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diff --git a/old/66812-0.txt b/old/66812-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 91b5956..0000000 --- a/old/66812-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15278 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lake Regions of Central Africa, by -Richard Francis Burton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Lake Regions of Central Africa - A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1 - -Author: Richard Francis Burton - -Release Date: November 24, 2021 [eBook #66812] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Emmanuel Ackerman, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL -AFRICA *** - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - Text printed in italics has been transcribed _between underscores_, - bold face text =between equal signs=. Small capitals have been changed - to ALL CAPITALS. Superscript text is represented by ^{text}. - - More Transcriber’s Notes may be found at the end of this text. - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA - - VOL. I. - - - - - LONDON - PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. - NEW-STREET SQUARE - - -[Illustration: THE IVORY PORTER.] - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA - - A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION - - BY - - RICHARD F. BURTON - Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal - Geographical Society - - “_Some to discover islands far away_”--_Shakspere_ - - IN TWO VOLUMES - - VOL. I. - - LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 - - _The right of translation is reserved_ - - - - - TO - - MY SISTER, - - MARIA STISTED, - - THESE PAGES ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED - - - - -PREFACE. - - -I had intended this record of personal adventure to appear immediately -after my return to Europe, in May 1859. The impaired health, the -depression of spirits, and worse still the annoyance of official -correspondence, which to me have been the sole results of African -Exploration, may be admitted as valid reasons for the delay. - -In April, 1860, the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain honoured -me by publishing a detailed paper, forming the XXIXth Volume of their -Journal, from which the topographical descriptions contained in the -following pages have, with their kind permission, been extracted. I have -now attempted to combine with geography and ethnology, a narrative of -occurrences and an exposition of the more popular and picturesque points -of view which the subject offers. - -When I communicated to my friends the publishers certain intentions of -writing an exclusively “light work,” they protested against the project, -stating that the public appetite required the addition of stronger meat. -In compliance, therefore, with their suggestion, I have drawn two -portraits of the same object, and mingled the gay with the graver -details of travel, so as to produce an antipathetic cento. - -Modern “hinters to travellers” direct the explorer and the missionary to -eschew theory and opinion. We are told somewhat peremptorily that it is -our duty to gather actualities not inferences--to see and not to think, -in fact, to confine ourselves to transmitting the rough material -collected by us, that it may be worked into shape by the professionally -learned at home. But why may not the observer be allowed a voice -concerning his own observations, if at least his mind be sane and his -stock of collateral knowledge be respectable? - -I have not attempted to avoid intruding matters of a private and -personal nature upon the reader; it would have been impossible to avoid -egotism in a purely egotistical narrative. The official matter, however, -has been banished into Appendix II. In publishing it, my desire is to -avoid the possibility of a charge being concealed in the pigeon-holes of -the India House, to be produced, according to custom, with all the -effect of a surprise whenever its presence is convenient. I know the -conditions of appealing from those in office to a higher tribunal--the -Public. I well know them and I accept them. _Avant tout, gentilhomme!_ - -I have spoken out my feelings concerning Captain Speke, my companion in -the Expedition which forms the subject of these pages. The history of -our companionship is simply this:--As he had suffered with me in purse -and person at Berberah, in 1855, I thought it but just to offer him the -opportunity of renewing an attempt to penetrate into Africa. I had no -other reasons. I could not expect much from his assistance; he was not a -linguist--French and Arabic being equally unknown to him--nor a man of -science, nor an accurate astronomical observer. The Court of Directors -officially refused him leave of absence; I obtained it for him by an -application to the local authorities at Bombay. During the exploration -he acted in a subordinate capacity; and as may be imagined amongst a -party of Arabs, Baloch, and Africans, whose languages he ignored, he was -unfit for any other but a subordinate capacity. Can I then feel -otherwise than indignant, when I find that, after preceding me from Aden -to England, with the spontaneous offer, on his part, of not appearing -before the Society that originated the Expedition until my return, he -had lost no time in taking measures to secure for himself the right of -working the field which I had opened, and that from that day he has -placed himself _en evidence_ as the _primum mobile_ of an Expedition, in -which he signed himself “surveyor,”--_cujus pars minima fuit_? - -With deference to the reader’s judgment, I venture to express a hope -that whatever of unrefinement appears in these pages, may be charged to -the subject. It has been my duty to draw a Dutch picture, a -cabaret-piece which could not be stripped of its ordonnance, its boors, -its pipes, and its pots. I have shirked nothing of the unpleasant -task,--of recording processes and not only results; I have entered into -the recital of the maladies, the weary squabbles, and the vast variety -of petty troubles, without which the _coup d’œil_ of African adventure -would be more like a Greek Saint in effigy--all lights and no -shade--than the chapter of accidents which it now is. - -The map and the lists of stations, dates, &c., have been drawn upon the -plan adopted by Mr. Francis Galton, F.R.G.S. The outline of Africa, the -work of Mr. Weller, F.R.G.S., contains the latest and the best -information concerning the half-explored interior of the Continent. The -route-map has been borrowed by permission from the laborious and -conscientious compilation of Mr. Findlay, F.R.G.S., accompanying the -paper forwarded by me to the Royal Geographical Society. The latter -gentleman has also kindly supplied a profile of the country traversed, -showing the Eastern limits of the Great Depression, and the -“elevated-trough formation” of Central Africa. - -In conclusion, I would solicit forbearance in all that concerns certain -errors of omission and commission scattered through these pages. The -migratory instinct is now hurrying me towards the New World: I have, -therefore, been obliged to content myself with a single revise. - - 10th April, - E.I.U.S. Club, 14 St. James’s Square. - - - - -DATES OF JOURNEYING. - - 1856| September |Left England. - |2nd December |Sailed from Bombay. - |19th December |Arrived at Zanzibar Island. - 1857|6th January |Left Zanzibar the first time. - |14th June |Left Zanzibar the second time. - |27th June |Set out from Kaole on the coast. - |7th November |Arrived at Unyanyembe of Unyamwezi. - 1858|14th February |Reached Ujiji on the Tanganyika Lake. - |26th April |Arrived at Uvira on the North of the Tanganyika - | |Lake. - |26th May |Left Ujiji. - |19th June |Returned to Unyanyembe. - |26th September|Left Unyanyembe. - 1859|3rd February |Reached Konduchi on the coast. - |4th March |Landed at Zanzibar Island. - |4th May |Left Aden. - |20th May |Landed at Southampton. - - - - -LIST STASIMETRIC AND HYPSOMETRIC. - - NAMES OF KHAMBI OR STAGES MADE BY THE EAST AFRICAN EXPEDITION, AND - HEIGHTS OF THE SEVERAL CRUCIAL STATIONS. - - -FIRST REGION. - - +-----+------------------------------------------------+-----+ - | | FROM KAOLE ON THE COAST TO ZUNGOMERO, CHIEF | | - | | DISTRICT OF K’HUTU. | | - +-----+------------------------------------------------+-----+ - | | |H. M.| - | 1 | Kaoli to Mgude or Kuingani | 1 30| - | 2 | Kuingani to Bomani | 1 30| - | 3 | Bomani to Mkwaju la Mvuani | 0 30| - | 4 | Mkwaju to Nzasa (of Uzaramo) | 3 20| - | 5 | Nzasa to Kiranga-Ranga | 6 0| - | 6 | Kiranga-Ranga to Tumba Ihere | 3 30| - | 7 | Tumba Ihere to Muhonyera | 4 40| - | 8 | Muhonyera to Sagesera | 2 45| - | 9 | Sagesera to Tunda | 7 0| - | 10 | Tunda to Dege la Mhora | 2 30| - | 11 | Dege la Mhora to Madege Madogo | 3 0| - | 12 | Madege Madogo to Kidunda | 3 0| - | 13 | Kidunda to Mgeta Ford | 7 0| - | 14 | Mgeta Ford to Kiruru in K’hutu | 6 0| - | 15 | Kiruru to Dut’humi | 6 40| - | 16 | Dut’humi to Bakera | 2 0| - | 17 | Bakera to Zungomero | 7 0| - +-----+ +-----+ - | ☉17 | |67 55| - +-----+------------------------------------------------+-----+ - |Kaole, Latitude, South, 6° 25′ Longitude, East, 38° 51′.| - |Zungomero, „ 7° 27′ „ 37° 22′.| - | Altitude of Zungomero, 330 feet above sea level. Average | - | altitude of First Region, by B. P. Therm., 230 feet. | - +------------------------------------------------------------+ - - -SECOND REGION. - - +---+----------------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | FROM ZUNGOMERO, OVER THE MOUNTAINS OF USAGARA, | | - | | TO UGOGI. | | - +---+----------------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | | H. M.| - | 1|Zungomero to Mzizi Mdogo (in Usagara) | 5 0| - | 2| Mzizi Mdogo to Chya K’henge | 4 30| - | 3|Chya K’henge to Rufuta River | 4 30| - | 4|Rufuta River (up the Goma Pass) to Mfu’uni | 1 50| - | 5|Mfu’uni to “Overshot Nullah” | 6 10| - | 6|“Overshot Nullah” to Zonhwe | 2 0| - | 7|Zonhwe to Muhama | 4 45| - | 8|Muhama to Makata | 6 30| - | 9|Makata to Myombo River | 4 30| - | 10|Myombo River to Mbumi | 4 30| - | 11|Mbumi to Kadetamare | 5 55| - | 12|Kadetamare to Muinyi | 8 10| - | 13|Muinyi to Nidabi | 4 50| - | 14|Nidabi to Rumuma | 5 30| - | 15|Rumuma to Marenga Mk’hali | 3 30| - | 16|Marenga Mk’hali to ☉ in Jungle | 5 0| - | 17|Jungle to Inenge | 4 0| - | 18|Inenge to first gradient of Rubeho Pass | 6 30| - | 19|First gradient to second gradient ditto | 2 0| - | 20|Second gradient to summit of Rubeho | 1 45| - | 21|Summit to ☉ one quarter of the way down the counterslope | 3 0| - | 22|From ☉ on slope to ☉ below half-way | 5 0| - | 23|From ☉ below half-way to Ugogi at the base | 4 0| - +---+ +------+ - |☉23 + 27 (carried forward) = 33 ☉’s 103 25| - | Carried forward, 67 55| - | ------+ - | Total hours from the coast to Ugogi 171 20| - +---------------------------------------------------------------------+ - |Rubeho Pass, (about) Latitude, South, 6° 38′ Longitude, East, 36° 19′| - |Ugogi, „ 6° 40′ „ 36° 6′| - | Altitude of Rubeho summit, 5700. Altitude of Ugogi at Western | - | Counterslope, by B. P. Therm. 2770. | - +---------------------------------------------------------------------+ - - -THIRD REGION. - - +------------+------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | FROM UGOGI, THROUGH MARENGA MK’HALI, UGOGO, | | - | | AND MGUNDA MK’HALI, TO TURA OF UNYAMWEZI. | | - +------------+------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | | H. M.| - | ☉ 1|Ugogi to ☉ in Jungle | 4 0| - | { 2|Jungle to Marenga Mk’hali (second of that name) | 4 40| - |Marenga { 3|Marenga Mk’hali to ☉ in Jungle | 4 10| - |Mk’hali.{ 4|☉ in Jungle to ☉ in Jungle | 5 0| - | { 5|☉ in Jungle to Ziwa or tank (on frontier of | | - | { |Ugogo) | 2 0| - | { 6|Ziwa to Kifukuru | 3 0| - | { 7|Kifukuru to ☉ in Jungle | 5 40| - | { 8|☉ in Jungle to Kanyenye | 1 25| - | { 9|Kanyenye to Kanyenye of Magomba | 2 45| - |Ugogo. { 10|Kanyenye of Magomba to ☉ in Jungle | 5 0| - | { 11|☉ in Jungle to K’hok’ho | 7 40| - | { 12|K’hok’ho to Mdaburu | 6 20| - | { 13|Mdaburu to ☉ in Jungle of Mgunda Mk’hali | 6 30| - | { 14|Mgunda Mk’hali to Mabunguru | 6 0| - | { 15|Mabunguru to Jiwe la Mkoa | 7 0| - |Mganda { 16|Jiwe la Mkoa to Kirurumo | 3 10| - |Mk’hali.{ 17|Kirurumo to Jiweni of Uyanzi | 4 30| - | { 18|Jiweni to Mgongo Thembo | 2 20| - | { 19|Mgongo Thembo to ☉ Tura Nullah | 7 0| - | { 20|☉ Tura Nullah to Tura in Unyamwezi | 5 30| - +------------+ +------+ - | ☉20 + 33 (carried forward) = 53. 93 40| - | Carried forward 171 20| - | -------+ - | Total hours from the coast to Tura 265 0| - +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ - |Eastern limit of Tura, Latitude, South, 5° 27′ Longitude, East, 34°.| - |Altitude, by Bath. Thermometer, 4125 feet. | - +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ - - -FOURTH REGION. - - +----------+------------------------------------------+-------------+ - | | THROUGH UNYAMWEZI, UGARA, UWENDE, AND | | - | | UVINZA, TO FORD OF MALAGARAZI RIVER. | | - +----------+------------------------------------------+-------------+ - | | | H. M. | - | 1|Eastern limit of Tura to Western Tura. | 1 30 | - | 2|Western Tura to Kwale Nullah | 6 30 | - | 3|Kwale Nullah to Eastern Rubuga | 5 45 | - | 4|Eastern Rubuga to Western Rubuga | 2 40 | - | 5|Western Rubuga to Ukona | 2 15 | - | 6|Ukona to Kigwa | 5 5 | - | 7|Kigwa to Hanga village | 6 30 | - | 8|Hanga to Kazeh (Arab ☉) | 5 0 | - | 9|Kazeh to Zimbili Hill | 1 40 | - | 10|Zimbili to Yombo | 2 0 | - | 11|Yombo to Pano (clearing in Jungle) | 4 0 | - | 12|Pano to Eastern Mfuto | 1 40 | - | 13|Eastern Mfuto to Western Mfuto | 2 0 | - | 14|Western Mfuto to Eastern Wilyankuru | 6 30 | - | 15|Eastern Wilyankuru to Central Wilyankuru | 2 50 | - | 16|Central Wilyankuru to Western Wilyankuru | 2 0 | - | 17|Western Wilyankuru to Masenge | 2 30}Expe- | - | 18|Masenge to Eastern Kirira | 2 0}dition| - | 19|Eastern Kirira to Western Kirira | 3 0}sepa- | - | 20|Western Kirira to Eastern Msene | 4 0}rated.| - | 21|Eastern Msene to Western Msene (Arab ☉) | 2 0 | - | 22|Western Msene to Mbhali | 1 30 | - | 23|Mbhali to Sengati | 2 0 | - | 24|Sengati to Sorora or Solola | 0 45 | - | 25|Sorora to Ukungwe | 2 15 | - | 26|Ukungwe to Panda | 1 50 | - | 27|Panda to Kajjanjeri | 1 30 | - | 28|Kajjanjeri to Eastern Usagozi | 3 45 | - | 29|Eastern Usagozi to Western Usagozi | 1 0 | - | 30|Western Usagozi to Masenga of Wagara | 2 0 | - | 31|Masenga to Mukozimo of Wawende | 2 45 | - | 32|Mukozimo to Uganza of Wanyamwezi | 3 15 | - | {33|Uganza to Usenye of Wavinza | 4 0 | - | {34|Usenye to Rukunda | 2 20 | - |Uvinza.{35|Rukunda to Wanyika | 3 0 | - | {36|Wanyika to Unyanguruwwe | 4 50 | - | {37|Unyanguruwwe to Ugaga on the Malagarazi | | - | |River | 3 0 | - +----------+ +-------------+ - | ☉ 37 + 53 (carried over) = 90 110 30 | - | Carried forward 265 0 | - | --------------+ - | Total hours from coast to Malagarazi River 375 30 | - +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ - |Kazeh Latitude, South, 5° 1′. Longitude, East, 33° 3′.| - |Malagarazi Ferry. „ 5° 7′. „ 31° 13′.| - | Altitude of Kazeh, by Bath Therm. 3490 feet. | - | „ Usenye „ 3190 „ | - +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ - - -FIFTH REGION. - - +----+---------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | FROM THE MALAGARAZI FERRY TO UKARANGA ON THE | | - | | TANGANYIKA LAKE. | | - +----+---------------------------------------------------+------+ - | | | H. M.| - | 1|Ugaga on left to Mpete on right hand | 0 25| - | 2|Mpete to Kinawani | 5 20| - | 3|Kinawani to ☉ in Jungle | 5 25| - | 4|☉ in Jungle to Jambeho | 1 40| - | 5|Jambeho to Salt pans of Rusugi River | 5 15| - | 6|Salt pans to ☉ in Jungle | 4 20| - | 7|☉ in Jungle to Ruguvu River | 3 30| - | 8|Ruguvu River to Unguwwe River | 4 40| - | 9|Unguwwe River to ☉ in Jungle | 7 35| - | 10|☉ in Jungle to Ukaranga on Lake | 6 35| - +----+ +------+ - |☉ 10 + 90 (carried forward) = 100 44 45| - | Carried forward 375 30| - | ------+ - | Total hours from the coast to the Tanganyika Lake 420 25| - +---------------------------------------------------------------+ - |Ukaranga, Latitude, South, 4° 58′. Longitude, East, 30° 3′ 30″.| - | Altitude by Bath Therm. 1850. | - +---------------------------------------------------------------+ - -The distance from Kaole to Ujiji is of 540 rectilinear geographical -miles: or in statute miles, allowing one for windings of the road, thus: - - From Kaole to Kazeh, statute miles 520 - From Kazeh to Ujiji, „ 276 - --- - 796 - Add one fifth for detour--159 miles 159 - --- - Total of statute miles 955 - -Assuming the absolute time of travelling to be 420 hours, this will give -a marching rate of 2·27 miles per hour. - - - - - CONTENTS - OF - THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - Page - - CHAPTER I. - We quit Zanzibar Island in Dignified Style 1 - - CHAP. II. - Zanzibar and the Mrima explained 28 - - CHAP. III. - Transit of the Valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta Rivers 41 - - CHAP. IV. - On the Geography and Ethnology of the First Region 100 - - CHAP. V. - Halt at Zungomero, and Formation of the Caravan 127 - - CHAP. VI. - We cross the East African Ghauts 158 - - CHAP. VII. - The Geography and Ethnology of the Second Region 225 - - CHAP. VIII. - We succeed in traversing Ugogo 241 - - CHAP. IX. - The Geography and Ethnography of Ugogo--the Third Region 294 - - CHAP. X. - We enter Unyamwezi, the Far-famed Land of the Moon 313 - - CHAP. XI. - We conclude the Transit of Unyamwezi 375 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - IN - THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - CHROMOXYLOGRAPHS. - - The Ivory Porter _Frontispiece._ - Zanzibar Town from the Sea _to face page_ 1 - A Town on the Mrima „ 28 - Explorers in East Africa „ 127 - The East African Ghauts „ 158 - View in Unyamwezi „ 313 - - - WOODCUTS. - - The Wazaramo Tribe 41 - Party of Wah’hutu Women 100 - A village in K’hutu. The Silk Cotton Tree 157 - Sycomore Tree in the Dhun Ugogi 158 - Maji ya W’heta, or the Jetting Fountain in K’hutu 225 - Ugogo 241 - Usagara Mountains, seen from Ugogo 294 - Ladies’ Smoking Party 313 - African House Building 375 - - -[Illustration: ZANZIBAR TOWN FROM THE SEA.] - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -WE QUIT ZANZIBAR ISLAND IN DIGNIFIED STYLE. - - -At noon, on the 16th of June, 1857, the corvette Artémise, after the -usual expenditure of gunpowder which must in Eastern lands announce -every momentous event, from the birth of a prince to the departure of a -bishop, slowly gliding out of Zanzibar harbour, afforded us a farewell -glance at the whitewashed mosques and houses of the Arabs, the -cadjan-huts, the cocoa-grown coasts, and the ruddy hills striped with -long lines of clove. Onwards she stole before a freshening breeze, the -balmy breath of the Indian Ocean, under a sun that poured a flood of -sparkling light over the azure depths and the bright green shallows -around, between the “elfin isles” of Kumbeni, with its tall trees, and -Chumbi, tufted with dense thickets, till the white sandstrip mingled -with the blue ocean, the gleaming line of dwarf red cliff and scaur -dropped into the water’s edge, the land faded from emerald to brown, and -from brown to hazy purple, the tufts of the trees seemed first to stand -out of, then to swim upon, the wave, and as evening, the serenest of -tropical evenings, closed in over sky, earth, and sea, a cloud-like -ridge, dimly discernible from our quarter, was all that remained of -Zanzibar. - -I will not here stay the course of my narrative to inform the reader -that Zanzibar is not, as the Cyclopædias declare, “an island of Africa, -governed by a king who is subject to the Portuguese;” that it is not, as -the Indian post-offices appear to believe, a part of the Persian Gulf; -nor, as homekeeping folk, whose notions of African geography are -somewhat dim and ill-defined, have mentally determined, a rock in the -Red Sea, nor a dependency of the Niger, nor even an offshoot of the Cape -of Storms. - -The Artémise is a kind of “Jackass-frigate,” an 18-gun corvette, -teak-built in Bombay, with a goodly breadth of beam, a slow sailer, but -a sure. In the days of our deceased ally, Sayyid Said, the misnamed -“Imaum of Muscat,” she had so frequently been placed by his Highness at -the disposal of his old friend Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, that she had -acquired the sobriquet of “the Balyuz or Consul’s yacht.” On this -occasion she had been fitted up for a cruise to the mainland; her yards, -usually struck, had been swayed up and thrown across; her top spars had -been transferred from the hold to their proper place; her ropes and -rigging, generally hanging in tatters about her sticks, had been -carefully overhauled; her old sails had been bent, and her usual crew, a -few slaves that held their own with difficulty against a legion of rats -and an army of cockroaches, had been increased to its full complement of -twenty men. His Highness the Sayyid Majid, who after the demise of his -father had assumed the title of “Sultan of Zanzibar and the Sawahil,” -came on board accompanied by his four brothers, of whom two--Sayyids -Jamshid and Hamdan--died of small-pox before our return, and one--Sayyid -Barghash--has lately become a state prisoner at Bombay, to bid what -proved a last adieu to his father’s friend. At the same time His -Highness honoured me, through his secretary, Ahmed bin Nuuman, more -generally known as Wajhayn, or “Two-faces,” with three letters of -introduction, to Musa Mzuri, the Indian doyen of the merchants settled -at Unyamwezi, to the Arabs there resident, and to all his subjects who -were travelling into the interior. - -The Artémise conveyed the _personnel_ and the _matériel_ of the East -African Expedition, namely, the two European members--my companion and -myself--two Portuguese, or rather half-caste Goanese “boys,” two Negro -gun-carriers, the Seedy Mubarak Mombai (Bombay), and Muinyi Mabruki, his -“brother,” and finally, eight so-called “Baloch” mercenaries, a guard -appointed by the Sultan to accompany me. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, at -that time Her Majesty’s consul and Hon. East India Company’s agent at -Zanzibar, though almost lethargic from the effects of protracted -illness--he lived only in the evening--had deemed it his duty to land us -upon the coast, and to superintend our departure from the dangerous -seaboard. He was attended by Mr. Frost, the apothecary attached to the -consulate, whose treatment for a fatal liver-complaint appeared to -consist of minute doses of morphia and a liberal diet of sugar. - -By Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s advice, I ventured to modify the scheme of -the East African Expedition, as originally proposed by the Expeditionary -Committee of the Royal Geographical Society of London. In 1855, M. -Erhardt, an energetic member of the hapless “Mombas Mission,” had on his -return to London offered to explore a vast mass of water, about the size -of the Caspian, which, from the information of divers “natives,” he had -deposited in slug or leech shape in the heart of Intertropical Africa, -thus prolonging the old “Maravi,” or “Moravim Lake” of Portuguese -travellers and school atlases, to the north of the equator, and thus -bringing a second deluge upon sundry provinces and kingdoms thoroughly -well known for the last half century. He had proposed to land, with an -outfit of 300 dollars[1], at Kilwa, one of the southern ports of the -Zanzibar mainland, to hire a score of Wasawahili porters, to march with -a caravan upon the nearest point of his own water, and to launch an -adventurous canoe upon a lake which, according to his map, could not be -traversed under twenty-five days. Messrs. Erhardt and Krapf, of the -“Mombas Mission,” spent, it is true, a few hours at Kilwa, where they -were civilly entreated by the governor and the citizens; but they -egregiously deceived themselves and others, when they concluded that -they could make that place their ingress-point. Lieut. Christopher, -I.N., who visited the East African coast in 1843, wisely advised -explorers to avoid the neighbourhood of Kilwa. Wisely, I repeat: the -burghers of that proud old settlement had, only a year before my -arrival, murdered, by means of the Wangindo savages, an Arab merchant -who ventured to lay open the interior. - - [1] The sum was wholly inadequate. M. Erhardt has, I have been told, - expended as much on a week’s march from Pangani Town to Fuga. The - smallest of Wasawahili pedlars would hardly deem an outfit of 300 - dollars sufficient. M. Erhardt was, even according to his own reduced - ideas of distance, to march with twenty followers 400 miles, and to - explore a lake 300 miles in breadth and of unknown length. In 1802, - when cloth and beads were twice their present value in Africa, the - black Pombeiros sent by M. Da Costa, superintendent of the “Cassangi - Factory,” carried with them for the necessary expenses and presents, - goods to the value of nearly 500_l._ M. Erhardt’s estimate was highly - injurious to future travellers: either he knew the truth, and he - should have named at once a reasonable estimate, or he was ignorant of - the subject, and he should have avoided it. The consequence of his - proposal was simply this:--With 5000_l._ instead of 1000_l._, the - limited sum of the Government grant, the East African Expedition could - have explored the whole central area; nothing but the want of supplies - caused their return at the time when, after surmounting sickness, - hardship, and want of discipline amongst the party, they were ready to - push to the extreme end. - -At the same time I had laid before the Council of the Royal Geographical -Society my desire to form an expedition primarily for the purpose of -ascertaining the limits of the “Sea of Ujiji, or Unyamwezi Lake,” and -secondarily, to determine the exportable produce of the interior, and -the ethnography of its tribes. I have quoted exactly the words of the -application. In these days every explorer of Central Africa is supposed -to have set out in quest of the coy sources of the White Nile, and when -he returns without them, his exploration, whatever may have been its -value, is determined to be a failure. The Council honoured my plans with -their approval. At their solicitation, the Foreign Office granted the -sum of 1000_l._ for the outlay of the exploration, and the defunct Court -of Directors of the late East India Company, who could not be persuaded -to contribute towards the expenses, generously allowed me two years’ -leave of absence from regimental duty, for the purpose of commanding the -Expedition. I also received instructions to report myself to his -Excellency the Lord Elphinstone, then Governor of Bombay, and to -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, from whose influence and long experience much -was expected. - -When the starting-point came to be debated, the Consul strongly objected -to an Expedition into the interior _viâ_ Kilwa, on account of the -opposition to be expected at a port so distant from the seat of -government, where the people, half-caste Arabs and Wasawahili, who are -under only a nominal control, still retained a strong predilection for -protection, and a violent hostility to strangers. These reasons led him -to propose my landing upon the coast opposite Zanzibar, and to my thence -marching with a strong escort, despatched by the Arab prince, through -the maritime tribes, whose cruel murder of M. Maizan, the first European -known to have penetrated beyond the sea-board, was yet fresh in the -memories of men. This notion was accepted the more readily, as during my -short preliminary sojourn at Zanzibar, I had satisfactorily ascertained -from Arab travellers that the Maravi or Kilwa Lake is distinct from the -“Sea of Ujiji;” that the former is of comparatively diminutive -dimensions; that there is no caravan route between the two; and -therefore that, by exploring the smaller, I should lose the chance of -discovering the larger water. Moreover, the general feeling of the -Zanzibarites--of the Christian merchants, whom I had offended by -collecting statistics about copal-digging, ivory, and sesamum--of the -Bhattias or Hindus of Cutch, who systematically abuse the protection of -the British flag to support the interest of the slave trade--of the -Arabs, who remembered nothing but political intrigue in the explorations -of the “Mombas Mission,” and the lamentable result of Dr. Krapf’s -political intrigues--and of the Africans generally, who are disposed to -see in every innovation some new form of evil--had been conveyed to my -ears explicitly enough to warrant my apprehensions for the success of -the Expedition, had I insisted upon carrying out the project proposed by -M. Erhardt. - -I must here explain, that before my departure from England, the Church -Missionary Society had supplied me, after a personal interview in -Salisbury Square, with a letter to their _employé_, M. Rebmann, the last -remnant of that establishment at Mombasah, which had, it is said, -expended about 12,000_l._ with the minimest of results. The missionaries -had commenced operations with vigour, and to the work of conversion they -had added certain discoveries in the unknown lands of the interior, -which attracted the attention of European geographers. Unhappily Dr. -Krapf, the principal, happened to commit himself by the following -assertion:--“The Imaum of Muskat has not an inch of ground on the coast -between the Island of Wassin and the Pangani River; this tract, in fact, -belonging to King Kmeri of Usumbara, down from 4° 30′ to 5° 30′ S. The -tract, which is very low, is inhabited by the Wasegua tribes, and is the -chief slave-market for supplying Zanzibar.” - -This “information,” put forth in the Journal of the Royal Geographical -Society (vol. i. p. 203), was copied into the Proceedings (vol. xxiii. -p. 106), with the remark, that the territory alluded to was a “supposed -possession” of the Imaum. Orientals are thin-skinned upon questions of -land; the assertion was directly opposed to fact, and the jealousy of -the rival representatives at Zanzibar each on his own side, exaggerated -its tendency. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, who felt his influence sapped by -this error on the part of his protégé, had reported the facts to his -government. Dr. Krapf had quitted the scene of his labours and -discoveries, but his Highness the Sultan and the sadat, or court, -retained a lively remembrance of the regretable incident. Before the -arrival of the Expedition, “Muhiyy-el-Din,” the Shafei Kazi of the -island, had called upon Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, probably by direction -of his superiors, and had received an answer, fortified by an oath, that -the Expedition was wholly independent of “Dutchmen,” as the missionaries -were called by the Zanzibarites. I was compelled, somewhat unwillingly, -to dispense with urging M. Rebmann’s presence. By acting in any other -way I should have lost the assistance of the consul, and the Arabs, with -a ready display of zeal, would have secured for me an inevitable -failure. - -At six P.M. on Wednesday, the 17th of June, 1857, the Artémise cast -anchor off Wale Point, a long, low bush-grown sandspit, about -eighty-four miles distant from the little town of Bagamoyo. Our -sailing-master, Mohammed bin Khamis, anchored in deep water, throwing -out double the length of chain required. For this prudence, however, -there was some reason. The road-steads are open; the muddy bottom -shelves gradually, almost imperceptibly; the tides retire ten or eleven -feet, and a strong gale, accompanied by the dangerous raz de marée, or -rollers from seaward, especially at the seasons of the syzygies, with -such a shore to leeward, is justly dreaded by the crews of square-rigged -vessels. - -There is a something peculiarly interesting in the first aspect of the -“Mrima,” the hill-land, as this portion of the African coast is called -by the islanders of Zanzibar. On one side lies the Indian Ocean, -illimitable towards the east, dimpled with its “anerithmon gelasma,” and -broken westward by a thin line of foam, creaming upon the whitest and -finest of sand, the detritus of coralline and madrepore. It dents the -coast deeply, forming bays, bayous, lagoons, and backwaters, where, -after breaking their force upon bars and black ledges of sand and rock, -upon diabolitos, or sun-stained masses of a coarse conglomerate, and -upon strong weirs planted in crescent shape, the waters lie at rest in -the arms of the land like sheets of oil. The points and islets formed by -these sea-streams are almost flush with the briny surface, yet they are -overgrown with a profuse vegetation, the result of tropical suns and -copious showers, which supply the want of rich soil. The banks of the -backwaters are lined with forests of white and red mangrove. When the -tide is out, the cone-shaped root-work supporting each tree rises naked -from the deep sea-ooze; parasitical oysters cluster over the trunks at -water-level, and between the adults rise slender young shoots, tipped -with bunches of brilliant green. The pure white sand is bound together -by a kind of convolvulus, whose large fleshy leaves and lilac-coloured -flowers creep along the loose soil. Where raised higher above the ocean -level, the coast is a wall of verdure. Plots of bald old trees, bent by -the regular breezes, betray the positions of settlements which, -generally sheltered from sight, besprinkle the coast in a long -straggling line, like the suburbs of a populous city. Of these, thirteen -were counted in a space of three miles. The monotony of green that -clothes the soil is relieved in places by dwarf earth-cliffs and scaurs -of rufous hue--East Africa is mostly a red land--and behind the -foreground of littoral or alluvial plain, at a distance varying from -three to five miles, rises a blue line of higher level, conspicuous even -from Zanzibar Island, the sandy raised beach now the frontier of the -wild men. To this sketch add its accompaniment; by day, the plashing of -the wave, and the scream of the gull, with the perpetual hum and buzz of -insect life; and, after sunset, the deep, dead silence of a tropical -night, broken only by the roar of the old bull-crocodile at his -resting-time, the qua-qua of the night-heron, and the shouts and shots -of the watchmen, who know from the grunts of the hippopotamus, -struggling up the bank, that he is quitting his watery home to pay a -visit to their fields. - -We were delayed ten days off Wale Point by various preliminaries to -departure. Said bin Salim, a half-caste Arab of Zanzibar, who, sorely -against his will, was ordered by the prince to act as Ras Kafilah, or -caravan-guide, had, after ceaseless and fruitless prayers for delay, -preceded us about a fortnight, for the purpose of collecting porters. -The timid little man, whose nerves were shaken to weeping-point by the -terrors of the way, and by the fancy that, thus cooperating with the -exploration, he was incurring the hatred of his fellows, had “taken the -shilling,” in the shape of 500 dollars, advanced from public funds by -the consul, with a promise of an ample reward in hard coin, and a gold -watch, “si se bene gesserit:” at the same time Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton -had warned me against trusting to a half-caste. Accompanied by a Cutch -Banyan of the Bhattia caste, by name Ramji--of whom more anon--he had -crossed over, on the 1st of June, to the main-land, and had hired a gang -of porters, who, however, hearing that their employer was a Muzungu, a -“white man,” at once dispersed, forgetting to return their hire. About -one hundred and seventy men were required; only thirty-six were -procurable. The large amount of carriage was necessitated by the bulky -and ponderous nature of African specie, cotton cloth, brass-wire, and -beads, of which a total of seventy loads was expended in one year and -nine months. Moreover, under the impression that “vert and venison” -abounded in the interior, I had provided ammunition for two years,--ten -thousand copper-caps of sizes, forty boxes, each restricted, for -convenience of porterage, to forty pounds, and containing ball, grape, -and shot, six fire-proof magazines, and two small barrels of fine -powder, weighing in total fifty pounds, together with four ten-pound -kegs of a coarser kind for the escort,--in all, two hundred rounds for -each individual of the party. This supply was deemed necessary on -account of the immense loss to which ammunition is subjected by theft -and weather in these lands. - -On the second day after anchoring off Wale Point, a native boat brought -on board the Artémise Ladha Damha, the collector of customs at Zanzibar, -who, in compliment to Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, of old his friend and -patron, had torn himself from his beloved occupations to push the -departure of the Expedition. Ladha, hearing that the Arab merchants had -hastened to secure their gangs before corrupted by the more liberal -offers of the “white men,”--“Pagazi,” or porters, being at that time -scarce, because the caravans from the interior had not yet reached the -coast,--proposed to send forward the thirty-six fellows hired by Said -bin Salim, with orders to await the arrival of their employer at -Zungomero, in the land of K’hutu, a point situated beyond the plundering -maritime tribes. These men carried goods to the value of 654 dollars -German crowns (each 4_s._ 2_d._), and they received for hire 124 -dollars; rations, that is to say, 1·50 lbs. of grain per diem, not -included: they preferred to travel with the escort of two -slave-musketeers rather than to incur the fancied danger of accompanying -a “Muzungu,” though followed by a well-armed party. For the personal -baggage and the outfit necessary for crossing the maritime region, which -reached by waste the figure of 295 dollars, asses were proposed by Ladha -Damha: Zanzibar and the mainland harbours were ransacked, and in a short -time thirty animals, good, bad, and indifferent, were fitted for the -roads with large canvas bags and vile Arab packsaddles, composed of -damaged gunny-bags stuffed with straw. It was necessary to leave behind, -till a full gang of porters could be engaged, the greater part of the -ammunition, the iron boat which had proved so useful on the coasting -voyage to Mombasah, and the reserve supply of cloth, wire, and beads, -valued at 359 dollars. The Hindus promised faithfully to forward these -articles, and received 150 dollars for the hire of twenty-two men, who -were to start in ten days. Nearly eleven months, however, elapsed before -they appeared; caravan after caravan came up from the coast, yet the -apathetic Bhattias pretended want of porters as the cause of their -delay. Evidently my preparations were hurriedly made; strong reasons, -however, urged me on,--delay, even for a few days, might have been -fatal. - -During the brief detention off Wale Point, the latitudes and longitudes -of the estuary of the Kingani, the main artery of these regions, and of -the little settlements Bagamoyo and Kaole,--strongly against the advice -of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, who declared that by such proceedings the -Expedition was going to the bad,--were laid down by my companion: a -novice lunarian, he was assisted by Mohammed bin Khamis, who had read -his “Norie” in England. Various visits to the hippopotamus haunts -produced little beyond the damaging of the corvette’s gig, which, -suddenly uplifted from the water upon the points of two tusks, showed -two corresponding holes in her bottom. Nor did I neglect to land as -often as possible at Kaole, the point of departure upon the mainland, -for the purpose of making sketches with the pen and pencil, of urging on -preparations, and of gathering those items of “bazar-gup,” _i. e._, -tittle-tattle, that represents the labours of the “fourth estate” in -Eastern lands. - -The little settlement of “Kaole”--an abbreviation of Kaole Urembo, -meaning literally, in the ancient dialect of the coast, “to show -beauty”--is the normal village-port in these regions, which, from -Mombasah southwards to Kilwa, still ignore a town of masonry. You land, -when the tide is out, upon half a mile of muddy sand, and if a “swell,” -you are carried by four men upon the Kitanda--cot or cartel--which is -slung along the side of your craft. Arrived at the strip of dry ground -that marks the limit of the tide, you are let down, and amidst the -shouts of the men, the shrieks of the women, and the naïve remarks of -the juvenile population, you ascend by a narrow footpath, worn through -the thick jungle and through the millet-fields which press upon the -tattered palisade, a dwarf steep bank, on whose summit the settlement -lies. Inside the fence are a dozen pent-roofed houses, claret-chests of -wattle and dab, divided into three or more compartments by dwarf -party-walls of the same material: each messuage is jealously separated -from its neighbour by large enclosed “compounds” or court-yards -appropriated to the women and children. The largest timber is that of -the mangrove; the flying thatch-roof, so raised that, though windows are -unknown, the interior enjoys tolerable ventilation, is of jauli, or rude -cocoa-plaits, and under the long and projecting eaves, which rest upon -strong perpendiculars, are broad earth-benches, divided by the entrance, -and garnished with mats: these form the shops and sitting-rooms of the -settlement. Some houses have a partial second story, like a ship’s bunk, -a planking supported by rafters, and used as a store-closet or a -dormitory. Around the larger habitations cluster masses of hovels, and -the characteristic African haycock-huts. With closed doors in still -weather, these dens are unendurable to a European; the people, however, -fearing thieves and wild beasts, never fail to barricade themselves -within at night. The only attempt at masonry in the settlement is the -“Gurayza,” or fort, a square of lime and coralline, with store-rooms for -the Banyan’s goods below, and provided with a crenelled terrace for -watchmen. - -In the “garrison-towns” the soldiers and their families form the -principal part of the population. These men, who call themselves Baloch, -are, with few exceptions, originally from Mekran, and from the lowlands -about Guadel. Many of them have been born and bred in Arabia. In former -days their fathers migrated from their starving homes to Maskat, in the -Arab dows which visited their ports, to buy horses, and to collect -little cargoes of wheat and salt. In Arabia they were fakirs, sailors, -porters, and day-labourers, barbers, date-gleaners, asinegos, beggars, -and thieves. Sultan Bin Hamid, the father of the late Sayyid Said, first -conceived the bright idea of putting matchlocks into their hands, and of -dubbing them Askar, or soldiers, as a slight upon his less docile -compatriots. The son of Sultan followed his sire’s plan, and succeeded -in dividing and ruling by means of the antipathy prevailing between the -more disciplinable mercenary and the unruly Arab subject. The Baloch -are, however, rather hated than feared. They hang, say the Semites, -their benefits behind their backs, whilst they wear their grievances in -full view, woman-like, upon their breasts. Loud in debate, and turbulent -in demeanour, they are called by the Arabs a “light folk,” and are -compared to birds fluttering and chirruping round a snake. Abject slaves -to the Great Gaster, they collect in swarms round a slaughtered goat, -and they will feast their eyes for hours on the sight of a rice-bag. -When in cantonment on the island or the coast, they receive as pay from -2·50 to 5 dollars per mensem; when in the field or on outpost duty, a -“batta” of 10 dollars;--a sensible system, which never allows them to -become, like the Indian Sepoy, independent. They are not averse to -active service, as, when so employed, they have full permission to “pill -and poll.” In camp they are commanded by a jemadar, who, assisted by a -“moollah,”--some wretch who has retained, as sole traces of his better -days, a smattering of reading, writing, and arithmetic,--robs them and -his government with the recklessness of impunity. Thus the jemadar, or -C. O., who also dispenses promotion, is a man having authority. -Similarly our colonels in India, by superior position and allowances, -commanded the respect of their men before centralisation, falling upon -the land like a pestilence, systematically monopolised all power, and -then rained blame upon those who had lost it. These Baloch are a tame -copy of the Turkish Bashi Buzuk, or “mad-cap,” far inferior as -desperadoes to the Kurd and Arnaut. They live the life of the -Anglo-Indian soldier of the past generation, drinking beer when they can -“come by it,” smoking, chatting, and arguing; the younger wrestle, -shoot, and exchange kit; and the silly babbling patriarchs, with white -beards and venerable brows, tell wondrous tales of scenes long gone by, -and describe to unbelieving ears the ice and snow, the luscious fruits -and the sweet waters of the mountains and valleys of far Balochistan. - -The other items of the population are the Wamrima[2]--Western Negroids -of a mixed Arab and African descent, who fringe the shore in a thin -line. These “coast-clans” support themselves in idleness and comparative -luxury, by amicably plundering the down-caravans, and by large -plantations of cereals and vegetables, with which they, or rather their -slaves, supply the island of Zanzibar, and even the shores of Arabia. -The Wamrima are an ill-conditioned race; they spend life in eating, -drinking, and smoking, drinking and dancing, visits, intrigue, and low -debauchery. They might grow cotton and coffee, and dig copal to almost -any extent; but whilst a pound of grain remains in bin, no man will -handle a hoe. The feminine part of the community is greatly superior in -number to the masculine, and this leads to the usual result: on a “Siku -ku” or fête-day, the ladies of the village, with yellow pigment over -their faces and their woolly heads, perform in their cups -impromptu-dances upon the open, enter a stranger’s house as if it were -their own, and call for something to drink, as if they had been educated -at Cremorne, or the Rue Cadet. The Wamrima are ruled by Diwans, or -headmen, locally called “Chomwi;” these officials are subject to -Zanzibar, and their numbers are everywhere in inverse ratio to the -importance of the places. The Chomwi enjoys the privileges of “dash,” -fines and extortions; he has also certain marks of distinction. For -instance, he is authorised to wear turbands and the wooden pattens -called by the Arabs “kabkab;” he may also sit upon cots, chairs, and the -mkeka, a fine dyed mat; whereas a commoner venturing upon such display -would infallibly be mulcted in goats or cattle. At the Ngoma Ku or great -dance, which celebrates every event in this land of revelry, only the -Chomwi may perform the morris with drawn sword before the admiring -multitude. A subject detected in intrigue with the wife of a headman -must, under penalty of being sold, pay five slaves; the fine is reduced -to one head in the case of a plebeian. With this amount of dignity the -Diwan naturally expects to live, and to support his family with the fat -of the land, and without sweat of brow. When times are hard, he -organises a kidnapping expedition against a weaker neighbour, and fills -his purse by selling the proceeds. But his income is derived chiefly -from the down-caravans bringing ivory and slaves from Unyamwezi and the -far interior. Though rigidly forbidden by the Prince of Zanzibar to -force caravans to his particular port, he sends large armed parties of -his kinsmen and friends, his clients and serfs, as far as 150 and 200 -miles inland, where they act less like touters than highwaymen. By every -petty art of mercantile diplomacy,--now by force, then by fraud, by -promises, or by bribes of cloth and sweetmeats,--they induce the caravan -to enter the village, when the work of plunder begins. Out of each -Frasilah (thirty-five lbs. avoirdupois) of ivory, from eight to fourteen -dollars are claimed as duties to the Government of Zanzibar; the -headmen, then, demand six dollars as their fee, under various technical -names, plus one dollar for “ugali” or porridge--the “manche,”--and one -dollar for the use of water--the “pour boire.” The owner of the tusk is -then handed over to the tender mercies of the Banyan, from whom the -Diwan has received a bribe, called his “rice”; and the crafty Hindu buys -for eighteen to twenty dollars an article worth, at Zanzibar, fifty. If -the barbarian be so unwise as to prefer cash, being intellectually unfit -to discriminate between a cent and a dollar, he loses even more than if -he had taken in barter the coarse and trashy articles provided for him -by the trade. An adept at distinguishing good from bad cloth and a -cunning connoisseur in beads of sorts, he has yet no choice: if he -reject what is worthless, he must return home with his ivory and without -an investment. Such is an outline of the present system. It is nowhere -the same in its details; but everywhere the principle is one--the loss -is to the barbarian, and the profits are to the coast-clans, the Wamrima -and their headmen. Hence the dislike to strangers and the infinite -division into little settlements, where people might be expected to -prefer the comfort and safety of large communities. The 10th article of -the commercial treaty, concluded on the 31st May, 1839, between Her -Majesty’s Government and His Highness Sayyid Said of Muscat and -Zanzibar, secured to the possessors of the Mrima a monopoly in the -articles of ivory and gum-copal on that part of the east coast of Africa -from the port of Tangata (Mtangata), situated in about 5½° S. lat. to -the port of Quiloa (Kilwa) lying in about 7° S. of the equator. It is -not improbable that the jealousy of European nations, each fearing the -ambitious designs of its neighbour, brought about this invidious -prohibitionist measure. - - [2] It must be borne in mind, that, in the Kisawahili and its - cognates, the vowel _u_ prefixed to a root, which, however, is never - used without some prefix, denotes, through a primary idea of - causality, a country or region, as Uzaramo, the region of Zaramo. Many - names, however, exceptionally omit this letter, as the Mrima, K’hutu, - Fuga, and Karagwah. The liquid _m_, or, before a vowel and an - aspirated h, _mu_, to prevent hiatus, being probably a synæresis of - _M_tu, a man, denotes the individual, as Mzaramo, a man or woman of - Zaramo. When prefixed to the names of trees, as has been instanced, it - is evidently an abbreviation of Mti, a tree. The plural form of _m_ - and _mu_ is Wá, a contraction of Wátu, men, people; it is used to - signify the population, as Wamrima, the “coast-clans,” Wazaramo, the - people or tribe of Zaramo, and Wasawahíli (with a long accent upon the - penultimate, consonant with the spirit of the African language, and - contrary to that of the Arabic), the population of the Sawahil. - Finally, the syllable _ki_--prefixed to the theoretical root--denotes - anything appertaining to a country, as the terminating _ish_ in the - word English. It especially refers in popular usage to language, as - Kizaramo, the language of Zaramo; Kisawahíli, the language of the - Sawahil, originally called Ki-ngozi, from the district of Ngozi, on - the Ozi River. It has been deemed advisable to retain these terse and - concise distinctions, which, if abandoned, would necessitate a weary - redundance of words. - -Besides the Baloch and the Wamrima, the settlements usually contain a -few of the “Washenzi” or barbarians from the interior, who visit them to -act as day-labourers, and who sometimes, by evincing a little disrespect -for the difference between the “mine” and the “thine,” leave their heads -to decorate tall poles at the entrance. The Wazaramo tribe send, when -there is no blood-feud, numbers to Kaole, where they are known by their -peculiar headdress, a single or a double line of pips or dilberries of -ochre and grease surrounding the head. They regard the stranger with a -wild and childish stare, and whenever I landed, they slunk away from me, -for reasons which will appear in the course of this narrative. The list -of floating population concludes with a few Banyans,--there are about -fifty in Kaole and its vicinity--a race national as the English, who do -their best to import into Eastern Africa the cows and curries, the -customs and the costumes, of Western India. - -The first visit to Kaole opened up a vista of unexpected difficulties. -My escort had been allowed to leave the Artémise, and their comrades in -arms had talked them half-crazy with fear. Zahri, a Baloch, who had -visited Unyamwezi, declared that nothing less than 100 guards, 150 guns, -and several cannon could enable them to fight a way through the perils -of the interior. Tulsi, the Banyan, warned them that for three days they -must pass amongst savages, who sit on trees and discharge poisoned -arrows into the air with such dexterity that they never fail to fall -upon the travellers’ pate; he strongly advised them therefore, under -pain of death, to avoid trees--no easy matter in a land all forest. Then -the principal Chomwi assured them that the chiefs of the Wazaramo tribe -had sent six several letters to the officials of the coast forbidding -the white man to enter their country. Ladha Damha also obscurely hinted -that the Wazaramo might make caches of their provisions in the jungle, -and that the human stomach cannot march without feeding. Divers dangers -of the way were incidentally thrown in: I learned for the first time -that the Kargadan or rhinoceros kills 200 men, that armies of elephants -attack camps by night, and that the craven hyæna does more damage than -the Bengal tiger. In vain I objected that guns with men behind them are -better than cannon backed by curs, that mortals can die but once, that -the Wazaramo are unable to write, that rations might be carried where -not purchaseable, and that powder and ball have been known to conquer -rhinoceroses, elephants, and hyænas. A major force was against me. - -Presently the cause of intimidation crept into sight. The Jemadar and -the eight Baloch detached by His Highness the Sayyid Majid of Zanzibar -could not march without a reinforcement of four others, afterwards -increased by a fifth in the person of an “Ustad,” a tailor-boy. The -garrison of Kaole having no employment, was ready, with the prospect of -the almighty dollar, to march anywhere on this side of Jehannum. The -perils of the path rendered it absolutely necessary that we should be -escorted by a temporary guard of thirty-four men and their Jemadar -Yaruk: and they did not propose to do the good deed gratis. Ramji, the -Banyan clerk of the customs at Zanzibar, had a number of slaves whom he -called his “sons;” they were “eating off their heads” in idleness at -Zanzibar. He favoured me by letting out ten of these youths at the rate -of thirty dollars ahead for a period of six months: for the same sum -every man might have been purchased in the market. When asses were -proposed ass-men were necessary; in the shortest space of time five were -procured, and their pay for the whole journey was fixed at thirty -dollars, about twice the sale-value of the article. I cannot plead -guilty to not having understood the manœuvre,--a commercial speculation -on the part of the rascal Ramji. Yet at times,--need I say it?--it is -good to appear a dupe. It is wise, when your enemies determine you to be -that manner of sable or ermine contrivance into which ladies insert -their fair hands, to favour the hypothesis. I engaged the men, I paid -the men, and mentally I chronicled a vow that Ramji should in the long -run change places with me. - -Presently Mr. Frost with brow severe and official manner, informed me -that the state of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s health forbade a longer stay -near the coast. To this there was no reply: I contented myself with -remarking once more that morphia appeared a curious cure for a confirmed -liver complaint, and I made preparations for landing at once. Mr. Frost -replied that the doses of morphia were very “little ones,”--an excuse -which, according to Capt. Marryat, has been urged under somewhat -dissimilar circumstances by the frail ancilla. I confided to Mr. Frost’s -care two MSS. addressed through the Foreign Office, one to Mr. John -Blackwood, the other to Dr. Norton Shaw, of the Royal Geographical -Society. As the former arrived in safety, whilst the latter,--a detailed -report concerning the commerce and capabilities of Zanzibar,--was lost, -I cannot help suspecting that it came somehow to an untimely end. -Lieutenant-Colonel Hamerton had repeatedly warned me that by making -inquiries into the details of profit I was exciting the jealousy of the -natives and the foreigners of Zanzibar. According to him the mercantile -community was adopting the plan which had secured the foul murder of M. -Maizan: the Christians had time and opportunity to alarm the Banyans, -and the latter were able to work upon the Wasawahíli population. These -short-sighted men dreaded that from throwing open the country, -competition might result: Oriental-like, thinking only of the moment, of -themselves, they could not perceive that the development of resources -would benefit all concerned in their exploitation. There were, however, -honourable exceptions, amongst whom I am bound to mention M. Bérard, -agent to Mess. Rabaud, frères, of Marseilles, who by direction of his -employers offered me every manner of assistance; and the late M. Sam. -Masury, a Salem merchant, to whose gratuitous kindness I was indebted -for several necessaries when separated from civilisation by one half of -Africa. They contrasted sharply with the rest of the community: in the -case of a certain young gentleman, Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton was,--he -informed me,--compelled to threaten a personal chastisement, unless he -ceased to fill native ears with his malignant suspicions. - -The weary labour of verifying accounts and of writing receipts duly -concluded, I took a melancholy leave of my warm-hearted friend -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, upon whose form and features death was written -in legible characters. He gave me his last advice, to march straight -ahead despising “walnut and velvet-slipper men,” who afford opinions, -and conciliating the Arabs as much as possible. Then he spoke of -himself: he looked forward to death with a feeling of delight, the -result of his religious convictions; he expressed a hope that if I -remained at Kaole, he might be buried at sea; and he declared himself, -in spite of my entreaties, determined to remain near the coast until he -heard of our safe transit through the lands of the dreaded Wazaramo. -This courage was indeed sublime! Such examples are not often met with -amongst men! - -After this affecting farewell, I took leave of the Artémise and landed -definitively at Kaole. The Baloch driving the asses were sent off to the -first station on the road westwards, headed by my companion, on the same -evening, lest a longer sojourn in the lands of semi-civilisation should -thoroughly demoralise them. The Wanyamwezi porters, whose open faces and -laughing countenances strongly prepossessed me in their favour, had -already passed beyond their centre of attraction, the coast. I spent -that evening with Ladha Damha, inside the gloomy Gurayza. He lectured me -for the last time upon my development of what the French cartomantiste -calls “la bosse de la témérité.” Might not the Sahib be a great Sahib in -his own land--Cutch or Guzerat? Are there not other great Sahibs there, -A--Sahib and B--Sahib, for instance, who only kill pigs and ignore the -debtor and creditor side of an account in Guzeratee? - -I must mention that, on the morning of the same day, I was present at a -conversation held by the Ladha, the respectable collector of the -customs, with the worthy Ramji, his clerk. I had insisted upon their -inserting in the estimate of necessaries the sum required to purchase a -boat upon the “Sea of Ujiji.” - -“Will he ever reach it?” asked the respectable Ladha, conveying his -question through the medium of Cutchee, a dialect of which, with the -inconsequence of a Hindu, he assumed me to be profoundly ignorant. - -“Of course not,” replied the worthy Ramji; “what is he that he should -pass through Ugogi?” (a province about half way.) - -At the moment I respected their “sharm,” or shame, a leading organ in -the oriental brain, which apparently has dwindled to inconsequential -dimensions amongst the nations of the West. But when Ladha was alone, I -took the opportunity to inform him that I still intended to cross Ugogo, -and to explore the “Sea of Ujiji.” I ended by showing him that I was not -unacquainted with Cutchee, and even able to distinguish between the -debits and the credits of his voluminous sheets. - -During the conversation, the loud wail of death rang wildly through the -grave-like stillness of night. “O son, hope of my life! O brother, -dearest of brothers! O husband! O husband!” these were the cries which -reached our ears. We ran to the door of the Gurayza. The only son of the -venerable Diwan Ukwere, who had been ascending the Kingani river on a -mercantile expedition, with five slaves, had been upset by a vengeful -hippopotamus, and, with two of his attendants, had lost his life. - -“Insaf Karo! be honest!” said the Banyan, with whom I had had many -discussions as to whether it be lawful or unlawful to shoot the -hippopotamus, “and own that this is the first calamity which you have -brought upon the country by your presence.” - -I could only reply with the common-places of polemics. Why should Ladha, -who by purchasing their spoils encouraged the destruction of herds of -elephants, object to the death of a “creek-bull”? and why should the man -who would not kill the “creek-bull” be ready to ruin a brother-man for -making a better bargain about its tusks? Ladha received these futile -objections contemptuously, as you would, right reverend father, were I -to suggest that you, primate and spiritual peer, are not exactly -following in the footsteps of certain paupers whom you fondly deem to -have been your prototypes,--your exemplars. - -When Ladha left, my spirits went with him. In the solitude and the -silence of the dark Gurayza, I felt myself the plaything of misfortune. -At Cairo I had received from the East India House an order to return to -London, to appear as a witness on a trial by court-martial then pending. -The missive was, as usual, so ineptly worded, that I did not think -proper to throw overboard the Royal Geographical Society--to whom my -services had been made over--by obeying it: at the same time I well knew -what the consequences would be. Before leaving Egypt, an interview with -the Count d’Escayrac de Lauture, had afforded me an opportunity of -inspecting an expedition thoroughly well organised by His Highness Said -Pacha, of military predilections, and the contrast between an Egyptian -and an English exploration impressed me unpleasantly. Arrived at Aden, I -had enlisted the services of an old and valued friend, Dr. Steinhaeuser, -civil surgeon at that station: a sound scholar, a good naturalist, a -skilful practitioner, endowed, moreover, with even more inestimable -personal qualities, his presence would have been valuable in a land of -sickness, skirmishes, and sporting adventures, where the people are ever -impressed with the name of “medicine-man,” and in a virgin field -promising subjects of scientific interest. Yet though recommended for -the work by his Excellency the Governor of Bombay, Dr. Steinhaeuser had -been incapacitated by sickness from accompanying me: I had thus with me -a companion and not a friend, with whom I was “strangers yet.” The -Persian war had prevented the fitting-out of a surveying vessel, ordered -by the Court of Directors to act as a base of operations upon the -African coast; no disposable officer of the Indian navy was to be found -at the Presidency; and though I heard in Leadenhall Street of an -“Observatory Sergeant” competent to conduct the necessary astronomical -and meteorological observations, in the desert halls of the great -Bungalow at Colaba only a few lank Hindus met my sight. Nor was this -all. His Highness the late Sayyid Said, that estimable ally of the -English nation, had for many years repeatedly made the most -public-spirited offers to his friend Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton. He was -more than once upon the point of applying for officers selected to map -the caravan routes of Eastern Africa, and he professed himself willing -to assist them with men, money, and the weight of his widely extended -influence. This excellent prince had died forty days before the -Expedition arrived at Zanzibar. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, also, whose -extraordinary personal qualities enabled him to perform anything but -impossibilities amongst the Arabs, was compelled by rapidly failing -health, during my stay at Zanzibar, to lead a recluse life, which -favoured the plans of my opponents. Finally, as Indian experience taught -me, I was entering the unknown land at the fatal season, when the -shrinking of the waters after the wet monsoon would render it a hotbed -of malaria. - -The hurry of departure, also, had caused a necessary neglect of certain -small precautions, which, taken in time, save much after trouble. I -should have shunned to have laid down limits of space and time for the -Expedition, whereas my friend and adviser had specified the “Sea of -Ujiji.” I intended to have drawn out every agreement in an official -form, registered at the Consulate, and specifying all particulars -concerning rations and presents for the escort, their ammunition, and -their right of sporting--that is to say, of scaring the game before it -could be shot--their reward for services, and their punishments for ill -conduct. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s state of health, however, rendered -him totally unfit for the excitement of business; and, without his -assistance, a good result was not to be expected from measures so -unfamiliar, and therefore so unpalatable, to the people whom they most -concerned. - -Excuse, amiable reader, this lengthy and egotistical preface to a volume -of adventure. Do not think that I would invert the moral of the -Frog-fable, by showing that what is death to you, may become fun to me. -As we are to be companions--not to say friends--for an hour or two, I -must put you in possession of certain facts, trivial in themselves, and -all unworthy of record, yet so far valuable, that they may enable us to -understand each other. _Au reste_, to quote the ballad so much admired -by the Authoress of “Our Village”:-- - - “The Pindar of Wakefield is my style, - And what I list I write; - Whilom a clerk of Oxenford, - But now--a banished wight.” - - - - -CHAP. II. - -ZANZIBAR AND THE MRIMA EXPLAINED. - - -The history of the word Zanzibar is curious. Its Persian origin proves -that the Iranians were in early days a more maritime people than Vincent -and other writers imagine. Zanzibar, signifying Nigritia, or Blackland, -is clearly derived from the “Zang,” in Arabic Zanj, a negro, and “bar,” -a region. This Zangbar was changed by the Arabs, who ignore in writing -the hard _g_, into Zanjíbár; they still, however, pronounce Zangbar, and -consider it synonymous with another popular expression, “Mulk el Zunuj,” -or “the Land of the Blacks.” Thus the poet sings,-- - - فسميت ملك الزنوج جميعها - - “And it hath been called Land of the Blacks, all of it.” - -Traces of the word may be found in the earliest geographers. -Ptolemy records a Zingis or Zingisa, which, however, with his customary -incorrectness, he places north of the equator. According to Cosmas -Indicopleustes, the Indian Ocean beyond Barbaria is called Zingium. -“Sinus Barbaricus” seems to have been amongst the Romans the name of the -belt of low land afterwards known as “Zanzibar,” and it was inhabited by -a race of Anthropophagi, possibly the fathers of the present “Wadoe” -tribe. In more modern times the land of the Zunuj has been mentioned by -a host of authors, El Novayri and others. - -[Illustration: A TOWN ON THE MRIMA.] - -The limits of Zanzibar,--a word indiscriminately applied in former times -to the coast, the island, and even to the principal town,--are variously -laid down by geographers. Usually it is made to extend from Cape -Delgado, in S. lat. 10° 41′ to the equator, or more strictly to S. lat. -0° 15′, at the mouth of the Vumbo, or the Webbe Ganana, which appears in -our maps under the deceptive corruptions “Juba” and “Govind,” from the -Somali “Gob,” a junction, and “Gob-wen,” a large junction. Mr. Cooley -(Inner Africa Laid Open, p. 111) corrects the great error of the -Portuguese historian, de Barros, who has made the embouchure of the -Obi--in Somali Webbe, meaning any river,--the demarcation line between -“Ajan” on the north, and “Zanguebar” in the south, and has placed the -mouth of that stream in 9° N. lat., which would extend Zanzibar almost -to Cape Guardafui. Asiatic authors, according to M. Guillain, (Documents -sur l’Histoire, &c. de l’Afrique Orientale. Première partie, p. 213) -vary in opinion concerning the extent of the “land of the Zunuj” and its -limits; some, as El Masudi, make it contain the whole country, including -Sofala, between the embouchure of the Juba River (S. lat. 0° 15′) and -Cape Corrientes (S. lat. 23° 48′): others, like El Idrisi and Ibn Said, -separate from it Sofala. In local and modern usage the word Zanjibar is -generally confined to the chief town upon the island, the latter being -called by Arabs, as well as by the Negroids, Kisiwa, “insula,” in -opposition to the Barr el Moli, a barbarised Semitic term for the -continent. - -As usual throughout these lands, where comprehensive geographical names -are no longer required, there is no modern general word for East Africa -south of the equator. The term “Sawahil,” or “the shores,” in present -parlance is confined to the strip of coast beyond the half-Somali -country, called from its various ports,--Lamu, Brava, and Patta,--Barr -el Banadir, or Harbour-land. The “Sawahil” extend southwards to -Mombasah, below which the coast suddenly falling flat, is known as Mrima -or the Hill, and its people as Wamrima, the “hill-men.” It is limited on -the south by the delta of the Rufiji River, whose races are termed Watu -wa Rufiji, Rufiji clans, or more shortly, Warufiji. - -The country properly called the Mrima has no history beyond its name, -whilst the towns immediately to the north and south of it,--Mombasah and -Kilwa,--have filled many a long and stirring page. The Arab geographers -preceding the Portuguese conquest mention only five settlements on the -coast between Makdishu (Magadoxo) and Kilwa, namely, Lamu, Brava, Marka, -Malindi (Melinda), and Mombasah. In Captain Owen’s charts, between -Pangani and the parallel of Mafiyah (Monfia Island) not a name appears. - -The fringe of Moslem Negroids inhabiting this part of the East African -coast is called by the Arabs Ahl Maraim, and by themselves Wamrima, in -opposition to the heathen of the interior. These are designated in mass -the Washenzi--conquered or servile--properly the name of a Helot race in -the hills of Usumbara, but extended by strangers to all the inner races. -The Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, Mulattos originally African, -but semiticised, like the Moplahs of Malabar, by Arab blood, are in -these days confined to the lands lying northwards of Mombasah, to the -island of Zanzibar, and to the regions about Kilwa. - -The Mrima is peopled by two distantly connected families, the half-caste -Arabs and the Coast-Clans. The former are generally of Bayazi or Khariji -persuasion; the latter follow the school of el Shafei; both, though the -most imperfect of Moslems, are fanatical enough to be dangerous. They -own a nominal allegiance to the suzerain of Zanzibar, yet they are -autonomous and free-spoken as Bedouins, when removed a few miles from -the coast, and they have a rooted aversion to the officials of the local -government, whom they consider their personal enemies. Between them and -the pure Arabs of Oman, who often traverse, but who now never settle -upon the Mrima, there is a repugnance increased by commercial jealousy; -they resent the presence of these strangers as an intrusion, and they -lose no opportunity of thwarting and discouraging them from travelling -into the interior. Like their ancestors, they dislike Europeans -personally, and especially fear the Beni Nar, or Sons of Fire,--the -English--“hot as the Ingrez,” is in these lands a proverb. In their many -Riwayat, Hadisi, and Ngoma--tales, traditions, and songs--they predict -the eventual conquest of the country that has once felt the white man’s -foot. - -The half-caste Arab is degenerate in body and mind; the third generation -becomes as truly negroid as the inner heathen. Even Creoles of pure -blood, born upon the island and the coast of Zanzibar, lose the high -nervous temperament that characterises their ancestors, and become, like -Banyans, pulpy and lymphatic. These mestiços, appearing in the land of -their grandsires, have incurred the risk of being sold as slaves. The -peculiarity of their physiognomy is the fine Semitic development of the -upper face, including the nose and nostrils, whilst the jaw is -prognathous, the lips are tumid and everted, and the chin is weak and -retreating. The cranium is somewhat rounded, and it wants the length of -the Negroid’s skull. Idle and dissolute, though intelligent and cunning, -the coast-Arab has little education. He is sent at the age of seven to -school, where in two or three years he accomplishes the Khitmah, or -perlection of the Koran, and he learns to write a note in an antiquated -character, somewhat more imperfect than the Cufic. This he applies to -the Kisawahili, and as nothing can be less fitted for the Semitic -tongues than the Arabic syllabarium, so admirably adapted to its proper -sphere, his compositions require the deciphering of an expert. A few -prayers and hymns conclude the list of his acquirements. His -mother-tongue knows no books except short treatises on Bao, or geomancy, -and specimens of African proverbial wisdom. He then begins life by -aiding his father in the shop or plantation, and by giving himself up to -intoxication and intrigue. After suffering severely from his -excesses--in this climate no constitution can bear up against -over-indulgence long continued--at the age of seventeen or eighteen, he -takes unto himself a wife. Estranged from the land of his forefathers, -he rarely visits Zanzibar, where the restraints of semi-civilisation, -the decencies of oriental society, and the low estimation in which the -black skin is held, weary and irritate him. His point of honour seems to -consist chiefly in wearing publicly, in token of his Arab descent, a -turban and a long yellow shirt, called El Dishdasheh. - -The Wamrima, or coast-clans, resemble even more than the half-caste -Arabs their congeners the Washenzi. The pure Omani will not acknowledge -them as kinsmen, declaring the breed to be Aajam, or gentiles. They are -less educated than the higher race, and they are more debauched, -apathetic, dilatory, and inert; their favourite life is one of sensual -indolence. Like the Somal, they appear to be unfitted by nature for -intellectual labour; of the former people there is but one learned man, -the Shaykh Jami of Harar, and the Kazi Muhiyy-el-Din of Zanzibar is the -only literato amongst the Wasawahili. Study, or indeed any tension of -the mind, seems to make these weak-brained races semi-idiotic. They -cannot answer Yes or No to the simplest question. If, for example, a man -be asked the place of his tribe, he will point to a distance, though -actually living amongst them; or if questioned concerning some -particular of an event, he will detail everything but what is wanted. In -the earlier days of exploration, I have repeatedly collected the diwans, -and, after a careful investigation and comparison of statements, have -registered the names and distances of the stages ahead. These men, -though dwelling upon the threshold of the regions which they described, -and being in the habit of traversing them every year, yet could hardly -state a single fact correctly; sometimes they doubled, at other times -they halved, the distance; they seldom gave the same names, and they -almost always made a hysteron-proteron of the stations. The reader may -gather from this sample some idea of the difficulties besetting those -who would collect information concerning Africa from the Africans. It -would not have happened had an Arab been consulted. I soon resolved to -doubt for the future all Wasawahili, Wamrima, Washenzi, and slaves, and -I found no reason for regretting the resolution. - -The Wamrima are of darker complexion, and are more African in -appearance, than the coast Arabs. The popular colour is a dull yellowish -bronze. The dress is a fez, or a Surat-cap; a loin-cloth, which among -the wealthy is generally an Arab check or an Indian print, with a -similar sheet thrown over the shoulders. Men seldom appear in public -without a spear, a sword, or a staff; and priding themselves upon the -possession of umbrellas, they may be seen rolling barrels, or otherwise -working upon the sands, under the luxurious shade. The women wear a -tobe, or long cloth, wrapped tightly round the body, and extending from -beneath the arms to the ankles; it is a garb ungraceful as was the -European “sacque” of bygone days. It spoils the figure by depressing -instead of supporting the bosom, and it conceals none of its -deficiencies, especially the narrowness of the hips. The Murungwana, or -free-woman, is distinguished from the slave-girl, when outside the -house, by a cloth thrown over the head. Like the women of the Bedouins -and of the Persian Iliyat, even the matrons of the Mrima go abroad -unmasked. Their favourite necklace is a string of shark’s teeth. They -distend the lobes of the ears to a prodigious size, and decorate them -with a rolled-up strip of variously-dyed cocoa-leaf, a disk of wood, a -plate of chakazi or raw gum-copal, or, those failing, with a betel-nut -or with a few straws. The left wing of the nose is also pierced to admit -a pin of silver, brass, lead, or even a bit of manioc-root. The hair, -like the body, is copiously anointed with cocoa-nut or sesamum oil. Some -shave the head wholly or partially across the brow and behind the ears; -others grow their locks to half or full-length, which rarely exceeds a -few inches. It is elaborately dressed, either in double-rolls rising -like bear’s ears on both sides of the head, or divided into a number of -frizzly curls which expose lines of scalp, and give to the head the -appearance of a melon. They have also a propensity for savage -“accroche-cœurs,” which stand out from the cheek bones, stiffly twisted -like young porkers’ tails. In early youth, when the short, soft, and -crisp hair resembles Astrachan wool, when the muscles of the face are -smoothly rounded, and when the skin has that life and texture, and the -countenance has that vivacity and amiability which belong only to the -young, many of the girls have a pretty piquancy, a little minois -chiffonné, a coquettishness, a natural grace, and a caressing look, -which might become by habit exceedingly prepossessing. In later life, -their charms assume that peculiar solidity which is said to characterise -the beauties of Mullingar, and as a rule they are shockingly ugly. The -Castilian proverb says that the English woman should be seen at the -window, the French woman on the promenade, and the Spanish woman -everywhere;--the African woman should be seen nowhere, or in the dark. -The children mostly appear in the graceful costume of the Belvidere -Apollo; not a few of them have, to the European eye, that amusing -prettiness which we admire in pug-pups. - -The mode of life in the Mrima is simple. Men rise early and repair to -either the shop, the boat, or the plantation,--more commonly they waste -the morning in passing from house to house “ku amkía,”--to salute -neighbours. They ignore “manners”: they enter abruptly with or without -the warning cry of “Hodi! Hodi!” place their spears in the corner, and -without invitation squat and extend themselves upon the floor till -wearied with conversation they take “French leave.” Life, to the -European so real and earnest, is with them a continued scene of -drumming, dancing, and drinking, of gossip, squabble, and intrigue. The -favourite inebrients are tembu or cocoa toddy, and mvinyo, its -distillation, pombe or millet-beer, opium, Bhang, and sometimes foreign -stimulants purchased at Zanzibar. Their food is mostly ugali, the thick -porridge of boiled millet or maize flour, which represents the “staff of -life” in East Africa: they usually feed twice a day, in the morning and -at night-fall. They employ the cocoa-nut extensively: like the Arabs of -Zanzibar, they boil their rice in the thick juice of the rasped albumen -kneaded with water, and they make cakes of the pulp mixed with the flour -of various grains. This immoderate use of the fruit which, according to -the people, is highly refrigerant, causes, it is said, rheumatic and -other diseases. A respectable man seen eating a bit of raw or undressed -cocoa-nut would be derided by his fellows. They chew tobacco with lime, -like the Arabs, who, under the influence of Wahhabi tenets, look upon -the pipe as impure, and they rarely smoke it like the Washenzi. - -The Wamrima as well as the Wasawahili are distinguished by two national -peculiarities of character. The first is a cautiousness bordering upon -cowardice, derived from their wild African blood; the second is an -unusual development of cunning and deceitfulness, which partially -results from the grafting of the semi-civilised Semite upon the Hamite. -The Arabs, who are fond of fanciful etymology, facetiously derive the -race-name “Msawahili” from “Sawwá hílah,”[3] _he played a trick_, and -the people boast of it, saying, “are we not Wasawahili?” that is “artful -dodgers.” Supersubtle and systematic liars, they deceive when duller men -would tell the truth, the lie direct is no insult, and the offensive -word “muongo!” (liar) enters largely into every dialogue. They lie like -Africans, objectlessly, needlessly, when sure of speedy detection, when -fact would be more profitable than falsehood; they have not discovered -with the civilised knave, that “honesty is the best policy;” they lie -till their fiction becomes subjectively fact. With them the lie is no -mental exertion, no exercise of ingenuity, no concealment, nor mere -perversion of the truth: it is apparently a local instinctive -peculiarity in the complicated madness of poor human nature. The most -solemn and religious oaths are with them empty words; they breathe an -atmosphere of falsehood, manœuvre, and contrivance, wasting about the -mere nothings of life--upon a pound of grain or a yard of -cloth--ingenuity of iniquity enough to win and keep a crown. And they -are treacherous as false; with them the salt has no signification, and -gratitude is unknown even by name. - - [3] Dr. Krapf, in the Preface to his “Outlines of the Kisuahelí - Language,” deduces the national name from Síwá, ’a hílah, which would - mean exactly the reverse of astute--“without guile.” He has made other - curious linguistic errors: he translates, for instance, the - “Quilimancy” River--the ancient name for the Ozi or Dana--“water from - the mountain,” after a Germanic or Indo-European fashion, whereas, in - the Zangian languages, the compound word would, if admissible, signify - “a mountain of water.” It is curious that the learned and accurate Mr. - Cooley, who has charged Dr. Krapf with “puerile etymologies,” should - have fallen into precisely the same error. In the “Geography of - N’yassi,” p. 19, “Mazingia” is rendered the “road or land along the - water,” but Májí Njíá, if the elision of the possessive affix ya be - allowed in prose as in poetry--Májí Njíá for Májí ya Njíá--would mean - only the “water of the road.” As a specimen of Dr. Krapf’s discoveries - in philology the following may suffice. In his vocabulary of the - Engutuk Eloikob or Kikuafi dialect, he derives Olbitir, a _pig_, from - the Arabic El Batrah, a _young ass_, or from El Basir, a _sharp-seeing - dog_! - -Though partially Arabised, the Wamrima, as well as the Wasawahili, -retain many habits and customs derived from the most degraded of the -Washenzi savagery. Like the Wazegura heathen of Eastern Africa, and the -Bangala of the Kasanji (Cassange) Valley, in the West, the uncle sells -his nephews and nieces by an indefeasible vested right, with which even -the parents cannot interfere. The voice of society even justifies this -abomination. “What!” exclaim the people, “is a man to want when his -brothers and sisters have children?” He is thus encouraged in doing, on -the slightest pretext, that of which the heathen rarely approve, except -to save themselves from starvation. At the same time the Wamrima, -holding the unchastity of woman as a tenet of belief, consider the -sister’s son--the “surer side”--the heir, in preference to the son. They -have many superstitions, and before all undertakings they consult a -pagan Mganga or medicine-man. If the K’hunguru or crow caws from the -house-top, a guest is coming; if a certain black bird cries “chee! -chee!” in front of a caravan, the porters will turn back, saying that -there is blood on the road, and they will remain four or five days till -the “chika! chika!” of the partridge beats the “General.” An even number -of wayfarers met in early morning is a good omen, but an odd number, or -the bark of the Mbweha--the fox--before the march, portends misfortune. -Strong minds of course take advantage of these and a thousand other -follies of belief, and when there is not, as in civilised countries, a -counteracting influence of scepticism, the mental organisation of the -people becomes a mass of superstitious absurdities. - -The chief industry of the Mrima, namely the plundering of caravans, has -already been alluded to; it will here be described with somewhat more of -detail. The industrious and commercial nations near Kilwa and the -southern regions delay but a few days on the coast; the Wanyamwezi, on -the line now to be described, will linger there from three to six -months, enjoying the dear delights of comparative civilisation. Many old -campaigners have so far overcome their barbarous horror of water -travelling, which has been increased by tales of shipwreck and drowning, -as to take boat and carry their ivory to the more profitable market in -this land of Zanzibar, where the Wanyamwezi occupy their own quarter. -Arrived within two marches of the coast-town, the head of the caravan -calls a halt till the presents promised by an escort of touters have -arrived and have been approved of. He then delays as long as possible, -to live gratis upon those with whom he proposes to deal. After a time, -the caravan enters in stately procession, a preliminary to the usual -routine of commercial operations. Having settled the exorbitant claims -of the village headmen and the charges of the Zanzibar Government, which -are usually levied in duplicate by the local authorities, the barbarian -has recourse to the Indian Banyan. Bargains are usually concluded at -night: to a civilised man the work would be an impossible trial of -patience. A lot of two hundred tusks is rarely sold under four months. -Each article is laid upon the ground, and the purchaser begins by -placing handsome cloths, technically called “pillows,” under the point -and bamboo of the tusk, and by covering its whole length with a third; -these form the first perquisites of the seller. After a few days, during -which rice and ghee, sugar and sweetmeats, must be freely supplied, -commences the chaffering for the price. The Banyan becomes excited at -the ridiculous demand of his client, screams like a woman, pushes him -out of doors, and receives a return of similar treatment with interest. -He takes advantage of his knowledge that the African in making a bargain -is never satisfied with the first offer, however liberal; he begins with -a quarter of the worth, then he raises it to one-half, and when the -barbarian still hesitates he throws in some flashy article which turns -the scale. Any attempt at a tariff would be contemptuously rejected by -both parties. The African delights in bargaining, and the Indian having -brighter wits relies upon them for a profit, which the establishment of -fair prices would curtail. It were in vain to attempt any alteration in -this style of doing “business;” however despicable it may appear in the -London market, it is a time-honoured institution in East Africa. - -[Illustration: The Wazaramo Tribe.] - - - - -CHAP. III. - -TRANSIT OF THE VALLEY OF THE KINGANI AND THE MGETA RIVERS. - - -It was a gallant sight to see the Baloch, as with trailed matchlocks, -and in bravery of shield, sword, and dagger, they hurried in Indian file -out of the Kaole cantonments, following their blood-red flag and their -high-featured, snowy-bearded chief, the “Shaib Mohammed,”--old Mohammed. -The band, “like worms,” as they expressed its numbers, which amounted to -nearly a hundred, about one-third of the venerable Jemadar’s command, -was marching forth to bid us farewell, in token of respect, at Mgude or -Kuingani, “the cocoa-plantation near the sea.” It is a little -settlement, distant an hour and a half’s walk from Kaole: hither my -companion had preceded me, and hence we were to make our second -departure. Accompanied by Said bin Salim, Valentine my Goanese servant, -three Baloch, and two slaves, I followed in the wake of the main body, -bringing up the rear of the baggage on three Unyamwezi asses bought that -morning at the custom-house. The animals had been laden with difficulty: -their kicking and plunging, rearing and pawing, had prevented the nice -adjustment of their packs, and the wretched pads, which want of time had -compelled me to take, instead of panels or pack-saddles, loosely girthed -with rotten coir rope, could not support a heap of luggage weighing at -least 200 lbs. per load. On the road they rushed against one another; -they bolted, they shied, and they threw their impediments with such -persistence, that my servant could not help exclaiming, “Unká nám -gadha”--“Their name _is_ jackass.” At last, as the sun neared the salt -sea, one of these half-wild brutes suddenly sank, girth-deep, in a patch -of boggy mire, and the three Baloch, my companions, at once ran away, -leaving us to extricate it as best we could. This little event had a -peculiar significancy to one about to command a party composed -principally of asses and Baloch. - -The excitement of finding myself on new ground, and the peculiarities of -the scenery, somewhat diverted melancholy forebodings. Issuing from the -little palisade of Kaole, the path winds in a south-westerly direction -over a sandy soil, thick with thorns and bush, which in places project -across the way. Thence ascending a wave of ground where cocoas and the -wild arrow-root flourish, it looks down upon park land like that -described by travellers in Kaffraria, a fair expanse of sand veiled with -humus, here and there growing rice, with mangoes and other tall trees, -regularly disposed as if by the hand of man. Finally, after crossing a -muddy grass-grown swamp, and a sandy bottom full of water when rain has -been heavy, the path, passing through luxuriant cultivation, enters -Kuingani. Such is the “nakl,” or preparatory-stage of Arab travellers, -an invariable first departure, where porters who find their load too -heavy, or travellers who suspect that they are too light, can return to -Kaole and re-form. - -The little settlement of Kuingani is composed of a few bee-hive -huts, and a Bandani or wall-less thatched roof--the village -palaver-house--clustering orderless round a cleared central space. -Outside, cocoas, old and dwarfed, mangoes almost wild, the papaw, the -cotton shrub, the perfumed Rayhan or Basil, and a sage-like herb, the -sugarcane, and the Hibiscus called by the Goanese “Rosel,” vary the -fields of rice, holcus, and “Turiyan,” or the Cajanus Indicus. The -vegetation is, in fact, that of the Malabar coast; the habitations are -peculiarly African. - -The 28th of June was a halt at Kuingani, where I was visited by Ramji -and two brother Bhattias, Govindji and Kesulji. The former was equipped, -as least becomes the Banyan man, with sword, dudgeon, and assegai. But -Ramji was a heaven-made soldier; he had taken an active part in the -military operations directed by His Highness the late Sayyid Said -against the people of the mainland, and about thirteen years ago he -defended Kaole against a host of Wazaramo, numbering, it is said, 3,000 -men, when, lacking balls, he had loaded his honeycombed cannon and his -rusty matchlocks with pointed sticks. The Europeans of Zanzibar called -him “Rush,”--the murderer. His fellow-countrymen declared him to be a -“sharp practiser,” who had made a reputation by spending other people’s -money, and I personally had proofs which did not allow me to doubt his -“savoir faire.” - -The nights at Kuingani were not pleasant. The air was stifling, the -mosquitoes buzzed without intermission, and I had neglected to lay in -“essence of pennyroyal” against certain other plagues. On the second -evening, seeing by the hang-dog look of my Jemadar that he was -travailing in mind, I sent for a Mganga or medicine-man, and having -previously promised him a Surat skull-cap for a good haul of prophecy, I -collected the Baloch to listen. The Mganga, a dark old man, of superior -rank, as the cloth round his head and his many bead necklaces showed, -presently reappeared with a mat-bag containing the implements of his -craft. After taking his seat opposite to me he demanded his fee--here, -as elsewhere, to use the words with which Kleon excited the bile of -Tiresias, - - “Το μαντικον γαρ παν φιλαργυρον γενος;” - ---without which prediction would have been impossible. When -gratified he produced a little gourd snuff-box and indulged himself with -a solemn and dignified pinch. He then drew forth a larger gourd which -contained the great medicine, upon which no eye profane might gaze: the -vessel, repeatedly shaken, gave out a vulgar sound as if filled with -pebbles and bits of metal. Presently, placing the implement upon the -ground, Thaumaturges extracted from the mat-bag two thick goat’s horns -connected by a snake-skin, which was decorated with bunches of -curiously-shaped iron bells; he held one in the left hand, and with the -right he caused the point of the other to perform sundry gyrations, now -directing it towards me, then towards himself, then at the awe-struck -bystanders, waving his head, muttering, whispering, swaying his body to -and fro, and at times violently rattling the bells. When fully primed -with the spirit of prophecy, and connected by ekstasis with the ghosts -of the dead, he spake out pretty much in the style of his brotherhood -all the world over. The journey was to be prosperous. There would -be much talking, but little killing.--Said bin Salim, in chuckling -state, confessed that he had heard the same from a Mganga consulted -at Zanzibar.--Before navigating the sea of Ujiji a sheep or -a parti-coloured hen should be killed and thrown into the -lake.--Successful voyage.--Plenty of ivory and slaves.--Happy return to -wife and family. - -This good example of giving valuable advice was not lost upon Mr. Rush -Ramji. He insisted upon the necessary precautions of making a strong -kraal and of posting sentinels every night; of wearing a kerchief round -the head after dark, and of avoiding the dangerous air of dawn; of not -eating strange food, and of digging fresh wells, as the Wazaramo bewitch -water for travellers; of tethering the asses, of mending their ropes, -and of giving them three lbs. of grain per diem. Like the medical -directions given to the French troops proceeding to China, the counsel -was excellent, but impracticable. - -The evening concluded with a nautch. Yusuf, a Baloch, produced a -saringi--the Asiatic viol--and collected all the scamps of the camp with -a loud scraping. Hulluk, the buffoon, acted dancing-girl to perfection. -After the normal pantomime, somewhat broadly expressed, he did a little -work in his own character; standing on his head with a peculiar -tremulousness from the hips upwards, dislocating his person in a sitting -position, imitating the cry of a dog, cat, ape, camel, and slave-girl, -and finally reproducing me with peculiar impudence before my face. I -gave him a dollar, when, true to his strain, he at once begged another. - -All accounts and receipts being finally duly settled with the Hindus, -the last batch of three donkeys having arrived, and the baggage having -been laden with great difficulty, I shook hands with old Mohammed and -the other dignitaries, and mounting my ass, gave orders for immediate -departure from Kuingani. This was not effected without difficulty: every -one and everything, guide and escort, asses and slaves, seemed to join -in raising up fresh obstacles. Four P.M. sped before we turned out of -the little settlement. Among other unpleasant occurrences, Rahmat, a -Baloch knave, who had formed one of my escort to Fuga, levelled his long -barrel, with loud “Mimí ná pigá” (I am shooting him), when his company -was objected to. His Jemadar, Yaruk, seized the old shooting-iron, which -was probably unloaded, and Rahmat, with sotto-voce snarls and growls, -slunk back to his kennel. A turbaned Negroid, who appeared on the path, -was asked to point out the way, and, on his refusal, my bull-headed -slave Mabruki struck him on the face, when, to the consternation of all -parties, he declared himself a Diwan. The blow, according to the -Jemadar, would infallibly lead to bloodshed. - -After a second short march of one hour and a half, we pitched tents and -obtained lodgings in Bomani, “the Stockade,” a frontier village, but -within the jurisdiction of Bagamoyo. On this road, which ascended the -old sea-beach, patches of open forest and of high rank grass divided -cultivated clearings, where huts and hamlets appeared, and where modest -young maidens beckoned us as we passed. The vegetation is here partly -African, partly Indian. The Mbuyu,--the baobab, Adansonia digitata, -monkey-bread, or calabash, the Mowana of the southern and the Kuka of -the northern regions,--is of more markedly bulbous form than on the -coast, where the trunk is columnar; its heavy extremities, depressed by -the wind, give it the shape of a lumpy umbrella shading the other wild -growths. There appear to be two varieties of this tree, similar in bole -but differing in foliage and in general appearance. The normal Mbuyu has -a long leaf, and the drooping outline of the mass is convex; the rarer, -observed only upon the Usagara Mountains, has a small leaf, in colour -like the wild indigo, and the arms striking upwards assume the -appearance of a bowl. The lower bottoms, where the soil is rich, grow -the Mgude, also called Mparamusi (Taxus elongatus, the Geel hout or -Yellow-wood of the Cape?) a perfect specimen of arboreal beauty. A tall -tapering shaft, without knot or break, straight and clean as a main-mast -forty or forty-five feet in height, and painted with a tender -greenish-yellow, is crowned with parachute-shaped masses of vivid -emerald foliage, whilst sometimes two and even three pillars spring from -the same root. The Mvumo,--a distorted toddy tree, or Hyphæna allied to -the Daum palm of Egypt and Arabia,--has a trunk rough with the drooping -remnants of withered fronds, above which it divides itself into branches -resembling a system of Y’s. Its oval fruit is of a yellowish red, and -when full-sized it is as large as a child’s head; it is eaten even -unripe by the people, and is said to be the favourite food of the -elephant. Pulpless, hard, and stringy, it has, when thoroughly mature, a -slight taste of gingerbread, hence it is also called the -Gingerbread-tree. The Ukhindu or brab, of whose fronds mats and the -grass kilts worn by many of the tribes are made, flourishes throughout -the country, proving that the date-tree might be naturalised. The Nyara -or Chamærops humilis, the dwarf fan-palm or palmetto of Southern Europe, -abounds in this maritime region. The other growths are the Mtogwe and -the Mbungo-bungo, varieties of the Nux vomica; the finest are those -growing in the vicinity of water. The fruit contains within its hard -rind, which, when ripe, is orange-coloured, large pips, covered with a -yellow pulp of a grateful agro-dolce flavour, with a suspicion of the -mango. The people eat them with impunity; the nuts, which contain the -poisonous principle, being too hard to be digested. The Mtunguja (the -Punneeria coagulans of Dr. Stocks), a solanaceous plant called by the -Indians Jangli bengan, or the wild egg-plant, by the South Africans -Toluane, and by the Baloch Panír, or cheese, from the effect of the -juice in curdling milk, is here, as in Somaliland, a spontaneous growth -throughout the country. The same may be said of the castor plant, which, -in these regions, is of two kinds. The Mbono (Jatropha curcas?) is the -Gumpal of Western India, a coarse variety, with a large seed; its fetid -oil, when burnt, fouls the lamp; yet, in Africa, it is used by all -classes as an unguent. The Mbarika, or Palma Christi, the Irindi of -India, is employed in medicine. The natives extract the oil by toasting -and pounding the bean, adding a little hot water and skimming off what -appears upon the surface. The Arabs, more sensibly, prefer it -“cold-drawn.” These plants, allowed to grow unpruned, often attain the -height of eighteen to twenty feet. - -The 30th June was another forced halt, when I tasted all the bitterness -that can fall to the lot of those who explore regions unvisited by their -own colour. The air of Bomani is stagnant, the sun fiery, and clouds of -mosquitoes make the nights miserable. Despite these disadvantages, it is -a favourite halting-place for up-caravans, who defer to the last the -evil days of long travel and short rations. Though impressed with the -belief, that the true principle of exploration in these lands is to push -on as rapidly and to return as leisurely as possible, I could not -persuade the Baloch to move. In Asia, two departures usually suffice; in -Africa there must be three,--the little start, the great start, and the -start κατ’ εξοχην. Some clamoured for tobacco--I gave up my cavendish; -others for guitar-strings--they were silenced with beads; and all, born -donkey-drivers, complained loudly of the hardship and the indignity of -having to load and lead an ass. The guide, an influential Mzaramo, -promised by the Banyans Ladha and Ramji, declined, after receiving -twenty dollars, to accompany the Expedition, and from his conduct the -Baloch drew the worst of presages. Much ill-will was shown by them -towards the European members of the Expedition. “Kafir end, márá bandirá -na khenen” (they are infidels and must not carry our flag)--it was -inscribed with the usual Moslem formula--was spoken audibly enough in -their debased Mekrani to reach my ears: a faithful promise to make a -target of the first man who might care to repeat the words, stopped that -manner of nuisance. Again the most childish reports flew about the camp, -making these jet-bearded and fierce-eyed hen-hearts faint with fears. -Boxes had been prepared by the barbarians for myself, and gates had been -built across the paths to arrest my party. P’hazi Mazungera, M. Maizan’s -murderer, had collected a host that numbered thousands, and the Wazaramo -were preparing a levée _en masse_. To no purpose I quoted the Arab’s -proverb--“the son of fifty dieth not at thirty”; all _would_ be heroic -victims marching to gory graves. Such reports did real damage: the -principal danger was the tremulous alacrity with which the escort -prepared upon each trivial occasion for battle and murder, and sudden -death. At one place a squabble amongst the villagers kept the Baloch -squatting on their hams with lighted matches from dusk till dawn. At -another, a stray Fisi or Cynhyæna entering the camp by night, caused a -confusion which only the deadliest onslaught could have justified. A -slave hired on the road, hearing these horrors, fled in dismay; this, -the first of desertions, was by no means the last. The reader may -realise the prevalence and the extent of this African traveller’s bane -by the fact that during my journey to Ujiji there was not a soul in the -caravan, from Said bin Salim the Arab, to the veriest pauper, that did -not desert or attempt to desert. - -Here, at the first mention of slaves, I must explain to the reader why -we were accompanied by them, and how the guide and escort contrived to -purchase them. All the serving-men in Zanzibar Island and on the coast -of E. Africa are serviles; the Kisawahili does not contain even a word -to express a hired domestic. For the evil of slave-service there was no -remedy: I therefore paid them their wages and treated them as if they -were freemen. I had no power to prevent Said bin Salim, the Baloch -escort, and the “sons of Ramji,” purchasing whomever they pleased; all -objections on my part were overruled by, “we are allowed by our law to -do so,” and by declaring that they had the permission of the consul. I -was fain to content myself with seeing that their slaves were well fed -and not injured, and indeed I had little trouble in so doing, as no man -was foolish enough to spoil his own property. I never neglected to -inform the wild people that Englishmen were pledged to the suppression -of slavery, and I invariably refused all slaves offered as return -presents. - -The departure from Bomani was effected on the 1st of July with some -trouble; it was like driving a herd of wild cattle. At length, by -ejecting skulkers from their huts, by dint of promises and threats, of -gentleness and violence, of soft words and hard words, occasionally -backed by a smart application of the “Bakur”--the local “cat”--by -sitting in the sun, in fact by incessant worry and fidget from 6 A. M. -to 3 P. M., the sluggish and unwieldy body acquired some momentum. I had -issued a few marching orders for the better protection of the baggage: -two Baloch were told off for each donkey, one to lead, the other to -drive; in case of attack, those near the head of the file, hearing the -signal, three shots, were to leave their animals and to hurry to the -front, where my companion marched, whilst the remainder rallied round my -flag in the rear: thus there would have been an attacking party and a -reserve, between which the asses would have been safe. The only result -of these fine manœuvres was, that after a two-mile tramp through an -umbrageous forest in which caravans often lose the way, and then down an -easy descent across fertile fields, into a broken valley, whose further -side was thick with luxuriant grass, tall shrubs, and majestic trees, a -confused straggling line,--a mere mob of soldiers, slaves, and -asses,--arrived at the little village of Mkwaju la Mvuani,--the -“Tamarind in the rains.” - -The settlement is composed as usual of a few hovels and a palaver-house, -with a fine lime-tree, the place of lounging and gossip, grain-husking, -and mat-weaving, in the open centre. Provisions and rough muddy water -being here plentiful, travellers often make a final halt to polish their -weapons, and to prepare their minds for the Wazaramo. It is the last -station under the jurisdiction of Bagamoyo; from Changahera, the crafty -old Diwan, I obtained the services of his nephew Muinyi Wazírá, who -received seventeen dollars as an inducement to travel in the interior, -and was at once constituted linguist and general assistant to Said bin -Salim. The day passed as usual, a snake was killed, and a gun-shot heard -in the distance supplied conversation for some hours. The “sons of -Ramji” carefully lost half a dozen of the axes, bill-hooks, and dibbles, -with which they had been supplied, fearing lest they might be called -upon to build the Síwá or Bomá, the loose thorn-fence with which the -halting-place ought to be surrounded before the night, and 7 P. M. had -passed before I could persuade the Baloch to catch, tether, and count -the asses. One of the escort, Ismail, was attacked with dysentery and -required to be mounted, although we were obliged by the want of carriage -to wend our way on foot. During the last night, Said bin Salim had taken -charge of three Wanguru porters, who, freshly trapped by Said el -Hazrami, had been chained _pro tempore_ to prevent desertion. The Arab -boasted that he was a bad sleeper, but bad sleepers are worse watchers, -because when they do sleep they sleep in earnest. The men were placed -for the night in Said’s tent, surrounded by his five slaves, yet they -stole his gun, and carrying off an axe and sundry bill-hooks, -disappeared in the jungle. The watchful Said, after receiving many -congratulations on his good fortune--fugitive slaves sometimes draw -their knives across the master’s throat or insert the points into his -eyes--sent off his own attendants to recover the fugitives. In the -jungle, however, search was of scant avail: the Wanguru feared that if -caught by the Baloch, they would lose their ears; three days would -enable them to reach their own country; and their only risk was that if -trapped by the Washenzi before their irons--a valuable capture to the -captors--could be removed, they might again be sold to some travelling -trader. As the day wore on, Said’s face assumed a deplorable expression: -his slaves had not appeared, and though several of them were muwallid or -born in his father’s house, and one was after a fashion his -brother-in-law, he sorely dreaded that they also had deserted. He was -proportionably delighted when in the dead of the night, entering Mkwaju -la Mvuani, they reported ill-success; and though I could little afford -the loss, I was glad to get rid of this chained and surly gang. - -On the next day we began loading for the third and final departure, -before dawn, and at 7.30 A. M. were on the dew-dripping way. Beyond the -settlement a patch of jungle led to cultivated grounds belonging to the -villagers, whose scattered and unfenced abodes were partially concealed -by dense clumps of trees. The road then sweeping parallel with the river -plain, which runs from N.W. to S.E., crossed several swamps, black muddy -bottoms covered with tall thick rushes and pea-green paddy, and the -heavily laden asses sunk knee-deep into the soft soil. Red copalliferous -sand clothed the higher levels. On the wayside appeared for the first -time the Khambi or substantial kraals, which evidence unsafe travelling -and the unwillingness of caravans to bivouac in the villages. In this -region they assumed the form of round huts and long sheds or boothies of -straw or grass supported by a framework of rough sticks firmly planted -in the ground and lashed together with bark-strips. The whole was -surrounded with a deep circle of thorns which--the entrance or entrances -being carefully closed at nightfall, not to reopen until dawn--formed a -complete defence against bare feet and naked legs. About half-way a -junction of the Mbuamaji road was reached, and the path became somewhat -broader and less rough. Passing on the right, a hilly district, called -Dunda or “the Hill,” the road fell from the ancient sea-beach into the -alluvial valley of the Kinganí River; presently rising again, it entered -the settlement of Nzasa, a name interpreted “level ground.” - -Nzasa is the first district of independent Uzaramo. My men proceeded to -occupy the Bandani, in the centre of the hamlet, when Said bin Salim, -discovering with the sharp eye of fear a large drum, planted in -readiness for the war-signal or the dance-signal, hurried about till he -had turned all hands out of the village into a clump of trees hard by, a -propitious place for surprise and ambuscade. Here I was visited by three -P’hazi or headmen, Kizaya, Tumba Ihere or the “poison gourd,” and Kombe -la Simba or the “lion’s hide.” They came to ascertain whether I was -bound on peaceful errand or--as the number of our guns suggested--I was -marching to revenge the murder of my “brother” Muzungu. Assured of our -unwarlike intentions, they told me that I must halt on the morrow and -send forward a message to the next chief. As this plan invariably loses -three days,--the first being a _dies non_, the second being expended in -dispensing exoteric information to all the lieges squatting in solemn -conclave, whilst on the third the real message is privily whispered into -the chieftain’s ear,--I replied through Said that I could not be bound -by their rules, but was ready to pay for their infraction. During the -debate upon this fascinating proposal for breaking the law, Yusuf, one -of the most turbulent of the Baloch, drew his sword upon an old woman -because she refused to give up a basket of grain. She rushed, with the -face of a black Medusa, into the assembly, and provoked not very -peaceable remarks concerning the peaceful nature of our intentions. When -the excitement was allayed, the principal P’hazi began to ask what had -brought the white man into their country, and in a breath to predict the -loss of their gains and commerce, their land and liberty. “I am old,” -pathetically quoth the P’hazi, “and my beard is grey, yet I have never -beheld such a calamity as this!” “These men,” replied Said, “neither buy -nor sell; they do not inquire into price, nor do they covet profit. -Moreover,” he pursued, “what have ye to lose? The Arabs take your best, -the Wasawahili your second best, and your trifling tribute is reduced to -a yoke of bullocks, a few clothes, or half a dozen hoes.” An extravagant -present--at that time ignorance of the country compelled me to intrust -such matters to the honesty of Said bin Salim--opened the headmen’s -hearts: they privily termed me Murungwana Sana, a real free-man, the -African equivalent for the English “gentleman,” and they detached Kizaya -to accompany me as far as the western half of the Kingani Valley. At 4 -P. M. a loud drumming collected the women, who began to perform a dance -of ceremony with peculiar vigour. A line of small, plump, -chestnut-coloured beings, with wild beady eyes, and a thatch of -clay-plastered hair, dressed in their loin-cloths, with a profusion of -white disks, bead necklaces, a little square bib of beads called a -t’hando, partially concealing the upper bosom, with short coils of thick -brass wire wound so tightly round the wrists, the arms above the elbows, -and the fat ankles, that they seemed to have grown into the flesh, -and,--hideous perversion of taste!--with ample bosoms tightly corded -down, advanced and retired in a convulsion of wriggle and contortion, -whose fit expression was a long discordant howl, which seemed to - - “Embowel with outrageous noise the air.” - -I threw them a few strings of green beads, which for a moment -interrupted the dance. One of these falling to the ground, I was -stooping to pick it up when Said whispered hurriedly in my ear, “Bend -not; they will say ‘he will not bend even to take up beads!’” - -In the evening I walked down to the bed of the Kingani river, which -bisects a plain all green with cultivation,--rice and holcus, sweet -potato and tobacco,--and pleasantly studded with huts and hamlets. The -width of the stream, which here runs over a broad bed of sand, is about -fifty yards; it is nowhere fordable, as the ferry-boat belonging to each -village proves, and thus far it is navigable, though rendered dangerous -by the crocodiles and the hippopotami that house in its waters. The -colour is tawny verging upon red, and the taste is soft and sweet, as if -fed by rain. The Kingani, like all streams in this part of the -continent, is full of fish, especially a dark-green and scaleless -variety (a Silurus?) called Kambari, and other local names. This great -“miller’s thumb” has fleshy cirri, appears to be omnivorous, and tastes -like animal mud. The night was rendered uncomfortable to the Baloch by -the sound of distant drums, which suggested fighting as well as -feasting, and by the uproar of the wild men, who, when reconnoitred by -the scouts, were found to be shouting away the hippopotami. - -In the hurry and the confusion of loading on the next morning one ass -was left behind, and the packs were so badly placed that the fatigue of -marching was almost doubled by their repeated falls. Whilst descending -the well-wooded river terrace, my portion of the escort descried an -imaginary white flag crossing the grassy valley below. This is the sign -of a Diwan’s expedition or commando: it is unwisely allowed by the -Arabs, whose proper colours are a plain blood-red. After marching a few -miles over undulating ground, open and parklike, and crossing rough and -miry beds, the path disclosed a view verging upon the pretty. By the way -side was planted the peculiarly African Mzimu or Fetiss hut, a penthouse -about a foot high, containing, as votive offerings, ears of holcus or -pombe-beer in a broken gourd. There, too, the graves of the heathen met -the eye. In all other parts of East Africa a mouldering skull, a -scattered skeleton, or a few calcined bones, the remains of wizards and -witches dragged to the stake, are the only visible signs of man’s -mortality. The Wazaramo tombs, especially in the cases of chiefs, -imitate those of the Wamrima. They are parallelograms, seven feet by -four, formed by a regular dwarf paling that encloses a space cleared of -grass, and planted with two uprights to denote the position of head and -feet. In one of the long walls there is an apology for a door. The -corpse of the heathen is not made to front any especial direction; -moreover the centre of the oblong has the hideous addition of a log -carved by the unartistic African into a face and a bust singularly -resembling those of a legless baboon, whilst a white rag tied turbanwise -round the head serves for the inscription “this is a man.” The Baloch -took notice of such idolatrous tendency by spitting and by pronouncing -certain national anathemas, which literally translated might sound -unpleasant in Europeans’ ears. The abomination of iconism is avoided in -the graves of Moslem travellers: they are usually cleared ovals, with -outlines of rough stone and a strew of smooth pebbles, according to the -custom of the Wasawahili. Several stumps of wood planted in the earth -show that the corpse faces Mecca, and, as amongst the Jinga of Western -Africa, the fragments of a china bowl or cup lying upon the ground are -sacred to the memory of the departed. In Zanzibar Island, also, saucers, -plates, and similar articles are mortared into the tombstones. - -The number of these graves made the blackness of my companions pale. -They were hurrying forward with sundry “la haul!” and with boding shakes -of the head, when suddenly an uproar in the van made them all prepare -for action. They did it characteristically by beginning with begging for -ranjak--priming powder. Said bin Salim, much excited, sent forward his -messmate Muinyi Wazira to ascertain the cause of the excitement. One -Mviraru, the petty lord of a neighbouring village, had barred the road -with about a dozen men, demanding “dash,” and insisting that Kizaya had -no right to lead on the party without halting to give him the news. My -companion, who was attended only by “Bombay,” his gun-carrier, and a few -Baloch, remarked to the interferers that he had been franked through the -country by paying at Nzasa. To this they obstinately objected. The -Baloch began to light their matches and to use hard words. A fight -appeared imminent. Presently, however, when the Wazaramo saw my flag -rounding the hill-shoulder with a fresh party, whose numbers were -exaggerated by distance, they gave way; and finally when Muinyi Wazira -opened upon them the invincible artillery of his tongue, they fell back -and stood off the road to gaze. The linguist returned to the rear in -great glee, blowing his finger tips, as if they had been attached to a -matchlock, and otherwise deriding the overboiling valour of the Beloch, -who, not suspecting his purport, indulged in the wildest outbreak of -boasting, offering at once to take the whole country and to convert me -into its sultan. Towards the end of the march we crossed a shallow, -salt, bitter rivulet, flowing cold and clear towards the Kingani River. -On the grassy plain below noble game--zebra and koodoo--began to appear; -whilst guinea-fowl and partridge, quail, green-pigeon, and the cuculine -bird, called in India the Malabar-pheasant, became numerous. A track of -rich red copalliferous soil, wholly without stone, and supporting black -mould, miry during the rains, and caked and cracked by the potent suns -of the hot season, led us to Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous station -in Uzaramo. It is the name of a hilly district, with many little -villages embosomed in trees, overlooking the low cultivated bottoms -where caravans encamp in the vicinity of the wells. - -Before establishing themselves in the kraal at Kiranga-Ranga, the two -rival parties of Baloch,--the Prince’s permanent escort and the -temporary guard sent by Ladha Damha from Kaole--being in a chronic state -of irritability, naturally quarrelled. With the noise of choughs -gathering to roost they vented their bile, till thirteen men belonging -to a certain Jemadar Mohammed suddenly started up, and without a word of -explanation set out on their way home. According to Said bin Salim, the -temporary guard had determined not to proceed beyond Kiranga-Ranga, and -this desertion was intended as a preliminary to others by which the -party would have lost two-thirds of its strength. I at once summoned the -Jemadars, and wrote in their presence a letter reporting the conduct of -their men to the dreaded Balyuz, the consul, who was supposed to be -still anchored off Kaole. Seeing the bastinado in prospect, the Jemadar -Yaruk shouldered his sabre, slung his shield over his arm, set out in -pursuit of the fugitives, and soon succeeded in bringing them back. He -was a good specimen of the true Baloch mountaineer--a tall, gaunt, and -large-boned figure, with dark complexion deeply pitted by small-pox, -hard, high, and sun-burnt features of exceeding harshness; an armoury in -epitome was stuck in his belt, and his hand seemed never to rest but -upon a weapon. - -The 4th of July was a halt at Kiranga-Ranga. Two asses had been lost, -the back-sinews of a third had been strained, and all the others had -been so wearied by their inordinate burdens, to which on the last march -the meat of a koodoo, equal in weight to a young bullock, had been -superadded, that a rest was deemed indispensable. I took the opportunity -of wandering over and of prospecting the country. The scene was one of -admirable fertility; rice, maize, and manioc grew in the rankest and -richest crops, and the uncultivated lands bore the Corindah bush -(Carissa Carandas), the salsaparilla vine, the small whitish-green -mulberry (the Morus alba of India), and the crimson flowers of the -Rosel. In the lower levels near the river rose the giants of the forest. -The Mparamusi shot up its tall head, whose bunchy tresses rustled in the -breeze when all below was still. The stately Msufi, a Bombax or -silk-cotton tree, showed as many as four or five trunks, each two to -three feet in diameter, rising from the same roots; the long tapering -branches stood out stiffly at right angles from the bole; and the -leaves, instead of forming masses of foliage, were sparsely scattered in -small dense growth. The Msukulio, unknown to the people of Zanzibar, was -a pile of dark verdure, which dwarfed the finest oaks and elms of an -English park. No traces of game appeared in the likeliest of places; -perhaps it preferred lurking in the tall gross grass, which was not yet -in a fit state to burn. - -At Kiranga-Ranga the weather began to be unpropitious. The Mcho’o, the -heavy showers which fall between the Masika or vernal, and the Vuli or -autumnal rains, set in with regularity, and accompanied us during the -transit of the maritime plain. I therefore refused to halt more than one -day, although the P’hazi or chiefs of the Wazaramo showed, by sending -presents of goats and grain, great civility--a civility purchased, -however, by Said bin Salim at the price of giving to each man whatever -he demanded; even women were never allowed to leave the camp -unpropitiated. I was not permitted in this part to enter the villages, -although the Wazaramo do not usually exclude strangers who venture upon -their dangerous hospitality. Girls are appointed to attend upon them, -and in case of sickness or accident happening to any one in the -settlement, they are severely interrogated concerning the morality of -the guest, and an unfavourable account of it leads to extortion and -violence. The Wazaramo, like the Wagogo, and unlike the other East -African tribes, are jealous of their women; still “damages” will act, as -they have acted in other lands, as salve to wounded honour and broken -heart. - -On the 5th of July we set out betimes, and traversing the fields around -Kiranga-Ranga, struck through a dense jungle, here rising above, there -bending into the river valley, to some stagnant pools which supply the -district with water. The station, reached in 3^{hrs} 30′, was called -Tumba Ihere, after the headman, who accompanied us. Here we saw cocos -emerging from a fetid vegetation, and for the last time the Mwembe or -mango, a richly foliaged but stunted tree which never attains the -magnificent dimensions observed at Zanzibar. Several down-caravans were -halted at Tumba Ihere; the slaves brought from the interior were tied -together by their necks, and one obstinate deserter was so lashed to a -forked pole with the bifurcation under his chin, that when once on the -ground he could not rise without assistance. These wretches scarcely -appeared to like the treatment; they were not, however, in bad -condition. The Wanyamwezi porters bathed in the pools and looked at us -without fear or shame. Our daily squabble did not fail to occur. Riza, a -Baloch, drew his dagger on one of Said bin Salim’s “children,” and the -child pointed his Tower-musket at the Baloch; a furious hubbub arose; -the master, with his face livid and drawn like a cholera patient’s, -screamed shrilly as a woman, and the weapons returned to their proper -places bloodless as those wielded by Bardolph, Nym, and ancient Pistol. -My companion began to suffer from the damp heat and the reeking miasma; -he felt that a fever was coming on, and the fatigue of marching under -these circumstances prevented our mustering the party. The consequence -was, that an ass laden with rice disappeared,--it had probably been led -out of the road and unburdened by the Baloch;--whilst axes, cords, and -tethers could nowhere be found when wanted. - -On the next morning we left Tumba Ihere, and tramped over a red land -through alternate strips of rich cultivation and tangled jungle, which -presently opened out into a forest where the light-barked Msandarusi, or -copal-tree, attains its fullest dimensions. This is one of the richest -“diggins,” and the roadsides are everywhere pitted with pockets two or -three feet deep by one in diameter. Rain fell in huge drops, and the -heaviness of the ground caused frequent accidents to the asses’ loads. -About noon we entered the fine grain-fields that gird the settlements of -Muhogwe, one of the most dreaded in dreaded Uzaramo. In our case, -however, the only peril was the levée _en masse_ of the fair sex in the -villages, to stare, laugh, and wonder at the white men. “What should you -think of these whites as husbands?” asked Muinyi Wazira of the crowd. -“With such things on their legs?--Sivyo!--not by any means!”--was the -unanimous reply, accompanied with peals of merriment. - -Beyond Muhogwe all was jungle and forest, tall trees rising from red -copalliferous sand, and shading bright flowers, and blossoming shrubs. -After crossing a low mud overgrown with rush and tiger-grass, and a -watercourse dotted with black stagnant pools, we ascended rising -well-forested ground, and lastly debouched upon the kraals of Muhonyera. - -The district of Muhonyera occupies the edge of the plateau forming the -southern terrace of the Kingani River; and the elevated sea-beach is -marked out by lines of quartsoze pebbles running along the northern -slope of the hill upon which we encamped. Water is found in seven or -eight reedy holes in the valley below; it acquires from decomposed -vegetation an unnaturally sweet and slimy taste. This part of the -country, being little inhabited by reason of its malarious climate, -abounds in wild animals. The guides speak of lions, and the cry of the -Fisi or Cynhyæna was frequently heard at night, threatening destruction -to the asses. The Fisi, the Wuraba of the Somal, and the Wilde Honde of -the Cape, is the wolf of Africa, common throughout the country, where it -acts as scavenger. Though a large and powerful variety, it seldom -assaults man, except when sleeping, and then it snatches a mouthful from -the face, causing a ghastlier disfigurement even than the scalping of -the bear. Three asses belonging to the Expedition were destroyed by this -beast; in all cases they were attacked by night with a loud wrangling -shriek, and the piece of flesh was raggedly torn from the hind quarter; -after affording a live rump-steak, they could not be driven like Bruce’s -far-famed bullock. These, however, were the animals brought from -Zanzibar; that of Unyamwezi, if not tied up, defends itself successfully -against its cowardly assailant with teeth and heels, even as the zebra, -worthy of Homeric simile, has, it is said, kept the lion at bay. The -woods about Muhonyera contain large and small grey monkeys with black -faces; clinging to the trees they gaze for a time at the passing caravan -imperturbably, till curiosity being satisfied, they slip down and bound -away with long plunging leaps, like a greyhound at play. The view from -the hill-side was suggestive. The dark green plain of sombre monotony, -with its overhanging strata of mist-bank and dew-cloud, appeared in all -the worst colours of the Oude Tirhai and the Guzerat jungles. At that -season, when the moisture of the rainy monsoon was like poison distilled -by the frequent bursts of fiery sunshine, it was a valley of death for -unacclimatised travellers. Far to the west, however, rose Kidunda, “the -hillock,” a dwarf cone breaking the blurred blue line of jungle, and -somewhat northward of it towered a cloud-capped azure wall, the -mountain-crags of Duthumi, upon which the eye, long weary of low levels, -rested with a sensation of satisfaction. - -It was found necessary to halt a day at Muhonyera: according to some -authorities no provisions were procurable for a week; others declared -that there were villages on the road, but were uncertain whether rations -could be purchased. Said bin Salim sent Ambari, a favourite slave, back -to buy grain at Muhogwe, whence he had hurried us on in fear of the -Wazaramo; and the youth, after wasting a day, returned on the evening of -the 2nd July with about sixty lbs.,--a poor supply for eighty-eight -hungry bodies. This proceeding naturally affronted the Baloch, who -desired for themselves the perquisites proceeding from the purchases. -Two of their number, Yusuf and Salih Mohammed, came to swear officially -on the part of their men that there was not an ounce of grain in camp. -Appearing credulous, I paid them a visit about half an hour afterwards; -all their shuffling and sitting upon the bags could not conceal a store -of about 100 lbs. of fine white rice, whose quality,--the Baloch had -been rationed at Kaole with an inferior kind,--showed whence it came. - -After repairing the “boma,” or fenced kraal,--it had been burnt down, as -often happens, by the last caravan of Wanyamwezi,--I left my companion, -who was prostrate with fever, and went out, gun in hand, to inspect the -country, and to procure meat, that necessary having fallen short. The -good P’hazi, Tumba Ihere, accompanied me, and after return he received -an ample present for his services, and departed. The Baloch employed -themselves in cleaning their rusty matchlock-barrels with a bit of -kopra,--dried cocoa-nut meat,--in weaving for themselves sandals, like -the spartelle of the Pyrenees, with green palmetto-leaves; in preparing -calabash fibre for fatilah or gun-matches, and in twisting cords for the -asses. The best material is supplied by an aloetic plant, the Hig or -Haskul of Somaliland, here called by the Arabs Bag, and by the natives -Mukonge. The Mananazi, or pine-apple, grows wild as far as three marches -from the coast, but its fibrous qualities are unknown to the people. -Ismail, the invalid Baloch, was the worse for remedies; and two other -men gave signs of breaking down. - -During the first week, creeping along at a slug’s pace, we heard the -booming of the Artémise’s evening gun, an assurance that refuge was at -hand. Presently these reports ceased. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, seized -with mortal sickness, had left Kaole suddenly, and he died on board the -Artémise on the 5th July, shortly after his return to Zanzibar. The -first letters announcing the sad event were lost: with characteristic -African futility the porter despatched with the parcel from the island, -finding that the Expedition had passed on to the mountains of Usagara, -left his charge with a village headman, and returned to whence he came. -Easterns still hold that - - “Though it be honest, it is never good, - To bring bad news.” - -The report, spread by a travelling trader, was discussed throughout -the camp, but I was kept in ignorance of it till Khudabakhsh, a Baloch, -who had probably been deputed by his brethren to ascertain what effect -the decease of the consul would have upon me, “hardened his heart,” and -took upon himself the task of communicating the evil intelligence. I was -uncertain what to believe. Said bin Salim declared, when consulted, that -he fully trusted in the truth of the report, but his reasons were -somewhat too Arabo-African to convince me. He had found three pieces of -scarlet broadcloth damaged by rats,--an omen of death; and the colour -pointed out the nationality of the departed. - -The consul’s death might have proved fatal to the Expedition, had its -departure been delayed for a week. The court of Zanzibar had required -the stimulus of a strong official letter from Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -before it would consent, as requested by the Foreign Office, “to procure -a favourable reception on the coast, and to ensure the protection of the -chiefs of the country” for the travellers. The Hindus, headed by Ladha -Damha, showed from first to last extreme unwillingness to open up the -rich regions of copal and ivory to European eyes: they had been deceived -by my silence during the rainy season at Zanzibar into a belief that the -coast-fever had cooled my ardour for further adventure; and their -surprise at finding the contrary to be the case was not of a pleasant -nature. The home-sick Baloch would have given their ears to return, they -would have turned back even when arrived within a few marches from the -Lake. Said bin Salim took the first opportunity of suggesting the -advisability of his returning to Zanzibar for the purpose of completing -carriage. I positively refused him leave; it was a mere pretext to -ascertain whether His Highness the Sayyid Majid had or had not, in -consequence of our changed position, altered his views. - -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s death, however, was mourned for other than -merely selfish considerations. His hospitality and kindness had indeed -formed a well-omened contrast with my unauspicious reception at Aden in -1855, before my departure to explore the Eastern Horn of Africa, when -the coldness of some, and the active jealousy of other political -authorities, thwarted all my projects, and led to the tragic disaster at -Berberah.[4] Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton had received two strangers like -sons, rather than like passing visitors. During the intervals between -the painful attacks of a deadly disease, he had exerted himself to the -utmost in forwarding my views; in fact, he made my cause his own. Though -aware of his danger, he had refused to quit, until compelled by -approaching dissolution, the post which he considered his duty to hold. -He was a loss to his country, an excellent linguist, a ripe oriental -scholar, and a valuable public servant of the old Anglo-Indian school; -he was a man whose influence over Easterns, based upon their respect for -his honour and honesty, his gallantry and determination, knew no bounds; -and at heart a “sad good Christian,”--the Heavens be his bed! - - [4] Capt. R. L. Playfair, Madras Artillery and First Assistant Pol. - Resident, Aden, in a selection from the records of the Bombay - Government, (No. 49, new series, Bombay, printed for Government, at - the Education Society Press, Byculla, 1859,) curiously misnamed “A - History of Arabia Felix or Yemen,” transports himself, in a - “supplementary chapter,” to East Africa, and thus records his - impressions of what happened in the “Somali Country:”-- - - 1855.--“During the afternoon of the same day (the 18th of April), - three men visited the camp, _palpably as spies_, and as such, _the - officers of the Expedition were warned against them by their native - attendants_. Heedless of this warning, they retired to rest at night - in the fullest confidence of security, and without having taken any - extra, _or even ordinary means_, to guard against surprise.” - - The italics are my own: they designate mistatements unpardonable in an - individual whose official position enabled him to ascertain and to - record the truth. The three men were represented to me as spies, who - came to ascertain whether I was preparing to take the country for the - Chief Shermarkay, then hostile to their tribe, not as spies to spy out - the weakness of my party. I received no warning of personal danger. - The “ordinary measures,” that is to say, the posting of two sentinels - in front and rear of the camp during the night were taken, and I - cannot blame myself because they ran away. - - I will not stop to inquire what must be the value of Capt. Playfair’s - 193 pages touching the history of Yemen, when in five lines there are - three distinct and wilful deviations from fact. - - I am well aware that after my departure from Aden, in 1855, an inquiry - was instituted during my absence, and without my knowledge, into the - facts of the disaster which occurred at Berberah. The “privileged - communication” was, I believe, in due course, privily forwarded to the - Bombay Government, and the only rebuke which this shuffling proceeding - received was from a gentleman holding a high and honourable position, - who could not reconcile himself to seeing a man’s character stabbed in - the back. - -On the 8th of July we fell into what our Arab called Wady el Maut and -Dar el Jua--the Valley of Death and the Home of Hunger--the malarious -river-plain of the Kingani River. My companion was compelled by sickness -to ride, and thus the asses, now back-sore and weak with fatigue, -suffered an addition of weight, and a “son of Ramji” who was upon the -point of deserting openly required to be brought back at the muzzle of -the barrel. The path descending into a dense thicket of spear grass, -bush, and thorny trees based on sand, with a few open and scattered -plantations of holcus, presently passed on the left Dunda Nguru, or -“Seer-fish-hill,” so called because a man laden with such provision had -there been murdered by the Wazaramo. After 2^{hrs}. 45′ a ragged -camping-kraal was found on the tree-lined bank of a half-dry Fiumara, a -tributary of the neighbouring Kingani: the water was bad, and a mortal -smell of decay was emitted by the dark dank ground. It was a wild day. -From the black brumal clouds driven before furious blasts pattered -rain-drops like musket-bullets, splashing the already saturated ground. -The tall stiff trees groaned and bent before the gusts; the birds -screamed as they were driven from their perching places; the asses stood -with heads depressed, ears hung down, and shrinking tails turned towards -the weather, and even the beasts of the wild seemed to have taken refuge -in their dens. Provisions being unprocurable at “Sagesera,” the party -did what men on such occasions usually do--they ate double quantities. I -had ordered a fair distribution of the rice that remained, consequently -they cooked all day. Yusuf, a Jemadar of inferior rank, whose friends -characterised him as “sweet of tongue but bitter at heart,” vainly came -to beg, on plea of hunger, dismissal for himself and his party; and -another Baloch, Wali, reported as uselessly that a sore foot would -prevent him advancing. - -Despite our increasing weakness, we marched seven hours on the 9th of -July, over a plain wild but prodigiously fertile, and varied by patches -of field, jungle and swamp, along the right bank of the Kingani river, -to another ragged old kraal, situated near a bend in the bed. This day -showed the ghost of an adventure. At the “Makutaniro,” or junction of -the Mbuamaji trunk-road with the other lines branching from various -minor sea-ports, my companion, who was leisurely proceeding with the -advance guard, found his passage barred by about fifty Wazaramo standing -across the path in a single line that extended to the travellers’ right, -whilst a reserve party squatted on the left of the road. Their chief -stepping to the front and quietly removing the load from the foremost -porter’s head, signalled the strangers to halt. Prodigious excitement of -the Baloch, whose loud “Hai, hui!” and nervous anxiety contrasted badly -with the perfect _sang froid_ of the barbarians. Presently, Muinyi -Wazira coming up, addressed to the headman a few words, promising cloth -and beads, when this African modification of the “pike” was opened, and -the guard moved forward as before. As I passed, the Wazaramo stood under -a tree to gaze. I could not but admire the athletic and statuesque -figures of the young warriors and their martial attitude, grasping in -one hand their full-sized bows, and in the other sheaths of grinded -arrows, whose black barbs and necks showed a fresh layer of poison. - -At Tunda, “the fruit,” so called from its principal want, after a night -passed amidst the rank vegetation, and within the malarious influence of -the river, I arose weak and depressed, with aching head, burning eyes, -and throbbing extremities. The new life, the alternations of damp heat -and wet cold, the useless fatigue of walking, the sorry labour of -waiting and re-loading the asses, the exposure to sun and dew, and last, -but not least, of morbific influences, the wear and tear of mind at the -prospect of imminent failure, all were beginning to tell heavily upon -me. My companion had shaken off his preliminary symptoms, but Said bin -Salim, attacked during the rainy gusty night by a severe Mkunguru or -seasoning-fever, begged hard for a halt at Tunda--only for a day--only -for half a day--only for an hour. Even this was refused. I feared that -Tunda might prove fatal to us. Said bin Salim was mounted upon an ass, -which compelled us to a weary trudge of two hours. The animals were -laden with difficulty; they had begun to show a predilection for lying -down. The footpath, crossing a deep nullah, spanned a pestilential -expanse of spear-grass, and a cane, called from its appearance -Gugu-mbua, or the wild sugar plant, with huge calabashes and natural -clearings in the jungle, where large game appeared. After a short march -I saw the red flag of the vanguard stationary, and turning a sharp -corner found the caravan halted in a little village, called from its -headman Ba̓ńá Dirungá. This was premature. I had ordered Muinyi Wazira -to advance on that morning to Dege la Mhora, the “large jungle-bird,” -the hamlet where M. Maizan’s blood was shed. Said and Wazira had -proposed that we should pass it ere the dawn of the next day broke; the -advice was rejected, it was too dangerous a place to show fear. The two -diplomatists then bethought themselves of another manœuvre, and led me -to Ba̓ńá Dirungá, calling it Dege la Mhora. - -We halted for a day at the little hamlet, embosomed in dense grass and -thicket. On our appearance the villagers fled into the bush, their -country’s strength; but before nightfall they took heart of grace and -returned. The headman appeared to regard us with fear, he could not -comprehend why we carried so much powder and ball. When reassured he -offered to precede us, and to inform the chief of the “large -jungle-bird” that our intentions had been misrepresented,--a proposal -which seemed to do much moral good to Said, the Jemadar, and Wazira. - -On the eleventh day after leaving Kaole I was obliged to mount by a -weakness which scarcely allowed me to stand. After about half an hour, -through a comparatively open country, we passed on the left a -well-palisaded village, belonging formerly to P’hazi Mazungera, and now -occupied by his son Hembe, or the “wild buffalo’s horn.” Reports of our -warlike intentions had caused Hembe to “clear decks for action;” the -women had been sent from the village, and some score of tall youths, -archers and spearmen, admirably appointed, lined the hedges, prepared, -at the levelling of the first matchlock, to let loose a flight of -poisoned arrows, which would certainly have dispersed the whole party. A -halt was called by the trembling Said, who at such conjunctures would -cling like a woman to my companion or to me. During the few minutes’ -delay the “sons of Ramji,” who were as pale as blacks could be, allowed -their asses to bump off half a dozen loads. Presently Hembe, accompanied -by a small guard, came forward, and after a few words with Wazira and -Said, the donkey from which I had not dismounted was hurried forward by -the Baloch. Hembe followed us with a stronger escort to Madege Madogo, -the next station. Illness served me as an excuse for not receiving him: -he obtained, however, from Said a letter to the headmen of the coast, -bespeaking their good offices for certain of his slaves sent down to buy -gunpowder. - -An account of the melancholy event which cut short at Dege la Mhora the -career of the first European that ever penetrated beyond this portion of -the coast may here be inserted. - -M. Maizan, an _enseigne de vaisseau_, and a pupil of the Polytechnic -School, after a cruise in the seas off Eastern Africa, conceived, about -the end of 1843, the project of exploring the lakes of the interior, and -in 1844 his plans were approved of by his government. Arrived at -Bourbon, he was provided with a passage to Zanzibar, in company with M. -Broquant, the Consul de France, newly appointed after the French -Commercial Treaty of the 21st Nov. 1844, on board the corvette Le -Berceau, Capitaine, afterwards Vice-Admiral, Romain Desfossés, -commanding. At the age of twenty-six M. Maizan had amply qualified -himself by study for travel, and he was well provided with outfit and -instruments. His “kit,” however, was of a nature calculated to excite -savage cupidity, as was proved by the fact that his murderer converted -the gilt knob of a tent-pole into a neck ornament, and tearing out the -works of a gold chronometer, made of it a tobacco-pouch. He has been -charged with imprudence in carrying too much luggage--a _batterie de -déjeuner_, a _batterie de dîner_, and similar superfluities. But he had -acted rightly, when bound upon a journey through countries where outfit -cannot be renewed, in providing himself with all the materials for -comfort. On such explorations a veteran traveller would always attempt -to carry with him as much, not as little as possible,--of course -prepared to abandon all things, and to reduce himself, whenever the -necessity might occur, to the “_simple besace du pélerin_.” It is easy -to throw away a superfluity, and the best preparation for severe -“roughing it,” is to enjoy ease and comfort whilst attainable. - -But M. Maizan fell upon evil times at Zanzibar. Dark innuendos -concerning French ambition--that nation being even suspected of a desire -to establish itself in force at Lamu, Pangani, and other places on the -coast of East Africa--filled Hindu and Hindi with fear for their -profits. These men influenced the inhabitants of the island and the -sea-coast, who probably procured the co-operation of their wild brethren -in the interior. For the purpose of learning the Kisawahili, M. Maizan -delayed nearly eight months at Zanzibar, and, seeing a French vessel -entering the harbour, he left the place precipitately, fearing a recall. -Vainly also M. Broquant had warned him against his principal confidant, -a noted swindler, and Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton had cautioned him to no -purpose that his glittering instruments and his numerous boxes, all of -which would be supposed to contain dollars, were dangerous. He visited -the coast thrice before finally landing, thus giving the Wasawahili time -and opportunity to mature their plans. He lowered himself in the eyes of -the Arabs by “making brotherhood” with a native of Unyamwezi. Finally, -fearing Arab apathy and dilatoriness, he hastened into the country -without waiting for the strong armed escort promised to him by His -Highness the late Sayyid Said. - -These were grave errors; but they were nothing in comparison with that -of trusting himself unarmed, after the fatal habit of Europeans, and -without followers, into the hands of an African chief. How often has -British India had to deplore deaths “that would have dimmed a victory,” -caused by recklessness of danger or by the false shame which prevents -men in high position from wearing weapons where they may be at any -moment required, lest the safe mediocrities around them should deride -such excess of cautiousness! - -After the rains of 1845 M. Maizan landed at Bagamoyo, a little -settlement opposite the island of Zanzibar. There leaving the forty -musketeers, his private guard, he pressed on, contrary to the advice of -his Mnyamwezi brother, escorted only by Frédérique, a Madagascar or -Comoro man, and by a few followers, to visit P’hazi Mazungera, the chief -of the Wákámbá, a subtribe of the Wazaramo, at his village of Dege la -Mhora. He was received with a treacherous cordiality, of which he -appears to have been completely the dupe. After some days of the most -friendly intercourse, during which the villain’s plans were being -matured, Mazungera, suddenly sending for his guest, reproached him as he -entered the hut with giving away goods to other chiefs. Presently -working himself into a rage, the African exclaimed, “Thou shalt die at -this moment!” At the signal a crowd of savages rushed in, bearing two -long poles. Frédérique was saved by the P’hazi’s wife: he cried to his -master to run and touch her, in which case he would have been under her -protection; but the traveller had probably lost presence of mind, and -the woman was removed. The unfortunate man’s arms were then tightly -bound to a pole lashed crosswise upon another, to which his legs and -head were secured by a rope tied across the brow. In this state he was -carried out of the village to a calabash-tree, pointed out to me, about -fifty yards on the opposite side of the road. The inhuman Mazungera -first severed all his articulations, whilst the war-song and the drum -sounded notes of triumph. Finding the sime, or double-edged knife, -somewhat blunt, he stopped, when in the act of cutting his victim’s -throat, to whet the edge, and, having finished the bloody deed, he -concluded with wrenching the head from the body. - -Thus perished an amiable, talented, and highly educated man, whose only -fault was rashness--too often the word for enterprise when Fortune -withholds her smile. The savage Mazungera was disappointed in his -guest’s death. The object of the torture was to discover, as the Mganga -had advised, the place of his treasures, whereas the wretched man only -groaned and implored forgiveness of his sins, and called upon the names -of those friends whose advice he had neglected. The P’hazi then -attempted to decoy from Bagamoyo the forty musketeers left with the -outfit, but in this he failed. He then proceeded to make capital of his -foul deed. When Snay bin Amir, a Maskat merchant,--of whom I shall have -much to say,--appeared with a large caravan at Dege la Mhora, Mazungera -demanded a new tribute for free passage; and, as a threat, he displayed -the knife with which he had committed the murder. But Snay proved -himself a man not to be trifled with. - -Frédérique returned to Zanzibar shortly after the murder, and was -examined by M. Broquant. An infamous plot would probably have come to -light had he not fled from the fort where he was confined. Frédérique -disappeared mysteriously. He is said now to be living at Marungu, on the -Tanganyika Lake, under the Moslem name of Muhammádí. His flight served -for a pretext to mischievous men that the prince was implicated in the -murder: they also spread a notoriously false report that Mazungera, an -independent chief, was a vassal of the suzerain of Zanzibar. - -In 1846 the brig-of-war Le Ducoüedic, of the naval division of Bourbon, -M. Guillain, Capitaine de Vaisseau, commanding, was charged, amongst -other commercial and political interests, with insisting upon severe -measures to punish the murderers. In vain His Highness Sayyid Said -protested that Mazungera was beyond his reach; the fact of the -robber-chief having been seen at Mbuamaji on the coast after the murder -was deemed conclusive evidence to the contrary. At length the Sayyid -despatched up-country three or four hundred musketeers, mercenaries, and -slaves, under command of Juma Mfumbi, the late, and Bori, the present, -Diwan of Saadani. The little troop marched some distance into the -country, when they were suddenly confronted by the Wazaramo, commanded -by Hembe, the son of Mazungera, who, after skirmishing for a couple of -days, fled wounded by a matchlock-ball. The chief result of the -expedition was the capture of a luckless clansman who had beaten the -war-drum during the murder. He was at once transferred to Zanzibar, and -passed off by these transparent African diplomatists as P’hazi -Mazungera. For nearly two years he was chained in front of the French -Consulate; after that time he was placed in the fort heavily ironed to a -gun under a cadjan shed, where he could hardly stand or lie down. The -unhappy wretch died about a year ago, and Zanzibar lost one of its -lions. - -After the slaughter of M. Maizan the direct route through Dege la Mhora -was long closed, it is said, and is still believed, by a “ghul,” a -dragon or huge serpent, who, of course, was supposed to be the -demon-ghost of the murdered man. The reader will rejoice to hear that -the miscreant Mazungera, who has evaded human, has not escaped divine -punishment. The miserable old man is haunted by the P’hepo or spirit of -the guest so foully slain: the torments which he has brought upon -himself have driven him into a kind of exile; and his tribe, as has been -mentioned, has steadily declined from its former position with even a -greater decline in prospect. The jealous national honour displayed by -the French Government on the occasion of M. Maizan’s murder has begun to -bear fruit. - -Its sensitiveness contrasts well with our proceedings on similar -occasions. Rahmat, the murderer of Captain Milne, still wanders free -over the hills in sight of Aden. By punishing the treacherous slaughter -of a servant of Government, the price of provisions at the coal-hole of -the East would have been raised. Au Ali, the murderer of Lieut. Stroyan, -is still at large in the neighbourhood of Berberah, when a few dollars -would have brought in his head. The burlesque of a blockade,--Capt. -Playfair, in a work previously characterised, has officially mistermed -it, to the astonishment of Aden, “a rigid blockade,” a “severe -punishment,” and so forth,--was considered sufficient to chastise the -Somal of Berberah for their cowardly onslaught on strangers and guests; -and though the people offered an equivalent for the public and private -property destroyed by them, the spirit of Centralisation, by an exercise -of its peculiar attributes, omniscience and omnipresence, decided that -the indemnity, which in such cases is customary throughout the East, -must not be accepted, because--forsooth!--it was not deserved by the -officers. This is a new plan, a system lately adopted by the nation once -called “la plus orgueilleuse et la plus perilleuse”--to win and preserve -respect in lands where prestige is its principal power. The Arabs of -Yemen have already learned from it to characterise their invaders as -Sahib Hilah,--a tricky, peddling manner of folk. They--wiser men than -we--will not take upon themselves the pains and penalties of -subject-hood, without its sole counterweight, the protection of their -rulers, in cases where protection is required. - -At Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” so called in contradistinction to -its western and neighbouring district, Madege Makuba, the “great birds,” -we pitched tent under a large sycamore; and the Baloch passed a night of -alarms, fancying in every sound the approach of a leopard, a -hippopotamus, or a crocodile. On the 13th July, we set out after dawn, -and traversing forest, jungle, and bush, chequered with mud and morass, -hard by the bending and densely-wooded line of the Kingani River, -reached in three hours’ march an unwholesome camping-ground, called from -a conspicuous landmark Kidunda, the “little hill.” Here the scenery is -effective. The swift, yellow stream, about fifty yards broad, sweeps -under tall, stiff earth-works, ever green with tangled vegetation and -noble trees. The conical huts of the cultivators are disposed in -scattered patches to guard their luxuriant crops, whilst on the northern -bank the woody hillock, and on the southern rising ground, apparently -the ancient river-terrace, affect the sight agreeably after the -evergreen monotony of the river-plain. A petty chief, Mvirama, -accompanied by a small party of armed men, posted himself near the -cantonment, demanding rice, which was refused with asperity. At this -frontier station the Wazaramo, mixed up with the tribes of Udoe, K’hutu, -and Usagara, are no longer dreaded. - -From Kidunda, the route led over sandy ground, with lines and scatters -of water-worn pebbles, descended the precipitous inclines of sandstone, -broken into steps of slabs and flags, and crossed the Manyora, a rough -and rocky Fiumara, abounding in blocks of snowy quartz, grey and pink -syenites, erratic boulders of the hornblende used as whetstones, and -strata of a rude sandstone conglomerate. Thence it spanned grass, bush, -and forest, close to the Kingani, and finally leaving the stream on the -right hand, it traversed sandy soil, and, ascending a wave of ground, -abutted upon the Mgeta or rivulet, a large perennial influent, which, -rising in the mountains of Duthumi, drains the head of the River-valley. - -This lower portion of the Mgeta’s bed was unfordable after the heavy -rains: other caravans, however, had made a rude bridge of trees, felled -on each side, lashed with creepers, and jammed together by the force of -the current. The men perched upon the trunks and boughs, tossed or -handed to one another the loads and packages, whilst the asses, pushed -by force of arm down the banks, were driven with sticks and stones -across the stream. Suddenly a louder cry than usual arose from the mob; -my double-barrelled elephant-gun found a grave below the cold and -swirling waters. The Goanese Gaetano had the courage to plunge in; the -depth was about twelve feet; the sole was of roots and loose sand, and -the stream ran with considerable force. I bade farewell to that gun;--by -the bye it was the second accident of the kind that had occurred to -it;--the country people cannot dive, and no one ventures to affront the -_genius loci_, the mamba or crocodile. I found consolation in the -thought that the Expedition had passed without accident through the most -dangerous part of the journey. In 18 days, from the 27th of June, to the -14th of July, I had accomplished, despite sickness and all manner of -difficulties, a march of 118 indirect statute miles, and had entered -K’hutu, the safe rendezvous of foreign merchants. - -Resuming our march on the 15th July, we entered the “Doab,”[5] on the -western bank of the Mgeta, where a thick and tangled jungle, with -luxuriant and putrescent vegetation, is backed by low, grassy grounds, -frequently inundated. Presently, however, the dense thicket opened out -into a fine park country, peculiarly rich in game, where the calabash -and the giant trees of the seaboard gave way to mimosas, gums, and -stunted thorns. Large gnus, whom the porters regard with a wholesome -awe, declaring that they are capable of charging a caravan, pranced -about, pawing the ground, and shaking their formidable manes; hartebeest -and other antelopes clustered together on the plain, or travelled in -herds to slake their thirst at the river. The homely cry of the -partridge resounded from the brake, and the guinea-fowls looked like -large bluebells upon the trees. Small land-crabs took refuge in the pits -and holes, which made the path a cause of frequent accidents; whilst -ants of various kinds, crossing the road in close columns, attacked man -and beast ferociously, causing the caravan to break into a halting, -trotting hobble, ludicrous to behold. Whilst crossing a sandy Fiumara, -Abdullah, a Baloch, lodged by accident four ounces of lead, the contents -of my second elephant-gun, in the head of an ass. After a march of six -hours we entered Kiruru, a small, ragged, and muddy village of Wak’hutu, -deep in a plantation of holcus, whose tall, stiff canes nearly swept me -from the saddle. The weather was a succession of raw mist, rain in -torrents, and fiery sunbursts; the land appeared rotten, and the jungle -smelt of death. At Kiruru I found a cottage, and enjoyed for the first -time an atmosphere of sweet warm smoke. My companion remained in the -reeking, miry tent, where he partially laid the foundation of the fever -which threatened his life in the mountains of Usagara. - - [5] This useful word, which means the land embraced by the bifurcation - of two streams, has no English equivalent. “Doab,” “Dhun” (Dhoon), - “Nullah,” and “Ghaut,” might be naturalised with advantage in our - mother tongue. - -Despite the danger of hyænas, leopards, and crocodiles to an -ass-caravan, we were delayed by the torrents of rain and the depth of -the mud for two days at Kiruru. According to the people, the district -derives its name “palm leaves,” from a thirsty traveller, who, not -knowing that water was near, chewed the leaves of the hyphæna-palm till -he died. One of the Baloch proposed a “Hammam,”--a primitive form of the -“lamp-bath,” practised in most parts of Central Asia,--as a cure for -fever: he placed me upon one of the dwarf stools used by the people, and -under the many abas or hair-cloaks with which I was invested he -introduced a bit of pottery containing live coal and a little -frankincense. At Kiruru I engaged six porters to assist our jaded -animals as far as the next station. The headman was civil, but the -people sold their grain with difficulty. - -On the 18th July we resumed our march over a tract which caused sinking -of the heart in men who expected a long journey under similar -circumstances. Near Kiruru the thick grass and the humid vegetation, -dripping till midday with dew, rendered the black earth greasy and -slippery. The road became worse as we advanced over deep thick mire -interlaced with tree-roots through a dense jungle and forest, chiefly of -the distorted hyphæna-palm, in places varied by the Mparamusi and the -gigantic Msukulío, over barrens of low mimosa, and dreary savannahs cut -by steep nullahs. In three places we crossed bogs from 100 yards to a -mile in length, and admitting a man up to the knee; the porters plunged -through them like laden animals, and I was obliged to be held upon the -ass. This “Yegea Mud,” caused by want of water-shed after rain, is -sometimes neck-deep; it never dries except when the moisture has been -evaporated by sun and wind during the middle of the Kaskazi or N. E. -monsoon. The only redeeming feature in the view was a foreground of -lovely hill, the highlands of Dut’humi, plum-coloured in the distance -and at times gilt by a sudden outburst of sunshine. Towards the end of -the march, I forged ahead of the caravan, and passing through numerous -villages, surrounded by holcus-fields, arrived at a settlement tenanted -by Sayf bin Salim, an Arab merchant, who afterwards proved to be a -notorious “mauvais sujet.” A Harisi from Birkah in Oman, he was a tall -thin-featured venerable-looking man, whose old age had been hurried on -by his constancy to pombe-beer. A long residence in Unyamwezi had -enabled him to incur the hostility of his fellow-merchants, especially -one Salim bin Said el Sawwafi, who, with other Arabs, persuaded Mpagamo, -an African chief, to seize upon Sayf, and after tying him up in full -view of the plundering and burning of his store-house, to drive him out -of the country. Retreating to Dut’humi, he had again collected a small -stock in trade, especially of slaves, whom he chained and treated so -severely that all men predicted for him an evil end. “Msopora,” as he -was waggishly nicknamed by the Wanyamwezi, instantly began to backbite -Said bin Salim, whom he pronounced utterly unfit to manage our affairs; -I silenced him by falling asleep upon a cartel placed under the cool -eaves of a hut. Presently staggered in my companion almost too ill to -speak; over-fatigue had prostrated his strength. By slow degrees, and -hardly able to walk, appeared the Arab, the Baloch, the slaves and the -asses, each and every having been bogged in turn. On this occasion -Wazira had acted guide, and used to “bog-trotting,” he had preferred the -short cut to the cleaner road that rounds the swamps. - -At Dut’humi we were detained nearly a week; the malaria had brought on -attacks of marsh fever, which in my case lasted about 20 days; the -paroxysms were mild compared with the Indian or the Sindhian type, yet, -favoured by the atonic state of the constitution, they thoroughly -prostrated me. I had during the fever-fit, and often for hours -afterwards, a queer conviction of divided identity, never ceasing to be -two persons that generally thwarted and opposed each other; the -sleepless nights brought with them horrid visions, animals of grisliest -form, hag-like women and men with heads protruding from their breasts. -My companion suffered even more severely, he had a fainting-fit which -strongly resembled a sun-stroke, and which seemed permanently to affect -his brain. Said bin Salim was the convalescent of the party; the two -Goanese yielded themselves wholly to maladies, brought on mainly by hard -eating, and had they not been forced to rise, they would probably never -have risen again. Our sufferings were increased by other causes than -climate. The riding asses having been given up for loads, we were -compelled, when premonitory symptoms suggested rest, to walk, sometimes -for many miles in a single heat, through sun and rain, through mud and -miasmatic putridities. Even ass-riding caused over-fatigue. It by no -means deserves in these lands the reputation of an anile exercise, as it -does in Europe. Maître Aliboron in Africa is stubborn, vicious and -guilty of the four mortal sins of the equine race, he shies and -stumbles, he rears and runs away: my companion has been thrown as often -as twice in two hours. The animals are addicted to fidgetting, plunging -and pirouetting when mounted, they hog and buck till they burst their -frail girths, they seem to prefer holes and hollows, they rush about -pig-like when high winds blow, and they bolt under tree-shade when the -sun shines hot. They must be led, or, ever preferring the worst ground, -they disdain to follow the path, and when difficulties arise the slave -will surely drop the halter, and get out of harm’s way. If a pace -exceeding two miles an hour be required, a second man must follow and -flog each of these perfect slugs during the whole march. The roundness -of their flanks, the shortness of their backs, and their want of -shoulder, combine to make the meagre Arab packsaddle unsafe for anything -but a baboon or a boy, whilst the straightness and the rigidity of their -goat-like pasterns render the pace a wearisome, tripping hobble. We had, -it is true, Zanzibari riding-asses, but the delicate animals soon chafed -and presently died; we were then reduced to the Koroma or half-reclaimed -beast of Wanyamwezi. The laden asses gave us even more trouble. The -slaves would not attend to the girthing and the balancing of -parcels--the great secret of donkey-loading--consequently the burdens -were thrown at every mud or broken ground: the unwilling Baloch only -grumbled, sat down and stared, leaving their Jemadars with Said bin -Salim and ourselves to reload. My companion and I brought up the rear by -alternate days, and sometimes we did not arrive before the afternoon at -the camping ground. The ropes and cords intended to secure the herd were -regularly stolen, that I might be forced to buy others: the animals were -never pounded for the night, and during our illness none of the party -took the trouble to number them. Thus several beasts were lost, and the -grounding of the Expedition appeared imminent and permanent. The result -was a sensation of wretchedness, hard to describe; every morning dawned -upon me with a fresh load of cares and troubles, and every evening -reminded me as it closed in, that another and a miserable morrow was to -dawn. But “in despair,” as the Arabs say, “are many hopes;” though -sorrow endured for the night--and many were “white” with anxiety--we -never relinquished the determination to risk everything, ourselves -included, rather than to return unsuccessful. - -Dut’humi, one of the most fertile districts in K’hutu, is a plain of -black earth and sand, choked with vegetation where not corrected by the -axe. It is watered by the perennial stream of the same name, which, -rising in the islands, adds its quotum to the waters of the Mgazi, and -eventually to the Mgeta and the Kingani Rivers. In such places -artificial irrigation is common, the element being distributed over the -fields by hollow ridges. The mountains of Dut’humi form the northern -boundary of the plain. They appear to rise abruptly, but they throw off -southerly lower eminences, which diminish in elevation till confounded -with the almost horizontal surface of the champaign; the jagged broken -crests and peaks argue a primitive formation. Their lay is to the -N.N.W.; after four days’ journey, according to the guides, they -inosculate with the main chain of the Usagara Mountains, and they are -probably the southern buttress of Ngu, or Nguru, the hill region -westward of Saadani. This chain is said to send forth the Kingani River, -which, gushing from a cave or fissure in the eastern, is swollen to a -large perennial stream by feeders from the southern slopes, whilst the -Mgeta flows from the western face of the water-parting, and circles the -southern base. The cold temperature of these cloud-capped and rainy -crags, which never expose their outlines except in the clearest weather, -affects the plains; by day bleak north-east and north-west gusts pour -down upon the sun-parched Dut’humi, and at night the thermometer will -sink to 70°, and even to 65° F. Water is supposed to freeze upon the -highlands, yet they are not unhealthy; sheep, goats, and poultry abound; -betel-pepper grows there, according to the Arabs, and, as in the -lowlands, holcus and sesamum, manioc and sweet-potatoes (Convolvulus -batata), cucumbers, the turai (Luffa acutangula), and beans, plantains, -and sugar-cane, are plentiful. The thick jungle at the base of the hills -shelters the elephant, the rhinoceros in considerable numbers, the gnu, -and the koodoo, which, however, can rarely be found when the grass is -high; a variety of the ngole--a small Dendraspis--haunts the patriarchs -of the forest, and the chirrup of the mongoose, which the people enjoy, -as Europeans do the monotonous note of the cricket, is heard in the -brakes at eventide. This part of the country, about six hours’ march -northward from Dut’humi, is called the Inland Magogoni; and it is -traversed by the “Mdimu” nullah, which falls into the Mgeta River. The -fertile valleys in the lower and southern folds are inhabited by the -Wákumbáku(?),[6] and by the Wásuop’hángá tribes; the higher elevations, -which apparently range from 3000 to 4000 feet, by the Waruguru. They are -compelled to fortify themselves against the cold and the villanous races -around them. The plague of the land is now one Kisabengo, a Mzegura of -low origin, who, after conquering Ukami, a district extending from the -eastern flank of the Dut’humi hills seawards, from its Moslem diwan, -Ngozi, _alias_ Kingaru, has raised himself to the rank of a Shene -Khambi, or principal headman. Aided by the kidnapping Moslem coast clans -of Whinde, a small coast town opposite the island of Zanzibar, and his -fellow tribemen of Uzegura, he has transferred by his frequent commandos -almost all the people of Ukámí, chiefly Wásuop’hángá and Wárúgúrú, to -the slave-market of Zanzibar, and, thus compelled to push his -depredations further west, he has laid waste the lands even beyond the -Mukondokwa river-valley. The hill tribes, however, still receive -strangers hospitably into their villages. They have a place visited even -by distant Wazaramo pilgrims. It is described as a cave where a P’hepo -or the disembodied spirit of a man, in fact a ghost, produces a terrible -subterraneous sound, called by the people Kurero or Bokero; it arises -probably from the flow of water underground. In a pool in the cave women -bathe for the blessing of issue, and men sacrifice sheep and goats to -obtain fruitful seasons and success in war. These hill-races speak -peculiar dialects, which, according to the guides, are closely connected -with Kik’hutu. - - [6] This unsatisfactory figure of print will often occur in these - pages. Ignorance, error, and causeless falsehood, together with the - grossest exaggeration, deter the traveller from committing himself to - any assertion which he has not proved to his own satisfaction. - -Despite the bad name of Dut’humi as regards climate, Arabs sometimes -reside there for some months for the purpose of purchasing slaves -cheaply and to repair their broken fortunes for a fresh trip to the -interior. This keeps up a perpetual feud amongst the chiefs of the -country, and scarcely a month passes without fields being laid waste, -villages burnt down, and the unhappy cultivators being carried off to be -sold. - -At Dut’humi a little expedition was sent against Manda, a petty chief, -who, despite the presence of the Sayyid’s troops, had plundered a -village and had kidnapped five of the subjects of Mgota, his weaker -neighbour. I had the satisfaction of restoring the stolen wretches to -their hearths and homes, and two decrepid old women that had been -rescued from slavery thanked me with tears of joy. - -This easy good deed done, I was able, though with swimming head and -trembling hands, to prepare accounts and a brief report of proceedings -for the Royal Geographical Society. These, together with other papers, -especially an urgent request for medical comforts and drugs, especially -quinine and narcotics, addressed to Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, or, in case -of accidents, to M. Cochet, Consul de France, were entrusted to Jemadar -Yaruk, whom, moreover, I took the liberty of recommending to the prince -for the then vacant command of the Bagamoyo garrison. The escort from -Kaole, reduced in number by three desertions, was dismissed. All the -volunteers had been clamouring to return, and I could no longer afford -to keep them. Besides the two supplies of cloth, wire, and beads, which -preceded, and which were left to follow us, I had been provided by Ladha -Damha with a stock of white and blue cottons, some handsome articles of -dress, 20,000 strings of white and black, pink, blue, and green, red and -brown porcelain-beads, needles, and other articles of hardware, to -defray transit-charges through Uzarama. This provision, valued at 295 -dollars, should have carried us to the end of the third month; it lasted -about three weeks. Said bin Salim, to whom it had been entrusted, had -been generous, through fear, to every half-naked barbarian that chose to -stretch forth the hand of beggary; moreover, whilst too ill to -superintend disbursements, he had allowed his “children,” aided by the -Baloch and the “sons of Ramji,” to “loot” whatever they could seize and -secrete. Ladha Damha, unable to complete our carriage, had hit upon the -notable device of converting eighteen pieces of American domestics into -saddle-cloths for the asses: the stuff was used at halts as bedding by -the Baloch and others; and,--a proof that much had fallen into wrong -hands,--the thirteen men composing our permanent guard, increased the -number of their laden asses from two to five; moreover, for many weeks -afterwards, the “sons of Ramji” could afford to expend four to five -cloths upon a goat. On the 21st July the escort from Kaole departed with -a general discharge of matchlocks. Their disappearance was hailed as a -blessing; they had pestered me for rations, and had begged for asses -till midnight. They were the refuse of their service; they thought of, -they dreamed of, nothing but food; they would do no work; they were -continually attempting violence upon the timid Wak’hutu, and they seemed -resolved to make the name of Baloch equally hateful and contemptible. - -I had been careful to bring from Zanzibar four hammocks, which, slung to -poles, formed the conveyance, called by the Indians “manchil;” by the -Portuguese “manchila;” and in West Africa “tipoia.” Sayf bin Salim -agreed for the sum of ten dollars to hire his slaves as porters for -ourselves and our outfit. On the 24th July, feeling strong enough to -advance, we passed out of the cultivation of Dut’humi. Crossing a steep -and muddy bed, knee-deep even in the dry season, we entered fields under -the outlying hillocks of the highlands. These low cones, like similar -formations in India, are not inhabited; they are even more malarious -than the plains, the surface is rocky, and the woodage, not ceasing as -in higher elevations, extends from base to summit. Beyond the -cultivation the route plunges into a jungle, where the European -traveller realises every preconceived idea of Africa’s aspect, at once -hideous and grotesque. The general appearance is a mingling of bush and -forest, which, contracting the horizon to a few yards, is equally -monotonous to the eye and palling to the imagination. The black greasy -ground, veiled with thick shrubbery, supports in the more open spaces -screens of tiger and spear-grass, twelve and thirteen feet high, with -every blade a finger’s breadth; and the towering trees are often clothed -from root to twig with huge epiphytes, forming heavy columns of densest -verdure, and clustering upon the tops in the semblance of enormous -bird’s nests. The foot-paths, in places “dead,”--as the natives -say,--with encroaching bush, are crossed by llianas, creepers and -climbers, thick as coir-cables, some connecting the trees in a curved -line, others stretched straight down the trunks, others winding in all -directions around their supports, frequently crossing one another like -network and stunting the growth of even the vivacious calabash, by coils -like rope tightly encircling its neck. The earth, ever rain-drenched, -emits the odour of sulphuretted hydrogen, and in some parts the -traveller might fancy a corpse to be hidden behind every bush. To this -sad picture of miasma the firmament is a fitting frame: a wild sky, -whose heavy purple nimbi, chased by raffales and chilling gusts, -dissolve in large-dropped showers; or a dull, dark grey expanse, which -lies like a pall over the world. In the finer weather the atmosphere is -pale and sickly; its mists and vapours seem to concentrate the rays of -the oppressive “rain-sun.” The sensation experienced at once explains -the apathy and indolence, the physical debility, and the mental -prostration, that are the gifts of climates which moist heat and damp -cold render equally unsalubrious and uncomfortable. That no feature of -miasma might be wanting to complete the picture, filthy heaps of the -rudest hovels, built in holes in the jungle, sheltered their few -miserable inhabitants, whose frames are lean with constant intoxication, -and whose limbs, distorted by ulcerous sores, attest the hostility of -Nature to mankind. Such a revolting scene is East Africa from central -K’hutu to the base of the Usagara Mountains. - -Running through this fetid flat the path passed on the left sundry -shallow salt-pits which, according to the Arabs, are wet during the dry -and dry during the wet season. Presently after breaking through another -fence of holcus, whose cane was stiffer than the rattans of an Indian -jungle, we entered, and found lodgings in Bakera, a pretty little hamlet -ringed with papaws and plantains, upon which the doves disported -themselves. Here, on our return in 1859, a thick growth of grass waved -over the ground-marks of hearth and roof-tree. The African has a -superstitious horror of stone walls; he is still a semi-nomade, from the -effects of the Wandertrieb, or man’s vagabond instinct, uncurbed by the -habits of civilisation. Though vestiges of large and stable habitations -have been discovered in the barbarous Eastern Horn, in these days, -between the parallels of Harar and the ruined Portuguese towns near -the Zambezi Rivers, inner Africa ignores a town of masonry. In -our theoretical maps, the circlets used by cartographers to denote -cities serve only to mislead; their names prove them to be -Saltanats--lordships, districts or provinces. - -Resuming our course on the next day through hollows and rice-swamps, -where almost every ass fell or cast its load, we came after a long tramp -to the nearest outposts of the Zungomero district; here were several -caravans with pitched tents, piles of ivory and crowds of porters. The -gang of thirty-six Wanyamwezi, who had preceded us, having located -themselves at a distant hamlet, we resumed our march, and presently were -met by a number of our men headed by their guard, the two “sons of -Ramji.” Ensued a general sword and spear play, each man with howls and -cheers brandished his blade or vibrated his missile, rushing about in -all directions, and dealing death amongst ideal foes with such action as -may often be observed in poultry-yards when the hens indulge in a little -merry pugnacity. The march had occupied us four weeks, about double the -usual time, and the porters had naturally began to suspect accidents -from the Wazaramo. - -Zungomero, the head of the great river-valley, is a plain of black earth -and sand, prodigiously fertile. It is enclosed on all sides except the -eastern, or the line of drainage; northwards rise the peaks of Dut’humi; -westwards lie the little Wigo hills and the other spurs of Usagara, -uncultivated and uninhabited, though the country is populous up to their -feet; and southwards are detached cones of similar formation, steep, -rocky, and densely wooded. The sea-breeze is here strong, but beyond its -influence the atmosphere is sultry and oppressive; owing to maritime -influences the kosi, or south-west wind, sometimes continues till the -end of July. The normal day, which varies little throughout the year, -begins with the light milky mist which forms the cloud-ring; by degrees -nimbi and cumuli come up from the east, investing the heights of -Dut’humi, and, when showers are imminent, a heavy line of stratus -bisects the highlands and overlies the surface of the plain. At the -epochs of the lunar change rain falls once or twice during the day and -night, and, when the clouds burst, a fiery sun sucks up poison from the -earth’s putridity. The early nights are oppressive, and towards the dawn -condensation causes a copious deposit of heavy dew, which even the -people of the country dread. A prolonged halt causes general sickness -amongst the porters and slaves of a caravan. The humidity of the -atmosphere corrodes everything with which it comes in contact; the -springs of powder-flasks exposed to the damp snap like toasted quills; -clothes feel limp and damp; paper, becoming soft and soppy by the loss -of glazing, acts as a blotter; boots, books, and botanical collections -are blackened; metals are ever rusty; the best percussion caps, though -labelled waterproof, will not detonate unless carefully stowed away in -waxed cloth and tin boxes; gunpowder, if not kept from the air, refuses -to ignite; and wood becomes covered with mildew. We had an abundance of -common German phosphor-matches, and the best English wax lucifers; both, -however, became equally unserviceable, the heads shrank and sprang off -at the least touch, and the boxes frequently became a mere mass of -paste. To future travellers I should recommend the “good old plan;” a -bit of phosphorus in a little phial half full of olive oil, which serves -for light as well as ignition. When accompanied by matchlock-men, -however, there is no difficulty about fire; their pouches always contain -a steel and flint, and a store of cotton, or of the wild Bombex, dipped -in saltpetre or gunpowder solution. - -Yet Zungomero is the great Bandárí or centre of traffic in the eastern, -as are Unyanyembe and Ujiji in the middle and the western regions. Lying -upon the main trunk-road, it must be traversed by the up and -down-caravans, and, during the travelling season, between June and -April, large bodies of some thousand men pass through it every week. -Kilwa formerly sent caravans to it, and the Wanyamwezi porters have -frequently made that port by the “Mwera road.” The Arab merchants -usually pitch tents, preferring them to the leaky native huts, full of -hens and pigeons, rats and mice, snakes and lizards, crickets and -cockroaches, gnats and flies, and spiders of hideous appearance, where -the inmates are often routed by swarms of bees, and are ever in imminent -danger of fires. The armed slaves accompanying the caravan seize the -best huts, which they either monopolise or share with the hapless -inmates, and the porters stow themselves away under the projecting eaves -of the habitations. The main attraction of the place is the plenty of -provisions. Grain is so abundant that the inhabitants exist almost -entirely upon the intoxicating pombe, or holcus-beer,--a practice -readily imitated by their visitors. Bhang and the datura plant, growing -wild, add to the attractions of the spot. The Bhang is a fine large -species of the Cannabis Indica, the bang of Persia, the bhang of India, -and the benj of Arabia, the fasukh of northern, and the dakha of -southern Africa. In the low lands of East Africa it grows before every -cottage door. As in hot climates generally, the fibre degenerates, and -the plant is only valued for its narcotic properties. The Arabs smoke -the sun-dried leaf with, and the Africans without tobacco, in huge -waterpipes, whose bowls contain a quarter of a pound. Both ignore the -more luxurious preparations, momiya and hashish, ganja and sebzi, charas -and maajun. Like the “jangli” or jungle (wild)-bhang of Sindh, affected -by kalandars, fakirs, and other holy beggars, this variety, contracting -the muscle of the throat, produces a violent whooping-cough, ending in a -kind of scream, after a few long puffs, when the smoke is inhaled; and -if one man sets the example the others are sure to follow. These -grotesque sounds are probably not wholly natural; even the boys may be -heard practising them; they appear to be a fashion of “renowning it”; in -fact, an announcement to the public that the fast youths are smoking -bhang. The Datura stramonium, called by the Arabs and by the Wasawahili -“muranhá,” grows in the well-watered plains; it bears a large whitish -flower and a thorn-apple, like that of India. The heathen, as well as -their visitors, dry the leaves, the flowers, and the rind of the -rootlet, which is considered the strongest preparation, and smoke them -in a common bowl or in a water-pipe. This is held to be a sovereign -remedy against zik el nafas (asthma) and influenza; it diminishes the -cough by loosening the phlegm. The Washenzi never make that horrible use -of the plant known to the Indian dhaturiya, or datura-poisoners: many -accidents, however, occur from ignorance of its violent narcotism. Meat -is scarce: the only cattle are those driven down by the Wanyamwezi to -the coast; milk, butter, and ghee are consequently unprocurable. A sheep -or a goat will not cost less than a shukkah, or four cubits of -domestics, here worth twenty-five cents. The same will purchase only two -fowls; and eggs and fruit--chiefly papaws and plantains, cocos and -limes--are at fancy prices. For the shukkah eight rations of unhusked -holcus, four measures of rice--which must here be laid in by those -travelling up-country--and five cakes of tobacco, equal to about three -pounds, are generally procurable. Thus the daily expenditure of a large -caravan ranges from one dollar to one dollar fifty cents’ worth of cloth -in the Zanzibar market. The value, however, fluctuates greatly, and the -people will shirk selling even at any price. - -The same attractions which draw caravans to Zungomero render it the -great rendezvous of an army of touters, who, whilst watching for the -arrival of the ivory traders, amuse themselves with plundering the -country. The plague has now spread like a flight of locusts over the -land. The Wak’hutu, a timid race, who, unlike the Wazaramo, have no -sultan to gather round, are being gradually ousted from their ancient -seats. In a large village there will seldom be more than three or four -families, who occupy the most miserable hovels, all the best having been -seized by the touters or pulled down for firewood. These men--slaves, -escaped criminals, and freemen of broken fortunes, flying from misery, -punishment, or death on the coast--are armed with muskets and sabres, -bows and spears, daggers and knobsticks. They carry ammunition, and thus -are too strong for the country people. When rough language and threats -fail, the levelled barrel at once establishes the right to a man’s house -and property, to his wife and children. If money runs short, a village -is fired by night, and the people are sold off to the first caravan. In -some parts the pattering of musketry is incessant, as it ever was in the -turbulent states of Independent India. It is rarely necessary to have -recourse to violence, the Wak’hutu, believing their tyrants to be -emissaries, as they represent themselves, from His Highness the Sultan, -and the chief nobles of Zanzibar, offer none but the most passive -resistance, hiding their families and herds in the bush. Thus it happens -that towards the end of the year nothing but a little grain can be -purchased in a land of marvellous fertility. - -As has been mentioned, these malpractices are severely reprobated by His -Highness the Sultan, and when the evil passes a certain point remedial -measures are taken. A Banyan, for instance, is sent to the coast with -warnings to the Diwans concerned. But what care they for his empty -words, when they know that he has probably equipped a similar party of -black buccaneers himself? and what hope can there be of reform when -there is not an honest man in the country to carry it out? Thus the -Government of Zanzibar is rendered powerless;--improvement can be -expected only from the hand of Time. The Wak’hutu, indeed, often -threaten a deputation to entreat the Arab Sultan for protection in the -shape of a garrison of Baloch. This measure has been retarded for sound -reasons: no man dares to leave his house for fear of finding it a ruin -on his return; moreover, he would certainly be shot if the touters -guessed his intention, and, even if he escaped this danger, he would -probably be sold, on the way to the coast, by his truculent neighbours -the Wazaramo. Finally, if they succeeded in their wishes, would not a -Baloch garrison act the part of the man who, in the fable, was called in -to assist the horse against the stag? The Arabs, who know the temper of -these mercenaries, are too wise ever to sanction such a “dragonnade.” - -The reader will readily perceive that he is upon the slave-path, so -different from travel amongst the free and independent tribes of -Southern Africa. The traffic practically annihilates every better -feeling of human nature. Yet, though the state of the Wak’hutu appears -pitiable, the traveller cannot practise pity: he is ever in the dilemma -of maltreating or being maltreated. Were he to deal civilly and -liberally with this people he would starve: it is vain to offer a price -for even the necessaries of life; it would certainly be refused because -more is wanted, and so on beyond the bounds of possibility. Thus, if the -touter did not seize a house, he would never be allowed to take shelter -in it from the storm; if he did not enforce a “corvée,” he must labour -beyond his strength with his own hands; and if he did not fire a village -and sell the villagers, he might die of hunger in the midst of plenty. -Such in this province are the action and reaction of the evil. - -[Illustration: Party of Wak’hutu Women.] - - - - -CHAP. IV. - -ON THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE FIRST REGION. - - -Before bidding adieu to the Maritime Region, it will be expedient to -enter into a few details concerning its geography and ethnology.[7] - - [7] Those who consider the subject worthy of further consideration are - referred, for an ampler account of it, to the Journal of the R. - Geographical Society, vol. xxix. of 1860. - -The first or maritime region extends from the shores of the Indian Ocean -in E. long. 39° to the mountain-chain forming the land of Usagara in E. -long. 37° 28′; its breadth is therefore 92 geographical miles, measured -in rectilinear distance, and its mean length, bounded by the waters of -the Kingani and the Rufiji rivers, may be assumed at 110. The average -rise is under 4 feet per mile. It is divided into two basins; that of -the Kingani easterly, and westward that of the Mgeta stream with its -many tributaries; the former, which is the principal, is called the land -of Uzaramo; the latter, which is of the second order, contains the -provinces of K’hutu, by the Arabs pronounced Kutu, and Uziraha, a minor -district. The natives of the country divide it into the three lowlands -of Tunda, Dut’humi, and Zungomero. - -The present road runs with few and unimportant deviations along the -whole length of the fluviatile valleys of the Kingani and the Mgeta. -Native caravans if lightly laden generally accomplish the march in a -fortnight, one halt included. On both sides of this line, whose greatest -height above the sea-level was found by B. P. therm. to be 330 feet, -rises the rolling ground, which is the general character of the country. -Its undulations present no eminences worthy of notice; near the sea they -are short and steep, further inland they roll in longer waves, and -everywhere they are covered with abundant and luxuriant vegetation, the -result of decomposition upon the richest soil. In parts there is an -appearance of park land; bushless and scattered forests, with grass -rising almost to the lower branches of the smaller thorns; here and -there clumps and patches of impassable shrubbery cluster round knots and -knolls of majestic and thickly foliaged trees. The narrow footpaths -connecting the villages often plunge into dark and dense tunnels formed -by overarching branch and bough, which delay the file of laden porters; -the mud lingering long after a fall of rain in these low grounds fills -them with a chilly clammy atmosphere. Merchants traverse such spots with -trembling; in these, the proper places for ambuscade, a few determined -men easily plunder a caravan by opposing it in front or by an attack in -rear. The ways are often intersected by deep nullahs and water-courses, -dry during the hot season, but unfordable when rain falls. In the many -clearings, tobacco, maize, holcus, sesamum, and ground-nuts, manioc, -beans, pulse, and sweet potatoes flourish; the pine-apple is a weed, and -a few cocos and mangoes, papaws, jack-fruit, plantains, and limes are -scattered over the districts near the sea. Rice grows abundantly in the -lower levels. The villages are hidden deep in the bush or grass: the -crowing of the cocks heard all along the road, except in the greater -stretches of wilderness, proves them to be numerous; they are, however -small and thinly populated. The versant, as usual in maritime E. Africa, -trends towards the Indian Ocean. Water abounds even at a distance from -the rivers; it springs from the soil in diminutive runnels and lies in -“shimo” or pits, varying from surface-depth to 10 feet. The -monsoon-rains, which are heavy, commence in March, about a month earlier -than in Zanzibar, and the duration is similar. The climate of the higher -lands is somewhat superior to that of the valley, but it is still hot -and oppressive. The formation, after passing from the corallines, the -limestones, the calcareous tuffs, and the rude gravelly conglomerates of -the coast, is purely primitive and sandstone: erratic blocks of fine -black hornblende and hornblendic rock, used by the people as whetstones -and grinding-slabs, abound in the river-beds, which also supply the clay -used for pottery. The subsoil is near the sea a stiff blue loam, in the -interior a ruddy quartzose gravel; the soil is a rich brown or black -humus, here and there coated with, or varied by, clean white sand, and -in some parts are seams of reddish loam. Fresh-water shells are -scattered over the surface, and land-crabs burrow in the looser earths -where stone seldom appears. Black cattle are unknown in the maritime -region, but poultry, sheep, and goats are plentiful: near the jungle -they are protected from the leopards or ounces by large wooden huts, -like cages, raised on piles for cleanliness. - -As a rule, the fluviatile valleys resemble in most points the physical -features of the coast and island of Zanzibar: the general aspect of the -country, however--the expression of its climate--undergoes some -modifications. Near the sea, the basin is a broad winding line, -traversed by the serpentine river, whose bed is now too deep for change. -About the middle expanse stony ridges and rocky hills crop out from the -rolling ground, and the head of the valley is a low continuous plain. In -many places, especially near the estuary, river-terraces, like road -embankments, here converging, there diverging, indicate by lines and -strews of water-worn pebbles and sea-shells the secular uprise of the -country and the declension of the stream to its present level. These -raised seabeaches at a distance appear crowned with dwarf rounded cones -which, overgrown with lofty trees, are favourite sites for settlements. -In the lower lands the jungle and the cultivation are of the rankest and -most gigantic description, the effect of a damp, hot region, where -atmospheric pressure is excessive. The grass, especially that produced -by the black soils in the swamps and marshes, rises to the height of -12-13 feet, and serves to conceal runaway slaves and malefactors: the -stalks vary in thickness from a goose-quill to a man’s finger. The -larger growths, which are so closely planted that they conceal the soil, -cannot be traversed without paths, and even where these exist the -traveller must fight his way through a dense screen, receiving from time -to time a severe blow when the reeds recoil, or a painful thrust from -some broken and inclined stump. Even the horny sole of the sandal-less -African cannot tread these places without being cut or staked, and -everywhere a ride through these grass-avenues whilst still dripping with -the cold exhalations of night, with the sun beating fiercely upon the -upper part of the body, is a severe infliction to any man not in perfect -health. The beds of streams and nullahs are sometimes veiled by the -growth of the banks. These crops spring up with the rains, and are -burned down by hunters, or more frequently by accident, after about a -month of dry weather; in the interim fires are dangerous: the custom is -to beat down the blaze with leafy boughs. Such is the variety of species -that in some parts of the river-valleys each day introduces the -traveller to a grass before unseen. Where the inundations lie long, the -trees are rare, and those that exist are slightly raised by mounds above -the ground to escape the destructive effects of protracted submergence: -in these places the decomposed vegetation exhales a fetid odour. Where -the waters soon subside there are clumps of tall shrubbery and seams of -forest rising on extensive meadows of grassy land, which give it the -semblance of a suite of natural parks or pleasure-grounds, and the -effect is not diminished by the frequent herds of gnu and antelope -prancing and pacing over their pastures. - -The climate is hot and oppressive, and the daily sea-breeze, which -extends to the head of the Mgeta valley, is lost in the lower levels. -About Zungomero rain is constant, except for a single fortnight in the -month of January; it seems to the stranger as if the crops must -infallibly decay, but they do not. At most times the sun, even at its -greatest northern declination, shines through a veil of mist with a -sickly blaze and a blistering heat, and the overcharge of electricity is -evidenced by frequent and violent thunder-storms. In the western parts -cold and cutting breezes descend from the rugged crags of Dut’humi. - -The principal diseases of the valley are severe ulcerations and fevers, -generally of a tertian type. The “Mkunguru” begins with coldness in the -toes and finger-tips; a frigid shiver seems to creep up the legs, -followed by pains in the shoulders, severe frontal headache, hot eyes, -and a prostration and irritability of mind and body. This preliminary -lasts for one to three hours, when nausea ushers in the hot stage: the -head burns, the action of the heart becomes violent, thirst rages, and a -painful weight presses upon the eyeballs: it is often accompanied by a -violent cough and irritation. Strange visions, as in delirium, appear to -the patient, and the excitement of the brain is proved by unusual -loquacity. When the fit passes off with copious perspiration the head is -often affected, the ears buzz, and the limbs are weak. If the patient -attempts to rise suddenly, he feels a dizziness, produced apparently by -a gush of bile along the liver duct: want of appetite, sleeplessness and -despondency, and a low fever, evidenced by hot pulses, throbbing -temples, and feet painfully swollen, with eruptions of various kinds, -and ulcerated mouth, usher in the cure. This fever yields easily to mild -remedies, but it is capable of lasting three weeks. - -A multitude of roads, whose point of departure is the coast, form a -triangle and converge at the “Makutaniro,” or junction-place, in Central -Uzaramo. The route whose several stations have been described is one of -the main lines running from Kaole and Bagamoyo, in a general southwest -direction, till it falls into the great trunk road which leads directly -west from Mbuamaji. It is divided into thirteen caravan stages, but a -well-girt walker will accomplish the distance in a week. - -No apology is offered for the lengthiness of the ethnographical -descriptions contained in the following pages. The ethnology of Africa -is indeed its most interesting, if not its only interesting feature. -Everything connected with the habits and customs, the moral and -religious, the social and commercial state of these new races, is worthy -of diligent observation, careful description, and minute illustration. -There is indeed little in the physical features of this portion of the -great peninsula to excite the attention of the reader beyond the -satisfaction that ever accompanies the victory of truth over fable, and -a certain importance which in these “travelling times,”--when man -appears rapidly rising to the rank of a migratory animal,--must attach -to discovery. The subject, indeed, mostly banishes ornament. Lying under -the same parallels with a climate whose thermical variations know no -extremes, the succession of alluvial valley, ghaut, table-land, and -shelving plain is necessarily monotonous, the soil is the same, the -productions are similar, and the rocks and trees resemble one another. -Eastern and central inter-tropical Africa also lacks antiquarian and -historic interest, it has few traditions, no annals, and no ruins, the -hoary remnants of past splendour so dear to the traveller and to the -reader of travels. It contains not a single useful or ornamental work, a -canal or a dam is, and has ever been, beyond the narrow bounds of its -civilisation. It wants even the scenes of barbaric pomp and savage -grandeur with which the student of occidental Africa is familiar. But -its ethnography has novelties: it exposes strange manners and customs, -its Fetichism is in itself a wonder, its commerce deserves attention, -and its social state is full of mournful interest. The fastidiousness of -the age, however, forbidding ampler details, even under the veil of the -“learned languages,” cripples the physiologist, and robs the subject of -its principal peculiarities. I have often regretted that if Greek and -dog-Latin be no longer a sufficient disguise for the facts of natural -history, human and bestial, the learned have not favoured us with a -system of symbols which might do away with the grossness of words. - -The present tenants of the First Region are the Wazaramo, the Wak’hutu, -and their great sub-tribe, the Waziraha; these form the staple of -population,--the Wadoe and the Wazegura being minor and immigrant -tribes. - -The Wazaramo are no exception to the rule of barbarian maritime races: -they have, like the Somal, the Gallas, the Wangindo, the Wamakua, and -the Cape Kafirs, come into contact with a civilisation sufficiently -powerful to corrupt without subjugating them; and though cultivators of -the ground, they are more dreaded by caravans than any tribe from the -coast to the Lake Region. They are bounded eastward by the thin line of -Moslems in the maritime regions, westward by the Wak’hutu, northward by -the Kingani River, and on the south by the tribes of the Rufiji. The -Wazaramo, or, as they often pronounce their own name, Wazalamo, claim -connection with the semi-nomade Wakamba, who have, within the last few -years, migrated to the north-west of Mombasah. Their dialect, however, -proves them to be congeners of the Wak’hutu, and distinct from the -Wakamba. As in East Africa generally, it is impossible to form the -remotest idea of the number of families, or of the total of population. -The Wazaramo number many sub-tribes, the principal of which are the -Wákámbá and the Wáp’hangárá. - -These negroids are able-bodied men, tall and straight, compared with the -Coast-clans, but they are inferior in development to most of the inner -tribes. The complexion, as usual, varies greatly. The chiefs are often -coal-black, and but few are of light colour. This arises from the -country being a slave-importer rather than exporter; and here, as among -the Arabs, black skins are greatly preferred. The Mzaramo never -circumcises, except when becoming a “Mháji,” or Moslem convert; nor does -this tribe generally tattoo, though some adorn the face with three long -cicatrized cuts, like the Mashali of Mecca, extending down each cheek -from the ear-lobes to the corners of the mouth. Their distinctive mark -is the peculiarity of dressing their hair. The thick wool is plastered -over with a cap-like coating of ochreish and micaceous clay, brought -from the hills, and mixed to the consistency of honey with the oil of -the sesamum or the castor-bean. The pomatum, before drying, is pulled -out with the fingers to the ends of many little twists, which circle the -head horizontally, and the mass is separated into a single or a double -line of knobs, the upper being above, and the lower below, the ears, -both look stiff and matted, as if affected with a bad plica polonica. -The contrast between these garlands of small red dilberries and the -glossy black skin is, however, effective. The clay, when dry, is washed -out with great trouble by means of warm water--soap has yet to be -invented--and by persevering combing with the fingers. Women wear the -hair-thatch like men; there are, however, several styles. It is usually -parted in the centre, from the crinal front-line to the nape of the -neck, and allowed to grow in a single or double dense thatch, ridging -the head breadthwise from ear to ear: this is coloured or not coloured, -according to the wearer’s taste. Some of the Wazaramo, again, train -lumps of their wool to rise above the region of cautiousness, and very -exactly simulate bears’ ears. The face is usually lozenge-shaped, the -eyes are somewhat oblique, the nose is flat and patulated, the lips -tumid and everted, the jaw prognathous, and the beard, except in a few -individuals, is scanty. The sebaceous odour of the skin amongst all -these races is overpowering: emitted with the greatest effect during and -after excitement either of mind or body, it connects the negroid with -the negro and separates him from the Somal, the Galla, and the Malagash. -The expression of countenance is wild and staring, the features are -coarse and harsh, the gait is loose and lounging; the Arab strut and the -Indian swagger are unknown in East Africa. The Wazaramo tribe is rich in -albinos; three were seen by the Expedition in the course of a single -day. They much resemble Europeans of the leucous complexion; the face is -quite bald; the skin is rough, and easily wrinkles in long lines, marked -by a deeper pink; the hair is short, sharp-curling, and coloured like a -silk-worm’s cocoon, and the lips are red. The eyes have grey pupils and -rosy “whites:” they appear very sensitive to light, and are puckered up -so as to distort the countenance. The features are unusually plain, and -the stature appears to range below the average. The people who have no -prejudice against them, call these leucœthiops Wazungu, “white men.” - -The Wazaramo tribe is wealthy enough to dress well: almost every man can -afford a shukkah or loin-cloth of unbleached cotton, which he stains a -dirty yellow, like the Indian gerua, with a clay dug in the subsoil. -Their ornaments are extensive girdles and bead necklaces of various -colours, white disks, made from the base of a sea-shell, and worn single -on the forehead or in pairs at the neck. A massy ring of brass or zinc -encircles the wrist. The decoration peculiar to the tribe, and common to -both sexes, is the mgoweko, a tight collar or cravat, 1 to 1·50 inches -broad, of red and yellow, white and black beads, with cross-bars of -different colours at short intervals. Men never appear in public without -an ostentatious display of arms. The usual weapons, when they cannot -procure muskets, are spears, bows, and arrows, the latter poisoned, and -sime, or long knives like the Somali daggers, made by themselves with -imported iron. The chiefs are generally seen in handsome attire; -embroidered Surat caps bound with a tight snowy turban of a true African -shape, which contrasts well with black skins and the short double-peaked -beards below. The body-garment is a loin-cloth of showy Indian cotton or -Arab check; some prefer the long shirt and the kizbao or waistcoat -affected by the slaves at Zanzibar. The women are well dressed as the -men--a circumstance rare in East Africa. Many of them have the tibia -bowed in front by bearing heavy water-pots at too early an age; when not -burdened they have a curious mincing gate, they never veil their faces, -and they show no shame in the presence of strangers. The child is -carried in a cloth at the back. - -The habitations of the Wazaramo are far superior in shape and size to -those of K’hutu, and, indeed, to any on this side of Unyamwezi. Their -buildings generally resemble the humbler sort of English cow-house, or -an Anglo-Indian bungalow. In poorer houses the outer walls are of holcus -canes, rudely puddled; the better description are built of long and -broad sheets of Myombo and Mkora bark, propped against strong uprights -inside, and bound horizontally by split bamboos tied outside with -fibrous cord. The heavy pent-shaped roof often provided with a double -thatch of grass and reeds, projects eaves, which are high enough to -admit a man without stooping; these are supported by a long cross bar -resting on perpendiculars, tree-trunks, barked and smoothed, forked -above, and firmly planted in the ground. Along the outer marginal length -of this verandah lies a border of large logs polished by long sittings. -The interior is dark and windowless, and party-walls of stiff grass-cane -divide it into several compartments. The list of furniture comprises a -dwarf cartel about 4 feet long by 16 inches broad, upon which even the -married couple manages to make itself comfortable; a stool cut out of a -single block, a huge wooden mortar, mtungi or black earthen pots, -gourds, ladles of cocoa-nut, cast-off clothes, whetstones, weapons, -nets, and in some places creels for fishing. Grain is ground upon an -inclined slab of fine-grained granite or syenite, sometimes loose, at -other times fixed in the ground with a mud plaster; the classical -Eastern handmill is unknown in this part of Africa. The inner roof and -its rafters, shining with a greasy soot, in wet weather admit drenching -lines of leakage, and the only artifice applied to the flooring is the -tread of the proprietors. The door is a close hurdle of parallel -holcus-straw bound to five or six cross-bars with strips of bark. In a -village there will be from four to twelve “bungalows;” the rest are the -normal haycock and beehive hut of Africa. Where enemies are numerous the -settlements are palisaded; each has, moreover, but a single entrance, -which is approached by a narrow alley of strong stockade, and is guarded -by a thick planking that fits into a doorway large enough to admit -cattle. - -The Wazaramo are an ill-conditioned, noisy, boisterous violent, and -impracticable race. A few years ago they were the principal obstacle to -Arab and other travellers entering into East Africa. But the seizure of -Kaole and other settlements by the late Sayyid of Zanzibar has now given -strangers a footing in the land. After tasting the sweets of gain, they -have somewhat relented; but quarrels between them and the caravans are -still frequent. The P’házi, or chief of the district, demands a certain -amount of cloth for free passage from all merchants on their way to the -interior; from those returning he takes cattle, jembe, or iron hoes, -shokah or hatchets, in fact, whatever he can obtain. If not contented, -his clansmen lie in ambush and discharge a few poisoned arrows at the -trespassers: they never have attempted, like the Wagogo, to annihilate a -caravan; in fact, the loss of one of their number causes a general -panic. They have hitherto successfully resisted the little armies of -touters that have almost desolated K’hutu, and they are frequently in -hostilities with the coast settlements. The young men sometimes set out -on secret plundering expeditions to Bagamoyo and Mbuamaji, and enter the -houses at night by mining under the walls. The burghers attempt to -defeat them by burying stones and large logs as a foundation, but in -vain: their superior dexterity has originated a superstitious notion -that they possess a peculiar “medicine,” a magic spell called “Ugumba,” -which throws the household into a deep trance. When a thief is caught -_in flagrante delicto_, his head soon adorns a tall pole at the entrance -of the settlement: it is not uncommon to see half a dozen bloody or -bleached fragments of humanity collected in a single spot. When disposed -to be friendly the Wazaramo will act as porters to Arabs, but if a man -die his load is at once confiscated by his relatives, who, however, -insist upon receiving his blood-money, as if he had been slain in -battle. Their behaviour to caravans in their own country depends upon -the strangers’ strength; many trading bodies therefore unite into one -before beginning the transit, and even then they are never without fear. - -The Wazaramo chiefs are powerful only when their wealth or personal -qualities win the respect of their unruly republican subjects. There are -no less than five orders in this hereditary master-class. The P’hazi is -the headman of the village, and the Mwene Goha is his principal -councillor; under these are three ranks of elders, the Kinyongoni, the -Chúmá, and the Káwámbwá. The headman, unless exceptionally influential, -must divide amongst his “ministry” the blackmail extorted from -travellers. The P’hazi usually fills a small village with his wives and -families; he has also large estates, and he personally superintends the -labour of his slave-gangs. He cannot sell his subjects except for two -offences--Ugoni or adultery, and Ucháwe or black magic. The latter crime -is usually punished by the stake; in some parts of the country the -roadside shows at every few miles a heap or two of ashes with a few -calcined and blackened human bones mixed with bits of half-consumed -charcoal, telling the tragedy that has been enacted there. The prospect -cannot be contemplated without horror; here and there, close to the -larger circles where the father and mother have been burnt, a smaller -heap shows that some wretched child has shared their terrible fate, lest -growing up he should follow in his parents’ path. The power of -conviction is wholly in the hands of the Mgángá or medicine-man, who -administers an ordeal called Bága or Kyápo by boiling water. If the hand -after being dipped show any sign of lesion, the offence is proven, and -the sentence is instantly carried into execution. - -Instinctively conscious of their moral wants, the Washenzi throughout -this portion of East Africa have organised certain customs which have -grown to laws. The first is the Sáre or brother oath. Like the “manred” -of Scotland, the “munh bola bhai” of India, and similar fraternal -institutions amongst most of the ancient tribes of barbarians in whom -sociability is a passion, it tends to reconcile separate interests -between man and man, to modify the feuds and discords of savage society, -and, principally, to strengthen those that need an alliance. In fact, it -is a contrivance for choosing relations instead of allowing Nature to -force them upon man, and the flimsiness of the tie between brothers born -in polygamy has doubtless tended to perpetuate it. The ceremony, which -is confined to adults of the male sex, is differently performed in the -different tribes. Amongst the Wazaramo, the Wazegura, and the Wasagara, -the two “brothers” sit on a hide face to face, with legs outstretched to -the front and overlapping one another; their bows and arrows are placed -across their thighs, whilst a third person, waving a sword over their -heads, vociferates curses against any one that may “break the -brotherhood.” A sheep is then slaughtered, and its flesh, or more often -its heart, is brought roasted to the pair, who, having made with a -dagger incisions in each other’s breasts close to the pit of the -stomach, eat a piece of meat smeared with the blood. Among the -Wanyamwezi and the Wajiji the cut is made below the left ribs or above -the knee; each man receives in a leaf his brother’s blood, which, mixed -with oil or butter, he rubs into his own wound. An exchange of small -presents generally concludes the rite. It is a strong tie, as all men -believe that death or slavery would follow its infraction. The Arabs, to -whom the tasting of blood is unlawful, usually perform it by proxy. The -slave “Fundi,” or fattori, of the caravans become brothers, even with -the Washenzi, whenever they expect an opportunity of utilising the -relationship. - -The second custom is more peculiar. The East African dares not -appropriate an article found upon the road, especially if he suspect -that it belongs to a fellow tribeman. He believes that a “Kigámbo,” an -unexpected calamity, slavery or death, would follow the breach of this -custom. At Zungomero a watch, belonging to the Expedition, was picked up -by the country people in the jungle, and was punctually returned, well -wrapped round with grass and leaves. But subsequent experience makes the -traveller regret that the superstition is not of a somewhat more -catholic and comprehensive character. - -The religion of the East African will be treated of in a future page. -The Wazaramo, like their congeners, are as little troubled with ceremony -as with belief. In things spiritual as in things temporal they listen to -but one voice, that of “Ádá,” or custom. The most offensive scoffer or -sceptic in Europe is not regarded with more abomination than the man who -in these lands would attempt to touch a jot or tittle of Ádá. - -There are no ceremonies on birth-occasions and no purification of women -amongst these people. In the case of abortion or of a still-born child -they say, “he hath returned,” that is to say, to home in earth. When the -mother perishes in childbirth, the parents claim a certain sum from “the -man that killed their daughter.” Neither on the continent nor at -Zanzibar do they bind with cloth the head of the new-born babe. Twins, -here called Wápáchá, and by the Arabs of Zanzibar, Shukúl (شكول) are -usually sold or exposed in the jungle as amongst the Ibos of West -Africa. If the child die, an animal is killed for a general feast, and -in some tribes the mother does a kind of penance. Seated outside the -village, she is smeared, with fat and flour, and exposed to the derision -of people who surround her, hooting and mocking with offensive jests and -gestures. To guard against this calamity, the Wazaramo and other tribes -are in the habit of vowing that the babe shall not be shaved till -manhood, and the mother wears a number of talismans, bits of wood tied, -with a thong of snake’s skin, round her neck, and beads of different -shapes round her head. When carrying her offspring, which she rarely -leaves alone, she bears in her hand what is technically called a -kirangozi, a “guide” or “guardian,” in the form of two sticks a few -inches in length, bound with bands of particoloured beads. This article, -made up by the Mgángá or medicine-man, is placed at night under the -child’s head, and is carried about till it has passed the first stage of -life. The kirangozi is intended to guard the treasure against the -malevolent spirits of the dead; that almost universal superstition, the -Evil Eye, though an article of faith amongst the Arabs, the Wasawahili, -and the Wamrima, is unknown to the inner heathen. - -A name is given to the child without other celebration than a debauch -with pombe: this will sometimes occur at the birth of a male, when he is -wanted. The East Africans, having few national prejudices, are fond of -calling their children after Arabs and other strangers: they will even -pay a sheep for the loan of a merchant’s name. There must be many -hundred Sayyid Saids and Sayyid Majids now in the country; and as during -the eighteen months’ peregrination of the East African Expedition every -child born on and near the great trunk-line was called Muzungu--the -“white”--the Englishman has also left his mark in the land. The period -of ablactation, as in South Africa, is prolonged to the second or third -year: may this account, in part, for the healthiness of the young and -the almost total absence of debility and deformity? Indeed, the nearest -approach to the latter is the unsightly protrusion of the umbilical -region, sometimes to the extent of several inches, owing to ignorance of -proper treatment; but, though conspicuous in childhood, it disappears -after puberty. Women retain the power of suckling their children to a -late age, even when they appear withered grandames. Until the child can -walk without danger, it is carried by the mother, not on the hip, as in -Asia, but on the bare back for warmth, a sheet or skin being passed over -it and fastened at the parent’s breast. Even in infancy it clings like a -young simiad, and the peculiar formation of the African race renders the -position easier by providing a kind of seat upon which it subsides; the -only part of the body exposed to view is the little coco-nut head, with -the small, round, beady black eyes in a state of everlasting stare. -Finally, the “kigogo,” or child who cuts the two upper incisors before -the lower, is either put to death, or is given away or sold to the -slave-merchant, under the impression that it will bring disease, -calamity, and death into the household. The Wasawahili and the Zanzibar -Arabs have the same impressions: the former kill the child; the latter, -after a Khitmah or perlection of the Koran, make it swear, by nodding -its head if unable to articulate, that it will not injure those about -it. Even in Europe, it may be remembered, the old prejudice against -children born with teeth is not wholly forgotten. - -Amongst the Wazaramo there is no limitation to the number of wives, -except the expense of wedding and the difficulty of supporting a large -establishment. Divorce is signified by presenting to the wife a piece of -holcus-cane: if a sensible woman she at once leaves the house, and, if -not, she is forced to leave. There is no more romance in the affair even -before marriage than in buying a goat. The marriageable youth sends a -friend to propose to the father: if the latter consents, his first step -is, not to consult his daughter--such a proceeding would be deemed the -act of a madman--but to secure for himself as many cloths as possible, -from six to twelve, or even more, besides a preliminary present which -goes by the name of kiremba (kilemba), his “turban.” This, however, is a -kind of settlement which is demanded back if the wife die without issue; -but if she bear children, it is preserved for them by their -grand-parents. After the father the mother puts in her claim in behalf -of the daughter; she requires a kondáví, or broad parti-coloured band of -beads worn round the waist and next the skin; her mukájyá or loin-cloth, -and her wereko, or sheet in which the child is borne upon the back. In -the interior the settlement is made in live-stock, varying from a few -goats to a dozen cows. This weighty point duly determined, the husband -leads his wife to his own home, an event celebrated by drumming, -dancing, and extensive drunkenness. The children born in wedlock belong -to the father. - -When a man or a woman is at the point of death, the friends assemble, -and the softer sex sometimes sings, howls, and weeps: the departing is -allowed to depart life upon the kitanda, or cartel. There is, however, -little demonstrative sorrow amongst these people, and, having the utmost -dread of disembodied spirits, all are anxious to get rid of the corpse -and its appertainings. The Wazaramo, more civilised than their -neighbours, bury their dead stretched out and in the dress worn during -life: their graves have already been described. - -The “industry” of Usaramo will occupy but few sentences. Before the -great rains of the year set in the land must be weeded, and scratches -must be made with a hoe for the reception of seed. The wet season -ushers in the period for copal digging: the proceeds are either -sold to travelling traders, or are carried down to the coast in -mákándá--mat-sacks--of light weight, and are sold to the Banyans. -Bargaining and huckstering, cheapening and chaffering, are ever the -African’s highest intellectual enjoyments, and he does not fail to -stretch them to their utmost limits. After the autumnal rains during the -Azyab, or the north-east monsoon, the grass is fired, when the men -seizing their bows, arrows, and spears, indiscriminately slaughter beast -and bird--an operation which, yearly repeated, accounts in part for the -scarcity of animal life so remarkable in this animal’s paradise. When -all trades fail, the Mzaramo repairs to the coast, where, despite his -bad name, he usually finds employment as a labourer. - -Next in order to the maritime Wazaramo are the Wak’hutu, to whom many of -the observations upon the subject of their more powerful neighbours -equally apply. Their territory extends from the Mgeta River to the -mountains of Usagara, and in breadth from the Dut’humi Highlands to the -Rufiji River. - -The Wak’hutu are physically and, apparently, mentally a race inferior to -the Wazaramo; they are very dark, and bear other marks of a degradation -effected by pernicious climatory conditions. They have no peculiar -tattoo, although individuals raise complicated patterns in small -cicatrices upon their breasts. The popular head-dress is the -clay-coating of the Wazaramo, of somewhat modified dimensions; and some -of them, who are possibly derived from the Wahiao and other southern -clans, have a practice--exceptional in these latitudes--of chipping -their incisors to sharp points, which imitate well enough the armature -of the reptilia. Their eyes are bleared and red with perpetual -intoxication, and they seem to have no amusements but dancing and -singing through half the night. None but the wealthier can afford to -wear cloth; the substitute is a kilt of the calabash fibre, attached by -a cord of the same material to the waist. In women it often narrows to a -span, and would be inadequate to the purposes of decency were it not -assisted by an underclothing of softened goatskin; this and a square of -leather upon the bosom, which, however, is often omitted, compose the -dress of the multitude. The ornaments are like those of the Wazaramo, -but by no means so numerous. The Wak’hutu live poorly, and, having no -ghee, are contented with the oil of the sesamum and the castor-bean with -their holcus porridge. The rivers supply them with the usual mud-fish; -at times they kill game. Their sheep, goats, and poultry they reserve -for barter on the coast; and, though bees swarm throughout the land, and -even enter the villages, they will not take the trouble to make hives. - -As on the Mrima, the proportion of chiefs to subjects seems to increase -in the inverse ratio of what is required. Every district in K’hutu has -its P’hazi or headman, with his minister the Mwene Goha, and inferior -chiefs, the Chándumé, the Muwinge, and the Mbárá. These men live chiefly -upon the produce of their fields, which they sell to caravans; they are -too abject and timid to insist upon the blackmail which has caused so -many skirmishes in Uzaramo; and the only use that they make of their -power is to tyrannise over their villages, and occasionally to organise -a little kidnapping. With the aid of slavery and black magic they render -their subjects’ lives as precarious as they well can: no one, especially -in old age, is safe from being burnt at a day’s notice. They are civil -to strangers, but wholly unable to mediate between them and the tribe. -The Wak’hutu have been used as porters; but they have proved so -treacherous, and so determined to desert, that no man will trust them in -a land where prepayment is the first condition of an agreement. Property -amongst them is insecure: a man has always a vested right in his -sister’s children; and when he dies his brothers and relations carefully -plunder his widow and orphans. - -The dirty, slovenly villages of the Wak’hutu are an index of the -character of the people. Unlike the comfortable cottages of the -coast, and the roomy abodes of the Wazaramo, the settlements of -the Wak’hutu are composed of a few straggling hovels of the humblest -description--with doors little higher than an English pigsty, and eaves -so low that a man cannot enter them except on all fours. In shape they -differ, some being simple cones, others like European haystacks, and -others like our old straw beehives. The common hut is a circle from 12 -to 25 feet in diameter; those belonging to the chiefs are sometimes of -considerable size, and the first part of the erection is a cylindrical -framework composed of tall stakes, or the rough trunks of young trees, -interwoven with parallel and concentric rings of flexible twigs and -withies, which are coated inside and outside with puddle of red or grey -clay. In some a second circle of wall is built round the inner cylinder, -thus forming one house within the other. The roof, subsequently added, -is of sticks and wattles, and the weight rests chiefly upon a central -tree. It has eaves-like projections, forming a narrow verandah, edged -with horizontal bars which rest upon forked uprights. Over the sticks -interwoven with the frame, thick grass or palm-fronds are thrown, and -the whole is covered with a coat of thatch tied on with strips of tree -bark. During the first few minutes of heavy rain, this roofing, shrunk -by the parching suns, admits water enough to patch the interior with -mud. The furniture of the cottages is like that of the Wazaramo; and the -few square feet which compose the area are divided by screens of wattle -into dark pigeon-holes, used as stores, kitchen, and sleeping-rooms. A -thick field of high grass is allowed to grow in the neighbourhood of -each village, to baffle pursuers in case of need; and some cottages are -provided with double doorways for easier flight. In the middle of the -settlement there is usually a tall tree, under which the men lounge upon -cots scarcely large enough for an English child; and where the slaves, -wrangling and laughing, husk their holcus in huge wooden mortars. These -villages can scarcely be called permanent: even the death of a chief -causes them to be abandoned, and in a few months long grass waves over -the circlets of charred stakes and straw. - -The only sub-tribe of the Wak’hutu which deserves notice is the -Waziráhá, who inhabit the low grounds below the Mabruki Pass, in the -first parallel of the Usagara Mountains. They are remarkable only for -having beards somewhat better developed than in the other Eastern races: -in sickly appearance they resemble their congeners. - -Remain for consideration the Wadoe and the Wazegura. The proper habitat -of the Wadoe is between the Watondwe or the tribes of Saadani, on the -littoral, and the Wak’hwere, near K’hutu, on the west; their northern -frontier is the land of the Wazegura, and their southern the Gama and -the Kingani Rivers. Their country, irrigated by the waters of the Gama, -is plentiful in grain, though wanting in cattle; they export to Zanzibar -sorghum and maize, with a little of the chakazi or unripe copal. - -The Wadoe once formed a powerful tribe, and were the terror of their -neighbours. Their force was first broken by the Wakamba, who, however, -so weakened themselves, that they were compelled to emigrate in mass -from the country, and have now fixed themselves in a region about 14 -marches to the north-west of Mombasah, which appears to have been -anciently called that of the Meremongao. During this struggle the Wadoe -either began or, what is more likely, renewed a practice which has made -their name terrible even in African ears. Fearing defeat from the -Wakamba, they proceeded, in presence of the foe, to roast and devour -slices from the bodies of the fallen. The manœuvre was successful; the -Wakamba could dare to die, but they could not face the idea of becoming -food. Presently, when the Wazegura had armed themselves with muskets, -and the people of Whinde had organised their large plundering -excursions, the Wadoe lost all power. About ten years ago Juma Mfumbi, -the late Diwan of Saadani, exacted tribute from them, and after his -death his sons succeeded to it. In 1857, broken by a famine of long -continuance, many Wadoe fled to the south of the Kingani River, and -obtained from the Wazaramo lands near Sagesera and Dege la Mhora. - -The Wadoe differ greatly in colour and in form. Some are tall, -well-made, and light-complexioned Negroids, others are almost black. -Their distinctive mark--in women as well as men--is a pair of long cuts -down both cheeks, from the temple to the jaw; they also frequently chip -away the two inner sides of the upper central incisors, leaving a small -chevron-shaped hole. This however is practised almost throughout the -country. They are wild in appearance, and dress in softened skins, -stained yellow with the bark and flowers (?) of the mimosa. Their arms -are a large hide-shield, spears, bows, and arrows, shokah or the little -battle-axe, the sime-knife, and the rungu or knobstick. They are said -still to drink out of human skulls, which are not polished or prepared -in any way for the purpose. The principal chief is termed Mweme: his -privy councillors are called Mákungá (?), and the elders M’áná Miráo -(?). The great headmen are buried almost naked, but retaining their -bead-ornaments, sitting in a shallow pit, so that the forefinger can -project above the ground. With each man are interred alive a male and a -female slave, the former holding a mundu or billhook wherewith to cut -fuel for his lord in the cold death-world, and the latter, who is seated -upon a little stool, supports his head in her lap. This custom has been -abolished by some of the tribes: according to the Arabs, a dog is now -buried in lieu of the slaves. The subdivisions of the Wadoe are numerous -and unimportant. - -The Wazegura, who do not inhabit this line of road, require some -allusion, in consequence of the conspicuous part which they have played -in the evil drama of African life. They occupy the lands south of the -Pangani River to the Cape of Utondwe, and they extend westward as far as -the hills of Nguru. Originally a peaceful tribe, they have been rendered -terrible by the possession of fire-arms; and their chiefs have now -collected large stores of gunpowder, used only to kidnap and capture the -weaker wretches within their reach. They thus supply the market of -Zanzibar with slaves, and this practice is not of yesterday. About -twenty years ago the Wazegura serfs upon the island, who had been -cheaply bought during a famine for a few measures of grain, rose against -their Arab masters, retired into the jungle, and, reinforced by -malefactors and malcontents, began a servile war, which raged with the -greatest fury for six months, when the governor, Ahmed bin Sayf, -maternal uncle to His Highness the late Sayyid Said, brought in a body -of mercenaries from Hazramaut, and broke the force of this Jacquerie by -setting a price upon their heads, and by giving the captives as prizes -to the captors. The exploits of Kisabengo, the Mzegura, have already -been alluded to. The Arab merchants of Unyanyembe declare that the road -will never be safe until that person’s head adorns a pole: they speak -with bitterness of heart, for he exacts an unconscionable “blackmail.” - -The Wazegura are in point of polity an exception to the rule of East -Africa: instead of owning hereditary sultans, they obey the loudest -tongue, the most open hand, and the sharpest spear. This tends -practically to cause a perpetual blood-feud, and to raise up a number of -petty chiefs, who, aspiring to higher positions, must distinguish -themselves by bloodshed, and must acquire wealth in weapons, especially -fire-arms, the great title to superiority, by slave-dealing. The only -occasion when they combine is an opportunity of successful attack upon -some unguarded neighbour. Briefly, the Wazegura have become an -irreclaimable race, and such they will remain until compelled to make a -livelihood by honest industry. - -[Illustration: EXPLORERS IN EAST AFRICA.] - - - - -CHAP. V. - -HALT AT ZUNGOMERO, AND FORMATION OF THE CARAVAN. - - -I halted to collect carriage and to await the arrival of the twenty-two -promised porters for about a fortnight at that hot-bed of pestilence, -Zungomero, where we nearly found “wet graves.” Our only lodging was -under the closed eaves of a hut built African-fashion, one abode within -the other. The roof was a sieve, the walls were systems of chinks, and -the floor was a sheet of mud. Outside the rain poured pertinaciously, as -if K’hutu had been situated in the “black north” of Hibernia; the -periodical S. and S.W. winds were raw and chilling, the gigantic -vegetation was sopped to decay, and the tangled bank of the Mgeta River, -lying within pistol-shot of our hovels, added its quotum of miasma. The -hardships of a march in inclement weather had taken effect upon the -Baloch guard: expecting everything to be done for them they endured -seven days of wet and wind before they could find energy to build a -shed, and they became almost mutinous because left to make shelter for -themselves. They stole the poultry of the villagers like gipsies, they -quarrelled violently with the slaves, they foully abused their temporal -superior, Said bin Salim, and three of the thirteen were accused of -grossly insulting the women of the Wak’hutu. The latter charge, after -due investigation, was “not proven:” we had resolved, in case of its -being brought home, severely to flog the culprits or to turn them out of -camp. - -On the 27th July, Sayf bin Salim returned to Dut’humi with his gang of -thirty slaves, who also had distinguished themselves by laying violent -hands on sheep, goats, and hens. Their patroon had offered to carry our -baggage half-way over the mountains to Ugogo, for a sum of sixty -dollars; thinking his conditions exorbitant, I stipulated for conveyance -the whole way. He refused, declaring that he was about to organise -another journey up-country. I doubted his assertion, as he was known to -have audaciously defrauded Musa Mzuri, an Indian merchant, who had -entrusted him with a large venture of ivory at Kazeh: yet he spoke -truth; nearly a year afterwards we met him on his march to the “Sea of -Ujiji.” During his visit he had begged for drugs, tea, coffee, sugar, -spices, everything, but the stores were already far wasted by the -improvidence of the Goanese, who seemed to think that they were living -in the vicinity of a bazar. To punish me for not engaging his gang, he -caused the desertion of nine porters hired at Dut’humi, by declaring -that I was bearing them into slavery. As they carried off, in addition -to half their pay, sundry sundries and Muinyi Wazira’s sword, I sent -three slave-musketeers to recover the stolen goods per force if -necessary. With respect to the cloth, Sayf bin Salim wrote back to say -that as I could well afford the loss of a few “domestics,” he would not -compel the fugitives to restore it: at the same time that he did himself -the honour to return the sword, which I might want. This man proved -himself the sole “base exception” to the hospitality and the -courteousness of the Omani Arabs. I forwarded an official complaint to -H. M. the Sayyid Majid, but the arm of Zanzibar has not yet reached -K’hutu. - -At Zungomero five fresh porters were engaged, making up the whole party -to a total of 132 souls. They were drafted into the men of Muinyi -Wazira, whose open indulgence in stingo had made his society at meals -distasteful to Moslem sticklers for propriety. He was an able -interpreter, speaking five African dialects, which is not, however, in -these lands a remarkable feat, and when sober, he did at first the work -of three men. But linguists are a dangerous race, as the annals of old -India prove:--I doubt a bilingual Eastern man, and if he can speak three -languages I do not doubt him at all. Moreover, true to his semi-servile -breed--his dam was a Mzaramo slave, and his sire a half-caste -Wawahili--he began well and he finished badly. His deep undying fondness -for pombe or holcus beer, kept him in alternate states of maudlin apathy -or of violent pugnacity. He had incurred heavy debts upon the coast. -After his arrival at Unyamwezi, letters were sent urging upon the Arabs -his instant arrest, but fortunately for him the bailiff and the jailor -are not, as the venerable saying declares the schoolmaster to be, -abroad. Muinyi Wazira, however, did not sight the Sea of Ujiji in my -service, and his five messmates, who each received 15 dollars’ worth of -cloth for the journey thither and back, were not more fortunate. - -Before marching from Zungomero into the mountains I will order, for the -reader’s inspection, a muster of the party, and enlist his sympathies in -behalf of the unhappy being who had to lead it. - -Said bin Salim may pass on: he has been described in Blackwood -(February, 1858) and he scarcely deserves a second notice. He is -followed by his four slaves, including the boy Faraj, who will presently -desert, and without including his acting wife, the lady Halimah. That -young person’s pug-dog countenance and bulky charms seem to engross -every thought not appropriated to himself. One day, however, my ears -detect the loud voice of wail proceeding from the lady Halimah, -accompanying methinks the vigorous performance of a stick; the -peccadillo was--but I eschew scandal and request the lady to advance. - -My companion’s gun carrier, Seedy Mubarak Bombay, a negro from Uhiao, -has twice been sketched in Blackwood (March, 1858 and September, 1859), -he also requires no further celebrity. My henchman, Muinyi Mabruki, had -been selected by his fellow-tribeman Bombay at Zanzibar; he was the -slave of an Arab Shaykh, who willingly let him for the sum of 5 dollars -per mensem. Mabruki is the type of the bull-headed negro, low-browed, -pig-eyed, pug-nosed, and provided by nature with that breadth and power, -that massiveness and muscularity of jaw, which characterise the most -voracious carnivors. He is at once the ugliest and the vainest of the -party: his attention to his toilette knows no limit. His temper is -execrable, ever in extremes, now wild with spirits, then dogged, -depressed, and surly, then fierce and violent. He is the most unhandy of -men, he spoils everything entrusted to him, and presently he will be -forbidden to engage in any pursuit beyond ass-leading and tent-pitching. -These worthies commenced well. They excited our admiration by braving -noon-day suns, and by snoring heavily through the rawest night with -nothing to warm them but a few smouldering embers. In an evil hour -compassion-touched, I threw over their shoulders a pair of English -blankets, which in the shortest time completely demoralised them. They -learned to lie a-bed o’ mornings, and when called up their shrugged -shoulders and shrinking forms were wrapped tightly round, lest the -breath of dawn should visit them too roughly. Idleness marked them for -her own: messmates and sworn brothers; they made at the halt huts out of -hail, lest they should be called to do work. As a rule, however, -Englishmen have the art of spoiling Eastern servants: we begin with the -utmost stretch of exertion, and we expect this high pressure system to -last. Of course the men’s energies are soon exhausted, their indolence -and apathy contrast with their former activity; we conceive dislikes to -them, and we end by dismissing them. This, however, was not the case -with Bombay and Mabruki. They returned with us to Zanzibar, and we -parted _à l’aimable_, especially with the former, who, after a somewhat -protracted fit of the “blue devils,” became once more, what he before -had been, a rara avis in the lands, an active servant and an honest man. - -Regard for the Indian perusers of these pages, who know by experience -how “banal” a character is the half-caste oriental Portuguese, prevents -my offering anything but a sketch of Valentine A. and Gaetano B. I had -hired them at Bombay for Co.’s rs. 20 per mensem, besides board and -lodging. Scions of that half Pariah race which yearly issues from Goa, -Daman and Diu to gather rupees as “cook boys,” dry-nurses, and -“buttrels,” in wealthy British India, the hybrids had their faults: a -pride of caste, and a contempt for Turks and heathen, heretics and -infidels, which often brought them to grief; a fondness for acting -triton amongst the minnows; a certain disregard for the seventh -commandment, in the matter of cloth and clothes, medicines and -provisions; a constitutional repugnance to “Signior Sooth;” a -wastefulness of other men’s goods, and a peculiar tenacity of their own; -a deficiency of bodily strength and constitutional vigour; a voracity -which induced indigestion once a day; and, finally, a habit of frequent -phlebotomy which, deferred, made them sick. They had also their merits. -Valentine was a good specimen of the neat-handed and ready-witted -Indian: in the shortest time he learned to talk Kisawahili sufficiently -for his own purposes, and to read a chronometer and thermometer -sufficiently for ours: he had, however, one blemish, an addiction to -“fudging,” which rendered the severest overseeing necessary. A “Davy do -a’ things,” he was as clever at sewing a coat as at cooking a curry. -Gaetano had a curious kind of tenderness when acting nurse, and, -wonderful to relate, an utter disregard for danger: he would return -alone through a night-march of jungle to fetch his forgotten keys, and -would throw himself into an excited mob of natives with a fearlessness -which, contrasted with his weakly body, never failed to turn their wrath -into merriment. He suffered severely from the secondaries of fever, -which, in his case, as in his master’s, assumed a cerebral form. At -Msene he was seized with fits resembling epilepsy; and as he seemed -every month to become more addle-headed and scatter-brained, more dirty -and untidy, more wasteful and forgetful, more loath to work without -compulsion, and more prone to start and feed the fire with ghee when it -was the scarcest of luxuries, I could not but attribute many of his -delinquencies to disease. - -The Baloch are now to appear. My little party were servants of His -Highness the Sayyid Majid of Zanzibar, who had detached them as an -escort upon the usual “deputation-allowance” of ten dollars per mensem. -They had received the command of their master to accompany me wherever I -might please to march, and they had been rendered responsible to him for -the safety of my person and property. As has been mentioned, Lieut.-Col. -Hamerton had advanced to them before departure a small sum for outfit, -and had promised them, on condition of good conduct, an ample reward on -the part of H. M.’s Government after return to Zanzibar. These men were -armed with the usual matchlock, the Cutch sabre,--one or two had -Damascus blades,--the Indian hide-targe, decorated with its usual -tinsel, the long khanjar or dagger, extra matches, flints and steels, -and toshdan, or ammunition pouches, sensibly distributed about their -persons. - -The Jemadar Mallok led from Zanzibar seven warriors of fame, yclept -severally, Mohammed, Shahdad, Ismail, Belok, Abdullah, Darwaysh, and the -Seedy Jelai; at Kaole he persuaded to follow his fortunes, Khudabakhsh, -Musa, Gul Mohammed, Riza, and Hudul a tailor boy. - -The Jemadar Mallok is a monocular, and the Sanscrit proverb declares: - - “Rare a Kana (one-eyed man) is a good man and sound, - Rare a ladye gay will be faithful found.” - -Mallok is no exception to this rule of the “Kana.” He is a man with -fine Italian features, somewhat disfigured by the small-pox: but his one -eye never looks you “in the face,” and there is an expression about the -mouth which forbids implicit trust in his honesty. He proclaims himself -to be somewhat fonder of fighting than of feeding, yet suspicious -circumstances led me to believe that he was one of those whom the Arabs -describe as “first at the banquet and last at the brawl.” He began with -a display of zeal and activity which died young; he lapsed, through -grumbling and discontent, into open insubordination as we progressed -westward, or from home; he became submissive and somewhat servile as we -returned to the coast, and when he took leave of me he shed a flood of -crocodile’s tears. - -Mohammed is the Rish Safid, or greybeard of the caravan, and without a -greybeard no eastern caravan considers itself _en règle_. Of these -indispensable veterans I had two specimens; but of what use they were, -except to teach hot youth the cold caution of eld, I never could -divine,--_vieux soldat, vielle bête_. In the civilised regiment age is -not venerable in the private, as every grey hair is a proof that he has -not merited or has forfeited promotion; so in the East, where there is a -paucity of competitors in the race of fortune, the Rish Safid of humble -fortune may be safely set down as a fool or a foolish knave, and though -his escort is sought, he generally proves himself to be no better than -he should have been. - -Mohammed’s body is apparently hard as a rock, his mind is soft as putty, -and his comrades, disappointed in their hopes of finding brains behind -those wrinkles, derisively compare him to a rotten walnut, and say -before his face, “What! grey hairs and no wits?” He has invested the -fifteen dollars advanced to him as outfit by Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, in a -slave-boy, whom presently he will exchange for a slave-girl, despite all -the inuendoes of his friends. He was at first a manner of peace-maker, -but soon my refusal to enlist and pay his slave as a hired porter acted -like Ithuriel’s spear. This veteran of fractious temper and miserly -habits ended, in a question of stinted rations, by drawing his sabre -upon and cutting at his Jemadar; an offence which I was compelled to -visit with a bastinado, inflicted out of the sight of man by the hand of -Khudabakhsh. - -Shahdad is the Chelebi of the party, the fast young man. He is decidedly -not handsome. A figure short and _trapu_, a retrussed nose, small pigs’ -eyes, a beard like a blackberry bush, and a crop of hair which, -projecting its wiry waves in a deep long curtain from beneath a -diminutive scarlet fez, makes his head appear top-heavy. Yet he does sad -havoc amongst female hearts by means of his zeze or guitar, half a gourd -with an arm to which is attached a single string, and by his lively -accompaniment is a squeaking falsetto, which is here as fascinating and -emollient to the sex as ever was the organ of Rubini in Europe. During a -lengthened sojourn at Bombay he has enlarged his mind by the acquisition -of the Hindostani tongue and of Indian trickery. He is almost the only -Eastern whom I remember that abused the poor letter H like a -thoroughbred Londoner. His familiarity with Anglo-Europeans, and his -experience touching the facility of gulling them, has induced in him a -certain proclivity for peculation, grumbling, and mutiny. His -brother--or rather cousin, for in these lands all fellow-tribesmen are -brethren--“Ismail” is a confirmed invalid, a man with a “broken mouth,” -deeply sunken cheeks, and emaciated frame, who, though earnestly -solicited to return eastwards, will persist in accompanying the party -till he falls a victim to a chronic malady in Unyamwezi. - -Belok is our snob; a youth of servile origin, with coarse features, wide -mouth, everted lips, and a pert, or rather an impudent expression of -countenance, which, acting as index to his troublesome character, at -once prejudices the physiognomist against him. Belok’s comrades have -reason to quote the Arab saw, “Defend me from the beggar become wealthy, -and from the slave become a freeman!” He has invested his advance of -salary in a youth; and the latter serves and works for the rest of the -mess, who must patiently and passively endure the insolence of the -master for fear of losing the offices of the man. After the fashion of a -certain sort of fools, he applies the whole of his modicum of wit to -mischief-making, and he succeeds admirably where better men, whose -thoughts attempt a wider range, would fail. By his exertions the Baloch -became, in point of social intercourse, not unlike the passengers of a -ship bound on a long voyage: after the first month the society divides -itself into two separate and adverse cliques; after the second it breaks -up into little knots; and after the third it is a chequer-work of pairs -and solitaires. Arrived at the “Pond of Ugogo,” I was compelled to -address an official letter to Zanzibar, requesting the recal of Belok -and his coadjutor in mischief, Khudabakhsh. - -Abdullah is the type of the respectable, in fact, of the good young man. -It is really pathetic to hear him recount, with accents broken by -emotion, the “tale full of waters of the eye,”--the parting of an only -son, who was led away to an African grave, from the aged widow his -mamma; to listen to her excellent advice, and to his no less excellent -resolves. He is capable of calling his bride elect, were such article a -subject ever to be mentioned amongst Moslems, “his choicest blessing.” -With an edifying mingling of piety and discipline, he never neglects the -opportunity of standing in prayer behind the Jemadar Mallok, whose -elevation to a superior grade--_honneur oblige!_--has compelled him to -rub up a superficial acquaintance with the forms of devotion. Virtue in -the abstract I revere; in the concrete I sometimes suspect. The good -young man soon justified this suspicion by repeatedly applying to Said -bin Salim for beads, in my name, which he converted to his own purposes. - -Of Darwaysh little need be said. He is a youth about twenty-two years -old, with a bulging brow, a pair of ferret-eyes, a “peaky” nose, a thin -chin; in fact, with a face the quintessence of curiosity. He is the -“brother”--that is to say, the spy--of the Jemadar, and his principal -peculiarity is a repugnance to obeying an order because it is an order. -With this individual I had at first many a passage of words. Presently -prostrated in body and mind by severe disease, he obtained relief from -European drugs; and from that time until the end of the journey, he -conducted himself with a certain stiffness and decorum which contrasted -pleasantly enough with the exceeding “bounce” of his earlier career. - -The Seedy Jelai calls himself a Baloch, though palpably the veriest -descendant of Ham. He resents with asperity the name of “Nigger,” or -“Nig”--Jupiter Tonans has heard of the offensive dissyllable, which -was a household word before the days of the Indian mutiny, but has -he heard of the more offensive monosyllable which was forced upon -the abbreviating Anglo-Saxon by the fatal necessity of requiring -to repeat the word so frequently? Jelai clothes his long lank -legs--cucumber-shinned and bony-kneed--in calico tights, which display -the full deformity of those members; and taking a pride in the length of -his mustachios, which distinguishes him from his African-born brethren, -he twists them _en croc_ like a hidalgo in the days of Gil Blas. The -Seedy, judging from analogy, ought to be brave, but he is not. On the -occasion of alarm in the mountains of Usagara, he privily proposed to -his comrades to “bolt” and leave us. Moreover, on the “Sea of Ujiji,” -where he was chosen as an escort, he ignobly deserted me. - -Khudabakhsh was formed by nature to be the best man of the party; he has -transformed himself into the worst. A man of broad and stalwart frame, -with stern countenance, and a quietness of demeanour which usually -argues _sang-froid_ and persistency, his presence is in all points -soldier-like and prepossessing. But his temper is unmanageable: he -enters into a quarrel when certain of discomfiture; he is utterly -reckless,--on one occasion he amused himself by blowing a charge of -gunpowder into the calves of African warriors who were dancing in front -of him;--and lastly, his innate propensity for backbiting, intrigue, and -opposition to all authority, render him a dangerous member of the -Expedition. He herds with Belok, whose tastes lie in the same line: he -is the head and front of all mischief, and presently his presence will -become insupportable. - -Musa, a tall, gaunt, and dark-brown old man, is the assistant Rish -Safid, or greybeard; in fact, the complement of “Greybeard Mohammed.” -After a residence of twenty years at Mombasah, he has clean forgotten -Persian; he speaks only a debased Mekrani dialect, and the Kisawahili, -which, as usual with his tribe, he prefers. An old soldier, he -compensates for want of youth and vigour by artfulness; an old -traveller--nothing better distinguishes in these lands the veteran of -the road from the griffin or greenhorn, than the careful and systematic -consideration of his comforts--he carries the lightest matchlock, he -starts in the cool of the morning, he presses forward to secure the best -quarters, and throughout he thinks only of himself. His character has a -want of wrath, which, despite his white hairs, causes him to be little -regarded. Greybeard Mohammed is considered a fool; Greybeard Musa, an -old woman. Yet he troubles himself little about the opinions of his -fellows, he looks well after his morning and evening meals, his ghee, -his pipe, and his sleeping mat; and knowing that he will last out all -the novices, with enviable philosophy he casts ambition to the winds. - -Gul Mohammed is the most civilised man of the party. He has straight and -handsome features, of the old Grecian type, a reddish-brown skin--the -skin by excellence--and a Central-Asian beard of largest dimensions. His -mind is as civilised as his body; he is an adept after the fashion of -his tribe, in divinity especially, in medicine and natural history; and -when landing at Marka, he actually took the trouble to visit, for -curiosity, the Juba River. Unfortunately, “Gul Mohammed” is a mixture of -Baloch mountaineer-blood with the Sindhian of the plain, and the cross -is, throughout the East, renowned for representing the worst points of -both progenitors. Gul Mohammed is brave and treacherous, fair-spoken and -detractive, honourable and dishonest, good-tempered and bad-hearted. - -Of the Baloch remain Riza, and Hudul, the tailor-boy: the former is a -kind of Darwaysh, utterly insignificant, but by no means so disagreeable -as his fellows: the only marking corporeal peculiarity of the latter is -a deficiency of skin; his mouth appears ever open, and his teeth -resemble those of an old rabbit. His mental organisation has its _petite -pointe_, its little twist; he is under the constant delusion that those -who speak in unknown tongues are employed specially in abusing him. His -first complaint was against the Goanese: as he could not understand a -word of their language, it was dismissed with some derision; he then -charged me to his comrades with his normal grievance, and in due time he -felt aggrieved by my companion. - -A proper regard to precedence induces me now to marshal the “sons of -Ramji,” who acted as interpreters, guides, and war-men. They were armed -with the old “Tower-musket,” which, loaded with nearly an ounce of -powder, they never allowed to quit the hand; and with those antiquated -German-cavalry sabres which find their way over all the East: their -accoutrements were small leathern boxes, strapped to the waist, and huge -cow-horns, for ammunition. The most part called themselves Muinyi -(master), the title of an African freeman, because they had been -received in pawn by the Banyan Ramji from their parents or uncles, who -had forgotten to redeem the pledge, and they still claimed the honour of -noble birth. Of these there were eight men under their Mtu Mku, or chief -man, Kidogo--Anglicè, Mr. Little. Kidogo had preceded the Expedition, -escorting the detachment of thirty-six Wanyamwezi porters to Zungomero, -and he possessed great influence over his brother slaves, who all seemed -to admire and to be proud of him. He was by no means a common man. -“Natione magis quam ratione barbarus;” he had a fixed and obstinate -determination: amongst these puerile, futile African souls he was -exceptional as “a sage Sciote or a green horse.” His point of honour -consisted in the resolve that his words should be held as Median laws, -and he had, as the Africans say, a “large head,” namely, abundant -self-esteem, that blessed quality which makes man independent of his -fellows. Muinyi Kidogo is a short, thin, coal-black person, with a -something arguing gentle blood in his tribe, the Wadoe Cannibals; he has -a peaked beard, a bulging brow, close thin lips, a peculiar wall-eyed -roll of glance, and a look fixed, when unobserved, with a manner of -fascination which men felt. His attitude is always humble and -deprecatory, he drops his chin upon the collar of reflection, he rarely -speaks, save in dulcet tones, low, plaintive, and modulated; yet -agreeing in every conceivable particular, he never fails to introduce a -most pertinacious “but,” which brings him back precisely to his own -starting-point. The vehemence of his manner, and the violence of his -temper, win for him the fears of the porters; having a wife and children -in Unyamwezi, he knows well the languages, the manners, and the customs -of the people; he never hesitates, when necessary, to enforce his mild -commands by a merciless application of the staff, or to air his blade -and to fly at the recusant like a wild cat. In such moods, he is always -seized by his friends, and led forcibly away, as if dangerous. To insure -some regularity on the road, I ordered him to meet Said bin Salim and -Muinyi Wazira every evening at my tent, for a “Mashauri,” or palaver, -about the next day’s march and halt. The measure was rendered futile by -Kidogo, who soon contrived so to browbeat the others, that they would -not venture an opinion in his presence. As a chief, he would have been -in the right position; as a slave, he was falsely placed, because -determined not to obey. He lost no time in demanding that he and his -brethren should be considered Askári, soldiers, whose sole duty it was -to carry a gun; and he took the first opportunity of declaring that his -men should not be under the direction of the Jemadar. Having received -for answer that we could not all be Sultans, he retired with a -“Ngema”--a “very well,” accompanied by a glance that boded little good. -From that hour the “sons of Ramji” went wrong. Before, servilely civil, -they waxed insolent; they learned their power--without them I must have -returned to the coast--and they presumed upon it. They assumed the -“swashing and martial outside” of valiant men: they disdained to be -“mechanical;” they swore not to carry burdens; they objected to loading -and leading the asses; they would not bring up articles left behind in -the camp or on the road; they claimed the sole right of buying -provisions; they arrogated to themselves supreme command over the -porters; and they pilfered from the loads whenever they wanted the -luxuries of meat and beer; they drank deep; and on more than one -occasion they endangered the caravan by their cavalier proceedings with -the fair sex. It was “water-painting” to complain; they had one short -reply to all objections, namely, the threat of desertion. Preferring -anything to risking the success of the Expedition, I was reduced to the -bitter alternative of long-suffering, but it was with the hope of a -_revanche_ at some future time. The suffering was perhaps not wholly -patient. Orientals advise the traveller “to keep his manliness in his -pocket for braving it and ruffling at home.” Such, however, is not -exactly the principle or the practice of an Englishman, who recognises a -primary duty of commanding respect for himself, for his successors, and -for the noble name of his nation. On the return of the Expedition, -Kidogo proved himself a “serviceable villain,” but an extortionate; -anything committed to him was, as the Arabs say, in “ape’s custody,” and -the only remedy was to remove him from all power over the outfit. - -Under the great Kidogo were the Muinyi Mboni, Buyuni, Hayja, and Jako; -these four took precedence as being the sons of Diwans, whilst the -commonalty was represented by the Muinyi Shehe, Mbaruko, Wulaydi, and -Khamisi. - -The donkey-men, five in number, had been hired at the rate of thirty -dollars per head for the whole time of exploration. Their names were -Musangesi, Sangora, Nasibu, Hasani, and Saramalla. Of their natures -little need be said, except that they were a trifle less manageable than -the “sons of Ramji:” perfect models of servile humanity, obstinate as -asses and vicious as mules, gluttonous and lazy, noisy and overbearing, -insolent and quarrelsome as slaves. - -Lowest in rank, and little above the asses even in their own estimation, -are the thirty-six Wanyamwezi Pagazi, or porters, who formed the -transport-corps. Concerning these men and their burdens, a few words of -explanation will be necessary. - -In collecting a caravan the first step is to “make,” as the people say, -a “Khambi,” or kraal. The Mtongi, or proprietor of the goods, announces, -by pitching his tent in the open, and by planting his flag, that he is -ready to travel; this is done because amongst the Wanyamwezi a porter -who persuades others to enlist does it under pain of prosecution and -fine-paying if a death or an accident ensue. Petty chiefs, however, and -their kinsmen will bring with them in hope of promotion a number of -recruits, sometimes all the male adults of a village, who then recognise -them as headmen. The next step is to choose a Kirangozi or guide. Guides -are not a peculiar class; any individual of influence and local -knowledge who has travelled the road before is eligible to the post. The -Kirangozi must pay his followers to acknowledge his supremacy, and his -Mganga or medicine-man for providing him with charms and prophylactics. -On the march he precedes his porters, and any one who breaks this rule -is liable to a fine. He often undergoes abuse for losing the way, for -marching too far or not far enough, for not halting at the proper place, -and for not setting out at the right time. In return he enjoys the empty -circumstance of command, and the solid advantage of better food and a -present, which, however, is optional, at the end of the journey: he -carries a lighter load, and his emoluments frequently enable him to be -attended by a slave. The only way of breaking the perverse and -headstrong herd into a semblance of discipline, is to support the -Kirangozi at all conjunctures, and to make him, if possible, dole out -the daily rations and portion the occasional presents of meat. - -At the preliminary Khambi the Mtongi superintends the distribution of -each Muzigo or load. The Pagazi or porters are mostly lads, lank and -light, with the lean and clean legs of leopards. Sometimes, however, a -herculean form is found with the bullet-head, the broad bull-like neck, -the deep wide chest, and the large strong extremities that characterise -the Hammal of Stamboul. There is usually a sprinkling of greybeards, who -might be expected, as the proverb is, to be “leaning against the wall.” -Amongst these races, however, the older men, who have learned to husband -their strength, fare better than their juniors, and the Africans, like -the Arabs, object to a party which does not contain veterans in beard, -age, and experience. In portioning the loads there is always much -trouble: each individual has his favourite fancy, and must choose, or, -at any rate, must consent to his burden. To load porters properly is a -work of skill. They will accept at the hand of a man who knows their -nature a weight which, if proposed by a stranger, would be rejected with -grunts of disgust. They hate the inconvenience of boxes, unless light -enough to be carried at both ends of a “Banghi”-pole by one man, or -heavy enough to be slung between two porters. The burden must never be -under a fair standard, especially when of that description that it -decreases by expenditure towards the end of the journey; a lightly-laden -man not only becomes lazy, he also makes his fellows discontented. The -nature of the load, however, causes an inequality of weight. Cloth is -tightly rolled up in the form of a huge bolster, five feet long by -eighteen to twenty-four inches in diameter, protected against wear and -weather by Makanda or coarse matting of brab-leaf, and corded over. This -bundle is fastened, for the purpose of preserving its shape and for -convenience of stacking, in a cradle of three or more flexible branches, -cut from a small tree below the place of junction, barked and trimmed, -laid along the length of the load, and confined at the open end by a -lashing of fibre-rope. Besides his weapons and marching kit, a man will -carry a pack of two Frasilah or seventy pounds, and this perhaps is the -maximum. Beads are placed in long, narrow bags of domestics, matted, -corded, and cradled in sticks like cloth; being a less elastic load, -they are more difficult to carry, and therefore seldom exceed fifty -pounds. Brass, and other wires, are carried in daur, khata, or circles, -lashed to both ends of a pole, which is generally the large midrib of a -palm-frond, with a fork cut in its depth at one extremity to form a base -for the load when stacked, and provided at the point of junction with a -Kitambara or pad of grass, rag, or leather. Wire is the lightest, as -ivory is the heaviest, of loads. The African porter will carry only the -smallest burdens upon his head, and the custom is mostly confined to -women and children. The merchants of course carry nothing but -themselves, except in extreme cases; but when the sudden sickness or the -evasion of a porter endangers the safety of his load, they shoulder it -without hesitation. The chief proprietor usually follows his caravan, -accompanied by some of his partners and armed slaves, to prevent the -straggling which may lead to heavy loss; he therefore often endures the -heat and tedium of the road longer than the rest of his party. - -The loads of the Pagazi, it has appeared, are composed of beads, cloth, -and wire, which in this land of “round trade” or barter, supply the -wants of a circulating medium, and they severally represent copper, -silver, and gold. For a detailed notice, the reader is referred to the -appendix; in this place a few general remarks will suffice to set before -him the somewhat complicated use of the articles. - -Of beads there are about 400 varieties, some of which have each three or -four different names. The cheapest, which form the staple of commerce, -are the Hafizi, Khanyera or Ushanga Waupe, a round white porcelain, the -price of which averages at Zanzibar 1 dollar per 5 or 6 lbs. -avoirdupois. The most expensive are the Samsam or Samesame, also called -Joho (scarlet cloth), Kimara-p’hamba (food-finishers), because a man -will part with his dinner to obtain them, and Kifunjyá-mji -(town-breakers), because the women will ruin themselves and their -husbands for them: these are the small coral-bead, scarlet enamelled -upon a white ground, they are of fifteen different sizes, and the value -at Zanzibar is from 13 to 16 dollars per 35 lbs. Beads are purchased -from the Banyan monopolisers unstrung, and are afterwards mounted by the -merchant upon T’hembe, or threads of palm-fibre; much depends for -success in sale upon the regularity and the attractiveness of the line. -The principal divisions are the bitil and the khete, which may represent -the farthing and the penny. The former is a single length from the tip -of the index to the wrist; the latter, which comprises four of the -former, is a double length round the thumb to the elbow-bone, or what is -much the same, twice the circumference of the throat. Ten khete compose -the fundo or knot, which is used in the larger purchases, and of these -from two to three were daily expended in our small expenses by the -Goanese servants, whilst the usual compensation for rations to an -African is a single khete. The utmost economy should be exercised in -beads: apparently exhaustless a large store goes but a little way, and a -man’s load rarely outlasts a month. It is difficult to divine what -becomes of these ornaments: for centuries ton after ton has been -imported into the country, they are by no means perishable substances, -and the people carry, like the Indians, their wealth upon their persons. -Yet not a third of the population was observed to wear any considerable -quantity; possibly the excessive demand in the lands outlying direct -intercourse with the coast, tends to disperse them throughout the vast -terra incognita of the central African basin. - -The African preserves the instincts of infancy in the higher races. He -astonished the enlightened De Gama some centuries ago by rejecting with -disdain jewels, gold, and silver, whilst he caught greedily at beads and -other baubles, as a child snatches at a new plaything. To the present -day he is the same. There is something painfully ludicrous in the -expression of countenance, the intense and all-absorbing admiration, and -the greedy wistfulness with which he contemplates the rubbish. Yet he -uses it as a toy: after sacrificing perhaps his goat or his grain to -become the happy possessor of a khete, he will hang it round his neck -for a few days, and then, child-like, weary of the acquisition, he will -do his best to exchange it for another. In all bargains beads must be -thrown in, especially where women are concerned: their sisters of -civilisation would reproach themselves with an unconscious lapse into -the “nil admirari” doctrines so hateful to the muscular system of the -age, and with a cold indifference to the charms of diamonds and pearls, -could they but witness the effect of a string of scarlet porcelains upon -the high-born dames in Central Africa. - -The cloths imported into East Africa are of three kinds, Merkani, -Kaniki, and “cloths with names.” - -“Merkani,” in which we detect the African corruption of American, is the -article “domestics”--unbleached shirting and sheeting from the mills -near Salem. Kaniki, is the common Indian indigo dyed cotton. “Cloths -with names,” as they are called by the Africans, are Arab and Indian -checks, and coloured goods, of cotton or silk mixed with cotton. Of -these the most common is the Barsati, a dark blue cotton cloth with a -broad red stripe, which representing the dollar in the interior is -useful as presents to chiefs. Of double value is the Dabwani, made at -Maskat, a small blue and white check, with a quarter breadth of red -stripe, crossed with white and yellow: this showy article is invariably -demanded by the more powerful Sultans for themselves and their wives, -whilst they divide the Merkani and Kaniki, which composes their -Honga--“blackmail” or dash--amongst their followers. - -The people of East Africa, when first visited by the Arabs, were -satisfied with the coarsest and flimsiest Kaniki imported by the Banyans -from Cutch. When American merchants settled at Zanzibar, Kaniki yielded -before the advance of “Merkani,” which now supplies the markets from -Abyssinia to the Mozambique. But the wild men are fast losing their -predilection for a stuff which is neither comfortable nor durable, and -in many regions the tribes satisfied with goat-skins and tree barks, -prefer to invest their capital in the more attractive beads and wire. It -would evidently be advantageous if England or her colonies could -manufacture an article better suited to the wants of the country than -that now in general use; but as long as the Indian short-stapled cotton -must be used, there is little probability of her competing with the -produce of the New World. - -In Eastern Africa cotton cloth is used only for wear. The popular -article is a piece of varying breadth but always of four cubits, or six -feet, in length: the braça of Portuguese Africa, it is called by the -Arabs, shukkah, by the Wasawahili, unguo, and in the far interior upande -or lupande. It is used as a loin-wrapper, and is probably the first -costume of Eastern Africa and of Arabia. The plate borrowed from -Montfaucon’s edition of the “Topographia Christiana,” by Dr. Vincent -(Part I. Appendix to the Periplus) shows the Shukkah, to be the general -dress of Ethiopians, as it was of the Egyptians, and the spear their -weapon. The use of the Shukkah during the Meccan pilgrimage, when the -devotees cast off such innovations as coats and breeches for the -national garb of their ancestors, proves its antiquity throughout the -regions eastward of the Red Sea. On the African coast the Shukkah -Merkani is worth about 0·25 dollars = 1_s._ 0½_d._, in the interior it -rises to the equivalent of a dollar (4_s._ _2d._) and even higher. The -Kaniki is but little cheaper than the Merkani, when purchased upon the -sea-board; its increase of value in the interior, however, is by no -means in proportion to its prime cost, and by some tribes it is wholly -rejected. A double length of Shukkah, or twelve feet, the article worn -by women who can afford it, is called a Doti, and corresponds with the -Tobe of Abyssinia and of the Somali country. The whole piece of Merkani, -which contains from seven to eleven Doti, is termed a Jurah or Gorah. - -After beads and piece-goods, the principal imports into Eastern Africa, -especially on the northern lines and in the western portion of the great -central route, are Masango or brass wires of large sizes, Nos. 4 and 5. -They are purchased at Zanzibar, when cheap, at 12, and when dear at 16, -dollars per Frasilah of 35 lbs. When imported up-country the Frasilah is -divided into three or four large coils, called by the Arabs “daur,” and -by the Africans “khata:” the object is convenience of attachment to the -porters’ banghy-poles. Arrived at Unyanyembe they are converted by -artisans into the kitindi, or coil-bracelet, a peculiarly African -decoration. It is a system of concentric circles extending from the -wrist to the elbow; at both extremities it is made to bulge out for -grace and for allowing the joints to play; and the elasticity of the -wire keeps it in its place. It weighs nearly 3 lbs., yet--“vanity knows -no sore”--the women of some tribes will wear four of these bulky -decorations upon their arms and legs. It is mostly a feminine ornament. -In the Lake Regions, however, men assume the full-sized armlet, and in -the mountains of Usagara their wrists, arms, and ankles are often -decorated with half and quarter lengths, which being without terminal -bulges, appear to compress the limbs painfully. At Unyanyembe the value -of a kitindi varies from two to four shukkah; at Ujiji, where the -ornament is in demand it rises to four or five. - -The remainder of the live stock forming the _personnel_ of the caravan -is composed of asses. At Zanzibar I had bought five riding animals to -mount the chiefs of the party, including Said bin Salim and the Goanese. -The price varied from fifteen to forty dollars. Of the twenty-nine asses -used for carriage, only twenty remained when the muster was made at -Zungomero, and the rapid thinning of their numbers by loss, death and -accident began to suggest uncomfortable ideas. - -The following “Equipment of the Expedition,” sent by me to Mr. Francis -Galton, the South African traveller, and bearing date, “Camp Zungomero -in Khutu, Sunday, 2nd August, 1857,” is here republished: it will assist -the reader in picturing to himself the mass of material which I am about -to drag over the mountains. - -_Provisions, &c._--1 dozen brandy (to be followed by 4 dozen more); 1 -box cigars; 5 boxes tea (each 6 lbs.); a little coffee; 2 bottles curry -stuff, besides ginger, rock and common salt, red and black pepper, one -bottle each, pickles, soap, and spices; 20 lbs. pressed vegetables; 1 -bottle vinegar; 2 bottles oil; 20 lbs. sugar (honey is procurable in the -country). - -_Arms and Ammunition_, including 2 smooth bores, 3 rifles, a Colt’s -carbine, and 3 revolvers, spare fittings, &c., and 3 swords. Each gun -has its leather bag with three compartments, for powder-flask, ball, -caps, patches, &c. 100 lbs. gunpowder (in 2 safety copper magazines and -others); 60 lbs. shot; 380 lbs. lead bullets, cast of hardened material -at the Arsenal, Bombay, placed in boxes 40 lbs. each for convenience of -carriage, also to serve as specimen boxes, and screwed down to prevent -pilfering; 20,000 copper caps; wadding. - -The Baloch are armed with matchlocks, shields, swords, daggers and -knives. They have for ammunition--40 lbs. gunpowder (4 kegs); 1000 lead -bullets; 1000 flints for slaves’ muskets, and are to be followed by -about an equal quantity of ammunition. - -_Camp Furniture._--1 sepoy’s rowtie; 1 small (gable-shaped) tent of two -sails joined, to cover and shelter property in this land of perpetual -rains; 1 table and chair; 1 tin Crimean canteen, with knives and forks, -kettle, cooking-pots, &c.; bedding, painted tarpaulin cover, 2 large -cotton pillows for stuffing birds, 1 air pillow, 2 waterproof blankets -(most useful), 1 Maltese blanket (remarkably good), and 2 other -blankets; 1 cork bed, with 2 pillows, 3 blankets, and mosquito net. The -Goanese have thick cotton padded mattresses, pillows, and blankets, and -all the servants have some kind of bedding. 3 solid leather portmanteaus -for clothes and books; 1 box, like an Indian petarah, for books; 1 -patent leather bag for books, washing materials, diaries, drawing-books, -&c.; 1 small couriers’ bag, for instruments, &c.; 5 canvas bags for kit -generally; 3 mats, used as carpets. - -_Instruments._--1 lever watch; 2 chronometers; 2 prismatic compasses, -slings, and stands; 1 ship’s azimuth compass; 2 pocket compasses; 1 -pocket thermometer; 1 portable sun-dial; 1 rain gauge; 1 evaporating -dish; 2 sextants and boxes, with canvas bags to be slung over porters’ -shoulders; 2 artificial horizons (with a little extra mercury, to be -followed by more); 1 pocket lens; 1 mountain barometer lent by Bombay -Geographical Society (very delicate); 3 thermometers; 1 measuring tape -(100 ft.); 1 sounding lead; 2 boiling thermometers; 1 box of -mathematical instruments; 1 glass; 1 telescope; 2 ft. rule with brass -slide; 1 pocket pedometer by Dixie; 1 parallel ruler. - -_Stationery._--Foolscap paper; 1 ream common paper; 6 blank books; 3 -Letts’ diaries; 2 dozen pencils; 6 pieces caoutchouc; 6 metallic note -books; 3 memorandum ditto; 1 box wafers and sealing wax; 2 field books; -steel pens; quill ditto; ink powder which makes up well without acid; 3 -bottles ink; 1 bottle native ink; 2 sets meteorological tables, blank; 4 -tin cylinders for papers (very bad, everything rusts in them); Nautical -Almanacs for 1857 and 1858; charts, Mr. Cooley’s maps; “Mombas mission -map”; skeleton maps; table of stars; account book; portfolio; wooden and -tin cylinders for pens, &c. - -_Tools._--1 large turnscrew; 1 hand saw; 1 hammer; 20 lbs. nails; 1 hand -vice; 1 hone; 9 hatchets (as a rule every porter carries an axe); 2 -files; 9 Jembe or native hoe; 9 Mas’ha or native dibbles; 1 cold chisel; -1 heavy hammer; 1 pair pincers. To be followed by 1 bench vice; 1 hand -ditto; 12 gimlets of sizes; 1 18-inch stone grinder, with spindle and -handle; 6 splitting axes; 12 augers of sizes; 2 sets centre-bits, with -stock; 12 chisels; 4 mortise chisels; 2 sets drills; 24 saw files; 6 -files of sorts; 4 gouges of sizes; 50 lbs. iron nails; 2 planes, with 2 -spare irons; 3 hand saws; screws. These things were expected to be -useful at the lakes, where carpenters are in demand. - -_Clothing, Bedding, and Shoes._--Shirts, flannel and cotton; turbans and -thick felt caps for the head. (N.B. not looking forward to so long a -journey, we left Zanzibar without a new outfit; consequently we were in -tatters before the end, and in a climate where flannel fights half the -battle of life against death, my companion was compelled to invest -himself in overalls of American domestics, and I was forced to cut up -blankets into coats and wrappers. The Goanese also had laden themselves -with rags which would have been refused by a Jew; they required to be -re-clothed in Kaniki, or blue cotton. African travel is no favourable -opportunity for wearing out old clothes; the thorny jungles, and the -practice of packing up clothes wet render a double outfit necessary for -long journeys. The second should be carried packed up in -tin--flannel-shirts, trousers and stocks, at least six of each,--not to -be opened till required. - -The best bedding in this country would be a small horsehair mattrass -with two blankets, one thick the other thin, and mosquito curtains that -would pack into the pillow. A simple carpet-bag without leathern or -other adjuncts, should contain the travelling clothes, and all the -bedding should roll up into a single bundle, covered with a piece of -waterproof canvass, and tightly bound with stout straps. - -As regards shoes, the best would be ammunition boots for walking and -jack boots for riding. They must be of light colour, and at least one -size too large in England; they should be carefully protected from -external air which is ruinous to leather, and they must be greased from -time to time,--with fat not with oil--otherwise they will soon become so -hard and dry, that it is impossible to draw them on unless treated after -the Indian plan, viz. dipped in hot water and stretched with a stuffing -of straw.) - -_Books and Drawing Materials._--Norie; Bowdich; Thompson’s ‘Lunar -Tables;’ Gordon’s ‘Time Tables;’ Galton’s ‘Art of Travel;’ Buist’s -‘Manual of Observation;’ Jackson’s ‘What to Observe;’ Jackson’s -‘Military Surveying;’ ‘Admiralty Manual;’ Cuvier’s ‘Animal Life;’ -Prichard’s ‘History of Man;’ Keith’s ‘Trigonometry;’ Krapf’s ‘Kisuaheli -Grammar;’ Krapf’s ‘Kinika Testament;’ Amharic Grammar (Isenberg’s); -Belcher’s ‘Mast Head Angles;’ Cooley’s ‘Geography of N’yassi;’ and other -miscellaneous works; 1 paint-box complete, soft water colours; 1 small -ditto, with Chinese ink, sepia and Prussian blue; 2 drawing books; 1 -large drawing book; 1 camera lucida. - -_Portable domestic Medicine Chest._--Vilely made. Some medicines for -natives in packages. Application was made to Zanzibar for more quinine, -some morphia, Warburg’s drops, citric acid, and chiretta root. - -_Miscellaneous._--10 pieces scarlet broad-cloth for presents (3 -expended); 3 knives for servants; 4 umbrellas; 1 hank salmon gut; 1 -dozen twisted gut; 1 lb. bees’ wax; courier’s box with brass clasps to -carry sundries on the road; 2 dozen penknives; 2000 fishing hooks; 42 -bundles fishing line; 2 lanterns (policeman’s bull’s eye and common -horn); 2 iron ladles for casting lead; 1 housewife, with buttons, -needles, thread, silk, pins, &c.; 12 needles (sailor’s) and palms; 2 -pair scissors; 2 razors; 1 hone; 2 pipes; 1 tobacco pouch; 1 cigar case; -7 canisters of snuff; 1 filter; 1 pocket filter; 1 looking-glass; 1 -small tin dressing-case, with soap, nail-brush and tooth-brush (very -useful); brushes and combs; 1 union jack; arsenical paste for specimens; -10 steels and flints. - -Life at Zungomero I have said was the acme of discomfort. The weather -was, as usual at the base of the mountains, execrable; pelting showers -descended in a succession, interrupted only by an occasional burst of -fiery sunshine which extracted steam from the thick covert of grass, -bush, and tree. The party dispersing throughout the surrounding -villages, in which it was said about 1000 travellers were delayed by the -inundations, drank beer, smoked bhang, quarrelled amongst themselves, -and by their insolence and violence caused continual complaints on the -part of the villagers. Both the Goanese being prostrated with mild -modifications of “yellow jack,” I was obliged to admit them into the -hut, which was already sufficiently populated with pigeons, rats, and -flies by day, and with mosquitos, bugs, and fleas, by night. At length -weary of waiting the arrival of the twenty-two promised porters, we -prepared our papers, which I committed to the confidential slave of a -coast Diwan, here dwelling as caravan-touter, for his uncle Ukwere of -Kaole. His name was somewhat peculiar, Chomwi la Mtu Mku Wambele, or the -“Headman Great Man of Precedence;”--these little Jugurthas have all the -titles of emperors, with the actual power of country squires;--he never -allowed himself to appear in public sober, and to judge from the list of -stations with which he obliged me--of eighteen not one was correct--I -hesitated to entrust his slave with reports and specimens. But the -Headman Great Man of Precedence did as he promised to do, and as his -charge arrived safely, I here make to him the “amende honorable.” - -[Illustration: A village in K’hutu. - -The Silk Cotton Tree.] - -[Illustration: Sycomore in the Dhun of Ugogi.] - - - - -CHAP. VI. - -WE CROSS THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS. - - -On the 7th August, 1857, the Expedition left Zungomero. We were martyred -by miasma; my companion and I were so feeble, that we could scarcely sit -our asses, and weakness had almost deprived us of the sense of hearing. -It was a day of severe toil. We loaded with difficulty, for the slaves -and porters did not assemble till past 8 A.M., and instead of applying -for their loads to Said bin Salim, every man ran off with the lightest -burden or the easiest ass. - -[Illustration: THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS.] - -From Central Zungomero to the nearest ascent of the Usagara Mountains is -a march of five hours. The route, emerging from the cultivated -districts, leaves to the right the Wigo Hills, so called, probably, from -the fishing weirs in the stagnant waters below, and in the Mgeta River, -which flows through the plain. On the left, and distant four or five -miles, is a straggling line of low cones: at the foot of one, somewhat -larger than its neighbours, rises the thermal spring known to the people -as the Maji ya W’heta, the Geyser, jetting-water, or _fontaine qui -bouille_. Its position is a gentle slope between the hill-base and a -dwarf Savannah which is surrounded by high walls of jungly forest, and -the water-shed is from south to north. The hot water boils and bubbles -out of a white sand, here and there stained and encrusted with oxide of -iron. Upon the surface lie caked and scaly sheets of calcareous tufa, -expressed by the spring, and around it are erratic boulders blackened -probably by the thermal fumes. The earth is dark, sometimes sandy, and -sprinkled over with fragments of quartzite and sandstone; in other -places a screen of brab-tree backs a bold expanse of ground, -treacherous, boggy, and unstable as water. The area is about 200 feet in -diameter, and the centre of ebullition is unapproachable, owing to the -heat and the instability of the soil. According to the guides, it is -subject to occasional eruptions, when the water bursts out with -violence, and fragments of lime are flung high in the air. Animals are -said to refuse it, and tales are told of wild beasts having been bogged -in the seething mire. - -With the Mgeta thrown on the left hand, we passed by a path almost -invisible, through dense grass and trees, and presently we entered the -luxuriant cultivation surrounding the westernmost villages of K’hutu. As -the land beyond this point, for three long marches, lies barren, the -slaves and porters had comfortably housed themselves. The prospect of -another night in the plains made me desperate; I dislodged them, and -persuaded them to advance once more. The settlements were of the most -miserable description; many were composed of a few sticks lashed -together at the top, and loosely covered with a few armfuls of -holcus-cane. Here we sighted the cocoa-tree for the last time. The rats -were busy in the fields, and the plundered peasants were digging them -out for food. At almost every corner of the deeply-pitted path stood a -mtego, or trap for small birds, a cage of rush or split bamboo planted -in the ground near some corn, where a boy lies waiting till the prey -nibbles at the bait, and then creeping up, bars with his hand the little -doorway left in one of the sides. Beyond the villages the path forded -six times the sandy bed of the Mgeta, whose steep and slippery banks -supported dense screens of shrub and grass. Beyond the sixth passage, -the road falls into the gravelly river-shoals, with the stream flowing -in the other half of the course, under well-wooded masses of primitive -hill. After again thrice fording the cold and muddy water, which even in -the dry season is here ankle, there foot-deep, the road passed some -clearings where porcupines and the African red squirrel, a sturdy little -animal, with a long thick fur of dark brown, shot with green on the -back, and a bright red waistcoat, muzzle, and points, were observed. -About noon we diverged a few yards from the Mgeta, and ascended the -incline of the first gradient in Usagara, rising about 300 feet from the -plain below. This, the frontier of the second region, or ghauts, and the -debris encumbering the lowest escarpment, is called Mzizi Mdogo, or the -“Little Tamarind,” to distinguish it from the “Great Tamarind” station -which lies beyond. There was no vestige of building upon the spot--no -sight nor sound of man--the blood-feud and the infernal slave-trade had -made a howling desert of the land. We found, however, a tattered kraal -erected by the last passing caravan, and, spent with fatigue, we threw -ourselves on the short grass to rest. The porters and the asses did not -appear till the evening, when it became apparent that two of the latter -had been lost by their drivers, Hayja and Khamisi, sons of Ramji, who -preferred sitting in the shade, and chatting with passing caravans, to -the sore task of doing their duty. The animals were recovered on the -morrow, by sundry parties sent in search. During the fordings of the -Mgeta, however, they had not been unpacked; our salt and sugar, -therefore, had melted away; soap, cigars, mustard, and arsenical paste, -were in pulp; the tea was spoiled, the compressed vegetables presently -became musty, and the gunpowder in a fire-proof copper magazine was -caked like stale bread. - -There was a wondrous change of climate at Mzizi Mdogo; strength and -health returned as if by magic; even the Goanese shook off the obstinate -bilious remittents of Zungomero. Truly delicious was the escape from the -nebulous skies, the fog-driving gusts, the pelting rain, the clammy -mists veiling a gross growth of fetor, the damp raw cold, rising as it -were from the earth, and the alternations of fiery and oppressive heat; -in fact, from the cruel climate of the river-valley, to the pure sweet -mountain-air, alternately soft and balmy, cool and reviving, and to the -aspect of clear blue skies, which lent their tints to highland ridges -well wooded with various greens. Dull mangrove, dismal jungle, and -monotonous grass, were supplanted by tall solitary trees, amongst which -the lofty tamarind rose conspicuously graceful, and a card-table-like -swamp, cut by a network of streams, nullahs, and stagnant pools, gave -way to dry healthy slopes, with short steep pitches, and gently shelving -hills. The beams of the large sun of the equator--and nowhere have I -seen the rulers of night and day so large--danced gaily upon blocks and -pebbles of red, yellow, and dazzling snowy quartz, and the bright -sea-breeze waved the summits of the trees, from which depended graceful -llianas, and wood-apples large as melons, whilst creepers, like vine -tendrils, rising from large bulbs of brown-grey wood, clung closely to -their stalwart trunks. Monkeys played at hide-and-seek, chattering -behind the bolls, as the iguana, with its painted scale-armour, issued -forth to bask upon the sunny bank; white-breasted ravens cawed when -disturbed from their perching-places; doves cooed on the well-clothed -boughs, and hawks soared high in the transparent sky. The field-cricket -chirped like the Italian cigala in the shady bush, and everywhere, from -air, from earth, from the hill slopes above, and from the marshes below, -the hum, the buzz, and the loud continuous voice of insect life, through -the length of the day, spoke out its natural joy. Our gipsy encampment -lay - - “By shallow rivers, to whose falls - Melodious birds sing madrigals.” - -By night, the soothing murmurs of the stream at the hill’s base rose -mingled with the faint rustling of the breeze, which at times broken by -the scream of the night-heron, the bellow of the bull-frog in his swampy -home, the cynhyæna’s whimper, and the fox’s whining bark, sounded -through the silence most musical, most melancholy. Instead of the cold -night rain, and the soughing of the blast, the view disclosed a peaceful -scene, the moonbeams lying like sheets of snow upon the ruddy highlands, -and the stars hanging like lamps of gold from the dome of infinite blue. -I never wearied with contemplating the scene, for, contrasting with the -splendours around me, still stretched in sight the Slough of Despond, -unhappy Zungomero, lead-coloured above, mud-coloured below, wind-swept, -fog-veiled, and deluged by clouds that dared not approach these -Delectable Mountains. - -During a day’s halt at this sanitarium fresh diversions agitated the -party. The Baloch, weary of worrying one another, began to try their -’prentice hands upon the sons of Ramji, and these fortified by the -sturdy attitude of Muinyi Kidogo, manfully resolved to hold their own. -The asses fought throughout the livelong night, and, contrary to the -custom of their genus, strayed from one another by day. And as, - - “When sorrows come, they come not single spies, - But in battalions,” - -Said bin Salim, who hated and was hated by the Baloch, on account -of their divided interests, began to hate and to be hated by the sons of -Ramji. His four children, the most ignoble of their ignoble race, were -to him as the apples of his eyes. He had entered their names as public -porters, yet, with characteristic egotism and self-tenderness, he was -resolved that they should work for none but their master, and that even -in this their labour should as much as possible fall upon the shoulders -of others. His tent was always the first pitched and his fire the first -built; his slaves were rewarded with such luxuries as ghee, honey, and -turmeric, when no one in camp, ourselves included, could procure them. -When all wanted clothes he clad his children out of the outfit as if it -had been his own, and, till strong remonstrances were made, large -necklaces of beads decked their sooty necks. On the return-march he -preferred to pay hire for three porters rather than to allow the fat -lazy knaves to carry a bed or a few gourds. They became of course -insolent and unmanageable--more than once they gave trouble by pointing -their muskets at the Baloch and the porters, and they would draw their -knives and stab at a man who refused to give up his firewood or his -hearth-stones, without incurring a word of blame from their master. -Encouraged by impunity they robbed us impudently; curry-stuff was soon -exhausted, the salt-bottles showed great gaps, and cigar-ends were -occasionally seen upon the road-side. The Goanese accused the slaves, -and the slaves the Goanese; probably both parties for once spoke the -truth. - -Said bin Salim’s silly favouritism naturally aroused the haughty -Kidogo’s bile; the sons of Ramji, consequently, worked less than before. -The two worthies, Arab and African, never, however, quarrelled, no harsh -word passed between them; with smiles upon their faces, and a bitter -hate at heart, they confined themselves to all manner of backbiting and -talebearing. Said bin Salim sternly declared to me that he would never -rest satisfied until Kidogo’s sword was broken and his back was -scarified at the flagstaff of Zanzibar; but I guessed that this -“wrathful mouse and most magnanimous dove” would, long before his -journey’s end, have forgotten all his vengeance. Kidogo asserted that -the Muarabu or Arab was a green-horn, and frequently suggested the -propriety of “planting” him. At last this continual harping upon the -same chord became so offensive, that B’ana Saidi was forbidden to -pronounce the name of Muinyi Kidogo, and Muinyi Kidogo was ordered never -to utter the words B’ana Saidi before the exasperated leader of the -Expedition, who could not, like these squabblers, complain, resent, -forget and forgive, in the short space of a single hour. - -We left Mzizi Mdogo on the 9th August, much cheered by the well-omened -appearance of a bird with red bill, white breast, and long -tail-feathers. The path ran over a succession of short steep hills with -a rufous-brown soil, dotted with blocks and stones, thinly veiled with -grass, and already displaying signs of aridity in the growth of aloetic -and thorny plants, the Cactus and the larger Asclepias, the Euphorbia or -Spurge-wort, and the stunted Mimosa. The Calabash, however, still rose a -stately tree, and there was a sprinkling of the fine Tamarinds which -have lent their name to the district. The Tamarind, called by the Arabs -of Zanzibar “Subar,” extends from the coast to the Lake Regions: with -its lofty stem, its feathery leaflets, and its branches spreading dark -cool shade, it is a beautiful feature in African landscape. The -acidulated fruit is doubtless a palliative and a corrective to bilious -affections. The people of the country merely peel and press it into bark -baskets, consequently it soon becomes viscid, and is spoiled by mildew; -they ignore the art of extracting from it an intoxicating liquor. The -Arabs, who use it extensively in cooking, steam, sun-dry, and knead it, -with a little salt and oil to prevent the effects of damp, into balls: -thus prepared and preserved from the air, it will keep for years. - -On the way we were saddened by the sight of the clean-picked skeletons, -and here and there the swollen corpses, of porters who had perished in -this place of starvation. A single large body which had lost fifty of -its number by small-pox, had passed us but yesterday on the road, and -the sight of their deceased comrades recalled to our minds terrible -spectacles; men staggering on blinded by disease, and mothers carrying -on their backs infants as loathsome objects as themselves. The wretches -would not leave the path, every step in their state of failing strength -was precious; he who once fell would never rise again; no village would -admit death into its precincts, no relation nor friend would return for -them, and they would lie till their agony was ended by the raven and -vulture, the Fisi and the fox. Near every Khambi or Kraal I remarked -detached tents which, according to the guides, were set apart for those -seized with the fell disease. Under these circumstances, as might be -expected, several of our party caught the infection; they lagged behind -and probably threw themselves into some jungle, for the path when -revisited showed no signs of them. - -We spent 4 hrs. 30′ in weary marching, occasionally halting to reload -the asses that threw their packs. Near the Mgeta River, which was again -forded six times, the vegetation became tall and thick, grasses -obstructed the path, and in the dense jungle on the banks of the stream, -the Cowhage (_Dolichos pruriens_,) and stiff reeds known as the “wild -sugar-cane,” annoyed the half-naked porters. Thus bounded and approached -by muddy and slippery, or by steep and stony inclines, the stream shrank -to a mountain torrent, in places hardly fifty feet broad; the flow was -swift, the waters were dyed by the soil a ruddy brown, and the bed was -sandy and sometimes rocky with boulders of primitive formation, streaked -with lines of snow-white quartz. Near the end of the marsh we ascended a -short steep staircase of rock and root, with a dwarf precipice -overhanging the river on the right, which was dangerous for the laden -beasts as they crawled like beetles up the path. At 3 P.M. we arrived at -a kraal called Cha K’henge--of the iguana, from the number of these -animals found near the stream. It was a delightful spot, equal to Mzizi -Mdogo in purity of air, and commanding a fair prospect of the now -distant Dut’humi Highlands. - -The next day was a forced halt at Cha K’henge. Of two asses that had -been left behind one was recovered, the other was abandoned to its fate. -The animals purchased at Zanzibar were falling off visibly in condition. -Accustomed to a kind of grass which nowhere grows upon these sunburnt -hills, they had regular feeds of holcus, but that, as Said bin Salim -expressed himself, was only coffee to them. The Wanyamwezi asses, -however, managed to pick a sustenance from the rushes and from the -half-burned stubbles, when fortunate enough to find any. Sickness again -declared itself. Shahdad the Baloch bellowed like a bull with fever -pains, Gaetano complained that he was suffering tortures generally, two -of the Wanyamwezi were incapacitated by the symptoms preliminary to -small-pox from carrying their packs, and a third was prostrated by ague. -We started, however, on the next day for a long march which concluded, -the passage of the “Tamarind Hills.” Crossing a country broken by dry -nullahs, or rather ditches, we traversed a seam of forest with a deep -woody ravine on the right, and twice unpacked and reloaded the asses, -who lay down instead of breasting the difficulties: a muddy swamp full -of water-courses, and the high earth-banks of the Rufuta a Fiumara, here -dry during the hot season. Thence, winding along a hill-flank, to avoid -a bend in the bed, the path plunged into the sole of the Rufuta. This -main-drain of the lower gradients carries off, according to the guides, -the waters of the high ground around it into the Mgeta. The bed, which -varies from three to sixteen feet in breadth, serpentines abruptly -through the hills: its surface is either deep sand or clay, sopped with -water, which near the head becomes a thin fillet, ankle-deep, now sweet, -then salt: the mud is tinged in places with a solution of iron, showing, -when stagnant, prismatic and iridescent tints. Where narrowest, the tall -grasses of the banks meet across the gut, which, after a few yards of -short, sharp winding, opens out again. The walls are in some parts -earth, in others blocks of gray syenite, which here and there encumber -the bed: on the right, near the end of the stage, the hills above seem -to overhang the Fuimara in almost perpendicular masses of sandstone, -from whose chinks spring the gnarled roots of tall trees corded with -creepers, overgrown with parasites; and hung with fruits like footballs, -dangling from twines sometimes thirty feet long. The lower banks, where -not choked with rush, are overgrown with the brightest verdure, and with -the feathery bamboo rising and falling before the wind. The corpses of -porters were even more numerous than on the yester: our Muslems passed -them with averted faces and with the low “la haul!” of disgust, and a -decrepid old Mnyamwezi porter gazed at them and wept for himself. About -2 P.M., turning abruptly from the bed, we crawled up a short stony steep -strewed with our asses and their loads; and reaching the summit of a -dwarf cone near the foot of the “Goma Pass,” we found the usual outlying -huts for porters dying of small-pox, and an old kraal, which we made -comfortable for the night. In the extensive prospect around, the little -beehive villages of the Wakaguru and the Wakwivi, sub-tribes of the -Wasagara, peeped from afar out of the forest nooks on the distant -hill-folds. The people are rich in flocks and grain, but a sad -experience has taught them to shun intercourse with all strangers, Arabs -and Wasawahili, Wamrima and Wanyamwezi. In happier days the road was -lined with large villages, of which now not a trace remains. - -A Boiling Point Thermometer by Cox, the gift of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -and left with him by Captain, now Admiral Smyth, F. R. G. S., who had -used it in measuring the Andes, had been accidentally broken by my -companion at Cha K’henge. Arrived at Rufuta, I found that a second B. P. -by Newman, and a Bath-Thermometer by the same maker, had been torn so -violently from their box that even the well-soldered handles were -wrenched off. But a few days afterwards our third B. P. was rendered -useless by the carelessness of Gaetano. Thus, of the only three really -accurate hypsometrical instruments which we possessed,--the Barometer -had come to grief, and no aneroid had been sent from Bombay--not one was -spared to reach the Lake. We saved, however, two Bath-Thermometers -marked Newman, and Johnson and Co., Bombay, which did good service, and -one of which was afterwards corrected by being boiled at sea-level. I -may here observe that on such journeys, where triangulation is -impossible, and where the delicate aneroid and the Mountain Barometer -can scarcely be carried without accident, the thermometer is at present -the traveller’s stand-by. It abounds, however, in elements of error. The -elasticity of the glass, especially in a new instrument, causes the -mercury to subside below the graduated scale. The difference of level in -a covered “shaving-pot” and in an open pan exposed to the wind, will -sometimes amount to 1° F. = 500 feet: they therefore are in error who -declare that any vessel suffices for the purpose of boiling. Finally, in -all but the best instruments the air is not thoroughly expelled from the -tube: indeed some writers, Dr. Buist, for instance, actually advise the -error. - -Another ass was left at Rufuta unable to stand, and anxiously eyeing its -stomach, whereby the Baloch conjectured that it was dying of a poisonous -grass. Having to ascend on the 12th August the Goma Pass of the Rufuta, -or the Eastern Range, I had arranged with Kidogo and the Kirangozi, or -guide, that the porters should proceed with their packs, and after -topping the hill, should return, for a consideration, to assist the -asses. None, however, reappearing, when the sun had risen a spear’s -length we set out, hugging the hill-flanks, with deep ravines yawning on -the right. Presently after passing through a clear forest of tall -scattered trees, between whose trunks were visible on both sides in -perspective, far below, long rolling tracts of well-wooded land broken -by ravines and cut by water-courses, we arrived at the foot of a steep -hill. The ascent was a kind of ramp, composed of earth-steps, clods -bound by strong tenacious roots, and thickly strewn with blocks of -schiste, micacious grit, and a sandstone showing the presence of iron. -The summit of this “kloof” was ascertained to rise 2,235 feet above -sea-level. It led to an easy descent along the flank of a hill -commanding on the left hand, below a precipitous foreground, a fine -bird’s-eye view of scattered cone and wavy ridge rising and falling in a -long roll, and on a scale decreasing till they settled into a line of -hazy-blue horizon, which had all the effect of a circumambient ocean. We -reached the remains of a kraal on the summit of a dwarf hill called -Mfu’uni, from the abundance of the Mfu’u tree, which bears an edible -apple externally like the smallest “crab,” but containing a stone of -inordinate proportions: below the encamping ground the Pagazi found a -runnel of pure water, which derived its name from the station. In former -times Mfu’uni was a populous settlement; the kidnapping parties from the -coast, and especially the filibusters of Whinde, have restored it to the -fox and the cynhyæna, its “old inhabitants.” I spent a sleepless night -in watching each star as it sank and set in its turn, piercing with a -last twinkle the thin silhouette of tall trees that fringed the hilly -rim of the horizon, and in admiring the hardness of the bull-headed -Mabruki, as he lay half-roasted by the fire and half-frozen by the cold -southern gale. - -Rations had been issued at K’hutu to all hands for three days, the time -in which they expected to make the principal provisioning-place, -“Muhama.” They had consumed, as usual, their stores with the utmost -possible quickness; it was our fifth day, and Muhama was still a long -march distant. On the 13th August, therefore, in that hot haste which -promises cold speed, we loaded at dawn, and ascended the last step of -the pass by an easy path. The summit was thickly wooded; the hills were -crowned with trees; the ravines were a mass of tangled verdure; and from -the Dub (_Cynodon dactylon_, a nutritive and favourite food for cattle -in India) and other grasses arose a sickening odour of decay. A Scotch -mist, thick and raw, hung over the hill-tops, and about 10 P.M. a fiery -outburst of sunshine told severely upon hungry and fever-stricken men. -From the level table-summit of the range the route descended rapidly at -first, but presently stretching out into gentle slopes, totally unlike -the abrupt eastern or seaward face of the mountains: I counted twelve -distinct rises and fifteen falls, separated by tree-clad lines of -half-dried nullahs, which were choked with ill-savoured weeds. We halted -every quarter of an hour to raise and reload the asses; when on the -ground, they were invariably abandoned by the donkey-men. My companion’s -bedding was found near the path, where it had been left by its porter, a -slave given at Zungomero to Muinyi Wazira by his drunken brother. The -fellow had been sworn by his mganga, or medicine-man, not to desert, and -he had respected his oath for the long length of a week. A dispute with -another man, however, had irritated him: he quietly threw his burden, -and ran down the nearest steep, probably to fall into the hands of the -Wakwivi. As the rain-catching peaks were left behind, the slopes of dry -soil began to show sunburnt herbage and tufty grass. Signs of lions -appeared numerous, and the cactaceous and aloetic plants that live on -arid soil again met the eye. About noon we forded the little Zonhwe -River, a stream of sweet water here flowing westward, in a bed of mire -and grass, under high banks bearing a dense bush. Two hours afterwards I -suddenly came upon the advance-guard, halted, and the asses unloaded, in -a dry water-course, called in the map, from our misadventure, “Overshot -Nullah.” A caravan of Wanyamwezi had misdirected them, Muinyi Wazira had -in vain warned them of their error, he was overruled by Kidogo, and the -Baloch had insisted upon camping at the first place where they expected -to find a spring. Like all soft men, they were most impatient of thirst, -and nothing caused so much grumbling and discontent as the cry of “Maji -mb’hali!” (water is far!) That night, therefore, after a long march of -fifteen miles, they again slept supperless. - -On the 14th of August we loaded early, and through spitting rains from -the south-east hills we marched back for two hours from the Overshot -Nullah to Zonhwe, the small and newly-built settlement which we had -missed on the preceding day. Several of the porters had disappeared -during the night. Men were sent in all directions for provisions, which -came in, however, slowly and scantily; and the noise made by the -slaves--they were pulling down Said bin Salim’s hut, which had -accidentally caught fire--frightened away the country-people. We were, -therefore, detained in this unwholesome spot for two days. - -Zonhwe was the turning-point of the Expedition’s difficulties. Another -ass had died, reducing the number to twenty-three, and the Baloch, at -first contented with two, doubled their requirements, and on the 14th -August took a fifth, besides placing all their powder upon our -hard-worked animals. I therefore proposed to the Jemadar that the cloth, -the beads, and the other similar luggage of his men, should be packed, -sealed up, and inserted into the porters’ loads, of which several had -shrunk to half-weight. He probably thought the suggestion a ruse on my -part to discover the means by which their property had almost trebled -its quantity; his men, moreover, had become thoroughly weary of a -journey where provisions were not always obtainable, and they had -persuaded themselves that Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s decease had left me -without support from the government of Zanzibar. After a priming with -opium, the monocular returned and reported that his men refused to open -their baggage, declaring their property to be “on their own heads.” -Whilst I was explaining the object of the measure, the escort appeared -in mass, and, with noise sufficient for a general action, ostentatiously -strewed their old clothes upon the ground, declaring that at Zanzibar -they were honourable men, and boasting that the Baloch were entrusted -with lacs of dollars by the Sayyid Said. Again I offered reasons, which, -as is the wont of the world in such cases, served only to make them more -hopelessly unreasonable. The Jemadar accused me of starving the party. I -told him not to eat abominations, upon which, clapping hand to hilt, he -theatrically forbade me to repeat the words. Being prostrated at the -time by fever, I could only show him how little dangerous he was by -using the same phrase half a dozen times. He then turned fiercely upon -the timid Said bin Salim, and having safely vented the excess of his -wrath, he departed to hold a colloquy with his men. - -The debate was purposely conducted in so loud a tone that every word -reached my ears. Khudabakhsh, from first to last my evil genius and the -mainspring of all mischief, threatened to take “that man’s life,” at the -risk of chains for the remainder of his days. Another opined, that “in -all Nazarenes there is no good.” All complained that they had no -“hishmat” (respect!), no food, and, above everything, no meat. - -Presently Said bin Salim was deputed by them to state that for the -future they would require one sheep per diem--men who, when at Zanzibar, -saw flesh probably once a year on the Eed. This being inadmissible, they -demanded three cloths daily instead of one. I would willingly have given -them two, as long as provisions continued scarce and dear, but the shade -of concession made them raise the number to four. They declared that in -case of refusal they would sleep at the village, and on the next day -would return to Zanzibar. Receiving a contemptuous answer, they marched -away in a body, noisily declaring that they were going to make instant -preparation for departure. - -Such a proceeding on the part of several of these mercenaries was -inexcusable. They had been treated with kindness, and even indulgence. -They had hitherto never complained, simply because they had no cause for -complaint. One man, Ismail, who suffered from dysentery, had been -regularly supplied with food cooked by the Goanese; and even while we -dragged along our fevered frames on foot, he was allowed to ride an ass. -Yet the recreant never attempted a word of dissuasion, and deserted with -the rest. - -After the disappearance of the Baloch, the Sons of Ramji were summoned. -I had privily ascertained from Said bin Salim the opinions of these men -concerning their leader: they said but little evil, complaining -principally of the Englishman’s “heat,” and that he was not wholly ruled -by their rascalities, whereas the Baloch in their private confabs never -failed to indulge in the choicest of Oriental Billingsgate. The slaves, -when they heard the state of the case, cheerfully promised to stand by -us, but on the same evening, assembled by Kidogo, they agreed to follow -the example of the escort on the first justifiable occasion. I did not -learn this till some days afterwards, and even if I had been told it on -the spot, it would have mattered little. My companion and I had made up -our minds, in case of the escort and the slaves deserting, to bury our -baggage, and to trust ourselves in the hands of the Wanyamwezi porters. -The storm, however,--a _brutum fulmen_--blew over with only noise. - -A march was ordered for the next day--the 17th August. As the asses were -being loaded, appeared the one-eyed Jemadar, with Greybeard Musa and -Darwaysh, looking more crestfallen and foolish than they had ever looked -before. They took my hand with a polite violence, begged suppliantly for -a paper of dismissal to “cover their shame,” and declared that, so far -from deserting me, I was deserting them. As this required no reply, I -mounted and rode on. - -The path fell easily westwards down a long grassy and jungly incline, -cut by several water-courses. About noon, I lay down half-fainting in -the sandy bed of the Muhama Nullah--the “Palmetto,” or “Fan-palm;” and -retaining Wazira and Mabruki, I urged the caravan forwards, that my -companion might send me back a hammock from the halting-place. Suddenly -appeared the whole body of deserters shouldering--as porters and asses -had been taken from them--their luggage, which outwardly consisted of -cloth, dirty rags, green skins, old earthen pots, and greasy gourds and -calabashes. They led me to a part of the nullah where stagnant water was -found, and showing abundant penitence, they ever and anon attempted -excuses, which were reserved for consideration. At 3 P.M., no hammock -appearing, I remounted, and pursued a path over rolling ground, with -masses of dwarf-hill flanking a low bottom, which renewed the scenery of -the “Slough of Despond”--Zungomero. Again the land, matted with putrid -grass, displayed the calabash and the hyphæna, the papaw and the -palmetto; the holcus and maize were of luxuriant dimensions, and deep -rat-holes, enlarged by the boy-hunters, broke the grassy path. I found -two little villages, inhabitated by Wangindo and Mandandu immigrants -from the vicinity of Kilwa. Then appeared on a hill-side the Kraal in -which the caravan had halted; the party had lost the road, and had been -dispersed by a swarm of wild bees, an accident even more frequent in -East Africa than in India. - -Next morning the Baloch were harangued; they professed themselves -profoundly penitent, and attributing their unsoldier-like conduct to -opium, and to the Wiswas, the temptations of Sathanas, they promised to -reform. The promise was kept till we reached Ugogi. They were, however, -always an encumbrance; they did no good beyond creating an impression, -and “making the careless Æthiopians afraid.” I saw them, it is true, in -their worst colours. They held themselves to be servants of their -prince, and as no Eastern man can or will serve two masters, they -forfeited all claim to their sole good quality--manageability. As men, -they had no stamina; after a few severe marches they murmured that - - “Famine, despair, thirst, cold, and heat, - Had done their work on them by turns.” - -Their constitutions, sapped by long residence at Zanzibar, were -subject to many ailments, and in sickness they were softer than Indian -Pariahs. Under the slightest attack of fever, they threw themselves -moaning upon the ground; they were soon deterred by the sun from -bringing up the rear, and by night they would not keep watch or ward -even when in actual danger of robbery. Notwithstanding their affectation -of military carriage their bravery was more than problematical; they -were disciplined only by their fears. As men at arms, one and all -deserved to wear the wooden spoon: I saw the whole garrison of Kaole -firing for an hour, without effect, at a shell, stuck on a stick, -distant about a dozen paces: our party expended thirty pounds of -gunpowder without bagging a pair of antelope, and it was impossible to -trust them with ammunition; when unable to sell it, they wasted it upon -small birds. Ever claiming for themselves “hishmat,” or respect, they -forgot their own proverb that “courtesy hath two heads;” they complained -that they were not seated half the day in our tents, and the being “told -to depart,” when their terribly long visits rendered the measure -necessary, was a standing grievance. Like the lower races of Orientals, -they were ever attempting to intrude, to thrust themselves forwards, to -take an ell when an inch was offered; they considered all but themselves -fools, ready to be imposed upon by the flimsiest lie, by the shallowest -artifices. Gratitude they ignored; with them a favour granted was but an -earnest of favours to come, and one refusal obliterated the trace of a -hundred largesses. Their objects in life seemed to be eating, and buying -slaves; their pleasures, drinking and intrigue. Insatiable beggars were -they; noisy, boisterous, foul-mouthed knaves, swearers “with voices like -cannons;” rude and forward in manner, low and abusive in language, so -slanderous that for want of other subjects they would calumniate one -another, and requiring a periodical check to their presumption. I might -have spent the whole of my day in superintending the food of these -thirteen “great eaters and little runners.” Repeatedly warned, both by -myself and by my companion, that their insubordination would prevent our -recommending them for recompense at the end of the journey, they could -not check repeated ebullitions of temper. Before arrival at the coast -they seemed to have made up their minds that they had not fulfilled the -conditions of reward. After my departure from Zanzibar, however, they -persuaded Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s successor to report officially to the -Government of Bombay “the claims of these men, the hardships they -endured, and the fidelity and perseverance they showed!” - -At Muhama I halted three days, a delay which generally occurred before -long desert marches for which provisions are required. On the first, -Kidogo would bring about sixty pounds of grain; on the second, he would -disperse his men throughout the villages, and procure the 300 pounds -required for five marches; and on the third, he would cause it to be -husked and pounded, so as to be ready for the morrow. Three up-caravans, -containing a total of about 150 men, suffering severely from small-pox, -here passed us. One was commanded by Khalfan bin Muallim Salim and his -brother Id, coast Arabs, whom we afterwards met at two places. He told -me several deliberate falsehoods about the twenty-two porters that were -to follow us, for instance, that he had left them, halted by disease, at -Kidunda, in the maritime region, under the command of one Abdullah bin -Jumah, and thus he led me to expect them at a time when they had not -even been engaged. He and his men also spread reports in Ugogo and other -places where the people are peculiarly suspicious concerning the magical -and malignant powers of the “whites;” in fact, he showed all the bad -spirit of his bastard blood. At Muhama, the furthest point westward to -which the vuli or autumnal rains extend, the climate was still that of -the Rufuta Range, foggy, misty mornings, white rags of cloudbank from -the table-cloths outspread upon the heights, clear days, with hot suns -and chilling south winds, and raw dewy nights. I again suffered from -fever; the attack, after lasting seven days, disappeared, leaving, -however, hepatic complications, which having lasted uninterruptedly ten -months, either wore themselves out, or yielded to the action of acids, -narcotics, and stimulants tardily forwarded from Zanzibar. Here also -over-fatigue, in a fruitless shooting-excursion, combined with the -mephitic air of stagnant, weedy waters, caused a return of my -companion’s fever. - -Two other Wanyamwezi porters were laid up with small-pox. One ass died -of fatigue, whilst a second torn by a hyæna, and a third too weak to -walk, were left, together with the animal that had been stung by bees, -in charge of Mpambe, headman of the Wangindo. Being now reduced to the -number of nineteen beasts, I submitted to Said bin Salim the -advisability of leaving behind wire and ammunition, either cached in the -jungle, as is the custom of these lands, or entrusted to the headman. -The Arab approved; Kidogo, however, dissented. I took the opinion of the -latter, he was positive that the effects once abandoned would never be -recovered, and that the headman, who appeared a kind of cunning idiot, -was not to be trusted. Some months afterwards I commissioned an Arab -merchant, who was marching towards the coast, to recover the asses left -in the charge of Mpambe; the latter refused to give them up, thus -proving the soundness of Kidogo’s judgment. - -Having collected with difficulty--the land was sun-cracked, and the -harvest-store had been concealed by the people--some supplies, but -scarcely sufficient for the long desert tract, we began, on the 21st of -August, to cross the longitudinal plain that gently shelving westward -separates the Rufuta from the second, or Mukondokwa Range. The plain was -enclosed on all sides by low lines of distant hill, and cut by deep -nullahs, which gave more than the usual amount of trouble. The tall -Palmyra (_Borassus Flabelliformis_), whose majestic bulging column -renders it so difficult to climb, was a novel feature in the scenery. -This tree, the Mvumo of East Africa, and the Deleb-palm of the Upper -Nile, is scattered through the interior, extending to the far south. On -this line it is more common in Western Unyamwezi, where, and where only, -an intoxicating toddy is drawn from the cut frond, than elsewhere. The -country abounded in game, but we were both too weak to work--my -companion, indeed, was compelled to lag behind--and the Baloch, to whom -the guns were lent, returned empty-handed. Sign of the Mbogo (_Bos -Caffer_) here appeared; it is general in East Africa, especially upon -the river plains where water abounds. These wild cattle are fine -animals, somewhat larger than the common-sized English bullock, with -uniform dun skins, never parti-coloured like the tame herds, and with -thick black-brown horns, from twelve to thirteen inches broad at the -base, diverging outwards, and incurved at the points, which in large -specimens are distant about three feet from each other; they are -separated by a narrow channel, and this in age becomes a solid mass of -bone. The Mbogo is as dull of comprehension as it is fierce and -powerful; affecting particular spots, it will often afford several -chances of a successful shot to the Fundi--Shikari, or Chasseur--of a -caravan: the Africans kill it with arrows. The flesh, though considered -heating and bilious, is eaten, and the hide is preferred for thongs and -reins to that of the tame animal. - -The approach to the kraal was denoted by a dead level of dry, caked, and -cracked mud, showing the subsidence of an extensive inundation. We -passed a large camping-ground, affected by down-caravans, on the near -side of the Makata, a long river-like “tank,” whose lay is E. by N. The -oozy banks of this water, which is said to flow after rains into the -Mukondokwa River, are fringed with liliaceous and other large aquatic -plants; the water, though dark, is potable. After fording the tank, -which was then breast-deep, we found on the further side the kraal used -by porters of up-caravans, who sensibly avoid commencing the day with -hard labour, and who fear that a sudden fall of rain might compel them -to intempestive halts. In such places, throughout the country, there are -two distinct khambi, one on each side of the obstacle, whether this be a -river, a pass, or a populous clearing; in the latter case, caravans -unload at the farther end of the cultivation, prepared to escape from a -fray into the jungle, without running the gauntlet of the villages. That -evening I tried to reduce the ever-increasing baggage of the sons of -Ramji, who added to the heaps piled upon the wretched asses, now -burdened with rations for several days, their drums and sleeping-hides, -and their cocks and hens, whilst they left the beds and the -cooking-utensils of the Goanese upon the ground. They informed me that -if our animals could not carry their property, they could not drive our -animals. The reply was significant. With some exertion of the “rascally -virtue”--Prudence--I retired. - -The night was disturbed only by mosquitoes. These piping pests, however, -are less troublesome in this part of East Africa than might be expected -from the nature and the position of the country, and the bite has little -venom compared with those of the Mozambique, or even of Western India. -The common culex is a large variety, of brownish or dun colour; its -favourite breeding-places are the backwaters on the banks of rivers, and -the margins of muddy pools, and upon the creeks of the maritime regions, -and the Central Lakes. - -Pursuing our march on the next day, I witnessed a curious contrast in -this strange African nature, which is ever in extremes, and where -extremes ever meet, where grace and beauty are seldom seen without a -sudden change to a hideous grotesqueness. A splendid view charmed me in -the morning. Above lay a sky of purest azure, flaked with fleecy -opal-tinted vapours floating high in the empyrean, and catching the -first roseate smiles of the unrisen sun. Long lines, one bluer than the -other, broken by castellated crags and towers of most picturesque form, -girdled the far horizon; the nearer heights were of a purplish-brown, -and snowy mists hung like glaciers about their folds. The plain was a -park in autumn, burnt tawny by the sun, patched with a darker hue where -the people were firing the grass--a party was at work merrily, as if -preparing for an English harvest-home--to start the animals, to promote -the growth of a young crop, and, such is the popular belief, to attract -rain. Calabashes, Palmyras, Tamarinds, and clumps of evergreen trees -were scattered over the scene, each stretching its lordly arms over -subject circlets of deep dew-fed verdure. Here the dove cooed loudly, -and the guinea-fowl rang its wild cry, whilst the peewit chattered in -the open stubble, and a little martin, the prettiest of its kind, -contrasted by its nimble dartings along the ground with the condor -wheeling slowly through the upper air. The most graceful of animals, the -zebra and the antelope, browsed in the distance: now they stood to gaze -upon the long line of porters, then, after leisurely pacing, with -retrospective glances, in an opposite direction, they halted motionless -for a moment, faced about once more to satiate curiosity, and lastly, -terrified by their own fancy, they bounded in ricochets over the plain. - -About noon the fair scene vanished as if by enchantment. We suddenly -turned northwards into a tangled mass of tall fetid reeds, rank jungle -and forest, with its decaying trunks encroaching upon the hole-pierced -goat-track that zigzaged towards the Myombo River. This perennial stream -rises, according to the guides, in an elevation opposite to the -highlands of Dut’humi. It is about fifty feet broad at the ford, -breast-deep, and the swift brown waters swirl under a canopy of the -trees whose name it bears. The “Myombo” is a fine specimen of African -timber, apparently unknown to the people of Zanzibar, but extending -almost from the coast to the Lake Regions. The flower is greenish, with -the overpowering smell of the Indian jasmines; the fruit is a large pod, -containing ten or twelve long hard acorns, of a brown-black colour, set -in cups which resemble red sealing-wax. The coarse bark is used for -building huts and kraals, the inner fibre for “bast” and ropes, and the -wood makes what Easterns call a hot fire, lasting long, and burning well -out. After the fiery sun and the dry atmosphere of the plains, the -sudden effect of the dank and clammy chill, the result of exceeding -evaporation, under the impervious shades that line the river banks, was -overpowering. In such places one feels as if poisoned by miasma; a -shudder runs through the frame; and a cold perspiration, like the -prelude for a fainting-fit, breaks from the brow. Unloading the asses, -and fording the stream, we ascended the left bank, and occupied a kraal, -with fires still smoking, on its summit. Though another porter was left -behind with small-pox, I had little difficulty with the luggage on this -march: the more I worked the men, the harder they worked. Besides, they -seldom fell sick on the road, though often prostrated when halting, a -phenomenon which my companion explained by their hard eating and little -exercise when stationary, and which Said bin Salim more mercifully -attributed to the fatigue and exposure of the journey taking effect when -the excitement had passed away. - -At dawn on the 23rd of August we resumed our journey, and in 4^{hrs} 30′ -concluded the transit of the lateral plain, which separates the Rufuta -from the Mukondokwa Range. The path wound over a wintry land, green with -vegetation only in the vicinity of water. After struggling through a -forest of canes, we heard a ngoma, or large drum, which astonished us, -as we had not expected to find a village. Presently, falling into a -network of paths, we lost our way. After long wandering we came upon a -tobacco-field which the Baloch and the sons of Ramji had finished -stripping, and conducted by some Wanyamwezi who had delayed returning to -guide us, in order to indulge their love for drumming and plundering, we -arrived at the débris of a once flourishing village of Wasagara, called -Mbumi from its headman. A pitiable scene here presented itself. The huts -were torn and half-burnt, and the ground was strewed with nets and -drums, pestles and mortars, cots and fragments of rude furniture; and -though no traces of blood were observed, it was evident that a Commando -had lately taken place there. Said bin Salim opined this ruin to be the -work of Khalfan bin Salim, the youth who had preceded us from Muhama; -ever suspicious, he saw in it a plan adopted by the coast-Arab in order -to raise against us the people of the mountains. Kidogo, observing that -the damage was at least ten days’ old, more acutely attributed it to the -Moslem kidnappers of Whinde, who, aided by the terrible Kisabengo, the -robber-chief of Ukami, near K’hutu, harry the country with four or five -hundred guns. Two of the wretched villagers were seen lurking in the -jungle, not daring to revisit the wreck of their homes. Here again the -Demon of Slavery will reign over a solitude of his own creation. Can it -be that, by some inexplicable law, where Nature has done her best for -the happiness of mankind, man, doomed to misery, must work out his own -unhappiness? That night was spent at the deserted village by our men in -drumming, singing, and gleaning all that Khalfan’s gang had left; they -were, moreover, kept awake by fear lest they might be surprised by the -remnants of the villagers. - -Late in the morning of the 24th of August, after losing another ass, -torn by a cynhyæna, we followed the path that leads from Mbumi along the -right bank of the Mukondokwa River to its ford. The marcescent -vegetation, and the tall, stiff, and thick-stalked grass, dripped with -dew, which struck cold as a freezing-mixture. The path was slippery with -mud, and man and beast were rendered wild by the cruel stings of a small -red ant and a huge black pismire. The former cross the road in dense -masses like the close columns of an army. They are large-headed, showing -probably that they are the defenders of the republic, and that they -perform the duties of soldiers in their excursions. Though they cannot -spring, they show great quickness in fastening themselves to the foot or -ankle as it brushes over them. The pismire, known to the people as the -“chungu-fundo,” or “siyafu” from the Arabic “siyaf,” is a horse-ant, -about an inch in length, whose bulldog-like head and powerful mandibles -enable it to destroy rats and mice, lizards and snakes. It loves damp -places upon the banks of rivers and stagnant waters; it burrows but -never raises hills, and it appears scattered for miles over the paths. -Like the other species, it knows neither fear nor sense of fatigue; it -rushes to annihilation without hesitating, and it cannot be expelled -from a hut except by fire or boiling water. Its bite, which is the -preamble to its meal, burns like a pinch with a red-hot needle; and when -it sets to work, twisting itself round and “accroupi” in its eagerness -for food, it may be pulled in two without relaxing its hold. The -favourite food of this pismire is the termite: its mortal enemy is a -large ginger-coloured ant, called from its painful wound “maji m’oto,” -or “hot-water.” In this foul jungle our men also suffered severely from -the tzetze. This fly, the torment of Cape travellers, was limited, by -Dr. Livingstone, to the regions south of the Zambezi river. A specimen, -brought home by me and submitted to Mr. Adam White, of the British -Museum, was pronounced by him to be a true Glossina morsitans, and Mr. -Petherick has fixed its limits about eight degrees north of the equator. -On the line followed by the Expedition, the tzetze was found extending -from Usagara westward as far as the Central Lakes; its usual habitat is -the jungle-strip which encloses each patch of cultivated ground, and in -the latter it is rarely seen. It has more persistency of purpose even -than the Egyptian fly, and when beaten off it will return half a dozen -times to the charge; it cannot be killed except by a smart blow, and its -long sharp proboscis draws blood even through a canvas hammock. It is -not feared by the naked traveller; the sting is as painful as that of an -English horsefly, and leaves a lasting trace, but this hard-skinned -people expect no evil consequences from it. In the vicinity of Kilwa it -was heard of under the name of “kipanga,” the “little sword.” It is -difficult to conceive the purpose for which this plague was placed in a -land so eminently fitted for breeding cattle and for agriculture, which -without animals cannot be greatly extended, except as an exercise for -human ingenuity to remove. Possibly at some future day, when the country -becomes valuable, the tzetze may be exterminated by the introduction of -some insectivorous bird, which will be the greatest benefactor that -Central Africa ever knew. - -After about an hour’s march, the narrow tunnel in the jungle--it was so -close that only one ass could be led up and unloaded at a -time--debouched upon the Mukondokwa ford. The view was not unpleasing. -The swift brown stream was broadened by a branch-islet in its upper bed -to nearly a hundred yards, and its margins were fringed with rushes -backed by a screen of dense verdure and tall trees which occupied the -narrow space between the water and the hills. The descent and the -landing-place were equally bad. Slipping down the steep miry bank the -porters sank into the river breast-deep, causing not a little damage to -their loads: the ford now wetted the waist then the knee, and the -landing-place was a kind of hippopotamus-run of thick slushy mud, -floored with roots and branches, snags and sawyers, and backed by a -quagmire rendered passable only by its matwork of tough grass-canes laid -by their own weight. Having crossed over on our men’s backs, we ascended -a little rise and lay down somewhat in the condition of travelling Manes -fresh from the transit of the Styx. I ordered back Kidogo with a gang of -porters to assist Said bin Salim who was bringing up the rear: he -promised to go but he went the wrong way--forwards. Resuming our march -along the river’s left or northern bank, we wound along the shoulders -and the bases of hills, sometimes ascending the spurs of stony and -jungly eminences, where the paths were unusually rough and precipitous, -at other times descending into the stagnant lagoons, the reedy and rushy -swamps, and the deep bogs which margin the stream. After a total of six -hours we reached a kraal situated upon the sloping ground at the foot of -the northern walls which limit the grassy river basin: through this the -Mukondokwa flows in a dark turbid stream now narrowed to about forty -feet. The district of “Kadetamare” was formerly a provisioning station -where even cattle were purchaseable, a rare exception to the rule in the -smaller settlements of Usagara. I at once sent men to collect rations, -none, however, were procurable: meeting a small party that were bringing -grain from Rumuma, they learned that there was a famine in the land. - -At Kadetamare the only pedometer, a patent watch-shaped instrument, -broke down, probably from the effects of the climate. Whilst carried by -my companion it gave a steady exaggerative rate, but being set to the -usual military pace of 30 inches, when transferred to the person of -“Seedy Bombay” and others, it became worse than useless, sometimes -showing 25 for 13 miles. I would suggest to future explorers in these -regions, as the best and the most lasting means of measuring distances, -two of the small wheelbarrow perambulators--it is vain to put trust in a -single instrument--which can each be rolled on by one man. And when -these are spoilt or stolen, timing with the watch, and a correct -estimate of the walking rate combined with compass-bearings, the mean of -the oscillations being taken when on the march, would give a -“dead-reckoning,” which checked by latitudes, as often as the cloudy -skies permit, and by a few longitudes at crucial stations, would afford -materials for a map approximating as nearly to correctness as could be -desired in a country where a “handful of miles” little matters. The -other instruments, though carefully protected from the air, fared not -better than the pedometer: with three pocket-chronometers and a valuable -lever-watch, we were at last reduced to find time by a sixpenny -sun-dial. Before the first fortnight after our second landing in Africa -had elapsed, all these instruments, notwithstanding the time and trouble -devoted to them by my companion, at Zanzibar, failed in their ratings -and became useless for chronometric longitudes. Two of them (Ed. Baker, -London, No. 863, and Barraud, London, No. 2/537), stopped without -apparent reason. A third, a first-rate article (Parkinson and Frodsham, -No. 2955), issued to me from the Royal Observatory Greenwich, at the -kind suggestion of Capt. Belcher, of the Admiralty, had its glass broken -and its second-hand lost by the blunderer Gaetano: we remedied that evil -by counting the ticks without other trouble than that caused by the odd -number,--5 to 2 seconds. This instrument also summarily struck work on -the 9th November, 1858, the day before we intended to have “made a night -of it” at Jiwe la Mkoa. This may serve as a warning for future -travellers to avoid instruments so delicate that a jolt will disorder -them--the hair-spring of the lever watch was broken by my companion in -jumping out of a canoe--and which no one but a professional can attempt -to repair. A box chronometer carried in a “petarah” by a pole swung -between two men so as to preserve its horizontality, might outlast the -pocket-instruments, yet we read in Capt. Owens celebrated survey of the -African coasts, that out of nine not one kept rate without fluctuations. -The best plan would be to purchase half-a-dozen sound second-hand -watches, carefully inspected and cleaned, and to use one at a time; if -gold-mounted, they would form acceptable presents to the Arabs, and -ultimately would prove economical by obviating the necessity of parting -with more valuable articles. - -The break-down of the last chronometer disheartened us for a time. -Presently when our brains, addled by sun and sickness, had recovered -tone by a return to the Usagara sanitarium, we remembered a rough and -ready succedaneum for instruments. I need scarcely tell the reader that, -unhappily for travellers, the only means of ascertaining the longitude -of a place is by finding the difference between the local and Greenwich -times, and that this difference of time with certain corrections is -converted into distance of space. We split a 4 oz. rifle-ball, inserted -into it a string measuring 39 inches from the point of suspension to the -centre of the weight, and fixed it by hammering the halves together. The -loose end of the cord was attached to a three-edged file as a pivot, and -this was lashed firmly to the branch of a tree sheltered as much as -possible from the wind. Local time was ascertained with a sextant by -taking the altitude of a star or a planet; Greenwich time by a distance -between the star or planet and the moon, and the vibrations of our rude -pendulum did all that a watch could do, by registering the seconds that -elapsed between the several observations. - -I am somewhat presuming upon the subject, but perhaps it may here be -better to chronicle the accidents which happened to the rest of our -instruments. We had two Schmalcalder’s compasses (H. Barron & Co., 26, -Oxenden Street), which, when the paste-board faces had been acclimatized -and no longer curled up against their glasses, did good service; one of -them was trodden upon by my companion, the other by a sailor during a -cruise on the lake. We returned with a single instrument, the gift of my -old friend Lieut.-General Monteith; it had surveyed Persia, and -outlasting two long excursions into Eastern Africa, it still outlives -and probably will outlive many of the showy articles now supplied by the -trade. Finally, a ship’s compass, mounted in gimbals for boat-work and -indented for upon the Engineer’s Stores, Bombay, soon became lumber, its -oscillations were too sluggish to be useful. - -We left Kadetamare on the 25th August, to ascend the fluviatile valley -of the Mukondokwa. According to the guides this stream is the upper -course of the Kingani River, with which it anastomoses in Uzaramo(?) It -cuts its way through the chain to which it gives a name, by a -transversal valley perpendicular to the lay, and so conveniently -disposed that the mountains seem rather to be made for their drain than -the drain for its mountains. The fluviatile valley is apparently girt on -all sides by high peaks, with homesteads smoking and cattle grazing on -all sides. Crippled by the night-cold that rose from the river-bed, and -then wet through with the dew that dripped from the tall grass, we -traversed, within ear-shot of the frightened villagers who hailed one -another from the heights, some fields of grain and tobacco that had been -lately reaped. After an hour and a-half of marching we arrived at the -second ford of the Mukondokwa. Receiving less drainage than in the lower -bed, the stream was narrower and only knee-deep; the landing-place of -sloppy mud caused, however, many accidents to the asses, and on -inspecting our stores a few days afterwards we found them all soft and -mildewed. The reader will wonder that on these occasions we did not -personally inspect the proceedings of our careless followers. The fact -is we were physically and morally incapacitated for any exertion beyond -balancing ourselves upon the donkeys; at Kadetamare I had laid in -another stock of fever, and my companion had not recovered from his -second severe attack. After fording the Mukondokwa we followed the right -bank through cultivation, grass, and trees, up a gradually broadening -valley peculiarly rich in field-rats. The path then crossing sundry -swamps and nullahs, hill-spurs and “neat’s tongues,” equally rough -thorny and precipitous, presently fell into a river-reach where pools of -water, breast deep, and hedged in by impassable jungle and long runs of -slushy mire festering in a furious sun, severely tried the porters and -asses. Thence the road wound under the high hills to the South, whose -flanks were smoking with extensive conflagrations, whilst on the -opposite or left bank of the river, the opening valley displayed a -forest of palms and tall trees. About 2 P.M. I reached the ground, a -hutless circle of thorns, called by our people Muinyi: the rear-guard, -however, did not straggle in before 6 P.M., and the exhaustion of the -asses--seventeen now remained--rendered a day’s halt necessary. - -During the last two marches the Baloch had been, they declared, without -grain; the sons of Ramji and the porters, more provident, had reserved a -small store, moreover they managed to procure a sheep from the next -station. On the morrow a party, headed by Muinyi Wazira, set out to -forage among the mountain settlements, bearing no arms in token of -peace. About noon they returned, and reported that at the sight of -strangers the people had taken to flight, after informing the party that -they were in the habit of putting to death all Murungwana or freemen -found trespassing off the road; however, that on this occasion the lives -of the strangers should be spared. But Ambari, a slave belonging to Said -bin Salim, presently tattled the true tale. The gallant foragers had not -dared to enter the village; when the war-cry flew from hamlet to hamlet, -and all the Wasagara, even the women and children, seized their spears -and stood to arms, they at once threw themselves into the jungle and -descended the hill with such unseemly haste that most of them bore the -wounds of thorns and stones. Two of Baloch, Riza and Belok, lit their -matches and set out proudly to provide themselves by their prowess; they -were derided by Kidogo: “Verily, O my brethren! ye go forth to meet men -and not women!” and after a hundred yards’ walk they took second -thoughts and returned. The Mukondokwa Mountains, once a garden, have -become a field for fray and foray; cruelty and violence have brutalised -the souls of the inhabitants, and they have learned, as several -atrocities committed since our passage through the country prove, to -wreak their vengeance upon all weaker than themselves. - -On the 27th August we resumed our way under fresh difficulties. The last -march had cost us another ass. Muhinna, a donkey-driver, complaining of -fever, had been mounted by Kidogo without my permission, and had -summarily departed, thus depriving us of the services of a second, -whilst all were in a state of weakness which compelled them to walk at -their slowest pace. On the other hand, the men of the caravan, hungry -and suffering from raw south-east wind and the chilly cold, the result -not of low temperature but of humidity and extensive evaporation, were -for pushing forward as fast as possible. The path was painful, winding -along the shoulders of stony and bushy hills, with rough re-entering -angles, and sometimes dipping down into the valley of the Mukondokwa, -which, hard on the right, spread out in swamps, nearly two miles broad, -temporary where they depended upon rain, and permanent where their low -levels admitted of free infiltration. On the steep eminences to the left -of the path rose tall and thick the thorny aloetic and cactaceous growth -of arid Somaliland; the other side was a miniature of the marine -lagoons, the creeks, and the bayous of green Zanzibar. After three hours -of hard marching, the labour came to its crisis, where the path, -breaking off at a right angle from the river, wound up an insecure -ladder of loose earth and stones, which caused several porters and one -ass to lose their footing, and to roll with their loads through the -thorny bushes of the steep slope, near the off side, into the bed of -rushes below. Then leaving the river-valley on the right, we fell into a -Fiumara of deep loose sand, about a hundred yards broad, and occupying -the centre of a widening table-land. The view now changed, and the -“wady” afforded pleasant glimpses of scenery. Its broad, smooth and -glistening bed, dinted by the footprints of cattle, was bounded by low -perpendicular banks of stiff red clay, margined by mighty masses of -brilliant green tamarinds, calabashes, and sycomores, which stood -sharply out against the yellow stubbles beyond them. The Mkuyu or -sycomore in Eastern Africa is a magnificent tree; the bole, composed of -a pillared mass, averages from eight to ten feet in height, and the huge -branches, thatched with thick cool foliage, extend laterally, -overshadowing a circle whose perimeter, when the sun is vertical, -sometimes attains five hundred feet. The fruit, though eaten by -travellers, is a poor berry, all rind and seeds, with a slender title to -the name of fig. There are apparently two varieties of this tree, -resembling each other in general appearance, but differing in details. -The Mtamba has a large, heavy, and fleshy leaf; its fruit is not smooth -like that of the Mkuyu, but knobbed with green excrescences, and the -bole is loftier than the common sycomore’s trunk. The roots of the older -trees, rising above the earth, draw up a quantity of mould which, when -the wood is decayed or destroyed, forms the dwarf mounds that in many -parts encumber the surface of the country. Traces of extensive -cultivation--fields of bajri or panicum, the staple cereal which here -supplants the normal African holcus, or Kafir corn, and plantations of -luxuriant maize, of beans, of the vetch known as the voiandzeia -subterranea, of tobacco, and other plants--showed that this district is -beyond the reach of the coast-kidnappers. From the rising ground on the -left hand we heard the loud tattoo of the drum. The Baloch, choosing to -be alarmed, fired several shots, much to the annoyance of the irascible -Kidogo, who had laid down as a law that waste of powder in this region -was more likely to invite than to prevent an attack. As we ascended the -Fiumara it narrowed rapidly, and its head was encumbered with heaps of -boulders from which sprang a runnel of the sweetest water. The -camping-ground was upon the left bank of the bed. The guide called it -Ndábi, probably from a small gnarled tree here abundant, bearing a fruit -like a pale red currant, which tastes like sweetened gum dissolved in -dirty water. I lost no time in sending for provisions, which were scarce -and dear. Bombay failed in procuring a sheep, though the Baloch, by -paying six cloths, were more fortunate. One of Kidogo’s principles of -action, in which he was abetted by Said bin Salim, was to prevent our -buying provisions, however necessary, at high prices, fearing lest the -tariff thus established might become an “ada,” a precedent or custom for -future travellers, himself and others. We were, therefore, fain to -content ourselves and our servants with a little bajri and two eggs. - -After a day’s halt at Ndabi we resumed the journey on the 29th August. -The path crossed a high and stony hill-shoulder, where the bleak raw air -caused one of the porters to lie down torpid like a frozen man. It then -stretched over gradually rising and falling ground to a dense bush of -cactaceæ and milk-bush, aloetic plants and thorns, based upon a surface -of brickdust-red. Beyond this point lay another plateau of wavy surface, -producing dwarfed and wind-wrung calabashes, and showing grain-fields -carefully and laboriously ridged with the hoe. Flocks and herds now -appeared in all directions. The ground was in some places rust-coloured, -in others dazzlingly white with a detritus of granite; mica glittered -like silver-filings in the sun, and a fine silky grass waved in the -wind, bleached clean of colour by the glowing rays. This plateau ended -in a descent with rapid slopes, over falls and steps of rock and boulder -into the basin of the Rumuma River. It is a southern influent, or a -bifurcation of the Mukondokwa, and it drains the hills to the south-west -of the Rumuma district, whereas the main stream, arising in the -highlands of the Wahumba or Wamusai, carries off the waters of the lands -on the west. Losing our way, we came upon this mountain-torrent, which -swirls through blocks and boulders under stiff banks of red earth -densely grown with brush and reeds; and to find the kraal we were -obliged to travel up the bed-side, through well-hoed fields irrigated by -raised water-courses. The khambi was badly situated in the dwarf hollow -between the river and the hills, and having lately been tenanted, as the -smoking embers showed, it was uncleanly in the extreme. It was -heart-breaking to see the asses that day. I left them to Said bin Salim, -who, with many others, did not appear till eventide. - -Rumuma is a favourite resting-place with caravans, on account of the -comparative abundance of its supplies. I halted here two whole days, to -rest and feed the starving porters, and to repair the sacks, the -pack-saddles, and the other appointments of the asses. Here, for the -first time, the country people descended in crowds from the hills, -bringing fowls, hauling along small but beautifully formed goats, lank -sheep, and fine bullocks--the latter worth twelve cloths--and carrying -on their heads basket-platters full of the Voandzeia, bajri, beans, and -the _Arachis Hypogæa_. The latter is called by the Arabs Sumbul el -Sibal, or “Monkey’s Spikenard;” on the coast, Njugu ya Nyassa; in -Unyamwezi, Karanga or K’haranga, and further west, Mayowwa or Mwanza. It -is the Bhuiphali, or “earth-fruit” of India, and the Bik’han of -Maharatta land, where it is used by cheap confectioners in the place of -almonds, whose taste it simulates. Our older Cape travellers term it the -pig-nut. The plant extends itself along the surface of the ground, and -puts forth its fruit at intervals below. It is sown before the rains, -and ripens after six months,--in the interior about June. The Arabs fry -it with cream that has been slightly salted, and employ it in a variety -of rich dishes; it affords them also a favourite oil. The Africans use -it principally on journeys. The price greatly varies according to the -abundance of the article; when moderate, about two pounds may be -purchased for a “khete” of coral beads. - -The Wasagara of Rumuma are short, black, beardless men. They wear their -hair combed off the forehead, and twisted into a fringe of little -pig-tails, which extend to the nape of the neck. Few boast of cloth, the -general body contenting themselves with a goat-skin flap somewhat like a -cobbler’s apron tied over one shoulder, as we sling a game-bag. Their -ornaments are zinc and brass earrings in rolls, which distend the -ear-lobe, bangles, or armlets of similar metal, and iron chains with -oblong links as anklets. Their arms are bows and arrows, assegais with -long lanceated heads, and bull-hide shields, three feet long by one -broad, painted black and red in perpendicular stripes. I was visited by -their Sultan Njasa, a small grizzled old man, with eyes reddened by -liquor, a wide mouth, a very thin beard, a sooty skin, and long -straggling hair, “_à la malcontent_.” He was attired in an antiquated -Barsati, or blue and red Indian cotton, tucked in at the waist, with -another thrown over his shoulders, and his neck was decked with many -strings of beads. He insisted upon making “sare” or brotherhood with -Said bin Salim, who being forbidden by his law to taste blood, made the -unconscientious Muinyi Wazira his proxy. The two brothers being seated -on the ground opposite each other, with legs well to the fore, one man -held over their heads a drawn sword, whilst another addressed to them -alternately a little sermon, denouncing death or slavery as the penalty -for proving false to the vow. Then each brother licked a little of the -other’s blood, taken with the finger from a knife-cut above the heart, -or rather where the heart is popularly supposed to be. The Sultan then -presented to the Muinyi, _in memoriam_, a neat iron chain-anklet, and -the Muinyi presented to the Sultan a little of our cloth. - -The climate of Rumuma was new to me, after the incessant rains of the -maritime valley, and the fogs and mists of the Rufuta Range. It was, -however, in extremes. At night the thermometer, under the influence of -dewy gusts, sank in the tent to 48° F., a killing temperature in these -latitudes to half-naked and houseless men. During the day the mercury -ranged between 80° and 90° F.; the sun was fiery, whilst a furious south -wind coursed through skies purer and bluer than I had ever seen in -Greece or Italy. At times, according to the people, the hill-tops are -veiled, especially in the mornings and evenings, with thick nimbus, -vapours, and spitting clouds, which sometimes extend to the plain, and -discharge heavy showers that invariably cause sickness. Here my -companion once more suffered from an attack of “liver,” brought on, he -supposed, from over-devotion to a fat bullock’s hump. Two of the -Wanyamwezi porters were seized with preliminary symptoms of small-pox, -euphuistically termed by Said bin Salim “shurua,” or chicken-pox. -Several of the slaves, including the charming Halimah, were laid up; the -worst of all, however, was Valentine, who complained of an unceasing -racking headache, whilst his puffed cheeks and dull-yellow skin gave him -the look of one newly deceased. At length, divining his complaint, he -was cupped by a Mnyamwezi porter, and he recovered after the operation -strength and appetite. - -The 2nd of September saw us _en route_ to Márengá Mk’hali, or the -“brackish water.” Fording the Rumuma above the spot where it receives -the thin supplies of the Márengá Mk’hali, we marched over stony hills -and thorny bushes, dotted with calabash and mimosa, the castor-shrub and -the wild egg-plant, and gradually rising, we passed into scattered -fields of holcus and bajri, pulse and beans. Here, for the first time, -bee-hives, called by the coast-people Mazinga, or cannons, from their -shape, hollowed cylindrical logs, closed with grass and puddle at both -ends, and provided with an oval opening in the centre, were seen hanging -to the branches of the foliaged trees. Cucumbers, water-melons, and -pumpkins grew apparently without cultivation. The water-melon, called by -the Arabs Johh, and by the Wasawahili Tikiti, flourishes throughout the -interior, where it is a favourite with the people. It is sown before the -rainy season, gathered after six months, and placed to ripen upon the -flat roofs of the villages. Like the produce of Kafir-land, it is hard, -insipid, fleshy, and full of seeds, having nothing but the name in -common with the delicious fruit of Egypt and Afghanistan. The Junsal, or -Boga, the pumpkin, is, if possible, worse than the water-melon. Its red -meat, simply boiled, is nauseously sweet; it is, however, considered -wholesome, and the people enjoy the seeds toasted, pounded, and mixed -with the “Mboga,” or wild vegetables, with which a veritable African -can, in these regions, keep soul and body together for six months. About -10 A.M., I found Khalfan’s caravan halted in a large kraal amongst the -villages, on the eastern hill above the “brackish water.” They were -loading for the march, and my men looked wistfully at the comfortable -huts; but their halt had been occasioned by small-pox, I therefore -hurried forwards across the streamlet to a wind-swept summit of an -opposite hill. The place was far from pleasant, the gusts were furious; -by night the thermometer showed 54° F., by day there was but scanty -shelter from the fiery sun, and the “Márengá Mk’hali,” which afforded -the only supplies of water, was at a considerable distance. Moreover our -umbrellas and bedding suffered severely from a destructive host of white -ants, that here became troublesome for the first time. The “Chunga -Mchwa,” or termite, abounds throughout the sweet red clay soils, and -cool damp places, avoiding heat, sand, and stone, and it acts like a -clearer and scavenger; without it, indeed, some parts of the country -would be impassable, and it is endowed with extraordinary powers of -destruction. A hard clay-bench has been drilled and pierced like a sieve -by these insects in a single night, and bundles of reeds placed under -bedding, have in a few hours been converted into a mass of mud; straps -were consumed, cloths and umbrellas were reduced to rags, and the mats -used for covering the servants’ sleeping-gear were, in the shortest -possible time, so tattered as to be unserviceable. Man revenges himself -upon the white ant, and satisfies his craving for animal food, which in -these regions becomes a principle of action,--a passion,--by boiling the -largest and fattest kind, and eating it as a relish with his insipid -ugali, or porridge. The termite appears to be a mass of live water. Even -in the driest places it finds no difficulty in making a clay-paste for -the mud-galleries, like hollow tree-twigs, with which it disguises its -approach to its prey. The phenomenon has been explained by the -conjecture that it combines by vital force the atmospheric oxygen with -the hydrogen evolved by its food. When arrived at the adult state, the -little peoples rise ready-winged, like thin curls of pipe-smoke, -generally about even-tide, from the ground. After a flight of a few -yards, the fine membranes, which apparently serve to disperse the -insects into colonies, drop off. In East Africa there is also a -semi-transparent brown ant, resembling the termite in form, but -differing in habits, and even exceeding it in destructiveness. It does -not, like its congener, run galleries up to the point of attack. Each -individual works for itself in the open air, tears the prey with its -strong mandibles, and carries it away to its hole. The cellular hills of -the termites in this country rarely rise to the height of three feet, -whereas in Somali-land they become dwarf towers, forming a conspicuous -feature in the view. - -No watch was kept by the Baloch at Márengá Mk’hali, though we were then -in the vicinity of the bandit Wahumba. On the next day we were harangued -by Kidogo, who proceeded to expound the principles that must guide us -through the unsafe regions ahead. The caravan must no longer straggle on -in its usual disorder, the van must stop short when separated from the -main body, and the rear must advance at the double when summoned by the -sound of the Barghumi, or the koodoo-horn, which acts as bugle in -Eastern Africa. I thought, at the time, that Kidogo might as well -address his admonitions to the wind, and I thought rightly. - -The route lay through the lateral plain which separates the Mukondokwa -or second, from the Rubeho or third parallel range of the Usagara -Mountains. At Márengá, Mk’hali, situated as it is under the lee of the -two eastern walls, upon which the humid N. E. and S. E. trade-winds -impinge, the eye no longer falls, as before, upon a sheet of monotonous -green, and the nose is not offended by the death-like exhalations of a -pestilent vegetation. The dew diminishes, the morning-cloud is rare upon -the hill-top, and the stratus is not often seen in the valley; rain, -moreover, seldom falls heavily, except during its single appointed -season. The climate is said to be salubrious, and the medium elevation -of the land, 2500 feet, raises it high above the fatal fever-level, -without attaining the altitudes where dysentery and pleurisy afflict the -inhabitants. For many miles beyond Márengá Mk’hali water is rarely -found. Caravans, therefore, resort to what is technically called a -“Tirikeza,” or afternoon march. In the Kisawahili, or coast-language, -“ku Tirikeza,” or “Tilikeza,” and in Kinyamwezi, “ku Witekezea,” is the -infinitive of a neuter verb signifying “to march after noon-day”; by the -Arabs it is corrupted into a substantive. Similarly the verb ku honga, -to pay “dash”, tribute, passage-money, or blackmail, becomes in the -mouths of the stranger, ku honga, or Honga. The tirikeza is one of the -severest inflictions that African travelling knows. At 11 A.M. -everything is thrown into confusion, although two or three hours must -elapse before departure; loads are bound up, kitchen-batteries are -washed and packed, tents are thrown, and stools are carried off by -fidgeting porters and excited slaves. Having drunk for the last time, -and filled their gourds for the night, the wayfarers set out when the -midday ends. The sun is far more severely felt after the sudden change -from shade, than during the morning marches, when its increase of heat -is slow and gradual. They trudge under the fireball in the firmament, -over ground seething with glow and reek, through an air which seems to -parch the eyeballs, and they endure this affliction till their shadows -lengthen out upon the ground. The tirikeza is almost invariably a -lengthy stage, as the porters wish to abridge the next morning’s march, -which leads to water. It is often bright moonlight before they arrive at -the ground, with faces torn by the thorns projecting across the jungly -path, with feet lacerated by stone and stub, and occasionally a leg -lamed by stumbling into deep and narrow holes, the work of field-rats -and of various insects. - -We left Márengá Mk’hali at 1 P.M., on the 3rd September, and in order to -impressionise a large and well-armed band of the country people that had -gathered to stare at, to criticise, and to deride us, we indulged in a -little harmless sword-play, with a vast show of ferocity and readiness -for fight. The road lay over several rough, steep, and bushy ridges, -where the wretched asses, rushing away to take advantage of a yard of -shade, caused constant delays. The Wanyamwezi animals having a great -persistency of character, could scarcely be dislodged; and when they -were, they threw their loads in pure spite. After topping a little “col” -or pass, we came in sight of an extensive basin, bounded by distant blue -hills, to which the porters pointed with a certain awe, declaring them -to be the haunts of the fierce Wahumba. A descent of the western flank -led us to a space partially cleared by burning, when the cry arose that -men were lurking about. We then plunged into a thick bush of thorny -trees, based upon a red clayey soil caked into the semblance of a rock. -Contrary to expectation, when crossing a deep nullah trending -northwards, we found a little rusty, ochreish water, in one of the cups -and holes that dented the sandstone of the soles. Thence the path, -gradually descending, fell into a coarse scrub, varied with small open -savannahs, and broken, like the rest of the road, by deep, narrow -watercourses, which carry off the waters of the southern hills to the -northern lowlands. About 6 P.M., we came upon a cleared space in a thick -thorn-jungle, where we established ourselves for the night. The near -whine of the hyæna, and the alarm of the asses, made sleep a difficulty. -The impatience and selfishness of thirst showed strongly in the Baloch. -Belok had five large gourds full of water, perhaps three gallons, yet he -would not part with a palmful to the sick Ismail. That day I was -compelled to dismiss my usual ass-leader Shahdad, the zeze-player and -fracturer of female hearts, who preferring the conversation of his -fellows, dragged the animal through thorns and alongside of trees so -artistically, that my nether garments were soon in strips. I substituted -for him Musa the Greybeard, who, after a few days, begged, with bitter -tears, to be excused. It was his habit to hurry on towards the kraal and -shade, and the slow hobble of the ass detained him a whole hour in sore -discomfort. The task was then committed to the tailor-youth Hudul, who -lost no time in declaring that I had abused him--that he was a -Baloch--that he was not an asinego. Then I tried Abdullah,--the good -young man. I dismissed him because every day brought with it a fresh -demand for cloth or beads, gourds or sandals, for a “chit” to the -Balyuz--the Consul, or a general good character as regards honesty, -virtue, and the _et ceteras_. Finally the ass was entrusted to the -bull-headed slave Mabruki, who thinking of nothing but chat with his -“brother,” Seedy Bombay, and having that curious mania for command which -seems part of every servile nature, hurried my monture so recklessly, -that earth-cracks and rat-holes caused us twain many a severe fall. My -companion had entrusted himself to Bombay, who, though he did nothing -well rarely did anything very badly. - -The 4th September began with an hour’s toil through the dense bush, to a -rapid descent over red soil and rocks, which necessitated frequent -dismounting,--no pleasant exercise after a sleepless night. Below, lay a -wide basin of rolling ground, surrounded in front by a rim of hills. It -was one of the many views which “catching the reflex of heaven,” and -losing by indistinctness the harshness of defined outline and the -deformity of individual feature, assume, viewed from afar, a peculiar -picturesqueness. Traces of extensive cultivation, flocks and herds, were -descried in the lower levels, which were a network of sandy nullahs; and -upon the rises, the regular and irregular square or oblong habitations, -called “Tembe,” were seen for the first time. Early September is, in -this region, the depth of winter. Under the burning, glaring sun, the -grass becomes white as the ground; the fields, stubbles stiff as -harrows, are stained only by the shadow of passing clouds; the trees, -except upon the nullah-banks, are gaunt and bare, the animals are -walking skeletons, and nothing seems to flourish but flies and white -ants, caltrops and grapple-plants. After crossing deep water-cuts -trending N.E. and N.N.E., we descended a sharp incline and a rough -ladder of boulders, and found a dirty and confined kraal, on the side of -a rocky khad[8] or ravine, which drains off the surplus moisture of the -westerly crags and highlands, and which affords sweet springs, that -cover the soil as far as they extend with a nutritious and succulent -grass. As this was to be a halting-place, a more than usually violent -rush was made by the Baloch, the sons of Ramji, and the porters, to -secure the best quarters. The Jemadar remaining behind with three of the -Wanyamwezi, who were unable to walk, did not arrive till after noon, and -my companion, suffering from a paroxysm of bilious fever, came in even -later. Valentine was weaker than usual, and Gaetano groaned more -frequently, “ang duk’hta”--body pains! To add other troubles, an ass had -been lost, and “Khamsin,”--No. 50--my riding-animal, had by breaking a -tooth in fighting incapacitated itself for food or drink: its feebleness -compelled me to transfer the saddle to the last of the Zanzibar -riding-asses, Siringe,--the Quarter-dollar--and Siringe, sadly -back-sore, cowering in the hams, and slipping from under me every few -minutes, showed present signs of giving in. - - [8] The Indian “khad” is the deep rocky drain in hilly countries, thus - differing from the popular idea of a “ravine,” and from the nullah, - which is a formation in more level lands. - -The basin of Inenge lies at the foot of the Rubeho or “Windy Pass,” the -third and westernmost range of the Usagara Mountains. The climate, like -that of Rumuma, is ever in extremes--during the day a furnace, and at -night a refrigerator--the position is a funnel, which alternately -collects the fiery sunbeams and the chilly winds that pour down from the -misty highlands. The villagers of the settlements overlooking the -ravine, flocked down to barter their animals and grain. Here, for the -first time since our departure from the coast, honey, clarified butter, -and, greatest boon of all, milk, fresh and sour, were procurable. The -man who has been restricted to a diet so unwholesome as holcus and -bajri, with an occasional treat of kennel-food,--broth and beans,--will -understand that the first unexpected appearance of milk, butter, and -honey formed an epoch in our journey. - -The halt was celebrated with abundant drumming and droning, which lasted -half the night; it served to cheer the spirits of the men, who had -talked of nothing the whole day but the danger of being attacked by the -Wahumba. On the next morning arrived a caravan of about 400 Wanyamwezi -porters marching to the coast, under the command of Isa bin Hijji and -three other Arab merchants. An interchange of civilities took place. The -Arabs lacking cloth could not feed their slaves and porters, who -deserted daily, imperilling a valuable investment in ivory. The -Europeans could afford a small contribution of three Gorah or pieces of -domestics: they received a present of fine white rice, a few pounds of -salt, and a goat, in exchange for a little perfumed snuff and -assafœtida, which after a peculiar infusion is applied to wounds, and -which, administered internally, is considered a remedy for many -complaints. I was allured to buy a few yards of rope, indispensable for -packing the animals. The number of our asses being reduced from thirty -to fifteen, and the porters from thirty-six to thirty, it was necessary -to recruit. The Arabs sold two Wanyamwezi animals for ten dollars each, -payable at Zanzibar. One proved valuable as a riding ass, and carried me -to the Central Lake, and back to Unyanyembe: the other, though caponized -and blind on the off-side, had become by bad treatment so obstinate and -so cleverly vicious, that the Baloch called him “Shaytan yek-cham,” or -the “one-eyed fiend:” he carried, besides sundries, four boxes of -ammunition, weighing together 160 pounds, and even under these he danced -like a deer. Nothing was against him but his character: after a few days -he was cast adrift in the wilderness of Mgunda M’khali, because no man -dared to load and lead him. Knowing that the Arab merchants upon this -line hold it a point of honour to discourage, by refusing a new -engagement, the down-porters in their proclivity to desert, and -believing that it was a stranger’s duty to be even stricter than they -are, I gave most stringent orders that any fugitive porter detected in -my caravan should be sent back a prisoner to his employers. But the -Coast-Arabs and the Wasawahili ignore this commercial chivalry, and -shamelessly offer a premium to “levanters:” moreover, in these lands it -is hard to make men understand the _rapport_ between sayings and doings. -Seven or eight fellows, who secretly left the party, were sent back; -one, however, was taken on without my knowledge. Said bin Salim -persuaded the merchants to lend us the services of three Wanyamwezi, who -for sums varying from eight Shukkah to two cloths, and a coil large -enough to make three wire bracelets, undertook to carry packs as far as -Unyanyembe. Our Ras Kafilah had increased in Uzaramo his suite by the -addition of “Zawada,”--the “nice gift,” a parting present of the headman -Kizaya. She was a woman about thirty, with a black skin shining like a -patent-leather boot, a bulging brow, little red eyes, a wide mouth which -displayed a few long, strong, scattered teeth, and a figure considerably -too bulky for her thin legs, which were unpleasantly straight, like -ninepins. Her _morale_ was superior to her _physique_; she was a patient -and hard-working woman, and respectable in the African acceptation of -the term. She was at once married off to old Musangesi, one of the -donkey-men, whose nose and chin made him a caricature of our dear old -friend Punch. After detecting her in a lengthy walk, perhaps not -solitary, through the jungle, he was palpably guilty of such cruelty -that I felt compelled to decree a dissolution of the marriage. After -passing through sundry adventures she returned safely to Zanzibar, -where, for aught I know, she may still grace the harem of Said bin -Salim. At Inenge another female slave was added to the troop, in the -person of the lady Sikujui, “Don’t know,” a “mulier nigris dignissima -barris,” whose herculean person and virago manner raised her value to -six cloths and a large coil of brass wire. The channel of her upper lip -had been pierced to admit a disk of bone; her Arab master had attempted -to correct the disfigurement by scarification and the use of rock-salt, -yet the distended muscles insisted upon projecting sharply from her -countenance, like a duck’s bill, or the beak of an ornithorhyncus. This -truly African ornamentation would have supplied another instance to the -ingenious author of “Anthropometamorphosis.”[9] “Don’t know’s” morals -were frightful. She was duly espoused--as the forlorn hope of making her -an “honest woman”--to Goha, the sturdiest of the Wak’hutu porters; after -a week she treated him with a sublime contempt. She gave him first one, -then a dozen rivals; she disordered the caravan by her irregularities; -she broke every article entrusted to her charge, as the readiest way of -lightening her burden, and--“le moindre défaut d’une femme galante est -de l’être”--she deserted so shamelessly that at last Said bin Salim -disposed of her, at Unyanyembe, for a few measures of rice, to a -travelling trader, who came the next morning to complain of a broken -head. - - [9] Anthropometamorphosis: Man-transformed: or the Artificial - Changeling, historically presented, In the mad and cruel Gallantry, - foolish Bravery, Ridiculous Beauty, filthy Finenesse, and loathsome - Loveliness of most NATIONS, fashioning and attiring their Bodies from - the mould intended by NATURE; with figures of these Transfigurations. - To which artificial and affected Deformations are added, all the - Native and National Monstrosities that have appeared to disfigure the - Humane Fabrick. With a VINDICATION of the Regular Beauty and Honesty - of NATURE. With an Appendix of the Pedigree of the ENGLISH GALLANT. - Scripsit J. B. Cognomento Chirosophus, M.D “In nova fert animus, - mutatas dicere formas.” London: Printed by William Hunt, Anno. Dom. - 1653. - -Isa bin Hijji did us various good services. He and his companions kindly -waited some days to superintend our preparations for crossing the Rubeho -Range. They supplied useful hints for keeping the caravan together at -different places infamous for desertion. They gave me valuable -information about Ugogo and Ujiji, and they placed at my disposal their -house at Unyanyembe. They “wigged” the Kirangozi, or guide, for -carelessness in not building a kraal-fence every night, and for not -bringing in, as the custom is, wood and water. Kidogo was reproved for -allowing his men to load our asses with their luggage, and the Baloch -for their continual complaints about food. The latter had long forgotten -the promises made at Muhama; they returned at every opportunity to their -old tactic, that of obtaining, by all manner of pretexts, as much cloth -and beads as possible, ostensibly for provisions, really for trading and -buying slaves. At Rumuma they declared that one cloth per diem starved -them. Said bin Salim sent them its value, about fifty pounds of beans, -and they had abundant rations of beef and mutton, but they could not eat -beans. At Inenge they wanted flour, and as the country people sold only -grain, they gave themselves up to despair. I sent for the Jemadar and -told him, in presence of the merchants, that, as a fitting opportunity -had presented itself, I was willing to weed the party, by giving -official dismissal to Khudabakhsh and Belok, to the invalid Ismail and -his musical “brother” Shahdad. All four, when consulted, declared that -they would die rather than blacken their faces by abandoning the “Haji -Abdullah;” that same evening, however, as I afterwards learned, they -wrote, by means of the Arabs, a heartrending complaint to their chief -Jemadar at Zanzibar, declaring that he had thrown them into the fire (of -affliction), and that their blood was upon his hands. My companion -prepared official papers and maps for the Secretary of the Royal -Geographical Society, and I again indented upon the Consul and the -Collector of Customs for drugs, medical comforts, and an extra supply of -cloth and beads, to the extent of 400 dollars, for which a cheque upon -my agents in Bombay was enclosed. The Arabs took leave of us on the 2nd -September. I charged them repeatedly not to spread reports of our -illness, and I saw them depart with regret. It had really been a relief -to hear once more the voice of civility and sympathy. - -The great labour still remained. Trembling with ague, with swimming -heads, ears deafened by weakness, and limbs that would hardly support -us, we contemplated with a dogged despair the apparently perpendicular -path that ignored a zigzag, and the ladders of root and boulder, hemmed -in with tangled vegetation, up which we and our starving drooping asses -were about to toil. On the 10th September we hardened our hearts, and -began to breast the Pass Terrible. My companion was so weak that he -required the aid of two or three supporters; I, much less unnerved, -managed with one. After rounding in two places wall-like sheets of -rock--at their bases green grass and fresh water were standing close to -camp, and yet no one had driven the donkeys to feed--and crossing a -bushy jungly step, we faced a long steep of loose white soil and rolling -stones, up which we could see the Wanyamwezi porters swarming, more like -baboons scaling a precipice than human beings, and the asses falling -after every few yards. As we moved slowly and painfully forwards, -compelled to lie down by cough, thirst, and fatigue, the “sayhah” or -war-cry rang loud from hill to hill, and Indian files of archers and -spearmen streamed like lines of black ants in all directions down the -paths. The predatory Wahumba, awaiting the caravan’s departure, had -seized the opportunity of driving the cattle and plundering the villages -of Inenge. Two passing parties of men, armed to the teeth, gave us this -information; whereupon the negro “Jelai” proposed, fear-maddened--a -_sauve qui peut_--leaving to their fate his employers, who, bearing the -mark of Abel in this land of Cain, were ever held to be the head and -front of all offence. Khudabakhsh, the brave of braves, being attacked -by a slight fever, lay down, declaring himself unable to proceed, moaned -like a bereaved mother, and cried for drink like a sick girl. The rest -of the Baloch, headed by the Jemadar, were in the rear; they had -levelled their matchlocks at one of the armed parties as it approached -them, and, but for the interference of Kidogo, blood would have been -shed. - -By resting after every few yards, and by clinging to our supporters, we -reached, after about six hours, the summit of the Pass Terrible, and -there we sat down amongst the aromatic flowers and bright shrubs--the -gift of mountain dews--to recover strength and breath. My companion -could hardly return an answer; he had advanced mechanically and almost -in a state of coma. The view from the summit appeared eminently -suggestive, perhaps unusually so, because disclosing a retrospect of -severe hardships, now past and gone. Below the foreground of giant -fractures, huge rocks, and detached boulders, emerging from a shaggy -growth of mountain vegetation, with forest glens and hanging woods, -black with shade gathering in the steeper folds, appeared, distant yet -near, the tawny basin of Inenge, dotted with large square villages, -streaked with lines of tender green, that denoted the water-courses, -mottled by the shadows of flying clouds, and patched with black where -the grass had been freshly fired. A glowing sun gilded the canopy of -dense smoke which curtained the nearer plain, and in the background the -hazy atmosphere painted with its azure the broken wall of hill which we -had traversed on the previous day. - -Somewhat revived by the _tramontana_ which rolled like an ice-brook down -the Pass, we advanced over an easy step of rolling ground, decked with -cactus and the flat-topped mimosa, with green grass and bright shrubs, -to a small and dirty khambi, in a hollow flanked by heights, upon which -several settlements appeared. At this place, called the “Great Rubeho,” -in distinction from its western neighbour, I was compelled to halt. My -invalid sub. had been seized with a fever-fit that induced a dangerous -delirium during two successive nights; he became so violent that it was -necessary to remove his weapons, and, to judge from certain symptoms, -the attack had a permanent cerebral effect. Death appeared stamped upon -his features, yet the Baloch and the sons of Ramji clamoured to advance, -declaring that the cold disagreed with them. - -On the 12th September the invalid, who, restored by a cool night, at -first proposed to advance, and then doubted his ability to do so, was -yet hesitating when the drum-signal for departure sounded without my -order. The Wanyamwezi porters instantly set out. I sent to recal them, -but they replied that it was the custom of their race never to return; a -well-sounding principle against which they never offended except to -serve their own ends. At length a hammock was rigged up for my -companion, and the whole caravan broke ground. - -The path ran along the flank of an eminence, and, ascending a second -step, as steep but shorter than the Pass Terrible, placed us at the -Little Rubeho, or Windy Pass, the summit of the third and westernmost -range of the Usagara Mountains, raised 5,700 feet above the sea-level. -It is the main water-parting of this ghaut-region. At Inenge the trend -is still to the S.E.; beyond Rubeho the direction is S.W. Eventually, -however, the drainage of both slope and counter-slope finds its way to -the Indian Ocean, the former through the Mukondokwa and the Kingani, the -latter through the Rwaha and the Rufiji Rivers. - -A lively scene awaited my arrival at the “Little Rubeho.” From a -struggling mass of black humanity, which I presently determined to be -our porters, proceeded a furious shouting and yelling. Spears and -daggers flashed in the sun, and cudgels played with a threshing movement -which promised many a broken head. At the distance of a few yards, with -fierce faces and in motionless martial attitudes, the right hand upon -the axe-handle stuck in the waist-belt, and the left grasping the bow -and two or three polished assegais, stood a few strong fellows, the -forlorn hope of the fray. In the midst of the crowd, like Norman -Ramsay’s troop begirt by French cavalry--to compare small things with -great--rose and fell the chubby, thickset forms of Muinyi Wazira and his -four Wak’hutu, who, undaunted by numbers, were dealing death to nose and -scalp. Charge! Mavi ya Gnombe (“Bois de Vache”) charge! On! Mashuzi -(“Fish Fry-soup”) on! Bite, Kuffan Kwema (“To die is good”) bite, Smite, -Na daka Mali (“I want wealth”) smite! At length, when - - “Blood (t’was from the nose) began to flow,” - -a little active interference rescued the five “enfans perdus.” The -porters had been fighting upon the question whether the men with -small-pox should, or should not, be admitted into the kraal, and Muinyi -Wazira and his followers, under the influence of potations which -prevented their distinguishing friend from foe, had proved themselves, -somewhat unnecessarily heroes. It is usually better to let these -quarrels work themselves out; if prematurely cut short, the serpent, -wrath, is scotched, not slain. A little “punishment” always cools the -blood, and secures peace and quiet for the future. Moreover, the busy -peacemaker here often shares the fate of M. Porceaugnac, and earns the -reward of those who, according to the proverb, in quarrels interpose. It -is vain to investigate, where all is lie, the origin of the squabble. -Nothing easier, as the Welsh justice was fond of declaring, than to -pronounce judgment after listening to one side of the question; but an -impartial hearing of both would strike the inquiring mind with a sense -of impotence. Perhaps it is not unadvisable to treat the matter after -the fashion adopted by a “police-officer,” a certain captain in the _X. -Y. Z._ army, who deemed it his duty to discourage litigiousness and -official complaints amongst the quarrelsome Sindhi population of -Hyderabad. The story is somewhat out of place; though so being, I will -here recount it. - -Would enter, for instance, two individuals in an oriental costume -considerably damaged; one has a cloth carefully tied round his head, the -other has artificially painted his eye and his ear with a few drops of -blood from the nose. They express their emotions by a loud drumming of -the tom-tom accompanying the high-sounding Cri de Haro--Faryad! Faryad! -Faryad!-- - -“I’ll ‘Faryad’ yer, ye”---- - -After these, the usual appellatives with which the “native” was in those -days, on such occasions received, the plaintiff is thus addressed:-- - -“Well, you--fellow! your complaint, what is it?” - -“Oh, Sahib! Oh, cherisher of the poor! this man who is, the same hath -broken into my house, and made me eat a beating, and called my ma and -sister naughty names, and hath stolen my brass pot, and--” - -“Bas! bas! enough!” cries the beak; “tie him”--the defendant--“up, and -give him three dozen with thine own hand.” - -The wrathful plaintiff, as may be imagined, is nothing loath. After -being vigorously performed upon by the plaintiff aforesaid, the -defendant is cast loose, and is in turn addressed as follows:-- - -“Well, now, you fellow! what say you?” - -“Oh, my lord and master! Oh, dispenser of justice! what lies hath not -this man told? What abominations hath he not devoured? Behold (pointing -to his war-paint) the sight! He hath met me in the street; he hath -thrown me down; he hath kicked and trampled upon me; he hath--” - -“Bas! enough!” again cries the beak: “tie him--the plaintiff--up, and -see if you can give _him_ a good three dozen.” - -Again it may be imagined that the three dozen are well applied by the -revengeful defendant, and that neither that plaintiff nor that defendant -ever troubled that excellent “police-officer” again. - -On Rubeho’s summit we found a single village of villanous Wasagara; -afterwards “made clean”--as the mild Hindu expresses the extermination -of his fellow-men--by a caravan in revenge for the murder of a porter. -We were delayed on the hill-top a whole day, despite the extreme -discomfort of all hands. Water had to be fetched from a runnel that -issued from a rusty pool shaded by tilted-up strata of sandstone, at -least a mile distant from camp. Rain fell daily, alternating with -eruptions of sun; a stream of thick mist rolled down the ravines and -hollows, and at night the howling winds made Rubeho their meeting-place. -Yet neither would the sons of Ramji carry my companion’s hammock, nor -would Said bin Salim allow his children to be so burdened; moreover, -whatever measures one attempted with the porters, the other did his best -to thwart. “Men,” say the Persians, “kiss an ass for an object.” I -attempted with Kidogo that sweet speech which, according to Orientals, -is stronger than chains, and administered “goose’s oil” in such -quantities that I was graciously permitted to make an arrangement for -the transport of my companion with the Kirangozi. - -On the 14th September, our tempers being sensibly cooled by the weather, -we left the hill-top and broke ground upon the counterslope or landward -descent of the Usagara Mountains. Following a narrow footpath that wound -along the hill-flanks, on red earth growing thick clumps of cactus and -feathery mimosa, after forty-five minutes’ march we found a kraal in a -swampy green gap, bisected by a sluggish rivulet that irrigated scanty -fields of grain, gourds, and water-melons, the property of distant -villagers. For the first time since many days I had strength enough to -muster the porters and to inspect their loads. The outfit, which was -expected to last a year, had been half exhausted in three months. I -summoned Said bin Salim, and passed on to him my anxiety. Like a -veritable Arab, he declared, without the least emotion, that we had -enough to reach Unyanyembe, where we certainly should be joined by the -escort of twenty-two porters. “But how do you know that?” I inquired. -“Allah is all-knowing,” replied Said; “but the caravan _will_ come.” -Such fatalism is infectious. I ceased to think upon the subject. - -On the 15th September, after sending forward the luggage, and waiting as -agreed upon for the return of the porters to carry my companion, I set -out about noon, through hot sunshine tempered by the cool hill-breeze. -Emerging from the grassy hollow, the path skirted a well-wooded hill and -traversed a small savannah, overgrown with stunted straw and hedged in -by a bushy forest. At this point massive trees, here single, there in -holts and clumps, foliaged more gloomily than churchyard yews, and -studded with delicate pink-flowers, rose from the tawny sun-burned -expanse around, and defended from the fiery glare braky rings of emerald -shrubbery, sharply defined as if by the forester’s hand. The savannah -extended to the edge of a step which, falling deep and steep, suddenly -disclosed to view, below and far beyond the shaggy ribs and the dark -ravines and folds of the foreground, the plateau of Ugogo and its -Eastern desert. The spectacle was truly impressive. The vault above -seemed “an ample æther,” raised by its exceeding transparency higher -than it is wont to be. Up to the curved rim of the western horizon, lay, -burnished by the rays of a burning sun, plains rippled like a yellow sea -by the wavy reek of the dancing air, broken towards the north by a few -detached cones rising island-like from the surface, and zebra’d with -long black lines, where bush and scrub and strip of thorn jungle, -supplanted upon the watercourses, trending in mazy network southwards to -the Rwaha River, the scorched grass and withered canes-stubbles, which -seemed to be the staple growth of the land. There was nothing of -effeminate or luxuriant beauty, nothing of the flush and fulness -characterising tropical Nature, in this first aspect of Ugogo. It -appeared what it is, stern and wild,--the rough nurse of rugged -men,--and perhaps the anticipation of dangers and difficulties ever -present to the minds of those preparing to endure the waywardness of its -children, contributed not a little to the fascination of the scene. -After lingering for a few minutes upon the crest of the step, with -feelings which they will understand who after some pleasant -months--oases in the grim deserts of Anglo-Indian life--spent among the -tree-clad heights, the breezy lakes, and the turfy valleys of the -Himalayas and the Neilgherries, sight from their last vantage-ground the -jaundiced and fevered plains below, we scrambled down an irregular -incline of glaring red clay and dazzling white chalk, plentifully -besprinkled with dark-olive silex in its cherty crust. Below the descent -was a level space upon a long ridge, where some small villages of -Wasagara had surrounded themselves with dwarf fields of holcus, bajri, -and maize. A little beyond this spot, called the “Third Rubeho,” we -found a comfortless kraal on uneven ground, a sloping ledge sinking -towards a deep ravine. - -At the third Rubeho we were delayed for a day--as is customary before a -“Tirikeza”--by the necessity of laying in supplies for a jungle march, -and by the quarrels of the men. The Baloch were cross as naughty -children, ever their case when cold and hungry: warm and full, they -become merry as crickets. The Kirangozi in hot wrath brought his flag to -Said bin Salim, and threatened to resign, because he had been preceded -on the last stage by two of the Baloch: his complaints of this highly -irregular proceeding were with difficulty silenced by force of beads. I -remarked, however, a few days afterwards, when travelling through Ugogo, -that the Kirangozi, considering himself in danger, applied to me for a -vanguard of matchlockmen. The sons of Ramji combined with the porters in -refusing to carry my companion, and had Bombay and Mabruki not shown -good-will, we might have remained a week in the acme of discomfort. The -asses, frightened by wild beasts, broke loose at night, and one was -lost. The atmosphere was ever in excesses of heat and cold: in the -morning, a mist so thick that it displayed a fog-rainbow--a segment of -an arch, composed of faint prismatic tints--rolled like a torrent down -the ravine in front: the sun, at noon, made us cower under the thin -canvas, and throughout the twenty-four hours a gale like a “vent de -bise,” attracted by the heat of the western plains, swept the encamping -ground. - -Sending forward my invalid companion in his hammock, I brought up the -rear: Said bin Salim, who had waxed unusually selfish and surly, -furtively left to us the task; he wore only sandals--he could not travel -by night. Some of the Baloch wept at the necessity of carrying their -gourds and skins. - -On the 17th September, about 2 P.M., we resumed the descent of the -rugged mountains. The path wound to the N.W. down the stony and bushy -crest of a ridge with a deep woody gap on the right hand: presently -after alternations of steep and step, and platforms patched with -odoriferous plants, it fell into the upper channel of the Mandama or the -Dungomaro, the “Devil’s Glen.” Dungomaro in Kisawahili is the proper -name of an evil spirit, not in the European but in the African -sense,--some unblessed ghost who has made himself unpopular to the -general;--perhaps the term was a facetiousness on the part of the sons -of Ramji. - -It was a “via mala” down this great surface-drain of the western slopes, -over boulders and water-rolled stones reposing upon deep sand, and with -branches of thorny trees in places canopying the bed. After a march of -five hours, I found the porters bivouacking upon a softer spot, and with -difficulty persuaded four of the sons of Ramji to return and to assist -the weary stragglers: horns were sounded, and shots were fired to guide -the Baloch, who did not, however, arrive before 10 P.M. - -On the 18th September, a final march of four hours placed us in the -plains of Ugogo. Leaving the place of the last night’s bivouac, we -pursued the line of the Dungomaro, occasionally quitting it where -boulders obstructed progress, and presently we came to its lower bed, -where perennial rills, exuding from its earth-walls and trickling down -its side, veiled the bottom with a green and shrubby perfumed -vegetation. As the plain was neared, the difficulties increased, and the -scenery became curious. The Dungomaro appeared a large crevasse in lofty -rocks of pink and gray granite, streaked with white quartz, and -pudding’d with greenstone and black horneblend; the sole, strewed with a -rugged layer of blocks, was side-lined with narrow ledges and terraces -of brown humus, supporting dwarf cactus and stunted thorny trees; whilst -high above towered stony wooded peaks, closing in the view on all sides. -Farther down the bed huge boulders, sunburnt, and stained by the courses -of rain-torrents, rose, perpendicularly as walls, to the height of one -hundred and one hundred and twenty feet, and there the flooring was a -sheet or slide of shiny and shelving rock, with broad fissures, and -steep drops, and cups, “potholes,” baths, and basins, filed and cut by -the friction of the gravelly torrents, regularly as if turned with the -lathe. Where water lay, deep mud and thick clumps of grass and reed -forced the path to run along the ledges at the sides of the base. -Gradually, as the angle of inclination became more obtuse, the bed -widened out, the tall stone-walls gave way to low earth-banks clad with -gum-trees; pits, serving as wells, appeared in the deep loose sand, and -the Dungomaro, becoming a broad, smooth Fiumara, swept away verging -southwards into the plain. Before noon, I sighted from a sharp turn in -the bed our tent pitched under a huge sycomore, on a level step that -bounded the Fiumara to the right. It was a pretty spot in a barren -scene, grassy, and grown with green mimosas, spreading out their -feathery heads like parachutes, and shedding upon the ground a filmy -shade that fluttered and flickered in the draughty breeze. - -The only losses experienced during the scrambling descent, were a -gun-case, containing my companion’s store of boots, and a chair and -table. The latter, being indispensable on a journey where calculations, -composition, and sketching were expected, I sent, during the evening -halts, a detachment consisting of Muinyi Wazira, the Baloch, Greybeard -Musa, and a party of slaves, to bring up the articles, which had been -cache’d on the torrent bank. They returned with the horripilatory tale -of the dangers lately incurred by the Expedition, which it appeared from -them had been dogged by an army of Wasagara, thirsting for blood and -furious for booty:--under such circumstances, how could they recover the -chair and table? Some months afterwards an up-caravan commanded by a -Msawahili found the articles lying where we had left them, and delivered -them, for a consideration, to us at Unyanyembe. The party sent from -Ugogo doubtless had passed a quiet, pleasant day, dozing in the shade at -the nearest well. - -[Illustration: Maji ya W’heta, or the Jetting Fountain in K’hutu.] - - - - -CHAP. VII. - -THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE SECOND REGION. - - -The second or mountain region extends from the western frontier of -K’hutu, at the head of the alluvial valley, in E. long. 37° 28′, to the -province of Ugogi, the eastern portion of the flat table-land of Ugogo, -in E. long. 36° 14′. Its diagonal breadth is 85 geographical and -rectilinear miles; and native caravans, if lightly laden, generally -traverse it in three weeks, including three or four halts. Its length -cannot be estimated. According to the guides, Usagara is a prolongation -of the mountains of Nguru, or Ngu, extending southwards, with a gap -forming the fluviatile valley of the Rwaha or Rufiji River, to the line -of highlands of which Njesa in Uhiao is supposed to be the culminating -apex: thus the feature would correspond with the Eastern Ghauts of the -Indian Peninsula. The general law of the range is north and south; in -the region now under consideration, the trend is from north by west to -south by east, forming an angle of 10° 12′ with the meridian. The -Usagara chain is of the first order in East Africa; it is indeed the -only important elevation in a direct line from the coast to western -Unyamwezi; it would hold, however, but a low grade in the general system -of the earth’s mountains. The highest point above sea-level, observed by -B. P. Therm., was 5,700 feet; there are, however, peaks which may rise -to 6,000 and even to 7,000 feet, thus rivalling the inhabited portion of -the Neilgherries. As has appeared, the chain, where crossed, was divided -into three parallel ridges by longitudinal plains. - -Owing to the lowness of the basal regions at the seaward slope, there is -no general prospect of the mountains from the East, where, after -bounding the plains of K’hutu on the north, by irregular bulging lines -of rolling hill, the first gradient of insignificant height springs -suddenly from the plain. Viewed from the west, the counterslope appears -a long crescent, with the gibbus to the front, and the cusps vanishing -into distance; the summit is in the centre of the half-moon, whose -profile is somewhat mural and regular. The flanks are rounded lumpy -cones, and their shape denotes an igneous and primary origin, -intersected by plains and basins, the fractures of the rocky system. -Internally the lay, as in granitic formations generally, is irregular; -the ridges, preserving no general direction, appear to cross one another -confusedly. The slope and the counterslope are not equally inclined. -Here, as usual in chains fringing a peninsula, the seaward declivities -are the more abrupt; the landward faces are not only more elongated, but -they are also shortened in proportion as the plateau into which they -fall is higher than the mountain-plains from which they rise. To enter, -therefore, is more toilsome than to return. - -From the mingling of lively colours, Usagara is delightful to the eye, -after the monotonous tracts of verdure which pall upon the sight at -Zanzibar and in the river valleys. The subsoil, displayed in the deeper -cuts and ravines, is either of granite, greenstone, schiste, or a coarse -incipient sandstone, brown or green, and outcropping from the ground -with strata steeply tilted up. In the higher elevations, the soil varies -in depth from a few inches to thirty feet; it is often streaked with -long layers of pebbles, apparently water-rolled. The colour is either an -ochreish brick-red, sometimes micaceous, and often tinted with oxide of -iron; or it is a dull grey, the debris of comminuted felspar, which, -like a mixture of all the colours, appears dazzlingly white under the -sun’s rays. The plains and depressions are of black earth, which after a -few showers becomes a grass-grown sheet of mire, and in the dry season a -deeply-cracked, stubbly savannah. Where the elevations are veiled from -base to summit with a thin forest, the crops of the greenstone and -sandstone strata appear through a brown coat of fertile humus, the decay -of vegetable matter. A fossil Bulimus was found about 3,000 feet above -sea-level, and large Achatinæ, locally called Khowa, are scattered over -the surface. On the hill-sides, especially in the lower slopes, are -strewed and scattered erratic blocks and boulders, and diminutive pieces -of white, dingy-red, rusty-pink, and yellow quartz, with large -irregularly-shaped fragments and small nodules of calcareous kunkur. -Where water lies deep below the surface, the hills and hill-plains are -clothed with a thin shrubbery of mimosas and other thorny gums. -Throughout Eastern Africa these forests are the only spots in which -travelling is enjoyable: great indeed is their contrast with the normal -features--bald glaring fields, fetid bush and grass, and monotonous -expanses of dull dead herbage, concealing swamps and water-courses, -hedged in by vegetation whose only varieties are green, greener, and -greenest. In these favoured places the traveller appears surrounded by a -thick wood which he never reaches, the trees thinning out as he -advances. On clear and sunny days the scenery is strange and imposing. -The dark-red earth is prolonged half-way up the tree-trunks by the -ascending and descending galleries of the termite: contrasting with this -peculiarly African tint, the foliage, mostly confined to the upper -branches, is of a tender and lively green, whose open fret-work admits -from above the vivid blue or the golden yellow of an unclouded sky. In -the basins where water is nearer the surface, and upon the banks of -water-courses and rivulets, the sweet and fertile earth produces a rich -vegetation, and a gigantic growth of timber, which distinguishes this -region from others further west. Usagara is peculiarly the land of -jungle-flowers, and fruits, whose characteristic is a pleasant acidity, -a provision of nature in climates where antiseptics and correctives to -bile are almost necessaries of life. They are abundant, but, being -uncultivated, the fleshy parts are undeveloped. In the plains, the air, -heavy with the delicious perfume of the jasmine (_Jasminum -Abyssinicum?_), with the strong odour of a kind of sage (_Salvia -Africana_, or _Abyssinica_?), and with the fragrant exhalations of the -mimosa-flowers, which hang like golden balls from the green clad boughs, -forms a most enjoyable contrast to the fetid exhalations of the Great -Dismal Swamps of the lowlands. The tamarind, everywhere growing wild, is -a gigantic tree. The Myombo, the Mfu’u, the Ndábi, and the Mayágeá, a -spreading tree with a large fleshy red flower, and gourds about eighteen -inches long and hanging by slender cords, are of unusual dimensions; the -calabash is converted into a hut; and the sycomore, whose favourite -habitat is the lower counterslope of Usagara, is capable of shading a -regiment. On the steep hill-sides, which here and there display signs of -cultivation and clearings of green or sunburnt grass, grow -parachute-shaped mimosas, with tall and slender trunks, and crowned by -domes of verdure, rising in tiers one above the other, like umbrellas in -a crowd. - -The plains, basins, and steps, or facets of table-land found at every -elevation, are fertilised by a stripe-work of streams, runnels, and -burns, which anastomosing in a single channel, flow off into the main -drain of the country. Cultivation is found in patches isolated by thick -belts of thorny jungle, and the villages are few and rarely visited. As -usual in hilly countries, they are built upon high ridges and the slopes -of cones, for rapid drainage after rain, a purer air and fewer -mosquitoes, and, perhaps, protection from kidnappers. The country people -bring down their supplies of grain and pulse for caravans. There is some -delay and difficulty on the first day of arrival at a station, and -provisions for a party exceeding a hundred men are not to be depended -upon after the third or fourth marketing, when the people have exhausted -their stores. Fearing the thievish disposition of the Wasagara, who will -attempt even to snatch away a cloth from a sleeping man, travellers -rarely lodge near the settlements. Kraals of thorn, capacious circles -enclosing straw boothies, are found at every march, and, when burned or -destroyed by accident, they are rebuilt before the bivouac. The roads, -as usual in East Africa, are tracks trodden down by caravans and cattle, -and the water-course is ever the favourite Pass. Many of the ascents and -descents are so proclivitous that donkeys must be relieved of their -loads; and in fording the sluggish streams, where no grass forms a -causeway over the soft, viscid mire, the animals sink almost to the -knees. The steepest paths are those in the upper regions; in the lower, -though the inclines are often severe, they are generally longer, and -consequently easier. At the foot of each hill there is either a mud or a -water-course dividing it from its neighbour. These obstacles greatly -reduce the direct distance of the day’s march. - -The mountains are well supplied with water, which tastes sweet after the -brackish produce of the maritime valley, and good when not rendered soft -and slimy by lying long on rushy beds. Upon the middle inclines the -burns and runnels of the upper heights form terraces of considerable -extent, and of a picturesque aspect. The wide and open sole, filled with -the whitest and cleanest sand, and retaining pools of fresh clear water, -or shallow wells, is edged by low steep ledges of a dull red clay, lined -with glorious patriarchs of the forest, and often in the bed is a -thickly wooded branch or shoal-islet, at whose upper extremity heavy -driftwood, arrested by the gnarled mimosa-clumps, and the wall of -shrubs, attests the violence of the rufous-tinted bore of waves with -which a few showers fill the broadest courses. Lower down the channels -which convey to the plains the surplus drainage of the mountains are -heaps and sheets of granite, with long reaches of rough gravel; their -stony walls, overrun with vegetation, tower high on either hand, and the -excess of inclination produces after heavy rains torrents like -avalanches, which cut their way deep into the lower plains. During the -dry season, water is drawn from pits sunk from a few inches to 20 feet -in the re-entering angles of the beds. Fed by the percolations of the -soil, they unite the purity of springs with the abundance of -rain-supplies,--a comfort fully appreciated by down-caravans after the -frequent tirikeza, or droughty afternoon-marches in the western regions. - -The versant of the mountains varies. In the seaward and the central -sections streams flow eastward, and swell the Kingani and other rivers. -The southern hills discharge their waters south and south-west through -the Maroro River, and various smaller tributaries, into the “Rwaha,” -which is the proper name for the upper course of the Rufiji. In the -lateral plains between the ridges, and in the hill-girt basins, stagnant -pools, which even during the Masika, or rainy season, inundate, but will -not flow, repose upon beds of porous black earth, and engendering, by -their profuse herbage of reeds and rush-like grass, with the luxuriant -crops produced by artificial irrigation, a malarious atmosphere, cause a -degradation in the people. - -The climate of Usagara is cold and damp. It has two distinct varieties, -the upper regions being salubrious, as the lower are unwholesome. In the -sub-ranges heavy exhalations are emitted by the decayed vegetation, the -nights are raw, the mornings chilly and misty, and the days are bright -and hot. In the higher levels, near the sources of the Mukondokwa River, -the climate suggests the idea of the Mahabaleshwar and the Neilgherry -Hills in Western India. Compared with Uzaramo or Unyamwezi, these -mountains are a sanatorium, and should Europeans ever settle in Eastern -Africa as merchants or missionaries, here they might reside until -acclimatised for the interior. The east wind, a local deflection of the -south-east trade, laden with the moisture of the Atlantic and the Indian -Oceans, and collecting the evaporation of the valley, impinges upon the -seaward slope, where, ascending, and relieved from atmospheric pressure, -it is condensed by a colder temperature; hence the frequent -precipitations of heavy rain, and the banks and sheets of morning-cloud -which veil the tree-clad peaks of the highest gradients. As the sun -waxes hot, the atmosphere acquires a greater capacity for carrying -water; and the results are a milky mist in the basins, and in the upper -hills a wonderful clearness broken only by the thin cirri of the higher -atmosphere. After sunset, again, the gradual cooling of the air causes -the deposit of a copious dew, which renders the nights peculiarly -pleasant to a European. The diurnal sea-breeze, felt in the slope, is -unknown in the counterslope of the mountains, where, indeed, the climate -is much inferior to that of the central and eastern heights. As in the -Sawalik Hills, and the sub-ranges of the Himalayas, the sun is burning -hot during the dry season, and in the rains there is either a storm of -thunder and lightning, wind and rain, or a stillness deep and -depressing, with occasional gusts whose distinct moaning shows the -highly electrical state of the atmosphere. The Masika, here commencing -in early January, lasts three months, when the normal easterly winds -shift to the north and the north-west. The Vuli, confined to the eastern -slopes, occurs in August, and, as on the plains, frequent showers fall -between the vernal and the autumnal rains. - -The people of Usagara suffer in the lower regions from severe -ulcerations, from cutaneous disorders, and from other ailments of the -plain. Higher up they are healthier, though by no means free from -pleurisy, pneumonia, and dysentery. Fever is common; it is more acute in -the range of swamps and decomposed herbage, and is milder in the -well-ventilated cols and on the hill-sides. The type is rather a violent -bilious attack, accompanied by remittent febrile symptoms, than a -regular fever. It begins with cold and hot fits, followed by a copious -perspiration, and sometimes inducing delirium; it lasts as a quotidian -or a tertian from four to seven days; and though the attacks are slight, -they are followed by great debility, want of appetite, of sleep, and of -energy. This fever is greatly exacerbated by exposure and fatigue, and -it seldom fails to leave behind it a legacy of cerebral or visceral -disease. - -The mountains of Usagara are traversed from east to west by two main -lines; the Mukondokwa on the northern and the Kiringawana on the -southern line. The former was closed until 1856 by a chronic famine, the -result of such a neighbourhood as the Wazegura and the people of Whinde -on the east, the Wahumba and the Wamasai northwards, and the Warori on -the south-west. In 1858 the mountaineers, after murdering by the vilest -treachery a young Arab trader, Salim bin Nasir, of the Bu Saidi, or the -royal family of Zanzibar, attempted to plunder a large mixed caravan of -Wanyamwezi and Wasawahili, numbering 700 or 800 guns, commanded by a -stout fellow, Abdullah bin Nasib, called by the Africans “Kisesa,” who -carried off the cattle, burned the villages, and laid waste the whole of -the Rubeho or western chain. - -The clans now tenanting these East African ghauts are the -Wasagara,--with their chief sub-tribe the Wakwivi,--and the Wahehe; the -latter a small body inhabiting the south-western corner, and extending -into the plains below. - -The limits of the Wasagara have already been laid down by the names of -the plundering tribes that surround them. These mountaineers, though a -noisy and riotous race, are not overblessed with courage: they will lurk -in the jungle with bows and arrows to surprise a stray porter; but they -seem ever to be awaiting an attack--the best receipt for inviting it. In -the higher slopes they are fine, tall and sturdy men; in the low lands -they appear as degraded as the Wak’hutu. They are a more bearded race -than any other upon this line of East Africa, and, probably from -extensive intercourse with the Wamrima, most of them understand the -language of the coast. The women are remarkable for a splendid -development of limb, whilst the bosom is lax and pendent. - -The Wasagara display great varieties of complexion, some being almost -black, whilst the others are chocolate-coloured. This difference cannot -be accounted for by the mere effects of climate--level and temperature. -Some shave the head; others wear the Arab’s shushah, a kind of skull-cap -growth, extending more or less from the poll. Amongst them is seen, for -the first time on this line, the classical coiffure of ancient Egypt. -The hair, allowed to attain its fullest length, is twisted into a -multitude of the thinnest ringlets, each composed of two thin lengths -wound together; the wiry stiffness of the curls keeps them distinct and -in position. Behind, a curtain of pigtails hangs down to the nape; in -front the hair is either combed off the forehead, or it is brought over -the brow and trimmed short. No head-dress has a wilder nor a more -characteristically African appearance than this, especially when, -smeared with a pomatum of micaceous ochre, and decorated with beads, -brass balls, and similar ornaments, it waves and rattles with every -motion of the head. Young men and warriors adorn their locks with the -feathers of vultures, ostriches, and a variety of bright-plumed jays, -and some tribes twist each ringlet with a string of reddish fibre. It is -seldom combed out, the operation requiring for a head of thick hair the -hard work of a whole day; it is not, therefore, surprising that the -pediculus swarms through the land. None but the chiefs wear caps. Both -sexes distend the ear-lobe; a hole is bored with a needle or a thorn, it -is enlarged by inserting bits of cane, wood, or quills, increasing the -latter to the number of twenty, and it is kept open by a disk of brass, -ivory, wood, or gum, a roll of leaf or a betel-nut; thus deformed it -serves for a variety of purposes apparently foreign to the member; it -often carries a cane snuff-box, sometimes a goat’s-horn pierced for a -fife, and other small valuables. When empty, especially in old age, it -depends in a deformed loop to the shoulders. The peculiar mark of the -tribe is a number of confused little cuts between the ears and the -eyebrows. Some men, especially in the eastern parts of the mountains, -chip the teeth to points. - -The dress of the Wasagara is a shukkah or loin-cloth, 6 feet long, -passed round the waist in a single fold,--otherwise walking would be -difficult--drawn tight behind, and with the fore extremities gathered -up, and tucked in over the stomach, where it is sometimes supported by a -girdle of cord, leather, or brass wire: it is, in fact, the Arab’s -“uzár.” On journeys it is purposely made short and scanty for -convenience of running. The material is sometimes indigo-dyed, at other -times unbleached cotton, which the Wasagara stain a dull yellow. Cloth, -however, is the clothing of the wealthy. The poor content themselves -with the calabash-“campestre” or kilt, and with the softened skins of -sheep and goats. It is curious that in East Africa, where these articles -have from time immemorial been the national dress, and where amongst -some tribes hides form the house, that the people have neither invented -nor borrowed the principles of rude tanning, even with mimosa-bark, an -art so well known to most tribes of barbarians. Immediately after -flaying, the stretched skin is pegged, to prevent shrinking, inside -upwards, in the sun, and it is not removed till thoroughly cleansed and -dried. The many little holes in the margin give it the semblance of -ornamentation, and sometimes the hair is scraped off, leaving a fringe -two or three inches broad around the edge: the legs and tail of the -animal are favourite appendages with “dressy gentlemen.” These skins are -afterwards softened by trampling, and they are vigorously pounded with -clubs: after a few days’ wear, dirt and grease have almost done the duty -of tanning. The garb is tied over either shoulder by a bit of cord or -simply by knotting the corners; it therefore leaves one side of the body -bare, and, being loose and ungirt, it is at the mercy of every wind. On -journeys it is doffed during rain, and placed between the burden and the -shoulder, so that, arrived at the encamping ground, the delicate -traveller may have a “dry shirt.” - -Women of the wealthier classes wear a tobe, or double-length shukkah, -tightly drawn under the arms, so as to depress whilst it veils the -bosom, and tucked in at either side. Dark stuffs, indigo-dyed and Arab -checks, are preferred to plain white for the usual reasons. The dress of -the general is a short but decorous jupe of greasy skin, and a similar -covering for the bosom, open behind, and extending in front from the -neck to the middle of the body: the child is carried in another skin -upon the back. The poorest classes of both sexes are indifferently -attired in the narrow kilt of bark-fibre, usually made in the maritime -countries from the ukhindu or brab tree; in the interior from the -calabash. The children wear an apron of thin twine, like the Nubian -thong-garments. Where beads abound, the shagele, a small square napkin -of these ornaments strung upon thread, is fastened round the waist by a -string or a line of beads. There are many fanciful modifications of it: -some children wear a screen of tin plates, each the size of a man’s -finger: most of the very juniors, however, are simply attired in a cord, -with or without beads, round the waist. - -The ornaments of the Wasagara are the normal beads and wire, and their -weight is the test of wealth and respectability. A fillet of blue and -white beads is bound round the head, and beads,--more beads,--appear -upon the neck, the arms, and the ankles. The kitindi, or coil of thick -brass wire, extends from the elbow to the wrist; others wear little -chains or thick bangles of copper, brass, or zinc, and those who can -afford it twist a few circles of brass wire under the knee. The arms of -the men are bows and arrows, the latter unpoisoned, but armed with -cruelly-barbed heads, and spines like fish-bones, cut out in the long -iron shaft which projects from the wood. Their spears and assegais are -made from the old hoes which are brought down by the Wanyamwezi -caravans; the ferule is thin, and it is attached to the shaft by a -cylinder of leather from a cow’s tail, drawn over the iron, and allowed -to shrink at its junction with the wood: some assegais have a central -swell in the shaft, probably to admit of their being used in striking -like the rungu or knobstick. Men seldom leave the house without a -billhook of peculiar shape--a narrow sharp blade, ending in a right -angle, and fixed in a wooden handle, with a projection rising above the -blade. The shield is rarely found on this line of East Africa. In -Usagara it is from three to four feet in length by one to two feet in -breadth, composed of two parallel belts of hardened skin. The material -is pegged out to stretch and dry, carefully cleaned, sometimes doubled, -sewn together with a thin thong longitudinally, and stained black down -one side, and red down the other. A stout lath is fastened lengthwise as -a stiffener to the shield, and a central bulge is made in the hide, -enabling the hand to grasp the wood. The favourite materials are the -spoils of the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the giraffe; the common -shields are of bull’s-hide, and the hair is generally left upon the -outside as an ornament, with attachments of zebra and cows’ tails. It is -a flimsy article, little better than a “wisp of fern or a herring-net” -against an English “clothyard:” it suffices, however, for defence -against the puny cane-arrows of the African archer. - -As a rule, each of these villages has its headman, who owns, however, an -imperfect allegiance to the Mutwa or district chief, whom the Arabs call -“sultan.” The Mgosi is his wazir, or favourite councillor, and the -elders or headmen of settlements collectively are Wabáhá. Their -principal distinction is the right to wear a fez, or a Surat cap, and -the kizbáo, a sleeveless waistcoat. They derive a certain amount of -revenue by trafficking in slaves: consequently many of the Wasagara find -their way into the market of Zanzibar. Moreover, the game-laws as -regards elephants are here strictly in favour of the Sultan. An animal -found dead in his district, though wounded in another, becomes his -property on condition of his satisfying his officials with small -presents of cloth and beads: the flesh is feasted upon by the tribe, and -the ivory is sold to travelling traders. - -The Wahehe, situated between the Wasagara and Wagogo, partake a little -of the appearance of both. They are a plain race, but stout and well -grown. Though to appearance hearty and good-humoured, they are -determined pilferers: they have more than once attacked caravans, and -only the Warori have prevented them from cutting off the road to Ugogo. -During the return of the Expedition in 1858 they took occasion to drive -off unseen a flock of goats; and at night no man, unless encamped in a -strong kraal, was safe from their attempts to snatch his goods. On one -occasion, being caught in flagrant delict, they were compelled to -restore their plunder, with an equivalent as an indemnity. They are on -bad terms with all their neighbours, and they unite under their chief -Sultan Bumbumu. - -The Wahehe enlarge their ears like the Wagogo, they chip the two upper -incisors, and they burn beauty-spots in their forearms. Some men extract -three or four of the lower incisors: whenever an individual without -these teeth is seen in Ugogo he is at once known as a Mhehe. For -distinctive mark they make two cicatrised incisions on both cheeks from -the zygomata to the angles of the mouth. They dress like the Wagogo, but -they have less cloth than skins. The married women usually wear a jupe, -in shape recalling the old swallow-tailed coat of Europe, with kitindi, -or coil armlets of brass or iron wire on both forearms and above the -elbows. Unmarried girls amongst the Wahehe are known by their peculiar -attire, a long strip of cloth, like the Indian “languti or T-bandage,” -but descending to the knees, and attached to waistbelts of large white -or yellow porcelain or blue glass beads. Over this is tied a kilt of -calabash fibre, a few inches deep. The men wear thick girdles of brass -wire, neatly wound round a small cord. Besides the arms described -amongst the Wasagara, the Wahehe carry “sime,” or double-edged knives, -from one to two feet long, broadening out from the haft, and rounded off -to a blunt point at the end. The handle is cut into raised rings for -security of grip, and, when in sheath, half the blade appears outside -its rude leathern scabbard. The Tembe, or villages of the Wahehe, are -small, ragged, and low, probably to facilitate escape from attack. They -do business in slaves, and have large flocks and herds, which are, -however, often thinned by the Warori, whom the Wahehe dare not resist in -the field. - -[Illustration: Ugogo.] - - - - -CHAP. VIII. - -WE SUCCEED IN TRAVERSING UGOGO. - - -Ugogo, the reader may remember, was the ultimate period applied to the -prospects of the Exploration by the worthy Mr. Rush Ramji, in -conversation with the respectable Ladha Damha, Collector of Customs, -Zanzibar. - -I halted three days at Ugogi to recruit the party and to lay in rations -for four long desert marches. Apparently there was an abundance of -provisions, but the people at first declined to part with their grain -and cattle even at exorbitant prices, and the Baloch complained of -“cleanness of teeth.” I was visited by Ngoma Mroma, _alias_ Sultan -Makande, a diwan or headman, from Ugogo, here settled as chief, and well -known on the eastern seaboard: he came to offer his good services. But -he talked like an idiot, he begged for every article that met his eye: -and he wished me--palpably for his own benefit--to follow the most -northerly of the three routes leading to Unyamwezi, upon which there -were not less than eight “sultans” described by Kidogo as being “one -hungrier than the other.” At last, an elephant having been found dead -within his limits, he disappeared, much to my relief, for the purpose of -enjoying a gorge of elephant-beef. - -Ugogi is the half-way district between the coast and Unyanyembe, and it -is usually made by up-caravans at the end of the second month. The -people of this “no man’s land” are a mongrel race: the Wasagara claim -the ground, but they have admitted as settlers many Wahehe and Wagogo, -the latter for the most part men who have left their country for their -country’s good. The plains are rich in grain, and the hills in cattle, -when not harried, as they had been, a little before our arrival, by the -Warori. The inhabitants sometimes offer for sale milk and honey, eggs -and ghee, but--only the civilised rogue can improve by adulteration--the -milk falls like water off the finger, the honey is in the red stage of -fermentation, of the eggs there are few without the rude beginnings of a -chicken, and the ghee, from long keeping, is sweet above and bitter -below. The country still contains game, kanga, or guinea-fowls, in -abundance, the ocelot, a hyrax like the coney of the Somali country, and -the beautiful “silver jackal.” The elephant and the giraffe are -frequently killed on the plains. The giraffe is called by the Arabs -Jamal el Wahshí, a translation of the Kisawahili Ngamia ya Muytu, “Camel -of the Wild,” and throughout the interior Tiga or Twiga. Their sign is -often seen in the uncultivated parts of the country; but they wander -far, and they are rarely found except by accident; the hides are -converted into shields and saddle-bags, the long tufty tails into -“chauri,” or fly-flappers, and the flesh is a favourite food. At Ugogi, -however, game has suffered from the frequent haltings of caravans, and -from the carnivorous propensities of the people, who, huntsmen all, -leave their prey no chance against their nets and arrows, their pitfalls -and their packs of yelping curs. - -Ugogi stands 2760 feet above sea level, and its climate, immediately -after the raw cold of Usagara, pleases by its elasticity and by its dry -healthy warmth. The nights are fresh and dewless, and the rays of a -tropical sun are cooled by the gusts and raffales which, regularly as -the land and sea-breezes of the coast, sweep down the sinuosities of -Dungomaro. As our “gnawing stomachs” testified, the air of Usagara had -braced our systems. My companion so far recovered health that he was -able to bring home many a brace of fine partridge, and of the fat -guinea-fowl that, clustering upon the tall trees, awoke the echoes of -the rocks as they called for their young. The Baloch, the sons of Ramji, -and the porters began to throw off the effects of the pleurisies and the -other complaints, which they attributed to hardship and exposure on the -mountain-tops. The only obstinate invalids were the two Goanese. Gaetano -had another attack of the Mukunguru, or seasoning fever, which, instead -of acclimatising his constitution, seemed by ever increasing weakness -and depression, to pave the way for a fresh visitation. Valentine, with -flowing eyes, pathetically pointed to two indurations in his gastric -region, and bewailed his hard fate in thus being torn from the -dearly-loved shades of Panjim and Margão, to fatten the inhospitable -soil of Central Africa. - -Immediately before departure, when almost in despair at the rapid -failure of our carriage--the asses were now reduced to nine--I -fortunately secured, for the sum of four cloths per man, the services of -fifteen Wanyamwezi porters. In all a score, they had left at Ugogi their -Mtongi, or employer, in consequence of a quarrel concerning _the_ sex. -They dreaded forcible seizure and sale if found without protection -travelling homewards through Ugogo; and thus they willingly agreed to -carry our goods as far as their own country, Unyanyembe. Truly is -travelling like campaigning,--a pennyweight of luck is better than a -talent of all the talents! And if marriages, as our fathers used to say, -are made in the heavens, the next-door manufactory must be devoted to -the fabrication of African explorations. Notwithstanding, however, the -large increase of conveyance, every man appeared on the next march more -heavily laden than before:--they carried grain for six days, and water -for one night. - -From Ugogi to the Ziwa or Pond, the eastern limits of Ugogo, are four -marches, which, as they do not supply provisions, and as throughout the -dry season water is found only in one spot, are generally accomplished -in four days. The lesser desert, between Ugogi and Ugogo, is called -Marenga M’khali, or the Brackish Water: it must not be confounded with -the district of Usagara bearing the same name. - -We left Ugogi on the 22nd September, at 3 P.M., instead of at noon. As -all the caravan hurried recklessly forward, I brought up the rear -accompanied by Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and several of the sons of -Ramji, who insisted upon driving the asses for greater speed at a long -trot, which, after lasting a hundred yards, led to an inevitable fall of -the load. Before emerging from Ugogi, the road wound over a grassy -country, thickly speckled with calabashes. Square Tembe appeared on both -sides, and there was no want of flocks and herds. As the villages and -fields were left behind, the land became a dense thorny jungle, based -upon a sandy red soil. The horizon was bounded on both sides by -gradually-thinning lines of lumpy outlying hill, the spurs of the Rubeho -Range, that extended, like a scorpion’s claws, westward; and the plain, -gently falling in the same direction, was broken only by a single -hill-shoulder and by some dwarf descents. As we advanced through the -shades--a heavy cloud-bank had shut out the crescent moon--our -difficulties increased; thorns and spiky twigs threatened the eyes; the -rough and rugged road led to many a stumble, and the frequent whine of -the cynhyæna made the asses wild with fear. None but Bombay came out to -meet us; the porters were overpowered by their long march under the -fiery sun. About 8 P.M., directed by loud shouts and flaring fires, we -reached a kraal, a patch of yellow grass, offering clear room in the -thorny thicket. That night was the perfection of a bivouac, cool from -the vicinity of the hills, genial from their shelter, and sweet as -forest-air in these regions ever is. - -On the next day we resumed our labour betimes: for a dreary and thirsty -stage lay before us. Toiling through the sunshine of the hot waste I -could not but remark the strange painting of the land around. At a -distance the plain was bright-yellow with stubble, and brown-black with -patches of leafless wintry jungle based upon a brick-dust soil. A closer -approach disclosed colours more vivid and distinct. Over the ruddy plain -lay scattered untidy heaps of grey granite boulders, surrounded and -capped by tufts of bleached white grass. The copse showed all manner of -strange hues, calabashes purpled and burnished by sun and rain, thorns -of a greenish coppery bronze, dead trees with trunks of ghastly white, -and gums (the blue-gum tree of the Cape?) of an unnatural sky-blue, the -effect of the yellow outer pellicle being peeled off by the burning -rays, whilst almost all were reddened up to a man’s height, by the -double galleries, ascending and descending, of the white ants. Here too, -I began to appreciate the extent of the nuisance, thorns. Some were soft -and green, others a finger long, fine, straight and woody--they serve as -needles in many parts of the country--one, a “corking pin,” bore at its -base a filbert-like bulge, another was curved like a cock’s spur; the -double thorns, placed dos-à-dos, described by travellers in Abyssinia -and in the Cape Karroos, were numerous, the “wait-a-bit,” a dwarf -sharply bent spine with acute point and stout foundation, and a smaller -variety, short and deeply crooked, numerous and tenacious as fish-hooks, -tore without difficulty the strongest clothing, even our woollen Arab -“Abas,” and our bed-covers of painted canvas. - -Travelling through this broom-jungle and crossing grassy plains, over -paths where the slides of elephants’ feet upon the last year’s muddy -clay showed that the land was not always dry, we halted after 11 A.M. -for about an hour at the base of a steep incline, apparently an offset -from the now distant Rubeho Range. The porters would have nighted at the -mouth of a small drain which, too steep for ascent, exposed in its rocky -bed occasional sand-patches and deep pools; Kidogo, however, forced them -forwards, declaring that if the asses drank of this “brackish water,” -they would sicken and die. His assertion, suspected of being a -“traveller’s tale,” was subsequently confirmed by the Arabs of -Unyanyembe, who declared that the country people never water their -flocks and herds below the hill; there may be poisonous vegetation in -the few yards between the upper and the lower pools, but no one offered -any explanation of the phenomenon. - -Ascending with difficulty the eastern face of the step, which presented -two ladders of loose stones and fixed boulders of grey syenite, -hornblende, and greenstone, with coloured quartzes, micacious schistes, -and layers of talcose slate glittering like mother-o’-pearl upon the -surface, we found a half-way platform some 150 feet of extreme breadth. -Upon its sloping and irregular floor, black-green pools, sadly offensive -to more senses than one, spring-fed, and forming the residue of the -rain-water which fills the torrent, lay in muddy holes broadly fringed -with silky grass. Travellers drink without fear this upper Marenga -Mk’hali, which, despite its name, is rather soft and slimy, than -brackish, and sign of wild-beasts--antelope and buffalo, giraffe and -rhinoceros--appear upon its brink. It sometimes dries up in the heart of -the hot season, and then deaths from thirst occur amongst the porters -who, mostly Wanyanwezi, are not wont to practise abstinence in this -particular. “Sucking-places” are unknown to them, water-bearing bulbs -might here be discovered by the South African traveller; as a rule, -however, the East African is so plentifully supplied with the necessary -that he does not care to provide for a dry day by unusual means. -Ascending another steep incline we encamped upon a small step, the -half-way gradient of a higher level. - -The 24th Sept. was to be a tirikeza: the Baloch and the sons of Ramji -spent the earlier half in blowing away gunpowder at antelope, partridge -and parrot, guinea-fowl and floriken, but not a head of game found its -way into camp. The men were hot, tired and testy, those who had wives -beat them, those who had not “let off the steam” by quarreling with one -another. Said bin Salim, sick and surly, had words concerning a -water-gourd with the brave Khudabakhsh, and the monocular Jemadar, who -made a point of overloading his porters, bitterly complained because -they would not serve him. At 2 P.M. we climbed up the last ladder of the -rough and stony incline, which placed us a few hundred feet above the -eastern half of the Lesser Desert. We took a pleasant leave of the last -of the rises; on this line of road, between Marenga Mk’hali and Western -Unyamwezi, the land, though rolling, has no steep ascents nor descents. - -From the summit of the Marenga Mk’hali step we travelled till -sunset--the orb of day glaring like a fireball in our faces,--through -dense thorny jungle and over grassy plains of black, cracked earth, in -places covered with pebbles and showing extensive traces of shallow -inundations during the rains; in the lower lands huge blocks of -weathered granite stood out abruptly from the surface, and on both -sides, but higher on the right hand, rose blue cones, some single, -others in pairs like “brothers.” The caravan once rested in a thorny -coppice, based upon rich red and yellow clay whence it was hurriedly -dislodged by a swarm of wild bees. As the sun sank below the horizon the -porters called a halt on a calabash-grown plain, near a block of stony -hill veiled with cactus and mimosa, below whose northern base ran a -tree-lined Nullah where, they declared, from the presence of antelope -and other game, that water might be found by digging. Vainly Kidogo -urged them forwards declaring that they would fail to reach the Ziwa or -Pond in a single march; they preferred “crowing” and scooping up sand -till midnight to advancing a few miles, and some gourdsfull of dirty -liquid rewarded their industry. - -On the morning of the 26th of September, I learned that we had sustained -an apparently irreparable loss. When the caravan was dispersed by bees, -a porter took the opportunity of deserting. This man, who represented -himself as desirous of rejoining at Unyamyembe, his patron Abdullah bin -Musa, the son of the well-known Indian merchant, had been engaged for -four cloths by Said bin Salim at Ugogi. The Arab with his usual -after-wit found out, when the mishap was announced, that he had from the -first doubted and disliked the man so much that he had paid down only -half the hire. Yet to the new porter had been committed the most -valuable of our packages, a portmanteau containing the Nautical Almanac -for 1858, the surveying books, and most of our paper, pens and ink. Said -bin Salim, however, was hardly to be blamed, his continual quarrels with -the Baloch and the sons of Ramji absorbed all his thoughts. Although the -men were unanimous in declaring that the box never could be recovered, I -sent back Bombay Mabruki and the slave Ambari with particular directions -to search the place where we had been attacked by bees; it was within -three miles, but, as the road was deemed dangerous, the three worthies -preferred passing a few quiet hours in some snug neighbouring spot. - -At 1.30 P.M. much saddened by the disaster, we resumed our road and -after stretching over a monotonous grassy plain variegated with dry -thorny jungle, we arrived about sunset at a waterless kraal where we -determined to pass the night. Our supplies of liquid ran low, the -Wanyamwezi porters, who carried our pots and gourds, had drained them on -the way, and without drink an afternoon-march in this droughthy land -destroys all appetite for supper. Some of the porters presently set out -to fill their gourds with the waters of the Ziwa, thence distant but a -few miles; they returned after a four hours’ absence with supplies which -restored comfort and good humour to the camp. - -Before settling for the night Kidogo stood up, and to loud cries of -“Maneno! maneno!”--words! words!--equivalent to our parliamentary hear! -hear! delivered himself of the following speech:-- - -“Listen, O ye whites! and ye children of Sayyidi Majidi! and ye sons of -Ramji! hearken to my words, O ye offspring of the night! The journey -entereth Ugogo--Ugogo (the orator threw out his arm westward). Beware, -and again beware (he made violent gesticulations). You don’t know the -Wagogo, they are ----s and ----s! (he stamped.) Speak not to those -Washenzi pagans; enter not into their houses (he pointed grimly to the -ground). Have no dealings with them, show no cloth, wire, nor beads -(speaking with increasing excitement). Eat not with them, drink not with -them, and make not love to their women (here the speech became a -scream). Kirangozi of the Wanyamwezi, restrain your sons! Suffer them -not to stray into the villages, to buy salt out of camp, to rob -provisions, to debauch with beer, or to sit by the wells!” And thus, for -nearly half an hour, now violently, then composedly, he poured forth the -words of wisdom, till the hubbub and chatter of voices which at first -had been silenced by surprise, brought his eloquence to an end. - -We left the jungle-kraal early on the 26th September, and after hurrying -through thick bush we debouched upon an open stubbly plain, with herds -of gracefully bounding antelopes and giraffes, who stood for a moment -with long outstretched necks to gaze, and presently broke away at a -rapid, striding, camel’s-trot, their heads shaking as if they would jerk -off, their limbs loose, and their joints apparently dislocated. About 9 -P.M. we sighted the much-talked of Ziwa. The Arabs, fond of “showing a -green garden,” had described to me at Inenge a piece of water fit to -float a man-of-war. But Kidogo, when consulted, had replied simply with -the Kisawahili proverb, “Khabari ya mb’hali;” _i. e._, “news from -afar;”--_a beau mentir qui vient de loin_. I was not therefore surprised -to find a shallow pool, which in India would barely merit the name of -tank. - -The Ziwa, which lies 3,100 feet above the sea, occupies the lowest -western level of Marenga Mk’háli, and is the deepest of the many -inundated grounds lying to its north, north-east, and north-west. The -extent greatly varies: in September, 1857, it was a slaty sheet of -water, with granite projections on one side, and about 300 yards in -diameter; the centre only could not be forded. The bottom and the banks -were of retentive clay: a clear ring, whence the waters had subsided, -margined the pool, and beyond it lay a thick thorny jungle. In early -December, 1858, nothing remained but a surface of dry, crumbling, and -deeply-cracked mud, and, according to travellers, it had long, in -consequence of the scanty rains, been in that state. Caravans always -encamp at the Ziwa when they find water there. The country around is -full of large game, especially elephants, giraffes, and zebras, who come -to drink at night; a few widgeon are seen breasting the little waves; -“kata” (sand-grouse), of peculiarly large size and dark plumage, flock -there with loud cries; and at eventide the pool is visited by -guinea-fowl, floriken, curlews, peewits, wild pigeons, doves, and hosts -of small birds. When the Ziwa is desiccated, travellers usually encamp -in a thick bush, near a scanty clearing, about one mile to the -north-west, where a few scattered villages of Wagogo have found dirty -white water, hard and bad, in pits varying from twenty to thirty feet in -depth. Here, as elsewhere in eastern Africa, the only trough is a small -ring sunk in the retentive clayey soil, and surrounded by a little -raised dam of mud and loose stones. A demand is always made for -according permission to draw water--a venerable custom, dating from the -days of Moses. “Ye shall buy meat of them (the Edomites) for money, that -ye may eat; and ye shall also buy water of them for money, that ye may -drink.”--Deut. ii. 6. Yet as thirsty, like hungry men, are not to be -trifled with, fatal collisions have resulted from this inhospitable -practice. Some years ago a large caravan of Wanyamwezi was annihilated -in consequence of a quarrel about water, and lately several deaths -occurred in a caravan led by an Arab merchant, Sallum bin Hamid, because -the wells were visited before the rate of payment was settled. In -several places we were followed upon the march lest a gourd might be -furtively filled. To prevent exhaustion the people throw euphorbia, -asclepias, and solanaceous plants into the well after a certain hour, -and when not wanted it is bushed over, to keep off animals, and to check -evaporation. - -At the Ziwa the regular system of kuhonga, or blackmail, so much dreaded -by travellers, begins in force. Up to this point all the chiefs are -contented with little presents; but in Ugogo tribute is taken by force, -if necessary. None can evade payment; the porters, fearing lest the road -be cut off to them in future, would refuse to travel unless each chief -is satisfied; and when a quarrel arises they throw down their packs and -run away. Ugogo, since the closing of the northern line through the -Wahumba and the Wamasai tribes, and the devastation of the southern -regions by the Warori, is the only open line, and the sultans have -presumed upon their power of stopping the way. There is no regular -tariff of taxes: the sum is fixed by the traveller’s dignity and outfit, -which, by means of his slaves, are as well known to every sultan as to -himself. Properly speaking, the exaction should be confined to the -up-caravans; from those returning a head or two of cattle, a few hoes, -or some similar trifle, are considered ample. Such, however, was not the -experience of the Expedition. When first travelling through the country -the “Wazungu” were sometimes mulcted to the extent of fifty cloths by a -single chief, and the Arabs congratulated them upon having escaped so -easily. On their downward march they pleaded against a second demand as -exorbitant as the first, adducing the custom of caravans, who are seldom -mulcted in more than two cows or a pair of jembe, or iron hoes; the -chiefs, however, replied that as they never expected to see white faces -again, it was their painful duty to make the most from them. - -The kuhonga, however, is not unjust. In these regions it forms the -customs-dues of the government: the sultan receives it nominally, but he -must distribute the greater part amongst his family and councillors, his -elders and attendants. It takes the place of the fees expected by the -Balderabba of the Abyssinians, the Mogasa of the Gallas, the Abban of -the Somal, and the Ghafir and Rafik amongst the Bedouin Arabs, which are -virtually assertions of supremacy upon their own ground. These people -have not the idea which seems prevalent in the south, namely, that any -man has a right to tread God’s earth gratis as long as he does not -interfere with property. If any hesitation about the kuhonga be made, -the first question put to the objector will be, “Is this your ground or -my ground?” The practice, which is sanctioned by the customs of -civilised nations, is, however, vitiated in East Africa by the -slave-trade: it becomes the means of intrusion and extortion, of -insolence and violence. The Wagogo are an importing people, and they see -with envy long strings of what they covet passing through their -territory from the interior to the coast. They are strong enough to -plunder any caravan; but violence they know would injure them by cutting -off communication with the markets for their ivory. Thus they have -settled into a silent compromise, and their nice sense of self-interest -prevents any transgression beyond the bounds of reason. The sultans -receive their kuhonga, and the subjects entice away slaves from every -caravan, but the enormous interest upon capital laid out in the trade -still leaves a balance in favour of the merchants. The Arabs, however, -declaring that the evil is on the increase, propose many remedies--such -as large armed caravans, sent by their government, and heavy dues to be -exacted from those Wagogo who may visit the coast. But they are wise -enough to murmur without taking steps which would inevitably exacerbate -the evil. Should it pass a certain point, a new road will be opened, or -the old road will be reopened, to restore the balance of interests. - -At the Ziwa we had many troubles. One Marema, the sultan of a new -settlement situated a few hundred yards to the north-west visited us on -the day of our arrival and reproving us for “sitting in the jungle,” -pointed out the way to his village. On our replying that we were about -to traverse Ugogo by another route, he demanded his Ada or customs, -which being newly-imposed were at once refused by Kidogo. The sultan, a -small man, a “mere thief,”--as a poor noble is graphically described in -these lands,--threatened violence, whereupon the asses were brought in -from grazing and were ostentatiously loaded before his eyes: when he -changed his tone from threats to beggary. Kidogo relenting gave him two -cloths with a few strings of beads, preferring this slender disbursement -to the chance of a flight of arrows during the night. His good judgment -was evidenced by the speedy appearance of the country-people, who -brought with them bullocks, sheep, goats and poultry, water-melons and -pumpkins, honey, butter-milk, whey and curded-milk, an abundance of -holcus and calabash-flour. The latter is made from the hard dry pulp -surrounding the bean-like seed contained in the ripe gourd: the taste is -a not unpleasant agro-dolce, and the people declare it to be -strengthening food, especially for children; they convert it into -porridge and rude cakes. - -This abundance of provaunt caused a halt of four days at the Ziwa, and -it was spent in disputes between the great Said and the greater Kidogo. -The ostensible “bone of contention,” was cloth advanced by the former to -the porters--who claimed as their perquisite a bullock before entering -Ugogo--without consulting the hard-headed slave, who wounded in his -tenderest place of pride, had influence enough to halt the caravan. The -real cause of the dispute was kept from my ears till some months -afterwards, but secrets in this land are as the Arabs say, “Like musk, -murder, and Basrah-garlic,” they must out, and Bombay, who could never -help blurting forth the tacenda with the dicenda, at last accidentally -unveiled the mystery. Said had deferred taking overcharge of the outfit -from Kidogo till our arrival at the Ziwa, and the latter felt aggrieved -by the sudden yet tardy demand, which deprived him of the dignity and -the profits of stewardship. Sickness became rife in camp, the effect of -the cold night-winds and the burning suns, and as usual when men are -uncomfortable violent quarrels ensued. Again the officious Wazira, shook -the torch of discord by ordering Khamisi, an exceedingly drunken and -debauched son of Ramji, to carry certain bundles which usually graced -the shoulders of Goha, one of the Wak’hutu porters. When words were -exhausted Khamisi drew his blade upon Goha and was tackled by Wazira, -whilst Goha brought the muzzle of my elephant-gun to bear upon Khamisi -and was instantly collared by Bombay. Being thus “in chancery” both -heroes waxed so “exceedingly brave--particular,” that I was compelled to -cool their noble bile with a long pole. At length it became necessary to -make Kidogo raise his veto against the advance of the caravan. He did -not appear before me till summoned half-a-dozen times: when he at last -vouchsafed so to do I dragged rather than led him to the mat, where sat -in surly pride Said bin Salim, with the monocular Jemadar, and I ordered -the trio to quench with the waters of explanation the fire of anger. -After an apparently satisfactory arrangement Kidogo started up and -disappeared in the huts of his men; it presently proved that he had so -done for the purpose of proposing to his party, who were now the sole -interpreters, that to Said bin Salim, an ignoramus in such matters, -should be committed the weighty task of settling the amount of our -blackmail and presents with the greedy chiefs of Ugogo. Had the -mischievous project been carried into execution, we should have been -sufferers to some extent: lack of unanimity however caused the measure -to be thrown out. A march was fixed for the next day, when the bullock, -on this occasion the scape-grace, broke its tether and plunged into the -bush: it was followed by the Baloch and the porters, whose puny arrows, -when they alighted upon the beast’s stern, only goaded it forwards, and -at least threescore matchlock balls were discharged before one bullet -found its billet in the fugitive. The camp of course then demanded -another holiday to eat beef. - -The reader must not imagine that I am making a “great cry,” about a -little matter. Four days are not easily spent when snowed-up in a -country inn, and that is a feeble comparison for the halt in East -Africa, where outfit is leaking away, the valuable travelling-time is -perhaps drawing to a close, health is palpably failing, and nothing but -black faces made blacker still by ill-humour and loud squabbles, meet -the eye and ear. Insignificant things they afterwards appear viewed -through the medium of memory, these petty annoyances of travel; yet at -the moment they are severely felt, and they must be resented -accordingly. The African traveller’s fitness for the task of exploration -depends more upon his faculty of chafing under delays and kicking -against the pricks, than upon his power of displaying the patience of a -Griselda or a Job. - -On the 30th September, the last day of our detention at the Jiwa, -appeared a large caravan headed by Said bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, with -Khalfan bin Khamis, and several other Coast-Arabs. They brought news -from the sea-board, and,--wondrous good fortune!--the portmanteau -containing books which the porter, profiting by the confusion caused by -the swarm of bees, had deposited in the long grass, at the place where I -had directed the slaves to seek it. Some difficulty was at first made -about restitution: the Arab law of “lakit,” or things trove, being -variable, complicated, and altogether opposed to our ideas. However, two -cloths were given to the man who had charge of it, and the Jemadar and -Said bin Salim were sent to recover it by any or all means. The -merchants were not offended. They consented to sell for the sum of -thirty-five dollars a strong and serviceable but an old and obstinate -African ass, which after carrying my companion for many a mile, at last -broke its heart when toiling up the steeps from whose summit the fair -waters of the Central Lake were first sighted. Moreover, they proposed -that for safety and economy the two caravans should travel together -under a single flag, and thus combine to form a total of 190 men. These -Coast-Arabs travelled in comfort. The brother of Said Mohammed had -married the daughter of Fundikira, Sultan of Unyanyembe, and thus the -family had a double home, on the coast and in the interior. All the -chiefs of the caravan carried with them wives and female slaves, negroid -beauties, tall, bulky and “plenty of them,” attired in tulip-hues, -cochineal and gamboge, who walked the whole way, and who when we passed -them displayed an exotic modesty by drawing their head-cloths over -cheeks which we were little ambitious to profane. They had a multitude -of Fundi, or managing men, and male slaves, who bore their personal bag -and baggage, scrip and scrippage, drugs and comforts, stores and -provisions, and who were always early at the ground to pitch, to -surround with a “pai,” or dwarf drain, and to bush for privacy, with -green boughs, their neat and light ridge-tents of American domestics. -Their bedding was as heavy as ours, and even their poultry travelled in -wicker cages. This caravan was useful to us in dealing with the Wagogo: -it always managed, however, to precede us on the march, and to -monopolise the best kraals. The Baloch and the sons of Ramji, when asked -on these occasions why they did not build a palisade, would reply -theatrically, “Our hearts are our fortification!”--methought a sorry -defence. - -By Kidogo’s suggestion I had preferred the middle line through the -hundred miles of dreaded Ugogo: it was the beaten path, and infested -only by four Sultans, namely: 1. Myandozi of Kifukuru. 2. Magomba of -Kanyenye. 3. Maguru-Mafupi of K’hok’ho; and 4. Kibuya of Mdaburu. On the -1st October, 1857, we left the Ziwa late in the morning, and after -passing through the savannahs and the brown jungles of the lower levels, -where giraffe again appeared, the path crested a wave of ground and -debouched upon the table-land of Ugogo. The aspect was peculiar and -unprepossessing. Behind still towered in sight the Delectable Mountains -of Usagara, mist-crowned and robed in the lightest azure, with streaks -of a deep plum-colour, fronting the hot low land of Marenga Mk’hali, -whose tawny face was wrinkled with lines of dark jungle. On the north -was a tabular range of rough and rugged hill, above which rose three -distant cones pointed out as the haunts of the robber Wahumba: at its -base was a deep depression, a tract of brown brush patched with yellow -grass, inhabited only by the elephant, and broken by small outlying -hillocks. Southwards scattered eminences of tree-crowned rock rose a few -yards from the plain which extended to the front, a clearing of deep red -or white soil, decayed vegetation based upon rocky or sandy ground, here -and there thinly veiled with brown brush and golden stubbles: its -length, about four miles, was studded with square villages, and with the -stately but grotesque calabash. This giant is to the vegetable what the -elephant is to the animal world:--the Persians call it the -“practice-work of nature”--its disproportionate conical bole rests upon -huge legs exposed to view by the washing away of the soil, and displays -excrescences which in pious India would merit a coat of vermilion. From -the neck extend gigantic gnarled arms, each one a tree, whose thinnest -twig is thick as a man’s finger, and their weight causes them to droop -earthwards, giving to the outline the shape of a huge dome. In many -parts the unloveliness of its general appearance is varied by the -wrinkles and puckerings which, forming by granulation upon the oblongs -where the bark has been removed for fibre, give the base the appearance -of being chamfered and fluted; and often a small family of trunks, four -or five in number, springs from the same root. At that season all were -leafless; at other times they are densely foliaged, and contrasting with -their large timber and with their coarse fleshy leaf, they are adorned -with the delicatest flowers of a pure virgin-white, which, opening at -early dawn, fade and fall before eventide. The babe-tree issues from the -ground about one foot in diameter: in Ugogo, however, all those observed -were of middle age. The young are probably grubbed up to prevent their -encumbering the ground, and when decayed enough to be easily felled, -they are converted into firewood. By the side of these dry and leafless -masses of dull dead hue, here and there a mimosa or a thorn was -beginning to bear the buds of promise green as emeralds. The sun burned -like the breath of a bonfire, a painful glare--the reflection of the -terrible crystal above,--arose from the hot earth; warm Siroccos raised -clouds of dust, and in front the horizon was so distant, that, as the -Arabs expressed themselves, “a man might be seen three marches off.” - -We were received with the drumming and the ringing of bells attached to -the ivories, with the yells and frantic shouts of two caravans halted at -Kifukuru: one was that of Said Mohammed, who awaited our escort, the -other a return “Safari,” composed of about 1,000 Wanyamwezi porters, -headed by four slaves of Salim bin Rashid, an Arab merchant settled at -Unyanyembe. The country people also flocked to stare at the phenomenon; -they showed that excitement which some few years ago might have been -witnessed in more polished regions when a “horrible murder” roused every -soul from Tweed banks to Land’s End; when, to gratify a morbid -destructiveness, artists sketched, literati described, tourists visited, -and curio-hunters met to bid for the rope and the murderer’s whiskers. -Yet I judged favourably of the Wagogo by their curiosity, which stood -out in strong relief against the apathy and the uncommunicativeness of -the races lately visited. Such inquisitiveness is amongst barbarians -generally a proof of improvability,--of power to progress. One man who -had visited Zanzibar could actually speak a few words of Hindostani, and -in Ugogo, and there only, I was questioned by the chiefs concerning -Uzungu “White-land,” the mysterious end of the world in which beads are -found under ground, and where the women weave such cottons. From the day -of our entering to that of our leaving the country, every settlement -turned out its swarm of gazers, men and women, boys and girls, some of -whom would follow us for miles with explosions of Hi!--i!--i! screams of -laughter and cries of excitement, at a long high trot,--most ungraceful -of motion!--and with a scantiness of toilette which displayed truly -unseemly spectacles. The matrons, especially the aged matrons, realised -Madame Pernelle’s description of an unpleasant female-- - - “Un peu trop forte en gueule et fort impertinente;” - -and of their sex the old men were ever the most pertinacious and -intrusive, the most surly and quarrelsome. Vainly the escort attempted -to arrest the course of this moving multitude of semi-nude barbarity. I -afterwards learned that the two half-caste Arabs who had passed us at -Muhama, Khalfan and Id, the sons of Muallim Salim of Zanzibar, had, -whilst preceding us, spread through Ugogo malevolent reports concerning -the Wazungu. They had one eye each and four arms; they were full of -“knowledge,” which in these lands means magic; they caused rain to fall -in advance and left droughts in their rear; they cooked water melons and -threw away the seeds, thereby generating small-pox; they heated and -hardened milk, thus breeding a murrain amongst cattle; and their wire, -cloth, and beads caused a variety of misfortunes; they were kings of the -sea, and therefore white-skinned and straight-haired--a standing mystery -to these curly-pated people--as are all men who live in salt water; and -next year they would return and seize the country. Suspicion of our -intentions touching “territorial aggrandisement” was a fixed idea: -everywhere the value attached by barbarians to their homes is in inverse -ratio to the real worth of the article. Hence mountaineers are -proverbially patriotic. Thus the lean Bedouins of Arabia and the lank -Somal, though they own that they are starving, never sight a stranger -without suspecting that he is spying out the wealth of the land. “What -will happen to us?” asked the Wagogo; “we never yet saw this manner of -man!” But the tribe cannot now forfeit intercourse with the coast: they -annoyed us to the utmost, they made the use of their wells a daily -source of trouble, they charged us double prices, and when they brought -us provisions for sale, they insisted upon receiving the price of even -the rejected articles; yet they did not proceed to open outrage. Our -timid Arab, the Baloch, the sons of Ramji, and the porters humoured them -in every whim. Kidogo would not allow observations to be taken with a -bright sextant in presence of the mobility. He declined to clear the -space before the tent, as the excited starers, some of whom had come -from considerable distances, were apt under disappointment to wax -violent; and though he once or twice closed the tent-flaps, he would not -remove the lines of men, women, and children, who stretched themselves -for the greater convenience of peeping and peering, lengthways upon the -ground. Whenever a Mnyamwezi porter interfered, he was arrogantly told -to begone, and he slunk away, praying us to remember that these men are -“Wagogo.” Caravan after caravan had thus taught them to become bullies, -whereas a little manliness would soon have reduced them to their proper -level. They are neither brave nor well-armed, and their prestige rests -solely upon their feat in destroying about one generation ago a caravan -of Wanyamwezi--an event embalmed in a hundred songs and traditions. They -seemed to take a fancy to the Baloch, who received from the fair sex -many a little souvenir in the shape of a kid or a water-melon. Whenever -the Goanese Valentine was sent to a village he was politely and -hospitably welcomed, and seated upon a three-legged stool by the -headman; and generally the people agreed in finding fault with their -principal Sultans, declaring that they unwisely made the country hateful -to “Wakonongo,” or travellers. Fortunately for the Expedition several -scions of the race saw the light safely during our transit of Ugogo: had -an accident occurred to a few babies or calves, our return through the -country would have been difficult and dangerous. All received the name -of “Muzungu,” and thus there must now be a small colony of black “white -men” in this part of the African interior. - -At Kifukuru I was delayed a day whilst settling the blackmail of its -Sultan Miyandozi. Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and Kidogo called upon -him in the morning and were received in the gateway of a neat “Tembe,” -the great man disdaining to appear on so trivial an occasion. This -Sultan is the least powerful of the four; he is plundered by the Warori -tribes living to the south-west, and by his western neighbour, Magomba; -his subjects are poorly clad, and are little ornamented compared with -those occupying the central regions, where they have the power to detain -travellers and to charge them exorbitantly for grain and water. Yet -Miyandozi demanded four white and six blue shukkahs; besides which I was -compelled to purchase for him from the sons of Ramji, who of course -charged treble its value, a “Sohari” or handsome silk and cotton -loin-cloth. In return he sent--it appeared to be in irony--one kayla, or -four small measures of grain. The slaves of Salim bin Rashid obliged me -with a few pounds of rice, for which I gave them a return in gunpowder, -and they undertook to convey to Zanzibar a package of reports, indents, -and letters, which was punctually delivered. An ugly accident had nearly -happened that night; the Wanyamwezi porters managed to fire the grass -round a calabash tree, against which they had stretched their loads, and -a powder-magazine--fortunately fire-proof--was blackened and charred by -the flames. A traveller cannot be too careful about his ammunition in -these lands. I have seen a slave smoking a water pipe, tied for -convenience of carriage to a leaky keg of powder; and another in the -caravan of Salim bin Sayf of Dut’humi, resting the muzzle of his musket -against a barrel of ammunition, fired it to try its strength, and blew -himself up with several of his comrades. - -On the 3rd October we quitted Kifukuru in the afternoon, and having -marched nearly six hours we encamped in one of the strips of waterless -brown jungles which throughout Ugogo divide the cultivated districts -from one another, and occupy about half the superficies of the land. The -low grounds, inundated during the rains, were deeply cracked, and my -weak ass, led by the purblind Shahdad, fell with violence upon my knee, -leaving a mixture of pain and numbness which lasted for some months. On -the next day we resumed our journey betimes through a thick rugged -jungle and over a rolling grassy plain, which extended to the frontier -of Kanyenye, where Sultan Magomba rules. The 5th October saw us in the -centre of Kanyenye, a clearing about ten miles in diameter. The surface -is a red tamped clayey soil, dotted with small villages, huge -calabashes, and stunted mimosas; water is found in wells or rather pits -sunk from ten to twelve feet in the lower lands, or in the sandy beds of -the several Fiumaras. Flocks and herds abound, and the country is as -cultivated and populous as the saline nitrous earth, and the scarceness -of the potable element, which often tarnishes silver like sulphur-fumes, -permits. - -At Kanyenye I was delayed four days to settle blackmail with Magomba, -the most powerful of the Wagogo chiefs. He was on this, as on a -subsequent occasion, engaged in settling a cause arising from Uchawi or -Black Magic; yet all agree that in Ugogo, where, to quote the “Royal -Martyr’s” words, - - “Plunder and murder are the kingdom’s laws,” - -there is perhaps less of wizardhood and witchcraft, and consequently -less of its normal consequences, fiscs and massacres, than in any other -region between the Atlantic and the Indian Ocean. “Arrow-heads” employed -every art of wild diplomacy to relieve me of as much cloth as possible. -I received, when encamped at the Ziwa, a polite message declaring his -desire to see white men; but--“the favour of the winds produces dust”--I -was obliged to acknowledge the compliment with two cottons. On arrival -at his head-quarters I was waited upon by an oily cabinet of Wazirs and -elders, who would not depart without their “respects”--four cottons. The -next demand was made by his favourite wife, a peculiarly hideous old -princess with more wrinkles than hairs, with no hair black and no tooth -white, and attended by ladies in waiting as unprepossessing as herself: -she was not to be dismissed without a fee of six cottons. At last, -accompanied by a mob of courtiers, who crowded in like an African House -of Commons, appeared in person the magnifico. He was the only Sultan -that ever entered my tent in Ugogo--pride and a propensity for strong -drink prevented other visits. He was much too great a man to call upon -the Arab merchants, but in our case curiosity had mastered state -considerations. Magomba was a black and wrinkled elder, drivelling and -decrepid, with a half-bald head from whose back and sides depended a few -straggling corkscrews of iron gray: he wore a coat of castor-oil and a -“Barsati” loin-cloth, which grease and use had changed from blue to -black. A few bead strings decorated his neck, large flexible anklets of -brass wire adorned his legs, solid brass rings, single and in coils, -which had distended his earlobes almost to splitting, were tied by a -string over his cranium, and his horny soles were defended by -single-soled sandals, old, dirty, and tattered. He chewed his quid and -he expectorated without mercy; he asked many a silly question, yet he -had ever an eye to the main chance. He demanded and received five -“cloths with names,” which I was again compelled to purchase at an -exorbitant price from the Baloch and slaves, one coil of brass wire, -four blue cottons, and ten “domestics;” the total amounted to fifty -shukkahs, here worth at least fifty dollars, and exhausting nearly -two-thirds of a porter’s load. His return present was the leanest of -calves; when it was driven into camp with much parade, his son, who had -long been looking out for a fit opportunity, put in a claim for three -cottons. - -Magomba before our departure exacted from Kidogo an oath that his -Wazungu would not smite the land with drought or with fatal disease, -declaring that all we had was in his hands. He boasted, and with truth, -of his generosity. It was indeed my firm conviction from first to last, -that in case of attack or surprise I had not a soul except my companion -to stand by me: all those who accompanied us could, and consequently -would, have saved their lives;--_we_ must have perished. We should have -been as safe with six as with sixty guns; but I would by no means apply -to these regions Mr. Galton’s opinion, “that the last fatal expedition -of Mungo Park is full of warning to travellers who propose exploring -with a large body of men.” For though sixty guns do not suffice to -prevent attack in Ugogo, 600 stout fellows armed with the “hot-mouthed -weapon” might march through the length and breadth of Central Africa. - -During our four days’ detention at Kanyenye, I was compelled to waste -string after string of beads in persuading the people to water the -porters and asses. Yet their style of proceeding proved that it was -greed of gain, not scarcity of the element, which was uppermost in their -minds; they would agree to supply us with an unlimited quantity, and -then would suddenly gather round the well and push away the Wanyamwezi, -bidding them go and fetch more beads. All the caravan took the -opportunity of loading itself with salt. Whilst the halt lasted, my -companion brought in a fine-flavoured pallah and other antelopes, with -floriken, guinea-fowl, and partridge. Neither he nor I, however, had -strength enough, nor had we time, to attack the herds of elephants that -roam over the valley whose deep purple line separates the table-land of -Ugogo from the blue hills of the Wahumba to the north. And here, -perhaps, a few words concerning the prospects of sportsmen in this part -of Africa, may save future travellers from the mistake into which I -fell. I expected great things, and returned without realising a single -hope. This portion of the peninsula is a remarkable contrast to the line -traversed by Dr. Livingstone, where the animals standing within bow-shot -were so numerous and fearless, that the burden of provisions was often -unnecessary. In the more populous parts game has melted away before the -woodman’s axe and the hunters’ arrows: even where large tracks of jungle -abound with water and forage, the note of a bird rarely strikes the ear, -and during a long day’s march not a single large animal will be seen -from the beaten track. It is true that in some places, there is - - “---- enough - Of beastes that be chaseable.” - -The park lands of Dut’humi, the jungles and forests of Ugogi and -Mgunda Mk’hali, the barrens of Usukuma, and the tangled thickets of -Ujiji, are full of noble game,--lions and leopards, elephants and -rhinoceroses, wild cattle, giraffes, gnus, zebras, quaggas, and -ostriches. But these are dangerous regions where the sportsman often -cannot linger for a day. Setting aside the minor considerations of -miasma and malaria,--the real or fancied perils of the place, and the -want of food, or the difficulty of procuring water, would infallibly -cause the porters to desert. Here are no Cape-waggons, at once house, -store, and transport; no “Ships of the Desert,” never known to run away; -in fact there is no vehicle but man, and he is so impatient and -headstrong, so suspicious and timorous, that he must be humoured in -every whim. As sportsmen know, it is difficult to combine surveying -operations and collection of specimens with a pursuit which requires all -a man’s time; in these countries, moreover, no merely hunting-expedition -would pay, owing to the extraordinary expense of provisions and -carriage. Thus Venator will be reduced to use his “shooting-iron” on -halting days, and at the several periods of his journey, and his only -consolation will be the prospect of wreaking vengeance upon the -hippopotamus and the crocodile of the coast, if his return there be -entered in the book of Time. Finally, East Africa wants the vast variety -of animals, especially the beautiful antelopes, which enrich the lists -of the Cape Fauna. The tale of those observed in short: the horns of the -oryx were seen, the hartebeest and steinbok, the saltiana and the -pallah,--the latter affording excellent venison,--were shot. The country -generally produces the “Suiya,” a little antelope with reddish coat and -diminutive horns, about the size of an English hare, the swangura, or -sungula, an animal somewhat larger than the saltiana, and of which, -according to the people, the hind only has horns; and at K’hutu my -companion saw a double-horned antelope which he thought resembled the -“Chouka-singa,” (_Tetraceros Quadricornis_) of Nepaul. The species of -birds, also, are scarcely more numerous than the beasts; the feathered -tribe is characterised by sombreness of plumage, and their song is noisy -but not harmonious, unpleasant, perhaps because strange, to the European -ear. - -On the 8th October appeared at Kanyenye a large down-caravan headed by -Abdullah bin Nasib, a Msawahili of Zanzibar, whose African name is -Kisesa. This good man began with the usual token of hospitality, the -gift of a goat, and some measures of the fine Unyanyembe rice, of which -return-parties carry an ample store: he called upon me at once with -several companions,--one of them surprised me not a little by an English -“good morning,”--and he kindly volunteered to halt a day whilst we wrote -reports and letters, life-certificates, and duplicate-indents upon -Zanzibar for extra supplies of drugs and medical comforts, cloth and -beads. The asses were now reduced to five, and as Magomba refused to -part with any of his few animals, at any price,--on the coast I had been -assured that asses were as numerous as dogs in Ugogo--Abdullah gave me -one of his riding-animals, and would take nothing for it except a little -medicine, and a paper acknowledging his civility. Several of the slaves -and porters had been persuaded by the Wagogo to desert, and Abdullah -busied himself to recover them. One man, who had suddenly deposited his -pack upon the path and had disappeared in the jungle during the noonday -halt, was pointed out by a woman to Kidogo, and was found lurking in a -neighbouring village, where the people refused to give him up. Abdullah -sent for Magomba’s four chief “ministers,” and persuaded them to render -active aid: they seized the fellow, took from him his wire and his nine -cloths, appropriated four, and left me five wherewith to engage another -porter. The deserter was of course dismissed, but the severity of the -treatment did not prevent three desertions on the next day. - -The 10th October ushered in an ugly march. Emerging betimes from the -glaring white and red plains of Kanyenye, dotted with fields, villages, -and calabashes, we unloaded in a thin jungle of mimosa and -grass-bunches, near sundry pools, then almost dried up, but still -surrounded by a straggling growth of chamærops and verdurous thorns. The -bush gave every opportunity to the porters, who had dispersed in the -halt, to desert with impunity. In our hurried morning tramp, want of -carriage had caused considerable confusion, and at 2 P.M., when again -the word “load” was given for a tirikeza, everything seemed to go wrong. -Said bin Salim and the Jemadar hurried forwards, leaving me to manage -the departure with Kidogo, who, whilst my companion lay under a calabash -almost unable to move, substituted for his strong Mnyamwezi ass a -wretched animal unable to bear the lightest load. The Baloch Belok was -asked to carry our only gourd full of water; he pleaded sickness as an -excuse. And, when the rear of the caravan was about to march, Kidogo, -who alone knew the way, hastened on so fast that he left us to wander -through a labyrinth of elephants’ tracks, hedged in by thorns and -brambly trees, which did considerable damage to clothes and cutis. - -Having at length found the way, we advanced over a broad, open, and -grassy plain, striped with southwards-trending sandy water-courses of -easy ascent and descent, and lined with a green aromatic vegetation, in -which the tall palm suggested a resemblance to the valley-plains of the -Usagara Mountains. As night fell upon us like a pall, we entered the -broken red ground that limits the flat westwards, and, ascending a dark -ridge of broken, stony, ground, and a dense thorn-bush, we found -ourselves upon a higher level. The asses stumbled, the men grumbled, and -the want of water severely tried the general temper. - -From this cold jungle--the thermometer showed a minimum of 54° F.--we -emerged at dawn on the 11th October, and after three hours’ driving -through a dense bush of various thorns, with calabashes reddened by the -intense heat, and tripping upon the narrow broken path that ran over -rolling ground, we found the porters halted at some pits full of sweet -clear water. Here the caravan preserved a remarkable dead silence. I -inquired the cause. The Coast-Arabs who accompanied us were trying an -experiment, which, had it failed, would have caused trouble, expense, -and waste of time; they were attempting to pass without blackmail the -little clearing of Usek’he, which lay to the south of the desert-road, -and they knew that its Sultan, Ganza Mikono, usually posted a party upon -the low masses of bristling hill hard by, to prevent caravans evading -his dues. As no provisions were procurable in the jungle, it was judged -better to proceed, and the sun was in the zenith before we reached the -district of K’hok’ho. We halted under a spreading tree, near the -head-quarter village of its villanous Sultan, in an open plain of millet -and panicum-stubbles. Presently Kidogo, disliking the appearance of -things--the men, rushing with yells of excitement from their villages, -were forming a dense ring around us; the even more unmanageable old -women stared like _sages femmes_, and already a Mnyamwezi porter had -been beaten at the well--stirred us up and led the way to an open jungle -about a mile distant. There we were safe; no assailant would place -himself upon the plain, the Coast-Arabs were close at hand, and in the -bush we should have been more than a match for the Wagogo. - -The Baloch, fatigued by the tedious marches of the last two days, had -surlily refused their escort to our luggage, as well as to ourselves. -When the camp was pitched, I ordered a goat to be killed; and, serving -out rations to the sons of Ramji and the porters, I gave them none, a -cruel punishment to men whose souls centered in their ingesta. The -earlier part of the evening was spent by them in enumerating their -grievances--they were careful to speak in four dialects, so that all -around might understand them, in discussing their plans of desertion, -and in silencing the contradiction of their commander, the monocular -Jemadar, who, having forsworn opium, now headed the party in opposition -to the mutineers. They complained that they were faint for want of -meat--the fellows were driving a bullock and half a dozen goats, which -they had purchased with cloth, certainly not their own. I had, they -grumbled, given them no ghee or honey, consequently they were obliged to -“eat dry”--they knew this to be false, as they had received both at -Kanyenye. We had made them march ten “Cos” in our eagerness to obtain -milk--they were the first to propose reaching a place where provisions -were procurable. The unmanageables, Khudabakhsh, Shahdad, and Belok, -proposed an immediate departure, but a small majority carried the day in -favour of desertion next morning. Kidogo and the sons of Ramji -ridiculed, as was their wont, the silly boasters with, “Of a truth, -brethren! the coast is far off, and ye are hungry men!” On the ensuing -day, when a night’s reflection had cooled down their noble bile, they -swallowed their words like buttered parsnips. I heard no more of their -plans, and in their demeanour they became cringing as before. - -The transit of the K’hok’ho clearing, which is also called the Nyika, or -wilderness, is considered the nucleus of travellers’ troubles in Ugogo. -The difficulty is caused by its Sultan, M’ana Miaha, popularly known as -Maguru Mafupi, or Short-shanks. This petty tyrant, the most powerful, -however, of the Wagogo chiefs, is a toothache to strangers, who complain -that he cannot even plunder _à l’aimable_. He was described to me as a -short elderly man, nearly bald, chocolate-coloured, and remarkable for -the duck-like conformation which gave origin to his nickname. His dress -was an Arab check round his loins, and another thrown over his -shoulders. He becomes man, idiot, and beast with clockwork-regularity -every day; when not disguised in liquor he is surly and unreasonable, -and when made merry by his cups he refuses to do business. He is in the -habit of detaining Wanyamwezi caravans to hoe his fields, and he often -applies them to a _corvée_ of five or six days during the spring-time, -before he will consent to receive his blackmail. - -We were delayed five days at K’hok’ho to lay in provisions for four -marches, and by the usual African pretexts, various and peculiar. On the -afternoon of arrival it would have been held indecent haste to trouble -His Highness. On the first morning His Highness’s spouse was unwell, and -during the day he was “sitting upon Pombe,” in other words, drinking -beer. On the second he received, somewhat scurvily, a deputation headed -by Said bin Salim, the Coast-Arab merchants, and the Jemadar. Two -Wazagira, or chief-councillors, did the palaver, which was conducted, -for dignity, outside the royal hovel. He declared that the two caravans -must compound separately, and that in my case he would be satisfied with -nothing under six porters’ loads. As about one-twelfth of his demand was -offered to him, he dismissed them with ignominy, affirming that he held -me equal to the Sayyid of Zanzibar, and accordingly that he should -demand half the outfit. The third day was spent by the Coast-Arabs in -haggling with the courtiers before His Highness, who maintained a solemn -silence, certainly the easiest plan; and the present was paraded, as is -customary on such occasions, in separate heaps, each intended for a -particular person, but Her Highness, justly offended by the flimsiness -of a bit of chintz, seized a huge wooden ladle and hooted and hunted the -offenders out of doors. After high words the Arabs returned, and -informed me that things were looking desperate. I promised assistance in -case of violence being offered to them,--a civility which they -acknowledged by sending a shoulder of beef. The fourth day was one of -dignified idleness. We received a message that the court was again -sitting upon Pombe, and we too well understood that His Highness, with -his spouse and cabinet, were drunk as drunk could be. On the morning of -the fifth day, a similar delaying process was attempted; but as the -testy Kidogo, who had taken the place of the tame Said, declared that -the morrow should see us march in the afternoon, the present was -accepted, and the two or three musket shots usual on such occasions -sounded the joyful tidings that we were at liberty to proceed. The -unconscionable extortioner had received one coil of brass wire, four -“cloths with names,” eight domestics, eight blue cottons, and thirty -strings of coral beads. Not contented with this, he demanded two Arab -checks, and these failing, a double quantity of beads, and another -domestic. I compromised the affair with six feet of crimson broadcloth, -an article which I had not produced, as the Coast-Arabs, who owned none, -declared that such an offering would cause difficulties in their case. -But as they charged me double and treble prices for the expensive cloths -which the Sultan required, and which, as they had been omitted in our -outfit, it was necessary to purchase from them, I at length thought -myself justified in economising by the only means in my power. The -fiery-tempered Coast-Arabs left K’hok’ho with rage in their hearts and -curses under their tongues. These men usually think outside their heads, -but they know that in Ugogo the merest pretext--the loosing a hot word, -touching a woman, offending a boy, or taking in vain the name of the -Sultan--infallibly leads to being mulcted in cloth. - -I was delighted to escape from the foul strip of crowded jungle in which -we had halted. A down-caravan of Wanyamwezi had added its quotum of -discomfort to the place. Throughout the fiery day we were stung by the -Tzetze, and annoyed by swarms of bees and pertinacious gadflies. On one -occasion an army of large poisonous siyafu, or black pismire, drove us -out of the tent by the wounds which it inflicted between the fingers and -on other tender parts of the body, before a kettle of boiling water -persuaded them to abandon us. These ant-fiends made the thin-skinned -asses mad with torture. The nights were cold and raw, and when we awoke -in the morning we found some valuable article rendered unserviceable by -the termites. K’hok’ho was an ill-omened spot. There my ass “Seringe,” -sole survoice of the riding animals brought from Zanzibar, was so torn -by a hyæna that I was compelled to leave it behind. I was afterwards -informed that it had soon died of its wounds. The next mishap was the -desertion of the fifteen Wanyamwezi porters who had been hired and paid -at Ugogi. These men had slept in the same kraal with the somnolent sons -of Ramji, and had stealthily disappeared during the night. As usual, -though they carried off their own, they had left our loads behind, that -they might reach their homes with greater speed. They would choose a -jungle road, to avoid the danger of slavery, and living the while upon -roots and edible grasses, would traverse the desert separating them from -their country in three or four days. This desertion of fifteen men first -suggested to me that my weary efforts and wearing anxiety about carriage -were to a certain extent self-inflictions. Expecting to see half the -outfit left upon the ground, I was surprised by the readiness with which -it disappeared. The men seemed to behave best whenever things were -palpably at the worst; besides which, as easily as the baggage of 50 -porters was distributed amongst 100, so easily were the loads of 100 men -placed upon the shoulders of 50. Indeed, the original Wanyamwezi gang, -who claimed by right extra pay for carrying extra weight, though -fiercely opposed to lifting up an empty gourd gratis, were ever docile -when a heavier pack brought with it an increase of cloth and beads. - -However, the march on the 17th October had its trifling hardships. My -companion rode forward on the ass lately given to us by Abdullah bin -Nasib, whilst I, remaining behind and finding that no carriage could be -procured for two bags of clothes and shoes, placed them upon my animal -the Mnyamwezi bought at Inenge, inasmuch as it appeared somewhat -stronger than the half-dozen wretched brutes that flung themselves upon -the ground apparently too fagged to move. I had, however, overrated its -powers: it soon became evident that I must walk, or that the valuable -cargo must be left behind. Trembling with weakness, I set out to -traverse the length of the Mdáburu Jungle. The memory of that march is -not pleasant: the burning sun and the fiery reflected heat arising from -the parched ground--here a rough, thorny, and waterless jungle, where -the jasmine flowered and the frankincense was used for fuel; there a -grassy plain of black and sun-cracked earth--compelled me to lie down -every half-hour. The watergourds were soon drained by my attendant -Baloch; and the sons of Ramji, who, after reaching the resting-place, -had returned with ample stores for their comrades, hid their vessels on -my approach. Sarmalla, a donkey-driver, the model of a surly negro, -whose crumpled brow, tightened eyes and thick lips which shot-out on the -least occasion of excitement, showed what was going on within his head, -openly refused me the use of his gourd, and--thirst is even less to be -trifled with than hunger--found ample reason to repent himself of the -proceeding. Near the end of the jungle I came upon a party of the -Baloch, who, having seized upon a porter belonging to a large caravan of -Wanyamwezi that had passed us on that march, were persuading him, half -by promises and half by threats, to carry their sleeping mats and their -empty gourds. The strict and positive orders as regards enticing away -deserters which I had issued at Inenge, were looked upon by them, in -their all-engrossing egotism, as a mere string of empty words. I could -do nothing beyond threatening to report their conduct to their master, -and dismissing the man, who obviously stood in fear of death, with his -tobacco and hoes duly counted back to him. Towards the end of that long -march I saw with pleasure the kindly face of Seedy Bombay, who was -returning to me in hot haste, leading an ass, and carrying a few scones -and hard-boiled eggs. Mounting, I resumed my way, and presently arrived -at the confines of Mdáburu, where, under a huge calabash, stood our -tent, amidst a kraal of grass boothies, surrounded by a heaped-up ridge -of thorns. - -Mdáburu is the first important district in the land of Uyanzi, which, -beginning from Western K’hok’ho, extends as far as Tura, the eastern -frontier of Unyamwezi-land. It is a fertile depression of brick-red -earth, bisected by a broad, deep, and sandy Fiumara, which, trending -southwards, supplies from five pits water in plenty even during the -driest season. It is belted on all sides by a dense jungle, over whose -dark brown line appeared the summits of low blue cones, and beyond them -long streaks of azure ridge, beautified by distance into the semblance -of a sea. We were delayed two days at this, the fourth and westernmost -district of Ugogo. It was necessary to lay in a week’s provision for the -party--ever a tedious task in these regions, but more especially in the -dead of winter--moreover, the Sultan Kibuya expected the settlement of -his blackmail. From this man we experienced less than the usual -incivility: by birth a Mkimbu foreigner, and fearing at that time wars -and rumours of wars on the part of his villanous neighbour, Maguru -Mafupi, he contented himself with a present which may be estimated at -nineteen cloths, whereas the others had murmured at forty and fifty. -However, he abated nothing of his country’s pretentious pride. A black, -elderly man, dressed in a grimy cloth, without other ornament but a -broad ivory bracelet covering several inches of his right wrist, he at -first refused to receive the deputation because his “ministers” were -absent; and during the discourse about the amount of blackmail, he sat -preserving an apathetic silence, outside his dirty lodging in the huge -kraal which forms his capital. The demand concluded with a fine -silk-cotton cloth, on the part of his wife; and when “ma femme” appears -on such occasions in these regions, as in others further west, it is a -sure sign that the stranger is to be taken in. As usual with the East -African chiefs, Kibuya was anxious to detain me, not only in order that -his people might profitably dispose of their surplus stores, but also -because the presence of so many guns would go far to modify the plans of -his enemies. His attempts at delay, however, were skilfully -out-manœuvred by Said bin Salim, who broke through all difficulties with -the hardihood of fear. The little man’s vain terrors made him put the -ragged kraal which surrounded us into a condition of defence, and every -night he might be seen stalking like a troubled spirit amongst the forms -of sleeping men. - -At Mdáburu I hired two porters from the caravan that accompanied us; and -Said bin Salim began somewhat tardily to take the usual precautions -against desertion. He was ordered, before the disappearance of the -porters that levanted at K’hok’ho, to pack their hire in our loads, and -every evening to chain up the luggage heaped in front of our tent. The -accident caused by his neglect rendered him now quasi-obedient. -Moreover, two or three Baloch were told off to precede the line, and as -many to bring up the rear. The porters, as I have said, hold it a point -of honour not to steal their packs; but if allowed to straggle forwards, -or to loiter behind, they will readily attempt the recovery of their -goods by opening their burdens, which they afterwards abandon upon the -road. The Coast-Arabs, in return for some small shot, which is here -highly prized, assisted me by carrying some surplus luggage. Amongst -other articles, two kegs of gunpowder were committed to them: both were -punctually returned at Unyanyembe, where gunpowder sells at two cloths, -or half a Frasilah (17·5 lbs.) of ivory per lb; but the bungs had been -stove in, and a quarter of the contents had evaporated. The evening of -the second day’s halt closed on us before the rations for the caravan -were collected, and seventeen shukkah, with about a hundred strings of -beads, barely produced a sufficiency of grain. - -From the Red Vale of Mdáburu three main lines traverse the desert -between Ugogo and Unyamwezi. The northernmost, called Njia T’humbi, -leads in a west-north-westerly direction to Usukuma. Upon this track are -two sultans and several villages. The central “Karangásá,” or “Mdáburu,” -is that which will be described in the following pages. The -southernmost, termed Uyánzi, sets out from K’hok’ho, and passes through -the settlements known by the name of Jiwe lá Singá. It is avoided by the -porters, dreading to incur the wrath of Sultan Kibuyá, who would resent -their omitting to visit his settlement, M’dáburu. - -These three routes pass through the heart of the great desert and -elephant-ground “Mgunda Mk’hali”--explained by the Arabs to mean in -Kinyamwezi, the Fiery “Shamba” or Field. Like Marenga Mk’hali, it is a -desert, because it contains no running water nor wells, except after -rain. The name is still infamous, but its ill-fame rests rather upon -tradition than actuality; in fact, its dimensions are rapidly shrinking -before the torch and axe. About fifteen years ago it contained twelve -long stages, and several tirikeza; now it is spanned in eight marches. -The wildest part is the first half from Mdáburu to Jiwe lá Mkoa, and -even here, it is reported, villages of Wakimbu are rising rapidly on the -north and south of the road. The traveller, though invariably threatened -with drought and the death of cattle, will undergo little hardship -beyond the fatigue of the first three forced marches through the “Fiery -Field;” in fact, he will be agreeably surprised by its contrast with the -desert of Marenga Mk’hali. - -From east to west the diagonal breadth of Mgunda Mk’hali is 140 miles. -The general aspect is a dull uniform bush, emerald-coloured during the -rains, and in the heats a network of dry and broom-like twigs. Except -upon the banks of nullahs--“rivers” that are not rivers--the trees, as -in Ugogo, wanting nutriment, never afford timber, and even the calabash -appears stunted. The trackless waste of scrub, called the “bush” in -Southern Africa, is found in places alternating with thin gum-forest; -the change may be accounted for by the different depths of water below -the level of the ground. It is a hardy vegetation of mimosas and gums -mixed with evergreen succulent plants, cactaceæ, aloes, and euphorbias: -the grass, sometimes tufty, at other times equally spread, is hard and -stiff; when green it feeds cattle, and when dry it is burned in places -by passing caravans to promote the growth of another crop. - -The groundwork of Mgunda Mk’hali is a detritus of yellowish quartz, in -places white with powdered felspar, and, where vegetation decays, -brown-black with humus. Water-worn pebbles are sprinkled over the earth, -and the vicinity of Fiumaras abounds in a coarse and modern -sandstone-conglomerate. Upon the rolling surface, and towering high -above the tallest trees, are based the huge granitic and syenitic -outcrops before alluded to. The contrast between the masses and the -dwarf rises which support them at once attracts the eye. Here and there -the long waves that diversify the land appear in the far distance like -blue lines bounding the nearer superficies of brown or green. Throughout -this rolling table-land the watershed is to the south. In rare places -the rains stagnate in shallow pools, which become systems of mud-cakes -during the drought. At this season water is often unprocurable in the -Fiumaras, causing unaccustomed hardships to caravans, and death to those -beasts which, like the elephant and the buffalo, cannot long exist -without drinking. - -On the 20th October we began the transit of the “Fiery Field,” whose -long broad line of brown jungle, painted blue by the intervening air, -had, since leaving K’hok’ho, formed our western horizon. The waste here -appeared in its most horrid phase. The narrow goat-path serpentined in -and out of a growth of poisonous thorny jungle, with thin, hard -grass-straw, growing on a glaring white and rolling ground; the view was -limited by bush and brake, as in the alluvial valleys of the maritime -region, and in weary sameness the spectacle surpassed everything that we -had endured in Marenga Mk’hali. We halted through the heat of the day at -some water-pits in a broken course; and resuming our tedious march early -in the afternoon, we arrived about sunset at the bed of a shallow -nullah, where the pure element was found in sand-holes about five feet -deep. - -On the 2nd day we reached the large Mabunguru Fiumara, a deep and -tortuous gash of fine yellow quartzoze sand and sunburnt blocks of -syenite: at times it must form an impassable torrent, even at this -season of severe drought it afforded long pools of infiltrated -rain-water, green with weeds and abounding with shell-fish, and with the -usual description of Silurus. In the earlier morning the path passed -through a forest already beautified by the sprouting of tender green -leaves and by the blooming of flowers, amongst which was a large and -strongly perfumed species of jasmine, whilst young grass sprouted from -the fire-blackened remnants of the last year’s crop. Far upon the -southern horizon rose distant hills and lines, blue, as if composed of -solidified air, and mocking us by their mirage-likeness to the ocean. -Nearer, the ground was diversified by those curious evidences of igneous -action, which extend westward through eastern Unyamwezi, and northwards -to the shores of the Nyanza Lake. These outcrops of gray granite and -syenite are principally of two different shapes, the hog’s back and the -turret. The former usually appears as a low lumpy dome of various -dimensions; here a few feet long, there extending a mile and a half in -diameter: the outer coat scales off under the action of the atmosphere, -and in places it is worn away by a network of paths. The turret is a -more picturesque and changing feature. Tall rounded blocks and conical -or cylindrical boulders, here single, there in piles or ridges, some -straight and stiff as giant ninepins, others split as if an alley or a -gateway passed between them, rise abruptly and perpendicularly almost -without foundationary elevation, cleaving the mould of a dead plain, -or--like gypseous formations, in which the highest boulders are planted -upon the lowest and broadest bases--they bristle upon a wave of -dwarfish rocky hill. One when struck was observed to give forth a -metallic clink, and not a few, balanced upon points, reminded me of the -tradition-bearing rocking stones. At a distance in the forest, the -larger masses might be mistaken for Cyclopean walls, towers, steeples, -minarets, loggans, dwelling houses, and ruined castles. They are often -overgrown with a soft grass, which decaying, forms with the degradation -of the granite a thin cap of soil; their summits are crowned with tufty -cactus, a stomatiferous plant which imbibes nourishment from the oxygen -of the air; whilst huge creepers, imitating trees, project gnarled -trunks from the deeper crevices in their flanks. Seen through the forest -these rocks are an effective feature in the landscape, especially when -the sunbeams fall warm and bright upon their rounded summits and their -smooth sides, here clothed with a mildew-like lichen of the tenderest -leek-green, there yellowed like Italian marbles by the burning rays, and -there streaked with a shining black as if glazed by the rain, which, -collecting in cupfuls upon the steps and slopes, at times overflows, -coursing in mimic cataracts down the heights. - -That march was a severe trial; we had started at dawn, we did not, -however, arrive at the Mabunguru Fiumara before noon, and our people -straggled in about eveningtide. All our bullet-moulds, and three boxes -of ammunition, were lost. Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and three other -men had followed in the rear, driving on the “One-Eyed Fiend,” which, -after many a prank, lay down upon the ground, and positively declined to -move. The escort, disliking the sun, abandoned it at once to its fate, -and want of provisions, and the inordinate length of the marches, -rendered a halt or a return for the valuable load--four boxes of -ammunition--out of the question. An article once abandoned in these -deserts is rarely if ever recovered; the caravan-porters will not halt, -and a small party dares not return to recover it. - -The 22nd October saw us at Jiwe la Mkoa, the half-way-house of Mgunda -Mk’hali. The track, crossing the rough Mabunguru Fiumara, passed over -rolling ground through a thorny jungle that gradually thinned out into a -forest; about 8 A.M. a halt was called at a water in the wilderness. My -companion being no longer able to advance on foot, an ass was unloaded, -and its burden of ammunition was divided, for facility of porterage, -amongst the sons of Ramji. After noon we resumed our march, and the -Kirangozi, derided by the rival guide of the Coast-Arabs’ caravan, and -urged forward by Kidogo, who was burning to see his wife and children in -Unyamwezi, determined to “put himself at the head of himself.” The -jungle seemed interminable. The shadows of the hills lengthened out upon -the plains, the sun sank in the glory of purple, crimson, and gold, and -the crescent-moon rained a flood of silvery light upon the topmost -twig-work of the trees; we passed a dwarf clearing, where lodging and -perhaps provisions were to be obtained, and we sped by water near the -road where the frogs were chanting their vesper-hymn; still far,--far -ahead we heard the horns and the faint march-cries of the porters. At -length, towards the end of the march, we wound round a fantastic mass of -cactus-clad boulders, and crossing a low ridge we found at its base a -single Tembe or square village of emigrant Wakimbu, who refused to admit -us. The little basin beyond it displayed, by “black jacks” and felled -tree-trunks, evidences of modern industry, and it extended to the Jiwe -or Rock, which gives its name to the clearing. We were cheered by the -sight of the red fires glaring in the Kraal, but my companion’s ass, -probably frightened by some wild beast to us invisible, reared high in -the air, bucked like a deer, broke his frail Arab girths, and threw his -invalid rider heavily upon the hard earth. Arrived at the Kraal, I found -every boothy occupied by the porters, who refused shelter until dragged -out like slaughtered sheep. Said bin Salim’s awning was as usual snugly -pitched; ours still lay on the ground. The little Arab’s “duty to -himself” appeared to attain a higher limit every stage; once comfortably -housed, he never thought of offering cover to another, and his children -knew him too well even to volunteer such a service to any one but -himself. On a late occasion, when our tent had not appeared, Said bin -Salim, to whom a message had been sent, refused to lend us one half of -the awning committed to him, a piece of canvas cut out to serve as a -tent and lug-sail. Bombay then distinguished himself by the memorable -words,--“If you are not ashamed of your master, be ashamed of his -servant!” which had the effect of bringing the awning and of making Said -bin Salim testily refuse the half returned to him. - -Jiwe la Mkoa, or the Round Rock, is the largest of the many hogs’-backs -of grey syenite that stud this waste. It measures about two miles in -extreme diameter, and the dome rises with a gentle slope to the height -of 200 or 300 feet above the dead level of the plain. Tolerable water is -found in pits upon a swamp at its southern base, and well covered Mtego -or elephant traps, deep grave-like excavations, like the Indian “Ogi,” -prove dangerous to travellers; in one of these the Jemadar disappeared -suddenly, as if by magic. The smooth and rounded surface of the rock -displays deep hoof-shaped holes, which in a Moslem land would at once be -recognised as the Asr, or the footprints of those holy quadrupeds, -Duldul or Zu’l Jenah. In places the Jiwe, overgrown with scattered tufts -of white grass, and based upon a dusty surface blackened by torrent -rains, forcibly suggested to the Baloch the idea of an elderly negro’s -purbald poll. - -We encamped close to the Jiwe, and in so doing we did wrong: however -pleasant may be the shadow of a tall rock in a thirsty land by day, -way-wise travellers avoid the vicinity of stones which, by diminished -radiation, retain their heat throughout the night. All caravans passing -through this clearing clamour to be supplied with provisions; our -porters, who, having received rations for eight days, which they -consumed in four, were no exceptions to the rule. As the single little -village of Jiwe la Mkoa could afford but one goatskin of grain and a few -fowls, the cattle not being for sale, and no calves having been born to -the herds, the porters proposed to send a party with cloth and beads to -collect provaunt from the neighbouring settlements. But the notable -Khalfan bin Khamis, the most energetic of the Coast-Arabs in whose -company we were travelling, would brook no delay: he had issued as usual -three days’ rations for a long week’s march, and thus by driving his -porters beyond their speed, he practised a style of economy usually -categorised by us at home as “penny-wise and pound-foolish.” His -marching was conducted upon the same principle; determining to save -time, he pushed on till his men began to flag, presently broke down, and -finally deserted. - -At Jiwe la Mkoa the neck of the desert is broken: the western portion of -Mgunda Mk’hali has already thinned out. On the 23rd October, despite the -long march of the preceding day, Khalfan proposed a Tirikeza, declaring -that the heavy nimbus from the west, accompanied by a pleasant cold, -portended rain, and that this rain, like the “Choti Barsat” of India, -announces the approach of the great Masika, or vernal wet season. -Yielding to his reasons, we crossed the “Round Rock,” and passing -through an open forest of tall trees, with here and there an undulating -break, now yellow with quartz, then black with humus, we reached, after -about three hours, another clearing like Jiwe la Mkoa, which owes its -origin to the requirements of commerce. “Kirurumo” boasted of several -newly built Tembe of Wakimbu, who supplied caravans at an exorbitant -rate. The blackness of the ground, and the vivid green of vegetation, -evidenced the proximity of water. The potable element was found in pits, -sunk in a narrow nullah running northwards across the clearing; it was -muddy and abundant. On the next day the road led through a thin forest -of thorns and gums, which, bare of bush and underwood, afforded a broad -path and pleasant, easy travelling. Sign of elephant and rhinoceros, -giraffe and antelope, crossed the path, and as usual in such places, the -asses were tormented by the Tzetze. After travelling four hours and -thirty minutes, we reached a new settlement upon the western frontier of -Uganzi, called “Jiweni,” “near the stones,” from the heaps of block and -boulder scattered round pits of good water, sunk about three feet in the -ground. The Mongo Nullah, a deep surface-drain, bisects this clearing, -which is palpably modern. Many of the trees are barked previous to -felling, and others have fallen prostrate, apparently from the -depredations of the white ant. On the 25th, after another desert march -of 2 hrs. 20′ through a flat country, where the forest was somewhat -deformed by bush and brake, which in places narrowed the path to a mere -goat-track, we arrived at the third quarter of Mgunda Mk’hali. “Mgongo -T’hembo,” or the Elephant’s Back, derives its name from a long narrow -ridge of chocolate-coloured syenite, outcropping from the low forest -lands around it; the crest of the chain is composed of loose rocks and -large detached boulders. Like the other inhabited portions of Mgunda -Mk’hali, it is a recent clearing; numerous “black-jacks,” felled trees, -and pollarded stumps still cumber the fields. The “Elephant’s Back” is, -however, more extensive and better cultivated than any of its -neighbours,--Mdáburu alone excepted,--and water being abundant and near -the surface, it supports an increasing population of mixed Wakimbu and -Wataturu, who dwell in large substantial Tembe, and live by selling -their surplus holcus, maize, and fowls to travellers. They do not, like -the Wakimbu of Jiwe la Mkoa, refuse entrance to their villages, but they -receive the stranger with the usual niggard guest-rites of the -slave-path, and African-like, they think only of what is to be gained by -hospitality. Here I halted for a day to recruit and to lay in rations. -The length of the stages had told upon the men; Bombay had stumped -himself, several of the sons of Ramji, and two of Said bin Salim’s -children were unable to walk; the asses, throwing themselves upon the -ground, required to be raised with the stick, and all preferred rest -even to food. Mboni, one of the sons of Ramji, carried off a slave girl -from the camp of the Coast-Arabs; her proprietor came armed to recover -her, swords were drawn, a prodigious clash and clatter of tongue arose, -friends interfered, and blades were sheathed. Khalfan bin Khamis, losing -all patience at this delay, bade us adieu, promising to announce our -approach at Unyanyembe; about a week afterwards, however, we found him -in most melancholy plight, halted half-way, because his over-worked -porters had taken “French leave.” - -We resumed our march on the 27th October, and after a slow and painful -progress for seven hours over a rolling country, whose soil was now -yellow with argile, then white with felspar, then black-brown with -humus, through thorny bush, and forest here opening out, there densely -closing in, we arrived at the “Tura Nullah,” the deepest of the many -surface drains winding tortuously to the S. W. The trees lining the -margin were of the noblest dimensions; the tall thick grass that hedged -them in showed signs of extensive conflagration, and water was found in -shallow pools and in deep pits beneath the banks, on the side to which -the stream, which must be furious during the rainy season, swings. When -halted in a clear place in the jungle, we were passed by a down caravan -of Wanyamwezi; our porters shouted and rushed up to greet their friends, -the men raised their right hands about a dozen times, and then clapped -palm to palm, and the women indulged in “vigelegele,” the African -“lulliloo,” which rang like breech-loaders in our ears. - -On the next day we set out betimes through the forest, which, as usual -when nearing populous settlements, spread out, and which began at this -season to show a preponderance of green over brown. Presently we reached -a large expanse of yellow stover where the van had halted, in order that -the caravan might make its first appearance with dignity. Ensued a -clearing, studded with large stockaded villages, peering over tall -hedges of dark green milk-bush, fields of maize and millet, manioc, -gourds, and water-melons, and showing numerous flocks and herds, -clustering around the shallow pits. The people swarmed from their -abodes, young and old hustling one another for a better stare; the man -forsook his loom and the girl her hoe, and for the remainder of the -march we were escorted by a tail of screaming boys and shouting adults; -the males almost nude, the women, bare to the waist and clothed only -knee-deep in kilts, accompanied us, puffing pipes the while, with -wallets of withered or flabby flesh flapping the air, striking their -hoes with stones, crying “Beads! beads!” and ejaculating their wonder in -strident explosions of “Hi! hi!--Hui! ih!” and “Ha!--a!--a!” It was a -spectacle to make an anchorite of a man,--it was at once ludicrous and -disgusting. - -At length the Kirangozi fluttered his red flag in the wind, and the -drums, horns, and larynxes of his followers began the fearful uproar -which introduces a caravan to the admiring “natives.” Leading the way, -our guide, much to my surprise,--I knew not then that such was the -immemorial custom of Unyamwezi,--entered uninvited and sans ceremony the -nearest large village; the long string of porters flocked in with bag -and baggage, and we followed their example. The guests at once dispersed -themselves through the several courts and compounds into which the -interior hollow was divided, and lodged themselves with as much regard -for self and disregard for their grumbling hosts as possible. We were -placed under a wall-less roof, bounded on one side by the bars of the -village palisade, and the mob of starers that relieved one another from -morning till night made me feel like the denizen of a menagerie. - -[Illustration: Usagara Mountains, seen from Ugogo.] - - - - -CHAP. IX. - -THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOGRAPHY OF UGOGO,--THE THIRD REGION. - - -The third division of the country visited is a flat table-land extending -from the Ugogi “Dhun,” or valley, at the western base of the Wasagara -Mountains, in E. long. 36° 14′, to Tura, the eastern district of -Unyamwezi, in E. long. 33° 57′; occupying a diagonal breadth of 155 -geographical rectilinear miles. The length from north to south is not so -easily estimated. The Wahumba and the Wataturu in the former, and the -Wahehe and Warori in the latter direction, are migratory tribes that -spurn a civilised frontier; according to the Arabs, however, the Wagogo -extend three long marches on an average to the north and four or five -southwards. This, assuming the march at 15 miles, would give a total of -120. The average of the heights observed is 3,650 feet, with a gradual -rise westwards to Jiwe la Mkoa, which attains an altitude of 4,200 -feet(?). - -The third region, situated to leeward of a range whose height compels -the south-east trades to part with their load of vapours, and distant -from the succession of inland seas, which, stationed near the centre of -the African continent, act as reservoirs to restore the balance of -humidity, is an arid, sterile land, a counterpart, in many places, of -the Kalahari and the Karroo, or South African desert-plains. The general -aspect is a glaring yellow flat, darkened by long growths of acrid, -saline, and succulent plants, thorny bush, and stunted trees, and the -colouring is monotonous in the extreme. It is sprinkled with isolated -dwarf cones bristling with rocks and boulders, from whose interstices -springs a thin forest of gums, thorns, and mimosas. The power of igneous -agency is displayed in protruding masses of granitic formation, which -rise from the dead level with little foundationary elevation; and the -masses of sandstone, superincumbent upon the primitive base in other -parts of the country, here disappear. On the north rises the long -tabular range of the Wahumba Hills, separated by a line of lower ground -from the plateau. Southwards, a plain, imperceptibly shelving, trends -towards the Rwaha River. There are no rivers in Ugogo: the periodical -rains are carried off by large nullahs, whose clay banks are split and -cut during the season of potent heat into polygonal figures like piles -of columnar basalt. On the sparkling nitrous salinas and the dull-yellow -or dun-coloured plains the mirage faintly resembles the effects of -refraction in desert Arabia. The roads are mere foot-tracks worn through -the fields and bushes. The kraals are small dirty circles enclosing a -calabash or other tree, against which goods are stacked. The boothies -are made of dried canes and stubble, surrounded by a most efficient -_chevaux de frise_ of thorn-boughs. At the end of the dry season they -are burnt down by inevitable accident. The want of wood prevents their -being made solidly, and for the same reason “bois de vache” is the usual -fuel of the country. - -The formation of the subsoil is mostly sandstone bearing a ruddy sand. -The surface is in rare places a brown vegetable humus, extending but a -few inches in depth, or more generally a hard yellow-reddish ferruginous -clay covered with quartz nodules of many colours, and lumps of carbonate -of lime, or white and siliceous sand, rather resembling a well-metalled -road or an “untidy expanse of gravel-walk” than the rich moulds which -belong to the fertile African belt. In many parts are conical anthills -of pale red earth; in others ironstone crops out of the plain; and -everywhere fine and coarse grits abound. The land is in parts condemned -to perpetual drought, and nowhere is water either good or plentiful. It -is found in the serpentine beds of nullahs, and after rain in ziwa, -vleys, tanks, pools, or ponds, filled by a gentle gravitation, and -retained by a strong clay, in deep pits excavated by the people, or in -shallow holes “crowed” in the ground. The supplies of this necessary -divide the country into three great districts. On the east is Marenga -Mk’hali, a thick bush, where a few villages, avoided by travellers, are -scattered north and south of the road. The heart of the region is Ugogo, -the most populous and the best cultivated country, divided into a number -of small and carefully cultivated clearings by tracts of dense bush and -timberless woods, a wall of verdure during the rains, and in the hot -season a system of thorns and broomwork which serves merely to impede a -free circulation of the air. These seams of waste land appear strange in -a country populated of old; the Arabs, however, declare that the land is -more thinly inhabited than it used to be. Mgunda Mk’hali, the western -division, is a thin forest and a heap of brakey jungle. The few hills -are thickly clothed with vegetation, probably because they retain more -moisture than the plains. - -The climate of Ugogo is markedly arid. During the transit of the -Expedition in September and October, the best water-colours faded and -hardened in their pans; India-rubber, especially the prepared article in -squares, became viscid, like half-dried birdlime; “Macintosh” was -sticking plaister, and the best vulcanized elastic-bands tore like brown -paper. During almost the whole year a violent east-wind sweeps from the -mountains. There are great changes in the temperature, whilst the -weather apparently remains the same, and alternate currents of hot and -cold air were observed. In the long summer the climate much resembles -that of Sindh; there are the same fiery suns playing upon the naked -surface with a painful dazzle, cool crisp nights, and clouds of dust. -The succulent vegetation is shrivelled up and carbonised by heat, and -the crackling covering of clayey earth and thin sand, whose particles -are unbound by dew or rain, rises in lofty whirling columns like -water-spouts when the north wind from the Wahumba Hills meets the gusts -of Usagara, which are soon heated to a furnace-breath by the glowing -surface. These “p’hepo” or “devils” scour the plain with the rapidity of -horsemen, and, charged with coarse grain and small pebbles, strike with -the violence of heavy hail. The siccity and repercussion of heat produce -an atmosphere of peculiar brilliancy in Ugogo: the milky haze of the -coast-climate is here unknown. The sowing season, at which time also -trees begin to bud and birds to breed, is about the period of the sun’s -greatest southern declination, and the diminution of temperature -displays in these regions the effects of the tepid winds and the warm -vernal showers of the European continent. There is no Vuli, and thus the -climate is unrefreshed by the copious tropical rains. About the middle -of November the country is visited by a few preliminary showers, -accompanied by a violent tramontana, and the vital principle which -appears extinct starts once more into sudden and excessive activity. -Towards the end of December the Masika, or rainy season, commences with -the wind shifting from the east to the north and north-east, blowing -steadily from the high grounds eastward and westward of the Nyanza Lake, -which have been saturated by heavy falls beginning in September. The -“winter” seldom exceeds the third month, and the downfall is desultory -and uncertain, causing frequent droughts and famine. For this reason the -land is much inferior in fertility to the other regions, and the cotton -and tobacco, which flourish from the coast to the Tanganyika Lake, are -deficient in Ugogo, whilst rice is supplanted by the rugged sorghum and -maize. - -Arab and other travellers unaccustomed to the country at first suffer -from the climate, which must not, however, be condemned. They complain -of the tourbillons, the swarms of flies, and the violent changes from -burning heat to piercing cold, which is always experienced in that -region when the thermometer sinks below 60°-55° F. Their thin tents, -pitched under a ragged calabash, cannot mitigate the ardour of an -unclouded sun; the salt-bitter water, whose nitrous and saline deposits -sometimes tarnish a silver ring like the fumes of sulphur, affects their -health; whilst the appetite, stimulated by a purer atmosphere and the -coolness of the night air, is kept within due bounds only by deficiency -in the means of satisfying it. Those who have seen Africa further west, -are profuse in their praises of the climate on their return-march from -the interior. The mukunguru, or seasoning fever, however, rarely fails -to attack strangers. It is, like that of the second region, a violent -bilious attack, whose consequences are sleeplessness, debility, and -severe headaches: the hot fit compared with the algid stage is unusually -long and rigorous. In some districts the parexia is rarely followed by -the relieving perspiration; and when natural diaphoresis appears, it by -no means denotes the termination of the paroxysm. Other diseases are -rare, and the terrible ulcerations of K’hutu and Eastern Usagara are -almost unknown in Ugogo. There is little doubt that the land, if it -afforded good shelter, purified water, and regular diet, would be -eminently wholesome. - -In the uninviting landscape a tufty, straggling grass, like living hay, -often raised on little mounds, with bald places between, thinly strewed -with bits of quartz and sandstone, replaces the tall luxuriant herbage -of the maritime plain, and the arboraceous and frutescent produce of the -mountains. The dryness of the climate, and the poverty of the soil, are -displayed in the larger vegetation. The only tree of considerable growth -is the calabash, and it is scattered over the country widely apart. A -variety of frankincense overspreads the ground; the bark is a deep -burnished bronze, whitened above with an incrustation, probably nitrous, -that resembles hoar-frost; and the long woody twigs are bleached by the -falling off of the outer integuments. The mukl or bdellium tree rises -like a dwarf calabash from a low copse. The Arabs declare this produce -of Ugogo (_Balsamodendron Africanum?_), to be of good quality. Rubbed -upon a stone and mixed with water it is applied with a pledget of cotton -to sluggish and purulent sores; and women use it for fumigation. The -Africans ignore its qualities, and the Baloch, though well acquainted -with the bdellium, gugal, or guggur, in their own country, did not -observe it in Ugogo. The succulent plants, cactus, aloe, and euphorbia, -will not burn; the air within them expands with heat, and the juices -gushing out extinguish the flame. Amongst various salsolæ, or saltworts, -the shrub called by the Arabs arak, the Capparis Sodata of Sindh and -Arabia, with its currant-like bunches of fruit, is conspicuous for its -evergreen verdure; the ragged and stunted mtungulu rains its apples upon -the ground; and the mbembu, in places sheltered from the sun, bears a -kind of medlar which is eagerly sought by the hungry traveller. The -euphorbiæ here rise to the height of 35 or 40 feet, and the hard woody -stem throws out a mass of naked arms, in the shape of a huge cap, -impervious to the midday sun. - -Wild animals abound through these jungles, and the spoor lasts long upon -the crisp gravelly soil. In some districts they visit by night the -raised clay water-troughs of the cultivators. The elephant prefers the -thick jungle, where he can wallow in the pools and feed delicately upon -succulent roots and fruits, bark, and leaves. The rhinoceros loves the -dark clumps of trees, which guard him from the noonday sun, and whence -he can sally out all unexpected upon the assailant. The mbogo, or Bos -Caffer, driven from his favourite spots, low grassy plains bordering on -streams, wanders, like the giraffe, through the thinner forests. As in -Unyamwezi, the roar of the lion strikes the ear by night, and the cry of -the ostrich by day. The lion upon this line of Eastern Africa is often -heard, but rarely seen; on only two occasions its footprints appeared -upon the road. The king of beasts, according to the Arabs, is of -moderate stature: it seldom attains its maximum of strength, stature, -and courage, except in plain countries where game abounds, as in the -lands north of the Cape, or in hills and mountains, where cattle can be -lifted at discretion, as in Northern Africa. In Unyamwezi its spoils, -which are yellow, like those of the Arab lion, with a long mane, said to -hang over the eyes, and with a whitish tinge under the jaws, become the -property of the Sultan. The animal is more common in the high lands of -Karagwah than in the low countries; it has, however, attacked the mbogo, -or wild bull, and has destroyed cattle within sight of the Arabs at -Kazeh in Unyanyembe. The lion is rarely a man-eater; this peculiarity, -according to some writers, being confined to old beasts, whose worn -teeth are unfit for fight. - -The “polygamous bird” was first observed on the Ugogo plateau; it -extends through Unyamwezi and Usukuma to Ujiji. The eggs are sold, -sometimes fresh, but more generally stale. Emptied and dried, they form -the principal circulating-medium between the Arab merchants and the -coffee-growing races near the Nyanza Lake, who cut them up and grind -them into ornamental disks and crescents. The young birds are caught, -but are rarely tamed. In Usukuma the bright and glossy feathers of the -old male are much esteemed for adorning the hair; yet, curious to say, -the bird is seldom hunted. Moreover, these East Africans have never -attempted to export the feathers, which, when white and uninjured, are -sold, even by the Somal, for 8 dollars per lb. The birds are at once -wild and stupid, timid and headstrong: their lengthened strides and -backward glances announce terror at the sight of man, and it is -impossible to stalk them in the open grounds, which they prefer. The -leopard and the cynhyæna, the koodoo and the different species of -antelope, are more frequently killed in these deserts than in any other -part of the line. Hog of reddish colour, and hares with rufous fur, are -sometimes started by caravans. The hyrax of the Somali country basks -upon the rocks and boulders, and the carapace of a small land-turtle, -called khasa, fastened to a branch, serves as a road-sign. The k’hwalu, -a small green parrot, with yellow shoulders, the upupa or hoopoe, a -great variety of fly-catchers, larks with jet-black heads and yellow -bodies, small bustards, hornbills, nightjars, muscicapæ, green pigeons, -sparrow-hawks, and small doves, are seen in every jungle. Near the -settlements the white-necked raven and the common chíl of India (Falco -cheela), attest the presence of man, as the monkey does the proximity of -water. The nest of the loxia swings to and fro in the fierce simoom; the -black Bataleur eagle of Somaliland, a splendid bird, towering shily in -the air, with his light under-plume gleaming like a silver plate, and -large vultures (condors?) flocking from afar, denote the position of a -dead or dying animal. - -Until late years the Wagogo, being more numerous than they are now, -deterred travellers from traversing their country: in those early days -the road to Unyamwezi, running along the left or northern bank of the -Rwaha, through the Warori tribe, struck off near Usanga and Usenga. It -is related, when the first caravan, led by Jumah Mfumbi, the late Diwan -of Saadani, entered Ugogo, that the people, penetrated with admiration -of his corpulence, after many experiments to find out whether it was -real or not, determined that he was and must be the Deity. Moreover, -after coming to this satisfactory conclusion, they resolved that, being -the Deity, he could improve their country by heavy rains; and when he -protested against both these resolutions, they proposed to put him to -death. A succession of opportune showers, however, released him. By -degrees the ever-increasing insolence and violence of the Warori drove -travellers to this northern line, and the Wagogo learned to see -strangers without displaying this Lybian mania for sacrificing them. - -Three main roads, leading from Western Usagara westward, cross the -Desert of Marenga Mk’hali. The most northern is called Yá Nyiká--of the -wilderness--a misnomer, if the assertion of the guides be correct that -it is well watered, and peopled by the subjects of eight sultans. The -central line, described in the preceding pages, is called, from its -middle station, Marenga Mk’hali: it is invariably preferred when water -is scarce. The southern road is termed Nyá Ngáhá, a continuation of the -Kiringwana route, previously alluded to: it has provisions, but the -people cause much trouble. - -The superiority of climate, and probably the absence of that luxuriant -vegetation which distinguishes the eastern region, have proved -favourable to the physical development of the races living in and about -Ugogo. The Wagogo, and their northern neighbours the Wahumba, are at -once distinguishable from the wretched population of the alluvial -valleys, and of the mountains of Usagara; though living in lower -altitudes, they are a fairer race--and therefore show better blood--than -the Wanyamwezi. These two tribes, whose distinctness is established by -difference of dialect, will be described in order. - -The Wagogo extend from the landward base of Usagara in direct distance -to Mdáburu a five days’ march: on the north they are bounded by the -Watáturu, on the south by the Wabena tribes; the breadth of their -country is computed at about eight stages. In the north, however, they -are mingled with the Wahumba, in the south-east with the Wahehe, and in -the south with the Warori. - -The Wagogo display the variety of complexion usually seen amongst -slave-purchasing races: many of them are fair as Abyssinians; some are -black as negroes. In the eastern and northern settlements they are a -fine, stout, and light-complexioned race. Their main peculiarity is the -smallness of the cranium compared with the broad circumference of the -face at and below the zygomata: seen from behind the appearance is that -of a small half-bowl fitted upon one of considerably larger bias; and -this, with the widely-extended ears, gives a remarkable expression to -the face. Nowhere in Eastern Africa is the lobe so distended. Pieces of -cane an inch or two in length, and nearly double the girth of a man’s -finger, are so disposed that they appear like handles to the owner’s -head. The distinctive mark of the tribe is the absence of the two lower -incisors; but they are more generally recognised by the unnatural -enlargement of their ears--in Eastern Africa the “aures perforatæ” are -the signs, not of slavery, but of freedom. There is no regular tattoo, -though some of the women have two parallel lines running from below the -bosom down the abdomen, and the men often extract only a single lower -incisor. The hair is sometimes shaved clean, at others grown in -mop-shape--more generally it is dressed in a mass of tresses, as amongst -the Egyptians, and the skin, as well as the large bunch of corkscrews, -freely stained with ochre and micaceous earths, drips with ghee, the -pride of rank and beauty. The Wagogo are not an uncomely race: some of -the younger women might even lay claim to prettiness. The upper part of -the face is often fine, but the lips are ever thick, and the mouth -coarse; similarly the body is well formed to the haunches, but the lean -calf is placed peculiarly high up the leg. The expression of the -countenance, even in the women, is wild and angry; and the round eyes -are often reddened and bleared by drink. The voice is strong, strident, -and commanding. - -Their superiority of clothing gives the Wagogo, when compared with the -Wasagara or the Wanyamwezi, an aspect of civilisation; a skin garment is -here as rare as a cotton farther west. Even the children are generally -clad. The attire of the men is usually some Arab check or dyed Indian -cotton: many also wear sandals of single hide. Married women are clothed -in “cloths with names,” when wealthy, and in domestics when poor. The -dress of the maidens under puberty is the languti of Hindostan, a kind -of T-bandage, with the front ends depending to the knees; it is -supported by a single or double string of the large blue glass-beads -called Sungomaji. A piece of coarse cotton cloth two yards long, and a -few inches broad, is fastened to the girdle behind, and passing under -the fork, is drawn tightly through the waistbelt in front; from the zone -the lappet hangs mid-down to the shins, and when the wearer is in rapid -motion it has a most peculiar appearance. The ornaments of both sexes -are kitindi, and bracelets and anklets of thick iron and brass-wires, -necklaces of brass chains, disks and armlets of fine ivory, the -principal source of their wealth, and bands of hide-strip with long -hair, bound round the wrists, above the elbows, and below the knees: -they value only the highest priced beads, coral and pink porcelains. As -usual the males appear armed. Some import from Unyamwezi and the -westward regions the long double-edged knife called sime, a “serviceable -dudgeon” used in combat or in peaceful avocations, like the -snick-an-snee of the ancient Dutch. Shields are unknown. The bow is -long: the handle and the horns are often adorned with plates of tin and -zinc, and the string is whipped round the extremities for strength. The -spear resembles that used by the Wanyamwezi in the elephant-hunt: it is -about four feet long, and the head is connected with a stout wooden -handle by an iron neck measuring half the length of the weapon. In -eastern Ugogo, where the Masai are near, the Wagogo have adopted their -huge shovel-headed spears and daggers, like those of the Somal. It is -the fashion for men to appear in public with the peculiar bill-hook used -in Usagara; and in the fields the women work with the large hoe of -Unyamwezi. - -The villages of the Wagogo are square Tembe, low and mean-looking for -want of timber. The outer walls are thin poles, planted in the ground -and puddled with mud. The huts, partitioned off like ships’ bunks, are -exceedingly dirty, being shared by the domestic animals, dogs, and -goats. They are scantily furnished with a small stool, a cot of cow’s -hide stretched to a small framework, a mortar for grain, and sundry -gourds and bark corn-bins. About sunset all the population retires, and -the doors are carefully barricaded for fear of the plundering Wahumba. -At night it is dangerous to approach the villages. - -The language of Ugogo is harsher than the dialects spoken by their -eastern and western neighbours. In the eastern parts the people -understand the Masai tongue. Many can converse fluently in the -Kisawahili, or coast-tongue. The people, however, despise all strangers -except the Warori and the Wahumba, and distinguish the Wanyamwezi by the -name of Wakonongo, which they also apply to travellers in general. -Within the memory of man one Kafuke, of Unyamwezi, a great merchant, and -a Mtongi or caravan leader, when traversing Ugogo with some thousands of -followers, became involved in a quarrel about paying for water. After -fifteen days of skirmishing, the leader was slain and the party was -dispersed. The effect on both tribes has lasted to the present day. -After the death of Kafuke no rain fell for some years--a phenomenon -attributed by the Wagogo to his powers of magic; and the land was almost -depopulated. The Wanyamwezi, on the other hand, have never from that -time crossed the country without fear and trembling. In the many wars -between the two tribes the Wagogo have generally proved themselves the -better men. This superiority has induced a brawling and bullying manner. -They call themselves Wáná Wádege, or sons of birds--that is to say, -semper parati. The Wanyamwezi studiously avoid offending them; and the -porters will obey the command of a boy rather than risk an encounter. -“He is a Mgogo,” said before the Bobadil’s face, makes him feel himself -forty times a man; yet he will fly in terror before one of the Warori or -the Wahumba. - -The strength of the Wagogo lies in their comparative numbers. As the -people seldom travel to the coast, their scattered villages are full of -fighting men. Moreover, Uchawi or black magic here numbers few -believers, consequently those drones of the social hive, the Waganga, or -medicine-men, are not numerous. The Wagogo seldom sell their children -and relations, yet there is no order against the practice. They barter -for slaves their salt and ivory, the principal produce of the country. -No caravan ever passes through the country without investing capital in -the salt-bitter substance which is gathered in flakes efflorescing; from -the dried mud upon the surface of the Mbuga, or swampy hollows; the best -and the cheapest is found in the district of Kanyenye. It is washed to -clear it of dirt, boiled till it crystallises, spread upon clean and -smoothed ground, and moulded with the hands into rude cones about half a -foot in length, which are bought at the rate of 7-10 for a Shukkah, and -are sold at a high premium after a few days’ march. Ugogo supplies -western Usagara and the eastern regions of Unyamwezi with this article. -It is, however, far inferior to the produce of the Rusugi pits, in -Uvinza, which, on account of its “sweetness,” finds its way throughout -the centre of Africa. Elephants are numerous in the country: every -forest is filled with deep traps, and during droughthy seasons many are -found dead in the jungle. The country is divided into districts; the -tusks become the property of the Sultan within whose boundaries the -animal falls, and the meat is divided amongst his subjects. Ivory is -given in barter for slaves: this practice assures to caravans a hold -upon the people, who, having an active commerce with the coast, cannot -afford to be shut out from it. The Wagogo are so greedy of serviles that -every gang leaves among them some of its live stock--the principal want -of the listless and indolent cultivator. The wild captives bought in the -interior, wayworn and fond of change, are persuaded by a word to desert; -they take the first opportunity of slipping away from their masters, -generally stealing a weapon and a little cloth or rations for immediate -use. Their new masters send them off the road lest they should be -recognised and claimed: after a time a large hoe is placed in their -hands, and the fools feel, when too late, that they have exchanged an -easy for a hard life. The Wagogo sell their fellow tribe-men only when -convicted of magic; though sometimes parents, when in distress, part -with their children. The same is the case amongst their northern -neighbours, the Wamasai, the Wahumba, and the Wakwafi, who, however, are -rarely in the market, and who, when there, though remarkable for -strength and intelligence, are little prized, in consequence of their -obstinate and untameable characters;--many of them would rather die -under the stick than level themselves with women by using a hoe. - -The Wagogo are celebrated as thieves who will, like the Wahehe, rob even -during the day. They are importunate beggars, who specify their long -list of wants without stint or shame; their principal demand is tobacco, -which does not grow in the land; and they resemble the Somal, who never -sight a stranger without stretching out the hand for “Bori.” The men are -idle and debauched, spending their days in unbroken crapulence and -drunkenness, whilst the girls and women hoe the fields, and the boys -tend the flocks and herds. They mix honey with their pombe, or beer, and -each man provides entertainment for his neighbours in turn. After midday -it would be difficult throughout the country to find a chief without the -thick voice, fiery eyes, and moidered manners, which prove that he is -either drinking or drunk. - -The Arabs declaim against the Wagogo as a “curst,” ill-conditioned and -boisterous, a violent and extortionate race. They have certainly no idea -of manners: they flock into a stranger’s tent, squat before him, staring -till their curiosity is satisfied, and unmercifully quizzing his -peculiarities. Upon the road a mob of both sexes will press and follow a -caravan for miles. The women, carrying their babes in leopard-skins -bound behind the back, and with unveiled bosoms, stand or run, fiercely -shouting with the excitement of delight, and the girls laugh and deride -the stranger as impudently as boys would in more modest lands. Yet, as -has been said, this curiosity argues to a certain extent improvability; -the most degraded tribes are too apathetic to be roused by strange -sights. Moreover, the Wagogo are not deficient in rude hospitality. A -stranger is always greeted with the “Yambo” salutation. He is not driven -from their doors, as amongst the Wazaramo and Wasagara; and he is -readily taken into brotherhood. The host places the stool for his -guests, seating himself on the ground: he prepares a meal of milk and -porridge, and on parting presents, if he can afford it, a goat or a cow. -The African “Fundi” or “Fattori” of caravans are rarely sober in Ugogo. -The women are well disposed towards strangers of fair complexion, -apparently with the permission of their husbands. According to the -Arabs, the husband of the daughter is also _de jure_ the lover of her -mother. - -The Sultan amongst the Wagogo is called Mtemi, a high title. He -exercises great authority, and is held in such esteem by his people, -that a stranger daring to possess the same name would be liable to -chastisement. The ministers, who are generally brothers or -blood-relations, are known as Wázágíra (in the singular Mzágírá), and -the councillors, who are the elders and the honourables of the tribe, -take the Kinyamwezi title “Wányápárá.” - -The necessaries of life are dear in Ugogo. The people will rarely barter -their sheep, goats, and cows for plain white or blue cottons, and even -in exchange for milk they demand coral, pink, or blue glass beads. A -moderate sized caravan will expend from six to ten shukkah per diem. The -Wanyamwezi travelling-parties live by their old iron hoes, for which -grain is returned by the people, who hold the metal in request. - -The Wahumba, by some called Wahumpa, is one of the terrible pastoral -nations “beyond the rivers of Æthiopia.” To judge from their dialect -they are, like the Wakwafi, a tribe or a subtribe of the great Masai -race, who speak a language partly South-African and partly -Semitico-African, like that of the Somal. The habitat of the Wahumba -extends from the north of Usagara to the eastern shores of the Nyanza or -Ukerewe Lake; it has been remarked that a branch of the Mukondokwa River -rises in their mountains. The blue highlands occupied by this pastoral -race, clearly visible, on the right hand, to the traveller passing from -Ugogo westwards, show where the ancient route from Pangani-town used to -fall into the main trunk-road of Unyamwezi. Having but little ivory, -they are seldom visited by travellers: their country, however, was -explored some years ago by an Arab merchant, Hamid bin Salim, for the -purpose of buying asses. He set out from Tura, in eastern Unyamwezi, -and, traversing the country of the wild Watatúru, arrived on the eighth -day at the frontier district I´ramba, where there is a river which -separates the tribes. He was received with civility; but none have since -followed his example. - -The Wahumba are a fair and comely race, with the appearance of -mountaineers, long-legged, and lightly made. They have repeatedly -ravaged the lands of Usagara and Ugogo: in the latter country, near -Usek’he, there are several settlements of this people, who have -exchanged the hide-tent for the hut, and the skin for the cotton-cloth. -They stain their garments with ochreish earth, and their women are -distinguished by wearing Kitindi of full and half-size above and below -the elbows. The ear lobes are pierced and distended by both sexes, as -amongst the Wagogo. In their own land they are purely pastoral; they -grow no grain, despise vegetable food, and subsist entirely upon meat or -milk according to the season. Their habitations are hemispheres of -boughs lashed together and roofed with a cow’s hide; it is the primitive -dwelling-place, and the legs of the occupant protrude beyond the -shelter. Their arms, which are ever hung up close at hand, are -broad-headed spears of soft iron, long “Sine,” or double-edged daggers, -with ribbed wooden handles fastened to the blade by a strip of cow’s -tail shrunk on, and “Rungu,” or wooden knob-kerries, with double bulges -that weight the weapon as it whirls through the air. They ignore and -apparently despise the bow and arrows, but in battle they carry the -Pavoise, or large hide-shield, affected by the Kafirs of the Cape. The -Arabs, when in force, do not fear their attacks. - -The Wahumba, like their congeners the Wakwafi, bandage the infant’s leg -from ankle to knee, and the ligature is not removed till the child can -stand upright. Its object is to prevent the development of the calf, -which, according to their physiology, diminishes the speed and endurance -of the runner. The specimens of Wahumba seen in different parts of Ugogo -showed the soleus and gastrocnemeius muscles remarkably shrunken, and -the projection of the leg rising close below the knee. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN UNYAMWEZI.] - -[Illustration: Ladies’ Smoking Party.] - - - - -CHAP. X. - -WE ENTER UNYAMWEZI, THE FAR-FAMED LAND OF THE MOON. - - -The district of Tura, though now held, like Jiwe la Mkoa and Mgongo -T’hembo, by Wakimbu, is considered the eastern frontier of Unyamwezi -proper, which claims superiority over the minor neighbouring tribes. -Some, however, extend the “land of the moon” eastward as far as Jiwe la -Mkoa, and the porters when entering the “Fiery Field,” declare that they -are setting foot upon their own ground. The word “Tura,” pronounced by -the Wanyamwezi “Tula” or “Itula,” means “put down!” (scil. your pack): -as the traveller, whether from the east or from the west, will -inevitably be delayed for some days at this border settlement. Tula is -situated in S. lat. 5° 2′ and E. long. 33° 57′, and the country rises -4,000 feet above sea level. After the gloomy and monotonous brown -jungles and thorn forests of Mgunda Mk’hali, whose sinuous line of thick -jungle still girds the northern horizon, the fair champaign, bounded on -either hand by low rolling and rounded hills of primary formation, with -a succession of villages and many a field of holcus and sesamum, maize, -millet, and other cereals, of manioc and gourds, water melons and -various pulses, delights the sight, and appears to the African traveller -a Land of Promise. - -The pertinacious Kidogo pressed me to advance, declaring the Wakimbu of -Tura to be a dangerous race: they appeared however a timid and ignoble -people, dripping with castor and sesamum oil, and scantily attired in -shreds of unclean cotton or greasy goat-skins. At Tura the last of the -thirty asses bought at Zanzibar paid the debt of nature, leaving us, -besides the one belonging to the Jemadar, but three African animals -purchased on the road. A few extra porters were therefore engaged. Our -people, after the discomforts of the bivouac, found the unsavoury -village a perfect paradise; they began somewhat prematurely to beg for -Bakhshish, and Muinyi Wazira requested dismissal on the plea that a -slave sent by him on a trading-expedition into the interior had, by -dying, endangered the safety of the venture. On the morning of the 30th -October Kidogo led us over the plain through cultivation and villages to -another large settlement on the western outskirt of the Tura district. -As I disappointed him in his hopes of a Tirikeza, he passed the night in -another Tembe, which was occupied by the caravans of Coast-Arabs and -their slave girls, to one of whom, said Scan. Mag., he had lost his -heart, and he punished me by halting through the next day. As we neared -the end of the journey the sons of Ramji became more restive under their -light loads; their dignity was hurt by shouldering a pack, and day after -day, till I felt weary of life, they left their burdens upon the ground. -However, on the 1st November, they so far recovered temper that the -caravan was able to cross the thin jungle, based upon a glaring white -soil, which divides the Tura from the Rubuga District. After a march of -6 hrs. and 30′, we halted on the banks of the Kwale or “Partridge” -Nullah, where, though late in the season, we found several long pools of -water. The porters collected edible bivalves and caught a quantity of -mud-fish by the “rough and ready” African process, a waist-cloth tied to -a pair of sticks, and used by two men as a drag-net. At Rubuga, which we -reached in 5 hrs. and 45′, marching over a plain of black earth, thinly -garnished with grass and thorn-trees, and then through clearings -overgrown with stubble, I was visited by an Arab merchant, Abdullah bin -Jumah, who, with a flying-caravan, had left Konduchi on the coast 2 -months and 20 days after our departure. According to him his caravan had -lately marched thirty miles in the twenty-four hours: it was the -greatest distance accomplished in these regions; but the Arabs are fond -of exaggeration, the party was small and composed of lightly laden men, -and moreover it required two days’ rest after so unusual an exertion. -This merchant unwittingly explained a something which had puzzled me; -whenever an advance beyond Unyanyembe had been made the theme of -conversation, Said bin Salim’s countenance fell, and he dropped dark -hints touching patience and the power of Allah to make things easy. -Abdullah rendered the expression intelligible by asking me if I -considered the caravan strong enough to dare the dangers of the -road--which he grossly exaggerated--between Unyamwezi-Land and Ujiji. I -replied that I did, and that even if I did not, such bugbears should not -cause delay; Abdullah smiled, but was too polite to tell me that he did -not believe me. - -A “doux marcher” of 2 hrs. 40′ on the 3rd November, led us to the -western limit of the Rubuga District. During the usual morning-halt -under a clump of shady milk-bush, I was addressed by Maura or Maula, the -Sultan of a large neighbouring village of Wanyamwezi: being a civilised -man and a coast-traveller, he could not allow the caravan of the -“Wazungu” to pass his quarters without presenting to him a bullock, and -extracting from him a little cloth. Like most chiefs in the “Land of the -Moon,” he was a large-limbed, gaunt, angular, tall old man, with a black -oily skin, seamed with wrinkles; and long wiry pigtails thickened with -grease, melted butter, and castor-oil, depending from the sides of his -purbald head. His dress--an old Barsati round the loins, and a grimy -Subai loosely thrown over the shoulders--was redolent of boiled -frankincense; his ankles were concealed by a foot depth of brass and -copper “Sambo,” thin wires twisted round a little bundle of elephant’s, -buffalo’s, or zebra’s hair; and he wore single-soled sandals, decorated -with four disks of white shell, about the size of a crown-piece, bound -to the thongs that passed between the toes and girt the heel. He -recognised the Baloch, greeted all kindly, led the way to his village, -ordered lodgings to be cleared and cleaned, caused the cartels or -bedsteads,--the first seen by us for many months,--to be vacated, and -left us to look for a bullock. At the village door I had remarked a rude -attempt at fashioning a block of wood into what was palpably intended -for a form human and feminine; the Moslems of course pronounced it to be -an idol, but the people declared that they paid no respect to it. They -said the same concerning the crosses and the serpent-like ornaments of -white ashes--in this land lime is unknown--with which the brown walls of -their houses were decorated. - -We made bonne chère at Rubuga, which is celebrated for its milk and -meat, ghee and honey. On the wayside were numerous hives, the Mazinga or -“cannons,” before described; here however they were raised out of the -reach of the ants, white and black, upon a pair of short forked -supports, instead of being suspended from the branches of a tall tree. -My companion brought from a neighbouring swamp a fine Egyptian, or ruddy -goose, and a brace of crane-like water-fowl: these the Wanyamwezi -porters, expecting beef, disdained, because rejected by the Baloch, yet -at Inenge they had picked the carcase of a way-spent ass. Presently we -were presented by the Sultan with one of the fattest of his fine bulls; -it was indeed - - “A grazier’s without and a butcher’s within;” - -withal, so violent and unmanageable that no man could approach, -much less secure it: it rushed about the village like a wild buffalo, -scattering the people, who all fled except the Sultan, till it was -stopped dead in a most determined charge, with a couple of -rifle-bullets, by my companion. In return, Maula received a crimson -cloth and two domestics, after which he begged for everything, including -percussion caps, for which he had no gun. He appeared most anxious to -detain the caravan, and in the evening his carefully concealed reasons -leaked out--he wanted me to cure his son of fever, and to “put the -colophon” upon a neighbouring hostile chief. At 8 P.M., I was aroused by -my gun-carrier, Mabruki, who handed to me my Ferrara, and by the Baloch -Riza, who reported that the palisade was surrounded by a host of raging -blacks. I went out into the village, where the guard was running about -in a state of excitement which robbed them of their wits, and I saw a -long dark line of men sitting silently and peaceably, though armed for -fight, outside the strong stockade. Having caused our cloth to be safely -housed, and given orders to be awakened if work began, I returned to the -hut, determined to take leave of Sultan Maura and his quarrels on the -next day. - -The porters were all gorged with beef, and three were “stale-drunk” with -the consequences of pombe; yet so anxious were they rendered by the -gathering clouds, and the spitting showers to reach their homes before -the setting in of the “sowing rains,” that my task was now rather to -restrain than to stimulate their ardour: the moon was resplendent, and -had I wished it, they would have set out at midnight. On the 4th -November we passed through another jungle-patch, to a village in the -fertile slopes of Ukona, where the Cannabis and the Datura, with its -large fetid flowers, disputed the ground with brinjalls and -castor-plants, holcus and panicum: tobacco grew luxuriantly, and -cotton-plots, carefully hedged round against the cattle, afforded -material for the loom, which now appeared in every village. - -On the next day, we passed out of the fertile slopes of Ukona, and -traversed an open wavy country, streaked with a thin forest of Mimosa, -the Mtogwe or wood-apple, and a large quadrangular cactus. Beyond this -point, a tract of swampy low level led to the third district of Eastern -Unyamwezi, called Kigwa, or Mkigwa. We found quarters in a Tembe which -was half-burned and partly pulled down, to be re-erected. - -The 6th November saw us betimes in the ill-omened Forest, that divided -us from the Unyanyembe district; it is a thin growth of gum-trees, -mimosas, and bauhinias, with tiers, earth-waves, and long rolling lines -of tawny-yellow hill--mantled with umbrella-shaped trees, and sometimes -capped with blocks and boulders--extending to a considerable distance on -both sides. The Sultan of Kigwa, one Manwa, has taken an active part in -the many robberies and murders which have rendered this forest a place -of terror, and the Arabs have hitherto confined themselves to threats, -though a single merchant complains that his slave-caravans have at -different times lost fifty loads of cloth. Manwa is aided and counselled -by Mansur, a Coast-Arab, who, horse-whipped out of the society of his -countrymen at Kazeh, for drunken and disorderly conduct, has become a -notorious traitor. Here also Msimbira, a Sultan of the Wasukuma, or -Northern Wanyamwezi, who has an old and burning hatred against the -Arabs, sends his plundering parties. On the 6th November the Baloch set -out at 1 A.M., we followed at 2.15 A.M.: they had been prevented from -obtaining beads on false pretences, consequently they showed temper, and -determined to deny their escort. Their beards were now in my hand, they -could neither desert nor refuse to proceed, but they desired to do me a -harm, and they did it. During the transit of the forest, an old porter -having imprudently lagged behind, was clubbed and cruelly bruised by -three black Mohawks, who relieved him of his load, a leathern -portmanteau, containing clothes, umbrellas, books, ink, journals, and -botanical collections. I afterwards heard that the highwaymen had -divided their spoils in the forest, and that separating into two -parties, they had taken the route homewards. On the way, however, they -were seized by a plundering expedition sent by Kitambi, the Sultan of -Uyuwwi, a district half a day’s march N.E. from Kazeh. The delict was -flagrant; the head of one robber at once decorated the main entrance of -Kitambi’s village, but the other two escaped Jeddart-justice with their -share of the plunder to his mortal enemy Msimbira. A present of a -scarlet waistcoat and four domestics recovered our clothes from Kitambi; -but Msimbira, threatening all the penalties of sorcery, abused, -plundered, and expelled Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, an old Arab -merchant, sent to him from Unyanyembe for the purpose of recovering the -books, journals, and collections. The perpetual risk of loss discourages -the traveller in these lands; he never knows at what moment papers which -have cost him months of toil may be scattered to the winds. As regards -collections, future explorers are advised to abandon the hope of making -them on the march upwards, reserving their labour for the more leisurely -return. The precautions with which I prefaced our down-march may not be -useless as suggestions. My field and sketch-books were entrusted to an -Arab merchant, who preceded me to Zanzibar; they ran no other danger -except from the carelesness of the Consul who, unfortunately for me, -succeeded Lieut.-Col. Hamerton. My companion’s maps, papers, and -instruments, were committed to a heavy “petarah,” a deal-box with -pent-lid and hide-bound as a defence against rain, to be carried -“Mziga-ziga,” as the phrase is--suspended on a pole between the two -porters least likely to desert. I loaded one of the sons of Ramji with -an enamelled leathern bag, converted from a dressing-case into a -protection for writing and sketching materials; and a shooting-bag, hung -during the march over the shoulders of Nasiri, a Coast-Arab youth -engaged as ass-leader at Unyanyembe, contained my vocabularies, -ephemeris, and drawing-books. - -Considering the conduct of the escort, I congratulated myself upon -having passed through the Kigwa forest without other accident. Two or -three days after our arrival at Kazeh several loads of beads were -plundered from a caravan belonging to Abdullah bin Salih. Shortly -afterwards Msimbira sent a large foraging party with a view to cutting -off the road: they allowed themselves to be surprised during sleep by -Mpagamo’s men, who slew twenty-five of their number and dispersed the -rest. This accident, however, did not cure their propensity for pillage; -on our return-march, when halted at a village west of the Kigwa forest, -a body of slaves passed us in hot haste and sore tribulation: they had -that day been relieved by bandits of all their packs. - -Passing from the Kigwa forest and entering the rice-lands of the -Unyanyembe district we found quarters--a vile cow-house--in a large -dirty village called Hanga. The aspect of the land became prepossessing: -the route lay along a valley bisected by a little rivulet of sweet -water, whose course was marked by a vivid leek-green line; the slopes -were bright with golden stubble upon a surface of well-hoed field, while -to the north and south ran low and broken cones of granite blocks and -slabs, here naked, there clothed from base to brow with dwarf -parasol-shaped trees, and cactaceæ of gigantic size. - -From this foul village I was urged by Kidogo to conclude by a tirikeza -the last stage that separated the caravan from Kazeh in Unyanyembe, the -place which he and all around him had apparently fixed as the final -bourne of the exploration. But the firmament seemed on fire, the porters -were fagged, and we felt feverish, briefly, an afternoon’s march was not -judged advisable. To temper, however, the wind of refusal, I served out -to each of the sons of Ramji five rounds of powder for blowing away on -entering the Arab head-quarters. All of course had that private store -which the Arabs call “El Akibah”--the ending; it is generally stolen -from the master and concealed for emergencies with cunning care. They -had declared their horns to be empty, and said Kidogo, “Every pedlar -fires guns here--shall a great man creep into his Tembe without a soul -knowing it?” - -On the 7th November, 1857,--the 134th day from the date of our leaving -the coast--after marching at least 600 miles, we prepared to enter -Kazeh, the principal Bandari of Eastern Unyamwezi, and the capital -village of the Omani merchants. We left Hanga at dawn. The Baloch were -clothed in that one fine suit without which the Eastern man rarely -travels: after a few displays the dress will be repacked, and finally -disposed of in barter for slaves. About 8 A.M., we halted for stragglers -at a little village, and when the line of porters becoming compact began -to wriggle, snake-like, its long length over the plain, with floating -flags, booming horns, muskets ringing like saluting mortars, and an -uproar of voice which nearly drowned the other noises, we made a truly -splendid and majestic first appearance. The road was lined with people -who attempted to vie with us in volume and variety of sound: all had -donned their best attire, and with such luxury my eyes had been long -unfamiliar. Advancing I saw several Arabs standing by the wayside, they -gave the Moslem salutation and courteously accompanied me for some -distance. Amongst them were the principal merchants, Snay bin Amir, Said -bin Majid, a young and handsome Omani of noble tribe, Muhinna bin -Sulayman, who, despite elephantiasis, marched every year into Central -Africa, and Said bin Ali el Hinawi, whose short, spare, but well-knit -frame, pale face, small features, snowy beard, and bald head, surmounted -by a red fez, made him the type of an Arab old man. - -I had directed Said bin Salim to march the caravan to the Tembe kindly -placed at my disposal by Isá bin Hijji, and the Arabs met at Inenge. The -Kirangozi and the porters, however, led us on by mistake (?) to the -house of “Musa Mzuri”--handsome Moses--an Indian merchant settled at -Unyanyembe for whom I bore an introductory letter, graciously given by -H. H. the Sayyid Majid of Zanzibar. As Musa was then absent on a -trading-journey to Karagwah, his agent, Snay bin Amir, a Harisi Arab, -came forward to perform the guest-rites, and led me to the vacant house -of Abayd bin Sulayman who had lately returned to Zanzibar. - -After allowing me, as is the custom, a day to rest and to dismiss the -porters, who at once separated to their homes, all the Arab merchants, -then about a dozen, made the first ceremonious call, and to them was -officially submitted the circular addressed by the Prince of Zanzibar to -his subjects resident in the African interior. Contrary to the -predictions of others, nothing could be more encouraging than the -reception experienced from the Omani Arabs; striking, indeed, was the -contrast between the open-handed hospitality and the hearty good-will of -this truly noble race, and the niggardness of the savage and selfish -African--it was heart of flesh after heart of stone. A goat and a load -of the fine white rice grown in the country were the normal prelude to a -visit and to offers of service which proved something more than a mere -_vox et præterea nihil_. Whatever I alluded to, onions, plantains, -limes, vegetables, tamarind-cakes, coffee from Karagwah, and similar -articles, only to be found amongst the Arabs, were sent at once, and the -very name of payment would have been an insult. Snay bin Amir, -determining to surpass all others in generosity, sent two goats to us -and two bullocks to the Baloch and the sons of Ramji: sixteen years -before, he had begun life a confectioner at Maskat, and now he had risen -to be one of the wealthiest ivory and slave-dealers in Eastern Africa. -As his health forbade him to travel he had become a general agent at -Kazeh, where he had built a village containing his store-houses and his -depôts of cloth and beads, slaves and ivory. I have to acknowledge many -an obligation to him. Having received a “wakalat-namah,” or “power of -attorney” he enlisted porters for the caravan to Ujiji. He warehoused my -goods, he disposed of my extra stores, and, finally, he superintended my -preparations for the down-march. During two long halts at Kazeh he never -failed, except through sickness, to pass the evening with me, and from -his instructive and varied conversation was derived not a little of the -information contained in the following pages. He had travelled three -times between Unyamwezi and the coast, besides navigating the great Lake -Tanganyika and visiting the northern kingdoms of Karagwah and Uganda. He -first entered the country about fifteen years ago, when the line of -traffic ended at Usanga and Usenga, and he was as familiar with the -languages, the religion, the manners, and the ethnology of the African, -as with those of his natal Oman. He was a middle-aged man with somewhat -of the Quixotic appearance, high-featured, sharp and sunken-eyed, almost -beardless, light-coloured, tall, gaunt, and large-limbed. He had read -much, and, like an oriental, for improvement, not only for amusement: he -had a wonderful memory, fine perceptions and passing power of language. -Finally, he was the stuff of which friends are made; brave as all his -race, prudent withal, ready to perish for the “Pundonor,” and,--such is -not often the case in the East,--he was as honest as he was honourable. - -Before proceeding with the thread of my narrative, the reader is -requested to bear with the following few lines upon the subject of -Unyanyembe. - -Unyanyembe, the central and principal province of Unyamwezi, is, like -Zungomero in Khutu, the great Bandari or meeting-place of merchants, and -the point of departure for caravans which thence radiate into the -interior of Central Intertropical Africa. Here the Arab merchant from -Zanzibar meets his compatriot returning from the Tanganyika Lake and -from Uruwwa. Northwards well-travelled lines diverge to the Nyanza Lake, -and the powerful kingdoms of Karagwah, Uganda, and Unyoro; from the -south Urori and Ubena, Usanga and Usenga, send their ivory and slaves; -and from the south-west the Rukwa Water, K’hokoro, Ufipa, and Marungu -must barter their valuables for cottons, wires, and beads. The central -position and the comparative safety of Unyanyembe have made it the -head-quarters of the Omani or pure Arabs, who, in many cases, settle -here for years, remaining in charge of their depôts, whilst their -factors and slaves travel about the country and collect the items of -traffic. At Unyanyembe the merchants expect some delay. The porters, -whether hired upon the coast or at the Tanganyika Lake, here disperse, -and a fresh gang must be collected--no easy task when the sowing season -draws nigh. - -Unyanyembe, which rises about 3480 feet above sea-level, and lies 356 -miles in rectilinear distance from the eastern coast of Africa, -resembles in its physical features the lands about Tura. The plain or -basin of Ihárá, or Kwihárá, a word synonymous with the “Bondei” or -low-land of the coast, is bounded on the north and south by low, -rolling hills, which converge towards the west, where, with the -characteristically irregular lay of primitive formations, they are -crossed almost at right angles by the Mfuto chain. The position has been -imprudently chosen by the Arabs; the land suffers from alternate drought -and floods, which render the climate markedly malarious. The soil is -aluminous in the low levels--a fertile plain of brown earth, with a -subsoil of sand and sandstone, from eight to twelve feet below the -surface; the water is often impregnated with iron, and the higher -grounds are uninhabited tracts covered with bulky granite-boulders, -bushy trees, and thorny shrubs. - -Contrary to what might be expected this “Bandari-district” contains -villages and hamlets, but nothing that can properly be termed a town. -The Mtemi or Sultan Fundikira, the most powerful of the Wanyamwezi -chiefs, inhabits a Tembe, or square settlement, called “Ititenya,” on -the western slope of the southern hills. A little colony of Arab -merchants has four large houses at a neighbouring place, “Mawiti.” In -the centre of the plain lies “Kazeh,” another scattered collection of -six large hollow oblongs, with central courts, garden-plots, -store-rooms, and outhouses for the slaves. Around these nuclei cluster -native villages--masses of Wanyamwezi hovels, which bear the names of -their founders. - -This part of Unyanyembe was first colonised about 1852, when the Arabs -who had been settled nearly ten years at Kigandu of P’huge, a district -of Usukuma, one long day’s march north of Kazeh, were induced by -Mpagamo, to aid them against Msimbira, a rival chief, who defeated and -drove them from their former seats. The details of this event were -supplied by an actor in the scenes; they well illustrate the futility of -the people. The Arabs, after five or six days of skirmishing, were upon -the point of carrying the boma or palisade of Msimbira, their enemy, -when suddenly at night their slaves, tired of eating beef and raw -ground-nuts, secretly deserted to a man. The masters awaking in the -morning found themselves alone, and made up their minds for -annihilation. Fortunately for them, the enemy, suspecting an ambuscade, -remained behind their walls, and allowed the merchants to retire without -an attempt to cut them off. Their employer, Mpagamo, then professed -himself unable to defend them; when, deeming themselves insecure, they -abandoned his territory. Snay bin Amir and Musa Mzuri, the Indian, -settled at Kazeh, then a desert, built houses, sunk wells, and converted -it into a populous place. - -It is difficult to average the present number of Arab merchants at -Unyanyembe who, like the British in India, visit but do not colonise; -they rarely, however, exceed twenty-five in number; and during the -travelling season, or when a campaign is necessary, they are sometimes -reduced to three or four; they are too strong to yield without fighting, -and are not strong enough to fight with success. Whenever the people -have mustered courage to try a fall with the strangers, they have been -encouraged to try again. Hitherto the merchants have been on friendly -terms with Fundikira, the chief. Their position, however, though partly -held by force of prestige, is precarious. They are all Arabs from Oman, -with one solitary exception, Musa Mzuri, an Indian Kojah, who is perhaps -in these days the earliest explorer of Unyamwezi. In July, 1858, an Arab -merchant, Silim bin Masud, returning from Kazeh to his home at Msene, -with a slave-porter carrying a load of cloth, was, though well armed and -feared as a good shot, attacked at a water in a strip of jungle westward -of Mfuto, and speared in the back by five men, who were afterwards -proved to be subjects of the Sultan Kasanyare, a Mvinza. The Arabs -organised a small expedition to revenge the murder, marched out with 200 -or 300 slave-musketeers, devoured all the grain and poultry in the -country, and returned to their homes without striking a blow, because -each merchant-militant wished his fellows to guarantee his goods or his -life for the usual diyat, or blood-money, 800 dollars. This impunity of -crime will probably lead to other outrages. - -The Arabs live comfortably, and even splendidly, at Unyanyembe. The -houses, though single-storied, are large, substantial, and capable of -defence. Their gardens are extensive and well planted; they receive -regular supplies of merchandise, comforts, and luxuries from the coast; -they are surrounded by troops of concubines and slaves, whom they train -to divers crafts and callings: rich men have riding-asses from -Zanzibar, and even the poorest keep flocks and herds. At Unyanyembe, -as at Msene, and sometimes at Ujiji, there are itinerant fundi, or -slave-artisans--blacksmiths, tinkers, masons, carpenters, tailors, -potters, and rope-makers,--who come up from the coast with Arab -caravans. These men demand exorbitant wages. A broken matchlock can be -repaired, and even bullets cast; good cord is purchaseable; and for -tinning a set of seventeen pots and plates five shukkah merkani are -charged. A pair of Arab stirrups are made up for one shukkah besides the -material, and chains for animals at about double the price. Fetters and -padlocks, however, are usually imported by caravans. Pack-saddles are -brought from Zanzibar: in caravans a man may sometimes be found to make -them. There is, moreover, generally a pauper Arab who for cloth will -make up a ridge-tent; and as most civilised Orientals can use a needle, -professional tailors are little required. Provisions are cheap and -plentiful; the profits are large; and the Arab, when wealthy, is -disposed to be hospitable and convivial. Many of the more prosperous -merchants support their brethren who have been ruined by the chances and -accidents of trade. When a stranger appears amongst them, he receives -the “hishmat l’il gharíb,” or the guest-welcome, in the shape of a goat -and a load of white rice; he is provided with lodgings, and is -introduced by the host to the rest of the society at a general banquet. -The Arabs’ great deficiency is the want of some man to take the lead. -About fifteen years ago Abdullah bin Salim, a merchant from Zanzibar, -with his body of 200 armed slaves, kept the whole community in -subjection: since his death, in 1852, the society has suffered from all -the effects of disunion where union is most required. The Arab, however, -is even in Africa a Pantisocrat, and his familiarity with the inferior -races around him leads to the proverbial consequences. - -The houses of the Arabs are Moslem modifications of the African Tembe, -somewhat superior in strength and finish. The deep and shady -outside-verandah, supported by stout uprights, shelters a broad bench of -raised earthwork, where men sit to enjoy the morning cool and the -evening serenity, and where they pray, converse, and transact their -various avocations. A portcullis-like door, composed of two massive -planks, with chains thick as a ship’s cable--a precaution rendered -necessary by the presence of wild slaves--leads into the barzah, or -vestibule. The only furniture is a pair of clay benches extending along -the right and left sides, with pillow-shaped terminations of the same -material; over these, when visitors are expected, rush mats and rugs are -spread. From this barzah a passage, built at the angle proper to baffle -the stranger’s curiosity, leads into the interior, a hollow square or -oblong, with the several rooms opening upon a courtyard, which, when not -built round, is completely closed by a “liwan”--a fence of small -tree-trunks or reeds. The apartments have neither outward doors nor -windows: small bull’s-eyes admit the air, and act as loop-holes in case -of need. The principal room on the master’s side of the house has a -bench of clay, and leads into a dark closet where stores and merchandise -are placed. There are separate lodgings for the harem, and the domestic -slaves live in barracoons or in their own outhouses. This form of Tembe -is perhaps the dullest habitation ever invented by man. The exterior -view is carefully removed from sight, and the dull, dirty courtyard, -often swamped during the rains, is ever before the tenant’s eyes; the -darkness caused by want of windows painfully contrasts with the flood of -sunshine pouring in through the doors, and at night no number of candles -will light up its gloomy walls of grey or reddish mud. The breeze is -either excluded by careless frontage, or the high and chilling winds -pour in like torrents; the roof is never water-tight, and the walls and -rafters harbour hosts of scorpions and spiders, wasps and cockroaches. -The Arabs, however, will expend their time and trouble in building -rather than trust their goods in African huts, exposed to thieves and to -the frequent fires which result from barbarous carelessness: everywhere, -when a long halt is in prospect, they send their slaves for wood to the -jungle, and superintend the building of a spacious Tembe. They neglect, -however, an important precaution, a sleeping-room raised above the mean -level of malaria. - -Another drawback to the Arab’s happiness is the failure of his -constitution: a man who escapes illness for two successive months boasts -of the immunity; and, as in Egypt, no one enjoys robust health. The -older residents have learned to moderate their appetites. They eat but -twice a-day--after sunrise, and at noon--the midday meal concluded, they -confine themselves to chewing tobacco or the dried coffee of Karagwah. -They avoid strong meats, especially beef and game, which are considered -heating and bilious, remaining satisfied with light dishes, omelets and -pillaus, harísah, firni, and curded milk, and the less they eat the more -likely they are to escape fever. Harisáh, in Kisawahili “boko-boko,” is -the roast beef--the _plat de résistance_--of the Eastern and African -Arab. It is a kind of pudding made with finely shredded meat, boiled -with flour of wheat, rice, or holcus, to the consistence of a thick -paste, and eaten with honey or sugar. Firni, an Indian word, is -synonymous with the muhallibah of Egypt, a thin jelly of milk-and-water, -honey, rice-flour, and spices, which takes the place of our substantial -northern rice-pudding. The general health has been improved by the -importation from the coast of wheat, and a fine white rice, instead of -the red aborigen of the country, of various fruits, plantains, limes, -and papaws; and of vegetables, brinjalls, cucumbers, and tomatos, which -relieve the indigenous holcus and maize, manioc and sweet-potato, millet -and phaseoli, sesamum and ground-nuts. They declare to having derived -great benefit from the introduction of onions,--an antifebral, which -flourishes better in Central than in Maritime Africa. The onion, so -thriving in South Africa, rapidly degenerates upon the island of -Zanzibar into a kind of houseleek. In Unyamwezi it is of tolerable size -and flavour. It enters into a variety of dishes, the most nauseous being -probably the sugared onion-omelet. In consequence of general demand, -onions are expensive in the interior; an indigo-dyed shukkah will -purchase little more than a pound. When the bulbs fail, the leaves -chopped into thin circles and fried in clarified butter with salt, are -eaten as a relish with meat. They are also inserted into marak or soups, -to disguise the bitter and rancid taste of stale ghee. Onions may be -sown at all seasons except during the wet monsoon, when they are liable -to decay. The Washenzi have not yet borrowed this excellent and healthy -vegetable from the Arabs. Garlic has also been tried in Unyanyembe, but -with less success; moreover, it is considered too heating for daily use. -As might be expected, however, amongst a floating population with many -slaves, foreign fruits and vegetables are sometimes allowed to die out. -Thus some enterprising merchant introduced into Unyanyembe the date and -the mkungu, bidam, or almond-tree of the coast: the former, watered once -every third day, promised to bear fruit, when, in the absence of the -master, the Wanyamwezi cut up the young shoots into walking-sticks. -Sugar is imported: the water-wanting cane will not thrive in arid -Unyanyembe, and honey must be used as a succedaneum. Black pepper, -universally considered cooling by Orientals, is much eaten with -curry-stuffs and other highly-seasoned dishes, whereas the excellent -chillies and bird-pepper, which here grow wild, are shunned for their -heating properties. Butter and ghee are made by the wealthy; humbler -houses buy the article, which is plentiful and good, from the -Wanyamwezi. Water is the usual beverage. Some Arabs drink togwa, a sweet -preparation of holcus; and others, debauchees, indulge in the sour and -intoxicating pombe, or small-beer. - -The market at Unyanyembe varies greatly according to the quantity of the -rains. As usual in barbarous societies, a dry season, or a few -unexpected caravans, will raise the prices, even to trebling; and the -difference of value in grain before and after the harvest will be double -or half of what it is at par. The price of provisions in Unyamwezi has -increased inordinately since the Arabs have settled in the land. -Formerly a slave-boy could be purchased for five fundo, or fifty strings -of beads: the same article would now fetch three hundred. A fundo of -cheap white porcelain-beads would procure a milch cow; and a goat, or -ten hens its equivalent, was to be bought for one khete. In plentiful -years Unyanyembe is, however, still the cheapest country in East Africa, -and, as usual in cheap countries, it induces the merchant to spend more -than in the dearest. Paddy of good quality, when not in demand, sells at -twenty kayla (120lbs.) for one shukkah of American domestics; maize, at -twenty-five; and sorghum, here the staff of life, when in large stock, -at sixty. A fat bullock may be bought for four domestics, a cow costs -from six to twelve, a sheep or a goat from one to two. A hen, or its -equivalent, four or five eggs, is worth one khete of coral or pink -porcelain beads. One fundo of the same will purchase a large bunch of -plantains, with which máwá or plantain-wine, and siki or vinegar are -made; and the Wanyamwezi will supply about a pint of milk every morning -at the rate of one shukkah per mensem. A kind of mud-fish is caught by -the slaves in the frequent pools which, during the cold season, dot the -course of the Gombe Nullah, lying three miles north of Kazeh; and -return-caravans often bring with them stores of the small fry, called -Kashwá or Daga’a, from the Tanganyika Lake. - -From Unyanyembe twenty marches, which are seldom accomplished under -twenty-five days, conduct the traveller to Ujiji, upon the Tanganyika. -Of these the fifth station is Msene, the great Bandari of Western -Unyamwezi. It is usually reached in eight days; and the twelfth is the -Malagarazi River, the western limit of the fourth region. - -The traveller, by means of introductory letters to the Doyen of the Arab -merchants at Kazeh, can always recruit his stock of country -currency,--cloth, beads, and wire,--his requirements of powder and ball, -and his supply of spices, comforts, and drugs, without which travel in -these lands usually ends fatally. He will pay, it is true, about five -times their market-value at Zanzibar: sugar, for instance, sells at its -weight in ivory, or nearly one-third more than its weight in beads. But -though the prices are exorbitant they preserve the buyer from greater -evils, the expense of porterage, the risk of loss, and the trouble and -annoyance of personally superintending large stores in a land where -“vir” and “fur” are synonymous terms. - -And now comfortably housed within a stone-throw of my new friend Shaykh -Snay bin Amir, I bade adieu for a time to the march, the camp, and the -bivouac. Perhaps the reader may not be unwilling to hear certain details -concerning the “road and the inn” in Eastern Africa; he is familiar from -infancy with the Arab Kafilah and its host of litters and camels, -horses, mules, and asses, but the porter-journeys in Eastern Africa have -as yet escaped the penman’s pen. - -Throughout Eastern Africa made roads, the first test of progress in a -people, are unknown. The most frequented routes are foot-tracks like -goat-walks, one to two spans broad, trodden down during the travelling -season by man and beast, and during the rains the path in African -parlance “dies,” that is to say, it is overgrown with vegetation. In -open and desert places four or five lines often run parallel for short -distances. In jungly countries they are mere tunnels in thorns and under -branchy trees, which fatigue the porter by catching his load. Where -fields and villages abound they are closed with rough hedges, horizontal -tree-trunks, and even rude stockades, to prevent trespassing and -pilferage. Where the land is open, an allowance of one-fifth must be -made for winding: in closer countries this must be increased to -two-fifths or to one-half, and the traveller must exercise his judgment -in distributing the marches between these two extremes. In Uzaramo and -K’hutu the tracks run through tall grasses, which are laid by their own -weight after rains, and are burned down during the hot seasons: they -often skirt cultivated lands, which they are not allowed to enter, miry -swamps are spanned, rivers breast-deep, with muddy bottoms and steep -slippery banks, are forded, whilst deep holes, the work of rodents and -insects, render them perilous to ridden cattle. In Usagara the gradients -are surmounted either by beds of mountain torrents or by breasting steep -and stony hills, mere ladders of tree-root and loose stones: laden -animals frequently cannot ascend or descend them. The worst paths in -this region are those which run along the banks of the many streams and -rivulets, and which traverse the broken and thorny ground at the base of -the hills. The former are “thieves’ roads,” choked with long succulent -grass springing from slushy mud; the latter are continued rises and -falls, with a small but ragged and awkward watercourse at every bottom. -From Usagara to Western Unyamwezi the roads lead through thick -thorn-jungle, and thin forests of trees blazed or barked along the -track, without hill, but interrupted during the rains by swamps and -bogs. They are studded with sign-posts, broken pots and gourds, horns -and skulls of game and cattle, imitations of bows and arrows pointing -towards water, and heads of holcus. Sometimes a young tree is bent -across the path and provided with a cross-bar; here is a rush gateway -like the yoke of the ancients, or a platform of sleepers supported by -upright trunks; there a small tree felled and replanted, is tipped with -a crescent of grass twisted round with bark, and capped with huge snail -shells, and whatever barbarous imagination may suggest. Where many roads -meet, those to be avoided are barred with a twig or crossed by a line -drawn with the foot. In Western Uvinza and near Ujiji, the paths are -truly vile, combining all the disadvantages of bog and swamp, river and -rivulet, thorn-bush and jungle, towering grasses, steep inclines, -riddled surface, and broken ground. The fords on the whole line are -temporary as to season, but permanent in place: they are rarely more -than breast-deep; and they average in dry weather a cubit and a half, -the fordable medium. There are but two streams, the Mgeta and the -Ruguvu, which are bridged over by trees; both could be forded higher up -the bed; and on the whole route there is but one river, the Malagarazi, -which requires a ferry during the dry season. Cross roads abound in the -populous regions. Where they exist not, the jungle is often impassable, -except to the elephant and the rhinoceros: a company of pioneers would -in some places require a week to cut their way for a single march -through the network of thorns and the stockade of rough tree-trunks. The -directions issued to travellers about drawing off their parties for -safety at night to rising grounds, will not apply to Eastern Africa; it -would be far easier to dig for themselves abodes under the surface. - -It is commonly asserted in the island of Zanzibar that there are no -caravans in these regions. The dictum is true if the term be limited to -the hosts of camels and mules that traverse the deserts and the -mountains of Arabia and Persia. It is erroneous if applied to a body of -men travelling for commercial purposes. From time immemorial the -Wanyamwezi have visited the road to the coast, and though wars and -blood-feuds may have temporarily closed one line, another necessarily -opened itself. Amongst a race so dependent for comfort and pleasure upon -trade, commerce, like steam, cannot be compressed beyond a certain -point. Until a few years ago, when the extension of traffic induced the -country people to enlist as porters, all merchants traversed these -regions with servile gangs hired on the coast or island of Zanzibar, a -custom still prevailing on the northern and southern routes from the -sea-board to the lakes of Nyanza and Nyassa. Porterage, on the long and -toilsome journey, is now considered by the Wanyamwezi a test of -manliness, as the Englishman deems a pursuit or a profession necessary -to clear him from the charge of effeminacy. The children imbibe the -desire with their milk, and at six or seven years old they carry a -little tusk on their shoulders--instinctive porters, as pointer-pups are -hereditary pointers. By premature toil their shinbones are sometimes -bowed to the front like those of animals too early ridden. “He sits in -hut egg-hatching,” is their proverbial phrase to express one more -elegant-- - - “Home-keeping youth have ever homely wits.” - -And they are ever quoting the adage that men who travel not are -void of understanding--the African equivalent of what was said by the -European sage: “The world is a great book, of which those who never -leave home read but a page.” Against this traditional tendency reasons -of mere hire and rations, though apparently weighty, are found wanting. -The porter will bargain over his engagement to the utmost bead, saying -that all men are bound to make the best conditions for themselves: yet, -after two or three months of hard labour, if he chance upon a caravan -returning to his home, a word from a friend, acting upon his innate -debility of purpose, will prevail upon him to sacrifice by desertion all -the fruits of his toil. On these occasions the porters are carefully -watched; open desertion would, it is true, be condemned by the general -voice, yet no merchant can so win the affections of his men that some -will not at times disappear. Until the gangs have left their homes far -behind, their presence seems to hang by a thread; at the least pretext -they pack up their goods and vanish in a mass. When approaching their -settlements--at the frontier districts of Tura and Mfuto, for -instance--their cloth and hire are taken from them, packed in the -employer’s bales, and guarded by armed slaves, especially at night, and -on the line of march. Yet these precautions frequently fail, and, once -beyond the camp limits, it is vain to seek the fugitive. In the act of -desertion they show intelligence: they seldom run away when caravans -first meet, lest their employer should halt and recover them by main -force, and, except where thieves and wild beasts are unknown, they will -not fly by night. The porter, however, has one point of honour; he -leaves his pack behind him. The slave, on the other hand, certainly robs -his employer when he runs away, and this, together with his -unwillingness to work and the trouble and annoyance which he causes to -his owner, counterbalances his superior dexterity and intelligence. - -Caravans, called in Kisawahili safári (from the Arab safar, a journey) -and by the African rugendo or lugendo, “a going,” are rarely wanting on -the main trunk-lines. The favourite seasons for the upward-bound are the -months in which the greater and the lesser Masika or tropical rains -conclude--in June and September, for instance, on the coast--when water -and provisions are plentiful. Those who delay till the dry weather has -set in must expect hardships on the march; the expense of rations will -be doubled and trebled, and the porters will frequently desert. The -down-caravans set out in all seasons except the rainy; it is difficult -to persuade the people of Unyanyembe to leave their fields between the -months of October and May. They will abandon cultivation to the women -and children, and merrily take the footpath way if laden with their own -ivory, but from the merchant they will demand exorbitant wages, and even -then they will hesitate to engage themselves. - -Porterage varies with every year and in every caravan. It knows but two -limits: the interest of the employer to disburse as little as possible -by taking every advantage of the necessities of his employé, and the -desire of the employé to extract as much as he can by presuming upon the -wants of his employer. In some years there is a glut of porters on the -coast; when they are rare quarrels take place between the several -settlements, each attempting a monopoly of enlistment to the detriment -of its neighbours, and a little blood is sometimes let. When the -Wanyamwezi began to carry, they demanded for a journey from the coast to -their own country six to nine dollars’ worth of domestics, coloured -cloths, brass-wires, and the pigeon’s-egg bead called sungomaji. The -rate of porterage then declined; the increase of traffic, however, has -of late years greatly increased it. In 1857 it was 10 dollars, and it -afterwards rose to 12 dollars per porter. In this sum rations are not -included; the value of these--which by ancient custom are fixed at 1 -kubabah (about 1·5 lbs.) of grain per diem, or, that failing, of manioc, -sweet potatoes, and similar articles, with the present of a bullock at -the frontier--is subject to greater variations, and is even less -reducible to an average than the porter’s pay. It is needless to say -that the down-journey is less expensive than the up-march, as the -carriers rely upon a fresh engagement on the coast. The usual hire from -Unyanyembe would be nine cloths, payable on arrival at the sea-port, -where each is worth 25 cents, or about 1 shilling. The Arabs roughly -calculate--the errors balancing one another--that, rations included, the -hire of a porter from the coast to the Tanganyika Lake and back amounts -to a total of 20 dollars = 4_l._ 3_s._ From the coast, Wanyamwezi -porters will not engage themselves for a journey westward of their own -country; at Unyanyembe they break up, and a fresh gang must be enlisted -for a march to the Tanganyika or to the Nyanza Lake. It is impossible to -average the numbers of an East African caravan, which varies from half a -dozen to 200 porters, under a single Mundewa or merchant. In dangerous -places travellers halt till they form an imposing force; 500 is a -frequent figure, and even bodies of 1000 men are not rare. The only -limit to the gathering is the incapability of the country to fill more -than a certain number of mouths. The larger caravans, however, are slow -and cumbrous, and in places they exhaust the provision of water. - -Caravans in East Africa are of three kinds. The most novel and -characteristic are those composed only of Wanyamwezi; secondly, are the -caravans directed and escorted by Wasawahili freemen or fundi (slave -fattori), commissioned by their patrons; and, lastly, those commanded by -Arabs. - -The porter, called pagazi or fagazi--the former is the African, the -latter the ridiculous Arabised form of the word--corresponds with the -carregador of West Africa. The Wanyamwezi make up large parties of men, -some carrying their own goods, others hired by petty proprietors, who -for union and strength elect a head Mtongi, Ras Kafilah, or leader. The -average number of these parties that annually visit the coast is far -greater than those commanded by stranger-merchants. In the Unyamwezi -caravan there is no desertion, no discontent, and, except in certain -spots, little delay. The porters trudge from sunrise to 10 or 11 A.M., -and sometimes, though rarely, they will travel twice a day, resting only -during the hours of heat. They work with a will, carrying -uncomplainingly huge tusks, some so heavy that they must be lashed to a -pole between two men--a contrivance technically called mziga-ziga. Their -shoulders are often raw with the weight, their feet are sore, and they -walk half or wholly naked to save their cloth for displays at home. They -ignore tent or covering, and sleep on the ground; their only supplies -are their country’s produce, a few worn-down hoes, intended at times to -purchase a little grain or to be given as blackmail for sultans, and -small herds of bullocks and heifers that serve for similar purposes if -not lost, with characteristic African futility, upon the road. Those who -most consult comfort carry, besides their loads and arms, a hide for -bedding, an earthen cooking pot, a stool, a kilindo or bark-box -containing cloth and beads, and perhaps a small gourd full of ghee. They -sometimes suffer severely from exposure to a climate which forbids long -and hard work upon short and hard fare. Malignant epidemics, especially -small-pox, often attack caravans as they approach the coast; generally, -however, though somewhat lean and haggard, the porters appear in better -condition than might be expected. The European traveller will repent -accompanying these caravans: as was said of a similar race, the Indians -of Guiana, “they will not deviate three steps from the regular path.” - -Porters engaged by Arab Mtajiri or Mundewa--the former is the -Kisawahili, the latter is the Inner African term for a merchant or -travelling trader--are known by their superior condition; they eat much -more, work much less, and give far greater trouble to their commanders. -They expend part of the cloth and beads which they have received as hire -to procure for themselves occasional comforts; and on the down-journey -they take with them a few worn-down hoes to retain the power of -desertion without starving. The self-willed wretches demean themselves -with the coolest impudence; reply imperiously, lord it over their -leaders, regulate the marches and the halts, and though they work they -never work without loud complaints and open discontent. Rations are a -perpetual source of heart-burning: stinted at home to a daily mess of -grain-porridge, the porters on the line of march devote, in places where -they can presume, all their ingenuity to extort as much food as possible -from their employers. At times they are seized with a furore for meat. -When a bullock is slaughtered, the Kirangozi or guide claims the head, -leaving the breast and loin to the Mtongi or principal proprietor, and -the remainder is equally portioned amongst the khambi or messes into -which the gang divides itself. As has been remarked, the Arab merchant, -next to the Persian, is the most luxurious traveller in the East; a -veteran of the way, he well knows the effects of protracted hardship and -scarcity upon a wayfarer’s health. The European traveller, however, will -not enjoy the companionship of the Arab caravan, which marches by -instinct rather than by reason. It begins by dawdling over the -preliminaries; it then pushes hurriedly onwards till arrested by -epidemic or desertion; and finally it lingers over the end of the -journey, thus loosing time twice. This style of progress is fatal to -observation; moreover, none but a special caravan, consisting of slaves -hired for the purpose in the island of Zanzibar or on the coast, and -accompanied by their own Ahbab or patron--without whom they will obey no -employer, however generous or energetic--will enable the explorer to -strike into an unbeaten path, or to progress a few miles beyond the -terminus of a main trunk-road. The most enterprising of porters will -desert, leaving the caravan-leader like a water-logged ship. - -Between these two extremes are the trading parties directed by the -Wasawahili, the Wamrima, and the slave Fundi--the Pombeiros of West -Africa--kindred souls with the Pagazi, understanding their languages and -familiar with their habits, manners, and customs. These “Safari” are -neither starved like those composed of Wanyamwezi, nor pampered like -those headed by the Arabs. There is less fatigue during the march, and -more comfort at the halting-place, consequently there are fewer cases of -disease and death. These semi-African Mtongi, hating and jealousing -Arabs and all strangers, throw every obstacle in their way, spread -reports concerning their magical and malevolent powers which are -dangerous amongst the more superstitious barbarians, they offer a -premium for desertion, and in fine, they labour hard though fruitlessly, -to retain their ancient monopoly of the profits derived from the -interior. - -I will now describe the day’s march and the halt of the East African -caravan. - -At 3 A.M., all is silent as the tomb, even the Mnyamwezi watchman nods -over his fire. About an hour later the red-faced apoplectic -chanticleer--there are sometimes half-a-dozen of them--the alarum of the -caravan, and a prime favourite with the slaves and porter, who carry him -on their banghy-poles by turns, and who drench him with water when his -beak opens under the sun,--flaps his wings and crows a loud salutation -to the dawn: he is answered by every cock and cockerel within ear-shot. -I have been lying awake for some time, longing for the light, and when -in health, for an early breakfast. At the first paling of the East, the -torpid Goanese are called up to build a fire, they tremble with the -cold--thermometrically averaging 60° F.--and they hurry to bring food. -Appetite somewhat difficult at this hour, demands a frequent change of -diet, we drink tea or coffee when procurable, or we eat rice-milk and -cakes raised with whey, or a porridge not unlike water-gruel. Whilst we -are so engaged, the Baloch chanting the spiritual songs which follow -prayers, squat round a cauldron placed upon a roaring fire, and fortify -the inner man with boiled meat and grain, with toasted pulse and -tobacco. - -About such time, 5 A.M., the camp is fairly roused, and a little low -chatting becomes audible. This is a critical moment. The porters have -promised overnight, to start early, and to make a long wholesome march. -But, “uncertain, coy, and hard to please,” they change their minds like -the fair sex, the cold morning makes them unlike the men of the warm -evening, and perhaps one of them has fever. Moreover, in every caravan -there is some lazy, loud-lunged, contradictory and unmanageable fellow, -whose sole delight is to give trouble. If no march be in prospect, they -sit obstinately before the fire warming their hands and feet, inhaling -the smoke with everted heads, and casting quizzical looks at their -fuming and fidgety employer. If all be unanimous, it is vain to attempt -them, even soft sawder is but “throwing comfits to cows.” We return to -our tent. If, however, there be a division, a little active stimulating -will cause a march. Then a louder conversation leads to cries of Kwecha! -Kwecha! Pakia! Pakia! Hopa! Hopa! Collect! pack! set out! Safari! Safari -leo! a journey, a journey to-day! and some peculiarly African boasts, -P’hunda! Ngami! I am an ass! a camel! accompanied by a roar of bawling -voices, drumming, whistling, piping, and the braying of Barghumi, or -horns. The sons of Ramji come in a body to throw our tents, and to -receive small burdens, which, if possible, they shirk; sometimes Kidogo -does me the honour to inquire the programme of the day. The porters, -however, hug the fire till driven from it, when they unstack the loads -piled before our tents and pour out of the camp or village. My companion -and I, when well enough to ride, mount our asses, led by the gunbearers, -who carry all necessaries for offence and defence; when unfit for -exercise, we are borne in hammocks, slung to long poles, and carried by -two men at a time. The Baloch tending their slaves hasten off in a -straggling body, thinking only of escaping an hour’s sun. The Jemadar, -however, is ordered to bring up the rear with Said bin Salim, who is -cold and surly, abusive and ready with his rattan. Four or five packs -have been left upon the ground by deserters, or shirkers, who have -started empty-handed, consequently our Arab either double-loads more -willing men, or persuades the sons of Ramji to carry a small parcel -each, or that failing, he hires from some near village a few porters by -the day. This, however, is not easy, the beads have been carried off, -and the most tempting promises without pre-payment, have no effect upon -the African mind. - -When all is ready, the Kirangozi or Mnyamwezi guide rises and shoulders -his load, which is ever one of the lightest. He deliberately raises his -furled flag, a plain blood-red, the sign of a caravan from Zanzibar, -much tattered by the thorns, and he is followed by a privileged Pagazi, -tom-toming upon a kettle-drum much resembling a European hour-glass. The -dignitary is robed in the splendour of scarlet broadcloth, a narrow -piece about six feet long, with a central aperture for the neck, and -with streamers dangling before and behind; he also wears some wonderful -head-dress, the spoils of a white and black “tippet-monkey,” or the -barred skin of a wild cat, crowning the head, bound round the throat, -hanging over the shoulders, and capped with a tall cup-shaped bunch of -owl’s feathers, or the gorgeous plumes of the crested crane. His -insignia of office are the kipungo or fly-flapper, the tail of some -beast which he affixes to his person as if it were a natural growth, the -kome, or hooked iron spit, decorated with a central sausage of -parti-coloured beads, and a variety of oily little gourds containing -snuff, simples, and “medicine,” for the road, strapped round his waist. -He leads the caravan, and the better to secure the obedience of his -followers he has paid them in a sheep or a goat, the value of which he -will recover by fees and superiority of rations--the head of every -animal slaughtered in camp and the presents at the end of the journey -are exclusively his. A man guilty of preceding the Kirangozi is liable -to fine, and an arrow is extracted from his quiver to substantiate his -identity at the end of the march. Pouring out of the kraal in a -disorderly mob, the porters stack their goods at some tree distant but a -few hundred yards, and allow the late, the lazy, and the invalids to -join the main body. Generally at this conjuncture the huts are fired by -neglect or mischievousness. The khambi, especially in winter, burns like -tinder, and the next caravan will find a heap of hot ashes and a few -charred sticks still standing. Yet by way of contrast the Pagazi will -often take the trouble to denote by the usual signposts to those -following them that water is at hand. Here and there a little -facetiousness appears in these erections, a mouth is cut in the -tree-trunk to admit a bit of wood, simulating a pipe, with other -representations still more waggish. - -After the preliminary halt, the caravan, forming into the order of -march, winds, like a monstrous land-serpent, over hill, dale, and plain. -The Kirangozi is followed by an Indian file, those nearest to him, the -grandees of the gang, are heavily laden with ivories: when the weight of -the tusk is inordinate, it is tied to a pole and is carried -palanquin-fashion by two men. A large cowbell, whose music rarely ceases -on the march, is attached to the point which is to the fore; to the -bamboo behind is lashed the porter’s private baggage,--his earthen -cooking-pot, his water-gourd, his sleeping-mat, and his other -necessaries. The ivory-carriers are succeeded by the bearers of cloth -and beads, each man, poising upon either shoulder, and sometimes raising -upon the head for rest, packs that resemble huge bolsters, six feet long -by two in diameter, cradled in sticks, which generally have a forked -projection for facility of stacking and reshouldering the load. The -sturdiest fellows are usually the lightest loaded: in Eastern Africa, as -elsewhere, the weakest go to the wall. The maximum of burden may be two -farasilah, or seventy pounds, avoirdupois. Behind the cloth bearers -straggles a long line of porters and slaves, laden with the lighter -stuff, rhinoceros-teeth, hides, salt-cones, tobacco, brass wire, iron -hoes, boxes and bags, beds and tents, pots and water-gourds, mats and -private stores. With the Pagazi, but in separate parties, march the -armed slaves, who are never seen to quit their muskets, the women, and -the little toddling children, who rarely fail to carry something, be it -only of a pound weight, and the asses neatly laden with saddle-bags of -giraffe or buffalo-hide. A “Mganga” almost universally accompanies the -caravan, not disdaining to act as a common porter. The “parson” not only -claims, in virtue of his sacred calling, the lightest load; he is also a -stout, smooth, and sleek-headed man, because, as usual with his class, -he eats much and he works little. The rear is brought up by the master -or the masters of the caravan, who often remains far behind for the -convenience of walking and to prevent desertion. - -All the caravan is habited in its worst attire, the East African derides -those who wear upon a journey the cloth which should be reserved for -display at home. If rain fall they will doff the single goat-skin hung -round their sooty limbs, and, folding it up, place it between the -shoulder and the load. When grain is served out for some days’ march, -each porter bears his posho or rations fastened like a large “bussel” to -the small of his back. Upon this again, he sometimes binds, with its -legs projecting outwards, the three-legged stool, which he deems -necessary to preserve him from the danger of sitting upon the damp -ground. As may be imagined, the barbarians have more ornament than -dress. Some wear the ngala, a strip of zebra’s mane bound round the head -with the bristly parti-coloured, hair standing out like a saint’s -“gloria:” others prefer a long bit of stiffened ox-tail, rising like a -unicorn’s horn, at least a foot above the forehead. Other ornaments are -the skins of monkeys and ocelots, rouleaus and fillets of white, blue, -or scarlet cloth, and huge bunches of ostrich, crane, and jay’s -feathers, crowning the head like the tufts of certain fowls. Their arms -are decorated with massive ivory bracelets, heavy bangles of brass or -copper, and thin circlets of the same metal, beads in strings and bands, -adorn their necks, and small iron bells, a “knobby” decoration, whose -incessant tinkling harmonises, in African ears, with the regular -chime-like “Ti-ti! Ti-ti! tang!” of the tusk-bells, and the loud broken -“Wa-ta-ta!” of the horns, are strapped below the knee or round the ankle -by the more aristocratic. All carry some weapon; the heaviest armed have -a bow and a bark-quiver full of arrows, two or three long spears and -assegais, a little battle-axe borne on the shoulder, and the sime or -dudgeon. - -The normal recreations of a march are, whistling, singing, shouting, -hooting, horning, drumming, imitating the cries of birds and beasts, -repeating words which are never used except on journeys--a “chough’s -language, gabble enough and good enough”--and abundant squabbling; in -fact perpetual noise which the ear however, soon learns to distinguish -for the hubbub of a halt. The uproar redoubles near a village, where the -flag is unfurled and where the line lags to display itself. All give -vent to loud shouts, “Hopa! hopa!--go on! go on! Mgogolo!--a stoppage! -Food! food! Don’t be tired! The kraal is here--home is near! Hasten, -kirangozi--Oh! We see our mothers! We go to eat!” On the road it is -considered prudent as well as pleasurable to be as loud as possible, in -order to impress upon plunderers an exaggerated idea of the caravan’s -strength; for equally good reasons silence is recommended in the kraal. -When threatened with attack and no ready escape suggests itself, the -porters ground their loads and prepare for action. It is only -self-interest that makes them brave; I have seen a small cow, trotting -up with tail erect, break a line of 150 men carrying goods not their -own. If a hapless hare or antelope cross the path, every man casts his -pack, brandishes his spear, and starts in pursuit; the animal never -running straight is soon killed, and torn limb from limb, each negroid -helluo devouring his morsel raw. Sometimes a sturdy fellow “renowns it” -by carrying his huge burden round and round, like a horse being ringed, -and starts off at full speed. When two bodies meet, that commanded by an -Arab claims the road. If both are Wanyamwezi, violent quarrels ensue, -but fatal weapons, which are too ready at hand, are turned to more -harmless purposes, the bow and spear being used as whip and cudgel. -These affrays are not rancorous till blood is shed. Few tribesmen are -less friendly for so trifling an affair as a broken head; even a slight -cut or a shallow stab is little thought of; but, if returned with -interest, great loss of life may arise from the slenderest cause. When -friendly caravans meet, the two Kirangozis sidle up with a stage pace, a -stride, and a stand, and with sidelong looks prance till arrived within -distance; then suddenly and simultaneously “ducking,” like boys “giving -a back,” they come to logger-heads and exchange a butt violently as -fighting rams. Their example is followed by all with a rush and a crush, -which might be mistaken for the beginning of a faction, but it ends, if -there be no bad blood, in shouts of laughter. The weaker body, however, -must yield precedence and offer a small present as blackmail. - -About 8 A.M., when the fiery sun has topped the trees and a pool of -water, or a shady place appears, the planting of the red flag, the -braying of a Barghumi, or koodoo’s horn, which, heard at a distance in -the deep forests, has something of the charm which endears the “Cor de -Chasse” to every woodman’s ear, and sometimes a musket-shot or two, -announces a short halt. The porters stack their loads, and lie or loiter -about for a few minutes, chatting, drinking, and smoking tobacco and -bhang, with the usual whooping, screaming cough, and disputing eagerly -about the resting-place for the day. On long marches we then take the -opportunity of stopping to discuss the contents of two baskets which are -carried by a slave under the eye of the Goanese. - -If the stage be prolonged towards noon, the caravan lags, straggles, and -suffers sorely. The heat of the ground, against which the horniest sole -never becomes proof, tries the feet like polished-leather boots on a -quarter-deck in the dog-days near the Line, and some tribulation is -caused by the cry M’iba hapa!--thorns here! The Arabs and the Baloch -must often halt to rest. The slaves ensconce themselves in snug places; -the porters, propping their burdens against trees, curl up, dog-like, -under the shade; some malinger; and this, the opportunity preferred for -desertion, is an anxious hour to the proprietor; who, if he would do his -work “deedily,” must be the last in the kraal. Still the men rarely -break down. As in Indian marching, the African caravan prefers to end -the day, rather than to begin it, with a difficulty--the ascent of a -hill, or the fording of a stream. They prefer the strip of jungle at the -further end of a district or a plantation, for safety as well as for the -comfort of shade. They avoid the vicinity of rocks; and on desert plains -they occupy some slightly rising ground, where the night-cold is less -severe than in the lower levels. - -At length an increased hubbub of voices, blended with bells, drums, -fifes, and horns, and sometimes a few musket-shots, announce that the -van is lodged, and the hubbub of the halt confirms the pleasing -intelligence that the journey is shortened by a stage. Each selfish body -then hurries forward to secure the best boothy in the kraal, or the most -comfortable hut in the village, and quarrels seem serious. Again, -however, the knife returns home guiltless of gore, and the spear is used -only as an instrument for sound belabouring. The more energetic at once -apply themselves to “making all snug” for the long hot afternoon and the -nipping night; some hew down young trees, others collect heaps of leafy -boughs; one acts architect, and many bring in huge loads of firewood. -The East African is so much accustomed to house-life, that the bivouac -in the open appears to him a hardship; he prefers even to cut out the -interior of a bush and to squat in it, the portrait of a comfortable -cynocephalus. We usually spread our donkey-saddles and carpets in some -shade, awaiting the arrival of our tents, and its erection by the -grumbling sons of Ramji; if we want a hut, we draw out the man in -possession like a badger,--he will never have the decency to offer it. -As a rule, the villagers are more willing to receive the upward-bound -caravans, than those who, returning, carry wealth out of instead of into -the country. Merchants, on account of their valuable outfits, affect, -except in the safest localities, the khambi rather than the village; the -latter, however, is not only healthier, despite its uncleanliness in -miasmatic lands, but is also more comfortable, plenty and variety of -provisions being more readily procured inside than outside. The Arab’s -khaymah is a thin pole or ridge-tent of flimsy domestics, admitting sun -and rain, and, like an Irish cabin, permitting at night the occupant to -tell time by the stars; yet he prefers it, probably for dignity, to the -boothy which, in this land of verdure and cool winds, is a far more -comfortable lodging. - -The Wamrima willingly admit strangers into their villages; the Wazaramo -would do the same, but they are constantly at feud with the Wanyamwezi, -who therefore care not to avail themselves of the dangerous hospitality. -In K’hutu caravans seize by force the best lodgings. Throughout Eastern -Usagara travellers pitch tents in the dear central spaces, surrounded by -the round huts of the peasantry, under whose low and drooping eaves the -pagazi find shelter. In the western regions, where the Tembe or square -village prevails, kraals form the nighting-place. In Ugogo strangers -rarely enter the hamlets, the hovels being foul, and the people -dangerous. Throughout Eastern and Central Unyamwezi caravans defile into -the villages without hesitation. Some parties take possession of the -Iwanza or public-house; others build for themselves tabernacles of leafy -boughs, which they are expected to clear away before departure, and the -headman provides lodgings for the Mtongi. In Western Unyamwezi the doors -are often closed against strangers, and in Eastern Uvinza the people -will admit travellers to bivouac, but they will not vacate their huts. -In Western Uvinza, a desert like Marenga and Mgunda Mk’hali, substantial -khambi occur at short intervals. At Ujiji, the Sultan, after offering -the preliminary magubiko or presents, provides his guests with lodgings, -which, after a time sufficient for enabling them to build huts, they -must vacate in favour of new comers. In the other Lake Regions the -reception depends mainly upon the number of muskets in a caravan, and -the character of the headman and his people. - -The khambi or kraal everywhere varies in shape and material. In the -eastern regions, where trees are scarce, wattle frames of rough sticks, -compacted with bark-fibre, are disposed in a circle; the forked -uprights, made higher behind and lower in front, to form a sloping roof, -support horizontal or cross poles, which are overlaid with a rough -thatch of grass or grain-cane. The central space upon which the boothies -open is occupied by one or more huts for the chiefs of the party; and -the outer circle is a loose fence of thorn branches, flimsy, yet -impassable to breech-less legs, unshod feet, and thin loose -body-garments. When a kraal must be built, rations are not served out -till enclosures made round the camp secure the cattle; if the leader be -dilatory, or unwilling to take strong measures, he may be a serious -loser. The stationary kraals become offensive, if not burnt down after a -few months. The Masika-kraal, as it is called, is that occupied only -during the rainy monsoon, when water is everywhere found. The vicinity -and the abundance of that necessary are the main considerations in -selecting the situation of encampments. The bark-kraals commence in -Uvinza, where trees abound, and extend to the Tanganyika Lake; some are -substantial, as the temporary villages, and may be a quarter of a mile -in circumference. The Lakist population carry with them, when -travelling, Karagwah or stiff mats of reed and rush; these they spread -over and fasten to a firmly-planted framework of flexible boughs, not -unlike a bird’s nest inverted, or they build a cone of strong canes, in -the shape of piled muskets, with the ends lashed together. It is curious -to see the small compass in which the native African traveller can -contract himself: two, and even three, will dispose their heads and part -of their bodies--leaving their lower limbs to the mercy of the -elements--under a matting little more than a yard square. - -When lodgings in the kraal have been distributed, and the animals have -been off-packed, and water has been brought from the pit or stream, all -apply themselves to the pleasant toil of refection. Merrily then sounds -the breathless chant of the woman pounding or rubbing down grain, the -song of the cook, and the tinkle-tinkle of the slave’s pestle, as he -bends over the iron mortar from which he stealthily abstracts the -coffee. The fireplaces are three stones or clods, placed trivet-wise -upon the ground, so that a draught may feed the flame, they are far -superior to the holes and trenches of our camps and pic-nics. The tripod -supports a small black earthen pot, round which the khambi or little -knot of messmates perseveringly squat despite the stinging sun. At home -where they eat their own provisions they content themselves with a -slender meal of flour and water once a day. But like Spaniards, Arabs, -and all abstemious races, they must “make up for lost time.” When -provisions are supplied to them, they are cooking and consuming as long -as the material remains; the pot is in perpetual requisition, now filled -to be emptied, then refilled to be re-emptied. They will devour in three -days the rations provided for eight, and then complain loudly that they -are starved. To leave a favourable impression upon their brains, I had a -measure nearly double that generally used, yet the perverse wretches -pleading hunger, though they looked like aldermen by the side of the -lean bony anatomies whom they met on the road, would desert whenever met -by a caravan. After a time there will, doubtless, be a re-action; when -their beards whiten they will indulge in the garrulity of age; they will -recount to wondering youth the prodigality of the Muzungu, in filling -them with grain, even during the longest marches, and they will compare -his loads of cloth and beads with the half dozen “shaggy” cows and the -worn-out hoes, the sole outfit for presents and provisions carried by -caravans of “Young Africa.” If there be any delay in serving out -provisions, loud cries of Posho! p’hamba!--rations! food!--resound -through the camp; yet when fatigued, the porters will waste hours in -apathetic idleness rather than walk a few hundred yards to buy grain. -Between their dozen meals they puff clouds of pungent tobacco, cough and -scream over their jungle-bhang, and chew ashes, quids, and pinches of -red earth, probably the graves of white ants. If meat be served out to -them, it is eaten as a relish; it never, however, interferes with the -consumption of porridge. A sudden glut of food appears to have the -effect of intoxicating them. The Arabs, however, avoiding steady -rations, alternately gorge and starve their porters, knowing by -experience that such extremes are ever most grateful to the barbarian -stomach. The day must be spent in very idleness; a man will complain -bitterly if told to bring up his pack for opening; and general -discontent, with hints concerning desertion, will arise from the -mortification of a muster. On such occasions he and his fellows will -raise their voices,--when not half-choked by food--and declare that they -will not be called about like servants, and crouch obstinately round the -smoky fire, the pictures of unutterable disgust; and presently enjoy the -sweet savour of stick-jaw dough and pearl-holcus like small shot, rat -stews, and boiled weeds, which they devour till their “bulge” appears -like the crop of a stuffed turkey. Sometimes when their improvidence has -threatened them with a Banyan-day, they sit in a melancholy plight, -spitefully smoking and wickedly eyeing our cooking-pots; on these -occasions they have generally a goat or a bullock in store, and, if not, -they finesse to obtain one of ours. I always avoid issuing an order to -them direct, having been warned by experience that Kidogo or the -Kirangozi is the proper channel; which sorely vexes Valentine and Seedy -Bombay, whose sole enjoyment in life is command. I observed that when -wanted for extra-work, to remove thorns or to dig for water, that the -false alarm of Posho! (rations) summons them with a wonderful alacrity. -Moreover, I remarked that when approaching their country and leaving -ours--the coast--they became almost unmanageable and _vice versâ_ as -conditions changed. - -My companion and I pass our day as we best can, sometimes in a bower of -leafy branches, often under a spreading tree, rarely in the flimsy tent. -The usual occupations are the diary and the sketch-book, added to a -little business. The cloth must be doled out, and the porters must be -persuaded, when rested, to search the country for rations, -otherwise--the morrow will be a blank. When a bullock is killed one of -us must be present. The porters receive about a quarter of the meat, -over which they sit wrangling and screaming like hyænas, till a fair -division according to messes is arrived at. Then, unless watched, some -strong and daring hand will suddenly break through the ring, snatch up -half a dozen portions and disappear at a speed defying pursuit; others -will follow his example, with the clatter and gesture of a troop of -baboons, and the remainder will retire as might be expected, grumbling -and discontented. Dinner at 4 P.M. breaks the neck of the day. -Provisions of some kind are mostly procurable, our diet, however, varies -from such common doings as the hard holcus-scone, the tasteless -bean-broth and the leathery goat-steak, to fixings of delicate venison, -fatted capon, and young guinea-fowl or partridge, with “bread sauce,” -composed of bruised rice and milk. At first the Goanese declined to cook -“pretty food,” as pasties and rissoles, on the plea that such things -were impossible upon the march; they changed their minds when warned -that persistence in such theory might lead to a ceremonious fustigation. -Moreover, they used to serve us after their fashion, with a kind of -“portion” on plates; the best part, of course, remained in the pots and -digesters; these, therefore, were ordered to do duty as dishes. When tea -or coffee is required in a drinkable state, we must superintend the -process of preparing it, the notions of the Goanese upon such subjects -being abominable to the civilised palate. When we have eaten our -servants take their turn; they squat opposite each other over a private -“cooking-pot” to which they have paid unremitting attention; they -stretch forth their talons and eat till weary, not satiated, pecking, -nodding, and cramming like two lank black pigeons. Being “Christians,” -that is to say, Roman Catholics, they will not feed with the heathenry, -moreover a sort of semi-European dignity forbids. Consequently Bombay -messes with his “brother” Mabruki, and the other slaves eat by -themselves. - -When the wells ahead are dry the porters will scarcely march in the -morning; their nervous impatience of thirst is such that they would -exhaust all their gourds, if they expected a scarcity in front, and then -they would suffer severely through the long hot day. They persist, -moreover, upon eating before the march, under the false impression that -it gives them strength and bottom. In fact, whenever difficulties as -regards grain or drink suggest themselves, the African requires the -direction of some head-piece made of better stuff than his own. The -hardships of the tirikeza have already been described: they must be -endured to be realised. - -Night is ushered in by penning and pounding the cows, and by tethering -the asses--these “careless Æthiopians” lose them every second day,--and -by collecting and numbering the loads, a task of difficulty where every -man shirks the least trouble. When there has been no tirikeza, when -provisions have been plentiful, and when there is a bright moonshine, -which seems to enliven these people like jackals, a furious drumming, a -loud clapping of hands, and a general droning song, summon the lads and -the lasses of the neighbouring villages to come out and dance and “make -love.” The performance is laborious, but these Africans, like most men -of little game, soon become too tired to work, but not too tired to play -and amuse themselves. Their style of salutation is remarkable only for -the excessive gravity which it induces; at no other time does the East -African look so serious, so full of earnest purpose. Sometimes a single -dancer, the village buffoon, foots a _pas seul_, featly, with head, -arms, and legs, bearing strips of hair-garnished cow-skin, which are -waved, jerked, and contorted, as if dislocation had occurred to his -members. At other times, a line or a circle of boys and men is formed -near the fire, and one standing in the centre, intones the song solo, -the rest humming a chorus in an undertone. The dancers plumbing and -tramping to the measure with alternate feet, simultaneously perform a -treadmill exercise with a heavier stamp at the end of every period: they -are such timists, that a hundred pair of heels sound like one. At first -the bodies are slowly swayed from side to side, presently as excitement -increases, the exercise waxes severe: they “cower down and lay out their -buttocks,” to use pedantic Ascham’s words, “as though they would shoot -at crows;” they bend and recover themselves, and they stoop and rise to -the redoubled sound of the song and the heel-music, till the assembly, -with arms waving like windmills, assumes the frantic semblance of a ring -of Egyptian Darwayshes. The performance often closes with a grand -promenade; all the dancers being jammed in a rushing mass, a _galop -infernale_, with the features of satyrs, and gestures resembling aught -but the human. When the fun threatens to become too fast and furious, -the song dies, and the performers, with loud shouts of laughter, throw -themselves on the ground, to recover strength and breath. The greybeards -look on with admiration and sentiment, remembering the days when they -were capable of similar feats. Instead of “bravo,” they ejaculate “Nice! -nice! very nice!” and they wonder what makes the white men laugh. The -ladies prefer to perform by themselves, and perhaps in the East, ours -would do the same, if a literal translation of the remarks to which a -ball always gives rise amongst Orientals, happened by misfortune to -reach their refined ears. - -When there is no dancing, and the porters can no longer eat, drink, and -smoke, they sit by their fires, chatting, squabbling, talking and -singing some such “pure nectar” as the following. The song was composed, -I believe, in honour of me, and I frequently heard it when the singers -knew that it was understood. The Cosmopolitan reader will not be -startled by the epithet “Mbaya,” or wicked, therein applied to the -Muzungu. A “good white man,” would indeed, in these lands, have been -held an easy-going soul, a natural, an innocent, like the “buona -famiglia,” of the Italian cook, who ever holds the highest quality of -human nature to be a certain facility for being “plucked without -’plaining,” and being “flayed without flinching.” Moreover, despite my -“wickedness,” they used invariably to come to me for justice and -redress, especially when proximity to the coast encouraged the guide and -guards to “bully” them. - - “Muzungu mbaya” (the wicked white man) goes from the shore, - (_Chorus_) Puti! Puti! (I can only translate it by “grub! grub!”) - We will follow “Muzungu mbaya.” - Puti! Puti! - As long as he gives us good food! - Puti! Puti! - We will traverse the hill and the stream, - Puti! Puti! - With the caravan of this great mundewa (merchant). - Puti! Puti! &c., &c. - -The Baloch and the sons of Ramji quarrel, yell, roar, and talk of -eating--the popular subject of converse in these lands, as is beer in -England, politics in France, law in Normandy, “pasta” at Naples, and to -say no more, money everywhere--till a late hour. About 8 P.M., the small -hours of the country, sounds the cry lala! lala!--sleep! It is willingly -obeyed by all except the women, who must sometimes awake to confabulate -even at midnight. One by one the caravan sinks into torpid slumber. At -this time, especially when in the jungle-bivouac, the scene often -becomes truly impressive. The dull red fires flickering and forming a -circle of ruddy light in the depths of the black forest, flaming against -the tall trunks and defining the foliage of the nearer trees, illuminate -lurid groups of savage men, in every variety of shape and posture. -Above, the dark purple sky, studded with golden points, domes the earth -with bounds narrowed by the gloom of night. And, behold! in the western -horizon, a resplendent crescent, with a dim, ash-coloured globe in its -arms, and crowned by Hesperus, sparkling like a diamond, sinks through -the vast of space, in all the glory and gorgeousness of Eternal Nature’s -sublimest works. From such a night, methinks, the Byzantine man took his -device, the Crescent and the Star. - -The rate of caravan-marching in East Africa greatly varies. In cool -moonlit mornings, over an open path, the Pagazi will measure perhaps -four miles an hour. This speed is reduced by a quarter after a short -“spurt,” and under normal, perhaps favourable, circumstances, three -statute miles will be the highest average. Throughout the journey it is -safe to reckon for an Indian file of moderate length--say 150 men--2·25 -English miles, or what is much the same, 1·75 geographical miles per -hour, measured by compass from point to point. In a clear country an -allowance of 20 per cent, must be made for winding: in closer regions -40-50 per cent., and the traveller must exercise his judgment in -distributing his various courses between these extremes. Mr. Cooley -(Inner Africa Laid Open, p. 6) a “resolute,” and I may add a most -successful “reducer of itinerary distances,” estimates that the ordinary -day’s journey of the Portuguese missionaries in West Africa never -exceeded six geographical miles projected in a straight line, and that -on rare occasions, and with effort only, it may have extended to 10 -miles. Dr. Lacerda’s porters in East Africa were terrified at the -thought of marching ordinarily 2·50 Portuguese leagues, or about 9·33 -statute miles per day. Dr. Livingstone gives the exceedingly high -maximum of 2·50 to 3 miles an hour in a straight line, but his porters -were lightly laden, and the Makololo are apparently a far “gamer” race, -more sober and industrious, than the East Africans. Mr. Petherick, H. -M.’s Consul at Khartum, estimates his gangs to have marched 3·50 miles -per hour, and the ordinary day’s march at 8 hours. It is undoubted that -the negro races north of the equator far surpass in pedestrian powers -their southern brethren; moreover the porters in question were marching -only for a single day; but as no instruments were used, the average may -fairly be suspected of exaggeration. Finally Mr. Galton’s observation -concerning Cape travelling applies equally well to this part of Africa, -namely, that 10 statute or 6 rectilinear geographical miles per diem is -a fair average of progress, and that he does well who conducts the same -caravan 1,000 geographical miles across a wild country in six months. - -I will conclude this chapter with a succinct account of the inn, that is -to say the village in East Africa. - -The habitations of races form a curious study and no valueless guide to -the nature of the climate and the physical conditions to which men are -subject. - -Upon the East African coast the villages, as has been mentioned, are -composed of large tenements, oblongs or squares of wattle and dab, with -eaves projecting to form a deep verandah and a thatched pent-roof, -approaching in magnitude that of Madagascar. - -Beyond the line of maritime land the “Nyumba” or dwelling-house assumes -the normal African form, the circular hut described by every traveller -in the interior: Dr. Livingstone appears to judge rightly that its -circularity is the result of a barbarous deficiency in inventiveness. It -has, however, several varieties. The simplest is a loose thatch thrown -upon a cone of sticks based upon the ground, and lashed together at the -apex: it ignores windows, and the door is a low hole in the side. A -superior kind is made after the manner of our ancient bee hives; it is -cup-shaped with bulging sides, and covered with neat thatch, cut in -circles which overlap one another tile-fashion: at a distance it -resembles an inverted bird’s nest. The common shape is a cylindrical -framework of tall staves, or the rough trunks of young trees planted in -the earth, neatly interwoven with parallel and concentric rings of -flexible twigs and withies: this is plastered inside and outside with a -hard coat of red or grey mud; in the poorer tenements the surface is -rough and chinked, in the better order it is carefully smoothed and -sometimes adorned with rude imitations of life. The diameter averages -from 20 to 25, and the height from 7 to 15 feet in the centre, which is -supported by a strong roof-tree, to which all the stacked rafters and -poles converge. The roof is subsequently added, it is a structure -similar to the walls, interwoven with sticks, upon which thick grass or -palm-fronds are thrown, and the whole is covered with thatch tied on by -strips of tree-bark. It has eaves which projecting from two to six -feet--under them the inhabitants love to sit or sun shade -themselves--rest upon horizontal bars, which are here and there -supported by forked uprights, trees rudely barked. Near the coast the -eaves are broad and high: in the interior they are purposely made so low -that a man must creep in on all fours. The door-way resembles the -entrance to an English pig-sty, it serves, however, to keep out heat in -the hot season, and to keep in smoke and warmth during the rains and the -cold weather: the threshold is garnished with a horizontal log or board -that defends the interior from inundation. The door is a square of reeds -fastened together by bark or cord, and planted upright at night between -the wall and two dwarf posts at each side of the entrance: there is -generally a smaller and a secret door opposite that in use, and -jealously closed up except when flight is necessary. In the colder and -damper regions there is a second wall and roof outside the first, -forming in fact one house within the other. - -About Central Usagara the normal African haystack-hut makes place for -the “Tembe” which extends westward, a little beyond Unyanyembe. The -Tembe, though of Hamitic origin, resembles the Utum of the ancients, and -the Hishan of the modern Hejaz, those hollow squares of building which -have extended through Spain to France and even to Ireland: it was, -probably, suggested to Africa and to Arabia by the necessity of defence -to, as well as lodging for, man and beast. It is to a certain extent, a -proof of civilisation in Eastern Africa: the wildest tribes have not -progressed beyond the mushroom or circular hut, a style of architecture -which seems borrowed from the indigenous mimosa tree. - -Westward of Unyamwezi in Uvinza and about the Tanganyika Lake the round -hovel again finds favour with the people; but even there the Arabs -prefer to build for themselves the more solid and comfortable Tembe. - -The haystack-hut has been described by a multitude of travellers: the -“Tembe,” or hollow village, yet awaits that honour. - -The “Tembe” wants but the addition of white-wash to make it an effective -feature in African scenery: as it is, it appears from afar like a short -line of raised earth. Provided with a block-house at each angle to sweep -dead ground where fire, the only mode of attack practised in these -regions, can be applied, it would become a fort impregnable to the -Eastern African. The form is a hollow square or oblong, generally -irregular, with curves, projections, and semicircles; in the East -African Ghauts, the shape is sometimes round or oval to suit the -exigencies of the hill-sides and the dwarf cones upon which it is built. -On the mountains and in Ugogo, where timber is scarce, the houses form -the continued frontage of the building, which, composed of -mimosa-trunks, stout stakes, and wattle and dab, rarely exceeds seven -feet in height. In the southern regions of Usagara where the Tembe is -poorest, the walls are of clods loosely put together and roofed over -with a little straw. About Msene where fine trees abound, the Tembe is -surrounded by a separate boma or palisade of young unbarked trunks, -short or tall, and capped here and there with cattle-skulls, blocks of -wood, grass-wisps, and similar talismans; this stockade, in damper -places, is hedged with a high thick fence, sometimes doubled and -trebled, of peagreen milk-bush, which looks pretty and refreshing, and -is ditched outside with a deep trench serving as a drain. The cleared -space in front of the main passage through the hedges is often decorated -with a dozen poles, placed in a wide semicircle to support human skulls, -the mortal remains of ill-conducted boors. In some villages the -principal entrance is approached by long, dark and narrow lanes of -palisading. When the settlement is built purely for defence, it is -called “Kaya,” and its headman “Muinyi Kaya,” the word, however, is -sometimes used for “Boma” or “Mji,” a palisaded village in general. In -some parts of Unyamwezi there is a Bandani or exterior boothy, where the -men work at the forge, or sit in the shade, and where the women husk, -pound, and cook their grain. - -The general roof of the Tembe is composed of mud and clay heaped upon -grass thickly strewed over a framework of rafters supported by the long -walls. It has, usually, an obtuse slope to the front and another to the -rear, that rain may not lie; it is, however, flat enough to support the -bark-bins of grain, gourds, old pots, firewood, water-melons, pumpkins, -manioc, mushrooms, and other articles placed there to ripen or dry in -the sun. It has no projecting eaves, and it is ascended from the inside -by the primitive ladder, the inclined trunk of a tree, with steps formed -by the stumps of lopped boughs, acting rings. The roof, during the -rains, is a small plot of bright green grass: I often regretted not -having brought with me a little store of mustard and cress. In each -external side of the square, one or two door-ways are pierced; they are -large enough to admit a cow, and though public they often pass through -private domiciles. They are jealously closed at sunset, after which hour -not a villager dares to stir from his home till morning. The outer doors -are sometimes solid planks, more often they are three or four heavy -beams suspended to a cross-bar passing through their tops. When the way -is to be opened they are raised from below and are kept up by being -planted in a forked tree-trunk inside the palisade: they are let down -when the entrance is to be closed, and are barred across with strong -poles. - -The tenements are divided from one another by party-walls of the same -material as the exterior. Each house has, usually, two rooms, a “but” -and a “ben,” which vary in length from 20 to 50 feet, and in depth from -12 to 15: they are partitioned by a screen of corn-canes supported by -stakes, with a small passage left open for light. The “but,” used as -parlour, kitchen, and dormitory, opens upon the common central square; -the “ben” receives a glimmer from the doors and chinks, which have not -yet suggested the idea of windows: it serves for a sleeping and a store -room; it is a favourite place with hens and pigeons that aspire to be -mothers, and the lambs and kids in early infancy are allowed to pass the -night there. The inner walls are smeared with mud: lime is not -procurable in Eastern Africa, and the people have apparently no -predilection for the Indian “Gobar:” floor is of tamped earth, rough, -uneven, and unclean. The prism-shaped ceiling is composed of rafters and -thin poles gently rising from the long-walls to the centre, where they -are supported by strong horizontals, which run the whole length of the -house, and these again rest upon a proportionate number of pillars, -solid forked uprights, planted in the floor. The ceiling is polished to -a shiny black with smoke, which winds its way slowly through the -door--smoke and grease are the African’s coat and small clothes, they -contribute so much to his health and comfort that he is by no means -anxious to get rid of them--and sooty lines depend from it like -negro-stalactites. - -The common enceinte formed by the houses is often divided into various -courts, intended for different families, by the walls of the tenements, -or by stout screens, and connected by long wynds and dark alleys of -palisade-work. The largest and cleanest square usually belongs to the -headman. In these spaces cattle are milked and penned; the ground is -covered with a thick coat of the animals’ earths, dust in the hot -weather and deep viscid mud during the rains: the impurity must be an -efficacious fomite of cutaneous and pectoral disease. The villagers are -fond of planting in the central courts trees, under whose grateful shade -the loom is plied, the children play, the men smoke, and the women work. -Here, also, stands the little Mzimu, or Fetiss-hut, to receive the -oblations of the pious. Places are partitioned off from the public -ground, near the houses, by horizontal trunks of trees, resting on -forks, forming pens to keep the calves from the cows at night. In some -villages huge bolsters of surplus grain, neatly packed in bark and -corded round, are raised on tall poles near the interior doors of the -tenements. Often, too, the insides of the settlements boast of -pigeon-houses, which in this country are made to resemble, in miniature, -those of the people. In Unyamwezi the centre is sometimes occupied by -the Iwanza, or village “public-house,” which will be described in a -future chapter. - -In some regions, as in Ugogo, these lodgings become peculiarly offensive -if not burnt after the first year. The tramping of the owners upon the -roof shakes mud and soot from the ceiling, and the rains wash down -masses of earthwork heavy enough to do injury. The interior is a -menagerie of hens, pigeons, and rats, of peculiar impudence. Scorpions -and earwigs fall from their nests in the warm or shady rafters. The -former, locally termed “Nge,” is a small yellow variety, and though it -stings spitefully the pain seldom lasts through the day; as many as -three have dropped upon my couch in the course of the week. In Ugogo -there is a green scorpion from four to five inches long, which inflicts -a torturing wound. According to the Arabs the scorpion in Eastern Africa -dies after inflicting five consecutive stings, and commits suicide if a -bit of stick be applied to the middle of its back. The earwig is common -in all damp places, and it haunts the huts on account of the shade. The -insect apparently casts its coat before the rainy season, and the -Africans ignore the superstition which in most European countries has -given origin to its trivial name. A small xylophagus with a large black -head rains a yellow dust like pollen from the riddled woodwork; -house-crickets chirp from evening to dawn; cockroaches are plentiful as -in an Indian steamer; and a solitary mason-wasp, the “Kumbharni,” or -“potter’s wife” of western India--a large hymenopter of several -varieties, tender-green, or black and yellow, or dark metallic -blue--burrows holes in the wall, or raises plastered nests, and buzzes -about the inmates’ ears; lizards, often tailless after the duello, -tumble from the ceilings; in the darker corners spiders of frightful -hideousness weave their solid webs; and the rest of the population is -represented by tenacious ticks of many kinds, flies of sorts, bugs, -fleas, mosquitoes, and small ants, which are, perhaps, the worst plagues -of all. The Riciniæ in Eastern Africa are locally called Papazi, which -probably explains the “Pazi bug,” made by Dr. Krapf a rival in venom to -the Argas Persicus, or fatal “bug of Miana.” In Eastern Africa these -parasites are found of many shapes, round and oval, flat and swollen; -after suction they vary in size from microscopic dimensions to -three-quarters of an inch; the bite cannot poison, but the constant -irritation caused by it may induce fever and its consequences. A hut -infested with Papazi must be sprinkled with boiling water, and swept -clean for many weeks, before they will disappear. In the Tembe there is -no draught to disturb the smaller occupants, consequently they are more -numerous than in the circular cottage. Moreover, the people, having an -aversion to sleeping in the open air, thus supply their co-inhabitants -with nightly rations, which account for their fecundity. - -The abodes, as might be expected, are poorly furnished. In Unyamwezi, -they contain invariably one or more “Kitanda.” This cartel, or bedstead, -is a rude contrivance. Two parallel lines of peeled tree-branches, -planted at wide intervals, support in their forks horizontal poles: upon -these is spread crosswise a layer of thick sticks, which forms the -frame. The bedding consists of a bull-hide or two, and perhaps a long, -coarse, rush-mat. It is impossible for any one but an African to sleep -upon these Kitanda, on account of their shortness, the hardness of the -material, and the rapid slope which supplies the want of pillows, and -serves for another purpose which will not be described. When removed, a -fractured pole will pour forth a small shower of the foul cimex: this -people of hard skins considers its bite an agreeable titillation, and, -what may somewhat startle a European, esteems its odour a perfume. -Around the walls depend from pegs neatly-plaited slings of fibrous cord, -supporting gourds and “vilindo”--neat cylinders, like small band-boxes, -of tree bark, made to contain cloth, butter, grain, or other provisions. -In the store-room, propped upon stones, and plastered over with clay for -preservation, are Lindo, huge corn-bins of the same material; grain is -ground upon a coarse granite slab, raised at an angle of 25°, about one -foot above the floor, and embedded in a rim of hard clay. The hearth is -formed of three “Mafiga,” or truncated cones of red or grey mud, -sometimes two feet high, and ten inches in diameter at the base: they -are disposed triangularly, with the apex to the wall, and open to the -front when the fire is made. The pot rests upon the tripod. The broom, a -wisp of grass, a bunch of bamboo splints, or a split fibrous root, -usually sticks in the ceiling; its work is left to the ants. From the -rafters hang drums and kettle-drums, skins and hides in every process, -and hooked twigs dangling from strings support the bows and arrows, the -spears and assegais. An arrow is always thrust into the inner thatch for -good luck: ivory is stored between the rafters, hence its dark ruddy -colour, which must be removed by ablution with warm blood; and the -ceiling is a favourite place for small articles that require -seasoning--bows, quivers, bird-bolts, knob-sticks, walking-canes, -reed-nozzles for bellows, and mi’iko or ladles, two feet long, used to -stir porridge. The large and heavy water-pots, of black clay, which are -filled every morning and evening by the women at the well, lie during -the day empty or half empty about the room. The principal article of -luxury is the “Kiti,” or dwarf stool, cut out of a solid block, -measuring one foot in height by six inches in diameter, with a concave -surface for convenience of sitting: it has usually three carved legs or -elbows; some, however, are provided with a fourth, and with a base like -the seat, to steady them. They are invariably used by the Sultan and the -Mganga, who disdain to sit upon the ground: and the Wamrima ornament -them with plates of tin let into the upper concaves. The woods generally -used for the Kiti, are the Mninga and the Mpingu. The former is a tall -and stately tree, which supplies wood of a dark mahogany colour, exuding -in life a red gum, like dragon’s blood: the trunk is converted into -bowls and platters, the boughs into rafters, which are, however, weak -and subject to the xylophagus, whilst of the heart are made spears, -which, when old and well-greased, resemble teak-wood. The Mpingu is the -Sisam of India, (Dalbergia Sissoo) here erroneously called by the Arabs -Abnus--ebony. The tree is found throughout Eastern Africa. The wood is -of fine quality, and dark at the core: the people divide it into male -and female; the former is internally a dark brick-dust red, whilst the -latter verges upon black: they make from it spears and axe-handles, -which soon, however, when exposed to the air, unless regularly greased, -become brittle. The massive mortar, for husking grain, called by the -people “Mchi,” is shaped exactly like those portrayed in the -interior-scenes of ancient Egypt: it is hewn out of the trunk of the -close-grained Mkora tree. The huge pestle, like a capstan-bar, is made -of the Mkorongo, a large tree with a fine-grained wood, which is also -preferred to others for rafters, as it best resists the attacks of -insects. - -Such, gentle reader, is the Tembe of Central Africa. Concerning village -life, I shall have something to say in a future page. The scene is more -patent to the stranger’s eye in these lands than in the semi-civilised -regions of Asia, where men rarely admit him into their society. - -[Illustration: African House Building.] - - - - -CHAP. XI. - -WE CONCLUDE THE TRANSIT OF UNYAMWEZI. - - -I was detained at Kazeh from the 8th November to the 14th December, -1857, and the delay was one long trial of patience. - -It is customary for stranger-caravans proceeding towards Ujiji to remain -six weeks or two months at Unyanyembe for repose and recovery from the -labours which they have, or are supposed to have, endured: moreover, -they are expected to enjoy the pleasures of civilised society, and to -accept the hospitality offered to them by the resident Arabs. In Eastern -Africa, I may again suggest, six weeks is as the three days’ visit in -England. - -On the morning after our arrival at Kazeh, the gang of Wanyamwezi -porters that had accompanied us from the coast withdrew their hire from -our cloth-bales; and not demanding, because they did not expect, -bakhshish, departed, without a sign of farewell, to their homes in -Western Unyamwezi. The Kirangozi or guide received a small present of -domestics: his family being at Msene, distant five marches ahead, he -fixed, after long haggling, the term of fifteen days as his leave of -absence, after which he promised to join me with a fresh gang for the -journey to Ujiji. - -The rest of the party apparently considered Unyanyembe, not Ujiji, the -end of the exploration; it proved in effect a second point of departure, -easier than Kaole only because I had now gained some experience. - -Two days after our arrival, the Baloch, headed by their Jemadar, -appeared in full toilette to demand a “Hakk el Salamah,” or reward for -safe-conduct. I informed them that this would be given when they had -reached the end of the up-march. The pragmatical Darwaysh declared that -without bakhshish there would be no advance; he withdrew his words, -however, when my companion was called in to witness their being -committed to paper--a proceeding always unpalatable to the Oriental. The -Baloch then subsided into begging for salt and spices, and having -received more than they had probably ever possessed in their lives, they -privily complained of my parsimony to Said bin Salim. They then sent for -tobacco, a goat, gunpowder, bullets--all which they obtained. Their next -manœuvre was to extract four cloths for tinning their single copper pot -and for repairing the matchdogs and stocks of two old matchlocks. They -then sold a keg of gunpowder committed to their charge. They had -experienced every kindness from Snay bin Amir, from Sallum bin Hamid, in -fact, from all the Arab merchants of Kazeh. They lodged comfortably in -Musa Mzuri’s house, and their allowance, one Shukkah of domestics per -diem, enabled them to buy goats, sheep, and fowls--luxuries unknown in -their starving huts at Zanzibar. Yet they did not fail, with their foul -tongues, ever ready, as the Persians say, for “spitting at Heaven,” to -charge their kind hosts with the worst crime that the Arab -knows--niggardness. - -On the 8th November, I had arranged with Kidogo, as well as with the -Kirangozi, to resume the march at the end of a fortnight. Ten days -afterwards I again sent for him to conclude the plans concerning the -journey: evidently something lay deep within his breast, but the -difficulty was to extract it. He began by requiring a present for his -excellent behaviour--he received, to his astonishment, four cloths. He -next demanded leave to visit his Unyamwezi home for a week, and was -unpleasantly surprised when it was granted. He then “hit the right nail -on the head.” The sons of Ramji, declaring that I had promised them a -bullock on arrival at Kazeh, had seized, hamstrung, and cut up a fine -fat animal sent to me by Sallum bin Hamid; yet Kidogo averred that the -alleged promise must be fulfilled to them. When I refused, he bluntly -informed me that I was quite equal to the task of collecting porters for -myself; I replied that this was his work and not mine. He left the house -abruptly, swearing that he would not trouble himself any longer, and, -moreover, for the future that his men should not carry the lightest -load, nor assist us even in threading beads. At last, on the 27th -November, I sent for Kidogo, and told him that the march was positively -fixed for the next week. After sitting for a time “_cupo concentrato_,” -in profound silence, the angry slave arose, delivered a volley of -rattling words with the most theatrical fierceness, and rushed from the -room, leaving the terrified Said bin Salim gazing upon vacancy like an -idiot. Accompanied by his followers, who were shouting and laughing, he -left the house, when--I afterwards heard--they drew their sabres, and -waving them round their heads, they shouted, for the benefit of Arabs, -“Tume-shinda Wazungu”--“We have conquered the Whites!” I held a -consultation with my hosts concerning the advisability of disarming the -recreant sons of Ramji. But Sallum bin Hamid, the “papa” of the colony, -took up the word, and, as usual with such deliberative bodies, the -council of war advised peace. They informed me that in Unyamwezi slaves -and muskets are the stranger’s sole protection, and as they were -unanimous in persuading me to temporise, to “swallow anger” till after -return, I felt bound, after applying for it, to be guided by their -advice. At the consultation, however, the real object which delayed the -sons of Ramji at Kazeh oozed out: their patroon, Mr. Rush Ramji, had -written to them that his and their trading outfit was on its way from -the coast; consequently, they had determined to await, and to make us -await, its arrival before marching upon Ujiji. - -On the 14th November, the Masika or wet season, which had announced its -approach by premonitory showers and by a final burst of dry heat, set in -over the Land of the Moon with torrents of rain and “rain-stones,” as -hail is here called, and with storms of thunder and lightning, which -made it more resemble the first breaking of an Indian than the desultory -fall of a Zanzibar wet-monsoon. I was still under the impression that we -were encountering the Choti Barsat or Little Rains of Bengal and Bombay; -and curious to say, the Arabs of Unyanyembe one and all declared, even -after the wet-monsoon had reached its height, that the Masika in -Unyamwezi is synchronous with that of the island and the coast, namely, -in early April. - -The Rains in Eastern Africa are, like the summer in England, the only -healthy and enjoyable season: the contrast between the freshness of the -air and the verdure of the scenery after the heat, dust, and desolation -that preceded the first showers, was truly luxurious. Yet the Masika has -many disadvantages for travellers. The Wanyamwezi, who were sowing their -fields, declined to act porters, and several Arab merchants, who could -not afford the expenditure required to hire unwilling men, were halted -perforce in and near Unyanyembe. The peasants would come in numbers; -offer to accompany the caravan; stand, stare, and laugh their vacant -laughs; lift and balance their packs; chaffer about hire; promise to -return next morning, and definitively disappear. With the utmost -exertion Snay bin Amir could collect only ten men, and they were all -ready to desert. Moreover, the opening of the Masika is ever unhealthy; -strangers suffer severely from all sudden changes of temperature; -Unyamwezi speedily became - - “As full of agues as the sun in March.” - -Another cause of delay became imminent; my companion was -comparatively strong, but the others were prostrated by sickness. -Valentine first gave in; he was nearly insensible for three days and -nights, the usual period of the Mukunguru or “Seasoning” of Unyamwezi--a -malignant bilious remittent--which left him weaker and thinner than he -had ever been before. When he recovered, Gaetano fell ill, and was soon -in the happy state of unconsciousness which distinguished all his -fevers. The bull-headed slave Mabruki also retired into private life, -and Bombay was laid up by a shaking ague, whilst the Baloch and the sons -of Ramji, who had led a life so irregular that the Arabs had frequently -threatened them with punishment, also began to pay the penalty of -excess. - -Snay bin Amir was our principal doctor. An adept in the treatment, -called by his countrymen “camel-physic,” namely, cautery and similar -counter-irritants, he tried his art upon me when I followed the example -of the party. At length, when the Hummah, or hot fit, refused to yield -to its supposed specific, a coating of powdered ginger, he insisted upon -my seeing a Mganga, or witch, celebrated for her cures throughout the -country-side. She came, a wrinkled old beldame, with a greasy skin, -black as soot, set off by a mass of tin-coloured pigtails: her arms were -adorned with copper bangles like manacles, and the implement of her -craft was, as usual, a girdle of small gourds dyed red-black with oil -and use. - -After demanding and receiving her fee in cloth, she proceeded to search -my mouth, and to inquire anxiously concerning poison. The question -showed the prevalence of the practice in the country, and indeed the -people, to judge from their general use of “Mithridates,” seem ever to -expect it. She then drew from a gourd a greenish powder, which was -apparently bhang, and having mixed it with water, she administered it -like snuff, causing a convulsion of sneezing, which she hailed with -shouts and various tokens of joy. Presently she rubbed my head with -powder of another kind, and promising to return the next day, she left -me to rest, declaring that sleep would cause a cure. The prediction, -however, was not fulfilled, nor was the promise. Having become wealthy, -she absconded to indulge in unlimited pombe for a week. The usual -consequences of this “seasoning,” distressing weakness, hepatic -derangements, burning palms, and tingling soles, aching eyes, and -alternate thrills of heat and cold, lasted, in my case, a whole month. - -Our departure from Kazeh had now been repeatedly deferred. The fortnight -originally fixed for the halt had soon passed in the vain search for -porters. Sickness then delayed the journey till the 1st December, and -Snay bin Amir still opined that want of carriage would detain me till -the 19th of that month; he would not name the 18th, which was an unlucky -day. When they recovered from their ailments, the Jemadar and the Baloch -again began to be troublesome. All declared that a whole year, the term -for which they had been sent by their Prince, had elapsed, and therefore -that they had now a right to return. The period was wholly one of their -own, based perhaps upon an answer which they had received from -Lieut.-Col. Hamerton touching the probable duration of the Expedition, -“a year or so.” Even of that time it still wanted five months, but -nothing from myself or from Said bin Salim could convince men who would -not be convinced, of that simple fact. Ismail, the Baloch, who was dying -of dysentery, reported himself unable to proceed: arrangements were made -to leave him and his “brother” Shahdad--the fearful tinkling of whose -sleepless guitar argued that the sweet youth was in love--under the -charge of Snay bin Amir, at Kazeh. Greybeard Mohammed was sulking with -his fellows. He sat apart from them; and complaining that he had not -received his portion of food, came to me for dismissal, which was -granted, but not accepted. The Jemadar required for himself and the -escort a porter per man. When this was refused, he changed his tactics, -and began to lament bitterly the unavoidable delay. He annoyed me with -ceaseless visits, which were spent in harping upon the one string, “When -do we march?” At last I forbade all allusion to the subject. In wrath he -demanded leave, declaring that he had not come to settle in Africa, and -much “excessiveness” to the same effect. He was at last brought to his -senses by being summarily turned out of the house for grossly insulting -my companion. A reaction then ensued; the Baloch professed penitence, -and all declared themselves ready to march or to halt as I pleased. Yet, -simulating impatience to depart, they clung to the pleasures of Kazeh; -they secretly caused the desertion of the porters, and they never ceased -to spread idle reports, vainly hoping that I might be induced to return -to the coast. - -Finally, Said bin Salim fulfilled at Kazeh Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s acute -prophecy. The Bukini blood of his mother--a Malagash slave--got the -better of his Omani descent. I had long reformed my opinion concerning -his generosity and kindheartedness, hastily concluded during a short -cruise along the coast. “Man’s heart,” say the Arabs, “is known only in -the fray, and man’s head is known only on the way.” But though -high-flown sentiment and studied courtesy had disappeared with the first -days of hardship and fatigue, he preserved for a time the semblance of -respectability and respect. Presently, like the viler orders of -Orientals, he presumed upon his usefulness, and his ability to forward -the Expedition; the farther we progressed from our “_point d’appui_” the -coast, the more independent became his manner,--of course it afterwards -subsided into its former civility,--and an overpowering egotism formed -the motive of his every action. I had imprudently allowed him to be -accompanied by the charming Halimah. True to his servile origin, he -never seemed happy except in servile society, where he was “king of his -company.” At Kazeh, jealous of my regard for Snay bin Amir, and wearied -by long evening conversations, where a little “ilm” or knowledge in the -shape of history and divinity used to appear,--his ignorance and apathy -concerning all things but A. bin B., and B. bin C., who married his son -D. to the daughter of E., prevented his taking part in them,--he became -first sulky, and then “contrarious.” Formerly he was wont, on the usual -occasions, to address a word of salutation to my companion: this ceased, -and presently he would pass him as if he had been a bale of cloth. He -affected in society the indecorous posture of a European woman stretched -upon a sofa, after crouching for months upon his shins,--in fact he was, -as the phrase is, “trailing his jacket” for a quarrel. - -Through timidity he had been profuse in expending the goods entrusted to -his charge, and he had been repeatedly reproved for serving out, without -permission, cloth and beads to his children. Yet, before reaching -Unyanyembe, I never had reason to suspect him of dishonesty or deceit. -At Kazeh, however, he was ordered to sell a keg of gunpowder, before his -slaves could purloin the whole. He reported that he had passed on the -commission to Snay bin Amir. I also forbade him to issue hire to porters -for a return-march from the Lake, having been informed that such was the -best way to secure their desertion; and the information proved true -enough, as twenty-five disappeared in a single night. He repeatedly -affirmed that he had engaged and paid them for the up-march only. When -he stood convicted of a double falsehood, he had _not_ spoken about the -gunpowder, and he _had_ issued whole hire to several of the porters, I -improved the occasion with a mild reproach. The little creature became -vicious as a weasel, screamed like a hyæna, declared himself no tallab -or “asker,” but an official under his government, and poured forth a -torrent of justification. I cut the same short by leaving the room--a -confirmed slight in these lands--and left him to rough language on the -part of Snay bin Amir. Some hours subsequently he recovered his temper, -and observed that “even husband and wife must occasionally have a gird -at each other.” Not caring, however, for a repetition of such -puerilities, I changed the tone of kindness in which he had invariably -been addressed, for one of routine command, and this was preserved till -the day of our final parting on the coast. - -The good Snay bin Amir redoubled his attentions. His slaves strung in -proper lengths, upon the usual palm-fibre, the beads sent up loose from -Zanzibar; and he distributed the bales in due proportions for carriage. -Our lights being almost exhausted, he made for us “dips,” by ladling -over wicks of unravelled “domestics” the contents of a cauldron filled -with equal parts of hot wax and tallow. My servant, Valentine, who, -evincing uncommon aptitude for cooking, had as yet acquired only that -wretched art of burlesquing coarse English dishes which renders the -table in Western India a standing mortification to man’s palate, was -apprenticed to Mama Khamisi, a buxom housekeeper in Snay’s -establishment. There, in addition to his various Goanese -accomplishments--making curds and whey, butter, cheese, and ghee; -potting fish, pickling onions and limes, and preparing jams and jelly -from the pleasant and cooling rosel,--he learned the art of yeasting -bread with whey or sour bean-flour (his leathery scones of coarse meal -were an abomination to us); of straining honey, of preparing the -favourite “Kawurmeh,” jerked or smoked meat chipped up and soused in -ghee; of making Firni, rice-jelly, and Halwa, confectionery, in the -shape of “Kazi’s luggage,” and “hand-works:” he was taught to make ink -from burnt grain; and last, not least, the trick of boiling rice as it -should be boiled. We, in turn, taught him the various sciences of -bird-stuffing, of boiling down isinglass and ghee, of doctoring tobacco -with plantain, heeart, and tea leaves, and of making milk-punch, cigars, -and guraku for the hookah. Snay bin Amir also sent into the country for -plantains and tamarinds, then unprocurable at Kazeh, and he brewed a -quantity of beer and mawa or plantain-wine. He admonished the Baloch and -the sons of Ramji to be more careful, as regards conduct and -expenditure. He lent me valuable assistance in sketching the outlines of -the Kinyamwezi, or language of Unyamwezi, and by his distances and -directions we were enabled to lay down the Southern limits, and the -general shape of the Nyanza or Northern Lake, as correctly--and the maps -forwarded from Kazeh to the Royal Geographical Society will establish -this fact--as they were subsequently determined, after actual -exploration, by my companion. He took charge of our letters and papers -intended for home, and he undertook to forward the lagging gang still -expected from the Coast: as the future will prove, his energy enabled me -to receive the much wanted reserve in the “nick of time.” - -At length, it became apparent that no other porters were procurable at -Kazeh, and that the restiff Baloch and the sons of Ramji disdaining -Cæsar’s “ite,” required his “venite.” I therefore resolved to lead them, -instead of expending time and trouble in driving them, trusting that old -habit, and that the difficulties attending their remaining behind would -induce them to follow me. After much murmuring, my companion preceded me -on the 5th December, and “made a Khambi,” at Zimbili, a lumpy hill, with -a north and south lay, and conspicuous as a landmark from the Arab -settlements, which are separated from it by a march of two hours. On the -third day I followed him, in truth, more dead than alive,--the wing of -Azrael seemed waving over my head,--even the movement of the Manchila -was almost unendurable. I found cold and comfortless quarters in a large -village at the base of Zimbili, no cartel was procurable, the roof -leaked, and every night brought with it a furious storm of lightning, -wind, and rain. By slow degrees, the Baloch began to drop in, a few of -the sons of Ramji, and the donkey-men followed, half-a-dozen additional -porters were engaged, and I was recovering strength to advance once -more, when the report that our long-expected caravan was halted at -Rubuga, in consequence of desertion, rendered a further delay necessary. -My companion returned to Kazeh, to await the arrival of the -reserve-supplies, and I proceeded onwards to collect a gang for the -journey westwards. - -At 10 A.M., on the 15th December, I mounted the Manchila, carried by six -slaves, hired by Snay bin Amir, from Khamis bin Salim at the rate of -three pounds of white beads each, for the journey to Msene. After my -long imprisonment, I was charmed with the prospect, a fine open country, -with well-wooded hills rolling into blue distance on either hand. A two -hours’ ride placed me at Yombo, a new and picturesque village of -circular tents, surrounded by plantains and wild fruit-trees. The Mkuba -bears an edible red plum, which, though scanty of flesh, as usual, where -man’s care is wanting, was found by no means unpalatable. The Metrongoma -produces a chocolate-coloured fruit, about the size of a cherry: it is -eaten, but it lacks the grateful acid of the Mkuba. The gigantic Palmyra -or Borassus, which failed in the barren platform of Ugogo, here -re-appears, and hence extends to the Tanganyika Lake. - -I halted two days at Yombo: the situation was low and unhealthy, and -provisions were procurable in homœopathic quantities. My only amusement -there was to watch the softer part of the population. At eventide, when -the labours of the day were past and done, the villagers came home in a -body, laden with their implements of cultivation, and singing a kind of -“dulce domum,” in a simple and pleasing recitative. The sunset hour, in -the “Land of the Moon,” is replete with enjoyments. The sweet and balmy -breeze floats in waves, like the draught of a fan; the sky is softly and -serenely blue; the fleecy clouds, stationary in the upper firmament, are -robed in purple and gold, and the beautiful blush, crimsoning the west, -is reflected by all the features of earth. At this time, all is life. -The vulture soars with silent flight, high in the blue expanse; the -small birds preen themselves for the night, and sing their evening -hymns; the antelopes prepare to couch in the bush; the cattle and flocks -frisk and gamble, whilst driven from their pastures; and the people busy -themselves with the simple pleasures that end the day. Every evening -there is a smoking party, which particularly attracts my attention. All -the feminine part of the population, from wrinkled grandmother to the -maiden scarcely in her teens, assemble together, and sitting in a circle -upon dwarf stools and logs of wood, apply themselves to their long -black-bowl’d pipes. - - “Sæpe illæ long-cut vel short-cut flare tobacco - Sunt solitæ pipos.” - -They smoke with an intense enjoyment, slowly and deeply inhaling -the glorious weed, and exhaling clouds from their nostrils; at times -they stop to cool the mouth with slices of raw manioc, or cobs of green -maize roasted in the ashes; and often some earnest matter of local -importance causes the pipes to be removed for a few minutes, and a -clamour of tongues breaks the usual silence. The pipe also requires -remark: the bowl is of imperfect material--the clay being -half-baked--but the shape is perfect. The African tapering cone is far -superior to the European bowl: the former gives as much smoke as -possible whilst the tobacco is fresh and untainted, and as little when -it becomes hot and unpleasant; the latter acts on the contrary -principle. Amongst the fair of Yombo, there were no less than three -beauties--women who would be deemed beautiful in any part of the world. -Their faces were purely Grecian; they had laughing eyes, their figures -were models for an artist, with-- - - “Turgide, brune e ritondette mamme,” - -like the “bending statue that delights the world” cast in bronze. -The dress--a short kilt of calabash fibre,--rather set off than -concealed their charms, and though destitute of petticoat or crinoline -they were wholly unconscious of indecorum. It is a question that by no -means can be positively answered in the affirmative, that real modesty -is less in proportion to the absence of toilette. These “beautiful -domestic animals” graciously smiled when in my best Kinyamwezi I did my -devoir to the sex; and the present of a little tobacco always secured -for me a seat in the undress circle. - -After hiring twenty porters--five lost no time in deserting--and -mustering the Baloch, of whom eleven now were present, I left Yombo on -the 18th December, and passing through a thick green jungle, with low, -wooded, and stony hills rising on the left hand, to about 4000 feet -above sea-level, I entered the little settlement of Pano. The next day -brought us to the clearing of Mfuto, a broad, populous, and fertile -rolling plain, where the stately tamarind flourished to perfection. A -third short march, through alternate patches of thin wood and field, -studded with granite blocks, led to Irora, a village in Western Mfuto, -belonging to Salim bin Salih, an Arab from Mbuamaji, and a cousin of -Said bin Mohammed, my former travelling companion, who had remained -behind at Kazeh. This individual, a fat, pulpy, and dingy-coloured -mulatto, appeared naked to the waist, and armed with bow and arrows: he -received me surlily, and when I objected to a wretched cow-shed outside -his palisade, he suddenly waxed furious: he raved like a madman, shook -his silly bow, and declared that he ignored the name of the Sayyid -Majid, being himself as good a “Sultan” as any other. He became pacified -on perceiving that his wrath excited nothing but the ridicule of the -Baloch, found a better lodging, sent a bowl of fresh milk wherein to -drown differences, and behaved on this and a subsequent occasion more -like an Arab Shaykh, than an African headman. - -On the 22nd December my companion rejoined me, bringing four loads of -cloth, three of beads, and seven of brass wire: they formed part of the -burden of the twenty-two porters who were to join the Expedition ten -days after its departure from the coast. The Hindus, Ladha Damha and Mr. -Rush Ramji, after the decease of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, had behaved -with culpable neglect. The cloth was of the worst and flimsiest -description; the beads were the cheap white and the useless black--the -latter I was obliged to throw away; and as they sent up the supply -without other guard than two armed slaves, “Mshindo” and “Kirikhota,” -the consequence was that the pair had plundered _ad libitum_. No letters -had been forwarded, and no attention had been paid to my repeated -requests for drugs and other stores. My companion’s new gang, levied at -Kazeh, affected the greatest impatience. They refused to halt for a -day,--even Christmas day. They proposed double marches, and they -resolved to proceed by the straight road to Msene. It was deemed best to -humour them. They arrived, however, at their destination only one day -before my party, who travelled leisurely, and who followed the longer -and the more cultivated route. - -We left Irora on the 23rd December, and marched from sunrise till noon -to the district of Eastern Wilyankuru. There we again separated. On the -next day I passed alone through the settlement called Muinyi Chandi, -where certain Arabs from Oman had built large Tembe, to serve as -barracoons and warehouses. This district supplies the adjoining -countries with turmeric, of which very little grows in Unyanyembe. After -this march disappeared the last of the six hammals who had been hired to -carry the hammocks. They were as unmanageable as wild asses, ever -grumbling and begging for “kitoweyo,”--“kitchen;”--constitutionally -unfitted to obey an order; disposed, as the noble savage generally is, -to be insolent; and, like all porters in this part of the world, unable -to carry a palanquin. Two men, instead of four, insisted upon bearing -the hammock; thus overburdened and wishing to get over the work, they -hurried themselves till out of breath. When one was fagged, the man that -should have relieved him was rarely to be found, consequently two or -three stiff trudges knocked them up and made them desert. Said bin -Salim, the Jemadar, and the Baloch, doubtlessly impressed with the -belief that my days were numbered, passed me on the last march without a -word--the sun was hot, and they were hastening to shade--and left me -with only two men to carry the hammock, in a dangerous strip of jungle -where, shortly afterwards, Salim bin Masud, an Arab merchant of Msene, -was murdered. - -On Christmas day I again mounted ass, and passing through the western -third of the Wilyankuru district, was hospitably received by a wealthy -proprietor, Salim bin Said, surnamed, probably on account of his -stature, Simba, or the Lion, who had obtained from the Sultan Mrorwa -permission to build a large Tembe. The worthy and kind-hearted Arab -exerted himself strenuously to promote the comfort of his guest. He led -me to a comfortable lodging, placed a new cartel in the coolest room, -supplied meat, milk, and honey, and spent the evening in conversation -with me. He was a large middle-aged man, with simple, kindly manners, -and an honesty of look and words which rendered his presence exceedingly -prepossessing. - -After a short and eventless march, on the 26th December, to Masenge, I -reached on the following day the little clearing of Kirira. I was -unexpectedly welcomed by two Arabs, Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, and -Hamid bin Ibrahim el Amuri. The former, an old man of the Beni Bu Ali -clan, and personally familiar with Sir Lionel Smith’s exploits, led me -into the settlement, which was heaped round with a tall green growth of -milkbush, and placed me upon a cartel in the cool and spacious barzah or -vestibule of the Tembe. From my vantage-ground I enjoyed the pleasant -prospect of those many little miseries which Orientals--perhaps not only -Orientals--create for themselves by “ceremony” and “politeness.” Weary -and fagged by sun and dust, the Baloch were kept standing for nearly -half an hour before the preliminaries to sitting down could be arranged -and the party could be marshalled in proper order,--the most honourable -man on the left hand of the host, and the “lower class” off the dais or -raised step;--and, when they commenced to squat, they reposed upon their -shins, and could not remove their arms or accoutrements till especially -invited to hang them up. Hungry and thirsty, they dared not commit the -solecism of asking for food or drink; they waited from 9 A.M. till noon, -sometimes eyeing the door with wistful looks, but generally affecting an -extreme indifference as to feeding. At length came the meal, a mountain -of rice, capped with little boulders of mutton. It was allowed to cool -long before precedence round the tray was settled, and ere the grace, -“Bismillah,”--the signal to “set to,”--was reverentially asked by Said -bin Salim. Followed a preparation of curdled milk, for which spoons -being requisite, a wooden ladle did the necessary. There was much -bustling and not a little importance about Hamid, the younger host, a -bilious subject twenty-four or twenty-five years old, who for reasons -best known to himself assumed the style and title of Sarkal,--Government -servant. The meal concluded with becoming haste, and was followed by -that agreeable appearance of repletion which is so pleasing to the -Oriental Amphitryon. The Baloch returned to squat upon their shins, and -they must have suffered agonies till 5 P.M., when the appearance of a -second and a more ceremonious repast enabled them once more to perch -upon their heels. It was hard eating this time; the shorwa, or mutton -broth, thickened with melted butter, attracted admiration; the guests, -however, could only hint at its excellences, because in the East if you -praise a man’s meat you intend to slight his society. The _plat de -résistance_ was, as usual, the pillaw, or, as it is here called, -pulao,--not the conventional mess of rice and fowl, almonds and raisins, -onion-shreds, cardomoms, and other abominations, which goes by that name -amongst Anglo-Indians, but a solid heap of rice, boiled after being -greased with a handful of ghee-- - -(I must here indulge in a little digression. For the past century, which -concluded with reducing India to the rank of a British province, the -proud invader has eaten her rice after a fashion which has secured for -him the contempt of the East. He deliberately boils it, and after -drawing off the nutritious starch or gluten called “conjee,” which forms -the perquisite of his Portuguese or his Pariah cook, he is fain to fill -himself with that which has become little more nutritious than the -prodigal’s husks. Great, indeed, is the invader’s ignorance upon that -point. Peace be to the manes of Lord Macaulay, but listen to and wonder -at his eloquent words!--“The Sepoys came to Clive, not to complain of -their scanty fare, but to propose that all the grain should be given to -the Europeans, who required more nourishment than the natives of Asia. -The thin gruel, they said, which was strained away from the rice would -suffice for themselves. History contains no more touching instance of -military fidelity, or of the influence of a commanding mind.” Indians -never fail to drink the “conjee.” The Arab, on the other hand, mingles -with his rice a sufficiency of ghee to prevent the extraction of the -“thin gruel,” and thus makes the grain as palatable and as nutritious as -Nature intended it to be.) - ---and dotted over with morsels of fowl, so boiled that they shredded -like yarn under the teeth. This repast again concluded with a bowl of -sweetened milk, and other entremets, for which both hosts amply -apologised; the house had lately been burned down, and honey had been -used instead of sugar. The day concluded with prayers, with a seance in -the verandah and with drinking fresh milk out of gourds--a state of -things which again demanded excuses. A multitude of “Washenzi” thronged -into the house, especially during the afternoon, to gaze at the Muzungu. -I was formally presented to the Sultan Kafrira, a tall and wrinkled -elder, celebrated for ready wits and spear. The sons of Ramji had often -looked in at the door whilst preparations for feeding were going on, but -they were not asked to sit down: the haughty host had provided them with -a lean goat, in return for which they privily expressed an opinion that -he was a “dog.” Masud, boasting of his intimacy with the Sultan -Msimbira, whose subjects had plundered our portmanteau, offered on -return to Unyanyembe his personal services in ransoming it. I accepted -with joy; but the Shaykh Masud, as afterwards proved, nearly “left his -skin” in the undertaking. - -The climate of Kíríra is called by the Arabs a medicine. They vaunt its -virtues, which become apparent after the unhealthy air of Kazeh, and -after a delicious night spent in the cool barzah, I had no reason to -question its reputation. I arose in the morning wonderfully refreshed, -and Valentine, who had been prostrated with fever throughout the day, -became another man. Yet the situation was apparently unpropitious; the -Gombe Nullah, the main drain of this region, a line of stagnant pools, -belted with almost impassable vegetation, lies hard by, and the -background is an expanse of densest jungle. - -Three short and eventless marches through thick jungle, with scattered -clearings, led me, on the 30th December, to the district of Msene, where -the dense wild growth lately traversed suddenly opens out and discloses -to the west a broad view of admirable fertility. Before entering the -settlements, the caravan halted, as usual, to form up. We then -progressed with the usual pomp and circumstance; the noise was terrific, -and the streets, or rather the spaces between the houses, were lined -with Negroid spectators. I was led to the Tembe of one Saadullah, a -low-caste Msawahili, and there found my companion looking but poorly. -Gaetano, his “boy,” was so excited by the scene, that he fell down in a -fit closely resembling epilepsy. - -Msene, the chief Bandari of Western Unyamwezi, may be called the capital -of the Coast Arabs and the Wasawahili, who, having a natural antipathy -to their brethren of Oman, have abandoned to them Unyanyembe and its -vicinity. Of late years, however, the Omani merchants, having been -driven from the neighbouring districts by sundry murders into Msene, may -at times be met there to the number of four or five. The inhabitants are -chiefly Wasumbwá, a subtribe of the Wanyamwezi race. There is, however, -besides Arabs and Wasawahili, a large floating population of the -pastoral clan called Watosi, and fugitives from Uhha. In 1858 the chief -of Msene was the Sultan Masanza. Both he and Funza, his brother, were -hospitable and friendly to travellers, especially to the Arabs, who but -a few years ago beat off with their armed slaves a large plundering -party of the ferocious Watuta. This chief has considerable power, and -the heads of many criminals elevated upon poles in front of his several -villages show that he rules with a firm hand. He is never approached by -a subject without the clapping of hands and the kneeling which in these -lands are the honours paid to royalty. He was a large-limbed, gaunt, and -sinewy old man, dressed in a dirty Subai or Arab check, over a coating -of rancid butter, with a broad brass disk, neatly arabesqued, round his -neck, with a multitude of little pigtails where his head was not bald, -and with some thirty sambo or flexible wire rings deforming, as if by -elephantiasis, his ankles. Like the generality of sultans, he despises -beads as an article of decoration, preferring coils of brass or copper. -He called several times at the house occupied by the Expedition, and on -more than one occasion brought with him a bevy of wives, whose -deportment was, I regret to say, rather naïve than decorous. - -Msene, like Unyanyembe, is not a town, but a mass of detached -settlements, which are unconscious of a regular street. To the -northwards lie the villages of the Sultan--Kwihángá and Yovu. These are -surrounded with a strong stockade, a deep moat, and a thick milk-bush -hedge, intended for defence. The interior is occupied by thatched -circular huts, divided by open squarelike spaces, and wynds and -alleys are formed by milk-bush hedges and palisades. There are distinct -places for the several wives, families, and slaves. The other -settlements--Mbugání (“in the wild”) and Mji Mpia (“new town”), the -latter being the place affected by the Wasawahili--cluster in a circle, -separated by short cross-roads, which after rain are ankle-deep in mud, -from Chyámbo, the favourite locale of the Coast Arabs. This settlement, -which contained in 1858 nine large Tembe and about 150 huts, boasts of -an African attempt at a soko or bazar, a clear space between the houses, -where, in fine weather, bullocks are daily slaughtered for food, and -where grain, vegetables, and milk are exposed for sale. At Msene a fresh -outfit of cloth, beads, and wire can be procured for a price somewhat -higher than at Unyanyembe. The merchants have small stores of drugs and -spices, and sometimes a few comforts, as coffee, tea, and sugar. The -latter is generally made of granulated honey, and therefore called -sukárí zá ásalí. The climate of Msene is damp, the neighbouring hills -and the thickly-vegetated country attracting an abundance of rain. It is -exceedingly unhealthy, the result doubtless of filth in the villages and -stagnant waters spread over the land. The Gombe Nullah, which runs -through the district, about six hours’ march from the settlements, -discharges after rain its superfluous contents into the many lakelets, -ponds, and swamps of the lowlands. Fertilised by a wet monsoon, whose -floods from the middle of October to May are interrupted only by bursts -of fervent heat, the fat, black soil manured by the decay of centuries, -reproduces abundantly anything committed to it. Flowers bloom -spontaneously over the flats, and trees put forth their richest raiment. -Rice of the red quality--the white is rare and dear--grows with a -density and a rapidity unknown in Eastern Unyamwezi. Holcus and millet, -maize and manioc, are plentiful enough to be exported. Magnificent -palmyras, bauhinias and sycomores, plantains, and papaws, and a host of -wild fruit-trees, especially the tamarind, which is extensively used, -adorn the land. The other productions are onions, sweet potatoes, and -egg-plants, which are cultivated; turmeric, brought from the vicinity; -tomatos and bird-pepper, which grow wild; pulse, beans, pumpkins, -water-melons, excellent mushrooms, and edible fungi. Milk, poultry, -honey, and tobacco are cheap and plentiful. The currency at Msene in -1858--the date is specified, as the medium is liable to perpetual and -sudden change, often causing severe losses to merchants, who, after -laying in a large outfit of certain beads, find them suddenly -unfashionable, and therefore useless--was the “pipe-stem,” white and -blue porcelain-beads, called sofi in the string, and individually msaro. -Of these ten were sufficient to purchase a pound of beef. The other -beads in demand were the sungomaji, or pigeon-egg, the red-coral, the -pink-porcelain, and the shell-decorations called kiwangwa. The cheaper -varieties may be exchanged for grain and vegetables, but they will not -purchase fowls, milk, and eggs. At this place only, the palmyra is -tapped for toddy; in other parts of East Africa the people are unable to -climb it. The market at Msene is usually somewhat cheaper than that of -Unyanyembe, but at times the prices become very exorbitant. - -The industry of Msene is confined to manufacturing a few cotton cloths, -coarse mats, clay pipeheads, and ironmongery. As might be expected from -the constitution of its society, Msene is a place of gross debauchery, -most grateful to the African mind. All, from sultan to slave, are -intoxicated whenever the material is forthcoming, and the relations -between the sexes are of the loosest description. The drum is never -silent, and the dance fills up the spare intervals of carouse, till -exhausted nature can no more. The consequence is, that caravans -invariably lose numbers by desertion when passing through Msene. Even -household slaves, born and bred upon the coast, cannot tear themselves -from its Circean charms. - -There was “cold comfort” at Msene, where I was delayed twelve days. The -clay roof of the Tembe was weed-grown like a deserted grave, and in the -foul patio or central court-yard only dirty puddles set in black mud met -the eye. The weather was what only they can realise who are familiar -with a “Rainy Monsoon.” The temptations of the town rendered it almost -impossible to keep a servant or a slave within doors; the sons of Ramji -vigorously engaged themselves in trading, and Muinyi Wazira in a -debauch, which ended in his dismissal. Gaetano had repeated epileptic -fits, and Valentine rushed into the room half-crying to show a white -animalcule--in this country called Funza--which had lately issued from -his “buff.” None of the half-caste Arabs, except I’d and Khalfan, sons -of Muallim Salim, the youths who had spread evil reports concerning us -in Ugogo and elsewhere, called or showed any civility, and the only Arab -at that time resident at Msene was the old Salim bin Masud. I received -several visits from the Sultan Masanza. His first greeting was, “White -man, what pretty thing hast thou brought up from the shore for me?” He -presented a bullock, and received in return several cloths and strings -of beads, and he introduced to us a variety of princesses, who returned -the salutes of the Baloch and others with a wild effusion. As -Christmas-day had been spent in marching, I hailed the opportunity of -celebrating the advent of the New Year. Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and -several of the guard, were invited to an English dinner on a fair -sirloin of beef, and a curious succedaneum for a plum-pudding, where -neither flour nor currants were to be found. A characteristic trait -manifested itself on this occasion. Amongst Arabs, the remnants of a -feast must always be distributed to the servants and slaves of the -guests;--a “brass knocker” would lose a man’s reputation. Knowing this, -I had ordered the Goanese to do in Rome as the Romans do; and being -acquainted with their peculiarities, I paid them an unexpected visit, -where they were found so absorbed in the task of hiding, under pots and -pans, every better morsel from a crowd of hungry peerers that the -interruption of a stick was deemed necessary. - -At length, on the 10th January, 1858, I left Msene with considerable -difficulty. The Kirangozi, or guide, who had promised to accompany me, -had sent an incompetent substitute, his brother, a raw young lad, who -had no power to collect porters. The sons of Ramji positively refused to -lend their aid in strengthening the gang. One of Said bin Salim’s -children, the boy Faraj, had fled to Kazeh. The bull-headed Mabruki was -brought back from flight only by the persuasion of his brother “Bombay,” -and even “Bombay,” under the influence of some negroid Neæra, at the -time of departure hid himself in his hut. All feared the march -westwards. A long strip of blue hill lying northwards ever keeps the -traveller in mind of the robber Watuta, and in places where the clans -are mixed, all are equally hostile to strangers. Villages are less -frequented and more meanly built, and caravans are not admitted beyond -the faubourgs--the miserable huts outlying the fences. The land also is -most unhealthy. After the rain, the rich dark loam becomes, like the -black soils of Guzerat and the Deccan, a coat of viscid mire. Above is a -canopy of cumulus and purple nimbus, that discharge their loads in -copious day-long floods. The vegetation is excessive, and where there is -no cultivation a dense matting of coarse grass, laid by wind and water -and decayed by mud, veils the earth, and from below rises a clammy -chill, like the thaw-cold of England, the effect of extreme humidity. -And, finally, the paths are mere lines, pitted with deep holes, and worn -by cattle through the jungle. - -After an hour and thirty minutes’ march I entered Mb’hali, the normal -cultivator’s village in Western Unyamwezi;--a heap of dwarf huts like -inverted birds’ nests surrounding a central space, and surrounded by -giant heaps of euphorbia or milk-bush. Tall grasses were growing almost -up to the door-ways, and about the settlement were scattered papaws and -plantains; the Mwongo, with its damson-like fruit, the Mtogwe or -wood-apple tree, and the tall solitary Palmyra, whose high columnar -stem, with its graceful central swell, was eminently attractive. We did -not delay at Mb’hali, whence provisions had been exhausted by the -markets of Msene. The 11th January led us through a dense jungle upon a -dead flat, succeeded by rolling ground bordered with low hills and -covered with alternate bush and cultivation, to Sengati, another similar -verdure-clad village of peasantry, where rice and other supplies were -procurable. On the 12th January, after passing over a dead flat of -fields and of the rankest grass, we entered rolling ground in the -vicinity of the Gombe Nullah, with scattered huts upon the rises, and -villages built close to the dense vegetation bordering upon the stream. -Sorora or Solola is one of the deadliest spots in Unyamwezi; we were -delayed there, however, three long days, by the necessity of collecting -a two months’ supply of rice, which is rarely to be obtained further -west. - -The non-appearance of the sons of Ramji rendered it necessary to take a -strong step. I could ill afford the loss of twelve guns, but Kidogo and -his men had become insufferable: moreover, they had openly boasted that -they intended to prevent my embarking upon the “Sea of Ujiji.” Despite -therefore the persuasions of the Jemadar and Said bin Salim, who looked -as if they had heard their death-warrants, I summoned the slaves, who -first condescended to appear on the 13th January--three days after my -departure,--informed them that the six months for which they were -engaged and paid had expired, and that they had better return and -transact their proprietor’s business at Kazeh. They changed, it is true, -their tone and manner, pathetically pleaded, as an excuse for their ill -conduct, that they were slaves, and promised in future to be the most -obedient of servants. But they had deceived me too often, and I feared -that, if led forwards, they might compromise the success of the -exploration. They were therefore formally dismissed, with a supply of -cloth and beads sufficient to reach Kazeh, a letter to their master, and -another paper to Snay bin Amir, authorising him to frank them to their -homes. Kidogo departed, declaring that he would carry off perforce, if -necessary, the four donkey-drivers who had been engaged and paid for the -journey to the “Sea of Ujiji” and back: as two of these men, Nasibu and -Hassani, openly threatened to desert, they were at once put in irons and -entrusted to the Baloch. They took oaths on the Koran, and, by strong -swearing, persuaded Said bin Salim and their guard to obtain my -permission for their release. I gave it unwillingly, and on the next -march they “levanted,” carrying off, as runaway slaves are wont to do, a -knife, some cloth, and other necessaries belonging to Sangora, a brother -donkey-driver. Sangora returning without leave, to recover his goods, -was seized, tied up, and severely fustigated by the inexorable Kidogo, -for daring to be retained whilst he himself was dismissed. - -The Kirangozi and Bombay having rejoined at Sorora, the Expedition left -it on the 16th January. Traversing a fetid marsh, the road plunged into -a forest, and crossed a sharp elbow of the Gombe Nullah, upon whose -grassy and reedy banks lay a few dilapidated “baumrinden” canoes, -showing that at times the bed becomes unfordable. Having passed that -night at Ukungwe, and the next at Panda, dirty little villages, where -the main of the people’s diet seemed to be mushrooms resembling ours and -a large white fungus growing over the grassy rises, on the 18th January -we entered Kajjanjeri. - -Kajjanjeri appeared in the shape of a circle of round huts. Its climate -is ever the terror of travellers: to judge from the mud and vegetation -covering the floors, the cultivators of the fields around usually retire -to another place during the rainy season. Here a formidable obstacle to -progress presented itself. I had been suffering for some days: the -miasmatic air of Sorora had sown the seeds of fresh illness. About 3 -P.M., I was obliged to lay aside the ephemeris by an unusual sensation -of nervous irritability, which was followed by a general shudder as in -the cold paroxysm of fevers. Presently the extremities began to weigh -and to burn as if exposed to a glowing fire, and a pair of jack-boots, -the companions of many a day and night, became too tight and heavy to -wear. At sunset, the attack had reached its height. I saw yawning wide -to receive me - - “those dark gates across the wild - That no man knows.” - -The whole body was palsied, powerless, motionless, and the limbs -appeared to wither and die; the feet had lost all sensation, except a -throbbing and tingling, as if pricked by a number of needle points; the -arms refused to be directed by will, and to the hands the touch of cloth -and stone was the same. Gradually the attack seemed to spread upwards -till it compressed the ribs; there, however, it stopped short. - -This, at a distance of two months from medical aid, and with the -principal labour of the Expedition still in prospect! However, I was -easily consoled. Hope, says the Arab, is woman, Despair is man. If one -of us was lost, the other might survive to carry home the results of the -exploration. I had undertaken the journey in the “nothing-like-leather” -state of mind, with the resolve either to do or die. I had done my best, -and now nothing appeared to remain for me but to die as well. - -Said bin Salim, when sent for, declared, by a “la haul!” the case beyond -his skill; it was one of partial paralysis brought on by malaria, with -which the faculty in India are familiar. The Arab consulted a Msawahili -Fundi, or caravan-guard, who had joined us on the road, and this man -declared that a similar accident had once occurred to himself and his -little party in consequence of eating poisoned mushrooms. I tried the -usual remedies without effect, and the duration of the attack presently -revealed what it was. The contraction of the muscles, which were -tightened like ligatures above and below the knees, and those λυτα -γουνατα, a pathological symptom which the old Greek loves to specify, -prevented me from walking to any distance for nearly a year; the -numbness of the hands and feet disappeared even more slowly. The Fundi, -however, successfully predicted that I should be able to move in ten -days--on the tenth I again mounted my ass. - -This unforeseen misfortune detained the caravan at Kajjanjeri till -porters could be procured for the hammock. On the 21st January four men -were with difficulty persuaded to carry me over the first march to -Usagozi. This gang was afterwards increased to six men, who severally -received six cloths for the journey to Ujiji; they all “bolted” eight -days after their engagement, and before completing half the journey. -These men were sturdier than the former set of Hammals, but being -related to the Sultan of Usagozi, they were even more boisterous, -troublesome, and insolent. One of them narrowly escaped a pistol bullet; -he ceased, however, stabbing with his dagger at the slave Mabruki before -the extreme measure became necessary. - -Usagozi was of old the capital province of Unyamwezi, and is still one -of its principal and most civilised divisions. Some authorities make -Usagozi the western frontier of Unyamwezi, others place the boundary at -Mukozimo, a few miles to the westward; it is certain, however, that -beyond Usagozi the Wanyamwezi are but part-proprietors of the soil. The -country is laid out in alternate seams of grassy plains, dense jungle, -and fertile field. The soil is a dark vegetable humus, which bears -luxuriant crops of grain, vegetables, and tobacco; honey-logs hang upon -every large tree, cattle are sold to travellers, and the people are -deterred by the aspect of a dozen discoloured skulls capping tall poles, -planted in a semicircle at the main entrance of each settlement, from -doing violence to caravans. When I visited Usagozi it was governed by -“Sultan Ryombo,” an old chief “adorned with much Christian courtesy.” -His subjects are Wakalaganza, the noble tribe of the Wanyamwezi, mixed, -however with the Watosi, a fine-looking race, markedly superior to their -neighbours, but satisfied with leaky, ragged, and filthy huts, and large -but unfenced villages. The general dress of the Wakalaganza is -bark-cloth, stained a dull black. - -We halted three days on the western extremity of the Usagozi district, -detained by another unpleasant phenomenon. My companion, whose blood had -been impoverished, and whose system had been reduced by many fevers, now -began to suffer from “an inflammation of a low type, affecting the whole -of the interior tunic of the eyes, particularly the iris, the choroid -coat, and the retina;” he describes it as “an almost total blindness, -rendering every object enclouded as by a misty veil.” The Goanese -Valentine became similarly afflicted, almost on the same day; he -complained of a “drop serene” in the shape of an inky blot--probably -some of the black pigment of the iris deposited on the front of the -lens--which completely excluded the light of day; yet the pupils -contracted with regularity when covered with the hand, and as regularly -dilated when it was removed. I suffered in a minor degree; for a few -days webs of flitting muscæ obscured smaller objects and rendered -distant vision impossible. My companion and servant, however, -subsequently, at Ujiji, were tormented by inflammatory ophthalmia, which -I escaped by the free use of “camel-medicine.” - -Quitting Usagozi on the 26th January, we marched through grain fields, -thick jungle-strips, and low grassy and muddy savannahs to Masenza, a -large and comfortable village of stray Wagara or Wagala, an extensive -tribe, limiting Unyamwezi on the S. and S.E., at the distance of about a -week’s march from the road. On the 27th January, after traversing -cultivation, thick jungles, and low muddy bottoms of tall grass -chequered with lofty tamarinds, we made the large well-palisadoed -villages of the Mukozimo district, inhabited by a mixture of Wanyamwezi, -with Wagara from the S.E. and Wawende from the S.W. The headman of one -of these inhospitable “Kaya,” or fenced hamlets, would not house “men -who ride asses.” The next station was Uganza, a populous settlement of -Wawende, who admitted us into their faubourg, but refused to supply -provisions. The 29th January saw us at the populous and fertile clearing -of Usenye, where the mixed races lying between the Land of the Moon -eastward, and Uvinza westward, give way to pure Wavinza, who are -considered by travellers even more dangerous than their neighbours. - -Beyond Usenye we traversed a deep jungle where still lingered remains of -villages which had been plundered and burned down by the Wawende and the -Watuta, whose hills rose clearly defined on the right hand. Having -passed the night at Rukunda, or Lukunda, on the 31st January we sighted -the plain of the Malagarazi River. Northwards of the road ran the -stream, and the low level of the country adjoining it had converted the -bottoms into permanent beds of soft, deep, and slippery mire. The rest -of the march was the usual country--jungle, fields, and grasses--and -after a toilsome stretch, we unpacked at the settlement of Wanyika. - -At Wanyika we were delayed for a day by the necessity of settling -Kuhonga, or blackmail, with the envoys of Mzogera. This great man, the -principal Sultan of Uvinza, is also the Lord of the Malagarazi River. As -he can enforce his claims by forbidding the ferrymen to assist -strangers, he must be carefully humoured. He received about forty -cloths, white and blue, six Kitindi or coil bracelets, and ten Fundo (or -100 necklaces) of coral beads. It is equivalent in these lands to 50_l._ -in England. When all the items had been duly palavered over, we resumed -our march on the 2nd February. The road, following an incline towards -the valley of the river, in which bush and field alternated with shallow -pools, black mud, and putrid grass, led to Unyanguruwwe, a miserable -settlement, producing, however, millet in abundance, sweet potatoes, and -the finest manioc. On the 3rd February we set out betimes. Spanning -cultivation and undulating grassy ground, and passing over hill-opens to -avoid the deeper swamps, we debouched from a jungle upon the -river-plain, with the swift brown stream, then about fifty yards broad, -swirling through the tall wet grasses of its banks on our right hand, -hard by the road. Upon the off side a herd of elephants, forming Indian -file, slowly broke through the reed-fence in front of them: our purblind -eyes mistook them for buffaloes. Northwards lay an expanse of card-table -plain, over which the stream, when in flood, debords to the distance of -two miles, cutting it with deep creeks and inlets. The flat is bounded -in the far offing by a sinuous line of faint blue hills, the haunts of -the Watuta; whilst, westward and southward, rises the wall-shaped ridge, -stony and wooded, which buttresses the left bank of the river for some -days’ journey down the stream. We found lodgings for the night in a -little village, called from its district Ugaga; we obtained provisions, -and we lost no time in opening the question of ferryage. The Sultan -Mzogera had sold his permission to cross the river. The Mutware, or -Mutwale, the Lord of the Ferry, now required payment for his canoes. - -Whilst delayed at Ugaga by the scabrous question of how much was to be -extracted from me, I will enter into a few geographical details -concerning the Malagarazi River. - -The Malagarazi, corrupted by speculative geographers to Mdjigidgi,--the -uneuphonious terminology of the “Mombas Mission Map,”--to “Magrassie” -and to “Magozi,” has been wrongly represented to issue from the Sea of -Ujiji. According to all travellers in these regions, it arises in the -mountains of Urundi, at no great distance from the Kitangure, or River -of Karagwah; but whilst the latter, springing from the upper -counterslope, feeds the Nyanza or Northern Lake, the Malagarazi, rising -in the lower slope of the equatorial range, trends to the south-east, -till it becomes entangled in the decline of the Great Central African -Depression--the hydrographical basin first indicated in his Address of -1852 by Sir Roderick I. Murchison, President of the Royal Geographical -Society of London.[10] Thence it sweeps round the southern base of -Urundi, and, deflected westwards, it disembogues itself into the -Tanganyika. Its mouth is in the land of Ukaranga, and the long -promontory behind which it discharges its waters, is distinctly visible -from Kawele, the head-quarters of caravans in Ujiji. The Malagarazi is -not navigable; as in primary and transition countries generally, the bed -is broken by rapids. Beyond the ferry, the slope becomes more -pronounced, branch and channel-islets of sand and verdure divide the -stream, and as every village near the banks appears to possess one or -more canoes, it is probably unfordable. The main obstacle to crossing it -on foot, over the broken and shallower parts near the rock-bars, would -be the number and the daring of the crocodiles. - - [10] The following notice concerning a discovery which must ever be - remembered as a triumph of geological hypothesis, was kindly forwarded - to me by the discoverer:-- - - “My speculations as to the whole African interior being a vast watery - plateau-land of some elevation above the sea, but subtended on the - east and west by much higher grounds, were based on the following - data:-- - - “The discovery in the central portion of the Cape colony, by Mr. Bain, - of fossil remains in a lacustrine deposit of secondary age, and the - well-known existence on the coast of loftier mountains known to be of - a Palæozoic or primary epoch and circling round the younger deposits, - being followed by the exploration of the Ngami Lake, justified me in - believing that Africa had been raised from beneath the ocean at a very - early geological period; and that ever since that time the same - conditions had prevailed. I thence inferred that an interior network - of lakes and rivers would be found prolonged northwards from Lake - Ngami, though at that time no map was known to me showing the - existence of such central reservoirs. Looking to the west as well as - to the east, I saw no possibility of explaining how the great rivers - could escape from the central plateau-lands and enter the ocean except - through deep lateral gorges, formed at some ancient period of - elevation, when the lateral chains were subjected to transverse - fractures. Knowing that the Niger and the Zaire, or Congo, escaped by - such gorges on the west, I was confident that the same phenomenon must - occur upon the eastern coast, when properly examined. This hypothesis, - as sketched out in my ‘Presidential Address’ of 1852, was afterwards - received by Dr. Livingstone just as he was exploring the transverse - gorges by which the Zambesi escapes to the east, and the great - traveller has publicly expressed the surprise he then felt that his - discovery should have been thus previously suggested.” - -The Lord of the Ferry delayed us at Ugaga by removing the canoes till he -had extracted fourteen cloths and one coil-bracelet,--half his original -demand. Moreover, for each trip the ferryman received from one to five -khete of beads, according to the bulk, weight, and value of the freight. -He was as exorbitant when we returned; then he would not be satisfied -with less than seven cloths, a large jar of palm oil, and at least three -hundred khete. On the 4th February we crossed to Mpete, the district on -the right or off bank of the stream. After riding over the river plain, -which at that time, when the rains had not supersaturated the soil, was -hard and dry, we came upon the “Ghaut,” a muddy run or clearing in the -thicket of stiff grass which crossed the stream. There we found a scene -of confusion. The Arabs of Kazeh had described the canoes as fine -barges, capable of accommodating fifty or sixty passengers. I was not, -however, surprised to find wretched “baumrinden”--tree-rind--canoes, two -strips of “myombo” bark, from five to seven feet in length, sown -together like a doubled wedge with fibres of the same material. The keel -was sharp, the bow and stern were elevated, and the craft was prevented -from collapsing by cross-bars--rough sticks about eighteen inches long, -jammed ladder-wise between the sides. When high and dry upon the bank, -they look not unlike castaway shoes of an unusual size. We entered -“gingerly.” The craft is crankier than the Turkish caïque, and we held -on “like grim death” to the gunwale with wetted fingers. The weight of -two men causes these canoes to sink within three or four inches of -water-level. An extra sheet of stiff bark was placed as a seat in the -stern; but the interior was ankle-deep in water, and baling was -necessary after each trip. The ferryman, standing amidships or in the -fore, poled or paddled according to the depth of the stream. He managed -skilfully enough, and on the return-march I had reason to admire the -dexterity with which he threaded the narrow, grass-grown and winding -veins of deep water, that ramified from the main trunk over the swampy -and rushy plains on both sides. Our riding asses were thrown into the -river, and they swam across without accident. Much to my surprise, none -of the bales were lost or injured. The ferrymen showed decision in -maintaining, and ingenuity in increasing, their claims. On the -appearance of opposition they poled off to a distance, and squatted, -quietly awaiting the effect of their decisive manœuvre. When the waters -are out, it is not safe to step from the canoe before it arrives at its -destination. The boatman will attempt to land his passenger upon some -dry mound emerging from deep water, and will then demand a second fee -for salvage. - - -END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - LONDON - PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. - NEW-STREET SQUARE - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abad bin Sulayman, rest of the party at the house of, at Kazeh, i. - 323. - - Abdullah, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 136. - - Abdullah bin Nasib, of Zanzibar, his kindness, i. 270. - - Abdullah bin Jumah, and his flying caravan, i. 315. - - Abdullah bin Salim of Kazeh, his authority there, i. 329. - - Abdullah, son of Musa Mzuri, ii. 225, 226. - - Ablactation, period of, in East Africa, i. 117. - - Abrus precatorius used as an ornament in Karagwah, ii. 181. - - Adansonia digitata, or monkey-bread of East Africa, peculiarity of, - i. 47. - - Africa, Central, great depression of, i. 409; ii. 8. - - African proverbs, i. 131. - - Africans, a weak-brained people, i. 33. - - Africans, East, their character and religion, ii. 324. - - Albinos, frequency of, amongst the Wazaramo tribes, i. 109. - Description of them, 109. - - Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, calls on Capt. Burton, ii. 228. His - adventures, 228. - - Ammunition, danger of, in African travelling, i. 264. - - Androgyne, the, ii. 159. - - Animals, wild, of Uzaramo, i. 63. Of Dut’humi, 87. Of Zungomero, 95. - Of the Mrima, 103, 104. Of K’hutu, 160. Of the Usagara mountains, 162. - Of the plains beyond the Rufuta, 181, 183. Of Ugogi, 242. Of the road - to Ugogo, 247. In Ugogo, 300. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 15. Of Ujiji, 60. - - Antelopes in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. In the Rufuta plains, - 183. Of East Africa, 268, 269. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. Of Ugogo, - i. 300. - - Ant-hills of East Africa, i. 202, 203. In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. Clay of, - chewed in Unyamwezi, 28. - - Anthropophagi of Murivumba, ii. 114. - - Ants in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 82. Red, of the banks of - rivers in East Africa, 186. Maji m’oto, or “hot water” ants, 187. Near - the Marenga Mk’hali river, 201. Account of them, 202. Annoyance of, at - K’hok’ho, 276. Of Rubuga, 317. Of East Africa, 371. Of Unyamwezi, - ii. 19. Of Ujiji, 64. - - Apples’ wood, at Mb’hali, i. 401. - - Arab caravans, description of, in East Africa, i. 342. - - Arab proverbs, i. 50, 86, 133, 135. - - Arabs of the East coast of Africa, i. 30. The half-castes described, - 32. Those settled in Unyanyembe, 323. History and description of their - settlements, 327. Tents of, on their march, 353. - - Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198. - - Arak tree in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Archery in East Africa, ii. 301. - - Armanika, Sultan of Karagwah, account of, ii. 183. His government, - 183, 184. Besieged by his brother, ii. 224. - - Arms of the Wazaramo, i. 110. Of the Wadoe, 124. Of the Baloch - mercenaries, 133. Of the “Sons of Ramji,” 140. Required for the - expedition, 152. Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. Of the Wahehe, 240. - Of the Wagogo, 304. Of the Wahamba, 312. Of the porters of caravans, - 350. Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. Of the Wanzamwezi, 30. Of the Wajiji, 66. - Of the Wavinza, 75. Of the Watuta, 77. Of the people of Karagwah, 182. - - Army of Uganda, ii. 189. - - Artémise frigate, i. 1. - - Atmosphere, brilliancy of the, in Ugogo, i. 297. - - Asclepias in the Usagara mountains, i. 165. - - Ashmed bin Nuuman, the Wajhayn or “two faces,” i. 3. - - Assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of - East Africa generally, 301. - - Ass, the African, described, i. 85. Those of the expedition, 151. Loss - of, 180. Fresh asses purchased from a down caravan, 209. - - Asthma, or zik el nafas, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Atheism, aboriginal, ii. 342. - - - Bakera, village of, i. 92. - - Bakshshish, in the East, ii. 84, 85. The propriety of rewarding bad - conduct, 85. Influence of, ii. 172. - - Balochs, the, of Zanzibar, described, i. 14. Their knavery, 85. Their - behaviour on the march, 127. Sketch of their character, 132. Their - quarrels with the “Sons of Ramji,” 163. Their desertion and return, - 173. Their penitence, 177. Their character, 177, 178. Their discontent - and complaints about food, 212, 221. And proposed desertion, 273, 278. - Their bile cooled, 274. Their injury to the expedition, 319. Their - breakfast on the march, 345. Their manœuvres at Kazeh, 376. Their - desertion, ii. 111. Influenced by bakhshish, 217. Their quarrel with - the porters, 253. Doing “Zam,” ii. 276. Sent home, 277. - - Bana Dirungá, village of, i. 71. - - Banadir, Barr el, or harbour-land, geography of, i. 30. - - Bangwe, islet of, in Lake Tanganyika, ii. 53. Described, 99. - - Banyans, the, of the East Coast of Africa, i. 19. - - Baobab Tree of East Africa, i. 47. - - Barghash, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, a state prisoner at Bombay, i. 3. - - Barghumi, the, of East Africa, ii. 294. - - Bark-cloth, price of, at Uvira, ii. 121. - - Basket making in East Africa, ii. 316. - - Basts of East Africa, ii. 317. - - Battle-axes of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 23. Of the East Africans, 307. - - Bazar-gup, or tittle-tattle in the East, i. 12. - - Bdellium Tree, or Mukl, of Ugogo, i. 299. Uses of, among the Wagogo, - 300. - - Beads, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. Account of African - beads of commerce, 146. Currency at Msene, 398. Those most highly - valued in Ujiji, ii. 72. Bead trade of Zanzibar, 390. - - Bedding required for the expedition, i. 154. - - Beds and bedding of the East Africans, i. 370. - - Beef, roast, and plum-pudding at Msene, i. 400. - - Bee-hives, seen for the first time at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200. Their - shape, 200. Of Rubuga, 317. - - Beer in East Africa, ii. 285. Mode of making it, 286. - - Bees in K’hutu, i. 120. But no bee-hives, 120. Wild, attack the - caravan, i. 176, 248, 249. Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, 276. Of East - Africa, ii. 287. - - Beetles in houses at Ujiji, ii. 91, _note_. One in the ear of Captain - Speke, 91, _note_. - - Belok, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135. - - Bérard, M., his kindness, i. 22. - - Berberah, disaster at, referred to, i. 68. - - Bhang plant, the, in Zungomero, i. 95. Smoked throughout East Africa, - 96. Effects produced by, 96. Used in Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Billhooks carried by the Wasagara tribe, i. 238. - - Birds, mode of catching them, i. 160. Scarcity of, in East Africa, - 270. Of Ugogo, 300. Period of nidification and incubation of, ii. 13. - Of Unyamwezi, 16. Of Ujiji, 60. - - Births and deaths amongst the Wazaramo, customs at, i. 115, 116, 118, - 119. - - Bivouac, a pleasant, i. 245. - - Black Magic. See Uchawi. - - Blackmail of the Wazaramo, i. 70, 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. Of the - Wazegura, 125. At Ugogo, 252. Account of the blackmail of East Africa, - 253. At Kirufuru, 264. At Kanyenye, 265. In K’hok’ho, 274. At Mdaburu, - 279. At Wanyika, 407. At Ubwari island, ii. 114. - - Blood of cattle, drunk in East Africa, ii. 282. - - Boats of the Tanganyika Lake, described, ii. 94. - - Boatmen of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 101. - - Bomani, “the stockade,” village of, i. 47. Halt at, 47. Vegetation of, - 47, 48. Departure from, 51. - - Bombax, or silk cotton tree, of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Bonye fiumara, accident to a caravan in the, ii. 270. - - Books required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra tree, in the plains, i. 180. Toddy - drawn from, 181. - - Bos Caffer, or Mbogo, in the plains of East Africa, i. 181. Described, - 181. In Ugogo, 300. - - Botanical collection stolen, i. 319. Difficulty of taking care of the - collection on the upward march, 320. Destroyed by damp at Ujiji, - ii. 81. - - Boulders of granite on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 284. Picturesque effects - of the, 285, 286. - - Bows and arrows of the Wagogo, i. 504. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of - the East Africans, 301. Poisoned arrows, 305. - - Brab tree, or Ukhindu, of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Breakfast in the caravan described, i. 345. An Arab’s, at Kazeh, - ii. 167. - - Buffaloes on the road to Ugogo, i. 247. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. On the - Rusugi river, ii. 40. - - Bumbumu, Sultan, of the Wahehe, i. 239. - - Burial ceremonies of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 25. - - Burkene, route to, ii. 179. - - Burton, Captain, quits Zanzibar Island, i. 1. - The personnel and materiel of the expedition, i. 3, 10, 11. - Smallness of the grant allowed by government, i. 4, _note_. - The author’s proposal to the Royal Geographical Society, i. 5. - Anchors off Wale Point, i. 8. - His difficulties, i. 19. - His MS. lost, i. 21. - Melancholy parting with Col. Hamerton, i. 22. - Lands at Kaole, i. 22. - Melancholy reflections, i. 24. - Transit of the valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta rivers, i. 41. - The first departure, i. 43, 46. - Tents pitched at Bomani, i. 51. - Delay the second, i. 49. - Departure from Bomani, i. 51. - Arrives at the village of Mkwaju la Mvuani, i. 52. - The third departure, i. 53. - Halt at Nzasa, in Uzaramo, i. 54. - Start again, i. 57. - First dangerous station, i. 59. - Second one, i. 63. - Adventure at Makutaniro, i. 70. - Author attacked by fever, i. 71. - Third dangerous station, i. 73. - Encamps at Madege Madogo, i. 79. - And at Kidunda, i. 79. - Loses his elephant-gun, i. 80. - Arrives at a place of safety, i. 81. - Enters K’hutu, i. 82. - Has a hammam, i. 82. - Thoroughly prostrated, i. 84. - His troubles, i. 86. - Prepares a report for the Royal Geographical Society, i. 89. - Advances from Dut’humi, i. 91. - Halts at Zungomero, i. 127. - Leaves Zungomero, i. 158. - Arrives at Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161. - Recovery of health at, i. 161. - Leaves Mzizi Mdogo, i. 165. - Halts at Cha K’henge, i. 167. - Desertion of the Baloch, i. 173. - Their return, i. 174. - Halts at Muhama, i. 178. - Again attacked by fever, i. 179. - Resumes the march, i. 180. - Contrasts in the scenery, i. 184. - Fords the Mukondokwa river, i. 188. - Reaches Kadetamare, i. 189. - Loss of instruments, i. 189. - Halts at Muinyi, i. 193. - Resumes the journey, i. 194. - Halts at Ndábi, i. 196. - Resumes the march and rests at Rumuma, i. 198. - Abundance of its supplies, i. 198. - Reaches Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203. - Approaches the bandit Wahumba, i. 203. - Leaves Marenga Mk’hali, i. 204. - Halts at the basin of Inenge, i. 208. - Wholesome food obtained there, i. 208. - Exchange of civilities with a down caravan, i. 208. - Painful ascent of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 213. - Halt at the Great Rubeho, i. 215. - Ascent of the Little Rubeho, i. 215. - Descent of the counterslope of the Usagara mountains, i. 219. - First view of the Ugogo mountains, i. 220. - Halts at the third Rubeho, i. 221. - Marches on the banks of the Dungomaro, i. 222. - Reaches the plains of Ugogo, i. 223. - Losses during the descent, i. 224. - Halts at Ugogi, i. 241. - Engages the services of fifteen Wanyamwezi porters, i. 244. - Leaves Ugogi, i. 244. - The caravan dislodged by wild bees, i. 248. - Loses a valuable portmanteau, i. 249. - Halts on the road for the night, i. 250. - Leaves the jungle-kraal, i. 250. - Sights the Ziwa, or Pond, i. 251. - Provisions obtained there, i. 255. - Recovery of the lost portmanteau, i. 257. - Joins another up-caravan, i. 257, 258. - Enters Ugogo, i. 259. - Astonishment of the Wagogo, i. 263. - Delayed at Kifukuru for blackmail, i. 264. - Leaves Kifukuru, i. 265. - Accident in the jungle, i. 265. - Interview with Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 266. - Hurried march from Kanyenye, i. 271. - Arrives at Usek’he and K’hok’ho, i. 272. - Difficulties of blackmail at K’hok’ho, i. 274. - Departs from K’hok’ho, i. 275. - Desertion of fifteen porters, i. 275. - Trying march in the Mdáburu jungle, i. 277. - Reaches Uyanzi, i. 279. - Traverses the Fiery Field, i. 283. - Arrives at the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 285. - Losses on the march, i. 285. - Reaches Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 288. - And Kirurumo and Jiweni, i. 289. - Marches to Mgono T’hembo, i. 290. - Arrives at the Tura Nullah, i. 291. - And at the village of Tura, the frontier of Unyamwezi, i. 292, 313. - Proceeds into Unyamwezi, i. 314. - Halts at the Kwale nullah, i. 315. - Visited by Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, i. 315. - And by Sultan Maura, i. 316. - Reaches Ukona, i. 318. - Leaves Ukona and halts at Kigwa or Mkigwa, i. 319. - Enters the dangerous Kigwa forest, i. 319. - Loss of papers there, i. 319. - Reaches the rice-lands of the Unyamyembe district, i. 321. - Enters Kazeh in grand style, i. 322. - Hospitality of the Arabs there, i. 323. - Difficulties of the preparations for recommencing the journey, - i. 377. - Sickness of the servants, i. 379. - Author attacked by fever, i. 380. - Leaves Kazeh and proceeds to Zimbili, i. 386. - Proceeds and halts at Yombo, i. 386, 387. - Leaves Yombo and reaches Pano and Mfuto, i. 389. - Halts at Irora, i. 389. - Marches to Wilyankuru, i. 390. - Hospitality of Salim bin Said, i. 391. - And of Masid ibn Musallam el Wardi, at Kirira, i. 392. - Leaves Kirira, and marches to Msene, i. 395. - Delayed there, i. 399. - Marches to the village of Mb’hali, i. 401. - And to Sengati and the deadly Sorora, i. 401. - Desertions and dismissals at Sorora, i. 402. - Marches to Kajjanjeri, i. 403. - Detained there by dangerous illness, i. 403. - Proceeds and halts at Usagozi, i. 406. - Some of the party afflicted by ophthalmia, i. 406. - Quits Usagozi, and marches to Masenza, i. 406, 407. - Reaches the Mukozimo district, i. 407. - Spends a night at Rukunda, i. 407. - Sights the plain of the Malagarazi river, i. 407. - Halts at Wanyika, i. 407. - Settlement of blackmail at, i. 408. - Resumes the march, i. 408. - Arrives at the bank of the Malagarazi river, i. 408. - Crosses over to Mpete, i. 410. - Marches to Kinawani, ii. 35. - And to Jambeho, ii. 36. - Fords the Rusugi river, ii. 37. - Fresh desertions, ii. 38. - Halts on the Ungwwe river, ii. 40. - First view of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 42. - Arrives at Ukaranga, ii. 44. - And at Ujiji, ii. 46. - Visits the headman Kannena, ii. 81. - Incurs his animosity, ii. 82, 84. - Ill effects of the climate and food of Ujiji, ii. 85. - Captain Speke sent up the Lake, ii. 87. - Mode of spending the day at Ujiji, ii. 87. - Failure of Capt. Speke’s expedition, ii. 90. - The author prepares for a cruise, ii. 93. - The voyage, ii. 99. - Halts and encamps at Kigari, ii. 101. - Enters the region of Urundi, ii. 101. - Reaches and halts at Wafanya, ii. 106. - Sails for the island of Ubwari, ii. 112. - Anchors there, ii. 113. - Leaves there and arrives at Murivumba, ii. 114. - Reaches the southern frontier of Uvira, ii. 115. - Further progress stopped, ii. 117, 119. - Returns, ii. 121. - Storm on the Lake, ii. 123. - Passes the night at Wafanya, ii. 123. - A slave accidentally shot there, ii. 124. - Returns to Kawele, ii. 124. - Improvement in health, ii. 129. - The outfit reduced to a minimum, ii. 130. - Arrival of supplies, but inadequate, ii. 132. - Preparations for the return to Unyanyembe, ii. 155. - The departure, ii. 157. - The return-march, ii. 160. - Pitches tents at Uyonwa, ii. 161. - Desertions, ii. 161. - Returns to the ferry of the Malagarazi, ii. 164. - Marches back to Unyanyembe, ii. 165. - Halts at Yombo, ii. 166. - Re-enters Kazeh, ii. 167. - Sends his companion on an expedition to the north, ii. 173. - His mode of passing time at Kazeh, ii. 173, 198. - Preparations for journeying, ii. 200. - Shortness of funds, ii. 221. - Outfit for the return, ii. 229. - Departs from Kazeh, ii. 231. - Halts at Hanga, ii. 232. - Leaves Hanga, ii. 240. - Returns through Ugogo, ii. 244. - The letters with the official “wigging,” ii. 247. - Takes the Kiringawana route, ii. 249. - Halts at a den of thieves, ii. 252. - And at Maroro, ii. 255. - Marches to Kiperepeta, ii. 256. - Fords the Yovu, ii. 258. - Halts at Ruhembe rivulet, ii. 261. - And on the Makata plain, ii. 262. - Halts at Uziraha, ii. 263. - Returns to Zungomero, ii. 264. - Proposes a march to Kilwa, ii. 265. - Desertion of the porters, ii. 266. - Engages fresh ones, ii. 267. - Leaves Zungomero, and resumes the march, ii. 276. - Re-enters Uzaramo, ii. 277. - And Konduchi, ii. 278. - Sights the sea, ii. 278. - Sets out for Kilwa, ii. 372. - Returns to Zanzibar, ii. 379. - Leaves Zanzibar for Aden, ii. 384. - Returns to Europe, ii. 384. - - Butter in East Africa, ii. 284. - - - Cacti in the Usagara Mountains, i. 165. Of Mgunda M’Khali, 286. - - Calabash-tree of East Africa, described, i. 147. In the Usagara - mountains, i. 164, 229. Magnificence of, at Ugogo, 260. The only large - tree in Ugogo, 299. - - Camp furniture required for the expedition, i. 152. - - Cannibalism of the Wadoe tribe, i. 123. Of the people of Murivumba, - ii. 114. - - Cannabis Indica in Unyamwezi, i. 318. - - Canoes built of mvule trees, ii. 147. Mode of making them, 147. - - Canoes on the Malagarazi river, i. 409. On the “Ghaut,” 411. - - Capparis sodata, verdure of the, in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Carriage, cost of, in East Africa, ii. 414. - - Caravans of ivory, i. 17. Slave caravans, 17, 62. Mode of collecting a - caravan in East Africa, 143. Attacked by wild bees, 4, 176. And by - small-pox, 179. In East Africa, description of, 337. Porters, 337-339. - Seasons for travelling, 339. The three kinds of caravan, 341. That of - the Wanyamwezi, 341. Those made up by the Arab merchants, 342. Those - of the Wasawahili, &c., 344. Sketch of a day’s march of an East - African caravan, 344. Mode of forming a caravan, 348. Dress of the - caravan, 349. Ornaments and arms worn by the porters, 349. Recreations - of the march, 350. Meeting of two caravans, 351. Halt of a caravan, - 351. Lodgings on the march, 353. Cooking, 355, 356. Greediness of the - porters, 356, 357. Water, 359. Night, 359. Dances of the porters, 360. - Their caravan, 361, 362. Rate of caravan travelling, 362. Custom - respecting caravans in Central Africa, ii. 54. Those on the Uruwwa - route, 148. Accident to a, 270. - - Carissa Carandas, the Corinda bush in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Carpentering in East Africa, ii. 309. - - Carvings, rude, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. - - Castor plants of East Africa, i. 48. Mode of extracting the oil, 48. - - Cats, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Cattle, horned, of Ujiji, ii. 59. Of Karagwah, 181. - - Cattle trade of East Africa, ii. 413. - - Cereals of East Africa, ii. 414. - - Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, ii. 69. - - Ceremony and politeness, miseries of, in the East, i. 392. - - Cha K’henge, halt of the party at, i. 167. - - Chamærops humilis, or Nyara tree, of the Mrima, f. 48. - - Chawambi, Sultan of Unyoro, ii. 198. - - Chhaga, ii. 179. - - Chiefs of the Wazaramo, i. 113. - - Chikichi, or palm oil, trade in, at Wafanya, ii. 107. - - Childbirth, ceremonies of, in Unyamwezi ii. 23. Twins, 23. - - Children, mode of carrying, in Uzaramo, i. 110. - - Children, Wasagara mode of carrying, i. 237. - - Children, mode of carrying amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. - - Children, education of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24. - - Chomwi, or headman, of the Wamrima, i. 16. His privileges, 16, 17. - - Chumbi, isle of, i. 1. - - Chunga Mchwa, or ant, of the sweet red clay of East Africa, described, - i. 201, 202. - - Chungo-fundo or siyafu, or pismires of the river banks of East Africa, - described, i. 186. - - Chyámbo, the locale of the coast Arabs, i. 397. - - Circumcision, not practised by the Wazaramo, i. 108. Nor in the - Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Clay chewed, when tobacco fails, in Unyamwezi, ii. 28. - - Climate of-- - Bomani, i. 49. - Dut’humi, i. 89, 92. - East Africa, during the wet season, i. 379. - Inenge, i. 208. - Kajjanjeri, ii. 403. - Karagwah, ii. 180. - Kawele, ii. 130. - Kirira, i. 394. - Kuingani, i. 44. - Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203. - Mrima, i. 102, 104. - Msene, i. 400. - Mohama, i. 179. - Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161. - Rumuma, i. 199. - Sorora, i. 401. - Tanganyika Lake, i. 142. - Ugogo, i. 243, 259, 297. - Ujiji, ii. 81. - Unyamwezi, ii. 8-14. - Usagara, i. 221, 222, 231. - Wafanya, ii. 107. - Zungomero, i. 94, 127, 156, 161, 163. - - Cloth, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. As an article of - commerce, 148. - - Clothing required for the expedition, i. 154. Of travellers in East - Africa, ii. 201. - - Clouds in Unyamwezi, ii. 12. - - Cockroaches in houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Cocoa-nut, use of the, in East Africa, i. 36. - - Cocoa-tree, its limits inland, i. 160. - - Coffee, wild, or mwami, of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, 187. - - Commando, pitiable scene presented after one, i. 185. - - Commerce of the Mrima, i. 39. Of Zungomero, 95. Of Uzaramo, 119. Of - Ugogo, 308. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Of the Nyanza Lake, 215. - African, 224. Of Ubena, 270. Of Uvira, ii. 120. Of East Africa, 387. - - Conversation, specimen of, in East Africa, ii. 243, 244. - - Copal tree, or Msandarusi, of Uzaramo, i. 63. - - Copal trade of East Africa, ii. 403. - - Copper in Katata, ii. 148. In East Africa, 312. - - Cotton in Unyamwezi, i. 318. In Ujiji, i. 57. In East Africa, 417. - - Cowhage on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166. - - Cowries of Karagwah, ii. 185. Of East Africa, 416. - - Crickets of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. House, in East Africa, - i. 370. - - Crocodiles of the Kingani river, i. 56. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. In the - Sea of Ujiji, 60. Of the Ruche River, 158. - - Crops of the Mrima, i. 102, _et seq_. - - Cucumbers at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. Wild, of Unyanyembe, ii. 285. - - Cultivation in the Mukondokwa hills, i. 196, 197. In the Usagara - mountains, 229. - - Currency of East Africa, stock may be recruited at Kazeh, i. 334. Of - Msene, i. 398. Of Ujiji, ii. 73. Of Karagwah, 185. Of Ubena, 270. - Cynhyænas of Ugogo, i. 302. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Cynocephalus, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. The terror of the country, - 15. - - - Dancing of the Wazaramo women, i. 55. African, described, 360; - ii. 291, 298. - - Darwayash, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137. - - “Dash,” i. 58. _See_ Blackmail. - - Datura plant of Zungomero, i. 95. Smoked in East Africa, 96. In - Unyamwezi, 318. - - Day, an African’s mode of passing the, ii. 289, 290. - - Death, African fear of, ii. 331. - - Defences of the Wazaramo, i. 111, 117. - - Dege la Mhora, “the large jungle bird,” village of, i. 72. Fate of M. - Maizan at, 73. - - Det’he, or Kidete of East Africa, ii. 293. - - Devil’s trees of East Africa, ii. 353. - - Dialects of the Wazaramo, i. 107. The Wagogo, 306. The Wahumba, 311. - The Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. The Wakimbu, 20. The Wanyamwezi, 30. - - Diseases of the maritime region of East Africa, i. 105. Of the people - of Usagara, 233. Of Ugogo, 299. Of caravans in East Africa, 342. Of - Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13, 14. Of East Africa, 318. Remedies, 321. - Mystical remedies, 352, 353. - - Dishdasheh, El, or turban of the coast Arabs, i. 32. - - Divorce amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. Amongst the East Africans - generally, ii. 333. - - Drawing materials required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Dress, articles of, of the East Africans, i. 148. Of the Wamrima, 33, - 34. Of the Wazaramo, 109. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the Wasagara, 253. - Of the Wahete, 239. Of the Wagogo, 305. Of the Wahumba, 312. Of the - Wakalaganza, 406. Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. Of the Wanyamwezi, 21. Of - the Wajiji, 64. Of the Warundi, 146. Of the Wavinza, 75. Of the - Watuta, 77. Of the Wabuta, 78. Of the people of Karagwah, 182. Of the - Wahinda, 220. Of the Warori, 271. - - Dodges of the ferrymen, ii. 164, 165. - - Dragon-flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Drinking-bouts in East Africa, ii. 295, 335. - - Drinking-cups in East Africa, ii. 295. - - Drums and drumming of East Africa, ii. 295. - - Drunkenness of the Wazaramo, i. 118. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. And - debauchery of the people of Msene, 398. Prevalence of, near the Lake - Tanganyika, ii. 59. Of the Wajiji, 69. - - Dogs, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 16. Pariah, in the villages of Ujiji, - 60. Rarely heard to bark, 60. - - Dolicos pruriens on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166. - - Donkey-men of the expedition, i. 143. - - Dub-grass in the Usagara mountains, i. 171. - - Dunda, or “the Hill,” district of, i. 54. - - Dunda Nguru, or “Seer fish-bill” i. 69. - - Dungomaro, or Mandama, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. - Description of the bed of the, 223. - - Dut’humi, mountain crags of, i. 65, 83, 86. Illness of the chiefs of - the expedition at, 84. Description of the plains of, 86. - - - Eagles, fish, of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Ear-lobes distended by the Wasagara, i. 235. And by the Wahehe, 239. - By the Wagogo, 304. And by the Wahumba, 312. Enlarged by the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 21. - - Earth-fruit of India, i. 198. - - Earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Earwigs in East African houses, i. 370. - - Ebb and flow of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 143. Causes of, 143, 144. - - Education of children in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24. - - Eels of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Eggs not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Nor by the people of Ujiji, - 59. - - Elæis Guiniensis, or Mehikichi tree, in Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Elephants at Dut’humi, i. 87. In Ugogi, 242. At Ziwa, or the Pond, - 251. On the road to Ugogo, 247. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 287, 289. In - Ugogo, 300. On the banks of the Malagarazi river, 408. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. Near the sea of Ujiji, 60. In East Africa, 297. - - Elephant hunting in East Africa, ii. 298. - - English, the, bow regarded in Africa, i. 31. - - Erhardt, M., his proposed expedition to East Africa, i. 3. - - Ethnology of East Africa, i. 106. Of the second region, 225, _et seq._ - - Euphorbiæ at Mb’hali, i. 401. In Ugogo, 300. In the Usagara mountains, - i. 165. - - Evil eye unknown to the Wazaramo, i. 116. - - Exorcism in East Africa, ii. 352. - - - Falsehood of the coast clans of East Africa, i. 37. General in East - Africa, ii. 328. - - Faraj, sketch of him and his wife, the lady Halimah, i. 129. - - Fauna of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Fetiss-huts of the Wazaramo described, i. 57. Of East Africa, 369; - ii. 346. - - Fetissism of East Africa, ii. 341, _et seq._ - - Fever, marsh, cure in Central Asia for, i. 82. The author prostrated - by, 84. Delirium of, 84. Of East Africa generally described, 105. The - author and his companion again attacked by, at Muhama, 179. Common in - the Usagara mountains, 233. Seasoning fever of East Africa, generally, - 379. Miasmatic, described, 403. Low type, 406. Seasoning fever at - Unyamwezi described, ii. 14. - - Fire-arms and Gunpowder in East Africa, ii. 308. - - Fires in Africa, ii. 259. - - Fish of the Kingani river, i. 56. Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 59. - Varieties of, 67. Narcotised in Uzaramo, 67. At Wafanya, 108. - Considered as an article of diet in East Africa, 280. - - Fishing in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 66. - - Fisi, or cynhyæna, of Uzaramo, i. 63. The scavenger of the country, - i. 64. - - Flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Fatal bite of one in, 19. - - Flowers of Usagara, i. 328. At Msene, 397. - - Fly, a stinging, the tzetze, i. 187. - - Fog-rainbow in the Usagara mountains, i. 222. - - Food of the Wamrima, i. 35. Of the Wazaramo, 56. Of the people of - Zungomero, 95, 96, 97. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the expedition, 151, - 198. Of the people of Marenga Mk’hali, 201. Of the Wagogo, 310, 311. - Of Rubuga, 317. Of Kazeh, 329. Of Arabs of, 331-334. Of Wilyanhuru, - 392-394. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 28, 29. Of Ujiji, 70, 88. Of Karagwah, 180, - 181. Of Uganda, 196, 197. Of the Warori tribe, 273. East Africa - generally, 280. - - Fords in East Africa, i. 336. - - Fowls not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Nor by the people of Ujiji, - 59. - - Frankincense of Ugogo, i. 299. - - Frogs in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. Night concerts of, 17. Of the sea of - Ujiji, 61. - - Frost, Mr., of the Zanzibar consulate, i. 3, 21. - - Fruits of East Africa, i. 48, 201. Of Usagara, 228. Of Yombo, 337. Of - Mb’hali, 401. Of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Fundi, or itinerant slave-artizans of Unyanyembe, i. 328. Caravans of - the, 344. - - Fundikira, Sultan of Unyamwezi, notice of him, ii. 31. - - Fundikira, Sultan of Ititenza, i. 326. - - Funerals of the Wazaramo, i. 119. Of the Wadoe, 124. - - Funza, brother of Sultan Matanza of Msene, i. 396. - - Furniture of East African houses, i. 371. Kitanda, or bedstead, 371. - Bedding, 371. Of the houses of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. - - - Gadflies, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Gaetano, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. Taken - ill, 380. His epileptic fits at Msene, 395, 399. - - Gama river, i. 123. - - Gambling in East Africa, ii. 279. - - Game in Uzaramo, i. 59, 71. In the Doab of the Mgeta river, 81. In - K’huta, 120. In the plains between the Rufuta and the Mukondokwa - mountains, 181. In Ugogi, 242. At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. At Kanyenye, - 268. Scarcity of, in East Africa generally, 268. - - Ganza Mikono, sultan of Usek’he, i. 272. - - Geography of the second region, i. 225, _et seq_. Of Ugogo, 295. Arab - oral, ii. 144-154. - - Geology of the maritime region of East Africa, i. 102. Of the Usagara - mountains, 227. Of the road to Ugogo, 247. Of Mgunda Mk’hali, - i. 282-284. Of Ugogo, i. 295. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Ghost-faith of the Africans, ii. 344. - - Gingerbread tree, described, i. 47. - - Ginyindo, march to, ii. 253. Quarrel of the Baloch and porters at, - 253. - - Giraffes in Ugogi, i. 242. Native names of the, 242, 243. Use made of - them, 243. At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Girls of the Wanyamwezi, strange custom of the, ii. 24. - - Gnus in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. At Dut’humi, 87. - - Goats of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - Goma pass, the, i. 168, 170. - - Gombe, mud-fish in the nullah of, i. 334. - - Gombe Nullah, i. 395, 397, 401, 403, ii. 8. - - Goose, ruddy, Egyptian, i. 317. - - Gourd, the, a musical instrument in East Africa, ii. 294. - - Gourds of the Myombo tree in Usagara, i. 229. - - Government of the Wazaramo, i. 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 120, 121. Of the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 31. Of the Wajiji, 71. Of the northern kingdoms of - Africa, 174. Mode of, in Uganda, 192. Forms of, in East Africa, 360. - - Grain, mode of grinding, in East Africa, i. 111, 372. That of Msene, - 397, 398. Of Ujiji, ii. 57. - - Grapes, wild, seen for the first time, ii. 41. - - Grasses of the swamps and marshes of the Mrima, i. 103, 104. The dub - of the Usagara mountains, 171. - - Graveyards, absence of, in East Africa, ii. 25. - - Ground-fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Ground-nut oil in East Africa, ii. 285. - - Grouse, sand, at Ziwa, i. 251. - - Guest welcome, or hishmat l’il gharib, of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 329. - - Gugu-mbua, or wild sugar-cane, i. 71. - - Guinea-fowls in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. Of the Rufuta - plains, 183. Of Ugogi, 242. - - Guinea-palm of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Gul Mohammed, a Baloch of the party, sketch of him, i. 139. His - conversation with Muzungu Mbaya, ii. 244. - - Gulls, sea, of the sea of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Gungu, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53. Its former and present chiefs, - 53. Plundered by the Watuta tribe, 76. - - - Hail-storms in Unyamwezi, ii. 10. - - Hair, mode of dressing the, amongst the Wazaramo, i. 108. And the - Wak’hutu, 120. Wasagara fashions of dressing the, 234. Wagogo mode, - 304. Amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. Wabuha mode of dressing the, 78. - And in Uganda, 189. - - Halimah, the lady, sketch of, i. 129. Taken ill, 200. Returns home, - ii. 277. - - Hamdan, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, i. 2. - - Hamerton, Lieut.-Col., his friendship with the late Sultan of - Zanzibar, i. 2. Interest taken by him in the expedition, 3. His - objections to an expedition into the interior _viâ_ Kilwa, 5. His - death, 66. His character, 69. - - Hamid bin Salim, his journey to the Wahumba tribe, i. 311. - - Hammals of the Wanyamwezi, character of the, ii. 162. - - Hammam, or primitive form of the lamp-bath, i. 82. - - Hanga, journey to, ii. 232. Difficulties with the porters there, 232. - - Hartebeest in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. - - Hawks of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Hembe, or “the wild buffalo’s horn,” his village, i. 72. - - Hides, African mode of dressing, i. 236. - - Hilal bin Nasur, his information respecting the southern provinces, - ii. 228. - - Hippopotami on the east coast of Africa, i. 9, 12, 24, 56. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 15. In the Ruche river, 52, 158. In the sea of Ujiji, - 60. - - Hishmat l’il gharib, or guest welcome of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 323, - 329. - - Hogs of Ugogo, i. 300. - - Home, African attachment for, ii. 333. - - Honey in Ujiji, ii. 59. Abundance of, in East Africa, 287. Two kinds - of, 288. - - Houses of Kuingani, i. 43. The wayside, or kraals, 53, 181, 230. Of - the Wak’hutu, 97, 121. Of the Wazaramo, 110. Of the Wagogo, 306. Of - the Arabs in Unyanyembe, 328, 329. Of stone, ignored by Inner Africa, - 93. Of the country beyond Marenga Mk’hali, called “Tembe,” 207. The - Tembe of the Wahete, 240. The Khambi or, Kraal, 354. The Tembe of the - Usagara, 366. Houses of East Africa generally described, 364, ii. 334. - Pests of the houses, i. 370. Furniture, 371. Of the Wanyamwezi, - ii. 26. Of Karagwah, 182, 183. - - Hullak, the buffoon, i. 46. - - Hunting season in East Africa, ii. 296. - - Hyænas in Ugogo, i. 276. In Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Hyderabad, story of the police officer of, i. 217. - - - Ibanda, second sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214. - - Id, son of Muallim Salim, his civility at Msene, i. 399. - - Iguanas of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Ihara or Kwihara, physical features of the plain of, i. 326. - - Ikuka of Uhehe, march to, ii. 252. - - Illness of the whole party at Ujiji, ii. 85, 86. - - Immigration in Central Africa, ii. 19. - - Imports and exports in East Africa, ii. 387. - - Indian Ocean, evening on the, i. 1. View of the Mrima from the, 8. - - Industry, commercial, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Inenge, basin of, i. 208. Halt at the, 208. - - Influenza, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Influenza, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Inhospitality of Africans, ii. 131, 327. - - Inhumanity of the Africans, ii. 329. - - Insects in East Africa, i. 186, 187, 201, 202. In houses in East - Africa, 370. In Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Instruments required for the expedition, i. 153. Breakage of, on the - road, 169. Accidents to which they are liable in East African travels, - 189, 191. - - Intellect of the East African, ii. 337. - - Iron in Karagwah, ii. 185. In Urori, 27. And in Ubena, 27. Of East - Africa generally, 311. - - Ironga, sultan of U’ungu, defeats the Warori, ii. 75. - - Ironware of Uvira, ii. 121. - - Irora, village of, i. 389. Halt at, 389. Sultan of, 389. Return to, - ii. 166. - - Irrigation, artificial, in K’hutu, i. 86. - - Isa bin Hijji, the Arab merchant, exchange of civilities with, i. 208, - 211. Places a tembe at Kazeh at the disposal of the party, 323. - - Isa bin Hosayn, the favourite of the Sultan of Uganda, ii. 193. - - Ismail, the Baloch, illness of, i. 381. - - Ititenya, settlement of, i. 326. - - Ivory, caravan of, i. 17. Frauds perpetrated on the owners of tusks, - 17. Mode of buying and selling in East Africa, 39. Touters of - Zungomero, 97. Mode of carrying large tusks of, 341, 348. Price of, - at Uvira, ii. 120, 121. Ivory of Ubena, 270. Trade in Ivory, 408. - - Iwanza, or public-houses, in Unyamwezi, ii. 1, 27. Described, 27, 279, - 285. - - Iwemba, province of, ii. 153. - - - Jackal, silver, of Ugogi, i. 242. - - Jambeho, arrival of the party at the settlements of, ii. 36. - Cultivation of, 36. Scarcity of food in, 36. Revisited, 163. - - Jami of Harar, Shaykh, of the Somal, i. 33. - - Jamshid, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, i. 2. - - Jasmine, the, in Usagara, i. 228. - - Jealousy of the Wazaramo, i. 61. - - Jelai, Seedy, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137. - - Jezirah, island of, ii. 212. - - Jiwe la Mkoa, or the round rock, arrival of the party at, i. 286. - Description of it, 287; ii. 242. Halt at, 242. - - Jiweni, arrival of the expedition at, i. 289. Water at, 289. - - Jongo, or millepedes, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Jua, Dar el, or home of hunger, i. 69. - - Juma Mfumbi, Diwan of Saadani, his exaction of tribute from the Wadoe, - i. 123. - - Jungle, insect pests of the, i. 186. Fire in the jungle in summer, - ii. 163. - - Jungle-thorn, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246. Near Kanyenye, 271. - - - Kadetamare, arrival of the party at, i. 189. Loss of instruments at, - 189, 190. - - Kaffirs of the Cape, date of their migration to the banks of the Kei, - ii. 5. - - Kafuro, district of, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Kajjanjeri, village of, arrival of the party at, i. 403. Deadly - climate of, 403. - - Kannena, headman of Kawele, visit to, ii. 81. Description of him, 81. - His mode of opening trade, 82. His ill-will, 83, 84. Agrees to take - the party to the northern extremity of the lake, 93. His surly and - drunken conduct, 97. Starts on the voyage, 98. His covetousness, 109. - His extravagance, 120. His drunkenness and fate, 156. - - Kanoni, sultan of the Wahha tribe, ii. 79. - - Kanoni, minor chief of Wafanya, visit from, ii. 107. His blackmail, - 107. Outrage committed by his people, 124. - - Kanyenye, country of, described, i. 265. Blackmail at, 265. Sultan - Magomba of, 265. - - Kaole, settlement of, described, i. 12, 13. The landing place of the - expedition, 22. - - Karagwah, kingdom of, ii. 177. Extent of, 177. Boundaries of, 178. - Climate of, 180. People of, 181. Dress of, 182. Weapons of, 182. - Houses of, 182. Sultan of, 183. Government of, 183. - - Karagwah, mountains of, ii. 48, 144, 177. - - Kariba, river, ii. 146. - - Karindira, river, ii. 146. - - Karungu, province of, ii. 149. - - Kasangare, a Mvinza sultan, his subjects, i. 328. - - Kaskazi, or N. E. monsoon, i. 83. - - Kata, or sand-grouse, at Ziwa, i. 251. - - Katata, or Katanga, copper in, ii. 148. - - Katonga, river, ii. 187. - - Kawele, principal village of Ujiji, ii. 53. Attacked by the Watuta - tribe, ii. 76. Return of the expedition to, 126. - - Kaya, or fenced hamlets, i. 407. - - Kazeh, arrival at, i. 321, 322. Abdullah bin Salih’s caravan plundered - at, 321. Hospitality of the Arabs there, 323. Revisited, ii. 167. - - Kazembe, sultan of Usenda, ii. 148. Account of him, 148. - - Khalfan bin Muallim Salim, commands an up caravan, i. 179. His caravan - attacked by small-pox, 179, 201. His falsehoods, 179. Spreads - malevolent reports at Ugogo, 262. - - Khalfan bin Khamis, his penny wise economy, i. 288. Bids adieu to the - caravan, 291. Overtaken half-way to Unyanyembe, 221. His civility at - Msene, 399. - - Khambi, or substantial kraals, of the wayside described, i. 53, 134. - - Khamisi, Muinyi, and the lost furniture, ii. 168. - - K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, dangers of, i. 272, 274. Its tyrant sultan, 274. - Insect annoyances at, 276. - - Khudabakhsh, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 138. His threats to murder - the author, 174. His illness in the Windy Pass, 214. His conduct at - Wafanya, ii. 110. Reaches Kawele by land, 111. - - K’hutu, expedition enters the country of, i. 86. Irrigation in, 86. - Hideous and grotesque vegetation of, 91. Climate of, 92. Salt-pits of, - 92. Country of, described, 119. Roads in, 335. Return to, ii. 264. - Desolation of, 264. - - K’hutu, river i. 86. - - Kibaiba river, ii. 146. - - Kibuga, in Uganda, distance from the Kitangure river to, ii. 186. Road - to, 186, 187. Described, 188. - - Kibuya, sultan of Mdabura, blackmail of, i. 279. Description of him, - 279. - - Kichyoma-chyoma, “the little irons,” Captain Speke afflicted with, - ii. 234. The disease described, 320. - - Kidogo, Muinyi, sketch of him, i. 140. His hatred of Said bin Salim, - 164. His advice to the party at Marenga Mk’hali, 203. His words of - wisdom on the road to Ugogo, 250. His management, 254. His quarrel - with Said bin Salim, 255. Makes oath at Kanyenye, that the white man - would not smite the land, 267. Loses his heart to a slave girl, 314. - His demands at Kazeh, 377. Dismissed at Sorora, 402. Flogs Sangora, - 403. Sent home, ii. 277. - - Kidunda, or the “little hill,” camping ground of, i. 79. Scenery of, - 79. - - Kifukuru, delay of the caravan at, i. 264. Question of blackmail at, - 264. Sultan of, 264. - - Kigari, on the Tanganyika Lake, halt of the party at, ii. 101. - - Kigwa, or Mkigwa, halt of the caravan at, i. 319. The ill-omened - forest of, 319. Sultan Manwa, 319. - - Kikoboga, basin of, traversed, ii. 262. - - Kikoboga river, ii. 263. - - Kilwa, dangers of, as an ingress point, i. 4, 5. - - Kimanu, the sultan of Ubena, ii. 270. - - Kinanda, or harp, of East Africa, ii. 298. - - Kinawani, village of, arrival of the caravan at, ii. 35. - - Kindunda, “the hillock,” i. 64. - - Kinganguku, march to, ii. 251. - - Kingani river described, i. 56. Valley of the, 56. Hippopotami and - crocodiles of the, 56. Fish of the, 56. Its malarious plain, 69. Rise - of the, 87. - - Kingfishers on the lake of Tanganyika, ii. 61. - - Kipango, or tzetze fly, of East Africa, i. 187. - - Kiperepeta, march to, ii. 256. - - Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous station in Uzaramo, i. 59. - - Kirangozi, guide or guardian, carried by mothers in Uzaramo, i. 116. - - Kirangozi, or guide of the caravan, his wrath, i. 221. Description of - one, 346. Meeting of two, 351. His treatment of his slave girl, - ii. 161. His fear of travelling northward, 172. - - Kiringawana mountains, i. 233. - - Kiringawana route in the Usagara mountains described, ii. 249. - - Kiringawana, sultan, ii. 258. - - Kirira, halt of the party at, i. 392. Hospitality of an Arab merchant - at, 392-394. Climate of, 394. - - Kiruru, or “palm leaves,” village of, i. 82. - - Kirurumo, on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 289. Water obtained at, 289. - - Kisanga, basin of, described, ii. 257. - - Kisabengo, the chief headman of Inland Magogoni, i. 88. Account of his - depredations, 88. - - Kisawahili language, remarks on the, i. 15, _note_; ii. 198. - - Kisesa, sultan, his blackmail, ii. 114. - - Kitambi, sultan of Uyuwwi, recovers part of the stolen papers, i. 320. - - Kitangure, or river of Karagwah, i. 409; ii. 144, 177, 186. - - Kiti, or stool, of East Africa, i. 373. - - Kittara, in Kingoro, road to, ii. 187. Wild coffee of, 187. - - Kivira river, ii. 197. - - Kiyombo, sultan of Urawwa, ii. 147. - - Kizaya, the P’hazi, i. 54. Accompanies the expedition a part of their - way, 55. - - Knobkerries of Africa, ii. 306. - - Kombe la Simba, the P’hazi, i. 54. - - Konduchi, march to, ii. 274. Revisited, 276. - - Koodoo, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Koodoo horn, the bugle of East Africa, i. 203. - - Kraals of thorn, in the Usagara mountains, i. 230. Of East Africa, - 354. - - Krapf, Dr., result of his mission, i. 6. His information, 7. His - etymological errors, 36, _note_. - - Kuhonga, or blackmail, at Ugogo, i. 252. Account of the blackmail of - East Africa, 253. - - Kuingani, “the cocoa-nut plantation near the sea,” i. 42. Described, - 43. Houses of, 43. Climate of, 44. - - Kumbeni, isles of, i. 1. - - Kuryamavenge river, ii. 146. - - Kwale, halt at the nullah of, i. 315. - - Kwihanga, village of, described, i. 396. - - - Ladha Damha, pushes the expedition forward, i. 11. His conversation - with Ramji, 23. - - Lakes,--Nyanza, or Ukerewe, i. 311, 409, ii. 175, 176, 179, 195. - Tanganyika, ii. 42, _et seq._; 134, _et seq._ Mukiziwa, ii. 147. - - Lakit, Arab law of, i. 258. - - Lamp-bath of Central Asia, i. 82. - - Land-crabs in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. - - Language of the Wagogo, i. 306. Of the Wahumba, 311. Of the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. Of the Wakimbu, 20. Of the Wanyamwezi, 30. - Specimens of the various dialects collected, 198. Of the East - Africans, 336. - - Leeches in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Leopards in Ugogo, i. 302. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Leucæthiops amongst the Wazaramo, i. 109. - - Libellulæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Lions in Uzaramo, i. 63. Signs of, on the road, 172. In Ugogo, 300, - 301. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Lizards in the houses in East Africa, i. 371. - - Locusts, or nzige, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Varieties of, 18. - Some considered edible, 18. - - Lodgings on the march in East Africa, i. 353. In Ugogo, 354. In - Unyamwezi, 354. In Uvinza, 354. At Ujiji, 351. - - Looms in Unyamwezi, i. 318; ii. 1. - - Lues in East Africa, ii. 321. - - Lunar Mountains, ii. 48, 144. - - Lurinda, chief of Gungu, ii. 53. Supplies a boat on the Tanganyika - lake, 87. Enters into brotherhood with Said bin Salim, ii. 125. - - Lying, habit of, of the African, ii. 328. - - - Mabruki, Muinyi, henchman in the expedition, sketch of the character - of, i. 130. His slave boy, ii. 162. His bad behaviour, 173. - - Mabruki Pass, descent of the, ii. 263. - - Mabunguru fiumara, i. 283. Shell-fish and Silurus of the, 284. Arrival - of the party at the, 285. - - Macaulay, Lord, quoted, i. 393. - - Machunda, chief sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214. - - Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” district of, i. 79. - - Madege Mkuba, “the great birds,” district of, i. 79. - - Magic, black, or Ucháwi, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113, 265. - Mode of proceeding for ascertaining the existence of, ii. 32. _See_ - Mganga. - - Magogoni, inland, country of, i. 87. - - Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 265. Blackmail levied by, 265. - Interview with him and his court, 266. Description of him, 266. - - Magugi, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Maizan, M., his death, i. 6. Sketch of his career, 73. - - Maji m’ote, or “hot water” ant, of East Africa, i. 187. - - Maji ya W’heta, or jetting water, the thermal spring of, i. 159. - Return to, ii. 264. - - Majid, Sayyid, sultan of Zanzibar, i. 2. Gives letters of introduction - to the author, 3. - - Makata tank, i. 181. Forded by the expedition, 181. Return to, ii. - 262. - - Makata plain, march over the, ii. 261. - - Makimoni, on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 126. - - Makutaniro, adventures at, i. 69. - - Malagarazi river, i. 334, 337. ii. 36, 39, 47, 49. First sighted by - the party, 407. Described, 408, 409. Courses of the, 409. Crossed, - 410. Return of the party to the, 164. - - Mallok, the Jemadar, sketch of his character and personal appearance, - i. 133. His desertion, and return, 173. Becomes troublesome, 381, 382. - His refusal to go northwards, ii. 172. Influence of bakhshish, 172. - Sent home, ii. 277. - - Mamaletua, on the Tanganyika lake, halt of the party at, ii. 115. - Civility of the people of, 115. - - M’ana Miaha, sultan of K’hok’ho, i. 272. Description of him, 274. - His extortionate blackmail, 274. - - Mananzi, or pine-apple, of East Africa, i. 66. - - Manda, the petty chief at Dut’humi, i. 89. Expedition sent against - him, 89. - - Mandama, or Dungomaro, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. - Description of the bed of the, 223. - - Mangrove forest on the east coast of Africa, i. 9. Of the Uzaramo, 62. - - Manners and customs of the Wamrima, i. 35, 37. Of the Wasawahili, 37. - Of the Wazaramo, 108 _et seq._ Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the Wadoe, - 124. Of the Wasagara, 235. Of the Wagogo, 309, 310. Of the Wahumba, - 312. Of the Wanyamwesi, ii. 23. Of the Wambozwa, 152. - - Mansanza, sultan of Msene, i. 396. His hospital, 396. His firm rule, - 396. His wives, 396, 399. His visits to the author, 399. - - Manufactures of Msene, i. 398. - - Manyora, fiumara of, i. 80. - - Manwa, Sultan of Kigwa, his murders and robberies, i. 319. His - adviser, Mansur, 319. - - Maraim, Abd, or Washhenzi, the, i. 30. - - Mariki, sultan of Uyonwa, ii. 78. - - Marema, sultan, at the Ziwa, i. 254. - - Marenga Mk’hali, or “brackish water,” river, i. 200, 201, 259. Climate - of, 203. Upper, water of the, 247, 271. - - Maroro, basin of, its fertility, ii. 254. The place described, 255. - - Maroro river, i. 231. - - Marriage amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. In Unyamwezi, ii. 24. In East - Africa generally, 332. - - Marsh fever, i. 82, 84. Delirium of, 84. - - Martins in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. In Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - “Marts,” custom of, in South Africa, ii. 54. - - Marungu, land of, ii. 149. Provinces of, 149. Roads in, 149. - Description of the country, 150. History of an Arab caravan in, 151. - People of, 152. - - Maruta, sultan of Uvira, ii. 116. Visit from his sons, 117. - Description of them, 117. His blackmail, 120. - - Masenza, arrival of the party at the village of, i. 406, 407. - - Masika, or rainy season, in the second region, i. 231, 232. Of East - Africa, 378. - - Mason-wasps of the houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, sent to Msimbira to recover the stolen - papers, i. 325. His hospitality, 392. - - Masui, village of, ii. 229, 231. - - Masury, M. Sam., his kindness to the author, i. 22. - - Mat-weaving in East Africa, ii. 316. - - Maunga Tafuna, province of, ii. 153. - - Maura, or Maula, a sultan of the Wanyamwezi, i. 316. Visits the - caravan, 316. His hospitality, 316. Description of him, 316. - - Mauta, Wady el, or Valley of Death, i. 69. - - Mawa, or plantain wine, ii. 180, 197. Mode of making, 287. - - Mawiti, colony of Arabs at, i. 326. - - Mazinga, or cannons, bee-hives so called in the interior, i. 200. - Described, 200. - - Mazita, account of, ii. 212. - - Mazungera, P’hazi of Dege la Mhora, i. 75. Murders his guest, M. - Maizan, 75, 76. Haunted by the P’hepo, or spirit of his guest, 76. - - Mbarika tree, or Palma Christi, of East Africa, i. 48. - - Mbega, or tippet-monkey, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Mb’hali, village of, described, i. 401. - - Mbembu, a kind of medlar, in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Mbogo, or Bos Caffer, in the plains of East Africa, i. 181. Described, - 181. In Ugogo, 300. On the Rusugi river, ii. 40. - - Mboni, son of Ramji, carries off a slave girl, i. 290. - - Mbono tree of East Africa, i. 48. - - Mbugani, “in the wild,” settlement of, described, i. 397. - - Mbugu, or tree-bark, used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. Mode of - preparing it, 64. - - Mbumi, the deserted village, i. 185. - - Mbungo-bungo tree, a kind of nux vomica, i. 48. - - Mbuyu, or calabash tree, of East Africa, described, i. 47. - - Mchikichi tree of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Mdaburu, trying march in the jungle of, i. 277, 278. Description of, - 279. - - Mdimu nullah, i. 88. - - Meals at Ujiji, ii. 89. In East Africa, 280, 334. - - Measures of length in East Africa, ii. 388. - - Medicine chest required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Melancholy, inexplicable, of travellers in tropical countries, - ii. 130. - - Metrongoma, a wild fruit of Yombo, i. 387. - - Mfu’uni, hill of, i. 170. Its former importance, 171. - - Mfuto mountains, i. 326. - - Mfuto, clearing of, i. 389. - - Mganga, or medicine-man of East Africa, described, i. 38. His modus - operandi, 44; ii. 358. His office as a priest, 350. As a physician, - 352. As a detector of sorcery, 356. As a rain-maker, 357. As a - prophet, 358. His minor duties, 359. - - Mganga, or witch of East Africa, i. 380. - - Mgazi river, i. 86. - - Mgege fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mgeta river, the, i. 80, 159, 160, 166; ii. 268. Head of the, 80. - Mode of crossing the swollen river, 80. Pestilence of the banks of - the, i. 127. Fords of the, i. 336; ii. 268. - - Mgongo T’hembo, the Elephant’s Back, arrival of the caravan at, - i. 290. Description of, 290. Inhabitants of, 290. - - Mgude, or Mparamusi, tree, described, i. 47, 60, 83. - - Mgute fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mgunda Mk’hali, or “the Fiery Field,” i. 281. Description of, 281, - 282. Stunted vegetation of, 282. Geology of, 282. Scarcity of water - in, 283. Traversed by the caravan, 283. Features of the, 283, 292. - - Miasma of Sorora and Kajjanjeri, i. 403. - - Mikiziwa Lake, in Uguhha, ii. 147. - - Milk of cows in Ujiji, ii. 60. As food in East Africa, 283. - Preparations of, 283. - - Millepedes, or jongo, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Mimosa trees, i. 83. Flowers of the, in Usagara, 228. Trees in - Usagara, 229. In Unyamwezi, 318. Of the Usagara mountains, 165. - - Miyandozi, sultan of Kifukaru, i. 264. Levies blackmail on the - caravan, 264. - - Mji Mpia, “new town,” settlement of, described, i. 397. Bazar of, 397. - - Mkora tree, uses of the wood of the, i. 374. - - Mkorongo tree, uses of the, in East Africa, i. 374. - - Mkuba, or wild edible plum of Yombo, i. 387. - - Mkuyu, or sycamore tree, its magnificence in East Africa, i. 195. Its - two varieties, 195, 196. - - Mkwaju la Mouani, the “Tamarind in the rains,” the village of, - described, i. 52. - - Mninga tree, wood of the, i. 373. Use of the wood, 373. - - Mnya Mtaza, headman of Ukaranga, ii. 45. - - Mohammed bin Khamis, sailing-master of the Artemise, i. 8. - - Mohammed, the Baloch, the Rish Safid, or greybeard, sketch of him, - i. 134. At Kazeh, 381. - - Molongwe river, ii. 146. - - Money in East Africa, ii. 388. - - Mombas Mission, the, i. 6, 7. - - Mongo Nullah, the, i. 289. Water obtained at the, 289. - - Mongoose, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Monkeys of Muhinyera, i. 64. Of Usagara mountains, 162. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. - - Monkey-bread, ii. 221. - - Monsoon, the N. E., or Kaskazi, of East Africa, i. 83, 102. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 9. Origin of the S. W. monsoon, 50. Failure of the - opportunity for comparing the hygrometry of the African and Indian - monsoons, 93. - - Moon, Land of the. _See_ Unyamwezi. - - Moon, her splendour at the equator, i. 162. Halo or corona round the, - in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12. - - Morality, deficiency of, of the East Africans, ii. 335. - - Morus alba, the, in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Mosquitoes of East Africa described, i. 182. On the Ruche river, - ii. 52, 158. - - Mouma islands, ii. 153. - - Moumo tree (Borassus flabelliformis), of East Africa, i. 47, 180. - Toddy drawn from, 181. - - Mountains:-- - Dut’humi, i. 65, 83, 86, 119. - Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 287, 295. - Karagwah, ii. 48, 144, 177. - Kilima Ngao, ii. 179. - Kiringawana, i. 233. - Lunar, ii. 144, 178. - Mfuto, i. 326. - Mukondokwa, i. 180, 185, 194, 203, 233. - Ngu, or Nguru, i. 87, 125, 225. - Njesa, i. 226. - Rubeho, i. 203, 211, 214, 218, 245. - Rufuta, i. 167, 170, 180. - Uhha, ii. 160. - Urundi, i. 409; ii. 48. - Usagara, i. 101, 119, 159, 160, 215, 219, 225, 297. - Wahumba, i. 295. - Wigo, i. 159. - - Mountains, none in Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Mpagamo of Kigandu, defeated by Msimbira, i. 327. - - Mparamusi, or Mgude, tree, i. 47, 60, 83. - - Mpete, on the Malagarazi river, i. 410. - - Mpingu tree, i. 373. Uses of the wood of the, 373. - - Mporota, a den of thieves, halt at, ii. 252. - - Mrima, or “hill-land,” of the East African coast, described, i. 8, 30. - Inhabitants of, 30. Their mode of life, 35. Mode of doing business in, - 39. Vegetation of the, 47. Geography of the, 100. Climate of the, 102, - 104. Diseases of the, 105. Roads of the, 105, 106. Ethnology of the, - 106. - - Mororwa, sultan of Wilyankuru, i. 391. - - Msandarusi, or copal-tree, of Uzaramo, i. 63. - - Msene, settlement of, arrival of the party at, i. 395. Description of, - 395, 396. Sultan Masawza of, 396. Prices at, 397. Productions of, 397, - 398. Currency of, 398. Industry of, 398. Habits of the people of, 398. - Climate of, 399. - - Msimbira, sultan of the Wasukuma, i. 319. Papers of the party stolen - and carried to him, 320. Refuses to restore them, 320. Send a party to - cut off the road, 321. Defeats Sultan Mpagamo, 327. - - Msopora, Sultan, restores the stolen goods, ii. 166. - - Msufi, a silk-cotton tree, in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Msukulio tree of Uzaramo, i. 61, 83. - - Mtanda, date of the establishment of the kingdom of, ii. 5. - - Mtego, or elephant traps, i. 287. Disappearance of the Jemadar in one, - 288. - - Mt’hipit’hipi, or Abras precatorius, seeds of, used as an ornament, - ii. 181. - - Mtogwe tree, a variety of Nux vomica, i. 48. In Unyamwezi, 318, 401. - - Mtumbara, Sultan, and his quarrel, ii. 157. - - Mtunguja tree of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Mtungulu apples in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Mtuwwa, in Ubwari island, halt of the party at, ii. 114. Blackmail at, - 112. - - Mud-fish, African mode of catching, i. 315. - - Mud-fish in the Gombe nullah, i. 334. - - Mud, Yegea, i. 83. - - Muhama, halt at the nullah of, i. 176, 178. - - Muhinna bin Sulayman of Kazeh, his arrival at Kawele, ii. 133. His - extortion, 133. - - Muhinna bin Sulayman, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. - - Muhiyy-el-Din, Shafehi Hazi of Zanzibar, i. 7. - - Muhiyy-el-Din, Kazi, of the Wasawahili, i. 33. - - Muhonge, settlement of, described, i. 63. - - Muhonyera, district of, described, i. 63. Wild animals, 63. - - Mui’ Gumbi, Sultan of the Warori, ii. 271. Defeated by Sultan Ironga, - 75. Description of him, 271. - - Muikamba, on the Tanganyika Lake, night spent at, ii. 115. - - Muingwira river, ii. 211. - - Muinyi Wazira, engaged to travel with the expedition, i. 52. Sketch of - his character, 129. Requests to be allowed to depart, 314. His - debauch and dismissal, 399. Reappears at Kazeh, ii. 168. Ejected, 168. - - Muinyi, halt of the party at, i. 193. Determined attitude of the - people of, 194. - - Muinyi Chandi, passed through, i. 390. - - Mukondokwa mountains, i. 180, 185, 196, 197, 203, 233. Bleak raw air - of the, 197. - - Mukondokwa river, i. 88, 181, 188, 192, 311. Ford of, 188. Valley of - the, 192. - - Mukozimo district, arrival of the party at the, i. 407. Inhospitality - of the chiefs of, 407. - - Mukunguru, or seasoning fever, of Unyamwezi, ii. 14. - - Mulberry, the whitish-green, of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Murchison, Sir R., his triumphant geological hypothesis, i. 409. His - notice respecting the interior of Africa, 409, _note_. - - Murunguru river, ii. 154. - - Murivumba, tents of the party pitched at, ii. 114. Cannibal - inhabitants of, 114. - - Murundusi, march to, ii. 250. - - Musa, the assistant Rish Safid of the party, sketch of him, i. 138. - - Musa Mzuri, handsome Moses, of Kazeh, i. 323. His return to Kazeh, - ii. 223. His history, 223. His hospitality, 226. Visits the expedition - at Masui, 231. His kindness, 231. - - Music and musical instruments in East Africa, described, ii. 291, 338. - Of the Wajiji, 98. - - Mutware, or Mutwale, the Lord of the Ferry of the Malagarazi river, - i. 409. - - Muzungu, or white man, dangers of accompanying a, in Africa, i. 10, - 11. - - Muzunga Mbaya, the wicked white man, the plague of the party, ii. 239. - His civility near home, 240. Sketch of his personal appearance, and - specimen of his conversation, 244. - - Mvirama, a Mzaramo chief, demands rice, i. 80. - - Mviraru, a Wazaramo chief, bars the road, i. 58. - - Mvoro fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mvule trees used for making canoes, ii. 147. - - Mwami, or wild coffee of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, 187. - - Mwimbe, or mangrove trees, of the coast of East Africa, i. 9. Those of - Uzaramo, 62. - - Mwimbi, bad camping ground of, ii. 262. - - Mwongo fruit tree, in Mb’hali, i. 401. - - Mgombi river, i. 183. - - Myombo tree of East Africa described, i. 184. Of Usagara, 229. - - Mzimu, or Fetiss hut, of the Wazaramo, described, i. 57. In Ubwari - Island, halt at, ii. 113. Re-visited, 121. - - Mziga Mdogo, or “The Little Tamarind,” arrival of the party at, - i. 161. - - Mziga-ziga, a mode of carrying goods, i. 341. - - Mzogera, Sultan of Uvinza, i. 408. His power, 408. Settlement of - blackmail with envoys of, 408. - - - Names given to children by the Wazaramo, i. 116. - - Nakl, or first stage of departure, i. 43. - - Nar, Beni, “sons of fire,” the English so called in Africa, i. 31. - - Nautch at Kuingani described, i. 45. - - Ndabi tree, i. 196. Fruit of the, 196. - - Ndabi, halt of the caravan at, i. 196. - - Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake, antiquity of the mode of, ii. 96. - - Necklaces of shells worn in Ujiji, ii. 65. - - Nge, or scorpions, of East Africa, i. 370. - - Ngole, or Dendraspis, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Night in the Usagara mountains, i. 162. In the caravan, described, - 359. - - Nile, White, Ptolemy’s notion of the origin of the, ii. 178. Captain - Speke’s supposed discovery of the sources of the, 204. - - Njasa, Sultan of the Wasagara, his visit to the expedition, i. 199. - Description of him, 199. Makes “sare” or brotherhood with Said bin - Salim, 199. - - Njesa mountains, i. 226. - - Njugu ya Nyassa, the Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198. - - Northern kingdoms of Africa. _See_ Karagwah, Uganda, and Unyoro. - - Nose pincers of the Wajiji tribe, ii. 65. - - Nullahs, or watercourses of East Africa, i. 102. - - Nutmeg, wild, of Usui, ii. 176. - - Nyakahanga, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Nyanza, or Ukerewe, Lake, i. 311, 439; ii. 175, 176, 179. Chances of - exploration of the, 195. Geography of the, 206, 210, _et seq._ Size of - the, 212. Position of the, 211. Commerce of the, 215. Savage races of - the, 215. Reasons why it is not the head stream of the White Nile, - 218. Tribes dwelling near the, 219. - - Nyara, or Chamærops humilis, of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Nyasanga, fishing village on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 101. - - Nzasa, halt at the, i. 54. - - Nzige, or locusts, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Varieties of, 18. - - - Oars not used on the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 96. - - Ocelot, the, of Ugogi, i. 242. - - Oil, common kind of, in East Africa, ii. 285. Various kinds of, 285. - - Olive-tree unknown in East Africa, ii. 285. - - Olympus, the Æthiopian, ii. 179. - - Onions cultivated in Unyamwezi, i. 330. - - Ophthalmia, several of the party suffer from, in Unyamwezi, i. 406. - - Ophidia in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Ordeal for witchcraft, ii. 357. Amongst the Wazaramo, i. 114. - - Ornaments worn by the Wazaramo, i. 110. By the Wak’hutu, 120. Fondness - of the Africans for, 147, 148, 150. Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. - Of the Wagogo, 305. Of the Wahumba, 312. Of the porters of caravans, - 349. Of sultans in East Africa, 396. Of the Wakimba, ii. 20. Of the - Wanyamwezi, 22. Of the Wabuha, 78. Of the Wabwari islanders, 113. Of - the people of Karagwah, 181. - - Ostriches in Ugogo, i. 301. Value of feathers in East Africa, i. 301. - - Outfit of the expedition, articles required for the, i. 151. - - Oxen of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - - Paddles used on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 96. Described, 96. - - Palm, Syphæna, i. 82, 83. - - Palma Christi, or Mbarika, of East Africa, i. 48. - - Palm-oil, or mawezi, of the shores of the Lake Tanganyika, ii. 58. - Mode of extracting it, 58, 59. Price at the lake, 59. Uses to which it - is applied, 59. Trade in, at Wafanya, 107. - - Palmyra tree (Borassus flabelliformis), in the plains, i. 180. Toddy - drawn from, 181. At Yambo, 387. And at Mb’hali, 401. Tapped for toddy - at Msene, 398. - - Pangani river, ii. 179. - - Papazi, pest of, in East Africa, i. 371. - - Papilionaceæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Panda, village of, i. 403. - - Pano, village of, i. 389. - - Parugerero, district of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 37. Salt manufacture of, - 37. - - Partridges in the Doab of the Mgeta river i. 81. - - Pazi bug, the, of East Africa, i. 371. - - Peewit, the, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. - - Phantasmata in East Africa, ii. 352. - - P’hazi, or headmen of the Wazaramo, i. 54, 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. - - P’hepo, ghost or devil, African belief in, i. 88; ii. 352. Exorcism, - 352. - - Phlebotomy in East Africa, ii. 322. - - Pig-nuts of East Africa, i. 198. - - Pillaw in Africa, i. 393. How to boil rice, 393. - - Pine-apple, or Mananzi, of East Africa, i. 66. - - Pipes in East Africa, ii. 315. - - Pismires, chungo-fundo or siyafu, of the banks of the rivers in East - Africa, described, i. 186. Its enemy, the maji m’oto, 187. - - Pismires black, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Plantain wine of Karagwah, ii. 180. And of Uganda, 197. Mode of making - it, 287. - - Plantains near the Unguwwe river, ii. 41. Of Ujiji, 58. The staff of - life in many places, 58. Luxuriance of it, 58. Varieties, 58. Of - Uganda, 196. - - Playfair, Captain R. L., his “History of Arabia Felix” quoted, i. 68, - _note_. - - Plum, wild, of Yombo, i. 387. - - Plundering expeditions of the Wazaramo, i. 112. - - Poisons used for arrows in Africa, ii. 301. - - Polygamy amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 24. - - Pombe beer, of East Africa, i. 95, 116, 333; ii. 180, 285. Universal - use of, i. 309; ii. 29. Mode of making it, 286. - - Porcupines in K’hutu, i. 160. - - Porridge of the East Africans, i. 35. - - Porridge flour, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Porters, or Pagazi, the Wanyamwezi, of the expedition, i. 143. - Character of East African, 144. In East Africa, 337. Variations of - porterage, 339. Great weight carried sometimes by, 341. Their - discontent, 343. Desertion of in Wilyankuru, 391. Description of those - hired in Ujiji, ii. 157. Of the Warori, 271. - - Pottery, art of, in East Africa, ii. 313. - - Prices at Msene, i. 397. In the market at Unyanyembe, 333. In Ujiji, - ii. 72. At Wafanya, 107. At Uvira, 120, 121. - - Proverbs, Arab, i. 50, 86, 130, 133, 135, 382. - - ---- African, i. 31. - - ---- Moslem, ii. 131. - - ---- Persian, ii. 237. - - ---- Sanscrit, i. 133. - - ---- Wanyamwezi, i. 338. - - Pumpkins, junsal or boga, grown at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. - - Punishments in Uganda, ii. 192. - - Punishments in East Africa, ii. 364. - - Punneeria coagulans of the Mrima, i. 48. - - - Quaggas in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - - Races of the Northern Kingdoms of Africa, ii. 174, 175. - - Rahmat, the Baloch, i. 46. - - Rain at Zungomero, i. 156. Autumnal, at Muhama, 179. In the Usagara - mountains, 218, 231, 232. In Ugogo, 298. The Masika or wet season, - 378. In Unyamwezi, ii. 8-10. In the valley of the Malagarazi river, - 49. In Karagwah, 180. - - Rainbow, fog, in the Usagara mountains, i. 222. - - Ramji, the Banyan of Cutch, engaged to accompany the expedition, - i. 10. His commercial speculation, 20. His conversation with Ladha - Damha, 23. Visits the author at Kuingani, 43. Account of him, 43, 44. - His advice, 45. - - Ramji, “sons” of, sketch of them, i. 140. Their ever-increasing - baggage, 182. Their quarrels with the Baloch soldiers, 163. Their - insolence, 164. Reappear at Kazeh, ii. 168. Allowed to take the places - of porters, 227. Return home, ii. 277. - - Ranæ of Unyamwezi, ii. 17. Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 61. - - Rats, field, i. 160. On the banks of the Mukondokwa river, 193. House - rats of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Ravens of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Religion of the Wazaramo, i. 115. Of the East Africans, _ib._; ii. - 341. An African’s notion of God, 348 _note_. - - Reptiles in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Respect, tokens of, amongst the Wajiji, ii. 69. - - Revenge of the African, ii. 329. - - Revenue, sources of, in East Africa, ii. 365. - - Rhinoceroses at Dut’humi, i. 87. On the road to Ugogo, 247. On the - Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. In Ugogo, 300. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. The - Rhinoceros horn trade of East Africa, 413. - - Rice, how to cook, i. 393. Red, density and rapidity of growth of, at - Msene, 397. Luxuriance of, in Ujiji, ii. 57. Allowed to degenerate, - 57. Unknown in Karagwah, 180. - - Ricinæ of East Africa, i. 371. - - Rigby, Captain, at Zanzibar, ii. 382. - - Rivers:-- - Dungomaro, or Mandama, i. 222. - Gama, i. 123. - Kariba, ii. 146. - Karindire, ii. 146. - Katonga, ii. 187. - K’hutu, i. 86. - Kibaiba, ii. 146. - Kingani, i. 56, 69, 87, 101, 123, 231. - Kikoboga, ii. 263. - Kitangure, or Karagwah, i. 409; ii. 144, 177, 186. - Kuryamavenge, ii. 146. - Malagarazi, i. 334, 337, 407, 408; ii. 36, 39, 47, 49, 164. - Mandama, or Dungomero, 222. - Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200, 201. - Marenga Mk’hali, upper, i. 247. - Maroro, i. 231. - Molongwe, ii. 146. - Mgazi, i. 86. - Mgeta, i. 80, 86, 87, 88, 101, 119, 127, 159, 160, 336; ii. 264, - 268, 274. - Muingwira, ii. 187. - Mukondokwa, i. 88, 181, 188, 192, 216, 311. - Myombo, i. 181. - Mwega, ii. 256. - Pangani, i. 125; ii. 179. - Ruche, ii. 46, 52, 157, 158. - Rufiji, or Rwaha, i. 30, 101, 119, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257, 270, - 379. - Rufuta, i. 167. - Ruguvu, or Luguvu, ii. 40, 52. - Rumangwa, ii. 149, 153. - Rumuma, i. 197. - Rusizi, or Lusizi, ii. 117, 146. - Rusugi, ii. 37, 161. - Rwaha, or Rufiti, i. 216, 220, 225, 231, 295; ii. 8. - Tumbiri of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217. - Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, ii. 40, 52. - Yovu, ii. 257, 258. - Zohnwe, i. 127. - - Riza, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 139. - - Roads in the maritime region of East Africa described, i. 105, 106. In - the Usagara Mountains, 230. From Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. In Ugogo, - 302. In Unyanyembe, 325. Description of the roads in East Africa, 335. - In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. From the Malagarazi Ferry, 51. - - Rubeho Mountains, i. 233, 211, 245. - - Rubeho, or “Windy Pass,” painful ascent of the, i. 213. Scenery from - the summit, 214. Village of Wasagara at the summit, 218. - - Rubeho, the Great, halt at the, i. 215. Dangerous illness of Capt. - Speke at, 215. His restoration, 215. - - Rubeho, the Little, ascent of the, i. 215. Fight between the porters - and the four Wak’hutu, 216. - - Rubeho, the Third, halt of the caravan at, i. 221. - - Rubuga, arrival of the caravan at, i. 315. Visit from Abdullah bin - Jumah and his flying caravan, 315. Flood at, 317. - - Ruche river, ii. 52. Mouth of the, 46, 157. - - Rudi, march to, ii. 251. - - Rufiji river, the, i. 30, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257, 379. Races on - the, i. 30. - - Rufita Pass in Umgara, ii. 259. - - Rufuta fiumara, the, i. 167. - - Ruguvu, or Luguvu, river, ii. 40, 52. Fords of the, i. 336. - - Ruhembe rivulet, the, ii. 261. Halt in the basin of the, 261. - - Ruhembe, Sultan, slain by the Watuta, ii. 76. - - Rukunda, or Lukunda, night spent at, i. 407. - - Rumanika of Karagwah, his rebellion and defeat, ii. 183. Besieges his - brother, 224. - - Rumuma river, described, i. 197. - - Rumuma, halt of the caravan at, i. 198. Abundance of its supplies, - 198. Visit from the Sultan Njasa at, 199. Climate of, 199. - - Rusimba, Sultan of Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Rusizi river, ii. 117, 146. - - Rusugi river, described, ii. 37. Forded, 37. - - Ruwere, chief of Jambeho, levies “dash” on the party, ii. 36. - - Rwaha river, i. 295, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257. - - - Sage, in Usagara, i. 228. - - Sangale fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Said, Sayyid, Sultan of Zanzibar, the “Imaum of Muscat,” i. 2. His - sons, 2. - - Salim bin Rashid, the Arab merchant, calls on Captain Burton, ii. 228. - - Said bin Salim, appointed Ras Kafilah, or caravan guide, to the - expedition, i. 9, 10. Attacked by fever, 71. His terror of the - Wazaramo, 73. His generosity through fear, 90. His character, 129. - His hatred of the Baloch, 163. His covetousness, 163, 164. Insolence - of his slaves, 164. His dispute with Kidogo, 255. His fears, and - neglect at Ugogo, 280. His inhospitality, 287. His change of - behaviour, 382. His punishment, 384. His selfishness, 391. His fears, - ii. 125. Enters into brotherhood with Lurinda, 125. And afterwards - with Kannena, 126. His carelessness of the supplies, 127. His - impertinence, 159, 160. His attempts to thwart the expedition, 172. - Pitches tents outside Kazeh, 227. Moves to the village of Masui, 229. - Dismissed from his stewardship, 237. His news from Zanzibar, 261. His - terror in Uzaramo, 275. Leaves for home, 277. Visits the author at - Zanzibar, 382. - - Said bin Ali el Hinawi, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. - - Said bin Majid, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. Return of the - expedition with his caravan, ii. 157. Separation from him, 165. - Treatment of his people at Ujiji, 84. - - Said bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, and his caravan i. 257. Account of him - and his family, 258. - - Said bin Mohammed, Sultan of Irora, i. 389. His surliness, 389. - Brought to his senses, 389, 390. - - Salim bin Said, the Arab merchant in Wilyankuru, i. 391. His - hospitality, 391. - - Salim bin Masud, the Arab merchant, murdered, i. 328, 391. - - Sanscrit proverb, i. 133. - - Salt, demand for, in Ujiji, ii. 82. Scarcity of, at Wafanya, 108. - Stock laid in, ii. 161. - - Salt-pits of K’hutu, i. 92. - - Salt-trade of Parugerero, ii. 37. Quality of the salt, 37. - - Salsaparilla vine of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Sare, or brother oath, of the Wazaramo, i. 114. Mode of performing the - ceremony, 114. Ceremony of, performed between Sultan Njasa and Said - bin Salim, i. 199. - - Sawahil, or “the shores,” geographical position of the, i. 29, 30. - People of, described, 30. - - Sayf bin Salim, the Arab merchant, account of, i. 83. Returns to - Dut’humi, 128. His covetousness, 128. Crushes a servile rebellion, - 125. - - Scorpions of East Africa, i. 370. In the houses in Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Seasons, aspect of the, in Ugogo, i. 298. Eight in Zanzibar, ii. 8. - Two in Unyamwezi, 8. - - Seedy Mubarak Bombay, gun-carrier in the expedition, character of, - i. 130, 279. His demand of bakhshish, ii. 173. His peculiarities, 236. - Appointed steward, 237. - - Σεληνης ορος of the Greeks, locality of the, ii. 4. - - Servile war in East Africa, i. 125. - - Shahdad, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135. Left behind at Kazeh, 381. - - Sharm, or shame, Oriental, i. 23. - - Sheep of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - Shehe, son of Ramji, appointed Kirangozi, ii. 232. Dismissed, 238. - - Shields of the Wasagara tribe, i. 238. Unknown to the Wagogo, 304. - Carried by the Wahumba, 312. In Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Shoes required for the expedition, i. 154. - - Shoka, or battle-axes of the East Africans, ii. 307. - - Shukkah, or loin cloth, of East Africa, i. 149. Of the Wasagara, 235. - Materials of which it is made, 236. - - Siki, or vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288. - - Sikujui, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. Description of her, - 210, 221. - - Silurus, the, of the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 284. - - Sime, or double-edged knives, of the Wasagara, i. 240. Of the Wagogo, - 306. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of East Africa generally, 307. - - Singa fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Siroccos at Ugogo, i. 260. - - Siyafu, or black pismires, annoyances of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Skeletons on the road side, i. 165, 168. - - Skin, colour of the, of the Wazaramo, i. 108. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of - the Wadoe, 124. Of the Wagogo, 304. Sebaceous odour of the, of the - Wazaramo, 309. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 20. Warundi, 145. Karagwah - people, 181. Skin diseases of East Africa, 320. - - Slave caravans of East Africa, i. 17. At Tumba Ihere, 62. At Zanzibar, - 50. - - Slaves and slavery: kidnapping in Inland Magogoni, i. 88. In Dat’humi, - 89. Slavery in K’hutu, 97, 98, 121. Kidnappings of the Wazegura, 125. - Pitiable scene presented by a village after a commando, 185. In Ugogo, - 309. In Unyamwezi, ii. 23. Of Ujiji, 61, 71. Prices of slaves in, 62, - 71. Prices of Wahha slaves at Msene, 79. Not trustworthy in Africa, - 111. Their modes of murdering their patrons, 111. Prices of, in Uvira, - 121. In Karagwah, 184. In Ubena, 270. Degrading effects of the slave - trade, 340, 366. Origin of the slave trade of East Africa, 366. - Treatment of slaves, 367, 369. Two kinds of slave trade, 368. - Kidnapping, 369. Character of slaves, 371. Revenge of slaves, 374, - 375. Female slaves, 375. Prices of slaves, 375. Number of slaves - imported yearly into Zanzibar, 377. Ease with which the slave-trade at - Zanzibar could be abolished, 377. - - Small-pox in the Usagara mountains, i. 166. And in the up caravans, - 179. The porters of the party attacked by, 180, 184, 190. In Khalfan’s - caravan, 201. In the caravans in East Africa, 342. In East Africa - generally, ii. 318. - - Smoking parties of women at Yombo, i. 388. - - Snay bin Amir, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. Performs the guest - rites there, 323, 324. Sketch of his career, 324. His visit to the - Sultan of Ugunda, ii. 193. His kindness, i. 384; ii. 231. - - Snakes at Unyamwezi, ii. 17. In the houses in Ujiji, 61. - - Snuff, Wajiji mode of taking, ii. 65. - - Soil, fertility of the, at Msene, i. 397. Character of the, in - Unyamwezi, ii. 6. Wondrous fertility of the, in the valley of the - Malagarazi river, 49. And of that of Ujiji, 57. - - Soma Giri, of the Hindus, locality of the, ii. 4. - - Songs of the porters of the caravan, ii. 361, 362. Of East Africa, - ii. 291. - - Sorghum cultivated in Ujiji, ii. 57. - - Sorora, or Solola, in Unyamwezi, arrival of the party at, i. 401. Its - deadly climate, 401. - - Speke, Capt., his illness in Uzaramo, i. 62, 65, 69. Shakes off his - preliminary symptoms, 71. Lays the foundation of a fever, 82. - Thoroughly prostrated, 84. Recovers his health at Mzizi Mdogo, 161. - Again attacked at Muhama, 179. And by “liver” at Rumuma, 200. - Dangerous illness at the Windy Pass, 214. Restored, 215. Unable to - walk, 286. Awaits reserve supplies at Kazeh, 386. Rejoins the caravan, - 390. Tormented by ophthalmia, 406; ii. 86. Starts on an expedition to - explore the northern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake, 87. Returns - moist and mildewed, and nothing done, 90. His “Journal” in “Blackwood” - referred to, 90. Quoted, 91 _note_. A beetle in his ear, 91 _note_. - Joins the second expedition, 99. Improvement in his health, 129. - Return journey, 157. His deafness and dimness of vision, 169. Leaves - Kazeh for the north, 173. Returns, 204. His supposed discovery of the - sources of the White Nile, 204. Taken ill at Hanga, 233. Convalescent, - 240. Sights the sea at Konduchi, 279. Returns home, 384. - - Spears and assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. Of the Wagogo, 306. - Of the Wahumba, 311. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of East Africa - generally, 301. - - Spiders of East Africa, i. 371. In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Sport in East Africa, remarks on, i. 268. - - Spring, hot, of Maji ya W’heta, i. 159. - - Squirrels, red, in K’hutu, i. 160. - - Stars, their splendour at the equator, i. 163. - - Stares, category of in Africa, ii. 129. - - Stationery required for the expedition, i. 153. - - Steinhæuser, Dr., i. 25. - - Storm in Uzaramo, i. 69. Those of the rainy monsoon in Unyamwezi, - ii. 9. On the Tanganyika Lake, description of a, 122. - - Succession and inheritance, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Sugar-cane, wild, or Gugu-mbua, i. 71. In Ujiji, ii. 58. Chewed, 288. - - Sugar made of granulated honey, i. 397. - - Suiya, antelope, i. 269. - - Sulphur in Karagwah, ii. 185. - - Sultans, burial-places of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 26. Power of the Sultan - in this country, 31. And in East Africa generally, ii. 362. - - Sun, his splendour at the equator, i. 162. Ring-cloud tempering the - rays of the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12. - - Suna, Sultan of Uganda, ii. 188. The Arabs’ description of him, 189. - His hundred sons, 192. His chief officers, and mode of government, - 192. Account of a visit to him, 193. - - Sunset-hour on the Indian Ocean, i. 1. In the Land of the Moon, 387. - In Unyamwezi, ii. 7. In Ujiji, 89. In East Africa generally, 289. - - Sunrise on the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 156. - - Superstitions of the Wamrima, i. 38. Of the Wagogoni, inland, 88. Of - the Wazaramo, 112, 114, 115. - - Supplies, shortness of, ii. 130. Arrival of some, but inadequate for - the purpose, 130. - - Surgery in East Africa, ii. 322. - - Suwarora, Sultan, his exorbitant black-mail, ii. 176. - - Swallows in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Swords in East Africa, ii. 308. - - Sycomore tree of East Africa, the Mkuyu, its magnificence, i. 195. Its - two varieties, 195, 196. Its magnificence in Usagara, 229. - - - Tailoring in Africa, ii. 201. - - Tamarind trees of the Usagara Mountains, i. 165, 229. Modes of - preparing the fruit, 165. At Mfuto, 389. - - Tanganyika Lake, first view of the, described, ii. 42, 43. A boat - engaged on the, 45. Seen from Ujiji, 47. Hippopotami and crocodiles - in, 60. People of the shores of, 62, _et seq._ Fishing in, 66. - Varieties of fish in, 67. Failure of Captain Speke’s expedition for - exploring the northern shores of, 90. Preparations for another cruise, - 93. Description of the boats of the lake, 94. Navigation of the, 94. - Voyage up the, 99. Eastern shores of the, described, 100. Fishing - villages, 100. Remarks on boating and voyaging on the lake, 101. - Account of the island of Ubwari, 108. Visit to the island, 113. - Further progress stopped, 117, 119. Storm on the lake, 122. History of - the lake, ii. 134 _et seq._ Meaning of the name, 137. Extent and - general direction of, 137. Altitude of, 139. Sweetness of its water, - 139. Its colour, 140. Its depth, 140. Its affluents, 140. Its coasts, - 141. No effluents, 141. Its temperature, 142. Its ebb and flow, 143. - Physical and ethnological features of its periplus, 144. Sunrise - scenery on the lake, 156. - - Targes of the East Africans described, ii. 307. - - Tattoo, not general amongst the Wazaramo, i. 108. Nor amongst the - Wak’hutu, 120. Practised by the Wadoe, 124. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 21. - Amongst the Wajiji, 63. Of the Warundi, 145. - - Teeth, chipped to points by the Wasagara tribe, i. 235. - - Tembe, the houses beyond Marenga Mk’hali so called, i. 207. - Description of the Tembe of East Africa, 366. - - Tembo, or palm-toddy, a favourite inebrient in Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Tenga, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Tent-making in Africa, ii. 201. - - Termites of East Africa, i. 201, 202. In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Tetemeka, or earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Thermometers in Africa, i. 169. - - Thiri, or Ut’hiri, district of, ii. 215. - - Thirst, impatience and selfishness of, of the Baloch guard, i. 205. - African impatience of, 359; ii. 334. - - Thorns, nuisance of, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246. - - Thunder and lightning in Unyamwezi, ii. 9. In the Malagarazi valley, - 50. In Karagwah, 180. - - Timber of East Africa, ii. 415. - - Time, difficulty of keeping, by chronometers in East African travel, - i. 189, 190. Second-hand watches to be preferred, 190. - - Tirikeza, or afternoon march of a caravan, i. 203, 221. Incidents of - one, 204, 205. - - Tobacco, trade of, in East Africa, ii. 418. - - Tobacco, use of, in East Africa, i. 36. Smoked by women in Unyamwezi, - 388. Chewed by Unyamwezi, ii. 28. Tobacco of Uganda, 196. Tobacco - trade of East Africa, ii. 418. - - Tobacco-pipes of Eastern Africa, i. 388; ii. 315. - - Toddy obtained from the palmyra of Msene only, i. 398. Extracted from - the Guinea-palm in Ujiji, ii. 59. Prevalence of the use of, in Ujiji, - 59, 70. Of Zanzibar, 287. - - Togwa, a drink in Unyamwezi, i. 333. And in East Africa generally, - ii. 286. - - Tombs of the Wamrima and Wazaramo, i. 57. - - Tools required for the expedition, i. 153. - - Tramontana of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 214. - - Travellers in Africa, advice to, ii. 82. Melancholy of which - travellers in tropical countries complain, 130. - - Travelling, characteristics of Arab, in Eastern Africa, ii. 157. - Expense of travelling in East Africa, 229. - - Trees in East Africa. _See_ Vegetation. - - Tree-bark used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. Mode of preparing it, - 64. - - Trove, treasure, Arab care of, i. 258. - - Tumba Ihere, the P’hazi, i. 54. His station, 62. Slave caravans at, - 62. Accompanies the expedition, 62, 65. - - Tumbiri river of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217. - - Tunda, “the fruit,” malaria of the place, i. 71. - - Tura, arrival of the caravan at the nullah of, i. 291. And at the - village of, 292. Astonishment of the inhabitants, 292. Description of, - 313. Return to, ii. 241. - - Turmeric at Muinyi Chandi, i. 390. - - Twanigana, elected Kirangozi, ii. 239. His conversation, 243. - - Twins amongst the Wazaramo, i. 116. Treatment of, in Unyamwezi, - ii. 23. - - Tzetze, a stinging jungle fly, i. 187. At K’hok’ho, 276. On the - Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. - - - Ubena, land of, described, ii. 269. People of, 270. Commerce and - currency of, 270. - - Ubeyya, province of, ii. 153. - - Ubwari, island of, ii. 108. De Barros’ account of, quoted, 108. Size - and position of, 108. The expedition sails for, 112. Inhabitants of, - 113. Halt at, 114. Portuguese accounts of, 135. - - Uchawi, or black magic, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113. - Described, 265. Not generally believed in Ugogo, 307. Mode of - proceeding in cases of, ii. 32. Belief of the East Africans generally - in, 347. Office of the mganga, 356. - - Ufipa, district of, on the Tanganyika Lake, i. 153. Its fertility, - 135. People of, 153. - - Ufyoma, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Ugaga, delay at the village of, i. 408, 410. - - Ugali, or flour porridge, the common food of East Africa, i. 35. Of - the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Uganda, road to, ii. 187. Sultan of, and his government, 188. - - Uganza, arrival of the caravan at, i. 407. - - Ugogi, halt of the party at, i. 241. Abundance of provisions at, 241. - Geography of, 242. People of, 242. Animals of, 242. Pleasant position - of, 243. Its healthiness, 243. - - Ugogo, first view of, from the Usagara mountains, i. 220. The plains - of, reached by the caravan, 223. Scenery on the road near, 245. - Blackmail at, 252. Entrance into, 259. Description of the surrounding - country, 259. The calabash tree at, 260. Siroccos at, 260. Reception - of the caravan at, 261. Incidents of the march through, 261-280. Roads - from Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. Geography of Ugogo, 294. Boundaries of, - 294. No rivers in, 295. Igneous formation of, 295. Houses of, 296. - Subsoil of, 296. Climate of, 297. Diseases of, 299. Vegetation of, - 299, 300. Animals of, 300. Roads of, 302. Description of the tribes - of, 303. Lodging for caravans in, 354. Return through, ii. 246. - - Ugoyye, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53. - - Uhha, land of, now a desert, ii. 53. Laid waste by the Watuta tribe, - 76, 78. - - Uhehe, march through, ii. 250. People of, 251. - - Ujiji, Sea of. _See_ Tanganyika, Lake of. - - Ujiji, town of, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. Arrival of the party - at the, ii. 46. Scene there, 47. Climate of, 50, 51. Boundaries of, - 53. Villages and districts of, 53. Camping ground of caravans near, - 54. Distance of Ujiji from the coast, and number of stages, 55. - History of the country, 56. Trade of, 57. Fertility of the soil of, - 57. Bazar of, 59. Fauna of, 60. Slave trade of, 61. Principal tribes - in, 62. Inconveniences of a halt at, and of a return journey from, 74. - Mode of spending the day at, 87. - - Ukami, depopulation of, i. 88. - - Ukaranga, or “land of ground-nuts,” on the Tanganyika Lake, arrival - at, ii. 44. Boundaries of, 52. Wretched villages of, 52. Apathy of the - people, 52. Etymology of the name, 52. - - Ukerewe, ii. 212. Account of, 212, 213. People of, 212. Commerce of, - 213. - - Ukhindu, or brab-tree, i. 48. - - Ukona, reached by the caravan, i. 318. - - Ukungwe, village of, i. 403. - - Ukungwe, islands of, ii. 151. - - Umbilical region, protrusion of the, in the children of the Wazaramo, - ii. 117. - - Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, river, ii. 40, 52. Forded, 40. - - Unyanguruwwe, settlement of, i. 408. - - Unyangwira, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Unyanyembe district, rice lands of the, i. 321. Aspect of the land, - 321. Description of it, 325; ii. 5. Roads in, i. 325. Its physical - features, 326. Its villages, 326. History of the Arab settlements in, - 327. Food in, 329, 331-334. Prices in, 333. - - Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon, i. 313. Arrival of the caravan in - the, 314. Lodgings for caravans in, 354. Geography of, ii. 1. - Boundaries and extent of, 2. Altitude of, 2. The country as known to - the Portuguese, 2. Corruptions of the name, 2, 3. Etymology of the - word, 3, 4. Barbarous traditions of its having been a great empire, 4. - Portuguese accounts of its former greatness, 5. Its present political - condition, 5. Its dialects, 5. Provinces into which it is divided, 5. - General appearance of the country, 6. Its geology, 6. Peaceful rural - beauty of the country, 7. Water and rice fields, 7. Versant of - Unyamwezi, 8. Its two seasons, 8. Its rainy monsoon, 8-10. The hot - season, 11. Diseases of the country, 11, 13, 14. Whirlwinds and - earthquakes, 11, 13. Curious effects of the climate, 14. Fauna of - Unyamwezi, 15. Roads in, 19. Notice of the races of, 19. - - Unyoro, dependent, ii. 187. - - Unyoro, independent, land of, ii. 197. People of, 197. - - Urundi, mountains of, i. 409; ii. 48. Arrival of the expedition in the - region of, 101. People of, 107, 117. Description of the kingdom of, - 144. Governments of, 145. People of, 145. Route to, 169. - - Uruwwa, the present terminus of trade, ii. 147. People of, 147. Prices - at, 147. - - Usagara mountains, i. 87, 159, 215, 297, 335. Ascent of the, 160. Halt - in the, 161. Healthiness of the, 161. Vegetation of the, 162, 165. - Water in the, 218. Descent of the counterslope of the, 219. View from - the, 220. Geography of the, 225, _et seq._ Geology of the, 227. Fruits - and flowers of the, 228. Magnificent trees of the, 129. Water-channels - and cultivation of the ground in the, 229. Village of the, 229. - Supplies of food in the, 229. Roads of the, 230. Water for drinking in - the, 230. Climate of the, 231. Diseases of the, 233. The tribes - inhabiting the, 233. - - Usagozi, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. March to, i. 405. Insolence - of the men of, 405. Description of the town of, and country around, - 405. Sultan and people of, 406. - - Usek’he, in Ugogo, i. 272. - - Usenda, capital of the Sultan Kazembe, ii. 148. Trade of Usenda, 148. - - Usenge, arrival of the party at the clearing of, i. 407. - - Usoga, Land of, ii. 197. People of, 197. - - Usui, road and route from Unyanyembe to, ii. 175. Description of, 176. - People of, 176. - - Usukama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5. - - Usumbwa, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Utakama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5. - - Utambara, near Marungu, district of, ii. 151. - - Ut’hongwe, country of, ii. 52. - - Utumbara, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6, 176. People of, 176. - - Uvinza, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. Geography of, ii. 1, 48. The - two seasons of, 8. - - Uvira, southern frontier of, reached by the expedition, ii. 115, 116. - Sultan of, 116. Blackmail at, 120. Commerce of, 120. - - Uyanzi, land of, description of the, i. 279. - - Uyonwa, principal village of Uvinza, ii. 78. Sultan Mariki of, 78. - Tents pitched at, 161. - - Uyuwwi, Kitambi, sultan of, i. 320. - - Uzaramo, the first district of, i. 54. Fertility of, 60. Wild animals - of, 63. Storm in, 60. Boundaries of the territory of, 107. Roads in, - 335. Art of narcotising fish in, ii. 67. Re-entered, 275. - - Uzige, land of, described, ii. 146. People of, 146. Rivers of, 146. - - Uziraha, plain of, ii. 263. - - Uzungu, or White Land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261. - - - Valentine, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. Taken - ill, i. 200, 379; ii. 169. Cured by the tinctura Warburgii, 169. His - reception by the Wagogo, 263. Sent to learn cooking, 384. Suffers from - ophthalmia, 406. Mortally wounds a Wayfanya, ii. 124. - - Vegetables in East Africa, i. 201; ii. 283. - - Vegetation of-- - Bomani, road to, i. 47. - Dut’humi, i. 87. - Eastern Africa generally, i. 228. - Karagwah, ii. 180. - Katonga river, ii. 187. - K’hutu, i. 91. - Kingani river, valley of the, i. 56, 69. - Kiranga-Ranga, i. 60. - Kirira, i. 395. - Kiruru, i. 83. - Kuingani, i. 43. - Makata tank, i. 181. - Mgeta river, i. 166. - Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 282. - Mrima, the, i. 101, 103, 104. - Msene, i. 397, _note_. - Muhogwe, i. 63. - Mukondokwa mountains, i. 195. - Murundusi, ii. 250. - Rufuta fiumara, i. 168. - ---- plains, i. 180. - Tanganyika Lake shores, ii. 141. - The road beyond Marenga Mk’hali, i. 205. - The road to Ugogo, i. 246. - Tumba Ihere, i. 62. - Ugogo, i. 275, 299, 300. - Ugoma, ii. 147. - Ujiji, ii. 57. - Unguwwe river, ii. 40. - Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - Usagara mountains, i. 162, 165, 220. - Uvinza in June, ii. 163. - Yombo, i. 387. - Zungomero, i. 95. - - Veneration, African want of, ii. 336. - - Village life in East Africa, described, ii. 278. - - Villages of the Mrima, i. 102. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. A deserted - village described, 185. Villages of the Usagara mountains, 229. Of the - Wahehe, 240. Of East Africa generally, 364, _et seq._ In Unyamwezi, - ii. 7. Of Ukaranga, 52. - - Vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288. - - Voandzeia subterranea, a kind of vetch, i. 196, 198. - - - Wabembe tribe, their cannibal practices, ii. 114, 146. - - Wabena tribes, i. 304. Described by the Arab merchants, ii. 270. - - Wabha tribe, their habitat, ii. 78. Their chief village, 78. Their - personal appearance and dress, 78. Their arms, 78. Their women, 78. - - Wabisa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 150. Their dress, 150. Their manners - and customs, 150. - - Wabwari, or people of Ubwari island, described, ii. 113. Women of the, - 113. - - Wadoe tribe, their habitat, i. 123. Their history, 123. Their - cannibalism, 123. Their distinctive marks, 124. Their arms, 124. Their - customs, 124. Subdivisions of the tribe, 124. - - Wafanya, halt at the village of, ii. 106. Visit from the chief of, - 107. Blackmail at, 107. Climate of, 107. Prices at, 107. - - Wafipa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 153. Their personal appearance, 153. - - Wafyoma race, described, ii. 176. - - Waganda races, described, ii. 196. Their language, 196. Their dress, - 196. - - Waganga, or priests, of Urundi, their savage appearance, ii. 145. - _See_ Mganga. - - Wagara, or Wagala, tribe, i. 407. - - Wagogo, their astonishment at the white man, i. 263. Habitat of the, - 303, 304. Extent of the country of the, 304. Complexion of the, 304. - The ear-ornaments of the, 304. Distinctive mark of the, 304. Modes of - wearing the hair, 304. Women of the, 305. Dress of the, 305. Ornaments - of the, 305. Arms of the, 306. Villages of the, 306. Language of the, - 306. Their dislike of the Wanyamwezi, 307. Their strength of numbers, - 307. Not much addicted to black magic, 307. Their commerce, 308. Their - greediness, 308. Their thievish propensities, 309. Their idleness and - debauchery, 309. Their ill manners, 309. Their rude hospitality, 310. - Authority of the Sultan of Ugogo, 310. Food in, 310, 311. - - Wagoma tribe, their habitat, ii. 147. - - Waguhha tribe, habitat of the, ii. 147. Lake in their country, 147. - Roads, 147. - - Wahayya tribe, the, ii. 187. - - Wahehe tribe, their habitat, i. 239. Their thievish propensities, 239. - Their distension of their ear-lobes, 239. Distinctive marks of the - tribe, 239. Their dress, 239. Their arms, 240. Their villages, flocks, - and herds, 240. - - Wahha tribe, their country laid waste, ii. 76, 78. Their present - habitat, 79. Wahha slaves, 79. - - Wahinda tribe, account of the, ii. 219. Their habitat, 219. Their - dress, 220. Their manners and customs, 220. - - Wahuma class of Karagwah, described, ii. 181, 182. - - Wahumba tribe, the bandit, i. 203. Haunts of the, seen in the - distance, 205. - - Wahumba, or Wamasai, tribe, ii. 215. Attack the villages of Inenge, - i. 213. Haunts of, 259. Slavery among the, 309. Dialect of the, 311. - Habitat of the, 311. Seldom visited by travellers, 311. Complexion of - the, 311. Dress, manners, and customs of the, 312. Dwellings of the, - 312. Arms of the, 312. - - Wahumba Hills, i. 295, 297. - - Wajiji tribe, the, described, ii. 62. Rudeness and violence of, 62, - 68. Diseases of, 63. Practice of tattooing amongst, 63. Ornaments and - dress of, 63, 64. Cosmetics of, 63. Mode of taking snuff of, 65. - Fishermen of the lake of Tanganyika, 66. Ceremoniousness of the - Wajiji, 69. Absence of family affection amongst them, 69. Their habits - of intoxication, 69. Power and rights of their sultan, 70. Their - government, 71. Their commerce, 71. Prices in Ujiji, 72. Currency in, - 73. Musical instruments of the Wajiji, 98. Inquisitive wonder of the - people, 128. Category of stares, 128. - - Wakaguru tribe, villages of the, i. 168. - - Wakalaganza tribe, the, i. 406. Dress of the, 406. - - Wakamba, the, a sub-tribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108. - - Wakarenga tribe, wretched villages of the, ii. 52. Their want of - energy and civilisation, 52, 74, 75. - - Wakatete tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. - - Wakimbu race, account of the, ii. 19. Villages of the, 19. Dress and - characteristic marks of the, 20. Arms of the, 20. Ornaments of the, - 20. Language of the, 20. - - Wakumbaku tribe, country of the, i. 88. - - Wak’hutu race, the, described, i. 97. The ivory touters of, 97. Their - territory, 119. Their physical and mental qualities, 120. Their dress, - 120. Their drunkenness, 120. Their food, 120. Their government, 121. - Their dwellings, 121. - - Wakwafi tribe, slavery among the, i. 309. Their untameable character, - 309. - - Wall point, i. 8. - - Wamasai tribe, slavery among the, i. 309. - - Wambele, Chomwi la Mtu Mku, or Headman Great Man of Precedence, - i. 156. - - Wambozwa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. Their government, 152. Their - personal appearance, 152. Their manners and customs, 152. - - Wamrima, or “people of the Mrima,” described, i. 16, 30, 32. Their - chomwi, or headmen, 16. Their dress, 33. Their women, 34. Their mode - of life, 35. Their national characteristics, 36. Their habits and - customs, 37. Their tombs, 57. Wamrima caravans, description of, 344. - Hospitality of the people, 353. - - Wanguru porters, desertion of the, i. 52. - - Wanyambo, the poor class of Karagwah, described, ii. 182. - - Wanyamwezi porters of the expedition, i. 143. Account of the - Wanyamwezi tribe, ii. 20. Colour of the skin of the, 20. Effluvium - from their skins, 20. Mode of dressing the hair, 20. Elongation of the - mammæ of the women, 21. Mark of the tribe, 21. Dress of the, 21. - Ornaments of the, 22. Arms of the, 22. Manners and customs of the, 23. - Ceremonies of childbirth, 23. Of marriage, 24. Funerals, 25. Houses of - the Wanyamwezi, 24. Iwanza, or public-house of the, 27. Food of the - people, 28. Their commercial industry, 29. Their language, 30. - Cultivation of the ground, 30, 31. Slavery amongst them, 31, 33. - Government of the people, 31. Notice of Sultan Fundikira, 31, 32. - Desertion of the porters, in Ugogo, 277. Their fear of the Wagogo, - 307. Greeting of porters of the, on the road, 291. - - Wanyika, halt of the party at the settlement of, i. 407. Blackmail at, - 407. - - Wanyora race described, ii. 197. - - Wap’hangara, the, a subtribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108. - - Wapoka, country of the, ii. 153. - - Warburg’s tincture, an invaluable medicine, ii. 169. - - Warori, their meeting with the caravan, ii. 251. The tribe described, - 272. Their raids, 272, 273. Their personal appearance, 273. Dress and - weapons, 273. Their food and habitations, 273. - - Warufiji, or people of the Rufiji river, i. 30. - - Warudi tribe, ii. 215, 219. - - Warugaru tribe, country of the, i. 88. Their language, 89. - - Warundi tribe, noise and insolence of the, ii. 107. Their - inhospitality, 108, 117. Their habitat, 144. Their mode of government, - 145. Their complexion, 145. Their personal appearance, 145. Their - dress, arms, and ornaments, 145. Their women, 146. - - Wasagara tribe, thievish propensities of the, i. 229. Villages of the, - 168. Those of Rumuma described, 198. Their ornaments and arms, 199. - Village of, on the summit of Rubeho, 218. Villages of, on the slopes, - 221. Their habitat, 234. Colour of their skins, 234. Modes of wearing - the hair, 234. Distension of the ear-lobe, 235. Distinctive marks of - the tribe, 235. Dress of the, 235. Arms of the, 237. Government of - the, 238. Houses of the, 366. - - Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, described, i. 30. National - characteristics of the, 36. Their habits and customs, 37. Caravans of, - 344. - - Wasenze tribe, their habitat, ii. 147. - - Washaki tribe, the, ii. 215, 219. - - Washenzi, or barbarians from the interior, i. 18. Curiosity of, 394. - - Washenzi, “the conquered,” or Ahl Maraim, the, i. 30. - - Wasps, mason, of the houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Wasui tribe, described, ii. 176. - - Wasukuma tribe, their thievery, i. 319. Punishment of some of them, - 320, 321. Their sultan, Msimbira, 319-321. - - Wasumbwa tribe, in Msene, i. 395. - - Wasuop’hángá tribe, country of the, i. 88. - - Watatura tribes, i. 304; ii. 215, 220. Their habitat, 220. Recent - history of them, 220, 221. - - Watches, a few second-hand, the best things for keeping time in East - African travel, i. 190. - - Water-courses, or nullahs, of East Africa, i. 102. In the Usagara - mountains, 229, 230. - - Water, in the Mrima, i. 102. In the Usagara mountains, 218. Scarcity - of, near Marenga Mk’hali, 203. Impatience and selfishness of thirst of - the Baloch guard, 205. In the Usagara mountains, 230. On the road to - Ugogo, 247. Permission required for drawing, 252. Scarcity of, at - Kanyenye, 265. Inhospitality of the people there, respecting, 267. - Scarcity of, in Mgunda Mk’hali, 282. At the Jiwe la Mkoa, 287. At - Kirurumo, 289. At Jiweni, 289. On the march of the caravan, 359. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 7. Of the Tanganyika Lake, its sweetness, 139. Want of, - on the return journey, 239. - - Water-melons at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. Cultivation of, 201. - - Wat’hembe tribe, the, ii. 154. - - Wat’hembwe tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. - - Wat’hongwe tribe, country of the, ii. 154. - - Wat’hongwe Kapana, Sultan, ii. 154. - - Watosi tribe in Msene, i. 396. Their present habitat, ii. 185. Account - of them and their manners and customs, 185. - - Watuta tribe, hills of the, i. 408. History of, ii. 75. Their present - habitat, 76. Their wanderings and forays, 76, 77. Their women, 77. - Their arms, 77. Their tactics, 77. Their fear of fire-arms, 77. Their - hospitality and strange traits, 77. Their attack on the territory of - Kannena, ii. 156. - - Wavinza tribe, i. 407. Personal appearance and character of the, - ii. 75. Arms of the, 75. Inhospitality of the, 75. Drunkenness of the, - 75. - - Wavira tribe, civility of the, ii. 115. - - Wayfanya, return to, ii. 123. A slave mortally wounded at, 124. - - Wazaramo tribe, the, i. 19. - - Wazaramo, or Wazalamo, territory of the, i. 54. Visit from the P’hazi, - or headmen, i. 54. Women’s dance of ceremony, 55. Tombs of the tribe, - 57. Stoppage of the guard of the expedition by the Wazaramo, 70. - Ethnology of the race, 107. Their dialect, 107. Subtribes of, 108. - Distinctive marks of the tribe, 108. Albinos of the, 109. Dress of - the, 109. Ornaments and arms of the, 110. Houses of the, 110. - Character of the, 112. Their government, 113. The Sare, or brother - oath, of the, 114. Births and deaths, 118. Funeral ceremonies, 118, - 119. “Industry” of the tribe, 119. - - Wazegura tribe, i. 124. Their habitat, 125. Their arms, 125. Their - kidnapping practices, 125. Their government, 125. Their character, - 126. - - Wazige tribe described, ii. 146. - - Waziraha, a subtribe of the Wak’hutu, i. 122. Described, 123. - - Weights and measures in Zanzibar, ii. 389, 391. - - Weapons in East Africa, ii. 300. - - Weaving in East Africa, ii. 309. - - White land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261. - - Whirlwinds in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13. - - Wife of Sultan Magomba, i. 266. - - Wigo hill, i. 93, 159. - - Wilyankuru, Eastern, passed through, i. 390. - - Winds in Unyamwezi, ii. 9, 10. In Central Africa, 50. Periodical of - Lake Tanganyika, 143. In Karagwah, ii. 180. - - Windy Pass, or Pass of Rubeho, painful ascent of, i. 213. Village of - Wasagara at, 218. - - Wine, plantain, of Karagwah, ii. 180. And of Uganda, 197. - - Wire, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. As an article of - commerce, 146, 150. - - Witch, or mganga, of East Africa, i. 380. - - Witchcraft, belief in, in East Africa, ii. 347. Office of the mganga, - 356. - - Women in East Africa, ii. 298, 330, 332, 334. - - ---- of Karagwah, ii. 182. - - ---- of the Wabuha, ii. 78. - - ---- ---- Wagogo, i. 304, 305, 310. - - ---- ---- Wahehe, i. 239. - - ---- ---- Wajiji, ii. 62-64. - - ---- ---- Wak’hutu, i. 120. - - ---- ---- Wamrima, i. 16, 34. - - ---- ---- Wanyamwezi, i. 388, 396, 398; ii. 21, 23, 24. - - ---- ---- Warundi, ii. 146. - - ---- ---- Wasagara, i. 234, 236. - - ---- ---- Wataturu, ii. 221. - - ---- ---- Watuta, ii. 77. - - ---- ---- Wazaramo, i. 55, 61, 63, 110, 116, 118. - - ---- “Lulliloo” of the Wanyamwezi, i. 291. - - ---- physicians in East Africa, ii. 323. - - ---- Dance by themselves in East Africa, i. 361. - - ---- Handsome, at Yombo, i. 388. - - ---- Slave-girls of the coast Arabs on the march up country, i. 314. - - ---- The Iwanza, or public-houses of the women of Unyamwezi, ii. 27. - - ---- Of the Wabwari islanders, ii. 113. - - Wood-apples in Unyamwezi, i. 318. - - Woodward, Mr. S. P., his description of shells brought from Tanganyika - Lake, ii. 102, _note_. - - - Xylophagus, the, in East African houses, i. 370. - - - Yegea mud, i. 83. - - Yombo, halt of the party at, i. 387. Description of, 387. The sunset - hour at, 387. Return to, ii. 166. - - Yovu, river, ii. 257, 258. Forded, 258. - - Yovu, village of, described, i. 396. - - - Zanzibar, view of, from the sea, i. 1. What the island is not, 2. - Family, 2, 3. History of the word “Zanzibar,” 28. Its geographical - position, 29. Weakness of the government of, in the interior of the - continent, 98. The eight seasons of, ii. 8. Slave-trade of, 377. - Troubles in, 380. General trade of, Appendix to vol. ii. - - Zawada, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. Her services to Capt. - Speke, ii. 277. - - Zebras, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. At Ziwa, 251. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. - - Zemzemiyah of East Africa, ii. 239. - - Zeze, or guitar, of East Africa, ii. 291. - - Zik el nafas, or asthma, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Zimbili, halt of the caravan at, i. 386. Description of, 386. - - Ziwa, or the Pond, i. 244. Water obtained from the, 250. Description - of the, 251. Troubles of the expedition at, 254. - - Zohnwe river, i. 172. - - Zohnwe settlement, i. 173. Adventures of the expedition at, 173. - - Zungomero, district of, described, i. 93. Commerce of, 95. Attractions - of, 95. Food of, 95-97. Cause of the ivory touters of, 97. Halt of the - expedition at, i. 127. Pestilence of, 127, 163. Fresh porters engaged - at, 128. Life at, 156. Return to, ii. 264. Departure from, 276. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - - Spelling variants, inconsistent, archaic and unusual spelling, - hyphenation, capitalisation, use of accents, etc., also in proper and - geographical names and in non-English words, have been retained, - except as listed below. The names of peoples, tribes, other groups and - localities in particular occur in different variants. Factual and - textual errors, inconcistencies and contradictions have not been - corrected or standardised. - - Depending on the hard- and software used to read this text, not all - elements may display as intended. - - Index: the deviations from the alphabetical order of the main entries - have not been corrected. - - Page viii, ix and others: the map and Appendices may be found in Vol. - 2. - - Page xii ff., tables: The totals given do not always correspond to the - data given; this has not been corrected. - - - Changes made: - - Footnotes and illustrations have been moved outside text paragraphs. - - Some obvious minor punctuation and printing errors have been corrected - silently. - - In several tables and lists ditto characters („) have been replaced - with the dittoed text. - - Page xvii: Entry Illustration “A village in K’hutu. The Silk Cotton - Tree” added. - - In the Index, some spelling and page numbering errors have been - corrected silently in order to conform to the text. - - Index: The Index was not included in the original Volume I, but has - been copied from Volume II for the sake of convenience and - completeness. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL -AFRICA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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