesque animal, when you are far enough off not
-to see his dirt, particularly when there is any general muster of them,
-for as each parish weaves its own wadmaal, or coarse cloth, and each
-wears it of a particular colour or pattern, the commencement of a skal
-looks, at a little distance, like a muster of regular troops, in regular,
-though rather eccentric uniforms: but the rains, and the dirt, and the
-mud-stains had reduced this to a very general average,—a sort of forest
-uniform of neutral tint.
-
-Advantage was taken of the halt to clean and reload the fire-arms, most
-of which had been rendered useless in the morning’s beat; for though the
-sun was shining brightly, there had been no wind, and the rain-drops of
-yesterday were glittering like diamonds on the branches, and pattering
-down like a shower-bath on all who moved them.
-
-In the mean time, the two chiefs having completed their junction, held
-a short consultation, and it was determined to advance a strong party
-from each side, close to the roots of the cliffs, sufficiently numerous
-to allow each man to touch his neighbour, and then to beat the skalplatz
-out to the river, which, not being quite so rapid or impassable as was
-expected, was guarded by the boats.
-
-This involved the abandonment of the Captain’s picket, which
-reinforced the beating party, the _materiel_ being conveyed, under the
-superintendence of Jacob, to the travelling-waggon which had been brought
-as near to the scene of action as the forest roads permitted.
-
-And now began the real dangers of the skal,—the difficulty of restraining
-the men from firing indiscriminately into the skalplatz, and shooting
-everything alike,—wolf, hare, fox, or beater.
-
-Fortunately the men were sober, and the officers well aware of the
-danger. Flags were sent into the forest to mark the advancing line;
-strict injunctions were given that none should be permitted to advance
-faster than his neighbours, and a trusty man on the outside of the
-cover carried a white flag about five yards before the main body of the
-beaters, followed by an _extempore_ provost marshal, with a party of
-trusty men, who had orders to tie up and flog on the spot any man who
-fired at anything whatever in the rear of the flags.
-
-All these arrangements were completed in little more than half-an-hour,
-and the bugles on both sides rang out the advance. The progress was very
-slow, not only on account of the necessity of preserving the accurate
-line, but because the beasts themselves required so much rousing; many of
-the smaller game, and, on one occasion, even a wolf, absolutely refused
-to move at all, and was knocked down or speared as it lay. In no case was
-resistance made by any of the wild beasts, with the single exception of
-the gallant fox, who, desperate but unsubdued, stood boldly at bay, and
-bit furiously at everything within its reach, but in vain,—for as the
-line soon became two or three deep, escape was next to an impossibility.
-One of the bear cubs, a three-parts grown animal, was dispatched by a
-blow of a hatchet, and the other was shot in the thick cover, by a man
-who had almost stepped upon it without seeing it. The Captain’s bear, a
-full-grown male, did not live ten minutes after it had gained the cover;
-there was no faltering in its gait or symptom of injury, for no muscle
-had been cut or bone broken by the shot, and its pluck and energy had
-carried it on till it fell suffocated by internal bleeding.
-
-And now the shouts rang out from the river-side; the she-bear had taken
-the water, and was gallantly forcing her way across it at a point rather
-higher than the boats had expected her. The stream was strong; the boats
-were at some distance; the Swedes, who were never good at moving-shots,
-had blazed away when she first dashed into the stream, and there was
-every chance of her escape, for they are terribly awkward in loading
-their terribly awkward firearms; the rowers were pulling away for life
-and death, and the heavy boats were forcing their slow progress against
-the stream, which was gradually bringing the bear down to them as she
-swam across it, when a long-shot from Bjornstjerna took effect, she
-rolled over, recovered herself, struck out again, but was carried down
-among the boats, secured, and brought to land.
-
-The game was then mustered,—so far, indeed, as it could be recovered, for
-it was shrewdly suspected by some, that the whole was not forthcoming.
-There were four full-grown bears and three cubs, seven wolves, two
-lynxes, three or four badgers, and a queer nondescript animal of the
-genus _canis_, which they called a filfras; foxes there were in some
-numbers, and this a much more valuable description of animal than ours;
-hares were numberless, and also squirrels,—many of both these last
-species of game, too, had been stewed and eaten on the preceding days.
-Whether any other description of larger game had been shot, did not
-appear. Notwithstanding what Moodie had said about the herd of stags,
-none were paraded at the muster, and as he did not, after all, make any
-complaint to the Ofwer Jagmästere on the subject, it may be concluded
-that the whole was a mistake or a dream of his own, and that no such
-breach of forest law had been committed by any one,—a fact of which the
-Captain loudly declared his complete conviction.
-
-[Illustration: DEATH OF FEMALE BEAR.
-
-p. 376.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVII.
-
-THE BALL.
-
- “Truly my brethren—truly my dear sisters—do you know how it
- seems to me—why it seems to me that no one can get along till
- he has taken a draught—How so? Eh? Your health, dear soul—
-
- Here’s to you day and night,
- New raptures, new delight.
-
- Strike up with the fiddles! beat the drums! a stout pull at the
- pot!
-
- Here’s to ye as is fit,
- The reckoning day endeth it.
- The big bottle hail ye,
- The drums beat reveiller,
- At one draught down send it,
- The reckoning will end it.
- Kajsa Stina stands a drawing,
- All my heart is clapper-clawing,
- From the pot my fingers thawing—
- Thus I sing my dying song.”
-
- _Fredman’s Epistle to Kajsa Stina, Karl Bellman._
-
-
-Never had the arches of the old forest rung with such shouts and screams,
-and roaring songs, and bursts of laughter, as they did on the evening
-of the great skal. A few of the elderly people, but a very few, had had
-enough of it, and went off quietly to their homes as soon as they were
-released from duty; as for the rest, no one could have supposed that
-they had been worked off their legs, and kept from their natural sleep,
-and drenched to the skin for the last three or four days and nights;
-they were not over-clean, certainly, though some of the youngsters had
-contrived, somehow or other, to smarten themselves up for the occasion;
-but the rest made a great contrast to the women, those at least who
-had taken no active part in the skal,—their white woollen jackets, or
-scarlet or green spencers covered with embroidery and buttoned down the
-front with silver knobs, formed a pleasing relief to the dinginess and
-raggedness of active service. As for the unfortunate buglers, who,
-most of them, were general musicians, and would play upon anything that
-was wanted, these, without the least regard to their previous fatigues,
-which had been even greater than those of the beaters, were placed upon
-barrels, or carts, or stumps of trees, fiddling and clarionetting for the
-bare life, while men and women tore in wild polska round them.
-
-Some travellers have characterized the Swedish dances as indecent;
-whether they are so or not, English papas, and mamas, and maiden aunts
-are very competent judges, for they are precisely the English polka, as
-we call it (dropping the s for convenience of pronunciation); the English
-polka is, in reality, the national peasant dance of Sweden; and in their
-own country the Swedes dance it with all their hearts and souls as well
-as their limbs and bodies—not sliding and mincing as we do, but downright
-pounding, so as to leave the print of the foot, and especially the heel,
-on the yielding turf.
-
-It might seem difficult to provide refreshments for such a ball-room
-in such a place, where the dancers mustered somewhere about two
-thousand strong—but in truth they were no way nice. The game, which
-Bjornstjerna had very liberally given up to them, formed a good part of
-these refreshments, a few sheep—“really sheep this time,” the Captain
-observed,—with a good supply of rye-meal made into stirabout, formed
-the solids, and these, though, with the exception of the game, they did
-not grow in the forest, were easily procurable, for the families of
-the combatants, knowing that a party of English gentlemen were engaged
-in the skal, and rightly conjecturing that their hearts would be open,
-had brought their stores to the meet, and all of these stores were not
-exactly solids; the barrels on which the fiddlers were standing were
-intended for something better than rye-meal: in fact, corn brandy, and
-a hot fiery liquor which they make out of potatoes—very beastly to the
-taste, but quite as efficacious in producing drunkenness as the very best
-Cognac—was in plenty, and, the restrictions of the skal being at an end,
-there was every prospect that the men would fully indemnify themselves
-for their previous abstinence.
-
-Birger and Moodie were stamping, and polking, and hurrahing, and kissing
-their partners with the best of them, and the Captain, also, was not
-altogether unsuccessful in his _coup d’essai_; as for the men, Tom and
-Piersen had altogether forgotten the inferiority of the Swedes to the
-true Norwegians, and Jacob’s long streaming coat tails had gone quite mad.
-
-Torkel, alone, stung by some jest from his friend Tom, about the peculiar
-duties and system of self-denial proper for an engaged man, crept up
-rather discontentedly to the fire, at which the Parson was standing and
-talking over the events of the day with Bjornstjerna.
-
-In Norway, which in reality is a republic, and not a monarchy, there
-is a great deal of independence and equality among all ranks, which is
-not by any means the case in Sweden; but even in Sweden, a skal is a
-time of saturnalia; and besides, Torkel, though in some measure acting
-in the capacity of a servant, was, in reality, the son and heir of a
-sufficiently wealthy proprietor; and the Englishmen, whom he ranked
-infinitely higher than he did the very first of Swedish nobility, having
-treated him all along more as a companion than anything else, he felt not
-the least shy of the Hof Ofwer Jagmästere, though he added the title of
-Count to his official honours,—and therefore entered very readily into
-conversation.
-
-They were turning over the skins of those beasts the bodies of which
-were already undergoing a conversion into soup; most of these had been
-purchased by the party, and were laid aside for packing; but the lynxes
-and the filfras, and some others, which are not considered good for
-eating, were still hanging by their heels to the lower branches of the
-tree.
-
-The filfras was a curious animal, about three feet long, but low in
-proportion to its length, with great splay feet, well calculated to form
-natural snow shoes—in fact, he leaves a track almost as large as that of
-a full-grown bear, and upon the whole, very like one, and climbs trees
-even better and quicker than his big brother. The present specimen had
-been detected on a tree, and being wounded while in the act of passing
-from one branch to the other, had come to the ground; but, wounded as
-he was, he had fought gallantly for his life, and had bitten so severely
-the first man who attempted to handle him, that he was obliged to leave
-the skal and go home. The filfras is a harmless beast enough, so far as
-sheep and cattle are concerned, and lives chiefly upon hares and such
-game, which, though his eyesight be not very quick, a remarkably keen
-scent enables him to tire down—he himself, in return, is even detected
-by his own scent, which is perfectly perceptible to human nostrils, and
-extremely disagreeable,—few dogs can be got to run him.[60]
-
-The lynx, though of the tiger race, is a very harmless beast unless
-attacked; he may carry off a young lamb now and then, but very seldom
-kills his own mutton—it is not for want of spirit, for he fights like
-any tiger when driven into a corner; throwing himself on his back, he
-polishes off the dogs as fast as they come near him. A pack of English
-fox-hounds might settle his business, as they probably would that of his
-Bengal cousin himself; but there is not a dog in Sweden that would look
-him in the face.
-
-“It is a great pity,” said Torkel; who was examining the shot-holes in
-the bear-skins.
-
-“What is a great pity?” said the Parson.
-
-“Why, to mob to death all these fine beasts, that might have given people
-no end of sport in the winter.”
-
-“And eaten up no end of sheep and oxen,” said Bjornstjerna.
-
-“Ah! well!” that did not strike Torkel very forcibly; he had, it must
-be confessed, led hitherto a rather miscellaneous sort of life; he knew
-a great deal more about hunting than he did about farming, and regarded
-the depredations of the bear—though some of them had been made on his
-father’s own farm—much in the light in which an English fox-hunter
-listens to tales of murdered geese and turkeys.
-
-The matter which weighed upon his conscience just then was, that poor
-Nalle[61] had not received altogether fair play. This had not struck him
-during the heat of the chase so very much, but, now that the murder had
-been committed, and that he was regarding the result of it in cold blood,
-he evidently did not feel quite easy in his mind about it.
-
-“Ah!” he said, “poor fellow,” turning over the skin of Bjornstjerna’s own
-bear, which was yet wet with the water of the river in which he had been
-killed; “well! we do not do such things in our country.”
-
-“No!” said Bjornstjerna, “you could not get a couple of thousand people
-together in your country without knives drawn.”
-
-“But how do you manage it in your country?” said the Parson, who was not
-a little afraid that his follower’s nationality would get the better of
-his politeness.
-
-“Ah!” said Torkel, “you should see one of our Norwegian bear-hunts in the
-winter; it is not an easy thing to get Master Nalle on foot, and he takes
-a good deal of looking after; but, when you do get a chance, it is worth
-having.
-
-“I remember my brother Nils one day, as he was coming home from church,
-took a short cut across the fjeld, and put his eye on a queer-looking
-heap in the snow, that he did not rightly know what to make of. While
-he was looking at it out came a great fellow—one of the biggest I ever
-followed,—as if he would eat him. Down tumbled Nils on his face, and the
-Wise One came ploutering through the snow right over him, but went on,
-minding his own business, as all wise ones do, and never stopped to look
-at Nils.
-
-“It so happened that my brother Nils had nothing but a pair of skarbogar
-on his feet (a rough sort of snow-shoe, made of wood and rope), and,
-knowing he could not get over the ground very well, never tried to
-follow him, but came home quietly and told me what he had seen. The
-weather looked fine, and there was neither snow likely to fall, nor wind
-likely to drift what was fallen already, so that we knew the tracks would
-lie; and the next morning, before it was well light, we had each of us
-our pair of skier on our feet, our rifles at our backs, a good iron-shod
-pole in our hands to shove along by, and a week’s provision in our
-havresacs. I took old Rig[62] with me, in case we should lose the tracks.
-
-“We soon came up with them, and off we went, taking it leisurely—for we
-had a long run before us. It requires some little exertion to get up hill
-with these skier; they do better for such a country as this than they do
-for the rocky and tangled fjeld in Norway; but, on flat ground, you get
-along five or six miles an hour without feeling it, and as for down-hill,
-you may go just as fast as you like, only for standing still and keeping
-your feet.
-
-“For four or five hours the track lay as straight and even in the snow as
-if we had been travelling the post road to Christiania. Old Nalle thought
-his winter quarters were not over safe, and meant evidently to make a
-passage of it, and had just been trotting along in the snow, not looking
-right or left of him.
-
-“After that the track came doubled and crooked, as if the old gentleman
-had been taking a view of the country, to see whether it would suit his
-purpose, before lying down for another nap,—so we had to work it out
-painfully, step by step. This was a slow job, for he had taken a turn
-to every point of the compass, and had crossed and re-crossed his own
-tracks, and had changed his mind so often, that the short winter’s day
-began to close, and we feared the light would fail; so we started right
-and left of the spot, and succeeded in ringing him before we met again.”
-
-“What do you mean by ringing a bear?” said the Parson.
-
-“Making a circle round his tracks,” said Torkel, “so as to be sure
-none lie beyond it; in that case you are independent of a thaw, for you
-know that the old gentleman must be within a certain space. When we met
-we agreed to leave our friend quiet, and to sleep till morning; so we
-cut down a tree or two, and got up a roaring fire in a little hollow to
-leeward, where we were sure the bear could not see our light or smell our
-smoke, and there we lay, snug and comfortable enough.
-
-“No thaw or mischance of any kind had taken place during the night, and
-the next morning we were on the tracks again; for we had marked the place
-where we had left off, by setting up one of the poles in it.
-
-“We soon got puzzled, however, and began to be very thankful that we had
-brought old Rig. Rig was a sharp fellow,—one of the quickest dogs I ever
-met with at picking up a scent, or taking a hint either; his namesake,
-when he watched at the gates of Asgard, could not have kept a brighter
-look-out. The ground soon got very tangled and sideling, so, as the ring
-was but a small one, we determined to give up the tracks, and to hunt for
-him with the dog.
-
-“The old fellow was not long in getting a sniff at him, and made noise
-enough to wake up the Nornir in the cave of Hela. I pushed on, and before
-I could tell where I was, ran my skier one on each side a little hole in
-the snow, where the dog was baying,—a place that did not look big enough
-for a fox to get in. I could not very well turn, for the points of the
-skier were one on each side the trunk of a great twisted birch, at whose
-foot the hole was; and I could not see what was in the hole, the snow was
-so dazzling in the bright sunshine that everything else looked black. I
-began to think that Rig had got hold of nothing better than a fox, and
-was beginning to be angry with the dog for making such a row, and running
-the chance of giving our real game a hint to steal off. I was looking
-down between my skier, with my face as low as my knees, when all at once
-I felt the snow heaving up from under me, and over I rolled, head over
-heels, and old Fur Jacket with me, and Rig, who had pinned him as he
-bolted, on the top of us both.
-
-“The old fellow was a great deal too much taken up with the dog to mind
-me; but before Nils could come up, or I could get my legs again, he had
-shaken him off, and was dashing through the deep snow at a rate that
-kicked it up in a white mist behind him.
-
-“I had kept fast hold of my rifle, all through, and the snow had not done
-it a bit of harm; in fact, the frost was so sharp that it came out of the
-barrel like so much flour; and besides, we always cover our locks with
-tallow after loading. He had got pretty well out of shot before we were
-in chase, but for his sins he had taken down-hill, and the ground was
-pretty clear, so we slid along after him like Fenrir after the Sun;[63]
-when all at once, Nils, who had a little the best of the race, touched a
-stump with the point of his skie, and flew up into the air, pitching head
-foremost into the snow. It was, luckily for him, deep enough to save him
-from a broken head or neck—at least, so I found afterwards, for I had not
-time to stop then. As for the dog, he was a mile behind.
-
-“Just at the bottom of the slope, I ran in upon the chase, and he turned
-short round when I was not half-a-dozen yards from him. I could no more
-stop than I could stop the lightning; so, setting my pole in the snow, I
-swerved a little, and just missed going over him, as Nils had done with
-the stump.
-
-“By the time I had curved round, I found he had taken advantage of his
-chance, and was going up again, travelling three times as fast as I could
-hope to do, for skier are desperate bad things up-hill. However, mine
-had seal-skin upon them, luckily, for in our mountainous country we are
-obliged to do something to prevent slipping back; but, for all that, he
-was getting much the best of it, so I took a cool shot at him, and heard
-the ball strike just as if I had thrown it into a piece of dough, but he
-never winced, or took the least notice.
-
-“However, Nils had managed to pick himself up, and I saw him and Rig
-together a good way above us, so I waved my cap and shouted: you can
-hear a shout in the winter half-a-dozen miles off. Nils changed his
-course, so as to cut us off. I followed, loading as I went. By-and-bye
-the old fellow seemed to find out that he had enemies on both sides of
-him, for he stopped, and growled, and looked back at me, and showed
-his teeth. Just then Nils made a noise above, by breaking through some
-understuff; and he turned, and came at me with his mouth open, charging
-down-hill as hard as he could lick. It was ‘neck or nothing’ with me now,
-I knew that, for there is no turning or dodging on skier, going up-hill,
-so I rested my rifle on the fork of a branch, and, waiting till he had
-come within a dozen yards of me, I shot into his mouth. Lord! it seemed
-as if somebody had given him a lift behind; his hind-quarters rose up,
-and his head went down, and he came sliding along the snow on his back,
-wrong-end foremost. I could not move right or left, hampered as I was,
-and he took me just across the shins with his huge carcass, breaking one
-of my skier, and carrying me with him as if I were riding in a sledge;
-but when we got to the bottom he never tried to hurt me, for he was as
-dead as Baldur.
-
-“That was something like a chase, and we turned a pretty penny by it,
-too; we got four specie for sealing his nose, and fourteen for his skin,
-to a young Englishman who wanted to prove to his friends at home that
-he had killed a bear, and gave two specie over the market price for the
-shot-hole; and, for ourselves, we had lots of fat, most of which, by
-the way, had got melted in the race, and had to be frozen again before
-we could carry it; and, for solid meat, the scoundrel weighed hard upon
-four hundred pounds. We had pretty hard work in getting him home, for in
-those two days we had run on end more than thirty of your English miles,
-besides the turns. We had to go home and fetch a sledge for him, and my
-sisters had a pretty job of salting when we got him there; Kari said that
-our work was not half so hard as hers.”
-
-“It is a curious thing, much as I have been in your country, I never saw
-a skie,” said the Parson; “I do not even know what sort of things they
-are.”
-
-“It would be strange if you had,” said Torkel; “we never keep them at the
-sœters, for the plain reason that we do not use them in summer at all,
-nor inhabit the sœters in the winter. You have been very little in any
-of our permanent winter homesteads since you have been here, and if you
-had happened to put your eye upon half-a-dozen long pieces of wood, with
-leather straps to them, the chances are, you would never have thought
-of asking what such very ordinary-looking articles were. I will answer
-for it, Herr Moodie has plenty of them at Gäddebäck; but they are, most
-likely, stowed away at the top of the house, in the winter store-room,
-where you would never think of going. They are long, thin strips of
-wood, of a triangular form, about three or four inches broad, with their
-points curved up for a foot or so, to clear the obstacles. In this flat
-country they make the left-foot skie, which is of fir, ten or twelve feet
-long; the right one is generally of ash, and not above five or six feet
-in length, or they would never be able to turn in them. I, myself, like
-them best both of a size, and not above five or six feet long,—only then
-you must have them broader, to prevent sinking in the snow. This is a
-disadvantage, certainly, still they are much handier to dodge about the
-trees with, than those unwieldy concerns they have here. Mine are a pair
-of old military skier, and there are none better.”
-
-“What! do the soldiers use them?” said the Parson.
-
-“That they do,” said Torkel. “I was always a good runner on skier, but
-I learnt a good many clever tricks at drill, when I was serving my time
-of duty in the militia. Our rifle regiment have all two light companies
-of skielobere, and are drilled to light infantry movements on skates.
-I did not like much being called out in the depth of winter for drill,
-and not a little did I grumble at the hard work they put us to,—scaling
-mountains, which we are obliged to do in skier, like ships beating to
-windward; and then charging down them among trees and stumps,—swinging
-this way and that, to keep one’s rifle out of harm’s way, and then
-suddenly called upon to halt and fire,—and preciously punished are we if
-the piece is not ready for action. However, I did not know what was good
-for me; I have been twice the man ever since after the bears and winter
-game.”
-
-“I suspect,” said the Parson, “that is pretty nearly the whole use of
-your skate-drill; it must be a pretty thing to see in a review,—but he
-must be a gallant enemy who undertakes a winter campaign in Norway,
-unless he is descended from the Hrimthursar themselves.”
-
-“Well! I cannot stand this any longer,” said Moodie, coming up; “half the
-party are drunk, and the rest are half-seas over; and there’s the Captain
-pounding away to his own whistling, for the last fiddler has just dropped
-off his empty barrel. It is time to go to bed.”
-
-“Bed, yes! but where are we to find it: Jacob, I suppose, is by this time
-numbered with the dead drunk.”
-
-“You may swear to that, and Tom also; I saw him very near his end an hour
-ago.”
-
-“Well I do not care, for one,” said the Parson; “my bed is here,” and he
-pulled out of his cariole his trusty mackintosh, and folding one of the
-sails to his own length, he spread the mackintosh upon it. “I shall sleep
-here luxuriously; and Torkel, bring me the cushion of the cariole seat. I
-will not forget to tell Lota how faithful you have been to her this day.
-Good night, all of you; we have work before us to-morrow.”
-
-And so they had,—for the sun was not yet far above the horizon, when the
-carioles were bumping along the forest roads to the southward.
-
-At Amal, Torkel, with good wishes from all, and presents from some of
-the party, took his leave to prepare for what Tom called the amending of
-his life, and parted on his separate road through Fjall, and laid under
-contribution a market boat from Wagne to Frederickshald, where he hoped
-to find a vessel to Tonsberg, or Larvig, on the Norwegian coast. The
-party proceeded leisurely along the western coast of the lake, to enjoy
-for some time longer the hospitalities of Gäddebäck.
-
-But the days began to shorten, and the joyous Scandinavian summer to come
-to its close. It was necessary to think of the homeward passage, in time
-to allow fine weather and sunny days for a leisurely cariole journey
-along that most picturesque of countries, the southern coast of Norway.
-Torkel’s wedding day, too, was approaching, and the party were under
-a half engagement to old Torgensen, which tallied very well with the
-necessity of reaching Christiansand for their homeward passage. “Time and
-tide wait for no man,” and a forebud having been laid to Strömstad, the
-carioles, accompanied as far as Wenersborg by Moodie, rolled away on the
-road to Uddevalla.
-
-One piece of luck attended them,—they were not yet to part from Birger,
-for it so happened that his royal highness the Crown Prince, was to
-pay his usual state visit to Christiania, on which occasion he was to
-be attended by Count Birger, our young scamp’s father, whose daughter,
-Birger’s sister, held also some appointment in the establishment of the
-Princess. Birger, therefore, was able to consult his pleasure and his
-duty at once, in going to Norway; to enjoy the coasting journey with
-his friends, and then to meet his family at Christiania after their
-departure.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVIII.
-
-THE WEDDING.
-
- When he came into the house at nightfall,
- She was angry with him—his old mother—
- “Son,” she said, “thou lay’st thy snares each morning,
- And each day thou comest back empty handed!
- Either thou lack’st skill, or thou art idle;
- Others can take prey where thou’st taken none!”
-
- Thus to her the gay young man made answer:
- “Who need wonder that our luck is different,
- When the same birds are not for our snaring?
- At the little farm that lieth yonder,
- Lives a wondrous bird, my good old mother;
- Snares I laid to catch it all the autumn,
- Now, this very winter have I caught it.
- Marvellous is this bird! for it possesses
- Not wings, but arms for tenderest embracing;
- Not down, but locks of silky, sunny lustre;
- No beak, but two fresh lips so warm and rosy!”
-
- _The Young Fowler.—Runnèberg._
-
-
-It was the morning of the wedding-day, and that day, of course, Sunday.
-Autumn was a little advanced, but the sky was as serene, and the lake as
-still and as smiling as it was on that day on which the fishermen had
-last looked upon it.
-
-The Parson had strolled out with Birger, after a very hurried and
-uncomfortable breakfast,—the only time such a thing had ever occurred
-under the hospitable roof of Torgensen; this was not so much for exercise
-as for the sake of being out of the way of the good lady Christina, who
-looked as if she considered the whole of her daughter’s earthly happiness
-to depend on the perfection of the wedding-dinner, which, even at that
-early hour of the morning, was in the course of preparation. Upstairs
-and downstairs was she, with a face as red as her scarlet stomacher,
-her great bunch of keys jingling like a sheep-bell as she moved, and her
-embroidered skirt whisking round every corner. She was partially dressed
-for the grand occasion, though her head was as yet muffled in a rather
-dirty handkerchief, but the glories of her holiday gown were in a great
-measure obscured by an immense apron, which bore indisputable marks of
-something more than mere superintendence of her peculiar department. The
-whole district would be there, no doubt, for though there are generally
-appointed days for weddings, and several couples were usually married
-at the same time, and moreover, the beginning of winter is a very
-favourite time for such matters, yet the Torgensens were so indisputably
-the squires of the place, that besides their own party which had been
-collected from far and wide, and that of one or two of their dependants
-who were to be married on the same day, the chances were that they would
-have visitors enough from other and inferior bridals.
-
-Come as many as there might, there were provisions enough for them all;
-there was brandy enough to float a barge; there were heaps of fish and
-game of all sorts; and—a much rarer thing at the beginning of autumn
-and before the cattle have returned from the sœters,—plenty of beef and
-mutton. Puddings, sweet soups, and all the infinite variety of gröds had
-been in preparation for days and nights; still the good house-mother
-distressed herself; and rendered uncomfortable everything around her,
-lest something should have been forgotten, and the credit of Torgensen’s
-hospitality should suffer in the eyes of the strangers.
-
-The Captain, who had offered to officiate as bridesman, was taking
-lessons in his arduous duties from little Lilla, the præst’s daughter,
-who, proud of her English, and not at all unwilling to get up a
-flirtation with a good-looking foreigner, had neglected her own duties
-as bridesmaid, and enticed the Captain, nothing loth, to the præstgaard,
-where he was practising the required duties of his office; and, to judge
-from the time he took at his lessons, he must have been particularly slow
-and stupid in comprehending them.
-
-What was the morning occupation of Lota and her other bridesmaids was
-a mystery,—not one of them was visible; that it was something of an
-entertaining character was evident from the tittering, and gay laughter,
-and occasional little screams that proceeded from a large square-headed
-window wide open on the upper-floor, and on the farthest extremity of the
-building. The only anxious and unhappy-looking countenance was that of
-the happy bridegroom himself, who having nothing whatever to do, wandered
-up and down the terrace with his hands in his pockets, the only idle
-man, and consequently in the way of every one. Conscious that he was the
-object of every body’s attention, and the butt of those jokes which are
-common on such occasions, and no where more common or less delicate than
-in Norway, he laboured hard to be at his ease and succeeded but very ill.
-Indeed, his new jacket, which did not come down to his shoulder blades,
-and was a little too tight for him into the bargain, and his stiff
-glossy trousers would alone have been sufficient to disturb any man’s
-self-possession, to say nothing of the chain of filagree silver balls,
-each as large as a grape-shot, which were called shirt buttons, and hung
-down from his neck; while a stout broad hat twice as broad in the crown
-as in the rim, and stiffly turned up on each side, weighed on his brows
-like a helmet,—so very new that it still exhibited the creases of the
-paper in which it had been packed.
-
-Jan Torgensen, Lota’s brother, who was his other bridesman, was doing his
-best to keep him in countenance, for they had always been great allies,
-and in fact, Torkel had been Jan’s preceptor in wood-craft, and, so Lota
-declared, in every sort of mischief besides. At this present moment
-any one who had seen them both, would have taken Jan for the preceptor
-and Torkel for the pupil; and Jan for the happy bridegroom, and Torkel
-for the disappointed swain,—so happy looked Jan and so sheepish looked
-Torkel. But, in truth, Jan had his own particular pride and happiness,
-connected, though in a remote manner, with that of his friend. He had
-just received his appointment as skipper of the _Haabet_, vice Svensen,
-superseded in Lota’s affections by Torkel, and in the command of the brig
-by Jan; for the poor fellow, when he found how things were going with
-him, resigned the command, settled accounts with old Torgensen, and, much
-to the regret of the latter,—for Svensen was a first-rate sailor,—betook
-himself to Copenhagen, out of the sight of his rival’s happiness.
-
-Jan, who was a thorough partizan, and had never liked poor Svensen, not
-so much on account of any of his demerits as out of affection for his
-friend Torkel (for Lota it is to be feared, had coquetted between her
-admirers much more than was altogether proper), was singing, or rather
-roaring, at the full pitch of a sailor’s voice, the popular ballad of Sir
-John and Sir Lavé:—
-
- “To an island green Sir Lavé went;
- He wooed a maiden with fair intent;—
- ‘I will ride with you,’ quoth John;
- ‘Put on helmets of gold, to follow Sir John.’
-
- He wooed the maiden and took her home,
- And knights and serving-men are come;—
- ‘Here am I!’ quoth John.
-
- They set the bride on the bridal seat,—
- Sir John, he bade them both drink and eat.
- ‘Drink, and drink deeply!’ quoth John.
-
- They brought the bride to the bridal bed,—
- They forgot to untie her laces red:
- ‘I can untie them!’ quoth John.
-
- Sir John, he locked the door with speed;
- ‘Good night to you, Sir Lavé,’ he said.
- ‘I shall sleep here!’ quoth John.
-
- Word was brought to Sir Lavé there—
- ‘Sir John is within, with thy bride so fair!’
- ‘That am I, in truth!’ quoth John.
-
- At the door, Sir Lavé makes a loud din;—
- ‘Withdraw the bolts, and let us in!’
- ‘You had best keep out,’ quoth John.
-
- He knocked at the door with shield and spear,—
- ‘Withdraw the bolts, and come out here!’
- ‘See if I do!’ quoth John.
-
- ‘If my bride may not in peace remain,
- I will go and unto the king complain.’
- ‘Just as you like,’ quoth John.
-
- Early next morn, when the birds ’gan to sing,
- Sir Lavé is off to complain to the king;—
- ‘I will go, too!’ quoth John.
-
- ‘I was betrothed but yesterday,—
- Sir John has taken my bride away!’
- ‘Yes, so I have!’ quoth John.
-
- ‘If that the maiden to both is dear,
- It must be settled at point of spear.’
- ‘I’m very willing!’ quoth John.
-
- As soon as the morrow’s sun was bright,
- Came all the knights to see the fight;—
- ‘Here am I!’ quoth John.
-
- The two were mounted, and at the first round
- The knees of Sir John’s horse touched the ground.
- ‘Now help me, Heaven!’ quoth John.
-
- Once more, and in the second round
- Sir Lavé lies upon the ground;—
- ‘There let him lie,’ quoth John.
-
- Sir John he rode to his hall in state,
- And his maiden met him at the gate;—
- ‘Now thou art mine,’ quoth John.
-
- Thus was Sir John made happy for life,
- And the maiden became his wedded wife.
- ‘I knew I should have her,’ quoth John.
- ‘Put on helmets of gold, to follow Sir John.’”
-
-“Come, come! Jan!” growled old Torgensen, “hold your saucy tongue;
-Svensen was a better man than you will ever be in a year of Sundays.
-And you, you grinning flirts,”—to the servant-girls, with whom Master
-Jan was an especial favourite, and upon whom the application was by no
-means lost—“get along with you, and mind your own business,—as if you
-had nothing to do, on such a morning as this, but to listen to such
-fooleries! Be off with you, I say!”
-
-In the meanwhile the Parson and Birger,—who, by the way, hardly
-recognised each other in their gala habits, for the one was habited,
-in honour of the occasion, in the black dress of an English clergyman,
-while the other, with his sword clinking by his side, blazed in all
-the blue and yellow splendour of the Swedish guard,—took up their old
-position at the lich gate of the church; one as before balancing on
-the stocks, the other astride on the dwarf wall, glad to be out of the
-din of preparation. It was not a happy day for any of them, for it was
-the last day of the expedition, which every member of it had enjoyed so
-thoroughly;—Birger’s leave of absence was running to an end, and the two
-Englishmen had taken passage with young Torgensen to the _Haabet_. They
-were to sail—so Torgensen said—that night; but, as it was quite certain
-that, before that time, the whole crew would be drunk, in honour of their
-young mistress, this probably meant to-morrow. Still, to-morrow was to
-be the final break-up of the party; and Tom had been philosophizing,
-with tears in his eyes, on the transitory nature of human pleasures; and
-Torkel, bridegroom as he was, would willingly have postponed his wedding
-if he could have prolonged the expedition,—at least, so Lota had told him
-the evening before, and he did not look as if he was speaking the truth
-when he denied it.
-
-Neither of the friends felt much inclined for conversation. They were
-natives of different parts of the world; their courses from that point
-lay in opposite directions; the chances were very much against their
-meeting again, and, though their acquaintance had not been of very long
-duration, so far as time is concerned, one week’s campaign in the wild
-forest does more towards ripening an intimacy than a year of ordinary
-life.
-
-In the meanwhile the time passed on, and the early peal rang out, and
-the groups began to collect as before in the church-yard, and the lake
-to be dotted with boats, all pulling or sailing from its remoter bays
-and islets to the church, as a common centre. Here and there a party, as
-before, was occupied round a grave, pulling up the overgrown convolvulus
-and trimming the withering leaves of the lilies. By and by a bugle
-sounded a call, and a couple of fiddles from one of the nearest boats
-struck up a polka.
-
-“Here come some of the wedding parties,” said Birger; “there seem to be
-plenty of happy couples in Soberud this year. Well! there is nothing like
-fashion,—in this, as in other things, one fool makes many. Look at that
-leading boat!—that one, I mean, just pulling round the point of the
-island!—there is a crowned bride in her! Holy Gefjon, Mother of Maids!
-such a sight as that is rare in Norway! I should think the chances were
-that she got some one to pull her crown off her head before the day was
-over. She does not seem much afraid, either, and an uncommonly pretty
-girl, too, which makes it all the more wonderful. Well! well! ‘a virtuous
-woman is a crown to her husband;’ I hope he will appreciate his blessings
-as he ought, such blessings as that do not fall to the lot of many in
-this country.”
-
-“What do you mean by that, Birger?” said the Parson, getting up, and
-shading his eyes with his hands as he looked out on the lake.
-
-“Ah, you may well shade your eyes before beauty and innocence,” said
-Birger; “you do not often see them combined, in this country.”
-
-“Well, the fact is this,” said he, dropping his bantering tone, “what you
-commonly call virtue—that is to say, chastity,—is a very rare article
-indeed, I am sorry to say, either in Norway or Sweden; the manners of
-the people do not tend to foster it. Their promiscuous way of living in
-the winter, and the sœter life in summer, makes it absolutely necessary
-for a girl either to have a very great respect for herself, or to be
-forbiddingly ugly; and whatever the case may have been in earlier and
-better times, certain it is that beauty is now much more common among us
-than self-respect. Then, again, the laws which prevail in Sweden, and
-the customs, which the Udal tenures in Norway make as stringent as laws,
-forbid any to marry who are not householders (whence your word husband,
-which simply means huus bonde—a peasant with a house), and at the same
-time forbid the erection of more than a specified number of houses on
-any land. All this renders early marriages almost impossible. The result
-may easily be imagined. And to make this the more certain, our wise
-laws enact that a woman, having any number of children by any number
-of fathers, who at any time of her life shall marry any one whatever,
-by the simple act of marriage affiliates all the children she may ever
-have had on her unhappy husband; and wherever the Udal law prevails,
-he is obliged to share his land equally among them. The consequence of
-this is, that unchastity is no sort of disgrace. It is the commonest
-thing in the world for a noble to live with a woman all his life, under
-promise of marriage to be performed on his death-bed, and the woman is
-all the while received much like the Morganatic bride of a German prince.
-Frederika Bremer, herself as exemplary a woman as ever lived, has made
-the plot of one of her novels to hinge on a man living in such a manner,
-and dying suddenly, without being able to perform his promise. She does
-not attach the shadow of disgrace to any one, except the relatives of the
-deceased, who refused to acknowledge the woman merely on account of this
-‘unfortunate accident,’ as she calls it. And so it is. Had she written
-otherwise, she would have been out of costume; there is no disgrace in
-the matter. I do not mean to say that this girl is not proud of her
-crown—of course she is, just as I am proud of this blue and yellow ribbon
-of mine,” pointing to the Order of the Sword with which he had decorated
-his uniform-coat for the occasion; “but look how she is kissing that girl
-in green, who has just landed from that other boat,—that is another bride
-who cannot claim the distinction; she no more thinks her disgraced, than
-I should think a brother officer disgraced to whom his gracious Majesty
-had not been pleased to give the same distinction that he has to me.”
-
-“There seem to be plenty of brides,” said the Parson, “for there is
-another green lady, of damaged fame; she seems to be a rich one, by the
-number of her fiddlers before, and followers after.”
-
-“They generally have one wedding-day for the district,” said Birger,
-“and a good plan too; it diminishes the expense when they all have their
-festivities together, and diminishes the drunkenness very considerably,
-both on the day and on its anniversaries, for the whole district get
-drunk together at once, and get it over, instead of inviting one another
-to help them to on their several wedding-days.”
-
-“But what are the ‘crowns?’” said the Parson.
-
-“An ancient custom, by which they challenge any imputation on their
-fair fame; any one who has anything to say against the chastity of the
-wearer, is privileged to pull off the crown and to drive the lady out of
-the church, only the accuser is bound to prove his allegations.”
-
-“It seems a pretty expensive affair, at least, to judge of it at this
-distance.”
-
-“O yes, far too expensive to be the property of any individual; they hire
-it for the occasion, and, I will be bound, pay five or six dollars for
-the pleasure of wearing that and the rest of the costume. Just look at
-her as she comes into the light; that dress of black bombazine, with the
-short sleeves and white mittens, is probably her own,—very likely it was
-her mother’s before her, only fresh dyed for the occasion; but that gay
-apron, with the ribbons, and beads, and the silver chains and necklaces,
-I should think were hired; the dollars round her neck are her dowry in
-all probability, and, consequently, her own; so is the muff, and the
-handkerchiefs of various colours that hang from it; and possibly, also,
-those yellow kid gloves. But look at the crown itself! why it is silver
-gilt!—and that scarf, which hangs down from the spray on the top of it,
-is covered with satin lappets, three-quarters long! now do you think a
-peasant would buy that? A green bridal, you see, is a much more modest
-affair; they wear their silver chains over their green bodices like the
-others, but on their heads, instead of the crown, they have the ordinary
-wimple of married women, made of fine white linen, and above it the
-triangular snood of unmarried girls.”
-
-“Here come our party at last! What a host they have collected! the church
-will not hold them all. And there is pretty Lota, with her bridesmaids
-after her. Well, I hope no one will pull her crown off; how pretty she
-looks in it.”
-
-“Not half so pretty as that little fresh-looking, innocent, Lilla
-Nordlingen,” said Birger. “Upon my word I am half inclined to make love
-to her myself.”
-
-“You had better not, Mr. Guardsman, you do not stand the ghost of a
-chance; how she would turn up that innocent little Norwegian nose of hers
-at a brute of a Swede. Besides, do you not see how she is making love to
-the Captain, how uncommonly smart the Captain has turned out in his red
-uniform! to which the moustache he has been growing ever since he has
-been here, forms so appropriate an appendage. Your blue and yellow would
-look dingy to eyes that have been dazzled with such scarlet magnificence.”
-
-“Ah, well, we will see. The Captain looks as if he were saying to her,
-‘_Aimez moi vite, car je pars demain._’”
-
-“That’s your best chance,” said the Parson, maliciously; “but come,
-the bells are ringing in, and we had better get into the ranks of the
-procession. Here comes Nordlingen, with his long-legged Candidatus at his
-heels.”
-
-While the Pfarrherr went in to array himself in his robes, the different
-marriage parties, warned by the bells, had begun to arrange themselves
-into one grand procession; while their respective musicians, who together
-formed a pretty numerous band, laid their heads together about the tune
-to be played on this grand occasion, and tuned their fiddles into concord.
-
-The party had by this time increased considerably, and when at last the
-band, having settled their harmonious differences, marched up the nave of
-the church playing, somewhat incongruously, a jolly polka, there marched
-after them no less than six happy couples, with their followers, each
-bride and each bridegroom having a silver ort (ninepence) tied up under
-their respective garters, for luck. Only two of the six were crowned
-brides, and that, Birger whispered, as they took their places, was a
-wonderfully large proportion.
-
-First after the fiddlers came the Candidatus in his gown, who had gone
-out to marshal the procession; then came the married men related to the
-parties, in their short blue jackets and white-fronted shirts, some
-of which were clean; then came the bridegrooms with their bridesmen,
-dressed something in the same fashion, except that they affected buckskin
-breeches and white stockings: each bridegroom, by way of distinction, had
-a fine white handkerchief (cambric, if he could possibly come by it),
-tied round his right arm; then came the bridesmaids in green, (which
-there is not an unlucky colour as it is with us), with bare heads, and
-their hair, which was plaited with many coloured ribands, hanging down
-their backs in two tails; then the bride-leaders, married women, who
-are supposed to encourage the brides during the ceremony, and lastly,
-the brides themselves, in all their splendour. The chancel was as full
-as it could hold, the principals disposing themselves round the altar,
-kneeling, while the bridesmaids held canopies of shawls and handkerchiefs
-over their heads, and the congregation craned in through the chancel
-rails, while the priest proceeded with the service.
-
-Scarcely was the benediction pronounced, when the fiddlers again struck
-up their polka, and the happy couples, now arm-in-arm, marched down after
-them, (the wedding-party forming a sort of escort), and proceeded with
-great ceremony to the præstgaard meadow, where the marriage feast—an
-enormous pic-nic—was prepared for them, and where the wedding presents,
-many of them of considerable value, were set out for public inspection.
-
-These were not exactly the expensive sort of trumpery which forms the
-staple of bridal presents in England,—silver vessels that no one ever
-drinks out of, and dressing cases far too expensive for ordinary use. The
-presents here were real honest implements of house-keeping or farming;
-pots and pans, and plates and dishes, and chairs and tables,—spades,
-pickaxes: a tonne of rye-meal was the offering of one,—a sack of potatoes
-of another; here was a pile of oderiferous salt-fish,—there a flitch
-of bacon, at which one of the Captain’s best jokes missed fire—bacon
-having no allegorical value whatever in Norway; here again was a good
-milch cow, tethered to a tree, or half-a-dozen sheep or pigs folded with
-hurdles, while the bride’s feather-beds would have borne a high value in
-England. Lota’s were something quite magnificent. With such hunters in
-her train, as Torkel and poor Svensen, and her own brother Jan, (who in
-his younger days and before he had found out some one to whom to transfer
-his youthful allegiance, had contributed largely to his sister’s stores),
-it was not to be wondered at if she easily eclipsed all the brides of the
-season.
-
-At a comparatively early hour, Torkel and his wife took their leave,
-as they had that evening to reach Lönvik, a pretty little farm in the
-interior, on the banks of a small lake of the same name, which Torkel’s
-father had given up to him on his marriage. But this by no means put a
-stop to the festivities, which were carried on to a late hour in the
-night, and at which, Sunday though it was, Nordlingen himself presided.
-Sunday in Norway begins at six o’clock on Saturday night, when invariably
-preparations are commenced for the next day, in the way of looking up
-Sunday clothes, and brushing up or washing out the house,—sometimes,
-in religious families, by special prayer, though that is not very
-common,—sometimes even by washing their own persons, though this, it must
-be confessed, is rarer still,—for all of them have a very great horror of
-the personal application of soap and water. Sunday, therefore, even as
-a day of worship, legitimately ceases at the same hour on the following
-day, and, as Nordlingen himself remarked,—what was a more fitting time
-for enjoyment than just after they had been admitted to their Lord’s
-presence, and had had their sins forgiven them. It was surely much more
-congruous than the English way of “making a Saturday night of it,” with
-all their sins yet upon their shoulders.
-
-If, however, there was dancing, there was no visible drunkenness; the
-Pfarrherr was a man of sufficient influence to make a stand against the
-national vice, and if any of the guests did feel a little the worse for
-liquor, he quietly took himself, or was taken by his friends, beyond the
-glare of the great bonfire, where no one could see him,—for Nordlingen
-was wise enough not to look too closely into what was not intended for
-his inspection.
-
-It was this idea, or perhaps the recollection that the _Haabet_ was to
-sail the next day, that induced him to close his eyes to the fact that
-that innocent little Lilla had danced with no one but the Captain the
-whole evening, on the plea that no girl of the party, except herself,
-was able to talk to him in English. Whatever it was that they had to
-say to one another, there was a good deal of it, and it took a good
-while saying, and as Birger, who was outrageously jealous remarked
-spitefully,—“they, as well as the drunkards, preferred evidently the
-light of the moon to that of the great wedding bonfire,” and thinking,
-probably, how he would make up for lost time after the _Haabet_ had
-tripped her anchor, whistled pensively the Swedish song—
-
- “Hence on the shallows our little boat leaving,
- On to the Haaf where the green waves are heaving,
- Causing to Thyrsis so much dismay.”
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIX.
-
-HOMEWARD BOUND.
-
- And, now, my good friends, I’ve a fine opportunity
- To obfuscate you all by sea terms with impunity.
- And talking of “caulking,”
- And “quarter-deck walking,”
- “Fore and aft,”
- And “abaft,”
- “Hookers,” “barkeys,” and “craft,”
- (At which Mr. Poole has so wickedly laught);
- Of “binnacles,” “bilboes,” the boom called the “spanker,”
- The best “bower cable,” the “jib,” and “sheet anchor;”
- Of “lower-deck guns,” and of “broadsides and chases;”
- Of “taff-rails” and “top-sails,” and “splicing main braces,”
- And “shiver my timbers,” and other odd phrases
- Employed by old pilots with hard-featured faces;
- Of the expletives sea-faring gentlemen use,—
- The allusions they make to the eyes of their crews.
-
- _Ingoldsby._
-
-
-The _Haabet_ did not sail that night, which indeed was hardly possible,
-her Captain being employed in dancing, and making love, and singing, in
-the words of Karl Bellman,—
-
- “Awake, Amaryllis! my dearest, awaken,—
- Let me not go to sea by my true love forsaken,—
- Our course among dolphins and mermaids is taken:
- Onwards shall paddle our boat to the sea.”
-
-Neither did the _Haabet_ sail on the morrow, for the wind had chopped
-round to the south-west; neither did she sail the next day, for there
-was a dead calm;—there was plenty of time for leave-taking, and a
-leisurely journey to Christiansand besides, which was accomplished in
-the carioles—their last journey, as Tom feelingly remarked. The Captain
-arrived at Ullitz’s, a good hour behind the rest, who would not wait for
-the end of his last conference with Lilla Nordlingen.—They were, besides,
-a little anxious about the weather, for the season was somewhat advanced,
-and everything was so deadly calm, that it was quite evident a change of
-some sort was at hand.
-
-What that change was, the next morning made manifest enough, for the wind
-was roaring round the house, and the rain pattering furiously against the
-windows long before the sun was up.
-
-However, the old copper lion that surmounted the church had veered
-round again, and was turning his battle-axe towards England, and Jan
-Torgensen—Captain Torgensen we should call him now in virtue of his
-new command, and in truth he was not a little proud of the title
-himself,—came in just as a very sulky breakfast was completed, and
-announced, “that as the wind was fair, he did not care the scale of a
-herring how much there was of it, and that this night should be spent at
-sea.”
-
-No one was sorry for this announcement, not even Birger, who was going
-back to Nordlingen’s, as he said, “in order to console Ariadne for
-the desertion of her faithless Theseus.” The pleasures of the summer
-had departed, and it was useless to linger over the scenes of past
-enjoyments. At Nordlingen’s perhaps the time might have passed pleasantly
-enough, notwithstanding the change of weather, but Christiansand has
-but few resources for a rainy day; and besides this, the very idea
-of a prolonged parting is depressing. Torkel was gone, and Tom was
-much too low for a story or a joke. There were, however, some marine
-difficulties—there always are; papers are never ready, and agents are
-always behind time, and thus, though every one was anxious to be off, and
-none less than Torgensen himself, who grudged every blast of the fair
-wind, it was full five o’clock before the anchor broke ground; and a
-cake, the last token of Marie’s affection, having been previously placed
-on the taffrail for Nyssen, the _Haabet_ turned her stern to the blast,
-and set her fore-sail, and hoisted a couple of double reefed top-sails to
-receive it. The rain redoubled—certainly if Gammle Norgé had received
-them with smiles, she honoured their departure with tears.
-
-The first thing that met the Captain’s eye, as he turned from waving the
-last farewell to Birger’s receding boat, was the pilot, roaring drunk
-already, and the mate supplying him with no end of additional brandy. He
-went forward to draw Torgensen’s attention to this apparently dangerous
-breach of naval discipline.
-
-“Be quiet,” said Torgensen, in broken English, “the mate knows very well
-what he is about, I supplied him with the brandy myself. That drunken
-rascal is sure to get us into a scrape, if he has sense enough left
-in his drunken body to fancy he can take charge of the ship; and I am
-obliged, by law, to take him drunk or sober. As soon as he gets too drunk
-to interfere, which I am happy to say will be the case very shortly, I
-shall pilot my own ship, and I should think I ought to know how to take
-her out of Christiansand by this time—we all do that; in fact, these
-drunken pilots are nothing but an incumbrance.” And an incumbrance in
-this instance he proved, for, Torgensen having safely carried his brig
-to the mouth of the fjord, they were obliged to heave to for the pilot’s
-boat, which kept them waiting for a good hour more. The Parson suggested
-taking him to sea; but Torgensen swore he had had too much of him already.
-
-It was long after dark, therefore, when they passed the lighthouse, which
-they did in a furious squall of wind and rain, and stood out to sea under
-close reefed top-sails and reefed fore-sail, with two men at the helm,
-the brig steering as wild as if the Nyssen were blowing on both quarters
-at once, but dashing away through it for all that, and heaping up the sea
-under her bluff bows.
-
-The whole surface was one vast blaze of phosphoric light—the ship’s
-ragged wake was a track of wavering flame, the water that broke from her
-bows was a cataract of fire, a rope that was towing under her counter
-(Torgensen was not at all particular about these little matters), was ten
-times more visible than it would have been by broad daylight, for every
-strand in it was clearly defined by lines of delicate blue flame, while
-each breaking wave was a flash of brightness. The wind was as fair as
-it could be, and as they drew out from under the lee of the land, seemed
-enough to tear the sails from their bolt ropes.
-
-“Hurrah for Nyssen!” shouted Torgensen; but he shouted a little too soon,
-for not an hour afterwards they were close hauled with a south-west wind,
-dead foul, dancing like a cork in a mill pond, on the top of a tumbling
-cross sea, and plodding along at barely three knots; not even looking up
-within four points of their course.
-
-And the next day, and the next night, and the next, the same monotonous
-story; only as the wind settled to the south-west, the bubble went down,
-and it was not so difficult to walk the three steps and a half, which
-formed the _Haabet’s_ quarter-deck.
-
-Still the only answer to the anxiously repeated morning question of “How
-is her head,” was, when most favourable, “half a point southward of
-west,—think we shall weather the Naze, please God.”
-
-Torgensen was always in high spirits, and was as proud of his new
-command, the Captain said, as a peacock with two tails; and she
-really had qualities of which a commander might well be proud, as a
-sea-boat,—but these did not comprehend either beauty, or comfort, or
-speed.
-
-There is no between decks in a Norwegian timber brig, the whole space
-being occupied with its bulky cargo, much of which lumbers up the waist,
-and forecastle besides; the crew inhabited a small hurricane-house just
-abaft the mainmast; a very small slip of this was bulk-headed off for the
-mate,—while the remainder—and a very small remainder it was—served the
-crew for parlour, and kitchen and all, for there was no other cookery
-place in the ship; in one sense this was an advantage, for they could
-cook in the worst of weathers, and this is not always practicable in a
-merchant ship; but if they did get this advantage over the wind and rain,
-it was, as the Captain remarked, a very dirty advantage indeed. All that
-there was of cover below the deck, was a very small sail-room aft, also
-used as a bread-room; before this was the Captain’s cabin, measuring
-exactly eight feet by six, which served for Torgensen and his two
-passengers, and for a purser’s store-room into the bargain, with all its
-indescribable stinks. After a very little practice, the Captain declared
-he could always tell the tack they were on, by the particular description
-of stink that was uppermost, and used to say that they had got their
-starboard or port stinks on board, as the case might be.
-
-The bread alone of the ship’s provisions was under cover; the beef
-and pork was stored in harness casks, lashed to the bulwarks, thus
-diminishing still more the very diminutive quarter-deck. In fact, a
-quarter-deck walk was what none of them ever thought of.
-
-Hurrah!—the Naze bearing N.N.E., and all dangers of a lee-shore past: a
-lee-shore in timber ships is no joke; they never sink—they cannot, for
-the Norwegian deals and baulks being of less specific gravity than water,
-the ship that carries them would be buoyed up even if water-logged, but
-their very want of specific gravity is the cause of their danger on a
-lee-shore; besides being full below, the whole deck is lumbered up for
-six feet or more, and the centre of gravity is so high that they are all
-crank to the most ticklish degree; and, though invariably carrying very
-low sail, require every attention to keep them on their legs; for this
-reason, if caught on a lee-shore in anything like a breeze, they can
-never claw off, for they can carry nothing without tumbling over on their
-beam ends. For this reason, every Norwegian is very careful of an offing,
-it is the only thing he seems to care much about. When the wind changed,
-every ship that the fair breeze had tempted out of Christiansand that day
-had put back, and Torgensen only had held on, partly because he knew the
-comparatively weatherly qualities of his brig, but principally because he
-was young and foolish.
-
-Toward evening the wind drew round to the northward, and the brig was
-able, first to lie her course, then to shake out the reefs from her
-topsails, and lastly, having brailed up her fore and aft mainsail, to
-display a very ragged suit of studding-sails, which together got a fathom
-or two over six knots out of her—the very top of her speed,—and the Naze
-slowly sank below the horizon, fading into blue as it sank.
-
-But this good luck was not to hold; fine weather returned, but with it
-calm and light baffling breezes, with the ship’s head looking every
-way except that which she was wanted to go. Singular as anything of
-cleanliness seems among people who personally rejoice in dirt, there was
-more fuss in cleaning decks than is to be seen in many a man-of-war;
-the very cabin-deck was holy-stoned every morning, as well as the
-quarter-deck; though so far as the latter was concerned, this was
-rendered absolutely useless by the abominable habit of spitting, for
-which the Norwegians deserve as much notice as the Americans themselves,
-and which they do not yet only “_quia carent vate sacro_,” because
-they have not a Mrs. Trollope to write about them. In the present
-instance this was the more inexcusable, because the northern style of
-ship-building pinches in their ships so much aft, that a man with strong
-lungs might set on the weather bulwark, and with ease spit over the
-lee-quarter.
-
-As for seamanship, there are no smarter seamen in the world than the
-Norwegians when there is need, or more slovenly when there is not; but
-how they contrive to navigate their ships is a mystery which none but a
-Norwegian can solve. The whole of it is done by dead reckoning, with, in
-the North Sea at least, a pretty liberal use of the lead: besides the
-deep-sea lead, their only nautical instruments are the log, and what they
-call the “pein-compassen.” This last is a compass-card made of wood, and
-marked with thirty-two lines corresponding to the points, and drawn from
-the centre to the circumference, on which centre revolves freely a brass
-needle of equal length with the lines.
-
-On starting, the true bearing of the destined port, or of some remarkable
-point or headland which must be sighted during their voyage, is taken,
-and the “pein-compassen” is fixed to the binnacle, with that part set
-towards the head of the vessel. This, for that particular voyage, is
-called “the steering line;” and so long as the true compass tallies
-with its wooden brother—that is to say, so long as the ship looks up for
-her port,—the whole run is given her at the end of each watch; but, in
-traverse sailing, the two compasses must of course point different ways.
-In this case, at the end of the watch if the wind has been steady, or
-whenever the ship, from tacking, or any other cause, alters her course or
-her rate of sailing, the brass needle on the “pein-compassen” is turned
-to that point of the compass to which the ship’s head has actually been
-lying, and a line is drawn from that point with chalk, intersecting the
-“steering line” at right angles. The part cut off between the centre
-of the compass and the point of intersection gives the actual gain in
-distance to the port towards which she is bound, and answers to the
-cosine of our more scientific nomenclature. This, with some corrections
-for lee-way, is given to her, while the chalk line drawn from the point
-of the moveable needle to the point of intersection, which answers to
-our sine, gives the number of miles which the adverse wind has compelled
-her to diverge from her course, and which must be compensated for by a
-corresponding deviation on the other tack.
-
-Thus it is that, day after day, the ship’s reckoning is kept, not by
-calculation, but by actual measurement, performed by a pair of compasses
-on a graduated scale; and, clumsy as this contrivance may seem, they do
-navigate their ships with an accuracy that might put some of our merchant
-skippers to shame,—to say nothing of the masters in Her Majesty’s
-Navy.[64]
-
-So far as the North Sea goes, which is the principal scene of Norwegian
-navigation, this mode of reckoning is considerably assisted by the
-lead,—indeed, it would be hardly too much to say that these timber ships
-are navigated by the lead alone. The soundings of the whole North Sea are
-accurately marked, and it so happens that there is considerable variety
-in the sand which the arming brings up; besides which there are a good
-many “pits,” as they are called—that is to say, small spaces, some of
-them not a mile across, in which, for some unexplained reason, the depth
-is suddenly increased. Should the ship be so fortunate as to strike one
-of these, they are so accurately noted in the charts, that it is as good
-as a fresh departure.
-
-It was about a week or ten days after the Naze—the last point of
-Norway—had faded from their sight, like a dim blue cloud, that the
-Parson was sitting or lying at the foot of the foremast in a soft niche,
-which he had arranged for himself among the deck timber, and had called
-his study. He was reading, for the books which they had brought with
-them, and which, hitherto, they had had neither time nor inclination
-to look into, were now very acceptable indeed. The Captain, sitting on
-the bulwark abreast of him, and steadying himself by the after-swifter,
-was watching the proceedings of some visitors who had come on board the
-preceding evening—a kestrel and half-a-dozen swallows. The swallows
-were so tired when they came on board, that they readily perched on the
-fingers that were held out to them, and one of them had passed the night
-on the battens in the mate’s cabin. The hawk did not seem a bit the worse
-for his journey; he was seated very composedly on the quarter of the
-top-gallant yard close to the mast, where he was pleasantly occupied in
-preparing his breakfast off one of the swallows, who had risen earlier
-than his companions, and who did not exactly realise the proverb about
-the “early bird finding the worm,”—on the contrary, he had been found
-himself, and was thus ministering to the wants of the hungry, while his
-brethren, having now recovered their strength by their night’s rest, were
-flitting unconcernedly about the masts and yards, just as on shore they
-had flitted round the church steeple, and were wondering, no doubt, what
-had become of all the flies.
-
-“As this is only the middle of September,” said the Parson, looking up
-at the birds, “it is evident that the migration of swallows must begin
-in the North first, and that previous to their leaving our shores, the
-English swallows must receive a large addition to their numbers; a fact
-which, so far as I know, naturalists have not noticed.”
-
-“Or else,” said the Captain, “that they shift their quarters, like a
-regiment that has got its route, and march by detachments—one relieving
-the other. Ah!”—with a long sigh—“I wish I had wings like a swallow!”
-
-“Pooh! nonsense!” said the Parson; “we shall get on shore some time or
-other; everyone does, except the ‘ancient mariner.’ ‘Good times, bad
-times, all times pass over.’”
-
-“So they do; but all this is so much waste of life. Here am I, sitting
-dangling my legs over the sides of this cursed brig, knowing all the time
-that my friends are knocking the partridges about. Who can give me back
-my 1st of September? Besides,” he added, in a grumbling tone, “I want a
-clean dinner, if it is only by way of a novelty; I can rough it as well
-as anyone for the time, as you know, but a course of such living as this
-will poison a man.”
-
-The Parson laughed.
-
-“It does, I assure you! I have often seen it in the West Indies; when a
-nigger takes to eating dirt, he always dies, and I should think a little
-of that would go a great way with a white man.”
-
-“Well, you know it is said that ‘every man must eat his peck of dirt in
-the course of his life.’”
-
-“That’s exactly the thing; we are allowed a peck of dirt, as you say, to
-last our lives, but you see if we stay here much longer, we shall soon
-get to the end of our allowance. What do you think I saw yesterday? When
-I went below, I could smell the cook had been there; you say yourself
-that you are always obliged to open the skylight whenever he comes near
-the cabin. You know what a beastly miserable day it was, and as I had
-nothing to do, I thought I would turn in and try to sleep away a little
-time, and get a little warm. I felt the pillow rather too high, and,
-putting my hand under it, I found the dish of plok fiske we were to
-have for dinner stowed away there to keep it warm! Bother that skipper,
-he is going about again,” as the Norwegian equivalent for “raise tacks
-and sheets” came grumbling on his ear, and the men lounged lazily to
-their stations; “he’s as frightened at the shore as if it was Scylla and
-Charybdis, and the Mäelström into the bargain. If he would only hold on
-three or four hours more, we might sight Flamborough Head, and get on
-board an English collier and enjoy a little cleanliness.”
-
-“Ah! you will not enjoy that luxury for this voyage,” said the Parson;
-“the English ships always keep inside the line of sandbanks on the
-Norfolk coast; almost all we have met outside, as you may have remarked,
-are foreigners.”
-
-“Outside barbarians!” said the Captain, who was not in a good humour.
-
-By this time the clue-garnets had been leisurely manned, one at a time,
-and the mainsail was hanging in festoons from its yard; Torgensen himself
-steering, as, indeed, he had done for the last hour, and also giving the
-word of command. The wind was as light as could be, so that it really did
-not signify, except for fidgettiness, on which tack she was.
-
-The helm had been a-lee for about a minute, and the men were at their
-stations for “mainsail haul,” while the brig went creeping and creeping
-into the wind. The men began sniggering and joking to one another,
-but their jokes being Norwegian, were for the most part lost on the
-passengers.
-
-“What is that young fool about?” said the Parson, who had not risen from
-his recumbent posture; “he will have the brig in irons before he can look
-round. Jump up and see what is the matter.”
-
-The Captain scrambled on to the forebitts, so as to look over the
-hurricane-house, and burst out laughing. “Bother the fellow! if he is
-not reading ‘Peter Simple,’[65] and jamming his helm hard a-lee with his
-hinder end. Why, Torgensen! Torgensen! what the Devil are you about? the
-brig has been in the wind this half-hour!”
-
-Torgensen started up, flinging his book on the deck, righted his helm,
-and bellowed out his next command. It was loud enough to startle the
-mermaids in their coral caves; but noise will not compensate for
-slackness; the brig was already nearly head to wind, and there she
-hung—she would not go an inch farther for any one, and at last fell off
-again. Torgensen was obliged to wear her, after all.
-
-He swore, however, he did it on purpose, in order to get a cast of the
-lead, as he had not got one for the whole watch. This did not seem to the
-Parson so very indispensable, seeing that in the whole of that forenoon
-watch they had not shifted their position four miles; nevertheless, to
-suit the action to the word, Torgensen did lay his main top-sail aback,
-and armed his lead with as much gravity as if he really expected that the
-sand and shells brought up by this cast would be different from the sand
-and shells brought up by the last.
-
-“I tell you what, though, ‘it is an ill wind that blows nobody good,’—we
-may get a cod while Torgensen is sending his note to the mermaids; jump
-below and get up the lines. The rind of that ham we had for breakfast
-will be a dainty such as Tom Cod is not likely to meet with often in the
-haaf, and it will be a pleasing variety to that eternal plok fiske, if
-we can get one. By the way, that salt fish has got desperately hard; I
-saw the carpenter pounding our dinner with the back of his axe yesterday,
-before the cook could do anything with it.”
-
-Whether Tom Cod would have been duly sensible of the honour that was done
-him, and would have accepted the line of invitation which the Captain
-had sent him for the next day’s dinner, it is impossible to say, for,
-unfortunately, he never received it. The whole bank abounded with hungry
-dog fish, and the bait never got a dozen fathoms over the side before
-it was seized by them. However, it was all fish that came to net; dog
-fish are not esteemed on shore, but place the diner on board ship, give
-him three weeks of calms and foul winds, short provisions, and those
-provisions principally dried fish, with a piece of salt horse for a
-luxury on Sunday, and even dog fish will come to be appreciated at their
-just value.
-
-It was about the middle of the dog watch in the same day—when, according
-to the theory of the Norwegian marine, everybody is supposed to be on
-deck for his own pleasure, and, according to matter of fact, everybody is
-below, sleeping, or talking, or cooking, or mending his clothes,—when the
-Parson, whose time began to hang a little weary on his hands, was yawning
-about the _Haabet’s_ quarter-deck, with his hands in his pockets.
-
-The Norwegian dog watch must not be confounded with the English watches
-of the same name. In the Swedish or Norwegian navy, the twenty-four
-hours are divided into five watches instead of seven, as with us. These,
-beginning at 8 p.m., are called the first watch, the night watch, the
-morning watch, the forenoon watch, and the dog watch, respectively, of
-which the first four consist of four hours each, and the last of eight.
-The dog watch comprehends the time from noon to 8 p.m. It is, of course,
-impossible for human strength and human endurance to keep it properly,
-but it is permitted to be kept in a slack sort of way by the whole ship’s
-company conjointly, one watch being indeed responsible for the duty, but
-not being forbidden to go below, provided their place, for the time, be
-taken by amateurs.[66] The natural effect of this is, that the whole
-watch is kept very slackly indeed, even in men-of-war; in fact, at the
-particular time specified, there was no one whatever on the deck of the
-_Haabet_, except Torgensen, who, as before, was steering, and the Parson,
-who had come on deck because the Captain was snoring so loud, and who, as
-luck would have it, was looking over the bulwarks to windward.
-
-The day had continued calm and hot, as September days often are, and the
-ship was not many miles from the place in which she had missed stays in
-the morning. She was close hauled, but carrying everything that would
-draw.
-
-“Torgensen,” said he, “I think you had better look out; there is
-something coming down upon us, that looks very like an invitation from
-your friends the mermaids.[67] I should like to send an excuse.”
-
-“O, The Thousand!” said Torgensen: “God forgive me for swearing, at
-such a time;” and shoving the helm into the Parson’s hands, he seized a
-handspike, and began to belabour the deck.
-
-On all ordinary occasions there had been a good deal of republican
-slackness on board the _Haabet_, the men doing what they were told, but
-doing it leisurely, and in a _nonchalant_ sort of way. It did not much
-signify, for in blue water and calm weather, it makes little difference
-whether the manœuvres are performed smartly or not.[68] But assuming
-the handspike was like taking up the dictatorship; there was no want of
-smartness now; the men buzzed out from their hurricane-house, like bees
-out of a hive, some half dressed, some stuffing a handful of plok fiske
-into their mouths, but all rushing to their stations, as if the very
-tautest-handed boatswain in the British service was at their heels.
-
-It so happened that Torgensen had been fitting up a fore-sail of his
-own, which he called a fok; a stoutish spar held the place of foot rope,
-which, though it diminished the area of the sail, certainly had the
-effect of making it stand better when close hauled; but that which he
-prided himself most upon, was his substitute for clue-garnets, which
-consisted of two ropes, which, rove through blocks at the quarter of
-the yard, led before the sail through a block at the clue, then to the
-yard-arm, and then along the yard; thus, embracing the sail, acting as
-spilling-lines and clue-garnets at once, and hauling it up, as it were,
-like a curtain in a theatre.
-
-The square main-sail was by this time clewed up, and, had not
-Torgensen’s head been full of this invention, he probably would have seen
-the necessity of casting off the sheet of the fore and aft main-sail, as
-he passed, supposing he had not time or hands to man the brails; as it
-was, the fore-sail came in most sweetly, and Torgensen, forgetting his
-captainship, skipped up the rigging, and was out at the weather earring,
-like a monkey up a cocoa-nut tree.
-
-Just then the squall struck her. Naturally the brig carried a lee helm,
-but at this moment, relieved of her fore-sail, and at the same time
-pressed upon by the whole force of the squall in her main-sail, she
-griped obstinately,—a propensity which the Parson had originated by
-steering as near as he could, in order to shake the wind out of the
-top-sails while the men were reefing. Things began to look serious; not a
-soul was on deck, every man being out on the yards, which, so soon as the
-sails began thrashing in the wind, jumped and jerked so furiously, that
-it was as much as any of them could do to hold on; the brig lay over, so
-that the water not only bubbled through her scuppers, but came pouring
-in over her bulwarks, and the Parson, with both hands clutching the
-bulwarks, was driving the helm a-weather with his stomach, while his feet
-were slipping one after the other on the wet and slanting deck.
-
-Just at that moment the Captain—his coat and shoes off, his head tied
-up in a pocket handkerchief, and his eyes scarce opened, just as he had
-roused up from his slumbers,—showed an astonished face above the hatchway.
-
-“Hallo! what’s the matter now? who spilt the milk?”
-
-“Jump! and let go that main-sheet! cut it if you can’t get at it any
-other way! but take the sail off her at any rate, or in two minutes we
-shall be at Fiddler’s Green.”
-
-The Captain was wide enough awake to see that things were rather too
-serious for a joke, and scrambled up to windward as well as he could.
-Round rattled the sheaves, as if they would set fire to their blocks;
-away flew the sheet through them, the slack of it whipping the deck right
-and left, and barely missing the Captain, while the end of the main boom
-plunged into the water, wetting the sail half way up. The brig, eased
-of the strain, slowly and reluctantly paid off, while Torgensen, still
-seated at the weather yard-arm, with his legs twisted round it, holding
-on by the earring with both hands, with his breast straining against the
-lift to which he seemed to be holding on with his chin, and his hat, the
-while, which had been secured round his neck by a lanyard, fluttering and
-dancing to leeward, just nodded down on deck, as if to say, “all right my
-boys, I knew you would do the needful,” and then went on with his work as
-if nothing particular had happened.
-
-The squall, however, was only the prelude to a change of wind; in less
-than an hour’s time she was able, not only to shake out her reefs again,
-but to lie her course, and to jog along it merrily.
-
-Towards the close of the next day they were looking out sharp for the
-Outer Garboard Buoy, which, out of sight of land, marks the mouth of the
-Thames, and, strange to say, after a cruise of three weeks’ traverse
-sailing, hit it to a nicety,[69] and on the following morning, when the
-fishermen came on deck, they had the satisfaction of seeing, for the
-first time since the Naze had sunk in the horizon, not only land, but
-land on both sides of them, of which that on their starboard beam bore a
-very strong resemblance to the old South Foreland.
-
-“England again!” said the Captain. “Hurrah for England and
-partridges!—what the deuce are you squinting at on the French coast,
-Parson?”
-
-“A very interesting sight for us,” said the Parson, putting the telescope
-into his hands, “though not on the French coast; look at that sail, and
-tell me what you make of her.”
-
-The Captain took a long view. “A lugger I think, coming down before the
-wind, wing-and-wing.”
-
-“The very thing, and of course bound for England: if all goes right, we
-shall nearly cross her, and that in less than an hour.”
-
-“Then hurrah for a leg of mutton!”—for it should be said the _Haabet_ was
-bound for Bordeaux, to exchange her timber for the light St. Julien’s
-claret, of which so much is drunk in the north, and the fishermen had
-taken their passage in her on the chance, which amounted to almost
-a certainty, of meeting with an English coaster that would put them
-on shore somewhere. This they had not been able to meet with on the
-east coast, for foreigners are too much afraid of the shoals to allow
-themselves to go near a track which, by English vessels, is as well
-beaten as a turnpike road.
-
-“A leg of mutton!” said the Parson; “you are as bad as a Swede,—always
-thinking of your dinner.”
-
-“Upon my word, I have eaten such a lot of trash in that country that it
-is very excusable to long for the sweet simplicity of English roast and
-boiled; we have not had one single wholesome, unsophisticated meal since
-we got there; it was all grease, and sugar, and gravy, and preserves,
-except, indeed, where we boiled our own salmon on the Torjedahl, or
-toasted our own ‘mutton,’ as Moodie calls it, at the skal.”
-
-“Ah, poor Moodie! I wonder whether he has found out yet that mutton is
-not made out of elk’s meat? But that lugger is nearing us fast; I think
-we had better talk to Torgensen about it, and get our traps on deck.”
-
-Torgensen was sorry to part with his passengers, and they, though to a
-certain extent reciprocating his grief, were much more sorry to part
-from Torgensen than from the _Haabet_. But, sorry or glad, it was all
-the same, the brig and the lugger, on their respective courses, rapidly
-approached each other; a weft hoisted by the former was answered by the
-latter, and, in a few minutes, her mast-heads were seen bobbing about
-over the brig’s lee quarter.
-
-Less than half a minute sufficed to transfer the fishermen and their
-belongings from one deck to the other, and then, hands shaking,—caps
-waving,—hoist away the lugs,—and up-helm for merry England.
-
-Away flew the lugger, “her white wings flying,”—it could not be added
-“never from her foes,” for she turned out afterwards to be a noted
-smuggler that no revenue cutter could ever catch. Up rose the white
-cliffs,—plainer and plainer grew the objects on shore: now the white
-houses of Dover came in view,—then the sheep on the downs, and the men on
-the piers,—then the rising sunbeams flashed back a merry welcome from the
-windows,—then the pier-heads opened, with the tide bubbling up against
-them like a river in flood, which, taking the lugger under the counter,
-gave her a final slew, as she rushed between them,—then through the inner
-harbour, and down sails, carrying on with the way already acquired,—then
-run up alongside the Custom-house quay.
-
-“Home at last!” said the Captain, as he leaped on shore.
-
-_Hic longæ finis chartæque viæque._
-
-
-THE END.
-
-PRINTED BY COX (BROS.) AND WYMAN, GREAT QUEEN STREET.
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES
-
-
-[1] The families of Lejonhöved and Svinhöved were conspicuous in the wars
-of Gustavus Vasa, at which time Sweden threw off the yoke which Denmark,
-with the concurrence of Norway, had fixed on them, by taking undue
-advantage of the conditions stipulated in the Union of Calmar. The head
-of the former family perished in the treacherous massacre at Stockholm,
-generally spoken of by the name of the “Bloodbath.” Both families derive
-their names from their armorial bearings, as at that time there were no
-surnames in Sweden. These signify Lion-head and Boar-head, or Pig-head,
-respectively. Hence the Parson’s sarcasm.
-
-[2] Långref—a poaching method of catching fish.
-
-[3] Tjäder—the capercailzie. Taking him in his lek—that is to say, during
-his play, a very singular method which both the tjäder and the black-cock
-has of calling together the females of their respective species, is
-strictly contrary to law.
-
-[4] Fjeld Ripa—The mountain grouse; a bird something like our ptarmigan,
-the pursuit of which is always attended with toil, and sometimes danger.
-
-[5] According to ancient Scandinavian mythology, the earth, which is flat
-and surrounded by water, is continually guarded by Jörmungard the Sea
-Serpent, the daughter of Loki; who is so large that she encircles the
-whole earth, holding her tail in her mouth. She is sometimes called the
-Midgard Serpent;—Midgard meaning middle guard half way between the earth
-and the realms of the Hrimthursar, or Frost Giants, which is her post.
-
-[6] The god Kvasir, or Unerring Wisdom, was the joint offspring of all
-the gods, and was created to aid their negociations with the Vanir.
-His blood, sweetened by mead, forms the drink of Poetic Inspiration,
-which was guarded by Gunlauth, the daughter of Thjassi, the chief of
-the Frost Giants. Odin, who was her lover, prevailed on her to give it
-up to him, and it is at present lodged in the heights of Asgard. That
-Poetic Inspiration should be wisdom, sweetened by honey and guarded by
-love, is in itself a beautiful allegory—and not less beautiful that it
-should be won by the gods and lodged in Heaven;—but the generation of
-Kvasir involves a most curious anomaly, and that is, that the gods should
-be able to create a being more intelligent than themselves,—unless,
-indeed, we interpret the allegory as implying that mutual council is more
-unerring than the unaided intelligence of any individual.
-
-[7] The Indelta has very erroneously been stated, by one or two
-travellers in Sweden, to be the militia of the country. Sweden has
-a militia, and a very efficient force it is; but the Indelta is a
-feudal army raised and maintained by the holders of crown lands. The
-constitution of this force will be explained more fully hereafter; it is
-exclusively a Swedish institution, and does not exist in Norway.
-
-[8] “Come over the river.”
-
-[9] “Quick, here, with the boat! and so you shall have some money for
-drink.”
-
-[10] One of the wild ideas of Scandinavian mythology is, that the sun
-is the eye of Odin, and that he once had two like other people; but,
-that coming one day to the well of Mimiver, the waters of which are pure
-wisdom, he bargained for a draught, and bought the horn gjoll full at
-the price of one of his eyes; no such great quantity either, if gjoll be
-the original of our English gill. However, this fully accounts for the
-fact that the moon is not now so bright as the sun, which it probably
-once was. It must be confessed that the whole of this story is entirely
-inconsistent with the theory of the sun and moon in the prose “Edda,”
-where these are represented as separate and independent divinities, the
-son and daughter of the giant Mundilfari,—the sun being feminine and the
-moon masculine; a tradition contrary to the notions of our poets, but
-fully borne out by our English peasants, who invariably speak of the moon
-as “he,” and the sun as “she.”
-
-[11] Full-grown salmon have two or three ranges of very small teeth,
-whereas grauls (Scoticè, grilse) have only one. It is this distinction
-which, on the Erne, is technically termed “the mask,” and not the size,
-which determines the difference between a graul and a salmon.
-
-[12] An ort, or mark, is the fifth part of a specie-daler, equivalent to
-ninepence or tenpence of our money. A skilling is about the same as an
-English halfpenny; the word, however, is pronounced exactly the same as
-our English word shilling, the _k_ being soft before _i_; a circumstance
-which rather perplexes the stranger in his calculations.
-
-[13] Since the abolition of capital punishment in Norway—a measure
-that does not seem to answer at all—murderers are confined, like other
-criminals, in the castle at Christiania. They may be seen in dresses of
-which each sleeve and leg has its own colour, sweeping the streets and
-doing other public work; and a very disgusting sight it is. The average
-of crime is very high in Norway—perhaps higher than in any country known,
-and particularly crimes of violence. This may be accounted for, partly
-by their wonderful drunkenness, and partly by the very inefficient state
-of the Church, and the almost total absence of the religious element in
-an education which is artificially forced by state enactments. In Norway
-there is a very great disproportion between intellect and religion.
-
-[14] Manchester has its faults, and a good many of them, but among them
-all its Anglo-Saxon virtue of order and capacity for self-government come
-out in strong relief.
-
-“Where are your policemen?” asked the Duke, as he glanced at the masses
-that thronged the streets during the Queen’s visit,—perhaps the largest
-crowd that had ever been collected in England. The streets of the Borough
-of Manchester were not staked and corded off, and guarded by men in blue;
-but thousands of strong, active warehousemen and mechanics formed, by
-joining hands, a novel barricade. And in the evening, when numbers beyond
-computation were assembled in the streets to witness the illumination,
-amidst all the confusion there was nothing but good-humour.—_Fraser._
-
-[15] Alluding to a custom in Norway, of mixing the inner rind of the
-birch tree with their rye meal, during times of scarcity.
-
-[16] The fisherman is very much recommended to tie his own flies for
-the Tay, or to get them at Edmondson’s. The author bought a good many
-pretty-looking specimens in the country, by way of patterns, all of
-which whipped to pieces in half-an-hour’s fishing. The fact is, there
-is a cheap way of tying flies, which it is impossible to detect by the
-eye; and it is just as well that the young fisherman should ask the
-_character_ of his tackle-maker before investing his money in such very
-ticklish wares; the worthlessness of which he will not find out till he
-reaches his fishing-ground. The author, a fisherman of some experience,
-has tied a good many flies in his time, and has had a good many tied
-for him by his attendants and other professionals on the river’s banks;
-but the only tradespeople he has ever found trustworthy, in all points,
-in such matters are, Chevalier, of Bell-yard, London, and Edmondson, of
-Church-street, Liverpool. Their flies have never failed him, whether in
-their hooks, their gut, or their tying. All that the fisherman will want
-in their shops will be a little science, to enable him to choose his
-colours, _and a little money to enable him to pay his bills_.
-
-[17] The real scene of this piscatorial exploit is on the Mandahl river.
-There is a Hell Fall on the Torjedahl also; indeed, the name is common
-in Norway, and in Sweden too, so as to become almost generic for a dark,
-gloomy rush of waters; but the Hell Fall of the Torjedahl is inaccessible
-to salmon, which, notwithstanding all that Inglis says to the contrary,
-are unable to surmount the great falls of Wigeland about a mile below it.
-It is, therefore, worthless as a fishing-place; and, the author suspects,
-altogether too dangerous to be attempted without good reason. When the
-water is low, the fall of the Mandahl may be fished in the ordinary
-manner from a boat, and it is well worth the trial; but if the river be
-full, the birch rope will be found necessary.
-
-[18] The lower part of the Torjedahl is perfectly free from musquitoes,
-which cannot be said of all the rivers in Norway; this probably is owing
-to its rapidity, and to the absence of all tributaries and still water.
-
-[19] It is no inaccuracy to give Birger a Scotch song, for there is a
-considerable infusion of Scotch blood among the Swedes, and Scotch family
-names are by no means uncommon among the nobility. In fact, Scotch names
-are to be met with even in their national ballads: for instance—
-
- It was young Folmer Skot
- Who rode by dale and hill,
- And after rides Morton of Fogelsang,
- Who bids him hear his will.
-
-[20] The thirtieth of April.
-
-[21]
-
- Lie still, my child;
- In the morning comes Fin
- Thy father,
- And gives thee Esberne Snorre’s eyes and heart to play with.
-
-[22] Esberne Snorre is the Danish Faust. In no country whatever was
-the reformation popular among the peasantry, and therefore the popular
-legends invariably assign the leaders and causes of it to the devil, as
-in the case of Faust himself, who, whatever Goëthe may say, really was
-a very respectable tradesman, and had no more to do with the devil than
-is involved in the invention of that art which became so powerful an
-instrument in the hands of reformers—printing. Esberne Snorre was what
-very few of the Danish Reformers were, a really good and conscientious
-man, who might well have built the Church of Kallendborg, or even have
-given his eyes for it. Nevertheless, pre-eminently before all the
-reformers, the devil carries him off bodily in every legend of the time,
-just as he did Faust.
-
-[23] Equivalent to “spoiling a market” in Ireland, or “opening a
-Sheriff’s ball” in England,—“Goth’s garden” being the cant name for a
-place of execution in Stockholm, which is adorned with permanent gibbets,
-and is so called from the name of the first man who was hanged there.
-The saying is Swedish, not Norwegian, not only because it is local, but
-because there are no capital punishments at all in Norway.
-
-[24] Christina, daughter of the great Gustavus Adolphus, a popular
-and able sovereign, abdicated voluntarily,—wearied of the toils of
-government,—and is said to have uttered some such speech as that
-attributed to her by Torkel on crossing the little stream which in those
-days separated her late dominions from those of Denmark.
-
-[25] Between “the two lights,”—that is to say, twilight,—is always the
-time in which all spirits of the middle earth have the greatest power;
-of course the reason is, that seen indistinctly in the doubtful light
-of morning or evening, natural objects take strange forms, and exhibit
-appearances which are ascribed to the supernatural.
-
-[26] A sort of scallop, of very beautiful colour.
-
-[27] In the Swedish Church there used to be a regular private confession
-made to the priest before every Communion, on which occasion an
-offertory, called confession-money, was deposited on the altar. It is,
-indeed, the rule of the Church still, though, since a royal ordinance, in
-1686, forbade penitents to select their own confessors, confining them to
-the priest of their parish, the custom has fallen into disuse; still the
-old expressions are frequently retained.
-
-[28] The mal is said to be a great-headed, wide-mouthed monster, with
-a long beard, of the same colour as the eel; and, like the eel, slimy
-and without any perceptible scales. It is said to grow to the length of
-twelve or fourteen feet, to weigh three or four hundred pounds, and to
-carry on his back fin a strong, sharp lance, which it can elevate or
-depress at pleasure. It is supposed to lie seeking whom or what it may
-devour in the deepest and muddiest holes of rivers or lakes. The author
-has heard this fish talked of very often, but has never seen one, and
-believes fully that it may safely be classed with the Black Horse, the
-Mid-Gard Serpent, and Dr. Clarke’s Furia Infernalis.
-
-[29] The leading fish of each shoal, or school, as it is called,—usually
-a salmon of considerable weight and experience—is so termed by the Irish
-fishermen.
-
-[30] Frue is properly a title of nobility, and is of Danish origin. No
-Norwegian titles date earlier than the Union of Kalmar. These, however,
-have been all abolished by a Storthing, which, consisting mostly of
-peasants, set itself strongly against aristocratical distinctions; and,
-taking advantage of that clause in the constitution which provides,
-that if a bill be carried three times it overrides the king’s veto,
-have succeeded in abolishing them. Habit and custom, however, are
-stronger than parliaments; and the mistress of a wealthy establishment
-is frequently designated, not by her husband’s name, but as Lady Marie,
-Lady Brigetta, or, as in the present case, Lady Christina—for that is the
-meaning of the title Frue.
-
-[31] Not many years ago, the “summer parlour” was the only room in any
-house that had windows that would open.
-
-[32] All livings in Norway have a dowager-house and farm belonging to
-them, for the widow of the late incumbent. At her death, it passes back
-to the present possessor of the living.
-
-[33] Deep water.
-
-[34]
-
- Here the Neck strikes his harp in his city of glass,
- And the Mermaids comb out their bright hair, green as grass,
- And bleach here their glittering clothes.
-
-[35] Those who are drowned at sea, and whose bodies are never recovered,
-are said to have been enticed away to the mermaids’ caves beneath the
-deep water.
-
-[36] Those who are lost and starved to death in the forest—a thing which
-is of perpetual occurrence,—are said to be detained through the love of
-the Skogsfrue.
-
-[37]
-
- “We fly from day’s dazzling light,
- But we joy in the shades of night,—
- Though we journey on earth, our home must be
- Beneath the shell of the earth and the sea.”
-
- _Mathisen._
-
-[38] This legend is taken from the Brage Rädur, which, in the original,
-is obscure enough. Finn Magnussen, however, seems to have hit upon the
-right interpretation of it, which we have followed here. His explanation,
-as given in “Blackwell’s Northern Antiquities,” is this:—“Iduna,
-the ever-renovating Spring-being, in the possession of Thjasse, the
-desolating Winter,—all nature languishes until she is delivered from her
-captivity. On this being effected, her presence again diffuses joy and
-gladness, and all things revive; while her pursuer, Winter, with his icy
-breath, dissolves in the solar rays, indicated by the fires lighted on
-the walls of Asgard.”
-
-[39] Niord and his wife, Skadi, had naturally some disputes about their
-future residence,—he preferring the brightness of his own palace,
-Noatun, she very naturally yearning after Thrymheim, the abode of her
-chilly father. The dispute was referred to Forseti, the son of Baldur,
-the heavenly attorney-general, who decided that they should alternately
-occupy Noatun for three months and Thrymheim for nine,—which is about the
-Norwegian proportion of summer and winter.
-
- “Thrymheim, the land
- Where Thjasse abode,
- That mightiest of giants,—
- But snow-skating Skadi
- Now dwells there, I trow,
- In her father’s old mansion.”
-
- _Elder Edda._
-
-[40] A proof of the authenticity of this legend is to be found in the
-etymology of the word, “gate,” (gatin—the street), being a Norwegian word.
-
-[41] Hermod and Baldur were both sons of Odin. That is to say, Courage
-and Innocence are both children of Heavenly Wisdom.
-
-[42] The moral of this legend is admirable. The Principle of Evil is of
-itself powerless against the Principle of Good, until it is assisted by
-well-intentioned, but blind Prejudice; but that same Prejudice, after its
-enlightenment, becomes its partner and ally.
-
-[43] An attentive reader, who is also a fisherman, will see, by reverting
-to the time which the adventures in the Torjedahl and Soberud-dahl must
-have taken, that this voyage must have taken place much later in the
-year than the 24th of June, and that consequently he could not have seen
-the bale-fires he describes. The fact is, the author made two visits to
-Christiansand; he arrived there in June, but, finding the snow-water
-still in the river, he made a voyage among the islands, to occupy
-the time, and visited the place again at the end of July. To prevent
-unnecessary confusion, the incidents of both these visits are told
-together; but the fisherman must not conclude from this, that anything
-is to be done in any of the Tellemarken rivers before the second week in
-July.
-
-[44] The whole Norwegian navy consists of one frigate, two corvettes,
-two brigs, three schooners, and a hundred and forty of these gun-boats.
-The Swedes, who have upon the whole rather a powerful navy, considering
-the poverty of their country,—that is to say, thirteen line-of-battle
-ships, fourteen frigates, some of them very heavy ones, and twenty-two
-steamers—possess also three hundred of these gun-boats. They carry
-generally one long tomer forward, and sometimes a carronade, sometimes
-a smaller gun aft. They are quite open, except a couple of bunks for
-the officers’ sleeping places, pull from twenty to thirty oars, and are
-generally sent to sea in squadrons, with a frigate or corvette to take
-care of them,—like an old duck with a brood of ducklings. The frigate
-forms a rallying point and place of refuge, as well as a place of rest,
-for the crews are changed from time to time, and in their turns enjoy a
-week’s rest and cover on board of her.
-
-[45] In Sweden there really is an order of the Seraphim, and in Denmark
-one of the Elephant,—for the Goose and Gridiron we will not vouch.
-
-[46] That ancient and distinguished family are said to read Gen. vi.
-4 thus: “And there were Grants in the earth in those days.” The word
-“giants” being, according to the best authorities in that family, a
-modern reading.
-
-[47] Bjornstjerna, a not uncommon name in Sweden, signifies “bear’s star.”
-
-[48] Bör, civilized man,—from _beran_, to bear; the same etymology as
-that of _barn_, a child. Ymir, Chaos,—literally, a confused noise; the
-meaning is, “before civilization had subdued Chaos.”
-
-[49] It must be remembered that the letter o, in Swedish, is pronounced
-like our oo, and that the g before ä e i ö, as well as the final g, is
-pronounced like the English y; the word “Modige,” therefore, will be
-pronounced very like the English word “Moodie.”
-
-[50] _Rubus Chamœmorus_; called in the country, _Möltebär_.
-
-[51] Baldur’s Eye-brow—_Anthemis Cotula._—LINN.
-
-[52] The Puritan Abbott, Archbishop of Canterbury, got into great
-trouble from his sporting propensities. One day, as he was shooting with
-Lord de le Zouch, at Branshill Park, he shot a keeper. According to
-canon law, a clergyman killing a man becomes, from that time forward,
-incapable of performing any clerical function; and three Bishops elect
-refused consecration at his hand,—“Not,” as they said, “out of enmity or
-superstition, but to be wary that they might not be attainted with the
-contagion of his scandal and uncanonical condition.” He was re-instated
-by a committee of Bishops, appointed for the purpose, but never entirely
-recovered his position.
-
-[53] According to Scandinavian mythology, the sacred ash of Yggdrasil,
-which typifies the Vital Principle of the world, has seated on
-its topmost boughs an eagle, bearing perched between his eyes a
-falcon,—emblematic of Energy and Activity.
-
-[54] According to the Prose Edda, the gods had originally no poetry in
-their souls. The mead of Poetic Inspiration was in the keeping of the
-giant Suttung, who entrusted it to his daughter, Gunlauth. Odin made
-love to her,—obtained possession of the mead, and deserted her. He had,
-however, the grace to be ashamed of himself, for these are the words of
-the Hávamál, in which he evidently alludes to this not very creditable
-passage in his life:
-
- “Gunlauth gave me,
- On a golden chair seated,
- A draught of mead delicious;
- But the return was evil
- Which she experienced,—
- With all her faithfulness—
- With all her deep love!
-
- “A holy ring oath
- I mind me gave Odin,—
- Now, who can trust him?
- Suttung is cheated—
- His mead is stolen—
- Gunlauth is weeping!”
-
-[55] A Norwegian slang expression, for “early rising.”
-
-[56] There is a beautiful superstition—if it is not a real religious
-truth—in Norway, that those we have loved best on earth become our unseen
-guardians, and follow us always, to warn us of danger.
-
-[57]
-
- “Then shall brethren be
- Each other’s bane,
- And sister’s children rend
- The ties of kin.
-
- “Hard will be the age,
- And harlotry prevail,—
- An axe-age, a sword-age—
- Shields oft cleft in twain,—
- A storm-age, a wolf-age,
- Ere earth shall meet its doom.”
-
- _The Völuspà._
-
-[58] Stags are not common so far north, but they are to be met with now
-and then. Elks are much more often seen, and are now pretty plentiful.
-In the days of which the author is writing, the Game Laws were, on paper
-at least, very strict about both elks and red-deer. Time was, when
-the former of these were classed with the bear and the lynx, and were
-absolutely outlawed as noxious beasts. At the time the author was in
-Sweden, the laws had gone to the other extreme, and they were absolutely
-protected,—everybody being forbidden to shoot them; a prohibition which,
-though it prevented men from going after them openly, was, in fact, as
-little regarded as most laws are in the fjeld. Now, they may be shot,
-only under certain restrictions.
-
-[59] A cant phrase in Sweden, for “going on foot.”
-
-[60] The only time the author ever did get a sight of one was in the
-fjeld on the right bank of the Gotha, near Trollhättan, when he was
-making his way through some tangled ground in search of a lake, which
-lies at no very great distance from the fall. On leaping down from a
-low ledge of rock, he very nearly pitched upon the top of a filfras, as
-much to his own surprise as that of the beast. He struck at him with his
-spiked fishing-rod—the only weapon he had with him. Fortunately for both
-parties, as he now thinks, he missed him; so they parted, much to their
-mutual satisfaction, and have not met since.
-
-[61] Nalle is the cant name for the bear kind, as with us Reynard is the
-cant name for a fox.
-
-[62] “Rig,” the earthly name of Heimdall, the watcher of Heaven’s gate,
-when he disguises himself to go skylarking on earth. Hence the slang
-expression, “Running a Rig.”
-
-[63] The Sun and Moon are continually pursued by the wolf Fenrir and her
-progeny, who sometimes nearly catch her. Hence the eclipses.
-
-[64] The author will not answer for his orthography in the word
-“pein-compassen.” He can work a reckoning by it, but has never seen it
-spelt.
-
-[65] There is no book so popular in Sweden as what they call “Peter
-Simpel aff Kapten Marrjatt.”
-
-[66] In Preadamite times—that is to say, the times of Drake and
-Raleigh—this was the custom of the English service also; but it having
-been discovered that “what is everybody’s business is nobody’s business,”
-and that accidents and negligences were continually happening during the
-dog watch, a regular afternoon watch was established, and the dog watch
-reduced to four hours, and divided into two; so that the whole ship’s
-company could relieve one another systematically, and not, as before,
-by private arrangement; and that the whole could have two uninterrupted
-hours below, between four and eight in the evening, for their evening
-meal, or any other occupation. The whole afternoon watch was called the
-dog watch, because in the full light,—and Norwegian ships did not go to
-sea in the winter because they were frozen up,—the work was supposed to
-be so easy that the dogs were sufficient to keep it.
-
-[67] Those drowned at sea, whose bodies are never found, are supposed
-to have been invited by the mermaids to their caves, and to have been
-fascinated by the beauty of their entertainers. Homer’s story of the
-Syrens enticing the comrades of Ulysses, has some such foundation.
-
-[68] The words “smart” and “smartly,” which, at sea, have a signification
-very different from their shore-going meaning, are pieces of
-mis-spelling. They are evidently derived from the Norwegian words “snart”
-and “snartlig,” which bear precisely the same nautical meaning as our
-English words.
-
-[69] This is a literal fact. Three weeks after sailing from
-Christiansand, and seventeen days after losing sight of land of any
-kind,—during which time there had been but two days in which the brig
-could lie her course,—the author was in the fore-rigging, on the look-out
-for the Outer Garboard buoy. He had but small hopes of seeing it, he
-admits, for the brig had been navigated by log, lead, and compass
-alone; nevertheless it is true, that within half-an-hour of his taking
-up his look-out place, and precisely in the direction in which he was
-looking, there was the buoy,—a little black speck, like a dancing boat.
-This, considering that the steamer in which he had gone out—a vessel
-commanded by a lieutenant in her Majesty’s navy—was fifty miles out of
-her reckoning, after a straight course of four days, seemed, to say the
-least, remarkable.
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOREST SCENES IN NORWAY AND
-SWEDEN: BEING EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF A FISHERMAN ***
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