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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Ealing and its Vicinity, by Daniel Frederick
-Edward Sykes
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Ealing and its Vicinity
-
-Author: Daniel Frederick Edward Sykes
-
-Release Date: December 13, 2021 [eBook #66937]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-Produced by: John Parkinson with the kind assistance of Jacqueline Jeremy.
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EALING AND ITS VICINITY ***
-[Transcriber's note: (~denotes smallcaps, for headings, used in the
-html file~)]
-
-
-
-
-Ealing and its Vicinity
-
-
-
-
-D F E Sykes, LL. B.
-
-THE purpose of this brochure is not an ambitious one. It does not
-aspire to rank in antiquarian or topographical interest with the work
-of Mr. Falkener; its modest claim is to tell briefly and in simple
-words such facts connected with the parish of Ealing and its
-neighbourhood as may be reasonably supposed to possess an interest for
-the ordinary resident and for the stranger whom he invites within his
-gates. It is intended to be a great deal less than an erudite tome of
-ancient lore, and a little more than the descriptive prefix usually
-contained in a local Guide or Handbook.
-
-The village of Ealing lies on the northern and southern sides of the
-Uxbridge Road, and is distant about seven miles west from where once
-stood Tyburn Turnpike. The Parish of Ealing is not mentioned in
-Domesday Book but was probably then comprised within the manor of
-Fulham. It is within the Hundred of Ossulstone and the County of
-Middlesex and in the Diocese of London. Its eastern boundaries are,
-Chiswick, Acton and Twyford; its western, New Brentford, Hanwell, and
-Greenford; its northern the river Brent, Harrow and Perivale; its
-southern, the Thames.
-
-Ancient records present many different modes of spelling the name;
-Yelling, Yealinge, Zellin and the one now in vogue. The significance
-of the word does not appear, but it may be connected with Zea-ling
-Bea-meadow. The parish reaches three and a half miles from north to
-south, and two miles one furlong from east to west, and has an acreage
-of about 3,800 acres. It is divided for parochial purposes into the
-Upper or Ealing side, and the Lower or Brentford side, but the
-ratepayers constitute at present one vestry.
-
-The manor of Ealing has belonged from time immemorial to the See of
-London, and the custom of copyhold prevails therein, the tenants’
-holding being evidenced by copy of the Court rolls. The origin of this
-tenure is very obscure, but it would seem to have originated with the
-villeins or tenants in villeinage, who composed most of the
-agricultural population of England for some centuries after the Norman
-Conquest, through the commutation of base services into specific
-rents in money or money’s worth. The predecessors of our copyholders
-were mere tenants at the will of the Lord of the manor, but the
-practice of the Lord’s recognising the claims of the near kindred of
-a deceased tenant to succeed him in his holding gradually ripened
-into a custom which was ultimately established by a decision of the
-Judges in Edward IV’s time, who held that a tenant by copyhold might
-have an action of trespass against the Lord for dispossession. From
-this time copyholders have been in effect freeholders, the difference
-consisting in the method of alienation, and in some instances in the
-obligation to sundry fines, and in the method of descent on
-intestacy.
-
-In the Manor of Ealing the custom of Borough English prevails by
-virtue of which lands descend to the youngest and not, as generally,
-to the eldest son, and if the tenant have no issue to the younger
-brother. The reason of this custom is, says Littleton, that the
-youngest son is presumed in law to be least able to shift for himself.
-This is a curious and interesting mark of the difference between
-feudal or military tenures and copyhold, which were originally
-agricultural. Tenancies in tail or fee simple fell on intestacy to the
-eldest son, because the eldest son was presumably best able to render
-to the feudal lord the military services which were an incident and
-condition of his tenure. In the Manor of Ealing lands descend on
-intestacy to the youngest son, and in default of male issue are
-divisible among the daughters equally. The widow of a copyholder, if a
-spinster at the time of her marriage, is entitled to dower and the
-correlative right of tenancy by the curtesy is recognised. One year’s
-quit rent is payable to the Lord on alienation and on heriotable land,
-three shillings and fourpence in the name of a heriot. The
-heriot--Dano-Saxon “heregeat,” was originally a gift made by a tenant
-to his Lord of his horse and armour. This gift became first usual then
-compulsory, and was subsequently commuted for a money charge. In
-Ealing as in other Manors there are two general courts, held on Easter
-Monday and in the middle or end of November in each year. The Courts
-Leet and Court Baron are held at Hammersmith, and the following is
-the proclamation summoning to the Court:--“All manner of persons that
-owe suit and service to our Sovereign Lady the Queen, or the Court
-Leet and Court Baron of Frederick Temple, Lord Bishop of London Lord
-of the Manor of Ealing, held this day for the said Manor, may give
-attendance here, and come into court and take their admission.” On a
-conveyance of lands a surrender is made in form following:--
-
-
- “You do by me, and by this rod, surrender into the hands of the Lord
- of the Manor of Ealing, all that copyhold messuage, and this
- surrender you make to the use and behalf of A. B. according to the
- custom of the Manor.”
-
-
-The history of most manors up to the time at all events of the great
-development of England as a mercantile power is the history of the
-lord of the manor. If one turns to almost any of the many histories of
-particular towns, it will be found that such accounts are in the main
-those of the fortunes of some noble family. It is inevitable that it
-should be so. During the early times after the complete introduction
-of the feudal system into this country, a town or village was a mere
-appanage of a Lordship. During the wars of Stephen, and in the more
-disastrous wars of the Roses, Manors were in the hands now of this,
-now of that, potent Prince or Lord.
-
-Manors changed their lords with the political seasons. Attainders for
-high treason were of the commonest occurrence, and the Crown seized on
-forfeited lands and transferred them to new favourites. The caprices
-of a Court favourite, the humours of a royal mistress, the rivalries
-of contending houses no less than reasons of State affected the
-ownership of broad domains, and the faithful recorder of the growth of
-towns that are now great hives of industry had little to enrich his
-volumes save the vicissitudes of courts and the fortunes of barons of
-high degree. But such stories are not to be looked for in the history
-of Ealing. As we have said the Lordship of Ealing has reposed from
-time immemorial, such that the memory of man runneth not to the
-contrary, in the curious terminology of the law, in the Church. When
-all around was in seething turmoil the Church changed not. But once,
-in that great upheaval we call the Reformation, were the lands of
-mother Church much affected by imperial changes. Whether the Normans,
-Plantagenets, Tudors or Stuarts ruled, the Manors of the Church were,
-in the main, secure from the hands of sacrilege. When fierce barons
-were fiercest, when intestine troubles were most rife, lands in the
-Dead Hand were, as a rule, unmolested. And it is to this continuity of
-possession, this holding by a Corporation sole that never dies, this
-sacerdotal character of its Lordship, that Ealing owes its immunity
-from those storms that have raged round other and less happy fiefs.
-And its inland position has been again a security. It has not been
-exposed, as border towns have been exposed, to the raids of restless
-tribes or hostile neighbours. It is too far removed from the mouth of
-the river to make it a place of strategic importance, and though it
-has not escaped the tramp of armed men, it has been the scene of no
-memorable siege or bloody fray.
-
-~Murder Of Edmund Ironside At Brentford.~
-
-The neighbouring town of Brentford has a less happy fate, and Ealing
-doubtless shared to some extent in the events at Brentford. In the
-year 1016, Ethelred, the King, dying, the country was torn by the
-rival claims of Edmund Ironside and Canute. London and the parts about
-it declared for Edmund, the remoter counties ranging themselves with
-the Danish King. A sharp engagement between the hostile forces gave a
-temporary victory to Edmund, and the Danes fled across the Thames,
-many of the Saxons being, in the ardour of the pursuit, drowned in the
-river near where Kew Bridge now stands. Edmund did not live to reap
-substantial advantages from this triumph, for not long afterwards he
-was assassinated at Brentford. The murderer was the son of Edric
-Strone who had allied himself with Canute. The event is narrated by
-Henry de Huntingdon: “King Edmund some days after this was killed
-treacherously at Brentford. Thus he fell while he flourished in his
-Kingdom, feared and dreaded by his enemies. In the night he went in
-some house, where the son of Edric the leader, hid in a secret cave by
-the advice of his father, stabbed the King twice in the belly, and
-taking flight, left the knife in the viscera. Then Edric came to King
-Canute and saluted him, saying, ‘Hail to thee, sole King’ and made the
-circumstances known to him. The King answered, ‘I am so much beholden
-to thee for this service, I will set thee higher than any of the
-English nobility’ Therefore he caused him to be beheaded, and his head
-to be placed on the highest tower in London.”
-
-~Battle Of Brentford.~
-
-The vicinity of Ealing appears to have known little of the horrors of
-war, from the time of Canute to that of the Civil war when, on
-November 12th, 1642, an engagement took place at Brentford between the
-Royalist and Parliament forces, which though of no great magnitude was
-the occasion of much recrimination between the King and his
-disaffected subjects, as it occurred at a time when efforts, more or
-less sincere, were being made to accommodate the differences between
-the Throne and the people. Lord Clarendon in his history thus narrates
-the battle: “So the King marched with his whole army towards
-Brentford, where were two regiments of their best foot, for so they
-were accounted, being those who had eminently behaved themselves at
-Edge-Hill, having barricaded the narrow avenues of the town, and cast
-up some little breastworks at the most convenient places. Here a
-Welsh regiment of the King’s, which had been faulty at Edge-Hill
-recovered its honour, and assaulted the works and forced the
-barricades, well defended by the enemy. Then the King’s forces entered
-the town, after a very warm service; the chief officers, and many
-soldiers of the other side being killed; and they took there about
-five hundred prisoners, eleven colours, and fifteen pieces of cannon
-and good store of ammunition. But this victory, for considering the
-place, it might well be called so, proved not at all fortunate to his
-Majesty.” An officer of the King’s says of his colonel in this battle
-(Sir Edward Tritton,) that “it was his happy honour (assisted by God
-and a new piece of cannon newly come up) to drive the Roundheads from
-their works, where it was an heart breaking object to hear and see the
-miserable deaths of many goodly men; we slew a Lieutenant Colonel,
-two Sergeant Majors, some Captains, and other officers and soldiers
-there, about thirty or forty of them, and took four hundred
-prisoners. But what was most pitiful was, to see how many poor men
-ended and lost their lives, striving to save them, for they run into
-the Thames, and about two hundred of them, as we might judge, were
-there drowned by themselves, and so were guilty of their own deaths;
-for had they stayed and yielded up themselves, the King’s mercy is so
-gracious that he had spared them all.” The first blood was shed in
-the civil war at Edgehill, on Sunday, October 23rd, 1642, so that
-when the encounter took place at Brentford the young officer whose
-letter survives him, was fresh to the gruesome attendants of war,
-and it may be presumed that if he had the good luck to see its end,
-he was less appalled by the sights he witnessed than he seems to
-have been, after what was probably his baptism of fire at Brentford.
-However, that affair, trivial as in some aspects it appears, served
-unhappily to fan the flame, and of course each side was anxious to
-throw the responsibility for the bloodshed upon the other. Each side
-was anxious to say “You began it.” The Parliamentarians, as we have
-said, were defeated at Brentford, but they made their defeat a sort
-of object lesson, as we should call it nowadays, to serve to
-stimulate their adherents throughout the Kingdom. A commission was
-appointed to enquire into the alleged barbarities of the King’s
-forces, and their report is so amusing a specimen of special pleading
-that it deserves to be reproduced. It is noteworthy also that the
-House of Commons ordered that “The Minister of Middlesex and parts
-of London, do the next fast-day read in their several parish-churches
-the account of the sufferings of the inhabitants of Old Brentford,
-on the 12th and 13th of the month by his Majesties forces; and that
-they do exhort the people to a compassionate consideration of them.”
-“Compassionate consideration” is good and we may surmise that
-“Remember Brentford” was used in those days much as the historic
-phrase “Remember Mitchels-town” was used in our own. The report was
-as follows: “A true and perfect relation of the barbarous and cruel
-passages of the King’s army at Old Brainford, near London, being
-presented to the House of Commons by a Committee of the same house,
-who was sent thither on purpose to examine the bulk of the
-particular actions of the said Army.” “The King’s army upon Saturday,
-the 12th of November instant, (after his Majesty’s assent to the
-Treaty of Accommodation,) surprised Colonel Holles, his regiment, at
-Old Brainford, and after they had possessed themselves of the town,
-they plundered it without any respect of persons, except the home of
-one Brent, a Church papist (whose wife was a known popish accusant,
-and he suspected to give intelligence, to the King’s Army.) First
-they drank and wasted the beer and wines at the several inns, and
-other places in the towns, and such beer and wine as they could not
-drink, they let it down out in some cellars as deep as the middle.
-They also took from the inhabitants their money, linen, woollen,
-bedding, wearing apparel, horses, cows, wine, hens, &c., and all
-manner of victuals; also pewter, brass, iron pots, and kettles, and
-all manner of grocery, chandlery and apothecary ware, nay, such was
-their barbarous carriage, that many of the feather beds which they
-could not bear away they did cut the tales of them in pieces, and
-scattered the feathers about in the fields and streets; they did also
-cut the cords of the beds, and broke down the bedsteads; they did
-cut to pieces and burn the poor fishermens’ boats and nets by which
-they got their living, having pillaged them besides of all they ever
-had; they did cast beef into the dirt, which they carried not away
-with them; they littered their horses with wheat-sheaves; they
-spoiled nurseries of fruit trees of good value, and near upon three
-bushels of apples from one man they took away, spoiled and trampled
-to dirt with their horses’ feet, besides fifteen pair of sheets, his
-bedding, &c. They also took candles to the value of twenty pounds
-and upwards from one man, and burnt them all night through the army,
-and such as they carried not away, either they broke in pieces, or
-threw into the fire, or trod in the mire. Had they rested with
-robbing of the richer sort it had been some degree of mercy, but they
-left not unplundered the blind beggar at Old Brainford, taking from
-him and his wife their wearing apparel, linen, woollen and bedding;
-and the like they did to the poor almswomen in the Spittle there,
-and cook from them their wheel or rocks by which they got something
-towards a livelihood; and when they had thus plundered and taken away
-all the goods, except here and there a bed, they defaced some houses
-and set one of them on fire on purpose, as is conceived, to fire the
-town, which was afterwards quenched by an inhabitant. Had their
-wicked carriages here ended in the loss of the inhabitants’ goods
-without hazard of their persons, they had undergone it with more
-patience, but such was their inhuman behaviour, that they did set
-drawn swords and pistols cocked to men’s and women’s breasts,
-threatening them with death if they brought not out all their money,
-and threatening others to cut off their noses and pull out their
-eyes, calling them Parliament dogs, round-headed rogues, beating
-and wounding some of them, (one of them being a lame cripple,)
-taking of the inhabitants prisoners, and putting irons upon them,
-others they tied with ropes, and stripped some to their shirts, and
-as one of them who was led next day in irons towards Oatlands,
-stopped to take a little water in his hat to drink, they beat him
-and bruised him for offering to do it. Their hearts were so scared
-they would not extend compassion to the aged and greyheaded; for
-they took one grave old gentleman, above four score years of age,
-and put him with other of the inhabitants of the town, into the
-pound, where they were divers hours, and afterwards were removed
-into a slaughter-house, where they lay all night, it being a most
-nasty and noisome place; and the old gentleman being bound hand and
-foot together all night. They also plundered an ancient gentlewoman
-of about three score and ten years of age, whose age and weakness
-would not permit her to go to Church for these seven years last past,
-they took from her all her bedding, linen, pewter, &c., and even her
-mantle from her back, leaving her in a poor and miserable condition.
-Their plundering was so universal, that even divers of the richer as
-well as the mean sort were, and to this day are, inforced to live on
-the charity of the Earl of Essex and his soldiers, the Cavaliers
-leaving scarce a piece of bread or meat in all the town. It would
-pierce a heart of flint to see the tears dropping from the old men’s
-eyes, in expressing their sad condition; and a great addition to
-these cruelties was the barbarous, merciless, and unheard of usage
-of the Parliament soldiers by the Cavaliers; for they did put them
-into a pound and there tied and pinioned them together, where they
-so stood for many hours, some of them stripped to their shirts,
-others to their breeches, most without stockings or shoes, and
-in that condition removed to the slaughter-house, where they lay
-all night, and next day were dragged away over Houndslow Heath
-towards Oatlands, divers of them bare foot and bare leg over fur and
-thistles till their feet and legs did bleed, and were sorely galled.
-But these may be accounted acts of grace and favor in comparison to
-what they did to others of them; for when divers of Master Holles,
-his soldiers, fled into the Thames for safeguard of their lives, they
-shot at them as they were swimming, and divers of them were drowned.”
-
-“They took, after the fight ended, five of the Earl of Essex his
-soldiers, and tied by the hands with ropes, inforced them into the
-river Thames, who standing in the water to their necks, casting their
-eyes on their enemies in hopes of mercy; but, such was the merciless
-condition of their adversaries, that a trooper ran in the water after
-them, and forced them to fall into the depth of the water, crying to
-them in a jeering manner, swim for your lives, when it was past all
-possibility to escape. Here had their barbarous carriage begun and
-ended in the heat of blood and revenge, had a little qualified their
-offence; but so full of inhumanity was their hearts, even before the
-fight at Old Brainford, with Colonel Holles, his regiment, that they
-placed ten of the Earl of Essex his soldiers, whom they had formerly
-taken prisoners at Kingston, pinioned in the front of their men to be
-as a breastwork to receive the bullets that came from Colonel Holles,
-his regiment, that the Cavaliers might escape them; but such was the
-providence of God, that not one of them was hurt, though shot in the
-clothes in many places, and one of the ten escaped, who was formerly a
-sergeant to a company in Colonel Essex, his regiment, and in the
-presence of divers witnesses averred the truth of this particular. And
-now since it appears by the prodigious acts of rapine, devastation,
-and tyranny, that these men delight in cruelty, and fight against
-their own associates, and spoil those that favour their own cause with
-those that oppose it, what remains but that they be taken not for such
-as endeavour the defence of the King, but the ruin of the Kingdom, and
-not as enemies of some kind of men, but as the common enemies of
-mankind; and, therefore, mankind should join together against them, as
-it was said of Ishmael, ‘His hand shall be against every man, and
-every man’s hand against him.’”
-
-To this precious and characteristic document which was ordered by
-Parliament to be published, the King’s advisers thought it necessary
-to reply at length, and to that reply Parliament replied, and so for a
-time rebutter and surrebutter were shuttlecocked between the parties
-in a dispute which must end in the awful issue of civil war.
-
-Patrick Ruthen, Earl of Forth, in Scotland, was, for his services in
-this action, created by Charles I, Earl of Brentford, a title which
-became extinct with him in 1651. In 1689 the title was revived by King
-William, who gave it to Duke Schomberg; Schomberg’s son, who died in
-1719, was the last Earl of Brentford.
-
-We have mentioned two events so far removed in time as the reigns of
-Edmund and Charles I, and they are the only ones in which Ealing and
-its vicinity seem to have been perturbed by armed forces, but it
-should be added that when England was threatened with invasion by
-Napoleon in 1797, the inhabitants of Ealing and Brentford formed a
-volunteer corps of some two hundred strong, and at the close of the
-war its colours were, happily unstained, deposited in the Parish
-Church at Ealing.
-
-~The Brentford Martyrs.~
-
-But this locality is associated in history not only with war’s alarms,
-but with religious and political divisions. From Falkener’s History of
-Brentford, we learn that “Not long after the death of seven godly
-martyrs that suffered in Smithfield were six other faithful witnesses
-of the Lord’s true Testament, martyred at Brainford, the 14th day of
-July, 1558, which said six were of that Company, that were apprehended
-in a close, hard by Islington, and sent to prison. Whose names
-hereafter follow: Robert Miles, Stephen Cotton, Robert Dynes, Stephen
-Wright, John Slade, William Pikes. The six forenamed martyrs (gentle
-reader) had their articles ministered to them by Thomas Darbyshire,
-Bonner’s Chancellor, at sundry times, when though they were severally
-examined, yet had they all one manner of articles ministered unto
-them, and they had made answer unto the same, in the end the
-Chancellor commanded them to appear before him again, the 11th day of
-July, after in the said place at St. Paul’s. When they came he
-required of them, whether they would turn their opinions to the mother
-holy church, and, if not that, then whether there were any excuse to
-the contrary, but that he might proceed with the sentence of
-excommunication. Whereunto they all answered that they would not go
-from the truth, nor retreat from the same while they lived. Then he
-charged them to appear before him again the next day to hear the
-definitive sentence read against them, according to the ecclesiastical
-law then in force. At which time he, sitting in judgment, talking with
-these godly and virtuous men, at last came unto the same place Sir
-Edward Hastings, and Sir Thomas Cornwall, Knights, two of Queen Mary’s
-officers of her house, and being there they sat down over against the
-Chancellor, in whose presence the said Chancellor condemned these good
-poor lambs, and delivered them over to the secular power, who received
-and carried them to prison immediately, and there kept them in safety
-to the day of their death. In the meantime, the naughty Chancellor
-slept not, I warrant you, but that day in which they were condemned,
-he made certificate into the Lord Chancellor’s offices, from whence
-the next day after was sent a writ to burn them at Brentford
-aforesaid, which accordingly was accomplished in the same place, the
-said 12th day of July. Whereunto they being brought, made their
-laudable prayers unto the Lord Jesus, undressed themselves, went
-joyfully to the stake, whereunto they were bound, and the fire flaming
-about them, they yielded their souls, bodies, and lives, into the
-hands of the omnipotent Lord, for whose cause they did suffer, to
-whose protection I recommend thee, gentle reader. Amen.” Why the
-martyrdom was at Brentford does not appear, though presumably it owes
-that unhappy distinction to its status as County town of Middlesex,
-and there it was that in former days the poll was taken for the
-election of Knight’s of the shire.
-
-~Wilkes At Brentford.~
-
-Readers of Constitutional history are familiar with the struggle
-between the House of Commons and the people for the freedom of
-election, contests identified curiously enough in the last century
-with the names of Wilkes and in this of Mr. Charles Bradlaugh. In the
-early part of the century Brentford was the scene of much rioting and
-disorder and even bloodshed, and the route from Charing Cross to
-Brentford was often lined with eager partisans cheering or hooting the
-freeholders as they made their way to record their votes for or
-against the man whom the irony of fate had made the champion of the
-national liberties.
-
-~The Plague.~
-
-But if Ealing has seen but little of the horrors of war it has groaned
-under a visitation more terrible still, the hideous hand of the Plague
-of 1665 and 1666. It is said to have been brought to the neighbourhood
-by two soldiers who were quartered at the Half-way House at Old
-Brentford, and the Parish Register bears sad testimony to its ravages.
-It raged for more than twelve months, and claimed for its own more
-than two hundred and fifty victims.
-
-
- June 24. --A souldier dyed at the Half-way House at Old Brentford,
- at
- Don’s.
- July 1. --A souldier that dyed at James Garraway’s.
- July 10. --John White and a son of Richard were buried of the
- plague,
- from Don’s.
- July 12. --Richard Don the master of the house.
- July 13. --Two children of Richard Don, a maid, and a maid of James
- Garraway’s,
- all buried in one grave, in Old Brentford field, of the
- plague.
- ,, 22. --Sarah, a child of James Garraway’s, died of the plague.
-
- ,, 26. --One that dyed in the Burrow at Old Brentford of the
- plague.
- ,, One that wrought at Robert Monday’s of the plague.
-
- ,, The wife of Joseph Grant of the plague.
- ,, 31. --A child of Ben Watts of the plague.
- Aug. 23. --Annie, wife of Robert Rendell, of the plague.
- ,, 24. --A girl buried of the plague, from Walter’s House in the
- town.
- ,, 26. --Three children from Brentford of the plague.
- ,, 27. --Two from Mr. Walter’s house.
- ,, 28. --Robert Randall.
- ,, Francis Potter.
- ,, 29. --A child named John Mason.
- ,, Goodman Carter’s wife.
- Nov. 10. --Robert Cromwell’s maid.
- ,, Barbarietta, the daughter of John Welbro’ Gent.
-
-
-In the months of November and December the plague increased in
-violence, and as many as seven died in one day. Most of the dead were
-interred in holes dug in the fields to the south of the village, which
-to this day are called “Dead Men’s Graves.”
-
-Ealing is rich in noble buildings dedicated to the service of God. The
-parish church, St. Mary’s, stands on the site of a former structure,
-which was built in 1729, under Act of Parliament and by the Authority
-of a “brief,” replacing the original church that had begun to sink.
-The present edifice is of brick, and consists of a nave and chancel,
-organ chamber, ambulatories and a square tower, designed after the
-Romanesque style, a corruption of the Doric and Ionic. It is basilican
-in its internal and external appearance, and a baptisty stands in lieu
-of the southern transept. The monuments from the walls of the former
-structure are mostly collected in recesses at the west end. The Church
-is subject to the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London, in whom is the
-advowson. Robert De Balmers, Bishop of London, we learn from Falkner,
-gave the tithes of Ealing, in the reign of Henry I, to augment the
-salary of an officer in the Church of St. Paul’s, called the Master of
-the Schools. But on the office of Mastership of the Schools merging in
-that of Chancellor, it is probable that the tithes of Ealing reverted
-to the Bishop of London, for in 1308 the Church of Ealing was
-appropriated by Bishop Baldeck to the Chancellor, subject to the
-payment of £10 per annum to the Vicar of Ealing, and to the reading of
-lectures in divinity, either in his own person, or by a sufficient
-deputy, on penalty of forfeiting the whole profits of the rectory, a
-third of which in that case was allotted to a lecturer, a third to the
-repairs of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and a third for the maintenance of
-the Church. In the taxation of 1327, the Church of Ealing was rated at
-25 marks. In the reign of Edward VI the vicarage was valued at £13 6s.
-8d. The present value of the living, according to the Clergy List is
-£800.
-
-Ealing has numbered among its vicars many divines who have been
-celebrated for their learning, their piety, and their zeal, and it is
-the merest justice to say that in the attributes that adorned his
-predecessors, in lofty and stately eloquence, in moving pathos, in
-chastened declamation, and in all the graces of cultured speech
-glowing in poetic imagery, Dr. Oliver, the present incumbent, has
-amply sustained the traditions of his benefice. The following is the
-list of the Vicars of Ealing:--
-
-
- Roger de Thorlaston.
- 1372, April 8. Robert de Haytfield. Resigned.
- 1386, Nov. 12. William Semley. Ob.
- 1386, Feb. 11. John Dames. Ob.
- 1390, Oct. 25. David Bagator. Resig.
- 1398, Dec. 7. Nic. Bowne. ,,
- 1399, Oct. 18. Will. Wright. ,,
- 1400, Sep. 15. John Duffield. ,,
- 1407, Dec. 21. Baldwin Bagatour.
- 1437, Aug. 2. John Mallony. ,,
- 1443, July 18. Joh. Smith. ,,
- Ric. Burton.
- 1451, Nov. 26. Thos. Curteys, LL.B.
- 1478, May 28. Will. Tournour, A.M. Ob.
- 1503, Sep. 15. Thos. Everard. ,,
- 1513, Dec. 9. Sim. King. Resig.
- 1537, Jan. 19. Will. Havard. Ob.
- 1566, Feb. I. Oliver Stoning, S.T.B. ,,
- 1571, Nov. 26. Thos. Rycroft. ,,
- 1582, April 7. Thos. Knight, A.M. ,,
- 1591, Nov. 26. Ric. Smart. Resig.
- 1602, October. Joh. Bromfield, A.M. Ob.
- 1610, Jan. 29. Edwd. Abbot, A.M. ,,
- 1615, Jan, 19. Rec. Tavernor, A.M. Resig.
- 1638, Oct. 13. Rob. Cooper, LL.B. Ob.
-
-
-Cooper’s lines did not lie in pleasant places. He was ejected by the
-Puritans, and from this circumstance no less than from his position,
-we may be sure he had not disguised his Royalist sympathies. It is not
-known how the erstwhile vicar of Ealing spent his interregnum, whether
-he had means apart from his calling, or lived on the goodwill of
-friends, or flitted about as so many of the deprived clergy did from
-the house of one cavalier to another’s, or followed the fallen
-fortunes of the young king _de jure_ at the foreign courts that gave a
-grudged shelter to the royal exile. During the period of his
-suspension, marriages assumed the character of a civil contract, and
-the Registrar acted much as a Registrar acts in our days in civil
-marriages. Here is a copy of an entry of the publication of intent to
-marry, 1653. “A publication of an intent of marriage betweene John
-Holliday, the sonne of Jo. Holliday, waterman, and Sarah Walker,
-spinster, and daughter of Richard Walker, of Old Brentford, mealman,
-was published in Yling church three several days, viz., November 6,
-13, &c., 1653. By me Joseph Walker Register.”
-
-During Cooper’s deprivation the pulpit of the Church was occupied by
-Daniel Carwarthen, and by Thomas Gilbert, the latter of whom was in
-possession at the Restoration. Just as Cooper had clung to Church and
-King, so did Gilbert refuse to recognize the new or restored polity.
-So Gilbert was removed from the Church, and as it happened that
-Gilbert was the first recusant, he desired to have it recorded on his
-tomb that he was the proto-martyr to the cause of non-conformity.
-Robert Cooper was reinstated in his old benefice, but died within a
-few months thereafter.
-
-1660, January 4. William Beveridge, A.M. of St. John’s College. An
-excellent and a most learned divine. In his twentieth year he wrote a
-treatise on the Hebrew, Chaldee, Syriac, Arabic, and Samarian tongues.
-He resigned the Vicarage of Ealing for the rectory of St. Peter’s,
-Cornhill. In 1681 he was made Archdeacon of Colchester with a stall as
-Prebend in St. Paul’s. In 1691 he declined the see of Bath and Wells
-from conscientious motives, but subsequently became Bishop of St.
-Asaph. He died in 1708 and was buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral.
-
-
-
- 1673, April 29. Seth Lamb, A.M. Resig.
- 1702, Jan. 26. William Hall, A.M. Ob.
- 1719, Feb. 9. Thomas Mangey, LL.D. prom.
-
-The author of many theological works that attained considerable
-repute. Dr. Mangey was chaplain to Dr. Robinson, Bishop of London, and
-prebendary of the Cathedral of Durham. He married the daughter of
-Archbishop Sharp.
-
-
- William Hall Resig.
- 1754, Sep. 29. John Botham, M.A. Resig.
- 1773, Dec. 10. Chas. Sturges, M.A. Ob.
-
-
-The Rev. C. Sturges was Vicar of Ealing during the time Mrs. Trimmer
-was resident in the Parish and in her Memoirs he is described as in
-every part of his duty indefatigable, admonishing, persuading in
-season and out of season, exhorting his flock to walk in the path of
-duty, or to return to it if they had unhappily strayed. The sick were
-visited, the ignorant instructed, the distressed relieved, and all
-watched over with a regard almost paternal. It was in the time of Mr.
-Sturges that Sunday Schools were introduced into Ealing. The credit of
-establishing Sunday Schools is generally attributed to Robert Raikes
-who advocated them in the Gloucester Journal of which he was
-proprietor and Editor. The idea was communicated to Mr. Raikes by the
-Rev. Mr. Stock, curate of St. John’s, Gloucester. Mr. Stock secured
-the co-operation of Mr. Raikes and though the Schools inaugurated by
-the coadjutors were not in fact the first Schools which might properly
-be termed Sunday Schools, there is no doubt that to the publicity and
-prominence given to the subject by Raikes, we are indebted for the
-general and rapid adoption of the institution throughout the land, and
-Mr. Sturges welcomed and encourage the first Sunday Schools opened in
-Ealing.
-
-
- 1797, Sep. 21. Colston Carr, LL.B. Resig.
- 1822, June 1. Herbert Oakeley. ,,
- 1834, Mar. 19. John Smith, B.D.
- Edwd. Wm. Relton, M.A.
- W. E. Oliver, LL.D. Floreat.
-
-
-Within the Church are many monuments and mural inscriptions, but not
-all of them are of so general interest as to call for record here.
-There are however exceptions. On the east end of the north aisle is
-placed an ancient plate to the memory of Richard Amondesham, merchant
-of the staple of Calais, with brass figures in the dresses of the
-fifteenth century. There is an oval tablet to the memory of some
-members of the family of John Oldmixon, a party writer in the days of
-Pope and Addison, and who secured the questionable honour of a niche
-in the Dunciad. A black marble table with gilt letters contains some
-particulars of the family of Sir Frederick Morton Eden, Bart; a
-pyramid with arms recalls the memory of Joseph Gulston, of Ealing
-Grove, five times M.P. for Poole, and one of the South Sea Directors,
-who died in 1766. A monument of white marble is sacred to the names of
-John Loving, of Little Ealing, one of the Tellers of the Exchequer in
-the reign of King Charles the Second, King James the Second, and King
-William the third. Other monuments there are to Major-General Sir
-James Lomond, C.B. and to Sir Frederick Wettherall, G.C.H., and a
-noble piece of ornamental statuary bears an eloquent inscription to
-the virtues of Dame Jane Rawlinson, who died in 1713, leaving £500 for
-teaching twenty poor girls of the parish of Ealing. A slab on the
-floor informs us that Elizabeth wife of John Maynard, Sergeant at Law,
-was buried here ye 4th day of January, 1664. Sir John Maynard’s
-remains are in the Churchyard. He died at Gunnersbury not long after
-the Restoration. His name will ever be associated with the prosecution
-of Strafford and Laud and other State Trials of the period. It is said
-that when he paid his duties at the Court of William of Orange, the
-King observed on his great age and asked if he had not survived all
-the lawyers of his youth? “Yes, sir; and if your highness had not come
-over here, I should have survived even the law itself,” was the
-diplomatic and perhaps the true reply. A character of very different
-type found, in the Churchyard of Ealing, rest. His vault bears the
-epitaph, “John Horne Tooke, late of Wimbledon, author of the
-Diversions of Purley, was born June, 1736, and died March 18th, 1812,
-contented and grateful.” Happy the demagogue and agitator who can
-close his life with such a message to posterity! John Horne Tooke, was
-born at Westminister, the son of John Horne, a poulterer, the surname
-Tooke being assumed in regard for a friend, William Tooke, on whose
-behalf he had resisted an inclosure bill for lands in Purley, near
-Goistone, in Surrey. Tooke was educated at Westminster and Eton
-Schools, and St. John’s College, Cambridge. He entered the Church in
-compliance with the wishes of his father, but against his own. That
-the duties of his sacred office were irksome and uncongenial he has
-left on record in a letter, in execrable taste, to his friend Wilkes.
-It was largely owing to the exertions of Tooke that Wilkes was elected
-for Middlesex in 1768, and he was closely allied with that agitator in
-the foundation of the society for supporting the Bill of Rights, and
-in the contests in which that politician engaged with Parliament.
-Tooke obtained his degree of M.A. though not without opposition, many
-members of the University resisting the conferment, Dr. Paley among
-others, and in his political strife Tooke drew upon him the bitter
-invective of Junius. On the breaking out of the American War of
-Independence, Tooke sympathized with the revolted colonists, and
-assualted the ministry so unguardedly that he was tried for libel,
-fined and imprisoned. On his release he sought to be called to the
-bar, but the Benchers rejected him as a clergyman. He unsuccessfully
-contested Westminster on more than one occasion, but in 1801 he was
-returned by Lord Camelford for the rotten borough of Old Sarum, an
-anomalous position for an advanced reformer. Tooke was the last
-clergyman to sit in the Commons, an act being passed in 1802 to
-disqualify clergymen in holy orders. Tooke’s chief claim to fame rests
-however on his “Diversions of Purley,” a sort of Grammatical and
-Philological Treatise couched in Dialogue. Tooke’s was a troubled
-life. What was the secret of the epitaph?
-
-There are many charities, more noble monuments of the dead then ought
-ever graved by the sculptor’s art. The chief of these are John
-Bowman’s Charity (1612) for such goodly and charitable uses as the
-officers thereof for the time being shall deem meet and convenient;
-Richard and Mary Need’s, a Brentford Charity; Richard Taylor’s and
-Lady Capell’s Bequest, by which one-twelfth part of the income of an
-estate in Kent, called Perry-court Farm was given in 1721 by the will
-of the Rt. Hon. Dorothy Dowager Lady Capell, for the support of the
-Charity School of Ealing, and Dame Jane Rawlinson’s Bequest, by her
-will of October 7th, 1712, which has been already mentioned.
-Particulars of these and many others may be found in Falkner’s History
-of Ealing.
-
-Fifty years ago there was but one Church in Ealing, there are now
-eight, besides Chapels; _Christ Church_ which was built in 1852 at a
-cost of £10,000. It is in the Geometrical Decorated style, was
-designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is of singular grace and beauty.
-_St. John’s Church_ in Ealing Dean was built in 1876 of brick, with
-stone and terra cotta facings in the Early English style of
-architecture. _St. Stephen’s Church_, near Castle Hill, erected in
-1875 is of Gothic Style. There are also the Churches of _St.
-Matthew’s_ in the North Common Road, _St. Peter’s_ in the Mount Park
-Road, _St. James’s_ in the Alexandria Road, Ealing Dean, and
-_St. Saviour’s_ in Grove Place. There are moreover Presbyterian,
-Congregational, Baptist and Primitive Methodist Chapels.
-
-~Mansions.~
-
-As might be expected, Ealing and its vicinity abound in noble
-mansions, large and stately dwellings, standing in rich and ornate
-grounds, surrounded by lofty walks, and sheltered by noble trees. Here
-for generations the great and noble have sought repose from the
-distractions of society, the studious have found quiet and serenity,
-the statesman calm, the gallant soldier peace, the merchant prince
-contentment, and all a sweet and healthful retirement. On Castlebar
-Hill stood formerly Castle-hill Lodge, which up to the year 1812 was
-the seat of the Duke of Kent, and at one time the residence of Mrs.
-Fizherbert. The Duke of Kent married in 1818 a princess of the House
-of Coburg, and our gracious Queen Victoria was issue of this alliance.
-At the eastern extremity of Ealing is Fordhook, where Fielding dwelt
-until he left England for Lisbon in the last desperate search for
-health. It was at Fordhook that “Tom Jones” and “Amelia” were written.
-His Journal under date Wednesday, June 16th, 1754, contains the
-following touching passage. “On this day, the most melancholy sun I
-ever beheld arose, and found me awake at my house at Fordhook. By the
-light of the sun I was, in my own opinion, last to behold, and take
-leave of some of those creatures on whom I doated with a mother-like
-fondness, guided by nature and passion, and uncured and unhardened by
-all the doctrine of that philosophical school, where I had learned to
-bear pains and despise death. In this situation, as I could not
-conquer nature, I submitted entirely to her, and she made as great a
-fool of me as she had ever done of any woman whatsoever; under
-pretence of giving me leave to enjoy, she drew me on to suffer the
-company of my little ones during eight hours; and I doubt not, whether
-in that time I did not undergo more than in all my distemper. At
-twelve o’clock precisely my coach was at the door, which was no sooner
-told me than I kissed my children round, and went into it with some
-little resolution. My wife, who behaved more like a heroine and a
-philosopher, though at the same time the tenderest mother in the
-world, and my eldest daughter followed me; some friends went with us,
-and others here took their leave; and I heard my behaviour applauded
-with many murmurs and praises, to which I knew I had no title; as all
-other such philosophers may, if they have any modesty, confess in the
-like occasion.” Fielding died at Lisbon in the following October.
-Fordhook was subsequently occupied by Lady Byron, the poet’s hapless
-wife, and here, in 1853, their daughter “Ada, sole daughter of my
-house and heart,” was married in the drawing room by special license
-to the Earl of Lovelace.
-
-But novelists as great if not greater than Fielding have sojourned in
-Ealing. Thackeray was at school here, of which more anon. Dickens used
-often to ride over to visit his sister, Mrs. Hogarth, at Ealing Dean.
-Dibdin wrote many of his best songs at his house in Hanger Lane; and
-Edward Bulwer Lytton was at school in a house that stood in what was
-then called Love Lane. The school was kept by Mr. Wallington, and a
-correspondent of Lytton’s biographer furnishes us with an interesting
-sketch of school and pedagogue.
-
-“We drew up in front of a massive old-fashioned arched door in a high
-brick wall, above which nothing but the chimneys and projecting gables
-of the attic windows of Mr. Wallington’s house were visible. It was a
-large, ancient, time-worn edifice, in which the lord of the manor or
-other great man of the parish, might be supposed to have lived in the
-time of William and Mary or Queen Anne, but it had been disfigured by
-a mean-looking brick building tacked to its northern side, possibly by
-its present proprietor.”
-
-“I was not long in discovering that Mr. Wallington was not the scholar
-I had hoped to find him. Not only had he no objection to our preparing
-our lesson by the help of English translations, but at lessons he used
-a like ‘crib’ and, even with its assistance, failed as often as not,
-to explain the grammatical structure, or throw light upon the meaning
-of some passage in Sophodes or Thucydides, which had baffled Gore, by
-far the most advanced student of our lot. Nevertheless, by being
-always at his post, in cheerful readiness to take his share in our
-tasks, he kept us up so well to our work that there was no falling off
-in our previously acquired knowledge of Latin and Greek.”
-
-“In Mr. Wallington, we had always before us the example of one who in
-principles, as well as manners, was a gentleman in the best sense of
-the word; courteous in bearing, pleasant in speech, with patience,
-fine temper, and a tender regard for the feelings of others.”
-
-“Mr. Wallington rode ‘Bonnie Bess,’ formerly a favourite hackney of
-George III, for whose service she had been specially trained, and, in
-order to protect him against sudden assaults, had been taught to rear
-and trample down anyone who put out a hand to seize her bridle
-whenever she had a rider on her back. The story ran that Queen
-Charlotte, a lady of frugal mind, had sold her husband’s stud as soon
-as his malady had reached the stage that there was no hope that he
-would ever mount his horse again.”
-
-It was at Ealing too, during his schooldays that the illustrious
-novelist tasted the bitter sweets of a first love, and his own pen has
-told the story.
-
-“The country around where my good preceptor resided was rural enough
-for a place so near the metropolis. A walk of somewhat less than a
-mile, through lanes that were themselves retired and lonely, led to
-green sequestered meadows, through which the humble Brent crept along
-its snake-like way. O God! how palpably, even in hours the least
-friendly to remembrance, there rises before my eyes, when I close
-them, that singular dwarfed tree which overshadowed the little stream,
-throwing its boughs half way to the opposite margin! I wonder if it
-still survives. I dare not revisit that spot. And there we were wont
-to meet (poor children that we were!) thinking not of the world we had
-scarce entered, dreaming not of fate and chance, reasoning not on what
-was to come, full only of our first born, our ineffable love. Along
-the quiet road between Ealing and Castlebar, the lodge gates stood
-(perhaps they are still standing,) which led to the grounds of a villa
-once occupied by the Duke of Kent. To the right of those gates, as you
-approached them from the common, was a path. Through two or three
-fields, as undisturbed and lonely as if they lay in the heart of some
-solitary land far from any human neighbourhood, this path conducted to
-the banks of the little rivulet, overshadowed here and there by
-blosoming shrubs and crooked pollards of fantastic shape. Along that
-path once sped the happiest steps that ever bore a boy’s heart to the
-object of its first innocent worship.”
-
-Lord Lytton does not disclose the name of his youthful and unhappy
-love. He was then 17 and she was, he informs us, one or two years
-older then he. This seems to be of course. Let the male reader ransack
-his own experience and it is odds there looms before his mental vision
-some angel of twenty whom he assured he should be sixteen in a few
-months, and that he felt old for his age. Lord Lytton had soon to part
-from the nymph, who, his Life by his son asserts, was forced into an
-early and uncongenial marriage. For three years, in obedience to duty,
-she strove to smother the love which consumed her; and when she sunk
-under the conflict, and death was about to release her from the
-obligations of marriage and life itself, she wrote a letter to her
-youthful adorer and with her dying hand informed him of the suffering
-which she had passed, and of her unconquerable devotion to him, and
-intimated a wish that he should visit her grave. It is she whom he
-apostrophizes in one of his earliest essays: “My lost, my buried, my
-unforgotten! you, whom I knew in the first fresh years of life, you,
-who were snatched from me before one leaf of the Summer of Youth and
-of love was withered; you over whose grave, yet a boy, I wept away
-half the softness of my soul, now that I know the eternal workings of
-the world, and the destiny of all human ties, I rejoice that you are
-no more! that custom never dulled the music of your voice, the pathos
-and the magic of your sweet eyes, that the halo of a dream was round
-you to the last! had you survived till now, we should have survived,
-not our love indeed, but all that renders love most divine,” and so
-the noble writer goes on in an ecstatic passage which means, if it has
-any meaning at all, that he was glad the lady died, because if she had
-lived they would have tired of each other.
-
-On rising ground on the outskirts of Ealing where it borders on
-Turnham Green, stands the historic mansion of Gunnersbury, now owned
-by Baron Rothschild. The present mansion replaces an earlier edifice,
-which was pulled down at the end of the last century. The Gunnersbury
-of that date vied with Holland House and Strawberry Hill. At one time
-the old building was the abode of Sergeant Maynard who died there in
-1690. There for many years dwelt his widow, his third wife, who
-ultimately married the Earl of Suffolk. On her death in 1721
-Gunnersbury was acquired by Lord Hobart and later by the Princess
-Amelia, daughter of George II, and aunt of George III, who formed a
-Salon there. The princess had a considerable taste and talent for
-political intrigue, and her parties were resorted to by all that
-sought favor at Court. In 1761 we find in a letter of Sir Horace
-Walpole, “I was sent for again to dine at Gunnersbury on Friday, and
-was forced to send to town for a dress coat and a sword. There were
-the Prince of Wales, the Prince of Mecklenburgh, the Duke of Portland,
-Lord Clanbrassil, Lord and Lady Clermont, Lord and Lady Southampton,
-Lord Pelham and Mrs. Howe. The Prince of Mecklenburgh was back to
-Windsor after coffee, and the Prince and Lord and Lady Clermont to
-town after tea, to hear some new French plays at Lady William
-Gordon’s. The Princess, Lady Barrymore, and the rest of us played
-three games at commerce till ten. I am afraid that I was tired, and
-gaped. While we were at the Dairy, the Princess insisted on my making
-some verses on Gunnersbury, I pleaded superannuation, but she would
-not excuse me.” The mansion, the present seat of Baron Rothschild, is
-surrounded by grounds of considerable extent and laid out with much
-care and taste. The house contains many noticeable statues, and
-several striking pictures, one of which limns a historic scene, the
-introduction of the late Baron Lionel Rothschild into the House of
-Commons in 1858 after the removal of the Disabilities of the Jews. The
-baron’s sponsors were Lord John Russel and Bernal Osborne, of witty
-memory, and on the front benches on either side are to be seen the
-well-known faces of Lord Palmerstone, Mr. Disraeli, Mr. Gladstone,
-Cornewall Lewis, and the late Lord Derby.
-
-Gunnersbury House, says Mr. Falkner, is a handsome specimen of the
-Tuscan order. The South front is 126 feet long, and consists of a
-centre and wings; the former is three stories high, and the latter two
-stories. The north front is of the same dimensions, but of more simple
-construction; it is ornamented with a grand portico with four columns
-of the Tuscan order; the whole front consisting of three stories. The
-east end is 60 feet wide, and is divided into two large and splendid
-bow windows, and is used as a conservatory. The terrace in front of
-the house is bordered by a dwarf wall and stone coping, and ornamented
-with vases. At the east end of this terrace is an alcove, in which is
-placed a statue of Apollo. The west end is bounded by an architectural
-archway, leading to the gardens. On the west is a handsome temple of
-the Tuscan order, supported by two pilasters and two columns. On the
-tympanum of the pediment is a shield with foliage. The interior is
-chastely arranged, and beautifully furnished with Chinese vases,
-antique chairs, &c., and the walls are ornamented with bas reliefs,
-representing the most striking scenes taken from the history of
-Greece. From the south front of this temple is obtained an extensive
-view of the surrounding country including Kew Gardens, and the Surrey
-Hills in the distance. This spot is the most elevated part of the
-grounds, as well as the most beautiful, and is further ornamented with
-a circular piece of water, consisting of about two acres. This part of
-the garden shows evident marks of the hand of Kent, who was employed
-by Mr. Turner for the purpose of embellishing the grounds and
-improving the landscape. A row of cedar trees here raise their
-majestic heads, and are greatly admired. The Italian garden at the
-back of the Temple is embellished with eight figures on sand-stone of
-Burns’s “Jolly Beggars,” admirably executed by Thoms.
-
-On the edge of Ealing Common stands The Grove, which, in the later
-part of the seventeenth century, was occupied by Sir William Trumbull,
-the friend of Pope, and Secretary of State to William III. Pope wrote
-his epitaph:
-
-
- A pleasing form, a firm, yet cautious mind;
- Sincere, though prudent; constant, yet resign’d,
- Honour unchang’d, a principle profest,
- Fix’d to one side, but mod’rate to the rest,
- An honest courtier, yet a patriot too;
- Just to his prince, and to his country true;
- Fill’d with the sense of age, the fire of youth,
- A scorn of wrangling, yet a zeal for truth.
- A gen’rous faith, from superstition free,
- A love to peace, and hate of tyranny;
- Such this man was, who now, from earth remov’d,
- At length enjoys the liberty he lov’d.
-
-
-Elm Grove passed successively into the hands of Dr. Hedges, secretary
-to Queen Anne, and Dr. Egerton, Bishop of Durham, and Lord Kinnair
-from the heirs of which nobleman it was purchased by the Rt. Hon.
-Spencer Percival, Chancellor of the Exchequer, who was shot on May
-11th, 1812, as he was entering the lobby of the House of Commons, by
-one Bellingham, whose mind had been unhinged by commercial
-misfortunes, and who in some way connected the Chancellor with his
-adversities. Bellingham was hanged at Newgate. Elm Grove became
-subsequently an Asylum for the officers of the East Indian Company,
-and was purchased by Baron Rothschild, and is now dismantled.
-
-The crime and execution of Bellingham recall another event connected
-with Ealing the story of which is infinitely sad. It is a story of
-great talents prostituted to base uses, with dismal tragedy in their
-train. In the year 1766 the Manor House, subsequently called
-Goodenough House, was occupied by Dr. Dodd as a boarding School for
-young gentlemen, and in February of that year, he was there arrested
-and conveyed to Newgate on a charge of forging the name of Lord
-Chesterfield to a receipt for money and a bond. The prisoner
-acknowledged his guilt and alleged the stress of poverty. The jury
-returned a verdict of guilty, but drew up a recommendation to His
-Majesty for mercy. The sheriff of London, attended by the City
-Remembrancer, presented a memorial from the city to the King,
-entreating mercy; another was sent to the Queen from the Magdalen
-Hospital, in whose institution Dr. Dodd had borne an active part. Lord
-Percy handed in one signed by twenty thousand inhabitants of
-Westminster, and the wife of the unhappy man with whom he had lived in
-the most perfect conjugal felicity, presented a petition for the Royal
-clemency to the Queen in person. But their efforts were fruitless, and
-he was hanged on June 28th, displaying great fortitude. The unhappy
-man was LL.D. of Cambridge, a clerk in holy orders, and a prebend of
-Brecon, one time tutor to the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield, and
-vicar of Wantage in Buckinghamshire. He was a man of singular
-attainments, but unhappily of a profuse and extravagant style of life.
-It was the old story, _alieni appetens, sui profusus_, and the
-embarrassment occasioned by reckless expenditure led him to an awful
-doom. Whilst awaiting his end he wrote his “Prison Thoughts,” in which
-he was assisted by Dr. Johnson.
-
-_Ealing House_ in the Park Road, now occupied as Byron House School,
-belonged to the Bonfoy family in 1691; in 1715 to Sir James Montagu,
-Baron of the Exchequer, later to General John Hawke and the Earl of
-Galloway. A further notice of this house will be found in later pages.
-
-_Its Schools_. Few, if any, places of anything like the same size,
-contain so many and so excellent Colleges, Academies, Boarding and Day
-Schools, as Ealing. Many circumstances have conspired to this result.
-In the first place, the _fons et origo_, probably, of this
-consummation, nature seems to have marked the spot for schools. The
-situation is near enough to the Thames to make the loveliest haunts
-of the river easily accessible, and it is distant enough to be free
-from the fogs and low humours of a riparian situation; it is remote
-enough from London to be almost pastoral in its charms yet close
-enough to be reached by many routes within an hour. The streets of
-the town and the urban roads are broad and well made, the latter
-lined with noble chestnuts that, in the spring, are a mass of spiked
-bloom, suggesting the boulevards of continental cities rather than
-the prosaic high ways of English life. It abounds in large open
-spaces, wide stretching greens and commons, everywhere foliage and
-bloom greet the senses. No noisome factories belch poison into the
-air. It is _rus in urbe_ in effect. The man of business can be wafted
-almost without effort to the very heart of the business centre of the
-world, and yet his home lie in gracious avenues lined with stately
-trees, and far remote from the toil and turmoil of the city and its
-eternal din. In all Ealing there is not what may be reasonably called
-a slum, and its most confined and gloomy alley might almost claim to
-rank as an open space compared with the crowded courts of the East
-End. Little wonder that the schoolmaster who is often spoken of as
-abroad is very much at home in Ealing. The illustrious men,
-distinguished in every pursuit of life, in arms, in commerce, in the
-calm of the cloister, and in the strife of the forum, in literature
-and in arts, who have drunk their first draughts of the Pierian
-Spring at Ealing, their names are many, illustrious, and historic.
-The most celebrated Private School in Great Britain, beyond question,
-was that kept in Ealing by Dr. Nicholas, and known as the Great
-Ealing School. It stood formerly on the site of the present Post
-Office in Ranelagh Road, and that of the buildings on the opposite
-side of the Ranelagh Road now used as a Repository. The House now
-called Thorne House, or St. Mary’s College, conducted by Mr. Fiscn,
-M.A., was. occupied as a Master’s House. Dr. Nicholas himself is
-spoken of more than once in Thackeray’s Papers as “Dr. Tickle-us of
-Great Ealing School.” How few private schools, indeed can any other
-private school? claim among its alumni such men as Sir Henry
-Lawrence, Lord Lawrence, Bishop Selwyn, Charles Knight, Sir Henry
-Rawlinson, William Makepeace Thackeray, Cardinal Newman, Professor
-Huxley and W. S. Gilbert. Charles Knight says of his schooldays here,
-“my school life was a real happiness. My nature bourgeoned under
-kindness.” The present Great Ealing School stands on the opposite
-side of the road to the former premises. It was built by Dr. Nicholas
-for his son, but the early death of that gentleman frustrated that
-scheme. The School is now conducted by Rev. John Chapman. It stands
-on a gravel soil, and is surrounded by nearly seven acres of ground,
-with lawns and orchards. If the list of the conspicuous successes
-gained in nearly all the Public Examinations of the present day are
-any augury for the future, the Great Ealing School bids fair to
-sustain its illustrious traditions. No school could do more.
-
-The former Master’s House, we have said, was, with an adjacent row of
-houses, opened as a school for boys by Mr. Ray. In his hands it became
-widely known, and was one of the largest private educational
-establishments in the neighbourhood of London. The present Principal
-is Mr. Jas. Fison, M.A., (London), who has given regard to the needs
-of pupils preparing for the Universities, and the Public Examinations.
-The tendency of modern education is to lay greater stress than
-formerly on scientific study, and extensive chemical and physical
-laboratories are now being erected with a well-filled workshop. It is
-confidently anticipated that these will not only be of service to the
-pupils at the school, but will be availed of by students residing in
-the neighbourhood, who seek to obtain practical experience in
-scientific or technical subjects. A large and well-appointed gymnasium
-is also in course of erection in the playground attached to the school
-and classes in physical education will be formed.
-
-In point of numbers the Byron House School, whose principals are Mr.
-B. Bruce Smith, LL.D., and the Rev. E. J. Hockly, M.A., and which is
-situate in the Park Road bears the palm. This School had a noble
-beginning. It was instituted by Lady Byron, the poet’s wife, and for
-many years that lady paid the fees of the boys admitted on her
-nomination. Her Head-Master was Mr. Charles Nelson Atlee, and in 1848
-the increasing years and infirmities of her ladyship, combined no
-doubt with a desire to mark her gratitude for Mr. Atlee’s co-operation
-for so many years, prompted Lady Byron to hand over the school
-entirely to Mr. Atlee, and it was carried on by him and his son, Mr.
-Charles Atlee, A.C.P., till the father’s death in 1866, and its
-efficiency and success may be guaged by the fact that in that period
-the number of pupils rose from 40 to 100. The school remained in Mr.
-C. Atlee’s hands till 1886, when Dr.Bruce Smith acquired it. It now
-numbers over 200 pupils, and thirteen resident and three visiting
-masters constitute a teaching staff of exceptional strength, and their
-efforts have borne fruit in the University and other competitive Class
-Lists. One of the greatest living musicians and one of the best of our
-modern sculptors received their early training at Byron School, and
-many of the banks and commercial establishments of high repute
-throughout England and the Colonies have officered their desks from
-former pupils of the School. In its earlier days Byron House
-supplemented the Battersea Training College as an Academy for
-Teachers, and a circumstance of special interest to Masters, may be
-noted in the fact that the College of Preceptors was practically
-founded in the private dining-room of Byron House School. It is beyond
-all dispute that the scheme for testing the efficiency of private
-schools, which led to the foundation of the Oxford and Cambridge Local
-Examinations, has done more than any other movement to stimulate
-education in this country. It annihilated the sluggard school-master,
-and considerably wakened up the sluggard school-boy.
-
-_The Castle Hill School_. This School presents one notable feature.
-Standing in some half-acre of ground, abutting on four acres of
-play-ground, the building itself has been designed and constructed
-specially for the use to which it is now devoted. A building whose
-original purpose is private residence is not always best adapted for a
-large school, but the architect for the Castle. Hill School with the
-initial advantage of commodious and appropriate site has produced a
-School whose adaptation of means to end, strikes the merest observer.
-The central school-room is 60ft. long, 23ft wide, and 16ft. high, and
-the sanitary arrangements of the whole structure are beyond criticism.
-The Castle Hill School was founded, but not on its present site, by
-the Rev. O. G. D. Perrott, M.A., in 1875, who transferred it in 1885
-to the present Head-Master, Mr. E. J. Morgan, 1st B. A., (London) and
-by him the present school was erected in 1891. Admittedly the
-Cambridge Local Examinations are a severe test of a school’s
-efficiency and that out of the 19 certificates gained at the Ealing
-Centre at the last Examination, 11 were secured by pupils of Mr.
-Morgan, one with first-class honours, speaks highly in the School’s
-favour.
-
-Space forbids the specific mention of all the educational advantages
-of which Ealing can boast, but lest it should be assumed these are
-confined to budding geniuses of the sterner sex, we may refer to the
-Princess Helena College, a High School for Girls, situate in
-Montpelier Road, of which the following account appeared in the
-excellent work, “Ealing Illustrated,” published in 1893, by Messrs G.
-Tyer and Co., London.
-
-“At Montpelier Road, we find the public High School for girls, known
-as the Princess Helena College, which has an interesting history
-attaching to it. It was originally founded in 1820, as a training
-school for governesses, and also for the education of the orphans of
-Military and Naval officers, members of the Civil Service, and
-Clergymen, having been established as a memorial to H.R.H. Princess
-Charlotte of Wales. At this time, it was known as the Audit and Orphan
-Institution, and was situated near Regent’s Park, London. Greater
-accommodation eventually became necessary, however, and a movement was
-set on foot, under the presidency of Princess Christian, to erect
-larger and more suitable buildings. The site now occupied was chosen,
-and the present erection was built at a cost of £10,000, from designs
-by Mr. S. Bannister, of Lincolns Inn Fields. Although, as we have
-stated, it is now a Public High School for girls, the original object
-of its foundation has not been lost sight of, and a portion of its
-revenue derived from subscription is devoted to the education of girls
-of the classes before referred to.”
-
-Ealing is the home of many charitable institutions and the Training
-College for Teachers of the Deaf, situate at Elmhurst, Castlebar Hill,
-under the Presidency of the Archbishop of Canterbury, has a wide
-reputation. One of the Homes of the London Police Court Mission is to
-be found in Church Lane, where, under the energetic and sympathetic
-superintendence of Mr. Robert Marshall, those who have slipped from
-the straight path, find help and encouragement in the hard and uphill
-struggle to redeem the past.
-
-The municipal Government of Ealing is vested in a Local Board formed
-on May 25th, 1863, superseding the old Highway Board with its nine
-life members. That the Local Board has been enterprising a retrospect
-of thirty years would amply prove: that its policy has been
-successful, a few figures abundantly establish. In 1863 the
-population was about 5,200. It now exceeds 37,000. In 1863 its
-rateable value was £18,396, it is now over £167,000, That it has
-jealously insisted that sanitary safeguards should accompany the swift
-stride of progress may be inferred from the fact that Ealing has but
-a death-rate of 11:23 per 1000, whilst professed and we may say
-professional health resorts like Eastbourne, Harrogate, Cheltenham,
-and Scarborough, range from near 15 to close on 19 per 1000.
-
-For Parliamentary purposes Ealing, with Chiswick and Acton,
-constitutes the Ealing Division. Lord George Hamilton is the present
-member, and it may be said that the Conservative view is in much favor
-in Ealing. There are those who assert a necessary connection between
-this fact and the abundance and excellence of its educational
-advantages. This History sayeth not how this may be.
-
-The municipal Hall of the Town Fathers is in the Uxbridge Road, and is
-an imposing structure in the Early Decorated Style from the designs of
-Mr. C. Jones, C.E. surveyor to the Local Board to whose skill and care
-Ealing is much indebted. The Public Buildings comprise a Free Library,
-Science and Art School and the Victoria Jubilee Hall, largely used for
-public meetings and popular entertainments. If to this we add that the
-Lyric Hall furnishes forth a charming theatre, to which the cult of
-the higher drama attracts the not infrequent visits of world-famed
-artistes, enough has been said to assure the most confirmed haunter of
-cities that though Ealing is not Mayfair, one might have a worse fate
-than to be banished thither. It was interesting in the past, it is
-beautiful and flourishing in the present, and it has no fears for the
-future.
-
-
-
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